presented to

ttbe Xibrar?

oftbe

of Toronto

Of*

' PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE ;

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF

FLORISTS' PLANTS,

FOK THE

AMATEUR AND PROFESSIONAL FLORIST.

BY

PETER HENDERSON,

AUTHOR OP "GARDENING FOB PROFIT."
BERGEN CITY, N. J.

ILLUSTRATED.

NEW YORK:
ORANGE JUDD AND COMPANY,

245 BROADWAY.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by
ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
District of New York.

CONTENTS.

Introduction .. 5

CHAPTEE I.
Aspect and Soil « 7

CHAPTER II.
Laying out the Lawn and Flower Garden 9

CHAPTER IH.
Designs for Ornamental Grounds 11

CHAPTER IV.
Planting of Flower Beds 26

CHAPTER V.
Soils for Potting 28

CHAPTER VI.
Temperature and Moisture 31

CHAPTER VH.

The Potting of Plants 37

CHAPTER VTH.
Cold Frames— Winter Protection 45

CHAPTER IX.
Construction of Hot-beds 47

CHAPTER X.
Green-house Structures 48

CHAPTER XI.

Modes of Heating ... 61

CHAPTER XH.

Propagation of Plants by Seeds 67

CHAPTER XIII.

Propagation of Plants by Cuttings 79

CHAPTER XTV.
Propagation of Lilies 82

CHAPTER XV.

Culture of the Rose 86

CHAPTER XVI.

Culture of the Verbena 107

CHAPTER XVII.
Culture of the Tuberose , I .....113

3

IV PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

CHAPTER XVHI. .

Orchid Culture 119

CHAPTER XIX.

Holland Bulbs ' 122

CHAPTER XX.

Cape Bulbs, Varieties and Culture 125

CHAPTER XXI.

Culture of Winter-flowering Plants 130

CHAPTER XXII.

Construction of Bouquets, Baskets, etc 148

CHAPTER XXIH.

Hanging Baskets 163

CHAPTER XXIV.

Parlor or Window Gardening 167

CHAPTER XXV.

Formation of Rock-work 171

CHAPTER XXVI.

Insects 172

CHAPTER XXVH.

Are Plants Injurious to Health ? 182

CHAPTER XXVni.

Nature's Law of Colors 183

CHAPTER XXIX.

Packing Plants 186

CHAPTER XXX.

Plants by Mail 188

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Profits of Floriculture 189

CHAPTER XXXH.

Short Descriptions of Soft-wooded or Bedding Plants of the Leading Kinds.192
CHAPTER XXXIH.

Green-house and Stove, or Hot-house, Plants 211

CHAPTER XXXIV.
Annuals — Hardy Herbaceous, Perennial and Biennial Plants, Ornamental

Shrubs and Climbers — 217

CHAPTER XXXV.
Diary of Operations for Each Day in the Year 222

INTRODUCTION.

The very flattering reception given my recent work on
Vegetables — " Gardening for Profit " — has induced me to
again enter the field of horticultural literature and ofler
to the public what knowledge twenty years of varied and
extensive experience has given me in floriculture.

The subjects embraced by floriculture are now so vari-
ous and comprehensive, that the difficulty presenting itself
throughout has been to compress the work into moderate
limits, without omitting matters which it is requisite those
looking for information should know. But in endeavoring
to do so, it has been necessary to treat many subjects
much more briefly than their importance deserved.

It has been my aim to make this book meet the require-
ments of the amateur and inexperienced florist, and in
this I trust I have partially succeeded. To do so, I have
had to give instructions on some subjects more in detail
than will seein necessary to the experienced gardener ; but
he should know that it is not for such as he that a book
like this is written. It is for the amateur who takes
pleasure in the work of, or superintendence of, his own
garden or green-house; or the unskilled florist in our
country towns, who has no one to consult with or to copy
from. With such I flatter myself that this book will be
welcome, as filling a want that no work before written in
this country has attempted to supply ; for all previous
works have been written for the amateur, or amateur's
gardener; commercial floriculture in all has been entirely
ignored.
5

VI PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

The radical views advanced on some subjects will be
scouted by many gardeners who have been trained, as I
was, in the conservative schools. For some years I
practised according to my early teachings, until in-
creasing business and the dire necessity of more labor
brought common sense to the rescue and enabled me to
cut loose from prescribed rules to such an extent as now
to produce better results, with half the labor, than was
done a score of years ago. Had our practices in such
matters been limited in their extent, or in the length of
time they have been in use, we could not have advocated
their adoption with such confidence. Such modes, differ-
ing from those of the " orthodox school," as we have
described, have been in use by all successful florists of
extensive practice in the vicinity of New York for the
past twelve or fifteen years, and as " a tree is known by
its fruits," so we say come and see the results produced
by these methods, and judge whether or not they are
worthy of imitation.

My own knowledge and experience being defective on
a few of the subjects treated of in this work, I have had
the pleasure to receive the assistance of friends who have
attained special eminence in the departments on which
they treat. The plans for laying out gardens, together
with the descriptions, are the work of Eugene A. Baumann,
Landscape Gardener, of Rahway, N. J. ; that on the " Con-
struction of Bouquets, etc.," is written by James H. Park,
of Brooklyn, L. I. ; the chapter on tc Orchids," is by
James Fleming, Bergen City, N. J.; and that on " Violet
Forcing," by Norton Bros., of Dorchester, Mass.

PETER HENDERSON.
Bergen City, JV. J., Nov. 1st., 1868.

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

CHAPTER I.

ASPECT AND SOIL.

The Aspect of the Flower Garden, when choice can be
made, should be towards the south, or south-east, and if
sheltered by hills, or belts of timber, from the north-west,
many plants and trees can be safely grown that could not
otherwise succeed without that shelter. Such a situation
also permits operations to be begun earlier in spring, and
continued later in the fall, in some locations making the
season from two to three weeks longer than if the aspect
had been to the north or north-west.

The soil in flower gardening, as in all Horticultural
operations, is the basis of success, and is of more import-
ance even than Aspect or Location ; and whether it is the
man of wealth, looking for a site upon which to build, and
surround his home with a flowery landscape, or the work-
ing gardener about to become florist, and venturing his
hard earnings in a first essay in business, let him first be
certain that old " mother earth," in the spot about to be
chosen, is in such condition as will reward his labors with
success. Soils are so varied, that it is difficult indeed to
convey to the inexperienced by description, what the
proper character should be. To say to the uninitiated,
7

8 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE.

that the best soil for all garden purposes is a sandy loam,
not less than 10 inches deep, conveys very little informa-
tion, unless he is first made to understand what a sandy
loam is. The subsoil, or stratum of earth immediately
underlying the top soil, or loam, usually determines the
quality of the soil. If it be gravelly, or sandy, then the
top soil will almost invariably be a sandy loam ; but if the
subsoil is of putty-like clay, then the top soil will usually
be of the same nature, and be what is known as clayey
loam. One great advantage usually in soils having a
gravelly or sandy subsoil is, that the water passes off free-
ly, rendering the expensive operation of draining unneces-
sary, while in all soils with clayey subsoil, draining must
be done, and thoroughly, or failure will certainly be the
result. Those most to be avoided are what are known as
" thin soils ;" these may be either of sand, gravel, or clay,
being in many places little more than " subsoil," without
its stratum of loam. No process of manuring or cultiva-
tion can ever bring such soils into a condition to compete
with those naturally good; for be it remembered that
manures answer only a temporary purpose, and exert no
permanent change in soil. Our richest market gardens,
when left untilled, relapse into their normal state in three
years. Thus it is in many parts of the Southern States,
that plantations are said to be " worn out " in a few years,
while in fact it is simply the supply of food to the plants
that has been exhausted, the organic matter formed by
decaying leaves or sods having been expended by the
crops.

Supply this want by fertilizers, and you again have the
land in its primitive fertile condition ; but this must be
continued, or the crops will again show indications of the
soil being " worn out," but quicker, of course, on a thin
soil than on a deep one. Hence the importance of select-
ing, when a choice can be had, a deep soil, with a subsoil
of sand or gravel

LAYING OUT THE LAWN AXD FLOWER GARDEN. 9

CHAPTER IL

LAYING OUT THE LAWN AND FLOWER GARDEN.

The Lawn* — The preparation of the Lawn is usually
preliminary to the laying out of flower-beds in grounds
having pretensions to what is called Landscape Garden-
ing. The preparation for the lawn is too often hastily
and imperfectly made ; it is the foundation of all subse-
quent operations, and if imperfectly done at first, the fault
can never be remedied afterward. The first point is to
get the grounds shaped to the desired grade, taking care
in grading, that when hills are removed, sufficient subsoil
is also removed, to be replaced with top soil ; so that
at least 6 inches of good soil will overlay the whole in all
places. When the grading is finished, drains should be
laid wherever necessary, then the whole should be thor-
oughly plowed, a subsoil following in the wake of the
common plow, until it is completely pulverized. A
heavy harrow should then be applied until the surface is
thoroughly fined down ; all stones, roots, etc., should be
removed, so that a smooth surface may be obtained. The
lawn is now ready to be sown ; when the seed is sown, a
light harrow should again be applied, and after that a
thorough rolling given, so that the surface is made as
smooth as possible. In the latitude of New York, the
seed may be sown anytime during the months of April
and May, and will form a good lawn by August, if the
preparation has been good ; if sown in the hot months of
June or July, a sprinkling of oats should be sown at the
same time, so that the shade given by the oats will pro-
tect the young grass from the sun. Lawns are also some-
times sown during the early fall months with excellent
results. For small plots, of course, digging, trenching,
and raking must be done instead of plowing, subsoiling,
I*

10 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

and harrowing, and when good material is at hand, and
immediate effect desired, such plots may be turfed or sod-
ded instead of being sown.

The mixture of grass seed best suited for forming lawns
is composed as follows :

12 quarts Rhode Island Bent Grass.
4 " Creeping Bent Grass.
10 tc Red Top Grass.
3 " Sweet Vernal Grass.
2 " Kentucky Blue Grass.
1 " White Clover.

1 Bushel.

From 2 to 5 Bushels are required per acre, according to
the condition of the soil, more being required on a poor
soil than on a rich one.

Laying out the Flower Garden,— In the vicinity of
New York, the taste displayed in this matter is certainly
not very flattering to us ; compared with that shown in
the suburbs of London or Paris, we are wofully behind.
Our city merchants annually build hundreds of houses, the
cost of which ranges from $10,000 to $50,000 each, but
the flower garden surrounding the house is in nineteen
cases out of twenty left to the tender mercies of some ig-
noramus who styles himself a " Landscaper," and who
generally manages before he is through to make the pro-
prietor appear to be utterly devoid of taste, if not actually
ridiculous. A worthy of this stamp held kingly sway as
a " Landscaper " in the vicinity of New York a few years
ago, an\I has left behind him some wonderful specimens of
his art ; he was great on " Sarpentine " walks, as he called
them, and had a true artist's horror of straight lines. It
would have been useless for Euclid to have attempted to
demonstrate that the nearest distance between two points
was a straight line. Terry knew better than that, and
curved accordingly. One of the most marked of his

DESIGNS FOB OENAMENTAL GROUNDS. 11

efforts was made in behalf of a "shoddy" king who had
built a splendid mansion in about the middle of a four-acre
lot. The carriage drive entering at each side of the plot,
was made in his best " Sarpentine " style, but the centre
approach, a six-foot walk for pedestrians, started at a
point in the centre of the block, and was twisted like a
corkscrew until it reached the hall' door. The portly
owner submitted like a martyr for awhile, but eventually
snubbed Terry's science, obliterated the walk, and got a
more expeditious, if less artistic method of getting to
his home ; his dogs and children, having less reverence for
Terry's art, had long before taken the initiative. But
this is only telling what not to do, which perhaps is as
necessary as to tell what to do in the brief space that this
subject can be treated of in this work. The following
remarks and drawings are the work of Eugene A. Bau-
mann, Esq., of Rahway, N". J., whose ability as a practical
Landscape Gardener is perhaps second to none in this
country; as the thousands of acres of tasteful grounds
laid out by him in this and adjacent States during the
past dozen years well attest.

CHAPTER III.

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS AND FLOWER
GARDENS.

DESIGN FOB A CITY OB VILLAGE LOT.

Figure 1 gives a plan for a city or village lot of
100x200 feet, fronting south, but without stable or carriage
house.

The dwelling at 1 is supposed to be without area, or
entrance to the basement and cellars from outside, but

12 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

with the water-table, or first floor, raised above the
ground some five feet, and the earth from the foundations
and cellars employed for a terrace, rising about two and
a half feet above the ordinary level, which is understood
to be some two feet above that of the public road.

This plan is entirely in the geometric style, or with
straight walks exclusively, as we think that, considering
everything, this arrangement is the most suitable for small
lots.

What, indeed, is the best use to which to put so little
room ? Fruit trees, vegetables, and large pieces of lawn
are not what are here required ; fruit and vegetables the
proprietor may procure at the market cheaper than he
could raise them ; lawns or grass plots would not be ac-
cessible for any amusement or exercise in damp or rainy
weather. Therefore I consider well-made walks, that may
be dry in the afternoon of a rainy day, much more needed
for the promenade of persons, who, having been busy all
day, require some exercise and fresh air in the evening.
Fine shrubbery, flower-beds, and shade are also required.

In a planting of the right sort, it requires not much
depth to form good belts to protect the place against the
cold winds, or sometimes against cool neighbors.

A large display of flowers does not require a very large
space of ground, and if plenty of flowers should be
wanted, as is generally the case, their quantity may be in-
creased by a judicious selection of flowering shrubbery.

For a more sheltered, shady walk, I should, in such a
place, suggest a well-built arbor too, covered on top with
out-door grape vines, and on the side towards the house
with fine flowering climbers, or those that have good and
durable foliage, such as Climbing Roses and Honeysuckles,
the Clematis, Akebia, Virginia Creeper, Bittersweet (or
Celastrus scandens). Wistaria Sinensis, etc., as perma-
nent plants, which may be trained so as to cover the whole
front ; and then, for variety, of a dwarfer habit and cover-

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS.

13

STREELT.
Fig. 1.— DESIGN FOR A VILLAGE LOT.

14 PEACriCAL FLOEICITLTUEE.

ing the lower parts, the Madeira Yine, Canary-bird Plant,
and Adlumia. Some of the new Cucurbitaceae, the broad-
leaved Periwinkle, Ivies, and a number of other sorts,
may be recommended.

I intend, in progressing with the explanation of the
numbered objects of this plan, to give a list of such trees
and shrubs as are required on a small place. It is a
point which ought always to be considered, that trees and
shrubs fit for a large place are not exactly suited to a
small one, whatever may be their appearance or effect in
the first four or five years ; the mistakes are only seen in
after years. Fortunately for the generality of the " land-
scapers," before the effect of their work is shown, the
owner has removed to a bigger house, or the planting has
been neglected and the trees have died, or the "land-
scaper" has found employment far away out West, caring
very little how his chef tfceuvres in the East may look.

At 2 is the terrace, with the embankment. Small em-
bankments ought to be of the most simple shape ; any
fancy outlines in the slope, on a small scale, will only be
seen when the grass is freshly cut short, and they are
therefore of no use. 3 is the main approach to the dwell-
ing. (See scale for width.) At 20, in a small circle, it is
intended to employ a fine bush of Pyrus Japonica, to
interrupt the view from the street. 4 is a smaller walk,
intended for the use of the family, but forming with the
walk 3 a continuous circuit around the place. 5 is intend-
ed for a small yard in the rear of the house, with the well
at 13. 6, a six-foot walk, passing underneath the arbor ;
a shady place in summer. 7, the arbor, with only spare
room enough left in its rear for attending to the climbers
and grape vines planted against it. 8, intended to be a
shed for wood and other articles, besides a hen-house,
with hen-yard, at 10. 9, office. 11, a bench, or resting-
place. 12, benches, or even stone seats, in recesses. 14, a
grass plot, to be used for a drying-ground, and also as

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 15

a play-ground for children, surrounded by seven deciduous
shade trees, which might be, in preference, the Silver-
leaved Maple (Acer dasycarpum^) a healthy, strong-grow-
ing, and clean tree. At 15, for variety of foliage, a Weep-
ing-Willow. 16, a hedge-row of Siberian Arbor- vitae.
17 is a flower-bed, with an outside border made of the
small-leaved, trailing Juniper, or J~uniperus procumlens.
This magnificent plant, which, in small beds, forms the
densest glaucous-green carpet, may be easily trained for a
border by planting small young plants at 8 to 10 inches
apart, and then guiding the main leader with small wooden
pins in the direction of the border. It offers something
entirely new in color and shape, and it is to be regretted
that it is so little in use.

A second border, immediately around the flower-bed,
affording a greater contrast in color, would be the small
Tom Thumb Arbor-vitae — a very precious novelty, too,
on account of its very dark foliage.

At 18, on the north-west side of the house, there would be
a very favorable location for a group of Rhododendrons
and other so-called North American evergreen shrubs.

At 19, may be placed two single bushes of Calycanthus
floridus, or, still better, two large vases or other pieces
of statuary.

At 21, a circle, to be decorated with a purple Beech, or
a good specimen of the Kilmarnock Willow.

At 22, all along the eastern boundary, a row of Norway
Spruces, Balsam Firs, and American Arbor-vitae, in the
rear, planted at sufficient distance from each other to per-
mit a second row in front of them (alternating), about 4
or 5 feet from the side of the walk.

In this front line ought to be employed Siberian Arbor-
vita3, Irish and Swedish Junipers, Golden Arbor-vitae, Up-
right Yews, Retinispora ericoides, and Podocarpus.

At 22 a, in the rear of the play-ground, there ought to
be the following shrubs, in three rows ; for instance, in tho

16 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTUIiE.

rear, the Venetian Sumac, Cercis Siliquastrum, and Cercis
Canadensis, Double White and Red Flowering Thorns,
American Mountain Ash, etc., etc., but no larger trees.

In the second row there might be planted (alternately)
the Purple Hazel (or Filbert), the Halesia tetraptera,
some Philadelphus, Euonymus, and Rose of Sharon.

In the third row, still smaller sorts, closing down to the
edging, such as the Purple Barberry, Hypericum Kalmia-
num, Daphne Mezereum, Cotoneasters, Prunus Sinensis,
and Prunus triloba. Herbaceous Plants, like Peonies,
Iris, Phloxes, etc., etc., may be added, too, to great ad-
vantage. *

At 23, the group near the front fence must be stocked
with such shrubs as will prevent outsiders from troubling
the privacy of the place, but low enough to allow the in-
mates to see the street from the piazza or first floor.

The following plants may best answer, viz. : Spiraea
Reevesii fl. pleno, Spiraea prunifolia, and Spiraea callosa,
Deutzia crenata fl. pleno, Crata3gus Pyracantha (near each
gate), and in front of these, towards the house, Hypericum
Kalmianum, Deutzia gracilis, Spiraea Fortunii, and some
herbaceous plants. 24, a corner group, ought to be filled
in the rear with one or two Virgilia lutea, and in front of
these there should be some five or six ^Esculus macro-
stachya, a shrub of a remarkable fine effect.

At 25 and 26, the two small groups could be employed
for Hydrangeas. 27 and 28 require, to hide the hen-
yard, some taller shrubs of the following sort : the Cali-
fornian Privet, some Lilacs, and the Golden Elder (Sambu-
cus nigra aurea.)

The small border, 29, may be employed for some
espaliers of Pears, Apricots, or Medlars.

30 is intended for flower-beds, arranged in the most
simple way, and which ought to be filled in the fall with
Dutch bulbs for the spring season, and in summer with
fine selected bedding plants, of very distinct colors, but

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 17

each separate color in one strip ; or with annuals, like Por-
tulaca, Phlox Drummondii, Nemophilas, etc., etc.

At a, in Div. 30, there may be some Magnolias, a Cercis
Japonica, and one Berberis macrophylla, or Japonica.

By mentioning exactly all the sorts of trees and shrubs
that I might employ, I do not intend to say that the laying
out may be a failure by employing other sorts, as corres-
ponding varieties in size and foliage will answer just as
well, but it will be noticed that I have mentioned no trees
of large size, except along the eastern boundary and the
play-ground. Indeed, of what use would it be to employ
Sugar Maples, Elms, Norway Maples, and Sycamores,
which after a few years would cover up half the width of
the place, and leave no room for good shrubbery and flow-
ers ; allow no sun in the place, and even prevent the turf

Fig. 2. — SECTION OF ROAD WITH SINGLE DRAIN.

from growing under their extended shade ? It would be
as sensible as to place in a small drawing-room a table, of
which the four corners would touch the four walls.

In the selection of the right kind of plants is the whole
secret of the art.

The walks in such a regular garden must be as well
graded as possible, and on the same level as the turf,
which ought not to overreach them more than 1 or 1£
inch. Very narrow walks, unless the grass is frequently
clipped, often look like ditches.

To establish such walks, if there is any drainage re-
quired, the digging out of the soil before stoning ought
to be as clearly denned and done as well as the dressing
of the top.

The best way to dig them out is, in general, for single
drains, according to the diagram, figure 2, and where

18 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

double drains are required, I generally recommend the
following system, shown in figure 3.

It will be seen by the first diagram that the bottom of
the ditch represented in the cut is an inclined plane, run-
ning downwards from one side of the walk toward the
opposite side to the drain, which I figure here simply as a
stone drain. The stoning is to be laid uprightly, and
never flat, on the hardened bottom of the ditch or dug-

Fig. 3. — SECTION OF ROAD WITH DOUBLE DRAINS.

out trench ; if laid flat, the stones will never bind together,
but if upright, they will soon become tight by the intru-
sion of the gravel that has to be put on top of them.

The depth of the trench depends very much on the
quality of the subsoil, and has to be regulated by it, and
so with the ditch for the drains.

Such walks also depend very much on the quality of
the soil, and very often, indeed generally, on the facility
of procuring the materials.

In some places I have seen walks and roads made by
simply scratching off three or four inches of light top soil,
beneath which was gravel several feet deep. Such a road
may be dry, but is very noisy, tiresome, and movable.

In other instances I have seen walks made by opening
ditches over four feet deep, only for the sake of burying
rocks and saving the soil found in digging ; these form
very fine drains, and help to clear the land of boulders
and rocks, as is the case on top of Orange Mountain, 1ST. J.

The second diagram (fig. 3) shows the section of a walk or
drive requiring more drainage. The bottom between the
two drain ditches forms a curving line, on which, if well
placed, the stones will soon form an arch, and give the road
all the qualities required.

DESIGNS FOE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 19

The depth here is not as much regulated by the quality
of the soil as by the width of the drive or roads. The
more convexity given the bottom, the better for the
absorption of the water by the drain, which ought to be
at least 12 inches deeper than the extremity of the curve,
whilst the top of the curve must remain at least 6 inches
below the top of the road or drive.

Frequent raking, to remove the larger gravel or pebbles,
and more frequent rolling during damp weather, are neces-
sary for new walks.

If good clay is at hand, a thin coat of it may be put
between the coarse and the fine gravel on top.

Gutters made of flagstone, or simply paved, will be
needed only where there is a great descent and a large
accumulation of water above, or sometimes even where
the ground is very light and sandy, although the surface
may slope but very little.

In uneven grounds, drives and walks are to be made in
the same manner, but their finish and beauty will never
depend upon themselves, nor upon the way in which they
are laid down. An additional, correct grading of the
grounds, right and left, so as to bring the sod every-
where at equal height over the gravel, and then a careful
grading of the grounds 3, 4, to 6 feet off the margin,
where the soil rises or falls, is indispensable in such cases
to make a finished drive.

The staking out of such uneven walks, and the regular
distribution of their grading, to avoid unsightly ups and
downs, is a matter of taste and practice, ruled by the
shape of the land and the direction of the walks.

DESIGN FOR A FLOWER-GARDEN.

We give in figure 4 (next page) a design for a regular
flower-garden, intended for the ornamenting of the foot
of a terrace, built in front of a large villa.

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

The terrace is intended to be of a heavy stone work,
about three feet above the ground, with a projection in

Fig. 4.— DESIGN FOR A FLOWER GARDEN.

the middle and two steps on each side, leading to the
main walks in the flower-garden.

Such an arrangement, often seen in English villas, or in
English designs, belongs only to large pleasure grounds,
and may be considered as the real " dress ground."

DESIGNS FOE ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS. 21

This design has been expressly made with the view of
keeping in order cheaply.

The lawn, or what is to be kept in sod, is as much as
possible in regular straight lines, easily mowed with some
of the patent lawn-mowers.

The walks are wide, as, starting from the bottom of
the terrace, they will be overlooked the whole length
from the top, and would appear scanty if not of liberal
dimensions.

The place is intended to be kept as private as possible, —
a sort of open-air saloon, — by a belt of selected shrubbery,
and shade trees in its rear.

At 1, there are seats indicated in several recesses cut
into the shrubs, the seats to be of heavy timber, as stone
would be rather too cool, and iron or rustic work not
looking architectural enough.

At 2, there are pedestals for pieces of statuary, or vases
or large specimen plants in painted boxes.

At 3, 4, and 6, groups of Roses, bedding-out plants of
broad, showy foliage, or flowering shrubs, such as Hydran-
geas, which continue long in bloom.

At 5, the centre piece, there is a large flower-bed for
Scarlet Geraniums, Feverfew, etc., surrounded by a border
of Irish Ivy, kept in line, so as not to exceed 12 to 18
inches in width.

Such borders of Ivy, if employed in the right place,
and well kept in order, are a magnificent ornament to a
garden, and, according to their location, may be kept 3 and
4 feet wide. A very little covering in winter will keep
the foliage, of the right sort, in very good order.

In the large squares, plainly sodded, that are in the
gardens of the Louvre and the Tuileries, at Paris, there
is no other ornament but such borders of broad-leaved
Ivy, established at 3 to 4 feet from the walks, and left
running about 2 to 3 feet wide ; and they make, with the
dark green or the lighter turf, a most striking show.

PEACTICAL FLOEICULTUKE.

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS.

At 7, on the floor of the terrace, and protected by the

Fig. 6.— DESIGN FOB A FLOWER-BED IN A WALK.— (Seepage 25.)

shade of the balustrade, there will be a very good location
for hardy Rhododendrons, and similar shrubs.

DESIGN FOR A PARTERRE.

The design (figure 5) represents a parterre to be

Fig. 7.— DESIGN FOR FLOWER-BED IN A WALK.— (Seepage 26.)
established in front of a large green-house, or conserva-

24

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

tory, and bringing together, in one single spot, all the
flower-beds generally scattered over the lawn, on a large
place. For privacy, it is surrounded by a belt of flower-
ing shrubs.

Two principal flower-beds, at 1 and 2, are intended to
be surrounded by a small evergreen border, kept for itself,

Fig. 8.— FLOWER-BEDS AT THE JUNCTION OF WALKS.— (Seepage 26.)

and not to be considered as an edging ; small edging-box
might answer best.

At 3, there are recesses for statuary, behind which the
foliage ought to be of the darkest kind, to keep the white
statuary well in sight.

DESIGNS FOR ORNAMENTAL GROUNDS.

25

At 4, similar recesses for seats of heavy timber.

At 5, in front of the green-house, alternating with the
flower-beds, are single, upright-growing evergreens, sym-
metrically planted, such as Irish and Swedish Junipers,
Taxus erecta, Podocarpus Japonica, Retinispora, etc.

At 6, single specimens of shrubs of medium size,

Fig. 9. — FLOWER-BEDS AT THE TERMINUS OF A WALK.

remarkable for their flowers, fragrance, or fine foliage ;
for example, Deutzia crenata flore pleno, Pyrus Japonica,
Cratoegus Pyracantha, or the Prunus triloba.

FLOWER BEDS IN WALKS, OR JUNCTIONS OF WALKS.

Figure 6 (p, 23), an4 the three following illustrations, are
Designs for introducing ornamental planting where oppor-

2

26 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

tunity offers along the course of a walk. In figure 6, the
walk divides and passes each side of a bed of choice shrub-
bery, while the opposite sides of the walk are planted with
some of the select shrubs already named, or others. By
the judicious use of flowering shrubs, and the low-grow-
ing evergreens, very fine effects may be produced. In
figure 7, is a similar but more elaborate plan, which allows
of the introduction of flowers in masses ; such an arrange-
ment would be very appropriate for a rose-garden. In fig.
8, we have a design for ornamenting the point at which
two walks unite at right angles. The planting may be of
Ivy, Trailing Juniper, and other low-growing Evergreens,
upon a ground-work of well-kept grass, or flowers may be
introduced. In figure 9, we have a bit of ornamental
flower garden at the terminus of a walk. What has been
said of the selection of shrubs, etc., in describing the larger
designs, will be a sufficient guide in carrying out these
smaller plans.

CHAPTER IV.

PLANTING OF FLOWER-BEDS.

Much difference prevails in the modes of planting
flower-beds, some holding to the promiscuous intersper-
sion of the different plants, others to the ribbon or carpet
style of planting, now so general in Europe. If the pro-
miscuous system is adopted, care should be taken to dis-
pose the plants in the beds so that the tallest plants will
be at the back of the bed, if the border is against a wall
or background of shrubbery, the others gradating to the
front, according to height. In open beds, on the lawn,
the tallest should be at the centre, the others grading

PLANTING OP FLOWER-BEDS. 27

down to the front, on all sides, interspersing the colors so
as to form the most agreeable contrast in shades. But,
for grand effect, nothing, in our estimation, can ever be
produced in promiscuous planting to equal that obtained
by planting in masses or in ribbon lines. In the grounds
of the Crystal Palace, near London, and at the Jardin des
Plantes, in Paris, wonderful specimens of this mode of
planting are to be seen. The lawns are cut so as to
resemble rich green velvet ; on these the flower-beds are
laid out in every style that art can conceive ; some are
planted in masses of blue, scarlet, yellow, crimson, white,
etc., separate beds of each, harmoniously blended on the
carpeting of green. Then, ngain, the ribbon style is used
in the large beds, in forms so various that allusion can
here be made to only a few of the most conspicuous. In
a circular bed, say of 20 feet in diameter, the first line
towards the grass is blue Lobelia, attaining a height of 6
inches; next comes the famous Mrs. Pollock Geranium,
occupying the space of 1-J- foot wide and 9 inches high,
with its gorgeous leaves and flowers ; then, against that, is
a line of Mountain of Snow Geranium, with its silvery
white foliage and scarlet flowers, backed by the chocolate-
colored Coleus Verschaffeltii ; the centre being a mound
of scarlet Salvia. Another style is a fringe for the front
of the fern-like white-leaved Centaurea gymnocarpa;
back of that is the Crystal Palace Scarlet Geranium ; then
Phalaris arundinacea picta, a new style of Ribbon Grass ;
next, Coleus Verschaffeltii, and, in the centre, a clump of
Canna, or Pampas Grass.

For beds, at a distance, having a background of shrub-
bery, large and bright-colored foliage, or showy-flowering
plants only should be used ; of these, an excellent effect
is produced by having Amarantus sanguineus for the
background, a plant of crimson foliage growing 6 feet
in height; next that, Salvia Gordonii, with its scarlet
feather-like flowers, attaining a height of four feet, fronted

58 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

by Dactylis gloinerata variegata, one of the most beauti-
ful variegated grasses, which grows some 2 feet high.

For narrow beds along the margins of walks, ribbon
lines should be formed of low-growing plants, such as the
white Lobelia Snowflake, for the front line, followed next
by Tom Thumb Tropeolum ; then, as the centre, or third
line, Fuchsia Golden Fleece ; as a second marginal line
on the other side, Geranium Flower of Spring, with its
white foliage and scarlet flowers, followed by a line of
Lobelia Paxtonii.

CHAPTER V.

SOILS FOR POTTING.

I rarely pick up a work on floriculture but the matter
of soils is treated of in such a way as to be perfectly be-
wildering to amateurs, if not also to professional florists.
One authority gives a table of not less than 19 sorts !
Whether these authorities practice as they preach is very
questionable ; some of them I know do not, but why they
should thus write to mystify those they attempt to teach,
can only be ascribed to a desire to impress their readers
with the profundity of their knowledge on such subjects.
Now, what is the effect of such instructions? Our ama-
teur cultivators are disheartened, as such combinations are
to them perfectly impracticable. The private garderer.
perhaps, falls back on his employer, and ascribes the un-
healthy condition of his plants to the effect of his not
being able to procure such and such a soil, which, he says,
is necessary for some special class of plants, and excuses
his failures thereby. The young florist, beginning busi-
ness in some country town, with restricted means, and with

SOILS FOR POTTING. 29

limited knowledge of what he is undertaking, looks upon
this august authority in despair, and his heart sinks within
him when he knows that no silver sand is within a thou-
sand miles of him, and he is told, without qualification,
that it is necessary for his propagating bench, or as an
ingredient in his potting soils. He begins without it, and
as he will possibly make some failures, these failures are
laid at the door of the soil or sand that he has been
obliged to use, while the chances are, twenty to one, that
they were not. Not the least satisfaction I have in writing
this book is, that of being able to attempt the simplifica-
tion of many of our operations to such an extent as to
put the means of doing the work within reach of any
one. Not the least simple of these operations is the
preparation of our Potting Soil. We have, we may say,
only one heap — a big one it is — but it contains only two
ingredients, rotted sods, from a loamy pasture, and rotted
refuse hops from the breweries, in about the proportion of
two of the sods to one of the hops. The sods are cut
during spring or summer, and laid, with grassy sides to-
gether, so as to decompose, and the heap is repeatedly
turned until it becomes friable. The rotted refuse hops
(one year old), or rotted manure, is then added, either at
once or when the soil is wanted for potting. For small
pots, — from 2 to 4 inches — we run it through a sieve of -J-
inch meshes, which thoroughly incorporates the parts ; for
larger pots, it is not necessary to run it through a sieve,
unless, perhaps, for the sake of thoroughly mixing, it may
be quicker to run it through a 1^-inch screen or sieve. If
the loam is rather clayey, we use more hops ; if rather
sandy, less than the proportion named. If refuse hops
are not attainable, thoroughly rotted horse or cow manure
will do nearly as well. From this mould heap the soil is
taken in which our plants of every description aro
grown and flowered; we make no exceptions, unless
in the case of the few fine-rooting plants, such as Heaths,

30 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Azaleas, Epacris, etc. In potting these, we use about
two-thirds of the decayed refuse hops, to one of loam; if
the hops are not attainable, leaf mould from the woods
will do, in lieu of the hops, for this purpose. Our general
mould heap supplies the soil, alike for Bouvardias, Be-
gonias, Carnations, Camellias, Chrysanthemums, Daphne,
Dracenas, Dahlias, Fuchsias, Ferns, Gazanias, Gardenias,
Geraniums, Hyacinths, Liliums, Lantanas, Petunias, Pan-
sies, Roses, Tuberoses, Violets, and Verbenas. Whether
plants show vigorous growth under this universal applica-
tion of soil to their varied natures, our hundreds of
patrons, who will be readers of this book, can attest. If
any of the disciples of the old school doubt this, let them
come and have ocular evidence of the fact. Our location
is within half an hour's walk (or 15 minutes' ride) of the
city of New York ; our gates and doors are always open ;
visitors are free to go and examine as they choose. They
will see our mould heap looming up like a miniature
mountain ; they will see hundreds of thousands of plants,
natives of every clime, deriving their luxuriant growth
from this one source. While ignoring the necessity of
special varieties of soil, for special families of plants, I do
not mean to say that plants may not be grown as well by
the use of such different compounds as by ours ; but I
claim, as a whole, they can be grown no better, and that
the advice to make use of these combinations is bewilderin^

o

to the amateur, or inexperienced gardener, troublesome in
its practice, and of no benefit whatever in its results. In
proof of this, I have, on different occasions, received
Camellias from half a dozen different growers in Phila-
delphia, hardly two of whom use the same soil, but all
grow them well. So in the vicinity of New York, where
the soil is varied at the different points, as much as soil
can be ; yet we see growers using very different compounds
with equally good results, showing, as has long ago been
satisfactory to me, that special soils have less to do with

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 31

the healthy growth of plants than the proper application
of temperature and moisture.

CHAPTER VI.

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE.

In a recent number of the New York Horticulturist, I
took occasion to express my views on this matter, under
the head of " Don't Mistake the Causes," which I again
present here, with some additions.

Many young gardeners and amateurs flounder befogged,
attributing failure of crops in the garden, or want of
health of plants in the green-house, to bad seeds, uncon-
genial soil or fertilizers, when it is much oftener the case
that the cause is of a totally different nature, and entirely
within their control. A temperature at which seeds are
sown and plants grown must be congenial to the nature
of the variety, else success can not follow. In a tempera-
ture at which a Portulaca will vigorously germinate, a
Pansy seed would lie dormant, or at least show a sickly
existence, and vice versa. Nearly half of the Lima beans
sown annually perish by being sown from two to three
weeks too early, by the impatience of our embryo horticul-
turists. On the other hand, the colder-blooded Carrot or
Turnip seed all but refuse to germinate in the sultry days
of July. Seeds of Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Chinese Prim-
roses, and Pansies, will germinate more freely and make
better plants by delaying the sowing until the middle of
September than if sown earlier. Many failures are attrib-
utable to want of knowledge of this fact, and, without
question, laid to the charge of the seedsman.

The same necessity of accommodating the temperature

32 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

to the nature of a matured plant exists even to a greater
extent than it does with the seed ; and one of the main
causes of want of success in cultivating plants under glass
is a want of knowledge, or from carelessness in keeping a
temperature unsuited to the growth of the plants. In
ordinary green-house collections the fault is oftener in the
temperature being kept too high than too low, for it is
much easier, requiring far less watchfulness by the person
in charge to keep up a high temperature. The injury
done by this is gradual, and will not, like the action of
frost on the plants, show in the morning. In consequence
of this, we often see the green-houses containing Camel-
lias, Azaleas, Pelargoniums, Carnations, etc., etc., swelter-
ing under a continued night temperature of 60° or 65°,
when their nature demands 20° lower.

It is true, we too often see collections of hot-house and
green-house plants intermingled, and attempts made to
grow them,. which, of necessity, result in failure to one or
the other. The temperature to grow, in healthy condition,
Coleus, Bouvardia, or Poinsettia (hot-house plants) would
not be likely to maintain Verbenas, Carnations, or Gerani-
ums long in a healthy state. The same rules follow as to
the propagating-house, showing the necessity, even in a
greater degree, of observing the requirements of their differ-
ent natures. Coleus, Bouvardia, Begonia, and Lantana root
in a bottom heat of 75°, with atmospheric temperature of
65°, in ten days ; at 20° lower they will not root at all,
but will perish. Although cuttings of plants of a more
hardy nature will root in some conditions of growth at
this temperature, yet we prefer, to insure plants of vigor-
ous health, that Verbenas, Carnations, Geraniums, Roses,
etc., be rooted in a temperature at least 15° lower, both
in the bottom heat and temperature of the house.

The subject is one that relates to so many varieties and
different conditions of organism at the different seasons
of growth, that it is impossible to convey to the inexperi-

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE. 33

enced what these varieties and conditions are ; but my
object is to impress upon young or inexperienced readers
what I have long believed to be an important truth — that
the supplying the proper conditions of temperature to
plants under glass, according to their different natures
and conditions, has as much, or more, to do with their
welfare than any other cause ; and that often when ascrib-
ing the unhealthy state of a plant to uncongenial soil or
defective drainage, or the "damping off" of some favorite
cutting to the way it was cut or the sand it was put in,
the true and sole cause of failure was nothing more than
condemning them to an atmosphere uncongenial to their
nature.

Thus far, we mainly allude to temperature. Serious
injury is often done to plants from a want of, or excess of,
moisture. The old gardener with whom my first essay in
gardening was made used to define the difference in dryness
in plants as " dry " and " killing dry ;" " dry " was the
proper condition that the plant should be in, when water
was applied, the surface indicating dryness by becoming
lighter, but no flagging or wilting ; but woe betide the
unfortunate that allowed a plant in charge to become in the
condition of " killing dry ;" this in his eye was an unpar-
donable offence. " Killing dry" was, to some extent, really
killing in such a collection as we grew, which consisted
largely of Cape Heaths, Epacris, and other hard-wooded
plants, which are easily killed outright by allowing their
tender, thread-like rootlets to become dry; unlike soft-
wooded plants, such as Geraniums, or Fuchsias, they have
less recuperative powers, so that a " dry" that would kill
a Heath would have only the effect to stagnate the growth
of a Geranium, and bring the tell-tale yellow leaves that
are certain, to follow whenever such plants have suffered for
a lack or excess of moisture. Although the effect of dry-
ing is, for the time being perhaps, less marked in a hard-
wooded plant than in a soft-wooded one, yet the ultimate
2*

34 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

effect is much more fatal. To the unpractised eye, a Heath
that has been injured by drouth may appear all right,
while it is gone beyond recovery. The old gardener
before alluded to used to make his dead Heaths do excel-
lent service in assisting him in some severe jokes played
on his less experienced brethren. Specimen plants of
Heaths were scarce, and in some sorts, very valuable, and
if he succeeded in making a present of one of these dead
plants to one of his less posted friends, it used to keep
him in good humor for a week.

No plant should ever be allowed to flag or wilt for
want of moisture, neither should it be watered until the
necessity for water is shown by the whitening of the

surface of the soil,
particularly if in
dull weather, or if
the green-house is
kept at a low tem-
perature. As a
rule, with green-

Fig. 10.-WATERING-POT. ^^ ^^ ^

in a night temperature of 45°, with a day temperature of
60°, watering twice a week from December to March will
generally be sufficient ; on the approach of clear weather,
with higher temperature in April and May, they will re-
quire daily attention.

Our practice is to water during winter with the common
rose watering-pots, of the pattern shown in fig. 10, giving
the plants water sparingly, or otherwise, as required.
But as spring opens, we go at the operation more expe-
ditiously, using a West's Force Pump (fig. 11), and 2-inch
rubber hose. To the end of the hose is attached a heavy
sprinkler, similar to that shown in the common watering-pot
(fig. 10). In all districts where there is no hydrant- water,
this means of watering will be found to be most thorough
and effective. In my work, " Gardening for Profit^" I

TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE.

35

expressed the opinion that no labor-saving appliance we
had ever used was so satisfactory as this ; two years have
passed since then, and, with increased work to do, we are
still more than satisfied. One man pumps, another regu-
lates the water and sprinkles it over the plants; each
green-house, of 100 feet long by 11 feet wide, is watered
thoroughly in 15 minutes ; the changing of the hose from
one house to another re-
lieves the workman from
the labor of pumping for
a few minutes, so that
when the change is made
of the hose to another
house, he is ready to
start afresh again. By
this mode of watering,
we not only give the
plants a thorough drench-
ing, but we save at least
three-fourths of the labor
that is usually spent in
watering with the water-
ing-pot. Some may ob-
ject to this rough-look-
ing way of watering
plants; to such we say,
even with the danger of
being thought to be
puffing our own wares, come and look at the results of
such rough work. We have now practised it for the past
four years, and have lost thousands of dollars by not
having done so from the beginning.

Two rules are laid down by nearly all writers that I
have read on floriculture, in reference to the water to be
used for plants; one, that it must be rain, or at least
" soft " water ; the other, that the water should be of the

Fig. 11.— WEST'S FORCE PUMP.

36 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

same temperature as the atmosphere in which the plants
are growing.

To both these dogmas, I beg to respectfully enter my
protest. Such dogmas are handed down from one to
another, without one in a hundred of those who hold
them having either the opportunity or inclination to test
their truth by experiment. My green-houses, at Jersey
City, for a dozen years, were entirely watered from a deep
well of hard water, \finter and summer, which might
average in temperature 40° ; most of my green-houses,
now at Bergen City, are watered from cisterns inside the
green-houses, from rain-water caught by the roof; yet we
have never been able to see that our plants have been any
better grown or healthier in one place than in the other.
If any one will take the trouble to reason for a minute,
he will understand why there is no necessity for this
equality of temperature between the water and the soil.
If we plunge a thermometer into the soil of a plant in the
hot-house, it may indicate say 80° ; if we pour a pint of
water at 40° into the soil, the temperature will not be 40°,
but about the mean between 40° and 80°, say 60°. Now
if the soil remained for any length of time at 60°, it might
be claimed to be injurious ; but it does not. In 10 minutes
it will become of the same temperature as before it was
watered, or nearly so, by the absorption of heat from the
atmosphere of the house. It is the duration of extremes
of temperature that does the mischief; place a plant of
Coleus in a temperature of 33° for 24 hours, and it will be
almost certain to die, while it would remain as many
minutes without injury. Let a dash of sun raise the tem-
perature of your hot-bed to 100°, or over, for 10 minutes,
and it will not seriously injure the contents, but an hour
of this temperature might destroy the whole.

We pour ice-water into our stomachs at a temperature
of less than 40°, with impunity, because but a few minutes
suffices to bring it to the temperature it meets with there ;

THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 37

did we swallow a sufficient quantity to keep the stomach
at the temperature of ice-water for any length of time,
fatal results would follow.

