v.^ .'*:9^-- m >m vt,^ :^\ \ ^J^' ^J.Aj:' ■^ tr "' LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE en This book may be kept out TWO WEEKS only, and is fubject to a fine of TWO CENTS a day thereafter. It will be due on the day indicated below. 2 6 1930 ■^J^ ILLUSTRATED PERIODICAL DEVOTED TO Horticulture in all its Branches. CONDUCTED BY Elias A. Long, Author of "Ornamental Gardening for Americans" "The Home Florist" Etc., Etc. Whiat woqdrous life is this I lead! Ripe Apples drop about my l^ead; Ttie luscious clusters of the Vif^e Upon rir\y mouth do crusf\ their wirje. The Nectaririe, thie tootlisome Peachi, Into my harids themselves do reach. Stunribling on Meloqs, as I pass, Erjsriared on flowers, I fall ox\ grass. — Marnell. Vo 1 \x m e 3, 1887 = 88. BUFFALO, N, Y.: Popular Gardening Publishing Co. v—^ O ^' y A ■^ INDEX ^ TO Volume III of Popular Gardening. A AbuUloD, A new 268 Abutilon, Pendulous. 78 Abutilons/or Winter 9 Acacia Culture. . .156, 192 Acacia Rose for Walls 301 Actinidia, Climber 254 A Fine Rose fr'arden-SSS Agents, Tree 226 Agapanthus, Culture. 274 Agriculture, N.Y. S...115 Ailanthus— Rose-bugs249 Akebia quinata 178 Alfalfa 202 Allium Neapolitan ... 105 All Around Notes .... 360 Almond, Soft shell... 329 Alternanthera Worm . 264 Amaryllis Increasing. 354 Amaryllis Culture... 51 Amateur Observer... 33 Amateur Work, Step- ping higher .... 158 Amazon Lil.y Culture. 366 American Poniologi- cal Society Meeting. 12 Anemones, Japan — 3 Annuals for Ribbons. 253 Ants, Cremation for. . 100 Ants and Aphis 10 Aphis on Cherries and Plums 2 6 Apple and Orange Culture 81 Apple Orchard, Care. 92 Apple Growing Over- done 97 Apple Pie.Uncovered.154 Apple Market, Eng. . . 350 Apple Trees, Prun..26, 29 Apple Worm. The... 36 Apple Orcb'd 80 acres 55 Apple Preserving 43 Apple Marmalade. . 58 Apple Pudding 178 Apple drjring in West- ern New \ ork 161 Apple Blight 164 Apple Trees Manur'g 270 Apple Borer, Round- Waded 207 Apple Culture 207 Apple Tree of FutttreSBO Apple, The Qano 70 Apple, Winter St. Lawrence 77 Apple, Coddle 82 Apple, Wormy .... 108, 85 Apple, Best Winter. . . 80 Apple, Root Lice on . . 103 Apple, North'n Spy.. 346 Apple. St. Tjaiorence. 55 Apple, The Wealthy. . 1 Apple, Ben Davis. 189, 106 Apples from Seed — 81 Apples and Rice 154 Apples for the South. 61 Apples Evaporated. .. 48 Apples for Ohio 304 Apples, Russian, Fail- ure of 185 Apples, Falling Pre- maturely 157 Apples, Sweet Pickle. 38 Apples, Identifying... 35 Apples, Russian.. 34, 135, 174, 189 Apples, Sweating. ... 57 Apples, Picking 46 Apples, Premature falling 181 Apples, Dwarf 178 Apricot, The Siberian 374 Aralia,The Japanese .117 ArborDay 137 Arbor Vitae Hedge 1.35, 85 Arbor Vine 209 Arbutus Planting 236 Artemesias, in China. 268 Artich'^'kes, About 264 Amndo Donax 2 Asparagus Culture ... 16 Asparagus Tenuis 180 Asparagus Beetle ... 178 Asparagus Buncher . .\^ Asparagus forcing , . ,81, 156, 161. Asparagus, Manure.. 209 Asparagus Bed, Hasp- berry Roots in 212 Asparagus, Knife ...213 Asparagus Cutting.. .123 Asbaragus, Easy to Grow 153 Ashes for Trees 189 Ashes for Fruit Trees.304 Ashes for Onions 253 AsheSj Applying 85 Associations in Fac- tory Towns 78 .4s(er, The Triumph.. 64 Azalea leaves dropp'g 61 Bagging Grapes.. 189, 193, 330 Balloon. French Fi..l95 Bananas in open Air. . 63 Barberry Hedges 137 Barberry or Berberry. 331 Barberries from Seed 377 Barry's Address, P. . .130 Bark, Scraping Tree. . 1.53 Bark, Loose 188 Bark Lice... 52, 156,181 Basket Plant,Choice .112 Bean Weevil, The. . . 245 Bean Soup 132 Beauty, Little Money. 128 Beeches for Omavien- tal Planting^ 163 \ Bees and Fruit 128 Beet Pudding 374 Begonias, Prop'lng. . . 108 Begonias, Classes and Culture 74 Begonias, Rex 16 Begonias, Prop'lng. .135 Begonias, Tuberous, Culture 41 Begonias for WindowSO, 53 Begonia Ailing 171 Begonia, A Hardy 164 Bedding Designs. . . .171 Berry Crate, Cheap.. 158 Berries South, Grow. .123 Berry Picking, Clean. 34 Bench Support, Iron.250 Bird Notes 238 Black Knot, Remedy 272 Black Knot, Dealing with 274 Blackberry, Thornless273 Blackberry, Early Harvest 78 Blackberry from Seed 15 Blackb'ry Culture 120,174 Blackberry. The 231 Blackberry, The Min- newaski 213 Blackberry Prop'. ... 229 Blackberry Propag"t'n343 Blackberries in North 48 Blackberries in Card . 132 Blackberries, Coveri'g 80 Bleaching Fruits 166 Blight, Twig 09 Blooms, Measuring. .. 75 Blood Fertilizer 254 Blueberry, Improving the Native 225 Bone for Trees 7 Bones. Dissolving 85 Borer, Ashes for 155 BorersAWoodpeckersl50 Botanists, Statesmen. 88 Bovardia Culture . . . 109 Broccoli, Culture of. . 68 Brussels Sprouts 148 Budding, June 163 Budding,Grafting etc 370 Bugging as a Business350 Bulb Propagation 36 Bulb Gardens of Hol- land, The 35 Bulb, Cape, Culture41, 60 Bulbs, Weight in 268 Beans, Caring for.... 275 Bulbs, Hardy 374 Bulbs, Liquid Manure tor 76 Bulbs, Choice Spring- flowering 135 Bulbs, Forcing Early. 61 Bulbs, Caring for, etc. 41, 47 Bulbs, Distance /or.. 368 Bulbous Plants in Grass 267 Cabbage Worm Pois'n253 Cabbage Salad 100 Cabbage Worm Wor- sted 274 Cabbage, A new 273 Cabbage Worms, Lon- don Purple 270 Cabbage Pl'ts, Cover. 110 Cabbage Storing. ,43, 136 Cabbage Slaw 133 Cabbage Culture. ...163 Cabbage Growing 168 Cabbage Disease... .259 Cabbage Butterfly... 207 Cabbage Pickled... . 38 Cabbage Worms. 202, 220, 252 Cabbage, Early, for Market 113 Cabbage Burying 58 Cabbages, Tying up. .185 Cactus Propagation. .197 Cactus Hedge, A. . 268 Cactuses, to Graft, etc2lS Caladium Culture 197 Caladiums, Fancy- leaved 194 Calandrina Occid'lis. .244 Calatheas, The 99 California Hort 100 Calla Culture 242 California Fruit 32 Camellia Ailing 254 Camellia Managem't.l25 Canadian Pinks 268 Cannas as Flowering Plants 124 Canning Factories. 27,201 Carrots, Wire Worms. 18 Carnation for Bloom. 113 Catalogues Received. 114 Catalpa, Hardy, for Timber 18 Catalpas for Timber.. 40 Caterpillars Burning Tent 259 Cats and Gardens . . . 228 Cauliflower 58 Cauliflower, Market. . 190 Cauliflower Shading . . 270 Caulifl'w'rs not He'd'g 9 Cedar from Seed 41 Celery Salad 178 Celery Seed Raising . . 174 Celery in Sawdust 204 Celery Culture 198 Celery Show in Eng . . 34 Celery 57 Celery Culture, Kala- mazoo, MichiganSO, 185 Celery and other cropsl28 Celery versus Corn ... 128 Celery Blight 277 Celery in Beds 106 Celery, Golden DlvarfV2ij Celery, To Winter .... 100 Celery, Success with. 167 Celery, Notes on 184 Celery, Blanching 01, 108, 185, 196 Celery, Storage 42 Cemeteries, Garden.. 197 Cemetery Lots, Horti- culture for.. ... 56 Changing beari'gyear317 i 'harcoal as Manure . . 202 Cherry Crop, A 214 Cherry, The 2;J2 Cherry.Loose Bark on210 Cherry, The Windsor.Hoa Cherry Sprouts 276 Cherries, Bigarreau..206 Cherries, New Var 25 Cherries for Market.. 276 Chestnut, Hardy 274 Chestnuts for 111 277 Chestnuts for 111 153 Chicory or Succory ... 53 China Tree 180 Chrysanth'm cult'e35,234 Chrysanthemum cul- tivation 200 Chrysanthemum leaves Falling 41, 61 Chrysanthemum Show, Indiana 64 Chrysanthemum Fly. 254 Chrysanthemum Cut- tings 106 Chrysanthemum, New Type 170 Ch ry santhemums, Liquids for 177 Chrysanthemums 33 Chrysanthemums af- ter Bloom 61,09 Chrysanth'ms, Early. 64 Chrysanthemums for Show 220 Chrysanthem'ms, The Earlier . 3 Chrysanthemums, Shooting Up 18 Chrys'th'ms Boston.. 146 Christmas Rose, The 65 Cider Making 270 Clematis in Grapery. 168 Clematis Propagating241 Clematis, Propa^'ting 18 Clematis Propagating 267, 276 Clematises Dying off . . 172 Climbers on Division Mark 209 Coal Tar for Peach. . . 109 Cold Storage for Fruit 109 Cold Pit, Construct 'g. 250 Coitus, Why Winter.. 11 Compost Heap, The . . 32 Conservatory 157 Corn, Early and Late Together 2.36 Corn, Sweet, Smut on.277 Corn, Smut or Sweet 276 Cosmos, No Poor Fl . . 54 Cottonwood tor Shade274 Cover, Snow as .. . .. 136 Covering with Turf.. 76 Covering in Winter.. 53 Crab for Stock, Siber- ian. 130 Crab, Siber. for StocklOO Crabs for Stock 1.57 Cranberry CultureI35,234 Cranberry, To Cook . . 82 Cranberry Sauce 58 Cranberry Crop, The . 23 Crop, Retarding the.. 210 Crop, Extending 1 88 Crowding in Nov 32 Crowding Land 188 Cucumber Forcing. . . 88 Cucumber Fried . . . 274 Cucumber Seed, Why is Old the Best. ...239 Culture under Glass . . 1 Culture and Drought. 128 Culture, Thorough... 78 Cultivation, Deep 10 Cultivation, Valuable Points on 1 Curculio on oth'r fruits 1 Curculio Poisoning. ..376 Curculio, The 26 Currant Cultivation . . 60 Currant Worms 188 Currant worm remedy 188 Currant Propagating. 4 Currant Culture for Market 71 Currant, Cultivating. . 37 Currants Dropping. . 276 Currants and Goose- berries 277 Currants, Gooseberry Propagating 276 Currants, Black 276 Currants Losing their Leaves 18 Currants not Fruiting.353 Currant, Crandall 93 Currants, Putting up. 239 Currants, Prop'g ...31,41 Cut Worms, Destroy. 305 Cut Flowers in Water, Keeping 335 Cyclamen Treatment 267 Cyclamen Culture 85 Cyclamen Treatment 135, 254 Cyclamen, Grubs in. 85 Cyclamen, Grubs in.. 61 Cydonia Japonica — 159 Cypripedium Insigne. 41 Cytlsus racemosus Culture 114 D Daffodil with Crested corona 243 Dahlias, Single, .\bout 44 Daisies, French, froui Seed 156 Daises, Treatment of 370 Dandelion Meadow . . . 253 Dandelion Meadow. . .305 Datura Propagation . . 376 Delaware, iNoc Fruit'g377 Draining around Pot Holes 153 Deterioration in Var- ieties 142 Dewberry, About 150 Dewberry, Lucretia.. 46 Dog Nuisance 181, 207 D'DIe Flowers, About. 137 Drainage for Fruit 36 Draining and Drouth'i^i'Z Drought, Culture in.. 189 Drouth and Drainage'Sii E Effect, Enhancing the 10 Electric Light, and Plants 106 Electricity and WeedslOO Elms from Seed 148 English Planting. ... 52 Eucharis Culture 266 Euphorbia Culture.. 61 Evaporating Apples . . 6 Evaporating Fruit . . 39 Everbearing Strawb'y 41 Evaporating Fruit 178 Evaporating, Fruit for349 Evaporating Business in Niagara Co.,N.Y.\92 Evaporating, Steam 192 Evaporator, A Home- made 201 Evergreens, Transpl . . 23 Evergreens, Care of . 274 Evergreens, Pruning. 86 Evergreens, Soot on.. 228 Evergreen Seedlings Failing 253 Expediting Bloom 320 Exper. Farm, State. . .338 Experiment Grounds, Niagara 197 Experiment Grounds, Our New 186 Experiment Grounds, Popular GARnKNiNGl61 Experimental Straw- berry Bed 259 F" Fall Planting 275 Fasciation—Petunia.Sm Fatsia Japonica 117 Fence Covered with Creeper 209 Fence Nail, Double Pointed 148 Fence Ornamental Board 259 Fern in House 78 Fern Garden, The ...173 Fertilizers C o m m e r- cial 2-32 FertiPrs, Sanborn on. ..184 Fertilizers, Nitrate of Potash 167 Fertilizers, Test of... 73 Fertility in Gardening 96 Feverfew, Double. 19, 84 Ficus, Variegated — 100 Fig Pudding 133 Fig Culture North 61 Fig Culture in Pots.... 15 Filbert Culture. .339, 313 Filter, Does not use .. 3 2 Fitting Bones for Fer- tilizers 225 Floral Happenings in N. Y 369 Flower Garden, Lawn and, 10, 38, 58, 82, 107, 1.33, 1,54, 179, -303, 226, 360, 274. Flower Hood, French2U Flower Fertilization. '335 Flower Farming .... 76 Flower Gard'g Points 75 Fl'wer Show,Mauit'ba 34 Flw'r Pots, Egg ShelllOO Flowers^ Notes on . . . 356 Flowers, Manure forl56 Fl'rs Improvement inl56 Flowers, Manure for. 181 Flowers and Consump- tion 368 Flowers & L'c'm'tives 77 Floivers, Insects 98 FPrs for Beginners. . . 103 Flowers, Their Utility. 34 Flowers, How to Keep 37 Flowers Reported on 47 Flowers, Remarks on 54 Flowers in Alaska . . 54 Flowers in Winter 19 Flowers of Polar Zones '367 Florists' Business 14 Floral Cow 53 Floral Notes, New York, 11, 33, 61. 77, 101, 137. 149, 173,197,231,244,309. Flue, To Build a Brick 88 Flue, to Build a 109 Flues for Heating — 57 Flues, Cleaning 213 Flues, Building Brickli7 Forcing Pit 43 Forcing Rhubarb... 216 Forestry Gleams 198 Forestry Points 222 Forest Grove, The 132 Fractional Currency. 65 Frame, Span-Roofed 20 Freesias, Culture of.. 205 Freesia Culture 254 Forest Trees from Seed 273 Frost Rack, A 268 Fruit Garden and Or- chard. 17, 39, 59, 83, 107, 133, 154, 179, 203, 22/, 251, 275. Fruit Industry, The.. 14 Fruit Trees, Root Pruning ... 60 Fruit Sulphuring 26:1 Fruit Farm, Managing 19 Fruit Preservation . . 1 Fruit Bl'ch'ng, Ag 'nst 47 Fruit Notes, Ohio.... 47 Fruit CultureAttract's 46 Fruit Farm, A Fine . . 42 Fruit House 24 Fruit and Leaf Fall, . . 31 Fruit Trees for Shade 38 Fruit Notes. 29 Fruit Evap. Bleach ... 94 Fruit Cult, in Mass. . .104 Fruit and Vegetable Diet 102 Fruit Hints 97 Fruit, Ice Houses for 70 Fruit Jars, The 82 Fruit Thinning 196 Fruit Tree, Ashes.... 189 Fruit, Proflt in 169 Fruit Juices 202 Fruit for the People. .202 Fruit Culture.Give At- tention 191 Fruit Farm Success.. 190 Fruit ; Not Over Pro- duction to 1 90 Fruit Growing, Mich . 143 Fruit Cult.— Mortgagel57 Fruit and Tariff 139 Fruit Growing in Pa .. 166 Fruit, Wasps, Bees.. 150 Fruit Comments 141 Fruit .Cake 133 Fruit Selling 1.30 Fruit at the Fairs ... 130 Fruit Growing Experi- ence 129 Fruit, Wasps and Beesl35 Fru't, Jap. Sovth 115 Fruit for Small Plat. . 136 Fruit Farm, Munson's314 Fr. Crop, Condition of 331 Fruit Packages, New. 3-36 Fruit in Delaware ... 237 Fruit and Fowls 251 Fruit Rind Indigest'bl.349 Fruit in America 346 Fruit Clover Land... 311 Fruit Crop Report... 211 Fruits, Fertility for. . 317 Fruits Progress )i09 Fruits, Recent Nexv..l41 Fruits, Small, CulturelSl Fruits, Medicinal Qua- lities of 16 P>uits, Newer Variets. 25 I'ruits, Wild 79 Fruits Deteriorating . . 70 Fruits on Poor Soil.iss Fruits, Testing New . 185 Fruits Tlireatend 183 Fruits. Small 215 Fruits tor Fair 2'20 Fruits and Fevers ...249 Fruits, New— Fail'g. .246 Fuchsia, The 26S Fuchsias, Culture of. 8'i Fuchsias in Pot 276 Fuchsias in Pots. 2-39,241 Fuchsias, Winter BI'm 10 Fuchsias, Culture of . . 20 Fumigator, A Good.. 105 Fumigating, A Box.. 243 Fungus Diseases, Treat- ment for 230 O Garden, The Complete 8. 38, 63. 87, 111, 159, 183, 307, 231, 355, 378. Garden Neatness W't'r 32 Garden, Kitchen, Sug. gestions 3.59 Garden Baskets, Two 149 Garden, Girls in the.. 197 Garden, Saving Time. 221 I 3Sr ID EX. Garden. A Roof 76 Gardening, Market... 60 Gardening, Home 55 Gardening, Extremes W) Gard. Pov'y Stricken 5T Gardening, Open Air 37 Gardening for Profit. V28 Oardening, A Study. lOi Galtunia Candicans . 101 (Geraniums 101 Geranium, Mad. Sol- lerol 189; Geranium Tricolor, Propagation 'i74 Geraniums,Unhealthy2.'>2 Ger'ni'mB, Best Silver- edge 1'3 \ Ger'ms Unhealthy.. 852 Geraniums. Unhealth.156 Gladiolus Query 180 Gladiolus Failing. ... 61 Glass Area, The ..1T4 Glass H'se Unheated 58 Glass, Fruit and Veget- ables under, 17, 39. 59. Si, 107, 133, 155, 179, 203, 227, 151,275. Glazier Points 11 Glazing Dble. Against 4ii Glazing, Xew MethodVii Glazing iciVi Double- pointed Tacks 32 Goat s Beard, The .. . 242 Gooseberry in Maine. 109 Gooseberries 169 Gooseb'r's Mildewing 253 Gooseberry, Mildew.. 229 Gooseberries, Can'g..229 Gooseberries, Market. 276 Gooseberries, Green and Otherwise 238 Gooseberries. Curr'nts 9 Grafts, care of 220 Graft on Whole Roots or Not? 6 Grafters, Travelling.. 89 Grafting Wax 1.37 Grafting small Grape- vines 118 Grafting, Losses froml27 Grafting Cactus 218 Grafting 162 Grafting Several kinds on One 181 Grafting by Inarch. . .240 Grafting Many on — 204 '•r ftg, A Good Meth'd 2 Grape Juice, Preserv 157 Grape Grow. Overdn'e. 122 Grape Beetle 135 Grape Seed. Keeping. 9 Grape Fertilization... 20 Grape Train'g.Kniffen 69 Grape Wires, Tighten- ing 94 Grape Vines, Protect .94 Grape Grafting, Suc- cessful 90 Grape Question 108 Grape Culture, Lake Erie 102 Grape Seed, Keeping 41 Grape Culture, For. . . 41 Grape Yield 23 Grape Grafting, New Style 37 Grape Jelly 28 Grape Juice Unfer'd.253 Grape Trellis, lible. . .249 GrapeVines-Cuttings.213 Orape,I,ady Washing- ton l.'^l (irape Bags, improv. .19H Grape-vine, Salt. . .. 195 Grape Rot, Lime 196 Grape Grafting 193 Grape Propagation. . . 60 Grape Vines, Double buds 41 GrapeGrowingfor the People 104 Grape-grotc^g in Wes- tern New- York. .211 Grape-vine Traitiing. \fj5 Grape-vine Training Improved 140 Grape-vine Grafting.. 11.^ Grape, North'n Light. :is Grape, PockIinglon...l26 Grape, A New 123 Grape, Diamond 43 Grape, The Jewel 49 Grape, Grafting 173 (irape Rot 262 Grape Record of 1887 263 Grape Culture 00,388 Grape, The Clinton... 70 Grapes, Insects on. ..277 drapes. Bags for 277 Grapes and Grafting Wax 276 Grapes, Packing in Europe 202 Grapes for Profit 157 Grapes in Illinois. 14 Grapes in December 4,8 Grapes in Florida ... 60 Grapes, Bagging. 181. 303 Grapes, Pruning 174 Grapes. Newer Var. ..25 Grapes, Propagat'g 31,41 Grapes. Notes on 26 Grapes, Thing Out.. 217 Grapes, Prepar'g Soil 214 Grapes, Burying 222 Grapes, North 222 Grapes, best keeping 343-253 Grapes as Food 248 Grapes, Winter Sorts 70 Grapes, Manuring — 102 Grapes, Spg. Pruningl05 Grapes, Lime for. 109, 119 Grapes, Bagging 202 Grapes, Hen Manure. 206 Grapes, Wire for 205 Grapes, The best 202 Grapes, Wh. Market.. 189 Grapes, Wordon and Concord 141 Grapes, Cost of Culti- vating 150 Grapes, Overproduc- tion of 109 Grapes for Market. .185, 346. Grapes, Hen manure for ....1,56, 181. 206, 2.53 Grapes, Certain Varie- ties 135 Grapery Pr'ni'g Cold 7 Gray, Dr. Asa 116 Greenhouse S(renj;/i.'d249 CJreenhouse in Small Town 61 Greenhouse, Grapes in 96 Greenhouse, .Spring. 219 Greenhouse, Northern Exposed 40 Greenhouse, Exposed CO Grub, White, Trap.. 1S9 Grubs in Str'wb'yLa'd 19 Guano Query 181 H Hail, Protection aga'tl37 Handsome Foliage. ..230 Hanging BasKets, Home Made.... 127, 147 Heater Evaporating .19^i Heating with Natural Gas 181 Hedge System for Hardy Roses 13 Hedge in Shade ... 29, 61 Hedge Arbor Vltael35.109 Hedge, A Rose 126 Hedges, The Barberryl27 Hedges, Shrub 8 Hedges, Evergreen S Hedges Deciduous... 8 Heliotrope Manag'. ..245 Hellebore, Applying . . 196 Helleborus Niger ... 65 Henderson and Co.'s Establishment 33 Hen Dung for Garden229 Hen Manure, Grapesl56 Herb Culture 201 Hibiscus, Keeping Dwarfed 1.35 Hibiscus Buds Drop.. 130 Hibiscus, Dwarfed ... 109 Highway Improving 280 Highways, Shade Trees for 2.59 Hints for August. ...241 Hollyhock, Crimson.. 90 Hollyhocks Changing Color 277 Home Grounds Beauti- fying ' 152 Honey from Apple Blossoms 136 Honeysuckle, The 235 Honeysuckle Worm.. 370 Honeysuckle Screen.. 162 Hop, Japanese, The. .175 Horse Radish Market. 157 Horticulture in Can.. 35 Horticulture in Ohio .35 Horticulture in Wis. 370 Horticulture, Bible... 102 Horticulture at the State Fair 13 Hort. Women and — 78 Horticulture and Tem- perance 131 Horticultural Picnic. 54 i Hose, A Non-kinking 244 Hot-Bed, A Fire. .. 136 Hot-Beds Fumig^ting\!j9 Hot-bed, La'iip heat'dl08 Hot-bed, Fine 100 Hotbeds, Muslin for.. 277 ! Hotbeds in Winter.. .81 I Hotbed inOctober. 29, 60 Hot-beds, Muslin for 207, I 254 I Hot-beds, Moveable Screen for 114 Hot-beds, Cloth Sash. 108 Hot-water Heating... 109 House Plants, 16, .38, 58. N2, 106. 132, 154, 178, 202, 236, 250, 374. HouFe-top Oardening 217 House, Beautifying .. 232 Hovey Chas. M 10 Huckleberries, Home Grown 177 Hyacinths, Single 15 Hyacinth, Tlie Roman :il Hyucinth, Roman, Growing 269 Hyacinths in Wash.T.148 Hyacinthus Cand 101 Hyacinthus American 76 Hyacinthus Candic'nsl26 Hydrargas, Blue.. .245 Hydrangas, Climbing 12 Hybridizing and Cros- sing 103 Hydrangea Prop'g ... 1.57 Hydrangeas Manag.. 135, Hydrangeas Market. .277 150 I Improved Flowers ... 233 Improv't Association. 245 India Rubber T"ar'('d231 Indiana. Fruits in.... 128 Insect Enemies 98 Insect Friends 326 Insect Power Plants . . 148 Insect Nests 202 Insect Notes 262 Insects and Develop't 1.36 Insects on Plants ...172 Insects, Spiders etc . . 196 Insects Nicotyl to kill 64 Insects, Know the — 78 Insects, Acquaintance240 Insecticides, Using ... 176 Ipomea or Moon Flo'r 1 Ipomeas: Moon Flo'r 67 Irrigation in Gardens 175 Irrigation 188 Irrigation Sub 128 J Japan Quince. 159 Jer'sal'm Cherry, The298 Johnsonii Amary His . . 230 Juniper, Iri.th 183 K Kale, How to Grow. .373 KeifTer or Keffer 54 Kniffen Training Sys- tem 09 KniCFen System and laying Down 156 Labels and Labeling . 87 Labels, Ink for 229 Land Productive. 115, 220 Land, Enrich Quicklyllo Land. Enriching 1 Landscape, A Parlor 32 Landscape Gardening Points 80 Landscape Gardening and Politics 150 Lapageria from cut.. 75 Lapageria Rosea Pro- pagation 61. 51 Lavender, Sweet 109 Lawn, A quick 105 Lawn and Flower Garden 16, 38. 58, 82, 107. 132, 155, 179, 302, 226, 250. Lawn on Weedy Landl80 Lawn, Footprints on after Snow 120 Lawn, Ants in 277 Lawn, Yarrow in. .. . 31 Leaves and the Fruit. 220 Lessons from Drought 54 Lettuce in Green 110 Lettuce Culture 177 Lettuce Culture un- der Glass 247 Lettuce in Pots. 43 Lettuce on Ridges — 33 Lice, Root, in Cal 106 Lice, Root, on Apple. 103 Lilacs, Some Good.'. .. 98 Lily of Valley, Fore. .1.50, 181 Lily Chinese, Treat. . . 183 Lily Culture 248 Lily, Harris 41 Lily, The Cuba 61 Lilies, Native, Culti- vating 173 Lilies, A Talk about. .170 Lilies, Native 244 Lilies, Failure with40, 91 Lilium Candidum,... 53 Liliums from Seeds.. 228 Lime for Grapes 109 Lime, Use of 37 Linum trigynum — 146 Liquid Amber Ill Locust Trees West. . .223 Locusts Sprouting. . . .276 Looking Ahead 150 Lupine, New Dwarf. 52 Lychnis, A Beautiful 31 91 Maggot. A Destructive 13 Magnolia. Prop.. 329, 354 Mailing Flowers, etc. 100 Malvaviscus, Tree-like 75 Manure Heat. Hoicte. 91 Manure, Artificial and Natural 30 Manure, Sawdust . . 205 Manure, Hen, Comp. . 188 Manure, A Cheap .. .174 Manure, Purifying. ..131 Manure, Liquid 60 Manure, Managing. . .177 Manure, Liquid 169 Manure, Loss from Leaching 168 Manure, Composition and use 3.39 Manure, Green, 85, 332, 258 Manures, Composition and Use 191 Manure, Preventing Fire-fang 131 Manure, When to Ap- ply 222 Manuring, Fall 13, 4S Manuring, Tillage 215 Manuring, Summer.. 241 Maple, Propagating.. 204 Maples, Two Interest.'.'M Marguerite Culture. .254 Market Gardening256, 271 Market, A Flower ... 243 Market, Covent Gard. 102 Market, Dist. From... 49 Marketing Fruit 163 Marking the Spot ... 172 Marl, The use of 239 Marot, Charles H 101 Marvel of Peru 18 Marvel of Peru, Cult. 149 Mealy Bug,Destroying 78 Mea.^'uring ImpVt. . . 216 Melia .Vzedarach. . ..180 Melon. Musk, for fore. 147 Melon Tips Pinching. .226 Melons Dying 277 Melons in Winter :i8 Melons for Forcing. . .136 Melons, Early 137 Melons, Sowing 330 Mice, Poisoning 173 Michigan Flowers... 218 Middlemen, The 138 Mina Lobata Culture. 93 Minnesota, Hort. in.. 1.50 Missouri Fruit Show. .270 Moles in Orchard 60 Moneyvine Mound . . . .209 Montbretia Pottsi. ... 109 Montbretias 218 Moon Flower, The ..1, 19 Moon Influence 3.35 Moon Vine or Evening Glory. 40 Moon Flow er vs. Bona Nox. 77 Moore, John B 10 Mortgages and Fruit Culture 135 Moss on Trees 169 Muck as a Fertilizer . 345 Mulberry, Doioning's.U^T Mulberry Propaga'n . .253 Mulberry Propagat'n.37(J Mulberry, The 277 Mulberry, Russian 60 Mulberries, Russian.. 274 Mulching Fall Plants. 26 Mulching Trees 182 Mulching with Leaves 73 Mulching, Summer... 210 Mushroom Pie 350 Mushroom Culture . . 254 Mushroom Pests .. .61 , 81 Mushroom Growing 304 Mushrooms, Sawdust Manure for 40 Mushrooms, Nutritionl73 Mushrooms, Manure. 100 Myrtle for Winter .... ICO Myrobalan Plum for Hedges 187 N Names, Meddling with .53 Narcissus 10 Narcissus for water Culture 370 Nasturtiums, Double, Propagating 119 Nebraska Fruit Notes 5 Nelumbium luteuni31,101 Newer Kinds of Apples 6 Niagara Co N.Y.Notes314 Nicotyl as Insect De- stroyer 98 Nicotiana affinis 219 Night Soil and Sewer- age 229 Nitrate of Ammonia .. 1 1 3 Nitrate of Soda. 117, 339 Notes on Feb. Issue,64,140 Novelties. Test of ....136 Nursery Garden 115 Nursery Freights Re- duced 65 Nuisery men's Asso..ll3 Nut Trees 94 Nut Trees, Increase.. 109 Nut Family, The 16;) Nuts without plant'g 137 Nurseries, French 246 O Olea Fragrans 204 Onion Plant'g. Fall 61, 62 Onion Crop, The 33 Onion Crop Forcing. .'246 Onion Culture 139 Onion Maggot 276 Onions Pickled 274 Onions, JMaggot in . . . .2*38 Onions, Cooking 154 Onions, Wealth in 273 Oranges, Preserving.. 132 Oranges notSetting.61, 60 Orchard, Fruit Garden and, 17, 39, ,59, 83, 107, 133, 155, 179, 203, 237, ■251,375. Orchard on Undrained Land 2(M Orchard, Pests of, 8S, 206 Orchard South, Ex- tensive 115 Orchard Manag'nt.. ..257 Orchard, Site for. ...145 Orchard, Restoring. . . 167 Orchard, Draining, 15, 85. 99, 182 Orchards, Thinning.. 6 Orchards, Priming 2*33 Orchards, Mice in 78 Orchards, .4rranj7in(;.l&l Orchid Collecting..'. .369 Orchid Trade 76 Orchid Growing for Amateurs 128, 151 Orchids, Kimball Col- lection 266 Orchids, Native.. 126, 14S Ordering Trees, etc. .275 Oxalis, Double-flower- ing 124 Packing Grapes 262 Pffionies as Garden Plants 261 Pffionies, Tree Div'g 40,60 Paint, A Cheap 225 Palm House, Glass. . . 181 Palms for Culture .... 156 Palms for Room 93 Pansy Growing, Suc- cessful 171 Pansy Culture. ... 131, 242 Parry, William 161 Pansies,Winteringl08,132 Pansies, Bedding 188 Pansies, Worms Eat- ing 365 Paper, Waterproof... 52 Papaver Pavonium . .V2^ Parsnip Culture 204 Parks and Peace, Pub. 89 Passion Flower Prun'g 19 Penstemons from Seed 18, 19 Peach Culture. . . .120, 135 Peach Yellows; Legis- lation 128 Peach Tree Grub . ... 165 Peach Growing, Dela- ware 167 Peach Borers, Rem... 164 Peaches, Various 169 Peaches, Succession.. 180 Peach Trees, Heading Back 130 Peach Stones 157 Peach Trees, Lime ... 133 Peach Custard Pie... 16 Peach 'Trees, Prunlng.188 Peach Y'ellows 314 Peach Y'ellows Treat. 2-22 Peach Enemy, New. . .209 Peach Trees Prot'cted. 57 Peach Orchard. Mich . 46 Peach Culture North. 81 Peach Tomato 2; 0 Peach Betty, A m Peach Preserves 250 P'ch Yellows in Mich. 210 Peach Leaf, Curled .376 Peach Mangoes 374 Peach Pie 374 Peach Blossoms Pro- tected .54 Peach, Yellows 265 Peach, Degeneracy. . "257 Peach, China 109 Peach, Pruning the. . . K)5 Peach, The lOO Peach, Coal Tar for. 109 Peach, The Nectarine. 44 Peach, Shortening in. 85 Peach, A Winter ... 33 Peach, Curled Leaf.. 229, 2.53 Peaches and Grapes together 276 Peaches from Seed ... 61 Peaches and Grapes, Together 253 Peaches, New Var 25 Peaches, Potash for.. 198 Pear Culture Prog 169 Pear Trees. Renew 'g. 12^1 Pear Culture; Blight. 131 Pear Blight.. 16), 212, 189, 263, 364 Pear Planting 204 PearBhght Beetle.. ..349 Pear Tree Scale 19, 41 Pear Culture 215 Pear, The Coles 119 Pear, Louise Bonne. . .365 Pear, The Wilder .... 27 Pear, Louise Bonne. . . 333 Pear, La Conte, Bl'gt.'Ai5 Pear, Cult'ng Stand.. 247 Pear, Angouleme ... 94 Pear, Culture Success. .56 Pear, The Idaho 72 Fear, Which to Plant .65 Pears for Light Soil .180 Pears Cracking 9,19 Pears for Profit 198 Pears on Apples, Grafted 57 Pears pickled 58 Pears, Dwarf 153 Pears, Some Worthy. 174 Pears, New Varieties. 25 Pears. Dwarf Prun'g., 40 Pears, Ripening on Trees - 85 Pears, LeConte Root'g 61 Pears, Keeping tor Winter 270 Pears, Seedlings 60 Pears,Pruning Dwarf. 60 Pea Crop, Hastening. 93 Peas for Canning 18 Peas Packing 259 Peas for Market 85 Peas, Deep Covering. 148 Peas, Depth to Sow.. 213 Perfume Making 225 Periploca, Climber.. .254 Perforated Pot Rim. . .76 Persimmon Culture. ia5 Persimmons, Japan.. 66 Persimmons 165 Persimmons, Japan. 23 Persimmons in Fla. . ..344 Petunias, Double 189 Phloxes Bare 3&) Picking and Packing. 276 Pickle Packing 234 Pickle Making 229 Pine Needles, Use of. 61 Pine Spines Covering. i;j5 Pineapple Fritters 154 Pine Spines, Use of . . . 85 Pine Spines and Straw- berries 157 Pine, The White.. ..349 Pines, Transplanting. 217 Pinks 11 Pineapple in Window, or Garden 268 Pipes, Clean Waste. . .829 Pit, Manure Heated. Wi Plant life. Curiosities. 245 Plant FVames 126 Plant at Work, A 82 Plant Propagation 127 Plant Houses Not to be Closed 86 Plant Thieves 161 Plant Lifting for Winter 274 Plant Culture under Glass, 17, 39, 59, 88, 107, 132. 154, 179, 2C3, 227, 251,274. Plant, House, Manure. 91 Plants in Rooms. ... 38 Plants of Easiest Cul.245 Plants, wintering Ig Plants from Seed 198 Plants, Southern 195 Plants, Herbaceous, from Seed 204 Plants, Fruiting Qual.2:!9 Plants, Frozen 89 Plants. Personified. . 230 Plants, Surplus 314 Plants, Bulbous t'jt Grass 207 Planter, Unpatented. 177 Planting, Fall 4 Planting the Place. . .28 Planting Stock, Where to Procure 28 Plum Rot 253 Plum Culture 92 Plum Stock, Myrob. .135 Plum Culture Draw- backs 178 Plum Curculio, Poison the 200 Plum Pottawatamie . 87 Plum, Native, Talk. . . 4 Plum, Talk from Me.. 91 Plums and Stocks 180 Plums for Home Use. 169 Plums, Wild Goose, . .265 Plums in Sod.. It)9 Plums, Marianna 66 Plums, Fruit'g Native.- 71 Plums, Ja]ian. 23, 66, l:j5 Plums.Freeaud Cling. 157 Plums, Newer Var't's. 25 Plums, About 198 Plums, Black Knot. ..205, 45, 213, Plumbago Capensis Culture 110 Poetry.— A Lost Sum- mer, 10 ; Autumn, 1 ; Ragged Sailors, 18; Woods in Autumn, 10; In the Autumn Woods, S3; The Little Leaves. 32; Red and White Roses, 32; Winter. 43! Song of Leaves, 52; Chrysanthemums, 53 ; December, 52; The New Year, 03; Who is Un- faithful? 76; There is no Unbelief, 76; Pro- mise, 76, O Winter, 89; A Pine Tree, 100; Roses and Snowdrops, 100; March is the First Month, 115; The First Violet, 136; Spring, 136; Springtime. 137; Arbor Day Song, 14,H; Easter Lilies, 148; Spring, 148; Spring-scented Buds, 161 ; Decoration Day Ode, 172; Tulips, 172; Color, 172; June, 186; The Dandelion, 196; Black Cherries, 196; Roses, 196; July, 209; How it all Ended. 220; Buttercups, 330 ; Sum- mer Rose, 2'20; August, •333; Morning, 814; Rain, insriDEx. 244, To the Toad, 244i September, 459; The Day Lily, 268; Mush- rooms, 268; Water- melon, The. au8. Poisons and Bees — 285 Pomace for Milch Cow 240 Ponds, Clayed 196 Poppies, Garden 125 Postage. Cheaper.. 43, 137 Postal Improvement Association 67 Posts, Tarring 174 I'osts for Fences, etc .177 Potash and Potash ... 34 Potato Fertilizers. . . 204 Potato Omelette 1.54 Potato Seed 135 Potato PuflE 133 Potato, Polaris 235 Potatoes in Trenches. 201 Potatoes Profitable. . .165 Potatoes, Two Crops . 253 Potatoes, Frifd 83 Potatoes, Multiply .... 137 Potatoes, Pweet 268 Potatoes, Two Crops in Season 229 Pots and Plant Tubs .174 Pots, Fruit Cans for. .212 Pots. Moss instead of .173 Potting Soil, Making. 126 Potting Bench 243 Potting Loam Prepar- ing Hotbed and. .243 Poulty. Points about. 17, 30. 59. 83, 107, 133, 155, 179, 203, 227, 251, 375. Profit, Not all for 220 Profit Twenty-five Dol- lars 246 Primroses, Chinese, in House 147 Primulas after Bloom. 157 Propagat'g Hardwood Cuttings 41 Propagating Pan — 220 PropagaVn of Plants. 44 Propagat'n of Shrubs and Trees 247 Propagation Fall 275 Protect'g Shrubs, etc. 40 Protect'n Fruit Grow, 244 Protection to Young Plants 162 Prune SouCae 82 Prunes, Cooked 106 Pruning 8 Pruning to a Pole. ... 102 Pruning Orchards... 129 Pruning Old or New Wood 131 Pruning, Time for — 145 Purslane Worm, The. 81 Pumpkin Pie 38 Pumpkins, Large Y'ld 52 Purslane Caterpillar. 2bij Purple fringe. The.. ..269 Putty, Hard 63 a Quack Grass Destroy. 4, 328 Quince the Chinese ... 76 Quince Preserves — 38 Quince on Muck .147,109 Quince on Muck 147 Quince Trees, Salt.86, 229 Quince Propagation .2'i(j Quince, Pruning 156 Quince, Pruning the . . 108 Quince. Range of 84 Quinces 52 Quinces Baked 58 Quinces, Salt for 276 R Rabbits and Mice 65 Rabbits, Protection84,102 198 Rabbits, Pro'ct.n... 60-61 Rabbits. Pear Buds . . . 1.35 Radish Culture 93 Radishes in Japan . . . .270 Raisin Consumers. ..105 Raspberry Growing . . 144 Raspberry Evap 145 Raspberry Culture... 71 Raspberry Pudding . . 82 Raspberry Covering.. 54 Raspberry Picking. ..168 Raspberry Prop'g'n ... 123 Raspberry from Seed. 276 Raspberry Blight. . ..270 Raspberry, ShaCter . . 276 Eiaspberry, Cuthbert South ,34 Raspberries Dy ing.. . 253 Raspberries Pruning. .2!3 Raspberries Running out 188 Raspberries Dying. . ..277 Raspberries, Black... 213 Raspberries, New 169 Raspberries, Var't's..l23 Raspberries, Evap — 123 Reed, The Great 2 Reinwardtia Trigy- num .146 RhododendronProtect276 Rhododendron, The.. 197 Rhododendrons, Ma- nuring 40 Rhubarb Culture 85 Rhubarb Forcing 161 Rhubarb Custard Pie. 250 Rhubarb, Preserved.. 178 Rhubarb, Early 164 Rhubarb, South ,. 122-127 Rhus cotinus ...269 Rice, Cooking 82 Rings inWood— Age . . 19 Road, Telford 8 Roadside Trees in Bel- gium 136 Roadside, Neat 225 Rock Work... 196 Rockery for Bulbs. . . .269 Rockwork, Plants for. 62 Root Graftmg 939 Root Pruning Trees . . 41 Root Cellar, A Model.. 57 Root Pruning 173 Root Grafting 157 Root, Tap, Dispos'g..226 Roots, Apple Tree . . .294 Roots of Plants, The 200 Rose Pruning.... 205. 144 Rose Jar, A 196 Rose Bushes, Prun'g..l95 Rose Beds, Covering. .505 Rose Perfume, Make . .222 Rose Bugs 320 Rose Hedges ...126, 220 Rose Buds Decaying. ,180 Rose Forcing 174 Rose Soil 276 Rose, Hint 185 Rose, Garden Cul 223, 198 Rose, A Good 230 Rose, Cinnamon 267 Roses in Autumn. . .196 Roses in Iowa 196 Boses at Christmaa, Hardy T8 Roses from Seed 10 Roses for Winter 135 Roses for Window ... 2 Roses and Rich Soil . . 178 Roses in Pots 271 Roses, Unpruned 276 Roses, Temp, for 243 Roses, Forcmg in Suc- cession 2.52 Roses, Grafting 353 Roses, Hardy, West.. 268 Roses, From Cuttings. 254 Roses, Propagation . . 104 Roses, Summer Pro- pagation 54, 80 Roses, Ever-bloom'g.. 62 Roses, Mildew on. . .50-60 Roses, Green Fly on.. 40 Roses, Noteworthy... 194 Roses, Deformed — 190 Roses, Hardy 15 Roses, Hbyrid Tea. . ..220 Roses, Early Bud'g. . .221 Roses, Soil for 238 Roses, Culture of ... 177 Roses, Liquid Manur..l72 Roses, Select list. 126, 169 Roses, Black spot on .267 Roses, New 261 Rosebuds dropping. . 157 Rubber Plants, Varie- gated 100 Rust on Raspberries .165 Rustic Work Material.148 Russelia Juncea 112 Saltpetre Solution .... 225 Salsify in the Garden . 123 Salsify Crop, The 15 Salsify Cookmg . . 132, 178 Salsitv, To Cook 38 Salt for Grapevines..l95 Salt for Potatoes. 205, 2.52 Sea Weeds, Compost. 18 Seed Sowing 265 Seed Trade Associa'n. 212 Seed Sowing of i*'me. 116 Seed Growing 136 Seed Sowing Device . . 76 Seed Bureau, U. S 65 ' Seed Savmg 235 Seed, Importance of Good 117 Seeds sown too deep . . 150 Seeds, Good 205 Seeds, Testing 126 Seeds, Source of 2.38 Seeds. Home-saved . . . 249 Seeds, Protecting in Drill 168 Seedling Raising . . . .126 Seedlings, Large or Small 273 Scaffold Improved .. .257 Scarecrow, Mech'nical274 School Yard Hort 119 School-yard Planting. 54 School-yard Adornm't 53 School Yard Improve- ments 66, 138 School Grounds Orna- menting 138, 150 School, Arbor Day in. 1.39 Schools, Improving. . . 189 Scion on Stock, Influ- ence 45 Scions, Cutting 61 Shade for Fruits 208 ShantungCabb"ge,The273 Shelter Belts 145 Shelter Belts, Pine .... 147 Shows, Rules and Re- gulations 151 Shrubs, Select Ill Shrubs, Newer 76 Shrubs, Exochorda. .. 76 Shrubbery, Increase . . 174 Silt Basin 8 Slops, House, on Gar- den 5 Small Fruit Culture .175 Small Fruits. Plea for. 184 Small Fruit Manuringl45 Small Fruits South. . . 18 Small Fruit Obstacles 78 Small Fruits, Cost of Setting per acre ...145 Smilax for Window. . . 89 Smilax, Variegated.. 32 Smilax Turn Yellow.. 253 Snow as Cover 126 Society Am. Florists.. 259 Society, Young Peo. ..150 Society, A State 128 Society, West. N. Y'...130 Society, of American Nurserymen 24" Society of American Florists 246 Society, American Hort. Meeting of... 128 Societies, Why Organ- ize 102 Societies, Success of . . 34 Soda, Nitrate of 85 Soil and Plant Roots.lSO SoO. Lightening the.. 120 Soil, Frost Heaving. . . 72 Soot as a Fertilizer. . . 178 Soot as Manure 2 5 Soot Water 52 Soot. Use of ...252 Sorting. Close 100 South, The New 70 Sparaxis Bulbs 76 Sparrow Trap, A 149 Sparrow Trap, A . .67 Sparrows Deal with.. 244 Spinach Sowing 268 Spirea, A Fine 242 Spirwa, VanHoutte^s.172 Sport in Fern Beech . . 196 Sprinkler, An Home- Made Latvn 243 Spruce Windbreak ... 209 .Spruce, Norway 196 Squash Cakes 2.50 Squash Jam 106 Squash, The Sibley. . . 72 Squashes, RaisingWin- ter 170 Squashes in Winter.. 38 Squashes Failing 18 Squill, The Siberian. 10 Strawberry Midget. . .176 Strawberry Blossoms.166 StratrberryCrinoline .IG'2 Strawberry Notes — 46 Strawberry Early 254 Strawberry Yields — 120 Strawberry Fertilizers 131, 139 Strawberry Planting. 73 Strawberry Growing. 198 Strawb'y Long John. 245 Str'berry, The Pearl, 241 Strawb'y Layering.. .254 Strawb. FertiUzer 156 Strawberry Growing in Oswego Co. N.Y.118 Strawberry Packing Shed 49 Strawberry Culture, 52, 198, 217 Strawb'y Plants, Lay- ering In Pots 306 Strawberry Seed, Sow- ing 161,206 Strawberry Manuring in Summer 217 Strawb'y Runner Cut- ter 228 Strawberry Beds, Burning 153 Strawberry Forcing, 97, 181 Strawberry Manage- 1 ment 102 ' Strawberry Season, Prolonging, 73 Strawberry Beds, Burning 70 Strawberry Warfield's No. 2 72 Strawberry Ground, Fitting 148 Strawberry, Jessie... 270 Strawberries in Pa. .270 Strawberries in Wint . 52 Strawberries in Fla. . .148 Strawberries Early ... 145 Strawberries Ailing ... 145 Strawberries in Matted Hills 123 Strawberries, Eating.. 196 Strawberries, Seeding. 188 Strawberries, Among.216 Strawberries, New.. 235 Strawberries, Pist ... 79 Strawberries, About.. 66 Strawb's, The Newer. 169 Strawb's, Ashes for.. 181 Strawb's, Fall Mulch. 201 Sirawb''s in Indiana .2S7 Strawberries, Pistil- late 265 Strawberries, Stimu- lating 48 Strawberries.For large Crop 62 Strawberries, Water- ing 203 Strawberries, Setting old Plants 188 Strawberries, Manur- ing for 174, 228 Strawberries, Early, Late 210 Strawberries, Propa- gating 37 Strawberries, Raising Seedling 5 Strawberries, Plant'g Alpine 238 Strawberries, Land, 108, 143 Strawberries, Fertiliz- ers for 99 Strawberries for large yields 95 Strawberries, Profit, 39, 112, 122 Strawberries, Prepar- ingfor 108 Staking Trees, Orch.. 216 Steam Dose, A 268 Stephanotis Culture . . 19 Stock, to Sell, No.... 309 Stocks in the Spring. .211 Storage, Cold 131 Storage House, Fruit, 158 Sweet Potatoes North 192 Sweet Potatoes, Chem- ical Manures for... .202 Sweet Peas Failing, 19, 60 Sweet Corn, Canning. 19 Sweet Peas, New . . . 77 Sweet Potato Culture, 84, 85 Swmdie, A Royalty. ..233 Syringa, Gold-leaved, 157, 204. Tansy Plant, The. .196 Tariff and Fruit 139 Temperance and hor- ticulture 131 Testing Seeds 126 Thermometer, RotarylbS Tin Cans for Plants. .173 Tiger Flowers, Whitel49 Tigriilia, White 149 Toads. Cherish the... 148 Tobacco,Sweet Sc't'd.20o Tobacco Fumigation Ig Tobacco, Sweet Flow 24i Tomato Culture. lOS, 162, 258,263. Tomato Soup 55 Tomato Proper Tr'in'gl06 Tomato Worms 274 Tomato Tests in 1887. 91 Tomato Grafting 268 Tomato Blight 277 Tomato Training 374 Tomatoes and Rice. . . 154 Tomatoes, E'rly M'k't 3 Tomatoes, Protectinga7 7 Tomatoes,About Bome259 Tomatoes, Early. 164, 181 Tomatoes, Trench 225 Tools, Some Simple . . 190 Tools 166 Transplanter, A Val- uable 116 Trees, Mice and 115 Trees, Ornamental for North 128 Tree Seeds, Planting 37 Trade, Tricks of .136, 150 Tradescanthia Ball, A226 Training to a Hoop. .308 Transplanting Flow'rslOS Trap For Beetles. . . 189 Tridax Bicolor 74 Tree Planting 94 Tree Guard, A CfteoplOO Tree Bark, Scraping. . 147 Tree Planting, Profit. 150 Tree Agents, and P.G 149 Tree. Renewing Old.. 01 Tree Roses, Growing .2M Trees and Shrubs — 158 Trees losing Bark 195 Trees Weeping of the i West 211 Trees, Hardy 100 Trees, Ornamentall02,169 ; Trees, Select Ill ' Trees, New Method of Transplanting 81 Trees Dying 277 Trees, Fertilizers for. 877 Trees, Whitewashing 70 Trees, Right Methods of Setting 143 Trees, Trouble with.. 257 Trees, Study the 170 Trees, Weeping . .207 Trees, Spraying with Poison 189 Trees, On Setting .... 189 Trees, to Make Over. .212 ! Trees, Heeling in - . 63 Trees, Pruning, etc.. 63 Turnip Growing 258 Twig Blight 85 I U Umbrella Tree, Varie- I gated 1.35 ! Umbrella Pine, The.. 20 32 Valley Lily Bed of . . . Varieties runing out. .2^8 Varieties, Identified.. 34 Varieties, Question of 78 Varieties, Running out47, 265 Varieties, Safe Advice about 128 Vars. Deteriorating. .142 Veg. Marrow, Prepa'g274 Vegetable Culture. 80, 121 Vegetables, Notes on . 08 Vegetable Soup 38 Vegetable Growing.. 143 Vegetab'e Gardening 150 Vegetable Acids .... 258 Veg. Seed Sources ... Hi Veg. Oyster Cooking. . 133 Vegetable Degenera- tion 270 vegetable Garden, l7, 39, 59, 83, 107, 133, 155, l79, 203, 227,251,275. VegetableProducts on Table 178 Vegetable Plants for Ornament 172 Vegetables, Cooking274 Vegetables, Newer... 174 Vegetables, Keeping. 41 Vegetables, Forcing. 131 Vegetables, Mark'ting223 Vegetables of a Great Market 150 Verbenas New 88 Verbenas Rotting 263 VentiVt'r, Novelforml^i Vincas 220 1 Vine Leaves, Warts40, 81 i Vine, Resin of the 116 Vines at Newport 81 j Vines, Renovating .. 41 | Vine Fastener for Trellise 213 Vine Culture Under Glass 213 Vines, WInt. Heaving 71 Vineyard, Fine Mich. 121 Vineyard, A profitable 43 Vineyard Notes. Ohio 95 Vineyard Notes 26 Vineyards. Protecting from Spring FrostF.153 Vineyard, Kniffen System of Training 09 I Vineyard, Care of. .200 Vinegar from Cider.. 18 Vinegar Eels 40 Violets in France 268 I Violet Culture. ..104,181 Violet, Disease of.. . 30 I Virginia Creeper ! Using 140,209,241 Window Plants 226 j Walks and Jottings. . . 104 Walks and Drives. ... 9 Walks, Kitchen Gard.106 Wallflower Sowing. ..267 Wallflower Culture. .182 Walnut Culture.54, 61, 85, 109 Walnuts, Transpl't'g. 77 Wasps and Fruit . . . 1.35 Water Lily Culture. .162 Water Cress 70 Water Plants, Ctrtain. 77 Water can for flants.201 Water Lilies, Hard- iness 266 Water, lefluence of. .. 41 Water, Hyd't, Syring- ing With 67 Watering Pot, The... 173 Watering Trees 187 Watering Amaryllis.. 10 Watering Can, Im- proved 10 Watering, Goouell on. 76 Wax Plant Manage- ment 60 Weed Pests in Lawn. 220 Weed, Butter and Egg .52 Weeds in Nursery .... 05 Weeds, Killing 877 Weeds, Advance on . . 137 Weeds, Good Rule... .185 Weeding Rake, Home- made 189 Weeping Trees, Pro- pagating 205 Weigelia Rosea for Hedge 61,00 Wevils, Bean and Pea.205 White Daisy Pest 274 Whitewash Quickly.. 274 Willow Roots, Kill'g, .204 Willow, Kilmarnock. .821 Willows on River B'k's 40 Willow Twigs for Staking 816 Windbr'ks, Thoughts on 141, 201 Windoio Plants, Be- gonias 30 Window Pl'ts,Careof.l53 Window Plants, De- sirable 83 Windows in Order 30 Winter Covering. ... 50 Winter Work 97 Woodpeckers, Fruit. .189 Wire, Train'g for Pots 53 Wisconsin Fruits 272 Wi-taria, A Word for. 12 Women Berry Grow's.240 Women and Hort ; 148 " Woodbank's " 161 Working on Time . . 143 Workingmen's Flower Show 12 Worm, The Purslane . 81 WormsFall'g in Show- ers 830 Worms in Flower Pots. 19, l;«, 205 Worms, Angle 205 Worms, Fall Web.... 2:18 Worms, A Plague of .268 V Yard, Laying out Steep 181 Yellows, Peach 102 Zinnia Culture 148 Zinnia Seed, Saving. . 61 October, 1887 POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "V" o L TJ ns/o: E III. Autumn. 'Tis Autumn hy the half -clothed Trees, And all the land is seeking rest; The Bluebird, Robin, and the Bees Are now In quest of winter ease. The Acorns and the Walnuts fall; The Milk -weed turns its leaves to gold. And Thistles nod. and Blue-stems tall Grow slowly old at Natiu-e's call. The skies have donned their brightest blue. And trimmed their robes with fleecy lace; For Autumn's task Is almost through. And Winter's face appears in view. Late growth in young Oleanders mean.s no flowers next year; ripen such off gradually now. The Apple chop of Canada promise.s to be a good i>ue, there ha\ing been little suffering from drought there as compared with many parts of the States. Lifting and potting plants may make rough hands, but this does no harm. At the same timp a little ammonia or borax in the wash water will soften them. FRtJiT Storage with a Vengeance. A Brook- ticld, Pa., correspondent wiitas that the common mode of storing fruit in his section has been to put it in a warm cellar, bank it up warm, and after the work of decomposition has gone on until spring shovel it u]) and carry out and dump. The keynote in the successful arrangement of cut flowers is never to crowd the individual blooms; keep them apart by a backing of moss or Lycopodium between the stems, if the circum- stances of the case admit of no other way. A good florist makes his flowers go a great ways. The Wealthy Apple. The complaint is some- times made that this is not a good keeper. A grower who claims t« have the largest orchard of this variety in New England says that it is only those who put off gathering too long and let the fruit become over-ripe that experience the trouble complained of. He says the Wealthy, and all winter Apples, should be gathered as soon as the skin is colored up and the seeds have turned brown, which with the Wealthy is on or before October 1st. Gardeners and Florists' Club of Boston. This is an organization of the enterprising florists and gardeners of Boston, and of which W. J. Stewart was the first president. It embraces in the neighborhood of 100 members. Judging by the at- tendance of members and the character of the pro- ceedings of a meeting which it was the writer's good luck to be present at receutly, it is a society destined to have a most useful career, and to be of special benefit to the trade of Boston. A grand flower show to be held in one of the fall months is under contemplation. Enriching Land. .Joseph Harris is reported by an e-xchange as telling of a farmer who selected a piece of land for a large garden, and prepared it by plowing and sowing Buckwheat in spring, and when this was in flf)wer he plowed it under, and again sowed it with Buckwheat. This second crop was very heavy, but by means of a chain attached to the plow he turned this weU under. In September sowed the land to rye, and this he plowed under the next year about the middle of May. The land thus became wonderfully mellow and full of vegetable mattei-, and by the addition of some manure and phosphate he had a grand piece of ground on which to raise vegetables. The Moon Flower. Ipomea grandi- flora syn. Ipomea noctileuca. PETER HENDERSON, JER.SEY CITi' mSIOHTS, N. J. From the immense number of this beauti- ful climber that was distributed last spring in every State and Territory in the ITuiou, there has been created such a widespread interest about it, greater perhaps than that made by any plant ever before introduced, that there is but little doubt that any infoi-- mation that can be obtained about it will be interesting to cultivators. Last week Mr. Elias A. Long, editor of this magazine, and Mr. Wm. li. Smith, Superintendent of the Botanical Gardens at Washington, met at my place, when the question of the proper botanical name of the Moon Flower came up. Mr. Smith, who perhaps is the highest authority we have in botany here, says that the true Moon Flower is known to botanists as CnUinyction ririnidifiord, hut admits that the popular name of Ipomea will proltably be held in use; but the iniportaiu pmi;a {iruiidijloru. Cuttings three or four inches long put in like Geranium slips wiU root in a week, and should Ije i^otted into small pots just as Geraniums or any otlier house plant; if desired they can be grown to festoon the windows of the sitting-room, or if grown in a greenhouse, where they would get plenty of light, they would flower in winter, but light is essential to their blooming either in winter or summer. Witli all care the past season we grew in boxes a lot of them on the north side of our seed warehouse in New York; they have grown vigorously to a height of tliirty feet, but bloomed very spar- ingly, while plants set out about the same time on the south side of a IjuUding, where they had sunshine all day, are blooming in the gi'eatest abundance yet and have done so for nearly two months. In all cases where the lyomca ijramliflora, the true Moon Flower ha.s failed to bhjoni, it must have been in consequence of its being grown in whole or partial shade. Fruit Preservation: M. P. Wilder's last Essay on the Subject. The following matter is from one of the last essays which the late Marshall P. Wilder presented to the Massachusetts Horticult- POPULAR GARDENING. October, ural Society, and as it cannot but prove of timely interest to onr readers we reprint this portion here: "After many years of experience, both with and without ice, I have adopted a house built in a cool, shady aspect, with the door on the north, and with a thorough- ly drained and cemented cellar, having small double windows which may be opened or closed at pleasure. In this way I am en- abled to keep my late fall and vi-inter Pears until February or March in good condition. Mr. John J. Thomas writes me that in a fruit room of this kind, by admitting air on cold nights, and closing the entrances when warm, he had sound Lawrence Peai-s in March, and Josephine of Malines in April, and Baldwin Apples in June. " My late tall and winter fruits, intended for long keeping, are allowed to remain on the trees until frost is apprehended. They are then gathered with great care into bushel boxes, and placed in tiers of boxes six or seven feet high, and covered with boards, on the north side of my fruit house, where they are kept until the ground begins to freeze. They are then removed to the cellar, and there piled up in the same man- ner, with thin strips of boards or shingles between the boxes, until wanted for use, when the boxes are looked over and the more matxire are from time to time taken out. In this way I keep Pears until March or April in perfect condition. " In regard to use of ice, I would say that where fruits are kept for some months under its influence at a very low temperature they seem to lose much of their flavor; the cellular tissue also seems to have become dry and to have lost its vitality or power to resume the ripening pro- cess. Experience proves that, for the common varieties of the Pear, about forty degrees of Fahrenheit is the tem- perature best suited to hold this pro- cess in equilibrium. The proper maturing of fruit thus preserved demands skill and science. Different varieties require different degrees of moisture and heat, according to the firmness of the skin and the texture of the flesh. Thus, some varieties of the Pear will ripen at a low tempera- ture and in a comparatively dry at- mosphere, while others are improved by a warm and humid air. "Mr. S. W. Dorr, of Michigan, con- structed a fruit house on the cold air system without the use of ice. He lays down the principle that in order to keep fruit for any length of time the store-room must be frost- proof and kept at a low, even temperature — three or four degrees above freezing — with sufficient ventilation to carry oft' all moisture and impurities. He was able to keep his house within three degrees above freezing for Ave months; and when the temperature outside changed sixty degrees in twenty -four hours, the change in the fruit room was im- perceptible. Again, when the thermometer fell to points varying from six to twenty degrees below zero, Ave days in succession, the temperature scarcely changed one de- gree in the fruit house. " This result was effected by building a house with triple walls, fifteen inches in thickness, ten inches of which was filled with sawdust. "One chief condition of success consists in the state in which the fruit goes to the cool- er. It should be taken before any sound specimen begins to show ripeness, and no single fruit should be stored that has fallen to the ground; for, however perfect it may seem, sooner or later that dropped fruit will make its presence known, and will often I cause the decay of the whole package unless noticed in time, which rarely happens when hundreds of bushels are piled one above another for a month or two. The fruits in- tended for cold storage houses should go directly from the orchard. "The cause of so many failures— in storing Pears, for instance, — is that the fruit is often liought of different parties, much of it im- perfectly packed, and coming to hand in no condition to go to the cooler; perhaps it has been gathered weeks previously, or carried long distances and become more or less bruised, and rendered in all respects unfit for keeping in this way. "The after conditions of success may be briefly stated as follows: Tlic perfect control of temperature, Ihflxt mid moisture; all ex- perience shows that without such control success cannot be attained. Storage apart- ments must be dark, dry, uniformly and ure no better manner of disposing of the plant can be suggested than to set it in a clump on the lawn. Those who employ it here, making the ground deep and rich, will not be disappointed. Like all larged leaved plants it loves shelter from the wind. Where the making of sub-tropical gardens is carried on there can be no better subject among hardy plants to be employed than this. There is a stateliness in its strong stalks and large glaucous-green arching leaves which gives it a distinct and striking appearance in any collection. It also may be employed with no ill effect as a strong, tall-growing conservatory plant, to be grown in a large pot or box. The plants are propa- gated by seed or division. Most of the larger growers of hardy plants can furnish roots of this Reed at a very moderate price. Besides the Great Reed referred to, there is another form of the plant, namely, the Variegated Reed, .A Donaxvcriiicolor. This, although much smaller than the type, has its leaves most distinctly ribboned with white, rendering it very ornamental in fine gardening. It is best suited to warm, free and good soils and abhors clay or au un- drained soil. This variety should never be trusted out through the winter without ample protection over the roots. For isolated tufts or groups in a warm part of the garden it is most an excellent plant. The Variegated Reed is propagated by placing a piece of the stem in wa- ter, which induces little plants to start from the joints; these should be cut off, potted up, and kept in a nurs- ing place under gla.ss until well estab- lished. Most nurseries that keep the common fonn for sale also have the Variegated at some advance on the cost of the other. THE GREAT REED AS AN ORNAMENTAL PLANT. moderately cool, and constructed so as to exclude at pleasure the variable external atmosphere. Apples may be kept at a lower temperature than Pears— say 34 to 40°. The Great Reed as an Ornamental Plant. Our engraving affords a good represen- tation of the .strongest growing of all the grasses suitable for ornamental purpose. This is the Reed of Southern Europe, Aruiulo Donax, a plant that in rich soil as- sumes a height of 10 or 13 feet in a season, and which produces a picturesque tropical effect under cultivation unequaled by any other growth of which we have knowledge. The plant proves to be quite hardy as far north as Buffalo, although in the writer's garden, in common with many other plants, it receives the benefit of a coat of litter over the roots at the approach of winter. We have a notion that all fine plants are deserv- ing of such treatment. This Arundo is a plant of very easy cult- ure in ordinary soil, i)rovided the soil is well enriched and the plant is supplied with free moisture at the root, for it naturally prefers damp situations. A flue situation for it is at the edge of a lake. But in common cult- Hardy Roses as Window Plants. One of the easiest and yet most satisfactory accomplishments in win- dow gardening is the blooming of some hardy Roses in pots or boxes in March and April, by preparing for the matter now. What is wanted for the purpose is some one or two-year '•* old plants that have been growing outside under cultivation during the past season. These should be care- fully lifted during October and placed in pots preparattiry to giving them suitable winter care. In potting the Roses referred to care should be taken to always have the soil well firmed; the soil should be a good loam, and if there is some decayed turf along with it, all the better; avoid sand. The plants should be pruned of about one-third of the length of the branches. Let them stand in a shady place, that is not exposed to the wind, for several weeks after potting, having no fear, however, of frost that is not severe enough to freeze the soil. After this the plants should be brought to a cool part of the cellar where air can oc- casionally be admitted to them, or be given a place in a cold pit, until January, after which time the window is the place for them. In forcing, hardy Roses like moderate heat, light and water. A Good Method of Grafting. JAMES WORCESTER, MIDDLESE.X CO., MASS. A way of grafting was shown me last winter by an old gentleman, with which I have had great success. It was new to me: it may not be to you, but some reader may like to know of it, hence I send three fig- ures representing sometliing of the process : One great advantage over splitting the stock is, that the wax can be put on very 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. thin and the water cannot get into the wood and rot it, as with painstaking there need be no crack. Select the scion in the ordinary way and instead of cutting the i)ark on both sides and making a wedge of it. cut on only one side half through the .scion and then domi and off as shown in Fig. 1. Next, cut off the limb to be grafted, and pare the wound neatly on top so that it will heal over better. Then by inserting a smooth bone wedge, F.-ff. I Fig. 3 A Oood Ifethod of Grafting: Fig. 1. the Scion; Fig. 2, a Bone Wedge: Fig. .!, Graft ready for the Wax. which is shown in Fig. 3, crowd away the bark from the wood on one side .just enongh to admit the scion, but not enough to split the bark, and carefully push the scion down to the shoulder with the wood of the scion against the wood of the stock. Should the bark of the stock happen to split, however, it will not matter materially, for the next thing to be done is to cover the top of the stock and the bark back of the scion with grafting wax to exclude air and moisture. This then should be wrapped mth a strip of old cotton cloth, which needs merely to be stuck on with grafting wax and not tied. This way of grafting is so simple and sure that almost any one, even a child of ordinary intelligence, can work over the wild trees on a place with success. What of the Earlier Flowering Chrys- anthemums. JOHN THURPE, yCEENS, N. Y. I am pleased to give a list of the best of these. At the same time I fear that there are no early flowering Chrysanthemums that are at all satisfactory or likely to be. What I mean by early are those that flower from July 1.5th to September 1.5th. My experience with such has been entirely unsatisfactory. For six years I have consistently tried this early flowering class. Without exception the flowers all suffer from the excessive heat and are discolored and bedraggled in appearance. The foliage also wilts and is generally covered with black fungus. There are, however, a few varieties be- tween the 1.5th of September to October 1.5th that are presentable, but as a rule the best Chrysanthemums come after the middle of October. The following are the early ones: Golden Madame Desgrunjje,— primrose yellow. Deuil De Pere,— reddish crimson. Flora,— deep golden yellow. Frederick Pele,— deei) crimson red. Fiberta, — rich canaiy yellow. La Petite Marie,— white. Lyon,— deep rosy purple. Mr. W. Piercy,— red. Mrs. Jas. R. Pitcher,~white. Rose D'ette,— light rose. Alex Dufour,— brilliant violet. Alice Butcher, — red. Boquet Estival, — deep rosy shade. Felicite,— changing from orange to yellow. General Canrobert,— yellow. La Vierge,— pure white. Mandarin,— creamy white. Roi Des. Precoces,— rich crimson. Soeuo. Melaine,— pure white. and they proving a success as to earliness when prices ruled high, I concluded this season that if a few vines would pay, more would pay better. So I started enough early to give me one thousand plants after being twice transplanted. These early plants were cared for in hot- beds until time for setting out in the ground, some of them being in blossom at the time. The result was I had bushels of ripe Toma- toes three weeks before the crop of hot-bed sown plants began to ripen, and they sold readily at from $2.00 to *.3..50 per bushel for the main crop, although many were de- stroyed by rot and hot weather; yet I real- ized more profit than from the same amount of ground in berries. The berries were nearly gone when the Tomatoes came in for market. The Tomato seems to meet the wants of consumers atter they have been supplied with berries for several weeks, and they get out of the producer's way before Tomatoes come in. We would like to hear through these col- umns from some of the practical Tomato growers, giving mode of raising early plants px-iorto setting in the field, marketing, kinds grown and manner of culture. Early Tomatoes for Market. A. M. N., LICKING CO., OHIO. Having in 1886 experimented on a small scale with Tomato plants of an early variety, The Japan Anemones. Were we restricted to half a dozen hardy garden plants, one of these should be the White Japan Anemone figured herewith, another the rose-colored species, from which the white is thought to have emanated as a sport. The flowers of these plants woiild prove attractive at any season, but coming as they do in late September and October when flowers are few, they prove exception- ally welcome. The Japan Anemones possess about every desirable quality of an ideal border flower. The plants are perfectly hardy, succeeding in rich soil with no more attention than Pasonies and similar easily grown things re- quire. They are handsome for their leaves of picturesque ternate and toothed foi-m and deep green color, if never a flower was to be seen. Both varieties are first-rate plants for groups, borders or the wUd garden. By hav- ing them in various situations, some on the north border and some on a warm one the bloom may be greatly prolonged. The white form, as Mr. Robinson has pointed out, is a most charm- ing plant for occupying a place under shady trees. The flowers are of a fine form, several inches acros>- in size, ami well born I' above the plants, as can be seen by our engrav- ing. In rich- ness of color and texture the blooms are not ex- celled by those of any other garden flower; and there is a con- spicuousclus ter of yellow stanjens to each that seems to beautifully set off the flowers. It is supposed by some that the white is the original form of the plant, and with some reason. Various hybrids between this and other species have been raised in En- gland, but none to our knowledge has come up to the Japanese in flneness of flowers, — we may have long to wait for such an one. By a little management it is easy to have these Anemones in flower as pot plants in the window or conservatory. For this pur- pose they should be lifted and potted when the buds begin to show, an act requiring no skillful management. In the house they bloom even more handsomely than outside, where they have to contend against the chill- iness of Autumn weather. As cut flowers few blooms are more lovely than the Ane- mones. For this pixrpose they have the admirable quality of lasting fully a week if they are cut when opening. Plants of the Anemone can now be pro- cured of all the leading nurserymen and florists. As to propagation, every bit of the root grows when divided. Advantages of Fall Manuring. The time of all others in the year which we prefer for applying manure is in the fall, the sooner after October 1 the better. Then we like to see it spread at once, and in the case of cultivated land to set the gang-plow, or if fine enough the harrow, going immedi- ately to work it well into the surface before the ground fi-eezes. The gain by this course is that the manure is in position to have its soluable parts carried into the soil by the autumn rains, while it is safe from washing or blowing away, as is not the case with manure spread after the ground freezes. During the winter the frost can then also fine the insoluble parts, making them directly available as plant food to give the spring crops a prompt start. But the saving of the strength from winter washing is one of the best points in favor of fall manuring. Even in the care of lawns and pastures, if fine manure is spread early in autumn it becomes so beaten into the turf as to be secure against washing or blowing away. Something similar to this is true in the case of land plowed or spaded in the rough, over which manure now is spread; it has a chance to settle into the depressions left, and thus is safe from loss and in the best possible shape for mingling with the soU. As compared with spring manuring the advantages of fall applications, we think, are nearly equal to a double crop. This is reas- onable, for in the former case the manure, CLUMP OF THE WHITE JAPAN ANEMONE. applied perhaps in dry weather, may lay for the possible lack of rain for a long time in a poorly available shape, when with fall manuring the richness is already dis- tributed just where needed. It is well known that the value of manure is increased in pro- portion to the earliness of the period when the plants first derive benefit from it. POPULAR GARDENING. October, Notes from a Rochester Fruit Farm. BY CHAS. A. GnEEN. Fall Planting. "ShaU I plant plants, vines and trees in fall or spring," I am asked. My reply is plant both in fall and spring. " Bnt which season is usually most desira- ble? " My practice has been to plant in the fall if ready at that season, and I make an effort to be ready, for I know there is usually much to be gained thereby. Early spring is one of the most hurried seasons. We wait long for the frost to disappear and the soil to dry, then when the desired moment ar- rives everything needs attention at once, and as a natural result many things are left undone, and usually it is the plauting of fruits that is thus neglected from year to year. But in the fall there is usually several weeks of comparative leisure, when planting can be done with the least possible incon- venience, and the soil is in the best possible condition, neither too wet nor too dry, but fine, crumbling, and easily prepared. Aside from this incentive comes the fact that those who order trees from a distance have a cooler and safer season for shipment, enabling the shipper to send by freight rather than ex- press, thus saving considerable expense. Nurserymen have more time to attend to orders in the fall, can ship more promptly, and have a more complete assortment of varieties. If, through delays that sometimes occur on railroads, freight is delayed in late spring, it is more serious than delays in fall shipment. But the great gain in fall plant- ing is the early growth secured the succeed- ing spring. This is caused by the plants or trees becoming firmly settled in place, and ready to receive full benefit from the early spring storms, often having formed numer- ous roots before spring planting would be possible. While there are many arguments in favor of fall planting, there are some against that season. Trees cannot endure such low tem- perature after being dug as before digging, hence where the winters are very severe it might be best to heel in the trees until spring, covering roots, trunks and branches, but in New York State such a course is un- necessary with hardy fruits. Another dis- advantage is the liability of the frost to heave newly planted plants, vines, and trees. For this reason I do not advise fall planting of Strawberries, txnless planted before Sep- tember 1.5th. Raspberries, Blackberries, Grape-vines, and trees can be made safe against heaving by throwing a forkful of strawy manure over each plant, or about each tree. Or the trees may be banked a foot high about the trunk. I often find numerous new roots formed on the trees heeled in during October when removed for planting the next spring. Currants and Gooseberries can hardly be planted early enough in the spring for best results if ordered from a distance. Much of the loss of planting is caused by planting too late in the spring. As I intimated on the start, I would plant both fall and spring. Strawberries, Peaches, Apricots, and all half hardy kinds in the spring, and Rasp- berries, Blackberries, Grapes, Apples, Pears. Plums, and Cherry trees in the fall. Low OR High Land Fon Fruit. My ex- perience is in favor of upland, I am not afraid even of the hill tops for trees, though they may be too dry for small fruits gener- ally, but not for Grapes. So far as I have observed the high lands give the most pro- ductive orchards and berry fields. Low lands are apt to lack drainage, and nothing is more fatal to success than wet feet for trees and plants. Low lands are also sub- ject to late spring frosts, which are a more prolific source of failure in fruiting than many suspect. Low lands are apt to induce a rapid succulent growth not favorable for fruit, nor for longevity. Mucky soils are often totally unsuited for fruit culture. I have often been called upon to assign a reason for the unproductiveness of orchards. In most cases I have found these orchards on low or level land, and never on hill tops. When a boy I planted a field to Apple trees which was so hilly as to be ditficult of cult- ure. It was the only lot my father would permit using for the purpose. On some of the knolls the soil was as Iiard as a road bed, and demanded pickaxe and crowbar to excavate for planting. To-day that orchard is one of the most productive in the country. It began to bear early and has kept bearing, and the Apples are large and free from de- fects. Necessity here compelled me to plant on the best site on the farm. A friend purchased a farm near Portage Falls, N. Y., partly in the valley and partly on the bins' 2(J0 feet above. He asked my advice about planting, and was told to plant on the bluff and avoid the valley. He considered me a lunatic. " Why the vaUey is protected, and is by far the warmest spot. No sane man would plant on the exposed bluffs." He planted in the valley and you can imagine with what success. Fall planting should not be attempted on low wet soU, for the plants or trees would be apt to heave out. I would not advise planting on such .soil at any season. Some writers assert that Quinces must be planted on low lands, near brooks, etc. I would prefer higher soil even for Quinces. With rich soil and frequent shallow culture they will do better with me on the uplands. And yet there are localities where it is claimed that fruits on low lands do exceedingly well. Such localities are exceptional. Destroying Quack Grass. For years I have been studying the question of destroy- ing Quack Grass, June Grass, and Canada Thistles. I have tried plowing in June and summer fallowing, but the roots of June Grass or Quack would not rot, but kept sending out new shoots. Even where not re-plowed until the succeeding spring we found the roots in the same live condition. To-day, September 8, we begin to re-plow the second time after six weeks of cultivating, harrowing and gang plowing, which has destroyed the roots near the surface. After this second plowing we will continue har- roning, cultivating and gang plowing, and in the worst places will plow the third time just as winter opens, leaving the furrows rough. We expect to subdue this soil so as to be able to plant Strawberries, Raspberries, etc., thereon next spring. We manured heavily before first plowing. The subse- (luent operations have thoroughly mixed the manure, a desirable feature, for manure as ordinarilly applied is not half spread, and where left in lumps it does actual injury. We once destroyed a field of Quack by plow- ing the sod very shallow just as winter ap- proached. No cultivation was given until the next spring, when Potatoes were planted and thorough culture given, the Potatoes being dug early and the soil kept cultivated thereafter. We never fail to destroy the Grasses and Thistles when we plant a field with trees in nursery rows, the frequent culture given giving them no chance to survive. If I were fighting Thistles alone I would simply cultivate the surface of the soil the entire season. I have never known this to fail. Propagating the Currant. I cut Cur- rant cuttings the latter part of August and plant as soon thereafter as I can get time. The leaves must be stripped off at this sea- son. When I have no time to plant early 1 tie the cuttings in bunches of 100 each and place in a trench dug as deep as the cuttings are long, setting the bundles of cuttings therein butt end up, leaving two inches space between the bundles, then covering the bundles with loose soil, pressing it down firmly, until the spaces between the bundles are filled and two inches of earth cover the surface— that is, the butts. If this is done in August or early September the cuttings will have calloused and formed numerous roots by winter. They may be left in the trenches until spring, but should be planted very early in the spring. Larger plants are secured by fall planting, which is done as foUows: The rows are marked three feet apart after the soil has been carefuUy pre- pared, then furrows are plowed in the marks thus made, and the cuttings thrust in so as to leave one bud only above the surface. Then the soil is hoed back into the furrows and trampled down hard. Just before winter we run a shovel plow between the rows, but use care not to cover the cuttings with earth, then draw strawT horse manure and scatter it over the cuttings so as to shade them and prevent heaving by frost. The shovel plow leaves a valley, the center of which the cuttings occupy. Over this only is the manure scattered. In early spring, after freezing weather has i)assed, the ma- nure is removed. By this method the plants get an early start in the succeeding spring, often growing two feet high the first summer, or nearly as large as ordinary two-year-old plants. Nothing is more easUy grown from cuttings than Currants. Native Plum Talk. D. B. WIER, LACON, ILL. The Native Plums 1 have given very care- ful study for many years and have met with some very valuable points, which I think will certainly revolutionize the culture of stone fruits. One of these, now proven beyond any doubt, is that in this place a mass of the Native Plums in fruit have exterminated the Plum Curculio. Practically it comes to maturity in none of them, and if, as now seems to be the case, this insect prefers the Native Plums above all others in which to lay its eggs, the great problem is solved. Last winter I prepared a paper for Prof. Riley's Entomological Bulletin on this sub- ject, which he criticises quite freely, but the facts newly observed here this season prove me right in every particular. The only secret of having Native Plums in abundance is to have two or more varieties quite near each other for improving the fer- tilization. They cannot poUenize or fertilize their o^vn flowers, a fact which accounts for the many barren trees standing isolated. The fact seems to be that the pollen (male element) ripens, is blown away and wasted before the stigmas (female organs) are ready to receive it. Wherever I have had two or more varieties growing quite near each other they fruit every year, and, whenever a variety is grow- ing either as a single tree or all in a thicket of one kind they have rarely matured any fruit. To illustrate. I have had for years numerous trees of the Wild Goose variety growing not near other Plum trees that have never matured any fruit. The same is true of the Miner, except that it has some- times, but rarely, matured partial crops. Yet these two varieties planted alternating with each other have not failed to mature a crop of plums in seventeen years. The same is true of all other varieties fruited here. Therefore, to have the Native Plums in abundance plant two or more varieties, the more the better, four to six feet apart in rows, the varieties alternating and the rows 1.5 to 20 feet apart. If you plant but one variety you will have little or no fruit; if you plant them orchard style from 15 to 25 feet each way you wiU also have little or no fruit. The isolated barren Plum trees of the country can all be made to fruit abundantly by top-grafting certain other kinds into their uppermost branches for improving fertlliza- 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. tion. My plan is to splice graft other kinds on the terminal twigs of their leading branches. Any one who can whittle can do this. With a thin, sharp knife cnt off a terminal twig with a sloping, smooth cnt upwards, two or three inches from its base, and an inch long. Cut a graft from last seiison's gri)wth of the kind wanted, three to four inches long, with a downward slope at as near as possible the same angle that the twig was cut, I>ay the slopes together with their barks on one side exactly coin- ciding. Hold with the thumb of left hand, wrap and tie tightly with strong string, afterwards covering the splice witli any suit- able grafting wax or clay. The Plum must be grafted early, any time in March, or in February South, when the weather is mild, with scions cut in the fall and properly cared for through the winter. When grafting the Plum and Cherry they are liable to become bark bound im- mediately below the graft and perish. To remedy this, about the middle of June, if growth is started, cut through the wax, string and bark, and also slit through the outside bark on all sides from the base of the graft downwards. If there is afterwards any swelling seen at the base of the graft it is best to remove all the hard outer bark down to the green bark for several inches below the graft. The Cherries of the hardy sour families, and Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines, graft freely on the Native Plums, especially of the Chickasaw tribe, but for the North they are best on the hardy Northwestern Plums, and they do better on these everywhere than on any other stock, as well as all the other fruits named above, and Prunus Simoni. AU of these can be fruited much farther north on the Plum than on any other stock, also the hardier line European Plums can be satisfactorily fruited in this way, North or South, if grafted high up. Nebraska Fruit Notes. A. M. DANIELS, YORK CO., NEB. Last winter and spring were the most dis- astrous on fruit trees, shrubs and vines known in seven years. Many old and tried kinds were injured. Of Grapes none have stood better than the Worden and Moore's Early. They are doing better with me than the old and reliable Concord. Pocklington and Elvira have also done well, though the fruit on the latter has been scalded badly by our hot sun. Brighton, .Jefferson and many other half hardy kinds died to the ground, but most of them started again. None of my Grapes had any protection, not even snow. The leaves on my Red Dutch and Cherry Currants have commenced to turn, while those of the Victoria hold their dark green foliage and are still growing. I have faith that we can succeed nicely with the Currant. Give them as much care as you would to raise good Com, and my observation is you wUl be rewarded with fruit. Of Raspberries Tyler and Ohio are far ahead of other black caps. Turner and Shaffer's Colossal are the best of the reds on my grounds. There is no other Blackberry for us as good as the Snyder, and no other Dewberry as good as the Lucretia. As to Plums, all do well. It is as natural for these to grow here as wild Sunflowers. Among the varieties of Cherries, I have the Early Richmond, English Morello, Oli- vett, Reine Hortense, Dyehouse, Montgom- ery and Ostheum. I have the finest rows of the latter that I have ever seen in any state. I have very many of the best varieties of Apples growing, and all are doing well, in- deed they could do no better anjTvhere. As to their fruiting I cannot yet say, but have no reason to believe they will not do well as they get size and age. Crescent, Downing and Sharpless are my choice in Strawberries. Sweet Chestnuts do well. The .Japanese die. Norway and Scotch Pine never faU. White Pine and Noi-way Spruce hardly do as well. On Raising Seedling Strawberries. BY THE ORIGINATOR OF THE JESSIE. Mr. F. W. Louden, the now weU-known originator of new Strawberries, gave an in- teresting account of his past and present methods of raising seedlings, before a horti- cultural society of his State some time ago. This we lay before our readers in a some- what condensed form as follows: Of the varieties extant thirty years ago I procured somesixty different ones, and from these began to raise seedlings. My plan was to select large berries from each variety in my collection. The first year after fi-uiting I sowed the seed from two quarts of berries. This I con- tinued to do for three years, and at the end of five years I had about 100,000 plants in bear- ing. I was astonished to see the immense variety; no two plants or fruit were alike, and scarcely a family resemblance in the whole patch. I found many very large ber- ries with but few on a plant, and many plants bearing medium or small sized ber- ries. I was not pleased with the result, not having made much progress, yet the yield of fruit had paid expenses. For a few years I tried the Wilson as mother, crossed with Longworth's Prolific and McAvoy's Superior. Soon after this there began a general boom in seedlings. Upon the advent of the Sharpless we con- sideranew era in Strawberry culture begun, a very flue, healthy plant, producing a large berry, but non-productive. Since the large influx of new varieties came in, I can date my success in raising seed- lings. I have bought every new kind, feeling at the time that nine out of every ten would prove a failure. The object in view, select- ing those free from rust, ^vith size, flavor and color to suit, was to mix theu- blood with that of my own seedlings, and avoid " breeding in and in " — not merely a whim. About twenty years ago I changed my method and adopted one more scientific. My aim was to produce a large, very prodii- ive berry of fine quality, beautiful color, firm and uniform in size, running large to the last picking, and the plants of strong constitution with a clean, healthy foliage. Claiming to have a berry with all these re- quisites, I will try and tell how I produced it. Some blossoms having both sexes (pistil and stamens) in one flower are called hermaphrodite or perfect. Some have but the pistils with no stamens; such are termed pistillate. The same laws that govern the animal kingdom rule in the vegetable. In crossing I use a pair of small pointed scissors and a microscope. The manipulations are delicate. Suppose we have a variety that yields a large berry, but lacking productive- ness, if a staminate we cut out the stamens, leaving the pistil. Then having selected a sort that we know to be productive, we take a camel's hair brush and collect the pollen from the stamens and apply it to the stigma at the summit of the pistil. If the operation is a success the germ wiU soon begin to swell and produce a fruit. This fruit contains the seed for the new varieties we are after. Plants raised from these seeds will possess the qualities of one or both of the plants; "blood will tell." After this the plant must be covered to prevent insects from bringing pollen from other flowers. For the past seven years I have been using a more simple method. I decide upon the parents, selecting twelve plants (two of a variety). Around these I sink twelve .?-inch pots with soil, fastening runners to each pot and watering a few times. Later a shift is made to 8-iiu-h pots. I keep in cellar through the winter, then about the middle of March place close to each other in a hot- bed, cover with sash, and air as often as the weather will permit. My object is to have the plants bloom be- fore the field Strawberries, thus escajiing outside pollen. After the berries are half grown I thin out to three to a plant. To make sure that seed is ripe I allow the fruit to decay on the plant. I sometimes sow the same season about .luly 1st, but prefer to keep the seed until the next spring. The seed will genninate without frosting. I use eight-inch pots filled with clean, sharp sand, sow the seed from one ben-y, press it in with the bottom of another pot, water with fine hose, sink the pot in soil in a frame, cover with sash, then shade with lath. By keeping the sand damp, in twelve days the plants will appear. When the leaves are the size of the thumb-nail, they are ready for the open ground. The land is prepared the same as I would for the regular field crop. I turn the plants out of the pots, and am careful that the roots do not get dried. I have evei-y fibre of root, so lose no plants. I hoe about every ten days. I allow but one runner to each plant to root, and this in the row. At the end of the season every plant will be strong and bear a full crop the next season. I cover with straw for winter protection. When fruiting I go through the rows every day and writemy conclusions on stakes put in the ground close to the fruit. I re- peat this daily untU the season is over, usu- ally finding about eight per cent e.xtra prom- ising. From these I raise from ten to twenty plants of each. I then prepare a piece of ground long and narrow, set seven plants in a row of each variety, giving each a name. I subject my seedlings to a severe test, which, when completed satisfies me as to what varieties wiU gi'ow and fruit in any place where the Strawberry has a home. House Slops for the Garden. SUSAN POWERS, NORFOLK CO., MASS. Don't throw slops round the house, or drain them into sink ana cess-pool, to taint the house in summer. They are far too val- uable on farm or garden. The proper course is to plug up the sink drain and substitute a cask on wheels to re- ceive all slops, and have them liberally be- stowed on all growing trees and shrubs, which can in summerdisposeof half a barrel weekly apiece, and will surprise with their growth. The soil should be hollowed about the stem, basin-like, to hold water, else it runs off without reaching the roots. In dry times empty the tub of suds from washing on the lawn at evening. It is water and fertilizer for both. A Sweet Briar under the dining-room window had a basin in the soil over the roots, and received all the water left in pitchers, waste coffee and tea grounds after each meal. This matter was occa- sionally forked into the soil; the result of the daily waterings was that the bush grew six times the size of those in the garden. An old pump in the cess-pool (which holds the writer's slops) with hose to carry the water to the compost heap is invaluable, and all the water can be pumped on the heap, making a lighter job of very disagreeable work, and saving excellent fertilizer. A new invention is said to filter all house slops, taking out soluble matters for fertiliz- ers, and leaving the water clear enough for use hi sprinkling plants or for many manu- facturing uses. All solid wastes, whether from closets, or scraps from the kitchen, il' not fed to animals, should be composted daily, covered with old sods or common soil and ashes, thus preventing a very common source of disease, while making the most of everything for enriching the land. POPULAR GARDENING. October, WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BY A. M. PURDY . apples;— THINNING OUT ORCHARDS, EVAPORAT- ING, ETC., CONSIDERED. " What Apple is that yielding so wonderfully?" " The Ben Davis, and we wish we had a thous- and trees in bearing of that sort. It begins to bear young and jields a crop every year, and, as you see, is very productive." " Is it a good Apple for use ? " " No, it's a poor eating Apple, but good for cooking after midwinter. We are now evap- orating it and it makes the finest white fruit and, too, is so very fair and free from worms that al- most every Apple pares and there is scarcely any waste in trimming." "Your trees are generally bearing well, are they not?" " Yes; the best crop we have ever had from our orchard. We estimate at least two thousand bushels from about three hundred trees that are in bearing. We gathered from ten Ked Astrachan trees about one hundred and twenty bushels." " Is the crop generally good in York State ? " " It is not. The Baldwin is the great Apple for Western New York— probably more of that sort planted than all others together, and that variety is bearing very lightly, except about here." " Will you sell your Apples in the barrel ? " "No; we shake them right off and run them through our large evaporators and thus get a better price than we can get by the barrel this fall and save the great expense and labor of picking, as also expense of barreling, etc." " Would you advise planting Apple orchazds ? " " We know of nothing in the long run that pays better. Our trees will net us at least one thous- and dollars this year alone, and no farm crop would bring that from the same piece of land in five years, and yet you see we have small fruits among our trees." " Your trees look very healthy ? " " Yes; and we attribute it to the fact of our having cut out every other tree two years ago. The trees were planted two rods apart and grew together and bore but lightly and we thought we would cut down the whole orchard, but thought first we would try cutting out every other tree. In one year's time a change came over our trees. They used to show that dry, dead appearance by August of each year and this is changed to luxu- riant growth, as you now see, and the result has been that last year we had a fair crop and this year the enormous crop you see. It wiU do to set trees two rods apart, but they must be thinned out by the twelfth year after setting. See those Baldwins, how loaded and what a fine color they have? That's because the sun's rays get into them. You see, t<50, we have cut out the center limb, making the tree shaped like an umbrella, so that the sun can get in at the top." " What have you here ? " "German Prunes, and they are a sight to see, too. There are fifty trees and you can judge for yourself as to their bearing qualities, as also large size of the fruit." " What will you do with them ? " " Evaporate them. The pit is small and meat so thick that they make 10 to 11 pounds to the bushel, and the evaporated fruit always sells high — not less than 18 to 30 cents per pound." " How about your evaporated Raspberries ? " "We shall have 7,000 to 8,000 pounds and we hope to get 30 cents per pound. The price is now 27 to 28 cents. The Gregg Raspberry certainly is ahead of all other kinds with us for evaporating purposes. It wiU give more dried fruit to the quart and will sell for 2 cents per pound more. It holds its shape perfectly when dried and pick- ers can earn more picking them than any other sort. We shaU get more of them on our gravelly high ground than aU others together." "Speaking of evaporating, do you do much?" " We are running four large evaporators here and in an adjacent town and run off about 3,000 to 3,500 pounds every 24 hours." "Do you bleach your fruit ? " "Certainly. It sells for at least 2 cents per pound more." " But some say the fruit tastes of sulphur ? " " Bosh, that talk may do for some fine strung 8en.sitive city visitors, but we challenge any per- son to tell the difference if they did not know what they were eating, and our doctor says all the sulphur they get out of the fruit wouldn't hurt a kitten." "How many Apples do you run through daily? " " From 300 to 250 bushels per day, varying with the size of fruit and the weather." i " What is your rule for telling when fruit will be sufficiently dry ? " " E.xperience is the best guide. In our "Cham- pion " dryers, if fruit is fairly dry when it reaches the first door on lower floor, it will come up all right. It there are a few slices that are not quite cured when they reach the top, by being scraped from racks into piles and coming in contact with the ' chip dried ' fruit all will come evenly." "Do you pack as soon as taken from the dryers?" " No; we allow them to lay a few hours till they begin to ' sweat ' and then pack. It would be impossible to get .50 pounds of fruit when first scraped from the racks into a 50 pound box." " Do you run all night ? " " Y^es. The fruit is pared, cored and bleached through the day and sliced through our slicer through the night, as needed on the racks." " How often do your racks go on ? " " When the thermometer shows 180 to 210 from 10 to 15 minutes, owing to weather and clearness of atmosphere." " Is a different course required on windy days than when still ? " " Yes; when windy the cold ail- slides must be half or two-thirds shut down, but when still all must be raised. To evaporate well give fresh air well heated." "If your fruit does not come up properly cured what do you do ? " " Take it off and put on one rack the contents at least four such racks and run it in below again, taking it out at fli-st door below. Newer Varieties of Fruits; Estimates of Value by Leading Pomologists. REPORT ON DISCUSSION BEFORE AMERICAN POMOLOGICAL SOCIETT, BOSTON, SEPTEMBER 15. Apples. Yellim Trmisparcnt. Hosklns of Ver- mont had begun its culture in 1866. Trees bore in four years, Augtist being its season in Northern Vermont. Good to recommend generally, a good shipper; will keep three weeks if picked when it begins to color. Is little injured by codling moth. There are other Russians closely allied, yet distinct, all of which he calls the Y'ellow Transparent family. But the Yellow Transpar- ent is the hardiest — an ironclad — and with the same culture, of the same size. Tree is disposed to l>e dwarf; has known them to bear a bushel each at 6 feet high. Would plant 12x20 feet apart.. Thinks it is not long lived; somewhat subject to bark blight. White Transparent is smaller, dis- tinct, as good as the Early Harvest, which cannot be said of the Yellow, but it is good enough for market. Early Harvest is not the hardiest. Lovett of New Jei-sey: It had fruited in his State; bearing if anything too heavy, the fruit being small. Smith of Wisconsin said: Is very promis- ing so far as tried. Delaware Wintei: Thought by some to be Louver, but New Jersey delegate said not. Lovett had compared closely with Louver from different sections and found difference in shape, foliage and growth. Pomologist Van Deman, of the Department Agiiculture, said that while out- wardly it resembled Louver, the flesh was yel- lower, the fruit more flat. Wealthy. Paul of Massachusetts was very fav- orably imjiressed with it on high land. Hoskins of Vermont has grown thousands of bushels. Like Baldwin it is not sound in the trunk, hence should be top grafted, as the latter now is uni- vei*sally in New England. Lyons of Michigan reported .some complaints from Wisconsin and Minnesota. Thinks some means must be devel- oped to render more hardy. Hatch of Wisconsin had found it one of four or &ve that graft suc- cessfully on Crab. Observed an element of weakness in winter blight, but with top grafting valuable. Thurlow of Massachusetts would not recommend it while haWng so many good soi-ts. Marvin of New York said it was very satisfactory in Northern New York, and hardier thiui Duchess. A fall rather than winter Apple. Gibbs of Quebec found no weak point in the tree, but it drops its fruit. McHan'si TVTiite. Hatch of Wisconsin says it has in his State made the best record of any one out of 150 varieties, Duchess and other Russian sorts included; is head and shoulders above all others. On rich land it may blight, but not on moderately rich soU. A fall Apple. He is not interested in its sale. Walktce HoivanI, President Berckmans: One of the best and handsomest for the South, and he thinks also for North. Minoh of New Jersey had found it a beautiful tree and desirable variety. Re>d Breiti^heimer. Hoskins: An irooclad, Wolff River. Hoskins of Vermont said it is not ironclad. Hatch of Wisconsin: Hardy in East, but not in West; almost identical with Alexander. Lyons of Michigan said it is so near like Alexan- der, questions whether it worth special attention. Watrous of Iowa finds it'not hardy, fruit much like Alexander. Hoskins of Vermont called at- tention to fact that Russians i-un in families. Fanny. An early Apple. Green of New York had it sent him by Downing and thought it promising. Engle of Pennsylvania pronounced it a fine Apple, deep red, very showy. Lrnj was called, but brought forth no report. Barnc's Striped. Gibbs of Quebec spoke of it as very handsome and of good quality. Imported from England 30 years ago and prripagated as Winter St. Lawrence. [Some on exhibition at- tracted much attention by their beauty.] SaM's Winter. Gibbs of Quebec pronounced it a good hardy tree, fine size, etc.; knows no other so generally promising. Hoskins of Vermont says keep over to Yellow Transparent and is better for eating in spring than in winter. Shaw Apple. Shaw of New Haven described it as a September variety, coming in with Grav- enstein, fine striped, but more crimson and less acrid than the last named. A free spirey grower. Fruit, medium to large, sub-acid and comparing with Fameuse. SaUjme. Lyon, Michigan; Medium size, fair quality in February. Haight of Geneva: Would put quality yet lower. Mann. Van Deman, of District of Columbia, reported it too poor for anything. Nnrth Western Oreening. Van Deman, of Dis- trict of Columbia: It looks like Lowell, not so good, fair quality, will sell well in market. Wat- rous of Iowa ad\1sed to go slow as to hardiness. Jacob's Sweet. Thurlow of Massachusetts re- ported it as promising to become the best late sweet Apple. Lovett of New Jersey said it was large and handsome, of very fine quality, hav- ing a kind of creamy grain. Mcintosh. A delegate who gave the only re- port called it fine looking but otherwise faulty. (To be Continued.) Apple Crafts on Whole or Fractional Roots. DISCUSSION BY WISCONSIN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Mr. Floyd. — When I began to grow stock for my own use I experimented on whole, half and fourth roots. Through these I dis- covered that Nature had made no mistake in growing an Apple root from ten to fifteen inches long the first year of its life; that the office of the upper portion of a root is to throw out brace roots or surface feeders, the lower part to penetrate the sub-soil and feed from below, thus being able to carry on the work of growing and maturing wood and fruit continuously, wet or dry, and its sap is fully charged with material to start the next season's growth. The advantages that a whole root worked tree has, are the trunks are larger, straighter, with plenty of strong buds from which to form the best possible shaped head. You wUl never see crotches, one sided, or illy shaped tops; the branches of top and root are quite evenly distrib- uted and uniform in size. I think I can tell trees, varieties with which I am acquainted, worked on whole or fractional roots, as soon as I step into their midst, also those worked on the upper or lower portion of a root. Mb. Kellogg.- I think Mr. Floyd's experi- ments of no value tried on but one Idnd of trees. Mr. Plumb.- I have selected first, second and third cuts of scions from trees, and I think the question of their growth is simply one of force. Otherwise than this I can see no difference in the relation or form of the roots. The top will event- ually give its character to the root. Mr. Phosnix.- One time I grafted on root pieces a good deal. I made up my mind that their growth was not so strong and upright as though they had been made on seedling roots. They were more irregular. I do not call them as good trees in the nursery; not as vigorous and first class as those on seedlings. I have tried it thoroughly, taking long roots and making four cuts of them, and between the fii-st and second there was no difference at all, a little against the third and still more against the fourth. Some peo- ple say that buds are better than root grafts, but there is no advantage except that you can get a better tree the first year. When you graft Iron- clads you want them to be below the ground. If 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. I could have iron-clad stocks every time, I should not fear if the stock came above the ground. I went South with the idea that top worked trees were better than root grafts, but I had to give it vip on triid. I am trying the experiment now of picking out the best iron-clad stttck I can get to work on and budding grafts on them. The objection; It makes double work. I hope it will be tried by othere also. Mn. TuTTLE.— Years ago I used to make but one from a seedling root. Since that time I don't generally make more than two from a root. I can see no ditference between the working of the two methods. I grow just as good trees as I ever did when I grafted only from the collar. Mh. P.^ttcn.— In 187;; and 1H7;J in the western portion of Wisconsin, as in Iowa, those trees that were ntjt root grafted were lost almost entirely in nui*serics three or four years old. The benefits of Mr. Floyd's procedure are more than counter- balanced by the fact that we get better strength from scion growths. We see that the top of cer- tain trees give the form to the tree far more than the root does. Mil. FtjOVD.— Mr. Gibb sent some scions to Wauwatosa to be grafted, and he stipulated that they shoulil be collar worked. I know that the lower parts of rf)Ots when cut up do not give sat- isfaction. While the upper ones bring foi-th a tree, they do not go down deep. I would not undertake to grow trees from the lower parts of the roots, for there would be so many culls in them. There is a good deal of satisfaction in having a strong root below. The scion having so large a feeding power below makes a better and stronger growth. You do not get an even top though. If the roots are uniform in size the trees will be alm(jst as fine as the roots are. Pruning in the Cold Grapery. On page M of the last volume an article on the Cold Grapery appeared which dealt with the sub,1ect up to the training and other after care of young plants. As then promised, we herewith resume our treatment of the same subject as related to the after training of the vines, this paper to be followed by yet another. The Shout Spur System.— This system is given the preference, as being, aU things considered, the best for the amateur. By this ntethod we always have young wood, which bears fruit but once and is then cut back to a single bud. The plants are set at four feet apart and a main cane allowed to each root, extending after a few years to the ridge of the grapery. We depend on the side shoots for bearing. Let us presume that the end of the first season's growth of a strong spring set vine has been reached, and with all of the season's growth confined to a single cane by having pinched the laterals back to one leaf, as in Figure 1 annexed and the main cane at its point in September. Then in the autumn, about December 1 or earlier, aU the laterals should be taken off and the leader shortened back to three or four feet according to its strength, and be laid on the ground and protected with mats or any similar material for the winter. About; April of the following spring, or , as soon as the buds begin to swell, the vine should be un- covered and within a few days be again tied to the wire. This new length should, in Septem- ber, have its end Fig.l. Stniwina the Laterals pinched to Strength- at one leaj, a. en the lateral buds, and then at the pruning time in the follow- ing December in turn be headed back to within three or four feet of the previous year's growth. A similar course should be pursued with each subsequent season's growth until the top of the house is reached and the vine is complete. The side shoots, which will proceed from the previous sea- son's growth of the cane, should be pinched when they have made their fifth leaf, and if the vine is strong a bunch of Grapes may be allowed to each shoot. Any laterals that form on these canes or the young canes above should be stopped at one leaf, as shown in figure 1. The subsequent management of the vine on tliis close pruning system will be simply repetitional of what we now have had an in- troduction to, that is, the vine will bear its crop of fruit from the shoots proceeding from the spurs, and the bearing wood as well as the laterals must at the next pruning in be cut back to a single bud. In order that the importance of this close pruning may be rightly under- stood attention is Fig. 2. Vine Cane, lower Fig,S, Second year's oyowth, Simr of which was lower cut showing ahadty properly close-pruned, pruned spur, the upper the upper not. one, b, properly cut. SHORT SPUR PRUNING, GOOD AND BAD. called to the figures annexed. Figure 3 is a vine cane showing its spurs, the lower one of which shows proper pruning, the up- per not. The lower part of Figure 3 shows a badly pruned spur of the second year's growth; the upper part, h, a spur of the same age in proper shape. The one thing to be kept in mind is to prune every year to a single bud, thus keeping the young growth near home; if this is not done the spurs be- come unsightly and have to be renewed, as at o. Figure 3. Some growers seem to fear this close pruning as if it would endanger the next year's crop, but if the wood is properly ripened there need be no fear of this, as it is a usual thing for the fruit of the lowest buds to be the finest. By keeping the spurs close they wiU in time throw out from one to three shoots eacli, the strongest and best placed of which should be selected for fruiting; the otliers may be rubbed off, or sometimes one may be pinched back to one leaf to form the base of a new spur and then eventually the old one can be dispensed with. Long ou Renewal Pruning.— This con- sists in animally providing a fresh supply of young branches from which bearing shoots proceed, cutting out aU the branches that have borne the previous season. While re- quiring less pruning than the former method, it is not so easily made successful by ama- teurs, and the fruit is rather less freely pro- duced, but is usually of better quality. The first season one shoot only is allowed to grow from each plant, aud this at fall pruning time is cut dowm to the third bud. The year following two shoots are trained up, of which the strongest is chosen as the fruiting cane of the year to foUow. This one is cut back to about three feet in December, and the others to a single eye. Each eye of the thi-ee-foot cane will produce a fruit shoot the ue.xt season, on which a single bunch only should be allowed, while from the single remaining eye of the other shoot re- ferred to a cane should be grown for next season's bearing. As the vine increases in age and strengtli, several bearing canes, and these stronger, may be provided each season. Grouping Trees and Shrubs. L. B. riEKCE, SUMMIT CO., O. In planting most grounds it is best to so arrange the position of the group as to take advantage of some natural background if possible, as a high hill or bluff, a piece of forest, an orchard, or trees already planted. Where backgrounds of this character are to be had, attention should be paid to the color and blooming qualities of the trees or shnibs rather than to sky outline. Old places many years planted can often be rejuvenated and greatly improved by cut- ting out the interior planting and using the trees upon the outer edges as a background for the new. Unsightly stems and undesir- able views beneath grown trees can in this way be hidden by a growth, which, if planted in harmony with what is beyond, will each year be more beautiful and attractive. In the planting of new places where there is only the buildings, the sky and the ground to consider, charming effects of sky outline can be aimed at, and such effects can be most easily reached by close planting. Of course the minor branches will become dwarfed, and intermingling sooner or later die, but being hidden from sight this is im- material; the outline is what is wanted. To this we can add contrast or symphony in color as we choose. A group once com- menced, if properly placed, can be added to from year to year, as time goes on, with great satisfaction, and in better accord with Nature's methods. The usual plan of planting groups is to place in the center a very rapid growing tree, as a Norway Spruce or Silver Maple, placing slower growers in front or around. This re- sults in an immediate effect of both sky line and difference in size, but eventually the quick growing trees envelop the slow ones, and all that was aimed at is lost. A marked and curious instance of the kind exists within a few feet of where I write. Two trees of an Evergreen group are an Ameri- ican Arbor Vitae and a Siberian, planted at the same time, about five feet apart, some 17 years ago. Now the former projects above, and on either side of the latter forming a gothic doorway, of which the dark green foliage of the Siberian forms the door. The effect is unique, but different from that originally intended. It may be remarked in passing, however, that the life of an Ever- green group is only about 30 years; when having passed its greatest beauty it should be cleared away and another one started. With a practical suggestion I will close. A man owns a lot fronted by tlie universal row of sidewalk Maples. Being the owner of a lot he will be deemed the legitimate prey of the plate-book tribe, and sooner or later he win buy a cut-leaved Birch, an Althea, a .Snowball and a Syringa. Instead of scat- tering these promiscuously around the lawn, let him make one or two Maples near the corner of the yard a background for the Birch and Beech, then toward the house from these he can plant the three taU shrubs, and when the agent comes along who has a Rose Weigelia, a hardy Hydrangea and a Golden Spirea, he can add these to his group, and finally taper off with a group of Chinese Peonies and Deutzia Gracilis. These will be in sight at once, forming a pleasing view all through the growing season, and leaving a beautiful foreground of uninterrupted lawn, easy to mow and gratifying to the eye. Of course other trees can be substituted, only observe the princi- ple of placing the largest farthest away. 422. Bone ManuTB for Fruit Trees. I would use this in planting. Thoroughly mix a quart with the soil that is placed about the roots of the plant. More can be used if it is at hand. For trees that have been planted a year or so I would prefer well decayed stable manure, to be ap- plied generously aud well worked in around the trees at any convenient opportunity.— C.E.P. POPULAR GARDENING. October, TKE COMPLETE GARDEN. X. BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST. Continued from the September Number. ENCLOSING THE GARDEN; DIVIDING ITS PARTS. Along with the improved highway laws in most parts, forbidlng live stock to run at large, the need of fences or like bar- riers at the street front is less obvious than formerly. The same is true on most farms and gardens concerning division fences, a Mg. 32. Hed^e fortified with Cable Thorn Wire. Fig. 33. The Plashing System of hedge making. result mainly due to that improved form of lura aurantica. live stock management which relies on soiling instead of pasturage for feed. But that a complete garden should be en- tirely without boundary or division fences I suppose no one would claim. What it is desired here to call attention to as especi- ally appropriate to the garden in this line is the use of hedges or other live screens. Such are, both on account of their beauty and iitility, well in accord with the idea of gardening. Even though a street fence may not be deemed a necessity for turning away cattle, yet to have the garden pro- tected at the front by a good defensive hedge is desirable enough. It will make the careful owner feel easy against the in- trusion of occasional stray animals, which it is well always to count upon, and of dogs, truant children, fruit thieves, etc., while the hedge will serve as a line between the well kept interior grounds and the less per- fectly cared for roadside beyond. So of boundary liarriers and interior divisions for separating the ornamental, fruit, vege- table and other parts, here hedges of ever- greens or shrubs, or screens of climbers, serve to add a degree of peculiar beauty and interest to the garden not otherwise attainable. They also have a valuable use in breaking off any long and uninteresting scen- ery in the place. EVEKGREEN HEDGES. Among evergreen hedge trees the writer is satisfied that few are equal to, while none excel, the well-known Norway Spruce for Fw.Si. Various forms I, 1 -vT ^ "/ hedaes. a and h hedge purposes. Next ,/(.i„y ,",,£ preferable to this excellent tree I ones. would place the Hemlock and the American Arbor Vitw. In planting I treat the trees as to distance apart and pruning according to the ultimate size desired. For a fine low hedge to be three to four feet in height, and five feet ultimately, the plants are put into well prepared soil in a straight line, and at a distance no more than twenty inches apart. By an annual pruning then of the young tender growth in the early summer there is no difficulty in so controlling the size that an advance in height of not above from one to two inclies per year need be allowed. If a screen eight to twelve feet in height is wanted, the planting should be farther apart, say at four feet in the line. While evergreen hedges, unlike various deciduous ones, are witliout thorns, hence naturally less effective in turning oti in- truders, it is easy, as shown by P'ignre 32 annexed, to unite several lines of cable thorn fencing material with the evergreens for forming a perfectly defensive barrier. This is done by setting strong oak stakes (not posts) at a distance of 16 feet apart along the line soon after the trees are set, and upon which to attach two or three coils of the wire referred to. After some years the stakes will decay at the ground, but by this time the wires and stakes will have become so interwoven with the branches that the footing of the former is of no consequence. The same plan is applica- ble to any deciduous plants that may be lacking in thorny qualities. Deciduous Hedges. Of strong-g rowing hedge trees, which, without any pruning or crowding will in time form trees, may be mentioned the Honey Locust, Ole- ditchia triacanthos; Osage Orange, Mac- While these as a class are neither as handsome or tractable as the shrubby kinds to be mentioned further on, they possess because of their stronger growth some advantages where a formidable bar- rier is needed. In the culture of strong hedges mistakes are often made by not giving the plants the required attention in the first year's growth for providing a good basis for a close, per- manent line. The soil for a hedge should be in a good condition for raising any ci'op. The plants should for a number of years be cul- tivated as one would care for a row of pota- toes or corn. In planting, good plants should be chosen, and if these vary in size, they should be sorted to bring those of the same strength together. Plant in a single row at one foot or a little less apart, first pruning the tops back to about two inches above the collar. General directions for further pruning might thus be stated: Cut back the plants at one year from planting to within si.x inches of the last year's place of cutting, and tlie second spring cut again to about nine or twelve inches from the for- mer cut. After this if the growth be good the hedge may be allowed to advance from si.x to twelve inches a year, until it reaches the desired height. Some growers of the Honey Locust allow the plants to grow two years before prun- ing, then cutting down to within three inches of the ground. This causes numer- ous shoots to start up below the cut with the effect of making a well formed and in a degree complete barrier shortly afterwards. A course of treatment which has been adopted largely in the Western States, with the Osage Orange and some others for early forming a strong hedge is Illustrated in Figure 33. The trees are allowed to grow upright for a few years, removing a part of the side branches to cause a strong, upright growth. They are then cut half off at the surface of the earth, with the exception of some trees, to be about four or five feet apart. The cut trees are bent at an angle of near thirty degrees, being here interwoven with and tied to the upright ones, to form a straight line. The row is then evenly trimmed off at the top at a height of about three feet from the ground. Directly upon this treatment, which should be done in early spring, many new shoots start up fi-om the stumps and sides to the forming of an impenetrable growth. In after years the tops are annually cut back to within a few inches of the last place of cutting. Of the deciduous kinds named, the Osage Orange, being a native of Arkansas and Missouri, is less hardy and reliable in the North than the others. The Honey I^ocust is perfectly hardy, but without regular pruning is liable to assume a coarse appear- ance. The Buckthorn, while it has the ad- vantages of hardiness, easy propagation by seed, an abundance of fine roots, permitting transplanting with hardly a chance of loss, and has a naturally thick and hedgy growth, still the growth, unless it be in rich land, is not such as to make as formidable a barrier as either of the others named. But by em- ploying the method illustrated by Figure 32 this ob.iection may in the main be overcome. Shrub Hedge.s. It is in the line of shrub- by plants in which is to be found the best material lor the small, ornamental decidu- ous hedges that would most often be found desirable about gardens. In this class we would place the various Privets, Lidustiim; several of the Barberries, Ber- hcris:, Japan Quince, Pyrns {.tyn. Cydonia) Japonica; Thorns, Crattegufi; Weigelias, Mock Oranges, Philadephus; Spireas, Deutzias, and other vigorous, dense-grow- ing flowering shrubs. Some Evergreens might be brought into this same class as to size, namely the Box, Malionia, dwarf Spruces, Firs, Arbor Vita's, and Pines. The management of the shrub hedges is even more simple than that of the stronger growing sorts before mentioned, for the rea- son that their nat- l »wn_ ural growth is close and hedge- like. Among those named the Privet has the advantage of bearing the shears better, hence is more eas- ily shaped into any desired form pjg, 36. silt basin cmmcc than the others. Hon between road gutter Most of the latter, "'"* *™"'- however, are so tractable and so handsome both in foliage and flowers, that their use should become very general. Pruning. As to form, it should be un- derstood that some shapes are better than others. In Figure 34 are shown several cross sections of hedges, of which n and h are the best, because they most nearly approach the natural style of growth. Were these forms more rounded at the top no great ob- jection could be raised, while for the sake of variety such might be desirable. The ad- vantage of the forms which are broad at the base, as compared with that of C, is that the sun and light can reach and penetrate all parts of the former about equally, with im- portant benefit to health and vigor. The time of pruning a hedge has its pecu- liar effects on growth. To prune early in the spring, before the buds start, Uniits the growth of the season to the remaining eyes of the shoots, with the effect of inviting a vigorous growth in those, and the earlier forming of a barrier. Pruning the young, tender growth in the summer, on the con- trary, checks or retards the growth. After a hedge has become established, therefore by making the early slimmer season the main pruning time, following it by several successive shearings later on, the work is not only easier done than in hard wood pruning, but the hedge is confined to a more limited degree of growth, just as one SSf^SHJ*^^ Fig. 35. Section of the Telford Ga/rden Road, a large stones, b broken stones, c gra/cel, d gutter. would most desire. In the flowering kinds the first summer pruning may follow closely upon the season's crop of bloom. But under any circumstances some cutting back with the knife, in order to admit air and light the more freely back of the sur- face, is a good practice to pursue. 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. WALKS AND DRIVES. In gardens which possess dry and grav- elly soils, a carriage-way consisting of the natural soil will answer very well. Or in case the soil is a kind that inclines to mud, it may be covered with some inches in depth of gravel for making a firm and agi-eeable surface. The matter of walks is also, for the average garden, a more simple one than some hooks would lead us to sup- pose. Provided the land is in that thor- oughly drained state which .shonld mark every good garden, the making of ordinary walks may he rednced to the simple idea suggested above concerning carriage-drives. A few inches in depth of fine gravel that will by rolling combine into a firm body, and with the surface at the sides about an inch below the line of the lawn, and the center slightly rounded over, and about every requirement of a good ordinary garden walk is pro- vided. But that a more thoroughly made walk or drive would, cost aside, possess advantages over the cheaper one suggested no one would think of denying, hence some attention will be given to the making of the latter. What is knoNvn as the Telford road, a cross-section of which is partially repre- sented in Fig. 3.5, is undoubtedly the best style of garden road or walk that can be made, and with variations is suited to almost every ease of ror.d making. Beginning with an excava- tion of earth from one to two feet below the ordinary surface, the lowest layer of road material, consisting of good sized stones, is first brought into place. This in the figure is showTi at a. To insure no irregularity in the roadway from later settling, the stones should be set regularly together much as in street paving. On these large stones is to be brought a heavy layer of stones (h in the engraving), Ijroken to the aver- age size of hen's eggs, spreading these for presenting rather an uneven sur- face. Upon this layer is to come an upper and finishing coat of fine gravel, (f), which by heavy rolling should be reduced to a firm body and smooth surface. The edge of the walk or drive against the grass should be defined by a line of coping stones, and next to this on each side there should be a gutter, as shown at d. This gutter should not be faced with gravel after,;the manner of the regular surface, but should be paved with stone to prevent wash- ing out by heavy rains. In grounds that are properly drained there is little need of providing special un- derdrains to walks and drives. Whenever these may seem necessary they are readily provided by laying one or two lines of about four inch tile in the bottom of the excava- tion before the stones are filled in, making connections at suitable points with the drain system of the place. The matter of surface drainage, for the escape of the water that accumulates and flows in the gutters, is rather important in walks and drives of every character. Such water should be disposed of by constructing silt basin connections with the underdrains of the place here and there at the lowest places on the line of the gutters for effect- ing its escape. The cross section of a silt basin in position, and with proper drain connections, is shown in Fig. 3(). A square or circular brick-lined basin about a foot and one-half across and three feet deep is built under the gutter, with a movable iron grate at the top. This is tapped Ijy a drain about half way down its side. In the space below the water Une the silt may accumu- late without danger of clogging the drain, and by occasionally lifting the grate this can without difficulty be scooped out. In some cases stone, asphaltum or plank, would be i)referred to gravel notwithstand- ing their greater expense. As these are us- ually i)ut down by those regularly in the trade of supplying them, no directions for this purpose will here be needed. ( I'll br continued. ) Abutilons for Winter Flowering. Among flowering pot plants there are per- haps none which for ease of culture and profuseness of bloom over a long season excel the Abutilons or Indian Mallows. Then their distinctness from the general run of winter flowering plants, both as to ap- GROUP OF ABUTILON FLOWERS. pearance of the large leaves and the droop- ing flowers of various colors, is another point in their favor. Their value in the window garden no less than in the summer garden is also widely recognized. The plants of the Abutilon grow rapidly, and having a largely developed root system, require frequent shifting into larger pots to induce a continuous growth, for it must be constantly borne in mind that flowers are only produced by plants in an active state of growth. A good rich soil is also an essen- tial to the ijest results, and the assistance of manure-water to the growing plants is at times desirable. A temperature of .50 to .5.5 degrees is the most suitable one for the plants and these should be kept as near the glass as possible, to keep the foliage healthy and the plants from being drawn. In the matter of training, some cultivators prefer plants confined to a single stem, and the neat cylindi'ical outline of plants grown in that manner is not devoid of attractive- ness. They are well suited for table decora- tion In that form, and, although there is never a profusion of flowers at any one time, the succession produced constitutes a special redeeming feature of this deficiency. Some of the more free pendulous kinds are specially adapted as pillar and roof plants in the greenhouse, under which condition the gracefuUy-drooping bells show to the best possible advantage. Many years ago we remember the old A. striatum trained along the roof of a conservatoi-y, where it was always much admired and was seldom out of bloom, and now that there are so many hybrids of much improvetl character, there ought to be no lack of varieties suit- able for such purposes. The well-known white kind, Eoule de Neige, as a pillar plant, unfortunately is a lit- tle stiff, but is admiraVjly adapted for cover- ing a trellis or wall. When grown in this way it requires anniuil pruning in, so as to get plenty of fresh, young breastwood, on which the blooms are formed; but the first thing of all is to get it to flU its allotted space, by encouraging the leading shoots to reach the trellis before being stopped, when by nip- ping out the buds they soon break and fur- nish the bare parts below. A. vexiUarium is one of the best with which we are acquainted for training up under a girder or roof, where if the house it is in happens to be a little warm it will flower the whole year through. If bushy plants are considered most desirable, they should be pinched back several times as soon as they have taken to the soil and I'ecommenced growing after their transference fi-om the cut- ting pots. Of course, under such a system of treatment, they will require to be rooted earlier for winter flower- ing than where they are allowed to run up unchecked, and may be treated accordingly. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 419. Currant Worm Remedy. I know of U()thinj? better than hellebore. Are you certain tbat it iojured the leaves? It should be upi'lietl whik* the worms are yet small, and thfu there will be no occasion for using it in such quantities as to destroy the foli- age.-C. E. P. 420, 4.'i8. Moon Flower. I think that Ipo- mea noctiphlton is a perennial plant. At any rate it can be treated a:3 one. Trim back, lift and repot carefully, and winter in an average temiieratin'e of .55 defrrees. In pottinj^" use ordinary ]n>ttiny: sitil, ii jiot prn- portiniiutc to the .size of the plant, and water caretiilly until growth uonimcnies. Place the plant in a light, sunny situation and use it iis a climbing vine for the green- house or window garden.— C. E. P. [See also Peter Henderson's article elsewhere in this edition.— Ed.] 417. Cauliflowers Not Heading. I think that you are cultivating some inferior va- rieties, or else procured cheap seed. Noth- ing can be done to make them head. Auother season tr.v Hendei-son's Early Snowball, Early Erfurt, Thorburu's Nonpareil, and procure the very best seed regardless of cost. Cheap Cauli- flower seed is not worth planting.— C. E. P. 418 Sheldon Pear Cracking. I do not think any thing can be dime to pire vent the cracking of the fruit, but before destroying the tree I would remove the sod, and for a .veai- or two cultivate it as before.— Chas. B. Parnell. 414. Grape Rot. Bagging will prevent it ap- plied iis soon as the berries commence to develop. Mcjsfiuito netting will not answer.— G. E. P. 415. Transplanting Walnuts. Transplant as early in the spring as possible. Don't prune the roots, but trim the tops into shape.— C. E. P. 41H. Grapes in Northeast Iowa, (o.) The l)est time to plant is as early in spring as possible, (ft.) Would recommend Concord, Diana, and for a white variety it would be well to give the Niagara or Pocklington a trial.— C. E. P. 413. Gooseberries and Currants. These are best incresised by cuttings prepared and treated as follows: About the end of October select the strongest and straightest young shoots of the cur- rent season's growth, carefully cut out or rub olf all the buds that you intend to grow below the ground and plant them in a nicely prepared, deep, moderately enriched, shaded border, one on the n;irth side of a fence being preferred. Place them in rows six inches aparf, the cuttings being three inchi-sapart in tlie row. Insert them !is deep as possilile, allowing only three or four inches tt) remain abt)ve the surface of the ground. Press tlie s..il \ery flrmly about the cuttings, and protect dLUiug the winter with e\'ergreen brandies. Tlii' next season keep them clean and from weeds, and the ensuing spring they can he i-omoved to whei-e it is intended they should re- main.—Chas. E. Pahnell, Queens, L. I. 437. Keeping Grape Seed. Mix with dry sand and place in a dry, co3 to 1860 inclusive. Boses from Seed: Blooms the First Year. Mr. F. W. Washington, of Rutherford Co.. Tenn., not having seen anything on this subject in our columns, kindly favors us with his experience, as follows: "I placed the seed in a cloth bag, burying it six inches deep, last November. Ex- amining the seeds in February, I found them sprouted. I then took them from the bags and planted them in cold frames, and here they came up in two days. The plantlets were transplanted to the open ground about April 1st, setting them in rows three feet apart, the plants one foot apart in the row. During the season they have made a fine growth of from one to three feet in height, and about half have bloomed, some very profusely, one with as many as 25 blooms at one time. They have passed through the most severe drought we have ever had in Tennessee without watering, and they are now looking well and some are stiU in bloom. I send this because aU the books say they will not bloom the first year." Narcissus is an admirable bulb for forcing and is remarkable for flowering better the second year it is forced than the first, so that they should not be thrown away after the first flower- ing. The Paper White is the best variety for the purpose, in beauty and fragrance vieing with the choicest of flowers. Narcissus can be forced like Hyacinths, and by planting the choicer kinds in a warm border they flower later than the forced ones, giving a succession. Narcissus flowers of all sorts have the good quality of last- ing long in water. Cut spikes will remain fresh a fortnight and longer. It is best to cut flower spikes as soon as the flrst buds gain full size. They bear packing better then than when fully Tlic Jiihiltc Watering Can. open, and never fail to open in water in success- ion, as well or better than on the plants. N. bi- fiorus, bearing two white flowers on a scape ; N. poeticus, and N. gracilis are favorites no collec- tion should be without. N. incompaiabUis ivith its white flowers three inches across is fine for flower work or decoration in pots. Several of the white starry varieties compare with Bucharis and Gardenia in bouquets.— S««on Powers. The Siberian Squill. One of the minute gems among spring flowering bulbs that should be set in the fall is the subject of this sketch, and of which an engraving is annexed. It is known bo- tanlcally as SciUa Siberica. Its flowers are among the earliest of the spring, and they ai-e so beau- tiful, and withal come on under such easy treat- ment, that no rock-work or garden should be considered complete if they are missing. Their season is that of the Crocus, but the flowers ai'C far more lasting than those of the flower named. What gives them a special charm is a striking and peculiar shade of porcelain blue which dis- tinguishes them from the other species. It is quite hardy, and also succeeds well in pot cult- 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. II ure. Its choice of soil is one that is I'ather sandy and well drained. It may tx; used with good ef- fect ad an cdjring to beds of spring flowers. Bulbs of it that ha\'e been used for forcing should never be thrown awaj', for if they are allowed to fully develop their leaves and go to rest in a pit or frame, and later are planted in the garden, they wiU thrive well. It ig better not to disturb the tufts in ordinary culture, except every two orthree years, for di\iding them. Pinks: The Douhle Lychnis Viscaria. Among our hardy plants what can surpa.ss the exquisite fragrance of the hardy garden Pinks? The old white Fim- biiata, known in the catalogues as AIha fimhriata, is still a good plant, and happily the occu- pant of nearly every garden. Not a very great remove from the Pinks are the Lychnises, although botanically distinct. Of these the double Lychnis Viscaria, Lychnis visctn^n sfAendeiis plena^ is one of those choice border plants which Tui„ alazicr Point.. 'f^'""^'^ ^""^ "^ '^J'*^* ni many gardens where it is not now found. The color is a rich magenta, and stands almost, if not quite, alone in this respect. It will grow in almost any situa- tion or soil, possesses the sterUng qualities of free flowering, perfect hardiness, with easy means of propagation, viz., by diriding the root- stock. Those unacquainted with it I would ask to imagine a tufted cushion of leaves similar to some Thrifts, from which issue numerous flower stems to a height of 18 inches, closely packed with bright magenta flowers, very useful for cutting. Its extreme beauty is in the embellish- ments of the hardy plant border or rock garden, where the flowers retain to the last that brilliant hue of color which renders it so conspicuous at this time. Planted in patches, it has a most ef- fective appearance. It is to be had of aU the moi-e extensive dealers in hardy plants for about ffi cents per plant.— vl. H. E. Why Winter the Colens t It may not be gen- erally known that one may do away with all the fuss and worry of keeping over these plants where a sufliciently high heat^and they need high heat— is not possessed, by annually growing the plants required for summer from seed. Seed that is saved from one's own plants or such as is purchased, and treating similar to that of Balsams and other heat loring plants, may readily be grown into attractive stock. We usu- ally sow in February or March, in pots or shallow boxes of light sandy soil, setting them in a hot- bed or warm house. After the seedlings are fairly under way we treat them just as we do plants propagated from cuttings. The plants being rapid growei-s under close glass in the spring, develop to a useful size by June. We have raised from a single package of purchased seed, seedlings of nearly every type of Coleuses now popular, besides some pretty intermediate coloi-s. One may always find an interest in grow- ing seedlings of any kind, looking U) some im- proved sort over those now possessed, and the fact tliat the Coleus is so variable and eccentric in the colors of its leaves is the greater induce- ment for trying one's hand here. Even if no special degree of success is met there is no reason why this practice of getting up a stock of such useful decorative plants should not be more gen- erally adopted by araateure than it is, as even where there is limited space under glass this space is always needed in winter. " The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening, a practical Encyclopa>dia of Horticulture." This is the name of one of the most comprehensive works undertaken in recent years with a view to treating the subject of practical horticulture and botany exhausti\ely from a popular stand- point. The fact that such a competent author- ity—practical as well as scientiflc— as Mr. George Nicholson, Curator of the Koyal Botanic Gar- dens, Kew, England, should be its editor will at once be received by the horticultural world as a sufliciently high endorsement of its great merits. This gentleman, as was naturally expected in any work of such a character he would undertake, called to his assistance the most eminent cultiva- tors and botanists of England, with the re.sult that able men like Sir Joseph Hooker, Prof. W. H. Trail, Dr. M. T. McMasters, editor of the Gardener's Chronicle, London, Rev. Percy W. Myles, William Batting, James Voitch, Peter Bair, and other well-known authorities, were in- cluded among its leading cimtributors. The work when completed will embrace seven volumes of upwards of 250 pages each, with more than 2,000 engravings, and numerous colored plates, exe- cuted in the highest style of the printing art. All these volumes but the last one, and bringing the alphabetical classification to S C L, have been issued and received at this office. The aim of its projectoi-s was to make it an encyclopae- dia of practical information and botanical classi- flcation, brought down to present date, and the standard work on English horticulture in all its branches, from the growing of the hardiest plants to cultivation of tender exotics. The sub- ject of insects and diseases receives a full share of attention. While this dictionary was prepared from an English standpoint, it will be found to possess a value for Americans second t-o no other work now before the public. Arrangements for its sale in America have been made by its pub- lishers in London through their representative, Mr. James Penman, whose address in this country is 129 West Newton Street, Boston. It is most gratifying to us to learn that the work is already meeting with a good demand in this co\intry. Onr Jonrnal's New Dress. The new and third volume of Popular Gardening and i'Rtnr Growing starts off m a bran new dress of copper- faced type throughout. The style of the type is also somewhat changed from the old, a step un- dertaken with a \iew to giving the same amount of matter per page as before, that is, using the same tjixly of type but with the /act' somewhat larger, hence easier to read. It may be said that about the only complaint ever heard against this journal, and that from aged people, has been the smallness of much of the type used, and this we have aimed to remedy. To show plainly that the enlarged face adopted is not at the expense of printing less matter, it is only necessary to count the lines per column in last month's paper and those of the same grade in this to observe that they are precisely the same. Indeed more matter is printed in the entire paper than before, through making several other changes. For one thing the first two or three pages of each number have heretofore appeared in brerier type, a size con- siderably larger than the main body which is minion. But inasmuch as a stronger face of the minion was chosen, it has been decided to sub- stitute the regular minion for this brevier henceforth, thus giving considerably more mat> ter in these pages. Again a smaller sized type has been adopted in which to print the Inqui- ries; with some gain of space here and certain heads of departments have been considerably re- duced in size with the same result. Altogether we are sure these changes will be voted as being- most favorable ones, and we trust that the f)utlay involved on this account wiU be accepted as but another sign of our strong desire to still further improve this the people's horticultural journal. blomatic of eternity. This is weighed down to the platform, while the other scale, high in the air, is filled with bright Bowers, suggestive of earthly joys and honoi-s. Made finely it is ex- tremely handsome, and may be infinitely varied. Another design by the same maker is a varia- tion of the broken link. A handsome cushion is made, on which lies a chain composed of several links, one of them being wrenched apart. The entire links are made of colored flowers, but draped with black ribbon; the broken link is composed of white flowers, with a mingling of Forget>me-nots, and a draping of white ribbon. Ribbon is apt to be used rather too much; it is sometimes offered as an excuse for poor flowers, and always has rather a millinery look. We are promised a large show next month, gotten up entirely by a single florist. It is to be novel in every sense of the word; the originator intends to turn a large hall into a mimic forest, and will treat us to a lot of new designs in cut flowers. October is not a very good month for a flower show; Chrysanthemums are not really in, and almost everything else is out, so it will re- quire a little ingenuity to make it a success. At this season wild flow-el's are again coming in, to the grower's disgust. Golden Kod and As- ters produce very showy effects when massed in vases or banked in corners. Autumn leaves, too, will he used to a certain extent; last year the decorations at some of the prettiest country weddings were of autumn leaves and wild flowers; they were both elaborate and showy. It is probable that Carnations will be more used this winter; a larger niunber of them are being grown. With long stems and their own foliage, they make the most appropriate coi-sjige bunch for street wear; they are more suitable to walk- ing toilets than Roses. In all designs or floral decorations the ten- dency is still to avoid the mixture of many sorts of flowei-s in one piece. It is apt to give an in- congruous effect, like the combinations on a London dinner table, consisting of Primroses, Pink Azaleas, White Rhododendrons, Pelargo- niums, and White Wood Anemones. The dinner-giving season has not commenced yet, but the prevailing effect will doubtless be one of choice sirapUcity. Colored centre-cloths are becoming rather old-fashioned, and there is a tendency to banish excess of plate and the elab- orate dessert which has formed part of thedecor- atither, West Virginia; James M. Smith, Wisconsin; John W. Hoyt, Wyoming. Secretary, C. W. Garfield, Grand Rapids, Mich.; i887. POPULAR GARDENING. 13 Treasurer, B. G. Smith, Boston, Mass. Executive Committee, Franklin Davis, Virfnnia; J. E. Miteh- ell, Pennsylvania; J. H. Masters, Nebraska: C. W. Garfield, Michigan. The meetings were held in the rooms of the Mechanic's Institute, and this was also the place of the exhibition. In the line of exhibits the entries were altogether very extensive, the special prizes offered by the Massachusetts So- ciety ser\ing to draw out a graml show. Our space does not jiermit of giving an entire list of entries, but mention may be made of some of the more conspicuous ones. For the best general display of fruits of all kinds a prize of $26 wsis given to the Lincoln Grange, of Massachusetts. The T. S. Hubbard Co., of Fredonia, showed 18.5 varieties of native Grapes, this being the largest exhibit of such ever brought together. This exhibit drew the lii-st prize as the best col- lection of natives. The second prize was received by E. Williams, Mount Clair, New Jersey, who showed -H \arieties, and the third by Warren Fcnno. For a Hue display of Eaton and Howe Grapes, John B. Moore & Son, Concord, Mass., received a silver medal. D. S. Marvin, the progressive hybridizer and Grape grower, of Watertown, N. Y., showed nine new \arietics, among which, raised as they have iK^en at the fai- North, it is safe to assume there are some which will make theii- mark. Mr. A. J. Caywood, Marlboro, N. Y., made an interesting exhibit of new varieties, including a fruiting vine of the Ulster four yeai-s old, and bearing 38 well developed clusters of fruit. His " Black Delaware," with its handsome, compact cluster, tine bloom and exquisite sweetness, drew many favorable comments from visitors. In hot house varieties Mr. David Allan, gar- dener, to R. M. Pratt, Esq., of Boston, showed some striking specimens, which received premi- ums. His handsomest and best ripened first prize specimen consisted of a cluster of Black Alicante, weighing five pounds six ounces. The prize for the best two bunches of Black Hamburgs also went to him, the weight of the clusters being re- spectively 8 jiounds 4 ounces and .5 pounds. The special and general displays of Apples were fine, the exhibit by the State of Arkansas receiv- ing for general display the fii-staward, that of the Worcester Grange the second, and C. C. Shaw the third. We greatly regret lacking space to go into details concerning the many creditable ex- hibits in this department. Among newer or less kn(jwn varieties that attracted much notice were the Barne's Striped, by Simon E. King, Worcester, Mass., and the Wolf River Apple, by A. L. Hatch, of Ithica, Wis. The best collection of Pears was the 130 varie- ties of EUwanger & Barry, Rochester, N. Y.; the second that of C. H. Hovey, of Cambridge, Mass., consisting of 118 varieties, and the third Warren Fenno's, of Revere, Mass. A specisU prize was offered to Mr. F. R. Shattuck for Bartlett Pears from the first tree grown in this country, the same ha\1ng been jiroduced on the farm of the late Enoch Bartlett, Roxbiuy, Mass. In Peaches the best general collection wjxs that of C. G. Smith; second. Smith & Keman; thiid, David L. Fiske. But few Plums were shown. Among the newer and specially interesting varieties of fruits shown besides those mentioned were the following: A plant of the Jes.sie Straw- berry, at present in fruit, by Chas. A. Green, Rochester, N. Y. Green Mountain Grape, by Stephen Hoyt & Sons, New Canaan, Conn., a white \ariety.saidtobea week earlier than Hart- ford. Four new varieties of Graixjs not yet named, by Jacob Moore, Attica, N. Y. The North- ern Light, a large white % ariety that oiiginated on the Ottawa River, Ont., T. S. Hubbard, Fre- donia, N. Y. Japan Persimmons, Lemons, etc., by several Florida growers. Apples and Peai-s, C. R. H. Starr, Port Williams, No^^a Scotia. Col- lection of Apples grown under Cole's System of New Agriculture, O. P. Rooks, Gardinia, Fla. The exhibits in the line of ornamentjil plants, flowei-sand trees was magnificent in the extreme. Indeed as regards the greenhouse and hot-house plants on the main floor of the exhibition hall, it is questionable whether another city on the con- tinent could command as fine a display as the one of this occasifin, drawn out by the prizes of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. The ar- rangement was also most admirable. The lead- ing prize-takei-s in pot plants were H. H. Hunne- well, William Martin, George A. Nickerson, W.A. Manda, of the Botanic Garden, Mre. F. B. Hayes, John L. Gardner, Thomas Clark, C. H. Hovey and Thomas W. Dee. Some fine groujjs of hardy Evergreen shrubs and herbaceous plants were shown by W. C. Strong of Nonantum Hill, Mr. F. L. Temple, Somerrtlle, Mass., and a general display by J. W. Manning, of the Reading Nurseries. The strong collection received the first Hunnewell jirize for evergTeens and shrubs, that of Mr. Temple the second. In Mr. Strong's exhibit were shown 50 varieties of ornamental deciduous trees and shrubs besides the Evergreens. The Manning col- lection of Evergreens comprised .52 varieties, of which 45 were conifers. This exhibit also em- braced in another section numerous herbaceous perennials,prominent among which were the Dcs- modium pendula, with rich, purple flowers, and Gaillardia aristata, a late summer blooming plant of undoubtedly great value. Mr. Temple, of Somer\Tlle, hsis shown much enterprise in bring- ing out new vaineties of merit. Besides his gen- eral collection he exhibited the new Weeping Lilac, Sui'iiwia Uutaitiiia Pekincnsis pendula, one year from bud, which attracted much attention for its beauty and grace, lilao receiving a flrst- class certificate of merit. He also showed the new Golden Hop-tree, Ptcka trifuUata aurca, a prom- ising lawn tree, and a fine foi-m of the Hardy Double Gaillardia, G. aristata Templeana, a plant that will be sure to attract wide interest. Among the numerous other striking exhibits in hardy and garden shrubs, plants and flowers, may be mentioned a collection of tili species and varieties of fruiting shrubs, by Jackson Dawson, of the Arnold Arboretum. L.W. Goodell, Dwlght, Mass, Asters (iuclnding some promising varieties of his own, notably, Shakespear's Purple Black), Pansies, etc. Edwin Fewkes & Sons, Dahhas, Can- nas, etc. W. A. Manda, Single Dahlias, Succulents, etc. Mrs. P. D. Richards, West Medford, Mass., 60 glasses of native flowers. B. S. HUl, Hyde Park, general collection. J. F. C. Hyde, Hibiscus tiavescens, white with crimson center, and others. Siebrecht & Wadley, New York, a S2,000 Vanda Sanderiana. Mr. John Simkins showed several tanks of Victoria regia and other aquatic plants that attracted the constant attention of visitors. Other matters pertaining to this interesting meeting will appear elsewhere in this issue and in subsequent issues. The next meeting of the society will be held in the State of Florida, the exact time and place being not yet determined. Some Things for Gardeners at the Agricultural Science Meeting. The following topics of Interest were con- sidered at the recent meeting of the Associ- ation for the Promotion of Agricultural Science in New York. About a Destructive Uaggot. Prof. A. J. Cook in a paper on " Economic Entomology " brought out the imixirtant conclusion that the Cabbage, Onion and Radish maggots, heretofecorae troublesome. Plum Curculio on Other Fruits. Additional evidence was given to show that the Plum Cm'- cuUo attacks also the Apple, Pear and Peach when Plums are not to be had; the former might be protected by jilanting Plum trees in the orchards. Some Oeneralizations were advanced by Dr. E. L. Sturtevant !is follows: 1st. Types iif CiMivatecl PUtnts. .Such do nf)t originate in nature, are not produced by cultivation; 3d. Changes Effected hy Cultivation. These can be c.xpressad by the terms expansion, quality, prolificacy and eai'liness or lateness; M. Hi/hrids or Crosses are rarely inter- mediates, but api>roach one parent more than the other; 4th. Hybrids tend to purge themselves of their mixtures; they are rarely found in Nature. Some Valuable Points on CtJtivation. Dr. Sturtevant showed that the chief purpose of cul- tivati<»n was to maintain moisture in the soil by keeping it in condition to derive moisture by capillary attraction from the subsoil lx:Iow. In the growing season more water was evaporated from the soil than was deposited during the same time as rain. Moisture in agriculture is of more importance than fertility. The main question is " How to get the fertility of the soil into the crop." It is useless to fertilize the soil without supplying sufficient moisture to make the fertility available. For this purpose cultivation is usually the only practicable means. Mulching prevents evaporation, but it is less valuable than cultivation, in that it does not, to the same degree, secure a continuous rise of water by capiUary attraction from the subsoil, thus bringing up in solution additional food sup- plies for the plants. An important point brought out in this paper was the fact that weeds do their chief injury, not by extracting fertility, but by causing increased evaporation, thuslessening|the amount of moisture present. Horticulture at the New York State Fair. " Floral HaU," a large tent 130 feet long by 80 feet wide, did not begin to hold all the flowers, fruits and vegetables which pro- gressive New Yorkers sent to their State fair, held at Rochester September 8 to 14. The vegetables, of which there was a large display, were crowded into the adjacent Do- mestic HaU, while more than one exhibitor of fruit and flowers complained at the short- ness or utter lack of space for his entries. The arrangement of the hall was admirable, both for showing the articles exhibited and for general effect. This may be understood by the accompanying ground plan, which shows the location of the different exhibits in one half of the tent, and this was a reiietition of the other half. With pyramids occupying the two central circular parts, consisting of handsome Palms and other hot-house plants towering some 13 feet upwards, and then the flowers, fruits, etc., on the lower stages, it is easUy imagined how hand- some the haU was. For all this much credit is due to the taste and judgment of Mr. Frank H. Vick, who was Superintendent of the Hall. Of course no fruit display at Rochester could be considered complete without an exhibit by Aii-angemcnt of Floral Hall, at the New York State Fair. the well-known nurserymen, EUwanger & Barry. These gentlemen headed the Ust of extensive ex- hibitors in the professional list of this depart- ment, showing of Pears, 105 varieties; of Plums, 15 varieties; Peaches, 18 varieties; Grapes, 62 Na- tive Grapes (including their own promising vari- eties, the Monroe and the Rochester), and 10 F(jreign Grapes, all of which took first prizes. Next in extent in Grapes to the last was the ex- hibit of the H. E. Hooker Co., Rochester, who received second prize for the best general collec- tion. Mr. John Charlton, the well-known gi-ower of new varieties, was present with 28 different Grapes, new and old. He showed the new Nor- folk, styled by some "Early Catawba," it be- luga promising early red variety; and the El Dorado, one of Rickett's seedlings, the fruit of which is white, as large as Niagara and the qual- ity sui>erior. The Niagara Grape, as was to be expected here so near its home, was shown in great profusion. The originators at Lockport had on hand some baskets of remarkably handsome fruit of this variety, but it was left to the Niagara Grape Co., as represented by Dr. H. P. Van Dusen, of New- ark, N. Y., to show that the Niagara can be grown "as cheap as Corn" by any one. What the.v did was to bring an entire vine, four years old, taken from their vineyard, bringing trellis, wires, and all, and which vine showed the sur- prising number of 8« perfect clusters of fruit. Among other exhibitoi-s in the fruit depart- ment the displays of those named below were con- spicuous, most of which took both first and sec- ond premiums in different classes: O. S. Jacques Wright's Corners, N. Y., C. P. Whitney, M. F. Pierson, H. N. Peck, J. Zunbrich, E. Van Allen, H. Glass, Palmer Worden, H. E. Hooker Co., H POPULAR GARDENING. October, H. Hoffman, John Weld, James Craib & Son. Chas. Coolidge, and Howard Bros. In the ornamental department the pyramids of plants already refened to, and which were drawn from the private collection of W. S. KimUxll of Rochester, attracted perhaps the most notice. Such certiiinly was the case if we speak of this gentleman's exhibit as a whole, for this included, additionally to the pyramids, numerous rare and costly Orchids, Asiatic Pitcher Plants and Ac- quatics, which commanded all eyes. This general collection drew the first prize of $30, the second going to J. B. KeUer. Among other extensive exhibitoi-s here was the last named gentleman of Rochester, N. Y., in an exhibit of various pot plants, securing a number of first prizes. Mr. James Vick with a characteiistically large and good show, consisting mainly of seed-grown sum- mer flowei-s, and which, with Asters and Phlox Drummondi in the lead throughout, received numerous fli-st premiums, Saltes Bros., plants and floral designs, taking first prizes, and Schlegel & Sons, with a fine and varied display of pot plants. Still other exhibitors, most of which took both first and second prizes, were the Philadelphia Floral Co., Geo. A. Mathei-s, A. Stone, H. Dempster, Mrs. D. Lyday, Mary Cool- idge, O. S. Jacques and H. Glass. In the Juvenile Department first prizes of $10 each were drawn by Willie Keller for display of cut flowei-s, and by Charles Donnelly for a floral design. In the same classes second and third prizes were secured by Willie Keller and Tillie Warford. The display of vegetables in Domestic Hall was also a very creditable one, that from the New York Experimental Station at Geneva being per- haps the most striking, due in part to numerous rare and curious kinds. James Vick also made a splendid show here, as did also the following par- ties, in a greater or less degree: C. L. G. Blessing, Charles Coolidge, Howard Bros., M. F. Pierson, Chas. N. Tuttle, E. Van Allen, P. C. Van Allen, Jno. O. Reiley, Daniel Peacock, Herman Glass, F. E. Kudman, C. P. Whitney, Aaron BardweU, O. S. Jacques and H. W. Skerrett. Grapes in Illinois. [Reiiurt of September Meeting of the Alton Horti cultural Society.'] Well grown Grapes were shown in great force. Mr. M'Plke made a fine display of the older sorts, such as Catawba, Concord, Ncrrton'ttMniiniajRvJandfr, Delaware, etc. Among newer varieties shown Niagara and Jewell received much praise for their good quality and fine appearance, and it is to be hoped that these promising kinds will fulfill the expectations of growers. J. S. Browne, of Committee on Vineyards, re- ported that the past season has been one of the worst for rot in several years. It started earlier than usual and lasted so that the crop was not more than a third or half of what it was last year. If the Department of Agriculture's knowl- edge of the Downy Mildew iPeronos:pora rificoid) is so complete that they are able to say what amount of sulphate of copper will be required and when to apply, he thinks their remedy against rot is to gi-ow either those vaiieties which do not rot, and they are very late, of poor quaUty, such as Cynthiana, late, or, Marsala, foxy, or to grow a class that are Uttle subject to mildew, one of which is the BrigMon; in this class wQl be found our best quality of Grapes,— using one of the copper remedies as a preventive. Among the newer varieties which have come under his notice he had found none that are Just what we want. Prentvix has rotted almost en- tirely; Montcftiire nearly all gone; Empire State mildews both leaf and bunch; Marxala but very little rot, has a thick skin and not of good quality; Vergennen all gone; the much advertised iViajrara over one half rotten both in the bags and out; Woodruff's ReO badly rotten— drops from the bunch and is very foxy; Early Victor rotted on lower part of vine, but not on upper. This Grape is inclined to overbear. Some buds will have as many as five bunches, and four in common; all should be cut off but two or three; PocMiimton rotted badly and what were left ripened very unevenly- is very foxy; CuiiOiiatia, as usual, free from rot and should be grown by every one for family use. The Jewell, after watching it for the last three years, he had foimd as free from rot as the rot proof Cynthiana— in fia\'or eqUiU to the Delaware, ripe nearly a week before Champion, extremely hai-dy and altogether the most prom- ising early black Grape now on the market and is well worthy of a trial. Mr. M'Pike, speaking from twenty-one years' careful study and experiment, could say that Norton's Viruinia and Cynthiana were the only two varieties of this vicinity that were anything like certain of good crops year after year. All things considered, Concorri is the best to plant until some other Grape has proven better; some, like Goethe, can be grown by laying and covering in winter and bagging to prevent rot. These ten- der Grapes were usually of high quality and wUl repay extra care. Mr. Riehl agreed that Cunthiana and Norton were the only Grapes absolutely hardy, healthy and free from rot, but they were small and late, and early Grapes were the only ones profitable here. Had fruited Jeti'eU three yeare and so fai- had not winter killed and no rot until this year, when the rot commenced unusually early and attacked even Cunthiana and Norton; believed that in any ordinary season it mil be found free from rot, being very early, of the highest quaUty and healthy; believed it wUl prove our most profitable Grape to plant. Had grown the Niagara two years, and con- sidered it the best white Grape we now have; it is hardy, healthy, very good quality, large and handsome, and the only White Grape with him that does not rot as it i-ipens. Is too late for shipping North, but for home use and Southern markets believed it would give good satisfaction. Mr. Riggs reported that \ines-cut down in '85 as bearing a fuU crop of Grapes free from rot. [At a pre\-ious meeting of this Society it was stated that Grapes sacked before the 5th of June remained sound, but all sacked after that date rotted as bad or worse than those not bagged. Usually wc have a much hmger period in which to do the sacking, but this year hot weather and rains came earlier and as a consequence rot com- menced as soon almost sis the Grapes were out of bloom. Moore's Early has again proven a very satisfactory market Grape, being early, large and fairly good in quality, with but Uttle rot. The rot this year was wi irse than last season. The Secretary stated he had read of experi- ments by three different persons in sacking Grapes before blooming and in every case it was stated that the Grapes fertilized well in the sacks, and recommended that next season all the mem- bers having Grapes try the experiment on at least a few bunches of every variety they have, in order that we may leara whether all varieties will fertilize themselves in the sacks, for if so it will be a great gain, giving longer time for the work.] The Retail Florists' Business. {Abstraet of J. M. Jordon's Aihlress before the Cmi- vention of Florists at Chicago in August.] Quality of Work. The question to consider is how best we can continue to increase the demand and have our work receive the highest place of honor. I see but one way; advance the standard and quality of our work and improve the taste. How best cau that be accomplished y First, your place of sale should be as fine as any in town, neat, clean, flowei-s and floral designs displayed to advantage, and, above all, you should be master of your art. Allow customers to sug- gest but not to dictate how to arrange flowei-s. The Matter of Prices, A growing and detri- mental custom among consumers is the habit of asking for bids on room decorations or floral de- signs. I have made it the rule for yeai-s not to give a price, or furnish designs of decorations, unless we had the order to do the work. Pei-sons receiving your designs and prices can submit them to the unskilled for a cheaper bid. When parties want to know the cost, ask them what they want to expend, and if this is not enough to make a good job, decline it. I have frequently told ladies that the amount suggested would not decorate their spacious parlors to har- monize with the beautiful surroundings, and thus have often had them double the amount. Another custom is that of pricing a fine design before it is filled, and then saymg, " I want that filled with so many doUai-s worth," kindly sug- gesting Roses, Lilies of the Valley and Violets, with a few Orchids; when the price is much too low and when informed of it they will often say. " Fill the best you can for the money." These orders decline, unless the price is ample, for no artist can afford to have poor work leave his store, or give one customer more for the money than he would another. Another practice: parties call to see a basket flUed, and after the price is agreed on suggest that a fine large Rose would improve it. Never put it in, but tell them that it would be better to wear, and wrap it up ami give it to them. I have never had the customer make the second sugges- tion after receiving a gift in that way. Helpful Agencies. The newspapers are the florists best friends. We should assist them to give correct descriptions of decorations, hand bouquets carried at the opera, etc., mention all new improvements in fiowei-s and arrangements. By getting photographs of fine work, keeping a short sketch of materials, number of plants, ete., you can easUy give customei-s an idea of decora- tions and cost. Competition should be little encouraged. Fine flowei-s, properly handled, at good prices, are sure to win. Our business should be managed on good business principles. The very perishable nature of the goods we handle should require them to lie a cash commodity. Goods should be as represented. Sometimes we have a larger clip of flowers than the demand would receive, then we distribute the surplus among hospitals, schools, or friends, particularly if we have a cus- tomer who is reported sick. By doing so we soon make a demand that becomes a necessity. Funeral Flowers. Unskilled artists have done much to depreciate the worth of floral ornamen- tation. I venture to assert that there is no city of suflicient importance to give employment to a No. 1 floral artist but what you wiU And other little shops mth signs displayed, " Florist. Cut Flowers Cheap," or to the same import. This class has done much to depreciate the true worth of flowers at funerals, drumming for ordei-s from afllieted friends, and often filling it in a way to disgust the bereaved ones. With this class have no alfiliation. It is my opinion that the request, "Please omit flowei-s," is often made from the fact that at many funerals flowers have not been properly arranged. When we have a large funeral order we send a skilled man to arrange the designs in the rooms, and often furnish a few nice plants free, to complete the decorations. We cannot afford to have flowers excluded from the home of bereavement. When sadness in its most de- pressing form has laid its heavy hand on the home by the loss of a loved one our instincts go out in sympathy, and 1 know of no way we can better lessen the sharp arrow's deepening wound and let in a ray of hope than by arranging about the rooms and casket. Flowers that tell What words cau never speak so well. Their lessons often prove an inspiratiiiu never to be forgotten. The Society— Wholesalers and Setailers- Every floral artist should be a member of the Society of American Florists. Every wholesale grower and commission man in flowei-s should have a list of floral artists (who are worthy the name), and work to encourage them in their ai-t. For to them they must look for their own success. Fluctuations of prices, on certain days, by wholesale dealers, work a great hardship on the retailers; and growei-s will learn that steady prices tend to increase the demand with lasting benefit to themselevs. Give the retailers the benefit of holidays and good prices, for they have to bear the heavy expenses of long summer months, with little to do and low prices. We want more of good summer bloom, something different from the winter flowei-s. Finally, look well to your profession, for it is committed to your hands to give the finishing touch to the ornameutati>in of many homes, decorating them with garlands of Nature's choicest flowei-s. Your work is honorable and should make you better by being associated with flowei-s and the lovers of flowei-s; and you should aspire to identify yourself with the promoters of science, literature and art in all its branches, having a common interest in their good work. The Fruit Industry of North America From an European View. [Abstract of paper by ./. Haerschi before a meeting of the Horticultural Societg of Siritzerlaml. Trans- lated bi/ F. Lionberger, Missouri.] The fruit Industry of North Aiuerica, and of California in particular, is not an old one. Since the last fifty years it has been growing steady and now attains gigantic proportions. As in a great many other ways the Ameri- cans have come to be our teachers, so they 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 15 have ill the organization and promotion of horticultural interests. As to the Product. The climatic coiiditidns of North America in comparison with ours are not ai* Kood for horticulture as with us. The fruits of North Ameiica which can come into competi- tion with (mi's are mostly Ajiplcs, Teaches, and small fruits. The Plum, 1 undei-staud, cannot Ix; succe.ssfull.v raised on account of a certain insect, t'heriies do not seem to increase to an.v extent and are greatly inferior to oui-s in ut with what success I have not yet learned. Fruits for Export. The articles of export to Europe will continue to be Apples and Peaches. The climate of the United States seems to Ix; excellent for these. The Apples are sent here both green and evaporated. Many ai-e sold in Ru.ssia. The evaporated Apples, which are mostly in thin, -white slices, are packed in neat little boxes adorned with fancy etiquetts. These fruit packages on account of their corai>lete- ness ha\'e been successfully introduced in all parts of Europe. The manufacture of Apple cider in th^' United States is also on the increase and it is Ijecoming quite an article of export to En- gland and Eurojie. Culture. As to the methods of culture of the Apple and other fruits in North America, I have been informed that the trees are gi'own in the shape of half standards, and not as standards, as we do. The American fanner is not obliged to use his orchard for the eultivatif^n of other crops, which cer- tainly must influence their trees to a gi-eat extent. Another fact, too, is tliat their fields have not, as with us, been cultivated until exhausted of plant food. Such ground mu.«t be very suitable for fruit culture. What of the Future. I do not think that by the time the fruit culture of America is as old as it is heiv, it will rank as it does now. The soil will finally get exhausted, and whether it can then be kept up with fertilizers as we have to do is a question. Americans have the credit of being the inventors of everything that is practical for helping themselves out of any dilBcult.v; whether he will know how then is very doubtful. J ha\'e been informed that in some sections the average yield is greatly decreasing. The land seems to be getting exhausted. In the methods of agriculture which our farmei's are used to, to j comjtare with those of America, I find a great advantage. Americans wiU see the time when ] they will have to make different calculations I and adopt different methods. They cannot al- ways expect from their fields what they do now. They will then have to invent things which will require more brains than all of their superior machines. As to the different sorts of fruits which are cultivated in America they are mostly seedlings of European fruits. A great many sorts have been imported within the last few years from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Riga Schessien, Austria, ete., etc., mostly to get such as can stand the severe climate of the Northern States. Mr. Seraler, a horticulturist of California, has a great deal t*^) say in his work as to the superior (luality of American fruits over ours, claiming that our best sorts are greatly inferior to theirs. He has a good deal to say about two cider Apples, Harrison and Hyslop, and thinks that they would prove valuable with us. In regard to the best sorts of fruits, my correspondent in Missouri has sent me sciims of all the named soi-ts and they ' ha\'e been received in fine condition. The grafting was successful and as I put them iil'on Ijearing trees hope to fruit them next year, if not this. At present can only say, that they are j rather poor growers. iLPFLTL Information /=■I^o.^1 Various Sources. Fig Culture in Pots Where there is bottom- heat, the Fig is easy to propagate from eyes or cuttings put in in .January or Februarj'. They should be potted iuto (i-iuch pots, which will be quite large enough for the fii"st season to ripen their gi-owth well. For pyi'amids stop the cut- tings at 8 or 9 inches; but for standards do not stop; after the first year train them to a stake, and they will reach about 4 feet. Then, by re- moving the terminal bud the following season a fine standard will result. With brisk heat young trees will carry a small crop of fruit the third year. Those who do not possess a glass house, may also grow one good crop of fruit every sea- son. Fine Figs can be grown in ordinary brick, or wooden pits, I or 5 feet high, if fully exposed FIQ CULTURE IN POTS: OSBORNE'S PROLIFIC. to the sun. The best plan for cold-pit culture is to cfinflne the roots entirely to pots. Re-pot every season before starting into growth; 12-inch pots will be large enough when the toijs are kept restricted to a limited size: root-prune according to the quantity of roots. It is better to remove a portion of the roots than to push them into the pots in masses. Use good, rough clayey loam if possible, adding some lime-rubble, burnt clay, or charcoal, the size of Walnuts. Drain the pots well, placing some Moss over the di-ainage. Start the plants al)out May 1. Give plenty of air, and do not keep them too hot during the day- time; s.yringe, and close up, with sun-heat, as the the crop advances, and feed with liquid manure when the pots get full of roots. After fruiting let the atmosphere be warm and dry to ripen the wood, when the trees may be plunged in a light, dry shed, or be left in the pits, and material be added, so that the pots may be buried tw(j or three inches deep, keeping the roots secure from frost. Good sorts for pot-culture are the Black, Brown, and White Ischia, Dr. Hogg, Negro Largo (very fine black), White Marseilles, and the kind we figure, Osborne's Prolific, one of the very best.— Gardening Illustrated. Hyacinths. We cannot yield the palm to the double varieties ; no true lover of the flower ever does, fur the single present the perfect beauty of color and form. If we cose Prince of Waterloo, Venus,Ciistf)r, Je!ui.y Lind and Uui-hcss de Bedford for the best etfc'ct in snowy, and Jeune Supreme, La Grandeur, Van Speijk for perfect shades of yellow. Give them by all means a dry, free and ri(^h soil. If damp and clayey the winter wetness is retained too near the surface, and the bulbs dnqi ofl' and decay. By a free soil is meant one that is easily worked and thoroughly drained, and richness is also necessaiy.— Harper's Bazaar. Hardy Koses. We find Roses to be gross feed- ers, so, in making permanent beds fully one- third of the soil in which they will naturally extend their roots is of cow manure. Each winter after the ground is frozen, we place around the roots of each bush a large shovelful of coai*se manure; when the ground is settled in the spring, this manure is wtirked in, and, as a result, we have large and beautiful Roses at the regular times of l)loom. There is nothing gained by allowing a Hybrid Perpetual Rose to blossom the first year, as a Gen. Jacque- minot, which did not flower when fii"st set on our grounds, gives much stronger stems of Roses than one which blossijmed the first year. There is no flower easier grown than a Rose; after it is once established, nothing troubles the plant save insect pests, which can be easily eontrverdone as a matter fof expense, not to produce injury to the crop. We desire to allude to the conditions under which light sandy soils need drainage. On a portion of our grounds, of sandy sub- soil, with a surface layer of sand containing vegetable matter, we jilanted Apple and Pear trees. To iUl appearances the soil is dry; but low on the bank of the river water is seen oozing out even in the dryest sea- sons, showing that an orchard on the bank would suffer from wet. We dug drains 4)4 to 5 feet deep, and at these depths found several springs. Thus it is very easy to be deceived about the dryness of the soil. If a sandy soil has goi>d natural drainage the vegetation should be early, and by comparing this with that on similar soils near a fixir conclu- sion with reference to moisture can be drawn. It is a great mistake to sujjpose that excessive rains can be removed too rapidly by drainage. With reference to subsoiling, the difference in the effects of this and draining is one more of degree than of principle, drainage producing subsoiling effects in the most practical and effi- cient manner.— Farmers' Advocate. The Salsify or Vegetable Oyster Crop. This desirable vegetable succeeds liest in a light, rich, sandy loiun, well worked before sowing, and with the same treatment that suits Carrots and Pars- nips. The seed should be sown as early as the ground can be worked and the roots will be ready for marketing the following fall, winter and spring. The winter supply has to be dug and stored before the ground freezes up, although the roots are not injured in the least by freezing, and may, if desired, be left out ft>r early spring digging. In marketing the roots are tied in bunches of twelve each, in»ne but weU shaped roots being used.