‘alta ds of anttinn »-tie bee Lian ed Yeas}! ts ate ‘ ay fy f ¢ sy sh aay. - AOA § iy) BANE, .) Y eA se) WYO Ae! Lana ep CRO eS ty) ew A ae Wes ee ag te ay ots oN On avau a ots5 $03 g ewe aN en PERS Reeser Sry ay oer CA ekS, vr a Are 04 Maly ta! ie 218357 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: praie Poultry Pointers PUBLISHED BY Pratt Food Company MANUFACTURERS OF THE Famous Pratts Animal and Poultry Regulators and Veterinary Remedies CoPpyYRIGHT 1911 BY PRATT Foop COMPANY PHILADELPHIA, PA., U. S. A. TORONTO, CANADA CHICAGO, ILL. LONDON, ENGLAND SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. DUNEDIN, NEW ZEALAND oO \. & UY y" X Valk -_ ‘ ~ ih \ od VN | oy ——_a Join Pratts Correspondence School of Poultry-Keeping ONLY $2.co FOR A COURSE WORTH $35.00 The best organized School of its kind in the world. Our lec- tures are complete, concise and easily understood. No dry, unin- teresting information, but thorough, practical and snappy instruc- tion, which goes right to the point in a few words. Just Think of this Offer ! We mail a full, complete lecture every week for three months prepared by the highest and most learned authorities on poultry, and written in an interesting way. No college education is necessary to grasp the meaning, which is the case in so many schools of this kind. We offer this Correspondence Course to the users of our Regulators and Veterinary Remedies for the nominal charge of $2.00 for Full Course and a coupon, which we place in every package of our goods. This low price does not pay us for preparing the lectures. For full information write Pratt Food Co., Philadelphia, Pa., or Toronto, Canada, —- PART I POULTRY KEEPING CHAPTER I. GENERAL HINTS. OUR OBJECT Having had years of experience with poultry, we find that we can help poultry people to profit and save many of the cares due to either inattention or lack of knowledge on the subject, and while yielding due praise to the authors of poultry books generally, and not desir- ing to criticise their excellent work, we hope to be par- doned one remark: we find by experience that what is greatly needed among: those who keep or intend to keep poultry, is a plain, practical book of ready reference, where the information wanted can be found at once, without wading through page after page of unnecessary matter. It is our purpose, therefore, to do our part in ministering to the wants of poultry keepers by placing 6 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. in their hands a working manual of practical information, the use of which will add to the ease and profit of their occupation. WHY KEEP POULTRY In the days of our forefathers, the Shanghae, or Cochin China fowl was the acknowledged fancy breed, but today we have breeds of all description and charac- ter. Some fabulous prices have been paid in the United States for choice specimens of different breeds. Some of the great figures paid are the sales of Rose Comb Black Minorcas by George H. Northup, of Raceville, New York, he getting $1,000 for one cock; $500 for another; and $200 for a third. He also realized $200 for a single hen, and sold fifteen other hens at $100 each. This makes a total of $3,400 for nineteen fowls. Then we have Kellerstrass, the famous “Peggy” man. Peggy is a White Orpington, upon which Keller- strass has placed a value of $10,000. This, because he has posted that amount for another hen of the same breed that will equal her in points. Kellerstrass sold Madame Paderewski a pen of five White Orpingtons for $7,500, an average of $1,500 per fowl. More big sales could be named, but the above in- PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 7 stances are probably the highest figures ever paid in this or any foreign country. But cases of exorbitant prices are exceptions, and breeding stock is as a rule sold at prices ranging from $2.00 to $50.00 per head. Poultry breeding has now settled upon a sound basis, and is becoming more popu- lar and profitable every year. Why you should keep poultry is shown by the millions of dozens of eggs that are imported yearly and the high prices obtained for the eggs. There is no reason why we should not produce eggs sufficient for our own use, and thus save the immense sums we send away to other countries. Hun- dreds of farmers, who have ample means to provide for a large flock of poultry, would be surprised to find how large a profit could, with a little care, be realized from keeping them. Of course the farmer will understand that it will cost him some time and trouble as well, for he must study the laws of nature with reference to fowls and their wants; but we say confidently that with the same amount of attention, poultry will actually pay him a larger profit than any other feature on his farm. But it is not the farmer only: there are thousands of others, living in locations where they have a little extra space, who could start with a dozen, or even half a dozen fowls, and would soon find the diversion not only interesting 8 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. but profitable. Every housekeeper knows the difference between fresh eggs and stale ones, so far as the pleasure of eating them goes; but perhaps she does not know that fresh eggs are far more nutritious than stale ones. This appears in hatching, as chicks from fresh eggs are much stronger and hardier than those from stale ones. Sick folks must have fresh eggs or none. How important then becomes the keeping of poultry, which requires only common sense and good care to be made a perfect success. Location of houses, choice of ground, condition of food and drinking water, are of course all important, and will be referred to in due course. aw MD, pace nrrnanseyaNagnmnningg=omeriaoumnneas ete eae oT N SPACK AND OUTLAY A small but complete poultry house can be built in a space eight feet by twelve, and will allow ample room for run of half a dozen fowls. ‘We mention this merely to show that a little family of fowls could be easily and conveniently accommodated by many who now allow the PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 9 necessary space to go to waste, and who buy eggs of uncertain condition and chickens of doubtful age, instead of supplying their tables with fresh eggs and tender poultry from their own yards. The outlay for the hous- ing of a few fowls is almost nothing—merely a small amount of timber, and time enough to put it together. We need not dwell on the advantages possessed by a farmer in regard to the keeping of poultry—for no one knows better than the farmer himself what an opportu- nity it gives him to utilize material and space that would otherwise be actually thrown away. It requires little thought, and less calculation, for him to realize that at a trifling expense he can start a safe venture, which will bring him in many a welcome dollar, and pay for itself many times over. We should advise a beginner to start with a few fowls, and add to them as he becomes more experienced. The expenditure of time and the exercise of patience demanded by any new enterprise will, of course, be required. LOCATION The first consideration should be location. Select or prepare a dry surface, not clay, and build the house with its floor a foot or more from the ground, to allow 10 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. plenty of free air space underneath. The situation should be light, airy and cheerful, avoiding doors, win- dows or openings of any sort to the north, northeast or northwest. This is a most important feature. Winds from the directions named chill the fowls, and their nourishment is used up in keeping them warm, especially in the time of cold storms. A southern exposure is, of course, the best one. If practicable, let the northerly walls be of brick; but in any case, let them be wind-proof. If openings are made in the back or side walls, for venti- lation during the hot weather, they should be so con- structed as to close tightly, to keep out drafts when shut. On the farm, a location near the cowhouse or stable, or against the fireplace of the dwelling, is the best, other things being equal, on account of the warmth thus gained. In building the house there is much to be con- sidered in the way of practical common sense. Nothing complicated or scientific is required; simply a healthy location, that should be dry and well protected from drafts in cold weather. Proper ventilation and cleanli- ness are also essential to the welfare of the fowls. There- fore the most elaborate houses are not always the most successful. Improper housing is the most frequent cause of disease and of unprofitable poultry keeping. In a cold, damp atmosphere the fowls will neither thrive nor PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 11 lay. The results of care in constructing the house are seen in fall and winter. If the house is drafty, the fowls will use up the food they have eaten to keep themselves warm through the cold nights—a thing which a well-built house will prevent. We have found that from fifteen to twenty-five birds are all that will thrive in one house; so that where more are kept, they should have separate houses and runs. Thick roosts, low down, should always be adopted, as the thin roost, high up, wears out the strength of the fowl before morning in endeavoring to keep its balance. This too, uses up the food supply, which is exhausted in the effort of the bird to make itself comfortable, instead of acting as an egg-producer. If the house is built double (see cut, page 22 ), this will allow of two runs, so that the fowls can be penned in one run at a time, and then reversed to the other, thus allowing one side at a time to be purified. While one side is in use, the other can be sown with oats, and the change made when the oats are four or five inches high, making a fine scratching-ground for the birds. A fre- quent stirring up of the soil, so as to let the sun penetrate it thoroughly, will have more influence on the health of the fowls than might be supposed. The fouling of the run is one of the most frequently neglected features of 12 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. the poultry yard. When the house cannot be conven- iently built in the manner suggested, the yard should be often and generously strewn with gravel. This will make it easy to clear off and cart away the top soil, and again spread with gravel; whereas, if the birds are simply allowed to run on the hard earth, it soon becomes foul and unwholesome. Sheds for dust baths, and for protection from the direct rays of the sun, as well as from rain and cold winds, should be so constructed in convenient places, and the fowls should, during the day, if space allows, be entirely shut out from the house in which they roost at night. In the construction of sheds, all sides but the southerly should be enclosed, for reasons which are plain to everyone. In constructing the scratching-shed poultry house, where there is a continuation of two houses, the scratch- ing sheds should be on the outside of each pen instead of in the center, as shown in illustration on pages twenty- two and thirteen, for the reason that these sheds being on either the east or west side protect the roosting pens, thus rendering the latter more warm. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 138 | tees fata CHAPTER IL THE HOUSE. HOW TO BUILD Generally speaking, poultry houses are built of wood, and if they are double walled on the back and sides, and heavy lining paper placed between the walls, they will be warm enough for any climate. A few houses are built of brick, but there is no spectal benefit derived by using that material unless the interior is lathed and plastered, making in all an expensive building. Some attention now is given to cement construction, which no doubt can be built for about the price of lumber. The point, however, is to avoid dampness. The house should be built of such proportions as te comfortably quarter the desired number of birds. Having it larger than necessary is nearly as bad as hav- ing it too small. For fifteen to twenty-five head of stock the pens should measure about ten by sixteen feet. This would allow ten by ten feet for the scratching shed, and six by ten feet for the roosting pen. The founda- 14 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS tion all around the building should be brick or cement— the latter is the cheapest and equally as effective as the former. The building itself should be constructed of tongued and grooved lumber, so that there will not be a possibility of cracks which cause drafts. The door should be not less than two and a half feet wide, and a window be placed in each roosting pen. The front of the scratching shed should be covered with one-inch wire netting, and during winter a muslin curtain, fastened on a frame hinged to the roof, should be dropped down over the wire to protect the fowls during stormy weather, and a small door or opening for the fowls to go to and from the outside runs. This door or opening should be closed each night to keep out rats, minks, weasels or other enemies. Shingled roofs are probably the most permanent, but in case of using shingles the ceiling of the house should be ceiled with tongue and grooved © boards, or during the winter, especially when snow is lying on the roof, the animal heat from the fowls will cause frost and dampness to collect. There are a number of excellent roofing papers now on the market, a two-ply thickness of which will make an excellent roof almost if not quite as durable as shingles. Paper roofs must be laid on an even surface, and never upon shingling lath, and should be painted every few years. A paper roof PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 15 will not need the pitch required for a roof that is shingled. On some of the large poultry farms, one-half the window sash is composed of glass, and the other half muslin. The latter allows plenty of fresh air with- out drafts. Ni TO ea nile f Wr Ng Awl , H iy i ie es ZZ SINGLE SECTION BROODER HOUSE WITH SCRATCHING SHED AND YARD. THE FLOOR On a well known, successful poultry farm the floors are merely the dry earth, which 1s filled up on the inside of the house a foot above the level of the outside ground. This floor is then heavily covered with straw or leaves to induce scratching. Hens love to wallow in the earth during the winter. The top soil should be cleaned off every spring and fall. Some poultrymen have board floors, others cement, but the majority prefer the dry earth floor, as stated. 