i
‘SF 487 me
‘ "| POULTRY YARD,
HOW TO FURNISH AND MANAGE IT.
AUTRE ATISS
| FOR THE AMATEUR POULTRY RAISER AND FARMER
| 3 ON THE . |
MANAGEMENT OF POULTRY,
Perret rt teeter tr rs
reer errr Perr ret titres sy
7 BY | ,
WwW. ATLEE BURPEE.
AUTHOR OF THE PIGEON LOFT.
ar ert tek Pode ee a eh de ek ee kl ee ek Pe
PHALADEL PHDA, . BA.
AS gay
he National Agriculty wrist
AND WORKING FARMER.
Established 1847. United 1875.
A large double quarto, 16-page illustrated family paper, (Na- —
tional Agriculturist and Bee Journal and Working Farmer
cousolidated). It treats of)stock raising, sheep husbandry,
dairy business, swine, poultry, gardening and fruit growing,
besides the elaborate departments of Bee-Culture, Ladies’ or
Home and Fireside, and Youth’s Departments; a first-class
Family Paper, interesting, instructive, making young eyes
sparkle and old hearts glad.
Large Cash Commission to Agents, or valuable premiums
given.
Try it six months for 55 cents, or $1.10 a year, postpaid.
Send to /
WM. L. ALLISON, 128 Nassau St. N. Y.. /
The Western Fanciers’ ,
POULTRY JOURNAL
AND STOCK BREEDERS’ RE VIEW,
Minneapolis, Minn.
The only Organ of Poultry Fanciers in the Western half of
the United States.
T. T. BACHBLOR, - Epirox.
This large, three-column Poultry journal circulates every-—
where, but its special field is the great West, where the interest
in pure-bred Fowls is increasing very rapidly. A special de-
partment for Stock Notes will be well filled in every issue.- A
splendid advertising medium. Rates very low. Subscriptions
$1.25 per year. Sample copies 12 cents. Agents wanted.
Poultry Cuts and Fanciers’ job printing a specialty. Corres-
podence solicited.
“
sor
*
who ty,
v4
S58S5443
ql
li
Morbi
Jy
DANA
THE POULTRY YAR,
HOW TO FURNISH AND MANAGE IT.
A TREATISE FOR THE AMATEUR POULTRY RAISER AND FARMER
ON THE
MANAGEMENT OF POULTRY,
THE DIFFERENT BREEDS.
BY
We ATLEE BURPEE,
AUTHOR OF THE PIGEON LOFT:
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
1 Sinz
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1876, by
W. ATLEE BURPEE,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C.
u | PREFACK.
Ww
The favorable reception of “ The Pigeon Loft ; how to
Furnish and Manage it ;” published May, 1875, and the
large demand for it,together with numerous inquiries, have
induced us to prepare the present treatise on Poultry, in
the same form and at the same price. We lay no claims
to entire originality in this work. All breeders meet
with much the same experience, and it has been our aim
to compile from all reliable sources, a concise treatise,
at a low price, giving instructions to beginners. We
have not attempted an elaborate description of the breeds
of poultry, only endeavoring to state their respective me-
rits and demerits, and thus enable every amateur to an-
swer for himself the oft repeated question ‘“‘ which breed
pays the best.’”?> We would express our indebtedness for
valuable hints especially to The Poultry World, The Poul-
try Nation, and Wright’s Mustrated Book of Poultry.
Wc Be
Philadelphia, March, 1877.
a +h; 3% a we? |
egies rhe
ke Sl Boy Git ene ioe ky Lee
& =f | or ahs | a - 4t) ath} ey JOH. SMart
ac at eae |
reek Mt} SUE ULEL ATE TP RE ees) oF Bye Bigger lye Saar
hepa pivhtenicen' cy cE eke eee at ee ee
: ME SPEAR OS CP DER tet
, , rh Bs ok LA yn he :
' 7 Ps i - y =~ , *®. - mS ?
‘ ; PLAT | If Seetel Cio) er eor 1
’ ens edn tia ees!
. anette
% ; , a “a . a Oe
O84 Bhi) 1 eS Bie ie siiiie 0
Ow He seer shia lst tae iit bolt tates +t
SBTaniiveder: « (OEGTIBOLT Th Tavis
. We ery ;
. Pov
. ‘ i
i
‘
aad om |
? F; -
.
\ y af rae a5 <4 £ or
; ees ter, «
oF Jona tenn
i
va ft a oe , rie > meres oe { "
en ‘tines = ol Noe evi ae eb)! sot M oe i ee 3
Me ats ese oN aA mye f pacman 1S: io
hae 2a. = Nel, be re oad ee 2 7
i: ls the ! ~ a
foe POULTRY YARD:
HOW TO FURNISH AND MANAGE IT.
Poultry Houses.
Wherever practicable it is preferable to allow fowls
entire liberty. Thereby they have abundant muscular
exercise, can range at will over wheat stubbles, gathering
many a worm, and are kept in the highest degree of
health. When thus kept,as is the universal custom
ot farmers, they must not, however, be allowed to
“shift ” for themselves, roosting on the trees or wherever
they choose. No well-to-do farmer would allow his sheep
or pigs torun at random without proper stabling or pens.
It is none the less necessary to success in raising fowls
that the same attention should be paid to them. It
does not pay to constantly clean up the implements,
wagons, ete., on which the fowls have passed the night.
4A farmer cannot afford to lose the droppings of his
fowls, as there is no more valuable manure in the world.
A thrifty breeder cannot afford the time to hunt over
hay mows, under pig pens and amongst the shrubbery for
hens’ nests—perhaps only to tind the eggs when spoiled
by incubation. For these and other evident reasons
poultry should have a house set apart especially for their
wants, They do not require a large or expensive build-
ing. A building ten or twelve feet square is large
enough tor a flock of twenty fowls. The building should
be about seven feet in height and should face the south.
The roof should be perfectly water proof and the sides free
from any cracks or crevices to admit draughts of air. The
front, if in a warm climate, can be made of slats, when
.
8 THE POULTRY YARD ; HOW TO
abundant ventilation will be allowed. If the winters are
severe it should be entirely closed in front excepting a
small hole for the entrance and exit of fowls and a suita-
ble opening for ventilation at the top. This latter can
be accomplished by simply boring a considerable number
of augur holes near together, or leaving an opening pro-
tected by slats arranged after the fashion of Venetian
blinds. A suitable door must of course be made for the
entrance of the keeper. The house must be situated upon
high ground and the floor always dry. Many styles of
poultry houses are in use, and the reader can easily 1n-
vent one to suit his own taste and surroundings. For
half a dozen fowls a very small house only is necessary.
Unless protected, the entrance hole for the fowls will
admit a great deal of cold air. For the following
simple arrangement we are indebted to the Pouliry
Nation :—
“Place a box in front of the outlet, tight up against the
side of the house, leaving a hole at either end next the
building. Slanting a board from the ground to the top
of the box in front of the hole, to break the wind in that
direction, you have a house as near wind-proof as though
it were entirely closed. If possible, pile manure, straw,
gravel, or anything you might happen to have handy,
around the box, thus keeping the wind out of the cracks
aud making the house warmer.”
The interior of the house should be fitted up with
roosts and nests. The roosts should all be on the same
level to prevent fighting for the highest place. They
should not be more than eighteen inches or two feet from
the ground for large fowls, and should be suticiently
wide. A good plan is to arrange the nests on the floor
under the roosts, protected by a board which will collect
the droppings and which can be readily scraped off.
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 9
When we published the ‘“‘American Fanciers’ Gazette,”
we received a communication on nesting places from an .
experienced fancier under the nom de plume of ‘‘Ama- -
teur,” from which we give the following extract :— ,
‘In almost every plan for the construction of a poultry:
house an elaborate row of boxes is introduced, cun-
ningly devised with a darkened rear passage, favoring.
the secresy which mistress Biddy, it is well-known, takes
delight in, and who, once ensconced therein, finds every-
thing lovely and serene. But there is one fatal objection
to this symmetrical arrangement, according to my expe- |
rience, which is this—the liability of mistaking the nests _
and the confusion and loss resulting therefrom. |
I have adopted for years the plan of having movable_
boxes placed on brackets, elevated from one to three feet
from the ground. They should be painted in different
colors, if possible, so that the hen easily distinguishes her
own from others. Nothing could induce me to return to
the plan of stationary boxes, as my losses from mistakes —
have been next to nothing since I adopted this plan of
movable nests. A cover of coarse wire netting placed
over the sitting hen during the first few days of incuba-
tion, will prevent any disturbance afterwards almost
certainly.”
