Science KANSAS TECHNICAL INSTITUTE LIBRARY From the collection of the 7 n _ z _ m o Prelinger v JJibrary t P San Francisco, California 2006 Practice. a#id Science STANDARD BARBERING A practiced and complete course of training in basic barber services and related barber science. Prepared Especially For Use By BARBER SCHOOLS BARBER APPRENTICES BARBER STUDENTS PRACTICING BARBERS IN PREPARATION FOR BARBER STATE BOARD EXAMINATIONS Copyright 1951 Milady Publishing Corp. Printed in U.S.A. 1953 Printing MILADY PUBLISHING CORP. 3837-3839 WHITE PLAINS AVENUE :: NEW YORK 67, N. Y. FOREWORD "The Practice and Science of Standard Barbering" marks a major advance in barber training. With the help of leading barber schools, instructors and educators, all the essential fundamentals and know-how of barbering have been combined into one comprehensive textbook. Step-by-step instructions are clearly described for basic barber services. Many illustrations, charts, examinations and a glossary have been included. The regular study of this text assures complete training and thorough preparation for State Board Examinations. Every barber who wants to combine professional skill with modern, scientific knowledge, and desires to maintain high standards of service will find that this text answers a real need. THE AUTHOR. 1 History of Barbering 1 Origin of the Barber; Superstitions in Barbering; Beautifying the Body; Significance of the Beard; Greek and Roman Influence; Razors of the Past; English Influence; The Rise and Fall of Barber- Surgeons. Modern Trends; Historical Notes on Barbering; Haircuts and Beards in Vogue at the Onset of the 20th Century; Haircuts and Beards in Vogue During the 19th Century. Review Questions and Answers on History of Barbering 10 PART I 2 Personal Hygiene 15 Good Health; Personal Hygiene; Public Hygiene; Mental Hygiene; Cleanliness; Air; Food; Posture; Types of Standing Posture; Exercise; Sleep; Good Health Habits; Your Personal Hygiene is Very Important. Your Personality Chart; Personal Inventory; Rating Your Person- ality; Personality Improvement; Record of Personality Improvement. Review Questions and Answers on Personal Hygiene 24 3 Bacteriology 25 Bacteriology Defined; Classification of Bacteria; Pathogenic and Non-Pathogenic Organisms; Parasites; Structural Classification of Bacteria; Three General Forms of Bacteria; Groupings of Bacteria; Six Disease-Producing Bacteria; Movement of Bacteria; Bacterial Growth and Reproduction; Spore-Forming Bacteria; Infection; Local Infection; General Infection. Common Contagious Diseases Met in the Barber Shop; The Routes in which Bacteria Enter the Body; Immunity; Natural Immunity; Acquired Immunity; Human Disease Carrier; Destruction of Bacteria. Review Questions and Answers on Bacteriology 30 4 Sterilization 33 Sterilization Defined; Methods of Sterilization; Physical Agents; Chemical Agents; Forms of Heat; Boiling; Steaming; Dry Heat; Light; Antiseptics and Disinfectants; Wet Sterilizer; Using Alcohol as Sterilizing Agent; Sterilizing Instruments Having a Fine Cutting Edge; Sterilizing Electrodes; Dry Sterilizer; How Fumigant is Pre- pared; Formalin Defined; Formalin Used in Various Strengths; Pro- portions for Making Percentage Solutions; Table of Equivalents. How to Sterilize: Combs and Brushes; Metallic Implements; Electrodes; Moist Heat Sterilization. Preparations Used in Barber Shops; Antiseptic Preparations; Disin- fectant Preparations; Definitions Pertaining to Sterilization; Safety Precautions; Sterilization Rules. Review Questions and Answers on Sterilization 44 5 Sanitation 47 Sanitation Defined; Board of Health; State Board of Barbering; Importance of Sanitation; Water and Soap; Sanitary Rules. Review Questions and Answers on Sanitation ... ... 50 PART II 6 Will You Be A Success or Failure? 52 What to Do in Order to be Successful. 7- Barber Implements 53 Straight Razors; Balance of Razor; Grind of Razor; Tempering the Razor; Size of Razor; Finish of Razor; Care of Razors. Haircutting Shears; The French Type; The German Type; Size and Grinds of Shears; Thinning Shears. Clippers; The Hand Clipper; Electric Clippers; Cutting Thickness. Hones; Natural Hones; Synthetic Hones; Water Hone; Belgium Hone; Swaty Hone; Carborundum Hone; General Information on Hones; Care of Hones. Strops; Canvas and Leather Strops; How Strops are Broken In and How They Are Taken Care Of; Russian Strop; Russian Shell; Horsehide Strop. Accessory Implements; Combs; Brushes; Lather Receptacles; Shav- ing Soap; Tweezer; Comedone Extractor. Review Questions and Answers on Barber Implements 68 8 Honing and Stropping 71 Honing Defined; Preparation for Honing; How to Hold Razor; How to Stroke Razor; Testing Razor Edge; Care of Hones. Stropping Defined; Technique; Care of Strops. Review Questions and Answers on Honing and Stropping 77 9 Face Shaving 79 Why Face Shaving is Important; Fundamentals of Face Shaving; Four Standard Shaving Positions and Strokes; Free Hand Position and Stroke; Back Hand Position and Stroke; Reverse Free Hand Position and Stroke; Reverse Back Hand Position and Stroke. Shaving: How to Prepare A Customer; How to Prepare the Face for Shaving; Positions and Strokes in Shaving; The Second Time Over; Once Over Shave; Close Shaving; Accidental Cuts in Shav- ing; Wrapping Towel Around Hand; Final Steps in Face Shaving; Neck Shave; Why A Customer May Find Fault with a Shave; The Mustache; Styles of Mustaches. Special Problems; Eyebrow Shaping; Tweezing; Trimming Eyebrows; Styptic Powder; Blackheads; Whiteheads; Ingrown or Wild Hair. Review Questions and Answers on Face Shaving 109 10 Men's Haircutting 113 Haircutting Defined; Fundamentals in Haircutting; Haircutting Im- plements; Important Steps for a Complete Haircut. Haircutting: How to Prepare A Customer; Clipper Technique; Shears and Comb Technique; Arching Technique; Finger and Shears Technique; Front Outline; Preparation for a Neck Shave; Shaving Outlined Areas; Final Checkup; Combing of the Hair; Sanitary Reminders; Why A Customer May Find Fault with a Haircut; Basic Steps of a Standard Haircut. The Art of Basic Haircutting; The Short Cut; The Medium Cut; Medium Trim; Long Trim; Short Pompadour; Medium Pompadour; Long Pompadour; Sideburns. Special Problems; Hair Thinning; Shear Point Tapering; Beards; Singeing. Popular Hair Styles; For Men; For Boys; Principles of Men's Hair Styling; Face with Regular Features; The Short Round Face; The Long Thin Face. Review Questions and Answers on Men's Haircutting 158 11 Shampooing 161 Shampooing Defined; Preparation of Supplies; How to Prepare A Customer for Inclined Position; How to Prepare A Customer for Reclined Position; Step-by-Step Procedure for a Plain Shampoo; Massage Manipulations During Shampoo; Common Faults in Sham- pooing; Superior Shampoo Service. Special Shampoos; Hot Oil Shampoo; Egg Shampoo; Special Shampoos. Review Questions and Answers on Shampooing 168 12 Hair Tonics 170 Hair Tonics Defined; When to Use Hair Tonics; Benefits of Hair Tonics; Scalp Steam. Review Questions and Answers on Hair Tonics 172 13 Scalp Treatments 173 Scalp Massage; Benefits of Scalp Massage; Step-by-Step Pro- cedure for Scalp Massage; When to Recommend Scalp Treatments; General Scalp Treatment. Special Problems; Dry Scalp Treatment; Oily Scalp Treatment; Dandruff Treatment; Treatment for Alopecia. Review Questions and Answers on Scalp Treatments 182 14 Theory of Massage 183 Massage Defined; Effleurage; Petrissage; Friction; Percussion or Tapotement; Vibration; Physiological Effects of Massage; Electrical Appliances Used with Massage. Review Questions and Answers on Theory of Massage 187 15 Facial Treatments 189 Benefits of Facial Treatments; Equipment Needed; Plain Facial; Preparation for Plain Facial; Step-by-Step Procedure for Plain Facial; Rolling Cream Massage; Points to Remember in Facial Massage; Why A Customer May Find Fault with a Facial Massage; Facial Massage Movements Using Hands; Facial Massage Move- ments Using Vibrator; Rules to Follow in Using Vibrator. Review Questions and Answers on Facial Treatments 196 Special Problems; Dry Skin Facial; Facial for Oily Skin and Black- heads; Facial for Whiteheads; Clay Pack; Hot Oil Mask; Bleach Pack; Acne Facial; Acne Rosacea Facial; Faradic Facial. Review Questions and Answers on Special Facial Problems 208 PART III 16 Anatomy and Physiology 211 Importance of Anatomy and Physiology; Definitions of Anatomy, Physiology and Histology; Cells; Tissues; Organs; Systems. Review Questions and Answers on Anatomy and Physiology 217 17 Skeletal System 219 Skeletal System Defined; Composition of Bones; Types of Bones; Nutrition of Bones; Functions of Bones; Forms or Shapes of Bones; Joints; Cartilage and Ligaments; Bones of the Head, Face and Neck. Review Questions and Answers on Bones 225 18 Muscular System 227 Muscular System Defined; Function of Muscles; Origin and In- sertion of Muscles; Nutrition of Muscles; Types of Muscles; Stim- ulation of Muscles; Muscles of the Head, Face and Neck. Review Questions and Answers on Muscles 236 19 The Nervous System 239 Nervous System Defined; Functions of the Nervous System; Neurons (Nerve Cells); Sensory Nerves; Motor Nerves; Cerebro-Spinal Sys- tem; Sympathetic or Autonomic System; Nerve Fatigue; Nutrition of Nerves; Important Nerves of the Head, Face and Neck; Motor Nerve Points of the Head. Questions and Answers on Nerves _.. 