16 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. KEEPING OUT RATS A thick layer of rough stones, covered with broken glass under the foundation and floor, is the best defence against rats, which must be kept out, or they will destroy chickens by wholesale. Some add a wire netting outside the house, but this will rust and must be renewed at intervals. It will pay also to keep rat traps about, which should be kept clean by frequent scalding. It is a good plan to have a number of traps of different .forms, and use them in rotation, as these pests are very sly and soon learn to keep away from a trap after they find out how it works, If the floor is raised above the ground, as noticed before, you will have little trouble with rats. The moment a rat hole is discovered in the ground around a building, a spade should be run into it and fol- lowed up to the hiding places. Nothing so much scares rats as the knowledge that they are being pursued. HEATING AND VENTILATION While a warm house is essential to good results, it must at the same time be well ventilated. How to ac- complish both is an important consideration. Everyone knows that hens lay less in winter than in summer, for the reason that their natural heat is consumed rapidly PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 17 in cold weather, and there is little left to go into eggs or flesh. Some think to counteract this by artificial means, but the fowls must be let out-in order to keep them in good health, and the change from an overheated house to the outdoor cold is apt to cause disease. Again, the burning of oil or gas cannot fail to vitiate the air, while steam or hot-water pipes avoid this to some extent, it is difficult to keep an even temperature. The best plan is the one already suggested; of having the house derive its heat from an adjoining building, such as a cow-house, stable or dwelling. If a stove is used at all, it should be where a large number of fowls are kept, and would then be best placed’ in a middle room, with which the other compartments communicate. If the location and exposure are well chosen, as above suggested, the sun will in most cases give all the additional heat necessary. Good ventilation can be secured by making a roof chamber in the peak, loosely floored, and with traps or slats, or simply bored holes, at the sides. NAW i PLAN FOR VENTILATING. 18 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. This will give sufficient draft to carry off the bad air, and in extremely cold weather the outlets can be stopped to any extent desired. There should be no attempt to ventilate from the floor of the house itself, except through the cracks under the door and around the entrance trap; otherwise the house will be robbed of its heat, and the fowls will be inevitably chilled. CHAPTER Tt FITTINGS, INSIDE AND OUTSIDE. ROOSTS Remember what has been said about having the roosts thick and not too far from the ground. They should also be readily removable, so that they can be frequently taken outside and cleaned and sprayed with Pratts Liquid Lice Killer every two weeks. Round or oval-shaped bars, say three inches through, sawn length- wise, make the best perches. If made flat, the edges must be rounded. Bent iron or wooden U-shaped sockets PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 19 should be fastened to the sides of the house to rest the perches on. Beneath the roosts it is well to have a plat- form, which will catch the droppings, and prevent the floor from becoming filthy. This should be removed and cleaned daily. Roosts can also be made of two by three-inch scantling, planed, the two-inch side resting on cross pieces. The fowls roosting on the two-inch side have plenty of space to spread their feet, and besides the scantling will support more weight than when the three-inch side is used. NESTS Three important points are to be kept in mind in providing nests. They must be sufficient in number, roomy, and readily cleaned. Have not less than four nests for every dozen hens, at least a foot square, and up to sixteen inches for large breeds. Let them be strong, but as simple in construction as possible, without per- manent floors or corners for the dirt or vermin to collect. Handy nests can be made by building a low rack, and laying on it a row of nail kegs, facing the open ends to the wall. In the bottom cut a small hole for the purpose of gathering the eggs. To prevent egg eating, nests should not be low enough for fowls to reach them from floor; nor should they be so high as to make them hard 20 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. to get into. Many poultry men now use trap nests, to tell which hens are laying; the non-paying hens can then be separated, and killed for market. In some poultry houses nests are placed under roosting platform. There is, however, the objection that the hens are apt to scratch litter in them, and it gives rats and mice a chance to make hiding places underneath and back of them. BOX NESTS. KEG NESTS. Never nail boxes on the side of buildings for nests so that the hens must fly up to them. Nests should be movable, so they can several times a year be taken out- doors and cleaned. THE RUN Give the fowls all the range you can spare. The less room you have the more particular you must be about cleanliness, although this is important under all circumstances. With a light, dry top soil, or even sifted ashes, constantly raked over and often renewed, fowls PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 21 can be kept healthy even in a covered run, so that those who have but little space can make up in attention what they lack in facilities. A grass run of half an acre will do for fifty light breed fowls, but would be hardly enough for the heavy breeds. Where more than this number are kept, and there are several houses, a gravel run for each house, and a large field of grass where the birds can go by turns, economizes the space. Fencing, when required, is easily made of wire netting, which is cheap and durable, especially when galvanized. The lighter the breed, the higher the fence, is a simple rule; running from a yard high for Cochins or Brahmas to eight feet for Game or Bantams. Hamburgs will mount almost any height of fence, and would be better clipped. This can best be done by opening one wing and cutting the first, or flight feathers, of which there are ten as a rule. This will prevent flying, and is not unsightly, as when the outer wings are mutilated. Where fowls have a whole farm to range in, there ought to be no trouble in keeping them healthy. Where the run is limited, but still large enough to allow it, the planting of fruit trees, or even of gooseberry or rapsberry bushes, will afford an additional protection from the wind, besides inducing a supply of insects such as the birds enjoy for food. 22 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. We have already mentioned a house with a double run as being desirable where there is not room enough for a very large run. We show here a cut of such a house. It will be seen that the accommodations are complete, no matter which of the runs is in use, the other being shut off simply by closing the approaches to it from the house. By building both runs on the same side of the house, the cost of one fence is saved. . * —= 2 a ee! — 0.0%, GOOG SOORORRO Be we gue OES Pak oO wa: XRT Ee PORK wee ei ee 6: oe x er TWO-SECTION HOUSE WITH SCRATCHING SHEDS AND YARDS. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. O35" | ll i ull a Vv. RS vu, I w “ a —-, / i ? \ I be I | il CHAPTER IV. SELECTING STOCK. EGG STOCK Selecting stock is a matter of great importance, and depends upon the plan you have in view. If your principle object is to supply eggs, and your place is too small to raise chickens, you begin by getting in the spring as many hens as your house will carry comfortably. They should be no older than a year. It is not worth while to buy a cock. The hens will lay almost as well without him, and you save in food and space. If you have bought good, healthy hens, they will begin laying at once, and keep at it until fall, if they are rightly fed and properly housed. The best plan is to buy breeds that do not sit; but if a hen insists upon sitting she can be cured by keeping her a few days in a coop on hard 24 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. ground, with water, but little food, sheltered of course from the driect sun in the hot weather. It is true that a Cochin cannot be brought to her senses in this way; but it is better to do without Cochins when eggs are the only object. Other breeds, treated as well, will usually lay again in a fortnight. | Buy only young birds, and healthy ones. It is only by practice that one learns to detect age in a fowl, but there are some signs that may be relied on in a general way. A young hen is usually trim and graceful, her legs are smooth and delicate, her comb and wattles soft and fresh looking. When she grows older she takes on flesh, her legs look hard and horny, and her comb and wattles dry and tough. The shrewdest of beginners may be deceived in spite of every care; he must learn by experience. When the hens stop laying in the fall, do not let them get out of condition, but kill or sell them, and buy pullets hatched in the spring. These will have moulted already, and will begin laying in October or November, and produce eggs pretty regularly until the winter is over. They can then be killed or disposed of and re- placed; or the best of them may be kept until fall, when none but extra good layers will be worth keeping over another winter. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 25 CHICK STOCK If chicken raising is to be gone into as well as the producing of eggs, there must, in the first place, be plenty of room. It is a mistake to try to raise chickens in small quarters, where profit is the object. Of course, if it is a mere matter of diversion, it can be done even in a limited space. os 3 With room enough, then Plymouth Rocks, Wyan- dottes, Rhode Island Reds, Brahmas or Langshans will be best chosen for the purpose of raising chickens. They are all good layers, without being too much bent on sitting, like Cochins. The last may be kept to serve as brood hens, but they are not to be set on their own eggs, if the chickens are for market. It is a fact, though, that a Cochin hen, crossed with a Dorking, Crevecoeur or Houdan cock, will produce a large and fairly good table fowl; nor are young Cochins, killed under nine months, at all to be despised on the home table. Probably the finest and hardiest of table fowls is the Houdan. They do best on the farm, where they have ample range. They lay well and grow quickly, and their flesh is as fine as that of the Dorking, which has to be so carefully reared that it is hardly to be recom- mended, although its flesh is acknowledged to be equal to almost anything else that can be put on the table. 26 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. Let it be remembered that, no matter what breed is chosen, spring birds must replace, or at least be added to, the stock every fall. This is the only way to have eggs in the winter. SKELETON OF CHICKEN. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 20 CHAPTER'Y. FEEDING AND MANAGEMEN FLESH OR EGGS This chapter will treat only of the feeding and management of adult fowls. Chicks will be given a separate chapter. Feeding has two objects: One is to produce flesh; the other, to produce eggs. If the fowls are intended for the market, the quantity and quality of the flesh is of great importance. If they are wanted for laying only, too much flesh is a fault—for fat hens will not lay, and a laying hen should never be so fat as to prevent her gizzard from being felt. A fat male bird, too, is lazy and unhealthy. On the other hand, it will not do to starve the fowls. They must have enough, or they will be good for nothing. In this, as in all other matters, the middle course is the safe one—neither stint nor overfeed. 28 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. HOW TO FEED It is a good rule to give the fowls as much as they will scramble for, and then stop. If they are not eager for more, they do not need more, and the surplus is worse than wasted. Two meals a day are enough where there is a run sufficiently large to allow the birds to forage for themselves. One of these should be given early in the morning, and the other just before roosting time in the evening. In winter, or where the run is limited, they ought to have three meals, but the midday meal should be a light one. The first feeding ought to be of soft food, so as to get promptly into the system, and not merely lodge in the crop, for the birds have had a long fast since supper. But in the evening grain is best, for it has all night to digest, and is more staying, which is especially important in the cold season. All grain food should be scattered among litter, such as hay, straw or leaves, so that the fowls will be ~ compelled to scratch for what they get. This gives ex- ercise, keeps the blood in good condition, warms the body, and greatly assists in digesting the food. Just how much to feed a fowl daily is hard to determine, but ordinarily an iron spoonful (equal to half a handful) of mash in the morning is sufficient for every two fowls in the pen, and a full handful of grain at night, scattered among PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 29 litter, for each fowl in the pen. Where a noon meal is given, a half-nandful of grain scattered among litter for every fowl is sufficient. | Of late years considerable attention has been called to dry feeding—that is, placing the ground grain in a hopper so the fowls can help themselves at will. This grain is not moistened at all. It is claimed on the one side that dry mash feeding keeps the fowls in better condition, they do not suffer from bowel troubles and do not overfatten. On the other hand, it is charged that this system is too expensive on account of the waste, the fowls throwing out a lot of the mash that does not suit their fancy, and also that the hens prefer the He slightly moistened and will eat it more readily. 