It the fowls are kept in confinement, or have no other |
shelter, they should be furnished with a covered run for
wet weather. Cleanliness is all impor tant, and it is Foul
management indeed to allow a stench to arise in the
fowl ‘house, rendering the very air the fowls breathe
impure and creating the presence of the chickens’ mortal
enemy—vermin. ‘The roosts should be scraped, the drop-
pings removed, and a little fresh ashes, gravel or loam
strewn on the floor every morning. Also the nesting
material should be changed whenever occasion requires.
i0 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
The interior of the house, the nests and the perches
should all be thoroughly whitewashed every spring and
fall. No harbor should be presented for vermin, and the
air must always be pure. If fowls are confined in a yard
the ground should also be frequently raked and oceasion-
ally dug or plowed over.
In constructing the nests, we have already mentioned,
it will be well to remember that several hens will fre-
quently lay in the same nest and consequently a smaller
number of nests are necessary. Ilens should not be set
in the roosting and laying house. Some writers recom-
mend a separate house for setting hens,and where poultry
are raised in very large numbers this doubtless is desira-
ble, but for the ordinary farmer is entirely unnecessary.
The hens can be set on the hay mow, in the barn, wagon-
house, an unused stall or any place where they will be
quiet: and undisturbed.
In breeding several yards of fancy poultry, the usual
plan is to make a straight house with yards extending
out the entire length and separated by slat fences. This
will answer, but is open to the objection that the cocks
will occasionally fight through the rails unless the fence
is solid at the base, and if ever one slat should fall off
woe to the pure breds! A very simple plan for a breeder
of several varieties is to give them each a small, separate
house and yard situated in different parts of the ground.
When the yard space allotted is very small a movable
fence can be used, and then the fowls can at any time be.
transferred to fresh pasturage.
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT7. ei
Selection and Mating of Stock.
—
In selecting fancy stock of course the standard must
be followed and only the best and most nearly perfect °
specimens of their kind retained—prow/ded they are all
suited to each other. No hen should have the same faults
as the cock. If one is faulty in a certain point, the other
should be especially good in that particular so as to
counteract the bad impress upon the offspring. Experi-
ence with each breed must teach the fancier the ‘best
birds to retain for breeding. Often a bird that is not up
to the standard—and sometimes even a disqualifled bird
is desirable in the breeding yard, nay, of the highest
importance—for instance, in breeding Leghorns a straight
comb hen is invaluable to raise the tinest and most erect
combs on cockerels. So a spotted breasted Dark Brahma’
and Brown Leghorn cock will produce the most beauti-
ful pencilled pullets. We remember seeing a communi-
cation in one of the poultry journals by the late Mr. J. W-
P. Hovey, in which he stated the case of a friend who
ordered a trio of Brahmas, at a high price, mated for
breeding, from a celebrated English breeder, and who was
disgusted at receiving a poor looking trio of birds whose
equals in looks could have been purchased anywhere at
$2.00 a head! But appearances are deceitful and bload’
will tell, as was proven by the result. From that trio
sprung noted prize birds. And so it is, the skillful
breeder knows how to mate his birds to produce the best
offspring. Amateurs in starting make a great mistake
in purchasing exhibition birds (as birds matched for exhi-
bition are seldom rightly mated for breeding), or in pur-
12 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
chasing low priced birds from unknown sources. The
best plan is to send the price of a pair or trio of breeding
birds to a responsible breeder who has a_ reputa-
tion to maintain, and state plainly that you want
birds whose progeny will speak their praises. In nine
cases out of ten you will be satisfied not only in the birds
received but in the chicks they breed. In mating fowls
it is generally believed the hen affects mostly the size
and form, and the cock the plumage and markings of the
chicks. If a choice can be had it is preferred to mate a
cock (over one year old) with spring pullets. Be sure
you select a good vigorous cock and the one who is the
‘boss rooster.” One cock will readily serve eighteen or
twenty hens of the large breeds and twenty four to thirty
hens of the small breeds
This has been our experience and we first expressed our
views on this subject in an editorial in the ‘‘ American
Fanciers’ Gazette.” Instead of meeting the opposition we
might have anticipated from ‘ book fanciers’ who had
followed the laws of four to six hens to one cock as laid
down by other authors we received several long letters
giving experience strongly confirming ourown. A good
cock with a small number of hens will only worry and
annoy them, often injuring them. With a large number
of hens as stated, some of the hens will of course gener-
ally be sitting. This ratio of hens applies to small flocks
of fowls ; where the number is multiplied there should be
rather a less proportion of hens, as the majority of the
work will devolve upon the “cocks of the roost.’ In
®electing the hens those of the greatest utility only should
be used. If layers are desired, prove by actual count
which individual hens lay the most eggsand retain them-
If size and early maturity, select the fowls most nearly
perfect in these respects. Remember that fat is prejult
——
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 18
cial to health and success with breeding fowls, If is not
weight but a large form—a capacity to take on flesh that
makes Jarge chicks. See to it that the fowls do not breed
large legs and necks—look to the greatest development of
the most palatable parts. Raise fowls of bright, yellow
skin and legs. These latter remarks are especially intended
tor the market poulterer, and we will only add that no
onecan realize the great improvement possible in even
“dung-hills ” by following up the “survival of the fit-
test.” We cannot make monkeys into men, life is too
short for that, but we can vastly improve the condition
and value of our poultry. One of our farmers by a source
of judicious mating and selecting of mongrel breeding stock
so well established a strain of large, well-bred fowls, that
he was able to dispose of his surplus stock to dealers at
$5.00 a pair. There is no need of the farmer of to day
wasting tedious years in the improvement of his barnyard
fowls, when for five or ten dollars outlay in the purchase of
a cock or pair of pure bred fowls he can avail himself of
the labor of others for many years. Poultry should not be
bred in-and-in too much, but judicious in-breeding, to a
certain extent, is necessary to establish a fixed type or
peculiar strain. For ordinary farm use we would recom-
mend the introduction of a thorough bred cock of fresh
blood every second year. Farmers cannot realize what a
wonderful improvement a thoroughbred cock will make
in a flock of mongrel hens, It will not hurt to make one
cross of father with daughter, or of son with mother and
half-sisters. Itis best to kill all hens when two and one-
half years old as soon as they begin to moult. After that
the supply of eggs falls off greatly and it does not pay to
keep them. They can then be sold at a fair compensation.
Do not count your chickens before they are hatched is
all very true, but none the less will an intelligent breeder
14 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
desire to count his chickens before they die,and to do this
with profit the breeding stock should be slaughtered for
market at the age already named.
We will conelude our remarks on mating by the fol-
lowing extract, written by us for the “ American Fan-
ciers’ Gazette,” August, 1875 :—
Luck 1n Matine.—So much has been said and written
about science in breeding, that we propose, by way of vari-
ety, to briefly call the attention of our readers to the
intervention, oftimes, of /uck in mating. . We do not
class ourselves among the believers in mere luck, never-
theless it must be acknowledged that birds mated on the
same system (or oftener perhaps lack of system), will and
to produce diverse results. This, when looked at in one
hight is not luck, but the rational results of nature’s own
laws. However, as far as the breeder is concerned, it is
bound to prove either a lucky or an unlucky match. For
instance, two birds are selected which are as near ap-
proaches to perfection as the art and skill of the breeder
has attained unto; they are mated, and in some eases the
offspring will be satisfactory, in others (and the chances
are about equal,) they will be most unsatisfactory, the
products coming worthless as mongrels. Now, this can
be explained in some cases by the assumption (if the birds
were of different but unknown strains,) that the strains of
which they are members had been bred for different
Tesults, and the one still possessed the fault which had
just been eradicated from the other but of which a ten-
dency remained. Then these two birds possessing an
inherent inclination to like faults, the offspring come
possessed of those faults to a double degree. Again, the
strains being bred for diverse purposes, all the breeder’s
pains are crushed to the ground by this sudden union, and
nature will advocate its power. Now on the other hand
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. is
if these birds are differently mated, they may luckily be
paired to suitable birds, and then become the progenitors
of worthy offspring.
