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POULTRY, SEN SE

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-PURSELL,

1800

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Copyright N°

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT:

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POULTRY SENSE
A TREATISE

ON THE
MANAGEMENT AND CARE
OF |

CHICKENS

INCLUDING THE TREATMENT OF THE
MORE COMMON DISEASES

BY

ee PURSELL, M.D.

Ew
mh
eR

‘PUBLISHED BY
DR. JAMES P. PURSELL
“GRAND VIEW"
SELLERSVILLE, PA.

1911

Copyki HTED, 1911, | i

PREEACE

My excuse for writing these few
pages is to relieve some poor
fellow, who may have spare time
on his hands, as I have had.

Living in the country, one is not
afforded the various pastimes and
clubs to run into in leisure hours,
and, as I am of an active nature
and must keep occupied, decided
to keep a few chickens.

Proceeded to buy a few books
on chicken lore; subscribed for a
couple of first-class poultry jour-

nals; soon discovered there were

a vast number of both to be had,
but, after reading them for some
months, found that I was more
confused and mystified than ever.

5

PREFACE

Then I began experimenting,
and thus I can assure you I have
been through the mill.

It is a long story, but I will not
take up your time with such a
tale of woe. It would be like de-
scribing the best bird, only to find
later that they are all good. Any
can be made a success by care-
fully following these pages.

JAMES P. Pursetu, M. D.
Member of A. P. A.

a ee ee

fy

GRAND VIEW,
SELLERSVILLE, PA.

JANUARY ldru, 1911.

IHE poultry subject has —
occupied the minds of
some of the foremost
scholars and philosophers
from the time B. C. until the pres-
ent era.

Much serious thought, time and
money have been spent in an
endeavor to increase the produc-
tion and quality of the hen.

In fact, to standardize a system
7

POULTRY SENSE.

of poultry culture, so that, by a
course of study and practice, any
person of average intelligence can
make a success with the same.

Among the earliest writers were
men of profound mind and influ-
ence, who gave the subject their
unbiased consideration and atten-
tion. ANG

That they succeeded in develop-
ing specimens of excellence, in a
manner that would stand out prom-
inently at this day, will be seen
from a careful study of their
writings.

As to the origin of the domestic
fowl, that is a question which will
never be positively decided.

By many it is thought to be the
jungle fowl of India; it can scarcely
be possible that all the species

8

POULTRY SENSE.

have come from one common
source.

One of the writers of the first
century was M. 'Terentian Varro—
a friend of Cicero—who died in
27 B. C., in his 89th year.

He was one of the most learned
of the early Roman scholars, hav-
ing written 470 books, though of
_ these only two have come down to |
uals |

The one entitled “‘De Re Rus-
tica,’ on agriculture, written in
his 80th year, was the most ad-
vanced of its kind. In it he gives
space to poultry, calling attention
to strong, healthy, vigorous breed-
ing stock. He describes what they
should be, and no doubt were,
also different kinds.

Pliny the Elder, (born A. D. 23,
9

+ POULTRY SENSE.

at Como or Verono), was a Roman
naturalist of eminence and a great
writer.

In his tenth book of ‘‘ Histora
Naturalis,”’ he writes of the domes-
tic fowl, and says: “‘'These birds

about our houses are our sentinels

by night; nature has created them
to awaken and call men to their
work; they also have sense and
understanding of glory; moreover,
they are astronomers, know the
course of the stars, divide the day
by crowing three hours to three
hours; when the sun goes to rest,
they go to roost and, like sentinels,
keep relief of the fourth watch;

in the camp they call men to their

labor and travel and will not

sufier the sun to rise and steal

upon us but that they give warning
10 |

POULTRY SENSE.

of it by their crowing, telling us
the day is coming; likewise by
clapping their sides with their
wings. Ye shall see them marching
stately, carrying their necks bolt
upright, with a comb on their —
heads like the crest of a soldier’s
helmet, and there is not a bird
beside himself that so oft looketh
up to the sun and sky.” |

Columbella, a Spamiard by birth,
like Pliny the Elder, was an enthu-
siastic writer on poultry; speaks of
the courageous fow! of ‘Taragra
and the fattening fowl of Delas;
writes of a table fowl of superior
excellence, size, shape and utility.

From his description, there is
no doubt but that he refers to the
game fowl and describes what they
were and should be:

LL

POULTRY SENSE.

‘They should be of plumage

red or tawny, black wings; let
the whole be of the same color,
or a near approach; let white fowls
be avoided, for they are tender and
less robust, neither is 1t easy to
find those of that color that are
prolific.” |

He speaks of the breeding hen
and says: ‘It should be robust,
square-framed, large and broad,
large head, small comb, white
ears, and let the largest be used.

Those hens are reckoned the
purest bred which have five claws.
Thus you see at that early age

vigor and stamina were of first ©

importance.

They must have had a standard
and bred to the same, also several
varieties.

12

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POULTRY SENSE.

Me then says: “‘the cock must be
iustful and colored hke the hen,
same number of claws, but larger,
proud and erect, eyes brown, beak
short and crooked; goes on to
describe the features and manners,
as lively, alert and crowing fre- —
quently.

All writers of one different ages
seem to have realized the ten-
dency to deteriorate and insisted ©
upon good quality.

Chaucer, writing in the 14th
century, describes a fowl similar
to the old Kent, Sussex and Surry,
a five-toed fowl.

Terentian Parmenes also said
they should be of the choicest —
color, good shape, active, cour-
ageous and goes into detail of eye,
wattle, comb and head. Speaking

13

POULTRY SENSE.

of their care, they must have
clean pots and perches, refresh
their troughs with fresh, clean
water thrice In summer and twice
in winter, for filthy water engen-
dereth pip and other sickness.

Maisters, Leonard, Mascall, in
1581, and Prudense Choiselat, in
1586, wrote in a like manner and
mentions a breed with a tuft of
feathers on their heads. ‘This is
the first mention of the crested
breed I have found thus far,
which shows that they are among
the oldest breeds on record.

As seen from the French trans-
lation of “‘The Maison Ruas-

tique,’’ written in the 16th century,

the breeders of this period seem

to have had the right idea of sani-

tation and advise cleaning the
14 |

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POULTRY SENSE.

houses every day, frequently de-
stroying insects, keeping the houses
dry, free from draught and fur-
nish plenty of clean water; give
them sand, dust or ashes in which
to dust themselves. |

Having seen how careful they
were three hundred years ago,
we ask ourselves how much have
we advanced?

It is indeed interesting to reflect —

upon the knowledge and attention
given to poultry through the past
ages, yet not surprising when one
considers the benefit and pleasure
to mankind derived from produc-
ing as perfect and useful a fowl
as we have today.

In visiting many of the larger
poultry plants and schools of this
country, it seems to me there is

15

POULTRY SENSE.

one Important question which must
be decided before success can be
attained and that is, how to obtain
health and vigor in the parent
stock? First decide upon the
breed you wish to keep, and, if
for white eggs, would suggest
the hght or Mediterranean, which
require less space and feed than
either the Asiatic or American.

The leghorn has been dubbed
the Jersey of the egg producers,
though some of the American
breeds are very good layers and
will produce as many eggs per
year. ‘Then there are the Minor-
cas and Houdans, which lay large
white eggs; the latter is especially
prized in France for their table
qualities.

If you want meat and eggs

16

POULTRY SENSE.

(and there is no objection to brown —
egos), we advise the Wyandoite,
Reds, Rocks, Orpingtons, Lang-

shans, Brahmas and Cornish.

If you are interested in the
fancy and breeding for pleasure
(and, if properly handled and
advertised, profit), choose the
breed which appeals to you most.
Eggs for market should be infer-
tile, as they are more sanitary and
keep better; these are strictly inva-
lid eggs free from bacilli. Don’t
let your hens eat poor or putrid
food, as it afiects the flavor of
the eggs and may transmit disease
to your hens. |

How shall we attain the health
and vigor referred to above?

By following these instructions: |
17

POULTRY SENSE.

Location

First, as to location. TH possible,
locate on a sandy soil, well drained
and laying to the south, south-
east, or southwest.

Now consider what kind of
fowls should go into the breeding
pen. ie

This is the first step, and here
we must begin correctly if our
object is to be attained. See that
they are selected with as much
care and study as a college foot-
ball team.

If you are right, succeeding steps
will be easy; make a mistake, and
failure is certain.

If inexperienced, we would ad-
vise buying a pen of the best birds
your purse will allow and from

18

POULTRY SENSE.

some breeder of experience who is
known to be reliable.

Even though you cannot afford
more than three good birds, better
spend your money for these, than
a larger pen of inferior stock.

Let these few be vicorovs in
every sense of the word. Be sure
to inquire if any of them have been
sick or out of condition; if so,
then they are not the birds for
you. You want only those that.
are absolutely STRONG, ACTIVE,
WELL DEVELOPED and from Goop,
VIGOROUS STOCK. :

If you purchase eggs for hatch-
Ing, see they are from such stock
as described above, and are not.
over two weeks old and as fresh
as possible, they should be well

ie

POULTRY SENSE.

shaped, good color, and free from
defects.