A point indispensable in our hot and arid climate is,
that all plants in the green-house should stand on close
benches, overlaid with sand or ashes, or some such mate-
rial This keeps moist and prevents the plants from suf-
fering, if any omission occur in watering. We know that
the practice in many places is entirely different from this,
the plants being stood on benches of open slat-work.
No plant can be kept healthy in such a place, unless with
at least double the labor of watering necessary with those
standing on sand. This, like many other of our mistakes,
is copied from the mode pursued in England, where a
colder, moister, and less sunny climate may make it a
necessary practice.

For this reason also, we prefer to use benches, or tables,
instead of the stair-like green-house stage, which is now
almost discarded wherever plants are grown for sale.

CHAPTER VII.

THE POTTING OF PLANTS.

The first operation of potting is when the rooted cutting
is transferred from the cutting-bed to the pot. Almost
without exception, plants of every variety, at this -stage,
should be placed in a 2-inch pot ; occasionally some of the
coarser-growing Geraniums may require the 3-inch size,
from the fact of the roots being too large for the 2-inch ;
but there are few exceptions of this kind. The great
mass of plants, when in the condition of rooted cuttings,

38 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

do much better in the smaller size, for the reason that the
smaller mass of soil in the 2-inch pot allows the moisture
to pass off quicker, and thereby prevents the soil from
becoming sour, or sodden, which would be the case, more
or less, if the cutting had been overpotted in a 3 or 4-inch
pot. The operation of potting cuttings is very simple,
and, in florists' establishments, is performed with great
rapidity, average workmen doing 200 plants per hour.
The pot is filled to the level with soil, a space made with
the finger, in the centre of the soil, of sufficient size to
admit the root, which is placed in the opening thus
made ; the soil is closed in again by pressing with the
thumbs, close to the neck of the cutting, which firms the
soil around the root ; a smart rap is struck the side of
pot with the hand, which levels the surface of the soil, and
the operation is done. For nearly all the commoner kinds
of bedding plants, such as Verbenas, Heliotropes, etc.,
cuttings in these 2-inch pots, if stood on tables, which are
covered with an inch of sand, and occasionally moved, to
keep the roots from pushing too far through into the sand,
will grow in a healthy condition from three to four
months, at least, at the cool season of the year, from
January to May. But when plants are required to be
grown as specimens, or of larger size for sale in spring,
they must be repotted at intervals, as the condition of
their growth demands ; for example, to grow a Fuchsia
of a height of 6 feet and 3 feet in diameter, a pot of at
least 12 inches across at top, and 12 inches in depth, would
be necessary, but it would not do to jump from the 2-inch
cutting pot to this size at once ; three or four different
shifts. are necessary to attain this end ; these shifts should
be made, as a general thing, not greater than from a 2-
inch size to a 4-inch, and so on. I know that, a few years
ago, considerable agitation was made in favor of what was
termed the "one shift system," and fine specimens were
exhibited by its advocates, to show its advantages. There

THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 39

is no question that, in the hands of a careful and experi-
enced man, it can be done, but it must necessitate much
closer watching in watering, involving much more labor
than the trouble of the safer plan of repeated sbiftings.
The time to shift a plant from a smaller to a larger pot is
shown by the roots beginning to mat around the outer
surface of the ball. It is not necessary to shift when the
first roots touch the side of the pot ; let them curl pretty
well around the ball, but they must not be allowed to
remain long enough to become hard or woody. They must
be of that condition known to gardeners as " working
roots," a condition not very easy to describe, unless to
say that the appearance of such roots is white, soft, and
succulent. We would think that the mode of shifting a
plant from a smaller to a larger pot would soon suggest itself
to the operator, even though he had never seen it done ;
but it is a little ludicrous to see the various absurd
methods sometimes resorted to by our amateur friends to
attain this very simple end. One proceeds with a knife
and inserts it all around the sides of the pot, and thus
scoops it out ; another favorite way is to break the pot
with a hammer. I have known many of our lady amateurs
to practice these methods, who, no doubt, knew well how
to turn a pudding or a jelly out of a form, but who did
not think that the ball of earth enveloping the roots of a
plant could be turned out of a flower-pot in the same way.
In most cases, the slightest tap on the edge of the pot is
sufficient to turn out the ball of earth. Soil, in depth ac-
cording to the size of the plant, should be placed in the
bottom of the pot, the ball placed in the centre, and the
soil packed moderately firm in the space, either by the
fingers or by a piece of stick made cf suitable size for the
purpose. When plants are first potted off, or shifted, they
should be stood with the pots touching each other, if the
diameter of the plant is less than that of the pot ; but, as
they begin to develop growth, the plant? should be spread

40 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

apart, according to their size or development of foliage,
to allow the air free circulation about the outside of the
pots. The effect of this is most marked in the green-
house, and teaches us a lesson as to the great necessity of
the admission of air to the roots in all our' operations,
whether under glass or in the open field. If we pot off a
lot of Fuchsias, Geraniums, or other large-leaved plants,
with the pots touching each other, and place them in a
temperature of 60°, in eight or ten days they will have
grown so as to cover the whole space over, so that the pots
can hardly be seen. Examine those in the centre of the
lot, and it will be found that the roots that have reached
to the side of the pot are few and feeble ; but move a por-
tion of the pots so that a space of an inch or two is made
between each, to give the air a free circulation around
the pots, and in six days after it will be found that strong
and healthy roots will have been emitted by those that
have been given the additional space, while the others left
standing close have made little or no progress in root
formation, and but a slender and weakly upward growth.
The roots in the open field, could we see them in their
unbroken state, as we can in turning out a plant from a
pot, would show the same differences in vitality under cor-
responding circumstances.

It has often been a matter of surprise to many amateurs,
and even professional gardeners, how it is that such extraor-
dinary vigor and health are obtained in the plants grown by
many New York florists, in pots that seem to be entirely
inadequate in size for the support of such vigor. This is
done by a practice not very generally known outside of
this vicinity. When a plant shows by the condition of its
roots that it requires a supply of fresh soil for its support,
instead of shifting it into a large pot, it is taken out and
the soil washed clean from the roots, and either placed
back again in the same pot, in fresh soil, or in one of a
single sizo larger.

TUB POTTING OF PLANTS. 41

Tliis washing the soil from the roots, instead of shaking
it off, has the advantage of leaving all the fibres or work-
ing roots intact, while by shaking the soil off the ball, the
most valuable parts of the root are injured. Plants thus
grown are particularly valuable for distant shipment, as a
strong-rooted and vigorous plant is obtained without the
necessity of shipping a heavy weight of soil.

The same practice is resorted to in another way, to
effect a saving of freight in shipments. For many years
we have sent to our patrons in the trade thousands of
plants annually, every particle of soil being first washed
from the roots ; the plants, in all cases, arriving in as fine
order as if they had been sent with the ball of soil around
them, and saving at least nine-tenths of the freight.

This practice, however, is not proper, unless the season
is early enough for the plants to have time to become
established in the pots, and it is not prudent to do so later
than March. If the weather is hot, more care is neces-
sary in shading the plants until they have begun to root
in the new soil.

I have never yet seen any writer on floriculture but who,
in his instructions on the potting of plants, reiterates the
cry of his predecessors about the imperative necessity of
draining pots, in the operation of shifting or potting
plants. This draining process is performed in various
ways, according to the school in which the operator has
been trained, or whose book authority he has taken as his
guide ; one simply places a piece of potsherd, or crock,
over the hole in the bottom of the pot ; another goes at it
more elaborately, placing large pieces below, and grading
off with finer ones, to the height of 2 or 3 inches ; another
finds great virtue in charcoal, as a drainage, used in the
same way ; another knows that oyster-shells, for that pur-
pose, cannot be excelled, and practices accordingly.

Now fifteen years' extensive practice in the growing of
plants, without the use of crocks, charcoal, or any other

42 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

substitute, has led me to believe that the system is utterly
wrong in theory and perfectly useless in practice.

It is wrong in theory, for I contend that the escape of
moisture or draining from the flower-pots takes place, in
a very slight degree, from the bottom, but almost entirely
from the porous sides of the flower-pot. Every gardener
knows how quickly the soil gets sour in a glazed, a dirty,
or a hard-burned pot, let him drain or crock it as he will,
and that yellow leaves and a sickly growth quickly fol-
low. If the patient is not too far gone, removal from the
glazed pot to one of proper texture will quickly recusci-
tate, even if the draining or crocking is dispensed with.
Whenever we wish to recuscitate an unhealthy plant, we
wash the soil from the roots and pot in a new pot, where
the drainage is perfect from its porous sides. What better
evidence can be given than this universally known fact
that the theory of the operation is wrong? Whether
this sufficiently proves the theory of the operation to be
wrong, may be questioned by some, but that the system
is useless, utterly useless, in our practice, cannot very well
be questioned. It is upwards of fifteen years since I
utterly dispensed with the use of the so-called draining
of pots ; in that time some millions of plants have been
grown by us, and few will say, from the appearance of
the plants, that they suffered by the deviation from the
orthodox system.

In our annual importations of English novelties, at prices
often double their weight in gold, the pots always come
filled one-third up with the inevitable potsherd. Little
reverence is had for this labor of poor John Bull ; the
smallest boy in our establishment learns to sneer at him
when he sees the drainage dispensed with, and the pam-
pered $10.00 novelty growing vigorously under our radical
regime.

"Ah ! but " exclaims some dyed-in-the-wool old fogy, " it's
all very well on your Roses and soft-wooded plants ; dis-

THE POTTING OF PLANTS. 48

pcnse with your crocking in growing Azaleas, Heaths,
Epacris, Camellias, and you will soon see how it will
result." Now if my theory is correct that the plant drains
from the sides, and not from the bottom of the pot, the
variety of plant has nothing to do with the matter, and
for that reason it makes no difference what is the size
or what the kind of plant grown, be it 6 inches or 6 feet,
be it a Scarlet Geranium or an Orchid. But though I
do not grow them now, I have grown Heaths, Camellias,
and Azaleas, without crocking, just as creditably as we
grow anything else. Heaths particularly, at one time,
we grew largely, supplying them to the "trade in large
quantities, for winter flowers. I am glad to know that
nearly all the larger florists' establishments thoughout the
country have abandoned this useless practice. I do not
know one in the vicinity of New York but where it is
ignored, unless, perhaps, when in growing large plants
of Roses or Camellias in boxes or tubs; but, in such cases,
there is not much chance for admission of air or evapora-
tion from the sides, and, to compensate for this, the
box or tub is usually filled with potsherds or charcoal to
one-third its depth. And, again, perhaps when pots too
large for the size of the plant are used, drainage to one-
third the depth is employed to counteract the injury that
would be done by too great a mass of soil around the
roots. That plants are grown as well in our florists'
establishments here as they are in England, there is but
little question. If the specimens of plants that we import
annually are fair examples, we think far better, although
I do not mean to say that the use of crocks is the diffi-
culty ; but in these large European establishments the pro-
prietor is apt, in many cases, to get above his business, and
leave it to the care of his subordinates. One great bar
to changes is the easy maxim, that we are all apt to
hold, "Let well enough alone." This, perhaps, is what
makes thousands excuse themselves for what I think is an

44: PRACTICAL FLOEICULTT7EE.

utterly useless practice in tliis case. Throwing a handful
of potsherds into the bottom of a pot will certainly not
injure the growth of a plant, neither would a gold dollar,
but neither would do any good ; the dollar would have
bought something, and so would the labor thrown away
in this useless operation.

An old farmer, in planting a peach orchard, in one of
the inland counties of this State, was informed by some
obliging neighbor that it would greatly improve their
growth if he would place a shovelfull of small stones
under each tree ; as chance would have it, the soil and
climate being suitable, the orchard was a success, and to
this day no man is supposed to know any thing about
planting peach trees in that neighborhood unless he knows
sufficient to place a few stones under the roots ! Most of!
our gardeners would laugh at these credulous farmers, but
to my notion, it is not one whit more absurd to place a
shovelfull of stones under a peach tree than it is to throw
a handfull of potsherds into the bottom of a flower-pot
before potting the plant.

The amateur, in potting his plants, will find it neces-
sary to place something over the hole in the bottom of
the pot, not for the purpose of drainage, but to prevent
the soil from shaking out. The hole may be covered
with a bit of broken pot, an oyster shell, chip, or what-
ever is at hand.

My apology for dwelling so long on this matter, is its
importance. The young beginner in the trade is not
likely to take my advice in such matters any more than
that of other authorities who counsel the opposite course,
and for that reason I have used what arguments I could
to overcome the impression that there is a necessity
for the practice of using drainage.

COLD FRAMES. — WINTER PROTECTION. 45

CHAPTER Yin.

COLD FRAMES.— WINTER PROTECTION.

Many of the plants used for the decoration of the flower-
borders in summer may be kept through the winter in
what are termed cold-frames, or sunken pits. These are
formed by excavating the earth about 2 feet deep and of
a width to suit the usual 6-foot sash, and of such length
as may be required. The sides of the pit are boarded up,
on the front or south side, to a height of 8 or 10 inches,
and at the back or north side, some 6 inches higher, to
give the necessary slope to carry off the water from the
sashes and to better catch the sun's rays. Thus formed,
the frame will measure about 3 feet deep from the sash in
front and about 3^-. feet at the back. Or, if the work is
desired to be permanent, the sides may be built of brick
instead of boards.

Above all other considerations, the place where the pit is
built must be free from standing water, and if not naturally
dry, must be drained so as to carry off the water. When-
ever practicable, the situation should be warm .and well
sheltered, as such a position will save a great deal in
winter covering. In such a pit tender Roses can be kept
in the best possible condition, better, in our opinion, than
in any green-house. If kept in pots, (which is the best
way to keep them) the pots should be plunged to the rim
in sawdust, leaves, tan bark, or some such light material.
Besides Roses, the plants embraced in the following list
may be wintered over with safety, provided that care is
taken to admit light and air, whenever the weather will
permit. The pits must be thoroughly covered up at night
\\ith mats and shutters; this, if well done, will keep

46 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

the plants from freezing injuriously in any district where
the thermometer does not fall more than 15° below zero.
Azaleas, Pentstemons,

Antirrhinums, Verbenas,

Carnations (Monthly), Stock Gilliflowers,
Camellias, Wallflowers.

Fuchsias, Roses of all kinds.

Geraniums, Pinks, (Florists'.)

Plants to be kept over in frames should be potted at
least a month previous to the setting in of cold weather ;
all had better be well established in the pots before the
middle of November, and until that time the plants should
be fully exposed to the light and air, by the entire removal
of the sashes, unless on unusually harsh and cold days.
From the middle of November to the middle of March but
little watering will be required. In cases of severe snow-
storms, the pit may remain covered up, if the weather is
cold, for a week at a time, without exposing the plants to
the light, and Roses, Camellias, or Azaleas, in a dormant
state, may remain even a month; but, as before said,
whenever practicable, admit light and air. For out-door
protection of Roses, see chapter devoted to them.

To amateurs we would say that many plants may be
saved in a dry, cool cellar much better than they can be
kept in most sitting-rooms. The plants that can be best
kept during winter in the cellar are Carnations, Fuchsias,
Geraniums, Roses, Lemon Verbenas, and Dahlia roots.
If the plants are to be lifted from the ground, cut away
all strong-growing shoots ; in the case of Geraniums or
Fuchsias, cut them well in, and plant them in shallow
(9-inch deep) boxes of soil, keeping them exposed to the
open air as late as the weather will permit. This can best
be done by taking them into some shelter at night and
exposing them to light and air through the clay ; this will
harden them to endure their winter quarters in the cellar.
Once placed in the cellar, if cool and moist, as cellars

CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS. 47

usually are, no water should be given until they are again
moved out to the light in May. Remember that thus im-
mersed in the dark cellar in their dormant state, water or
moisture would injure them beyond recovery, unless they
have become unusually dry.

CHAPTER IX.

CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS.

The most economical way of making hot-beds is to
place the manure in pits made in the way described for
Cold Frames, except that they may be made a foot or so
deeper, so as to admit at least 18 inches of manure.
The heating material for hot-beds is usually horse-manure,
but refuse hops, leaves from the woods, or tan bark, will
answer nearly as well when one is more readily attainable
than another.

Whatever material is employed, it should be thrown into
a heap of sufficient size to generate heat, and repeatedly
turned until the rank heat has been expelled, which will
usually be done by turning twice. The mass will be in the
proper condition to be put into the pit in eight or ten
days from the time of starting with the raw material. In
spreading it in the pit it should be firmly trodden down
to the depth of 18 inches, so that the heat may be longer
retained. If the hot-bed is to be used to receive plants
in pots, a covering of 4 to 6 inches of sawdust, in which
to place or plunge the pots, should be put over the
heating material. If the bed is to be used for the sowing
of annual or other seeds, a covering of 6 inches of light
soil should be put over the manure. Before placing plants
or sowing seeds in the hot-bed, plunge a thermometer
in the bed, and when the heat begins to decline from 100°

48 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

then operations may be begun with safety. But for what-
ever purpose a hot-bed is used, in all such latitudes as
New York, the bed should never be made before the first
week in March ; great risk is run if it is made much sooner,
with but little advantage in earliness. Greater caution is
necessary in airing than with the cold frame, for with
the hot-bed the heat from the manure, together with the
sun's rays, will often run the temperature in an hour so
high as to destroy its whole contents, if airing at the
proper time has been neglected. Many a merchant doing
business in the city has gone home in the evening to his
country residence to find that his hot-bed, that had been
his pride in the morning, had become a scorched brown
mass at night for want of attention to the safety-valve
of " airing." In such cases, when no competent person
is in charge, the safest way is to tilt the sashes a few
inches, even before the necessity arises, rather than run the
risk of the sun coming out strong and destroying the
whole. In a southern exposure, in a sheltered place, there
is rarely danger in admitting air in most days in March
or April from 9 to 4 o'clock. But, of course, judgment
must be used in extreme cases. The greater heat in the
hot-bed necessitates watering freely whenever the surface
of the soil appears dry, which, in dry weather, if the heat
is strong, will usually be every other day.

CHAPTER X.

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES.

I have a peculiar pleasure in beginning to describe our
present modes of constructing green-houses, well knowing
that hundreds of my readers will turn with interest to
this page, in the hope that they may be enlightened on a
subject on whicL doubtless many of them have seriously

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 49

blundered. I have no reason to complain of success in
business, but I feel well assured that for the first ten
years of my time many thousands of dollars were sacri-
ficed in the blunders made in my endeavor to get on the
right track.

There was no fixed system ; all was confusion, hardly
two of us building alike, and, in my humble opinion, most
of us building wrong.

The style of green-house to be built must be governed
by the purpose for which it is wanted. If for the growing
of a general assortment of green-house or bedding plants,
four years' working of those on the ridge and furrow
system, on the extensive scale in use by us, makes us con-
fident in the belief that that system is all we have previ-
ously claimed for it, as being the most economical of
space, most economical of heat, and most economical in
cost of construction.

Figure 12 represents the end section and ground plan
of the style of house referred to, which may be used
for the purpose of growing flowers for winter — Roses,
green-house, or bedding plants, or anything requiring
protection in winter. The green-houses represented in
this plan are 100 feet in length, and each 11 feet wide
inside. The heating of the whole (that is, the three
measuring from the outside walls 36x100 feet) is done by
one of Hitching's Combination Boilers (C), heating about
1200 feet of 4-inch pipe (D). The glass roof (E) is
formed of portable sashes, each 6 feet by 3 feet ; each
alternate sash is screwed down, the others being movable,
so that a full supply of air can be given when necessary.

The movable sash is elevated by an iron bar 15 inches
long, attached to the sash by a staple ; in this bar three
holes are punched, at distances of 3 inches ; by means of
these holes the bar can be hooked upon an iron pin placed
in the ridge pole, and thus hold the sash more or less
open, to graduate the admission of air. When the sas}i
3

50

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

©

©

(9)

Fig. 12.— GREEN-HOUSE HEATED BY HOT WATER PIPES.

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 51

is shut clown, the bar is hooked on to a pin that secures it
ID place, so that the sash cannot be moved by wind. I
am particular to describe this method of airing, as it is, as
far as our experience has gone, the best method we have
ever seen used. The ridge-poles are cut out exactly as is
shown at J, and the sash lays on the shoulder, braced by
the angle shown in the cut. The interior arrangements
are shown by the end section. G shows the bench, or
table, as it is completed. The space beneath the bench,
if bottom heat is required for propagating or other pur-
poses, should be boarded up below the bottom of the
pipes, the lower board being hinged, so that, in cold nights,
additional heat can be given to the atmosphere of the
house, if required. But for the general uses of growing
plants, the benches must be left open below, so that the
heat given out by the pipes will pass freely to all parts of
the house. If one house is wanted at a higher tempera-
ture than the others, it will be necessary to board up
along the posts from the ground to the top of the posts,
and by wholly or partially shutting the valves in the pipes
of the other houses, throw a greater heat into the one in
which the high temperature is wanted. The walks
through the house (K) are 2 feet wide, which leaves 4-J feet
on each side for bench room. These widths we find to
be the most convenient for the working of the plants ;
if narrower, too much space would be lost ; if wider, the
further side of tho benches could not be reached easily.

The width of walk, however, must be determined by
what the green-houses are designed for : if for workmen
merely, 2 feet, or even less room, will do for the walk ;
but if visitors are to be accommodated, it should be at
least 2J feet in width.

A brick shed (A) covers the boiler pit (F), and is
attached to the north end of the pits, the back wall
being about 12 feet high, the front 8 feet, width 16 feet ;
besides breaking off the north wind from the green-houses,

PRACTICAL FLOKICULTURE.

F^

&

•n
n
n

Fig. 13.— GltEEN-pOUSE HEATED BY FLUES.

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 53

we find this shed indispensable as a potting and packing
shed. It will be understood that these green-houses have
their ends north and south ; consequently one side is ex-
posed to the east in the morning, the other to the west
in the afternoon, while at noonday the rays of the sun
strike directly upon the apex of the roof. There is nothing
arbitrary in having the green-houses end north and south ;
a point to the east or west would not make any material
difference, but, if circumstances will admit, we prefer them
to end direct north and south.

At present prices, built in a plain, substantial manner,
with the outer walls of brick or stone, and heated with
hot water, they will cost about $10 per running foot, or
$3,000 for the three connected ; if put up singly, the cost
would be at least 10 per cent more.

The smoke flues, as shown in figure 13, can be put up
at much less cost — perhaps $6 per running foot, in most
places ; but when the heating is done by smoke-flues, the
houses should not be, on an average, longer than 50 feet,
varying, of course, with the locality ; where the ther-
mometer falls 10 or 15 degrees below zero, not more than
40 feet should be risked; while where the thermometer
marks its lowest point at the same figures above zero, the
houses may be extended to 70 feet.

It will be seen by this sketch that two fires only are used
for the three green-houses ; the flues from each, passing
under the benches on the outside houses, are carried along
the end and returned through the middle house.

This equalizes the temperature in all three, for, although
the outside houses get only one run of flues each, these be-
ing nearest to the furnace give out just about the same
amount of heat to the outside houses as the two returning
flues give out in the middle one, as these, being at a greater
distance from the fire, contain much less heat. This style
of ridge and furrow building of green-houses is especially
adapted for florists; hundreds of establishments have

54

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

•==tt

Fig. 14.— PLAN OP HOUSE HEATED BY BOTH FLUE AND PIPES.

GKEEX-HOUSE STRUCTURES.

55

been erected on this plan in all parts of the country, and
I have been amply repaid by receiving scores of letters of
acknowledgment from those who have adopted it, and
whose attention was first called to the plan by some of
the papers written by me on the subject four years ago.

Another plan in use is shown by figure 14, combining
the flue and boiler, from the same furnace. This is the
most economical plan in which hot water can be used.
As shown in the engraving, there are two houses joined
together, each 11 feet wide by 70 feet in length. For

Fig. 15. — END VIEW OP FIGURE 14.

colder sections of the country than the vicinity of New
York, from 50 to 60 feet in length would probably be suf-
ficient, but much depends on exposure, and the manner in
which the building is constructed. One of the houses is
heated by the flue, F; the other by the pipes, P. The
boiler, #,• shown in the end view of the same house,
figure 15, is what is termed a " saddle " boiler, which an-
swers at the same time the double purpose of an arch for
the furnace and a boiler. The fire in this furnace does
nearly the same amount of heating as two such fires, if
used in heating by flues only. Thus, by this combination
of flue and pipes, the construction of the heating arrange-
ments costs about 50 per cent less than if the house were
heated entirely by hot water. The probable cost of two

56

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

houses of tliis kind, each 70x11 feet, so heated, and otherwise
complete, would be about $1200. In erecting all houses on
the ridge and furrow plan, the site should, whenever prac-
ticable, be such as will admit of extension by future erec-
tions, to meet the increase of business. A good plan in
beginning is to erect three houses, as shown in fig. 13,

Fig. 16.— END VIEW OF FORCING HOUSE.

page 54, 50 feet in length, so situated, that as business in-
creases, and with more means in hand, the south ends can
be taken out, the walls extended 25 or 50 feet further, the
flues thrown out, and the heating done by hot water. For,
whenever it can be afforded, the heating by hot water
will be found to be much the best ; not that there is any
particular saving in fuel over heating by flues, for in this
matter there is but little to choose, but it is more durable,
entirely free from danger from fire, or the escaping of

GKBEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 57

gases, so troublesome with flues ; besides, it is an immense
saving of labor, more particularly if the green-houses are
extensive. In our establishment, covering over an acre
with glass, but nine boilers are used, involving the work
of only nine fires. If we heated by flues, not less than
forty fires would be necessary, and at least three times
more labor would be required.

Fig. 16 is the end view and fig. 17 the ground plan of a
Hot-house, or Forcing House, erected by us last season,
mainly for the purpose of forcing flowers in winter. This
house has given us the highest satisfaction, and for the pur-
pose of a conservatory for winter blooming plants, we be-
lieve it will be found to be most suitable. So satisfied were
we of the practicability of this style of house for this pur-
pose, that we erected it of mammoth proportions, 300 feet
in length by 20 wide inside. It will be understood by the
sketch, that the roof is stationary, the whole slope front-
ing south, 15 feet in length, being one unbroken sheet of
glass. The back slope to the north, 8 feet in length, is
also fixed, but in that there are movable sashes 3 feet
square every 9 feet, for the purpose of ventilation, or about
one-sixth of the whole roof facing north. The movable
sashes are hinged at the top, and are lifted by an iron
bar fixed to the lower edge, in which holes are punched
every 4 inches, so that the ventilation may be graduated
to suit the weather. This amount of space for ventilation
on the roof would be entirely inadequate alone, and it is
one of the most common errors in building fixed roof
green-houses or graperies, to have insufficient means for
the escape of the excessive heat generated by the sun's
rays in May or June.

But this difficulty is easily and cheaply overcome by
admitting air from sliding shutters made in the front wall.
The size and width apart of these must depend upon the
dimensions of the green-house. In the house above re-
ferred to, we have them made 18x24 inches, placed in the
3*

58

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

o

Fig. 17.— GROUND PLAN OF FORCING HOUSE.

GREEN-HOUSE STRUCTURES. 59

front wall 9 feet apart. The proper position of these
sliding shutters is of importance. It has long been a
common practice to ventilate by front sashes, both in
graperies and plant houses which opened directly on the
plants. The consequence is, that in cold days, while the
sun is shining, the house gets heated up, but the lower
sashes cannot be opened, for the outside air is often so
cold that it would be likely to chill or freeze the plants.
But by placing the sliding ventilators on the front or
south wall, at such a height that they will be below the
front bench, but above the flue or pipes, the air thus ad-
mitted to cool down the house is modified in its passage
across the pipes or flue, so that the temperature of the
house is lowered without chilling the plants.

The sliding ventilators run upon rollers, and by at-
taching a continuous rod to each, 25 or 30 of them can be
moved from one end by a slight
pull, thus obviating the necessity
of getting under the benches to
open each one separately. The
front or south wall of the building
referred to is built of brick-work 8
inches thick. But the back or
north wall is built hollow, 10 Fig. 18.— HOLLOW BRICK
inches thick; that is, of two WALL.

bricks placed flat, with an air space of 2 inches, " tied in "
by headers of cast-iron, like that shown in figure 18, placed
at intervals of 2 feet apart, both in the height and in the
length of the wall. A 10-inch hollow wall built in this
way costs about the same as a 12-inch solid wall, but is
greatly better in all respects. The air space, of course,
acting as a non-conductor, keeps the house much warmer
than a solid Avail would ; and besides, a wall like this is
much more durable for such a purpose. The experience
of most of us who have built solid 8-inch brick walls for
green-houses is, that on the north or west side they stand

60

PEACTICAL FLOKICULTUIIE.

badly, owing to the freezing and thawing caused by the
great difference between the temperature of the green-house
and that of the open air in winter. The difficulty experi-
enced in this way has forced us to the conclusion that it is
better to construct the walls of posts and boards, lining
with brick inside, rather than to use the ordinary solid 8-
inch brick wall ; but the best wall for a north or western
exposure, when the expense can be afforded, is unquestion-
ably the 10-inch hollow wall.

Figure 19 will show the inside arrangement of the
benches, each being exactly 4 feet in width, with a 2-foot
space for walks. It will be observed that the back walk is

Fig. 19. — LtfTERIOU OF FORCING IIOUSE.

elevated, so that the plants on the benches can be conven-
iently reached, to arrange plants, water, etc. If for private
use, or for visitors, the walks should be widened at least
6 inches. The water is supplied by tanks under the mid-
dle bench, 8 feet wide by 4 deep, and half as long as
the house. These are arranged in sections, and at con-
venient distances are placed two of West's Force Pumps,
Fig. 11, to which a length of 125 feet of 1^-inch hose is
attached. One man or two boys work the pump, while
another hand regulates the water over the plants by the
sprinkler, so that the plants contained in this building,

MODES OF HEATING. 61

measuring about 7,000 square feet of glass, are copiously
drenched with water in one hour. If watered in the usual
way by watering-pots, the same number of hands would
not do the work as well in six hours.

Of all labor-saving apparatuses yet introduced into our
gardens, this force pump is the most valued.

As a green-house of this description is built for the pur-
pose of growing winter flowers, ample provision is made
for heating ; eight 4-inch pipes run its entire length, which
is about one square foot of heating surface to three square
feet of glass, or, in other words, one foot of 4-inch pipe to
three square feet of glass. This is the necessary quantity
when a night temperatare of 60 degrees is required in sec-
tions where the thermometer runs down to 10° or 15° be-
low zero. "When a temperature of 40° or 45° only is
necessary at night, one foot of heating surface to four feet
of glass is the rule. But, of course, much depends on ex-
posure, style of green-house, etc., so that no infallible
rule can be applied.

CHAPTER XI

MODES OF HEATIN G.

Although I have incidentally alluded to the different
modes of heating in some other parts of the work, the
matter is one of so much importance, and one in deciding
about which the beginner is so often puzzled, that I will
again briefly refer to it a little more directly.

The horizontal smoke flue is, we presume, the original
mode of heating green-houses, and where but one build-
ing is erected, with not more than 1,000 square feet of
glass surface, or where the beginner is limited in means, it

62 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

may be used to a very good purpose. Any mason will be
able to build a smoke flue, by having the following instruc-
tions. Let the bars of the grate be from 20 to 30 inches in
length, making a width of grate from 10 to 15 inches, accord-
ing to the size of the house to be heated ; say the smallest
size for a surface of glass of 300 feet, the latter for 600.
Where the furnace pit can be drained, if there is danger
of water standing in winter, it is always best to place the
furnace so deep that the furnace bars will be say 3 feet
from the top of the flue where it first starts along the
house ; at all events, the bars should never be less than one
foot below the bottom of the flue. After setting the grate
bars in the usual way, by resting them on an iron plate let
into the brick-work at front and back, the sides of the fur-
nace should be built with fire brick and fire clay, (if at all
procurable), to the height of 10 or 15 inches, according to
size. From that point an arch is turned over to cover the
furnace, the "neck " of the furnace rising at a sharp angle
for about 2 feet, until it runs into the flue. The flue should
be raised from the ground by means of bricks, either one
upon edge or two laid flatwise. This costs perhaps one-third
more in building, but it exposes a greater heating surface,
besides keeping the flue always dry, and permitting it to
" draw " better at all times. The cheapestand simplest form
of flue is made as follows : After the bottom is formed, the
flue is built up by placing two bricks on edge, the top being
covered by a brick laid flat. This may be varied, how-
ever, for larger houses, by placing 3 bricks on edge and
covering by tiles. The larger the furnace, of course the
greater the necessity for a larger flue. A flue had better
never exceed 120 feet in length, and this length should be
secured by running the flue along one side of the house,
crossing the end, and returning along the other side to
the place of beginning, where it connects with the chim-
ney. If the flue can have a gradual rise of 1 J or 2 feet in
its entire length, so much the better. Whenever it is made

MODES OP HEATING. 63

to return, a greater amount of heat will be got from the
same quantity of coal, than if it merely ran straight along
one side, and turned round the end to connect with the
chimney.

Too great caution cannot be used in keeping wood-
work away from the flue and chimney, at the furnace
end ; and for 15 feet of the hot end of the flue, wood
should never be placed nearer than one foot. Do not
listen to what your builders may say, as few of them have
had experience in such matters, and whatever they may
pretend, not one in a dozen knows any thing more
about what is dangerous from fire than you do your-
self. On one occasion I had in use two houses heated
with flues each about 100 feet in length. The chimneys
had been made of wood, and they had been safely used for
three winters, but on the occasion of a severe storm in
winter, when our fires were going at full blast, both of
them took fire within an hour of each other, though fully
100 feet from the furnace. Fortunately the chimneys had
been attached to the outside of the house, and were
knocked off without material injury being done. On
another occasion, a house containing upwards of 10,000
plants took fire by a workman placing kindling wood on
the flue near the furnace. The result was great injury to
the green-house, and total destruction of its contents. I
mention these cases, to show the necessity of the utmost
caution. Every winter there are hundreds of fires origin-
ating in green-houses by the woodwork taking fire from
flues.

In this particular, if in no other, the heating of green-
houses by hot water has an immense advantage over flues,
for with this there is danger neither from fire, smoke, nor
the gases that often escape from badly built flues. Still,
in some particulars I do not believe in the advantages
claimed for hot water heating by its advocates. I have
never yet seen a boiler able to heat a given surface of glass

64 PRACTICAL FLOEICULTUEE.

with less fuel than would be used by flues. Nor is the
heat given out by iron pipes, filled with heated water, any
less dry than that given out by a flue which has been heat-
ed to the same temperature as the water. The advantage
in favor of the water is, however, that its temperature is
nearly the same at one end of a house as at the other, while
with the flue the furnace end may be heated to a tempera-
ture of 300°, but where it enters the chimney, it may not
be more than 100°; hence at the furnace end we get a dry
heat, simply for the reason that our heating medium (the
bricks) is unavoidably heated to too high a temperature,
and to counteract the dryness occasioned thereby, pans of
water should be placed upon the flue while firing hard.

The saddle boiler is the simplest form of boiler, and may
be used in connection with a flue, as shown in figure 15,
on page 55.

The great point to be aimed at in the construction of
a boiler, is to get the greatest amount of heating surface,
directly exposed to and near to a given grate surface.
Scores of boilers are in use, all claimed by their respect-
ive makers to be nearest to this condition, yet many of
them are comparatively worthless, as our experience has
rather expensively taught us, as we have thrown out two
of them as useless, at great trouble and expense. Without
desiring to show a preference to any particular maker, we
can only say that an investigation of the subject has led
us to use, as the most effective, one of recent introduction,
known as "Hitching's Corrugated," figure 20. We have
now two of them in use, which together heat 2,500 feet of
4-inch pipe, and heat a glass surface of 7,000 square feet,
to 60 degrees in the coldest weather. It will be seen by
the engraving that the portion exposed to the fire is rib-
bed or corrugated, so as to expose a larger surface than
if plain. This part of the boiler differs but little from the
ordinary saddle boiler, but, as the figure shows, the heat
passes around and over the boiler to a smoke pipe in

MODES OF HEATING.

65

A.— Elevation of BoUer.

.— Longitudinal Section of Boiler.
Fig. 20.— HITCHINGS & CO.'S PATENT BOILER.

66 PRACTICAL FLOKICQLTUEE.

front. This heat, after it leaves the direct action of the
fire, when passing again to the front of the boiler, is called
" secondary," and though its power is comparatively
slight compared with the direct heat from the fuel to the*
inner surface, yet it otherwise indirectly benefits, by check-
ing the rapid escape of heat out at the chimney, which
would be the case to a great extent if this back draft was
not used. We believe that by using this second heating
surface, a saving of one-third in fuel is made. At present
prices, a boiler and pipes to heat 1,000 square feet of glass
by hot water will cost in this district about $500. Brick
flues, to heat the same area, would cost about $100.

Heating by tanks of hot water was much in use a few
years ago, when the grape vine fever was at its height,
and is still used by some for propagating purposes ;
but our experience, as well as that of many others who
have had them in extensive use, is that they are an un-
profitable means of heating. Made in the usual way, of
wood, we have never known them to-be in use over two
winters without seriously leaking. If made by lining
with zinc, or by having them made of cast-iron, they then
cost as much as the regular 4-inch pipe, and are not so
durable, and for the heating for any purpose they have no
advantage in any respect over the pipes. Last year I
threw out over 2,000 square feet of wooden tanking, that
had leaked so as to become unserviceable in three years,
and replaced it by 4-inch pipe. Almost all who have used
them have had the same experience.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 67

CHAPTER XIL

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS.

The propagation of plants, of all kinds, by seeds, is a
matter in which instructions can only to a certain extent
be given. Long experience only can give the necessary
knowledge for the full understanding of the proper
temperature and humidity essential for the successful germ-
ination of the different varieties. It may be laid down
as a safe rule, however, that for the hardier varieties, a
low or medium temperature is required, say from 45° to
60°, and for the tender species, a temperature from 75° to
90°.

If Pansy seed be sown in July or August, where the
temperature in the shade averages 80°, no matter how
moist the soil is kept, if germination takes place at all it
will be of so feeble a kind that the seedlings will not
continue a healthy existence ; but if the same seed were
sown in September or October, with an average tempera-
ture of say 60° in the shade, a quick and healthy germina-
tion would be the result. The same rule applies to Cine-
rarias, Calceolarias, Auriculas, Primulas, and all other
plants of this half-hardy nature. English, Scotch, and
Irish gardeners, before they have had time for experience
in this country, are apt to fall into the common error of
sowing all these seeds too soon. Though it is proper to
sow these seeds in July and August in England, with us,
in this section, it must be delayed to September or Octo-
ber, and in warm latitudes still later, or failure is almost
certain to follow. On the other hand, if we attempt to
germinate Portulacas, Balsams, Amaranths, Zinnias, or
other plants of tropical origin, in the medium temperature
of 50°, they will either remain dormant until a higher
temperature occurs, or perish. Ignorance of, or inatten-

68 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUBE.

tion to, these conditions, is far oftener the cause of fail-
ure than want of vitality in seeds.

Whether seeds are sown in the open border, in the
window garden of the parlor, in the hot-bed, or green-
house, the same conditions should be followed, as far as
practicable. In the open border there is not always a
choice of soil, but if soil is to be prepared, let it be of a light
nature ; leaf mould from the woods, and well-pulverized
muck from the swamps are excellent to sift on as a cover-
ing ; or, where it is obtainable, the mould formed by
decayed refuse hops is of great value as a covering for
seeds. We have employed this exclusively as a covering
for seeds of all kinds for many years, with results which
have been vastly superior to those we had when we did
not use it.

It must be borne in mind that, at first, seeds do not
so much need a fertile soil as they do one having
the necessary mechanical condition ; this is found, ex-
actly, in the light, moisture-retaining nature of hop-
mould. We can give no better rule than the old one of
covering seeds to about their own depth with mould,
although something depends on i\\Q weight of the material
with which they are covered. One-fourth of an inch in
depth of hop-mould or leaf-mould would be no more thaji
equivalent to half that depth of ordinary loam ; hence the
advantage in using it, as it gives the seed a moist, springy
covering, through which the tiny germ can freely push.

We know it is a practice very common with amateurs,
and many gardeners, when starting seeds in hot-bed or
green-house, to use flower-pots in their operations ; they
are generally two-thirds filled with potsherds, overlaying
which is an inch or two of soil, and on this the seed is
sown. Any continuation of dry weather necessitates
almost daily watering of the flower-pots ; this bakes or
hardens the surface, while a day's inattention to them
dries the soil, while it is in this condition, so as to injure the

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 69

vitality of the seeds ; hence very unsatisfactory results
follow this practice too often.

For many years we have entirely discarded the use of
earthen flower-pots or pans for the purpose of sowing
seeds, and use shallow boxes instead. These we prepare
by cutting the common-sized soap-box in three pieces,
each one of a depth of about two inches. These boxes are
filled with the prepared soil to the depth of 1^ inch, which
is gently and evenly pressed, so as to give an entirely
level surface ; the seeds are then sown, and a light cover-
ing, from ' |16 to 1 14 part of an inch thick, according to size
or strength of seed, is sifted over them, through a sieve
having a mesh only *[,„ part of an inch in diameter. The
covering is gently pressed, to prevent the air penetrating
the loose soil and drying up the seeds ; watering, which it
is well to avoid as much as possible, is thus rendered less
necessary. Be careful, however, not to let them suffer for
moisture, as in the weak condition of seedlings, most plants
are quickly injured by neglect of this kind, and, even with
all possible care, we experience serious losses. Many varie-
ties will " damp off," as we term it, just as the first rough
leaves are being formed ; this, however, is not the result of
excessive moisture, as it occurs just as quickly in a dry tem-
perature as a moist one. It is evidently caused by the same
insidious spider-web-like substance that is known among
gardeners as the " fungus of the cutting bench," and is
evidently one of the minute fungi of which we have so
many representatives. The best preventive of this dis-
ease, as it is sometimes called, is, just as soon as the seed-
ling plants can be handled, to take them from the seed-
boxes, and prick them out in boxes of similar mould, from J
to 2 inches apart, according to the variety. This is a much
better method than potting them off in flower-pots, as it
not only saves time and room, but they always do better.
In the flower-pots they are liable to be dried up, and
the tender roots of the seedling plant thereby quickly

70 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

destroyed. We use these shallow boxes largely for prick-
ing off cuttings from our propagating benches, instead of
potting them off, particularly such plants as are wanted
for stock, to be planted out in the open ground, as, after
being rooted in the cutting bench, and planted out in
these shallow boxes, they can there remain, occupying
less space, and in every respect growing as well as if in
pots. Carnations and Roses we work largely in this way.

CHAPTER XIII.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS.

Of all the operations of the florist, the one above all
others in importance is the propagation of plants by cut-
tings. It is the fount from which the supply must come,
and becomes inexhaustible in the hands of a careful
operator. I say a careful operator, rather than a skillful
one, for, in ray estimation, a great amount of knowledge
is not so necessary to success as that a never-flagging,
careful application of that knowledge should be made.
A careful man, who has had the run of a propagating
establishment for one year, and who has kept his eyes and
ears open, will have acquired a theoretical and practical
knowledge of the business sufficient to enable him to
operate with success, provided he is of fair intelligence
and studious habits. On the other hand, we find hundreds
who have spent the best part of their lives in the trade,
whose careless character renders useless the knowledge
possessed, when this branch of horticulture is placed in
their charge.

I have long held the opinion that the necessary knowl-
edge to successfully propagate plants by cuttings is very

PKOPAGATIOX OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 71

simple, and may easily be imparted by writing, even to
one having no acquaintance whatever with the operation.
I will first state the system practised by commercial florists,
following with that suited for amateurs or private gar-
deners.

When the operations are such as require a house set.
apart exclusively for propagating, the best style, in our
opinion, is that shown by the diagram on page 50.

We have used this style for the past three years, and,
thus far, cannot see how it can be further improved upon ;
it works perfectly, and if the simple conditions which we
lay down for our guidance are strictly followed, failure is
an impossibility. It will bo seen by the diagram that
the heating is done by hot water pipes, two of which
(4 inches in diameter) run under each bench ; but it must
not be supposed that it is indispensable that the heating
of a propagating house should be done with hot water, to
insure success. The common smoke-flue, run under the
bench in the same position as shown for the pipes, will
give bottom heat, if carefully regulated, just as well as
the hot water pipes ; only in all cases where the first cost
is not an object, we advise heating by hot water in pref-
erence to flues. The bottom of the bench is best formed
of slate or thin flagging-stone, as they are better con-
ductors of heat than wood. When it is not convenient
to obtain these, common rough boarding will answer.
The scale applied to the diagram will give the measure-
ments.

