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“a
Practical Taxidermy,
AND
HOME DECORATION;
TOGETHER WITH
GENERAL INFORMATION FOR SPORTSMEN,
BY
JOSEPH H. BATTY,
TAXIDERMIST FOR THE HAYDEN EXPEDITION, AND OTHER GOVERNMENT SURVEYS
AND MANY OF THE LEADING COLLEGES AND MUSEUMS IN THE UNITED STATES.
AUTHOR OF ‘‘ HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP,” ETC., ETC.
125 ILLUSTRATIONS.
NEW LOR K :
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
45 BROADWAY.
1880.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by the
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
TO
Pe iitenh.- HOR SF ORD,
MY EARLY INSTRUCTOR IN TAXIDERMY, AND SYMPATHETIC
FRIEND IN BOYHOOD,
THIS BOOK IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED.
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
EeRPPE CR ee eee ee ene eae on aaah Cie eee wm cain Wes SOS aig Melee ewew se 7
Phere AMMOUNeEEMeOM GL. ica. nae cain ew cian Selassie os ee eee g
CHAPTER I.
ONENESS tee ee arene ta none ooh a.o,o cea ds el Sislcinisrawlcns oes 3.6, s ele'oira we 15
CHAPTER II.
BBO VON ae etc ar ahct aaa, eile ort in siehcl eb @ o/a Ste. ove of Ss cine c/a violets lel ee 22
CHAPTER III.
Pravelline:. ..o. 6. eee ee el aioie weietc nicht is.ai'c's olds 6). s 96's 0/8 elneeie wre ve 30
CHAPTER IY.
BU tiee PEE EBLE ee WMI racine oe ap Merarn hdc) win Aaa ta w'G © Gale's o's'e Gow e/tece eoeb ea ce 33
CHAPTER V
Guns and Cases for Collecting’... 00.6... 2 0c ccee ess Ser ataora eis stars aie os 42
CHAPTER VI.
Rese TORIME CU EMNT Ste gern cote Siete ateres) tact sic iS. n) Porat aie, ca reese siete ala’e Sle wieGus ee 50
CHAPTER VII.
Resear eta TUTTE eared oc aichnhs wiare, Bini. 0 6 wicfele Sac oe bi cie a. sieve ee wer 53
CHAPTER VIII.
Prepares Animats? okine. for, Mounting. sce sec ce sees vacances 59
CHAPTER IX.
Warbreserve a Buck 5 Head for Mounting)... 0.6.52. cs ccc eeerecces 65
CHAPTER X. .
Vewipeve Winey OPENS sete 5 < tO a3! o's clare © W Sinje: sivlojeis co's Bee Sse'e.c obs» Me siele’s 76
CHAPTER XI,
Ereparme, ang Mounting: Skeletons... 230.6. 2. sc e.ce cece cers sicees ae 86
CHAPTER XII.
Collectine Birds se... cates lass cae sieirapae tase wi Ma. ota deis clereetaleicte se ieee 91
CHAPTER XIII.
Preparing Bird Skins for Mounting................0.. Bcietetasatere ato eral 99
CHAPTER XIV.
Mounting Birds with Closed Wing’s...............000. Se ceca adaeses 102
; CHAPTER XV.
Mounting Birds with Spread Wings...............6 oes Suse o ste tata 106
CHAPTER XVI.
Memniine Dry Bird: Skins. s'... see desc ccna ccs ces MET aticoietsirse Tee 109
CHAPTER XVII.
PUTIN OM LECAGS es aie soe wma o5\2 selec chine oe tye ba: Sata e(aetatomsvorn (ata 49
Peele OMCs 5. cacceesereses- «e100
IX
Egg of the Baltimore Oriole........ 121
Hilky Group Obese a csua gett cee: Spee ul
Mika Stricken settee oe nc oeek 156
Feather for Making Mats........ .. 197
Feather for TrimmingLambrequins.197
Feather for Trimming Cushions....196
Heathers Ornaments js.5 026 see, oe 199
Heather! for Trimming. 22... sea. 195
Hern SaimnOCKS. sere sere cle anil sere: 186
Ferns, Group of Native... . .. ...183
Hield’ Mice; AsGroup off. 22-2. << 149
Fire-Lighting, or ‘* Jacking’? Ducks 97
Fish Properly Mounted............ 129
MUS SAN! case cote cece sls octsssee 136
Moxiini ay Era py hes wes oe oe eeeeie sees 41
Hox. Stalking DiGks io) sec sable ale os 175
Fox Watching Rabbit 172
Hrame tormareeiNetee sc. jie: 144
SHRUB Swot cyerek Mes Coates che vanes ss slate at nie 126
IH PONGIS PIE CMa eacie se ie's eee tee ere 2
Grebe Correctly Mounted.......... 102
Grouse gy ELUN GIy. cee ais» ceaiaeee ie 52
Gun, ImprovedBaker... .......... 45
Gun-Case> Vilcloria. occ... 3.6 esee- 47
Gun-Sling for Saddle .............. 51
Hadrosaurus, Skeleton of the...... 87
Hares little: Chieis 2 3.25. ucesno. 55
Hawks Properly Mounted....... .. 107
Head of Downy Woodpecker....... 112
Head of Muskellonge Mounted. ....133
Hermit Crab in Sea-Shell........... 138
13 hrvecvooyyavend 331N0 OE So apaeedaesbe nae Bee 111
Humming Bird’s Nest .o2..--.) =-. 200
Legging, Long Canvas............. 18
Legging, Short Canvas............. 18
TAVIS Se SeledaesoopsocosnedagescaEc 67
Manner of Wiring Small Animals. 82
Medallion. Wild Goose Head....... 112
Molds for Casting Heads........... 66
Moti, Promethia,. oo 2. Ss c0<<- 2. >- 140
Moth Properly Mounted............ 145
INamtilids) VaSCtermincs os sces eicciels «a. 178
INGCCKMOAER 26. Once ices cticcaees case 69
Nest of Baltimore Oriole...... See ieeel
xX ILLUSTRATIONS.