Don’t make a mistake and breed
to a bird because it meets standard

requirements and sacrifice vigor

and laying qualities.
The number of hens per male
should be about twelve to fifteen

in the Mediterranean, eight for

the American, and six for the
Asiatic; the more active the breed
the more females per pen.

If you use two males in the
breeding pen (alternating each
day), we get the best results from
an early hatched and well matured
cockerel and cock,—it will increase
the per cent. of fertile eggs and
produce more vigorous stock.

If inexperienced, I would say go
slowly, develop a unit plant of

20

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POULTRY SENSE.

from twenty-five to one hundred
birds and when you have made a
success of those you can multiply

your plant by adding as many

units as you desire.

Breed to yearlings or two-year-
old hens, using an early hatched
and fully matured cockerel or
cock.

It is generally considered that -

mating hens with cockerels will
give a larger per cent. of pullets,
and by mating fully matured pul-
lets with a cock bird will give
more cockerels.

Never breed to full brothers or

sisters, or where the male and —

female have like defects.
I am quite aware there are
those who will say, ‘‘ Nonsense,
a1

POULTRY SENSE.

pullets are all right to breed to
cockerels.”’

Not so in our experience, nor
do the most successful breeders
use them.

The only time we believe pullets
can be used 1s when you are breed-
ing for cockerels, as stated above,
and then they should be early
hatched, fully matured and bred
to a vigorous cock.

Why not breed to pullets?

Because they do not bring as
strong, vigorous chicks, nor will
they develop as rapidly or grow

into as fine, large specimens as

those from the more fully matured
hen. |

Pullets not being fully developed,

lay smaller eggs, and the fertility

is liable to run lower owing to the

22

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POULTRY SENSE.

large number of eggs laid - per
month as compared to hens.

The best results obtained at
Grand View, have been from year-
ling or two-year-old hens mated to
a large cockerel or a year-old cock.

The male should be selected
with especial care, as to vitality,
size, shape and color, and should
exceed in those points which are
defective in the female and vice -
versa. |

I mention vigor first, because it
is of the most importance, and, as
I have just said, particularly in
the male.

He must be active, alert, cour-
ageous, giving all of his attention —
to his hens, defending them, crow-
ing often and difficult to coerce.

His eye should stand out promi-

23

POULTRY SENSE.

nently and look ferocious and

call loudly to his hens.
Next of importance is type.

He should be of good conforma-
tion; this is very essential. Next
in line comes color; see that he is
true to his kind, and of good size.

After you have selected your
breeders, you must have a pen or
house for their abode; we would
strongly advise the fresh air kind,
with curtain fronts.

Regardless of the adverse criti-
cism of a few prominent breeders,
fresh air is of vital importance to
all organic life. See that the pen
is dry, free from draughts, of
ample size, so that there will be no
crowding on the perches at night,
plenty of scratching room, free

24

‘POULTRY SENSE.

from all kinds of vermin, clean
and sanitary.

The floor should be double,
with heavy paper between the
layers.

There are many books written
on poultry houses and fixtures;
all agree in the main with but a
few exceptions, so we will not take
up much space in describing them
other than to say that in a pen 10x ©
12 about 25 to 30 chickens can be
comfortably housed.

See that the dropping board is
at least two feet from hens when
on perches and that the sun can
shine on them a short time each
day. |
It 1s quite essential to visit your
hen-house at night, in mild weath-
er, in order to note if there is any

25

POULTRY SENSE.

crowding on the perches; if such
is the case, you have too many
to a pen; overcrowding is con-

ducive to colds and poor ventila-.

tion. :
The house should be free from

draughts, dampness and vermin,

for you cannot be successful un-
less you keep your flock free from
the annoyance of lice and mites.
Use plenty of lice powder; we use
“orp top” and find it very good.
Remove all droppings at least
once a week; every day is better.
Use plenty of sand on the floors
of pen and drop boards, as sand
is very important as well as sani-
tary; sifted coal ashes will do.

Disinfect often (not less than

once a month) winter as well as

summer; damp, warm, mucky

26

SRS

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POULTRY SENSE.

weather is a good breeder of dis-
ease germs and a good time to
Pumicate.))())

Always be on the lookout for
colds or other diseases, if you find
such, remove the bird from the
pen at once and place in a hospital.

Right here let me say that we
consider it of utmost importance
to have a separate place some

distance from the other birds in>
which you can place all sick fowls. |

You will appreciate this advice
some of these days when such
diseases as roup, chicken-pox, sore
throat, limberneck, cholera and

other epidemics are rampant in>
your neighborhood; the chances

are that if you have followed the

above instructions you will escape,

which will save labor, worry,
27 |

POULTRY SENSE.

money and perhaps a prize winner
or two.

Upon purchasing birds from
any source, never place them among:
your flock until you feel sure they
are free from all vermin and
disease.

For disinfecting use formalde-
hyde or flowers of sulphur; the
former can be used in liquid by
spraying on perches, dropping
boards and about the pen, or the
candles can be used; in using the
sulphur, take a cupful (6 oz.) in an
old can (we use the large-sized
sardine can), set it in a basin of
water, being careful that the water
is not too deep or it will wet the
sulphur; pour a little wood or
denatured alcoho! on the middle
of sulphur and after freeing the

28

POULTRY SENSE.

pen from all the chickens and
making it as nearly air-tight as
possible, light the sulphur.

To a pen ten by twelve put two
cans of sulphur or two candles of
formaldehyde, after they have
burned out (or in two or three
hours) open up the pen and allow
the birds to return; this will occupy
very little time and destroy disease
germs, vermin and rats.

Paint the perches at least twice
a week with a mixture composed
of one part crude carbolic (90 to
95 per cent.) to three parts gasoline.
This is a fine disinfectant and
germicide. —

See that your hens have a good —
dust bath which contains a goodly
quantity of flowers of sulphur or
louse powder.

29

POULTRY SENSE.

We would suggest putting the
dust box on the outside of the
poultry house leaving an opening
twelve by fourteen inches, through
which they can enter the dust box
from their pen.

This box should be large enough
to accommodate several birds at
atime. If you have thirty birds,
make your box or house three by
four feet in floor space and two
and one-half feet high in front,
slanting the roof towards the poul-
try house, where it will measure
three feet high; place glass in the
south side of this box. Of course
this box will always be built on

the south side of your hen house. —
Have the floor of the box six inches |

below the level of the hen house
by placing a board six inches high
80

POULTRY SENSE.

across the entrance to the dust
bath. It will keep the chickens
from dragging in the litter.

Fill the box with dust or ground
mixed with louse powder and
flowers of sulphur until it is on a
level with the floor of the house.

DUST BATH

The roof should be placed on
hinges, so as to allow cleaning out
31

POULTRY SENSE.
and replacing fresh dust or ground.
By this plan the dust is kept. out
of the poultry house and yet
affords a natural way for the hens
to dust themselves.

Trap Nesting

We advise the use of trap nests
by all means, particularly for the
breeding pen, so as to be able to
pedigree your stock and for the
laying pullets, to enable one to
select the best layers of large,
perfect-shaped eggs.

There shouldgbe a record kept

of these birds, so Chea we come

to mate our breeding pens the —

following. year, it can be done
intelligently.
In order to do this each pullet

32

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Dest |

3/4\"- My
Yl. HoRIZONTAL ARM

WHICH FITS OVER
| lin BIND er rin.

WIRE WHICH
SETS aso LOCKS
TRAP DOOR

PERPINDICULAR NOTCH
WHICH LOCKS DOOR.

SLIDE IN WHICH
“WIRE MOVES WHICH
LOCKS DOOR.

SQUARE STAPLE ON WHICH
PERPINDICULAR NOTCH CATCHES
TO LOGK DOCk.

/

3in. oN EACH SIDE OF V

POULTRY SENSE.

should be banded. This band
should be marked with the number
of the bird and the year it was
hatched. It will be your aim to
improve your flock along the line
of utility (laying, size of bird and
egg), and show quality. This
cannot be done scientifically with-
out the aid of the trap nest. °

By stamping the year on the
band, it enables you to begin
numbering the pullets each year,
commencing with number one.

Trap-nesting incurs considerable
labor, as the hen must be liberated,
necessitating your visiting the nests
three or four times daily.

Upon removing the egg, it must
be marked with her band number,

also the number of the male, and,
if you wish the date, this must be

o4

‘POULTRY SENSE.

done at the nest, so as to be sure

you do not get the eggs mixed; a

mistake here would make your
record useless. |
Pedigreeing is very exacting
work, but very interesting.
The trap nest can be made out

of any box having the following

dimensions. 18 in. deep, 15 in.
high, 124 in. wide; these are inside

measurements. The wire which is |
used in making the trap is the size

used in making handles for grape
baskets, in fact have used the
grape basket handles for making

- the traps.

Feeding the breeding hen is a
question which requires consider-
able thought. ‘The object is to
produce strong fertility, large egos

and as free from bacilli as possible.

35

POULTRY SENSE.
Here quantity is not considered;
it is quality we want.

It has been said white diarrhoea.

in the chick develops from an

infected egg. ‘This could be pos-

sible if the hen that laid the ege

suffered intestinal trouble or con-
stitutional disease.

This emphasizes what we have
already said about strong, vigor-
ous birds, pure feed and clean,
iresh water put in sanitary fonts
or basins.