250 20 Circulatory (Vascular) System 253 Circulatory System Defined; Blood Vascular System; The Function of the Blood Vascular System; The Heart; The Blood Vessels; Circulation of Blood; Composition of Blood; Functions of Blood. The Lymph Vascular System; Lymphatic Structures; Composition and Functions of Lymph. Arteries and Veins; Important Arteries and Veins of Head, Face and Neck. Review Questions and Answers on Circulation 266 21 Endocrine System 269 Endocrine System Defined; Types and Functions of Glands. Review Questions and Answers on Endocrine Glands 271 22 Excretory System 272 Excretory System Defined; Organs; Urinary System; Liver. Review Questions and Answers on Excretion 273 23 Respiratory System 274 Respiratory System Defined; Organs; Lungs; Breathing. Review Questions and Answers on Respiration 276 24 Digestive System 277 Digestive System Defined; Physical and Chemical Changes in Digestion; Process of Digestion; Overcoming Constipation. Review Questions and Answers on Digestion _ 280 25 The Skin 281 The Skin Defined; Structure of the Skin; Blood and Lymph Supply to the Skin; Nerves of the Skin; Pliability of the Skin; Color of the Skin; Sweat and Oil Glands; Functions of the Skin. Review Questions and Answers on The Skin 286 26 The Hair 288 Hair Defined; Composition of Hair; Shapes of Hair; Structure of Hair; Color of Hair; Regeneration of Hair; Life and Density of Hair. Review Questions and Answers on Hair 294 27 Electricity 297 Benefits of Electricity; How Electricity is Produced; How Electricity is Transmitted; Electrodes; Forms of Electricity; Types of Electrical Circuits; Safety Practices; Electrical Measurements; High-Frequency Current; Methods of Using Tesla Current; The Vibrator; Wall Plate; Galvanic Current; Other Electrical Currents. Review Questions and Answers on Electricity 305 28 Light Therapy 307 Composition of Light; Speed of Light; How Light Rays Are Repro- duced; Ultra-Violet Rays; Infra-Red Rays; Visible White Light; Visible Blue Light; Visible Red Light. Review Questions and Answers on Light Therapy 313 29 Chemistry 315 Chemistry Defined; Organic Chemistry; Inorganic Chemistry; Matter; Changes in Matter; Acids, Bases and Salts; Chemistry of Water; United States Pharmacopeia. Chemistry Applied to Cosmetics; Classification of Cosmetics in the Barber Shop; Powders; Solutions; Emulsions; Ointments; Soaps; Shaving Soaps; Chart of Cosmetics for Skin, Scalp and Hair. Review Questions and Answers on Chemistry 324 30 Diseases of the Skin, Scalp and Hair 327 Importance of Disease Recognition; Skin Lesions; Primary Skin Lesions; Secondary Skin Lesions; Definitions of Disease Terms; Diseases of Sebaceous (Oil) Glands; Diseases of the Sudoriferous (Sweat) Glands; Dandruff; Skin Inflammations; Types of Alopecia; Parasitic Affections; Non-Contagious Hair Affections; Skin Pigment- ations; Skin Growths; Nail Disorders. The Control of Venereal Disease; Syphilis; Gonorrhea. Review Questions and Answers on Diseases of Skin, Scalp and Hair 359 PART IV 31 Women's Haircutting 365 32 Finger Waving and Pin Curling 379 33 Men's Hair Bleaching 387 34 Men's Hair Tinting 400 35 Barber Ethics 427 Barber Ethics Defined; Good Ethics; Poor Ethics. 36 Barber Shop Management 428 Functions Performed by a Barber Shop; Organizing the Barber Shop; Types of Ownership; Selecting the Right Location; Equipping the Barber Shop; Advertising the Barber Shop; Salesmanship in the Barber Shop; Records in the Barber Shop; Operating and Admini- strative Expenses; First Aid; Things to Consider When Going into Business; Business Law for the Barber Shop. 37 State Board Educational Requirements for Barber Licenses of All States 439 PART V 38 Review Examinations 441 1000 Latest Type Examination Questions with Answers. PART VI 39 Glossary 469 40 Bibliography 502 HISTORY OF BARBERING HISTORY OF BARBERING The history of barbering is deeply rooted in the progress of mankind. As civilization advanced, barbering developed from an insignificant practice to a recognized vocation. To study the history of barbering is to appreciate the accom- plishments and the role of the barber in early times. This rich cultural heritage should be the basis for prestige and respect in serving the public. Primitive man had to devise rather crude instruments with which to cut the hair. Simple cutting implements were usually prepared from sharpened flint or oyster shells. To this very day, the savages of Polynesia still use similar objects in cutting the hair. Superstitions The beginning of barbering was steeped in strange super- stitions. There was a general belief among savages that people could be bewitched by hair clippings. Hence, the privilege of hair cutting was designated to the priest or medicine man of the tribe. The Irish peasantry believed that if hair cuttings were burned or buried no evil spirits would haunt the individual. Among the American Indians, the belief existed that the hair had a vital connection with the body, and that "any- one possessed of a lock of hair of another might work his will on that individual." It was the widespread ancient belief in the magic in- fluence of long-haired persons which caused Roman judges to order the hair of Christian martyrs cut before putting them to death. Origin of the Barber As far back as four hundred years before Christ, shaving was introduced by the Macedonians. Later it spread to Egypt and all Eastern countries, including China. The word barber is derived from a Latin word "barba" meaning HISTORY OF BARBERING beard. The word tonsorial in Latin means the cutting, clipping and trimming of hair with shears or cutting with a razor. Beautifying the Body The Egyptians were the first to cultivate beauty in an extravagant fashion. Excavations from tombs have brought to light such relics as combs, brushes, mirrors and cosmetics. Eye paint was the most popular of all cosmetics. Slaves enhanced the beauty of the Egyptian ladies by applying perfumed oil to their skins and henna to their hair. Significance of the Beard Although the importance of the beard belongs more with the past than to the present, nevertheless, it is interesting to note the various fashions and customs associated with it. A curious custom of the Middle Ages was that of im- bedding three hairs from the king's beard in the wax of the seal. During the reign of Queen Elizabeth in England, it was fashionable to dye the beard and cut it into a variety of shapes. In early times, the beard was considered by almost all nations as a sign of wisdom, strength and manhood, and was carefully cherished as being almost sacred. Among the Jews, the beard was regarded as a symbol of manliness; to cut off another man's beard was an outrage. According to the Greek philosopher, Pythagoras, the hair was the source of the brain's inspiration and the cutting of the hair de- creased intellectual capacity. In Rome, the first day of shaving (22nd birthday) was looked upon as a sign of manhood and was celebrated with great festivities. The commands of certain rulers were at times responsible for the removal of beards. For instance, Alexander the Great ordered his soldiers to shave so that their enemies might not seize their beards in battle. After the Gauls were conquered, Julius Caesar compelled them to cut off their beards. Peter the Great made shaving compulsory by imposing a tax on beards. HISTORY OF BARBERING 3 