INGE ASMA es oe wtyswre's srectlaisioe sins 148
Ornithological Parts of a Bird...... 176
Patterns for Shields..........-..... 113
IPECCATICR cc reso cee eee eee 83
Peregrine,Falcon,and Mallard Duck 98
Pin-Tail Duck Properly Mounted. ..104
PLOLEEAILION-A TLUNOL seers eter tartaric 13
Position of Ironsina Large Animal. 79
Ram's Heads. 20s 5.2 ) sccnseaceisemer 169
RElOAMet esc coe ce eames ae eee 43
Rifle, Winchester Improved........ 42
Rocky Mountains, Travelling in the 30
Seals, Common or Harbor.......... Ry
Sea-Shell 2 :eaoes2t Sega eee 182
Sea-WLCHIN owns vein eciye Sane seme 1385
Shell, Metal ;.<; ce. cueceueeacieee eee 44
Shell Paper .ceese Uigsae oan eles Sette 44
Shoe, Patent Hunting. .2............ 16
shrews; -AvGroup'Of 2 nce... ot
Skin Properly Made........ Bec 100
Skin Ready for Re-turning........ 108
TOW SCENE acess sorcerer 163-
Spray of Hickory Leaves...........187
Spruce Grouse, Group of........... 148
Prappine! aH Ox... .cecesee wile 35
Trap) Grown deeseraast cess he ies clas 34
Wiater Ouzelsriss san entcce ane stsen clot 93
Woodcock on Shield............... 114
Yacht, Dravelling by; <2. «... =.
PUBLISHERS’ ANNOUNCEMENT.
JosEPH H. Barry, the author of this volume, has de-
voted sixteen years of active life to the work of collecting
and preserving animals, birds, fishes, ete. He was the
Official Taxidermist of the Northern Boundary Survey,
and also of the United States Geological Survey, under
Dr. Hayden—generally known as the Hayden Expedi-
tion. Mr. Batty has, likewise, been for many years Tax-
idermist for several of our leading Universities, Colleges,
Museums, and Public Parks.
His work entitled, ‘‘ How to Hunt and Trap,” pub-
lished some eighteen months since, has received the
warmest encomiums from recognized authorities, and
from both the American and the European press. We
anticipate a still more flattering reception for this vol-
ume, which is the result of long experience and practice,
and conveys a vast amount of information on the subjects
treated, not hitherto embodied in book form. There is
no similar work in existence. While Coues and Maynard
have devoted some space in their writings to Taxidermy,
they have merely touched upon branches which are
fully treated in this book.
The appreciation and love of ‘‘ Home Decoration”
increase with the growing taste and culture of the
American people. Our author’s chapters upon this sub-
ject are very timely, and will be keenly appreciated,
especially by ladies.
XI
PREFACH.
Good books on Taxidermy are not so common that I
need hesitate to venture into print with a few directions
of my own, written from practice and experience ; and in
so doing I may remark that, with careful observance of
instructions given, the student can make the art both a
profitable and a delightful recreation.
The mere skinning and stuffing of a specimen is but a
small portion of the Taxidermist’s real work or pleasure.
The hand must be turned to the making of cases, and the
eye trained to the blending of colors. ‘Taste must be
cultivated and exhibited in modelling and molding, and
Nature’s beauties should be imitated as closely as pos-
sible. Artificial rocks can be made to look as natural as
the moss-grown specimens in the woods, and trees can be
formed as graceful as those in their native forests.
With the growing fondness for Taxidermy, many la-
dies are endeavoring to master the art, and in the variety
of work necessary to perfect it, feminine taste and skill
can be brought effectively into play. The collector can
learn to mount his own specimens, the schoolboy his
game, and in the general household, a buck’s head in the
dining-room, or a bright oriole in the parlor, presents a
pleasing contrast to other ornaments. ds He.
XII
1) =
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OUR AUTHOR IN COSTUME.
PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
Cab Ae an Roi,
OUTFITTING.
Naturalists, as a rule, are hard workers, and in their
enthusiasm often fail to make suitable preparations
for an extended tour. In obtaining full collections, one
can have but little choice of climate or surface, and as
there is much to tax the strength, even under favorable
circumstances, clothing, bedding, and food, should be
most carefully looked after.
Heavy, soft under-clothing, and thick woollen overshirts
are essential to comfort, and the buckskin shirt and
breeches are far preferable to the skirted coat or woollen
pants. A soldier’s ‘‘caped” overcoat is desirable when
hunting at night, and it provides a warm coyerlet when
bedding is scanty. Thick woollen mittens worn over
woollen gloves make the warmest and lightest covering
for the hands, though buckskin gloves can be worn in
chopping, as the exercise produces circulation. In wear-
ing mittens in hunting, the forefinger should have a stall,
to facilitate the use of the trigger.
In a dry country, or at the north in winter, moccasins
or larigans (shoe-packs) should be worn on the feet.