All that we have just now said shows that there is at
bottom, in such eases, although the breeder may be igno-
rant thereof, a natural cause for these lucky or unlucky
results. That such, beyond doubt, is the fact, in nine
eases out of ten of the varied results of promiscuous
matings we are ready to acknowledge. But, on the other
hand, the experienced breeder has, or doubtless will
come across cases which can be explained upon no such
ground. Despite all his care and system in breeding and
mating, results (we do not mean an occasional excep-
tional bird, but regular/y) contrary to the skilled breed-
er’s expectations, will crop out. And then, when the
same birds are mated to other birds of the same blood as
the previous matings, and having like defects and “ fine
points,” vastly different will be the results. Not only so,
but we have known different cases of two birds upon
being mated together proving entirely sterile and unfer-
tile, while both of these birds being put to difterent
mates were perfectly capable of reproducing sound and
healthy offspring. We could particularize cases which
might more vividly illustrate the point at issue, but as
we have already consumed considerable space, we do not
think it necessary, as we can vouch for the truth of the
above statements.
16 THE POULTRY YarRD; HOW TO
What and How to Feed.
It is the general habit of Americans to give their poul-
try corn, corn, corn, morning, noon and night. This
may answer when the fowls have the unlimited range of
a farm and can constantly pick up insects, grubs, worms,
etc., together with scattered grains around the barn
floor, but even then it is very inadvisable. In confine-
ment fowls would soon die on this diet. Corn is too
heating and fattening for breeding purposes. Fowls—
should be fed regularly. They will soon learn the accus-
tomed hours and will employ the intervening time in
hunting for worms, dusting and exercising themselves. |
Where they are at liberty or have a large run, two feeds
a day, morning and evening, are sufficient. It is best to
make the morning meal of soft food, that being most
readily assimilated will the sooner appease their empty
stomachs and break the fast of the night. Boiled potato
peelings, vegetables and scraps mashed up with slightly
scalded bran or meal with a little salt mixed, is an excel-
lent dish for fowls. In winter a little pepper will be
valuable as a seasoning.
Asa soft food the Poultry World recommends a warm
compound of two-thirds wheat bran to one-third meal, wet
with skimmed milk. This food has a good egg producing
effect. The bran does not tend to fat and the milk is
even better than meat in the production of eggs. Fowls
may eat too mnch meat, but milk they may drink
ad libitum, and those who have it cannot put it to a
more profitable use. Fowls should have, like human
beings, a goodly variety of feed. Scraps from the table
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 17
are highly relished. Grain should be fed at night as it
will remain in their crops longest. Corn is the best
‘staple feed for cold weather, as it is very heating and
keeps the fowls in fine condition, but it should not be
fed constantly in summer. Barley, buckwheat, oats,
wheat screenings, cracked corn, rice, ete., are all excel-
lent for a variety. Sunflower seed is invaluable for
poultry and can be grown as cheaply as corn. The
Mammoth Russian is the best and most prolitic. Single
heads which we raised this year will measure one foot in
diameter and are well filled with an immense number of
large plump seeds. Breeding fowls must not be over fed
nor stuffed but only kept in good working order. Beef
scraps can be bought cheap, and are highly beneticial, in
winter especially, also occasionally a boiled sheep’s or calf's
pluck chopped up is recommended In _ concluding
our remarks on the feed of fowls we cannot do better
than append Lewis Wright’s valuable table of the re-
spective constituents of the various grains, ete., generally
used for poultry, from which intelligent poulterers cau
draw their own conclusions :—
TABLE
1 Flesh- iy,,.. ee ae te alegsse
[tnereisin | fovimig [Mammth giving and Fat) Bonnet | aruay |
every 100 parts Materiais PONG ae soa al ee ae hn) OPW ters
BY weight of | ees Fat or Oil. Starch. Substances, Fibre.
Beans & Peas. 25 2 48 bu 8 15
Oatmeal kon. 6 63 py 2 9
Middlings |
Thirds. or fine . | “
Sharps. 18 9) 53 5 4 14
Oats 15 6 47 2 20 10
Wheat 12 3 70 2 1 12
Buckwheat }2 6 58 14 ii ie
Barley jt 2 60 2 14 Oe
Indian Corn id 8 65 l 5 10
mMempseed | 1) | 21 45 2 At 8
Rice. | fi A trace. 80 AS race: | Sse es
Potatoes 63 — 41 2 ae 03
‘Milk 43 3 is 8 Lae eS6e
Sree nenre ees sce Oa ae ee Tn se ee be No aa
|
|
{
ik THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
On most farms both fowls and ducks are allowed to
run together, hence it is sometimes desirable to feed the
one and not the other. The ‘American A griculturist”
suggests the following ingenious plan :—
“The fowls can be readily fed by putting the feed on
boards’ slightly elevated from the ground: the ducks
seldom attempt to fly ur. To feed the ducks and not
the towls, a large flat pan should be procured and several
bric!s placed in the middle in order to keep the food
around the edges. Then a large inverted box or tub
should be covered over the pan, supported by a brick in
each corner. The duc!s by the flexibility of their necks
are enabled to feed, while the fowls can get nothing.”
Fowls require a constant supply of pure fresh water.
It is well occasionally to add a few drops of sulphate of
iron to the water. The indestructible stone drinking
fountains so generally used are well adapted to hold the
supply. A large one on the same principle can easily be
made out of any old keg or small barrel. Insert a spicket
near the bottom and let its mouth rest in a movable tin
cup—the water will flow out only so fast as it is con-
sumed in the cup. A cover should be prepared for the
tin in order to prevent the birds from fouling the water.
This is best done by an oblong frame to fit over the cup,
—Ssolid light wood at the sides and slanting top,—the
front being made of perpendicular wires. The water
should be changed at least once or twice a day on exces-
sively warm days in summer, In Winter, once in three
or four days is amply sufficient. It may often be desira-
ble to give the feed in a hopper, when we would recom-
mend one of the pattern described in -* The Pigeon Loft.”
We would here state that buttermilk and curds are highly
relished by the fowls and are very nutritious,
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 19
It now behooves us to mention the condiments requi-
site to good health in our feathered pets. These are
neither many nor expensive, but are all important to the
thrift and well being of fowls. Poultry must have lime
in some form for the formation of egg shell. Crushed
oyster shells are the most desirable. They can be pro-
cured at a low price, crushed finely by machinery, at any
dealer’s store. Old mortar will also answer. They must
have access to plenty of gravel containing small stones
which are a necessary ald to digestion. These are the
‘hen’s teeth.” Granulated or pure ground bone is invalu-
able for poultry and it can be fed either in a dish or
hopper or scattered on the ground like corn. Broken
charcoal should be supphed. It abundantly stimulates
digestion and also acts as a purifier in cases of Roup, ete.
Fowls in confinement must have plenty of dust in
which to cleanse themselves. Road dust is the best.
Coal ashes are also good for this purpose. Customers
have often asked our opinion as to the value of prepared
food advertised for poultry. These preparations are as a
rule tonics which stimulate the production of eggs in
fowls. From the great demand for the “Imperial Egg
Food,” (at present the leading preparation of its kind),
we know it is generally satisfactory. There is no doubt
that the production of eggs is increased thereby, and it
is a good thing for fowls, especially when kept in
confinement. But it must always be remembered that
breeding fowls should be in a natural condition—never
overfed or too much forced by stimulants.
20 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
General Management.