In the spread of the Christian faith, long hair gradually became to be despised because it was considered sinful. Hence the clergy were directed to shave their beards. Among the Jews, shaving of the beard was forbidden, but they used the scissors to remove all excess hair. The Moslems observed great care in trimming the beard after prayer, and the hairs that fell out were carefully picked up and preserved for subsequent burial with the owner. Barbers first became popular in Rome about the year 296 B.C. In Greece, barbers became popular as early as 500 B.C. Greek and Roman Influence In Greece and Rome, barbering was a highly developed art. Persons of means were shaved by their valets. The common people frequented the barber shops which were the resorts of loungers and newsmongers. The Greeks and Romans gave considerable attention to beautifying the hair. Sparkling gems and hairpins of silver and gold adorned the elegant hair styles of the Greek women. The Roman women often dyed their hair, and some replaced the hair with fashionable wigs. In ancient Rome, the color of a woman's hair indicated her rank. Women of the nobility tinted their hair red ; those of the middle class colored their hair yellow; while women of the poorer classes were compelled to dye their hair black. The Greeks were noted for the cultivation of health by natural methods. They realized the value of exercise and massage for building a strong body. Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, advocated the use of sunlight, water and diet, as important aids to recovery from illness. The motto of the Greeks was "a sound mind in a sound body". Some of the finest bathing establishments were erected in Rome. Soap was first discovered and came into common usage there. Later, with the decay of Rome and the rise of Christianity, the use of soap and bathing was banned because these practices were associated with the cruelty and wick- edness of Roman rulers. HISTORY OF BARBERING RAZORS OF THE PAST FANCY RAZOR OF THE 1890'S HISTORY OF BARBERING 5 English Influence The ancient Britons were extremely proud of the length and beauty of their hair. Their yellow hair was brightened with washes composed of tallow, lime, and the ashes of certain vegetables. The Danes and Anglo-Saxons also ad- mired long, flowing locks. The young Danes were partic- ularly attentive to dressing the hair, which they combed at least once a day in order to captivate the affections of English ladies. The Rise and Fall of Barber-Surgeons During the Middle Ages, the barbers not only practiced shaving, haircutting and hairdressing, but also dressed wounds and performed surgical operations. That is why they were called barber-surgeons. Much of the barbers 5 experience was acquired from the monks, whom they as- sisted in the practice of surgery and medicine. The barber-surgeons became quite numerous when Pope Alexander III forbade the clergy to shed blood in surgical operations. To protect themselves, the Barbers' Company of London was organized in the thirteenth century. The object of the trade guild was to regulate the profession for the benefit of its members. Among the regulations passed was that no barber was to keep more than four apprentices in his establishment. The Company of Barbers was ruled by a Master, and consisted of two classes of barbers, viz: those who practiced barbering and those who specialized in surgery. Under Edward III, the barbers made a complaint against un- skilled practitioners in surgery. As a result, the court chose two Masters to inspect and rule the guild and give exami- nations to test the skill of applicants. The sign of the barber-surgeon consisted of a striped pole from which was suspended a basin: the fillet around the pole indicating the bandage twisted around the arms previous to blood-letting and the basin the vessel for receiving blood. An- other interpretation of the colors in the barber's pole was that B HISTORY OF BARBERING red represented the blood, blue the veins, and white the bandage. This sign, without the basin, has been generally re- tained by the modern barber. Besides the Barbers' Guild, there was also a Surgeons' Guild in England. There was reason to believe that com- petition and antagonism existed between these two organ- izations. In 1450, both groups were united by law for the purpose of fostering the science of surgery. A law was en- acted that no one doing surgery should practice barbering and that no barber should practice any point in surgery except the pulling of teeth. The long slumbering jealousy between the two guilds soon reached a climax. The surgeons harbored a dislike for a system under which the diplomas were signed by Governors, two of whom were always barbers. Finally, in 1745 a bill was passed separating the barbers from the surgeons. The barber-surgeons also flourished in France and Ger- many. In 1371, a corporation was organized for the French barber-surgeons under the rule of the King's barber. With the advent of the French revolution, the corporation was dissolved. Wigs became so elaborate in the nineteenth cen- tury that a separate corporation of barbers was formed in France. Not until 1779 was a corporation formed in Prussia. This was disbanded in 1809 when new unions were started. The Dutch and Swedish settlers in America brought with them barber-surgeons from their native countries to look after the well being of the colonists. They not only shaved but performed everyday medical and surgical procedures. Modern Trends By the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, barbering was completely separated from religion and medicine, and began to take on an independent position. Rapid strides have been marie in barbering since the invention of electricity, the development of better instruments for cutting and shaving the hair, and the discoveries in hygiene, chemistry and med- icine. With the exception of Virginia and certain counties in HISTORY OF BARBERING 7 Alabama, the remaining states have passed laws regulating the practice of barbering. The state boards are primarily in- terested in maintaining high standards of education and training in order to assure competent and intelligent service. The barber schools, barber unions, and Master Barbers As- sociation, have cooperated in the enforcement of state laws and in the protection of the barbers' rights and privileges. Important discoveries which have improved the practice of barbering in recent times are as follows: 1. The use of electricity and electrical appliances in the barber shop. 2. The use of better barber implements. 3. The practice of sterilization and sanitation in the barber shop. 4. The study of anatomy dealing with those parts of the body (face, head and neck) which are served by the barber. 5. The study of preparations used in connection with fa- cial, scalp and hair treatments. Historical Notes on Barbering The Journeymen Barbers 5 Union was organized 1887, and the first convention was held on November 5, 1887, at Buffalo, New York. The first barber school in the United States was started by A. B. Moler in Chicago, in 1893. The first state to pass a barber license law was Minnesota, in 1897. The Associated Master Barbers of America was organized in 1924, at Chicago, Illinois. HISTORY OF BARBERING HAIRCUTS AND BEARDS IN VOGUE AT THE ONSET OF THE 20th CENTURY HISTORY OF BARBERING HAIRCUTS AND BEARDS IN VOGUE DURING THE 19th CENTURY 10 REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS HISTORY OF BARBERING 1. What is the origin of the word "barber"? "Barba" is a Latin word meaning beard. They were signs of wisdom, strength and manhood. 2. Why did men wear beards in ancient times? 3. Name two ancient nations which practiced barbering. Ancient Egypt and China. 4. When did the Macedonians introduce the practice of shaving? 5. In what year did barbers be- come known in Rome? About 400 years B.C. (before the birth of Christ). About 296 B.C. 6. When did barbers popular in Greece? 7. Who were the barber-sur- geons? "8. a) Whe^id~thVblwbTivsur^ geons start their practice? b) When did the barber-sur- geons end their practice? ^TWhat~were the duties of lhe~ barber-surgeons? become About 500 B.C. Barbers who assisted the clergy in the practice of surgery and medicine. "About 110 A.D7~(after~the birthTof Christ). In the year 1745. Besides being a barber, they did blood- letting, performed operations, pulled teeth and dressed wounds. 