Blanket footings wrapped over woollen socks, together
with a little hay in the bottom of shoes, will prevent
bruises, and in the severest weather protect the feet from
frost.
15
16 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
In a rocky or damp country, heavy shoes or boots are
required, and in mountainous regions those studded with
iron nails. The Improved Patent Shoe for sportsmen’s
use is the best.* It holds the
foot firmly by the self-adjust-
ing straps over the instep and
around the ankle, which is a
very quick and convenient mode
of fastening. This shoe is made
of brown and black Bismarck
grain leather, and is water-tight
to the top.
For rough work, wet travel-
ling, or when in the saddle,
laced boots of English grain
leather are decidedly the most serviceable and comfort-
able. The nails with which they are studded prevent
slipping, and the strap at the top and laces over the in-
step keep the leg of the boot from dropping. The lacing
also causes the boots to fit so snugly that the legs can:
not settle into large folds and chafe the ankle, and the
heel does not slip and blister the skin. If by accident
one gets in water over the tops, these boots can be easily
loosened at the ankle and taken off, while the ordinary
boot would be removed with great difficulty.
Leggings of canvas are light, and will do good service,
particularly in wet grass, high weeds, and thick bushes.
While being serviceable in protecting the limbs, they
likewise give elasticity to the hunter’s step, and do not
annoyingly catch on twigs, as do breeches. One can with
them noiselessly thread his way through the woods when
still hunting, and they are of excellent service when moc-
casins or shoe-packs are worn.
PATENT HUNTING SHOE.
* Any further information desired concerning this shoe. or other sportsman’s
accoutrements, guns, etc., alluded to in this volume, can be obtained by writing
to the Publishers.
OUTFITTING. Ly
Long leggings are most comfortable for winter use.
When wearing short ones, snow gets in at the tops, melts,
and often chills the hunter when not exercising. Short
leggings are desirable for summer and fall use, especially
pS
LACED HUNTING BOOTS.
on the plains. White ones worn in snow, and brown ones
on bare ground, are least conspicuous.
Leggings are made with a variety of fastenings, being
buckled, buttoned, laced, and tied. Laced leggings are
least troublesome, and can always be kept tight, while
other fastenings often become stretched and loose. Heavy
leather leggings, as a rule, are hot, uncomfortable, and
burdensome. If leg coverings of leather are preferred, it
is best to wear high top-boots. Rubber apparel is bur-
18 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
densome, generally not conducive to health, and should
be worn only for wading and fording, or on rainy days.
A light slouched hat should be worn in the summer
sun, and a warm skull cap in the winter. Four long
SHORT CANVAS LEGGING.
heavy California blankets
should be taken for bed-
ding, together with a small
pillow and large poncho or
a piece of canvas. The pon-
cho should be laid under the
bedding, in camp, and used
for a wrapper in travelling.
All the bedding should be
rolled in a convenient pack,
and bound together with
three soft leather straps.
If of extra length, the latter will be found useful in hang-
ing or packing game, making rafts, slinging guns, ete.
As large quantities of provisions as can be easily trans-
ported should be taken, and the variety should consist of
flour, grits, rice, hominy, bacon, dried fruits, tea, coffee,
LONG CANVAS LEGGING.
OUTFITTING. 19
sugar, condensed milk, baking powder, salt, pepper, and
a keg of molasses or syrup. ‘The traveller usually finds
meat in the woods, and with rifle, shot-gun, and traps,
can surely secure it.
Sundries, such as sperm candles, needies, pins, thread,
soap, tooth-brush, comb, and towels, are needed, and
horse-nair and wire shouid be taken for snares. An axe,
hatchet, aud whetstone will be constantly used, and a
Ti
A CAMP BAKER, CLOSED.
LN sa
water-proof match-box, or a flint and steel, is a necessity.
One may meet with an accident, or find himself ‘‘ under
the weather,” and as physicians are generally not to be
had in camp life, court plaster, cathartic pills, quinine,
and Dover’s powders should always be kept about the
person or in camp.
The cooking utensils should consist of a camp baker,
CAMP BAKER, OPEN.
tin cups, plates, knives, forks, spoons, frying pan, and
camp kettles, and two iron rods to make stands in the
20 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
fire. The folding camp baker is a convenient article for
use. To do good service, it must be kept clean and bright.
The new folding rubber pail will likewise be found
useful, especially in cold weather.
The collector’s kit for preparing and preserving speci-
mens, is simple, and a small chest will compactly carry it.
A set of instruments consists of a large and small scalpel
or cartilage knife, crooked scissors, small tweezers, long
and short forceps, brain spoon, needles and thread, and
a pair of strong cutting-forceps to facilitate the removal
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MOUNTING ANIMALS. 85
the skulls. Where the leg-bones would naturally join
the spinal column, two rings are twisted in the neck-
wire, through which the leg-wires are run, and twisted
firmly around the neck-wire, meeting or overlapping be-
tween the rmgs. When the skull is attached to the skin,
as is usually the case in small animals, 1t is roughly
modelled with potter’s clay before the skin is turned over
it. Owing to the connection of the skin and skull, the
head is easily modelled, and the eyes are readily set. The
body is bent in position, and filled out, prior to being
mounted on a stand.
An experienced taxidermist can do fine mounting by
casting an animal in parts, of plaster, and putting a flat
skin over the cast. In perfecting the anatomy of large
animals, it is often necessary to sew through the legs,
and to run bent wires into the body at different points.