Suecess in any branch of business or industry 1s
achieved only by the most diligent and the most eager to
improve every opportunity. We often receive letters from
men whose health has failed, very frequently disabled
ministers, who desire some easy occupation whereby they
ean gain an honest livelihood and who are inclined to
favor poultry breeding. A man is always safe to keep
out of a business he knows nothing about. If, however, a
good opening presents itself, we can safely say the raising
of first-class poultry can be soon learned. We would
advise new beginners to start on a small scale and gradu-
ally increase. Poultry costs less to produce than beet.
and brings a higher average price. Fowls and eggs are
always indemand. The intelligent poulterer can often
secure a slight advance on the ordinary market rates by
invariably selling a superior article to appreciative cus-
tomers. To succeed in the poultry business, one should
have a natural love for fowls and should start determined
to devote to the breeding of fowls the same application
and study which would be necessary to success in any
business undertaking. Conducted on business principles,
poultry breeding is as profitable—considering the small
amount of capital required—as any of the lines of trade,
and is not nearly so much overdone. But especially to
the general farmer is poultry breeding remunerative.
Fowls pay a speedy return for the money expended. and
no farm stock yields a larger per centage on the capita-
invested. In breeding fowls there is one yuite impor-
tant item that is often neglected. Weallude to the value of
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 21
poultry manure. Wright-states that he found that drop-
pings from four Brahmas, for one night, weighed, in one
case, exactly one pound ; and in another more than three-
quarters, an average of nearly four ounces each bird.
By drying, this was reduced to 14 ounces. Other breeds
make less; but allowing only | ounce per bird daily, of
dry dung, fifty fowls will make in their roostin: g-house
alone, Anote 10 cwt. per annum of the best manure in
the Por. Hence, in half a year this number of fowls,
to say nothing of their offspring, will make more than
enough manure for an acre of land, 7 ewt. of guano being
the Tone quantity applied per acre, and poultry manure
being even richer than guano in ammonia and fertilizing
salts. These figures demand careful attention from the
large farmer. The manure, before using, should be mixed
with twice its bulk of earth, and then allowed to stand
in a heap covered with a few inches of earth, till decom-
posed throughout, when it makes the very best manure
that can be had.
We quote this to show that no “little things,” which
seein but trifling economies, should be neglected, but
everything possible should be made a source of revenue.
The droppings must be kept dry, under cover. If fowls
are slaughtered in large quantities the feathers also will
be worth saving. The webs of the large feathers should
be pe ore the quills and the smaller ones left as
they are. They should be cured by baking four times in
a cool oven, about half an hour each time, Hn allowed to
dry tora couple of days between each baking. In sup-
plying the market it is very desirable to have winter
eggs. A little foresight will secure a good supply. Ani-
mal food must be furnished.
22 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
Dressing and Shipping Poultry.
On this subject we quote the following as given by a
large commission house ;
“In preparing poultry for market, do not feed for at
least twenty-four hours before killing, as food in the crop
injures the appearance, is liable to sour, and purchasers
object to paying for this worse than useless weight.
Opening the veins of the neck is the best mode of killing,
and let it bleed freely, as poultry not properly bled will
not have a bright healthy appearance. The intestines or
the crop should not be “drawn.” For scalding poultry,
the water should be as near to the boiling point as possi—
ble, without actually boiling; the bird being held by the
head and legs, should be immersed and lifted up and
down in the water three times—this makes picking
easy. When the head is immersed it turns the color of
the comb, and gives the eyes a shrunken appearance,
which often leads buyers to think the fowl has been sick.
The feathers should then be at once removed, pin fea-
thers and all, very cleanly, and without breaking the_
skin. It should next be “ plumped,”’ by being dipped -
about ten seconds into water, nearly or quite boiling hot,
and then once into cold water about the same length of
time. Most of the dressed poultry sold here is wet-—
picked, and such is generally preferred; but very fat,
handsome turkeys, dry-picked, sell well at Thanksgiving |
and Christmas. Great care should be taken to avoid
cutting or bruising the flesh or breaking the bones. It
should be entirely cold, but not frozen before being
packed. This is a matter of importance; for if packed |
with the auimal heat in it, it will be almost sure to spoil. |
If it reaches market sonnd, without freezing, it will sell |
|
|
|
.
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT, 23
all the better. In packing, when practicable, use hand-
threshed dry straw; be sure that it is clean, free from
dust of any kind, and entirely dry. Place a layer of
straw at the bottom, then alternate layers of poultry and
straw, taking care to stow snugly, backs upward, legs not
doubled up under the body, but straightened out, and
fill the package so that the cover will draw down very
snugly upon the contents, to prevent shifting or shucing
on the way. Boxes are the best packages, and should
contain from 100 to 200 pounds. Larger boxes are in-
convenient, and more apt to get injured. The objection
to barrels is, that the poultry is apt to be much bent and
twisted out of shape; they answer better for chickens
and ducks than for turkeys and geese; but when packed
in barrels, should be packed on the side, keeping the
legs out straight. Straw should be between the poul-
try and sides of package to keep from freezing, though in
very cold weather this cannot always be avoided. In
packing large lots, avoid putting more than one kind in
a package and mark the kind on the cover.
In preparing frozen poultry for the late marxet, dry
pick the poultry, as it will keep longer, hold its color
better, and command better prices; the head should be
left on, and the manner of packing much the same as in
the general directions, except no straw or packing of any
kind should be used. Boxes of the following dimensions
are preferable—say four feet long by two feet wide and
fitteen inches deep (outside measurement.) Use new inch
lumber, well seasoned, and smoothly planed for the inside
of the package; they will pack two layers of turkeys or
‘three of fowl. Larger sized packages are inconvenient
to handle, and do not meet with as ready a sale; pack a
‘layer of poultry in as many boxes as will be required to
mkae one layer for each day’s work; when frozen sufti-
24 THE POULTRY YARD ; HOW TO
~
ciently, the second layer may be packed in like manner;
when full, the covers should be placed on and snugly
nailed, and the boxes placed together and well covered
with straw—say two or three feet in depth, or should the
weather moisten and thaw when the boxes are but partly
filled, they should be protected in the same way, in
which manner the poultry can be held and forwarded
with entire safety. The packing should be done in a
cold, dry room, separate from the slaughter-house, and
not in the open air, as the wind is apt to turn the poul-
try dark. Mark plainly on each package the gross
weight aud tare, and the kind it contains.” |
HGGS.& CHIcks,
Eggs should be regularly collected every day. The
wide-awake fancier can often learn to distinguish the
eggs of individual hens, and when this is possible it is
very desirable. Thereby, when it is desired to set a hen,
the eggs can be retained only from the finest hens or
those that are the best layers. Hens of the laying breed
will lay 150 to 250 eggs per annum—common hens aver-
age about 100 eggs per head. Every nest must always
have a nest egg (white china is the best,) as it prevents
the hens from laying away. Hard shell eggs are always
preferable, and hence it must be seen to that the hens
have constant access to shell-forming material. It is not
best to give them this in the form of broken eggshells, as
they may from that acquire the unprofitable habit of
eating their own eggs. The cure recommended, if the
habit is detected early, is to place in the nest an eggshell
filled with the strongest mustard mixed rather thick.
|
|
{
{
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 25
We often have inquiries as to whether eggs for hatching
ean be sent safely by express for long distances. We
answer unhesitatingly, Yes! We have sent eggs hundrels
of miles by express and had 11 and 13 to hatch out of a
clutch (13.) And again, we have sent eggs equally as
far and had none to hutch. Then the purchaser, if he is a
novice, is apt to think himself swindled and write a very
ungentlemanly letter. There is of course always some
risk in transportation, but there are many other reasons
why the eggs will sometimes fail to hatch whether sent
by express or set at home. Our plan for shipping eggs
for hatching is to take a good sized box and make a
“cushion” on the bottom inside with hay one or two
inches deep, then spread a layer of bran, on which pack
the eggs, each nearly one inch apart and the same dis-
tance from the sides of the box. Cover with bran and
then fill up with a good layer of hay. In cold weather
each ‘egg should be neatly wrapped in a piece of paper.
The lid of the box should be gently screwed on. The box
should have a handle of a piece of leather or the rim of a
barrel. When eggs are ordered from a distance a sitting
hen should be in readiness to receive them as soon as they
arrive. If none of the hens are ready a broody hen ean
always be bought at a low figure from some neighboring
farmer or “‘swapped” for a laying hen. To make the
kien take to her new nest she should be changed at night,
and it should be as nearly as possible like her old nest.