A medium diet is one not so
rich in egg-producing material (pro-
tein), but which will develop a
strong, active bird, laying three or

four eggs per week; such eggs

are more fertile, Jarger, and hatch
stronger chicks. |
We advise the use of a germicide

36

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~ POULTRY SENSE.

in the drinking water two or three
times a week for a couple of weeks
before saving the eggs for hatching
and once or twice a week during
the breeding season.

The following germicides are
inexpensive and can be purchased
at any first-class pharmacy and
may be used as follows:

Enough permanganate of potash
to color the water a cherry red, of
1 to 1000 solution, or sufficient
bichromate of potash to give an
amber tint to water, of 1 to 1000
solution, ‘Ten drops of carbolic
acid to one quart of water or bichlo-
ride, 1 to 1000, two ounces in a
quart of water. I prefer the latter,
especially if there has been any
previous bowel trouble in the flock.

Where the stock is strong and

37

POULTRY SENSE.

vigorous, with no history of bowel

disturbance in your chickens from
the previous year, the above may
not be necessary, but can do no

harm, though would not use the

germicide more than once a week.

Feeding the Pullets
and Laying Hens

First let us consider what the-

pullets require:

They must grow a heavy supply
of feathers to protect them from
the cold in winter, meet the Cata
and anabolistic process (tearing
down and rebuilding of the body),

or, In other words, the wear and

tear of her system, develop heat

to keep her warm and material
with which to produce the eggs
and energy.

- 7 ae = ———
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POULTRY SENSE.

When the pullets have reached
the laying pen it is not so important
that their feed should be rich in
muscle, bone and feather-produc-
ing material, but rich in egg and
energy-furnishing elements, which
can be determined from the analy-.
sis of the various feed stuff given
later, and will be selected from
oats, wheat, corn, barley, peas,
beans, lentils, cotton, linseed and.
meat meal, ground or cut green
bone and milk.

She should have a goodly supply
of green feed, consisting of sprouted
oats, or other grains, cabbage,
mangles,. lettuce, turnips, swiss
chard and occasionally a feed of

alfalfa.

After the pullets have been
39

POULTRY SENSE.

placed in the laying pen they
should be fed the following:

The mash for the first three
weeks should consist of:

Wiheat bran cna hos ae 300 Ibs. %
Wheatvmiddlings iri, co el ean 150 %* &
COE CHOD) ae eee ce ieee 7 ae
NERE SCPANS Hoe a ire ote ae

After the third, and beginning
with the fourth week, and continued
for the next month, add to the
above:

SLUICE TOOT a) ee Dei UO gary aoe 75 Ibs. ©

Cotton or linseed meal. ....... 30° Fad

From this on they should be

given the following:

WiReaG Rae an ae in Ne 300 lbs. &
Wheat middlings; 605... 08. 175“ &
OTR CLO is Hai ie) Pela eben 100) t8%
Meatiseraps oil elie kb em ne 150 “* 3
GlaGem Mea ye Wa ee ae O02 is
Cotton or linseed meal ....... 50 ‘ f

During the molting season
40

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- POULTRY SENSE.

(which commences about. July
15th), we add twenty-five pounds
more of cotton seed or linseed
meal and a little sunflower seed,
mixed with the whole grains, which
are scattered in the litter.

Be careful to examine your meat
meal to see that it is free from
adulteration and good and sweet;
there has been so much poor stufi
sold that it pays one to be on the
watch and not to buy any but the
best and from a reliable dealer.
It should run about sixty per cent.
protein and guaranteed to be fresh,
otherwise you had better feed blood
meal or plenty of milk.

Oyster shell, grit and charcoal
should be kept before them in
hoppers, at all times.

The whole grains should be

41

POULTRY SENSE.

— $$ —.

thrown in about twelve inches of

litter and consist of two quarts of
oats and one quart of wheat, given
in the morning and cracked corn
at night; when very cold, feed

whole corn.

The morning feed may be alter-
nated every other day or so with
two quarts of barley and one quart
of wheat; a little buckwheat, say
one pint, can be added to two
quarts of cracked corn for the
evening feed.

It is important that the birds
should be kept busy,—this means
hungry. If you overfeed they

will become fat and inactive. Find-

ing grain in the early morning

before feeding would indicate that

you have over-fed, and in this case

you should withhold whole grain
42 :

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pp Ss

eS
ety ee

- POULTRY SENSE.

until the litter is entirely free from
the same.

I would also advise the closing
of the mash box and only allow
them to use it about two hours
during the middle of the day.
As soon as they get busy again,
go back to the former method of
feeding.

The hens will require the same
whole grains and would use in
the mash box the same mixture
as is given in the second mash for
the pullets.

To better enable you to select
a feed to your own liking and
judgment, we give the following
tables, taken from several very
reliable sources. )

I might say that the American
Association of Agricultural Col-

43

POULTRY SENSE.

lege and Experiment Stations have
adopted and recommended the
term PROTEIN in the place of PRO-
TEID, albumin, albuminoids, ni-
trogenous foods, etc., and we will

treat the term as synonymous.

The following tables from several
reliable sources will give you the
value of the various vegetables
and grains used in feeding:

44

POULTRY SENSE.

TABLE No. 1

Prepared from two very reliable sources. —

Showing the value of different feed as tissue builders, heat
and energy. producers.

FOOD
MUSCLE- | HEAT- | for

BUILDING | PRODUC- | NERVE | WATER. | WASTE.
MATERIAL] _ ING. TISSUE.

Per Cent. Per Cent. | Per Cent. | Per Cent. | Per Cent.

Wheat ... 16.6 66.4

1.6 14. 3.4
aney: . . 12.8 52.1 4.2 14. 12.9
ae 17. 50.8 3. 13.1 16.9
North Corn . 12.3 67.5 he 14. 5.1
South Corn . 34.6 SoZ 4.1 14. 8.1
Buckwheat . 8.6 53. 1.8 14.2 | 22.4
Pee 5.5 78.2 0.5 13.8 4.3
BGC i S| 5.1 82. 0.5 9. 3.4
Lentils 26. 39. 1.5 14. 19.5
Peas 23.4 41. 2.5 14, 19.
Beans . 24, 40. oo 14.8 IA
Potatoes : 1.4 15.8 0.9 74.8 7.1
aarnips .. . 1,2) 4. 0.5 90.4 | 3.9
Cabbage. . . 1.2 6.2 0.8 91.3 | 0.5
Mangles... |
Cow’s Milk . 3.0 8.0 1.0 BG.
eer... 19. 14. 2. 6d.

45

POULTRY SENSE.

a
q
| a
TABLE No. 2 .
Prepared for use in United States Army. q |
CARBO- q
PROTEIN.| FATS. HYDRATE SALTS. | WATER. 4 |
Per Cent. | Per Cent. | Per Cent. | Per Cent. | Per Ceat. | ®
Oatmeal. ..| 15.1 een a se: 2. nai a mt
Corn Meal. . 9.20 3.8 70.6 1.4 15. q
ALOIS i ip Veli da 27 76. 3. th
BIGOT Soy Asie 7.4 0.4 79.4 0.4 12.8 i
Peas Oe eee 1.7 56.40 2.9 L2G i
PEGS Ui 23.10 2. 59.2 3.1 12.6 |
Potatoes .. 2.10 0.1 17.9 t: hey: Mes
Cabbage. ..j| 2.10 0.6 5.5 Lt 92.
Beer euch Ege 27. 0.9 «<6.

As one can see, from a comparison of the foregoing tables,
there is some variance in the per cent. and composition of
foods, but not enough to make any particular difference, when
we come to make up our feeds.

The following tables are reliable and show the general com-
position as an average analysis of grains, vegetables, etc.

45

POULTRY SENSE.

TABLE No. 3
Prepared from the Report of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

PROTEIN. FAT. CAREBO-

HYDRATE | “WATER.
Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent.
te 12.25 1.725 71.25 10.60
ei 12 4.5 58. 10
PP ss. | LO, 4.5 Vig Wars 10.75
Baneys . . . ee 2.25 69.45 10.85
Buckwheat 10.75 : via 62.75 12
ae pcan 15 LEO 10.5
By a Me 8 De 76. 12
CoTrron SEED
MEAL |
Pennsylvania ./| 44.40 10.10
New England .| 45.40 11.20 |
New York . . | 45.64 10.82
LInsEED MEAL,
Oxyd Pros.
Pennsylvania . | 34.10 6.04
New England .. | 35.70 7.20
Semwivork . . .:| 35.74 7.19
New Pros.
Pennsylvania .| 34.25 2.63 FREE
New England . | 38.20 2.40 NITROGEN
New York ...| 36.14 re Sa :
worm( Dent) . .} 10.3 5. 70.4 10.6
Corn (Flint) . . | 10.5 5. 70.1 i
mormiveal ....| 9.2 3.8 68.7 15.
Gluten Meal . . | 29.4 6.3 52.4 9.6
Malt Sprouts. . | 25.15 Leet 45.98 9,94 —
Brew. Dried Grains . | 23.90 fi 43.30 8.9
Wheat Bran ..| 15.4 4, 53.90 11.9
Wheat Mid. ..| 15.6 4, 64.40 bash
Wheat Shorts .| 14.9 4.5 56.80 11.8
Ground Oats . .| 11.8 5. 59.7 js
Barley Meal . . | 10.5 vials 66.3 11.9
Meat tover . 2 ')) 12.3 to 14.63)’ 3,3 to 3.9) 38.1 to 45.24): 15.3
White Clover. .| 15.7to017.4| 2.9 to3.2; 39.3 to 43.5 9.7
mead. we 14.3t0 15.6) 2.2 to2.4| 42.7 to 46.6 8.4

«

POULTRY SENSE. |

TABLE NO. 3—ConTINUED a -

The following is an average table taken from different —
sources: _ : Bape

CARBO-
HYDRATE

Per Cent. Per Cent, Per Cent’) Ber Gene
ho are 8.