( We are in the habit" of placing 3 or 4 inches of well-
rotted refuse hops, tan bark, or some such material, well
beaten down, over the boarding or flagging ; over this
we place about 2 inches of sand. Our reason for using
the first-named materials, passing the heat through them
before it reaches the sand in which the cuttings are placed
is, that it becomes modified and approaches to the moist
and genial heat of the hot-bed. This practice is by no

72 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

means indispensable to adopt, as sand alone, placed on the
boards or flagging, to the depth of 3 inches, will answer
the purpose very well ; but when the materials can be
procured conveniently, we believe it to be preferable.
Some gardeners give preference to particular colors or
textures of sand, but I think that these have little or
nothing to do with the rooting of cuttings. In our ex-
periments, we have tried sands of all colors and of nearly
all textures, together with charcoal-dust, brick-dust, cocoa-
nut fibre, rotted refuse hops, and many other materials ;
cuttings root in all in nearly the same time and with the
same success, satisfying us, beyond all doubt, that the
material in which the cutting is placed acts merely as a
medium to hold the moisture. We use sand because it is
a clean and convenient material to work with, and is
generally easily attainable. In my earlier experience, I
was a victim to the popular notion that it was necessary
to use silver sand in the propagation of particular plants,
and was for years at much trouble and expense to obtain
it. But this even did not save us; we were in those
days working at hap-hazard, failing quite as often as suc-
ceeding, until further experience taught us what were the
causes of failure and the conditions of success.

With exceptions so few, and those of so little import-
ance that it is hardly worth while to allude to them, cut-
tings of all kinds root freely from slips taken from the
young wood — that is, the succulent or unripened growth
that a plant has made. The proper condition of the slip
at the time that it is inserted in the sand of the cutting-
bench is of great importance, — a condition which it is
astonishing to believe is so little understood among gar-
deners. Somehow the idea has become current that every
cutting must be made by cutting just below a joint or
just at one. The practice of this system leads undoubt-
edly to many cases of failure ; not that the mere cutting at
or below a joint either assists or hinders the forma-

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 73

tion of roots, but from the fact that when a slip is
cut at a joint the shoot has often become too hard at
that point, while half an inch higher np, or above the
joint, the proper condition would be found. The safest
rule for the novice to adopt in propagating all kinds of

Fig. 21.— PROPER AND IMPROPER CONDITIONS OF CUTTING.

soft- wooded plants is to bend the cutting on the shoot ;
if it breaks or snaps, as in the upper part of figure 21, it
is in the right condition, but if it can be bent without
snapping, as shown in the lower part of the same figure,
it is then too hard. We know it will root even in this
hard condition, but it will root more slowly, and the roots
emitted will be hard and slender, and, ns a consequence,
will not be likely to produce a plant of the same vigor as
4

74 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

that made from one in the proper state. In propagating
woody plants, such as Roses, Azaleas, Daphnes, etc., this
test of breaking or snapping does not apply, although all
these will root, if taken in the same way ; yet we find it
enfeebles their growth more than if the cutting is allowed
to get harder. What this degree of hardness is, it is
difficult to describe ; in Roses it assumes the proper de-
gree of hardness when the shoot develops the flower.-bud.
But, although we do not take Rose cuttings in the same
succulent condition as we would a Fuchsia or a Verbena,

it must not be imagined
that it is necessary to
make the cutting at a
joint. The doing away
with this custom in
propagating Roses en-
ables us to increase the
product of a plant at
least twice as much as
if we practised under
this dogma, for the cut-
ting will root just as
well, and become quite
as good a plant, if made
with a single eye, (figure

Fig. 22.— ROSE WITH SINGLE EYE. ^ \ \f f ' ' t

having two or three eyes, (figure 23). Although we have
said that cuttings can be as easily rooted without being cut
at a joint as otherwise, yet there are, in some plants, other
considerations that necessitate that they should never be
cut except at a joint ; for example, a Dahlia cutting will
root quite as freely, make as fine a flowering plant
in fall, and the tuberous root increase to its full size ;
but it will not be able to start again in spring, because
the Dahlia pushes only from the crown of the root, and if
the crown has not been formed from a cutting cut close

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS.

75

below a joint, as in figure 24, it is worthless, as the tubers
and crown formed without an eye possess no latent or
dormant buds ; hence the importance of always making
Dahlia cuttings by cutting immediately below an eye, if
the roots are wanted for future use.

In cases where it is desired to make the most of new
plants, we sometimes
split the cuttings, as
shown in figure 25.
This method, however,
is not generally desir-
able, and we question
if, except in cases of
Calceolarias, and a few
other plants of like
character, it is ever
worthy of practice.

If a plant is perpet-
uated by cuttings with
difficulty, we usually
find it is freely increas-
ed in some other way ;
thus the Cyclamen,
Myrsiphylium, some
varieties of Cleroden-
dron, etc., are slow to
increase by division or cut! ings, but are abundantly multi-
plied by seeds. Again, the Bouvardias, Anemone Japoni-
ca, Pyrus Japonica, Calycanthus, etc., are slowly increased
by cuttings or shoots, while by cuttings of the roots they
are propagated with the greatest ease and rapidity.

The roots of such plants are thickly studded with latent,
or, as they are termed, adventitious buds. These are cut
into pieces of half an inch or so in length, as in figure 26,
strewn thickly on the propagating bench, and covered
over with an eighth of an inch of sand? mixctf with some

Ficr. 23. — ROSK WITH SEVERAL EYES.

76

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

light material, such as finely sifted rotten refuse hops or
leaf mould. These are treated exactly in the way of cut-
tings of the shoots, except that there is no necessity ever
to shade root cuttings; water should be sparingly given
until they have freely started through their covering.
One of the most important plants to propagate by root
cuttings is the Bouvar-
dia, and it requires to
be placed in a high
temperature. It is bet-
ter not to put the roots
in to. start before the
season is sufficiently
advanced to keep the
temperature steadily
high, say about the
15th of March, or 1st of
April. The Bouvardia
is also increased by
cuttings of the young
shoots, but it requires
more care, the plants
so made are not so fine,
and the ease and cer-
tainty with which they Fi£- 2*. -DAHLIA CUTTING.
make good plants by cutting up the roots render any
other mode useless.

I have said that if the simple conditions that we lay
down for our guidance in the propagation of plants are
strictly followed, failure is an impossibility. These con-
ditions, together with the state of the cutting, are tempera-
ture and moisture. It is very easy to give a rule for these,
yet it requires unremitting attention to keep to that rule
through all the deviations of the seasons, and it is utterly
impossible to follow it, whenever the outside temperature
exceeds the limit given. Hence we find that the propa-

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 77

gation of most plants in this section of the country is at-
tended with great difficulty, and with but little success in
the months of June, July and August, and for this reason
some of the best European propagators fail, when attempt-

ing the operation here in
July, with the thermom-
eter in the shade at
90°, while in London
success may attend these
efforts at the same date ;
but then the thermome-
ter there only marks
70°. This twenty de-
grees just makes the
difference. I have dwelt
thus long on the subject
of temperature, to fix in
the mind of the reader
what I believe to be of
great importance, and to
prepare him to under-
stand, if failure occurs,
where to place the cause,
for without much doubt
every case of failure is
traceable either to the
unsuitable condition of
the cutting, irregular-
Fig. 25,-spLiT CUTTING. ty of moisture, or tem-
perature.

Tiie most proper condition of temperature, to root cut-
tings of the great majority of green-house and bedding
plants, is 65 degrees of bottom heat, indicated by a ther-
mometer plunged in the sand of the bench, and an atmos-
pheric temperature of 15 degrees less. A range of 10 de-
grees may be allowed, that is, 5° lower, or 5° higher, but

78

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

the nearer the heat of the sand can be kept to 65°, and
that of the rest of the house to 50°, the more perfect the
success will be.

From the time the cuttings are inserted in the sand un-
til they are rooted, they should never be allowed to get
dry; in fact, our practice is to keep the sand soaked with

water, the cutting bench
being watered copiously
every morning, and often,
when the atmosphere is
dry, again in the evening.
Kept thus saturated, there
is less chance of the cutting
getting wilted, either by
heat from the sun's rays,
or from fire heat ; for be it
remembered that if a cut-
ting once gets wilted, its
juices are expended, and
it becomes in the condition
of a hard cutting, in the
condition in which, when
bent, it will not snap nor
break, which we have shown
to be the proper state at
Fig. 26.— ROOT CUTTING. figure 21. To avoid this

wilting or flagging of the cutting, every means that will
suggest itself to the propagator is to be used. Our prac-
tice is to shade and give air in the propagating house just
as soon in the forenoon as the action of the sun's rays on the
glass raises the temperature of the house to 65° or 70°.
This practice of giving air in a propagating house is, I
am aware, not in very common use; many contending
that the house should at all times be kept close. We
have tried both methods long enough and extensively
enough to satisfy us beyond all question, that ventilating

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 79

and propagating at a low temperature is capable of
producing a larger quantity of stock during the season than
at a high temperature and in a close atmosphere. There
need be no failures, and it has the important advantage
of producing a healthy stock, which the close or high
temperature system would fail to do in the case of many
plants. "We have often heard propagators vauntingly tell
of taking out two crops of cuttings in 10 days. We are
well aware that this may be done, but we are also aware
that it is often done in damp and cloudy weather at the
risk of the whole crop, and it must be done at a high
temperature, which, at all times, causes the plants to draw
up slender, and thus impairs their vigor.

I am of the opinion that permitting a moderate circula-
tion of air in the propagating house tends to prevent the
germination of that peculiar spider-web-like substance,
which, for want of a better term, is known among garden-
ers as the " fungus of the catting bench." Every one
who has had any experience in propagating knows the
baneful effects of this ; how that, in one night, it will often
sweep off thousands of cuttings that a few hours before
were in healthful vigor. But this insidious enemy of the
propagator requires, like vegetation of higher grades, con-
ditions suitable to its development, which evidently are
a calm atmosphere and a temperature above 55 or 60 de-
grees. Hence, to avoid this pest, we make every effort by
shading, airing, and regulation of fire heat, to keep the at-
mosphere of the house so that it shall not exceed 60°.
This, of course, is not practicable when the outside tem-
perature in the shade is above 60°, but the tempera-
ture can be reduced considerably by dashing water on
the pathways and other parts of the house. It is rarely,
however, that the outside temperature ever exceeds 60
degrees for any length of time in this district before the
middle of May, and all propagating should be finished
previous to that time, unless of tropical plants, or plants

80 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

that will stand and require a hot-house temperature in
their growth, such as Poinsettias, Bouvardias, Coleus, Cler-
odendrons, etc. These propagate more freely in a tem-
perature 20 degrees higher than that laid down for general
guidance.

The shading of the glass, to prevent the temperature
from, rising in the house, is done in various ways, some
using canvas, or bast-matting, or painting the glass with
lime or whitewash. We find the cheapest and most con-
venient shading to be that formed by screens made of
common lath nailed an inch apart to a frame the size of
the sash, (3x6). This gives an ever-varying, modified
shade, suih'ciently cooling to the house, yet not darkening
the cutting enough to impair its vigor. These are not
put on in the morning until the temperature inside indi-
cates it to be necessary, and are taken off in the after-
noon as soon as the sun ceases to shine on the glass, for it
is of the utmost importance that the cuttings receive as
much light as they will bear without becoming wilted.
Cuttings rooted in too much shade, and at a high temper-
ature, are drawn up spindling, and take months to recover
from the injury done by this injudicious treatment. The
time required by cuttings to root varies from 5 to 20 days,
according to the variety, condition of the cutting, and
temperature. Verbenas, Fuchsias, or Heliotropes, put in in
proper condition, and kept without ever being allowed to
wilt, will root in an average bottom heat of 65°, in 8 days,
while Roses, Pelargoniums, or Petunias, will take at least
double that time under the same conditions.

Another point of importance, and one too often neglect-
ed, is to pot off the cuttings at once when rooted, no mat-
ter how small the roots may be ; half an inch is a much
better length for them to be when potted than two inches,
and the operation is much more quickly performed when
the roots are short than when long. But the main evils
of delaying the potting off of cuttings are, that when

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 81

left too long the cuttings grow up weak for want of room,
the roots, which become hard and woody, do not strike
freely into the soil, greater care is required in shading and
watering after potting, and the plant usually loses its
lower leaves, weakening its vitality, and subjecting it to
a greater chance of disease. With but few exceptions,
cuttings should never be potted into pots exceeding 2^
inches in diameter ; the infant plant in its transition state
has as yet but limited vitality, and should not be gorged
with food. The soil used should be sifted fine, through a
sieve with meshes something less than J of an inch in diam-
eter ; thus fine, it is more congenial to the roots, delicate
as yet, and besides, it is more easily and quickly used in the
operation of potting. After potting they should be set on
a bench covered with an inch or two of sand, and freely
watered with a fine rose watering-pot, and for two or
three days treated -exactly, in shading and watering, as if
they were yet in the propagating bed. If at this stage
they are allowed to wilt from drying, or excess of heat,
feeble and sickly plants will be the result.

The preceding method is that in use in most of the large
florists' establishments in the vicinity of New York, and
is applicable wherever there are regular propagating
and plant houses ; but as there are hundreds of amateur
florists having, perhaps, only one green-house, and thou-
sands who have no green-house at all, who would gladly
know how to increase their plants, to these we can detail
a simple method, yet one equally effective and safe. This
method has already been described by me in several of
our horticultural periodicals, and I can now offer nothing
new on the subject. It is called the

"SAUCER SYSTEM" OF PROPAGATING,

because saucers or plates are used to hold the sand in
which the cuttings are placed. This sand is put in to the
depth of an inch or so, and the cuttings inserted in it close
4*

82 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

enough to touch each other ; the sand is then watered un-
til it becomes in the condition of mud, and placed on the
shelf of the green-house, or in the window-sill of the sit-
ting-room or parlor, fully exposed to the sun, and never
shaded. But one condition is essential to success, — until
the cuttings become rooted the sand must be "kept con-
tinually saturated, and kept in the condition of mud ; if
once allowed to dry up, exposed to the sun as they are,
the cuttings will quickly wilt, and the whole operation
will be defeated. The rules previously laid down for
the proper condition of the cuttings are the same in this
case, and those for the temperature nearly so ; although, by
the saueer system, a higher temperature can be maintained
without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed in
water and will not droop at the same temperature as if
the sand was kept in the regular condition of moisture
maintained in the propagating bench. . Still the detached
slip, until rooted, will not endure a continuation of exces-
sive heat, so that we advise, as we do in the regular meth-
od of propagating, that the attempt should not be made
to root cuttings in this way, in this latitude, in the months
of June, July, or August, unless with plants of a tropical
nature. When the cuttings are rooted, they should be
potted in small pots, and treated carefully by shading and
watering for a few days, as previously directed.

CHAPTER XIV.

PROPAGATION OF LILIES.

The increasing interest taken in the Japan and other
Lilies renders their rapid increase a matter of much inter-
est, not only to the commercial florist, but to the amateur
cultivator, who may wish to increase his stock of some

PROPAGATION OF LILIES. 83

rare or valuable variety, and finds the ordinary mode too
slow. In most species they do not increase by division,
the usual method, more than at the rate of doubling an-
nually. There are two rapid modes of propagation, both
simple enough to be practised by any one, even without
the aid of green-house or frames, although in the mode to
which we will first allude, the aid of glass will save some
time in the operation. On examination of the bulb of any
of the lilies, it will be seen to be made up of a number of
scales, varying in number from twenty to nearly a hund-
red, according to the size of the bulb ; from five to twen-
ty of these may be broken off from the outer circle of
scales without injury to the bulb. Now
fit the base of each scale is a latent bud,
which under certain conditions develops
itself as a small bulb. The conditions
are simply to press the scale down up-
right in some light, sandy compost, so
that its upper part is level with, or a little
below the surface of the compost ; give
it then a slight watering, and in from one
to two months bulblets will be formed, as
shown in figure 27. The best way is to
use shallow boxes for the purpose, and be-
gin the operation about the first of Febru- Fjg. 27.— SCALE OP
ary. Keep the boxes in a temperature of LILY.

from 50° to 60°, either in the green-house or dwelling-
house, for there is no occasion for direct light, and the bulb-
lets will be formed so that the boxes may be set out in the
open garden in May. It is best to plunge the boxes in
the soil, undisturbed, level with the surface, so that they
will have greater uniformity of moisture. Treated thus,
the scales will make bulbs of the size of crocus by fall. It
is better not to disturb the bulbs in the fall, but merely
cover the boxes, on the approach of severe weather, with
three or four inches of rough litter or leaves, allowing

84

PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE.

them to remain thus covered until spring. In spring, if
too thick, they may be planted separately, and by fall of
the second year will make flowering bulbs.

There is another method of increasing the Lily, which
is simpler and equally expeditious. On lifting up in

the fall an old plant
that has bloomed, it will
be observed that the
large bulbs are formed
below the roots that are
thrown out from the
stem at the surface of the
ground ; after detaching
this mass of roots from
the bulb, an examination
will show that, imbed-
ded among the roots of
every plant, there are
from six to twelve small
bulbs, about the size of
hazel-nuts, as in figure
28, in which fewer bulbs
are shown than are usu-
ally produced. Allow
these to remain attached
to the roots, and plant
the whole closely packed
together in rows or
beds, as desirable, covering up on the approach of
winter, as directed for the scales. In spring, on remov-
ing the covering, the young bulbs will be starting
up with great vigor, some of them being of sufficient
strength to flower the first season, and by fall making
bulbs, nearly all of which will be of sufficient size to
flower. This method of increasing the Lily is practised
by our cultivators, but I am of the opinion that it cannot

Fig. ^3.— LILY BULB WITH BULBLETS.

PROPAGATION OF LILIES.

85

be in use in Europe, else there would be no necessity of
keeping the bulbs of the Japan Lilies at the rates they
have been held for the past ten years, as by this method
they can be as profitably grown as Tuberoses, Hyacinths,
or Tulips, and sold at the same rates.

The subjoined is a list of Lilies in the collection of an
amateur, P. Hanson, Esq., Brooklyn, L. I., who has, per-
haps, the largest collection possessed by any one in the
United States. The names of only the most striking vari-
eties are given, although the collection numbers over 150
sorts, if the sub-varieties are included.

auratum. Lilium lancifolium nanum.

splendidum.

u

" punctatum.

Brown ii.

(1

" roseum.

bulbiferum.

u

" rubrum.

" bativum.

u

longiflorum.

Buscbianum.

II

" foliis variegatis.

Camscbatcense.

II

" Lin-kin.

" Sarana.

II

Martagon.

Canadcnse.

II

" album.

rubrum.

II

" punctatum.

candidum.

II

" elegans.

" punctatum.

u

" purpureum.

u speciosum.

u

" " flore pleno.

" spicatum.

u

" " striatum.

Catcsboei.

if

" superbum.

Carniolicum.

((

monadelpnum.

Cbalcedonicum.

u

Neilgherieuse.

colcbicum (Szowitzianum).

II

Pen n sylvan i c um.

concolor.

((

pendulum.

cordifoliura.

u

peregrinum.

Coridion.

((

Philadelpbicum.

corruscans.

((

pompouium.

croceum.

((

pubescens.

auratiacam major.

II

pulchellum.

" minor.

(C

pumilum.

eximium verum.

M

puniceum.

formosum, Versch.

u

pyrenaicum.

fulgens atrosanguineum.

II

sinicum.

" incomparable.

II

spectabile.

giganteum.

M

staminosum.

lancifolium album.

(t

superbum.

" Melpomene. "

" Carolinianum.

86

PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Lilium supcrbum luteum.
u

M
(I

py ram i dale.
" rubrum.
" splendidum.

Sibiricum splendens.

Thompsonianum.

Thunbcrgianum.

" aureum.

" pictum.

" variegatum.
Loddigesianum.
latifolium.
pinifolium.
sanguineum.
venustum.
bicolor.
umbellatum.

" citrinum.

Lilium umbellatum crucntum.

u " Groom's Hybrid.

" " Henderson!!.

" u maculatum.

u u princes8 of "Wales

" " splendidum.

" " Thorburnii.

" tigrinum.

" " angustifolium.

" " erectum.

u " foliis variegatis.

" " fl. pleno.

" a Japonicum.

" " laciniatum.

" " prsecox.

" volubile.

" Wallichianurn.

" Thunbergianum cupreum,

CHAPTER XV.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

In the limited space that can be afforded to Roses in the
present work, the account must of necessity be condensed.
Those who wish fuller details are referred to works especial-
ly devoted to Rose culture. Amongst the writers on the
Rose, are Buist, Parsons, and Parkman, practical horti-
culturists, all of whom have treated the subject in a clear
and comprehensive manner. A botanical classification of
varieties would be useless for our present purpose, but we
will endeavor to make our readers comprehend the lead-
ing features of the Garden Classification of the Rose.
Roses may be classified under three general heads :

First. — Those that bloom only once in the season, em-
bracing the Hybrid China, Provence, Sweet and Austrian

CULTURE OP THE EOSE. 87

Briers, most of the Mosses, and all climbing varieties that
are hardy in the latitude of New York.

Second. — The Hybrid Perpetuals, or Remontants. This
class is of comparatively recent origin, and was obtained
by hybridizing the Provence and Damask varieties with
the Ever-blooming or China. They possess the rough foli-
age and spiny stems of the former, with, to some extent,
the intermittent blooming qualities of the latter. This is
by far the most interesting class of Roses, and embraces
many hundred varieties, ranging through all the interme-
diate shadings from purest white to darkest crimson.
They combine the hardy, robust habit of the Provence
with its unsurpassed odor, but unfortunately they do not
possess the ever-blooming qualities of the China. The term
"perpetual," therefore, is a complete misnomer, for un-
less the flowers are cut off as they develop, and the plant
kept growing freely, but little bloom is ever given, except
in the regular season of Rose flowering, (here in June),
and again to some extent in the fall. They, like the pre-
ceding class, are all hardy in the vicinity of New York.

Third. — The Monthly or Ever-blooming class, which is
clearly distinguished from both the preceding by its more
delicate and shining leaves and stems. It comprises at
least four sub-classes, namely, the Noisette, Tea, Bengal,
and Bourbon. The Noisettes are all of rampant growth,
usually flowering in clusters, and in the Southern States,
where they are uninjured by winter, are, perhaps, the
most valuable of all Roses ; a good type of this class is
seen in the Lamarque (white.) The Tea varieties are
characterized by slender growth, great delicacy of color-
ing, and the rich tea fragrance from which the class
derives its name. Safrano (orange yellow) may be
taken as a type of these. The Bengal class is not quite
so numerous or varied in color, but is now so inter,
mixed with the Bourbon and Tea, that it is difficult

88 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

to tell where to place many of its varieties ; a true type
of this class is the well-known Agrippinn, (crimson). The
Bourbon class is an extensive one, coming nearer to the
Hybrid Perpetual in its large and double flowers and
more rugged growth, and to the Bengal in the absence
of all yellow or orange shade of color in its flowers. An
old and unsurpassed type of this class is the well-known
Souvenir de la Malmaison, (blush).

All of this class are tender, and unless in situations partic-
ularly favored by a dry soil, and well sheltered, are either
killed outright, or cut down to the roots by the frosts
in winter almost everywhere in the Northern States.
Every now and then we hear of new varieties of this class,
which are represented to be hardy, but I would say to
amateur readers, and to gardeners whose experience in
such things has not been sufficient to guide them, that in
all such cases the vender either is ignorant of what he
says, or knows that his representations are false. There
is no more likelihood of our getting a Noisette, Tea, Ben-
gal, or Bourbon Rose to prove generally hardy in lati-
tudes where the thermometer runs down below zero, than
there is to have hardy Camellias or Chinese Azaleas. A
few years ago, a Western firm had the impudence to
get up a stock of the old Noisette Rose, Solfaterre, named
it " Augusta," and representing it as a " Yellow Ever-
blooming, hardy" variety, sold some thousands of it at $5
each. They seem to have sold their reputation at the
same time, however, for after perpetrating the swindle,
they were not afterwards heard of.

It is with hesitation that we give a list of a few varieties
of each class, as to name only one out of every score of
varieties seems to be unfair and invidious towards those
not given, which, perhaps, have claims surpassing those
we thus distinguish. But to describe the different colors
and characteristics of each class it becomes necessary.

CULTURE OF THE EOSE.

89

CLASS I.

(Embracing Provence (P.), Hybrid China (H. C.), and Damask (D.)

Color.

Dove color, shaded crimson.
Reddish crimson, extra fine.
Deep blush.
Deep pink, cut leaved.
Dark purple, very full.
Purple, speckled crimson.
White, finely cupped form.
Light pink, strong grower.
Bright deep rose.
Blush.

Deep crimson, very fine and full.
Crimson purple.
Velvet crimson.
Crimson, shaded violet.
Rose, spotted carmine.
Dark, purplish crimson.
Brilliant carmine.
Lilac, or dove color.
Pure white, free.
Dark, velvet crimson.
Brilliant scarlet crimson.
Rose, shaded crimson.
Pure white.
White, striped rose.
White, purple striped.
Semi-double, striped red and white.
Purplish crimson.

Name.
Adonis

Sub Class.
H. C.

Alphonse Maille

P.

P.

Apifolia

p.

Baron Cuvier

H C.

Berlesc

p

Blanchcfleur

H C

Blairii

H. C.

Carmin Royal

D

Carnea

IT C

De Candolle

11 C

Elise Vaiart

D

Fulo'cns

II C.

Gen. Foy

II C.

Gazelle

H C.

La Ne°resse

D.

La Superbe

D.

La Touterelle

H. C.

Madam Plantier.

H. C.

Madam Mortier

H. C.

Ne Plus Ultra

H. C.

Pi'ince Caroline

H C

p.

Unique Panachfc

p

Village Maid.

p

York and Lancaster
Warratah ...

P.
D.

Mosses.

Alice Leroy Lilac shade of rose.

Blanche Clear white, very fragrant.

Celina Brilliant crimson, very mossy.

Comtesse do Muvonais Blush, strong grower.

Cristata Buds crested, color light carmine.

Damask Moss Light crimson, very fine.

Etna Crimson, fine cupped form.

Laneii Deep pink, full double.

Luxembourg Crimson, purple shaded.

Perpetual White or 4 Seasons.. Blush white, semi-double, fall flowering.

Princcsse Adelaide Deep rose, strong grower.

Unique de Province White, back of petals red before opening.

White Bath Pure white, very mossy.

Briers.

Harrisonii Pale yellow, semi-double.

Hebe's Lip White, tinted carmine.

Maiden's Blush Large, blush colored, very fragrant

90 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Persian Yellow Deep golden yellow.

Victoria Salmon, centre buff.

Stan well Blush white, strong grower.

William 4th White, vigorous grower.

Yellow Cabbage. Deep yellow, very double.

Climbing; Roses.

Baltimore Belle Blush white, blooming in large clusters.

Eva Corrine Deep blush, very double.

Gem of the Prairies (Burgess').Large, full; carmine, blotched white.-,

Laura Devoust Deep rose, immense truss.

Mrs. Hovey French white, large and fine.

Madam D' Arblay Creamy white, splendid.

Pallida Pale pink, full and vigorous grower.

Ruga Blush, exceedingly fragrant.

Russeliana Crirnson, shading to pink.

Queen of the Prairies Deep rose, striped white.

Superba Flesh color, clusters immense.

The Garland Blush, shading to white.

CLASS II.— Hybrid Perpetual or Remontant Roses.

Auguste Mie Pale shade of rose, full and cup-shaped.

Baronne Prevost Bright rose, very double, extra fine.

Baron ne De Maynard Pure white.

Blanche Vibert Pure white, delicate grower.

>y\Beaiity of Waltham Crimson scarlet.

O Caroline de Sansal Blush pink centre,free,summcr blooming.

Cardinal Patrizzi Brilliant crimson.

Clementine Duval Dwarf habit, clear rose color.

Comte de Paris Light crimson, lilac shade.

Comtesse Duchatel .Deep carmine, splendid.

^Eugene Appert Scarlet crimson.

3Geant des Batailles Reddish crimson, splendid.
General Washington Scarlet crimson, very full, free.

General Forey Clear carmine red.

v , General Jacqueminot Purplish crimson, most brilliant.

General Lane Dark rose.

Imperatrice Josephine Light rose, very double.

Jules Margottin Bright scarlet crimson.

Joseph Vernot Light rose color.

v John Hopper Deep shade of pink.

La Reine Satin rose, extra large.

Louis Verger Carmine crimson, splendid.

. Louis Odier Bright salmon rose, fine form.

/ -» Le Lion des Combats Curious shade of purple.

Mrs. Reynolds Cupped carmine, extra fine.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 91

Madame de Willermots Mauve shade of carmine.

& Madame Victor Verdier Carmine, cupped.

Madame C. D'Islay Light rosy blush.

Madame Laflfay Crimson, exceedingly fragrant.

Madame Trotter Bright pink, flowering in clusters.

Madame Rivers Silvery blush, spleu'did form.

Mrs. Charles Wood Brilliant red, changing to rose.

Oderic Vitalle Delicate rose, silvery shading.

Paeonia Reddish crimson, very profuse bloomer.

Purple of Orleans Purplish violet.

v Pius 9th Ci-iinson violet.

Princesse Mathilde Deep blush.

Queen Victoria Pale flesh color, tinted carmine.

Reine des Violettcs Dark purplish violet.

— Sydonia Light blush.

Souvenir de Count Cavour . . . .Dark, glossy crimson.

Triomphe de 1' Exposition Crimson red, extra fine.

William Penn Light crimson, finely cupped.

Wm. Griffith Deep rose, splendid form.

Wm. Jess Light crimson, lilac tinge.

~ Yollancl D'Arragon Blush, free summer bloomer.

Zelpha White, tinged blush.

Zoe Clear scarlet crimsoii, extra fine.

CLASS III.— Noisette.

Aim6 Vibert Clear white, fine form.

America Straw color, shaded salmon.

Belle de Bordeaux Rose, violet shaded.

Chromatella Deep yellow, very tender.

Caroline Marniesse Blush white, immense clusters.

Gloire de Dijon Blush white, buff centre.

Herbemont's Cluster Deep carmine, semi-double.

Joan of Arc; Pure white, straw centre. [extra.

Lamaraque Large, double ; white, yellowish centre,

Minette Light crimson, very double,large clusters.

Madame Deslongchamps Pure white.

Marshal Niel Large and full, deep yellow, extra.

Ophir Salmon, shaded orange ; distinct.

Oteri Orange, shaded pink ; dwarf. [there.

Rosamond Bright crimson, semi-double, yellow an«

Smithii Pure yellow, slender grower.

Susanna Yellowish white, strong grower.

Souvenir d'Anseleme Deep carmine, vigorous grower.

Sarmentosa Flesh color, large, full, very fine.

Solfalatcrre Deep straw color, large, extra fine.

Sir Walter Scott Dark purple, strong grower.

Set'na Clear pink, large and full.

92 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Washington Pure white, semi-double, large clusters,

Triumphant Large, double rose, vigorous.

Well's Pink Eich full clusters of carmine rose.

Zobede Crimson and purple shaded.

Bourbon.

Bosanquet Kich blush, free grower and bloomer.

Bouquet de Flore Deep carmine, large and fragrant.

Cardinal Fesch Deep crimson purple.

Crimson Globe Purplish crimson, strong grower.

De Tourville Purplish carmine, very fine.

Due de Chartres Large, double ; crimson.

Edouard Defosses Bright rose, cup-shaped.

George Cuvier Rosy carmine, splendid form.

Glory of Algiers Bright crimson.

Henri Plantier Deep pink, splendid shape.

Henry Clay Pale blush.

Hermosa Light rose, one of the most popular.

Jules Farfait Rosy purple, fine form, extra.

Jupiter Rich shade of crimson violet.

Leveson Gower Salmon rose, very large and double.

Madam Neuman Purplish crimson.

Paul Joseph Splendid crimson, but weak grower.

Phenix Deep rose, with fragrance of Damask.

Pierre de St. Cyr Pale pink, strong grower.

Proserpine Light carmine, very fragrant.

Psyche Light rose, very double, excellent.

Queen of Bourbons Rich blush, very dwarf habit.

Splendens Splendid crimson, vigorous.

Souvenir de la Malmaison Flesh color, very double, splendid, [best.

Sombriel Blush white, strong grower, one of the

Vicomte de Gassy Cherry red, vigorous grower.

Vulcan Deep shade of carmine.

'Tea.

Adam Rich rose, salmon shaded, extra.

Alphonsine Deep pink, fine form.

Aurora Yellow, shaded rose.

Bougere Deep blush, large and fine.

Belle Allemande Blush, tinted rose.

Buret Large; deep pink.

Bon Silene Large ; rich pink.

Camellia Blanche Pure white.

Cortas Blush, mottled pink.

Caroline Pale rose, deep carmine centre.

Chas. Reybaud Salmon, tinted lilac.

Chrysocome Yellow, shaded orange.

CULTUKE OF THE ROSE. 93

Clara Sylvain Pure white, extra fine.

Devoniensis Blush ; magnolia fragrance ; delicate.

Fleur de Cygnes French white, profuse bloomer.

Isabella Sprunt Clear canary yellow.

Louise de Savoy Deep yellow, delicate.

Le Pactole Canary yellow.

Melville Pinkish lilac.

Marie de Ban Rich blush.

Madame Maurin Pure white.

Madame Bravy Globular, white.

Madame Falcot Orange yellow, very free.

Nina Large ; pinkish violet.

Olympe Fraguip Sulphur yellow.

Pauline Labonte Light blush.

Rubens Yellowish blush.

Souvenir d'un Ami Light lilac.

Soette French white.

Safrano Orange yellow.

White Tea

Beng-al.

Appoline Cupped carmine.

Agrippina Bright crimson.

Bourbon Queen Rich blush.

Beau Carmine Light crimson.

Bosanquet Blush white.

Comte Bobinsky Rich carmine.

Ct. De Rohan Purplish red.

Cramoise Superior Purplish crimson.

Douglas Rich violet.

Louis Philippe Light crimson.

Leondis Rosy red.

Madame Morel Cream color, centre pink.

Madame Rohan Pure white.

Napoleon Blush, extra large.

Romeo Dark reddish-crimson.

Sully Pale rose, tinted salmon.

Virginale Rose and crimson.

Vesuvius Brilliant crimson.

PROPAGATION" AND CULTURE.

The soil best suited to the Rose is a rather stiff loam,
although it is by no means particular about soils, and is
often seen growing in nearly equal luxuriance in those
widely different ; in stiff clayey loam, however, flowers

94 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

of more substance and depth of coloring will be produced
than in that of a light or sandy character.

The propagation of the Rose is a matter of much
interest, not only to the professional florist but to the
amateur who wishes to increase his plants. The method
in use by florists in this country is usually by cuttings,
directions for which will be found among the general in-
structions given under the head of "Propagation of Plants
by Cuttings."

Roses from ripened or hard wood may be propagated,
the operation being performed at any time from October
to January. The cuttings are usually made with three or
four eyes, just after the wood is ripened enough to show
the development of the buds at the axil of the leaf. The
method we have most successfully practiced is to place
cuttings in cold frames, such as are formed on the surface
of the ground, and are used for wintering cabbage, and
cauliflower, planting the cuttings exactly as we would do
those plants, and subjecting them to the same winter treat-
ment of airing, yet keeping them as free from severe
freezing as can be done during winter. Rose cuttings
placed in such frames about the end of October will be
rooted and fit to pot in March. Those not having the
convenience of frames may do it equally well with the
protection of the ordinary garden hand glass. In either
case it is necessary that the soil be thoroughly drained so
that no water stand on it in winter. If the soil in which
they are placed is not naturally sandy, it had better be
prepared in about equal proportions of sand, leaf mould,
and loam, well mixed together. The cuttings should be
inserted quite thickly, say from J| 3 to 1 inch apart, and
at distances of about 3 inches between the rows. This
space is sufficient to allow the soil to be firmly pressed
about the cuttings, as the process of placing them goes
on. One thorough watering, when put in to settle the soil
closely around them, will usually be all that is necessary

CULTURE OP THE ROSE.

95

until they begin to root in spring. Cuttings planted m
this manner in October or November, and kept merely
from freezing during winter, will be rooted in March, pre-
senting the appearance shown in figure 29.

The success much depends on the varieties and fit con-
dition of the cuttings,
for we find that in a
collection of 50 sorts,
every cutting of some
varieties will root, while
in others we fail to get '
more than 5 per cent.
But if properly treated
it may be safe to ex-
pect 50 per cent of
rooted cuttings as an
average. As soon as, or
even before, they show
the extent of root in-
dicated in the engrav-
ing, they should be pot-
ted in two-inch pots,
shaded and watered for
a few days and gradu-
ally hardened off by ex- Fig. 29.— CUTTING OF OLD WOOD.
posing them to the air, when they will be sufficiently
rooted to plant in the open ground in April or May. Some
propagators plant them at once from the cutting bed to
the open ground, but this is attended with risk, for unless
the weather is continuously favorable for two or three
days one-half of them may be lost. We have always
found that placing them in pots and keeping them under
the protection of sashes for a few weeks well repaid the
extra labor. Nearly all deciduous shrubs may be propa-
gated in this manner, most of them even more successfully
than the Rose.

90 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

The method best suited to the amateur or to those who
have no propagating structures, is by layering.

This is done as shown in figure 30. It will be observed
that the cut is made on the upper part of the shoot ; the
advantage of this is, that when the layer is detached from
the parent plant, the tongue of the layer, or the part from
which the roots are emitted, is less likely to be broken off
than if the cut is made under or on the side. Layers of
Roses may be made at any time from the middle of June to
the middle of September, always using shoots of the young

Fig. 30. — LAYERING THE ROSE.

growth — that is, a growth of 3 or 4 weeks old, or such as
are not so much ripened as to drop the leaves ; or, in other
words, the cut should always be made at that part of the
shoot where there are as green and healthy leaves below
as above the cut. This condition of the shoot is very im-
portant, in order to produce a well-rooted layer. By cut-
ting lower down in the harder-ripened wood, roots will be
produced, but the layers will be very inferior to those cut
at about the point named. The same rule applies to the
layering of shrubs of all kinds.

Another mode of layering not in general use is, to place
the layer where the incision is made, in a 3 or 4-inch pot,
sinking the pot in the ground to the level of the rim ; all
the roots being confined in the pot, when the layer is lifted
no check is given, as there is no injury done to the small
fibers. Layers so made may be planted out in the fall,
and if a little mulching is given around the roots, not one
plant in a hundred will fail ; while if the layering is done

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 97

in the usual way, without pots, a heavy percentage is
almost certain to be lost during the winter. To the florist
without proper means of propagation, this method of
layering Roses in pots will be found very advantageous,
as every layer so made will make an excellent flowering-
plant by spring, if kept in a green-house or frame during the
winter, and will prove nearly as valuable to the purchaser
as large one-year-old plants would. Roses are also prop-
agated by budding in the usual way. Budding, like layer-
ing, may be performed on the Rose at any time during the
season from June to September, although it is best to per-
form it either so early, say before the middle of July, that
the buds will start and the shoots get time to ripen before
frost, or so late, from the end of August to the 1st of Oc-
tober, that the buds will remain dormant until spring.

That the operation may be successful, it is essential
that the stock be in thrifty growth, so that the bark will
freely part from the stem, and, also, that the bud to be
inserted be taken from a healthy-growing plant, the eye
or bud at the axil of the leaf being well developed.
There is quite a diversity of opinion among different
operators whether the thin piece of wood should be re-
moved from the bud before insertion. We have experi-
mented extensively in both ways, and found but little
difference in our success, and have finally settled down to
the practice that if the bud is young and unripened, the
wood be allowed to remain ; if well ripened, it is taken
out. In tying, we prefer the soft cotton used for lamp-
wick in preference to any other material, as it expands
with the growth of the shoot, doing away with the neces-
sity of slacking the tie to prevent it from cutting the bark.

MONTHLY ROSES — HOW TO PRESERVE DURING WINTER.

The question is asked me many hundred times every
season, " What kind of Roses shall I plant ?" I invaria-
t>ly recommend the " Monthly," rather than the sq-called

98 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

" Perpetual " varieties, which, with very few exceptions,
sustain their " Perpetual " character by only once flower-
ing freely, in June, with occasionally a few scattering
flowers throughout the summer and fall. While with the
monthly varieties, we have not only a monthly, but an
almost daily supply of flowers, embracing far more vari-
ety of color, from June till November. There is no plant
sold, which, for the first season, at least, is so unsatisfac-
tory to the buyer as the Perpetual Rose ; the purchaser
in good faith believes that its name indicates a perpetual
flowering character, and is woefully disappointed to find
that the flowers or flower buds which are on it when pur-
chased are nearly the last that are seen on it for that sea-
son. True, its entirely hardy nature, sustaining it un-
scathed through the winter, compensates for the first
year's disappointment by a gorgeous bloom in June, but
this is all ; for the remainder of the season there is
little ornamental about it. On the other hand, the
Monthly Rose, the original types of which are natives of
China,xare evergreen and ever-blooming, if not arrested
by severe frosts, for in the milder latitudes of our South-
ern States, they grow and bloom without cessation the
entire season, unless, perhaps, for a month or two in ex-
tremely dry and hot weather in summer. But now comes
the question, Are these Monthly Roses hardy in our
Northern States ? They are certainly not so with ordinary
treatment, but I will briefly describe a very simple proc-
ess by which they can be preserved in as good condition
during winter as the hardiest Perpetual or Prairie Rose.
The success of the plan, however, depends greatly on the
condition of the soil in which they are growing. If it is
naturally dry, having a gravelly or sandy subsoil, it is
certain to succeed ; but if wet and undrained, they can-
not be saved by this or any other process. The operation
is to remove three or four inches of soil from one side of
the plant close up to the roots, and of a length and width

CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

99

proportioned to the size of the bush, as represented by
figure 31. The plant is next bent down into the excava-
tion, and held in place by a
few pegs, as shown in figure
32. It is then covered en-
tirely, root and branches, by
sods, placed grassy side up-
wards, and presents, when
finished, a little hillock, in
Fig. 31.— DIGGING THE TRENCH, appearance like figure 33.
There is one very important condition to success, which
is, the time at which it is done. Few of our rose ama-
teurs have any idea of the amount of freezing that the
most tender Tea Rose even, will sustain without injury,
and would, in consequence,
be apt to hurry to put their
plants under their winter
covering on the appearance
of the first slight frost in
October. This would most

. . , j. A T ! Fig. 32.— PEGGED DOWN.

certainly prove iatal, by

causing them to rot during the still warm autumn
weather. We usually have frost in this part of the coun-
try in October to injure most green-house plants that are
exposed. Yet I have never seen it severe enough to in-
jure Roses of any kind be-
fore the middle of December,
to which time the covering
up should be delayed. Cov-
ering the ground, however,
around the bushes with three
or four inches of straw or

Fig. 33. — COVERED FOR WINTER. 1 - q + f 4^ fj,

from being frozen, should be done a month earlier ; this little
precaution will allow of excavation at the time of covering
with the sod. The time here given for the operation (the

100 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

middle of December) is that best suited for tho latitude of
New York ; sections to the north or south must be varied
accordingly. Perhaps the best rule that can be given is,
to delay the operation until the ground can no longer be
plowed or dug with the spade. The covering of sod may be
removed as soon as vegetation fairly starts in spring — for
this section, say the middle of April — and the plants raised
to the upright position and closely pruned. It will be un-
derstood that in the process of bending down, the roots
are only disturbed slightly on the side that has been ex-
cavated ; consequently they have nearly the full vigor of
undisturbed roots, and the plants will grow in a way that
will amply repay the little labor bestowed upon them. Ev-
ery plant thus saved over has a value four-fold that of any
thing which can be planted in spring, for the obvious reason
that it has not had its roots disturbed by removal This
plan is a great improvement on that sometimes practised
of digging them up and burying them in the fall, to be
unearthed and again replanted in spiing, for this cannot
be done without mutilation of the root, and consequently
diminished growth the next season. Plants of different
kinds vary much in their ability to recuperate after plant-
ing, and few suffer more than the Rose ; hence the necessity
of practising the method recommended, in preference to
that of digging them up. But a still worse plan is, for
amateurs in gardening to lift their Rose plants and pot
them in fall, and attempt to keep them in the house or
cellar in winter ; in nine cases out of ten they never live
till spring, and if they do, only linger out a miserable and
diseased existence. Roses are often expensive, and always
valued plants, and we can well imagine how natural it is
on the approach of cold weather to lift and pot them, and
place them in the window of a warm sitting-room or
parlor ; but this kindness is killing to them, for they are
not a kind of plant that desires heat at this season, or in
this condition of their growth. It is still more delusive to

CULTTTKE OF THE EOSE. 101

think that they can be lifted from the ground in fall and
potted so that they will bloom during winter; perhaps by
such treatment as can be given in a cool green-house or
frame, they may be got to bloom by February or March,
but they should never be forced into bloom earlier, unless
they have been grown in pots during the summer pre-
vious.

The above is described as applied to a single plant, but
a whole bed may be covered in the same manner.

EOSES IN POTS.