She should first be given some china eggs until she settles
down quietly to incubation. The period of incubation.is
twenty-one days. Right here we might say that to pre-
serve eggs for family use the best plan recommended in
“Wright’s Book of Poultry,” is to pack them closely
together and keep tightly covered up in a mixture pre-
pared as follows :—
26 THE POULTRY YARD ; HOW TO
“To four gallons of boiling water, half a peck of new
lime, stirring it some little time. When cold, remove
any hard lumps by a coarse sieve, add ten ounces of salt
and three ounces of cream of tartar and mix the whole
strongly. The mixture is then to be let stand to temper
for a fortnight before use. Thus treated, if put in when
newly Jnid, at nine months after they will eat quite as
good as though only laid six days, though, of course, not
quite like new laid.”
In keeping fowls for eggs it is not necessary or even
desirable to have a cock with the hens. Virgin eggs are
preferred by epicures and will sometimes bring a slight
advance in price on that account. To raise fowls in large
numbers they should be colonized in separate families.
Twenty five or thirty breeding fowls are plenty in one
flock. An experienced poulterer once remarked to us
that he could raise more young chicks and make more
money from a flock of twenty-five fowls on his farm than
he could from fifty—and we believe him. If it is desired
to raise poultry in large numbers they snould have sepa-
rate yards, with plenty of room, When this plan is
adopted and at the same time eggs are the desired pro-
duct, one pen of the finest fowls can be mated to replenish
the stock and in the others no cocks will be necessary. In
breeding fowls 1n separate enclosures in this manner it will
be well to allow each flock on different days in rotation the
range of the farm. When fancy fowls are bred it is
always well to keep a sufficient number of common hens
as sitters. Do not confine your fowls in too close quar-
ters. We constantly see the bad effects of this misman-
agement. The fowls become enfeebled, lose their vital
powers aud, as a consequence, the eggs are often worth-—
less. Whenever it is praeticable, we advocate unlimited
range. When fowls are bred in confinement their wants
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. wey
must be constantly kept in view and a plentiful supply
of some greens, scraps, worms, etc. given. Some large
breeders of thoroughbred poultry now adopt the plan of
“farming out” their breeding stock. This has always
been our plan, and it has worked very well. We now
employ about thirty different farms in raising pure—bred
poultry for us. We furnish the breeding-stock (to re-
sponsible parties only, in the neighborhood,) and pay
a specified price per dozen for eggs and per pair for the
chicks that are fit to sell. The inferior chicks are mar-
keted and the farmer pockets the proceeds. Every year
we mate our breeding stock ourselves for the season. In
putting our fowls out this way we are careful to give each
farmer a breed he fancies. We make it to his best inter-
ests to serve us well, by paying him better than he could
do with his own poultry.
Hens should be set in the evening and should be fur-
nished with comfortable nests in a darkened and unmo-
lested spot. The nest should be made flat, (when very
concave the eggs do no not lay so well), and is best
made out of an inverted sod, or three layers of dry
earth or ashes with straw, hay, or forest leaves
placed thereon. Thirteen eggs are the best number cov-
ered by average hens. But in cold weather eleven or
even nine or seven—according to the size of the hens
and eggs—are amply sufficient. A larger number would
only become chilled. The hen should be taken off the
nest, (if she does not go off of her own accord) every day
for feed, water, brief exercise and a good dusting. Do
not, as a rule, remove the young chickens until twenty-
four hours after all are hatched. Occasionally one may
need some assistance to get from the shell. This should
be given cautiously, and only in extreme cases, by gently
indenting the finger into the shell (without touching the
28 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
inside membrane,) in a circle from where it is clipped,
When the chicks are hatched the mother should be
placed in a coop about two or three feet square, placed on
the ground and with slats in the front, through which
the chicks can run out to exercise and receive feed
Young chicks should always be kept dry and where they
can get plenty of sunlight. It must be remembered that
fowls attain their growth in from four to eight months,
and can never make up for any “‘back setts” in that
period. Feed regularly and often until five or six weeks
old, at first with cooked meal and hard boiled eggs
mixed. Give fine chopped green feed and let them have
the benefit of a grass run. The floor of the chicken coop
should always be kept clean and free from vermin by a
fresh supply of dry dirt. Chicks should always be kept
growing while young. If intended for marketing they
should be forced and marketed early—Spring chickens
pay the best by all odds. For breeders, however, it is
not necessary to hatch the chicks too early, as those
hatched in milder weather require less care, grow better,
and are fully as profitable. Asiatics, however, intended
for for fall shows, should be hatched by the first of
March. April, May and June, however, are tie best
months for hatching fowls intended tor breeders. After
the first few days a small bit of meat can be chopped
with the feed once a day. Soft feed should be fed fresh very
often —only so much given each time as is entirely con-
sumcd. A little bone meal should be added ‘to the feed.
After the chicks are two or three weeks old, the evening
meal can consist of cracked corn and wheat or good
serecnings. Chicks should always have a grass run; if
deprived of this, green feed must be furnished to them
daily. Chopped cabbage leaves are highly relished by
them. A plentiful supply of pure fresh water must be
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 29
constantly at hand. In winter the chicks require more
stimulating food than in summer. Beef scraps can be
boiled and mixed with the soft feed. If the chicks have
been liberally fed they will be in prime condition for the
table without any extra fattening. Growing chicks
must always have plenty of exercise and should not be
crowded together in too close quarters. In raising fowls
for market, as a rule, the chicks should be killed as soon
as ready. Certainly as soon as they have attained full
size, as then better prices are generally procured than
later in the season. The feed afterwards fed is therefore
worse than wasted. Besides this there is considerable
risk from disease in holding a large lot of poultry. In
breeding fancy fowls the young chicks that turn out in-
ferior “culls” or “scrubs” as commonly called (and alas!
even the best strains will sometimes throw these despised
and ought-to-be rejected specimens), should be marketed
as soon as distinguishable at from three to six months
old. Don’t be afraid to kill your poor chicks—it is the
only way to ultimate success. If all are killed this year
they will be fewer next year.
DISEASES.
We do not much believe in doctoring fowls. In fact
we have had very little disease amongst our fowls and
when it did appear we generally resorted to the hatchet,
If we can’t cure we can at least kill and thereby prevent
the spread of the disease. Prevention js always better
than cure. VeRMIN are a very frequent cause of disease
in fowls. Every precaution should be taken to prevent
their appearance. Don’t crowd the fowls, or—as the
30 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
Poultry World tersely remarks—you will breed thousands
of vermin and precious few chicks. The poultry house
should be thoroughly whitewashed inside and out, in the
nests and every crevice, three or four times a year. Mix
2 oz. of carbolic acid toa bucketfull of hot whitewash.
The house should occasionally be fumigated with sulphur.
The nests should be strewn with tobacco dust and sulphur.
The ground powder of the leaves of an imported
plant known in commerce as Persian Powder, and
various other names, is the most powerful exterminator
of insects. The odor kills them. The feathers of the
hens should be thoroughly rubbed with the powder.
Gapes will seldom appear in young chicks if the hen and
nests are thoroughly rid of all insects.
Rovp, including colds, canker, diphtheria, ete., is best
prevented and often cured by the use of the celebrated
Douglass mixture. This consists of
4 pound Sulphate of Iron;
1 oz. Sulphuric Acid ;
2 Gatlons Water. ?
This is to be added to the drinking water in the propor-
tion of a tablespoonful to a pint. Fowls affected by the
Rtoup should be separated and put in dry warm quarters.
The head and nostrils should be well washed with warm
water and also with warm alum water. Give daily half a
grain Cayenne pepper with half a grain allspice in a bolus:
of meal. Gapes, if treated early, a small pill of camphor,
daily, and also a little camphor in the drinking water, is)
recommended, When fully developed the worms should
be removed from the windpipe by inserting a loop of
horse hair into the organ and withdrawing it while turn-
ing it around. Repeat the operation until all the worms|
are removed.
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 31
For General DeEsiity, bad moulting, etc., use stimu-
lating food, with sulphate of iron or Douglass mixture in
the water. If the fowls are in general affected with
disease, especially in the case of Catarrh and Roup, it is
an excellent plan to thoroughly fumigate the poultry
house with sulphur. To do this, close the doors and
windows and burn a small quantity on a shovel. In
many such cases the following prescription will be found
valuable. It was given to us by a doctor fancier some
two years ago, who recommends it as very successful in
most cases of disease among the chickens :—
Pulv. Capsicum, nua
Do. Allspice, } Ka. 50 grains.
