UMASS AMHERST * 31EDbt. D2a7 261.1. in ^^'^^ '^■ . ^ ^v ^"^ ^ff/ r«b^- 10-/1 0 LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE SOURCE.^. Co\\,e=^e..„jj:u.i\as \.'A^ This book may be kept out TWO WEEKS only, and is subject to a fine of TWO CENTS a day thereafter. !t will be due on the day indicated below. MAY 1 4 1926 MAY 2 6 1930 AN ILLUSTRATED PERIODICAL DEVOTED TO Horticulture in all its Branches. CONDUCTED BY Elias A. Long, Author of ''Ornamental Gardening for Americans" '' The Home Florist" Etc., Etc. Ye field flowers! tl^e gardeiis eclipse you 'tis true; Yet, wildings of riature, I doat upor\ you; For ye waft rrie to surrimers of old, Wher\ the earttj teem'd arouqd nqe with fairy delight, Aqd wfieri Daisies and Buttercups gladden'd my sight, Like treasures of silver and gold. — Campbell. Volume 6, 1890 = 91. BUFFALO, N. Y. Popular Gardening Publishing Co. -^ INDEX N- TO Vol. VI OF Popular Gardening. Ahutilons for Sum- mer Beds 173 Agricultural Prosper- ity, Era of 54 Alfalfa tor Pasture. . . 81 Alpine Strawb y Seed 41 Aloes, The 92 AJtlisea, The 231 Amaryllis Treatment, 193, 215, 184 Amaryllis Balli .. ..69 Amaryllis Propagat'n 61 Amateur Hort.Soc'ty, Springfield. Mass. .. 12 Amateur, Who is an.. 218 Amateur's Notes ... .93 Amazon Lily .165 Am. Pom. Soc'y Meet- iug 108 Ammonia for House Plants 154 American Pomo. Soc.242 Anemone, Pink Japan\4G AnemoLe, Crown or St. Bridget's 29. 69 Annual P lowers .. ..153 A' nuals. Curious 90 Annuals. Belection of. 88 Another In'ctWeapon 83 Ants and Trees 8u Anthrax Killing Cut Worm 6 Apple Crop in Eng. . . 15 Apple Pudding 16 Apple Crop, Next Y'r 63 Apple Tree, Large. . . T8 Apple Scab,About,74, 137 Apple Pi- 78 Apple is King (poem). 52 Apple Snow 118 Apple and Custard . 128 Apple Fritters 138 Apple Curculio 182 Apple Culture, Points in 245 Apple Butter 249 Apple Varieties for Missouri 151 Apple Trees, High or Low Headed ...205 Apple Evaporating Business 220 Apple, Porter 149,215 Apple, The Linn. .164 Apple, Weeping 72 Apple, Propagat'n of 19U Apples for Maine. 82 Apples in Nebraska. 157 Apples and Bread and Muk 846 Apples, Do They Pay.lS* Apples, Outlook for.. 1 Applets, Take Care of. 10 Al'Ples, Gathering.. 16 Apples, New Seedling 88 Apples, Nova "^cotia. 98 Appl»^8, Russian . . 23 Apples, Sun Drying. .213 Apples. Suu Scald of 323 Apples, Va.ieiies of 78, 142 Apples. Heavy Man- Ufiug for 94 Apples, Evaporated Export 23 Apricot on Marianna.121 Apricots, Russian. 6o, 101, 120 April (poem) 123 Aquatics in Flower Garden 159 Arabis Alba 195 Arbor Day 72, 123 Arbor Day in Austra- lia... .133 Arbutus, 1o Grow .. 171 Arbutu8,The Trailing 132 Arsedy..l40 Cutworm Enemy. 6 Cut Flowers, Keeping Fresh 159. 196 Cut Flowers. Fresh'g.202 Cut^gs, An Amateur^s Way of Boot ing... 219 Cuttings, Rooting — 174 Cyclamens, Best 92 Cyclamens, Cinerar- ias, Primulas, etc. .. 121 D Dahlias, Grow More . . 174 Dahlias, Race of New Dwarf 164 Damping off in Green- house 162 Dandelion (poem) — 154 Dandelionsfor Greens 19, 41, 201 Daphne Cneorum 188 Daphne, Jap Blue . . .'202 Dates in U S 136 Dec. Thoughts, Some. 56 Decorat'n Day (p'm).154 Despondency, Feel'gs of 145 Dewberry White 163 Dibber. A Wheel '201 Dictamnus or Fraxin- ella 32 Dictionary, A New... 241 Digger, A Steam 184 Dill for Digging Cu- cumbers . . 249 Distance in Planting Trees 134 Ditches, Objections to Open 34 Dogs and Fowls ... 39 Dracaanas, Propagat- ing 102 Drain Tiles, Roots in. 134 Dr'nage for Orchards 12 Dr'nage in Quicksand 19 Drainage 58 Drainage.Surface and Subsoil .. 80 Drainage,Advantages 15 Drouth, The Sea80n's.l89 Drumhead Lettuce... 24 E Earthworm in Africa.118 Early Eggs 36 Early Grtpes 231 Earliest Crops, Pre- parations for 29 Easter Trade in Flo's. 86 Ebony, American in R. 1 73 Editors in Garden — 174 Egg Plant, Fried 16 Eggs, Preserving 38 Electric Light on Plants 98 Elder Leaves Dying, Golden 19 Elder Leaves 152 Elder Bloom (poem). .196 Elders lor Ornam'f.. 152 Electrict Lip't & Pl'ts.241 Elm in Autumn . ..10 Elm, The American. .129 Endive Salad 17 Endive for Salad ..160 Epiphylluma, Care of. 81 Escbtscholtzia at Home 75 Eucalyptus in Cal 166 Eulalias. About 23 Evaporator, A Home- made 178 Evaporator, A Cheap and Good 245 Evaporat'g Raspb's. . 184 Evaporat'g Apples for Profit 2i» Evening Star Flower. 155 Evergreen Flact'g in August 218 Evergreens for Wind- BreaK 163 Evergr* ens for Plains 12 Evergr'ns in Summer 29 Evergreens for Iowa. 134 Evergreens for Lawn 179 Evergreens for Pro- tection 243 Evergreens, Setting in Fall 83 Evergr'ns, Prop'fjat'g. 102 Evergreens, Hardy in Mass 135 Evergr's, Transprt'g.l63 Evergreens, Quick Growth in 211 Evergrns, Transpl'l'g and Pruning 222 Evergr'ns, Reeky Mt.221 Everlasting Peas 1S7 Everlastings ... 196 Exhibits, Arranging. .240 Exhibit'g, Profess'nal for Prize Money . . 38 Exochorda grandifl'a. 19 Experience Meeting.. 33 Experiment Stations. 23 Kxperim ts,HowThey Tell 174 Fair, Exhibit at N. J. 54 Fair, Flowers at Ohio 54 Fall Web Worm and Tent Caterpillar. .2.30 Fallen Leaves (poem) 72 Family Chat. A . . 53 Farms, Voices trom . . 48 February (poem) 83 Feed Suited to Plant. 196 Female Stronger than Male 68 Fern Case, Nice Pl'ts for 133 Fern, The Sword 117 Fern, A Shaking ... 33 Ferns in (j}reenhou8e.l82 Ferns as House Pl'ts. 95 Ferns for House 37 Ferrets 88 Fertile Lands, How to Keep 76 Fertilizer Experim'ts. 65 i?ertilizers. Home- made 100 Fertilizers, Greenh'se 56 Fertilizat'n.Commet'l 94 Fitla Notes of Hort .12& Field Notes oraHort.2S5 Fig Cake 138 Fig Grow'g at South. 180 IITID E]2t. Fig, Welcome to the. 34 Filbert Growing, U.S. 136 Filberts, Eng., from Seed 120, 119 Flavor in Fruit, etc. .208 Flax Flowers, (poem).240 Flower Missions 13 Flower Show by Chil- dren 94 Flower Pit, Cheap .... 227 Flower Notes 220 Floiver Shoto Stage ,209 Flower Cult're, Secret o( Success 241 Flowers in London Market 138 Flow's for Decorat'n. 33 Flowers 92 Flowers Cost 92 Flowers Com's Slowly 63 Flowers for Enthusi- asts 30 Flowers as Educators 34 Flowers for Perfume. 117 Flowers, My (poem).. 218 Flowers, Good Use of .196 Flow's, Pleasure fr'm 94 Flowers, Corners in. .137 Flowers, Wild 136 Flowers, Reviving Flowers, Book on Flowers, Effects of. . 52 i lowers, Hardy, in Masses 30 Flowers, Stimulating Love for 34 Flowers, Artificially Colored 193 Floral Snow 240 Floral Societ's of Cal. 34 Floral Mission of Bos- ton 34 Floral Door Mat 90 Florists' Club of Phil. 12 Florists' Convention, Boston 7 Florists, Meeting of. 231 Florida, Sub Tropical Exposition 34 Fly Nuisance,Rem'dy 19H Foliage Plants 154 Forestry in Northw't.l57 Forcing House 198 Forcing Fruits, 17, 39, 59, 79, 99, 119, 139, 161, 203, 225 Forestry, American . . 53 Fowls in Garden 224 Fraxinella at Home . . 32 Freesia Culture, 29, 182, 227 Freesiss After Brm'g.l84 French Stock, TretiS Budded on 162 Frost vs. Smoke 20 Frost & Flo rs, (poem)240 Fruit Crops, Second. 118 Fruit Prospects 112 Fruit Garden, The Family 113 Fruit N t's, S. Miller's 27 Fruit List, Ont. Fruit Growers 27 Fruit Growers, Points for 64 Fruit Farm, Making Pay 64 Fruit Trees.Ornam't'l for Lawn 46 Fruit Trees for Roads 92 Fruit Failure 22, 87 Fruit Garden, Oct.. 17, 39,59,79,99,119, 139, 161, 181, 202, 225 Fruit Exchanges 171 Fruit Outlook 165 Fruit Growing, Sixty Years of 149 Fruit Packages 156 FYuit Packing Press. 201 Fr't Growers' Outl'k.!!07 Fruit Packages, At- tractive 207 Fruit Trees, Propaga- ting 207 Fruit Cann'g Exhibit 218 Fruit Crop Report. . . .229 Fr't Notes from Lake Erie Region 210 Fruit Pudding 224 Fruit Culture, Practi- cal Points in 136 Fruit Exports and Im- ports.. 235 Fruit Tree Seeds. .289 Fruit Trees, Cultiv'te.24U Fr'tTree8,Wrap'gon. 97 Fruit. Honest, Hon- estly Packed 134 Fruit, Dried Bleached 9" FV't, Rem'kable Eng. 82 Fruit, State Best I2U Fruit. Foreign Ship ments 54 Fruit, This should be More Grown 252 Fruit, Potash for 48 Fruit. Sulphuring — 57 Fr^it-hous's d- Rooms.2ib Fruit, Garden and Or- chard, Sept .. 247 Fruits on Ten Acres.. 13 Fruits, Hardy for N. Illinois 41 Fruits, New 33 Fruits,Good In C,N.Y.U4 Fruits, Good, Profita- ble 127 Fr'ts, Improvem't in. 136 Fruit8,Overproduct'n.l71 Fruits.Small.and Veg- etables 89 Fruits, Small 68 Punkia, Blotched ... 90 Fuchsia, All Whli«...112 Fuchsia, Ailing.. 182, 163 Fuchsias and Pelar- goniums 218 Fuchsias Dropping. . .101 Fuchsia Greenhouse Culture ..244 Fuchsias, Best Six... 224 Fuchsias, How are the Winter 11 Fuel, Raising Wood for 74 Fungous Diseases. 59, 196 G. Gaps, mi out 224 Garden Ailing 41 Garden Devices, Eng. 129 Garden Intruders 46 101 1 Garden Success and 80 Failure 228 Garden, Harrow for.. 163 Garden, No Place for Trees 154 Garden, Planting A . . . 138 Garden, Skin Boauti- fier in 53 Gardens in Wash'gt'u.241 Gardens, Improved.. . 52 Gardening Hints .... 131 Gardening Profitable. 38 Gardening Pays .... 171 Gardening for Health 94 Garden'g, Does it Pay. 145 Garden'g, Gladstone on 76 Qarland Flower, The 188, 215 Genista or Cytisus 36 Geraniu's. Some Fine. 133 Geraniu's, Soue Fine. 237 Giant Daisy 25 Ginseng Koot.162, 21f,249 Girdling tor Fruit — 2u4 Gishurst Compound.. 2'i4 Gladioli, List of Best. 42 Gladioli, The Newer, 8,83, 113 Gladiolus, Satisf act'y . 172 Gladiolus, Planting. . . 132 Gladiolus, Californi'n 72 Qladiolus. Improve- ment in Europe 70 Glass, Tinted 94 Glass Structure, De- fined 73 Gloxina Culture 198 Grape Anthracnose . . 163 Grape Fruit as Tonic. 223 Grape Protecfg Bags 21" Grape 'Vine, Best for Sitting 220 Grape Post, Iron . . .201 Grape Vines Around Houses 201 Grape Growing, Ama- teur in City Lots...WB Grape Pruning and Training in Iowa. .115 Grape Juice Unfer- mented - 12,220 Grape Jelly IB Grape Grow'rs Happy 1 Grape Vine Tomato Gall 19 Grape Culture 36 Grape Rot Controlled 32 Grape Growers' As- sociation. W. N. v.. 34 Grape Discussion — 54 Grape Rot, Copper for 74 100, 101. 176 Grape Vine Branches Rooting . . 80 Grape Pruning, bd, 81, 100, 114, 178. 220 Grape Sultana 248 Grape, Gre'n Mount'n 174 Grape, The Colerain. .174 Grape, Green Mount'n and Winchell 215 Grape, Best for Home. 120 Grape, Catawba. . .. 98 Grape, Clinton not Bear 100,120 Grape. Report on N. Y . Crop 47 Grape, Winchell or Green Mountain .. . 231 Grapes in Nebraska. .158 Grapes Vines. Man- agement of Hardy. .177 Grapes at Lake Keukain Grapes Dri'd & Rais'ns 86 Graces in Kansas. ... 95 Qrapes Selling to ad vantage 6 Grapes in Florida. ... 14 Grapes for Early Mar- ket 60 Grapes and Soil 67 Grapes vs. Wheat 54 Grapes in Mass 69 Grapes. Keeping. ... 32 Grapes, Fertilizer for. 40 Grapes, Some Fine... 2;3 Grapes, Norfolk 16 Grapes, Some Ideas on 83 Grapes, Dead Animal for 118 Grapes, None in West . 1 18 Grapes, Heavy Crops of 118 Grapes. Enemies of Hot House 114 Grapes, Monograph on Native 136 Grapes, the Banana of North 126 Grapes, Cost of Spray- ing 183 Grapes, Cop'r Mixt're.l84 Grapes, About Bag- ging 1 84 Qrapes, Grasshop's»£.174 Grapes, Protect'g From Wasps 170 Grapes, Three Best... 156 Grapes, New and Old. 157 Grapes, Insects on Hothouse 156 Grapes. Quality in ...a20 Grapevine Monstrous. 72 Grapery. Builoing a 173, 192 Grading Fruits 214 Grafting Fruit Trees.. 163 Gratt'g Piece or Wh'le Root 12 Graft'g Wax, A New. 112 Grass, Pampas 58 Grasses, Ornamental. 77 Grave Decoration . 241 Gravel Boxes 78 Greenhouse Construc- tion and Heating . . 20 Greenhouse Benches Repairing 37 Greenhouse Arrang't 37 Greenhouse Shelves, Preserving 218 Greenhouse, Heating Small ...41,316 Grcen/ioitse, Cold ... 50 Greenhouse. Building and Managing 74 Greenhouse, Muslin Covered 84 Greenhouse, a Pleas- ing Jiome 195 Greenhouses for Flor- ists 221 Greenhous's, Boston's 68 Greenhouses, Value for Recreation 132 Greenhous's, Wrinkles in 245 Green Fly, Reme'y tor 60 Green Fly, Killing. .101 Green Frogs 92 Gr'n Tomato Pickles. 246 Geranium, Blue 32 Geranium, Zulu . .132 Geraniums, Big 72 Germination, on Seed . 148 Golden Rod, National weed 10 Gooseberry Cuttings. . 60 Gooseberry, Culinary.l6U Gooseberries in Mich. 199 Gooseberries, Prun'g.201 Gooseber's. Money in. 194 Good Stock, Advan- tage of 123 Gophers and Bird Dogs 193 Gopbers,Extermina'g.l51 Ground Ivy, Verieg'td 124 Ground Cherry, The 170 Grounds, Arranging. 44 Grouping in Planting. 9 Grubs, White, Rem'dy 52 Grub, White in Straw- berry bed 22) Gypsy Moth Com'is'n.180 Gypsy Moth 15 Hibbard, Shirley, The Death of 73 Hickories, Grafting.. 49 Highbush Blueberry, Propagate 249 Hints from the Orch'd and Garden 241 Hoe Handle Attach- ment 159 Hollow Trees. Cause. 10 Holtyh'k Disease, Neiu 57 Hollyhock Rust 174 Home Improvements, Gr'ter Eff ts Needed 5 Home Market . . 127, 134 Home Floriculture. .113 Home and Village Im- provement 152 Home, Name Your. . . 52 Honeysuckle Culture. 61 Honeysuckle, Tarta- rian 224 Hops, Refuse as Man- nure 248 Rorticult'e I's Intemp. 37 Horticulture Boom'g 233 Hort. Under Glass.. .179 Horticulture, Blessg's 13 Horse Radish Culturp.227 Horse Radish Grater. 2'J6 Hoae Truck of Piping I9ti Hose. Repairing . ..174 Hot-house Vegetable Culture 49 Hot Hou.ie, Small .... 101 Hot Bed Arrange' ts.. 100 Hot- bed Manure. K'p- ing from Ht ating. . . 87 Hotbed, Cover for.. .142 Hot beds Heated by Water 200 Hotbed Heated With Steam 237 House Plants, Best... 33 House Plants, 16, 38, 58, 78, 98, 118, 138, 160, 189, 202, 224 346 House Pl'ts in Winter 76 Houses, Trees Near.. 62 How in Garden 15 Hoya as a Tree 62 Hoya or Wax Plant .206 Huckleberry Pie 58 Huckleberries, Culti- vation of. ... 41, 74 Hyacinths Forc'g Out of Ground 61 Hybridizii g. On 66 Hydrangea Otaksa. ..208 Hydrangea Panicula- ta, Propagating — 80 Hydrangea as Tree.. 10 Hydrangea. Climbing 7 Hydrangea, t tellata Fruit 16 Hydrangea, Prop't'g. 52 Hydrangea, A Fine... 33 Hydrangeas 36 Hardy Apples and Ptars 13 Hardy Plants in Win- dow 33 Hardy Growths for Lawn 114 Hanging Baskets ... 164 Hanging Baskets, Plants for 218 Hardening off 150 Harvesting Orchard Fruits 198 Hayes Estate,Visit to 8 Health by Horiicurre.113 Hedge for Damp Scil.lOl Hedge Fence 97 Hedge Plants 131 Hedge, A Good 53 Hedge, Trim'g Cedar. 61 Hedge, Beautiful ... 93 Hedges, Good Word for 97 Heliotrope. The 1 79 Hellebore.'for Spray'g 163. 160 Helleborus for Hor- ists 31 Hens Lay'g in Wint'r. 79 Hen Manure.. Itil Herb Bed 1 Herbs in Garden. ... 83 Heuchera, American. 10 Labels, Tasty Tree and Plant 1.33 Labels. Preserving Wooden 249 Land Measuring 163 Land, Wet. 78 Land. Less and More Profit 32 Lands, To Keep Fer- tile ,74 Landscape. Garden'g. A New Work on ..350 Langsbans in Market. 39 Lawn Grats Prices. .165 Lawn Grass Tests ...166 Lawn and Flow'r Gar- den. 16, 38. 58, 99, 78, 118, 138, 150, 160, 203, 234, 247 Lawn Mak'g by Piece- meal 195 Lawn, Weeds on.,.. 4 Lawn. The Ideal 154 Ijawn, Manure for . . . 163 Lawn, Plants for. ..189 Lawn, Native Gro'ths.144 Lawn, Impoverished. 120 Lawn, Hardy Qr'wths for 114 Layering Grapes, etc. 163 Leaf Curl of Peach... 37 Leaf Forms, Techni- cal Names 136 Leaf Mold for Pott'g.l82 Leaf-cutting Bee . . 348 Leafmold 154 Leaves, Rotten 183 Le Conte Stocks for Blight 98 Lemon Custard Pie.. 118 Lettuce Patch 34 Lettuce, Forcing. 174, 236 Lettuce, Preventing Mildew 15 Lifting Plants 227 Lily of Valley,Plant'g 81 Lily of Valley,Forc'g.l01 Lily of Va lley Cult're .183 Lily. The Sioamp 116 Lily, Swamp (Super- bum) 129 Lily, Belladona 182 Lily, Amazon 154 Lily, Plantain 154 Lily,The Great Fairy.155 Lilies, Propagation of. 61 Lilies, Late Summer. 97 Lima Beans 24 Limas. The Bush 223 Lime for Insects 80 Lime as Fertilizer .. 89 Linnceus Monument .^'Al Little Mountaineer. .. 97 Lucky Missouri 83 Locust and Catalpa .114 Lotus, Egyptian 112 Illinois Horticultur- ists 111,129 Importing Plants. . 154 Ind. Horticulturists ..114 Insect & Fungi Rem- edies 156 Insects of June 170 Insects, Engl'h Treat- ment 88 Insects, Shall they Whip Us 86 Insects,Breed'g torEx 97 Insects, Scale 52 Insects. Species of — 53 Ins'ts.Scientiflc Fight- ing 209 Insecticides. Caution 174 Insecticides, About... 170 Inulas, Glandular and other Ill Iowa Horticulture.... 157 Iris Susiana 40, 61 Iris, Root Decay in. .340 Iris, The Poor Man's Orchids '218 Irrigation for Garden. 78 Ivy is Hardy 83 January (poem) 63 Japanes Miniature Gardening. .. .11, 29 Jerusalem Cherry .... 1 6 J udges. Lb dii 8 as — 198 June (poem): .. 105,174 Juneberry Soil 90 Juneberry. Western . . 3 Juneb'y,The Dwarf, i, 49 Kansas, Cherries for. 177 Knapsack Sprayer.. .193 Karr. Alphunse.. ... 53 Kentucky CrffeeTree.154 Kerosene Emulsion, 162, 193 Kerosene Fumes... 61 Killing Superabund't Trees 183 Kohl Rabi, Mashed... 180 Kerosine Emulsion, Soft Soap in 349 91 Magnolia Hypoleuca.203 Mahonia 138 Maneo in United St's.l36 Manage of Raspberry and Blackberry 143 Manettia Bicolor... 249 Manilla Paper for Plants 154 Manure, Clover for. . . 74 Manure, Keep'g Horse 81 Manure,Apply'g Hen.130 Manure, Stable for Garden 117 Manure. Value of. ... 98 Manure, Best Plan for Using 98 Man're tor Fr't Trees.248 Manure, Chemical for Pot Plants 249 Manures, New Book on 218 Manures, Chemical for Apples 118 Manuring, Fall 37 Manuring, Green. .23 Manuring, Green and Bacteria — 115 Manuring, Nature's Method 133 Map'e Leaf Gall 18 Maple Tree Borer... 205 Maples, Japanese , . . 132 March Wind (poem). 103 Marianna Stock for Peaches 337 M \rigolds, Scotch . . 132 Market Gardening Re- quisites 135 Market Gardening tor Young Men 109 Market, The Best. ... 201 Marketing a Trade ..112 Marketing Fruits. Co operation in 34 Marker, A Handy Soil 192 May (poem) ..145 Mealy Bug 100, 101 Measuring Land . .. 138 Medlar 3'33 Meehan's Monthly. .154 Meetings, Coming.. "209 Melia Azedarach 40 Melon, Emeral Gem.. 165 Melon Vines, Pinchi'g Ends 249 Melons for Market ... 158 Mezereon Pink 188 Mich. Fruit Growing. 76 Mich. Fruit Outlook.. 237 Mice in Hotbed .. ..123 Mignonette in Pots.. .206 Mimuluses .. 7 Mirrors for Exbibit'ns 72 Missouri Hort. Meet'g 54 Missouri Fruit Notes. 314 Missouri Botanical Garden Report 319 Mock Orange, Dwarf. 32 Mock Orange, Gor- don's 103 Mole Must Go, The... 171 Mole. The Gardeners' Friend 75. 139 Moles and Gophers. ..151 Moles, Tar for 151 Montbretia Potsii... 12 Moonflower, The. .174 Moody, Elisha. The Death of 165 Mo.Ornamei tals for 176 Mo.. Horticult in . . 66, 114 Mountain Fleece 173 Muck. Value of. .118, 180 Mulching Trees. 118 Mulching in Summer. 165 Mulberry Jelly . . . . 224 Mulberry as Hedge. . .205 Musa Ensete.Seed of. 184 Mushroom Growing, 41, 170, 183 Mushroom, Large ... 92 Mushrooms in Fields. 97 Mushrooms Manufac- tured from Turnips. 10 Mushrooms, Manure for 249 Mushr'ms Scalloped. 118 Mushrcoms, Stuflfed..l38 Mushrooms. How to Grow . . 155 Musk Melon, Hacken- sack 118 Musk, Support tor. . ..196 Myrica Cerifera 140 Myrtle, A Historical. 32 Nails, Driv'g in Trees. 37 Naming, The Correct, of Plants 103 Narcissus Blighting.. 208 Narcissus, Earlier His- tory of 35 National Flower, The.175 NationaliFlower Ques- tion 145, 197 Neatness in Gardens and Lawns 176 Nebraska Horticult .. 157 Nest Box, Cat-proof .m New Fruits 157 New Fruits, How we Get 243 New Jersey Hort.Soc. 56 New Tariff, Effect on Horticulture 4 Niagara Co. Notes — 4 Nicotiana Colossea..Hi Nirembergia Gracilis. 133 Nitrateor Soda... 61, 53 Nitrate of Soda on To- matoes 196 Nitrogen Gatherers.. 115 Nomenclat're Reform 43, 136 Norway Spruce Stock. 123 Notes from Popular Garden'g Grounds, 2, 24, 44, 166, 319 Novelty Business. . . 151 November Rain (p'm) 32 Nursery Stock, Sell'g.l90 Nursery Products at World's Fair. . .. : 11 Nursery Syndicate... 43 Nursery Stock, Select- ing and Planting... 89 Nursery, A Tropical.. 72 N ursery. The. Home . . 189 Nurserym's Convet'n.loO Nut Culture 218 Nut Planting 246 Nuts for Planting . . 67 Nuts, Planting 169 O. Oaks for Ornament. 241 Occupation, A New. . . 43 Oct. Flowers (poem). 10 Ohio State Hort. Soc. 34 Ohio State Jair 34 Okra Coffee 224 Oleander Scale 183 Oleander Poisonous.. 97 Oleander Not Flower- ing 81 Olive Industry. . . 138 Olive, Japan Witd.ib, 49 Onion Soup 138 Onion Recipes 118 Onion Maggot 117 Onion, Another New Culture 128 Onion, Egypt. Wint'r 226 Onion, New Culture.. 248 I i>r X) E3: Onions and Strawbr's. 40 Onions for Sets. . 163, 228 Onions from Top Sets. 182 Onions for Proflt. .123 Onions 3,78,81, 61 Onions, Keepi'g.l9, 29. 60 Onions, Boiled 53 Onions,Prizetaker.80, 109 Onions, 2,000 Bustielg per Acre . . 43 Ont. Fruit Growers. . .189 Orange Crop 94 Orange. Otaheite 174 Orchard Soil 101 Orchard Care 156 Orchard, Crops in 137 Orchard, The (poem) 196 Orchard, Feed the. . .170 Orchards, Manuring Bearing — 54 Orchards, Oood and Otherwise 97 Orchids Not Bloom 'g.l40 Orchids for Everyone 69 Orchids, Singular 93 Orchids, What are... 62 90, 111 Orchids, A Valuable Collection of 112 Ornam'l Trees, Grow.156 Ornamental Home Planting 136 Ornamental Horticul- ture in America . 197 Osage Orange Killing.205 Outdoor Plants. Wat- ering 228 Overproduction of Fruitsa Myth 203 Pseonies Ailing 183 Pansy Seed. Pure. 183,204 Fandanus Utilis Cul- ture 205 Papaw. The 74 Park. Mount Morris.. 333 Park. Jeanette. N. Y. 58 Park, Phoenix ... 175 Park. A National in Minnesota 198 Parks.Rochester.N.Y. 50 Parks, Taste for 10 Parsley in Winter 62 Parsnips, Keeping — 16 Paris Green or London Purple 163 Paris Gr'n, Comp. of. 40 Parffln Oil for Insects. 137 Parasites. Save the. ..203 Passion Flow'r.Hardy 16 Passion Vine. Winter- ing 236, 206 Pay, Things That Don't 191 Peach Gum 16 Peach Borer ...114, 162 Peach on Plum. 28,121 ,249 Peach Seedling ..,28, 83 Peacb Pit Planting. .. 38 Peach Yellows 27 Peach Yellows.Potash for 176 Peach Trees.Death of. 189 Peach. Peninsula Yel- low H4 Peaches in Illinois — 94 Peaches in South, Pruning 94 Peaches and Potatoes. New Blood 86 Peaches for Fruit and Proflt 191 Peaches at Niagara.. 33 Peaches. Thin the . . . 176 Peaches, Best 13 Peaches. Soil for 12 Peaches. Wager and Willow 131 Peanut Crop 240 Peanuts. Bleached... 78 Pear Midge 237 Pear Growing 114 Pear Trees, Bodies Ailing 40 Pear Trees, Pruning.. 80 Pear, Fitawater 91 Pear, Kieffer from Shps 163 Pear, Promising Early 88 Pear, Kieffer Yet Pop- ular 160 Pears in W. Michigan. 12 Pears on Apple Tree ,149 Pears on Quinces 100 Pears—Ginger 16 PearsiDuchess 78 Pears. Grapes A'g,81. 112 Pears, for Market 63 Peas Garden 138, 160 Peas, Pickling 174 Pea. Strata^m 20 Pecan Graftmg 100 Pelargoniums ... .14, 206 Pepper. Red 79 Pepper, Celestial . ... 43 Perennials from Seed. 194 Perennials After Bl'og IS Persim'n, Propagat'g.l63 Petunia, Striking Cut- tings 196 Petunias, Yellow- throated 29 Petunias, Doabliogof. 67 Phlladelphus, Gor'n'slOJ Phlox Drummondll21,173 Phlox, Perennial 201 Phloxes, Hardy ... .31 Phosphate no Humb'g 77 Phj/salis Alkekengi . . .170 Pine Straw 100,120 Pine, Pruning and Transplanting 77 Pineapples 138,180 Pitcher Plants Not Carniverous 47 Plant Show. 72 Plant Umbrellas 32 Pl't Support, Simple. 124 Pl'tProtecl'g Cloths. 129 Plant Dupes, "Japan- ese ^^ Water Plant A'i4 Plant Pit, A Good... 110 Plants and Goodness. 10 Plants Under Glass, 225, 17, 39, 69, 79, 99. 129, 181, 119,;i61,303.247 Pl'ts for Liv'g Booms.197 Plants as Liv'g Be'gs. 94 Plants Our Friends... 96 Plants for Shade . . . 81 Plants. Hardy Garden 75 Pl'ts. Heat and House 73 Plants, Shipping. . . 69 Plants.Poison in Food 54 Plants. Recent 13 Plants. Glue for 93 Plants. Good House.. 92 Plantain Lilies 151 Plantain Lily 90. 164 Plantain, Killing.... 70, 81 Planting and Select'g Stock 67 Pl't'g Trees in Aut'm. 37 PlanVg.Quick Effects210 Planting. Mistakes in. 113 Planting, Bints 4 Plaster, Land, for Onions 61 Plum Curculio 26 Plum Rot 60, 168 Plum Trees, Spray'g. 49 Plum Borer . . 61 Plum Yield 61 Plum Culture 94 Plum Bladders 239 Plum Knot. Remedy. 176 Plum, The Lombard. 198 Plum, Marianna, Cut- tings 120 Plums for Market.... 12 Plums and Cherries, Best 157 Plums for Proflt. .134, 137 Plums for Evaporat'g.249 Plums, Japanese. .97, 236 Plums, Monograph on Native 1.36 Plums, How I Saved. 127 Plums, Where to Pl't. 58 Plums. Bagging 49 Plume Poppy 49 Plumbago, Capensis. .237 Poinsettias. llow to Grow Dwarf 172 Poison in Food Plants 12 Poisonous Prt8,Abo't.l97 Polk Stalks for Gr'ns 160 PoUen, Need of 138 Polygonum, A Late Blooming 173 Pomegranate Not Flowering 208 Pomace for Peach ... 15 Pomology in N, W. ..190 Pop Corn 201, 204 Potato Rot,HiWgfor.li)2 Potato Leaf Blight ... 187 Potato Crop, The. ... 68 Potato-stalk Weevil.. 183 Potato Experiments. 179 Potato Names, Laud- atory 118 Potato Perforated by Couch Grass 841 Potatoes and Celery.. 120 Potitoes tor Seed ISO Potatoes, Late 103 Potatoes, Early 107 Potatoes, Wintering Sweet ... 19 Potatoes, Depth of Planting 20 Potatoes, 1 ,736 Bushels on Four Acres 76 Potatoes. Sweet 78 Potash as Insect Rem. 189 Pots Getting Green. . .231 Pots, Paper 184 Potted Plants. Substi- tute for 168 Poppy, California ... 75 Poultry Yard. 225. 17, 39,59,79,99, 139,181. 119, 161,203,247 Prices of Fruit 12 Primula Obconlca 202 Primroses 32,72,102 Primulas Falling 101 Proparjat'n of Plants 91 Protectors Plant 129 Pruning Screens 224 Pruning Saw 159 Pruning Root 92 Pruning at Planting.. 67 Pruning Shears 108 Pruning, Mistakes in. 138 Prunus Plssardl on Plum Seedlings 140 Prunus Simoni 80, 100 Pruners, Professional 98, 137 Pump, Portable Oar- den . 154 Purslane Tool 49 Purslane, Eradicat'g. 18 Pyrethrum Uliginos- um 30, 69 a Quality of Fruit Ap- preciated 176 Quality, Test of at Shows 82 Quince, Japan 29 Quinces for Market. . . 18 Quinces. Pears on , . 100 Quinces.Var. to Plant.143 R Rabbit, Protection from 72, 100, 121 Rabbitsand Borers,89,109 Radishes, Transpl't'g. 160 Rain, Artificial 231 Raisins and Dried Grapes 86 Raspberry Culture. ..336 Raspberry Tips 48, 66 Raspberry Blight 60 Raspberry, Everbear- ing 106 Raspberry, Brinkle's Orange 160 Raspber's In Orchard. 227 Raspberries, Test of Varieties 83 Raspberries, Time of Planting 130 Raspberries, Pruning.208 Rasp ber's.Evaporatg. 184 Rats in House 79 Reforms in Grow'g & Marketing Fruits... 134 Remedies, Nature's.. 123 Report of Lettuce .25 Resin Compound for Scale .227 Riddling Soil 103 Ridge vs Level Cult'rel48 Rhododendron ... 177, 205 Rhubarb Ailing 208 Rhubarb Planting.. 19, 60 Rhubarb in Mid-sum- mer 231 Rhubarb. Replanting.248 Roadways, Better 74 Root Grafting, Pear on Quince 348 Root Cuttings, Trees from 199 Root Pruning. . . 171, 169 Roots, Tender, to be set Deep 202 Rootless 'Trees ..115 Rosanigosa 11 Rose of Sharon . . . . 231 Rose Beetle Remedy, 74, 177, 208, 226 Rose Hedges .. . .133 Rose Establishment, Washington, D. C..131 Rose Thorns for Glaz- ing Points 131 Rose Garden, Engli.^h 102 Rose Culture 93 Rose Galls 241 Rose Growing, Canada 96 Rose, Powdery Mildew 20 Rose Under Glass ...116 Roses for Summer ...156 Roses in Pots 81 Roses Budded .. . 134,215 Roses Failing 175 Roses, Transplanting.330 Roses, Winter'g Tea. 205 Roses, etc , inNebr'ka206 Roses, Liquid Man're.208 Roses, Clay Soil for . . 102 Roses, Hardy Climb'g 117 Roses, Best Out-door.140 Roses, Root Grafting. 142 Roses, Transplanting Hybrid 61 Roses, Wintering Out- doors 248 Rotten Root 115 Rubbish, Roast of . 169 Rust, Removing . . 138 Russian Mulb's, Graft- ing 223 Russian Apples 190 Rustic Work, Petro- leum for 74 Sage Culture 120, 191 Sage, Scarlet 224 Sago Palm Culture.. .130 Salsify for Table 160 Salt, Effect of 88, 47 Salvias 206 School-yards, Flow'rs in 94 Science in Common Things 74 Scillasand Culture 9, 49 Screens, Pruning 179 Sea Holly 83 Seed Bed, Preparing.. 138 Seed Trust 63 Seed Sowing Under Glass 108 Seed, How to Raise. . . 175 Seed, Saving 240 Seed, Uncertainty of. 73 Seeds Department ... 63 Seeds. Good 77 Seedling Fruits 13 Seedsmen for Reform 12 Seedsm'n,Mlst'k's,I64,193 Seedsmen's Mixtures. 179 Shade Trees for Yard. 159 Shade Trees,Valueof.ll3 Shade, Plants for 131 Shepherdia 84 Shipping Flowers 203 Showing Chrysanthe- mums . .206 Shrubs & Trees, Cul- ture 74 Shrubs and Trees for Town 51 Shrubs. Massing of ... 21 1 Shrubs. Propa'ng. 102,347 Silvaof North Amer- ica 33 Sisley, Death of Jean. 122 Slighting Work 196 Sludgite Insecticide ... 1 54 Slugs. Catching 101 Small Fruit Notes ... 6 Small Bruits for Fairs.I83 Small Fruits, Bush ... 101 Small Potatoes 39 Small Fruit for Home 35 Smilax Reminiscenc's 93 Snake Bites in Fl'rida.SOl Snowball, Japan.... 240 Soap Suds for Trees.. 114 Society, Successful Amateur 54 Soil Effect on Color.. 138 Soil, Making Cold Warmer 49 Soja Bean 192 Solanum, New Orna- mental 51 Soot for Flowers 160 Soot Water for Plants.117 Sorrel as Salad Herb. 213 Sourkrout. Making... 60 South Haven & Casco Pomological Soc'ty. 96 Southern Plants for N. 74 Sowing and Planting. Best Time tor.. 305, 348 Spain the land of Fruit 234 Sparrows, English. 83, 175 Spiders vs. Insects. ... 90 Spinach, Long-stand'g Summer 19 Spinach, Fungous Diseases of 18, 60 SpirEeas, Pink 180 Sponge Garden . . . . 37 Sprayer, Knapsack, 83, 16.5, 151 Sprayer, A Home- made 151 Spray'g Orch'd Trees, 114 .Spraying Mixtures 148 Sprouts, Killing ....236 Spruces from Seed ... 183 Staking Trees -38 State Forest, Reserve. 70 Stations at W'ld's F'r.209 Stations Criticised 201 Stephanotis Florib'nd' 18 Stock, D'ble Flow's in.l37 Stock, Influence of, on Lite of Trees.... 198 Storing Fruits 199 Storing Vegetables. .. 16 Stumps Made Beauti- ful 113 Strawberry Tests.. 46, 89 Strawberry Mulch 19. 244 Strawberry Bed 72 Strawb'y Managem't.l40 Strawberry Enemies. 176 Strawberry Sawfly . . 205 Strawb'y Pl'ts, Sett'g.l92 Strawb'y Leaf Roller. 41 Strawberry P' Potted, 7 Strawberry Notes, 6, 28, 311 Strawberry Best for Canada 19 Strawberry Plants, Remov'g Blossoms. 41 Strawberry Beds, Pro- tecting ..60 Strawberry Bed, Re- newed 66 Strawberry Planter, A Simple 315 Strawberry Reds, Clearing 148 Strawberry Picking Stands 176 Strawberry, Hoe 231 Strawberry, Jessie... 66 Strawberry, Lida. ... 19 Strawb'y,Cresce't 169,193 Strawl)erry, Alpine Bush 18, 248 Strawberry, A Simple Planter 151 Strawberry, Michel. .215 Strawberry, Black Defiance 213 Strawberry, An Ame- teurBed 112 Strawberry, Variety of Doubtful Value. 127 Strawb'y, The Com'g.l92 Strawberries in Eng.. 56 Strawb's and Onions . 46 Strawberries for Hill Culture.40, 67, 89,87, 81 Strawberries After Same 9, 171 Strawb's vs. Grapes. .106 Strawberries in. What to set 166 Strawberries, 2nd.. 9, 106 Strawberries, Eng. ... 68 Strawb's.The New 109,191 Strawber's, Autumn. . 43 Strawber's, Terry on. 45 Strawber's for Proflt. 87 Strawberries, Corn Grown with .57 Strawberries for Mar- ket ..66. 169, 106 Strawberries, Its in Fall Planting 28 Strawberries, Some Ideas on 88 Strawberries,Clearing from Sand 165 Strawber's, Ridge vs. Level Culture 106 Strawber's in Matted Rows 344 Strawberries, Fall and Spring Plant'g, 344, 249 Strawberries Fruiting in Fall 237 Strawberries. High Culture For . . 151 Strawberries, Produc- ing New Varieties. . 165 Streams, Preserve Pure 32 Street Trees, Protect. 176 Sub-Tropical Garden. 144 Sulphate of Copper Dissolving 237 Sulph. of Copper, Test Purity 154 Sumach, The Fringed.218 Swamp Laurel 19 Sweet Corn for Home.lOl Sweet Corn, Peas, Po- tatoes, Varieties 249 Sweet Potat's, Glazed. 138 Sweet Potat's, Stor'g.249 Sweet Potatoes, 346 Stoeet Potato, Black Rot 128 Syringe, a Lemoine's.160 Tan Bark Ashes 104 Tannery Ashes 249 Taste and Tact in Ar- ranging Grounds, 36, 63, 84, 124, 166, 104, 146, 194, 216, 299 Tea Roses in Texas.. 18 The Pot Dibble 167 Thinning Plants and Fruits. 7, 32, 134, 198,202 Thorn Bushes 183 Thorns on Lawn . . 83 Tin Cans, Utilizing . . 49 Tobacco for Lawn. ..118 Tobacco Dust. . . .79, 104 Tobacco Stem Man- ure 101 Tomato Egg Plant. .206 Tomato Culture South 65 Tomato Leaf Blight.. 150 Tomato Rot 20 Tomato Cure for Dys- pepsia (poem) 10 Tomato on Potato.. 37, 89 Tomato, Forcing 237 Tomato, Early Ruby 140, 162 Tomatoes in Cal,. . 13 Tomatoes Not Fruit'g.236 Tomatoes Cracking.. 227 Tomatoes After To- matoes 138 Tomatoes, Training.. 7 Tomatoes,Forc'g.205, 213 Tomatoes, Nitrate of Soda for 165 Tomatoes, Crossing.. 83 Tomatoes, The New, 44, 69, 109 Tool, A Useful 167 Town Trees... 89, 114, 134 Town Improvement.. 92 Town Societies 156 Transplanting 116, 132 Treasures Unexp'ct'd.l33 Treatment for Quick Results 211 Tree Guards, Wire. .. 60 Tree as Land Owner .112 Tree Agents.. .. 78, 158 Tree Plantng, Worthy Example 106 Tree and Shrub De- velopment in 26 Months 210 Tree, Fine Arbor 238 Trees in Summer 175 Trees Add Value 168 Trees Around Pond.. 211 Trees Near Dwellings, 196, 206 Trees and Shrubs, Re- moving 206 Trees. Raising from Seed 261 Trees. City 78 Trees, Pruning 100 Trees.Saving Girdled . 100 Trees, Curious Places.lS! Trees, Big in Cal 137 Trees, Autumnal Ef- fects 69 Trees, Transplanting Large 81 Trees,Spring and Fall Dug 174 Trellises, How Made. 173 Trenching, Effects of. 3 Treriching, Natural.. 57 Trick of Commission Merchants 58 Tropseoleum, a New. .240 Trumpet Vine, Stand- ard 180 Tuberoses not Fl'w'r'g 71 Tulip Tree 62 Tulips After Bloom'g.l73 Tulips from Seed 162 Turnip, Best for Family .. 154 Turnips Thinning 106 Turnips for Manure. .205 Turnips as Catch Pen- ny Crop 224 Turnips, Best Swede. 226 Tumips.Strong Flav'r in 227 Vegetable Garden, 17, 39, 59, 99, 99, 139. 181, 119.161. 203,8'35, 247 Vegetable and Fruit Garden Sugge8t'ns.l06 Vegetable Novelties.. 196 Vegetables and Small Fruit 89 Veg'bles are Healthy. 118 Vegetables, Culinary. 98 Vegetables, Experi- ence w ith New 127 Vegetables, Growing for Market 161 Ventilating Apparat- us, Inexpensive . . . 223 Verbena Mildew 197 Verbenas for Winter- ing 223 Verbenas. Wintering. 40 Victoria Regia in Blm 38 Village Improvement.340 Vine Walk 130 Vines for Home Qr'ds.l34 Vineyard on Cayuga Lake 158 Vineyard. Filling Va- cancies 183 Violet. Cultivation of. 66 Violets, Eelworms In- juring 62 Virginia Creeper for Window Screen ..218 Viticult'e, Extent of 132 Wall Tile for Fence.. 58 Walks, House 81 Walks, Mak'g Garden 72 Walnut, English. 10, 137 Walnut. Black, Valu- able 202 Wasps and Fruit. 193. 218 Water Melon Grow'g. 134 Watercress Culture. 205 Water Pot, Easily-fil- ling 174 Water for Red Spider. 10 Wax Plant as Tree. . 102 Weeds in Walks 18 Weeds in Manure. 112 Weeds for Sale 118 Weeding in Winter... 128 Weeding Hoe, Home- made 179, 207, 223 Weevil, Bean 83, 89 W.N.Y. Fruit Grow '8.136 Whortleb'y.The Berry 10 White Grubs 11.6 White Pines, Topping 60 Wild Fruits 13 Wild Flower Club... 32 Wild Flow's In Bouse.154 Wild Flower, A 110 Wild Flower Associa- tion 94 Wild Flowers and Trees 152 Williams, E 63 Willow, Ring-leaved. 46, 109 Window Gardening .153 Window Plants Cov- ered 53 Window Plants Treat- ment 114 Window Pl'ts, Twelve.240 Window Gardening.. 331 Windbreak, Planting and Cost 113 Winter Requisites .. 89 Winter Garden. The. 187 Wire Net'g for Plants 16 Wistaria as Winter Bloomer 238 Wolffla microscopia..ll7 Women Florists 112 Women. Garden'g for, 303. 218 Wood Ashes. 109,121,41,81 World's Fair Horti- cultural Departm't, 63, 187, 198, 252 Yellows, Cure for 251 OcTOIiER, 1890. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. ^OXjTJ3^E3 "VI, with smiling, crimsoned, tearful face Imperial Autumn comes apace ; Her russet gown Is seen to trail Along the drowsy ridge and vale. Now scattering with her liberal hand The treasures of the teeming land. She makes the prudent squirrel laugh As though she came In his behalf. The warbler, vireo, thrush and wren Now quit the orchard field and glen And flit to southern copse or lea, While here abides the bumblebee. He does not fear the boreal sweep When mantled fields are hushed in sleep, But quickened, like a fairy thing. Will rise and welcome tardy spring. — H. Chandler. To THOSE who do not feel expert in managing flowers during the winter, we say try Hyacinths, Tulips and Crocuses in the window. Let the in- experienced choose the single varieties. Apples packed by a Michigan fruit grower in kiln-dried sand, in October of last year, came out as perfect this summer as the day they were put in. We like dry Oats for packing Apples in. Branches of the Sea Holly (Eryngium Mari- tinumi cut in October and arranged in some suitable jar without water are said to retain their form and nearly their natural color throughout the winter. Among laws on our statute book that are not enforced, we have those that order the destruc- tion of ;injurious insects. Why the farmers of New York State are more neglectful than they were puzzles me. Every year the tent caterpillar and the fall web worm are allowed to defoliate tens of thousands of Apple trees in central and western New York.— £. P. P. An important change in the refrigerating system has recently been made in Washington Market, New York. Cold air has been substituted for the use of ice. The former is furnished in the same way as heated air, by the Steam Air Heating companies. The airisrun through large street mains from cold chemical reservoirs, and is furnished to consumers by a system of small pipes, to which are attached regulators to inten- sify or diminish the degrees of cold. Good fob the Cranberry. The Secretary of the National Association of Cranberry Growers makes the statement that the crop will be at least twenty per cent larger this year than last year's crop, and will bring better prices, owing to the scarcity of other fruits. It is estimated that the new crop, to be picked after September 15th, will be 17.5,000 bushels, worth nearly $1,000,000. The reports that English capitalists are after the bogs, is discredited by the association. the original organizers of the Elmira Farmers' Club, but long before that time he identified him- self with the Grange movement in the state. It was largely due to his efforts that the New York Experiment Station was centrally located at Geneva; and he was a member of the Board of Control of that institution to the time of his death. His age was sixty-three years. The Outlook for Apples. In the great Apple growing sections of Western New York the failure of the crop is all but complete. Re- ports from Ontario, Canada, indicate a poor crop with the exception of the Russian varieties like Oldenburg, Alexander, etc. In Nova Scotia the crop is not more than one half of the usual size. The crop in Michigan is perhaps less than thirty per cent of average. In some of the counties of Connecticut a fair supply will be secured, but on the whole the crop is much smaller than usual. Missouri may help us out to some extent, both as to fresh and evaporated fruit. The crop there is estimated on good authority to be about one half of an average. There can be no doubt that Apples will be a costly article next winter. The problem where to get pie material promises to be a rather serious one until another fruit crop is secured. By the death of W. A. Armstrong, editor of the Husbandman, Elmira. N. Y., which occurred on Aug. 31st, agriculture has lost another staunch friend and indefatigable worker. He was one of Land Tillers and Politics. The land tillers of America are beginning to ask themselves as never before why should they not have better representation in running the government ma- chine. Laud tillers constitute between one-third and one-half of all those engaged in trades and professions, yet our legislative bodies are com- posed almost wholly of persons outside of agri- culture. Is it any wonder, therefore, that with the voice and votes of this conservative, common sense class so largely lacking in our halls of leg- islation, that our statute books should be full of enactments which directly or indirectly are ad- verse to the interests of the rural population? But the farmers are rousing to the situation, and through various alliances and leagues are beginning to make themselves felt in a degree somewhat commensurate with their numbers, and to make the regular politicians of the old parties tremble for results. It is more likely than not that some.mistakes will be made by this " new power " in politics, and the more so from the fact that those who compose it are mostly un- trained in this field, but the country may feel assured that in the long run the good Judgment and wisdom of the farmei-s will have a most wholesome effect in directing public affairs. It seems safe now to predict that the next Congress will contain about twenty-five soil tillers, enough to give them the balance of power. Here lies their strong hold: Not to form a new political party, but to come in as a balance of power be- tween the old parties. The farmers seem to be very generally agreed in demanding government regulation and supervision of railrf)ads, and the suppression of commercial and manufacturing trusts or combines. On some other points, such as the " Sub-Treasury Bill," the abolition of the national bauks and the regulation of the tariff, less unanimity pre\ ails. A Detroit Amateur Talks of Various Matters. Plants and Good Nature. Said a tired-looking agent to me after I had given him a chair on the front porch, " I am not afraid they will set the dog on me when I see flowers in the window. There is something in the care of plants that makes people kind-hearted. They may not buy my books, but they always give me a kind word." A lady also says, I always have something to talk about if I have plants, and when you are fortunate enough to get hold of a real plant lover, don't we make the words fly! Exchange seeds and cut- tings over the back fence and there will be no law suits. My neighbor has a lovely little girl that is always taught to give a flower to the callers at the house. Going in- to the dining room one day she saw a strange man close to the closet where the silver was kept. In her innocenee she did not think any harm, but held up a small bouquet of Mignonette and Sweet Peas and said, "Please take these and wear them," The thief (he was afterwards arrested for burg- lary) smiled, took the flowers, pinned them in his coat, and departed without the spoons. Sweet Herb Bed. Between the Petunias and Geraniums, both of them a mass of bloom and bright colors, I have a bed of Sweet Herbs. The bright green sets off their more brilliant neighbors, and my friends will stop, pluck a sweet scented leaf or two, and pass by the gay flowers. My Herb bed is useful as well as ornamental. The Lavender when dried will go into the sheet and pillow case drawers. The summer Savory and Marjoram flavors the gravies, and when dried in the sun will make the stuffings of next winter's turkeys and chick- ens toothsome. The Mint is good dipped in water and eaten with bread and butter; or with roast lamb makes a nice seasoner, with the leaves torn into small pieces, put into a cup with a spoonful of vinegar and a little sugar. Tansy in the center of the Herb bed is ornamental, and also makes a good tonic. In the Detroit flower market these Herbs are for sale in the spring well rooted, at ten cents a dozen, and you can make up the dozen by different kinds. It is better to buy the few of each kind than to plant seeds. Ferns About the House. We in America are just beginning to appreciate Ferns. They ought to be called accomodation plants, for they will bloom and make beau- tiful the most out of the way corners about the house. I know one Fern enthusiast that has a bed of them under the back porch , a place generally given up to cats and old POPULAR GARDENING. October, bones. Another lot flourishes by a celler window, the cool shaded place seems to agree with them exactly. These are Forists' Ferns, and in the fall will be carried up stairs, planted in a zinc tray, placed in a north window and covered with a glass case. Ferns flourish in the summer in the cool shaded roonLs. My friend has a large pot filled with our native Ferns in the front entry. All they seem to need, to make our Sargent's Weeping Spruce. See Page 8. homes beautiful is to bring some of the soil from the woods where they grow, and a daily watering. We cannot all have Or- chids, but Ferns can be gathei'ed by our- selves, and no costly bric-a-brac equals them for loveliness about a house. A Floral " Guide Post." Detroit public park is on an island, and contains seven hundred and fifty acres. It is being im- proved year by year, and this season much attention is given to beds of flowers and set designs. Opposite the Casino is a splendid stretch of turf to the water's edge, and in this is a design made of Coleus, and thousands of Echeverias. It is in the shape of a star with a circle in the centre, and in this are the words, " Points of the Compass." The points then in the right position have the words, North, South, East and West, respectively. And it is a real floral "guide post." Hundreds stop beside it and puzzle out the design. "Sister Gracious." fruit is large in size and, I think, excellent in quality for any use. We received it under the name of "Alpina " and have scattered it under the name of Amdaitchicr jLJpinn. But I think, it is now classed as a variety of A. ulniftilia, OT should be. The other three varieties were introduced into Iowa, I think by the returning gold and silver seekers from Colorado, Wyoming and Montana. At points in Iowa they were grown for a number of years under the name of " Bush Huckleberry." As they had no variety name as .Tuneberries we have taken the liberty of naming two of them from the parties from whom they were ob- tained viz.: the "Gardener" and "Williams." The third one was grown by many in Greene County, Iowa, and has been sent out as "Greene" or "Greene County." They are clearly varieties of A. alnifolw, though varying much in color and serra- tions of leaf. In fruit the four varieties named do not vary materially in size or quality. But they do vary several days in season of ripening and all are worthy of trial. When fully ripe the fruit is superior in quality for dessert or culinary use to many varieties of the swamp Huckleberry, and I prefer it to the Blueberry. Unless covered, the birds take the berries when they begin to color. But musquito bar coverings seven feet square will cover the largest bushes and with careful handling, and dry storage between crops, they will last several years. I will only add that of the European and Asiatic varieties we like best a variety of A. vulgaris we found bearing heavily on the grounds of the Agricultural College near Moscow. With us it bears equally well, and the fruit is nearly equal ,in size and quality to those above named, but the bush grows to a height of from ten to twelve feet with no more bearing wood than the dwarf plants. Hence it takes more room, and will be more troublesome and expensive to cover. Notes from the Popular Gardening Grounds at La Salle-on-the- Nlagara. The Dwarf Juneberry. We have but a single variety on our grounds, the Moscow, re- ceived from Prof. J. L. Budd. A branch in fruit is Illustrated on opposite page. We think highly of the Juneberry in general, and have often wondered why not more efforts have been made allow the fruit, so abundantly set on some "f the varieties, to come to its fullest development and perfection. We sometimes doubt whether all the efforts of modern propagators have made any improvement on the best of the wild sorts as we find them in old wood lots and fence cor- ners. To eat out of hand no Blackberry can be more luscious than the fine sweet berries we find growing wild The large cultivated sorts, Law- ton, Kittatinny. Erie, etc., are not even enjoya- ble when eaten out of hand, unless dead ripe. Luscious and tempting as they appear, they have too much acidity, and too much core to suit us. The bowl of sweet Blackberries, milk and bread, is a gleam of especial brightness in our remem- brance of early farm life. A bowl of the large acid fruit of our days with milk would be a most unfitting combination— if not altogether an abomination to us. The following is an account of the behavior of the varieties on our grounds the past season, which is the second after planting: Ancient Briton. Very prolific, late. Fruit of medium size, and in its sweetness resembles the wild berry. For home use we would give this the preference to most other sorts, especially to the large acid ones. Brinton (Brinton's Early) A weak grower and without a sign of fruit. Probably of no ac- count here, and not worth planting. Dehring, Dorchester and Early Cluster. Apparently early; further trial needed. Erie. Prolific; in most cardinal points not materially differing from Lawton. Season me- dium to late. The original discoverer, Mr. L. B. Pierce, tells us that on his place the bush has a different habit of growth from that of Lawton, but it did not so appear here. Berry somewhat rounder than Lawton, and like all large l)erries, acid and lacking in richness of flavor. Kittatinny. Large in cane and fruit; prolific aud generally reliable. Knox needs further trial. Lawton. Enormously prolific, almost too much so for the amount of foliage, and conse- quently for the character of the fruit. Berry of very large size . Thompson's Early. Of medium size, and fair quality and early. MiNNEWiSKi. This makes a large, hardy and healthy bush, prolific of fruit of largest size. Medium to late in season. Evidently it is the best in quality of the lot of large-fruited varie- ties. We would plant this with entire confidence both for market and home use. Missouri Mammoth. Appears to be a shy bearer of somewhat imperfect fruit. Season early to medium. Early Kino needs further testing. Appar- ently a weak grower here, but from earlier ac- quaintance with it we know it to be one of the earliest Blackberries, and the fruit, though Western Dwarf Juneberry. PROF. J. I.. B0DD, IOWA AOEICULTURAL COLLEGE. During the past seven years we have bad on trial a number of varie- ties of the dwarf Juneberry from the eastern and western states, from Canada, and from various portions of Europe and Asia. The result of the extended trial can be given from a cultural stand point, in few words : Four varieties of the Amflanchicr alni- foJia type from the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains are superior in foliage, habits of bearing, and size and quality of fruit to the others from all sources. One of these we received from the moun- tains near Pueblo, Colorado. It is strictly a dwarf, not attaining on our grounds a greater height than four feet, and often bearing on stolon shoots at a height of one foot. The leaves are thick, rather large, dark in color, with quite sharply serrate edges to near the base. Its annual load of R«»irier Plantx nf Qolden Defiance Strawheii-y with Fruit in Augjist. to improve it and bring it into general cultiva- tion. The bush bears young and abundantly, and the fruit of some varieties, as we have seen them, is of quite respectable size for a " small fruit." The flavor is of the Huckleberry type- sweetish, unobjectionable, unobtrusive. Fruit ripens immediately after the Strawberry, and comes esi)ecially gratifying at that time, and after free indulgence in the acid " Queen of Fruits." In some places the Juneberry is sub- ject to the attacks of a fungus that often ruins all the fruit. Here both fruit and bush have been healthy thus far. In regard to species and varieties we refer to Prof. Budd's article preceeding this. The Blackberhy Patch. On the whole our lllackberrp crop was fair, but nothing to brag over. The foliiigo rusted badly, and did not small, of high quality, aud altogether worthy of planting for home use. Snydeb. Early; making large canes and good foliage. Stone's Hardy. Apparently prolific. The smallish fruit is the best of all in flavor, as good as the wild. Season medium. ! Taylor, itesembling Stone's Hardy In size and quality of fruit. Season early to medium. [ Wallace makes good strong canes. Fruit early. Western Triumph. Iteiisonably prolific; berry of medium size aud medium iiuality. .Season early to medium. Wii^ON is early, prolific; fruit of Lawton qualily. Wilson, Jr. We have been unable to note any difference between this and the old Wilson. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. Second Fruiting of Strawbekries. Our Golden Deflance Strawberry has behaved in a somewhat unexpected and strange manner this season. The great and only drought of this year occurred during July and August, and all plants were suffering badly. The runners grew slowly and weakly, and seemed to have little show for getting a foothold in the soil. The great majority of the runners of the Golden Deflance appeared as here illustrated. Every second plant on each runner produced bloom and fruit freely in appearance. The Blackberry crop was not the success we had hoped owing to the severity of the drouth. Sweet and other Corn which started off so badly, has picked up amazingly of late, and the same may be said of all vegetation of late growth. The Effect of Trenching. That great ad- vantages attend the deep digging over of garden soil can require no clearer proof than is offered by the lines that have been dug up across these grounds for receiving underdrains. The drains the extent in this line. How these beds of bright appearance have been used to " cap off " the arrangments of hardy flowers and shrubs which average less showy, we will explain in a future issue. For the present attention is in- vited to the most showy bed on the grounds, and how inexpensive it was to obtain. It is the largest bed of tender plants on the place being round and fourteen feet in diameter. It was planted with thirty Canna roots, that had been started in heat in the spring, and with about Tioig of The Dwarf Juneberry of Moscow, as sketched life-size on the Popular Gardening Orcmnds. August, and the fruit, although of medium size, had the true delicious Strawberry flavor. One or two solitary instances of the same kind were noticed among other varieties. The Onions, We were again well pleased with the White Barletta as a pickling Onion. We know none better for this purpose. With us they ripened early, being well capped by the middle of July. They must be planted thickly in spreading rows. The very largest specimens were only about one and a half inches in diam- eter; while the average was perhaps less than an inch. They are pure white, and decidedly hand- some, just the thing for pickling. We note that Prof. W. J. Green, of the Ohio Experiment Station also speaks very favorably of them; and they deserve it. The Prizetakcr(an Americanized Spanish Onion) has been grown on our grounds to quite an ex- tent this season. Our appeal to seedsmen for seed of a variety that would outyield the Frize- taker has resulted in our planting quite a num- ber of the " crack " sorts of recent introduction, the Silver and Spanish Kings, Ivory Balls, Vic- torias, etc., but there is none that can compare with the Prizetaker in yield. We believe that to grow 2,000 bushels per acre is quite within the reach of possibility for a good cultivator, and that only the seven-weeks drought during the period of growth when moisture was needed more than at any other time, has prevented our crop from coming very close to that flgure. We shall try again for a2,000 bushel crop. At another occasion we shall tell the particulars of our mode of culture that is expected to give such an extraordinary result. We would, however, not dare to hope for obtaining such crop except with the Prizetaker. The Drocth Past. The drouth which has been reported so severe during July and later, wholly ended August 20th, when enough rain fell to flU many an empty cistern. Since that storm rains have been frequent, until now, all vegetation shows an improved appearance over a month ago. and our grounds throughout never looked handsomer. The lawn responded quickly to the increased moisture; where it was brown and unpleasant-looking, now it is as handsome as could be wished. Some of the newly planted trees that had such a hard struggle have taken on new life. Many of the hardy shrubs, however, in the border next to the fringe of natural wood, had Buffered so much in the leaf from dryness that they are incapable this season of improving in were laid from two to three feet deep. Their course in several instances has been across the lawn. But in every place where the ground was thus disturbed the effects were clearly visible not only during the drouth but are equally so afterwards. It must be remembered that all the land here was deeply subsoiled. Could it all have been trenched to a depth of two and a half feet, the ill-effects of the drouth would have been much lighter. Visitors comment upon the strips of fine growth across the place wherever a drain lies. To most eyes it might appear from the better showing of the vegetation that this narrow line represented an experiment in heavy manuring. It thus suggests that deep culture may in a measure be substituted for heavy manuring. Weeds on the Lawn. The best definition that has yet been given of a weed is, a plant out of place. In this sense the sprouts of some old and diseased Plum trees that were removed when the lawn was extended to that part, came under the head of weeds, and from the persistence with which they started upduringtheflrstseason after the trees were grubbed up, it was feared they might cause considerable trouble. This was the case for only one season for with having cut them down to below the earth line a number of times last year they having disappeared en- tirely. The same thing has been noticed in the case of Wild Blackberry and Raspberry plants that were grubbed up and the surface graded and put to grass. For a season sprouts started up in great numbers, but with a few times' cutting back, and then with the use of the lawn mower about all have disappeared. All this is in line with our experience in getting rid of a Thistle patch on our lawn as reported some months ago. The Plantain and its near relative the Rib G rass are our worst weeds and these we cut out with a small spud or knife. Jacqueminot Roses. On a row of some fifty plants of these set out but last spring, and late at that, some flowers here opened regularly throughout the summer, while now the number is on the increase. This variety is more prolific of late bloom than any other in our collection of hybrid perpetuals, which it should be said is not yet of great extent Among other Hoses that are now showing bud is the charming Rosa rugosa. Bedding at " Woodbanks." This is followed out on a most limited scale so far as tender plants are concerned. A small number of Geraniums, Coleus and Cannas in three or four beds being the same number of Geraniums. The Cannas were divided into six equal lots, one of which was placed in the centre of the bed the others in five equal masses to the outside and extending to the grass. Alternating with these outer blocks the Geraniums, divided into five equal lots, were set. Between the vigorous growth of the Cannas, the variety in the color of their foliage, ranging from deep chocolate to sea- green, the profusion of the yellow and scarlet flowers of these, and then the bright appearance of the thirty Geraniums covered with bloom, the bed presents a most attractive appearance The part we take the most satisfaction in re- lating is the inexpensiveness of the bed, for the Cannas are a class of flowers that any amateur can keep over as successfully as a florist, and Geraniums cost but $1 per dozen at greenhouses. On the whole the bed is a greater success than many a one of the same extent that would have cost ten times as much to stock. The improved Cannas are a class of flowers deserving of wider appreciation from amateurs. Placed in boxes of dry sand and kept from frost, the roots may be wintered and be as easily managed as those of the Dahlia. The Worden and Concord Grapes. Were we called to decide on the comparative merits of these two Grapes for home use, as based on the small show of fruit here this year on young vines, we should say that the new-comer Worden should by all means have the flrst place. The fruit of the latter is decidedly earlier to ripen, being at this date, Sept. 18, sweet and delicious, while that of the Concord is comparatively acid. The Worden is larger than the other, more de- licious and juicy, with less pulp we think. In habit of growth and in healthiness we can see no difference in our young vines. Brusseler Braune Cherry. J. L. BDDD, IOWA AGRICCLTURAI. COLLEGE. A reader of Popular Gardening writes from Vermont : " Four years ago I received from the Iowa Agricultural College four one-year-old, root-grafted Cherry trees, marked "' B. Braune." I do not see this name in Downing or any other work I have except the Fruit Manual of Robert Hogg of England, and he gives It as a synonym of Ratafia. It is a fine grower with good foliage. Is it likely to prove hardier and POPULAR GARDENING. October, more valuable than English Morello ? " Andre Leroy, Robert Hogg, and other west European writers, give Brusseler Braune as a synonym of Ratafia. That it is a variety of the Ratafia family there can be no doubt. Yet the Brusseler Braune we have distri- buted and fruited is not identical with the Ratafia of England, France, and South Germany. The fruit has the shape, pecu- liar suture, and the peculiar long stem of the Ratafia, but it is larger in size, darker in color when ripe, and the tree is larger, less pendulous in habit, and much hardier than the west European variety. We first saw this variety extensively planted at a roadside in North Prussia, I?oland, Western Hungary, and South Russia, where it is used mainly for making of Ratafia cordial and Kirschwasser. With us the tree has proven an iron clad on ground where the Early Richmond and English Morello have wholly failed during our recent test seasons, and a regular bearer even where we have severe frosts when it is in blossom. The reason for this seems to be found in the fact that only a portion of the flowers expand at any one time. It is in blossom for fully ten days and its fruit does not ripen evenly. In east Europe two pickings, about ten days apart, are made where it is grown for making Kirschwasser on a large scale. But where grown for dessert and cooking, when the late Cherries will do for canning, the early ones are black, tender, iuicy, and really pleasant for dessert use. It is later in season than English Morello, and the birds seem to damage the crop less than the earlier sorts, perhaps for two rea- sons: 1. The stems are so long, and the fruit so difficult to separate from the stem, that the birds cannot pluck them readily. On the pendent branches the fruit is mainly undisturbed, yet the birds work on them from perches by pecking off the flesh. Later the robins are less numerous than they were two weeks ago, and those remain- ing seem to prefer the Bush Honeysuckle berries on a hedge row near by. I believe this variety will in time be large- ly planted for late culinary and dessert use. I will only add that it does not unite well with the mahaleb stock. Hints About Planting. E. P. POWELL, OXEIDA CO., N. Y. Those who are desirous of engaging in fruit raising,make many very simple-hearted mistakes, and get laughed at by older prac- titioners. But if we look back over our own experiences, we shall remember a long list of blunders and losses Help and sugges- tions of a plain sort, and very fundamental, are what are needed. I wish to give a few hints to planters of fruit gardens that will save them a good deal of loss. ' (1) If you get in a hurry to plant before your land is put in perfect shape, and such roots as those of Couch grass eliminated, you will regret it before two years have passed. The probabilities are, you will spend more money than you get, and will give up berries as having no profit in them. (2) If you get in such a hurry that you cannot bear to cut the canes that you plant, close down to the ground, you will geta few berries the next season, but you will get no fine canes for the next year. The result will be two years of almost no crops; when by close cutting you might have secured good strong canes for the second year, and a full crop. That is greed loses two years, and good judgment loses one. Better leave but one or two buds on the Raspberry and Black- berry canes that you plant. (3) It you get in such a hurry that you cannot mulch well after thoroughly tread- ing down the canes after setting, you are pretty sure to have them half heaved out by the winter. I should in all cases mulch heavily with coarse manure or light saw- dust, or, if nothing better, with cut straw. Straw should never be used for covering or tor mulching before snow time, if other material can be had, as mice are liable to nest in it and gnaw the plants. Blackberries should be mulched even more carefully than Raspberries. I would not set either Black Raspberries or Strawberries in the fall; but Red Raspberries and Blackberries if well mulched. (4) If you get in too much of a hurry, to drain your land well, you will make alosing job of it with all sorts of small fruits. Nearly all of them prefer clay soil well drained. It is not only requisite to have the land thoroughly tiled, but you must make pro- vision for surface working and overflows. I would have open but shallow cuts ready in case of flooding to carry away easily the surplus water. In late autumn I always make surface ditches or cuts to catch winter's surface waters and so save the plants. This I do for all hillside gardens. A little study will show where to run them so as to most surely lead away overflows. I have saved myself vast loss and costly repairs by this simple process. If not needed longer in spring they can be closed up. They need generally be no bigger than furrows. (5) If you are too hurried to enrich your gardens, as well not have any. My plan is to have loads of loose manure driven about my Strawberry beds and spread so as to make over them a light covering in October or November. This is allowed to settle down in spring, with, if needed, a light raking. It first covers and enriches, and then serves to keep the berries off the ground. The Raspberry gardens should be heavily mulched up and down the rows with coarse manure in October. This should be culti- vated under in spring. Blackberries should be set in low land, and cultivated for two years till they get possession of the soil, and then let alone so far as plough or cultivator goes. Cut out old canes, and cut offl new ones; that is all. But for two years keep out grass and weeds, after which they will hold their own absolutely. I refer of course to hardy varieties. A Currant garden must be well cultivated, well hoed , well manured, well supplied with ashes, and well trimmed. The matter of trimming is not so severe as to puzzle any new beginner. Let Straw- l)erries make new rows each year, and dig out the old rows between. Cover the forked- over spaces with fertilizer, and rake it in. Let red and yellow Raspberries alone till September, then cut out old canes, tie new ones in small bunches to a wire run four feet from the ground. Cut off tops at six feet. With a cultivator keep the rows thin. Cuthbert can stand quite thickly in rows; Turner and others very thinly. Black Rasp- berries should be headed down to about four feet, and kept well headed-in all summer. I also tie them to wires in preference to tying to stakes. An old Strawberry bed can be renewed by forking alternate spaces in July, and letting the new runners get well set. Then fork out the old plants and leave the new ones. Cover for winter as directed above. Raspberries standing six feet high, shade the soil and do much to prevent damage from drought. Rows in all cases can stand as close as will permit a cultivator to move easily up and down the Held. Currants and Black Raspberries need room to spread out .sideways. I use no cultivator after May. The varieties that make me the least trouble are Sharpless, Cuthbert, Golden Queen among Raspberries. Of Strawberries the ideal growers are Bubach, Haverland aod Cumberland. It is no whim that some varieties make twice as much workas others. Turner Raspberry must be kept from suck- ering, or it is a total failure. It also likes cool soil. Pride of the Hudson is a failure except in half-shaded places and well mulched, but for the table both pay. I presume that many are planning to plant fruit gardens at once. Do not plant heavily at once. Go slowly and feel your way. Niagara County Orchard Notes. That Pear growing in this vicinity Is a profitable business, is an open secret. " Young man," says one of our veteran fruit growers, •' if you want to get rich, plant 10, 30 or .50 acres to Bartlett Pears." While we do not endorse this idea of anybody's go- ing thus largely into any special branch of husbandry without previous experience, for fear he will have reason to say in the end "I know there is money in it; put some in myself, and as I have none taken out again, it must be in it still." We see, however, plenty of instances around us of Bartlett Pear orchards yielding a handsome annual revenue to their owners. The writer just came back from a stroll through the Pear orchard of one of our neighbors, Mr. .John Hopkins. They are mostly Bartletts— standards of course — this variety covering about two acres, with trees about twenty-five years old, and planted twelve feet apart each way. This is rather close, undoubtedly too close for best results- but the trees are well-grovra, and loaded with large, perfect specimens of Pears, in many instances to the point of breaking. Some trees have more than two barrels of fruit. Indeed it is a sight to behold, and so far as we can learn, is not equalled in this part of Western New York. There are many other Pear orchards in the vicinity; but none shows comparatively the same quantity of fruit, nor the perfection in size of the individual specimens found in Mr. Hopkins' orchard, even when the trees are given much more space. What is the secret of this? Mr. Hopkins says it is manure and culti- vation; and from the whole appearance of the orchard, and a comparison with others, we are convinced he is right. Neither grass nor weed is to be seen in the orchard. Clean cultivation has been prac- ticed right straight through; and during the seven weeks drought in July and August, when other farm work was pressing, man and team have spent whole days harrowing the ground among the trees. The hired men could not see the point then, and thought they were wasting time. We imagine they see the utility of tbat kind of work now, as they are picking the excellent crop. So far as the fertilizer supply is concerned, Mr. Hopkins is favored more than most other cultivators of the soil, as he had an oppor- tunity to buy old cow manure at a dairy in the neighborhood— one hundred loads of about three tons each, costing him _only .50 cents a load. Of course it is a most excellent bargain, for such a load is easily worth ^.00. A good share of this manure is going into the Pear orchard. These Bartlett Pear trees have borne full crops annually for many years without a miss. Three years ago, when the present owner came into the possession of the place, the crop sold at -SS.OO per barrel, bringing aboot *1,200 in the aggregate. The next year, as Mr. Hopkins gained more experience in selling his products, ?!:150 were realized per barrel, and the revenue from the crop amounted to over $1,400. Last year he sold the crop at $4.00 per barrel, with still larger aggregate returns than the year before. The present is, of course, an exceptional season. The whole crop is contracted and now being delivered to a canning establish- ment, the managers of which pay 5 cents per pound for first and second quality, and 2)4 POPULAR GARDENING. cents per pound for the culls. The crop will probably amount to between 350 and 400 barrels, and bring Mr. Hopkins the neat little sum of about .*3,000, without involving him in any expense besides picliiug, sorting, and drawing to the railroad station. The buyers are furnishing the needed packages. The aggregate returns from these two acres in Bartletts for the past four years, this year included, amount to about 4i7,000. ■We hardly think any of our readers will question the statement that Bartlett Pears are a profitable crop in this vicinity. Mr. Hopkins tells us that aside from this exceptional season, $4.00 per barrel is prob- ably an average of prices obtained for the fruit. At the same time a little experience in selling the prodiict to advantage is easily worth 50 cents or $1.00 per barrel to the grower, and perhaps more. As an instance of this, he sold, as already stated, at 5 cents per pound for the better grades and 2J^ cents per pound for the culls. Other growers sold their crop at four cents per pound right through, imagining that they got as much in this way as Mr. Hop- kins. Now the usual proportion of culls is less than one-fifth of the crop. Thus Mr. Hopkins gets 32J.2 cents for each five pounds, while other growers receive only 30 cents for the same quantity. In other words, Mr. Hopkins' price is ten per cent higher than that paid to his neighbors. We still have to say that Mr. Hopkins has started a young orchard of Bartletts, larger than the other; thus providing a substitute should the older orchard give out. Blight has already done some damage to the older trees, and under this system of high feeding with barnyard manure and clean cultivation, may soon become very serious. It is the only drawback to this business. Birds Injuring Grapes. BAMTJEL MILLER, MONTGOMERY CO., MO. Tlie remarks on this subject on page 331, in August number, amuse me somewhat, and as some claim that the birds are entitled to a share of the fruit in payment for the good they do in the vineyard, I would like to know what that good is? I doubt whether any of them feed on the insects most de- structive to our vines and the fruit. And as to the damage a lot of birds will do in a vineyard, it sometimes amounts to ruin. I have seen vineyards of nearly an acre bear- ing a full crop, out of which it would have been difliicult to collect enough perfect bunches for a decent exhibition. Not only this, but they injured the crop for wine, as many berries are picked on top, the insects suck out the juice, rain gets in and ferments the juice left, and then sours, which is by no means desirable in the wine vat. I would even allow them a share of the fruit (even if they are no benefit) if they would eat the berries; but they only peck a berry and suck a little of the sweets, then peck another and another, which spoils the bunch. This is not all, for in one raid an orchard oriole will spoil a half dozen bunches. This is no question with me, but a well-known fact. Next comes, what birds do injure Grapes? The English sparrow has made three at- tempts to start a colony here, but we have spoiled them, so I cannot say whether they eat Grapes or not. But I do know that the red bird, cardinal, grossbeak does some of it, but for his beauty, his cheerful song and his intimacy with us in the winter when nearly all the other feathered tribe has gone south, we tolerate it. The red-headed woodpecker is not slow on Grapes, nor the thrush, the cat bird, gold- en oriole, and lastly and by far the worst the orchard oriole, which here destroys more Grapes than all the rest combined. I have made it a rule to not allow them to hatch here for several years, destroying the old ones and the nest, but this season one party has been raised, which my intention is to destroy so that there will be none of them to locate here next season. The few Grapes that the rot left us are being picked as soon as colored; and when once ripe, the punctur- ing of a Grape by a bird, and the end of that berry is not an hour, as the bees are on the alert and soon suck out the juice. There are vineyardists in these parts that keep a man with a gun all day guarding their vineyards, who shoot all they can, often shooting our friends as well as enemies. The innocent bluebird and pewitt fall victims, because they often light on the Grape trellis. This ought to be taught to the gunners. The orchard oriole is the most destructive, provoking and cunning of them all. There may be a dozen of them at the Grapes and you not know it until walking along the rows, when they will flit from one vine to another, always keeping hidden, until all at once they start out and fly to the nearest tree, to which one seldom gets near enough to get a fair shot at them. About the best plan is to tie a bunch of dead brush to the end of a long pole and set it up in tlie vine- yard, then when you know tlie birds to be among the Grapes, slip in slyly and tap the vines gently; this will start them, and they are likely to fly to your dead tree top. Then is the time to shoot. When they won't take to your trap, Je* drive at them on sight, and be quick about it, for they are by no means an easy shot. This oriole and cat bird are the two worst we have on Grapes, and are nearly as bad on Raspberries and Blackberries, Ijoth of which they demoralize greatly when they are plenty. I have sometimes thought of making a miniature black snake and twining it around a pole under such a bush as described, which would attract them and give a chance to shoot them. A few years ago I had a few Lettuce stalks left for seed, and before it was fully ripe, our gold finches got at it and threatened to use it up. Got my daughter and grand-daughter to stitch some spotted calico in the form of a snake, which I stuffed with Beans and laid it on one of the plants. It had the desired effect, as the little yellow beauties would give it a wide berth. But the best joke in the matter was that a few days after, as the two girls were walking along in the garden, the grand-daughter who helped make it, suddenly gave asliriek, jumped aside and said, a snake! a snake! Some say to set up a stuffed cat in a vine- yard in a conspicuous place, will keep the birds so exercised that they will not molest Grapes, but I have not much faith in this. Greater Efforts for Home Improve- ments Needed. The process of education and refinement, which (immaterial for what reasons) is forced and pushed by the " tree agents," should not stop with fruits. Thousands of rural homes are yet unadorned with lawns, shrubs, and trees, and will remain so unless the peddler of ornamental trees, flowering shrubs, bulbs, and perhaps of lawngrass seed, is sent out on his errand of transform- ing wildernesses into blooming gardens at a profit to himself, and to the reliable firm of propagators he represents. Our friend Wm. Falconer talks on this subject in American Florist. While the men folks want the trees, and vines, and berry bushes, he says, the women want some Roses and pretty shrubbery. And what can associate more aptly with these plants than hardy perennials such as Pseo- nias. Larkspurs and Day Lilies? If they can not be had from the nurserymen and at the same time as the nursery stock, the chances are hosts of people who might gladly buy these hardy perennials will go entirely without them. Many nursery firms have never gone into the hardy perennial Irasiness either as a specialty or as an auxilliary to their tree trade, hence can hardly be expected to com- prehend its capabilities. I have no fear that it would be overdone even if every nurseryman goes into the hardy perennial bu,siness. I believe the more who handle these plants the greater and more increas- ing demand there will be for them. Mr. Falconer adds the advice to the gen- eral nurseryman to restrict himself to the cream of hardy plants such as Irises, Pfeo- nias. Larkspur, White Day Lily, .Japan Anemone, herbaceous Clematis, Coreopsis, Pyrethrum and the like, and the best and most serviceable sorts of these. Any per- son accustomed to getting up ordinary nursery stock can get up these perennials as well as can any specialist in the trade. Carbonaceous Matter In Soil and Manure. Carbon is the most abundant of Nature's organic substances, and next to water com- poses the great bulk of all vegetable and animal matter. It is probably for this reason that so little account is taken of it as a con- stituent of soils and manures. Other elements of plant food are handled and spoken of as a commercial commodity. Nitrogen, phosphorus (as phosphoric acid) and potash (as potassium oxide) have a cer- tain commercial rating, higher or lower ac" cording to the combination in which they appear; but carbon has not been given a quotable value. We incline to the belief that carbon, abundant as we know it to be, is of far greater importance in the economy of plant life than the general disregard in which it is held by experiment stations, agricultural writers and chemists, makes it appear. It may not be worth a quotable figure per pound, but it is just as indispensable in fer- tile soil as nitrogen, potash or phosphoric acid. While it is floating in the air in a form readily absorbed by plants, and the latter indeed derive probably the larger share of their carbon from that source, yet we can- not imagine a really fertile soil without a certain percentage of carbon from the reso- lution of vegetable matter. Soils devoid of carbonaceous matter (hu- mus) are in a condition of stagnancy, with- out action and life. We may apply great quantities of phosphoric acid, and potash, and nitrogen, all in the most available forms, yet without carbon the growth of crops will remain slow and unsatisfactory. Nor can such soils be restored to fertility by the mere use of the commercial fertilizers named, unless we also supply the missing carbon, either by the application of carbonaceous substances to the soil directly, or by employ- ing living plants, such as Clovers, Peas, weeds, etc., as "carbon collectors" (from the atmosphere) and plowing them under. Very good results may be secured by the exclusive use of commercial (concentrated) fertilizers alone, if supplemented by frequent plowing under of green crops. This, of course, may be fully as expensive as draw- ing carbonaceous matter to the fields in a wagon. Certainly it shows us that carbon cannot be had entirely gratis, and without effort and expense, and that the substance may even have a money value. " The greatest success I have had," says a writer in a New England exchange, "has been with strictly vegetable matter, consist- ing of weeds, forest leaves, etc., collected into the compost pile. Such manure on land that had resisted the influence of the best phosphates, not forgetting BOO pounds of nitrate of soda, has given excellent results. POPULAR GARDENING. October, Every mineral was In the soil in abundance, but the soil itself was without lite or chem- ical action. It wanted carbon (humus), and the usual acids resulting from the oxidation of organic matter, which not only renders the mineral soluble, but presents an absorb- ing substance to hold mechanically the air, carbonic acid, ammonia, etc., found in the falling rains and condensing dew, for which mere sand and clay have no attractions. Besides this, the decaying vegetable mat- ter attracts heat, keeps the soil warm and hus promotes growth." Anthrax may prove of benefit in destroying cut worms, they are not without precedent, as the group to which the species belongs, is,according to Osten Sacken, known to prey normally on the pupa? of Ijepidoptera, e.s- pecially Noctu». In number of species of this group is about equally represented in Europe and this country. Strawberry Notes. L. J. FARMER, OSWEGO CO., N. Y. The most crying want in the Strawberry business to day is a reliable, perfect-flower- ing variety. We have plenty of good pistillates. There is the Haverland, with its immense crop of fruit, just the berry wanted for farmers' families, and not too par- ticular near markets. But it Qtj won't bear alone. We wonder if Anthrax Bypomelas; a, Lai'va; c, Pupa; (i, Perfect Insect. Many of our best farm writers, in com- paring the values of stable manures and concentrated fertilizers, leave this phase of the question entirely out of consideration. The carbon, which composes the bulk of the stable manure, is not counted. Of course there are cases were the carbon is notneeded. So are there cases where the potash or the phosphoric acid is not needed. Wherever any one of these plant foods is already in the soil in abundance, we need not take the pains to apply it. Muck land or other soil well filled with decaying vege- table matter, can be kept in first-class state of fertility by the use of mineral fertilizers alone, and this will in most cases be a cheaper way than to accomplish it by means of barnyard manure with its large amount of carbon and nitrogen, both substances which the soil already has in sufficient quantities. Garden lands that have been treated to composts for many years, need no further application of such fertilizer, but may get along very well for a time with simple rations of nitrate of .soda. But the worn-out land must have carbon; and for such the carbon contained in stable manures and composts has certainly a money value. For this reason, and for such pur- poses, we must consider the valuations of stable manures given by the stations, and by writers on agricultural chemistry, valu- ations based on the percentages of potash, phosphoric acid and nitrogen alone, much too low practically, when compared with the valuations of chemical fertilizers. An Insect That Kills the Cutworm. The bee-fly shown in the accompanying illustration is a friend of ours, and deserves our love and protection. Itsname is authrax bypomelas (Macq.), and its services to us consist in the free use it makes of the cut- worm chrysalis as a breeding place, thus destroying great numbers of these our dreaded enemies. Several related species of the Anthrax have the same satisfactory habit. The perfect insect, shown at d, was one of a number bred last summer by Mr. F. M. Webster, the Indiana agent of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, from the pupie of a cutworm, which proved to be Agerotis herilis. Prof. Gillette of the Iowa Agricultural Experiment Station, has also bred last summer specimens of these bee- llies or Anthrax of another species (A. scro- bibulta L(ew) from cut worm larvie. Though these are extremely interesting occurrences, says Insect ].,ife (where we find the original illustrations of the Anthrax bypomelas) and show that some species of the Parker Earle, which resembles it in size, shape and color, will prove a fitting companion? The noble Bubach as a medium late variety is almost perfect in the essential points for a market berry; but there is no berry that presents the same appearance when packed in the same basket. The Burt blossoms profusely at the same time, but it is entirely difl'erent in appearance, being smaller and more regular. The .lessie will pack best with Bubach, but it is darker and it is badly wanting in productiveness. There is no pistillate and staminate variety that will pack so well together as Warfield and Wilson. They present nearly the same appearance in the basket, although Warfield holds its size better to the close of the .season. The five best varieties fruiting with us this year were Warfield, Bubach, Haver- land, Eureka and Daisy. I am sorry to say they are all pistillates. I shall grow Burt to fertilize Eureka till I find something more desirable. I shall try Crawford next year, as they are quite similar in appearance, both being late. Pearl is quite productive, and may be used to fertilize Daisy. Both are regular in shape and of the same color. While we must try to secure the best, I don't believe a perfect flowering-variety will ever be produced that will equal a pistillate, properly fertilized, in the one most essen- tial point, productiveness. The Cloud. I notice by the reports of numerous correspondents that the Cloud is not generally popular at the north. The same has been my own experience. The plants made a fine growth but failed in pro- ductiveness. Had I not seen it imder other circumstances I would be likely to condemn it as an undesirable variety. When Straw- berries began to ripen I had occasion to visit a fruit grower of the next town. I there saw the Cloud in all its glory. The plants were literally loaded with fruit. The ber- ries were firm, of good size and color; and borne on strong stalks. This man had a row 400 feet long that spread fully ten feet wide. From this one row men picked 400 quarts of fruit after having taken up l:i,000 plants for resetting. The soil on which the plants grew was a stony upland, the strong- est soil to be had hereabouts. No manure was applied before the plants were set out, and only a small application made to the row last fall. The plants were well distrib- uted over the surface, not crowded, and the soil was moist. This shows how much varieties will vary under difl'erent circumstances, and forever proves that the Cloud Strawberry is not without value, even at the extreme north. My plantation of Cloud was on soil of the same character, but it was heavily manured. The plants did not blossom freely, but every blo-ssom developed to a nice berry. The Cloud is a firm berry, equalling the Wilson for shipping, and having the same dark color when fully ripe. It is very en- couraging to cultivate a variety that is in- clined to grow like the Cloud. We can almost see them grow. I think it will pay growers to try this variety on good soil with no manure. Remember to avoid manures that make a flashy growth of vines, even if you put them in poor soil. Small Fruit Notes. GRANVILLE COWING. The last Strawberry crop in this region was a variable one — in some cases good, in others unprofitable; average price about 10 cents per quart. Blight prevailed in some patches while others were free from it, and produced large and perfect berries. Of old kinds, Cumberland, Crescent, Kentucky and Jersey Queen were the best. On my ground .Jersey Queen has for two seasons been more productive and profitable than Cumberland, and in size and appearance the berries are hardly inferior to those of Logan and Bubach. It ripens later than Gandy. Of new varieties, Bubach, Logan and Hav- erland seem much the best. They are so vigorous in growth, so free from rust and so productive of large and handsome berries that they cannot fail to displace the best of the old varieties. I have seedlings from Bubach grown from seed this year, which are now making run- ners, and I believe not a trace of rust is to be seen on any of them. The existence of such a fine Strawberry as Bubach will make greater improvement in the Strawberry an easy matter. Gandy is not sufficiently productive, and is subject to rust. Warfield blighted badly in some cases and was worthless; in others it was free from disease, wonderfully pro- ductive, and its berries very large and fine; too variable for profit. I have long regarded Burr's New Pine, Sterling and Duncan as the most delicious of all Strawberries, but one of my seedlings (Brunette) excels them in that respect, and has qualities as a market berry which none of them ever had. I am having it tested at experiment stations. The Raspberry crop was the poorest ever known in this region. Plants were generally injured or killed by the peculiar weather of last winter and spring. Blackberries never seemed in better condition when they bloomed, but in consequence of persistent drouth yielded but few berries — three, fourths of them shrivelling on the bushes. Nearly all the best berries were furnished by Snyder. It is by far the most profitable Blackberry for market purposes grown here. Taylor stands next to it, but is too late to command the best prices. I have grown Stone, Wallace, Early Harvest, Aga warn and Ancient Briton for many years, but have not found them profitable, although they all have some desirable qualities. Selling Crapes to Advantage. BY "TRAVELER." In October of last year I passed by rail through the State of New York. The night train on which I travelled reached Syra- cuse in time for breakfast, for which purpose a halt of twenty minutes was made. At the station there was exposed on the fruit stand to tempt the eyes of passengers a large stock of Grapes done up in packages, more at- tractively than anything in this line I ever before had met. The Grapes were of several kinds, includ- ing dark and hght ones, of which the latter were the beautiful golden Niagaras. They were done up in light, white wooden bo.xes of the style and size shown in the sketch, and which had convenient wire handles for carrying. The lid slid in from one side, and on this was pasted the white paper label, which 1 removed from a box there pur- i^Sgo. POPULAR GARDENING. chased, and this I mail to you (engraving annexed). The bo.x itself was lined with white paper, the parts that lapped over the top of the fruit being ornamentally per- forated, like the papers often used in boxes of confectionery. As the description on the label indicates the fruit was of the choicest quality, and being done up so handsomely, it was a sight to tempt many buyers. Dozens of the boxes were sold at 7.5 cents apiece, and as they held, I think, five pounds of fruit each, it is clear that it made handsome returns to the grower and the enterprising company that hit upon this excellent plan of disposing of fruit. The dis- play of fruit was as pretty and tempting a sight as weary travellers could desire to meet, and it touched the pocket book quickly. I have no doubt that to train load after train load of people, the sale of these boxes day by day, atjthe Syra- cuse station was very large. Why is not this method of putting up choice fruit to attract buyers most com- mendable? It appeals to the sense of sight as well as to the palate and this is proper. The public pay the florists hundreds of thousands of dollars in the larger cities every year for cut (lowers for beauty chiefly. Fine fruit combines both beauty and usefulness as food. The salesman who so presents his product that both of these qualities have due weight in influencing buyers, will be greatly the gainer thereby. COMMENTS BY READERS. A department to whu'h alt are invited to send notes of experience and observation concerning topics that recently have been treated on in this JournaL Many such contributions monthly are welcome. The Florists' Contention at Boston. The dullness of the meetings was not owing to unin- teresting papers and questions. Please bear with us. Manj'Otusare plain, practical people more accustomed to hard labor than to debating or discussing matters in open meeting. Some of you ready speakers perhaps cannot understand this diHidence, this nervousness on our part, but it is a sad and unsurmountable ailment with many of us. Again, many of the members present could not hear what was said, and in such cases both the eloquent and the silent were rendered hnrs de combat. But you put us dumb members into a small room where only a tew of us are together, and you shall quickly see how soon we will find our tongues. Indeed, I have Iwen thinking that it might be well to consider the advisability of dividing the meetings into sections according to the branches io which the different florists are most interested, somewhat would have it appear at its prettiest, plant it at the root of some naked topped tree such sis an old Cedar, a *all Hickory, a big Paulonin, or the like, and let it grow up around and covei- the stem of the tree. But don't plant it at the root ot a Beech or Elm as they would rob it to starv- ation. It will climb 80 or 10 feet high, and attach itself by stem roots to the tree trunk. Or it will clamber over rocks or tree stumpsin the garden. But it isn't a good vine to use in place of a Honeysuckle or Clematis.