As millions of Roses are now sold in pots in spring, we
will briefly state the method we have most successfully
adopted in growing large numbers annually for the past
dozen years. The plants used are those struck from cut-
tings in March and April, and planted out in the open
ground in May ; these make plants averaging 18 inches
in height, with proportionate breadth, by the first of No-
vember. Although, as before stated, we make no special
preparation of soil for any particular class of plants, we
are always more careful that the soil used for Roses be
fresh. While our regular mixture of decomposed sods
and manure suits very well for plants generally when it is
two or three years old, we prefer that for Roses to be but
a few months cut from the field before it is used. In
lifting up the plants from the ground, all possible care is
taken to save the fibres from injury, and they are, on no
consideration, ever allowed to be exposed to drying winds
or to wilt in any way, being sprinkled at intervals while
laying in the heaps in the potting shed. We prefer to
prune (which we do with scissors) before potting ; it is not
only done twice as quickly, but it also relieves the plant at
once from surplus shoots, and being, when pruned, more
compact to handle, it can be potted in half the time. The
pots used are from 4 to 8 inches in diameter, in propor-

102 PRACTICAL FLOKICTJLTUKE.

tion to the size of the plants. The potting is done rather
firmer than in most plants, the Rose preferring a stiff soil.
When potted, they are freely watered ; shaded, if sunny,
and kept close for 8 or 10 days. Now comes the most
important point, the place in which they are to be kept
during winter. This must be where they will not be
excited into growth; an ordinary green-house tempera-
ture, suited for Geraniums or Fuchsias, would be destruc-
tive to Roses in their dormant state, when they are with-
out <; working roots." If kept in a green-house at all, its
temperature should never exceed 40° at night, with fire-
heat, and if it falls down to 32°, now and then, it will do
no harm. But this kind of temperature can be best ob-
tained in a cold pit or frame, where there is no flue or
pipes, or other means of heating. These pits should be
sunk from 18 inches to 2 feet below the level of the
ground, in some sheltered spot, facing south, and, above
all, so situated that no water will stand in the bottom of
the pit ; if not naturally dry, it must be made so by
thorough draining. The Roses placed in the pit should
be plunged to the rim of the pots in tan bark, sawdust,
coal ashes, or some such material. Air should be given
at all times when the weather will permit, and the sashes
covered sufficiently at night to prevent the plants being
frozen much ; a slight frost may not injure, but they will
be safer and better if never frozen at all. In severe snow-
storms, the plants being in a dormant state, there is no
occasion to uncover for two or three weeks, unless to
take precautions against the inroads of mice or rats,
which are often destructive. We allow the Roses, when
placed in frames, to remain in them until the middle of
February, by which time they have formed young root-
lets, and will then stand the higher temperature of the
green-house, to which they are then brought to get them
in shape to force into bloom, so as to be in salable con-
dition in April and May.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 103

EOSES FOR WINTER BLOOMING.

Roses for winter blooming require a different treatment,
as one essential condition of forcing for flower is that the
plant has abundance of active, or, as we term them,
"working roots." For this reason, Roses required for
winter blooming are either planted out in prepared bord-
ers in the green-house in spring or early summer, or else
grown in pots throughout the summer, so that by fall the
plant is supplied with an abundance of " working roots."
Plants are started for this purpose either by cuttings struck
in March, or else the year-old plants are used ; but in
either case, care must be taken that shiftings are made
sufficiently often during the season to prevent the roots
becoming what is termed pot-bound. In this condition,
there is a matting of hard roots formed around the ball
of soil, and touching the sides of the pot. Whenever the
fibres begin to lose their whiteness and become hard and
woody, their power of absorption, to a great extent,
ceases, and, in consequence, we at once have a loss of
vigor in the plant. For this same reason, every care must
be taken to have the plants supplied with moisture during
the hot, dry days of summer, for, if once allowed to wilt,
you have dried up the white, working roots, and before
the plant can regain its impaired vigor, new ones must be
formed. We find that when we dig up a Rose plant in
November, and pot it with all the care possible, we can-
not get it to regain its vigor, unless it is kept at the low
temperature previously recommended until nature has re-
paired the destruction of the feeding roots, which occurred
in digging it up. By attempting to force it into flower, by
placing it in a high temperature in this condition, you will
either kill it outright, or else cause it to produce a few fee-
ble and abortive shoots and flowers. But the case is very
different if the plant has been so treated as to have an abund-
ance of active roots ; its system is in full vigor, and it will

104 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE.

continue to produce shoots and flowers in profusion
during any part of fall or winter, at the will of the
operator, proper judgment being used to prune in the
plants previous to the desired time of flowering. Thus,
if Rose-buds are wanted at the first of January, it will be
necessary to prune off or shorten the shoots about Novem-
ber 1st ; they may then be put into a temperature ranging
from 50° to 60°, at night, with 15° higher daring the day,
plentifully syringed, but sparingly supplied with water at
the roots until they begin to grow freely. In the summer
treatment, I have omitted to state that the plants should
be at all times fully exposed to the sun, but, to counteract
the drying up from this exposure, the pots should be
plunged to the rim in sawdust, refuse hops, tan bark, sand,
or some such material, as is most convenient. Another
plan that may be adopted when it is not convenient to
carry the Roses through the summer in pots, is to
lift up and pot those planted out early in the fall, say
by the middle of September, or, at latest, the first of
October ; if carefully lifted thus early, and kept from
wilting, they will have filled the pots with working roots
by November, and will make plants nearly as good for
forcing as those grown throughout the entire summer in
pots. For this purpose, two-year-old plants are much bet-
ter than those only one year old, as, having more fibres,
they more quickly form the essential " working" roots.

There are comparatively few varieties of Roses suitable
for producing flowers in sufficient abundance in winter
to make it profitable, and these few are such as in the
summer months are by no means our finest; but they
are selected for winter, not for their developed flowers, but
for their buds. Thus the Safrano, one of the most valued for
its saffron yellow buds, is but semi-double Those most
valued by the New York florists are :

Lamarqne. — White, with a tinge of straw color in the
centre ; a vigorous grower, usually trained up the rafters.

CTTLTUKE OF THE HOSE. 105

Thousands of feet of green-house are devoted exclusively to
this variety.

Solfaterre, — A bright straw color, of growth similar to
Lamarque, but more shy of flowering, and on this account
grown only in limited numbers.

Set ilia, — Or climbing Hermosa, a climbing variety suit-
able for rafters ; pink.

SafranOi — Saffron yellow; abundant bloomer; of rich
Tea odor ; the one grown next to Lamarque in greatest
abundance.

^ Isabella Spnmt, — Exactly like Safrano, except in color,
which is a bright canary yellow.

Agrippina, — Rich deep crimson, with an occasional
splash of white through the centre.

La Phenix, — Deep shade of carmine ; most abundant
bloomer, with the rich fragrance of the damask or moss.

^ La Pactole. — Color, light canary shade, light enough
to be used as a white ; the most abundant bloomer of any
yet named ; Tea scented. We value this variety so highly,
both for summer and winter flowering, that we have grown
ten thousand plants of it alone this season.

Hermosa, — Another favorite variety, with rosy pink
flowers ; most prolific flowering variety.

\ Pauline La bout e, — Light blush or cream color, similar
in style of growth and shape of flower to La Pactole.

y Bon Silene, — A variety largely grown in the vicinity of
Boston ; of a deep salmon shade of pink, of rich tea fra-
grance, and of large size ; the bud often two inches long.

Gloire de Dijon, — Large, full ; buff, shaded with salmon.

Marshal Niel. — This we include from its distinctive col-
or of deep yellow and its large and handsome bud more
than for its productive qualities. It has not yet been tried
in sufficient quantity to test it, but from what w<* bave seen
5*

106 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

we are inclined to think it will hardly be retained as a first-
class forcing rose.

The greatest pest wd have to contend with in Rose cul-
ture is mildew. Opinions as to its cause are varied and
contradictory. The theory is that mildew being a fun-
goid growth the seeds of which are ever present in the
atmosphere, when a relaxed condition of the plant en-
sues the minute seeds find a suitable place for their devel-
opment in the enfeebled leaf. Therefore we believe that
any thing that impedes the flow of the sap places the
plant in that condition fitted to develop mildew. Thus
vre often see our Roses without a taint of mildew during
all the winter and early spring months, until the hot, dry
days of the middle or end of May dry the soil in the pots
to such a degree that the plant wilts — the sap is impeded,
and mildew follows. Or a door is left open and the frosty
air fastens on the stems and leaves, congeals the sap, enfee-
bles the plant, and though from an entirely opposite
cause, the result is the same.

I once had a most marked example of this kind. Early
in April, we had an old-fashioned lean-to green-house
filled with Roses in full leaf, in the very highest state of
vigor. The house was some sixty feet in length and was
ventilated by sliding down every alternate sash at the top.
In ventilating on one occasion, the sashes had been neg-
lected until so late in the evening that the Roses exposed
to the air had become chilled by frost so that the young
shoots hung down as if wilted ; as the green-house got heat-
ed up they recovered, and to all appearance next morning
looked none the worse for being frozen ; but in a week
after, mildew appeared in a clearly defined square space of
about 3x3 fe§t, following almost exactly in the line where
the plants had been frozen.

Had the sap been arrested by the roots getting dry in
that condition of growth, no doubt the result would have
been the same.

CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA. 107

Like most other diseases, mildew is best met by preven-
tion rather than cure, and for this reason all care should
be taken to avoid the extremes referred to, and, as far as
possible, to avoid great variation of temperature. Sul-
phur is applied in various ways to destroy mildew, but will
often fail if the disease has gained much headway. The
best way is to use it mildly as a preventive. This is done
by boiling 3 Ibs. of sulphur and 3 Ibs. of lime in 6 gallons
of water until it is reduced to 2 gallons ; allow the liquid to
settle until it gets clear, then put it in a jar or bottle it for
use. One gill of this is mixed in 5 gallons of water and
syringed over the Roses in the evening. Applied in this
weak state it does not injure the leaves, and yet has the
effect of preventing milde\v, if perseveringly attended to,
as the seeds of mildew seemingly cannot vegetate in an
atmosphere or in a soil impregnated with sulphur.

Roses, when grown in pots, particularly in cold pits,
are often much troubled by the common angle-worm. An
effective means of destroying them is to slake a peck of
lime in 50 gallons of water, and water the plants freely
with the liquid after it has become clear.

CHAPTER XVI.

CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA

I much doubt if there is another chapter in this work in
which so much interest will be taken by many gardeners as
in this, for hundreds of them, entirely successful in all other
operations, signally fail with the Verbena. As it is
known to thousands that in this matter we have always
been successful, they will have interest in knowing what
our peculiar mode of culture is that thus far has exempted
as from the disease affecting this plant — known as

108 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUEE.

" black rust," — and enabled us to grow it for nearly twenty
years untainted by disease. I will make the starting-
point the first of April. At that date take cuttings from
healthy plants ; see that they are taken in the condition
described in the Chapter on Propagation — that is, that
they are in such a state that they will break on being bent.
They will root fit to be potted off, in eight or ten days,
and will be fine, healthy plants to put in the open ground
in thirty days after. Verbenas are not at all particular
about soil, provided it is not water-soaked; we have
planted them on soils varying from almost pure sand to
heavy clay, and, provided it was enriched by manure, there
was but little difference in the growth or bloom. Planted
out in May, by August they will have spread to a dis-
tance of three feet, the plants profusely covered with flow-
ers and seed pods. Now at this time, say the middle of Au-
gust, this profuse flowering and seeding seems to lessen the
vitality of the plant and put it in the condition to invite
the attack of the " black rust " producing insect. To sustain
the vitality of the plant and recuperate its exhausted forces,
we cut back the extremities of tie shoots some six inches,
in all plants from which we design to propagate, free the
plants of decayed leaves, and thin out where too thick at
the centre. Then we fork up the soil around each plant,
adding a compost of equal parts of fresh soil and rotted
manure to the depth of two or three inches. Young
shoots, as they develop, root into this with avidity, pro-
ducing a soft and healthy growth, which by the first
or middle of October, gives us just the style of cutting we
require. Now the process of propagation begins, which
may be carried on either in the propagating house, in the
usual way, or by the saucer system, as before described ; but
by whichever method the propagation is effected, let me
again mention the importance of taking the cutting in that
succulent condition in which it will snap on being bent.
Do not attempt to pot the old plant or the layers of the

CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA. 109

Verbena, or even to take a shoot for a cutting which has
formed a root in the ground ; for in most cases the roots
so formed are so low down that the shoot is hard and
woody at that point, and will not be likely to produce such
roots as will give a healthy growth. It is by starting
wrong in the fall, and impairing the vitality of the plant,
and placing it in an enfeebled state, that disease is invited.

In the directions given in the Chapter on Propagation
great importance is attached to the necessity of potting
off cuttings immediately on being rooted. If this is nec-
essary with any plant, it is especially so with the Verbena,
as no plant is more susceptible of injury from allowing the
roots to become elongated and hardened in the cutting
bench. Cuttings thus neglected make hard, slim plants,
which, even if they do escape the insect pest, are not likely
to make thrifty plants. On potting the cuttings, they are
placed in a green -house or frame, and shaded in the usual
way for two or three days or as long as the condition of
the weather may require. As soon as they have struck
root in the soil of the pots, they should be kept cool, and
abundantly supplied with air by tilting up or letting down
the sash.

No fire heat need be given, except sufficient to keep
them from freezing, and if a temperature can be sustained
throughout the entire winter months ranging from 40°
to 45°, at night, and not to exceed 10° higher during
the day until the beginning of March, there is no doubt
whatever of having a healthy and vigorous stock, provid-
ing proper attention has been given to watering and to
fumigation by tobacco. "Watering we do by force-pump
and hose, as elsewhere described, drenching the plants
thoroughly overhead by a sprinkler, whenever they show
indications of being dry.

Continued fumigation is of the utmost importance in the
culture of all plants under glass, but it is perfectly indis-
pensable to the welfare of the Verbena. In all Our Verbe-

110 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

na houses we fumigate, on an average, two or three times
each week ; we do not wait to see the aphis or green fly,
but apply the antidote solely as a preventive. No omis-
sion is so inexcusable as that of permitting plants to be
injured by this insect.

Although I have elsewhere stated (see chapter on In-
sects) that the very minute one which produces the
troublesome " black rust " on the Verbena seems invul-
nerable to the fumes of tobacco smoke, yet I have a be-
lief that our unremitting practice of fumigating may be,
after all, the true reason of our exemption from its attack ;
for although this insect may have the faculty of imbedding
itself in the leaf on the approach of danger, its eggs, being
stationary and exposed, may be destroyed by the action
of the smoke ; at all events, we have repeatedly brought
varieties of Verbena severely affected by the rust into our
collection, which in a few weeks appear entirely free
from the disease, showing that our treatment in some way
or other destroyed the enemy.

There is no question that this insect, so fatal to the
health of the Verbena, is most active and destructive in a
high temperature ; hence we find that whenever Verbenas
are kept in a mixed green-house collection, where Fuch-
sias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, etc., are grown (usually in
night temperature of 55° or 60°), the Verbena becomes af-
fected by black rust ; showing that its minute enemy is at
work sapping its life-current.

I am glad to state this fact, so that the employers of
gardeners may not blame their men for incapacity, and that
the amateur attending to his own conservatory may know
why his Fuchsias or Bouvardias become brown and starved
looking, while his Verbenas luxuriate ; or why, when his
Verbenas become diseased, the former are in health and
vigor.

Verbenas, whether grown for sale or for private use, if we
would have plants in fine health and vigor in May, should

CULTIVATION OF THE VERBENA. Ill

not be propagated sooner than January. To be sure, the
•" stock " plants, to produce the cuttings, must be raised
the fall previous (in October or November), but such plants
become exhausted by spring and are inferior to later prop-
agations.

In our own practice the necessities of our business re-
quire us to put in an uniform number of cuttings every two
weeks from November to April ; the last lot, which we pot
off at the end of April, usually making the finest plants.

In raising Verbenas from seed, we sow thickly about the
first of February in shallow boxes, using a covering of
one-twelfth of an inch of some light compost, such as well-
rotted hbps or leaf mould, and keep them uniformly moist
in a temperature averaging 50° at night. In three or four
weeks from the lime of sowing, prick off the plants in-
to a similar compost, at a distance of an inch apart.
From this time they will grow freely, and may be planted
out in the open ground the first week in May. In plant-
ing out, we set them two feet apart in the rows and four
inches only between the plants, as, of course, on flowering
the largest proportion are pulled out, and only those
of superior merit are kept.

It seems almost useless to particularize the varieties of
the Verbena, as the yearly improvement by new seedlings
will shortly be such that those we designate as the finest
to-day, will, perhaps, in five years be deemed unwor-
thy of cultivation. Still, in this, as in other flowers, it is
necessary to name a few of what are considered the best
of each class, so that in after years an estimate of the im-
provement can be made. Those named are mainly Amer-
ican seedlings, which, without doubt, are far in advance of
European varieties; our brighter sunshine and climate,
being more suitable to the development of seed, give us
great advantage in originating new varieties.
~~Acme. — Deep maroon, yellow centre; petal forming a
perfect circle.

112 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Ada. — Ground color, rich blush, with a circle of deep
carmine surrounding a deep yellow centre spot ; novel and
distinct.

Black Diamond. — Rich, blackish-maroon, the darkest
yet of all known sorts!

Brightness. — Scarlet crimson ; dwarf, compact habit ;
one of the very best bedding varieties.

BlttC Shade. — Mazarine blue ; round white centre ; very
distinct.

Ball Of Fire, — Dark, dazzling scarlet ; fine dwarf bed-
der.

Clara, — White, clearly striped with carmine; excellent.

Crimson Glow. — Scarlet crimson; large, round, .white
centre ; dwarf.

Dowager. — Violet plum color ; very large, clear white
centre.

Dnnidan* — Carmine, very large, with deep, yellow cen-
tre marking.

Elllalie. — Mauve, tinted lilac; large white centre.

Fire Gleam. — Rich, light scarlet, dwarf; very profuse.

Handel. — Rich purplish-blue ; exceedingly fragrant.

Mrs. Woodruff, — An old English variety, as yet unsur-
passed for brilliancy of scarlet. The habit, however, is too
straggling for pot culture.

Mrs. Bliss. — Rich cherry, yellow eye.

MacnlOSa. — White, spotted and speckled with scarlet
and crimson ; free bloomer and exceedingly fragrant.

Melindres alba, — A large truss of clear white; the
plant has the habit and free-blooming qualities of the
scarlet sections.

Nonpareil, — Pink, white and scarlet ringed ; noveL

Scotch Plaid. — White, pink and scarlet striped.

Silver Star, — Dark maroon, relieved by a large, round,
clear white centre ; splendid.

Shot Silk, — Silvery gray, tinted lilac ; exceedingly fra-
grant and profuse bloomer.

CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 11J

The Summit. — This variety was raised by me in 1865 ;
it may be described as white, margined with scarlet crim-
son, the centre of white, often exceeding in extent the
band of crimson ; it is one of the most splendid and re-
markable varieties in cultivation.

The Banner, — Light blue, striped with dark purple.

Z dill (la. — Very light blue, with large, round, white eye.

CHAPTER XVII.
CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE.

I know of no flower that is so generally admired, and
that is yearly plant-
ed with so much,
uncertainty of
blooming as the
Tuberose. The ama-
teur plants his
bulbs of Hyacinths,
Tulips, or Gladio-
lus, and is just as
certain of a bloom
following in due
season as he is that
the sifmmer will
follow the spring.
But it is not so
with his Tuberose
bulbs ; unpleasant
experience has too
often told him that
after selecting the
sunniest spot in
his flower bed,

and planting with Fig. ^.-TUBEROSE BULB WITH SETS.
the greatest care, instead of flowers he is rewarded

114

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

only by a mass of rank, green leaves. Now, as in
most mishaps in amateur horticulture, the cause is a very
simple one ; the knowledge in this case is easily imparted,
and failure need never occur. In the selection of the bulbs,
reject all that do not show signs of vegetation from the

Fig. 35.— SOUND BULB. Fig. SO.— BULB DECAYED AT CENTER.

centre bulb. It is true that they will occasionally flower
even when the centre does not show green, but it is always
doubtful, even to us of the trade. Figure 34 shows a bulb
as it is taken up by the cultivator in the fall — a large cen-
tre bulb with several smaller ones, or " sets," attached.

CULTURE OF THE TUBEROSE. 115

The large bulb only is that which produces the flower,
and if that has rotted in the centre sufficient to destroy
the flower germ, it will not bloom. Figure 35 shows a
perfect bulb cut longitudinally ; Figure 36, one in which
the centre has decayed.

Now, in lifting the bulbs in fall, every bulb is then per
feet, that is, large enough to flower ; those figured are about
the medium natural size. I am satisfied beyond all doubt
that the cause of decay and consequent failure to flower
in the Tuberose is its being kept in too low a temperature
during winter. It is supposed, generally, that it is enough
to keep it dry and free from frost, as we keep potatoes
in a cellar. But unfortunate experience has demonstrated
to me, by a loss of some thousands of dollars, that this is
not enough ; the bulbs must be kept both dry and warm,
from October until May. If they are allowed to remain for
any length of time in a temperature less than 50°, the centre
or flower germ will be destroyed, though the outward ap-
pearance of the bulb to the uninitiated would be the same.
For those who have green-houses, the best place to keep
them is alongside the flue or hot water pipes ; for those
who have not, the shelves in a closet of any jr ell- warmed
room will suffice. The Tuberose is now a plant of rising
importance for market purposes. I have no doubt that a
million roots are grown annually in the vicinity of New
York. The greater part of these are grown by the florists
to supply the bouquet makers with this most important
item in the construction of their baskets of flowers, bouquets,
vases, etc., etc. Tuberose flowers are now produced
nearly all the year round, and sell at wholesale from $1 to
$10 per 100 florets, according to the season, the price
being the highest during the holidays. Each spike aver-
ages 20 florets or single flowers, so that at some seasons
the flowers of a single root of this common bulb produce
$2 at wholesale.

116 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Cultivating the Bulbs,— Our mode is very simple.
After the ground has been well manured and spaded, or
plowed, lines are struck out one foot apart; the small
bulbs or " sets " (see fig 37,) are then planted six inches
apart, and at least four inches below the surface / this we
consider of great importance, as it tends to solidify the
neck of the bulb, and thereby prevent
the disposition to decay. Our time of
planting here is about the 1st of June,
but as they do not begin to grow for
nearly four weeks after planting, it is
necessary to hoe and rake the ground
once or twice before they come up, to
prevent the growth of weeds, which
would otherwise quickly choke them in
their feeble state. The bulbs are matured
by the end of October ; the tops are then
cut off (but not too close,) and the roots
at once placed in a warm and dry place.

Producing Flowers, — To secure a con-
tinuous bloom of the Tuberose, the first
roots should be started in January, first
removing all side shoots or offsets, in
a temperature not less than 65°, and
if kept regularly not below that tern-
Fig. 37. perature, they will flower in May. Those
which are wanted to flower outdoors, and which are of most
interest to general readers, should be started in a green^
house, hot-bed, or warm room, not sooner than the 1st of
May, and planted out in the flower borders three or four
weeks after ; thus treated, they will begin to bloom in Au-
gust, and continue to bloom for two months. In warmer sec-
tions of the country there is no necessity for this forward-
ing treatment, as there the dry bulb planted out in May
will flower freely during the autumn months. For a later
succession of flowers, say for the months of November,

CULTURE OP THE TUEEROSE. 117

December, and January, the bulbs should be kept dry, and
planted by the first or middle of August. These, of course,
must be grown in the hot-house or green-house, as the
Tuberose is a plant requiring at all times a high tempera-
ture.

To give a gradual succession it has been our own prac-
tice for the past four years to plant the dry bulbs on the
green-house benches on July 20th, August 5th, and August
20th, the last lot coming in about Christmas.

Another plan now very extensively practiced by our
New York florists, to produce flowers from February to
May, to succeed and precede those planted from the dry
bulbs, is to lift the strongest growing bulbs that can be
selected from the patch in fall before frost. They are dug
up carefully, first detaching all side shoots, so that a good
ball of soil adheres to the root. They are then either
planted in pots 7 or 8 inches in diameter, or planted at
once on the benches of the hot-house in 6 inches of well-
prepared soil, at about 5 or 6 inches apart. They are then
shaded and freely watered for a few days, until they have
struck out roots sufficient to sustain them without wilt-
ing. So long as the weather continues mild, the protec-
tion of the glass will be sufficiently warm for them at
night; but on the approach of colder weather, firing must
be resorted to, and continued, so that the temperature shall
at no time fall lower than 50° at night, and the nearer
that it can be kept to 60°, as an average, the better. It
will be understood that under these benches on which
the Tuberoses are planted run the pipes or flues, so
that the temperature of the soil in which they are growing
is usually 5 degrees higher than the atmosphere of the hot-
house at night, which is one of the main features of suc-
cess in forcing the Tuberose. Great care is necessary in
airing, which should n.ot be done until the atmosphere of
the house is at 70°, and the nearer that point can be
kept to during the day the better ; above all things nny

118 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTTTRE.

continuance of a low temperature is to be avoided, as the
Tuberose is a plant that succeeds only in a sub-tropical at-
mosphere. When not grown in a house specially adapted
for the purpose, the ordinary stove or hot-house will suffice.
When the flower stem is developed, they should on no con-
sideration be allowed to get dry at the roots, else a whole
or part of the flower buds will shrivel up. Whether the
bulb has been grown to flower in open air or forced in the
hot-house, after it has once flowered it is of no further
value as a flowering root ; the bulb having once flowered
will not flower again, and the only value it has is in the
offsets which it may have formed. These may be planted
out, as before described, to produce new bulbs for the suc-
ceeding season.

The cultivation of the Tuberose as a winter flowering
plant has been practiced in this country only within the
past three or four years, and as yet only in five or six es-
tablishments successfully. Many fail from the cause to
which is due the failure of almost all floricultural operations
— too great a variation of temperature required by the na-
ture of the plant. Still the demand for flowers of such
rare purity and fragrance is such that it will stimulate
many others, doubtless, to exercise the necessary care in
their culture and produce profitable results.

The variety mainly grown is the double one, Polianthea
tuberosa plena, but the single variety is very useful for its
earliness, blooming in the open ground two weeks sooner
than the double variety.

The Gladiolus may be forced in winter by the same
methods as we recommend for the Tuberose.

OECHlD CULTURE. 119

v

CHAPTER XVIII.

ORCHID CULTURE.

[The following brief detail of Orchid culture ia written by
my partner in business, James Fleming, whose success in
handling one of the largest and most valuable collections
in the vicinity of New York well warrants him in giving
instructions on the subject.]

It is only of late years that Orchids have been cultivated
in this country, and it is even now rare to find a collection
of more than a few dozen plants. This, no doubt, is from
the idea entertained by many that they are very difficult
to grow, but this is not by any means the case, as with
favorable conditions they can be as easily grown as a
Camellia or Azalea. As we begin to know more of their
native habitats and the climate and conditions in which
they grow, then we, no doubt, will find them more thor-
oughly distributed through the country, for the Orchidaceae
certainly embrace some of the most beautiful gems in the
floral world. There are a few enthusiastic amateurs
amongst us who deserve great credit for the trouble and
expense they have incurred to enrich their collections and
foster a taste for the cultivation of Orchids.

It is entirely unnecessary to have a separate house for
Orchids, as they can be grown very well with a general
collection of stove plants where a temperature is main-
tained at 60° to 80° or 90° in summer, and 55° to 70° in
(winter for the Indian varieties, and 50° to 75° in summer,
and 45° to 60° in winter, for the South American ones. I
could never see that a few degrees' difference either way
did any injury to the plants, as long as the proper degree
of moisture was maintained. The house ought to be
shaded in summer.

As the cultivation of the Indian and South American
Orchids is the same, the only difference being in the tern-

120 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

perature, I will briefly state the mode of treatment where-
by I have had the most success.

When a tyro in the culture of Epiphytal Orchids, I
commenced by fastening the plants, as imported, upon
blocks of wood and pieces of cork. While some did tolera-
bly well, the greater part did not grow to my satisfaction.
In our hot, dry weather it was almost impossible to keep
up the proper degree of moisture and a free circulation of
air. So I soon found that by placing them in perforated
pots or baskets, I was enabled to keep the roots moist and
give plenty of air ; by this treatment the plants began to
improve daily.

The best material I ever found for potting was a very
fibrous kind of turf, found in a dry part of a fresh water
swamp. It could be -torn up in thin sheets or broken into
blocks of any size. This, mixed with sphagnum, broken
pots, and charcoal in lumps, is the best mixture I ever
tried. The plant should be well raised above the level of
the pot or basket, so that no water may lodge around its
neck, and the mixture built so as to hold it firmly in its
place ; and to give a neat, fresh-like appearance, chop some
green sphagnum up fine, and put a layer over the whole.
Baskets and pots of various sizes and patterns may be used,
square, octagonal, etc., as the fancy of the owner may dic-
tate. The best material for the baskets is locust or red
cedar, as they last long and are not apt to be attacked by
insects.

In potting Terrestrial Orchids, place them a little below
the level of the pot (the same as any ordinary plant, and
not raised as for the Epiphytal ones,) in a compost of rough,
turfy loam, leaf mould, sand, and broken pots, and subject
them to the same temperature as the Epiphytal species.

Water and syringe early in the morning, so that the
sun may soon dry the foliage.

When the growing season is over, gradually lower the tem-
perature, and decrease the Quantity of water ; during the pe-

ORCHID CULTURE.

121

riod of rest use very little water, just enough to keep the
pseudo-bulbs from shrivelling. The best period to rest Or-
chids is from November to March. This will apply to the
majority of species, but there will always be some whose
season of growth and bloom will come in those months;
these, of course, must be kept watered and growing.

Very few insects infest Orchids, scale being the most
troublesome, and the only cure I ever found was to wash
the leaves and pseudo-bulbs well and frequently with
whale oil soap.

The following is a list of a few of the most showy and
easily cultivated kinds.

AERIAL OR EPIPHYTAL.

INDIAN.

^Erides crispum.
" Fieldingii.
" odoraturn.
Angraecum bilobum.
Ansellia Africana.
Dendrobium chrysanthuin.
" Devonianum.

" Farmerii.

* nobile.

Pierardi.
pulchelluui.
Miltonia spectabilis.
Phaloenopsis araabilis.

" grandiflora.

" . Schillcriana.
Saccolabium Bluraei.

curvifolium.
" guttatum.

Trichopilia suavis.
" tortilis.
Vanda coerulea.
" suavis.
" tricolor.

SOUTH AMERICAN.

Cattleya citrina.
crispa.
intermedia,
labiata.
Mossise.
Skinneri.

Chvsis bractescens.
Epidendrum aurantiacum.

" vittelinum.

Gongora atropurpurea.
Laelia acuminata.
albida.
anceps.
Perriuii.
purpurascens.
superbiens.
Lycaste Skinneri.
Odontoglossuin grande.

" bastilabium.

Oncidium lencochilum.
" lurid am.
" papilio.
Stanhopea Devoniensis.
" iusignis.
" tigrina.
Zygopetalum Mackayi.
" maxUlare,

122 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

TERRESTRIAL.

Bletia Tankervilliae. Cypripedium villosum.

Calanthe veratrifolia. Pcristeria elata.

" vestita. Phaius albus.
Cypripedium barbatum. " maculatus.

" candatum. " Wallichii.

" insigne. Uropcdium Lindeni.

" Stonei.

CHAPTER XIX.

HOLLAND BULBS.

The Holland Bulbs, comprising the Hyacinth, Tulip,
Crocus, Snowdrop, Jonquil, Narcissus, Iris, and Frittil-
laria, are all hardy in this section of the country, although
it is always advantageous to cover them with three or
four inches of short manure, refuse hops, or sawdust, as a
protection from being too severely frozen, as this, in cold
and heavy soils, may sometimes injure their flowering.

All Holland Bulbs prefer a rich sandy soil, in preference
to one of heavy clay. They are usually imported annual-
ly, although, with the exception of the Hyacinth, they
can all be grown and increased to advantage in our own
climate.

The bulbs are usually planted in the open ground in
October, Hyacinths at distances of 9 inches apart, Tulips,
Narcissuses, and Jonquils at 6 inches, Crocuses and Snow-
drops, to produce a good effect, at 3 inches. They are
best grouped in beds of each sort by itself to show to ad-
vantage. As soon as their flowering is over in spring,
Verbenas or other bedding plants should be placed in the
beds, as the bulbs are not sufficiently ripened to lift before
June or July. When the leaves by becoming withered
indicate the ripening of the bulbs, they should be lifted,

HOLLAND BULBS. 123

dried, and stored in some cool but dry place, to be again
planted in October. It is essential to lift up and dry all
such bulbs, else they will grow meagerly the succeeding
season. In Europe, Ranunculuses and Anemones are
grown to great advantage, planted in the same manner as
we plant Hyacinths and Tulips, but our winters are too
severe for them, so that they are rarely seen in good con-
dition, except when grown under the protection of a cold
frame, and for this reason are but little cultivated.

Nearly all these bulbs also may be grown as pot plants,
for the green-house or parlor, particularly the Hyacinth,
and as the treatment of them all is nearly alike, we will
briefly give it. For pot culture the best bulbs should
always be selected ; the soil used is about one part decom-
posed cow or horse manure, to two parts sandy loam,
well mixed by riddling through a coarse sieve.

The pots used should be from 5 to 7 inches in diameter ;
the mould should be placed in them rather loosely to the
rim, the bulb pressed down so that only about one-third of
it remains above the top of the soil ; the pot is then struck
smartly on a bench so as to give the soil the proper degree
of firmness, which will bring it down to an inch or so be-
low the rim of the pot. Water freely, when potted, to
still further settle the soil. The pots should now be placed
in some situation where it is cool and dark, so as to en-
courage a strong development of roots before the bulb
starts at the top ; such a situation may be formed by cov-
ering the pots with four or five inches of sand in a cool
cellar, under the stage of a green-house or in a cold vinery,
still enveloping them in soil or sand. If none of these
conveniences is at hand, the pots may be pitted in a
trench in the open ground, covered over with soil, and
sufficient litter placed above that to keep out the frost,
so that they can be got at when wanted. Hyacinths thus
treated will have made sufficient roots by the 1st of Octo-
ber to admit of their being placed in the light by the middle

124 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

or end of November ; as they begin jto grow, water should
be freely given, so that the earth may be moistened to the
bottom of the pot, for if stinted in water while growing,
the flowers will be smaller and not brilliant in color

HYACINTHS IN GLASSES.

Dark-colored glasses are best, the roots being impatient
of light. The bulb should be placed so as to barely touch
the water. The glasses should be put in the dark until
the roots reach the bottom, when they may be exposed to
the light. The water should be changed once a week ;
care also must be taken that they are not exposed to frost,
else the glasses might be broken and the roots to some
extent injured. Single Hyacinths are better adapted for
glasses than double ones.

The varieties of Hyacinth are as numerous as those of
the Gladiolus, and it would be no help to the reader to
specify them by their name ; the colors embrace many
shades of red, blue, yellow, and white, in "both the single
and double sorts.

TULIPS.

These, like the Hyacinth, have single and double varieties,
but the single sorts are more extensively grown, being much
handsomer than the double varieties. They are divided
into three classes: JBizzares, having a yellow ground
splashed with crimson or purple ; Rose, variegated with
crimson, pink, or scarlet ; and Byllomen, marked with
black, lilac, or purple. These classes are again divided in-
to "flamed " and " feathered;" the flamed having a dark
pointed spot, something like the flame of a candle, the
feathered, a dark-colored edge round its petals, becom-
ing lighter near the margin. The double varieties are
Due Van Ihol, red and yellow ; Gold and Scarlet Pceonyy
Tournesol, scarlet and yellow, Purple Crown, etc.

CAPE BULBS VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 125

CHAPTER XX.

CAPE BULBS— VARIETIES AND CULTURE.
GLADIOLUS.

Foremost among all " Cape Bulbs " (so called from be-
ing natives of the Cape of Good Hope), stands the GLAD-
IOLUS. Perhaps no plant that we have in cultivation has
made such an advance under the hands of the hybridizer
within the past dozen years as this. We can well remem-
ber the time when the species and varieties were confined
to Gr. cardinalis, Q. communis, Gr. blandus, G. ramosus,
and JVatalenis, (or psittacimts,) and also the advent of the
then new hybrid Gandavcnsis, which maybe said to be
the forerunner of all the beautiful varieties we now possess.
These varieties are now almost numberless, varying in ev-
ery shade of their beautiful markings, which range through
all degrees of scarlet, crimson, purple, carmine, rose, yel-
low, and violet, down to white. It is useless to indicate
varieties by name, as the annual improvements being made
will possibly cause those which rank as the best of to-day
to appear of inferior merit in two years hence.

Gladioluses are of the easiest culture ; in this district^
planted out the first week in May, they will be in bloom in
July, and by making successive plantings every two weeks
to the middle of July they can be had in perfection until
the first of November. Although they are not at all par-
ticular about soil, yet, if choice can be had, a sandy loam,
peat, or a soil of decomposed leaves is better suited than
a stiff clayey soil. In any soil the flowers will be larger
and richer in color if the bed be well enriched with ma-
nure. All bulbs of the Gladiolus will flower if over three-
quarters of an inch in diameter ; but of course the larger
the bulb, the larger will be the spike of flowers produced.

126 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

They should be taken up as soon as the stems begin to
wither in fall ; but should the stalk of the late plantings
be yet green, the bulbs should be left adhering to the
stalk until dried, which will tend to ripen off the bulbs.
They may be kept in winter under the stage of the green-
house in a frost-proof cellar or closet, or, in short, in any
place where potatoes can be kept with safety.

AMARYLLIS.

Next to Gladiolus under this head may be named the
Amaryllis. The bulbs may be planted in July, August,
or September, (if in pots not less than eight inches in di-
ameter), in rich, light soil. The flower spike will be de-
veloped in October or November. They are best grown in
pots in this latitude, as they are liable to be injured by
fall frosts if left to flower in the open border. The plants
should be kept growing for some months after flowering,
so as to develop the bulb for future flowering ; but they
should be dried off for some months previous to the time of
planting. The species are :

A. Belladonna. (Belladonna Lily), pale pink.

A, aulica* — Flowers large, green and scarlet.

A. blanda. — Flowers immensely large ; whitish.

At purpurea. — (Vallota), dwarf, bright scarlet.

A* vittata. — Striped, rose and white.

A, formosiSSima. — (Jacobean Lily), rich crimson.

NERINE.

The following, with other species, are plants requiring
treatment similar to the Amaryllis, and well worthy of
general cultivation : .

Nerine undulata, (carmine).

N. curvifolia, (scarlet).

N. SamiensiS, — (Guernsey Lily) (crimson).

CAPE BULBS — VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 127

IXIAS.

A pretty genus of bulbs, of easy culture ; their season
of rest is the dry summer months. The bulbs should be
planted eight or ten in a pot in October, and kept in a green-
house or cold frame, where they will flower abundantly
in February, March, or April, according to the variety.
There are numerous species, of which we name a few of
the most distinct.

• aristata* — Rich shade of rose.
, capitata, — White and blue.
. conic a, — Orange.

croc at a, — Orange yellow.
. maculata. — Spotted.
, patens,— Purple,
viridiilora, — Green, yellow and black.

SPAEAXIS.

A genus allied to Ixia, requiring similar treatment in
every respect. We name six of the most distinct.
S. ancmoiicTilora. — White.
S. bicolor. — Blue and yellow.
S, blanda, — Deep rose.
S, grand i flora, — Large purple.
S« tricolor* — Yellow, purple and crimson.
S, TCrsicolor, — Purple and orange.

ANOMATHECA CRUENTA AND JUNCEA.

These, if planted in pots in January and February, and
turned out in the open borders in May, will bloom abund-
antly during the early summer months.

ORNTTHOGALUil AUREUM.

This species of Ornithogalum is orange and black, and,
with many other species, may be treated like the preced-

128 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE.

ing. They are interesting and attractive plants, the co*-
ors being principally white, yellow, or orange, occasionally
marked with brownish-black spots in the centre of the
flower.

LACHENALIAS.

Lachenalia tricolor (yellow, red and green), L. pendula
(yellow and red), L. quadricolor (yellow, red, purple,
and green), with many other species of similar color, are
pretty little bulbs, with flower stems rarely exceeding nine
inches in height. They are to be potted in October or
November, and kept in green-house temperature, and they
will bloom from January to March.

OXALIS.

A varied and extensive genus, embracing annuals, bulbous
and tuberous rooted plants, and even shrubs. The best
known and most beautiful of the genus is O. versicolor.
The flowers of this variety are beautiful in the extreme,
combining white, yellow, rose and crimson. The bulbs,
which are quite small, should be planted an inch apart, in
pots six or seven inches in diameter, in September or Octo-
ber, in the soil previously named for all bulbs of this de-
scription. As soon as the bulbs have well started to grow,
they should be freely watered, and in ordinary green-house
temperature will flower profusely from December to April.
O. canescens (purple), O. cuneifolia (white), O. flava
(yellow), and O. multiflora (lilac), require similar treat-
ment. The summer flowering or bedding varieties, of
which there is a large number, should be kept dry in win-
ter and planted out in May, and they will bloom in profu-
sion during the summer and fall months; of this class we
name O. JSowiei (crimson), O. carnosa (yellow), O.
crispa (white), O. floribunda (rose), O. gldbra (purple),
and 0. hirta (lilac).

BABIANA.

A genus somewhat resembling the Ixias in the form of

CAPE BULBS — VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 129

the flower, but having in most of the species downy leaves ;
the treatment in all respects is similar to Ixias or Spar-
axis. The species are numerous. The following six are
named as types : B. bicolor (blue and white), IB. rubro-
cyanea (blue and crimson), B. spathacea (light blue), B.
sulphurea (yellow), B. tubata (red and yellow), B.
Thuribergii (white and red).

H^EMAXTHUS.

A genus allied to the Amaryllis, with bulbs of immense
size, producing flowers of all shades from white to crim-
son, but rather coarse in outline. Culture same as for the
Amaryllis.

TIGRIDIA, OK TIGER FLOWER.

This is not a " Cape Bulb," being a native of Mexico,
but as it resembles in its habits many of that class we
place it here. Like the Gladiolus, successive plantings
every two weeks from May to July will give a continuous
bloom during the summer months until cut off by frost in
autumn. Its treatment in other respects may be that of
the Gladiolus, only that greater care is necessary in keep-
ing the bulbs in winter. After being dried, put them in
some dry place, not too hot, where they will not freeze.

The Tiger Flower is one of the most beautiful of all bulbs,
and although it has been in cultivation for nearly three-
quarters of a century, has never been so generally grown
as it deserves to be, probably from the difficulty of keep-
ing the bulbs in winter.

Its gaudy, tulip-like flowers are yellow, spotted with
crimson, orange, spotted violet red, and varying shades of
these colors in the different sorts,

Tigridia conchiflora. Tigridia lutea.

Tigridia pavonia. Tigridia violacea.

130 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

CHAPTER XXI.

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.

The demand for flowers in winter has steadily kept pace
with the supply, even in the city of New York, where per-
haps half a million of dollars has been invested in stock
and in green-houses for that special purpose within the past
five years. Perhaps no place surpasses, if it equals this, in
the extent of its flower business or in the systematic man-
ner in which it is carried on. The variety of plants used
for this purpose is not so extensive as might be supposed ;
the following, comprising the leading sorts, are named in
the order of their value and importance for cut flowers.

1st. Camellias, Carnations, Violets ; 2nd. Roses, Tube-
roses, Double Primroses; 3rd. Bouvardias, Stevias, Eu-
patoriums; 4th. Heliotropes, Poinsettia pulcherrima, Eu-
phorbia jacquiniflora ; 5th. Stock Gillies, Begonia Sander-
sonii and others, Fuchsia speciosa ; 6th. Jessamines, Bal-
sams, Bignonias of all sorts; 7th. Hyacinths, Mignonette,
Sweet Alyssum; 8th. Azaleas, Heaths and Ageratum.

We will give descriptions of the manner of growing the
plants above enumerated, which will be more or less ex-
tended as the importance of the variety seems to require.

CAMELLIAS.

Camellias are the most important of all flowers used in
the construction of baskets or bouquets, and hence are
placed first on the list. They are now grown to an
extent truly surprising for that purpose in all our large
cities and their surrounding neighborhoods. Philadel-
phia, until recently, was the great Camellia mart,
but of late years two or three establishments in the
vicinity of New York are making such rapid strides
that the Philadelphia florists cannot long compete with
those of New York.

CULTURE OF WETTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 131

The advance of the New York establishments is due,
without doubt, to their more rapid manner of propaga-
tion. While the Philadelphia florist contents himself with
the slow but sure practice of inarching, the New York
Camellia-grower is making nearly a do^en plants to his
one, by the method, equally safe to him, of grafting.

The process of inarching the Camellia, or grafting by
approach, is usually performed in July, by slicing off a
thin portion of the stock and a corresponding portion of
the variety to be inarched. The slice pared off should
be deep enough to take a portion of the wood off with the
bark, and of about two inches in length ; the parts should
be so joined that at least one side shall closely meet, and
there be tied moderately firm, to keep them in place
until they have grown together.

If done in July, the part inarched may be cut from the
parent stem in October.