Diluted Carbolic Acid, 2 scruples ;
To form into a mass, add Syrup and Flour or powdered
Gum Arabic.
To form into pills 100 of 4 gr. each.
One pill three times a day, or alternate with boluses, as
below:
Pulv. Charcoal and Yeast, 200 grs.
Flor Sulphur, 150 grs.
Syrup of flour, 2 scruples.
To form into mass, which make into 100 boluses of 54
grs. each.
One 3 times a day.
With Roup give also 3 or 4 drops diluted Carbolic
Acid, washing out nostrils with Castile water, and inject
some of the acid into the nose.
Crop Bounp. The following is recommended :—
Warm water should be forced down the throat and
the crop gently kneaded or worked for an hour, if neces-
sary, until it becomes soft, holding the bill open and the
head down; then give a tablespoonful of castor oil and
feed sparingly for a day or two to prevent permanent dis-
32 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
tention. If this is not effective an incision about an inch
long should be made at the top of the crop, first remo-
ving some of the feathers, and care being taken not to
cut any of the large blood vessels. The contents of the
crop should then be removed and the outlet examined to
see that it is not stopped up. ‘The incision may be
closed by making three or four stitches with horse hair
or silk in the inner skin and the same in the outer. Be
careful not to sew the two skins together, as it 1s almost
certainly fatal. Feed on sopped bread, and allow no
water for twenty-four hours after the operation.
StratneD Hip Jornt.—A customer of ours, and for
many years a practical breeder, has called our attention
to a common ailment in fowls which we believe has
never before been noticed by any writer on poultry.
Especially in the large breeds where the rooster is heavy,
good laying hens after two years old often become so
strained and weak in the hip joints that they slide out
of position, letting the body fall very near the ground
and making the hen walk hke a duck. The rooster
seeing the hen in this position naturally thinks she is—
courting his attentions, and the weakened hen is thus —
very much injured. ‘lhe remedy is simple and the cure |
nearly always complete. Tie the two legs together by a
string around each at the hip joints—a little nearer than —
they would be when the bird was standing naturally.
They must be tied back of the breastbone, so that they
cannot slip out of position. The hen will soon learn to —
walk, although not so rapidly, using her hock joints, and —
in a few weeks she will have recovered the full and per- |
fect use of her limbs. |
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 33
How to Raise Good Turkeys.
| No farm stock pays higher or surer return for the cap-
‘ital and time invested than turkeys, yet they are often
‘very poorly managed and the profits are consequently
‘Meagre. We are convinced this neglect is frequently
‘due to want of a proper knowledge of how to breed and
| manage them, and hence we shall give full and ex-
| plicit directions on this subject. Turkey hens attain ma.
(turity much earlier than the gobblers. At two years old
the hens will be full grown; they very seldom become
jlarger after that time; whilst gobblers are not nearly
‘matured at that age, but continue to grow until four or
|five years old. They are, however, in their prime breed-
‘ing condition at three years old. Gobblers of this age
‘mated to hens two years old will produce the finest, larg-
‘est and earliest matured young turkeys. The only objec-
tee to gobblers of this age is, that on account of their
heavy size they will sometimes injure the hens. For
this reason the gobblers although of large frame should
not be allowed to lay on fat and become heavy during
\the breeding season.
| AS a necessary preventive of injury to the hens the
(spurs and toe nails of the gobbler should be cut off.
After the operation the best and most speedy way to
stop the bleeding is to saturate a rag with Monsell’s
Liquid Solution of Iron, (which ean be procured from any
\drugeist,) and tie over the bleeding parts for a day or
es It will immediately stop the blood. A yearling
!
:
|
{
34 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
gobbler of large size mated to two year old hens will also
produce fine and large offspring. Great care must always —
be taken in the selection of the breeding birds. It is
very ‘‘penny wise and pound foolish” to slaughter and mar-
ket the largest young turkeys because they will bring a
few more cents in market. Those that grow the fastest
and largest and are of the most perfect form should not
be sold at any price but should be retained for breeders.
In a few years the increase in the average size and value
of the flock will be so apparent as to convince the farmer
that this is beyond all doubt the only right way and by
far the most profitable. We cannot too strongly urge
this upon our readers. Turkeys are as sure of being im-
proved or degenerated by the manner in which they are
bred and selected as are pigs. It will pay every one who
raises turkeys to pay eight or ten dollars for a good thor-
oughbred gobbler to breed from. The gobbler should
not be akin to the hens. In selecting birds for breeding,
care must be taken that they possess no deformities.
Crooked breast, which means what meat there is, all]
developed on one side of the breast or bone, is often
caused by narrow roosting perches. A rail split in half —
makes an excellent roost. The roosts should not be too high —
if in a house, as the turkeys not having room to take a
long fly in descending are often seriously hurt. The
roosts need not be all on the same level, but can slant in —
the form of gradually ascending steps. The largest and
heaviest old gobblers will often prefer the lowest roost.
It is useless to attempt to keep turkeys in the same house —
with hens. While they will generally thrive well roost- _
ing out in the trees, &., yet, for evident reasons, it 1s
|
always best to havea special house for them. This need
only be a shed facing the south and open in front: roof
|
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 35
v
sloping from about nine to seven feet. Turkeys must
have liberty and freedom to range at will. They
will then pick up much of their feed, but should always
be fed regularly every morning and evening. They
will then always roost around home and will be kept
constantly in fine growing condition. Mart hos says.
England informs us that by actual experiment he has
found that if the soft feed (such as meal, etc.) be mixed
with milk instead of water, the turkeys when killed will
be much more delicate and the flesh of a far superior
quality to those fed on a mixture made with water.
Cottage cheese is an excellent mess for them. Among
other valuable hints he also calls attention to the fact that
turkey hens after three years old are unprofitable as
breeders, often laying soft shelled eggs. The same thing
will happen if the turkey hens have not been set during
the season. A turkey will lay eighteen or twenty eggs.
The eggs of the first laying can be given to hens and the
second laying will then be had earlier, when she should
be allowed to sit herself, but should be given only so
many eggs as she will cover satisfactorily. They begin
to lay about April, and unless closely watched will make
their nest in the field or among the shrubbery where
their eggs may be lost. If a hen is discovered in some
such place after she has begun to set it will be well to
afford all the protection possible by placing a cover or
| inverted box, with one side out, over the nest. The
f
period of incubation is twenty-eight days.
It is an undoubted fact that one impregnation of the
gobbler fecundates the entire laying of the turkey hen,
and yet it is advisable to keep the gobbler constantly
| with the hens.
Turkey hens are persistent sitters; they frequently
have to be compelled to leave the nest for food and water
36 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
The French, who are always such studious economists,
avail themselves of this propensity to a very good profit
in the hatching of chicks. A turkey hen will sit steadily
for three months. By giving a little brandy the hen
will sit still longer. One great merit is, that they will ©
during all this while keep in such good condition, that
they can easily be fattened and killed when their ser-
vices are no longer needed. Turkeys are very tender
when young—until they finish “shooting the red.” When
the eggs are all hatched the hen we should be con-
fined in a small coop placed in an enclosure of about six
feet square, surrounded by a board twelve or fifteen
inches high. After awhile the hen can be allowed her
freedom. She will guard her chicks carefully and will
stay in the enclosure with them or near by. The young
Turkeys must not be subjected to dampness nor allowed
to run in wet grass. When about three weeks old they
can be allowed their lberty with the hen on fine days.
They must be fed “little and often” and allowed to get
no “back sets.” At first feed bread thoroughly soaked in
milk and give new milk to drink. Give hard boiled eggs
mashed up and mixed with the bread and milk. Feed
at least four or five times a day, giving each time just so
much as they eat up clean. After a week or two give them
curds and continue until five or six weeks old. At this—
age feed scalded Indian meal mixed with curd: also at
another time in the day give scalded Indian, wheat mid-
lings and bran mixed, the mixture to be? bran. Turkeys.
must be liberally fed and atter they are safe through the.
critical period of their lives will gain in size very rapidly.