No rules can be given for this kind of work. The
learner must rely upon his own judgment in bringing
out muscles, and perfecting the general form. Animals
mouths may be ‘‘ done” open in wax, and shaded in dry
colors, rubbed in, and the whole varnished.
Skins of all animals should be soft and phable before
mounted. Dry skins should be well immersed in pickle,
and be thoroughly cleaned. During cold weather, well-
cured skins may be placed in pure cold water a day or
two to soften, as it softens them much quicker than
pickle will. All skins need to be well tanned in a brine
of alum, salt, and saltpetre, to set and clean the hair
before they are mounted.
86 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
CHAPTER “XT.
PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS.
Cleaning bones is unpleasant labor, and collectors do
not engage in it with the same enthusiasm which they feel
‘in preparing other specimens. Zodlogists, however, who
know the scientific value of a good skeleton, will work
eagerly and industriously, when a rare mammal’s frame is
to be had for the cleaning. The amount of labor required
to prepare a skeleton, is over ten-fold that of mounting
the skin, though, when once cleaned and artificially artic-
ulated, in a scientific way, it becomes the most valuable
part of the animal.
When travelling by pack-train, and canoe, I have often
had my patience tried with the care of skeletons, and the
great majority of hunters and collectors cannot be inter-
ested in skeletology.
In the air of the plains, an animal’s frame will dry un-
tainted, if trimmed closely with a knife ; but in the East,
or, in the mountains of the West, skeletons should be
thoroughly cleaned at once, or they soon become offensive.
The frames of various animals are so different in sub-
stance and articulation, that no general rule can be given
for preparing them. Wire and cement are used in artifici-
ally articulating small skeletons, and heavy irons, pins,
and bolts, are employed in mounting large ones.
In cleaning the frame of any animal, watch the bones,
particularly when separated. At an unguarded moment,
dogs, cats, rodents, and birds, will destroy or carry them
off, and careless companions will break or lose them. In
caring for old skeletons, watch the teeth and claws, to
see that they do not fall from the skulls or tender pelts.
PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 87
To clean a large skeleton, carefully unjoint the first
cervical vertebra from the occipital bone. Remove the
brains without disfiguring the occipital orifice, and clean
off all flesh, without
injuring the two
small bones at the
root of the tongue,
and the gristle about
the passages of the
nose. Sever the
shoulders from the
trunk, by drawing
the knife between
the scapulars and
thorax. Unjoint the
hams from the hip-
bone. Clean the legs
by splitting the flesh
to the bone on one
side, and remove it
in as large pieces as
possible, inasmuch
as it will leave the
bone easier than
when removed in :
small flakes.- Un-
joint the cervical =
vertebree from the SKELETON OF THE HADROSAURUS.
thorax, and clean both by constant trimming with a knife.
Great care should be exercised in cleaning the chest, so
that the small gristly elastic ends of the ribs are not cut.
. Skeletons can be most substantially prepared with-
out boiling, or the use of lime, though more labor may be
required. When preparing a fresh skeleton, vigorously
rub the bones with sawdust. It will remove small parti-
cles of flesh, and is a good dryer. It is necessary to sep-
8
1o 6)
PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
arate the bones of a large skeleton, to clean them, and
the larger bones should be exposed to the sun, then
stripped and carefully scraped.
The spinal. column requires more labor in cleaning,
than the rest of the skeleton, on account of its inconven-
ient shape and the work of removing the tough tissues
which connect the vertebree.
The quickest and best way to prepare a skeleton, is to
sink it in the sea, if practicable, in a small-meshed net
bag, with a buoy to indicate its location. The thousands
of small marine animals will clean out every cavity more
rapidly and thoroughly than man can do the work. The
Bay of Fundy is one of the most favorable places in the
world for preparing skeletons. I have completed the
cleaning of very large seals in its waters, by sinking them
for a period of twenty-four hours only. So numerous
and voracious are the marine animals, that the frame
of a large fish will be bared in a single night. Portions
of a skeleton may also be buried in an ant-hill, and the
occupants will soon clean the bones. If the skeletol-
ogist is preparing his collections where marine animals
or ants cannot be utilized, and he wishes to accomplish
his work quickly, he will have to resort to boiling.
The bones should be cleaned with a knife, and then
boiled until every particle of flesh leaves them. During
the process, the water should be frequently changed, so
that the grease will not settle in and discolor the skeleton.
The bones should be slowly boiled at first, and for several
hours, before the flesh begins to leave them. They should
occasionally be taken from the pot, and loose particles re-
moved, in order to hasten the work. Boiling frequently
causes the caps of the larger bones to come off, and weak-
ens the skeleton generally.
Bones may be bleached by placing them in a lime-bath
and exposing tothe sun. I do not recommend the use of
lime, as it eats the enamel of the bones. Cold water and
PREPARING AND MOUNTING SKELETONS. 89
a hot summer’s sun will bleach sufficiently, and frost will
assist in winter.
Small skeletons may be cleaned by placing them in
water, and removing the decomposed flesh with a stiff
brush. The best way to prepare them, however, is with
the help of marine animals, ants, and dermestes, as de-
scribed above.
Large skeletons are generally mounted on a galvanized
iron frame, articulated with brass wires. No general
rule can be given which will apply to mounting all skele-
tons, as they vary greatly in size and form.