Grafting the Camellia, in our opinion, is just as much
an improvement over inarching as growing, a grape-vine
or rose from a cutting is over the ungardener-like practice
of growing it from layers. I am aware that in many hands
the grafting of the Camellia has proved a failure, not so much
due to anything wrong in the way the mechanical part
of the operation was performed as to the wrong time it
was done. The best time in our climate to graft the Ca-
mellia is from the 15th of August to the 15th of September ;
at such times the sap is in just the right condition to form
the proper callosity to cause an adherence of the parts.
Figure 38 shows the operation, which is of the simplest
kind ; the main point to be looked to being the accurate
junction of the parts, at one side at least, and careful tying '
up, to keep the graft in place. After the operation, the
next point of importance is the place in which the plants
are put. It will be understood that the graft is in some
respects analogous to a cutting, being a detached part of a
plant with nothing to support it as yet, and that the same

132

PRACTICAL FLOEICULTUEE.

points to be observed in the rooting of a cutting must be
attended to in the graft ; hence we place them in a position
where they will be safe from a high temperature and a dry
atmosphere, which would be as quickly fatal to the graft
as to the cutting. The best place, then, for Camellias in
process of grafting is in a shaded frame or green-house,
where the lowest temperature possible at that season can

Fig. 33. — GltAFTING THE CAMELLIA.

be kept without allowing a current of air to play directly on
the plants. Where the operation is done extensively, a
frame is made inside the green-house in which the plants
are placed for the purpose of avoiding currents of air.

It is quite a nice point to regulate the due proportion of
water ; as the stock is partially cut down, with but few
leaves left to elaborate the sap, it follows that only as
much water should be given as will keep the plants from
becoming too dry ; for this reason, if there is danger to be
apprehended from rain or other sources of moisture, the

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 133

pots are laid on their sides, to prevent the soil from getting
excessively wet.

The stocks on which the Camellia is inarched or graft-
ed are raised from cuttings of the single or strong-grow-
ing double varieties. Many of the double sorts make as
good plants raised from cuttings as by being grafted.
This is not the case with the double white, which is the
most valuable of all for winter flowers. The cuttings are
made from the ripened young wood, and are treated in
the usual way, (See chapter on Propagation.)

The Camellia is not at all particular as regards soil, and
may be seen luxuriating in thoso of very different charac?
ters. The great points are a humid atmosphere^ a temper-
ature in winter not exceeding 50°, in summer weather
keeping them out of doors or in the green-house, and partial
protection from the full rays of the sun.

Large numbers are now being planted out in green-
houses specially erected for the purpose ; in this way they
grow with great luxuriance, and the flowers are usually
finer than when grown in pots. Caution must be used
to not stimulate a second growth in summer by undue
watering, else they may make another growth to the des-
truction of the flower buds. The Camellia cannot safely
be " forced " to produce early flowers by applying heat in
fall or winter, but to have flowers early the forcing must
be done in spring, while the plants are making their growth ;
at this time they will stand a temperature of 60 or 65 de-
grees at night with safety. Kept warm at this season,
the buds set early, and produce early flowers in fall and
winter. By thus forcing in spring for two seasons, the
greater part of the crop of Camellia flowers will be ob-
tained by the holidays, at which season they are most
valued.

Of the varieties used for cut flowery the whites are those
prized most ; of these we have Double White and Fim-
briata as the early sorts, and Candidissima as the late.

134 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

\

Of the other white sorts, none flower abundantly enough
to make them profitable, except Lady Hume, which, how-
ever, is tinged with blush. It is somewhat singular that
though the Camellia has been extensively cultivated for
thirty years, we have no white varieties originating
in all that time that have equalled these four sorts in
their peculiar qualities. Of colored sorts we have some
hundreds ; prominent among them and of different styles
of marking and color, are Imbricata, crimson and white,
Landrethii, bright rose; Benneyii, crimson striped white;
Wilderii, scarlet crimson; Sacco Nora, pink marbled
rose ; Downing, deep carmine blotched white ; Duchess
of Orleans, striped pink and white; Conspersa, carmine
striped ; Heine des Fleurs, dark crimson.

In market the value of the flowers and even plants of
the white sorts is double that of the colored. The average
wholesale price of White Camellia flowers in New York
from December to April may be $15 per 100; colored
sorts do not bring half that price, and are in little demand.

CARNATIONS.

"Next to Violets we name Carnations in point of value as
winter flowering plants, though in this there may be a dif-
ference of opinion ; but with us they are grown certainly
to a larger extent, and have a money value surpassing all
others except those previously named.

The cultivation of the Carnation is very simple. It is
rooted from cuttings at any time from October to April,
and as the plant is almost hardy, it may be planted out
with safety in the open ground in early spring as soon as
cabbage, lettuce, or any other plant of that nature. Many,
for want of this knowledge, keep Carnations in the green-
house or pits until such time as tender plants are set out
in May, thereby not only having the useless trouble of
taking care of them, but depriving them of six weeks of a
season well adapted to their growth.

CULTURE OP WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 135

They are best planted out in beds of six rows, nine
inches apart, and the same distance between the plants,
with eighteen-inch alleys between the beds. The Carna-
tion is very impatient of a wet soil, and care should be
taken that the land be made dry by draining or otherwise.
As the Carnations grow they throw up flower shoots, which
must be cut off all through the season, until about the 1st
or 15th of September. If the plants are wanted for winter
flowering, this cutting back of the flower shoots induces a
dwarf and stocky growth, which is very desirable in the
Carnation. If they are grown in large quantities for win-
ter flowering, by far the best way is to plant them on the
benches of the green-house, at about the same distance as
they were growing outside, any time in October ; but if only
a few are required, to mix in with a general collection of
plants, it is more convenient to grow them in pots, so that
they may be moved about as may be necessary. Of the
varieties grown, though we have some hundreds, as in
the case of Roses, we have only a few suited for winter
flowering. Of these, so far, the most productive is La
Purite, a deep carmine variety ; next, a variegated variety
of the preceding. Among whites, Edwardsii and De-
graw take the lead. In yellows, we have Astoria and
De Fontana, but these fall far short of the others in pro-
ductiveness of flowers.

The flowers of La Purite and other colored sorts sell in
New York at $2 per 100, the whites usually at 84 per 100.
Even at these low prices they are a fairly profitable crop,
as the bulk of the flowers is given previous to the middle
of January, when the forced plants, being of but little use,
are usually thrown out to make room for other plants. Al-
though the Carnation is nearly a hardy plant and may be
kept anywhere in winter in a cold green-house or pit, even
if occasionally slightly frozen, yet it is also susceptible of
being forced freely. We usually keep our houses, when
we are forcing for flowers, at from 50° to 60° at night.

136 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

VIOLETS.

The demand for Yiolet flowers, during the winter
months in all our large cities is yearly increasing in a
wonderful degree. For the New York market alone it is
estimated that two acres, or nearly 100,000 square feet, of
glass is now used for growing Violets alone ; some grow-
ers make it an exclusive business and grow nothing
else. It is not always a success with every one attempt-
ing it ; hence the price has kept steadily up to the highest
rates of past years. To those who are successful, the busi-
ness is always a profitable one. The following brief but prac-
tical notes are from Messrs. Norton Bros., of Dorchester,
Mass., who have been among the most successful of any in
the trade in forcing Violets during the winter months.

" The variety used is the double blue Neapolitan. We
separate the plants to one good crown, with roots, and
plant out in the open ground about the 20th of April, at
distances of about one foot each way. Nothing is done
to them until the first week in September, except to keep
them well hoed and clear of weeds. They are then
thinned out to six or eight crowns, selecting such as are
the strongest and taking off all the runners and weak
shoots, the principle being exactly the same as in preparing
good stools of strawberries for fruit. About the last week
in September the plants are dug up with balls and planted
on the shelves of the green-house in six or eight inches of
well-enriched, fresh loam.

Shading and watering are necessary if the weather is
clear and dry, and, until the end of October, air should be
given freely. The temperature at night should average
not more than 50 degrees. As the plants begin to
grow,, all yellow leaves, weeds, and runners, should be
carefully removed, so as to admit air and light to the
flowers. From a green-house 75 feet long with a table or

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 137

bench room of 8 feet wide, we sold last year our crop of

Violets in Boston at the following rates :

October averaged $4.25 per day, price, 75c. per 100.
November " 4.75 " $1.00 "

December " 5.25 " 1.25 «

January " 6.00 1.25 u

February " 8.75 " 1.25 ' "

March ' " 10.25 " 1.00 "

The aggregate for six months exceeding $1,000."

This was a most excellent result, and the crop would

Fig 39.— KING OF VIOLETS.

have paid well at half these rates, which, however, arq
quite double those of New York. Besides, it will be ob-

138 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

served that the date only extended to March, after which
the glass, no doubt, was employed nearly equally well by
Messrs. Norton in the growing of bedding plants, to meet
their sales of such articles in May.

There are quite a number of varieties of sweet Violets,
but the double blue Neapolitan thus far seems the one
most suitable for forcing. The other varieties we name
in the order of their merit.

Schoenbrun.— Single blue, very prolific.

King of Violets, — Very large double blue flowers, one
inch in diameter.

Queen Of Violets, — Blush white, very double.

Double White Neapolitan, — Double white, but rather
shy bloomer.

All these are about equal in fragrance.

ROSES.

Our system of forcing Roses for winter will be found in
the chapter on Rose culture. We will merely refer to the
prices paid and the relative value of the Rose as a profit-
able plant for that purpose. The price ranges from $3 per
100 buds in November until Christmas, at which date,
and until the holidays are past they average $8 per 100,
but again fall off to $4 or $5, at which rates they continue
until May or June. It will be understood that these are
the wholesale rates ; at retail they bring nearly treble these
prices. Considering the preparation necessary, we con-
sider Roses less profitable at our trade rates than many
other plants grown.

TUBEROSES.

The methods of forcing will be found fully detailed in
the chapter on the Tuberose, and we will merely say here
that in our own experience the Tuberose, as a plant to force
for winter sale, has proved one of the most profitable of all

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 139

that we have tried for that purpose. The crop, even at
what may be termed the low rate of $4 per 100 florets,
has netted us $1,000 for one of our 11x100 feet struc-
tures, and that, too, during December, from dry roots
planted in August.

DOUBLE WHITE CHINESE PRIMROSE.

This ranks high a^ a winter flowering plant, being pro-
ductive in a wonderful degree, as many as a thousand
florets often being picked from one plant. It is of easy
culture during the fall, winter, and spring months, but re-
quires careful handling during summer. We find it
thrives best in summer in a cool green-house, having the
sashes lightly painted with whitewash, — say from June 1st
to November 1st ; but as fall advances, the whitewash
should be partially rubbed off, to accomodate the lessened
force of the sun's rays at that season. By the 1st of Novem-
ber it should be all cleaned off. It is always grown in pots
of a size to correspond to the size or degree of vigor of the
plant. The soil used contains about one half part leaf
mould or decayed refuse hops. It being a very fine rooted
plant it requires the mechanical condition to be soft and
easily penetrated by its thread-like roots. It may be grown
in a temperature varying at night from 50 to 60 degrees.
It is usually propagated by dividing the roots, though this
is but a slow way of increase, and by no means so well fitted
to make healthy plants, as by making cuttings of the side
shoots in the usual way. Cuttings taken off in March will
root in four weeks, and by fall, with ordinary care, make
plants large enough to produce an average of 500 florets
during the winter.

The average price for the winter is fifty cents per 100
florets. There are now some four or five double colored
varieties, with colors ranging from light rose to crimson ;
they are yet, however, quite scarce here. Their culture
and propagation are identical with that of the double white.

140 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

BOUVARBIAS.

Bouvardias are grown in immense quantities, occupying
an area nearly as large as that of the monthly Carnations
in our green-houses. They are mainly propagated by
pieces of the roots (see Propagation) in April, and when
these have thrown up a growth of 2 or 3 inches they are
potted in two-inch pots and planted out in the open
ground at a distance of 9 or 10 inches apart, in the latter
part of May. Some of the varieties, such as Hendersonii
and Wilsonii, being " sports," that is, what Darwin calls
" bud variations," seem to have the variation in the shoots
and flowers only, and not extending to the roots ; hence in
the case of Hendersonii, which is a sport from the Car-
mine variety Hogarth, but with almost white flowers, if
we propagate it from pieces of the root the flowers will be
of the carmine color of the original Hogarth.

In such cases, to perpetuate these rare and valuable va-
rieties, recourse must be had to propagation by cuttings,
which is best done, however, from June to September, as
the Bouvardia, being a hot-house plant, grows and de-
velops roots most freely in a high temperature. The plants
that have been put out in the open ground in May will
have grown to a fine, bushy form by September 1st, if due
attention has been given to nipping off the tops every two
weeks during summer. By this date they should be taken
up and potted ; if possible, they should be lifted with balls
of earth adhering to the roots, as they wilt very easily,
and the plants require great care in liftjng. In any
case, it is necessary to shade and freely water for six or
seven days before exposing them to full sun. They had
better be stood in the open ground or in a cold frame, after
being potted, rather than put in a green-house, as it is very
necessary that they be fully exposed to light and air for
as long a time as possible, before placing them in their
winter quarters in the green-house. They should be put

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS.

141

into the green-house, or some place where they can be
sheltered by sashes, before there is danger to be appre-
hended from frost, as the Bouvardia is a very tender plant,
and will be injured by a very slight degree of frost. They

Fig. 40. — BOUVARDIA HENDERSONII.

may either be grown in pots, or planted out from the pots
on to the benches, as we do with Carnations and many
other things. Our own practice, as we have before said,
is to set all such plants out in the benches, as the flowers

142 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

produced are much finer, owing to their having a more
regular condition of moisture at the roots ; besides, this
gives a greater area for the roots to run in. We have
said the Bouvardia is a hot-house plant ; therefore if flowers
are wanted in the early part of winter, the temperature at
night should range from 55 to 60 degrees. The leading
varieties of Bouvardia are,

Hogarth, — Deep carmine.

" Henderson!!.— French white. Figure 40..

Leiantha* — Scarlet, yellow anthers.
" floribunda, — Orange scarlet.
" grandiflora. — Flame color, very large.
" Splcndens. — Crimson scarlet.

Longiflora. — Pure white, of difficult growth.

Grandiflora . — Pure white, jasmine fragrance.

Nothing that is grown is more productive of flowers,
and a house filled with the different varieties in full bloom
has a dazzling effect.

The price paid by the trade averages about $1.50 per
100 trusses.

STEVIAS AND EUPATORIUMS.

Stevias and Eupatoriuras are used for winter, and are
white-flowering plants, of no particular beauty in them-
selves, but admirably adapted from their feathery-like
sprays, for mixing in with bright-colored flowers. They
are of easy propagation, and being of rampant growth,
had better always be grown in pots throughout the sum-
mer— plunging the pots to the rim in the usual way, to
save watering. They can all be grown to flower in a low
green-house temperature, and as many of them bloom
rather early in the winter, every expedient is used to keep
them as cold as possible, without freezing.

StCVia COmpacta flowers during November.

Stevia SCirata flowers in December.

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 143

Eupatorium arboreum flowers from November to Jan-
uary, by retarding portions in cold frames.
Eupatorium salicifolium flowers throughout January ;
Eupatorium elegans from February to March.
The flowers rate at about the same price as Bouvardia.

HELIOTROPES.

The manner of growing the Heliotrope for winter flowers
is nearly identical with that of the Stevia or Eupatorium,
during the summer months ; only, like the Bouvardia, it
requires heat to bring the flowers out in profusion in win-
ter. The varieties best adapted for forcing are :
Jane Mesmer, Oculata,

Boule de Neige, Surprise,

The Standard. Elegant issinia,

The Heliotrope flowers without intermission during the
entire season, if kept growing.

Value about the same as the Bouvardia.

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA.

The Poinsettia pulcherrima is grown from cuttings of
the green or of the ripened wood in April or May, and
shifted as required during the summer, plunging the pots
in beds in the open ground. It must be placed in winter
quarters before the weather has become cold enough to
chill it, as it is a tender tropical plant, and requires a hot-
house temperature of not less than 60° for its full develop-
ment.

Grown in this heat, it is a plant of the most gorgeous
beauty, the bracts or leaves surrounding the flower aver-
aging, on well-grown plants, one foot in diameter; grown
as a hot-house plant, it is in full perfection at the holidays,
and is now largely used for decoration. Many thousand
heads are sold in New York annually, at an average of
$25 per 100.

144 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Euphorbia jaquiniflora and splendens are plants of the
same family as Poinsettia and require similar treatment in
all respects. The former, from its style of growth, is much
used for wreathing, but neither of them are as yet exten-
sively grown.

BEGONIAS — OF SORTS.

The Begonias cultivated for winter blooming have
drooping Fuchsia-like flowers of different shades from
white to scarlet, and are used to a considerable extent as
a " fringe flower " for sides of baskets and vases. San-
dersonii and Fuchsioides are the best, having bright
scarlet flowers produced in great abundunce, Carnea, a
rich pink, and Marmorata, a flesh-colored sort, are also
desirable.

FUCHSIAS.

There are but few varieties of Fuchsias adapted for
continuous blooming in winter, but these are very
desirable, and whether grown as ornamental specimens
for the conservatory or for cutting for flowers, they are
much valued.

The best three in our experience are F. bianca margin-
ata, a white-sepaled variety with crimson corolla ; F. spe-
ciosa, flesh-colored sepals with scarlet corolla ; and F. ser-
ratifolia, greenish sepals with bright orange scarlet corolla.
This last is of a particularly bright and unique color, differ-
ing entirely from all other Fuchsias. Two-year-old plants
bloom in the greatest profusion, plants one foot in diame-
ter giving upwards of 100 flowers, which are much
esteemed for their rare color.

JASMINUM GRANDIFLORUM.

This is grown to the best advantage by permanent plant-
"ing out in the green-house, and training to a rafter or trel-

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 145

lis. Its pure white flowers and delicious fragrance make
it much prized at all seasons.

DOUBLE BALSAMS.

If sown in August and potted into 6 or 7-inch pots,
in light, a-arm hot-houses, these will flower until the holi-
days.

BMNONIA VENUSTA AND JASMINOIDES.

These are ^reen-house climbers, which only do well as
permanent rafter plants, usually not flowering until they
are two or three years old ; by that time, however, they
usually cover the rafters to a length of 20 or 30 feet. B.
venusta is bright orange; B. jasminoides is purple and
white, and its flowers are formed in immense clusters and
are extensively used during winter. The colors of both,
although entirely different, are also unlike our usual colors
of flowers.

HYACINTHS.

Hyacinths are used quite extensively in the late winter
months, but are not generally obtainable in good condi-
tion before February, as, to give them justice, they re-
quire to be kept a considerable time at a rather low tem-
perature to form their roots. Potted in September or Oc-
tober and plunged so as to exclude the bulb from the
light — in a cellar or under the stage of the green-house, or
any similar place— they will form roots in abundance in six
or eight weeks, when they may be removed and placed on
the stage of the green-house to flower.

MIGNONETTE AND SWEET ALYSSUM.

Sown in August in a <3old frame and thinned out so
that the plants will stand 6 or 8 inches apart, and left
without the covering of the sash until frost is expected in
September or October, these will flower abundantly until

7

146 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

January, if covered up by sash and mats so as to exclude
the frost, or they may be sown in August or September
and grown in pots and flowered in a cold green-house
during the winter months.

AZALEAS.

These are grown to a considerable extent as specimen
green-house plants, propagated from the young wood in
March ; potted and planted out in the open ground in May
they make fine plants by fall, but most of the varieties do
not bloom freely until the second year. The Azalea is a
plant having very fine roots, and consequently requires a
soil composed largely of leaf mould or peat to grow to the
best advantage. There are now several hundred sorts,
many of them of great beauty. They are not considered a
suitable plant for bouquets, being too loose and flimsy in
texture, but are used to some extent in baskets and vases of
flowers, particularly the compact and white flowering va-
rieties.

HEATHS.

A few of the free-growing winter flowering varieties of
Heaths are well fitted for bouquets; of these Erica gracilis
(carmine,) 23. persaluta-alba, E. vernalis (pink,) and E.
actcea (white) are the best. They are best grown from
cuttings of the young wood in March, and if planted out
in the open ground in May, in light, sandy loam, will make
plants of a size large enough to flower in winter. They
are not extensively used however, being less profitable
than many other things. The Heath is justly considered
as one of the finest of all hard-wooded green-house plants
in Europe, but most of the varieties are very difficult to
grow in our hot summers, so that all those who have
attempted to imitate the splendid specimens seen in
the Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh or Dublin, or at the
Crystal Palace of London, h^ye completely failed.

CULTURE OF WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 147

PLANTS USED FOR FOLIAGE.

In the formation of cut flowers into bouquets, etc., the
leaves form an indispensable part. In trimming the edges
of baskets, Camellia leaves are much used, also CissusjUs-

Fig. 41.— CHRYSANTHEMUM LACINIATUM.

color, a climbing hot-house plant, with brownish-crimson
leaves splashed with white ; it requires a temperature of
at least 60 degrees in winter, and never develops its rich

148 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

coloring unless at a high temperature. Another most
graceful plant, now very extensively used for its foliage, is
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides (Smilax ;) it is unsurpassed
for festooning, its wavy stems and glossy leaves being
admirably adapted for that purpose. It is of late years
'considered indispensable to mix in with natural flowers
when used for the hair ; it is also a climbing plant, attain-
ing the height of 20 feet in a season's growth. Rose,
Lemon, and Apple-scented Geraniums, are used in mixing
with flowers in making them up in the way described
in the following chapter.

JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM.

Chrysanthemum laciniatum, the Japanese Fringe Flow-
er, (fig. 41,) is comparatively new to our collections, it
having been introduced with several others in 1865. As
a Chrysanthemum merely, there is nothing remarkable
about it, except the fringed edging to the petals ; but last
year its winter-flowering qualities were discovered by one
of the leading flower-growers for the New York market ;
its blooming so late gives it great value for florists' pur-
poses. The flowers are double, nearly three inches in di-
ameter, delicately fringed, and of the purest white. It is
this season largely grown for winter bouquets, etc., by
most of our florists.

CHAPTER XXII.

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, BASKETS, &c., &c.

The following chapter on making up flowers into
bouquets, etc., and descriptive of the various styles now in
use in New York and vicinity, has been written by James
H. Park, of Brooklyn, L. I. Mr. Park's taste and judge-

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 149

mcnt in this business have given him an enviable reputa-
tion, and my readers, many of whom are deeply interested
,on this subject, will, I am certain, heartily join with me in
thanking him for his clear, comprehensive, and unreserved

o

account.

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, BASKETS, ETC.

With the earliest civilization of our race, flowers began
to be cherished, and employed for decorative purposes ;
nor is their arrangement in bouquets a modern art,although
its practice is of comparatively recent and marvellous
growth amongst us.

Many people decry the artificial arrangement of flowers,
but how shall we otherwise use them to advantage?
The moment we begin to tie them together we leave nature,
and ought to do so only to study art. In their simplest
arrangement, form and color must be studied to produce
the best effect, and whoever best accomplishes this, will
surely succeed in displaying his flowers to the best ad-
vantage.

Bouquet making is (or at least ought to be) the art of
arranging flowers. Who has not seen bunches of beau-
tiful flowers cut from the garden and tied up in the least
artistic fashion with the most stupid result ? And who
that has attended fashionable weddings or parties has not
occasionally seen a large bouquet or basket in which the
quantity of good flowers was its only merit, where a mass
of flowers were muddled together in a most incongruous
fashion, equally removed from both nature and art ? Nor is
this fault that of the tyro in bouquet making only ; many
who practice it as an occupation have not learned the first
principles of tasteful arrangement. Yet great allowance
may be made for the bouquet makers, when we consider
how much like labor their work becomes. Any one, try-
ing always to execute this work with taste, would scarcely

150 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

accomplish the amount of work required of him in any
thriving establishment, a great part of which is of
necessity done hurriedly; and as the variety of flowers is
so great and constantly changing with the seasons, and
their colors so varied, it is only by trying them in various
combinations that the best results can be obtained. Few
are willing to pay for this kind of work. Many a
gardener, who is not too well occupied in winter, might
make a pleasing study of this little art, and thereby add
to his own pleasure and profit, as well as those of his em-
ployers.

Probably the simplest, easiest, and commonly the most
desirable, method of using cut flowers is arranging them in
vases. The more loosely and unconfused, the better.
Crowding is particularly to be avoided, and to ac-
complish this readily a good base of greens is required, to
keep the flowers apart. This filling up is a very important
part in all bouquet making, and the neglect of it is the great-
est stumbling-block of the uninitiated. Spiked and droop-
ing flowers, with branches and sprays of delicate green, are
indispensable to the grace and beauty of a vase bouquet.
To preserve the individuality of flowers, which is of the
greatest importance, the placing those of similar size and
form together ought to be avoided. Thus Heliotrope,
Stevia, Eupatorium, or Alyssum, when combined lose their
distinctive beauty ; but, if placed in juxtaposition to larger
flowers, and those of other forms, their beauty is heighten-
ed by contrast. It may be stated as a rule, that small
flowers should never be massed together. Large flowers
with green leaves or branches may be used to advantage
alone, but a judicious contrast of forms is most effect-
ive.

Nothing is so strikingly beautiful on a refreshment
table as a handsome centre-piece of flowers. All the airy
castles of the confectioner are passed over by the eye,
which is at once arrested and refreshed by the brilliant

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 151

beauty of the products of the garden or conservatory ; and
we wonder how any person of taste, who possesses the
means, should ever fail to have flowers on his table when
entertaining friends. Considering the effect, flowers on the
table, like plants in the garden, are certainly the cheapest
of ornaments. There are those who would have nothing
upon their table but what they can eat or drink ; like a
gentleman who once employed the writer of this to lay
out a new garden, and objected to having roses planted by
the fences, saying very earnestly " Ah, yes ! I suppose
they are very pretty, but then, you see, we couldn't get
anything to eat from them. Guess we won't have any of
them things." Luckily for the well-being of poor human-
ity such desperately practical men are not very numer-
ous. An epergne filled with flowers forms the most ef-
fective of table bouquets. Fora large dinner table this
bouquet holder ought to be from two to three feet in
height, with three, four, or five branches, and if the table
is very large, a smaller epergne at each end will add to
the effect. For a less pretentious table an epergne twelve
to eighteen inches in height may be used to equal advant-
age. The superiority of an epergne consists in its raising
the flowers to a height sufficient to gain their full effect,
whereas forms of flowers built from a lower vase lose
much by the interference of surrounding dishes. With a
handsome epergne and the flowers arranged in nearly semi-
circular outline, pointed with two or more handsome
flower-spikes, and diversified with here and there a fine
fern leaf and other sprays of lively green, with a few fine
rose-buds and spikelets of heath, acacia, or similarly form-
ed flowers, projecting from the main body to give ease and
grace, and with a profusion of bright green or variegated
foliage and flowers in drooping sprays around, the best re-
sults may be attained. For such a bouquet a fair propor-
tion of large flowers is indispensable, and an excess of
projecting points is to be avoided as confusing. Table

152

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

bouquets, made in the fashion of the confectioner's stiff
pyramids of maecafonies, are wretched decorations,
and very discreditable to all connected with them Bet-
ter, a thousand times, to have half the quantity of flowers
decently arranged.

Baskets of flowers for decorating parlor tables, man-
tels, <fcc., ought to be somewhat in keeping with their
surroundings ; a rough bouquet, adapted to grace a rus-
tic table at a picnic, would not be in as good taste here
as something finer and more neatly put together. Oval
and round are the only permissible forms for flower

Fig. 42.— BASKET OF FLOWERS.

baskets ; the flowers ought also to be rounding in form,
yet not too much so. We give an illustration, (fig. 42,)
as the easiest method of conveying our idea of the
best outline. The basket shown here is also one of
the best, but whether high or low, the open round or
oval basket is vory effective. Handled baskets we deem
out of place as parlor ornaments, having doubtless been
originally designed to carry ; the handle invariably inter-
feres with the general effect, and can only be tolerated

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 153

when beautifully trimmed with flowers and fine greens.
For parlor decoration, high stands, with or without
branches, small, pendent baskets, or hanging baskets of
flowers, or of plants with rich flower sprays hung around
them, are frequently used to advantage. Balls of flowers,
like hanging baskets, are best displayed from the centre
of an arch or folding doors, and with festoons of flowers
looped from centre to sides the effect is greatly height-
ened. Festoons of green suspended chain-like from the
top of a plain chandelier to each light, with festoons of
flowers from the centre underneath to the same points,

Fig. 43. — HAND-BOUQUET.

make one of the gayest of floral decorations. Wreaths
of flowers or of bright green leaves, or of both, around
circular or oval framed portraits may be used on spe-
cial occasions to advantage. A ball, or hanging bou-
quet, loosely arranged, suspended clear, in -front of a high
mirror, and with rich festoons of flowers, from the
same, point looped to each side, makes a splendid dis-
play.

The circle must be taken as the line of beauty in all
bouquet making, apart from those loosely arranged.
Whether it is a table or hand bouquet, or basket, there

154 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

must be a certain rounding of outlines, the segment of
a circle. Hand bouqets admit of the most formal ar-
rangement of flowers, and the tendency of all cultivated
tastes in this direction must be admitted as proof, that
for this purpose something more than a mere bunch of
flowers is required. The American, French, or English
lady never figures, even in a book of fashion, in evening
dress,holding a bunch of flowers or any odd shaped bouquet.
Crude forms, pyramids, balls, &c., can never supersede
the slightly rounding bouquet, (fig. 43,) which is likely
to continue for all time the true form, like the parasol,
which might have been its prototype. Ball bouquets
would be handsome enough, but for the handles, which
completely destroy the line of beauty. As for those abor-
tions of the same form pointed with rose-buds, they are
only fitted to convey to moderns an idea of the ancient
weapon of war, that was swung by a chain or thong, and
which Sir Walter Scott describes the Baron of Smail-
holm as carrying :

"At his saddle girth hung a good steel spertfie
Full ten pounds weight and more."

After form, the most important point in bouquet making
is the arrangement of colors. The incongruous mixing of
these in a great measure destroys the effect of the finest
flowers, while the more delicately the coloring is blend-
ed and the more strikingly contrasted, the more perfect
and pleasing is the result. Let any one who doubts this,
compare a bouquet of the best flowers in which many col-
ors are freely used, with one made of pink shading deli-
cately from the centre to blush and white, or vice versa,
and with a few tiny points of bright scarlet or violet
tastefully set amidst the white.

The arrangement of colors in simple geometrical forms
is greatly preferable to a succession of distinct rings in a
bouquet. The ribbon pattern is very pretty in a flower
bed> but in very questionable taste in bouquet making ;

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 155

a bordering of white, blue, or pink, may be generally used
with good effect. Handsome leaves of the geranium or
camellia (the latter is preferable for its brightness and
durability) alternating with fine sprays of green, delicate
flower scapes, or spikelets of heaths, form a fitting edging
for a hand bouquet. A fine hand bouquet may be made
with smooth outline and relieved by a few delicate points
of green or fine leaves. In filling out a hand bouquet, half-
dried moss is preferable to bouquet green, as it can be used
more readily to keep the flowers apart without so much
increase of weight and stem ; a light backing of green,
concave underneath, finishes the bouquet. White lute-
string ribbon wound around the handle and tied in a bow
is preferable to tinfoil.

Judging the merits of bouquets, etc., has always been a
very difficult point amongst gardeners and florists, nor
is this to be wondered at when exhibitors and judges
have each their own notions of excellence, various as the
men themselves. It is only by comparison that the
merits of any article can be well judged, and the best con-
noisseurs of arranged flowers are not to be found amongst
gardeners, who have few opportunities of comparing such
things, but amongst the lovers of flowers, the men and wom-
en of cultivated tastes who, having leisure and means, find
pleasure in studying their merits, and thus set up for them-
selves a higher standard of excellence. An unskilled
person set to judge a collection of pansy flowers proba-
bly would not arrive at the same conclusions, as one who
judged the same flowers by the standard rules which
hold the circle, the thick and smooth petal, the sharply
defined eye, and distinct division of colors, as the only
true marks of perfection. A hand bouquet may have its
colors inlaid like mosaic with very good effect, and if the
coloring be well toned and contrasted, such a bouquet
made with skill, like prize pansies, would compel any one
who saw it to admir?, although many would object to it

156 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE,

as stiff and unnatural, which it certainly is, but a hand
some bouquet nevertheless.

There are some flowers whose colors repel all
close communication with others ; such are the purple,
ruddy purple, and most of the striped carnations, all
roses with even a tinge of purple, (and this includes most
of the hardy roses, as well as others,) in fact, there is
scarcely any shade of purple which can be used to advant-
age in bouquet making. Excepting blue like that of the
violet, there is scarcely any shade of blue even, which can
be advantageously used in a closely arranged bouquet, and
the violet, beautiful though it be, is a very ineffective
flower by gaslight; still more so is the favorite helio-
trope. Many shades of yellow are harsh, yet some may
be used with good effect in bouquets, particularly when
toned with blue; for example, the racemes of acacia pubes-
cens, either in bud or blossom, as a bordering fringe are
exceedingly beautiful and put to shame that over-fastid-
ious taste which rejects all yellow flowers. Even estab-
lished rules on colors fail to guide us always in the
arrangement of flowers. Artists tell us that blue and green
should never come together, yet the violet can have no
more beautiful setting than its own green leaves, while
dark blue flowers show to equal advantage in their darker
green foliage. In Nature's own setting, all flowers are be-
coming; it is only by placing them at a disadvantage
that they can ever appear otherwise; but so infinite are their
shades and forms that their perfect arrangement in bou-
quets must ever be a work of taste and skill. We would
not assert that bouquet makers, like poets, " are born, not
made," yet we know that many in this, as in other call-
ings, are, and ever will be, utterly unfitted for the work
they undertake.

Funeral flowers are now a very important part of the
florist's trade. Ten years ago, ten dollars' worth of flowers
were more rare at a fun oral in New York than one hund-

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 157

red now, and sometimes one funeral demands a thousand
dollars' worth. The wreath and crescent wreath are un-
doubtedly the best forms for this purpose, and the cross is
a favorite and beautiful emblem. An upright cross of
flowers, solid on all sides, with a base of the same, is a
very striking object, but unless well and richly made,
were better left alone. Anchors, crowns, baskets, and
bouquets, are all used for the same purpose. In any of
these forms, the slightly rounding surface is the best; that
is to say, the flowers in the wreath, cross, &c., must
neither be flat nor too highly rounded.

It has ever been a matter of wonder to the workers in
flowers how such a preponderance of white is required.
Most of them have not realized (although often practis-
ing it) that the most beautiful colored bouquets have
always a large proportion of white in their composition.
When we consider that white flowers are used, in quan-
tity at least, equal to flowers of all colors collectively, and
add to this the large amount of white flowers used alone
for funerals, weddings, church offerings, &c., we may more
readily conceive how important the raising of white
flowers is to all flower growers. We believe it is safe
to affirm that no one in the flower business fairly dis-
covered this necessity, until the vastly increasing demand
for flowers in late years forced it upon his attention,
and compelled growers to the production of white
flowers as the most important part of their business.

Bouquet making is no longer a paltry business ; the
trade in flowers, in New York at least, has fairly outgrown
that of flowering plants, and when so much of this work
is required, and when that well done is so much more valu-
able, it becomes worthy of more study and attention.

Many people have little idea of the value set upon
flowers by some of their fellow mortals. In New York,
during winter, twenty-five cents is a common price for a
handsome rose-bud, the same per dozen for violets,

158 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

while camellias vary from one dollar each, when scarce,
to twenty-five cents when plentiful. At Christmas and
New Year's, camellias are frequently sold from two to
three dollars each. The price of hand bouquets varies
from fifty cents upwards. What florists call good hand
bouquets sell at about five dollars, extra fine from five to
ten ; occasionally they bring still higher figures. This writer
has sold not a few at fifteen, and on rare occasions has
received twenty dollars for a hand bouquet, and that
from men who knew well the usual prices of flowers.
To give the uninitiated some idea how these things are
used, we may mention having seen a belle at an evening
party in New York, carrying a bouquet in each hand,
while three others were strung from each arm as tro-
phies of her prowess among the simpler, if not the softer
sex. Of course this display could not last long; the very
weight of her attractions would speedily compel her to sur-
render, for be it remembered those eight bouquets certain-
ly contained about sixty camellias alone. We have known
rich and fashionable belles even more favored than this,
and have heard of one having fifteen splendid hand bouquets
sent for one occasion. We have never, however, heard of
another showing such muscular prowess in their display.
Baskets of flowers commonly sell from five to twenty-five
dollars, stands from fifteen to fifty, extra large stands from
fifty to a hundred. We have heard of two hundred and
even three hundred dollars being paid for one. Bouquets
for refreshment and dinner tables range from five to fifty
dollars each; we have ourselves made one at one hundred.
The prices of wreaths, crosses, &c., vary from five to
twenty or thirty dollars; from five to fifteen is a com-
mon range. On one occasion a New York florist is said
to have supplied three thousand dollars' worth of flowers
for a private entertainment, but two or three hundred
is more common, and esteemed a very good order.
A business, which in New York alone amounts to hund-

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 159

reds of thousands of dollars annually, will soon assert
its own position, and it is for those engaged in it to make
or mar it, as they conduct it more or less respectably.
As Americans assuredly pay better prices for their bouquets
than any other people, let the florist see to it that they
get the finest and best arranged flowers.

We must apologize to the general reader for the minute
description and the technical terms used in detailing the
modus operandi of construction, but it is necessary to
be thus particular, to be properly understood by such as
are interested in the subject. So many flowers have
short or unmanageable stems, or grow
so close to buds which the grower can-
not afford to cut, that artificial stems must
be largely used. Even where stems are
available, the bouquet maker in all good
work prefers having another added to
hold the flower in position, the strength
of the stem being proportioned to the
weight of the flower it bears. Thick
stems must be avoided, else the bouquet
handle becomes clumsy, — a very objec-
tionable feature, as amateurs speedily dis-
cover, particularly when using flowers on
their own stems. The stems commonly
used are of broom-corn or straw matting,
Fig. 44. cut in lengths as desired, from four to

eight inches. With this and hair wire cut to three-
inches, the "stemmer" goes to work. By a rapid twist
one end of the wire is fastened on the straw, and the
flower is attached by a whirl of the stem between finger
and thumb, as in figure 44. Stemming is a large
part of the labor of bouquet making, and rather distaste-
ful to the amateur. One bouquet maker requires two
stemmers, and a very prosy business it soon becomes to
both, and vastly less interesting than the growing of

160 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

flowers. Strong spool cotton or shoe thread is used for
tying up the flowers. Camellia stems being entirely un-
available, a wire the thickness of a pin is passed through
the calyx of the flower, the ends being twisted together.
It is then stemmed on a light, dried willow — which admits
of bending to the required position — with sufficient moss
wound under the flower to prevent its outer petals being
at all compressed, when set in the bouquet. Without
some such provision it is impossible, either to attain the
rounding outline of the bouquet, or to display the flowers
in perfection.

With flowers prepared, let us take a camellia for the
centre of our bouquet, tie it securely to the bouquet
stem (a piece of kite stick or stiff twig), and wind moss
around it, as already described, to keep the flower from
outer pressure, the moss running to a point about two
inches below the flower. Six tea rose-buds are now set at
regular intervals around and on a line with the outer
petals of the camellia, and the spaces between these each
tilled with a small piece of white eupatorium, a very
small geranium leaf or point of delicate green being set
by each bud. A little moss is now wound lightly,
close under the flowers, to prevent crowding, a pink car-
nation set behind each rose-bud, with tuberoses between,
a speck of eupatorium being inserted under the edge of
each tuberose, to fill out. Six white camellias of equal
size and form, stemmed as described, are now set at regu-
lar intervals around, particular care being taken to form
with the face of these flowers the correct outline of the
bouquet, and their stems tightly bound, to prevent work-
ing out of place. Between each camellia, on the inner
side, another tuberose is set, filled out with a speck of
stevia under each side; more moss is added, and a bright
speck of crimson bouvardia forms the sole dividing line
between the centres of the camellias — which nearly touch
each other. A tea rose-bud follows, with a violet set in

CONSTRUCTION OF BOUQUETS, ETC. 161

sweet alyssum on one side and a small geranium leaf in
the same on the other ; a white carnation is set behind
each bud, with a speck of bouvardia in eupatorium on
each side. A light border of stevia is now set around the
whole, and with camellia leaves of equal form stemmed
on willows, and projected nearly half their length, the
bouquet is finished. The back is trimmed with bouquet
green, or fine leaves of any evergreen. The handle is cut
to about three inches, and being a hand bouquet, is wrap-
ped with tinfoil, wound over, and neatly tied above with
a bow of white taffeta ribbon.

The outline of the bouquet must be carefully kept as
the work proceeds, and sufficient moss from time to time
packed lightly in front and immediately under the flow-
ers. By this means the weight of the structure is borne
by the stems, the flowers being only allowed to touch
each other. Moss not only serves well to keep the flowers
apart, but acts as a sponge when the bouquet is set in water,
giving moisture to flowers with the shortest stems; and
bouquets thus made are more durable than the casual ob-
server— who gazes regretfully on the beheaded flowers —
is apt to imagine. When, in addition to the moss, a piece
of wet cotton is stemmed to every flower, (as the writer
has all good work done,) the natural stem is not unkindly
superseded. The maker must work with a tight thread,
to prevent the flowers from getting out ofplace, and keep
a clean surface on the handle. Another method of bouquet
making is to tie a ball of moss rather loosely on the
bouquet stick and insert the flowers (which are stemmed
to suit the work), drawing them down to the desired posi-
tion, and tying as the work proceeds.

Yase bouquets are made similarly, with more green
" backing " between and around the flowers, for loose ar-
rangement and to support the greater weight. Flower
baskets are lined with tinfoil, or, if not likely to show after
filling, any tough paper will serve the purpose ; they are

162

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

then filled with sawdust, rounding above, damped and cov-
ered with wet moss ; a border of arbor-vitae, bouquet, or
other greens is set around, to support the overhanging flow-
ers. The flowers, stemmed on pieces of match stick, (fig.
45,) or twigs, are now inserted according to the taste of the
worker, with moss packed between them as the work
proceeds. Baskets thus filled and sprinkled with water
keep well, but the more common method is to insert bou-
quet green (Lycopodium) over the
whole surface, and arrange the
flowers therein without any moss
packing. Wreaths are commonly
made on a stout wire, which has
a straw of matting wound to it, to
enable the thread to hold ; a back-
ing of green is laid for the flowers
.as the work proceeds. Both green
and flowers must be wound on with
points projecting to each side, the
stems crossing like the letter X.
If laid straight along, the flowers
are huddled together, and the ar-
rangement seems thick backed
and clumsy. When the desired
length is attained the ends are
firmly tied, and flowers and green together are pressed
round on the wire, and by this means turned to face as
required ; a bow of white silk bonnet string finishes the
wreath. Crosses are made on two pieces of thin wood ;
the three upper points being made, the cross-stick is then
tacked and tied in its place, the centre filled, and so
wound to the bottom. Like wreaths, these may be finish-
ed with or without a bow of ribbon. Wire frames have
to a great extent superseded these old methods of
winding flowers to sticks and wires. These are made
from half to three quarters of an inch in depth — that is,

Fig. 45.

HANGING BASKETS. 163

with raised edges — and painted green, the breadth vary-
ing with the circumference. The frame gives the florist
at once the desired form, and makes it easy work for any
person of taste to arrange flowers in the shape of an
anchor, star, <fcc., &c. The frame is filled with damp
moss, wound slightly to keep it in place, and the flowers,
stemmed on short twigs, are inserted in the moss. Tin-,
fortunately in many respects frames are objectionably
clumsy.

CHAPTER XXIII.

HANGING BASKETS.

It is only of late years that the taste for hanging bask-
ets has become so universal, possibly induced by the
beautiful specimens of this kind exhibited in such variety
and profusion at the Crystal Palace, of London, a dozen
years ago. The taste has extended to every town and
hamlet throughout the land. The baskets are made either
of wire -work, earthenware, or of rough and gnarled roots
or limbs, to form " rustic " work. The wire and rustic
baskets are the kinds in most general use.

Only certain kinds of plants are suitable for hanging
baskets ; such as are of low, compact growth, to cover the
surface, and such as are of drooping or trailing habit, to
hang over the sides. For a basket of one foot in diameter
we name the following as suitable :

Coleus Verschaffeltii, a well-known bronze-foliaged plant.

Centaurea Candida, a plant with white, downy leaves,
of compact growth.

Geranium, Tom Thumb, scarlet, dwarf and compact,
blooming all summer.

164

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Sedum Sieboldii, a plant of light glaucous foliage and

graceful habit.

These are suita-
ble for the tipper
surface of the bask-
et. Those proper
to plant near the
edge of the basket,
to hang down, are :

Lobelia Erinus
Paxtoni, an exqui-
site blue, drooping
18 inches.

Tropa3olum, Ball
of Fire, daz-
zling scarlet, plant
drooping 18 inches.

Lysimachia num-
mularia, flowers,
bright yellow,
drooping 18 inches.

Lin aria Cymbal-
aria, inconspicuous
flowers, but grace-
ful foliage.

For a basket of
two feet in diame-
ter the undernamed
make a fine display:

For the centre :

Geranium, Mrs.
Pollock, foliage,
crimson, yellow,
and green ; flowers,
Fig. 46.-SEDUM SIEBOLDII. bright scarlet.