— Essay tefore the Mass. Horti- cultural Society. The Blackberry from Seed The seeds, like Peach seeds, should be frosted before sprouting. Many years ago I used to i)ut the seeds on the surface of the ground, and place a large, flat stone on them for protection until spring; then, on removing the stone the seeds were nicely sprouted and could be planted wherever wanted to grow. Now I select the berries, put them in a box or basket for a week or more initil they are well ripened or partly rotted or dried up so that the seed can be easily separated, then I sow in a small, shallow box of earth three inches deei». cover shallow with flue earth or sand, then set the box in a shady place, generally in the green- house, give one good watering, which will last a i6 POPULAR GARDENING. October, long time. When cold weather arrives carry the box outside and let it freeze solid for a week or more; then bnng it inside to thaw and the seeds soon come ui> thickly and may later be potted off and ready to transplant in June. — William Parry in Rural New Yorker. Bex Begonias. They endure the changeable temperature of our rooms so well, and are so stately and ornamental in appearance, that no plant window should be without one or two speci- mens. The large, glossy leaves make a splendid contrast with other plants and set off the whole collection. The variety Decasiana is in our esti- mation the best and most beautiful, and the most hardy and easily grown. The leaves grow to an immense size, and are marked with metallic green on a silver}' ground, and lovely shades of purple. Unlike most of the rex varieties, its variegations are along the veins. When the leaves become full grown it casts all other varieties in the shade for beauty. It should be grown in a moist, shady lo- cation, and likes plenty of moisture at the roots and rather large pots. Wash the leaves occasion- ally by showering, not letting the sun shine on them while wet; indeed, the plants do better where they receive only good north light. Large pots, shade and moisture is the secret of growing fine specimens of Re.\ Begonias to astonish the amateur florist. There is nothing in the kingdom of Nature that will equal the Rex Begonia Jules Cretien. The color is a changeable Strawberr.y and crimson, overlaying a bronze-green ground, the whole leaf changing in color as the light strikes it from different points.— Indiana Farmer. Medicinal Qualities of Fruits. Of all fruits the Peach is the most delicious and digestible. There is nothing more palatable, wholesome, and medi- cinal than good ripe Peaches. It is a mis- taken idea that no f r^lit should be eaten at break- fast. In the morning there is an acrid state of the secretions, and nothing is so well calculated to correct this as cooling sub-acid fruits, such as Peaches, Apples, etc. The Apple is one of the best of fruits. Baked or stewed Apples generally agree with the most delicate stomach, and are an excellent medicine in some cases. Green or half- ripe Apples st«wed and sweetened are pleasant, cooling, laxative, far superior in many cases, to salts and oil in fever and other diseases. Raw Apples stewed are better for constipation than pills. Oranges ha\nng the acid alluded to are acceptable to most stomachs, but the juice alone should be taken. The same of Lemons, pome- granates, and all that class. Lemonade is the best drink in fevers, and when thickened with sugar it is better than syrup of squills, and other nause- ants in many cases of cough. Tomatoes act on the liver and bowels, and are safer than blue mass. All the small-seeded fruits, such as Black- berries, Figs, etc., are among the best foods and medicines. The sugar in them is nutritious, the acid is cool and purifying, and the seeds are laxative. We will be much the gainers if we look more to our orchards and gardens for our medicines and less to drug stores. To cure fever, or act on the kidneys, no thing is superior to watermelons, which may with few exceptions be taken in sickness and in health with positive benefit. But the juice should be taken, exclud- ing the pulp; and the melon should be fresh and ripe.— Journal of Health. Improved Asparagus Culture. Mr. Van Sic- len, of Long Island, has made the growing of As- paragus a specialty for twenty years, probably in that time selling more Asparagus in the markets of New York than any other man. His method of growing it is simple, and in some respects new to me. To begin, he sows his seeds in rich, sandy loam in April, in rows one foot apart and two inches in depth, dropping the seeds so that they may be distributed evenly about half an inch apart; the plants are cultivated by hoeing be- tween the rows and keeping them clear of weeds by hand picking. In the spring following he sets his plants, now one year old, which are in his ex- perience preferable to those two years old. His mode of planting differs in setting the roots much wider apart than usual; six feet between the rows and four feet between the plants, making less than two thousand plants to an acre. In prepar- ing the land he merely plows to the depth of a foot or so; his soft, sandy subsoil rendering the subsoil plow not necessary, as in soils less favored. In preparing to plant he turns out a furrow with a double mold-board plow, so that at its deepest part it is nearly twelve inches deep; a good shovelful of thoroughly rotted manure is then placed in the furrow, at distances of four feet, and spread to make a layer of three inches or so; and in this an inch or two of sou, and the Aspar- agus planted on top ^vith its crown six or seven inches below the surface level. The plant is now only covered two or three inches, until it starts, when the furrows are thrown in by the plow so that the whole surface is leveled, which places the crowns six or seven inches under the surface. This would be, perhaps, four inches too deep for heavj' soils. The third year after planting a par- tial crop is taken, although the beds are not con- sidered to be at their best until the sixth or seventh year. Their productiveness may be continued for twenty years by this wide system of planting, recourse being had to manuring freely annually, by digging or plowing it in around the roots before the crop has started to grow, or after it is cut.— "Gardening for Profit." THE CULINARY DEPARTMENT. Corn Pudding.— Grate the Corn from a dozen ears, season with salt, pepper, and a little sugar; add the yolks of four Eggs, two ounces of butter, a quart of new milk; bake in a slow oven; when done beat the whites of Eggs, pour over the top, and brown. Boiling Vegetables —Put them at once into fast boUing water, and bring it to boil again as soon as possible. If left to steep in hot water before boiling they are rendered tough, and the color and flavor are destroyed. So says Popular Science News. Sweet Potato Pie.— Boil the Potatoes till done, peel and strain through a colander. Add milk till it is thin enough, and for every quart of the mixture add three well-beaten eggs, with sugar and seasoning to taste. Line the bottom of pie- plates with dough, fill with the mixture and bake. Peach Cnstard Pie.— Use one crust; peel and halve Peaches and turn the hollow side upward; sweeten as you would a peach pie; take one egg, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful sugar; beat, add milk enough to cover the peaches, and bake. Eat when partly cool. Canned Peaches wiU answer as well as fresh. Peach Tapioca.— Soak some Tapioca over night and in the morning boil until it is perfectly clear, adding more water from time to time as needed; slice five nice Peaches and sprinkle lib- erally with sugar; when you take the Tapioca from the stove, stir the Peaches into it. Eat cold with sugar and cream. Stewed Lettuce.— If the Lettuce is not delicate enough for salad, cut it in pieces and boil it soft in water slightl.v salted; when cooked, drain every drop of water from the leaves. Put some flour with some butter in a pan on the fire, and let it boil. Pour some stock over the Lettuce; let it boil once again, and just before serving pour in a little cream. A little nutmeg is sometimes Uked.— American Cultivator. Bread and Fruit Pudding.— Trim off the crust from a quantity of dry bread and grate the re- maining white pai't of it; add to a pint of it one quart of hot boiled milk, two ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a heaping tablespoonful of mixed ground spice. When cool, whisk into it four well-beaten eggs. Peel and slice a dozen fine Peaches, (or any other fruit vrUl do); add them to the mixture, pour it into a brown bread or deep pudding mould, place it in a pot of hot water and steam three hours. Serve either hot or cold and with an egg or cream sauce, flavored with lemon or vanilla. Canned fruits may also be thus used. Cauliflowers and Tomato Sauce.— One of the prettiest dishes of vegetaliles consists of a Cauli- flower of ivory whiteness resting upon a bed of well-made Tomato sauce. To boil a Cauliflower after it has been trimmed and soaked in salted water for some time, it should be put iu plenty of fast-boiling water, with a due (juantity of salt. Care should be taken not to overboil it. Try the stem with a thin iron skewer, and the moment it is soft remove the saucepan from the fire, and put the Cauliflower to drain on a sieve. When two or more Cauliflowers are used, the.v should be molded into one for serving. To do this, when they are boiled cut off the stalk, and dispose the pieces of Cauliflower head downwards in a basin, press them gently together, turn them out dexterously on a dish, and two or three small Cauliflowers will by this means present the ap- pearance of one large one. Care must be taken to have the basin quite hot, and to operate quickly. This may be applied to Broccoli like- wise. The sauce should be put into the dish and the Cauliflowers laid upon it; but if the molding process has not been successful, or if the Cauli- flowers are not very nice-looking, then pour the sauce over them so as to hide their deformity. PREPARED FROM DIARY NOTES BY CHAS. E. PARNELL, t^UEENS, N. Y. HOUSE PLANTS. Abntilons. Nip back the leading shoots occas- ionally to secure bushy specimens. Achyranthes for winter show require warmth. Pinch back the leading shoots to secure good form. Water ivith care and keep down red spider. Aucubas and other leathery-leaved plants will be the better for a soap wash at intervals. Begonias of the flowering section to be given plenty of light and Uquid manure with blooming. Cuphea platycentra is disposed to flower for some time to come, if kept in a light, sunny situ- ation. Pinch in the leading shoots occasionally. Cyperus alternifolius variegata. In lieu of frequent repotting, give liquid manure. Rather close pot room is favorable to fine appearance. Echeverias. Water sparingly from now on. Epipbyllum truncatum and its varieties should be placed in a light sunny situation if possible. Give liquid manure occasionally. Ferns can be placed in any cool, light window. Water thoroughly at the roots, never overhead. Pteris argyrea, cretica albi lineata, Pserrulata eristala,Nephrolepis exaltata and Lomaria Gibba, are aU superior for a window. Fuchsias. See Plant Culture Under Glass. Hoya Carnosa now requires but little moisture at the roots, but loves heat. Jasminum grandiflorum now blooming freely will be benefited by liquid manure at times. Jerusalem Cherries. See Plants Under Glass. Justica carnea, will produce its spikes of rosy pink flowers more or less all winter if grown in a well drained pot of rich loamy soil. For winter blooming repot and start up now. Nirembergia frutescens and gracilis, If care- full.v lifted and potted before severe frosts, will flower freely for a good while in the window. Oleanders can be wintered in a cool, light cel- lar from now on, if the room is needed. Keep rather dry at the roots. Treat as for Aucubas. Pittosporums same as Aucubas. Bivini humilis from now on will do best in a sunny window. Some liquid manure at times. LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. Aucubas and similar half hardy plants can be taken up, placed in cold pits, where they can be protected somewhat in severe weather. Bulb Planting of the Hyacinth and Tulip class to he finished speedily; not but that it can be done for some time yet, but early planting is better. Caladiums of Bedding Sorts As soon as injured by frost or bad weather to have the leaves re- moved, and then three or four days afterward be carefully lifted, dried, and stored in sand in a dry, cool cellar, or underneath the stage. Cannas. See under Caladiums. Crape Myrtle to be taken up, potted or placed in boxes, and then placed in a dry, cool cellar, and keeping almost dry at the root. Dahlias, Treat as advised for Caladiums, but store in barrels in a dry, frost-proof cellar. See that the tubers are securely labeled. Erythrinas. When injured by frost, cut the plants back to a proper shape, lift carefully, place in bo.xes in a dry frost proof cellar. Euonymus. Treat as directed for Aucubas. Flower Beds and Borders. Let tidiness adorn these by renn^ving the plants as the.v receive in- jury from frost, and neatl.\ leveUng off the sur- face. Herbaceous plants to have the ripened leaves and stalks promptly removed. Have re- gard to proper labeling. Gladiolus. After some sharp frosts take up the bulbs, dry, clean off, place in paper bags and store in a dry, cool situation away from frost. Hardy Herbaceous Plants. Early October is a good season to take up, di\ ide and reset many of these, and Pa'onias (.'spctially. Before replants inu'. let tin- borders or l)cd be properly manin-ed, and worked o\t'r; srting to it in the planting that the siinie kind does liot come to its old siiot. Hydrangeas. Treat like Crape Myrtle. Lemon Verbenas. Treat like Crape Myrtle. 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 17 Mirabilis. Treat the same as Dahlias. Planting. All the hardier shade trees, shrubs. etc., may be set to adxantajrc on drained soil in the autumn, if dont.- huforo November 1st. The work may beg-iu as soon lus the leaves show maturity by tlieir color, while such as pei'sist in hanyring' should be stripped off by hand. Pomegranates. Treat like Crape Myrtle. Tigridias. Treat as ad\ised for Gladiolus. Tuberoses. Can be treated as advised for Gladiolus, but must be placed where they can be given an average temperature of 50 degrees. Vases and Hanging Baskets. To be emptied of their contents, thoroughly washed and dried, and placed under co\'er. Walks. Let them be kept clean, rolled, and with the margins neatly trimmed in autumn. Weeds will require attention to the end, for some sorts thrive amazingly in autumn weather. PLANT CULTURE UNDER CLASS. Ardesia crenulata. To inci-ease the stock, sow the seed as soon as ripened. Azaleas shimld now have a cool, airy place, be carefully watered, with perfect drainage. Bouvardias For free, early bloom give a tem- perature of from 5.') to 60 degrees. Less heat will make tine tl()wei-s, but later. Syringe freely and with active growth give liquid manure weekly. Cacti. With the exception of Epiphyllum truncatum and its varieties, water sparingly, and give a light sunny situation, a temperature of 55 degrees and liquid manure at times. Camellias. The foUage to be kept thoroughly washed with daily syringing. There must be no stint of water at the roots. Cestrums. When they cease blooming store under the gix'enh(mse, or place in cool, dry cellar. Chorozemas and similar hard wooded plants should be placed in a cool part of the house and given water more sparingly. Still when they need water let it be freely applied. Chrysantliemums. Do not crowd the plants. Give liquid manure until the first tiowei-s open, none afterwards. Keep the plants cool, and give air freely. Fumigate occasionally. Cinerarias and Calceolarias- Repot promptly as needed. About the 15th move from the frames to the coolest part of the greenhouse, but where frost cannot possibly touch them. They need liberal supplies of water, and some liquid manure. Keep near the glass; air freely. Climbers, such as Mannettia bicolor, Thunber- gia Harrisii, and the like, to be kept tied up. Use liquid manure for promoting free growth. Cyclamen Persicnm now need a light, sunny pM draughts of air. For spring blooming lift and j lot about the middle of the month, place in cold trame to pro- tect by s-ashes from extremes of cold and wet. Salvias. The old S. splendens, particularly if given a favi^rable situation, free watering, and occasionally liquid manure, will do their thare 1 to brighten the plant houses for some time yet. I FRUIT GARDEN ANDORCHARD. Apples. Winter Apples should be left on the trees initil freezing weather is expected, then hand pick carefully and place in clean barrels. Store in a dry, cool room where air can be Ireely given, Keei> all imperfect fruit from the sound. Blackberries, Raspberries, Cun'ants and (Jooseberries should not be deeply cultivated now, but if any weeds make their appearance cut them out with a sharp hoe. Budded Trees must be looked over, as they are apt to be jiirdled by the matting of budding. Cuttings of Currants, Gooseben-ies, (i rapes and Quinces may be put in as soon as the wood is ripe. Let them be five or six inches in length, and place in rows about two feet apart, the cut- ting's being two inches apart in the row. Keep the top eye even with the surface. Fall Planting. While fall planting is not to be rpc(»mmendcd for Strawberry ]>lants on a large scale at the \(.rih, the sett'ing of firapes, Haspbrrries. Bhu-kberries. ( 'urraiits, and all tret^s but stone fruit kinds may be urged on drained land in the fall, banking up with a little earth when set, and drawing the bank away in the early spring. Plants and trees thus set in the fall will in the average season make double the growth, and are far more cei-tain to live than when set in the spring. Grapes. Gather when well ripened and only when dry, carefully removing all decayed and imperfect berries. The thin skinned varieties will not keep long and should be disposed of as soon as possible. The varieties with thick skins should be packed in small boxes and stored in a dry, cool room. Pears. Winter Pears should be treated as ad- \ised for Apples, but instead of placing them in barrels it is adWsable to use boxes or crates. Strawberry Beds will j'et require attention. Keei) all runnei-s off from beds grown on the stool jilan, and hoe frequently. VEGETABLE GARDEN. Asparagus. About the end of the month clean away growth and dress with manure. Beets- Take up before hard frosts, cut off the leaves an inch from the crown and store in sand in a cool cellar. Do not bruise the roots. Broccoli approaching maturity should be pro- tected from sun and dew by closing the leaves over the heads; also to blanch them better. Cauliflower. See under Broccoli. Celery should now be in its rapid growth, and requires due attention to keep it properly earthed up. In earthini^- keep the soil from the heart or center c)f the plant. The late winter crop will require only to be handled, the blanching taking place In the winter trenches. Chicory, for use as a salad in winter, should be taken up by the end of the month and stored in sand in a dry, cool cellar. Egg Plants and Peppers. The supply of these may be prolonged by carefully lifting and bringing under gla.ss before frosts. Endive. Take up carefully with a ball of earth to each plant, and place close together in cold frames, where they can be blanched as wanted for use. They must be kept dry and given an abundance of air, or rotting will ensue. Neatness should be maintained to the last. As soon as a croji hius been used, gathered, or de- stroyed by frost, let the remaining part be re- moved and the ground deeply iilowed or forked up. This will not only deslrny many weeds (as Chit'kweed, etc.), but more fully ex- pose the earth to the action of the frost and air. Pumpkins and Squashes. Store in a dry, cool situation, but where there is no danger of their being tt inched bj' frost. Bhubarb. Treat as advised for Asparagus. See Vegetables Under Glass. Spinach. The new crop for spring should be kept cultivated and be thinned as required. Sprouts^ Winter or Siberian Kale. Directions for Spinach will apply. Stakes and Poles should be gathered up and placed undercover as soon asthey areout of use. Sweet Potatoes. Dig before heavy frost, han- dle carefully, store in a dry, rather warm place. Tomatoes. Protect some plants by frames and sashes, to obtain fruit for a longer period. Or the vines can be pulled up, laid under sashes, where much of the fruit will ripen. Turnips. Cultivate to ensure rapid gi-owth. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES U N DER GLASS. Figs. After the crop is gathered reduce the sup- ply of moisture both overhead and at the roots. Grapery. The earliest houses are iu a state of rest; keep them as cool and diy as possible. Prune the suecessional houses as soon an the leaves begin to fall. Cli-an off the canes. Clean, n-pairand repaint all wood woric at the earliest opportunity. In the late houses the crop will be about, ripe, and they shtaild he kept dry and cool. Watch the fruit carefully and remove all decaying berries the instant they are nriticed. Guavas. Water well as required. Neglect here may cause the loss of the entire crop. Lettuce. Plants from the August sowings can be set out for the earliest crop. Those raised from the September sowings to be pricked into cold frames in rows an inch each way. Oranges, Lemons and Limes. Keep the trees thoroughly clean with soapy water. Thin out the fruit if necessary. Li(piid manure can be used occasionally with benefit. Parsley for winter use can yet be secured by carefully lifting the plants and placing them in a cold frame. Some boxes can be filled and placed in the greenhouse or kitchen windtjw. Four inches ai>art for the plants will answer. Peaches and Nectarines in cool or slightly heated houses should be given an abundance of air in order to properly ripen off the wood. Trees in tubs to be treated like Figs. Rhubarb. For \vinter forcing lift the roots towards the end of the month and store in frames or cellars until wanted. Strawberries. If notyetdone, repot into 6-inch pots and plunge in coal ashes in an airy place. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. Worms. A writer to the Mirror and Farmer suggests that a tablespoonful of common worm- seed, from the drug store, fed iu the food of ten hens once a day will relieve them both of flesh and intestinal worms. Combs unnaturally dark indicates a congested state of the system, and which can be cured by giving small d« 'S).*s of Epsom salts twice on altern- ate mornings, si taking some gi-ain in the water in which the salts have been dissolved. Either Beans or Peas, which analysis show to be about erpial in nourishing properties cooked, or better, ground and mixed with wheat bran or ground oat.<, and sealded, is a good fooii tor jmul- try. It is a got.d. cheap t.'ti:g food. Thougli liens do not generally aeei-].t of whole beans readily, yet we have seen liieni ted upon them exclusively and they thro\ e and laid reniarkably. Flying the Fence. Some hens, according to the Mirror aiKl Farmer, can fly over a seven-foot fence, and when once begun others are also taught. If a piece of wire be placed on a line with the fence, but six inches inside of the yard, it will prove effectual against flyei-s. A hen at- tempting to fly goes for the top of the fence, and pays no attention to the strand of ^i re, which she strikes and falls back. After striking the wire two or three times she becomes disgusted. The Tax of the Moulting. All fowls shed their feathers annually; iu the case of the growing chick, several times in the fii'st six or eight months of his life. This making of new feathers costs almost as much vital energy as the forma- tion of bone and muscles. This is easily proven by examining a flock of moulting fowls and no- ticing tlu'ir emaeiatetl eonclition. It is more trjing on old fowls than on chicks. They often droop and become really sick before tney are through moulting. Food of a stimulating nature sh(nild be abundantly supplied. Not a great amount of corn but plenty of wheat, oats and mixed food. A libei-al supply of bone or shell meal is good. Plenty (d" shade and a cool roosting place is desirable. 'I'his by the Pi*atical Farmer. To Preserve Eggs in Salt. The prizes so far the past year for preserved eggs have, whenever they have competed, been awarded to those j)re- scrved in salt. The method follows: Use dry, fine salt; place a layer on the bottom of a keg deep enough to set the eggs on the large ends, side by side; then cover with salt, thus alternately putting in a layer of eggs and a layer cd" salt. The salt being dry runs all al)oui tiie eggs, and, if kept in a drv cellar, lowers their tem]iei-ature. When the krg is full, I'ut on the lid tightly. This will keep eggs for six months, wliieh secures them for use an entire winti-r, or carries thi'm tioni a dull to a high market. It is the cheapest and best method, and the eggs are fresh, sweet and as good, fcirall i)urposesbut hatching, as fresh eggs. —Our ('(Kuitry Home. Hints for Autumn. Carelessness in little details ^nll soon sh(»w in the condition and productive- ness of the fowls. Many early pullets are laying now, and most of the moulting fowls have new feathers. Many fanciers, we venture to say, have made no provision for the comfoi-t and maintenance of theii- poultry for the coming winter. This month suggests certain duties that are obligat. Cultivating the Currant. I believe tbat Cur- rants could be grown profltably for market iu this place, and would appreciate any points on theirculture that any reader might give— A. tti T., Yjisilanti, Mich. 453. Plants for Rock Work. We are about starting an outdoor rockery, and apply to you for a list of the best plants.— C. C. R., Wllliamsijort, Pa. 464. Failure with Lilies. I started out to enlarge my collection of this favorite flower considerably a year ago, but have not met with the success aimed for, losing many of the bulbs the past winter. Will you kindly favor me with some hints on their culture out- of-doors; also in pots?— H. A., Lancaster, Pa. 46.5. Pruning Dwarf Pears. What course do you ad- vise as to pruning these?— C. W., Niagara Falls, N. Y. 466. Manuring Rhododendrons. Knowing that these as well as the hardy Azaleas are not the most easy plants to manage, I would like advice as to the method of manuring tiiem in open ground. 467. Pears from Seedling Trees. In how many years may I expect to get fruit from such?— W. A., Xenia, Ohio. 468. Protecting Shrubs, etc. As the season for cov- ering these is near I apply for directions to cover a variety of shrubs and hardy plants set in the spring.- W. W., Onondaga Co., N. Y. 469. Cutting Scions, Which is the better time to cut grafts for spring use, fall or winter?— Tyro. 470. Sweet Peas Failing. I have had no success with this annual early in the season, the buds blighting be- fore they opened. Lately some flowers appeared. How can this be avoided in future?— Laura. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 439. Peas for Canning. In this vicinity Peas are often raised for canning establishments. They are considered a profitable crop at one dollar a bushel, which is the price usually contracted for. The producer has to pay twenty-five cents a bushel for picking and deliver them at the estab- lishment. In addition to this he has to assume all the other expenses, .such as purchasing seed, manure, etc., and the labor connected with the proper cultivation of the crop. Land here rents from ol;:ht t' • t+_-n dollars per acre.— Chas E. Par- NELL, (JU(.CU-'<, L. I. 4:J4. Killing Shrubs. Cut or break off the young sprouts while they are young and growing rapidly.— C. E. P. 434. Wire Worms in Carrots. No remedy can be applied to save the remainder of the crop. In the fall clean off every thing and give the ground a heavy dressing of lime, wood ashes or any con- centrated or commercial fertilizer. Harrow it in thoroughly. This will banish them.— C. E. P. 428. Budding Query. The inner bark should be cut through to the wood.— C. E. P. 411. Rosebuds Blasting. Instead of taking up the plant annually, let it remain outside where it is growing, and protect during the winter if nec- essary. With this treatment the buds wiU not blast.-C. E. P. 412. Clitoria Marianna. This is a perennial and can be propagated by seeds or cuttings.— Chas. E. Parnell, Queem, L. I. 430. Squashes Failing. They were destroyed by the root borer. The following is an excellent preventive: Dissolve an ounce of saltpetre in a gallon of water, and as soon as the young plants appear above the ground thoroughly saturate the hill with this mixture. Kepeat the operation three or four times at intervals of five or six days. If at any time afterwards the vines show indica- tions of wilting treat as advised for young plants. 421. Sea Weeds in Compost. The little salt contained in the sea weed wUl prove beneficial rather than injurious, that is, if used in the pro- portion of one-third sea weed and two-tlurds manure. Before applying let it be weU decayed and thoroughly mixed.— C. E. P. 423. EflFects of Kegrafting. Regi-afting will not change or have any effect or influence on the nature of the Apple.— C. E. P. 442. Warts on Vine Leaves. This is the result of too much moisture at the roots and a too close moist atmosphere. It is too late to apply any remedy now, but if the di-ainage is imperfect it should* be attended to immediately. Another season reduce the supply of moisture inside and give air more freely. C'. E. P. 432. Propagating Clematis. Amateurs can readily increase their stock by layering the half ripened wood. When the wood is in a proper condition place the shoots in any convenient situation, cut them partially through on the upper part and then open a shallow trench and fasten the shouts therein with a short ]ieg, cover or fill up the trench with eartli and place a flat stone over the layer to prevent the soil from dry- ing out. C'over all slightly w^ith evergreen bi-anches during the winter and the next spring take up and replant. C. E. P. 426. Hardy Catalpa for Timber. This tree is proWng profitable for timber culture in many places West, and we see no reason why it should not do so in Northern Ohio. Its chief value lies in its use for posts, railroad ties, etc., for which purposes it is claimed to possess very enduring Dualities. We would, however, suggest that the uture of forestry demands that other specimens of trees be grown as well as the Catalpa, a kind that is altogether being planted very extensively. 431. Currants Losing their Leaves, I think that their leaves became infested with the red spider in such numbers as t^i cause them to drop. My bushes often do the same. Still it does not appear to injure them in the least. C. E. P. 436. Vinegar from Cider. The chief points in the process of "Vinegar making from cider as furnished by a very successful manufacturer are as follows: Cider exposed to the air soon meets with two changes, namely, the operation of the yeast principle causing the first fermentation, by which a little starch is converted into sugar, and almost simultaneously the stronger \'inous fer- mentation and by which the sugar is converted into alcohol, and the soUd matter is precipitated into the bottom or is thrown off from the surface when the cask is full and the bung is open. At this stage it will in a low temperature rest for a month or more, but with a rise of heat the third fermentation begins, by which the alcohol is con- verted into acetic acid the sour principle in vine- gar. This change depends for its rapidity upon ex- posure to the atmosphere, as it is accomplished by the absorption of oxygen from the atmosphere, and is also greatly promoted by the addition of such substances which have alreadj' passed into the acetious state as vinegar itself, or by racking off into old casks that are thoroughly impregnated with acetic acid. Dei>ending upon atmospheric exposure, as this change does, it will be much more rapid if the barrel is kept but half full than if entii-ely full. If, in addition, this amount is stirred \igorously with a stick daily the change will be yet more nastened. By causing it to fall drop by drop to a barrel below, or (for speed) better still, increasing the exposure, to have it filter through shavings or sawdust (Oak or Beach are recommended, but any kind that will not communicate taste will answer), the change is hastened to the highest practical degree. These latter methods are much employed in vinegar factories, but cannot be said to make the best quality of vinegar, as such can be distinguished by a peculiar stinging taste. The very best vine- gar of good '■'"body" and aroma requires more age and the slower processes. The acid fermenta- tion is much more rapid also in a warm than a cold temperature. The only value of the slimy substance called " mother " is found in the acetic acid which it may contain, but this had better be provided in some other way; the makers of the best ^^.negar carefully remove it from the casks. Where on a small scale such equipments as have been referred to cannc>t be well provided, the best that can be done is to rack off the cider when the second or \'inous fermentation is ended, half fill the casks, keep them iu a wai'm place, stir them often, and when good vinegar is produced be sure that some be retained for use in hastening the manufacture of the next crop. 441. Fenstemons from Seed. In raising these plants from seed, the most satisfactory results are obtained by sowing in pans and placing them in a frame, as the seed can then be placed under the conditions most favorable to its germination, and the seedlings be carefully nursed. Fill the pans with a mixture of loam, leaf mold and sand, and sow the seed thinly. When of a suit- able size prick off into boxes filled with good soil, and in these allow them to remain until the spring, when they should be planted in the posi- tions in which they are to remain. If more con- venient you may put the seedlings singly in three- inch pots. The seed pans should have a glass laid over them and the frame be shaded with mats or canvas until the seedUngs are strong enough to bear the exposure. A. H. E. 452. Marvel of Peru. It is easily raised from seed in the spring on a hot-bed, or in a greenhouse along with Balsams, Egg Plants, and simUar things. The roots can be grown in pots the first year and left in them all winter if kept almost dry and safe fronf frost, or outside plants can be lifted and stored like Dahlias. The roots can be planted out in spring in the open ground, but it js safer to start them in growth first. The soil should be deep, friable, and well manured, and the situation sheltered, and the hottest that can be found for them. This plant offered in various colors is misleading. The name of " marvel " is given because it produces flowers of many colors in succession, the intermediate flowers being striped with two svicceeding coloi-s, for instance, when a plant is changing the color of its flowers from crimson to yellow the first flower which shows any yellow will generally be crimson, with a few yellow lines and dots; each succeeding flower vnl\ show more yellow until they come yellow entirely, after which another color wiH immediately begin to appear in dots and lines as before. The number of intermeiiiate flowers between the selfs varies greatly— four is the smallest number I remember noticing. The roots become very large by the end of the second year, and being brittle ai"c difficult to store, and had best be thrown away, starting young plants again from seed. 410. Chrysanthemums Shooting Up. It is best to remove the shoots as soon as they are noticed, until the flowers are all expanded, then they can be permitted to remain.— C. E. P. 375. Small Fruits South. In your answer to this query you leave out, to my mind and experi- ence, the most profitable Strawberry for a warm climate. Whether for home use or shipping, and I have tried a great many varieties, there is none that equals the Jumbo, a stout, hai-dy, vigorous f)lant, free from rust, good vine, a fair size, de- icious flavor. Dr.V. S. MacNider, Jach.-^otu N. C. 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 19 430. Moon Flower. Although I cannot answer the questions lately asked in your eolunins eon- ceminpr tliis plant, and myself desire to know more about it, I take the lit)erty of writing you in ref^ard to one of my own. This has formed (juite a euriosity and some think it far supeinor to the Nittht BloomiuE Cereus as a nijrht flower. Tlie Mowers with us bloom about half past si.\, .iust ulioiit the time we have supper, but ever.v- thiiiB' has t(j wait when the flowers are eominft out and sometimes supper is mueh deferred to watch it bloom. It was planted May ^(ith and bloomed for the tti'st Augrust Ifjth, at wliieh time it had ^rown all over the back of the house. It is now, AuKUSt :Klth. easily 'St hv -Hi I'eet in size. From the Kith to the ->!ith of Aujiiist it has had 13 flowers, each one frtan live to si.\ inelies aeross. I have had many elimbing plants, but never one to jfrow like the Moon Plant. M., BriiuMyti, N.Y. 433. Pruning Pa83ion Flower. If the plant is Krowin^ in a lifJfht, siuin.v situation where it ean be jri\'en sutheient heat and moisture, the flower- ini; shoots may lie eut back and all weak wood remo\'ed. then with amonthorsi.x week's rest the plant niu.\' be started into f^-owth, and another crop of flowei-s obtained. 0. E. P. 4;J7. Stephanotis Culture. Your plant is pass- ing;: into a state of rest, and I am of the opiniftn that you are Ki\'in^ it too mueh water at the roots. When the plant is at restitsh' can lie grown on here until they are large enough to be planted outside. With this treatment, howe\'er, many will not bloom until the second year, and as not man.\' of them are hardy (in this \icinity) the.v should be taken up about the end of* )rtober and placed in cold frames to be wintered mer. C.E.P. 448. Dark Worms in Flower Pots. Reference is had to angle worms, no doubt. These, as well as any other soft skinned kind, ma,v easily be de- stroyed by soaking the soil thoroughly with clear lime water. To prepare the water drop a piece of fresh lime the .size of a fi.st into a bucket of water, and after the solution clears by settling appl.v the clear water. Another kind of worm that sometimes infests tlower pots ma.v be killed, it is said, by appl.ving a solution of mustard water, a teaspoonful of mustard to a pint of water, to soak trie liall. We have heard of a case where the phos]ihorus ends of matches stuck into the soil e.viielled the worms. 4.59. Protection from Babbits. Of various remedies in the shape of washes that have come up for this purpose, it is be- lieved that none equals that of crude petroleum in which a small quantity of Paris green or strychnine has been mi.\ed, l>ainting this on the parts lia- ble to be affected. It has no in,iurious effect on the bark. Petroleunj alone is quit^' safe and usually effective, but for .some I'eason it sometimes fails. A wash of tobacco, qiia.ssia, or soap water answers the same end until removed b.v rain. Linseed oil is often 'recom- mended, but this has been known to harm young trees. The writer recalls a method descrilied in a French .tournal somi- tinir ago for ginii- ling trees against rabbits and which is illustrated herewith. It consists simply of Willow branches a half inch or so in diameter, cut in lengths of two or three feet and with their lower ends thrust in the ground and the uppers fastened by twisting in some small switches. The bark of the Willow is bitter and the rabliits will not touch it, while they cannot get to the tree to gnaw the bark. 4.51. Wintering Plants. Such a room as you describe would be an admirable place for pljint,s during the winter and the young Geraniums shfiuld thrive well here. A house room which thus derives its heat indircctl\'. and of the tem- jieraturc .vou speak of, is preferable to one hav- ing the heat sujiply within it-, walls. If the object, ho\vi'\ er. is merely to keeii o\-cr the plants with the least trouble, imt caring for their beauty in the winter, the cellar would answer well. ' We ha\c no faith in any method of wintering Gera- niums (such as laying them with bare roots on shelves, etc.). aside fi-ora setting the roots com- pactly in earth, |iriiniiig the to|is liack fully one- third at the same time. The soil should be kept fairly moist in wintci', l.»ut not wet. Pfotri'tUm from nabbits. 303. Rings in Wood Indicating Age. Concen- tric or annual rings, which were accept»>d iLs good legal evidence, fail, except where climate, soil, temperature, humidity and all other surround- ings are regular and well balanced. Otherwise they are mere guesswork. Annual measurements of White Elm, Catalpa, Soft Maple, Sycamore, Ootton-wood, (chestnut, Honey Locust, Oak, Wal- nut, Pine, Ki'd Cedar, and Mulberry made in Southeastern Nebraska, show that annual growth is \'ery irregular, sometimes scarcely perceptible and again quite large. As trees increase in age inner rings decrease in size, sometimes almost disappearing. I have found twelve rings in a Black Locust six years old, twenty-one rings in a Shell bark Hickory of twehe years, and only twenty rings in a ( 'liestniit ( lali of tweiity-l'ouV years. An American Chestrnit of onl\' four \'<:-ars had nine rings, while a Peach of eight \ ears had only five rings. Dr. A. M. ('hilds, of .Nebraska, a careful observer for the Smithsonian Institute, who counted rings thing intended for winter liloom must be taken iii hand in spring, so as to get the plants strong b.\' autumn. .3.56. Propagating Double Nasturtiums. The young rather slender growths which have not flowered, and which generally spring from the base of the plants, strike readily in summer and earl.v autumn, inserted in sandy soil, and kept close in a frame. Keep the sou moist, and give a little air for an hour or so in the morning. A.H.E. 445. Double White Feverfew. This is a half- hardy i>erennial, not to be trusted out in the average of seasons, but we have seen it live over. The best place for it is a well protected pit or greenhouse that Is not too damp. We thmk it would winter in the (.■ellar with the same treats ment its Geraniums require, but should prefer gi^^ng it the lightest place here. 44(i. Grubs in Strawberry Land. We have known land that was badly stocked with white grubs to be e*)mplctcly cleared of them b.v turn- ing the soil fiver kio.sely in No\'ember, they freezing to death. With the saltremed.v we have had no experience, but our fears would be that this or any similar dressing strong enough to kill the grubs would be injurious also to plant life. 418. Sheldon Pears Cracking. The disease known as "cracking of the fruit" attacks some sorts more than others, and is more liable txi occur in some localities and on some soils than others. It is generall.v iM'lieved to be caused by a minute fungus. The life history and mode o'f proitagation of this fimgiis arc not known, and no remedy has been found to jireveut its attacks. 449. Managing a Fruit Farm. It certainly was bad business for one who knows "little about fruit culture " to ha\e the responsibility of a large, ycning plantation iilaccd in his hands, with a view to early profltable management. Fruit growing is a trade which caiuiot be mastered to make money without a great deal of schooling; hence, where the advantages of an extended sor- vico on a fruit farm have not been en,ioyed, we have more hope from those who work into it gradually from a small beginning than from those starting off on a large scale lait in ignorance. Then again the fact that yfiur agent was a man not to be depended upon gi\-es the ease even a darker aspect, for what assurance ean there be that the stock is reliable, or the varieties at all adajited for marketing purposes or for your .section. But having begun the enterprise your only way is to make the bi'st of it, and by indus- trious inquiry, obscaviition, n'udiug and work to make uji for the elements of weakness in the ca,se. As for your direct question we would sav, (a) by all means .itiservc clean culture; this may be done through ].lanting tillable crops, provided the in-oiier richiirss of .soil is maintained both for the trees and crops. (W A mulch of stable ma- nure woiilil unquestionably have a good effect on Currants. Illneklieirii's and Quinces, for it would iiroNidc both teitility and moisture and would keep down the weeds, (c) For young trees of one season's growth we prefer pruning in early spring to fall. 4M. Failure with Lilies. As you do not state the characterof the soil in which yourLllIes were grown.lt Is not easy to give yuu a remedy; but should infer that they had been planted where wat CO., AUBtTRfj, N. Y. BIND YOUR PAPERS. We have long felt the need of a first-class ready binder for our own use and for recommending to our readers for preserving this journal. After try- ing about every known one we have decided on two: the Cassidy, shown above, and the^Handy." Our own choice is for the Cassidy, decidedly, but where a cheaper binder is want*^d we know of none equal to the Handy. The Cassidy is simple and durable, the papers being instantly and securely bound by thin spring-steel slats, one by one as they arrive or all at once. The back is rounded over solid wood, giving the appearance of any permanently bound book, whether few or many papers are held. It is thus always attractive for the table or shelf, a thing not to be said of ready binders generally. The price ^ very low, quality considered. Having it made in large numbers expressly for our paper, we are enabled to furnish it to hold a yearly volume, substantially bound in half Russia leather and cloth, with the name of paper on the back, for $1.20 Each, by Mail Postpaid. The "Handy" Binder, same size, costs but 50c. Each, by Mail Postpaid. While excellent and convenient as a binder, and sure to give satisfaction for the price, it is neither as handsome nor as durable as the Cassidy, being half cloth and morocco paper. An Inducement.— To those who desire to order when renewing, we will furnish the Cassidy Binder in connection with a yearly renewal, that is, both postpaid for S3. 00, or the "Handy"" Binder and this journal, both postpaid, for $1.40 a year. No one who has once used a good binder would willingly be without it again. Address, Popular Qakdemino, Buffalo, N. Y. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE BATH DONE HER PART; DO THOU BUT THINE."— Jiivrot). Vol. III. IsTOAT E! 3S4: B E la, 18 87. No. 2. In the Autumn Woods. The busy woodpeckers tattoo the trees.— Quail whir and whistle, ami wild doves call,— In the grasp of squirrels the ripe nuts fall! On the loftiest houghs the jays are shrill, But silvery soft Is the thrush's trill! As his perfect music outpours to-day. He forget-s that summer has slipped away! —IT. n. Baynes. Pansy plant.s are hartly, but they suffer from alternate freezint^ and thawing of the soil in which they are growing. To prevent this cover the surface with a light coat of leaves or straw after the first hard freeze. Anthracite coal ashes should be saved for the land instead of going to the dumping ground. We are satisfied that they are of benefit to any kind of soil, but especially to such as is heavy. A small proportion, say one-tenth, of coal ashes in potting or hot-bed mold we have found a good ingredient. The fait that Hyacinths and bulbs of a sim- ilar class reach such high perfection in Holland, a land constantly swept by moist sea breezes, and well watered, should teach us that free moisture in the atmosphere, and in the soil (wth drain- age), are prime factors to the best cultivation of these favorites. An estimate concerning the Cranberry crop of the country arrived at at the recent convention of American Cranberry Growers at Philadelphia makes the entire crop this year 569,000 bushels. Last year it was 687,000 bushels. The crop of 1885 was very large in Wisconsin and small in New Jersey. In Nova Scotia the product is increasing. Secretary Woodward of the New York State Agi-icultural Society has in view holding twent,v farmers' institutes the coming winter. Last sea- son only a few institutes were held, because there was not money to pay necessary expenses, but such as were held were very successful. An ap- propriation was voted by the legislature last winter, and now the society can proceed without check. The secretary is now issuing circulars requesting farmers in various localities to fix times and places for the meetings. The Onion Crop is said to be short all over the country. In Massachusetts the yield is small. The Connecticut crop is slight; the average yield ou 800 acres is 100 barrels an acre, much below hist spring, and inferior in size and keeping (luality . The Onion-growing towns of New York generally report a small crop, and in Orange county the shortage is serious; the 2,500 acres of Onions will produce some :i50,000 bushels in all, against nearly 600,000 in 1885, which are now sell- ing at %'i per sack of 100 pounds. The New Jer- sey crop is also short. The same story comes from all the West. One of the marked advantages accruing t« the fruit grower, as well as consumer, by the im- proved methods of transporting fresh fruit in these days is the equalization of the crop between districts where fruit has failed and where it has not. Samuel Miller, in the Rural World, says, for instance: " Notwithstanding the failure of the Grape crop in this vicinity. Grapes were never so abundant and cheap as they are this year. Ohio and New York are shipping here quite freely by the car load, and as freight charges in this way are but a mere trifle, the growers can market their crops almost as cheaply in this and other western markets as in the home or local markets. brought in from adjoining counties, conservative buyers think that Niagara County will turn out 500,000 barrels. As for cider making, the largest mill in this part of the State has already used 200,000 bushels, and tons of Apples are being re- ceived in the store-houses daily. Good red fruit brings $2 a barrel; cider Apples 20 cents per cwt. In this connection it may be stated that an ex- periment has been made in Lockport of burning apple-pomace as a fuel with brilliant success. This was done by several large manufacturers with the refuse of the large mill I'cferred to. Pomace being a wood or fibre pulp, when thrown on a coal fire it quickly becomes inflammable and makes a hot fire. The Appi/E Crop of Western New York fruit section is exceeding expectations. A report from Lockport. puts it that, with what fruit is being TJNDOtJBTEDLY the most popular and deserving hardy cUmber of the day is the Japanese Ivy, AfUi^doitsiA VeitchiU also called the Boston Iv3\ because the people of Boston were foremost to duly appreciate its worth. It grows and propa- gates with as much ease as the ordinary Virginia Creeper, save in this respect : that yoiuig vines the first winter, and before the roots have reached well down, are a little tender, and will bear a slight covering over the roots. But we have never seen a vine after its first successful winter injured in the least. It grows with a firm hold on stone, unpainted wood or bark, and its leaves are so dense as to overlap almost like shingles. The foliage is a fine green during the growing season, changing to the richest autumn tints later on. It is so easily propagated from cuttings that no nui-seryman should charge above twenty-flve or fifty cents per root. In view of the frequent references to the Japanese Plums and Persimmons in the rural press it cannot be amiss to caution our readers everywhere, except those of the South, to leave them severely alone as outdoor fruit trees. To our knowledge these trees are being offered by salesmen throughout the North at $1.00 and up- wards each. Whoever buys on the claims of some salesmen will have only chagrin and the loss of money and trouble as a return. It is in- deed questionable whether any genuine stock is at the disposal of the tree agents offering it, but that is a point of slight consequence to many of these men, and orders are constantly being solicited. It seems likely from all accounts that in the Gulf States both of these fruits will prove valuable, and they are known to succeed in Cali- fornia. Here in this latitude they can be recom- mended only for a single purpose : they make nice ornaments when grown in a tub, put in the cellar over winter and set out in the spring. What an Amateur has Observed. That many people plant their gardens too thickly; the rows of vegetables should be wider apart and the plants thinned out in the rows, and the ground between the rows should be kept clean of all weeds. That Celery grows very rapidly after you begin to bank it up. That some people let Pears ripen on the tree. They should be picked before they are mellow; when the Pears will come otf easily without breaking the stem, then is the proper time to pick them. That a garden can be kept looking nicely late in the season if the leaves are raked up; clean up where the early vegetables have been; cut off all old dried flowers, tie and stake up plants that need it: in a word, tidy it all up and keep it so. That an old fence or shed may he made beautiful if covered with Virginia Creeper. That weeds between the bricks in a pave- ment may be killed by pouring boUing water on them; salt added to the water is more effective; if one application does not kill them try another; it's a much easier way than to dig them out with a knife. That Squash do not set near the roots of tlie vine, but away out on the vines; if the end of the vines are nipped out when they are about a yard or so long there will be no Squash to pick in the autumn. That the White Japan Cucumber is supe- rior to the green varieties for slicing and eating raw; it is as easily raised and is as productive as the green varieties. Try it. That sprinkling Currant and Gooseberry bushes with white hellebore (a tablespoonful stirred in a gallon of water, and put on with a watering-pot) whenever the CuiTant worm makes its appearance(two or three times dur- ing the season) will rid the bushes of them. That the love of flowers and the cultiva- tion of them is on the increase among the people. May the good work continue. That women are interesting themselves more in gardening, and even doing consid- erable farming. That Tomatoes are much better if the vines are trained upon a trellis, than if left to ripen on the ground. That Lima Beans do weU on both light and heavy soils. I have raised Dreer's Lima on the sand (not sandy loam) enriched with well rotted manure, and I have raised the King of the Garden Lima on a clayey loam with the same success. E. W. L. Transplanting Evergreen Trees. N. ROBERTSON, SVn. GOVERNMENT GROUNDS, OTTAWA, CANADA. Considerable advice has been given as to the best time to transplant Evergreens, some advocating one time, some another. I have tried all seasons, but am as yet at a stand-still as to which is the best. I would certainly favor September, provided condi- tions were favorable, a moist time and a clouded sky, which generally go together. There are several things that require great care to be successful. In taking up trees the greatest care should be observed not to destroy the fibers by pulling and stripping them through the ground; they are very tender and easily destroyed. Some Evergreens cannot be moved with a ball of earth, owing to the nature of the roots and of the soil in which they grow, and when once taken from the soil no care can be too great to protect them from exposure, even to air, until planted. The roots should at once be wrapped or covered up in some moist substance. In planting be sure your soil is free fi-om all impurities, for above all things, Ever- greens like a clean soil and as near the na- ture of that from which they are taken as possible, and even if this has to be substi- tuted. But let it not be forgotten that moisture is a principle element in successful Evergreen planting. Select a moist time for it if you can. Spring planting I have always found with its drawbacks; you are at once upon dry hot weather, with newly packed soil around the roots, and which is quite liable to dry sooner than when it settles from fall. Winter mulching should not be neglected with pea straw or sawdust until the trees 24 POPULAR GARDENING. November, show signs of having taken to their position. Staking them firmly until the roots have taken a good hold is also important. If in a hedge row, pins can he driven into the ground at the height required on each side and a piece run along the top of them so as to keep them steady and prevent the snow from crushing them down in winter. For large specimens I have adopted a plan that I may say never fails. I dig a trench as far from the tree as is possible to lift and allow them to stand there until the ball is frozen, so that it will lift entire. If the soil is not proper where I am going to put them, I have the holes dug and whatever fresh soil I think I may require put into it, for filling in when planting. In this way it does not require much, as the ball will fill up mostly, unless you make the hole very large. I put the soil into the holes and cover with warm manure to keep out the frost, selecting a mUd day In which to remove them, that the soil may be more easily worked. In moist climates there does not exist the same trouble we have in moving Evergreen trees, a fact which shows plainly that the dry atmosphere has much to do with diffi- culty in transplanting these trees. leaf-stalk, causing the leaf to appear as If slightly peltate. The leaves of the ordinary Sugar Maple are much more lobed, and the lobes terminate in long pro.iections. The leaves of the Black Maple are pubescent or downy beneath and on the petioles, so much so that they feel soft or velvety when passed between the fingers. The books ordinarily describe the leaves of the Black as paler be- neath than those of the Sugar proper. This, LEAVES OF THE BLACK MAPLE. Two Interesting Maples. L. H. BAILEY. AGRICULTCTIAI, COLLEGE, MICHIGAK. Two important maples, the ordinary Sugar Maple, Acer saccharinum, and Its so-called variety, niaruin, appear to be very generally confounded. In Central Michigan these two maples are about equally abundant. Hav- ing observed carefully hundreds of trees as they occur along roadsides, in fields and LEAVES OF THE SUGAR MAPLE The statement should however, is a mistake. rather be reversed. , , . ^t ^ ,. ,, i., I The most singular character of the leaves woods, I cannot escape the feelmg that these „£ ^^^ gj^.k Maple, however, and one of maples are entu-ely distinct species. They ! ^j^^^j^ j ^^^ g„^ „„ ^.^^^^.^l^ j^ the limp or appear to me to be as distinct from each other as the Sugar and Red Maples. No one since the time of Michaux has endeavored to separate them, so far as I know, and even Michaux does not mention certain very marked distinctions, nor does his figure show them. I shall give a brief contrast of the two trees. The leaves of the two are very dissimilar. Those of the Black Maple, as I shall call the Acer nigrum of Michaux, are usually larger than those of the Sugar Maple (usually measuring from six to eight inches across, while those of the latter,.4. saccharinum, Pmit of the S«eor Maple. Fruit of the Black Maple. span fi-om four to five), very much thicker and duller green, the lobes fewer, and the sinuses or angles between the lobes much broader and shallower. The lobes are three, with one or two broad but comparatively Inconspicuous nearly blunt pi-ojections on each side. The sinus or split at the base of the leaf is usually closed, the edges lapping and covering the insertion of the petiole or drooping position of their sides. This is es- pecially conspicuous when the leaves are fully grown. The leaf hangs upon the petiole like a piece of some limp thick cloth. This feature, as well as the charac- teristic lobing, is shown in the cut. The leaves of the Sugar Maple stand out straight upon the petiole, in striking contrast to those of the other species. In fact, so great is the difference in the manner of holding their leaves that I can distinguish the two trees at a glance at a distance of several rods. The leaves of the Black Maple, sometimes at least, bear stipules. This peculiarity is recorded in the American Naturalist for December, 1873, and July, 1873, but it was not supposed that the stipules are a constant character of the plant. I am inclined to be- lieve, however, that they always occur in this species, although I still need the obser- vation of one or two seasons more to deter- mine this point. Mr. C. F. Wheeler, a most reliable observer, states in his catalogue of Michigan plants that the Black Maple is dis- tinguished from the Sugar Maple by "its prominent stipules and downy leaves." The fruit of the two maples is commonly much unlike. The differences are shown in the cuts, that of the Black being much smaller, with more divergent lobes, than that of the Sugar Maple. This great differ- ence Is not constant, however, yet 1 think that I can always distinguish the fruits when in considerable quantity. In growth the two are not alike. Young trees of Acer surcharinuin, when growing in the open field, usually bear their branches more horizontally than do those of the other. For ornamental uses the planter should distinguish these two species. The Black Maple, with its heavy cloth-like leaves, gives a much denser shade than the other, and has a softer and more tranquil aspect, I am not aware that one is superior to the other for economic purposes, although Michaux states that the wood of Acer nigrum is preteiTed for certain industries. Both yield sugar, I cannot leave this subject without en- deavoring to impress upon all who love the farm or rural life in any direction the im- portance of making comparative studies of trees, especially of the native species. By study I mean a close observation as one goes about his work. The good observer never goes to town or through the fields without drawing pleasure and inspiration from the trees, no matter how busy he may be or in how much of a hurry. One soon comes to recognize the trees as Intimate acquaint- ances, and a hasty glance at this species or that, as one passes, is equivalent to a saluta- tion for a friend. If the kinds of trees are so many as to perplex you, single out a few species for especial study during the season. Two very distinct species may appear very much alike to you at first, but the differ- ences \vlll soon begin to unfold themselves and presently you will wonder that you could ever have con- founded them. Even if you are familiar with all the species in your flora, you will find it pleasant to sin- gle out a few for es- pecial study. This is the practice of the writer, and one of his studies this sum- mer has been a com- parison of the two maples contrasted above. Even the best known of our trees are not known enough. The more one studies them the more he finds to admire. The more he admires them the happier he certainly will be. Refrigerator Fruit Houses in Penn- sylvania. JUDGE G. D. STITZEL, CHAniMAN OF COMMITTEE ON FRUIT HOUSES OF PE.VNSYLVANIA HORTICITLTTTRAL SOCIETY. There is no longer any doubt as to the success of Refrigerator Houses, if properly constructed or managed. There are several in operation In the city of Reading, and they are proving profitable both to the own- ers and users. At our last annual meeting a committee was appointed to \asit some of the Reading fruit houses, and submit a report of their observations. I have also visited several during the interim, and have found a great difference in style and methods of construc- tion. Have noticed, however, that small houses are not generally a success. I have examined them costing from ^00 to $10,000, and have drawings of two; one costing $1,000, the other about $7,000, the latter be- ing one of the most complete I have ever seen, and having a capacity of 3,000 barrels. Both of these houses Iseep fruit very nicely. In the construction of fruit houses an Im- portant point Is to build sufficiently strong. Some have overlooked this, and have since been obliged to put in additional supports. Of the two houses referred to, the large drawing annexed represents the house cost- ing $7,000, and having a storage capacity of 3,000 barrels. This was built by Dr. J. W. Funk, of Boyertown, Pa. In this building tlie outside dimensions are 40 by .5.5 feet, the outer wall being two feet thick and laid in cement. Next to this is an air space of 7 Indies, and inside of this a charcoal lining of 4 Inches. The storage room is divided into three apartments, which are entered 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 25 from a vestibule, through which entrance is made from ontside. These doors are al- ways kept carefully closed, so as to i)revent a change of air. Height of lower story, 8 feet; height of building 15 feet; 20 feet .square, which allows for a body of ice 12 feet thick, about (iOO tons. There are no windows in this building ex- cept in front. The ceiling or floor upon which the ice rests overhead is simply laid with joists about 10 inches apart, permitting the cold air to descend easily. Spouting is arranged between the joists to carry off' all dripping from the melting ice. There is no ventilation of the storage room except through the entrance doors. The ice chamb- ers have two large ventilators in the roof. This building has been in operation one year, and has proven satisfactory. The owner has excellent facilities for storing his ice cheaply, having a dam adjoining the building, and an engine capable of elevat- ing a ton of ice per minute. I think a house like this could be built for less than .?7,000. The smaller building to which I have re- ferred is 30 feet square; lower story, single brick wall 13 inches thick, 9 feet high; up- per story frame; ice chamber 16 feet high, with a capacity of 300 tons; storage capacity, 900 barrels. The original cost of this struc- ture was about $1,000, but repairs and addi- tional supports cost from *1,000 to .$1,200 more. The ice is usually covered with corn- fodder or some similar substance, for pro- tection. This house is used chiefly for stor- ing butter and eggs. Of course many additional details could be given concerning these buildings, but my object has been merely to give a general idea of how they are constructed, and what measure of success has attended their use. Newer Varieties of Fruits; Estimates of Value by Leading Pomologlsts. REPORT ON DISCUSSION BEFORE AMERICAN POMOLOOICAL SOCIETT, BOSTON, SEPTEMBER 15. {Cunthiued from October Issite.) Pears. Comet. Lyon, Michigan, reported it very poor in Rochester, Minnesota, two years ago, although handsome. Kifffer. Brown of Khode Island: Not worth growing. Engle, Pennsylvania: Fine for everj- thing but eating. Fuller, New Jei-sey: Received the variety from Downing and this is very fine fruit, for canning not to be despised. Berckmans, Geor/yia: May not be suited to some sections, but to the South especially it is a boon. It is not of the best quality, but for health and productive- ness none are better. It proves to be most valu- able for market. Van Deman said he has seen it from North to South; at the North it is very poor, at the South very fair. Augur, Connecticut, spoke of its great bearing qualities; the fruit properly thinned is finer and has some value. Le Omte, w Chinese. Pear. Berckmans of Georgia, said: Like the Kieffer, it suits some sec- il [ D a D T Ground Plan of the SmaUer BYuit Home DcJicrihed Abitve. tions better than others. With them as taken from the tree it is not good, but if carefully ma- tured through early picking will almost compare with the Bartlett. It is distinct from the Kieffer. Crowe, of Connecticut, said it grows as well with them as in Georgia. Quality and size better than Kieffer; it rots at the core. Cary, of Georgia. The growth simply runs up; as a general thing it should be kept well cut back, as it would soon grow too high. Bumiian Piaiv. Hatch, of Wisconsin: They don't stand well in the nursery. Be^sseuiaiika. Gibbs, of Quebec, said the name indicates " seedless." It is the best of the Russian Peal's; foliage perfect, hardiness complete, in form like the Bcrgamot; the flesh is not buttery, nor very fine. Wutrous, of Iowa, has tried about 30 of the Russians, and this is the only prom- ising one. Saijiivanka. (!ibbs, of Quebec: Some better than Bes.senianka, but not so hardy. Only tiling that can be done with this race is to fruit them and find out which are of use. Whether we have the Bcrgamot of Volga, Russia, is very doubtful. Brackett: The Sapieganka cannot be relied on at the West as hardy, especially where the subsoil is clay. Watnjus, of Iowa, reported failure with it. Hoskins, of Vermont, said it stands with him, in Northern Vermont, where all other American and Euiojiean varieties are killed; is as hardy as the Wealthy Apple. Huosac. A delegate reported this as being a very nice Pear, and very promising. Lovett, of New Jersey, says it is very fine, coming in con- tact with Bartlett somewhat. WiUUr. Green, of New York, said it was hand- some, early, with bright red cheek; not inclined to rot at core. Drnnard. This was said by a delegate to suc- ceed well about Richmond, Virginia. Jlfd. Von Seihold. President Berckmans pro- nounced it not much better than the Sand Pear. Lovett, of New Jersey, thought it almost identi- cal with Mikado. Mikadv. Discussion brought out the fact that much confusion prevailed concerning this variety and the Daimio, it being evident that what some had under the one name was identical with what others had under the other and t-Ux versa. The fruit is in either case large, but of inferior qual- ity for the dessert. Cherries. Biumiari. Watrous, of Iowa, had tried 25 to 30 sorts, but found them generally not as hardy as the Richmond class. Some that were iron-clad as to tree he had not yet fruited. Wind-trrr. Barry, of New York, said this is a good one, of solid flesh and worthy of culture. Dye-lunise. FuUer, of New Jersey, spoke of it as a nice, little early Cherry, but not deserving of general culture. Leed was pronounced "no good." Montmm-ency. Berckmans: It's one of the few that succeed in the middle region of the South. Wragg. Watrous, of Iowa, pronounced it so nearly identical with the English MoreUo that some claim it is the same. Others think it is a seedling of that sort. Appears hardy as to fruit. Louise Phillilie. Taylor, of Rochester, N. Y., spoke of this one as a fine sour Cherry. Barry, of same place, thinks it a fine Cherry. Flams. EeUey'sJaiJan. Berckmans, of Georgia, does not believe it to be of any value north of New York, and probably not in New Jersey. In Southern States very promising, large, produc- tive, somewhat willowy in growth. The most promising introduction of many years for their section. Lovett, of New Jei-sey: Young trees are tender; gi-afted up are less hardy than the Peach, had grafted it on American Plum. Van Deman, of Department of Agriculture, had in Northern Texas seen it killed to the ground, and injured at Dallas, Texas; thinks it will not succeed where Figs will not. Simoni. Watrous, of Iowa, said it was not hardy with them: Barry, of Rochester, stated that they grew it first as an ornamental tree; fruit is badly stung by Curculio; places no spec- ial value on it. Marianna. Watrous, of Iowa: If not top grafted on Miner, would freeze to the ground. Bolnnmn was said to be later than the Wild Goose. Ba*Kc(f'g. A delegate said it was about as large as a Cherry. Blafkman. Berckmans, of Georgia, has had it ten years and never saw fruit. Pomologist Van Deman said it has never yet either blossomed or fruited in any nursery he knew of; every honest nurseryman should burn every tree he has. Moore's Arctic. Hoskins, of Vermimt, thinks it a seedUng of Lombard, which it resembles. It's the only variety they can rely on in Northern Vermont; is Curculio pnjof. A Nova Scotia delegate said they had not found it Curculio proof. About the only Plum that can be raised in New Brunswick, and that by laying down. De Soto. Brackett: Placed at the head of list of Western Native Plums. Harrison, of Ohio: Freest to bear of any. Engle, of Pennsylvania and Lovett, of New Jersey: One of the liest. Peaches. Pecn-to or Flat Peach. Fuller, of New Jersey, said this had been introduced more than fifty years ago, and re-introduced by Berckmans of Georgia in late years. Of great value to the South, and especially in Florida; most an admira- ble shipper. Great variation in forms, some be- ing long and very sweet. Van Deman spoke of it as being worthless outside of the Orange belt. BidweWs Early. A long form of the last named and worthless outside of the Orange districts, not succeeding even in Georgia. Stci'f n«»i'.s Barcriiie. A delegate said this was largely grown in New Jereey, but was no new Peach. Ripens after Crawford's late. 1 B C D A ° B [ A 1— II ' 1 Ground Plan of a Pennsylvania Befrigerator Fruit Honse. Albright. Said to be a White Cling, originated in North Carolina. Grapes. JVXoore's Early. Thurlow, of Massa- chusetts, had found it fruitful, about equal to Concord. Bourne, of Rhode Island, spoke of its not coming up to Concord in that respect. Lyon, of Michigan, pronounced it as early as Hartford, and only desirable because early. Strong, of Massachusetts; Not as productive as Concord. Caywood, of New York: Large coarse, rather inferior, fair but not hardy cropper; from one to two weeks earlier than Concord; valuable for the North. Warden. A Rochester, N. Y., delegate said it was liable to drop with them. Brackett, of Iowa: It's going to supplement Concord, an idea which several other delegates also expressed. Caywood thought it did not ship as well as Concord. Hubbard, of New York, reported on it favorably. Empire State. Berckmans: It does well in Atlanta, Georgia. Cole, of Connecticut, had found it to mildew badly. Campbell, of Ohio: One of the healthiest he has ever grown ; never any mildew, quality very fine. Has some foreign blood, he thinks. Regards it as the best among the Whites; flavor fine, approaching that of the best foreign kinds. Not as productive as Niagara, but as hardy. Caywood, of New York, said that with its giving large crops the fruit ran small. Thinks the skin unpleasant. Ulster. Green, of New York, considers this a very valuable Grape. Never fails. Cole, of Connecticut, found it to mildew bad. Campbell regards it as valuable; not a vigorous giower, but great producer. Hubbard, of New York, reports it as free of mildew as any. Berchman.^. A Georgia delegate said that it was larger than Delaware, but of smaller cluster. Woodruff [red.) Lyon, of Michigan: Far ahead of most others as a market Grape. Campbell, of Ohio, said it has a hardy vine; healthy foliage, large lahruMa, mildew resisting; clusters and benies large. Some native odor, little in taste; most persons Uke it very much; rod berries. Green, of New York, had found the bunches to be small, quality poor, but a productive, hand- some red Grape. Brackett, of Iowa, pronounced it very promising, referring to its healthy leaves, large clusters and fine appearance. Jewell. Van Deman described it as a black variety, extra early, small clusters, fair-sized berry. Campbell, of Ohio, said the \ine was much like Early Victor, but the fruit is one week earlier; about with Moore's Early; small as Dela- ware in cluster, great deal better in quaUty than Hartford or any other early variety. Early Victor. Campbell, of Ohio, describes it as being hardy and of same season as Hartford. 26 POPULAR GARDENING. November, Notes From a Rochester Fruit Farm. BT CHAS. A. GKEEN. The Apple Worm. In picking our Apples we find that tlie codling moth has done most damage in the lower branches, the higher branches and top being more free from blemish. Last year we sprayed the trees once with a solution of Paris green and water to kill the canker worm, a heaping spoonful of Paris green to a barrel of water. This appears to have destroyed many insects as the fruit was free from defects, but this year no Paris green was applied, and there are many wormy Apples. I shall be in favor of spraying every year hereafter, whether there are canker worms or not. Pruning Apple Orchards. We are now pruning our orchard planted 12 years ago. If we could have our choice we would prefer to prune next spring just before the leaves appear, but that is such a busy season it would hardly be possible to do the work then. I should not like to cut off large limbs at this season, as they will not heal over as smoothly or quickly as when cut in the spring, but with frequent pruning no large limbs need removing. It is only from neglect that such have to be removed. The removal of such limbs is the cause of decay in many Apple trees. Avoid it as far as possible. With old trees, whose days of usefulness are about passed, it may do to risk removing large branches, for the fruit on those remaining will be larger and better, but the trees will not live so long from the cutting. Young trees should be visited with the pruning knife every year. Then it is easy to keep them in good shape. If there is too much top the tree over bears, the fruit is small and defective, and it is difficult to gather the fruit. Thin out the branches and remove the lower ones that are liable to be borne down with the weight of fruit and interfere with cultivation. Do not prune too much at one time. A neighbor nearly ruined a productive orchard by cut- ting too much at once. There is danger of this. The longer the trees have been neg- lected the more they must be cut it is thought, but better do part now and part next year, and in the future do not neglect to prune a little every year. I find it difficult to keep the dwarf Angou- leme Pear pruned to a proper shape. It grows too rampant here, reaching double the size of Anjou and others, and is not so fruitful on account of excessive growth; on less productive soil it might do better. The Successful Man. An active, thorough going, farseeing business man will make things lively even in the most stagnant neighborhood. Let him undertake fruit culture and swarms of pickers gather at his door, and families move into that neighbor- hood to get work. As his success becomes known his neighbors follow his example, not only in planting fruit, but in diligence, thrift and enterprise and flnaUy the entire town takes a jump towards better things. Eternal vigilence and goaheadiveness are the price of success as well as of liberty. When such men appear upon the scene, slow going people have to clear the track or hasten their steps. In no pursuit is an active man more in place than in fi'uit growing. He must be a man to plan and to persevere, to work and to wait, to act promptly and de- cisively in order to secure success. But what pleasures he must enjoy, in his favor- ite occupation, surrounded with vineyards, berry fields and fragrant orchards ! The Curculio. Plums years ago were considered beyond the reach of our fruit growers on account of attacks of curculio. The fruit sold at fabulous prices. No one planted it extensively. I remember years ago when J. S. Woodward reported at our Western New York Horticultural Society that he had "put his foot in it," referring to the planting of a few acres of Plum trees. He expected to be laughed at but thought he would try Plum growing and see what would come of it. If was then discovered that in large orchards the curculios simply gave the plums a healthy thinning, for Plums naturally tend to over bear. Soon Plums were plenty in market, and now every one knows that they can be grown as readily as other fruits, yet for years it was supposed that the curculios had ruined the Plum industry. How easy it is to be dis- couraged at trifles. Effect of Dkainage on Fruits. I know of no fruits that will succeed on low, wet, undrained soil. Wlien I moved on to our fruit farm I tested a few plants and trees of almost all hardy fruits on a low piece of undrained muck. All failed except the Strawberry, and that was often cut with late spring frosts. No water lay on the sur- face here, but the subsoil was wet. Had I planted largely here I would have lost all. Where I have been called upon to explain the cause of barren orchards I often find them located on low soil that has not been drained. I recently saw a field of Currants at .loseph Harris' farm, near Rochester, planted on lowish land, all tile drained, but on one part the drains had become clogged. On this clogged portion the Currant bushes had dropped their leaves, had made but a feeble growth, and had borne only a small crop, while near by, where the drains worked, the leaves remained on late, growth was vigorous, and the crop enormous. We put in tile drains every year, using round tile with flat bottoms— no horseshoe tile for us, as the weight of the earth presses them into the soil and finally the water ceases to run. I am placing tile in ditches long left open, finding it too expensive cleaning out open ditches every spring. Where there is much water in the ditch designed to be cov- ered you can use No. 3 sewer pipe. These are pipes of any size desired that, bar un- important defects, and are sold to fruit growers at half price. They can be used for constructing sluices across roads. If you have an open ditch that you desire to bridge put in a few lengths of these sewer pipe for the water to pass through, and make a road of earth over them. They should be large enough to carry off the water freshets. Mulching the Fall Plantings. Plant- ing at this season is becoming more popular each year. There are many arguments in favor of this season for planting. But all who plant now need cautioning again and again about the necessity of guarding against heaving by frost. A little attention makes the planting at this season safe, a little neglect renders failure certain. I once planted a large field of Blackberry tips just before winter came on. Immediately after planting I drove over the field with a load of strawy horse manure and scattered a little litter over the spot where each plant was set— a large forkful would cover sev- eral plants, and a load would cover half an acre. This slight shading of the soil pre- vented frequent freezing and thawing, by keeping the soil frozen after the cold weather began, hence there was no heaving and aU was successful, and the plants re- ceived an early start next spring. Had I neglected the mulch all would have failed. In the .spring I would have found the plants out of the ground and dead. This covering must be given to fall planted Grape-vines, Strawberries, Currants, etc. Trees can be protected the same way, but I generally pile the earth one foot high about the base of each tree when planted in the fall. This is tisually protection enough. If a handfvil of strawy manure is thrown on the sunny side of the mound it will help. It is almost impossible t« keep Strawberries in the ground planted late in October, unless the land is remarkably well drained, or entirely covered with straw, therefore I do not rec- ommend fall planting of these. Neither do I recommend planting Peach trees in the fall at the North. Other trees and plants do well at this season if properly cared for. Notes from an Oneida County (N. Y.) Vineyard. That intelligent horticulturist, E. P. Pow- ell, of the county named in the heading, has recently given the following interesting notes, dated Sept. 5, on the doings of his vineyard, and which we reproduce from the New York Independent. It is impossible to judge a Grape by what it does in a single season. For instance, last year I hardly got a Pocklington that was fit to eat, although the season was late. This year I am eating splendid Pockling- tons September 5th. Last year they were intolerably musky, this year but slightly so. My notes so far for 1887 read: Lady ripe August 18th; not ripe in 18S6 until August 2.5th. When thoroughly ripened stands In quahty close to Brighton, a fair shipper; It has several new points this year and will be one of the few I shall grow more extensively. Picked Llndley August 29th, Massasolt Au- gust 30th; not ripe last year until September 10th; both fine shippers. They are a good deal alike, I.indley much better when ripening, but Massa- solt gains quality as it hangs on the vines. They are neither of them as good bearers of fine clus- ters as they ought to be. Massasoit is the only grape in ray vineyard thar has ever rotted. I wish we knew, or some one knew, all about that vile disease. I intend to dig my vines and bum them. The e\il may be in the air, but I think the ■line is also at fault. At least out they go. Began picking Wordens August 29th, finished September 5th; last year this grape was ripe from September 1st to 15th. Worden cannot be easily distinguished from Concord in color of fruit, but the stem is more brittle and is less in- clined to red. But as a grape Worden is fifty points ahead out of a hundred. It is fine eating when only lightly colored, while the Concord is not eatable till ten days after coloring. There is a fuU two weeks difference in time between sweet Wordens and sweet Concords. Duchess, picking September .5th; will be a little better, nearly perfect, in about three days more. Duchess I mark exceedingly high; the bunches are very fine, very showy, and the flavor is ex- cellent; it is also an admirable shipping grape, and will bear a good deal of rough handling. The handsomest show of all white grapes is made by Duchess. Martha. Picked some good, sweet fruit Aug- ust 30th; picked the balance September 3d. This variety is only a fairly good shipper. Pocklingtons are ripening finely September 5th; should hang on five days longer. But. Pockling- ton is never quite ripe— that is, while good, it is never quite free from a taste of imperfection, as if not entirely ripe. It is a capital shipper. Wilder is fair to-day, September 5th. Last year not good until the 20th. Brighton is superb, as usual, and will in two days be as fine as a perfectly ripened lona, which vaiiety I think it closely follows after. For very highest table quaUties Brighton must stand first of its class, and is not a bad shipper. While it has not given me heavy crops the \ine8 are not old and I understand it is a prolific sort. Jonas are very nearly ripe where open to the sun; but take care about exposing this grape too much. It needs f uU foUage. It has no superior in the world. Walter has been eatable since September 1st, but is a curious grape, that will two weeks hence not seem (piite ripe. Roger's No. 30 will need about five days more. For a meaty grape it stands first with me; it is a grand grape and cannot be overpraised. Herljert I picked this year August 29th, which is several days ahead of 188(i. My notes make points favorable to Herbert, only that it is so fai- with me a light bearer. Empire State not yet ripe September 5th. Concord can be eaten if the eater be not over particular, but it is far from being truly ripe. There is no reason for any longer planting this variety; it is thoroughly and every way super- ceded by Worden, in grai>e and in \ine, in time of ripening and in quality, while for prolific i887 POPULAR GARDENING. 27 bearing' the two giupes il(i not differ. The Con- cord i-liiss, including Worden, have tender skins and are poor keepers. Agawam is another grape that surprises me this year by early ripening, being nearly ready at the present time. Prentiss this year has not proved very refrac- tory in an>' way, e.veept that it does not give large crops, and needs too much covering and nursing: it should be discarded. best; Delaware is fine, Concord is good, Worden is l)etter, For porches there are no better than Agawani, Worden, Herbert. The foliage of Agawam is peculiarly dense. THE POTTAWATTAMIE PLUM. Barry is much like Wilder, but is not so g(jod; it should be discarded. Moore's Early I mark down and do not see any good reason for planting it: it barely precedes Worden and bares light crops. Niagara is really grand, but leaves an unpleas- ant taste in the mouth. Hayes I have not yet fruited, but believe it to be one of the best tor early market, and if I had not already planted it largely should do 90. Herbert is an excellent shipping grape, com- pared with most of the black grapes of similar size. Its skin is rather too tough for eating, yet I find it a favorite with almost all my visitors. Jefferson is one ot the \ery best in i|uality, but I have fruited onl,\' a small bunch or two, and cannot tell its shipping quality. Of ray newer sorts, not fairly tested, 1 think best of Golden Gem, Poughkeepsie Red, Hayes, Ulster, Jefferson, Niagara, Jessica, Empire State, and hope great things for Moore's Diamond. It compelled to make a narrower selection of roots for general culture. I should be sure to include Worden, Rogers 30, Herbert, Duchess, Lady. lona. Brighton, Wilder or Salem, or both, Delaware, Goertner, Aga- wam, Lindley. I shall make my fall plant- ing of Lady, Rogers 30, Brighton, and Faith, in planting a vineyard there is all of five days diflfereuce in the ripening from vines on a southeast exposure and from vines on a west or north exposure. The ground tii list be thoroughly drained, well enriched, and kept well tilled. In my own vineyard I plant Currant bushes between rows, and from them alone get full profit for land used. Sometimes I grow Strawberries under the Grape trellises. The Strawberry vines mulch the Grapes, but they demand all the more manure, and it is questionable whether it be advisable to allow them to occupy the ground: yet they yield finely. I would plant a few vines, at all events, in any locality, and with any soil or exposure, but I would not plant a vineyard before I liad tested my chances. Invariably buy two-year-old vines, of a first-class dealer, and cut them down to a single eye. In two years you get a few grapes, in four a full crop. But it is indispensable to ctitbackthoroughly the first two years. Even then some year's growth will be double others. The Grape crop is the one above all others easy to grow, and the amount raised might be doubled without trouble. I shall pick five bushels from the west side of my bam of the best Concords, besides fifty pounds of Lindleys from a smaller vine on the east side. Nature arranged this vine for this special purpose of giving abundance of fruit in small space. To cover barns and houses, long jointed vines like Lindley are not the Two Recent New Fruits. The Pottawattamie Plum. Of this new Western seedling, supposed to be a cross between the Chickasaw and the Swedish Sloe, Professor Bndd, of the Agricultural tJollege at Ames, Iowa, has very recently said, com- paring it with the Wild Goose: " We had speci- mens, when they came, of the Wild Goose in same con- dition as to ripeness. The Pottawattamie is about the same in size and mtich the same in color, but far better in quality. There_ is abso- lutely no astringency in the skin or pulp. We regard it as a great acquisition, if the tree, on all soils, proves as hardy, or hardier, than the Wild Goose." Messrs. Howard & Latimer of Shenandoah, Iowa, who are making a specialty of this Plum, pronotice it perfectly hardy and an immense early annual bearer. Four-year old trees have borne a crop of two bushels to the tree. It is a strong and vigorous grower tip to its fourth year, and from that on the immense crops of fruit gives it a dwarfish habit and pendulous form of growth. Those who eat the fruit for the first time fre- quently remark, " It has a Peach taste." It has no acrid taste, and when scalded the skin, which is very thin, peels ofT like that of a Tomato. It is said to begin to ripen in Iowa about the 3.5th of July, and the season lasts three or four weeks. The sting of the curculio does not make the fruit drop, but every Plum ripens evenly and jjerfectly. The Wilder Pear. "This new variety," writes Charles A. Green, of Rochester, N. Y. to us, "was sent me for trying last year. I was favorably impressed with its flavor and beauty, and requested more specimens. This summer I received a large basket of the Wilder. They came July 30th and kept in good condition in my warm office until August 8th, probably two weeks after pick- ing, a remarkable thing for an early Pear. It showed no signs of rotting at the core. I sent specimens to John J. Thomas, who gave me a careful description of it and seemed favorably impressed. He described the quality as excellent, or very good. I carried a basket of the Wilder to EUwanger & Barry's office and compared them with the Gitlard and Andre Uesportes, then ripe at Rochester, and evidently a little earlier than Wilder. Wilder was superior in flavor to either, and about the same size as the above two. Wilder was much larger last season. The drought of this summer afl'ected its size. It has no superior in flavor among the early Pears, if it has among any. I re- gard it as exceedingly promising." Canning Factories in tlie West. The canning factory in Bloomington, 111., according to a recent article in the local paper of that place, was at the time of writing running at full blast. From five to sLx hun- dred Imshels of Tomatoes were daily hauled to the rear door, were picked over (and spotted ones at once rejected), then scalded and piled into buckets to await the peeling process. The number of those employed in the factory amounts to 1.50, nearly all of whom are girls. These girls had each a great bucket of scalded Tomatoes before them constantly, and the speed with which I he skins were hustled off and the Tomatoes sent to the waiting cans, was remarkable. About 1.5,(K10 cans were filled each day fi-om then until the end of the season. The factory can hardly be said to have been running at full capacity, as help was lacking, but with fifty expected new hands the limit of capacity was to have been reached. The seeds and plants were furnished in the spring by the canning company, and the Tomatoes were brought to the factory for *t!..50 a ton. The two kinds of Tomatoes used were the Beauty and the Perfection. The greatest care, neatness and dispatch are used in canning them, and the result is mountains of shining cans filled with the luscious vegetable, all contracted and await- ing a lull in the rush of business to have their labels pasted on and to be shipped. " I do not know of any investment which pays better than a canning factory," said Mr. N. S. Storrs, of Vernon Co., Mo., a man experienced in the canning business, re- cently. " Ordinarily they \vill return from 3.5 to 40 per cent, and even more where judiciously managed. " You can dispose of the goods just as fast as they are ready for the market, and that feature enables you to transact the business with a comparatively small capital. As the work is done in summer, a cheap building will answer all requirements, and that to- gether with the machinery for a large busi- ness will not cost over $3,000. That money would provide a factory giving employment to one hundred women and girls, and the disliursement each week for vegetables and labor would run from .*800 to *1,000. An ac- tive woman earns about one dollar per day. " Tomatoes, Corn and Peas are the staples, One acre of Tomatoes will ordinarily pro- duce 400 bushels, which at twenty-five cents per bushel will yield $100. Sweet Corn is bought in the husk at »T..50 per ton. Peas are bought at fifty cents per bushel. " In .January the company sends a man out among the farmers and contracts for the growth of the supplies, thus ensuring cer- THE wilder pear. tainty of production. The company fur- nishes all the seed. " A company can make its own cans at less than two cents each, and one bushel of Tomatoes will make twenty 3 lb. cans. The cost of labor, labels and boxing in canning is very small on one can, and Tomatoes are now wholesaling at $1.30 per dozen, a price unusually high on account of the scarcity of the [iresent season's crop. But at $1.00 per dozen, the usual price, there is a large profit in the business. There is even a larger profit ill Corn than in Tomatoes." 28 POPULAR GARDENING. November, THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* XI. BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST. Continued frompage 9. PLANTING THE PLACE— THE HARDY TREES, SHRUBS, AND VINES. Having now attended to the matters of selecting the garden site, the principles of general arrangement, the fitting up of the soU to receive trees and plants, and enclos- ing or dividing of the garden area, we may at this stage proceed with the important matter of planting the place, taking up in detail the selection of Iciiids throughout, and such special instructions concerning man- agement as are adapted to the numerous classes used in stocliing a complete garden. And, inasmuch as the growths of a woody nature, trees, shrubs, and vines, require more time than others for reaching fruitful- ness and maturity, it is important that these should be among the first to interest the planter of a place; hence it is in order that they receive first attention here, following later with herbaceous,tender and seed-grown kinds. Before proceeding to special classes, it may be proper to consider certain princi- ples of planting which apply with more or less force to all hardy trees, shrubs and vines. When to Plant Trees, etc. The season between leaf fall in the autumn and leaf breaking in the spring is the natural plant- ing time. In the case of Evergreens, which do not drop their leaves in the fall, this rule still holds good, for during this period growth in these is inactive, hence the trees are fit for moving. Were it not for the un. certain vicissitudes of the winter to come, or were all trees and shrubs absolutely hardy under all circumstances, I would lay down the rule that aU be planted as soon after the leaf falling time referred to as possible. As these important points are not to be fa- vorably reckoned upon, it is best to modify the rule, by saying that with such and such kinds it is best to take chances on fall plant- ing, but with certain others not. The kinds of trees and shrubs which, therefore, in the latitude of Central New York, I prefer to plant in the fall may be specified as follows: AU Fruit trees but stone sorts. Cherry and Plum of stone sorts in light dry soil. RaspbeiTies, Blackberries, and Grape-vines, (with winter protection to prevent heaving). Elms, Horse-chestnuts, Maples, Oaks, and the hardier native trees. Birches, Larches, and Beeches always in the fall it possible. To the above might be added the hardier shrubs, like LUacs,Mock Oranges, Loniceras, Berberries, Native Viburnums, etc. , and the climbing Ampelopsis, Honeysuckles, and native vines, but as these mo.stly transplant with the greatest ease in the spring, and when other kinds that should not be set in the fall are being put out, it is seldom worth while to start in on planting the former in the fall. The advantages of fall planting in the cases safe to venture on are found in the fact that the soil has a chance to settle well to the roots by spring, permit- ting the tree to then start upon a course of uninterrupted growth, and actually before the earth would be dry enough for good tillage. There is also usually more leisure for the work in the fall than in the spring. Next to fall planting in the cases specified, I prefer to do all setting oiit of hardy trees and shrubs, Evergreens included, as early in the spring, after the soil works up mellow, as possible. A difference of a few weeks even, between early and later planting at this season, may make just the difference between perfect and indifferent success in the work. The hardier Evergreens may also be safely transplanted immediately after the growth of the season is completed, • Copyright, 1887, Popular Gardening Publishing Co. (usually by August), provided a moist spell of weather conducive to such operations should then prevail. By planting these under favorable conditions in August or September (not later), the roots have a chance to put in some work before cold weather, fitting the tree to safely withstand the win- ter ahead. Where and How to Procure the Stock. Under this head there come up three important considerations. The first Ls the getting of reliable stock, true to name and grown under healthy conditions; the second, to get such as has been raised with a view to an abundance of healthy roots on the dug-up plant, and third, the idea of the least possible exposure of the roots from the moment of laying them bare at digging to their final covering in planting. These points closely observed and the road to good B a g 10 It n./3 tl ,C (7)2 3 4 (s\ 7 8(7)11, It Il(7s)l4 /'r'~^0^ ' ^^ 2, ^^ S ^-^ I < 1 ^/ i ^ 4 S b T & s 10 n tin H • V,j-^r », 3 f i- 6'7 8 S /? tl t\ li H ^ibmL^^®^® ® ® © ® © ^ (01® 0 <3> 0 Q} ^©\j'3 (?) © ® © ® M.^)^ @ ® 0 © ® II© (p..® v5 ® ® R^ i^^Mii '<„. ■O T tlic Garden Plan {portion of tonJinff, and OS a Record for Fig. 36. EmployUi; Fig. 4) tfj aitl the . permanent future itse. results is easily made certain; a single one disregarded and "no luck in planting" would very likely be the conclusion arrived at by the end of the first season. To get reliable stock the only safe course is to deal vrith growers or salesmen of un- doubted reliability. To ascertain beyond any question as to who among nurserymen are to be trusted, if you do not know, con- sult with intelligent horticulturists in your neighborhood or elsewhere for a list of such. The nurserymen who advertise in agricultural or horticultural papers of high character are also, with very rare excep- tions, to be trusted. Be especially on your guard against dealing with traveling agents who are strangers; of this class I believe there are more who are downright swindlers than of honest men, representing responsible firms. A ditficult feature in judging here is that the bad will take every possible means to convince you of their being otherwise, and in this, they too often succeed. A safe course in dealing with strangers is to find out their professed connections, with name, at a first meeting, giving them no farther ear untU, after writing to the house they claim to represent, you are assured of their reliability. Even then it would be best to reach your conclusions on what is wanted by independent inquiry among those who have fine home grounds of their own, or by the study of catalogues, books, and periodicals, than on the agent. You m ay be sure that under any circum stances these gentlemen will be determined to sell you all the trees they can of the kinds they hold in stock, keeping very silent about desirable kinds not possessed. But another point is that, if a large assortment is wanted, it can, for obvious reasons, be bought to better advantage of several nurs- ery firms than of one. Concerning stock grown with a view to plenty of good roots, I would say that most of that raised by reliable nurseries would be found satisfactory. To promote this condi- tion two common means are employed by nurserymen, namely, frequent transplanting (equivalent to root pruning) and direct root pruning. If, by putting the question to a reliable nurserymen, you can satisfy your- self that he pays due attention to these points you would be safe in trusting your order with him. It might be well, however, to make the quality of the roots a condition of the acceptance of the stock when you send in the order. It should also be observed that the larger trees as they leave the nur- sery are, the smaller the stock of roots pro- portionately, this being the excellent reason why the most intelligent planters usually insist on receiving medium rather than large sized trees. The average of trees dug up from the forests and waste places are very inferior to nursery trees, for the plain reason of having poor roots because they have sprung up without transplanting (root prun- ing in effect) at any time and with no culture. Lessening the period of root exposure. To accomplish this it is a great gain, either to buy all suitable stock you can from a local nursery, in order that less than a day need intervene between ground and ground in transplanting, (and at that keeping it protected with damp straw and blankets), or else to insist, if the trees are shipped, that they be boxed and the roots packed in moss. Put it down as a good rule that in no case can there be any considerable exposure of the roots to the air without damaging con- sequences. The best protection to the roots during the period between digging and final planting is to heel them well into the earth. The ordering of nursery stock should be done at the earliest practicable moment after the last planting season, with a view to the next. The reason why, is that for your order to be received among the earliest at the nursery, and by demanding its early filling at the next digging time, this will be done, thus permitting of getting your plant- ing along with at the very beginning of the next season, instead of having order fill- ing crowded oflf until late, as must reason- ably occur if it is sent in along with the rush of the season's orders. With orders sent in early revisions may be made later on with- out effecting the earliness of such being filled. An exact copy of each order should be made and preserved. General Notes on Planting. Along with making out the order of planting stock, the plan of the grounds, which, in its main features should have been designed long before, will naturally be developing more fully in details. The place for particu- lar kinds and the kinds for particular places will be quite sure to be determined fully only as the order itself receives its final touches, if indeed this part can ever be said to have been fully done. The point I desire to make here is that in the intervening time between an early send- ing away of the order as suggested and the re- ceipt of the stock, the location of every tree, shrub and plant should be so clearly decided upon, and then marked out on the plan, and such other provisions preparatory to plant- ing be made, as will enable this part to proceed with no loss of precious time on the arrival of the stock. For all this the main 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 29 reliance should be the garden plan, or if this be small, an enlarged duplicate, aud as many small light stakes, a foot or so in length, and smooth for writing, as there are individual trees, shrubs, etc. It will pay to be at considerable pains in seeing that the plan for this purpose is in good order and on good strong paper, as this will, besides aiding in the planting, serve perpetually as a record of the planting. To show my method of employing such a plan see Fig. .36, which applies to a portion of the garden of Fig. 4. It will be observed that of this portion the fruit trees are brought into rows and groups, designated by Icttein from A to O, those of the ornamental parts in group sections separated by heavy dotted lines and designated by letters P and onwards, (double letters AA, etc., after Z). In the respective rows and groups then, individual growths are indicated by naiiihers from 1 upwards. By then getting up a clear record copy of the original order, and having the individual trees, shrubs, etc., of the same represented in each case by the letter of the group section or row in which it is to come, and in addition, by the number of its location in its groujj or row, the place of each one is at once made evident, and the name of any tree on the grounds can after- wards easily be determined by consulting this plan and the accompanying numbered list of kinds. The small stakes provided are to be used thus. There being as many of these as of individual plants to be set, each stake is to have the name of its tree plainly written upon it (first painting the vrriting surface lightly), together with the group or row letter and individual number in each case; then tying the stakes of the respective groups or rows for convenience into separate bundles, until the planting time. Just previous to the receipt of the nursery stock these stakes then may be taken to the grounds and be carefully set, each in the place where the tree or shrub it represents is to come. Planting day at hand, the distribution of all the stock to its exact place becomes a matter of the greatest ease, no matter how extensive may be the quan- tity or how varied the assortment. And always afterward, whether the trees be labeled or not, a simple and reliable record will be at hand to show what is included in the planting of the place. In case of in- ability to obtain certain trees, etc., desired, there need be not the least difficulty in substituting other kinds, by simply changing the names on the record to correspond. (To be ccmtinueil.) , WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BY A. M. PUBDY, PALMYRA, N. Y. MORE ABOUT EVAPORATING FRUIT. Yes.we use brimstone in bleaching Apples and all kinds of fruit. Care must be used not to have it too strong, or to keep fruit over it too long. It takes but a few moments for the fumes to pass through a half or whole apple. To satisfy yourself on this point cut an apple in halves, hold one half over a lighted match as soon as struck and not the other half and lay the two halves side by side for an hour or two. Apples should be put over the heat as soon after being bleached as possible, though by our plan we run enough through our bleachers through the day to last over night. We pare and core by what is termed the " punched " plan, leaving apples whole to be bleached and then slice as needed. If apples burn on one end or side of rack and not on the other it can be prevented by putting a narrow piece of sheet iron over the furnace under the part that burns. This throws heat on opposite side. Also spread the fruit heavier on the end of racks that bum. Don't let the fruit get "chip" dry be- fore taking off but just a little "spongy and a trifle moist. You can soon tell how dry to let it get by placing racks out on floor in the different stages of the drying and if they dry in a few minutes so as to be "chippy" they are dry enough. The fruit should not be packed as soon as taken from evaporators, but allow them to lay a day or two till they sweat nicely. We usually pack in r>0 lb. boxes or clean apple, sugar or cracker barrels. Barrels are more convenient and less costly than boxes, and fruit sells nearly as well in western markets so, but not as well in eastern cities. We always "face" the fruit whether packed in boxes or barrels, and cover with clean white fruiting paper. The net weight should be on each package. We prefer to hire help by the day. Paying by the bushel gives dissatisfaction, as apples do not run alike, and you can't always keep all workmen on same lot of apples, and too, they are apt to slight their work. We calculate it costs us about eight to ten cents per bushel to prepare the apples. We get about six lbs. from a bushel, and make vinegar from cores and skins. We calculate cores and skins if dried to sell at 2 to 2)4 cents per lb. ; will just about pay expense of preparing the apple, leaving six lbs. of evaporated apples to the bushel net, except cost of apples and freight, pack- ages and commission. We run through our four Champion evaporators an average of four hundred bushels per day or about 3400 pounds of the dried fruit. PRUNING APPLE TREES. We prefer cutting away large limbs this month instead of March and April, as is generally practiced, although they may be trimmed safely and without damage to tree any time after April 1.5th to December 1st. The great secret of trimming is to make open spreading heads, letting sunshine into the center of the tree. Different sorts grow differently. The Greening and King require but Mttle thinning out in the top, while the N. Spy and Baldwin must be center pruned. High colored Apples are what sell best and quickest. We prefer keeping orchards cul- tivated, these to grow in grass or sod, though on the rich soils of the West it may be best to prevent too rapid growth by seeding down. We like trimming or heading a tree so that horses can pass under or very near to the body in working among and under the trees. We cannot recommend too high cultiire or stimulants. Plant on good corn land and keep well cultivated and trimmed is our rule. Of course cultivating an orchard must cease in aU cases by the middle of August, and the first of August generally is safe. " Working round your Peach trees I see at this season of the year? " " Yes, now is the time to dig: out and kill the Peach borers. We dig them out with a sharp in- strument, and then as you see, give the trees a good coating of lime whitewash, throwing into each pailful of the whitewash half a gill of salt and a tablespoon of carbolic acid, or a gill of soft soap. This keeps all grubs from working at the trees; we also scatter a handful of salt through the fall or winter around each tree, say from 8 to 10 inches away from body." " Do you advise working round Peach trees in the fall of the year? " " Not until late, say in November or December, if earlier than that it is apt to give them a start to grow, and thereby make the tree very tender. We also cut back at lesist one-half of the past season's growth, and if too thick trim out some." " Apples I see are gcfting very ripe." "Yes, and therefore a risky season to buy for barreUng purposes, and the result is a large share have to go through the evaporators, which makes a busy season for us. We are now running through our four evaporators here and in Canan- daigua 300 to 400 bushels per day, or making about 2000 pounds of evaporated fruit every 24 hours." " 1 see you are setting some trees? " " Yes, filling up some, necessarily, with the lien Davis Apple. We like fall st^tting, and if banked up with earth just before ground freezes, and this drawn away in the spring early, the.v make a I'ull growth next season. In fact, we prefer fall setting for all kind.s of stock except Straw- berries, if banked up and drawn away as we say." " llather late ploughing isn't it? " " No, we are getting that ready for setting Strawberries in the spring. We have grown a crop of Hungarian grass or Millett there, and, as you see, ground is clean, and now by ploughing the stubble under and leaving it up loose in the furrows without harrowing the frost puts it in nice shape by spring; and by ploughing it again then it's in splendid condition for planting Straw- berries. And, by the way, we are done planting much surface to Strawberries. Two acres well planted and cared for will yield as much as si.\ to eight acres ordinarily grown. By well cultivated we mean to have ground ploughed as described, well manured, and plants set closely so as to make clean matted rows, and these kept weU hoed and cultivated. One hundred and fifty to two hun- dred bushels per acre of such sorts as Crescents, Wilson's, BidweU's, Sharpless, Downer's Prolific, etc., is not an uncommon yield from plantations thus grown." " I see you have not trimmed your Raspberry bushes any? " " Only once, when they were about two feet high. We have become satisfied that too late nipping back causes a late fall growth of wood or tips, and that these are easily killed back, es- pecially is this so with the Gregg; but by allow- ing them to grow as you see, and not cutting back the last time till after the growth is stopped, the bush or cane that is left is well ripened and scarcely ever winter kills." " I see you allow the old wood to stand yet. You did not do so formerly." " No, but in that we have changed our practice, for the reason that the old ones are stiff and strong and prove a support to the new growth when most tender and easily broken down." " Some of your Strawben-y plantations must be pretty old? " " Yes, four to five years; we find the first ber- ries are what pay us, and we always get the earliest from our old beds. If ground is prepared and plants once set and cared for, as we before suggested, and kejit well cleaned the first year, they wiU keep out grass and weeds pretti' well for three or four years afterwards. The past season we sold one-third of our crop before our neighbor got any to speak (»f in market, and ob- tained for them 9 to 10 cents per quart, when for the other two thirds we netted no more than on the third sold first." " Have you ever tried using up your Straw- berries in any other way than to sell fresh? " " Yes, we have made them into jelly with good success, putting them up into small tumblers and selling these for 10 to 1.5 cents each through the winter. The tumblers with tin covers can be bought for about $3 per 100." " Do you sell Raspberries largely fresh? " " Oh no, three-fourths we evaporate. It takes about three quarts to the pound if well ripened, which have never sold for less than IS cents net." " What are you doing with your Gei-aniums?" " Digging them and cutting off tops and put- ting away in cellar with roots covered in earth." "Sweet Potatoes! Why! can you grow such monsters here?" " Yes, we gi'ow them easily if planted out from 20th of May to first of June. We plow a deep furrow and scatter well rotted manui-e in the bottom, then throw a furrow over this from both ways and plant on top the ridge." 488. Evergreen Hedge in Shade. The Hem- lock does pretty well under trees where not too much shaded; the Arl)iirvit;c about as well. We know of none that will do Iwtter. We have seen Privet, a sub-evergreen, do ninaria, are broadly ovate, while those of L. flus-jniUK are lance- olate, and those of the hybrid are ovate lanceolate. In the hybrid the central flowerstalk is Fig. 1. The Mullein Pink, Lychnis coronaria. Fig. 2. Floirer of Jove, Fig. 3. The Hybrid. Lychnis flos-Jovis. NEW HYBRID LYNCHNIS: THE PARENTS AND THE HYBRID ILLUSTRATED. THE SINGLE FLOWERS NATURAL SIZE. A Beautiful New Hybrid Lychnis. We are enabled this month to figure a new Hybrid Lychnis of recent origin in En- gland, and with it figures of its parents, altogether forming an interesting group. For the drawings of these engravings and also for our information concerning this in- teresting new plant we are indebted to the Gardeners' Chronicle, of London, England. That this hybrid, coming from two such showy garden flowers as the Mullein Pink, Ljichnin coronarid (Figure 1) having deep crimson, velvety flowers, and the Flower of .Jove, L. flos-joviif (Figure 3) with clusters of reddish, purple flowers, should prove to be both handsome and desirable is no matter for surprise. It is descriljed by its originator, Mr. Alfred O. Walker, as l)eing very superior as a decorative plant to either parent. The habit resembles L. ftus-jovi.'^, though the plant is larger. The flowers are almost as large as those of L. comudriii. but are far more brilliant in color, being of a lighter and more rosy-purple. In fact it is one of only about two inches long, and the two side branches (see Figure '-i) are about of equal length, each bearing a group of flowers of which the central one is open and not far behind the primary flower. So that, as a matter of fact, where in the Mullein Pink we should have only one flower open at a time, there are in the hybrid certainly two equally developed at the same time, and perhaps three. This is of itself an advantage. In the Flower .Jove the central flowerstalk is exceedingly short, and the two side branches are of equal length, each bearing densely packed groups of flowers, arranged precisely on the same genaral plan, though more numerous. Hence the infloresence of the hybrid is quite intermediate between that of its parents. So far no good seed has been raised from the hybrid as might have been expected, but it is said that no difficulty is experienced in propagating the plants by division. The Roman Hyacinth. The Roman Hyacinth of commerce, the kind to be noticed here, is not, according to the Gardening World of England, the true Roman Hyacinth. The latter is Hya- cinthus RninaiiHS (first introduced as Scilhi Romana) and having small pale blue flowers fading to white at the margins, Ijlooming in May out-of-ctober and then is cut down from the end finely with a sharp spade, and thrown over just at the opening of winter, it will have altogether gone through such a change, by fermentation and freezing, that by spring it will be quite fit for applying to the soil. In this way one can get up a valuable supply of manure at a smiUl cost. It would be a pity indeed if all our enterprising gardeners would not avail themselves at this time of the opportunity to get up a rich compost heap for next season's use. A Visit to Old yet New Scenes. Quite recently the writer found great pleasure in Wsiting the scenes of some of his earliest labors in the branch of gardening, plant raising, et^. It was to the seed, plant, and marketing establishment of Messrs. Peter Henderson & Co., of New York and Jersey City, N. J., and where as a younger man the now conductor of this journal served a special term of apprenticeship in the branches named. But what a change has marked the place in sixteen years ! Extensive as we then realized that the establishment was, associated as we were in its care, it has so outgrown all foi-mer limits as quite to obliterate many of the earlier familiar landmarks. This is true of all departments. In the greenhouse range what constituted the block of narrow single-walk houses, numbering " 1 " to " 19 " of that day, has now given place to larger, wider, and in every way finer houses in the same space. But beyond the two older Rose houses, 20 X 300 feet each, the change has been still more marked. Here on land that sixteen years ago was devoted to gardening purposes, there have sprung up block after block of new structures, until to-day an area of fully four acres has been converted into a veritable city of glass. And this work of extension still goes on; at the time of our visit a large addition of cool houses was in building and nearing completion. To enter into anything like a detailed account of the contents of these houses is not the purpose of this article. Suffice to say that the same conspicuous signs of large assortment, of supenor culture, systematic management and orderliness which we have al- ways recognized as a peculiar mark of this model commercial establishment were present through- out. But this, the plant and gardening department of the establishment, is after all but ane branch of a stupendous business that takes pride in furnishing "everything for the garden." To show the close relation between the garden and seed departments, which latter in New York, were visited the same day, it becomes only neces- sary to refer to the seed testing features of the former branch. Here under glass on the day of our call we found tests as to the germinating quality of seeds going on on a large scale, includ- ing more than 2,000 lots of seed, while in the garden outside an area was devoted to a test for purity of 600 varieties by actual field culture. For the seed branch thus to bo able to fortify its customers on the one hand against impurity of the variety and on the other against any possible inferiority of \itality, is an advantage which multitudes of good cultivators have long since shown their appreciation of. In the seed house proi>er in New York the same signs of expansion since our personal connection here were visible r' i:?-j How a Subscriber Winters his Lettuce. (See opposite page.) but even in greater degree than in the branch referred to. Then a moderate sized store, occu- pying a few floors, now a store of double the former width (being 52 feet wide throughout), with a grealAir depth than formerly (being l^W feet in length) and embracing seven flooi-s that are devoted to the seed and implement trade. These floors are connected by two steam elevators that extend from sub-ba.sement to loft, besides ample stairways. To enter into a. detailed ac- count of what we here saw recalling old times would also be (juite impossible within the Umits of one article. It may answer to say that from top to bottom of the establishment there were met the old time signs of activity now greatly extended. At the time of our visit the new crop of seeds were arriving and being handled and stored, and the fall bulb and grass seed trade was in full swing, both in the whole- sale and retail departments. In one storage room we could not but note a solid and convincing illus- tration of the recent advance in the seed trade in a single lot of New Jersey Wakefield Cabbage seed, which amounted to three tons, and another of Early Summer Cabbage seed of four tons. The extent of the grass seed stock was another surprise. Altogether in this brief call upon old friends and a former esteemed employer we were more forcibly impressed than ever be- fore with the gi'eat work it is in the power of one man by intelli- gent energy and perseverance (in late years aided by his sons) to build up from a small beginning, and all within the bounds of con- siderable less than a life time. But the work of Peter Hender- son is not to be measured by his acres of greenhouses and the greater part he has had in building up the most extensive seed trade by catalogue in America to-day, for in addition to these he has, by the writing of numerous well known practical works, now standard, on American gar- dening, as well as by his numberless articles on the same subject in periodicals, made an impress on the good fortunes of thousands throughout the crmntry that is simply beyond compute. That his influence for good on improWng the horticul- ture of America to-day has been and is second to that of no one other man, living or dead, is in the writer's mind a matter admitting of no question. tober. It W!is not a very large one, being chiefly taken up by amateurs, but there were some very good designs by florists. It is always amusing, at a show of this sort, to see the ideas expressed by the different exhibitors in making an entirely new and original design. One of the amateur exhibitors displayed, in the line of novelty, a miniature garden, built of mosses, ferns, and evergreens, with a couple of swings, in which were very waxy dolls wearing satin Mother Hub- Floral Notes by a New York Ob- server. Autumn weather is bringing people back to town, so there is some prospect of more work for the florists. Taken all around this has been the dullest, flattest season for years, as far as the florists are concerned, and the natural result is that there is very little in the way of novelties. It is not only in town, either, that trade is poor; the great florists at the watering places complain equally with those in the city. There is, of course, a crop of autumn weddings as usual. But for the most part they do not take place in town; they are either at a country residence or country church. The decorations, to be in keeping with the place, are chiefly fleld flowei-s and autum leaves. They are usually very artistic when well arranged. Roses and Lilies, with the stereotyped Orange blossoms, are stUl the favorite bridal flowers, and at a good many of these country weddings the bridesmaids have carried golden rod, which makes a very ipsthetic harmony with a white frock. Baskets are more often carried than bouquets by the bridesmaids. The attempt to be original has made fashion- able women affect a good many novel flowers for bouquets. One peculiar combination made by Hodgson at Newport was blue Passion Flowers and Mignonette. It was tied with reseda-green ribbon, and made a perfect har- mony in minor tones. Allamandas are used to a considerable extent in table decorations. Their color shows up very well by lamplight, which is not the case with all yellows. The flowers are usually mixed with Maiden-hair or Asparagus. As long us Hydrangeas were in bloom they were used to a tremendous e-xtent, even in pla- teaus f>n the table, though they are certainly very coarse flowers for such a purpose, and it was certainly impossible to mix any other flowers with them. The first flower show of the season was at the American Institute Fair the second week in Oc- A PLEA8INQ PARLOR NOVELTY; NATURAL LANDSCAPE PLAQUE bards. The effect was extremely painful, though no doubt the maker's intentions were good, but certainly no outside adornment save a bow of ribbon— and not too much of that— is permiss- ible in floral designs. One beautiful funeral design, though not es- pecially new, displayed admirable taste and workmanship. It was a standing cross with slanting arm, made entirely of Ivy leaves. Brought over the arm, and to trail spirally about the standard, was a garland of Niphetos Roses, White Bduvardia and Violets. At one side of the base was a cluster of Mermets. An- other straight standing cross, also of Ivy leaves, had over the arms a crescent wreath of Perle Roses and Yucca Filamentosa. Yucca flowers come in very well in funei*al work; their waxy pallor is very effective, and they stand well, even when handled rather roughly. Another pretty design was a flat cushion of Moss, on which was a cross of light flowers, with a garland over the arms. One new funeral de- sign was peculiar rather than beautiful; it was a shield-like panel of Ivy leaves, resting on an easel. At the top was a slanting anchor of Pan- sies. Below this was an urn of Marigolds, band- ed with Tuberoses. The urn was exactly the shape of a druggist's mortar, minus the pestle. If the pestle was added, it would do admirably us a funeral design for a druggist; in any other case it would be too suggestive. A pretty idea for a bridal bouquet was the use of our little native Qrchid, Spiranthes cernua (Ladle's Traces) in combination with Niphetos. The Spii-anthes is a very dainty little thing, and most fragrant withal. There are many very fine Dahlias grown now, and they make fine effects for showy work. A very handsome basket of these flowers was a tall flaring trumpet of dull green, flUed with bright red Dahlias of all sizes, with their own leaves. Another showy thing was a dull yellow Majolica vase filled with all sorts of Marigolds. A straight, upright basket witlicmt handles is very handsome when filled in pyramidal form with Roses and Heliotrope, but, like the French fish baskets, much depends on the way the flowers are arranged. Most women now affect a liking towards some one special flower, a fancy prevalent with theat- lical stars. The tigerish Bernhardt wants only rare Orchids and night-bl he cinicluded next month.) How 1 Crow My Chrysanthemums. [.-1 paper by George Trussell before the Montreal Horticultural Society.} This paper was written iu confonnity with the contlition.s upon which the first prize wa.s awarded on Clirysanthemums, the plants having been brought into bloom without the aid of a greenhouse. It may therefore, be accepted as evidence of wliat can be accomplished with limited facilities. I do not pretent to gi\e anything new. The cuttings were put in early— some in February, some in March, and potted them in 4 inch pots; as soon as they required shifting they got ti inch pots, and four weeks after they got 10 inch pots. The soil was of well rfitted manure and sods. Sufficient drainage was given, this being an im- portant point. If large plants are required the}' must, from April 1st to July 1st, be pinched about twice a week to keep them bushy. The Japanese varie- ties are inclined to grow u[)right, and with these the system of management matters little. About June 1st the pots were put outside in rows sufficiently distant from one another to allow a man to pass between, taking care not to let the plants rofit through the pots; to prevent which they were moved (tnce or twice a week. I recommend training, giving each branch the support of a stake to i)re\ent it from breaking with the wind and rains. Chrysanthemiuns are xigorous fec^dere. I sup- plied them with liquid maiuiro at. least three times a week; they were also well watered, to prevent (lagging. To prevent Ulack Fly I stfeped Tobacco stems in water and syringed the plants. The stimulant used was chiefly cow manure placed in a tub of wat«r, and staljlc maunre placed in a basket set iu water. About the end of September 1 erected a hou.se to keep the plants from freezing. I chose the south side of a fence, and placed the end of a 13-foot scantling on the top rail, the other end resting on a similar scantling in front about .S feet from the ground, using no boards in the structure; the feme thus formed the back, and one end. After nailing bags along the front to keep out the cold, 1 placed hot-bed lights on the top, and put a box sto\'e in- side to heat the jilacc when reiiuired. I continued to cut the bloom until near Christmas, Horticulture at Canada's Exposition at Toronto. Tliis fair was denominated the greatest that had ever been held by the society. For the horticultural department the new and tasteful structure recently erected, although of considerable dimensions, proved quite inadequate for holding the exhibits. The display of flowers, excepting in cut bloomsi was excellent, but still hardly up to what should have been expected in a city of the wealth and size of Toronto. But as this exhibit was so far ahead of its predecessors, we hope to see improve- ment at future shows. Cut flowers were superb, and were a show in themselves. Foliage plants were particularly fine, especially the Begonias. Tropical plants were numerous, and included a magnificent Cactus, about eight feet high. The fruit exhibit met all expectations and more, being, as it was, the best display by far which has yet been seen in ('ana'car has been one of special dis- couragenieut, excepting only a few countries in the extreme northeast where there was a partial crop, they having in part escaped the freeze which killed Apple and Peach blooms elsewhere. ('onsider.ing the general .xevere .''J.^' IMPROVED STYLE OF GRAFTING THE GRAPE, the union. In the old way many scions fail to unite with the stock, while with this plan no more die than of ordinary vines set out, but they are a little later to start. This is a saddle graft, modi- fied with a half -severed stump below. The stock should be disbudded, to lose its individuality and throw its energies into the bud scion. The scion and stock should be of the same size and the cuts upon the stock should be upon each side, from about the center of an internode, through a bud, to the same point of the internode above the bud. And the cut upon the scion should begin and end at about the same points, splitting the wood in the center, bud and all, so that the points where the buds are in both come exactly together, thus having the points containing the most proto- plasm come together, forming a more rapid union. The manner of tying is shown in the cut, and the way of placing in the soil. By thoroughly firming the soU {for this I use the spade handle) at the butt of the scion and to a couple of inches above the cut, finishing with a mulch of fine loose soil or other material, the air is excluded effectually.- D. S. Mar\1n, in American Garden. Planting Tree Seeds. Acorns, Chestnuts, and Walnuts may be planted in Autumn, or kept dur- ing winter In moist sand or moss and planted in spring. Ash, Hard Maple, Box Alder, Black Cherry, ete., are better kept in moist sand during winter and sown in eariy spring. Catalpa, Birch and Ailanthus are kept dry in winter and sown in spring. Hard shelled seed, like the Locust, should be soaked in hot water before sowing in spring. Soft Maple and Elm should be sown as soon as ripe in May or early June. All the above, except Catalpa, Ailanthus and Locust, are tetter sown early, or iis soon as the ground is in condi- tion in spring. Sow evergreen seeds broadcast "(Is four feet wide, in light sandy loam; cover lightly. Shade the beds from the sun the first year, either with lath frames or brush. The seeds are sown dry. The beds must be carefully hand weeded the first and second years. The seedlings are then of proper size to be thinned out ot the beds and plante'd in nursery.— Doug- las and Sons' Catalogue. Propagating StrawberrieB. A prominent West- ern uwrseiyinan lias advanced the theory that plants from the runnei-s of an inferior plant will produce inferior fruit, regardless of the variety. To this he attributes the failure of many new varieties to meet expectations. He says: " My investigaticms have taught me that there is a great variation in different runners of the same plant. In some there is decided improvement, and these are the ones we want to breed from; but as a general thing there is a tendency to de- generation, !Ls many fine fruits which have gone out of cultivation attest. Plants which have de- generated in quality of fruit propagate faster than those of the higher qualities, and conse- quently one can observe how it is that a new variety may be ruined by sending out the roots promiscuously. For the last four years I have been marking, selecting, and throwing out plants which did not come up to the standard I de- mand."—Prairie Farmer. How to Keep Cut Flowers. When they are scarce one is more likely to take more care of them, but changing the water and putting a little ammonia in it will not do everything. It is the night-light that withei-s them the most quickly; many sorts will keep for a week if placed at night in a bowl in a cool place and covered with a cloth. In the morning return to vases (if cold water. Tropa?olums will live and bloom for a month if a long spray be broken off and placed in plenty of water. If placed in a long bottle behind a picture this plant blooms very effectively in water. Snowdrops and Daffodils picked in the bud will keep in water for three weeks. Many wild flowers are more en- during if cut in the bud. I often keep Roses for a week by gathering the buds when the first leaf is beginning to uncurl, placing them in cold water in a dark ■;■ cellar, with moss over the stalks. Al- *' most any flowei-s wiU retain their beauty ; in a dark cellar, kept in ice-water and *. moss.— English Farm and Home. » Open Air Gardening The benefits of open air exercise and diversion are not known as they should be. Full draughts of fresh air and extra physical exertion give zest to everything and anywhere. Only contrast the jollity and good humor of newsboys, out in all weathers.with the grinniiy. fidgety, cross looks and tones of the pale children of over-indulgent parents. The remedy for the latter: plain food and more oul> door exercise; fresh air is plenty all around. The woods can be brought to the df or by planting. In the garden all manner of nooks miy be created among trees, bushes, vines, and blossoming plants. Few occupations vnW beget more im- mediate interest than gardening. Even mishaps and failures help the interest. No other work offers so many enticements. The digging even should not be done by proxy; it yields complete and thorough exercise. What costs work we enjoy. How much better tastes the fruit that we raised. What beauties in every leaf and shoot trained by our own hands, while we pass by with but a glance the products of the hired gardener. Few realize the S( ilid advantages to a family to be derived from cultivating a garden. Besides being a physical and moral help, it adds to the abun- dance of one's table, both when it is most needed and in its freshest and most palatable condition. A well cultivated garden is the \ery best annex any home can have. It enlarges the household life and happiness, promoting larger joys for old and yomig alike, and within its limited enclosure are to be found such innocent and lasting delights lUH the world beyond is wholly unable to bestow. —Massachusetts Plowman. The Use of Lime. Lar^e quantities of nitrogen are coiitiiiTicil in the earth and air, and clover ab- sorbs and flxes this substance more than any other plant. When given a chance it works Ui 38 POPULAR GARDENING. November, furnish in abundant supply and most available form this essential element of food for farm crops. By applying: lime the growth and thrift of clover is increased, and thus the ^-owth and productiveness of all other crops is g-reatly im- proved; the lime indirectly is of gri'eat value, not exactly as a manure, but as a factor in pro- ducing- fertility. East of the AUeghauies the ap- plication of lime for agn-icultural purposes is much more general than west of the mountains. The method is to apply 30 to 40 bushels of un- slacked lime per acre. Some put it on the g-round after it is plowed and before planting-. The better way is to apply on the young grass in the wheat stubbles, and thus allow it to assist the young clover and thus start the process of fertilizing the land by means of this deep-rooted nitrogen absorber. The application of lime will assist the growth of clover; a good cmp of the latter will afford much of the best forage, and at the same time store up food in the soil for suc- ceeding crops.— Stockman and Farmer. Squashes and "Watermelons in Winter.— For winter use select large, late varieties of Melons, and do not pick them until the frost is about to set in, and then about a week before fully ripe, as they will then, if properly stored, ripen in about three or four weeks, after which they will retain their delicious, juicy flavor for a considei'- able length of time. They are best stored and preserved by being packed in any fine, dry sub- stance, such as bran, sawdust, chaff, oats, etc. in a large rough box, then be placed in any cool, dry, airy place, such as the cellar or woodshed, being cautious that they escape the frost. Squashes may be kept even until late in the spring. They should be carefully gathered, and no bruised or defective ones be selected. They are kept best in the cellar, and they should not be packed in heaps, but placed ou shelves, and if one row is placed so as to press u])on another, the fewer such rows the better. The Sipiash is a highly nutritious vegetable, and should not be missing on the table for at least half the year.— Farmer's Advocate. No Fruit Trees for Shade. Fruit trees in the front yard are objectionable, as the fruit drop- ping attracts flies, is unsightly, and in the way of the lawn mower. They are not permanent, as the life of even Apple trees in modern times is often less than a score of years, and of most other fruits still shorter. Land is ne\'er so val- uable that we must make the dooryard narrow or utilize it for fruit trees. The planting of shade trees around the home should be done once for a lifetime. Plant the Elm, with its graceful contour and spreading branches; the Hard Maple, for its symmetry, its dense and bril- liant autumn foliage, and the Gray Ash, with its compact form and subdued autumnal colors. and you may reasonably expect your children's children to sit under the shade of these trees. During twenty-four years more than 200 fruit trees out of a total of 400 on my farm have died after coming into full bearing, but the Elms, Maples and Ash, of which I planted twenty, are still in their youth, and will be when I am gone. Some of these trees spread more than fifty feet. Plant fruit trees in an orchard not less than 100 feet from the house, but for shade and i>erma- nency plant the varieties named, and if your grounds are large enough add Oaks, Walnuts, Catalpas, or any of the forest trees indigenous to the locality. The greatest attraction of my farm is an imitation forest lOO feet south of my house and containing less than one-fourth acre, in which I have growing some thirty trees of ten varieties, under whose shade we have trans- planted some fifty varieties of wild flowers of the neighboring woods.— W, F. Brown in Tribune. Plants in Rooms. Health in a great measure depends upon clean foliage. In a gh\ss-house there is never much dust, whereas in a living room there is always a great deal, and this suf- fices to choke every pore of the leaves. Every plant here should therefore get a tepid bath twice a week, washing both the upper and under side of the leaves, or, if the foliage is much di- vided, it should b^ syringed. It is wonderful the difference in the appearance of plants which get this loving attention, and such as lack it. I feel sure that in the growing season a thorough cleansing will oft^^-n benefit a plant more than several doses of liquid manure. Plants in rooms have to struggle against many adverse influen- ces, and need close attention both as to cleanli- ness and watering. Water so that the soil does not become close and sour; if the roots can be kept active, the top will not be likely to go wrong. During winter the soil should nearly dry out before water is given. If pans are used, keep empty now. Windows that project from the building are the best, and in such plants may be grown with success; indeed, many do al- most or quite as well in them as under a glass roof. An east aspect is the best for most things, getting the early beams of the sun and escaping its fiercest rays. Some fine-leaved plants can be kept in the dwelling the year through without injury, but the great majority must have the free open air during the wannest months of the year. Geraniums turning yellow. Fuchsia buds dropping, and other evils complained of so fre- quently, are caused by want of '' tone," brought on by the enervating influence of a too confined and vitiated atmosphere. In dwelling rooms the ventilation is regulated by the needs of the in- habitants; in othei-s the plants can be made the primary consideration. —Gardening Illustrated. THE CULINARY DEPARTMENT. Quince Preserves.- Pare and core the fruit; boil in clear water until tender; make a syrup with a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit and boil the Quinces slowly half an hour. A Peach Betty.— Kemove the skin of the Peaches. Put them whole, with layers of bread- crumbs and sugar, in a baking tin; brown the top ser\'e with a sweet or sharp hot butter sauce. Sweet Pickle Apples. With one teacup vinegar and two of sugar make a syrup, adding cinnamon and cloves. Pare and core sweet Apples, drop them in the syrup and let them cook until tender, not soft. Put in a jar and pour the syrup over them. They are ready to eat as soon as cold, and will keep any length of time. Oysters in Bacon. Procure as many slices of fat bacon— as thin as a wafer— as there are oysters; roU each oyster in a piece of bacon, fasten the ends with a skewer in such a way that the skewer can be easily removed, put the rolls into a tin, and bake in a gentle oven; when the bacon is cooked, the dish is readj"^. Vegetable Soup. Boil a soup bone until done, add to the broth boiling water to make the amount of soup wanted, and when boiling again add a half pint of Corn, a handful of Cablmge cut fine, a half pint of Tomatoes, a few Potatoes, and a few small Onions, if liked. Let boil half an hour, then stir in an egg with a spoonful of milk, pepper and salt.— Pittsburgh Dispatch. Grape Jelly.— The Grapes should be put into a preserving-pan with just enough water to pre- vent their burning; when hot rub them through a fine sieve to get out the seeds and skins; weigh the pulp, and to each pound put three-fourihs of a pound of pounded sugar; boil three-quarters of an hour. This is a good waj' of utilizing Grapes. which do not ripen well.— Rural Canadian. Pumpkin Pie.— The Pumpkin should be fine- grained and have a deep rich color. If Squash is used in place of Pumpkin the pies will have a much I'icher flavor than if made out of the vege- table by whose name they are called. Peel and cut the Squash or Pumpkin into long strips, and steam until tender; then put through a fine sieve. For each pie allow one egg, half a cupful of Squash, one cupful of boiling milk, two tea- spoonfuls each of nutmeg and cinnamon. Beat together the Squash, sugar, egg and spice; then pour on the boiUug milk, stirring all the time. Pickled Cabbage.— Cut up in shreds as many red Cabbages as you intend pickling, and place on large dishes and sprinkle common salt over; next day turn over, and the next also, so that all may be salted. Then lay the Cabbage on a sieve to drain off the superfluous wet, and pack in a stone or glass jar until nearly full. Bofl some pieces of ginger, long black pepper, a few cloves and all- spice, in best brown \inegar, and when boiled up. pour over the Cabbage, filling up each jar full. Leave tfll cold, and then tic down. The \'inegar must always cover the Cabbage up to the top. It is ready for use in about a fortnight.— C. M. D. To Cook Vegetable Oysters.— After careful cleaning aud cutting, it is put in water with a small portieln^,' forced to be as close to the glass as possil>le, and air freely on every possible op- portunity. Stir the ground between the plants often. Pelargoniums. Those that were cut down some time ago to i>e repotted. Place them in as .small pots as possible. Young plants to be shifted as necessary. Poinsettias. Treat as for Euphorbias. Give liquid manure two or three times a week, and maintain an average temperature of tJO degrees. Tabernemontanas to be placed in a warm, moist, sunny situation, and in an average temperature of 6U degrees whenever flowers are desired. Verbenas. Rooted cuttings to be potted off. As growth commences pinch out the tips of the shoots. Vincas. The seed of rosea, alba, and occulata for next season's use should be sown as soon as gathered. Violets. Treat as for Pansies, keeping down all runners and dead leaves also. T<»wards the end of the nK)nth those In frames will require to be protected at night by means of straw mats or shutters. FRUIT GARDEN ANDORCHARD. Blackberries. If not yet done, trim out the old wood. If the plants show lack of vigor, spread manure among them: this to be dug in in the spring. Cuttings of Currants, Gooseberries and Quinces put in last month to be covered with evergreen boughs as soon as the ground freeze.-* to prevent their being dis- placed h>y alternate thawing and freezmg. Currants and Gooseberries showing lack of vigor will be materially benefited by spreading manure around them, and digging it In early in the spring. Grape Vines can be pruned as soon as the leaves fall Protect wherever required by laying dowu and covering with three or foiu* Inches of earth. Grafts may be cut towards the end of the month. Tie in bunches, label, pack In sawdust and store in a cool cellar until wanted for use. Marketing. The fruit to be carefully assorted and packed. Apples in clean barrels. Pears in boxes, with each specimen wrapped in paper. Ship only first-class fruit, placing your address on each package. Raspberries. Treat as for Blackberries, The tender sorts to be covered, as advised for Grape-vines, before the ground freezes. Rubbish, such as prunings, leaves, and litter, should not be long permitted to remain around, as this fur- nishes homes for many Insect pests, as well as a har- bor for mice to make trouble for young trees. Stocks for root gi'afting should be lifted before the ground becomes frozen, and stored in cold frames. Strawberries. Mtilch with straw or salt hay as soon as the ground becomes frozen. To prevent the straw from being blown away lay poles, or throw shovels of dirt on between the rows. VEGETABLE GARDEN. Artichokes. Jerusalem to Ije lifted and stored as Po- tatoes. Green Globe to be coverei with litter or salt hay just as soon as the ground freezes. Cabbage. When growth ceases, pull and store. Se- lect a dry, sheltered spot, place the Cabbages together in rows, heads dowu, as close together as pfissible, and cover with four inches of earth. Don't cover until cold weather is at hand. A supply for immediate use may be preserved by placing tlie heads In a barrel and covering with sphag^nmu. Put In a cool, dry place. Carrots. Gather, cut off the leaves to within half au inch, and store the .same as Potatoes. Celery. Keep earthed up as long as growing weath- er remains, but before hard frosts set In it should be taken up and stored as close together as possible iu narrow trenches, ten inches wide, and of a depth suit- able to the height of the plants. Cover with shutters so placed as to shed rain, and oa the approach of colder weather cover with straw, this to be gradually increased a.s the season advances. When wanted for use. take out a quantity and pack in a box, with alter- nate layers of Sphagnum and place in cool cellar. General. As soon as a crop has been gathered, let the ground be deeply plowed. If at all possible, let a Miner Subsoil Plow follow In the wake of the common plow; this will drain, lift and break, but not turn up the subsoil, and the advantage derived by this will be apparent next season. Bean Poles to be cleared of the viues and placed under cover. Leeks. Take up and store In cold frames, by laying in the plants in an upright position. Air freely, so as toke€p them as cool as possible. Protect In severe weather by mats, straw, or shutters. Or take up and store in sand in a cool cellar. Onions. Keep in an airy situation, and quite cool. Parsnips to be lifted for early winter use, placed In pits, and covered as advised for Cabbage. For late winter and spring, leave in the ground until wanted. Rhubarb to be given a heavy dressing of manure, this to be worked In around the plants in spring. Salsify and Scorzonera. Treat as for Parsnips. Sea Kale. Cover about the end of the month with Ave or six Inches of coarse, littery manure. Spinach for early spring use to be lightly covered with straw or salt hay. Squash and Pumpkin. Keep In as dry and cool a situation as possible, but guard against frost. Tools. Clean and oil thoroughly and place away for another season's use. Rejtair and repaint all that re- quire it, at the earliest opportunity. Turnips sliould be gathered on the approach of se- vere weather, stored In pits and gradually covered to the depth of five or six inches. For immediate use store in barrels In a cool cellar. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER CLASS. Asparagus roots to be lifted and stored in cold frames, where they can be got at when wanted. Figs in boxes or tubs to be stored in a cool, dry cel- lar before freezing weather sets in. Tho.se to lie forced in the warm grapery may now be brought In. Grapery. Keep the late houses as dry and cool as possible; air freely. Rem' early houses the vines may now be started into growth. Increase the heat very gradually. Mulch the borders well with coarse littery manure before cold weather sets In, In order to keep them from freezing. Lettuce may yet be procured from cold frames These should be well ati-ed, and well protected from frost by means of mats, shutters, etc. For later u.se the growing plants should be given an average tem- perature of 35 degrees. Air freely on all favorable oc- casions. Plants in cold frames to be wintered over should not be protected except in severe storms. Scatter tobacco stems around and among the plants to keep the green fly In subjection. Pine Apple in fruit to be given a warm, moist at- mosphere. Young plants to be given a moderately dry atmosphere, from 55 to 60 degrees of heat. Rhubarb. Treat as directed for Asparagus. Strawberries in pots to be plunged In cold frames before freezing weather sets in. Water sparingly. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. In Poultry matters many mistakes are com- mitted by hiiving more than one variety of fowls. We refer now especially to beginners and to those who enj^ajje in tue work as a side interest. Old Newspapers i>asted on the walls of the poultry house, sugrg-ests the Mirror and Farmer, make an excellent lining for the inside. Put them on with ordinary tlour paste, and when the paper is dry give it a coating of tliick whitewash. When the weather becomes warm next season remove the paper, as lice may find snug places for concealment. A Good Point. When you desire to do alJ in your power to induce layinjr, remember that hens lay— /ia(»ra//y. All thatcahbedonctohcli'tlii-ni do this is to supply the proper materiuls mit of which egtrs and their slu'lls nia.\' be created, und stimulate thi- process perhaps by oxtra care, bet- ter LjuarttTs, und an increase of first-class feed in variety. They must ha\e good shelter. They should be fed with sound grains, animal f(^)oa, cooked vegetables, and green provender regu- larly. Gravel, lime, bone, shells and such sub- stances shoidd be provided, so that they can i-at as much as they neetl (if either, at tticir Icisuic. Clean nests, dry dusting-boxes, clear, f n-sli water. and occasionally butchers' scraps or cooked offal is what they crave. These all a'^sist them t gn.w tlu'iu, for they never give satisfaction in common soil.— A. H. E. 465. Pruning Swarf Fears, We have for some years practiced pruning in our dwarf Pear trees about the last of October, or as soon as the foliage has dropped. It is asserted by some that, during winter, there is danger of injury to the terminal bud where such cuts are made; but we have never found any such result. We have, however, lost many a growth from the last bud, when we have cut in a tree in spring; and generallj' be- cause of the bud being full at the time, and the fresh cut opening an exhaustive receiver, as it were, in the air, thus drying out and destroying it. The cut made in the fall, as early as possible, but after active \igor has left the bud. leaves time for the wood to dr.v and harden prepai-atory to the spring pushing. Another reason for fall- pruning is that there is generally more time at command, and the work will be performed with greater care and judgment. 468. Protecting Shrubs, etc. Plants near the ground may be covered with leaves or hay; but shrubs and climbing \-ines will need different management. When evergreen boughs can be had without much trouble they may be used to good advantage. This work should, if possible, be done before the ground freezes, so that the ends of the boughs may be stuck into the ground to keep them in place during the winter; when this cannot be done, they will need to be tied to- gether to keep them. Some who cannot readily get such boughs may get straw more easily, and it can be used to eipial advantage. Bind and tie it around the plant in such a way as to protect it both from the extreme cold by night and the heat of the sun by day. It is not generally the ex- treme cold that kills the tender or half-liardy tree or plant, but the alternations of heat and' cold. Then, when so protected, the plantsare less liable tm- ingtime. If you started them now thc'\ would take longer to" come into bloom. As oiit-ol-dnor Lilies I never have found any difference |}etween the Harris and the common Trumpet Lily as re- gards hardiness; none of the race is extra hardy, but with a gni>d mulching over their roots they should surviNc iirettj- hard winters. But as they have a tendency to pioiiuce bulbs all along their stems underground, you had better lift and re- plant all your Tiiimpet Lilies every two or three years in order to keep the bulbs away from near the surface of the ground, hence beyond the in- jurious influences of frost.— W. F.iLCONER. 493. Chrysanthemam Leaves Failing. The Chrysanthemums were put into the house too early. The fli-st week in October, as a rule, is quite soon enough, and the following directions should have been observed in housing them:— 1st. The house should have been thoroughly cleansed of all dirt, leaves etc., that may have accumulated during the summer, and if not painted, a very good plan to adopt is to well wa.sh all glass and woodwork with some cleansing substance. 2d. The plants should not be housed on a wet day, or when the foliage is wet with rain or dew. If you do you are sure to have mildew appear. M. If mildew does appear, slightly dust with flowers of sulphur. I should therefore advise L. E. C. to pull off a few of the lower leaves from his plants, then slightly dust them with flowers of sulphur. If the house is heated with pipes, a very little of the flowers ot sulphur can be put on the pipes and a Are lighted, and every light thrown open at the same time; this will soon dry up all damp- ness.—A. H. E. 478. Keeping Vegetables. Those intended for table use through the \rinter should be so cared for that they will not shrivel, but retain even freshness. Turnips.Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, and the like, may be covered with sand and kept fresh. Many vegetables are nearly ruined by be- ing stored in cellars heated by a furnace. This should never be allowed. It is better never to store such things in a cellar under a house, but in a cool place, either under the barn, or else- where convenient to the bouse. The cooler they are kept, the better, if they do not freeze. 447. Troublesome Grass in Lawn. Early in spring rake and roll thoroughly, then apply a heavy dressing of Henderson's lawn fertilizer. Avoid short cutting; mow frequently but allow the grass to remain as long as possible. A dress- ing of well decayed stable manure could be ap- pUed this fall with benefit.— C. E. Paknell. 491. Tuberous Begonia Culture. The culture of Tuberous Begonias does not present any diffl- culty to any one having a fair knowledge of or- dinary plants. Their season is now over. During winter the tubei's may be stored under the stage of the greenhouse. Lay the pots on their sides to prevent drip from above saturating the soil. During the early spring months they ought to be watered, and as so* in as it is seen that some growth has been made, shake out the tubers and pot them in any good soil, such as is frequently rec- ommended for Pelargoniums, Chinese Primulas, Cinerarias, etc.,— good loam four or five parts, decayed stable-manure one luirt, Icaf-mnld one part, and some rough sand added to it. A ci-lc- iirated Begonia grower showed nic the potting- soil his firm use for their prize Begonias some time since, and it was very similar material to that which I have described. Do not give the plants very much water in the early stages of their growth, but as the pots become filled with roots they require a liberal supply. Place the plants near the glass where they have a free ad- mission of air without being exposed to cold draughts. They are really indoor plants, requir- ing corresponding treatment, but they may be started in a forcing house early in the year to give early bloom. — A. H. H. 506. Everbearing Strawberry. We know of no " Everbearing " Strawberry that yields even a f au- second crop, and that agent is a fraud. Let him alone.— A. M. P. 427. Keeping Grape Seed, etc. (a) Put Grape seed in dry sand till ready to sow. ib) We pre- fer planting Raspberries in fall and banking over them with earth, and drawing this away in early spring by running over with harrow.— A. M. P. 481. Wax Plant Management. The Wax Flower (Hoya carnnsa) requires plenty of heat and moist- ure during the flowering season, but in winter should be kept coo] and with only moisture enough to preserve its thick fleshy leaves in a fresh state. It will not stand frost, but need not have a winter heat higher than 45 degrees at night, or from ,50 to 00 in daytime. It is subject to mealy bug and aiihis, and when they appear they should be washed off with warm soa()-suds and" a brush, drenching the plant afterwards with clear water. In summer this plant delights in the strongest heat, and plenty of sunshine. Treated thus the second season it will give bloom, and annually. It is usually trained to a trellis, though we have seen most handsome plants tied to a stake and massed back and forth thereon and tied together. There are several species, one with variegated leaves, but the deep green variety is undoubtedly the best.— A. H. E. 484. Caring for and Planting Bulbs. The bulbs and tubei's .von name should be taken uj) after the first keen frost, and after ha\ing the top removed dry them thoroughly in the shade. Gladiolus and Oxalis should then be stored in paper bags in a dry jilaee where no frost comes. Danlias may be better keptin a cold cellar suited to keeping Potatoes. Caladium and ('anna mots do best for being stored in dry sand in any cool place where it does not freeze. Concerning the planting of Tulips, etc., see article in September issue.— A. H. E. .501. Cedar from Seed. The Red Cedar (Jhiujj- eTusCauadcnsU), to which we think you refer, can be propagated from seed, but the hard and bon.v shell of which you speak must be softened by some chemical apiilication, or the seed will sel- dom germinate until the second year, even when exposed to frost or keiit constantly moist. A. S. Fuller in his new work on propagation has this to say of treating them: " The usual method is to gather the seed in the fall when fully ripe, and either mix with strong, moist wood ashes, or pour some strong potash water over them, leav- ing them to soak and soften two or three days; then nilj the bcn-ics, using a httle sharp sand, until the niitcr oat is removed. Wash out the sand and shells, and sow immediately in a bed in the open air, covering about half an inch deep. Mulch for the winter with light material, and this should be removed in the following spring. If then the plants appear, protect them from the direct rays of the sun, but if they fail to come up return tlie mulch and wait another year. Most of the Junipers, including the Hed Cedar, may be propagated by cuttings of the young .shoots planted in sand under gUiss, or of mature wood taken off in the fall and set in cold frames, to be slightly protected in winter. 473. Foreign Grape Culture. The following on this subject is from a former article that ap- peared in this journal : The best of all cold-house Grapes for common culture is the famous Black Hamburg variety. It has large shouldered or branching bunches and large, sweet, rich berries. Where twenty vines are to be set, at least a dozen should be of this sort. Of other fine varieties for the amateur we recommend the following: liUich or j)ivill permit. The trenches may be in sections ten or twelve feet long in order that in opening the air need not come to all at once. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATB DONE HER PART; DO TBOU BUT THINE."— Kiltos. Vol. III. IDECTBlidlBEia, 18 87. No. 3. Announced by all the trumpets of the sky, Arrives the snow, and. driving o'er the fields, Seems nowhere to alight. . . The housemates sit A-round the ra which has been m an open box in my celler that has been kept by a simple inexpensive process. They were sent to me, near two months ago, and since out of their proper element seem to keep about as weU as mine here of 1887. I believe in the thing, and if we can keep Apples, Pears and Grapes over the year without ice, it will be a good thing. A good cave or cellar is necessary, the rest is simple, easy and not much expense. It is not patented, but all who procure a right are bound by a bond of secrecy. Clearing Land for Fruit Raising. It is a common practice in most places to cut down the large trees, leaving the stumps stand, and burning the leaves. This is not the proper plan however, and will not hold out in the way of convenience and utility afterwards. No leaves should be burned, but they should be carefully saved and ploughed under. But all the brush and small chips, as well as the stumps should be burnt and the ashes evenly spread over the ground. To burn the leaves much of the fertilizing material goes off in smoke, while if covered with soil it is all retained. Here when we clear new land the common price is 1.30 per acre, and 3.5 cents for each additional tree a foot or more in diameter at the base. But then the trees are all grubbed out by the roots to a depth of 18 or '20 inches; then plowed and subsoiled to that depth. Come will say that this would make expensive land, but let me give an instance of the result of such work. A Profitable Vineyard on New Land. A friend of mine near Hermann, Mo., was clearing a three-acre piece, when I asked him what he intended planting on it? He said Martha Grape-vines, and said I should visit the place in a few years. In their fourth year I did visit that Martha vineyard, in the beginning of September, and I never in my fifty year's observations saw anything like it. The vines had made a good growth and had an enormous crop of splendid bunches as clean and bright as a new pin. Now said the owner, who was in great glee, come and I will show you my patch of Martha cuttings taken from these same vines. He had some fifteen or twenty thousand I supposed.which at that time sold for $1 per root. Turning to me, he remarked; "You raised that Grape, Mr. Miller, but I will make more money out of it than you will." He told the truth then. Three months after that on meeting him again I asked him what he made out of the Grapes. He said *l,.5ti0, and that he sold the young plants for *1,.tOO more. Here was ^^,000 from three acres in one year, prepared as above stated. This shows what can be done when the proper pre- parations are made. I have known vine- yards here prepared in the same way that have born good crops (not excepted) for twelve years, without a handful of any kind of fertilizer, except the leaves of the vines and the cuttings cut fine and plowed in. Crops in Vineyards and Orchards. It is a common thing to cultivate crops in a 44 POPULAR GARDENING. December, young vineyard the first year. Potatoes is the usual one, and it is a bad practice, for we know that the Potato takes potash in its food largely, which the vines need. I grow nothing in a young orchard or vine- or two-thirds way through its diameter. This done a week or more before the cutting is finally taken off, and it vrill then be found in a condition to root very easily by the pot system described, and with about every o r d in a r y possibility of de- caying removed. A Cutting Pot well arranged. Treating a Cutting to Harden it. yard (except something new) unless I have the means to return in the way of manure to make up for the tax on the soil. Many a young orchard has been ruined before it got a start in life, and many more go down when they should be in the prime of life .just for the want of proper food and cultivation. Quite recently I saw a Winesap tree with the finest Apples of its kind I ever met with, where the roots run under a hog pen. They were nearly black, and I have a specimen of them now that measures nearly twelve inches in circumference. Several Points in Plant Propagation. A common trouble met in the rootiug of slips is that of damping off or else the rotting away of the part beneath the surface of the sand in which they are set. The cause for this is not difficult to understand, as we con- sider that usually the most suitable part of a plant for slipping is the young tender ends of the growing shoots. These being of a succulent, comparatively watery nature, to place them into sand that is rather damp is quite like inviting decay, unless the condi- tions for inducing rooting and growth are in other respects decidedly favorable. To overcome the tendency to decay alluded to, the method of pot propagation shown on this page is of advantage. It is not a new method, but has long been in use by florists. It should find more general use with ama- teurs, and especially in rooting the more succulent kinds of cuttings, .such as tri- colored or any Geraniums, Fuchsias, etc., throughout the winter season. The main idea is the use of a small inner pot in the center of a large pot, and to cause a narrow ring of sand between the two, in which to insert the cuttings. The water can be applied to the sand through the inner pot, thus preventing washing and packing on the surface. By providing drainage as shown in this cross-section, consisting of pot- sherds, charcoal, or washed cinders, with a layer of Sphagnum directly underneath the sand, the freest opportunity for the passing off of excessive moisture is provided. The cuttings should be placed in the sand as shown in the engraving, keeping them either in a single line or else in several lines. Not only by this means is the sand relieved of any excess of wetness that might induce decay, but from the general position of the cuttings, the air has a chance to circulate among and even beneath these in a way that utterly forbids the presence of stagnant air about them, as might be the case were they massed closely together as is done in the ordinary cutting bed. The right hand figure of the two is de- signed to show how cuttings that are decidedly succulent may be prepared to root with comparative ease and with the danger of decay reduced to a minimum. This consists of cutting a niche into its side, at the point where it should later be severed (a in the engraving), and to extend one-half The Nectarine Peach. This fine fiavored September Peach possesses several dis- tinct characteristics to render it interesting in its class. The fruit, of large size, has the re- markable form shown in our engraving of terminating in a nipple. Its other striking pe- culiarity is that of having but little down on the skin, being in this respect quite smooth like a Nectarine, hence its name. In color the skin of the Nectarine Peach is yellow, with a bright mottled red on the side next to the sun; the suture well defined, particularly near the nipple. The flesh is semi-transparent, and vrith a brilliant red stain round the stone, from which it sepa- rates, leaving some strings behind it. It is melting, very richly flavored, and with a fine racy smack. The stone has a tendency to split, and the kernel has a mildly bit- ter taste. Flowers large; glands kidney- shaped. This Peacli was first brought to notice in 1868, having been raised by the famous Thomas Rivers from seed of the Grand Noir imported from Holland. It is ottered in the catalogues of several American nurserymen. Double Buds on Grape-vines. D. L. MARVIN, WATERTOWN, N. V. Many persons have observed that Grape- vines often develop double, thrible, and oc- casionally quadruple buds, yet few have studied the cause of vines expending so much apparently useless energy and waste of vital force. If I should say that vines had intelligence and forethought I would perhaps be laughed at. But when we study into why several buds appear when one would usually answer every purpose, we see that there really is such a thing as design manifested here. Two kinds of buds are developed by vines, leaf buds to carry on the functions of the plant, and fruit buds to per- petuate the species, but both sets of leaves and every other function of the plant has but one object, that is to grow seeds. Nature's primary object always. There are many secondary objects which are of vast importance to man and animals. For in- stance clothing the seeds with a pulpy envelope to feed the animal world, giving the skin bright and attracting colors to attract the birds, so they will feed upon them and then carry the seeds in their crops to distant places and drop them to clothe Nature's waste places. But now how could the primary object of germs be produced if an untimely frost should kill the single buds ? an occur- rence that does really hap- pen more or less every year, for Grapes are found wild as far north as Ottawa, Canada. When the buds are killed upon most plants, that is the end of the fruit, for although ordinary plants will develop and push out what are called adventitious buds, such are always leaf buds and never fruit buds. So there is the necessity for the plant under these hard conditions to provide for such untimely accidents or become exter- minated. It is herein that we see why it is that Grape-vines have developed several fruit buds at each node on bearing canes. We may give this beneficent provision of the vine whatever name we please, we can- not help but see that there has been fore- thought upon the part of the vine to provide for such emergencies as the untimely frosts of spring. It often actually happens that a frost comes when the shoots are several inches long and they are all killed, and it is then we see the reason for and the wisdom of providing the dormant buds for tender plants, which immediately push out and de- velop fruit with germs just as perfect as the ones that would have been developed by the primary buds that were destroyed by frost. A Talk About the Single Dahlias. W. A. MANDA, BOTANIC GARDENS, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. . Dahlia Hi.stort. Single Dahlias are by no means new; we had them as long ago as 1789 when the two first species, the Dahlia superflora and Dahlia frustranea were in- troduced into Europe. Naturally they were single and not much prized on that account. In cultivation those two primitive species got mixed and passed under the name of Dahlia variabilis, a name that still holds good among gardeners. Under cultivation the Dahlia soon improved in size, shape, and color, although the gardeners had only two colors at the time, namely, purple in D. superflua and scarlet in D. frustranea. With time the varieties increased, especi- ally the double ones, until of late they have arrived at their perfection as to shape and size, but the colors are never so bright and rich as in the single forms. Lacking this last quality, and like everything else that is brought to its maximum and where there is no chance for a marked improvement, so the Double Dahlia is going out of fashion and the single forms are gaining favor in the last foxir or five years. That the Single Dahlias should crowd aside the double ones cannot be wondered at, for the single has many pomts of super- iority over the others. In the first place it is more floriferous, the tlowers stand out gracefully over the foliage, and when cut they are very useful for vases or large THE NECTARINE PEACH. bouquets, for which use the double forms are too clumsy. The colors now are also much more distinct and numerous, for, with the exception of blue and green, all the colors imaginable are to be found in this section, and the rich velvety colors are well set oft' by the bright golden disk. All these qualities referred to were lost in the double 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 45 kinds, and it is only now, after nearly a oentury of Dahlia culture, that we gladly I urn liack again to the single form. SiMiLK Dahlias Classified, Etc. The many new and beautiful varieties that have within the last few years been raised may he divided into ditferent classes as follows, namely, the .Show, Pefection, Reflexed and Stellate varieties. The Show kinds have large oblong and Hat petals, and some flowers of this section measure as much as seven inches in diameter. The Perfection varieties are of medium size, the petals are broadly oblong, slightly reflexed at the ends and generally of very good substatice. Tlie Reflexed section com- prises flowers with nearly round petals, which are much reflexed at the end, aiul usually of good colors and substance. The Stellate kinds are dis- tinguished by their long petals, which are reflexed on the sides, thus fonuing a loose flower of various sizes and not quite as good sub- stance as the foregoing sections. Again as to color we can diviutti',the leaves of which are shown on the light-hand side of the cut (2. ) The graft was suc- cessful, and some time after- wards a shoot with leaves partly green, partly golden, issued fi'om the stock bcUiw the graft, and this also is shown in the lower part of the engraving. A summary of our knowl- edge on this point is given in Burbidge's "Cultivated Plants," a book we should like all young gardeners to be thoroughly well versed in. Darwin, in his "Animals and Plants under Domesti- cation," also mentions nu- merous similar cases, the most generally known be- ing that cited by Bradley, in which the stock of a .lasmine threw out varie- gated shoots clearly below the point of union, after having been budded or grafted with a variegated scion. In former days, when fluids only were supposed to pass from one closed plant cell to another (through the porous membrane), the difficulty of accounting for such phenom- ena was greater than it is now, when we know that not only liquids pass thus from cell to cell, but that the protoplasm — the living fonnative material of plants— itself, in some cases at least, passes through min- ute apertures from cell to cell, thus estab- lishing the " continuity of protoplasm." Fall Application of Makure. Our recent article on this subject brought out the following practical ideas from D. N. L., Erie Co., N. Y. The difference in effects from manure apjilied in the fall or the folhnvinj.' spring i.s remarkable, amounting in some instances to as much as thi'ee times the benefit to the crop of the coming summer. The fact is that the best effects from spring applied maniu'c is not visible until the second summer after, entailing a great delay. For the N(^rth the best time to apply manure in nearly every kind of culture is as long before April as practical, so that the spring rains can carry down the fertilizing properties to where the roots can use them. On any but very sandy soils, the loss by leaching is insignificant. An- other advantage from winter manuring in many cases is the benefits as a mulch to existing crops. 