7 A very good mash for fowls is composed of two parts, by weight, of bran, one part each of middlings, ground oats, cornmeal and beef scraps, five per cent of linseed meal, and Pratts Poultry Regulator in the proper quantity, all the ingredients well mixed. CHANGE OF FOOD Fowls, like men, need variety. In winter, food that heats the blood is entirely proper; in summer it should be avoided. Middlings in summer may be replaced in part by cornmeal in winter; but too much cornmeal re- 30 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. sults in unhealthy fattening, and it ought always to be mixed with wheat middlings, not given pure. It is safer to give fattening food to the smaller and lighter breeds than to the larger and heavier. Avoid too much potato; it is starchy and fattening. Soft food should always be fed in clean troughs, and must not be sloppy, but crumbly, If it is too sticky, it will cling to the birds’ bills, and fret them. Remove whatever they leave at once. Scald troughs at least once a week. emcee DIFFERENT STYLES OF FEED TRAYS. GRAIN The three great poultry grains are wheat, oats, and corn, and their relation in regards to material for making eggs stands about in the order named. Neither grain should be fed exclusively, and a proper feeding is a mixture—that is, one part wheat, one part oats, and one PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 31 part corn, by measure. Wheat and oats are nitrogenous foods and corn is carbonaceous. A ration containing two-thirds nitrogenous and one-third carbonaceous material. is properly balanced. Barley is a good food, and can be given as a variety, but hens do not take kindly to it as they do wheat or oats. Buckwheat has some very good qualities, but it is very fattening and therefore should be used sparingly. Asa rule, very little barley and buckwheat are fed by our American poultrymen. Feed only good, sound grain, and never any poor, shriveled, burnt, musty or mouldy grains, as such cause sickness and loss. ANIMAL, FOOD Where the fowls are but few in number, the scraps from the family table will be all they will need in the way of meat; or, if they have a wide range, they will supply themselves. With a large number of fowls, and a comparatively small run, they should have a little liver mixed in their food every third day or so. Boil the liver, chop it fine, and mix it with the soft food, using the broth instead of water to mix with. Be careful; too much meat charges the quills with blood, and causes the fowls to pluck each other. Fresh chandler’s scraps, clams and fish may also be given, and will be eagerly eaten. Clams and 32 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. fish, however, should not be fed to hens that are laying, for the reason that such food (like onions and garlic) will taint the flavor of the egg. The most valuable machine around a poultry plant is a good bone cutter. Fresh cut bones, given twice a week in summer and three times a week in winter, will keep the fowls healthy and add greatly to the egg yield. One or two ounces to a fowl is sufficient. Feed in troughs at the noon hour. VEGETABLE FOOD The fowls cannot be kept healthy without a daily and ample feeding of fresh vegetable food. The laying down of the runs in grass, where there is plenty of room, will supply the best green food. If this cannot be done for want of space, they must have green food thrown to them. Cabbage leaves may be minced up and mixed with the soft food, or turnips may be halved or chopped, and put in the shed. Better than either, cut a large sod of turf and throw it into the run. Without green food the fowls will go off in looks and condition, and stop laying. In winter, boiled potatoes and raw cabbage make a desir- able addition to the food. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 33 Clover, cut in small pieces, and either fed in the soft food at the morning meal, or soaked and given at noon, is the best green food known for poultry, aiding in the development of both the egg and shell. Fowls will eat weeds of almost all descriptions. On one successful farm a lot of weeds are thrown into the pens each night so the fowls will have green stuff the first thing in the morning. It is a fact that they are more greedy for greens in the morning than they are at any other part of the day. DEVELOPING PULLETS Those who are raising pullets for layers should care- fully distinguish between the food that is necessary for making cockerels fit for market and that which will de- velop the laying pullets. A very large percentage of layers are both temporarily and permanently injured in ability to produce eggs by the improper course of feeding which many poultry keepers employ. We rarely see large quantities of corn or cornmeal given to colts or calves to assist in bringing them to maturity. Oats, bran, clover and Pratts Poultry Regulator are best for this purpose. When food is given in excess, not only is the food wasted, but the digestive apparatus is weakened; when an al- 34 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. most exclusive diet of corn is fed, the growing chick must eat excessive quantities of it to get enough of the small percentage of muscle-forming material which it contains. Growing young fowls do not readily fatten; but as the pullets become somewhat matured, there is a tendency to take on internal fat, which can be only a hindrance to egg production. Corn should be fed sparingly in the poultry yard, both in summer and winter. | The growing pullet should be fed solely with a view to the development of her frame and egg-producing or- gans, and for this purpose the same food that is best for laying hens is the best for her, since growth is regarded in both cases—in the one the growth of the egg, and in the other of bone and tissue. The chicks and laying stock can thus be fed with the same ration, which will prove a matter of economy in labor. When the cockereis be- come troublesome to the pullets they can be separated and fed separately upon the same food, or upon a diet com- posed more largely of cornmeal, if it is desired to fatten them. There is nothing better for growth and perfect de- velopment than milk, oatmeal, chopped clover, bran and Pratts Poultry Regulator. Every element required is contained in these, and in such proportions that the di- gestive organs will not be overtaxed by needless effort — PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 30 to secure enough of what is needed. It is preferable to feed the milk in the farm of sour curd, taking care, of course, that it is not kept too long after becoming sour. In this form it is highly relished by fowls, and is assimi- lated with no risk of bowel trouble. It is best to grind the oats, as they can then be digested with less tax upon the bird. The clover is best cut fine with a clover cutter, or by running it several times through an ordinary hay cutter, then mixed with an equal bulk of oatmeal and bran. This should be thoroughly moistened with boiling water, and allowed to stand during the day, or over night, if possible, as it will then be so softened as to be readily di- gested. The clover may be cut and used in its green state, or cut when in blossom and cured out of the sun, for use in winter. It is one of the best foods for growth, but on account of its bulky character must be fed in con- nection with more concentrated foods of a similar nature. In addition to those foods, an occasional ration of cooked vegetables of various kinds will be beneficial. If the pullets are confined in yards, a little ground meat or lean scraps from the butcher’s shop, boiled and mixed with their soft food, should be given them. A pointer worth remembering is that exercise is one of the most important requisites for developing pullets. The floor of their house should be heavily littered and all 36 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. the grain thrown among it. Make the pullets scratch; it will not only grow them faster, but it will keep them in good health, and start them at laying earlier in life than when they are not put down to hard work. WATER At least once a day, and the oftener the better, the drinking water must be renewed. Some device that will keep the water pure and cool and the vessel clean is es- sential. Many such are easily to be had, but a vessel that can be taken apart easily, and cleaned thoroughly, is the best. The cut shows a practical water fountain that meets these requirements. WATER FOUNTAIN WATER FOUNTAIN 6TONEWARE OPEN. CLOSED. FOUNTAIN. Where pans are used, they must be emptied and refilled very often, and so placed that they are not likely to have dirt scratched into them by the birds. Never leave your fowls without water, except on winter nights, when it may be best to have the vessels empty, to avoid PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 37 freezing. Ice or snow in the winter will take the flesh off the fowls inevitably. A piece of rusty iron placed in the drinking water affords an iron tonic especially valuable during the Spring, Summer and Autumn. \Za~ au << Wy thy BET I SS Z Y AY ai i LIME AND GRIT Lime in some form is indispensable for the forma- tion of egg shells, and should be within the reach of fowls at all times. Lime from an old ceiling or brick- layers’ rubbish is suitable. Egg shells are also excel- lent, but should not be given without first being finely broken, or hens may thereby be taught to eat their own eggs. Oyster shells are also recommended. Lime water is the most effectual remedy for hens laying soft-shell eggs; a few teasponfuls to a pint of water is sufficient. Egg shells, broken finely and mixed with the meal, are also useful. Hens in their natural state necessarily pick up, with their food, a large amount of shell-forming ma- terial, as well as gravel; but when fed without these being added, and left to their own inclination in picking them iia ala 88 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. up, they, no doubt, obtain a much smaller proportion of these necessary adjuncts; we should therefore endeavor to imitate nature by adding these to their food. Good sharp grit, such as crushed flint or granite crystal, is absolutely necessary to the health of your fowls, both young and old, and it should always be kept within reach. MANURE Cleanliness is only to be had by collecting the drop- pings daily. The best plan is to have a wide board, so fastened that it can be easily removed, under the roosts. This can be cleaned daily and the droppings collected in a box kept for that purpose. Mixed with soot, fine ashes or dry dirt, they make a strong manure, excellent on cabbage or strawberry beds, and in fact anywhere, diluting when necessary. Gardeners know its value. CARE OF NESTS The straw in the nests should be softened by break- ing and beating before it is put in—and it must be changed often, so as not to get foul—otherwise the birds will lay outside rather than use the nests. Excelsior is frequently used, but most poultrymen prefer good dry grass. The nests should be frequently dusted with Pratts Powdered Lice Killer. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 39 GATHERING THE EGGS Eggs should be gathered at regular times, say twice a day. Trap nests will enable the gatherer to know the ege of every hen. This is important when chickens are to be raised, as it is possible thus to be sure of the character of the brood by selecting eggs of known parentage. FEATHERS A PROFIT With a large stock of fowls, the feathers can be made an item of profit. Mix with the small feathers the plumage stripped from the quills of the larger ones, and place them loosely in paper bags. Hang them up in a warm place to dry, and after a few days bake them several times for about half an hour in a slow oven, hanging them up again for two or three days between the bakings. Thorough drying and baking makes the feathers crisp, and avoids the danger of offensiveness. 40 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. CHAPTER VI. HATCHING. SELECTING EGGS To avoid poor results in hatching, the eggs must be selected carefully. They must come from strong and healthy birds, and give promise of fertility. To get eggs from a place where there is only one cock to more than six or eight hens, is to invite failure in hatching, and the same is true where the cock is poor spirited and underfed. Select only fresh eggs—for stale ones, if they hatch at all, will produce weak chicks, and take longer in hatching. In geting eggs ready to set. from your own stock, write on each with a pencil the date of its laying, and keep it in a rack or in bran, butt downwards, where it cannot be shaken or jolted. Some pretend that the sex of the .chick can be told from the looks of the egg, but it can- not be done; nor can you be certain that an egg is fertile until it has been sat on for a short time at least. Eggs that should not be used for hatching are extra large ones, double-yolked, very small, with ridges or humps, out of shape, or with thin shells. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 41 SITTING HENS Probably the best setting hens, and the most careful and faithful mothers, are of the American class—the Ply- mouth Rock, Wyandottes and Rhode Island Reds, with some of the foreign breeds. The Brahmas and the Cochins are also good, but being large and clumsy are very apt to break eggs in the nest or trample upon the young after being hatched. : Never set hens in the regular laying house, for the main reason that to do so is to introduce vermin. A set- ting hen is a regular louse factory. During incubation, the only food the hen needs 1s whole corn and grit—the former being slow to digest keeps up the animal heat in the body of the hen, so nec- essary in hatching the eggs, and the latter cuts the grain making it more digestible. The importance of grit can- not be too strongly impressed upon the mind of the poultryman, and it also must not be forgotten that grit is of very little use unless it is hard and sharp. There- fore pebbles or gravel can hardly be called good grit since they generally are round and smooth, having no sharp edges with which to cut the grain. The hen is inactive while she is hatching, and, natu- rally, the grain does not so readily digest as is the case when she is about taking exercise. Therefore, absence 42 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. of grit is very apt to produce indigestion in the sitting hen. Fresh water must be supplied daily, and always kept within reach of the hen so she can help herself at will. The corn and grit, too, must be constantly before her. Before the hen is set, she should be liberally dusted with Pratts Powdered Lice Killer, and the nest also dusted with it the first and second week, but it is best not to use insect powder in the nest during the last week of the hatch. Should an egg be broken in the nest, wash the remaining eggs with lukewarm water, and if any part of the nest has become soiled, it should at once be replaced with clean material. THE NEST FOR SETTING It has often been noted that when the hen steals her nest, she invariably selects a rather moist, cool spot, and, as a rule, the nest is made on the ground. The result is the hen as a general thing comes off with a good brood. Following up the teaching of the hen in this par- ticular, we have found that the best nest for a setting hen is a barrel laid on its side, in some shady spot out- doors. Enough ground is excavated to lay the barrel in so that it will remain firm, and the dirt placed inside upon which to build the nest. Then hollow out a space suffi- PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 43 ciently large, and place the nesting material in it. The barrel is covered with heavy roofing paper to make it waterproof. In front of the nest a lath run is made (A-shaped), in which the feed and water is placed. The hen is al- lowed to get on and off her nest at will. It is a mistake to set hens in boxes, shutting them in so secure that the attendant must take them off and on the nest. No one is so wise that he knows when a hen should be removed and when she should be returned. Leave that all to the hen, and the eggs will hatch better and the chicks will be stronger. After the nest is made, place in it a china nest egg. Then, at night, get the broody hen and carry her to the nest, carefully setting her on the nest egg, and close up the front of the barrel with a board covering. The next morning take this away and allow the hen her freedom in the run if she wants it. After setting a day or two on the china egg, by which time she will become reconciled to her new surroundings, the setting of eggs can be given her. The