To mount a large skeleton of a ruminant, string the
vertebrae on a metal rod running into the occipital orifice
through the top of the skull. Fasten with a nut, and
support the whole by two upright
rods connecting with the artificial
spinal cord between the forelegs
and hindlegs. The scapulars, leg,
and other bones, must be attached
in their proper positions, by drill-
ing small holes through the bones,
and connecting them in various
rastentne Ways. ‘The taxidermist must use pasrentne
ae his Own judement.om dralline: and "AU rONEe.
fastening, placing the wires where they will hold best
and be the least observed.
A bow-drill is most useful in making holes, and the
bits should be sharp, and taper inwards, back from the
cutting edges, so that when used they will cut free and
easy.
To securely fasten small bones, drill and draw them
into position by a piece of polished annealed wire through
the holes, turning each end with round-nosed plers, in
two or more rings, until the wire is sufficiently taken up.
Wires proportionate to the size of the bones must be used.
Pliers of various size to turn them are also necessary.
90 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
The joints of legs may be fastened by making a saw-
kerf in the middle of the extremities of each bone, to re-
ceive a strip of heavy sheet brass, with a hole in each end
for the reception of pins. See illustration on the pre-
ceding page.
It is often necessary in mounting small skeletons to
weave and twist very small wire about the ribs, in order
to hold them in natural position. Whenever it is impor-
tant to secure a bone in position, wire is generally used,
except in fastening caps and.very small bones, in which
case cement is preferable.
COLLECTING BIRDS. ; 9]
Core A. PE Hs se 21.
COLLECTING BIRDS.
The experience of ornithologists usually makes them
careful hunters and good shots, yet, a few remarks on
collecting may be of value to amateurs, particularly if
thrown among a variety of species with which they are
not acquainted.
In general hunting for North American birds, No. 4
shot is heavy enough for the largest, if a gun is used that
does not exceed ten pounds in weight, a No. 10 in
bore. Nos. 1 and 2 shot may be used successfully for
sea and lake shooting, with unusually heavy guns, built
specially for such corn
Many hunters use too small a charge of powder and too
coarse shot. Muzzle-loading cylinder-bored guns will
stand, and require more powder than the choke-bore
breech-loaders, which are becoming so popular, particu-
larly for trap-shooting. Before ‘‘ chilled” shot were used,
the choke-bores were the best for long-range shooting,
with soft shot. Now nearly equal results at long-range
are obtained with cylinder bores and “chilled ” shot, and
choke-bores and soft shot. Many trials of all kinds of
guns, with various charges, have proved conclusively that
cylinder-bores are the best for general shooting.
“Chilled” shot can not be used in the average thin-
muzzled choke-bore gun with killing charges without
“bulging” and ruining the barrels. In shooting soft
shot from a choke-bore gun, they are completely jammed
out of their spherical form before they leave the weapon,
and although they will quickly kill a bird at short range,
they soon lose force, and do not penetrate or hold to-
gether like ‘‘ chilled” shot, which retains nearly its orig-
inal form after being fired.
92 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
Much of the success of the collector depends on having
his gun properly charged. For shooting small birds, a
light gun of small bore, loaded lightly with ordinary
pasteboard wads will answer. For shooting large birds at
long range, a heavy 12 or 10-bored gun is best, loaded
with two of Eley’s pink-edge wads over the powder, and
a light wad over the shot. Four or four and a half
drams of powder, with an ounce and a quarter of shot,
is a proper load for a solid 12-bore gun, and five and a
half or six drams of powder, with an ounce and a half
of shot, is a suitable charge for a heavy 10-bore gun. For
general shooting with cylinder-bored guns, the ducking,
or second grade powders, of medium grain, are the best.
Moist powders appear to give the best ‘‘ pattern,” though
when used in rapid firing with muzzle-loaders, miss fires
are liable to occur.
The first brands of American black powder, such as
Dupont’s Diamond Grain, Hazard’s Electric, Laflin &
Rand’s Orange Lightning, and the American Powder
Co.’s Telegraph Sporting, are quick, dry powders, best
adapted to breech-loading shot-guns. The various com-
panies sell equal grades to the trade at about the same
prices, but every collector has a favorite brand.
There are are about 640 species of birds in North
America, from the Mexican boundary to the Arctic
Ocean, and the collector will be compelled to visit nearly
every State and Territory to find them all. He will have
to cruise both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts for sea-
birds, scour the States on the Atlantic for many of the
smaller species, camp on the barren plains of the West
for the long-spurred buntings and other birds of the
prairies, and climb the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky
Mountains for the white-tailed ptarmigans, dusky grouse,
water ouzels, etc. One often finds birds of the same
genus at points thousands of miles apart.
In field collecting, birds, when first shot, should be
' Vy ,
i
Oe
\ a
ett
i
WATER OUZELS.
COLLECTING BIRDS. 95
handled with great care, until the bodies stiffen, and the
blood ceases to flow. When killed, they should be lifted
by the legs, and the blood removed from the plumage by
pressing it out with the blade of a dull knife. The blood
may also be absorbed, by using fine sawdust, corn-meal,
or bran.
The plumage should be well shaken and arranged, and
the specimen carefully carried until camp is reached. A
large-sized fish-basket, slung from the shoulder, is the
best receptacle for small birds. They may be buried in fine
sawdust, wrapped in sheet-wadding, or placed heads down-
ward in paper funnels. The funnels should extend be-
yond the end of the tails, and so folded as to prevent the
feathers from being cramped and disfigured.
Large birds are troublesome to carry. They should be
hung by the legs over the shoulder, where they will be of
little inconvenience, and rest quietly without chafing the
plumage. Birds with a soft plumage, and long wings
and tails, are the most disfigured in transportation.