46 POPULAR GARDENING. December, Notes From a Rochester Fruit Farm. CHARLES A. GREEN. PiCKlSG Apples. Northern Spy. We picked our winter Apples .about October 1st, and it is well we did so, for heavy winds came soon after that would have blown off many. We left the Spy unpicked the longest, as that holds on best having a long stem, and often being hung to a limber twig. The Spies are magnificent and an enormous crop. They are a beautiful sight, all finely colored. The Spy is a profitable Apple here, where it succeeds better than in most places, this be- ing near where it originated. It is a native of East Bloomfield, N. Y., one of our best fruit sections, and was introduced by Ell- wanger & Barry I believe. It is of good quality as well as handsome, but varies greatly with the season. Some years it is large, fair and red, while others it is green and knotty. No one can account for these vagaries, which are peculiar to all fi'uits to a more or less noticable extent. We have a large orchard, all Baldwin. I wish half were Spies. Joseph Harris has a Spy orchard near Rochester, from which he has sold in Eng- land at $ia per barrel. His neighbor sold an orchard of apples, unpicked, for .$"2,000. LucRETiA Dewberry. I cannot think this will be popular as a market variety; and for the home garden it will be objected to on account of inferior flavor, being e.\- ceedlingly sour. It is a large handsome berry, and the bush will occupy less room than the large growing kinds. Without support it sprawls over ground like a Grape- vine. Tied to a stake It presents an attractive appearance. I should not risk it uncovered in winter at the Northwest, but is easily covered, lying so close to the earth. The best BlackbeiTy for us is the Taylor (Taylor's Prolific.) The flavor is superior, berry large size, plants hardy and vigorous, canes green- ish yellow, and easily identified on this account. Stone's Hardy and Snyder are also valuable hardy varieties. Willows on River Bank.s. The Honeoye Creek ran the length of my father's farm, and when a boy I noticed the inroads made by the freshets on the crumbling banks, valuable land being removed each season, to be carried down the current to build up land for some one else. A feeble attempt to stay the damage was made by placing stone along the shore. It did not occur to us that cuttings of the Willow stuck in rows along the shore would accomplish a better purpose at one hundredth part of the cost. Willow cuttings (Osier, or almo.st any kind will answer) should be cut in the spring before leaf growth commences. They may be made a foot long, and as large around as a lead pencil, or, in many instances, of large limbs cut three or four feet long, sharpened wedge shaped (not pointed like a pencil), and driven in one or two feet. These will at once take root, and in a few years not only protect the shores by numeroxis fibrous roots, but be- come a thing of beauty. "Rliere the wash of water is unusually severe sods of Quack Grass have been used with good results, especially about mill-dams, but this pest should be avoided if possible, as enough branches of roots may become disengaged to stock the neighboring country. Even the branches of Willows floating in the current, become imbedded in the muddy shore, trans- planting themselves, but without injury. There are fifty varieties of American Willows, varying in size from a few inches in height to lOO feet. They belong to the same natural order as the Poplars, but differ in structure. The bark of the young shoots has been used as a substitute for quinine. Baskets, ropes, cloth and a variety of other articles are mentioned as made from the Willow. The timber is valuable for many purposes, ilw charcoal for use in making giinpowder and for painter's crayons. Attractions of Fruit Culture. I am more and more impressed with the fact that few ruralists can make better use of their land than by planting it to fruit. I be- lieve that every honest nurseryman (and I have found but few dishonest; it is the dis- honest agents that give erroneous impres- sions) who sells a bill of trees or vines is do- ing a good work, beautifying and enriching the earth. I received a letter yesterday from a poor man in Massachusetts who says he has sold .^SO worth of berries from one-fourth of an acre, and that he can scarcely credit the fact himself. In a few localities the business of growing fruit may be overdone, but where there is one such there are thous- ands where the supply is short of the de- mand. My neighbor says he gets '200 barrels of Apples yearly from his orchard of one and one-half acres. If he sold the fruit for fifty cents per barrel on the tree, in place of *1.00 to SI. .50, he would be making money. There are instances here where a small orchard has annually paid the interest on the entire farm of 100 acres. Pears and other like fruits do not sell at the fabulous prices of old times, but we have learned how to secure larger and finer crops, how to find new markets, and Pear orchards continue profitable. But I always find that the great- est profit has been secured where the great- est skill has been employed. I was recently told how a fruit grower was succeeding in Orleans County. When I learned how long he had been at work, how he had mastered all details, what good cul- ture lie bestowed, how well he assorted, how attractive his packages, I could not help feeling that he deserved success. And when men deserve success they generally get it. The ne'er-do-wells are usually those who ex- pect success to come without effort on their part. Micawber like they are waiting for something to turn up, in place of turning something up with such force as to com- mand attention and respect. Black Knot in the Plum. I am often asked what remedy I can suggest for the black knot. There is only one remedy and that is to cut off the affected branch at the earliest possible moment. Push out of your shop or office as promptly on learning of a visit of the black knot in your Plum orchard as you would if notified that your bees were swarming, or the pigs were in the corn. Lose not a moment, and when cut burn with dispatch every branch or twig infested. This disease is caused by fungi, live plants too minute to be discerned with the naked eye. In the early stages of growth the fun- gus is not propagated, but later it sheds its seeds to the winds, carrying death in its path. During winter much damage may occur by permitting the black knot to remain on the trees. Look over the Plum trees now and remove every affected branch. L^sually the black knot is not cut off early enough in its growth. As a preventive I recommend good culture and applications of yard ma- nure. Well fed and cultivated trees resist attacks which woiild destroy feeble trees. Strawberry Notes. M. H. BECKWITH, NEW YORK STATE FARM, GENEVA. CoviUe'>i Early was the earliest variety in our trial beds this season. The fruit is a dull red color, with very prominent seeds; medium in size. Its earltness is its only recommendation. E.rcclKhir, a new variety received from the originator, E. M. Beuchley, yielded some very fine fruit upon plants set last August. Berries resemble the Glendale in shape and size; very dark scarlet color, fairly firm, excellent flavor. May King is an excellent berry for family use; fruit large, very spicy and agreeable flavor; rather soft for shipping. Jumbo is identical with the Cumberland. James Vick blossomed very profusely but only a very small percentage of the blossoms produced fruit. WHien allowed to become fully ripe the berries are sweet and of delicious flavor. Sharplcsn still holds its own and is a uni- versal favorite in this section on account of its large size. Ontario. The foliage and fruit of this variety resembles the Sharpless very much. The berries are of a more uniform shape than the Sharpless. An unnamed very late variety, received from R. S. .Johnston, did not begin to ripen until the other varieties were nearly all ripe. The berries resemble the Cornelia in appear- ance, the flesh is very soft, the flavor is delicious. The plant has a very dwarf, though vigorous habit of growth. The under side of the foliage has a downy appearance. I do not consider it of any special value. A Michigan Peach Orchard and District. The fruit farm of Mr. J. A Pearce, six miles northeast of Grand Rapids, Mich., is thus described: Not many years ago the site of this suc- cessful farm was purchased at ?.5 per acre by the present owner, with 20 acres cleared, and a Peach orchard, of seven acres, begin- ing to bear. He has been on the place now five years, and has 25 acres in a Peach orchard, from which he expects this year a crop of about 1,000 bushels. There are about 3.000 Peach trees. He finds Peaches do the best on his soil. He fertilizes them with all the ashes he can get. This he obtains from town. It retards the ripening and keeps the ground moist and firm. The neighborhood in which Mr. Pearce's farm is located is a Peach-growing section. Among those having extensive orchards near him are Thos. Beale, 2,(.KX) trees; W. O. Braman, about 3,000 trees; Wm. Chambers, 2,000; C. E. Lucas, 3,000 or over; D. Osborn, 4,000; the Hopkins fai-m, over 4,000; P. Bird, 1,.500; Thomp.son Hill, 1,000; A. E. Hoag, 1,200; J. Spaulding, 1,000; J. Miller, 1,000: B. Murray, 1,000, and Chas. BisseU, 4,000. Mr. Pearce has also a vineyard of three acres, containing the Worden Grape prin- cipally, with the Delav/are, Concord, and Agawam, and small fruit in considerable quantities. Strawberries, Raspberries, Cher- ries, Plums, and Pears. Mr. Pearce expects to be able to market not far from six t«ns of Grapes this year. Two knolls to the west and south protect the place from the pre- vailing winds of winter, and afford favor- able locations, the one for a vineyard, the other for a Peach orchard. While Mr. Pearce believes that cultivation is of great value to the Peach and if con- tinued assiduously would ward off the seri- ous effects of drought, stiU judgment must be used to obtain, if possible, a steady healthy growth, that the wood may ripen properly, to avoid winter killing. One and a half to two feet of wood was a good growth on a young tree and he should desire to restrain beyond that. He grows wood one year to bear fruit the next and aims not to overgrow but to ripen a healthy growth in good condition for the fruit bearing of the next year. Pruning was apt to stimulate a new growth, which would be found killed back the next spring. Neighbor Koon, another gi-ower, when asked what varieties are the best for a proper succession replied: Alexander. Beatrice, Hale, Barnard, Early Crawford, Richmond, Mountain Rose, Old Nixon, Hill's Chili, Smock, in that order. With the Barnard's and Early Crawford comes the rush of ripen- ing and the glut of the market. The Rich- mond was a better bearer than the Early Crawford. The Hale was most liable to 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 47 winter kill, altliousjli with aiKither snil t\w result niiKlit be diirerent. Mr. Kooii thinned all his fruit but the Karly Crawford to about four inches apart, but thought live was better. He believed in the profitableness of thinniiiK; that you haod crop the ne.xt year. His experience was that desired results were not obtained unless the thinning was dune early. Fruit Bleaching Condemned. JOEL W. .SMITH, M. D., KLOVD Cd.. HAVA. It should be stopped by enlightened public sentiment and by stringent laws. In Popi'- LAI5 Gardening for November A. M. Purdy, of Palmyra, N. Y., says: "We use brimstone (sulphur) in bleaching Apples and all kinds of fruit." The majrevails against it is reducing the consumption of dried fruit immensely. Take it in my own family, and in many others that have come under my notice, they have nearly discarded the white or sulphur bleached dried Apples and other fruits as far as we knew it was done. Consequently where our family formerly used about a barrel of No. I dried Ajjples — those evapor- ated rapidly preferred to slow or sun dried- each year, we have latterly almost ceased to use them, and simply because it has be- come almost impossible to obtain good wholesome umloctoixd fruit. Whiteness is not so desirable a quality sis healthfulness and honest dealing. Besides rapid drying, and mostly in the dark, will produce a very light colored fruit. Close ob- servers know that the unbleached fruit has the best flavor. Plain jelly, made from various fruits, but mostly from Apples is a most wholesome as well as clieaj) article, usually made direct from fi-esh cider, but is also terribly adul- terated in some of the larger cities. It is no longer a secret either as to the extent and character of the fraud. There are other de- ceptions, and perhaps equally bad, but which I must omit to even mention. Public health is public wealth, and should be guarded in respect to all food to the extent of avoiding even the appearance of evil as far as passible. Fruit Notes from Central Ohio. While eating Apples to-tlay from Connec- ticut and Michigan we were led to consider some of the advantages of railroad trans- portation, and the blessings that some parts of tlie coimtry produces fruit abundantly one year while other parts prcjduce none. This section will not average one bushel of winter Ap])les to the orch,-ird; «'e rely wholly upon other States for our supply this year. Of Pears, the crop was abundant. Peaches only a partial crop. Small fruits were a heavy crop. The prospects for a full crop of the latter another season is not very flatter- ing, especially Strawberries. This dry sea- son has been hard on them; old beds scarcely producing any new plants, and new beds, unless set very early, have not made much of a matted row. It being so dry. even up to the present, that runners have only partially rooted, there will necessarily be a scarcity of plants for the trade in the spring; and also of Kaspberries, from the fact that the hot weather blackened nearly all of the tips before they were long enough to set in the ground for plants. It is true that Kaspberries and Blackber- ries will not stand so nuich cold when the ground is dry as when it is wet, for then the chances are greater tliat they may get win- ter killed. A. M. N., Licking Co., O. Some Flowers Reported on From Pansy Park. F. W. GOODELL, DWIOHT, MA.SS. Maiiijoid (lolil NiiiKirt, .sent out last spring by an English firm as a remarkably tine dwarf with large tlowers. is not worth cultivating. Flowers small and i)oor and not one in twenty comes double. French Muriijoht Biittfrflij, sent out by the same firm, is elegant when true, the flowers being bright yellow, each petal evenly edged with maroon, but it needs several years more of selection to fix its character, as only two or three plants in a hundred come double. TropO'Dl tun Lo)iliia nu)fi. Perhaps it may not be generally known that this is the best of the climbing Tropieolums for outdoor cul- ture. The flowers are more bi-illiant and more freely produced than the common T. majus. A trellis about a 100 feet long has been ablaze with them for several months. Dinihlc Esi'lioltziux. There is no such thing as a good double Escholtzia, the near- est to it being an occasional plant Ijearing flowers with a double row of jjetals. Pontcili'Tln cnisyi IK'S major is a new and most desirable addition to aquatic plants. T. crassipes seldom flowers under cultiva- tion, but this variety blooms freely in shal- low water. The flowers are of a rosy lilac color, about two inches across and produced in spikes like a Hyacinth. It is also very interesting from a botanical point. The stems of the leaves have curious bulb-like oval enlargements in the middle filled with air, which enables the whole plant to float. The plants produce runners much like a Strawberry plant, and new plants with re- markable rapidity. A single plant set in my acquatic garden in June has covered a space six feet across with a mass of 'MO plants. Papaver pavunhun or Pcucock Puppy, in- troduced from Europe with a lengthy and glowing description, is a humbug. It is a native of Turkestan. The plant makes a slender growth from six inches to a foot tall, and the flowers, instead of being of a bril- liant scarlet as described, are of a dull red, of small size and no beauty. The "Running Out" of Varieties Considered. One of the liest papers read tjefore the recent meeting of the American Pomological .Society in Boston was that of J. M. Smith, Green Bay, Wisconsin, on "The Deteriora- tion of our Small Fruits." Mr. Smith asked the question, Is deteriora- tion a necessity? He said that Nature im- proves very slowly throughout the vegetable kingdom, and he thinks there is no reason for believing that our wild Strawberries are any better or worse than they were 2,000 years ago. Under certain conditions they may have disappeared from certain places, only to reappear again later. If they are annihilated it is for some sufficient cause, but not by the Creator. But if we do improve a variety will the improvement remain? Many varieties have failed; was this neces.sary? Mr. Smith asked what is an improved Strawberry plant and answered his question by saying that it was the result of a much higher cultivation, or perhaps civilization, than it could receive in nature. His experience showed that if you keep up a proper standard of high culture and judicious treatment there would be no deterioration. Many new varieties are petted to the last degree, making a magnificent showing in plant grf)wth as well as in fruit, and then they pass to the treatment that ordinary cultivators can bestow, and because this is not congenial, they fail. If we allow a Strawberry to bear fruit, and then plant the weakly, dwarfed runners that it pro- duces, we cannot hope for a healthy, vigor- ous continuation of the variety. Mr. Smith considered the Wil.son an illus- tration of the fact that varieties did not run out. Originated nearly 40 years ago, it is still a popular variety in many sections, and in his own experience still the most profitable variety he could grow. Although it originated so long ago and was the pioneer market Strawberry, doing more to popular- ize this fruit than all other kinds put togeth- er, it was yet the standard of comparison, and had never been beaten in yield per acre. In the speakers own successful growing of the Wilson, since IWil, he has found two requisites necessary, (hie was rich land, the other to be planted alone under favora- ble circumstances; the fruit-producing ca- pacity of the Wilson was so great as to leave it little strength to maintain itself in com- petition with varieties which produce light crops of fruit and big crops of runners. His method of cultivation is to plant but once on the same ground, using healthy vigorous runners from young plants that have not been weakened by bearing, plant- ing three feet by one foot, and training the runners like spokes to a wheel, so that the plants will not all be in a bunch. He plants in April and all blossoms are kept off the first summer. The Strawberry patch is kept constantly under supervision, and weeds are not allowed to appear. The crop is picked in June of the following year, and then the bed is turned under to be planted for several years with something else. The ground is nuide rich and thoroughly pre- pared by siibsoiling and superior tillage. His crops have been uniformly large for many years. He referred to the year 1876, when one fourth aci'e of Wilsou-'s yielded a fraction less than 100 bushels. In 188«, 3^ acres in the midst of a great drought aver- aged 2M bushels to the acre. The crop of the past extremely unfavorable season, when cold winds in the spring and the unparal- leled drought of the summer conspired against it, showed a yield of -SSi bushels per acre for three acres. Even with these heavy yields by high culture he thinks the plants are stronger than when he began in 18lil, In conclusion he urged giving the plants such soil, food and culture as they require for doing their best, or they will sufl'er in some manner. This rule has been broken and the sulfering is ui)on us. He belie\es the law is inflexible. We cannot expect Providence to work miracles to save our plants and fruits, in the face of sheer neglect on our part. The only wonder is that the deterioration complained of in many . Hoe, up to freezing, and then mulch until the ground ceases to freeze in the si)ring, and re-mulch when the fruit is half grown, ti. Allow plants to fruit but once; and 7. Get stock plants from those not allowed to fruit. :5o POPULAR GARDENING. December, Mildew and Aphis on Roses, Etc. PETER HENDERSON. .TERSEY CITY HEIGHTS, N. J. I noticed in your November issue an en- quiry from M., McHenry Co., Ills., asking for the best remedy against mildew and aphis on Roses. I can offer nothing new in the antidotes against these, but think we have something not generally known in our manner of applying them. Roses, Grape-vines and Chrysanthemums, besides hundreds of other species of plants cultivated both in the open air and under glass, are more or less affected by mildew and aphis. A certain remedy is to apply a mixture of 1 part of black or virgin sulphur to 9 parts of tobacco dust, applied with a sulphur bellows when the leaves are wet, at least once a week, — twice is better. We have used this as a preventive remedy for many years with the most excellent results on all plants subject to mildew or aphis. It is best to apply the sulphur and tobacco dust mixed, the sulphur being the specific for the mildew and the tobacco for the aphis. This saves time by " killing two birds with one stone." The main reason why these remedies fail is owing to the fact that they are rarely long enough persisted in. One or two applica- tions may check the trouble— but will check it only. My rule for these pests is preven- tion, which need never fail if the remedy is steadily applied. In our own practice every kind of plant that we know to be liable to be attacked by aphis or niUdew is dusted over with the mixture of sulphur and tobacco dust twice each week from June to October. Of course at such times as the Roses or Chrysanthe- mums are in flower, or when the fruit of Grapes is ripening, it must not be used; but these conditions only occur for a short sea- son during summer, and there is no necessity for using the dust in winter, as then some sulphur on the pipes checks mildew and fum- igation with tobacco stems kills the aphis. Practical Notes on Winter Covering. W. FALCONER, OLENCOVE, N. Y. The cover will depend on the sort of plants to be protected, the exposure of the land in which things are grown, the part of the coun- try in view, and local circumstances. And whatever may be written on the subject can only be suggestive. Sheltei! is the first essential in winter protection. In exceptionally well sheltered parts of Long Island Cunniughamia Sinen- sis, Cephaiotaxus Fortunei and Magnolia grandiflora live and appear to do well, but in an open unsheltered position on the same place any of these plants would not survive a single winter. In building a greenhouse we seek the warmest and most sheltered sit- uation available, both for the good of the plants and economy in heating. Gardeners select a warm sunny spot for their cold frames and hot-beds, and if the shelter is not already good they make it so by erecting close board fences around their frame ground, especially on the north and west sides, and there is no gardener so particular in thus providmg shelter as the market gar- dener—he who makes his living by raising early vegetables. Contiguous buildings, trees, shrubs, hedges or undulations of the land often afford the necessary shelter. A GuEEN Cei).\r Shelter Fence. Red Cedar grows abundantly around here in woods, waste fields and by the seashore. About the first of December, before the land is locked by frost, 1 go out into the fields cut down and haul home enough of these Cedars to form a close hedge fence around my frame ground and a nursery patch containing extra choice and somewhat tender stock. The Cedars are 8 to 10 feet high. First, a three- barred 4K foot high fence (if for temporary use a two-barred one is just as good) Is set around the gi'ound, then the Cedars are placed upright against this fence and close up against each other, hedge fashion, and their lower ends inserted into the soil a few inches deep to keep tliem in place. Then a couple of light wooden rails tacked back of them and fastened here and there with mar- line holds them perfectly secure; or mar- line altogether may be used, but in this case every upright must get a turn around. Now this fence keeps good till next May, when I strip it; then I also strip the Cedars and use them for bean poles and stakes. Evergreen trees or branches cut in summer very quickly lose their foliage, but cut in winter they retain them for months. Where the above three-barred fence is permanent, as around my frame ground, I use it in sum- mer as a trellis for Tomatoes, and a support for tall pot plants plunged alongside of it. Evergreen Branches of most any kind, say Pine, Spruce and Hemlock are capital Bow Mr. Falconer protects Delicate Trees, in- creasing the Cloth sometimes to cover the top. material for protecting all manner of plants. They don't lie flat upon the plants, nor is their foliage so thick as to tend to rot rather than protect the subjects meant to be pre- served, and as light covering, where pro- tection against bright sunshine in winter is the object in view, there is nothing better- Branches of deciduous trees lose their leaves too soon to be of much avail, but Oak and Beach, cut early, may come in useful. Muslin. I use many hundreds of yards of this every winter. It is the best, most serviceable and easily handled protecting material for the money it costs and available for many things. It is not in general use and I don't know why, but I strongly advise your readers to try it. I get mine from printing offices. It is the cloth that has been used in cleaning the presses, and costs little more than the price of old rags. I have them sewed into sheets as wide and long as I desire. In October, in the event of frost, it is a very easy matter to run a few sheets of this muslin over Tomatoes and Snap Beans and save them. During the winter and spring months, when our cold fi'ames and hot-beds are covered over with thatch, straw or mats, some of these sheets that had been oiled are spread over the covering to keep it dry from rain and snow, and wonderfully well it does it too. Every year I raise a thousand or more Chrysanthemum plants to bloom out-of-doors, and about the first of October lift and mass them together where I want them to flower, and erect over them a light wooden skeleton frame, which in the event of frosty or wet weather I cover over with this muslin, and in this way get good Chrysanthemums till the end of November. We have many somewhat tender trees, as Deodar, Photinia, Podocarpus, .Japanese Persimmon and some others that need a little protection in winter. Around them I drive in some stakes and to these tack some muslin (see engraving). This completely pro- tects the plants from wind. In the case of rather tender sorts, as English Holly, Pho- tinia, Laurels and Araucaria, I throw a few armfuls of dry Oak leaves inside the muslin enclosure, then tack another piece of muslin over the top to keep all snug and dry. I also use this muslin for shading frames and greenhouses, filling holes in buildings in winter, for lining boxes and baskets and for tying up small bundles of plants in. Strips of it also make capital tie-bands for trees. Tree Leaves. Among leaves for all pur- poses of winter mulching I prefer dry Oak leaves, because they keep so open and dry, and do not settle down and rot so soon as do Maple, Linden or other leaves. But for mulching Rhododendron, Azalea, Androm- eda and Kalmia beds in spring, where the object is a summer mulching, a protection against heat and drought, I would not much care what sort of leaves I should use. For many things Oak leaves are a capital mialch, as, for instance, around Hollyhocks and Foxgloves close together in beds, but for miscellaneous herbaceous plants in order I would sooner have manure. In the case of small rockeries or groups of choice delicate plants a few armfuls of dry Oak leaves scattered over them, and on top of that some evergreen branches, is a better and safer covering than manure. Rotted Manure. About the first of No- vember I cut over Phloxes, I^arkspur, Koem- pfer's Irises, Day Lilies, Plantain Lilies, Paeonies, perennial Sunflowers. Asters, Balm and other herbaceous perennials, and for tidiness sake clear away all the tops to the root pile, then root out all rough weeds. If we have only a few perennials scattered here and there we may manure or fork over the ground at once. But as my borders are very large and the number of plants grovsTi in them cjuite numerous, and in fall a mul- titude of self-sown seedlings of Larkspur, Foxglove, Salvias, Coreopsis and other plants come up, I do not fork over the ground till spring, because I may wish to save many of these seedlings. I therefore merely spread a liberal dressing of well- rotted manure all over the surface of the ground, there to remain till spring, when I fork it under. This not only helps the little seedlings but protects the crowns of the old plants, and in considerable measure pre- vents lifting by frost in winter. Indeed, one of the evils of digging among perennials in the fall is in thus rendering them more liable to be raised by frost. In the case of evergreens, as Thrift, Statices, Penstemons, some Veronicas and the like, avoid covering over the leaves with manure. But as re- gards .Japanese Anemone, Sargent's Plum- bago, Mist flower and some others that are not extra hardy and die down to under ground in fall, we can mulch pretty thickly. See that you mark the places of Gypsophila, Platycodon, Fraxinella and Asclepias when they are cut over, as they are hidden from sight in spring. In the case of Siberian, Koempfer's, and other Irises that grow up in clumps, we may mulch quite liberally about them, but we should avoid mulching, more than very lightly, aboiit German, Crested, Florentine and other kinds of Irises that have surface-running rhizomaton root stocks, else they will rot after they begin to grow in spring. About the end of October I clean my .Strawberry patches and spread a good dress- ing of short manure between the rows. In December as soon as we have a good crust of fi'ost I add a slight mulching overhead of sea thatch. Field mice are extremely de- structive in winter where they get any cover, as in a strawy or grassy mulching, and even in the case of young evergreen conifers where some grass and leaves collect under them the mice find a pleasant home, and bark the trees in payment for theii- hospi- tality. Knowing this, I clean out everything from under young evergreens in October 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 51 and in November scatter a dressing of rotted manure under and about them. And as a dressing for grass lawns, no matter whether AMARYLLIS ATAMASCO. used as a fertilizer or a protection for short grass against winter frost, there is nothing I like better than well rotted farm-yard ma- nure, but I would not put it on before frosty weather sets in. Then I can wheel or cart over the lawn wherever I wish to without hurt- '• ing the gi-ass. Rough or Littery Manure is a capital mulch for Roses, or, in fact, most anything where there are no field mice, but wherever these rodents abound, strawy manure should not be used for outdoor mulching. S.\LT Mk.vdow H.w cut in July or early in August and well saved is a capital mulch for low plants when used thiul)', and it lasts well about trees and shrubs in summer. Thatch. The very rank gi-ass we cut along the water's edge in salt meadows makes a most excellent covering for her- baceous plants or Strawberries, or to scatter thinly over leaves to keep them in place. I also use it in quantity for covering frames in winter and mulching about trees in sum- mer. It is so heavy that the wind does not blow it about as it does hay or straw. I pre- fer to cut it about the first of September. The Culture of the Amaryllises. A quality of these valuable bulbs that commends them to popular favor is that it is unnecessary to disturb the roots frequently by repotting or otherwise. They enjoy being let alone for a considerable period, in this respect being quite accommodating to those growers who like to manage their plants with little trouble. A fresh pot of earth once in two or three years is enough, and will grow better plants than can be done by the annual shift usually practiced. But as the bulbs should remain long planted when once they are set, this opera- tion should be well performed, not that the plant is especially particular like some. but it at least requires fair treatment in the respects which follow: The soil should be a substantial loamy compost. The bulbs should always be potted firmly, and especial attention should be paid to drainage. For this there should be no stint of potsherds, and they should be carefully laid, having a piece of rough turf placed over the cracks to prevent dirt from settling among them. One point in the culture of Amaryllises it is, however, not diffi- cult to make a mistake in. We refer to not providing a decided season of rest annually after each period of growth and bloom. It is also worthy of mention that the drying off must be done in a gradual manner. When this is accomplished properly the foliage will sometimes remain fresh and plump for a couple of months without water. So long as the plants are thoroughly at rest, it matters not whether the foliage dies away altogether, or a few leaves remain green during the rest. The spring is the best season for planting or repotting Amaryllises, as this is their natural season of root growth. In managing a con- siderable lot of them it is a good plan to repot a portion, say one- third, every spring in turn, and then not allow a single flower on the last lot potted, but to pinch out the flower bud as soon as it appears. By observing this rule, and the one laid down concerning a suitable rest, and by keeping them cool, the bulbs will siibsequently flower with double the strength of ones not treated in this fashion. When first starting Amaryllis bulbs one good watering to wet the soil thoroughly wDl be required, and then no more must be given until it is nearly dry again. From this stage increase the supply according to the progress of the plants. When in full growth they will bear liberal watering, but this should never extend to over-watering. After the first year regular supplies of weak manure water are of much value to the plants. When the full growth has been reached it should be noted that water will be less frequently required, a matter also to be strictly respected. For promoting good growth and bloom a temperature of about tiO" is the most suitable. The plants dislike cold draughts on them during the stage just referred to. Gener- ally speaking the storing of Amaryllises should begin about the end of February, although there is no difficulty to force them by starting the bulbs a month or two earlier than this. Where it is desira- ble to keep up a succession a batch may be started every three weeks as long as the bulbs last. It is a mistake, and one yet much persisted in by growers, to suppose they re- quire a strong bottom heat. Our engravings represent two distinct styles of Amaryllis, the upper, A. Atamasco, being an attractive native species down each segment. It is a specially hardy and robust grower, and one of the most valuable sorts for pot culture. Begonias as Window Plants Again. M. D. WELLCOME, YARMOUTH, ME. The article on Begonias as window plants in a recent issue I endorse. To me there is nothing so satisfactory for the winter collec- tion, and I have made them a specialty, each year adding new and beautiful varieties. These I obtain chiefly from Hill & Co., Rich- mond, Indiana, as I find them no where else. I will mention a few of rare beauty, quite unlike the well known varieties: Olbia. The leaves are from seven to ten inches in diameter, and divided into several sharp points. The veins are sunken, giving to the surface a crape like appearance. The color is varying shades of brown and red, which in the sunlight has a lovely effect. The plant h»s a heavy trunk bearing erect branches. Flowers are large, lemon white. Rubella. This in its habit of growth is quite dissimilar to the former. It is an In- dian species. The leaves spring directly from the root and are borne on very long drooping stems. Color, olive green blotched with red. The ribs are banded with purplish brown, under side red. Very handsome and finely adapted for a hanging basket or a window bracket. Alba pifta. Of shrubby growth. The leaves are long and slender, glossy green thickly spotted with white. Gloire de Sceaux. A novelty of last year. Erect and compact; the leaves are large as those of the Rex varieties, short stemmed, color deep plum with metallic gloss. The flowers are rose color and are borne in great abundance during the winter. Manicata aurca. Beautifully variegated. Leaves large, glossy, light green, profusely blotched with bright yellow. Flowers pink. AMARYLLIS JOHNSONII, (COLOR DEEP RED WITH WHITE STRIPE). that is found growing wild in wet places from Virginia southward. The flowers are large, white and pink, and the species possesses merit for cultivation. The lower engraving shows Amaryllis Johnsonii. The flowers are deep red with a white stripe Dr. NurhtiijaL A France; very fragrant. late novelty from 476. CuttinRS of Lapageria Bosea. Cuttings rarely succeed. Increase by layers iir seeds; the latter method being preferable.— C. E. P. 52 POPULAR GARDENING'. December, Song of Leaves. Red leaf, gold leaf. Flutter down the wind ; Life Is brief, oh 1 life Is brief. But mother tarth Is kind : ' From her dear bosora he shall spring To new blossoming. The red leaf, the gold leaf, They have had their way : Love is long, if life be brief- Life Is l>ut a day ; And love from Grief and Death shall spring To new blossoming. Chrysanthemums. of all the flowers that l^low between the snow and snow— The Trillium, the Lilium, the Leuoanthemum— There are none In all the "-ow that make so great a show As that lingering flower of autumn, the Chrysanthe- mum. The Violet and the Rose are sweeter, I suppose. And more modest is the pink Meserabryanthemum, But for eyes as well as nose, and to please the maids and beans. There is nothing like the gorgeous, gay Chrysanthe- mum. December Is a trying month, the frost one's hands benumb.s. But then it is the happy month when merry Christmas comes. There is nothing without drawbacks ; let's be thankful that It's true ; There's no drawback you can mention but has compen- sations, too. Keep down plant insects. Benew early in the month. The garden favors intellect. Uoisture hastens decay in fruit. Ask your friends to subscribe also. Avoid chilly drafts on growing plants. If Heliotrope gets frozen, throw out at once. This is the worst month for the Lettuce forcer. We prize the Purple Hazel as an ornamental shrub. You missed it on Primulas if blooms are not yet near. The Worden is so far jjreferred to the Concord in our vineyard. Didn't your Golden Elder color weU't It won't do so in the shade. The surface soil of pot plants had better be kept loose in winter. Liquid manure only for plants that are in actual growth or in bloom. In plant culture the prince and the peasant stand nearly on common grounds. The Popular thing to do: Subscribe to Popular Gabdenlno and Fruit Growing. The gardener who trenches deeply and ma- nures heavily is sure to come off best. A plant like Ivy, hardy out-of-doors, may suf- fer from a slight frost bite when housed. Get in seeds of Centaurea Candida this month or it wont be worth whUe. Slow growers. If you have money to fool away, seed down the young orchard to clover, grass or grain. Summer mulch must be drawn from the young trees if you would save them from mice. Kerosene is cheap, and a single lamp will do wonders in a small plant room to keep out frost. Onions are not of tlie things that like warmth In the winter, a steadily frozen condition suits them better. The Double White Phlox Drummondi pos- sesses the additional charm of being sweetly scented. Our aim in the greenhouse is to have a good breadth of cutting bed filled with slips before this month is out. In Lettuce culture little water when there is little air must be the rule. Many mistakes are made just here. What One Dollar secures here. More than llilXI practical articles and 3.50 engravings in the annual volume. Somin Hyacinths started in September, if now fairly encouraged should give plenty of sweet bloom by Christmas day. Our nearest approach to a Paradise on earth is by way of a good garden, that abounds in flowers, fruits and pleasant trees. A Great Camellia Plant In Birmingham, England, there is a large Double White Camellia tree 17 feet high and the same measure across. The getter up of a club to this journal is a true horticultural missionary, and one who does the cause of American horticulture a genuine service. Quinces, Large crops of the finest fruit are grown on our land, which lays high and is rather thin, by the course of applying a liberal coat of manure every year. An annual subscription to this journal makes a most becoming Holiday present. Bo you take the hint "/ Send on subscriptions promptly and we can return receipts before Christmas day. Parchment paper, strong, thin, almost trans- parent, and that which does not lose its strength when submerged in water, is being offered as a substitute for glass to be used in frame making. What is wanted in the description of new sorts is the correct time of maturity. In hundreds of things the mere being off from the truth by a week's time makes the whole difference between profit and loss. Bark Louse. A practical writer says the best remedy for this insect is leaf tobacco boiled in lye until reduced to a pulp, and then mixing enough soft soap tfi make the whole like thin paint. It is not easily washed off. Strawberries can without any great difficulty be forced to fruit in winter, only quality must be left out of consideration with those coming on before April 1st, as air and sunshine are im- portant features in imparting fia\'or. The fruit sells by its color however. A club of five subscribers, at one dollar each, secures an extra copy to the getter up of the club. We believe that ten or fifteen thousand clubs of five each could easily be raised this month by our readere. How we would appreciate just this kind of help in December ! Some Pumpkins. They were of the Sugar Pumpkin variety, and grown by our subscriber, Curtis Babcock. One single ^-Ine outdid any- thing he ever heard of, or we either, producing 39 specimens fit for cooking, seven of which alone weighted S'.JTH pounds in the aggregate. Water-proof paper for paclring plants, etc., may be made by taking twenty-four parts of blue soap, to be procured at drug stores, and four parts of white soap, fifteen parts of wax, and boil it with 130 parts of water. Dip the packing paper into this letting it well soak, and then hang it up on cords to dry. A New Dwarf Lupine. Messrs. Haage & Schmidt of Erfurt, Prussia, offer the new variety illus- trated herewith as Lupinus albo-coccineus nanus. It is spoken of as being remai-kably free bloom- ing, while possessing the merit of assuming a handsome compact bush of about one foot in height and breadth, and bearing its bloom well above the foliage. Banana Fruiting in the Open Air. It is re- liably stated that Dr. W. N. DeVille, a druggist of Jefferson Cit.v, Mo., has had a plant of the Banana, Mitsa paradimea, which bore fruit the past season. The summer climate of most parts of the United States is fairly well suited to the Banana and the plant might receive more atten- tion from American growers. " It is English." Now that we as a people find so much to admire in English ways and fashions. Popular Gardening would be glad to see more of our wealthy ones pattern after their foreign cousins in the sensible matter of possessing ample country homesteads. In England landed property is the highest ambition of men of wealth. It is a most praiseworth.i»' ambition. Three "Dont's" in Strawberry Culture. Mr. G. J. Kellogg, of Janes\ille, Wis., epitomizes a good deal of wisdom on an imijort^tnt point, as follows; Don't accept as a gift plants from a neighbor's nhl bed. Don't take plants fr4jm your own unless you know them t(t be pure and no pistillate varieties set in that bed. Don't plant a pistillate unless you have some reliable kind to set along side of it. What do you think of the Apple? writes our correspondent Samuel Miller, of Bluffton, Mo., concerning a handsome specimen sent to us, of the crop of 1S,S6, kept by a new preserving pro- cess. What we think is that such a process, if it proves to be inexpensive and applicable without bad effects to all varieties, would be of great worth in helping to equalize the fruit crop. We hope to learn more of this method. Concerning future improvements Popular Gardening ANi> Fruitgrowing seldom indulges in puffs or pr(;ra- ises. It prefers to point simply to its past rec- ord, showing" the i m p r o vements that have from month to month been wrought ivithout irrmtii»€^ of any sort, aa an pflmp^t of ^lif* Tiaininu Wire for a Pot. spirit that con- stantly prompts its publishers in this direction. So we say, would you know of the future? Then look to the past. " Soot water," writes "J. M." "is a cheap and easily made fertilizer for pot plants. It benefits all kinds. It also clears worms from the soil. I prefer t« use it only after the roots have taken to the SOU freely. To make it, halt fill an old bag with soot, adding a brick for weight, tie up the mouth and sink it in a barrel of water. Begin using it in moderate doses. The strength to apply it can best be determined with some prac- tice by the cultivator. Butter and Eggs Weed, We have a threatening nuisance here taking i)ossession of the streets and fields, and farmei-s do not seem to be awake to the danger of tolerating its presence. I mean Toad Flax, known also by name of "Jacob's Lad- der " and " Butter and Eggs." I find it almost impossible to kill it by digging. Its slender thread-like roots run deep and spreading. Heavy and persistent salting seems the most effective.— M. H. W., Elmira, N. Y. Twelve Everblooming Boses. The following- Ust of desirable varieties constitutes the choice of Mrs. Wade Burden, of Greene Co., Missouri, an amateur of much experience: Appoline, Countess de Labarthe, Bon Silene, Catherine Mermet, La France, of various colors of rose and pink ; Perle des Jardins, yellow; Marechal Neil, yellow; Clau Carnot, buff; MaJmaison, flesh color; Marie GuiUot, very white ; Madame Mar- gottin, j'ellow, red centre ; General Jacqueminot. " It is not a poor flower," says A. V. D., of Cumberland, Md., in speaking of the Cosmos hybridus, which some one has said is not worth the room it occupies. Our correspondent further remarks : " I have them in full bloom now (Octo- ber 10th), excelling in beauty the Japan Anemone. I have lovely pink and white ones, the petals crimped and lovely, making a beautiful cut A New Dwarf Lupine. flower and one that keeps fresh a long while. It takes up a good deal of room perhaps, but for this it pays in the beauty of its blossoms." Clubs are easily made up for this paper. Its beauty, worth and price do the business where there is only some one to help the matter along a little. Reader, will you not see what can be done among your friends? The present month, when nearly everyone is renewing or changing their periodicals, is just the time to bring the needed pressure t« bear. Our journal is com- 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 53 paratively yonnj? and unknown, hence in very many cases an introduction only would be re- qiiii-ed to secure for it another supporter in each case. Once such are subscribers we will try very hard t^> hold them on the intrinsic merits of the paper. Hard Putty. The Carriage Monthly gives the follnwin!; for a hard putty that will dry in one daj': Take whitening, ma.sh all the lumiis out on the stone, and mix it into a stiff paste by addintr e<(ual parts of japan and rubbing varnish; then add as mucli keg-lead as .vou think will make it work free with the knife; then add the rest of the whitening until yon have it to suit you. If you want putty that will dry cpiicker, take dry white lead, and mix with enual pai-ts of japan and varnish, to which add a few drops of turpen- tine. This is very soft for putty, but can be sand-papered in from two to three hours, be- coming perfectly hard in that time. A Floral Cow, wrought in Hydrangea fiowei-s, was shown at a New England fair, reports one of our subscribei-s. It ma.v have been appropriate to Dairy Hal], as the writer says, but merely as a floral desig[i we are sure it was a marked failure. We have yet to see the often made attempt to represent a hoi-se, cow or sheep in flowers or bedding plants, carried to a pleasing success, for the simple reason that the legs, comparatively slender in each case, cannot thus be delicately enough molded. An elephant or an owl may be made with comparative ease, because of their natural clumsiness of appearance. These have been made in such fine flowers as Violets, to be really handsome in the sight of those having a fancy for extreme oddities. School Yard Adornment. In the January issue of this journal there will appear an illustrated article on school yard adornment, to be followed by others throughout the year. It is a subject that is attracting increasing attention, as it well deserves to, and we mean, in coming issues, to give considerable space to practical information, having in riew the improvement of the thousands of school yards of the country. Plans of school yards or other matter relating to the subject and which could be furnished by our readers would be thankfully received by the editor, and would be used for giving it the wide publicitj' which all matter that appears in these columns merits. Let us hear from many teachei*s, parents, and com- mittee men on thLs subject. Training Wire for Pots. In tjlng tmt the branches of Pelargoniums, Chrysanthemums, and many other plants in training for good shape, a leading difficulty met is in the matter of places to tie to. Numerous stakes thrust into the pots in- terfere with the roots, besides looking unsightly, and they are apt to bend or become drawn out of place. To render this matter easy some English gardeners employ the simple and convenient wire device shown figured herewith, the same being slipped over the pot from the bottom up and to rest against the rim. The small projecting bends afford places in which to attach the twine. The same may also serve to attach supports in case it is desirable to suspend the pots. By the aid of such a collar almost any plant can readily be tied out for increasing shapeliness of form without the use of a single stake. Lilium candidum in the Window. This beau- tiful hard.\- Lily makes one fif the best plants for window culture, and if a number of builds be had can have some of them in bloom from March to .lune, the time when those |ilanted out-of-doors bloom. Do not keep the bnlljs long out of the soil after removing them in the fall, as it is nece-ssary for success that they make their roots and leaves before severe weather. After potting leave them out-of-doors until after a good sharp frost or two, then one at a time can be brought in and placed in the window, giving plenty of light and sufficient water to keep the soil moist, but not wet, as stagnant moisture around the bulb of any kind of LUy causes decay of the roots. If the atmosphere of the room is dry Red Spider is apt to appear on the underside of the foliage, and in order to i)revent them making any headway, sponge occasionally with water. Weak liquid manure is also beneficial as the flower spike develoijs. —3f. Milton, i'tningstown^ O. Meddling with the Names— a Protest. Would it not be for the interest vi leading seedsmen to use the proper names for their earliest varieties of vegetables? In numerous cases they prefl.x their own name to the same variety, each claim- ing it to be the best in some respect, when, with- out doubt, they are all the same, but they are apt to mislead the purchasers. We all know that for the interest of all we have entirely loo many va- rieties. It is an increased expense to the seeds- men and a perplexity to the jjurchascrs, with no benefit that in any degree pays for the extra trouble, and when tn the already too numy va- rieties is added the different names referred too, the perplexity Is still further al, leaves eight or ten inches long may be gathered. The Large-rooted variety grown to the size of a finger is much used thus for forcing in the \ icinity of Paris, Fnince. New York Floral Notes. People are coming back t<> town now; the sea- son's festivities have begun, and the florists re- joice in proportion. It is too early yet to notice any decided new departures in decorations, as no very great enteitainments have taken place. Every big florist nowadays has a regular pot- tery annex, with a large assortment of vases, jars and the like. The new styles are exceedingly artistic, being, for the most part, copies after the antique in the fine grades of majolica. It is a little bit incongruous, however, to see the fac- simile of a Greek cinerary urn, minus its cover, massed with flaming Chrjsanthemums. Mr. Sie- brecht is the originator of a very prett.v candle- stick, to be used in adorning a dinner table. In shape it is like an ordinary candlestick, flaring at the top into the form of a classic three-beaked lamp; the candle stands in the middle of this, while the surrounding bowl is packed with mo.ss, and filled with flowers, so that the candle rises in the center of a boucpiet. The stiind.has a long, slender handle, reaching to the top; it is madeof majolica and is very graceful in appearance. ' The chief objects of interest in floral circles are autumn shows; and we have three very hand- some ones to chronicle. The fli-st was that gi\eu by Mr. Le Moult in the Eden Musee. It diffci-s from the others in that it was purely a show of picturesque effects, and therefore was not to be regarded in a professional or scientifii- light. It was intended to show what could be done by picturesque grouping, and the effect was most charming; a group of Palms in the centre was really beautiful. Professionals were chiefly interested in the plant of Vanda Sanderiana be- longing to Mr. Bush. It had a fine spike of bloom, and though not the specimen for which Mrs. Morgan paid such an extravagant price, it was a good representative. Mr. Le Moult's baskets were extremely pretty, and presented one very novel feature; each one contained an inner vessel of water, so that the flowers kept as well as in a vase. A very pretty I me consisted of three baskets.fllled severally with pink, crimson and buff Carnations. Baskets of • hrysanthemums were made up with autumn leaves and stiff, heavy foliage— the only proper and fitting accompaniment for these flowei-s. A great many florists make the mistake of mingling fine Ferns with the Chrysanthemums, with \iiry poor results. This was the prevailing error at the two great shows, the New Jersey Society's at Brick Church and the New York show. Mr. Le Moult showed some lovely Corsage bunches at the New York Exhibition; long, loose bouquets of graceful shape. One was composed of Lily-of-the- Valley, with a base of purple Vio- lets; another was a combination of American Beauty and Roman Hyacinths. The handsomest hand bouquets shown were simply mas-ses of one sort of Roses, without any mixture. The Langtry cup, given by the great beauty to the New York Society, called out some elaborate work. This piize was offered for the best room decorations suitable for wedding or reception, the display filling a space of thirty by fourteen feet. Suitability and taste were counted as giv- ing more points of excellence than value of plants. The winner of the cup showed in fac- simile a portion of a reception room. There was a door space, massed with Palms, and a little nook, sUghtly furnished, backed with a most graceful arrangement of palms and cycads. The melting green of the palms was the very thing to soften the light in a brilliant room, and the arrangement left nothing to be desired. The other entries consisted of fine plants well ar- ranged, bntthey were lessappro|)riate to a room, though very fine as arrangements of decorative plants. A very pretty arrangement for the table was a low plateau of Roses, Perles, Mermets and Cooks, arranged in three divisions, mingled with smaU Palms and Crotons. Selaginella makes a pretty flat plateau, as a ground for fine Bowers; some florists grow it in flats for this purpose. Some very fine Chrysanthemums were shown at Brick Church and New York. Among new varieties, G. T. Moseman deserves a very prom- inent place; it is an immense, wildly irregular Japanese, terra-cotta inside and buff without. Mrs. Frank Thompscm is another immense flower, suitable for exhibition purposes. Cullingfordii is a very good thing, comparatively new; it is a recurving Chinese, with a rich, velvety bloom, and a iierfect ox-blood color. It Ls one of the things no floiist should be without. William Battomly is a very fine white, but the best exhi- bition flower on view was Troubadour, a big pink Japanese; it was the nearest approach to perfec- tion in the ey&s of the judges. A florist, who grows the flower strictly for trade purposes, can worry along on about twenty-flve characteristic Chrjsanthemums, but amateurs who have the craze badly will run into hundreds. So far, there are not nearly so many Chrysan- themums offered by the street venders as last year; these sidewalk merchants run chiefly to Roses now. But the Mikado's flower has an as- sured place; everj- one has to grow them, and it is no use to grow poor varieties. Papa Gontier is meeting with increased favor; it is a verj' satisfactory Rose. Madame de Watte- ville is another new favorite, though the old stand-bys hold their ground. The last new Rose is the white Souvenir d'un Ami, and a pretty thing too. New Roses have been hardly such an epidemic this season as last. Emily Louise Taplin. 54 POPULAR GARDENING'. December, BSHT'rr SOCIETIES J^einuMatteRTHat Deserves TO SEWIDBrvKMOWH^ Shonid be Spelled Keiffer. A disciis.si(»n uoiicerninj? this Pear, hy the American Ponifilogieal Soeicty re- cently, brought out a state- ment that the originator said he spelled it "Kei— " but pronounced if'Keffer." Ahead in one Hespect. Mr. Ohmer, in one of his recent talks, referred to the fact that the Peach blossom is surrf)uuded by a little cup, which so protects the ovary that it will stand more bad weather than other fruits. The Coat was Too Light. I had occasion to transplant about 200 Raspberry plants last fall, and to save loss I laid them down and covered them, as recommended by some growers, with soil, but the rain washed off considerable of the cover, and the freezing and thawing has thrown out many of the plants, so I was obliged to pull up some and cover the rest over again, whUe some which I covered with old straw are in the best condition.— 0. rr. Ahlricli. Flowers in Alaska, It is not all snow and ice in Alaslsa. and we found everywhere some flowei-s. On the island upon which Sitka, the capital of Alaska, is situated, there are said to be over three hundred kinds of flowers. There is little cultivation of flowers. I think an.v one would be surprised, howe^'er, at the number and beauty of wild flowers growing there. At the foot of Mt. Saint Ellas we plucked some of the most beautiful flowei's.— 3Jr. Sessions hcfiyrc the Columbus (O)iio) Society. Flantin gin School Yards^ At the last meeting of the Western New York Horticultural Society It was resolved that the Society specially and earnestly recommend to aU our colleges, acad- emies, and aU other institutions of learning which own grounds, to plant and protect in growth on these grounds as man.v different species as may be practicable, both for the orna- ment and shade they will afford, and for the aid they will render in gi\-lng lessons to the students on their distinctive character and value; and that instructors be required to study these char- acteristics, not only for their own benefit, but for imparting this knowledge to the young. Pointed Bemarks on Flowers, lor brilliant hues, and for a constant succession of blossoms, no annuals can excel the Petunia and the Phlox. They arc healthy, robust plants, that are success- ful with amateurs. Asters are desirable, because they come into bloom after the greater share of garden flowei-s have passed their prime. Tulips are a riot of colors, and no counter spread with velvets ever showed so soft and lustrous as a bed of Pansies. While Prairie Roses and Multi- floras have all failed me, old-fashioned French Boursalts yields neither to winter's cold nor summer's drought. In house plauts a few choice specimens are better than numberless poor ones. —Mix. Lihon before the Wixcnmin State Society. Lessons from the Drought. Among the les- sons taught us again this year, and taught with renewed emphasis, are greater variety of crops, deep plcnving, frequent cultivation, not too deep, cultivation of all orchard trees, and something as to rotation of crops. Mr. Murray's cultivated orchard of seven acres holds its place at the front with one thousand to twelve hundred bushels of Apples, while orchai-ds not cultivated have siarcely any. In his nur.sery may be seen tens of thousands of grafts, thousands of Evergreens, and Hoses of forty varieties, that show wliat has been done with a nursery on our soil, and that too, in the worst of all diy jears, by intelligent, earnest work. Two-thirds of his sixty thousand Celery plants have been nursed through the drought, and are now likely to make the best of Celery for market.— Pio/ii Missouri Heiiovt. A Horticultural Picnic given by the Wai-saw (111.) Horticultural Society in August last is thus referred to by one who attended : " Fully a thousand people were present, including farmers, fruit growers, and many of the best citizens of this section. A tabic of fine fruits was on ex- hibition, consisting cliiefly of Apples, Grajics and Plums. A beautiful feature was a large collec- tion of flowei-s, arranged in the form of a rustic garden, wliich caused many exclamations of surprise and pleasure from all visitors. But the chief pleasures of the day were social. At 11 o'clock the assemblage was called to order by President Dennis, and after prayer Rev. H. R. Trickett addressed the assemblage upon the social problems of the day. He urged more in- telhgent labor, and the better education of farmers' sons and daughters, both literary and technical, that they may more properly fill aU the duties of life. After the noonday feast the society was called to order, and a number of in- teresting papers and essays were read and dis- cussed. The Warsaw band discoursed good music at intervals, and the exercises were further enlivened by a song from the M. E. Church choir. Altogether it was a very pleasant and profitable day, and our society hopes to have many more such annual gatherings." On Black Walnut Culture. Before the Ontario Fruit Growers'Association, recently. Prof. Brown read a paper on the Walnut and Larch grown ect to have a day set apart by the State Superintendent for tree phmting ne.vt sjiring. We can lead in the work, tell the school boards what t<3 do and how to do it. Mr. Speer stated that the arbor day appointed by the .state was entirely too late for the work. He thiuks there is no school district in the State of Missouri that cannot ornament its grounds if there is just one man in that district who will make up his mind that it shall be done. It will be worth, as an advertisement, to any nursery- man all that it will cost him to furnish the trees to ornament the school grounds of his county. here. Mine has suffered, but with this and all other mishaps I still have SO per cent of trees in bearing condition, and the balance coming on. Such winters may not occur again, and with the experience I am gaining, the new orcliard might do even better, though s(jme drawbacks are likely to always occur. I allude to these things to show, if need be, that my calculations arc not visionary, and that I do not e.\peet to follow in the beaten patlis of the country. If I were apprehensive of doing that, or that m.v sons would degenerate to it, I would pull up the last tree before spring, and perhaps phint some tough kind of forest trees that coidd stand such treatment. Planting We planted the trees in rows 4 feet s inciies apart, placing ait<'rnately midways, making each tree the centre of a he.vagon and 17 feet between each tree. The intention is to cut out three-fourths of them whenever the balance will be benefited by it, which I estimate at 12 to An Eighty-Acre Apple Orchard. lAbstra4_'t of paper read before the Adair County iSfo.i Horticullitral Society, by Chas. Patterson.) Having planted over 1^,00() Apple trees on a full HO acres last spring, I will give some of my rea.S(jns and experience to the public. Beasons for Planting.— It is quite a general impression that when we get a crop prices bare- ly pay for picking and hauUng. Many are dis- couraged if we tell them to cultivate, manure and prune the orchard, dig out the borers, etc. I have been one of the first to call attention to these needs years ago, but it is very safe to as- sume that less than one-tenth of the present orchanls will ever receive any benefits from good care, and the markets will keep being glutted with inferior and very cheaii fruit, while good qualities are in demand at fair prices. The present short crop may be an accident of the season to some extent, but we need not ex- pect abundant crops hereafter, only in the ex- ceptionally favorable seasons. One such crop well biken care of as I had last year on my eight- year old orchard may easily be made worth the present cost of land and trees. We have passed through a senes of winters or seasons that have demolished nearly all orchards not far north of WINTER ST. LAWRENCE APPLE. 16 yeare, allowing them to bear four to eight croi>s, which of itself can be exceedingly good pay for all investment. The remaining trees will then be 2fl feet i inches by 34 feet in square rows. This was an oversight in planning, as I preferred to have them alternating. We made a two inch square pole for marking off, with inch holes through which to stick hazel pegs where the trees should stand. Two hands can run very straight between stakes at each end, but in 80 rods distance it required care to set the pegs always at the same side of the hole, and in crossing depressions and elevations we found it necessary to have cross lines of stakes .as stations to verif.v and correct the run. We used a re-place, that is a board four to six feet long with a notch or hole in the middle to be placed at the peg, and one notch for similar pegs at each end, to preserve the place for the tree while digging. We dug the holes fuU, large and deep, filled round the roots with mellow soil, tramped in as hard as possible, leaning the tree perhaps too heavy to the southwest, which is easier correct- ed than to straighten after leaning the other way. We then planted com in and between the rows, and had as good a crop as if there ' were no trees, except that the planting of the corn was delayed in some measure on account of the tree planting. The trees were the Ben Davis variety, it being by tar the most \)rofltable tree to plant, except about .tOO Yellow Transparent, a new Russian summer apple, earlier than any we have before, and the only one of hundreds imported lately that I think valuable for this latitude. I prepared a record btjok, and numbered a page for every three rows, and a line for every tree. Early in August I went to or near every tree with mj' book and put zinc labeLs on the permanent trees, with its number written in lead pencil. With these guides I can send any hand , to any spot in the field, or go myself withcmt making a mistake. In replanting I can alwaj'S know how many trees are wanting in each row, and save much travel. It requires 44 miles walk- ing to go to every tree. The Winter St. Lawrence Apple. \By R. W. Shepherd. Jr.. before Montreal Horticultural .Swiety.) We have now hay's marble, and no hills or ridges ought to be tolerated, even for raising Sweet Potatoes. The cultivation ought to be nearly level thntughout the setison. After the garden is yilanted, if restricted to one tool I would choose a steel-tooth rake. Its fre- quent use is not only death to weeds and grass, but is the <*ertain and efficient preparation of a well pulverized surface soil— the best mulch that can be had. Three or four minutes with a steel- 56 POPULAR GARDENING. December, tooth rake will save the work of two or three days if carelessly left weeds be plenty, if the work be done in time. The prevalent custom in town and country to crowd the vegetable garden with fruit trees and bushes ought not to be tolerated. The walk, rather than Raspberries, Peaches and sour Cher- ries, ought to be next the fence all around. Every garden ought to have an Asparagus bed laid out and planted as soon as it is located- Then there should be English Peas, Black Wax and Early Valentine Bunch Beans, Jersey Wake- field and Plat Dutch Cabbage, Deacon Lettuce, Perfection and Acme Tomatoes, Egyptian and Eclipse Beets, Boston Market Celery, Carter Watermelon, Montreal Market Cantaloupe, Early Rose, Beauty of Hebron and Mammoth Pearl Iiish Potatoes, and the Shaker Red Sweet Potatoes, these being the best of their several kinds. The old-fashioned Long Green Cucumber is the best of its kind for all purposes. The gar- den ought never to be found without Parsle.v, Mint, Thyme and Sage. We conclude one must enjoy seeing his vege- tables grow to have success. But to have a good garden its owner must look after it and take a hand himself. As a steady thing it is not for fun as good as fox hunting, but it is infinitely more so than sitting around whittling pine boxes and talking politics, and vastly more profitable, and to a professional man far better exercise than Is usually sought ffir at much more expense. In the fruit section, apart, there should be of red Raspberries a row of Turner and Cuthbert; of the blacks, Gregg, and our native plant to be found in the woods. Of Strawbenies, Cumber- land Triumph, Warren and Crescent, which last if sour and small, is persistent and jirolific. Horticulture for Cemetery Lots. [From a paper by Jnhit G. Barker be/ure the Massa. rhtttietts Horticultural Society,] The Landscape Idea. First of all, without good grass you may plant whatever else you please, aud yet never have a good looking lot. Let all the ground be well prepared before sowing, to give the seed something to feed on. I know by sad experience the great drawbacks from the want of thorough preparation. Proprietors whose lots were graded many yeai-s ago, by the men who would do it cheapest, are surprised that theirs do not look so well as many others. Now every lot in all well conducted cemeteries is thoroughly prepared before being sold. Top dressing is good, but food for the deep roots is better; a dry spell will soon convince a close observer of this fact. By aU means let us have good grassing. Happily many of the old unsightly hedges, fences, and granite curbings that formerly were permitted to surround the lots, are giving way, each year, to grassy slopes and rare trees and shrubs; so that in this modern style the \-iews of the foundei-s are becoming realized. It is not until a few years ago. comparatively speaking, that the landscape lawn plan has been carried out. What to Plant. Not long ago a lady, who owned a small lot, said to me : "I want some shrubs, or plants, or both, on my lot ; what do you ad\isei"' In the center was set a weeping Kilmarnock Willow (which can be easily removed if a monument is erected), and on each front corner a plant of Yucca aUtifoUa; with a Spinea and a Hydrangea placed near the back corners. Properly cared for, this simple arrangement wiU look well for years to come. I do not advise flower beds on lots, although many wish for them, but do think a good-sized vase, well fiUed, and placed in the center of the lot (especially where there is no monument), is very desirable. Larger lots will admit of more extended work ; but still the principles are the .same. We must aim to attain aU the variety we can in embellishment, and yet strive for an effect of neatness and simplicity; anything like osten- tation is entirely out of place. I can show you a beautiful vista where once was an assemblage of unsightly hedges and iron fences, with ragged banks and terraces, half dead trees and scraggy shrubs. We now have there a range of well kept lots, with vases and beds of flowers, and choice trees and shrubs; the whole area is a pleasure to all, and not one of the several proprietoi-s would restore its former con- dition on any account. It took time of course to accomplish this result. On the larger lots, of a thousand or more square feet, a good way is to form a ciicle, described about the center of the lot. This will leave spaces in the front and back corners, which may be planted, if you please, with Cut-leaved Birch on the back corners, Deutzia gracUiis in the front, or Yuc^a aU)lfolia, or anything to suit your taste. if not of too strong growth; place a tree in the center, to occupy it until you are ready with your monument. The planting of trees and shrubs, in the ceme- teries of which I have charge is controlled entire- ly by the trustees; and with " perpetual care "' there is no reasonable objection to this restriction. Large trees are not planted on the avenues, but only between the lots, on the back of the front row. If you adhere to the the landscape lawn plan you can keep all unpleasantly distinctive lines out of sight. In suitable spaces I recommend a free use of shrubs and herbaceous plants. I would never plant very close, but would let each have room to show what it is. I believe in massing the differ- ent kinds, but not in swamping them. But before any kind of planting is done, prepare your beds in the best possible way— it will pay to do it; and if you do not, disappointment will be your doom. I have one ornamental piece, on a flat surface, seen on all sides. It is broad in the center, aud comes to a sharp point at either end. In the center of the piece a Salistmi-ia adiantifiilia is planted, and at each of the ends are six or eight plants of Yucca aloifuUa. On the edges between the Yuccas at each end is a row of low-growing Phloxes— aU seedlings. The spaces between the Phloxes on the sides and the Yuccas at the ends are filled in with Hydrangea paniculata graiuli- fliiva ; the whole forms a very satisfactory bed. Another prominent corner, of good size and triangular in shape, is planted as follows : At the point on the back, about thirty feet from the avenue, is a very fine specimen of VirgiUa lutea; half way between this and the avenue is a Kil- marnock WUlow, grafted high. Between these, and bordering the two sides, are Spineas, Weige- las, Dculziascabra and D. crenatafl. pi., F(rrKjithia virkllisima, and Hydrangea paiiiculafd uranili- flora ; and on the front Deutzia (//(iciVi.-.; these are all gro%vn as specimen plants and tliej- barely touch each other. A circle of five feet is kept open around each, and the grass spaces are cut at the same time with the lots on each side. I assure you this is a very satisfactory group. I would plant single specimens of both trees and shrubs wherever there is space for them, if the condition of the treasury will pei-mit. Do not be discouraged if you cannot set them all in one season; keep at it— plant some every year. Don't put them in hap-hazard; look out for effect, and get all the pleasing vistas you can ; and you will be surprised to find what a few years of steady, persevering, faithful work will do. Successful Pear Culture. iFruiu a paper read by John Pierce, before Miami County (O.) Horticultural Society.'] The Pear, according to Downing, is unde- niably the favorite fruit of modern times and modern cultivators. A native of Eu- rope and Asia, it has on our continent found a soil adapted to its growth and a climate calculated to more fully develop the fruit. The Pear is said to have been known to sur\'ive .'MO years and to attain to an enormous size. The great Pear tree of Herefordshire, England, shades half an acre and has produced in one season 300 bushels of fruit. A famous tree near Vinceunes, in our own country, at the age of forty years, produced 180 bushels of fair fruit. The Pear is not only profitable as a fruit tree but the wood is fine grained and heavy; Yankee ingenuity has succeeded in making of it a fair quality of ebon.v. The soil for the Pear should preferably be a tolerably heavy clay loam, with clay subsoil, although it will succeed in a greater variety of soil and climate than any other cultivated fruit. The selection of varieties should be determined by the object for which we plant. If for market I would plant few vai-ieties; say Madeleine, for very early; Bartlett, Duchess, Beurre d' Anjou, and Lawrence. If for home use I would plant about as follows, named in the order of ripening: Madeleine, Tyson, Bartlett, Sheldon, Seckel, White Doyenne, Duchesse, Beurre d' Anjou, Law- rence and Beurre Easter, or some other late var- iety. This will give an abundance of choice fruit through the season. If possible, go in person to some reliable nurse- ryman, take two-year-old trees, none older; se- lect good, stocky trees, have them taken up in your presence and immediately mossed, that the root may not dry, for therein lies the length of life and thrift of your tree. The ground having been previously prepared by deep plowing in the fall, turning under a liberal supply of manure, and marked twenty- five feet each way, dig two feet square and one and a half feet deep, fl 11 with rich loam to the proper depth to receive the tree, which should be a very little deeper than it stood in the nur- sery. The soil should be tramped well around the roots and watered, if dry; then two inches of dry soil should be put on top. The soil should be carefully cultivated for a few years, or until the trees commence bearing. Then, with an occasional top-dressing, they will be able to care for themselves. In closing, I must add that most varieties are better if ripened in the house, especially the later sorts, although thei'e are exceptions to the rule. The Philadelphia Chrysanthemum Show. Competent judges who were in attendance at the great Chrysanthemum Show of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society in Philadelphia, held Nov. 8th to 11th, were not slow to pronounce it the best show of its kind ever held in America. And among such judges must be included the numerous visiting florists from New York, Boston, and elsewhere, men who have themselves helped to make many a successful show. The most conspicuous exhibit was that of Craig & Bro., and which received the award of the grand prize fif $300. This exhibit consisted of a collection of 2.5 plants in as many varieties. The other entries for the prize were the follow- ing, to which fell the premiums connected with their names respectively : 2d Wm. Dewar, $150; M John Shaw, $100; 4th John Kinnear, $50; specials— W. K. Hairis, $40; Fred. Muller, $2.5; Karl MuUer, $20. In the Nui-serymen's and Florist's Class the following were the exhibitors with the rewards respectively : Six standards in 6 varieties, Craig & Bro. Six yellow, 6 varieties, W. K. Harris. Six white, 6 varieties, W. K. Harris. Twelve, one of a kind, W. W. Coles, J. W. Colflesh, Fred. Muller. Twelve Japanese, one of a kind, J. W. Colflesh. Twelve Chinese, W. K. Harris. Speci- men plant, white, W. K. Harris, W. W. Coles. Specimen plant, yellow, W. W. Coles, 3d W. K. Harris. Specimen plant, any other color, W. K. Harris, W. W. Coles. Specimen standard, Craig & Bro. Six single flowering, 6 sorts, 3d W. K. Harris. Seedling plant, W. C. Pyfer, W. K. Harris. Three specimen plants, 3 distinct colors, W. K. Harris, W. W. Coles. Special prizes were awarded as follows : The Wooton prize— 4 Chinese, 4 varieties— John Shaw, silver cup. The Pembroke prize — I Japanese, 4 varieties— W. Dewar, silver cup. The Red Leaf prize— 3 yellow, 3 varieties— W. W. Coles, $15. The Sunnyside prize— best seedling never before exhibited— W. K. Harris, silver cup; Ch. W. Trot- ter, silver medal; H. Surman (E. W. Clark) silver medal; J. W. Colflesh, bronze medal. Therecoi-d prize— 6 plants grown without disbudding— Thos. Eoulds (Mr. Singerly, Sr.), $25. Collection seed- lings not less than three plants, 1st H. Surman, 3d R. Carey; special, R. Carey, bronze medal. In the Amateur Class there were many exhibits, and these naturally attracted much attention from visitors. The display of cut flowers and floral designs, both in the line of Chrysanthemums and of other flowei-s, was large and attractive. The floral stork stationed at the entrance as if extending a greeting to the multitudes of visitors, and the pleasing fence made of Chrysanthe- mums, were a fitting introduction to the grandeur within horticultural hall on this occasion. Identification of Varieties of Hardy Orchard Fruits. ^Continue(t from page 'Ai.) The Peach is a fruit of plainly separated strains or races. We all know the distinctive type called Indian, with its peculiarly brownish and striped fruit and dark colored twigs. The Spanish and Chinese strains, now coming into successful culture in the South, where our common varie- ties of the Persian stock fail, have their own peculiarities of tree and fruit. All kinds easily divide into clings, semi-clings, and freestones. In form they are either round, oblong, pointed, like Heath Cling, or unequal. A crease or suture running parallel to the edge of the stone is found 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 57 in K''eater or less degree in all specimens, and is worthy so far as it differs in varieties. In color the Peach is much more constant than the Apple. It is (jneenish, cream-colored, white, yellow, red, or blushed, mottled, specked and striped with carmine, in all pos.sililc tints and shades. The color of the flesh correspomls quite well with the ground color of the skin. In text- ure it is firm and inclined to be tough, or like Louise. Some kinds are very dry and mealy, and others dripping with juiciness. Another reliable mark is the color of the flesh at the stone. The variety called Snow has no tint of red even there. But a gicat many kinds lU-e red or pink, with either white or yellow flesh. The color is yellow, orange, or a rich cream, with an over-color of red, which sometimes darkens into br(twn. Many varieties arc deli- cately marked with crimson and purple dots, and small specks. Thk klesh is usually molting, and colored a little deeper oimnge or yellow than the skin. It is almost free from any inclination to cling, and not red at the stone like the Peach. The bearing quality of flic tree is, thi-ough a series of years, a help in making out its \'aricf ics, ' and so is the st.^'le of the tree and twigs, anfl the color of the bark. What is known as the qualit.v of a fruit is gauged largely by the taste t)f the eater; but it ought, however, to give some idea n j^Uiuuuiiiiuuiiuuuiiuuuu Lluullllu^ln]^ uuuuuu uuuuu -W, — B 1 N — S- ROOT-CELLAR OF THE IOWA AQRICULTURAL COLLEGE FARM: LENGTHWISE SECTIONAL VIEW. The stone itself is plump and short (in Peen To about the shape and size of a very round Hazel- nut), or long and pointed, and very coarsely corrugated and apt to be split. The seed of Morris White appears as if it had been mashed at the base between the thumb and finger while soft. All of the Indian class have the point turned to one side or hooked. The downy covering of the skin differs in length and quantity and when entirely wanting the varieties are called Nectarines. In my experience I have grown Nectarines from Peach seeds. The Plum is represented in our orchards by at least five distinct species. The form in all is the best key to identity. Nearly all have a suture, and in some cases it is very marked. All are characterized by a smooth surface, covered with a bloom, which varies in thickness, except Prunus Simoni, of probable Asiatic origin, and P. glandulosa, which two species are some- what pubescent, like the Apricot. The flesh of all kinds is yellow or green of different shades, except a few Japanese varieties that are red to the stone. The character of being cling or freestime is as dependable as in the Peach. The length of the stem is with the Plum quite constant. Some have very long and others \ery short stems. The character of its attachment to the fruit is variable. The coI/OR of the skin is from pale whitish yellow to yellow, green, pink, red, purple, blue, and black. Our native species have all of the red and yellow colors, but none of the green, blue, or black so far as I have seen. The varieties of P. cMema seem to have a habit of being earlier in their sea.son of ripening than P. Americann. Wild Goose is a good example of the former, and Miner of the latter. Kelsey's Japan is remarkable in size and shape of the fruit, lieing as tender as the Fig, and its leaves and branches differ from other cultivated kinds. The Cherry. Downing di\ides them into two clas-ses, the first of Hearts and Bigarreaus, and the second, the Dukes and Morellos. The former is characterized by a heart shape, a mild or sweet flavor, and rather firm flesh. The color of the Bigarreaus is usually quite fair. The latter class has an oblate form, is never pointed, and the flavor is from a pleasant tart to a sharp sour. The Cherry usually has a suture, but sometimes a welt in place of it. The color of the skin is from white to black or nearly so. Nothing short of extended experi- ence mil enable one to determine the exact color which lielongs to a variety. Even then, no one can distinguish all. The flesh in point of color is very nearly like that of the skin. The shape of the seed corresponds with the shape of the fruit in a great measure. The length of the stem does not vary greatly. The depressit>n at the base of the stem is not jilainl.v contrasted. The Apricot reproduces from seed with com- paratively little variation. Their general con- tour is round, with an occasional elongated or compressed form. A well marked suture is peculiar to some kinds, and others have none. The pubescence is universal and never thick. The shape of the stone is a very good point of recognition, as some are nearly round and others broad and flat. The ta-ste of the kernel is a relia- ble index, as some are bitter, and some as sweet as an Almond. of thevariety. The peculiar flavor of a Westfleld, or an Esojius, is apt to be remembered. FROM VARIOUS SOURCES. A Model Root-Cellar. It was built by Prof. Knapp, on the Iowa Agricultural College Farm. An excavation was made U feet wide by 4^ feet long and 6 feet deep, and the sides and ends were walled up with brick. A drain was laid a foot or so under the floor, and running out at the back end and to a hollow below. The floor is brick ; a chimney provides ventilation at top and bottom. A door-wa.v 4 feet wide was made at the froiit with double doors at the bottom, also slanting doors at the top of the steps. Plates which bear the roof rafters were laid on the side wall, and also on posts each side of the center aisle. Earth two feet deep covers all. The inside is divided into two rows of bins, with an alley-way 4 feet wide between. The bins are 4 or .5 feet each way, and are partitioned off by boards nailed to the posts. In front loose boards keep the roots in place. At fii"St the roots were placed upon the brick tiled floor, but it was found preferable to put movable flooi-s in the bins, a few inches above the bricks, giving access to air and keeping the roots dry. If the timbers are all well soaked with hot tar, and then occasionally whitewashed, it will Ia.st many .years, and is a safe and convenient ar- rangement for keeping Potatoes and other roots. If entered from the barn or stable, roots could be fed to stock with uo trouble.— Prairie Farmer. A great place for Celery. It is in and around the fair and far-famcil city of Kalamazoo that the Celery lord, with all his innate pride and odor of garlic, may best be found. Here his coat of arms, consisting of a bunch of Celery penchant on a silver dollar guardant, may be seen embla- zoned on his armorial bearings and also on the faces of the shopkeepers. Here it is that over 3,000 acres of " reclaimed " land is devoted to the cultivation of the crisp and toothsome stalk that is gifted with nerve strengthening properties. In spite of the fact that Kalamazoo leads the country in light vehicles, wind mills, harrows and many other branches of manufacture, she still pins her faith and hope and trust to the Celery lands and the Celery lords.— Chicago Herald. Protecting Peach Trees. Energetic cultivators in the Northwestern .states grow su perior Peaches every year by gi\ing winter protection. Two methods are noted. In one, the trees are planted in a sloping position and trained to a flat, <«• fan- shaped form. Late in autumn the branches are bent down and covered with corn-stalks, which, by retaining the warmth from the soil, prevent hard freezing. The other method is to plant the trees at the base of a steep slope or high bank, when, by training in the same manner, the branches may be laid over against the bank, and covered as above noted. The expen.se of cover- ing is slight as compared with the value of a flne crop of Peaches.— Country Gentleman. Grafting Pears on Apples. We have received sijecimens f>f a Pear f n im a tree which was graft- ed accidently on an Apple ten years ago. The Apple is Lord Suffield and the Pear Paradise d' Autximme. The union between the scion and the stock we are assured is jjerfect; and we can t<'stif y to the specimens of both kinds of fruit being per- fect in development and excellent in flavor. Such an example of Apples and Peai-s growing on the same tree we have never known Ix^fore, and the skeptical may probably smile at the an- nouncement. We have in years gone by tried many experiments in the way of inter-giafting, but never succeeded in obtaining a union be- tween the Apple and the Pear which lasted lon- ger than tw(» or three years, the Pear scion having always died f)r been bk>wn off hy the wind. The experiment of grafting the Pear on the Haw- thorn has Ix'cn of ten made and made successfully, some \'arieties thriving even better iJY(ra Thuuhfrui}; Plum-leaved Spirtca, [Spirwa jtnuiifdlia); Lilacs, many sorts; Kough-leaved Viburnum, iV. ru- ynsuni); Lantana-leaved Virburnimi, (]'. laii- tatwidei*); Bush Honeysuckles; Tree Pa^ony. June Ffott'criHW.— Silver Bell Shrub, {Halegia); Lance-leaved Spirsea, (.S. lancaAata); Josika's Li- lac; Garland Mock Orange, (Philadelphus mrona- rius); Double flowering Mock Orange; Large-flow- ering Mock Orange, (P. yrajH/i/foru.s); D^vart' Snowball, {Vihitnuini pUcatuni}; Graceful Deut- zia, ( V. gracUvi); Double Deutzia, in several vari- eties; Weigela Rose and varieties; Red Branched Dfigwood; White Fringe, lChiouattthu>^). July Flnweriuif. — Alder-leaved Clethra, (C. aluifnlin); Billiard's Spira;a, (S. BiUardi); Fortune's White Spiraea, (S. caltosa alba); Fortune's Spirica, (S. CnHosa); Japanese Spiraea, (S. xjjecies Japunica); Oak-leaved Hydrangea, {H. quercifnlla). Flmc- erino iti August and tatci.- Altheas, Double and Single, (Hifti.sfii.'s); Large-panicled Hydrangea; Purple Fringe, {Rhus ciAinus); Variuusltj At- tractive. Money-wort-lea\ed Coteneaster, hand- some fruit. Prunus Pissardi, beautiful dark red foliage, all seasons; Purple-leaved Berberry, ^^o- let purple foliage; Variegated Cornelian Cherry, handsome white-blotched foliage; Silver-leaved Corchorus, white-edged foliage; Holly-leaved Mahonia, evergreen; Box, in \'arieties, evergreen. Flues for Heating. A. W. M. speaks about Roses, Palms and Ferns in houses heated by flues. I have not yet seen better Roses grown in houses heated otherwise than those seen some years ago where I served my aiiprenticeship, mostly Hybrid Perpetuals, forced in pots for sale and to cut flowers from; and there always remarkable success with them. It has never been my pleas- ure since to see such clean and health.v looking plants. I have had some experience in the same way recentl5% ha\ing myself been obliged to grf)W Roses in houses heated by flues. Our most suc- cessful Rose grower here in St. Paul has grown splendid Roses in houses heated that way. As ' / ENTRANCE , ,"/ \ PAS I SHEO. r Bj 2J i ■{ N S In . \SAGE h N s 1 1 r ] FiDur Plan of Root-Cellar. good results may be obtained in flue-heated houses as in any other, of course this where good flues only are used— not poorly built smoky affairs. The most important point with flues is to supply with the heat a sulflcient amount of moisture. This may be .secured by keeping water on the flues in shallow pans of zinc or gal- vanized iron.— American Florist. Sweating Apples. Many allude to sweat on stored fruits as something that comes from with- in the fruit, and which is to be regarded as a natural or necessary exudation. There is nosuch process as sweating in fruits. When men or animals sweat, they become covered with moist- 58 POPULAR GARDENING. December, ure passing throug-h the skin; when an Apple be- comes covered with moisture it is due to con- densation of moisture from without. The skin of a sound Apple is practically a protective cov- ering:, and designed for a twofold purpose: First, to prevent the ingress of air and moisture to the tender cellular structure of the fruit: and second, to prevent the loss of juice by exudation. Ai>ples taken from trees on a cool day remain at the temperature of the air until a change to a higher temperature oecui-s, and then condensation of moisture from the warmer air circulatmg around the fruit occurs, just as moisture gathers upon the outside of an ice-pitcher in summer. This explains the whole matter; and the vulgar notion of fruits sweating should be dispelled from the mind. It is almost Impossible to gather Apples under such conditions of temperature that they will not condense moisture after being placed in barrels. It would be better if this result could be avoided, as dryness of fruit is essential to its protracted keeping. In our northern autumns the days are hot, and the nights cool, and this favors condensation. Apples picked on a mod- erately cool day, and placed in a moderately cool shet., protected from the sun, will not gather moisture, and this is the best method to pursue when practicable.— Popular Science News. Burying Cabbage. The figure following shows bow Mr. E. L. Denslow, of Ashtabula Co., Ohio, stores Cabbage for winter as described and illustrated recently in the Kural New Yorker. A pit eight inches deep and three and one-half to four feet wide and of the proper length is first An Ohio Method of WUiteriiig Cabbage. dug, and boards or slabs are placed at the bottom The Cabbages are cut and well trimmed and packed in the pit, as shown. Frames of 2x4 inch scantling are made and placed upright in the pit. For a pit 15 feet long three of these are needed. Fence boards ai-e nailed to these frames, thus forming a complete crate. This is covered lights ly with straw and then with about four inches of dirt. The ends are stuffed with straw, which can be removed whenever Cabbage heads are desired. Plants for Unhealed Glass Houses. Those who have only unhcat4_*d bouses or pits have to be careful in their selection of flowers. It is useless trying to get plants here during the darkest period of the year that require artificial heat to enable them t<^ do so. There are, however, some exceptions to the list of heat-lo\'ing plants. First on the hst may be named the Chrysanthemums, they only need the protection of a glass roof to flower them in the greatest perfection, and by growing some of the latest blooming section a succession may be kept up till Christmas, and later. The Crimson Flag Schizostylis coccinea is also a real gem for the cool-house. It begins to send ui> its brilliant scarlet flowers in October. and continues for months. Lifted from the open ground in October, and planted in a cold grapery they will flower the whole winter through, and may be planted out again in March under partial shade. They also make excellent pot plants. The early winter-flowering Bulbous-Iris, hia veticulata, has a gi-eat future in store for it, its blooms being of the most lovely purple imagin- able, prettily streaked with orange, a fitting com- panion for the most costly Orchid. If potted in August or September it will be In full bloom in January. 1 put three bulbs in 4-inch pots, and five bulbs in li-inch pots. Anderson's Speedwell, Verotiica Atufemoni, only needs the protection of glass to insure its flowering freely throughout the winter, i)roducing purple blossoms. The common Christmas Uose, l/c»c&or»,s nigir, and its varieties, although often blooming in the open air are vastly improved under glass, as alternate frosts and thaws spoil the purity of their flowers. The Laurustiiuis is a really good cold-house plant, its blooms being much whiter under glass than out-of-doors. Erica hyemaUs and othei-s of that type dislike flre-heat in any shape, and are much m(!rc lasting in cold than in hot-houses. Other useful plants might be mentioned, but the above cannot fail to please.— (Jardenina: Illustrated. THE CULINARY DEPARTMENT. Jellies. Put a buttered paper, butter side down, o\'er them to keep from molding.— Farm Journal. All Canned Fruit should be kept in a cool dry and dark place, or wrap the jar in paper, as all fruit keeps the coloi*and flavor better if each jar has its paper wrap.— N. Y. World. Fried Squash. Pare the Squashes and slice thin, let them lie in cold salt water one hour, then dry in a towel, roll in flour and fry in boil- ing lard. Pepper them when laid on a flat dish. Apple Tarts. Pare, quarter, and boil in half a cup of water, ten large tart Apples; beat until smooth; add three beaten eggs, one grated lemon, half a cup of butter, one and one half cups of sugar ; beat all together ; line patty tins with a puff paste and fill; bake in a hot oven five minutes. Quinces baked with the skins on are delicious when served warm; put one on a saucer at each plate. If mashed with a knife, the core is easily removed ; then put on a little butter and plenty of sugar. In baking the quince loses the strong taste which is disagreeable to many, and retains a delicious flavor.— Practical Farmer. Warmed -Over Potatoes. Fry a sliced Onion in a si>oonful of butter, then push the Onion to one side of the spider, put in two spoonfuls of flour and stir until brown ; pour in a cup of milk and rub until smooth and add milk until of the consistency of gravy ; season to taste, then pour in a plateful of sUced Potatoes, cover, and keep on the top of the stove until hot. Beet Salad. Place boiled beets in steamer over kettle of water until warm, then slice and cover with following dressing; Two-quart bowl of sliced Beets, three tablespoons melted butter, salt, pepper and mustard to season rather sharply, and seven tablespoons of vinegar. Cover bowl while warm and place in cellar or refrigerator to cool quickly as possible. A very nice salad. Hnshroom Catsup. G et fine grown Mushrooms, break them up, sprinkle a good handful of salt over each layer. Let them lie for all the juice to run out, stirring them often, but put no water ; then strain and boil with a very little ginger and pepper. It is a mistake to give Mushroom catsup all kinds of flavoxings, as it is its own flavor which is all important to retain.— Farmer's Advocate. Apple Marmalade.— Take nice sound Russet Apitles, pare and core, cut in small pieces, and to every pound of fruit add one pound of sugar; put the sugar to boil, with just enough water to dissolve it, into a preserxing kettle, add one large Lemon to every four pounds of fruit, boil all to- gether until the syrup gets thick, then add the Apijle and boil until it looks clear. This is fine half Quince half Apple.— American Cultivator. Tomato and Bice Soup. Three pounds of Tomatoes, two teacupf uls of rice, one and one- half ounces of butter, two ounces of Onion, two quarts of water, salt to taste. Brown the butter, put in the Onion cut into small pieces, and fry till tender, pour on the water (boiling), add To- matoes, and stew gently 10 minutes, after which add the rice and let the whole simmer about 20 minutes. Do not cook longer, as the grains of rice must be kept whole.— L. I). Cranberry Sauce. Pick over and wash the berries, and put in the preserving kettle, with half a pint of water to one quart of berries; now put the sugar— granulated is the best— on the top of the berries ; set on the fire and stew about half an hour, stir often to prevent burning; they will not need straining, and will preserve their rich color cooked in this way. Never cook Cranber- ries bef t)re putting in the sugar. Less sugar may be used if you do not wish them very rich. Cauliflower left from dinner, if warmed with mashed, or fully boiled Potatoes, is an excellent breakfast or luncheon dish. Chop equal parts of each; add a spoonful of butter, and two or three spoonfuls of the white sauce that you have served with it; season nicely, and warm in a saucepan, stirring until it leaves the bottom and sides of the vessel. If there is no sauce, use enough milk or cream to moisten it. A little cayenne for seasoning.— Country Gentleman. Pickled Fears. Ten pounds of Pears, four and one half pounds of sugar, a half an ounce of whole cloves, three pints of vinegar. Remove the peel from the fruit, lea^ing on the stems, and press into each Pear one or two chives, according to its size. Bring to a b(.>il the vinegar and sugar, skira, and cook the Pears in the syrup until a broomcorn will penetrate them easilj'. I boil mine about 35 minutes, then fork them into a stone jar; boil the syrup a few moments be- fore covering the Peal's.— Mirror and Farmer. PREPARED FROM DIARY NOTES BT CHAS. E. PARNELL. QUEENS, N. T. HOUSE PLANTS. Abutilons. Blooming plants and those whose pots are well filled with roots like liquid manure at times. Young plants to be shifted as required. Pinch for se- curing bushluess. As fhere are cuttings, propagate. Agaves and Aloes. Keep rather dry and at about 40* to 51.1^. Sponge off the dust, etc. Ageratums. Nip back leading shoots and turn the plants occasionally. Give liquid manure at times. Air should be freely given on all favorable occasions, but carefully avoid drafts. Aim for a uniform temper- ature. Favor those requiring the most light and heat. Aspidistras. Treat as directed for Azaleas. Azaleas to be well supplied with water at the roots, and the leaves sjjonged off occasionally. Bambusa, Argentea striata, and Fortunei variegata, are excellent house plants when grown in small pots. They should receive liquid manure occasionally. Begonias. The flowering section to have a light sunny situation, and 55° to 60^" of heat. Plants out of bloom will bear partial shade. Callas will now require an abundance of water. Sponge off the leaves at intervals. Young plants com- ing on to be promptly repotted as required. Cob^ea scandens. Encoui-age growth by occasional liquid manuring. Guard against its enemy Green-fly. Cyclamens to be well supplied with water while in bud and bloom. Sponge off the leaves carefully at times, and Iieep close to the glass. Farfugium grande. When in a .state of slow gi'owth to Iiave the supply of water somewhat re- duced. Keep free from dust, insects, etc. Light .soil. Geraniums. Those that are blooming to be well supplied with water at the roots. Plants being win- tered over to be kept cool and dry. to prevent damp. Ivy. As the beauty lies in the leaves, keep them as fresh and clean as possible. Lantanas. Guard against Red Spider, the worst enemy. Give a light place, with about 55" of heat. Lophospernum scandens. Treat like Cobsea. If flowers are desired, don't give too large a pot. Mahernias. For bloom these plants require a light, sunny situation from now on. Moon Flower. Keep growing, and clean off Red Spider, Green-fly, etc. Excellent for the window. Othonna crassifolia. Water carefully to avoid In- jury from damp. Give a light, rich soil, and a temper. ature of 5t) degrees. Peristrophe. Limited pot room and a full exposui'e to the sun are necessary to develop variegation. Give liquid manm'e at times to pots fliied with roots. Pilea muscosa. Treat as advised for Othonna. Pittosporums. Keep cool and rather dry, otherwise treat like Ivy. Excellent for north or east windows. Plants placed iacellarsfor the winter tobee.xamined occasionally. Guard against damp, but do not permit them to shrivel or dry up. Rivina Humilis. Keep in a light, sunny situation, and at a temperature of from 55 to 60 degrees. Avoid extremes of heat. Sansevirea Zeyianica. Treat as advised for Agaves, except to increase the temperature to from 55** to 6(P. Saxifrage sarmentosa. Treat as advised for Oxalls. Sempervivums. Treat as advised for Agaves. Water from now on should be applied in the morn- ings. Let it be ()f the same mean temperature as the air in which the plants are growing. Never give a little; rather give none until the plants are dry enough to need it, then let It be done thoroughly. LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. Clematis. Spread several forkfuls of good manure over tlie rot)ts. I^ay the plants down and protect with Evergreen liranches. Evergreens and shrubs often suffer from snow ac- cumulating on them. Promptly shake such out. Hardy Herbaceous Plants. Protect by covering several inches deep with straw or salt hay. Secure by Evergreen or other branches. Lawns will be greatly benetited by an annual heavy dressing of well decayed manure, that two years old and pulverized as flne as possible being preferred. Leaves may be gathered and secured for future use at any time before snow. Movable trellises, stakes, plant supports of every kind, to be sheltered, repaired and repainted. Hoses of the Bengal and Bourbon classes, and the stronger growing varieties of the Teas, may be pro- 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 59 tected by beiidlUK over and ouveriuj; with soil, while the hardy Hybrid Pei-pi-tuals can be ^'Ivcn a good dressing over the roots of half decayed manure. Rhododendrons. The newer plantings ean be treated as advised for Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and may have Evergreen branches placed arr>und them, the butts be- ing set in the ground and the tops secured by stout twine, with a view to shading from the sun. Shrubs that have grown but little during the past season to be given a coat of well decayed manure be- fore snow falls. Trenching. All new beds, as well as those that have been used for years, will be greatly benefited if deeply trenched. This Is work for late Autumn. PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. Acacias. Neglect of free watering will cause the loss of both foliage and llowers. Seeds may be sown Ui increase the stock; shift young plants as required. Acalyphas. Guard from red spifler. To have these do their best, from now on give them a temperature of from ST) to ftl e treated as advised for Spinach. Roots in pits shi>uld have the coverings of earth gradually increased as colder weather approaches; a foot or more of salt hay or leaves placed over one .side of the heap will render easier access in severe weather. Spinach. In exposed spots cover with two or three inches of straw or salt hay as soon as ground freezes. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS. Asparagus. Treat as advised below for Rhubarb. Dandelions. As a winter salad, a supply can be secured by treating the plants as advised for Parsley. Figs in i>ots or tubs may be brought forward for early, placing in the warmest part of the early grapery. Grapes. In the early houses the vines will show signs of growing. Maintain an average temperature of (15 degrees during the night, with a rise of 5 or 10 de grees by day. Secure the new growth as it advances, and see that the borders are well protected by a thick covering of leaves or coarse, littery manure. Vines In the late hou-ses to be pruned, laid down and covcreil up after the leaves fall. Lettuce to be sparingly watered during damp, dulj weatlier, air freely on occasion, and keep the (ireen-fty in subjection by gentle fumigations two or three times a week. Remove all decayed leaves. Parsley roots lifted and placed lu boxes In November to be given a light, sunny situation, for growth. Rhubarb roots lifted in November can now bi' planted lu lioxesand then placed In any warm situation for an early supply. Roots for successhm to be so protected that they can be easily procured as wanted. Strawberries niay be brought into heat at any time now. Begin with atemperatureof 45 degrees, gradually Increasing until it reaches (jfl degrees. Gradually In- crease the supply of water as growth advances. Plants for later use to l)e protected from .severe freezings. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. Sunflower Seed It is jivnorally (.•nnuock-d thut to lui'd (his is ])r(nlu(.-tive of a tiloss on the pluni- agv of IdwIs not to hv otherwise obtainecl. The Point in the Case. < >ne of the great<)st trovibles in feeding poor prraiu, says the Farmers' Home Journal, is not in the loss as compared with ixoi}(\ grain, but in the fact that over-heated or nuisty grain causes many of the diseases which ordinaiily afflict fo\vls. A Hint for All Times. Poultry are early i-isers, and they thiive best if an early feed is i>ro\ided. Anyway don't permit them to be huddled in the poultry liouse, nuntrry and thii-sty, for an hour or two after sunrise. If such has been your habit, listen outside of their quarters to-mori'ow morning and judge for yourself if their noisy imi)atience and the venting- of their sjdte upon each other is not an actual loss to you.— Monitor. Fines in Poultry-Houses. In bnildmjr for win- ter operations a clicap Hindi- of iiro\ idint>- warmth may be de\'iscd in innstrurting a l»rick tino simi- lar to a grreen-Imuso tiui-, alon^- (tif tlnnr of the house, ending in a stove-pi|)c at the fartlit-st end. Thr heat is secured by altiicliing a grate t<' (he furnace eoinicctcd v. ith the Hue. < hily sullieient heat to keep the temperature abestigation has es- tablished this as a fact. The comb of a fowl may be considered its health indicati)r. The first Intimation a close obser\-er of his lloek has is the (condition of their combs. Comparatively few birds in their natural wild state die of disease. They have certain ways to keeji theni>elves com- paratively free from lice, "iti are not crowded in a space where oidy ~'5 sliould be; natuix''s (bird) laws are not transgressed, and they tliiivc in health. Domestic fowls are crtiwded, become lousy, get the *' cholera," r4)up, canker, etc— none of which would they ha\'e if Ijee were not prey- ing on their bodies— unless it is roup, whieh is caused by sevenil things. The first time you see a hen moping or refusing to eat, or one with feathei*s rumpled u]), or comb looking dark blue at the end, jack her up and I'tol: for bugs. You will tincl them. (Irease her well with an oint- ment made of lard and sulpiiur under the winps and over the vent and on the head. Perhaps, if you examine the roosts in the hen-house, by tak- ing them up and looking on the under side wherever the roosts rest on anything, you will be astonished to find the liitle led lice"<-ongre- gated tlier<-. These may be termed tlie chinch of the hen-house, as they toriniMit the i'owls at night ami return to their hiding places bel(ire the fowls leave the roosts. The roosts sliould fretiuentiy be washed with coal oil.— American Farmer. 6o POPULAR GARDENING. December, 77i/s being the People's Paper, it it open to all their Jncfuiries benrinQ on gardening. Cor^cHpondents are urged to anticipate the season in prfitenting questions. To asK, for instance, on April Ih or m irhnt Pens had best be aown. could bHng no answer in the May issue, and none be/ore June, when the answer would be unseasonable Questions received before the wth of any 7nonth stand a good chance of being ansivered in the next paper Kot more than three questions should be sent at one time. Inquiries ap- pearing without name belong to the name next following. Replies to Inquiries are earnestly requested from our reorders. In answering such give the number, your locality and name, the latter not for publication, unleaa Ifou desire. Write only on one side of the paper. 508. Hange of Quinces. Will they do well where it never gets colder than l(j or 15 below zero? 509. Sweet Potato Culture. Please give directions how to grow Sweet Potatoes, as to kinds to plant, when to plant, kinds of soil, etc. TjIO. Grape Question. How much earlier are Wor- deu and Whit* Ann Arbor Grapes than Sweetwater? 511. Double Glazing. Is such glazing in actual use and satisfactory after extended trial? I have seen it stated that two thicknesses of gla^ss retard the light unfavorably, and also that frost on the outer layer melts so slowly as compared with when there is but one thickness, thus causing quit* an objection. Who can tell?— A. I. Root, Medina, Ohio. 513. Pears for Market. Would you favor me with a list of some of the better aorts?-S. W.. New York. 513. Dwarf Apples for Profit. Can you advise set- ting these for profit?— S. R. J., Pennsylvania. 514. Forcing Bulbs Early. Desiring to have some Hyacinths and other bulbs early in bloom, I write for what treatment should he given them for an early crop of flowers.— C. J. W., Sa)-atoga Sjjrings, N. Y. 515. Grubs in Cyclamens. The bulbs of my Cycla- mens were so troubled last season with small white grubs that I finally threw them out. What could they ave been, and how best destroyed? -Amateur Florist. 516. Cyclamen Treatment for Continuous Bloom. How should Cyclamens be treated In order to secure flowers for the louge.st season?— C. C. S., Bucks Co., Pa. 517. Euphorbia Jacquinaeflora Culture. Would you kindly give a new subscriber some instructions on cultivating this plant?— W. W., Penobscot Co., Maine, 518. The Culture of Peppermint. Will some reader favor me with information on managing this crop, and oblige YousG Gardener. 519. Saving Zinnia Seed. What Is the best method of gathering these seeds, for I have been puzzled to know?-L. R. D.. West Park, N. Y. 520. Colored Plates of Fruit. Where can I get some of these of my own selection and not in plate book form?-E. A. S., New Milford, Pa. 5il. Blackberry, Stayman'sEarly. Is this considered worth growing? With nxe it has done nothing in the several years I have had It. :")32. Raspberry, Crimson Beauty. Has this any value for market In any place? Around here it is not much esteemed, the fruit being large but so little of it. Does it need special cotiditions?-(i. K., Hastings, Mich. 523. Raspberries for Canada. Would the Turner, Marlboro or Hausell stand the winter here if protected? — A. D.. Layicaster, Ontario. 524. Sources of Vegetable Seed. Will some of your readers kindly Inform me from where the main supplies of these arc drawn?— C. S., Harrisburg, Pa. 525. Preparing for Strawberries. Please tell me how to prepare a half acre for next spring's planting to se- cure the largest yield. What varieties would you ad- vise?- E. V.H.. Townville, Pa. f>2ti. Wormy Apples. Our crop for two years has been wormy and unsound, but otherwise good. Can you give us a pointer?— Cf. C, Council Bluffs, Iowa. 527. Market for Herbs. Would like to know where I could find market for large quantities of herbs, such as Anise. Balm, Feverfew (green), Hoarhouud, Corian- der, Rue, etc., etc.?— A. L., Atlanta, Ga. 528. Use of Pine Spines. Are they of value to mix with other leaves In compost making? They accumu- late with the leaves In the gathering. Would it not be better to burn them off, as grass does not grow where they lay? What value for mulching? 529. Renovating Old Trees. Some Maple trees In my yard are not as thrifty as I desire, and I write to know how to treat them?— A. .J., Sandusky Co., Ohio. 530. To Build a Brick Flue. What Is the usual size and character of a brick Hue suitable for heating a greenhouse 9 feet by Wi?— YmiNo (A arvenkh, Erie, Pa. 5^1. Azalea Leaves Dropping. Many leaves have of late fallen from my plants. Can you suggest what the trouble may be?— Anxioi;s, Columbus, Ohio. 5:J2. Chrysanthemums After Blooming. I should be much obliged for a few directions respecting their treatment now. 1 wish to take some cuttings and grow them for next year. When should 1 take the cuttings? —Young Grower, Springfteld, III. 533. Blanching Celery. Would some subscriber kindly favor me wlthdlrectionsfor storing with a view to perfect blanching? 1 have been trying It, but always lose a good deal by getting it too wet or too drv.— B.M.T.,Dalton. Oa. 534. Twig Blight. My orchard four years planted shows a kind of blight at the ends of many limbs. It seems to travel by rows. Ls It a disease, and If so, what Is the remedy?— P. B. W., Montgomery Co., Mo. 535. Draining the Orchard. I have concluded to set an orchard on land that Is disposed to be rather wet. I Intend to drain, but the question Is would It be safe to set out the trees next spring, and wait with the drain- age imtil leisure turns up afterwards for the work?— M.T., Burliuat"n Co.. Vt. c-,:u\. Propagating Umbrella Pine. Seeing this tree recently Illustrated, I would enquire by what means it is propagated?— Young Nur.seryman, Rochester, N. Y. 537. Pruning Evergreens. I planted a number of Evergreens the past spring, all but one of which grew well. Now If I knew how to prune them I should feel fortunate. Will you t^ll how?— G. W.. Charles City, Mo. 5:^8. Carnations for Cut Flowers. 1 would be glad for ..n outlined course of treating these plants from propagation to maturity.— R. R., Spi-inafleld, Mass. 53ii. Rhubarb Culture. This vegetable grown on a small scale convinces me that I could grow more with profit, hence I would be thankful for the best methods of proceedure.- J. W, L., Madisoi\, Wis. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 489. Weipelia Sosea for Hedge. Yes, this Weigeiia will make a pretty ornamental hedge if properly pruned and cared for. The plants should be placed from three to four feet apart, according to their size.— C. E. P. 4KI. Oranges not Setting. If you will place your Orange tree in a sumiy situation and main- tain an average temperature of .55'' when in bloom, at the same time giving air freely, the fruit will set. Carefully avoid extremes of drought and moistui-e also.— ('. E. P. 4J^1. Wax Plant Management. The Wax Plant, Hoya carnosa, should be given a compost, consisting of two parts turfy loam, one part well decayed leaf mold or cow manure, intermixed with a fair sprinkling of sharp sand. Select a porous or soft baked pot, and see that it Is well drained. If the pot is one-third filled with drain- age it is none too much. In potting keep the plant in the centre and pot firm. During the summer, which is its season of growth, it should be given a plentiful supply of water, but in the winter it must be kept rather dry and given an average temperature of .55'^. In a cool place the Hoya is of no use. The flowers show best when the plant is trained overhead, but it can be also trained in any desired manner. Keep the leaves clean of dust, insects, etc.— C. E. P. 505. Cape Bulb Culture. Ixias are half hardy bulbs, and should be grown in pots in the green- house, where they will bloom about mid^\inter. When done blooming gradually dry oflE and keep in a state of rest until September or October, when they should be repotted and started into growth. Sparaxis succeed well if similarly treated. Allium Moly is perf'>ctly hardy, and succeeds with the treatment given to hardy herbaceous plants. It produces in June hu'ge trusses of golden yellow flowers. Allium Xcni'olitanum is tender and requires the prott\tii in of the green- house. It bears large numbers of pure white flowers, and may be treated as advised for Ixias. Ornithogalums require similar treatment, and so do Freesias. The latter are the most beautiful of all, and as they force very easily can be had in succession from Christmas on. All of these do best in a compost of moderately enriched turfy loam, and require the pots in which they are growing to be well drained. They should be l)otted in September, and then placed in a cool dark situation, in order that their pots may be- conit' wrll tilled with roots before they are started into growth. -C. E. P. 497. Russian Mulberry Query. Early spring will be the best time to plant them. They can be planted in the same manner as any other tree or shrub. The distance and place will depend on the purpose for which they are wanted.— C. E. P. 498. Market Gardening Questions. The best varieties of Beets for market are the Eclipse and Early Blood Turnip. The best Sugar Beet is Lane's Imperial. The best vaiieties of Sugar Corn are the Early Minnesota for early. Early Concord fr the New York market. The best coml)inecI cultivator and drill for garden use is the Planet, Jr.— C. E. P. 499. Grapes in Florida. By all lueans procure state-grown vines.— ('. E. P. 503. Liquid Manure Making, Etc. Fresh ma- nure is best for making liquid nmnure. Its efl'ects, if used too freely or too strong;' on Roses, will be shown in the unhealth.\' appearance which they will assume.— C. E. P. 475. Dividing Tree Faeonies. They can be di- vided, but it should be very carefully done, and as early in the spring as possible. Even then their growth will be most materially interfered with for some two or three years. Tney are gen- erally increased by grafting on the roots of the herbaceous sorts.— C. E. P. 459. Protection from Eabbits. Kabbits can be readily prevented from runing fruit trees is to bring all that are thrifty and of rapid growth into a fruitful con- dition immediately, and is adWsable only on common standard trees, as it somewhat shortens their life. The operation can be performed at any time during the autumn or winter, and con- sists in opening a trench several feet from the trunk and cutting off the principle roots. This not only throws the trees into early leafing, but if repeated at intervals of two or three years causes them to assume a dwarf habit. It is a fair plan for amateui-s, but is hardly practicable on an extensive scale.— C. E. P. 462. Cultivating the Currant. Currants can be successfully grown in any deep, well enriched soil. And in order that they may be readily cul- tivated, it is best to plant them in rows of not less than four feet apart each way. After plant- ing cultivate freely so as to keep them clean and free from weeds, and every season just before winter sets in spread three or four more shovel- fuls of well decayed manure around the plants, and if ;it all possible fork it in early in the spring. After this all the attention they will require con- sists in keeping them well cultivated and gi\ing the annual dressing of manure. They should be also carefully examined every winter, and all superfluous woorl removed. One year old plants are to be preferred for planting, and this snould be done as e;nly ill the spring as possible. The Cherry, Bed or White Dutch, are the most profit- able varieties for market or home use.— C. E. P. 471. Moles in Orchard. Procure one or two Isbell mole traps, and faithfully follow the di- rections that accompany them. This may ap- pear slow work, but by the exercise of a litue patience it will prove to be an effectual and safe remedy.— C. E. P. 473. Foreign Grape Culture. The best vari- eties for a cold grapery are Black Hamburgh, Buckland's Sweetwater, Red, White and Grizzly Frontignan, Rose Chasselas, and White Sweet- water. For a house of thirty vines I would plant sixteen Black Hamburgh, four Buckland's Sweet- water, and select the balance from the remainder of the list. Chorlton's Grape Growers' Guide is an excellent work on the subject.— ('. E. P. 504. Mildew and Aphis on Roses. For mildew on Roses procure a bottle of Henderson's Mildew Mixture and apply according to the directions which accompany it. For the green aphis dis- solve two ounces of Tobacco soap in a gallon of water, and apply with an ordinary or bellows syringe. Henderson's Insect Death Powder is also an effectual remedy for the aphis. Apply with a powder bellows or gun.— C. E. P. 474. Northern Exposed Greenhouse. Unless your house is very small and tightly built, you will require something more than an oil stove to heat it. You must not expect manj' flowers from such a house, yet Camellias, Azaleas, Chi- nese Primulas, Oranges, Lemons, Chorozemas, Ericas, Epacris, Pittosporum, Jasminum gran- diflorum, Cestrum aurantiacum, and others, would do very well. But if you could maintain an average temperature of SS'^, Palms, Ferns, cool house Orchids, aud some of the more rare species of Cactus, would prove very satisfactory when grown in such a house.— C. E. P. 467. Pears from Seedling Trees If you allow them to remain on their own roots they will not fruit until they are eight or ten years old, but if grafted on the extremity of the branches of a bearing tree they will bear the fourth or fifth year,— C. E. P. 46.5. Pruning Dwarf Pears. I would allow them to take their natural form as fai* as pos- sible, merely removing all weak and crowded branches. AH strong or rank growing shoots should be pinched back when of moderate length.— C. E. P. 472. Hot-bed in October. You cannot do any- thing with a hot-bed at this season of the year, for from now on they require all the skill and care that experience can bestow upon them when ttiled with iirowing crops. They are more genenilly used tor starting the seeds of vege- table anical nature, and growing:' tlieiii (HI in heat until the proper sea- son arrives for jtlaeing them in the open air, and for this i)ur]nise nothing is gained by an inex- I)erienee(l peison starting them 1 efore the mid- dle of March. E\ en then they re<|uire a certain auKiunt of attention, and unless given at the proper time, failure is certain.— C. E. P. 470. Sweet Peas Failing. They were given too rich a soil. Next season try a deep, but mod- erately enriched soil. It is best to manure the grouncl the year previous in order to avoid too rank a L-^rowth. In very rich soil during a wet season thev are very apt to grow all to straw, and then tney will not flower until the growth is checked.— C. E. P. 487. Propagating Grapes Out-of-Doors. Plant the e\ittiiigs where they are to remain until well rooted. Let them be about five inches in length aud place iTi rows two feet apart, the cuttings iH'iug two inches apart in the row. Cover with evergre<-ii boughs as soon as the ground freezes, to pre\ cut their being displaced by repeated thawings and freezings.— C. E. P. 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. 61 176. Cnttinf^iof lapageriaBosea. Feat is the best soil, but tlie cuttings take a long time to t'oira routs. Tliey should be Itept under liell- glasses until they are rooted. A greenhouse teuiperatu!*e is best. The plants arc propagated by layers, in preference to cuttings. A strong shoot ought to be pegged in-to the ground with the leaf at eacli joint protruding; roots and shoots will grow from each eye in the course of twelve months.— A. H. E. 48;i. Booting Le Conte Pears. The Le f'onte Pear does not grow very readily from cuttings, except in very favorable locati()ne. one of which is Thomas^ille, Ga. The cuttings are made of pieces of matured wood about six to eight inches long, which are cut just below a bud and set early before vegetation starts in spring. The rooting commences at the buds and is much more certain when the cutting is made with the bud near the bottom of tli'' i-'utting. The season and st)il hiis much to do witli the success. The entire cutting, except the upper bud, should be set in a loose, warm soil, well firmed. Warm sun and a fair amount of m( )ist ure adds much to the chances of success, which anywhere, except in Thomas- ville, Ga., is very uncertain. We should advise root gi-afting the Le Conte on pieces of Apple roots having the bud near the junction of the Apple roots. The cutting is kept alive by the Apple root, to which the Le Conte takes kindly until it makes roots of its own, which it does in such cases readily, then when well rooted the Apple root, being of no farther use, can be re- moved, gi\ing a (>erfectly rooted Le Conte.— Eli MiNCH, Shiliih. I\'. J. 4ft5. Transplanting Young Walnuts. These can be transplanted in fall or spring, if care is taken not to break or cut the roots too much. They will not stand rough usage like many of our forest trees.— P. 496. Peaches from Seed. Peach-stones should be planted in the fall in an exposed place, in moist soil, where they wUl have the full action of irost. In the spring raanj' of them will be found opened and the kernel exposed; the remainder can \x carefully cracked and the kernels planted permanently an inch and a half deep. — P. ■49.5. Transplanting Young Walnuts. There is but a small portion of this country in which the shell-bark or shag-bark Hickory {Caryaalha) is known as Walnut. But Mrs. J. D. E. must mean this Hickory. Three-year old seedlings of nearly all this family of trees, especially the Hickorys, left to grow undisturbed where the seed was planted will not live when transplanted, tnless great care is taken. Seedlings of this family usually have a main or tap root running directly downwards, and make but few small side roots under two to four years, and when these do form, they are so deep down in the ground that a sufliciency of them to support the tree when transplanting is hard to get. Therefore, as a rule, all such seedlings should be transplanted when one, or at the farthest, two yeai-s old. This transplanting gi\es them, after gi'owing one or two \'rai-s, jtlenty of roots that can be got when tran.s'phuitiiig again. Mrs. E. should dig out her seedlings \ery deeply, getting all the tap root possible; then dig a hole deep enough to plant ttie tree two or three inches deeper than it was before lifting, and i>ack good surface soil very firmly around the root next spring or this fall!— D. B. WiEH, hacon. lU. .514. Forcing Bulbs Early. Where Hyacinths, Tulips, etc., are reifuired for early flowering, one sees various plans employed for forwarding thera, and amongst others the objectionable one of keeping thera close as soon as potted, forgetting that root action must be in full sway before the flowers will advance. For early flowering the chief point is to pot early ; then to place the pots out-of-dooi-s, and cover them with coal ashes to prevent damage by slugs, and also to keep the bulbs in a more unifoi-m state as regards tem- perature and moisture than when exposed. Treated in this way, by the middle of November the pots will be full of roots and the tops just starting— that is, if they were potted early in Septemlier. When introduced into the forcing house rafist progress is made when the crowns are kept in darkness ; therefore at that time they mav be plaieil anywhere underneath the stasre. and should ha\c another pot inverted over thciu. as they can then lie examined at any time with- out inconvenience. Lilies of the Valley, on the other hand, flower without any signs of root action ; therefore they may be introduced into heat iis soon as potted ; indeed, when recjuired to bloom before Christmas such a course is abso- lutely necessary, and for that ]jurpose well ripened crfiwns must be obtained, and they can- not be had thoroughly ripe much tx-fore Novem- ber. A prettv subject for fiireing, and one with which then- is but little ■iillirolt.N'. is the Siberian .Siiuill (S<'( i»e in the old mold will be got rid of, and the plants will be tree for the season.- A. H. E. 517. Enphorbia Jacquinseilora Culture. Not the least of the merits of this plant is the fact of its blooming at a time when flowers are scarce, viz., from the middle of December to the end of February. It requires a high temperature, noth- ing less than 65° or 70» is sufliciently high for it. Young shoots taken off with a heel in February, inserted in light, sandy soil, and placed in a close, moist heat will root freely. They should be potted off before the roots get entangled together, using a mixture of about three parts good light loam, one of leaf-soil, and one of well-decayed cow manure, with a good sprinkling of sand, after which they shotild be replaced in strong heat till established in the new soil, when they may be removed to an ordinary greenhouse for the summer, and be repotted at discretion. The plant may with advantage be trained up a trellis, as in this form it occupies less space than amongst other plants. .529. Benewing Old Trees. In answer we can- not do better than to give the directions which the late Ben: Perley Poore, a most successful tree grower, put into practice in the case of both forest and fruit trees. This was to dig a trench four feet in width and three feet deep around the tree. A ball of earth was by this means left directly around the trunk of the tree, containing the main roots. In this trench he would put soil, with liberal allowances of manure, refuse from a blacksniith's forge and some potash, and have them all well mixed together. The effect of such treatment wsis to clothe the tree with the luxu- riance and vigor of a young tree. 531. Azalea Leaves Dropping. There is noth- ing unusual in the leaves of Azaleas falling off in the autumn— in fact, it is perfectly reasonable for them to do so. They do so in large numbers when in perfect health at this time of year, but it is quite necessary to water them with great care from this time until the end of February, as the soil should be kept only just moist, and not wet, for days together. 5.32. Chrysanthemums after Blooming. I have tried several ways of managing my plants after blooming, and have found the following tf) answer admirably: As soon as the bloom is over I cut them down to within 6 inches of the soil, and place the pots in a well protected frame, in whic'h it never quite freezes, and let them have plenty of air. They will soon throw up strong healthy cuttings, which can be taken off when about 3 or 4 inches long, and inserted in sandy soil, around the sides of :3-inch pots. Then water well and they will soon root.— C. W. 492. Pests on the Mushroom Bed. Mice betray their presence by the prints of their front teeth (ra the portion attacked, and rats make holes in the beds. The ordinary traps will be found effec- tual, or one may readily Iw improvised with the aid of a flower pot. For wood-lice, place Pota- toes cut in half and hollowed out,in their haunts. They will congregate on the Potatoes, and a dip in boiling water will soon settle them. The pas- sage of snails may be ea.sily tracked; visit the beds at night, when they can quickly be found, or jihue hi 're and there little Ileal is <'t damp bran orbits iif cabbage leaf. These traps should be frequently examined. The flies are attraeteil in clouds by 'the manure; they may be destrnyeil by placing about a number ot pans filled with water, to whicha few drops of oil or turpentine urs.iapy water have been added. They are attracted by the odor, and thus drown them-sehcs. If a float- ing light is placed in a convenienient pnsitinn, they will fly around it, burn their wings, ami fall into the water. Mite'S may be destroyed by lime- water, and beetles mu.st be hunted for.— A. H. E. 485. Onion Planting in the Fall 1 would not advise any ( me to plant Onion sets in the fall. The repeated thawings and freezings would throw them out, and eventually destroy thera. Potato Onions should be iikintid early in the spiing in rows eighteen inclies apart, the bulbs being filaced four or Hve inclii's a|iart in the row. 486. Oreenhouse in Small Town. 1 do not think that the profits arising from the sale of flowers alone would be enough to warrant a be- ginning, but if you wiaild a- slmw color, and, when under glass, they ha\-e aluinilance of air. For mildew, wash the leaves with soft soai) and water and dust with flowers of sulphur. — A. H. F. 482. Oranges not Setting. Flowers of cultivated Oranges are often imi>erfect, and when this is the case cannot, of course, produce fruit. If they are examined soon after they expand, it will be seen what flowers are perfect, and what are male flowers, only producing stamens. In the jterfect flower, the' st.\ie suniiouiiteil by n iirmiiinent stigma will equal the staiiieiis in lenjjth at flower- ing time, wiierea.s thest>ie in ntllersis \'ery often rudimentary, and such flowers iK^ver produce fruit. The house should be kept dry and airy in which flowering ( iranges are grown, and this will assist the setting of jierfect flowers. 489. Weigelia Bosea for Hedge. The Weigelia has been tried with fine success, making very fine hedges. The distance apart will depend much on the size of the plant you use; say, small plants eighteen inches apai-f . larger ones in proportion. It does not flowi'i- niueli when cut close, but makes a very pretty dwarf hedge. 469. Cutting Scions. I prefer to cut about the end of November or first of December; tie in bunches label securely, and pack in sawdust in dry, cool cellar until wanted for use.- C. E. P. 488. Evergreen Hedge in Shade. The Ameri- can Arbor Vitic will be the most suitable for the purpose. Do not trim it back severely, and every fall give a dressing of good, rich compost, this to be worked in in the spring. 479. Apples for the South. A list embracing two dozen select varieties might comprise the following: Sunimet\ Early Red Market, Family. Horse or Haas, Hominy, Julian, Red Astrachan. ^i/(i(nui, Buncombe, Carter's Blue, Carolina Greening, Equineletee, Tauntrm. Yapp's Favor- ite. IViutfr. Black Warrior, Ben l)a\"is. Common Pearmain, (_'hatfahoochee, HoeketCy Sweet, Mav- erack. Moultrie's, Pryor's Red, Romanite, Shock- ley, Stevenson's, Yates. The majority of these can only be obtained from Southern nurseries. 5.33. Blanching Celery, One of the most com- mon causes of Celer.v not keeping in trenches is from getting wet, or else freezing too hard after blanching, leading in either case to rot. Celery should also be set perfectly upright, for if this is not done it will fall down more, causing it to curve out of shape, and if rotting begins it will spread faster. An approved course of treatment is to make a trench in drained soil and to be at least two feet deep,— three would be better, — and about a spaiie's width. The trench mav be several hunilieil feet lung. Info this the Celery should be paekeil staniling upright, after which the trench should be eo\ereii with boards to keep out wetness, and on top of the boartls two feet of soil. There should be straw over the open ends. 4.5.S. Fig Culture North. The trees can be grown in the North in sheltered situations, by laying them down in winter and covering with earth, forest leaves or evergreen branches. Or they may readily be brought along to fruit in tubs or boxes, placing thera in a pit or cellar through the winter. Under such circurastances their outdoor culture could of course never be followed to any great extent with advantage, or beyond gratifying eiiriosit.v. The trees are mainly propagated bj' seeds and cuttings, the latter only answerin'.r fur iierpefuating the im- proved varieties. Cuttings nia.\- be taken off late in the fall, and kept in the cellar until sjiring and then be planted out. Green or summer cuttings may also be rooted with bottom heat. The Fig is siiffieiently harily fostand the ordinary winters of sertiiins s'uutli iif Washington. In the North the eu\ eriiig of t.'artli should be aiqilied in No- vember and taken off in April. It should be about six inches deep. 4.50. Gladiolus Failing. I think that the bulbs of yeur Purpurea aurea were destroyed by worms; or else you planted them in contact with rank stable mainire. Either would cause them to act in the manner ymi describe.— C. E. P. 519. Saving Zinnia Seed. As soon as the flowers have faded or liefore frost jiick the heads and spread them out thinly in a dry place under cover till thoroughly dry. If only a few are to be saved, when ilr> . they may be cleaned by rub- bing the heads between the hands to remove the dried petals, then winnow by i>ouring from one pan to another in a light wind.— L. W. Goodell. 4.59. Protection from Babbits. Not haxing crude petroleum in the Far West, I reply as fol- lows: Melt together one third Frazer axle grease and two thirds lard; when cold, apply to the trees by rubbing a little in the hands, then rubbing the tree, one application in early winter is sufficient; it has given me the best of satisfaction the past five years.— S. Hilton, Spokane 0>.,Wash. Ter. 62 POPULAR GARDENING. December, 463. Plants for Bockwork. For ai species well suited to this purpose we would name Thrift fArmcria vuloarix); Wooly Milfoil lAcMUea tomcrilosa); Alyssum saxatile: Acjuilegia Cana- densis; Rock Cress {Arabia Alpixa): Sandwort (^7-C7i07-io); Meadow Saffron (Biilhocodium ver- mim); Aubretia; Harebell iCamiminila rntundi- fnlia); Cerastium tomentosum; Spring Beauty laaytonia Viryinica); Herbaceous Oematis; Gentiana acaulis; Ground Ivy [Nepeta Olcchoma); niuets (Hiiu.itiinia cirnika); Lychnises, Oxalis Violacea; Penstcmon acuminatus: Low Phloxes; Saxifragas in variety; Seduras in variety; Silene Alpestris: Alpine Speedwell {Vetrmica Alpina). 513. Dwarf Apples for Profit. We do not ad- vise setting these for market. They are fine as ornaments, and when large trees cannot be well grown a few dwarfs may be for fruit.— A. M. P. 512. Pears for Market. We can find nothing better for standard than Bartlett, Sheldon, Seckle, Howell, Lawrence and Mt. Vernon; and for dwarfs, Duchess de Angoulema, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Buerre de Anjou, and Howell.— A. M. P. .533. Baspberries for Canada. Both Marlboro and Turner are perfectly hardy in Western New York, and should be in Southern Canada. Han- sell has the reputation of being hardy. 446. Grubs in Strawberry Land, I would plow the land as thoroughly and deeply this fall as late as possible, and then give a heavy dressing of lime, wood ashes or any other concentrated or commercial fertilizer. Allow It to remain In this rough condition aU winter. A moderate dressing of salt applied in the same way would probably be beneficial.— C. E. P. 527. Market for Herbs. We do not beUeve there is any large market for any of these herbs —or even a small one— only a few bunches are of such things sold, even in New York.— P. H. 531. Blackberry, Stayman's Early. This Black- berry appears to be of no value on our grounds. It kills back considerably in winter and matures very little f ruit.— E. S. Goff, Genera, N. Y. .532. Baspberry, Crimson Beauty. As grown at the Station this variety is fuUy up to the average of the Red Raspberries tested. It is a very rtgor- ous grower, the fruit is large, rather deeper red and rather softer than that of the Cuthbert, of excellent flavor, and is produced abundantly. The tips killed back slightly last winter, but not sufficient to prevent an excellent crop the past season.— E. S. Goff, Staff Farm, Ocnera, N. Y. 498. Market Gardening Questions. The best early Beet for market is Eclipse. The best late Half Long Blood Beets, or where a round beet is preferred. Blood Turnip Beet. White Sugar Beet where it does well is preferable to any other. For the last two years the most profitable sweet Corn with me has been the Marblehead for early and the Landreth for second. In my market garden- ing business these two varieties have given me better returns than any others tried.— M. M. ,504. Mildew and Aphis on Boses. Dust over the whole plant with tobacco dust and flowers of sulphur united. I find it checks or pre- vents these on every plant subject to them; only, with this as with all other remedies, the applica- tions have to be kept up. No single application of anything is effectual.— Mansfield Milton. 480. Boot Pruning Fruit Trees. In an orchard here the Apple trees are about a dozen yeare planted. Soil sandy and richly manured, and we crop between the trees with vegetables. The trees grow a good deal but do not fruit enough to please me. Last Seiitcmher I root pruned sixty trees— described a circle around the trees 4 to 6 feet away from the stem, according to the size of the tree, and threw out a 3 feet deep trench which was Immediately filled up again. I want to stop this ovcr-lu.xurianee. If I get the trees once into the way of heavy bearing, I can keep them so, and manure and cultivate the ground between too. By summer pruning I can check luxuriance in Pear trees enough and get them weU filled with fruit spurs without any root jiruning.— W. F. 485. Planting Onions in Fall. I plant Danvers and Wethersfleld C)nious iu September In ground too light for seed Onions In spring. The.v now are up some six or seven Inches. The.v live well and are sure to yield a good crop. If the ground is empty In September what's the use of .saving the sets In the house over winter? No, plant them iu the fall, they U<> lully ;i-^ well and It's so much work past. But as Potato < uiiutisllke rieh heavy land, and they are not ai)t tosi)r"ut if kept indooisover winter. I .lehiy planting; them till .\prll. But I have planted them in tlu- fall with k i etii.ii^'h sueeess. I wouldn't bother with top ouions.— W. v.. Lung Island. 506. Everbearing Strawberry. Yes, there are sev- eral of them, but In my opinion the best of them Is poor enough. I have a bed of them here, and I can pick a dish of berries from it most any ilay from Juue till October, but they are small and poor, and for all the crop they bear, not worth growing.— W. Falconer. 528. TJse of Pine Needles. Don't use them among leaves for leaf nuthl. Don't burn them If you can use them as an ab.sorbent In the manure yard or as bedding In the hog or cattle yards. If you cannot use them In this way cart them Into a heap In some hollow and let Ihem rot there, and a year hence spread them on the ? round as a foundation for a manure pile. Don't let hem lie on the gra-ss around the trees as they will In- jure the grass. Better rake them off and use a scatter- ing of rotted manure instead. They are a capital mulching for trees of their kind, and before they begin to rot. for vigorous herbaceous perennials as (^yprlpe- dlums, Bellworts, Triliiums and the like whose crowns need a little protertion from sunshine in winter; also, if thinlv used, over dwarf evergreen plants as Veroni- cas. Dianthus and other alplnesthat are perfectly hardy so far as Inteuslt.v of cold is concerned, but need a little shading in frosty weather.— W. Falconer. Laying Out the Front Yard, The accompanying engraving sketched from an actual e.^ample shows what can be done to render even a small-sized front yard attractive by judicious methods. The original of our sketch is a town lot about 35 feet in width by upwards of .50 feet long. It is seen that a large assortment of hardy shrubs (fi8 in all) are introduced, mainly In the outskirts of the place, besides an oval bed planted to Roses, several other flower beds, half a dozen ornamental and shade LAYING OUT THE FRONT YARD trees, and yet space for ample stretches of lawn is afforded, and there are plenty of good walks, also. The chief merit of this plan lies in its gen- eral simplicity, and in the fact that the central space is in the main unoccupied with shrubs and trees. The small oval plat in the front half, and which is planted to Roses, affords an exception to the prevailing prin- ciple referred to. But this is in such a mod- ified form that it tends to enhance rather than diminish the fine general effect. Concerning the principle of a compara- tively open center, such as is here seen, we never tire of calling to it the attention of all planters. Its advantages: It affords an extended view of the entire area, giving an i idea of breadth and repose without which no garden can be satisfactory. The shrubs and trees are advantageously located in a more or less continuous line towards the outskirts, affording the best possible oppor- tunity for being seen to advantage, both individually and collectively. Something may be said in favor of the walk arrangement here shown. It is, that the walks, with being double in character, provide a pleasing balance to the parts of the lot, besides permitting the center of the area to be in grass, an arrangement which, without any exception, is an advantage for fine appearances. In such a case the walks when well kept— and they must under such circumstances be well kept — in themselves also serve a distinctly ornamental purpose. The idea of a somewhat increased expense in making and keeping them must, how- ever, not be lost sight of by economical gardeners. Such might prefer a single walk, keeping it somewhat to one side of the middle of the lot. Even in that case it might by the introduction of one or more graceful curves, with a group or two of shrubs in each bend, be made to present altogether a pleasing appearance. How to get a Large Crop of Straw- berries. J. M. SMITH, GREEN BAY, WISCONSIN, In answer to inquiry No. 53.5 I would say that my system of preparing the ground and setting and growing a crop of Straw- berries is as follows; My soil is a rich sandy loam, and made yearly richer by heavy manuring with stable and barnyard ma- nures, it ibeing put on at the rate of .35 or 40 two-horse loads per acre. Generally we put about one half of what we design for the beds upon the surface and plow it under, and the balance is put on after plowing and harrowed in. The last named should be well rotted and thoroughly mixed with the soil, otherwise it will be very troublesome in setting and tending the plants. If my soU was a heavy clay, I should prefer fall plowing; but being it is not, I cannot yet see that it is improved by pursu- ing such a course. But whether the soil be a heavy clay or something else, it must be put iu the best of order before any plants are put in the ground. It must be well drained. K it has been previously underdi'ained, all the better; but it must be well surface drained, for the plants will not do anything like their best if their roots are for any length of time in a soil that is thoroughly saturated with water. When the beds are ready for setting they are marked off' in rows two feet apart each way. And now comes the important ques- tion. What shall we set ? I have spent much time and money within the last 35 years try- ing to get something that would do better with me than the Wilson, but have not yet succeeded, unless the Manchester, which I have had on trial tor some years past, shall prove to be its superior. In selecting plants for setting take none that have ever borne fruit. Select good, medium sized runners of the previous fall's growth, and set as marked, two feet apart each way. Cultivate carefully during the summer. Pick off the blossoms, and keep the entire growth and strength confined to the plants. As they throw out runners train them around the parent plant in a circle like the spokes of a wheel, the plant being the centre. Allow no weeds to grow. When the ground becomes sufficiently frozen to allow a team to go over it, cover the plants with marsh hay, though straw is equally good provided there are no foul seeds in it. Cover the plants sufficiently deep to hide them from view. The follow iug spring after the ground is done freezing and thaw- ing, take off the cover and put it in a stack, and it may be used again the next winter. Clean out all the weeds that make their ap- pearance, being careful not to hoe too deep, or so deep as to injure the roots of the plants. Now comes the picking season. If they have done well, the beds are nearly full of strong healthy plants and they are full of fruit in all stages of ripening, from the oc- casional blossom to the occasional ripe berry. It needs care to get through them without injuring the fruit. But your query was concerning the getting of a large crop, and by following the above plan I rarely fail to get from a large to a very large one. If Crescents or any of the stronger growing varieties are used, three feet apart each way is sufficiently near. They will cover the ground. By following the above plan I do not consider 300 bushels per acre an extra large crop. In fact the yield on my ground for the last two years has exceeded that amount, although the drought has been the worst ever known. 1887. POPULAR GARDENING. THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* XII. BY A WELL-KNOWN HOKTICULTURIST. Continued from page 29. Heeling-in the TREE.S. Let US now sup- pose that the planting stock ordered from the nursery has arrived at the grounds. As some time must naturally elapse, in ca.se quite a number of trees, etc., are being set, before all can be planted, a first step should Fig. 37. Three Tear Tree in the Nursery; dotted line shoiDing place of cutting the mots in digging. Upper igure shoics a one year Tree. be to heel them in well by the roots. This for the special purpose of thorough protec- tion against the possibility of the roots dry- ing out; and, to have the trees set con- veniently in a line so that the individuals and their labels can easily be seen, and can be taken out promiscuously as wanted, without unduly exposing the roots of those remaining back. It is to be borne in mind that evaporation goes on constantly from every twig of the tree and from the trunk, as well after as before digging. If then from lack of proper heeling-in, the roots are ex- posed in any way, or if, the soil lies but loosely against them preventing their drawing in moisture, the injury to the tree may be very marked without its being even suspected. Evergreens especially,being in full leaf, are very liable to suffer if atten- tion to these points is disregarded. My method of heeling in trees may thus be described : A trench about one toot deep and two feet wide is dug in mellow soil at one or more points convenient to where the planting is to be done. Into this trench the trees, etc. are stood and fine dirt is sprinkled over and among the roots, to come in con- tact with all parts, finishing by filling in the earth first thrown out. The soil over the roots is then well firmed for laying com- pactly against every root. With such treat- ment they may remain for days, with little harm. Still, good heeling-in must not make one feel easy in delaying planting. Pruning and Setting out Trees. Here are matters concerning which there is need of very clear light for the inexperienced, as without doubt nine out of every ten such commit more or less serious blunders in this with bad results. Where the liability to error comes in is, that the average planter, of small or no experience, seems to have an inordinate desire that the top of his tree shall be preserved full and perfect as it came from the nursery, and having little thought of the comparative size and strength of the root beneath. He has not yet learned that it is the extent and vigor of the root which should be the leading consideration in all planting; that if the root be poor, or out of balance with the top it supports, that the future of the tree cannot be promising. To gain a right understanding of this sub- ject the annexed engravings will assist. In • Copyright, 1887, Popular Oardenlng Publishing Co. the act of digging, more roots are invariably lost to ordinary trees, say three years and over old, than one easily appreciates, while the top is not similarly affected. Fig. .'i7 goes to illustrate this idea by a cross-sectional view of a nursery tree, the place of cutting the roots in digging being shown by the dotted line. It is seen that the main roots are cut at points that allow of not above one-third to one-half of those being retained, while those lost are mostly the net-work of fine roots. To get a still clearer idea of this, let a circle be scribed on the tloor, one foot from a center (representing a tree) as being the point at which the spade cuts the roots in digging, and another at two and a half feet from the same point as describing the average length of the main roots, and then compare the area inside of the first circle with that between the first and second for realizing how great must be the extent of fine roots remaining back at digging. It is safe to estimate that usually not above one-fourth of all the roots are retained to such a tree in digging. It is right in this matter of retaining a large proportion of roots that the advantage of one or two-year old trees in preference to older ones arises. In the upper part of Figure 37 is shown a one-year old nursery tree, with the probable line at which the root would be cut in digging. By compar- ing the percentage of the roots here remain- ing to the tree with the vastly smaller pro- portion retained by the larger tree, it is not ditficult to understand why, with the same care in digging, planting and after culture for both, that the younger should so gener- ally reach maturity in uctiially Icfis time than is re(juired for those some years older. It has long been observed that the greater the experience of a planter the more apt is he to choose young, vigorous trees for setting, while usually the less experience possessed the larger the size of tree demanded. But assuming that Figure 37 inside of the dotted line very nearly represents the aver- age nursery tree as regards loss of roots in Fig. 38. Planting very badly done, after a prevalent method. Fig. 89. Planting well done and with due regard to pruning. TWO WAYS OF 8ETTINQ THE TREE OF FIG. 37. digging, we may now consider what would constitute good and bad planting of such a tree. Figures .38 and 39 show respectively the same tree, as planted, in the former case about as badly as could be done, yet after a a very prevalent fashion, in the latter set out as a wise planter would do his work. The essential difference of the two methods is easily seen; the first having had regard more to the top, the other to the root. We may assume that the planter of Figure 38 beheld in his tree fresh from the nursery this hand- some top and shape, to interfere with which, by pruning, he could not think of doing for fear of spoiling it. He knew that roots be- long under ground, and to accommodate these a hole was easily dug, for as done it was both too narrow and too shallow. It seemed large enough until the tree wa.'f brought into place when it was found nec- essary to cramp and crook the roots to get them in at all, but this was easier done than to enlarge the hole, so it was allowed to answer. Soil was thrown over the roots of course and this no doubt was tramped somewhat, and there stood the tree, so far as appear- ances above ground were con- cerned, as handsome as ever it appeared in the nursery, and the owner congratulating himself on how he was improving his place by tree planting. But how it really compared (top aside) with its former self , the roots now much shortened, tortured and laying in masses, and having air spaces beneath them and clods at the sides and above, and withal set so ^2"JJ^.t shallow that the crown as well as divers turned up root ends appeared in sight above the natural surface, the two Figures 37 and 38 show clearly enough. It is no wonder that following the great amount of such planting always going on, the loss in dead trees annually should be so great. But the same tree in the hands of a good planter would fare very differently. His first thought would be to secure something like a corresponding balance between the top and the much shortened roots. Looking over the tree (Figure 37), knife in hand, he would see how numerous branches could come entirely away and the remaining ones be shortened, and his cutting would be in ac- cord something as shown by the small cross marks in this figure. It would end vrith the top being reduced to about the extent of Figure 39. Then in setting the tree he would aim to favor the root in the best manner possible by about the following steps: Step one. Dig the hole both larger and deeper than the roots without any unnatural bend- ing would need. Step two. If the subsoil beneath seemed especially sterile he would throw out a foot or more of it, filling the space with fertile loam, otherwise he would turn over the subsoil, incorporating some old well decayed manure with it, treading all down somewhat. Step three. See that there was plenty of fine earth at the side of the hole, for use in placing every root in con- tact with such. Step four. In bringing the tree to the hole pruning away the bruised ends of any large roots, also cutting oft' any broken parts of roots with a sharp knife. Step five. Begin the planting by throwing in earth where the tree is to stand, and enough so that when the tree was brought in place its crown should be a little below the natural earth line. Step si.r. Placing the tree, and then with great care working the fine earth between the roots, observing to have the latter spread out naturally. In thus filling in soil great stress would be laid on having it packed firmly against the roots in order that these could the more readily absorb moisture, as well as for steadying the top. Indeed if the soil was light and friable at planting time he would find little danger of getting it too firmly packed. Such a course of planting would at its completion find the tree in the favorable condition, shown by that of Figure .39. And prvoided the handling of the tree previous to planting was well done and the planting was seasonably performed there would hardly be one chance in a hundred of the tree not succeeding. I commend these figures to the especial attention of all Inex- perienced tree planters. As regards tools for assisting the planting, the earth stick for working the soil between the roots, and the earth rammer, in Figure 40, are very useful. 64 POPULAR GARDENING. December, The extent of the pi-uning shown in Figure 39 is such as might apply to the average of orchard and shade trees as planted. Others than these will receive attention later. (To be continued.) Objections to Double Glazing. W. C. STRONG, WABAN. NEWTON HIGHLANDS P. 0„ MASS. In reply to inquiry No. .511 in respect to " Double Glazing " I have to say that, several years since, I made a somewhat extensive trial of it, with rather unsatisfactory results. The outer course of glass was like the ordinary method of glazing. The sash-hars were 3 inches in depth with a groove cut near the lower edge, down which groove the inner course of glass was slid from the upper flower before September 1st. as their place is already occupied by the Aster, a similar flower and one much easier grown, and more satisfactory at this season. First-class varieties that will come into flower as soon as the Asters are gone and continue up to the main crop are much ap- preciated by the trade and by the amateurs. THE TRIUMPH ASTER. end of the sash-bar, the panes being kept in place by butting against each other. The dead-air space between the outer and inner courses was about an inch and a half deep. We should expect that a house so protected could be heated with great economy. But the saving in this respect was less than I anticipated, and there were objections which seemed to outweigh any advantages. The deflection of the sun's rays was much more than doubled, by reason of the more acute angle at which they would infringe upon the inner glass. More than this, the frost and snow were very slow in melting from the outer glass. Again the inner course of glass would become more or less clouded with dust and thus cause obstruction of light. In these three ways the amount of sunlight was materially diminished. With a single thickness of glass, a con- siderable protection is obtained by the heavy coating of hoar frost that forms in severe nights, which serves as a good non-conduc- tor of heat, and also closes any air spaces. This frost quickly disappears as soon as the sun is up. But with double glass this coat does not form to any extent. In my opinion cloth curtains upon rollers, which can be drawn at night, are more desirable and cheaper than a second covering of glass. Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. A. H. FEWKES. NEWTON HIGHLANDS, MASS. In addition to the list of early flowering Chi'ysanthemums given by Mr. Thorpe in his article on page .3, October issue, I would mention the following, all of which are good and flower with us earlier than I.,a Vierge or Soeur Melaine: Lady Selbome ; pure white — Japanese. Madame C. Desgrange ; " " Mile. Lacroix ; " " M, Neville ; light rose pink— '* Blanc precoce ; creamy white— " Golden Fleece ; bright yellow, Pompon. Mile. EUse Dordun ; rose-pink and white. I quite agree with the writer in regard to the very early varieties, that is, those that The Triumph Aster: Said to be an Entirely New Class. This novelty in Asters, of which an en- graving appears herewith, is being offered for the first time by Messrs. Haage & Schmidt of Erfurt, Prussia. From the cat- alogue of this firm we take the following: It is undoubtedly the most beautiful of all dwarf Asters, not only with respect to the habit of the plants, liut also as regards the form and beauty of the flowers. It forms an entirely new class, reproducing itself true from seed, and attains a height of T to 8 inches. In its earlier stages of growth it re- sembles the dwarf Chrysan- themum Aster, but later on, as the large and beautifully shaped flowers appear, they soon bend on account of their weight a little at varying angles, but do not droop so as to impair their beauty. The annexed illustration was acu- rately engraved from a medi- um sized plant. The flowers of this Aster measure from 2>^ to .3 inches across, and are of the most faultless Paeony-form.all petals being beautifully incurved. The color is a pure scarlet, rich and brilliant, changing when in full bloom to a satiny deep scarlet. The flowers are borne in great abundance. This novelty while the plants were in full bloom attracted great attention of all visi- tors to our gardens, and was pronounced to be the most perfect and most charming of all dwarf Asters cultivated Tip to this day. Niootyl as an Insect Destroying Agency. For some time a great number of English growers of plants under glass have em- ployed nicotine vapor instead of tobacco smoke as a means of destroying insects under glass. Most of these, as we learn from our foreign exchanges, have discarded fumigation entirely in favor of the new system, the advantages of the latter over the former being sufficiently proved by one or two trials. As we understand it, the vapor is provided by simply heating tobacco juice in a specially made apparatus. Smce the method has been regularly used, it has been abundantly proved that while the vapor of tobacco juice Is a deadly insecticide it will not injure the tenderest flower, and that for plants in bloom it is much safer than tobacco smoke. Of several contrivances for applying the vapor, the one know in England as the Nicotyl Vaporiser, of which the accompany- ing is an illustration, is thus described: "The apparatus consists of an annular vertical chamber, into which is dropped a conical cylinder, open at the top and bottom. The introduction of this open-ended cylinder divides the interior of the chamber into two annular portions: a smaller one, next to the center flue, which for the purposes of this description we will call the super-heater, and an outer larger one, which we will call the boiler. Below the vertical opening in the center of the chamber, which we will hereafter designate the lamp chimney, we arrange a lamp burner, and a reservoir for containing the paraffin oil, by the means of which the apparatus is heated. The boiler being filled to a certain height with the Nicotyl to be vaporised, and a certain meas- ured quantity of oil poured into the reser- voir, the lamp is lighted and allowed to burn until the whole of the oil is consumed. " Successful Chrysanthemum Show held at Indianapolis, Ind. W. H. LAWRENCE, BRIOHTWOOD, IND. The first Chrysanthemum show given by the Society of Indiana Florists was certainly a thing of rare and exquisite beauty. The members were greatly surprised at what they did before the doors opened, and then they turned around and surprised the citizens of Indianapolis and hundreds of others from abroad. Each day the beauty of the exhibit was greatly enhanced by new and beautiful designs fresh from the green- houses being placed on exhibit in a manner decidedly attractive. Each afternoon and evening the elite of the city graced the hall with their presence. The eftect on entering the door leading to these tastily arranged beds of flowers was more like looking on a picture than a reality and the ideas presented were entirely new to nine-tenths of the visitors. The bank after bank of flowers, the elaborate decora- tions, brilliant lights, music, the great ever- green bell clinging from the central chan- delier, the monster pyramid of tropical plants, all surrounded with cut flowers, Orchids, Carnations, Chrysanthemums, and the choicests of Roses, made one feel as if they had, by some magical power, been transported to some tropical clime. The cut flower display was a flrst-class show within itself. Our home florists made a good showing. Then came Fred Doerner of Lafayette, with a car load; President Hill, Richmond; .J. A. Peterson, Cincinnati, Geo. W. Doswell, Ft. Wayne; M. Hunt, Terre Haute; .John G. Heinl, Terre Haute, Pres't. Carmody, Evansville; D. W. Cox, Craw- fordsville; Henry Graham, Terre Haute; Peter Henderson, New Jersey; Jno. Hen- derson, Flushing, L. I.; E. V. Hallock, Queens, N. Y.; J. Everet, Philadelphia; Seibrecht & Wadley, Robert Craig, Phila- delphia, and to all of them thanks ! Many thanks are sent through your columns. There were about 2,000 Chrysanthemums, of all varieties, shades and colors, in pots, arranged along the banks between the vari- o u s aisles. The mammoth stage was beatitifully or- namented with evergreens and flowers, and each night a picked or- chestra of fiO per- formers discoursed excellent music. During the week, until Saturday, the admission was 2a cents, and on the latter day the chil- dren filled the hall for one dime each. During the after- noon there was an auction of flowers, and such bidding on fiowers was never before seen in Indiana. On the following Sunday morning there were more Chrysanthemums in the front windows of Indianapolis residences than will again be seen for many a day. The re- ceipts at the door were sufficient to pay all the expenses of the exhibition and leave a handsome sum in the hands of the State treasurer. The writer was present from the commencement to the finish, and regrets that he cannot mention many things omitted that should receive unqualified praise. A NuMtyl Vaporiser. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART; DO THOU BUT THEVK."