— H'lii. Falconer. BiBDS AND GRAPE.S. The thief is the oriole, which hangs it* nest on the end of a limb of some high tree. I ha^ e a very large Klra in my yard where they come every year to hatch their young, and also to destroy the Pears as well as weather destroys blossoms. These off-years, as some call it, don't happen in my orchard. Have had pretty regular crops for ten years, the only miss being when a tree was overloaded, and I failed to thin out. Invariably the following year was a miss, which is quite natural : for a tree cannot l)ear an overload and at the same time store up blossom buds to do the same the next season. —S. Miller, Monluomcrit l\> , Mo. Potted Strawuekbt Plants. The unusual drought throughout the country has preventcil the making of young plants, except in a few favored locations. The consequence is that no one will like U\ go into the beds tf) dig plants until later than usual. Later than the first of October is not often practicable although if the HOW THE BOXES OF CHOICE GRAPES ARE LABELLED. Wooden Box iiscd in Marhetlng Grni>e». after the style in which the American Associa- tion for the Advancement of Science divides its meetings.— Wm . Falconer. MiMULUSES, p. iW. I grow lots ot them in summer but do not consider them worth while in winter. Although the seeds are exceedingly minute they have great vitality and germinate without any trouble. The young plants grow rapidly, bloom in .Tune and July, and in moist shady places will live over and bloom again in fall, but as the second crop is apt to be poor I save seed for next year and root out the plants as soon as their beauty is passed. But Mimulus cardinalis keeps fresh and in bloora all summer. Common Musk is also a Mimulus and easily raised from seed. — Wm. F. The Climbing Hydrangea, p. -'KS. Let me urge your readers to try this vine. And if they the Grapes by puncturing for their juices. I have seen those birds stick their bills in Bartlett Pears, and puncturing the fine clusters of Brighton Grapes, which are my first to ripen. I shot everyone I could see on my place and after that my Grapes hung without being mo- lested either by birds or bees, and there were plenty ot both kinds —W;n. G. Sickles. Thinning Out Fruit. Occasionally someone refers to this subject as something new, while it is as old as horticulture itself. I have practised it for more than forty years, and never yet failed to gain by it. Most people maintained that it might do on a small scale, but that it would never pay in extensive orchards. I have the proof that it will. Yesterday afternoon five trees were gone over in my orchard, two Mt. Henry Pippin and three Newtown, from two o'clock until six. This would beat the rate of twelve trees in ten hours, the hours of a day's work, costing say SL which will be a little over eight cents per tree. Now these trees will aver- age about six bushels a piece if the season is favorable, and there will be but very few culls. The difference in the price ot one bushel of these Apples will more than pay for the thinning. It is true not everyone will handle himself on a ladder or tree as 1 do, but then we will allow one hour more to the day, as on the farm the 10 hour system is not so rigidly adhered to as with me- chanics. Supposing I had a thousand tiees like these and had.to pay $S5 to have them gone over, the crop being ti,UOO bushels. If I could get but ten cents more per bushel, which is quite a low estimate, it would makel$600,which is pretty good pay, I should think. What I left on will measure as many bushels when harvested, as if all had been left on the trees, although I took at least three bushels off each tree, of course in all cases the small, deformed, rustv and wormy ones. When it comes to picking them the difference in the work and sorting will nearly make up for the thinning. But this is not all, for by this thinning out the trees are relieved of quite a burden ; they will not have to mature the seeds of all those taken off", which is a great item. Every scrubby small Apple has about on equal number of seeds with the largest, and seed- ripening is the great tax on the vitality of the tree. Another feature about it is that in a drought like this it may prevent the premature dropping of the fruit, so much complained of in this region. At my work alluded to I found that the fruit let go its hold much too easily to promise staying there until the proper time, and believe that my thinning will save what are now left. A few years ago there were scarcely any coddling moths here, no black rot, nor sc^b on the Apples, but they are all coming, and spraying will have to be resorted to in coming years. If I had an orchard of ten thousand bear- ing Apple trees that were overloaded, they shoulil all be thinned out. Another advantage ot thinning 1 did not mention, is that it will give us Api>les every year, unless an unusual spell of autumn is a late warm one it may do still later. This thing of potted plants is all right if done properly, but the taking-up of runners, sticking them in small pots, leave for a week or two and then send out, is not quite the fair thing. The pots should be sunk under the runner and left at least three weeks, then they will be prop- erly established. The usual way is to take the plants out of the pots and wrap them in paper so as to save express charges. If I were to order such plants, my order would be shake the ground out of the roots, without breaking them and pack in Moss; thus handled I will insure as good growth as if the whole ball of earth were with them, and even if got with the earth adhering, would loosen the lower part and spread the roots. These pot plants are usually grown in very rich soil, and if planted in ground less so, the roots will keep creeping in and around this ball instead of running out into the new ground. By sending the plants without the ground, 100 can be sent by mail, which may cost 20 cents, but if sent by express may cost from .50 cents to $3. These express companies are one of the necessary evils that we cannot escape altogether. They charge me nearly as much for carrying a trifling thing from St. Louis here, 94 miles, as for carrying it 600 from the east to St. Louis, simply because there is no competition. Where- in lies the remedy I cannot see.—.'*. Miller, Mo. Training Tomatoes. I believe in training Tomatoes and have the methofl illustrated on page 284 in use at the present time. The little trou- ble one will take training and pruning will be more than repaid by clean handsome fruit. First among my ten varieties stands Mikado, being the first to ripen, a heavy cropper of very large, solid fruit; but it ripens unevenly. Living- ston's Perfection is very prolific, second to ripen; a beautiful fruit, but subject to black rot. Ignotum ripens with Perfection, has very large, handsome fruit, but badly affected with black rot. Henderson's Shaw or Yellow Mikado bears very large handsome fruit. Dwarf Champion is a small Tomato both in fruit and plant, of good quality. The old standard Paragon is of excel- lent quality and prolific. With it ripens Hender- son's Table Queen, a new variety. This Tomato is all the originatoi-s claim for it. It is large and handsome, of fine flavor, a heavy cropi>er. The Peach is of little value except to amuse the children; very lu.xuriant in growth, and very prolific ; the old Trophy is very late ; Station Tree Tomato is a dwarf but useless variety ; it ripens with the Champion, but has very small fruit. My Tomatoes are all trellised, and are ripening in large numbers daily while the same plants of my neighbors left to grow on the ground ripen very slowly and unsatisfactory. My .advice to all who would grow good Tomatoes is to trellis them. Some posts set alw)ut eight feet apart, a few strands of wire, a little care in training and pruning— this will be as bread cast upon the waters, that you shall find after many days.— Henri/ C. Towneend, Dutchass Co., N. Y. POPULAR GARDENING. October, A Visit to the Hayes' Estate near Boston. A pleasant feature of the Florists' Con- vention, at Boston, was the visit of more than 500 tlorists including ladies, to the estate of the late Hon. Francis B. Hayes, at historic Lexington, near Boston. This place consists of -too acres rolling land partly covered with original forest. Mr. Hayes, in his lifetime, had taken special pride in the care of the estate, and had a collection of trees, shrubs and flowers rarely surpassed. The masses of Rhododendrons are one of the chief attractions here and proved a surprise to many of the visitors, in seeing this fine evergreen grown so largely and so well thus far north. The proprietor of these grounds had always taken pleasure to open them to all persons interested in horticulture, and on the present occasion the invita- tion extended by Mrs. Hayes to the flor- ists was most cordial. Not only were the visitors conducted about the place by Superintendent James Comley of the estate, but a beautiful spread of viands was made under a tent for whoever desired to partake. Both hardy Rhododendrons and Aza- leas are grown on a large scale on these grounds. The former which are in the lead, are arranged in large numbers both in masses and singly along the drives that lead through the native forest. An idea of this is given in figure 1 in which the clumps of Rhododendrons are shown by the darkest parts, the forest by lighter shades and the wood drive nearly white. The effect of such an ex- tensive display of this flower in the season of bloom, it is easily imagined, is most striking. Not only are the leading hardy varieties of Rhododendrons grown in large numbers, but many that will not endure the average winter without shelter are also included. A Rhododendron house or cellar, as shown at figure 2, is employed for wintering kinds that are not entirely hardy. This building is about 36x100 feet in extent, with the back wall some twelve feet high. It is built in the forest, on a slight slope, the entrance being at the lowest side. The walls are banked up with soil and leaves on the out- side. Light and air are supplied by means of 24 sash set at regular intervals in the roof. The roof is double. Scattered over the extensive lawns and meadows, are mauy fine trees and shrubs arranged in masses or disposed singly. We noted especially many clumps of hardy shrubs employed in a manner that is not fine thus arranged — they must be vastly more so in their blooming time. Among evergreens we were impressed by the beauty of the common Hemlock as it grows to a height of 20 feet of rounded- conical form. Those who imagine this fine native requires a low wet spot for good de- velopment should see the specimens here on elevated lands. Nearly all conifers do well here, some of the most striking specimens being the Nordmann's Silver Fir, Sargent's J/^ the o^vne^ so choose. The soil at this point is light, dry and rich which may account for the spreading proclivities of the plant which usually does little more than hold its own if it does as much as that. Not much attention is paid to the use of tender bedding plants on these grounds, a lack which the florists of all men were quick to notice. Still the very absence of these in a garden that abounds in so many fine effects in lawn, hardy flowers, shrubs and trees, should teach us that beauty in gardening is attainable in a very large measure by the use of hardy sub- .iects alone. Fig. I. Arrangement of RododendrottJi ahjng Forest dr on the Haye's Estate near Boston. Mass. :»*.% -#^; ,<^? .■^w»i*f;. Fig. 4. Hedge of Arbor Vitw. often met ; they had been planted three or four in a mass at a few feet from center to center. With growth the branches have mingled, and now, perhaps twenty years from planting, each mass has an ap- pearance not unlike a single large spreading shrub about eight or ten feet high and a dozen or more feet across. Masses of Golden Bell (Fiimythia viridLsHitiui), Spice Bush (,('(il]ic(i)ilhiii< floriilus) and Mock Orange (P)iU(ulclj>hu.-i) were particularly Weeping Spruce, an 18-foot high specimen being illustrated on page 2, Dwarf white Spruce, the blue form of White Spruce, various Dwarf and other Pines, Golden and other Retinosporas. A pleasing Arbor Vitie hedge about eight feet high, of circu- lar form and which provides a sheltered space within for Chrysanthemums and other choice plants, as illustrated in fig. 4, attracted the attention of the visitors. The Japanese Maples on the grounds with the place and treatment here given, do not make a very good showing. A Wier's Cut- leaved Maple, some 40 feet high, is as fine a specimen of this comparatively new orna- mental tree as one is likely to meet. An engraving of the same is shown in fig. 5. One of the attractions on a rising slope of the grounds was a bed occupied with hardy Phloxes, Dahlias, and Hollyhocks. The Phloxes at this date were in full bloom and being located on a prominent point, showed to magnificent advantage from other parts of the ground. Many were the guesses made by the florists before reaching the bed as to what the flowers were, the plants showed to so much better advantage than they usually do. A reason for their fine appearance is that they have ample space being no less than eight feet apart. Those who assume that Bocconia cor- data a hardy herbaceous perennial, with handsome large leaves, partakes too much of a weedy nature to be suitable forgeneralplantingmightflnd somegrotmd for their position here, although it is the first instance of the kind we believe we ever have met, and the plant has been known and grown by us for a score of jeais. In a wide border next to the boundary of the place on one side, the plants have taken possession of a large spot, to the evident disadvantage of other occupants. The mass is highly ornamental and perhaps could be reduced with little trouble should The Newer Gladioli. W. E. ENDICOTT, NORFOLK CO., MASS. Last year much was said in the papers about a strain of Gladioli which had been produced in California. This year, some of the catalogues offered varieties of this strain, and those of us who are bulhophiles, and who, with appetites whetted by last year's glowing descrip- tions, were eagerly watching to see these transcendent productions burst into view on the commercial horizon, were prom- ised that we should have bulbs (for a consideration) that should produce flowers five inches across in the greatest profusion, which would withstand the fiercest sunshine and the heaviest rain without injury. These representations must have been made by persons unfamilar with the present condition of the Gladioli, that is, ignorant of the degree of excellence to which cultivators have brought it, or else the soil and climate of ('alifomia are especially congenial to this pafticu- '"^ lar strain; for I am sorry to say that these sorts, of which I had formed such high expectations, are not what we consider to be very good flowers in the vicinity of Boston. None of them withstand the sun better than our ordinary kinds; none of them have flowers above the ordin- ary size; none of the flowers have colors, shadings, which would cause particular notice. I have had .several, and persons of my acquaintance have had others, and I am compelled to say there is is not one which I should have named had I raised it. Shasta is the best one, and is of that type of which there are so many — white marked with rose. The new strain raised by Lemoine of Nancy, France, is a notable addition to our resources. He calls them the Nancicamts strain, and says they are raised from the ordinary Qandaroisis sorts fertilized with O. Saun(lersi,a,nd their appearance confirms it, for they have much of the peculiar shape and marking of that species. I tried the same cross some years ago and got the most insignificant, inferior fiowers I ever saw, which shows that some hybridizers are more expert than others. These flowers are very large, surpassing in fact the promised size of the California strain. The largest is President Camot, some of whose flowers I found to have a breadth of six inches. None of these can be said to be very good in color, but not only that, but size of spike will be greatly improved now that the break has once been made. I wish also to advocate the claims of some of the hardy Gladioli. Last fall I planted several hundred of these, which I covered with leaves and Corn-stalks. As far as I could judge every one cameupand bloomed to my complete satisfaction, beginning about June l.") and continuing to come for- ward in the several sorts up to the end of July. The earliest was O. scf/tfifiii, a species attaining a height of two feet and producing lovely rosy-purple fiowers of good size, adorned with white central stripes on the lower petals. Next came O. communis, 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. with colors like the last, but with flowers of different shape and of longer duration. Then Colvillci and ColviUci albm or Bride, the first purple and straw, the other a beau- tiful white, opening with a creamy tint in the center, which soon bleaches as white as snow. Many varieties of O. lamosus (a hybrid as is also Colvillei) were conspicuous, their colors being the most vivid scarlet, crimson and rose, generally with white markings. My favorites, however, among the hardy kinds are what are called " nanus" varieties, which have been produced by Dutch bulb growers by crossing many dwarf species. These only attain a height of 10 or 13 inches, but their flowers are most delicate and beautiful. Their magnificence being varied and exquisitely soft and tender in tint. They deserve to be largely grown for bouquets, for which their size and lovely colors so well adapt them . Grouping: in Forest and Ornamental Planting. There is a wide diflierence between forest planting and planting for ornament. Prof. B. E. Fernow, chief of the forestry division of the Department of Agriculture, points out how the methods employed in either differ from each other. Grouping for ornament, he says, is an art, and can be done effectively only by an artist, who can appreciate the exquisite effects of color and outline which a proper use of the plant material is capable of pro- ducing. Such groups may be composed of one or more species or varieties. In either case the plants should differ in size so as to give a varied outline, the largest plants placed in the center. But if various kinds are mixed, it must never be forgotten that the quicker-grovring or larger plant must be one with a light foliage which will not impede or even suppress the lower ones ; and the lower trees or shrubs be such, as can stand the partial shade of the others. Lack of regard to this relation of trees to light and shade will soon tell, and the most beautifully-arranged group may go to ruin, as it develops, instead of improving rather in appearance. In forest planting the outline and the beautiful effect is of no consequence, but the economic effect is most important. As a rule, plants of about the same size are used in forest planting, but as soon as the plantation developes a difference in the rate of growth, differences in size will ap- pear. The quicker-growing kinds strive to outstrip their slower neighbors, and it de- pends upon the capacity of these to endure the shade of their would-be-oppressors, whether they will maintain or die. In selecting then for a mixture we must know both the rate of height, growth of the different kinds, and their requirements for light. A good forest plantation is almost always composed of mixed growth. Some trees produce a dense shady foliage, while others although when young beingdenselyfoliaged, as they grow older thin out their foliage. The former are the ones, which as a rule can endure also the most shade ; the latter cannot; they require full enjoyment of light for their full development. Hence in grouping, the latter must be such as will always keep even pace with or outgrow, the former, or if they fall behind, they must be protected against the former, by cutting these back or else they might as well be re- moved themselves, before they are crowded to death. There is one other consideration in select- ing for a plantation. Favorable forest con- ditions means a shaded soil. Hence the larger quantity of trees should consist of the densely-foliaged kinds, which preserve favorable forest conditions. The Cotton- wood, the ^sh, the Black Walnut, the Locust, the Birches and the Oaks are trees which soon show a thin foliage ; they should, therefore, always form the smaller portion of the growth; the Beech, the Box- elder, the Elm, the Black Cherry, Spruces and Cedars are of the densely foliaged kinds, and may therefore, form the bulk of a plantation. The named rules for mixing and grouping in forest planting have been evolved from long experience and, by fol- Fig. 5. The Wier% Cut-leaved Maple as it ap- pears on the Hayes" Ornutuis. lowing them, any one who knows the rela- tive rate of growth of the species, he wants to plant — and he must be aware that that rate changes at different stages of develop- ment as well as under different soil and climatic conditions — and who also knows which are the shady and the light-foliaged kinds, will not make a mistake in selecting for his grouping. Sclllas and Their Culture. CHAS. E. PARNELL, L. I., .V. Y. The several species or varieties of Scillas, popularly termed Squills, which belong to the Natural Order Liliaceas, are bulbous plants of dwarf habit, having linear leaves, and producing their intensely bright colored flowers in conical corymbs or racemes dur- ing the early spring months. When well and properly grown, all are beautiful border plants, and no garden or border can be con- sidered complete without them, and all are well worthy of pot cultivation for the dec- oration of the greenhouse or window garden during the winter months. To grow the Scillas to perfection in the open air, the bulbs should be planted early in October in a light rich soil. As the bulbs are quite small, it is best to plant them in groups of six or eight, keeping them a few inches apart. Many of the plants will flower without showing a leaf, and after the flowers have disappeared, the leaves will be produced, and these should not be injured or removed until they are pretty well de- cayed, in order to properly develop and ma- ture the bulb for another season's bloom, and to avoid injuring them. During their season of rest, their situation should be marked by a stout label. The bulbs should be taken up, divided and replanted every three or four years. When grown as pot plants for winter blooming, the bulbsshould be planted early in October in well-drained, porous or soft- baked pots, filled with light turfy loam. In potting place from one to four bulbs in a pot, according to the size and variety of pot. When potted, water thoroughly, and then remove to a dark cellar or other similar place where they should be permitted to re main until the pots are well filled with roots, when they can be started into growth at any time desired. When starting them into growth they should be given a light, sunny situation, and an average tempera- ture of from 40 to .50 degrees F. After the plants cease blooming and the period of growth is over, which may be known by the decay of the leaves, the supply of water should be gradually reduced, and as soon as the ground Is in a proper condition for working, they can be planted outside in a nicely prepared border. In the fall they can be taken up, and if the bulbs are of a proper size, potted for another season's work; but it must be re- membered that the bulbs will not produce the desired results unless they have been properly cared for after blooming. The most desirable varieties are Clusi, which produces its stem-shaped, bright blue flowers in immense clusters; Cnmixinidata (the Wood Hyacinth), a native of Spain, producing its bright blue flowers in Hya- cinth-like spikes: CdtnpniiuUitd year, but refuse lo bear, what can be done?— W. N. s, O. 2,0;Hi. C.irbon.ttp of Copper. Could not experlmeut with It, simply b9oause no druggist seems to keep It In store. Where c )n It be hati?— Experimenter. 2.037. Draininz in Quicksand. Tiles fill up. How preveuteti?— <->Li» Sub. 2,0,38. Management of Hydrangeas. IMease tell what general treatment they require, how pruned, etc.?-H..S. T.,.V. Y. 2,0.39. Mandarin Ducks. Can you give address of breeder?— H. B., I'a. 2,(hlO. Book on General Gardening and Fruit Growing. What da you recommeud us best for the novice?— 10. E. D.. Alabama. 2.011. Strawberries After Strawberries. How long can they be grown on same land with profit?- North- ern Strawberry Grower. 2,042 Best Strawberries for Canada. Which are best for this section, and were can I get them?— W. B., AssA, Can. 2.043. Fitzwater Pear. What Isyour opinion of this frun?-H. A. .1., Yatea Co., N. Y. 2.044. Smoke vs. Frost. Has smoke proved a prac- tical means of protecting garden and fruit crops from Injury by early fall frosts?— C. J., Ind. 2.045. Remedy for Verbena Rust. My Verbenas last year were badly affected. What can I do to pre- vent recurrence of the trouble?- R. S. T., N. Y. 2,016. Powdery Mildew of the Rose. Please give Information about cause and cure — s T., City. 2.047. Sourkront Making. Please give recipe.— Pcckskill, N. r. 2.048. Pond Muck as Fertilizer. How It it used most economically?- H. O. N.. Ind. 2.049. Harvesting Beans. How done In simplest and cheapest way?— Planter, N. Y. 1.050. Pruning Roses. When should the old wood be cut out of the out-door Roses?— Constant Sub., W. Va. 2.051. Bisulphide oi Lime. Has It proved to be a reliable antiseptic and deodorizer?— Amateur. 2.052. Trees Around Dwelling. Is the dense shade of trees around the dwelling house Injurious to the health of the inmates?— G. S. T.. Ohio. 2.053. Castor Beans ior Profit. Which species should be planted, Palma Christ or Reclnus communis? What smallest quantltj' should be shipped with profit? Which Is my best and nearest market?— H.C. Cliayes Co., Tex. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 1,937. Treatment of Ferenoials after Bloom- ing. Perennials must not be cut down after blooming; if so they will be destroyed. The best way is to plant them in side beds where they will be no nuisance i and do not give such plants as Columbines the most prominent place in the garden as many are in the habit of doing. 1 916. Liquid Manure for Chrysanthemums, Give liquid manure by all means, especially if they are in pots. It will improve the bloom both in size and strength. The surest method of ob- taining large blocms is to pinch out all the buds but one or two on a stem. In this manner the large flowers at exhibitions are obtained.— H.C.T. 1,942.— Snbstitute for Glass in Hot-bed Making. Do not use any substitute. Cloths are sometimes used, but glass is much more satisfactory, es- pecially to amateurs — H. C. T. 1.929. Flan for Cold Fit. I kept tender plants through all the coldest weather in a common sash-covered cold pit two feet deep, packed in with leaves, and covered with a mat of burlap and heavy packing-paper halt inch thick, and a shutter to fit. Keep closed during severe weather, give all the sun and air you can. Ther- mometer once marked four below zero outside while in the pit it marked thirty-eight. A further preventative would be to cover the pit at night with snow.— H. 0. T. l,9ei. Tea Roses in Texas. They should make luxuriant growth and give the greatest satisfac- tion where you live.— H. C. T. 1,964. Eradicating Fnrslane. Your garden will never be free from Purslane so long as you allow any of it to seed. Frequent cultivation alone will conquer the enemy.— H. I'. T. 1,967. Weeds in Gravel Walks. A \igorous use of the shuflle hoe with plenty of muscle behind it will be the most effectual remedy in the end, and will keep your paths clean.— H.C.T. 1,949. Canning Green Corn. Our people can green Corn very successfully by the following method. The Corn is carefully cleaned and cut from the cobs, then i)ressed into the cans with a Potato masher as firmly as possible, so that the ,|uice will rise on top. The cans are partially sealed, and placed in boiling water four hours. Afterwards seal permanently. Be careful to place somethinsT in the bottom of the boiler to keep the cans from breaking.— L. .1. Farmer. 2,ni4. Maple Leaf Gall. The excrescences upon the Jlaple leaf arc produced by a very minute mite {PhyUipta ifliwiripcs Hhiincr). The galls produced by this mite are of common occurrence on the Maple in all parts of the country and, except for the disfiguring of the foliage, little damage results from their presence. Similar gulls produced by closely allied mites occur on many other forest and shade trees such as the liass. Ash, etc , and on fruit trees such us the Plum and Pear. No iraportimt e.\|ieriraents have been iniido looking to the extermination of these mites, and on account of their great abun- dance, and the protection afforded by their galls, operations against them would be difficult. —C. r.. Marlott, Acting Entomologist, Dept.Agi'turc. 2,024. Fropagating Stephanotis Floribunda. This beautiful stove plant, which produces its fragrant, pure white Howers in great abundance, succeeds best in turfy loam, and may be in- creased by cuttings of the previous year's growth, inserted singly in pots, in spring, and placed in close frame with a temperature of 60°. 2.017. Alpine Bush Strawberry. Plants are offered for sale by Ellwanger & Barry of Koches- ter, N. Y. Of course we would hardly advise anyone to plant large quantities of them, unless the grower can afford to make experiments on a large scale, or to enjoy the good things of life even if they come high— (J. R. 2.018. Market for Caraway Seeds. Caraway is a plant of easy cultivation, while the demand for the seed is limited. We hope one or the other of our readers can give the desired infor- mation about market and price. 2,020. Canadian Tariff on Fruits and Trees, On the first of April last the Canadian authorities adopted the following tariff schedule : Apples— 40 cents per bushel ; formerly free. Straw- berries, Goosberries, Raspberries and Black- berries—3 cents per pound ; formerly free. Cherries and Currants— 1 cent per quart. Cran- berries, Quinces and Plums— 30 cente iier bushel. Peaches- 1 cent per pound ; formerly free. Grapes— 1 cent per pound. Dried Apples— 2 cents per pound. Other fruits — 1 cent per pound. A duty was also imposed on nursery stock, as follows : Apple trees, 2 cents each ; Peach, Pear and Cherry trees, 4 cents each ; Plum trees, 5 cents; Quince trees, 3Ji cents; seedling stock tor grafting, 10 cents; Grape vines costing 10 cents and less, 3 cents each ; Blackberry and Raspberry bushes, 1 cent each ; Rose bushes 5 cents each. 2.019. Fungus Diseases of Spinach. It is plain that Spinach, Lettuce and other plants, the leaves of which are eaten, cannot be treated in the same way as we would treat Potatoes, fruit trees, shrubs, etc., for fungous diseases. The Spinach grower must, therefore, says a recent bulletin of the New Jersey experiment station, turn his attention to the soil, and seek to have it in the most healthful condition for the growth of clean plants. Whether the spores of the fungi can retain their vitality for a long or a short time it is a reasonable precaution to de- stroy all refuse leaves that accumulate in the beds and the assorting-house. It is a small matter to keep these leaves, loaded with thou- sands and millions of spores, from getting mixed with forming a part of the soil that may after- wards be used in growing Spinach. It is not simply a matter of neatness, but of preventing or checking the decay. The worst thing to do would be to throw the diseased leaves and refuse of the Spinach-bed upon the manure heap that afterwards is to furnish the material for the hot bed. It possible, change the location of the beds. Where the grounds cover several acres, it is possible to go some distance away from the old infested beds and start upon fresh ground. It has been demonstrated with many fungi, as the smut of Corn, tinions, etc., that the trouble increases with the length of time the same soil is covered with the same crop. In other words, the soil becomes impregnated with the spores, and the wisest plan to pursue is the abandon- ment of that crop and grow others, not suscep- tible to the same fungi, tor a few years, until the spores in the soil liie from lack of conditions for growth and propagation It is possible that the treatment of the soil with certain chemicals may rid it of the disease germs that may be present. Equal parts of air-slacked lime and flower of sulphur thoroughly raked into the bed might be in large measure preventive. With the soil in the best condition, it is possible to further use precautions b.v spraying the plants when quite smalt; and the surrounding soil, with some fungicides that are comparatively harmless to man. For this purpose hyposulphite of sodium, sulphate of potassium and sulphate of copper may be employed. 2,023. Quinces for Market. Whether it would pay you to plant .500 Quince trees, is more than wc or any other party could tell. Nor could we say whether it would pay you to plant Apples, or Pears, or Peaches, or any other fruit, large or small. All depends upon circumstances. There is a steady market for Quinces, as there is for other fruits. One of our neighbors has a Quince orchardjof 10,000 trees, and it is said he is making money. (Quinces are easily grown, and under favorable circumstances come in bearing when only a few years old, but the prices are greatly tiuctuating, and as also the case with other fruits, —sometimes fall far below the point where they cease to be profltable to the grower. The out- come also depends on your soil and location, on the treatment the orchard is given at your hands and on many other things. 2,026, Crandall Currant. This has betm before the public fin- a number of years, and it seems wc should at last be able to come to a deHnite understanding concerning its value as a fruit. Hut thus tar the reports have been very contra- dictory. Probably the Ci-andall is merely a selection from the Missouri Currant, and cer- tjiinly it is as yet far from uniform in size. Ac- cording to individual taste, the flavor is pro- noiuiced good by some, and iiiferior by others. It may even yet be questioned whether it will ever have any standing us a standard market fruit.-G. II. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 19 3.027. Everbearing Tree Blackberry. Our friend will do well to take the ileseriptions of novelties as found in some nurserymen's cata- logues cum gjano salts. Some allowance must be made for the general desire of salesmen to show their goods in the best possible light, and perhaps for their prejudice in favor of their own favorites. Itlackberrles as well as Currants, (iooseberries, Koses, etc., can be grown in tree form, and one variety is about as good for that purpose as any other. There is no Ulackberry that we know of, which would assume the tree form without being forced to do so by rigid pruning. Neither is there an everbearing Black- berry, strictly speaking, although some varieties frequently bear a second crop, and continue in bearing, we might say. from August until snow flies. Of course thislate fruit is always scatter- ing, and not of much account, practically. The inquirer asks about some other novelties, but we can only reply in a general way. From the tone of his letter we infer that he has freiiuently been disappointed in the novelties which he has tried on the strength of extravagant descriptions. " People ought not to advertise anything that is not worth buying," he says. We only have to say that the wording of those descriptions itself is usually a sure indication of what we may ex- pect. The extravagant and often absurd claims alone suggest the need of being suspicious and cautious. 2.028. Bnckwheat Straw as Unlch for Straw- berries. VTe see no reason why this should not be excellent. It is usually free from weed seeds and superior on that account alone. 2,02.5. Orape Vine Tomato Gall. The leaves and stems forwarded to this office are affected with the Grape Vine Tomato Gall. Dr. Lintner in bis fourth report of the " Injurious and other Insects of the State of New York " describes it as a most variable gall, being found of all sorts of fantastic shapes, from the single, round, Granl)eiry-like swelling on a tendril, to the large collection of irregular bulbous swellings on the stem or leaf-stalk; sometimes looking not unlike a bunch of Currants or a bunch of Grapes, but more often like a collection of di- minutive Tomatoes. This irregular, succulent swelling, which becomes red on stouter and riper portions, extends not only along the stem and leaf-stalks, but also invades the leaf-ribs. It contains small round hollows with an Orange- yellow larva in each. The fly, a native insect in- festing our wild vines, is only about one twenty- fifth of an inch in length, of a pale reddish color and blackish head, and known scientifically as liisiopteris vitis. The larva> are less than an eighth of an inch in length, of an ( irange yellow color, and apparently remain in the galls but a few days; life history in this respect is not fully known. The only thing that can be done in the way of preventing the trouble, is to remove the infested leaves or portions of stems as soon as galls are seen on them, and to burn them. But as the insect is native, and can always have the wild vines to breed on, however closely it may be stamped from our vineyards, we shall prob- ably never be entirely free from it : on the other hand, as it never has aT)peared in much force, it is not probable that it will, but it is not best to encourage its increase by neglect. It has been reported from various parts of the northern states, and is, without doubt, wide spread. ■2,(m. Grapevines Bemaining Barren. The cause is probably lack of proper fertilization. The occurrence related by enquirer is not an un- common one. Tliere are some seedlings and wild vines, says (Jeo. W. Campbell of Ohio in reply to a similar inquiry, which have only staminatc or male blossoms, that bloom abun- dantly, but bear no fruit. Others, and some of them are among the cultivated varieties, have what are called " imperfect blossoms," with short filaments and reflexed stamens. These under favorable circumstances, with pleasant weather at the time of blooming, will often bear rea.sonably well, with fairly good clusters. But if the weather is unfavoi'able, cloudy, cold, and rainy at this st?ason, the fertilization is imperfect and "the clusters arc loose and imperfect, and sometimes complete failure results. Another cause of barrencss may be neglect. A vine left to run wild, without proper training and prun- ing, growing in a tangled mass of small, weak shoots, will be very tardy in coming into bear- ing, and will sometimes bear nothing even when of mature age, and a fertile and perfect variety. 2,037. Draining in Quicksand. The object may be accomplished by using pipe tile, and in- serting the two joining ends into a collar, or into another shorter pipe-tile, which they will nearly fit. If the quicksand has a tendency to become too liiiuiil, says County Gentleman, the lit should be more close than in stiffer sand. If this tendency is slight, caps made from the broken portions of the large pipes may answer, or even small flat stones. Where the (luicksand is unusually soft it may be necessary to prevent the pipe-tile from settling or sinking in it, by first laying in the bottom of the ditch a narrow strip of hard wood board or plank on which to place the tile for its support. 2,034. Wintering Sweet Potatoes. Several methods were described in earlier issues. The following is practiced by a grower in Kentucky. The Potatoes are dug before frost, left exposed to the sun a day, and put in a cool place, spread thin, so as not to heat or sweat. When cold weather comes they are moved to the cellar. The bottom of box is covered with about three inches of dust ; on this a layer of Potatoes is placed close together, but not so as to touch each other; and more dust is put upon them; then another layer of Potatoes, then dust, and so until the box is nearly full. Then fill up with dust. If the dust has enough of pulverized charcoal mixed with it to make it a black color, so much the better. This seems to preserve the Potatoes better. If the Potatoes have been handled carefully, dug before frost, and the dust is thoroughly dry, they will keep through most any winter.— N. B. 2,03«. Carbonate of Copper. You will very rarely find this drug in store at drug stores. We could not even get a supply in Buffalo, and had to order it from a wholesale house in New York City. When the demand for it becomes general, there is no doubt it will be kept on sale in the ordinary drug stores. Prof. Babcock says that carbonate of copper ought to be found in a dry powder at any wholesale paint store. Commer- cially it is known as " mineral green" and should be asked for under that name. If intended for use with water for spraying it may be prepared by dissolving five pounds of sulphate of copper (blue stone) in two gallons of water and pouring into a tub containin!? six pounds of carbonate of soda (sal soda) dissolved in two gallons of water ; this wiU make a thick green mud or paste which may be mixed with more water to a proper consistency for spraying, or if the car- bonate of copper is to be used dry, the mixture is allowed to settle and the liquid poured off and thrown away. The sediment is washed by adding more water, settling and pouring off as before. The thick paste of carbonate of copper is then dried in the sun or exposure to the air. 2,021. Dandelions for Greens, The cultivation of Dandelions is quite simple. Sow seed in early spring in drills one foot apart and thin or trans- plant to eight or ten inches apart in the rows. Cultivate and keep free from weeds, in short manage as you would any other close planted garden vegetable. Leaves may be gathered and used in fall. The plantation will continue to yield salad and gi-eens material during the spring following. European gardeners often blanch it by covering the plants with sand, or placing an inverted flower pot over each plant. This treat- ment improves tenderness and quality. If prop- perly handled there is no danger of its becoming troublesome as a weed. It is easily killed by cutting below the crown, as usually done in getting the crop, or by plowing under. Gardens near the large cities are using Dandelions now largely in place of Spinach for forcing under glass. The plants have to be grown in open air, are planted out in frames at approach of the cold season, eight inches apart, and receive the same general treatment as usually given to Spinach.