HANGING BASKETS.

165

Centaurea gynmocarpa, foliage, fern-like, whitish gray,
of a peculiar graceful habit.

Fig. 47. — PAXICtTM VAIUEGATUM.

Sedum Sieboldii variegatum, glaucous green, marbled
•with golden yellow.

Achyranthes Gilsonii, a beautiful shade of carmine
foliasre and stem.

106 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Alyssum dentatum variegatum, foliage, green and
white, with fragrant flowers of pure white.

Alternanthera spathulata, lanceolate leaves of pink and
crimson.

Pyrethrum, Golden Feather, fern-like foliage, golden
yellow.

For the drooping plants :

Maurandia Barclayana, white or purple flowers.

Vinca elegantissima aurea, foliage, deep green, netted
with golden yellow ; flowers, deep blue.

Cerastium tomentosum, foliage, downy white ; flowers,
white.

Convolvulus Mauritanicus, flowers, light blue, profuse.

Solanum jasminoides variegatum, foliage, variegated;
flowers, white, with yellow anthers.

Geranium peltatum elegans, a variety of the Ivy-leaved,
with rich, glossy foliage, and beautiful mauve-colored
flowers.

Panicum variegatum, a procumbent grass from New
Caledonia, of graceful habit of growth, with beautiful va-
riegated foliage, striped white, carmine, and green. One
of the most valuable plants for baskets or vases that has
been recently introduced. It requires a plenty of heat.
Fig. 47 inadequately represents it, as it was taken from a
very inferior specimen.

In setting the plants in the hanging baskets, a layer of
moss, at least an inch in depth should be spread over the
bottom and sides, so that the water may be held and
prevented from washing through.

To have the plants bloom freely, they should be hung
where they will be exposed to the sun at least two or
three hours each day, and in dry weather copiously
watered daily. If the surface of the basket between the
plants is covered with moss, it will prevent the earth

PARLOR OR WINDOW GARDENING. 167

from drying out so soon, and will give a neater appear-
ance to the basket. The soil used to plant in may be
that suitable for potting ordinary plants, as described
under the head of soils.

CHAPTER XXIV.

PARLOR OR WINDOW GARDENING.

To be successful in growing plants in the window of
the parlor or sitting-room, it is of the first importance to
begin with plants that are in a healthy state.

Florists, with all their appliances for successful culture,
often fail to bring health to a sickly subject. How, then,
can our amateur friends hope to recuperate the weakened
energies of some petted plant in the less congenial atmos-
phere of an ordinary dwelling-house? I well know the
usual practice of our lady friends in this matter. In pur-
chasing their supply of bedding plants from the florist
in May, all are taken from the pots and planted in flower
beds, to decorate the borders for the summer months. By
the first appearance of frost in October, the plants of Bou-
vardias, Carnations, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Heliotropes,
Roses, &c., &c., that were such tiny slips when planted
out in May, are now, many of them, large plants, and in
Jill their glory of bloom ; but Jack Frost shall not have
them, they shall be saved. Pots are sent for, soil of the
most approved brand is procured from some florist high
in the art the plants are lifted up with all care and placed
in the pots. Our amateur friend is in raptures ; as yet they
look just as green and flourishing as when growing in
the garden. But a day passes, and although they have
been shaded and watered with all care, the plants some-

168 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

how begin to show symptoms of collapse. The Geranium
leaves, that looked so green and well, are now soft and
flabby. The Rose-buds, that held up their heads with
pride, now look abashed and hang down.

This state of affairs continues : from the leaves being
simply wilted they begin to get yellow and shrivel up ; by
ten days, many of the plants have died outright, and the
remainder are in a sad looking condition, that is dis-
heartening to the owner.

No other result than this will ever be obtained with
plants treated in this manner. When florists wish to lift
plants of this nature in fall, two-thirds of the shoots are
usually cut off, and the plants put through a course of treat-
ment to induce them to strike new roots, that it is hardly
ever in the power of the amateur to apply ; but even though
we succeed in saving the plants, it is almost always at
the expense of the bloom, for few plants can be lifted in
bloom in October from the open ground and continue to
blossom throughout the winter. Now, having pointed
out the errors, I will show the way to succeed in obtain-
ing healthy plants that will grow and bloom freely in
winter, provided they are supplied with the necessary
moisture and heat. All plants that are intended for house
plants in winter, when set out in May, should be first
placed in pots, 6 or 7 inches in diameter. These pots
should be planted, or, as we term it, "plunged" to the
rim, or level with the surface ; thus they are almost in the
same condition as if they had been planted without the
pot, only the roots are confined inside of the pot, so that
when the plant is lifted in fall there is no mutilation of the
roots, as must always of necessity be the case when the
plant is put in the open ground, as the roots ramify in
all directions. One caution, however, is necessary : the
hole in the bottom of the pot must be effectually stopped
up so that the roots cannot strike through, or the pot
should be turned around two or three times during the

PARLOR OR WINDOW GARDEXIXG. 169

course of the summer, so as to break off the roots as they
strike through the bottom. If this is not done, nearly the
same difficulty will be experienced as if they had not been
potted in spring. But if proper attention has been given to
this, plants of every description that are suitable for win-
ter will be in fine state by the time of taking up — in this
district, the 1st of October — as by this time there is
danger of frost.

The following list comprises those plants most suitable
for window culture, and such as are most easily managed
and least expensive.

Calla, (Richardia,)

Carnations — monthly sorts,

Cyclamens,

Chrysanthemums,

Chinese Primroses,

Fuchsias.

Hyacinths and other Bulbs,

Geraniums, Variegated, Zonale, Scented, and Ivy-leaved.

Heliotropes,

Pelargoniums,

Roses — Tea, Bourbon, and Bengal,

Camellias and Azaleas.

All of these will flower and grow freely in a green-house
temperature, or at an average of not more than 50 degrees
at night, with 15 or 20 degrees higher during the day.

We add another list of plants requiring a higher tem-
perature, some of them being in other respects more diffi-
cult of culture, besides being more expensive :
Bouvardias of sorts, Begonias,
Cissus discolor, Euphorbias,

Stephanotis, Poinsettias,

Tuberoses, Orchids,

Ferns, Lycopodiums.

All of the above will luxuriate best in a humid atmos-
phere, at an average of not less than 60° at night, with
8

170 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

15 or 20 degrees higher during the day. The best aspect
for growing plants from October to April is due south.
For the intermediate season, east is preferable. Watering
is a very important operation, but a little experience with
plants, and ordinary care in observing, will soon show
when this is required. A good deal depends on the condi-
tion of the plant ; if in vigorous growth there is but little
danger of giving it too much. On the other hand, if the
plant has been cut back or lost its leaves, water should be
given sparingly. For example, you may take a vigorous
growing apple or pear tree, and saw off its limbs to the
trunk in midsummer ; if its roots are kept saturated with
moisture it will die, but if kept dry it will shortly again
develop branches and' leaves. This example teaches us a
lesson in more artificial culture, that in proportion to the
vigor of the subject should its food be supplied. The
practice of placing the pots in saucers filled with water
is destructive to the health of the plants, as, of course,
as long as the water remains in the saucers the soil
is absorbing it and the roots of the plant are saturated;
it is well enough to use the saucers to prevent the soil
from washing through, but the water should be applied
at the surface of the pot, and what little will pass through
into the saucer will do no harm. Another source of an-
noyance to those growing plants in rooms is the various in-
sects that attack them. The most common and inju-
rious of these is the Aphis or Green Fly. In our green-
houses we keep this little pest in check by continued
fumigation with tobacco, but as this would not be practi-
cable in rooms, recourse must be had to immersing the
plant in tobacco water, made to a strength having about the
color of strong tea. By dipping the plant in this once in
two weeks, or, when the plants are large, syringing them
with it, they will never be seen. The Red Spider and
thrip are not so easily got rid of, but fortunately they are
not so common or injurious, unless in a very high temper-

FORMATION OF ROCK-WORK. 171

ature and dry atmosphere. The only practicable way of
arresting them is by syringing or immersing as for Green
Fly. For further information on this point see chapter on
insects.

There are no special soils necessary for the amateur to
trouble himself about in cultivating his parlor flowers. For
our opinions at length on this head, see chapter on soils.
Neither should he tamper with guano or other fertilizers ;
equalization of temperature and moisture will secure the
end desired. If he wishes to increase his plants, full di-
rections will be found under the head " Propagation."

CHAPTER XXV..

FORMATION OF ROCK-WORK.

This feature of pleasure ground decoration is generally
necessitated by circumstances; if the ground which has to
be chosen for that purpose is naturally stony, it often be-
comes the cheapest way to get rid of the stones, grouping
them so that they become ornamental. They may often
thus be used to advantage in forming breaks or screens, to
hide the flower garden from the vegetable or fruit garden ;
in this way they are laid up in rugged walls, the inter-
stices filled with soil and covered with hardy perennial
plants. Locations where rocks exist in their natural con-
dition can often be made highly interesting and ornament-
al by setting out plants of a drooping or trailing habit
to overhang among them. Among those suitable for such
purpose are :

Achilleas, of creeping growth, Linnsea borealis,

Campanulas, of creeping growth, Lychnis grandiflora,

' Crucianella stylosa, Lyaimaehia nummularia,

. Cerastium tomeutosum, Orobus veraus,

172 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Phloxes, of creeping growth, Soldanella alpina,

Polemonium reptans, Vinca mtvjor variegata,

Saxifragas, Tl^mus vulgaris variegata,

Sedums, of all kinds, Violas of sorts.
Sempervivums, of all kinds,

Artificial rock-works are often formed. The shape and
dimensions of the work being determined on, the clinkers
from furnaces are collected, and dipped in hot lime wash,
which gives a coloring of pure white to their fantastic
shapes. With these the " rock-work " mound is formed
of the height and shape desired, leaving at suitable dis-
tances cavities of 6 or 8 inches deep, to be filled with soil
in which to place the creeping plants. For this kind of
rock-work a different class of plants is more appropriate,
— such as are of bright colors and will contrast with
the ground-work of white. — Scarlet or other high-colored
Verbenas, Coleus, Gazanias, Scarlet Geraniums, Blue
Lobelias, Lysimachia, or Golden Moneywort, may be
used with excellent effect. By the use of hydraulic cement
instead of lime, the rock-work can be made of a pleasing
drab color. A rockery so formed and planted, without
having any pretensions to being " natural," is always
an interesting and attractive object on a well-kept lawn.

CHAPTER XXVL

INSECTS.

There is no subject referred to in this volume, that 1
feel so incompetent to discuss as that of insects. Not
that our experience with the pests has not been ample
enough, but all the knowledge obtained from that expe-
rience leaves us at tunes utterly helpless to prevent their
ravages, particularly on plants grown out of doors. Un-

13 SECTS. 173

der glass we may say that they are entirely under control,
and I have always considered that no better evidence of the
incompetency of the person in charge of a green-house
could be had, than to see the plants covered with insects.

The most annoying of all insects of the flower garden,
is the

Rose Slug) Selandria Rosce, a light green, translucent
little fellow, varying from 1-16 of an inch to nearly an inch
in length. There are evidently two species or varieties,
one of which confines its ravages to the lower side of the
leaf; the other eats it entire. The first is by far the most
destructive here. In a few days after the plants are at-
tacked they appear as if they had been burned.

The only remedy we have found is a preventive one,
which, in fact, ought to be used against all insect life. Be-
fore the leaves of the roses appear, just as soon as the
buds begin to develop, apply whale oil soap, in the pro-
portion of one Ib. to eight gallons of water; this, stead-
ily applied for ten days, with a syringe or garden engine,
has, in my experience, entirely prevented the attacks of
the insect. But once let it get a foothold and it can hardly
be driven off by this application, unless it be made strong
enough to injure the foliage, making the remedy worse
than the disease. The species of Rose Slug that eats the
entire leaf seems to confine its depredations more to
young plants, and later in the season. We have found it
quite troublesome in June and July among our young roses,
which had been planted out in May and June, and as
these were young and tender plants, the whale oil soap
remedy could not safely be applied; so we have often
had acres of young roses covered by myriads of these slugs,
before they were observed, and nothing could be done ex-
cept to shake the plants, and kill the insects when they fell
to the ground. In the summer of 1866, we had some
nine or ten boys shaking the plants and killing the slugs,
for upwards of a week, and by this means saved our crop

174 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

of roses. Last season (1863), we had a whole army
of volunteer exterminators, in the thousands of English
Sparrows that havfr recently favored us with their pres-
ence, and which we feed and house with the greatest care
during winter. We observed immense flocks of them
actively engaged for days in picking up something in our
rose beds, and had imagined it to be seeds obtained from
the refuse hops, that we had used as a mulching. At times
we felt inclined to believe that they would pick the
tender leaves of the rose, to use by way of a salad, having
always believed them to be strictly " vegetarians," or seed
eaters. Finding, however, that we were less troubled with
the Rose Slug that season than usual, it occurred to me that
perhaps we were indebted to our noisy, feathered friends
for the immunity. To test the matter, a victim was nec-
essary ; accordingly a plethoric looking fellow was shot,
when, sure enough, his well-stuffed crop revealed seeds,
Rose Slugs, and Aphis, or Green Fly, in great abundance,
demonstrating beyond all question the great value of
these birds as insect destroyers.

The Rose Bug (Macrodactylis subspinosus), or Rose
Chafer, as it is sometimes called, is so named from its at-
tacking the buds or blossoms of the rose, in preference to
anything else, although it is destructive to many other
plants, particularly to the Dahlia, the flower of which it
devours rapidly. All the ordinary remedies seem to fall
harmlessly on the Rose Bug, and if not destroyed by
hand its ravages cannot be stopped, unless our feather-
ed friends come to the rescue ; whether they will be
equally efficacious in destroying the Rose Bug, I am un-
able to say, although I am inclined to think they will.
We have never yet been much troubled with them here,
and so far have not had the opportunity of knowing
whether the Sparrows feed on them or not.

The Ground or Blue Aphis. — This is one of the most
subtle and most dangerous of all the pests with which we

INSECTS. 175

have to contend in -the cultivation of flowers. Hundreds of
my amateur friends come to me year after year, with sor-
rowful tales of their verbenas, asters, &c., which were pic-
tures of health and beauty, but now are one after an-
other sickening and dying, apparently without cause. But
there was a cause, and one cause only. The Aphis was at
work on the roots. But the remedy ? Alas ! almost hope-
less at this stage of the disease. Still, as a physician
must prescribe in all cases, we say that the only chance is
an application of tobacco water, about the color of strong
tea, applied copiously and persistently to the roots, for at
lea.st a week.

We have occasionally saved all our stock by this reme-
dy, when used at once, as soon as they were seen to be af-
fected. Many species of plants are attacked by this insect.
Asters, particularly, are much injured by it. In fact, when
in excess, there is hardly a species of plant exempt from
its attacks. We have often seen this Aphis clustering
by thousands on the roots of melons and cucumbers, to
the very points of the roots, a foot below the surface.

The Green Fly, or Plant Louse, is not so hurtful in the
open air as many other insects, and is easily got rid of
either by syringing with whale oil soap or tobacco water,
in the degrees of strength before named.

The Red Spider is rarely seen in the open ground, ex-
cept in a hot and dry atmosphere, when it is often very
destructive in dry, sheltered gardens, during the months
of July and August. Frequent sy ringings of whale oil
soap will hold it in check.

AntS, — Although these are not generally to be feared in
the green-house or flower-garden, yet we have occasional-
ly suffered by them and have found the simplest way to
destroy them to be to lay fresh bones around their haunts.
They will leave everything else and attack these ;
when thus accumulated, they can easily be destroyed by
dipping in hot water.

175 PKACTICAL FLOKICULTUKE.

We now come to the insects which are troublesome
under glass ; here we have the means within our control
to entirely prevent the two leading insects, Green Fly and
Red Spider. In both cases, I have always contended
that " an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of
cure." There is no neglect of the gardener or foreman in
charge of green-houses which is so little excusable as
allowing insects to injure his plants.

Green Fly (Aphis) is prevented, (for I contend that it
should never be seen, so that it need be destroyed), by
fumigating with tobacco smoke, not less than twice each
week. We do it in a manner much more simple and
agreeable to the operator than is often practiced. Two
or three times each week during the entire season at
which our green-houses are filled with plants, we use a
small handful of shavings, on top of which we place about
half a pound of tobacco stems, previously made damp.
The shavings are lighted, and the fire being on the brick
flooring, is left to take care of itself. We use this quanti-
ty of tobacco to every 500 square feet of glass ; we burn thus
five to six tons of tobacco stems every season, but we rarely
see a green fly. We have occasionally seen this insect in-
crease to such an extent in its different conditions, that fu-
migation was powerless to destroy it, or rather it would
have required it to be applied so strong, to dislodge the vast
number of the enemy, that the plants would have been in-
jured. The safer way to treat a desperate case of this
kind is to brush the insect off, by hand, or with a soft
brush ; this is a slow process, but an effectual one. This
condition of the plants can only be the result of utter neg-
lect. The green fly sometimes injures plants which stand
too near together, so that the leaves get matted so closely
that the fumes of the tobacco cannot penetrate. This is
a condition, where recourse must be had to brushing the
insects from the leaves, and, if possible, spreading the
plants, so that the air can pass freely among them,

INSECTS. 177

The Red Spider is rather a more insidious enemy than
the green fly, and far more tenacious of life, and often
does much mischief before its presence has become known.
The experienced gardener, of course, should not only be
able to detect its presence, but also to discover the at-
mosphere favorable to its production. A dry and hot at-
mosphere, so dry that few plants can long continue in
health in it, is such an one as this pest delights to revel
in. Such an atmosphere in hot-house or green-house
is thus doubly hurtful to plant life, and therefore should
never be allowed. The remedies are simple ; if there is
not time for syringing, let water be thrown copiously on
the paths, under and on the benches, place pans filled
with water on the flue or pipes, or use any other means that
may suggest itself, to counteract the aridity of the air,
due to heavy firing in winter, or hot, dry days in spring
or summer. Therefore, as in the case of the green fly, if
proper preventives are used, the red spider need never be
seen in the green-house.

The red spider is an exceedingly minute insect, so
small that it is a mere speck when seen by the naked eye,
but when closely examined, may be seen moving with
great rapidity. Though minute in themselves the presence
of these insects may be quickly detected, by the upper
side of the leaves becoming browned, though, as a general
thing, their ravages are confined to the under side of the
leaf. Parlor plants are often subject to this insect, as it
is not convenient to give the necessary moisture, and
the only remedy in such cases, if the collection is not too
numerous, is sponging the leaves.

We often have woeful complaints from our lady friends,
that their plants all get brown and look sickly, and it re-
quires but little thinking to divine what enemy is making
the attack.

The aphis, from its size, is quickly seen, and means
may be used at once to destroy it, but this minute red
8*

178 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

pest may be sapping the life of a plant for weeks before it
is discovered. Amateur cultivators generally expect to
see something more tangible in a spider, if they have
heard of the red dragon at all, and are often hard to
convince, that this minute insect is the cause of so much
disaster.

I will relate a rather ludicrous incident, to show that
some even of larger experience may become possessed of
that notion.

Some twelve years ago, I had in my employment an
active young Irishman, who, by showing more than ordi-
nary energy, quickly passed through the different grades,
until he was duly installed as foreman ; at that time we
had been firing a Camellia house, and by neglect of keep-
ing a properly moist atmosphere, the red spider had
made sad inroads. John was duly instructed to syringe
the plants, night and morning, to destroy it, which he
did; no doubt with a double object in view, as the sequel
will show. John was on all occasions rather demon-
strative, but one morning he came rushing towards me,
his face radiant with triumph, with his hat off, but
clasped in his hands, in a careful manner, evidently
having , something of no common value within it. Before
I had time to inquire what was the cause of his excite-
ment, he yelled out " I've got him ! bedad ! I've got
him at last !" " What have you got ?" I enquired, expect-
ing to see something in the way of a rat or mouse.
" Arrah, the big divil himself, the blaggard that has been
doin' us all the mischief, the Heed Sphider!" and opening
his hat, a villainous Tarantula-looking fellow ran out,
bigger than a thousand red spiders, which was quickly des-
patched by John's brogan. From that time John learn-
ed to know what the red spider was, but was never anx-
ious to allude to it afterwards.

The Verbena Mite, another pest most disastrous in
its ravages on the Verbena, Heliotrope Petunia, Pelar-

INSECTS. 179

gonium, and various other plants, is so small that it
cannot be seen by the naked eye ; but it produces what
is known as " black rust," a disease that in many parts
of the country has made the cultivation of these plants,
particularly the Verbena, almost impossible.

Viewed by a powerful microscope, this insect, mag-
nified 400 times, appears of the size given
in fig. 48 ; it moves with great rapidity,
and can only be examined as it stops to
feed. When this little pest has once got
a foothold, all direct remedies to dislodge
him seem to be powerless; the fumes of
tobacco, so destructive to the aphis, or of

-T7I • * Q 1

sulphur, which is death to the spider, fall
harmlessly on this microscopic insect.

There is hardly a doubt but that the fumes of sulphur
or tobacco would destroy it, if it had not the power cf
imbedding itself in the leaf. This is evidently the case,
as on subjecting affected plants to a severe fumigation
with tobacco for 30 minutes no insects could be discerned
on the leaves ; but after a short time they again appeared
on the field of the microscope, apparently unscathed.
Now, although we have no direct remedy against this in-
sect, which produces the black rust, we have, I think, a
preventive, by keeping the plants in that healthy condi-
tion which seems to be repellant to its attack. For the
means used to get that healthy condition, see article
on the culture of the Verbena, which is, with slight modi-
fications,, equally applicable to all other plants affected
by this insect.

The microscope reveals that this particular species,
which is so destructive to our Verbena, Heliotrope, Petu-
nia, and scores of other plants cultivated in the green-
house or garden, is the same or closely resembles that
which gives the roughness to particular parts of the bark
of cherry, plum, and peach trees, and no doubt is to be

180 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

found on thousands of other varieties of the vegetable
kingdom, whenever a lessened vitality takes place. Cor-
roborative of this view, I had a lot of about 500 plants
of Heliotrope growing in 2-inch pots in one of our green-
houses last fall, one-half of which were, in September,
shifted into 3-inch pots, to be reserved for stock plants.
They were kept side by side and treated in all respects the
same. Those shifted, of course, with increased food,
grew vigorously and strong, while the unshifted remained
comparatively stunted, and to-day, December 1st, the
" black rust " shows itself on nearly every plant, and the
microscope shows on every affected leaf hundreds of
these insects, feeding like sheep on a pasture field, while
on the shifted plants none whatever can be found. This
is only one of hundreds of cases which yearly come un-
der our observation, to prove that, from whatever cause the
vital action of a plant is impaired, it is placed in the con-
dition which in a greater or less degree invites the attack
of parasitic fungi (mildew) or insects.

Mealy Bug", as it is familiarly termed, is a white, mealy,
or downy-looking insect, often very troublesome in the
hot-house ; it is quickly destroyed by a solution of 1 Ib.
of whale oil soap to five gallons of water ; but, as it often
attacks plants of the most tender kinds, that are liable to
be injured even by this weak mixture, it is not safe for
inexperienced hands to use it before experimenting on its
strength, and perhaps the safest method is simply to
brush off the insects with a soft brush, made for the
purpose.

Brown and White Scale Insects,— These are less in-
jurious and less common to plants than any of the pre-
ceding, and are generally found in dark or ill-ventilated
green-houses, adhering to the stems and under part of the
leaves of hard-wooded plants. The best remedy is wash-
ing, or brushing them off by hand ; fumigating, and the

INSECTS. 181

different solutions destructive to aphis, &c., falling harm-
lessly on these.

Thrips is an active insect,varying in size from that hard-
ly perceptible by the naked eye, to the size of the green
fly, and varying in color from whitish-yellow to dark
brown ; it is a jumping insect, very active in its move-
ments, and when it once gets a foothold is very destruct-
ive. It succumbs to tobacco smoke, but not so quickly
as does the green fly. It luxuriates in shaded situations, and
is generally found where plants are standing too thickly to-
gether,or where the ventilation or light of the green-house
has been deficient. I think it may be safe to assert that
in any well-regulated green-house or hot-house no injury
from insects will ever become serious, if proper attention
to syringing and fumigating has been given. Syring-
ing, or other means of keeping a moist atmosphere,
must never be neglected for a day, and fumigating by
tobacco smoke should be done, at the least, once each
week. This has been our own practice for nearly twenty
years, and we rarely ever see an insect in our green-
houses.

The "Carnation Twitter." — This is an insect but little
known, and called in this district only by its local name
of " Carnation Twitter," given from its rapid and nervous
motion. As seen by the naked eye it is about the twen-
tieth part of an inch in length, and of a thickness not
more than that of a cambric needle. It is of various
shades of color, from green to black ; it is never very
numerous on the plants, but most destructive and evidently
poisonous in its attacks on all varieties of the Carnation
and Pinks.

Its effects on the Carnation somewhat resemble those
of the red spider, except that when attacked by the
" Twitter," the leaves have a cankered and twisted ap-
pearance, easily distinguishable from the browning
effects of the spider. When Carnations or Pinks get

182 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

infested by this insect, all remedies to dislodge it
seem futile. We have lost thousands of plants in a
season by its attacks. It seems, however, to infest light
or sandy soil more than heavy loam or clay, and seems,
also, to be intermittent in its attacks, often not being seen
for three or four years in succession, and again returning
and destroying all in its path. In our light, sandy soil
at Jersey City we suffered severely from it, but for
five years, in our heavy, clayey soil in Bergen, it nas rarely
been seen.

CHAPTER XXVII

ARE PLANTS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH ?

. If physicians are asked if plants are injurious to health,
three out of six will reply that they are.

They will generally follow up the reply by a learned
disquisition on horticultural chemistry ; will tell you that
at night plants give out carbonic acid, which is poisonous
to animal life, and consequently if we sleep in a room
where plants are kept, we of necessity inhale this gas,
and sickness will follow. These worthies generally suc-
ceed in their specious reasoning, and the poor plants, that
have bloomed gaily all summer, are often consigned to
the coal cellar, for their winter's quarters, if given quar-
ters at all. No theory can be more destitute of truth ;
that plants give out carbonic acid may be, but that it is
given out in quantities sufficient to affect our health in the
slightest degree is utter nonsense.

No healthier class of men can be found than green-
house operators, which makes me sometimes think that
plants have a health-giving effect rather than otherwise.
But doctors may tell us that our workmen are only at work
in the day-time, and that it is at night that the carbonic acid

ARE PLANTS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH? 183

is emitted. Here we meet them by the information that in
most cases the gardener in charge of green-houses often
has to be up the greater part of the night in winter, and
the green-house, from its warmth, is universally taken as
his sitting-room, and sometimes as his bed-room ; such
was my own experience for three winters. I had charge
of a large amount of glass, situated nearly a mile from my
boarding-house, too far to go and come at midnight, with
the thermometer below zero. Our means of heating were
entirely inadequate, so that the fires had to be looked to
every three or four hours. Disregarding all my kind-
hearted employer's admonitions, I nightly slept on the
floor of the hot-house, which was rank with tropical
growth. The floor was just the place to inhale the gas,
if there had been much to inhale. It did not hurt me,
however, and has not yet, and that is a score of years
ago. That plants are injurious to health in sleeping-
rooms is one of the bugbear assertions that is willingly
swallowed by the gullible portion of the community, always
ready to assign effects to some tangible cause, and this, as
the assertion evinces some chemical lore, is one very prev-
alent among those disciples of Esculapius who are
always willing to be thought learned in the science so
intimately connected with their profession.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

NATURE'S LAW OF COLORS.

It has long been a belief among students in vegetable
physiology, that, in certain families of plants, particular
colors prevail, and that in no single instance can we ever
expect to see blue, yellow ', and scarlet colors in varieties
of the same species ; yet, undeviating as this law seems

184 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

to be, it is astonishing to see the credulity that there
is, even among intelligent horticulturists, some of whom
believe that we will yet have exceptions to this law, which,
as far as all our experience has gone, seems as unalterable
as the law of gravitation. If we reflect, we will find
there is nothing out of the usual order of nature in this
uniformity. The coloring given to the plumage of birds
is as unvarying as that given to the petals of a flower in
particular families. The most enthusiastic poultry fan-
cier will look in vain for the scarlet plumage of the Fla-
mingo in his Dorkings or Brahmas, or the color of the Balti-
more Oriole in the occupants of his pigeon-house. What
more reason, then, has the florist to expect that Nature
should deviate from her fixed course, and gladden his
eyes with a Rose or Dahlia of an azure hue, or that a Ver-
bena or a Petunia should be produced of a golden shade?

A knowledge of this subject is much needed by our
amateur horticulturists, who are imposed upon year
after year by itinerant dealers, who with flaming color-
ed drawings of these impossibilities in floriculture ex-
tract largely from the pockets of their victims, and in addi-
tion expose them to the ridicule of their less credulous or
more cautious neighbors. The audacity of these scamps
is truly astonishing; not a season passes but some of them
have the impudence to plant themselves right in the busi-
ness centres of the city of New York, and hundreds of
our sharp business men have for the consideration of $8
or $10, believed themselves to be the- possessors of verita-
ble blue Roses. Need I say that they were no less humbug-
ged than the rustic who falls into the hands of a mock
auctioneer, and chuckles to think that he has become
the possessor of a gold watch for a similar price?

In Rand's " Flowers for the Parlor and Garden," page
101, in remarking on the colors of the Verbena, he says a
good yellow Verbena has not yet been produced, but
goes on to say that he, " by a curious process of water-

NATURE'S LAW OF COLORS. 185

ing and fertilization with a white Verbena, obtained a
seedling which proved on blooming to be of a light straw
color; but the plant was wealdy and sickly, and died be-
fore cuttings could be taken." This " weakly " and " sick-
ly " condition was exactly why Mr. Rand obtained his
straw color ; had the plant been in health it, no doubt,
would have been only an impure white.

There are few florists of any experience who have not
raised hundreds of just such "straw colors" inVerbenas from
white, that have been weak and sickly ', for we all know
that the want of vitality in the plant imparts a jaundiced
hue to white flowers.

It is hardly fair in Mr. Hand to withhold from us what
that " curious process of watering and fertilization " was,
by which he succeeded in bringing into existence what De
Candolle, Lindley, and Loudon, have said can never be.
When a man writes a book for the information of the
public nothing should be held in reserve; his readers have
a right to every " secret " that he may possess connected
with the subject, and this reservation of Mr. Rand in so
very interesting a matter is tantalizing in the extreme.
Who knows but if he had given us the modus operandi
of his "curious process of watering and fertilization"
our Verbena beds would have long since had a golden
yellow flaunting side by side with scarlet and blue, or
that the same w curious process of watering and fertiliza-
tion " applied to the Rose, would have produced a color
rivalling a blue-bird in April ?

It is much to be regretted that Mr. Rand's yellow Ver-
bena was lost, but we trust that the " curious process "
by which it was produced is not among the lost arts.- If
an application of it can be made to produce a positively
yellow Verbena, the gentleman will receive the honors of
the whole horticultural world, and, if he chooses, can
pocket some thousands of dollars.

186 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

CHAPTER XXIX.

PACKING PLANTS.

As commercial floriculture is now becoming a matter
of importance, it will be interesting to many of our
readers to know the modes of packing for shipment.
During the months of March, April, and May last, (1868)
it is estimated that ten tons daily were received at the
different express offices in New York, of the products of
the green-house only. These were to be distributed through-
out the length and breadth of the land, shipments being
successfully made to the most extreme points in every di-
rection. The system of packing adopted for even the
most distant orders is of the simplest kind, differing en-
tirely from that in use by the English or French, and is a
result, like many other of our operations, of the necessi-
ties forced upon us by the want of labor. By our system
of packing, we ship plants almost every day from January
15th to June 15th, throughout the coldest weather in winter
and the sultry days of summer, with hardly a case of injury,
either from freezing or by heat. For the cold season we
use close boxes, placing a layer of 4 inches of soft, dry hay
on the bottom ends, sides, and top of the box. Whenever
the ball of roots is sufficiently firm, the plant is taken
from the pot, and each plant wrapped in paper, or rather
the ball or root of the plant is wrapped, leaving most of
the top uncovered. This wrapping in paper not only
serves to keep the ball from breaking, but it also, to some
extent, prevents the pressure of the plants upon each other.
In packing the plants in the box, they are placed com-
pactly in layers, alternated with an inch or two of soft hay
until the box is full. The utmost care is necessary to
pack the box entirely full, so that no movement can
take place in the plants should the boxes be roughly hand-
led. The soil should be always rather dry than other-
wise, as packed in this close manner the plants will not suffer

PACKING PLANTS. 187

for want of moisture. Boxes of medium size are best ;
we never like to use a box of greater capacity than the
ordinary flour barrel, usually prefering such as are one-
third smaller than that. If the box is too large, the plants
may be injured by mutual pressure.

This is our method of packing as long as there is danger
from frost, or until the middle of March. From the mid-
dle of March to the middle of April, we use a box of a
different character, open on all sides to admit air, for now
the danger to be avoided is from heat and not from cold.
The manner of packing is in all other respects the same,
except that no more hay is used around the inside of the
box than necessary to make a soft bed for the plants. If
the closely packed plants have any tendency to generate
heat, it will be counteracted by the admission of air
through the openings in the box. Again, we gradually
make a change in our style of packing to suit the 'advanc-
ing .season. For small orders, a light kind of chip basket
is used, in which the plants are packed in the man-
ner above described, and strapped over the top with hay.
We find a basket a most convenient and satisfactory arti-
cle to pack in, as its open-work sides freely admit the air.
In baskets weighing less than two pounds, we pack from
100 to 150 plants. Being annoyed at having frequently
to pay for clumsy, heavy packages in which our new im-
portations were received from England, I took occasion to
send over to a London nurseryman some fifty plants packed
in one of these baskets, the whole basket and contents weigh-
ing only 15 Ibs., and with two exceptions every plant was re-
ceived alive. I implored the gentleman to pack the plants
he was to send me in return in similar light baskets, as it
would not only save freight but, what was of far more
importance, save me the plants alive. He sent them in
baskets, sure enough, each one weighing of itself 40 Ibs.,
— a shapeless, ponderous affair, that with its contents re-
quired two men to lift it into a wagon. This was not the

188 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

worst of it; three-fourths of the plants were dead — our
usual experience in shipments of plants from Europe. This
loss is, without doubt, in most cases occasioned by the
cumbrous manner of packing.

When the weather becomes settled, so that all danger
of plants being chilled is over, we change our mode of
packing the plants from laying them down to standing
them upright in the baskets or boxes, beginning with the
heaviest plants at the bottom of the box or basket, and
placing each succeeding layer, to the depth of three or
four, one ball of roots on the top of the other. After
packing, the box or basket is watered freely, each plant,
or at least a portion of it, is exposed to the light, and thus
packed, they will remain ten or twelve days without injury.

CHAPTER XXX.

PLANTS BY MAIL.

Our postal laws admit plants, seeds, and bulbs, to be
sent at the cost of two cents for four ounces, provided the
package does not exceed four pounds in weight. This ar-
rangement has been the means of sending seeds and plants
into regions where they would not for many years have
been procurable with other means of conveyance, and the
projector of the idea deserves the gratitude of the nation
for it. A number of different contrivances have been
invented for packing plants to go by mail, including
boxes of various styles and dimensions ; the main difficulty
with all that we have seen is the weight. Of late years
we have dispensed with boxes of all kinds, and pack in the
following manner. Having selected the plants, choosing
such as are small but well rooted, the soil is washed from

THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE. 189

each plant, leaving the fibres of the roots uninjured. A
layer of dry moss half an inch thick is then spread on two or
three thicknesses of thick brown paper ; the plants are then
laid on the moss, a similar layer of moss is laid over the
the roots, and the paper, moss, and plants, are tightly rolled
up. The dry moss absorbs the water from the dripping
roots, so that thus tightly enclosed, sufficient moisture is
enveloped in the packages to keep the plants safe for a
week, provided that the package has been firmly wrapped
up. Either additional paper, sufficient to keep in the
moisture, or oiled silk, should be used for the outer cover-
ing. This process is so simple that any lady may transmit
to another some favorite plant or cutting, a distance of 2,000
miles, if necessary, at little cost. Where moss is not pro-
curable, raw cotton will answer the same purpose ; the
only danger to be avoided is in rolling up the package too
loosely, in which case the dry air will penetrate and will
be likely to shrivel up the plants. No injury will result
to the plants by tight wrapping, provided cotton or moss has
been placed above and below the roots in sufficient quantity.

CHAPTER XXXI.

THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE.

It is much easier to estimate the profits of the product
of the soil, be it in fruits or vegetables, than to define
by any certain rule what the profits of our green-house
floriculture are. In fact, we can only approximate to it, be-
cause the conditions in which the operations are carried
on at different places, or the different articles grown, make
anything like a general average for the whole country irn-

190 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. . " ^

possible. But, as we have heretofore done, we will confine
ourselves to the district of New York, which may be taken
at the present time as a fair representation of the whole
country.

The capital required in starting this department of hor-
ticulture I consider need not ]be so much as in that of
either nursery, vegetable, or fruit growing, and the
chances of moderate success I believe, from my observa-
tions, to be far greater. I say moderate success, for the
chances of making a colossal fortune in this are by no
means so great as in the regular nursery business, while
to offset this the chances of failure are less, and the busi-
ness is pleasanter and less exhaustive to follow. I have
hardly ever known a man who started in the florist?s busi-
ness to fail, unless he brought failure on himself by his
own imprudence; while I have known scores to fail in the
vegetable and nursery business, from causes entirely be-
yond their control. A frugal man, with a knowledge of
the business and $1,000 capital, may safely start in this
vicinity, or in any vicinity where there is a* town of 10,000
inhabitants of average intelligence and culture. But the
difficult question with all at starting is how to make that
$1,000 best available. Of course. expensive erections, such
as we have described in the chapter on green-house struc-
tures, are beyond his means, and something cheaper must
be adopted. The general principle on which these green-
houses are formed is ' in all respects the same, and the
beginner with limited means, instead of erecting three
houses, need erect only one, which should not be more than
50 feet long and of a width of 11 feet in the clear. The
proportions of height, <fcc., will be found in the drawing
on page 52. The sides may be formed of cedar or chest-
nut posts planked to the required height on the outside,
and filled in with brick on edge inside. In this way, at
present prices, a structure of this kind with flue, benches
and ajl complete need not cost more than six or eight dollars

THE PROFITS OF FLORICULTURE. 191

per running foot, or $300 or $400 for a house of 50 feet.
But something else will be needed besides the house, and
sunken pits or cold frames should be erected parallel with
the east side of the green-house and connected with it. A por-
tion, say half, of these, should be excavated to the depth
of 2 feet, and used as a sunken pit for Roses, &c., as de-
scribed in the chapter on Roses ; the cold frame portion,
which is not sunken but made level with the soil, can be
used to grow the hardier sorts of flowers, as Pansies, Dai-
sies, Pinks, &c. I here again repeat that the Rose, unless
grown to force for winter flowers, is easily injured by fire
heat, which it must necessarily receive if placed in the
green-house, in which are grown a variety of plants that re-
quire fire heat.

These pits and cold frames should be covered up care-
fully, either with shutters or mats, during severe weather
in winter, and care taken that all water is thoroughly
drained off from them. These sunken pits and cold
frames of 25 feet each will cost say $100, which, togeth-
er with the purchase of stock and coal to last through
the winter, would make the expenditure to this date, No-
vember, $600 or $700, leaving $300 or $400 for expenses in
winter, or until sales open in spring. If the plants
have been handled with even average skill, the sales
should by June give a profit of at least 50 per cent on
the capital invested, supposing the plants to be sold at the
average retail rates.

I am not prepared to say what the profits on the capital
invested are when business is done on a large scale, the
articles grown, the manner of selling, and economy of
management, being so varied that in this, as in all other
occupations in life, we have all degrees of success. But the
broad fact is beyond question that the profits of the business
will compare favorably with the general run of business
in which the same capital is invested.

One fact, very flattering to our florists in this country

192 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

is, that although our plants on an average are sold lowei
than they are in England, and our new plants at less than
one-fourth of the prices obtained there, the business is
more profitable here than there. Why is this ? the reader
may doubtingly ask. Simply that our necessities with re-
gard to labor compel us to apply our common 'sense to the
work, and we cut loose from many of the established rules
with which English florists are yet stupidly trammelled.

In two of the leading London establishments, having each
about 50,000 f£et of glass, the average number of hands
employed during the year is fifty. The same quantity of
glass would be worked here in a style quite equal to
theirs, as far as the quality of the plants goes, with less
than one-third of that number. I am informed by a gen-
tleman who was for many years connected with one of
these English establishments, that the profits did not ex-
ceed 10 per cent of the sales. I am afraid that the small-
est operator of us all here would soon quit the work if it
gave no better results.

What is true of the florist's business I believe to be equal-
ly true of the nursery trade, and it is much to be doubted
if that business anywhere in all Europe is so simply yet
profitably carried on as it is in the great nurseries of
Rochester and Geneva.

CHAPTER XXXH.

SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING
PLANTS OF THE LEADING KINDS.

Antirrhinum IliajllS, (Snap Dragon), now comprises
numberless varieties, of all shades of marking in stripes,
spots, and speckles ; in colors of yellow, white, crimson,
scarlet-orange, rose, etc. A dwarf style, recently intro-

SOFT-WOODED OK BEDDING PLANTS. 193

duced, does not exceed six inches in height ; there are
also a number of double-flowered sorts, and some with
variegated foliage. Grown from seed or cuttings.

Bonvardia triphylla, — An orange-scarlet, summer-
blooming variety. For the winter-flowering sorts, see
chapter on Winter-Flowering Plants.

Begonias. — See Winter-Flowering Plants.

Calceolarias, Shrubby, — Plants blooming from June to
October in the open ground ; colors ranging from light
yellow to deep crimson. Grown from seed of cuttings.

Calceolarias, Herbaceous. — These are grown from seed
sown in August or September, and when well grown,
form plants of great beauty and interest for the green-
house, in April and May. Their pocket-like flowers are
spotted with artistic regularity, and embrace a great
range of color. Plants of the dwarf varieties do not
exceed one foot in diameter, and are favorites with all
lovers of flowers.

Canna Illdica. and varieties. — Plants of majestic
growth and of variously tinted foliage, well adapted for
grouping on lawns. The roots are dug up in fall, and kept
as we preserve Dahlias. Propagation by seeds or division
of the root. Figure 49 represents the general appearance
of these plants.

Carnations, Monthly. — These are mainly grown for their
winter-flowering qualities, although all of the numerous
varieties bloom profusely from July to November. For
description of treatment for winter flowering, see chapter
under that head. Propagation by cuttings.

Cinerarias. — The treatment is the same as for Her-
baceous Calceolarias, to which they form an excellent
contrast as green-house ornaments in the early spring
months.

Coleus Verschaffeltii and others are grown as bedding
plants for their foliage only. There are now scores of varie-

194 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

t'.t ^r

.. 49.— CANNA GIGANTBA.

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 195

ties, all of which require a temperature in winter of not lower
than 60°; with less than that there will be much difficulty
in keeping them. Being tender, they should not be
planted out for bedding purposes until the weather has
become settled and warm. Propagation by cuttings.

Caladium esculentum,— A plant with leaves of most
enormous proportions, in the form of a shield ; on well-
grown specimens the leaves measure 30 by 20 inches.
The plant attains a height of 5 or 6 feet, and is a strik-
ing object when planted on a lawn. There are numerous
other species, having leaves beautifully shaded and spot-
ted, but these are grown mainly as stove plants.

Chrysanthemums, Chinese. — These consist of three class-
es, the Large Flowering, the Pompone or Bouquet, and
the Japanese.

There is no plant that we cultivate, with the exception
perhaps, of the Dahlia, that assumes such an extended
range of color — crimson, orange, yellow, pink, white,
carmine, and purple, being blended in every conceivable
shade. Cuttings planted out in May will produce, by
topping, large, bushy plants that will bloom in October ;
they are entirely hardy in this latitude, and will stand
with slight covering, which should be put on late in
fall, say December 15th, in the extreme Northern States.
They are often lifted and potted in fall, and form
handsome green-house or parlor plants until December.

The Japan varieties, of which C. laciniatum is a type,
(see chapter on Winter Flowers) differ from the other sorts
in the peculiar formation of the petals, which are thread-
like, drooping in some varieties, like the fringe of a para-
sol. The coloring is also remarkable, being marbled and
spotted in colors of yellow and scarlet, white and rose, <fcc.
Many of the varieties have also the valuable property of
being winter-flowering.

Delphiniums, or Larkspurs. — The perennial varieties of

196

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

FR 50.— DELPHINIUM BICOLOB GRANDIFLORUM.

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 197

these can nearly all be used as continued suinmer-bloom-
ing bedding plants, if the seed is sown in a hot-bed or
green-house in February, and the plants put out in the
open border in May. Their great value consists in their
rare shades of blue, a color always scarce in flowers.
Well-known varieties are D. bicolor grandiflorum, figure
50, and D. formosum, of deep mazarine blue ground,
with distinct spot in the centre of each floret. All the
perennial species and varieties are hardy. Figure 50
shows reduced spikes and a single flower of the natural size.