: G2.) 10.

59, 12.6

PROTEIN. FAT. WATER,

emtule hn oi is 25.4 1
OAR ha el ely 24. 1
PPC R TER (4 secs eae 22.5 We)
OS fei ge a 1.33 8. | 89.

Cabbage sik... 2. a) 6. 90. .
Cow’s Milk .. 4, i 4, 87.5
Peet ee any 20.5 0. 74.4
PO GN rN Ns OB) Ow Ch age. 0. a

48

POULTRY SENSE.

In order to scientifically deter-
mine just what kind of feed and
in what proportions they should be
used, let us consider the analysis

of the hen’s body, also the egg.

THE HEN’S BODY CONSISTS OF
THE FOLLOWING :

Water—seventy-four per cent.

Protein—twenty-one per cent.

Fat—three and four-fifths to five
per cent.

Saline—about one-half per cent.
The egg, one tenth of which is

shell, contains the following:

Water—seventy-three and one-half
per cent.

Protein—thirteen and one- shalt per
cent.

Saline—one and a tenth per cent.

Lewis and Gilbert give the fol-
lowing analysis of the egg, allow-
49

POULTRY SENSE.

ing one-tenth for shell, which is
largely carbonate of lime, yolk
thirty parts and white sixty parts.

Yolk of Egg

Yolk of egg—thirty per cent.

Protein—sixteen per cent.

Fat—thirty and seven-tenths per
cent. or

saline—one and three-tenths per
cent.

Water—-fifty-two per cent.

White of Egg
White of egg—sixty per cent.
Protein—twenty and two-fifths per

cent.
Saline—one and three-fifths per
cent.
Water—seventy- ‘atl per cent.
Shell (largely carbonate of lime),
ten per cent.
As has been shown from the

o0

POULTRY SENSE.

foregoing, the hen’s body and egg
are largely composed of water,
you can better appreciate the im-
portance of a goodly supply of
the same.

Next we find protein predomi-
nates, and as this is especially
necessary for a large egg yield,
it is self-evident the laying pen
should be well supplied with the
same, and as fat protects the pro-
tein from consumption and is the
principal heat supply, we must
have a goodly portion of ae in
the food.

The carbo-hydrates (sugars and
starch) furnish energy and nerve-
building material as well as some >
fat, so it should be found in the
grains, vegetables and other feeds.

The bony system, feathers and

51

POULTRY SENSE.

ego-shell are supplied principally
from the phosphates and carbonate
of lime, also soda (salt) and iron.

This is largely furnished by
oyster shell, wheat, bran, oats
corn, ete.

There has been a great deal said
and written about feeding hens
and pullets for egg-production,
much of which is confusing and
misleading to the beginner. Better
follow one good authority than to
try so many different schemes.

After all, it is not only the feed |
that makes a heavy egg yield in
the spring, but climatic conditions,
which furnish more natural feed
and stimulate an active and busy
life. |

A good combination of cereals to
be given to start your pullets and

52

POULTRY SENSE.

hens on the egg ae idea is the
following:
Ground beans, peas, lentils, and

cotton seed meal mixed in equal
portions and added to the mash
occasionally, say two or three

times a week, will usually do the
trick, and start the young and old

hen singing and on an expedition
of investigation for a place to es .

the egg.
It is not best to keep this up for

very long, and just as soon as the

eggs begin to come you may
gradually reduce this and finally
stop it. :

Scalded oats or barley given in
the morning in cold weather will
give good results; you may also
moisten your mash a couple of
times a week with milk, or equal

a)

POULTRY SENSE.

parts of milk and water, in which
you can put a little salt; this given
to the laying hen will assist in
maintaining a uniform egg supply.

Do not keep pullets or hens
that are sluggish layers; better
put them in the fattening pen and
send to the market as soon as
possible.

The trap nests will pick out the
lazy ones, or by examining the
lay bones you can pretty well tell.

If the pullets are fully matured
and have had the proper care and
you are not getting eggs from them
by January 15 to February 17 it
will not pay to keep them longer,
much less to breed to them.

To determine by the lay bones
as to whether a chicken is laying
or no, you proceed as follows:

Bd

POULTRY SENSE.

The lay bones are the two bones
felt just beneath the vent, and in a
hen that is not laying or a pullet
before she commences to lay, they
are quite close together, and it
will be difficult to place one’s
fingers between the same; later,
if you find you can get two fingers
between the lay bones, it indicates
she is getting ready to lay, and
when three or four fingers can be
placed between the bones the
chances are she is laying, or will
do so in a few days.

To our minds, the best egg pro-
ducer is a good, well-developed,
healthy pullet, properly fed and
housed.

Chicks

Chicks may be hatched by hens

or in an up-to-date incubator;
55

POULTRY SENSE.

if by hens, would advise setting
Biddy in a quiet place, giving her
a good nest of cut straw or shav-
ings, in which have been mixed
flowers of sulphur and lice powder;
the heat of her body will cause a
sulphurous odor which ‘is not rel-
ished by the lice. You may put
a sod of earth in the bottom, if
you wish, then the straw and sul-
phur and powder on top. After
the hen has been thoroughly pow-
dered with louse powder and given
some china eggs, she is left to her-
self, and if she proves worthy of
good eggs by having sat faithfully

on the nest for two or three days,

give her thirteen eggs in cold and
fifteen in mild weather, Once a
week she should be powdered,
then you will be pretty sure there

56

POULTRY SENSE.

will be no vermin to bother her or
the baby chicks which make their
appearance twenty-one days from
the time of setting.

After they are all hatched and

dry, the hen and chicks may be |

placed in a comfortable and com-
modious coop, which has _ been
previously prepared, cleaned, free

from lice and placed so as to have .

a southern exposure.

There should be a runway sup-
plied, in which the chicks can go,
but not the hen; this should be
supplied with a cover, so that in

wet weather it will not storm on
the chicks and they and the ground |

be kept dry.
A good idea is to put litter in
the run, and after the chicks have
57

POULTRY SENSE.

learned to eat, their grain should
be thrown in the same.

It is best to make this run out
of inch mesh wire, so that the
chicks cannot get out or the spar-
rows in.

Do not feed the chicks until they
are forty-eight hours old; then
commence with a little pin-head
oats, placed in feeders or on trays,
a little clean sand which has been
heated in an oven, or grit may be
given in small quantities the day
before.

They should be fed four times
a day for the first three days,
using only the pin-head oats; after

this you may add cracked wheat,

and on the eighth day add to the
two former cracked corn; these
are given in equal proportions.

58

ee ve 7 -. - a es ° . ; weclicsl = ==
eR ee ap Se ee eS ee a

POULTRY SENSE.

Wheat bran may now be given
in small hoppers or trays and kept
before them at_all times.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER FEED.
Never give feed if you find some
left from the previous feeding.
As I have already said, the cracked
grain had best be thrown in the
litter or the runway. ‘The hen can
be given coarser feed.

After they are three weeks old,
feed three times daily, using the
cracked corn, oats and wheat.

You may now give a mash of
bran, three parts; wheat middlings,
one part.

Grit, charcoal and oyster shell
should be hopper feed.

Chick feed containing pure,clean
grain similar to the above, can be
given if you prefer, purchasing

59

POULTRY SENSE.

your chick feed ready mixed in

place of making it yourself. We
do not believe in giving WET FEED;
but a mash mixed with a little
milk, or equal parts milk and
water, just enough to moisten
the feed, so that it is crumbly in
the hand, will be good for them
and stimulate their appetite, THIS
MUST NOT BE SLOPPY or be allowed
to sour in the troughs.

Do not give more than will be
eaten up clean in from five to
eight minutes; if any is left, this
should be removed.

If you are brooding the chicks

with a hen, be sure and powder

her with a good louse powder at

least once a week; the chicks will

get enough of the powder from
60

POULTRY SENSE.

the hen to keep them free from
lice so long as she covers them.

Plenty of FRESH, CLEAN WATER,
given often and in absolutely clean
fonts, is very essential.

The fonts should be scalded
once a week. ;

We put ten drops of carbolic
acid per quart in the drinking
water for the first ten days to two
weeks, once a day; after that every
other day for six weeks, as this
is a preventative of bowel trouble.

Cleanliness is the key to success
here.

As soon as the chicks will eat
whole oats, fill a hopper and keep
it before them at all times; there |
is nothing that will make chicks
grow larger and heavier with such
an abundance of feathers.

61

POULTRY SENSE.