— G. R. 2,0U. Planting Bhnbarb. This may be done with equal success in fall or spring, according to the convenience of the grower. l.!i!i2. Tuberons-rooted Begonias. How prop- agated ? By cuttings to ]ierpetuate particular varieties; by leaves for the same purpose, but with more difficulty, by seed for general pur- poses. The seeds are exceedingly small but germinate freely, the trouble, however, comes in keeping the seedlings all alive after they do come up. Raise the seedlings in spring so as to have a long season before you to grow them on in, and get big bulbs before winter. The plants bloom from seed the first year. 1,»»7. £zochotda grandiflora. How Treatedl Like any other deciduous garden shrub, it re- quires no particular cultivation. Plant it early in tall or early in spring in well drained, deeply worked, but not freshly manured soil, and plant firmly and mulch the ground deep in summer with littery stuff of any kind, remembering to keep the mulching away from touching the stem. And try to get a seedling plant rather than one raised from a layer or other means; the seedlings usually are the best and firmest rooted. But bear in mind that the Exochorda isn't very hardy, whether or no it is hardy in your jiart of the country you can only find out by experiment or looking around among your neighbors. 2,042. Best Strawberry for Canada. K\ery grower should decide questions concerning fruit varieties for himself. The nearest neighbors also can give him safer and more reliable advice than any party at a distance. In the imiuirer's place we would try Bubach, Warfleld, Haver- land, Crescent, Wilson, perhaps Jessie and ^harp- Icss, and not neglect to plant enough plants of the perfect flowering kind, especially Wilsons, to secure the fertilization (fructification) of the pistillates, like Uubach, Warfleld, Haverland and Cresent. Plants can be bought of some near grower, or any reliable advertising nursery- man. I.iiWi. Golden Elder Leaves Dying. They always do after mid-summer, no matter whether the weather be hot or cold, wet or dry. There is no complete remedy. But a partial one is to plant in well-drained, somewhat moist land, shaded from the south and west, but especially from the south-west. Warm sunshine immedi- ately succeeding wet, dull or muggy weather most always scalds the leaves, and the warmer the weather the greater the scalding. The vari- egated Box Elder, the Golden-leaved Philadel- phus and several other colored-leaved shrubs suffer in the same way, and for this reason have fallen into much disfavor.— Wm. F. 2,043. Fitzwater Fear, A basket of this fruit was received at this office in November last. We found it of medium size ; abovate, obtuse pyriform : bright golden yellow on greenish ground with numerous small brownish dots or specks over the the whole surface, and sprinkled with russet ; stem nearly an inch long, calyx open. Quality very good ; flesh juicy, melting, aromatic. On the whole it has the characteris- tics of the Lawrence, so much so. indeed, that we have heard nurserymen assert the two Pears were one and the same. 2.048. Pond Hnck' for Fertilizer. If rightly handled, this is valuable material, not only on account of the large percentage of nitrogen it contains, but also for its carbon, which is so greatly needed on many of our run-down soils. Of course the nitrogen is not immediately avail- able, but can be made so by composting, and will become so in time anyway. The decaying vegetable matter of which muck mostly consists, is a help to both thin sandy soils, and stiff clay. It makes the one more retentive and the other more porous and open. Whenever you have a chance, dig and throw out the muck where it will be exposed to the air, and dry out. Then use it in the stables, and compost it with stable manure. Put it a foot deep under the animals in the stalls. It is splendid as an absorber of liquid manures. In short by the free use of dry pond muck you can double or treble the size and value of your manure heap. 2.049. Harvesting Beans. The gathering in Western New York is generally done by means of a machine mounted on wheels like a wheel culti- vator. It is made to straddle two rows, says D. A. Barker in Tribune, has two steel blades per- haps four feet long, that cut off the roots just under the surface, and are set to run the two rows together ready to handle with a light steel Barley-fork. When ground is soft. Beans can be pulled by hand and set, roots up, two rows to- gether. They need to be moved on to fresh ground after every rain that wets much, to keep them from getting stained. Machines to thresh Beans are much like a Wheat separator, but if one raises Beans where there are no Bean ma- chines they can be trod out by horses very well. In cleaning up in a fanning-mill one should have zinc sieves to fit the kind of Beans to clean. The top sieve should let the Beans through and take all dirt and pods over, and the second should let everything smaller than (the Beans through into the chess-bo.x, and let the clean Beans down in front of the mill. 1,048. Long Standing Sammer Spinach, This has the general apF>earance of the ordinary Round-Leaf, but it holds out a few days longer without going to seed. This for a summer Spinach is a decided advantage. 2,012. Keeping Onions over Winter. In a general way we would nf straw. If in good cddition and sufficient depth of co\ering is used, thi'v will keep in fine condition till May. A cofti dry cellar of some outbuilding, barn or carriage house will be found excellent for keep- ing Onions, if it has windows tor ventilation. The cellar of a dwelling house is usually too warm. Many farmers practice spreading Onions on scaffolds about six inches deep, with rfiom enough between the boards for the air to circu- late. On approach of cold weather close the doors and windows, and keep the temperature just above the Ireezing jioint. With proper care they can thus be kept without freezing at all, and will come out nice and sound in the spring. 20 POPULAR GARDENING. October, 1,959. Dtpth of Planting Potatoes. Very many trials have recently been made witlr the view of discovering which depth of planting usually gives the best results. In our own tests seeds was put 2, 4, 8, 8 and 10 inches below the surface. We found that the deeper we planted, the further down we had to dig after the crop, and that the comparative yields depended some- what on the season, whether wet or dry. (In the whole, we consider four inches just about right. This admits of the use of the smoothing harrow after planting, and of level culture. In moist heavy soils we might prefer to plant only three, or even two inches deep, and practice the hilling method. 3.001. Preventing Tomato Bot. Of course it is too late for this season to do anything. The rot is caused by a fungus, the growth ot which is favored by warm moist weather. The only thing that promises Uy give relief from these fungus attacks is spraying with the Bordeaux mixture or other copper solutions. 2,046. Powdery Mildew of Eose. This fungus is closely related to the Gooseberry mildew, and has the same habit of growth. The surfaces of the affected parts, says Prof. Scribner, are covered with a more or less dense web-like or felt-like growth, consisting of a vast number of very fine and delicate slender tubes closely wo- ven together. On older leaves this growth usually appears as white blotches; on young leaves both surfaces are often completely covered. The diameter of leaf stalk and shoot is abnormally in- creased. The leaves never fully expand, and often become spotted with purple. Such leaves are un- able to perform their normal functions, and their duration is brief. The fungus is reproduced both by summer and winter spores. The mil- dew is most troublesome when appearing in the greenhouse. Prof. S. T. Maynard thinks that the disease may be brought on (1) by exposure of the plants to draughts of extreme cold air when growing rapidly; (2) by high temperature when kept up both day and night; (3) by water- ing or syringing just before night; (4) by too little water; (5) by extreme dryness; («) by poor drainage; (7) by a deficiency of plant food. Sul- phur in a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees V. gives off fumes which are destructive to vegetable life, and will kill the fungus, but we must take care, else by a too liberal use of the sulphur in a warm atmosphere, especially during the hot days of summer, the bushes may be defoliated and killed. In greenhouses, or other inclosed spaces, the fumes of sulphur may be forced off by heat- ing brimstone in any convenient receptacle, al- lowing the vapor to fill the room until there is a preceptible odor of sulphur throughout. Due care must be taken that the brimstone does not take fire. The liver of sulphur (sulphuret of po- tassium) in solution, H to !^ ounce to the gallon of water, is an excellent remedy for this Rose mildew, being readily applied with any ordinary sprayer. 2,033. Making Vinegar and Keeping Cider Sweet. Vinegar making is easy enough if you have good cider and patience. Keep the barrel in a warm place filled up to the bung, and re- filling as needed. When done working, draw off into an old vinegar barrel, filling it not over two- thirds full. Keep the bung hole covered with a piece of screen to exclude vinegar flies. If kept in a warm place, it may make good strong vine- gar in less than six months' time. In an ordinary cellar it will take longer. We know of no drug that could be used with safety, which will keep cider perfectly sweet. Salicilic acid one or two ounces to the barrel, is sometimes used and rec- ommended, but we would not care to use "sweet cider " thus doctored as a beverage. A pound of mustard seed put in a barrel of cider, will keep it in tolerably fair condition as long as kept bunged up tight, and not disturljed otherwise. The only practical way of keeping cider per- fectly sweet is by putting it in bottles, heating them and their contents to near the.boiling point and then sealing up air-tight. 2,045. Bemedy for Verbena Bnst. Rust is in- vited by an enfeebled condition of the plants and that the way to prevent therefore is to pro- mote vigorous growth. In our experience with this plant on a large scale, we have never been sei'iously troubled with this ailment. The course of culture pursued has been as follows. The stock has been propagated in the latter part of Sept. from virgin succulent growth obtained from out-door plants. After rooting, the plants have been grown in a low house, in a tempera- ture ranging from 45 to 55 degrees at night, keeping them abundantly aired and well watered at all times. If signs of rust appeared such plants were thrown out ; if mildew, Hower of sulphur was applied after a watering, keeping the house close for several hours. Although air was provided very freely almost every day in the winter, yet pains were taken not to have a stray draught of cold sweep over the young plants. By this course we have always secured an abundance of cuttings for propagation from fall-struck plants by the February following and the plants from these were in the healthlst condition possible. 2,044. Smoke vs. Frost, This matter is hardly out of the experimental stage, and the outlook for a general adoption of the practice of fighting frost by smoke is not very promising. In a clear, still night. Just when frost can be expected to do harm, the smoke refuses to spread over the land as a blanket, but prefers to go perpendicularly upwards and be lost without leaving much benefit. Unreliability of the remedy will pre- vent people from exerting themselves very much in order to fight a threatened but uncer- tain danger. In many cases, however, the bad CELERIAC, COMMON AND APPLE-SH»PED. effects of a frost ma.v be prevented, wholly or partially, by means of burning heaps of green brush, rotten wood, and rubbish of all sorts, or still better of a mixture of moist sawdust and tar. The contrivance for erecting a steady dense smoke, as described and illustrated in last volume of Popular Gardening, consists of a simple wire frame holding a perforated pan with coal tar that is dripping down slowly into a charcoal fire below. A number of these smoke producers are stationed at regular intervals on the windward side of the area to be protected. The Turnip-Rooted Celery. Celeriac, as the Turnip-rooted Celery Is usually called, is quite popular among old country people, especially Germans, but not generally grown and appreciated in Ameri- can home gardens. This may be due to its somewhat peculiar flavor to which one has to become accustomed before one can gel very fond of it. We consider the bulb when boiled most excellent for mixing with salads, or for flavoring soups; and the tops may also be used as soup Celery. Its cultivation is simple enough. Plants are started in exactly the same way as com- mon Celery, either in cold frames or in open ground, and planted out as a second crop, in rows about 18 inches apart, with 10 or 12 inches space between the plants. The ground should be rich, moist and mellow, and well-prepared. If the preceding early crop was heavily manured, little if anyaddi- tional fertilizer will be required. After-cultivation is much the same as practiced by good gardeners for other varie- ties of Celery, and consists chiefly of frequent and thorough hoeing to keep the ground loose and active. Earthing up is not re- quired. The crop can be gathered in late fall, topped like Beets or Carrots and other- wise treated and stored like these root crops. The common variety, shown at the left of illustration, has been the only one in culti- vation in America; although French and German seedsmen catalogue quite a number of varieties. Among them we have Large Early Erfurt, Large Smooth Paris, New Ap- ple-Shaped and I^arge Smooth Prague. The New Apple-Shaped is shown at the right of illustration. It was introduced by Messrs. Vilmorin & Co., of Paris, several years ago. We have never been able to grow as fine bulbs as those pictured. This year we are trying the Large Smooth Prague. Altogether we would not consider the garden complete without one or the other of these varieties of Turnip- rooted Celery. Greenhouse Construction and Heating. Experimental forcinghouses have recently been put up at the Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station. The description given by Prof. L. R. Taft, in Bulletin No. 63, is of especial interest, as the experimental feature, so far as possible, had been kept in view even as to construction and heating. The style of houses selected, says Prof. Taft, was the common even span, the two houses being placed side by side, with a wall in common. They ex- tend north and south, with a building at the north end, 30 x 25 feet, to be used for pot- ting and similar work, and in the basement of which the heaters are situated. The greatest defects in the ordinary forcing house, are, that there is too much wood in the roof in the shape of rafter and sash bars, and that suflicient care is not taken to so erect them that they will not rot, or the walls, if brick, be broken apart by frost. The side and end walls are of cement below ground, and of wood above the surface. Thisarrangement should give a warm and lasting wall. The location selected is level, and an ex- cavation 50x40 feet by one foot in depth was made for the house. Upon a footing course six inches thick, a wall of cement (grout) two feet high and one foot thick was laid, as shown in the sec- tion of wall. The excavated soU was used for grading against this on the outside and the grade was brought to the top of the cement. If properly built they will do ser- vice for a long time. On this wall a 2x5 inch plank is fastened by means of anchor bolts set in theconcrete, and on this a hollow wooden wall two feet high and nine inches thick, consisting of two by six inch studs, with building paper and matched ceiling inside, and sheathing, building paper and siding outside. The side gutters were formed of two by ten inch planks with narrow strips naQed on to form the sides. This costs less than a gutter made from one piece, and is fully as satis- factory. The gutter between thejhouses re- quires a twelve inch plank, the gutter itself being six inches in width. Anything nar- rower would not be advisable. In order to carry off the water the houses were given a fall of two inches toward the south. The roof was made of permanent sash bars one foot apart, made of White Pine and White-wood, eleven feet and three inches long and 1^^x23^ in cross section. The southern Cypress is considered very de- sirable for this purpose, but White Pine, with all joints laid in white lead, and kept painted inside and out, will prove lasting. It not properly painted it will soon rot out. A ridge piece can be made from a 1)^x6 inch board, and for supporting this a row of posts made of P4 Inch gas pipe was used. These also serve as supports for the main heating pipes. When the sash bars are more than eight feet in length they should be strengthened by some form of purlins and purlin posts. We used one inch iron pipe, fastened to the middle of the sash bars, and supported by another pipe of the same size running to the center posts. These are neat, strong, inexpensive and have the added qualities of 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 21 shutting off little light and not rotting out. It was not possible to have the posts fall vertically as they would come in the middle of the walks. The glass used for covering the houses was 10x12 double strength. The first cost is less, and in case of breakage the repairs will be considerably less than if a larger size is used. Under all ordinary circumstances it will not be wise to use smaller than 10x12 glass or to have the sash bars less than 12 inches apart. A number of glazing methods were em- ployed. Two sections were put in with Ga.sser's glazing strips between the panes. This is a strip of zinc a halt inch wide and of a length equal to the distance between the sash bars. They are bent something like the letter Z and are placed be- tween the panes with one edge under the upper pane and the other e.\tending over the under one. A thin layer of lead putty was placed between the strip and the glass. This served to cement the glass to the zinc, and made a joint both air and water tight. There Is no danger of the glass slipping down, and crack- ed panes are less likely to drop out than when glazed in the usual way. So far as the roof itself is concerned it will be found a profitable invest- ment. The one drawback is that the strips shut out some of the light. An equal space ^Yas covered with glass butted together. Beginning at thebot- tom a pane was laid and securely fastened. A thin layer of lead putty was then applied to the lower edge of the next pane and this was firmly pressed against the edge of the pane below, pushing out all putty that was not required to fill the irregularities in the edges of the panes. They were thus cemented together by a thin film of white lead putty, making in reality one solid pane in each row. The house lias now been in use one winter and we have not been able to find even a pin hole through which water or air can pass. We find in this method all of the good points of the zinc strip glazing, and in addition the cost of the strip is saved, while there is no loss of light. A matter of considerable Importance in the dark season. The resetting in case of breakage can be performed fully as easily as in any other method of glazing. In either of these methods of glazing, the glass lies flat on the sash bars, and there is no place underneath that must be filled with paint or putty, or left open to allow the entrance of water and the rotting of the sash Ijars. On the remainder of the house the glass was lapped one-eighth of an inch, and every effort was made to have the joints as tight as possilde. Yet the roof is not as tight as could be wished, and slightly more glass is required than when the panes are butted. The doubling of the glass at the lap has the eflfect also of lessening the amount of light that can enter the house. An inproved sash bar and method of glaz- ing is shown at the right upper corner of illustration. So far as we have heard, it has given general satisfaction. It can be used either with butted glass or with Gasser's glazing strip. so far as the grate and heating surface were concerned. The pipes were arranged as follows : In the steam house, two l'.^ inch pipes are carried to a point two feet below the ridge. and then gradually fall to the other end. The strip of wood can be drawn down I where they divide, each supplying three upon the glass by means of screws or by nails. No putty need be used, although paint putty is often run on to fill the crack. Whatever method of glazing is used, the panes should fill the space between the sash bars. Ventilators. The houses are arranged with ventilators on each side of the rogf. Three of these rows of ventilators are hinged at the ridge, each sash being 5 feet 2 inches by 2 feet 2 inches. The other row consists CROUNE) PLAN JntKrtor 0/ Steam Heated House. GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION AND HEATING AT THE MICHIGAN EXPERIMENT STATION of narrow sash extending from the ridge to the gutter. On one side of the east house there are five of these sash, each 16 inches by n feet 3 inches. These are designed to lift up by means of iron levers so that they will stand from four to six inches above and parallel to the line of the roof. They will seldom be needed during the winter, but for summer ventilation I shall expect to find them very eflicient. The ridge ventilators are attached to el- bow joint fixtures that are connected with a shaft of one inch gas pipe running through the house just under the ridge. This en. ables us to raise at the same time all the ventilators that are attached to the shaft. Of the three machines tested the past winter, namely the Evans, Hippard and Scollay, all have worked to perfect satisfac- tion. Steam and hot water heating. The two houses being constructed exactly alike, it afforded an excellent opportunity for making a comparative test of the merits of hot water and steam, for the heating of I small greenhouses. Small wrought iron pipes in the hot water heated house instead of the four inch cast iron pipes that have been almost universally used until the last few years. The cost of the pipe is less, and it screws together in long lengths instead of being packed every nine feet or less. The heaters selected were Furman No 2, and they were exactly alike for both houses, ' Iji inch returns; one of the returns is be- neath the center bench, and the others are fastened to the legs of the side benches. The flow pipes are supported by brackets clamped upon the center posts ; they are provided with globe valves and with .Jen- kins automatic air valves. There is in this house 400 linear feet of 1)4 inch pipe with a radiating surface of 200 feet. This gives one foot of radiating surface to 31 cubic feet of space, and one to .53-2 square feet Of glass. The hot-water house has two flow pipes of the same size and similar in arrangement to those in the steam house, each of which supplies a \li inch return pipe located be- neath the center bench. In addition, there are two 2 nch fiow pipes IV' 1^ .^VnJ ^^^^ of which sup- rv'Qv::^ piles two 1»^ inch ■^" " returns. These are all located on the legs of the side benches. In both houses the pipes rise to their high- est point as soon as they leave the heater, and de- scend uniformly from that point. The hot house contains 400 lineal feet of 1}< inch pipe and 100 feet of 2 inch, with 275 sq. feet of radia- ting surface, be- ing one to 253^ cubic feet of space, or to 4 square feet of glass. In summing up the result, Prof. Taft says that the test thus far made indicate that hot water heating is both more economical and more satisfactory than steam heating for small greenhouses. The use of small wrought-iron pipes from 1)^ to 2 inches in diameter, according to the size of the house (a smaller size even might be preferable for the returns in a small house), will be found desirable. For most purposes the combined overhead and under bench system seems better suited, than to have the pipes either all overhead or under the benches. Prof .Taft gives us the following additional information : Cost. The cost of the two houses, com- plete with heating and ventilating appar- atus all told was -J^OOO The heaters cost $120 each, and the pipes, valves and other fixtures, and labor in setting up, made the cost of the heating apparatus in both houses about -*4.50. One large heater would have answered for both houses, and had this been used instead of two small ones, a saving of nearly fifty dollars would have been made in the cost of the heating plant. The cost of the iron posts, pipe purlins, braces, etc., for both houses, and labor of putting up, was in the vicinity of f50. and the ventila- ting apparatus something over $T5. The glass was obtained at a cost of $100. The story-and-a-half work room is much larger than would be needed in an ordinary 22 POPULAR GARDENING. October, commercial establishment, and no account is made of it in the above estimate. During the winter, about six tons of coal was required by the water heater to main- tain the inside temperature at night at 55°. When we consider the durability of the houses and the efficiency of its different parts, few it any changes suggest them- selves. The cement wall between the houses might be done away with, and a cheaper method of ventilating could be used that might answer equally well. Why This General Failure of the Tree Fruits? Unsatisfactary and annoying as the fact is, that the present fruit crop is the smallest the country has grown in many years, it will be interesting, nevertheless, to look into the causes of this calamity. Prof. L. H. Bailey, Horticulturist of the Cornell University Experiment Station, gives his views as to the whys and wherefores in Bulletin XIV, issued by that institution, from which we extract the following: The facts in the case are that the promise of fruit was never better in Western New York than last spring. Yet the Apple crop is almost a total failure, Peaches and Plums are few. Pears are probably less than half a crop, and Quinces range from small to fair crops in various sections. Raspberries and Blackberries have yielded indifferently. Only the Strawberry and Grape crops are satisfactory. The spring was exceedingly wet, and mostly cool. When the orchards were in bloom unusually heavy rains fell. Shortly afterwards the blossoms withered and fell, and the leaves of Apples, Pears and Quinces began to blight. The rains were succeded by drouth, which, in some sections, became severe. During the early part of the season the blight of the foliage increased, until, in July, the trees in thousands of acres of Apple orchards appeared to be dying. In many places the Quince orchards appeared to be scorched, and the foliage of the Pears was speckled. Peaches dropped their leaves and fruits early in season. The Blackberries and later Raspberries in some sections, dried up, and the bushes looked unhealthy. Apples, Pears, Quinces. The idea ap- pears to be universally accepted that cold and heavy rains at blooming time will pre- vent heavy blooming of the flowers. Yet I know of no reason for thinking it of suffic- ient moment for the failure of a crop. For instance, two Seckel Pear trees, equally ex- posed and of the same age, both of which bore a heavy crop last year, stand but a rod apart, and were in bloom at the same time; one has no fruit and the other is loaded. We have all observed good crops of fruit in years when heavy rains fell during the blooming season. It should be borne in mind that fully four- fifths of the flowers of Apples and Pears fall naturally. The flowers are borne in clus- ters, yet the fruits are usually borne singly. The redundancy of flowers appears to be nature's method of insuring fertilization, by increasing the amount of pollen and multi- plying the chances of success. In most cases the Apples had set, and were about the size of small Peas when they began to die. They withered, turned brown and fell. The Greenings died before the late flowering sorts, but aU were proba- bly attacked at about the same period of growth. At the same time, the young leaves began to look unhealthy, and they rapidly assumetl a blighted appearance. All these facts show that there is an inti- mate connection between the death of the flowers or young fruit and the blighting of the leaves. The blight is caused by the Apple-scab fungus. Whether the flowers or the young fruits were actually attacked by the fungus in this case, or whether they fell because of the impaired vitality of the injured trees, I am unable to say, but it is probably that their death is due in large part to the fungus. This fungus (Fusicladium dendriticum), so destructive to foliage, causes the scab upon the fruit itself. It is nearly always present upon both leaves and fruit, but it is rarely so destructive to foliage as this year. It has increased rapidly in New York of late years, and the wet spring afforded it just the conditions for rapid growth. It appears to be somewhat more upon low and un- drained lands than upon high and warm elevations. A closely related species (Fusicladium pyrinuin, by some regarded as identical with the other) attacks the Pear, both fruit and foliage, and it has probably caused much of the failure in the Pear crop. The leaf-blight upon the Quince, very serious in many parts, is caused by an en- tirely different fungus (Etitomosporium mueuUitum, known also as Morthicra Mcs- piU). This leaf blight must not be con- founded with fhe Pear blight which attacks the Quince as well as the Pear, and is char- acterized by the uniform death and brown- ing or blackening of the whole leaf or branch and the entire absence of spots. The only remedy for this is to remove and burn the diseased portions, taking care to cut off the branches several inches below the lowest visible point of attack. Treatments. The injury to Apples, Pears and Quinces by the scab fungus is not a vital one. In the worst cases the vitality of the trees may be checked for a year or two. As a rule, the effect of the leaf blight in Western New York this year, will probably be to develop a large crop of fruit buds. But if next spring should be wet and cool, the fungus would in all probability spread again, as it has this year. At all events, it is to be expected that Apples will be scabby, as they have been in other years, and unless the weather is unusually favorable, the fruit will be likely to suffer seriously. The last two seasons have demonstrated that carbonate of copper is a sure remedy for the Apple scab fungus. Not less than three applications should be made,— one before the blossoms open, one just after they fall, and another three or four weeks later. These applications, even when a half dozen, need not cost more than 15 to 25 cents for a large tree for the whole season, counting both materials and labor. The following are good formulas; 1 Dissolve 1 oz. carbonate of copper in 1 qt. of aqua-ammonia; dilute with 100 qts. of water when ready to apply. 3. Place 2 lbs. of copper sulphate in sufficient hot water to dissolve it, and In another vessel dissolve 2J^ lbs. carbonate of soda. Mix, and before using add 1% plats of ammonia, and then dilute with water to about 30 gallons. This is the modified eaxi celeste mixture. The former is probably the better. The Quince leaf-blight (Entomosporium) is readily destroyed upon Quince and Pear stocks by four or flve applications of Bor- deaux mixture. The following is a good formula for Bordeaux mixture: Dissolve 6 lbs. sulphate of copper in 16 guls. water. In another vessel slake 4 lbs. fresh lime in 0 gals, of water. When the latter cools, pour it slowly into the copper solution, mixing the two thoroughly. It is best to prepare the mix- ture a day or two before using. Peaches. Peaches have suffered from curl-leaf (Taphrino deformans), the curcu- lio and the yellows. For leaf curl a spray of sulphate of iron in spring before the buds swell is suggested. The curculio is readily held in check by the familiar process of jarring unto sheets. Paris green at the rate of 1 lb. to .3.50 gals., applied several times, beginning just after the blossoms fall, will be found useful. The only remedy for the yellows is to cut out every affected tree. This must be done systematically and thoroughly, or Peach culture is doomed. Small Fruits. The most serious trouble among small fruits is the anthracnose or cane-rust of Raspberries (known as Qlaos- porium vctictum or O. vecatnr). It also attacks the Blackberry. In the treatment of this disease it is very important that the plants be kept in a thrifty condition. I..ight and frequent cultivations in loose and well-tilled soil are much less expensive than half the amount of tillage upon neglected or poorly treated soil, and their effect upon the plants is greater. The Strawberry blight (SphcereUti frn- garke; known also as Ramidaria TuUisnci) has been bad in some sections and upon some varieties. The most approved remedy is potassium sulphide or sulphuret (" liver of sulphur ") sprayed upon the vines about once a week, from the beginning of the growing season until the fruit begins to ripen, at the rate of about 1 oz. to 8 gallons. After the crop is gathered the plants may be mown and burned off, or destroyed by spraying with 1 pint of sulphuric acid to 6 gallons of water. New leaves soon start up, and the plants are not injured. The advent of the rots and mildews in the New York vineyards is not a cause of alarm. The means are at hand to keep them in check easily and economically. Some vine- yardists are now using fungicides with good success. The anthracnose appears to be particularly injurious in attacking the wood, especially of nursery stock. This is the fungus which causes the scab of the berry and black, shallow pits upon the wood. The mildews and rots can be kept in check by spraying of Bordeaux mixture from be- fore the flowers open every week until well into August. For anthracnose, sulphate of iron is ap- plied before leaves appear. After-treatment should be made with Bordeaux mixture. To MARKET MEN. Do uot forget that the price of fruits and some vegetables in a package is usually fixed by the poorest, never by the best specimens. A SPECIAL EXHIBITION of jam, jellics, syrups, fruit vinegars, bottled fruits, fruits preserved whole in syrup, fruits In spirits, crystalized and candied fruits and dried fruits will beheld under the auspices of the Royal Horticultural Society, of England, in the Drill Hall, Jamesstreet, West- minster, on Oct. 14th, 1.5th and 16th. Not only British grown, but also colonial and foreign grown fruits are invited. The chief aim of this move is to draw attention to the great advance that has been made in the last quarter of a cen- tury in the preservation of fruits for winter use. Medals, certificates, etc., will be granted by the council on the recommendation of the Judges. Grape Growers Happy. Amid the desola- tion of the fruit crop failure that prevails so widely, it is pleasant to note exceptions here and there, A report from the vineyard regions of Chautauqua Co., N. Y., indicates that the crop is of much better quality than it was last year, and is the largest harvested in many years, owing to the fact that many new vineyards are beginning to bear. Better returns are being realized by the growers than last year. Com- mission men are offering $.55 a ton delivered to the station. A Board of Trade has been estab- lished with a chairman located at Brocton. All the associatiims and small shippers belong to it. The price of Grapes on track is established every day. The number of cars shipped the day previous and their destination is wired every morning to the chairman by each shipper and association. Then the chairman wires a state- ment of these facts to each association and shipper, and the placement of cars for that day will be governed by this report. The price of Grapes tor the day is ascertained by each asso- ciation sending its estimated value of Grapes for that day. Then an average of the different prices is struck and that average must be the price for the day. North East, Pa., Ripley, Westfleld, Portland, Brocton, Fredonia, and Dunkirk, belong to the Board of Trade. POPULAR GARDENING AND FRUIT GROWING. "ACCUSE NOT NATURE, SHE HATH DONE HER PART: DO THOV BUT THINE." -^Uuioti. ^At; ' fringe the way ; Every turn fresh beauty finding Fairer than the fiush of May. —Peck in Boston Transcript . The Export of evaporated Apples, last year, amounted to about -"2,000,000 pounds, at an esti- mated value of over S3,000,000. This source of our national income will dwindle down to a very small figure this year. Bedded in the Pots. It was a surprise to the %nsiting florists to Boston recently to learn that the Geraniums used in the Public Gardens were all in pots plunged. That accounts for the short growth and free bloom. Ribbon Glass (Ktdalia Japonica varlegata} makes a charming plant for arranging amongst flowers or foliage in the window or conservatory. Use young plants. The Zebra Grass iE.Japo7iica Zebrina) is also a graceful pot plant, but does not usually thrive for any length of time in small pots under glass. Some Fine Grapes. A basket of Green Moun- tain Grapes were received in good condition first week in September, from Stephen Hoyt's Sons, New Canaan, Conn. This is a good Grape. Clusters good sized, shouldered, not too close; berry of medium size, light green with bloom; exceedingly sweet and pleasant; pure, free from pulp. The Moyer Grape, a basket of which we re- ceived from A. S. Watson, Westfleld, Chautauqua Co., N. Y., is also a good Grape. Clusters smallish, close; dull red, somewhat like an overripe Delaware. Berry larger than Delaware; sweet, melting, without pulp. Green Manuring. Whether the practice of turning under a green crop of Clover or Black Peas for manure results in " temporary killing the land by acetous fermentation, so that nothing will thrive on it,'' as alleged by a southern writer to be the case anywhere south of the 33d parallel north latitude, is a question which we would like to see ventilated. There are many cases reported also by northern culti- vators, where the plowing under of heavy crops of green manure such as Clover, have resulted in " souring " the land, and ruining succeeding crops, but this is not a usual occurence, and it may not be so even at the south. Let our southern readers speak out. We believe it to be a good plan for all sections to let the green crop die down naturally, leading it thus until time for plowing in spring, and then turn it u nder. What say the stations ? The Experiment Stations. Unquestionably many of the state experiment stations have not yet given promise of returning to the people an equivalent of their cost. It is true, that we care little about mere literature— bulletins with little practical information— and that it takes time to evolve new facts of value. Still the contrast between the work done by a few of these stations with that of the great majority is remarkable. In consideration of the newsy, valuable bulletins, so full of interesting and instructive matter, we have been continuously receiving from the stations connected with the agricultural colleges of Massachusetts, Michigan, New Jersey, New York (Cornell*, Ohio, Minnesota, Wisconsin Iowa, Vermont, Connecticut, etc., and from the Geneva, N. Y., station under Dr. Sturtevant's management we can only be sorry to see that the same results have not yet been forthcomin from many of the other stations. Horticulture at the Columbia Exposition. Delegates from over thirty Horticultural and Trade Associations met in Chicago on August 27th and organized a societ.v to be known as Columbian Horticultural Association, and to remain permanently until the close of the World's Fair. The officers elected, also to re- main permanently until the close of E-xposition, are. President, S. M. Emery, Lake City, Minne- sota; Vice-President, C. L. Watrous. Des Moines, Iowa; Secretary, H. B. Beaty, Oil City, Pennsyl- vania; Assistant Secretary, G. H. Grant, Chicago, Hlinois ; Treasurer, M. A. Thayer. Sparta, Wis- consin. A committee was appointed to cor- respond with the Executive Department of the Columbian Exposition, and it laid before that body a summary of the plans in regard to the horticultural features of the ex- hibition, and recommended to their favor- able consideration the appointment of the following named persons tor the offices des- ignated : For Commissioner of Horticulture, Parker Earle, Ocean Springs, Mississippi ; for Superintendent of Floriculture and Landscape Gardening, James D. Ra.vnolds, Kiyerside, Illinois; for Superintendent of Pomology, G. B. Brackett, Denmark, Iowa ; for Superintendent of Nursery and Fores- try products George B. Thomas, West Chester, Pennsylvania; for Superintendent of Seeds and Vegetable Department, J. C. Vaughan, Chicago, Illinois. for they will not answer in the winter months. The best plan for using the tent is to have the plants set out where they are to be covered by it at a distance of about 20 inches apart each way, if set out in spring ; if set out in July or August, they should be set closer, say Vi inches apart, but at whatever season they are planted, if before the middle of August, small, healthy plants will grow enough to fill up the space. When this provision has not been made beforehand, plants can be lifted from the garden and planted under the protection of the tent, or plants grown in pots or boxes can be placed under it. The date for covering the plants On Protecting Out-door Chrys- anthemums. CONTRIBUTED BY TItE LATE PETER HENDERSON, A PEW WEEKS BEFORE HIS DEATH AND NOT BEFORE PUBLISHED. A cheap and simple plan now ex- tensively used to protect Chrysanthe- mums from the slight frosts that we usually have in the north— which in different sections come from the 2Uth of October to the 20th of Novem- ber— is to use the greenhouse protect- ing cloth in the form of a tent, as shown by the cut. This tent may be (if 10 feet in width) four feet high at the front and seven feet high at the apex; or if '20 feet wide, four feet high at the front and lo to U feet high at the apex ; if 10 feet wide, the walk ( two feet in width) should be in the centre, as shown in " End Elevation ; " if 20 feet, there should be two walks (each two feet wide), which would leave the front beds four feet wide and the centre bed eight feet. The tent may be of any length desired, and if necessary may be heated by an or- dinary self-feeding coal stove, or an oil stove as desired, but in most sections, the cover- ing of the protecting cloth would be suffi- cient to keep out frost. This cloth can be bought of the best heavy grade at ten cents per yard in lots of .50 yards and upw.ards, so that for a Chrysanthemum tent 20 feet wide by 2.5 feet long, the cost tor the protecting cloth would not exceed -^10.00 and the wood framework to support it, say *l.5.00, so that for *2.5.00 you can have a protection for Chrysanthemums just as effective as a greenhouse costing ten times as much. The cloth is simply nailed tight on the framework, 'as there is no need of providing for ventilation as in a greenhouse. The ratio of cost will be about the same whether the tent is 12 or 20 feet wide, small or large. These tents are now largely used by florists but only to protect tender plants in spring, EMO ELEVATION ±. Protection for Out-door Chrysanthemums. by the tent in this section is usually abotit the first week of October — or before there is any chance of even slight frosts. Some Facts About Russian Apples. PROF. J. L. BUDD, IOWA AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE. In looking over the October number I notice some statements relative to Russian Apples which are suggestive. Hardy Fruit Buds and Blossoms. On the first page is the sentence: "Reports from Ontario, Canada, indicate a poor crop, with the exception of Russian varieties like Duchess, Alexander, etc." In this vicinity Apples are so scarce that common fall vari- eties bring one dollar per bushel at the groceries. Yet in the Russian experimental orchard on the college farm dozens of vari- eties have been laden with large, smooth and handsome fruit. This orchard gave us fully 600 bushels last year and about .300 this year, but the shortage this year came from the fact that the extreme drought of the past three years prevented varieties heavily laden last year from fruiting this season. Even the Duchess trees that were full in 1889 did not show a specimen in 1890. This is stated in confirmation of the fact, that the best Rus- sian Apples, Pears, Cherries and Plums, are hardier in fruit buds and blossoms than the west European fruits or their American seedlings. On page 1.3 Prof. Goff makes some statements in regard toRussianApples which may probably be extended. 