10. Describe the barber's sign used by the barber-surgeons. The barber's sign consisted of a striped pole, from which was suspended a basin. The white band around the pole indicated the ribbon for band- aging the arm, the red band indicated the bleeding and the basin was in- tended to receive the blood. 11. What was the origin of the modern barber pole? The modern barber pole started in the days when the barber-surgeons bled their patients in treating disease. 12. What kind of organization was the Barbers' Company of London? A trade guild or society for the pro- tection of barber-surgeons. 13. When was the Barbers' Com- pany organized in London? 14. When was the first school for barber-surgeons opened in France? During the thirteenth century. In the middle of the thirteenth cen- tury. 15. Who brought the barber- surgeons to America? The early Dutch and Swedish settlers. ln what year did A ler open the first barber school in America? 17. In what year did the State of Minnesota pass the first barber license law? In 1893. In 1897. REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 11 18. What are three important advantages of having barber license laws? 1. Elevates the standards and practice of barbering. 2. Eliminates incompetent barbers who lack the required training and exper- ience. 3. Protects the public health and as- sures better service. 19. In what year were the Mas- ter Barbers of America or- ganized? 20. When was the Journeymen Barbers' International Union organized in America? 21. Which important discoveries improved the practice of bar- bering in recent years? In 1924. In 1887. 1. The use of electricity and electrical appliances in the barber shop. 2. The use of better barber implements. 3. The practice of sterilization and sanitation in the barber shop. 4. The study of anatomy dealing with those parts of the body (face, head and neck) which are serviced by the barber. 5. The study of preparations used in connection with facial, scalp and hair treatments. PART I HYGIENE, SANITATION AND STERILIZATION 15 PERSONAL HYGIENE Good health is a valuable asset to the barber. It permits him to function efficiently and render satisfactory service to his customers. Poor health is a serious handicap which in- terferes with the best work of the barber. A sick person, having a contagious disease, tends to spread it to others. Any bacterial disease which affects the body should be sufficient to disqualify the barber from doing his work. An annual physical examination will help to discover the pre- sence of any communicable disease. Personal hygiene concerns the intelligent care given by the individual to preserve health. This requires a know- ledge of good eating and drinking habits, and a wholesome mental attitude. A good balance between work, sleep and play, is fundamental to hygienic living. Public hygiene or sanitation refers to the measures used by governmental agencies to preserve the health of the com- munity. It is the responsibility of the barber to know san- itation and sterilization rules so that he may cooperate with the Board of Health and the State Board of Barbering in the maintenance of a high standard of public health. Mental Hygiene The mind and body operate as a unit; and the neglect of either must be to the detriment of both. Optimistic and encouraging thoughts promote good health. Healthy mental attitudes can be cultivated by self-control and practice. Make up your mind as to what is right and then continue to do it until a habit is established. In place of worry and fear, the health-giving qualities of cheerfulness, courage and hope, should be promoted. Outside interests and recreation tend to relieve the strain of monotony and hard work. Thoughts and emotions influence bodily activities. A thought may cause the face to turn red and increase the heart action. A thought may either stimulate or depress the functions of the body. Strong emotions such as worry and fear have an injurious reaction on the heart, arteries 16 PERSONAL HYGIENE and glands. Mental depression impairs the functions of these organs, thereby lowering the immunity of the body to disease. Cleanliness Cleanliness is an important factor in maintaining personal hygiene. It is essential to the preservation of health and the prevention of disease. A clean person is careful not only with his body but also with his clothing and surroundings. The barber must be dressed in a clean, washable outer coat or uniform. Shoes should be neat and comfortable. Clean personal habits reflect themselves in the physical condition of the barber shop. For the body to be truly clean, only pure food, water and air should be consumed, and the waste products should be regularly eliminated. Otherwise, self-poisoning will ensue. Since constipation is a hindrance to internal cleanliness, it should be remedied by a change in eating and living habits. The skin must be kept clean for hygienic as well as aes- thetic reasons and to keep the pores open to allow the impur- ities to be excreted. Bathing with soap and water assists in the removal of surface dirt. Body odor or foul breath is an indication of faulty per- sonal hygiene and diet. The use of deodorants helps to counteract a disagreeable body odor. To keep the teeth and mouth in a healthy condition, ad- equate mouth hygiene is required. Brush the teeth at least twice daily. Rinse the mouth with water after each meal. All decayed teeth should be either filled or removed. Adequate personal hygiene demands appropriate attention to the needs of the body. Six requirements are essential to good health: 1. Breathe clean air. 2. Eat wholesome food. 3. Drink pure water in sufficient quantity. 4. Keep the body clean, both internally and externally. 5. Be moderate in work, play, exercise and sleep. PERSONAL HYGIENE 17 6. Stand, sit and walk correctly and maintain good posture. Air The quality of air a person breathes is important to health. Whereas warm, dry air is depressing, cool air with the proper amount of moisture is stimulating to the func- tions of the body. Country air is purer than city air because plants remove carbon dioxide and give off oxygen in the presence of the sun. Excess moisture, especially in hot air, causes great discomfort and renders the body susceptible to colds upon exposure to a draft. On hot and humid days, the body cannot readily dispose of the accumulated perspira- tion. The air within a barber shop should be neither dry nor stagnant. Stagnant air has a stale, musty odor. Room tem- perature should be about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Dry air in a heated room can be overcome by placing a water pan on the radiator or by having plants in the barber shop. Opening of the windows, one at the top and another at the bottom, helps to secure good ventilation. The impure air containing the carbon dioxide leaves through the top of the window, whereas the fresh air enters through the bottom. Drafts must be avoided. Fresh air is refreshing, not so much because of less carbon dioxide and more oxygen, but because it is usually cooler and less laden with moisture. Food Since no one food is in itself adequate for the nourish- ment and growth of the body, it becomes necessary to properly select and combine various foods so as to yield a balanced diet. The individual's choice should be guided by the purity, wholesomeness and freshness of foods. Contam- inated water and food contain many harmful bacteria. Proper sanitation of water and food is supervised by govern- mental agencies. Individuals differ in their nutritive needs and in their ability to digest and assimilate foods. A strong, healthy person, living an outdoor and active life, can easily digest 18 PERSONAL HYGIENE TYPES OF STANDING POSTURE Excellent Mechanical Use of the Body 1. Head straight above chest, hips and feet. 2. Chest up and forward. 3. Abdomen in or flat. Poor Mechanical Use of the Body 1. Head forward of chest. 2. Chest flat. 3. Abdomen relaxed and forward. PERSONAL HYGIENE 19 any kind of food. On the other hand, a person who works with his mind more than with his hands requires simple and easily digested foods. For the continuance of sound health, certain hygienic eating and drinking rules must be observed. 1. Eat only when hungry and in the proper frame of mind. Worry and fatigue are not conducive to good di- gestion. 