— MiuroN. Vol. III. J"^IiTTJ.A.ie"5r, 1888. No. 4. The New Year. Rich 1,'ifl of Ood ! A year of time ! What pomp of rise and shut of day; What hues whereiu our Northern clime Makes Autumn's drooping woodlands gay, What airs outbl()wn from ferny dells, And clover bloom and sweetbrier smells. What songs of brooks and birds, what fruits and flowers, Green woods and moonlit snows, will In their round be ours. —Whittier. It is dibtnal-lodking (faitU'iiinst thsit leaves the veranda baskets hanging out all winter and the lawn vases no better off. The land of some nui'serymeu is foul with weeds and of the worat kinds too, such as Quack Grass, Canada Thistles, etc. The weeds on this account become scattered far and wide through adhering roots or seeds to the stock, packing material, etc., that goes out from these nurseries. We shouldn't wonder if some day the public would And out which nurserymen are the great- est tratisgressors in this respect and that there would be a wholesome discrimination shown against the guilty ones. The Government Seed Bcreait. Commis- sioner of Agriculture Coleman in his last annual report with propriety sides in with the widely prevailing sentiment in favor of abolishing the Seed division of his department. He recom- mends that the testing and distributing of new seeds, plants, etc. be turned over to the respective state experiment stations. This suggestion is one which without doubt will in time be adopted and the sooner the better. A distributing station in each state for that state, instead of a central one for all states with their needs and adaptabilities so widely at variance, is obviously an improve- ment in the right way. A Word in Time. When the agents cime around this winter for your orders do not, if you have any faith in your ability to gi*ow some- thing better, invest in the Kieffer or LeConte Pear trees, however highly they may praise them. For the North, where the growing of good varieties is not difficult, the kinds named can hardly be rated as tit to eat; at the South they are better. What kinds to choose? For one dozen, ranging from the earliest to the latest, and reliable in almost all sections, we would say Bartlett, Summer Doyenne, Tyson, Angoulema, Belle Lucrative, Flemish Beaut.v, Howell, Louise Bonne. Sheldon, Anjou, Lawrence,Easter Beurre. Fractionai. Currency. Concerning the de- sirability of a re-issue of fractional currency or of silver certiiicates. for use in the mails, M. Lammar of Wisconsin remarks: I believe that if our Congressmen were for one year subject- ed to the vexations, loss and inconvenience of the present dirty, sticky, postage-stamp-e.x- change system to which the rural population is condemned we should get the much needed fractional paper denominations immediately. In cities and large \illages fractional parts of a dollar can be sent, but only by pajing tribute to the bank, express company or postmaster, but to the country there is nothing left but the stick-to- everything postage stamp. And I presume that people doing business in cities when they receive lumps of sticky stamps instead of crisp, conven- ient paper money are about as much annoyed as their country customers are— first the counting and recounting, and then the getting them ex- changed into something that >vill not cling to you. news. It is to the effect that the railroads em- bracing the Western Classification Committee, more than .50 in number, have granted the im- portant concession of classifying Nur^eru t^lnch boxed, or shipped in bor car.i, an thiru-ci.ass freight. Heretofore this same stock hivs been classified as flrst-class, and frequently at one and one-half and twice first-class i-ates. Still, as will be noticed, the relief is but partial, and the gen- tlemen of the committee feel that until the same classification is secured from all railroads their work is not done. They have some active meas- ures in view to which the attention of all nur- serymen is called, and further information will be given by addressing any member of the nurs- ery committee, as follows: S. M. Emery, Lake City, Minn., Chairman; J. B. Spaulding, Spring- field, 111.; V. H. Albaugh, Dayton, Ohio. The Christmas Rose. Mrs. M. D. Wellcome, of Cumberland Co., Maine, writes that her Christ- mas Rose, HeUehnnts niger, took a freak not to wait for the hoUdays, but to bloom in Septem- ber ! "How lovely this singular plant is both in foliage and flower. Its deep cut, glossy ever- green leaves are alone ornamental. Why is this desirable plant, so hardy as to bloom amid frost and snow, so little known ? Why do not florists catalogue it ? I find it only in two catalogues. Why is it called H. ntflcr— black— when it is pure white '/ There are many other varieties of differ- ent colors." To which questions we would answer that the fact of its being increased with some diiBculty, hence its price being higher than most plants of its general class, and the further fact that its culture, although not very difficult, is yet not the easiest, are against its popularity. The same reasons explain why the plants are not more generally kept for sale by the catalogue men. We do not know why it is called H. niger, indicating black, when the flowers are white, unless it be from its dark-colored root. The usual season of floweiing in this vicinity is March or April, but under some conditions the flowers appear in the fall, and if the plants are covered with glass coming true to name — at Christmas. Reduced Freights. The committee appointed at the last meeting of the American Nursery- men's Association to secure better freight classi- fication on nursery stock ofller some gratifying The Extremes of Gardening. BY L. H. BAILEY, AOEICCLTURAL COLLEGE, MICH, The tendency of fruit growing and vege- table gardening is to specialize, to grow one or two products upon a large scale and solely for the money there is in them. Fruits which endure rough handling, long ship- ments, which are large and showy, are taking the places of the better fruits. To grow and to pick their own fruits is becoming less and less common among suburban residents, even among the fanners themselves in some places. We are all depending too much upon the markets. We are losing the miscellan- eous gardens, which are made for all the good things which they contain. The person who depends solely upon the city markets cannot know or appreciate good fruit. The freshness of the product, in most vegetables and fruits, determines its dessert value to a large extent. This modern loss of the home garden is emphasizing the value of fruits which simply look well tipon the grocer's table, and is depreciating the refinements of horticultural pursuits and products. Quality must always suffer when dessert fruits are grown and handled by the wholesale. The products become simply so much bulk, so many pounds or nuarts of gross food, which the boarding-house mis- tress uses in abundance because they are cheap. The flavor and relish of the individ- ual varieties, the appreciation of delicacy of texture, the appetizing influence of the best and freshest products of the thriftiest gar- den, do not appear. The commercial ten- dency of the times is towards the money rather than the product. But the situation is by no means a hopeless one. There are still an abundance of people who dislike the market and who are willing to pay weU for the best,even though they can- not or will not grow it. Every town contains such people. They are ready to support a better hu-sbandry. They make it possible for the gardener who is ambitious to exer- cise his skill in the production of the very best produce to make a living. I rarely advise my students to pursue horticulture on a large scale. I urge them to grow less and to grow better. Superior fruits and vegetables command a remunerative price at nearly all times. Let the grower establish his line of customers and then supply their tables for the season: or, at least, supply the choicest kinds. 1 still believe in the tidy horse and wagon which carries the f rttit and vegetables directly to the door of the con- sumer while they are fresh and crisp. There is money in it. There is satisfaction to the grower who appreciates the best products. Or, if the grower does not care to raise a general line of fi'uits and vegetables, let him select two or three specialties, such as are not can-ied to perfection in extensive culture, and prosecute them to the utmost extent of his skill. I believe that the right man can even make money from true dessert Apples. The right man can do well with winter Pears. When it is once known among the best families that the grower is always to be relied upon and that he otters nothing in any way inferior, his success is assured. He may not attract attention from the magni- tude of his operations, but he ought to draw the full measure of comfort and happiness from life. He carries a sure business and enlarges it only upon a safe foundation. As a people, we cannot prosecute the best horticulture until we intensity our energies, and add to manual skill a mental apprecia- tion of all there is of the art. The gardener should grow as well as his garden. Horticultural Notes by Samuel Miller, Bluffton, Mo. The old year that has just passed has not been a favorable one for the horticulturist in most parts of the country. Let us look for- ward to the coming sea.son with hopes for better crops. In the meantime we must not forget the young trees under our care. Rabbits and Mice. During winter these two troublesome little animals must be kept off. A sure and simple remedy is given by a member of our State Horticul- tural Society, and not being patented, may be used by all. Take fine wire netting, such as is used for window screens, shear into strips 18 inches broad, then into lengths to surround the trees and lap over considerable. I^ay your piece of screen on a table, lay a round stick on the edge, {a piece of broom handle will do), roll your wire around it, let it slide, and prepare another, etc. These can be opened out and put on the tree, let- ting one end rest on the ground; it will clash around the tree, will expand with the 66 POPULAR GARDENING. January, growth of the trees for a few years, while all this time it will he proof against rab- bits and mice, the round-headed borer, and the flat-headed one so far as it reaches. Where this is not applied, the grass and weeds should be cleaned away from the trees to guard against the mice, and the trunks smeared with blood to keep off rabbits. If a deep snow falls where there was weeds left around the trees in the fall, it should be tramped down, when it will freeze solid and prevent mice from getting near the trees, for it is at such times that they do the most damage. In the East one winter for me the mice barked quite a number of trees that were six inches in diameter clear around for a couple inches in breadth, clear into the solid wood; they would have been kiUed if I had not knovsoi how to treat them. As it was all were saved, as I cared for them, and kept apace with the rest in growth, the only difference per- ceptible being that the girdled trees bore more fruit than the others. MissorRi Horticultural So- CIETT. At our State Society's an- nual winter meeting at Booneville. Mo. , recently, there was a large at- tendance and the display of fruit quite good for such a slim crop as we have had. Japan Persimmons. Among the new fruits, that attracted more than ordinary attention were some Japan Persimmons 10 inches in circumfer- ence, and weighing 12 oz, some\vith- out seeds and of excellent quality. Now we know that the big pictures representing this fruit is no lie; but won't say as much for the agent who seUs the tree for $1 per tree, telling his customers that they can grow them here. Three times have I tried them but they always winter kill. But they would make a splendid tub plant to put in the cellar at approach of winter. The friend in the South who kindly sent me the above named, writes that he had a tree three years old with sixty Persimmons on that he intended leaving to see how the cold weather and freezing would affect them. At that time they had the mercury down to 27 degrees. Here our coldest was U degrees, and not far from us zero. The Japan Plums are also likely to be- come a popular fruit in the South. I have eaten them sent here from California and know that they are the largest (Kelsey's I mean) Plums grown and of excellent quality. But our seasons are too short to ripen this variety here, although I understand that some of the varieties may come to maturity. Wild Goose and Marianna Plums. Of our native Plums the Wild Goose still holds the lead for profit, being the surest of all I have tried; but for my own eating I want something much better. The much lauded Mariannadoes not come up to the mark laid out for it. Instead of being earlier than Wild Goose it is later; instead of larger it is smaller, and if it is any better, it is so little that I don't see it. Then it was to be Curculio proof, which it is not. My tree, that might have ripened half a bushel of fruit if all had remained that set, did not ripen one; the Curculio stung every one, and they fell untimely, while two large Wild Goose trees not thirty yards from it bore immense crops, and ripened them, too. These are the facts as experienced here, and I give them as such. No doubt those who have a large stock of these trees on hand for sale will not like it, but those who had in- tended setting it out largely will perhaps thank me for it. A number of fruit men have written to me stating that my exper- ience may save them a thousand dollars. If any one wishes to try every new thing, it is all right, but my advice would be to go slow on such as have never been tried in the vicinity. As FOR Strawberries thei-e are several varieties that do well in Illinois a little over one hundred miles from here, but that are worthless with me. Sharplessand Alba- ny are not worth their room; can't keep the plants alive. Among the new ones Jessie pleases me the best of all. It will no doubt be the berry soon. It has long been my ambition to grow a Strawberry as large as Cumberland Triumph with the quality of Ladle's Pine. This, I fear is too good a thing to be obtained. The drought last summer killed all my Pines, also the seedlings, hence the end of that. ,Sl (in )i Flu hiiihdh^luil mill shaih Tius slii iih\, Ln\i n £hi Fhnm Caidi n tu thi Utt futnt iiit net Schoolyard Improvement: Associa- tions for the Work. That the American country schoolyard as a rule is in a sad state of neglect in matters of tree and other horticultural embellish- ments is a fact widely apparent. It seems strange indeed that the one yard of a school district, and associated with that which rep- resents the interests and aggregate wealth of an entire district, should so otten be the barest, meanest looking yard, for people of that district. This is the more remarkable, as we consider that it is of the place devoted to educating and cultivating the minds of children, so tender and open to receiving impressions good and bad. Were it the case that some great diffi- culty was in the way of adorning school- yards with trees, vines, shrubs, plants, la^vn, etc., not found when we provide these in our own grounds, the view might be different. But such is not to a serious extent true. The task of planting the yard is really a small one in most instances and not at all difficult to handle; the means in every school district are superabundant for the slight outlay required, and there should be enough willing hands for the work in men, women and children, to make it light indeed. The case is too generally merely one of " what is everybody's bu.siness is no- body's business," and the schoolyard re- mains unadorned. But a time has come in which there is a wide feeling that a change for the better should be vsTOUght in schoolgrounds. Nat- urally enough it is those who have a warm appreciation of horticulture that seem to be most exercised as to what should be done. The horticultural societies of the country, for example, are taking a hold of the subject in a way that promises well for good results. The question of ways and means for the work is one that presents itself at the outset to those who feel an interest here. To our mind a solution is to be found in asso- ciation work for the purpose, in a way similar to that upon which village im- provement associations are so successfully conducted in many places. We are satisfied that much if not all that should be done could in most cases be better done thus by the independent concerted action of the leading families of a school district than by State aid or otherwise. Where a live Improvement Association ex- ists at present in a district, the work very properly comes within its province, pro- vided there is no special society. But out- side of this we are in favor of seeing a Schoolyard Improvement Associa- tion in some form, in every school district oiitside of the large towns, to look after this and related school matters. It should easily secure the active support of every man and woman in the district, and there would be no difficulty in getting the children interested in a way to tell well for making and keeping up the improvements from year to year. To show what has been done in the instance of one country school dis- trict located in Erie County, N. Y. , by the joint action of the residents and their children very largely, we pre- sent the accompanying engraving of the school grounds of said district somewhat modified. In this case the work was wholly a work of love, with hardly anything like system about it, and yet so long as we were ac- quainted with it the school grove and garden were well kept up, and we presume are to this day. The garden features of this yard are sutficiently indicated by our engraving. The gi-ove of trees was a natural one, and which had been chosen originally for the shelter it afforded. The trees had been judiciously thinned so that while heavy gi'oups re- mained, to afford ample shelter, shade and beauty, yet the openings between sufficed to permit the growth of gi'ass for forming ex- cellent sward play-grounds. Here it may be added that this schoolyard is not cramped for room; it covers not far from an acre of groimd in which respect it stands in marked contrast with those small patches of schoolyard everywhere seen in the midst of cheap farm lands, and in which not enough land was originally reserved for giving the grass a chance to form a decent sward. But perhaps the most marked featui-e of this embellished schoolyard was the flower garden shown to the left fi-out of the build- ing. This was a fenced in plot, the fence of which was contributed by one resident of the district. The little area was devoted to walks and flower beds throughout. It was looked upon as the special domain of the girls, being on their side of the yard, but the boys were entitled to enter it, and they gladly did a share in keeping it tilled and in shape. The plants and shrubs set out were largely of the hardy class, and had been contributed from the surrounding gardens. Some annuals were raised from seed each year, and numerous Geraniums and similar plants found their way into the flower gar- den from the homes of the scholars. This little garden proved to be a school garden in more ways than one. For ex- ample: Along the shady side next to the fence was a favorite place in which to strike plant slips, and many were the lessons in simple propagation that were indirectly im- parted to scholars who met with little en- couragement in such pleasant work at their 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 67 homes. And it may be added that the same plot served as a nursery as well, from which many a poor child carried home in triumph at the end of the summer's term a little well-rooted slip that it could call its own. The same thing happened witli numerous otfsets of hardy plants at the spring garden making time every year as old plants were taken up, divided and reset. So that while the district as a whole gave to the garden it enjoyed the advantages of the part the gar- den played as a disseminator of plants into numerous gardens within its precincts in the course of years. This flower garden was far enough from the boys' recognized playground to tlie right of the school house that it rarely, if ever suffered from intrusion by far-Hying balls and the seeking for the same. We never saw the least disposition on the part of any boy to misuse his privilege of looking through the garden. On tlie whole the boys seemed as much interested in its beauty and completeness as the girls themselves. To all the little garden afforded a vast deal of recreation and happiness. It spread a halo of good influence over the scholars that was in value simply beyond estimation. In this matter of throwing light on .school yard improvement in our columns we in- vite the co-operation of the friends of the schools everywhere. Here and there throughout our country there must be many similar instances of improvements; these we would gladly illustrate and give place for having them described if our readers will favor us with the needed information. temperature again .'5.5 degrees, which of course at once quickly rose to the tempera- ture of the atmosphere at 7.5 degrees. I know that in many of the old European works it is often recommended to use water at the same temperature as the house, and if it can be done, certainly so much the bet- ter, but if you have not success in cultivat- ing Roses or anything else, you must look for some (jther cause than that hydrant or cistern water has l)een used on the plants. Syringing Roses with Hydrant Water. PETEB HENDERSON, .rERSEY CITY, N. .1. In response to the inquiry of A. A. H., of East Weymouth, Mass, as to whether the use of hydrant water in syringing and Rose forcing in winter is injurious, I would say it certainly is not, as the hundreds of acres of Roses grown under glass in the vicinity of New York and other large cities well proves; for I know of no one who grows to any extent but what either uses hydrant water or water from elevated tanks. The water in both cases would range from 40 to 50 degrees, and as syringing should never be done until the temperature of the Rose house is 7.5 degrees, the mean between the water at 45 and the temperature at 75 will be 60 almost instantly; and in 15 minutes the water syringed on the plants, wherever it has lodged on the soil or on the plants will have risen to the temperature of the house at 75 degrees; so there is not sufficient (hhc for injury to result from the low tempera- ture of the water. It is the long duration of extremes of temperature that does the mis- chief. You can take a Coleus or other tropical plant from one greenhouse to another, occupying a iew seconds of time, without injury when the temperature is at zero; but expose it to the temperature at zero for two or three minutes and it is cer- tain to be injured or killed outright. Of course, if it was practicable to iise water of the temperature of tlie house it might be slightly better to do so, but that could not he done except at a cost greater than the benefit would be. We have long ago proved that in Rose growing vising water at a low temperature had no i)ad results. I remem- ber in my early exinience, liefore we used hydrants or cisterns, that our water was drawn from a pond where the ice had to be broken to get at the water, and yet, even in that case, when the temperature was proba- bly as low as .35 degrees, I never saw injury result; for the same reason already given, that the water at 35 degrees was poured on the soil of the pots or on the benches in the greenhouse at 75 degrees, making the mean your readers who are familiar with the writ- ings of this celebrated English novelist may be able to give the exact passage. J have forgotten the name of the story. The Moon Flower and Other Ipomeas. R. \V. ll.\RCtAI>INE, FICLTON, DELAW ARE. In the October number Peter Henderson proves conclusively, contrary to the earlier statement made in his "Hand-book of Plants," published in 18.S1, that the Ipomea grandiflora or "Moon Flower" is entirely distinct from Ipomcii Bo/KjiV'o.r, or common white Evening Glory, which latter so many persons were Induced to plant last spring, through the representations of seedsmen, much to their disappointment. The true Moon Flower certainly scarcely seeds at all in this latitude, as I have grown it for ten years and have not seen as many seeds in that time. While the real Moon Flower is certainly the most striking representative of this class of summer climbers, there are two others not so well known which should be largely planted, as they produce a charming effect when planted with the white Moon Flower; these are Ipomea Learii and Ipomea palmata, or Ipomea Mexicana. The former is a true Evening Glory, opening its deep azure blue flowers at the same time as the white Moon Flower. The flowers are of the richest shade of blue imaginable. The latter variety, the Ipomea palmata, is a morning bloomer; it has beautiful palmate or fine figured leaves, its flowers are of a pleasing shade of rose color. This variety has the advantage over the others of having a tuberous root, which can be kept through the winter as easily as a Dahlia; this is especially desirable on this account, as none of these varieties are disposed to seed, but must be propagated from slips or cuttings. We have had growing on a wire fence this season, and flowering freely for the past two months or more, the three varieties intermixed. The two evening bloomers remain open till after the Ipomea palmata has opened its flowers in the morning, and during cool or cloudy days are open all day, presenting a sheet (.if blooms of different colors, the pure white of the Moon Flower heightening the beauty of the other varieties, the whole producing an effect strik - ingly beautiful. If any of your readers wish a beautiful screen or trellis of raiiid growing vines let them try the above three varieties, which can be purchased of most florists at a reasonable cost the approaching season. While on the subject of Moon Flowers it Ls worthy of note that the origin and history of the Ipomea grandillora does not seem to be known, even by those supposed to be best informed. A year or two ago there were several inquiries in the Gardeners' Monthly as to the botanical name and origin. The editm- of that journal called on Mr. Peter Henderson to answer these inquiries, which Mr. Hender.son did, but not satisfac- torily; thovigh he was, I believe, the first florist to offer it in this country, and might have been supposed to be well informed as to its origin. I would mention that in read- ing one of t'harles Reade's novels a year or two ago I met with a descriptive passage, which I (|Uote from memory and which may throw some light on this subject: "In the far off islands of the Indian Ocean where the Moon Flower unfolds," etc. Some of An Effective Sparrow Trap. Years ago that feathered Anarchist of Europe, the Sparrow, was induced to take up his home on our shores, and for a long time he received great consideration at our hands. But at length it was found that the experiment of bringing him over to rid our trees of insects was a most grievous mis- take. It was soon seen that at his best the sparrow had no special liking for insects, while it is now demonstrated by leading en- tomologists that the little fellow in certain ways actually promotes the increase of some of our most destructive insects. As an enemy to the fruit and grain grower, therefore, the English Sparrow proves to have no equal among our birds. Add to this the fact that the species multiplies with marvellous rapidity, and it is no wonder that In the older States like New York legisla- tive action has been taken looking to their reduction, by making it a misdemeanor to feed and shelter them. As the problem of reducing these pests is looming up seri- ously the means for trapping them, which we herewith illustrate and describe, will prove widely interesting. The idea comes from a correspondent in Germany, who said that this and similar traps are fast coming in use in that country for effecting the Sparrow's decrease. The trap consists of a box, of which fig- ure 1 shows a front view, and figure 3 a lengthwise sectional view. This box is made of light lumber and is set in the fav- orite haunts of the bird. There is a small hole at the end of the converging opening from the front, which hole is defined and armed by the sharp points of a number of straight pointed slats extending inward. By this opening the birds can easily enter the box, but to escape is almost impossible. Escape is rendered all the less liable by means of lighting the bottom of the trap with glass across the front on the floor. There are two rows of lights, one at the ex- treme front, the other some six inches back, for keeping the birds from jiressing against the outer glass to frighten away others by the discovery of their predicament. As it is, the cries and commotion of the captured birds attract their followers out- side, which crowd around in great num- bers, and work their way into the opening, not to get out again of their own will. A Fig. 1. Front Vieu'. Fiff. 2. Sectional View Lengthicise. AN EFFECTIVE SPARROW TRAP. small slide door at one side just back of the i inner line of glass affords all the means necessary tor removing the birds. The Postal Impkovement Association, re- ferred to hist month, reports that it is receiving a cordial welccimc from the people. And why should it not with such objects as these in view ? 1. To .secure retlucod postage on seeds, plant-s, bulbs and elons. 2. The reissue of fractional currency, for use In the malls. 3 Abolition of postal notes. i. Issue of money orders for $5.00, or less, for a fee of three cents. With W. P. Nixon of the Chicago Inter-Ocean as President, a man who has been quite successful 68 POPULAR GARDENING. January, in his previous postal reforms, the friends of the association may be assured of ^ood worls to be done. But the society calls for active aid from those who are to be benefited by the proposed reforms— and who is not? The kind of help wanted is : First, for every person interested to write a personal letter to both his Representative and Senators in Congress to support these measures. Sccxind, they must circulate petitions to Congress, agitate the matter in meetings and in the press. This is a work in which all should engage. Our readers who will apply at this ofBce will be furnished with petition blanks and forms of letters to Congressmen gratis. It is wisely designed to have the needed pressure come upon the congressman direct from their con- stituents, and we especially want the tens of thousands of readers of Popular Gardeniny and Fruit Orounngt'i speak out strong in the matter. The blanks are ready at this office; send for them, and get to work at once, the earlier the better. Third, money is needed for expenses. About $2,500 is required for printing, postage, clerk hire etc., to place the matter effectively before the parties interested. Some parties will sub- scribe directly to the Association's funds and it is hoped that all who can will lib- erally foUowthis example. The main reliance for funds is upon membership fees. It is hoped that all nursery- men, seedsmen and florists wiU help the cau.se by joining the Association and sending their membership fee of five dollars to the Secretary of theUnited States Postal Improve- ment Associa- tion, Springfield, Mass., for which a certificate will be issued to each. Every dollar will be properly ac- counted for. Let there be prompt attention to this work on the part of all interested persons from ocean to ocean, and such will be the pressure on Congress that relief should come speedily. into the open ground. They require a very rich, deep and rather heavy soil. They should be set out in rows two feet and a half apart, and the plants two feet apart in the rows. The ground should be frequently hoed, preventing the ap- pearance of weeds and grass. By the middle of June the heads wlU begin to form. If the weather is very warm the heads sometimes " button," or run to seed. By bending some of the large leaves over the young heads, to shade them from the sun, buttoning may be prevented. For a fall crop the seed should be sown about the 1st of May, and transplanted into the garden or field early in July, setting them the same dis- tance apart, and cultivating them in the same way as the spring crop. With moist, cool weather in September and October the Broccoli will head when planted on good soil. Besides the regular quantity of barnyard manure, an application, at the first hoeing, of three or four hundred pounds to the acre of Peruvian guano will be found a good investment in growing Broccoli for profit. There are only two varieties that are grown for market to any extent: White Cape.— This is the most popular kind of Broccoli, and looks very much nke Cauliflower, ■^' A HEAD OF WHITE CAPE BBOCCOLI. The Culture of Broccoli. Broccoli is a variety of the Cabbage species having, in the type, the young infloresence con- densed into a fleshy edible head, as shown in the left hand flgure above. In this respect it re- sembles the Cauliflower. It differs from that variety by heading earlier in the season, as also by the edible part being of a somewhat different texture from that of the fonner. One variety of Broccoli has the branching form of growth shown in the right hand figure. This is called the Asparagus or Sprouting Broc- coli. It is considerably esteemed in France and other European countries, but we are not aware of its being cultivated in this country. To gi"OW Broccoli successfully it is necessary to have rich soil of a good depth, in an open situa- tion, where the plants can have an abundance of sun and air to keep them sturdy. The greatest hindrance to its culture in America is its liability to suffer from early droughts, for a severe dry spell of three or four weeks duration may destroy the whole crop. When the crop does succeed it pays to those who raise it for market a handsome profit. In the New York market Quinn tells us that well-formed heads seldom bring less than from twelve to fifteen dollars per hundred, and always in brisk demand. The market is never over-stocked with Broccoli. For early summer use the seed of the Broccoli may be sown in the open ground about the 1st to the 10th of September, and pricked out into cold frames in the latter part of October. Before cold weather these frames should be covered with sash, and the young plants receive the same treatment as that recommended for Early Cab- bages. Early in April they may be transplanted the only difference being that the heads are a creamy instead of a pure white. Purple Cape differs only in color from the White Cape. In other respects it is very similar; and when the plants are strong and healthy they are of first quality, fully equal to any other sort. Notes on New Vegetables. BT A MASSACHUSETTS GROWER. A most important principle of Nature is reproduction: the producing of new varieties. For the last 10 or 1.5 years she has been un- usually prolific in giving to ns improved garden vegetables. For years I have made buying and testing many of the new novelties offered a specialty, thereby determining the merits they possess over the older kinds. Early Cabbages.— Emiy Wakefield. This, as first early, leads all others and is more widely grown than any other. Although an old variety it has been so increased in size from the original type that the new select strains are much pro- cured by market gardeners. Very reliable in heading and fine in quality. Henderson '.1 Summer. This is a larger Cabbage than the Wakefield, and has for some years ranked in the estimation of market gardeners as next to that variety in earliness, and as producing a much heavier crop. Very reliable to head and handling well in marketing. Quality good. Early Peerless. One of the latest introductions of the early varieties. It is a cross between Early Wakefield and the Improved Brunswick. Larger than Hendereon, earlier, sure to head, and remains longer without cracking than any other known variety. Quality unsurpassed by any other kind, remarkably sweet and tender. All Seire State. Originated in New York State; and was introduced a few years .since as the best late Potato in cultivation. This .yields immense crops of large white tubers, late in season, but very white and dry when cooked for the table, of excellent flavor. Crop the past season almost a total f ailui-e from rot. Dakota Bed. A very large sized late variety. In my trials it has not given me satisfaction. Although an immense producer, the tubers are apt to be watery and coarse in texture, and does not sell as readily as most others. The Kniffen System of Vineyard Management. H. P. VAN DU3EN, NEWARK, N. Y. Thousands of acres trained by this method are giring general satisfaction. The system is es- pecially adapted to the strong, heavy bearing, straight growers, and not as well to weak grow- ing sorts or such as are liable to drop or ripen their leaves early. Tying up the green wood during growth, as in the Fuller System, produces more and better wood, as a ^^ne grows much stronger thus than if checked by hanging down, as in the present system There is also more danger of the leaves ripening or dropping if the growth is cheeked. For that reason it would, as in the latter system, not be as good for the Delaware, Catawba or Lady, and just the thing for the Niagara or Con- cord. For the same reasons it would be better adapted to rich land than poor. Let it be added that checking the growth of rines which grow strong from any cause increases the quantity and quality of the fruit. In the Kniflen system of training but two wires are used. The first is 3 to 3 )^ feet above the ground (I consider the latter better), and the second 2 to 2H above it. The wires are thus sufllciently high to keep the fruit free from dirt, to provide a free circulation of air, and you can pass easily under them from row to row. Preparation. In preparing for a vineyard the land should be plowed as deeply as possible. A subsoil plow following and loosening from IB to 18 inches deep is still Ixjtter. A \ineyard once planted is planted for ages, and it pays to do it well. The roots should be set at least 12 inches in the ground, and in very light soil, or exposed places still deeper, with 3 or 4 inches of surface soil beneath them. A few wood ashes, or two or three handf uls of a phosphate containing plenty of potash, sprinkled in the bottom of each hole at planting before putting in the surface soil re- ferred to, will assist the young vines. Digging lor planting can largely be done with the plow. First Ye.ah. When the buds on the newly set vines ha\e started a few inches, usually at time of first hoeing, cut off all but the strongest, causing the rine to grow to a single cane. (Fig. 1.) After the leaves are off in the fall, cut close all except the strongest cane and cut that back to within three buds of the ground. Plow the ground towards the Wnes, plowing to a dead furrow. It is better not to plow at all than to turn but a single furrow against the vines. .yard or a vine has made a very strong growth, permitting of three well ripened fruiting later- als, (see Fig. 3), and you desire to take fruit from both wires the next season, you then select the two nearest the end for the lower wire, as be- fore. Select another lateral below or nearer the ground, for binding on upper wire to leave from 2 to 6 buds. The trimming in either case may be done in the fall after the loaves are oft, or dur- ing the winter or early sprini.i:, and should leave the vines as shown in 2 and 3 respectively. Third Year.— Two good laterals nearest the end of the 3-foot upright cane of the pre\ious ! in including in this article year having now been selected for fruiting on the lower wire; these should be cut back to from 4 to 7 buds each, and all other branches either on the arms or center vine be cut off. This will leave the vine looking Uke Figure 2 without the upper cane. In the case, however, of very strong vines, as referred to above, in which three bear- ing laterals are to be pro\nded, the appearance should be like figure 2 as it now is, namely, two laterals for the lower vine and one reaching to the upper, all of which should in general be treated alike. Vines of weaker growth haring but a single cane, of fair growth and well ripened wood, such can be left from three to four feet long and tied to the first wire for fruit. In all other cases of weaker growth cut vines back to which starts below the arms. Rub off all other new canes below them. At the end of the third season you will, with having three gi-ades of vines, as referred to, find the weaker ones ap- pearing about like Figure 2, the fairly vigorous like Mgure 4, and the stronger ones that were proviiled with a third lateral for the upper wire, like Figure li. Following the end of this season each grade should be trimmed as indicated by the cross lines, and this will leave them like Fig- ures 3, '} and 7 for fruiting the next year sepa- rately. It is well to cut a lateral or two back to one bud. as in Figure (». when you would like an arm next year. Then you are quite certain to get it. When buds are well started, during this and each succeeding year rub off all which start below the division in the vine below the wires. Alwa.vs t^ike the arms for lower wire from the short arm of the permanent vine. Later Years. At the end of the fourth and each succeeding year cut the arms which have carried the fruit back as close as possible, and leax'e arms for the succeeding year. If you do not find a good arm starting close to the center \1ne, take the first of the good laterals starting from the arm, cutting back to it. Its having had fruit on is no objection. Always select for fruit the well ripened, and other things being equal, take the shortest jointed wood of medium size. From H to ^ inches in diameter are better than larger. Avoid the extra large thrifty, long jointed canes. By examina- tion you will find that such have long buds. They are not as sure to start, and will not produce as much or as fine fruit. If you have no other ex- cept such large canes cut the laterals which you ai'e quite sure to find growing from it back to two buds, leaving in all about as many buds. Beyond the pruning thus suggested some sum- mer pruning, intelligently done, will increase both the quahty and quantity of the crop. To show when it should and should not be done would require more space than I feel warranted Cultivate a vineyard well dui-ing the early part of the season, or stiU better, plow it shallow until the middle of July, but not later than August 1st. The last plowing turn towards the vines and sow rye or oats, to be plowed under in spring. This will increase the fertilit.v of the soil and give the roots a fine win- ter protection. I/Caving a permanent branch on the vine below the wires, from which to take arms for the lower wire, is a modification of the Kniffen systen, cor- rects its most serious defect and ensures the same growth and amount of fruit upon the lower as upon the upper wire. In the original method 5'ou have but one straight vine from the ground to the upper wire and the lower laterals are taken directly from its side. The objection to THE KNIFFEN SYSTEM OF TRAINING BEARING VINES. 3 buds, the same as the first fall. This will in the end make a more choice and even vinejard. During the third summer the vines of weaker growth which were cut to 3 buds above ground should be handled the same as directed for second year for moderately thrifty vines. Vines which have laterals for fruit on the first wire only must be trained to have an arm pre- pared for the upi>er wire by selecting a new cane this is that the sap will always flow more freely to the end of the vine, making the strongest growth {and the largest i>art of the fruit) on the upper wire. I )ften with a large amount of growth on the upper wire there is not sufficient below from which to select go(td fruit arms. With this Iiermanent divisitin in the old wood the sap flows as freely in the lower as in the upper arm, which increases the cai)ncity of the vine. 70 POPULAR GARDENING. January, WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BV A. M. PFRDY, PALMYBA, S. T. WATER CRESS. This is a very palatable dish to a large number and should be more largely grown. We have grown it successfully along a running stream of water, the soil being of a loamy, mucky nature, and have also seen it growing on gravelly soil. Sow seeds in early spring. The plants can easily be ob- tained and set along such running streams, and these will rapidly spread and increase. WINTER BURNING OF STRAWBERRY BEDS. We are asked the question if we would burn over the beds in winter. By no means. It might be the ruination of them. The proper time is after they are through bearing, so that they make a strong new gro\\'th before winter sets in. And here we would say that if mulching material is not handy and plenty to cover the ground well after weeds are cleaned out in the fall, it is better to let weeds or grass grow among them from August or September as a protection through the winter and clean this out in the spring. Some growers sow buckwheat or oats at the North among the plants in August, and this being killed down by the frost gives the best of protection and mulch. wherever tried it has improved the health and appearance of bodies and limbs so far as applied at least 100 per cent. We began it thirty years ago in Northern Indiana and have followed it up nearly every year, and one needs but to see trees on which it has been applied and compare them with trees that have not been so treated to see the difference in health and appearance. THE CLINTON GRAPE AND OTHER WINTER SOKTS. We do hope that this old sort vrill not be entirely discarded. It is an "iron-clad " and will succeed where many others fail, and if allowed to remain on the vines until "dead ripe " it is certainly excellent, while its pro- ductiveness is marvelous, and, too, once planted and started to run over a tree it will take care of itself for a great many years. It is also a good keeper, and here we would say that among the best keepers are Isabella, Catawba, Roger's 1.5,Oneida, and Vergennes. The best plan for keeping Grapes is to wrap each bunch in paper and lay them away in shallow bo.xes in a room that will not get too warm and where mercury will not drop below 20 to 30 degrees. DO FRUITS DETERIORATE ? Practical men take both sides of this much mooted question. We remember while living in Indiana that the Wilson, grown by us for years and often renewed, would deteriorate, while plants of the same sort ordered from other States would produce well. It must, however, be remembered that as a rule new sorts are grown with great care and attention and often renewed, and seem to keep up their productiveness and size well. Again, we believe that some soils are peculiarly adapted to certain kinds of fruit, like the Strawberry, while others are not, and that on the first they may not deteriorate if renewed often and well fed, while on the other soil they soon run out. We have noticed the practical talk from J. M. Smith before the Pomological Society, in which he takes the ground that "the Wild Strawberry is no better nor worse than 2000 years ago, and that wild fruits do not deteriorate or become e.xtinct." Plant these wild fruits on soil different from what they are found growing on and let them run and we think they will soon run out, and even if cultivated they must be renewed. Again Mr. Smith says " all im- proved varieties, in order to succeed, should have the same conditions under which they originated." A variety that originates and succeeds well on a sandy soil may grow there years and years with proper attention and cultivation, while if planted on a rich virgin soil would be of little value, and I'iYc versa. We concur in Mr. S's closing remarks. WHITEWASHING TREES. Our old friend. Prof. Riley, does not ap- prove of this and says: " In reality only one of the four troublesome insects that infest shade trees can in any way be affected by the wash, and that is the Tussock Moth. So far as the whitewashing reaches a certain number of the cocoons will be loosened and exposed to the rains or rubbed off by the washing, and it may be possible that the lime will affect them, though there is no evidence that such is the case. But it is of no earthly use against the Bag Worm or the Elm-leat Beetle or the Web Worm." Now, while we have the highest respect for the Professor, we must say that we have whitewashed trees for years, with the most beneficial results. We have practiced on thousands of fruit trees, and whenever and ICE HOUSES FOB FRUIT. Every fruit grower should have an ice fruit house to keep many kinds of fruit in. Parties In Ulster County have told us that they have kept Concord Grapes till midwin- ter, getting six to eight and even ten cents per pound, while it sold when taken from the vines they would have brought but two to three cents per pound. The Rural World gives a very simple plan as follows: Those vrho have not good frost-proof cellars in which to store fruits and vegetables can easily and cheaply make a house that vrill answer the purpose admirably. A room built with double walls, having a two foot and a half space between, boarded up on the inside and out, the space closely tilled with cut straw, a double roof with a three-foot space, and also filled with straw, will keep quite an even temperature the year round. Such a room is all that is needed for an ice house, and now is the time to be thinking of making one for this purpose. The two ideas will work together well. Both the fruit and the ice need a low temperature for their preservation, and what provides it for one will for the other. Therefore, simply enclose more space, divide it into two parts, one for fruit and vegetables, the other for ice. A supply of ice will greatly aid in pre- serving the summer fruits, by simply putting a piece in the fruit room daily. To be able to keep fruits fresh for a long period is a source of profit, and to have a supply of ice during the hot weather is a luxury that is so cheaply obtained it is sim- ply astonishing any farmer does without it. The Farmers' Review adds to the above: Instead of the two and a half foot space filled in with cut straw an air space made air tight by the use of buOding paper and not more than twelve inches in width is both cheaper and better. The straw or other filling absorbs moisture and rots out the lumber. There is no better non-conductor than a dead air space. We have the promise of full directions for building a fruit ice house from a well known writer, which we hope soon to have for the columns of this paper. THE NEW SOUTH. For three years past we have spent con- siderable of our time in North Carolina and Virginia, and from observations and conver- sations are satisfied that what is needed is the proper system of cultivation and feeding to make a paradise of the South. The practice of cropping heavy every year, and on much of the land two crops in a sea- son, has "run out" a very large portion of the land, but the fact that it comes up so quickly by applying but a small quantity of manure or by seeding down with Grasses or Peas, etc., with some fertilizers applied when sown and this ploughed under, and the crops it produces after such treatment, is sufficient to prove that it has the " bottom " if only cultivated right. The animal and vegetable kingdom are the same in this respect, that to have good results from them the food must be suffi- cient. We have in mind now a farm in Virginia that has been badly run, and on which we were shovrn a piece of corn, a portion of which was producing a large crop, while on another portion the crop was light and poor. On inquiry we found that Sweet Potatoes had been grown the previous year and a small quantity of manure put under the ridges, on which the Potatoes were planted; on this ground grew the large stalks that produced so abundantly the following year. Near by were forty or fifty rows of Strawberries. Six or eight of these rows were very luxuriant, while the balance were poor enough. On the plat where the first were planted a small quantity of ma- nure had been scattered and plowed under; the other had none, hence the difference. A Red Raspberry plantation on the same farm showed like results with like treatment. We noticed on some market farms near Richmond, where manure had been applied, as fine truck and Strawberry plantations as one could find in any section, all showing that the soil is naturally good and will pro- duce if properly fed and cultivated. The land is largely a clay loam with a hard clay subsoil. What is needed on most farms that we saw is a good system of drainage, which we think might easily be done with the "mole" plow used at the West, or even a system of subsoiling— that is, running a subsoiler after the common plow, loosening up as deep as possible, but not throwing much subsoil to the surface. Tur- nips grow freely on most of the farms, and as seed is cheap and if sown so as to grow thickly and make a dense top, and this ploughed under, it will be found an excel- lent fertilizer. We question the propriety of using com- mercial manures so constantly and freely, as it draws from and gives nothing back, unless used for green crops to be ploughed under. It acts like some stimulants on the human system— stimulates for a short time, but reaction comes and leaves the body in a worse condition than before. What it needs is food that is lasting. The trouble (and therein will prove the failure) with many who go South, they plant too largely with too little preparation, and especially is this so with fi-uit growers. Better get one acre in good order and properly ploughed and marked and planted than five to ten acres without the proper preparation. Most farms that we saw were admirably adapted to stock raising, because of having so large a proportion of bottom land that gives grass the year round, and by keeping stock and using the manure on the upper land farms can easily be brought up. A large share of the land is covered with second-growth timber, which when cleaned produces good crops aud is easily kept up. And as for market, the great cities of the seaboard are so near the best prices can be obtained. Then again, most fruit crops there are more certain than in over four-fifths of the Northern States. In sections where we went we found a very large proportion of the inhabitants Northerners, and very social and hospital. i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 71 In closing this, however, we caution every- one from going South mth the expectation that success awaits them without using their brains and hands. Fruiting the Native Plums. D. B. WIER, LACON, lU.. Mr. Henry Lutts in your September issue writes of the Wild Goose Plum: " It is per- fectly hardy here, blossoms freely, but fails to fruit heavy through not fertilizing weO. I have it from good authority that by plant- ing other varieties of the same xprcics (near it) this defect may be rcmerlied." The italics and parentheses are mine. Mr. Lutts has been wrongly informed according to my '2.5 years' experience with this Plum. The Wild Goose belongs to the southern type or so called species of Native Plums known as the Chicka.saw (Frunus Chicasa) and is not fertilized or pollenized by other varieties of that species here, or at least by none of the many varieties I have tried it with, namely. Newman, (a typical variety of the race) Golden Beauty, Peach Leaf, etc. But its flowers in '2-i years have never failed of being fully fertilized by the pollen of the Miner in bloom quite near it. The well-known Miner shows a complete cross or hybrid between the Chickasaw and the Northern Wild Plum ( 7'. Americana,) and so far as tried here it is fertile with and fer- tilizes all the Native Plums that are infer- tile with their own pollen. The Miner is generally barren with its own pollen, but enormously productive when growing quite near the Wild Goose and (so far as tried) all other races, species and families. Therefore, when I am asked how to fruit the Native Plums abundantly my direct answer is: Plant them in rows running with the direction of the prevalent winds of Spring, with the trees not over six feet apart in the row and every third tree a Miner. The rows may be 1.5 to 20 feet apart- This places trees of all the varieties we wish to plant within six feet of a Miner. Proper fertilization is the one and oniy secret or necessity in fruiting the Native Plums. I have here trees of Miner and Wild Goose growing so that theii- branches inter- mingle that this past summer matured their twenty-third crop in succession with- out a failure, and also other trees that have done the same thing where both were top- grafted on the same tree. Therefore all barren, isolated Native Plum trees can be rendered fruitful by budding or grafting the right varieties into their uppermost branches. Which would be the right varieties? Time and a vast amount of experimenta- tion alone can determine. I have fruited thousands of varieties of them here, and the best rule I can give, and it is good enough for the present, is to plant with the Miner as above, also bud and graft with it. The Native Plums, such as we have now, are a fruit of the greatest value, especially for the Northwest, and are destined to be the parentage of the finest and most valuable of all our fruits. Therefore we should all endeavor to learn their absolute require- ments for fruiting. Last winter, at the request of Prof. C. V. Riley, Chief of the Entomological Division of the United States Department of Agri- culture, I prepared a paper giving my studies up to that time on " The Native Plums and the Plum Curculio." This paper shows that the Plum Curculio has practically nothing whatever to do with the very general barrenness of these Plums, and gives proofs and reasons in detail. The present season's observations have con- clusively proven my position in every par- ticular. The article is published in Bul- letin No. 14, and is now ready for free dis- tribution, and can be had by addressing the Department. Or what is very much better, I will mail the Bulletin from here on receipt of 2.5 cents, with my answer to Prof. Riley's criticisms on my paper, with proofs and new valuable facts. The facts now seem conclusively to show: 1. That the Curculio does not to any in- jurious extent breed in the Native Plums. 2. That eggs laid in these Plums do not prevent their reaching maturity. 3. That she lays her eggs in them in preference to most other (perhaps all) fruits. 4. Where these Plums are fruiting in great numbers in masses near together, they bear great regular crops and protect other fruits from the Plum Curculio, and practically exterminate that insect. Red Raspberry Culture for a Near City Market. Favorable soil and climate aside, the principal requisites for success in profitable Red Raspberry culture are a good market at no great distance, and a good supply of pickers in the neighborhood. It is a fruit that does not stand shipping well, being apt to become mushy , which renders it imsalable. Enough pickers should be near at hand to get the berries very promptly picked at ,1ust the right time. Especially is this true in a rainy season, for then often it is necessary to push the picking to the utmost; if picked when wet they spoil very quickly, and if left on the bushes a day too long in wet weather they get overripe and soft, making it next to impossible to get them put up in good shape. If pickers are rather scarce they are apt to get tired of picking and de- mand higher prices as the berries begin to run small, which is always the case in a dry season. We find it a good plan to pay only a part, say two-thirds of their earnings each day, with the understanding that faithful picking to the end of the season is necessary tor securing the balance. We make sickness and sometimes other good causes for quitting earlier an exception to this rule frequently. A gravelly soil inclining to sand is the best for this crop, although it can be grown successfully in most any soU, except a stiff clay, if it be thoroughly underdralned and worked. It is not necessary that the soil be very rich at the start, for manure can be applied to rather better advantage after the first season's growth. The plants should be set 1)^ to 3 feet apart in rows 5i< to 6 feet apart. Great care must be taken when setting the plants not to allow the roots to dry at all, as they are very easily injured. It is not advisable to plant on a drying, windy day, unless the roots are puddled or planted out of water. Root ex- posure in a wind for but ten minutes may work injury to cause the difference between success and failure. A good way of planting is to put the spade in the gi'ound 8 or 10 inches and move it back and forth so as to leave a hole 2 inches wide and as long as the width of the spade. A boy can follow with the plants, placing one in each hole, drawing the soil in with his foot and treading it firmly on each side of the plant with his heels. At the end of the first season the plants should be heavily mulched with manure, which will serve the double purpose of fertilizing the plants and smothering any weeds that escape the hoe. If well planted and cared for a light crop can be picked the following year. No pinching back should he done in the summer, as that causes the canes to send out laterals which do not ripen, but all canes should be cut back in winter or early spring from H to 18 inches, according to the strength of the canes and the amoimt of manure given them: the stronger the canes and the more manure used the less cutting back is necessary. After manuring in the fall the soil should be thrown up to the row on each side with the plow and in the spring this soil can be used to cover any weeds not smothered by the manure. By working and hoeing the ground away from the row during the com- ing summer it will get pretty well leveled down and will be ready for the annual fall mulch of manure and plowing. If any Blue Grass or other biennial weeds should have gotten a start an extra heavy mulch of ma^ nure on them will destroy them at much less expense than is possible with the hoe. If well cared for and kept clean a Red Raspberry plantation can be left for a num- ber of years. The only disadvantage of an old plantation is that Blue Grass is apt to take possession of it, and the annual plowing to the rows inclines to make the soil too high along the row. For marketing, this berry should invaria- bly be put in pint baskets, in which shape they will usually bring considerably more than enough to pay for all extra cost of the baskets. The crates should hold from 12 to .3li pints, to suit different customers, and must be made so the baskets will fit snugly to avoid chucking. The berries should be picked every day to command the highest prices, and should be placed in the retailer's hands immediately after picking if practical. A temporary packing shed should be erected near the middle of the patch for convenience in packing, keeping accounts of pickers, etc. Currant Culture for Market. E. MOBDE.V, NIAGARA FALLS SOrTH, ONTARIO. The largest crop of Currants may be looked for (m a deep, mellow clay loam. They do fairly well upon a great variety of soils, but a dry sand will not produce very large crops. There is very little dan- ger of making the ground too rich, or of ploughing it too deeply. They may be planted 4x4 or 4x5, and cultivated both ways. After the ground is carefully marked, I use a narrow one-horse plow, the landside of which coincides with the mark. By passing the plow two or three times along the furrow we secure sufficient depth. At each cross mark a two year cur- rant bush is dropped and a man passes along and plants them with great rapidity by using his feet. The furrow is readily filled in later on with the cultivator. A plantation of Currants or Raspberries should not be continued for more than 8 or 10 years. This is one of the secrets of suc- cess. How often we hear the amateur com- plaining of the miserable crops of Currants and Gooseberries from those old rows. He expends much labor and much manure and gets a small supply of small fruit. Plant anew, and dig up that mass of roots dead and dying. Black Currants are not gener- ally a success upou our soil. Of the Red Currants I have grown the Raby Castle, an English variety, for a dozen years with much satisfaction. It is a rapid grower and inclines to take the tree form. Its foliage resembles that of the Black Cur- rant, and it is held through the heat of summer until late in autumn. It therefore ripens its fruit perfectly and holds till late in the season, when we have a ready sale. This variety should succeed in the South. It is by far the most productive Currant that I know of. The fruit is not as sour as most others, and is not much larger than the Red Dutch. The tree form is very convenient in culti- vation and in picking. Such trees of course begin to fail in T or 8 years. Then we dig them out and rely on later plantings. I grow about a ton of Currants annually, and find them more reliable than any other fruit, and about as profitable. We must of course poison the worms. To do this we need Hellebore. The modem mixture sold is remarkable for its mildness. 72 POPULAR GARDENING. January, Winter Heaving.— Some Important Facts and Conclusions. D. S. MARVIN, WATERTOWN. N. T. Whoever desires to understand why one Grape-vine does poorly and fails to mature a crop of fi'uit while another apparently under similar conditions bears well and does well must study this topic. The matter can only be successfully studied after a winter of bare ground, when the frost has penetrated to a considerable depth. The explorer then going at it, pick and shovel in hand, and digging down to the bottom of the frozen soil, will find a stratified condition of the soil that will prove a wonder to him. The strata are composed of alternating layers of frozen soil and ice; the former may vary from one to several inches in thickness, the latter consist- ing of ice crystals from a quar- ter of an inch to an inch or more in thickness, or rather in length. This curious phenomena, I think, may be accounted for in this way: during the day there is more or less thawing; dur- ing the night freezing, but no thawing. The colder then the night the deeper the frozen soil; the warmer the day the more thawing and increase of soil water to make a thicker layer of ice. The ice crystals lay side by side, and while forming push up the frozen strata of earth immediately above them with such an amount of energy that the plant roots in the unfi'ozen soil below them are either pulled up or broken otf, if they refuse to yield to the forces above. With the roots thus broken an inferior growth must be the result. But you may say that the roots of all the vines will be broken alike. This does not follow, for the conditions ditfer. The soil is more compact under one vine than another, indeed, owing to the differences of the root systems of different varieties they are unequally acted upon. One vine spreads its roots out near the surfaee.and perhaps all its roots are elevated in the same strata and escape being broken; another's roots penetrate deeper, but not so deep but what they pull up a little, still another vine has fewer roots that pene- trate the .subsoil be- fore they branch out, and this one was ruined by its main roots get- ting cutoff. One plat of ground is porous and open, so that the soil water sinks as fast as it thaws, the ice layers too thin to sever the roots. Another plat has an impervious sub- soil two or three feet below the surface, and the water cannot sink, so there is a thicker strata of ice formed each succeeding cold night, until a non-freezing depth is attained. The lessons to be gleaned from a study of the facts are, that more attention is needed to the root systems of the different species and their several hybrids and varieties. In my experience and upon my grounds the Delaware has proven least affected by heav- ing, and the Salem the most so. But un- doubtedly the main remedy lies through in- fluencing and selecting for soil conditions. As will be observed, a porous soil is a Warfiekrs No. 2 Strawberry. THE IDAHO PEAR. favorable one, and a soil underlaid by hard pan an unfavorable one, but even an un- propitious soil may be turned into a favor- able one by underdraining and subsoiling. A survey of the facts also explains why a hill side is good for vineyards, the water runs off and there is little heaving. In reality it is never safe to select a level, damp, retentive soil for the vine, for of all plants it is most affected by unfavorable soil conditions. The facts here given are not taken at second hand from anybody's conjectures. I had often wondered at the weak growth of some of my vines, and suspecting the reasons I went at it last spring, pick and shovel in hand, and I found ample evidence to con- firm the explanations above given. I was so much interested in the study and explana- tion of the facts that I have written them out for the consideration of other vineyardists. to be known to the tree is that it bears too heavily. It has endured 33° below zero, and is said to flourish better during the hot, dry summers of Idaho than any other variety. Mr. Evans informs iis that the average size of the Pears as they grow on the tree without thinning is from 10 to 1.5 ounces. He sent 4 specimens to the Burlington Co. (N. J.) Fair that weighed 19, 19K, 21 and 2.3 ounces. They were tested by a special com- mittee and took the silver medal, the highest prize of the Society. We have flattering testimonials from Pres. Berck- mans, Pres. Earle, Pres. Lyons, Dr. Hoskins, Pres. Barry, Wm. Parry, Prof. Budd, and others. No effort has as yet been made to boom this Pear, as there will be no trees for sale for another year or two. The large size, peculiar shape and fine quali- ties seems to be making it pop- ular at first sight. Warfield's No. 2 Straw- berry. This is a pistillate va- riety which originated on the grounds of B. C. Warfield, Marion Co., 111., in 1883. In its brief time it has attained a reputation so excellent throughout its own locality,and even further, that it would seem well entitled to attention from fruit growers generally. Mr. Warfield informs us that from the first seventeen plants, and which were planted out in 1883, he the next season picked one quart of fruit every second day, they occupying a space 3 feet wide by 33-2 feet long. The plant is a pistillate of vigorous growth, with penetrating roots to resist drought. Its time of blossoms, as well as of fruit, is with Crescent. Plants set in June had on a sin- gle stool the following season 105 blossoms and berries. It is said to equal Wilson as a shipper, having a tough sldn, and is superior to that variety In other respects, and superior to Crescent in every quality. It is stated that berries were sold in Chicago, May 31st, for from *3..50 to .*3.7.5 per case after being held until the second day after arrival. The SiBLET Squash. This new variety is offered by Hiram Sibley & Co. as a grand surprise to those persons who hitlierto have held the belief that to eclipse the Hubbard was an impossibility. The form is shown in the annexed engrav- ing and is remarkable in having the stem at the swelled end. The shell is described as being of a pale green color, very hard, thin Candidates for Public Favor. The Idaho Peak. A specimen of this remarkable Pear received at this office in fair shape as late as Novem- ber 14 sufficiently testifies to its keep- ing qualities. It was sent from the grounds of Jno. H. Evans, of Idaho. The fi'uit is large to very large, of the form shown in our engraving, and presents the singular character of being seedless. The fiesh is tender, ji nearly white, vinous, with a flavor, ^^ If not so sweet as Bartlett, it is at ^ least rich and agreeable. The history of the Pear in brief is this; About 20 years ago a Mrs. Mulky, of Idaho, saved seeds from a fine, large, red cheeked Pear, resembling the Bartlett. One seed grew. It had such fine, thrifty foliage and clean, healthy wood, that it was determined to not bud it. The next spring it was trans- planted in the orchard and in 4 years from the seed bore fruit, and has continued in bearing ever since. The only objection said THE SIBLEY SQUASH. and smooth. The flesh is said to be solid, of a vivid, orange color, dry, and really won- derful for fineness of grain and the rich and delicate flavor peculiarly its ovm. The weight ranges from eight to eleven pounds, though the eight-pound specimens are com- paratively few in number. The vine ripens its fruit simultaneously with the Hubbard, i888. POPULAR GARDENING. li and so evenly that nearly the whole crop may be gathered at one picking. The qual- ity Is considerably improved by being housed a few weeks. As a keeper it is said to excel all others; remaining, in a good, dry cellar, sound until March — constantly improving in flavor and quality to the very last. Mulching Strawberries with Leaves. E. II. Cl'SIIMAN. EUCLID, OHIO. I have tried many kinds of mulch for the Strawberry, and find Maple leaves one of the best. For years I have put on the leaves of the same year's growth, and unless brush, boards or some other coarse material was placed on them they blew off. This is the common draw- back to their use. To obviate the difficulty re- ferred to I have the leaves raked up in piles in the woods during open weather in the winter, and allow them to stand through the following summer to partially decay. In this condition they make a perfect mulch applied in the fall. They stay where placed. There are no weed seeds to grow or come up through the follow- ing summer. The ground is kept moist beneath the mulch, and by the time the fruit is gathered the leaves are pretty well broken lip and the earth between the rows can be stirred without miich difficulty. In this way a Maple orchard can be made a valuable adjunct to Strawberry culture. 1 strongly suspect there is a mistake about the best time to mulch. I have until last year followed the oft repeated direc- tion. "Put on after the first hard freeze." Last season as early as the first of October the mulch was put ou between thickly matted rows, and even to pretty well lap over the plants, and they did well. This year have put it on hill rows the last of October, with ju.st a little breathing place for each plant. Plants not covered are all brown, while those mulched have green leaves. The earth seems to be much more mellow where they are covered early. find that land for Strawberries will stand to be well manured with good rotten manure and unleached wood ashes, I have as yet never found their equal on my land. They not only increase the yield but they seem to have a brighter color. The Wilson, for in- stance, is rather dark in color, but on land where I have used wood ashes and lime (from the lime kiln) and secured good foli- age my berries are much brighter, and in our market will sell from .50 to 7.5 cents more per bushel. The quality may be no better, but theii' appearance is. Now with the land plowed in the fall, haul on say about 30 loads of good rotten manure to the acre. I mean by well rotten manure, Comparative Practical Test of Fertilizers. Below is a report of the e.\periment field planted by Stow (Mass.) Orange the past season. The fertihzei-s employed were gencrou.'^lv contributed. The grange had a Held meeting at the time of planting: .iiicl'trircl the dif- ferent kinds of implements; also a field day of hexing and harvesting. The crop was sold, which will make a neat little sum tor the treasury. FERTILIZER. POTATOES. CORN i i ■s d 1. § s i i & i ! a a s ■§ 3 P 1 1 u K 8 1 Buffalo 30 80 30 SO 30 30 30 SO 30 30 30 30 30 SO 30 m tl.OO 1.00 170 ao9 169 191 65 228 161 17T 153 183 IM 163 176 48 93 106 227 164 10 no 136 109 124 37 164 93 119 78 130 90 105 r?3 29 54 62 90 73 23 41 59 33 47 24 54 48 49 63 46 56 47 43 10 14 14 109 20 36 19 14 27 20 4 10 20 9 12 8 13 11 11 9 24 30 28 71 11 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 16 15 15 15 IS 15 50c 50c 64 49 50 59 32 62 47 42 42 47 55 40 37 68 83 S88.00 38 00 ? Bradley's n Darling's S8 00 4 11 Dole's Economic Wapes' Potato 25.00 50 00 Clark's Bay State 36 00 s Cumberland 40 00 hy and iK)litical economy; of zoolog.v, ornitholog.v and entomology. Two of the brightest of earth's women have become famous in the cognate study of entomology through their love of horticulture. One in the United States is Miss Emily A. Smith, and the other, in England, is Miss (.>merod. Ever.\" lady who e.xercises the love of the beau- tiful in the study of horticulture in any of the branches will I'cccive the kindly love of all who have the happiness to know her. Her intluence will be wider spread than she may think. The beautiful garden will, perhaps, inspire some pa.sser-b.v to institute, perha[is in some humble home, the lesson she has learned in passing. The grinding man who witnesses the pleasure that happy children take in playing on the lawn, amtmg the shrubs and tlowers, may lie tempted to place his children upon a higher plane by as- sisting them in preparing something of the kind for themselves. The tired wife will thus get added en.ioyment. The girls will not grow up ho.vdenish, the boys will come to love home and leave the dance-house and the corner grocery for the higher and quieter home pleasures. There will be unity and love, and heli>ful assistance one to another. They will grow up wiser and better, and happier men and women. Hence we shall see that woman in horticulture may become a far-reaching integer, and one of the most power- ful, in the future of a country whose young growth so far has been the wonder of the world. Promising Wild Fruits. [Bn A. S. Fuller and others before tlie American Poino- logical Society.^ Mr. Fuller said in substance that for more than 'M) years immigrants from Eur- ope brought the varieties of Grapes with which they were acquainted, not doubting but that they would succeed. For ages our native species were neglected, and it is now but barely .50 years since we have awakened to the fact that the latter possesses merits worthy of our attention. We no longer .seek foreign Grapes. It is true there is yet room for improvement in our native Grapes, but they have passed that stage which we call merely "promising." Our best sorts come from wild stock and any trace of foreign blood is looked upon with distrust. The Raspberry was cited as another instance of a valuable fruit in which the native kinds are driving all foreign sorts from the market. Time was when none of the natives were considered worthy of a place in our catalogues; they were not thought good enough for the table. Now they are the hardiest and most reliable sorts we have. In 18.52 this society cat^ilogued only four Itasptjeriies, all foreign. No native red sort had been heard of. In l»(i2 only seven were on the list, all foreign. As late as 1S6H no one suggested a native red berry; but in IIW.5 out of 30 varieties '-■atalogued 2.5 were native. It is now evident that we have no further use for foreign Rasp- beiTies, and even those of our natives contain- ing foreign blood are apt to be regarded as deli- cate and of doubtful value. Then as to.Strawberries, we made no progress until we began to build on the wild stfick. Also the Blackberry: our nati\'e Blackberries seem to be turned out in a very perfect state and we have only to select the best varieties from the woods, and yet there is rf)om for improvement. All this warrants further trial by selection and the crossing ot other native fruits. Speaking of the June-borry, or Service-berry, {Amdanchicr Vaiiadeiisii'), he said the typical form of the plant is a tjill tree :J0 or 40 feet high, and from that all the way down to the small shrubs which now produce our t)est fruit. He suggested that this species be hybridized with the Apple or other tree fruits. This does not seem impossible: somebody must tr.v it, that's all. The Amelanchier belongs to the Apple family, and the blossoms are similar. The Missouri Currant is another wild fruit which should be cultivated and improved. Ast do is to cut it back well and see that the roots don't get dry. Ber- ries half an inch in diameter are produced by selecting the best plants, and good culture might secure an improved form of this one of the most popular and best of our wild fruits. The Persimmon, especially the larger kinds, should be placed very near, if not at the very head of the list. There are many excellent wild varieties. Persons who are at all familiar with it will become pleased with the taste. The re- cent Japanese varieties are far superior to the European Plum in flavor, but they are not hardy north of Washington. Northern pomologists should cross or hybridize these with our native sorts and seek to combine the hardiness of the latter with the deUcate quality and larger size of the Asiatic species. The wild Plum is well on the way to become one of the most valuable native fruits. Several varieties now in cultivation give hope of some- thing still better in the future. We now culti- \ate only the foreign Cherry and its seedlings; but we have sevei'al native sorts. Two of these have inflorescense similar to the foreign Cher- ries, making it possible to cross the two. The dwarf is the most promising, but too poor in flavor in its wild state to warrant cultivation. The Paw-paw for large size, productiveness and luxuriant growth of tree is likely to become one of our most valuable fruits. The flavor of the wild species should be improved. There are se\eral kinds affording chance for experiment; but as they do not bear early it will require some time to reach definite results. Mr. Barry inquired whether the improved American Raspberries did not contain some for- eign blood. Mr. Fuller had been unable to find any in them. President Berckmans spoke high- ly ot the Cuthbert. " Its advent in the South marked a new era in Raspberry growing there," said he. Some member having alluded to the difficulty of transplanting certain wild fruits, Mr. Puller replied: " I have yet to hear of a sin- gle plant that cannot be transplanted success- fully unless it is the Tuckahoe of the South. The trouble is lack of skill in the operation." Mr. Barry spoke of the Raspberry improve- ment in this country. He was glad to know that we had arrived at that state when the pres- ence of any foreign blood could at once be de- tected. Up to the introduction of the Cuthbert it was always necessary to have a foreign vari- ety. The Cuthbert was a great improvement, but for flavor he preferred Brinckle's Orange to all others. But the man who introduced the Cuthbert Raspberry he regarded as a public ben- efactor, though in quality it is not equal to some of our foreign sorts. Dr. Hoskins doubted that nearly all our Rasp- berries were true native seedlings. He thought seeds of foreign sorts might have been planted by birds, and that varieties like the Cuthbert may have originated in that way. But Mr. Fuller said it was im]>ossible to deceive skilled bf)tanists in that way; whatever the ordinar.v eye and taste might dictate, the botanist could always detect the slightest trace of foreign blood. A Talk About Pistillate or Imperfect Flowering Strawberries. [Digcu^sioii be/ore the Ohio State Horticultural So- ciety.] Secretary Campbell. — It seems to me that in this age of Strawberry improvement we ought to require that a new variety shall have a perfect blossom (stamens and pistils both present). If it is sufficiently produc- tive, it seems to me a very great advantage. Mr. Palmer.— It is very easy to plant Straw- ben-ies so that the pistillate (imperfect) varieties can he fertilized. I plant alternate rows, and the nearer they are, the better. In unfavorable seasons, when we have late frosts, I have dis- covered that the pistillate varieties will stand more freezing than the staminate (iiollen bear- ing). I remember one season when I had Sliarp- less that occupied a row all the way across the patch, about ten r transplant and also difficult to start from seed; they germinate very slowly. By stratification of the seeds and allowing them to remain a year one can have fair success. Mr. Garfield spoke of Ferns as delightful ac- companiments to the yard. They can be trans- planted easily; would place them in the fore- ground of a clump of shrubbery instead of near the house, so as to be in view from the windows. The following points about transplanting were brought out. The best trees are those well grown in the nureery. In getting trees from the forest or in truth in moving large trees from anywhere it is well to prepare a year before hand by cutting a trench about the tree and flUing it with light- Utter; then by careful removal the check v\ill be very sbght. Tramping the earth about the roots was mentioned as important. The character of the day was more important than the season. The Summer Propagation of Roses. (Continued froyii page 54.) Best Varieties. The prime requisites for a good bedding Rose are: 1st, color, form, size, texture of bloom. 2d, vigor of growth and healthy leafage. 3d, freedom and con- tinuity of bloom. The best twenty-flve ever- blooming Roses for bedding purposes meas- ured by the above standard are: La France, Perle des Jai'dins, Catharine Mermet, Marie Guillott, Sou. de la Malmaison, Marie Van Houtte, Mme. Gabriel Drevet, The Bride, Sou. d'un Ami, Countess de la Barth (or Duchess de Brabant i, Chas. Rovolli, Mme. Angele Jacquier, Mme. Welche, I..a Princess Vera, Sombreul, Gloire d'Dijon, Comtess of Pembroke, IjCtty Coles, Pierre Guillott, Papa Gontier, Autoine Ferdier, Simset, Mme. Jos. Schwartz, Comtess de Barba- tannes, Hermosa. Among the following sorts some possess charms unsurpassed by our first list, and we would not like to see them discarded for little faults of con- stitution or habit; they are; Coquette de Lyon, Mar. Robert, Mme. Watteville, Mile. F. Kruger, Mme. Cusin, Devonlensis, Mme. Dubroca, Edith Gifford, Camoens, Grace Darling, Comtess Riza du Pare, EtoUe de Lyon, Mme. Jean Sisley,Queen's Scarlet or Agrlppina, Mme. Lombard, Jeanne Abel, Maurice Kuppenheim, Henri Meynadier, Clement Nabbimnand, Mme. Falcot. A group of pets of singular beauty, but of not strong constitution, but well worth extra care: Ye Primrose Dame, Valle Chanunmix, Sou. Theresc Level, Mme. Capucine, La Nuance, Prin- cess of Wales, Katie Metchersky, Nathalie Im- bert, Viscountess de Cazes, Comtesse de NadiaUac. Of later introductiims to the ever-blooming classes the following, I think, will rank among our standard sorts: Countess Fiigneuse, a beau- 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 8i titiil yellmv of dflioious scent, Viscountess Folke- stone, almost ranking- with La France. Hiisannc Blanchet, an o.\quisi to shell pink of splendid foi-m, Heine Nathalie de Serbie, a distinct-habited tea witli finely formed tlesh-i>ink flowers; Meteor, a hybrid tea of bright crimson color; Mme. Per- reau, a bright silvery pink seedlinj? of the well known Sou. d'un Ami; Mme. A. Etienne. an aji- parently dwarf-haliitcd Catharine Mermet with charming buds of light pink; I.uciole, a highly colored peachy crimson, charming in its tints and deeply scented— the premier Rose of this year. We have gone through the list of best Koses, now let us revei-se the matter and ask, why grow Mine. Bravy, Mme. L. Fei-rier, Mme. Denis, Lady Warrender, Mme. Villermoz, CorneUa Cook, Bella, Mile. Rachel, Sou v. Geo. Sand, Tri'd Milan, when The Bride, Marie GuiUott and Sorabreul combine more good qualities than are to be found in the whole list of white varieties mentioned. Among pink varieties, commencing with Adam, Camille Raoux, Margaierite Raraet, Flavian Bu- dillian. Rose Nabbonnand, Bougereand Le Flori- fere, all the good qualities of these varieties may be found in C. Mermet, La France or Sou. d'liu Ami. Among red varieties, the best known are Duchess of Edinburgh, M. Chaband St. Mandrier, Alph. Karr, Mme. Brest, Mme. Vetry, Aline Sis- ley, Gen. De Tartas, Regulus, Sou. G. St. Piei-re, Dr. Lisnard and Papa Gontier; we think that Duchess of Edinburgh and Papa Gontier might be profitably grown to the e.xclusion of the other red varieties mentioned. Types in Koses exist as definitely as do facial expressions, color of hair, and other characteris- tics in the human races; let us select the best and most prfmounced in the different years. Type 1. The Duchess de Brabant section we would most certainly retain the recognized head of the class; also Mme. Jos. Schwartz, Chas. Ro- voUi and Riza du Pare, but Sou. Mme. Fernet, Marie d'Orleans, and Sou. Rosieriste, Rambeaux, Mme. F. Bra.ssac, Duchess Magenta, L'Elegant, Marguerite Fenelon or Mme. Remond are almost identical with the type in color, while lacking good qualities found in the three named. Type 2. Represented by Coquette de Lyon, and" is followed by Perfection, Monplaisir, Mme. Devacourt, Sulphureaux, Mile. Marie Arnaud and Mme. Cecil Berthod; Mr. Craig designated Coquette de Lyon as the yellow Hermosa, and if we retained that we should hardly miss the others. Type 3. La Pactole, Narcisse, Exadolphe, Em- press Marie of Russia, Mme. C. Kuster and Canari. Undoudtedly Mme. Kuster leads, producing larger l)uds, and of stronger constitution. Type 4. Commences with the old Cels tea, and is followed by Aurora, Mme. Derroches, Mrae. Damazian, La Sylphide, Mme. Augele Jacquier, White Tea, Mme. St. Joseph, Louise de la Rive Mme. Bravy and others. Louise de la Kive and Mme. Angele Jacquier would he almo.st unani- mously selected to refiresent the type character- ized by slender growth and much leafage. Type ii. Abbe Rousseau, Alph. Mortleman, La Tulipe. Marie Ducher, Belle Macconnaise, Coun- tess de Caserta, Eugene Meynadier, Marechal Bugeaud, Mme. Noirey, Pauline La Bonte. We would willingly discard all the above if we might retain Mme. Welche and Mrae. WatteviUe, which combine all the best colors represented in the list, without the disagreeable touches of dull violet or purple which mar all the others in greater or less degree. Type 6. This is notable, for it contains Jean Pernet, Perlo de Lyon, Perle des Jardins, Ed- mond Gautier, Sunset, Miss Edith Gilford, and last, Elizabeth Gramraont, but with even so regal a list, it must be admitted that Perle des Jardins and Sunset are the best varieties. {To be com-hKtciJ nr.rt i>inut}i.) FROM VARIOUS SOURCES. The Purslane Worm. Farmei-s and gardeners frecpiently have occiision t(j rejoice in the in- crease of a certain class of insects, called para- sites, that prey upon and destroy other insects which feed upon the vegetable kingdom, but they very rarely have reason to welcome vegetable eating insects. According to an article in Science, however, by Pi-of . Snow of Kansas, that State and others ad,ioining are invaded by a caterpillar that feeds upon the Purslane weed. There are few gardeners who have not had severe struggles to suppress Pui-slanc. During the past sesvson the Purslane Worm has invaded Kansas in large numbers, exciting a good deal of fear in those who are in the habit of regarding all worms as enemies of the tillers of the soil. They have been known previously in Colorado, New Mex- ico, Arizona and Western Texas, but had never before appeared in noticeable numbers in Kan- sas. Prof. Snow was unable to induce them to eat anything but Purslane. He first made their acquaintance in ISR4, at Deming, New Mexico, wheie they were attracted by the lamps at the station hotel. It is (luestionable whether they will become acclimated in a moister and colder climate than their original habitat. If it will flourish here, and no doubt remains as to its hab- its, we wish they would send them on here as speedily as possible, for they will make the work of tilling our gardens much lighter. This insect has extended east very slowly, and it was not until the building of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad resulted in the western exten- sion of the Purslane that they gradually made their way eastward to Kansas. Its scientific name is Oipidryas Gloveri, and it was described and named by A. R. Grote in 1868. It is just pos- sible that it may feed upon the Grape-vine. We should want to be certain that it would eat no useful plant before welcoming its introduction. Vines at Newport. Very few people fully ap- lireciate how much the beautiful houses of New- port are indebted to the vines and creepers with which they are surroimded. But for these, some of the most attractive places would be barren in appearance if not positively ugly. Some are comparatively new varieties, introduced from foreign lands, while others are natives of the soil where they grow. Take, for instance, the Vir- ginia creeper and the Wistaria, so abundant on every hand, how completely they change many a rough, uncouth fence or outbuilding into a thing of beauty, and add to the mansion itself artistic wealth of no small value. The common creeper, such as covei^ the debris of old castles, and makes them fresh and charming even while in ruins, and the Japanese Ivy, a recent importa- tion, rich in leaf and color, everywhere appear. The combination of these climbers give a striking \ariety in shades of green and in forms of foliage, the Wistaria hanging in festoons, the Virginia creeper in sprays, and the Ivies, especially the Japanese, presenting the appearance of a wall, variegated as by a master's hand; then add the Trumpet Honeysuckle, with its extended arms, bearing beautiful flowers of yellow and gold, and we have a picture not easily surpassed. And so we have the Blrthwort, or Dutchman's Pipe, with its broail leaf of dark green, and the Clem- atis, or Virgin's Bower, for training on posts, on the lawn, and in the flower garden,or on pillars along the veranda; and as different varieties bear flowers of many colors, there is Uttle danger of dull uniformity.— Newport News. Forcing Asparagus in Winter. Asparagus in midwinter brings a fancy price in the large markets. Strong roots of three or four years' growth that have never been cut yield the most vigorous heads with the least e.xpenditure in artificial heat. Make a bed of stable manure and leaves three feet high at the back and nearly as much in front, and as soon as it shows a steady t<>mperature of 80 degrees, cover the bed with soil, in which place the roots close together and co\er with light, rich soil to the depth desired for the amount of white in the growth. To keep up a succession, make a fresh bed every three or four weeks. Such beds in a well-lighted place, where a temperature of 60 degrees to 70 degrees or more is maintained, will produce a rapid growth of tender, crisp Asparagus that will prove a paying novelty.— Farm and Home. Apples True From Seed. A Wisconsin orchard- ist, Mr. Poller, who has done a great deal of ex- ing can intrude on them until you can get to another variety. Yovi can take the pollen from any variety you wish; you can get it by mail any- where, and it will keep a number of days, and that can be introduced into that bag so as to fer- tilize that flower. Grow the seed promiscuously, you cannot tell what will come.- St. Paul Farmer. Peach Culture North. The success of the Hale Brothers of (ilastonbury. Conn., during the pres- ent year is very likely to give an impetus to Peach culture. During the present season their jield has been enormously large and of excellent quality, proving conclusively that this fruit can yet be grown where disease has in the past prevented. Their fifty or more acres has proved to be an unusually profitable in- vestment, much better than could be expected in ordinary cases. A favorable condition has been that, as a rule, in the Peach growing States the crop has been lighter than usual. But plainly, if cultivation should be greatly enlarged the effect would be to Fiy. I. rill Tube over-Supply the market and re- /br iYansi>lant- duce the prices. Perhaps it is '""• hardly to he expected that there will be a return to the time when Peaches lay and rotted upon the ground or even fed to hogs for want of a market. But a Uttle larger supply so as to bring the fruit in reach of the poorer classes is desirable.— Exchange. New Method of Transplanting. For material go to a tinsmith and get the hea%iest sheets of U X 20 tin. Oftentimes his stock may be such that he will sell at a low price. Cut these into pieces 10 inches by Hi inches. Turn up the ends of each piece short and roll up and lock these to- gether (no soldering necessary) to make the tube shown in figure 1. A number depending on the amount of transplanting should be made. Place the tul«!S in wooden trays on a wheelbarrow and go where the plants are. If they are Strawberries gather up the leaves of the young plants, slip the tube over them adjusting it so the crown is in the center. Now set one foot squarely on the tube and force it halfway into the soil, then pick up the tube and return it to the tray, continuing imtil you have a load of " potted plants." Convey to where they are to be set, having the soil here soft and mellow. Then you can scoop out the soil and set the tubes in place to half their depth almost as fast as you can crawl on hands and knees. The roots and soil in the tube stand in . the new location just as they did in the old. To remove the tubes we found that to nearly fUl the top of each with water, say twenty or thirty at a time, and then go back to the first one it lifted out easily. Transplanting thus done instead of checking growth reaUy imparted new life. It works perfectly and rapidly. The size of tube given is especially for young Strawberries, Rasp- berries, and for Celery, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Tomatoes. By ha\1ng the plant-bed rich you take enough of the rich soil along to give the plant quite a start. In vegetable plants those once transplanted by dibbling are the best, but during the pa-st few months we have set Lettuce right from the seed bed to the green- house with success. From three to a dozen came up, but this was no detriment, for by setting the chmips si,\ or eight inches apart the outer fines grew fast, and when they were pulled the others had a chance. Figure 2 shows a ne«t of tubes suitable for work on a wider scale. The larger ones of galvanized iron with a stout wire around the tf)i),to prevent bruising when stepping on top of then'. To take up a hill of Melons or Cucimibers or a little tree use a tube si.x inches to a foot across. With very light soil you may need a spade or shovel pushing it beneath the larger tube before lifting. The great point of f he invention is the faciUty with which trans- planting can be done without checking growth. The tubes arc not frail like pots.nor as expensive (the cost ought not to exceed a cent each), and the.v are u.sed with nuich less labor. — A. I. Root's (Medina, (ihiiii (lleiinings in Bee Culture. Apple better than Orange Culture, A neigh- bor who has gone to Florida to raise Oranges I'ccentl.v called on us while visiting his old home. Seeing our Apple trees with their load of highly colored fruit he said: " 1 tell you, sa.v what they ma.v of the beauties of the Orange gro\es, the Fiy 2 A JVcsf (if IxtnsphiiitDm ruhii, penmf nting with raising \piile tiees fiom sted .says: To grow the variety to have the same kinii isolate it by tying a paper bag o\er a bunch of buds, and let them bloom inside of it. After blossoming remove the bag and that Apple will be of the same variety as the tree. Seeds saved in that way can be propagated further north, and prolnibly a degree, and if the seed is again grown there vou can go another degree north with it. I started in l.H4.'i in this wav, and some of 1 •i'""' « ""■ ' '™nK"= t'^e »* i^ best is never more niv original trees are still standing. If you want ; beautiful than the Apple tree of New England, to' cross-grade, just before the flower bud opens, ! The Apple in bloom is far ahead of the Orange, cut out the stamens and leave the pistils stand- | "»<1 "-ben bending to the ground with its load of ing, and put something over them so that noth- I ruby fruit it is ahead again." Again he said: 82 POPULAR GARDENING. January, ** Apple trees do not require the constant nurs- ing and coddling that Orange trees must have to secure good crops. We have to grub the soil two or three times during the summer to keep down weeds, we have to s]>rinkle the foliage to kill in- sects, and we have to scrape and wash the trunk and twigs for the same object. We manure once or twice a year and then we have frosts to con- tend with, and our fruit goes a long way to find a market." And this is the story many Orange growers tell. Apple culture in New England promises quite as well to those who will learn the retiuisites to success as Orange growing in Florida or elsewhere.— New England Farmer. Winter Orchard Pests. A. R. Whitney's remedy for mice, moles and ralibits consists of lime, copperas and glue. Fresh lime is slaked, and enough water is added to make it into moderately thick whitewash. Dissolve two pounds of glue in water and add a dissolved pound of copperas, and stir the whole together. This mixture is ap- plied with a whitewash brush to the trunks of the trees. Prof. Maynard uses half a pound of Paris green to eight quarts of water; carbolic acid is used if danger of poisoning animals is feared.— Prairie Farmer. A Plant at Work. The leaves change the crude sap, which comes up from the roots, and the gases entering directly from the air, into organic com- pounds like starch, sugar, oil. etc., that go to build up the structure of the plant. The sap from the roots enters the soft tissue of the leaf through the many fine branches of the frame work. ITjc gases from the air enter through small openings in the surface of the leaf, and pass between the cells in all parts where the substance is loosely constructed. Each cell or microscopic sac of the leaf, which contains green matter, is a workshop where the crude materials are brought and in which the sunshine transmutes the elements into highly endowed compounds. S/arcTi, for one thing, is formed, and this may pass to some other part of the plant, to be there stored up in large quantities, as in the grain of Corn or the under- gi'ound stem of the Potato. Over the entire sur- face of the leaf is spread a layer of cells without green contents. This is a tough protective cov- ering called the epidermis and may be easily peeled off from the other portion of the leaf. Through this epidermis at frequent intervals are small openings for the passage of air, which are known as the breathing pores. The reader can gain some idea of the smallness of the plant cells, when it is stated that sometimes the breathing pores number over 200,000 to the squreinchof surface.— Pro/. Hahtead. Desirable Window Plants. Fuclmas bloom freel.v, and are as ejisily grown as Geraniums. They require a rich soil, and are a nuisance if not thrifty; well rotted turf, some old manure, and a little sand suits them. Stick in some old, rusty nails; the oxide of iron deepens the colors. They should have weak liquid manure once a week, when budding or in bloom. They do not need a high temperature, but plenty of light and air. Red Spiders trouble them in a hot and dry room. Wash both sides of the leaves with soapsuds, afterward showering with soft tepid water. F. Speciosa, Mrs. Marshall, Syringjeflora, Lustre and Carl Halt are fine winter-bloomers. Begonias are mostly very free bloomers, suitable for pot culture. The glossy green Iea,ves are beautiful; they bloom nearly all the time. Few plants re- ward good culture better; soil should be rich, fibrous loam, with some sand and bits of rotten wood from an old log or stump, if it can be ob- tained. Abutilou or Flowering Maple is a hand- some parlor tree. It needs a sandy soil; ordinary garden soil loosened with sand is suflScient. If it does not bloom freely, the air of the room is too hot and close; water freely. White Jasmines {grandijlora). Nothing can be more lovely. The exquisite, subtle fragrance seems not of earth. Blooms from September until January; leaves are evergreen and glossy; needs a trellis; loves a rich soil Mahernia odoraia. This is a gem; blooms only in winter, when it covers itself with graceful lemon-colored Lily-of-the-valley bells; one plant perfumes a room. Must not get dry. or have too much water, at once; needs re- potting in the spring, and constant pinching through the summer for compact shape. Linum JIavum blooms in winter; shrubby stock, smooth, shining leaves; bright lemon-colored flowei-s like medium sized Morning Glories. Cuphea platyccntra has small, tubular flowers; scarlet with white tips; always in bloom, and so bonny, it ought to be called "Little Cheerful." B. hys- mpifolia has flowers of a bright lilac, very pro- fuse. Nirembergia gra<:ilis can be grown from seed, does well in sun or shade, and blooms pro- fusely. Set out in the garden in the spring, it literally covers itself with flowers that resemble those of Flax, except in color. Old plants winter well in the cellar, and young, self-sown ones of summer for winter blooming.— Farmer. THE CULINARY DEPARTMENT. Variety for the Table. A French cook of great celebrity boasted that he could prepare Potatoes in 200 different ways and Apples in 400. Prune Souffle. One-half pound of Prunes, whites of six eggs, twelve tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Stone the Prunes and chop fine. Beat eggs to a stiff froth, stir in the sugar, whip in lightly the chopped Prunes. Bake in a quick oven five or ten minutes and serve imme- diately with cream. Where are the Jars ] Tomatoes will often spoil in glass jars, becoming thin and watery simply from the action of the light, and pre- serves thus lose much of their richness and flavor. Candied fruit should always be kept in the dark to preserve its rich color and flavor. Try keep- ing all fruit in a covered chest or trunk down cellar, if you have no enclosed cupboard there. —California Patron. Cold Baspberry Pudding. The bottled or pre- served fruit will answer admirably. Put a pint of Raspberries at the bottom of a pie dish, and pour over them a rich custard, made by beating up three eggs in a quarter of a pint of milk; add a little sugar, and whisk the custard until it be- comes light and frothy. Put the pudding into the oven immediately, and bake until the cus- tard is quite set. Let it get thoroughly cold; then sift fine sugar over the top and serve. Apple Coddle. Pare and quarter tart Apples, add one lemon for every six Apples, and cook till a straw will pass through them. Make a syrup of half a pound of white sugar to each pound of Apples; put the Apples and Lemons, sliced into the syrup, and boil gently until the Apples look clear; then take them up carefully, so as not to break them, and add an ounce or more of gelatine to the syrup, and let it boil up. Then lay a slice of Lemon on each Apple, and strain the syrup over them.— Farmer's Review. How Eice is Cooked in Japan. A recent traveler in Japan says ; They do know how to cook Rice here, though, and for the benefit of consumers in the United States I investi- gated the matter. Only just enough cold water is poured on to prevent the Rice from burning to the pot, which has a tight fitting cover and is set on a moderate fire. The rice is steamed, rather than boiled, until it is nearly dcI are cut off. They work under the snow ordinarily, hence if the snow Is kept packed about the trunks of trees and shrubs their opportunity is taken from them. Their food belUR scarce now, trapping them, using tempting bait, works well. Fansies for spring bloom may be sown now. Plans. Little can be done in this department during January, save to plan and U^ prepare for the future. Hut as our success in gardening depends much upon the intelligence and foresight brought t-o bear upon our work, we should look upon this first month of the year, wttli the large amount of leisure for study and deliber- ation that it brings, as most Important to the garden. Pruning. If any part of a tree lacks in free growth, by pruning now the shoots will push with increased vigor next year. All scars above an inch across should be coated with paint or tar to keep out moisture. Rabbits often make bad work gnawing the bark of yoimg trees. Some bloody meat or liver rubbed on the trunks will prevent this. See remedies elsewhere. Rock Work in some shape is desirable In nearly every I)lace. This is a good season for gathering material with which t<) construct, so that when spring comes formation may be begun early. One or two kinds of atone usually look better in constructions of this kind than more would, the idea being to make It appear as if the stone was natural to the place. In the ab.sence of stone fair substitutes may he had In odd shaped furnace clinkers and distorted burned bricks from kilns. Rustic Work may now be made. Cedar Is a favorite and easily worked wood for this purpose. Now that the swamps are closol It Is readily procured. Laurel wood, and especially its roots, Is another favorite material; but many other kinds that will work up well may be used. With a little Ingenuity rustic tables seats, arbors, vases, etc., may be made to be beautiful and not costly. SnoTur drifts so high where young trees are standing as to reach above where the branches leave the trunks are liable to cause the limbs to break, when later the snow settles away. A little shoveling will prevent this. Snow that has accumulated in the tops of evergreens or shrubs to be shaken out when it is light and soft. PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. Amaryllis. Repot those showing signs of growth. watering very little at first, gradually Increasing. Azaleas coming into bloom need plenty of water. A collection may be had in flower over a much longer season, if different temperatures are at command, by bringing some Into high heat by degrees for early, keeping others cooler, some quite cool. Begonia Rex may be propagated now from leaves. Turn well matured ones of these bottom side up, and with a sharp knife cut the main ribs here and there. and just below dividing points, at about nine places. Place these on sand, right side up. In a heat of 60* with a little sand on top of the leaf to weight It down. The air should be moist. We have flung the leaves under bedded Rose bushes, grown for buds, and without fur- ther care have found them to root well. Broken glass must have Immediate attention. In our greenhouse v;c keep " life preservers " made in several sizes on h.'. d to close up any breaks until they can be repaired. ': hese consist of pieces of board a trifle larger than v c. two or more panes of glass re- spectively, an their habits; those flowering only after r-onslderable growth has been made, first, while quick bloomers ma.v have this deferred. Favor kinds of which .stock is scarce for hurrying up the growth of cuttings. Ventilate freely in bright and mild weather to keep the atmosphere sweet and wholesome to the plants. FRUIT GARDEN ANDORCHARD. Catalogues. See under Lawn and Flower Garden. Currants may be pruned by shortening the !a.st season's growth, and trimming to form open heads. Cuttings. See to it that Grape or Currant cuttings made In the fall have the protection they need now; an Inch or two In thickness of straw will answer. G-ooseberries. Directions for Cui-rants will apply. Insects. Very few are visible at this season, and yet a sharp eye run over the branches may detect the rings of tent caterpillar eggs and also coeus insects when present. Wherever found remove them; each one of the former destroyed is equivalent to lessening the caterpillars of next season by three or four hundred. Labels on trees. If left as they come from the nursery, will by their wires as the branches enlarge. In time, cause strangulation. Serious damage is often done to trees in this way. On mild days go over the trees and remove any that are liable to do this. For permanent labels, use pine, making them heavy, and painting, or else u.se zinc and in either case, copper wire about size No. 16 for fa.stening to the trees, making the loops so large that in years the growth will not fill them. Mice and Rabbits. See under other depai-tments. Shelter Belts. The winter season Is a good time to consider the effects of these on the orchard. Tree pruning may be done In mild weather. More harm comes from over-pruning than not pruning enough. Weak and Imperfect shoots should come out, as also such as cross each other In close conjunction. Weak or stunted trees may often be helped by a severe cutting back. Aim In pruning to open the head, that air and sun can enter. Tree trunks may be scraped of loose bark, and if In- fested with moss or scale be painted with a mixture of lime, soot and clay. Work the brush vigorously that the liquid may get Into evei-y crevice. Some fruit growers use linseed oil as a bark wash for insects. Winter Covering. If this has been displaced, re- apply. Some dirt or moist cf>al ashes on the coat will serve to keep it down. VEGETABLE GARDEN. At the South early vegetables may be sown from January to April. Vegetables, like Flowers, may be classed as hardy and tender, the former including Peas. Parsnips, Parsley, Onion, Leek, Lettuce, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Cress, Spinach, Beets, etc., may in auy sec- tion be sown as early as the condition of the soil will allow. Tender kinds, such as Beans. Tomatoes, Cucum- bers and Melons, can only be sown with safety any- where at Corn-planting time. Cabbage plants lu frames need an abundance of air whenever the temperature Is to the thawing point and above; below this they need not be uncovered for days. Hot-Beds. For these horse manure should be accu- mulated In a dry place, but not piled* so deep as to in duce free heating before It Is needed. A few boards or rails laid up .slanting where the manure Is deposited to prevent clo.se settling will aid In this. Lettuce In frames. See on Cabbage plants. Manure. Plenty of manure with tillage are almost the only secrets of raising large crops. In cold weather and with frozen ground manure hauling may be done with greater ease to teams than at any other time. Manure should not, however, be spread at this season. but so distributed in heaps as to be quickly available when needed. The piles should be In a compact rather than a loose scattered form, to prevent waste by the washing out of the strength before tbe earth Is thawed to receive It. Mice are often troublesome In frames, cold pits, root cellars and the like, now that their food Is scarce. Fix up some " pills " for them, by soaking Pea.s In water until they swell, then roll in arsenic and burj' just below the surface in .some light earth. They will take these before plants or veKetal)les, and It Is better that they shoidd. Straw mats will be needed where there are sash beds. A good size is to make thom the width of a sash and a half, and of a length to hang down half a foot at top and bottom of sash over edges of bed. Tools. Put In order. New ones that are needed may be nmde or ordered In the winter's leisure. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS. Asparagus. Observe directions for Rhubarb. Graperies that are now being started up shoidd have not above 55" of heat at the outset, and he well syringed twice a day, to assist the breaking of the buds. As the young growth appears, sufficient air must 1m' admitted to prevent the growth from being weaknnd the foliage thin. Advantage shouhl be taken of mild days to air the structure freely. Mushrooms. The nearer the temperature of bearing beds can be kept to 60® the better. Steady temperature will greatly prolong the bearing. Manure should be saved up for new beds. Rhubarb under glass must be kept well watered. Snow on Glass. On warm forcing houses It usually soon melts, but where the temperature inside is kept rather low. It may need removing, A .snow scraper three feet long is one of the safest articles for removing soft snow. If a shovel must be used, let It be of sufflcient width to reach over at least two bars. Cold pits that are frozen up should not have the snow removed from the glass, but the frames that are un- frozen inside must be kept clear of snow. Strawberries in forcing must not be allowed to .set tooniucli fruit or this will be small; a moderate number of large lierries are much more satisfactory than many small ones. When euough have set clip off the remain - Ing flowers, and then lat-ercoimt on removing thesmal lest berries also. Apply the .syringe to keep down Red Spider. A void drouth and over watering at the root. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. Nonsense is what the Ameneau Farmer calls the talk of pullets being too fat to lay. With old hens it may be possible. It is better not to chop up the (Cabbage or Turnips for f<.»wls; the exercise derived from pickinf? them to pieces is beneficial. A good way to serve Cabbage heads is to invert them aver an upright pointed stick 18 inches high. Some of the Nice Points. It should be noted that fowls that are confined in yards and kept warm in winter will gi\e better results the en- tire year than when they are allowed to roam at will. True, Ik-ii,'^ that have free range will some- times lay racir(M't;-^s in summer than will those tliiit lire fontiiiiM], but the hens that are properly rami f»tr dining tin- cold season will lay at a timo when the hi^rliest i>rices f(»r eggs are usu- ally obtained. ' Save the Quills. There is now a market for all the quilLs that are plucked from the Turkey. ITntil recently tlie demand for Turkej' quills has been confined to the tail feathers, and those growing uimn the secaratiug a flock of poultry it is almost indispensable, fiet the flock in a small yard or shed, and instead live a little farther down the road, each have as many more; and the neighbors who live up the road sell anywhere from 4 to l.i dozen each week. Now, what on earth is to prevent all the farmers in your neighborhood from "clubbing together" anberry plants, etc. Will not manure do as well ?— W. W. K., Toronto. Ont. 562. Canning Machinery, Etc. Can you give us name of any manufacturer of Canning Machluery ? Also, can you direct us In any parties or any books that will give 'information on the subject ?— Geo. E. Hicks. 563. Chrysanthemums Mixing. Does this occur through having the different varieties together while In bloom or at any time ?— T. R.. (Iti-eat Bend, Kansas. 564. Works on Plant Culture. Can you name some books, etc., treating on propagation and culture of plants under glass?— M. A. P., New Haven, Conn. ."M. Works on Grapes and other Fruits. Which do .vou consider arc the best works on Grape culture; also, "on general fruits, with price?— U. P., Columbus, Ha. 566. Applying Ashes. If ashes In contact with ani- mal mauures drive off valuable gases, how soon after manure Is apidled to laud may the former be applied without loss? What gases are driven oil! ? "567. Dissolving Bones for making Fertilizers. I have known a successful farmer years ago to use large (luantltles of bones, and vitriol to dissolve them, for t'ertlUzers. Can you tell how ?— F. H., Onehama, Mich. 568. Defective Hot-Water Apparatus. A hot-water heater aud pipes recently put into my greenhouse fails to work. When I get up heat, the water in the tank, whicli is above the return pipe near the boiler, surges up and down causing it to overflow and fllllng the house with steam. If any one could suggest what tne defect is, 1 would feel greatly obliged, f here Is a rise of one inch In six feet in the pipe No matter how hot the fire may be the pipes at the further end are never warm.— New Beginner, Rahtvay, N. J. 569. Montbretia Pottsi not Blooming. This bulb has not flowered as weU with me as I have seen it do by others. The trouble ?-C. C. E., Champagne Co., III. 570. Propagating Large-leaved Begonias. Will any reader tell me how best to proceed In propagating these?— E. G., Montgomery Co., Ohio. 571. Sprinkling the Leaves oi Plants. We are told that little trickles of water are worse than no water; give a good-soaking or let it alone. But then if is added gentle sprinkling over the leaves is beneflcial. But a high scientific authority and a .great gardener Mr Matthew Williams, of England, tells us that we cannot do anything worse than this in hot, dry weather; that by so "doing we open the pores of the leaves and make them evaporate the moisture from then- tissues and from the ground at a hundred horse-power. It would be interestuig to have this question ventilated.-D. K. 5T3. Pruning the Quince Tree. WiU you kindly tell how U) prime this tree? I have pruned my tree annu- ally, but for .some reason fruit Is scarce, although tbere are usually flowers— Mrs. M. H., Atlantic City, X J. 573. Fertilizers for Strawberry. WiU It pay to give a la.st spring's bed any fertilizers? 400 poimds of guano did not seem to cotmt.- W. R. R., Jackson, Co., lit. 574. Fruit for Small Plat. Kindly name two or three Pears an Apple and some Plum trees for a small gar- den for home use.— S. R.. Orange Co., N. T. 575. Pine for Shelter Belt. In planting a shelter belt of White Pine (Piniis Strobus.) how far apart should the trees stand ? Should there be a double row? What is the best time to plant, and how far to be cut back ? 576. Cotton Cloth for Hot-beds. What is the best material and how should it be prepared ?— A. F., Dor- chester Co., Delaware. 577. Bouvardias after Flowering. How should the plants be treated after their first strong crop of bloom? iSo they require a rest?-C. S. E., Onondaga Co.. A. T. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 44.5. Double "Wliite Feverfew. They are uot hardy enough to live outside and should be taken up, potted, and placed in the lightest part of a cool cellar. Water should be given very spar- ingly, and injury from damp guarded against. Early in February they may be removed to a Ught, sunny window and started into growth. As soon as the shoots become three or four inches In length they can be taken off and rooted. These young plants will flower nicely all summer, while the old wintered-over plants would in all probability prove a perfect failure as far as flowers are concerned.— C. E. P. 4.59. Protection from Babbits. For two win- ters I have found the following a perfect safe- guard against Rabbits: 1 pound of Frazer's axle grease to 2 pounds of lard or linseed oil; heat and mix thoroughly. I apiilied it by means of an old mitten, warm; easily ■'^doped" 1,000 trees per day. Cost merely nominal; not necessary that aU the bark be greased. The smell goes a good way.— C. B. Elliutt, Bmru Co., Mu. 508. Bange of Quinces. The Quince does well generiilly where tlie extremes of cold do not reach mii.'li lievond 10 or 15 degrees below zero. The tree is native to the south of Europe and Germany, but succeeds generally in temperate cUraates. In Scotland the fruit seldom ripens, except on a wall. 472. Hot-bed in October. I used to run hot-beds all winter long, especially for Asparagus forcing, but such a job! Asparagus put in about the middle of October will give " grass " tor Thanks- "ivlng, but it doesn't pay. Now that greenhouses can be put up and run so cheaply, it doesn't pay to run hot-beds in winter. But even now I run small hot-licds for Radishes.— W. Falcgner. 4915. Peaches from Seed. The stones should be in the ground now. We generally " bed " the stones in earth as soon as we can get them in fall, then in spring sow in rows 3 or 4 inches deep. 492. Pests on the Mushroom Bed. If mice have access to the bed you can't prevent them eating the Mushrooms. Keep them out. Surely flies do not soil your Mushrooms in September or October? I know they are very troublesome towards spiing; they are bred in immense quan- tities in the manure. We cannot get rid of them without thoroughly cleaning out the house. We can do this pcrfecflv before starting any of em- beds, iilso ).:irtiall\- iuiv time during the Mush- room season when the licilsare earthed over, by shutting up the house quite close and blowing pyrethrum powder into the air. Throwing the powder about is no good; it must be suspended in the atmosiihere so that the Insects can breath it in (■nlcr tre\ious to iilanting, and as draining can be done earlier than the ground would be fit to plant, we would advise that it be got at \'ery early in the spnng. It is a pity this important work was not performed in the recent fall months. Generally spealring it may be said that while some varieties of fruit t rees are better adapted to moist soils than others, tlicrc are none which will not do better in a moist hollow when it is tile drained. 52H. Wormy Apples. I don't understand how an Apple that is wormy and unsound can he "otherwise good." However I will gladly give my own experience in preventing insect attacks, and am sure if "G. C." will follow it up thoroughly he will have no further trouble. The insect is undoubtedly the codling moth (Carpocapsa pom- itneUa), to kill which effectually the work must be begun as soon as the blossoms fall off, for the moth lays her eggs in the blossom end of the Apple about that time, and the tiny insects soon hatch, and unless destroyed at once eat their way into the Apple; after which no remedy will reach them. The only poison which will meet the case is some arsenical preparation (Paris Green or London Purple), and this must be ap- plied thoroughly in a fine mist like-spray. The first application should be made with blossom falling and again in about three or four weeks. In a bad season for insect* it should be ai>plied a third time. Other things favoring this will en- sure you a good crop of Apples. The apparatus used in my work was the " Little Giant " Atom- izer, manufactured by A. H. Nixon, of Dayton, Ohio, and I can warmly recommend this machine t^ all orchai'dists. I used about one pound of London Purple to 60 gallons of water, and think one pound to 75 gallons would be strong enough. In every case which has come under my observa- tion where this treatment was followed out the result was more than satisfactory.— J. O. A., Montgotncry Co., Ohio. .548. Peach Culture: Shortening in The " Shortening in " process is being largely prac- ticed in Peach growing sections, making trees more stocky and better. Our rule is to cut back one-half to two-thirds of the past season's growth in early spring following, and if limbs or branches are too thick thin them out by cutting back close to body or large limbs of trees. In conversation with many Virginia and North Carolina growers all advocate growing all kinds of fruit trees, es- pecially Apples with short bodies and low heads, as it prevents sun scald to the bodies. Yours is a sample of a large number of similar letters. Ex- amine well the locality where you expect to lo- cate, and inform youi-self as to success of this and that kind of fruit in that locality. Hill tops and western slopes are, as a rule, safer in that section than valleys or eastern slopes.— A. M. P. .565. Works on Grapes and Other Fruits. Ful- ler's Grape Culturist (price §1.50) and Hussraan's American Grape-Growing and Wine-Making (price $1..50), are the leading standard works (jn the subject. Both are good. The lattcu- is the work of a man of the widest expeiience perhaj»s. The best treatise on fruit culture for your part of the country is found in White's Gardening for the South (price S2.(X)), a book treating also on vegetable gardening. 50n. Sweet Potato Culture. The Sweet Potato requires a rich, light, warm soil, and in this vicinity is generally planted about the first of Jxine in rows or ridges four feet apart, the plants being one foot apart in the row. Or the j* can be planted in hills four feet apart, placing three plants in a hill. After growth commences all the cultivation that they require will consist in keep- ing them well cultivated. And the vines should be moved occasionally in oi*der to prevent them rooting at the joints. The sprouts or slips as the plants are termed can be usually procured at any principal seed store, or if they are wanted in quantity one can readily raise them at home, by starting the tubersin a hot-bed aliout the middle of April. In order to start the tubers place them in shallow boxes, tliiekly together on two or three inches of sand, and cover as soon as they show indications of starting. The slips or sprouts should be carefully broken as soon as they are four our five inches in length, and if well rooted and the weather is suitable planted out, or else they can be i>lanted in rows an inch apart in similar boxes filled with turfv loam and sand in equal pai-ts until wanted. The tubers and slips will require the treatment usually in- quired by hot-bed plants. A few tubers will pro- duce a (piantity of plants. The Nansemond is a very reliable variety.— Chas. E. Parnell. 5ix'. Pears for Market. IJartlett, Beurre An- jou, Howell. Mount Vernon, Seckel, Sheldon, I^awrence, Kieffer, Belle Lue re- moved to a liglit situati<»n (or else placed as close to the gliiss as possible) where an average tem- perature of 45 is maintained. Water freely and give air whenever the opportunity offers. For this purpose the early blooming varieties of Hy- acinths, Tulips, etc., should be used.—C.E. P. 515. Grubs in Cyclamens. This is a pest to which these beautiful pets are becoming very subject. Your best coui-se would have been to have washed the corms or tubers perfectly clean before planting them out in the border for the summer, and then repeat the opreation before potting them in the fall. This would have ban- ished them for the season. They should also have been gi\en clejm pots and drainage, as well as jK'rfectly clean compf»st.— C E. P. 516. Cyclamen Treatment. In order to secure a succession of bloom for a long period, the stock should be divided into several portions. That intended for the earliest bloom should be given a temperature of .55 degrees from the time fire is started until all the flowers are expanded. The remainder of the stock should be kept as cool as possible, and from them a succession of plants may be introduced into heat from time to time as necessity or occasion may require. Cj^clamens flower best when given a light sunny situation, and a temperature of from 50 to 55 degrees. Don't crowd the plants, and do not let them suffer for water at any time while gi-owing.— (?. E. P. 511. Double Glazing. After many repeated trials this has been abandoned as being very un- satisfactory. Not only do the two thicknesses of glass retard the light and prevent the rapid melting of frost and snow, but the dust and dirt that will eventually gather between the glass of- fers a serious objection to sun and light at a period when every ray of light is needed,— C. E.P. 5:i0. Colored Plates of Fruit. You can pro- cui-e these at a very reasonable rate of the Stecher Lithographing Co., Rochester. N. Y. 522. Easpberry, Crimson Beauty. I cannot say as to its value as a market variety, but for amateur cultivation at home it is a very de- sirable variety. — C. E. P. 523. Raspberries for Canada. Yes, they should stand if protected by being laid down, and covered with eaith. Don't cover too early; uncover gradimlly in the Spring.— C. E. P. ■524. Sources of Vegetable Seed. Asparagus is mostly grown in New Jersey and Long Island. Beets in New York, Pennsylvania and Connecti- cut. Bush Beans and Peas in Canada and New York State on the immediate like of Lake On- tario. Pole Beans in Connecticut, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Cabbage in Long Island, Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Cauliflower hjis always been imported, but recent experiments show that it can be successfully grown on Long Island. Olery in New York, New Jereey and Pennsyhania. Cucumbers in Connecticut, New Jersey and Michigan. Carrots in New York, Mass- achusetts and Connecticut. Egg Plant in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Leek and Lettuce in New York, Michigan and (.>)nnecticut. Melons in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. Onions in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Michigan, Pennsyl- vania and New Jersey. Pai-snip in New York and Connecticut. Turnip in Pennsylvania, Con- necticut and Jlichigan. Tomato arid Pepper in New Jersey, Michigan and Connecticut. .528. TTse of Pine Spines. They are of no value to mix with leaves for compost, and I would not advise any one to use them for mulching. They should be raked off the grass, and if you have a low spot in the hog pen or cow yard, where water stands, till it up with them; and aUow them to remain until thoroughly rotted. Don't bvn-n them off on the grass.— C. E. P. r)3f». Rhubarb Culture. The cultivation of this vege- tahle Is of the simplest kind. It prefers a deep sandy loam, and if it c-an be given a sheltered situation the t-rop will be nmch earlier, and consequently more profitable. The ground should be plowed as early In the spring as possible to a depth of ten or twelve Inches, harrowed thoroughly, and then marked out in rows four feet apart each wav. At eaeli lutersection fliree or four sbovelsful of well decaved manure Is plaeed and well niixeil with tlie soil, ana here the i>Iant Is placed. After planting they must be welleultivat««lat all times. After thf frost hasdestroyed the follaKeeach hill should be given three or four shovelsful of well decayed ma nure. Tlil-^ treatment sliould be given yearly until the plants bcionie exhausted or too large, when a new nlimtatlon should he made. Propagation Is elTeete^ feet, you will sow fM> lbs. per acre. SteiPi)liik' I foot you will sow WIJ lbs. per acre. The breadth of laud covered Is easily regulated hy the angle at which the Nitrate loaves the hand. A gardener had better use Sulphate? of Potash than Kainlte, and he will usually find more benefit from Super iihosphate than either. The better way Is t feet apart, and then eventually to 2(> by ;J0 feet apart; for nuts and tlnibcr ronibined thev inay lie planted S feet apart in rows JO feet apart. This tree Is a very mucli faster grower tlian it is generally con- sidered to be, if planted on good rich soil, and thor- oughly cultivated while young. Its wood varies In color and t(UaHty on different soils. The better the soil, and growth the better the wood and color.— D. B. W. 547. Arbor Vitee Hedge. The American Arbor VitsKi-u Hakrls. 549. Green Manuring for Fruit. Yes, If the soil is good enough to grow a fairly heavy crop of Rye, Buck- wheat, Red Clover, or Peas. These should be plowed under when in their strongest growth, just when the seed is in the milk. If the land is not rich enough to produce a good heavy crop of these, it should be manured until It will. The next spring after the green crop Is turned umler it should !)»• idowed verv deeply and the fruit plants idanti-d. These should be thorough- ly cultivated until middle of .Tuly. then Buckwheat sown thickly among them, then that turned under, and so year after year until the desired fertility is obtained. This is (he practice of our best orchardlsts.- D. B. W. 5*iO. Pears that will Ripen well on Trees. We think there are no varieties of Pears that will ripen up so finely on the tree as they will gathered at the right time and ripened up rightly In the house. Some varie- ties that never ripen fit for use on the tree are among the ver>" finest when house rlpeiierl. Especially Is this true of most summer am] rarlv :iiitinnii \arietirs; such, to ripen them t^> their liik'h.st .luaiity. shnul.i he gath- ered as soon as fully grtiwn and well colored but before any are mellow. Theu if you wish to ripen rpileklv and finely spread them a few Inches deep on a betl comfor ter, say. and cover them with another in a warm mom. If slowly In a cool rooni, or they may be placed In drawers, or In any situation, that is dark, where they will ripen oulckly or slowly as the degree of heat; heat ripens, cold retards.— D. B. W. 566. Applying Ashes. Practically, you are perfect- ly safe in applying ashes to the land at any time. If the ashes set free any of the ammonia or other gases, the soil will hold it.— .Toski'h HAurtrs, .517. Euphorbia Jacquinsflora Culture. This can be propagated from cuttings of the half ripened wood In April and May. They should be potted off into three inch pots as soon as rooted, and shifted on from time to time as they require It during the summer months. From June to September they should be plunged In a sunny situation where they can be given careful atten- tion as to watering, and pinching back the leading shoots so as to obtain bushv specimens. It Is also ad- visable to turn the pots jit times to pn-vent them from rooting through Into the u'loimd. Almul tlii> middle of September the\ should be taken n|.. -hlltc-d if neces- sary, brought luslde and placvl where thev are fully exposed to the sun lu a temperature <»f not less than 60 degrees at any time. WTien the plants are coming Into bloom liquid manure can be given at times to &(l- vantage. After blooming nlvc a period of rest, and as soon as growth again eomniences, turn them out of their nots and rer><>t, placing them in as small pots as possible, and when the.se are well filled with roots shift, and treat precisely as in the previous .season. This Euphorbia dislikes to be over potted, and the pots must be thoroughly drained. It prefers a compost com- jjosed of twothirds turfy loam, (me-third well decayed manure,wlth a sprinkling of sharp sand.— C. E. P. 86 POPULAR GARDENING. January, 53T. Pruning Evergreens. As you do nnt give the names of the eversreens you lefer to it is difficult to give precise directlous, but as a general rule Spruces, I'ines and Firs may have the ends of the shoots pinched hack while they are yet young and tender; while Arbor Vltjes, Box and others of a more compact growth may be tltmmed back more severely with the shears as soon as the young growth is sufBclentiy hardened.— C. E. P. Sod. Salt for Quince Trees. Yes. Sprinkle as much salt around the Quince as will make the ground look barely white all around the trees for 8 to 10 feet in early spring, say 1 to'> qts. to a tree.accordlng to size, and again in Jime. Eveiy other year should be sufflc- ient. The same treatment is excellent for fear trees, especially Dwarfs. If the one application should not Increase the color and health of the foliage do not re- peat, for some soils have sufficient salt.— D. B. W. thotigh a few degrees will not do much harm they are quite as well off without it. It is a bad plan to store the plants away for the winter in outhouses where they can receive no attention; they never break so regularly and well in the spring if they get entirely dry during winter, though it is very little water that they want for three or four months in the dormant season. Well made standards must indeed be kept growing slowly all winter. Old plants kept over mainly for bloom should be pruned In February and placed in mild heat, and as soon as they begin to The Culture of Fuchsias. The Fuchsia needs no praise, and the sub.iect of its cultivation may be summed up in comparatively few remarks. The plants require to be grown rather fast, and therefore a starving system must not be practiced. They love warmth and moisture, and some amount of sun- shine. They cannot endure a dry soil or a dry air, and a long-continued roasting glare of sunshine. No matter whether you wish to grow nice little bvishes for a small greenhouse or the sitting-room window, or for sale as pot plants, or giant pyramids for a flower show, the routine practice will be nearly the same and must be given careful attention. If grand specimens are desired take cuttings in September, but if only plants of moderate size, take them in spring as soon as you can get them. In the month of December or January prune a few old plants into shape and put them in a temperature of (50 degrees, and keep them regularly syringed. In the course of a month they will supply you with any number of cuttings, and to strike these is the simplest task in plant propagation. In the earliest moment the cuttings should he potted off into bright two-inch or small three-inch pots, and soon after be shifted into four-inch and so on according to size. It is a bad plan to over-pot at any time (but they should not get much pot-bound), for the roots are too slow in finding their way into the fresh soil, and the whole mass may, in consequence, get sour. For a coTiipost use two parts nice flbry loam and one part thoroughly decayed ma- nure, with a little well rotten leaf mold or rotten hops, and a good sprinkling of sharp sand. The soil should be used rough; the larger the pot the more lumjiy should the soil be. The pots should be moderately well drained and the plants potted firm, but not rammed too hard. If the plants do well they will make five to seven-inch pot specimens suitable for exhibiting in September. Sometimes the plants will throw side shoots close to the soil, and at others they will not do so without stopping. But at all times it is as well to niip the top out when they get about a foot high; it strengthens the .side shoots. For dwarf bushes the young plants must be stopped when eight or nine inches high, the young shoots again .stopped and then trained out neatly with sticks. The main stem must have a good stout stake to keep it upright. The plants .should not be stopped for si.\ weeks to two months before they are expected to be in flower. For growing trees or standards no training is required beyond rubbing off the side shoots, and letting the main stem run up to whatever height is required. It must then be topped and allowed to throw out shoots, which must be pinched twice or three times to form a handsome head. Fuchsia plants kept over summer should be stood out-of-doors, at least toward au- tumn, to ripen the wood, but they should be housed before any severe frost sets in, for A YOUNG POT FUCHSIA. break take them out of the pots and remove as much of the old soil from them as you can without in,iuring the roots, and put them into pots two sizes smaller, or in the same pots again, and keep them well syr- inged from the time they are started until they begin to flower. From .50° to tiO' is a good heat for growing B'uchslas at all times, but if they are wanted to be in flower at any particular time they will stand 70" to 80"; but of course the wood is much longer jointed when they are grown in a high temperature. It is not advisable to shade the plants much, though they will not stand much sunshine. There can be no better liquid manure than is made by putting fresh horse drop- pings into a tub of soft water, and to use the solution quite clear and considerably diluted. It should be near the same temperature as the house the plants are in, even one or two degrees warmer; colder it ought not to be. It is not well to play the syringe on the plants when they are in flower, for the spla.shing of the water disfigures the leaves. The Plant Houses not to be Closed The stronger advocates of the use of hardy plants for the adornment of lawns anil flower gardens advance as a main argu- ment the saving the expense of annual propagation and wintering over of large numbers of tender plants. Bearing, as the argument is supposed to do, directly on the purse, it no doubt carries much weight. And yet we must not forget that the two classes referred to are so essentially distinct in their beautifying qualities that no true gardener can or ever will entertain the idea of giving up either the one or the other. If the yearly bedding out of tender plants is more costly than the planting and keep- ing up of a border of hardy perennials, there are compensations, too, that go far towards reconciling the increased expense. There is, for one, the much prized advantage of brilliancy of color and continuity of bloom In a compact form, which can never be adequately met in hardy plants alone. The quick response in a handsome display of flowers, foliage and forms, fol- lowing on the investment for the plant- ing stock is another merit in favor of the latter, viewing the matter, as we are largely bound to do, from the popular standpoint. Then, too, the bedding out system tends to enlarge the taste for flowers and plants through drawing out in the vicinity of every fair green- house of perhaps half a dozen cultivators of flowers in beds, vases and pots, for every one to be found making a respect- able show with hardy plants alone. The fact that the cultivation of tender plants in the summer out-of-doors serves di- i-ectly to the increased culture of the same as house plants, in keeping them over the winter, must also be regarded. True the bedding out system has often been very badly represented in those gardens where it has been undertaken, even on a large and expensive scale. But the fault has risen mainly through a lack of appreciation of the effects of color and arrangement. We have not a word against bright colors. They are as indispensable as are the fine and free forms of growth that are among the marks of the hardy border from early to late. In either case if there be faults they come from the misuse of the ma- terials employed. But what about the employment of hardy herbaceous plants alone in the flower garden? Shall we revert to the condition of gardens before the bedding- out system, mth what may perchance have developed in it that is bad, opened the eyes of the masses to the beauty of flowers? Shall we not rather change what may be bad to the better in the bedding out system, and at the same time add all we can of the beautiful, whether they be tender or hardy, annual or perennial, to the number of our out-tloor decorative plants? We must also not forget that the treat- ment of hardy plants from a decorative pomt of view is in many cases qiaite as bad as ordinary bedding ever could be. Passing through gardens we often hear the remark that there is always something charmingly new and interesting coming out among herbaceous plants as the growth and flowers unfold. It is a point to be ap- preciated at its full value. At the same time let us not lose sight of the fact that a great majority of garden possessors are not seeking so much for something specially interesting to the close beholder as bold ef- fects and plenty of flowers. Whether these are tender, half hardy, hardy, or of the many desirable seed-grown annuals, bien- nials or perennials, will not trouble them. And whether viewed from the standpoint of the popular flower grower, or from that higher one of the cultivated taste that de- mands the best results for a reasonable out- lay, it must be admitted that the last named end is attainable only as we assume the at- titude of slighting the use of no particular section of plants. At any rate, unless guided by very stringent motives of econ- omy, the most gratifying results can never be reached with the greenhouse doors closed. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 87 THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* XII. BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST. Coniinuid from page (V*. I^.MiELS AND Labeling. Directions Un- makiiiK a permanent record of the trees, etc. planted in a garden were given in con- nection vvitli Figure Sti. But in addition to sucti a record every kind of tree, slirub and plant should be plainly labeled. Good la- bels are of great value in promoting that familiarity with kinds which all garden- ers should aim to acquire. To know every tree and plant by its correct name is one of the strongest marks of an intelligent horti- culturist. Then, too, labels have the ad- vantage of being always accessible to ob- servers, as a record (important in its place) cannot be. With having all the plants plainly labeled our grounds become schools of horticulture to all who visit them. The first question we usually ask on seeing line speci- mens of any kind, is "What is it V" and the presence or absence of a plain label often makes just the difference between one's going away informed on that point or not. The importance of correct labeling in the orchard and fruit garden is by far too often over- looked. I venture to say that not one orchard in ten is plainly labeled three years after planting, a thing strange indeed in view of the advantages and slight cost of providing good labels. The labels from the nursery seldom answer permanently. Usually they are unpainted, so that the name soon washes out; or the wire may be too light to endure. for more than a few seasons, or the wood it- self be so thin and weak as soon to become detached from the wire. They also are us- ually attached to the tree in a way that calls for a word of caution against leaving them. I refer to the fact of the wire being closely drawn around the branch so that the label may not shake off. If left in this shape the chances are that by the growth of the branch the wire must soon cut through the young bark, and thus cause serious damage, if not amputation of the part eventually. Some forms of good permanent labels oc- cur in the accompanying Figure 41, a to d being suitable for trees and shrubs, and c a stake label for low plants. The first one, «, is a common and satisfactory form if it is well made. It consists of Pine, or Ked t'edar wood, five or six inches long, an inch or move wide, and one-fourth inch or .simie- what less thick, punctured with a hole to receive its wire at about three-fourths of an inch from the end. Copper wire. No. 16, should be used in this and other forms of l)ermancnt labels. With painting this label white and writing the name with a soft, black pencil before the paint becomes dry the name will last well for years. The ne.xt three forms are zinc labels with and without wires. These styles are in some re- spects superior to wooden labels for per- manent use. They are cheaper and are prac- tically indestructible. Bestof all the writing on them with a common lead pencil will if exi)osed to the weather last for a life-time. No painting or other preparation is neces- sary beyond roughing the surface a little by exposure to salt water, so as to take a strong mark from the pencil. The forms c and '/, consisting of merely a tapering strip of zinc, about an inch wide at the broad end, and six inches long, are secured to the branch, the first by the simplest manner possible of coiling the narrow end two or three times around the branch, the other by returning the end through a hole about the middle of the label. The zinc label // has the single mlvantage that by having llie wire shorter or longer it can be attached to • Copyright, 188!, Popular Gardening PubUshlngCo. branches of any size. Refuse .scrap zinc will make such labels by the hundred at al- most no cost. In attaching lal)els to trees the important point already hinted at of providing for the future growth of the branch must not be neglected. Style c provides for this for a number of years through the coil 0|)eninK as the growth advances. In the other cases it is only nece.ssary to have the loop of such size that numy years will pass before it can become filled out. Of course in time it be- comes necessary to provide a greater length of wire or size of loop. The stake label <■ for low plants is a com- mon form with the addition of a notch at the side to prevent heaving by the frost in winter. A good size to have is from an FIQ. 42. A VINE AND SHRUBBERY WALK. inch to an incli and a half square, and from a foot to half as much more in length. White Pine without sap is usually used, but Ked Cedar is more durable. Such la- bels should be planed, well painted with white lead and linseed oil, and have the name in lead pencil or black paint. Some gardeners emjiloy a light stake as an up- right and then use a zinc label for the name, tacking this on the top of the stake. Selections OF Ornamental Growths. WOODI' In the hardy trees, shrubs and vines are to be found some of the finest and most satisfactory forms of natural garden beauty. As a class they possess a dignity of character not common to any other forms of growth. Planted as single specimens, or in small or large groups, or to cover Viist areas, and the fitness of trees and like woody growths, for contributing nia.jestic beauty to the landscape cannot he ques- tioned, so long as sufficient openness is pre- served to the surroundings for well showing off their forms and charms. With the greatest degree of propriety, therefore, they may always be employed as ma.1or features in the planting of any place of sufficient size to accommodate their development, a thing not as well to be said of most other forms of useful and ornamental growths. .Starting out to make a selection of woody growths for fnrni.shing a place, a matter of first importance is to gain an adequate idea of the large variety of materials at our com- mand. In this it may truly be said that all the world, in corresponding latitudes, contrib- utes. The very fact that we may have in our gardens actual representatives of the growths common to other foreign lands, even to the antipodes, should serve to render the planting of our i)laces the more interest- ing. It is eu.sy indeed to have a .lapanese, Chinese, British. Siberian, etc.. etc., branch of the garden by the use of hardy gi'owths alone, say nothing of the chance to de- velop this idea as applying even to tropical lands by the aid of the glasshouse range. Not only is the great variety aftorded by the different natural species of hardy trees, etc., to be taken into account in making se- lections, but the improved varieties of these obtained by accident and through culture. numbering far up in the hundreds, arc ((uite as imi)ortant to be considered. We find for example no material in Nature so extremely striking to the eye as an im- ])roved Purple-leaved Beech, a Cut-leaved (Jak, a Variegated Cornelian Cherry, and many others. No one indeed can enter up- on a full examination of the sub.iect of material and the varied lieauty afforded in different forms, sizes, habits and colors of foliage and Howers without being impressed with the fact of the too common meagerness of assortments employed in the average grounds of the people. As between the two familiar forms of or- namental growths,trees aiidshrubs,too little regard is yet paid by planters to the peculiar value of the shrubs. This is especially the case as regards their fitness for °fc^ embellishing grounds of limited area. 'T= In beauty of form and foliage they T equal the larger trees. Most of them V' in addition to other merits produce an abundance of flowers of great beauty and sweetness, and in the dif- ferent species yield a succession throughout the season, while the ever- green kinds are attractive both in summer and winter. As a rule all the shrubs grow easily, and after trans- planting develop a full measure of beauty in much less time than is re- quired by trees. In good soil they take hold quickly, and in a few years show a development of beauty and charac- ter scarcely excelled in after years, though they may increase much in size. On this and yet other accounts I am always free to recommend a liberal use of the flowering and other shrubs in planting both large and small places. In deciding upon the trees, shrubs, etc., to be used, a matter of prime importance is to gain an idea of the size they respective- ly will reach in time. If there is space for a Lilac or Purple Fringe tree,for example, an Elm or Walnut requiring many times the space should not be chosen. The same point affects also the distance apart at which to plant. For this reason in bringing be- fore my readers lists of hardy planting ma- terial I have thought it desirable to indicate B " C " D " F Slu-illis G H " Fly. II. /,«lji/.s' 0/ Varitiux Funns. comparative sizes by the use of letters of the alphabet as follows: A Indicates Trees, 00 feet and t'pwards High. lit) In m feet high, 15 to ;» B to l.'i ,5 to !l !l Id l.l r, to 11 1 to S I indicates that the kind may be kept somewhat reiiiiccd in Hize by |iiunin)?. J indicates sliglit tenckTiie.s.s in the North, espec- ially when youug. It should, however, be understood that such indications as to size can only be ac- cepted as approximately correct, for varia- tions of soil, climate and treatment have a telling effect in causing variations of size. In the next issue I will begin an enumer- ation of desirable shrubs, etc., arranged into various clas.ses to facilitate selection. {To be continued next month.) 88 POPULAR GARDENING. January, Statesmen as Botanists and Horti- culturists. " Do public men know or care much about botany or your garden ? " a New York Star reporter recently asked William R. Smith, Superintendent of the Botanic Gardens at Washington. " That's a question," he replied, " that can be answered in several ways. To most of them the science is a sealed book. They only know the garden as a convenient flower bank to draw on when their wives give dinner parties, or want to fix up for recep- tions, or their sweethearts need a few Pansles for remembrance. Of course there's no sym- pathy between such propensities and mine. " But there are exceptions, no doubt ? " "Oh, yes, and some very distinguished ones. Some public ni en have excellent tastes and are experts in botany. Mr. Sumner was a great enthusiast; he ran to trees, and was about the most intelligent man on the subject I ever met in public life. He used to tell me that vchen traveling he would peer out of the car windows by the hour on the lookout for beautiful trees. He would gaze as lovingly as a fond parent on that old Italian Beech that stood so long east of the Capitol, and what an apostrophe he paid it in one of his speeches ! The last enjoyment I had with him, shortly before he died, was in visiting a favorite Elm of his on Boston Common. Senator Ingalls, of Kansas, a very dilettante gentleman in his tastes, also i-uns to trees, and is a most devoted student of arboriculture. Some of the most vakiable suggestions about distributing plants in the West come from him. " Mr. Fessenden, of Maine, was an ardent apostle all through his long public life. I remember that his wife had a Sweet Verbena in their home in Maine of which she was very fond. She watched it tenderly as a child, and Mr. Fessenden shared the feeling so thoroughly that for thirteen years he would journey home from Washington to take up the plant in the autumn, and make another trip in the springtime to set it out. No pressure of public business could make him forget that Ver- bena. It was really a paternal devotlou. " Senator James A. Pearce, of Mary- land, was one of the most cultivated bot- m'/mm.' A Cucumher Forcing flottsc. anists ever in Congress. Scarcely a day passed that he did not drop in on me to watch the growth of some favorite plant or some new experiment, and his ideas were always scientific and valuable. And then there was B Gratz Brown, a vei")' warm lover of flowers and thorough master of their culti- vation. During all the time he was in the Senate I don't believe he missed a day at the garden, and we would chat for hours when he felt in the humor. "There's another botanist in Congress, a most ardent disciple, and I know the name will surprise you — Mi\ Holman, of Indiana. No one has been in Congress since I can re- member, and that's a long time, with a more hearty and intelligent love for the garden. He is a fi-equent visitor, and you can see from his conversation that he watches every new phase of the science as keenly as he does the money bags of the treasury. It seems to be a mental exhilaration for him to commune with these curious plants from all over the world, and study their hidden life. He is quite as famiiiar with the botan- ical names and the habits of plants and flowers as most professional botanists. He picked it up as a recreation, and his spare time is nearly all devoted to it. " Sam Cox is a flrst-class botanist. He is a walking cyclopfedia on every subject covered by books. If any phase of a new subject is Introduced, Cox wiU know enough of some kindred subject to give him the key to the situation, and it's really incredible how soon he can infomi himself. Now in botany, for Instance, he will strike a snag some afternoon that he didn't know anything about, but the next morning he'll come around with his mental channel all bridged out. He can learn more in shorter time than anv man I ever saw." A Winter and Spring Cucumber House. The question is often put, says a writer in Gardening Illustrated, as to what is the best form and arrangement to adopt for a house to produce good Cucumbers at the times above-mentioned; we therefore give an illustration of a section of a house ad- mirably adapted in every way to the pur- pose in view. It is 7 feet wide, 10 feet high at the back, and 4 feet high in the front— the length is, of course, optional — and should face due south, and be, if possible, sheltered from the north and east winds, but not by anything that will in any way obstruct the light. A house of these dimensions gives an ample roof area or training surface for either Cucumbers or Melons. Three rows of hot-water pipes are shown in the plan, and this quantity, though it may appear large, will not be found too much in severe winters, for it takes a large amount of heat- ing surface to keep up high temperatures at such times without making the pipes hotter than they ought to be. Each row of pipes should be furnished with a stop valve, and in mild weather the front row may be turned off, as, being near- est to the plants, It is more likely to cause injury than the others should the pipes get too hot at any time. The ventilation is ef- fected as shown at A and B in the plan. So marked have been the results that we have plowed up about half that part which was left in grass. — College Report. Orchards in Sod— Experiments at the IVIichigan Agricultural College. Permanent sod is an injury to the orch- ard. This has been proved in the exper- ience of nearly every successful orchardlst. It is forcibly illustrated in the Instance of the old College orchard. In the earlier experiments conducted by Dr. Beal the same fact was emphasized. For some years he kept a part of the trees in sod; others were cultivated thoroughly, while still others were cultivated at vary- ing distances from the body of the tree. Even as early as 1874 he found that " trees in grass made less growth, looked yellow in foliage, and bore smaller fruit and appar- ently less of it." In 187.5 he observed that " the evidences look more and more strongly every year against the propriety of leaving trees, in our section, in grass. They have stood the severe winters no better ; they have borne no better ; the apples are .smal- ler ; the trees grow more slowly, and more have died than of the cultivated ones. Something New in Verbenas. That improvement in the Verbena which admits of the growing of deep blues, scar- lets, white and other colors quite true from seed has been supplemented by an improved T)ie New Dwarf VeiheiM. form of growth that is quite as constant. We refer to Verbena hybrida compata nana, illustrated herewith, and which appears for the first time, and as a variety that repro- duces Itself very true from seed. The habit of this Verbena is bushy and compact, as shown in our engraving, instead of long jointed and spreading like the or- dinary sorts. This should prove a welcome addition to our garden flowers, for who does not prefer compact, sturdy plants which snbstantlallj' support themselves, to straggling ones branching in all directions. The branches, according to our German correspondent, David Sachs, of Quedlin- burg, the weU-kuowu seedsman, measure scarcely half the length of those of the old kind, are of short, vigorous habit, and gather themselves into a compact bush of only 5 inches in height, which is literally covered with beautiful umbels of flowers. Repeated endeavors have been made to obtain compact Verbenas, but hitherto with more or less doubtful results; but the opin- ion of competent men seems to be that this sort is more perfect and constant than any former attempts at compact Verbenas. 518. The Culture of Peppermint. The crop is raised on low, mucky gi'oimd. The land is plowed in the spring. It is then laid off in fur- rows 18 inches apart, and sets, portions of old plants, are planted closely together in the row. This is done early in April. The roots are trans- planted every other year. The roots that are planted this year, after the crop is gathered, will be transplanted in every other row for next year's crop. The first year's crop is always the best, because the plant is then freest from weeds. Usually they are allowed to run only two yeai-s, after which the ground is plowed. When the plants have grown to about H^z feet in height they ripen. The harvest begins usually in the last of August. It is cut like clover, with a cradle, and raked into cocks, where it is allowed to wilt a little before it is taken to the distillery. Distillation continues until the last of October. The yield, on au average, is about 30 pounds to the a"crc in a good season. 499. Grapes in Florida. Northern grown Grape-rines will thrive in this State. Whether they will do as well as home grown stock is a question not yet settled. The presumption is tliftt tlu'\' will not. The climate is so different that till' change must affect them somewhat. Still thousands of Northern grown Grape-vines have been planted in the State and are dding well. I prefer good one-year vines to ordinary two- year vines.— W. C. Steele, flaiiider, either of which will cause the leaves to drop. Sponge off the leaves and stems carefully with soajiy water and then keep in a cool, airy situation. From now to the middle of March water sparingly, keeping the soil only Just moist.— C. E. P. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART; DO THOU BUT THINE."— Unaos. Vol. III. ZFEBieXJ.A.E.'S', 1888. O Winter! 0 Winter! ruler of the Inverted year, Thy scattered hair with sleet-lllte ashes tilled. Thy breath congealed upon thy lips, thy cheeks Fringed with a beard made white with other snows Than those of age; thy forehead wrapped in clouds, A leafless branch thy sceptre, and thy throne A sliding car indebted to no wheels, But urged hy stonns along its slippery way; 1 love thee, all iiniovely as thou seemst. And dreaded as thou art. A PLANTATION Of Century plants has been started in Orange Co., Florida, for growing fibre. FoH Co.MiuNiNti (irnament with utility one could go much farther and do worse than to plant a group of Siberian Crab Apples on a large lawn. Handsope in habit, in flower and in fruit. Apples Abroad. Recent cable advices from Liverpool and Glasgow report a demand in those markets for Baldwins and Russets, and that an improvement in prices may l>e looked for shortl.v. Baldwins aie selling at Liverpool at 16s. 6d. to 17s. Kd. per barrel. Frozen Plant.s. Mr. Peter Henderson has made the statement that in his experience with thous- ands of frozen plants he has tried all manner of experiments, and found no better method than to get them out of the freezing atmosphere to some place warm enough to be just above the point of freezing; or, if there are too many to do that, get up the Are as rapidly as possible, and raise the temperatdre. Public Parks and Public PE.tcE. A Vienna newspaper supports a suggestion for the per- manent closing of Trafalgar Square, London, to mob meetings by laj-ing it out as a public garden. The propensity to convert any large flagged place into a forum is irresistable, remarks this journal, but flower-beds, grass plots and little railings are a great hindrance to mass meetings. Red-coated Geraniums would clear the square more eftectuall.v than red-coated guardsmen, and there would probably be less sympathy for a crowd proceeding to trample down flowers than for one attacking policemen. The sight of de- vastated flower beds would impress the horror of mob violence more forcibly on cultivated minds than scores of policemen's helmets. Look out for Traveling Grafters. Ac- cording to '/j. C. Fairbanks of Traverse Cit.v, Mich., a set (jf scalawag grafters imposed on some of his neighboi'S a year ago. The.v claimed to hail frf)m Ohio, and carried plenty of fine samples of fruit. These they showed to tarmers and had no difti- culty in taking ordere for setting grafts of the same varieties, s(j claimed, at a price of eight cents per graft. Tliey came in the spring in full work- ing capacity, and wherever the.v got a chance at a tree or an orchard the.v made it count ftu- themselves. In one case the}' set HO grafts in one Crab Apple tree, at a total cost of S4.KU, an anio\iiit that wimld have furnished the owner lit good Apple trees at 2.5 cents each. And they were conimim Apple grafts too, when it has long since Ijeen demonstrated that such grafting is a failure. At the outside three cents a graft is a good price to \iuy Un- doing reliable grafting, an-thing about the plant from its long, slender, grass- like stem to its small, delicate, fragrant, 90 POPULAR GARDENING. February, white flowers, are the very perfection of grace and neatness. The roots being small, require but little pot room or soil, and the vines shoot up rapidly, clinging to any slight support given in the form of twine, wire, or trellis. Plants are easily produced from seed, or they can be had very cheaply of almost any florist. I do not think the merits of this neat little climber are fully appreciated, by those who take delight in cultivating window plants, as it is especially adapted to this purpose. WhUe many plants of a similar habit be- come large, coarse and heavy when fully developed, the Smilax never reaches svich a stage, but is always light and graceful, no matter how strong and vigorous the growth. It is cultivated to considerable extent by most florists, the ladies being their principal customers, for Smilax is splendid for decora- tions, and for giving the final touches to a lady's toilet. Although the vine appears to be very deli- cate and fragile it is quite the reverse, for the stems are almost as tough as iron wire and the leaves remain fresh without wilting for some time after being separated from the parent plant, even in a warm atmosphere. existence, and in order to have any of the peculiar beauty that a bit of sward is capa- ble of affording, this must be shelved and sloped, so to speak, to save it from being trodden to death. An indirect advantage also presents itself in the use of these miniature shrub plateaus. The striking difference in their appearance and of that of the coping-edged shrub bor- ! ders first described, is so marked as to afford 1 a variety in the embellishments, which would, by employing solely the one or the other style, be quite impossible to possess. And yet we must be slow in recommending the use of these elevations, except in such Improving the School-Yard. Examples of good school-yard gardening, as intimated last month, are not very abun- dant. This will be the only excuse needed for presenting as our second illustration m this series a modified form of a vei-y fine school yard which the writer met a few years ago in the City of London, England. For although the subject of our illustration was a gravel-surfaced town yard, it contains one or more features which might well enter into much work of this kind in town or country, and that too, whether grass or gravel serves to cover the surface of the yard. The school yard illustrated in the present instance contains several striking features of horticultural adornment. The most con- spicuous of these perhaps are the borders of flowering shrubs and plants which occupy a position next to the boundary in the front part of the yard, and also at one place against the school building. These borders are in the main about flfteen feet in width and together more than two-hundred feet in length. They are defined at the front by a low stone or brick coping, as a protection to the growths within and to divide the culti- vated surface of the border from the grav- elled surface without. For the sake of economy a substitude might in similar work be provided, by the use of sections of Cedar or Chestnut wood set uprightly in the soil, or even by a low wooden fence. The shrubs and plants occupying these borders are chiefly of hardy kinds, and such as yield a profusion of flowers throughout the entire season with little attention. About the only care a border of the kind requires after once it is started is to till the soil, manure it annually (the best season being in the autumn), and to keep the shrubs and plants healthy and within bounds by periodi- cal pruning, dividing, etc. Next in prominence to the cultivated bor- der, if indeed they do not exceed them, are the narrow elevated areas with slopes, shown at the termination of the borders against the line on both sides of the yard, about midway front and rear. The one to the right is long and narrow, the other circular in outline. These raised beds are sur- mounted with shrubs on a grassy surface, and the slopes also are grass covered. The idea which called them into use is a very forcible one as applying to town schools, attended perhaps by near 1 ,000 pupils each, it being the same also which calls for gravel instead of grass throughout such yards. Reference is had to the fact that the grass on the general surface has no fair chance of A FINELY-EMBELLISHED SCHOOL YARD. localities as are provided with a free use of hydrant water for keeping them sufficiently watered in dry weather. In any other yards the severe droughts to which we are so fre- quently subject would be liable to prove directly disastrous to their beauty. Such elevations depend not only on a good color of grass and shrubs for their beauty, but as the slopes and angles should be very well graded and defined, the frequent use of the lawn mower to keep the grass surface shapely is essential to the best appearance. In the front right-hand section of the yard, as shown by the illustration, is another feature of adornment that should be de- scribed. This is the circular object near the shrub border and which corresponds in its outline vnth the front of the shrub border, at this point laid out on a curve. This feat- ure may be said to embody the idea of both of the main ones heretofore described. First there is a low circular coping, uniform vrtth the one which defines the shrub borders, but which, in this instance, is filled to the top with earth and a surface of sward. Cen- trally from this sward rises a second cop- ing similar to the first, but somewhat higher, and this serves to contain a bed of bright flowers and plants, such as Geraniums, Coleus, and the like, which stand out from a surface of soil, rounded slightly upward from the top of the coping. It is not difficult to perceive that the design here as elsewhere was to protect the horticultural adornments from accidental or other injury at the hands of the children. The other features of this well designed school-yard, consist chiefly of half a dozen shade trees and several screens of strong growing shrubs, all of which are planted on the common level. One cannot contemplate a school-yard of this kind, studying its varied delightful parts, without being impressed with the gain that would be derived by the presence of many similarly improved school-yards throughout our country, on the minds and characters of the young. They would cost some money in their construction, a few hundred dollars at the outside for each per- haps, and then a small annual maintenance fund. But what is that for any one of our school districts representing valuations in real estate aggregating hundreds of thou- sands of dollars often. Successful Grape Grafting. BY DR. G. STATMAN, LEAVENWORTH, KANSAS. But few Grape growers appear to fully understand this subject, judging from the many failures constantly reported. As al- most every one who is interested in new high priced Grapes wishes to realize from them as soon as possible, we will give our very successful method of procedure in grafting such and all vines. Much of what we present has never been published before, the process described being the outcome of more than thirty years' experience in graft- ing the Grape by every known method. As new Grapes of promise appear we pro- cure one or more vines of each, according to our opinion of merit. The first cost is a small matter if it proves of value, and no great loss if not, it being worth something to know that fact from experience. We plant in well prepared rich soil, give them good care and cultivation, and train up one good cane from each plant to a stake. In the fall, after the first hard, kill- ing frost, this is cut back to two buds, and it is covered over when cold weather sets in. The wood is cut up at once before it dries a particle into lengths of from nine to eleven inches, according to the space be- tween the buds, cutting an inch above a bud at the top. These cuttings are labelled and tied with a willow, or something that will not rot, and are stored away in damp earth or sawdust free from frost. We graft all species and varieties and ages of vines, if vigorous and healthy, with about the same success. There is nothing in the adaptability of one stock over an- other, except some varieties work better and make more enduring vines, as Norton's Virginia and Cynthiana. We commence in the spring after the frost is out and the soil is well settled, and not too wet, and all danger of hard freezing is over. This occurs about a week or ten days before the vines commence to bleed. This period is selected because hard freezing will move the grafts after they are once set unless covered, a danger to be obviated. The first step is to cut the vines off near the ground and clear them and other rub- bish away. A man then digs around the vines about eighteen inches in diameter and ten inches or more deep, cutting off all surface roots. See a in the figure. The earth is taken out clean to the stems, but with care to not injure the stocks where they are to be grafted. A good sharp shoe- maker's knife, soft tow twine, as grocers use, a sharp saw, a strong pruning shears and a light maUet. are also provided. We then assort our wood, taking all that is the size of a lead pencil and over for grafting in the ground ; the stronger the better, for old vines. The grafts are wrapped up in a damp cloth to prevent dry- ing, and with the tools are put in a basket. If the vines are not over three-fourths of an inch in diameter, cut them off with the shears about eight inches below the sur- face of the ground, at a clean smooth place, if any. If larger we saw them off. Now take the side of the stock that will make the straightest edge and cut it up from below, sloping on one side to the top of the stock, as shown at a. This slope should be cut true and about one inch and a half long, like in whip-grafting, but not over from one fourth to half an inch deep at the top of the small stocks. Next place 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 91 the knife about one eighth of an inch from the top of the slope, and with the mallet drive it down, cutting a tongue about one inch and a half long. Then take your graft, /) in the engraving, and slope it off on one side and cut a tongue in It, as in whip- grafting. The outside rough bark, if any, from graft and stock, should be taken off. Insert the graft on one side of the stock to niatch the inner bark exactly on the edge of the tongue. If the stock is large put a graft in on the opposite side also. The graft rightly in position push it down as tight as you can without breaking. Then wrap firmly with twine, which will leave the work appearing as in the Figure 0. The soil should be packed tight around the graft (particularly the bottom) by tramping on it carefully and tinuly so as to not move the graft, filling up to the top bud. Then stick a small stake at the graft to mark the place and for tying the young shoots to. Let it be remembered always that success in Grape grafting depends : 1st— I7po7) the frcxh cfituJilian and laujth of the grafts. 