Others with a hard plumage, such as ducks, divers,
erebes, guillemots, etc., will stand rough handling and
make up well in skins.
The sexes of American birds of the same species, vary
greatly in size and plumage, while others are precisely
alike in plumage. With some, such as the ducks, grouse,
crows, black-birds, and most of our bright-plumaged
birds, the adult males are easily recognized by their large
size and bright colors.
With eagles, hawks, owls, gulls, sand-pipers, plovers,
snipe, woodcock, etc., the females, though nearly like the
males in plumage, are much larger in size, and adults
may be easily recognized.
Many species do not attain their full plumage until the
third or fourth year, and nearly all sport a different dress
for spring and autumn. ‘The spring plumage of nearly
all species is bright and beautiful, while, with but few ex-
96 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
ceptions, the fall dress is of a dull color. The Baltimore
oriole is one of the remarkable species which appear in
August with a brighter, prettier plumage than in spring.
The plumage of the ‘‘ young of the year,” or the young
male of many species, often resembles the adult females ;
in such instances, it is best to determinate the sex by
dissection.
The generative organs are much larger during the
pairing season, than at any other period of the year.
The seminal glands of a warbler are as large as a pea,
in spring, when late in the autumn they are no larger
than a No. 8 shot. The ovaries of female birds lie in the
same relative position as the generative organs of the
male, and are easily recognized, though in winter a small
lens will be found useful in examination. The genera-
tive organs lie close to and in the cavity of the spine,
where the ribs commence. ‘The ovaries are two in num-
ber, and one exceeds the other in size, particularly in the
laying season.
Good shooting is, so to speak, a natural gift, though
with practice any one can become a fair shot. In
close range rifle-shooting at a stationary mark, steady
nerves, a keen eye, and practice, are all that are
necessary. In shooting at moving objects, however, cal-
culation is the key to success. In ordinary rifle-shooting,
a steady pressure on the trigger brings the best results,
but in using the shot-gun, much snap-shooting is neces-
sary.
There are two modes of shooting a crossing bird on the
wing, viz., taking a snap-shot ahead of the bird, or coy-
ering the beak, and discharging the gun with a steady
pressure while following the object. The latter is the
best and surest method, though, in early practice, ama-
teurs will shoot behind the game.
In shooting ducks and other birds of rapid flight that
are fairly started on the wing, you must lead according
COLLECTING BIRDS. 97
to the distance they may be away. A duck, going before
the wind fifty yards distant, should be led from four to
six feet, according to its speed. One rising from the
water at forty yards, can be brought down by aiming at
the end of the bill.
A driving bird, or bird flying straight from the shoot-
er, should be well covered, and the trigger pressed when
the game has disappeared under the gun barrels.
In general hunting, the collector will become accus-
temed to the various sounds of the forest, and any strange
note or noise will quickly attract his attention.
RTs] Toa ~ umn
a
PREPARING BIRD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. 99
CHAPTER XIII.
PREPARING BIKD SKINS FOR MOUNTING.
In removing the skin from a bird, the body should be
dusted from time to time with corn-meal, or fine saw-
dust. This absorbs all moisture, and prevents the plu-
mage from being soiled.
Some writers recommend the use of plaster when skin-
ning birds. That thisshould be effective is an erroneous
idea, inasmuch as it dries the skins so quickly that it is
difficult to ‘‘return” them. If applied to the necks of
some species of woodpeckers and parrots, it would be im-
possible to return them to their natural position. Plaster
fills the pores of one’s skin, chaps and cracks the hands,
and, when mixed with grease in preparing fat birds, it is
removed only with great difficulty from the hands. Corn-
meal softens the hands, and is the best absorbent when
‘“working on” small birds.
When preparing a skin, place the bird on its back, and
run a long piece of cotton loosely down the throat with
forceps, or by twisting it around the end of a wire. If
the specimen be a large bird, plug the nostrils with cot-
ton, to prevent the saliva from oozing and soiling the
plumage. Break the wing-bones near the body to fa-
cilitate handling. Make a longitudinal cut from the
breast-bone to the vent, and push the body away from
the skin with the knife, holding the skin firmly be-
tween the thumb and fingers of the left hand, and cut-
ting as little as possible.
When the skin has been removed far enough to expose
the shins, shp them up and unjoint them at the knee, and
cut through the flesh until the skin is lain bare. Flay
down to the vent, cut off the extremity of the body which
100 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
holds the tail feathers, and remove the skin to the wings,
cutting through them where broken. Flay to below the
eyes, cut off the neck, close to the head, and remoye
SKIN PROPERLY MADE.
the triangular lower portion of
the skull, taking out the brains.
Remove the eyes, by sliding the
brain-spoon under them, with a
circular motion. Cut away all
flesh from the skull, leg, and wing
bones, unjointing the broken
main bones of the wings from the
double bones or fore-arms. In
preparing some species of birds,
with large heads and small necks,
such as wood-ducks, green-wing
teal, some species of woodpeckers,
cockatoos, etc., it is best to open
the scalp from the outside after
the body has been severed from
the skull and the skin returned.
The incision may be made length-
wise of the head, back of the eye,
or along the top of the head;
the latter mode is much more
desirable for birds with crests.