2. Drink several glasses of water daily. Do not gulp the food down with water. Iced water chills the stomach and decreases the rate of digestion in the stomach. Warm drinks promote the flow of the digestive juices. 3. All foods should be washed and cleaned before being cooked and eaten. The removal of dirt also carries with it harmful bacteria. Decomposed or spoiled food should not be eaten. 4. The food should be eaten slowly and thoroughly chewed with the saliva. Crisp and hard foods stimulate the flow of the saliva and also exercise the teeth and gums. The thorough chewing of foods prevents overeating. 5. Overeating, even of the best foods, is harmful to health. An excessive intake of food stretches the stomach and leads to intestinal decomposition. The absorption of decomposed intestinal residues overburdens the organs of elimination. Overeating makes the individual put on ex- cess weight. Posture Correct posture is of particular importance to the barber, who is required to stand on his feet for long periods of time. Faulty posture places a strain on the muscles, which in turn increases fatigue and lowers efficiency. To stand or walk correctly, the shoulders should be kept straight and backward while the abdomen is retained inward. Drooping shoulders limit the action of the lungs, which results in deficient aeration of the blood. Correct pos- ture gives balance to the body and evenly distributes body weight. 20 PERSONAL HYGIENE Exercise Exercise has a beneficial effect on the metabolic func- tions of the body. During exercise, the rate of breathing is increased, thereby supplying the blood with more oxygen with which to oxidize the food. The circulation of the blood and the nutrition of the cells are likewise improved. Mild exercise is preferred to any violent exercise which may be a strain on the heart. To get the best results from exercise it should be conducted in the open air, should bring a large number of muscles into play and should be pleasurable. Do not start any exercise when tired nor con- tinue it if fatigued. Strenuous exercise after a hearty meal impairs digestion. The best kinds of exercise are sports, walking, swimming, and dancing. Sleep Sleep is necessary in order to revitalize the body and to neutralize and eliminate the products of mental and physical fatigue. During waking hours, the end products of metab- olism accumulate faster than can be eliminated. Sound sleep permits the body to neutralize the waste products and discharge them from the system. During sleep, the body is recharged with energy. A clear mind and refreshed body are signs of adequate sleep. Good Health Habits 1. Eat three good meals a day. Include the necessary variety of wholesome foods such as milk, eggs, fruit, vegetables, meat or fish and cereals. 2. Have regular times for meals, sleep and elimination. 3. Get sufficient sleep every night to feel rested and alert the next day. 4. Use leisure time for rest and recreation. 5. Avoid unnecessary infection by washing hands before and after serving customers, and by treating cuts and scratches promptly. 6. Steer clear of excesses in food, alcohol, sex or tobacco. 7. Adopt a cheerful attitude towards life and conquer the temptation to worry when things go wrong. 8. Have periodic check-ups by your doctor and dentist. PERSONAL HYGIENE 21 YOUR PERSONAL HYGIENE IS VERY IMPORTANT To keep your appearance at its best, give daily attention to correct posture, cleanliness and neatness. Daily Bath and Deodorant Keep the body clean and fresh by having a daily shower or bath, and if necessary by using an underarm deodorant. Teeth and Breath Clean and brush the teeth reg- ularly. Use mouth wash to sweeten the breath. Face Shave the face daily. If worn, keep the mustache trimmed neatly. Hair Keep the hair clean, properly trimmed and dressed. Hands and Nails Keep the hands clean and smooth, and have the nails man- icured. Clothes Wear clean pants and uniform that is properly fitted and pressed. Keep barber imple- ments out of pockets. Wear shoes that are well-fitted and shined. A Weil-Groomed Barber 22 PERSONAL HYGIENE YOUR PERSONALITY CHART No barber can hope to have or maintain a successful career in barbering unless he develops a pleasing personality. Personality is your greatest asset in life. It can be cul- tivated by giving careful attention to details in grooming and the forming of good habits and desirable traits. Try to make this personality chart a true picture of your- self. Consult your teacher, friend or doctor, to find out what can be done to improve your personality. Check yourself every three months to find out what progress you are making. PERSONAL INVENTORY To determine to what extent you posses each of the traits or qualities listed, place a check in the proper box. Rnrlvr r^lAOYiKn^oc Excellent Good Fair Poor body Cleanliness 100 o /o 750/o 50 o /0 2 5% Hands and Nails: Hands clean and free from nicotine stains D D D D Nails cleaned and properly trimmed .... D D D D Face: Face properly shaved D D D D Mustache properly trimmed D D D D Nostrils and ears clean and free from protruding hairs D D D D Hair: Hair clean and properly trimmed D D D D Hair properly groomed D D D D Offensive Odor: Body odor D D D D Breath odor D D D D Clothing Cleanliness Uniform : Uniform clean and pressed. (Pockets free of implements.) D D D D PERSONAL HYGIENE 23 Pants : Pants clean and pressed D D D D Shoes and Socks: Shoes shined D D D D Socks clean .-. D D D D Clothing Habits: Uniform and working apparel neat, well fitted and properly worn D D D D Personal Habits Sanitary Habits: Handkerchief clean and pressed D D D D Manner of blowing and wiping nose. ~ D D D D Posture Habits: Erect standing posture D D D D Proper walking posture without shuffling the feet D D D D Speech Habits: Tone of voice D D D D Ease in talking D D D D RATING YOUR PERSONALITY Add percentages for each trait or quality and get totals for each column. Add combined totals to get grand total. Di- vide grand total by 20 to get average percentage for all. To evaluate your personality, compare the final rating with the following standards: Excellent Personality 85-100% Good Personality 75 - 85% Fair Personality 50- 75% Poor Personality 40- 50% PERSONALITY IMPROVEMENT After finishing this personal inventory, take stock of your good and bad traits. Make a list of those traits in need of correction or improvement. Select the most glaring fault first. 24 PERSONAL HYGIENE Each day make a conscious effort to do the right thing. Do not give up until you have formed the desirable habit. When one good habit has been formed, then follow the same pro- cedure for the correction of another personal trait. Every three months check -your personal inventory to note what progress has been made towards your personality im- provement. RECORD OF PERSONALITY IMPROVEMENT Now After 3 Months After 6 Months After 9 Months After 1 Year RATING ^ PERSONAL HYGIENE 1. Why is the practice of per- sonal hygiene important to the barber? In order to keep the body clean, healthy and free from disease. 2. What is hygiene? The science which treats of the pre- vention of disease and the improve- ment of health. 3. Name two important branch- es of hygiene. How is each applied? Personal hygiene and public hygiene. Personal hygiene is applied to the in- dividual. Public hygiene or sanitation is applied to the community. 4. Name six requirements of good health. 1. Breathe clean air. 2. Eat wholesome food. 3. Drink pure water in sufficient quan- tity. 4. Keep the body clean, both extern- nally and internally. 5. Be moderate in work, play, rest and sleep. 6. Stand, sit and walk correctly. 5. How should the barber be dressed? 6. What are three signs of correct standing posture? Wear a clean, washable outer coat or uniform. Keep head up, chest up and forward, abdomen flat. 7. How can body odors and foul breath be eliminated? Bathe daily and if necessary use a deodorant under the armpits. Gargle the jnouth with an antiseptic solution. 8. What hygienic care should be given to the teeth? Brush and clean them each day. Visit the dentist to fill or remove bad teeth. 9. Why are regular physical ex- aminations necessary? To check the condition of the body and treat any disease that is dis- covered. 