2nd — The sniuiihiexs 0/ the wood and lyiids. 'Ar(\—The perfeetinn of work. Should the grafts not be as fresh as if just taken off the vines, and of sufficient length, they will dry out and will neither callous, throw out roots, or unite with the stocks. In case the stocks are of a character not admitting of grafting at the proper depth, then graft them higher up and fill and bank up around them to the top bud. This, however, will not be as successful, or the vines as good, as the deep grafted ones, because the union will be less perfect, and the roots too shallow to bear severe winters. With vines that are properly set and culti- vated this fault need never occur. In gi'afting small vines, either in the ground or out of it, we whip and tongue graft them in the same manner with grafts of the same length. No attention whatever Is paid to the buds or the size of the grafts except to use the larger scions on the larger stocks. To try to match them on both sides is useless, and time wasted. We have in this article given no specula- tive theory, but facts based on many years of experience in grafting all sizes of wood, gregate of from 100 to LW feet of wood. These vines are well united, firm and strong almost as before grafted, and will in an- other season or so bear a full crop. The stock prepart'd —dotted lines showing the part including surface roots renwred The scion vreimred. c. The union, showing ma7iner of tying, and banking up, at h ft. loell as the slat SUCCESSFUL GRAPE QRAFTING ILLUSTRATED. from two inches in length with a single bud, to a foot long with half a dozen buds, and on vines from one to twenty years old. With the conditions faithfully fulfilled, at least 9.5 per cent will grow on either young or old vines. Last year 98 per cent grew, and in very many instances made an ag- Tomato Tests in 1887. R. W. HARQADINE, KENT CO.. DEL. We planted last season on June 1.5th nine varieties of Tomatoes, side by side, solely to test the earliness of the different varieties. The seeds had been sown out-doors in April and the planting management and other conditions were exactly the same. The varieties were Livingston's, New Beauty, Perfection, and Living.ston's Favorite, Cardinal, Optimus. Essex Hybrid, Mikado or Turner Hybrid, Early Market Champion, and E.xtra Early Trophy. The difference was very slight in favor of any one variety as to time of ripening of first specimens, and this difference was in favor of the dark red or purple varieties, such as Essex Hybrid, Mikado and Champion. None of the varieties tested can lay any just claim to earliness as market varieties except Extra Early Trophy. While this did not begin to ripen single specimens earlier than most of the other varieties, it did ripen a large crop early in the season and this characteristic gives a Tomato its chief value to the market gardener. The variety men- tioned seems to belong to the old Gen. Grant type, which disappeared some years ago, owingtoarust which induced a weak growth of vine. Though what passed for seeds of Gen. Grant continued to be sold by some seedsmen. They were not the true variety, but for the most part were the old Early Smooth Red variety. The size of Extra Early Trophy is quite small and many specimens, a characteristic to a great degree of all true early market varieties. We think, however, it is a valua- ble acquisition to the market gardener and deserves a more extended trial. It certainly is the most promising early variety we have tested since the Canada Victor was intro- duced, some fifteen years ago or more. A veteran horticulturist lately said that " enough new Tomatoeshad been introduced, each claiming to be ten days earlier than any other variety, to make the sea- sons meet and give us ripe ones every day in the year, but the fact remains the same that the perfect early Tomato lia-s not appeared. Every year the query arises, " What is the best variety of Tomato for early market and for general market or for packing?" Here- toforeljivingston's Perfection, though not so early in ripening a full crop as some of the inferior varie- ties, has met the requirements of both the market gardener and the packer better than any other, and we have without hesitation recommended it. But last year it showed a weakness of vine and a tendency to the disease known as black rot, now quite pre- valent and which was generally so fatal to the Acme and later on to the Paragon. The new- Optimus Tomato, apparently a near relative. of the last named .shows the same tendency. From our own experience and careful inquii-y among growers and packers of To- matoes ill this the great Tomato growing region of the E.ist, we would say that Livi7igston's Favorite and New Beauty and the C'ardinal at present are the safest varie- ties, all having sufficiently heavy foliage and good keeping (pialities. An Improved Method of Manure Heating. W. r. WAKING, BELKNAP CO., N. U. It has occurred to me to describe an improved hot-bed for various purposes, and of which I enclose a rough .sketch. It is virtually a manure heated greenhouse. Cross-section of Manure Heated House. In its construction, an excavation was made as for a regular hot-bed, three and a half feet deep, the length governed by the number of sash to be used. For width I found that in the use of 6 feet by H feet sash an eleven foot house was the best, giving only enough slant to run the water off readily. The sides of the pit were cut straight and square. Bricks were laid every four feet alongside on the bottom, as a foundation for the studs; these were 2x4- inch scantling four feet long. Double walls of the same height, having an air space of two inches, were built upon them, rough boards below the surface, and matched stuff above. A cap board for the wall of the same angle as the sash was provided. The lower ends of the sash come down over this somewhat as sho%vn in my drawing. Rafters of 2 X 3 stuff are laid at a distance apart to accommodate the width of sash, which are laid on and secured with hooks and screw eyes, several sash on each side being left for ventilation through sliding down from the top. These are provided with fasteners se- curely against being blown off. Except at the ventilators, the cracks between the sash are closed on the outside with lath. The exposed wall, above the surface, is banked to the top with manure. Inside a two-foot walk runs through the middle and between inch-board walls that form the sides of the beds. They are three feet high, with studs held in place by strips fastened to the outer walls. The ridge should, for economy of heating, be kept so low as only to allow for head room, the roof having rather a flat pitch, but not so flat as to allow the water to drip Inside, as this excess of moisture is a source of mildew and rot, especially in growing Ijettuce. To heat this house manure is used as for an ordinary hot-bed, packed in two or two and a half feet in depth, and covered with six inches of good soil. For getting in the ma- nure and soil the sash are laid aside. During all cold nights I keep the house covered with mats, as in ordinary hot-bed management. With accumulating the .sun heat, in addition to the fermenting manure, it is easy to maintain a heat of 45 toH5'at night and of course a considerably higher temperature during the day. Such a house does not involve very much more labor in the making than the old style does, while on the whole it is ea.sier managed. The special advantage is that while in the midst of cold weather it is risky to have the 92 POPULAR GARDENING. February, ordinary frame open to plant, pot or water, causing injurious delay, perhaps. In this we can at any time do the work required and often succeed in getting to earlier market. Besides vegetables, flowering plants of all kinds may be readily grown for market or for home or outside use during the summer. Planting and Care of Young Apple Orchards. SAMUEL NQLLER, BL0FFTON, MO. It has been said that if all the Apple trees set out in the past thirty years had lived and borne well the Apples could not all have been used. But we know they did not, nor will many that are hereafter set, unless things are better managed than in the past. In the first place, rather than buy your trees of a tree agent, even if you believe him to be honest, go to the nursery and see that trees and varieties to suit you are got. Two- year old trees are the most suitable, with low heads, stout and healthy. Before get- ting the trees, have the ground ready, and that ready is of great importance. The earth should be plowed, following vrith a subsoU plow, for loosening the earth 18 or •H) inches deep. If not fit to yield 7.5 bushels of Corn per acre, manure it to make it so. For fall planting have the ground well pulverized; if for spring setting, it should be prepared the fall before. Lay out rows 32 feet each way, dig holes two feet across and one foot deep. The trees, after the ground settles, should stand an inch or two deeper than they did in the nursery. Wait with planting until the ground will pulver- ize nicely. Fill the ground well in among the roots, using the hands if necessary to get them well spread out. Firm the earth well over the roots with the foot, fllUng in the last with loose ground. Use all surface soil to fill in the hole. With the planting well done, if the trees were sound, there should not one in a hun- dred fail to grow. The tree can now be given it« right start in life, in the way it should grow, by using a sharp knife and good judgment in heading back the branches in proper shape. Ever after they should be attended with a knife, and the thumb and finger; the latter mainly by pinching the shoots while small. Crops of Potatoes, Corn or Beans can without harm be grown between the trees, for five or six years, if as much fertilizing matter is returned to the soil as the crops take out. But grow no part of a crop nearer than six feet fi-om the trees; and even as close as six feet is not advisable. Keep the borers out of the trees, loosen the groiind around them as far as the roots may extend, and it will not be many years until there will be fi-uit. When they begin to bear, the ground can be set with clover, which can be mowed twice during the sum- mer and left to rot on the ground, K the hay was to be hauled off, manure must be put on the ground to make up for the tax on the soil. An orchard started vrith good trees, on well prepared land and thus cared for, can defj' the driest summer if the ground is kept loose under the trees. Young trees must be protected from mice and rabbits. Should anyone choose to raise his own trees, he will do well to take the following plan. Select seeds from sound apples grown on trees of a hardy and thrifty variety; and if of our native Crab Apples it may be an advantage. Sow these in the fall, cover- ing an inch deep, not too thick. Cultivate well the following summer. In the fall take them up and heel in. In the spring, instead of cutting the roots into pieces, use a whole root to each graft cutting off at the crown and a trifle of the tap root. Grow them in good soil for two years, when they vrill be superior trees, and It planted and properly cared for as indicated in the fore- going, an orchard that will last a generation should be the outcome. It is important to only grow such varieties as succeed in one's neighborhood. Here in latitude 38.30 we hear of the Ben Davis, ten years planted and well cared for, failing the past summer, the cause being attributed to the two last severe winters. The climate here is a trying one, as we have such ex- tremes so suddenly. I have seen the mer- cury at zero at sunrise one morning, and the grasshoppers jumping thirty-two hours after under the lofty cliffs on the banks of the Missouri. This is what, in my opinion, does the mischief. While farther north they have snow that protects low plants, here we get it as low as 20 or 30° below zero, with but an inch or two of snow on the ground. The fear of planting too many Apple trees is groundless, so fong as this is done some- thing as suggested. The population in- creases fast, besides people now consume but half the Apples that they will in later years when they become better educated. Plum Culture in Western New York. At a recent meeting of the New York State Farmers' Institute, our correspondent, Mr. Virgil Bogue, of Albion, N. Y., offered the following practical remarks on this topic: Plum culture has been neglected perhaps the most of all the fruits we grow. We pro- fess to be engaged in cultivating the trees, by furnishing moisture, food, and other re- quirements for development, but are we in fact doing the best we know how ? Too often the answer must be. No. Every- one should know when he sees his trees suffering from drought to an extent that the leaves are dropping prematurely, end the fruit drying up, that it could have been avoided by plowing and cultivating suflS- cient to keep a good moist surface over the roots, as is the condition of a well-worked summer fallow. No one would plant com in an unctiltivated soil and expect a crop. Much less should he expect fruit from an orchard under like treatment. Plum trees, being governed by the same natural law as other trees, we should culti- vate with a view of keeping them in as healthy and well-developed state as possible. This can best be done by thorough tillage, and by spreading on the orchard, in the early winter, what manure is to be used. The best time to trim the Plum is in the spring, between the last heavy freezes and the breaking of the buds. It should never be done later, as a tree cannot be injured more by any one treatment than to trim when the leaves are the size of mice ears. Trimming in the fall or early winter Is, for this fruit, the next worse time, as it exposes to the severe elements of the weather the inner parts of the tree. The life of the tree, which is secreted in minute glands near the exterior, is easily killed by freezing, and the scars made by pruning are really much larger than the outside appearance would indicate. Where there are too many such spots for the tree to cleanse it becomes diseased and rotten- hearted, or hollow, as is often the case. In the way of culture, plow reasonably deep, as early in the spring as the land will allow. Frequently cultivate or harrow until the tree has flnished extending its branches, which is usually the fore part of August; then seed to rye. This will soon cover the ground and form a good winter protection, and at the same time will improve the land under the natural law that seasons following winters in which the ground is covered most of the time with snow are more productive than those following open winters. The trees should be banked up with dirt late in the faU to protect them from mice. This earth should be removed from them early in the spring. All trees have their diseases or insects, that are ready to infest them as opportunity presents. Among those of the Plum is for one the black knot. This can be remedied by cutting off the woody formation as it flrst appears, and by burning the insect. The curculio,which has stung the fruit for many years, appears to be leaving our sec- tion. To such an extent is this true that we have no further fears of them. They seem to have been sent for the purpose of teaching, if possible, the necessity of thin- ning the fruit on the trees, for it is an ad- mitted fact that if the tender varieties of Plum are allowed to bear all they would, without being thinned by insects or by hand, they would soon exhaust themselves and die. This, notwithstanding it is empowered, like all stone fruits, with a great facility for searching for its food, and will thrive well in the nursery on land that is exhausted from raising other kinds of trees. MIna Lobata and Its Culture for Bloom. L. W. GOODELL. DWIGHT, MASS. This new annual climber, introduced from Germany last year, I find to be a re- markably rapid grower, with an abundance of foliage which resembles that of the Ivy- leaved Cypress Vine (Ipomcea Q. hederm- foliii). It is indeed a relative of the last named, but entirely different in its flowers. The flowers are tubular and produced in erect forked racemes, and are at first as buds, bright-red, but change from orange- red to yellowish-white when in full bloom. I notice several statements from those who tried this flower last year, in which failure to get it to flower are reported. My own experience with it was much the same. I started about twenty plants in March, transplanted to cold-frames in April, and planted out the last of May. They made a very rapid growth of fifteen or twenty feet, but no flower buds appeared until the last of September, when the tips of the vines were well covered with them, only to be killed by frost a few days later. Now, it is a fact that this plant blooms and seeds freely in Germany, and there is no reason why it should not in this country if properly treated. The failure to bloom is, no doubt, owing to improper treatment of the young plants. Haage & Schmidt, the introducers, have recently sent out these additional instructions : " In order to enjoy the beauty of this plant as early in the season as possible, success depends on cultivating the seedlings in the following manner. Having been potted off singly in small thumb pots in light, sandy soil, and being well rooted through (pot-bound), they ought to be shifted to large pots, using of course the same light soil. In these pots the plants must remain until they show their flower buds, hardening them off in the meantime ; once they show these the plants may be planted oxit in the open ground, but also in light sandy soil, where they will continue to produce their flowers freely. If the plants are cultivated in very rich soil it may hap- pen that they will attain enormous dimen- sions and produce a most luxuriant foliage, but hardly any flowers until very late." It is to be hoped these instructions will enable us to flower it this year, for it is cer- tainly, in other respects, a fine addition to annual climbers. Its history is quite re- markable. It was introduced into Europe from Mexico about fifty years ago, but for some unknown reason, perhaps because it failed to mature seeds in England, where it is supposed to have been grown, it became lost and nothing more was heard of it until re-introduced by Messrs. Haage & Schmidt. i888 POPULAR GARDENING. 93 The New Black Currant — Crandall. This new Ctirraiit, which is now for the first time being brought to the attention of the public, seems to possess some remark- ably good qualities. Whether, as the his- tory of the original plant as given by Mr. P. W. CrantiaU of Newton, Kansas, on whose grounds it tirst appeared, might indi- cate, it is a hybrid between the Missouri Yellow fUirrant, Rihcx dunum, and the Cherry Currant, a variety of Rihen rubrum, or not, it certainly seems to be a great re- move from any form of the Missouri Cur- rant of which we have knowledge. The last-named species is well known to vary exceedingly throughout the West, in productiveness, flowers, color, etc. Whether the Craudall is merely a variety without the mixture of any mhrnm blood or not, it is to say the 1 east a fruit such as cannot tail to interest the general fruit grower. Our first impressions con- cerning this variety were gained from the visit of a representative of this journal to the grounds of its dissem- inators, Messrs. Ford & Co., Ravenna, Ohio, during its fruiting season last summer, and from a sample basket of fruit received at this office as a result of that visit. Photo- graphs were also obtained of young bearing plants, branches, etc., and from these the e.xcellent engraving an- nexed,which well portray the variety, were made. The most striking charac- teristics of the Crandall as presented to our attention were its vigorous growth, in this respect being freer in all ways than the common garden Currant ; its great productiveness and the large size of the fruit. As to the latter quality it may be said that berries five-eighths of an inch in diameter are not at all rare, while some may ex- ceed this, and none ordinaril.y get down to the size of com- mon Currants. In color the fruit is bluish black when ripe. Concerning the flavor of the berries, while this may not be very marked in any particular respect, it is yet sufficiently agreeable to as- sure for the variety a rank among our most useful culi- ^ nary fruits, for jams, preserves, etc. From its black color one would quite naturally look for the peculiar, and to many dLsagree- able, flavor of the common Black Currant, but this seems to be entirely lacking. Eaten in a fresh state the taste of the fruit re- minded us of the Gooseberry. The berries have but few seeds, and these not disagree- able to the taste. In its time of ripening the Crandall is a mid-sunmier fruit, being at its best about the first of August. The plant is said to be perfectly hardy, a fact which seemed to be clearly indicated by the vigorous growth that our representative saw in the planta- tion at Ravenna. One valuable quality of the plant is Its immunity to injury from late spring frosts. Notwithstanding a frost in the spring of 1887 throughout Northern Ohio proved disastrous to the fruit crop generally, a plantation of the Crandall sim- ilarly subjected showed not the least bad effects on the crop from frost injury. Hastening the Pea Crop. ^rhe follo^vin^f plan for having early Peas is in voKoe with English ^ardener.s, who are excellent Pea (growers if they arc anything: Two weeks or more can be grained over the curliest outside i)iukinfirs, by sowing the American Wonder under gIass,for the earliest crop, in bo.xcs ()f light rich soil, and transplant as soon as the frames are ready; following by successive sow- ings in frames for later pickings. A gain may also be had by starting a bo.xful in the house and transplanting in the warmest garden corner when safe from frost. The above variety seems sj o tje particulai'ly well adapted for forcing. Have [t Ol'VKIGHT SECURED.] IE CRANDALL CURRANT. YOUNG PLANT AND FRUIT. nine inches of good soil over the manure in the frame, and when well manured, deep uiurow drills eighteen inches apart are made. Transplanting yoimg Pea plants is an eas.v matter when rightly and quickly done; shake the soil from the roots, lay them in a single row in the drill two inches apart and cover carefull.v with fine soil. This simple plan has been found to work better than several methods that have been tried, as the strong roots mth their many rootlets are easily preserved, and when carcfull.v planted start into the fresh soil quickly, no ap- preciable check being given. Between the Peas may be had a row of early Lettuce sown at the same time as the Peas, and that grows quickly to a size ready for cutting, pajdng well for the labor involved and not in.i»iring the Peas. Peas after becoming establislied re(]Uire ])lenty of air and water. Using brush as a support will be found as advantageous here as in the field cul- ture. Years ago a line lot of Pea*! were spoiled, owing to being planted in shallow soil o^■er dry, moldy manin-c, which no watering could change. The lesson was well learned and Early Peas have ever since lieen provided with short moist manure into which they can root. Radishes and Their Culture. Amongst garden vegetables none are more widely acceptable than tender, sweet, well-grown Kadisbes, and it is the ambition of e\cry good gardener to get not only a very early supply but a supply more or less steady the year round. Throughout a constant crop of crisp, delicately flavored roots shoidd be the aim. The earliest will be had from a hot-bed or from under some glass protection. It is seldom we grow a crop of Radishes alone, but secure all we want from planting with other crops. One mistake is sowing the seed too thickly. Under such circumstances when the plants come up they are a mat at to]) and bottom, and when tliis is the case useful roots are never formed. Thinning out some of the plants as soon as they can be handled is one way of avoiding this, but it is a wasteful way; the better plan is always to sow thinly. One seed every inch or two will give a nnich liner crop and better results altogether than a close sowing. Many doubtless wonder wh.v their Kadishes do not all attain size, but allowing them to grow too close together is as a rule the cause of this. In making up a special bed for early Radishes, a rather shallow bed of fermenting material is sufficient; about « feet in depth is enough, and (i inches of soil should be put on the top of this. They grow fastest early in the season in a moderately rich sandy mi.xture. The seed should lie sown broadcast, \ery thin, and it should not be covered more than a half an inch deep. The earliest seed may be sown in hot- beds in February, and through- out March seed may be sown along the base of a south wall or in any sheltered sunny spot. Here the rule as t(j thin sfiwing should also be observed; in fact, this must be kept in mind throughout. When the little plants appear at first in the colder months nf spring a slight protection will fa\'or their free growth. A few brunches or the like is all that is needed. From Ai>ril onwards through- out the summer Radishes will <\n most anywhere, their only rc- (luirement-s being a firm, rich, cool soil. Without this, esiieciall.v in summer, the root.s will become hot and .stringy before they are well developeil, and the period ossible. eonlining them to comjiaratively small pots and feeding with liciuid nmnure, soot water imparting a nu)st desirable deep green color to the leaves. 94 POPULAR GARDENING. February, Notes From a Rochester Fruit Farm. BY CHAS. A. GREEN. To-day, December 14, I have planted a lot of Apple, Pear, Plum, and Chestnut trees. It has been a remarkable season, and all hands have been at work out-of-doors up to this date. The Apples and Pears are for a specimen orchard, and embrace one tree each of all the varieties we can get, about 1.50 varieties. These are planted ten feet apart in the rows, with rows 100 feet apart, giving ample space for cultivated crops between. Two men plant 300 trees each day, in well prepared soil. Each tree had a common printed label on when planted. This I removed to-day and attached a zink label, with a narrow end wound around the tree. Zink makes the most enduring and satisfactory label, the writing becoming more and more distinct years after it is written. The wind does not wear it out, it does not rust or fall oil. I purchased 10 pounds of Zink at 8 cents per pound. It cost 60 cents to get it cut into labels, making about 1,000 labels, thus cost- ing about 30 cents per hundred. Not wishing to rely wholly on labels, I record the position of each row and tree in a record book. Fruit growers should keep such a book. They will find it serviceable. After the trees were planted I followed vrith a sharp knife to prune. Some people are particular about the form of heads of trees as they come from the nursery. This is well if the trees are to remain low branched, with no cultivation after coming into bear- ing; but if it is intended to cultivate the ground after bearing the branches are too low as ordinarily trimmed in nurseries. Therefore, from these trees that I planted I cut off all branches but the one most nearly upright, leaving simply a straight whip, then cut back the leader a little it too high. If this pruning is not done at planting it must be done in after years, which is a loss to the tree; the longer delayed the greater the loss. An orchard planted ten years ago has been continually trimmed, cutting out the lower branches to get them out of the way of teams. Even it they do not appear to be too low the first ten years they will become too low later, for when heavy laden with fruit the limbs are weighted down low, and, growing in that position, remain there. All who plant fruit trees should bear this fact in mind. The top of the straight, whip-like tree as planted contains numerous buds which will quickly form another top higher up than the top removed, and as there are fewer buds to push into growth the top is formed rapidly. Please note this fact, that at plant- ing pruning is not imperative. All cutting can be omitted and the trees live. There- fore, if you doubt your ability to make a new top do not cut it until later, when some skilled person can do it. Peach trees are nearly always cut back to a whip at planting, but other trees are often neglected, the cause for heroic cutting not being so apparent, and not always being necessary. Ndt Trees. We are planting Chestnut and Black Walnuts, believing that there is money in such planting. While the nuts are the main inducement I do not doubt that the timber will give a good profit. We desire to make our farm take care of us in our old age. I can see no better way to make it profitable than to plant fruit orchards, Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and nuts. But little planting of nuts is done here. People have not yet become aware of the profit from such trees. Con- sider the product of one Sweet Chestnut tree, then of 100 or 1,000. While Chestnuts spring up naturally on sandy soil, 1 have seen them bear well on clay or loam. Protecting Grape-vines. Our men have nearly completed trimming and laying down the Grape-vines. They bend them down carefully, and cover with soil to hold the vines close to the earth. We do not deem it necessary to cover all of the vine, except the Duchess, a noble variety, but so tender as to give no fruit here if not covered. Strawy manure or earth answers the purpose. Concord and other hardy varieties usually come out safely without covering, but occas- ionally they are injured, and the loss of one crop would pay for protecting many years. If such kinds are simply weighted down with fence rails the object will be secured. The first few years that Grape-vines are planted they need banking up with earth, or covering lightly with stra\vy manure to protect the roots, which are then near the surface and not so tough as they will become with age. It is an easy matter to start a vineyard, and everyone is surprised at the low price they can sell at with profit. Con- cords at two or three cents per pound are a good paying crop. The Concord has not yet been supplanted by any new variety. Angouleme Peak. While this variety has given the largest profits in past years in Western New York, we find it unsatisfactory as a dwarf. On our soil it is difficult to keep it in dwarf form, as it sends up shoots 3 to 3 feet long in one season if not cut back, and, without attention, after a few years, is so high as to be swayed by the autumn winds. Anjou, Tyson, and others require but little pruning to keep them in shape, while Angouleme keeps one cutting contin- ually, and yet is too rampant. It blossoms prodigiously each spring, yet bears but little fruit, and that often imperfect. Flemish Beauty and Vicar yieldnobly on dwarf trees. We double work Winter Nellis, Souvenir and some others, in order to get them on dwarf trees, as they do not take well to the Quince. Bosc is a noble Pear, having one drawback, slow growth in the nursery, which makes the trees scarce and high priced. Winter Nellis, .Josephine, and Gifl- ard the same defect. Our Kieffers were the most handsome of all the past fall, and were selected first by buyers. People stopped the wagons to buy pocketsful. The quality was not equal to others in the same load. It was the appearance that sold them. How TO Tighten Wires on Grape Trel- lis. While visiting Messrs. E. & J. C. Williams, at Montclair, N. J., last fall I noticed a novel method. It is simply an iron bolt 4 inches long with square head, sharp point and sharp thread, made for bolting wood to wood, no nut being attached, selling at $1..50 per 100. A hole large enough to admit a treUis wire is drilled through the bolt near the head. The end parts of the trellis being well braced, the wire is fastened to one post and strung along the ground to the other end. A hole a little smaller than the bolt is bored in the post at the desired height, and the bolt inserted. The wire is passed through the hole drilled in the bolt, and drawTi tight, then an assistant screws the bolt a turn or two into the post, which clinches the wire, which is then cut, and successive turns of the bolt by the wrench makes the wire as tight as desired. It is but a moment's work to tighten or loosen the wires, a desirable feature, as in winter the wires should be loosened, as they contract, and in summer tighthened. Nothing looks more shiftless than wires of Grape trellises left flopping about, or shiftlessly fastened at ends, with end posts half pulled over, as is the case unless the wires have some device as this, and the posts are well braced. Pruning Plum and Cherry. More care is required in priming Plum and Cherry than other fruit trees. All trees should be pruned when young, so as to prevent the removal of large limbs, which removal is always injurious, but with the Plum and Cherry the removal of large limbs is often fatal, and always more injurious than with other fruit trees, as the wounds do not heal so rapidly, and often not at all; thus often disease steps in and the trees die. I once cut off a large branch of a thrifty Plum tree and grafted it. The graft grew and the next spring I cut ofl: all the remaining natural branches but one. The graft grew rapidly, and the third year bore an immense load of Plums, nearly as large as hen's eggs, and so close together the fruit touched everywhere. It was a wonderful sight, almost a solid block of Plums; but next year the tree died. The wounds had not healed and the bark was dead for several feet below them. Bleaching Evaporated Fruit. FRED. W. CARD, BRADFORD CO., PA. A recent writer in your columns condemns the practice. K it is such a short sighted method and there is such a prejudice against it as he claims, why is there no demand for Apples \rithout bleaching ? Those who evaporate fruit would gain nothing by bleaching if just as good market could be found for the unbleached. To show something about this I will quote the words of a Chicago commission firm written to me under date of September 3(5, 1887: "We cannot sell evaporated Apples without blcachiiuj. We do not know any- thing about the process of unbleaching you speak of." I have but little doubt that of two samples made from the same kind and quality of Apples, equally well put up, one with bleaching the other without, and placed on sale at the same price, most persons would purchase from those that were bleached. When I am compelled to ask at the table, as I have been, whether the sauce or pie is made from evaporated or fresh Apples, I fail to see wherein the flavor is materially impaired. By being left too long in the bleacher the fi-uit may be injured, but if properly done and left only long enough to set the color, I think it has no bad effect either on the flavor of the fruit or the health of the consumer. I am not a physician, and therefore not qualified to discuss the effects on the system, but as sulphur is simply a mild cathartic, and I believe in many cases an excellent blood purifier, I do no believe it can cause any injury. The sulphurous acid produced by the burning sulphur, as well as being a useful bleaching agent, is a powerful anti- septic, destroying fungous and bacterial de- velopment. Meat subjected to its action can be preserved from putrefaction for a long time. My bleaching is done after the Apples are sliced, and as they are in the bleacher only a very short time the amount of sulphurous acid which can be absorbed by the fruit is very small. Considering the fact that there are very many diseases in which this agent, inhaled as a gas or taken internally in the form of sulphites, is found very beneficial, 1 see little cause for alarm. Plum Taltc from Northern Maine. E. W. MERRITT, UOULTON, MAINE. Some of my Plum trees set in spring of 1885 bore five quarts in 1880, and one peck in 188". In the orchard there are Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Lombard, Magnum Bonum, Columbia and Mooer's Arctic, and the latter has outborn any other two. The Arctic may or may not be called cur- eulio proof, for some of the fi-uit is stung. Some claim that many of the curculio eggs are drowned, the Plum being very juicy. As it is, it sets such a superabundance of fruit buds that sufficient are left for a crop, and thus it is said to be curculio proof. The curculio is slviggish and prefers to as- cend the same tree where it was reared. Perfectly clean cultivation with horse and i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 95 hoe Is necessary, and when the Plums begin to fall the ground should be entirely free from weeds, and raked smooth in order that the Plums may be readily picked up and destroyed. This I find the most inexpensive and effective remedy. All will not be de- stroyed, but enough to secure the crop of any fruitful variety. We plant Plum trees 8 feet apart each way. In order that the trees may be laid down and protected, first plow a deep fur- row and spread the roots two ways, that is each side of the tree, then trim the limbs fan shaped. Then by removing a shovelful of dirt the tree may be bent down and pinned flat to the ground in the fall, a thing neces- sary here, as the thermometer goes down to 40 every winter, and last somewhat lower. We have no Plum, Pear or Cherry that will stand uninjured through these winters, as the snow comes on early; those trees that are laid down are soon covered with snow, which is all the protection they need. I think this would be a benefit even without snow, as it is warmest near the ground. We graft the Plum on one year old seed- lings, but where it isnecessary to transplant these 1 should not advise grafting until the next spring, as otherwise the shoots will be weak and crooked unless on very rich ground. All the native and European Plums do well on Canada Plum stocks as far as we have tried. We whip graft, using a scion of two buds, and the grafts often made a growth of from four to six feet. We have not been able to bud on the Canada but have made 9.5 per cent grow when grafted. I have never seen a Plum tree proof against black knot. I will not attempt to say what it is, but have reasons for believing that it is brought on by acid manures, sawdust, chip dirt, rotten wood and often is increased on poor, dry, sandy, also wet, soggy and putty-like soil. A well stirred, warm, mel- low soil with abundance of ashes, bones and a supply of manure and salt will practically banish it. One peck of hardwood ashes, one pint of salt and a handful of lime ap- plied three or four times a year is very good; when black knot appears cut it out with all the curly wood, if it takes half the limb; it will soon heal if given the above treatment. Notes From an Ohio Vineyard. MATTHEW CRAWFORD, CUTAHOOA FALLS, O. The first Grape to ripen was the Jessica, which was in good eating condition at the middle of August and fully ripe at the first of September. It originated in Canada and has proved hardy thus far. It is a good grower, making an abundance of firm, short- jointed wood. There was a little mildew on young vines, but no rot has yet appeared. It is a very prolific bearer and seems to be able to carry a large crop to maturity and ripen its wood at the same time. The bunch and berry are only medium in size, being Uttle larger than the Delaware. It may remain on the vines a long time without dropping from the stem, or wilting. The quality is very good; indeed, almost equal to the Delaware, and without a trace of foxiness. One person thought that it was almost too sweet. Chas. Carpenter says it is the best white Grape he ever tasted. I think it is the best white variety for home use yet introduced. Not large enough for market. The Early Victor ripened very soon after the Jessica. It is from Kansas and is a rampant grower, healthy, hardy and prolific. The bunch and berry are of medium size and very attractive in appearance. The quality continues to improve for some time after the fruit turns black, until it may be classed as one of the best black Grapes. Its season is short. If left on the vine long after maturity it shrivels badly. Potter's Early is one of the Concord class, but ia sweeter than that variety ever becomes. It originated at Providence, R. I. , and is a great favorite in that locality. It is little known elsewhere. I planted three large vines when it was first introduced, and they have made a luxuriant growth, and fruited three times. In wood and foliage it resem- bles tlie Concord, but the leaves are more russety and turn yellow much earlier. It is very early, but may remain on the .vine a long time without dropping or wilting. The berry is of the size and color of the Concord, but the bunch is a little smaller. It is per- haps the sweetest of all Grapes and has a very little foxiness. The W'orden may be classed as an improved Concord, but a week earlier. Its leaves turn yellow some time before those of the Concord, and it is less liable to rot. Too much can hardly be said in its favor. The Lady is one of the most valuable of the white Grapes and perfectly hardy. The cluster is of medium to large size, with large berries crowded together quite closely. The skin is thin, and sometimes cracks in a wet time. It has a great quantity of sweet, rich juice of which bees and wasps are very fond. While it is not as good as the Jessica, it is better than the Pocklington or the Niagara, about which we have heard so much. It is quite early, and in ordinary seasons may be left on the vine long after maturity. Pocklington is another of the Concord class, healthy and reliable. I am not aware that it has been winter killed anywhere. It has large clusters and its yellowish color makes it quite attractive in the market. The quality is almost as good as that of the Concord, with a little more foxiness. The Niagara is much like it, but its clus- ters are rather larger, and it is hardly as foxy. It is a favorite in the market, and usually brings a good price. It has not fruited with me, but I have seen it in perfec- tion, and think well of it for market. Two vines of the Empire State fruited with me this season. They were unpruned and unprotected last winter, and some of the buds seemed to have been weakened in conseqiience. They received no summer pruning this season, and as a number of strong canes have grown from near the ground, the fruit was retarded somewhat in ripening. The clusters were of medium size and the flavor very good. Six vines of the Woodruff Red fruited for me this season for the first time. For vigor- ous growth, hardiness and splendid foliage this variety is not surpassed. The fruit was never claimed to be very good, and I was ex- pecting it to be inferior. For this reason I made no use of last year's wood. Hereafter every bud shall be saved. It is quite early in ripening, and is so large and beautiful that everyone wanted to taste it. No one found fault with the quality, but very many spoke of it in the highest terms. It is the brightest red of any Grape I have seen. None of the clusters were very large, though of fair size. The flavor is very sweet and rich, with a little foxiness that nearly every person relishes. It has quite a large, hard center that never becomes tender. Perhaps it would have done so if it had more time. This is its main defect. Its attractive ap- pearance will cause it to sell readily, and its flavor will please nearly all who taste it. Its habits of growth and productiveness will make it a very safe variety to plant for either home use or market. The Isabella has been so completely super- seded by the Concord that many are unac- quainted with it. It is when well ripened of better quality than any of the Concord class. The vine is an excellent grower and bearer, and it is one of the best keeping varieties we have. It is jet black and has a bloom resembling lampblack. Its stems never become woody, and when perfectly ripe they are so tender that they are easily broken, and one feels like carrying the clus- ter in his hand rather than tru.sting the stem. If allowed to overbear it fails to ripen both fruit and wood. I have known a vine to produce over 3,(KI0 pounds in a single season, and most of them were of good quality and well ripened. It occupied several trees, was never pruned except with the scythe when the shoots hung in the way. This is the way for inexperienced persons to treat any variety. Vines seem to need brush to climb on. I have a couple of Isabella vines that I care for because the fruit is a favorite with so numy.— Ohio Farmer. Growing Strawberries for Large Yields. MR. J. B. ROa£R.S BEFORE THE MICHIOAN HORTICULTC- RAL .SOCIETY. This subject divides itself into two classes. F; ret— A great yield, having less reference to the large size of the Individual berry; and, .S'fco?!^— Seeking large size in the indi- vidual berry, with less yield in the aggregate. The culture will necessarily have to be treated separately in the first stages. First class: Select plants for setting that have never been forced to their greatest yield; of a variety possessing strong, natural vigor, inclining to form numerous fruit crowns, and capable of withstanding high feeding. Set as early in the spring as the soil is in fit condition, five feet between rows, three feet in the row. Allow the plants to make matted beds. Late in the faU, and just before applying mulch between the rows, remove all feeble plants, as well as those set in the spring to form the bed; then thin those remaining to allow room for the developingof the plant and fruit next spring. Second class: Select runners from plants that have never been forced to their full fruiting capacity, of a variety having strong, natural vigor, and capable of withstanding high feeding. Time of Setting: This varies with the variety. All that is requisite is sufficient length of time to elapse before the severity of the weather causes plant growth to cease for the development of one or two good, vigorous fruit crowns. Allow any runners starting to make root, and late in the fall, just before applying the mulch between the rows, remove all but the plants first set. Set plants two feet between rows, and eight to ten inches between plants in the row. The culture of this class is in single stools, not cuttmg runners; rather removing all runners taking root in the late fall. The remainder of my remarks will apply to the culture in general. PREPARATION' OF THE GROUND.— Select land capable of being finely pulverized, moist, not wet. inclining to be heavy— that is, such as vrill become firm about the roots. Special care should be taken to have an abundance of plant food well mixed with the soil. Well rotted caw manure, at least one year old, is one of the best forms of plant food. Spread on the surface of the land at the rate of one ton, or 2.5 bushels to each 12 feet square of surface, this being at the rate of 75 cords of manure to the acre. This may seem to some almost wasteful, yet the demand of the fruit upon the food in the soil must be met. ^Miatever manner is employed should be of such a nature as to make a slow, vigorous plant growth to perfect the best possible fruit crowns, not only for fruiting the next spring, but also to withstand the rigor of the winter. For early spring setting, prepare the soil the fall before, to allow time for the plant food to become incorporated in the soil. For later set plants, prepare early in the spring, and raise a crop of Peas on the ground, then prepare for setting plants. Cultivation.— As soon after setting plants as the new leaves begin to grow in the crown 96 POPULAR GARDENING. February, of the plant, fighting weeds should com- mence. Never disturb the soil deeply, )ise the garden rake mostly. Place runners in position by hand, loosening the soil a little where the runners are to be struck. When to Cease Culture.— By culture is here intended any disturbance of soil in general, to interfere with the so-called fruiting roots. Within from two to four weeks before the final setting in of winter a new series of roots designed to feed the fruit commences to form. These grow near the surface, hence it is safest to abandon culture except on the surface fully two weeks before time for the early frosts. As TO Mulch. — Apply liberally between rows as soon as the first severe fi'osts take place; this acts as a protection to the fruit- ing roots. At the setting in of winter cover the plants lightly to protect the foliage from the winds and sun. Care in the Spring of Fruiting.— Do not disturb the soil except pulling of any weeds appearing while yet small After all frosts remove the mulch from over the plant, allowing it to remain between the rows. Foreign Grapes in tlie Greenhouse- Growing in Pots. Most amateurs possessing a light and heated greenhouse or span-roofed pit might easily furnish their tables with some deli- cious foreign Grapes by adopting pot culture. Vines in pots in large garden establish- ments are often relied on to furnish the very earliest supply of forced fruit. But the process of growing the vine quickly into a condition strong enough to bear a satisfac- tory crop of fruit in a pot is one that de- mands much attention, the all-important matter being thorough maturation of the wood. If this essential is not attained, fail- ure is well nigh certain. Under these circumstances, therefore, it is advisable with the amateur who may wish to try his hand at pot vine culture to pur- chase fruiting canes in the autumn from a 'IfflMlOTnwwiiw FOREIGN GRAPE-VINE GROWN IN POT. reputable nursery where their culture is made a specialty of, selecting those which have firm, brown, and well-ripened wood, and .showing prominent and well-developed buds. The best sorts to purchase for the purpose in view would be of free-bearing kinds, such as Black Hamburgh, Royal Muscadine, Foster's White Seedling, Mad- resfleld Court, Royal Ascot, and Alicante. Muscats rarely succeed well in pots, there- fore they had best be avoided. October or November is a good season to lay in a stock of canes from the nursery, and as very early forcing is not contemplated, they may be wintered in any house or pit that admits of the exclusion of severe frost, and great care must be taken that they do not become over-dry at the roots, for although the vines are in a state of rest, still great injury will surely occur if this matter is neglected. Having previously shortened the canes back to about 9 feet or 7 feet in length, about the first week in March will be a good time to introduce them into the house or pit intended for their culture. They will not require re-pot- ting, but should be rather deeply sur- face dressed with turfy-loam and crushed bones, and receive a thorough soaking of tepid water at the roots. If a bed of fermenting material, made of leaves and manure well mi.xed, is at command the pots may be slightly plunged therein — but if not available they do very well stood on the stage or floor of the house. The canes should be allowed to hang down at the points to encourage the buds to break uni- formly. When that stage is reached they can be fastened to the training wires on the roof of the house, or be wound round some strong stakes in the manner shown in the accom- panying illustration. The treatment as to temperature, ventilation, thinning the ber- ries, etc., is precisely the same in all its details as that of the ordinary grapery. Pot vines, of course, demand great attention to watering, and when the fruit is swelling they will consume large quantities of liquid stimulant — that made from cow manure and soot being as good as anything. Pot vines when grown wound round stakes are often used with good effect as an ornament, when the fruit is ripe, on the dining-room table or sideboard.— Gardening Illustrated. Fertility in Vegetable Gardening. WM. H. YEOMANS, TOLLAND CO., CONN. In the growing of all crops there should be such an amount of the various elements entering into their growth as may be neces- sary to carry them to a fairly reasonable perfection. If this is a necessity in the case of ordinary field crops, when it comes to the production of vegetables, such as are satis- factory as to size and quality, the necessity becomes very much increased. No real success can l)e hoped for in the growth of vegetables without the use of large quantities of manure, supplemented by a liberal use of commercial fertilizers. Vegetables may attain fair size upon a mod- erately rich soil, but inasmuch as their growth was only moderate, continuing through the season, their quality is seldom satisfactory. Such are usually coarse, stringy and of strong flavor. There is little danger of manuring a soil too heavily for vegetables, and when grown upon a soil that is rich in the elements of plant nutrition the growth is rapid, matur- ity is reached early and the character is tender, sweet and .iuicy, just such as is de- sirable either for home use or for market. Upon every farm the point should be made to use all fertilizing material that is fre- quently allowed to go to waste. By the con- tinual saving of this and composting it, much valuable fertility will be accumulated and of a character just suited for the garden. The use of house slops in the garden will add no little to the fertility of the soil and in such form as to be assimilated to the plant immediately. Chamber slops possess an unknown and unappreciated value, and should be appropriated for use in the garden. They may be cast upon the soil during the growing season, and also during the winter. It is said that a farmer grew quite a patch of Onions where no other fertilizer was used than the slops from the chamber. Ordinarily there is not sufficient care HOLLYHOCK— CRIMSON JACKMANIl. exercised in saving nor in applying fertilizers to the vegetable garden. Success cannot be hoped for without— a fact that farmere should be quick to acknowledge, and by which they should measure their actions. Hollyhock Crimson Jackmanii. What Mr. M. A. Hunt, of Terre Haute, Indiana styles a much improved Hollyhock is shown in the above engraving. It is called the Crimson Jackmanii, and is said to stand unrivaled for beauty of bloom and majesty of gro\vth. No doubt the Holly- hock is in the way of again becoming much more popular with gardeners than it has been for some time past, as it certamly de- serves to do. Believing such to be the case, it is a pleasure to call attention to any marked improvement in this grand genus of summer flowering plants. The flower of Crimson .Jackmanii is de- scribed as being of a bright crimson color, very large, perfectly double, and a perfect rosette, which in elegance of shape rivals the Camellia. It is said to have, moreover, a longer stem than is usual to these flowers, a point which should be decidedly in its favor as a bouquet flower. The disseminator of the variety informs us that he has cut sin- gle blooms of it which measured four and one-half inches through. As a decorative plant for backgrounds, for arranging in clumps on the lawn, or for enlivening the shrubbery border which be- gins to fail in its profusion of bloom about the time the Hollyhock season of flowers opens, the Hollyhocks as a class possess special value. The richness of the colors, the conspicuous arrangement of the flowers on the upright stalk, the large handsome leaves and the general stately bearing of the plant as it towers above the majority of its neighbors, offer an array of good quali- ties not elsewhere to be found. Nor is the culture of Hollyhocks difficult. The plants delight in a rich soil; to be oc- casionally divided and reset in the fall, and a slight protection given during winter. Plants from seed sown in the spring or sum- mer bloom the second year, while if it be sown as early as January or February in heat, and the plants well brought on, they will sometimes bloom the same year. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 97 WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BV A. M. PURDY, P.VLMYRA. S. Y. IS APPLE GROWING OVERDONE ? Yes, as they are generally grown and cared for. No, if properly grown. The same time given to an Apple orchard that is given to an acre of Wheat or Corn that brings the same amount of money gross will make an Apple orchard the most paying crop grown by the farmer. Proper trim- ming, spraying witli poisoned liquid and proper cultivation with the right kinds for each section will make orchards pay. The Yeomans, of Wayne Co., in this State, gathered from their orchards the past fall forty thousand bushels — most of which, we believe, were evaporated, and probably sold on an average at not less than 10 cents per pound, which would net at least 40 to 50 cents per bushel. We had an orchard of about 300 trees, from which we gathered 2,000 bushels. These were all shaken off and evaporated, and as help was scarce they were run through without trimming, and sold for an average of s cents per pound, which, with dried skins and cores, is 40 cents per bushel. There is an old saying, "fruit trees are growing while we sleep," and now that help is getting so scarce, high and independent, the more a farmer can plant that brings crops without so much labor the better. Trimming and feeding with manure may all be done in the winter when time is plenty farmers having little to do. Our orchard of 200 trees occupies only about eight acres of land and on that land we have had crops ever since we set the orchard. Now, if any one can name any farm crop that will bring the money from the same amount of land with less trouble and expense (the crops in the orchard have more than paid the expense), we would like to know what it is. Next spring we propose to plant out one thousand trees of the Ben Davis alone; with all of our experience it proves the most profitable of all, making as it does most beautiful white fruit, and hanging on the trees till freezing weather comes, hence one can take his own time in gathering. The trees begin bearing young and yield almost every year a wonderful crop of the finest fruit we have ever grown. Fifty young trees of this sort that we had in bear- ing the past season were the admiration of all who saw them. The wood is willowy and tough and the tree as hardy as a live Oak. We shall plant them out one rod apart, and as they begin bearing so young this gives a large amount of fruit from a small space of ground while young, and when trees begin to run their tops together, cut out every other row for wood, which can be sold for a high price to manufacturers if kept well trimmed up, so as to make plenty of body. After these rows have borne two or three years then cut out every other tree, which leaves the orchard two rods apart. A still better plan for the farmer, however, is to set rows along the road and all around the outside of his fields. These get plenty of sunshine and better soil for the same number of trees. STRAWBERRIES UNDER GLASS. W'e have had many inquiries a.s to forcing Strawberries, and from our own experience carefully endorse the following clipped from the American Garden, and would add that the perfect blossom or hermaphrodite sorts are far preferable. When the fli'st runners are fonned by the parent plant in the open ground they are placed in 3^-inch pots and allowed to root; the runners I leyond the pot are pinched oflf close to the pot- ted plant. When thoroughly rooted the young plants are taken up and the runners cut off close to the plant. The young plant is then removed to an airy, shady locality and given plenty of water, the pot l)eing set on boards or fiat stones to prevent worms from getting at the roots. When the plants have been in the pots for about three weeks they must be shifted to larger pots— 0-inch generally —placing in each pot stones or crocks for drainage ; this is important, for, as a rule, unless thorough drainage is given the soil becomes musty and sour naturally, to the detriment of the plant. After removal to the larger pots they are plunged into the open ground to the rim and allowed to make a rigor- ous growth up to \rithin a few weeks of remov- ing to the forcing-house. Water well up to this period, then withhold water, unless it is neces- sary to give an occasional sprinkling to save from drying. When an early crop of fruit is desired the plant may be removed to the forcing-house early in Novemt)er, plunging the pots into the soil. The plants must now receive the best of care, regular waterings being of the most importance. PrcY-ent the plants from being soggj' by too much water. The temperature of tlie house should be kept at about 70° to 75° during the day and from i)5° to 6.5° at night. While the plants are in bloom it is a good plan to admit as much air as can be had without materiall,v lowering the temperature. After bloom and Ijefore the fruit begins to ripen is the critical point in their culture. Water should be given in sufficient quantity to prevent the leaves from wilting, but not after the fruit begins to turn, unless the foliage is in danger of wilting. We have found an occasional application of liquid manuie very beneficial while the fruit was in the process of ripening. Of course, if it is desired to have a succession of fruit, all of the plants must not be taken into the house at one time. Those not placed in the house for ripening should have quarters in a cool, dry place, where frost cannot reach them, until wanted. By taking out a lot every three weeks a succession of fruit may be had. For forcing, a house of the lean-to style is pre- ferable to any other, as by its use the plants may be brought nearer the glass and, as a conse- quence, the fruit ripens quicker and much more evenly. Still, an ordinary greenhouse or prop- agating house may be used to good advantage. WORK FOR THE WINTER. Trim out old dead wood of Raspberries and Blackberries, and shorten in last year's growth so that canes will stand four to five feet high, owing to stockiness; also cut back all side branches at least one-half to two-thirds. Get boxes a foot square, and covered with oiled sheeting, for covering over early transplanted plants to protect from cold spring weather and frosty nights. A few of these boxes for Toma- toes, Cucumbers, Melons, etc., will give a supply of the earliest vegetables for the family. Grapes may be trimmed this month, if not done before, although we prefer trimming earlier, or about the time the vine is in full leaf. There is no time that Strawberries suffer more freezing and thawing than in early spring. So that mulching with straw or leaves should be at- tended to at once, simply putting on sufficient U> cover plants and ground from sight. We were asked if weeverputnew-made manure on Straw- berries. Certainly ; and this is the best thing to do, scattering it evenly over the ground. Grape, Currant and Gooseberry cuttings may be made now, and tied in bunches — say three eye cuttings— and placed in boxes of sand or damp sawdust till setting time in the spring. Get the cultivators, hoes and all kind of imple- ments fixed up now, and not have to stop in the drive of spring work to do it. Save your coal ashes, and mi,\ to every bushel three to four quarts of salt, and put around each tree a half peck to a peck. It is also excel- lent to scatter broadcast under all fruit trees. Gather up all bones that can be found, and, after being broken or ground, dig in around the grape rines or fruit trees. Nothing is more last- ing or beneficial. We find nothing more beneficial for keeping Apples fresh and crisp than dry, fine-sifted coal ashes. It absorbs all moisture, and where this is done decaj' or rot is almost impossible. Watch closely the young trees, that mice or rabbits do not girdle them. One of the best pre- ventives is to bank earth up around the trees, and another is to tramp snOYv around them right after it falls, as mice work under the snow close to the gi'ound, and the hard-packed snow pre- vents this. If young trees are girdled cloFe to the ground by mice, they can be saved by bank- ing up early in the spring with earth alwve the girdled part. Haul leaves from the woods to the baniyard and stables to be used to absorb, and save urine, which is the most valuable of fertilizers. If leaves arc not to be had, get sawdust or tanbark for this purpose. Nursery trees should be trimmed up now. If you have a garden of heavy soil where you cannot grow Radishes, Beets, etc., with success, draw on clear sand to a depth of two inches, and spade fir plow this in in the spring. It is essential, if you would be successful in harvesting Raspberries with the new patent har- vester, that all old wood be cleaned out, and the ground made smooth and even under the bushes to push the harvester along easily. HINTS FROM MV OWN EXPERIENCE. Manuren. Of all we have tried give us well- rotted barn-yai-d manure for fruit trees, and for Peach trees wood ashes. We have alwajs noticed where wood ashes were freely supplied to Peach trees that no borers troubled them. himc scattered over the soil is beneficial to Apple trees. In locaUties where Cherry trees grow too fast and do not fruit, seed down. Reinuvitiy Large Limhs. We cannot recommend cutting off large limbs to fruit trees at the season when the sap flows freely, unless where ti-ees grow too rampant and rapidly. To (lecDinpme honen, put them in unleacbed ashes in alternate layei-s and in one year's time they will be completely decomposed. Asparagus. It is not well to allow Asparagus to seed; it should be cut before seed ripens. When a Peach orchard gets well under way it should have the entire use of soil. A good plan : SOYV rye in August and plow under in spring. Shading hodiea of trees with boards through winter will prevent bursting of bark. To prevent mildew in Apple trees, trim out well. Grope Rot. An old Grape grower in Virginia informed me last fall that the past two seasons had been the worst he had ever known for Grape rot, and he attributes it to the wet seasons. Our adrice is to plant on high, dry ground. In a Vir- ginia plantation Grapes on two rows near a rapid flowing stream rotted much less than the same kind further away from the stream. Oiled paper sanhe-f for forcing beds can be used, if carefully protected. Simply take boUed linseed oil with iilenty of some kind of dryer mixed in and put on two good coats. Thin sheeting is stouter and better. Pear Blight. A writer in the Country Gentle- man claims he haM checked and stopped Pear blight by thorough pruning at time of blight. This only confirms our experience in stopping blight by slitting the Umb and btnly on one side from the blight down as quick as blight is seen. Blancliing Celery. A correspondent writes: " Why Is it I can't get nicely blanched Celery ? It will be rusty and unbleached." Just as .soon as the stiilks begin to drop over on the ground the earthing up process should commence, and this should always be done In dry weather, when the stalks are perfectly dry, for if compressed to- gether when wet and banked up a dingy rust on the stalks will Ije the result, and, too, great care must be exercised to prevent earth from dropping l)etween the stalks when earthing up. The stalks must be held close together when banked up and the earth packed ipiite firm. Rhuharh Growing at the South. A correspon- dent living near Charleston, S. C, asks why he cannot succeed with Rhubarb; that he has culti- vated it in different wa.vs, mulched and manured hearily, and yet without success. Our son at High Point, N. C, informs us that it is not grown there successfully. Complaint is made that the roots decay and rot. Perhaps the soil where grown may require a thorough drainage. This may prevent roots rotting, and then if ground is well fed and mulched it may succeed. Red RanpherrifK, South. It is quite remarkable that the Red Rasjiberry does not sucker more in the Virginia soil than it does. We were told that it will run out in a few years, and that plants have to come from a more northern section. We think, however, if the soil is well drained and worked and fed with manure, there will be no trouble in getting all the increase of plants wants. Strawberries on Ridges. It will not do to set out Strawberry plants on ridges, except on low, wet soil. As a rule set on level ground and they will get ridged up enough in the course of a few years. 98 POPULAR GARDENING. February, Nycotyl as an Insect Destroyer. W. FALCONER, OLEN COVE, N. T. On page 64 I find a statement that Nycotyl " will not injure the tenderest flower." Bnt it will. Used in moderation and with dis- cretion it is a cheap, convenient, effectual and safe insecticide so far as aphides and thrips are concerned, but like tobacco in THE HANDSOME NEW LILAC C/CRULEA 8UPERBA. any form, of no avail at all against red spider, mealy bugs or scale. Nycotyl vapor has been used as an insect- icide for the past twenty-flve years, but not so generally as it has been of late. The way in which we commonly use it is by steeping Tobacco stems in the evaporating pans on our hot water pipes, scattering stems be- tween the plants, under the stages, along the pathwaysorelsewhere where convenient, and moistening them. The most effectual and quickest way, but by far the most dan- gerous, is to spread some moistened fresh stems on the warm pipes. The vaporizer recently illustrated in your columns is a capital thing for small green- houses or frames, but I don't know that it is any better than a lamp set under a shallow pan. Where tobacco stems are so very cheap and plentiful as they are here, we haven't much use for complicated vaporizers, but in European countries where tobacco paper, tobacco rag, and twist tobacco are used in- stead of stems vaporizers are of importance. In oiu- vrindow gardens nycotyl vapor is the most convenient way of applying to- bacco for killing insects. We often read about fumigating window plants with to- bacco smoke ! Why, the thing is not only almost impracticable, but an abomination that no family would submit to. But it looks pretty enough on paper. withal the perfume and sweetness of the flowers, of the Lilac, the plant has spread from garden to garden until it is familiar to everybody. But the object of this article is to invite at- tention to some of the improved but less com- monly known sorts of this shrub, and which deserve to be more widely cultivated. We do not forget how- ever that the old | common White I^i- j lac with its delight- ful creamy-white blooms is a difficult variety to surpass, if indeed it ever has been altogether ex- celled. This pos- sesses the peculiar- ity of tending to become a tree, a characteristic that should in this case be encouraged by cultivators, while some of the more recent whites espec- ially such as have Persian blood are bush like in their habits, hence, are generally con- sidered to be more desirable. Of improved va- rieties that have proceeded from the common types may be mentioned the following. Large-flowered White. This has pure white flowers that ap- pear in very large conceded to be the A Glance at Some Good Lilacs. The more common forms of the genus, the old purple and white of our gardens, are more widely known perhaps than any other ornamental shrubs in cultivation. This is easily accounted for. Their cultivation in this country dates almost from its first settle- ment, when our forefathers brought the bush with them as so much of the old homes to be transplanted to the new. Ever since, as a result of the hardiness, ease of culture, freedom of propagation by division, and trusses. It is generally finest white Lilac now in cultivation. Albert the Oood. A recent variety of erect growth. Flowers reddish purple, the best and most decided color of its class. Charlemhery. A distinct vaiiety with small light purple flowers shaded to pink. Colmar's Lilac. Large pale blue flowers, re- markably fine glossy foliage. Ccerulea superba. This is a recent variety that originated in the grounds of EUwanger & Barry, Rochester, N. Y.. and to whose kindness we are indebted for the use of the accompanying en- graving. The flowers, in immense trusses, are of a remarkably distinct color, being light purple in the bud but of a distinct blue when open. Double Purple. Similar to the common purple except that the flower has a double row of petals. Giant. Unusually vigorous, with large leaves and flowers, the latter of a blue color. Jacques Calat. Flowers rosy pink, of remark- ably large size and produced in immense panicles. Dwarf. This is a distinct variety, of small growth. Flowers of a dark reddish purple, in large com- pact spikes. Prince Nottger. One of the earliest Lilacs. Flowers deli- cate bluish purple. Prince of Wales. A new variety, the flowers of which are purplish lilac, the petals slightly curled near the edge; Panicles medium to large. Prof. Stockhardt. Laven- der flowers; large trusses. Next to the Common Purple and Common White Lilacs, the distinct species knovni as the Per- sian Lilacs are the best known. In point of fact all the types of Lilacs are of Persian origin. The Persian White Lilac, un- like the Common White, the Common Persian has a habit similar to that last described. The flowers are a dark lilac color and are produced in much larger clusters and looser than those of the Com- mon Purple. Although this shrub presents a more delicate style of growth than does the Common Purple, it in time forms a large broad bush. Tlie Rouen or French Red. This is said to be a hybrid between the Common and the Persian species and erabodys many good qualities. The flowers are reddish lilac in color, in numerous large panicles. One of the finest of Lilacs. Jost/ia's or Chifinanthus-leaved. A distinct and remarkably handsome variety of strong, upright growth and with long rich, shining leaves. The flowers are not so freely produced as in most other sorts, but are prized because of coming very late— after the others are gone. VerischajfeWs Lilac. Another remarkably dis- tinct variety, with flowers in large compact pan- icles, dark-red in the bud, changing later to Lilac. Tlie Chinese Lilac. This resembles the Persian, but with longer leaves; there are several varie- ties including reddish, purple and white. Emod's Lilac is a distinct Chinese species, which assumes a tree-like form and has white flowers. Insect Enemies of Flowers. Nearly every flowering plant is affected by Plant-lice or Aphides. These cluster on the stems of succulent plants, or on the un- der side of leaves, causing them to curl over. They have flask-shaped bodies, with the hind-body or abdomen thick and rounded, and provided with two tubes for the exit of a sweet fluid which is secreted from the stomach. This fluid is called "honey-dew," and is eagerly lapped up by ants, (See Fig. 2), who are often the companions of Aphides. The Aphides are exceedingly proliflc, the summer broods being brought forth alive. It appears that the first brood, which in the spring hatch from eggs, and the succeeding summer broods, are all females. The males do not appear until autumn, when they pair, and the females deposit eggs on the stems of plants and branches of trees. Fortunately the planWice have many enemies. The maggots of the bright colored, wasp-like, Syrphus Flies, Fig. 1; the grubs of the Lady-bird, or Coccinclla, Fig. 3; the Aphis Lion, Fig. 9, or young of the golden- eyed, green I.,ace-winged Fly (Chrysopa), Fig. H; and also minute Ichneumon files, all devour them. Among garden plants, the Pink is affected by Aiihis dianthi. The roots of Asters are infested by a whitish Aphis.which is always attended by small, yellow ants, which may be seen bearing away their "cows" to a place of safety when an Aster is uprooted. The Aphides have long beaks, which they stick into the leaves and stems of plants, suck out the sap, and arrest their growth. Plants which are aphis-ridden should be PLANT OF OALATHEA (MARANTA) ZEBRINA. SEE OPPOSITE PAGE. forms a large spreading shrub, the branches of which with age bend with a fine curve when loaded with flowers. The blossoms are of a delicate lavender white in May. The type known as showered with a weak solution of carbolic acid or benzine and water; or Dalmatian insect-powder may be dusted over them. By burn ing Tobacco.having the plants under a cover, the lice may be destroyed. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 99 Closely allied to the Aphides are the family of Mealy Bugs (.CoccUhr). They liave thicker, more oval, fuller bodies, covered with a white powder, and are harder to dis- lodge (hau Aphides. Plants covered with them should be carefully washed in strong soap-suds. Ants are sometimes injurious to plants. A quantity of the best Dalmatian insect-powder, even if used out-of-doors, will break up an ants' nest, while benzine poured into the nest will also scatter them. 13y far the worst enemy of the Rose is the troublesome little Slug-worm which eats the surface of the leaves, covering them with dead patches, causing the leaves to wither and curl. The slug-worm is a pale, yellowish-green griTb, the body some- what thickened behind the head, and about a quarter of an inch in length. Slug-worms appear early in July, and remain, unless immedi- ately checked, through August. When fully grown, the Slug-worm stops eating, descends to the ground, and there remains \intil June of the following year, when the little,black Saw-flies, the parents of the worms, appear upon the new leaves. They may then be caught with the hand on cloudy days. With theii- saw they cut a hole in the leaf and insert an egg, from which the worms shortly hatch. Hand-picking, the ap- plication of a very weak solution of carbolic acid, or kerosene, or powdered hellebore, or to dust the affected leaves with Dal- matian insect-powder every day, are excellent remedies. A faithful application of these one season will prevent the reappearance of worms the next. The Rose-chafer or Beetle is a long-leg- ged, big-clawed, crawling, disgusting crea- ture, which spoils the Rose and our pleasure in picking it. It seeks the Rose to devour the pollen and the petals. The chafer is a near ally of our June beetle, and has be- come extremely abundant within ten years. The beetles appear early in June. Hand- picking is a sure remedy if all would com- bine. They sometimes cluster in great numbers on the buds, and then should be seized and thrown into tire or scalding water. Another enemy of the Rose is the little Rose-leaf hopper, a minute, yellowish-while insect, which punctures the leaves, causing them to appear blotched and white. These Insects are very abundant, rising often in swarms from the bushes. They may be kept under by the same applications as have been recommended for the slug-worm. Rose leaves are often found in mid-sum- mer with circular holes neatly cut out of them. This is the work of the interest- ing Leaf-cutter Bee, which cuts out pieces of the leaf with her jaws to make her nests. Sometimes they almost strip a rose-bush. The stalks of the Phlox are sometimes bored into by the Phlox-worm, the cater- pillar of HvUothis pldofjoplmiiux. Of this caterpillar there are in Illinois two broods in a year; the first, appearing in July, be- comes moths by the middle of August, the second pass the winter in the chrysalis state. A very general feeder in gardens is the common Hairy Caterpillar or Fall Web- worm, which makes a tent on the branches of the Apple.Pear and Cherry. Late in sum- mer, after it becomes full-fed, it throws off its gregariotis habits, and scatters about the garden, and does in a small way more or less injury to low plants. Another insect, which Is very minute, ex- ists in gi-eat numbers, especially in com- posite flowers, such as Daisies, Asters and the like. This is the little Black Thrips, Fig. 8; an active black creature about a \ Larva of Syrphu king Aphi , Larva Lady Bug, enlarged. 3. Ant Milking Aphis, enlarged. INSECT ENEMIES OF FLOWERS. 4. Lady Bug, enlarged. 5. Chrysalis of Lad\ ti. IrfM-t* Fly and Stat Bug, enlarged, ■ed Eggs, enVgd twentieth of an inch in length, the surface of the leaves, or punctures the petiils, disfiguring the plant, and occasion- ally doing a good deal of harm. Careful and frequent washing drives these away. The last insect on our list is a beautiful, broad, flat, golden beetle called the Camlda, which preys upon the Morning-glory in the grub or larva state. The grubs are com- mon late in July, when we have found them in all stages eating holes in the leaves. — A. S. Packard in Youths Companion. The leaves are something like two feet long and six inches wide, of a rich, deep green, and have a soft appearance resembling the finest velvet. Many other species are equally ornamental. The culture of Calatheas is not difficult, heat, water and shade from the sun being among the main requirements. But while needing an abundance of water in their growing state, a stagnant moisture at the roots is most injurious; good drainage is therefore essential. To have the foUiage in the best possible condition an abundance of moisture must also be provided in the plant apartment during the season of growth. Great regard must be had to the kind of water used in syringing, for some kinds will leave an un- sightly deposit on the leaves, spoiling their beauty, unless they be frequently sponged be- sides. Clear, soft water is undoubtedly the best for this purpose. The best soil for these plants is a rich, loose, open loam, one in which a liberal proportion, say one-third,of decayed leaf soil or decayed hops, has been incorporated, and nearly the same quantity of well rotted manure, besides a heavy sprink- ling of sharp sand. The mixture should be used in a rough, lumpy state, so that the roots, which are of large size, may travel with freedom. The plants require a frequent increase of fresh soU by repotting or othervrise. Nearly all the species are easily increased by divisions. July is a favorable time to set about it, or it may be attended to at any time later, but previous to the following spring months. In dividing them the plants should be shaken out of their soil, and then they may be readily separated into as many parts as there are individual crowns. Calatheas are not subject to insects if properly supplied with moisture while growing, and a sufficiently moist atmos- phere is at all times maintained. But with- out these red spider is quite likely soon to appear, and to quickly disfigure the leaves. Epilaehna, slightly enlarged Tnrips, greatly enlarged. " Lt Aphis lion, larva of Lace Fly. It nibbles The Calatheas (Marantas) and their Culture. Many of the best known plants formerly classed as Marantas are now embraced by the genus Calathea. Such is the case with the well known sort illustrated opposite and formerly known as Maranta zebrina. At best the difference between these genera is only one of botanical character, and were it not for the sake of scientific accuracy we should prefer to see the old name prevail for all. The culture as well as general char- acter of the two genera are quite identical. In the Calatheas we have some of the finest ornamental-leaved pot-plants in cul- tivation. C. zebrina of the annexed en- graving is one of the best known. It has perhaps served as often as any other one plant to add beauty and polish to fine col- lections of conservatory or exhibition plants. ."iSS. Chrysanthemnms After Blooming. They should be cut down and placed in a cold frame, cool cellar, or underneath the (freenhouse stage, unless the cuttings are wanted now; if so, then place in a lijf ht situation as close to the glass as possible. Ciittiugs can be rooted from now on, providing one has the room to spare for them, and large specimens are required; but in most cases if they are rooted about the first of March it will answer as well. — C. E. P. 5.3.5. Draining the Orchard. You can set out the trees this spring as soon as the ground is in a proper condition to work, providing you intend to flnlsh the draining before winter sets in. Otherwise don't set out the trees until the land is properly drained.— C. E. P. 534. Twig Blight. Cut back to healthy wood the ends of all limbs that show indications of this bUght the very instant it is noticed. Are they Apple or Pear trees?— C. E. P. 575. Fertilizers for Strawberries. The guano, if a good article, should have produced good effects unless the weather was dry. We would ad- vise that you prepare another plot next spring, and to leave present one do as it will with need- ful care. Bone and potash often give fine re- sults upon Strawberries. lOO POPULAR GARDENING. February, A Pine Tree. A hauttful of moss from the woodside, Dappled with gold and brown, I borrowed to gladden uiy chamber In the heart of the dusky town; And there, in the flickering shadows Ti'aced by my window vine. It has nursed into life and freshness The germ of a giant Pine. Ont of this feeble seedling What wonders the years may bring; Its stem may defy the tempest. Its limbs in the whirlwind swing. For age which to men comes laden With weakness and sure decline Will add only growth and beauty And strength to this tiny Pine. I will take it again to the woodside. That safe with its kindred there Its evergreen arms may broaden Yearly more strong and fair; And long after weeds and bramble Urow over this iiead of mine The wild birds will build and warble In the boughs of my grateful Pine. —Philadelphia Times, The Rose is sweet, the Rose is red. The Rose hath many a lover;— The Showdrop hath a wintry bed. And of a wintry cover. But were I seeking for a flower To breathe sweet thoughts and hol.v, I'd leave the Red Rose in her bower. And plnck the Snowdrop lowly. White blossoms of the storm and cold! If thou hast not a spirit. Thou dost a living faith unfold; And that is wondrous near iti —Paul Pastnor. The Calla is half aquatic. The Bean is of the tropics. A poor soil is e.xpensire in the end. Market Apples before they mellow up. Snbscriptions may begin with any month. A light soil makes better flavored Carrots. An old tooth-brush for scale insects on pot plants. Young trees yield the finest, old trees the rich- est fruit. A first step in fitting up a new home: plant an Asparagus bed. The hot-bed is an excellent place to propagate Grapes from single-eye cuttings. " Every namber is worth the price for a year," write several enthusiastic subscribers. Fruits and flowers, like human nature, need only opportunity to prove their quality. A shift into a larger pot is rarely desirable as a pot plant is coming strongly into bloom. Many fail with the Egg Plant from not start- ing the seeds early enough. March is about the light time, giving them a warm place. Pruning. " We prune Apples, Pears and other hardy fruits any time that we have leisure be- tween leaf fall and April 1st." — P. Ba/iTy. Pry up a clump of the Bleeding Heart, Dicentra speciabilis, let it thaw out slowly, then pot it and you may soon have a fine window plant. Ihe Mursery "Agents" which Gardenino AND Fruit Growing recommends are the su- perb catalogues of reliable firms whose announce- ments appear elsewhere in the present issue. Egg-shell Flower Pots. Elder's Wife suggests in the Floral Gazette the tise of eggshells in place of thumb pots it the latter ai'e scarce for young plants. Tliey should be punctured with a darn- ing needle f (tr pritviding drainage. Have you talked to that neighbor yet about subscriV)uig ? Many of our readers we know have done so by the numerous clubs that ha\'e come to this office of late, but many more are yet to be heard from if they mean to help this paper in such a most desirable maiuier. Uypress Bars, etc, A recent writer cautions gardeners against the use of this wood for sashes, etc., saying that it never becomes wholly seasoned, hence it changes in dimensions with changes in the weather. Will our readers who have tried this material please report to us. The Horse-radish often atfords a good illustra- tion of the old definition of a weed, namely, "a plant out of place." In its place occupying a limited spot in some corner of the garden, it is a very desirable plant, but allowed to spread be- yond this spot it becomes a decided nuisance. To mail flower buds the Mirror and Farmer suggests the cutting of a Potato into two pieces, boring holes into them and inserting the stems of the buds with cotton to support them. There is sufficient moisture in a good sized Potato to support a flower or plant sUp for two weeks in a moderately cool temperature. Cremation for Ants. Empty a shovelful of live coals on the hill, lay (m top of that a flat stone, and pour over and around it a dipper of hot water. The steam hisses down into ever,v crack and crevice of the underground labyrinth, and not an ant lives to tell the tale or an egg is ever to be f ound.— Jf /'S. S. B. S., Melcalf Cii.,Tt:xa-i Weeds and Insects, I look for the ultimate use of electricity in our terrific battle with weeds and insects. Weapons are discovered in propor- tion to evils developed. The discoveries of car- bolic acid and kerosene have enabled us to hold our own in directions where we were threatened with total disaster. They are our two most im- portant insecticides. — Kew E. P. Powell. The Peach is regarded as the most delicious fruit of its latitude, and is well worthy of more attention in the home garden. Nowhere does it succeed so well as in America, notwithstanding some discouragements that have arisen. To show the appreciation of the English and French gardeners for this luscious fruit, it may be said that they will expend more labor on one tree than most of our orchardists do on a hundred. Our Guarantee. With a material increase of subscribers we cQuld and would make a much better paper still. So you see something depends on every subscriber who can help swell our sub- scription list. Let all work together to such an end. To be sure the subscription list is grow- ing more rapidly than ever before— it could not well help doing that— but let it grow yet faster, that the end sought may be the sooner reached. Beneflts from Close Sorting. Too much cannot be said for close sorting of fruits. I have just got returns for a few barrels of Apples sent to a reliable firm in New York, and the best Kings sold there for S3.7.5 per barrel, while nearly as good brought only $::M a barrel. For other vari- eties the price varied according to grading, in same proportion. Of course we must be parti- cular to whom we sell, for a good many car loads of Apples were bought here this fall for $1.1.5 per barrel.— Ciflude Smith, Chenango Co., N. Y. Manure for Mushrooms. Referring to some recent communication on sawdust manure for Mushrooms, Mr. William Falconer writes: John CuUen, of Bethlehem, Pa., a couple of years ago had the finest crop of Mushrooms 1 ever saw, and grown on mule droppings with some saw- dust. Mr. Henshaw, of New Brighton, Staten Island, and one of the most successful Mush- room growers around New York, uses manure from stables where sawdust is partly used as bedding. Mushrooms will grow in it well enough, but have as much of the droppings and as little of the sawdust as you can. Extremely Hardy Trees. E. W. Merritt, of Aroostook Co., Maine, has favored us with a list of trees that succeed in his far-north region, giving the extremes of cold in degrees helow zero they will endure uninjured: Applet<. Wealthy 35°, Gideon 3.5°, Pewaukee 35°, Walbridge 30°. Plums. Mooer's Arctic 35, Green Gage and Im- perial 30°, Lombard ffi°. Chen-y. Early Rich- mond and May Duke Cherry 30°. Ornamentals. Maple, Birch and Poplar of different species, 35°, Kilmarnock Willow :jO°. A few of the hardi- est Roses are grown here by laying down or growing in tubs in cellar in winter. The Variegated Kubber Tree. How is it no one has been found to say a good word for the vai-iegated I'icm elastica/ We have a pair of plants in ,5J^-inch pots about 4 feet high, and I do not think it would be easy to surpass them in iK'aut.\ . The variegation in most of the leaves is almost 11 iiure white, much better than we have seen it. The plants are grown in a liot-house and shaded from sun, but with plenty of light. During winter they stood in a cool Orchid house. I do not think it would be safe to keep them so cool as the green form. Though dilhcult to re- produce, I believe by rooting the tops of strong plants, shoots are formed at the a.xil of the leaves, which when larger strike well.— OW Gardener. Myrtle for the Window. It is not to the Vinca or Periwinkle, often wrongly called Myrtle, to which we here allude, but to the true Myrtle, Myrtn.'i comm}tnii<. This is a beautiful httle tree with small, dark-green, exquisitely shaped and smooth foliage of an agreeable fragrance, said tree bearing small white flowers in its season. It makes a most capital window plant when grown in a small pot, and kept fresh and clean by frequent sprinkling. Two plants that we know of have grown in a north window these last ten years, and have repeatedly been frosted, but they suffered no harm on that account, and they are now a fine pair, two feet high and nearly as much through, notwithstanding their being repeatedly robbed of cuttings and branches for friends who admire them. The plants may be had of almost any florist.— ^1. H. E. To Winter Celery Cheaply. If you ha\e an excavation used for hot-bed clean out the ma- nure except about two inches at the bottom. Then take up the Celery with as much dirt on the roots as possible; pack it in this pit closely in an upright position, working the manure at bottom around the roots, wetting the roots soak- ing wet after it is placed in. Now make a light cover over top of hot-bed frame of matched flooring, ha\'ing one end of the cover as a lid to raise when wishing to get in for Celery, and also to air on mUd days; and as severe weather ad- vances put a good covei-ing of straw on top of the cover and ai'ound the sides. If frost should appear to be getting in too much, place in the pit at one end a kettle of live coals occasionally. Celery put up this way blanches nicely, grows all winter, and can be had at any time.— 4. M. N. A Cheap and Effective Tree Guard. After all to be said in favor of setting out young trees in- stead of older ones for quick results, the fact re- mains that small trees are far more susceptible to injury from browsing animals or from fouling by dogs, etc., than are larger ones, unless some special protection is provided. We herewith present an engraving of a cheap and very effect- ive tree guard for a tree of any size, located where there is danger of Injury from animals. No explanation of its construction is necessary in addition to the cut. It would be of particular value in the case of yoimg evergi'eens. A guard similar to this might be made for street shade trees, but having less stakes, and these brought much neaier to the tree at the base, and spread- ing slightly at their tops for admitting air and light to the trunks. An Amateur's Fire Hot-Bed. As there is some trouble attending the making of hot-beds I pre- fer a frame bed, heated by a small kerosene '^W^-^. A Cheap and Effective Tree Guard. lamp, constructed after the following method: The frame which we have used for several years, and large enough for ordinary use, is sixteen by thirty inches, fifteen inches high in front and eighteen at the back. About half way from the top are nailed cleats to receive common roofing slates to form the bottom of the bed. on which are put two or three inches of wet sand. Bore a few small holes below the slate to supply air to the lamp, which may be very small. Fasten a piece of sheet iron just above the lamp chimney to distribute the heat. Cover the bed with a sash and set in a shady place. The first cost of this may be a little more than a manure bed, but it has the advantage of l>eing ready when once made.— i. M. Pope. Word from a Californian. Our subscriber, J. A. Clayton, of Santa Clara Co., California, t888. POPULAR GARDENING. lOI writes under date of November 25. " I note but few references to this State in Popular (iAii- DENINO. It is a su rprise that it should be so little understood in the East that the oliraate of the coast comities for a distance of six hundred raUes is almost iniiffirm and one of the finest in the world. Not sufficient frost to kill hardy plants. The thernioiueter now ranges from 4H at sunrise to ti,5 at midday in the sliade. In my garden to- day I find the following flowers in bloom: Ager- aturas, Alyssums, Japan Anem<^nes, Uegonias, t'allas, Chrysanthemums, Cosmos, Abutilons, Acacias, Jiusmines, Roses, 15 varieties, mostly Tea, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Laurestinus, Mar- guerites, Marigolds, Morning Glories, Sweet Peas, second crop, Nasturtiums, Pansies, Pinks, Fuch- sias in varict.\'. Lemon Verbenas, Violets,Vcrbena and Zinnias. Nelombium Luteom. W. C. Steele, Switzer- land, Fla., writes to this journal as follows: This plant is by no means so rare as is generally sui>- posed. My home formerly was La Porte, Ind., and there in a small lake about three miles from the city the Nelumbium was ^ery abundant. One t>f its peculjarities I have not seen men- tioned is that while part of the leaves are sup- ported clear of the water by stilf stems, a large proportion lie flat on the water, with small slen- der stems like those of the white Water Lilies. (iVj/niph(ra). The latter class of leaves often grow very large — over thirty inches across. The plant is found far south of Philadeliihia. Dr. A. W. Chapman, in his Southern Flora repoi-ts it as lieing found in lakes and ponds near Talla- hassee, Fla. I have good authority that it is found in the St. John's river. The still rarer Yellow Water Lily, (iVj/oip/Kra ftava), a true Nymphiva, is very similar to the common white Water Lily of the North, except in size and color, the first being quite small and the last light lemon; common in the St. Johns river, Florida. A Fine Bulbous Plant. The subject of our en- graring on this page is a comparatively rare but easily grown summer flowering bulb, Galtonia (or as some class it, Hyacinthus) candicans. It was first brought to the conspicuous attention of Americans at tlie Philadelphia Centennial Expo- sition, where a lot had been planted in the open ground by Krelage & Co., of Haarlem, Holland. These flowered finely and were much admired, receiving also the award of a medal. In general character the Galtonia is a noble bulbous plant, haring, in late summer, flower spikes from four to six feet high furnished with waxy-white bell- like blossoms 1)4 inches long. Its native habitat is the Cape of Good Hope, a region to which we are Indebted for so many choice bulbous plants. The cultui-e of the bulb Is easy, being similar to that of the Caiuia, which it more than equals in hardiness. We have known young ones to live over without protection In light soil. The proper winter treatment is to keep them in dry soil in the cellar or greenhouse, or they might safely be trusted in a dry cold frame. The plant is increased by otfsets frttm the bulbs or from seeds, which flower about the fourth year. The distinct and strong-featured habit of this plant makes it valuable for the flower garden. When a group is well grown in deep soil it is striking and novel in the late summer garden. A group lisiug from a bed of dwarf shrubs tells well, as indeed the plant does In almost any position when well grown. The bulbs may be procured from a num- ber of American florists, who pay special atten- tion U) keeiiiug up a stock of choice bulbs. Charles H. Marot, whose name has long been familiar to Horticulturists as proprietor and publisher of the Gardener's Monthly, died in Phil- adelphia, after a brief illness, from pneumonia, on the 21st of December, in his 63d year. The Gardener's Monthly started in 1W9, by Dr. Rodney King, of Philadelphia, and continuously edited ever since by the able Thomas Meehan, jiassed, in 1881, into the hands of W. P. C. Brlnkloe, who had hitherto only printed it. C. H. Marot came into the firm subsequently, and on the dissolution of the partnci-shi|i, 17 years ago, the Gardener's Monthly fell to his share. Through his wife's connections, of whom the lamous old nursery firm of David Griscom, of Woodbury, N. J., was one, he acquired a great fondness for gardening, and took a great pride In the Gardener's Monthly. He was the soul of honor and integrity in all his dealings. His father was one of the early settlers In West Philadelphia, and among those who did much to make it what it is to-day ; and the son took the same civic pride in the progress of things. He leaves a family comprising a widow, three daughtei-s, and a young son of about IB. It is gratifying to learn, as we do from a reli- able source, that under Mr. Marot's management the Gardener's Monthly was in sucli good shai)e a;t the time of his death, that the family were at first disposed to contliuie its publication them- selves, but a fair olfei* for its purcha.'Je coming, and onlj' one month leave them where they grew until they have made a growth of about a foot, then take up with a ball of earth and plant where wanted. In this way a perfect stand wUl be obtained, a thing almost im- possible to do when planting tips; another ad- vantage in using plants over tips is that they can be planted deeper, and are less liable to be blown over by the wind when loaded with fruit. The first year after planting no fruit should be grown, but the plants cut down to the ground. The second summer and afterwards pinch the .young canes as soon as they are 14 inches in height, and then pinch no more. The following spring prune the branches to about a foot in length. Of the caps I prefer the Tyler and Souhegan, which are very much alike, and the Greggs; these fill the season and are the best of the caps. The reds I would not plant, as I find them to be less profitable than the blacks; they sell for about the same, cost more to pick and to grow, and produce less. I consider the Brandy Wine and Hansell best for Market and the Turner for home use. Mr. Jackson— Would recommend the Hopkins Raspberry in addition to the foregoing. It ripened between Tyler and Gregg, was hardy, productive and nearly as large as the Gregg. Some one asked "why the Ohio was omitted, and received the reply that it was too small, though hardy and productive. Mr. Vandeburg— Plants2x7 feet and allows four to five stocks in each hill. Of red, plants Turner and Cuthbert. HanseU did weU this season. Shafer's Colossal was recommended by several members for home use and local market. Relative to Blackberries, President Brown did not know what to plant; was experimenting and hoped to find some new variety that was early, large, hardy, productive and remained black after picking. The Wilson was such a berry but was subject to boi-ers. The Sn.vder is too small. Mr. Vandeburg got heavy crops of Snyder which sold well in Jerseyville market. Messrs Jackson and Riggs would plant the Snyder. Grape Culture in the Lake Erie Vineyard Region. l^Practicat talks before tlte Chautauqua Hortieulfura Society, Dec. 5, 1887.] Thousands of acres of the best land o Northern Chautauqua and adjoining coun- ties are being devoted to this industry, which in extent and importance is increasing in an almost unprecedented ratio. President Becker.— Grapes do not need the best of land; we have lots of good Gi'ape land POPULAR GARDENING. lO' all the way from the edge of the lake to the forest line on the hills. Plow suitable soil, in hinds eight feet wide and plant in the deep furrows. If they are not deep enough dig them out and replace earth removed with some good top soil. I think it best to put on some fertilizer; prefer ground bone, from a handful to a half pint to each vine. We strew this on each side the furrow, and as the earth is drawn in to cover the roots the bone be- comes well incorporated with it and gets near the \ine where it can give it a good start. Vines treated in this way grow twice as I'apidly as where the bone is not applied. I plant ray vines nine feet aiiart, and about ten inches deep. Some advise us to plant twice as deep, but that depends on the soil. I would plant deei)er in a gravel soil than on clay. If we plant below a certain deiJth roots will start nearer the sui^face, and the lower roots will either die or be of little use. I like to plant deep, but not too deep. Ryckman.— I believe in planting down deep, the rows eight feet apart, and vines nine feet in the row. Used to believe in having the rows nine feet apart, but I find that if they are nearer we can plow an entire row at each bout with the gang plow, using three gangs. Four gangs are too heaAT for a team. In preparing for planting would plow just as deep as I could, and remove the earth in the bottom of dead furrows and re- place with the top soil. We place the vines so the roots will all run one way and spread the roots out. Then cover with good earth and put in bone dust. The cultiva- tion during the summer will fill up the furrows. In late July or early August we throw the fur- rows toward the vines, for winter protection, and if plowed early the ground will settle and not be penetrated so easily by frosts. Would not plow more than once in the summer. Plow away from the vines in the spring and towards them in the late summer. At the last plowing I have a man lift up each %ane so it is not covered. If it were buried its mass of gieen foliage would rot and injure the canes. I have the earth drawn up aro\md the vines. Next year I wiU have 65 acres bearing in one vineyard. We found last season that the vineyards did best that were plowed out eai'liest. But don't plow so early that the land will bake. Wait till the earth is comparatively dry. Some only plow once, and others not at all. If the land is well drained, and the Grape roots are down deep,plow- ing may not be necessary. Concerning deep planting, a friend has made a study of this question and ho says to plant at least 20 inches deep. He would do this even in clay soil. Dig down two or two and a half feet deep, fill in with good soil to twenty inches, plant the \ine, and cover with good soil, using fertil- izer. If planted this deep the vine wiU continue to mature even after the surface earth is frozen. I believe in thorough cultivation. The freshest, greenest looking vineyard I had this season was cultivated every week. If the weather is dry stirring will dampen the soil. If the soil is damp, stirring will let the air circulate through it and assist evaporation, thus preventing mildew. The distance apart to plant depends upon varieties. A wagon can be driven through an eight foot row if the vines are trained as they should be. Our best vlneyardists trim old canes to the lower wire and small canes to the second wire, and during the summer tie the young shoots to the top or third wire. This keeps the young wood off of the ground, gives plenty of room for working, lets the air circulate freely, and checks mildew and other diseases. Best Varieties. The Concord is the old stand- by, but yet I advise to plant quite largely of some others. One of these is the Worden. I have several thousand roots; shall plant them all. The Moore's Early is the best early Grape. The Worden comes between Moore's Early and the Concord. It is the best black Grape we have, either for table or wine. At my fruit stand could not sell any other black Grape as long as the Worden was offered. In quality it is way ahead of the Concord. Its shipping qualities have not been tested, and here it may fail. Plant Grape vines and keep planting. We can never overdo the business. All that can be grown can be marketed. Our Grape region is limited. Plant the Concord for the main crop. Worden and Moore's Early for early, and the Catawba might do for late, if our growers only knew how to care for it. It naturally bears too much. We put up five to eight canes and get a load of fruit that cannot be matured. In Cen- tral New York they prune their Catawbas to two canes, and only let them bear from one to two tons per acre. These will i-ipen perfectly. There is no finer flavored Grai>e than a well-ripened Catawba, and no poorer when immature. Since a crop of from one to two tons per acre will not pay as well as would Concords, it is not profitable to plant Catawbas. Concords sell for more to-day. Practical Comments on Hybridizing and Crossingr. [_By John Thurpe, Henry Bennet, of England, and others, before the Sueiety of Ameriean Florists.^ Mr. Thorpe. The term " hybrid " has been generally wrongfully used. Hybrids are the oftspring of different species. A seedling fi-om .^eed of the (Jen. Grant Geranium (a variety) as one parent, and Master Christine (another variety) as the other, would not be a hybrid, but simply a cross, both parents being varieties of the same species. But could a seedling be obtained from Gen. Grant (of one species) and the Kose-scented Geranium (another species) then we should have a true hybrid. Many interesting groups of plants now culti- vated were originally hybrids of species; notably the tuberous Begonias. The foundation of this superb class being Boliviensis, Pearcei, Davisii, Octopetala are admitted to be species, but the varieties in the.se groups to-day can be no longer hybrids, through their having been crossed repeatedly with one another. The same applies indeed to all cross-bred seedlings. The mechanical part of cross-breeding I need scarcely mention, e.\cept to say that it is impor- tant and absolutely necessary to remove the stamens (pollen producing organs) from all flowers to be operated upon before there is any possibiUty of becoming self-fertilized, and to protect the pistils (or female organs) from being crossed other than by the variety selected. Unless the conditions of the female plant are such as to enable it to receive the pollen from the male, you will not have any seed. The mechanical ap- plication is simply the traasferring of the pollen of the male to the stigma of the female plant. Geraniums. Of Zonal Pelargoniums I have raised seedlings bj' cross-fertilization for nearly thirty years. The many colors to be found in them at this time have been obtained one by one from a very few. I have found that to be successful in raising seedlings patience, perseverance, and good judg- ment are necessary. One of the first things is to secure good plants, possessing the properties most desirable, then to mate them accordingly, — being careful to prevent their being fertilized by insects or otherwise. The best time for Pelar- goniums is early in November, as at that season there are but few insects, and pollen grains do not float iu the air, as in summer. For years I used no varieties as parents except my own, as by bringing in varieties raised by others I fre- quently have broken up the characteristics I was anxious to perpetuate. In crossing to obtain particular colors, I have found, as a rule, where a scai'let as one parent and a white as the other was used, the result has not been as satisfactory as where the colors have not been so widely separated, as there are always variations in seedlings, many of which differ gieatly from each parent. If a seedling shows any new character it is best to keep it intact for at least two generations, and to breed it in and in so as to establish its peculiarities. This applies to plants generally. Mr.Wm. K. Harris. The gentlemen had spoken of selecting the male and female (ieranium flowers for color, form, etc. He had also been governed in his selections by the apimrent strength, health, and other characteristics of the imrent stock. As a general thing he had been successful in the results obtained, seldom failing to get something superior. He had foiuid that, by scientific methods, the grower was certain to obtain at least a few flowers of superior quality ; whereas, if nature was vmaided, thousands might be grown without the appearance of anything having a quality above the ordinai-y average. Carnations. Mr. Thorpe. In raising seedling Carnations for winter flowering, it will be neces- ary to use for parents such varieties as have the tendency to flower early, combined witha.strong. free habit of growth. These are also much easier to cross in winter months than at any other season. How far nature yields to man's influence is well portrayed in the Carnation. When taken in hand to improve it some twenty years ago, there were but few free-flowering varieties; there were scarcely any with long stems, and most of them had split calyxes. In the early days of Carnations there was no choice ; now we can afford to be critical. Mr. Charles T. Starr. I originated the Butter- cup Carnation, as I might say, with my eyes shut, because I was without any known law to go by. It was produced from the cross of Edwardsii as the female parent and the old Astoria as the male parent. The color was from the Astoria. But the constitution of the Buttercup is entirely different from Astoria, the latter being rather a weak grower; audit is diflfieult to tcU whence the constitution of the Buttercup came. We are now striving to get a good Rose color with Grace Wilder as the male parent, and the Edwardsii as the female paient. We have a very bright orange by fertilizing Buttercuj) with Century. In regai-d to growing the seed after fertiliza- tion : About two days after the flower has been fertilized, if a union has been formed, the petals begin to curl. We then cut the jjctals off to the top of the calyx. That is necessary, as otherwise the seed will be likely to mold, as we generally grow the seed in the gi'eenhouse altogether in the spring months. We find February the better time for fertilizing the Carnation. As soon as the seed has become ripe we plant it at once, before it becomes di'y. I have known Carnation seed to come up and develop in three days. It is necessary to be very careful of the little seed- lings after they have developed their second leaf, else they will damp oft at the top of the ground. We then pot them in small pots, grow them for about a month, and set them out in the open ground. Chrysanthemums. Mr. Thorpe. Artificial fer- tilization of these is an operation requiring great care in manipulation. Select the variety you wish to seed, pot-plant;; with one or two flowers preferred; then, as the flowers open, with a pair of sharp scissors cut off the petals so as to expose the style at theii' base ; cover over with a piece of fine netting to prevent premature fertilization. Select for your pollen, or male parent, one which has the desired properties jou wish to combine with the seed parent ; then as the pollen ripens api>ly it to the style with afinecamel's-hairbrush or a tine feather. Chrysanthemum seed ripens in from three weeks to a month. Boses. Mr. Henry Bennet. With a crimson male you can get a crimson from a white female of the Hybrid Perpetual class, but no one has ever yet got the yellow into a Hybrid Perpetual. The yellow in the Polyantha Japonica once fei'- tilized will produce a yellow almost to a certainty. If you fertilize with the yellow variety you will almost certainly get a yellow with it,even though you operate on a white flower. One important matter: pay particular attention to secure a high quality in the male plant. You will get better progeny from a moderate female with a good male than from a thoroughly good female and only a moderate male. The better the parents the better the results. I have had many good results from a bad female, but never suc- ceeded in getting good flowers from a bad male. Mr. John N. May. In the hybridization, to attain a color, I find that we are obliged to select not only a good strong constitution, but very caret ullj' the colors we wish to have perpetuated. To improve the color I have found a more diffi- cult matter than antici|jated. We cannot create from Nature a primary color,— we can only assist Nature. Scarlet has never yet been produced in the Rose. Appreciating this fact, I made it the object of my reseai'ches to obtain the nearest possible approach to a scarlet. I took General Jacqueminot and fertilized it with Perle des Jardins. The result is a Rose ten shades brighter in color than any known at the present day. Potatoes. Mr. D. S. Hefifron. I have succeeded better with Potatoes than with othei-s things. I select first the mother plant, endeavoring to get a healthy constitution, and of the form I want perfected. For the male plant I select one of the reciuisite color and other characteristics to be reproduced. In crossing the two not all may have been better, but many of them were bettor than the parents. A good rule (I throw it out for what it is worth) is this: in the female parent get the strong, healthy-growing plant of the right height, and then in the male plant look to the color and the form of the flower. Insect Interference, etc. Mr. Bennett. I do not think people need be discouraged in hybrid- izing because of a fear of insects operating on the flowers. The scent may in some instances attract insects: I believe that the great attraction is the color of the petals. I took my cue in this from I04 POPULAR GARDENING. February, Charles Darwiu. When you ha^'e removed the petals you are free from insect interference, in my opinion. There have been many experiments tried by Sir John Lubbock with Bees on colored paper. The Bees are more attracted by the colors t han by the honey or anything you put on the tiowei's. So that if you take tlie coloi-s away you remove the attraction. I have never detected the insect fertilization on a ilower on which I have operated ; and I do not believe it will be de- tected in any case after such an operation. The seed will mature just as well. Most flowei-s are bi-sexual, and these are more difficult to treat than those which are of either sex, because you have to castrate the bi-sexual ones. If you want variations, the way is to take out the bearing organs before they bui-st. If you get seed from that part of the flower after that, you are certain to have a new variety, whether it is interfered with manually or by the insect kingdom. In \iew of the great demand that exists for distinct varieties, it is almost impossible, in our day, to keep pace with the times if we wait for varia- tions in the natural way. good colored large flowers. Still another says too much water is used. A florist near him who grows several thousand plants has a dugout or one sash frame connected with the foot of a Rose house and the drip is such that the plants are literally growing in a bog, and from these he gets splendid flowers. Case after case might be enu- merated where objections have been met with the very conditions objected to, and yet let another try to grow them under the same condi- tions and utter failure ensues. The Culture of the Violet. llHr. L. H. Foster, of Dorchester, before meeting of the Gardeners'' and Florists' Club of Boston, Dee, 6.] As to varieties, the Maria Louise is the best for the Boston market, as the color is dark and the keeping qualities the best. Had grown it from the same stock he began with eight years ago, and on the same land each year with one exception, when he greensoiled the land putting in oats first and plowing that in, then sow- ing Hungarian grass and turn- ing that under also. He plants out eight inches apart- in the rows with a space of twelve inches between the rows so they may be easily cultivated with a hoe, this being all the care" they receive until the latter part of August. There was no sign of disease until last year when about a dozen plants in 10,(XX) showed the ^ spot in August. To give good clumps for winter , feet wide traversing the en- closure. Inside the walk is a plain lawn, and also ( in the north and east sides, but the west and south sides (BB) are flower borders. Dwarf evergreens are planted here and there in the western border, and also on the northern lawn. Among the ever- greens Abutilons, Lantanas Rublier Plants and Hibiscuses are clustered around, while Salvias, Hollyhocks, Zinnias and others of the taller annuals and herbaceous perennials are massed next to the hedge, and smaller plants next to the walk. But the greatest beauty of this garden was no doubt the close evergreen screen on the west and north, and the copse on the east gave at least six week.s' longer enjoyment of its beau- ties than if it had been entirely exposed. The carriage drive was only a few feet distant, yet such was the closeness of the Purple Beeches, etc., between, that one could pass and not sus- pect the garden. The evergreen walk on the north (at top of engra\-ing), from which the garden was entered, was formed by an additional hedge.— Ohio Farmer. A Good Fnmigator. I look on a complicated f umigator as perfectly useless where large num- bers of houses are to be smoked; professional gardeners in general despise them. An old sieve answers much better; but the accompanying figure will give an excellent idea of a fumigator not often met with, although one of the very bestcontrivancesextant. Itis made of wrought- iron, and of any size from 1 foot to 3 feet in di- ameter. When the tobacco is once lighted it burns quite freely without any blowing, and gives off a dense volume of smoke in a remark- ably short time. It is easily set at work by placing a few glowing embei-s from the stoke- hole Are on the bottom and sprinkling damp Tobacco. When fairly alight the fumes may be cooled by spreading a damp sheet of coarse tiffany over the handle, letting it fall loosely aroinid the sides. The last precaution is worth adopting in the ca.se of Ferns when throwing up their young fronds, or for such Orchids as Odon- toglossums and Masdevallias, both being apt to be injured by hot smoke. The tenderest exotics will bear the densest cloud of Tobacco-smoke im'dginable, jirovidingitiscool. Itisheat.-notthe narcotic, that injures.— Gardening Illustrated. Large Raisin Consumers. The United States is the largest consuming country of Raisins in the world. Reliable authorities estimate the con- sumption at about 2.000.000 boxes of about twenty-two pounds each, which, at an average of $2 a box, shows an expenditure of $4,000,000 per annvira for one article in the dried fruit line. The amount referred to represents, say 1,000,000 boxes Valencia, 7.')O,0UO boxes California. 2.000.C00 boxes Malaga, and 100,000 boxes Smyrna. The crop of the world for the present season is esti- mated, in round numbers, at 0,500,000 boxes, about as follows : Valencia, 3.000.000 bo.\es ; Mal- aga. liOO.OCO boxes : California. 7.50;000 boxes ; and Smyrna, 2.000,1X10. The shipments of Valencia Raisins to this Country to date are .500,000 boxes, 300,0011 of which are now afloat.— Chicago Times. To Make a Quick Lawn. Our little patch of about seven scpiare rods was, in part, an old cel- lar hole where a building had been removed. The hole was filled at the bottom wth rubbish and in- ferior soil and gravel. The tof) two feet was good garden soil. After filling and leveling off to a desirable grade, fertilizer was sown on broadcast at the rate of about 12 jiounfls per square rod. A few refuse wood ashes wei-e also sown, and the whole cultivated thoroughly 2 to 3 inches deep with a hand cultivator. Plain Timothy and Red- top seed, about :*l cents worth, or $1 worth per acre, wa-s then sown freely, going over the ground twice each way to insure e\en .-owing. We also put on 3 or 4 (fuarts of Oats before cul- tivating the liust time. Grass seed is cheap now ; Redtop a little over $2 for a sack of a bushels, and Timothy only $2.75 per bushel. Oiu' lawn was seceded the loth da.v of September, and in just ;i4 days, October 13. the scythe wjis run o\'er it to cut off the oats, which were from 12 to Hi inches high, and had begun to look a little too hea\y and shady for the best good of the gra-ss, which measured 3 inches high at that lime, and was .so ExrLANATloN.— ^1 A A, Ameriran Arbor vitev hedyc I" feet high. B, border of flowers and dwarf errrrirerns, D, earriage drive, G, gravel, L,Iawn, A STUDY IN GARDENING, thick, gi'een and handsome as lawn glass that no one not having seen the work go on, and kept the dates in mind, woidd believe it was not a lawn of several months' standing. Done rightly at the right time, a bare spot can soon be covered with a carpet of green.— N. E. Farmer. Sweet Winter Flowers. The Allium Neapoli- tan hsis given me good satisfaction for bloom in winter. I treated mine just the sjime as Frccsias, both winter and summer; in fact, I believe like them, they may be potted at anj- time, just ac- cording as >'(ni want them to come into bhiorn. I repotted them this .year the first week in October: la,«t year not until November, perhaps the middle of the month. They soon put up their tinj- heads. I plant a goodly number of the small bulbs in a fi- inch pot. They bloom so well, and never fail to blooni, in such fine clustei's of flowers, |>ure whiti', and dainty enough to set Iwfore a queen. When they have done blooming, and perfect their growth, beginning to show signs of wanting to rest. I withhold water, and when dry I remi i\ e them to the cellar, there to remain until the next fall. I woidd not be without these sweet things, and fhc.v lu-e not expensive.- Floral Instructor. About Tomato Culture. Our favorite Tomato this year, as last, has been the Mikado. Tla- fruit is not all fierfectly smooth, but it is so much larger than any other kinds, and so early, it gives the most money. Wc are in great need of seeds saved from the.se finest specimens of the Mikado. Wc saved enough oui-selves to make perhaps a quarter of a poinid from the best specimens. It is a pretty hard matter to take your very largest, finest, and most beautiful Tomato early in ilie seas(m, and facrifice it for the seed: but when you do it, you have got soiue seed that will pxib- ably be worth soiuithing. Judging from our cx- lierience in Tomatoes this last season, I should dislike to take a fi\e-dollar bill for that (piarter of a pound. Almost everybody else complaimcl that they coidd not raise Tomatoes. We had an enoimous crop. While Tomatoes were rotting for everybody else, ours did not rot aimrticle; and as they were on the creek bottom, they suf- fered comjiaratively little from drought. One thing may hax e counted in our favor re.>-pecting freedom from rot. Early in the season, great whopjiitig Tomato worms came in such numbers that I directed one of the boys to make it his business to carefully pick olf every wornj daily. Just before the Tonuitoes came into bearing, the worms became scarcer and .scarcer; and when we gathered our fruit there was almost not a worm.— (Jleanings in liec Culture. Spring Pruning for Grapes. A correspondent of a Western paper ad\ ocates late Spring jirun- ing as a guard against being caught by a late frost. If pruned in the fall or winter, the cut surfaces heal, and the whole sap force is early in the spring directed to the buds and bearing io6 POPULAR GARDENING. February, wood on the closely pruned vine. But if the vine is left unpruned till the sap is well up, it then has the whole vine to expend its force upon and the development of the fruit-bearing wood is considerably later. By delaying pruning till spring he has escaped all loss from late frosts for years. Injury from bleeding when pruned in the spring after the sap starts has been greatly over- estimated. A few winters since the snow drifted in and completely filled the writer's \nneyard before the trimming had been done. It staid there all winter, keeping the frost out of the ground. As the ground did not freeze the sap started in the rtnes before the snow was aU gone, and on trimming them, a few days later, they bled severely; but they bore a good crop that year, and since, and gave no evidence that they were in any way injured by the severe bleeding. Two years ago they were caught in a late frost after the fruit buds had considerably developed, and as a consequence there were no grapes that year. Had this plan of late pruning been pur- sued the crop might probably have been saved. Chrysanthemum CuttingB. By the time the late varieties are in perfection many of the earlier kinds have growth in condition for propagation, and it is not good practice to defer attending to them, although creditable plants may be obtained from good cuttings taken as late as February or March. Plants are usually most satisfactory when raised with but little assistance of artificial heat, as in a cool frame, for instance. My mode of treatment is to insert the cuttings singly in small two-inch pots., filled with fine sandy soil, plunging the pots in fine coal ashes placed in a shallow frame, which should be elevated upon a bed in a house where ai-tiflcial warmth is only employed to e.xclude frost. Under this method cuttings take more time to root, but it is always attended with good results.— English Exchange. Electric Light and Plants. The electric light- ing of the winter palace at St. Petersburg has been accompanied by some unexpected and dis- agreeable results, the many beautiful ornamental plants which are used for decoration hartng been found to suffer greatly from the effect of the new system of lighting. It appears that the com- plete illumination of the room for a single night is enough to cause the leaves to turn yellow, dry up, and ultimately to fall ofl'. The celebrated collection of Palms at the palace have more es- pecially suffered serious damage. The sudden change from the suiUess days of the northern winter and from the subdued Ught of the plant houses to the blinding light of the banqueting halls is supposed to be the chief cause of the above. It has been shown beyond a doubt that the rapidity of the injurious action and its amount are in direct proportion to the intensity of the illumination, and plants standing partially shaded from the Ught, or in niches or other places, are found to remain uninjured. The artificially heated atmosphere of the rooms, tends without doubt, to greatly intensify the injurious effects of the light, and if the plants could only be sur- rounded by a steamy atmosphere, such as that in which they are grown, the effect would be minimized,if not obviated.— Gardener's Chronicle Celery in Beds. In certain cases there are de- cided advantages in this method. The plan is simply to set the plants in trenches, which are three or four feet in width, and excavated to the depth of three or four inches. The plants are set in rows crosswise of the bed; six inches apart in the row; rows being a foot apart. This is close planting, but if manure and water are used freely as fine Celery may be grown as by any method whatever. One banking is all that is contem- plated, as White Plume is the variety to be used. or if any other is preferred, more space must be left, so as to supply more earth, or tile may be employed. The most aiiparent advantages of this plan over planting in rows is that it admits of irrigation. If water can be had for a smaU area only, it can be economized and utiUzed to the fullest extent. At least fifty thousand plants can he grown on an acre in this way. which is better than can be done by the ordinary method. The cost of handling is about the same in either case, but when grown in beds, it is comparatively easy to protect the Celery from freezing, with straw. Those who propose to irrigate their Cel- ery will find this plan a good one to adopt, with a part of the crop at least. Boot Lease (Phylloxera) in California. We learn that the Phylloxera has at length become nearly as bad on the roots of the Grape-vines in California as in Europe. In some localities the plantations are nearly ruined. They are, how- ever, doing as the wide-awake rtneyardists of France are doing, grafting on the American stock. The varieties of the species Riparia are found to be the best. The insect attacks these vine roots as weH as the roots of the European, but on account of the very fibrous rooting char- acter, they do not suffer much. The young roots grow faster than the troublesome little insect can follow them. Hence these species of the Gi-apo are known as resistent Grapes. Julius Dressel, of Sonora, in California, has seventy acres grafted on many varieties of the Riparia section that are thri\-lng wonderfully, and graft- ing Grapes wiU soon be a leading industry in California.— Gardener's Monthly. Kitchen Garden Walks. Kitchen garden walks ai-e often neglected. This is a mistake, as a sub- stantial tidy walk in a vegetable garden is always valued. I do not approve of very wide walks here, if the walks are capable of accommodating two abreast, or allowing two wheelbarrows to pass each other without having to break down the edging, nothing more need be desired as a rule. There is no economy in deflcientl.v made walks, as they wiU take much more labor to keep them in repair than it would take to make them properly, and it is astonishing how little repair a thoroughly well-made walk requires. If the foundation is soft dig it out, as it is impossible to keep up a walk over a marshy bottom. Go down two feet if necessary, and in all cases of a defi- cient foundation go down eighteen inches at least. Put plenty of large stones in the bottom, and make the surface of some material that will bind. Keep the middle three Inches higher to every yard width of the walk than it is at the sides, and there will always be a comfortable footway no matter what the weather ma.v be. Edge with Box, tiles, stone, or wood,which should also be kept in trim.— Gardening World. soaking previous to cooking. Fresh Pineapple needs cooking a little before adding to the tapi- oca; the canned does not.— Country Gentleman. Cooking Pnines. Pour boiling water over the Prunes, let this remain half an hour, when the Prunes will be soft so you can remove the seeds. The seeds removed, wash the fruit, and to each quart add a teacup of sugar, or more if you like them very sweet. Cover with boUing water and stew until tender, keeping on plenty of juice. When done add any flavor you may wish. You will find them much nicer by taking out the seeds, and this enables you to find the wormy fruit, which makes Prunes objectionable. Prepared in this way they make excellent pies and the addi- tion of more sugar gives nice preserves. Squash Jam. Take a full-grown Squash, peel, cut in half, and scrape out the seeds; then cut them into Inch wide strips, and slice these as thin- ly as possible. To every pound allow 1 lb. of sugar, half-a-teaspoonful of salt, and one lemon. Chop the rind of the Lemons very finely, remov- ing the white pith, and cut them in slices, avoid- ing the pips. Put the Squash, lemon-rind and sUces, salt, and half the sugar into an earthen- ware pan; cover, and leave it to stand all night. In the morning strain away the liquid, and boil it for twenty minutes with the remainder of the sugar; then add the pieces, etc., and boU again until each piece looks perfectly transparent, and when turned into jars it will look much like marmalade. I find this recipe makes a most delicious jam.— English Farm and Home. Vegetable Products on the Table. Corn Cake. One quart of sour or butter-milk, a little salt, a piece of butter half the size of an egg, cornmeal enough for stiff batter, one tea- spoonful soda, and for a rich cake add two weU- beaten eggs. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Fried Pickled Cucumhers. Take large Cucum- bei-s from the pickle, and soak in tepid water un- til the salt is well out of them; sUce one-third of an inch thick, roll in flour, and fry in butter. These are very nice with cold meat or beefsteak. Orange Custard. One quart jar of juice, three eggs, tablespoonful of arrow root or corn starch, salt. Heat the juice boiling hot, poiu- on the beaten eggs mixed with butter, sugar, and thick- ening, and stir while it thickens; then pour into baked shells of pastry.— Pacific Fruit Grower. Apple or Cranberry Pie with Whipped Cream. Cook the fruit as for sauce, the Cranberries with or without skins, whichever is preferred. Make a nice pie-crust; put the fruit in, place in oven to bake. When done, spread over the top whipped cream, flavored with vanilla. These make most tempting and delicious dishes. Apple Hedge Hog. Two pounds of Apples pared and sliced, one and a-half pounds of white sugar, one-half pint of water. BoU all together till quite thick, and keep stirring to prevent burning. Put into a mold, turn out when cold, stick all over it split almonds. Serve with whipped cream.— Rural New Yorker. Potato Fritters. Boil and peel six large Pota- toes or a dozen smaller ones; mash them well, and add four weU beaten eggs, a little cream or milk, chopped Parsley, chives, salt and pepper, and mix the whole together. Raise on the end of a knife about a teaspoonful of this paste, and drop it into a pan of boiling lard or butter, when the paste will swell and form a light fritter. Cahhage Salad. Three eggs well beaten, one tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful butter, one teaspoonful mustard mixed with one-half a small cup of good \nnegar, salt and pepper, one pint finely cut Cabbage. Melt the butter in a tin on the stove, mix the other ingredients to- gether and put into the pan; when hot add the Cabbage, keep stirring till it comes to the boil. When done, put in a dish; garnish with small green and yellow Celery tops.— EuralNew Y'orker. Fruit Tapioca Pudding. Pick over and wash three-fourths cup of tapioca, cook it in one and one-half pints boiling water one hour or until transparent; add one saltspoonful of salt, one- fourth cup of sugar, one cup of any kind of fruit or of grated Pineapple, two Bananas and two Oranges cut fine. Serse with sugar and cream. Tapioca should be stirred at first to pre- I vent lumps. The pearl tapioca does not need HOUSE PLANTS. Begonias of the free-blooming sorts should now be In their glory. Water the plants but moderately. Camellias are impatient to close confinement In a dry atmosphere, hence should have air freely (but not cold draughts), in all suitable weather, and a frequent sponging of the leaves on both sides. Dutch Bulbs should continue to be brought in from the cellar or pit. At this season they grow and bloom remarkably well. Such as are In gla.sses must have the water kept properly replenished. Fuchsias that have been at rest should be started up, if this has not yet been done. Those that have made some growth may have slips. If there be strong ones, taken from them, to root. As to pruning, the state of the plants and one's ta.ste should govern. As a rule, we think old plants are more satisfactory for being cut back at this .season and grown In a bushy form. Young plants usually reach a better shape for the first year, with little cutting back, unless it be main shoots occas- ionally, for inducing symmetry. Guard agamst their becoming pot-boimd; growth must be constant. General. From now on it Is easy to keep healthy plants looking well. But It will not do to grow care- less, either as regards general requirements, or caring for them in the cold nights yet to come. These fresh movements in growth must be backed by treatment to ensure the formation of healthy roots and wood. On Watering see imder Plant Culture Under Glass. Geraniums, especially of the Scarlet or Zonale class, should be showing fine sUps for rooting now. All the plants, with the exception of some wanted for present bloom, may be severely cut back tor propagation; the slips of such will make fine plants for bedding, while the old ones will come out well for summer bloom. Heliotrope slips struck now make fine plants for summer. Shift old plants as they get pot-bound. Oleanders. If one cares for flowers In May, start up the plants now. As growth begins, water well and give some stimulant to the roots. Plants in cellars and pits may well be treated to air occasionally for hardening them. If the earth In the pots or boxes Is very dry, give water. Pruning. As a rule amateurs are too afraid of the knife. In soft-wooded growths, one can hardly prune too freely for good shape; with It, fine, bushy forms, springing from the ground, result; without It, long-legged plants that cannot be handsome. Roses, of the monthly section, will begin to show growth and bloom. Avoid keeping them too warm; give a good sunny position. By all means keep down the greenfly. Hybrid Perpetuals, potted In the fall and wintered in pots, may come Into heat, and will quickly start up. When buds appear a stimulant like liquid manure becomes desirable. Sweet Alyssum- Propagate from slips or seed. Seed Sowing. Kinds like MImuIus, Maurandia, lee Plant. Sensitive Plant Snapdragon and Chinese Pluks should now be sown for good plants for spring and 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 107 summer decoration. All annuals may be sown In boxes for early bloom, by the end of the month. LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN, Bedding Plants. Arrangt- early for whatever stock will be wanted, whether you raise yom* own or buy. If to be bought, contracts may be made with florists thus early at reduced rates, usually. Hedges of deciduous kinds should receive their winter pruning In mild spells. Mice often tlo great damage by girdling the trees under the snow line. Prevent by tramping down the snow occasionally. Labels, stakes and like necessaries to the garden should be made or bought now, for spring use. Pansies. If no stock has been brought over, by sow- ing seeds now, In moderate heat imder glass, good spring-blooming plants may be raised. Flans. Now should be a good season for reading and planning. The main operations to be caiTled out the coming season should be studied and decided on before outdoor activity opens. Well-laid plans not only tend to the making of bett^T gardens, but they are economi- cal. In the sense of allowing the work later to be turned off with the best possible advantage. Seed Sowing. At the South, hardy annuals may be sown out-of-doors. In the North, annuals for specimens and summer bedding such as Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths. Portulacas, Schizanthus. Phloxes, Brachyeomes, Stocks, Tropreolums, Cobaeas, Lophos- phernums, AcrocIInlums, and the kinds named under The House Plants, may be sown In heat this month. Shrubs. In the South, pruning of the?e may now take place, but further north, next month will be about the right time. In approaching these with knife and shears It must be borne in mind not to treat all kinds alike. For instance, the class Including Roses, Hardy Hydrangea, Burning Bush, CoronlUa, Amorpha, Hyper- icum, Althaeas, Late-flowering Splneas.and a few others that bear their bloom on the new growth of the season, may be cut back very severely at this season with good residts. But about all other shrubs besides these named produce their flowers from buds on the old wood, and to prune these now is to prune away just so many flowers. On such little more pruning should be done at this time than to cut to Improve the general shape, leaving most of the work to be done just after the blooming season, some months further along. PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. Angle-worms in the soil Increase rapidly as sun-heat Increases. The perfect remedy: soak the soil thoroughly about once a month with lime wat«r. Carnations for next winter's flowering should all be struck from cuttings before this month Is out. Later then, keep the young plants robust by free airing. Flowering plants should be gone over and restaked, tying them out larger if needing this. Cytisus, when done blooming, should be cut back. Insects come out with great rapidity at this season of high sun-heat and closeness. No pains must be spared to keep them down. Prevention Is better than cure, hence the usual remedies of fumigating twice a week with tobacco smoke, or the use of nycotyl (see page 98), for Green-fly and others; syringing daily for Red Spider and so on. In houses of high heat, must not be neglected. Scale and Mealy Bug increase more slowly than these, but do not yield to treatment .so well. Hand-picking, washing or brushing, the best remedies. Mignonette Is one of the annuals that may be sown now to good purpose. Then the plants will, with the sunnier months to come, make rapid growth, and by the time of mild weather will be much prized for win- dow and conservatory decoration. Orchids that beglu to grow during the time they are In flower should be shifted Immediately the beauty of the flower is past. The best materials for the shift are good fibrous peat, sphagnum moss, broken crocks and charcoal. Aerldes, Vandas, Saccolablums, Dendrobes, Coelogynes and several other genera do best in Sphag- num with small crocks or sharp sand. Cattleyas, Loelias, Oncldlunis and Odontoglossums do equally well in peat mixed with crocks and a few bits of Charcoal; whilst some do best in a mixture of peat and moss. Pelargoniums are In their making time now. Water freely, especially in warm, bright days, to set every rootlet In action. Overwaterlng is bad, how^ever, caus- ing, as (t does, spotted leaves. Potting. All young slips should go into jjots as soon as roots appear. Use small pots, and light, rich soil, potting rather flrmly. In potting or shifting plants, ■ place broken pots or gravel In the bottom of every pot larger than tiu-ee Inches across, for drainage. In pots six inches or more across, there should be on top of the hard drainage a layer of sphagnum or hay before filling In soil, to keep the lower drainage from clogging. Roses. From now on Is a favorite season for propa- gation. Select the cuttings from the best and strongest wood of recent growth; a bad cutting must make a bad plant. From the time the cuttings are put in until the young plants are fit to set out. they must never be neglected for want of water, as this wguld stunt them, a condition that is always bad. Salvia Splendens as to stock plants, must not have ihe growth greatly checked atany time In the winter, for if so, it will be dlfhcult to get up good plants for next year. Ample root room, and a cool temperature, suit the plants at this season. Stove plants need general going over at this time or a little later. Those that have been blooming In the winter require to be cut back, and encouraged to break; then to be shifted to larger pots If needful, or have top- dressings. Those In flower must be kept dry overhead. Verbenas detest any but fresh, sweet soils. If the plants are at a standstill, by shaking out and repotting In rich, fibrous new earth they will Improve quickly. Keep near the glass and give plenty of air. Watering. Let no plant suffer from dryness, none from over-watering, to avoid both of which needs a watchful eye. Notice which kinds dry out soonest— there Is a great difference as regards this, also In which parts of the house dryness Is first to be met. To water all kinds alike Is to do great injustice to some. FRUIT GARDEN ANDORCHARD. Currants and Gooseberries. If not yet pruned and manured this should be promptly attended to. Eggs of the tent caterpillar can now be readily dis- tinguished and should be promptly removed. They can be found deposited In clusters near the ends of twigs. Firming the soil, as soon as ever It thaws, over the roots of Strawberries or any other plants or shrubs set in the fall, by tramping. Is a good stroke in early spring. Grape Trellis. Repair If they require it. It will pay to paint them, and now Is an excellent time to perform such work. If any vines were not pruned in the au- tumn, do it in mild spells now. Manuring. Top-dressing such orchards as are not growing with vigor may now be done. Spread the ma- nure, which should be old and fine, evenly. Old Trees to have all accumulations of moss and loose bark scraped off, and given a wash of soft soap, mixed with enough water to apply with a brush. Pruning of fruit trees to be proceeded with whenever the opportunity offers, selecting a time when the wood Is not much frozen. Recording maps of the orchard aufi fruit garden should be kept to ensure against loss of names and con- fusion, by the accidental losing of labels. Such are easily made. Use smooth, strong, heavy paper, striking lines and cross lines as many as there are rows of trees or plants, and then write the name of each variety, clearly, in its proper place. Winter Covering of Strawberries and the like will require looking after to see that It Is not blown off. VEGETABLE GARDEN. Asparagus Beds. If not already done, to be given a good dressing of stable manure. A dressing of salt can also be applied with benefit in localities distant from the sea coast. Two or more pounds of salt to the square yard Is considered ample. At the South, Asparagus, Rhubarb and Horse-radish beds may be made. Potatoes may be planted, and In the more southern parts the seeds of Squashes and Melons, provided some means of protection are at hand against hard weather. The most successful gardeners are always ready to take some risks in starting their crops early. See last month under this head. Cold Frames require close attention as milder weather approaches. Open when the weather is not severe, harden off their contents for early setting. Lettuce sown In a box in the window, hot-bed or green-house now wUl give nice plants for frames or a waiTii spot In the garden In April, to mature In May. Curled Silesia is one of the best for early. Manure for garden use and hot-beds to be accumu- lated. Turn the heap as often as It becomes hot. Mice often prove troublesome around hot-beds, cold frames, etc. A few traps should be among them at all times, and thus prevent a more serious loss. Onions. If the.se become frozen, cover with straw or salt hay, to prevent alternate freezings and thawings. Rhubarb can be easily forced from now on by cover- ing the roots with boxes or small barrels, and covering well with heating material. Root Crops. Such as Salsify, Parsnips, etc., to be dug wbenever the ground is sufficiently thawed. Seeds. Stock on hand to be promptly overhauled, lists to be made out of what is wanted, and the supply procured at once. Trenching and Draining of unoccupied land to be proceeded with whenever the opportunity offers. Vegetable Cellars. Keep as cool as possible, by air Ing freely In all but freezing weather. Remove prompt- ly all worthless vegetables. FRUITS AND VECETA BLES U N DER GLASS. Asparagus in forcing frames or pits should be freely aired whenever possible. Maintain rapid growth by attention to heat, watering and ventilation, and so ensure tender shoots. Roots for succession may now be started Into growth. Cucumbers require attention as to stopping all side shoots at the second joint and to the fertilization of the flowers. Maintain a temperature of 65*^ or Hf by night, with liJt. or 15*^ higher by day. Give air whenever possible, but avoid cold draughts. Seeds may be sown and beds prepared for later crops. Dandelion roots lifted and placed In boxes may be brought Into growth at Intervals to ensure a succession. Grapery. Keep the late houses as <-ool as possible by airing freely In all but stormy weather. Houses just started, to be given a temperature of 50", gradually In- creasing as growth commences. Vines In bloom require close attention to avoid damp, which will certainly destroy the flowers. In the earlier houses thinning Is In order as soon as the berries are the size of small Peas. Lettuce. Water sparingly during dull, damp weath- er; air freely as the opportunity offers. Planting to be made for successlonal use. Seed may now be sown to produce plants for early spring use. The Early Forcing Head and Bost<»n Market are desirable for this purpose. Mushrooms. Manure Ui be prepared and beds started for successlonal crops. Parsley growing In beds or boxes to be given liquid manure at least twice a week. Peaches and Nectarines. In cool or slightly heated houses to be pruned, tied up, and the larger branches and trunks painted with soap and sulphur. Keep the houses cool by airing freely. When In bloom, fertilize the flowers carefully. Strawberries growing In heat may be given liquid manure at times, until the fruit shows Indications of ripening, when it should be withheld and the fruit ex- posed to the sun and light as much as possible. Another lot may be brought in for succession. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. "Worth Noting. With Melons and g-arden vege- tables we have obtained the best of results from the use of hen manure.— Poultry Keeper. Crude petroleum does not evaporate so quickly as kerosene. It is therefore better as an applica- tion upon henroosts to destroy lice, since it clogs the insects' breathing pores more certainly, while its odor IS etiually as hateful to them as the latter. After snow storms always clear some portions of the ground around the hen-houses for the comfort and health of the stock. Standing on snow is not as good as on earth. If the fowls cannot get off the snow, they crowd too much in the houses.— Rural New Yorker. Order Some Gourd Seed, The Mirror and Far- mer remarks that when a hen goes on the nest and places her warm body close to a cold glass nest egg she is liable to contract cold. Glass eggs should not be used in winter. We have known hens to roll such nest eggs out of the nest, as they soon learn to beware of the cold sensation- but they also learn to roll all other eggs out of the nest as well, which may cause them to freeze The best nest eggs are the nest-egg Gourds' which anybody can easily grow, the seeds being for sale by all reliable seedsmen. It is better to have no nest eggs than to use glass or porcelain at this season, while stale-eggs are abominable. A Neglected Income. One of the little leaks is the neglect of the poultry droppings. A far- mer will spend a day in carting some fertilizer for which he has to pay a good price, when for the same time spent he might have had some- thing just as valuable by carefully collecting the dro]ipings from under the roosting fowls The manure from fifty fowls, properly com- posted with dry loam and swamp muck, in the proportion of one part of the former to three of the latter, should furnish hill dressing for at least two acres. Even the soil of the yard to which they are confined if taken off once a year to the depth of two or three inches is an excel- lent fertilizer.— Monitor. The Proper Time to Market. There is such a thing as hat<*hing out the chicks too early In order to give an idea of the prices, we mention the New Yoik market tpiotations for broilers during several months. January and February those of from two to throe pounds per pair sold at from 25 t<) 27 cents per i»oiinrl. ly? {h) When and how much? (c) Could it be applied on top of the mulch of straw? 600. Fertilizer for Raspberry. 1 have Raspberries partly set in the spring of 1887, partly the fall previous, what commercial fertilizer would you recommend for them and litiw to be applied?- E. H., Craicford Co., Pa. 601. Pears and Plums for Iowa. Kindly name two or three varieties of the earliest and best of each for general planting.— J. J., loica City. Toira. tt02. Coal Tar and Peach Trees. Should like to know proper time to apply coal tar to Peach trees. A correspondent recommends it but does not say when to apply.— F. W. R., Bradford, Tcnn. ai3. Plums in Sod. On .some thin, gravelly land I sowed orchard grass last spring. How would it do to set Damsou Plums on this piece, Ifi feet each way and not cultivate for a few years to save the grass. fi)A. Shropshire Damson Plum. Is this variety more prolific than the old Blue? Would it succeed here? The old Blue pays here.— A. B., Mt. Washington, Ky. ('■II;"). Lime for Grapes. Is lime beneficial or injurious to Grape-vines when spread thinly and turned in?— .J. M. K., Lindsay, Ontario. ti06. Quince on Muck. Will Quince do well on muck that is somewhat moist underneath the surface?- A., Battle Creek, Mich. (H.I7. Increasing Nut Trees. I should like to know how this is d(jne. I cleft grafted nine Chestnuts with the Paragou and only got one to grow, and this made a flue growth.— E. C, Euclid, Ohio. i'M. Gooseberry for Maine. What would be the best one for us to set out in this State?— C. J. D., Weld, Maine. (KI9. Peach from Northern China. D. B. W. speaks of a hardy Peach or Peaches from Northern China, lately introduced. Do you think it would prove hardy here 45'^ N. Latitude, ^xhere we have 45* below zero nearly every winter V—w, S. W., Shaivno, Wis. filO. Lettuce in the Greenhouse for Profit. Will you please give instructions on forcing this crop in the greenhouse, and oblige P. H., Satid Beach, Conn. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 510. Grape Question. The Worden Grape is with us just ten days earlier than the Concord. The White Ann Arbor fruited for the first time last season, but was taken by the bii-ds, so I had no opportunity to test it. Sweetwater I have not had for twenty years, hence have forgotten how early or late it is; nor do I care, as Moore's Diamond is equal to it in quality, with the addi- tion of beins" larger and hardy.— y. Miller. .526. Wormy Apples. These are caused by the larva of the insect commonly known as the cod- ling moth. The perfect insects, which ai*e small moths, appear in the greatest number on the warm evenings, about the first of June, and lay their eggs in the blossom end of the small fruit. In a short time these eggs hatch and the worm or grub eats its way until it reaches the core, when the fruit npens prematurely and drops to the ground. Then the insect leaves the fruit and creeps into the crevices underneath the rough bark or other hollow places on the tree, and spins its cocoon. In this it remains until the en- suing June, when it emerges as a perfect moth. The readiest way of destroying them will be tu gather u]) and destroy all fallen fruit daily. It is said that if a piece of woolen cloth is tied around the trunk of the tree as soon as the fruit commences to fall the worms will collect under- neath it and in this way many may be caught and destroyed. Cleaning the tree by scraping and washing the tnuik and larger limbs will also destroy many.— C. E. P. 525. Preparing for Strawberries. In order to secure a satisfactory result the StrawbeiTy must be given a deep, well eniiched soil, and if possi- ble choose land on which some hoed crop, such as Potatoes, Beets or Celery, has been grown the year previous, and this should be given as much well decayed stable or barn-yard manure as can be well worked under with the plow. Plowing should be done as deeply as possible and then a thorough harrowing given, and if convenient finish by rolling, as this will make it much easier to mark out the rows, which may be placed about two feet apart. The i)lants may stand one foot apart in the row. Phintinji' shmild be done as early in the spring as posyililc. Just as soon as the ground can be properly prci)ared and just pre- vious to or after rain. In planting use a dibble, and be careful to keep the roots straight with their full length in the ground. Do not set the plants deeper than they previously stood, and firm the ground around the roots thoroughly. After growth commences the plants must be freely cultivated, and all runners pmmpty cut off as soon as noticed, until the gi-ound lirt-omes frozen in the fall, when a mulch of straw or salt hay should be given. This mulch should be re- moved from the crowns of the plants early in the spring by means of a short stake. The varieties usually "grown for market purposes ai'e the Wil- son, AVarren, Sharplessaud Manchester. Charles Downing and Kentucky are among the best varieties for home use, and a neai'-by market, but rather soft for shipping.— C. E. P. 576. Cotton Cloth for Hot-beds. Use the thin- est unbleached muslin— costing from five to six cents a yard— and tack it tightly over a frame to fit closely the top of the hot-bed. Into a pint of unboiled linseed oil beat one egg thorc)ughly, and with a paint brush, free from paint, give a coating to the top side of the muslin. The oil makes the cloth water-proof, and the e^g ren- ders it translucent. When very cold, or at liight, spread an extra cover over the hot-bed. With such a vttYOv there is no danger from sun-burn- ing, and the plants thrive admirably.— A. H. E. 572. Pruning the Quince Tree. Quinces, as a rule, do not need much pruning; they merely re- quire the branches to be kept open. The falling off of the fruit before it comes t(.) maturity is probably due to some defect at the root. No amount of pruning will induce your tree to be fruitful; what it requires is more root room and more moisture. I have never seen anyone grow Quinces better than cottagers who plant the trees by the side of a hole into which they throw slops from the house, and make heaps of garden refuse over the root.>*. Trees so treated I have seen bending down with fruit in the autumn. 533. Blanching Celery. Celery keeps best when stored in a trench about ten inches wide and of a depth exactly the height of the Celery. It .should be dug on dry days only, and placed in the trench as near perpendicular as possible. No earth should be taken with the roots, and the plants should be packed closely. That which is wanted for use in December should be placed In the trenches before the first of November. It should then be co\'ered with shutters, placed in such a position as to shed the rain, and on the approach of cold weather gi'adually covered with straw, salt hay or leaves to keei) it from freezing. This covering should be very gi'adually applied in order to prevent heating. Thus treated it will keep well and blanch i)erfectly. For use from the first of January and later on it should not be put in the trenches until after the first of No- \'ember, and care should be taken to ap]>ly the covering gradually until about the first oi Janu- ary, when it should be about a foot in depth. Celery for winter use should never be banked up when growing, but merely handled, and this c< )nsists in drawing only enough earth around the plants to keep them in an upiight position. This handling should not be done until towards the end of September.— Chahles E. Parnell. 570. Propagating Large-leaved Begonias. These, which are often termed fiI:)rous-root*:d. or ornamental-foliaged, Begonias, to distinguish them from the flowering tuberous-rooted section, are increased by layering the leaves on sandy soil in a moderate warmth. Take leaves that are fully developed, or nearly so— old battered leaves should be avoided— with not more than an inch of stalk. Cut through the principal midribs on the back of each in six or eight places, and with some very small hooked wooden pegs, fasten them down to the surface of well-drained boxes or pans of light sandy soil; or a few stones will answer the purpose almost lis well as pegs. Place these in a rather close and moist house at about 70*^, or on a gentle hot-bed, keep the soil just moist; shade from strong sun, and in two or three weeks roots and a small tuber will be formed at each cut, and shortly afterwards a tiny leaf wnll be seen to i-ise, forming the embryo plant. When these are strong enough, divide and pot them off singly, and afterwards shift on as required. About the best mixture in which to root the leaves is composed of equal parts of loam, Cocoanut-fiV)er, and coarse sand, with a httle leaf-mold if this is at hand.— A, H. E. 552. Wintering Fansies. We think the safest course for you to pursue would be to retain the sash and protect the plants Ughtly with marsh hay, or, better yet, evergreen branches. Then about one mouth before Easter uncover the plants and transfer them with plenty of frozen soil into heat for forcing their bloom. Possibly as far south as your place they might be brought into bloom \\ithout tne aid of artificial heat, but we hardly think so. They could also be grown imder sash, but the management should be such as to prevent the perils of alternate freezing and thawing, a frozen up state being the preferable one. The danger would be from sun excitement, and it would be to prevent this that we would prefer the course suggested.— A. H. E. 578. Land for Strawberries. Plant on the higher land. Although this fruit dehghts in moisture at the root in fruiting time, still the lilants are not found to succeed on damp alluvial soils, winter heaving being one of the chief diffi- culties. By ha\"ing the soil rich and keeping it well cultivated even the liking for moisture peculiar to the plant at fruiting time can be well proWded for, droughts notwithstanding. 581. Heating a Hot-bed With Lamp. In last year's volume, February issue, page SO,im engrav- ing of an oil-heated hot-bed was given. The main features were back and front walls of double matched stuff against upright studs, the former being about a foot higher than the latter. On toj) of these the sash bars and sash reclined. In the bottom of the frame was a board floor, and on this an ordinary two-burner oil-stove for providing heat was phiced. Over the stove and about three inches above it a piece of sheet iron was su()ported. which served to diffuse the heat outwardly fmm the top of the lamp. To fiu-ther provide for the even distrit)uti()n of heat a false bottom of tnatched stuft' was placed across the bed abmit one io.)t above the lamp^ forming a lamp (MunpurtuHnt to the bed. This bottom extended t<> witliin three inches of the side of the bed all around and supplied the necessary openings for the heat to ascend at the outside of the bed, where most needed. Some large holes were liorrd about midway between the cent«r and e;u-h side of the bed to further C(iualize the heat distributit n. To this lamp compartment an I'Utsidc diMir was provided through which to manage the lamp and for admitting the light current of air needed for combustion. The bot- tom of the bed which contained the soil or sand (to a depth of six or seven inches) was raised about 8 inches above the false bottom referred to. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 109 542. Black Walnut Culture. Plant the nuts with the soft shuck on, abf)ut thi-ee inches deep, in rich, mellow soil, soon as convenient after they fall, and in the field where they are to grow permanently. This soft shuck is Nature's nutri- ment for the young plant. The Black Walnut, Hickory, Tulip, and the tap-ro(jt tribe generall.v are apt to be harmed by transplanting and cut- ting off the tap-root, however necessary that unnatural process ma.v Ix^ to trees grown *iu the nursery and first started in beds. By cutting off the tap-root you may force out enough lateral roots uistead to make it live, but not to thrive as it would otherwise have done. It is satv- to study the habits of each kind (»f tree, and tu follow Na*- ture. To give one of mans' illustrations, the fine groves on the farm of Gov. Morton, in Nebraska, were planted in the manner above commended. These Black Walnuts were twenty-five years old when I saw them, some of them being four feet and two inches in girth two feet above the ground. This shows the Black Walnut to he a rapid grower.— B. G. NonTHRirp, Oititaii, Conn. Ml. Hydrant Water in Sose Forcing. This is not in any sense injurious when used for syring- ing Roses, but wai-mer water, or that more near the temperature of the house, would be prefer- able in case it could be obtiiined.— ('. E. P. 542. Black Walnut Culture. In general they do well on any soil, but thrive best on one that is deep and rich. Plant one or two-year-old trees, and as early in the spring as possible. 1 would plant them in rows five feet apart each way, as by so doing a row of Carrots, Beets, or Parsnips, or some other root crop, can be grown between them tintil the trees require the space. As the trees increase in size, remove every other one from time to time, as occasion may require. The only culture that they require will consist in keening them clear from weeds by means of the cultivator and hoe. There is only one kind. Difference in color is owing to the difference in soil. The better the soil, darker the color.— C.E.P. .543. CrotonCarrieri. Thisisdescribedbyjohn Saul, of Washington, D. C, in his Plant Cata- logue for 1KK7, as being a superb CVoton, with finely-variegated foliage.— C. B. P. 544. Triumph Aster. Seed of this variety can be obtained of J. M. Thorburn & Co., No. 15 John Street, New York.— C. E. P. 546. Sweet Lavender. The Sweet Lavender Lavemlula rera is a low shrub, growing about three feet high, a native of the South of Europe. The leaves are narrow, of a heavy green color, and the flowers are borne upon long and slender spikes. They are delightfully fragi-ant, owing tn a volatile oil, which in various forms is used as a perfume, and on account of its stimulant, aro- matic qualities often used in medicine. It can lie increased by seeds, or cuttings, the latter taking root very easily. Seed should be sown as early in the spring as possible, in a well-drained pot or pan fllled with turty loam. Sow thinly, (•over slightly, and jilace in a warm, moist situa- tion, as close to the glass as possible. As soon as the young plants are strong enough to handle, transplant into other pans or boxes similarly prepared, placing them about two inches apart, and grow on until the weather becomes settled, when they can Ije planted outside. They will do well in any good garden soil. In this vicinity the plant is rather tender, and requires the pro- tection of a cool cellar, cold frame or greenhouse during winter, so that the above directions apply to its care when grown as a border plant.— C. E. P. .547. Arbor Vitae Hedge, The American (r/iiya iiccidentalM is the very best variety. The plants should be placed from one to three feet apart, the distance depending upon the height of the trees, as for instance trees, a foot in height should be placed one foot apart. As there is no partic- ular difficulty in transplanting them, you can pro- cure such sized trees as seem most suitable for your purpose, and plant about the 1st of May. It is best to open a trench, or work in a supiJlj' of well-decayed manure before planting. Keep well cultivated for a year or two, and trim into shape at least once a .year.- C. E. P. 5.50. Salt for Quince Trees, I consider salt of little or no \alue, and would not bother to apply it. Rather plant in a deep, well-etiriched soil, and keep them clean and free from weeds by good cultivation. Then apply a dressing of well- decayed manure e\ er.v fall, and fork it in early the next spring. — C. E. P. .552. Wintering Fansies. Do not remove the sash, and protect fvtmi frost at night by means of straw, mats or shutters. Air freely whenever the opportunity offers. Keep the plants free from weeds by stirring the gr(»und bctwi-cu them occasionally. See that they are prcipirly supjplied with water, and after March 1st gi\ e liquid ma- nure at least twice a week.— C. E. P. (i04. Shropshire Damson Flum. Shropshire Damson is equally productive, larger, and better quality than the common Blue Damson. If either do well with you, plant largely. There is no present danger of overstocking the markets with such good canning Plums.— D. B. W. 551. Manure for Small Fruits. Stable manure can be supplemented to gieat advantage with bone dust or wood ashes for stiawbeiTies, but for all other small fruits I prefer it alone. No danger of too much if properly applied.— C. E. P. 603. Coal Tar and Peach Trees. To prevent injury to the trees from the Peach Ijorer coal tar should be ajiplied directly after the trees bloom. It is rather a heroic and hardly safe preventive at best. For perfect safety from the borer the soil should be taken away, so as to expose at least three inches of the trunk, the tar applied, and then covered with strong liglit-iolon-d ] paper putting the soil back tohiild the piii'ci- in place. The old plan of banking the soil up ;iniuiiil the stem firmly eight to twelve inches diiiitlv after blooming, anil taking it away the middle Of the following August, and destroying all borers vis- ible at that time each year, is safest and best. Many intelligent men are now advocating bud- ding all Peaches on Chickasaw Plum seedUngs a foot above ground, clainjing that this plan will I )re vent borers, and yellows, and give more pro- ductiveness and hardihood of tree. Peaches may also be budded in the branches of this Plum for farther north.— D. B. WiER. 603. Plums in Sod. One could force a success in such a case, but it would be laborious and ex- pensive. To succeed, one should spade u)) a circle six feet across, a spit and a half deep. Make all fine, then plant the tree in the center. Then, two or three weeks after planting, .stir up, and fine the surface at least six inches deep. Then in a few days mulch the whole worked sur- face four or fl^e inches deep with partially-rotted dung, straw or chips. Early the next spring turn this under, and in a few weeks cultivate and mulch again. It would be very much cheaper to plow deeply, mark both ways straight with a double jjlow, plant, cultivate thoroughly, and keep on cultivating and manuring when needed, so long as your orchard lives.— D. B. Wier. 605. Lime for Grapes. As a rule soils have enough lime for the Grape. Where there is plenty already it would do no good, and no harm, unless applied in great excess. Where lime is wanting, or the land has a tendency to sourness or mucklness, it would be of benefit. i Ine peculiar value of applications of lime where the season is short is that it induces early and sound ripening of woody growth.— D. B. Wier. 606. Quince on Muck. Quinces should do well on muck, if it is not too wet, and so fine and close in texture as to be impermeable to air and rain water. Where quite moist it would be best to plow in lands the width of the rows, then plant- ing on the ridges. If the muck is of a sourish nature it should have a good coating of hard- wood ashes, with an occasional sprinkling of salt after the bushes are established.— D. B. Wier. 607. Increasing Nut Trees. We have had good success by cleft grafting the Chestnut quite low in the stock, waxing, and then raoimding the soil up to the tnp bud of the graft, pressing it firmly around it, and have succeeded fairly well by splice-grafting in the branches. When this is done the scion and twig grafted shfiuld be very nearly of a size. Side grafting near the surface and mounding up should be good with the Chestnut, for it is best with the Walnut, Hickory, and many other things. Most of the modes of grafting are fairly illustrated in Web- ster's Unabridged Illustrated Dictionary, ex- cept the modern side-grafting. In it we cut a sloping cut downward through bark and wood, then cut the graft wedge-shaped, same as in cleft-grafting. Insert the graft by bending the top of the tree from the cut, then cut it ott' a half-inch above the top of the cut, leaving a rim of bark all around the top of the stock; then wax and bank up. In this way the fine English Walnut grafts readily on the Black Walnut, and, we have read, the Black Walnut on the Butter- nut, and we suppose the Pecan on mfist of the Hickories. In all cases the scions should be in perfect condition.— D. B. Wier. 608. Gooseberry for Maine. For ordinary up- land Houghton SeedUng is the most profitable, it being the hardiest, most thrifty, and very i)ro- ductive. The fruit is small, which is no detri- ment for home use, but will not probabl.v .sell as well as the larger varieties in a large market, although it makes the best preserves, tin a deep, mellow, moist soil, the Downing makes a large bush, is equally productive, and a miu-h larger berry. Smith's Improved isverygncid, but liable to mildew here. The Houghton never has. It is my main croji.— E. W, Mehritt, Hoidlon, Me. .582. Keeping the Hibiscus Dwarfed. If the tops were pruned to correspond with the roots cut off by the course you refer to no material in- jury would accrue to the plants, and they could no doubt be well grown in this dwarfed form. But at best the treat III i_-nt is some what unnatural. and to our notion less satisfactory than to ha\c young fresh plants coming on totake the place of the older ones when the latter bettnme un- wield.v. We have seen sti much working and fussing to keep ui> overgi'own plants that we have bet-ome somewhat tired of it, and do not hesitate to advise instead the course suggested m9. Montbretia Pottsi not Blooming. Some people Hnd it difficult to flower this plant. I have no trouble in getting it to bloom if I take care of its leaves and keep them green— (. e.. if they chose to remain s fire each au- tumn we overcame the trouble easily. The fact ot the water surging u|i and down iii the supply cistern is a sure sign that the air cannot escape from the pipes. Are you sure that the tlow-i)ipe does not dip, as if it docs, however slightly, the water will have great difficulty in foniiig its way along it. See that this is at least le\el— it ought to rise a little-that the return pi|ie falls, and fix an air pipe as above indicated, and you will find that circulation will go on all right. 