24 POPULAR GARDENING. November, Liable to Blight. He correctly states: "Many Russian varieties that resist cold suffer severely by blight in summer." This is founded on Wisconsin experience with the earlier varieties imported from St. Peters- burg. Yet of these it may be said that many blight as seriously as the Siberian Crabs, and many others in the most unfavorable positions blight as little as Duchess or any one of the so- called American Apples. Grounds in Iowa where the Yellow Transparent cannot be profit- ably grown on account of its tendency to blight, we have bearing trees of over 70 varieties from St. Peters- burgh that blight as little as the Duchess, and some that have as yet never shown a trace of the disease. Again, the var- ieties from the Volga Provin- ces, as a rule, are less subject to blight than any of the west Eu- ropean sorts or their American seedlings. Not of High Quality. Prof. Goff says: " Few of them are of high quality." On this point Dr. Hoskins wrote to-day, " You and I know better." The Russians grow many varieties of large smooth acid Apples ex- clusively for culinary use. Among the var- ieties classed by Schroder for dessert use are many for all seasons which Downing would have classed as "very good," and a few which he would have called " best." Few of Them Will Keep. The sentence reads, " Few of them are of high quality, and most ripen early in the season and keep poorly during winter." This is specially true of all the varieties coming from a point as far north as St. Petersburg or Moscow. Yet among these are quite a large number of really good keepers on the north limit of their possible growth, which will prove of untold value to the cold north where a home- grown winter Apple is now hardly known. Our list from Moscow only represents the varieties grown in north Russia in part. Dr.Schroder collected many varieties for our use from points in the southeast where Dent Corn ripens as perfectly as in Central Iowa. These varieties, as well as those we imported later from Bogdanoff, Orel, Voronesh and the lower Volga region, ripen with us in Central Iowa about as they did in their natal home, as noted in our Imlletin of 1890. Last winter we were able to show many these on the 3.5th of Jan. in as perfect con- dition as Ben Davis, Willow or Baldwin. Experimental Work. I write this to impress the thought that as yet it is experi- mental work. Our work has been to sift the great list and sort out by actual trial across the continent on our northern bord- ers, the relatively few sorts coming nearest to our ideal of hardiness of tree, productive- ness and quality of fruit for all seasons. The recent remarkably trying seasons at the west have favored the work. In twelve years we have been able to reach conclusions by comparisons of reports from our many trial stations, which in ordinary seasons could not have been reached in a life time. Hence the positive statement at this time. Notes from the Popular Gardening Grounds at La Salle-on-the- Niagara. The Lima Beans. Our last year's trellis has a^ain done good service for our pole varieties. Among these we have the Large Had and the Speckled Limas, both thrifty growers and relia- ble Beans. People who do not object to the color, wiU find them excellent for home use, as they Pig. 1, (Upper). The Common Pole Lima Bean, sketched life-size, on the Popular Oardening Grounds. Fig. 3, [Lower). Burpee's Bush Lima, as sketched, somewhat reduced, on the Popular Oardening Grounds have a peculiar richness of their own. The New Evergreen differs only slightly from the common older sorts. The Potato Lima is quite distinct, having small pods, but a great profusion of them, and these well-filled with medium-sized Beans of good quality. The New Jersey Extra Early has again proved good and reliable. One row ot the latter was tried without sup- port, in the way suggested by a report coming from Prof. Budd. The plants in this row were given no chance to make runners, the tops being mown or clipped off a number of times. This treatment forced out strong lateral growth from the stalks at the first joint, six or eight inches from the ground, and produced plants having somewhat the habit of growth of Burpee's Lima. There is no doubt in our mind that a continua- tion ot such treatment would in a very few years result in the fixation of the bush form. We do not now wonder that bush forms of the different Lima types have appeared, we only wonder that they have not been brought out before. On the whole, our experience with all varieties of the Lima indicate that they require very rich soil to do their best. Paying crops, such as alone are satisfactory, cannot be grown on thin soil, and people should not make the attempt to thus grow them. With plenty of good compost, how- ever—yes, very plenty of it, our clay loam is well adapted to the production of the crop, and we doubt that Liraas could do better on soils of sandy character. The Bush Limas. There has nothing been of greater interest in our vegetable garden this year than these. The good points in Henderson's Bush Lima we did not appreciate until this season, and we can hardly speak too highly of it. The bush-habit is so thoroughly fixed that we have not yet seen a single attempt at returning to the running habit in any plant. The growth is vigorous and strong; pods are produced in immense numbers, and continuously until the end of season. As they grow in clusters, picking is quite easy and (luick work. Of course the Beans are small, but they come considerably earlier than the other Limas, and the crop is easily grown. In quality we think there is noth- ing that can surpass this variety, and there is a richness and delicacy about them hardly met in any other Bean. Wc have gathered plenty of seed, and shall plant freely of it another season. The majority of the pods have three Beans, a few only two, and quite a number have four. Burpee's Bush Lima is the novelty of the season, as Henderson's was of last season. It makes a magnificent plant, with strong stem and perfect bush form. The Beans are large, not differing inform orsize from the old Large Lima. Usually there are only three in a pod, sometimes only two, seldom four. The variety Is a little late, and this seems to be its only fault. Of course the seed has been carefully saved, and will be planted next year. It will be some time —probably not until 1892— that people will have a chance of testing the table qualities of this Bean more gener- ally. At present prices of seed, a hungry person might easily eat ten or twenty dollars' worth at one meal. The Kumerle is not so upright in growth, and some- what inclined to re- vert to the old run- ning habit. It is also very late, we think still later than Bur- pee's. In pod and seed the variety does not differ from the old excellent Dreer's Lima, and in all probability it is as good in quality, although we can- not vouch for it, as we did not have enough for a thor- ough test. As with the other two bush sorts, three is the usual number of seeds found in one pod, but four are more frequently met with, perhaps, than in Burpee's. We shall plant every seed we have next year. Henderson's Lima is just the sort to be planted where the ordinary Limas are a trifle too late; and all three varieties will be welcomed by the general grower everywhere, who does not wish to go to the trouble or expense of getting and setting poles, or putting up trellises. The illustrations on Ipages 24 and 35 were in- tended to be life-size, but the engraver has slighly reduced Burpee's Lima Bean as compared with the ordinary large Lima. At the samestage of ripeness we have not been able to discover any difference between the two, so far as size of pod and Bean is concerned. The illustration on page 28 shows pods and Beans of the three varie- ties as sketched on our grounds, reduced to one- half in size. The Lettuce Patch. There are so many really good varieties of Lettuce, we would hardly know which to select as best if we were confined to one, two or three sorts. For forcing. Tennis Ball, and its sub- variety, Boston Market, are yet Fig. . lUustrating a Shnib bed nn <}ardeninu Grounds. Poindor in the lead. Grand Uapids, favorably men- tioned by Michigan and Ohio people, we have not tried, much to our regret. Salamander, the old stand-by ot the market gardener, does not show to best advantage among all these excellent sorts, and we would not select it as best for home use; but it is yet reliable, and good enough, especially for market, althougn it was one of the first in the lot to go to seed. Drumhead or Malta, one of the largest, forms good heads, and has especially large, somewhat coarse-appearing leaves. Goes to seed early. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 25 Large India is handsome, tender, slightly curled. Leaves edged with brownish red. Good and reliable, going to seed soon after Drumhead. Brown iMteh has large, brownish, somewhat coarse-appearing leaves, yet is tender and good. Marblehcad Mammoth closely resembles large India. California Butter resembls Brown Dutch in form of leaf and general habit of growth, but leaves are of dark green color. Improved Hanson is similar to Hanson; makes a good head. Foliage slightly more curled. Ten- der and good. Early Prizehead forms a large head. Foliage curled, reddish-brown. A fine variety. Philadelphia Butter is an early header ol smallish size, and goes to seed even earlier than Salamander. Stubborn Seeder and Defiance Summer closely resemble each other, and make a rather loose head of medium size. Plants show little or no inclination to go to seed. Longstamler Bronze-head is very handsome, with its reddish-brown,somewhat curly leaves and large loose heads. Slow to go to seed. California All Heart is a large curled variety with somewhat loose heads and yellowish green, immense leaves. It is very good, one of the very best for later use. Early Ohio Cabbage resembles the preced- ing in every way. Beckerfs Golden Curled is also of this type, perhaps less curly. Buttercup again is the handsomest and most delicate in the lot. Leaves golden yel- low, tender; making a most beautiful, small- ish, fairly solid head. It is not the variety for quantity. Midsummer is of bronze color, and some- what like Longstander Bronze-head. Like this, it has little inclination to go to seed. Blonde Beauty is a large curly variety of the Improved Hanson tyije, forming very large solid heads. One of the most desirable in the lot. Child's Half Century. In all Lettuce kind we have never seen a variety that would give us the solid heads that this does. It is more like a Cabbage in this respect than like a Lettuce. We shall plant it again. Gold Nugget is of same type as Defiance Summer. From our selection for next season we would certainly not omit the following: For forcing and early use, Boston Market and Grand Rapids; for late. Early Ohio Cabbage (CaUfomia .411 Heart), Blonde Beauty and Child's Half Century, and for beauty, Butter- cup. Lettuce to be of best quality, sweet and brittle should be grown quickly. We have never found a better mode of culture for general use than to sow thinly in rows a foot or more apart, in well prepared and well- enriched soil, and gradually thin to eight or ten inches in the row. Good cultivation by wheel hoe, supplemented by hand hoe where necessary, and occasional applications of nitrate of soda will gi veLettuce in abundance, and of best quality. Repeated sowings should be made for succession, and people Q who like a few messess in late fall or early winter, may sow late in summer, and take protecting their tender garden subjects through the first fall frosts in order that they may enjoy their beauty through the mild period which usually follows. The wisdom of such a course has been remarkably confirmed on our grounds this year. Beginning with September 2.5th we had several frosts, but were prepared for them by having nearly all tender ornamental plants covered. Following the frosty spell there was warmer weather, which caused additional growth in all tender stuff that was not frost- bitten, with the result of making our grounds more attractive throughout the present month (Octoberi th an they had been at any earlier time VEGETABLES SMALL FRUITS trope. Verbenas, Coleus, Dahlias, Gladiolus, Mountain Fleece, Anthemis tinctoria, Daphn^ Pink, Wa.vberries, Berberries, Thorns, Blood- leaved Plum, variegated- lea ved Dogwoods. At that date the foliage of numerous trees and shrubs was beginning to change. Thunberg's Spiraea was taking on a golden and crimson hue, while the Plum-leaved Spinea showed a brilliant deep red in much of its foliage, and the Reeve's Spiraja a peculiar blueish-red hue. The various Dogwoods, the Virginian Creeper and Red Oaks were showing the first touches of Autumn's crimson pencil, while Sassafras, Ash, Calycan- thus and Wild Ferns were assuming golden tints. Contrasting with these early autumn colors were the deep green of the Privets and Willows, not to say the lawn, all of which serve to heighten the other effects. Shritb Bedding. We have before alluded to numerous examples of bedding hardy shrubs effectually on our grounds. Figure 5 shows one of the smaller beds of this kind, such as would from its extent be suitable for introducing into grounds of almost any size. The occupants in this case are as follows: Five Golden Bell (Forsythia viridinnmai in- dicated respectively by F; nine Variegated- leaved Weigelias, shown by W; seven Pani- cled-flowered Hydrangea, H in engraving; seven Mezeron Pink, shown by D; one Straw- berry bush (Euonymu)s\ shown by E. The selection is capable of affording bloom almost continuously from the time of the Mezeron Pink in April to the end of the Hydrangea season in October, while the fruit of the Strawberry Bush gives attraction to the bed in late autumn. The foliage of the bed is also pleasingly varied from the light-colored leaves of the Variegated Weigelia to the in- tensely dark foliage of the Golden Bell. Be- tween the shrubs at the edge of the bed are scattered Hyacinths, Verbenas and other dowering plants. VEGETABLE GARDEN SMALL FRUITS 5 i^ Taste and Tact in arranging Grounds. The upper plan ,, , , J , ^ . i ,. , "f <^ garden is unmtisfactory; the lower shows how the the well-developed plants up just before same garden might better be arranged. cold weather; crowding them together in boxes, roots covered with soil, to be kept in cellar near the window. The Giant Daisy; Pyrethrum Uuginositm. This recent plant has been one of the most at- tractive subjects in our hardy border during the latter part of September and early (Jctober. The engraving, page 30, shows the bloom at two-thirds the natural size, and gives a very good idea of its attractive character. The color is pure white with yellow center. The blooms borne on strong stems three to five feet high, present an appear- ance of picturesque ruggedness, which is very attractive. The plant is of strong growth evi- dently, for ours has sprung up from a small root imported from England last March. There has Xteeo no chance to test its hardiness here, but inasmuch as it is classed among hardy subjects in numerous catalogues, we inter, as we other- wise should from the appearance of the plant, that it is perfectly hardy. Still we shall take the precaution to protect our single plant before winter, deferring tests of hardiness until after more plants are secured. October Attractiveness. Foryearswehave advised amateurs to be at considerable pains in this season. While now we enjoy flowers and handsome foliage in abundance, had it not been for the precaution of careful covering, the scen- ery would be marred by black or vacant spots. All in all, the American October is one of the most enjoyable of months in the garden. It is a kind of second spring-time. By this date the grass and many other growths that had received a check by summer drouth, have taken in new beauty, second only to the freshness of May and June. Then come the autumn tints in a de- gree of splendor unequalled by even the flowers of spring-time. But the season is also not devoid of flowers. Walking through our grounds October 8th, we noticed the following features of striking attractiveness: The clumps of Japan Anemones, white, rose and purple, presenting a show of beauty unequalled by any other flowers the season thorough. The hardy and annual Sun- flowers in numerous varieties, the hardy and other Asters. Coreopsis lanceolata, Rudbeckia Newmanii, Giant Daisy, the panicled Hydrangea, Hybrid Perpetual and Monthly Roses, Petunias, Mignonette,Zinnias, Marigold, Geraniums, Hello- Taste and Tact In Arranging Grounds. 1st Paper. The present is the first of a series of illustrated articles to appear in Popu- lar Gardening on the subject of the heading. It is designed to render these above articles widely useful through imparting ideas, on arranging home and other grounds with taste and discern- ment, basing the same on actual ex- amples. The directions and illustrations are to be of the most simple and prac- tical character, and such as it is be- lieved there is a large and growing de- mand for in the present day. The plan is to invite, and we hereby do cordially invite, sketches of home plats, rural cemeteries, town squaresi etc., from our readers, with a view to our furnishing through these columns, island without charge, designs and sugges- tions for improving such grounds to be more attractive in garden beauty. That there is great room for improvements in such a line is widely conceded. As a people we are only beginning to waken up to the possibilities of the gar- den art in embellishing home and public grounds everywhere. To render this project as profitable as possible to all readers, we desire not only to make use of such sketches sent to us, for getting up engravings showing the lo- cation of the objects on the grounds, but along with such respectivly the new plans embodying the improvements it occurs to us to suggest. That this may be all clearly tm- derstood we herewith present the plans which are to serve as the initial ones in this series. A subscriber in Allegan Co., Mich, whose name and post office is witheld (as we shall always do in these articles), sends to us a sketch from which the upper engraving anne-xed was made, with the following letter. Sept. 9, 1890. Dear Sir;— Being a subscriber to Popular Gardening and taking a very great interest in the beautifying of homes, I herewith send you 26 POPULAR GARDENING. November, a sketch of our home and grounds, asking you the favor of suggesting improvements in the lawn arrangement, as the features are not ex- actly to my taste. T intend setting out some shrubs and evergreens next spring, also laying- out larger beds of Tulips,Hyacinths,Tea Roses etc. We have already decided if necessary to move the office (a physician's) as it obstructs the view to and from the road . In accordance with the purpose of these papers therefore, and in answer to this sub- scriber's request we present the plan re- ceived and under it another containing cer- tain added improvements The numbers in the upper cut represent the following : 1, a bed cut in lawn, occupied ^vith Tulips and later with Dahlias, Gladioltis etc.; 2, bed of Hyacinths ; 3, bed of Day Lilies ; 4, bed of Coleus ; .5, bed of Tea Roses. Various trees and shrubs besides, are scattered over the ground as shown. The figures in the lower plan may be explained as follows : 1 front entrance, 2 side and oflBce entrance, 3, 3, 3, beds of irregular outline tobeplant- ed with shrubs, and hardy, tender plants, bulbs, etc.; 4 an arbor to be covered with hardy and tender vines ; .5, a shrubbery walk in the midst of irregular masses of hardy shrubs, and surrounding the arbor and leading from the la*n to the small- fruit plat; 6, fruit trees irregularly ar- ranged in the rear lawn ; 7, 8, vistas ex- tending from the house towards the street; numerous trees and shrubs abound. Some evergreens are located both to the front and rear of the office. Now briefly for the lesson : That which will impress the reader in comparing the two sketches, is the angularity and lack of general method and harmony in arrange- ment of the features of the upper one. A garden of any size to be most pleasing should, especially in the growths, present a degree of naturalness approximating the pleasing arrangement of trees, shrubs, etc., to be met in natural landscapes. It has well been said that nature abhors straight lines. But usually in starting out to make a pleasing home garden we meet with a num- ber of lines and angles in the outlines of buildings, the boundaries of the place the streets etc. Shall we therefore add more straight lines by introducing such promi- nently into walks, tree rows, outlines of beds etc ? The aim should be the reverse of this for all such features as will admit of variations from straight lines, angles and geometrical figures. Usually the walks, drives, trees, plants etc., very readily har- monize with this principle. The lower plan shows how we should prefer the improvments. Here simplicity, harmony of parts, graceful curves and Ir- regularity are the order— with what gains for garden beauty let the reader judge. Not only do the objects seem to lit the places well and serve to the making of a harmo- nious whole but the grounds appear to be larger, without this really being true, a result of the tine open centers in the grass plats and the delightful vistas that extend from point to point. While the walks present bold curves, it will be observed that they lead very directly from the street to the buildings. Let the reader in imagination pass over the one plan and then the other as if ex- amining the various features, and he cannot but be impressed by the superior arrange- ment of the lower one, this simply because better principles areabserved inthearrang- ment. Even the fruit trees at fl and the front street trees are located with the idea of keeping down straight lines and regular distances apart. Jn having thus complied with our sub- scriber's request for assistance, it is pos- sible that more shrubs and trees have been suggested than can at once be planted and cared for. In that event it is only neccesary to carry out the improvements step by step constantly having in view the completed whole. To others who may favor us with sketches of grounds to be improved, we would say that such plans even if made crudely will answer our ends very well. Of course if pains are taken to locate the buildings, trees and other objects by scale, the result may be slightly more satisfactory. We will be pleased to consider the arrangement of the fruit and vegetable garden of home grounds as well as the ornamental parts, although it may be said that the former are Fin. 3. Fig. i. The Eumerlc Biush Lima. Henderson's Bitsh Lima. As sketched, life-size, on Pop. Gmd. Chvunds I less difficult as here straight lines should largely prevail. Why Not Grow More Currants? ] The possibilities of Currant culture, as often as they may have been referred to by the horticultural press, are not generally recognized and appreciated by fruit growers. The Currant takes the same place among fruits that the mule occupies among draught animals— being modest in its demands as to feed, shelter, care, yet doing good service. Clay soils, too tenacious, too rough, too moist for most other fruits, will suit the Currant. The winters' cold does'not freeze it ; late spring frosts do not kill its blossoms. Year after year it bears its crop, and this keeps well, ships well, and sells well. Where there are so many acres of land just suited for this fruit, and hardly for any other, and in consideration of all the advan- tages this fruit offers, it appears rather strange that it is not more largely culti- vated. The Currant worm, about the only enemy which the crop has, can be kept in check so easily by spraying with a solution of white Hellebore, that it should no longer be feared as an obstacle to success. We do not wish to be understood as ad- vocating poor soil and slovenly culture for the Currant. Liberal feeding, and good cultivation will pay with this crop as well as with any other. Our plants, set only in spring of last year, were given a shovelful or two of good compost to the hill, and the soil, a strong clay loam, was kept well tilled. The crop on these young plants, this year, was quite satisfactory, and a full crop may be expected next year. A Currant grower in Steuben county, this state, Mr. Franz S. Wolf, writes us of the enormous crops which a neighbor gets every year on a plantation of Currants trained to two or three stalks per plant. The advan- tages claimed for this form are (1) large fruit and large crops : (2) ease of keeping the patch clean ; no clumps of sod over the roots ; (3) easy control over the worms. The young larvae must have young foliage. As there are no suckers allowed to grow, the young leaves are found only at the top ends of the branches, where the worms can be readily discovered and poisoned. In a later letter to us, Mr. Wolf speaks of his own crop as follows : "In 1886 I set 1000 Versailles and 100 Fays. The past two seasons high water has made it impossible to plow, cultivate or hoe, and has washed the bushes and soil away so that I have less than one-fourth of an acre, and the crop this year was nearly a failure. The following statement covers the sales this season : July 3, 25 baskets, 106 pounds at 7c. $7.42 " 8, 78 " @ 4 •' " 30c. 23.40 " 9, 30 " @ 4 " " 30c. 9.00 " 11,31 " @4 " " 30c. 9..30 " 11, 4 " @ 8 " " 80c. 3.20 Commission and express. 32 baskets used, $52.32 $10.54 J41.78 $7.68 Total, S49.46 The expense for baskets, picking and putting on cars amounted to$21..S4, so that the net profits from the one-fourth of an acre, and with a very poor crop, reached the sum of $38.12, or $112.48 per acre. There were no other expenses than those stated, inasmuch as the high water prevented all work, and I think drowned the worms. Prices were good this year, considering the quality. The bill for picking was ex- cessive, as the bunches wer every poor, and made picking quite laborious. To show the importance of shipping in just such packages as the trade calls for, I will call attention to the difference which it would have made, had eight pound baskets been used. I was away at the time, and the notification from commission men to change size was opened only when too late. I shipped 164 four pound baskets and four eight pound baskets to New York. These if packed in eight pound baskets would have made 86 baskets at 80 cents— .*68 ; 16 baskets used, §10.40— total *i79.20: expenses SRl..i6; net profit, .*4T.64, or -?190..56 per acre. Thus the change in price of a few cents per basket almost doubles the net returns, all charges save commission goes to profit. This season's e.xperience makes me doubt the advantage of single-stem pruning ex- cept with most careful attention. I have now one and one quarter acre of Currants in tree form, and two acres in bush form. Treating the Plum Curcullo with Poison. The greatest enemy to the Plum is the insect commonly known as the Plum cur- culio. This is the cause of the wormy fruit that so often falls from the trees. Various remedies have been tried for this pest, and for several years trials have been made at the Ohio Experiment Station of the method of killing the insects by spraying with a very diluted mixture of Paris green and water. The experiments were again repeated this season by the station entomologist. Dr. C. M. Weed, with good results. An orchard of 900 bearing trees in Ottawa county, Ohio, right in the heart of a great fruit growing region, was selected for the experiment. In the north half of it the method of catching the curculiosby jarring on a sort of inverted umbrella mounted on wheels was employed, while the south half was sprayed four times with pure Paris green mixed with water, in the proportion of four ounces to 50 gallons of water. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. The first application was made May 8th, just after the blossoms had fallen from the late blooming varieties. There was a heavy rain the same night, and it rained almost continuously until May 15th, when there was a short cessation. The second spraying was done on that day. The third spraying was made May ajth, and the fourth and last, June Sd. On the jarred portion of the orchard a great many curculios were caught, showing that they were present in great numbers. A careful examination of both parts of the • orchard was made on June 3. Between one and two per cent of the fruit on the sprayed trees had been stung, while about three per cent of the Plums on the jarred trees were injured. No damage to the trees was then perceptible. Early in July the orchard was again ex- amined. Some of the sprayed trees showed that foliage had been damaged by the spray- ing, but the injury was not very serious. Not over three per cent of sprayed fruit was stung at that time, while about four per cent of that on the jarred trees was injured. But on both the fruit was so thick that artificial thinning was necessary to prevent overbearing. A large crop of fruit was ripened on both parts of the orchard, and so far as could be judged from the experiment, the practical bility of preventing the injuries of the Plum curculio by spraying was demonstrated. This progress is very much less laborious and costly than jarring, aud if future expe- rience is as successful as this season's work, Plum growing will become much easier. Some Good Points on Cider Making. In the Cider Makers' Hand Book, recently published, the following methods for secur- ing a superior article are described: I. Harvesting the Apples by means of harvesting blankets, to avoid injury and fllth. 3. Piling on boards, rails, stalks or straw to avoid earthly flavor. 8. Sweating to last degree of ripeness, to augment saccharines and diminish water. 4. Testing fruit before mixing, as to sac- charines and acidity, in order to avoid worthless fruits, and to blend valuable ones more intelligently. .5. Mixing varieties, by results of tests, to exalt and heighten quality. ti. Milling in mill free from taint and pressing through press-cloths. 7. Heating juice to augment saccharines, and incidentally to promote clarifying. 8. Filtration through charcoal, to cleanse and remove mucilaginous and other im- purities. 9. Strengthening juice with sugar to standard strength, to produce requisite alcohol necessary to insure permanency. 10. Fermentation, with skimming or with purging, and in even temperature, to com- plete dryness. II. Check of fermentation at dryness by cooling. 13. Filtration through fiber while cool, to remove waste products of fermentation. 13. Pasteurization to destroy ferment re- maining. 14. Developing by heat to advance ripen- ing. 1.5. Ripening with semi-weekly inspection and refilling. 16. Transfer to protected wood or glass. The process described is one of steady purification and refinement. Everything which nature rejects, or which impairs keeping power, is removed from the juice at the outset, and all the efforts of nature in making the change from juice to cider are aided and promoted. The deficiencies of unfavorable seasons are amended by addition of small though suffic- ient quantities of saccharines, and the juice is brought to a standard, so that dependence can be placed upon the quality and dura- bility one year as well as another. By all these the uncertainties attending the old method are well nigh extinguished. The process, besides, has been .shortened in point of time, for though the manipulations are more numerous, they call for very little labor, and can succeed each other rapidly. AU the period of waiting for settling or clarifying used in the old process areavoided. Bean Rust and Other Fungous Dis- eases. WM. H. YEOMANS, TALLAND CO., CONN. Gardeners are beset upon all sides by de- structive agencies. With the climatic con- ditions, noxious insects and fungus diseases, theirs,is a life of watchfulness and aggressive warfare. It seems there is almost no crop that the farmer attempts to produce but that is liable to attack from some source, and the number of destructive diseases and insects is rapidly increasing, or else the sharp eye of scientific investigators is ex- posing those that have already existed. In every farmer's family the garden is looked upon as an important help in fur- nishing during its season supplies for the table, and such it is unless its products are blasted and destroyed by foes. Some varie- ties of vegetable growth have been fairly exempted from detructive attacks up to a comparatively receat period. This is the case with pole Beans, that have of late years been cultivated to a considerable extent as market crop; but ithey seem to have now come under the curse. First came the Bean weevil that injured early-planted Beans; but still more destructive seems to be a fungus that attacks the foliage, soon destroying it, and seeming to sap the whole life from the plant. It first makes its appearance in small spots upon the leaves, which rapidly increase until the leaf becomes dead. This is liable to extend to the pods, but even if it does not, it so affects the plant that the pods will shrivel and dry up, leaving the Bean at the ;point of development, attained at the time of the attack. The leaves have a dark brown and rusty appearance, and when the disease gets a bold of them, they look somewhat as though they had been scorched by heat. It remains for scientific investigation to discover safe preventives of the disease. If their spores retain their vitality after the fall of the leaves, and can reproduce themselves after winter, it woirld seem that unless something is done by way of preven- tive measures, but little time will elapse before it will almost be an impossibility to grow this much-valued product of the garden. The Ontario (Canada) Fruit Growers' Catalogue of Fruits. The Ontario Fruit Growers' Association has for some time been engaged in preparing a list of fruits for the purpose of securing greater uniformity and fairness in judging fruits at exhibitions. The catalogue of Apples has just been published, and a copy is before us. Each variety is given its proper place in a scale of from 0 to 10 m regard to these four points, viz.: dessert quality, cooking quality, value for home market and value for foreign market. We were present during the discussions of the society at which a large number of these varieties received their final standing in the list, and we had opportunity to observe the difficulties in the way of a satisfactory arrangement of such a list. Different growers are often wide apart in opinions con- cerning even the common, best -known sorts. The catalogue, professedly, is not intended to be a guide for planters. Yet as the stand- ing of each variety, as found in it, is a true expression of the opinion of the majority of Ontario fruit growers concerning its merits in the four respects mentioned, we fail to see why the list should not be a help in the selection of varieties, especially to home growers. Local conditions, of course, have to be taken into consideration. It would not do to plant even the best Apple in a loca- tion where it is not likely to succeed. At any rate it will be interesting to see what varieties our neighbors across the line con- sider best in quality, and best for market. ; The highest standing (10) as to dessert quality, is given to Beuoni and Trenton among the summer Apples, and to Pomme Gris d'Or, Princess Louise and Ribston Pippin among the winter sorts. The next best, those with 9 points, are Early Harvest for summer; Cox's Orange Pippin, Fa- meuse or Snow, Prengea and Gravenstein for autumn; American Golden Russet, Esopus Spitzenberg, Newtown Pippin for winter. Northern Spy has but 8 points. At the head of cooking Apples, with 10 points, stands Oldenburgh for summer, and Tompkins King, Northern Spy, Ontario and Rhode Island Greening for winter. Best for home market (10 points) are Oldenburgh, Gravenstein, King, La Rue (winter). North- ern Spy and Ontario, and best for foreign market, Alexander (autumn), Blenheim Pippin (winter). Cox's Orange Pippin, Oldenburgh, Esopus Spitzenberg, Graven- stein, King, Northern Spy, Newtown Pippin, Ontario, Ribston Pippin. Ben Davis, the celebrated winter' Apple for profit in Ontario as well as in many sections of the United States, is rated as follows: O for dessert, 1 for cooking, 8 for home market and 9 for foreign market. Such rating ought to condemn any fruit; and while it may be profitable for a while, con- scientious growers should cease to plant it. It is not worth cultivating. In consideration of the high recommend given by many of our pomological authori- ties to the Yellow Transparent, and the great returns reported to have been obtained in some instances, we wonder that this Apple is not given a better standing than 6 for dessert, 7 for cooking, 6 for home market, and 0 for foreign market. If the reason be, that such fruit has not yet been sufficiently tested for deciding on its final standing, the spaces should be left blank. A '• prelimin- ary " rating can only be misleading. Judge Miller's Fruit Notes. Cherry Stocks. We must depend for our choice Cherries upon three different stocks. For a long time the Mazzard, brought here from Europe, was the only stock used for the improved varieties, as the Morello class were too short-lived. Then came the Mahaleb, which at first was claimed to make dwarf trees, and which it does to some extent. Here the common black Morello is sometimes used, but with what success is just what I want to learn, as it is a hardy, pretty, long-lived tree. The Mazzard would be my choice were it not for its suckering, which objection also holds good against the Morello. Here I have grown our best kinds on both Mazzard and Mahaleb, but the few tried on Morello are short-lived. Those on Mazzard were nearly all gone also, while those on Mahaleb still hold out, although many have gone down, not the root's fault however, but from extreme cold winters and hot dry summers. To attempt to grow any of the choice var- ieties on trees with heads six feet from the ground as we used to do in the east, would end in complete failure. Of about 50 trees planted some '20 years ago, there now re- main about 10, and these are in a declining condition, all on Mahaleb. These are in- variably so low-headed that one might almost say they start at the ground. Most 28 POPULAR GARDENING. November, conspicuous among them is a Napoleon that spreads out at but one foot from the ground. It is over one foot in diameter at the base, about 25 feet high, and not less that 30 feet in diameter in spread of branches. This tree has for several years yielded as much fruit as all the others put together, and the fruit commands a fancy price. For three years we have averaged from this tree $12 net per year for fruit. An acre of such trees ("2 trees) would net about -*800. While Napoleon Bigarreau is one of the best and most profitable, it must be borne in mind that it, like all the hard fleshed varieties, may he in excellent condition one day, and spoiled for market by a rain and hot sultry weather the next. The splendid crop of Mazzards this year on some trees on a hill 500 feet above the river, induces me to think them worth growing. The Cherries are from a pale red to the darkest hue, some even jet-black, and continuing for six weeks in their ripening; some are small, others quite a fair size, and in quality not to be despised. When a boy I knew of Mazzard trees in the east three feet in diameter at the ground, 60 feet high, and bearing loads and loads of fruit in one season. Once after a hail storm, the stones of which were about the size of the Cherries, I saw the ground covered an inch deep, the white hail and the black Cherries well mixed. It was a pretty but somewhat sad sight. Mazzard seedlings will not sucker if the roots are not multilated, but the plow must not cut them, or a bed of suckers will surely follow. Peach ox Plum and Vice Versa. To work Peach on Plum has only recently become practicable. If the Marianna Plum be budded low down with some strong growing native, the Peach can then be budded on this with good chances of success. Some will ask why not bud the Peach on Marianna, one of the strongest growers? Simply on account of the thin bark of the Marianna, and because there is not sufficient affinity between the two. We know that some Pears will not do on the Quince, while if double-rooted they do well Plum on Peach, as a rule, may not work satisfactorily, but with some varieties it does nobly. The wild Goose for one will take readily, and if planted deep will in a few years be on its own foundation. I have Wild Goose trees that I budded on Peach myself when small, and set out when three years old and over an inch in diameter. Where they were planted the washings of a road and field soon added some inches of soil. Now the Wild Goose suckers are com- ing up all around. These would be set out in orchards if I deemed thefruitof sufficient value, but I do not, as they rot here by the bushel when ripe. The boating, express charges and commission .I'ust about cover the price they bring. In an orchard on a hill in clay soil, I have Golden Beauty Plum trees that I grew from root grafts, that are now sending up suckers of both the original and Golden Beauty, mixed all around under the trees, showing that the latter sent out roots from the graft. Many years ago I purchased a lot of Prince's Imperial Gage Plums that were worked on Peach stocks, planted them pretty deep. They grew well, and soon became fine large trees. Fruit was what I wanted, but never got it ripe, the curculio being master of the situation. They were grubbed out, and on close examination I could not find a vestige of the original Peach stock; it had vanished altogether. I do not consider myself competent to tell what varieties will do on Peach, but there may be others who have tried it. There is no real occasion for it except KUMERLE. HENDERSON'S. BURPEE'S. THREE DWARF LIMA BEANS, SHOWING CERTAIN CHARACTERISTICS. See page 24. when, as sometimes happens, we are short of Plum stocks and have the Peach. I have here some twenty varieties of Plums, and if spared until next spring shall try the spray- ing process for curculio. Among all that have fruited, with me De Soto, Louisa and Deep Creek are the best in quality. As fine a native as I have seen for a long time, has been found some six miles from here that will be worth growing. It bears every year, is nearly curculio-proof. Nearly as large as Wild Goose, sweet as honey; tough skin; would ship well. As it is en- tirely unknown out of its original place, I have taken the liberty of naming it after the nice girl that brought it to my notice, "Eldora." It is a very handsome tree, en- tirely thornless and a strong grower. I do not intend making a boom of it, nor a specu- lation, hence those who wish to try it can have grafts by applying in the proper way, that is stamps to cover postage and putting up for mailing. Its color is a blood red; form slightly oval. A STRANGER. A year ago last spring a little tree made its appearance in my Grape cut- ting patch, that I supposed to be a seedling of the Blood-red Peach, which are showing themselves all around, and are being pulled up as weeds; but as I like to give everything a chance, it was left to grow. It made a good growth. We headed it back last spring, and the branches were this season well set with blossom buds. The foliage is not quite so dark as at first, but it is a complete puzzle. Not one to whom I have shown it can tell what it is, but all agree with me that it is a hybrid be- tween Peach and Plum, about as much like one as like the other. It has a weeping habit, and will at least be ornamental if not useful. Geo. Townsend's Strawberry Notes. The season with me in Dark county was late, but quite satisfactory. Bubach No. 5, Haverland, Eureka and Mrs. Cleveland have done so well that it is hard to tell which has done the best. In the following I will try to tell how the varieties of recent intro- duction came out: Bubach No. 5.— Plant vigorous, healthy, prolific, giving large berries of fair quali- ty and faii'ly firm. Haverland makes a vigorous and healthy plant, with large berries of fair quality, fairly firm; prolific. Jessie also has quite a large and vigorous plant, and large berries of best quality. Only moderately prolific. Bubach on one side and Mrs. Cleveland on the other, each gave nearly double the amount of fruit.— Warfield's No. 2. This has a small plant, but is vigorous and prolific. Berries small to me- dium in size, rather sour. Can not see as much merit in this as others do. — Monmouth lacks vigor of plant and gave only half crop of fruit. Great American has done well, but I see no special merit in it. — Pearl. Fair growing plant, fruit large, good form and quality. Very promising. — Gaudy's Prize. Large and vigorous, plant fairly produc- tive; large berries of fair quality; late to commence to ripen; season short. Bubach No. 132, makes a good plant and fruited fairly well. Ber- ries of good quality but soft; will hardly become a standard. Cloud is a rampant grower with small, sour truit. Might do well on barren soil. Eureka, among the newest, stands fore- most as a profitable market sort. Very vigorous and healthy plant. Wonderfully prolific, very large berry, firm and of good quality, stand up well in shipping. A rival to Bubach. Mrs. Cleveland has a very ro- bust and healthy plant; large berries of excellent quality and prolific. A fine ama- teur berry. Lady Rusk, Stayman's No.], Great Pacific, Yale, Ladies' Pine, are grow- ing well, but made a poor show of fruit on spring-set plants. Crawford is somewhat slow to take hold of the soil, but makes a stocky plant, and gives large berries of best quality. Mitchel's Early is vigorous and a great runner, fruited well on spring-set plants; promising. Saunder's (Little's No. 10) is vigorous and healthy, plant good size; berries firm and of good quality. I think this may take the place of Wilson. Little's No. 4. is vigorous and fruitful; resembles Sharpless. Ohio Centennial is a very large and late berry; promising. Ifs In Fall Planting of Strawberries. It is by no means impossible to grow a fair lot of Strawberries on plants set in early autumn the spring following. Still there are many " ifs " connected with it. Prof. W. J. Green, horticulturist of the Ohio Experiment Station, gives a list of these ifs in a recent letter to the Ohio Far- mer. "Yes," he says, " plants set m August will bear the next summer if you use potted plants, and if the season is favorable for the growth of new plants, and if the weather is not so dry after planting as to kill the plants, and if the plants make a good growth this fall, and if the plants are not on top of the ground next spring; and finally if you know just how to go about it you may get a fair crop of berries next season from plants set iSgo. POPULAR GARDENING. 