day the hen starts hatching, close up the nest so she will be in darkness, and do not disturb her for twenty-four hours, by which time she will have completed her hatch and the chicks will be dry and strong and can 44 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. be removed. Never remove chicks while the hatch is going on, as by so doing animal heat is removed and the hatch is apt to be crippled. Do not bother the hen until she has completed her work. Do not feed nor water the hen while she is finishing her hatch, for the more quiet she remains the better will the results be, and, besides, it will do the hen no harm to fast for twenty-four hours. HOW TO SET EGGS Generally speaking, thirteen eggs are counted as a setting, but some of the poultry breeders send out fifteen. For early hatching, it is not advisable to give a hen more than eleven eggs, but after the weather becomes settled, from thirteen to fifteen eggs are about right, but it is never advisable to give a hen more than fifteen eggs, no matter how big the hen may be. Always set a hen at night, as she is not then so likely to become scared. The eggs should be taken in the hand, two at a time, and gently pushed under the hen. As she feels the presence of the eggs the hen will shuffle her body and show thankfulness. It is a good idea to mark the eggs with ink, so that in case the hen lays an egg or two (which often occurs when the hen has not become thoroughly broody) the newly-laid eggs can be taken out. Pencil marks on eggs PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 45 easily rub off when they come in contact with the oily sub- stance of the feathers of the hen. WHEN BUYING EGGS Poor hatches are often blamed on the eggs pur- chased, when other conditions are really at fault. On re- ceiving eggs from a distance, at once unpack the basket or box, and lay the eggs on their sides, so that the yolks may spread and rest. When eggs are shipped they are set on their ends, and the yolk settles to one point, where it remains safe from breakage caused by being jarred during travel. Naturally, the yolk in this position be- comes more or less cramped, and if the eggs are at once placed under a hen or in an incubator, the temperature will be too great for the condition of the yolk, and the © result usually is weak chicks or chicks dead in the shell. Never set a wild, scarey hen, especially on valuable eggs, as in her excitement she may break them and spoil the hatch. Some hens have too much heat in their bodies for a good, clean hatch,-and others have insufficient heat. Never expect as good a hatch from eggs received at a distance as from those fresh from your own yards, as they are often considerably jarred while in transit, which has a strong tendency to weaken the germ. 46 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. If results are not what were expected, don’t rush an angry letter to the breeder, denouncing him and then ex- pect satisfaction. State results in a polite way, and in nine cases out of ten, the breeder will meet the complaint at least half way. TESTING SETTING EGGS Egg testers are cheap and easily obtained. The eggs should be tested on the seventh day. When held towards the light in the tester, fertile eggs will show a dark life- spot in the center, shading off gradually toward the edges Barren eggs will show perfectly clear, and should be re- moved. They will not prove to have been spoiled by being sat on, but can be used for cooking or feeding chickens. By taking out the barren eggs, and doubling up the live eggs in two nests under one hen, a new lot may be set under the other hen. In testing eggs at night, they must not be held too close to the flame, or the chicks — may be destroyed by excessive heat. It is always best to set two or three hens at one time. Then on the seventh day, the eggs can be tested and the fertile ones given to one hen (or two as the case may be), and the remaining hen set with the new eggs. This will be getting more chicks in practically the same time, and there will not necessarily be small families. | PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 47 MODERN EGG TESTER. FERTILE EGG. BARREN EGG. HOME-MADE TESTER. SECOND OR WATER TEST On the nineteenth day the water test may be applied. Put the eggs one by one in a bucket about two thirds full of water heated to about 105 degrees, or say as hot as the hand will comfortably bear. Spoiled eggs will sink, and should be thrown away. Live eggs will float, and in a little while will “bob” up and down, as if the chicks were trying to jump out of the water. The advantages of this test are not only that it enables you to make room in the nest by taking away the dead eggs, but it softens the shells of the live ones, and makes it easier for the chicks to pick their way out. It is not essential, how- ever, if you have selected fresh eggs and kept them from getting too dry. HATCHING Chickens hatch as a rule in twenty-one days. There are one or two active breeds that break out a day sooner. 48 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. When perfectly fresh eggs have been set, some of them will perhaps hatch on the twentieth day, especially after the water test. When a chick is unable to free itself, it is usually because it is weak, the reason probably being that the egg was not fresh when it was set. In such cases do not break the shell, but put the egg in a bowl of warm water for a minute or two, being careful not to let any water get in, if the shell is at all chipped. When more than one hen is sitting, the one that has hatched the most of her brood can be left with her chicks, and the belated eggs can be put under the other hen. | rN vind PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 49 } =ll : oantes iNTAESEOUELOINGTOBUEQUTITINITTNNT = Ze \) ol ie "Till os iii IZ AS ato E a CHAPTER: .VIL. INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. ARTIFICIAL HATCHING is nothing new, having been practiced in Egypt and other eastern countries for centuries. In warm, dry countries, it is not so much of a problem as in America, with its uncertain climate; but the experimental stage is now past, and with proper care hatching “by hand” is an established fact. Generally speaking, the simpler the machinery the greater is the relative success. Intricate and expensive incubators are not desirable, because of the absolute neces- sity of constant attention to numberless details. It is not our purpose to grind anybody’s axe, hence we will not do any more than give a general description of a simple form of incubator, and make a few suggestions as to the running of it. So many hatchers are on the market that the choice among them must be a matter of individual preference, price and ease of management being duly considered. 50 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. HATCHERS A practical hatcher is one that perfectly regulates the application of heat, air and moisture; that can be relied upon to do its work when attended to at regular periods; that can be left alone over night without fear of overheating or cooling off the eggs; that will hatch out healthy chickens; and that any one with common sense and average judgment can learn how to operate. Ten dollars will buy such a hatcher, large enough to carry a hundred eggs; and for a little more than twice the money one can be had which will carry three hundred. The most approved incubators apply the heat from the top entirely, and a uniform temperature is secured by the use of a metal thermostat of simple construction, which automatically works a valve and keeps constant any degree of heat desired. The source of the heat is a lamp, burning in a tube; and ventilation is secured by a second tube outside the lamp-tube, conducting the heated air over the moisture pans placed in the top of the egg chamber. The moist, warm current of air then descends among the eggs, escaping through apertures in the front of the hatcher, which are fitted with slides so as to regulate the outlet thus controlling the amount of moisture. Egg- turning trays and testers are furnished by the maker of PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 51 the incubator. When convenient, natural or manufac- tured gas can be employed for heating instead of oil. In recent incubators the egg chamber is made deep, so that the chicks when hatched drop into a nursery be- low, and the doors are not opened until the hatch is over. For practical purposes, it is desirable to have more than one hatcher going at once, so that the live eggs after the first test can all go into one, and a new lot of eggs be started in another. : The points have all been so thorouguly covered by the manufacturers, that with a good incubator, all that is necessary is to faithfully follow the maker’s instruc- tions. Carelessness or inattention will necessarily result in disappointment. oe" HOT-AIR INCUBATOR. 52 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. alata RE u ige ini ‘Sig its = = i FOUR-SECTION HOT-WATER PIPE IN-DOOR BROODER. ARTIFICIAL BROODERS Nine dollars will buy an in-door brooder large enough to go with a small incubator, and for the same price a sectional brooder is sold—five dollars extra being charged for each additional three-foot section. This brooder is also heated by a large lamp, and the heat is regulated automatically. When the poultry business is done on a large scale a hot-water outfit is wanted, and these are furnished with an elaborate system of piping; but to begtin with the small brooders are sufficient, and can be used afterwards as nurseries when the business has outgrown their use exclusively. We show a cut of one of these small brooders and on the next page one of an out-door brooder, in which the heat is supplied by a lamp, and kept constant by the use of hot water. It is set on runners, and can be moved about like a shed. It will accomodate from 100 to 150 chicks, and it is claimed | i ; | a PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 53 that a pint of oil will run for twenty-four hours in the coldest weather. It would be tiresome to the reader, as well as use- less, to go into further details on this subject, as a postal card sent to any manufacturer will bring you a catalogue covering more information than you can digest. We shall, however, say a few words as to the operating. HOT-WATER PIPE OUT-DOOR BROODER. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 54 mo UE LL : : ‘ a1 ee] ; an ee h i Vi N/ io = =a aD Ca OUTSIDE VIEW OF HOME-MADE BROODER. INSIDE CONSTRUCTION OF HOME-MADE BROODER. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 55 HOME-MADE BROODER For the convenience of those who do not desire to spend the money for a manufactured brooder, we show cuts of a cheap home-made brooder, which any one can make at a trifling cost. For a hundred chicks, a base measurement of two feet by four will be sufficient; for two hundred chicks, three feet by six is recommended. Two dollars and a half will buy the material. The upper illustration shows the outside, and is so plain that very little explanation is needed. Buy your glass frames first, and make brooder to fit frames. Wiain- dow panes should be 8 by 10 inches. Entrance and lamp hole should not be closed, as the lamp must have air. The joint should be a tight one (dovetail preferred) as a draught would result seriously. The lower illustration is a cross section, and is thus described: Heat is supplied by a 2-in. wick lamp with flat bottom L, over which is suspended an inverted box with a galvanized sheet iron bottom A, and having in its sides ventilating or gas-holes GG. An inch above the sheet iron is a platform C, on which the chicks are placed; the space between forming a hot-air chamber B 2 in. high. Fresh air is supplied by a shaft H, which can be made from 1-in. speaking tube, and from the shaft passes into the chamber B, where it becomes heated, and thence rises through a warm-air 56 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. pipe F 1 in. in diameter into the brooder pen P P. Here it is partially confined by a cover D, adjustable in height according to the size of the chicks, along the edge of which is fastened a woolen curtain E, notched so as to let the chicks run in and out. The warm air circulates through the brooding pen thus formed, and finds outlet through ventilators V V V in the roof of M M. The platform C is hinged at the point T, so that the slope R can be raised or lowered at will by the cord N. It is supported when raised by the spring S. It is important to have the slope inside rather than outside the brooder door. When inside, the chicks are invited by the open door, and when in they usually find their way up the slope to the pen; but if the slope is outside the door they may fail to find the entrance, and be chilled before they can do so. The raising of the slope makes a double floor space and gives plenty of room for the chicks inside when the weather is too bad to let them go out. This form of brooder gives a constant circulation of warm, pure air; dries all droppings and renders them inoffensive; avoids all danger of crushing or crowding, and is in every way reliable. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 57 THE FIRELESS BROODER One of the largest poultry farms in the country has recently adopted the Fireless Brooder system, submitting the youngsters to the heating method for the first two or three weeks of their life, and then placing them in fireless brooders. It is claimed that the new system grows more rugged chicks, and there are less cases of bowel complaints and leg weakness. Fireless brooders are, practically, nothing more than a common box in which is placed a bed of cut hay on which the chicks rest at night, while a cotton batten or woolen covering comes down softly on their bodies. This retains animal heat and the chicks are snug. RUNNING THE INCUBATOR The same rules that we have given in Chapter VI apply here. In artificial hatching omit the water test. The cellar of a dwelling is a first-rate place to set an incubator, on account of the uniformity of temperature. Keep it out of draughts. RUNNING THE ARTIFICIAL BROODER The brooder comes in play say twelve hours after hatching. Cleanliness is the watchword if you would avoid vermin. Do not keep the chicks too closely con- 58 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. fined. In cold weather set the brooder on earth, or on a sanded floor, in a close room, or a shed with plenty of light and warm exposure. When frost is out of the ground it can go out-of-doors, but there should be a wire run around it. Warmth in the brooder must be seen to, especially at night; but after the brood is a fortnight old there will be no necessity to heat in the daytime, when the weather is bright. Justice to the maker of any machine requires that his rules should be followed, and as full instructions always accompany the brooder, no difficulty should be experienced if the directions are studied and kept in mind. Gsood @ avy =o SS I —— wee © oD amma sc am —_r— ——— en + =a = = —aa oS — = a a na eas = Sa a SS = as CHAPTER ya REARING CHICKENS. FIRST CARE OF LITTLE CHICKS Chickens need no food for twelve hours after they are hatched, and it will not hurt them to wait twenty- PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 59 four hours. If the eggs were set in the evening, they are likely to hatch in the afternoon or evening. Before closing up for the night, let the brood be examined, all broken shells removed from the nest, and the hen be fed and watered. Then shut her in so that she cannot leave her nest. In the morning the chicks will be strong, lively and hungry. Give them their first meal in the nest, and make it of corn bread, made of corn meal and Pratts Poultry Regulator—two ounces of the Poultry Regulator with every pound of meal; mix with sour milk if con- venient. The bread should be crumbled fine before feeding. Young chicks should never be fed on raw dough. It sours on the stomach, and causes many of the complaints to which they are liable. Let the hen have some of the bread crumbs, as well as all the corn she will take; also, plenty of water for the chicks. Milk is also very grateful. Do not try to improve on nature by trying to re- move the little hard or horny scale from the beak of the chick, and do not force its appetite by poking food or pepper-corns down its throat. Let it learn to eat and drink naturally. Pans or dishes for milk or drinking water should be very shallow, or the chicks may drown themselves. The best plan for water is to use a fountain giving a 60 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. constant supply, but preventing the chickens from step- ping into the water.. In fine, warm weather, the brood may be moved out-of-doors as soon as fed. In cold or wet weather they should be coddled by the hen on the nest for a day longer, and when removed it should be to a dry and sheltered place. One great trouble with the little fellows is the “head lice,” with which they are very apt to be more or less infested—not because the lice are so difficult to get rid of, but because they are so often neglected, probably on account of not knowing their presence. A good reliable remedy is Pratts Head Lice Oint- ment. It is safe and sure. | It is always well to make a thorough examination of the head and throat of every chick about ten days after the hatch, and if any of them are found to be so infested, lose no time in quickly applying Pratts Head Lice Ointment. Repeat every week. This simple treat- ment will surely put an end to the lice. +, “. = ‘ RE aha Gas eae are . BAtewe BARREL COOP. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 61 COOPS FOR LITTLE CHICKS A cheap and good chicken coop can be made by heading up a flour barrel and sawing it in two across the middle. Either half will serve for a coop by cover- ing the open part with slats. A little skill will make, or small amount of money will buy, a better coop. The main things to look at are: that the coop should be dry, easily ventilated but not draughty, and readily movable. The slats should be wide enough apart to let the chicks las? BS Pe S COOP WITH OPEN SHED. through, but not the hen, and there should be a shutter that can be put on at night. Coops must not be put too close together, nor too near to the other fowls. Wire runs for each coop are desirable to keep the broods from mixing. Wherever the coop is put, it should be on dry, loose earth, and be frequently removed to renew the same and prevent fouling; or the coop itself may be moved bodily every few days to another place. A very SS 62 _ PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. handsome coop is one made in two compartments, one with a closed front and the other with bars (page 61). A bar partition separates the compartments, and one bar in each set slides up and down so as to make a door. Each half is about two and a half feet square. The top 1s solid, with a pane of glass in it, if desired. To make all snug at night, it is only necessary to hang a piece of canvas or carpet over the bars of the open compartment, and the chicks which sleep under the hen in the closed half COOP FOR YOUNG CHICKS. can run into the other for a light breakfast in the early morning without getting chilled, some canary seed hav- ing been left there for them the night before. The coop ought to be further sheltered by a shed or lean-to, open to the south; and, indeed, a much simpler coop will do very well under a shed. If there is no shed, a good rain-proof coop can be made from nine-inch-wide planks, with some square stuff to use for framing at the corners, PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 63 and along the top and bottom, in front, as shown in cut. This coop, which is made to fit over a raised floor, will shed rain, and do well in all weathers. The floor must be covered daily with fresh, dry earth, or fine sifted ashes. Chicks must be cooped near grass, if possible. A grass run, even if it is small, is very important, for green food is essential to health. FOOD FOR LITTLE CHICKS The best possible food for young chickens is crumbs of corn bread, made with meal and Pratts Poultry Reg- ulator, as before described. It is always best to bake bread enough at a time to last them a couple of days, . and they should be fed four or five times a day at the very least. To feed often, and a little at a time, is the best rule for young chickens. So continue to feed for a week or two, after which they should have a greater variety. A point of the highest importance is regularity in giving them their morning feed. If their first meal is put off until long after sunrise they will suffer from hun- 64 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS, ger, and will not thrive as they ought. For the first three or four days a yolk of egg, boiled hard and chopped fine, may be given daily; after that, a little boiled meat, finely minced, should be given every day until the chicks are nearly a month old. In fact, fowls need three kinds of food—animal, grain, and fresh vegetable food; and one half of their food should be cooked, as it digests better so. Green food is even more necessary to chicks than to grown birds. When the chicks are very young, grass may be cut fine with scissors, and mixed with their other food; or lettuce or cabbage leaves, minced fine, may be given. After their beaks are stronger, these may be thrown in whole, instead of being cut up. WATER FOR LITTLE CHICKS Some breeders advocate keeping water away from chickens during their first month, but this is against nature. It is important, however, that the water should be cool, and it pays to be careful in this respect, not only with chicks but with grown fowls. As soon as the water gets at all warm it should be spilled and renewed, otherwise the birds will have diarrhoea and other troubles. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 65 SHIFTING FOR THEMSELVES After the first week the wire run may be dispensed with, and the chicks given their liberty. In another week the hen may be let out, but she ought not to be given too much of a run at first, or she will lead her little ones too far and overtax their strength. It is a good plan to dig up the soil, where there are plenty of worms, so as to give the chickens a chance to scratch and thus supply themselves with the animal food which is, as stated before, an essential part of their diet. By the time they are six or eight weeks old the hen will show signs of restlessness, and she should then be relieved of her charge. The latter may then need protection at night in the shape of a “cold mother,” which consists of a wooden frame with canvas stretched over it—strips of thin felt or flannel being suspended from the under side of the canvas. Here they can cuddle and keep warm if the weather is cold. It is not a bad plan to separate the chickens from the older fowls at night until they are strong enough to defend themselves. COLD MOTHER. 66 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. MOVABLE HOUSES Small houses on wheels, or light enough to be moved about on a cart or barrow, are recommended where there is plenty of room. These make it easy to keep the chick- ens separate, as above suggested; and such houses may also be used for older fowls where the number kept is large. “ * I OD" t tah (4 i : ‘rely near fal (* bs a cS oF \) AER CHAPTER XII. WATER FOWLS, TURKEYS, GUINEAS, PIGEONS, AND PEA-FOWLS. DUCKS Ducks can be made to pay, being hardy, easy to raise, and usually salable at good prices. Good ground is not essential, but a running stream of water is desir- able, although a pond will do. Some shelter is desirable, but it -will not do to keep the ducks with hens, the former being comparatively uncleanly. They eat a good deal, but fatten rapidly on boiled rice, and are also good ‘layers, their eggs always selling well, especially to con- fectioners. In the fall and winter they want a house, which need not be very large. One three feet high will serve. It should be kept dry and well ventilated. A shed is not necessary unless the house is very small. Cover the floor with clean straw, and use the same, with bricks for nests. It is well to have a hollow railing around the yard, to keep the birds from laying outside, PRATTS POWLTRY POINTERS. 109 which they will do if let out too early in the morning. The wild duck, or Mallard, is supposed to be the progen- itor of all the other breeds, of which we will describe seven varieties. RAISING DUCKS as in raising chickens, the object to be secured must be considered. If breeding is the purpose, the drake should not be over two years old. If near that age, two ducks to one drake is the rule; but if young and vigor- ous, two drakes may be given five ducks. The eggs may be hatched under large Brahma or Cochin hens, but must be kept moist. A dozen eggs are enough for one nest. If put into an incubator, it must not be with hens’ eggs in the same hatcher, for ducks’ eggs require more moisture, which is got by a daily sprinkling, and more air, with a longer-cooling time. Duck eggs usually take twenty-eight days to hatch, but may open a day or two before that. The ninth or tenth day is the best one for the first test, and the water test may be made on the twenty-fifth day. After the hatching, the ducklings may be treated much as chicks should be (see page 58). Unless you are raising for the table, do not feed too liberally, or with fattening food, but give bone-forming food. In raising for the table, flesh is the object, and must be considered in the feeding. 110 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. DUCK RAISING AS A BUSINESS Duck raising has become quite an industry of late years, and thousands are shipped weekly into the mar- kets Unlike geese eggs, duck eggs hatch well in incu- bators and the young are easily reared in brooders. For market, ducks should be killed when about ten weeks old, for they are more apt to lose than gain weight after that age. The Pekin is the most popular market duck, but recently the Indian Runner has been added on a number of farms to furnish a smaller sized carcass. In dressing ducks for market they are generally scalded, making it more easy to remove the feathers. Some farmers, however, dry-pick the feathers, but it re- quires quite an expert to do the work satisfactorily. The carcasses are shipped to market in barrels, it requiring about forty carcasses to fill a barrel. The best prices in market are paid from May Ist to July; from July to September there is somewhat of a drop which remains unchanged until September to November, when good prices are again attained. At ten weeks of age, Pekin ducklings should weigh from ten to eleven pounds to the pair. It costs about five cents per pound to feed ducks up to ten weeks of age, two cents for help, two cents to PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. BBO! market, and three cents for eggs, insurance etc., making a total of twelve cents a pound. All received over that amount is profit. From February to May, duck eggs show the strong- est fertility. 3 It takes about two weeks to fatten ducklings, for which a good food in equal parts of bran, cornmeal and middlings, and one-eighth beef scraps and Pratts Poul- try Regulator. Green ducks are shipped with heads on and undrawn. They are picked one-half of the neck, and to the first wing joint. White duck feathers sell generally in large city markets at from thirty-seven to thirty-nine cents per pound; colored ones at seventeen to twenty-three cents a pound. AYLESBURY DUCKS The Aylesbury is a very common form of duck. The plumage is entirely white. The bill is of a delicate pink or flesh color, and is well set into the full head, so as to form a line from the top of the head to the tip of the bill, which is very long. The neck also is long and fine; body long, but broad, sometimes described as boat- saaped. The eyes ate black, but very bright. The drake has one or two sharp curls in his tail. The legs 112 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. are short and strong; well-webbed claws; color, orange or dark yellow. The drake weighs on an average seven pounds, a duck six; but for show purposes nine pounds is the attempted weight. The delicate color of the bill is said to have been originally due to the fine white. gravel found near Aylesbury, England, where these birds originated—constant shoveling of the bills into this gravel keeping the bills very clean. Other sorts of fine gravel may accomplish the same purpose; but a bird which is being raised for show must be kept out of the sun, which soon tans the bill. 3 CAYUGA DUCKS. Cayuga Ducks are black all over, with lustrous green reflections, especially on head, neck and wings, there is also a tinge of claret brown or bright purple on the back and wings. In the drake the green is stronger than in the duck, and his bill is greenish yellow, with black tip, while hers is black, tipped with greenish slate. The color of the bill, however, varies with the seasons. In shape it starts with a downward curve, and ends with an up- ward one. The legs are orange color, but of a dusky shade. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 113 CALL DUCKS Call Ducks are named from the voice of the drake, which is like a low whistle. One variety has plumage like the Aylesbury, but with a yellow bill; another looks like the Rouen, which is described on page 114 ; the Call is, however, smaller than either- There is also a White Call, or decoy duck. All of these are too small to breed for the table, but are desirable as ornamental birds. PEKIN. AYLESBURY DRAKE. PEKIN. EAST INDIAN DUCKS The East Indian Duck is also known as the Buenos Ayres Black Duck. Their color is black, with rich green luster. They mate in pairs. The flesh is deli- cious, but the bird is small, and when shown weighs not more than four or five pounds. MUSCOVY DUCKS The Muscovy, or Musk Duck, sometimes called the Peruvian, has a noticeable musky odor. There is a great disproportion between the drake and the duck, the 114 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. former weighing up to ten pounds, the latter not going over six. There are several varieties of plumage— white, black, blue and mottled. The face is bare, with fleshy bunches at the base of the bill and around the eyes. The drake is very fierce. The ducks are good layers, and the flesh is plenty and good. PEKIN DUCKS The Pekin is comparatively a new comer, having first been heard of in 1873. The shape is like that of a canoe, high at bow and stern; plumage, white; legs short, set very far back, and colored deep yellow or reddish-orange, which is also the color of the bill; head large; neck long. This bird is hardy; best of all for laying; grows fast; the eggs are usually fertile, and the breed crosses well with the Aylesbury. The position of the legs gives the bird an upright walk much like that of the Penguin. The standard weight for drake is eight pounds; duck, seven pounds. ROUEN DUCKS The Rouen Duck is very handsome, resembling the wild duck in plumage, but of larger size, weighing some- times eight or nine pounds, and the flesh is excellent. The drake is of a stately appearance, with a fine, long PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 115 bill, Aylesbury shape, and in color yellow with a green- ish tinge, and a jet black bean at the tip. His head is green, with purple gloss extending down the neck, which is nearly encircled with a ring of pure white. The breast is a rich brown, the body gray, whitening at the tail. The back is green-black, and the curling tail feathers, dark green. Wings, gray-brown, with purple and white ribbon mark; flight feathers, gray and brown; legs, orange. The duck has a shorter bill, colored orange-brown, yellowing at the edges, and with a nearly black mark appearing towards the end; her head is dark brown, with light brown lines on each side of the face; breast, dark brown penciled on light brown ground; on the back the pencilings are black or brown; wing also penciled black and gray on the shoulder; flight feathers gray, with ribbon mark. The Rouen is hardy and pro- lific, and if the ducklings are looked after for the first ten days, and only allowed a short swim each day until their feathers come, they can be reared without difficulty. INDIAN RUNNER DUCKS It 1s claimed that the Indian Runner ducks original- ly came from the West Indies, where they had been bred for years as egg producers. They were introduced into this country about fifteen years ago. 116 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. In color they are fawn and white, being handsomely marked about the body and head. The bill is yellow, splashed with green when young, and green with black bean when fully developed; shanks and toes a deep bright yellow. The body is long and narrow and car- ried very erect; neck long and thin, with finely formed, long head. The standard weight is four and a half pounds for the drake, and the duck is a half pound lighter. Usually, however, they run over those weights. The quality of the meat is excellent, fine grained and juicy and well flavored. In ten weeks they can be grown to a remarkable size of three and a half to five pounds each. | They are great layers, breeders in England claim- ing as high as 260 eggs in a season for individual layers. In this country they have records of from 175 to 200 eggs per duck. OTHER VARIETIES OF DUCKS Mandarin, Carolina, Spotted Bill, Whistled, Pintail and Kasarka Ducks are also to be had when great vari- ety is wanted, but we will not take space to describe them. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 117 GEESE Geese are easy to raise, and are an actual benefit to the land, if put on after the grain is gathered; cost little to keep, and sell well. To make a business of goose raising, however, requires a pond of reasonably good size as well as plenty of pasturage. The geese should have a house to themselves, apart from the other fowls; well supplied with clean straw for making nests. The house should be easy to get in and out of. For setting, collect the eggs and keep them in bran, or in a rack, until the geese are ready to sit. Geese ought to be set early, as the hot weather is trying on the little ones. The time of incubation is from thirty to thirty-four days. The mother should have plenty of food and be sent on the pond daily, as moisture is important for the eggs. There is little difference in the raising of geese from the rules given for chickens. They are usually fattened for the market, and before killing should be put into the pond so as to clean the feathers, and afterwards put on clean straw, fasting for a day before being dispatched. Geese pair when sexes are equal, and while a young gander will often mate with three or four females, he usually has one particular favorite among the number whose nest he guards more jealously than those of his other mates, and after some years he is liable to grow so Lif 118 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. inattentive to all but the favorite that many infertile eggs will be the result. Geese seek mates in February, and any changing in mating should be made in the fall (not later than December) for best results. Geese live to a great age, and females are reliable and productive breeders for many years, but ganders of the domestic varieties are usually unreliable after seven to nine years old. An abdominal pouch of great size indicates great age. At one year old, geese are not sufficiently mature for breeding. They are better at the age of two or three years. The goose is a grazer. Its bill is provided with sharp, interlocking, serrated edges, designed to easily cut and divide vegetable tissues, and the tongue at the tip is covered with hard, hair-like projections pointing towards the throat, which serve to quickly and surely convey the bits of grass and leaves into the throat. A low, marshy field with a little upland does splen- did for geese. Ten geese will consume as much grass asacow. At three months old, a gosling will dress from ten to twelve pounds, depending on the season of the year hatched, breed, etc. We describe two varieties, the Gray or Toulouse, and the White or Embden, which are the principal ones, African, Canadian, Chinese and Egyptian are the others. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 119 GRAY OR TOULOUSE GEESE This breed is larger and handsomer than the white goose, and pays better to raise. The color is brown, with white on the under parts and tail coverts. The bill is orange-red in color; forehead, flat. WHITE OR EMBDEN GEESE The bird is pure white all over. It has a bright blue eyes; the bill is flesh color. This goose is said to lay better than the gray, as well as earlier. SWANS The swan is, of course, a fancy fowl entirely, al- though the flesh of the cygnet is very good. The female lays from seven to nine eggs late in the winter, out of which five is a good hatch. The old birds forage for themselves, but will need some grain in the winter time. The cygnets can be fed by throwing meal on the water. Swans are ill-tempered birds, especially in the breeding season, and are best left pretty much to them- selves. VARIETIES OF SWANS There are three principal varieties of swans: the English White or Mute Swan; the Australian or Black Swan—both of which are sufficiently described by their 120 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. names—and the Chili or Peruvian Swan, which has a black head and neck, with a white body. The White is the largest of the three. Swans are very long lived, and it is asserted that some have lasted a whole century. TURKEYS Turkey chicks die easily, but if they can be got through the first two months, or until they show or “shoot the red” on the neck and throat, they are from that time very hardy. Before that, wet or cold weather is fatal, unless the strictest care is observed. Dry soil is, therefore, one essential to success, and plenty of good shelter. One cock will take care of a whole yardful of hens, but it is best to limit him to a dozen, if chicks are to be raised. The hen usually lays about eighteen eggs, but if the first seven are given to a common hen, the turkey hen will have enough to take care of with the rest of her laying. The cock must be kept away from the nest, as he has a habit of destroying the eggs. The time of incubation is from twenty-six to twenty-nine days. The hen ought to be well fed, and supplied with food and water where she can reach it, just before the hatching is due, and must then be let alone until it is over. A good way to teach the stupid PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 121 chicks how to feed is to put one or two ordinary hen’s eggs under the mother about five days after the hen has been set, and the chicks, thus hatching at the same time with the young turkeys, will soon by example, teach them how to feed. They should never be forced to eat, and should not be given anything which will influence diar- rhoea. ; Young turkeys are subject to two special dangers: (1) a peculiar susceptibility to wet and (in less degree) to cold, and (2) a great liability to diarrhcea. For the first week the young bird should have little beyond hard- boiled egg, minced up with dandelion leaves and a small quantity of Pratts Poultry Regulator; a little bread crumb may be added. All through, dandelion leaves make far the best green food; but if they cannot be had, boiled onions, chopped fine, are the next best. As they get older, they are fed on good barley meal or oatmeal, and may also be given freely fresh curd squeezed dry from the whey; but buttermilk is about as likely to cause trouble as anything can be. The egg and Pratts Poultry Regulator for a week are of very great importance to prevent a slight tendency to diarrhoea from the first, which often sets in, and gets worse, and carries them off later on. While young turkeys require the utmost care when very young, ik 132 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. and should be confined for a while, let it be known that they will not thrive unless they have the benefit of a range as they become larger. They are active foragers, and must have a chance to excercise that peculiarity ; but in so doing they will pick up the greater part of their food. Those who grow tobacco should always keep a flock of turkeys, as they are very destructive to the large green worms that do so much damage to that crop. If allowed a range, and fed on grain at night, they can easily be taught to come up at regular hours. Turkeys keep growing until they are three or four years old; but can be used for breeding when they are two years old. There are six principal varieties of tur- keys: White, Black, Bronze, Buff, Slate and Narragan- sett. The heaviest of them is the American Bronze, which is known to have reached thirty-two pounds, and the hen twenty-two. Turkeys are of great use in a vine- yard, where they are active and vigilant in destroying bugs and worms. Inbreeding must be avoided. A single union of a male and female fertilize all the eggs laid by that hen in that season. One gobbler can serve twenty or more hens. The turkey is not fully matured until two years old, is at its best for breeding at three years, and nearly as good at four. Don’t breed from excessive weights. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 123 GUINEA FOWLS The Guinea hen is a good layer, but the eggs are of a wild, gamey flavor, and consequently not generally sold for table use. The Guinea is of a roving disposition. The hen starts laying early in April, and continues until October, during which time she will lay as many as ten dozen eggs. After July 1st is the best time to hatch eggs, as the weather will be more settled. It requires twenty-eight days to hatch their eggs. The hen has a habit of hiding her nest, and that too in some obscure place. It can be discovered by following the sound of her voice, a shrill cry, which she gives as she leaves the nest after having laid. All the hens of a flock are apt to lay in the same nest. In removing these eggs they must not be touched with the hands, for if the hen discovers that her nest has been tampered with she will hunt another. Remove the eggs from the nest with a stick. ne | 124 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. _ There are two varieties of Guineas—the Pearl and the White. It is said that a cross between these two will produce a carcass that very closely resembles that of the English Grouse. | Guineas pair. The young are delicate and tender until well feathered. The cock bird cares as much for the young as does the hen, guarding them during the day and hovering them at night. The male is larger than the female, more aggressive, and has different call. The hens make a noise sound- ing like: “come back, come back!’ while the males give “Tick, tick!’ Guineas do not scratch like other fowls do, and are therefore safe to have in the aie They do not thrive in confinement. PIGEONS Squab raising is an industry that is fast growing, and which has proved to be an excellent adjunct to poul- try farming. The usefulness of the pigeon generally ends after seven or eight years’ breeding. It is in its prime between the ages of three and five years. A bird of an average size requires about an ounce of food a day. The eggs hatch on the eighteenth day. The breed- ing season, as a rule, extends from March to September. The first egg is generally laid about two weeks after the PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 125 nest has been made. The best prices for squab is during January, February and March. As soon as the feathers begin to appear on the young, the mother hovers them at night, and after they have fledged, no further atten- tion is paid them. The young pigeon attains its full growth at about five or six weeks of age. Should the mother hen die while the young are but a few weeks old, the father takes charge of the nest, feeding and nursing the young as regular as did the mother. As a general thing, the hen lays her first egg between five and six o’clock in the evening, then she skips a day, and about two or three o'clock the following afternoon adds the second egg. Contrary to general belief, the pigeon is not destructive to gardens. Its beak is like that of a crow, to enable it to dig with, and its feet are unlike that of a chicken, consequently it cannot scratch. It walks over the surface of the ground and picks up what is in plain sight, which principally consists of weed seeds. When pigeons are mated they remain true, divide labor, and are ever in each other’s company. The older the male the more fatherly he becomes. At a day old, pigeons are called “peppers,’’ at ten days old ‘“‘squeakers,” and at three weeks old “squealers.” A squab grows very fast the first twelve hours, and very rapidly after the third day. As a rule, the male selects the nest and en- 126 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. deavors to persuade his mate to join him. It costs about fifty-two cents a year to feed each breeding bird. The Homer, Carneaux, Swiss Mondaine, Hen, Dragoon and Runt pigeons are used for squab raising, more generally in crossing. Large and successful pigeon raisers throughout the United States are daily using Pratts Poultry Regulator and find that it pays for its cost many times over. PEA-FOWLS The Pea-fowl is a striking bird, familiar in appear- ance to every one from its kingly crest and magnificent spread of tail, which, by the way, is not a true tail, but a development of the tail coverts or side feathers. They are wild in their habits, and the hen hides her nest, lay- ing from five to nine eggs usually, but sometimes more. The incubation period corresponds with that of the turkey nearly, being twenty-eight to thirty days. The hen cares for her brood until they are six months old, and they want special protection, with animal food. While this bird is ornamental entirely, its flesh when not over a year old is very good. One cock will look after three hens. Besides the ordinary variety, there are the White, the Pied, the Javan and the Black-Winged. The most interesting of these is the Javan, which is much PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 127 larger than the common variety, and sheds his long tail at the close of the breeding season, appearing at other times with a green tail with gold reflections, very hand- somely barred with whitish brown. He has a very high crest, is blue around the eyes, and his neck feathers look like scales. 