25 BACTERIOLOGY Bacteriology is that science which deals with the study of micro-organisms called bacteria. In order for the barber to understand the importance of sterilization, it is necessary that he first make a study of bacteria. While it is true that the barber is not concerned with the treatment of disease, he must understand how the spread of disease can be prevented, and become familiar with the precautions which must be taken to protect his own, as well as his customer's health. Contagious diseases, skin in- fections and blood poisoning are caused either by the con- veyance of infectious material from one individual to an- other, or by using contaminated implements ( such as combs, brushes, razors, etc. ) on an individual without being ster- ilized. Bacteria are minute one-celled vegetable micro-organ- .s. They are especially numerous in dust, dirt, refuse and ;ased tissues. Ordinarily, bacteria are not visible except wjth the aid of a microscope. Fifteen hundred rod-shaped bacteria will barely reach across a pinhead. It is only when thousands of them have grown in one spot to form a "col- ony" that they become visible as a mass. Harmful bacteria are also known as germs, or microbes. Bacteria are classified as to their harmful or beneficial qualities. It must be borne in mind that not all bacteria are harmful; in fact, a great majority are helpful and useful. There are two types of bacteria. 1. Non-pathogenic organisms constitute the majority of all bacteria and perform many useful functions such as de- composing refuse and improving the fertility of the soil. To this group belong the saprophytes which live on dead matter. 2. Pathogenic organisms (microbes or germs), although in the minority, produce considerable damage by invading plant or animal tissues. Pathogenic bacteria are harmful be- cause they produce disease. To this group belong the para- 26 BACTERIOLOGY sites which require living material for their growth. It is due to the pathogenic bacteria that the practice of sterilization and sanitation is necessary in a barber shop. Structural Classification of Bacteria There are many hundreds of different kinds of bacteria which may be classified according to their shape or form. Each bacterium has a specific structure and definite char- acteristics. They are arranged into three main classes as follows : 1. Cocci (singular, coccus) are round-shaped organisms which appear singly or in groups as follows: a) Staphylococci (singular, staphylococcus) are pus- forming organisms which grow in bunches or clust- ers, and are present in abscesses, pustules and boils. b) Streptococci (singular, streptococcus) are pus- forming organisms which grow in chains, and are found in such diseases as erysipelas and blood poisoning. c) Gonococci (singular, gonococcus) grow in pairs and are responsible for gonorrhea (clap). d) Diplococci (singular, diplococcus) grow in pairs, and cause pneumonia. 2. Bacilli (singular, bacillus) are rod-shaped organisms which present either a short, thin or thick structure. They are the most common and produce such diseases as tetanus (lockjaw), influenza, typhoid, tuberculosis and diphtheria. Many bacilli are spore producers. 3. Spirilla (singular, spirillum) are curved or corkscrew- shaped organisms. They are further subdivided into several groups, of chief importance being the spiro- chaetal organisms. The spirochaeta or Treponema pallida is the causative agent in syphilis. Movement of Bacteria The ability to move about is limited to the bacilli and spirilla, for the cocci rarely show active motility. Wherever any motility of bacteria is shown, we find hair-like projec- BACTERIOLOGY 27 THREE GENERAL FORMS OF BACTERIA Cocci Bacilli Spirilla GROUPINGS OF BACTERIA OD CD Diplococci Tetracocci Streptococci Staphylococci SIX DISEASE-PRODUCING BACTERIA (PATHOGENIC BACTERIA) Typhoid Bacillus Tubercle Bacillus showing Flagella (Tuberculosis) Streptococcus Diphtheria Bacillus Cholera (Microspira) Tetanus Bacillus with spores 28 BACTERIOLOGY tions, known as flagella or cilia, extending from the sides, end or sides and end, of certain bacteria. By moving these fine hairs with a whip-like motion, these bacteria propel them- selves about through a liquid. Bacterial Growth and Reproduction Bacteria consist of an outer cell wall and internal proto- plasm. They manufacture their own food from the surround- ing environment, give off waste products and are capable of growth and reproduction. Bacteria may exhibit two distinct phases in their life cycle. 1. The active or vegetative stage in which the bacterial cell grows and reproduces. 2. The inactive or spore stage in which the bacterial cell remains dormant and does not grow or reproduce itself. Germs live and multiply best in warm, dark, damp and dirty places where sufficient food is present. Many parts of the human body offer a suitable breeding place for bacteria. When conditions are favorable, bacteria reproduce with marvelous rapidity. As food is absorbed and converted into protoplasm, the bacterial cells increase in size. When the limit of growth is reached, it divides crosswise into halves, thereby forming two daughter cells. From one bacterium, as much as sixteen million germs may develop in half a day. Spore-forming bacteria. When favorable conditions cease to exist, bacteria either die or cease to multiply. To with- stand periods of famine, dryness and unsuitable temperature, certain bacteria such as the anthrax and tetanus bacilli can form spherical spores having a tough outer covering. In this stage, the spore can be blown about in the dust and is not harmed by disinfectants, heat or cold. When favorable conditions are restored, the spore changes into the active or vegetative form and then starts to grow and reproduce. BACTERIOLOGY 29 Infections Pathogenic bacteria become a menace to health when they successfully invade the body. An infection occurs if the body is unable to cope with the bacteria or their harm- ful poisons. At first, the infection may be localized as in a boil. A general infection results when the blood stream car- ries the bacteria and their poisons to all parts of the body. The presence of pus is a sign of infection. Found in pus are bacteria, body cells and blood cells, both living and dead. An infectious disease becomes contagious because it tends to spread more or less readily from one person to an- other by direct or indirect contact. The most common con- tagious diseases met in the barber shop are ringworm, favus, scabies, and head lice. In addition to these contagious diseases, a barber is not allowed to work in a shop if he has either diphtheria, influ- enza, typhoid fever, tuberculosis, gonorrhea or syphilis. Se- vere coughs and colds also prevent the barber from working in the shop, as they are contagious and may be spread to customers. The chief sources of contagion are: unclean hands, un- clean instruments, open sores and pus, and mouth and nose discharges. Uncovered coughing and sneezing in public also spreads germs. Through personal hygiene and public sani- tation, infections can be prevented and controlled. The body attempts to fight infections by using its de- fensive forces. The first line of defense is the unbroken skin. In a healthy person, bodily secretions such as perspi- ration and digestive juices discourage bacterial growth. Within the blood, there are white blood cells to destroy harm- ful bacteria, and anti-toxins to counteract the poisons pro- duced by the bacteria. Bacteria enter the body through the following routes: 1. Through the mouth (with food, water and air). 2. Through the nose (with air). 3. Through the eyes (on dirt). 4. Through cracks or wounds in the skin. 30 REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Immunity is the ability of the body to resist invasion and destroy bacteria once they have gained entrance. Immunity against disease is a sign of good health. It may be natural or acquired. Natural immunity is partly inherited and partly developed by hygienic living. Acquired immunity, being ar- tificial, is secured after the body has by itself overcome certain diseases, or when it has been assisted by animal injections to fight bacterial attacks. A person may be immune to a disease and yet carry germs which can infect other people. Such a person is called a human disease carrier. The diseases most frequently spread in this manner are typhoid fever and diphtheria. The destruction of bacteria may be accomplished by physical agents such as heat (boiling, steaming or baking) ; and chemical agents such as antiseptics, disinfectants or germicides. BACTERIOLOGY 1. What is bacteriology? The science or study of bacteria. 