They should be fed on stimulating food during moulting |
season on account of the great rapt of shedding and |
the wonderful change they then undergo. From being stark
naked they will be entirely feathered in a few “weeks.
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 37
They are at this time, of course, lighter in-weight. A
curious fact and one worthy of notice, is that the hens
will not moult until they are through sitting. Hence if
from any cause they are set very late the moulting is cor-
respondingly later. We have known ahen to be entirely
bare at Christmas. This must by all means be avoided,
or the hens will likely not be able to withstand the try-
ing ordeal. It has been observed that turkeys show a
great fondness for dandelion leaves, in preference to all
other greens. From the well-known medicinal properties
of this plant, it will be well to sow a few seeds in some
waste spot near the turkey house, so that they can have
a constant supply.
Varieties of Turkeys, are the Mammoth Bronze,
White Holland, Black, Blue and Buff Turkeys. The
Bronze Turkeys are generally considered the largest.
Adult gobblers will weigh 40 and 45 pounds each, hens 15
to 20. Young Turkey Gobblers at eight months old,
will weigh from twenty-two to twenty-five pounds each
and hens from thirteen to fifteen pounds. These are fair
average weights. ‘They will gain about one pound in
two weeks. But occasionally, and also when birds are
especially well fed, they will exceed these weights. or
breeding stock, however, it is not well to force them too
much. Further north where the snow is on the ground for
a longer period and where consequently the Turkeys are
fed more corn, they will weigh heavier. The new Ameri—
/ ean standard only recognizes the light tipped turkeys,
while the dark bronze are really the more beautiful and
by many breeders preferred. Both colors can be bred
_ from the same flock if they are so mated, but some of
| this offspring will be of a mixed bronze plumage. The
silver tips, however, are generally purer bred. The
38 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
dark bronze will often throw buff or cinnamon birds,
showing that they have been crossed with that va-
riety to secure the desired color. Pure bronze turkeys
are believed to have originated from a cross of the wild
turkey and the grey Narragansetts.
Toe Waite Hoiitanp Turkeys are a very handsome
and showy variety. The rich red beads and the intense
glossy black beard of the male contrasting beautifully
with a plumage of snowy whiteness. For a lawn a finer
or more aristocratic ornament could not be desired.
They are not only ‘“‘a thing of beauty,” but are also a.
very valuable breed. They are very much larger than
the common white turkey, and also, unlike them, are
very hardy. ‘Their flesh is much esteemed as of a supe-
rior delicacy. They are especially valued on account of
their superior laying qualities and early mating. While
their eggs are not quite as large as the bronze, they fur-
nish more of them.
Buack Turkeys are distinguished by an intense deep
black color throughout, and are of large size.
Bius Turkeys, sometimes called slate turkeys, should
be of an even slaty color throughout. The best stock of
this breed was imported from France. They are much
esteenicd on account of their prolificacy, early maturity
and large size, being in many cases fully equal in size to
the Bronze. This breed is well worthy of more general
cultivation.
Burr Turkeys are as their name indicates, of a pure
buff color throughout. They are comparatively but little
bred. In no stock is the importance of a good male so
fully evinced, and every farmer should each year or two,
as already hinted, procure a good thoroughbred gobbler
of either the Bronze, White, Holland, or Blue varieties,
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT, 39
RAISING GEESE.
—____.
No land or water fowls can be so easily and cheaply
raised as Geese. They will thrive well on pasture alone.
It is of the first importance to breed from large matured
specimens, and when once mated, the same birds can be
retained as breeders for very many years. The gander,
however, is apt to get cross with age, and hence has to
be changed. Two or three geese (or sometimes four) can
be mated to one gander. The goose will lay 138 to 15
eggs. When ready for setting, she should have only 13
eggs. She is a splendid sitter, and should not be dis-
turbed. When leaving the nest to feed she covers her
eggs like the duck, although not so well. The period of
incubation is thirty days. They usually commence laying
in February. Large common hens, Cochins or Brahmas
can be used as sitters, giving each hen three or four eggs.
Turkeys will also hatch the eggs well. On account of
the thick shells of the eggs and the long period of incu-
bation, it is recommended to make the nest on the ground
or moist earth, and during the last ten days or two weeks
to sprinkle the eggs with tepid water. The gander will
frequently assist his favorite mate in the labors of incu-
bation, and after the goslings are hatched is very vigilant
in his care of them. At first the goslings should be kept
warm and fed “ little and often,’ with hard boiled eggs,
bread crumbs or scalded meal, not neglecting a plentiful
supply of greens and grass. They are soon ready to turn
out to graze, and will pick all their food, mostly grass, in
the fields. They require no other feed so long as this
lasts, and they can be marketed in fine condition, called
40 THE POULTRY YARD; HOW TO
in England “ green geese.” After the supply of grass is
cut off by winter, the geese can be put up to fatten, if so
desired. This should be done in a dark place, and they
should be well fed, on oats, meal or barley meal, or a
mixture. A bunch of sweet hay should be tied up within
their reach.
Geese can be raised profitably with very little water,
only plenty to drink and a large tub full for bathing.
One valuable peculiarity of geese is that they always give
notice of hen-roost robbers, whether biped or quadruped,
by their shrill cries, and hence are excellent “watch —
dogs.”
THe VARIETIES OF THOROUGHBRED GezSE are the Tou-
louse, Embden and China. The value of thoroughbreds
is here fully illustrated. For while the produce of pure
Embden geese, crossed with a Toulouse Gander, make the
very finest and largest goslings for the market, yet these,
if bred together, will rapidly deteriorate.
Tue TouLouss GmEsE are of an even shade of grey,
with white on the belly. In size, the Toulouse generally
are the largest, although sometimes equalled by the Emb-
den. The prize Toulouse geese at the Birmingham show
weighed as high as 60 pounds per pair, and goslings forty
eight anda half pounds. This is counted the heaviest
weight ever attained. They mature early, are very hardy,
and produce an abundance of feathers.
Embpen, or BREMEN GE&ESE are of a pure white plum-
age, with dark flesh-colored bills, orange legs and bright
blue eyes. They should be very tall and of erect carriage,
with large square bodies. Mr. J. K. Fowler gives the
following weights of his prize geese:—the gander, (three
years old,) weighed just thirty-two and a half pounds
and his mate (a goose of the same age) pulled down
very nearly twenty-six pounds; the goslings weighed
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 41
twenty-seven and a half pounds, and twenty-four
pounds. ‘They are kept and bred largely in Saxony,
and are celebrated for the delicacy of their meat.
They are good layers and easily raised. The feathers,
(a very important “crop” of geese are bred in quanti-
ties,) are more valuable than those of the Toulouse
or any other grey geese.
THE CHINA oR Hone Kone Gezsz are not so large but
are unusually prolific layers. The goose will lay as many
as thirty eggs before offering to sit, and will lay three or
even four litters in a season. Their tlesh is very superior,
they mature early, are easily raised, and are readily fat-
tened. Their eggs are not as large by about one third as
the two preceding breeds, but the greatly increased quan-
tity more than compensates. They are, besides, very
ornamental, having a large protuberance at the base
of the bill, and they should receive more attention from
poultry breeders. In color they are both brown (like the
Toulouse,) and pure snowy white. In concluding our re-
marks on Geese, we would strongly urge breeders and
farmers everywhere to pay more attention to the breeding
of this valued domestic fowl. We are glad to notice a
good demand for thoroughbred geese, and trust that
| breeders will soon perceive the value of paying these
fowls the attention they so well deserve.
a a
given for Brown Leghorns. There is here just one fault,
a solid white ear lobe, and the plumage (standard) of this
variety cannot consistently go together without white
feathers being made allowable or dark legs not a disqual-
ification, but white ear lobes—spotless white—and yellow
legs, cannot be made to breed ; it is altogether inconsistent
with natural laws.
“In a certain number of the Poultry World, there ap-
peared an article in which the writer stated that the ori-
ginal jungle fowls were nearly of the plumage of the
Brown Leghorns, and some have willow legs, and some
white ear lobes, to prove, doubtless that it was natural to
have this white lobe. JI enquired in the succeeding
number of the Poultry World whether it was the yellow
and dark leg birds that had the white ear lobes, but have
never learned; there is too much trying to cover up the
defects of the standard as given to Brown Leghorns, the
most open confession I have ever seen is an article in
January (22) number.