Some have been quite successful —

in hatching chicks with hens and
brooding with a fireless brooder,
or in an incubator, and on the
eighteenth day place three or four
egos under a hen, so that she may
hatch them out and -accept the
little chicks from the incubator.

In this way a hen can brood from
eighteen to twenty-five chicks with
perfect safety in quite cold weather.

In this case one must be quite
sure that the hen is free from
vermin and that the pen in which
they are placed has been thorough-
ly fumigated and cleaned before
the chicks are put in.

If the fireless brooder is used,

thirty-five to fifty chicks do best

in one flock, and they should not

be placed in the brooder for thirty-
62

POULTRY SENSE.

six hours after hatching. The
brooder had best be placed in a
large pen, with a southern ex-
posure, so as to get the early
morning sun.

Incubator chicks do fairly well
in this kind of a brooder, hardly
the equal to hen hatched or brood-
ed in our experience.

In raising large numbers, we

prefer the heated brooder with a-

first-class hover.

If you use incubators, select
one of the standard makes, and
there are many of them.

Pay strict attention to the in-
structions that come with the ma-

chine; the maker should know

best how to run it for good results.

When the chicks are hatched,

do not take them out until they are
63

POULTRY SENSE.

perfectly dry and strong. DON’T

MEDDLE WITH THE MACHINE AT
ANY TIME, particularly when the
hatch is coming off, and at this
time do not allow the temperature
to fall below one hundred and four
degrees (104°). ,

Have your ,brooder clean, dis-
infected and. at the proper tem-
perature, so that the chicks can be
transferred from the incubator in-
to it when the time comes, without
a variation in temperature.

The temperature in the brooder
should be high enough to make
the chicks comfortable; this can be
determined by closely watching

them for the first few days. It

you see them sitting around in

different places under the hover,

some having their heads peeping
64

Zz
=
ae
a
—* rs . —— ee é os fn

=

pe eae
Sa a A eo

apy!
A yh

i

i

POULTRY SENSE.

out and they are not crowding,
your temperature is all right and
will range from ninety to one
hundred degrees. Crowding is
fatal and must be stopped at once,
or you will lose many of the young-
sters in short notice.

Teach them to go under the
hover by repeatedly putting them
back after they have been out for
feed and exercise; the instant they
commence to stand around and
cry there is something wrong and
the chances are that they are cold
and should be put under the hover
at once.

From fifty to seventy-five chicks
to a hover do the best.

When they have learned the use
of the hover, you can give them
more space in the brooder and

65

POULTRY SENSE.

finally the entire run of the thing.
Up to this time they should be
limited to a narrow space sur-
rounding the hover, not more than
three inches. |

Feed the same as. described
before for little chicks.

Do NOT SAVE ANY WEAKLINGS
OR DEFORMED cHIcKs. ‘hose found
at the time of hatching or that
develop later, dispose of them at
once, as they are good subjects for
bowel trouble or other disease,
which in time would affect the
entire flock.

Clean the brooder often, every
day, if necessary. It should never
smell close or offensive. Disinfect
and clean all trays, pans, boards

or anything used in their care.

As soon as it is possible to deter-
66

POULTRY SENSE.

mine the sex, separate the cock-
erels from the pullets, putting those
for the market or fattening-pen
by themselves, those for your future
breeders in another place.

The pullets must be given a
range and placed in a colony coop,
with as much room as possible,
putting about thirty in each house,
facing the south; feed muscle,
bone and feather-producing foods.

We find that oats before them
at all times, cracked wheat and
corn, with occasionally a little
barley and fed three times a day,
just what they will eat up nicely
in ten minutes, give first-class re-
sults. |

For a dry mash we use: wheat
bran, three parts; wheat middlings,
one part; corn meal, three-quarter

67

POULTRY SENSE.

parts. Once or twice a week add
a little linseed or flaxseed meal.
After they have been on the range

for six weeks, we add one-half

parts meat scraps; the same can
be used for the breeding cockerels,

except the meat scraps; the latter

is likely to develop too much comb
and wattle.

Those for market should be
given the fat-producing feeds, oc-
casionally adding red pepper to
stimulate their appetites. This
mash should be fed wet with milk,
if possible. Do not give any green

feed, but see that they have sf

of grit and oyster shell.

If you over-feed they will stop
eating; this should be avoided.

For whole grain use oats and whole

68

ae
yao

POULTRY SENSE.

corn, buckwheat is inclined’ to
make the skin white.

The mash should consist of:
wheat bran, one part; wheat mid-
dlings, one part; ground oats, one
part; corn chop, two parts; cotton
seed or linseed meal, one-quarter
part.

The birds for fattening should be
confined in small quarters, and in
crate feeding, not over five or six
in a crate. ‘he manner of pro-
cedure is as follows:

Make a stand that will hold
four crates, end to end, containing
six birds each; the first row should
be two feet from the floor and the
second on top of these. A trough
should be placed in front of each
row just so the chickens can reach
it in order to eat and drink.

69

a TT = :

POULTRY SENSE.

The feed is placed in_ these
troughs and given wet; they are
fed three or four times a day, all
they will eat in about ten minutes;
after which water is placed in the

troughs and the house in which

they are confined is darkened.

They should be given ’a good
supply of grit and shell.

The object is to give them all
they will eat without disturbing
their appetites or bowels.

The mash feed consists of ground
oats, barley, and corn chop, in
equal parts, to which can be added
cotton or linseed meal one-quarter
part; fat, meat scraps or oil may be
given, being careful not to give
too much, as it will cause bowel
trouble.

There is a machine used by

70

POULTRY SENSE.

some to fatten their stock, which is
claimed to be quite a success; this
apparatus is similar to a sausage
stuffer, with a rubber tube attached
to the spout; this is placed in the
chicken’s crop and the compres-
sion made with the foot lever;
one hand is placed over the crop;
as pressure is made the resistance
to the hand indicates when enough
has been forced in the same.
They are fed two or three times
a day, this taking only a very short
time and a large number can be
run through in an hour. These
birds are kept in crates like the
ones described above.

When they weigh three-quarters
to one pound they are known as
squab broilers; at one and a

71

POULTRY SENSE.

quarter to one and three-quarters,
broilers; above this, roasters.

Don’t keep unnecessary stock.
If you want to make a success of
the poultry business, you should
practice economy; weaklings and
sick chickens make unnecessary
labor and eat off their heads.
Everything possible should be turn-
ed into money.

By saving the droppings and
putting same on your land it will
bring a good return. - Unless you
keep the cockerels, which you are
going to breed from or sell, in good
clean dry quarters, and free from
vermin, you will be disappointed
in. them and lose money. ‘They
should have a good dust bath as
well as the pullets, in which you
should place plenty of louse powder

72

POULTRY SENSE.

and sulphur, and their quarters
frequently disinfected.

Don’t overcrowd the pullets and
cockerels; the former should be
ready for the laying pen by Sep-
tember first to October first, at the
latest.

Keep them on the same feed
the first three weeks after they
are put into the laying pens. ‘Then
they should be given mash number _
one, mentioned before, and whole
grains, as per instructions for laying
pullets.

Show Birds
Those birds selected for the

show should be placed in a coop

by themselves and given special

attention, handling them often,

and by always having a little
73

POULTRY SENSE.

something for them to eat, such as
a few bread crumbs or meat, they
soon become very tame and docile.

Linseed meal and sunflower seed
added to their rations,give them a
sleek, glossy appearance.

They should be the strongest,
largest, best type and colored birds
that you have, meeting as nearly
as possible standard requirements;
this can be determined by closely
studying the Standard of Per-

fection and comparing your bird

with the cuts of the same breed.

First of importance is condition;
this means vigor, style or carriage,
cleanliness and freedom from dis-
ease; next, type, color, etc.

Colored or multi-colored birds
rarely need washing, unless there

74

POULTRY SENSE.

is considerable white in them, or
they are dirty. |

In preparing your birds for the
show, which you should commence
to do a week or ten days before
the exhibition, it is best to start
with the head and see that every
part is clean and free from as many
defects as possible.

The beak, toes and shanks should

be washed and rubbed up with ©

sweet oil on a woolen cloth, espe-
elally if it is the last preparation.
If there is any dirt under the scales
of the shanks, which can be seen
by a black line along its edge, it
should be removed with a tooth-
pick; the comb, wattle, and ear
lobes, in case the latter should be
red, can be rubbed up with sweet
oil; in case the latter should be

79

POULTRY SENSE.

white, you may use zinc ointment
on them.

The day of shipping, paint the
comb, wattles and ear lobes, as
above stated ; should they be red,
with oil of sassafras.

All white chickens: should be
washed and rinsed in two different
waters, using ivory or castile soap.

The water in first tub should be
of a temperature from 90 to 95
degrees; place the chicken in and
soap her all over; then rub every
part carefully, so as not to remove
any feathers, and when she is
clean, put her into the first rinsing
tub, temperature of which should
be from 70 to 80 degrees; here
the soap must be thoroughly work-
ed out, when she can be placed in
the third tub where bluing has been

76

POULTRY SENSE.

thoroughly mixed, about one-half
the amount used for clothing, or
just sufficient to give a decided
blue tint to the water. If your
bird, after drying, which should
be well done before a fire or stove,
looks brassy, you may sponge it
with peroxide of hydrogen until
the feathers are decidedly moisten-
ed; then when about dry, sponge

with aqua ammonia fifteen per —

cent.; this can be repeated several
times, if necessary; any color re-
maining is permanent.