2. What are bacteria? Bacteria are minute one-celled veg- etable organisms. 3. Where are bacteria generally In the air, water, dust, dirt, and in found? diseased and decayed tissues. 4. Classify and describe bac- 1. Cocci (sing., coccus) are round- teria according to their shape. shaped and appear in groups, pairs or clusters. 2. Bacilli (sing., bacillus) are rod- shaped and have a short, thin or thick appearance. 3. Spirilla (sing., spirillum) are cork- screw-shaped, having from one to eight curves. 5. Name and distinguish be- Pathogenic bacteria are harmful and tween two types of bacteria. produce disease. Non-pathogenic bac- teria are beneficial and do not produce disease. 6. By what other names are Germs and microbes. pathogenic bacteria general- ly known? 7. Name two common pus-form- Staphylococcus and streptococcus. ing bacteria. 8. Which substances are usual- Bacteria, body cells, blood cells, both ly found in pus? living and dead. 9. Which kind of bacteria caus- Staphylococcus. es boils and pimples? REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 31 10. Which, kind of bacteria caus- es blood poisoning? Streptococcus. 11. Which kind of bacteria caus- es gonorrhea (clap)? 12TName four requirements for the growth of bacteria. Gonococcus. Warm, dark, damp and dirty places where sufficient food is present. 13. How do bacteria multiply? Each bacterium lengthens and divides in the middle, thus forming two bac- teria. 14. How fast do bacteria gener- ally multiply? From one bacterium, as many as six- teen million germs may develop hi half a day. 15. What causes an infection? The invasion of harmful bacteria into a weakened body. 16. Distinguish between a local infection and a general in- fection. A local infection such as a boil is con- fined to a small part of the body. A general infection such as blood poison- ing results when bacteria or their poi- sons enter the blood stream. 17. Through which four routes do bacteria enter the body? 1. The mouth (with air, water, or food). 2. The nose (with air). 3. The eyes (on dirt). 4. The skin (through cracks or wounds in the skin). 18. Which blood cells destroy bacteria hi the body? White blood cells. 19. How can infection be pre- vented in the barber shop? 20. What is immunity?" By the practice .of personal hygiene, sterilization and sanitation at all times. The ability of the body to fight and overcome certain diseases caused by germs and their poisons. 21. What is a human disease car- rier? Give two examples. A human disease carrier is a person who, although immune to the disease himself, can infect other persons with the germs of the disease. Two exam- ples are diphtheria and typhoid fever. 22. What is a communicable or contagious disease? A disease which can be readily spread from one person to another by direct or indirect contact. 23. Name ten communicable di- seases that prevent a barber from working. diphtheria influenza typhoid fever tuberculosis syphilis gonorrhea ringworm favus scabies head lice 24. Why should severe colds or coughs prevent a barber from working? Because the germs of coughs due to colds are easily spread. 33 STERILIZATION Sterilization is of practical importance to the barber be- cause it deals with methods employed to check or destroy all kinds of micro-organisms, particularly those which are responsible for infections and communicable diseases. The barber should know the local regulations of the Health Department and Board of Barbering regarding ac- ceptable methods of sterilization. Sterilization is the process of making an object germ- free by the destruction of all micro-organisms, whether bene- ficial or harmful. - Methods of Sterilization There are four methods of sterilization with which the barber should be familiar. These may be grouped under two main headings: 1. Physical agents: a) Moist heat (boiling or steaming.) b) Dry heat (baking in an oven). 2. Chemical agents: a) Antiseptics and disinfectants. b) Vapors (fumigation) to keep articles sterile. The choice of the sterilizing agent will depend to a very large extent on its effectiveness and cost and the available facilities in the barber shop. Forms of Heat Moist heat. An effective and relatively inexpensive method of sterilizing implements in a barber shop is boiling or steam- ing. The temperature and duration of heat are important considerations. The time is counted not from the moment the flame is lighted or the switch turned on, but from the time the particular temperature or pressure has been reached. To avoid cracking fragile objects and burning fingers, im- plements must never be placed in or removed from heated sterilizers with the hands; use forceps to insert and remove objects from the receptacles. 34 STERILIZATION Instruments and glassware for immediate use are readily sterilized by boiling or steaming as follows : 1. Boiling. Boiling water at 212 Fahrenheit (100 cen- tigrade) is germicidal in action, and will completely destroy all bacteria except spores. Instruments, glassware, towels, or headbands, should be placed in boiling water and allowed to remain for at least twenty minutes.* Adding a small quantity of sodium carbonate (washing soda) to the water will keep the instruments bright. 2. Steaming. Exposure to direct steam is probably one of the most effective methods of sterilization. Steam at ordi- nary atmospheric pressure never exceeds a temperature of 212 Fahrenheit (100 Centigrade), but if it is confined within a given area, the temperature will rise with increased pressure. The average steam pressure sterilizer is an air-tight chamber in which steam is generated from water by the ap- plication of heat. All forms of micro-organisms, including spore-forming bacteria are completely destroyed at 15 Ibs. pressure (equivalent to a temperature of 250 Fahrenheit (121 Centigrade) for 20 minutes.* Dry heat. This method of sterilization is not practical in the barber shop and is therefore rarely used. However, it is employed by hospitals to sterilize sheets, towels, gauze, cotton and similar materials. Light. Bacteria cannot tolerate the effect of direct sun- light for more than a few hours. Almost all bacteria may be killed or weakened by ultra-violet irradiation. Antiseptics and Disinfectants Next to heat, chemical agents are most effective in des- troying or checking bacteria. The chemical agents used for sterilizing purposes are either antiseptics or disinfectants (germicides). A distinction is usually made between an anti- septic and disinfectant. *The boiling or steaming time of water should conform to State Board regulations issued by your state. STERILIZATION 35 1 . An antiseptic* is a substance which may kill, or retard the growth of bacteria without killing them. Antiseptics can be used with safety on the skin. 2. A disinfectant destroys bacteria and is used for the sterilization of instruments. A chemical such as formalin can be classed under both heads: a strong solution of it acting as a disinfectant; a weak solution acting only as an antiseptic. Wet Sterilizer A wet sterilizer is any receptacle large enough to hold the disinfectant solution and completely immerse the objects to be sterilized. A cover is provided to prevent contamination of the solution. Various sizes and shapes of wet sterilizers can be purchased from the barber supply dealer. Before immersing objects in a wet sterilizer containing a disinfectant solution, they should be thoroughly cleansed with soap and water. This procedure prevents contamination of the solution. Besides, soap suds actually kill ordinary germs except the typhoid bacilli and staphylococci. The kind and strength of chemical solution to use de- pends on the objects to be sterilized. The implements are usually immersed for a period ranging from 10 to 20 minutes. After the barber implements arq removed from the dis- infectant solution, they should be rinsed in clean water, wiped dry with a clean towel and stored in a dry sterilizer until ready to be used. Combs and brushes will be completely sterilized by im- mersion into a 10% formalin solution for 20 minutes. Metallic instruments will be completely sterilized and will not corrode if they are immersed for 10 minutes in a 25% formalin solution to which glycerine has been added. *The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic law interprets the meaning of an antiseptic as follows: If an antiseptic is intended for short contact on body surfaces, it should possess the effectiveness of a disinfectant and be able to kill germs. For prolonged contact as in the case of an antiseptic dusting powder y the product may exert an inhibiting effect on bacteria. 