Pass a thread between the bones
of both wings, and draw them
nearly together, and tie in posi-
tion. Dust the whole fleshy side
of the skin freely with dry arsenic,
crowd the eye-holes full of cot-
ton, wrap the leg-bones with the
same, draw them back in natural
position, and return the skin. Should the neck become
stretched, and difficult to return, soap will cause it to slip
over the head readily.
PREPARING BIRD SKINS FOR MOUNTING. 101
Smooth the plumage, fill out the body with stuffing,
sew up the skin, cross the legs, tie them, and wrap the
skin closely, in split sheet-cotton or thin paper.
In filling out a skin, a piece of the stuffing should be
made in a taper roll, and the small end pushed up into
the throat of the bird. Other pieces should be laid in
the body of the skin until it is full, previous to sewing it
up. ‘This will prevent the neck of a bird from drawing ©
and drying in a long unnatural form. A drying-board
will be found useful when making skins at home or in
a permanent camp.
It is made by gluing beveled pieces of thin, flat wood
of the same size, on a board, equal distances apart.
ly
tl
DRYING-BOARD.
Pieces of heavy manilla paper are fitted between the cross-
boards, and glued in position so as to form semi-cylin-
drical gutters. In making drying-boards for large skins,
tin may be used in place of paper, and tacked in position.
Skins prepared for scientific use, should have a small
tag attached to the legs, with the sex marked on one side,
and the number of the skin on the other. A duplicate
number should be entered in a note-book, where data can
be written for reference.
When skins are placed in a cabinet, a large label should
be tied to each, giving the species, sex, locality, and date
of collection.
102 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
CHAPTER XIV.
MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED wINGs.
If a bird is soiled with blood, wash the parts in cold
water, and dry the plumage as much as possible with a
cloth or sponge. Cover the wet feathers with calcined
plaster, rubbing it lightly into the plumage until the
feathers are dry
and assume their
natural appear-
ance. ‘To remove
the plaster from
Ney the plumage, vig-
i
ne ‘N \
mdh
A: oe ri = orously beat the
oy “gins
bird with the wing
of a fowl or a
brush-broom. Re-
move the body in
the same manner
- as when prepar-
- ing askin. Roll
up a small ball of
tow and crowd it
tightly into the
skull. Wind tow
around a_ wire,
pointed at both
ends, until it be-
comes about the
length and size of
a natural neck, leaving both ends sufficiently uncovered
to clinch through the skull and body. Fasten the tow
with thread or string, to keep it tight and in proper form.
GREBE CORRECTLY MOUNTED,
MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. 103
Pass the short end of the wire up through the tow and
back of the skull, clinch firmly by repassing it through
the fore part of the skull and fasten it through the eye-
hole with a pair of round-nosed pliers.
Fill out the eyes to nearly their natural size with putty
or potter’s clay, and dust the whole fleshy side of the skin
with dry arsenic, which is best applied with the hind foot of
ahare. Fat birds, and particular-
ly large ones, should have the
skin well primed with arsenical
soap. Between the wings and on
the shoulders of the bird-skin,
are two yellowish lines where the
quills of the feathers are inclined
to protrude through the skin.
These should be caught up with
a needle and thread, and drawn
nearly together, then tied in posi-
tion. Inaskin ofa bird of the size
of a red-tailed hawk, they should
be tied an inch and a half apart.
Other bird-skins should be drawn
up in proportion to their size.
Return the leg-bones in posi-
tion, and also the skin, by passing
the head through the neck. Pick
out the eye-lids in their natural
form, with a needle or small for- SKIN READY FOR RE-
TURNING.
ceps, and arrange the plumage
smoothly. Make a body the shape and size of the natural
one, by rolling up a bunch of excelsior, sea-grass, or tow,
winding into form with twine or thread. Pass the neck-
wire through the body lengthwise, pull the skin carefully
over the body, and clinch the protruding neck-wire firmly.
Never use skeleton or soft bodies, as they will not hold
wires sufficiently tight to keep a bird in form.
104 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
Wire the legs by running pointed wires through them
from the center of the feet up behind the bones. Fasten
the leg-bones to the wires by wrapping them with tow and
twine, making the legs a trifle smaller than they were
naturally. Slip the wires further through the legs and
let them pass obliquely through the body from the sides
to the fore-breast. Clinch them firmly in the body,
PIN-TAIL DUCK PROPERLY MOUNTED.
straighten the legs parallel with the sides, fill out the
throat and front of the breast with soft stuffing to nat-
ural size, then sew up the skin. Smooth down the plu-
mage, bend in a natural position, and fasten to a stand.
Apply mucilage to the inside of the eyelids, press the
artificial eyes tightly in position, then ‘‘ pick out” the
eyelids over the eyes with a needle.
With large birds, a little modelling is necessary to per-
fect the anatomy around the eyes. Care should be taken
in arranging the eyelids naturally, as it adds greatly to
the life-like appearance. fasten the bill together, by
MOUNTING BIRDS WITH CLOSED WINGS. * 105
passing a thread through the nostrils and base of the
under mandible, and tie in position.
To wire the tailis one of the most delicate tasks for the
tyro, and should be done as follows: Pass a long,
smoothly-pointed piece of small wire through each tail
feather at the flat part of the quill near the body, and
spread the tail in accordance with the position of the
bird. A large wire should be run through the fleshy part
of the tail, from the under side, into the body, so that
the tail be made to rest in any position.
Secure the wings by sticking sharp pieces of wire
through them into the shoulders. Stick small, pointed
wires or pins in different parts of
the body, and wind the plumage
lightly down in position with fine
thread, and leave until dry.