This operation should be per-
formed in a room where the tem-
perature runs from 55 to 70 de-
grees.

In drying birds they should be
handled constantly, working the
feathers and wings. By holding

7

3 WS

SES

POULTRY SENSE.

the bird up by its feet it will flap
its wings, thus freeing them from
the water. As soon as you find
the feathers are commencing to
dry nicely, the bird can be placed
on a chair by the stove.

After the birds are washed and
dried, place them in a clean pen,
which has been previously pre-
pared and in which there are
plenty of clean shavings or straw
and put into a room free from
draughts and not too cold, say not
lower than 60 degrees.

Sprouting Oats
Sprouted oats, which has_ be-

come almost a necessity, should be

fed about the middle of the day
and is prepared as follows: |
Take a bucket of any kind,

| 78 |

> - ee ee
Py ots a = ae ae oe, ee oe = an
S25. Si ee na ee Ses ;

Sn Tee

POULTRY SENSE.

holding four quarts; fill two-thirds
full of oats, over which you pour
water, temperature 100 degrees,
until the oats are covered; put this
in a warm place and cover with
an old sack or a piece of carpet,
leaving it there for from fourteen
to twenty-four hours; then dump
the contents into another bucket,
after first having punched the bot-

tom full of holes, so that the water -

can drain out and still retain the
oats.

The oats should be sprinkled
twice daily with warm water, keep-
ing the oats covered as before.

As soon as you notice the root-
lets forming on the oats, dump the
same into a tray that is eighteen
inches wide by two to two and one-
half feet long, spreading the oats

79

POULTRY SENSE.

out to the depth of an inch to an
inch and a half, this must be kept
covered and sprinkled twice a day
with lukewarm water.

The temperature of the room
should not be ie below fifty
degrees.

When the sprouts are from one
and a half to two inches long you
may begin feeding it, tearing it
into small pieces or giving it in

squares. We consider the former -

the better way.

Give the hens all they will eat
up in from five to ten minutes,
other grains can be sprouted in
the same way and fed every, or
every other day.

Green food of some kind should
be fed every day and as there are
a great many, such as cabbage,

80

POULTRY SENSE.

turnips, mangles, swiss chard, let-
tuce, etec., some one can be had at
small cost.

Marketing the Eggs

You should endeavor to dispose
of these to private families, or, in
other words, direct to the con-
sumers. If this is impossible then
stores or commission men; the
latter has not always acted square-
ly with the farmer, but there are
those who will deal right with you
and give fair prices, but it is better
to eliminate the middle man and
thereby save his profit, and give
the consumer fresher and _ better
egos. And right here let me sug-
gest to the poultry men, dairymen
and general farmer, the advantage

81

POULTRY SENSE.

of selling their products direct to
the consumer.

All farmers raise more or less
poultry and have various kinds of
vegetables and foodstuffs to sell,
and if they had a central station
or distributing centre to which
they could send their eggs, milk,
fruit, and vegetables, to be disposed
of to the consumer or merchant by
their own agent, they would make
both the middleman’s and retailer’s
profit; this could be very easily han-
dled if the counties were divided
in sections or districts, each district
having its distributing centre or
exchange. Each district would
have its club or organization which
would select their agent to super-
vise the selling of their products
from the exchanges.

82

POULTRY SENSE.

They should advertise the fact
that they will sell direct to the
people and guarantee fresh, clean
provisions; in this way they would
get the highest price possible for
all the foodstuffs they could raise
and the consumer get much better
provisions at a little less cost.
I say much better, as you well
know at present the poultry men
and farmer keeps his produce until
he has enough to pay him to sell.
At the present low price for his
products and the high price for
labor, he cannot afford to ship
more than once every week or two, .
when, if he had a central station,
he could ship every day at less
expense, as the shipment would be
made by all in the section by their
club agent.

83

POULTRY SENSE.

The middleman, in disposing of
the farmer’s produce, is nothing
more or less than a leech.

Get Rid of the Leech

Until this idea prevails we shall
have to follow the usual course.

Eggs should be cleaned and
assorted according to size and
color and never sell your private
trade a small or badly shaped
ego. Poultry may be disposed of
in a like manner, dry picked bring-
ing the best price.

In selling stock for breeding,
or eggs for hatching, be HONEST.
Send your customer full value for
his money; don’t send a bird or
egos that are not what you would
be willing to accept at the same
price; see that your eggs are care-

84

POULTRY SENSE.

fully packed and that the birds
are well crated and free from ver-
min.

In advertising pon’r misrepre-
sent your stock, for if you do you
will only sell to that customer
once.

Pouliry Diseases

It would seem at first glance
that this is a very important sub-
yect, and yet when seriously con-
sidered, the treatment of diseased
fowls is of minor importance, com-
pared to prevention of disease or
prophylactic measures.

It is important to know how to
care for and treat a few of the
more common ailments, such as
catarrhal colds, bowel trouble,

85

POULTRY SENSE.

chicken-pox, bumble foot and per-

haps sore throat and croup (roup).

We are of the opinion that a
very sick chicken is of very little

consequence, either as an egg-
producer, breeder or show bird,

and certainly should never be

sent to the market.

Marasmus, tuberculosis, croup,
cholera, ete., are constitutional dis-
eases, and when a fowl becomes

seriously ill, it should be decapi-

tated at once.

Catarrhal Colds of
Head

Let us consider catarrhal dis-
turbances. ‘This may affect the
naries, (nose), eyes, throat or bron-
chi (it is very often classed as
roup), in that the discharge from
86 |

a a IO a a eT

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1
1
ity
i
mi
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4
j
;,

POULTRY SENSE. |
the nose at the time has a decided
odor and becomes viscid, tena-
cious or thick and sticky; the eyes
may become involved, which is
only natural, when you consider
there is a canal leading from it
into the nose, and when the mem-
branes of the nose are swollen
and the chicken can no longer
breathe through same, they often
blow mucus up through the lachry-
mal canal into the eyes, or I
should say between the lids and
the eye-ball; this infects the mem-
brane of the same, and they begin
to water and swell up, unless
properly treated at this time, the
cornea of the eye (the pupil)

becomes inflamed (keratitis) and —

finally ulcerates, the tissue breaks
down and the viterous humor,

87

POULTRY SENSE.

etc., runs out, the eye is destroyed,
or the throat becomes affected and
covered with a yellow cheesy de-
posit which is very offensive, or
the entrance of the trachea (wind-
pipe) becomes ulcerated and cover-
ed with a thick yellowish deposit,
and you have roup and ulcerated
sore throat (called by some diph-
theria), although I have never
gotten a diphtheretic culture from
the same.

Prophylactic Measures

Now what are we going to do
for this, either in the first stages
or to prevent it? We will first
consider the prophylactic measures.
See that the poultry house is sani-
tary, dry and free from draughts;
if‘this is right, then poet there

88

POULTRY SENSE.

are too many birds in the pen and
they are crowded on the perches;
if not, and the water and feed are
clean, then it must be due to
weather changes, or some _ bird
from another source has brought
it to your birds. Fumigate and
disinfect at once and often. You
should be very careful, if buying
stock, to put them in quarantine
for a while, until you are sure —
there is nothing wrong, and that
they are free from vermin before
you put them in a pen with your

birds.

Treatment of Cold in
Head
Upon the very first sign or
evidence that a bird has a cold, or
89

POULTRY SENSE.

is not well, remove to a coop by
itself, or 1t may be perhaps that
your flock is more or less affected
before you discover there is any-
thing wrong.

In the first instance, if the bird
is sneezing, has a thin watery

discharge from the nose give it

Allium Cepa 8x or Arsenicum Alb.
3x.; if there is watery discharge
from the eye give Euphrasia, 3x.;
if the discharge is thick and sticky
and from nose give Mercurius
Vivus 3x. or Hepar Sulphur 3x.,

particularly if there is a bad

odor.

These medicines are given as
follows: If only a few birds are
affected, medicate some pellets
(sugar pellets), such as you get at a

90

POULTRY SENSE.

Homoeopathic druggist or Doctor)
and give three or four to each bird
three times daily; if the entire pen
is more or less sick, put twenty-five
drops in about one quart of water
and use this to moisten some
mash; give it two or three times
per day, giving just enough so
that each bird gets about a table-
spoonful.

All of the drugs mentioned above ~

are liquid, except Mercurius and
Hepar Sulphur; they are powder or
flat discs, so you can dissolve
twenty to about the same amount
of water; have it warm and use
to mix the mash or give one disc
per dose.
Roup

If your bird has sore mouth,

swollen head, and there is an odor

91

POULTRY SENSE.

to the breath, you have roup sure,
and you can give Spongia 3x. and
Mercurius Vivus 3x., four doses
per day, in mash, drinking water,
or let them take it as they lke.
If you have time to spare, medicate
some pellets with Spongia 3x.
(3 pellets per dose), give every two
hours, alternating with Merc. Vivus
8x. (1 disc), and your bird will
recover, if anything will cure it.