36 STERILIZATION Using Alcohol As A Sterilizing Agent Instruments having a fine cutting edge, such as razors, shears and clipper blades, may be sterilized either by immer- sion into 70% alcohol or by rubbing the surface with a cot- ton pad dampened in 70% alcohol which prevents the cut- ting edges from becoming dull. Electrodes may be safely sterilized by gently rubbing the exposed surface with a cotton pad dampened in 70% alcohol. Floors, Sinks, Toilet Bowls and Cuspidors The disinfection of floors, sinks, toilet bowls and cuspidors in the barber shop calls for the use of such commercial prod- ucts as lysol, CN, pine needle oil or similar disinfectants. De- odorants are also useful to combat offensive odors and for im- parting a refreshing odor. Whatever disinfectant is being used, make sure that it is properly diluted as suggested by the manufacturer. Dry Sterilizer Dry sterilizer is an air-tight cabinet containing an active f umigant ( formaldehyde gas ) . The sterilized implements are kept sterile by placing them in the cabinet until ready for use. How fumigant is prepared. Place one tablespoonful of bor- ax and one tablespoonful of formalin on a small tray or blot- ter on the bottom of the cabi- net. This will form formalde- hyde vapors. Replace chemicals periodically to insure effective- ness of the fumigant. Formalin Dry Sterilizer Formalin is a safe and effective sterilizing agent which can be used either as an antiseptic, disinfectant or deodorant, depending on its percentage strength. As purchased, formalin is approximately 37% to 40% of formaldehyde gas in water. STERILIZATION 37 When properly diluted with water, formalin serves many useful purposes in the barber shop. Formalin is used in various strengths, as follows: 25% solution (equivalent to 10% formaldehyde) used to. sterilize instruments, by allowing them to remain in the solution for at least ten minutes. (Preparation: 2 parts for- malin, 5 parts water, 1 part glycerine). 10% solution (equivalent to 4% formaldehyde) used to sterilize articles such as combs and brushes, by allowing them to remain in the solution for at least twenty minutes. (Preparation: 1 part formalin, 9 parts water). 5% solution (equivalent to 2% formaldehyde) used to cleanse the hands in extreme measures, i.e., when they have been in contact with wounds or skin eruptions. It is also used for the sterilization of shampoo boards and chairs. (Preparation: 1 part formalin, 19 parts water). 2 J/2% solution (equivalent to 1% formaldehyde) used as a deodorant for sponging the armpits. ( Preparation : 1 part formalin, 39 parts water). PROPORTIONS FOR MAKING PERCENTAGE SOLUTIONS 100% Active Liquid Concentrate Strength 5 drops of liquid to 1 oz. water or 1 teaspoonful of liquid to 12 oz. water \% 10 drops of liquid to 1 oz. water or 2 teaspoonfuls of liquid to 12 oz. water 2% 4 teaspoonfuls of liquid to 12 oz. water 4% 5 teaspoonfuls of liquid to 12 oz. water 5% 10 teaspoonfuls of liquid to 12 oz. water 10% TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS 60 Drops 1 teaspoonful 8 Teaspoonfuls 1 oz. Ordinary Measured Glass 8 oz. One Pint 16 oz. One Quart 32 oz. Half Gallon . 64 oz. 38 STERILIZATION HOW TO CLEAN AND STERILIZE COMBS AND BRUSHES 1 . Arrange necessary supplies. a) Prepare bowl of warm, soapy water to which is added a little ammonia (proportion of 1 table- spoonful to 2 quarts of water). b) Prepare bowl of warm water for rinsing purposes. c) Prepare sufficient quantity of 10% formalin solu- tion or other approved disinfectant and place it into wet sterilizer. d) Prepare dry sterilizer. Mix 1 tablespoonful of bo- rax with 1 tablespoonful of formalin in a small tray, and place into dry sterilizer. e) Have ready a supply of clean towels and individ- ual envelopes. 2. Clean combs and brushes. a ) Remove hair from combs and brushes. b) Immerse combs and brushes (with bristles down) into bowl of soapy water for several minutes. c ) Glean each comb separately with a small brush, d)- Clean the brushes two at a time by rubbing the bristles against each other. e) When thoroughly cleansed, rinse combs and brush- es in bowl of clear, warm water. f ) Drain off water and remove any adhering hairs. 3. Sterilize combs and brushes. a) Immerse combs and brushes into formalin solution for 20 minutes. b) Remove combs and brushes, rinse in clean water, and dry them thoroughly with a clean towel. c) Rest comb and brushes (with bristles down) on a clean towel in an airy, dust-free place, and allow them to dry thoroughly. 4. Store combs and brushes- a) When completely dry, place combs and brushes into dry sterilizer, or wrap in sealed individual en- velopes, until ready for use. STERILIZATION 39 HOW TO CLEAN AND STERILIZE METALLIC IMPLEMENTS (Razors, Shears, Tweezers and Comedone Extractors) 1. Arrange necessary supplies. a ) Prepare a bowl of warm soapy water. b) Prepare disinfectant in wet sterilizer (25% forma- lin) to which a small amount of glycerine has been added, or use any other type of disinfectant ap- proved by the State Board. c) If necessary, replace chemicals in dry sterilizer. d) Have ready a supply of clean towels and individ- ual envelopes. 2. Clean metallic implements. a) Clean implements with warm soapy water. b) Dry them thoroughly in a clean towel. 3. Sterilize metallic implements. a) Immerse implements in disinfectant solution for 10 minutes, or follow your State Board requirements. Caution: In sterilizing razors or shears, it is advis- able that only the blades be dipped into the solu- tion, the handles should remain suspended in spe- cially constructed sterilizers. b) Remove implements, rinse them in clean water and dry thoroughly. 4. Store metallic implements. a ) Place sterilized implements in dry sterilizer or wrap them in individual envelopes until ready for use. Moist Heat Sterilization Moist heat (either boiling water or steam under pressure) can be used to sterilize barber implements, glassware, towels and linens. Objects that are readily destroyed by heat can- not be sterilized by this method. The following procedure is recommended : 1. Cleanse the sterilizing kettle with soap and warm water. 40 STERILIZATION 2. Cleanse the implements and articles with warm water and soap. 3. Fill sterilizing kettle with sufficient water for articles to be sterilized. Add some sodium carbonate to the water in order to prevent the rusting of metallic implements. 4. Turn on the heat and bring the water to a boil. 5. Grasp articles with a forceps and immerse them into boiling water for the required time. 6. Allow water to cool, remove articles with forceps and dry them in clean towels. 7. Place sterilized articles into dry sterilizer until ready for use. To use steam sterilization in the barber shop requires special apparatus. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the particular steamer being used. HOW TO CLEAN AND STERILIZE ELECTRODES 1. Clean electrodes. a) Clean surface of electrodes with warm, soapy water. Caution should be taken so that wires and metal attached to the electrodes do not come in contact with the water, as they may corrode or cause a short circuit. b) Dry thoroughly. 2. Sterilize electrodes. a) Dip a piece of cotton pad into 70% grain alcohol, or other approved disinfectant, and rub over the surface of the electrodes. b) Re-apply disinfectant. c) Dry electrodes thoroughly. 3. Store electrodes. a) Place electrodes in dry sterilizer or wrap in indi- * yidual envelopes until ready for use. STERILIZATION 41 wi.S II 3 d u/ ^ 6'W w - A QJ 'rt a b a 11 1 m 4 5 II wo .2 1 Si 6(2 .8 O W I! = 42 STERILIZATION a o *-> - < L ci I g g w DISADVAN Poison; pun Hardens sk CO Expensive. Hardens ski Unstable. Bleaches. Unstable. Bleaches. Poison; pun, Corrosive Poison; puni Corrosive. r$ 1 a o > i CO f Cheap Effective. a Safe. Effective. Safe. Effective. Cheap Powerful. Cheap. Powerful. Cheap. Effective Cheap. Powerful. 1 f -S3 J2 8