The plumage may be made to
lay smoother by touching the
rough places with a feather wet
in turpentine. When a bird 1s
first taken, note the color of eyes,
cere, gular sack, and legs, so that
it can be painted naturally when
mounted.
A natural crook of a tree makes
an ornamental stand. To facili- BopY AND NECK, sHow1na
tate handling, small birds are i ea
usually mounted on a JT stand, and removed when needed
for cases. Large birds, as far as practicable, are placed
on the stands they are to remain on, when first mounted.
When a bird is thoroughly dried, clip off the wrap-
pings of thread, cut off projecting wires, and remove
pins. Paint necessary parts, and varnish beak, legs, and
talons, to preserve from decay and protect from the at-
tacks of insects.
106 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
CHAPTER XV.
MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS.
When a bird is to be stuffed with spread wings, it
should be skinned in the usual manner, as heretofore des-
cribed, but the main bones of the wings should be left
attached to the double ones and not broken. ‘To do this
it is necessary to cut into the breast of the bird when
skinning it, and unjoint the wings from the body. The
flesh is removed from the wing-bones to the second joints
from the inside of the skin. The flesh about the double
bones should be removed from the outside, by making a
cut over them lengthwise and on the under side of the
wing. By pushing back the feathers, a large bare place
will be found on most birds, where the incision can be
made. When cleaning the wing, skin back carefully
from both sides of the incision, and remove the flesh by
pulling and cutting it out in pieces. The end of the
fleshy part of the wing should be primed with corrosive
sublimate, dissolved in alcohol and water. These parts
are the first attacked by dermestes. Dust the wings well
with dry arsenic, substitute potter’s clay, firmly packed,
for the removed flesh, sew up the skin by cross-stitch-
ing from the under sides, and the feathers will fall
smoothly and cover the seam.
The wing-wires should be sharpened at both ends, and
must be of sufficient length to clinch through the body.
Run the end of the wire from the inside up the wing,
between the skin and bones, and twist firmly into the
fleshy tip where the primaries or first long feathers grow
out. Lash the wing-bone tightly to the wire, and wind
firmly with tow, then wrap securely with twine into natu-
MOUNTING BIRDS WITH SPREAD WINGS. 107
ralshape. Smooth the plumage, lay the bird on its back,
and insert artificial body. It is necessary to run the
neck and wing-wires through the body at the same time,
HAWKS PROPERLY MOUNTED, WITH SPREAD WINGS.
on account of their length. The neck-wire is extended
through the body lengthwise, and the wing-wires diago-
nally from the shoulders, and all are then clinched inside.
108 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
The leg-wires are arranged the same as described in
mounting birds with closed wings, and the skin sewed
up by cross-stitching. ‘The wings should then be bent
with their backs near together, and bent also at the
joints to give them a natural curve. Nature is often rep-
resented by placing a stuffed bird or animal in the talons
of birds of prey before they are placed on stands. This
is done by running the front leg-wire through the speci-
men and resting it in a natural position. ‘The ends of
long wires should be stuck in the back and carried up
under the wings, and doubled over the ends, to keep the
quill-feathers regular and in position until dry. Strips
of card-board should be pinned to the bird, to hold the
plumage in position.
Birds to be suspended should have the wings raised
slightly more than horizontal, and be hung by a wire run
through the body from the back, and clinched in the breast.
The legs of a white pigeon should have the wires cut off
close to the feet, and then be bent in natural’ position.
An eagle, hawk, or owl, may be suspended with its prey
in its talons drawn closely to the body.
There can be no positive rules of detail for the last
touches of this art, as a taxidermist’s knowledge of an-
atomy and taste of arrangement will suggest the shape
and position of birds.
MOUNTING DRY BIRD SKINS. 109
CHAPTAR: evi.
MOUNTING DRY BIRD SKINS.
To mount a large dry bird-skin well, requires experience
and patience. Small skins are more easily stuffed, though
they require proper and delicate treatment.
All dried skins need dampening and softening previous
to mounting, and a box should be prepared for the pur-
pose as follows: Make a tight box of tongue-grooved
boards large enough to receive the skins without bending
them. ‘The cover should drop inside and rest flush with
the top on cleats. The box should be filled about
four inches deep with wet sand, covered with paper on
which the skins are laid. The dampness from the sand
is sufficient to soften hummuing-bird skins ready for
mounting in from six to twenty-four hours, according to
the size of the skin.
Larger skins, the size of warblers, should have the legs
wrapped in wet cotton for a few hours when in the box.
A bird the size of a robin should have the eye-holes wet,
a damp piece of cotton or tow placed in the skin, and
worked well up in into the neck, and the legs wrapped in
wet material. When the skin has been in the box about
ten hours, it is ready for mounting. Larger birds, such
as herons, curlews, cranes, etc., should remain in the
box with their legs in wet wrappings until they are soft
enough to admit of being wired. The inside of the skins
should then be dampened over night or longer, according
to their size and condition. It will often take a week to
get a skin soft enough to work well in mounting. The
wings of large birds, which are to be spread, should
be thoroughly and repeatedly dampened every night for
110 PRACTICAL TAXIDERMY.
several days. A weak solution of carbolic acid and#water
should be used for moistening large skins in warm
weather, as clear water will cause some parts of them to
get in a semi-putrid state when soft, and the scales and
skin of the legs to rub off when handled in wiring. When
askin is dampened for mounting, ail stuffing should be
removed with forceps, and the skull filled full with
“‘chopped tow.”