We believe in using the axe in
such cases and disinfecting two
or three times before another bird
is placed in the same place.

Sore Throat

In case sore throat is the first
thing noticed, the trachea nearly
closed at top with a yellowish

Ba cy

POULTRY SENSE.

deposit; the latter should be re-
moved with a thin stick, on which
cotton is wound (tooth-pick will
answer); moisten with thin oil and
peroxide, equal parts, and swab out;
then give Mercurius Iod. 2x. As
an oil to drop in the nose or force in
with a dropper, we use Enzymol,
one part, and Peroxide of Hydrogen,
one part; shake this well before
_ dropping into the nose; this can be |
used in all catarrhal colds in con-
junction with medicine, and give
the flock Permanganate of Potash
in their water, enough to give a
decided purplish tinge to the same,
of one to a thousand solution; or
camphor tincture can be placed
in the drinking water, twenty-five
drops per quart. Bichloride of
mercury one to a thousand, is
93

POULTRY SENSE.

excellent, using one ounce per
quart of water.

Diarrhcea in Chicks

The evidence of bowel trouble
in the little chicks, if first noticed
by the discharges sticking on the
down at the stern of the chick.
Give Ipecacuanha 3x., or Chamo-
milla 3x., either alternate or alone;
give 20 drops to a pint in the drink-
ing water every time you give them
fresh water, or Bichloride of Mer-
cury, one to a thousand, one ounce
in pint of drinking water.

Ii the discharge is bloody or
white, give Mercurius Sub. Cor.
9x., eight tablets in a half pint of
water, or boiled milk and Arseni-
cum lod. 3x., eight drops, as before,
in boiled milk or water.

94

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POULTRY SENSE.

The experiment stations men-
tion the use of sulpho carbolates
comp. in such bowel troubles and
diarrhoea in matured poultry, put
in drinking water.

Diarrheea in Old
Chickens

In case they stand around all
in a heap and the excretions are
thin and watery, give Veratrum ~
Alb. 8x. or Arsenicum Alb. 8x.
three pellets per dose or twenty-
five drops per quart of water or
boiled milk; the latter is the better
when you have it.

If diarrhoea is green, give Ipecac-
uanha 2x., or Arsenicum Iod. 2x.
If bloody, and the chicken drops
its wings, etc., Mercurius Sub.

Cor. 2x.

95

POULTRY SENSE.

Limber Neck

Limber neck, or when the
chicken has a greenish diarrhoea,
the neck stretches out as long as
possible and the beak almost
touches the ground, the fowl stands
around, give Nux Vomica 3x, and
Ipecacuanha 3x.; when the chicken
acts dizzy and the head is twisted
around on one side and falls down,
give Belladonna 3x.

Bumble Foot

This is the bruising of the soft
tissues of the bottom of the feet
and an abscess forms, or the peri-

osteum, which is the membrane

surrounding the bone, is involved

and pus forms (this resembles a

felon on the finger), cut down,
96

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————E~~

Seis a eS OE

Pe

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= SSS Saget: ee IS eee SSS

POULTRY SENSE.

let out pus and dress with iodoform
gauze or powdered boracic acid.

If the bone of the foot is in-
volved, cut down to it and scrape
it, dress as before; use a bandage
to keep the dirt out and give
Hepar Sulph. 3x., one tablet two
or three times per day or alternate
with Calearea Fluorica 6x.; this
will eventually cure.

Frosted Comb

If possible apply snow or ice
to the frozen comb until the frost
is out of it, then cover with
carbolated vaseline. |

Scaly Legs

Carbolated vaseline can be rub-

bed on after the legs have been

soaked in bichloride, 1 to 1000, for
from five to ten minutes.

97

POULTRY SENSE.

Chicken Pox

‘This is a cutaneous disease, and
manifests itself by sores or blotches
on comb and wattles, head or
under the wings; may form pus-
tules. :

Quarantine and disinfect the
pen from which the bird came;
give Arsenicum 8x. and Rhus Tox.
3x., alternating, three pellets every
two hours.

Or, in case a number are af-
fected, put twenty drops of Arseni-
cum Album 3x. in one pint of
water, moisten some mash and
give just what will be eaten up in
three minutes and in two hours
prepare the Rhus Tox in the same
way and give in alternation every
two hours.

98

POULTRY SENSE.

Asthma

Difficult breathing,with blueness

of comb and face, due to being fat
or heart trouble, require Corallium

Rubrum, Arsenicum Alb. or Spon-
gia in 3x., three pellets every two
or three hours.

This must not be confused with

bronchitis.

Bronchitis

Cold in the bronchial tubes,

with rattling of mucus and cough,
may be acute or chronic, some-

times called rattles.
Give Ipecacuanha 3x. Antimon-

jum Tart. 3x. Ammoniacum 8x.

is especially good for the chronic

form, also Senega 3x.

99

POULTRY SENSE.

Molting

If your chicks are not molting
properly, add oil meal to their
mash and some sunflower seed to
their grain, also give milk in which
there is a little extra salt and
Calcarea Carb. 3x. and Phosphate

of Iron in the water.

Crop-Bound

Give a tablespoonful cf olive
or cottonseed oil for a matured
bird and a dessert spoonful for a
chick.

If this does not relieve, cut a

slit in the skin over the crop about»

one and a half inches long (length-

wise with the body), grasp the

crop and cut a slit about one inch

in the same, running same way,
100

POULTRY SENSE.

remove contents, sew up the slit
in the crop with a clean white silk
thread, then the slit in the skin
over the crop. Do NOT SEW THEM
UP TOGETHER. |

‘The bird should be fed soft feed
for about three days when it
usually recovers.

Epidemic Conjunc-
tivitis
(Pink Eye)

An inflammation of the conjunc-
tivia, or membrane lining the
eye lids and covering the white
of the eye ball, this is due to a
small Bacillus and causes the eye
to become red, swollen, and to
discharge a watery, ie fluid
which will reproduce the disease
in another eye if it gets into it.

101

POULTRY SENSE.

Give cooling feed, sprouted
grains, green feeds of all kinds,
and mash. |

Bathe the eye with one to one
thousand of Bichloride of Mercury
or saturated solution of Boracic
Acid, by dropping three to four
drops in each eye after which put
in a little Yellow Oxide (Mercury

ointment) a piece about the size

of a number six shot.

Give Euphrasia 3x. if the eye
is greatly swollen and if there is an
acrid watery discharge.

Pulsatilla 3x. if the use

is thick and forms pus.
Rhus Tox. 3x. for simple con-

junctivitis without much swelling,
but with a watery discharge; ulcers

of the cornea (the pupil), hen
keeps eye closed. ,
102

POULTRY SENSE.

Egg-Bound

This is due to over feeding’ (too
fat) or foreing egg production.

Give soothe: feed (green feed
and sprouted grains), no whole or
cracked grains for a while.

Anoint the finger with vaseline
and remove the egg; if too large,
break it and remove it in pieces;
same procedure for broken eggs;
give Pulsatilla 3x. :

Soft-shelled, large and poorly-
shaped eggs are due to the same
cause and lack of lime; Bie Cal-
carea Carb. 3x.

For bloody egos, or ae on

shells, give Pulsatilla 3x.

Gapes
This is due to a little red worm,
supposed to be developed from a
103

POULTRY SENSE.

small parasite found in earth-
worms.

The Germans, however, believe
it develops in the chick, which has
eaten something containing the
spore of the worm (an insect) and
that certain localities are more
frequently infected with its source
than others.

Chicks up to two months old are
victims and should be kept out of
the wet grass and rain until they
have"passed the danger point (ten
weeks).

Infected ground must be treated
with lime in order to destroy the
infection. |

The worm should be removed
with a twisted horse-hair, or
stripped feather to within half an
inch of the end; dip the feather

104

POULTRY SENSE.

into kerosene before using same,
or drop three drops of kerosene
into the trachea (windpipe).

Cina 3x. given in the drinking
water as per dictum under reme-
dies. |

Just one word about the drugs —
mentioned in this book.

They can be purchased of any
Homeopathic Pharmacy or Doctor.

Some can be had at any drug
store, such as Permanganate and
Bichloride of Mercury, Alboline, -
Carbolic Acid, Flowers of Sulphur.

Remedies or medicines mention-
ed in this little book are to be
given in 3x. unless otherwise men-
tioned. |

If liquid, put twenty drops per
quart of drinking water, or medi-
cate number 30 pellets by drop-

105

POULTRY SENSE.

ping ten drops on a two drachm
vial full of pellets and give three
to the bird two or three times per
day.

If powder, put eight grains in
one quart of drinking water, or
two discs two or three times per
day. |

By alternating the drugs, we
mean give one (as Arsenicum) at
one time and the other at the other
(as Allium Cepa) at the next dose.

For instance, if you commenced

giving Allium Cepa at 7 A. M..

Arsenicum at 9, Allium Cepa at
11, Arsenicum Alb. at 1 P. M. and
so on.

For making your Permanganate
of Potash you can get a one quart
bottle and put 14 grains into it, then
fill same with water; this can be

106

Fa ra > — —
a aS eae Se PS SS

POULTRY SENSE.

your stock bottle used for putting
in the fonts.