Dahlias* — The climate of the Eastern and North-west-
ern States is better adapted to the early development of
the flowers of the Dahlia than warmer latitudes, and
thus we find that though the frosts occur here earlier in
fall, yet the season of flowering is of longer duration than
in districts where the fall frosts are later in coming ; hence
the climate of Boston or New York is better for Dahlias
than that of Baltimore or Washington. The perfection
that is attained, both in form and color of the Dahlia,
is now wonderful. They are divided into four classes,
namely :
BEDDING. — Dwarf, profuse-flowering sorts, that are pruned

down so that they do not exceed a foot in height.
BOUQUET or POMPONE. — The flowers of many of these

do not exceed 1^ inches in diameter, and are perfect

models in form.
EXHIBITION or SHOW. — The large-flowered, self-colored, or

tipped varieties.
FANCY. — The striped or speckled kinds.

Dahlias are propagated by division of the tuber, or (as
done by florists) by cuttings. Plant out when all danger
of frost is over, in rich soil 3 or 4 feet apart, thin out
superfluous shoots, and tie to strong stakes; lift in fall
when cut down by frost, and keep in a dry, warm cellar, or
under the stage of a green-house, only in such a position

193 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Fig. 51.— FUCHSIA— " DAT DREAM."

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 199

that they will not be dried too much. Amateurs, to be
safe, should first dry them well, and then pack them in
boxes in dry sand.

Fuchsias are the most graceful of all cultivated plants.
Nothing, in our opinion, can surpass the beauty of well-
grown specimens. They are of the easiest culture ; plants
rooted from cuttings in January can be grown with ease
to 6 feet in height in June, by due attention to repotting as
the plants make root. When grown as specimens, at
least half the soil should be rotted cow manure or rotted
refuse hops. They are also well adapted as bedding
plants for the flower-garden, in cool and partially shaded
situations. The dark-flowered varieties are best fitted for
bedding. There are also a few winter-flowering sorts
described in chapter on Winter Flowering Plants. One
of the most beautiful of the newer varieties, " Day Dream,"
is represented in figure 51.

Geraniums, botanically speaking, are nearly all hardy,
herbaceous plants, a short list of which will be found un-
der that head ; but Geraniums popularly known as such
are those that are about to be described, and we believe
that a large majority of our readers will agree with us in
using the popular name, rather than the botanical one of
Pelargonium.

Geranium* Zonale.-r-Tliis is perhaps the best known
type of the class, so called from the leaves of many of the
varieties being marked with a dark band or zone. This is
the bedding plant, par excellence, of the easiest propaga-
tion by cuttings, always healthy and of free growth in
almost all soils and situations, blooming in summer
from. June to October, and, if desired, it will continue
its flowering in the green-house to June again. The va-
rieties are endless, ranging in every shade of white, rose,
crimson, scarlet, carmine, &c., &c. At the present time there
are a dozen or more of double varieties, though as yet only

200

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Fi-r. S3 — GEKA?auM— " INCOMPARABLE."

SOFT-WOODED OK BEDDING PLANTS. 201

of dark colors ; but there is little doubt that a short time
will give us double sorts of all the shades we have in the
single. A striped variety of L' Incomparable was pro-
duced in 1867. Figure 52.

Geraniums, Variegated-leared, — These are divided in-
to five classes, namely, u Golden margined," " Silver mar-
gined," " Golden tricolor," '• Silver tricolor," and
"Bronzed."

GOLDEN MARGINED. — This class, of which the variety
called " Golden Belt " is the type, has the margin of the
leaf golden yellow to one-third its depth, with occasional-
ly a dark zone, the part of the leaf toward the footstalk
being green. The flowers of this class are usually scarlet
or crimson ; they are good bedders in cool soils.

SILVER MARGINED. — These are generally of strong
growth, equal to the Zonale. One of the finest of this sec-
tion is the Mountain of Snow, a variety having half of
the leaf nearly white, with large trusses of bright scarlet
flowers.

GERANIUMS, GOLDEN TRICOLORS. — These are grown al-
most exclusively for their leaves, which in their wonderful
beauty are triumphs of horticultural art. The bands of
yellow, crimson, orange, and carmine, on a ground-work of
green, rival, while they somewhat resemble, the tints of the
rainbow. A well-known and beautiful type of this class is
the variety Mrs. Pollock, fig. 53, which with us has grown
vigorously in the open border for the past two seasons.

GERANIUMS, SILVER TRICOLORS. — These are belted with
white, carmine, and crimson, on a green ground, forming
a beautiful contrast to the preceding. A well-known type
of this class is " Moonbeam."

GERANIUMS, BRONZE-LEAVED. — An unique class, having
the ground color of the leaves yellow, with a dark red or
brown zone. The flowers of most of these are scarlet, and
0*

202

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Fig. 53.— GERANIUM— " MRS. POLLOCK."

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 203

are borne in great profusion. About the finest of this
section is known as Golden Model.

GERANIUMS, IVY-LEAVED. — Of these there are now many
beautiful varieties. They are all climbing or trailing plants,
some of which, Peltatumelegans, for example, have glossy
green, wax-like leaves, with a black zone ; others, like the
Holly Wreath, have leaves margined with white, as in the
silver margined zonales. The flowers are borne in large
trusses of white, carmine, or lilac. All the class are well
adapted for baskets or for trellis work.

GERANIUMS, SCENTED-LEAVED. — These embrace plants of
widely different appearance, such as " Apple," " Lemon,"
"Citron," "Rose," "Peppermint," and "Nutmeg-
scented," with many others. The rose and lemon-scented
are extensively used for mixing with flowers in making
bouquets, &c.

Hollyhock* — For extensive grounds this is an exceed-
ingly showy flower. The flower spike attains a height of
six or eight feet, covered with flowers to the extent of
two feet. The varieties embrace a great range of color —
white, scarlet, yellow, orange, crimson, rose, maroon, &c. —
many having these colors curiously blended. The Holly-
hock seeds freely from double flowers, the colors in almost
every case coming true from seeds. Seeds are to be sown
when ripe in September, and the plants, if slightly pro-
tected by covering with hay or leaves, will bloom profuse-
ly the next season.

Heliotropes* — These comprise but little range of color,
being mostly shades of lilac and blue, some of the newer
sorts, however, being nearly white. What they want-
in gaudiness of color, they well compensate for in
their delicacy of fragrance. The varieties are numerous,
but many of them are not very distinct. Those forming
the greatest contrast are Boule de Neige (blush white),
and Purpurinc, (dark violet.)

204 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citriodora] is largely grown for
the fragrance of the leaves, which are indispensable as a
" green " in summer bouquets. The plant is deciduous,
(losing its leaves in winter), and may be kept under the
stage of the green-house, or in the cellar during winter.
The Lemon Verbena makes a highly ornamental plant
when grown like a standard Rose, that is, by allowing
only one shoot to grow to a height of five or six feet, then
permitting it to branch out at the top.

Lantanas* — These require more heat, to keep them in
good condition during the winter, than do most bedding
plants, and for this reason are not so common as many
others less worthy of cultivation. The colors are
orange, yellow, pink, scarlet, crimson, and white, blend-
ing and changing to a remarkable degree. Often
different flowers growing on the same plant will be
entirely unlike. Plants from cuttings set out in May or
June attain a diameter of four or five feet by fall, bloom-
ing profusely throughout the entire summer and fall
months.

Lobelia gracilis, and its varieties, are all low-growing
plants, mostly with blue and white flowers, though some of
the varieties of later date are lilac or rose color. They
are admirably adapted for the front lines of "ribbon bord-
ers," and for hanging baskets or vases ; they bloom pro-
fusely from June to November, and may be easily kept
as parlor plants, if desired.

Mi mil I US luteus (or Monkey Flower) comprises numer-
ous varieties, with white, sulphur, and yellow grounds,
beautifully spotted with crimson, scarlet, pink, &c. They
luxuriate in damp, shady situations, and bloom profusely
during the early summer months. A double variety, call-
ed Hose-upon-hose, is a very remarkable sort.

"Hi mil his moschatllS (Musk Plant), is grown for its
odor of musk, which ths leaves have in a marked degree.
Flowers yellow.

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 205

Pent Siemens, (Hybrids). — Plants yet comparatively lit-
tle known. The plant in general appearance somewhat
resembles the Antirrhinum (or Snap Dragon) but as-
sumes an entirely different range of color, the flowers
being carmine, violet, crimson, vermilion, and other shades
of red, with a distinctly marked white throat in most of
the varieties. They bloom throughout the summer
months, and may be kept with half hardy plants in a cold
frame in winter.

Petunias, (double and single) are now so well known
that a description is hardly necessary. The single varie-
ties, when wanted for bedding, make finer plants if raised
from seed sown in January and February than from cut-
tings. The double varieties, of course, are mainly raised
from cuttings, but are more used by the florists as pot
plants than for bedding purposes, as they flower less pro-
fusely and are generally less showy than the single sorts.

The most valued of the single sorts are those with white
grounds, marked with crimson blotches or stripes ; those
of the double, with crimson ground with white-edged pet-
als. There are numerous varieties kept to name, but the
majority of them are of only local interest.

Pinks, Florist's. — Hardy, evergreen, herbaceous plants,
blooming in June. The prevailing colors are maroon, crim-
son, rose, and white. They are much used in their season
for summer bouquets, the flowers keeping well, besides
being all of a rich clove-scented fragrance.

Pinks, Mule* — Similar in general character to the preced-
ing, but having smaller flowers, entirely distinct in form
and color. The varieties are few, and are known as the
crimson, rose, white, and striped sorts.

Pyrethrum Golden Feather.— A new plant, a "sport"
from the well-known Pyrethrum Parthenium, or Fever-
few, having leaves, as the name indicates, of a golden
shade. For baskets during winter or spring, or for a ribbon

206 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

x

line plant, to contrast with Coleus or Achyranthes during
the spring or fall months it is valuable. It, however, loses
its rich shade of yellow during the hot weather, which
rather mars its utility for bedding purposes.

Pelargoniums. — If I was confined to grow but a single
genus of plants for conservatory decoration, the Pelargo-
nium would be chosen. Nothing can exceed the richness
of coloring of the flowers ; an attempt to describe it would
be a failure. They are classed as " show " and " fancy "
varieties. The " show " are the strong-growing and large-
flowered section ; the " fancy " are those with smaller
leaves, dwarfer growth, and flowers of smaller size, but
having the property of flowering later in the season than
the others. The colors of the Pelargonium are carmine,
vermilion, orange-crimson, blackish-maroon, and white,
so disposed in many varieties as to resemble the work of
the painter, rather than the work of nature. To be grown
in perfection they should be shifted into larger pots as soon
as the roots begin to mat the outside of the balls, the
shoots pinched back until they begin to set their flower
buds in March or April, when they must be placed close to
the light, and never allowed to wilt for want of water.
Plants struck from cuttings in January may be grown to
a diameter of 2 feet by May, but for. specimens of extra
size, plants a year old are necessary. They should be kept
in pots and under glass during summer, as they are very
liable to injury from continued rains.

Stocks, Intermediate, crimson and white. Seed of these
sown in September, and potted in October, shifting as nec-
essary through the winter, will make fine plants, to bloom
in May. These may be planted out in the open border,
and will continue in bloom until July. Ten "Week's Stocks
are also effective as border plants, and may be sown in the
hot-bed in March and planted out in May. The variety
of these is now very large.

SOFT-WOODED OR BEDDING PLANTS. 207

Salvias, (Scarlet and Blue Sage). — No plant that is used
for the flower border holds a higher reputation amongst
amateurs than these, particularly the former. Its bright
scarlet, feather-like plumes are unrivalled from July to
October, and in warmer latitudes continue for months
later. It is best raised from seeds sown in the green-house
or hot-bed in March and planted out in May. The blue
sage (S. patens) seeds very sparingly, and is generally
raised from cuttings. Its shade of blue is unsurpassed by
any flower of the garden, but the flowers drop quickly
and it never shows the density of spike of the scarlet
sorts.

Tuberose. — See special chapter.

Tropaeolum. Hybrids. (Nasturtiums.) — The dwarf sorts
of these are very desirable, blooming without intermission
from June to October. The scarlet varieties, in particular,
are exceedingly showy ; when grown on poor, dry soil or
among rocks they show to much better advantage, as rich
soil causes them to produce leaves so abundantly as to hide
the flowers. They are for this reason well adapted for
vases, as they stand heat and drought well. There are
some beautiful yellow varieties marked with crimson ; also
some of a dark maroon, almost black, but, as we have be-
fore said, the bright scarlet sorts are most desirable.

Violets. — See special chapter.

Verbenas. — See special chapter.

Zinnias, Double. — Although these are now common
enough as annual plants, their great value as ornaments for
the flower garden deserves brief notice. To have them de-
velop in perfection they should be sown under glass in
March or April and planted out in May. The first flowers
usually do not come double, but towards the end of sum-
mer, if the seed be of a good "strain," flowers will be
produced rivalling the Dahlia in symmetry, and of varied
and novel shades of coloring.

208 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

PROPAGATING SUCCULENT PLANTS IN SUMMER.

The following, which appeared in the American Horti-
cultural Annual for 1868, maybe appropriately introduced
here:

Every one who has attempted the propagation of plants
by cuttings during the high temperature we have in the
months of July and August, is aware of the great difficulty
experienced in doing so, no matter what system or process
is resorted to. In those months plants of a succulent na-
ture, such as Carnations, Geraniums, Petunias, etc., etc.,
grow rapidly, and the shoots formed are in consequence
watery and soft, so that, when detached from the plant and
used for propagation at that hot season of the year, when
the thermometer will average 75° or 80° in the shade, the
chances are that few will root, but will, as gardeners term
it, " damp off" in a few days after being put in as cut-
tings. In ordinary cases, with those having the means
of propagating plants, this difficulty in rooting cuttings
during the summer months is not of much importance, as
florists usually reserve stock enough to enable them to
produce all the cuttings they require at the proper season
for propagating, namely September, October, and Novem-
ber. But with amateurs, who have but a plant or two of
some favorite variety and who wish safely to increase it,
or to the florist wishing to make the most of some valua-
ble importation, this (to us) new practice is likely to prove
of some benefit. The increasing taste for the new kinds
of variegated Pelargoniums induced us to import a num-
ber of the tricolor section, of which the now comparatively
well-known sort Mrs. Pollock is a type. These we found
to grow rather slowly, and to increase them to the best
advantage became a matter of consideration. Layering
in the usual way, by bending them down to the ground,
was, of course, in plants of that style of growth, all but
impracticable. To have taken off cuttings would have

SOFT-WOODED OK BEDDING PLANTS.

209

not only farther enfeebled already feeble plants, but the
prospect of rooting these cuttings in hot weather was
nearly hopeless ; so a compromise was decided on, which,
for want of a better term, we call " layering in the air."
As shown in figure 54, the shoot is " tongued " in the

Fig. 54. — MANNER OP TONGUING THE GERANIUM.

manner of an ordinary layer. This has the effect to arrest
the upward flow of the sap at the incision, which, of course,
acting to some extent as if the shoot had been taken off,
induces a branching out below the "layer," providing
shoots for further operations. But the effect on the vigor
of the plant is much better than if the layer or shoot had
been detached ; for, by the time it takes to get hardened
and form a callus, the shoots branching out below the cut
are fit to supply the loss of foliage sustained when the

210 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

layer or cutting is detached. The cutting or "layer" is
in condition to be cut off in five or six days from the time
it has been tongued, and will be found not only to be
healed up, and in such a condition that it will quickly emit
roots, but the whole cutting presents a well-ripened,
firm condition, not easily described, but readily detected
by the practical propagator. When detached, they should
be treated in all respects as ordinary cuttings, duly
watered, and shaded for a few days until .they strike out
roots, when they are potted off in small pots in the usual
manner. During the unprecedently wet summer that we
had in 1867, we found that many of the plants of the va-
riegated Pelargoniums and variegated Rose Geranium
" Lady Plymouth," operated on in this manner, produced
roots half an inch in length, as they hung in the air ; but
this was of no special advantage, as we found that those
that merely healed up and callused made just as fine plants
as those that had formed roots before being cut off.

Plants thus formed make much finer plants than regular
layers, as they are to all intents and purpose cuttings, and
consequently, unlike layers, are not long dependent on the
parent plant for support, being indebted little or nothing
to the old plant during their development. By this sys-
tem of propagation we have had the satisfaction this sea-
son of doubling our stock of many rare and valuable plants,
which it would have been perfectly impracticable to do in
the usual manner during the hot months.

GEEEX-HOUSE AND STOVE PLANTS.

211

CHAPTER XXXTTT.

GREEN-HOUSE AND STOVE, OR HOT-HOUSE, PLANTS.

SELECT LIST OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

The following list includes plants which should be kept at
a night temperature ranging from 40 to 50 degrees. For
a more extended list, see special green-house catalogues.

Abelia floribunda.
" rupestris.
Abutilon Santanta.
" insigne.
" Mesapotarmcmn.
Achyranthes Verschaffeltii.

" Gilsonii.

Acacia angustifolia.
" armata.
" pubescens.
Achimenes Boothii violacca.
coccinea superba.
elegans.
grandiflora.
pedunculata.
Wagnerii.
Agapanthus umbellatus.
Agave Americana.

" " variegata.

Antirrhinum (Hybrids in var.)
Alonsoa elegans.
Aloysia citriodora.
Ardisia crenulata.
" " alba.

" serrulata.
Artemisia argentea.
Azalea Indica.
Asclepias curassavica.
Beaufoilia decussata.
Babiana, of sorts.
Bignonia jasminoides.
" " rosea.

alba.

Bouvardia compacta. — -
Laura,
leiantha.

" splendens.
" floribunda.
" grandiflora.
longiflora alba.
" rosea.
" Hogarth.
" triphylla.
Brugmansia Knightii.
Burchellia capensis.
" speciosa.
Cereus flagelliformis.
" grandiflorus.
«* Smithii.
Calla (Richardia) ^thiopica.

" " " nana.

Camellia Japonica (and Hybrids).
Canna discolor.
" Indica.
" Van Houttii.
Centaurea candidissima.

" compacta.
Oestrum aurantiacum.
" laurifolium.
Chorozema cordata elegans.

" varia.
Cineraria maritima.

u amelloides and Hybrids.
Convolvulus Mauritanicus.
Clerodendron Japonicum.
Clethra arborea.

212

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Clivia nobilis.
Correa alba.

" " delicata.
" speciosa.
Coronilla glauca.

" " variegata.

Crowea saligna.
Rocbea falcata.
Cyclamen Atkinsii.
" Persicura.
" u album.

" " rubrum.

Daphne Indica.

" odora rubra.
" " variegata.

Diosma alba.
Diplacus puniceus.
Dionaea muscipula.
Epacris Alteanii.
" coccinea.
" Cunninghainii.
" delicatissima.
" densiflora.
" grandiflora.

" rubra.

" impressa.
u " carnea.

Epipliyllum elegans.

" formosissimum.

" speciosum.

" truncatum.

" " Atkinsii.

Eriealacvis.

ventricosa.
Willmorei.
gracilis.
persoluta.

«* alba.
~\Erythrina Crista-galli.

" herbacea.
Eugenia myrtifolia.
Eucharis Amazon ica.
— ~ Eupatorium elegans.

" fruticosum.
Fabiana imbricata.
Ferraria antherosa.

Fuschias (Hybrids in variety).
Gardenia florida.

" radicans.
Gardoquia Hookerii.
Geranium (Hybrids in variety).
Gazania splendens (and Hybrids).
Heliotropium corymbosum (and

Hybrids in variety).
Hydrangea Hortensia.
" Japonica.
" " var.

" deutzifolia.
Indigofera decora.
Inga pulcherrima.
Jasminum grandiflorum.

" Sambac.
Justicia carnea.
Kennedya ovata.

" " alba.

" Marryattae.

Lachenalia quadricolor.
" superba.
" tricolor.

Lantana Adolphe Haas (Hybrids).
aurantiaca superba.
ne plus ultra.
Intea carminata.

Md. Reudatler.

rubra lutea.

xanthina superba.
Lapageria rosea.
Lecbenaultia Formosa.

violaceum. H- Libonia floribuuda. (Figure 55.)
Lobelia Eriuus.

" " speciosa.

Linum trigynuin.
Litbospcrrnum fruticosum.
Lopbospermum scandens.
Magnolia fuscata.
Mahernia glabrata odorata.
Manettia bicolor.

cordifolia.

Mandevilla suaveolens.
Maurandia Barclayana.

u " rosca.

" u alba.

Metrosideros robusta.

GREEN-HOUSE AND STOVE PLANTS. 213

Fig1. 55.— LIBONIA FLOEEBUNDA.

214

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Mimulus luteus vars.
Myrtus communis.

" " double flowered.

" " variegated.

Nerium Oleander.
Pyretbrum Parthcnium pleno.
Passiflora hybrida.

" caerulea racemosa.
Pelargonium (Hybrids in variety).
Ruellia formosa.
Rhyncbospermum jasminoides.
Sal via fulgcns.

gesneraeflora.

Liliana.

patens.

" alba,
splendens.

Salvia splendens Gordon!.
Senecio maritima. ^

Solanum capsicastrum.

" " fol. var.

" Pseudo-capsicum.

" " fol. var.

Sollya beterophylla.
Sparmannia Africana.
Stevia serrata. «^^
" " grandiflora.

" compacta.
Tremaudra ericifolia.
Veronica Andersoni.

" u Yariegata.

" Lindleyana.

•" splendida rubra.

" imperialis.

ABRIDGED LIST OP STOVE OR HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

This list comprises plants which should be kept at
night temperature ranging from 55 to 65 degrees.

./Eebmea discolor.
" fulgens.

JEscl^nanthus grandiflorus.
" speciosus.

" zebrinus.

Alternantbera amcena.

" spathulata.

" tricolor.

u versicolor.

Allamanda catbartica.

Scbotii.

Alocasia metallica.
" argyroneura.
" Bataviensis.
" Lowii.
" Javanicum.
Anthurium grande.
" regale.
Aplielandra aurantiaca.

" grandis.
Aralia leptophylla.
Ardisia crenulata.
" " alba.

Begonia argyrostigma.

" coccinea.

" Decaisneana.

" incarnata.

" fuscboides.

" " alba.

" Saudersoni.

" marmorata.

" Miranda.

" nebulosa.

" Nigricans.

" Rex.

11 splendida.
Bertolonia maculata.

" gnttata.
Billbergia rosea.
Bignonia venusta.
Bonapartea juncea.
Bouganvillea spectabilis.
Brexia cbrysopbylla.
Caladium amabile.

" argyrites.
" BelleymeL

GKEEN-HOUSE AND STOVE PLANTS. 215

Fig. 56.— CLERODENDRON BALFOUIil.

216

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Caladiuin bicolor.
" BroDgniarti.
" Chantini.
" esculentum.
" marmoratum.
" pictum.
" regale.
" Verschaffdtii.
" Wightii.
Centradenia rosea.

" " floribunda.

" " grandifolia.

Cissus discolor.
" argentea.
Clerodendron Balfouri. (Fig. 56.)

" splendens.

Coleus Verscliaffeltii.
" Vietchii.
1 ' atropurpureus.
" Blumei.
" " laciniata.
" marmorata.
Corubretum purpureum.
Croton discolor.

" elegantissimum.
" pictum.
tc variegatura.
Dieffenbachia Barquiniana.
Dracaena Cooperi.
" Draco.
" ferrea.
" maculata.
" spectabilis.
" terminalis.
Dichorisandra inosaica.
Dipladenia nutans.

picta.

" urophylla.

Eucharis Amazonica.
Echites amabilis.

" rubrovenosa.
Eranthemum leuconeurum.
" rubrovenium.

Euphorbia jacquiniflora.

" splendens.
Gesneria bulbosa.
" amabilis.

Gesneria excelsa.

" Herbert!.

" hybrida.

" oblongata.

" Bpendeus.

" zebrina.
Gloriosa Plantii.
Gloxinia (Hybrids in var.)
Goldfussia anisopbylla.
Goody era discolor.
Hoya carnosa.
" u fol. var.
" imperialis.
Ipomaea Horsfalliae.

u insignis.

" Learii.
Ixora blanda.
" coccinea.
" crocata.
Justicia speciosa.
Lnsiandra splendens.
Lapageria rosa.

" " alba.

Maranta fasciata.

" sanguinca.

" Warscewiczii.

" zebrina.
Medinilla magnifica.
Monochaetum volubile.
Nepenthes distillatoria.

" Rafflesiana.

Passiflora alata.

" Baraquiniana.

" kermesina.

" racemosa princepa.
Philodendron Lindcnianum.
Plumbago rosea.
Poinsettia pulcherrima.
Pothos argyraea.
Rogiera amoena.

" thyrsiflora.

" gratissima.
Rondeletia anomale.

" speciosa.

Rhyncospermum jasminoides,
Ruellia formosa.
Russelia floribunda.

ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, ETC. 217

Russelia juncea.
Sanchezia nobilis variegata.
Solandra grandiflora.
Sonerilla margaritacea.
Sphaerostema marmorata.
Stephanotis floribunda.
Tacsonia sanguinea.

" pinnatistipula.
Tielanthera ficoidca tricolor.

Tillandsia tenuifolia.
Torenia Asiatica.
Tradescentia discolor,
" zebrina,

Tydaea grnndis,
" venosa.
Tapina variegata.
Urceolina aurea.

CHAPTER XXXIY.

ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS, PERENNIAL AND BIEN-
NIAL PLANTS, ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS.

ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS.

Subjoined is an abridged list of leading annuals and
biennials, suited for summer decoration of the flower gar-
den and for green-house culture. For description, see de-
scriptive seed lists.

Alyssum, Sweet (Korriga maritima).
Amaruntus sanguineus.

" tricolor.
Anagallis graudiflora.
Aster, German.
Balsam, Camellia flowered.

" Rose.
Calceolaria bybrida.

" " nana.

Calliopsis marmorata.
" Drummondii.
" Atkinsonii.
" mosseux.
Campanula Speculum.

Lorii.

" media.
Cineraria bybrida.
Clarkia elegans.
" pulcUelia.
*' Integripetala.

Collinsia bicolor.

" grandiflora.
Convolvulus major.

" tricolor.
Datura bumilis, fl. pi.

" Cartbageniensis.

" meteloides (Wrightii).
Diantlms Cbinensis.
" Heddewigi.
" laciniatus.
Digitalis purpurea, superba.
Dolichos Lablab.
Downingia (Cliutonia) pnlchella.
Erysimum Pcroffskianum.
Eschscboltzia crocea.
Gaillardia grandiflora hybrida.

" coccinea nana.
Gilia tricolor.
Gfomphrena globos:i.
Helichrysum bracteatum.

218

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Lupinus hybridus atrococcincus.

" tricolor elegaus.
Lychnis Haagcana.
Mirabilis Jalapa.
Mimulus maculosus.

" eardinalis.
Mathiola anuua, hybrida.
Mimosa pudica.
Neinophila insignia.

" maculata.
Nigella Damascena.

" Hispanica.
Phlox Drummondii.
Portulaca grandiflora.
Reseda odorata.
Rodanthe Manglesii. .
Ricinus communis, minor.

Salpiglossis coccineus.
Sapouaria Calabrica.
Scabiosii atropurpurea.

" " candidissima.

Schizanthus Grahamii.
Tagetes patula erecta.

<k signata pumila.
Thunbcrgia alata.

aurantiaca.

Tropzeolum peregrinum.
u coccincum.

Vicia Gerardi.
Viola tricolor hybrida.
Whitlavia grandiflora.
Xeranthemum annuum.
Zinnia elegans.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

The interest in hardy herbaceous plants is rapidly in-
creasing. Space will permit a list of only a few of the
most showy and interesting kinds.

Achillea tomentosa.

" Ptarmica-pleno.
Aeonitum Napellus.
Adonis vernalis.
Alyssum saxatile.

" " fol. variegatis.

Auchusa Italica.
Anemone Japonica.

" hyjmda.
vitifolia.

alba.
Aqu legia alpina.

Canadensis.
Durandii, flore-plcno.
glandulosa.
Skinneri.
Arabis albida.

" " fol. variegatis.
Arundo Donax.

" " variegata.

Asclepias incarnata.
" tuberosa.
Asphodelus luteus.
Aster discolor.

Astilbe Japonica.

" " variegata.

Baptisia austral is.
Bulbocodium vernum.
Campanula alpina.

Carpatica.

garganica.

" alba.

grandiflora.

latifolia.

nitida alba.

persicaefolia.

versicolor.
Catananche coerulea.
Gentaurea dealb.ita.
Gentranthus ruber.
Cerastium tomentosum.
Chelone glabra.

" integrifolia.
-Colchicum autumuale.

" " album.

Comaropsis fragarioides.
Couvallaria majalis.
Convolvulus Mauritanicus.

ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, ETC. 219

Coreopsis grandiflora.
Cornus Canadensis.
Coronilla montana.
Corydalis bulbosa.
" cava lutea.
" nobilis.
Crucianella stylosa-
Cypripedium acaule.

44 spectabile.

Daphne Cneorum.
Dactylis glomerata.
Delphinium Barlowii.
«« Belladonna.

44 bicolor grandiflorum.

44 elatum plenum.
" formosum.

giganteurn.
" Hendersonii.

" pulchellum.

Dianthus deltoides.

" Verschaffeltii.
Dictamnus Fraxinella.

44 " alba.

Dicentra spectabilis.

" . " alba.

Dodecatheon Meadia.
Epimedium alpinum.

44 macranthum.
Epipactis latifolia.
Eryngium amethystinum.
Erythronium Americanuin.

44 Dens-canis.
Eupatorium ageratoides.
44 purpureum.
Euphorbia amygdaloides variegata.
Funkia grandiflora.
" lancifolia.
" Sieboldiana,
Galium boreale.
Geutiana acaulis.
44 Bavarica.
44 Fortunii.
" purpurea.
" verna.
GeranitLm affine.

" argenteum.
«« Lamberti.

Geranium Lancastriense.
" pratense.
" " flore-pleno.

Geum Chilense atrosanguineum.
Gnaphalium margaritaceum.

u orientalis.

Gyn eri um argenteum.
Gypsophila acutifolia.

" repens.
Hedysarum coronarium.
Helleborus niger.
»* viridis.
Hemerocallis flava.

" graminea.
Hepatica triloba alba.
Hesperis matronalis alba plena.
Hieracium aurantiacum.
Hypericum nummularium.

" tomentosum^
Ibeiis saxatile.
Iris alata.
" Attica.
'* bicolor.
" cristata.
" elegans.
" flavescens.
" formosa.
" livida.
" odorata.
•• pumila alba.
" Susiana.
" versicolor.
" Virginica.
Lamium molle.
Lathyrus grandiflorus.
44 latifolius.
" tuberosus.

Lepachys (Rudbeckia) Columnaria.
Leucojum vernum.
Ligularia arnicoides.
Linaria alpina.
Linum alpinum.
" perenne.
Lotus corniculatus.

44 " flore-pleno.

Lupinus pplyphyllus.
Lychnis Chaledonica,

220

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Lychnis Cbaledonica alba plena.
" " cocciuea plena.

" dioica alba plena.
" Flos-cucuH rubra plena.
Viscaria alba.

" rubra plena.
Itysiinachia nummularia.
Lythrum alatum.
Melissa officinalis variegata.

" rotundifolia, fol. var.
Mcntha sylvestris, fol. yar.
Muscari botryoides.
Myosotis alpestris.
CEnothera acaulis.
Ornithogalum aureum.

" py ram i dale.

Orobus angustifolius.
" luteus.
" vernus.

Pseonia herbacea and Hybrids.
Papaver alpinum.
" bracteatum.
" orientale concolor.
Phlox decussata, suffruticosa, and

Hybrids.

" subulata nivalis.
" " procumbens.

" setaceus.
" vernus.
Polemonium reptans.
Potentilla alba.

'* argentea.
" bicolor grandiflora.
" grandiflora cocciuea.
Pulmonaria Virginica.
" saccharata.
" Siberica.
Pyrethrum uliginosum and

Hybrids.

Pyrola rotundifolia.
Rudbcckia Drummondii.

" laciniata.

Sagittaria sagittifolia.
Salvia argentea.

" nemorosa.
Sanguinaria Canadensis.

Saxifraga afflnis.
" aizoides.
" crustata.
" geranioides.
Scrophularia mellifera, fol. rar.
Scutellaria galericulata.
Sedum acre.

glaucum.
grandiflorum.
micranthum.
rupestre.
Sieboldii.
Soldanella alpina.

" montana.
Solidago altissima.
" Canadensis.
" odora.
Spiraea digitata.

" filipendula plena.
" Japonica.
" trifoliata.
" Ulmaria, fol. var.
Symphytum orientale.
Tbalictrum alpinum.

" anemonoides.
" glaucesceus.
" lucidum.
Thymus oflflcinalis, fol. var.
Tournefortia heliotropoides.
Tradescantia Virginica alba.
Tricyrtis hirta.
Trillium atropurpureum.

" grandiflorum.
Trollius Americanus.
" Asiaticus.
" orientalis.
" Tauricus.
Uvularia amplexicaulis.

" graudiflora.
Valeriana montana.
Veratrum album.
" nijjrum.
Veronica amethystina.
" canescens.
" elegans.
«* saxatile.

ANNUALS, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS, ETC. 221

HARDY ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.

Amygdalus nana.

" " alba.

Azalea nudiflora.
Berbcris Canadensis.
" Nepalensis.
" purpurea.
Rubus Japonicus alba.
Caly can thus florid us.
" praecox.

Chionanthus Virginicus.
Cytisus elongatus.
44 capitatus.
Cotoneaster micropliylla.
Crataegus pyracantha.
Daphne Cneorum.

u Mezereurn.
Deutzia crenata plena.
" gracilis.
44 u fol. var.
41 scabra.
Euonymus Araericanus.

44 Europaeus.
Forsythia viridissima.
Halesia tetraptera.
Hibiscus Syriacus (Althaea frutex),

vars.

Hypericum Calycinum.
44 Kalmianura.

Hydrangea deutziaefolia.
" Hortensia.
" " fol. var.

44 Japonica.

Jasminum offlcinale (requires pro-
tection in winter in
Northern States).

Kalmia latifolia.
Kerria Japonica.

fol. var.
Lonicera Tartarica.

alba.

Berberis Aquifoliium.
Magnolia conspicua.
44 purpurea.
44 Soulangeana.
Philadelphus coronarius.

4* nanus.

Pyrus Japonica.

" " alba.

Rhododendron Catawbiense, and

Hybrids.
Ribes sanguinea.

" aurca.
Syringa vulgaris.

44 " alba.

" " purpurea pleno.

" Fersica.
" " alba.

Spiraea prunifolia, fl. pleno.
" callosa.

alba,

" Douglasii.
" Reevesii, fl. pleno.
Viburnum Opulus.

" " plicatum

Weigela rosea.

" " fol. var.

" " alba.

" amabilis.
" floribunda.
'* hortensis.

HARDY CLIMBING SHRUBS.

Akebia quinata.
Ampelopsis bipinnata.
" hederacea.
" tricolor.
Aristolochia Sipho.

" totnentosa.

Bignonia atrosanguinea.
44 grandiflora.

Bignonia radicans.
Clematis Flammula.

' Titicella.

41 4< rubra.

" 44 alba.

[Tender. Protect in Winter.

44 azurea grandiflora.

44 " Sophia.

222

rUACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Clematis lanuginosa.

" Jackmanii.
Hedera Canariensis.

" helix.

" fol. variegata.

" Roegneriana.

" Tanrica.
Lonicera aurea.

" Belgica.

" bracypoda aurea reticu-
lata.

Louicera Halliana.

" Periclymena.

" Japonica.

" sempervirens.
Periploca Graeca.
Wistaria frutescens.

" " alba.

" Sinensis.

tc " alba.

" magnifica.

CHAPTER XXXV.

DIARY OF OPERATIONS FOR THE YEAR 1867—68.

The followiug diary of operations and observations of
temperature was taken by my foreman, John White, at
our green-houses at Bergen City, N. J., from September
9th, 1867, to September 9th, 1868. Although it necessari-
ly contains many repetitions and matters of minor inter-
est, it will be found very valuable as a guide to the begin-
ner, as well as for convenient reference to those of mature
experience. We, ourselves, find such a diary an excellent
monitor, as the importance of dates in all horticultural
operations cannot be over-estimated. The record of the
thermometer is placed at the end of the notes for each
day, the first figure giving the temperature in the shade
at 6 A. M., and the second that at 6 P.M.

SEPTEMBER, 1868.

9th. — Lifted and potted Bouvardias, preparatory to
planting them out again on the benches for winter. It is
of the utmost importance that Bouvardias should be pot-
ted early, — not later than the middle of September, in this
section. If left until cool weather sets in, they will not

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 223

root freely in the pots, being plants that luxuriate in a
high temperature. The plants are kept shaded and water-
ed carefully, for a week or so after being potted, and it is
better to keep them outside until they are placed perma
nently in the green-house. Also, put in cuttings of
Variegated Geraniums of various kinds this day. Topped
Carnations, for the purpose of producing suitable cuttings
in October ; it is now too late to cut back those that are
wanted for winter flowers. Collected seeds of Salvia
patens and S. splendens. Cleared off old plants of
Pansies, to allow the self-sown seedlings light and air.
CO0— 62°.

10th. — Continued potting Bouvardias. Put in cuttings
of Zonale Geraniums; also, a few cuttings of those Ver-
benas of which our stock is short. 61° — 64°.

12th. — Repotted Double White Primulas, for winter
flowering. Sowed Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce seed
in open ground. 59° — 55°.

13th. — Repotted Fuchsias for stock. Layered Straw-
berries in 2-inch pots, to make a plantation next month.
54°— 60°.

14th. — Began propagating general collection of Verbe-
nas ; cuttings in excellent order. Collected flower seeds
of all kinds. 58°— 59°.

Wth. — Repotted Euphorbia, Poinsettia, and other plants
for winter flowering. Lifted and potted stock Geraniums.
55°— 59°.

17th. — Began propagating a general collection of bed-
ding plants, and as the weather is getting somewhat hot-
ter, precaution is taken to douse the walks, benches, and
all parts of the propagating houses with water, to reduce
the temperature. 65° — 75°.

18th. — Collected seeds of Campanulas, Lychnis, Del-
phiniums, and other hardy herbaceous plants, and sowed
at once ; nearly all seeds of this character germinate
better if sown when gathered. Cut back Centaurea and

224 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

Cineraria, to produce young shoots to be taken for cut-
tings, a month or so later. 69° — 74°.

IM.— The same. 72°— 75°.

20th. — Budded Roses and potted off in 2-inch pots the
Verbena cuttings that were put in on the 10th and 12th
inst. Result excellent. No fire heat has as yet been used
in propagating. 68°— 70°.

22c£ — Planted those Bouvardias that were potted on the
9th inst., on the benches of the green-house. They are
taken from the pots and planted in 6 inches of soil, at a
distance of from 8 to 12 inches apart, or near enough for
the plants to touch. The distance apart is regulated by
the size of the plants. Began to propagate second and
largest lot of Verbenas, being rather safer at this date
than the previous ones of the 10th and 12th, on account
of a general lower temperature. Gathered Verbenas,
Salvias, and other flower seeds, that are in better state
now than they were two weeks ago. 52° — 52°.

23d. — The same as yesterday. 42°— 51°.

24tfA. — Put in main crop of Verbena cuttings from open
ground at this date. Fumigated green-houses for the
first time this season ; will continue to do so at least
twice every week until the green-houses are again empty
of plants, the order being that aphis or green fly must
never be seen. 43° — 55°.

25£A. — Lifted Carnations with balls of earth from the
open ground, and planted them in 5 or 6 inches of soil on
the benches of the green-houses for winter flowering. We
are enabled to lift them in this way from the peculiarity of
our soil, which is stiff and clayey ; on most soils this prac-
tice would not be practicable; if the soil did not adhere
to the roots it would be necessary to first pot them, as in
the case of Bouvardias. Put in cuttings of Variegated
and Zonale Geraniums for main crop. 58° — 60°.

2Qth. — Continued putting in Verbena and other cut

•DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 225

tings. First (slight) fire used in propagating house. Shaded
and watered freely Carnations put in yesterday. 40° — 44°.

27th. — Planted out in the benches Eupatoriums, Stev-
ias, &c., that have been kept in pots all summer. 42° —
50°.

28th. — Put in cuttings of Coleus, Salvias, Centaureas,
&c., from outside. Budded Roses. 42°— 49°.

30th. — Put all tender plants in the houses, as from
about this date there is danger from frost. Lifted clumps
of double Neapolitan Violet, and planted them at distanc-
es of 9 or 10 inches apart, on the benches of the green-
house, in the same way as the Carnations. The same
precautions necessary in shading and watering, if the
weather is dry and sunny. 42° — 50°.

OCTOBER, 1867.

1st. — Lifted and potted Lamarque, Marshal Niel, and
other Roses from the open ground, that are wished for ear-
ly flowering in spring ; it is yet too soon by a month for
general potting of Roses for spring flowering. 42° — 53°.

2d. — Potted off Petunias, Zonale Geraniums, and other
bedding plants that were put in as cuttings on the 17th ult.
Planted out Stevia compacta and other varieties on bench-
es of green-house ; as they are too tall, they are planted
by laying them on their side, which answers well. Lifted
up and planted Strawberry runners closely together, so
that they can be conveniently got at in spring for early
orders. Planted early, they make root sufficient to stand
the winter. 42°— 52°.

3d. — The same as yesterday. 49° — 56°.

4th.— Potted off Verbenas put in on the 22d ult.; had
excellent success. 47° — 50°.

5th. — Lifted from ground stock plants of Variegated
and Zonale Geraniums, and potted them. 49° — 54°.

7th. — Operations same as Saturday. To-day shows the
10*

226 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

first ice, and very tender plants outside are somewhat in-
jured. Dahlias uninjured. 33° — 48°.

8th. — Corrected and re-labelled Dahlias, in anticipation
of their soon being cut down by frost. Potted off Ver-
benas, and put in cuttings of Verbenas, and Rose and
Zonale Geraniums. 34°— 46°.

9th. — The advancing season warns us to house Lemon
Verbenas, Geraniums, and other of the more hardy plants
that have yet been standing outdoors. Lemon Verbenas
being deciduous (shedding their leaves), are put under the
benches, as they can there be kept with safety until March,
when they begin again to start; the temperature will
average 45° under the bench. 46° — 52°.

Wth.— Put in cuttings of Verbenas, etc. 50°— 62°.

11th. — Lifted Japan and other Lilies and placed them
closely together, covered with 4 inches of sand, at the north
side of a wall, to retard them for spring sales ; they are
lifted for this purpose only, as nearly all Lilies are hardy,
and will always do better left out undisturbed all winter
where they grew ; though if the situation is very cold or
exposed, a covering up with a few inches of sawdust,
leaves, or manure, will benefit. In planting out the Lily
bulblets in open ground, see Chapter on Propagation of
Lilies. 48°— 61°.

12th. — Put in cuttings of Fuchsias, Heliotropes, and
Carnations. 49°— 62°.

14th. — Lifted Tuberoses, and placed them in empty
benches of green-houses to dry. Tied down the flowering
shoots of Tuberoses that are getting against the glass.
44°— 52°.

15th. — The same as yesterday.

IQth. — Put in cuttings of Carnations and Pinks of all
kinds. 44°— 58°.

17th. — Pricked out Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce
plants, that were sown on the 12th of September, in cold
frames. 50°— 61°. *.'

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 227

18th. — Pricked out in shallow boxes seedlings of Del-

O

phinium, etc., sown on the 4th of last month. 50° — 61°

19th. — Planted Pansy seedlings that were sown on
the 15th of September, in cold frames, 4 to 5 inches
apart each way. 52° — 68°.

21 st. — Continued planting Pansies, and put in Verbena
cuttings, taken from the open ground. Collected seeds
of Verbenas, Salvias, etc., etc. 53°— 55°.

22d. — Potted off the Verbenas put in on the 8th inst.;
also, Coleus, Centaurea, Salvias, etc., that were put in on
the 28th of September, all of which, except the Centaurea,
have succeeded well ; a partial failure in these is owing
to the cuttings being too hard when put in. 54° — 63°.

23d.— Lifted, divided, and potted Callas. 44°— 46°. >

24th. — Repotted Stock Giliflowers. First severe frost.
Dahlias and all tender plants cut down. 24° — 46°.

25th. — Made cuttings of a general variety of soft-
wooded plants, of such as have yet stood uninjured in the
open ground. 36° — 44.

26th. — Moved the first potted lots of Verbenas, to pre-
vent them rooting through in the sand. 35° — 41°.

2St h. — Potted off Fuchsias, Heliotropes, etc., from prop-
agating house. Lifted Roses from the open ground for
shipment. 40°— 56°.

29th. — Potted Myrsiphyllum (Smilax) asparagoides,
from seed boxes, (sown on August 1st) \ cleaned up and
top-dressed Double Primulas. 50° — 50°.