29 in August. With so many ifs in the way, a new beginner or careless worlier is likely to get tripped up on one of them . There are less ifs to stumble over in spring planting, and nearly all fruit growers take the course that has been found to have the least number of doubtful chances. The ob- jection to late spring planting is just the same as to fall planting, namely, the danger of dry weather, and consequent loss of plants. Like many other risky ventures, it is all right when it succeeds." Our neighbor Burdett, of Long John fame, who has u half century's experience as fruit grower, maintains that early spring planting gives better chances for securing a small crop of berries than can be found in fall planting, except when the best potted runners are used with skill and care. When the fruit stalks are forming during fall, the plants cannot be disturbed without check to the development of those fruit stalks, but they will bear moving and handling much better and with less danger to their frtiit, while yet dormant in early spring. Preparation for the Earliest Crops. For our earliest Cabbage, Lettuce and other outside crops we employ a method of fall preparation, which is not generally in use, we think, and which gives a start of more than a week in the spring over ordin- ary preparation. This is done by applying a heavy coat of manure in the fall (shown by the darkest part in the engraving below), and ridging the land with the plow. The ridge consists of a double furrow thrown up in regular order across the field, as indicated in the cross section illustration. Several advantages arise by this method. The soil is thoroughly exposed to the bene- fits of freezing in the winter, thus ensuring finer tilth the coming season; the larva of the May beetle and other insects are de- stroyed by freezing. In the spring the soil dries out sooner than in adjoining land that is not thus ridged. Immediately it is dry enough to level with the harrow, seeds can lie sown, for the manuring and plowing were done in the fall, and thus the crop is started a loug time ahead of what would have been possible on land tliat was only manured and plowed in the spring. The Proper Use of Wood Ashes. We have a pretty high opinion of the value of wood ashes, especially when these are derived from hard wood, and not de- teriorated or weakened by leaching. We have no better domestic source of the valu- able potash, of which a fair sample contains from 4 to 7 per cent. This is in the form of carbonate, very soluble, and the best for agricultural purposes. Ashes also contain m to 2>:< per cent of phosphoric acid, while lime constitutes the bulk. Still,wood ashes contain no nitrogen, and this lack probably is the cause that even , ^^ MANURE Preparation for the Earliest Crops. liberal applications of such ashes on the land often give so little returns. Recently we mentioned the experience of Mr. J. M. Smith (Wisconsin) as told by him before the American Horticultural Society, in Cleveland. Dr. T. H. Hoskins refers to this same thing in Rural New Yorker. Mr. Smith, he says, applied ashes success- fully to land long in cultivation, with other manure, and what seemed to him remarka- able results, especially in increasing the power of the soil to hold moisture. This is what will be always seen on such land. Biit let any man with a thin, light soil apply ashes, no matter how freely, and it is most probable that he will see no improvement in his crop, though he may be observing enough to note a better growth of Clover there in succeeding seasons. Upon a Potato crop treated with a light dressing of manure, ashes will often do marked good, and the same would be true upon a thin sod for Corn or Beans. In the first case, the manure gave a relative ex- cess of nitrogen, needing the potash and the phosphates of the ashes to make it available, while the Corn crop, needing but little nitrogen, would make prompt use of the constituents of the ashes. For young fruit trees, ashes supplying the non-volatile elements for making wood, are an excellent fertilizer, causing a free but firm growth. On bearing fruit trees, stable manure or some other complete fertilizer is called for, and without such a food supply the leafage will be pale and scanty, and the crop light and poor. With ashes alone, the surest way to bring up worn land of a light- ish nature is to grow Clover, for which ashes constitute a complete manure. The Clover will gather in a large supply of nitrogen and store it in its stems, leaves and roots. Used in this way, ashes will surely and rapidly build up such a farm. There is occasionally a case where clays are bene- fitted by potash. If ashes give a marked result on Clover the soil needs them. The Rural, editorially, adds the timely advice that in places where good wood ashes are cheap, farmers should never buy chem- ical fertilizers until the ashes have been tried. A first-rate supplement to unleached ashes is raw-bone flour, being strong in phosphoric acid, in which ashes are weak, and furnishing nitrogen of which ashes are destitute. COMMENTS BY READERS. A departmetit to which all aye invited to send notes of experience and observation concerning topics that recently have been treated on in this Journal, Many such contributions monthly are welcome. Stratagem Pea. For home use the Strata- gem is one of the very best Peas grrown, but it has its drawbacks. To begin with, the seeds are more costly than most standard sorts, also they are so large that they don't go as far in the row as the same measure of smaller Peas. Now lor something not generally known about Peas. Large-seeded Peas, no matter what their quality may be, are disliked on aristocratic tallies, and our highest toned French cooks absolutely refuse to cook them. Alpha, Advance and Champion of England are ideal Peas In size. It is rather try- ing to see the splendid Stratagems served to the servants and the lesser Peas to McAlister. Stra- tagems with us on rich sandy land grow ^% to 3 feet high, and Telephones 7 or 8 feet high. Telephone is a Pea of fine quahty, but it grows too rank and doesn't crop enough. Evergreens in Summer. So you admire their beauty. I am glad you do. Let's see. Every Evergreen is perfect ; they display no mark ot drouth or other enervation, their color is of the deepest green, their form ot the comliest, and everything is clean and tidy about them. With deciduous trees on the other hand, the Horse Chestnuts are dropping their leaves, so too are the Catalpas and the Walnuts and the Hickories, and the foliage of the Lindens is crumpling and falling, and the Plane tree leaves are dusted and deformed with mildew. And dead branchlets, the work of insects, are hanging all over the (laks, and disgusting web nets of caterpillars are everywhere. Still we have room for all kinds of trees. Chinese Box as a neat enclosure for cemetery lota p. 2.53. This is ail right in a way, but I must take exception to the "enclosure" of any kind. The only enclosure to a cemetery lot should be the outside fence ot the cemetery, and there should be no enclosure of any kind whatever, whether iron rail, stone curb, or plant hedge, inside the cemetery In most all new prominent cemeteries, and the new portions of old cemet- eries, enclosures of lots in anyway are absolutely prohibited. And too the graves are filled in level with the giound and not left in mounds as before. And all this admits of keeping the cemetery like a spacious park garden. Anemones. Your note p. 358, about our pretty wild Rue Anemone, prompts me to advise your readers to trj' some Crown or St. Bridget Anemones. They have large, many-colored, single flowers and are easily raised from seed sown indoors in spring. If well taken care of— I plant them out in a moist half-shady bit ot ground— they will bloom well the following spring. In fall I lift them from the open ground and plant them somewhat thickly into a cold frame as I do Pansies or Daisies, and get many splendid flowers in late winter and spring. Freesias. I am glad you have a good word for these, p. 25fl. I grow them in thousands and am doubling the supply every year. They are so lovely, so eas.v to grow and so accommodating, I have them in unbroken quantity between December and April. Their flowers are white, elegant, deliciously fragrant and can be used for most any purpose or associated with most all other flowers, even with Orchids. And as pot plants, when in full bloom, ladies are perfectly delighted with them. The main points I find in their cultivation are, repot them early so as to give them a good long season to grow before flowering, perfect drainage in the pots, complete protection from frost, light airy winter quarters, timely staking, and keep them growing after the flowers are plucked as long as the leaves will keep green.— W'm. Falconer, Japanese Miniature Gardening. A Japan- ese botanist gives the following interesting par- ticulars as to the means by which the stunted trees, like the Pine shown on page 10, are produced. The seeds are sown in very small pots, and the seedlings allowed to grow until the pots are full of roots, when they are shifted into other Ipots scarcely larger than before. Thus treated the greater part of the main tap-root dies, the remaining portion emitting secondary roots, which are sub.1ected to a similar starving process, with a result that they often project above the surface, and support the plants as on stilts. The branches as they grow are tied down and twisted in all possible directions, something after the approved pattern of a specimen plant at a European flower show! Actual pruning is not resorted to, the starving and bending of the new shoots as they are formed being found suflicient for the purpose. Sometimes as a result of this incessant torture all the branches die, leaving only the stump, in the shape of a thick shapeless stock, on which buds are grafted, so that from the same stock numerous different varieties may issue.— E. Ex. The Japan Quinces. Mr. Fuller's commenta on the above, on page 255 of last volume, agree with my notion about this fruit. Some seasons my flowering Japan bears very handsome fruit like a very large Apple, hard and astringent while green, but when ripe has a most delicious fragrance, so that one specimen put in a peck of common Quinces will give it the flavor in pre- serving. This is on the old Pyrus Japonica or Scarlet-flowering Quince from Japan. But of late years we have another Japan Quince that is destined to make its mark in the south. A speci- men of the fruit was sent me that weighed near two pounds. Color a dark green with a kind of bronze cheek. It differs in form from our American Quinces, is much hardier and has a different taste. The specimen alluded to never got soft, but when we considered it ripe had it preserved, and although quite different from our homegrown, and not quite as good to most tastes, it was still what I call good, and if we could grow them here I would try it. A novelty and a curiosity they are anyhow.— Samuei Mil- ler, Mo, Keeping Onions over Winter (page 19). For this purpose we have erected two large rooms in the end of our barn, above ground. These rooms are almost frost-proof in the coldest weather; are provided with double windows at each end of rooms, and double doors from entrance from drive-way on floor of the barn. All the walls have dead-air spaces. BuUding paper is tacked on the inside of each boarding that forms the hollow space. We use thousandsof bushel boxes, made of slats and the Onions are kept in them. Our aim is to put in dry, weU-cured stock, and to place it in such a way that it may always be airing at suitable times, and yet always be secured against low degrees of temperature.— H. H.Hurd, Ont, 30 POPULAR GARDENING. November, Hardy Flowers in Masses. The way to show off the true loveliness of many hardy flowers, is to grow them in masses. Sniall puny pieces of such free- growing things, as, for instance. Dwarf Phloxes, the Aubrietias, Windflowers, and many other flowers that could be men- tioned, says an English authority, give us no more idea of their real beauty than a sprig of Honeysuckle does of a plant when seen clambering over hedges by the wayside. Many of the most beautiful fea- tures in the garden are the masses of hardy flowers, especially those of mossy growth that hang down over the ledges, and give brilliant patches of color. It is when seen in this way that we become enrap- tured with the simple beauty of Alpines, and wish that more would re- peat such effects and not kill the plants vrith kind- ness, as is too often the case, under the impres- sion that they are tender and fastidious. Aubrietias and many of the Rock Pinks need no special conditions be- yond a sunny nook and plenty of space to spread at will. It is when they are constantly tampered with by dividing that the plants are hindered from making that progress that they would do it left alone, as in Nature. It is, of course, impossible where the garden is small to grow many things and have large patches of each; but it is infinitely better to restrict the num- ber, and do those well, than have a lot of weak- ly things that give but little pleasure. The waving masses of the apennine Windflower, Bluebells, and, earlier in the year, Snowdrops, Daffodils, and Crocuses at Kew were a source of the greatest delight to the visitors, simply because they were grown as naturally as possible, peering up in the Grass, as we should expect to see them in their homes on the mountain slopes, or in the valley, as the case may be. Treating our hardy flowers in this way costs but little, gives scarcely any trouble, and the pleasure derived is ten times as great to those who admire simply beauty as if only a wretched scrap was seen. In exhibiting hardy flowers it is far better to show large tufts than small bits, and this is becoming the fashion, for such we must call it, with the result that we have bolder groups of flowers, that, seen at the show, are as effective and telling as we can desire. Wbatever it is, whether the Rock Pink in a chink on the wall, or the apennine Wind- flower in the wild garden, or the Marsh Marigold in the moist corner, let all grow as naturally as possible, and they vnW bloom with their wonted freedom and brilliancy. It is a pity that that class of hardy flowers —the aquatic plants— does not receive a lit- tle more favor. It is not difficult to establish what is known as a bog garden, and the specimen in the centre of the Kew rockery is a good model ot its kind. There the March Marigolds grow like weeds, and such things as the scarlet Lobelia, a truly mois- ture-loving plant, Sarracenia purpurea, Spir»a palmata, etc., find conditions which by their vigorous nature they thoroughly enjoy. It is true pleasure to see flowers un- der artificial conditions growing as if they hangs down its semi-double flowers like Lilies. Sow in September or October for next year's planting; but if sown late it'had best be in a cold frame. No flowers should be grown without special attention be paid to improvement. If we are slovenly enough to allow the fruits or flowers to retrograde on our hands, we are retrograding also. Another flower that I am never tired of is the Lily. It FLOWERS OF PYRETHRUM ULIGINOSUM. Drawnon Ptipxilar aarrJeni7w Grnt(7>6x. September 30, reduced in size. See page 25. were planted by the hand of nature in their native homes Flowers for Enthusiasts. E. P. POWELL, ONEIDA CO., N. Y. A few flowers always awaken my enthu- siasm. Among them are Hollyhocks. So capable is this flower of improvement and endless variety, that it pays us for every effort at careful culture. But it is sure to run back if neglected. I find it essential to select seed of the best varieties, and plant them when ready in beds somewhat closer than needed. Then dig out the poorer sorts when they come to bloom. Better yet, when you get a fine strain, divide the roots and so multiply it. I grow this flower along my fences, and border my fields with it. It is grand at a distance, running from purest white to nearly black. One strain of white is a constant wonder that, cheap as these bulbs now are, they are not more generally in cultivation. I find Hyacinths every- where, but not LOies, except coarser sorts. I expect that one reason is that the very soil and richness that suits a Hya- cinth kills a Lily. Manure is death to most of them. The Longifloriim or Easter sorts are generally classed as hardy, but are not absolutely so. An open winter generally puts an end to them. It is best to cover all Lilies with some coarse litter, leaves or evergreen boughs. The Candidum is so superb that it should be grown in masses every- where. The fragrance is superb. I have had Aura- tums in bloom for nearly three months. I think this flne Lily is sporting its habits. The early flowering have shorter stalks and smaller flowers, but richer colors. The Speciosum is for general planting about as valu- able as Candidum, being quite hardy and noble in colors and fragrance. 1 hope thousands will invest this fall in a bed of Lilies. Select Candi- dum, Longiflorum, Ti- gridium, Speciosum, Au- ratum, and the little Si- berian Lily, with a plenty of native meadow Lilies. I heartily recommend still more attention to Gladioli. The flower is magnificent in coloring, and of endless variation in flakes and stripes and selfs. The Gandavensis stock offers us thousands of truly fine varieties, and any one can with atten- tion raise for himself choice seedlings as good as the best. For five years past these have been rivalled by a strain of Gladiolus Lemoinei. Now we have a very fine set of crosses from Purpurea auratus and Gandavensis. These will stand a good deal of attention. So far these flowers are scentless. This is a great drawback. It may be in time remedied by farther efforts in the way of selection and crossing. Turicensis is a new cross offered this spring. Among my own seedlings I have a sort that holds ;its cup directly upward like a Tulip. I have designated it Tulipifera and hope to see it the parent of a new style. The Gladiolus is truly remarkable as a cut flower, opening all its buds in a vase almo.st as well as in the ground. It is a bright, cheerful flower that never wearies the eye. It has also the advantage of needing little room for its roots and growth, and is of easiest possible cultivation. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 31 I should like to have you try the Freesia for winter bloom. It is by all odds the finest of winter bulbs. It needs, however, more care than our bulb catalogues generally specify. There should not be over five bulbs to a five inch pot, and the soil should be made rich with easily available food. The potting may be done till November, but it is far better to do it in August. The best results come from early planting. The flower is of fine substance and color, and deliciously sweet. I class it among the health-giving flowers, whereas Hyacinths are really unfit for house bloom, because they emit a sickening odor. Mr. Thorpe, who is one of the best-skilled and instructive of our florists, tells us to use as soil for Freesias sandy loam, and a quart of bone flower to every half bushel of dirt. In this way he secures strong flower stalks about as large as those of the slender varieties of the Gladiolus. dance of flowers." My own opinion of these Christmas Roses is that they are a most welcome addition to our cut flowers and particularly valuable as they come in when variety as well as quantity is limited. As pot-plants I have a high opinion of the Lenten Roses, but they have got to be strong-flowered and well grown. Neither the Christmas nor the Lenten Roses can be grown perfectly or advan- tageously as outdoor hardy perennials. They have got to be grown in cool green- house and frame. The Christmas Roses Helleborus for Flor- ists' Uses. BY W. FALCONER. We have two sets of Helleborus, namely Christmas and Lenten Roses. The Christmas Rose belongs to Helle- borus Nigra, and its variety has large white flowers in November and December. The Lenten Roses are represented by Helle- borus Olympicus, H. Colchicus, and H. Ori- entalis, and have purple flowers, and some of their varieties and hy- brids have white, purple, and spotted flowers and they come in bloom be- tween Janu'y and April. Christmas Roses are useful as cut flowers, also good planted in pots, and if in bloom are excellent for house decoration. The Lenten Roses are useful only as pot-plants. Both are more fancy than staple articles. Florists who have got a good local trade can use Helleborus to good advantage, but I would not advise florists who grow flowers for the wholesale merchants, to handle them. For cut flowers, H. Nigra Max, is the best, but the blossoms have got to be cut just as wanted for use for they have no great lasting qualities. One of our leading Boston florists who has raised these flowers, writes me " I am a little in doubt about their value as cut flowers. Those I had last winter did not come up to my hopes and expectations in keeping qualities, being in- clined to hang and droop their heads too much. As pot-plants they will give much better satisfaction. The demand at first will be limited and grow slowly, still it is a flower that it will pay to grow as a desirable variety." A New York florist writes me: " There is no doubt that H. Nigra Max, and the larger-flowered varieties of H. Nigra would be profitable for cut flowers if large established plants were planted out in a cool greenhouse or a well-protected cold frame. The great difficulty, however, lies in the first cost of this large plant, and second, that as a rule a florist wants to get immedi- ate returns for his investment and wUl not wait for four or flve years or until his plants become large enough to produce an abun- GROUP OF WHITE PHLOXES. Re-engraved from Gardening lUuetrated. should be planted out firmly and for this reason I prefer them in cold frames. As the Lenten Roses are a pot-plant, they may be planted outside in a cold frame in summer and brought indoors in the winter, or if they are wanted for late, kept out in the frame till they show signs of flowering and then brought indoors. They all prefer a well-drained loamy soil with a loose surface and somewhat shady place in summer. A frame up against a north or northeasterly facing wall of a building is a good place for them. Or give them under a raised lath or brush shading such as it used over forest tree seed beds. I mulch the ground about them with half wilted leaves and finely chopped sphagnum, and this keeps it cool and loose and moist all the season. About the Hardy Phloxes. CHARLES L, EVANS, TIOGA CO., PA. I quite agree with the position Popular Gardeninc; takes that if we are to have a national flower, let it by all means be the Phlox. It is remarkable, that this one genus of North American plants, should have produced what may be regarded as the most widely popular annual both in Europe and America, and well nigh the most use- ful perennials of our gardens. But my object is not so much to speak of the Phlox as a family as to give some cultural notes about the summer-flowering hardy division, which is now attracting increased attention. But while Phloxes will live and bloom in almost any soil, I do not know another garden flower, not even the Hollyhock, which repays rich feeding and a deep soil better than do they. With good treatment they will develop gorgeous flowers and spikes. When the whole bed cannot be dug deep and be heavily manured, the place oc- cupied by each plant should thus be treated. Coming in bloom during the period when drouth is liable to prevail, it is well to help them over any dryness by mulching about them with half decayed stable manure, and soaking the soil at the roots at intervals with manure water. A faulty course in growing Phloxes is to allow the plants to go on growing in size from year to year without di- viding, the certain result of which is that the bloom and spikes be- come smaller every year. The case is other- wise when the plants are taken up every second or third year, divided into from four to eight parts and reset, or else replaced by young plants otherwise propagated. Undoubtedly to divide the roots is the most natural method of pro- viding new Phlox plants, and the one that will usually be prac- ticed. Still those who pride themselves on plants of the most per- fect strength and beauty should resort to one of several other ways of increasing the stock. The first method of which I shall speak is propagation by cuttings. This is done by taking the young shoots in the spring when they have reached a length of two or three inches, potting them singly in good soil, in small pots and plunging them in earth or sand in a hot-bed. The cuttings will .soon root and form niceyoungplants, which will, with proper encouragement, flower the same season, either if grown in pots or bedded out. For pot bloom each plant should occupy a flve or six inch pot. After the flowers are past the plants may be set into the border, and in the next season will reach the height of their beauty. Perennial Phloxes seed more or less freely. An easy way to get up a stock of good plants is to save seed from the best varieties in the fall, and sow it the following February in pots or pans filled with soil in gentle heat The seeds germinate quickly. When the seedlings have attained a size that will admit of easy handling, they should be pricked out into boxes of good soil, having the plants three or four inches apart. Then they can be placed in a mild hot-bed and later into a cold frame to harden them for planting out. In May they may be trans- planted to a bed of well-prepared soil in the garden, to stand a foot apart both ways. Nearly all such plants will produce fine spikes of bloom by September. It is found in thus raising seedlings, that many of them will be about as good as the parents, and rarely one may even surpass them. Those who pride themseves on their success with this flower, usually provide a succession of young plants, removing the old ones after the third year. 32 POPULAR GARDENING. November, November Rain. The Sunflower crowus by the garden wall From blackened stalks hang down, And the way-side Mulleins, stiff and tali, Are withered and bare and brown. At chimney crevice and window sash Sounds the east wind's railing strain. And now with a sudden ijatterlng dash Fail slanting sprays of rain. The Locust branches are all asway. And Lilac shrubs bow low; The Almond bushes bend away. And the straggling Rose-vines blow. And plashing now on the fallen leaves And now on the window pane. And dripping now from the mossy eaves Are the crystal tears of rain. — Oood Housekeeping . The Pumpkin. O,— fruit loved of boyhood!— the old days recalling. When Wood-Grapes were purpling and brown Nuts were falling! When wild, ugly faces we carved in Its skin. Glaring out through the dark with a candle within! When we laughed round the Corn-heap, with hearts all in tune. Our chair a broad Pumpkin— our lantern the moon, Telling tales of the fairy who traveled like steam In a Pumpkin-shell coach, with two rats for her team! —J. O. Whittier. It was autumn, and Incessant Piped the quail from the shocks and sheaves, And like living coals, the Apples Burned among the withering leaves. —Longfellow. Plant the Bulbs quickly now. Shallow bins for fruit and Onions. Clear up the garden and beds tidily. At least the Peanut crop is plentiful. The Chrysanthemum is now at the head. No use trying Violets in a warm, close atmos- phere. Winter gardening for most people is window gardening. TTnfermented Grape juice seems to be a coming temperance drink. Yon cannot miss it to prune hardy fruit and other trees la November. Leaves are too valuable for mulching and bedding to be left ungathered. Thinning my fruits has paid me five dollars for every dollar spent in the work.— Pntit Orower. We 'are glad to report that Cauliflower seed raised in Washington has again proved entirely reliable. Someone speaks of the Trumpet Creeper (,Te- coma radicanv) as the Poison Ivy. They are not even relatives. Talk Bight Out. The " Comments " depart- ment of this .lournal is for every reader to help fill. Please offer your practical comments on what may appear in these columns from month to month. The Novelty Trade. To the American Nur- serymen's Association we would say. .loin the florists and seedsmen in their efforts to reform the abuses in the novelty trade. There is room for such reform. On Covering Plants. The object of protecting such hardy plants as Pansies, Strawberries, etc.. is not so much to keep out cold as to jirevent alternate freezing and thawing of the soil, which leads to heaving of the plants. A Victoria Begia in bloom has been on ex- hibit at Slebrecht &■ Wadley's, New llochelle, N. Y., in September. There were also many choice aciiuatic plants, including Nymphjeas and Lotuses from Egypt, Ki-azil and Zanzibar. The Dictamnus or Kraxinella, a choice occu- pant of our garden borders, grows wild in the Alps of Austria, where in rocky, shady nooks it attains a height of more than three feet By some it has been regarded as the " burning bush " of Mo33S, a conception entirely fanciful no doubt. To Keep Orapes, Start Bight. Fruit that is badly ripened, poor and watery, will not keep under any circumstances. For long keeping use well ripened Grapes, placed in an even tempera- ture of not more than 40° F. Thus when care- fully packed in dry sawdust, the fruit may be kept until the vines are in bloom. Plant TTmbrellaa. Here is an idea for some manufacturer. Make a small portable awning for Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, etc., to protect them from injury from fall rains. The cover might consist of some cheap cotton material oiled. They should be sold at a c^heap figure, and arranged to fold into a small compass when not in use.— C. L. Slade, Wayne Co., Pa. And One to Taste. At the great show of preserved and other fruits held by the Royal Horticultural Society in London last month one good feature prevailed. All articles were required to be sent in b.v threes so that one of the samples could be opened and tasted by the judges. This is right. Judgment of fruit based only on appearances is not good judgment. Leaf Propagation of Chrysanthemums. It is not generally known that the Chrysanthemum can be propagated from a single leaf as well as from cuttings and division. Take a leaf with a bud at its base and cover it lightly with sand in some slightly shaded spot where the heat is con- genial, and it will after a little throw out roots and start an upward growth. Portrait of a Nurseryman. We are in receipt of a fine portrait of the late B. S. Williams, of Upper Holloway, England, sent out by the Vic- toria and Paradise Nurseries which were founded by him. Mr. Williams will be remembered as a benevolent man, always ready to promote horti- culture, and one who at all times had in view the advancement of gardening and the gardener. He was a great collector of choice plants. Peaches at Niagara, Canada. In the township of Niagara alone there are at least 4,000 acres of land devoted to Peach culture, or about one-flf th of the whole amount of arable land in the town- ship. So well adapted indeed is this land to Peach culture and so little have the trees suffered with either blight or yellows that little else in the fruit line is planted, and that almost every farm is being devoted to the Peach as the most profit- able industry. Swarf Mock Orange Bush, For a dwarf shrub of rounded form for the lawn or shrub border, we know of nothing that is capable of giving better general satisfaction than the subject of the engraving on the opposite page. It is of robust habit, requiring no petting under ordin- ary culture. Its growth is symmetrical without the use of the pruning shears, while if these are brought to bear on its branches, it may be easily had as round as a ball. The variety rarely pro- duces Howers. The Wild Flower Club. The rapid disappear- ance of our beautiful native flora has become a subject of national agitation, and our leading botanists are giving it their earnest attention. We want no national flower until our beautiful native ones are saved to us. A pamphlet descrip- tive of the American Wild Flower Club can be had from us by sending stamp. We have plent.v for all. No salaried commissioners are engaged in this work, but it is a labor of love.— C. .S. Hmn, Wilmington, Del. Grape Eot Under Control. Col. Pearson of New Jersey, says that success in treating Grapes with copper sulphate for black rot and mildew has been as complete this year in that region as could be hoped. All those who have sprayed their vines with the Bordeaux mixture early and often, have almost perfect crops of Concord Grapes. Only a few vine-growers have had the energy to spray their vineyards. Unless these precautionary measures are taken it would seem that for the present. Grape-growing is impossi- ble in infected regions. You Beader. Did you send some notes of your experience to Popdlar Gardening during the past year'/ Certainly many of you did not; we urge that such do better the coming year. " Everybody knows more than anybody," is one of the mottoes of this journal, and accordingly we desire to have everybody— that means you, dear reader— to address the family through our columns, telling us about your successes and your failures. Don't fear because you may be no trained writer that your Information would not be creditable— the editors in every such case will help you out. We want, the Pop- ular Gardening family wants, your ideas; we shall see that they are well presented. A Famous Woman Botani't and Artist. In the pursuit of her art Miss Marianna North, who recently died at her home in Gloucestershire, England, visited more lands than any painter of the time. A few years ago she gave to the En- glish nation an exhaustive botanic picture gallery at Kew Gardens. It is virtually a pictorial record of her expedition round the world. Among the coinitries whose natural products were thus carefully delineated may be mentioned Teneriffe, Brazil, Jamaica, California, India, Ceylon, Borneo, Singapore, Java, Japan, Australia and New Zealand. Miss North's last journey to South America brought on a long and painful illness, to which she has just succumed at her residence in Gloucestershire. She was sixty j'ears of age. A Historical Myrtle. Here is an instance of the use of flowers by royalty that might fit into the experience of any people, however humble. When the Emperor William arrived at Osborne, in August of last year, he was shown by his grandmothei', the Queen, a very vigorous Myrtle which has a history. On the marriage day of the father of the present Emperor William with the Princess Royal, of England, and the moment the young married couple were taking leave of the Queen, the Crown Prince when bidding farwell to his mother-in-law, took a spray of the Myrtle from the nuptial bouquet, and presented it to Her Majesty. The Queen took the spray, and sent it on the same day to Osborne, that it might be rooted and planted in the garden That spray has become the little tree which the Queen showed to her grandson. Blue Geranium, When one hears of such a flower it is well to collect one's thoughts for a moment, and consider whether the novelty is offered under the class of the tender so-called garden Geraniums {which in a botanical sense are Pelargoniums) or the real Geraniums of the woods and clearings, and which are commonly known as the Crane's Bill. We are led to make this suggestion becaue a "blue Geranium " was placed before the Floral Committee of the Lon- don Horticultural Society by the Rev. W. Wilks, and which received a flret-class certificate. But it is of the true Geraniums, not that which we cultivate under that name. In some respects it comes near to our own G. pratense, but appears to be not only distinct from it, but better, the large white center enhancing the beauty of the blue color. The novelty is called Shirley Blue. Light for Primroses, I sometimes meet plants of the Single Primrose in the houses of people that are not in as good condition as they might be, simply from being deprived of more light than suits them. This flower is easily grown to perfection it one observes to give it all the light and sun possible— a shelf near the glass being the best position for the plants. It does not require much heat, 45° to 55° suiting it. Frequent or violent changes of atmosphere are to be guarded against, as this alone might prove fatal to the plants. Another common cause of the plants not doing well is alternate periods of being kept too wet or too dry. An even state of a moderate amount of moisture and regular temperature is by far the best preventive of the decay of the stem so often met with in these plants.— J. D. L., Oenesee Co., N. Y. Preserve the Pure Streams. A recent English writer bewails the defilement of the formerly pure streams, and calls tor a crusade against the evil. If there is one beauty in a landscape, it is a pure clear stream or brook rippling over the stones. If there is one blot on a land- scape, it is a muddy, sewage-defiled stream. The wonder is that so many land owners have allowed a clear stream— one of Nature's sweetest gifts— to be defiled. In numbers of cases the day when a stream was clear is easily remembered. My mind recalls streams once about pure, now foul, and a large millpond now filled with fermenting deposit which was once clear. At Lancing Col- lege, the entire sewage is clumsily allowed to ooze over the north slope of their hill, while below is a clear, delicious spring and stream and vale called I.adywell, into whichsomeof itseems to be led, so far as symptoms demonstrate. Less Land and Hore Profit. Governor Hill, of New York, in one of his recent speeches, re- peated the story of an English farmer who owned 300 acres of laud. At the marriage of each of his three daughters he gave, .50 acres as dower, and at the last he found he had raised as much on the 150 acres as he had before on the 300. This story is in keeping with an experience the writer recalls in his boyhood days. His 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. father owned a farm of 90 acres adjacent to and partly within the corporation limits of Williams- ville, N. Y., a small town of 700 inhabitants. A new street having been decided on throughout the length of the farm, he had no difficulty in selling off three-fourths of the tract in small parcels of from one to three acres apiece to village residents. It was often remarked in later years by father, who himself had been a good farmer, that the products from the farm after the di\i8on was manyfold greater than they had been when he managed it after a more ordinary style of tillage. A Fine Hydrangea. At Washington Heights, in the gardens of D. S. Heflron, is the finest specimen of the above noble shrub that we have seen. It has been planted about twelve years. It has a woody stem at the ground eight inche in diameter, from which spring a number of branches to the height of eight or ten feet, forming a circular bush fifteen feet in diameter. When in full flower it is a verit- able bouquet on a gigantic scale. This bush for years has been quite a source of income from cutflowers sold to the Chicago florists. As long stems are desirable to the heads of flowers, and as every shoot has a flower head, by the time the flowers are all cut the bush has received a pretty severe pruning. They are left in this condition until spring, when each shoot is pruned back again to half its length. The buds begin to start vigorously and a solid mass of flower- ing shoots is the result. The shrub is as hardy as the Oak natural to the soil, and we^ are astonished that it does not become as common as the Lilac— Cm-. Praii-ie Farmrr- Onr Experience Meeting. The helpful- ness of Popular Gabdeninq is remarka- ble. In that respect it is the ideal horti- cultural paper. It amounts to a weekly convention of florists and fruit growers; and saves us car fare and hotel expenses. I was thinking of Mr. Miller's notes on Blackberries. I wanted to hear from the Erie and Minnewaski. With me the former has not fruited well. It has so far failed of giving re- munerative crops that I must re,iectit. Agawam, Mr. Miller does not report on; but all in all, I like it best of any that I have. Last year I picked 400 quarts from a patch of Snyders about three rods by one rod. But I never could get a decent yield of Snyder until I grew them wild. I plant wide enough to cultivate a year or two, till they get well hold of the soil, then I let them take care of themselves; only cutting off tops down to six feet, and cutting out old canes once a year. The Snyder, especially likes moist, low land, and cannot endure a dry spell. My Aga- wams do finely on upland. Taylor seems very much like Agawam if I have it true.— E.P. PotocH. The Shaking Fern. I desire to say a good word for this best of all house Ferns. It is known by the florists as Ptei^is tremula, and can be bought at nearly every greenhouse. It is one of the most popular Ferns we have, and deservedly so, too. for when well grown it forms a light and elegant specimen. It also has the recommenda- tion of being of free growth under circumstances quite unfavorable to many other plants. It suc- ceeds best in rather a cool atmosphere, and even in a young state it will do much better where there is little or no artificial heat; but it must not be exposed to a draught. Grow the plants in good, open, loamy soil, keeping the crowns down low enough so that the roots which start from the base of the fronds may spread out and not become drawn up, as, being of rapid growth, they are verj' likely to run up weakly if a little crowded. Attend regularly to the watering, and after the pots are well filled with roots, a little liquid manure may be used occasionally with good effect. With ordinary care good useful plants may be established in a very short time.