577. Bouvardias After Flowering. Like all plants, these do better to be treated for a period of rest after blooming. They requre for flowers a warm greenhouse, of a temperature of 4.5° to .50° as the lowest at night. When they cease flowering keep them rather dry at the root, set them in the coolest part of the house, cut them down pretty close, and let them have a month's rest ; then put them into the warmest iiart of the house, or, if planted out, give them more heat, and water moderately. They will soon push forth abundance of shoots, which, when long enough, may be pinched back, did plants may be shaken out, and repotted in light, rich soil, and grown on for early flowering. A mixture of turfy loam, leaf-mold, and sand suits Bouvar- dias, and, if kejit free from the attacks of fly by timely fumigation, no plant that we cultivate is more useful or lieautiful, either as a pot iilaiit or for supplying cut flowers. After potting, con- siderable care must be exercised not to over- water ; but as growth advances more liberal sup- plies will be needed. When the pots are fairly fllled with roots shift into larger pots. 609. Peach from Northern China, The new Peaches from North China and the Steppes of Asia are new in North America. They have pa.s.sed only two winters as young trees, and arc rated about a.s hardy in wood as our apple trees that are fairly hardy in Northern Illinois. But I think they seem hardier than that here, for they withstood :)1 fU-grees below zero in Northern Illi- nois last \\intoi:. «-ithont an.\' more (if as much) di.scoloralion of the wood than the hardy North- ern Wild Plums. How hardy the fruit liuds are we do not know. They have withstood 2(1 de- grees liclow zero this winter, where fully half of thi' buds oti eoinnion Peach seecllings are killed. We expert to ha\e it in fruit at many points in the Northwi-st ni'.vt somnier, then we will know something abiait them. They might succeed at Shawano, Wis., buddeil into the branches of hardy nati\'e T*lums.— II. B. Wier. .510. To Build a Brick Fine Build an arched fireplace with fire bricks, 2 feet deep, 16 inches high in the center, II inches at the siiles, and 17 inches wide, fire-bar 2 feet long, leaving a space of 3 inches between end of bars and furnace door; the ash-hole same size as fire-bar, with door to match. The Hue carried round on the level of floor of the house must be 6 inches higher than top of fire-bar, with a gradual rise of 6 inches about 6 feet from chimney end, and built 3 bricks deep edgeways, 1 foot wide within, lined witli silt nioi'tar. and covered with Yorkshire slabs :^'-,. inihi-s thick : a chimney 15 feet high to inatih tlie tine will give sufficient draught. At thr l)ott(iiii of rhimney put in small door, and a damper 5 leet aliove. The Hue must not be built to turn at riglit angles, but with a curve on the out,sidc. When all isi-omplete, to get it to draw place a double-handful of shavings at bottom of chimney, set on fire, chise the door, and when blazing light the fire, leaving the ash-hole door open.— F. A. Harrison. no POPULAR GARDENING. February, «10. Lettuce in the Greenhouse. -To start rightly in this business it is necessary to arrange the details forsoil, etc., during the season before. A light loam, inclining to sand makes a very good soil for forcing Lettuce. It should be well manured by mi.xing with it Yt its bulk of weU rotted stable manure, the spring before being used. It should be thoroughly mixed by being handled several times and having the beneUt ot the summer rains. If the sash or glass can be easily removed, this can be done on the green- house benches. Provided the old soil in the benches is of the right character and can be "weathered " by rerao\ang the glass it will an- swer bv being treated as direcii I ihoM i-oi the locality of Buffalo, it is necessary to sow seed about Aug. 10-15, in order to get good plants for the benches about Sept. 20-25. Advantage should be taken of a rainy spell about that time for planting, as these outdoor plants wilt very easUy. If the weather is dry, watering and shading must be resorted too, to prevent wilting and check- ing the growth. It is better to wait a week or more for a wet speU than to plant with- out rain. Plants should be set about 6 or 7 inches each way for compact growing . sorts. The crop should be kept growing rapidly while the weather is warm so as to be well grown by Dec. Ist, for from Nov. 1st to Feb. 1st is the most difficult season to get growth on Lettuce owing to the lack of sunshine. The pot system of bringing on young Lettuce plants is an excellent one. On the score of transplanting easier it would probably pay to pot the first lot to be planted in, but for all succeeding crops the advantage is great in a number of other respects besides. By the time the first crop is sold in December, there should be sufficient good strong plants in pots to fill the space as quickly as cleaned. These can be had by potting good strong plants about Oct. 15th to 30th from outside. Plant about 7 to 8 inches apart this time as, on account of cloudy weather, more room is needed than for the earliest. About Oct. Ist a good supply of seed should be sown in boxes for refilling pots in December, as soon as they are emptied. After this, throughout the winter a - lot of seed for the second succeeding crop, should be sown about the time of removing each crop. Before the planting of each new crop, the soil should have a dressing of very fine rotted ma- nure, or some good fertilizer, and be well spaded and worked. For fall management the sash should be left entirely off from the houses until there is danger of frosts, for on no account should the Lettuce freeze, as it will check growth for several weeks. A temperature of about 40° to .50° at night and from 50° to 70° in day time, ac- cording to the amount of sunshine, should give good results; ventilation on all days that the outside air is above freezing and a little air should be given once a week at least, unless weather Is extremely cold. Towards spring when the sun is higher the temperature can safely run up to 80° or 85° in day time and need not be much be- low 60° at night, if considerable ventilation can be given. Water only when the soil becomes dry, which will be very seldom from Nov. 1st to Feb. Ist. During March, April and May, a crop can be cut in from three to six weeks from time of planting into beds from the pots, if everything is well done. From May 1st to 15th the benches can be sown to Cabbage and Cauliflower seeds, which will do very well if sash are removed as soon as the plants begin to crowd (this plan, it may be remarked, overcomes the gi-eatest obsta- cle to raising Cabbage and Cauliflower plants, namely the flea. The root maggot also does very Uttle mischief compared with sowings made in the open ground, as , the sash can be kept on till within a week or two of time when plants are ready to transplant, and thus shut out the fleas and I'uaggi )t-fl\- up to that time). Tomato Pepper, Egg-plaiit.i'tc.',can also be raised after theLotr.uce, but should be sown two or four weeks earlier than Cabbage. When setting out the plants from the pots, they should be graded to uniform sizes, or rather, as soon as ten feet or more of bed is cleaned, pick out the largi-st plants in pots for planting, which will give tlic remaining ones more room; be careful to haw all plants of uniform size when planted in bed, .so that when one is ready to cut, they all arc, and the bed can be cleared and replanted the same dav. This is very important towards spring as each day is valu- abfe, for on a sunnv day when the temperature can lie kept from 75° to 80°, the Lettuce will make more growth than in a week in December. After ,Ian. l.'^ith tin- new stands of Lettuce can again be set ilos<'r, say to 6 or 7 inches, if ot the compact sorts. There are a niimlicr of varieties used for forcing. Each market seems to favor someone sort above others; for Buffalo market nine-tenths of the winter lettuce is Hubbard Market, which seems better adapted for forcing at the different seasons and also for outdoor growing than any other variety we have tried. This variety seems not to be generally known outside of this vicinity. The price received for Lettuce usually runs from 40 cents to 75 cents per dozen in the Buffalo market, according to season and quality. It averages, perhaps, .55 cents, at which price it is a good paying business, especially if the_^pot sys- tem is handled rightly. Near cities which employ illuminating gas, the coke makes an e.xcellent cheap fuel.— D. N. Long, WlUiammUe, N. Y. 561. Material for Protection. It the land Is poor perhaps manure. If quite coarse and strawy, would be lii~t if n I 1 It fl k'vnst- t— >', and injure the PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS. canes. If the plants need manure this would be an economical way to supply it; If they do not, covering with soil would be much the cheapest and is always a perfect one if not left on too late In the spring. It need not, nor should It be thick, just enough fo cover them out of sight. E.'tcept in very severe climates where the snow Is flable to blow away simply laying Grape-vines flat on the ground with anything on them, such as the stakes they are tied to, or a few lumps of soil, is sum- cient protection for them.— D. B. W . Some Good Plants for Garden and Pot Culture.— The Plumbagos. The subjects of our sketch, even though long-known, have merit In a degree to render them worthy of more general atten- tion than they usually receive. The more valuable sorts are as follows, beginning with one that is probably the finest of the genus: Plwmbago capensis, of which we present a spirited engraving, is a native of Africa on the Cape of Good Hope, and is a plant that certainly well deserves a high degree of praise. It is easy of management both as a pot plant and for bedding. Its habit of blooming is free and long continuous, and in its flowers we have one of the rarest and most delicate colors in cultivation, namely, a beautiful lavender-blue. While it is true that the individual flowers last but a day, yet others on the same head for a long time continue to open, so that each head is ap- parently a mass of bloom on the current year's growth. Were it not that the flowers lack fragrance they might be called almost ideal blooms. When this species is well grown a shrubby bush some thirty inches high is formed, the appearance of which when in bloom is not easily surpassed. The treatment ot P. capensis is simple: Propagated from cuttings, or, better, by off- sets from old plants rooted in bottom heat, small plants can be planted in full sunshine outside, in a soil not too rich, after danger of frost is past. Until cold weather it may be expected to flower with considerable freedom, and then if the plants be lifted, cutting back their shoots say two thirds, and potting in light, moderately rich soil and placed in a sunny situation, with fair warmth, they will give many flowers during the winter. Where this is done, however, it is better each year to start new plants, as these are on the whole more satisfactory. Required for summer flowering only, they may be stored during the winter in a cellar or cool greenhouse, having the roots covered with soil to prevent drying and planting out in spring after cutting back a third or less of the old wood. In greenhouse culture good effects may be pro- duced vpith this species by training the plants as climbers. With a little care, it placed in various degrees of heat, bloom may be had steadily the year round. PUunhcuio rosco,an East Indian species, requiring more heat than the above, is an old sort, valuable for decoration from its free blooming habit and grace- ful appearance. Cuttings are struck m the spring and grovsTi in good light soil, having a cool airy place during the summer in small pots, pinching several times and not allowing them to become dry. As cold weather sets in they should be brought into heat, and then bright masses of pinkish-salmon flowers will soon follow, continu- ing to appear through- out the winter. Where old plants are de- sired, simply keep the stock well cut back to induce young growth, and for several months water can be partially withheld as a sort of rest, then repot and start in heat. Old flower stems, if left undisturbed on the plants, will have a second crop early in the spring, not as fine as the first, however. Weak manure water occasionally is of use. P rosea cocfinca is a variety of the last both larger and brighter than the paretit, and excellent for winter decoration. The plant is of free branching habit, producmg panicles of blooms of a deep red color, and nearly two feet in length sometimes, during the whole vrinter. . P. Lnrpenta, introduced from Shanghai, by I.ady Larpent, is a dwarf, hardy herba- ceous kind, freely producing flowers of deep blue, changing to violet. It grows from six to twelve inches high and is useful for rock work and sunny borders, as well as for edg- ing beds and walks, being attractive and requiring but little attention. The most ordinary soil will answer its needs. In the colder sections a light mulch at the approach of winter is beneficial. It is propagated by cuttings, or by dividing the roots early in the spring before growth commences, or by seed sown when ripened. Aside from its intense and not common color, this sort ought to be welcomed because of its bloom- ing late in the summer, and when most hardy plants are out of flower. i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 1 1 1 THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* XIII. BY A WELL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST. SELECTIONS OF HARDY ORNAMENTAL WOODT GROWTHS. Continued /rum page 87. Class 1. — Comprtximi Mnds ffiiiU'il to gencrnJ plant inij, and such as arc not embraced in the additional classes below. TREES. (Note:— For n key to the letters following the name^, se^ page t?7, January issue. Var. preeeding any name beloie indicates a variety of last specieJi preceding.) Ash. American White, (Fraxinus Americana) A. Bosc's. (rar. Boscii) B. European, ( F. excelsa) B. Single-leaved, I'ar. morwphyUa) B. Aspen. American, or Trembling, (PojmUus Jrem- xtlaides) b. Beech. European, (Fa^us sylratica) A. American, (F. fernigiiiea) B. Birch. European White Weeping, {Bctula alba) B. Cut-leaved Weeping, (var. pendida eUgans) b. Buckeye. Red, {J^^gcuhis PaiHa rubra) a. Long-racemed, (.E Pavia flora) c-d. CERCIDrPHYLLCM JAPONICUM B. Chestnut. American, (Cas(a)ica .Americana) a. Elm. American White or Weeping, (Ulrmm Americana) a. English, (U. campestris) A. Cork-barked English, (var mibcrosa) B. Common Scoteh or Wych, (17. montana) b. Huntingdon's, (var. Huntinydotit) A. Blandford's, (var. miperba) A. Red or Slippery, U. fulva) B. Hickory. Common, (Carya alha) A. Hop Tree. Shrubby Trefoil, (Pttlia trifoliata)F. Hornbeam. American, iCarpimis Americana)c. Horse Chestnut. European or Common, (.Es- cubts hippneaetanum) A. Double White-flowered, (var. alba Jl. pi.) b. Dwarf, (var. nana Van Houtteii) p. Red-flowering, (xE. ruhiciinila) b. Larch. European, (Larix Europcva) A. Linden. European, (Tilia Europea) A. European White-leaved, (rar. alba) b. White-leaved Weeping, (var. alba pendula) b. Liquidambar, or Sweet Gum. (Liquidamba/r styraciflua) B. Maple. Sugar. (Acer }iKcu») G. Burning Bush or Spindle Tree, (E. atropur- purea) G. Forsythia in variety g. Honeysuckle in variety. Japan Quince. Scarlet in variety, (Pyrus) a. Lilac. In variety, (Syringa) E. Josika's, or Chionanthus-leaved, (S. Josi- kcea) F. • Copyright, 18OT, Popular Gardening PubUshlngCo. Mock Orange, or Syringa, in variety, (Phila- d(lphus) H-F. Dwarf, (I'ar. nana) h. Dwarf, Doublc-flowei-iug, (P. dtaniMflorus florc pktw) H. Large flowered, (P. grandiflnrux) c. Plum. Tomcntosp, (Prunmi tomenttisa) a. Privet. Common, (Z/ifliisfntm nilyarin) f. Oval-leaved, (L. walifnlium) f. Laurel-leaved, (L. laurifnUum) f. Viburnum in variety. Weigelia in variety, (DierviUa) h-p. Winter Berry, or Black Alder, (t. uerttcii- lata) f. LIQUIDAMBAR OR SWEET QUM. Class 2.— Kinds conspicuovs for large or bold forms of foliage. trees. AlLANTHUS GLANDULOSUS B. Catalpa. Common, or Indian Bean, (Catalpa bigno)wtdtg) A. Hardy, (C. »peciosa) a. Elm. Broad-leaved, ( Ulmus muntana latifolia) b. Honey Locust, or Three Thorned Acacia, (Qleditschia tricanth^js) b. Kentucky Coffee Tree, (aymnudadun Cana- detisia) b. Linden. American or Basswood, (Tilia Ameri- cana) A. Broad-leaved, (TUia Eurnpea platyphyOa) b. Magnolia. Cucumber Tree. (Magnolia acum- inata) A. Heart-leaved, (M. cordata) f. Umbrella, (M. utnbreUa) D. Great-leaved, (M. macrophyUa) c. Ear-leaved, (M. Fraseri) b. Long-leaved Sweet Bay, (M. glauca lungi- folia) F. Maple. Large-leaved, (Acer macrophyllum) A-j. Oak. Burr or Mossy Cup,((^jeJCK» mafrocarpa)A. Large-leaved, (Q. rohur macrophyUa) b. Chestnut, ((iuercus prinus) A. Paulownia Imperialis b. Aralia. Japan, (AraliaJaponica) f. AngeUca Tree or Hercules Club, (A. spinosa) f. Lilac Giant. (Syringa vulgarin giyantea) f. Class 3.— Kinds that are rharacterizcd by cut, curled, narrow or small leaves. TREES. Alder. Imperial cut-leaved, (Alnus ylutimisa lacinata imperalis) b. Ash. Willow-leaved, (Frciirinns excelsa saiici- folla) D. Beech. Cut-leaved, (Poflits sylvatica lacinata) B. Fern-leaved, (var. cn^pknifnlial b. Birch. Poplar-leaved, (B. alba populifolia) B. Deciduous Cypress. Common or Swamp, (Taxodium distichutn) A-J. Elm. Berard's, Ulmus campestria Berardi) b. Webb's, (var. crlspa) B. Twiggy English, (var. viminalis) c. Curled-leaved, (tiar. cuculata) b. Nettle-leaved, (oar n'rico'folia) a. Linden. Grape-leaved, (Tilia Euroiiea viti- folia) B. Locust. Golden, (Robinia pseudacacia aurea) b. G ummy Acacia, ( K viscosa) B. Maiden Hair, or Ginkgo. (Ginkgo adianti- folia) A. Maple. Cut-leaved, (Acer platanoides diasec- tum) A. Eagle's Claw, (i«ir. laciniatum) a. New Cut-leaved Silver, (A. datycarpum het- eroplujllum laciniotum) c. Wagner's Cut-leaved Silver, (var. Wagneri laciniatum) c. Crisp-leaved Silver, (var. crigpum novum) c. Oak. Willow-leaved, (Qii>rrc«sp/ifHos) B. Cut-leaved, (Q. robur taciniata) h Latifolia cucullata, (For. Intifolia cucullata)B. SOPHOBA. Common, (Sophora Japonica) b. Sumach. Cut-leaved, (Rhus glabra laciniata) E. WALNtjT. Black, (Juglans nigra) A. Willow. Rosemary-leaved, (Salix roamarini- folia) D. Ring-leaved, (S. Babylonica annularis) d. shrubs. Amorpha. Shrubby, (Amorpha fruticosa) c. Bladder Nut. American. (Staphylea trifolia)v. Pinnate-leaved, (S. colchica pinna'a) f. Elder. Cut-leaved, (Sambucxts nigra lacin- iata) G. Hazel OR Filbert. Cut-leaved, (Corylus avel- lana laciniata) G. Lilac. Cut-leaved Persian, (Syringa Persica laciniata) f. SpibjBa. Germander-leaved, (Spircea chamcc- drifolia) h. Mountain Ash-leaved, (S sorbifoUa) f. Tamarisk. African, (Tamarix Africans) r. Class i.~Kinds with variegated, mottled, whitish, or golden^hued leaves or bark. trees. Ash. Aucuba-lea ved, (Fraxijias ^mer/cana au- cubaefolia) c. Variegated-leaved, (F. excelsa concavaefolia variegata) b. Beech. Golden-variegated, (Fayus sylvatica aurea variegata) b. Bird Cherry. Aucuba-leaved, (Pnmus padus aucubaefolio) c. Catalpa. Golden, (Catalpa bignonioidesaureo)A. Elm. Variegated-leaved, (Ulmut campestris var- iegata argenfea) b. Golden-leaved, (var. aurea) a. Maple. Golden-leaved Sycamore, (^Icer pseudo platanus aurea variegata) b. Variegated Ash-leaved, (Neyundo foHis ar- genteis variegatis) E. Oak. Golden-leaved, ((^uercvs robur concor- dia) c. Silver-leaved, (var. argentea variegata) b. Poplar. White or Silver or Abele, (Populus alba) A. Willow. Three-colored, (Salix capreatricolor)D. Rosemary-leaved, (S. rosmarinifolia) d. Royal, (S. regalis) d. shrubs. Althea. Variegated-leaved, (Hibiscut flore plena foliis variegata) e. Cobchorus. Silver variegated-leaved, (Kerria Jap. foliis variegata) h. Deutzia. Variegated, (Deutzia gracilis varie- gata) h. Dogwood. Variegated-leaved, (Cornus varie- gata) G. Variegated Cornelian Cherry, (C. mascuXa variegata) e. Elder. Golden-leaved, (Sambucus nigra aurea) f Variegated-leaved, (var. variegata) g. Lilac. Golden-leaved, (Syringa vulgaris foliis aurea) f. Mock Orange. Golden-leaved, (Philadelphus foliis aurea) h. Oleaster, or Wild Olive. Silver-leaved, (Elaeagnus argentea) f. SpirjBA. Golden, (Spiraea (Neillia) aurea) F. Waxberry. Variegated-leaved, (Symphoricar- pus vulgaris foliis variegata) h. Weigelia. Dwarf, Variegated-leaved, (LHer- villa nana foliis variegata) h. Arbor ViT.fE. Geo. Peabody's, (Thuja occiden- talis aureum) H. Burrow's, (var. Burrowii) h. Parson's, (var coj»poc(o) H. Hovey's, (var. Hoveyii) h. Class b.— Kinds with purplish or blood- colored leaves or bark. TREES. Beech. Large Purple-leaved, (Fagus sylvatica purpurea major) c. Rivers Purple-leaved, (var. purpurea Riv- ertii) b. Copper colored, (var. cuprea) b. Birch. Purple-leaved, (Betula foliis purpur- ea) B. Elm. Puri'le-leaved English, (Ulmus campestris purpurea) A. Peach. Purple or Blood-leaved, (Persica vul- garis foliis purpurea) c. Maple. Purple-leaved Sycamore, (Acer pseudo platamis purpurea) B. I 12 POPULAR GARDENING. February, Japanese, {A. polymorphum) d-j. Blood-red-leaved Japanese, (I'ar. aanguin- euni) D-j. Dark Purple leaved Japanese, war. atropur- pureuyn) D-j. Various-colored Japanese, (rar. versicol- or) D-J. Cut-leaved Purple Japanese, (tiar. dissec- tum) D-J. Oak. Purple-leaved, (Quercus robur atropur- purea) b. Plum. Purple-leaved, [Prunus Pissardi). SHRUBS. Berberry. Purple-leaved, (Berberris vulgaris purpurea) H. Enonymcs. Purple-leaved, (Enonymus Euro- paens ntropurpureus) G. Hazel, oh Filbert. Purple-leaved, (Coryhis avellana purpurea) G. Class 6.— Kinds of Pendant or Weeping hnhit. TREES. Ash. Weeping European, (Fraxinus excelsa pendvia) c. Beech. Weeping, (Fagus sylvatica pendula) b. Birch. Young's Weeping, (Betula alba pendula Youvgii) D. Buckeye. Dwarf Pendulous, UJSsmlus pavia pumila peniula) c-D. Cherry. Dwarf Weeping, {Prunus avium pu- milapeudiita) C-D. Elm. Weeping Small-leaved, (Ulmus campestris microphylia pendula) c. Weeping Cork-barked, (I'or. suberosa pen- dula) B. Weeping Camperdown, (C/. montana Cam- perdowni) B. Weeping Scotch, (Dor. pendula) B. Kough-leaved Weeping, (nor. pendula ru- gosa) B. Honey Locust. Weeping (Gleditschi% Bu- jotii) B-J. Larch. Weeping European, {Larix Evropiea pendula) a. Mountain Ash. Weeping, {Pyrus aucuparta pendula) d. Oak. Weepiug, {Quercus roburpendula) B. Poplar. Weeping tooth-leaved, (Popuius gran- didentata pendula) D. Athenian Weeping, (P Graeca pendula) b. SoPHORA, Weeping, (Scphora Japonica pen- dula) B-D. Willow. Babylonian or Weeping, (Salix Baby- lonica) c. Kilmarnock Weeping, (S. Caprea pendula) c. American Weeping, or Fountain, (S. pur- purea pendula) D. SHRUBS. Berberry. European or Common, (Berberis vulgaris) G. Dogwood. Weeping, (Cormis/Iorido pendula)c. Forsythia. Weeping, (Forsythia suspensa) e. {To be continued next month.) A Choice Basket Plant: Russelia Juncea. wn.BUR F. LAKE, ERIE CO., N. y. It is to be regretted that this plant, pes sesslng as it does the most desirable features for basket or vase culture, is not more widely cultivated. The price for a nice thrifty plant is not high, neither can its newness account for its scarcity, for its introduction dates back to 1813. The writer is led to believe that in the general craze for the more showy flowers, this, like many others of delicate beauty, has been passed unheeded by. The Russelia is a twiggy, rush-like plant of slender habit, with greenish branches which spring apparently from the base, having small, smooth, opposite ovate leaves, and a great profusion of trumpet-shaped bright scarlet flowers. The latter which are about an inch long, are produced fi-om the axils of the leaves upon somewhat an- gular stalks, so as to form loose panicles at the end of the branches. To see this plant in all its natural beauty and perfection of grace, it should occupy the side of a vase, or be suspended from a basket. So treated, the branches are enabled to droop and bloom right along. The coloring of the conspicuous flowers, too, being a bright fiery scarlet, is scarce among basket plants, thus giving an addi- tional point of value for this puri)Ose. As to general requirements, these are simple, when given an average temperature of not lower than .5.5 degrees. Although needing an abundance of root room, with this, as with most other plants, it is a seri- THE WEEPING SOPHORA. ous fault to over-pot. For compost, use one part well-decomposed cow manure, two parts well-decayed sandy sods, some rotten hop refuse, and a liberal sprinkling of bone dust. Of course, insect pests must be expected un- less prevented. For this fsequent syringings are of great benefit, as this not only prevents their attacks, but tends towards active growth in consequence of keeping them clean. To propagate it place cuttings of half-ripened wood in sand in gentle heat where they will soon strike root. The Russelia belongs to the natural order Schophulariacew, the generic name being given in honor of Dr. Alexander Russel, a celebrated EngUsh physician ; aiid the spe- cific name with reference to the rush-like branches of the plant. Strawberries for Best Profits. M. T. THOMPSf^N, EAST ROCKPORT. OHIO. As to what should be planted, I would say it depends a great deal on both the soil and the market you have. In some markets small berries fetch almost as much as large ones, in which case plant the small prolific kinds like Capt. Jack, Crescent, Wilson, May King, and others, choosing the most productive on your soil. I find Capt Jack to be very productive, of good color and it increases well. Cre.seent is very productive, beautiful, and sells well, but the trouble is it gets matted very thick and with dry weather at picking time half the berries do not mature. With it one should get a good stand of plants and if growing too thrifty cut off some of the run- ners. This applies to most all kinds. The importance of getting a full crop of berries not only lies in its being easier to get them picked, but also in its being easier to sell them. Most people like a large berry. but many who work for small wages cannot afford to pay big prices for such, so we must raise something that can be sold cheap or we lessen the consumption, vihich should not be done. The children of the poor should eat Strawberries as well as the rich. The poor class of people do the hardest work and they should have an abundance of such healthful luxuries. I don't agi-ee with one gentleman who once said in my presence that it was not necessary for workingmen tx) buy the best of flour. I happen to know that this "gentleman " never did one hard day's work in his life. For a large Strawberry I find the Mount Vernon to be the most profitable of any of the old kinds; next comes the good old Sharpless. It is large, and if not of quite as good a shape as I would like, the shape don't hurt the taste. Of this I raised many the past season that would lay on the open top of a tea cup and not fall in. If not allowed to grow to thick in the row and on good, heavy ground, this variety with me averages the largest of any grown. One objection to them can be raised, they do not ripen as even as I would like. With me they do better the second year than the first, some- times double or more, as a result of cleaning them all out after I get through picking the first year. Sometimes I have went over them three times pulling off all the nmners before they struck root. But for this I would not have had so many bushels of berries, nor got as much per bushel tor them. As regards price I generally get twice as much for Sharpless as I do for Wilson, while they are larger, hence cheaper to pick. With only half the crop of the former I make more money. Our market (Cleveland) is no doubt different from some others, for large, good looking berries like Sharpless, Mount Vernon, Great American, Jucunda, etc., bring from a certain class of rich people 13 to 15 cents per quart when Wilson and the smaller berries sell for 5 cents. Let me not be understood as claiming that these large sorts are the most productive; what I do claim is that they pay me the best. The Manchester is very productive, but with me rusts badly. The great merit of the Mount Vernon is, it comes in about ten days later than Sharpless and as most others are getting poorer, so it generally sells well. While the berries named do so well with me it is not likely they do as well every- where. Some are sectional no doubt. What I would urge growers to do is to try a few of each kind until you find which do the best in your soil and location. It is not, of course, best to invest in any new kind heavy at first; sometimes you might hit it, but most times you will miss it, I recall once putting in 10,000 of a new kind because they done, and sold well with a friend of mine,as they do to this day, he raising no others; but with me they were a complete failure. In my patch I also planted a row of another new variety from another friend. This man had not fruited it at that time. The following spring I had lots of nice plants, so asking him of his later experience he said they were " no good. " Taldng his word I did not set a plant of it that spring, only to regret it at picking time, for here in my grounds the same variety made one of the prettiest, best loaded rows of berries I ever saw, and they keep up doing as well. My friend, learning how well they did, tried another row of the same, and this time they succeeded remarkably well. The whole trouble at first had been that he let the plants get so thick the berries could not properly develop. Both these friends were honest in their opinions, but in one case my soil was not adapted to the kind while the other was; in the other case my friend did not give his berries a chance to develop. This same thing is occurring everywhere, not only in i888. POPULAR GARDENING. II strawberries but in all kinds of fruits anil vegetables. Wliatever is raised let us give more care, better attention, and in Straw- berries nmlch them with tine straw or fine manure early in winter or fall. If it is impossible to mulch in the fall then let it be done in the spring, as it will no doubt pay well. You take to jnarket 20 bushels of Strawberries, no matter how large they are, but all dirty and poor look- ing, and let your neighbor take in a similar load of clean and bright frnit, and see the difference in price. In Cleveland the latter would find quick .sale at double the price. Suppose the price for the dirty lot is $:3.00 per bushel and of the clean *4,()(). here on the load of 30 bushels there would be a net difference of just $40.00. This is supposing a case that is often borne o\it by actual facts. Nitrate or Ammonia. BY N. y. L. In the January Popular Gardening, A. C, Martinsburg, W. Va., asks about nitrate of soda, kainit, and sulphate of ammonia in the garden. I think the matter will warrant a fuller reply than Mr. Harris' excellent short reply in the same number. In using nitrates, it nuist be kept in mind that they (with the exception of the nitrates of alumina and of iron, which are never in tiuantities so large as to make them of ac- count) are readily leached out of the soil. Hence nitrates should be applied only when there is a crop or will immediately be a crop, to use them. Otherwise it is generally cheaper to apply nitrate forming manures. Don't you think it would often be more economical, Mr. Harris, t(j make at lea,s-t two applications of those .t(K) pounds per acre ? Not so very long ago we were taught that ammonia compounds were the sole source from which plants could derive nitrogen; but now it is laid down as a general rule that nitrates are better than ammonium compounds. To this there are exceptions, and both rule and exceptions are of impor- tance to gardeners. Julius Lehmann made his important ex- periments on Indian Corn; undoubtedly the results would apply to Sweet Corn as well. He proved very emphatically that during the first stages of growth the ammonium compoxmds were much the best for Corn: the plants given ammonium compounds be- ing vigorous, while those given nitrates were sickly. But after the plants were about six weeks old, the ones given nitrates made a vigorous growth, while those given am- monium compounds made a poor growth. However, Prof. Johnson has demonstrated that Corn plants may be supported on ammonia throughout. Lehmann's Tobacco plants given ammonia did much better than those given nitrates. Those given nitrates made a slow growth until they approach maturity. Of Lupines, those given nitrates made the heaviest growth of foliage; those given am- monia the heaviest in'oduci of seeds. Echeubrecher found that Peas used little nitrates, and could not bear an excess of them in the soil. And Hosans found that Pea.s did even better with nitrates than with ammonium compomiiis. ^\11 the plants were grown in peat charged with.ferric phos phate; some had suljihate of potash, sulphate of magnesia, and chloride of ammonium; others had the nitrates of lime and of potash, and sulphate of magnesia, and yet cjthers hiul all; none did well. Wein found that Peas and Beans, in pure humus and ash ingredients, were benefited by nitrate of soda, while sulphate of am- monia hindered theu- early growth and actually killed some. It is supposed that the plants that grew with sulphate of am- monia, were favored by its conversion In the soil to nitrates. In farm ex))eriinents in Germany, with Sugar Beets, a certain weight of nitrate of soda applied in the spring increased the crop from (10 to 7h ])er cent more than the same weight of sulphate of anmionia; but when they were applied in the fall, the sulphate gave almost as good results as the nitrate. Clearly a good part of the nitrate was leached from the soil during the winter, while a i)art of the sulphate was converted into nitrates. Hosans exi)erimented on Onions with am- monium compounds and nitrates. The plants given nitrates did much the l)etter. Wagner concluded from field experiments that ammonia salts applied to Potatoes did more harm than good. The conditions were such that the ammonia could not readily change to nitrates. In field experiments with Potatoes, Maercker found no great difference between nitrate of soda, sidphate of ammonia, and Penirtan Guano, when used by themselves or with plain super-phosphates. Light dress- ings of the nitrate gave comparatively larger returns than heavy dressings. No good resulted from nitrogenous fertilizers of organic origin applied to Potatoes in the spring, either by themselves or with suijer- phosphate; and no good resulted from the use of super-phosphate alone. But good re- sulted from the use of super-phosphate and an active nitrogenous fertilizer together. Maercker also found that nitrate of soda was a useful addition to farm yard manure, (and that sidphate of anmionia was not), as an application to Potatoes; and that the application should be made at or shortly after the time of planting. Dresehler, in very elaborate farm experiments with Pota- toes, found that nitrate of soda with super- phosphates gave good results. Deherain found that large dressings of sulphate of ammonia to Beets were inferior to nitrate of soda; in fact, a positive hurt. It is a pity that we have not information upon the relative benefit of nitrates and am- monium compounds to the gardener. But the upshot of the affair is, that he should use the ammonium compounds only experiment- ally until he has determined to what crops they ai'e best applied, when best applied, and whether alone or not. The same is true of the use of nitrates, though not in near so great degree. Gardeners annually spend many thousands of dollars for fertilizers that bring no adequate return; and many, by such experience, are induced to give up the use of fertilizers that properly used would be highly profitable. Here is a field for our private and pulilic experimenters even more worthy than the testing of new varieties. Carnations for Cut Flowers. In Re- ply to Inquiry No. 538. CHAS. E. PARNELL, QUEENS, N. Y. Cuttings should be put in about the first of February, and when rooted pricked out into shallow fiats, and placed in rows an inch and a half apart each way. Then they should be grown on in a cool house until about the tenth of May, when they can be planted out in rows 30 inches apart, the plants being a foot apart in the row. They will require to be cut back once before they are planted outside. Carnation plants should be given a deep, rich, loamy soil, and this during the sum- mer sea.son should be well and deeply culti- vated. This treatment should be kept up until the middle of September, when the plants should be carelully lifted and planted out in the greenhouse benches one foot apart each way. At intervals during the summer the plants should be headed back to obtain bushy specimens with from twelve to fifteen vigorous shoots, but this cutting back should be discontinued after the first of August. After this all their wants will consist in keeping them neatly tied to stakes and giving a temperature of fnmi V, to r,r,. In winter culture air should be frequently given whenever the opportunity oft'ers, and water as reiiuired, avoiding extremes of drought and moisture. Fumigate slightly twice a week and syringe gently at times in bright, sunny weather. The most suitable compost in which to grow Carnation plants is one composed of two parts turf from an old pasture and one l)art good stable manure. This should be collected early in the spring aneam the correct Tmme ot every tree, vine and plant on your (pounds. It is a task in which the youngsters of the family should also take a part. Stefs to E.nrich Land Rapidly. Those desir- ing to quickly enrich ordinary soil for market, garden or other crops requiring high fertility, are ad\Tsed to take the following course: Manure well in the spring and plant Potatoes; dig these in good time and sow Rye; spread manure on the Rye in early winter evenly; in the spiing plow under the Rye and manure to bury them; apply ashes and sujierphosphate, harrow th<)roughly. and the land will be ready for f'abbaees, early Porn, Squashes or any crop of similar needs. A NuKSEHY or reserve garden in some form should be connected with every fruit grower's and gardener's home. In this hf)th the fruit and ornamental trees needed on the place may be grown to advantage. Both the bo.vs and girls could be taught to graft and bud young trees, Rose bushes, etc. It is a very simple work and can be learned in a very short time by almost any bo.v who is ten years or more old ; it is very interesting work for boys, and under proper di- rection the growing of ti-ees makes the boys more strongly attivched to the home. An orch- ard grown from the seed planted by the owner is looked upon with far greater interest than one from trees that were not watched over and cared for wlien they first came from seed. Growing Freesia Refracta Alba. I notice Cape Bulbs, page "6, January number. I am inclin- ed to think that the usual i>ractice "potting in the fall, keep cool till they begin to grow and root well " may be improved upon, in some things. I get the better Freesias potting in rich sandy soil, ten bulbs in a six inch pot, give a soaking water- ing and set at once on the bench of the green- house, then water onlj' to keep moLst until growing, and the faster growing the more \vater until blooming: then withhold water to moist only to gradually ripen the bulbs. 8uch planted September 1st, bloom December liith, ending January 10th, and ripens the bulbs February 1st. I get stronger and better flowers thus than by the old method. I take pleasure in learn- ing tlie f)ld ways, and then try other ways, seek- ing to make two blades grow where one grew before as a part of the work f»f an amateur florist. —Jiihn Lane, Chicago, III. For New York St.\te Hohtictltuhe. ELse- >vhere the resolutions passed by the Western New York lloiticultural .Society at its hist meet- ing, in favor of enlarging the field of the society to the entire State of Xe^v York are publishe--.ii,ij The Importance of Good Seed. \VM. H. YEOMANS, TALLAND CO., CONN. Every grower ought to feel the importance of possessing good seed for the production of his crops. It should possess that quality of vitality that not only makes sure the ger- mination of a large proportion but that ahso gives a vigorous start to the y(juug plant. This idea is best illustrated by taking a piece of corn; suppose that the seed is so wanting in vitality that where four or five kernels are dropped in each hill, one at least ii8 POPULAR GARDENING. March, in each hill fails to germinate; it is plain to see that at least one-fourth of the seed would fail, and so the crop correspondingly dimin- ished. Every farmer has, or at least ought to liave, a sufficient amount of surface de- voted to the vegetable garden, and in the matter of seeds the same rule with regard to seeds will apply, and here the effect is vastly more disastrous. It is surprising to what an extent fraud creeps in in the bus- iness of seeds such as are placed with country merchants for sale to customers. In some instances where hopes have been centered on such for the production of an early crop of some particular kind, liow keen has been the disappointment on finding that the seed employed possessed no vitality whatever. Seed that possesses sound vitality is of inestimable value, while that destitute of this important principal is dear even as a gift. We do not mean to say that seed dealers really mean to be dishon- est, but we do say that the seeds that are hawked about the country should be looked upon with suspicion. Even though they are offered at moderate rates they are act- ually much more expensive than those that can be procured at reliable houses. With the present facilities offered by seed dealers, cultivators can deal by mail with those who have earned an enviable reputa- tion by honest dealing, and can secure such varieties as they want. And though ap- pearing to cost more at first such will be found to be much cheaper in the end. A new idea is being started in the line of manuring the seed, as it is called, before it is planted. If the principle proves useful and can be made available with garden veg- etable seeds, doing what is claimed for it, it will be a rich boon to all who desire to give increased vitality and vigor to the seed and hasten its germination. Anything that will accomplish this will readily find favor and be much sought for by the gardener. Grafting Small Grape-Vines. BY DR. G. ST.\TMAX, LEAVENWdRTH, KANS.\S. Our former article related to grafting vines in the rtneyard and nursery. We now give our mode of grafting young vines after they are taken up from the nursery bed. We prefer stocks or vines two years old either grown from seed or cuttings. The latter are smoother and more easily worked. It makes no difference what species or vari- ieties they are so they are strong growers and healthy, for their identity is lost after the second year. They should be taken up in the fall and stored away free from frost, and accessible when wanted. In March we commence grafting, by first selecting the stocks and cutting them three inches long from the bottom of the lower tier of roots, with a smooth stem above where they are to be grafted. Shorten in aU the roots if fibrous to about one-half inch, but if long and strag- gling about one inch long. We tlien splice and tongue-graft these with scions about nine or ten inches long. (Those grafts that were too small for vineyard grafting we can dispose of in tliis manner). To do this whip grafting in a proper man- ner, the slope .should be made about one inch and a half long with a sharp knife, with H tongue cut in both stock and graft and the rough outside bark taken off from both, on the side at least where the inner bark meets. Then press the graft and stock tiglit togetlier within the tongue of the other and wrap with light twine or waxed grafting thread. We make no attempt whatever (o have the grafts of the same size as the stocks so the inner bark vriU meet on both sides, as that is useless and a waste of time. We, however, use the larger grafts on the larger stocks, as there Is more substance in botli, and they generally make firmer and better proportioned grafts, but this is not absolutely necessary. We recommended taking off the outside rough bark over twenty-five years ago when we first discov- ered its importance, yet but few, if any, ap- preciated it. It is, however, a well recognized fact that a grape cutting wiU root sooner and better if the rough bark is taken off the lower end, or the end slightly mashed so as to burst Fig. 4 C ^i^: Fig. 2 Fig. 8 Fiy. 1 Fig. I. Graft sloped and tongued. Fig. 2. Stock prepared for graft. Fig. 3. The two united and tied. Fig. 4. Projecting part after planting. GRAFTING SMALL GRAPE-VINES. the bark and cutting, than if not so treated. Accordingly we find it an advantage in layering the Grape to cut through the bark into the wood or make a slit or twist the layer to burst the bark and wood. Tlie same princijjle liolds true in grafting the Grape by taking off the bark, the moist soil comes in direct contact with the graft, and it unites and roots much sooner, and starts into active growth before the dry weather sets in. For a similar reason we use a long graft that will reach down in the moist soil so the union will take place at once. It is inexpe- dient to make the splice longer than above mentioned, for half an inch of perfect match of inner bark is better than six inches, for the simple reason that the ^ital energy con- centrated on a small space will sooner unite than wiien diffused over a large space. For a like reason it is unnecessary to let the end of the graft extend below the splice as we have seen recommended, for it will throw out roots sooner at the splice than six inches or so below it, as the conditions and temperature at tliat point are more favor- able. When tlie grafts are finished pack them away in damp sawdust until you are ready to set them out. If only a few, how- ever, are to be grafted, yott would better de- fer the work until the time to set them out, and then set in open ground at once. The soil they are set in should be deeply stirred, finely pulverized, and made over. Tlien stretcli a line and take a sliarp. bright spade and push the blade with your foot in- to the ground the full length of it close by the side of the line, and push the top or handle from you, w hich will open a space back of the blade large and deep enough to set the grafts in. An assistant sliould have the grafts in a bucket of water and set and hold them in place until the spade is withdrawn. Then thrust the blade into the ground a few inches ahead of the graft, press the soil tight against it, and so continue tmtil the work is done. Cultivate deeply and often throughout the season, and keep the weeds down. If aU the work is well done, at least ninety-five per cent of the grafts will grow. Strawberry Growing in Oswego County. L. J. FARMER. OSWEGO CO., N. V. Our soil and climate seem to be peculiarly adapted to the crop. New York City people say oiu' Wilsons are not surpassed in quality, so a re\iew of our methods may be of interest to others. We plant in spring in rows five feet apart, the plants one foot apart in the row. By winter there is a matted row about three feet wide, leaving a two foot path for picking-. Varieties. The Wilson is mostly grown, but many Crescents also. The Wilson seems to revel in the muck beds of .Scriba and in other moist soil, but will not succeed on sandy soils, and here the Crescent does well. New comers are tried, but most of them are discarded. Some few ob- tain fancy prices for Sbarpless, but five quarts of the Crescent can be grown as easily as one of the Sharpless. Recently a new Orange County seed- ling has come forward which receives much praise. The original plant attracted attention by holding the fruit well up from the ground, and by its large size. The plant is dark gieen, and the most vigorous grower I have ever seen. The fruit is light scarlet, but is much larger than Capt. Jack. It is called the Burt SeedUng. Cultivation. The horse is made to do most of this work. Some growers get along by hoeing only twice with an occasional hand weeding after the plants begin to run, but those who hoe more get better fruit and more of it. However we do not give the highest cultivation as after one or two crops the plants are turned under. Mulching. Before winter some growers cover their fields with straw, while many give no pro- tection at all. I favor protection, for fields un- protected were injured by driving winds last winter (the gi-ound being bare of snow), and thawing in the spring. Those who give protec- tion draw the stravv into the paths for conven- ience of pickers, and those who do not, allow weeds to grow, which keep the dirt from spatter- ing on the berries in rainy weather. We give no spring cultivation, although it is beneficial should droughts occur. Last spring I dug plants from between the rows, which loosened up the soil quite deep. I midched these rows like the others, and in the drought of fruiting time we picked the largest and best fruit from these rows. Picking. Before picking time a packing house is made, the crates overhauled, and every thing made ready for business. We use the Baker crate, holding 3(1 quarts, invented and manufactured near Oswego. The commission men prefer this to the 32 quart package. Most of the pickers are obtained from sections remote from railroads, where Strawberries are not grown. They receive one and one-half cents per quart and board, and are paid at close of season. For picking we use i quart picking stands or " bandies " with no legs. For keeping account with the pickers, we have a system in- vented and patented by a young man of our county. It consists of a pimch like a conductor's and cards the shape of shipping tags, checked off into four rows of little squres. On one half of the card in each of these little spaces is printed " 1 qt.,"' on the other " 4 qts." The whole number of (its. on the card is 100. At the top of the card above the place for the picker's name, is a hole for passing a string through. The .string is placed around the picker's neck, the.cord hanging loose. In the morning each picker as he an ives is given a row by the man having charge of them, and as fsist as each fills his baskets they are ex- changed for an empt.v set by the same man, who also punches to correspond with the berries picked and carries the lierries to the packing house. An active man will tend 20 to 30 pickers, carrying as he does four handles or sixteen quarts to a trip. When the berries arrive at the packing house they are taken from the bandies, leveled off and then placed in the crates. We do not " plate," as buyers will turn out a basket, and if the ber- ries are found to be poor in the bottom, the whole crate is condemned as inferior stock. Most pickers, especially women, are honest, but some put in leaves or rotten berries. To correct this a basket of berries is frequently turned out in the pi-csence of each picker and if fault.v the picker is given a little advice. If too much scolding is indulged in, the pickers will soon he sitting on the fence. When the patch is picked over the berries are drawn to the station in spring wagons 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 119 Shipping. Wcship by fieiifht trightly vinous flavor, and free from the sickly, sweet tastti of some kinds of our best dessert Pears. The caly.x is closed with segments very small whorled or contorted. The Pear is, according to its originator, a seed- ling of either the Duchess or Flemish Beauty (we think it is of the laterl. Tree a medium to strong grower, with a half spreading top. Bark smooth with the color of wild crab apple. The tree holds THE COLES PEAR. it fruit tenaciously, a valuable feature in fruits set in exposed windy locations. It does not part with its foliage until frost. An excellent bearer. The season in Kansas is from September to Nov- ember. Our specimens kept well until Novem- ber 10th, when they were cut for description. &X>. Lime for Orapes. A thin dressing of lime applied to the vines and well worked in around them would prove decidedlj- beneficial to them in most situations.- C. E. P. 6Xt. Cloth Cover for Cabbage Plant Baising. Cloth suitiibly prepared will answer for raising Cabbage and similar plants and possesses at least one advantage over glass in the matter of \-enti- lation, as, while glass on sunny days requires care- ful management to prevent the plants burning, the cloth can be used without danger. On frames it need not be removed, unless for watering, until the plants are ready to pull. For rendering cloth waterproof, the following preparation is recommended: Heat one quart of linseed oil, either raw or boiled, one ounce of juilverized sugar of lead and four ounces of pulverized resin, in an iron \'es,sel until dissolved: thoroughly mix- ing while hot. :ii>?ily one c•- 13.3 May 13 June 6 June 29 7,195 SSflH 26.8 May 13 J\me 13 July 7 2,090 658 193^ 49^ 9.6 2.4 10.2 13.4 May 13 June 11 July 6 4,995 772 5544^ 77M 27.5 3.8 9. 9.9 May 20 June 18 July 13 4,680 503 4^ 79i| 28.6 3.9 8.2 6.3 May n June 10 July 8 4,145 633 72 22.9 3.6 9. 8.8 May 16 June 7 July 5 5,380 776 617^ 13.3M 30.8 4.5 8.7 8.5 May 14 June 14 July 9 6,500 1,418 571?* 28.5 6.6 11.3 10.6 May 20 June 18 July 14 3,010 410 mii 76 27.1 3.8 5.5 5.4 MaylJ June 15 July 8 1,120 341 TiH 18J^ 3.6 .9 14.4 18.4 May 12 June 17 July 19 6,3-20 892 1,026% 138^ 51.3 6.9 6.1 6.4 May 16 June 15 July 13 5,115 1,106 575 127 28.7 6.3 8.9 8.7 May 14 June 15 July 8 7,300 781 672>^ 70 33.6 3.6 10.8 11.1 May 13 June 11 July 16 545 179 4«'-« 18 2.4 .9 11.3 10. May 16 June 14 July 14 2,580 417 316« 6.3^ 15.8 3.1 8.1 6.5 May 14 June 11 July 12 7,020 890 778% 921^ 38.9 4.6 9. 9.6 May 16 June 13 July U 5,246 800 666!| 74M 33.3 3.7 7.8 10.8 May 13 June 11 July 7 6,'260 1,086 627jft 102 81.3 5.1 9.9 10.6 May 17 June 15 July 9 6,750 1,043 1,046m 115 7-9 52.3 5.7 6.4 9. May 12 June 15 July 9 1,004 1:33 5-6 6.6 7.4 May 16 June 8 July 9 364 54 2.7 6.8 May 14 June 9 July 10 2,865 584 516H 91« 25.8 4.5 5.5 6.5 May 12 June 15 July 8 6,640 1,254 mm 109 81.9 5.4 10. 11.5 May 14 June 15 July 9 6.015 1,107 7.56JS 145 37.8 7.2 7.9 7.5 May 20 June 15 July 9 4,495 489 585 ."iO^ 29.2 2.7 7.7 8.8 May 16 June 14 July 2 2,885 455 4^ 7-5% '26.6 3.7 5.4 6. May 12 June 7 July 1 7,635 1,803 130 23 7 6.5 16.1 13.9 May 12 June 14 July 13 7,920 1,421 846M 176 42.3 8.8 9.4 8. 23 34 25 26 28 28 25 26 23 32 28 ■23 35 30 31 28 26 24 24 31 31 23 24 24 18 24 29 below of their yield appeared in the recent report of the Assistant Horticulturist of the Station, and our contributor, Mr. M. H. Beckwith. Two rows of each variety were planted, the rows 50 feet long and four feet apart, and 2.5 plants in each row. The matted rows were from three to five feet in width and thickly filled with plants in the rows, grown in hills. The runners were cut off and not allowed to form plants. The yields of the rows grown in hills are computed for 25 plants or 50 feet of row; the yields from the matted rows are com- puted for the same length of row. The fruit picked from ten feet in length of the matted row was used in computing the yield. The average number of berries per ounce for each row, also the yields in quarts as computed, allowing 20 ounces of fruit per quart, together with other data, are given in the table. It appears that CoviU's Early was the earliest in this list, and Cornelia and Jersey Queen the latest to ripen. The Lennig's White and Jumbo remained in bearing the greatest and the Sharpless the least number of days. The greatest number of berries was ob- tained from the matted row of the Mt. Ver- non, t\ie least from Lennig's White. The hill row producing the gi-eatest num- ber of berries was the Wilson, the least Lennig's ■\\Tiite ; Woodruff' No. 1 the great- est weight of fruit, and Lennig's White the least weight. The average number of berries per ounce from the matted rows was 9.3, from hill rows 8.1. Average yield per matted row 32 quarts, per hill row 7.3 quarts. Covin's Early.— Plant dwarfish, vigorous; leaves dark glaucous green ; fruit medium size, somewhat resembles the Wilson in form, dull reddish color; seeds light yellow, very prominent, giving the berry a rather uninviting appearance; flesh very firm, bright scarlet color ; flavor only fair ; fruit stalks short; season early. Slightly blighted. in severe climates for nursery, stem and orchard top working the choice but far less hardy dessert Apples on? This is a vast, new, and I believe for us in the cold Northmost promisingfleld. Selected rather slender growers as Golden Russet, Romanstem, Jonathan and Rome Beauty will doubtless be less liable to overgrow the slower growing Crab stocks. Some sorts of cultivated Apples will do better than others on Siberian stocks. But if I had more trees of any sort of Siberian than I needed for fruit, I would certainly top graft them this coming spring. Of course your readers all know how to bud or graft successfully. If not. they should hasten to learn this spring or summer with- out fail. For cleft grafting in the cold north choose limbs not over an inch in diameter. Whip or splice grafting small limbs the size of cion or a little larger makes a perfect union the same season. As to best varieties to be grafted on Siber- ian trees in the present dearth of knowledge, I would graft besides those above named Chenango, Strawberry, Mother, Stark, Wealthy, Fameuse, Willowtwig and any others I wanted. Such as Swaar, Rhode Island Greening, Fall Pippin might over- grow and be less sightly or durable, but I think are worthy of trial. Experiments with Siberian stocks are now in order. Hints on Peach Culture. .1. LUTHER BOWEIW. HERNDON, VA. ' The writer's experience after 35 years of successful culture has been: To get fine large Peaches the soil should be cultivated every year and kept free from weeds. If old neglected trees are cut back so as to form new sprouts, and these each succeed- ing year cut back one-half to two-thirds, finer fruit will be obtained. The best time to prune here is as the leaves begin to fall. By cutting away surplus wood at this time the vital powers of the tree are better prepared to push forward a vigorous growth in the spring. If pruning 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. T2I has not been done before, then tlie warm (lays of February (or March fiutlier north) are next best. Let young trees be started with low heads, the lower limbs not over two feet from the ground. Every fall before freezing weather 1 scrape away from around the base of the tree weeds, grass, and soil and dig out borers and leave these parts exposed until spring, .hist before blooming time I ptit from one ([uart to one-half gallon of imleached ashes ai'onnd the base of each tree. I have never had tlu' yellows to attack a tree so treated. A wash made of .5 lbs. of concentrated lye, 1 peck of stone lime aud n lbs. of lard makes a wash that will make the bark of a Peach tree almost as smooth as glass. Dissolve tlie lye in .5 gallons of boiling water; slack the lime in h gallons of boiling water, and heat the lard to a boiling point. While all the parts are hot, mix in a barrel or large tub, adding ten gallons more boiling water. When cool ajiply to the tnink and large limbs. An old broom is tlie best thing to use. Do not apply after the tree is in leaf. A Fine Michigan Vineyard. F. E. SKEELS, GRAND RAPIDS, MICH. It is probable that nowhere this side of California could be duplicated the sight we saw here at the vineyards of H. H. Hayes in Ottawa County, this State, on the occasion of the last September meeting of the Grand River Horticultural Society at this place. The vines were weighted down with mas- sive clusters of fruit, very tew of them weighing less than half a pound each, and eight bunches showu weighed together nine pounds; a si.x inch piece cut fi-om one vine held five pounds of Grapes. The vineyard contains about ten acres of bearing vines, .situated upon a high hill of heavy clay loam, and is all of one variety— the Niagara. As the club reassembled after its trip to the vine- yard, Mr. Hayes told how these things were. About sixteen years ago Mi-. Hayes' family had settled here, and for some years had straggled along on short rations, raising common farm products, until in 1884 he was offered *10l) per acre for his farm, the would- be purchaser dropping the remark that he wanted it for a Grape farm. But Mr. H. thought it worth a.s much to himself as any- body, and undertook the planting and care of a vineyard himself, with the success we saw. Mr. Hayes has never neglected the care of his vineyard a moment since plant- ing it out, and has devoted much time to the study of the habits of the vine, and at- tributes his success largely to points learned at the horticultnral meetings. One point which he emphasized strongly was that he never allowed a crust to form on the surface after a light or heavy shower, always keeping the soil well worked and mellow. No fertilizers were applied the first year after planting, but each succeed- ing .spring he applies unleached wood ashes and raw bone dust, at the rate of a peck of ashes and a pound of bone dust for every vine; the ashes and bone dust being thor- oughly mixed are applied broadcast all over the vineyard, and immediately after the sower comes the haiTow working the fertil- izers beneath the surface. .Just before winter sets in in earnest he applies about a bushel of well rotted com- post to each vine as a mulch and as a pro- tection from too severe frost. With this treatment his vines had never sustained auy injury from winter. His trellis consists of two wires, and each vine sends out two hit- erals from each side along the wires, the laterals iH'ing nipped off at the eighth bud. .fust after forming fruit thinning is coni- nienced, tini.shing up in .June by removing every loose, misshaped or misplaced cluster and arranging the remainder so that they will have room to grow and be harvested without damage. No shoots are allowed from either the root or the main vine, his aim being to throw- all growth into leaves not needed by the fruit. IVl. B. Faxon on Crowing Garden Veg- etables. 1)11 till- supposition that a garden of one acre has been prepared and is remiy for plantuig, first lay it off in rows, uniformly if possilile, and next assign to each intended crop the rows or portions of rows that will be suitable for it to occupy. Ijct it be as- sumed that the piece is oblong in shape, one hundred feet wide and four hundred and thirty-si.\ feet long; this to be so divided into rows as to give one hundred and nine rows each one hundred feet long; each row being understood to include a surface of one foot wide, on which would be placed the seeds or plants; there would then be left an interval of three feet between each planted strip and the next one, affording ample space for horse cultivation. AsPAR.\GUS.— The roots should be planted at intervals of twelve inches in the row, the crowns from four to six inches Jjelow the surface. The spring is the preferable time. Two-year-old roots should be used; and it is not desirable to cut Asparagus for the table until the .second season from the planting, but afterwards it may be cut annually. The variety known as Conover's Colossal is recommende, and the garden will not look as neat and tidy as it should. For first early, the early Dan O'Kourke and First-and-Best are good as any. For second early. Bliss's American Wonder, McLean's Advancer and Yorkshire Hero. For the general crop. Champion of England, Car- ter's Stratagem, and Bliss's Ever-bearing The green, wrinkled kinds are more tender than the white ones and should not be planted till later. It is better to plant too many than too few. It will be well to plant six rows, say as follows: As soon as the ground can be worked sow- a row of Early Dan O'Kourke. These will be ready for the table June 17. and will supply us till the •i5th or ;3tith. About April 20, or a little later than the above planting, put in a row of First-and-Best, which can be picked be- 122 POPULAR GARDENING. March, tween June 25 and July 1 or 2; then Bliss's American Wonder (if it has been planted about the 35th of April) will be ready for picking; and next in order will come McLean's Little Gem, McLean's Advancer, Yorkshire Hero, and Champion of England. The Radish.— This will thrive in any good soil, but t« be crisp and tender must be grown quickly. If a continuous supply is wanted, make sowings every ten days or two weeks. French Breakfast and Early Long Scarlet are both excellent. Half a row, planted at Intervals, will be sufficient. The Turnip.— Turnips are propagated from seed and they do not bear transplant- ing. The chief difficulty with them is their coming up so thickly together, which makes a great deal of trouble in thinning out. Early crops are sown as early as possible in the spring; Swede Turnips later, about June 1; while the purple-top varieties may be planted either early or late; and from sow- ings as late as Aug. 15 good crops may be secured. The Sweet German and also Car- ter's Imperial Swede are good for winter use. The first-named is commonly known as the Cape Turnip and is raised extensively on Cape Cod; its flesh is white; that of the Imperial Swede is yellow. At least three rows of Turnips of the different varieties should be planted. From the 1st to the 1.5th of August many spaces of our ground will have been cleared by the gathering of early vegetables, and may be used to good pur- pose with little labor by sovring with the Purple Top Turnip.— Before Massachusetts Horticultural Society. Notes on the February Number. WM. F. BASSETT, HAMMONTON, N. J. Work for Winter, r. 97.— In pruning Blackberry canes, all those swellings which are found in the Wilson and Wilson Jr. should be cut off and the waste burned. These swellings are the work of a borer which comes out when the plants are in bloom and deposits its eggs on the new canes, and this is the only effectual method of destroying them. All the fruit which sets above these ripens imperfectly; nothing Is lost by cutting below them. Rhubarb at the South, p. 9T.— Too high summer temperature causes the roots to de- cay and become hollow, and it requires dividing and replanting once in two years. We succeed here in Southern New Jersey by renewing, thus making the soil very rich. A neighbor gets a magniflcent growth of Linnaeus Rhubarb in low land which receives the surface drainage of all the adjacent land and streets for a mile or more, to such an extent that water often stands a foot in depth for several days. Try planting it on a sharp northern slope or on the north side of a high fence or build- ing and mulch it heavily with swamp moss. Propagation of Red Raspberry Plants, l>. 97. — I once manured a newly planted patch of Cuthbert with horse manure from a stable where cedar shingle sawings had been very freely used for bedding, and wherever the roots struck a mass of this material buds were formed in great abun- An Improved Asijaragxis Knife. dance. Probably vei-y coarse strawy ma- nure would have the same effect and pro- duce plenty of suckers the following season. Varieties of Raspberry, p. 103.— When Hansen succeeds I like it better than Tur- ner, even for family use. It is earlier and larger, and I cannot see that it is inferior in quality. Hopkins is more than slightly smaller than Gregg, but is far better in quality. Ohio, as grown here, is nearly all hard seeds, and I cannot help suspecting that this is what causes it to weigh so much more than the others when evaporated. Tobacco Fumigation, p. 105.— The state- ment that Tobacco smoke will not injure the t«nderest plant when cool hardly ac- cords with my experience. I always expect the foliage of Smilax and some other plants to get browned when I fumigate, even if at considerable distance from the fumigator. Garden Walks, p. 106.— Walks, whether in the garden or elsewhere, are much nicer in wet weather if made of quite sandy loam, and in dry weather it is as good as clay loam. Fuchsias, p. 106. — As these must be kept grovring rapidly to bloom well, old plants are much better if cut back very severely in early spring, then give them pots one or two sizes larger, leaving a little space in the new pot at the top and aroimd the ball of earth, and apply one-half to two ounces of dry hen manure (according to size of plants) and cover with a little soil or swamp moss. Strawberries for Profit, p. 113.— Cres- cent can be made to yield a very heavy crop and nearly all large berries by the following plan : Plant in rows three or three and one- half feet apart, and plants two to three feet in the row, of course planting every third row of some staminate, in land made very rich. Allow enough of the first runners to grow to All in plants in the rows to 6 inches apart, placing them by hand, after which cut all runners as fast as tfiry appear. This may seem like a tedious job, but I think the extra labor will be offset by the reduced labor in picking the fruit the next season. Probably those who ship sandy fruit do not realize that the constant jarring and thumping together in transit imbeds the dirt and sand into the berries so that it cannot be rinsed off as when brought in from the fields for home use. Mr. Thomp- son's list of varieties may be all right for his locality, but Mt. Vernon is worthless here. How do you Cut your Asparagus? There have been improvements from time to time in the making of Asparagus knives, until the desirable form figm-ed herewith has been reached. In one of the earlier forms the blade, which was strong and fixed in a handle, was blunt at the sides, but with a sharp end like a chisel. Another had a blade slightly hooked and with saw-shaped teeth at the end. The better form, which is here illustrated, is sen'ated both at the end and one side, and this one is destined to come into wide use. This improved Aspara- gus knife is kept for sale by a number of our leading dealers in gardening implements. wide, or scantling of the same length, are nailed along the top of the posts. For retaining the berry bushes, either slats or wires may be used, nailing four of these horizontally from post to post on each side. This brings the slats or wires that are oppo- site each other nine inches apart, and it is in these spaces that the canes are trained. Why I like this trellise is that I can by its use grow Blackberries in my garden with Blackberries in the Garden. A chief objection to the culture of Black- berries for home use is the spreading habit of the thorny canes, which, without mercy, lay hold of those who happen to brush against them. To overcome this objection to a fruit most desirable in other respects, a corres- pondent, W. G. Raines, Litchfield Co., Conn., employs a trellis for confining the growth, which we have thought well enough of to have had engraved. Our corre- spondent refers to the trellis as follows : " Along my Blackberry rows, which by this method I can place as close as four feet from each other, with the plants about two and one-half feet in the row, I set posts at eight feet apart. If the posts vary in thick- ness I set one side to line, and then nail a nine inch board up and down any posts that are less than nine inches through, bringing the front of such boards to the line. If it is desired to give the trellis a finished appear- ance as well as to add to its stability a line of inch boards, 16 feet long and 6 inches Blaekbenij TreUm in Garden. scarcely more inconvenience than Grape vines. I can till closely to them, keeping down all weeds, and twice the number of plants can easily be grown to the same area, as without its use. Is Grape Growing Overdone? One- Cent-a-Pound Grapes. At a recent meeting of the Grape-growers of the adjoining coimty of Chautauqua the question, "If we raise better Grapes than othei; sections can the business be overdone? met with the following consideration : Mr. Ryckman. — Certainly not. In Phila- delphia our fruit side by side with that of other sections sold for one cent a pound more. We shall make money even if we get prices lower than at present. More money can be made raising Grapes at a cent a pound than in any other kind of farming. An acre of good bearing vineyard ought to yield three tons, which at one cent per pound are worth $60. A hundred acres would bear .*6,000 worth of fruit. The entire annual outlay would not exceed $2,500. This leaves a profit of *.3,.500. Mr. Becker.— A vineyardist cannot raise Grapes at one cent per pound and live. I read only the other day that Grapes had sold for one ceut per pound at Hammonds- port and the statement was made that such prices meant ruin to growers in that section. Mr. Ryckman.— I have given you the facts and you can figure it up for yourselves. A man to make money in Grapes at one cent per pound must grow Grapes and nothing else. A farmer has no business to grow Grapes. His seed time, haying and harvest- ing, each interfere with his vineyards. He will neglect his vines when they need care, and he cannot make money in Grapes at much less than a cent per pound. I know this by experience ; whatever happens my Grape-vines are going to be cared for. Mr. Watson.— I do not wish to raise cent a pound Grapes. A hundred acre vineyard would involve a vast outlay for land, vines, posts, wire and labor, on all of which inter- est should be allowed. I don't believe a hundred acres would average three tons per acre each year. It may be done in a small, favorable spot, but not on a large scale. Twenty-five dollars per acre is not enough for expenses. The picking and packing of a ton costs U to $13 per acre. The remain- ing *;13 is not enough for pruning, tying, plowing, cultivating, etc. All these things considered I conclude that Grapes cannot be raised at a cent per pound. I agree in the main with Mr. Ryckman. I don't believe in the plan of letting weeds grow lat« in the season to hold the snow during winter. It may do in some seasons, but often we have a long late drought during which the weeds injure both fruit and vines. I prefer to plant my vines nine feet apart each way. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 123 WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BY A. M. PURDY, PALMYRA. N. Y. Evaporated Ra.spbehries. In answer to several enquiries as to wliy Red Raspberries sell so ninch liigher than black, we would say, that it takes abo)it }i more fresh fruit to make a pound of dried fruit. Tlie best Red Raspberry we have tried for drying is the Cuthbert. Of course twenty pounds of blacks are dried to one pound of reds, and too blacks grow and yield on soil and in localities where the reds are not productive. Now we would say in answer to one enquirer that our harvested Raspl)erries dried sold for about 20 per cent less than the hand picked, but considering that the cost of liar- vesting is not over one-fourth as much, t)ie difference in profits is in favor of the former. Strawberries in Matted Hills. These are gown by setting strong plants 3 feet apart each way and keeping them thoroughly cult i- vated both ways. As they begin to throw out runners the cultivator must be kept going quite often both ways so as to prevent the young plants from setting far away from the old plants. By fall the young plants setting around near the original plant form a compact, matted hill 12 to 18 inches .square. These matted hill beds yield as much fruit in bulk as matted rows, and of larger and more uniform size, while the work of linger picking is not near as much. Try a plot the coming season and see if you don't like it. The following season they will be allowed to run one way and form matted rows. Covering Strawberries. If not done before it should be at once if growing on land that is liable to heave. It's the early spring thawing and freezing that does the great damage, and mulching prevents this. Grapes Under Glass. How many old greenhouses there are that might liave two to four of the more tender and delicious Grapes growing under them, and yet not interfere in the least with growing or forcing plants in the beds. Boiled Cider. A Chicago commission merchant informed us that he was getting quite a sale for boiled cider, say boiled down 7.5 per cent. We trust some such trade may be started up as it would be a great help to evaporating fruits in using up skins, cores and trimmings by pressing them into cider and boiling this down. There ought to be a good trade worked up, as all favor boiled cider for making sauce, vinegar, etc. Peach growing is made more successful by Mr. Rutter of Pennsylvania by throwing up against each tree half a peck of unslacked lime, say twice a year, and covering this over with a little earth. Thus covered it slacks slowly and scalds out the grub. A certain writer says he tried to kill a few Peach trees by shoveling up against the bodies quick lime, and when, during a rain, he saw the trees enveloped in smoke for half an hour he thought they were gone sure, but it proved a great benefit to the trees. We know of no better or safer way to keep grubs out of Peach trees than to dig earth away for two inches below surface and mud tree loosely with tar paper, and draw earth up against this. Of course the tarred side of the paper should be out and not in or against the bark of the tree. Forcing Cucimbers, Melons, Etc. Be sure to put a few inverted sods in the hot- bed or greenhouse and plant on these seed, and when soils are planted outdoors cover them over with small square frames covered with glass or cloth. Large Versus S.mall Trees. No greater mistake is made by a large number than ordering the largest or " bearing " size trees and vines. It's a well known fact that no nurseryman can take nyi large trees and save or retain a large proportion of the roots, especially of the finer roots or fibers, as the.se grow at the extremities of the roots and are generally out off in digging, while with small trees the roots are close together and the fibers mostly gnarled. Thirty years ago we set out an orchard of two, three and four year trees. Within five years time the youngest trees were as large as the others, and much fairer and healthier every way, and we know that none could have taken more pams to dig and set them than did we. Cutting back Blackberries and Rasp- berries should be attended to this month, say fully one-half of the side branches. Cut worms are cut back and killed out largely by early spring plowing. Salsify or Vegetable Oy.ster should be grown in every garden. The same rules for growing good Parsnips answer for this de- licious vegetable. The seed should be sown as early in the spring as soil will do to work. The soil cannot be made too rich. Plant in rows 18 inches apart and two to three seed to the inch, and these thinned when growing nicely to .3 inches apart. Like Parsnips they can be left in the ground all winter. Hastening Beets and Onions. This may be done by soaking seeds in water for a day or two: then pour off water and mix in dry sand, rubbing well together and then sow- ing in hot-beds thickly, and rows close to- gether in the hot-bed, and as soon as settled weather comes in the spring transplant otit- doors. Many contend that the work of transplanting is not so much as weeding and thinning out where sowed in the field, and also the larger percentage of seed that is thus wasted, and besides at least three to four weeks is gained by starting them thus early, and too by ground being freshly plowed and" prepared when transplanted the weeds are easily kept down and the Onions and Beets get a nice start of such. growing there. Of Strawberries we recom- mend those sorts that make runners freely, like Crescent, Hoffman, Crystal City and May King. So far as we observed the larger fair sorts of tlie North, like Sharpless, Chas. Downing, etc., did not succeed well South. For the South we would recommend hill culture for Raspberries so that they can be kept well worked out both ways. GROWING BERRIES SOUTH. Since our former article relative to grow- ing trees south, we have received numerous inquiries as to growing small fruits, market- ing, etc. In answer to these we would say, first, that until railroad and express com- panies get to be more reasonable in their charges and more reliable as to quick trans- portation, we cannot conscientiously recom- mend any person to go into the business of growing small fruits to ship north for profit. As a specimen, from our grounds in High Point, N. C, we have to pay .*3..50 to ^.00 per 100 lbs. to Philadelphia and New York, and worse than this we have had crates of berries setting on the platform, all billed for northern points, and the express mes- senger refusing to take them on, saying that they could not take any more. As to Peaches, we have known parties there that have bought the best Peaches for 50 cents per bushel and ship them north, when they sold from *2..50 to $3.00, and yet when re- turns came back they had not a cent of profit. The only chance for Peach growers South at present is to evaporate them, which we propose to do from our 3.500 trees. As to growing small fruits we advise fer- tilizing the soil with cow-yard manure or bone dust right under the roots; that is, for Strawberries plow furrows 3,'. J to 4 feet apart and scatter in bottom of them above, and then cover over with soil, and on this set the plants. For Raspberries mark out one way 3V.J to 4 feet with a marker and plough out furrows the other way, and in each place where the mark crosses the furrow, scatter the manure or bone dust and set the plants. This is much better than scattering the manure broad cast, for two important reas- ons. The strong main wood will be made right at the "hill" where the manure is dropped, and suckers will not sprout up much outside of this. The Ttirner and Cuthbert are best red, and Tyler and Ohio best black sorts we saw INTRODUCING A NEW ORAPK. Toronto, Canada. Dear Sir :— I have a seedling G rape from either Mcrriinae, Wilder or Salem. Small hlack fruit, medium sized; close, heavy bunch; very early, ripens end of Augrust; thin skin, occasionally when dead ripe skin cracks, fruit then very sweet; yields a dark, i-uby-colored juice. Makes a rich, hitfh-colored, pretty wine or jelly. Vine perfectly hardy, free from mildew, si)ot or blight; rather large leaf, productive and easy to propagate. This vine, although allowed to grow almost wild amidst surrounding shrubs and in rough grass, yearly jiroduces an abundant crop of fruit. The women folks prefer it to any other varieties, on account of the superior wine and jelly it makes. As a table Grape it is worthless, but for wine or jelly I think it is worth i)ropagating. I should like your opinion of my seedling. W. J. M. This is a sample of many letters that I re- ceive regarding new Grapes, small fruits, etc. To be candid with our friend, we reply that we do not think it will pay him to in- troduce his Grape. This introducing new fruit in the way it is being done is being overdone, and not one introducer in fifty ever realizes enough to pay expenses. The proper course to take is to send a vine to competent judges like Samuel MiUer, of Mo., Campbell of Ohio, Garfield of Mich., Meehan of Pa., and others, and if a large share of these report favorably you may stand one chance in ten of making money. R. I. We do not advise drawing out muck from the swamp directly on the ground where it is to be appUed. It should be hauled out in heaps with lime, coal ashes, common soil or manure mixed with it, and the pile lay a year at least before use. Thos. W. W. It will be safe to plant out small fruits on land that will grow good Com and Po- tatoes, near a market where Strawberries and other berries do not get below .5 to 6 cents per quart. If you can get 8 to 10 cents you can go ahead with assurances of success. R. T. has three old Pear trees that have about run out, and asks if they can be made to renew their age. Try the plan of digging a shallow trench, say one foot deep, six to eight feet away from the body of the tree, and throwing into this a bberal supply of sods, leaf mold, ashes, lime and manure and covering with earth, and then cut away aU dead Umbs and give the body and Umbsagood coat of whitewash. We have seen old Peach trees renewed beyond belief by the process. It your orchard of sixteen years is so luxuriant and does not yield fruit, and the branches are running together, cut out every other tree and trim trees so as to give the sun a chance to the soU and fruit or blossoms. E. B. J. Yes, you can grow the hai-dy sorts of Blackberries, like Snyder, Western Triumph and Taylor successfully, even it they will not stand your winter in Minnesota exposed. This is done by simply digging under one side of the roots and bending them over and covering with earth Just befoi-e winter sets in. E. W. Oneida Co., N. Y. You will find Hall's Japan Honeysuckle the best running rine for screens, as it holds its leaves all winter and does not drop them till the new leaves take their place. It is delightfully fragrant and very pro- fuse in blossoming, every alternate flower being white and yellow. It is also very hardy and a rampant grower. .1. F. asks if the Pear will succeed grafted on Apple stock. We have tried it repeatedly but without success, and to the same correspondent we would say that the party in Wisconsin who is so successful in growing Blackberries by high manuring and laying down in the winter, grows only the dwarf kinds like Snyder and Stone's Hardy. High manuring of such kinds as the Kittatinn.\- will destroy them for fruitfulness. 124 POPULAR GARDENING. March, Double-flowering Forms of the Oxalis. Whether any Oxalis can ever stand higher in the estimation of florists and window gardeners than the wonderfully handsome, easily grown and profuse-blooming sorts, O. rosea (or floribunda of some), O. lutea or O. rosea alba, may well be questioned. But at any rate it will interest many flower lov- ers to know that some double-flowering forms of this favorite class are attract- ing notice in England and elsewhere in Europe. Of one such double flowering kind, Oxalis imbricata, the annexed flgm-e is a good representation. This cut first appeared In the Gardener's Chronicle and was re-engraved for our columns. It shows the flowers as well as the other parts of the plant a little under the average size. Being of a pleasing rose color, and perfectly double, they should prove very attractive little flowers, — indeed we are sure that those of our readers who have met with the usual abundant success with the single rose-colored sort referred to would have a great desire to try their hands on this comparatively new comer. This new species was introduced to Kew, England, from the Cape of Good Hope, through the botanic gardens in Port Elizabeth. The plants and tubers were originally gathered about au miles from the Port. The color Ls a deep rose, and in form the flowers are as double as the most double of Chinese Primroses. Another double Oxalis that has been known but for a few years, and was supposed for a time to be the only one in existence, is Oxalis cernua fl. pi. In this the flowers are umbellate on an erect scape ti inches high, lemon-yellow in color, and as donljle as those here figured. Still another double Oxalis was brought to notice in England in 1888, under the head of "A Wild Double Oxalis from Natal," and named O. seiuiloba rt. pi. Of this Mr. N. E. Brown of the Kew Herbariiun has re- cently .said: "If the plant were intro- duced I think it would prove of even greater horticultural value than the double form of O. imbricata, as the peduncle is several- flowered in O. semiloba, whilst in O. imbri- cata it is but one-flowered. The double form of O. cernua is exceedingly pretty, but I have only seen it once, several years ago, in the collection of Mr. Wilson Saunders, with whom Oxalises were favorites." In 1848 Annee began hybridizing Cannas and obtained the variety called Anneei. But it was not tmtil 18.5.5, when the public squares of Paris were created, that the value of Cannas as garden plants was fully appre- ciated. Since that time they have been much improved, not only at the hands of Annee, but by other horticulturists. The earlier efforts at improvement seem Cannas as Flowering Plants. ARTHUR H. FEWKES, MASS. As flowering plants there are few who seem aware of the possibilities of the Cannas, although their beautiful foliage has long since placed them in the front rank of sub- jects suitable for the sub-tropical garden. To those not well acquainted with their merits as bloomers it needs only to be said that they are of the easiest cultivation, stately in growth, and producing a succession of flowers somewhat resembling and vieing in beauty with the best Gladioluses. A Bit of History. TheoldCannalndica, or Indian Shot, a native of the East and West Indies, was introduced and cultivated as a stove plant in the time of Gerard, about 1.59»i. This, with its variety lutea, were the only Cannas cultivated for more than a hundred years after, and as hot-house plants at that until 184(i, when Th. Annee, the French Consul at Valparaiso, South Amer- ica, brought with him to Paris a considera- ble collection. Part of these were first planted in the open ground with entire suc- cess, and the next year the entire collection. A DOUBLE-FLOWERING OXALIS.— OXALIS IMBRICATA to have been largely directed toward leaf development, but of late attention has been given to the flowers, resulting in some very remarkable varieties, ranging from bright yellow through orange, and the brightest scarlet to deep crimson. It is true the hybridists have not yet suc- ceeded in obtaining fine flowers in connec- tion with the broad, dark, purple leaves of some of the older varieties, but there is reason to expect that at no distant date we may see as flne foliage with the flowering varieties as with the others. The variety M. Ferrand, with its purple leaves and crimson scarlet flowers, shows quite an advance, and Ehemanni, with its broad Musa-like leaves, is not equaled for flowers among the light leaved kinds. The last- named variety, of which too much can hardly be said in praise, made its appearance in 1883. When well grown it attains the height of ten feet, with long spikes of large, droop- ing flowers, i^ inches in length, with petals l}i inches in width, of a rich magenta crimson color. The Banana-like leaves are not much liable to be injured by the wind. Other Varieties. Of other varieties of special value for their flowers, the following may be named : Nnutoiii, one of the most valuable for flowering purposes, is a still newer variety of C. Iridiflora (parent of Ehemanni), growing about seyen or eight feet high, with dark, glaucous green leaves, narrower and more pointed than those of Ehe- manni. The more erect, deep crimson flowers, average in length about 3)^ inches, and spread about 3 inches, with petals an inch in width. Vemiviiis, another new variety, somewhat re- sembles the last in habit, but of lower giowth and with bright crira-fon scarlet flowers. Al- though not quite so free flowering as some of the other varieties, its brilliant color is very effective. Aditli>h Weick is by far the most valuable of the red flowered Cannas, excelling aU others in freedom of bloom and general usefulness. Though not a new variety its great value has been but recently appreciated. It does not con- tent itself with throwing up simple spikes of bloom, but each one branches into four or five side branches, which terminate in very full clusters of flowers of large size and great beauty. When well grown it will average about five feet in height, beginning to flower very early in the season. In pots in the greenhouse it will flower when about two feet high, and if planted in a rich bed in June they will flower all through the summer until cut down by the frost. Pellet iere, a new variety of last season Is almost identical with the preceding, ex- cept in the color of the flowers, which is a bright orange crimson, with dark crimson sepals. Premicci elf NUc. Among yellows there is nothing better than this old variety, which was introduced about twenty years ago. The flowers are large, very freely produced and of a clear, canary yellow color. It reaches the height of about six feet, with pointed, Ught glaucous green leaves. The bright color and freedom with which the flowers are produced make this one of the most useful varieties grown. Abo)idance, a yellow flowered variety of more recent introduction, is very useful in its way. It is of dwarf growth, averaging about four feet in height, with Ught green leaves, and a remarkably free bloomer. The flowers are of good size and thickly set on the spike. In color they are deep yellow, thickly spotted with orange. Safrano. a variety introduced at the same time as the preceding, has proved to be one of the very finest. It is of medium height with long, pointed hght green leaves, and produces its large bright orange colored flowers in great abundance. It begins flowering when very small and con- tinues throughout the season. The foregoing are the most valua- lile for general growing, and when they become better known no garden will be complete without a fair repre- sentation of these plants. In parks or other large grounds there can be nothing more effective than well arranged plantations ot these varieties, they showing to the best advantage when massed in large beds of one color or variety. Cultivation. The cultivation of Cannas is very simple; and while they will grow most anywhere, to obtain the best results the soil should be removed from the beds to the depth of two and one-half feet or more and filled in with a compost of good loam and stable manure in about equal parts. The roots should be planted in this as soon as all danger from frost is past and liberally watered through the summer. Light water- ings will do but little good; the bed should be well drenched and should not be allowed to become dry at any time through the sea- son. Where one has the advantage of a greenhouse it is best to have them well established in six -inch pots by planting-out time. By this means an immediate effect is produced and they are all sure to grow, whereas if dry roots are used it will be some time before they will appear above ground, and .some may never start. In the fall after the frost has destroyed the beauty ot the plants they should be cut down nearly to the ground, the roots lifted and stored away for the winter. They may be either placed in the cellar, packed in boxes of loam, or what is better, where practicable, in the greenhouse beneath the stagings, selecting a place where there will be but little water drip upon them. Water should not be entirely withheld from them through the winter, but enough should be given to keep them from shriveling. This is especially applicable to the varieties above described, as they all have rather long, thin POPULAR GARDENING. 125 root-stocks, which are more liable to shrivel than those which are shorter and thicker. in diameter, and before the advent of snow ours were a picture. Out of a collection of IS sorts there is none to compare with this. Notes on Spring Flowering Bulbs and Hellebore. v.. OBFET. I'ASSAIC CO., S. J. In the January number of Popular G.\u- DKNiNii Mr. Falconer observes "there are very few of the Alliums worth gi'owing as pot plants." I send herewith a specimen of Allium triquetrum, which I think you will admit is one of the few. A 12 inch pan has upwards of 40 tiower stems showing 011 it, each bulb producing 3 stems. The flowers are white keeled with green, with broad, graceful foliage. It seeds freely, and if sown when ripe produces flowering plants first year. It is a native of Algiers. Lachenalias are a class of plants well worthy of cultivation. One of the best is L. Nelsoni, a hybrid variety, resembling Ij. tricolor, but is more robust. The spikes are thrown well up above the foliage, and last about sLx weeks in perfection. Ours are grown in shallow 8-inch pans, several of which are promising a dozen or more spikes of bloom. Another pretty bulbous plant is Tritelia unirtora, and well adapted to pot culture. The flowers are white with a blue line in each petal, and are also sweet scented, riv- aling even the Freesia in this respect. The variety Lilacina has sky blue flowers and is a suitable companion to the type. The Hoop Petticoat Narcissus, (N. bulhn- (■) and varieties, should also be in every collection of spring bulbs. Ours have been flowering for the past six weeks, and very beautiful they are, lasting a longtime, and if taken care of and not allowed to be- come dust dry in summer, they bloom well year after year. All the above do well in an ordinary greenhouse where frost is ex- cluded, and a temperature of 4^' to .50° main- tained. They should be potted in August before root action commences, in sandy loam, a little peat and decayed manure, and will by the display of flowers in spring well repay any attention bestowed on them. We And that to do Montbretia Pottsii well it needs to be kept green through the winter, drying off does not seem to answer. It is not so with M. crocosm*- flora; this may be lifted in Vf-C*I»-^->rv^ cellar with Gladiolus, etc. ^^,»- CRIMSON CARNATION POPPY. and when planted in spring soon grow- rapidly. A bed of it here last sununer was a blaze of color for two months, far superior to its reputed parents, M. Pottsii and Croscosmia aurea, which were growing on either side of it. Apropos of Hellebores there is none to compare with H. niger altifolius, the blooms of which are pure white from 3 to 4 inches About Some Garden Poppies. ELMER E. SCMMEY, ERIE CO., N. Y. Why the Perennial or Oriental Poppies (P((7»ii'ir Orinittilin) as one class were ever subjected to the slight by flower lovers that they seem to bear is not easy to understand, as "we consider their extremely showy qualities when in bloom, together with their moderate demands in the way of attention. As to the latter point it is reduced to about this: A rich, moist, well-drained soil; di- vision and resetting in August after the season's growth is matured (if division is de- ferred, as is sometimes done, until spring. Init a few weak flowers will be had the sami- season). This section really is entitled to a frcmt place among our hardiest perennials. The rich orange-scarlet flowers, borne singly on the rough three-foot flower stems are five or six inches in diameter. They are at their best in the month of June. At the base of each of the four petals is a deep pur- ple-black spot, suggesting a cross. Num- erous purple stamens shower a profusion of golden pollen over the parts, causing an ap- pearance that is plea.sing. Besides increasing by division of the roots, the Perennial Poppy is easily grown from seed. This should be sown some time pre- vious to midsummer for a crop of bloom the following season. An excellent situa- tion in which to grow the plants is the shrubbery border, on its sunniest side, the fiowers showing finely against the backing of green that is afforded. Separate clumps of them in that portion of the grounds de- voted to wild garden are also well in place. The Bracted Oriental Poppy (var. hractc- (ttum) from Siberia is a remarkably fine dwarf form of the Oriental, though scarcely so fi-ee blooming. Its low habit and pleas- ing style of flowers \\ith their green leafy bracts beneath, renders this a most pleas- ing variety. The flowers come in a variety of colors. The Iceland Poppy (P. nuiJicnuloa dwarf species from Siberia and Northern America, has deeply cut leaves, large, rich, yellow and other colored flowers on stems a foot to l."> inches high, and is valuable for the border or rock work, forming rich masses of cup- like blossoms. This, like the preceding one, is easily rai.sed from seed, which is fortunate, as the dwarfs, though they be true peren- nials, seem not to be sufficiently hardy to be generally reliable in our American winters. The Alpine Poppy, a native of the higher Alps in Europe, is another pleasing peren- nial species, to be treated as an annual. Its beautiful white flowers having a yellow cen- ter on stems a foot or less in height, and with its lobed, finely cut foliage is attractive. But notwithstanding the merit of the per- ennial species of Poppies, no doubt the more common, if somewhat less beautiful Poppies of the hardy annual class, will also con- tinue to be popular among flower growers. Of these the seed may be sown either in the fall or spring, but with a gain of several weeks in flowering time, by adopting the former time. The seed should be sown thinly in rich soil where they are wanted to bloom, thinning out the plants to six or eight inches apart. In semi-wild parts of the garden and along drives they may be made a prominent feature, as few other plants, whether hardy or not, will afl:'ord so brilliant and etfective a display, resembling indeed Tulips as seen from a distance. Among the best sorts are the French and German Poppies, known botanically as Pa paver lilHrax, and embracing such varie- ties as Carnation, liauunculus and mcotee Poppies. These latter are double flowering I forms of tlie common red Corn Poppy, and show nearly every shade of color except blue and yellow. In height they range from two feet to three feet. P. iiiiil>riisiini is a striking and showy sort, dazzling scarlet flowers with a jet black blotch on the inner face of each petal, some- times margined with a.shy grey. The black /^ PAPAVER PAVONIUM (PEACOCK POPPY.) spot being conspicuous on the outer surface of the petals it makes of masses of plants a grand display early in summer, following Anemone fulgens, and vieing with it in bril- liancy. This species is a native of the Cau- casus and is a very hardy annual. The Opium Poppy (P. KdiniiifcniiinslumlA also be mentioned. This in its natural state has large, single, variously colored flowers which soon fall away, being succeeded by a capsule from which, when wounded, there exudes a milky juice that on drying forms the opium of commerce. The hybrid varie- ties of this species deserve a place among our most ornamental kinds. They require the same treatment as do other annual sorts. i>"iO. Propagating Large-leaved Begonias. I presume > nu refer to B. Hex ami its \arietie,s. If so, would Siiy that tlie.v euii be ri-adily inureased by taking the older or well matured leaves and euttinsr them in secti()n^^, cutting each section in such a manner as to form a .iunetioii of the nbs lit the lower end of the cuttuit!-. Then lay them in pots or pans filled with :^aiid, and place in a warm, damp place, or place the Ua\es, cut as above clescribed, in 11 warm, clamp part, of the propagating bed.— ('. E. P. riTA. Camellia Management. Do not trim the roots, but about the Uttli nf May plant out in a well enriched border, in a partially shaded situa- tion, and mulch with coarse littery manure. Water whenever necessary, and syringe freely during hot, dry weather. Sponge off the leaves occasionally. About the middle of September take up and repot. Use porous or soft baked pots, and let them be proportional*^' to the size of the plants. Drain the pots well, if the plants are one-third tilled with drainage it is none too much Use a compost cimiposed of two-thirds turfy loam, and one-third well decayed cow ma- nure Never permit the plants to suffer tor want of water at any time, and after the plants are brought inside, place them where an average temperature of from 4U' to .50° is mamtamed. K.vtremes of drought or moisture, or a high lem- piMatinr after the plants are brought inside will cfi-taiMlN Icii.l to ((ropi>iiig of the tnids. When the pUuits an- in a state of growth, they may be given a higher temperature of from 10 to 1.) de- grees.—t'. E. P. .lie. Cyclamen Treatment for Continuous Bloom. To insure as long a season for these as ]i|is cannot lie removed from such without in.iury, as there may not be enough top left to elaborate the How of sap through its leaves. Then the grafts are often destroyed and the tree in.lurcd by what grafters call "flooding." I have seen orchards completely destroyed from such causes. One which I recall—a Bellflower orchard— the owner was led to think would pay better to have grafted. He had it grafted and it is now among the things that were. One of the men who grafted this orchard stated that it had been heavily trimmed ,iust before giaftiug. No doubt a great many times there is more lost than is gained b.\- grafting young, vigorous trees.- B. C. FaiirhWln. Home Made Hanging Baskets. We make ours for ferns and flowers in bad weather in win- ter. Two sizes of wire are required. One to form the framework and strong enough to bear considerable pressure when made into a basket. A pair of pliers and a small cutting instrument to cut the wire into lengths are required. A basket is formed of three circular rings, made of the strongest wli-e. The smallest ring is placed at the bottom, tlie largest at the top, the other size between. Our baskets are made some a foot in size and some quite small. A small ring of a lesser-sized wire is to form the center in the bot- tom, and from this ring pieces of wire just long enough to reach round the sides of the basket and fasten at the top are placed at regular Inter- vals of 2 to 3 inches aU round the basket till the whole is bound neatly and strongly together. Four pieces of wire are then fastened in the top to hang it up by. The whole is painted two ^ coats, and when the jiaint is dry the baskets may be lined with moss, and then UUed with anything ai>propriate. We always cover the sides of the ba.skets with hanging growth, so that no part of the basket is seen. Bhabarb at the South. Our correspondent, H. A. Green, of Chester Co., South Carolina, re- ports it is his experience after several trials, that Rhubarb cannot be successfully grown as far south as his State. He says that other practical gardeners in hLs >icinity have reached the same conclusion. But this does not agree with the statement of that able work. White's Gardening for the .South, at least so far as some States still farther South are concerned. In that work we learn that Rhubarb succeeds perfectly well in middle Georgia. Try again friend Green, ob- serving to plant good roots in a rich, rather light loam, that has been worked two spades deep. The plot should be in an exposed position, open both to air and sunlight. Coverthecrownsabout two inches deep: do not gather any leaves the first year. If any plants fail remove them with the soil near about the roots, and replace both. For new plants you can uncover an old crown and cut from it a bud with a piece of root at- tached. The plants should have the flower-stalk broken out each sea.son after it fairly appears in sight. A coat of manure ought to be scattered over the surface of the patch annually. It is well at the South to plant newly every flve yeais. Hedges. The Barberry, Since the general in- troduction of barb-wire fences, the importance of hedges has greatly diminished, but for both oraament and utility they ma.v still be employed to advantage. The most perfect and really sub- stantial are a union of wire and hedge plant. Formerly the Honey Locust and the Osage Oi-ange made the best bai-riers ; but the Honey Locust requires much and frequent cutting back; and the Osage Orange as much so, with the addi- tional drawback of winter-killing in regions of se\ere winter. The Buckthorn and the Bar- berry arc both hardy, and both have a hedge- like growth, but neither are still' enough alone for farm barriers. But with two or three barb- wires included with them, stretched successively while the hedge is growing in height, they be- come perfect— requiring but little cutting back, forming a stiff hedge, and presenting a fine or- namental apjiearance when kept in good shape. The Purple Barberry is as hardy as the common sort, and makes as good a hedge, and when in bloom early in the season, or in scarlet berries later, is an object of gieat beauty. The plants are ea.sil.v raised from seed, and are very readily and safely transplanted. The Privet has natur- ally a hedgy growth, and is often recommended for hedges, but it is not perfectly hardy, and is liable to die out in patches.— Country Gentleman. Plant Propagation, Aphis, etc. "M. R. W." writes to us as follows : I think February or early in March a most excellent time to raise the summer bedding plants. To those whose space in sunny windows is limited, no better plan than to root the cutting in the same pot with the plant from which it was taken. Take a well ripened cutting, one that will not snap off too easily, pinch out the top and insert to a good depth in the soil; it will root easily, grow and make a thrifty plant for bedding out in May. You may in this way have several dozen made ready with- out taking up any extra room. Has any reader trouble with Aphis on potted Tuhps / I believe GOLDEN DWARF CELERY. {See OppoxlU Page.) in the " ounce of prevention." I have been much pestered in times past, but now when I bring Tulips out of the cellar I just sprinkle " flne-cut " Tobacco over the top of the soil, so that when I water the soil the fumes are enough to disperse, even Mr. Aphis if he chances to be making a friendly call on that shelf. I had a beautiful Salvia splendens, but all of a sudden it began to droll its leaves, and I immediately examined it and found another much to be dreaded insect pest, red spider, at work. I prepared some tepid water, and made quite a suds of whale oU soap, Then taking the pot of Salvia I set m the pan of water, and using an old soft tooth brush, I care- fully washed every leaf, both upper and under side, this I did three times, then sprinkled a little sulphur on top of the soil and the plant is now growing finely, and shows no sign of the attack. About Some Double Flowers. Double Petunias are favorites with many, but in my opinion a flrst-class single variety is much superior; the plants of the finest double soi-ts are so apt to be of poor and sickly growth. The double Lilliput- flowered is, I think, the finest class of doubles, the plants being of dwarf, bushy, healthy growth. The flowers are small, have dark velvety petals, some variegated with white, and what they lack in size is more than made up by numbers. Double Balsams are very erratic things; plants that produce perfectly double flowers to-day may bear nothing but single or semi-double ones a week hence, and perfectly double and single ones are often found on the same plants at the same time. In general the production of double flowers on plants grown from seed is often un- certain from several causes, even when the best of seeds are sown; the soil and character of the season, and also the mode of culture, have more or less influence. Asters show a tendency to be- come the most double in a wet season, while single and semi-double ones are most abundant in a dry one. This is probably due to the well- known law in plant life, that anything which checks growth or threatens the life of the plant causes it to expend its remaining vitality in the efl'ort to iierpetuate its kind in the form of fruit or seeds. High culture and luxuriant growth are, as a rule, most favoiable to the production of double flowers. Double flowers are the result of cultivation— monstrosities from a botanist's point of view— and rarely found in a wild state. —L. IT. Ooodell. DtrigM, Mass. New York Fashions in Flowers. Some new flower-pins introduced by Siebrecht & Wadley are quaint and appropriate. They are ordinaiy long pins, but instead of the usual glass knob they have a bit of bark or natural wood forming the head. Some have the seed of Lilished or varnished. The florists whose business is amongst the most fashionable people all say that set designs and elaborate, evidently labored decorations, are ra!)idly going out of style. One Fifth Avenue florist says he makes surprisingly few funeral designs, but he is often called upon to dec! Meehan. Peach Yellows. At the recent annual meeting of the Peninsula Horticultural Society of Dela- ware, the subject of the yellows in the Peach, which is devastiiting the orchards of Kent County, Delaware, was discussed at length, and the stamping out process advocated. The society will ask the Legislatures of Maryland, Delaware, and Virginia to enact a law compelling growers to destroy all trees affected as soon as discovered. Sub-irrigation. Within the last few months I met a gentleman from Arizona who is perfecting a system of sub-irrigation through pipes laid one foot or more below the surface of the ground, the claim being that water can be let out in small quantities as desired to the roots of trees or other growing plants, and that more than twice as much water would be necessary when applied to the surface of the ground.— PresixJerit Johnson of the Kansas Hm-ticullural Society. Safe Advice about Varieties. Pres't Pearson struck the right key when, at the recent horti- cultural meeting of New Jersey, he deprecated the offering by managers of highest prizes for "largest collections of fruits." regardless of iiuality. He had himself received these prizes for Grapes— "encouraged for e.\hibiting the multiplicity of his misfortunes." The bulk of these large collections are of little value and only serve to occupy space and bother and confuse the e.\ami)iers. Ornamental Trees for the North. The follow- ing list has the endorsement of the Wtsconsin State Horticultural Society. Everynen^ in the order named— White Pine, Norway Spruce, White Spruce, Arbor Vitie, Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine. DccUhwm trees, for timber— White Ash, Black Cherry, Black Walnut, Hickory, Butternut, White Oak, European Larch. Street (rffcx— White Elm, Sugar Maple, Basswood, Ash Leaf Maple, Norway Maple. Hardy shrubs— Snowball, Up- right Honeysuckle, Purple Fringe, Purple- leaved Barberry, Lilac, Black Alder. Celery versus Corn, There is a gentleman liv- ing in Ottawa who la.st season had a Celery bed of about Ave feet in mdth and about one hundred feet in length, in which he grew eight hundred plants that brought him ten cents apiece, or three for twenty-flvc cents. The bed was kept well tilled and watered, and the result was an immense profit for so small a jiiece of land. The way corn has yielded this season it would take at least one hundred acres to make the owner as much money as was procured from that little flve-by-one- hiindred-foot tract.— iriOis of Katisa.i. Gardening for Profit. F. Y. Jarvis recently told, before an Otsego Co., New York Hoj-ticult- ural Society, how he raised 170 bushels of ( inions on a little more than 1-5 of an acre of ground. How, also, he had used about 30 bushels of ma- nure and ashes, and had 200 bushels of Parsnips on 45 rods of ground. Culver Gillette told of the possibilities of a fourth of an acre of ground. He raised and marketed about $3.50 worth from it. He planted Potatoes, Sweet Corn, (lelery. Turnips, Cucumbers, Squashes, Tomatoes, etc. His secret of success was in heavy manuring and thorough cultivation. Enlarging its Field. At the annual meeting of the Western New York Horticultural Society at Rochester, in January, the matter of changing the Society to a State Association was brought up, discussed and favorably acted upi>u, as the following resolutions, which were unanimously adopted, show: Resolved. That the name of the Western New York Horticultural Society be changed to the New Y'ork State Horticidtural Society, and that its sphere of operating be en- larged to cover the entire State, and that its officers be authorized to make such changes and to procure a new charter or amend the old one. Resnlred, That the officers of the said New York State Horticultural Society be requested to peti- tion the Legislature for an annual appropriation of $2,.50O for promoting horticulture in the State. Bees and Fruit. At the December meeting of the Michigan Horticultural Society much testi- mony was taken u pon the old question of whether Bees Injure Maturing Fruit; nearly all in favor of the Bees. Mr. J. A. Pearce had a new point in their fa\or. He said that birds punc- tured a large number of his early Grapes and the juice ran out, disfiguring the clusters, and he thought they would be entirely unsalable. But the Bees came to his rescue and sucked up all the oozing juice, cleaning out the injured Grapes, so that a sUght brush would rub off the dry skins, thus the unpunctured Grapes were clean and he was able to put them on the market, securing fair remuneration for them. Many instances were given where Bees were indispensable in promoting the setting of fruits, especially in Squashes, Melons, etc., and the fertilizing of Beans, Clover and Peas, which could not go on without the aid of the Bees. How They Succeed in Indiana. Prof. Throop, in his lecent paper before the Indiana State So- ciety, mentioned several new Blackberries which had been tested at the college farm. Early Har- vest he thought of little account, not perfectly hard.v; Wilson Jr., likewise, vei'y promising in other respects, was too tender for the rigors of the Northern Indiana winters. His opinion of the Snyder was in accord with the sentiments of the members of the Society generally, viz.i that it was perfection. The Kelsey Japan Plum win- ter-killed. The Nemaha Black Cap Raspberry takes the lead at the college farm, is nearly as large iis Gregg, is hardier and very productive. Other members of the Society who had tested Nemaha gave it words of praise. Many new Strawbenies were being tried, but a few were very promising. Itaska, strong, healthy plant, very abundant bearer, berries larger and better in flavor than Crescent. Logan was larger than Itaska, very fine in e^■ery point, making a valua- ble Strawberry. Lida and Jessie had made good growth; needed more time for determining merit. Of older Strawberries he thinks Cumberland best. Much of Beauty for Little Money, Take any fanner's dooryard and without much expense or labor it can be transformed into an exfjuisite lawn. A few flowers, a vine over the door, some shrubbery and trees by the roadside will be sug- gested. Here, too, great satisfaction can be got without much outlay of money. It is marvelous what large returns can be obtained from a very small investment. He should not attempt too much in the shape of elaborate gardens and fan- tastic designs. The plain, rich carpet of grass woiUd be preferable to such things. Simplicity always looks better than over-ornamentation. But everyone can rai.se a few of the beautiful old- fiishioned flowers which grow easil.>' and do not re- quire a great amount of attention. Their com- moiuie.ss does not change the immutable laws of proportion and color which constitute the beauty of a Hower or plant. A group of Hollyhocks, Sunflowers or Dahlias in the back-ground, and such flowers as Phloxes, Zinnias, Asters, Lark- spurs, Marigolds or Petunias in api)ropriate places, and Morning Glories and Sweet Peas over the porch will add many fold to the attractive- ness and home-like appearance of hundreds of farms. A few flowering or ornamental shrubs, judiciously placed about (he lawn °, and we ha\"e a place in which a great man.v of oiu- prettiest and easily cultivated species and varie- ties of Orchids may be successfully grown. To think that Orchids can onl.v be grown in a house specially constructed for them is a mistake, as any structure in which a Geranium may be successfully grown will answer the purpose. One Important jioint ought not to be forgotten— that is, the plant should be kept well up to the light. This can be done by using pots on which to stand the plants, or hanging up those that speciallj- need it, and having the stages re-arranged to meet the requireraents. Kinds to Grow. I would strongly recommend commencing with the cool section, and if success attends your eiforts, species and varieties requir- ing more heat may be added afterwards. The following list may be taken as representing the best of pretty, cheap, and easily-cultivated kinds; — Anguloa Clowesii, Cattleya citrina, Cattleya Triana' (at warm end of house), Ccelogj'ne erista- ta, C'ymbidium eburneura, Cypripedium insigne and its varieties, Dendrobium nobile (at the warm end of the house), Epidendrum atropur- purevuu, E. vitellinum majus, Ladia anceps, L. autumnalis, Masdevallia Harryana, M. ignea, M. Lindenii, M. tovarensis, M. Veitchiana, odonto- alossum Alexandre, O. Cervantesii, o. eitros- muni, o. gloriosum, O. grande, O. Pescatorei, O. pidchillum, o. Rossii raajus, O. triumphans, O. ve.villarium (at warm end of house), Oneidium erispum, O. cucnllatura, 1 1. Forbesii, ( I. ornithor- rhynchum, O. tigrinum, Lycaste Skinnerii, Pleione lagenaria, P. maeulata, P. Wallichii, and Sophronitis grandifloni give a good selection with which to begin. As their culture and wants be- come understood and mastered, the chances are that a great many more of the lovely \ arieties will be added. Many have a fancy for some favorite genus, striving to obtain all the gems belonging to it. It does not imply that the rarer a plant is the prettier is the flower. Some of the fabulous prices i)aid for a single plant would be sufficient ti> build and stock a range of < ii'chid hou.ses. There are ho]ies of getting something good among imported plants, as there is alwa.vs great interest in watching them flower for the first time. Seeing that imported plants are natural seedlings, and, it may be hybrids, there is always a difference to be found in the flower of each in- dividual that opens. Certainly, freshly imported plants find a ready sale; and the quantity impor- ted every year 1 irings them well within the reach of the amateur. Potting. The material used in potting Orchids is simple in the extreme compared with what is sometimes recommended for some particidar plant. Good fibrous peat and sphagnum are all that is required for most epiphj-taKJrchids, with, perhaps, the addition of some pieces of charcoal. in potting great care should be taken to use only clean pots, and that the potsherds have been pre- vireak the peat uij; that ma.v be used for something else. There is no law to lay down as to time for potting, but it may be taken as a safe guide that when the plants are st^irting into growth they nia.\' be i>otted if they require it. See that the soil which contjiins no roots, or say that has Iw- cf)me som*, is taken away before potting. This helps to keep the idant in better condition; but if it should not be in a healthy state, all the soil should be carefully taken away, and the i-oots washed in clean water, cutting away with a sharp knife all decayed portions, afterwards re-potting in fresh material. In such cases a few pieces ttf charcoal may be added to the peat and sphag- num. Although there is nothing in the chiircoal itself to help the growth of the plant, it forms a reservoir which stores up and gives off gases fiiMirable to plant life. iTo be concluded next month. \ Successful Onion Culture. IBy Wm. H. Derby, and others, before the Boston Market Oordeners' Association.^ The essayist, Mr. Derby, conflned himself to tlie methods ot Onion growing at Revere, wliere the business has been steadily grow- ing and is fairly profitable. Seed Onions— Seed Baislng. Good seed is a ver.v important item. To grow it one must select carefully the best bulbs and place them in a dry place to keep with the tops on. Early in spring they are set out, after cutting off the old tops if any remain, in rows three feet apart and six inches between the bulbs in the rows. The crop is carefully cultivated and weeded, and in September the seed is cut and stored in a dry place until it can be cleaned. A barrel of Onions will produce about ten pounds of seed in a favor- able year, but sometimes less than half as much. President Kawson remarked that he formerly used to grow Onions from seed, but dm-ing the last four (}v five years had changed his practice. If he could grow the heav.y and fine crops that Kevere land prf)duces he would follow the plan i>f Mr. Derby, but upon his lighter land he found it more profitable to plant sets. The cost of sets, la bushels per acre at $3..'iO is more than double the cost of seed, the labor of planting the .sets is also considerable, but is offset by the saving of labor in weeding, for sets are grown with only one hand weeding, while gi'owing from seed Onions demand three or more band weedings. Moreover the Celery crop which follows the ( )nions can be worked a month earlier where sets are grown and this is often a very great advan- tage. The sets come to market at better prices than are obtained when the Onions from seed come in. So that although the labor is greater and the jield not .so large, as he is situated, there is more profit in the sets. The short crop <>f Onion seed here this year he thought wouUi not affect the price much; the western and southern seed is plenty and good, though the Onions grown from it are flatter than oius, still they are very good and the difference wfudd not be noticed by many. Fitting the Soil. The land at Revere is mostly strong clay loam and works best by apiilying in the fall a heavy dressing of coarse manure, which is plowed in; land thus enriched will admit ot working a week earlier in spring than if not thus heated, a very important point with Onicins, which nuist be planted early, the earUer the better. May 12 being as late as is considered safe. The best crops are usually grown on the strongest clay land. For fertilizers he relied almost entirely upon stable manure, although he had experi- mented with many other things in addition, but had not on the whole received returns enough to warrant a repetition of their use. Mr. Kawson remarked that he had tried man.\- artificial fertilizers alwaj'S in addition to stable manure, but none of them seemed to be very profitable except wood ashes, which he valued highly. He used sulphate of ammonia on Spin- ach, lajwever. Mr. Kirby alluded to the opinion of chemists that Onions need much pota-sh, and to the prac- tice of the late Capt. J. B. Moore of using sid- phate of potash on tJnions; he had followed this practice ami used, with good results, 4()fl lbs. per acre of sulphate of potash in addition to stable manure. Fertilizers of this sort can be applied after the Onions are up. Mr. Hall alluded to the experience of Mr. Proctor of Danvcrs. who had grown good crops of Onions by the application of 50 bushels of wood ashes per acre, without other manure. Culture. The rows are sown 13 inches apart with 9 to l;i .seeds to the foot f)r 3% pounds per acre. If Celery is to be grown on the same land, as is usually done at Revere, each eighth row is left blank for the Celery. Clean culture is xcry important, and for this purpose the Arlington wheel hoe is used very often, and several hand weedings are needed. The crop is housed, after drying in the field with the tops on, and sold as wanted through the fall and winter. His average cr wasHOO t(» 700 bushels per acre on laud, one- eighth of which is occupied by Celery, and on rare occasions he had known 1000 bushels per acre to be grown. Drawbacks. This crop is subject to blight and smut, and is infected by green flies or lice. There is no remedy of much value, though many have been tried. Formerly the Onion growei-sused to grow them continufiusly on the same land, but recently they have adopted the plan of growing them only one or two years in the same place, thiidting that they thus in part avoid diseases. Mr. Derby thiiught blight was the result of excessive heat after heavy rains, or sudden and severe changes of weather in general; after blight appeal's, lice often follow. Mr. Crosby remarked that blight usually made its appearance first on the driest parts of the field, and thought lice were the cause. Mr. Tapley, cited two lots side by side plautcnl with Onions. On one Onions had been grown for several yeai's, but nf)t upon the other; the new land was not affected by blight, while on the old lot blight was general. Mr. Taylor on the contrary had grown Onions many years on the same land with no difficulty from disease. Some Experiences as a Fruit Grower and Exhibitor at Fairs. [Abstract of paper by " Blank Cartridge " before the joint meetiny of the Missouri Valley and Douyla.i.^ County (Kan.) Horticultural Societies, Oct. If).] Twenty-one years ago I entered into the orcliard business with an energy and deter- mination to succeed tliat an insatiable appe- tite for tine fruit can only inspire. Planted about twenty-five acres witli about twenty- five varieties, and for "greatest display grown by e.xhibitor " can defy almost any orchard ot the same size in America. Cropping the Land. Following older heads the first year, I cultivated low crops, such as Cabbage, Potatoes, rabbits and borers. All did well— especially rabbits and borers. Second year drilled wheat north and south, lea\'ing six feet for working trees. Secured good gi'owth of wood, twelve bushels wheat and an ample crop of borers. Third crop was corn, culti\'ating trees as a row of corn leaving about seven feet open space running north and south. Next three crops were wheat, corn, and oats, always leaving seven or eight feet north and south along the rows. Then, following the theory of low crops for three years, clover, gophers and codlin moth, succeeded by wheat. The gophei's were dis- posed of with small ptitatoes primeruning until i>runing has become monotonous and laborious. An experiment on three trees, extending through ten .vears, during which time not a twig was taken away, giving sounder trees and better heads, has satisfied me that Nature prunes more wisely than man, and that the eternal ijruning system is detrimental to our orchards. All pruning is best done in the bud; the thumli-nail the only knife needed. When I began, the cry went up as the " cry of one man " for " low heads " for fruit trees. It would secure our trees against high winds and sun scald; and to a man with no experience and no reason it looked reasonable, and as one of that cla,ss I adopted and practiced the theory. Yes, I have low heads. The Kansas and Missouri State Societies ought to employ a few laminated-steel-rebounding- I30 POPULAR GARDENING. March, Cnltnre of Other Flante, on Peaches. I've planted seed, set trees, budded new varieties and bougrht old ones, plowed, hoed, pruned and wormed: and succeeded one year in five in raising- round-headed borers and peach-coblers sufficient fur a small family. Peal's, except for blight, would be my delight. Out of about 400 trees, perhaps ten sound and healthy ones remain. They are a surer and more remunerative crop than Apples, with neither borei-s nor backache to contend with. Cherries I studied ornithology with a double- barrel shot-gun for ten years in a Cherry or- chard, and can't tell a jaybird from a wood- pecker. Then I applied a little painless den- tistry—extracted about 100 trees by the roots, and planted the ground to horseweed and fox- tail, for i)roflt. tripple-force kickers for the benefit of all advo- cates of "low heads." Tt is a riolation of the law of natural growth. An Apple tree, like a Saratoga belle, will not live without a trunk. No tree should be headed under five and a half feet and spreading grower six to seven feet, to admit of cultivation beneath. The finest Apple trees I have ever seen were ten to fifteen feet to the first branch, pointing fifty feet heavenwards and capable of bearing 100 to 150 bushels of fruit. The first to give up the ghost with me were the lowest; the best now have the longest trunks. Borers, Eternal vigilance and a sharp knife is the price of Borci-s. I've washed, cut and probed for them until my pants knees wei-e hard worn. I've tried soft soap and find it succeeds better with some people than ^Yith worms. I've tried many mixed washes— the knife is the only cure. Once lodged under the bark, nothing will remove them but a supple back, and iron will and a sharp knife. Texas Onions set close around the trees act as a preventive. Babbits. Everybody has heard of Rabbits. Blood-wash is quite good. Corn stalks make a good protection against rabbits and a warm house for field mice mth winter supplies ready at hand. Thoroughly clean culture with hills thrown around the trees is quite safe except in deep, hai-d crusted snows. Strong manilla paper cut in three-inch strips, wrapped upwaids and tied at the top is the best anti-rabbit I've found. Cut the tie in the spring — the paper strips gradually drop to the gi'ound, affording inci- dental protection against borers. A.Yle grease does well but must be washed off in the spring. At last I got an orchard, and those low headed trees just make an old sow laugh. She will learn to jump up, grab the lower limbs and shake like a truant school- boy, untU her shirt bosom is full. son, and Plant RooTs.-Corii Roots one !<• Selling Fruit. The first few 'oics; l Potting SoU, U inches long ; 2 Clay, 4 inches long <7aa», T ,..,„ „ ™ „i ..+ mcheslong; 5 Coat Ashes, 2 inches long ; 6jr ■ ' •^ ■ " years I ran a market wagon, ,ong: s Sphagnum Moss, 7 inches tong; 9 Mi. secured a good set of customera and realized good prices, attaching a silver bat- tery to the pocket nerve. The market wagon became too small; 800 to 1000 barrels must have a faster way to market. Western Kansas, Colorado and Northern Illinois offered ample room, and four years ago I was building up a good trade, shipping direct from the orchard, with an increasing demand I had not facilities to supply. Evaporating has been found a profitable way to dispose of the unmarketable. An evaporator that will use thirty to forty bushels a day, re- quiring a man and boy, will take care of all trail of that grand old pioneer of the vineyard. scraps in a 3.5-acre orchard. Using a small one, I made some fine fruit fibtaining 11)^ to 133^ cts. per lb., with a demand for ten times what I could make. This was packed with a screw press, forty to sixty pounds, in cracker boxes, having a glass face to show fruit without opening. At the Fairs when Kansas City opened her fii'st great fair I entered for the " largest and best collection of Apples." I had 120 plates— about seventy taken from the twenty-five vari- eties originally set— I placed one variety under four names and others under two. I didn't know any better and suppose the committe was in the same fix, as the blue strings ornamented the table, and a twenty-five dollar check— anyone knows how useful such things are. At another fair in the same place I beat the world, and don't you forget it. Crowned with honor and checks for about one-half dozen other premiums, I retired from the field of em- ulation and rested on my laurels. After I had rested until I got tired, at the ear- nest solicitation of " many voters," I announced myself a candidate for the "best display of fruits giown by exhibitor," and for a $25 check of the Secretary. My competitor, without a bearing tree in the world, captured the Secre- tary's invitation to call at the bank, and the mourners went about the streets. He had about 100 varieties. T had about 150,-130 of my own growth. The committee may have been correct, but how 100 varieties a man didn't own could beat 120 of one's own raising is " one thing I ne\'er could see into." The committee reconciled me with ijremiums on winter Pears, dried Apples and Paw-]>aws. My wife just dotes j in his power. The fact is, if we do not move faster than for some yeai's back, other parts of the country will get ahead of us. When this Society was organized, thirt.v odd years ago, its main purpose was to call the atten- tion of farmers to fruit culture as a promising branch of farm industry. From that time we may date our real progress. While we might have done better, and should have done better, I believe I can safely say we have the best and most advanced fruit region in the United States. This humble Society, without state endowment or outside aid of any kind, has exercised a wider influence than even its own members appreciate. Our limited means have nan-owed our influence and it is thought by some of our oldest and wisest members that we should ask for some state aid to enable us to prosecute our work more efficient- ly. We could encourage im- provement by offering prizes for the best managed orchards and gardens and for improvements in the grounds of farmers. I alluded last year to the agri- cultural experiment stations as likely to do valuable work in experimental fruit culture and horticulture. I am fully con- firmed in this opinion from re- ports of many of them recently received. Some of the agricult- ural colleges and state univer- sities are also taking up the same line of experiment, and some of them have already made exten- sive plantations of fruit and forest and ornamental trees. The station in our own state is the most liberally endowed of any, and we have reason to believe it wiU do good work for fruit culture and horticulture, as well as for agriculture. Soil and Plant Boots. From Professor A. N. Prentiss' paper on this subject, we condense the following, the engravings on this page being taken from the dia- k after planting indifferent substances as fol- grams used to iUustrate the '^■'•"."■'IS' '?'W '^ ?""?• " '"-''S^ '^""i ,i-^™J' " paper. In Mr. Prentiss' experi- Brwk Dust,li^ inches long; 1 Sawdust, H inches ^ ^ . , ^ ,, ,, tt . 'i.Ttureofalltheotlierslnlikeproportion,9in.long. ments (made at Cornell Umver- sity)kernels of Corn were planted in the eight different substances named in the heading of the annexed engraving, the diagrams of which illustrate the Corn at the end of one week. At that time no top growth was \-lsible, but the roots were well advanced in the soil, this haring been washed away. In No. 1 is shown the normal appearance of healthy roots, the soil containing all elements required in the propor- tions for plant needs. No. 2 is suggestive of the necessity of a porous soil. Clay being compact in texture, the root cannot so well penetrate and gather all the food required, a shorter and some- what thicker root growth results. In No. 3 we see that sand has qualities, due, perhaps, to the quantity of water it will hold, favorable to root growth for a limited period, as is also evident from its extensive use for propagating beds by florists. No. 4, a substance largely used as a fer- tilizer with common soil, shows that alone it is not sufficient for plant support. Besides a small root being formed, it for some reason took an abnormal couree, growing upwards out of the peat, above the seed, then re-entering it. There can be too much stimulant in the soil. No. 5 and No. 6 are materials in which all \ntality has been desti'oyed by fire, no plant food being contained, except such as is in the water given them. No. 5, however, is of considerable value in combination with No. 2. No. 7, when rightly used (as a manur- ial absorbent) is of value, yet when fresh no food element is free or ready for use. No. 8, while favorable to root formation, has not the water- holding quality of sand, hence the difference of roots, this being of fair length, but very slender. No. 0, a mixture of these various substances in equal proportions, shows that with a sufficiency of plant food as contained in No. 1, 3, 4, the root will make a good heavy growth, the presence of the various other ingredients exerting no very marked effect in opposition. The lesson that seems to be indicated by this single experiment, is that any soil, if supplied with enough of the right kind of material, will produce crops. Other experiments with other seeds may greatly modify, in details, our present impressions, yet the general rule of knowing and then of suppbdng the perfect conditions of plant growth must be the aim of every tiller of the soil. In the way of Plums I raised some remarkably fine crops of gougers and curcullos. Even at the very base of the hen house, which all the while ran wild with chickens, pigs and bugs, they fell. Then I fell down and wept about $100 worth of tears over Damsons, Lombards, Im- perial, Blue and Green Gages; and the wild ones continue to " flourish like a Green Bay tree." I raised some fine crops of Grapes, made some wine, and saw the tracks old Noah made cen- turies ago. As I had no bad boy to curse for laughing at my folly, I declined to follow the abandoned the business, voted local option and marketed my Grapes at 2^ cts. a pound. Meeting of the Western New York Horticultural Society in January. The thirty-third annual meeting of this pioneer Society took place in Rochester, N. Y., .January 2f>th and 2tith. The attendance was large, being if anything above the average. The only drawback to the entire meeting was that Pres. Barry could not be present on account of the very stormy weather and his somewhat feeble health. He. however, had a tine display of late keep- ing Apples and Pears. A number of other members also exhibited various fruits. The following new otticers were elected: Presi- dent, Patrick Barry, Rochester; Vice-Presi- dents, S. D. Willard, (Geneva; W. Brown Smith, Syracuse; J. S. Woodward, Lockport; W. C. Barry, Rochester; Secretary and Treasurer, P. C. Reynolds, Rochester. We have in the present issue room for but a few brief extracts of the proceedings, as follows: From Pres. Barry's Address. I think most of us will be able to say, as regards business, that we have had on the whole a fair average year. Western New York, with her temperate chmate, fertile soil, railway facilities, and proximity to the great markets, should be made the garden of America, and I hope every one present will de- termine to aid in making her so, as far as may he i888. POPULAR GARDENING. Cold Storage. Mr. P. B. Crandall, Ithaca. X. Y., in a paper suggested that liuildinRS like milk- houses used in the West seem to offer perfect iHinditions for the preservation of fruit, as the variation in temperature from .50° does not ex- i-eed .'J", though out-of-doors it may range from 1 10° above to 40° below zero. The required con- ditions for success in this matter being simply a building in which temperature and atmosphere is under control, a perfect condition of the fruit when placed therein, a temperature low enough to prevent ripening, yet not so low (32° or under) as to cause suspension of natural forces. The use of ice has in many Instances proven unsatis- factory, is not absolutely required, and the fruit when removed decays quickly. In the discussion it was i-ecommended that fruit be left outside on the north side of build- ings as long as possible before putting in the pre8er\'ing house. Houses above surface were preferred to underground cellars, as in the latter fruit is liable to be tainted. Pear Culttire; Blight. Hooker, Kochester. Plenty of manure i-equired. Fire blight seems to disappear under the use of launders' remedy, composed of one peck lime, ten povuids sulphur and one ounce carbolic acid. The tree trunks are washed in it in May, and alter blossoms fall it is used to spray the foliage. Moody, Lockport, had also used it successfully on an orchard of ten thousand trees, mostly Bartletts, though the KeifEer had of late been the most profitable. Anjou not doing so well as formerly. Willard, Geneva. Keiffer highly esteemed in Philadelphia market. Profitable. Barry, Roches- ter, did not believe that the Keiffer is the coming Pear. Is not of high quality and thought that where a market for such a grade existed, the outlook for the future of a high grade was flatter- ing indeed. Of winter sorts, Lawrence is early and good. Vicar, can be kept till Ajiril. Joseph- ine, splendid variety, good grower, high vitality. Winter Nellis, with highest culture, and Anjou are the best, all points considered. Smith, Ss'racuse. Salts the ground under the trees after snow leaves, as a Ciu-culio remedy. FROM VARIOUS SOURCES. Hovel Form of Ventilator. The ventilator herewith illustrated, and recently described in La Nature, should be of use for improving the draft of greenhouse furnaces, flues, etc.. as weU as of drying houses. It is constructed on the same principle as the steam injector, used for feeding water into steam boilers. It consists of a revolving cap provided with a vane which turns it away from the wind. Inside the cap is a tube with an exterior opening, through which the wind blows in the direction of the arrows. This current induces another current in an up- ward direction through the chimney, just as the A NEW FORM OF VENTILATOR, jet of steam passing through an injector carries along with it a stream of water. A more famil- iar illustration of the same principle Ls seen in the common perfume atomizer, in which a cur- rent of ail-, jiassin? across the to)) of a tube dip- ping into the pert'ume. draws the liquid up through the tube, and blows it into a fine spray. As this form of ventilator is not dependent upon a current of heated air from the fire, it is also applicable to the ^'entilation of closed chambeiN. vaults, and similar phu-es where otfensi^■e or dan- gerous gases are present. The principal disad- vantage is that it does not operate in calm weather ; but there are only a very few days when there is not sufficient wind to cause more or less air to pa.ss through it. Forcing Vegetables, lihuharh. Lift some stools and pack them into square boxes or tubs, take to a con\'enient place and place round them some fermenting manure, and keep it dark. A spacious stoke-hole is a good place to force it and to dispense with manure. If this position should be adopted, care must be taken that the stooLsdo not get dry, which they are liable to do in such a dry atmosphere. Leaves will answer the same purpose as fermented manure. After the stools have finished scr\-ice in either of the before-men- tioned places, they may be taken out of the receptacles and returned to their old quarters outside and covered with ashes. .SVa/fa7t', too, is simple to force, and it is surpiising to me it is not more extensively grown than is really the case. All that is required is to lift some plants, pack in boxes or tubs, and place them in a bed of fer- menting leaves ; drive a post into each corner of the box or tub, fl.\ to that some wire netting, about two feet in height, and cover the whole with leaves, or a pit ma.v be dug in the ground, sufficiently large to let in the box and some leaves to pack around them. Mushroomft, If a b<)x is filled with ordinary stable manure, over that some soil, spawn it, and make firm in the usual way, it can either he jjlaced in the stokehole or outhouse, and will do remarkably well ; also, a succession can be kept up almost the year rouud by this treatment. AsiMiayus can also be suc- cessfully forced by filling a box with leaves, on which place some stable litter, and pack the roots upon this and cover with soil. Pe(u^, if sown in long naiTow bo.xes, the same width as the drills generally are outside, will be ready to put out- side before the ones sown in the drills, if the spring is fa\orable. If not. place the boxes out- side against a sheltered wall, and allow them to develop themselves in that position, where they will come in nuich earlier. The market gardener will find thLs method profitable with very little trouble.— Ixindon Hortic\iltural Times. Preventing Fire-fang. To prevent manure from flre-fangiug make holes in the heap and pour cold water in them. Manure must heat if it decomposes, and water will often hasten the process, but when it becomes so heated as to fire- fang the result will be a loss. Frequent turning over of the heap, which exposes it to the air, cools it. A pint of sulphuric acid in a pail of water sprinkled through the mass with some suitable vessel will decompose it and also prevent loss.— Practical Farmer. Fertilizers for Strawberries. The StrawbeiTy plants will Ix'gin to grow as soon as the frost shall be out of the ground, and now is an excellent time to fertilize them. A mi.xture of wood ashes and superphosphate is a special fertilizer for Strawberries. Hen manure in a fine condition ma>' also be used, and should be scattered over the plants in time to be washed down by the rains. —Philadelphia Hecord. Pruning New or Old Wood. The oldest wood should be taken off in preference t(> that which is newer. If a branch contains a strong, vigorous shoot, leave it and thin imt to allow space for the future. New wood always beai-s the best fruit. When a Peach tree has ceased to bear, the cutting off of the old wood, or that which is partially dead, will give it nc>w life and \igor. It will again begin to bear, and last much longer, pro- vided the trunk is in good condition. The Grape \ ines that have grown to be as thick as a man's arm, sometimes begin to fail. Allow a young cane to begin at the root, train it as you would like to have it, and after it begins to bear cut away all the old vine and you will have a fresh, youthful vine that will begin to bear large quan- tities of Grapes, and you will thus have the ad- vantage of new wood with plent.v of roots as feeders. Encourage the growth of new wood. Many trees and vines fail because twigs and young wood are cut olT, learing the old, when the projier course should be to allow the new to grow and in time be substituted for the old.— Farm. Field and Fireside. Purifying Manure. We object to putting ma- nure on our soil without being purified, and this is \ery important in all cases. Lime must ni'\er be used in doing it. Salt and soot are the two best purifiers, and' a quantity of one or both should \are for them a soil composed of one part old cow manure, two parts good loam and one part ol leaf niolil, with a little sand thrown in; stirall thoroughly together, and some morning you will see your Pansies laughing at you as their roots penetrate far down into this rich bed. However, any moderately rich and thoroughly dug-over garden soil is quite good enough for you to become an expert in Pansy culture. Sele. snaked in milk, usin^'' one-half of each. This to In- driven iu a rather moist condition, with no drink whatever, for four weeks.— Rural New-Yorker. Early Grass. Raisers of early chickens do well to remember that chicks must have grass food wheu 12 to 1.5 days old. If chicks are hatched before grass comes, then it must be raised arti- ficially. A good plan is to sow oats in boxes in the kitchen window or greenhouse. Scaly Leg. This is caused by a minute inseet which Iturrows under the scales on thr slmnks of fowls, causing them to enlarge. This mav l)e eured by dipping the shanks of those affected into crude pretroleum, or a mixture of lard and kerosene may be thoroughly rubbed into the scales. Repeat the treatment in ten days, aud the cure will be completed.— Practical Farmer. Eggs for Setting. These should not be kept longer than two weeks after laying. If unmo- lested a fowl will lay a nest of eggs, and com- mence setting when the stalest eggs are (jiilj- about a iortnight or three weeks old. Nature mu>" generally be taken as a guide in such things; but the eggs kept for setting should be properly stored, and kept upright, or turned frequently. — English Farm and Home. Ducks; the Gardener's Fowl. It Is remarkable how rapidly duck-raising has grown to be an ex- tensive business. It has been found that JJucks are a greater delicacy and far ahead of chickens as broilers. They command as high, if not a higher price, in the mark<^*t than chickens. They can be iialfniiy nmnth Htandngond chance of being anstrerpd in the ve.rt paper Not more than three qiiettt ions should he sent at nne timr lnqnirfen ap- pearing without name bebmg in the name next following. ReplifH tn Intjuirien are eamextlu requested from our readfra. hi answering such give the number, your localitii and name, the latter not fnr publication, unle»a you desire, if'rite only on one side of the ptiper. Till. Golden- leaved Syringa. Can you tell me about this hardy shruli aud where It run lie bought? 613. China Tree. What treatment must the so- called China Tree have, and Is It hardv hi the North "» I think it is a Te.vas tree. -Mies. E. A. B.. JCrie Co., N. Y. iiI3. Peach Culture- Varying Results. WLshlng to plant imt Peach trees. I am )iuzzled a.s to how to pro- ceed, owhiK Ui my past experience on a smaller scale. ConceruiUK this I will say that of tt-n Peach trees planted in IK.'^'J. six on the hrnw of a south, rn sumiv slope, four at the l.as.-nf the slope, ail on land thai had formerly been a truck Kardcu. and all l.-Ivch sine- phnit ing the same culture, fertilizers, etc.. the furnni' have giown perfectly, beeu free of liorers. hut have Iwrnc no fruit; the other four have been continuously treated for borers, the growth has been Kood aud the crop im- mense. What conclusion am I to draw '/—Subscriber. 6U. Wasps and Bees. What means cau I employ to save my early fruit from these. 615. Pruning the Peach. Must I cut away one-half of all the first year's growth no matter what length it may be, and when must thia be done; iu other words what time iu the spring? 616. Varieties of Peach. Please give names of suit- * able varieties to plant, time of ripening, etc.- T. R. W. 617. Grafting Several Sorts on the Same Tree. Having but limited space In my garden I would like to increase the number of varieties of Pears and Apples in this way. Trees are not yet in bearing. Would this be satisfactory In the long run?— Scburban. 618. Achimene Culture. Please give particulars In regard to culture <>t Achimenes; soil, location, time to start bull)s, etc.— S. A. S., Independence, Mo. 619. Growing Early Tomatoes. I wi-iih someone would give us a praetleal method of growing early To- matoes.—A. M. N.. (iranviUc, Ohio. 62e. Heating Small Fit. My pit is eight feet by twelve feet, and six feet high in center, with walk 22 Inches wide, excavated between solid walls of soil, which serve as benches. Have tried lami>s. but they are apt to get too high, and once or twice I have founh the place nearly black with lamp fumes. Sometimes too from lack of Oxygen tlie lamps burn poorly. What can you recommend?— T. H. J.. Natick; 3Iass. 621. Sprouts for Stocks. Will Pear sprouts do to bud or graft on? 622. Pears on Light Soil. I have a flue piece of very tine sand loam almost like molding sand. Will Pears do. or what kind would be the best? Peaches are very uncertain iu our cliniatt?. 623. How Many Seedlings. How many plants will 4l> pounds of Peach pits produce?~J. H., Oregon. 624. Dog Nuisance. In this neighborhood dogs cause great annoyance and damage In racing over mv gardens. What can I do to protect myself? 625. Fertilizer for Potatoes. Will commercial fer- tilizers injure the Potato If dropped upon the seed ? fi26. Wire for Pea Trellis. Do you consider No. au wire heavy enough to train Peas upon.— A. R. Smith. 627. Grape Queries, (a) Of Ives and Champion which turns black .so as to be marketable first, and about how many days is the leader iu advance of the Concord? (l>) Which of the three varieties named Is the hardiest and most jtroductive? (<•) About how much earlier are Grapes tliat are K'rown on a south hill side than tliose on level ground?— H. B. Cuyahoga Co.,Ohio. 62S. Pine Spines and Strawberries. Are Fine spines, or straw as we call tliem here. Injurious as a mulch to strawljerrles to he jmt on in the fall and left until fruiting. My own experience has seemed to he variable, and I would like to hear fiom others.— SuB- SCRIBKU, Benton, Arkansas. 621*. Cloth Cover for Cabbaye Plant Raising. I In- tend to build a greenhouse for raising Cabbage, using oiled cloth for a ct)ver If It will auswer. How prepare the cloth, what quality Is best ?— .T. (J. K.. Buvkncrs, Ky. 6:?0. Amaryllis from Seed. How long will it take the plants to bloom from seed. Should they he kept growing all the time?— M. E. (i., Ta)S Qntos, C'nl. 631. Raspberries for Fertilizing. Will Turner or Mar)ji>r(» auswer to set In alternate rows foi* fertilizing Crimson Beauty? If so. which sort is best, aud in what proi)ortiou to he used? 6;?2. Curculio. When to Poison. In spraying Plums. Apples and Peaches, should It Ije done as soon as the blossoms tiegin U> fall, or when? (>ii. Insect Poison Proportions. Please give the proper pri)p<}rtlniis of London Purple and water to use. Last \ car 1 got In too much purple and klllclied at any time after the manure is put on, and before the crop is planted. Mix with the soil as thor- oughly as possible, or use as a top dressing on the growing.crops, applying it at the first hoeing. .564. Works on Plant Culture. Long's Home Florist is an exceilent treatise for the amateur. Price, $1 .25. To the professional cultivator, Hen- dereon's Practical Floriculture, price, $1.50; and Henderson's Hand Book of Plants, price, $3.00; will inijiart a great deal of \-ahiable information. The.^*' linolvs luiiy Ik/ procured through the Pop- ular (iARDENING PUBLISHING CO.— C. E. P. 577. Bouvardias after Flowering. Bouvardias are hot-house i)lants, and where flowers are want- ed they must be given a light, sumiy situation, and an average night temperature of 60 degrees, and the greatest care must be taken to keep them perfectly free from aU insect pests. After they cease flowering, remove to a cooler atmosphere, and keep dry at the roots for a month or six weeks, when the.v can be started into growth again. When growth commences, shift into larger pots or give liquid manure twice a week. Care should be taken not to \vater the plants too much at first. The crop of flowers thus obtained will be far inferior to the first, and man.v persons con- sider it not worth the time and trouble necessary to obtain it. After growth has well commenced, the plants will require a similiar treatment Ut that advised for the earl.v crop of bloom.— C. E. P. 590. Lice on Fruit Trees. I presume that you refer to the Bark Louse, which is a scale-like in- sect of a dull white color and about a tenth of an inch in length, which often appears on the stems of the trees in such numbers as to stunt their growth and even utterly destroy them. These insects may be destroyed by dissolving a pound of potash in a gaUon of water and apply- ing it with a paint brush to the affected parts at any time before the tree starts into growth. One, or at the most, two applications will destroy them.— C. E. P. 584. Amaryllis from Seed. Amaryllis seed should be sown, as soon as gathered, in a well drained pot or pan filled with light, tui-f.y loam. Sow thinly, cover slightly and place in a warm place as close to the glass as possible. As soon as all are up and about two inches in height, pot off into two-inch pots and from this time on shift as often as necessary, as by so dfiing the bulbs will attain a flowering size in some twelve or fifteen months. Of course the plants should be kept in a warm, moist situation as close to the glass as possible at all times during their season of growth. They must be given porous or soft-baked pots, well drained; it the pots arc one-third filled with drainage it is none too much.— C. E. P. 601. Fertilizer for Raspberry. Apply the Blood and Bone Fertilizer at the rate of two hundred pounds to the acre; spread it among the plants and work it in as thoroughly as possible, by means of a fork or hoe. A preferable way would have been to have given the plants a good dressing of well decayed stable or barn-yard manure last fall, and to have worked it in as thoroughly as possible this spring.— C. E. P. 596. Plants for Small Conservatory. There are but a ver.v few plants that will bloom in as low a temperature as Geraniums. You may suc- ceed with Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Camellias and Azaleas in variety. Cyclamen Persicura, and Oxalis. A few well grown plants of the .lerusa- lem Cherry would be very ornamental in such a place. I would adrise the free use of ornamental foliage plants, such as Anthericum vnttatum variegatum. Colletia bictoniensis, Pittosporum tobira variegata, Aucuba Japonica Maas, and A. Japonica foemina, Enonyraus Japonica aureus and E. Japonica argenteus, Osmanthus illicifolius aureus, and argenteus, Eleagnus ])ungens variegatus. Aspidistra lurida variegata, Olea fragrans and others. A few Palms could also be grown, such as Corypha Australis, Sea- forthia elegans, Chamerops fortunii, Humilis and excelsa, Sabal adasoni and Palmetto, Cycas revoltu. A few nice specimens of Deutzia graci- lis, Porsythia viridissima, and Spireas of sorts could be' taken up and potted in the fall, and wotild here give satisfactory results.— C.E.P. 602. Goal Tar for Peach Trees. I would not advise any cme to apply coal tar to Peach trees for any purpose.— C. E. P. 603. Plums in Sod. Plums will not thrive when planted in sod, and if you do not intend to cultivate them properly from the start, I would advise you not to plant them.— C. E. P. .585. Fertilizer for House Plants. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of the best Peruvian guano in four gallons of water. Or soak some horse droppings or chicken manure in water until a clear, dark Inown liquid is formed, or put four ounces of soot in a gallon of water, stir up briskly and apply. A thorough watering with any of the abo\e once a week will besufticient.— C. E. P. 604. Shropshire Damson Plum. This variety isfar su|)eriortothe01d Blue, and will succeed ccjually as well. If the Old Blue pays, the Shrop- shire will pay far better.— C. E. P. .595. Pruning an Arbor Vitse Hedge. The only ob.iection to yoiu- reducing the height of your heilgc, as \-ou propo.se, will be that it will leave the center ojieu, as the old branches that remain Avill not break and flU it up, as long as there are bring and growing branches below.— C. E. P. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 135 m\. Mortgages and Fruit Cultnre, lu my first experience in selling plants it was my custom to offer credit to such parties as I considered good, with the imderstanding and expectation that money could be realized from the plants tf> pay such liills in a year or two, but I think that in a large ma.iority ol such cases it would have been better int both sides to have done less busi- ness ami umili- terms cash, and my advice is not to run in dclit to any extent for fruit trees or plants, unless you thoroughly understand the business ami thi? markets you expect to supply, and above all, unless j'ou have more than nrduiary business talents.— W. F. B. !m. Propagating Hydrangea panicnlata. Sometimes green wood cuttings root readily in summer if inserted in a box or pot of sand and kept quite wet and wholly in the shade. In grow- ing these, I generally partly till the box with fine rich soil, into which the roots can k"(» when the>' get through the sand. This plan, h(»wevcr, some- times fails from too hot weather interveuintf before roots are formed. Layering is quite sure under favorable circumstances. Make the earth around your plant very rich and fine, and as soon as the young growth is a few inches long bend down and cover all but the ends of the shoots, pegging down if necessary, and all the young shoots will root. Early in the following spring these should be taken off and planted in nursery rows, in fine rich soil and the next season they will make nice plants. — W. F. Bassett. •552. Wintering Fansies Pansies require a great deal of fresh air, and for this reason are not usually satisfactorj- as greenhouse or room plants. A good cold frame, sunk a little so as to be somewhat in the nature of a pit, the side pro- tected by banking with earth or pine brush, covered with sash and some proWsion for cover- ing in very cold weather and nights, is the best place for them in this climate. Sow the seed early in August and transfer to the frames in September, making the soil very rich. Open the sash in all sunny days enough to ventilate freely, closing early in the afternoon, and covering with mats or shutters whenever it is cold enough to freeze the ground when not protected, and they >vlll often bloom all winter.— W. F. B. .547. Arbor Vitse Hedges. I find two feet the most satisfactory distance for hedge plants, and this should be adhered to without regard to size when set, although if different sizes are used it is best to plant those similar in size next ("at--h other. There is, as r. E. P. sa.vs, no particular diflit-ulty in transplanting, yet a little carclrssmss is quite likely to cause a failure. Everffrcen roots sutter much woi'se than other trees it allowed to dry, and it is therefore \ery essential that the roots be kept wet, and covered from sun and wind while planting, and also that the earth should be well packed aroimd them by tramping quite hard after enough earth is thrown on to prevent , bruising. When Hemlock succeeds it make a very much finer hedge than Arbor A'ita'. Prune before growth commences in spring, sloping the sides so as to narrow it about two or three inches to every foot in height, making a horizontal cut of one to two feet wide at top. It is best not to allow more than an inch per year increase in height after the hedge gets started.— W. F. B. .5.S2. Keeping Hibiscus Dwarfed. I see no objection to old plants, as the flowers are all pro- duced on the wood of the present season's growth and one or two buds is enough to leave of the pre\ious year's wood, and some branches may be cut wholly away if required. Whenever a new tub or pot is needed, or the soil gets too poor, it may be shaken out, (while dormant), and, if de- sirable, root pruned enough to go back in the same pot, using fresh, rich soil, and it will be as good as new again.— W. F. Bassett. .5H3. Variegated Umbrella Tree, f'yperus alternifolius variegata is the botanical name of the plant you i*ef er to, and it requires a treat- ment similar in all respects to that given the plain leaved variety, but as it is not so strong or rapid a growing jilunt it should not be overpotted. It also should be given a porous or soft-baked pot and this should be filled at least one-third with drainage. Give a light, sunny situation and an a\erage temperature of from 40° to M", with water as required, and there will be no difficulty in growing the plant.— C E. P. 582 Keeping the Hibiscus Dwarfed. About the first of May you can turn the plants out of theii- tubs, and after carefull.v reducing about one-half of their earth and roots, replace in the tubs, giving them good drainage and perfectly fresh compost. At the same time the tf>ps of the plants must be cut back in proportion to the amount of roots removed. Water must be care- fully given until growth commences. It is not advisable to place the plants in smaller pots or tubs. This operation can be repeated for any number of times, but in the case of such rapid growing plants as the Hibiscus it is best to have a young stock coming on to replace the older ones after they have had their roots reduced twice. Oleanders, to which you refer, and some other species, will stand this treatment far better than the Hibiscus, and some other plants of rai>i" adapted to forward- infr in this manner. If for home use, where qual- ity instead of quantity is the desideratum, then try the Emerald Gem or Miller's Cream, which are A No. 1 in this respect, but tof) small for market (generally. It for the latter purpose, try such sorts as Burpee's Champion Market, and the New Early Hackensack for green fleshed. Perfection or Improved Orange Chi'istiana. for yellow fleshed. The seeds are sown about April 1st in a greenhouse or hot-bed. si.\ or eight in a five-inch flower-pot. sufhricnt for one hill, afterwards thinning to three or fom* of the strongest. These are al- lowed to grow in this manner till such time as the weather will admit of their lieing set in the open ground, which is done as follows: After thoroughly pre- paring the land, mark the location for each hill, take one of your jars, invert it, and gentl.y tap the edge, when the con- tents will come out intact without the least in.iury to the working roots, the essential point In the operation, and can then be planted in the hill, and will grow without auy apparent check. This plan will insure Melons considerably earlier than from seed sown iu the open ground, but if the matunty of the crop at the earliest moment is the ilesired point, it will pay to stlU further protect each hill by a box or frame covered vnth water-i)roof filjer cloth set over the same. Cucumbers may also be forwarded in the same manner, wntn generall.v a considerable profit.— G. H. Mahan. ais. Fertilizer for Strawberry. Not knowing the size of jour bed, I am unable to say why the guano did not help it. I infer from your quer.v, however, that tJie gi'ound was improjierl.v pre- pared before planting, and if so, would advise you to plant a new bed this spring, and to destroy the old one as soon as the crop is gathered. In pre- paring for a new bed, apjjly an abundant supply of good, well rotted stable manure, and work it in as deeit and as thoroughly as possible, remem- bering that to ensure a satisfactory crop the ground caiuiot be too well prepared or made too rich and deep. — C. E. P. 574. Fruit for Small Plat. Bartlett, Duchess d' Angouleme, (on Quince), Beurre d' Anjou, and Lawrence Pears. DuohessofOldenburgh, Peck's Pleasant, and Baldwin Apples. Columbia, Duan's Purple and Washington Plums.— C. E. P. 58S. Storing Cabbage. When it is deemed advis- able to seciu-e the crop, pull up on a dry day and place the heads iu a downward position so as to drain all moisture from them, then place in pits, roots inward, as close together as possible, and gradually cover with earth to the depth of eight or ten inches. One or two hundred heads can be placed In each pit. A covering of coarse litter placed on one si.Ie of tnr pit will ren- der access much easier if apjilied as sonn as the ground commences to freeze. These pits shituia l>e r.irini-ii and finished precisely as those used for storing Turnips, Oarrots, etc.— C. E. P. W3. Hibiscus Buds Dropping. I am not acquainted with Hibiscus rubra. I suppose you refer to H. rosea sinensis, anil if so would say that the plant is not sen- sitive about being touched while in bud, except to the extent of the expanded flowers being ill-shaped In the event of the ijutls being liruised or severely injured. No insects or worms are injuring the buds, and you may altrilmte the dropping of the buds to one or Tuore of tlie following causes: 'the plants may tie j,o-o\ving in tint low a temperature. The pot or tub may Ije im- properly drained, and in con.sequence of this the roots may have l>ecome iujuied bv being kept too wet. Or iu the event of the pot or tub being well filled with roots, the plant may not have been thoroUKlilv watered ' at times. To grow and flower tlus nibiscus sue.ess- fully liuriug the winter season it sliould be ^;i\en a light, sunny situation, and an average temijcrature of from 56 to fit) degrees. Water tlioroughlv whenever necessary, and if the pot or tub is well flllecl with roots give liquid niaimre once a week. A compost composed of one-third well decayed manure and two-ttilrds turfy loam Is the most suitable, and the tub or pot must he well drained. Re-pot the plant In May, or be- warm, on account of liability to rot. For the very ear- liest sowings I prefer Thorburns' Early Market, or Rural New Yorker. The Alaska is recommended as a very early blue Pea of good quality, very productive. I cannot speak for It from experience.— C. E. P. The Fire Hot-bed at the Michigan Agricultural College. C. S. CRANDALL, AGRICULTCR.\L COI.LEOE P. O., MICH. Our fire hot-bed was not alone a hot-bed, but combined a small forcing house where we could work under the glass, and a hot brick, and covered with a shingle roof. The furnace was built of brick. An arched top iron frame carrying doors tii fire bo-x and ash pit formed the front, and was set even with the inner face of the tool room wall, and held in place by rods built into the furnace wall. The fire box, lined with fire brick, was thirty inches long, fifteen inches wide, and eighteen inches liigh in the center The ash-pit. eight inches deep below the grates had same width and length as fire FlG.1 LENGTHWISE SECTIONAL VIEW'OF FIRE HOT-BED. room twelve feet square. Figure 1 shows depth of excavation and position of furnace. The hot-bed, six feet by sixty feet, was ex- cavated full width, one foot deep at the chimney end and three feet at the other, and was fitted with frame same as for an ordin- ary bed. Then narrowing the trench to two and one-half feet it was continued twelve feet to the furnace, where it was lowered to six feet from the surface, and continued on this level for furnace bottom and tool room floor. Seen from above the excavation would appear as in Figure 2. The dotted line indicates the outline of forcing house portion. This was 11 feet wide. The outer walls consisted of pieces of "2x4 inch scantling set into the gi'ound, boarded on both sides, and the top capped with 2xti inch scantling, on which rested the rafters and sasli. These walls pro.iected above ground about eighteen inches, and were banked to the top on the outside with earth. Upright pieces of scantling placed against the sides of the trench served as supports for the rafters. Five sash were used on each side. The ad.ioining tool room wall formed one end. the other was double boarded down to the hot-bed frame, with which it was connected. The trench was boarded up as high as tlie ground level, and the bottom floored over a few inches above the flue, tlius forming a passage between the beds. The beds were covered with boards, and on these we placed our seed and plant boxes. In the hot-bed frame the floor made of inch boards was laid level, being close down to the flue near the chimney end and nearly two feet above it at the other end. The sides were extended above the floor fourteen inches in front and eighteen inches at the back, giving slope sufficient to carry water off the sash. At intervals of six feet and alternating from side to side, spaces were left between tlie floor and the sides for the passage of warm air to the plant space above. Tool Room 12 X 12 FT. it- HoT Bed 6x60 ft. \^_j FlG.2 GROUND PLAN OF fore l)Iaeiug if outside for the summer. Do not give it too large a pot or tub. and never shift or re-pot It In the winter or fall month.s.— C. E. P. i>.>4. Seed Growing, Full particulars as to how seeds are grown will be found In Brill's Farm Oardcnlng and Seed Growing, which can be procured from the office of PoiTLAR Oardesisg. PrIce, one dollar. 16) Cauli- flower .seed is Imported from Eiu-ope. It requires a cool, moist climate, and even under the most favor- al)lc conditions seeds perfect very siiarliiglv : this Is why II is s.i . x]M-iislve. (el Alpha Is tin. i-arircst |n-:i of line iiii;dit\ wiili which I am acnuiiiiued. It yields well and Is of good size. It Is a wrinkled iiiarroVv and shinild not l)e .sown until the ground has Itecome FIRE HOT-BED. On a portion of this floor earth to the depth of eight inches was placed, and some seeds sown here, but nearly all our plants were started in the forcing house in boxes, and as it became crowded the boxes were trans- ferred to the hot-bed, placing the tender sorts at the end nearest the furnace; but r:ibbage plants, etc., near the chimney. The tool room, used also for storage of coal and a ground work room was walled with box. We used a single flue of six inch sewer pipe running straight from furnace to chimney. This was supported on brick four inches from bottom of trench, and the joints were made tight with fireclay and mortar. On starting this hot^bed we found a diffi- culty in the excessive radiation from the flue .loints nearest the furnace. This was obviated by encasing the first twelve feet in an outer brick flue which was allowed to open into the air chamber under the hot-bed. The drj-ness of heat obtained by this method of heating renders necessary the mainte- nance of pans of water over the furnace and at intervals along the flue. The experience of the year proved so clearly Ihe utility and convenience of our forcing house that we re- moved the hot-bed frame and converted the whole length into forcing liouse, excavating full width of eleven feet and running two flues, one under each bench. Plants can be successfully grown in Are hot-beds, and in many cases at less expense than in manure heated beds, the fuel cost- ing less than manure. For a forcing house such as I have spfiken of. the same sash, the same furnace and flues reiiuired for a hot- bed can be used. The only difference is in the additional lumber necessary for the frame, and the e.xtra labor of construction. 