. — Continued lifting Roses for shipment. 46° — 54°.
£. — Put in Carnations and Pink cuttings ; we find
greater success at this senson than earlier, it being very
important that Carnation cuttings are rooted at a low at-
mospheric temperature. 41° — 53°.

NOVEMBER, 1868.

1st. — Potted Roses for spring blooming and sales, first
pruning off one-third of the shoots. This operation of

228 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

pruning should always be done before the plant is potted,
as it takes less than half the time, and the plant being di-
vested of its superfluous shoots is much more quickly and
easily handled in potting. The plants after potting are
freely watered once, to consolidate the soil, and if the sun
is bright and warm they are shaded by latticed shutters.
The plants are placed in a cold green-house or cold frame,
care being taken to keep them as cool as possible, and on
no consideration to use fire heat unless to keep the soil in
the pots from freezing. If possible, Roses should never be
kept at a higher temperature than 40° by fire heat, until
the young or c< working roots " are formed. See Chapter
on the Rose for more comprehensive details. 41° — 53°.

2d. — Continued potting Roses, and put in Antirrhinum,
Pentstemon, and other cuttings of half hardy plants from
the open ground. 45° — 53°.

4th. — Cut down and placed under the benches the
Dahlias that have been grown during summer in pots.
47°— 48°.

5th. — The Bouvardias, Carnations, Stevias, etc., are now
blooming profusely. 33° — 40°.

6th. — The cold wenther warns us that everything must
soon be secured, so to-day we take up, divide, and pot
for spring sales, herbaceous plants of all kinds. 31° — 40°.

7th. — Last night's frost finally destroyed the Dahlias,
so we lifted them up and secured them to-day, by drying
on the empty benches of the green-house. Those to be
started for cuttings in March are now placed at once in
soil and kept there without water until they start ; in this
way every root can be saved. 30° — 42°.

8th. — Planted in the open ground the Strawberry run-
ners that were layered in pots, and covered them close
up to the neck of the plants with rough manure. Put in
Carnation, Begonia, Petunia, Verbena, and other cuttings,
for the first time, from plants that have been growing in
the green-house. 41° — 52°.

DIAEY OF OPERATIONS. 229

$th. — Put Tuberose bulbs that have been dried on the
top of the benches underneath, to make room for plants
needing light. 42°— 50°.

10^. — Overhauled boilers and examined valves, prepar-
atory to winter work. 42° — 51°.

12th. — Again resumed the potting of the general col-
lection of Roses, which had to be partially suspended for
more pressing work. First snow, 2 inches deep. 34° — 40°.

13^.— Potted Verbena cuttings and Roses. 33°— 32°.

14th. — Lifted Violets from open exposure and placed
them in a sheltered spot for planting out for stock in
spring. 30° — 45°.

15th. — Put in cuttings of Variegated and other Geran-
iums from plants that have been under glass since October
5th. 33°— 34°.

IGth.— Potted off cuttings of Geraniums that were put
in the cutting bench in September. The cuttings were
too soft, owing to the season, when they were put in, and
in consequence have taken longer to root, yet have nearly
all taken. 36°— 40°.

17th. — Lifted and potted stock plants of Chrysanthe-
mums and Phloxes. 28°— 25°.

19th. — Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums, Geraniums,
Carnations, etc. 18°— 25°.

20th. — Lifted Roses from the open ground and heeled
them in under cover, as we are apprehensive they may
yet freeze in the ground, and our potting of Roses is two
weeks later than usual. 37° — 39°.

21^.— The same. 33°— 40°.

22d. — Received six cases of new plants from London,
in fair order ; we find this time of the year and March the
safest in which to import. Earlier in the season, the tem-
perature is too high, and in the time intervening between
November and March there is danger from frost. 32° — 43°.

23d — Put in cuttings of Roses made from ripened
wood, and placed them in a cold frame, so sheltered as not

230 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

to be frozen in winter. But the result from this method
is far less satisfactory than in propagating Roses from cut-
tings of the young wood; here we lose an average of 50
per cent, while from the young shoots, if done at the time
and in the manner described in the Chapter on Propaga-
tion, not even 1 per cent need be lost. 39°— 45°.

25th. — Removed the shading from the glass over Chi-
nese Primroses. 44° — 49°.

26th.— The same. 50°— 47°.

27th. — Cleared the ground of the remaining Roses and
Shrubs, preparatory to plowing up for winter. 34° —
43°.

28th.— The same as yesterday. 43° — 48°.

29th. — Overhauled and arranged recently potted off
plants. Tuberose flowers are now produced in quantity
from bulbs that were planted in benches in green-house,
on August 1st ; price $6 per 100 florets. 42° — 50°

BQth.— The same. 38°— 24°.

c ' * • •

DECEMBER, 1867.

2£— Potted off cuttings of Carnations and Pinks that
were put in on the llth of October; loss heavy, as they
have been put in two weeks too early. 27° — 28°.

3d. — Potted off cuttings of Pentstemons, Antirrhinums,
etc., which were put in a month ago. Very successful.
30°— 35°.

4th. — Continued potting Roses, and putting in hard-
wood cuttings of Roses. 26° — 30°.

6th. — Flowers of Bouvardias, Carnations, Heliotropes,
Boses, and Tuberoses, are now produced in large quanti-
ties from the plantations previously made, as recorded. We
find that in the planting out of Tuberose bulbs on the 15th
of July, 1st of August, and 15th of August, those planted on
the 1st of August give the most profitable results ; the first
date beuig too early, brings them in while the market is

DIAKY OF OPERATIONS. 231

glutted, while by that of the 15th of August, the bulbs
get too much exhausted by being kept dry too long out of
season. . 26°— 28°.

6th.— Finished potting Roses. The operation has oc-
cupied in the potting alone the time of three hands for
about three weeks,* the a'verage work of each being 700
plants per day.

7th. — Put in cuttings of Verbenas, Carnations, Zonale
and Variegated Geraniums, Pelargoniums, and soft wooded
plants of all kinds, the condition of the temperature from
this date to the middle of March being such that cut-
tings of every description are rooted with unerring cer- '-.
tainty, if the simple conditions which we lay down in
Chapter on Propagation are followed-.

9th.- — At this date, we number 20,000 of our staple
plant, Verbena. These we will multiply from ten to fif-
teen fold, until the first week in May, which is as late as
the Verbena can be propagated, to make a plant of suffi-
cient strength. 30° — 26°.

lO^A. — Potted off Carnation cuttings, which were put
in on November 8th, from plants grown under glass, and
which have done very well. Repotted and cleaned up
Double White Primroses. 27°— 28°.

\.\th. — Put in green cuttings of Bouvardias. This
mode of propagating the Bouvardia is not so good as by
the root, but it is necessary sometimes to do so when we
wish to increase new sorts rabidly. 27° — 28°.

12th. — Put in cuttings of a general assortment of
plants. 20°— 8°.

13*A.— The same. 4°-— 8°. .

14th. — Put in Carnation cuttings from plants that have
been somewhat exhausted by forcing for flowers. 14° —
12°.

(Note. — -10th January, 1868. Result nearly a failure,
owing to the unsettled condition of the cutting).
* 16M. — Began staking Roses to-day. If stakes are pro-

232 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

vided, the average work for each hand is 500 plants per
day. Experienced hands should nearly double that
number. 16°— 24°.

17th. — Put in cuttings of the new Fuchsias, Chrysan-
themums, etc., from the plants which were received from
England on November 22d. 22°— 28°.

18th. — Repotted Lantanas, Yariegated Geraniums, and
other plants, kept in hot-house range. 23° — 20°.

19th.— Potted off cuttings. 1 1°— 10°.

20th.— The same. 8°— 26°.

21st. — Put in root cuttings of Anemone. (See Propa-
gation). 22°— 26°.

23d. — Shipped to-day large numbers of Verbenas,
packed in close boxes. (See Chapter on Packing). 28° —
26°.

21th. — Put in cuttings of Coleus, Lantanas, Fuchsias,
Petunias, etc., etc. 27°— 30°.

25th.— Christmas Day. 30°— 36°.

2Qth. — Continued propagation of all kinds of plants.
42°— 38°.

27th.— The same. 44° — 40°.

28th. — Repotted Zonale and Variegated Geraniums, to
induce growth to produce growth for cuttings. 36° — 42°.

3Qth. — Cleared off the roots of Tuberoses that have
done flowering (those that were planted in July and
August). The last flowers sold at $8.00 per 100 florets on
the 24th inst. Could they have been kept until January
1st, they would have sold one-third higher. Cut flowers
to-day in large quantities, to be made up in baskets and
bouquets for New Year's Day. 26°— 24°

31st. The same.

JANUARY, 1868.

2nd. — Put in scales of Lilium auratum and other Lilies.
See " Propagation." Sowed seeds of Lobelia Paxtonii, Del-

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 233

phinium, and other plants suitable for bedding out for sum-
mer. 28°— 32°.

3rd. — Repotted stock plants of Pelargoniums, Fuchsias,
Lantanas, Petunias, etc., to encourage growth to produce
cuttings. 29°— 34°.

4th.— The same. 24°— 28°.

Gth,— The same. 14°— 26°.

7th. — Repotted Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes,
Petunias, etc., from 2-inch to 4-inch pots, to produce growth
for spring sales. 20°— 30°.

8th. — Large quantities of Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuch-
sias, etc., are now put in the propagating benches, this
being, perhaps, the best season to root cuttings, to give
fine plants in May. 24°— 32°.

9th. — Washed the soil from "pot bound" plants of
Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, and similar plants grown in
bench pots, and re-potted in fresh soil in pots of similar size.
For detail of this method see Potting of Plants. 28°— 14°.

10^.— The same. 4°— 12°.

llth.— The same. 14°— 18°.

13th. — First lot of Chrysanthemum cuttings put in from
general collection. 10° — 12°.

14th. — Shifted La Pactole and Safrano Roses that are
forcing to produce winter flowers. 10° — 20°.

15th.— The same. 14°— 22°.

16th.— The same. 18°— 22°.

17th. — Pricked out in shallow boxes, one inch apart, the
seedling plants sown on the 2nd inst.. 12° — 20°.

18th. — Potted off from propagating house struck cut-
tings of Petunias, Heliotropes, Variegated Geraniums, etc.
10°— 22°.

i.— The same. 20°— 31°.
.—The same. 18°— 34°.

22nd.— The same. 20°— 14°.

23rd. — Potted Anemone Japonica from root cuttings
put in on the 21st ult. 22°— 18°.

234 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

24th. — Again potted off Verbenas in large quantities,
and filled up the place occupied by them in the bench with
cuttings. 19°— 24°.

25*A.— The same. 20°— 18°.

2Qth. — Weather is steady and moderate, which is taken
advantage of to ship plants to all parts of the country.
Packing is done securely, so that almost every case is re-
ceived in safety. See Chapter on Packing. 20°— 22°.

28th. — All operations but firing and watering nearly
suspended, in consequence of all hands being occupied in
getting up orders and packing. 18° — 24°.

29th. — Potted off Passiflora cserulea from root cuttings.
Potted off in 2-inch pots Delphiniums and Lobelias that
had been pricked out in shallow boxes on the 17th inst.
22°— 28°.

30th. — Continued to pot rooted cuttings of Verbenas,
Geraniums, etc., filling up the space by fresh cuttings
as soon as cleared. 16° — 12°.

31st.— Finished staking Roses to-day. 8°— 16°.

FEBRUARY, 1868.

1st. — " Plunged " Roses in refuse hops to the rims of
the pots. We find this a great saving in watering, besides
keeping the roots in a uniform condition of moisture, con-
ducive to healthy growth. 8° — 16°.

2nd.— The same. 8°— 16°.

3rd— The same. 6°— 4°.

4th.— The same. Zero— 6°.

5th. — Cleared the benches of Eupatorium angustifolium,
which had done flowering, and filled up with spring stock.
4°— 18°.

6th.— The same. 22°— 28°.

7th. — Put in cuttings of Lantanas, Fuchsias, Antirrhi-
nums, Petunias, &c. 22°— 28°.

8th.— The same. 1° below zero— 12°.

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 235

10th. — Cleared off Bouvardias that have been forcing
for flowers, cutting off the tops and planting the roots
closely together in shallow boxes, and placing them under
the bench. Such roots make splendid plants for next sea-
son, or the roots may be cut up for propagation. 12° — 8°.

llth.— The same.

12th. — Arranged plants on the benches where the Bou
vardia and other flowering plants had been growing. Zero
—26°.

13th. — Continued plunging Roses, as begun on the 1st
inst., placing them, according to the size of the plant, at
such distances apart as will allow the outside shoots to be
an inch or so from each other. A house full of Roses in
the dormant state when the pots are placed close to each
other should fill, when thinned out, just about double the
space, to give them sufficient room to grow.. 20° — 32°.

14th. — The same.

15th. — The same.

17£A.— Put in cuttings of Phloxes and Chrysanthemums.
14°— 32°.

18th. — Put in cuttings of Begonias, Stevias, Etipatoriums,
etc., etc., to produce plants to grow in summer for next
winter's flowers.

IQth. — Cleared out Carnation plants that have been
forced for flower. As such plants are of but little use after
they have been thus forced, we find it most profitable to
throw them away and replace them by young and fresh
stuff. 22°— 30°.

20th. — Pricked out rooted cuttings of Carnations 1 inch
apart in shallow boxes, to economize space ; we find that
thus treated and planted out in the open ground they do
quite as well as if they had been potted, and nearly one-
half the space is saved. 30°— 34°.

21st. — Put in large quantities of the leading bedding
plants, such as Verbenas, Petunias, Heliotropes, Gera-
niums, etc., for succession crops. 36° — 3D8.

236 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

— The same. 26°— 30°.
.— The same. 24°— 16°.

25th. — Put in first Rose cuttings from young wood, of
some new sorts which are scarce with us. It is too soon
for the general crop. Finished thinning out and plung-
ing Roses. 17°— 22°.

26th. — Put in cuttings of Lantana, Variegated Gera-
niums, etc.

27th.— The same. 24°— 30°.

%8th.— The same. 28°— 26°.

29th. — First sowing of Tomato, Pepper, and Egg Plant
seeds in shallow boxes for spring plants, in a night temper
atureof65°. 22°— 20°.

MARCH, 1868.

2nd. — Put in first cuttings of Dahlias, new Chrysanthe
mums, new Fuchsias, etc. 12° — 10°.

3rd. — Pricked off seedling Petunias in shallow boxes 1
inch apart each way. Sowed Verbena seeds in shallow
boxes ; as they germinate slowly, care is taken to cover
with finely-sifted leaf mould to the depth of -j- of an inch,
and sprinkle daily, so that they never get dry. Tempera-
ture at night 60° to 65°. Zero — 4°.

4th. — Began to put in Rose cuttings in quantity, care
being taken not to let the bottom heat exceed 65°, with
an atmosphere of 10 or 15 degrees lower. See Propaga-
tion for further details. Zero— 20°.

5th. — The same.

6th. — Potted off Pelargonium cuttings in fine order;
they will make fine, healthy plants by May. 16° — 33°.

7th. — We are now shipping large quantities. 32° — 34°.

9th. — Put in cuttings of all sorts in large quantities.
30°— 40°.

Wth. — Second sowing of Tomatoes, Pepper, and Egg
Plant seeds for succession. 32°— 30°.

DIARY OP OPERATIONS. 237

llth. — Put in Rose cuttings in large quantities. 36° —
25°.

12th.— The same. 30°— 30°

13th. — Pricked out in shallow boxes, 1 to 1^ inches apart,
the Tomato and Pepper and Egg Plants sown on the 29th
ult. Average work for one hand is about 3,000 plants per
day. 36°— 42°.

14*A.— The same.

16th. — Put in cuttings of Dahlias, Fuchsias, etc. 42° —
44°.

17th. — Potted off the Rose cuttings which were put in
on the 25th ult. ; an entire success. 40° — 46°.

ISth. — Placed young Carnation plants out in cold frames,
to harden them off, preparatory to planting them out in
the open ground. 38° — 42°.

19«A.— The same. 30°— 40°.

20^.— The same. 30°— 34°.

22nd. — Continued putting in Rose and Verbena cut-
tings in large quantities. 28° — 30°.

23rd.— The same. 30°— 42°.

21th. — Pricked out in shallow boxes the Zinnias and
Asters, which were sown on the 6th inst. 30° — 42°.

25th. — Now shipping largely. 30° — 28°.

26th. — The second sowing of Tomatoes and Egg Plants
was pricked out in boxes. Continued putting in Rose
cuttings in large quantities. 30° — 26°.

27th.— The same. 40°— 44°.

28*A. — Pricked out in shallow boxes the seedling plants
of Verbenas that were sown on the 3d inst. 32° — 38°.

30^.— The same. 30°— 36°.

31st. — Potted off Rose cuttings that were put in on the
4th inst. 32° — 48°.

APRIL, 1868.

1st.— The same. 23° — 48°.

2nd. — Began to plant in the open ground Carnations

238 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

and Pinks that are to be kept for our own stock. (JVote.—
May 2nd. Since these have been planted, the ground has
been frozen solid to the depth of 4 inches, or below the ball
of roots, yet not a single plant is killed, or even injured.
The Carnation, be it remembered, is almost a hardy plant,
and if not raised too tender, will stand a great amount of
cold without injury. Our lesson from this, then, is that, if
we have plants in the necessary hardy condition, they may
be planted out just as soon as the ground is dry enough
to work with advantage in spring). 32° — 30°.

3rd. — Potted off Verbenas, and continued planting Car-
nations outside. 30°— 32°. (Note.— May 2nd. Those
planted from the boxes show quite as well as those that
had been grown in pots.)

4th. — Put in cuttings of Coleus, Lantanas, Bouvardia
roots, and such cuttings as require the higher temperature
that the brighter sunshine now gives. 30° — 48°.

5th. — Began potting off a large quantity of Verbenas
to-day; potted even at this date, they form splendid
plants. 25°— 34°.

7$&— Put in cuttings of Dahlias and Lemon Verbenas —
the latter for next year's stock.

Sth. — Continued making Rose cuttings and potting off
such as are rooted. 45° — 40°.

9^.— The same. 24°— 36°.

10^.— The same. 28°— 34°.

llth.— The same.' 26°— 32°.

13th. — Put in cuttings of Lobelia, Pyrethrum, and simi-
lar plants, for baskets and vases. 25° — 30°.

Uth.— The same. 40°— 44°.

... -15th.— Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums, and Zonale,
Variegated, and Rose Geraniums for stock. 50° — 60°.

IQth.— The same. 48°— 52°.

llth. — Continued putting in Verbena and Rose cuttings
and planted out Carnations in open ground. No Rose
cuttings yet planted out, on account of a very wet spell

DIARY OP OPERATIONS. 239

There would be no danger from frost now, were the ground
sufficiently dry. 40° — 44°.

18th.— The same.

2Qth. — Sowed Tomatoes for a succession crop. 44° — 46°.

2lst. — Put in cuttings of Double White Primula, for
fall stock. 42° — 48°.

22nd. — First planting of Roses in the open ground.
Plants in very fine condition. They would have been
planted 10 days ago if the ground had been fit. 46° — 52°.

23rd. — The same.

24:th.— Put in to-day 20,000 Verbena cuttings, which
will be the last for this season, as they will not make good
plants much later. These, however, will make very fine
plants by the end of May. 32° — 44°.

25th. — Put in cuttings of Dahlias and Double Ge-
raniums. 40°— 36°.

27th.— Selected the best Pansies, and planted them out
for seed for stock. 40° — 48°.

28*A.— Planted out Roses. 36°— 42°.

29tfL— The same. 42°— 46°.

30^. — Last Rose cuttings for the season made to-day ;
later than this, it is uphill work propagating Roses, owing
to the increased heat of the advancing season. 42° — 60°.

MAY, 1868.

1st — Planted out Lilies, Paonias, and other hardy
plants, in open ground. 42° — 60°.

2nd. — Planted out in open ground seedling Verbenas
from the boxes in which they have been pricked out, at dis-
tances of 18 inches between the rows, and 4 inches be-
tween the plants. They are put thus close to admit of re-
jecting inferior sorts as they flower. 46° — 52°.

4th.— Pricked out Egg Plants from third sowing, (April
20th) and also potted those previously pricked out in
boxes. Egg Plants being rather difficult to transplant,

240 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

we prefer to pot them, but there is no occasion to put
Tomato or Pepper plants in pots. 46° — 54°.

5th. — Potted off root cuttings of Bouvardia in large
quantities. 48°— 52°.

§th. — Planted out in the open ground stock plants of
Variegated and Zonale Geraniums, the ones we have been
propagating from all winter. 50° — 53°.

7th. — Put in cuttings of Dahlias, and potted off such as
are rooted. 50° — 44°.

8th. — Put in cuttings of Lemon Verbenas for next sea-
son's stock, and potted off the last of Verbena cuttings
for the season. 42°— 52°.

9th. — Potted off a general assortment of bedding plants,
mostly new, for our own stock. 46° — 54°.

11£A.— Planted out Roses largely. 48°— 56°.

12th. — Potted off some Rose cuttings ; there was some
slight loss, owing to a rather high temperature. 46° — 50°.

13th. — Potted off the Lemon Verbenas that were put
in on the 7th ult. ; found them too largely rooted, but had
no room to pot off until now. They should have been pot-
ted 10 days ago. 52°— 56°.

l±th. — Put in cuttings of Chrysanthemums, Phloxes,
and Lantanas, for plants for next fall and winter sales.
54°— 55°.

15^.— The same. 50°— 58°.

IQth.-^ The same.

ISth. — Potted off Geraniums, etc., etc. As we are run-
ning short of Egg Plants, have put in 1,000 of the tops
as cuttings. 54° — 56°.

I9th.— Potted off Dahlias and Lemon Verbenas. 50°
—54°.

.— The same. 52°— 56°.

. — Put in cuttings of Pelargoniums for fall and
winter stock. 52°— 56°.

2^rd. — Potted off last lot of Rose cuttings for the
season. 54°— 64°.

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 241

25th. — Potted off Double White Primulas put in on
the 21st ult., with a loss not exceeding 1 per cent. The
last 6 days have been very wet. 58° — 66°.

2Qth.— Planted out stock plants of Petunias, Calceola-
rias, Pentstemons, etc. 57° — 68°.

27th. — Planted out Roses in large quantities to-day.
58°— 56°.

28th.— The same. 54°— 60°.

29th.— The same. 58°— 64°.

30M.— The same. 62°— 68°.

JUNE, 1868.

1st.— The same. 64°— 68°.

2nd. — Potted off cuttings of Egg Plants that were put
in on the 18th inst. 62°— 66°.

3rd. — Potted last lots of Chrysanthemums, Phloxes,
and Lantanas, that were put in on the 14th ult. 60° —
64°.

4^t — Continued to put in Dahlia cuttings. 64° — 68°.

5th. — Planted out our collection of hardy herbaceous
plants. 66°— 70°.

6*A.— The same. 68°— 72°.

Sth. — Topped Carnation plants that were planted out
on April 2nd, to keep them dwarf and bushy. 60° — 64°.

9^. —Potted off Dahlias and Double White Primroses.
62°— 66°.

IQth. — Repotted stoqk plants of Double White Prim-
roses. They are kept under glass during summer, and
shaded by whitewashing the glass from May 1st to No-
vember 1st, heavier shading being given during the months
of July and August. 54°— 60°.

llth. — Shifted the Lemon Verbenas that were potted on
May 13th from 2-inch to 4-inch pots, in which they will
remain all summer. 64° — 68°.

12th. — Washed the soil entirely from the roots of stock
Pelargoniums, which have been exhausted by excessive
11

242 PRACTICAL FLOniCTTLTUItE.

cutting for propagation, and potted in a size smaller pots.
66°— 68°.

13th. — Planted out Bouvardias at the distance of 9
inches each way. 68°— 70°.

15th.— Finished planting out Roses. 64°— 66°.

IQth. — Repotted La Pactole, Safrano, Hermosa, and
other Roses, to be kept in pots during summer and fall, to
force for flowers in winter. 62° — 66°.

18th.— Planted out stock Dahlias. 66°— 72°.

19^.— The same.

20th. — Planted out large Roses that have been left
unsold. 78°— 82°.

22??^.— The same. 60°— 62°.

23rd.— The same. 60°— 72°.

24:th. — Planted out what remained of stock plants. 58°
—64°.

25th. — Carnations have been much injured by continued
rains ; we observe that they are more susceptible of injury
from wet than any other plant we grow. In anticipation
of a dry, hot spell, we now mulch, to protect the few roots
they may have left. 60°— 68°.

2Qth. — Cleared out all plants from the green-houses, and
placed them outside, except a few things, such as Double
Primulas, Daphnes, Pelargoniums, etc., which would be
injured by excessive rains. 60° — 66°.

27th. — Repotted different kinds of plants that are kept
in pots for winter, such as Chrysanthemums, Eupatoriums,
Roses, Poinsettias, Heliotropes, etc. 64° — 76°.

29th. — Potted off last lot of Pelargonium cuttings, for
the season. 66°— 74°.

30th. — The same.

JULY, 1868.

1st. — Repotted Roses for winter flowering. 68° — 70°.
2nd. — Potted off Dahlia cuttings, the last for the season.;

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 243

later than, this, the roots would hardly ripen sufficiently.
66°— 68°.

Srd.^The same. 72°— 72°.

6£A.— Shifted Dahlias from 2 to 3-inch pots, where they
will now remain for the season, care being taken, however,
to thin out the shoots and lower leaves, to admit sufficient
air to the roots to ripen the tubers. 72° — 76°.

7th.— The same. 70°— 70°.

8th.— The same. 72°— 78°.

9*A.— The same. 74°— 76°.

Wth. — Shifted Pactole, Safrano, and other Roses for
winter flowering. 76°— 80°.

llth.— The same.

13£A. — Topped Carnations, to induce a dwarf growth
and prevent them from exhausting themselves now by
flowering, as the flowers are required only in winter. 82°
—88°.

14th. — Weather exceedingly hot ; nothing done but to
water the plants and clean up. 76° — 88°.

15tfA.— The same. 80°— 90°.

16^.— The same. 88°— 88°.

llth.— The same. 76°— 80°.

18^.— The same. 88°— 88°.

20th.— The same. 70°— 74°.

21s*.— The same. 72°— 72°.

22nd. — Shifted Heliotropes, Chrysanthemums, Roses,
&c., for winter flowering. 74°— 76°.

23re£— The same. 72°— 74°.

24*A.— The same. 72°— 72°.

25th. — Planted out dry bulbs of Tuberoses on benches,
in 5 inches of well-prepared, rich soil ; these we expect to
flower in December. Every alternate sash is removed
from the green-house, so that they have almost full ex-
posure to the open air. 76° — 80°.

27th. — Repotted Stevia compacta and other winter-
blooming plants. 74°— 76V

244 PEACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

28th. — Layered in 2-inch pots Roses of some new sorts
that are scarce. There is little loss in layering Roses if it
be done in small pots sunk in the soil. 66° — 74°.

29th. — The same.

SQth. — Shifted Cyclamens and Double White Primroses,
and thinned out the Primroses, spreading them over
a larger surface, to admit air around the pots. 68° — 74°.

31st.— The same. 70°— 74°.

AUGUST, 1868.

1st. — Second planting of Tuberoses in the manner done
on the 25th ult. Will endeavor to retard this lot by keep-
ing the soil as dry as possible, the great object being to
delay the flowering until January. 72° — 78°.

3rd. — The same.

4th.— The same. 72°— 78°.

5th. — To-day we pot dry roots of Tuberoses, placing
them in a cool shed and keeping them dry. They can be
thus kept in a shed for 10 or 12 days, after which they
must be exposed to the open air, but will still be kept
as • dry as possible until they begin to grow. They
will be thus kept in pots (2 roots in a 6-inch pot,) until
there is danger of frost, when they will be planted out in
soil on the benches as the others are. The object of pot-
ting them at all is that their removal to the benches can be
done without injury to the roots, which could not be ef-
fected unless they were first potted. If we had planted
them at once in the bench we do not thinU: we could
keep them back so well, as by placing them in a partially
shaded place in the open air. — Cut over for the last time
this season those Carnations that are wanted to produce
flowers hi December and January. 70° — 76°.

6th. — Shifted winter-flowering plants of all kinds. 70°
—78°.

7^.— The same. 70°— 76°.

Sth.— The same. 72°— 74°.

DIARY OF OPERATIONS. 245

10th. — Potted off cuttings, and shifted into larger pots,
Chrysanthemum laciniatum (the winter-flowering variety).
72°_7G°.

llth.— The same. 74°— 78°.

12^.— The same. 60°— 64°.

13th. — Put in green cuttings of Bouvardia, Cissus, &c.
54°_60°.

14th. — Shifted for the last time this season Roses that
are to be used for winter flowering. 55° — 62°.

15th. — The same.

17th. — Shifted Eupatoriums, Stevias, Poinsettias, and
other winter-flowering plants, for the last time this season.
The next shifting will be from the pots to planting out in
the benches. 66°— 74°.

18th. — Washed the soil from the roots of Roses that have
become " pot bound," and repotted in new pots with fresh
soil. This practice we find very effectual to recuperate all
plants that have been stunted by any cause whatever. 64°
—72°.

19^. — Topped Bouvardias, to keep them dwarf and
delay the flowering until the winter months. 70° — 80°.

20th.— The same. 75°— 72°.
.— The same. 72°— 70°.
.— The same. 68°— 70°.

24th. — Layered new sorts of Roses in pots, and put in
green cuttings of Bouvardias, Cissus, Clerodendrons, and
other plants of a tropical nature. (Note. — September 5th.
This resulted successfully). 70°— 76°.

25th. — Cut down stock plants of Pelargoniums, and put
in the shoots as cuttings. The Pelargoniums have been
kept under glass all summer, slightly shaded, and have
ripened their shoots finely, so that, no doubt, nearly every
cutting will grow. Great difficulty is always found with
the rooting of Pelargoniums that have been planted out.
The cut-down plants will, of course, receive no water un-
til they begin ta grow. 68°— #4?.

246 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE.

i.— The same. 68°— 74°.

27th. — Repotted Poinsettia, Heliotrope, Eupatorium ele-
gans, and stock plants of Lan tanas, for the last time until
they are placed in winter quarters. 64° — 72°.

28th. — Shook out and overhauled stock Fuchsias that
have been injured by exposure outdoors to heavy rains.
62°— 75°.

29^.— The same.

Slst. — Cut down stock Heliotropes and put in the cut-
tings. 70°— 74°.

SEPTEMBER, 1868.

1st. — Potted off cuttings of new Bouvardias that were
put in on the 13th inst., only about one-half of which have
rooted, owing to too high a temperature. 72° — 80°.

2nd. — Shifted Safrano and other Roses thus early, so
that they may become sufficiently rooted in the pots to
force for winter flowers. 65°— 70°.

3rd. — Cut back Petunias, shrubby Calceolarias, Cen-
taureas, <fcc., to produce young shoots for cuttings, which
they will do by the end of the month. The hard growth of
the flowering shoots, or even the ordinary growth of the
blind shoots made in summer, is too hard for the purpose.
See the necessary condition of the cutting in Chapter on
Propagation. 56° — 60°.

4th.— The same. 50°— 61°.

5th. — Lifted and potted Bouvardias from the open
ground and placed them against a north wall outdoors.
Careful attention is necessary in shading and watering
until they begin to root. 55° — 58°.

7th.— The same. 64°— 62°.

Sth. — Put in cuttings of Mrs. Pollock and other golden
tricolor Geraniums in propagating house. The propaga-
tion of all classes of Geraniums will now be continued from
the plants growing outdoors, from now to the end of the
month. The plants of such as are wanted for stock are lifted
and potted, as soon as cut down for cuttings. 60° — 61°.

INDEX.

Achyranthes Gilsonii 165

Aloysia citriodora 204

Alternanthera spathulata 166

Alyssum dentatum variegatum 166

Amaryllis 126

Anomatheca 127

Antirrhinum majus 192

Aspect of Garden 7

Azaleas 146

Babiana 128

Balsams, Double 145

Baskets, Construction of 148

Baskets, Hanging 163

Bedding Plants , 192

Begonias 144

Bignonia jasminoides 145

" venusta 145

Black Rust on the Verbena 108

Boilers 64

Bouquets, Construction of. 148

Bouvardias 140

Bouvarclia triphylla 193

Caladium esculentum 194

Calceolarias, Herbaceous 193

" Shrubby 193

Camellias 130

Camellia, Grafting .131

" Inarching .131

Canna Indica 193

Cape Bulbs, Varieties and Culture.. 125
Carnations 134

" Monthly 193

Centanrea Candida 163

" gymnocarpa 165

Cerastium tomentosum 166

Chinese Primrose, Double White.. 139

247

Chrysanthemums, Chinese 195

" Japanese 148-195

Cinerarias. 193

Cold Frames 45

Coleus Verschaffeltii 163-193

Colors, Nature's Law of 183

Convolvulus Mauri tanicus 166

Crosses 162

Cuttings, Dahlia 74

" Potting 80

" Propagation by 70

Root 75

" Split 75

Dahlias 197

" Propagation of 74

Delphiniums 195

Design for a City or Village Lot 11

" " Flower Garden 19

" Parterre 23

Drainage 17

Eupatoriums 142

Floriculture, Profits of. 189

Florists' Pinks 205

Flower-beds in Walks 25

" " Planting of 26

Flower-Garden, Design for 19

Laying out 10

Flues 61

Foliage, Plants Used for 147

Forcing House 57

Fuchsias 199

" Winter-flowering 144

Garden, Aspect of 7

" Soilfor..'. 7

Geraniums 199

" Bronze-leaved 201

248

PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE

Geraniums, Golden-margined 201

" Golden Tricolors 201

" Ivy-leaved 203

" Mrs. Pollock 164

u peltatum elegans 166

' ' Scented-leaved 203

" Silver-margined 201

" Silver Tricolors 201

" Tom Thumb 163

Variegated-leaved 201

Zonale 199

Gladiolus 125

" Forcingof 118

Green-house Structures 48

Haemanthus 129

Hanging Baskets 163

Heaths 146

Heating, Modes of. 61

Heliotropes 143-203

Hitching & Co.'s Boilers 64

Holland Bulbs 122

Hollow Walls 59

Hollyhock 203

Hot-beds, Construction of 47

Hot-house 57

Hyacinths in Glasses. 124

" Winter-flowering 145

Insects 172

Ants 175

Aphis .176

Aphis, Ground or Blue .179

Blue Aphis 174

^ Carnation Twitter 181

^ Green Fly 176

Ground Aphis . . 174

Macrodactylis subspinosus 174

Mealy Bug 180

Red Spider 177

Rose Slug : .173

Sdandria Itosce 173

Scale Insects 180

Thrips 181

Verbena Mite 178

Ixias 127

Japanese Chrysanthemum. . . .149

Jasminum grandiflorum 144

Lachenalias 128

Lantanas 204

Larkspurs 195

Lawn, Grass for 10

" To Lay out 9

Lemon Verbena. ..-..." 204

Lilies, List of. 85

Lilies, Propagation of 82

Linari-a cymbalaria 164

Lobelia erinus 164

" gracilis 204

Lysimachia nummularia 164

Mailing Plants 188

Manrandia Barclayana 166

Mignonette 145

Mildew on Roses 106

Mimulus luteus 204

" moschatus 204

Modes of Heating 61

Moisture and Temperature 31

Monkey Flower 204

Mule Pinks 205

Musk Plant 204

Nasturtiums 207

Nature's Law of Colors 183

Nerine. 126

Orchid Culture 119

Ornithogalum aureum 127

Oxalis 128

Packing Plants 186

Panicnm variegatum 166

Parlor Gardening 167

Parterre, Design for 23

Pelargoniums 206

Pentstemons 205

Petunias 205

Pinks, Florists' 205

" Mule 205

Plants, Are they injurious to health ?182

" Bedding 192

" by Mail 188

" Packing 186

" Potting 37

" Soft-wooded 192

Planting of Flower Beds . 26

Potting Cuttings 80

" Plants 37

Soilsfor 28

Poinsettia pulcherrima 143

Primrose, Double White Chinese. .. 139

Propagation by Cuttings 70

bySeeds 67

of Lilies ....82

" of Succulent Plants. . .208

" Saucer System of 81

Profits of Floriculture 189

Protection in Winter 45

Pyrethrum, Golden Feather 166-205

Roads..; ... 18

Rock-work, Formation of 171

INDEX".

249

Root Cuttings 75

Rose, Culture of 86

Roses in Pots 101

" List of Select. 89

" Preserving Monthly in Win-
ter 97

" Propagation 93

" Winter Flowering 103-138

Sage, Blue 207

" Scarlet 207

Salvias 207

Saucer System of Propagating 81

Sednm Sieboldii 164

Seeds, Propagation by 67

Shading \ 80

Solanum jasminoides variegatum.. .166

Snap Dragon 192

Soft-wooded Plants. 192

Soil for Garden 7

" for Potting 28

Sparaxis 127

Split Cuttings 75

Stevias 142

Stocks, Intermediate , , 206

Succulent Plants, Propagation in

Summer 208

Sweet Alyssum 145

Temperature and Moisture 31

Tiger Flower 129

Tigridia 129

Tropseolum 207

" Ball of Fire 164

Tuberose, Culture of 113

" Winter Flowering 138

Tulips 124

Verbena, Black Rust on 108

" Cultivation of 107

" Varieties 112

Vinca elegantissima 166

Violets 136

Walks 17

Walls, Hollow 59

Watering 34

Window Gardening 167

Winter Flowering Plants 130

Winter Protection 45

Wreaths ;. 162

Zinnias, Double 207

GARDENING FOR PROFIT

In the Market and Family G-arden.
BY PETER HENDERSON.

HjLTJSTR.-A.TEID.

This is the first work on Market Gardening ever published in this
country. Its author is well known as a market gardener of eighteen
years' successful experience. In this work he has recorded this
experience, and given, without reservation, the methods necessary
to the profitable culture of the commercial or

MURKIEST GARDEN.

It is a work for which there has long been a demand, and one
which will cdmmend itself, not only to those who grow vegetables
for sale, but to the cultivator of the

FAMILY GARDEN,

to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones gen-
erally practiced. It is an ORIGINAL AND PURELY AMERICAN work, and
not made up, as books on gardening too often are, by quotations
from foreign authors.

Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all
its details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the products
for market.

CONTENTS.

Men fitted for the Business of Gardening.

The Amount of Capital Required, and

"Working Force per Acre.

Profits of Market Gardening.

Location, Situation, and Laying Out.

Soils, Drainage, and Preparation.

Manures, Implements.

Uses and Management of Cold Frames.

Formation and Management of Hot-beds.

Forcing Pits or Green-houses.

Seeds and Seed Raising.

How, When, and Where to Sow Beedc.

Transplanting, Insects.

Packing of Vegetables for Shipping.

Preservation of Vegetables in Winter.

Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation.

In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are described, and
the culture proper to each is given in detail.

Sent post-paid, price $l.SO.
OBANGE JTJDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York.

NEW AND BEAUTIFUL WORK.

BY

JOSIAH HOOPES, Westchester, Pa.

INCLUDING

Propagation, Cultivation, Description of Varieties, and
their Adaptability to Different Situations.

THIS is a long-needed work, as in it the present state of our knowledge
npon the cone-bearing plants, or Conlferae of the botanist, is posted up. Mr.
Hoopes is one of those persons rarely met with — a practical cultivator, and a
man of science at the same time. While his work gives us all the Conifer*
arranged in the classification of the botanist, it at the same time t:eats of the
experience, not only of the author, but of American cultivators generally,
with this large and important family of plants.

Evergreens play so interesting a part, not only in ornamental planting, out
in what may be termed economical planting, (i. e. hedges, screens, wind-
breaks, etc.,) that we are sure a work which treats of their propagation and
culture, describes in both popular and scientific language the many species,
and, what is of not the least importance, gives a list of the tender and un-
reliable ones, will be warmly welcomed by every lover of these beautiful
trees.

Mr. Hoopcs brings to his work a perfect enthusiasm for his subject, and
is as free to condemn a plant as if he were not a nurseryman. All the latest
novelties from Japan, the Northwest, etc., are noticed, and their success or
failure, both in this country and in England, is recorded.

The work is abundantly illustrated with most carefully executed engrav-
ings, for the greater part from living specimens.

We must commend the conscientious care the author has shown in striving
to arrive at the proper names ; and doubtless much of the confusion that at
present exists in respect to names among both dealers and growers, will be
corrected now that they have a standard work to refer to.

Not the least interesting portion of the book is an account of the principal
collections of evergreens in the country.

The work contains 435 pages, 12mo, on fine paper.

Sent post-paid. Price, $3.00.
ORANGE JUDD & CO.,

245 Broadtvay, New- York City.

LIST OF

RURAL BOOKS

NO.

PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY

ORANGE JTJDD & CO.,
24,5 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.

Any Book on this list
any address in the United States,

Allen's (L. F.) Rural Architecture.. $1 50
Allen's (U. L.) American Farm Book 1 50
Allen's New American Farm Book. . 2 50
Allen's (R. L.) Diseases of Domestic

Animals 1 00

American Asr. Annual, pap., 50, clo. 75
American Hort. Annual.pap., 50, clo. 75

American Bird Fancier 30

American Pomology 300

American Rose Culturist 80

American Weeds and Useful Plants. 1 75
Architecture, (Cummings & Miller). 10 00

Architecture, Modern Am., do 10 00

Bement's Kabbit Fancier 30

Bommer's Method of Making Manures 25

Book of Evergreens 3 00

Boussingault's Rural Economy 1 60

Breck's New Book of Flowers 1 75

Buist's Flower Garden Directory.... 1 50
Buist's Family Kitchen Gardener. . . 1 00
Chorlton's Grape Grower's Guide. . . 75

Cobbett's American Gardener 75

Cole's (S. W.) American Fruit Book 75

Cole's Veterinarian 75

Copeland's Country Life, 8vo, cloth. 5 00

Cotton Culture, (Lyman) 1 50

Cotton-Planter's Manual, (Turner).. 1 50
Dadd's (G. H.) Modern Horse Doctor 1 50

Dadd's American Cattle Doctor 1 50

Dana's Muck Manual 1 25

Darwin's Variation of Animals and

Plants under Domestication, 2 vols. 6 00
Dog & Gun, (Hooper's), pa. 30c., clo. 60
Downinc's Landscape Gardening. ... 6 50
Draining for Profit and Health...... 1 50

Eastwood on Cranberry 75

Elliott'sWest'n Fruit Grower's Guide 1 50
Farm Impl'ts & Machinery (Thomas) 1 50

Flax Culture.... 50

French's Farm Drainage 1 50

Field's (Thos. W.) Pear Culture 1 25

Fuller's Grape Culturist 1 50

Fuller's Small Fruit Culturist 150

Fuller's Strawberry Culturist 20

Gardening for the South, (White)... 2 00

Gregory on Squash Culture 80

Guenon on Milch Cows 75

Harris' Insects Injurious to Vegeta-
tion, ext. clo., $4.00 ; col'd eng's.... 6 00
Henderson's Gardening for Profit. . . 1 50

will be forwarded, post-paid, to
on receipt of the price.

Henderson's Practical Floriculture. 1 50
Herbert's Hints to Horse-Keepers. . . 1 75

Hop Culture 40

How Crops Grow(Prof. S.W.Johnson)2 00

Hunter and Trapper. 1 00

Jaques' Manual of the House 1 50

Johnston's Agricultural Chemistry.. 1 75
Johnston's Elements of Agricultural

Chemistry 1 50

Leuchar's How to Build Hot-Houses 1 50

Market Assistant (De Voe) 2 50

Miles on the Horse's Foot 75

Mohron the Grape Vine 1 00

My Vineyard at Lakevie w 1 25

Norton's Scientific Agriculture 75

Onion Culture 20

Our Farm of Four Acres, pa. SOc., clo. 60

Pardee on Strawberry Culture 75

Peat and its Uses 1 25

Pedder's Land Measurer 60

Percheron Horse 1 00

Quinby's Mysteries of Bee-Keeping. 1 50
Rural Annual, (Harris), 8 Nos. bound,

2vols each.. 1 50

Randall's Sheep Husbandry 1 50

Randall's Fine Wool Sheep Husbandryl 00
Richardson on the Dog, pa. 30c., clo. 60

Rivers' Miniature Fruit Garden 1 00

Rural Church Architecture 12 00

Saunders' Domestic Poultry, paper.. 40

" " cloth.. 75

Schenck's Gardener's Text Book. ... 75

Skillful Housewife 75

Stewart's (John) Stable Book 1 50

Thompson's Food of Animals . 1 00

Tim Bunker Papers 1 50

Tobacco Culture 25

Warder's Hedges and Evergreens... 1 50
Woodward's Cottages&Farm-houses 1 50
Woodward's Suburban and Country

Houses 1 50

Woodward's Country Homes 1 50

Wheeler's Rural Homes 2 00

Wheeler's Homes for the People 8 00

Youatt and Spooner on the Horse... 1 5C

Youatt and Martin on Cattle 1 50

Youatt on the Hog 1 00

Youatt on Sheep 1 00

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