128 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. PART 11: DESCRIPTIONS OF BREEDS For better understanding of the different breeds, — the Pratr Foop Co. publishes several official charts of : fowls, correctly illustrated as to feathering, coloring, etc. See coupon in every package of Pratts Regulators. — ANCONAS Are similiar in size and shape to the Leghorns. These are fairly good layers of medium size eggs. The color of plumage is black and white, evenly mottled. shanks and toes yellow. | ANDALUSIANS The hardiest of the Spanish breeds; very useful — and handsome. Sometimes known as Blue Spanish, by reason of color, which is slate-blue, laced in some cases with a darker shade. The male bird’s plumage is dark blue, or nearly black, on the neck and back. The face is PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 129 bright red; the ears, white. The body is small and com- pact; the legs, clean and longish; head fine, with long neck ; comb large, upright and single, falling to one side in the case of the hen. Tail feathers and neck hackles very dark blue, almost black. The most troublesome faults are feathers-of other colors among the slate. An- dalusians are good layers and non-sitters. The eggs are large and white. The birds make a good table fowl when young. They are hardy and thrive on dry soil. Select for size and erect carriage. BANTAMS Bantams exist in great variety, and are artificial birds entirely. Their beauty is their chief value. They are useful, however, in the gardens, to keep down slugs and insects. Their eggs are tempting to invalids, and may be easily cooked by pouring boiling water over them. Bantam chicks need more animal food than other breeds, and should be kept dry, with extra care during the first fortnight. In general, feed scantily to keep down the size. GAME BANTAMS The hardiest breed of Bantams. Points exactly the same as in Game fowls, from which they originated. Very courageous and strong. Varieties are Birchen, 130 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. Black, Black-Breasted Red, Brown Red, Golden Duck- Winged, Red Pyle, Silver Duck-Wing and White. JAPANESE BANTAMS The Japanese Bantam proper has a single and up- right bright red comb; short body; clean, short legs; upright or squirrel tail. The varieties are: Black-Tailed, White and Black. re COCHIN BANTAMS This is a very rare and remarkable breed, deriving its name from the fact that the first pair was stolen from the summer palace at Pekin. The Buff Pekin is an exact copy in miniature of the Buff Cochin fowl, for description of which see page 127. The other varieties are Part- ridge, White and Black. SEBRIGHT BANTAMS The plumage of the Sebright Bantam is very com- pact, and every feather is laced all around the edge with black. The comb is a rose of bright red, with spike be- hind, pointing upwards. Face, red; eye, bay color; ear, white or bluish white; shanks, blue. The cock is a fighter and full of conceit—throwing his head back nearly to his tail, drooping his wings half-way down his legs, and fid- PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 131 geting about as if always spoiling for a quarrel. In the Golden Sebright the ground color of the feathers is a rich golden yellow; in the Silver Sebright the ground 1s pure silvery white. The lacing, in both cases, is clear black. BLACK AND WHITE BANTAMS In the Black Bantam the plumage is perfectly black and lustrous. In appearance the bird is simply a diminu- tive Black Hamburgh, with a full and well-arched tail, short, clean legs, colored black or blue; bright red rose comb; face, red; ears, white. The White Bantam is like the Black in all points except the color of the plumage, which, instead of being black, is pure white. Red ear lobes are preferable to white, setting off the spotless white of the feathers to great advantage. BRAHMA BANTAMS are of two varieties, Light and Dark and Polish Ban- tams, White-Crested White and Buff Laced. BRAHMAS This is a favorite breed of Asiatic origin, and full of merit. The principal peculiarity is the comb, which looks like three combs laid side by side, the middle one being 132 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. considerably the tallest. Each of the three should be straight and regular ; and the triple comb is just as appar- ent in the hen, although smaller than in the case of the cock. The neck hackle of the cock is very full, and flows gracefully over the shoulders, which are flat and wide. The saddle rises higher, merging into the tail, which is nearly upright, and spreads considerably. The breast is full and deep. The plumage is not so fluffy as that of the Cochin, and the bird has a squarish appearance. As to leg feathers, see the description of Cochins, which will apply also to Brahmas in this respect. The size is very much the same; but some Brahmas have been known to weigh seventeen or eighteen pounds. LIGHT BRAHMAS The ruling color in Light Brahmas is white, but, in the case of the cock, the hackle is striped plainly with black. The leg feathers are white, mixed with black or gray, and the tail feathers are black. The hen has a white fluff; but she is marked black on the hackle and be- tween the shoulders, PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 1383 When not too heavily fed on carbonaceous material, such as corn, the Light Brahma hen proves to be an ex- cellent layer, her egg is of large size and dark brown in color. They are especially recommended as winter lay- ers. The breed is very hardy, and of a quiet disposition; they can be enclosed by a two-foot wire netting fence. At eight to ten weeks old the young make very desirable broilers, and at six months old are strictly first-class roasting fowls. | DARK BRAHMAS The head of the Dark Brahma cock is white; the hackle is also white, striped with black. Back, white, marked with black between the shoulders; saddle, white, with black stripes; breast, fluff, and underparts deep black; tail coverts fill up gradually with green-black as they near the tail, which is green-black with a fine gloss. The wings are white on the shoulders, with traces of black; the coverts cross the wing in the shape of a bar of glossy green-black. Nothing but clear white or dense black is found in the perfect bird. In the hen we find white and black-penciled hackles. The other plumage is 134 PRATTS POULTRY PCINTERS. light iron gray, with dark pencilings. The breast is pen- ciled like the back, likewise the leg feathers and the fluff. BRAHMAS FOR BREEDING Birds for breeding must be chosen with especial reference to the points which are sought to be brought out in the strain. The cock must have a perfectly black breast. All the under parts must be dense, and the hackles pure in color. The hackles of the hen should be sharply and darkly striped. In breeding for pullets, let the hen have dark hackles, feathers well penciled and not streaky ; choose a cock bred from just that sort of a hen. He must have broad, well-marked black stripes in neck and saddle hackles, and will not be hurt by a white spot on end of breast feathers, or a whitish edging to the fluff, as 1s often found. In both breeds of Brahmas ear lobes are large and red, falling below wattles ; head and beak short; expression, lively; legs yellow, the tint being towards orange in the dark breed. QUALITIES OF BRAHMAS Brahmas are paying fowls. They lay wonderfully, - are good sitters and mothers, are docile, thrive on any soil except a very wet one, do not need large Runs, and will not fly a three-foot fence. The flesh is good, and is PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 135 deep on the breast. The pure breed is not very desir- able on the table if over six months old; but crossing with the Houdan, Crevecceur, or Dorking, will produce large, hardy birds, and an abundance of good flesh. THE ORPINGTONS The Orpington breeds were originated by the late William Cook, of Orpington, Kent County, England, from which they derive their name. They were intro- duced into this country about fifteen years ago. The varieties consist of the Rose Comb and Single Comb Blacks, the Rose Comb and Single Comb Whites, the Rose Comb and Single Comb Buffs, the Rose Comb and Single Comb Diamond Jubilee, and the Rose Comb and Single Comb Spangled. It is claimed for the several varieties that they are not only excellent layers but produce a superior carcass both as a broiler and as a roasting fowl. The class show deep bodies, full, heavy breasts and short, thick thighs. Taking after the English fashion their skin is white, the shanks a sort of pinkish-white. In weight they run as high as ten and a half pounds for cocks, and eight and a half for hens. 136 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. COCHINS OR SHANGHAIS The Cochin, which is also an Asiatic bird, has a remarkable history. The birds first appeared in England about 1847, and at once attracted great attention. In fact, they became a perfect craze, and the prices paid were enormous. Cochins were presumed to be perfect in all respects; but a better acquaintance with them, and perhaps the natural effect of such extraordinary first favor, has caused them to lose repute. SHOW COCHINS Weight, eleven pounds for the cock; eight and one- half for the hen; neck, short; hackle flows wide over ‘a very short and broad back, rising abruptly into a broad saddle, in the case of the cock, and a full cushion in the hen, in which her tail is almost buried. In fact, it looks as if there were no back at all. Body, short and deep; legs very short, and set wide; breast, broad and full; shanks feathered down the outside to the ends of the toes; thighs well covered with soft fluff; tail, small and low; head, small and neat; comb, single, small and regular; ear lobes, red; bay or dark red eyes, general appearance lumpy. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 137 BUFF COCHINS Buff Cochins range in color from very pale buff to dark cinnamon. The plumage should be uniform al- ways; but in the cock the tail is darkest, with perhaps a little black in it. Legs, yellow or with a tinge of red. PARTRIDGE COCHINS In the case of cock Partridge, the breast and under parts are black; the head, hackle and saddle, orange-red, with black stripes; tail, black; wings, red and bay, barred across the middle with bright green-black. In the hens, the hackle is also orange striped, but the other plumage is a light brown ground with dark brown pencilings ; legs, dark yellow. WHITE AND BLACK COCHINS 'White Cochins are perfect only when every feather is pure white, and the shanks clear yellow. Black Cochins are uniformly black, including the legs. 138 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. QUALITIES OF COCHINS Some condemn Cochins utterly, except for the pur- poses of exhibition; but they are good layers, and are noted sitters, although they are too often broody when they ought to be caring for their chicks. They are hardy and easily raised, and make reasonably good eating when young. They fatten quickly, and must not be overfed. They are not much of a table fowl, unless crossed with the Dorking or Crevecceur. CREVECGUR This well-known fowl is of French origin. It is very short in the legs, especially the hen. The cock averages seven and one-half to eight pounds in weight, — but has been known to reach ten. These birds are very quiet, and bear confinement contentedly. They are full and compact in form; comb, in shape of two horns, and a crest red in color; throat, bearded and whiskered; plu- mage, black; legs, black and clean; face, red. The eggs are large, and the flesh of the fowl exceedingly fine. These birds are delicate, but will thrive if given plenty of run. % d rd 2s PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 139 DORKINGS The Dorking is an English bird, and a great favorite at its home. It has a deep, full body, with plump, pro- truding breast, especially in the cock; back and breast, broad; general appearance, square and plump, but com- pact; legs, white, or with slight rosy tinge; there is a double or fifth toe, the spur turning upward. Wattles, large and pendent; short, taper neck; full hackle. COLORED DORKINGS The Colored Dorking weighs considerably more than the other varieties. The color varies, the cock’s breast being in some cases black and in others speckled, with color on the back and sides, and hackles lighter or darker. The hen is brown or black, speckled with gray, or a darker color. The comb may be either single or double. When single. it is large and perfectly erect. WHITE DORKINGS White Dorkings are usually smaller than the colored. The plumage is pure white, although in the cock there is a tendency to cream or straw color on back and wings. The comb is double or rose comb, broad in front and raised to a point behind. White Dorkings look smaller than they really are, and in fact weigh more than a Silver Gray of apparently larger size. 140 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. SILVER-GRAY DORKINGS In the Silver Gray the cock’s breast is pure black; tail and larger coverts black, with metallic luster; head, hackle, back and saddle, silver white; wing, white, barred with black across the middle. The hen has a salmon-red breast, shading off to gray at the thighs; head and neck, silvery gray with black stripes; wings, gray; tail, dark gray, shading into dark brown or black inside; back, silver gray, or light gray. This bird is very handsome, and has a clean and high-bred appearance. QUALITIES OF DORKINGS As a table fowl the Dorking is unsurpassed. The meat is fine and abundant, especially on the breast and wings. The hen is a good sitter and mother, but not much of a layer, except when young. The breed is deli- cate, and needs dry ground and unlimited range. Dor- kings should not be hatched too early, as damp and cold weather is dangerous to the chicks. GAME Game fowls have changed in appearance since the days when they were bred for fighting purposes. As at present