80 I would suggest to anyone contemplating a fire hot-bed that they carefully calculate the cost of both hot-bed tind forcing house, and then do not let a reasonable difference in cost prevent you from choosing to build the forcing house. Very many cheap houses of this character, varying somewhat in con- struction according to the taste and means of the owner, are being built every year. Their utility has been ilemonst rated, and their cost is within the means of gardeners who now depend entirely upon hot-beds. "Roadside Trees in Beloiu.m. From the official report of the head officer having charge of woods and rivers in Belgium, it appeai-s that the total length of highways in that countr.v amounts to 4,2"™" miles, of which there are al- ready planted more than one-half, or 2,417 miles. The present value of the trees is now four times as much as their original cost, or have a raone.v value of more than two million dollars. Among the trees thus planted, Elms are in the large.st numbers, then Oaks, next Poplars, and in di- miutshing numbers are Ash, Beech, Maples, Norway Spruce and Larch. Fruit trees are in much smaller numbers. Tricks IN ALL Trades. i.The Cincinnati Com- mercial Gazette exposes a neat scheme practised to stretch out the crop of " Florida '' Oranges. It says: "The choicest Orange has a dark tinge upon its rind. But the ingenious Dago, being well aware of this fact, artfully arranges that aU of his Oranges are Floridians, presenting the darkskinned appearance. And after the Florida (Grange passes away there takes its place as the choicest feature of the market the little blood-red Orange, sweet and juicy. These the artists get by inserting ;in the neck of a white Orange a tin.v glass s.vringe filled witli sweetened analine dye." POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. ''ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART; DO THOU BUT THiiOT."— MiLTOB. Vol. III. .A.:F'ieiL, 1888 No. 7. Springtime Is here ! Stout March, with his bluster. Has well eleart'tl the way For sweet, tearful April And suuuy-facetl May. old Winter's Krlm forces unwilliuKly retreat. The lonp prisoned streams their deliverer Kreet, The sun rises early, the squirrels dodge out. The brave pussy-willows take courage and sprout ! From Winter's cold heart Nature wakes with a start- Fair springtime, rare springtime, blithe springtime is here ! —Qood Cheer. BiTLB Beds. The beds of spring-fiowering: bulbs shoiihi have their surface stirred ^vith a I'uko once or twice before the time of bloom. Advance on the Weeds. Cultivation is easier done before a crop is planted than after, and labor spent in fitting the soil in the best possible manner before the crop is planted is so much done towards its cultivation. Herein lies one of the advantages of small areas of crops: more time can be spent in fitting the soil before planting. PnoTECTiON Against Hail. Something- less than a year ago the Florists' Hail Association was established. It has been in practical operation most of the time since, and during last year paid a number of claims for losses. It is desired by the directors that all who feel an interest in this protective work will co-operate with the as.socia- tion by joining it without delay. A first step should be to procure the constitution and by-laws with application blanks. These, together with all necessary information, can be had by address- ing Secretary .Tohn G. Esler, Saddle Ki\cr, N. J. Arbor Day. The interest in the Arbor Day and School Yard Improvement movements is so rapidly on the increase that we are sure the special attention given to these subjects in the present i-ssue will be widely appreciated. The.se matters are of such vast importance to the well- fare of our country, and the season of planting is so brief, that we feel to urge the utmost promptness, vigor, and, need we say also, miself- ishness in the carrying out of such impro\'ements. Every friend of trees should be ready to give, not only one day of the year to the setting of forest and ornamental trees and shrubs, but what may often help even more, be prepared to pay out a little money for the common good. Cheaper Postaqe foe Seeds, etc. Frac- tional Currency. At this writing the prospects of a reduction in the postage on seeds, plants, bulbs and scions, to one cent for each four ounces (four cents a pound) look very favorable. The Senate postal committee has reported favor- ably on .such a bill, and while a majority of the House committee favors fixing the rate at one cent for each two ounces, a strong minority con- curs with the Senate committee in favor of a lower rate. An added argument in the same line is furnished by the postal treaty with Canada, in effect March 1, by which seeds and plants can be mailed from there to any part of this country at a four cents per pound rate, while we have to pay 111 cents. The dut.v on seeds, plants, etc., is small (a i)ending hill repeals it) and if we are to compete with Canada, we must at least have as low postage. The bill for the issue of Fractional Currency in ^.'j, 1.5 and In cent denominations of silver certificates pjissed the House on March 1!*, by the extraordinary majority of 177 .yeas to (i7 nays. With these denominations, any combina- tion on five can be made, so that they cover the necessity of fractional currency for use in the mails. Rut neither of these important meas- ures has yet fully become a law, hence we again urge ever.v one of our readei"S to write to their Kepresentatives and Senators, asking them to do all in then' power for securing the passage of these bills. Horticultural Notes by Samuel Miller, Montgomery Co., Missouri. Eauly Melons. To have this delicious fruit at least two weeks earlier than by out- door planting, start on sods six inches scjuare and three inches thick. Cut the sods of exact size and put them in a box five inches deep, sticking a little peg in the middle of each sod, then cover half an inch with rich, mellow ground; stick the seeds around this peg an inch from it. four or live to each. Then cover an inch with good soil, pack down tight and place the box in the hot-l)ed as early as practicable. When the plants are up and starting the third leaf fill up to within an inch of the leaves. By the time that the grotmd and weather is fit to plant in the field these ■will be ready to run. Carry the box to the field where to be planted, cut down with a thin sharp knife between the rows, and lift the plants out carefully and set in the hill, leveling up and pressing the ground firmly around them. Do this in the evening and the plants will hardly feel the move. Be sure, however, to temper the plants to the sun, so that they can stand the full ray.s for several days before taking them out. WTien they have well started pull up all but the two best plants. Of course the land to receive them must be rich and in good mellow condition. Plums and Nuts Without Planting. I have been clearing land lately upon which there are handsome Plum and Hickory trees. These are left standing for the purpose of grafting— the Plums with such varieties as do well; and the Hickory with choice Hickory nuts and Pecans. The latter we now know will grow on Hickory. Have now two grafts grown on Hickory of Niis- baum's Hybrid Pecan, a peculiar, and, in my opinion, a very valuable nut. In a few years these will bear when grafted on young Hickory, which will beat planting the nuts or yoimg trees. I would advise those who are clearing woodland upfin which there are thi'if ty young Hickories, to let them stand for the purpose of grafting Pecan or good varieties of Shellbark upon, which will in a few years be as valuable as any other kind of orchard. Multiplying Potatoes. When these new brag varieties come out, for which we pay from .50 cents to .?1 per pound, it is an object to make the most of them. To do this treat them same as we do Sweet Potatoes, taking off the sprouts when sLx inches high. The first Early Rose Potatoes I ever got were seven medium sized tubers, from which I took the sprouts, then cut the.se up and planted each piece that had an eye in it. The result w a.s just three btishels of splendid Potatoes. In taking off the sprouts be care- ful not to disturb the Potato's germ. Heading Bai k Peach Tijees. A private correspondent tells me that in heading back Peach trees to the bud, that there wa.s a ma- terial difference between those cut back when the grovnul was frozen and those done when the frost was out; the latter always making a better growth. And then a.sks whether the pruning of Grape-vines when the ground is frozen may not have an in- jurious eft'ect. I think not, unless the wood of the vine is frozen at the time, as the cut- ting is too far from the ground to have any effect. The Peach buds are usually inserted but a few inches from the ground, which if frozen must hold the tree in nearly the same condition, besides if the trees are headed back so early the stock dries back so as to dimini.sh the vigor of the buds. I never head back to l)uds when the ground is frozen, but have often pruned vines when so, but on mild days when the wood upon the vines was thawed out I cut them closer. fiii.\i"E Grafting. As regular as the sea- son comes around I am asked to describe the mode. By the time this gets before our readers some who are in a hurry may have already done the work. After many years of experience, doing the work at all times from February, when the frost was out of the ground, until the vines have made shoots a foot long, with varied success, I have come to the conclusion that the best time is when the vines are started to grow, the grafts being kept in a cool shady place so that they were a little behind the stock in starting. To keep them entirely dormant in an ice house, as some recommend, is wrong. I have had the buds on the grafts swollen ready to burst when inserted that started to grow in a week after. Clear the ground away from the root three or four inches deep, saw off at a smooth place at the bottom. If no smooth place can be found, saw into the stump instead of splitting as usual. A thick, wide-set saw I prefer to the knife, even in a straight stump. Shave your graft to fit the cut with a shoulder, tie if the stock is less than an inch in diameter, then fill in the earth carefully, press firmly, but do not move graft. Hill up to the upper bud, stick a peg one inch from each graft on one side, always on the same, so you can tell exactly where the graft is. Then cover the eye over with a handful of sawdust; throw a little mulch on and leave it until the grafts begin to grow. I use two-eyed grafts, unless the wood is long-jointed and thick, when one eye will answer. When the grafts begin to grow the suckers must be kept off, or they will keep the grafts from growing. As soon as the graft begins to grow it must be tied up to a stake to keep the wind from blowing it down. In this way I nearly always get fruit a little sooner than when I buy a small vine. Have now strong vines of Empire State that were set in spring of 1886; bore fruit last year, while three vines planted the year before that cost me si.\ dollars have not borne a bunch of fruit yet, and not much show of doing it the coming season. I cannot see the policy of digging worthle.ss vines up and planting others in their place. Graft them with something better. fiRAFTiNG WAX. How to make this is often asked, and while there are many re- ceipts given, the one that I like best after forty years of experience is made as follows: Use 1 pint Lin.seed Oil, 4 lbs. resin, 1 lb. bees- wax. Melt all over a slow fire; stir well and jiour on water, when cool enough to work grease the hands well and work it like shoe- maker's wax or taffy. Then roll balls of convenient size for putting into the vessel used when grafting. It should be heated over a moderate fire and put on the grafts thin, but not too hot. This wa.\ will not crack in cold weather, nor run, even if the weather gets up to 100' in the shade. 138 POPULAR GARDENING. April, Ornamentation about Country School Houses. BY L. H. BAILEY. No one can doubt the need of ornament about country school houses. The only moot i)oints are those of the method.s and principles to be emi)loyed. It is a compara- tively easy matter to render a. school ground fascinating if the operator has the chance of selecting the .site and placing the buildings. These privileges are rare, hovrever, and it Is the purpose of the present contribution to suggest methods of making old grounds attractive. The sug- gestions are made solely for the country school, the "dis- trict school." These are of all school grounds the most diflticult to ornament satisfac- torily from the facts that there is apt to be little or no co-operation in the labor of ornamentation among the residents of the district; that the utmost economy must be practiced, and that the ground are usually very small and lacking in natural attractions. Whatever adornment is at- tempted must be of the sim- plest and most permanent character to find sympathy at the hands of patrons. The following suggestions, there- fore, may possess value in this connection: 1. Grade ns littti: ns possible. not only an expensive and operation quick in reaching maturity, easy of trans- portation, eminently adapted for screens, and, by their size, especially suitable for small grounds. It plantings appear to be unsatisfactory after a few years, the shrubs can be readily transferred to other parts of the grounds. They are always manageable. 7. Prepare the ground thorrnuihly before any plant imj is done. In setting groups of shrubs it is desirable that the ground should be turned the fall before. If the soil is light FIG. Grading is burdensome but in the hands of an unskilled operator is usitally productive of harm by destroying the pleasing natural undulations of the surface. Beyond filling up mud holes and tempering very abrupt irregularities, grading should usually be di.scouraged. 2. Definite walks and drives should be few, or altogether absent. They are expen- sive if well made and well kept, and if poorly made and poorly kept they are a nuisance. Most country school premises are too small for both walks and drives with definite bor- ders and directions. A carriage entrance, usually more or less indistinct, may swing past the entrance of the house in the larger grounds. Such a drive would be necessary and unobjectionable in Fig. 2. 3. Mrikc no momids, and. insert no orna- ments of an iincomnum character. 4. Use largely of native plants. They are cheap; they are hardy and vigorous, requir- ing no petting. The children should know them, become familiar with them. The list ( if desirable native trees and bushes is a long one. It would be useless to specify the species here, for most people do not know them by name. Select a good variety. Every swamp and thicket can be laid under con- t ribution. Any bush or tree becomes attrac- tive when given a chance. Select plants which are handsome in leaf and habit as well as in flower. A liberal admixture of evergreens is desirable, yet they seldom thrive well about .school grounds. They are too apt to be injured by romping boys. Their tender shoots are also in great demand among the girls for trimming their hair and garments. .5. Flower beds should be few or none un- /(•.S.S the ehildrcn themselves care for them. The reasons are obvious. When the children can be induced to save the seeds and care for the plants, danger from depredation is largely reduced, and the beds can be kept in an attractive condition. A neglected flower bed is much worse than none. During the mid-summer sea-son, broken by a long vacation, the flowers would be neglected! fi. Use manii .'ibl.f so to the planter, for there is a peculiar pleasure in the parentage of trees, whether forest, fruit or ornamental. They compensate a thou- sandfold for all the care they cost. Happy would it be for all our homes and towns, if, on Arbor Day, every parent, and every girl and boy, should plant, or help in plant- ing (if too young to work alone), some \dne or tree to be known by his or her name. One of the educational forces of Arbor Day begins when children are prompted to plant, not only trees, but tree seeds, acorns, Ash, Elm or Maple keys, nuts, drupe-stones or pits, and then year by year to observe the wonderful miracles, which the tree- life they have started is working out before them. What interest and profit, what growth of mind and heart they will gain as they watch the mysterious forces of these living ^^B^S germs; their mai-velous assimilating ""~ power, carrying on such a curious chemistry in their underground laboratoi-y | conjoined with the upper-story apparatus of foliage, secreting acids that dissolve sand and stones, transmuting coarse earth and even filth into living forms of beauty and fra- grance. It is something to drop such a germ in the earth and think ot its possibilities. How lasting a contribution may thus be made to the natural beauty around the home. The trees which children start may be prized with a growing sentiment and become living memorials of happy youthful days. the old wood at the ground in order to force new canes to grow, losing of ccnirse one season's fruit in order to renew the vine. If we begin with this renewal system while the \ines are young, there is seldom trouble in getting canes to grow directly from the ground. Sometimes we may need tt) use a spur at the end of a cane, but it is cvit away the second year and has no time to fill up and clog with resin. The crops from vines managed in this way are always the most satisfactory. I have usually left from three to Ave new canes and cut them when spread at the lower vine. The accompanying engraving represents a sample vine ten years old pruned after my modified Kelly's Island system. It will be An Improved Fan System of Train- ing. The Kelly's Island System Modified. D. S. MARVIN, WATERTOWN, N. Y. Referring to my recent article, " Resin in the Vine," I had occasion to allude to what is known as the " Kelly's Island system " of pruning the Grape. Like a great many other practices in horticultural matters, an observing man often finds out the best way of doing his work before he knows the rea- sons for his practice. This and the modifi- cations of the Kelly's Island system to adapt the work to all varying conditions of soil and climate has been found the best of all our systems, because it avoids the filling up of the channels of the circulatory system with the resin of the sap. Under our conditions what is known as the fan system of pruning is perhaps as good as any, but it is by no means the old fan system, where the main portion of the wood is old wood with a spur of new wood at the end of the canes. Even this, though, is better than the regtilar arm and spur system. In my experience the arm and spur system has done well for a few years and given good results; after this it has utterly failed to give satisfactory crops of fruit; the spurs especially become clogged as they annually lengthen and fill up with the resin of the sap. If continued the spurs get so clogged that the vine is forced to push out canes from .adventitious buds at the base of the spurs. I have then been glad to use these canes and cut away the old spurs to renew the forces of the vine. Then the trouble goes to the amis, and they clog up and fill up so that whenever I could I made use of the canes that push out from adventitious buds at the base of the vine and matle new tops. I have even had to go so far as to cut away IMPROVED RENEWAL FAN SYSTEM OF TRAINING. observed that the right hand cane is two- thirds of it old wood, to be all cut away at the next pruning. The old canes that bore a heavy crop of fruit have been pruned away all but the stump of the right hand cane. Three or more buds at the end of the cane, as the \ine may be strong or weak, are to be left to bear fruit, the others to be rubbed off, except enough to form new canes near the ground to renew next year's bearing canes. If the vine is a very strong one and the spaces wide between the vines, the two out- side canes are to be left longer to fill the spaces and meet the next vine. In this case I have left six or more fruit buds sometimes. It will be seen that the system can be adapted to the conditions. When the vines are to be laid down for winter protection, there is no other system that approaches this for its convenience and economy of labor in the work of laying down in the fall after pruning. There are no old stiff canes to be broken and split in getting them down to the ground. The system, as its name indicates, is one of perpetual yoiith. All the evils of the double arm system, especially the clogging of the cii'culatory ducts, is avoided. The original Kelly's Island system was one long cane or arm, with spurs for next year's canes at the surface of the soil for re- moval, but it was found objectionable be- cause it is always difficult to get the fruit spurs to grow uniform upon long canes, the first and the last canes growing too strong at the expense of the center canes. The tendency may be somewhat counter- acted by bending the cane for a few weeks in the spring so that the center buds are highest, then after they have grown even with the end shoots bringing the cane up to the lower wire, again forming a straight arm. This entails additional care and at- tention at the busiest season of the year, and is inferior to the plan given in the cut. Still, the essential idea is the same in both plans; they each avoid the evils of clogging the circulatory ducts, and the difficulties of handling and manipulating old wood. The roots may wax old, yet they do not become infirm with age, as do canes above ground. European or foreign \ines can be trained upon the arm system better than our own, because they do not contain the resinous substances in their sap that oure do. The Virginia Creeper. E. W. L. " The common Virginia t'reeper has be- come a great favorite in Loudon for cover- ing walls, and is generally preferred to Ivy." The above paragraph I read recently in a newspaper, and I am glad to know that this beautiful American vine is so appreciated in England. The Virginia Creeper (yl /iipc/oj)- s(.s quinqucfoUn), often though erroneously called Woodbine, is a lovely vine, and is so easily grown that every yard or garden should have at least one of them. I have a number of these viues covering a shed, about one hundred and fifty feet long and twenty high, and it is one of (he hand- somest features of my garden. The leaves are a dark glossy green, and the vines that have a warm exposure will color beautifully iu the autumn, from the darkest shade of maroon to the most brUliant scarlet. It is a very hardy vine, needing no care or protection in the winter, and is one of the earliest to cheer us with its buds in the spring; and no insects or worms live or harbor on it. It can be grown from the seed or from cuttings, as it will root easily at the joints, or fixim sprouts. It needs little or no cultivation, and makes a beautiful covering for an unsightly wall, fence or building. It requires support I ike a G rape-vine; and when the vines are large ami l.ra .y a good way to fasten them up is to get at a lumber yard what are called furring strips; nail blocks an inch or more thick to the wall or building at proper height and distance apart, and then nail these furring strips on the blocks, leaving the vines between the strips and the wall; and as the vines continue to grow and clamber up, hold them up by nail- ing on more of these strips. Some Notes on the February Issue. W. FALCONER, QUEENS CO.. N. Y. Early Celery. It is almost impossible for me to get blanched Celer.v a.s early as July 1st (p. 89), on account of rust. An Improved Hot-bed, p. 91.— First-rate in every way. But if I could afford to build a house like that I'd heat it by hot water and a base burn- ing boiler. Manure at $2 a wagon load, and the time spent in hauling, heating, fitting in and etc.! No, it wouldn't pay on Long Island. Peas. I think it better to wait four or five days and get delicious Alphas than to strive for earli- ness and eat the comparatively tasteless Daniel O'Rourke— the " Earliest " and "Extra Early" of many seedsmen. MiNA LoBATA, to flower it, p. iC— Raise the plants early, plant out in poor soil and a warm, sunny exposure. It has flowered beautifully in several places around New York. No Money in Radishes.— Riverhead,at the east end of Long Island, February 'Sd, a butcher's store. Splendid Turnip Radishes in bunches of a dozen roots were for sale; price 3 cents a bunch! Grow Radishes and star\e to death! An Effectfve Tree Gitard, p. 100.— Perhaps if it were turned upside down. As the lowermost branches are the widest spreading, so should the guard be widest at the bottom. And that is bad; it should be of the same width top and bottom. Galtonia (Byacinthus) Candicans, p. 101.— It bears and ripens seeds abundantly. Seeds sown in rows out-of-doors in spring germinate as readily as do those of Onions or Gladioluses, and seedlings bloom the second year. While young bulbs have been perfectly hard.\' with mc, old or large bulbs left out-of-doors have rotted. To Make A Quick Lawn, p. 1U.5.— No, No. If you wish to make a lawn don't use cither Oats or Timothy under any circumstance*, nor sow an ounce of Red top that costs only 40 cents a bushel. Amaryllises From Seed, p. .534.- Sow any time when you get the seed, providing you can keep up a minimum temperature of fiO°. In sow- ing I stick in the seeds edgewise; in this way they are less apt to rot than if they were sown flat on their sides. They germinate in 3 or 4 weeks. I i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 141 floirt i-est them at all the first winter, but (iit so the second winter. Most of them will bloom when three years old. They are very ea-sily raised from seed. I liave some ma^nifieent .\mar,\llises in bloom now, anf these, but it would prove a paying investment to pro- vide lines of such to the windward of each field or lot. Here they would serve the several pur- poses of protecting the crops in the winter by preventing the snow from drifting oir and also from the drying winds and storms of summer. A Spruce wind-break would make THE ITASCA. an e.i(cellcnt line fence, that would last a life- time, and would often save over-winter crops from heaving, by •keeping the snrms of midsummer, and the cold November blasts, could all be avoided. Aside fr()m theconsiderati<»n that early vege- ' tables could be gniwn to be much earlier, and it may be .said that damage by wind to the glass of the hot-beds and cold-frames would also be avoided. Starting Wind-breaks. Is the almost uni- versal ab.sence of such a \'aluable adjunct to the fruit farm and garden to he laid to high costl' This cannot Jje, for the price of evergreens and especially of thrifty yo\mg nursery seedlings Is by the quantity really ridiculously low. If such are procured ami brought along on the premises the cost reall.^■ needs hardly to be considered. The one fact that more than any other may account for much of this seeming neglect, no doubt, is the poor success that so often attends the transplanting of medium and large ever- greens especially. The fact is not to be disre- garded that as compared with deciduous trees, evergreens as a class are very susceptible to injur.v from improi)er handling between digging and transplantnig. But on the other hand, by right methods, there are no easier trees to ha\e grow. The gi'eat and only secret is, keep the roots alwa.^■s moist anlant on the high land. When i)lanted on low land ttu-\ are aiit to lie destroyed by ice or water lying on them duriuM- the winter season. —C. E. P. ."iiiT. Fropagation of Hydrangea Panicnlata. You can readily increase this shrub on a limited scale by luyei-s.— C. E. P. 144 POPULAR GARDENING. April, Some Comments on Current Topics. S. S. CRISSEY, FREDONIA, N. T. 1. It does not look to those best informed among our vineyardists as if the Worden will ever supplant the Concord as a general market and shipping Grape. Further trial may change this opinion, bnt it seems too soft to be safe for long shipments. As a second early market black Grape, coming between the Moore's Early and the Concord, it is a success. The vineyardists having the Worden, can let their Concords get fully ripe and well colored. 2. Before final judgment is pronounced on the KeilTer Pear, try it for canning. For eating out of hand it is miser- able, but good judges pro- nounced the samples which were grown and canned here the past season'; as of exceeding fine quality, and su- perior to any other variety. Don't condemn the Keifier till you have tried it canned ! 3. In all es- tablished vine- yards, put up on post and wire trellises, there should always be three wires. In the case of both sucker and tip vari- eties the work with a hoe is reduced to a minimum, while nearly the whole of the soil is stirred up to a sufficient depth. I plant and cultivate Gooseberries and Cur- rants in a similar manner. I never use a plow in the berry plantation. It may be ex- cusable upon some hard soils. I use a cul- tivator that can be made to stir up the ground to a considerable depth, while it leaves the surface nearly level. A neglected Raspberry patch soon ceases to pay. Previous to planting any of the small fruits I prefer to have the ground deeply plowed and well manured, and the grass soon learn, as men in other walks have, to confine themselves to certain specialties that are most suitable to them. and probably four would be better you cannot get along with less than three. This may or may not be the " Kniflfen " system; it is the " Common Sense " system, and our best growers are falling into line | and adopting the plan. If anybody wants ' the reasons we can give an abundance of good ones. By the way, always buy No. 9 wire of good quality. 4. Look out for the English Sparrow. He has come to stay and the pirate will eat and destroy Grapes. If you have a few choice vines in the garden you will need to watch them, and we advise bagging if you want to save them. .5. Every fruit grower shotild have the year round a compost heap. On it should be poured all house slops, soapsuds, etc. It should have a large proportion of loam, old sods, and an occasional sprinkling of salt. Keep unleached ashes by themselves. 6. The first bearing year, usually the third year from planting, never put up more than two bearing canes, having not more than six buds each. This is no theory, nor guess work, Init the result of the dearly bought experience of many growers. 7. The man who pays $.3.5 a ton for com- mercial fertilizers to sow in the vineyard and then lets the weeds grow, may not be a fool, but his symptoms look that way. 8. For profit and good looks the Pockling- ton is one of the first if not the first white Grape. As to quality it must take second place. If you want to grow a white Grape that is of A. 1. quality try the Lady. A Country School House. From a Photograph. But Raspberry Growing. E. MORDEN, NIAGARA FALLS SOUTH, ONT. My plans in some respects are ditTerent from those related in a recent excellent ar- ticle in these columns. Instead of planting 'i\i or 3 by B, I plant about 4x6 and cultivate crosswise as well as lengthwise. The ad- vantages of this plan are almost self-evi- dent. The sucker varieties, instead of forming a dense hedge with many unpro- ductive canes, are confined to a small "hill" with a limited number of productive canes. Fig. 6. The same as Fig. 4, with the planting done after Fig. 5. ORNAMENTATION OF COUNTRY SCHOOL YARDS. SEE PAGE 138. and weeds subjugated. I have always found much trouble from the use of stable manure upon growing plantations. Such manure nearly always contains enough grass seeds to establish a sod. The Cuthbert is the only Red Raspberry that I care to grow for market. Although Peaches, Grapes and the tender fruits came safely through the winter and spring of 1887, the Cuthbert was severely shortened with me. Previous to this time it came safely through. I have not met anyone who could account for the injury to the Cuth- bert in this instance. Considering their in- trinsic value. Blackcaps have been the cheapest of fruits of late years. As they cannot be produced, picked and marketed at the prices recently realized, their cultiva- tion is likely to be narrowed down to soils that are especially suited to them. General farmers ought not to try to grow Raspberries for market. They make noth- ing themselves, and so demoralize the mar- kets that even specialists fail to make the business pay. Cultivators of the soil must About Rose Pruning. W. F. LAKE, ERIE C'l.. N. Y. As to the actual amount of pruning-in of last year's growth on Hybrid Perpetual Roses, but few rosarians claim that any hard and fast rules can be laid down. Per- haps the safest, and on the whole the most useful, is to let everyone be persuaded in his own mind as to the reasonableness of his practice. After removing the weak and exhausted shoots, all over the plant first, the stronger branches that need shortening most will be more obvious, and the degree of such cutting may be readily and more wisely determined. To cut out entirely all such weak branches helps to prolong the life, augment the vigor, and greatly im- prove the beauty of the bushes. The proper time for pruning those entire- ly hardy, is late in the fall, but those vari- eties which are liable to be frozen back in winter (and it is to be regretted that with severe northern winters these are not few among the list of Hybrid Perpetuals) should be left until early spring. Many advocate the principle of leaving more wood on Teas than on the hardy sorts, but I have noticed that the former are as much benefited by short pruning as the latter. At times, however, it is impracti- cable to prune Teas as close as desirable, owing to long jointed habit of growth, and in this case cut at a plump bud, even if it be at some distance up from the soil. Never leave a stalk cut off at a point halfway between two buds; it is the very e\-idenoe of a novice in the gardening art. This not only applies to Rose culture, but to anything that has tobe pruned. It has been said by an exper- ienced Rose grower the weaker the growth the more severe should be the pruning, and the stronger the gro^^^th, the less severe should the cutting be. When the first pruning of the spring is done do not think that the knife is to be laid aside, for if we aim at quantity of bloom from closely pruned plants, it should be in hand the whole season through. Go over the bushes as soon as the first buds start, and where several appear at the same joint, rub all away but the one strongest, and on tender Roses go over them again after the shoots are sutficiently long to see if any are coming blind, that is with- out flowering buds or the power to produce shoots. If any such are found, cut back to the main shoot. Never permit a blind shoot to grow on. It is not a very easy thing to write how a blind may be distin- guished from a flowering shoot, Ijut I am confident that an observant person by the aid of some careful comparisons cannot fail to distinguish such. The experienced specialist in any class of plants, though learning always, looks back to the same lines that led to success, and repeats his methods. So should we also 1/earn in the matter of how we prune. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. H5 WALKS AND JOTTINGS. BY A. M. PURDY, PAOIYRA, N. Y. Early Strawberries. Some such may be had by taking up a few sods of matted vines the first open spell and putting in the greenhouse or liot-l)ed, l)ut care must be taken to have tliem close to the sash and have them well covered every day when it will do to raise the sash. Shelter Belts. These are indispensable as a rule. We know of a row of Sugar Maples growing on the west side of a large field, and east of that for forty to sixty rods wheat will, after severe ojieii winters, turn out much heavier than beyond that line. The row of trees breaks the force of the wind and scatters it. A Strawberry planta- tion on the east side of wood land does not heave, while away from its protection plants heave badly. We are planting rows of the Russian Mulberry on west and north lines of our grounds, as they grow so rapidly. As old orchardist says he has trimmed Apple trees every month in the year and considers June the best time, as wounds readily heal then, The next best time is November, March being the worst month in the whole year, as the cut bleeds badly and the under bark rots. Water sprouts should be pulled oft from June to September, but never cut off from January to April, as two or three will come out where one was cut off. He says he would cultivate young orchards five to six years after setting and manure broadcast every other year. Trees should not be grown permanently nearer than 40 feet. Apples are later and drop from trees less in grass than in cultivated land. To M.\KE SuPEKi'Hosi'H ATK. Crush bones and put into diluted sulphuric acid of suffic- ient strength to dissolve them. A layer of plaster under and over will absorb the am- monia when dissolved. A good way to use is to mix thoroughly with flue sifted coal ashes, (not wood ashes), or fine dry earth, and scatter in where plants are set or on the surface and work in. Mulching with stones may sound strange and yet it is very beneficial. The best Strawberry crop we had on our grounds one e.xceedingly droughty seiison was in a field almost literally covered with cobble stones from the size of a butternut to a cocoanut, and when a boy we always found fine crops of Raspberries and Blackberries on bushes growing out through stone heaps, and better crops of Apples on trees having a pile of stones around them than those growing in sods, and, too, one of the tjest Corn crops in this section of the country one very dry sea- son was in a field alnn)st covered with cobble stones. Does not this prove their value as a mulch y So we say, don't be afraid to plant small fruits in a stony field. Strawberries AiList;. We have letters from different parties asking what is the trouble with their Strawberry vines; that they seem to blight and roll up and die. Some say by close inspection they find a small minute worm. It is the varmint common- ly called " Leaf Roller " or " Strawberry worm." He does his mischief in hot, dry weather. They niake a plantation look as though a fire had run over it. When living in Indiana we had oiu- Strawberry planta- tion entirely used up and destroyed by this pest. The best remedy we ever tried was to scatter over ihe bed straw or hay, ,iust thick enough to cover plants from sight and burn it over. This should be done right after fruiting season. This not only destroys the worm, but also weed seed and all weeds, and is also a remedy for Strawberry rust. Corn Fodder as a Mulch. Yes, it is ex- cellent, especially if run through a feed cutter of sufficient power and capacity. Evaporated Raspberries. We have .lust sold our Black Raspberries (evaporated), part of them hand picked and part harvested, for'.J4 cents per pound net, to a Chicago party. We sold our Red Raspberries early to a Philadelphia party for .30 cetns net, They are now selling for 38 to 40 cents per pound net, which is as good as 8 cents per quart net for the fresh berries. SITE FOR the orchard. Mr, Geo. J. Kellogg, a weU known horticultur- ist of Wisconsin, says many of the orchards in that state are on the wrong side of the hill— they should be on the highest, driest, poorest, clay timber ridges with our northern and eastern slope. Never on the s< mth and southwestern side of a hill, and noprott't-tion nn tlu- ixn-tli uikI rust, and with a low wimilireak on tlie soutliwest. Never plant on a gravel or sand knoll witliout clay or limestime within four feet of the top. If you must plant on low, level black loam, plow as deep a dead furrow as possible where each row is to stand, then flU this with stone with an outlet if possible, as drainage, then plow back and raise as high an edge as possible where the trees are to stand, and if you have an outlet put a tile drain halt way lietween the rows of trees. We clip above from the Journal of Horti- culture, and are reminded by it that many farmers in Western New York find that the to bear, and he stated that when the Wealthy of the same age bore a bushel and a half to the tree, not one of the Russian varieties bore over halt a bushel. He said that most of them blighted of those that remained, and the rest did not bear enough only to make up a collection for a fair. Pierce, of Minneapolis, reported difficulty and described a twelve year old orchard with twenty-five varieties which had borne well, and some of the fruit of fair quality. J. E. Corlett, of Iowa, had tried a hun- dred varieties of the older sorts, and lost all, and his only hope was in the Russian, Secretary Hoxie of the Wisconsin Experi- mental Station had found that not more than one in three of the Russian Apides was as hardy as the Duchess of Oldenburg, 57 per cent of the former and only 10 per cent of the Duchess dying. Peter M. Gideon said the true road to success was in crossing the Siberian Crab with the common Apple, and he had worked on that tree ever since the production of the Wealthy, 2S years ago, and the results had surpassed his strongest hopes in more than twenty first-class Apples. He expected a great deal from his 30,000 select seedlings, not yet fruited. He had tried many Russian sorts and the blight destroyed all but three in one orchard; the fruit of these were worthless. He got 230 more and the blight destroyed them. Fig. 5. Plan for the improvements shown in Fig. 6, by the lAanting of Shrubs. Highway on two sides. best use to put their west and northside hills to is Apple orchards. These locations keep the fruit back from early blossoming and thus save the crop from destruction by late spring frosts and from cold northeast storms that we have many times in late spring. MANURING SMALL FRUITS. All the animals that die a natural death, all the butcher offal and such other offensi\ c matter as accumuhites about a farm i^honhl lif Intried in the i>ateti nf miKiII fruit, between the rows. Last summer our Itusiibenies were a sight to behold, both in size and quantity, and of the best flavor. Yet it would be hardly proper to mention to sensitive ears the animal matter in different forms that the plants had chemically transpo.sed. The above we take from the Weekly Trib- une, and wish here to protest against such indiscriminate and dangerous advice. We are not told in what proportion to apply this offal, or how. When applied direct and in large quantities it would produce such an excessive and unnatural growth as to make the plants unproductive and too tender to withstand winters in most sections. No bet- ter fertilizer can be used, but it should first be mixed with four times its bulk of earth and thrown over two or three times for one season, and then applied at the rate of not to exceed a bushel to the square rod and then only on poor soil. RUSSIAN APPLES. We take from the report of the Minnesota Horticultural Society the following items in regard to Russian Apples, in the trade of which there is now such a "boom." Mr. Tuttle admitted that blight was the great enemy of the fruit, and that those sorts not killed by winter did not bear much. He ex- hibited T.i varieties. O, F, Brand exhibited 0.5 sorts in his orchard, mo.stly large enough ANSWERS TO SOME CORRESPONDENTS. W. G., Of Ohio, enquires how we manage to keep grubs away from Peach trees. Simply by giving the trees once a j'ear a good coat of white- wash, in which we put a spoonful of salt and carbolic acid to a 14-quart pail .CiO. The cost of setting need not exceed ten dollai-s. Rjispberries, 2,(X)0 to the acre. Cost of setting five dollai-s and ot plants $12 to 815. Of coui-se, after you have got one plantation out you will get all the plants afterwards j ou lequire from these, and hence no cost of plants after the first year. It will well pay if you have land south favorable for Peach growing to plant it out and give a reliable party the use of the land and ciops he may grow from it to take care of the trees till they come to lii-ar. 146 POPULAR GARDENING. April, A Neglected Old Favorite.— Rein- wardtia (Linum) Trigynum. Sometimes the chase for novelty in orna- mental plants leads the pursuers from that which is old and meritorious to new things of really less intrinsic worth. Among the good old plants which to a certain extent have thus been displaced the subject of the annexed handsome engraving, Reinwardtia (or as it is more commonly known I>inum) trigynum. stand conspicuous. This plant is a handsome shrub of free growth, but dwarf in stature, with smooth entire leaves and large bright yellow flowers disposed of in racemes. It is a native of the mountains of the East Indies. It is suited to greenhouse culture for the period sub- .iect to cold and frosts, but dur- ing the summer it may with advantage be grown out-of- doors in the border lifting the plants in September. But to those having a green- house ranging in temperature from about .50 to (ill" at night in the winter, this plant will be found to reach its highest degree of usefulness when treated as a winter flowering plant. Thus employed, and if grown into good thrifty speci- mens, the plants yield a contin- uance of their exceedingly gay blossoms from Fall throughout the winter months. For this purpose either old plants or young ones raised from cuttings the spring pre\ 1 ous should be tised. Thecin- tings for the latter .should bi taken from the strongest poin 1 -^ of old plants, and inserted in .1 close fi-ame in April for root ing. When rooted they should promptly go into pots and be brought along in a moderately warm house until established in five or six inch pots. When the plants are designed to be grown to their best for wintei' flowering they must be brought along continuously in pots. The most suitable place for winter bloom- ing plants during the summer is in a frame where air can be freely admitted. The plants like sunshine in plenty, but if they can have shade at midday from the more intense rays of the sun it is an advantage. During the time of growth in young plants, and in fact at all other times, pinching should be fre- quently done to induce a compact shape. With a little careful attention in this respect plants of great beaitty may be raised. Being a mountain plant the Reinwardtia can submit to almost any kind of treatment better than that of over-watering at the root. But while this is to be studiously guarded against, both by providing good drainage for the pot and by the judicious use of the watering can, yet this rule must not be forced into the other extreme of withholding moistiu-e unduly. The fact is the plants thrive best in a rather moist atmosphere, hence to syringe them morning and after- noon is found to be good treatment. Another fact that calls for rather free syring- ing is that the red spider, which is one of this plant's most persistent enemies, can by this means be readily kept down, a matter of much importance. No plant can thrive if infested by this pest, the common atten- dant of a dry and heated condition. Plants of this species of Reinwardtia may be procured from such of our leading ship- ping florists as Robert Halliday of Balti- more, John Saul of Washington, and we presume of others. We observe that the plant is still ottered under the former name of Linum trigynum in some catalogues. Chrysanthemums That are Grown About Boston. BY A BOSTON FLORIST. As the time is at hand when the young Chrysanthenuim plants that are to flower next season should be started , a few notes on the finest varieties shown at the last Chrysanthemum show of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society may be of use to many cultivators of this flower. The increase in nvimber of varieties shown was quite noticeable, especially among the Japanese, and it must be admitted that it is to this class that we owe, in a great increase, the brilliant displays of color in the Chrys- anthemum shows of to-day. Prmniiii'Tit aiiioun tlio olili-i- varietii.-.': iif PLANT OF REINWARDTIA (LINUM) TRIGYNUM. Chinese shown in the various collections of plants were Mrs. W. Haliburton, M. Roux, Mabel Ward, Mrs. George Rundle, Mr. George Glenny, Christine, Jardin des Plantes, Mrs. Forsyth, Prince of Wales, Mrs. Sharpe, Baron Beust, Jeanne d'Arc and Brazen Shield; and among the Japan- ese, Wm. Robinson, Beaute de Toulouse, Gorgeous, Cullingfordii, Gloriostim, Fair Maid of Guernsey, L'Incomparable, Fanny Boucharlat, M. Boyer, Source d'Arc, Bras- rouge, M. Paule Fabre, Belle Paule, Margot, Mr. Delaux, Mrs. C. H. Wheeler, Tokio, Comte de Germany and Flambeaux. Among Pompons were Brilliant, Mr. Astie, La Fi- ancee, Salamon, Golden Bedder, Buttercup, Freemy, Soeur Melanie and Antonias. With the exception of Nahanton, Chinese, and Mrs. Gane, Pompon Anemone, all the new varieties shown were Japanese. The former is a large, finely incurved flower of lilac pink color with white center; it has a fine sturdy habit with erect branches, and is free-flowering. The latter is a pitre white Anemone of medium size and very perfect in form; a free bloomer and strong grower, with rich, dark green leaves, which set off its i)ure white flowers to great advantage. A plant of this variety, five feetthrough and two and one-half feet high, took first prize iis a specimen Anemone flowered sort. The best new ones among the Japanese were M. Freeman, H, A. Gane, Pres. Hyde, John Webster, Enchantre.sse, Mile. Me- lanie Fabre, Mile. Paule Dutour, Domina- tion, Mad. Marie ('los and Blanc Precoce. M. Freeman anil Mile. Melanie Fabre are much alike in general effect, and are both remarkably flne varieties in every way; they both have a strong, compact and free flower- ing habit and are similar in color, a rich rose pink, the latter having a slight yel- lowish tinge that the former does not; and while the flowers of M. Freeman are very large and are considerably incurved at first, those of Mile. Melanie Fabre are never so and are borne in immense clusters. H. A. Gane is another flne, bright, pink variety of very strong and free habit. Pres. Hyde without exception was the finest yellow variety shown. It is a re- markably free bloomer with large full flowers of the richest yellow; it has a strong and healthy habit. In its peculiar color there is nothing to compare with Enchantress; a full, feathery flower of a clean lilac pink color; remarkably free flowering and dwarf in habit. Domination is a very large, full double white flower with long, straight petals of great substance. For so large a flower it is very strong and free in habit. Mile. Paule Dutour, one of the latest French varieties, is likely to become a great favor- ite. It has a strong, erect habit, with large, full, double reflexed flowers, pure white in the cen- ter, with the tips of the petals deep pink; a remarkably free bloomer, Mme, Marie Clos, another French variety, introduced at the same time as the last, is s( imewhat in the way of Mme. C. Andiguier but of a much deeper shade. It has a good habit and is free blooming. Blanc Precoce, also one of the latest French varieties is sure to be widely grown. It is free flowering,full double white flower with twisted petals, of good habit and great keeping qualities; the plant showoi was in good condition and had been so for nearly a month previous. In the class for trained standards there was but one e.xhibitor, Mr. William Martin, of Milton, v^•ith four plants, but these were the finest ever exhibited in Boston. They had stems ranging from five to eight feet in height, supported by but one stake, and com- pact heads three and four feet through. The varieties used were .Jardin des Plantes, Grandiflora and Fair Maid of Guernsey. It will not be out of place to make special mention of the flowers shown by Mrs. J. M. Voodice, of Worcester, as they showed what can be done in raising Chrysanthemums without the aid of a greenhouse. Some of her flowers were equal to any shown. Edna Craig, Sunlight, Domination, Mrs. O. H. Wlieeler and La Triumphant were all flne. One of the most interesting features of the exhibition was a collection of Chrysanthe- mums recently sent from Japan, and flowered and shown here for the flrst time by E. Fewkes & Son, af Newton Highlands, Mass. Many of the varieties were decidedly unique as well as beautiful, notably the variety named Mrs, Alphonse Hardy, which is probably the most distinct and rare Chrys- anthemum known. It is a pure white, full double flower, with the outer surface ot the incurved tips of the petals thickly covered with a cotton-like pile. Another peculiar form among them, called Medusa, was one with very long, droop- ing, ribbon-like petals resemliling the flowers of the White Fringe tree. There were sev- eral other forms more fantastic than beau- tiful, but the varieties named Mrs. Tattler, iS88. POPULAR GARDENING. 147 Emmie Kicker, Neesima and Lilian B. Bird were very distinct and of ricli and rare colors, especially Mrs. Tattler, a larse double flower composed of long feathery petals of a very clear shade of rose pink; and Neesima a very full Hower of great substance and of the richest orange yellow color. About Brick Flues. L. B. PIERCE, SUMMIT CO., OHIO. My experience with sewer pipe for a green- house fine was very unsatisfactory from two reasons. One was the difficulty cleaning, and the other from expansion and contrac- tion, which kept the joints in a more or less leaky condition. I have built a number of brick flues, and the folU>wing is the way my present one is constructed. The ground was first graded and then two parallel .strips of fence boards laid down. On these pieces of brick were set edgeways. On the bricks I laid a floor for the flue, of burned clay slabs twelve inches wide, and are made of sewer pipe clay mixed with one-fifth sawdust, and are used, I l)elieve, in constructing fire-proof buildings. They have a rebate of one inch at each end, so by reversing every other piece they lap by, and prevent the mortar dropping out, which it is sure to do with a floor made of brick. On this floor, which has a clear space of four inches under- neath, I make the sides of tlie flue of three bricks on edge. The two lower courses are set perpendicular, while the upper one is in- clined inwards one inch, making the upper edge of the flue six inches in the clear, and giving the eight inch brick top a bearing of one inch at each end. It is not necessary to get a mechanic to build the flue if one has a little gumption. To build it rapidly and workmanlike a couple of forms to build against are needed. I take four pieces of wood twelve and one- half inches long and three wide. One end is tapered so as to be but two inches wide, com- mencing four inches from the end. To two of these pieces a straight board one-half inch thick, eight inches wide, and forty inches long, is nailed with one foiu- inches wide at the side of it, on the beveled part. Another is made like this, and the two together sepa- rated by a bit of inch board, are just the form of the inside of the Hue. The brick are rapidly laid up against the outside of these forms, and when the end is reached, the bits of board are removed and the forms slipped along another length. When every thing is ready, six feet an hour can be built at a cost of twenty three cents for material per foot. The top is covered with a single course of brick laid crossways. A flue constructed in this way with a return is large enougli to run a house / '■' '\ /'// V e d € ^L _ _. 6 t into piles and then collected in baskets. Then they can be at once sown in drills, and will grow five or six inches in height the first season.— GfH. Dearborn. Fitting Strawberry Ground. A recent article on planting Strawberries leads me to make a suggestion; that, is to fit all the ground wanted at once as early in the season as the ground is fit to work. First plow carefully, then harrow- thoroughly, and float down with a clod crusher. Ktted in this way, the planting can be done at any time up to May 15th, with a pretty good cer- tainty of finding a moist firm soil to put the roots in. If the weeds have started a little, scrape them away with the trowel, and the next day hoe be- tween and around the plants, cultivating through the rows as soon after as possible. The main trouble with late setting of Strawberries is that the ground is imperfectly fitted in a drying day, after the spring rains are over, and the plants do not get moisture enough to commence growth. —L.B. Pierce^ Summit Co.^ Ohio. Strawberries in Florida. The Newman is not as large as the Shai'pless or Jersey Queen, but it will average as large as Wilson's Albany grown side by side. It is also a much more productive and profitable variety in Florida. I have experi- mented carefully with the following varieties: Atlantic, Crescent, Cumberland Triumph, Capt. Jack, Chas. Downing, Countess, Daniel Boone, Glendale, Indiana, Jas. Vick, Jumbo, Kentucky, Lacon, Longfellow, Manchester, Miner's Prolific, Iron Clad, Sharpless, Sucker State, Warren, Wil- son's Albany. None of these are worth planting in this state for market, and only the Indiana is desirable for general cultivation for home use. The Federal Point is a Florida seedling, but is never called Little Giant so far as I know, and I get all the nursery and dealers' price lists. It is not a large berry, and is too soft for shipping to market, and is only recommended for home use on account of its sui>crior bloom.— 11'. C. Steele. Points in Zinnia Culture. Few plants equal the Double Zinnias for making effective beds of bloom. The seeds should be sttwn in March or April, and the seedlings transplanted once be- fore remo\nng to the open ground, which should not be done until danger of frost is past. Plant out temporaiily at about six inches apart, and as the first flowers appear select the finest double specimens, lifting with a ball of earth attached to the roots, remove them to where they are to flower, setting at eighteen inches apart each way. I have observed that there aie two kinds of seeds in a Zinnia. One (Fig. a) has pistil and petal attached but no stamen, and generally 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 149 produces double flowers. The other kind (Fig. b) has u pistil, and a star formed stamen, which when broken off leaves the seed heart shaped; this is about sure to produce sinprle flowers. By saving the seeds that have a petal attached I have got the Bowel's to come so double that some fail to produce seeds, and many only a few. — ir. r. J.. Nativk. .V0.S.1. A Sparrow Trap. Remove the sash from a window in the loft of a barn or other building. Make a bo.Y to fit the opening with a depth of eight or ten inches; make a frame to provide apartments six or eight inches square to flU the bo.\; nail an outside cover over the whole, and bore a two and one-half inch hole thn^ugb the cover into each compartment, then fl.\ a folding shelf under each row of holes for the birds to alight on. This may be done by using thin boards three or four inches wide, fastened with leather hinges and driving a ten penny nail in the edge of the bo.\ under the ends of each shelf. All is now ready, set the box into the window frame and leave it for the birds to "move in," which they will soon do. When the colony ap- pears to be pretty well established and in a thri^-ing condition, ascend to the loft after dark close the holes with the hinged shelves and let vengeance sleep until daylight. Then sink the box in the river.af terwards emptying and return- ing it for further vfovk.—Saitnifl L. DanweJL Two Garden Baskets. One day in early spring I prepared " a ready basket." First a pair of old kid hoots were cut into narrow strips and then placed in it. Then I pro^^ded a small pa- per of tacks. I wound up yards and yards of string from tlie (quantities collected about the house, ily hammer, a box of nails, a pruning knife, a pair of scissors, and plenty of short sticks to tie my strings to, were added. The weather changed suddenly and I could soon work in my garden, and in the few leisure mo- ments of my busy house cleaning days, with my basket I was ready for the Grape-vines and and other plants and bushes. Dry leather strips, tacks and knife were all at hand. I could not have spent the time to look them up. I could devote a few moments putting the strings for the vines in place, for here the stakes were pre- pared. All the spring ray ready basket was a blessing. 1 now have a " weed basket." I carry it down the garden walks and tuck in stray weeds, stones or sticks that a])pear. I can then dispose of them all at once, and keep my beds in spic span order.— .Si.vtf/' Graciouit. Harvel of Peru Culture, The seed can be sown earl.N' in March in a well drained pot or pan filled with light, loamy soil. Sow thinly, cover with a quarter of an inch of loamy soil, and place in a warm, moist situation as close to the glass as possible. As soon as the young plants are strong enough to handle they should lie potted off' into three inch pots and grown on until the weather becomes warm and settled, when they can be planted outside in a deep, moderately enriched soil and sunny situation. The young plants should not be permitted tfi be- ccmie drawn w hile small, so to guard against this they should Ix; removed to a cool, airy situation as soon as the j>ots become well tilled with root*^. If the seeds do not furnish an ample supply of plants, cuttings of the t<:>ps can be put in sand, and when rooted, (which they will iiuickly do) treated preciselj' as adWsed , for seedling plants. (Ill [fl I 11) IB The roots can be taken up as soon as the tops have been destroyed by frost, placed in barrels and stored in a cool, dry, frost-proof cellar for ancither season\s use. —a E. PariieU. The White Tiger-flower. One of the easiest cla.sses ot i»lants til culti\'ate is that embracing Tiger-flowers or Tigridias These are summer bulbous plants: that is the growth springs from a bulb, which Ijeing not hardy in the North (al- though Mexico is the home of the type), re- quires to be lifted each fall and be planted the following spring. The treatment is therefore almost identical with that of the Gladiolus and Tuberose. But our object now is to call atten- tion to the compai-atively new White Tiger- flower, an engraving of which is annexed. This one in color differs from the prevailing colors of yellow and orange peculiar to the better known sorts, by having pearly-white or de^d-white in ■ Zinnia .Sped.— Sec Points in Zinnia Culture. the main parts, with a yellowish {jrroiiinl t(»wards the inner half of the petals, where the brilliant spots that are flistinetive of this ^fenuB are lo- cated. These spotjs in the subject of our sketch I are of a reddish brown or chestnut color, and well entitle the plant to l>e called the White Tijrer-Hower. Its flowers are of (?ood size, and from strong bulbs are produced in succession I for a long: time. Whenever this variety well grown has lieen shown side of the other species it has attracted marked attention. Concerning the management of the bulbs, they should with other Tigridias be planted about the middle of May. setting them about two inches deep in any rich garden soil. The bulbs and offsets require to be lifted in October and dried, being careful not to expose them to frost while drying or at The White-Flowered Tigridia. any time. They are best wintered in dry sand or sawdust. In storing them away one thing must be specially guarded against, namely, mice are very fond of the bulbs, and if they are ex- posed to their ravages not many of them will be left for use in spring. Popular Gardening and the Tree Agents. Careful readers of this journal know that we do not denounce all tree agents. We have, it is true, often advised against dealing with agents who are strangers— those who cannot gi\'e satis- factory references as to their reliability, or of their connections with trustworthy nurserymen. But for the intelligent and honest agents, of which we know there are many, we entertain only the kindest of feelings. Among such are to be recognized many true missionaries of horti- culture, whose work in the developing of a wide interest in the planting of fruit and ornamental trees is worthy of all praise. Were it only the case that this class was not, in many parts of the country, actually far outnumbered by that rascally set who live through perpetrating the most outrageous swindles on the people, we would feel less often called upon Ut place our readers on their guard. As it is we must con- tinue to say, beware of the strange agent who cannot furnish references that are entirely sat- isfactory. It is a chief characteristic of a swind- ler that he is a stranger, for he must needs seek new fields where he is unknown, with each re- curring season. The agent who confines his w()rk mainly to the same section year after year is the man who usually may be trusted. Such men hardly need a special recommendation at our or anyone's hands, for with becoming well known and in a sense favorably identified with the planting interests of a given region, there is no lack of good references at their command. We have in mind one agent of this kind who. although his start at the business was attendeectability in their profession. The secret of this agent's success lay in three things, namely. the giving of good advice looking to years ahead, the furni.shing of only the best of stock true to name, and an unlimited bucking of good references. Floral Matters About New York City. The most mteresting event of late has been the Orchid sh(tw at the Kden Musee, the second of its kintl. The arrangement was very Uisteful, sug- gesting many ideas in decoration, and the entire affair reflected great credit on its managers, 8ie- breeht & Wadley. The use of real ('ocoanut trees from Trinidad, laden with nuts, was decidedly novel, and the array of Palms, hung with epiphy- tal Orchids, were rich and tropical in appearance. Tw() of the great attractionsto Orchid fanciers wei-e cut bh>omsof Laeliabella and ('ypripedium Morganiannm. from the collection of Erastus < 'orning, Esq. Both are rarities, and both are of unusual beauty; the Laelia, which is a garden hybrid between Laelia purpurata and Cattley^ labiata, is the loveliest of its family. There were some plants of unusual size; one Cattleya Trianae belonjiing to Siebrecht & Wadley had 25 open ttowers. A plant of Coelogyne cristata exhibited by Jas. Ctirnley, gardener to Mrs. F. B. Hays, Lexington, Mass., filled a janliniere five feet long ind two wide; it is probabl>' the largest coelogyne ever exhibited. rattle.\a Schroederiana was another rare and beautiful thing, and there were five Oncidiums; in fact, everything in the <.)rchid line now in flower was there. There is no doubt that Orchids now hold a recognized place in the cut fiower trade; they are used in all good work. Of course they will ne\'er take the place of Koses, but they are just as necessary, while occupying a place of their own. Decorative plants are coming to the front, too; the prudent florist will no longer trust entirely in flowers, but will use plants largely for nf)ticeable effects. Useful Palms and Ferns that will stand some hard usage are decidedly salable. Flowering plants are being used in table decor- ation with \ery happy effects, A pretty arrange- ment for luncheon was of pink Primulas. A piece of green crape was laid down the center of the table; the Piimroses, dropped into willow baskets, stood on this. Bulbs, Narcissus, Hya- cinths and Tulips are used in this way. The Lenten season does not seem to affect the florists very much. There were some very pretty effects in decoration at a recent German. Some of the doorwaj's had curtains of Smilax looped up by bunches of Roses. The mantels were loosely strewn with flowers, instead of having a formal bank. One hif,rh carved mantel piece was draped with Asparagus and an elaborate arrangement of Orchids. The favors were old-fashicmed Quaker straw bonnets, of the style of fifty years ago; they were loosely tied together, and then filled with flowers of one color, Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, etc. About the time of the Orchid show a good many fashionable dames were to be seen on the promenade wearinga single Cattleya, or a spray of Dcndrobium. But as a rule the street bouquet is a single American Beauty, a few Violets, or half a dozen yellow Jonquils. The wild southern Smilax— Cape Smilax. as it is called— which at first sight rather suggests Cat- briar, is indisi>ensable in large decorations, where ordinary Smilax or Asparagus would hardly show. With it dried Palm leaves and Southern Pine are used. Any very formal effect is avoided in every decoration. No special novelty has appeared since the holi- days, unless we describe as such the dj'ed flowei-s which have been vexing the souls of the artistic. Since the ingenious originaU)r first sent out the " Emerald " Carnation the experiment has been tried on many flowers with many colore; some of the florists go in for it very extensively. Of course it is only a passing craze, and not a very commendable one, but we are growing used to blue Tulips, green Carnations and pink Violets. So long as people will buy them they will cer- tainly be produced. Though pink and yellow are still the orthodox coloi-s for a table decoration, some very dainty arrangements are being made in green and white, or green alone. In decorating a room flat baskets of flowering plants are placed on etageresor tables. Fine Cy- clamens show off well, as their foliage is so hand- some. Primulas answer the same purpose, both pink and white. For yellow effects, (jlenista and Acacia are combined with Joncpiils, or Acacia and Neil Roses. Mignonette is much liked with yellow flowers, or with pink. Mrae. Cusin and Papa Gontier are the favorite pink Roses. Emily Louise Taplin. ISO POPULAR GARDENING. April, " '!'<::;;- .^EINGMATTER'mAT DESERVES ftV - TO BC WIDELY KHOWH^ _jg;gj^ The cost of cultivating Grapes in California vine- yards is by Dr. Hiissman put at $2U per acre : the yield a-s ranginf? from three to ten tons pel" acre. %-^js Looking Ahead. Ship- ping and marketing at a profit requires pre\ious preparation in making arrangement with home dealers, selecting points to ship to when the home market is over-stocked, and getting special ex- press rates, etc.— »Socit(y HeiJort. Behold the Lilies. Ever since the weaver has applied his art, whether in silk or wool, or cotton, he has embellished his goods with representations of foliage and blossoms, and fruit, and the same is true of most all other decorations outside. ITo Wine for Him. The e.xtensive vineyardist, T. S. Hubliurd, of Fredonia, N. Y., told the Am- erican H(jrticultural Society recentl.v that he preferred to eat his Grapes, and not to drink the juice in the form of wine. The remark was re- ceived with great applause. The One Thing Needful. Many a laud owner who calls himself enterprising and who raises good crops forgets that with a few hours' work he could i)lant a dozen trees that would greatly enhance the value of his cstiite, and yield bless- ings of beaut.v long after he has passed away.— Geo. M. Whiliiker. Young People in the Society. Uur young people shoiUd be encouraged to join the Society. It will not be very long before the mantle will fall on their shoulders and they should be ready to take up their work. Besides, correct horticul- tural practice is most easily acquired, and proper habits are more readily formed by young people in the formative period of character; therefore let us encourage the young people of both sexes to become horticulturists.— Presidt/if Heynokls, of DouuUt,'<>< Co. (Ka^.) Society. Borers and Wood Peckers. The round-headed borers are being waked up at this season of the year by Guinea the woodpecker, which makes its entire meals of the larva of wood-eating beetles. I have watched them on the trunks of Apple trees in search of the borers; and have also seen them industriously pecking away there until they found the worm. The bill of this little bird will do a much nicer ji^b than the men whom we hire to cut and slash the bark of our trees. This noble bird should not be killed; it should be en- couraged by leading decayed trees on the farm for them to peck holes in for their winter homes. — 3/r. Dciuiny of Kau.'iatt. About the Dewberry. J. Stone of Iowa, in his paper on " The Dewberry," before the California meeting of the American Horticultural Society said am()ng other things that the tip-rooting varieties are better than those which propagate by suckers from the root. The Dewberry en- dures drought well and does best upon sandy soil. Cultivation is the same as for the Black- berry. The Dewberry in a very cold climate needs winter protection by covering with earth. The canes should be tied to stakes or trellises. Mulching is advantageous as a fertiUzer and as a protection in winter. The Lucretia and the Bartlett Mammoth are the two best varieties. Horticulture in Minnesota. The following in- teresting statistics were made up from the re- ports of different counties in Minnesota to the Secretary of State: Number. Apple trees growing, 1886 -174,258 Apple trees bearing. 1886 188,955 Bushels of Apples grown, 1886 123,199 Apple trees growing, 1887 478,742 Apple trees bearing, 1887 t6(»,926 Grape-vines in bearing, 1886 89,876 Pounds Grapes produced, 1886 2116,2U0 Grape-vines in bearing, 1887 87,171 Forest trees planted. 1887, on Arbor day ;127,180 Acres planted during season 3,220 Kods planted on highways and f anns, 1887 522,837 Acres forest trees growing In .State 47,431 Vegetable Seeds too Deep. There is not near so much danger of k)ss l)j' shallow seeding as by deep planting. I planted a quantity of Beet seed last spring and it was an almost entire failure, but where my little bo.v had spilled some on the surface and no effort was made to cover it up, Uccts came up in profusion. All gardeners agree tlyit one of the hardest things to do is to plant just deep enough and not too deep. The soil makes some difference as to depth of planting, but I would rather my ( inions were sowed on the top of the ground than half an inch deep. Onion seed accidentally spilled on the top of the ground always grows before that which is sown.— Afr. Kcycn, before the Cliautanqua Co. Society. Landscape Gardening and Politics. Speaking of this matter, our cori-espondcnt, N. Robei-tson, before the Ottawa (Can.) Horticultural Society scored a point against the patronage system. He said that often men were employed in this work, who were not qualitied in any other way than in being able to exert a certain amount of influence for the powers that be. In many cases these hands were entirely unfitted for the work. This was especially so in the Stiites. He thought that landscape gardening required a life study to as- sure anything like perfection. The person en- ging in it must also have a natural taste for it; technical training would never answer the same purpose. It took years of practical study and observation to be able to cope with the natural laws and surroundings with which the gardener came in contact, and which often baffled his j udg- ment and experience, and unless he had a natural love for his work he could not succeed. Vegetable (xardening. Are not good appetites, good food and good stomachs among life's great- est en.ioymentsV Is there anything in or out of earth, or sea, that contributes so much to that great desideratum of happiness as the vegetable garden? It is the first place in spring, the last in autumn, and the base of most pleasant remem- brances during the winter, as the mind reverts from Sweet Potato, Celery and Squash pie on the table to the time of anticipation felt from seed time to harvest. S(une of our fruit-growers may feel like claiming superiority for their products. I would not separate the fruits from other vege- tables or make a comparison, but have them con- stitute an adjunct without which the vegetable garden is incomplete. One is a necessity, one may be a necessit.v or it ma.v be a luxury; <.)ne is the piincipal food, the other mainly dessert. But what shall be said to stimulate vegetable garden- ing for health and profit? Our laud is fast being occupied by the tiUer of the soil. Our growing population is fast building great towns and cities where thousands live that of necessity must de- pend upon the market gardener. There is more money in the vegetable garden to-day than in the farm or orchard, or small fruit garden or vineyard. More money will be realized in the future of our state by vegetable gardeners than by any other class of soil cultivators. This fact is fast becoming apparent and must result in en- terprises of great v.ilue to the state.— E. J. Hol- mait, before the Kaitsas State Society. Ornamentation of Public School Grounds, Dr. Richard Edwards, Superintendent of Public In- struction, Springfield, presented a pajier on this subject, of which the following is a synopsis: We shoidd plant trees in school yards for the same reason that we do anywhere, but, as a rule, will be more permanently and effectually felt if en- joyed by children, than by older persons. We should plant trees because our streams, formerly so marked a feature of prairie landscape, are dr.ving up and being obliterated. This is due to the destruction of forests and other forms of vegetation. Trees at least equalize rain-fall; they furnish protection against violence of storms and severe winds. Trees appeal to the love of the beautiful. While older people ap- preciate the value of tree-planting, children can easily be taught it. Trees contribute to children's welfare at school: By furnishing harmless and pure pleasure; by contributing to the child's health; anything which helps to develop sound, wholesome bodies is at this time inexpressibly valuable. Trees furnish shelter in summer and winter, equaUzing heat and cold. Trees also ab- sorb n^ixious gases and help supply oxygen. They are educational, as they cultivate the senses of seeing, hearing and feeling. It is easier to learn by the sense of perception than from books. Aesthetic faculties would be educated, as in Nature we find the ideal of beauty. Pleasure health and education can be aided by teaching how to plant. Arbor day should be observed. If children plant their own trees in the school yard they will not injure them. Children learn the lesson that all worthy rewards are not obtained iramediatel.v— iu short, foresight. Improvement in Flowers. A few years ago the Carnation was much smaller, confined to a few shades of color, sh(!rt-stemmed, and in every way inferior to the same flower to-day. The Verbena, that fa\"orite bedding plant, that now forms a variegated carpet of almost every hue but golden was, when first brought into cultiva- tion, a small flower, small cluster, and only scar- let in color. And the fragrant double Tuberose was, at first, a very tall stock with a few scatter- ing single flowers; now the blossoms are double, much larger and numerous, with a much shorter stalk. So, also, the Hollyhock, that favorite of our mothers and grandmothers. Its tall stalk and scattered, mostl.v single flowers, has given place to a stalk less than a yard in height, crowded from base to summit with its double flowers of clear shades and beautiful forms. And the lovely Pansies we can grow from a packet of mixed seeds! Once they were only the little old-fashioned Johnny-jump-up. But the little daughter of the Earl of Tankerville determined to have in a bed every differently-marked Johnny-jump-upViolet that grew in her father's gardens. Seeds from her bed produced still other forms, colors and markings that attracted the attention of flower- lovers. Later English, French and German societies offered premiums for the best Pansies, as they began to be called. The improvement grew until this little flower has developed into an offspring clad in velvety-purple and gold, and mahogany, and crimson, blue, cream and coal black, pure white, and six times as large as the parent. And the Chrysanthmura. Many of us can remember when the purple and yellow only were known, and later a white one, which was considered very fine. To-day we have hundreds of varieties of every shade but blue and black, and with petals fringed, quilled, flat, twisted, long and short, broad and narrow, incurved and recurved, double, siagle.— Mrs. M. F. Stewart, before the Kati.< to, is the man who wdl come out best. Horticultural Shows— Rulesand Reg- ulations. [Frnm fhr Kansas State Fair Premium Schedvte.] Awarding Committees. The awarding com- mittees will be selectert from the best hor- ticulturists in this and adjoining states, with great care, but will not be made public until the (air. The awarding committee on fruits will report tlie varieties in each collec- tion to which they award premiums. Member's of awarding committees ai-e request- ed to report for duty on at 1 o'clock p. m., and any vacancies must be reported tf) the directfir in charge by the superintendent of the department wherein such occur, who shall fill such vacancies. When a majority of the \'iewing uon at the next meeting. Mr. Varnum Frost thought the date of sowing- seed was correct. He liked a stout and thrifty plant. He used superphosphate of lime around the plants at the first hoeing. A sheltered place will bring them early. The Boston Market was a good early variety, but the improved kind, used by the Budlongs, is better. He liked the Paragon for a late crop. Mr. Low, of Essex, said he did not like long plants, but when obliged to use them he laid them down and covered half the length or more. Dry gravel will produce blight and rot; he pre- ferred a good loam. The early varieties are all rather flat and shapeless; he liked the variety called ScoviUe's Hybrid. Beautifyingf Home Grounds. [BustacHS Schoenfclfl l>efore the Chantauqun Co. Horticultural Society.} No society, while professing to work for the advancement of horticultiue sliould exclude the ornamental for that which is termed the practical. What a mi.ssion (or this society, to help by plain directions and hints forthe cultivation of everything grown in the (ruit, vegetable and Hower gardens. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. '53 for tlu- planting and laying out of lawns and doDiyaifls. And what a piund pictnre a home will make with a well cut lawn, a few fine trees, neatly kept walks, shnilis and flower beds. Think of a eonntry with sueh homes, i)eepinjr from their groves on ripplinR streams, notencumbereil with siUtish fences, with sehool-house towers and Kleamini? church spires among them, nice roads h A Rntary Thermometer. OD either side with farm fields, vineyard.s. past- ures, orchards, woodlands and bounding hills. Tliese together would form a public park, which all of us might ride and walk in and enjoy. Is such a picture only possible in the mind of a vis- ionary onthusia.st? Let us encourage Village Improvement Societies, Arbor Da.v, et^'., and in a short time that which the most sanguine of us did not e.\pect will have been accomplished. Grass, trees, and flowers cost but very little and give dail.v returns in food for our eyes, seven montlis in the year, added with a few evergi'eens here and there all the year around. If we will carefully make our selection, bu.\' only good plants of stanilard sorts from reputiitjle firms near home, leave unheard of and high priced novelties and tree agents alone, we will find out that a dooryard can be made very attractive at all seasons and for many years for a small sum. Deciduous shrubs are one class that should be much employed. They transplant readily and grow rapidly in effectiveness. They should always be i>lauted in a fringing, irreguhir bordei-, some three or four feet apart, on the boundary line, so that the green sward may have an oppor- tunity to display its fullest charms. Dotted among the shrubs may be planted clum]is of Lilies and herbaceous plants. Near the house or at the intersection of the walks, a well idanted and well kept Coleus and (ieranium bed and your dooryard is complete. Among shrubs the Spinea Tliunbergii, with its white flt>wers and the rich, red Iilossoms of the Japan Quince, will appear on the first indication of the presence of spring: the Golden Bell is also very early and attractive. A little later Deutzia gracilis, double flowering Almond. Tartarian Honeysuckle,Lilacs and Wistarias will delight us. Then in June there are so many hardy, thrifty shrubs that we must beware of using too many flowering at that season, lest we find ourselves lacking tor room for late blooming varieties. I will name the double flowering Deutzia crenata, the Mock Oiange, White Fringe, Weigelias and Viburnum as good ones, not forgetting to find a place on the veranda for a Clematis .Jackmanii and a Climbing Hose. During July Spinvas Billardi and callosa, will bloom. In August and Sei>tember we have the Altheas in varieties in bloom. Hydrangea pani- culata grandiflora with its grand tru.^ses chang- ing continually fi'om white and pink, to purple and deepest crimson, will bloom till the snow comes, nor should we neglect the white Clethra, the yellow Hypericum and the Burning Bush. Of course there are still some others equally good. FROM VARIOUS SOURCES. Cabbage Caltare. Our method is as simple as it is reliable. When sowing seeds of early vegeta- bles for home use, we also drill in our early Cab- bage seed, and a few weeks or even months after- wards that of later kinds. The plants are thinned to stand the proper distance apart; and as we always leave the very thriftiest and most promis- ing plants in the rows, every one will form a solid head if the conditions are otherwise half- way favorable. The thinnings may be planted elsewhere, if so desired. The Drumhead Savoy seed has done exceptionally well this .season, every plant, whether in the original seed row or transplanted, forming a head; but the largest and best specimens were those grown where the .seed Wiis sown and had not suffered the check of transplanting. The same superiority of untrans- planted Cabbages was also noticed in every other instance.— Orchard and (Jarden. Barning Strawberry Beds in the Spring. The most thrift.\' bed I saw was where a spark from a passing train fired the mulch and burned it off in March — there was not a sign of rust, not a leaf perforated by insects, and the plants stood nearly a foot high, with dark glossy foliage and every sign of vigor. The eye could easily trace to a foot where the fire ran. Many growers practice and recommend burning over the beds at the close of the picking season, and as there are so many insect enemies to contend with, and prob- ably fungi, there is little doubt but it is an ex- cellent plan. I believe, however, that March burning would be better, and the only objection to it is that the berries are left without mulch or must be mulched again, but mulch can easily be supplied to a family bed. The advantage of spring burning is that it disposes of the enemies of the crop before they have any chance to do any damage. I recommend that each grower try burning a spot ne.\t spring and carefully note the result.— W. J. B., in N. Y. Tribune. A Botary Thermometer. This ingenious in- strument is described in La Nature. It is quite sensitive to small changes of temperature, and, if desired, registers the highest and lowest pf)ints reached in a given time, or draws automatically a curve on a sheet of paper, showing all the va- riations. It will also sound an electric bell when any desired temperature is attained. The details of its very simple mechanism are shown in the engraving. The main reservoir or bulb, a, bal- anced on a pivot, c, is filled with alcohol; while the curved tube, hh, into which it is drawn out, contains mercui'y. As the temperature rises, the alcohol expands, forcing the mercur.v along in the tube, and so (the mercury being heavier) changing the center of grartty as to cause the whole to revolve on the central pivot, c, to which it is attached. The metallic inde-v, h, which is placed at the end of the tube, thus indicates on the scale, U, every variation of temperature. Two e.xtra pointei's, d and e, are pushed in either direction by the index, ft, of the revohing tube, dud indicate the highest and lowest points reached in any given time. At k there may be an electric connection (wires shown at ?), which can be moved aUmg the scale and attached to any de- gree mark desired. This is then acted upon by the metallic pointer, /i, causing a bell to ring at any temperature to which it may be set. At m a piece of metal, carrying a pencil, u, is attached to the tube, and if a sheet of paper, moved by clockwork, is made to pass before it, a tracing will be made which will show all the variations of temperature during an.v gi\'en time. The sim- pUcity and cheapness of this instrument are also among its most important advantages. Dwarf PearB, What advantage is there in planting Dwarf Pears instead of standards, and which do we advi.se ? In answer, dwarfs begin to bear soonest, and are more within reach for gathering the fruit, can be more easily sprayed with poison to kill insects, occupy less space allowing more trees to the acre, and the fruit is less liable to be blown off from the low heads. The early bearing is commonly regarded as the leading advantage, but a few standartLs like the Bartlett, will bear early if a proper .selection is made. The drawbacks are, shorter lives, as we have seen standards 300 years old, but dwarfs rarely over ;J0 or 40 years. Dwarfs require care- ful selection, as there are but few soi-ts which succeed well propagated in this way, among which Augouleme is best, and nearly as good are Louise Bonne of Jersey, Diel, Boussock, and a few others. In some localities dwarfs have en- tirely failed: they should not therefore be planted to any extent, luitil a trial has been made, in any region. They require good cultivation and en- riching, and enough pruning to give vigorous shoots at least half a foot long. In some places they prove very profitable. —Country Gentleman. Protecting Vineyards from Spring Frosts. In the spring of 1MK7 many \'ineyards in Xorthern California were seriously injured by late frosts, and the Rural Califomian i)ublished a remedy for such a calamity in the future, which has lieen tried for se\'eral .sea.sons on a vineyard of 100 acres with greatsucce.ss. Thesystem briefly is to prune, leaving as many long canes as there are spurs desired, instead of cutting to form the spurs. The long canes reach out and o\'erhang theWne, protecting it until all clanger of fro.st is past. The lower buds will not swell if the canes are left, for the growth will Ix'from the ends of the canes. When the danger ()f frost is past, the canes that wen' left at the pruning are cut away and then the growth in that direction being chei'ked, the lower spur buds will swell aiul sprout. Wewould like to see this i)lan tried in this section of the country on vineyards that have heretofore been .subject to more or less injury from late spring frosts, and results rcjiorted later.— Vineyardist. Easy Asparagas. Soil, sandy loam: manured very hea\-ily, then iiloughed,turningthe manure • under: ploughed H to 10 inches deep. Furrows 3 feet apart and about 0 inches deep, in no case more than 7 inches: plants either one or two years from the seed, were placed in bottom of these fm-rows about Uy to IS inches apari, taking care to spread the roots in their natural positions: this is ver.v eas.v to do. Aftei* the plants were so placed the earth was drawn back into the furrows and ju-essed down with the feet, and the bed was finished. Since that time it has been kept free of weeds and grass, and every spring the tops have been cut ofl' and burned, a good coat of manure put on and dug under, using the common six- fined manure fork for the puipose, being care- ful not to disturb the roots of the plants. The result has been that since it came to its best, about three years after .setting, it has never once failed to yield a magnificent crop. We cut some from it the second year, lait not much. In cutting care should be taken to cut it clean as long as it is cut at all. As a market crop it is a profitable one until there is a surplus, and then I found it to be as near worthless as any crop we gi"ow. To my own family and vtsiting friends, it is one of the most delicious dishes that come from the gar- den, and it is rare that a large dish of it does not find its way to our table at least once each day from its first appearance in early spring until the season is nearly over, or until our second sowing of Peas are at their best. One thing more. The reason for leaving the tops on the beds without cutting until spring is, when the snow falls the tops catch and hold it. It remains there until it melts and is the best midch for the beds that we can have. It always leaves the ground in the best of order for early working, and the plants can be started some da.vs earlier in this way than by any other open ground method that I have ever fried.— J. M. Smith, in Farmers' Review. Draining Around the " Pot Holes." I have had .some experience in draining land, and can get around "pot holes" (sharp depressions in the midst of areas more or less even) without the use of an engine and i)nmp. I ne\'er go through these but go around them with the tile so that no water gets into the pond.oidy that which comes from the clouds. I send diagram. To persons that have no knowledge of using tiles I would say for this use large tiles. I never use 3-inch Mandiiiim Pot Holeii in Underdraiiiiiiy. nothing smaller than f-inch. An 8-inch tile with proper fall and well put in wiU carry all the water that falls on 40 acres. You can put in as many branches as you i)lea.se and the S-inch will carr.v off the water. 1 never made any money until I drained m.v land.— Corr. Ohio Farmer. Care of Window Plants. We have noticed that a lady friend of ours always has a charming lot of wind(>w plants, and is mf»re than usually successful in getting her plants to flower well. Her CaUas are sure to be boldly in flower early in the new year; her Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs almost as soon as the grcenhouseman's 154 POPULAR GARDENING. April, across the way. If we ask her what secret she possesses, she says she has none; put if she has no secret as she calls it, she studies the habits of her plants. For example, they occupy a sunny win- dow, and the curtain is, when drawn, back of the plants. The smaller ones are on brackets and shelves nearest the glass. The sides of the bays contain the larger plants, even out into the room, but only those that can stand partial light— such as India-rubber tree, Euonymous, a Palm and the like. Her theory is to water only when the soil shows signs of dryness, and then thoroughly, so the whole soil is soaked. Another thing, the water is given hot as one's hands can bear. This, she says, has a great tendency to push the flowers out when they are apt to lag. As syringing is out of the question without tiestroying paint or furniture, the leaves of all which have smooth surfaces ai-e sponged. This is a very important feature, and pays well. Every two weeks remove those which cannot be sponged to the bath-tub, and there treat them to a shower bath. Dust stops the pores of the plants. We are satisfied that her success is due to these minutiip. Another lady fnend has unbounded success with single specimen Begonias. These being the only plants grown, are moved from window to window as the sun goes from one to the other. At night they often occupy a conspicuous i>f>sition in the room. Wo suspect the secret here is that the plants grown being few in number, they have abundant breathing room, and can readily obtain all the light and air they can possibly make iise of, just as an isolated forest tree grows and as- sumes the most faultless shape, with liranches sweeping the ground. If this particular tree had to shart' its light and moisture with a lot (»f strug- gling brethren, it would have a naked stem and contorted branches.— Prairie Farmer. Vegetable Products on the Table. Boiled Sweet Potatoes. Choose Potatoes of iHiiform size, wash and boil twenty minutes; drain and lay in the oven, turning them several times to prevent burning, until they yield readily tlate or shallow pudding dish. Sprinkle it thickly with flour and pour in two or three large spoonfuls of molasses. Pare juicy sour Apples, hah'e thera and remove the cores. Place these halves in the dish as close together as possible. Sprinkle the top with sugar, a little nutmeg and small pieces of butter. Bake slowly until the Apples are done. Serve hot with sweet cream, and you will have a pie that rarely fails to please. Another way is to use a top crust and molasses for the sweetening. This too needs to be eaten with cream to be at its best.— Country Gentleman. Pineapple Fritters. Make a batter with half a pint of milk, two eggs, and sufficient flour to make it the consistency of thick cream. Have readj- a can of Pineapple— those containing a whole one are much the best. Cut off as many thin slices as you require, and place them into the batter. Drop them, with enough of the batter to quite cover them, into a frying-pan of boiling lard. When it is nicely crisp and brown, take them up and place on some paper on a dish in the oven. When drained pile on a very hot dish, and sift a little crushed sugar over the fritters. A little practice will enable you to fry three or four fritters at the same time. Do not stint the lard for frying; it should quite cover the fritters, and any left in the pan be set by for future use. HOUSE PLANTS. Bulbous Plants, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Lily of the Valley, auti of the smaller growing Daffudiis, if brought iu from the cold frames early in the mouth will, throughout the North, grow with great vigor in the window and be some time ahead of out^loor blooms. Callas. The best treatment after bloom is to with- hold water somewhat, and then after the weather comes off fairly warm remove them from the pots and plant in a rich bed of soil. Lift in August, remove the small bulblets and repot the old ones. They will drop their old leaves by this course, a matter of no concern. Camellias now. more than at any other season, need frequent syringing and sponging off of the leaves. Chrysanthemums. Care must be taken that they do not get pot-bound; their growth must be constant. For late plants cuttings may still be struck. Climbers. Such as cover the walls of buildings should iu general receive their annual pruning before the buds start. Roses to have the side shoots trimmed back to one or two buds. Those Clematis that llower early in the season should be pruned as suggested for Roses, but the summer and autumn bloomnig class {including Jaekmani)now so popular, should be pruned back to within a short distance of the siu-face of the soil, as this will induce strong side shoots from the base, and an abundance of flowers in season. Flowers should now be abundant In the windows. If b^-dding plants are to be bought from the florists, it is well to select some of these now. Keep them in the window for their bloom here until planting-out time. Fuchsias in bloom, aside from needing much water, are benefited by an occasional dose of weak liquid ma- nure. On shifting, see Heliotrope. Heliotrope. The beauty of this plant depends on never allowing the roots to become pot-bound; before tin's occurs shift. Large shifts suit these plants and some others, like Cinerarias, and so on, admirably. Mignonette should be sown where the plants are wanted, whether in pots or in the garden, as few kinds of flowers transplant so badly. Oleanders of small size do better for being bedded out for the summer, taking them from the pots. Petunias, If old plants have grown unshapely, a thorough cutting in now will improve them much in the course of six weeks or two months. Propagation may now be going on with many kinds of plants for stock to bloom next winter. Window Boxes. The most satisfactory boxes for summer use are such as are stocked iu May with plants of considerable size that have been earlier brought aloug in good shape by due repotting. This is a hint for now shifting up a lot of plants for that purpose. LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. Annuals. Half hardy and tender sorts may be started under glass, or in a sunny spot that is sheltered from the wind by buildings, and which may be sheltered by mats or shutters in cool or frosty nights. Hardy kinds may be sown iu the open air. See Seed Sowing. Bedding Plants of all kinds are much better off to be brought on in hot-bedii for the last six weeks before phuitiug. Then iu warm days the glass may be wholly removed, and this will tend directly to the making of strong, robust plants. Cold frame plants, such as Carnations, Violets, Roses, etc., should now be hardened off by much exposure. Evergreens may be planted some weeks later than is well for deciduous trees. They should be pruned at transplanting, the same as any other kinds. Hardy Bulbs. Beds of these should iu all cases be lightly raked over before the plants appear. Hedges may now receive their annual pruning. In staking trees bind them fast by means of a strip of duck or leather, lather than with a cord. A piece of such material brought around the tree and crossed on top of the stake, driving one or two nails through into the stake, is all that is needed. Lawn. Mow whenever the grass gets to be near two inches high. Mow carefully, that no uncut strips will ever be seen, and attend to having the gauge wheels elevated alike on both sides. Lilies, If to be planted, should have this done early. Fall is a better time, excepting for the old Candldum. which should be transplanted in August. Lobelia— the blue kind— as a bedding plant affords a rare color, but it does not remain handsome very long. ' It should be managed by getting up successive propa- gations, replacing the plants in the beds about every two months. Propagate by dlWslon. slips or from seed. Roses. Plant hardy ones as early as they can be pro- cured, and the soil is fit to receive them. Seed Sowing. This month ts the time for the early sowings of Annuals and other seeds over a large range of our country. We prefer sowing most things in drills, to sowing broadcast. Drills about an Inch deep should be opened in which the seed should be scattered quite thickly. A covering of fine earth should follow; it is a good plan to use some light mold that has been sifted for this purpose. Spat down the covering afterwards with the hoe or the back of a spade. Street trees should not be planted unless protected against the gnawing of horses by some kind of guard. Those made of slats or, better yet, woven wire fencing material wound around the trunks, are better than board guards, for injurious in.sects And a .safe retreat behind the latter. Tender Bulbs. Such asCanuas, Caladiums, Dahlias, etc., ought to be starting and getting into shape for planting. Gladiolus should be planted at intervals of three weeks until June 1st. Some authorities recom- mend doing early planting for Tuberoses, saying that they flower better if started while the soil is cool. Weeds have no place in a well-kept garden. Some kinds, like the Shepherd's Purse, Chickweed, and so on, start up, flower and seed very early; they should be speedily destroyed as soon as seen. Dandelions, Plan- tains.etc, make themselves at home in lawns If allowed, giving them an inferior look. Remedy: Cut with a short, strong-bladed knife, just below the crown. PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. Alternantheras. By dividing up the stock tm hand in pieces so small that each one has a bit of root, pot- ting separately and setting in a close frame rarely ad- mitting air (they love high heat), each one will make a fine plant for bedding out in six or eight weeks. Annuals sown early must not get crowded; trans- plant or thin out; straggling ones should be topped. Azaleas. Steadily increase the ventilation of the apartment occupied by these. The plants should now have been cut back, and free airing is essential to healthy wood and a- stocky growth. Carnations, if given a top dressing now, will repay the trouble by a great increase of bloom later. Climbers for summer, like German Ivy, Maurandya. etc., will be the better for cutting back now. Crowding at this season is a connnon foe to the well- doing of plants. Make hot-beds or frames to accom- modate the overplus until planting out time. Cuttings lately put in sand should be frequently ex- amined, and immediately that roots, however small, are present, they should go into pots. Fall Plants. Propagate for fall use, Alyssum, Helio- trope and any other plants thus needed. Ferns. Shift or renew the soil of those in pots; In doing so break up the old outside roots somewhat. Fuchsias. The plants require warmth, moisture and shade— the latter must not be too dense. Six weeks must elapse between the last stoppiug and the time they are wanted t<^) be in flower. Ivy Geraniums if cut back at once will get into fine shape for summer use by June 1st. Orchids. At this season keep up the moisture by sprinkling the paths and shutting up early. Any plants requiring repotting must be attended to as soon as In a growiug state. Shade from the suu. Roses are liable to be troubled with fly now: fumiga- tion is the simple and safe remedy. Shade Ughtly with whitewash, or with naphtha and whitelead, over Camellias, Azaleas, Fuchsias, Double Primroses, Caladiums, Callas, Fancy Coleus and Ger- aniums, Ferns and other plants liable to spot. Some- times a blister in the glass will cause a streak or spot. Spy it out and paint on the under side. Shift all subjects as they require more root room, for if active plants have their roots confined to insufflcient or poor soil, their vigor and beauty will be much im- paired. Use clean pots always; the reason why plants do better in new pots Is because the pores are unelogged. hence air has ready access to the roots, and this is wanted. Thoroughly washed old pots answer nearly as well as new ones. Stove Plants. Rapid growers, among these such as Gesnerias, Gloxinias and the like, should now most likely be shifted. If given bottom heat directly after- wards it will be a great help. Verbenas propagated the fore part of April will be early enough for making good bedding plants. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. '55 FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. Berries. Plant Raspberries In rows 5 feet apart and S feet In the row. Blackberries lu rows, 8 feet apart, and n feet lu the row. Strawberries may be set in rows 3 feet apart, and 12 Inches lu the row. The soil should be fcrtllf, butK'xid cultivation counts uiueh. Currants wouhl kIvc better satisfaction If not so generally sIlKhted. They repay very liberally for prun- ing, manuring and culture. Grapes. In planting young vines prune to two eyes. Manures. Wood ashes, where available, are the cheapest fei-tlllzor for fruit trees. In their absence, bone manure three parts, and muriate of jintash (Ger- man salts) of high grade, one part, have the strong en- dorsement of the Massachusetts Agricultural College. Old Orchards should be manured ami plowed, using lime and ashes. Quinces. In planting these trees tliey should be given a rich, mellow soil. Old trees may be materially beijeflted If the branches are carefully thinned out and a good dressing of well decayed manure is given over the surface of the roots. Strawberries cts, such as are most desirable. Cauliflower. A good crop can be looked for only on ground that is well enriched before planting. Celery, for main crop, should be sown early in April, in a nicely prepared seed bed In the open ground. Culture. Keep the soil betw-een plants and drill row.s frequently stirred to free them from weeds. Fleas on Plants. Watch the Tmnlp and Cabbage plants fill' these pests, and as soon as they show them- selves dust with Paris green or London purple mixed with flour or laud plaster, one part of the former to fifty of the latter. This Is the best remedy and one ap- plication usually suffices. Hot-beds. Give plenty of air in the day time; keep close at night by using mats, also when frost or wind threatens. For watering atthis season use water with the chill taken off. Onions. Use manure freely, or a good crop need not be expected. When large enough to weed, a top-dress- ing of wood ashes will help the ciop. Parsley may he sowed thinly in drills and then if covered with tiles or stones for about ten days, the seed will begin to show itself, instead of taking ascom- monly several weeks for its germination. Radishes. Sow two weeks apart for succession. Seed Sowing. Do not trust seeds of doubtful vitality, but test them tlrst. Count out two dozen seeds, sow In a flower pot or other vessel of soli, covering but lightly, and note what share comes up. Start m a well pre* pared seed bed such kinds as Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Celery, Endive, Kale, Kohl KabI, Lettuce and Parsley. When frosts are over plant Bush Beans, and start Lima Beans in sods in the hot-bed. Sweet Herbs. Look ahead to a supply for next win- ter, by sowing now for later trausplanting, Sage. Thyme and Sweet Marjoram. Summer Savory must grow where It Is sown. Sweet Potatoes. Start the.se toward the end of the month In the hot-beds for plants to be ready for plant- ing out by the first of June. Tomato plants that have been brought along in hot- beds or seed boxes, must be transplanted promptly to frames (using i)otH, boxes, or not, as you choose) before they become drawn In the least. Tools. Put each one In working order before the day It is called Into use. Wet land ought to be well drained, as it is always late in the spring before such is ready to work. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS. Cucumbers In frames. Continue to use Unlugs to keep them growing; If stable manure is scarce sonu- other material like grass may be used now Instead. Figs. In pots swelling up their fruit to be given liquid manure twice a week. Stop strong growing shoots at the ttfth leaf. Grapery. Where the Grapes of early vines are chang- ing color, air freely, leaving ventilators open a little at the top during the night. Keep the air rather dry to prevent shanking, but It is a mistake tt) maintain a parched atmosphere at this time; sprinkle the floor but withhold the syringe for the present. Where new varie- ties are started or old ones replanted, this Is a good time for planting. Attend to former directions con- cerning graperies. Lettuce. Some of the plants wintered over in cold frames may be transferred to hot-beds, where they will produce an earlier crop. Seed may be sown for suc- cession. The White Forcing Head and Tennlsball are excellent for forcing purposes. Peaches that are being forced will now be swelling fast, and the last thinning must Ijedone wlthoutdelay. Water thoroughly at the ronts and use nuiuure water freely till the fruit shows color. Syringe twice each day. Heat and air ai'e needed at the fruiting stage. Pines that show fruit should be given manure water, warm and weak. Before shutting up syrmge. Robust growth may be lnii- slmuld he paid fcu'sucii, anf carbolic acid and fresh lard— one-half ounce of the acid to a gill of lard. If the acid be not at hand, use whale oil. or failing in that, try salt«d lard, which can be found in every house.— Pi'actical P^arnier. Houdans. These fowls are suitable for clean quarters, and the chickens are as salable as any, considering their size, for the flesh is white, and the feet are flve-toed, resembling those of the Dorking. The top-knot «d' the Houdati is rather against the fowls bciiiu kept in dirty yards during the winter, for here in wet weather tliey often become covered with mud. Want of size is ap- parent in many strains of this breed. If these difficulties can be overcome. Houdans will answer, for they are good foragers, very fair layers, and the chickens are active and hardy fi'ora birth. The hens, however, do not sit, so incubators or birds of another variety must be provided for liatching i)urposcs. Plymouth Rocks are good all-round fowls, but are not con- sidered sueli n .1 layers as the Houdans, although much always depends upon the strain. Eggs for Hatching. It the rules given by an authority in France— where poultry matters re- ceive so much successful attention— were strictly followed, we should hear less ab(.ut addled Ggg:!^, chicks roming dead, tw too weak to break out of the shell when fully develoiicd. Pick out the eggs as soon aft^-r being laid as possible. This pre- vents the nrcdonged contact of the heat of a suc- cession ot laying hens, creating a prematui-e development of the germ in the egg, making it liable to perish when this heat is withdrawn. Reject all in any way misshapen, or surrounded with a circular ring, or having one end with an uneven or rough surface. The sooner eggs arc set. the more certainty of hatching, and the more quickly. Kggs, in order to be well kept for hatching purposes, ought to be turned ouce a day, thus keeping the yolk in the center, which is important. It being of greater spi-eilie gravity than the white or albumen, its ti-ndeney is to work through to the si«ie of the shell, and this injures it for hatching, tli'-ehieks being liable to corae out weakly and defonned. When eggs are received by cxpi-ess the paekagi- ought to Ix; opened and set in a (luii-t. airy phiee lor twentjr- four hours beffi. Cleaning Waste Pipes. How can I eleau such of crease and venli^rls without dltfKing them up ?— E. ti.B., St. L^»uis, M,K l\57. Ailing Begonia. My large Bej^onla nietalUca has always done well until this winter, now the leaves turn brown at the edges as soon as they open, and later drop. What Is the trouble?— I. V. C, Albany, Oregon. (oH. Preserving Grape Juice. Can you give a rule for preserving lirajK' juice for future use without fer- nuMitatiou, If a jM-rson had r>nly a bushel or so of the fruit for working up?— J. B. W., Charlton, Mass. tl5H. Gladiolus Query. What Is the difference be- tween Gladiolus types, Gandavensia and Raniosus? Are they equally large and efl'eetlve in bloom ?— J.L.B. (li'id. Sparrow Trap. Mine made after the recent pattern did not catch *eni, they wouldn't go In. Per- haps the hole was too small. Wilt others report, stating dimensions of sueh as have been effective?— J. S. A. lifil. Cold Storage House, (at What wnnUl be the best size and style of iiou'^e for hi>ldiiii,''M'"tori( hi bushels of fruit, and suitable for retarding Pearhes anaat experience in their free use would say not. Would they be better for orchard or meadow ?—G. J. K., Janesville, Wis. fiOG. Violet Culture. How should this plant be man- aged from first to last for winter flowers ? (ItiT. Forcing Lily of the Valley. How can this be done most proIltal)Iy.and how should pips be procured ? (itw. Forcing Asparagus I have an Asparagus bed the plants of which stand rathershallow. Would there be likely to be money in forcing the roots of such under the benches of a hot-house I contemplate building ? When should the roots be taken in and how to be treatfd ?— .T. W. S., Asbury, Md. i;fW. Plums, Free and Cling Stone. Of the follow- ing which are free and which cling stone: Miner, Wild Goose, Lombard, Maquoketa. iJe Soto ?— Subscrujeu. 670. Peach Stones. Where could five or ten bushels of these be procured for spring planting in New York State?— G. T. F.. Mount Dora. Florida. r.71. Bagging Grapes. What material Is used f<»r this ? If paper Ijags. then what size ?— Mrs. G. C. 672. Varnish for Rustic Work. Will you tell me the best article for this piu-pose and how made?— C. P. H r points on managing these, for I am not meeting with siu-cess ?— C. L.. IVinona Co., Mich. (W(). Primulas after Bloom. How should these plants be treattMi when the fic)wers are gone.— Mrs. S. C. L., Won-e.stcr i'o.. .Vit.ss. (1.S1. Root-grafting Various Trees. Is this method successful for the propagation of Plums. Quinces, Peaches, Pears, Nut-trees, etc.?— E. P. R., Sidtiey, Ohio. t58'. Laying out Steep Front Yard, Could you give a plan for my front yard 70 .\ S5 feet, and which Is .so steep towards tlie street that a straight walk would wash out?— Mrs. R. T. K., Lauderdale Co.. Ala. 156 POPULAR GARDENING. April, 683. Marechal Niel Rose-bud Decaying. The buds on my Marechal Nell In the greenhouse looked healthy for a time and then decayed. What Is the trouble t— A. D., Rochester, X. Y. 684. Acacia Culture. Any information on treating these after Ijloomlug and al.so on raising thenj from seed wouM be appreciated by AMiTEUB, Colnvibus, O. 6S5. Sweet Potatoes at the North. Can these be grown prolltablv at the North as a market crop, and how ?— .\. P. F.. Worcestt'f, Mass. 6,S6. Oleo Fragrans. My plant of this bloomed very freely in the fall, and since has done nothing. It be- came covered with white scale; leaves turned brown in patches and dropped off. I cut It back a little, washed thoroughly, etc., but very few new leaves form. What is the matter?— J. G. M. 687. August Giant Grape. Has the August Giant Grape-vine been fruited to any extent, and with what success? What is its character? Also Lady Washington Grape-vine?— A., Cincinnati, O. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 5711. Palms for Room Culture. Palms do not require any special preiiaration to fit them for room culture; they can lie grown in any room that is kept safe from frost, but if possible give them a temperate of from 55 to 60 degrees. As usually grown they are generally starved and given no opportunity t(j develop their tropical leafage, so I would strictly insist on their being given a more liberal treatment and every oppor- tunity to properly de^■elop themselves. They should be repotted annually and given a compost composed of two thirds fibrous loam and one third well decayed manure. In potting always use porous or soft baked pots, and let them be proportionate to the size of the plants, and see to it that they are well drained; if the pots are one-third filled with drainage it is none too much. Repot d uring the month of May, very carefully removing one-third of the old soil and replace in pots a size or two larger. In the summer they require partial shade and plenty of water, both overhead and at the roots. It is best to plunge them in a bed of coal ashes or cinders in order to pre\'ent the woriU'^ from entering the pots. Turn the pots occasionally. In winter the water supply should be more moderate, but when re- quired water thoroughly, as they should never be permitted to become dust dry. At all seasons give liquid manvire once a week, and this will cause them to acciiiire brightness of leafage, and frequently sponge ofi' the leaves very carefully with soap.v water, to remove dust dirt, etc., as well as to keep down all insect pests. They can be placed outside about the middle of Ma.v and brought inside about the middle of September, or as soon as the nights become cool and frost is expected. Palms rank among the most valuable of plants for the window garden, for if properly grown and cared for they will increase in size and value every year, and when they have be- come too large for the window garden they can be readily sold or exchanged for smaller speci- mens. The following are the most desirable va- rieties for the window garden. The.v are not expensixe sorts, but can be procured at a cost of from seventy-five cents to one dollar and a half each, according to the vaiiety and size of the plant. Areca lutescens, rubra and Verschaffeltii, Carludovica palmata, t'aryota urens, Chamicdora latifolia, Corypha Australis, Chaina^rops humibs and excelsa, Oycas revoluta, Jubea spectabilis, Kentia australis, Latania Bourbonica, Oreodoxa regia, Pandanus utilis, Phoenix dactylifera and reclinuta, Ptyohosperma Alexandriie, Seaforthia elegans. Sal»al Adansonii, Thrinax argentea and elegans, and Washingtonia filifera.— r. E. P. .5**4. Unhealthy Geraniums, If your jilantsare all of one variety, or ha\'e all been propagated from one plant, throw all away, and start with a fresh stock. Or you may be giving them unsuit- able treatment. Geraniums require for their well doing, a light, suimy situation, a tempera- ture of from 45° to 50', and plenty of air. Don't over-pot them, as they will not bloom well until the pots are well filled with roots, then liquid manure at times will be of decided beneflt,--C.E.P. 599. Fertilizers for Strawberries. A heavy dressing of wood ashes could be applied at once on the top of the mulch with decided benefit to the crop. Or remove the mulch and spread Blood and Bone Fertilizer between the plants and work it in as thoroughly as possible. Apply at the rate of one hundred pounds per acre. If this is the first crop and the ground was properly ]>repared there should be no occasion for ajjply- ing manure at this time of the year.— C. E. P. liOl. Pears and Plums for Iowa, Three early Pears, Mainiing's Elizabeth, Osband's .Summer, and liarflett. Tlucc early Plums, Golden Gage, Jetlerson, aii'en. If only a small piece of land, say 1 to 3 acres, and ha\ing a near and convenient market, small fruits, such as Strawberries, Raspberries, Grapes and Blackberries would pay best. If a larger tract, 5 to 10 acres, and a distant market. Apples and Peaches (assuming that Peaches succeed in Wayne Co.) would be recommended. Peaches could be planted between the Apples and pro- duce 5 to 10 annual crops before the growing Apple trees would necessitate their removal. In order to reap immediate returns it might be ad- visable to cultivate Strawberries and Raspberries among the orchard trees for 2 or 3 years. As to varieties, plant such as have proven best suited to your climate and locality, ih) Champion is among the earliest if not the earliest of Grapes, and though of poor (piality is profitable on ac- count of its earliness. Among the earl.v Grapes of good q^mlit.^•, Hartford Prolific, Moore's Early, Worden and Early Victor are probably the lead- ing varieties.— E. B. Engle. 638. Hen Manure for Grapes. It is not safe to use bam yard manure under Grape-vines when setting. A commercial fertilizer containing es- pecially potash and phosi)hate, etc., or wood ashes, or both, will pa.v well. One-half to a pint sprinkled over bottom of hole and covered well with 3 or 4 inches of surface soil before putting in the vine.— H. P. Van Dusen. 668. Forcing Asparagus. If you wish to get rid of the Asparagus roots any wa.v. lift and force them and get out of them what you can ; but if you wish to make money by growing Asparagus with the view of lifting and forcing it in winter, we fear you cannot do it. Asparagus roots under at least four years old are useless for forcing, and in order to lift these in good condi- tion and without seriously in.iuring the roots much labor is involved. Asparagus when forced does not respond as generously as when grown out-of-doors; after three or four cuttings the plants won't pay for keeping any longer, for they have little or no recuperati\e power. They are sensitive to heat, especiall.v bottom heat, and are therefore easily forced in the greenhouse or hot-bed, and as they don't need any light they are as well off under as on top of the stages. As- paragus may be forced from Xovember till Ajiril. Before lifting for forcing let the plants have at least two months' rest, that is, cut over the stems two months before you lift the roots. In lifting, plow away a deep furrow from each side of the rows, then prop — never cut— out the crowns. Bring these at once into the greenhouse and on a flat surface pack them together as closely as possible, working some fine dry soil between the roots and plants, and finish off with an inch deep of soil over the crowns. Water thoroughly. A brisk bottom heat gives " grass " in 5 to 6 weeks before Christmas, and in 3 or 4 weeks towards spring.— W. F. 675. Bark Lice. A strong solution of soft soap is the old and reliable remedy. Professor Cook has improved on this by the addition of crude carbolic acid, making the mixture as follows: One quart of soft soap to two gallons of water heated to the boiling point, when one pint of crude carbolic acid is added, stirring the solution well at the same time. This should be applied early in June, and again some months later, \vith a cloth or scrubbing brvish, to all afl'ected parts. Fir-tree oil is one of the most recent and highly praised remedies for aU species of Coccus. The oil is mixed with water at the rate of one fourth pint of the former to two and a half gallons of water and syringed over the plants about once a week. For strong-growing Dracenas, Crotons, etc., a somewhat larger proportion of the oil might be used. An application of fish brine has also proved effective, the oil with which it is charged doubtless penetrating the scale and kill- ing the eggs beneath. 679. Managing Pot Hydrangeas. These will flower well every year if they are well fed, liber- ally watered when growing, and if they get plenty of air and sunshine. At the close of au- tumn, when they cast their foliage, by no means allow them to remain dry at the roots, but water them when they need it. Early in January prune them back to within two eyes of the base of the shoots made the previous season, thinning out all weakly shoots which do not yield bloom, and 'lyhich deprive the stronger ones of light and nourishment. At that time they may be shifted, if so desiii'd, into larger pots, using good loam and some decayed manure. Give them a light position and plenty of air in fine weather, and remove to the open air when all danger of frost is over. Plants may be kept in the same pots for years, but they must have liquid manure when growing, and abunance of water in hot weather. —A. H. E. 614. Wasps and Bees. You will certainly need no protection against bees, as bees nerer inhire sound fruit. Wasps will puncture Grapes, etc., but with bees it is a physical impossibility. Their mandibles are not so constructed nor are they strong enough to be used in puncturing fruit. Numerous experiments have been tried, among the rest, one of putting the hives in an apart- ment and taking the bees' food away and making them fast for a few days at a time, and all the time exposing Grapes, etc,, but thr bees would not do any injury even imder thiw conditions. If fruit bursts or is Injured by the birds or wasps orsonirtliinn' else, the bee will soon suck all the juice, but that is an advantage rather than an injiu".\' to the grower as the sound fruit is apt to rot bv coming in contact with.such injured or by the jiiicc Mowing over the sound fruit. Investi- gate this matter carefully and you will find bees are friends, not enemies.— L. W. Ligty. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 157 68(1. Flams, Free and Cline Stone. Wild Goose, I'linjf; Miiii_'r, Sfini-L-Iinjr; Lombard, free; De Soto, said to Ix' free, liilt is not nvhto so; Sfuqiio- kct«, I don't knoH-.-.^. M. (1711. Peach Stones. Franklin Davis, Hichinond, Va., can supply the Peach stones, but if th<'y ha^•e been out of the ground all winter, they will not Krow unless severely scalded and left in soak some da.^•s; then cracked and the kernels ]ilanted is the only chance. S. HI. tits). Crabs for Stocks. I lune ne\er tried it, but cannot see why it should not answer well, as the Hewes crab is a healthy, hardy, lon^-li\-etl tree, and a fair frrowcr.— .'^. M. iver five years it would loose its head and a better one put onby jrrafting.— S.M. SSI. Mortgages and Frnit Culture. If you ha\'e had considerable practical experience in the cultivation of fruit, and ha\'e usuall.v succeeded in making the crops profitable, you could sjifely mortjirage your farm for a small amcnnit for the purpo.se you refer to. If you know but little about fruit culture, don't do anj thing of the kind until you learn the full details of the busi- ness from some one who has succeeded in making it pay.— r. E. P. •138. Preserving drape Juice. All that is needed is the processes applied to fruit canning, and this best of all beverages comes out pure and fresh, just as you open a can of Peaches or To- matoes. The natural juice may be directly heated and canned, or it may first be boiled down by a low degree of heat and then be diluted when opened. A small wine press or a jelley press will answer for pressing out the juice. .laT. Propagating Hydrangea paniculata. Cut- tings of the ripened wf>od may be prepared dur- ing the autumn months. Select such shoots as can be spared and cut them into pieces of about ti inches in length, then dibble them thickly into a well sheltered frame or else a bo.x of earth in the cellar, jiutting each cutting down far enough to leave about 2 inches above the surface. If put in rows, the cuttings may be 1 inch apart, leanng 2 inches between each row. Insert them firmly and give them a good watering, leaving the lights off till the superabundant moisture has dried up, when they should be replaced. The cuttings will callus and form roots in the spring. Then put in the open ground, choosing as shel- tered a spot as possible. Another way is to select the cutttings in summer when the shoots are young and growing. Take some 6-inch pots and half fill them with broken crocks, then rill them iiji with sandy soil, pressed moderately firm ; the .soil should be sifted through a sieve with a quar- ter of an inch mesh. The cuttings should be young and succulent shoots cut off at a length of from 4 inches to 6 inches, just removing the bot- tom leaves for the purpose of insertion. In order to j)re\ent fiagging, a small quantity only should Ix? cut off at a time, or it it be necessary to gather a large number, keep the bulk of them co\'ered up till wanted. Do not crowd them too much, otherwise the.v will damp off; and when finished give a thorough watering, enough to settle the soil well around them. Afterwards place them in a close frame till rooted, and see that it is really a close frame, otherwise the cuttings will flag, and when that takes ]ilace the.\' take much longer to root. The lights mu.\- be taken off for a snort time each morning in order to allow the cuttings to be examined and watered if necessary, but they must be replaced before the sun gets powerful, when a mat should be thrown over them, or even two if necessary. Thus treated the.v will soon root, when, if potted off at once, they will get nicel.v estabUsbed in their pots before winter, and in the following spring ma.v be planted out.— A. H. E. .593. Scraping Tree Bark. This is an excellent practice if it Ix* not overdone, for harsh .scraping in the spring is unnatural and often injurious. Obviously it is well, after the severity of winter is past, to gi\e the trees a good rubbing, and thus remove the rough bark and mo.ss which serves as a harlxir for insects. But scrai)ing down tn the quick and e.vpfising to the cold winds of early spring must result in injury. A moderatelv strong wiish of potash water f)r soap suds will assist in cleaning the trunk and large branches and in giving a bright green and healtliy appear- ance to the bai-k. but under generous culture this will sclfloin tie found necessary. The prac- tii-c of giving a heavy wash of caustic lime docs not meet w ith the approval of our most advanced orchardists. Wl. Soot-grafting Various Trees. There are nurserymen who make a success of root-grafting all these named, except nuts; I know of none that practice that. Plums will do well root-grafted on Peach if small ni it is off from, and the door-way into it was fornierely a window. I always had a fireat passion for a bay window, but as I had none, and could not get one built on in f;ood sliape, I re- sorted to this plan. M'ith having the lloor thus lower than the Hoor of the adjoiniiiK room, water can be used in every way plentifully. One of those dollar hand force pumps is .splendid to throw water or .spray over all the plants at one time, thus killiiiR some insects also. The heat is obtained from a stove set in the adjoining room near the doorway, and it warms the plant room sufficiently. The lire is kept up day and night, while on some cold nights, when the mercury is 40° below zero, we .set vessels of hot water in the plant room on the floor. It is always plenty warm at the top, although the roof is only one thickness of glass. There is a south and east window, both of which are double glass. These should not reach nearer the floor than 12 inches, tor the light that comes fully to the bottom is nearly wasted. The weather here ha.s been so severe, or snappish, that nearly everyone has lost their plants, while mine in this little room have escaped frost, and are looking as healthy and rugged as outdoor plants in the summer. I have had flowers all winter in bloom, and at present (Feb. 38th) have Callas, Roses, Stevia, Sweet Alyssum, Cro- cuses, Hyacinths and Ageratum. This last has blossomed freely in a small sized tin can, one that oysters came in, and it is very nice to pick up for cut flowers. Bulbs also do best in tin cans. H. M. K. Raising Horse-radish for Market. The New York Herald recently compiled some information upon the culture of this plant. It says that the consumption of Horse-radish has been largely increased within a few years past. Formerly it was eaten mainly with roast beef, but now it accompanies oysters almost universally. Hundreds of tons are annually sold. Horse-radish requires a deep, mellow, rich soil, so that the roots may be grown in one year large enough for sale, and the land then plowed out so as to clean out the myr- iads of small sprouts thiit would cover the soil with plants the succeeding year. A heavy dressing of tine manure should be plowed under in the spring, or coarse ma- nure in the fall, and replowed deep just be- fore planting, making the land deep and mellow. Then throw up into ridges three feet apart and plant the sets or pieces of root one foot apart along these ridges. Plant last of April to middle of May, and sow Radishes, Beets, Lettuce, etc., between. The additional crop will be no hindrance. The yield of good land is four to six tons per acre, though often less than half that much. It can't be grown well on poor or stony land, and there is no use in trying it. But it is profitable where there is a market for it. It is about as hard to kill out as Canada Thistle or Couch Grass. It is a good deal of work to i)rci)are the roots for sale. They must be trimmed with a knife, the large root.s assorted from the small, and then carefully washed with a scrubbing brush on a board so as to look attractive. 158 POPULAR GARDENING. April, A Cheap Berry Crate. E. W. REID, BRIDGEPORT, OHIO. I have examined many baskets and crates for marketing fruit and have come to the conclusion that the one I now use is the most complete and cheapest crate made. I do not think it is used outside of Belmont Co., Ohio. One small town in the county above puts out hundreds of thousands of bushels and this is the crate they use. Many may think what is the object in this cheap crate, and say I would rather have a better. Were you placed as we are you could see the advantages. In the first place it can be made at home in the shop on cold and wet days in the winter, and that much saved. It is a plain piece of work; anyone that can drive a nail straight can put it together, I have them sawed out at the planing mill in the winter when work is slack and can have it done right. I take a sample crate to the mill and say " Here, what will you saw out 100 for ? " They get so much and no more, and if they can't do it for that price, I can get some one that will. The strips used are made out of the waste pile mostly and they can afiford to do it cheap. I have just contracted for 100 bushel crates this past week, ready to nail together, for -f30. I will give full cost of everything. Lumber ready to nail for 100 bu $30.00 Nails for 100 bu 3.00 Leather for hinges and fastenings. . . 1.50 1 gross of buckles, (144) '. 80 1 man 4 da.vs, $1 per day to put to- gether 4.00 $39.30 The cost of these you will see is about 39)^ cents each; to buy them ready made would cost lue $0.5, besides the freight, which would add not less than $.5 or .*10. How many berry growers in the country to-day are pay- ing from $0.7.5 to .$1.25 each for crates that I would not trade for this 39 cent crate, and how many are paying from $5..50 to $9.00 per M for baskets when they can be bought for *1.75 and $3.00 in the flat and made at home in the winter! It is the little things that eat up the profits; let us take care of them. These last years I have lost many crates through carelessness of commission mer- chants and the express co.; had I paid *1 or .$1.25 for them there would have been no difference, so you see I am ahead that much. I will give dimensions of the crate, and then illustrate the Figure. Length. Width. Thickness. End 16 in. 11 in. 1 in. Lid 341^" 12 " i4" Strips for siding and bottom : B iJ4Hin. 3 in. -Hin. 4 S4^ " 2 " «" 3 341^ " m" H " In looking at Fig. 1, A .shows you the solid end with hand hole sawed with circular saw; 15, or lid, is worked on leather hinges and fastened with strap and buckle; C shows you three of the six strips on one side, 3 inches wide; D two of the four 2-inch wide; E is for the three bottom strips; F shows fastenings and hinges. A quart basket is about 3J< inches in height, which places the top above strip C and gives room for the slat and that no fi-uit can get out. The open- ing is about the middle of the basket in each tier, so that air can pass through every basket, and also at opening in bottom. Fig. No. 2 shows you the slat that goes between the baskets. Size: Length. Width. Thickness. 3 strips 32Hin. 1% in. ^ in. 1 strip 22H " 2H " H " 5raUs 11 " ?i " tapered to 14 at bottom. 1 in. G represents the two outside strips, H the middle; this allows the basket to rest on both and the air to pass from the bottom. I represents the rails; the outside ones only tapered on one side. The three inside rails, taper from % to Ji' so as not to mash the fruit, but to rest on edge of basket, as shown in Fig. 3. There are many advantages in this crate. One of the best is the slat; it is 1 inch high, it enables us to fill the baskets rounding full and will not mash. When package arrives at destination they are not down in the basket. All baskets are " topped " by pickers; what I mean by topped is that all berries are turned with stems down and nothing but the fruit is seen. For large berries this has no equal, for most other crates have from % to K inch rails, which is too light. Next is a hand tray for gathering baskets, as shown in Fig. 4; this is a very handy ar- rangement. The pickers are given their rows and not allowed to get out of them until finished; the man that gathers the baskets has full control of them. This tray holds 8 baskets, so he is enabled to carry one-half bushel each trip, and can see if any one is not picking clean, or that no loud talking is carried on while picking. Baskets are furnished pickers in rows, and when four are filled they receive a ticket, and baskets taken to packing house from sun. When 8 of these 4 quart tickets are held by picker they are exchanged for 1 bushel ticket. Should any tickets be lost by pickers it is their loss. When the ticket is given it is the same as money, and some one else will be likely to find it. All tickets are collected at night and account taken. They are paid every Saturday afternoon, if so desired by them. I pay !}{ cents per quart the season through for all kinds of berries, but only pay 1 cent at pay day; the }{ cent is kept until they finish, and if they quit before that time they get but 1 cent. I find this the only way that we can com- pel them to clean up the patches, and not get the "headache" when berries get scarce. "Amateur" Work and Stepping up Higher. JOHN M. STAHL, ADAMS CO., ILL. Doubtless not a few mechanics and other city workers would better their financial condition and live more independently were they to engage in market gardening or small fruit growing; and it isequally true that the writers who have been of late so often ad- vising the city worker to get out in the country and go to work on a few acres, do not know what they are talking about. Not one city worker of each twenty could accept or would do well to accept this advice. It requires information and training to be suc- cessful in rural occupations. Any tool can- not farm successfully these days, nor can he raise vegetables or fruits successfully or profitably, though he may have experience. True, some people, wide awake and earnest, may, by reading horticultural and garden- ing books and papers for some time, get such information that they can be successful without experience, but they are exceptions. Again, how is the mechanic, without money, or with a very little of it at the best, to get land and seeds and implements and manure to make a promising beginning. Fjg. 2 22" 1 II II II 1 1 II II II 1 / I J Fig. 3 f / \l « » B - — sS They may very likely rent the land; but many implements, a horse, and much manure are to be got, and how can they be got without money? It would be nice if every dependent, hand-to-mouth city worker could be a successful gardener, florist, or fruit grower; but this is uiore than Utopian. Nevertheless, there are many who live in villages and towns, and some who live in cities, that could not do lietter than take tip garden* ing as an nd- J ' '^ i • jvnct to their present work. He who has thirty feet square to spare from his back yard, need not lack vegetables of his own growing, at least. I knew a man, a boarding-house keeeper, to grow on a space scarcely larger than this, all the fresh vegetables required for nine people. Of course he kept up a succession and used manure lavishly. Let the mechanic who can, raise vegetables for his own family; likely when he has done this, he will find that he can do more with profit. If he has children, they can do most of the work, and will be all the healthier and happier for do- ing it. They would better do this than roam the streets and vacant lots. The curse of city or village life is "nothing for the children to do; " fiowers and vegetables will take it away. Great oaks from little acorns grow; and the largest business frequently had a small beginning. Of every ten millionaires in this country, nine were poor boys. I read yes- terday of Mr. Cozad, who, until he took a partner the first of the year, had the largest nurseries owned by one man west of the Mississippi, and the account said "he began business in a small way." Of course he did. That sounded natural. If he had begun in any other way it would have been unusual. Who can tell what the back-yard ^^llage gardeners may not grow into? The mechanic or accountant may not escape his present occupation, but may not his son? It is bet- to have the son a gardener than a knight of labor. And it is not impossible that in a few years the back-yard garden may have proved so profitable and pleasant that the mechanic goes outside the city and in due time sells what he formerly bought. It would be a change much for the better. This word " amateur " has grown trouble- some of late. Once I thought I knew its meaning, now I don't. But I believe the back-yard gardening in the town or village would be amatem- work; might be such after it had expanded over vacant lots, to the con- fusion of cows and goats. And it is the sort of amateur work that I like to see. For, while much rot and lush are written about the pleas- ures and profits of gardening by people who think Cucum- bers grow on trees,and while it is never play to make A Picking Stand. profit out of the earth, yet it would be better for the individual and for society if many of our city workers got out into the country. Foul air and beefy food have nuide them discontented. Give them the fresh air and vegetables and fruits of the country, and they would be contented, and more than negatively law abiding— positively law up- holding. Enough mechanics and book- keepers have found a better living and bet- ter health on truck patches to demonstrate that many more might be as they are. 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 159 THE COMPLETE GARDEN.* XIV. BY A WKLL-KNOWN HORTICULTURIST. SELECTION.S l)K H.VItDY ORNAMENTAL WOODY GROWTHS. Continued from page 112. Class T.—KiHtln of a dixtinct iiyiamidal Idnii itf ijroii'tli. HiHCH. Pyiamidiil, (Betula atha foMiffiata) b-c. Elm. Monumental. (U Innix campcslriit monumen- taliK) c. Dam pier's Pyramidal, {U. montaiia pyramUl- alin Dnnipteri) b. Dove's, ( U. Doiwi) B. Larch. Ameriean or Hackmatack, (Larir Americana) A. Locust. (Jlobc or Parasol Acacia, (Rohinla iurrmis) i). Oak. Pyramidal, (yiifriKs mhur f(uitiyiata)a. Poplar. Lorabardy, (Pupuluit fastiymta) A. EvEKOKEENS. Of many kinds. Class 8. — Khidx <'ieHiiiiK for hlootn ill tlw inrly siirhi'i inontha. TREES. A.MELANCiiiER, Snowy Mespilus. (Amelan- iliifr Botrijapiuin) B-E. Service- Berrj', {A. Canadcnsig) b-e. Ash. Floweiing, {Fia.rimin irrmig) c. BiBU-CHERRV. European, {Pi-unug paduiiX:. Therrv. Flowering, Double White, iPrunun avium ttore pUno) b. Siebold's Double flowering, (P. SiehiMi aUia plena) b. JcDUs Tree, or Red Bcd. American,(Cerc(« Canadcnfnj<) c. Japan, (T. Chtiiensis) f. JiAGNOLiA. Hall's Japan, (Magnolia sMtatn) f. Soulange's, (M. Smilangeanal c. Thompson's, (Af. Thompsimiana) F-D-.J. Showy-flowered, (M. speciosa) c. Peach. Double White-Flowering, (Prunxis mil- tiari^flore aWa plena) b-e. Double Rose flowering, (x'ar. rosea flnre pleno) b-e. Plum. Common Double-flowering, {Pmmw dnmcutiea flnre pleno) p. Virginian, or White Fringe. (Chionanlhus Virginica) c. shrubs. Almond. Double White-flowering, [Pnmun communis ftorc alba pleno) b-e. Double Rose-flowering, {var. fiore rosea pUno) • B-E. Dwarf Double White-flowering, (Pi-unugJap- oniea flore alha pleno) B-E. Dwarf Double Red-flowering, (var. ruhro plrno) B-E. Azalea. Smooth, (Azalea arhorea) h-g. Clamraj', or Swamp, (.4. ri'icosa) h. Purple, or Pinxter Flower, (A. inidiflora) h. Currant. Yellow-flowering, (Rihen aureum) a. Crimson-flowering, (R. saiiguincuni) a. Double Crimson flowering, (var. flore pleno)a. Daphne. Mezeron or Common, (Daphne Mez- eruin) H. White flowering, (var. flore aihal H. Cneorum, (Cnconim) h. Doo-wooD. White flowering, (Gomus floritla) c. Round-leaved, (C. crreiiiata) a. Exochokda. Cirandiflora g. Koiusythia, or Golden Bell. Fortune's, (For- si/thia F'orhnifH) G. Viridi8.«inia, (F. viridinsima) o. Honeysuckle, OR Tartarian Bcsh in assort- ment, (Loniccra Tartariea) e. English Fly, (L. Xylosteiim) h. Japan Quince. Scarlet, in variety, (Pifntu) g. Lilac in variety, (Surinm) f- Plum. Double-flowering, (Pnmus triUiba) a. Snowdrop.or Silver BellTree. Four-winged, (Haltxia telraptera) f. Spir^a. Double flowering Plum-lea ved,(SpirfEa l/ninifolia) a. Thunberg's,4.S. Thunhergii) h. Nicondert's {,S. Tficandeiii) h. Tamarisk, .\fbican. (Tamarix Africana) e. Viburnum. Rough-leaved, (virbumum ruyusa)a. Lantana-leaved or Way-faring Tree, (V. 1am- taiwide*) a. Class 9.— Kind* conxpiciions for lihioin— ftou-irinrj in June. trees. Apple. Garland flowering, (Pyrug malus coron- aria odorata) b-c. • Copyright, 1837, Popular Gardening Publishing Co. Chinese Double Rose flowering, (P. nwUrm speetabilis) b-c. Double flowering, (P. maltui baccaia carneo- plenn) b-c. Buckeye. Red, (,E»citii<« Pavia rubra} a. carnea superba, (^ earnea suprrba) c-D. Long Raceraed, (.IS pamfl his residence in Buffalo, first to he at the very helm of affairs in the publication oiBce during the critical ijeriod of founding the jouinai; sec- ond, to for a si)ell mintrle somewhat freely among retail consumei"S instead of as always before among producers of horticultural products, and lastly he desired time in which to select a new fruit farm and garden, properly located, and which might be conducted in the interests of American hoi-ticulture in general, and of the readei'S of this journal in particular. The time for making a change from the basis referred to has now arrived and the conductor takes pleasure in stating that a new and most desirable faim has recently been chosen and negotiated for by him.and at this writing the transfer is in progress. This farm, which shall iirobably be known as the Niagara Experimental Grounds, is located in that most famous fruit section, Niagara Co., N. Y., La Salle post office, and in the very midst of num- erous fruit farms, market gardens, evaporating establishments, etc. Its site is one-half mile from Niagara River on the banks of an arm of said liver, hence the name " Woodbanks," and five miles above the great cataract. At this late hour, before the May issue is printed, we have neither space nor time to go into particulars concerning the place and its future; this infor- mation will keep until next month. Sufficient to say that here the editor will live and here— being but .3.5 minutes ride from the Buffalo office— he will jointly conduct the journal and manage the farm in the interest, and as he believes, to the great profit of all readers. Forcing Rhubarb and Asparagus. PETER HENDERSON. JERSEY CITV HEIGHTS, N. J. In these days of low prices for nearly all horticultural products, it behooves both the florist and track grower to use every means to help out the unfortunate condition of affairs; a condition brought about in the florist's department, particularly in grow- ing cut flowers for market in the vicinity of large cities, by over-production, while in the frtiit and vegetable department in the past ten years T think the depreciation in price is undoubtedly due to the immense areas now cultivated in the Southern States, and that these products are shipped to New York and other large cities about three or four weeks before the local crop is ready, thus blunting the edge of the appetite, so that when our home grown crops of fruits or vegetables come in they are less valued. They are now grown to such an extent, that it is doubtful if the prices realized average much more than at the North, but labor in the South costs as yet but about one-half its cost at the North, and land probably not one tenth as much as it does in the vicinity of New York, Philadelphia, and Boston, where nearly all market gardeners yet pay S.'MI.OO per acre rent per annum, and in many cases without a lease. But be it as it may, the fact remains that the growing of fruits and vegetables in the South has seriously dam- aged the Northern growers whose main re- liance to make ends meet now is in cultiva- ting under glass, either by the use of hot- beds, cold-frames or greenhouses, and it is the adaptation of these to the culture of Rhubarb and Asparagus to which I will now refer. Al)out the first week in April I happened to call on an old market gardener, who that day had .pist begun to make his lirst pulling of Rhubarb from hot-beds, which had been put down about thirty days befoi'e. It was then selling, he said, at Al.lXl per tjunch, and he wa.s getting lifteen bunches from each of his 8 X .5 feet sashes. Asparagus, he claimed, paid even better. Now, although hot-beds will answer evei-y purpose for forcing Rhubarb and Asparagus, it is short-sighted economy to use them at this day for such purposes. The modern greenhouse, 20 feet wide, heated by a flue is even better than ahot-bed,and when heated by steam or hot water is infinitely better, because you can use and control the green- house in all weathers, and above all, you can luake it produce a double crop by grow- ing Lettuce, Radishes, or flowering plants, if so desired im the top of the benches, while Rhubarb and Asparagus can be grown under the benches, as they reqviire no li.ght. The main reason why the forcing of Rhu- biirb and Aspanigus is profitable, is that it requires the foresight of some years of preparation before the roots are large enough to force. If to be done on a large scale, the cheapest way to go at it is to sow the seed (both of Rhubarb and Asparagus) on well enriched and deeply cultivated land; sow rather thickly in rows about three feet apart and thin the young plants out the first sea- ,son to three or four inches, next sea.son thin out again, so that the plants will stand fif- teen inches apart in the rows. In three or four years from the time of sowing, accord- ing to the quality of the land, the roots will be large enough to force, but in lifting them up, only every other plant should lie taken, which will then leave the plants standing thirty inches apart in the rows, and three feet between. This space will be none too much for the full development of the re- maining roots, as the larger they are, the more numerous and strong will the roots of the Rhubarb and the shoots of the Aspara- gus be. Of course they must be dug from the ground before the severe weather sets in in the fall, in this latitude not later than the end of November, but as they should not be taken in to force until .lanuary, they must be placed in some dry and sheltered place, and covered completely with twelve or fif- teen inches of leaves, which will be sufficient to exclude frost from the roots until the time of starting them in heat force. This may be begun about January 1st. all that is nec- essary being to .iam the roots as close to- gether as possible on the damp flooring under the greenhouse benches. It Ls not necessary to shake any soil over them, if the roots are closely packed together, and they are not likely to need water except such of them as are near to flue or pipes. The fli-st lot, put in .lanuary last, will be ready by February 1.5th, if the temperature has averaged TO degrees. This crop can be gathered in about two weeks, so that the roots can be taken out and thrown away (as after forcing, they are of little value), and the space filled up again with the roots from outside. This second crop, if put in March 1st, will be marketable from the .5th to the 15th of Api-il, at which time forced Rhubarb and Asparagus u.sually sells higher than in Febniary. It will be seen that the main expense in Rhubarb and Asparagus forcing is to keep up the supply of the roots grown in the open ground. To do that, new sowings must be made every year and the whole process of growing tlie plants to the forcing size gone through as already described. When an abundance of strong roots of Rhubarb or Asparagus can be grown at a moderate co.st. where land is cheap, it must I for a long time continue to be a most profit- l62 POPULAR GARDENING. May, able crop, if gone into in a thorough manner. No slipshod worlv will do; the care of the young seedlings, the weeding and cultiva- ting, must be continued year after year, until the roots get to the forcing size. This is the sole reason why the crop is so unfail- ingly profitable, because not one grower in one hundred can afford to wait, or has the patience to do so. Paper shield for protecting i'oung Plants. Of course, your amateur readers can apply the same instructions given for a market crop for what might be wanted for private use, and even if no greenhouse is at hand, a warm cellar with a furnace in it will answer just as well as a greenhouse. In such cases, it will be more convenient to pack the roots closely In boxes, and sift enough of fine soil or sand over the roots to fill up the interstices, as they will dry quicker in boxes in a cellar than on the damp floors under greenhouse benches. It is not very easy to get exactly at what a greenhouse forced with Rhubarb or Aspara- gus will pay per square foot, as, of course, much depends on where it is sold, and the quality of the crop. I think it is safe to say that this crop forced even under thebenches will give an average of seventy-five cents per square foot of space, which, if two crops are taken, will make SI. .50 per square foot. Now, when it is known that few florists or market gardeners average more than seventy-five cents per square foot off their greenhouse surface devoted to flowering plants, it can be easily seen how profitable the forcing of Rhubarb and Asparagus, at the present prices, really is. And as before said, the reason for this unusual price is assignable to nothing else than the fact of the necessary preparation before the roots for forcing can be obtained. Protection to Young Plants. W. p. WARING, BELKNAP CO., N. H. For several years I have employed ati in- expensive device for protecting young plants from chilly winds, and especially those of Cucumbers from the attacks of beetles and bugs at a time when the plants are yet too young and weak to withstand their ravages. This consists of a paper shield of the form shown in the sketch, and made by myself after the pattern also shown. To make these shields any kind of cheap, stiff paper answers. The pattern here shown is enlarged so that the section marked c, which forms the sloping end, is three by four inches in size, although any other di- mensions may be adopted. For cutting out the papers a form made of a thin board is employed, and then the preparing of a large number of papers becomes a smjiU matter. The shape is such that there is little wastage of material . Tlie letters which appear in the two cuts indicating the parts of the shield both in the flat and as finished show how the paper is to be folded. A pin or thorn serves to keep the box together, while two stones or some loose earth laid on the flaps (c) prevent the wind from disturbing its position. The Choicer Water Lilies and Their Culture. GEO. RICHARDSON, TRUMBULL CO., OHIO. Most flower lovers who have heard of the rare aquatics imported from Egypt, Japan and China would no doubt be pleased to learn how they flourish in this country, and especially as regards their hardiness. Some kinds, its is true, are only suitable for green- house culture, but others of the first intro- ductions have proved to be perfectly hardy. When we speak of an aquatic being hardy, we do not, however, mean that it wiU stand actual freezing, but if placed in the water below the reach of frost it will endure the winter. I will describe only such as I have in my own ponds, and which have been thoroughly proved as regards to hardiness. I have no greenhouse and my ponds are only supplied with surface water, and, of course, rise and fall according to freshet or drought. And in this part of Ohio, the winters are very severe, ice forming on my ponds last winter to the depth of fourteen inches. The Nelumblums I will take up first. These should be planted in very soft ground in about one foot of water, and like all aquatics, the richer the ground the better. They are rapid growing plants of a rambling nature, and soon spread over a small pond. The roots burrow very deep in the ground, and this prevents their being injured by cold. The flowers rise two or three feet above the water, and when fully expanded are about the size of a common dinner plate, but some- times much larger. The Sacred Lotus {Nelumbium speciosum). This, taking it all in all, is the most desira- ble one of all the family. It is one of the most profuse bloomers; a single root planted in the spring will produce from twenty to fifty flowers the first summer, and that is a very small per cent of what it will produce the second summer. They are a bright pink and present something very fascinating in their noble forms. They commence to bloom about the first of July, and continue to bloom till late in October. The first frosts seem to have little effect on them, and in fact, some heavy enough to kill all other flowers do not prevent the Nelumbiums from continuing to bloom. The Japanese Nelumbiums are the .same as the above, except that they are not such good bloomers, they are of various shades of pink, and are thought by many to be more lovely thanN. speciosum. The White Lotus {Nelumbinm nucifcnim rose i(?(i) does not do well for me, bvit .some claim it to be the finest of the whole family. Turning to Nymphasas,— of which the common white Water Lily {N. odomta), is the most common native form,— these should be planted in about two feet of water. The flowers and leaves float on the surface. Nymixea roaca is the pink Water Lily, and this is undisputed the queen of the fam- ily. It is one of the greatest of bloomers, of a deep pink color, much larger than any of the white kinds, and is noted for its delicious fragrance. There is a pink Lily that grows wild in the Southern States, but it is odorless and inferior to this the true rosea. NyinphiK'i-ate amdUMt lit stable manure. After the trees show the dise;isc, the best course is to remove and burn the affected branches, making the cut a foot or so below the lowest discolored bark. If the prevalence ot the disease amounts to a severe epidemic some trees will be entirely lost, notwithstanding the greatest vigilance, and the careful cultivator will at once replace them with new stock." We clip the above from the pen of Dr. Arthur, (jeneva, N. Y., from the Rural and Workman. We have both grown in grass and cultivated, trimmed and left un- trimmed, yet on all the dreaded disease has done its work, and the best remedy we have found is to slit the bark on one side of limb and body to the ground as quick as it makes its appearance. Oiling the tree with pure linseed oil is also an excellent preven- tion. The plan of growing short bodies and low headed trees, and having two or three bodies, is recommended by Ulster county growers, so that if one part of the tree is ruined another will be left. COMMENTS BY READERS. A department to ivhich all are invited to send notes of experience and observation concerning topics that re- cently have been treated on in this Journal. Many such contributions monthly would be weU:ome. Growing Early Tomatoes. Geo. Summey's manner of growing Early Tomatoes is similar to my way.only I prefer to transplant first time into flats; and second time I use one quart tin cans, with top unsoldered and taken off, and a few holes punched in the bottom for drainage; prefer them to pots or boxes, for there is more room for the roots, and when transplanting to the field there is no danger of breakage.and the same cans can be used for years. My best early so far is the Improved Alpha; it never rots.— >4. M. Nichols, Licliing Co., Ohio. Early Pie Plant. This connecting link be- tween Apples and Currants is anxiously looked for by many a housewife in spring, but it is often two or three weeks later than it should be from being located in a shaded or neglected corner where the ground does not thaw out, or warm up quickly. It should have the warmest, sunniest place in the garden, and be protected from the north by a close fence or building. If the plants are fully exposed to the sun, as they should be, covering the ground ivlth a thin layer of soot, or black muck, will help the soil to warm up quickly. As a rule, Pie-plant is not divided and trans- planted often enough, and becomes in conse- quence dwarfed and slender, because the roots cannot extend as rapidly as the crowns multiply. Transplanting in the spring causes the loss of a year's use, but it can be taken up and di\ ided in August and reset in a new spot, and the fol- lowing spring will produce fine large pie timber. To those who like to watch the development of seedlings, and their variation from each other, the growing of pie-plant from seed affords a very interesting experiment. If the seed is sown in very rich ground and properly tended, the young plants will grow until frost, but show a great difference in vigor and habit. Some will have stout stems and leaves nearly a foot long, others less. In October the young plants should be transplanted into a row in a sunny place and mulched heavily with leaves so the groimd will not freeze. Some of the rankest will do to cut from to a limited extent the following spring. All should be allowed to grow until the third summer, when those plants showing the best com- bination ot earliness, flavor and vigor, can be divided and transplanted tor future use, while the others may be dug up and thrown away.— L. B. Pierce, Summit Co., Ohio. A Hardy Begonia. Has Mr. Falconer ever tried the hardiness of B. ilincohir't I have culti- \ated this species for many yeai-s and regard it as one ot the best of the genus. The leaves attain a length of eight inches, with a breadth of six; they 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 165 Fi'y. 1. Imiiriiml Kiiiffcn System (if Tralniiiy IlliKtiatcd. are of a bronzy-green color with deep crimson veins, and are very beautiful, especially when the sun is shiniuR through them. I plant the tuber.s in the shade of an Apple tree, where their foliage would make them worth cultivation if they never bore a flower. In August each plant producci a large loose cluster of delicate pink flowers, of good size and lasting some time in full beaut.v. I t«ke them up in October for reasons stated in the note on Galtonia candicans, but I have often left a few in the ground, entirel.v un- protected, and these have always stai-ted well the following May. 1 believe that, by using this species as one parent and B. Pearci, Veitcbi or racemifiora for the other, a race of tulxTous varieties might be produced which, with a co\er- ing of leaves, would survive any winter we are likely to have in the latitude of Boston. Persimmons. Perhaps our native Persimmon hius been subjected to cultivation, if so I have not heard of any results. Vet the following would seem turs, and the con.«ei|uence is that the circulatory iluets have all iK'come so closed that the vine no longer bears nnich fruit. It did well and bore good crojis for four or five yeais. Its usefulness in its present condition is at an end. I consider this about our worst s.vstem of trimming. On this vine there is a spur, not shown clearly in the engraving, from a cane that fortunately pushed out at the bot- tom of the vine from an adventitious bud. This is exactly what I ha^•e lieen waiting for and shall allow to grow un- checked, and next fall if I get wood enough shall saw the oM vine all off just above thisspur. If thisbott-omspurhad not so fortunately appeared I should have cut off the right hand arm last fall and left a cane upon the first spur to lie bent down and .su|iply its place. This would usually cau.se a cane to pu.=h near the bottom, but if the <:ane had not appeared I should have cut off the left arm in the same way a year later, and again waited for a simrfrcmi the bottom to form a new vine and which I will then train upon the re- newal system; thus changing from one syst<'m to the f)ther. OiM' of the great facts to be observed in this double arm system of pruning is that it cuts off all the cvirrent year's growth except the spurs. This is too violent a change on the vine's econ- omies; all the activities of the vine are confined to these spurs, the old wood contributing nothing but a channel for the work, while the renewal system gives the vine from six to eighteen or more feet of new wood. This the vines greatly appreciate, as shown by their increased crop. 2. Horiz^mtat Arm Stintrnt sliowinu etonontcd «pHr.s on an nUl riiif. Profitable Potatoes. GRANVILLE COWING, DELAWARE CO., IND. Among novelties in Potatoes, some of the very best ai-e Green Mountain, Summit, Everitt, State of Maine and Empire State. Of many hundred varieties tested on the Rural New Yorker's expe- rimental grounds, the first two named proved most profiuctive— Green Mountain standing high- est. On my soil Empire State exceeded all others in productiveness, and next to it in that respect stood Summit and Everitt. In shafie the tubers of Green Mountain are o\al, slightl.i' flattened, in size large U> very large, skin white, very handsome and of good (luality. State of Maine resembles Green Moun- tain in every respect except that the tubers are more round. Roth mature in August and are long keepers. Summit originated in Northern Ohio, where it is fast becoming verj- popular. Tubers long, oval, skin buff, eyes large and but few, from medium to large size and of best qualit.v. A most productive and desirable \'ariety. While on my grounds Empire State i)roved to be a stronger grower and more productive than any other variety, it exhibited a tendency to lot and its tubers were not quite as handsome as those of the other varieties I have named. In general appearance it resembles Burbank, but a>'erages much larger; skin white, qualit.v good, and matiM'es in September. Everitt is the most productive early Potato I have ever tested. It is large, smooth and handsome, of good quality and matures with Early Rose. Early Pearl, Early Maine and Pearl of Savo.v are all of the Early Rose type, smooth and beautiful and in ever.v wa.y desirable. Of older \ai'ieties for the main crop I ha\'e found none bett<'r than Lee's Favorite, Earl.y Ohio, Magnum Itonum and Jordan's Prolific. Lee's Fa\"orite is more producti\'e than Early Ohio and equal to it in ever.v other respect. The selection of pure seed of the best varieties for planting would probabl.i' double the Potato crop of this country without enlarging the area. i66 POPULAR GARDENING. May. Talks By An Illinois Cultivator. T(iMATi) Training. Mr. Chenoworth, of Davenport, Iowa, succeeded the past season in raising three Tomato vines on trellises to the height of seventeen feet. One was a red Trophy, the others Golden Plum. They made an immense crop. Mr. C. Is sure he can raise vines next year to a height of twenty-tive feet. This is not unlike seeing how much milk material may be crammed through a Hoist ein or a .Jersey in a year. Of themselves, both have little practical value beyond showing in the one case the capabil- ities of animals, and stimulating the mass of dairymen to better feeding, better breed- ing and better care. In the other what may be done with Tomatoes and all vegetables. A Tomato vine trained on a trellis makes "an immense crop," as Mr. C.'s did; and the trellis shows how we may double the yield and improve the quality of the Toma- toes without using more land or manure. The trellise stimulates the vine to greater growth and fruitfulness; and as the frixit is kept off the ground and better exposed to sun and air, it ripens more nicely and is kept clean and bright. When I went away from home to school I had never heard of trellising Tomato vines. The boarding house keeper into whose power I put my digestive organs, raised all the veg- etables used by a dozen people on a spot 40 by .50 feet. Notwithstanding the usual slurs on boarding house tables, we had good board— plenty of vegetables. That man succeeded, not because he starved us, but because he was the best gardener on a small scale I have ever seen. He manured liberally and got four crops per season off some of the land. His Tomato vines clam- bered to the top of trellises ten and twelve feet high, and made such yields as I had never dreamed possible. That man showed me the capabilities of gardening, and to him I owe my subsequent interest in vegetables and small fruits. Tools. There are two classes of garden- ers— those who expend too much for tools and those who do not expend enough. Of course the rule is to buy all that will save in labor the amount of their cost, or make that amount through better crops; and to buy no more. But the application of the rule must be left to each individual, and therein lies all the trouble. I know three gardeners that do a respectable business that have not a wheel hoe! Now, I have always found a wheel hoe economical. I know of other gar- deners that have not a horse hoe. And then how many gardeners there are whose tools are always in bad condition, dull and rusty, broken, or on the point of breaking. Let me say that the margin of profits, except to a favored few, is so small that we cannot afford to buy less or more than the number of garden tools it is economical to have; or to begin the season with dull, rusty, rotten or broken tools. Straight Rows. If, after firming, there is one text that is worthy of being preached on again, it is to make straight, long rows. Short rows may be a necessity sometimes, but crooked rows never. One of the very best ways to widen the margin between in- come and outgo is to economize labor; and one of the best ways to economize labor is to make straight, long rows. The straighter the rows the more and better work can be done by horse power. If the rows are crooked it is impossible to get as near to each plant with the cultivator or hoe as when the rows are straight; and while the work is inferior, the eyes and muscles of the laborer are taxed much more. Of course the longer the rows, less time is lost by the horse in turning, and long rows economize ground. Strawberry Blo.ssoms. One of the things not highly important to know in itself, but which ignorance of leads into many grave errors, is that the blossoms of every variety of Strawberry have both stamens and pistils. Many, however, are not perfect. In some the stamens, in others the pistils are little more than rudimentary. Some suppose that either one set or the other of organs is miss- ing, or both are present well developed; that a variety is utterly incapable of fertilizing its own blossoms or the blossoms of another variety, or else is as capable as any other variety. The fact is that there are as many grades of capacity or incapacity as there are varieties. Of two varieties, each capable of fertilizing its own blossoms, one may have twice the pollen of the other; it will fertilize more perfectly its own blossoms, hence will produce fewer imperfect berries; and it will have more value as a sort to fertilize other varieties. I believe that the quality of the pollen has some influence, and I am fully convinced that the quantity of the pollen is of enough importance to be taken account of. In the animal world a vigorous sexual development is of much the more value in breeding; why not in the horticultural world ? Aside from this, the more pollen, it is cer- tain, the better the chances of full fertiliza- tion, the less the danger from mishaps. We get better results, usually, by using the Sucker State for fertilizing than by using any other variety. The Sucker State plant is virile, its blossoms are numerous and well developed, and furnish pollen abundantly. On the other hand. Crescent and Hovey's seedling are usually incapable of fertilizing their own blossoms, though very high cul- ture in both has developed normal vigorous stamens, — N, Y, L. Siberian Crab for Stock. A. G. TUTTLE, BARABOO, WIS, The grafting of the common Apple either oil the root of the Siberian Crab or the top, has for at least 2,5 years been experimented with in different parts of the country and proved a complete failure, Dr, Hoskins in the Maine report says that for 20 years trees have been sold in his neighborhood grafted on Crab roots, and he did not know of one successful orchard, and the man who now talks Crab stocks there does it at the risk of his neck. The Russian Scions from the Department sent to Minne- sota were mostly top worked on Crab, and proved a failure, I top worked 10,000 trees, mostly Transcendant, with Tetofski, I do not believe there is one of the. Tetofski grafts alive to-day, while the Tetofski top- worked on Duchess and grafted on the root of the common Apple are all in good condi- tion. The Tetofski top-worked on the Crabs was done about 20 years ago and the grafts grew from four to six or seven feet, and died ab(jut the same time, I worked many kinds of the common Apple on Crabs; most of them grew a few years and died. The Walbridge made the best union and a few of the orchard trees are still alive. Those tops worked in the Fanieuse at the same time are good, healthy trees. The Walbridge is getting some stir in its favor. It has borne good crops and has come through the severe winters better than any of the American sorts. In saving seeds from the cider mill for planting we are careful not to save any from pomace when there is any mixture iif Crabs, The seeds saved from the cider mill last season were from the Duchess and other Russian Apples, Hereafter we expect to use only stocks from seeds of Russians, Not that I think it necessary in order to grow good trees to use stocks from Russian seeds, tor I believe very little of the orchard killing is because of the tenderness of the common Apple stock. Give us trees that won't top-kill and we will protect the roots. Grafted on Crab roots or top worked on Crabs, the hardiest Russians top-kill. Fruit Bleaching Again. ,J, W. SMITH, M, D,, FLOYD CO., IOWA, In answer to the article favorable to bleach- ing evaporated fruit in the February issue I would ask, 1st, Is it a positive advantage e-xcept that the fruit is white — as white as sulphur or other decolorizing agent will make it, if you please, 2d, Do you say ,siii- phur prevents vermin attacking it or as soon and as readily? Perhaps you do not claim this but it has that tendency, as we know. The Chicago commission dealer referred to was looking to business, as I know they are famous for more than health, I am well acquainted with the class, and will say that what some commission dealers do not know in regard to adulteration and sophis- tication especially of food products is hardly worth knowing. As a practicing physician in New York and Iowa since 1S50 I trust that I am some wiser than I once was in regard to health matters. Neither have I in writing on this subject an axe of any nature to grind, I wrote the former article because I felt that the evaporating fruit people were being mis- lead by selfish, ignorant and perhaps un- scrupulous dealers. Within a few years past my family dis- covered such a change in dried fruits, Apples in particular, that we lost our former relish for the better qualities. We did not get at the cause for some time after the white evaporated sliced fruit appeared which the dealers described as "so nice," Finally in some specimens we plainly tasted the sul- phur, and with it observed a serious loss of the God given or created natural fruit flavor, I will not talk about sulphur as a medicine or blood pm-ifler, etc, as the writer of that article expresses it, preferring fruit as food and sulphur as a medicine or insect or life destroyer where needed as such, and preferring to make my omi selection as to manner of using sulphur or other bleaching agent that fruit evaporating men are now- unwise enough to use to please wholesale commission men. Better call a halt as soon as possible. If one man bleaches his fruit and it "takes" with the dealers and with cooks who know no better, the evil is bound to spread until something is done to check it. The Ben Davis Apple. Z. C, FAIRBANKS. GRAND TRAVERSE CO,, MICH, This Apple has been both as highly ex- tolled as an Apple well could be, and most severely condemned. In one section it has been credited with one class of qualities, iu other sections with the most perfect char- acteristic in some other respect, and as bit- terly condemned for total absence of quality for which in others it has been extolled. In this, the Grand Traverse fruit region of Michigan, it has been condemned as minus nearly every characteristic of a good Apple, except that of keeping. Very many claim that they had just as leave chew a piece of sole leather as a Ben Davis Apple, so far as the appetizing pleasure received, yet the Apple possessed excellent keeping quality. That this Apple can be barreled when picked and laid aside until the following June or .July with scarcely a probability of a single decayed or specked Apple has often lieen claimed, but this year its characteristics in this respect have materially changed with us, Jjast week, finding a barrel of them in our cellar showing evidence of decay, in overhauling it we found at least >-»' either wholly decayed or commencing to decay. But there seemed to be an improvement in quality over former years. As a merchant said: It is not a bad Apple; it has not much character as an eating Apple, It is a fair cooking apple. It matured here last year. Its previous condemnation has been caused i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 167 by its seldom maturing. Our seasons are too short for it. There has not been as wide a diversity of opinion regarding the tree as of the fruit, although in certain places it has been chi.ssed among the hardiest. E.xperience proves it to fall far short of it. In sections where varieties as tenacious of life astheTetotsky, Duchess and Wealthy must be planted the Ben Davis has no bushiess. In hardiness it compares favorably with such varieties as the Jonathan, Northern Spy, Perry Kussett, Knglish Golden Kussett, Sops of Wine and Talman Sweet. Success With Celery. H. M. K., OREGOS, WIS. iiCt no one be deterred from sowing Celery for fear they cannot manage it. Last year the drought was very severe here, and yet we raised very good Celery with really not much trouble. The seed Wiis not sown until the weather had become comfortable outdoors, tlieii it was sown in boxes of one foot in height, nearly tilled with rich, mellow soil. The seed was covered very lightly and the l)0.