I am now running a strain of Brown Leghorns, direct
descendants of the W. F. B.S. crossed on natives, and
find stamina much improved, and when I get them where
I can rely on them, which I know will be in 78, I will
have a strain of Brown Leghorns that will not lose tail
feathers in summer, nor give dark legs, but a type just to
my own liking. IL want lobes one-third surface white, no
more. But by all means, Brother Burpee, insert in your
book an open remonstrance against the wholesale slaugh-
ter of valuable points and desirable qualities, just to cater
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 53
to the wants of a few fanciers like , who had so much
to do in compiling the standard that he got in what has
just ruined him, and Iam glad of it. Last year, ’75, in
August or September, he had not 25 hens or cocks but
were disqualitied, on account of white feathers. I know
_ this to be true, and am heartily glad of it.”
The writer of the above is only too true to his
statements. Much has been done to injure the fair fame
of the Brown Leghorns by advertising solid white ear
lobes and sending out birds with nearly red lobes. Rais-
ing, as we do, hundreds of Brown Leghorns, from the
most carefully mated stock, we every year raise birds
that are throughout free from any white tinge, with
bright yellow legs and solid white lobes, but they are
scarce. We consider the Brown Leghorns as difficult a
breed, to handle with a view to exhibition purposes, as
the Dark Brahmas, and requiring equally as much skill.
Hens with pure white ear lobes are easily produced from
good strains. ‘Lhe trouble is with the cocks. If the ma-
jority of the cocks have ear lobes two-thirds white and
about five per cent pure white, with no corresponding
defects, it is as good as can be expected at present. “Truth
will out.” Even if by letting it out we may tread on
some tender toes, yet it is our only true plan in writing
for the poultry public. We regard the Brown Leghorns
as too valuable a breed to be altered by crossing, or to be
ruined instamina and important excellencies by a mad
rush after white ear lobes, “regardless of cost.” In mat-
| ing, always keep in view the one great quality that en-
dears this breed to the people—the eggs.
Buack Lreanorns. These are solid black in plumage,
| with pure white ear lobes and erect combs. They, likeall
| black fowls, usually have dark legs. They are the smallest
of the Leghorns, and although good layers, are no better
than the others. They look too much like degenerated black
Spanish, and it is our opinion that unless improved they
——E~ EEE
54 THE POULTRY YARD, HOW TO
will soon sink into oblivion as a variety not worthy of dis-
tinct cultivation.
Dominique Levnorns. These fowls are certainly very
pretty, being of the uniform Dominique color, contrasting
nicely with white ear lobes. The finest fowls we raised
the past season, and exhibited at the Centennial, were
perfect as regards Leghorn characteristics and color, but
had a few black spots over the yellow legs. We have had
birds of this breed with pure yellow legs, but they were
faulty in the ear lobes.. This variety can never compete
in popularity with the Brown and White Leghorns. |
Some breeders claim that they are the largest of all Leg-
horns, and we have purchased birds of such stock which
were very large—too large for pure Leghorns, and plainly
showing a cross, also having nearly or quite red ear
lobes.
BLACK SPANISH.
The White Face Black Spanish are
one of the oldest pure breeds. They
are everlasting layers of very large
‘ eggs, of excellent flavor. The yelk
\ of the egg is not larger than ordina—
ry eggs, the white or albumen pre-
\ properly bred, the only danger being
their large erect single combs, which
will become frozen in very severe
mai weather. They are very high in bo-
Pie ma Sine stylish carriage. Their legs are of a lead —
eolor, becoming lighter with age. Breeding in-and-in
also produces pale legs, and then a cross should be made
dominating. They are very hardy if |
FURNISH AND MANAGE IT. 55
with a very bluish-black legged cock of fresh blood.
Their white face and long serrated comb extending out
almost to the end of the bill are well depicted in the ac-
companying cut. They are very poor table fowls, but
_ their fine eggs entitle them toa high rank among the
_ breeds of domestic poultry.
Hamburgs.
Hamburgs are a very popular breed of non-sitting
fowls. They are unrivalled in variety and beauty of
plumage. Our colored frontispiece (prepared expressly
for The Poultry Yard,) well represents an imported trio
of the Black Hambur zs, bred by the Rev. W. Sergeatson,
the most. celebrated Eielish exhibitor of this variety.
All Hamburgs possess the same general characteristics.
Stylish and active in carriage, slender, rather short, blue
or slaty blue legs, with deep red rose combs and close
fitting pure white ear lobes. They require free range,
and are then easily kept, as they are excellent foragers.
They will lay upwards of 200 eggs in a year. While
their eggs are not so large as AGES. a the Leghorns, yet,
as ne as eggs are sold by the dozen, this Hele little
material serene: in supplying the market. Mr. A.
| Beldon says of their early maturity, he has found that
pullets of the pencilled varieties lay at five months; the
| spangled not quite so early. The varieties of Hamburgs
| are the silver and golden pencilled, the spangled and the
solid black. The Blacks are the largest of all, and lay
the largest eggs. They are also considered the most
hardy. G. 8S. BENSON, JR. W. ATLEE BURPEE.
BENSON & BURPEH EH,
4
Successors to W ATLEE BURPEE,
Breeders and Shippers of
"heed
THOROUGHBRED LIVE STOCK.
Alderney, Ayrshire and Shorthorn Cattle and Calves.
~ . Cotswold Sheep.—We are breeding from the grand imported Ram, “Swanwick’s Prize
Mik: Royal,” (weight 382 lbs.,) and winner of 2d prize Royal, and 1st prize at Cirencester, Eng.
+ Southdowns, bred to our fine imported Ram, ‘‘Lord- Walsingham.” See cuts of these
rams in our new Live Stock Catalogue.,
| Chester White Pigs, cf all ages, always for sale,
Berkshire Pigs ot the finest blood in England, including imported animals of the
most fashionable strains. The Collier, intported 1876, winner of six high honors, first
prizes and Centennial medal.
Yorkshire Piys of the finest importations. Perfect beauties, Pedigrees, &c., sent
to purchasers.
Poland China and Essex Pigs, as fine as any in America.
HIGH CLASS LAND & WATER FOWLS.
We make the breeding of Fancy Poultry a specialty. Brown and White Leghorns,
Brahmas, Cochins, Plymouth Rocks, American Dominiques, Games, Hamburgs, Polish and
Bantams, Pekin and all other Ducks. Turkeys and Geese in variety. We breed our fowls
on separate farms, FANCY PIGEONS ir variety. Every fancier should send 50 cents for
the ‘Pigeon Loft,” Wehaye added this year for new blood,388 imported and English
- prize-winning birds. We exhibited 60 coops at the Centennial, and were awarded TWELVE
PRIZE MEDALS for superior excellence in Fowls, urkeys, Geese, Ducks, and Fancy
Pigeons. FOWLS and EGGS FOR SALE. Elegant New Cataluogue, 20 cents.
- Jur Annual Catalogue of Reliable Garden, Field and Flower Seeds and Nursery stock,
and circulars of Live Stock and Poultry free to all.
BENSON & BURPEE,
Seed Warehouse,
223 Church St., Philadelphia.
= a
a LIBRARY OF CON
PARUERS and i i I
te
3 “a ee
Ay «
Ul ie ¥ te oe
x ie
lt oe *
(Established 1855.)
The Oldest, Largest, most Enterprising, Interestin
Journal of ‘ik eee
It is a 64-column weekly paper, furnishing every week more valuable ii
’ the different departments of agriculture thau any other paper of. the ae d
and 4 Family Department unequalled for interest and value for the house
TERMS. Single Subscriptions, (52 issues), $2.00. In Clubs of ten as
payable invariably in advance. The most liberal, Premiums or Cash Co
given by any first-class paper, are offered tu Club a were Send for spec
premium list, free. Address
PRACTICAL FARMER,
Address, W. ATLEE BURPEL ee es
Philadelp! hia, Pa.
Hollinger Corp.