— Mrs. Henrietta Newton, Kalamazoo Co., Mich. The Silva of North America. One of the most important works ever issued from the American press is announced under the above heading in the September Bulletin of Houghton, Mifflin & Co. New York. It is a description of the trees which grow natural in North America, exclusive of Mexico, by Charles Sprague Sargent, director of the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard Univer- sity and conductor of Garden and Forest. The work will be in twelve volumes, quarto, each containing 50 plates, and engraved on copper by Philibert and Eugene Picart. Vol. I. will be ready the present autumn. The value of a care- fully and amply illustrated Silva of North America to botanists, students of forestry, and lovers of science in general, is bej'ond question. No comprehensive description of the trees of North America, like that contained in this work has ever been published, and indeed has not been possible before the explorations I'endered practicable by the very recent opening up of all parts of our continent. Professor Sargent is recognized as the highest authority on this sub- ject. His position as director of the Arnold Arboretum of Harvard University, his opportu- nities while in government employ for exploring forests and studying trees in all parts of the country, specially qualify him for this work. His descriptive text will be supplemented by superb illustrations, by the best of artists. No pains or cost have been spared ingathering the materials and in the mechanical execution of this great work. M'^-^ THE DWARF MOCK ORANGE. See opposite page. Kew Fruits. The " Middlefleld " is a new Strawberry announced by P. M. Augur & Sons, of Middlefield, Conn., the introducers of .lewell and Gold Strawberries. The "Rural" Straw- berry is announced from Kentucky. A. D. Webb, who originated Warren, Longfellow, Daniel Boone and others, found it in an old orchard, was attracted by its foliage and promise of fruit, removed it to his grounds, and found it of great merit. William L. Dulaney. president of the Kentucky State Horticultural Society, writes us that it " promises more than any berry we have had introduced in this part of Kentucky for many years." It will probably be introduced next spring. Among new tree fruits we have the Fuller Quince, which is being introduced by J. T. Lovett, of Little Silver, N. Y. We have been favorably impressed with the fruit in New Jersey, and while it may not revolutionize Quince culture in America, we are sure it will be a credit to the original discoverer, Mr. A. S. Fuller, of New Jersey. The Roekford Plum is intro- duced by M. G. Patten. The original tree, now fourteen years old, came up on the edge of a native Plum thicket in Floyd Co., Iowa, near where German Prunes and Lombards were grown. It it supposed by some to be a cross with three European varieties, says Mr. G.B. Brackett, but from a careful examination of the leaf and tree. I believe it to be strictly a native variety of the Pruiius Chica^a. The fruit is rather below medium, oblong, dark red with a rich bloom, ! Violets, etc., may be depended upon for a supply ripens ten days earlier than De Soto. When com- of flowers during winter. To obtain best re- Chinese Fan Palm {Livintoiiia C?i£nensi,s) is per- haps of all the Palms the most desirable, because being so easily suited in treatment. Kentia (or Howea) Belmoreana and Forsteriana are also Palms of great value. The India Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) is one of the most ornamental and widely grown plants, being one that endures the dry dusty atmosphere of dwelling houses exceedingly well, because of its thick leathery leaves. There is a golden variegated form that is very flue, being equally as well suited for house culture. Among Ferns for house culture, the Shaking Fern iPteris tremula) is of the best; grows very rapidly, soon making handsome specimens. The Small Sword-Fern (Nephrolepix Duffi} is an elegant miniature variety of the old but popular Sword Kern that commends itself to all by its easy culture and graceful appearance. Any first-class florist should be able to supply most of the above. Try Hardy Plants in the Window. Mr. Josiah Hoopes gives some excellent points in a recent article in the Weekly Tribune on hardy growths for window culture ; Thrifty young shrubs, two or three years old, chosen from among early-bloomers, form as attractive window ornaments as any kind of plants we can select. They are cheap, and adapted to the atmosphere of our living rooms, growing and bloom- ing in pots with the freedom of shrubs in the open ground. Early-blooming hardy herbaceous plants are equally desirable for the purpose, and require even less care. The multitude of enfeebled Roses, Gerani- ums, etc., in the winter windows of so many flower-loving people should be re- placed by more easily-grown plants, and we would then hear far less complaint of "poor luck with flowers." In selecting shrubs for this purpose earliness is of greatest importance ; next comes freedom of bloom ; then adaptability to pot-cul- ture ; and lastly, dwarf compact habit. No plant should be rejected for not conforming to the last requisition, as any shrub can be made denser by systematic pruning, once or twice a year. Young and thrifty shrubs are preferable to those with old, hardened wood, and will pro- duce more bloom as well as prove more sightly in pots. Although most early-blooming shrubs will answer the purpose, the following seem to fill the bill with entire satisfaction, provided the plants have been previously pruned into proper shape; Deutzia gracilis, the perfection of a house plant, and fine for cut-flowers, as are all the family. The Weigelas in variety, especially " Candida," with pure white flowers, and any of the deep-red colored varieties. Forsythia fortuni, with golden yellow bloom, and an im- proved habit, with very dark green foliage. Philadelphus coronarius, or the " Mock-orange," is beautiful, and possesses a delightful fragrance. The double Rose, and double white Almonds, are among the best plants for the purpose, blooming both early and profusely. The Mis- souri Currant, with its rich, spicy fragrance and bright yellow flowers, is excellent. Spinea prunifolia, S. Reevesi (both single and double), S. Thunbergi, S. trilobata, etc., are all valuable. And lastly, the Syringas or Lilacs are all beauti- ful, although not so readily grown by amateurs as some of the foregoing. Among herbaceous plants, such easily forced species as Astilbe jap- onica, Dicentra spectabilis, Lily of the Valley, pared with the many native sorts on Exhibition, in quality it was superior to all. The Best House Plants. When looking around for the best kinds to stock up with, it will be well to have before us the answer which Mr. B. F. Critchell gave to the question of the 13 best window plants, at the recent florists' convention in Boston. He named Aspidistra lurida varie- gata— a Liliaceous plant from Eastern Asia, having oblong lanceolate leaves — easily grown in an ordinary window garden; small pots should be used. Azaleas of the Indian or Chinese classes continue to increase in beauty with each season's growth. Callas— few plants exceed these in pop- ular estimation. Of Palms, a number were named as being very suitable for house decora- tion. Dracscna or Cordyline, terminalis and indivisa are tropical plants of rare beauty, the attractiveness lying in the leaves, which vary in color from green to light crimson. The southern Palm (Corupha Australia or more properly, iit'- istonia Australia) is a very ornamental plant from Eastern Australia for window decoration. The suits, the plants should be lifted as soon as matured in autumn, say in November, potted in good light soil, and set away in a cool shaded location, until needed for forcing. Never use pots of a larger size than is absolutely necessary, and plunging in coal ashes encourages root for- mation. One may readily enjoy a succession of flowers all winter long by forcing a few at a time, and replenishing as the bloom fades away. Hrady plants of every description dislike strong heat, preferring a cool moist atmosphere, with plenty of air in mild weather, and free access to the sun's rays. They do not require to be con- stantly deluged with water, but should receive a liberal supply whenever the soil becomes dry. Drainage in the pots must always be attended to, as stagnant water at the roots will result in diseased plants and impoverished flowers. For window-culture, the plants should be started either in a cool greenhouse, or sunny window in the domestic apartments, whence they may be removed to the living room as the bloom begins to appear. 34 POPULAR GARDENING. November, '-I^EiN(iMATTER"ntAT Deserves ^ TO BEVnOElYKHOWIi. Western New York ' Qrape Grower's Associa- tion. This is a Uve and active organization with headquarters at Fredonla, Chautauqua Co., N. Y. Its officers arc as follows, E. G. Wright, president; John Farel, vice-president; A. S. Watson of Westfield, manager. Flowers as Educators, I think flowers not only help to beautify our homes, but to make them more valuable. They help to elevate the tastes of those who cultivate flowers. The husbands and sons who help to cultivate the flower garden will be refined and elevated by their influence.— Hocnffteiiille Farmers' Club. Ohio State Horticnltural Society. Remember that while we ' trust ^ in Providence and ' com- bine ' with Nature to produce an abundance of fruits, flowers and vegetable, yet we are strongly opposed to the third member of the Trinity of Mammon, and do not desire a ' monopoly ' of the benefits of the society, but cordially invite all horticulturists to join us.— Sec'y Farnsworth. Stimulating Love for Flowers. At a small local show in England the committee offered prizes for the best window gardening. Space was not to exceed four feet by two feet. For these prizes there were four entries, all more or less good. The first was very gay ; the plants used were various: Geraniums, Fuchsias, Hy- drangeas and things of this nature, with Lobelia, Musk, Campanulas, etc., as edging plants. Florida Sub-Tropical Exposition. This will open about the second week in January, and will continue from twelve to fifteen weeks. The display this season promises to be an exceedingly valuable one, covering a wide range of fruits, flowers, vegetables, farm products and rare plants and shrubs. Exhibits from the Bahamas and West India Islands will lend an additional attraction.— S. A. Adams, Sec'y Jacltsonville, Fla. Welcome to the Fig. R. Williamson, at a meet- ing of the California State Horticultural Society stated that the tree par excellence for California is the Fig. Fig growing will be the largest of the state's industries. The common purple Fig of California is a strong grower and an im- mence producer, and at even three cents a pound for the dried article, is a most profitable fruit. The best country for the Fig he believed to be the foot of the hills of the Sierras. Ohio State Fair. The horticulturists of the state may well be proud of their display of fruits. The exhibit of Grapes was particularly noticeable for number of varieties as well as for almost phenomenally good quality. The number of entries of Apples was a surprise, for this fruit is known to be a failure over a large portion of the state. The entries in all departments of fruit was about one-fourth larger than at any time ever before. Co-Operation in Marketing; Fruits. There are some difflculties encountered in marketing fruit through commission men. The percentage paid is large and the risks are all with the grower. Experience has shown that judicious co-operation will accomplish the following re- sults: 1. Correct the abuses now practiced by commission men.— 2. Enable producers to buy supplies more advantageously.— 3. Enable ship- pers to get reduced rates from railroads. — 4. Give prices enough better to more than repay the cost.— B. J. Howland, Ind. State Uort. Sot. Peacl^ Tfellows. Sometimes the disease makes more progress than is visible. When the trees do not bear fruit, the yellows may be working its way through an orchard without revealing itself to the grower. Afterwards the indications of yellows are the results of two or more years rather than one. But this condition of things should put every Peach grower on his guard. Peach orchards without fruit are expensive luxuries. They require cultivation and care, and no fruit in return to foot the bills ; but as they are so generous when laden with fruit, cultiva- tors should treat them generously while they are recuperating for another burdea.—Mr.WUeu before the Saugatuck [Mich.) Hon. Soc. Floral Societies of California, A society has just been organized in Los Angeles, and a large number of florists, nurserymen, gardeners, seeds- men and amateurs have joined, says the Fruit Grower. The society has a great and rich field in which to labor, and it should In a short time become one of thebrightest and most progress- ive of its kind in the country. There are many intelligent floriculturists in the southern coun- ties and it is hoped and believed that they will heartily co-operate with this society in advanc- ing the popularlove for ornamental horticulture. This makes three floral societis for Calif ornia : the State Society. Ventura Society and Los Angeles Society. All of them have been organ- ized In the last two years and all of them are accomplishing great good in educating the public in the culture and love for flowers, trees, shrubs, parks, etc. Let the work go on. nbipct'nns to orora Ditchen. Open Ditches should only be made where absolutely necessary. The reason is obvious ; a tile drain will generally cost but little if anv more than a properly con- structed open ditch with sufficiently sloping hanks. Fields can be cultivated, hauling done in less time, and with less inconvenience, beside the additional ground to cultivate which would be waste land if the ditch was left open. There is a constant demand for the deepeninar and widening of ditches, and this demand will con- tinue until their bottoms are sunk low enough not to obstruct the discharge of the tile drains. The bottom of an open ditch should be at least two feet below the necessary denth of tile drains to prevent the tile from being filled un and ob- structed bv the ever-accumulating sediment in the bottom. Probably the best way to treat this deposit of sediment would be to make bank slopes not to exceed two to one. or still flatter. which will greatly reduce the cost of cleaning out the ditch and keeping it in repair by plow- ing and scraping out the deposit and spreading it on the adiacent land.- 20 feet. Like all other fruit trees they need to he heavily mulched or have the land kept mellow about them while they are small. Natural trees usually commence to bear at from 12 to 20 years of age, and grafted trees of the most prolific varieties in from two 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 35 to seven years after graftini?, varying:, of course, with the age of the stooiss they are worlced on. Varieties. An orchard of Numbo or Paragon Chestnuts will become profitable asearl.vas an orchard of Baldwin or Smith's Cider Apples, and pay as well. Both of these varieties possess hardiness, productiveness and early bearing, with large size and fine appearance of nuts. There are many other fine varieties of Chestnuts which have local reputations for superiority, but before they are introduced to the public, like other fruits, they will have to be tested in differ- ent loc-aiities and under varied circumstances. Chestnut culture is in its infancy yet. As the demand for improved new sorts grows, they will be found and offered. In flavor no large Chestnut, and no European or Japan Chestnut, large or small that I have eaten, is equal to the small ones found in our native woods and meadows. The.v lack the sweet, delicate flavor which is the standard of excellence in nuts, and in most large nuts there is more or less astrin- gency in the skin which covers the kernel, but boiling or roasting corrects this defect, and after they are cooked and the skin removed, which peels very readily from large nuts, there is but little ditference in the taste of different kinds. When the culinary uses of Chestnuts are more generally appreciated in this country, as they are in Europe, the demand for those of large size will be greatly increased. When boiled alone, or shellfed and boiled with Lima beans and prop- erly seasoned, they make a delicious dish. European cooks know how to utilize them in various ways The Maron de Lyons and other large varieties cultivated in Europe, are not hardy in this latitude. The majority of im- ported trees and seedlings raised in this countr.v from imported nuts, are injured or killed by our severe winters. But stock raised from seed of the few exceptionally hardy trees which do flourish here, is generally hardy. In habit of growth the European Chestnut differs from the native species about as the Nor- way Maple differs from the Sugar Maple. The foreign species branch low and form a round- headed tree, while the American grows taller and more spreading. Another characteristic distinction is in the nuts; the fuzz about the point being thicker, and covering a much larger proportion of the shell on the American than on the foreign species. The Japan Chestnut appears to be a smaller tree than either of the other species and a val- uable introduction. It has slender branches and handsome foliage, is of compact symmetrical habit and will be found a useful ornamental tree for small plantations where there would not be room for some of the larger shade trees. All the fruit that I have seen that grew in this country was quite medium in size. I have found it expensive to raise good Chest- nut trees ready for sale, and the cost of produc- tion is one of the obstacles in the way of their more rapid introduction into general cultivation. The chief point of difficulty arises from the loss attendant upon transplanting and the difficulty ot ingrafting. Graftine. My method of grafting them is to cut the cions early and keep them dormant in an ice house until the stocks start and their buds are well swollen, usually about the middle of April. Then cut off the tops and insert tongue grafts and wrap with mixed muslin in the or- dinary manner. It is important that the stock and cion be nearly of the same diameter, other- wise the union is apt to he imperfect. There is not much difficulty in grafting well established thrifty trees of any sizf, provided branches can be found of proper size to fii; the grafts. I have tried grafting one year seedlings at collar as they stood in nursery row, also by taking them up and grafting on whole roots as apples are done, but without success. Have also failed entirely with budding in the ordinary way. In some cases where grafts take and grow for one or two years, they do not make a per- fect union ; there appears to be a lack of affinit.v between cion and stock. Three years ago a good -sized tree of European Chestnut was headed in with about ttfty grafts of the Japan. Nearly ever.v graft took and looked well the first year, but I now find the unions are swelling and in- dicating an apparently imperfect joint and they will evidently decline prematurely. Transplantinr. Almost ever.v time a block of Chestnuts are transplanted from .5 to 2b per cent, of them will die. A chief cause of this appears to lie in the extreme sensitiveness of the roots to exposure to air, and their slowness in re-estab- lishing themselves in the ground again; con- sequently, if the roots get at all dry, the vitality of the tree is wasted by evaporation before the roots get into condition to meet the drain upon them. I therefore make a point of digging or handling (^hestnut trees on damp or drizzling days, and puddle them as soon as possible after digging. None of these difficulties are insur- mountable, but they call for extra care in every part of the work of handling the trees, from the time the seeds are sown until the graft- ed trees are planted in their permanent po- sitions, and I believe that when the intelligent efforts and experiments of a larger number of our practical nurserymen are turned in this direction, that means will be found by which trees can be produced as rapidly and as cheaply as they are needed. Freservine Nuts for Flantine- Mr. Moon gathers the nuts as fast as they fall; the.v are then spread upon the floor about two days, until they go through the process ot sweating and the moisture is dried off. They are then stratified in sand, placed in a cool cellar and kept until spring. Sometimes as many as ninety per cent, of the nuts would sprout in the spring ; in other instances, they would , nearly all be mouldy. The reason for not planting in the fall was to prevent the destruction of the nuts b.v vermin, squirrels and mice. Mr. Storrs, of Ohio, stated that he bought the nuts in the fall from the growers, i)ut them into boxes, three parts sand and one part Chestnuts. These boxes were buried about one foot deep under the soil. He had always been successful in keeping them in growing condition. He had not succeeded so well when they were put in cellars. Mr. J. T. Lovett stated that he had abandoned the attempt to graft Japanese varieties on European stock, as the union was not perfect. Earlier History of Cultivated Narcissus. [Extract of paper &// F. W. Bin-bridge read at the Nar- cissus Conference, Royal Horticultural Societj/ of England . ] lyove for the fraerant blossoms of the Narcissus is almost as olrl as human history Itself. In the Homeric " Hymn toDemeter" (B. C. lOOli), and the " (JMipus at Colonus " of Sophocles, the Narcissus Tazetta is men- tioned for its Elitterina; beauty and fra- grance nearly :i,000 years ago. Mr. W. Flinders Petrie, the celebrated Egypt- ologist, in 1R8S at Hawara, in Egypt, discovered actual flowei-s of Narcissus Tazetta, these blos- soms having been deftly woven into funeral wreaths or votive garlands as long ago as the first century before the Christian era. These offerings to the dead are supposed to have been made by Greek residents in Egypt, and are now preserved in the collections at Kew. The early Greek physicians, such as Hippoc- rates, and later flalen, recommended the nar- cotic roots of Narcissus for anjesthetic and medical purposes. Theophrastus of Eresus (B.C. 374—286), de- scribed the plant, and first alluded to its increase by means of seeds, which he tells us "were some- times gathered for sowing," and he further says that the fleshy roots or bulbs were someiimes planted. As a beautiful and variable wild and garden flower in Southern and Western Euro])e, in North Africa and in the Eas*, there is no doubt but that this flower has ever been popular, but in English gardens the Narcissus seems to have first become famous during, or shortly pre- vious, to Elizabethan times, when all the greatest poets mention it; and during the same epoch, both Gerard and Parkinson, the royal herbalists of their day, illustrate or describe at least one hundred kinds, and of these old Gerard (l.ifl" to 1633) more especially writes that " all and every one of them " abounded in London gardens. No doubt the common yellow Daffodil of the woods and meadows had been popular in England as a flower for the making of festive wreaths or garlands long before exotic kinds were intro- duced and cultivated in gardens. Early in the seventh century choice Narcissi were imported from Constantinople and the Levant generally. In the old Dutt'h paintings of garden flowers, dating from ir>nO to 16.W, many kinds ot Narcissi flnd portraiture. In '• Le Jesuite d'Anvers," the flower wreath contains lite-size portraits of 14 or 1.5 kinds of Narcissi and of Daffodils, some of which are rarities of to-day. Queen Elizabeth seems to have been fond of them, since in a por- trait of her b.v Zucchero, hanging in the Ex- amination Hall of Trinity College, Dublin, there is a flower of a purple-ringed, or Poet's Nar- cissus, painted prominently by her side. In the rare old folios and other books of the same epoch (1.590 to 16.50), many species and varieties, including several natural or wild hybrids, are illustrated by engravings or by cojiper plate etchings, especially the works of the pre-Linnean botanists, such as L'Obel. Dodoens, L'Ecluse-who was one of the first and best of European plant collectors— Jean Robin, Gerard and Parkinson. Portraits of two of the beautiful white Span- ish Daffodils were seen by Salisbury (a noted authority on these flowers about a century ago), in the palace at Fontainebleau. They were worked in colored silks on a Are screen, said to have been given by Henry IV. to La Belle Gabrielle. Small Fruit Growlngr for the Home. [Extract 0/ address by J. M. Smith. Pres. Wis. State Sort. Sac. before Wis. Farmers' Irtstitule.] Nearly every farmer in the state, can, and ought to have a full supply of small fruits for the entire year. Although we cannot yet boast of a general and complete success in growing Apples and Pears, there is no state in the Union, that can show a finer record in the yield of small fruits per acre than Wisconsin. I prefer a rather damp, sandy loam, but if this is not to be had, any land that will grow a good cro]) of Corn or Potatoes, will grow a fair crop of Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries. Cur- rants or Grapes, and any manure that will make Corn or Potatoes grow will make the above named fruits grow. It is safe to say that every square rod of land devoted to Strawberries, and fairl.v well cared for. will give .you at least one bushel of nice berries. Raspberries and Black- berries will yield about two-thirds as much as Strawberries ; Currants should yield at least four quarts to the bush, and Grapes at the rate of at least three tons per acre. These are all very moderate yields. The Strawberry. It is well to manure the land even it it is in good condition. It should also be so well drained that no water can stand upon the beds. In short, put it in as good condition as you would if you expected to raise on it 100 bushels of shelled < 'orn or 2.50 bushels of Potatoes per acre. As to varieties I will say. if the Wilson does as well in your vicinit.v as it does about Green Bay, I truly believe that you will get more fruit from it than from any other Strawberry plant in exi.^tence. It has a perfect blossom and needs no other near it as a fertilizer. Next to the Wilson with me comes the Manches- ter, and the Crescent. These last two named are both pistillates, and need some perfect- flowering variety among them in order that they may do their best, or even fairly well. I have u=ed the Wilson as a fertilizer by setting about one-third of the plants of this variety. Novfllties. In my opinion, the slower you go upon them the bet tter it will be for .vour peace of mind. Let the professional growers test them thoroughly, and when any good variety is pro- duced, the public will soon be made acquainted with the fact, and you will be less likel.y to waste both your time and mone.v. For Wilson mark the rows not less than three feet apart, and then set the plants 12 or 1.5 inches apart in the rows. In setting be sure to press the earth firmly about the roots of the plants, and if the weather is dry, give them a thorough watering. If you set Crescent, Warfield No. 2, or any other of these very strong growers, make the rows four feet apart, and set the plants 18 inches apart in the rows. Keep down all weeds and grass by culti- vation, and go through them when in bloom and clip off all the blossoms so as to throw the en- tire growth into the plant liuring the whole of the first season. .After the ground is frozen in the fall go over them with marsh hay and cover sufficiently to hide all the leaves, and lea\e them until spring. Straw is equally good for covering if it has no foul seeds to grow and choke the plants in the spring. A New Bed Every Spring. I flnd it better, and quite as cheap, to set a new bed every spring, as the weeds and grass will come up and annoy you in the old bed; and even if .you succeed in keeping them down for two or three years, the fruit is not quite as fine nor the yield as large as the first .vear. In selecting plants for setting I make it an invariable rule, never to set 36 POPULAR GARDENING. November, plants that have borne fruit. Be sure to have young and thrifty plants of the last season's growth, and do not set any others even if they are given to you.. Leave the covering on in the spring, until all danger of hard freezing is past, and the young leaves are beginning to start. Then the fruit will not be damaged by late frosts. It will be two or three days late in ripening, but the crop is almost a certainty. After taking off the covering 1 put on a dressing of fine manure, or what I like better, wood ashes, at the rate of half a bushel to the square rod, keep down the weeds, and in June or July, pick a fine crop of this queen of all the small fruits. Raspherries. Give them the same kind of soil as the Strawberries, and the same kind of prepa- ration. For varieties, I like the Marlboro for the first early red, and the Cuthbert for the late red; the first named is with me a large and beautiful berry, and begins to ripen before the Straw- berries are gone. The Cuthbert is a large late berry, excellent in quality and very productive. Among the blackcaps the Souhegan is nearly as early as the Marlboro, a good bearer, and of good quality; the Gregg is a large late berry, and with me a great bearer of fine fruit. If you wish a few yellow ones take the Golden Queen. The above named will give a good supply of choice fruit from the beginning to the end of the Raspberry season. In setting, the ground should be furrowed, making the rows not less than seven feet apart; then set the plants two feet apart in the rows, press the earth firmly around the roots, and water, if the weather is dry. I always grow some other crop between the rows the first season. Winter Protection, in the fall, and before the ground freezes, they should be laid down and covered with earth. In covering, one man takes a hoe or a common four-tined Potato fork, and digs out some of the earth upon the side of the plant; then another follows and bends the plant over towards that side until it lies nearly flat upon the ground ; another follows and throws a shovelful of earth upon the tips of the plants to hold them in place, after which they are covered about one inch in depth. When danger from freezing is over in the spring, they are un covered and raised up as near their natural posi- tion as convenient and the earth is again replaced where it was taken from in the fall. Then put on a dressing of manure or ashes and cultivate well and thoroughly. All weeds and grass that grow in the rows must, of course, be destroyed with the hoe. You will not get as full a crop the second season, as you will of Strawberries, but you will get some nice fruit As soon as you are done picking the fruit, go through and cut out all the old canes, also the weak ones of the new growth, leaving only a sufficient number to have a good crop of fruit the following season. After this is done we go through with a pair of large shears and cut off the tops, leaving the canes about four feet high. The red varieties propagate by suckers, sur- plus of which must of course be destroyed the same as any other weeds. The blackcaps prop- agate from the tips of their branches. Should you need new sets, go among them in August and bend over some of the branches of the strong thrifty canes, and throw sufficient earth upon the tips to hold them in place, when they will take root, and the following spring will furnish you with nice plants for setting new beds. Blackberries, Their cultivation is similar to that of the Kaspberry. They need the same winter protection, and given in the same way, and if well cared for will last longer than the Itaspberries. During the last five or six years, a great deal has been said and printed of the Dewberr.v, or in other words, the running Black- berry. I have been spending some time and money upon them for a number of years past, and it I had received one dollar per quart for all the berries that we ha\e picked from them, I should still be some money out of pocket. Grapes. The cultivation of Grapes is easy. We set the vines eight feet apart each way. They arc trained upon a trellis, posts being set about l~ feet apart, and smooth wires stretched upon them. We trim them in the fall, cutting the branches of the main canes back to two or three buds each. We then la.v them down and then cover them with earth one to two inches deep, and leave them until we think danger from frost is past. The Concord has long been the Grape for the masses, and is still more generally cultivated than any other variety. Sometimes the season in the northern portion of our state is too short for it to do its best. With me the Moore's Early, Worden, and the Massasoit are all from one week to ten days earlier than the Concord, and the two last named are, in my opinion, much better in quality. I would not advise any one in this state to plant any Grape that is later than the Concord in ripening. Ctirrants, These are northern fruit, which abso- lutely refuses to do its best in a southern climate. There is no fruit grown with us, that will bear as much neglect or that will respond more quickly to first-rate care and cultivation. It is the only one of our garden fruits that will en- dure our most severe winters, and come out in the spring without a damaged bud. We set the bushes six feet apart each way, manure heavily, cultivate thoroughly and always secure a heavy crop. For table use, it is doubtful if there are any better varieties than the old red and white Dutch. For other purposes, my wife thinks she has never used any that were equal to the Prince Albert and the Long Bunch Holland. They are much larger than the last named, and with me yield a much larger crop. We let from four to eight canes grow in a stool, and after the.y have borne a few years we cut them out and allow the strong young canes to take their place. In this manner they may be kept in full bearing for many years. To destroy the Currant Worm. We use White Helebore, putting about half a tablespoonful into a ten-quart pail of water, and then sprinkle on a sufficient quantity to fairly wet the leaves. Its use will not injure the fruit in any manner or those who use it. Easter Trade and How to Prepare For It. {Extract from paper by Jaines Dean^read at the Bos- ton convention of the Society of American Florists.) Twenty years ago we had no Easter trade worth speaking of, but the Easter of to-day might well be called a festival of flowers. At that time we grew a few small plants of Azaleas, Lilium Longiflorums, Roses, mostly Plan tiers, Spiraea, Deutziaand some Hyacinths. For a few years the increase in Easter plants was very slight. From 1S78 until 1888 the demand for flowers and plants increased rapidly, some years exceeding the supply. For the past two years I have not noticed any increase in the Easter trade of New York City. It may be because there are more plants and flowers grown. None of the New York City florists had any difficulty in supplying themselves at reasonable prices with all the plants and flowers that their business required. Outside of New York and Philadelphia, the increase of Easter trade will probably continue for some years to come, especially in the smaller cities. There are a few questions which every florist interested in the growing of plants and flowers for Easter should answer for himself. 1st. Is there a paying market in your vicinity for Easter plants in excess of last Easter? 2d. To what extent would the market warrant the increase in the output of plants and flowers? 3d. What varieties can be grown and sold at a profit? 4th. The shipping of Easter plants to a dis- tance when in full flower is expensive and risky, and the grower will have to depend largely on a home market. The Easter Lily I place at the head of Easter plants, and under that head I include both Longi- florum and Harrisii. Fully three-quarters of all the forced Lilies are Harrisii. It flowers more freely than the Longiflorum, and the flowers are not liable to become blind. It can be forced at a higher temperature than the Longiflorum. If the plants are removed to a temperature of 50 degrees at night, and given air during the day two weeks before the flowers open, they will be just as Arm as the Longiflorum, and nearly double the number of flowers can be cut. Most of the Lily bulbs come from Bermuda, during July and August. At that time they are potted in a light sandy loam, one-third of which is well-rotted manure, using live and one-half and six inch pots for the five to seven inch bulbs; a si.v and one-half and seven inch pot for the seven to nine inch bulbs, and a seven and eight inch pot for the nine to twelve inch bulbs. Pot the bulb one-inch deep. Then set them close together in a frame, give a good watering and cover with hay or straw to prevent the soil from drying out rapidly. They can remain out until frost, although a degree or two of frost will not injure the plants. Until New Yearsanight tem- perature of 40 degrees to .50 degrees, with plenty of air during the day, is all they require. After New Years they may be removed or the night temperature increased to fiO degrees or 65 degrees, and even 70 degrees if there is little sunshine. Try to have the flower buds well above the foliage six weeks before Easter. Bear in mind that it is better to hold the flowers back by shading and giving plenty of air, which hardens and stiffens them, and enables them to bear transportation better than to hurry them into flower by steaming the pipes and watering them with warm water. Lender such treatment they are fit for the rubbish heap only. Before delivery cover each flower and bud separately with fine tissue paper, cut into squares of ten inches. Although it takes a great deal of time, wefinditfpays to wrap plants, for we have no flowers damaged in transportation. Azalea Forcing. The Azalea is second on the list of Easter plants. It is a decided favorite for decoration. The Azaleas we force come from Ghent in Belgium during October. They do not always arrive in such a condition that they can be used the same season, often dropping their foliage and flower buds, then they have to be grown another year. The successful Easter grower never depends upon his last importation of Azaleas for his next Easter ti-ade; but carries one year's stock of plants ahead. The-Azalea during the winter, until eight weeks before Easter, can be kept at night at 40 degrees with plenty of air during the day. If Easter comes in March 55 degrees will answer at night; if Easter comes in April .50 degrees will be enough. Set some of the late varieties such as Souv. De Prince Albert, Louisa Pynaert, Leonie Van Houtte and Souv. De Prince Albert alba, into heat two weeks earlier. Do not stand Azaleas under a shade tree during the summer and expect them to flower the following winter. Give them open sunshine. Plunge or plant them in a frame where you have grown Pansies. The Azalea delights in a loose, light soil. Mulch, but do not use manure, as it would injure, if not kill the plants. Syringe to keep down red spider. Treated thus they will make a good growth and mature their flower buds when wanted. Be care- ful that the Azaleas are housed before frost, as that would injure the flower buds. The Hydrangea is a close second on the list. Thomas Hogg is an old favorite with us, with its many clusters of pure white flowers. Hydrangea rosea, beautiful rose color, with the f reeness of its flowers will always be a market variety. By mixing iron filings with the soil during the sum- mer, and watering with alum water when potted, you can change the color of the flowers of Otaksa to a blue. The Hydrangea is easily grown from cuttings. One struck in March, planted out before the firstof May in rich soil and mulched and watered regularly, will by October make a plant fit to go into a seven or eight inch pot. Do not pinch or top the Hydrangeas after the middle of June that are wanted for Easter forcing. Secure the Hydrangea against frost, as it is liable to injure the flower bud. I lift mine by the 10th of October, pot them in good rich soil and place them until New Y'^ears in a cold frame, giving air during the day and protecting them at night from frost. They are brought into the green- house at New Years and given a temperature of BO degrees at night with air during the day, then increase the temperature to 65 degrees at night with little air during the day, until the flowers begin to color. Then gradually give them more air during the day and reduce the temperature at night, this will give a bright color to your flowers and hardy plants The Hj'drangea and Plantier Rose if grown in a warm tempei'ature and exposed without being hardened will wilt. The Hydrangea when in growth requires plenty of watering and an occasional watering of liquid manure. The Genista or Cytisas comes next to the Hydrangea as an Easter plant. Two varieties are grown. Genista Canariensis is best grown in its natural state and suited for large plant decorations. Genista racemosus is better adapted tor small plants and stands trimming well. The flowers are a little larger and a deeper yellow than Canariensis. Cuttings grow freely in a light soil to which has been added some well-rotted manure. Shifted as they require they soon make salable plants, but be careful not to over- pot. Do not plant the Genista in the open ground during the summer as they lift poorly, often losing their foliage. Plunge and mulch 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 37 the plants during the summer and see that they are not allowed to dry. They can be brought in the latter part of Oetober. Tliey will require very little forcing for Easter. Until the first of February 40 to 4.'> degrees at night with plenty of air during the day will be sufficient. Then the temperature can be increased to 50 degrees at night and less air du ring the day. From the first of Fcbruarj- they will need plenty of water and one or two doses of weak manure water. The above four varieties find the readiest sale at Easter in New York. Other plants largely grown, are the Spiraea, Deutzia, ('alias, Roses, Rhododendrons and Geraniums. A large num- ber of Dutch Hyacinths and Tulips, mostly double. Narcissus and Valley are grown for Easter. I shall only speak of the cultivation of the Valley in pots Plant 15 pips in a five inch pot !jl days before Easter, and place in the dark in a warm greenho\ise lor two weeks. At that time give bench and light and air, which will give the foliage its natural color and harden the flowers. It is in great demand and can be sold at a handsome profit. Palms and other foliage plants that are not grown especially for Easter are much used then. Grow only the ipiantity of plants that you can dispose of at Easter at a profit. If Easter comes early, afterwards it will be almost impossible to sell Azaleas, Hydrangeas and the like. After New Years the grower with Easter plants to force, will often have plants with enough flowers to make him hesitate to throw them out; he may reason that there is time to finish cutting the crop, and by extra firing he will have his plants for Easter, but does he count the cost of extra fuel? Or the danger of getting late with his plants, or the injury his plants receive by high temperature to get them in time? Hely on your own judgment in forcing plants. At New Yeai-s is the time we generally start to force for Easter, If the house has a southern exposure, less time will be reciuired than if the house is situated so that it catches the sun for only a short time during the day. CONDENSED GLEANINGS. Arrangement of Oreenhonse. In the nursery of M. A. D'Haene, of Ghent, may be seen a new arrangement of the staging, which is worth notice. On each side of the path, which divides the house longitudinally into two equal parts, there is placed a propagating-case, devoted to the propagation and germination of plants, and covered by lights which can be pushed away when necessary. Above these cases is an arrangement of stages, on which plants may be placed ; these stages are also on rollers, and may A NEW ARRANGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE. be moved aside when it is necessary to work at the case beneath, or when the plants upon them have to be changed. Behind these stages, the glass side of the house, three feet deep, permits the entrance of sulBcient sunlight to the frame, so that cuttings can be taken ; and seeds, especially those of Palms, may germinate. The results which the inventor of this system has obtained so far are most satisfactory. At the top of the house, the small beams are strength- ened by horizontal iron bars,from which Orchids, Nepenthes, etc., may be hung; in a word, there are, as it were, three tiers, one devoted to the germination and propagation of seeds and plants, another for growing plants, and lastly one for specimens which require to be suspended in baskets or little wooden rafts. The illustration shows this convenient arrangement — G'rsChron. A Sponge Garden. People may have a min- iature garden b.v sowing seeds on a sponge. Fill the sponge full of seed of Canary, Hemp, Grass, or other seed. Even the common Mustard seed will grow quickly and last for a time. Then set in a shallow plate or fancy dish comporting with the character of the room. Pour water into the dish until absorbed by the sponge, a por- tion always remaining at the bottom of the dish to prevent drying out of the sponge. The seeds will begin to sprout in a short time. Mustard will grow quickest of all. In the early stages of growth a pretty good share of light may be given, but afterward, when in full growth it may be set on the table or suspended by strings. At no time must the sponge be allowed to get dry. Carrots and other roots can also be made to do duty as hanging plants by suspend- ing them by means of strings. The crown part only of a good strong plant is needed. If suspended, crown down, the new growth will take an upward course, and pretty soon cover all the old part of the root. This is not a very extensive system of gardening, but there are places were about all that can be enjoyed is something of this sort, and children are interested in this kind of experiment. — Prairie Farmer, Are Pitcher Plants Carnivoroas? Of late years it has been assumed by botamsts that the pitchers of Nepenthes acted in the same way that the stomach of an animal does when it comes in contact with food ; that is to say,. that a ferment was produced which effected the solution of the entrapped insects, and rendered its absorption possible. By availing himself of the researches of M. Pasteur and others, M. Raphael Dubois arrives at the conclusion that : 1. The liquid contained in the pitchers of Nepen- thes contains no digestive juice comparable to pepsine, and that the Nepenthes are not car- nivorous 2. That the phenomena of disaggre- gation or mock-digestion observed b.v Sir Joseph Hooker were due to the action of bacteria, in- troduced from without, and not to a secretion from the plant. Of what use, therefore, are the pitchers? and what is the meaning of the fluid they contain ?— Gardeners' Chronicle. Ferns for the House, I hope plant lovers will turn their attention to Ferns for the house. Our small conservatory looked so bare when the Geraniums, Fuchsias and Callas were carried out, that we dug lots of Ferns in the woods, potted them and they grew beautifully. Ferns can grow when the house is dark and the hot sun is shut out. We had nice ones in the front hall and in north windows. It is said they make rooms cooler in hot days, especially if they are well showered. My glass case is made of three old window frames, each with a single pane of glass, with end pieces fitted in, and it is put over a zinc tray that has pieces of broken crocks in the bottom and sifted sand on top. I have three Florida Ferns that have done well, Lycopodium and several Begonias. The best of it is, you have a lovely thing for the sunless window, and hardlj' have to raise the lid all winter.— Sister Gracious in Vick's Magazine. Curl of the Leaf in Peaches. Some of the journals speak of this disease as a malady for which there is no remedy. The prevention and cure, which we have obser\'ed for many years as elBcacious, is the thrifty growth of the tree. Young trees, and those which stand in rich or well cultivated soil, are less severely attacked with the disease, and they more speedily recover their healthy foliage. On the other hand, old trees which stand in grass and have a feeble growth, not unfrequently lose all their foliage and do not recover. Judicious pruning will often favor increased growth, if done before the buds open. The efficacy of vigor is shown by the fact that during warm days early in the season the disease does not prevail to such extent as in cold chilly weather, when its worst development is seen.— Country Gentleman. Repairing Qreenhouse Benches. Many florists frequently have benches which they dislike to pull down, and which they are still doubtful about leaving, on account of danger of the boards breaking through. If the posts and supports are sound, such benches can often be made to last another season by removing the sand or earth from them and covering with heavy tarred paper, after which the sand or earth can be replacetl. Should a particularly weak spot be noticed, a i>iece of thin board or slate can be placed over the tarred pav>er to strengthen that particular spot. Do not, how- ever,^se tar or tarred i)aper in any situation where the heating piiies could melt the tar as the gas would be injurious to plants.