\es were kept covered with papers till germina- tion took place, and the seedlings showed. The soil of the boxes was kept quite moist all the time. They stood in a very sunny place, on the east side of the house. From these boxes we transplanted directly to the garden, where they were to grow. We chose a low rich spot; we diil not put them in trenches, but followed mainly the directions usually given for .self blanching Celery. The varieties were the While Phune and the Dwarf tiolden Heart. In the fall some of the plants were not fully matured, but we triuciples of manure, nitrogen and potash, or nitric acid and potassa, which amounts to the same thing. I know its cost may prevent large farmers from using it. but from T to N cents per pound is not too nuich for small gardeners or those who have house i)lants. I have used it successfully on Cabbages, Beans, Peas, Melons and Strawberries; they all grow as if they liked to. I have also used it with house plants, viz.: Ccraiiiums, Heliotropes. Verbenas, Calendulas, Salvias, Callas. Oxalis and Ivy. They all grow well and bloom well; even the Ivy has put out leaves on its old bai'e .stems. The way in which I have n.sed it is to jiut a large tablespoouful of the salt in a gallon of water (it will dissolve more readily in warm than in cold water), and when dissolved give the plants a good soaking once or twice in the sea.son. This .solution will be found excellent for forcing young Cabbage and Tomato plants, or young seedlings of any kind, and I have no doubt would be more eff'ectual with bone meal or some phosphate. I have used nitrate of potash on different kinds of .soil, both here and in New .lersey, and it has been very satisfactory. I have found some difficulty in getting it. it being easier to find nitrate of soda, so I go to a wholesale dniggist for it. How a Run-Down Orchard Was Re- stored. A Timely Lesson. Condition of the Old Trees. The Mich- igan Agricultural College Apple orchard was set in 18.58. The original plantings were mostly Northern Spy, Talman Sweet, and Seek-no-further. The soil is a strong, sandy loam, in some parts inclining to be cold and wet. In recent years the orchard had re- ceived little attention, being allowed to stand in sod. It has borne very few good crops, even from the first. In 1885, when the control of the orchard passed into the hands of the writer, the trees presented a discouraging appearance. The pre\ious hard winter had destroyed many of the largest trees on the lower land. There was only one Baldwin left in the or- chard and but two or three Greenings and .lennettings. and all feeble Many of them appeared to be dying. All the trees were very much stunted, there not being enough last year's wood on most of them to furnish even a few good scions. Many of the main limbs had died back from the ends and the dead portions were conspicuous in every direction. The trunks were often mo.ssy and rough. The tops were for the most part very thick and low, so that no attempt at thorough culture could be made. Most of the orchard lay in a dense .lunc grjuss turf. Several careful farmers reconunended that it be cut down. Kknovation. The first work of renova- tion was to prune the trees. This was done vigorously in May. 18a5. All limbs, irre- spective of size, which would intefere seriously with plowing and cultivating were removed. At the same time the tops of the trees were thinned con.siderably, though not to .such an extent as to allow the sun to beat continuously upon the main liranches. The trunks and main limbs, so far as a man could reach, werescraped, all the loo.se bark and "moss" being removed. This was performed solely to make the trees look better. Care was taken not to scrape into the live bark. The implements u.seil were old. well-worn hoes with the handles cut off about two feet from the blade and held loosely in the hand, to not scrape too hard. As soon as the pruning was accomplished and the brush removed, the ground was plowed iis deeply as possible. To be sure roots were broken, but this did no harm. The ground was cultivated at intervals with the spring-tooth harrow, and in August a second plowing, in the oppo.site direction. was made. No crojis were planted. There was no cfl'ect produced upon the trees that year. The season's growth was well under way when the first plowing was made. The leaves continued yellow, and fell very early, as usual. In 1.s.S(l the same treatment was rej)eated. Nearly as nuich pruning was done as before, but entirely in the tops of the trees. Care was exercised, however, not to prune the tops so thin that the large limbs would be injured by the sun. The trees early showed signs of improvement. Althougli the sum- mer was dry, the growth on all the trees was good and the leaves a.ssumed a dark, vigor- ous color, and remained very late upon the trees. The improvement was a sub.ject of conmion remark. A fair crop of Apples, some 3(«l bushels, was also gathered. Kesilts Aktei! Two Yeak.s. In the spring of 1887 the orchard wasagain plowed, deeply as always before, and the sod was re- moved from all the trees by hand. The tops are now so high that the plow turned over nearly all the sod. The ground was now ni good heart. The trees set very full of fruit, and no pruidng was attempted. Although the trees have borne a heavy crop, and the season has been oiieof almost nnpreceilented drought, the growth has been heavy. The l)earing trees are I4ll in lunnber, of which le.ss than UHl— all Northern Spy — are a pro- lific variety and produce Apples which find a demand in market. There are a number of Sweet Ktmianiles and others which can- not be expected to return a profitable crop. The sales for the year were as follows: a74bbls. No. 1 (S,S2bu.lat 81.35 $300.90 10(1 hbls. No. 2 (SOO bu.) at 80-75 7.5.OO HO bu. at 80.a5 15.00 100 bu. at $0.30 30.00 22(1 bu. made into cider at 80.20 44.00 300 bu. cider Apples at $0.05 l.i>.00 1802 bu $.548.90 The reason for the great proportion of cider Apples is the heavy crop and the drought, renderingit impossible forall to ma- ture. Thinning would probably have paid. The crop was remarkably free from worms. Old Apple buyers declared that they had never seen so very few wormy Apples in a crop. This freedom from insects was due to sprayings of Paris green. A Woi!D FOK Otheh Orchakos. There are hundreds of orchards which are not bearing but which could be brought into fruitfulness for a number of years by vigor- ous culture. There is no doubt but that judicious pruning, good tillage and liberal manuring will maintain or restore the fer- i68 POPULAR GARDENING. May, tility of most orchai'ds. Some orchards are now, of course, too old to rejuvenate. There may be danger in vigorous orchards of car- rying the cultivation so far that nearly all the energies of the trees will be directed to the production of wood. The grower must determine the culture which shall meet his re(iuirenients. It is true that in the great majority of cases, however, the culture is inadequate. Barnyard man vu'e, when it can be spared, is valuable for the bearing or- chard. That permanent sod is an injury to the orchard is the experience of nearly every successful orchardist. Even as early as 1874 Dr. Beal foimd that "trees in grass made less growth, looked yellow in foliage, and Seed Drills Protected. bore smaller fruit and apparently less of it. " In ISTii he observed that " the e\idences look more and more strongly every year against the propriety of leaving trees, in our section, in gi-ass. They have stood the severe winters no better, they have borne no better, the Apples are smaller, the trees grow more slowly, a greater proportion of trees have died than of those cultivated each year.— Report of the College Horticulturist. Protecting Seed in the Drill. Seeds of various kinds are liable to be dis- turbed by sparrows and other birds after sowing. Where gardening is done on an extensive scale, the loss may not be percep- tible, but in the kitchen garden it is often otherwise. And here, the mere fact that the operations are not extended, make it easy to provide some protection against loss. One of the best ways we know of for ac- complishing this is shown in the small engraving above. This consists of having two triangular boards, one for each end of a drill, and with three or more nails driven into each of its two upper edges. A stick about one foot long, for supporting a weight, is also inserted into the board on one side, as shown in the engraving. To vise these boards one is set up at each end of a drill and having a weight, as a brick or something similar, provided. Then some light twine is passed along the drill, from board to board, back and forth and to pass over all the nails of each. This arrangement of twine will effectually keep away the birds, for they have a great aversion to any such affair. The object of the weights is to keep the twine always taut by providing against the changes by shrinking and stretching. Cabbage Growing. A. 1'. REID, SOUTH BRIDGETON, MO. According to my experience the following are the essential points in cultivating this crop: Manure the ground highly, plow deeply, work thoroughly. As to soil, a heavy moist one is appropriate. The earliest varieties are best sown in hot-beds, and transplanted early into such soil as I have described, setting them a distance of 18 inches apart. In planting be particular to set the plants down into the soil up to the first leaf, no matter what the length of stem. The later kinds may l)e properly sown in a .seed bed, from the middle to the last of spring. Do not .sow seed too thickly, and thin out so that they wall not make too slender plants with long stumps. Shade and water are necessary generally to late sowings. Hoe often, and stir the ground deeper as the plants advance, drawing up a little earth each time, until heading begins, when they should be well dug between and hilled con- siderably. When partly headed I think it advisable to lean them over on one side. To thus loosen the roots a little will sometimes avoid the bursting of full grown heads. For insects of all kinds the best remedy is to grow and head quickly. The next best with me has been sulphur sifted on often previous to heading and during the process. I have tried many other things but this is the most effectual, though I always watch with pleasure for new remedies with a view to their unprejudiced trial. As to varieties I have found nothing for all general pur- poses that beats the old " Early Winnig- stadt." Although for extreme earliness I would recommend the Little Pixie, Early Wyman or Early Jersey Wakefield. While I make no specialty of this crop, yet these are some of my observations about it as they occur in reviewing experience and study. Loss of Manure from Leaching. .JOSEPH HARRIS. In reply to the washing out theory of N. Y. L., I stated in the March issue, page 117, that the underdrains on my farm were not affected by any rain that falls during the growing season. When the ground is saturated with water early in the spring, any rain which falls very soon makes a per- ceptible increase in the flow of watei' in the underdrains; but when the land once gets diy enough to work in the spring we might have a heavy rain without the underdrains showing any effect of it. "On this farm, therefore," I said, "after the land is ready to work in the spring, there is very little risk in sowing nitrate of soda. It will not leach out of the soil for the simple reason that the surface water rarely, if ever, sinks to the subsoils or underdrains." The print- er left out the words " rarely, if ever," and readers must have thought I did not know what I was talking about. But I do! There has been an immense amount of talking and writing on this subject which is well calculated to mislead. If nitrate is sown in the autumn and not taken up by the plants, much of it will be washed out of the soil during the winter and spring months. This is a well known fact, and in England and Germany, where nitrate of soda is used to an enormous ex- tent, farmers are cautioned against using nitrate late in the autumn. Many of our agricultural writers who read these re- marks in foreign journals, without stopping to think, rush into print and air their know- ledge in a way that is quite amusing. It is time they wrote less and thought more. There is so little nitrate used in this coun- try that it need not be worth while making these remarks if the subject had not an im- portant bearing on the general subject of manures and their application. It must not be forgotten that all nitrogeneous mat- ter used for manure must first be converted into nitrates before the plants can take it up. And if what these writers intimate was true — if nitrates will leach out of the soil during the growing season — then we run great risk in using common manure in the early spring months. Such, as science and experience both teach us, is not the civse. It is not necessary to be scattering a little manure every few weeks. Give the soil a good dressing early in the spring and it will retain it for the use of the plants. I know that N. Y. L. can anLson,Ger- man I'ruue were recommended. For market, Mr. Willard's choice was Heine Claude (somewhat tender). French Damson, tiuackenboss, Lombard, Bradshaw, Stanton Seedling, Washington. So productive is the Kichland, sjiid Mr. Moody, that if the Curculio were doubled they could not thin them enough. (JvERPRODUCTiON OF GRAPES. Fairchild, Ham- mond.sport, believes in working up local trade; does not believe in overproduction! Peo])le are having a ta.ste for Graiies aroused in them, thus causing increased demand. Divides his crop in different grades, which he ships separately. The sending of poor or green fruit to market docs more to spoil trade than overproduction. Hon- esty is the best policy. Careless shipijers rob themselves as well as their neighbors. Do not depend on any one variety. As a rule, large GraiKJS are not of best iiuality. Size is one reason forConeord's popularity. I think the most prolita- ble arc Concord, Delaware and Catawba. lona, weakened from inbreeding, is more subject to phyllo.\era, otherwise is one of the best for any purpo.se. Mr. Snow, of Penn Yan, said that Con- cord, Delaware, Catawba, and Niagara for mar- ket have paid well. Worden is a great succe-s, ranks with those just mentioned. Mr. Kuijert, Seneca.— Present market price of Niagara no criterion as to future profits, as shown by history of other sorts. In Chautauqua Coiuit>' the Grape growei-s lose money when othei-s than Concords are planted. Though Worden and Moore's Early will l>e yet further tried in the future. I^ady Wa-shington and .leffei-son usually to(j late for vicinit.\' of Kochester. Bagging. It was decided that bagging pro- duced lH,'tter results generally, and protected from early frosts and birds. Sai.way Peach. Mr. Ainsley, of Geneva, the most cvtensive grower of this Peach, stated that his trees bore when five years old and that the last season from fifteen hundred trees his cnjp was three thousand bushels, and .so far the fruit hius matured eachyearnntbout injury from frost. In quality it resembles Crawford; strcjng grower; does no thinning, except to remove unnecessary branches. They will keep until Thanksgiving without a cold house, and on the whole are con- sidered profitable. Mr. Willard said that the Early Ki\ers was proving itself among the best of early Peaches. Hyne's Surprise from Texas is a fine Peach, being of the same season as the Alexander, which it much resembles, but it is a free stone. Stephen's Rareripe is growing in favor, and ha-s come to stay. Cases are known of it* being shipped east and bringing S4.00 per bushel. It is a little later than the Late Crawford. The Salway ripened a wonderful crop last year, but it has a tendency to overbear. It is in good demand. The Sturte- vant Peach is far superior to the Early Barnard. Mr. Willard would prefer one of them t. (iolden-feather Pyre- thrum. (1. Scarlet and Rose-colored Gera- niums,mixed. 7. Alternantheraparychoides ma.jor. K. Pink Geraniums. The circular bed represented by the right- hand lower figure was planted as follows: 1. Edging of Variegated Thyme. 2. Band 17 f£ IS ri t3 © © ~ :® \ , / \ , \ JL 1 1 / / ,2' 0 2 « to flCAU! PF FSCT DESIGNS Summer Bedding; with Designs. An excessive use of the tender bedding plants to the exclusion of other classes of embellishing material for the flower garden is certainly not to be encouraged. At the same time let us not fall into the error of some who would utterly banish the carpet style of bedding from our la^^^ls and gardens. The fact is we are very kindly disposed to- wards this method of adornment when practiced in moderation, for to our mind it has done more to foster a love of flowers and gardening amongst all classes than any other style ever in vogue. It has lead to an increase of greenhouses, amounting perhaps to fifty fold in a score of years, and corre- spondingly has attracted thousanherd. Boot Pruning. To prepare an Oak or Black Walnut that has reached some size, for trans- planting successfully a year later, let it be pruned this month by digging down and severing the tap root, and then cutting a half circle with a sharp spade about two feet away on one side of the tree to be followed by a repetition of this on the other side a month later. The Japanese Hop. I saw last summer a rustic arbor covered with this elegant plant, lUutmilua) and the growth was so dense that nothing could be seen through it, proof indeed against a sharp shower of rain. Amateurs who have only a small plot to indulge their taste for gardening should make a note of it, as it is only necessarj' to sow the seed and wait for the results.— E. C. Moss as a Substitute for Pots. " If you have no jjots for yoiu' bedding plants," writes " Young Beginner," " make a pad of moss about the size of a plate, cover it with a layer of good soil, bring the sides up around the ball of earth, after hav- ing placed this in the center, and tie tightly together vrith rafla or old mat. In this shape the plants will continue to thrive for weeks, having all the benefits of a shift." Insects on Plants. I have never tried anything that would so successfully destroy insect pests as wetting the plants by sprinkling with, or dipping in water, in which Tobacco leaves have been steeped. One can grow their own Tobacco, which, when dried and stored away, is always handy, and of not over-much trouble. Have tried it for Aphis, Red Spider, and Scale. Of course, one must watch and repeat it if after a time they reappear.—/. C. E. Commercial Fertilizers for Potatoes. My plan of appl.ving is to mark out the rows, running the furrows reasonably deei>, apply the fertilizers in the bottom of the furrow, working well into the soil and then planting the Potatoes on this and then cover. I tried several plans and have con- cluded that this is the best plan, as it places the fertilizer where it can be made available. I never like to place fertilizers or manures of any kind in direct contact with the seed.— JV. J. Shepherd. Old tin cans are in some respects better than pots for plants. They are not so heav.v, do not take so much room as a pot that would hold the same amount of soil; will not break if they fall. Bulbs seem to do really better in them than in pots. I have a dwarf Ageratum in a can that holds one quart, and it has bloomed all winter and has afl'orded us many cut flowers. The cans can be painted easily, and if they are rusty the paint will stick to them all the better.— if. M. K. Nutrition of Mushrooms. As to the compara- tive value of Mushrooms and meat Mr. E. F. Ladd, of the New York Agricultural Experi- ment Station, as a result of careful investiga- tion finds that Mushrooms [Agaricus camiiestris) gathered from a pasture at Geneva, N. Y., con- tained 84H per cent of digestible albuminoids. and Puff Balls {LycopercJon yiyantctis) from 70 to 80 per cent, according to maturity. He concludes that they compare favorably in nutritive value with meat. Marking the Spot. Formerly when I sowed flower seeds in the border it bothered me to know the exact location of each kind pre\ious to the time of coming up. Hence in the busy gar- den-making time, they were often disturbed. Now I adopt a plan which prevents such a mis- fortune. It is simply to encircle the spot tem- porarily with a ring of stones. I not only do this to the spring sowings but find such a plan of marking quite as desirable when seeds of peren- nials later on are sown. — Subscriber. Poisoning Mice in the Garden. I see one cor- respondent advises soaking Peas in water, and after swelling soaking in arsenic and burying be- neath the surface. For mice I think my way is better. I mix finely ground Indian meal with a good portion of strychnine, and put little mounds of this where they run. It catches them Invaria- bly. It is successful in hot-beds too, and why should not it be successful on a Mushroom bed? The mice do not get far away before they fall dead, and then cremation. They are Fully Appreciated We refer to the many kind words testifying to the value of this journal received at this office from readers. Such are indeed most gratifying. More than that, they serve to spur us on in our endeav- ors to make this the most useful and handsome paper in the world devoted to horticulture. But for the crowd of useful matter constantly on hand to be printed it would afford us much pleasure to publish some of these. Then again they are .so numerous that the question would at once arise of where to begin publishing and where t(j leave off. Vegetable Plants for Ornament. In my con- servatory it is now summer. A nice red ChiU Pepper plant is gTOwlng in a quart can, and from it hangs a beautiful ripe pepper looking like a piece of coral; there are a number of green pep- pers and blossoms, so that it makes quite an attractive plant. It was a small plant last fall, and has had a place on the upper shelf all winter. I have kept several Parsley plants in quart oyster cans; they have supplied us with all we have wanted for garnishing and for soups all winter. I have also kept Thyme, Lettuce and Nasturtium in the same way.— Wificorisiii Amatexir. Liquid Manure for Boses. Would you have fine hardy Roses 'i Then we counsel the free ap- plication of liquid manure to the plants for one month previous to the opening of the buds, be- giimlng in the North about the middle of May. Start in by using a liquid consisting of a barrel of water into which three heaping shovelfuls of cow droppings have been stirred, leaving it to stand 24 hours before applying. After a week or more the strength may be increased somewhat. Apply by soaking the ground about the bushes twice a week. This wash, it is believed, also kills the larva of the Rose bug while it is in the ground. A Fine White Flowering Spiraea. Van Houtte's .Spirea (illustrated opposite) is the most showy of all the Spineas, and one of the very best flow- ering shrubs in cultivation. The plant is a rather tall, upright grower, with long, slender branches that droop gracefully with their weight of O foliage and flowers. Foliage curiotisly sroi u'her.- ^^ lobed and rounded, of SEeos I j a lively green color. „e,e.oion. [^ Flowers pure white, O^— X great clusters and / ) whorls, forming cyl- ( — y indrical plumes two Marking ,eith Stones. »« three feet long The cut 18 from a photo- graph last spring of a specimen growing on my grounds when in full bloom. The plant was then a "perfect snowbank of white flowers." Few plants present a more charming appearance when in blossom, or ate more tasteful at other times. This is one of the hardiest of all the Splnvas.— »r. S. Little. Henderson's "New Gardening for Pleasure." What Mr. Peter Hendei-son's standai-d works, " Gardening for Profit" and " Practical Floricul- ture." have done and are doing for the market gardener and florist, this enlarged edition of a former excellent work, by the same author, is designed to do for amateur cultivators. It cov- ers the three departments of flower, fruit and vegetable growing, with the part devoted to the fli-st named rather more extended than the others together. Like all of Mr. Hendrson's oo 0 POPULAR GARDENING. 1/3 works this one is marked by a clear and practical style, which at once incites enthusiasm in the mind of the reader, and leads him who in prac- tice closely follows the directions, tct u reasonable measure of success, inexperienced thinif^h he Ih'. The work is i»rofiisely illustrated and contains over 40(1 pages. From the press of O. ,Judd C(»., New York. Grafting the Grape, t'has. A. Green says that the best time is in May or early June, after the buds of the stock ha\ e oiiened, while the scions have been retarded in a cold cellar. With yoinift stock his method has been to splice-firaft the same as with the Apple, but with old vines he cuts off the old cane as close to the roots as possi- ble, often si.x inches below the surface. He then uses a Wag- ner .saw, which makes a smooth clean cut in the stock, into which are fltted Grape euttinffg, three or m mark and move in the fall when the topdies.— JVfis. F. K. lirioyx. La f'liilir.fVash. Ter. The Watering Pot in Other Lands. All the world over where any attempt is made at garden- ing, remarks (iardening Illustrated, there you find the watering pot in some form. In Egypt a bag of skin does duty for it, the water being spurted through a narrow hose-like portion. The old earthenware water-pot is now rather rare in France, but it is often shown in the Salon liictures of flowers and plants. In Borneo a hol- low bamboo does duty as a water pot, and there are different appliances elsewhere, but for per- sistent use of this ai>pliance the Chinese are es- pecially noted. A Clunuman seems to em|)loy e\cry spare moment in watering his garden. Early and late, rain or shine, it makes no matter- there he is at work with the wat<'r-pot; and it is nither amusing to see him stolidly pouring water about anxmg his vegetables during a downpour of tropical rain. One fact is in his favcjr, for whenever the Chinese t«keti>growing vegetables they beat all comers, and generally monopolise the trade. This season, in particular, we have been driven to the use of the water-pot more than usual. In wat<'ring permanent plant,s our plan is to scrape away the dry soil bc^fore water- ing and to replace it afterwards, so that it to a great extent prevents evaporation, and also cak- SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI. A PLANT FOUR YEARS FROM THE CUTTING BED. ing on the surface. In transplanting during hot weather we also are very particular to water the plants a day or .so before they are moved as well as afterwards. When well watered before dig- ging, we find it easy to transplant nearly any- thing without any injury whatever. Pots and Plant Tubs. There is nothing better or handier than the common Hower jjot. We have all sizes from 2 inches to 14 or more inches in diameter. Some growers like soft pots, but I prefer them pretty well burned, that is, hard pots, but not so hard as to be unshapely. In the case of plants needing i>ots over 12 inches in diameter I prefer to use tubs. I never get tubs made a-purpose, but I go to the grocery store and get liquor barrels, gasoline barrels, butter firkins, or anything else of that kind that is made of hard wood and has iron hoops. Each barrel, when cut in two, yields two good tubs. With hot water and soda or a fire of shavings we are able to clean most all barrels well enough to render them agreeable to the roots of plants. And before using we screw on to the sides of each tub a pair of stout iron handles, for future convenience in moving the plants. Several auger-holes are also boreil in the bottom of each tub for ilrainage. Tin cans— as old lobster. To- mato, baking powder, and other cans— are often used as pots, so too are broken basins, jam pots, old tea pots, and the like, and all are good enough in their way, providing they have a large hole at the bottom for drainage. But no matter what is used— pot, tub or tin can— it should be perfectly clean inside and out, but more especially inside, before the plants are potted; and they should also be perfectly dry at potting time. If pots that are dirty inside or wet are used the plants later on can never be turned out i)f these without tearing their outer roots.— W. Falconer. New York City Fancies in Flowers. Everyone is looking for new ideas in flowers since Kaster, but truth to tell, you don't see many of them,— except in the newspapers. I^ent has not really Ijeen a dull season; there were two very gi-and balls, as well as minor entertiiininents, and even an informal breakfast i)arty must show floral adornments now. Plants predominated in Easter decorations, and there is every indication that their use will con- tinue tf> increase. ( )ld Trinity I 'hurch was not iiuite so elaborately arranged as in former years; the decorations were all within the chancel, and consisted chiefly of Lilies, Azaleas and Hydrangeas. In very few cases were designs u.sed in the churches. St. Patrick's Cathedral was Unishly adorned with Palms, Hydrangeas, and other flowering plants, while some of the Presbyterian Churches nuide rather a new departure by being even more elaborately decorat<'d than their Anglican and Roman Catholic neighboi-s. A great many jMjt plants were sold, and used in \>hwv of bouquets or baskets as gifts. In fact, there were aston- ishingly few baskets oi- flesigns made up. Boxes of choice flowers, ranging from flve to ten dollars each, were much in demand. Occasionally there wiLsacuU lor ornamental bo.xes filled with flowers, but in most cases people prefer the plain pasteboard— they buy the flowers, not the box. There were some notable weddings during April. In one case, where the bride bore the dainty name of Daisj', the en- tire house was decorated with masses of Daisies; no other flowers were introduced; the effect was most charming. In most home weddings the arch takes precedence of a canopy. The beautiful style inaugu- rated at Chief Justice Waite's funeral, of decorating the fam- ily pew with flowers, has not yet been followed here, but it is looked upon with favor. In this case, Callas and trailing green draperieswere used along the back and sides of the pew. The customs of decorating the church with flowers and plants on the occasimc basket seen recently had a tripod support about four feet high. ( In this were three cornucopia-shaped baskets, one beneath the two othere, which were erooted orange variety resembling the Nantes, but larger and more productive. I consider it a valuable addition to the list. Lettuce. The Buttercup, introduced the past season, deserves especial mention. It is a fine heading variety of a beautiful golden yellow, suggesting the color of butter, and was one of the very latest to run to seed. In table quality it was pronounced the best among many varieties. I think it has come to stay. The Defiance Sum- mer, offered as new by a New Y'ork firm, could not be distinguished from the old Perpignan, de- scribed many years ago. The latter is, it should be added, a very excellent summer Lettuce. The Imperial Select Cabbage, of Landreth, was the old Imperial, little changed except in the two new wordsadded to the name. The Prize Market, of Sibley, was the well known Ii iw Head, under i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 175 a slightly different cognomen, and Sihiey's Gen- esee, iotrodvieed tis new hist spring, proveme- times differences appear in cultivatitai on a larger scale that are not observable in s<» small a test. The American Btniut.\' was a half dwarf wiinkled Pea of medium season, bearing numerous large pods that contained very large Peas of excellent i|uality. The American Champion, of Henderson, bore a very close resemblance t^) the Telephone, though as I did not ha\'e the latter to compare with it, I cannot pronounce it absolutely the same. The Delicious, of Gregory, was a ver.v prolific half dwarf wi'inkled Pea <»f medium seasim, and superior (luality. I am not sure that it is distinct from all othei-s. King of Dwarfs was a second early wrinkled Pea of good (luality, and prolific for the size of the plants. Radishes. The Shepherd, so largely advertised last spring, appeared to me scarcely, if at all, difl'erent from the Cbartiei'S. T will not call them absolutel.v the stime, but the resemblance isclose. Squashes. The Bay State, ftf Rawson, is a new winter \ariety of merit, though it is probablj' not in any respect superior to the Hubbard. The plant is productive, and the fruit Ls of excellent quality and keeps well. Dunlap's Early Marrow and the Exti'a Early Orange Marrow are two somewhat earlier and more productive strains of the old Boston Marrow. They deserve a place among the very best of our fall Squashes. The New Egg Plant Squash, of Henderson, proved to be the C'itron or Mandarin Bush, of which the seeds came to us from Italy in 18H6. The Red China is an attractive little Squash, but has such thin flesh that it will not become popular with us. Pumpkins, The Red Etamijes deserves mention tor the benefit of those fond of Pumpkin pie, for which it is much superior to the common kind. Tomatoes. The finer of the later introductions bear a very striking resemblance to each other. For example the Autocrat, Cardinal, New Jei-sey, New Red Apple, Optimus, Mayflower and Puri- tan all resemble the Livingston's Favorite so closely that no one but an expert would be able to decide between them. I do not say that they are all absolutely identical. They are not. There are certain minor difl'erences, such as the amount of seeds produced, the tendency to crack in wet weather, etc., but all of them are strictly first class varieties, and will be very difficult to im- prove upon. Several Tomatoes introduced the past year possess very little value, except that they are early. Among these may be named the Bermuda, Early Richmond, Extra Early or Clus- ter, and Faultless, so-called. Two new Tth, and half that in width, removing the soil to the other end; then turn up the subsoil at the bottom of the trench, place on it a plentiful supply of manure, not stirring it in; c()ver with the soil from the next ti^ench, and so on till till is comi)lete. Half-de- cayed leaf mold, spent hops or fresh manure will answer the purpose, and the manure wiU be in good condition for the plants* by the time the rootJS reach down to it. Planting. A space of three feet between the rows and two feet between the plants is a suitable distance, as the plants can then be easily banked with soil for protection in winter— quite an essen- tial matter with Teas. In planting, dig the rows about twelve inches wide and from sixteen to eighteen inches deep, riacf in the trench a liberal supply of well-rotted manure, with a little ground bone, all to lie turned under with a garden fork. In this trench set the plants, and firmly press the soil about the roots— a \ery important part of the ojx-ration. If it were possible to keep our Roses covered from the middle of December to the middle of March with a blanket of snow, what splendid plants we should see in earlj' spring, instead of the pinched and withered stems that are fre- (luently found ! A Rose does not like coddling; a uniform cool temperature, free from drying winds, is the most congenial to the plant. In autumn planting (which is the best exceiit for Tea roses and their allies) there is no danger from drought, whereas in spring, if the weather is dry, newly j»lanted Roses suffer from excessive evap- oration, though frequent sprinkling will check this in a measure, and if the plants are mulched with manure on the surface, it will tend to pre- vent excessive drying of the fine roots. Stocks. Roses, if not on their own roots, are worked eitheron Manetti, Briar cutting, seedling Briar, or De la Grifferaie, and it is a matter of much dispute among cultivators which is best. This difference is likely to continue, as the finer varieties cannot be had except worked on one or the other of these stocks. The Manetti. for rapid increase and early maturity, is b.V far the best, especially on light soils, though it will flourish on almost any soil. The leaf of the Manetti is not very easy to dis- tinguish from the ordinary rose leaf; the stem, after attaining a little size, is of a i-eddish tinge, the suckers coming up about the stem. The Briar seedling is suited to wet soils, pro- ducing its roots in a thick cluster at the base of the shoot, while the Briar cutting is best for dry soils, as its roots are produced from the surface to the bottom of the stem. In the Briar unlike in the Manetti the sucker is likely to appear some distance from the main plant. This stock starts late in spring, which causes the plant to flower later, and perhaps rather more freely during the season. It is well adapted, for this reason, tf> the Tea rose, which is grown almost entirely in this way in England, and is admirable for bedding i)urposes, growing with great vigor. Art Unpatented Planter. The Grifl'craie st^ck is strong and well adapted lor this purpose: it is in itself a Rose of great \igor and hardiness, a very free bloomer, and quite distinct in color— so much as to be noticea- ble in a collection. Plants on their own roots are of slow growth, making very fine roots and reunity. The action of lime is to hasten the convereion of ammonia into nitric acid, from which nitrate of lime is formed. The idea in decomposing manure before its applica- tion to the soil is to make it immediately active as plant food. Where it is plowed into the land fresh, decomposition has to take place there before the plant food is set free, hence the action of the manure is tardy. — Farmers' He\'iew. An Unpatented Planter, The construction of the Potato planter attachment to a sulky Corn plow, shown in the figure, is very simple. The hind shovels are changed from the outside to the inside of the beams; the front ones are taken off and one of them is put on an extra beam between the regular ring. The spokes are one foot apart, and for a longer distance wire nails are driven into the hub for the spring to strike on. Of course, the team must walk slowly and steadily, and by driving one wheel in the furrow mmie by one covering shovel the time before, the rows will be about three feet apart. I have used this "rig" for two years. Itgivi'S good sat- isfaction, putting the seed in the moist earth without drying it in the hot sun and wind— with it I can plant three or four acres a day .--<>orr. Rural New Yorker. Lettuce Culture. I tried experiments last season to determine how old and how large plants should be before the final setting. Seed planted in Sep- tember and the plants wintered o\ er in flats in my winter cellar did not make heads as large or as quickly as those from seed sown in the green- house in neccmber. pricked out into Hats and s<*( out at the siune time to the hot-beds in February. In a lat<^r trial for open-air Lettuce, i)lants set under glass in cold frame :ix4 inches apart, and left there till they could be removed to the open ground, being one-third grown, were notso(mrly Its plants that wc-rc set from th*' same seed bed into the iipcn ground; thr latter suffered from cold, but nnide h(uids at last before the others, much to my surprise. I think I let them grow too large In too rich soil, the roots were rather poor, the earth rli"as bag. The bag should be tied, and when well soaked poked with a stout stake to get the essence out. I shtmld commence giving ma- nure water to the plants as soe manure wat<'rat every wat^'ring. Replenish the manure in the sack as soon as it is exhausted. Keep on up till the time they are in flower. For lime water, put into a cask one pailful of new kiln lime. Let it settle and it will be fit for use. Worms do great injury to the roots of Chrysan- themums. .\ny jiots that contain worms should have a watering of lime water to kill them. The disturbed state oC the soil, or the ciists on the top, will show where they are. It will not hurt the plants.— George Stevens' Catalogue. Home-grown Huckleberries. The best \arie- tii'sand r-pei-ics of Uucklcltcrry should lie f mills per quart; Peaches, 25 to 35 cents a bushel. In a large way it. costs less than in a small one. Akebia Quinata. We could hardly spare this useful and pretty vine. Its trifoliate leaves, apparently so tender when young, are sturdy enough for any weather, and the plant itself de- ties oia- most severe winters. Its rapid growth and its early plum-colored flowers, with their de- licious fragrance, make it altogether desirable. When jilanted where thick yet not dense shade is required no vine is ra<:»re etfective. (^ne of the best ways to propagate the Akebia is to take half ripened wood in midsummer, cut into lengths of from one to two eyes each, and insert them in pans of sand and water. — Garden and Forest. The Barren Qarden. I know wealthy farmers who never make more than one planting of Peas, who never provide for a succession of any garden crop; who have no Asparagus bed, who ne\'er think of raising Celery, Cauliflower or any of the more deliuat« vegetables, who never have a Strawlierry on the table except the wild ones oc- casionally found in the meadows, or a Raspberry except the Blackcaps along the fence rows. A well-tended garden pays in money, not to speak of comfort and health.— Corr. Philadelphia Press. Contageons Diseases of Insects. The entomol- ogists, mien iscopists and bacteriol( igists working in harmony may yet be able to cause the destruc- tion of man.v species of injurious insects by in- troducing among them certain fungi or bacteria. We now use Paris green for poisoning the food of insects. But imagine a solution sprayed upon trees or flowers, which, though perfectly harm- less to man and plant, is death to the insect, and exerts its influence through diffusion and heredi- ty to destroy the species.— Stephen A. Forbes. Small Core of the Baldwin. The seedsareina heap, are few in number, and thus for the size of the fruit allow an unusually large proportion to be eaten. This is perhaps one reason why the Baldwin has attained so great popularity. Its quality is perhaps not of the best, but its fine cfilor and great yields make it a favorite with both the consumer and the grower.— Am. Cultivator. Soot as a Fertilizer. Save it caretull.^■ from stove and pipes, and on a calm, damp morning scatter it thinly o\-er grassplots and beds of earl.v sown \'egetables. It is excellent as a manure, and, besides, is destructive to slugs and other vermin that go abroad in the dark, eating the seedling plants as they come up. It checks the growth of moss among grass.— PhiladelphiaPress. Dwarf Apples. We have never seen an Apple on Paradise stock except upon our own grounds, where we have about one dozen trees. They are wonderfully prolific. An Alexander has borne full crops each season for about 10 years. It is necessary to thin out the fi*uit severely, and even then often to prop up the branches as a support to the large, fine fruit.— Rural New Yorker. Asparagus Beetle. Dry caustic lime scattered over the plants in the morning when wet with dew is a remedy. The lar^a of the Asparagus beetle is a small, soft, naked, thin-skinned grub, and the least particle of lime coming in contact with this causes almost instant death. If the grubs are killed there will be no beetles.— Ameri- can Agiiculturist. Small Accumnlations are a Power. A lady writes that she lays away five cents each day for the purpose of buying fruit jilants, vines and trees for her home. Ought this not to shame those men who smoke $50 worth of cigars each year, and have no money to .spare for this better purpose. — Green's Fruit Grower. Equality in the Garden. A white Lily or a Rose or a Pansy beside the cottage door may be as fine as the Lily or the Rose or the Pansies in a queen's garden.— F. W. Burbidge. Rich Soil; Fine Roses. There is no plant that en- joys plenty of good manure more than the Rose, and a lack of this will always result in scraggy plants and miserable blooms. —London Garden. The school grounds all over Connecticut have, through Arbor Da.v, been changed from plain, cheerless, uninviting i/anJs to attractive, shady parks and groves. — B. G. Northiup. Sharpen Them Up. A grindstone is not the best instrument for sharpening hoes and similar tools. Fasten in a vise, and use a large fiat file.— Dr. Hoskins. Grood Tillage. One acre of land well prepared and cultivated produces more than two which receive only the same amount of labor used on one.- New South. The Monster. Don't buy a green-flowered Rose be cause it looks like a monstrosity, and is neither beau- tiful or ornamental.- Rural New Yorker. A Hint for Gardeners. There is nothing like having a reputation for doing things well.— Rural World. Florida has about two himdred and fifty varieties of Oranges.— Philadelphia Record. The tree is father of the rain.— Old Proverb. Vegetable Products on the Table. Apple Lemon Pie. The rind and juice of er, two teaspoonfuls of sugar; mix well, then put on the fire and heat until it thickens, stirring all the time; when cold, add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, pour over the salad, and if it is not moist enough add a little cold vinegar.— Cultivator. Apple Pudding, For a (luart of bread crumbs take a full quart of sliced Apples; put int« a battered pudding dish a layer of Apples then a layer of bread crumbs, with butter, sugar and a sprinkling of nutmeg over each until all is used or the dish is full; have a layer of Apple for the top and a good supply of butter and sugar. Cover your dish and bake one hour, then frost it and put in the oven to brown; if too rich add a little milk in place of the butter— just enough to moisten. Serve cold or hot.— Florida Dispatch. Clifton Potatoes. Choose eight medium-sized Potatoes, see that the skins are smooth and firm, wash well, and bake them. When nearly done cut a slice from the top, take out the Potatoes without breaking the skins, beat up with a little cream the whites of two eggs, a little salt and pepper, and about an ounce of butter. Replace the Potatoes in their skins, rub the slices of the Potatoes which you cut off with a little of the white of egg, and replace them like covers on each Potato, put them back into the oven, and finish baking for about ten minutes.— L. D. HOUSE PLANTS. Begonias (->f the flowering section to l>c kept insilace, so that 1 888. POPOLAR GARDENING. 179 the bulbs may mature properly. When ripened store away until planUnK time In the fall. Edgings. Keep these tidy by using an edging knife on them several times during the season. Evergreens may Ktlll he moved. Be sure under all circumstanoes t^i keep the roots from drying. Ferns to be planted early in shady or partially shady spf free growers in soil, spent hops. Of other material, to prevent rapid drying out. To set all such on a deep layer of coal ashes or (m flag- ging, to keep angle worms out. is a good precaution. Propagation. This Is a good time to get up stock of Begonias, Euphorbias, Justidas, Heliotropes, (Jerani- unis and all other quick-gi'owlng, soft-wood plants for use next winter. Shelves. Lyc<:ipodium, Moneyvlne.Othouna, Linaria, Tradescanthia, etc., can, for economy of space at this crowded sea.son, be grown on narrow shelves placed midway from the walk to the l>otlo]n of the stages, as the shade here does not hiudertheir growth materially. Specimen Plants. It is well to assist these with liquid manure sometimes. Attention to good forms by stopping the shoots of shrubby and branching sorts Is in order now. In the sea.son of free growth. Kinds that are in flower must have shade. Watering needs close attention at this season of rapid growth; plants cannot suffer once, from drying out, without great injury. Wetting the walks and under the stages of the houses will provide favorable moisture, and %vlll discourage that pest, the red spider. FRUIT CARDEN AND ORCHARD. Berry baskets and crates or other packages u.sed for marketing to be got in readiness liefore the season fairly opens. .\11 crates should be neatly and plainly marked with a stencil plate. Blackberries. More suckers will appear than are needed for the next year's plant; all unneeded ones should be cleaned away. Tie up the new shoots when large enough. Budded stock requires all the buds, except the one inserted, to be removed as they begin to grow. Crooked trees to be helped by Judicious staking. Onltivation of all young trees, at least for some years after plautlug. Is a most essential condition of their making vIgoi-ouH growth. By planting hoed crops In and between the rows, it may be done thoroughly and continually with double galn.s. Corn, because of its height, is to be avoided, as Its shade will tend to impair maturity of growth. Insects. The Tent Cati^rinlfarv hatrh out early anri should be destroyed as so<»n as ever the nests show. These are readily seen when livened up early in the day by the glistening d of wonns is destroyed there will be few if any to form a second brood in .lune. Raspberries. See directions for Blackberries. Strawberries. A dressing ()f fine bone dust or of guano preceding the fruiting is very lielpfui to the crop. Thinning fruit is one of the things that amateurs should accustom themselves more to do. Experience Is the best instructor. If you have never done this try at least a small number of plants or trees this year, thinning the fruit of different tme-s In dlflferent degrees, and note the effects. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Beets, for the main crop, should he .sown about Corn planting time. We drill ours In lines fifteen inches apart. The early sowings should be thinned as needed. Carrots. Directions for Beets will apply. Celery seed beds should be kept weeded, and the plants thinned where standing too thickly. encumbers may be grown In vacated frames and hot-beds, planting the seeds or such plants as have been started Inside, giving protection with glass at night for some time to come. Dandelion. This favorite early " green " may easily be raised In the garden from seeds sown now. Egg Plant. This vegetable delights above all else in heat, requiring a temperature of 7U" to 75**, and to be kept growing, without check, from the first, and not planting out earlier than .June first. tJuard from the Potato bug, which has a great relish for the plant. Herbs may be sown early this month, either for transplanting, or where they are to grow. The varie- ties usually sown for market, growing them after early Cabbage Is gone, are Smnmer Savory, Thyme, Sase and Sweet Marjoram. Herbs require a moderately strong soil, with good tillage. Hot-beds may be turned to good account later by clearing several spots In each one now, and -sowing Cucumber or Melon seeds to take possession later. Lettuce. The early sowings may be dibbled out Into rich soil at 13 to 15 Inches apart for heads. Melons, Squashes and the like, being rank feeders, should be planted In manured hills; six feet apart Is a good distance. Rhubarb should have the flower stalk broken t to handle the berries. Early crops that arc hasteidUK on towards ripening should be kept ratherdry. and with a temperature of 70* with sun heat, or tV'i'^ by night. Peaches. When forced fruit begins to soften for ripening, syringing may he almost wholly stopped and water at the roots considerably reduced. As for gath- ering, every Peach should be removed before ripe enough to fall from the tree, placing in shallow boxes, In a dry, airy room, until fit for use. Pines will now be In their season of strong growth. Use water freely about the walks, and In wetting down the plunging material. Although the sun now supplies mr)Kt of the heat, the fires cannot l)e got ahmg without; they may Ite kept Iianked much of the time. Strawberry plants that liavc l>een forced may be planted out. Soak the lialls, ram the soil hard, mulch with old manure, and water If dry weather prevails. POINTS ABOUT POULTRY. Combined Wire and Picket Fence. As a iiiouns of excluding- the piuiltry from tlu' llnwor and \('Ketabli' g:indeii, wc have loiind that a low hhIh of this kiiiil of IV-ncintJ:, properly applied, hijs made the (.uiltivatioii ck? 696. Propagating Weeping Trees. On what stocks are Weeping Willows, Elms and Ashes increased? Can you recommend a book on propagation?— W. H. N., Shelby Co., lU. 697. Putting up Currants and Gooseberries. Will you give some of the best methods for putting up these fruits for niarket?~E. W. N.. Houlton, Maine. 698. Started Cucumbers Fairly. I planted them on squares of clayey turf overspread with sand, and cov- ered with sand. They were started near the kitchen stove: grew tall and of good color, but soon one by one wilted, fell over and died. No signs of insects. What was the trouble?— .1. L. P., Union Co., A''. J. 699. Market Peaches. What varieties, new and old, would you advise me to plant on sandy soil for a succession from August 1st to the end of .season?— J. R. A., Phikideli)hia, Pa. 700. Non-sprouting Plum Stocks. Are there any Chickasaw or Native Plums that are free from the ob- jection of sprouting? The Myroboleau does not sprout like the natives, but it is not quite hardy.— E. P. H., Sterling, Kansas. 701. Cucumber Pickle Making. How are Cucum- ber pickles made, and in what sized barrels done up for the New York and Boston markets? What varieties are grown? I would be glad for full instructions. 702. Market for Hoarhound Herb. Is there any sale for this herb, If so who buys it and at what price? 703. Leading Snap Bush Bean. What Is the lead- ing market variety?— E. C. B., Lanark, III. 7M. Glass for Palm House. What kind of glass is to be preferred for a Palm house? Is ground glass the Ijest?— A Reader, Stamford. Conn. 7115. Practical Strawberry Forcing. 1 wish you would give plain, practical directions on this subject looking to profitable culture In hot-beds or artificial heat otherwise.— N. A. C, Melrose. Mass. 706. Bartlett Pear Planting. What is the closest tliis variety can be planted on a clayey soil of only moderate fertility? Being reputed to be an uprlgnt grower may It not be closer set than spreading sorts? 7Lt7. Winter Apple for Northern Ohio. Will you name the best variety? Soil rather a thin clay, low, but surface drained.— H. B.. Cuyahoga Co., Ohio. 70S. W on-blooming Oxalis. I want to know why my bulbous Oxalis don't bloom in winter? If I water them In the pots about September they bloom, but they should do so In the winter. I keep them perfectly dry in summer.— A. L., Cleveland, Ohio. 709. Time for Shrub Pruning. Of a general collec- tion, which should be pruned in the spring and which not?- C. M. L., Erie Co., N. Y. 710. Injured Morning Glories. How can I prevent the worm from making a home in my Morning Glory blossoms and dcstioying the seed? From hundreds of blooms last year 1 could uot save a seed.— Mrs. S. N. S. 711. Propagating Clematis, (a) How are the large- flowering varieties propagated? (b) If from cuttings would such as are grown under glass be best? 712. Clematis Under Glass. Would the plants do well trained uj) the Inside wall of a Orapery?— A. B. D., Purcellville, Va. 713. Orchard on Undrained Land. The trees, con- sisting of Apple with Peach half way between, have just been set. Soil incliut-d to hold water, and Is nearly K'vei, with not fall enough to drain it. Can you give anv practical method, uot too expensive, of treating it? A,'B., Bullitt Co., Ky. 714. Eradicating Willow Roots. How may this best be done from a pateh used several years for growing Willows for manufacture?-Ess S. Kay. 715. Heating With Natural Gas. Will some one with experience give the method for using natural gas to heat a greenhouse with? Would a specially con- structe'd house be best?— C. M. N.. Anderson, Ind. 716 Blackman Plum Bearing. Can some one tell me if this variety will bear or not? I have i;% planted and am anxious to know.— E. H. B., St. Louis, Mo. 717. Chinese Lily Treatment. Mine have bloomed in water. Should they be i)lant«d out for the summer, and if .so when should they be taken up for winter blooming?- H. L. T., Cameron, Mo. 718. Wallflower Culture. When should the seeds of these plants be starts for blooming plants next year ? 719. Mulching Newly-planted Trees. The advice to practice this Is constantly given. Will you give some instructions to A New Beginner ? T3i>. Early Tomatoes. Resin Cup. How do you Srepare the resin paper for cylinders recently referred 1 ? Is the seed sown directly in the cylinders or trans- planted to them ?— W. E. T.. Evergreen, Ala. 12\. Raspberry Picking. What Is the best device for pickers to -use to pick Raspberries in ? 722. Tomato Shipping Package. What is the best package to ship Tomatoes in ? What is better than one half bushel Peach baskets ?— A. M. N. Ti^i. Guano Query. I would like to have such light on the general value of this fertilizer as you could give. I am interested in fertilizers, but have never used this. C. C. S.. Olean. N. Y. ?24. Herbaceous Plants from Seed. I desire to In- crease my cultivation of these and am in need of infor- mation on the subject.— Mrs. C. G., Harrisbnrg, Pa. 725. Planting Evergreens in Texas. When Is the best time to set these Jn our country? How would the White Pine do here ? ?26. Book on Nursery Management South. What is the best book in this line for a new beginner ?— L. J. B., Young Co., Te.ras. 727. Wood Ashes for Plum and Peach Trees. Are such ashes leached (pr unleached good to mix in the soil of the hole when setting these trees; if so. how much? 728. Salt for Grape-vines. Does salt have value as a fertilizer for the vine, scattering it on top the soil ? r29. Bark Coming off Apple Trees. What causes this in pat<.-hes to come off In the crotches of the trees, the wood turning black, and what is the remedy?— J. B.A., Oakland Co., Mich. 7.30. Fragrant Herb. The enclosed herb of delicious odor I would like to have named. It is easily grown and retains its perfume for years. If it has a market value I would like to know. Subscriber. 731 . Gladiolus Query. Will you please give names of varieties used in producing the Lemolne Hybrid Gladioluses, and oblige B. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 583. Variegated TJmbreUa. The tree usually known in the South as Umbrella Tree is Mclia azedarach var. umhracuUfortnU. A variegated leaved form is offered. If this is the tree Inquired about by your correspondent, the treatment is the same as for the plain leaved form, but it is a weaker grower.— W. C. Steele, Switzerland, Fla. 655. Oleander Culture. E^■ery other year will be sufficient for cban^njr the soil, and the opera- tion should be performed before the plants are placed outside tor the summer.— C. E. P. ti57. Ailing Begonia. Nothing can be done to restore the plant to its former beauty and you had better throw it away and start with fresh young- plants,— C. E. P. 673. Downing Mulberry. The tree is per- fectly hardy in this vicinity, and should be in your state. —<-'. E. P. 67S. French Daisies from Seed. These plants can be g-rown from seed, but many of the plants will produce small and inferior flowers. You had better purchase a few plants of the several varieties and increase your supply by cuttings, which will ron as the fruit commences to fall the worms will collect underneath it and in this way may be caught and flestroyed.— C E. P. <)»)•). Violet Culture. As soon as the plants cease flowering they should he divided or sepa- rated into smaller ones of one goinl crown each, and planted out in rows !■'> inches apart, the plants .standing one foot apart in the row. They should be given a deep, modenitely enriched soil, and planted out as early as possible, so that they may lx?come well rooted befme hot dry weather sets in. After being planted they will require no care until September. e.\cept to keep them clear of weeds b.v frequent hoeings. After the first of September the plants should be carotuU.v ex- amined and thinned out to si.\ or eight crown.s, and all runners removed. In the course of two or three weeks they should be dug up carefully and planted in cold frames or on the benches of the greenhouse, giving them about si.\ inches of ordinary potting soil. Shade and water carefully until the plants become well establislied, and afterwards air freely whenever the opportunity offers, and carefully remove all yellow or decay- ing leaves, weeds or rumiers as soon as noticed, to admit air to the plants. For early blooming the plants must be jilaciil where they can be given an average temperat n re < >f from 4o to .50 at night. For late or spring blooming they should be grown In cold frami-s.whert' they will require the treatment usuall.\' applicil to cold frame plants. For propagation I would ahva.\'s choose those plants that have been grown and flowered in a cold frame.— C. E. P. 675. Bark Lice. Your trees are infested with what is known as the bark louse. To destroy them dissolve two pounds of potash in two gal- lons of water, and apply with a paint brush to all infested parts, or better .vet to all the stems and branches of the trees. This can be applied at any time, but it is best done in the spring before the buds start. One, or at the most two appli- cations will be sufficient.— C. E. P. 677. Manure for Flowers. There will be no danger in a free use of manure for Geraniums, Carnations, etc., provided it is thoroughly de- cayed, well pulverized and thoroughl.v incor- porated with the soil.— C. E. P. 667. Forcing Lily of the Valley. The crowns or pips used for forcing are imported from Eu- rope by seedsmen and florists during the autumn months. These crowns or pips are placed in shallow boxes, rather thickl.\' tog<-thcr, using or- dinary potting soil, then tiny shiHild be placed in a cool, moist situation until well rooted. On the approach of cold weather they should be placed m cold frames or cellars, so that tht-y can De easily xiroeured when wanted. When it is de- sired to force them water thoroughly, and very gradually increase the tenii'crature until it reaches 70°. Keep the boxes in a shaded situa- tion until the flower spikes shcjw.- 1". E. P. 704. Glass for Palm House. Yes, for the roof at least. And if the structure is to be devoted entirely to Palms and other shade-lortng plants as Ferns and Marantas it may also be used for the sides; but if Crotons, Ixoras and other trop- ical plants that love light, though not full ex- posui"e to warm sunshine, are to be grown in it. better glaze the sides with clear ghiss, and, when necessary, use temporary shading material. — W. Falconer. 705. Practical Strawberry Forcing. Secure the earliest and strongest runners and layer them into 4-inch pots sunk into the ground. When the pots are full of roots and the layers vigorous, sever them, and remove them to a cold frame or some place handy where they can be plunged together, well watered and kept in active growth. In a week or two repot into (i-inch pots, plunge as before and keej) growing. And keep them in the most active and vigt)rous condition until they show signs of starting. Keep them over winter in a cold frame. A little frost and snow- wont hurt them. Only jirotci't them enough to keep the frost from tjui-sting the pots. P^ir fruit to ripen before Easter us<' greenhouses: after that time either glass houses or hot-ln-ds. In forcing Strawberries must be kept near the glass, and have sunshine and ventilation, plenty water and room. If the flowers don't stem to set hel|> them witha camel's-hair lirusli. 'riii\\ will do well in a light, airy house, with a night temperature of 60".— W. Falconer. 715. Heating with Natural Gas. No special construction of a greenhouse is at all necessar.v. I heat about ten thousand feet of glass with :i .5-:tJ meters, using two :Mneh T burners. I use steam for heating, the same being generated by the gius, and e-ould just iLs well heat a third more space with the same quantit.v of gas. It is sate, cheap and reliable, heit'in Pennsyhania at least. The actual cost of gas is about the same as soft coal, Ijut tile greatsaviug of labor, fieedom from s(K)t, ilirt antl dust, tlue cleaning, etc., makes it a boon to the lUirist. It can be used in a good brick Hue to Just as good advantage as in a boiler. The supply or How can be regulalcd so as to have absolute control of the tem}>eratur(' in the cold- est weather, (las is being suc" '>0 4-le to the taste, being .iuicy, sweet and sprightly, but that of the latter is rather insipid. .\ tree, or se\'ei-al trees, of the Downing, if plaTited on the hoinr grounils, would be found desirable for the fruit tor eating. Birds are fondof the berries of all varieties, hence on their account some Mulberries would have the effect of lessening the loss of mori' ilcsirable products.— A. H. E. 664. Apples Falling Prematurely. This may have been caused li.v a too rigorous growth of the " wood buds." Where a tree grows in an up- right or perpendicular direction the tendency of the sap is to the extremities of the limbs or ter- minal shoots, which use up the larger part of the sap, leaving but a little for the side branches. This means short life to them. Now when the life of a tree or limb is threatened, the natural tendency is for it to produce seed, but in this case the terminal shoots used up so much of the sap that there was not sufficient left to carry the fruit through to maturity. A remedy would be, when the tree is in bloom, to take off a ring of bark one fourth inch wide all the way around the trunk of the tree. This will check the flow of .saj) and throw the forces of the tree into fruit instead of wood. By autumn the wound will be all healed over, if care is taken to prevent the entrance of borers where the bark is separated. Generally when a tree has once borne a full crop there will not be any need of repeating the oper- ation, as the limbs will become more horizontally inclined, thus checking the flow of sap with their own weight. The above result may be produced by tying down the limbs, or tying on weights,— \V. v., MUhlle.ffr Co., Masf. 68i. Laying Out Steep Front Yard. We pre- sent a sketch (printed on page 171) for laying out a steep front yard that we think might, with slight variations, prove of use to you. The idea is to have winding walks, which in themselves would serve as a check to the free flow of water, sa.y nothing of the greater length over which it would be distributed. In steep walks, as these at some points might be, it is well to insert some half- steps across the path, both to intercept the flow of water and to make the ascent and descent easier. Such steps may consist of pieces of plank eight inches wide and half sunk Into the gravel, keeping the upjier surface level or a little higher at the outer edge. To keep the steps in place on a steep incline a stake should be driven in at each end to support them. 6S7. Lady Washington Grape. The Lady Washington Grape appears quite hardy and pro- ductive. The bunches are large, well formed and attractive. The quality is veiT good. Unfor- tunately it is a little too late for the climate of Geneva.— E. S. G. 671. Bagging Grapes. Paper bags are most commonly useil for bagging Grapes. They should be large enough to enclose the largest bunches. About eight inches long by five in width. The paiH'r does not need to be very heav.v. It is custoraar.v to cut otf one of the lower corners of each bag in order to prevent the ac- cuntulation of water within it. The bag should be put on soon after the bunches are out of blos- souL They are usiuill.v fastened by folding one corner down and fa-stening it with a pin. Where it is desired to inck>se onl.v a few bunches it is vuineccssiiry to procure l>ags, as pieces of news- paper, folded about the bunches and fa.stcned with a pin, answers the purpo.se ver.v well. In- closing the buTiches improves their ap\»earanee mucli, as it pre.ser\'es the bloom. It also protects them in a measure, at least, from rot, as well as from hailstorms and early frosts. It is umpie.s- tionabl.v- wolized by the Peruvian government, and the immense de- posits sometimes attain a depth of one hundred feet. The value of real guanos from all sources is estimated upon the tjasis of their nitrogen, ammonia, phosphate and organic matter, and when of sound quality they have generally real- ized from S6o to S75 per ton. To show how un- reliable is the quality of the jiroduct at the present time, Mr. Wyatt gives an instance of the anal.vsisof two cargoes i>urporting to be of the same quality and shipyied from the same port at the same time, and in which the nitrogen varied from 15.3)1 per cent in one cargo to ™.70 per cent in the other, and sttluble phosi)hate of lime from 6.76 per cent to 0. per cent respectively. As these are pronounced far from exceptif>nable instances, we reel compelled— while adniittinir that no better manure than U'""^ guant> is to lie tound—to ad- vise the discontinuation of their use initil ship- pers guarantee them to contain a stipulate minimum percentage of the active principles. 634. Dog Nuisance. I can see no good reason why dogs should be allowed to run at large any more than horses and cows, and I think public sentiment will sometime require that the}' should be kept on the owner's premises. Those who have dogs that are of any real value can afford to take care of them, but a large proportion of them are of no earthl.v use, except to breed fleas, run over crops, steal everything within their reach, and bark at every passer-by, and the sooner they are got rid of the lietter. If your neighbors liave valuable dogs that trouble .vou, perhaps it w■ A. <^....l..*. ..^ cts. per lb., potash, 4 1-10 cts. per lb., and nitrogen 16 cts. per lb.; 10 per cent phosphoric acid, at $8.2.5 816.50 21^ per cent potash, at 4.1 cts 2.Kj 31^ per cent nitrogen, at 16 cts 11.20 $39.75 This principle, using the rates prevailing for these elements of plant food for each year, will enable any one who can reckon to tell the value of the brand he is buying. If it is offered at $3.5 vrith the above composi- tion, it is dear; if at $25 it is cheap. This is, l\ of course, based on the honesty of 7 the seller, or the care taken to verify the composition by the State chemist's analysis. The economic value of fertilizers is dependent upon local prices for crops and the farm upon which they are used. To make this clear I will state a few well-recognized truths in chemical farming. Fourteen elementary materials enter into all crops, of which any one of ten of them not being in the soil will result in the total failure of the crop to grow. But of these ten needed materials all arable soOs are held to have them all in abundance for crops save three. These threeare nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, in their forms kno^^^l to the fertilizer trade. But of these three materials only one on some farms, two on others, and all three on most farms are needed. A farm formerly under my charge needed potash only for good crops, another needed phos- phoric acid mainly, but for large crops some potash, while this college farm seems to need them all for corn and only nitrogen for wheat. But again the demanded chemicals do not depend upon the farm wholly, but vary with the crop. Wheat and the grasses call for nitrogen. Clover, Beans, etc., call for potash, while Corn, Turnips, etc., ask for phosphoric acid in artificial supply. The economic value of chemicals will then be measured much also by the intelligence witli which we adjust the fertilizer brought to the soil and crop grown, as well as upon buying in cheapest form. These fundamen- tal truths regarded, and places will be found in Missouri for chemicals; otherwise I be- lieve that they had better not be touched yet. A Plea for Small Fruits. It is to me a most remarkable fact that more soil cultivators do not provide them- selves with an abundance of luscious, health- giving small fruits. Trees of the Apple and Peach, and perhaps of the Pear and Cherry, are planted; but where there is one to do this, ninety will ignore Grapes, Strawberries or Raspberries. They feel that they cannot take time to devote to such small business as training Grapes or pinching back Kasp- berries. They do not really know how it ought to be done— and they will not learn. Besides — and this is strong reason for neg- lect— it will require something of an outlay to procure the stock necessary for such a fruit garden as every farmer and tiller of the soil should have. How extensive the small fruit plat should be will depend upon the size of the family. But it is safe to say that there are few far- mers' families in the country that could not use in a year, by canning and other preserv- ing processes, all the small fruits that could be raised on half an acre; and in many cases a whole acre would be none too much. What will an acre of good ground, well stocked, yield ? Not to go into an enumera- tion of the many varieties, we will suppose that an acre is properly planted in four plats, namely: To Grapes, to Strawberries, to Raspberries, and the fourth divided among Blackberries, Gooseberries and Currants. Wliether the yield will be large or small de- pends upon the character and quality of the soil, and the management and skill of the owner. But under fair conditions an estimate may be made thus; 100 grapevines, in full bearing, will give 12 pounds each, or say 10 1000 lbs. 40 rods of Strawberries will easily produce one bushel to each square rod, often much more, but place it at 30 bush. 40 square rods of Raspberries should yield 20 bushels, say 15 " As many rods in Blackberries, Goose- berries and Currants, say 15 " Here we have not less than 70 bushels of small fruits, the most delicious, health giv- ing food ever vouchsafed to man, if he but chooses to adopt the means to obtain it. No other acre on the farm, (no other five or ten acres) will approach it in real value. And the labor to obtain it is not difficult to apply. If the 99 of every 100 farmers scattered all over this western land— I write from a west- ern standpoint — could be induced to realize how much of good living they miss annually by neglecting the fruit garden what a bless- ing it would be. T. G. Notes on Celery Culture at Kala- mazoo. J. R. VAN BOCHOVE, KALAMAZOO. For early crop the seed was sown in March in the green house. A visit to different growers shows the plants to be in fine condi- tion, with the prospects of a fine crop of early Celery, suitable to commence shipping some time in June. The amount will exceed last year's crop by quite a number of acres. There is being more White Plume growTi here this season than ever before, which shows that it is with us becoming a standard variety. The first sowing of Celery seed outside was made the second week in April. A great deal of Onion seed was so\vn at the same time. There are not as many Onions grown here as in fomier years, as the grow- ers think there is more profit in Celery. It is almost incredible to believe how much some of our Dutch growers realize from a small plot of muck ground. One grower here, from a plot 4 x .5 rods, taking in *80; and another, from a plot a little larger, ?!13.5. And many others do remarkably well. Now a-days nearly every industry is represented by some pool or combination, and Kalamazoo Celery is not an exception. A combination, known as The Kalamazoo Celery Growers' and Shippers' Association, has been formed for the purpose of helping prices and for the benefit of its members. Every shipper and nearly every grower here belong. The growers will set out the early plants in May, and some venturesome growers as early as the middle of April. In my next I will tell how we blanch and market Celery during the summer months, fi-ee from rust. Received at this Office. CATAI/IGUES, ETC.— FIOITRES INDICATE PAGES. Kelsey Bros., Highlands, N. C, Trees and Orna- mental Shrubs, 7. Wilson, Wm. C, New YorkCitv, Greenhouse and Beddmjf Plants, 74. Ellis Brothers, Keene, N. H., Roses, Geraniums, Carnations, and miscellaneous Plants, Flower Seeds, etc., 40. AUyn Bros., Palmyra, N. Y., Small Fruits, 36. Faxon, M. B., Boston, Mass., Seeds, 32. Temple, F. L., Somerville, Mass., Ornamental Shrubs, Roses, etc, 126. Hay, John S., Oneida, N. Y., Plants, Trees, Shrubs and Seeds, 30. Kelsey, Fred W., New York Citv, Trees, Shrubs, etc.; IS. Jemison, VV.C, Natick, Ma*s., Seeds, Plants, etc.,K. Critchell it Co., Cincinnati, ()., Plants, Seeds, Garden Keiiidsites, 66. Fitts, Joseph D.. Providence, R. I., Small Fruit and Plants, 8. Pomona Niu'series, Parry, N. J.. Catalogue n and licttcr tcachci-s will he Kiit; tile instnictiiin will lii' sci noicli lictlcr than the in- stroition now (ri\cn that it will be cheaper, tin iu(fli it 1'ost.R more per month; and the serious olistjiclc in the way of makintf uy inferior Apple trees offered at fire ccjjtw each. If plantei-s put in tlie trees i»r(tperl.v, the.v would demand better trees and fif course wouM pay better pricesforthem. This woulil be to the benefit of responsible nursery men. I think that for another reason nurserymen should urge buy- ers U) plant i>roperly and when possible give an illustration of the work; for when the tree does not (frow the nurseryman gets the blame, though the fault was in the planting. Ashes and Fruit Trees. This reminds me. ■Some years ago I gave my e.vperience with wood ashes in fruit growing, and among other things narrated how I once put a pailful of tushes in the hole, it being nearly full of water, and planteuld have to put the tree on toi> of the ground! It did not occur to him that a hole for a fruit tree could be made larger than the crown of a derby hat. Benefits of Bagging Grapes. To Mr. Cris- sey's ad\'ice to bag your Grapes if .vou want to save them from the English sparrow, I would add to do so if you want to better their (piality, particularl.y the llavor of some varieties. The Concord is yet the Grape of the people, yet its quality is not the best. But bagging makes a decided improvement. If you would know just how great this improvement is, bag part only of the bunches on a vine. Then you may eat the bagged an unbagged Grapes at the same time. White fiRAPES in Market. Apropos the Pocklington, a St. Louis commtssion house states that among the New York and Ohio Grapes re- ceived last season were some of the Niagara and Pocklington. " The bunches were large and com- pact—berries as large as the Concord— good flavor and shippers, and altogether highly attractive in appearance. They sold readily at ten and twelve cents per pound, when the market was crowded with Grapes." These shipments must have ar- rived not far from August 15 (the period of low- est ipiotations, I beUeve), when the ciuotations were: Hartford, 3 cts.; Ives, 3 cts.; Concord, :) to 5 cents.; Delaware, 10 to 13 cts.; Martha, 5 to B cents.; Goethe, B to 8 cts.; Elvira, 7 to 9 cts. Russian Apples. Mr. Tuttle denies that he was correctly reported in the quotation on page 14.5. He sa>'s that while he admits that a few of the one hundred Russians he has fruited do blight —some of them badly, iKaic worse than the old Russian Apple, Alexander. The past season was one of the worst for blight he has ever seen— even the Duchess blighted; yet a large proporti(m of his Russian ps six years in succession. W()<)upeds of thiwers at a time all through the latter ])art of the season. The .same soil lioes not grow Tea roses satis- factorily with me.— Mr«. T. H. LiivejDU, Mitchell Co., iDira. Ben Davis Apple. A Michigan man on page IWl, speaks of the variable quality of the Ben Davis apple. At the last meeting of the Missouri State Horticultural Society it was stated that the riuality of this fruit is better the farther south it is giown. Secretary fioodman said that some specimens he carried to Michigan were pronoun- ced by fruit growciv there much superior to those grown in that state. The season of 1SR7 was hot and dr.v with us here in Missouri and most varieties of Api)les other than the Ben Davis made a total or a partial failure. It had a fair crop; and those grown on t hrifty trees well cared for were of unusually good quality. Persons who in former years wcaild scarcely eat the Ben Da\is at all admitted that it was very good the past winter. What it gained in ipialit.v it lost In keeping, and we were without Apples about a month sooner than usual. The Arkansas Ben Da\ns is .said to be even better than that of Mis- souri. (Jood, bad or indifferent as it may be as to rjuality, with us it is by all odds the most profitable variety, grown in this state. Even those people who think it unfit to eat will not pa.\' enough more for Apples of finer quality to make their culture jirofltable in comparison with the much abused Ben Davis. Spraying Trees with Poison. The first week in May I got a spraying i)ump and gave my apple trees a dose of poison. In accordance with a recommendation given at the Missouri State Horticultural S(jciety la.st winter, I used the common white arsenic dissolved in water which held in solution an equal weight of caustic potash. At first I used one pound of arsenic and one pound of potash to two hundred gal Ions of water; but when I looked up my notes made at the meeting I found that one pound of arsenic was said to be sufficient for four hundred gallons of water. A week has passed, and I find that the foUage of those trees on which I used double strength solution is considerabl.v burnt. Some of the fruit seems injured, perhaj>s killed. It is too soon to say how great the injury will prove to be. The trees I sprayed after weakening the solution to one-half its foitner strength show no injury to the leaves or fruit. The areeuic cost me twenty five cents per pound at the local drug store. They had neither Paris Green nor London jmrplc. If the white Arsenic is efficient it certainly has the merit of cheapnes.s, about three cents per barrel of fift.v gallons of water, even when twenty five cents per pound is paid, which is more than double //ome-mode WdxHiiy Rake. what it should cost if bought in i|uautitics of .several pounds at one time. If any of your rear the Coest silver-edged Geranium, but to be seen at its best it should lie bedded out iluring the summer, eare- I'ull.v lifti'd iM'fore danger of frost. It can also be wintered in the cellar, and the tiniest cuttings are sure to root. Mrs. K. L. P. LincsoUle, I'a. Pear Blight. Referring to the article in the Ma.v issue, I would say that .some half a dozen j'cars ago thirty of niy Pear trees (dwarfs) blight- ed. Next spring and every spring since I have applied half a bushel of hard coal ashes round each trw and I have never been troubled since. - \y. If. B. 1 9© POPULAR GARDENING. June, A Successful Fruit Farm.— Some Other Matters. F. E. SKEELS, GRAND RAriDS, MICH. The November meeting of the Grand Kiver Valley (Mich.) Hortlcnltural Society was held at the farm of E. C. Phillips, whose Apples and other f rait have graced the tables of the society for years, and always snperb. Thi.s place has all varieties of npland soil from heavy clay loam to light sand, is very rolling and of sufficiently high altitude to insure a crop of Peaches and other tender fruits each year. The principal orchard lies on a forty-acre plat, northwest of the home farm, and the south twenty acres of this contains as fine an array of Cherry, Plum, Peach, Pear and Apple trees as one can find about here. The original growth upon this forty acres was an immense stand of Oak grubs, and a portion ofthisijrimitivegrowth yet remains, soon to be cleared away to make way for a vineyard. Mr. Phillips first came here some twenty- six years ago and commenced work in the city, but his health falling later he sought a location upon which to gi'ow fruit. He was shown the place which he now occupies, which, at that time, could be reached only by a narrow foot path. The land was bought at fifty dollars an acre, cleared up and plans for a fruit farm laid, which have been de- veloped until Mr. Phillips now has in liear- ing 4,000 Peach, .500 Apple, 100 Plum, .500 Cherry and 100 Pear trees, with several acres of Strawberries, Raspberries, and other small fruits sufficient for market and home use. His favorite variety of Peach is Foster, his orchard containing besides these Early and Late Crawford, Hill's and Hale's Early. Mr. Phillips at the meeting displayed his favorite Apples in bushel packages contain- ing Jonathan, Wagner, Northern Spy, Green- ing, Twenty-ounce, or Cayuga Red Streak, Red Canada King, and Ben Davis, and all but the last two were endorsed by the Society as the best to grow for market and home use. Mr. Phillips would never set another Ben Davis, because it is so poor in qualitj, and thought the Wagner the most profitable Apple for him to grow. In Cherries there were principally Early Richmond and May Duke, with a few other varieties of sweet and sour intermingled among them. Plums were represented by the Lombard, Pond's Seedling and Green Gage; and in Pears he had Clapp's Favorite, Flemish Beauty, Bart- let and Seckel. Souhegan, Gregg and Cuth- bert Raspberries; and Crescent and Wood- ruff Strawberries on light soil, and Sharpless on clay, were vigorous; shown in clean rows. About the first of February each year Mr. Phillips begins his pruning, and the work lasts about four weeks. He does the work himself and in the following order: Apples, Pears, Peaches, Cherries, painting the cuts made upon the Apple within two days after priming. He does not plow his orchard, but keeps it thoroughly cultivated with ordinary cultivator or spring-tooth harrow. At this meeting mtich fault was found with nurserymen, nearly every member having experienced some loss by having his order filled by replacing the varieties ordered by other varieties or from poor stock. Mr. PiUimons, of Wyoming, had ordered a young orchard of choice varieties from a prominent nursery firm of Rochester, N. Y., and after waiting seven years for fruit, giving good care and attention, was rewarded by finding them all one poor worthless sort not ordered at aU. Mr. Phillips recently pui'chased di- rectly from headquarters twenty-five Hub- bardston's Nonesuch and got only three trees true to name. He further said the finest orchard he had ever seen was prodticed by planting seeds where the trees were to stand permanently. Selecting the best one and top grafting with scions from known trees, and he thought this the only safe way of getting what was wanted. Mr. Garfield asked for a good, red, winter sweet Apple and was referred to Bailey's Sweet and Hendrick's Sweet. Mr. I'hillip.s keeps his Apples for home use in bushel baskets in the cellar until wanted, and i)icked them this year the first week in October. Mr. Altord had found that the Wagner would not do well on heavy clay and that the Baldwin was tender; for a good fall Apple he would plant the .Jeffris. Oakland Co. Seek-no-further was spoken of by Presi- dent Garfield as being very popular in some parts of the State, but not known in this vicinity. On motion the President was re- quested to obtain for the Society a barrel of these Apples to have on exhibition at the next meeting. Not Over Production but Poor Distribution. PARKER EARLE, PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN HORTICUT.TURAL SOCIETY. It appears to me that there is no subject of more immediate practical interest to the commercial fruitr^grower than this one of the means for a wide distribution. All are well aware that our most im- portant and staple fruits often sell at ruinous prices in our leading markets, not only on particular days, but for long periods. The shippers of Pears from California, of Peaches from Delaware, of Apples from Michigan, of Strawberries from Illinois, and of Oranges from Florida, can all testify to this. Yet I do not think that too many of either of these fruits of good quality have ever been grown in any of these states, nor enough for the markets that there were within practical reach of them, or the mouths that were hungry for them. The fault is with our transportation, and our lack of any far-reaching and elaborate system of distribution. I think I have known good Oranges to sell at not much over one cent apiece at wholesale in Chicago, the market being overloaded, when there were a thousand towns within a day's ride of tjhat city in which you could not buy an Orange for less than five cents — and not many at that— and millions of people within the same radius who did not taste an Orange in the whole winter. Yet the fruit distri- bution from Chicago is more closely worked than from any other American city. There have been many winters in which the price of winter Apples has paid the producer very lean profits, and paid the large dealers more losses than gains, while at that same time an apple was a rarity, if not an absolute stranger, in half the farmers' homes and laborers' cottages in America. The delicious Apricots of the Pacific coast are often left to decay in the luxuriant orchards that bear them for want of a mar- ket, while not one-tenth of the people of the United States ever tasted an Apricot in their lives. Yet, by using the liest modern means of transportation, the most delicate varieties, picked ripe from the trees and full of excel- lence— and not.as they now are for long ship- ment, too green to be of higli quality — can be laid down in all of the great eastern markets in very perfect condition. The same difficulty exists with most of our fruits. So many of our availal)le mar- kets are not reached; and the fruit-growers suffer from an apparent over-production when half of the people go hungry for fruits whicli they need and cannot obtain. This condition of trade is not found in the case of staple goods of other kinds, and manufactured articles; for all these goods are handled according to a most thorough business system. The more perishable na- ture of our fruits must of necessity modify and limit the same system of thorough commercial canvassing l>y which more dur- able products are placed constantly in every town and hamlet in the country; but I feel sure that regular fruit markets can be built up in thousands of towns that now get no supplies, except in the most irregular way, by an energetic system of canvassing. This subject demands the serious attention of our growers and dealers. Raising Winter Squashes. E. W. L., SCHEN'ECTADY, N. V. Any one who has room for a few hills of Squash should by all means plant the Essex Hybrid. It is a wonderful keeper; will keep until the middle of April. I have just (May 8th) cut the last one and find it partially de- cayed, though it was apparently sound on the outside. Squash should be planted about the first of June in rich sandy loam. If the bugs trouble the young plants, drive them alWly by strewing pieces of muslin saturated with kerosene among the plants, and for several mornings pour a little more kerosene on the muslin, being careful not to touch the plants. Later on, if the vines are troubled with the borer, which will be known by the vines wilting, near the root will be found a dark spot; with a penknife cut into the vine and dig out the worms and kill them, and then cover the spot with a little earth. When the Squashes are ripe and ready to gather, about Oct. 1st, be very careful not to bruise them, handle them very carefully, and keep them through the winter in a dry, warm place. I keep mine in the cellar under the heater pipes on a table. Last fall I bought a few Hubbard Squashes, but 1 lost them; they had been bruised and they soon decayed. Those who raise Squashes tor the market should handle them very tenderly, as they are sure to rot if they are cut or bruised; and a variety that will keep until the middle of April I should think would be very profitable. Cauliflower as a Market Crop. D. N. LONG, ERIE CO., N. Y. There is probably no other vegetable with which there is so much of uncertainty con- nected in the securing of a sticcessftil crop as with growing the Cauliflower. The season has much to do with its successful growth and maturity, and the treatment resulting in a good crop one season may result in almost complete failure the next year. Con- sequently prices are often two to four times higher one season than in the next or pre- ceding one, and even in different parts of the same season. As a rule Cauliflower is a doubtful crop, and although prices are some- times very high, yet the same time, atten- tion, manure, and money devoted to the Cabbage crop will usually bring as great or greater returns, unless one has specially favorable facilities for its culture. The seed of the best varieties of Cauliflower is very costly— about *S.OO per ounce this year,— and on this account most gardeners satisfy themselves at sowing time by putting in cheaper seed, and this is one coinmon cause of failure. The Cabbage maggot is very fond of Cauliflower, destroying it when Cabbage next to it remains unmolested. This is the greatest hindrance to growing early Cauliflower, and it is a pest for which no effective remedy has yet been made known. The fly (Anthomyia brassica) lays its eggs about the stem of the plant at the surface of the ground. If the soil, eggs and all are removed every week during the lay- ing season and replaced by fresh earth, its ravages may be greatly checked. As the fly lays eggs for the first brood from about the time Pie-plant is ready to tise tintil it blossoms, two or three operations will usually save most of the early Cauliflower. For the main late crop the plant beds should be pro- tected with mosquito netting and none POPULAR GARDENING. T91 l)lante(l in open jLtrmiiid till the Hy is done laying the first lirooil of eKKS, after whieh little (liiniaee is done by the niajinots. A rich, moist bnt not wet soil, and moist, tool atmosphere are essential forgood Canli- flower. Where these cimditions, or at least some of them, are not found, it is almost useless to try to raise the crop, espeeially for market, as it is shii)i)ed largely from loeations where it succeeds well to every market of importance. In general, its culture is similar to that of Ca-l>bage, except that richer soil and some- times irrigation can be given it to advantage. If planted in rows both ways about three feet apart it can easily be kept clean. It should not be cultivated too late in the .sea- son, as its roots come close to the surface of the ground. It is sometimes mulched with old straw, corn stalks, or marsh hay. In the final stages of growth about one- half of the leaves should be tied together above the head as soon as there is danger of its being colored by thesun. In cool, cloudy weather this needs little attention compared with hot, drying weather, when it is very difficult to get perfectly white heads of good size, as the leaves seem to wilt slightly and let the light in between them. Successful Fruit Culture Demands Attention. WM. H. YEOMAN.S, TALLAND CO., CONN. In the case of fruits, these are not classed ius cultivated crops in the general under- standing of that term, and in far too many cases they are not considered so in actual practice, and so far as the necessity for a use of implements for tillage is concerned, the idea may be in a sense correct, but when it covers the question of neglect the case is different. When any extent of surface is set to trees bearing fruit, or even otherwise, the growth and development of the tree requires a cer- tain amount of nourishment, which must be supplied from the soil through which the roots extend. In order then that this de- mand may be reduced to a minimum, and that there be no misappropriation of soil fertility, a careful watch should be kept over the trees, and any superfluous or unneces- sai7 growth of branches should be prevented by timely pruning; in that way the growth is directed in desired channels and where some benefit may be expected to result. In the development of fruit, its perfection de- pends upon the supply of its nutrient princi- ples, and if the tree itself is lacking in vigor no desirable fruit can be hoped for. Then, besides attention to pruning, which is in one sense essential to vigor, there should be a care for a supply of fertilizing material applied to the soil bearing the trees. Probably there is nothing better than wood ashes liberally applied. This mode of fertil- izing is preferable to plowing and the culti- vation of crops, for the injury done to the trees In the destruction of roots is often greater than the advantage gained by the fertilizer applied for the production of the cultivated crop. The natural method is for trees to grow without cultivation, while their fertilization comes from the decay of leaves and fallen branches, which are left for that purpose; but in orchards these are conditions that seldom occur, and besides, a crop nf hay is usually removed, occasioning a double draw upon the fertility. Is it any wonder under such unfavorable conilitidus that there should be a limited crop of inferiiir fruit ? And yet, failing to stop to consider the real cause, the farmer will exclaim " I don"t see what ails my fruit trees that they do not do better; I don't seem to have any luck at all with fruit." There is no effect without a cause, and when poor fruit is harvested It is safe to conclude at once that something needs at- tent ion, and a remedy for the evil is in order. M an ures;Their Composition and Use. In the Transac'ions of the Highland and AgricnlturalSocietyofi^cotland.Dr. Ailken, chemist to the .society, gives the following description of manures and their use:— Niri;.\TK OF S()i).\.— The most valuable nitrogenous manure. Perfectly soluble and immediately available for the nourishment of the plant. Feebly retained by the soil. Hapidly goes down to the .subsoil, and im- proves its texture. Henetits deeply-rooting plants. Increases leaf and straw more than grain. Good samples contain TO per cent, or upwards of pure nitrate of .soda, eciuivalent to about in per cent, of ammonia. Five partsof nitrateof sodaequal one of ammonia. .SrLi'ii.\TK OF AMMONt,\.— A more concen- trated nitrogenous manure than the preced- ing, but not (piite .so valuable to the farmer. Perfectly soluble, but not so rapid in its action as nitrate of soda. It is somewhat firmly retained by the soil, and not so liable as nitrate of soda to be washed out by heavy rains. It is, therefore, more suitable than nitrate for wet districts. Increases leaf and stem more than grain. Applied to gi-ass, it checks the growth of clover and leguminous plants. (t(ioi1 samples contain !»S per cent, or more of pure sulphate of ammonia, equiv- alent to fiom 'M to a.5 per cent, of ammonia. About four iJarts of sulphate of ammonia equal one of ammonia. DiUEii Blood. — A nitrogenous manure, which differs from the above in being insolu- ble. It must be decomposed in the soil before it yields up its nitrogen to the plant, and this it does only slowly. The nitrogen is in the form of albumen, and is capable of yielding from 13 to 16 per cent, of ammonia. Horn Di'st. — An insoluble nitrogenous manure, capable of yielding l(i to 18 per cent, of ammonia. When ih the form of fine sawdust it decomposes easily, and is a good nitrogenous manure even for cereals. Horn, when in the form of chips or coarse shavings, decomposes extremely slowly, and is not suitable for manure. Shodhv 01: Wool Waste. — An insoluble nitrogenous material used by manure manu- facturers as a source of ammonia in dissolved manures. It is capable of yielding from 5 to 10 per cent, of ammonia, but it is unsuit- able for direct application as a manure. Le.\tuer.— A very insoluble nitrogenous material, yielding about 9 per cent, of am- monia, u.sed by manure manufacturers, but possessing no interest for the farmer. Perivian Guano.— The manure of fish- eating birds, and containing nitrogenous compoimds, phosphates, and potash. High- class guano is rich in nitrogenous matter, a large proportion of which is soluble. As now imported, it is capable of yielding from 8 to 13 per cent, of ammonia, part of which is derived from ammonia salts, and part (less than 1 per cent.) from nitrates. Phos- phates are low, seldom exceeding 30 per cent., but from one-quarter to one-half of the phosphate is soluble. The amount of potash is small, usually from 3 to .5 per cent. Low-class Peruvian guano as now imported is poor in nitrogenous matter, yielding only from 3 to .T per cent, of ammonia. The phos- phates are correspondingly high— viz., from Wi to 50 per cent., b)it the proportion of solu- ble phosphate is much smaller than in high- class Peruvian guano. Potash occurs to a very small extent— viz.. about 1 to 3 per cent. Low-class guanos are formed from high-class guanos, by the washing out of soluble con- stituents by rain, etc.. and their composition varies greatly according to the amount of washings they have undergone. Genuine Peruvian guano frequently contains a large proportion of stony insoluble matter. Kisii (Juano.- Derived from lish-cui;ing yards, and consisting of the heads and offal of fish, dried and ground. Properly speak- ing, it is not a gnano. The name guano is properly applied only to the dung of birds. High-class lish guano contains nitrogenous matter, yielding from 10 to 13 per cent, of ammonia, but it is in the form of insoluble albuminous compoun5 per cent, phos- phates, and from 1 to 3 per cent, ammonia. It is friable, and can be crushed with the hand. It is able to be— and ought to be — ground to a fine flour. Owing to this latter character, it is the most active form of bone manure. Pure Dissolved Bones.— Bones dissolved in sulphuric acid and dried with bone ash or bone char, or other bone material. It contains usually less than 30 per cent, solu- ble phosphate, about 10 per cent, or upwards of insoluble phosphates, and yields from 2}4 to 3Vo per cent, ammonia. Dissolved Bones.— A compound manure, consisting of any kind of mixture of phos- phatic and nitrogenous materials which can be dissolved with (or without) an admixture of bone, so as to produce a manure contain- ing from 15 to 30 percent, .soluble phosphate, and from 1 to 3 per cent, ammonia. Vitriolated Bones.— Bones which have been moistened with sulphuric acid, and thereafter allowed to heat in large heaps for a long time. Good samples contain from 6 to 13 per cent, soluble phosphate, with from .30 to 40 per cent, insoluble phosphate, and yield from 3 to 4 per cent, ammonia. SUPERPH0SPH.\TES.— Phosphates dissolved with sulphiu-ic acid. Their composition varies according to the richness of the phos- phate from which they are made, and the extent to which they have been dissolved. High-class superphosphates are made from phosphates containing a high percentage of phosphate of Ume, and are very thoroughly dis.solved. They should contain between .30 and 40 per cent, soluble pho.sphate. and very little insoluble phosphate. Medium super- phosphates contain at lea.st 33 per cent, solu- ble phosphate, and below that are low-class superphosphates made from minerals poor in phosphate of lime, or insufficiently dis- solved. Mineral phosphates exist in great variety, and contain very various i)roportions of phosphate of lime— viz., from 30 to 90 per cent. They are of use as manures only when they are ground to the finest flour. Even when ground very finely, some are so hard and insoluble as to be of no use as manures. (To be Concluded.) 192 POPULAR GARDENING. June Fruit Evaporating in Niagara Coun- ty, N. Y. Tallit(/ SiWi'mr Omu Shipping Room EvaJ>. Evaji E-jc,/,. Steam isiipiili{piiic\ J*ijics C^ FIG. 2. END ARRANGEMENT OF STEAM PIPES. much so as the year preWous, when the high price of 16 cents per pound placed all evaporator men in the best of spirits. Last fall the price started off at 12 cents, but it has for good Ap|)les reached as low as 8 cents. From Ave to eight pounds of evaporated fruit are counted on from a bushel of Apples, the (juantity varying with the variety. Mr. Corbin expressed the opinion that the (mt- look for fruit evaporating as done on an exten- M^ork Room PciclaiTi-i Evuf. face of pipes and the next one to it there are three slides for holding the fruit racks. An in- verted funnel cover terminating in a chimney serves to draw off the moist air that has passed through the fruit. Steam for the four evapora- tors In this building is supplied by a .'JO-hor.se Dempster steam generator made by the Demp- ster Engine Works, Buffalo, N. Y. The CAPACITY OF THESE EVAPORATORS is about fifteen hundred pounds each of dried fruit in 34 hours. In a building some rods away from this one Messrs. Harding & Sweeting also have four large dry heat evap- orators, one a Williams the others constructed after a pattern of their own. A storage house hartng a capacity of 3,000 barrels in the base- ment for fresh frnit is located convenient to both buildings. This firm engages mainly in evaporating Blackcap Raspberries, Apples and Peaches. Of the former they themselves are extensive growei-s, having in this place a bearing plan- tation of 18 acres mostly Ohio Blackcaps, and this spring tZ acres more were planted. They prefer the Ohio to all others for its hardiness, productiveness and fine appearance, either when evaporated or for selling fresh. Peaches are rather more abundant about Somerset than in most other parts of Niagara County. FIG. 1. GROUND PLAN OF HARDING & SWEETING'S STEAM ^^ ^ ^^^j^ ^^^ ^^^ Peaches are not evapor- EVAPORATING BUILDING, SOMERSET, N dithculty of getting insurance. Third, the rapid increase of small evaporators. While remarking on the great increase of this business as done on a small scale, he referred to the fact that there was far less sun-dried fruit in market than for- merly, owing to the extremely low price that had been forced upon this, by the superiority of evaporated fruit. The price of the sun-dried article had frequently fell to 3 and 4 cents per pound. There was some demand for sun dried Apples for making a certain coloring material. As regards BLEACHING EVAPORATED FRUIT, the sulphur process was mostly in use. Salt water has sometimes been employed, Mr. Corbin said, as a substitute, dipping the fruit into it im- mediately after paring and coring,with the effect of preserving the light color, but a salty taste was always perceptible in such fruit. In his opinion there was not the least possible objection to sulphur bleaching if it was done with the slightest: regard for careful w^irk. The next place visited by our representative was that of Harding & Sweeting at Somerset Sta- tion (Barker P. O.), P. L. Pallister superintendent. Tills is one of the most extensive estiiblishments in the county, having a capacity of upwards of one thousand bushels of fresh fruit per day, and employing over 100 hands in the scsison. It has been in operation for six years. The proprietors are also largely engaged in evaporating at Ulcott and at Lyndouville in this state. This establishment at Somerset is especially in- teresting from the fact of tlie successful experi- ments that have been made in EVAPORATING BY STEAM HEAT. So satisfactory indeed has this process been that the proj^rietors lisve become completely converted to the system, and hereafter will em- ploy it almost exclusively. The advantages of steam over flue heating as demonstrated here are: Safety from fire, thus being able to secure insurance at low rates; ease of management, there being but one fire (a boiler) employed for all the evaporators instead of one fire to each evaporator as on the old plan; economy of fuel, as cheaper soft coals can be used, while with dry heat evaporating hard coal only is suitable; pro- duct not subjected to injurious gases and fumes. Four large steam eva]>oratoi-s are employed in the main l)uiUiing of this firm, a ground plan of which building and showing the ktcation of the different rooms and apparatus is given in Fig. 1. The size of the building is 64 by 70 ft. Three of these evaporators are known as the Shelby Steam- heat evaporators, and one is a Rice apparatus. A view f)f the end arrangement of the heater pipes of the Shelby evaporator isshown in Figure 2. From each length of head pipe, as here shown, there are eight one inch pipes side bj- side, ex- tending to and connecting with similar heads at the other end, said pipes being slightly over twelve feet long. It Is the hot steam iiassing through this system of pipes, and which is fed by a main pipe from the boiler, that creates the heat for drying the fruit. lUitwevn pwh sur- ated, they being more profitable when sold in a fresh state. For preparing Apples the Eureka parer made at Antrim, N. H., and the Pease Sheer, made at Ontario, N. Y., are mostly used, and which together produce what is known as punched stock. This firm last year jiaid from 15 to 20 cents per bushel for Ajiplcs, using shaken fruit and windfalls. No attention is paid to sorting the fruit except for size, or to turning out more than one main grade of stock. Mr. Pallister, the superintendent, in answer to the question of the ADVANTAGE OF LARGE ESTABLISHMENTS to the particular region in which they are located, said that much of the fruit for which from 15 to 20 cents a bushel is now gladly paid, formerlj- netted the growers not more than five cents per bushel for cider making, the best use to which it could be put. In some years the evaporatoi-s of this section not only exhaust the supplies of the region about, but fruit is shipped in by the car load from other regions, even from as far as Michigan. Two years ago when winter Apples fell to 75 cents per barrel, and evaporated fruit was higher in proportion, the evaporators were started up in mid-winter and converted many of the former into the latter. Bleaching the fruit is done with brimstone, in a bleaching box, to which the fruit when first FIG. 3. FLOOR ARRANGEMENT OF MR. PERRIGO'S EVAPORATING BUILDING. placed on the racks is transferred. Fifteen min- utes is considered the right length of time for it to be in sulphur fumes. Over-bleaching of Apples leads to a yellowish color. Another establishment visited was that owned by J. E. Perrigo, of Barker Post t)fflce, near Somerset. This one we looked upon as being more nearly reiiresentative of THE GENERAL WANT IN THIS LINE than others visited in this tri|), becau.se of being conducted on a scale suited to the require- ments of the ordinary fruit grower who e\apor- ates fruit for himself and neighboi-s,as an adjunct to his business as a grower. In the present case Mr. Perrigo has been both the builder of the works and the manager of the e\aporating in all its details. By the aid of the accompanying drawings we shall attempt to describe his estab- lishment and its workings. The ground plan of the evaporating building (which is 40 by 24 feet, less a jog), together with the location of the apparatus in it, is shown by Figure 3. The capacity of the works is one hun- dred bushels of green fruit per day, and some fifteen hands are employed. i888. POPULAR GARDENING. '93 The evaporators, (if wliieb there are two, were designed and built liy tlie proprietor, and in his estimation meet every reijuirement of a first elass drier. They are wood liurners, Imt eould easily Ix" Htted for ttie use of eoal. Mr. 1'. eonsiders wood, mostly hard, at $:1.M per cord, the priee he pays, eheaper than eoal at $.'> a ton. He ean pret insuranee on his works at IHj per eent for three months. Would see no advantajre in elianj/r- infj t I'l'"' of the Heater. Fi(/.0. Position of UUaclier, Trimminy Table, etc. and with screen bottoms for fruit, with an open- sap commences. ing into each drawer from the tup and near the triuuners' tiilile. Brimstone is b\irned from below the drawers, while a stove pipe from a hole in the top ofi the bleacher leads to the chinmey, causing a draft of the brimstone f\imesthi-ough the fruit, and their escape. As the trimmer handles and oits the fruit she drops it into one il rawer of the bleacher through the hide above until this is full, and then changes and tills the other drawer. When the second has been lilli-d, usually in Ave minutes, drawer No. 1 Ls removed and again lilled. Grape Grafting. HKNRY LULLS, YOUNGSTOWN, N. Y. Since trimming the grafts set laatspring, many of which have made a growth of a) feet, com- pletely renewing worthless vines with \aluable varieties, I believe some of your readers who ha^■e vines of wort hless kinds may be induced to make a trial of Grape grafting themselves. To such I vriU make a tew suggestions. 1st. Grape-vines can be grafted with a greater certainty of success by a person not skilled in grafting than any other stock. 2d. The entire secret of successful Grape grafting lies in caring for the cion from the time it is cut from the vine and placed on the stock until it has callotised and united. The Hrst part of this may be accomplished by cutting soon after the leaves fall and keep in sawdust or the like in a cool cellar, or better, an ice house initil united. The second i>art is in shad- ing the graft after it is placed on the stock until growth has commenced. 1 have ac- complished this very well by sticking two wide shingles on the south side cd' the graft, slanting them toward the north; the shingle should be placed in V shape. Old Peach baskets without the bottom will answer the pin-pose ad- mirably placed over the stock grafted. This matter of shad- ing I consider the most im- portant part of Grape graft- ing. With me on heavy ida.v loam soil I have when shaded entire success, when not shaded entire failure. My plan of grafting is as fidlows: I cut the vines ritf within three feet of the ground before the flow of This leaves but few buds on, anil in so doing the \italit.^' of the stock is not weakened. The time I prefer is just after the buds have Hrst oiioned. I then clear the earth away from the vinos lielow the first tier of roots and insert the graft. I then eo\er all parts where .stock and graft come together witli paste of commiai yellow clay, around this 1 wind a strip id' cotton cloth. The earth is then brought back again, puckingcarefully where thi' union is made by grafting. The loo.se, Hne soil is drawn to the top of the cion. When completed il re- sembles a liroad I'otntu hill. A .shade as descinbed is tluMi put o\er it and the work is complete. This plan of grafting \vorks well on stock from % to '■^ of an inch smaller. Stock may lie splice and tongue grafted as shown in !)r. Sta.vman*s artiidt! in the February issue. On stock of one inch and over I prefer cleft grafting. This is doni' principally the same as the above, and dilfcrs onl.v from ordinary to cleft grafting in the shape of the graft and in the manner of making the (left in the stock. This is done by first rutming a fine saw down the stock. A (me and one-half inch piece is then cut on each side, as shown in the lower right hand engraving. The graft is made by cutting a thi;i slice from eatdi side so that it will fit the stock as shown directly above in the cut. By making a hea\'3' bottom to the cion thus it can callous before dry- ing out, as some- times may happen in case it is wedge shaped. In putting in the cion no wedge is used, it is merel.v iMtWwamof Grafting pushiul down. The arape-vine*. c"'"'"-' 1'"^ is coy- ei'cd with a jiaste of clay, and a cotton liandage wrapped around and .soil replaced as in the previous case. The side grafting, as illustrated, is the simplest process of grafting of any, and on I! rapes as well as all other stocks it works well. Cherries. Plums and Apricots are grafted very readily by this means. The drawing (to the left) shows exactly how the cut should be made, and by springing the to)) of the stock back the cion may be put in place very easily, when the top springs back and holds it firmly there. It will lie seen that the sap wood is bound to cross at some point, which makes success certain. 684. Acacia Culture The seed can be sown at any season of the .^•ear, early in the spring being preferable. Previous to sowing, soak the seed in hot water for several hoiu-s, then sow \ery thinly in a well drained pot or pan filled with light loamy soil, place in a warm, moist .situation as close to the glass as possible, and as soon as the young plants are strong enough to handle they sho\dd be carefully removed and potted ofl' into two or three-inch pots. As the seeds of some species \egetate much sooner than others, care must be taken to avoid injuring those that re. main. Keep the young idants close for a few (lavs, or until they have taken hold of the soil, then place in a light, .sunny situation and grow on as rii)iidly as po.ssilile. Re-pot as of ten as they reiplii-c it. giving gciud drainage. The strong- growing \arii-tit's will tliri\e in a ciimiiost com- posed of twii-tliirds turfy loam and one-third well de('a\(-'d niiiiinre, while for those of delicate growth a blieral addition of sharp sand should be added. As s i a.s the plant.s are large enough they should lie iilaccd on Isiile diuiiig the summer sea.son. Water must iic carefully and tliorough- \y given whenever necessar.\', and when the plants are inside they should be freiiuently syr- inged. After the plants cease blooming they can be trimmed back iiilu shape, and those that reipiire it n--potti'd. Kull exposure to the sun dutiitg the siinuiicr seasim is c^scidial to bloom- ing them well. ( '. V'. P. (i'l. Bagging Grapes. Bags made of good manilla paper arc best. No. 1 bags of stjindard size are large enough for Uelawares and those varieties that produce sinular sized clusters, while Nos. 2 and :i will \k needed for mediiuu and those of larger size.— Chas. K. Parnei.i.. IIS.'). Sweet Potatoes at the North. -Sweet Po- tatoes can lie grown at the Niirtli. but with little or no profit. They reiiuirc a rich, light, warm •soil, and in this vicinity are generally planttnl in rows or ridges four feet apart, the plants stand- ing one foot apart in the row. .\fter growth conunences, all the loltivatiou they will reiiuire will constst in keeiiirig them well cultivated. And the vines should lie moved occasionally, in order to pre\ ent them from rooting at the joints. As the plant is of tropical origin, the slips or sprouts, lus the yoinig plants are te-rmed, should not lie planted out until .luiie first. -C. E. P. 194 POPULAR GARDENING. June, The Fancy-Leaved Caladiums and Their Culture. W. FALCONER, OLEN COVE, N. Y. The fancy-leaved Caladiums are among the richest and most showy of garden plants, and amenable to cultivation by anybody. Although indigenous to tropical South Am- erica, they have decided seasons of rest and growth, and this enables us to grow them as easily as we may a Dahlia or Gladiolus, and without a greenhouse. We grow them in summer and rest them in winter. Most florists who deal in a general collec- tion of plants have Caladiums for sale; the average price is 20 cents each or $3 a dozen. From October to April the plants are sold in the form of little tub- ers. After April they are disposed of as _^ growing plants in pots. Some kinds are far more expensive than others, and the price of all sorts differs ac- cording to the size of the tubers, large tubers costing more than small ones. But our American prices are moderate compared with those of European Arms, who charge from .50 cents to .$.5 a plant. After receiving the tubers, say in April, pot them singly into small pots, using turfy porous soil, and keep them in a warm place in the window and away from drafts, and shaded from sun- shine. In May we may keep them in the window, or out on the piazza or in a cold frame,always guarding against winds, draft and sunshine. When they have filled the small pots with roots repot into larger ones using open, turfy soil and some rotted ma nure. Caladiiims like an abundance of water during their whole season of growth, hence the great necessity of porous soil, so that the water can pass off readily; and although they are partial to rich soil, I find it is better to give the pots a good mulching of rotted manure than to mix much manure in the potting soil. Use lots of drainage in the pots. Probably the Caladiums will continue in active growth till August or September, when they will show an inclination to die down; then lessen the supply of water, and gradually let them go to rest by stopping watering altogether. During the summer months we may keep the Caladiums on the piazza or plunged out- of-doors in a sheltered, partly shaded nook in the garden. Indeed, we often have capi- tal success with them when we plant them out in the garden about the first of June; and associated with Rex Begonias they make a pretty clump. When planted out they continue longer in fresh growing con- dition than they do when grown in pots. As greenhouse plants they are superb and come in during the summer months at a time when our greenhouses are considerably emptied of their usual contents. During the wintermonths keep the tubers dry. You may either return them in the pots in which they had been grown during tlie summer, or, for room and convenience sake, shake them out of their pots and store them close together in a flat filled with earth or sand, and keep them in the cellar, cup- board, or anywhere else that is handy, always observing that the minimum tem- perature is not less than .'iO". More Cala- diums and Gloxinias die during winter on account of having been wintered in too cold a place than from any other cause. And be very particular to guard the tubers from rats and mice, which are very fond of them. In spring don't let your ambition to see them grow get so far the better of you as to induce you to start them early. Don't start of which are green, flamed with crimson. But very few florists advertise it. Among the sorts that now take the leading part at our principal exhibitions are alho- lutcum, Carhiatum, Comtcssc de Maillc, Cypbcl, Gerard Dow, John R. Box, Lcplny, Md. Marjolin, Princess of Teck, Reine du Portugal, Scheffer, Sir/MS. heading FANCY-LEAVED CALADIUMS.— THE FOLIAGE OF VARIOUS KINDS. them to grow till you are certain that you can afford them a night temperature of at least HO", and without the aid of a green- house or hot-bed you cannot well do this be- fore the end of April. The following are capital sorts and quoted by our florists at $3 per dozen: BoUdieu. Green towards the outside, flamed with crimson in the middle. Candidum. White ground, green ribs. Chantini Splend^ns. Spotted with rose and crimson. La Perle du Bresil. White, tinted rose, trans- parent, green veins. Louis Duplessis. White ground, green margin, red veins. Md. Alfred Bleu. Green ground, white blotches, red veins. Md. Fritz Kcechlein. White ground, purple ribs, green \eins. Meyerheer. White, green veins, red ribs. M. A. Hardy. White, rose tinted, green spotted. Napolemi III. Green, flamed crimson. Prince Albert Edward. Greenish, dotted white, crimson veins. Triomphe de V Exposition. Green, flamed with bright crimson. While the above are bold-appearing plants, the gem of the gems, C. arfiyriteK, green and white, grows only to a height of si.x or ten inches, and makes one of the prettiest pot plants imaginable. It costs no more than the others. A capital companion plant to Argyrites is C. minus erubesccns, the leaves A Few Noteworthy Roses. BY MBS. M. D. WELLCOME. I do not mean to be understood by this that there are not many Roses worthy of note, but it is of those recently introduced and not yet widely known that I would write. "Her Majesty " rather took the lead last year; a Hybrid Perpetual, the rival of Paul Neyron, the largest Rose grown This Rose is a seed- ling originating with Mr. Bennett of Staf- ford, England, and was introduced in this ccmntry by Mr. C. F. pjvans.of Philadelphia the importer also of the famous Hybrid Tea Rose. W. F. Bennett, The color of "Majesty" is a delicate satiny pink, very sweet. This Rose has given very general satisfaction. The leading popular Rose of the present year is undoubtedly " Mrs. .John Laing," which also comes from Mr. Bennett, and laden with honor, across the sea. It was awarded the gold medal at the National Rose Society in Eng- land, .July, 188.5. I will give the testimony of one of our own Horti- culturists respecting it. Mr. F. I.. Temple, of the Shady Hill Nurseries, Cambridge, Mass., says: "This is undoubtedly the finest Hybrid Rose introduced in the past ten years; its color is a beautiful soft pink; it has a most delicious fragrance and is of exquisite shape and large size; a strong grower, not subject to mildew, and — which is very rare in a Rose of its size— is a constant and abun- dant Ijloomer. I grew it last year at Shady Hill— the first season of its appearance here —and the results were so surprising that I will relate them. Plants six inches high were set out June 14th, and gave three crops of magnificent blossoms, about two shades darker than Baroness, of the most exquisite and powerful fragrance, and, finally, of en- tirely unusual substance, a point of great importance in an outdoor Rose, as it enables it to keep in good condition in the hot sun for several days. It gave me a full crop of the grandest sliow flowers every three weeks." This is very high praise, and so assured is Mr. Temple of its perfections, he guarantees to replace the cost to anyone who is not thoroughly pleased with Mrs. .John Laing. Other specially valuable Roses not novel- ties of this season, but treated for a few years, are Pierre Guillot, the best Hybrid Tea, and Antoine Verdier, also a Hybrid Tea. Both extra fine, and constant fine bloomers. For Yellow Roses we have to go outside of the Hybrids. The best hardy is Persian Yellow, very bright color, small but very i888. POPULAR GARDENING. 195 double, and a very early bloomer. The finest yellow Teas are Perle des Jardins and Etoile de Lyon; large golden flowers borne abundantly all through the season. A French Flower Balloon. Wliat may be called a novelty in the style of using summer bedding plants is shown illustrated on this page. The figures were re-engraved from the pages of the French journal, RevueHorticole. The mound as here shown is adapted moie especially for use m parks or other extensn ^ f grounds, but some modi =:_ flcation of it might aKo -;^^ come in very well m jj^. grounds less extenshe As a novelty in summer embellishment, what could be more pleasing than such an arrangi ment on a small scale, using for plants such called the Spanish Dag- ger, from its sharp jiointed leaves. This Yucca is perfectly hardy. ./ . Stands the hardest treat- ment. I have seen the plants thrown in wiushes and they would root from the trunk without any earth thrown over them. Up to three years this is a very effective plant for the decoration of houses. As far south as New Orleans, where the Fan Palms fill the swamps, this Yucca is used for '4 decorating the Opera Houses throughout the winter. Its seed germi- nate reay ciittin); away the older canes aomewluit freely <<> Ki\ e the yoiuiff shoots more roiini fi>r development. Then a year later we would cut hack these fresh shoots to si.\ or eight buds, and usain make a free cut at the old ones. By bending over a portion or all of the old shoots and securing tbem in this position more t)uds would start from the crown as a re- sult, and thus admit the sooner of making over the i)ushes. '.a. Salt for Orape-yines. Salt would only have value as a fertilizer of Gnipe-\nnes(m dry sandy soils by fiirnLshing them witli more moist- ure. A slight application would do no hainn on any soil, ami sriTuTiilly no good. On reiLSonably good soil good tlinroiigh cultivation is all the native Grape-vine requires. On very poor soil thoroughly i-otted manure eiuiy in the fall anil unbleached ashes in .June are best.~D. 11. W. 72.5. Bark Coming off Apple Trees. It is causeil by injury from extreme cold, and the e.\pansiy cold splitting the wood and bruising and killing the hark. Such ruptures and bruises are then oftt-n attacked by the wooly aphis or Apple-root louse, causing .still further damage. The remedy is to hang something in the forks that will shed off the water in the fall of the year, to remain over winter and thus to kill the lice.— U. B. W. 196 POPULAR GARDENING. June, The Dandelion. A little child was playing. Her eyes her joy betrayiug. And cheeks so rosy; When all at once, beside thee, She cunningly espied thee. And lisped, "A Posie ; " A gard'ner who was hoeing. And felt hlni weary growing. Sat down to rest; At once he 'gan to hate thee, To threaten and berate thee. And growled, "A pest ! " Black Cherries. Thick as rain-drops hang the satin Cherries On each bough of huge, o'erladeu trees, Leafy weight, that half the fruitage buries. Set against the warm, caressing breeze. Ardent fruit of ardent heat— a yearning Fills my heart at all this bra\'e array. —Mrs. Goodale, You love the Roses— so do I. I wish The sky would rain down Roses, as they rain From off the shaken bush. Why will It not ? Then all the valleys would be pink and white. And soft to tread on. They would fall as light As feathers, smelling sweet ; and It would be Like sleeping and yet waking all at once. —George Eliot. Bag the Grapes. " Woodbankg " on Niagara. There is beauty in a curve. The editorial office lias been moved. Tree Faeonies are too seldom grown. Have you planted some Nasturtiums? Mildew is one sign of an exhausted soil. The sun ^'n wet leaves may cause blisters. The Mulberry is propagated from fall set cut- tings. Annual Chrysanthemums come better in a rather poor soil. Any management that e.xcludes common tlowei's is faulty. To cut off flowers as they begin to fade will promote freer bloom. Grow some tree, plant or crop so well that .von may well be pi-oud of it. The same vegetables should not be grown on the same plat for successive years. To pinch all flowers from .Sti'awberry plants is one way of increasing layer pr(»pagation. The Ohio Ever-bearing Raspberry is unques- tionably the favorite throughout Niagara Co. To be most effective the Persian insect powder should be applied when plants are dry.— T. H. L. No Quarter, A steel rake witli sharp teeth and handled by an active man leaves little chance in the garden for weeds. Every suUsciiber is sure to derive benefit from the Popular (Iakdenino Experimental (rroiuids. Now is the time to subscribe. The Tansy plant, with its very ornamental leaf, may be rendei'cd decidedly handsome by cutting out the tlower shoots as they appear. Treating the Ice Plant, This plant, McMmhrj/- anthemuin crystaUinium, is quite effective for vases if the buds are kept down. — Mrs. Lnvcjiyy. Deformed or "Bull-head" Ferle Boses, Mr. W. J. Palmer of this <.'ity says that such are pro- duced only on young plants; his old ones yielding I>erf ect flowers. We like bone meal for pot plants. It is effec- tive as a top dressing or mixed with the soil. It is odorless. It can be bought for 4 centsajjound in fifty pound lots. To the Trade and the Public. This joiirnal's new grounds are not commercial in their charac- ter. Not a tree, plant or seed shall be advertised and sold from them. Boses should not stand in sod. If the reader's bed is so situated, let him now invert the sod, and from henceforth give free culture, with a liberal dressing of f)ld manure yearly. A Rose jar, says the American Cultivator, may be made of Kose leaves gathered in their prime and free from moisture. Mix with them the essential oils of lavender or rosemary. Sport in a Fern-leaved Beech There is a curi- ous case of sporting on one of the branches of my Beech. The branch is two or three feet above where the improved part was budded on the stock, but the leaves are not cut at all.— fV. S. L. The Best of All, Of the numerous important steps taken b,v this journal at intervals since it was founded, to increase its circulation and influence, our readers, we think, can easily agree with us that none other can compare in significance with that of purchasing and con- ducting a fruit farm, garden and expeiimental grounds in the sole interests of the paper and its readers. Lime for Grape Bot, For three years I have kept my Grapes from rotting b.v scattering air slaked lime over the vines and Grapes every two or three weeks. Scatter any time after the Grapes are formed, or when the rot begins, I have vines sixteen years old; the Grapes had always rotted, but lime has made me three crops of splendid Grapes. With me it appears to be a panacea for all Uls.— R. S. Martin, Clark Co,, Ohio. Eating Strawberries. We hardly need in- structions on this point, and yet it may be well to observe that an English mode of serving this fruit at the table is to take it freshly picked, with all its sheen of shining dewy, perfect ripeness, and taking it by the stem, severing it with the thumb nail, thus presenting it in its full beauty. The eater then takes the berry by the stem, dips its moist and glowing crown in powdered sugar, and thus obtains and enjoys to the full all the aroma of its then abundant juice. The Norway Spruce. If Mr. Charles A. Dana, of New York, wiU honor us with a brief visit we think we can show him such specimens of the Norway Spruce as will force him to see the weak- ness of this fling at a valuable tree, and which recently appeared in Garden and Forest: " Fin- ally, I have one piece of advice for the young planter, whether his purpose be aesthetic beauty or material profit, and that is, never to plant a Norway Spruce. One of the great misfortunes that have happened to the gardens and pleasure grounds of our Northern States is the Introduc- tion of this ugly and useless tree." Applying Hellebore, etc. For years I have applied Hellebore to Kose and Currant bushes, and Paris Green to Potato vines, etc., with great Siitisfaction by the use of a very simple home- made sifter. This consists merely of a common kitchen-salt bag to serve as the sifter, and at- tiiched to a wire or reed that is bent in a circle and fastened to a short handle. Such salt bags usually have meshes about right for this purpose, and by placing the dust poisons in one of these and shaking it on the plant, the operation may Ik- easily, safely and well performed.— D. JV. L. Roses in Iowa, The old fashioned Cinnamon and Scotch Httses are the only Koses that will withstand our wint<'rs without covering. Even the so-called " Hardy as an Oak " Kose, Madam Planlier, will kill to the ground if left unpro- tected. All those Koses that approach perpetual flowering, like Alfred Colomb, Coiiuette des Alps, Capt, Christy, Jacqueminot, Mad Chas. Wood, Paul Neyron, and many others, must ha\e extra protection here in Northern Iowa. It has been au expensive experience for me to reach this in- formation, for I depended upon the catiilogues, which .said these varieties were hardy.— Mrs. T. H. L., MitfUell Co., Idwa. Spiders and Plant Insects, Kepiilsive as Spi- ders are to most i>crsons, they perform, accord- ing to Dr. Keller 4>f Zurich, an important part in the preservation of forests, by defending the trees against the depredations of aphides and insects. He has examined a great many Spiders, both in their \'iscera and by feeding them in capti\ity, and has found them to be voracious destroyers of these pests ; and he beUeves that the Spiders in a particular forest do more effect- ive work itf this kind than all the insect-eating l)irds that inhaliit it. He has verified his views by observations on coniferoustrees, a few broad- leaved trees and Apple trees, A Word on Blanching Celery, The main ob- ject of banking Celcr.\- is to keep the stalks upright and exclude the light; anything else that will do this maj- answer as well or lietter than soil. If some extra clean and bright ('elery is wanted to exhibit at your fair next fall, secure a suppl.v of tea chest matting at the grocer's now and at the usual time of handling wrap each plant in a double thickness of this material, keep- ing it in place by drawing a little soil around the bottom and tying above once or twice with bass or other string. Add more matting when neces- sary, keeping the plants covered to the top. The result should be satisfactory at the end of three weeks, more or less,according to variety, — F.H.M. Roses in the Autumn, The most certain way of securing these is to plant out Tea and others of the ever-blooming kinds in spring. By pro- curing strong plants in three-inch pots, and at a cost of from $1..50 per dozen and upwards, setting these in well enriched ground, kept well culti- vated and well watered in dry weather, there should be loads of fine flowers from August until near November. Two common mistakes made with these plants is in setting out such as are too small, and in trying to make the same plants do full duty both as winter pot plants and as summer bedders. In a well drained soil many of this class of Roses can safely be wintered in the beds where they have grown by bending them to the ground and covering with sods or earth at the approach of winter. Some Simple Tools and their Use. For setting Strawberry plants use a common plasterer's trowel. Striking into the mellow soil, pressing towards you, and insert the plant with the left hand, spreading the roots with the thumb and fingers; withdraw trowel and with it push soil against the roots, pressing flrmlj'. For trimming Raspberry bushes use a pair of shears made by a blacksmith,— blades 1 inch wide and 10 inches long, bolted to light, strong 2-foot handles. For cutting out old wood use a bill hook, with blade IJ^ inches wide and bolted to a scythe snath. For the first workings of garden stuff with a horse, nothing equals an expanding cultivator, with frame thickly set with V or diamond shaped harrow teeth. For fining soil after the harrow, a good clod crusher will do the work, — A. M. Nicfwls, Licking Co., Ohio. Thinning Fruit. Let it be put down that a medium-sized crop of perfect fruit is invariably worth more than an abundance of inferior speci- mens. The former is always in demand even when the latter as a drug finds no sale. To secure the better quality, thinning should be resorted to. Mr. Hoopes remarks in the Philadelphia Press that in the case of small trees. Grape-vines and small fruits, the secondary specimens may be pinched or clipped off without trouble; with large old trees the difliculty is to reach the top- most branches. Although a crude practice, pol- ing off a portion of the crop is better than allow- ing all to remain on. Nipping off a part of the fruit with pole-shears is rather tedious, but with the finer varieties it pays. The owner of a fine vine who does not pinch off one-half the clusters of a prospective heavy crop does not deser\^e good Grapes, Clayed Ponds, An artificial pond for the growth of aquatics or other jjurposes may be readily constructed by the claying process, wherever a tenacious clay is procurable. This is rk two varieties of the Cataivhknxe species, with biids set. They bloomed well, and ha\'e e\ery June since. Never were they so beautiful as last year, in the largeness of their trusses and individual flowers. The bright evergreen foliage, with stems of bright yellow, is very attractive before the coming of the flowers. They thrive in any good garden soil. In my own garden they have a strong element of clay in which woods-earth and sand have been intermixed. Peat is injurious. They are growing in a i)retty sunny position, and a large Hydrangea grandi- fiora protects them on the north. Evergreen boughs are placed over the roots late in the autumn. There are several species of Khododen- dron, but the Hybrids produced from the Ca^au'- ItU'uxi- are the only perfectly hardy. This species is a native of North Carolina. U. pimiicnm is a native of the Himalaya Mo\intains in Asia, and from this many beautiful varieties ha\'e lu'cn produced, but they are too tender for our winters in the open ground. Tliere are coloi*s of purple, lilac, pink, crimson, white, and scarlet, of beauti- ful shadings and markings. The seed-pods ought always to be removed soon after bh>inning, as the ripening art from its spring-like look it harmonizes with the delicate greensso fashionable in millinery, which is quite a consideration to the feminine mind. The immense bunches which used to make a fashionable girl look like a perambulating gar- den are out of date n()W, but a breast knot of mtjderate size is an indispensable finish to the toilet, and certainly more women wear flowers now than in former seasons. They have ceasecl to be a luxury for the matinee or evening func- tion, and are a necessity for every day wear. Very few decorations of any note have taken place lately; there have been few entertainments. At one reception the rooms were prettily adorned with Hj^draugeas in pots, placed singly and in nuusses; the effect was i)articularly good, white flowers only being used. .^It the many April church weddings Palms were the chief adorn- ment; comparatively few flowers were used. At several larger luncheons lately the guests have been seated at small round tables, each ac- commodating four to six, and each of these tables is decorated with a single variety of flower. One will be Lilacs, another Hoses, another Violets, and so on. Where large Roses were used on such an occasion, each lady would receive a single flower with her name written on a leaf in gold, but this is a comparatively hackneyed idesi. All table decorations sh(jw apparently un- studied taste, rather than the heavy elaboration of former yeai's. The loosely filled basket, fmm which the flowers are taken to form the favors, is a vastirai>rovement on the old formal arrange- ment, with Ixiuiiuets lying at each plate. In spite of all we hear about the excess of ribbon in floral arrangements the best flor- ists use but little; the fashiained iV ^ oiu' eyes earlier in the season have M disappeared totidly. W The Pansy is enjoying a little w boom, tlirough Mrs. (leveland's '' fancy for it. However, it is always a favorite flitwer; a suburban florist declares that it sells Iietter than any other flower that grows. Not that articles of eai'th capillary atiraction is retarded and the moisture in the soil is retained for the use of the plants growing in it. E. A. Kiehl.— Strawberries ought not to be ciilti\'aten the roots and to give a thori lugh watering afterwards. A iiartial shad- ing during the heat of the day is neces.sai"y initil the plants seem at home in their new location and begin to push their roots into the siUToiuiding soil, and a mulching of some light material, such as spent hops from the brewery, old leaves or even sand, is of great benefit, as it prevents the soil from drying and shrinking away from the young plants before they have time to settle themselves and go to grooving. If after the suc- cessful planting is accomplished, the ordinary araf)unt of care, in watering, weeding and lioeing, is given, thei'e can scarcely be a failure in the production of an abundance of bloom.- ^Vr.s. Ed- 'W(ird.-< before the Viinutauqua Co., N. 1'., Society. Strawberry Culture. I used to plant in rows four feet afiart and eighteen to two feet in the row, but have gradually made the rows nai'rower and lessened the distance between tlie plants un- til now I make the rows two feet nine inches apart and the plants one foot in the row. I do not commence cultivating until the weeds begin to show themselves for I want the plants to get a good start before they are disturbed; keep all runners cut off until the last of July, for the newly-set plant is no more able to make moi'e plants before this time than it is to bear fruit. By doing this very few weeds will have to be pulled by hand, for by the time you are ready to let the plant make runners you will have the weeds all killed. If the surface soil is loose and there are no weeds do not cultivate during drought. I plant as early in the spring as possi- ble; b.v preparing the ground in the fall a gain of two weeks can be made. I prefer to plant be- fore any growth is made. If the matted sys- tem is followed, do not let the plants crowd each other, for this not only reduces the quantity of the fruit, but the quality.— J. S. Browne before tfie Alton, Illinois Society. Plants from Seed. Amongst armuals, I find Petunias, Portulacas, Zinnias, and various Ama- ranths, Marigolds, Nasturtiums, Phlox Brum- mondi, to be most successful under what might be rather adverse circumstances. With good soil and thorough culture they may give a good return and render the garden bright and cheerful, in the driest of seasons. A bed of Phlox Drum- mondi is a sight to dazzle the e.ves with its brillian- cy and it is seldom too wet or to dry for Petunias. The blotched and striped are brilliant and varied in the extreme. The granditiora section is par- ticularly striking in the form and marking of its magnificent flowers. With protection from destructive winds, especially if facilities are available for watering in dry weather, success may be had with Asters, Balsams, Candytuft, Pansies, and a few others. These aie well worthy of a little extra care. Of florist or bedding plants, Ageratum, Sweet Alyssum, Daisies, Feverfew, Lobelias, and Verbenas, can be grown from seed and treated as annuals, and will flower the first year. But Geraniums, Coleus, Chrysanthemums, Carnations, Heliotrope, and many others, can not be grown from seed profitably, and should be procured from the nearest florist. They are mostly of easy culture. There is a large list of perennials which I think tleserving of more at- tention than they have been rceiving of late. Columbines, Snapdragons, Larkspurs, Pinks in great variety, Pajonies, Phloxes, etc. These re- quire but little care, and increase in strength and beauty from year to year, only needing to be taken up and di\ided once in three or four years. —R. Mililicn before the Kan.'icw State Society. Forestry Gleams. From the report of the Michigan State Forestry Convention we gather the following: Martin Conrad, of Chicago, a wagon manufacturer, said: " Five kinds of tim- ber are foremost in the construction of wagons, viz: White Oak, which requires 80 years to ma- ture; Shellbark Hickory, 30 to 50 years; White Ash, "30 years; Tulip tree, or Whitewood, 60 years; and Red or Norway Pine, 60 years. An acre of timber artificially grown is worth five times as much iis an acre of the natural wood. Prof. T. J. Burrill, of the Illinois University, expressed the belief that forest^tree planting is not profitable iis a farm crop on land suited to the growth of wheat or corn. President WiUits, of the Mich- igan Agricultural College, took the stand that planting trees over the arid plains of the west to bring rain is going to make a great change there. B. E. Fernow stated plants fi'om vigorous stocli for setting. Poor plants from old beds will tend to run a variety out. For market, he recommended se\'ei-al varieties, but seemed to favor the Crescent and Jewell. The Crescent succeeds evei'.vwhei*e, but the Jewell requires deep, strong soil, and was afiapted to hill culture. Before buying new varieties U) any ex- tent, he would ad\ise first buying a dozen plants of a kind to test them. The secret of Mr. Augur's success in fruit cul- ture could be easily .seen in this lecture. It is thoroughness. A man like Mr. Augur, on land that has l)een thoroughly undeidi'ained, sub- soiled to the depth of twenty inches, manured at the rate of twenty-five cords to the aci'e, and kept free from weeds, must necessarily obt^iiu a heavy crop. His Jewells, set 18x30 inches, had averaged a quart to a plant. In rei>ly to a ques- tion about tall planting, he said if he set plants in the fall he should remove the blossoms the ne.xt season and allow no fruit until the year after. Mr. Dunbar had an experience of thirty years in the culture of Plums. Hissoil was moist clay, but with g(Kid natural drainage. But Plums suc- ceed as well on dilteient soils. It i-equires to be well fed. It will not stand neglect. He attrib- uted most of the failures with this fruit to this cau,se. Hen manure and manure from the hog- pen are as good as any. The Ijest place for the Plum is in a henyard. As it requires clean culti- vation, not doing well in grass, a henyard seems to be just the place for it. Besides the hens are the Ijest protection against the curculio, the worst pest of this fruit. He attributed his own success with Plums to thus growing them. The black knot had troubled him considerably. While no sure remedy had been discovered, he found by applying manure liberally to a tree where he saw signs of the black knot, it gave the tree a thrifty growth, and had a temlency to check its ravages. By this means he had not lost a tree for fourteen years. The varieties which had done the best with Mr. Dunbar were the Lonibaitl, Imi)erial Gage, Hradshaw, Niagara and Wheat. From what he had seen of the Niagara, he was favorably impressed with it. Mr. Augur endorsed what Mr. Dunbar said in favor of the Niagara. It seemed hardy, prolific and free from black knot. Mr. Augur also rec- ommended the German Prune, Pond's seedling and Quackenboss as quite free from black knot. Shropshii'e Damson is excellent for pre8er\'ing, but like Lombai'd, vots in a hot, moist season. Bavery is an excellent dessert variety, but this tree is much troubled with black knot. The Lombard requires twice as much sugar for pie- serving lus the German Prune. The McLaughlin, which originated at Bangor, was favorably spoken of by all as a des.sert. fruit. The Raspberry and its Culture. [Extract from prize essay by Mr. A.N. 'Wilcox, before the Minnesota Horticultural .Society.} Species, Blaclroi)agate them.selves by rooting the tijjs of the branches of the current season's growth. The other species named i)erpetuate themselves from root cuttings or suckei-s. There is a small class of Hybrids between these two, which may be produced by either tii) rooting or suckering. (Jf these the Caroline alone is worthy of cultivation. The common name of Kaspberry is derived from the Italian rosy, probably because of the rough- ness of the wood. The name "Hasps" is still used in Scotland. The lie-st vaiietiesof blackcaps for geiieral cul- tivation in this climate are the Tyler or Souhe- gan for early, and the t)hio and Maiumoth Clus- ter for late l)erries. Doolittle is gtiod when young, but lo.ses productiveness with old age. With a desii'able location and adequate wintii' protection, the more tender Gregg or Hilborn, or Shaffer's (^^olossai, will amply reward the extra pains its cultivation requires. Of the red kinii, I would place the Turner at the head of the list, followed in the older named by the Cuthbert, Marlboi'o, Brandywine, Thwack and Philadel- phia. (Jf these, the Turner I would alone lec- oramend for general use. Caltore, Kaspberries will thrive on almost any well drained soil of moderate lichness, but wet land is alwa.vs injurious and often fatal to them. Harrow smooth and fine and plant deep. Plant in late fall or early spring, in straight rows, seven feet apai't, with bushes three feet a|>art in the row. If jiianted late in the siiring, tender shoots are liable to iitaid future growth. For the first seiusoii give clean culture, and, if desirable, other croiw may begrown among them withoutinjuiy. When the time for picking ariives, gather as often as once in two days, and pack directly in the boxes in the field when picked. For black caps, u.se quart boxes and Ifi quai-t cases; and for led, pint boxes and 24 pint cases, and market as soon as practicable after picking, as they are ne\ er better than when fresh from the bushes. Crates will cost with boxes 13 or 14 cents each. Pruning. Pinch back between two and three feet high to increase the growth of lateral branches, and stop cultivation in season to hai-den the wood before freezing weathei-. In spring prune laterals to one foot in length, and if in- jured cut back to sound wood. As soon as con- venient after the bearing season is over, cut out all the old wood and the new shoots to four oi- five in each hill, always bearing in mind that all HaspbeiTies are perennial and that we must lay the foundation for the next season's cinp, by se- cui-ing a vigorous growth of healthy shoots at this time. Besides, careful pruning will gi'Ciitly as.sistinthe afterculture and wiuter protection. Winter Covering; Mulching. Take no risk of losing a crop b> wiuter killing, where they can be so easily sa\cd by covering. Cover the siuue as the Blackberr>'. We cover by removing sev- eral inches of earth fivjm one side of the hill, so that the plants may be bent over at the roots, and thus cover the whole i)lant with earth. This must not be done until as near freez- ing weather as possible, and sh(mid be removed early in the spring. After lifting them in the spring, cultivate shallow but thoroughly. The best mulch to guard against drought is three or four implies of fine, loose, ficciuently stiiTed soil. No bi'anch of horticuitui-e pays better for a series of years than Kaspberries, as they are a ccmiparatively sure cro(i,besirevent heating. Mr. Derby also would not apply manui'e in summer when planting Celery. Mr. JohuCrosbj', however, advised manuring in summer after a Cabbage crop, then plow and roll down well and set the plants with a stick. Celery will sometimes outgrow blight, but not always. Mr. Henry Allen remarked that fresh manure should not be applied in summer if the Celery is to be bleached in the Held. After Beets or Cab- bage he would manui'c, i)low and roll, and grow Celery for bleaching in the pit. Mr. J. W. Russell said that in order to keep Celery late in Spring it i-equiren, I will relate the results of some experi- ments that are at least suggestive. On the 30th of May last the roots of several Corn plants, the tips of the tallest leaves of which when raised erect were about ten inches from the ground, wore laid bare, and these showed that the aggregate length of the main roots and fibers belonging to each plant (eighteen days from planting) amoimted to nearly or (luite one hundred feet. In order to .study the effect of ordinary cultivation upon the root"*, a spade was inserted to thedcpth of three inches on fo\ir sides of a hill of Corn, keeping it about the same distance from the stems, after which the roots were laid l)arc tor examination. It apiieared that twelve of the main roots of this hill had been severed, which was quite one-half of the entire number. In a hill examined a week after a root pruning, like that just described, the root growth, as compared to that of a hiU not root i)runed, was found to have made comparativel.v little development. The foliage, however, did not show the effect of the root pruning as plainly as did the roots. In order to try the effect of such root interfer- ence upon the crop, as independent of the collat- eral effects of stin-ing the soil, a plat containing one-twentieth of an acre, planted with Corn, was left entirely uneulti\ated, so far as stirring the soil was concerned, the weeds being pulled by hand, as they became large enough to require it. When the young plants had attained the height of three to si.x inches, a lawn edger was carefully inserted to the depth of three inches, on four sides of every hill in each alternate row only. The lawn edger was kept at a distance of three or four inches from the plants, the aim being to cut the roots to about the same extent as by ordinary cultivation. The soil was not dry. On June 34th, about the time for the usual second culti\'ation, a second treatment was given, on the same rows, and in the .same manner as the first. The Crop. The plat was not again disturbed, except to pull such weeds as appeai'ed, until all growth in the Corn had ceased, when the crop wiis harvested. Counting 80 pounds of the freshly husked Corn as a shelled bushel, the root pruned portion yielded at the rate of .32 bushels and 'S, pounds of merchantable Corn per acre, and the portion not root pruned at the rate of .52 bushels and 70 pounds, or an excess over the root pruned part of 20 bushels and 47 pounds per acre, the difference between a poor and a good crop. I certainly do not propose to argue from these results that cultivation is injurious to Corn. What the experiment does teach is this: cuttmg the roots of young Corn i)lants, in a season like the past, and on soil Uke the plat upon which the experiment was made, is by itself, that is, inde- pendent of the other effects of cultivation, injur- ious. With us the season, until midsummer, was exceptionally dry, but the drought did not prevent a good crop of Corn where the roots were not disturbed. How to Cultivate, it is too early yet to lay down rules. I simply suggest that as we do not know in advance whether a season is to be wet or dry, it would be wisest to practice that kind of cultivation which stirs the soil most thoroughly with the least damage to the roots. In a word, this means to cultivate deeply in the center of the spaces between the rows, while the plants are so young, but very shallow near the plants; and the space that may be cultivated deeply will be narrower at the second cultivation thau at the first. In washing out the roots of Corn plants it was observed that at the time the tallest leaf raised erect reached the height of ten inches, the longest roots had grt>wn horizontally a distance of about nine inches; in other words, in rows three and a half feet apart, a space about two feet wide at the center was still free from roots. One week later the horizontal roots had grown to the distance of eighteen inches, which left but about six inches of space free from roots, and by the end of another week the roots of plants in adjoining rows had commenced to intermingle. Chrysanthemum Cultivation by Amateurs. {By FAwin Beckett. Paper read at a Meeting of the St. Atbans, (England.) Hortieultural Society.) I have known amateurs with limited means and scope to figure prominently at some of the largest e.\hibitions, and run the professional growers very close for honors, and in some cases actually beating them. But when this has happened, it has been mainly due to the untiring energy of the first-mentioned class of cultivators. Having met with a fair amount of success both as a cultivator and exhibitor of these flowers, I will now proceed to brietly describe what I believe to be the best uumIc of cultivatiini. Propagation. From the middle of December to the first week in .lanuary I consider the best time to commence propagation. It is well for the begiiniei' to make a selection of the best and most popular sorts befoi'e starting, which is easily done by noting down at the exhibitions the varieties staged by the most successful com|>eti- tors, and 1 wtnild also advise them to grow a limited number of sorts, having two or three plants each of the best rather than a host of un- certain varieties. By adopting this coui-se much disappointment will be avoided. I have found that the best way of striking the cuttings is to devote a light or two of a pit divided by a partition, and heated by hot-water pipes running through, to the work of propagation. The frame should be filled with finely sifted coal ashes to a sufficient depth to raise the cuttings to within a short distance of the glass. A great many growers advise putting the cuttings in a cold frame. I object because of the great risk of their suffering from damp and mildew, and at the same time remaining almost at a standstill. The plants should be kept in a healthy condi- tion from the time the cuttings are inserted until the flowering season. The soil used for filling the cutting pots should consist of two parts light fibrous loam and two parts leaf-mold with a liberal addition of sharp silver sand. Use three- inch pots with a little moss or rough loam placed over the drainage to keep it clean and sweet. Fill the pots moderately firm, and jjlace a little silver sand over the surface of the soil. Insert four cuttings in each pot. The cuttings should at all times be clean cut and not rooted suckers, choosing the strongest and most sturdy shoots for the i>urpose. Some sorts will be found to strike much rpucker than othei'S. Potting, The whole stock should be ready for potting by the end of January or the first week in February. The soil should be the same as ad- vised for filling the cutting pots. Thoroughly water them, air and keep close for a few days, taking care to protect them fromfrost. Ventilate freely as they commence to grow and wholly remove the lights on all favorable occasions dur- ing the day. Nothing tends to strengthen and keep them in good health so much as an abund- ance of fresh air when they are in a young state. By the last week in March they should be ready for shifting into six inch pots. The compost should qonslst of two pai-ts of good fibrous loam, one part well decayed horse or cow manure, and one part leaf mold, with a good addition of coarse sand. A few half-inch bones should be placed over the drainage. Put a neat stake to each plant and return them tn the cold frame, treating them as mentioned before. At the end of April, or some later, if the weather is unfav- orable, move them outside to a sheltered position; the foot of a south wall or fence will suit them admirably. Let them stand well clear of each other on slates or boards to promote drainage. They should receive their final potting into 8- inch pots in the first or second week of June. A few of the strongest growing kinds may go into ten-inch pots. The compost now should be three parts good loam and one part decayed manure, with a liberal addition pf bone meal. Drain the pots well, placing a thin lajer of fibre over the drainage, which should be formed with clean crocks ancl half-inch bones. Pot firmly, using the potting-stick freely. Place a longer and stronger stake to them before leaving the potting- shed. The most suitable and convenient sunning place is an open, airy position by the side of a walk, where they wiU receive the full benefit of the sun during the whole day. To make them safe from injury from the wind, drive in strong stakes a short distance apart, and strain wire or strong string to fasten them to. Syringe freely every fine afternoon, and as the plants advance in growth and the pots become fiUed with roots liquid manure must be applied alternatel.v with clear water. Attend to thinning out the shoots, allowing three or four to each plant according to its strength and the \'ariety. Bisbudding, This is a source of great anxiety even to the experienced cultivators, as sorts differ so much in the time required for the ex- pansion of their flowers. Generally, for those required about the middle of No\ember I have found from the last week in August to the second in September the best time. From three to six Bowers only should be left if extra large blooms are desired. The central bud should always be left. Disbudding mustbepertormed by a steady hand and keen eye. I u.se a small pointed .stick, taking the buds away when large enough, and exercising great care not to damage the re- maining bud. (To be Continued.) The Planting and Care of a Vineyard. [From discussion of Cliautaiuiua Co. ITurticultural Society. March 31, 1888.1 Preparation of the Soil. Mr. Hynes said that I he depth of plowing depends upon the 1 888. POPULAR GARDENING. 20 1 previous deptli of ciiltiviilion. He should uot destroy the surface roots. He always pU)\ved his vineyard in the fall, throwing the furrows towards the vines, and some- times plows aKain in the spring, usually plows four to live inches deep. Mr. Kc.viiolds. A four-year old vineyard plowed l)y nic in the late fall was in.iured h.v the winter, a part not plowed beinfi uninjured. Preferred early fall j)lowin^, s<^ ground may lie compact before severe weather corae.s on. Mr. Schoen- feld sjud if a large root is broken off the vines will make an effort to throw out new roots to i-e- pair the injiu-y. Planting. Mr. Watson advised to plant early. Nurserymen who have to hold hack a quantit.v of vines may have some reason for planting sur- plus stock late, but vineyardists as a rule should do their planting early, finishing the planting he- fore June 1. Vines may and do hve planted in June, and even in some cases July, but the growth will be much less than those early planted; no invariable rule can be laid dowu lor Grape culture, hut all vineyards require culti- vating si.x to eight times during the season. In planting, one of the safest, cheapest and best fertilizers is ground bones. A pint t«) a \ ine is none too much. The i»rice of (irape stakes ((Chestnut, second growth) is about seven cents. Use good braces ten feet long. Wire hsis gone dowu for one finality to $2.:i-> per KXl lbs. Frnning. Mr. Hall beheved in pruning vines twice the tirst year, once after the new growth stiirts, and again near the close <.)f the season. Mr. Bartholomew said we should aim to prune so as to give all the etaTgy to the root. Advised to prune young Wues back to two buds. The tirst few years are the most important in the life of a vineyard. The wise vine.^■ardist looks for prf)tracted. rather than for immediate residts. So called winter injury to vines is in most cases due not to the winter, but rather the result of immature iipening, induced by too late fall growth. Advised the pinching off in the early fall of the ends of the growing canes. This irill induce lateral shoots to be thrown out, which should also be pushed back. This heading back develops heavier and riper fruit, and alsfi a more IK'rfect ripening of the canes. This is no new idea, but one e.\teiisi\ely practiced, especially in Europe, where for a thousand years vine.vards ha\'c borne annual crops. 1 know of \ineyards not twenty-fl\e years old that show unmistakable signs of decay. Mr. Sehoenfeld ad\1sed to cut back to two or three buds \ines planted the spring Ix'fore. Al- low two or three canes only to grow, having them all grods they could can, and made a large payment in advance. They lan Tomatoes, Corn, Peas, Beans and Apples. They had paid during the piust season 40 cents per 1(10 pounds for Tomatoes, TO cents iier 100 pounds for Sweet Corn, with husks on, 40 cents per bushel for Peas, pods and all, 40 cents per bushel for Strmg Beans, and about ■£> cents per bushel for Apples. At Garnettthe secretary of the canning com])any informed him that it had been their first year, but they would make a nice little profit. He found very nice machinery, consisting of a large boiler for making steam, large kettles, and air-tight vats for cooking and scalding goods to be canned. During the canning season 300 hands were employed, mostly women, girls and boys. They i)aid IS cents a bushel for Tomatoes, $7.50 per ton for Corn, with shuck on, 40 cents a bushel for Peas and 25 cents a bushel for Ajiples. The citizens thought it was a big thing for their town. One farmer had planted 13 acres in Tomatoes and secured tlu' neat sum of .¥(I1K) at IK cents a busliel, double what his land is worth. The canning company made its own cans, costing 2^ cents apiece or less. At Pleasontim ${t,il()0 was invested in machinery and buildings, and at Garnett $10,- 000. The cost of machinery for a factory of or- dinary size is about $.3,n(X). A Home-made Evaporator. I secured a box two feet long, IS inches deep and two feet high, making the bottom answer for a top. I removed one side, cleating the pieces together near each end, and put leather lunges on, fastening it to the former bottom, but now the top of the con- cern. At the loose cornel's, 1 nailed on an inch- square strip to hold them rtrm. Inside, on each of the ends I nailed half-inch strips, two inches apart, as sides for the trays to run upon. The trays were made of strips of half-inch stuff, one inch wide, halved in at the corners and braced by diagonal wires. They are covered with white mosquito-netting. At the top and side furthest from the door hinges, I removed a piece of the top two inches wide and made a chimney two inches wide, two feet long and afoot high. When the evenings arc long, we all set to work at the Apples, and putting a few pieces of wocxi in the strive, begin Hlling the tra.vs, the lowest first. As the second tra.v is prepared, the tii-st one is moved up and the new one put in ne.vt to the fire, until the evaporator is full. The evaporator is placed on four pieces of brick, stood edge-wise on the stove at the corners of the machine. The Apples dr.v off the first evening to some e.xtent, the following day the evaporator lifted on again, by evening the fruit is readj' to put away. My method of cutting Apples is to peel, and take off two slices from each end. then cfire, and shce the remainder to a thickness of <)ne-fourth of an inch. The trays shoidd Ix' made one av two inches nar- rower than the \ntx and arranged so that the hot air is driven from front to rear and back again as in the sketch. Thedoor hungat the tf)p should l>e kept closed except when putting in or remov- ing trays.— Corr. Farm and Home. Windbreaks. In no way is the aljsencc of our forests niort' mtticeabiy felt than in the piercing, biting winds of our severe winters. We cannot replace the olil forests, nor would we if we could. Wind-breaks, if placed on the .sides toward the prevailing winds will give nuiterial relief. Per- haps there is no tree better adaptei) to this pur- pose than the Norway Spruce. It is a vigorous grower, and what is desirable, it grows tall. VV'hen growing in clustei-s it presents a well-nigh impenetrable barrier to the wind. S|K'cimens planted in oiu- yard ten yeai's ago an> now thirty feet high. For a wind-break they should l)e set about four feet a|)art. Aft4'r they ha\ e attained a fair growth cut out each alternate one. Where a grove of deciil- uous trees is de- sired to shield from the heat of summer as well as the cold of winter, I would lulvise plautingllasswood or Linilen. It has ,„ „ , a rank growth and VrateringCanfmPtant*. n,akes a noble shade. Its bloom is a recognized source of lioney and its wood is always in demand. Th(' Black Walnut, Willow and (,'ottonwood have been ex- tensively planted in the West. A much larger areaof deciduous trees is required fiU' this pur- pose than witli evergreens.— Kural Home. Fall Uulching Strawberries. In the fall of ISS4 1 mulched one-half of a licld early or befoiT hard freezing, the other one-half in the fii st days of Jainiary, during a thaw that had followed a very cold spell. The result was that these last named showed ver.v few blossoms and no thrift; f>ne ripened a few very imperfect berries scarcely worth picking, while the others were as fine as I ever saw. The dividing line between the two mulchings was on four rows of Windsor Chief, and from the two mulched in time, 1 got about SO to 100 quarts i)er row, while the others did not have six boxes to the row. 1 had others, among them Capt. Jack, Manchester, Cumberland, viz., on both sides, with the same results, wdule Cres- cent Seedling came through with a fair crop, but the plants were not near so thrifty. I had a similar experience the year before but did not know the cause imtil after this second time; anil 1 shall never attempt to grow berries here with- out winter protection. Will say that our soil here is a rich, light, sandy loam, where water never stands ten houi-s on level ground after the heaviest rain.— Hcnrj- Schncll, in Kural World. The Bose Acacia for Walls. It is not commonly known what a charming effect this beautiful tree has when grown against a wallortrelli.se. Its lirauclies are so brittle that it can all the more be recommended fi>r this inirpose. 1 once saw a Uose Acacia in full bloom in early summer against a wall, which it covered, and thought that I had never before seen a wall clothed so beautifully. The racemes have the same droop- ing habit as those of the Wistaria, but their color is more pleasing and less common. This Uobinia flowers much earlier when planted against a warm wall than it does when grown as a stiindard. If a large space on a wall cannot lie afforded, then the Uose Acacia may be advantageously planted against a projecting buttre.ss, which it will adorn in a charming way, and may lie kept within bounds by hard pruning. This is out; of the many hard.v flowering shrubs suitable for covering walls, and full advantage is ccitainly not taken of it. The Uose Acacia is a common shrub in tive nui*scries, and is inexpensive. There arc few varieties of it. - London Garden. Water Can for House Plants. I want to tell .vou how we water our house plants in the bay window. I took a .small tin pad and had a small tin tube soldered on close to the bottom, to ex- tend out parallel with the bottom, then took about two feet of one-quarter inch rubber tulie drawn tightly on the tin spout (total cost twenty cents), then with the pail in one hand and the end of the tulx- in the other, pinching the tube to stop the flow, to go from one pot to another, ciui reach all the plants with eiuse, and with less dan- ger of breaking them, and with a little practice can hold the pail a little higher to make the pres- sure and spray the foliage equal to a rose on a garden plot.— (_'orr. \'ick's Magazine. Herbs for General Use. In planting Ik' guided by the requirements of the liousehoid. The fol- lowing herbs are tho.sc> most generall.v u.sed, and a moderate .stock of each should lut planted in the Brst instance, namely, Basil, <'urled Chervil, Fennel, Hyssop, sweet and [Kit Marjoram, Mint, Sage, Winter and Summer Savory, Sorrel and Thyme. The whole of these, with the exception 202 POPULAR GARDENING. June, of the Mint, may lie raised from seerl obtainable from any <>f the principal seedsmen, and the seed may be sown under ghiss or in the oi>en. As you are anxious to obtain phmts stning enough to furnish su]>pliesas (|uickly as p0,000 tonsdaily cQnsumi)ti; Lady 10 votes; Empire State and Pocklington .^ each; Duchess and Martha 4 each; Hayes 8; and 1~* othersone or two votes each. For best three red Grapes Brighton stood first, Delaware second, Ulster Prolific third. For hhte or h^a^/c, Worden stood first. Goncord second. Wilder third, an