If birds have colds, we some-
times add half an ounce of Am-
monium Carb. 2x.

Improving the Strain

When introducing new blood,
the following has proven the best,
particularly if you desire to retain
the type and laying re aya of
your own stock.

Purchase a first-class hen (year-
hng) from a breeder who has a
strain known to be good for egg
production and of excellent color,
breed her to your best type year-
old cock out of your heavy laying
hens; the result of the mating

107

POULTRY SENSE.

must be watched and the best
laying pullet bred back to its sire,
and a cockerel from this mating
used in the breeding pen the
following season.

Keeping the Stamina
and Vigor in the Strain

By breeding the daughters, grand
daughters or great-grand-daugh-
ters to the sire or grand sire, each
time selecting the strongest, best
type and layers, will improve the
high qualities of the strain beyond
that of the original sire and dam.

Breeding the dam or grand-
dams to sons which are vigorous
and most closely resemble the dam
or grand-dam one can maintain
beauty, color and vigor, and by
mating a cockerel bred from the

108

POULTRY SENSE.

daughter or grand-daughter of the
original sire, by him or his sire,
to a hen, daughter of the grand-
dam or great-grand-dam of origi-

nal dam, you retain vigor, quality

and beauty.

This can be continued indefi-
nitely, if a close record is kept of

the breeding.

Hiow Karly Breeders
Maintained Vigor

Columbella was perhaps the
most scientific breeder and poultry
expert of his day and kept records
of his breeding pens, bred for type,
color, vigor and egs production.
He usually allowed about twelve
hens to a cock.

Parmentier, the French breeder,
109

POULTRY SENSE.

allowed fifteen to twenty females

to each cock.

Mowbray allowed four or five
hens during cold weather, and
Nolon believed that to secure fine
large, strong specimens, one should
use a two-year old cock with not
more than five yearlings or two
year old hens.

110

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POULTRY SENSE.

Anni’ s

Don’t feed your breeding hens
too much soft feed, a variety of
grains thrown in the litter keeps
them active and strong.

Don’t breed brothers and sisters,
unless you want to produce ban-
tams.

Don’t forget plenty of green
feed, especially for the breeding
pens; assists digestion and _ in-
creases the fertility.

Don’t forget that daughters bred
to sire or grand-sire make good,
strong, healthy chicks, or grand-

111

POULTRY SENSE.

_ dams or dams bred to sons do like-
wise.

Don’t forget that the dam gives
the size and the sire the color.

Don’t forget that two defects
bred together emphasize that de-
feet. | |

Hard feathered birds do bes
on more grains, soft feathered on
soft feed.

Don’T FORGET TO FUMIGATE
OFTEN, WINTER AND SUMMER.

Don’t forget to have plenty of
litter in which to throw your grains.
Busy chickens means health and
eggs.

Don’t breed to puilets, unless
they are fully matured and at
least ten months old; the same
applies to cockerels.

112

POULTRY SENSE.
Don’T GET IN A HURRY—GO
SLOW.
First make a success of your
unit plant, before adding more.

- Don’t forget that poultry intend-
ed for the market should fast at
least twelve hours before killing.

Don’t put your show birds right
back in the coop upon their return
from the show, but in a pen by
themselves, so you may watch for
symptoms of disease or lice and
keep the temperature about fifty
degrees for a day or two.

DoNn’T RAISE VERMIN; IT DOESN T
PAY.

Don’t keep the weaklings and
immature stock; if possible, fatten
them or place them on the guillo-
tine.

118

POULTRY SENSE.

Don’? FORGET THAT MILK-FED
FOWLS BRING THE BEST PRICE.

Don’t buy cheap eggs and stock.

Don’t OVERCROWD, IF YOU WANT
EGGS AND NO COLDS.

Don’t forget to use plenty of
louse powder and use it OFTEN.

Don’t forget to keep the house
dark in which you are crate feeding
the fattening stock. This is a
case of EAT, SLEEP AND GROW FAT.

Don’? FORGET TO PAINT THE
PERCHES with carbolic acid, ninety
per cent. one part to three of
gasoline. |
- Don’t place your chicks on the
same ground every year or let
the coops get wet inside.

114

ee a ee ee eee ~~

POULTRY SENSE.

Don’t MEDDLE WITH THE INCU-
BATOR, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE
HATCH IS COMING OFF.

Don’t forget to train your birds;
this means posing or placing them
in the same position of this breed,
as shown in the STANDARD OF PER-
FECTION.

Don’t send dirty birds to the
show room or to your customer.

Don’T FORGET THAT LIGHT AND
SUNSHINE ARE IMPORTANT IN THE
HEN HOUSE, THE MORE THE BETTER.

Don’t forget to have a double
floor in your hen houses and
brooders. :

Don’t forget to watch the tem-
perature in your preoder, look at
it often.

115

POULTRY SENSE.

Don’t forget ten drops of Car-
bolic Acid to a quart of drinking
water, once a day for the first
week, will prevent bowel trouble.

Don’t forget that alfalfa meal
or cut clover, preferably white
clover, added to the dry mash in
winter increases the egg yield.

Don’t forget to ISOLATE ALL

SICK BIRDS. This is the very first
step to take. :

AND, LASTLY, DONT FORGET
THAT YOUR WIFE WOULD LIKE TO
HAVE A CHICKEN TO COOK ONCE

IN A WHILE.

Wz

116

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- POULTRY SENSE.

Materia Medica

Autium CEPA.
Cold in head, with acrid dis-

charge from nose and eyes, keeps

eyes closed, so as to protect same

from light. |
AMMONIACUM.

Difficult breathing, chronic bron-
chial catarrh, accumulation of pur-
ulent mucus in windpipe, rattling
in same.

AMMONIUM CARB.

Cold in head, takes cold easily,
discharge of burning water from
nose which stops during night,
but worse next day.

117

POULTRY SENSE.

Long-continued discharge from
nose, snuffles, ulcerations of throat,
swelling of same, tongue sore and
breathing loud.

ARSENICUM ALBUM.

Thin watery discharge from nose
and eyes, latter red and swollen.

Mouth and tongue sore, sore
spots on head, discharge of watery
offensive substance from bowels,
loss of strength, drinks often.

ARSENICUM IoDATUM.

Discharge from nose sticky, eyes
swollen and vicid discharge, sneez-
ing, ulcers on tongue and sides of
mouth, difficult breathing. |

Fainful discharge from bowels,
offensive, dark and bloody. Chol-
era. :

118

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POULTRY SENSE.

BELLADONNA.
Vertigo, falling to side or back-
ward, spasms, greenish discharge

_ from bowels, swelling of neck and
throat.

CALCAREA CARBONICA.
(CARBONATE OF LIME)
_ Where there is slow feathering,
deformed eggs or soft shelled eggs,
assists molting. In developing
feathers, bone and egg shells.

CALCAREA F'LUORICA.

(Fivoripe or Live) —
Ulceration of bowels, swollen
neck and bumble foot.

CALCAREA PHOSPHORICA.

(PHOSPHATE oF Limz)
Assists molting, leg weakness.

119

POULTRY SENSE.

CAMPHORIA.
(CAMPHOR)

Cold in head (early stage) sneez-
ing, constantly catching cold.
Cholera.

CHAMOMILLA.

Diarrhoea in little chicks, pasted
up on vent, given with Podophyl-
lum in alternation.

CHINA OFF.

Thin discharge from _ bowels,
weak, acts as tonic.

Given to revive chicks who have
been out in rain storm or cold,
with a little Capsicum; put this in
water and drop in throat.

IPECACUANHA.

Diarrhoea, green discharge. Rat-
tling in throat. |
120

POULTRY SENSE.

Kati BicHRomMIcum. —

(BIcHROMATE OF PoTASH)

Cold in head, discharge thick
and stringy, ulcerated sore throat.
Diphtheria, cheesy deposits in
throat. |
One drachm to a quart of drink-
ing water, to protect the flock.

Kart PERMANGANICUM.
(PERMANGANATE OF PorasH)

Intense irritation of nose, throat
and larynx. |

Diphtheria, throat swollen ‘al
covered with cheesy matter.

One drachm to a quart of water;
good mixture to put into drinking
water to prevent the spreading of
disease to rest of flock.

121

POULTRY SENSE.

MERcURIUS CORROSIVUS.
(BicHLoRIDE or MERcuRy)
Excoriating discharge from eyes
and nose, sore tongue.

Bloody discharge from bowels, -

white diarrhoea, straining with pro-

lapses of bowel, discharge liquid

and irritating.

Nux Vomica.
Leg weakness and constipation.

PODOPHYLLUM.

Thin discharge from _ bowels,
diarrhoea matting down on vent,
congestion of liver.

PULSATILLA.
Thick, profuse yellow, bland

discharge from the eye or nose.
Blood in egg, or on shell, egg
bound.

122

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- POULTRY SENSE.

Ruvs Tox.
Eves swollen, red, acrid watery
discharge from eye, keeps eyes

closed.

Ulceration of the cornea ( pupil).

SENEGA.
Chronic bronchitis, difficult to
dislodge mucus, rattling in throat.
SPONGIA.

Cold in head, swelling of eyes,
discharge from nose, rattling of
throat. i |

_ The ideal roup remedy. »

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123

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