— H. W. Hales in Florists' Exchange. Borticnlture vs. Intemperance. One of the most thrifty flower gardens in the suburbs is that attached to the Massachusetts Home for In- temperate Women. Mrs. Charpiot has a garden full of old-fashioned flowers in luxuriant bloom. Cacti from New Mexico, and a pretty grove of Mulberry trees, planted last spring. In the vegetable garden there are Potatoes, Tomatoes, Corn, Beans, Squash. A half-dozen handsome THE ROSS CHAMPION PRUNER. Pekin ducks are very much admired. Mrs. Charpiot is never absent from her post of duty, and while others are rusticating, she rescues poor broken lives and goes forward to the top of her ambition, which is to make this home self- supporting.— Boston Ti-anscript. A Chance for the " Novelty " Makers. Prof. Bailey recently showed the writer a curious instance of the peculiarities of grafting. A Tomato vine had been grafted on a Potato stalk. The Tomato vine was bearing fruit, and prob- ably the Potato plant will develop tubers. What a great chance here for some of our benevolent plant sellers ! Let them advertise a " wonderful discovery," and tell people how to grow Toma- toes and Potatoes on the same plant without fear of bugs or blight. Thousands of people would pay well for the ** great secret." Do you not believe it?— Rural New Yorker. Tuberoses Growing Single- About a dozen years ago, I planted out upwards of a thousand Tuberoses in our greenhouse benches; as they started to grow, we found they were too thick, and we took out half of them and transplanted on the same bench. F.very bulb of those that were left undisturbed came double, while every plant which we had transplanted, and which had suffered some wilting in the operation, came single. This was proof beyond any question that the check in growth induced the flowers to become single.— Peter Henderson in Am.Garden. Driving Nails into Trees, I protest against the thoughtless practice of spoiling good timt)er by nailing fence rails to trees. I have often seen much waste of wood and damage to saws, and loss of time in extracting the nails before sawing could again be proceeded with. The reply of men when remonstrated with, often is that it will not fall to their lot to use the timber. This is very likely true; but if the workmen are uncon- cerned, it is necessary that someone should see to it. It only takes a few moments longer to drive in a stake.— English Exchange. A Budding Machine- W. H. Rowell, of Fort Meade, has invented a budding machine. Being " loaded " with a bud, plow under the bark and a pull on the trigger drives the bud in, and leaves it in proper position for binding, Mr. Rowell claims that 13,000 buds can be inserted in a day with his budder, and that a child can learn the use of it in fifteen minutes. This implement is in some respects like a seed dropper. The part that holds and inserts the bud is made of differ- ent sizes or numbers, adapted to the different sizes of buds and stocks.— Florida Agriculturist. Planting Trees in Autumn. In fall planting there is one element of injury which spring planting escapes, and that is the chance of draw- ing out by frost. If the soil be anyway wet where trees are to be set out, it will be far the best to defer the work till spring. So if the trees are small, unless very well protected by having earth drawn up about them and excessive moist- ure diverted from them, they are very likely to be lifted and injured considerably. The larger and hardier trees may be safely planted.— Ger- mantown Telegraph. 38 POPULAR GARDENING. November, A Welcome Accident. It seems that the Bor- deaux mixture, which is coming to the rescue of (fardeuers as a destroyer of rot, mildew and blight, was first used in the vineyards near Bor- deaux to Iseep off thieves. The outer rows of some vineyards were sprayed in order to render the berries distasteful to marauders. After a while it was noticed that these sprayed rows did not suffer from mildew, while the inner, un- sprayed rows suffered badly. While the Bordeaux mixture will be the basis of the cheap funjricides, it is probable, however, that it is gradually being modified into simpler and moi-e convenient for- mulas of copper solutions. Swini^inf; Around the £zhibiton Circle. An English contemporary comes out against the " pot-hunter " or professional exhibitor " for money only," who takes some fine plants from one exhibit to another, and carries off all the best of the prizes. This may be a good speculation on the part of the individual in question, but it is not horticulture. To assume that local horti- culture is benefited when a peripatetic exhibitor comes with his well-hawked products and carries off the lion's share of the prize money Is too utterly absurd to warrant a single moment's consideration. The Pomelo in Tlorida. Floridians believe that there is a prosperous future for the Pomelo as a summer fruit. It varies in acidity. In most varieties the acid becomes agreeably mild in May, but in many instances it remains strong until midsummer, so that by proper selection and management good fruit can undoubtedly be had all through the hot season. In the^middle of July some fine fruit appeared in the Jackson- ville market and sold there at ten cents apiece — Garden and Forest. Camphor for Destroying Slugs. For about three years I have been trying various things to destroy the slugs: lime, wood ashes, alum, etc., but I have found nothing equal to camphor broken into the size of a Pea, and thrown among the plants. The next day the slugs will be found dead. I have been using it for Adiantums and Dracfpnas, and it has not destroyed a single leaf, but before using it among other plants a trial ought to be made with a few first.— G.A.L., in London Garden. Making the Artillery Plant Shoot. I have been producing the discharge by syringing plants when the sun is shining on them brightly. The plants are well budded, and this slight showering causes the flowers to burst open, and the anthers shoot their pollen in every direction in the most interesting manner. Our common wild Nettle (Uiiica praci!!?!, with which the Ar- tillery plant is closely allied, often behaves in the some manner.— L. H. Bailey, in Am. Garden. Staking Trees. No trees should be set out that require staking. If the roots are cut short and the tree has a heavy top, it will require a stake, and it will meet with such a cheek in digging as to need years to recover its full vigor. But a tree of moderate size, with long ample spreading roots, which will hold it firmly without staking, will receive but a slight check, and will outgrow a larger tree which may much exceed it in size. Country Gentleman. Profitable Gardening. H. E. Lyon of Vermont is making a specialty of market gardening on the shores of Lake Willoughby. His three to five acres of truck yearly pay him on an aver- age $100 per acre. This is much better than common farming. He now has 3000 Cabbages, 214 tons of Squash, besides large quantities of Turnips, C^arrots, Beets, Tomatoes, etc.— N.E.F'r. Good Examples Infections. In recent years, Boston has been extremely liberal in the decora- tion of its public grounds and parks, and the example thus set has led private citizens to de- vote more time and money to the cultivation of rare and beautiful plants than ever before. The display that they made this year was exception- ally fine.- Phila. Ledger. Plant Peach Trees. Save the pits of the best Peaches and plant them this fall a couple of inches deep. You will have little trees next year— and these little trees will, many of them, bear in three years. Generally, too, they will be strongerand healthier than nursery stock. R.N. Y. Celery for Florida. The Golden Self Blanching and the Whit« Plume have never given satisfac- tion in Florida. Crawford's Half-Dwarf and Wilson's Kalamazoo are good.— Florida Farmer and Fruit Grower. Oaltivation vs. Suckers. Plants that propagat* from suckers should always be planted where the grower can cultivate all around them, never against a fence or in a corner. Otherwise you will have a be- wildering thicket and a poor crop of fruit.— California Fruit Grower. Effects of Salt. In some ninety species of plants growing both on the coast and In the Interior of France M. Pierre Lesafie has found that proximity to the sea causes a thickening of the leaves. Artificially salted soil produces the same result Am. Cultivator. California Fruit Trade. There are over 1.300 cars built expressly for the fruit trade engaged in carrying California fruits to the east, besides many others which have been pressed Into the service.- Mlcb.Far'r. Silent Endorsement. There is altogether too much reverence for rascals and for rascally methods, on the part of tolerably decent people.— Century Magazine. The decline of Agricultnre— a boy's refusal to re- main on his father's farm.— Texas Sittings. Put an nmbrella over your barn-yard. -R. N. Y. Vegetable Products on the Table. Barberry Jelly. Barberries make an excellent jelly of a peculiar, appetizing flavor. The juice, after measuring, should be cooked a half hour at least, and care should be taken that it is cooked long enough to make a firm jelly before the sugar is added. Use a pint of sugar to a pint of juice.— Mrs. Green. Freserving Eggs. A simple packing in dry salt or immersion in lime water has proved more successful than the more elaborate ways or com- pound mixtures. A good method is as follows: For thirty dozen of eggs or less dissolve a coffee- cupful of quicklime in hot water, and add a handful of salt, with water enough to cover. Citron Preserves. Pare off the outer skin, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and cut each half into small pieces. Put in a large jar and cover with salt and water, and let stand six or eight hours. Drain and cover with fresh, cold water; change every two hours until the Citron is fresh- ened. Make a syrup of a pound of sugar, and a teacup of water for each pound of fruit; boil and skim; when clear, put in Citron, and simmer gently until tender; then lift from the syrup on a perforated spoon, lay on large dishes and set in the sun to harden. Add the juice of two or three Lemons and the rind of one to the syrup and boil. When the Citron is dry, put in jars, bring the syrup to a boil again, and pour over the Citron. Watermelon rinds may be preserved in the same way, and are equally as good. Quince Preserves. Select large ripe Quinces Wash and wipe thera. Pare, core and cut into slices, or quarters. Throw each piece as finished in water to prevent discoloration. When you have enough, put them in and cover with boiling water. Simmer gently until tender. When ten- der, lift carefully with a skimmer and slide on flat dishes. Continue boiling the Quinces in the same water until all are cooked. Put the parings and rough pieces into the same water after the Quinces are cooked, and simmer icently one hour, keeping closely covered all the time; then strain and measure, and to every pint of this liquid allow one pound of sugar. Stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, bring quickly to a boil, boil rapidly ten minutes, skimming as the scum comes to the surface. Now put in the Quinces, and boil until they are clear, tender and red. If you wish them bright colored, keep the kettle closely covered while the Quinces are in. When done lift gently into glasses or jars, gi^e the syrup another boil until it jellies, pour it over the Quinces, and stand aside to cool. When cold tie up.— Canning and Preserving. Crab Apple Jelly. Cook the Crab Apples in a porcelain or granite kettle, never in iron or tin. Add just water enough to show through them but not enough to cover thera. Cover the pre- serving kettle closely. Cook slowly just below the boiling point for several hours, or until upon tasting you find that all the flavor has left the Apple; the color should also be all extracted, but the tiny quarters should not be broken. This careful cooking prevents the jelly from becom- ing cloudy. A jelly bag may be made from flannel, coarse crash or cheese cloth, but the latter is best. Tie the bag and let the contents drip, but never be tempted to squeeze it; nor is it economy to make a second rate jelly of what may be squeezed out of the bag after the first dripping of clear juice. Strain the juice care- fully, measure it and put on to boil, allowing it to cook until little wrinkles come upon the sur- face, which has, of course, been carefully and repeatedly skimmed. The time for boiling varies with the kind and quality of fruit used. Crab Apple juice might need twenty minutes or a little more. HOUSE PLANTS. Ardisia Is a good house plant. Kept In a cool tem- perature of from 45 to 55 degrees, the showy red berries remain from one fruiting season to another. Guard against freezing. Begonias for winter bloom should have plenty of water and light. Box. If divided and reset before winter, the plants should be planted deeply and well firmed. Cactuses to be allowed to rest until February or March. Little water is required, Keep on window shelves or tables. A glass case may be covered over delicate specimens. Callas now well started toward the blooming period should have plenty of light, room and water. Manure water may also be given in liberal doses. Such treat- ment will induce stocky growth and fine flowers later. Carnations. Keep near the glass In a cool and airy place. Soil should be moist, not wet. Cultines as soon as they show roots should be potted. Ferneries. Soil should be light and well drained. Ferns, Lycopodlujus and all molsture-loving plants may be selected for the Fernery, with a few flowering bulbs to add brightness and color. Guard against crowding. Give air, and do not fear iU-efCects from a little sunshine. Freesias should be started at Intervals for succes- sion. Give more water as growth advances. Forget-me-nots. Lift good clumps and put In six inch pots; then store in cold pit until the holidays, when they may be brought into heat. This treatment will insure good flowers. General Management. The entire stock should be given an occasional cleaning. Dust and impurities on leaves and stems may be sponged oft daily. Avoid extremes of temperature, 45 to GO degrees zt night being about light. Prune freely all soft-wooded plants that were lifted, to promote health and beauty. Remove yellow leaves and old flower stems. Bulbs of all kinds for the window may still be planted. Habrolhamnus elegans makes a fine free-flowering window plant if kept down by judicious pinching. Hydrangeas (o be kept dormant in the cellar. Give but little water. Mignonette. Ten-Week-Stock, eto., to be sown at once if desired for winter and spring decoration. Mirahilis. Store some of the roots in dry sand out of reach of frost for use another season. Oleanders to be stored in cellar. Water is often given too often and In too small doses. The soil should not be kept soaking all the time, nor dust dry. We must try to find the happy medium. When you water, water thoroughly, so to reach every particle of soil in the pot ; then not water again, until the moisture is nearly all gone. Sprinkling the plant and surface of the soil every day, without letting the moisture reach down to the roots, where the soil may be quite dry right along, is not the proper thing. LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN. Bulbs may still be planted, and until the ground freezes solid ; but the beds should be given winter protection by a good coat of litter. Cleaning the grounds generally Is now In order. Remove rubbish and dead plants; apply manure, work over the beds. Grading, making drives and walks, laying drains. etc., is also in order. If done now, the groimd will have a chance to settle during winter. Lawn. No further mowing is needed or advisable. Where land and grass is thin, a good top dressing of fine compost will make considerable improvement. New rank manure has no place on the lawn In any case. Under ordinary circumstances, a light dressing of boue dust, and guano, perhaps of wood ashes also, will be the cheapest and best. Leaves should be raked together, best In some de- pression, covered with brush or other material to keep them from being blown away, and left there to rot. Or they may be gathered, and taken to the bam, stables, henhouse, etc., and used as bedding. At any rate they will make a good mulch and manure. Mahonia and other large-leaved Evergreen shrubs are liable to sun scald and Injury by wind. A screen made of evergreen boughs set up on the windward and sunny sides, and secured by strings, etc., will be a good protection. Mulching. The best thing to be done for shrubbery beds at this time Is to cover them with a mulch of leaves, kept down by coarser material If necessary such as evergreen boughs. The leaves may be left on to be turned under and furnish welcome plant food. 1890. POPULAR GARDENING. 39 Roses and similar shrubs to be protected by laying down or otherwise. Mulch the roots. Supports, such as plant stakes, etc., should be care- fully gathered and stored under shelter for next year. Tree Guards. Trees in streets and on the lawn are subject to injury by animals, and as they have con- siderable value, should be protected by some sort of guard. Wire screen may be used for this purpose. Another simple way is to set three small stakes around each tree, and wind barbed wire around them. PLANT CULTURE UNDER GLASS. Achimenes. A temperature of Su*' and a dry place will now suit them. Amaryllis. Keep quite dry, especially the deciduous kinds. The evergreen sorts need only water enough to keep leaves from drying. Azaleas. Keep the old plants nowat rest, moder- ately dry and cool. Young plants for early blooming need strong heat. Cinerarias. Give a light place, and air frequently when practicable. Temperature not to go above 45"^. For blooming in January, give to the plants grown from seed In June, the final shift. Cyclamens, in bloom, may be given occasional doses of liquid manure. Keep near glass in a temperature of about 50*^. Pot off the seedlings. Dahlia. Tubers of this and similar ones, now cured, to be stored under the benches or in other dry place. Deutzias. Pot the plants to be forced for early spring bloom. Good flowers may be had about two months after bringing into heat. G-eneral Management. Dead leaves, old flower sttdks and diseased or superfluous branches to be re- moved whenever found. Guard against over-watering. Should water stand in the pots for any length of time after watering, look to the drainage. The best thing to be done in such case is to shift into new pots and soil. As there is now but little light, the glass should be kept clean and free from whitewash, or anything else that obstructs the light. To keep off green fly, moist Tobacco stems may be placed upon the soil among the plants. The standard remedy is burning one half pound of Tobacco stems to each 5()0 feet of glass weekly, but steaming Tobacco stems, or keeping Tobacco tea in little troughs on the heating pipes, as described In former Issues, are ju.st as effective, and very simple methods. Greraniums to be kept near the glass andrather dry. Heliotrope. When in bloom, give frequent doses of liquid manure. Hyacinths. The early started ones to be brought to the light and heat just as soon as the pots are filled with roots. Water liberally. Lily of the Valley, for early flowers to be brought Into the heat towards end of month. Lady Washington (Pelargonium). Those that were cut down to be repotted when growth has well started. Reduce the ball of earth to fit it for same-sized or even smaller-sized pots. Poinsettia, also Euphorbia, to be kept near glass and in brisk heat. Encourage growth. Sweet- Pea, Mignonette, Candytuft, and perhaps other hardy annuals may be sown outside for early spring bloom. Tuberoses. See directions for Dahlia. Verbenas. Keep plants from cuttings cool and near the glass, with plenty of air in all suitable weather. Keep off green fly by fumigation with Tobacco stems, or similar means. FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. Blackberries. If to be set in the fall this should be done as soon now as possible. .Set as deep into the ground as the plants grow naturally. Plants grown from root cuttings are best. Lay down the tenderer sorts for winter protection, trimming the canes as needed. Fences around orchards to be repaired where needed. Keep all stock except poultry out of young orchards. Fruit. Carefully save and utilize every bit of fruit you may have. The markets have been crowded with Grapes, because they all seem to ripen late, and many not at all, and the poor stock, and large quantities thrown on the market all at a time, have demoralized the market. Work the local markets niore,aud relieve the city markets. After a while fruit will be scarce. G-rapes. Pruning is now in order. The wood may be used for making cuttings. We prefer two-eye cuttings if long-jointed. These are tied in bundles of 50 each, and buried In sand In the cellar, or in any well-drained spot out-doors. Labels. Examine the labels on young trees. Re- place where lost or illegible. The labels usually found attached to trees coming from the nursery are too frail, to be trusted very long. Use pointed wood labels written on with pencil, and fastened to a strong limb with copper wire, using a large loop so not to choke the limb. Zinc labels, with a long tapering end to be wound around the limb, are also good and serviceable, Mulching Material. Nothing is better than marsh hay for mulching Strawberries. This can be had cheaply and easily In many places. Leaves, Pine boughs, coarse strawy manure will do ; but whatever we use should be free from weed seeds. Orchard trees might now be given a thorough cleaning of their trunks and branches. Wash them with strong soapsuds or weak lie. A good mixture for this purpose is as follows: To one peck of lime, while hot, add one-half gallon crude carbolic acid, one gallon soft soap, and four pounds of sulphur ; stir well. A thorough application of such compound win free the trees from many insects and their eggs, and be a lasting benefit. Prof. Cook recommends one quart of soft soap In a gallon of boiling water, a pint of kerosene, thoroughly stirred In. Planting- Apples and Pear trees may yet be planted, especially In more southern latitudes, where this Is the very best season for the work. It may be well, how- ever, to order at once all trees wanted for this fall's or next spring's planting, heeling in to have them on hand when wanted In spring. Usually you have choice of stock at this time, while late in spring you may have to take what is left. Put a mound about the stems of all newly-planted trees to steady them, and keep off mice, etc. Tins, wire screens or tarred paper wound around the lower part of trees is a cheap and easy protection against mice, and rabbits. Raspberries. The red sorts may yet be planted this fall. For blackcaps we would prefer to wait until spring. Lay down the tenderer sorts, by bending down In line of the row, and covering with soil. Stocks for root-grafting during the winter should now be dug and stored in the cellar. Strawberries. When the beds have frozen, the mult h may be applied, especially between the rows, and lightly over the plants. Tree Seed. Pits and Nuts for growing tree seedlings should be mixed with soil or sand, and left exposed to freezing. VEGETABLE GARDEN. Asparagus. Give the beds a good coat of compost. Beets and Mangels to be stored in pits. For use during winter, part maybe stored In cellar, but they should then be kept covered with sand, soil or turf to keep from wilting. Cabbage to be gathered and stored for winter and spring. A few heads for early winter use may be simply put under a shed, or in the comer of barn. Heads If wrapped In several thicknesses of paper, and hung up by the roots In a cool cellar will keep well for some time. For spring use Cabbages may be pitted almost like roots or Potatoes. Or they may be stood in rows close together, roots up, and outside leaves well wrapped around their heads, and thus covered with soil in ridge form. Carrots to be treated like Beets and Mangels. Celery, where not yet taken care of, should be gathered and stored immediately in localities where heavy frosts may now be expected. The home grower is apt to neglect this until too late. Much good Celery Is left to spoil in this very way. The plants, with roots and but little soil on, may be packed closely Into a narrow trench, and this covered to be safe from rain and frost. Or the plants may be stood upon soil In cellar bottom, or In a box. Keep the roots wet, and tops dry, and they will keep and bleach well. Chicory. Dig plants and store for growing greens in cellar during winter. Onion. Sell the crop If possible now. The outlook Is for high prices in spring, and many wish to store. Keep them dry, cool, and well-aired, and also from ex- posure to very low temperatures, or to repeated freez- ing and thawing. Parsnips. Dig and store in cellar what you may wish to use during winter. Potatoes will be very scarce and high priced. Make sure of good seed for next spring's planting. Store in a cool, dark place where frost will not reach them. Rhubarb. As soon as frost has killed the leaves, rake them off. then plow a furrow aw^ay from each side of the row, with small plow, and fill the furrows with manure. Afterwards plow the furrows back. Roots that need dividing maybe divided and replanted in the fall as well as at any time, and any wanted for forcing in the cellar or the green house should be dug up before the ground freezes, and put under cover of some leaves or litter till wanted for forcing. Spinach. Cover the beds lightly with leaves or coarse litter before winter sets In. Squash to be kept in a dry cool place, out of reach of frost. Turnips to be kept as advised for other root crops. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER CLASS. Asparagus, If plants are wanted for forcing under the greenhouse benches. In pits or hotbeds in early spring, good plants should now be taken up and stored so to be easily accessible in February. Lettuce in forcing pits to be aired freely. If weather continues mild, remove sash entirely until colder. Guard against mildew and green fly. Mushrooms. Beds may now be made under the greenhouse benches, or In warm sheds. .Mix turfy loam with clear horse dung, to secure moderate and lasting heat. Beat flrmly, make beds as large as possible. Avoid extremes of wet and dryness. G-rapes. All early houses should now be cleared of leaves,and the vines be pruned at once. Let the youuR and old wood be well washed with soft soap and warm water, keeping a good look out for scale during the operation. Each scale now destroyed will cause the eggs which are encased In It to be destroyed also. Let all walls receive a coat of hot lime, and the woodwork cleaned down. Clear off all old manure from the borders, also two Inches of the surface soil If possible, and return two inches of good fresh loam ; over this place a mulch of fresh manure four or five Inches thick, re-tle the trees to their trellises and the house will be ready for starting when wanted. Rhubarb, store plants as directed for Asparagus. Strawberries. Plunge the pots to their brims in earth or coal ashes in cold frames. Water sparingly A month later they may be brought in to be forced. Vineries. Vines In early house should be pruned 1 1 once, and the whole house be given a good cleaning with hot water and soft soap, to clear it from eggs of thrips and red spider, also of germs of mildew and other fungi. THE POULTRY YARD Profitable Dacks. If any breed is profitable, it is the Pebin. People who raise them for early market on an extensive scale use no other breed. They develop early, and are most popular in market. As an egg' layer no duck is superior to the Pekin. Altogether this breed is profitable. Bogs and Fowls, l^et the chicks become ac- customed to the watch dosr. Two of our dogs sleep among the chicks in the same house, and all concerned are perfectly happy. A bird dog is more apt to catch chickens than a good Collie, Newfoundland, St. Bex-nhard or Mastitf. Rut even a bird dog can be taught to let them alone. Small Potatoes cooked, and Onions sliced in, as recommended by friend Boyer, may do very well in place of a part of grain ration, but we think it will be cheaper to depend on Western Wheat, Corn, and perhaps Buckwheat. Even the small Onions will bring a good price this year, and as for Potatoes, many people would be glad to have even small ones to eat. Early Eggs. The early pullets should now commence to lay. Give stimulating food, es- pecially meat and broken bones several times a week, also broken oyster-shell if obtainable. By changing feed, giving Wheat in the morning, Oats at noon, and a little Corn at night, the poultry keeper will seldom fail to get a liberal supply of eggs. Our Langshans, thus treated, frequently lay through the moulting season. Langshans in the Harket> New York com- mission men now accept the Langshan as both a broiler and market fowl. Notwithstanding that it dresses a white skin, those that have ever had the pleasure of testing it« table qualities, piefer the meat to all others. Now that the breed is gaining favor in markets it will have another good substantial boom. It is also one of the best winter layers, if not the best which makes it a valuable farmer's bird. Crossed upon most any other breed it adds untold value.— German- town Telegraph. Packing Eggs for Winter. Take a keg or small wooden box, and cover the bottom about an inch deep with salt. Place the eggs on this, small end down, and add more salt until the spaces between the eggs are all filled, and the eggs are well covered. Proceed thus until the keg is filled, keeping it in a cool dry place. The eggs must be fresh and clean^ and if you have been careful to pack them well, using only fresh ones they will not disay^point you. Use common barrel salt, and after the eggs are used, the salt is good enough for stock.— Orange Judd Farmer. The Poultry House. Now the windows should be put in and everything made tight and snug. Our hardier breeds, the Langshans, Brahmas, Cochins, Plymouth Kocks, etc., can stand con- siderable cold weather, even if roosting in trees outdoors, but they can not stand a damp house, nor a draughty roosting place. Good ventilation is essential, but there should be no direct draught over the perches. A knot hole through which the piercing winter winds can blow directly upon the roosting fowls, may do them a great deal of injury, and bring on roup and other diseases. Make a very thorough examination of the house, and stop up all holes and cracks. Ten cents worth of kerosene, mow squirted over the perches, nests and sides of the bouse will insure the fowls' safety from lice and mites almost during the entire winter. This precaution is one not to be neglected. Requisites for Winter. We have found it a good practice to give the poultry house a good cleaning-out before winter, and then put a load or two of muck, sand or fine gravel, road dust or woods' earth upon the floor and under the perches. This not only keeps the floor sweet and clean, but also furnishes good material for the bens to scratch in during winter. A tew basket- fuls, or even a wagon load, of dry forest leaves scattered over the floor upon the muck, etc., is also serviceable to maintain cleanliness, as an addition to the manure and for other purposes. Fowls, to do well need exercise like other beings. The grain may be scattered among the dry leaves, especially early in the morning, and the fowls will be kept busy scratching for a long time. We also like to give Oats in the bundle, for the very purpose of giving our fowls some- thing to do ; and part of the Corn is given on the cob with the same end in view. Among other important requisites is one or more fountains that can be kept supplied with clean water, and this as little subject to freezing as possible. 40 POPULAR GARDENING. November, CorreDporutenta are urged to anticipate the season in prr- aentina queationa. To aak, for instance, on April 16 or 20 u>h€it Peaa had beat be aotcn, could brino no answer in the May issue, and none be/ore June, when the answer vsyuld heunaeaaonable. Que stiona received before the lith of any month stand a good ohance of being answered in the next paper. Not more than three quest ion a should be sent at one time. Anawera to questions bearing on the com- parative t^lue of implements, etc.. offered by different dealers must not oe expected. Seither can we promise to oomply toith the reoitest sometimes made to "please answer by matt." Inquii^ua appearing without name belong to the name next fotlotcing. Replies to Inquiries are eameatly requested from our readers . In anat^ring such give the number, your looality and name, the latter not for publication, unless you desire. Write only on one side of the paper. 2.054. Hoya as Tree. Can Hoya carnosa be trained in tree form and bloom well? 2.055. Transplanting Hybrid Perpetual Roses. Can this be done in the fall, If proiection is given them and In early winterV— Mks. M. A. H. 2.056. Celery Leaf Blight. Do you know of any simple means of preventing It?— G. S. F. 2.(67. Chrysanthemum Leaves Dying. Lower leaves turn black and drop off. What Is the cause, also the remedy, if any?— H. C, Jrotito7i, O. 2,05S. Remedy for Plum Rot. Nine-tenths of all my Plums rotted the wasps took the rest. How can this be stopped?— F. W. S.. West Roj^bur}/, Mass. 2.059. Reliable Commission Men in Eastern Cities. Please give name and address of reliable party in New York, Philadelphia and Boston?— G. H. B. & Son, Ills. 2.060. Gooseberry Plants from Cuttings. When are cuttings taken off, how planted and how man- aged?—J. P. T., Mass. 2.061. Bodies oi Pear Trees Ailing. I have several trees, the trunks and large limbs are black and appar- ently dying, while the tops are still green. What ails them?— Inquirer. 2.062. Wire Guards for Trees. Can you give ad- dress of party manufacturing or selling wire screen guards to protect young trees agaiust rabbits?- J.W.P, 2.063. Composition of Paris Green. What is it?— F. N. T. 2.(Ht4. Alpine Strawberry Seed. Where can I pro- cure seed of the regular bush varieties, such as do not Increase by runners?— R. W., Clinton. Ills. 2,065. Heating Small Greenhouse ior Forcing. What is the best way of heating?— C .J .S., EdgevUle. la. 2,06H. Hardy Fruits for Northern Illinois. I wish to raise some fruits for the children, but do not luiow which are hardy here. Please give list.— Mrs. E. F. E.. Wtlmettf, nis. 2,Ub7. Grapes for Early Market. Which is the most profitable? Is Moore's Early productive enough to be profitable?— J. F. C, North Topeka, Kans. 2,06a. Garden A^iling. 8oll sandy loam; have potted and fed it liberally^ with stable manure for the past IS years. Have prided myself in having the best garden. Now for two years a portion has acted asif full of plant poison. Seeds germinate poorly and plants struggle tor life. What is the matter?— H. P. M., Plahxjickl. IS J. 2,0^9. Fall Management of Caladiums. The bulb purchased last spring has made a tine plant and I do not wish to lose it. How shall 1 proceed?— W. A. M., Mogadore, Ohio. 2,070. Bug on Japan Anemone. Bug resembles Squash bug, but odorless. Attacks nothing else, but if left alone they would eat down a large plant in a day. What is lt?-G. B. 1).. Va. 2,o7i. American- grown Cauliflower Seed. Has It proved to be as good as the European?— S. F. F. 2.or2. Keeping Cabbage for Spring Sales. Will a good cellar do? Should roots be left on or cut oflf?— J. V. (»,, Indiana. 2.073. Removing Blossoms from Newly Set Straw- berry Plants. Why shoulil It hurt the plants if allowed to bear a little the tlrst season?— P. H. K.. JVis. 2.074. Steaming Bones. Are bones deprived of any of their fertiliziuK qualities by steaming?— S. J. F., W. Va. 2.075. Niagara Grapes Rotting. What Is the cause of their rotting before ilpening? 2.076. Hardy Passion Flower. Huw to be treated during first winter after planting? 2.077. Clematis and Honeysuckle. What care do they require after planting?- J. L J., Brooklyn, N. Y. 2.07S. Cranberry Culture. Please tell me the essen- tial points.- S. T. W. 2,(»7*t. Making Cold Soil Warmer. Sollclayey.with cold atlir clay subsoil, somewhat moist. How can I fit It for the cultivation of vegetables, Corn, etc.?— D. D. L., Ont., Canada. 2.080. Strawberries for Hill Culture. What varie- ties are best for this on sandy loam?— W. E. C, Iowa. 2,0'Sl. Raspberry Tips frcm Old or Young Bushes. Will plants taken from yimng bushes do better than those taken from plants that liave borne fruit for sev- eral years?— B. E. H., Rvadiny Ccnterc, .V. 1'. 2.082. Wintering Verbenas. Is It advisable to lift the old plants from beds and keep over?— S. s. N. 2.083. Raspberry Blight. My second year's growth was badly attacked Just as fruit was forming. Soil rich clay. No variety exempt. Had to dig up all. What Is lt?-R. O. H., Ont. 2.084. Fertilizer for Bearing Grape Vines. What Is best, when and how applied and how much?— W. H. C. P., Ohio. 2.085. Gesnera Species. I enclose flower. Is this a Genera, and if so, what species? 2.086. Melia Azedarach. I have this as " Umbrella Tree." Seems to be not hardy. How can I winter It? Is it an Evergreen? 2.087. Crinam Americanum. Is it hardy? I have lost mine- 2.088. Iris Susiana. Should I give it winter protec- tion?-L. B., New York. 2,039. Strawberry Leaf Roller. This pest has been troubling me for years. How can I best get rid of it?— M.N. O. 2,0&0, Insect on Ampelopsis Veitchii. Leaves look burnt and curled up. On unrolling a leaf find acluster of eggs like Poppy seed, only larger. Quite disfigures the vine. What Is the insect and remedy?— G. B.D., Va. 2.091. Weaver Plum. Please describe its character- istics. Is It any good?— A. B. D., Fa. 2.092. List of Gladioli. Would like to have list of 50 best. Where do you buy your stock?— A Gladiolus Crank, 2.093. Earliest Market Tomato. Which has proved most reliable this season?— J. M. N. 2.094. Wood Ashes for Clay Soil. Are unleached or leached ashes better for small fruits on such soils?— R.S. T. 2.095. Cultivating Huckleberries. Have recent at- tempts to cultivate it been successful? If so. what are the conditions of success?— Home Grower. 2.09fi. Home-Made Fertilizers. Can any great sav- ing in cost be expected from buying unmixed plant food materials, and mixing and preparing them at home? Or is it preferable to buy the prepared hlgh- firiced manures of the fertilizer manufacturer?- NQf isixrvE. 2,097. Parsley in Winter. What is the simplest method of securing a home supply during winter?— G. S.F., Ohio. REPLIES TO INQUIRIES. 2,082. "Wintering Verbenas. We have never thought it paid to keep our old lifted plants, but instead have relied for new stock upon outting-s of young wood put in about October 1st. For successful culture in winter Verbenas require a cool place, plenty of air and light. 2,022. Calla and Amaryllis Propagation. In the case of the Caila take the offsets that form about the main root, and pot them singly in smEill pots, or prick thera into flats of light rich earth. This should be done at the time of over- hauling the roots, summer being the rational season for tbe operation. Where Callas are grown without removing the offsets, some of these will shoot up and soon reach a flowering size, and then the clump may be divided in the summer season of rest, repotting each sepa- rately. To raise Amaryllis from seed is not difficult. The seed should be procured as fresh as possible, then it will come up with vigor if sown in light sandy loam, in jiots kept in a warm place. If the young plants are potted off as soon as they are an inch or two high, and shifted fre- liuently in the course of the growing season, they will reach a flowering size in about a year and a half . The pots in which either Callas or Amaryllis are grown, should be well drained by the use of broken pots laid in the bottom of each. 2,063. Composition of Paris Green. Paris green is arsenite of copper obtained by mixing solu- tions of sulphate of copper with arsenite of soda. It is also known under the the name of Scheele's green.— G. U. 2,08.5. Gesnera Species. But as you enclose corolla and stamens onlj', we cannot determine the species from such scant material.— W. F. 2,086. Uelia Azedarach. It is hardy in the warmer Southern States, but not at all hardy in the north. The typical form is a shade tree and not worth a place in a northern greenhouse, but there are some dwarfer varieties cultivated along the gulf coast and in the West Indies, which, on account of their free-blooming nature and pretty, fragrant, lilac-colored flowers, are well worth and often get a place in our greeuhouscs. When treated as greenhouse plants the dwarf varieties are evergreen; out of doors the trees are deciduous to half deciduous, according to the locality and circumstances under which they are grown.— Wm. Falconer. 2,071. American-Grown Cauliflower Seed> We were again much pleased with the results from such seed. Not only that it is heavy and plump, and hassuperior vitality and germinating powers, but the plants also make as good heads as any foreign seed we ever tried. The variety sent us by Mr. March (Fidalgo, Wash )as American Early iJw arf Erfurt proved especially fine. The intro- ducer promises that he will sell American-grown Caulitiowfir seed at one-half or less of the price usually asked for imported seed With goodseed to start with, good Cauliflnwers are almost as easily grown in many localities as Cabbage: Init such good seed has heretofore been sn high that Cauliflower growing has been almost nut of the questitm witn the average home gardener. We hope seed will be cheaper hereafter.— G. K. 2,088. Iris Susiana is hardy in the Middle States conditionally, but where these favorable conditions and attention cannot be afforded, it is not hardy. Altogether, however, it is better to protect it in winter. It should have a warm, sheltered, open position in winter and spring, and shade from warm sunshine in summer. Like some of our finest Narcissi it starts early into growth, often in fact before winter sets in, and a long, hard winter is sure to prey severely upon any plants that have started prematurely.— Wm. Falconer. 2,087. Grinum Americanum is hardy in tbe Southern States, but not hardy in the north. All plants are hardy where they are indigenous. Some plants, Alpines for instance, are cold hardy and hot tender; tropical plants are hot hardy and cold tender. Horticultural writers, in writing about plants being hardy, mean that the plants are hardy in the writer's locality, be this Mon- treal, New York, Washington or New Orleans, and readers should so understand it, and make allowances accordingly.— Wm. Falconer. 2,061. Bodies of Fear Trees Ailling. This I would not call regular blight, as it begins at the wrong end. It is a different disease, but none the less fatal. That the top and tbe branches of a tree may be green, and the trunk black under the bark, is because the sap ascends up the tree through the wood and comes down between the wood and bark. Hence, so long as the root is not entirely dead, the top is supplied with sap. But when such a tree goes, it does it in a hurry. I had Le Conte trees black from the ground up to the limbs where the Idaho grafts were set, the latter as fresh and green as if nothing had been wrong with the base. But this did not last long, and they had to die.— S. Miller. 2,084. Fertilizer for Bearing Grape Tines. Good compost of course is the old stand by, and may be applied in the usual way, i. c, broadcast all over the ground, to be worked into the soil by ordinary cultivation. Such treatment is es- pecially desirable where the soil is too scantily supplied with nitrogen to make a satisfactory growth of cane. Usually, however, the wood growth is all right, and in such case the mineral elements of plant food, especially potash, are needed much more than nitrogen. We know no better manure than wood ashes. Apply them in fall, winter or early spring, broadcast, at the rate of from one to three tons ner acre, according to the needs of the soil, and the quality of the asnes. Leached ashes might be used to still greater ex- tent or supplemented with some sort of potash. Where wood ashes cannot be had at a reasonable price— say $13 to $14 per ton for best unleached— we would use 800 to 1,000 pounds of bone dust, and 500 pounds of kainit per acre, to be applied in fall or early winter broadcast. In place of kainit 150 or :;00 pounds of muriate of potash may be used. 2.U81. Baspberry Tips from Old or Toung BusheS' For the same reason that we prefer to plant Strawberry plants taken from a young plantation that has never borne fruit, we would also use Raspberry tips from young plants in preference to those grown on old bushes. The largest, best and most vigorous tips, as also the most of them, are usually grown on plant-s set in spring previous and well treated.— G. K. 2,080. Strawberries for Hill Culture. We do not believe in, nor practice, hill culture with any Strawberry variety, unless the "hills" be great clumps of plants to be cultivated both ways. Just as large berries, and many more in number, can be grown by the matted row system than in hills, and the strict single plant system requires more labor and pains tnan we can bestow on the plantation. What have the readers to say on the question of best variety for this system?— G. R. :2,07it. Making Cold Soil Warmer. To render strong clay loam, which is moist and cool, warm and suitablefor the production of general gai'den crops, we should first see that the drainage is perfect. The more drains, and the closer to each other, the better will they serve your purpose. Subsoiling will also assist in this. After the lower strata are properly seen to, the top soil should have attention with a view towards the improvement of its structure. If scantily sup- plied with humus (organic matter), this should be adde