recognized the head of the cock has a snaky ap- pearance, with a long but strong bill, prominent eyes, and fine, smooth red skin. The ears are red; the neck, long; PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 141 hackles, very short, without spread; the back, flat and wide, narrowing gradually towards the tail; breast, broad and full; stern, narrow and well held up; the tail is a “whip,” being narrow and short; wings, large and strong ; legs and thighs, long; shanks, firmly set and cleaned scaled; toes, flat on the ground, and spurs low; the body feels hard to the touch. The hen may be described in pretty much the same language. BLACK-BREASTED RED GAME In the Black-Breasted Reds the cock is described thus: Neck hackle, bright orange; saddle, about the same; back, red; breast, thighs and under parts, deep black; tail and wing bar, black. In the hen the hackle is gold, with black stripes; breast, reddish fawn or salmon red, lightening to gray on the thighs; wings, back and upper tail feathers, brown, with fine partridge marks; legs of both cock and hen are olive or willow color, and the Oe are bright red. DUCKWING GAME In the Golden Duckwing the face of the cock is red and the head white, but lower down the hackle runs to a straw color. The saddle is also straw color or yellow; the 142 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. wing bow, shoulder coverts and back, are a light orange or gold; a blue-black bar crosses the wing; the breast, tail and under parts are black. In the hen the head is silver gray, and the hackle is the same, with black stripes; the breast is salmon color, lightening to gray on the thighs; other plumage, dark gray, penciled over sil-. ver gray, giving a silvery or frosted effect. Legs in both, willow; eyes, red and bright. The Silver Duckwing is very similar, substituting silvery white for the straw color in the cock, and lighter shades in the hen. BROWN-RED GAME Brown-Reds have a glossy green-black for a general color; on the breast each feather is laced with lemon or gold; hackles, lemon color with black stripes; back and shoulder coverts, lemon; legs of both sexes, very dark willow ; eyes, dark brown; faces, deep purple. PYLE GAME Pyle Game is like Black-Breasted Red, reading white instead of black in the description on page 141. Legs, yellow or light willow. Other Games are Birchen, White and Black. ORIENTAL GAME are White and Cornish Indian Games, Black-Breasted Red, Malay and Black Sumatra. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 143 QUALITIES OF GAME Game fowls are noted as layers, except the Black- Reds, and the eggs are small. They are good sitters and mothers, and the flesh is fine. Crossed with Dorkings, the result is a very satisfactory table fowl. Being so fond of fighting, it is the custom to dubb the cocks—that is, cut off their comb and wattles close to the head—when they are about six months old, otherwise they will pun- ish each other severely before they can be separated. HAMBURGHS Hamburghs are small in size; have handsome plu- mage; brilliant comb, square in front, with upright spike behind ; bright red face and blue legs. SILVER-PENCILED HAMBURGHS Silver-Penciled Hamburghs are small but graceful, the cock especially carrying himself very vainly, bear- ing his tail high, with a pretty curve; comb, full of points, and no hollow in center; ears, white. Pure white is the predominating color; but the cock’s tail is black, with green glossing; side and sickle feathers, black, sharply edged with white; wing coverts sometimes marked with black, with a faint narrow bar across the wing, which is edged with black. The hen’s hackle is pure white, the rest of the body white, with each feather penciled across the bars of black; tail feathers penciled in the same way. 144 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. GOLD-PENCILED HAMBURGS Same as Silver-Penciled except that ground color is not white, but golden bay. Cock’s tail, black, with bronze edging on sickle and side feathers, or bronzed all over. GOLD AND SILVER-SPANGLED HAMBURGHS The distinctive marking of the Spangled Ham- burghs consists of a black spangle or moon at end of each feather. In the Gold-Spangled the ground color is golden bay; hackle feathers, streaked with greenish black; tail, black ; spangles, large and regular. Cock has two bars of regular spots across wing. In the Silver-Spangled Ham- burgh ground color is silvery white, and tail differs from the Golden in hen, being silver white with black moons at tips. In both sexes spangles on wing covert feathers form two regular black bars across wings. WHITE AND BLACK HAMBURGS White Hamburgh is pure white, and Black Ham- burgh glossy black all over. Are apt to be larger than other varieties. Have characteristic rose comb, blue or lead-colored legs, and bright red face common to Ham- burghs. QUALITIES OF HAMBURGHS Hamburghs are non-sitters, but good layers, except the Gold-Spangled. They are very erratic and seek a PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 145 wide range, flying almost any height fence. Eggs large, especially in the case of the black variety ; flesh, good, but scant, by reason of the small size of the bird. HOUDANS Houdans are a French breed, but are very much like Dorkings, with large and compact body, shortish legs, and fifth toe. The bones are, however, smaller. Plumage is mixed or speckled black and white. Wattles nearly con- cealed by whiskers; comb, very distinctive, looking like two parted book leaves, with a feathered crest behind it. QUALITIES OF HOUDANS Houdans are hardy and lay well. Very fine as a table fowl. Eggs very likely to be fertile from the great activity of the cock, who requires a well-stocked harem. JAVAS Javas are similar in size and other respects to Ply- mouth Rocks. The cocks weigh 9% pounds and hens 7¥%4 pounds. The varieties are Black and Mottled. LA FLECHE Another French breed, but resembling the Spanish. The body and legs are large and long, the plumage close 146 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. laid and dense, legs slate color, plumage black with green reflections, comb two-horned, like the Crevecceur, with two small points also in front of the nostrils, and bright red in color. Wattles are bright red, and hang down very long; ear lobes dead white and very large, sometimes meeting under throat; carriage bold and smart. QUALITIES OF LA FLECHE The La Fleche is a good layer, eggs large and white, non-sitter; flesh fine and white, but legs dark. Capons are produced from this breed in France. LANGSHANS Langshans are a Chinese importation, and sup- posed to be related to or derived from Cochins, although this has been denied. Langshans are large birds, with long legs feathered, tail well furnished and carried high, scanty fluff, breast full and prominent and good outline, plumage close and glossy. Varieties are Black and White. QUALITIES OF LANGSHANS Langshans are good on the table and hens lay well, but are not greatly disposed to sit. Make good mothers, however, and the fowl is hardy and easily raised. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 147 LEGHORNS eee Leghorns are somewhat small in body, but very compact, and of sprightly and pleasing appearance. Have single combs, quite large, deeply toothed, and running down over the back of the head. The rose comb is also seen in the brown and white varieties. The wattles are long and pendent; ear lobes, white; beak, yellow; legs, same color, and clean; hackles, full; tail of cock, sweep- ing. The hen’s comb falls in a single fold to one.side. WHITE LEGHORNS White Leghorn’s legs are bright yellow, face red, plumage entirely white; comb either rose or single. Brown Leghorns much like white in shape and size, but plumper. BROWN LEGHORNS The hackles of cock are golden bay with black strip- ngs; back is red with a stripe of brighter bay on each feather ; breast is black and full; wings dark red, barred with bay and green black; tail, black and quite long. Hen has light brown breast; yellow neck hackle, striped with brown; back, brown, slightly penciled. | BLACK LEGHORN There is also a Black Leghorn, in which the plum- age is black; the beak and legs are, of course, dark. The other varieties are Buff and Silver Duck-Wing. 148 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. BUFF LEGHORNS Similar in size to the White variety, only having a rich, deep, clean buff color. Excellent layers. QUALITIES OF LEGHORNS Leghorns are astonishingly good layers, especially the Whites. Are hardy and precocious, laying and breed- ing early. As a table bird they are not notable. MALAYS Malays are of Asiatic breed, but are very different from Cochins. They stand up straight, and are very long in neck and legs. The wings protrude at shoulders, and are carried high. The body narrows towards the tail, which is small, and that of cock droops. Viewed in pro- file, the neck, back and tail make up three convex curves, descending at an angle. Shanks and thighs are large. Feathers are narrow and glossy, and sit close. The col- oring varies, white being found, but the most usual being like the Black-Breasted Red Game. Beak is long and hooked, head also long; comb, lumpy; wattles small, with _ small deaf ears; eyes; white or yellow; overhanging eye- brows; head and throat snaky looking; legs, yellow and clean, with very large scales. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 149 QUALITIES OF MALAYS Malays need plenty of run and vegetable food, as they are addicted to feather eating. Are hardy when grown, but delicate as chicks. Make a good table fowl, and cross well with Dorking, Spanish or English Game. They do not lay well, and are exceedingly quarrelsome and ferocious, especially in confinement. MINORCAS—BLACK AND WHITE Minorcas, sometimes called Red-Faced Spanish, look much like the Black Spanish, but with red faces, larger combs and shorter legs. Also resemble Leghorns, but have a larger comb. There are White and Black Minor- cas, but latter are most common. Plumage is metallic black and very handsome. They are larger than the White-Faced Spanish, and cock will weigh eight or nine pounds. Ear lobes are white, the legs clean. QUALITIES OF MINORCAS Minorcas are very good layers, are precocious and hardy, and do not sit. Thrive well under all conditions. POLAND OR POLISH Polands, or Polish fowls, probably include Creve- coeur, Houdans, and perhaps La Fleche, and those de- 150 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. scribed below. They comprise all varieties of tufted or crested fowls; comb is of a two-horned character, but nearly invisible in the Polish breeds. WHITE-CRESTED BLACK POLISH The most commonly known variety of Polish is the White-Crested Black. Cock carries himself boldly and gracefully, with neck thrown back. Comb almost invisi- ble; wattles, bright red and full; ear lobes, pure white; body plump and short; legs short, and black or lead-blue in color. Plumage, black, with bright reflections on tail, saddle and hackle. Crest, theoretically, pure white, but hardly ever found without some black feathers; in shape the crest is regular, large and full. Cock weighs five to six pounds. Hen’s color is a rich black, her crest white and globular. She weighs four to five pounds and is plump and compact. This breed is rather delicate. OTHER VARIETIES OF POLISH Other varieties are Golden, Silver, White, Buff-Laced. Bearded Golden, Bearded Silver and Bearded White. QUALITIES OF POLISH Polish fowls are quite hardy, but subject to colds, and must be carefully sheltered in wet weather. They lay well and are non-sitters. Excellent on the table. PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 151 PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BARRED WHITE AND BUFF Plymouth Rocks are a popular American breed, which probably originated in a cross of Dominique and White Cochin. The comb is straight and single and the head is fine. The legs are without feathers, and bright yellow in color, which is also the color of the beak. The shape is an improvement on the Cochin, but much re- sembling it. The plumage is pure cuckoo gray, barred with dark bands of almost black or blue gray, broad or narrow, according to the taste of the fancier. There is also a white variety, in which the plumage is pure white. The Buff variety is a clear buff, uniform in shade except the tail, which is deeper in color. QUALITIES OF PLYMOUTH ROCKS Plymouth Rocks are good layers of small eggs; good table fowls; good sitters and mothers; hardy, thriving on any sort of soil, and bear confinement well. They grow more rapidly and earlier than any other breed. REDCAPS Redcaps are a large type of Hamburg, with a large rose comb. Cock weighs 714 pounds and the hen 6% pounds. They are good table fowls and fair layers. 152 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. RHODE ISLAND REDS This breed is springing to the front. It originated on farms in the State of Rhode Island, where it came to notice on account of its remarkable laying and excellent table qualities. In size the breed compares with the Ply- mouth Rocks. There are two varieties, the Single Comb and the Rose Comb. They are very hardy fowls. SILKIES AND OTHER BREEDS Other breeds are Silkies, a fancy breed, the feathers of which hang loose like fibers of silk or wool. The skin is very dark. Rumpless fowl, have entire absence of tails. Black Sumatras are at the present time very seldom bred. Frizzles are a bird with feathers turned back towards the head. Two new breeds lately intro- duced are the Buckeyes and American Reds. American Reds are similar to Rose Comb Rhode Island Reds. - SULTANS | Sultans are probably a variety of Polish fowls, but differ very much in appearance from the varieties above described. They are very small, the cock weighing only four to five pounds. The plumage and crest are white; legs short, and feathered down to the toes; thighs well furnished and vulture hocked; tail full and flowing; muff and whiskers around the throat. The crest is more erect than in the other varieties, and the comb is two small spikes in front of the crest. Legs whitish, and furnished PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 153 with a fifth toe. Sultans are favorite pets, and present a quaint and pleasing appearance. BLACK SPANISH The only recognized breed of Spanish at the shows is the White-Faced Black Spanish, other varieties hav- ing no settled names. The leading point of the breed is the white face, the quantity and quality of which de- termine the rank of the bird. It should be wide, deep and high, should arch at the top, coming as near as may be to the bottom of the comb; extend sideways to the ear lobes and wattles, and meet under the throat. It should also be fine and smooth. Ears white, large and pendulous; comb very large, and colored bright ver- milion; the cock’s must be perfectly upright, the hen’s falls to one side. The comb should be fine, although large, and the toothing should be very even. The cock has a very stately carriage, with protruding breast, and tail held up, but not forward. Plumage jet black, with glossy reflections; sickle feathers, fully developed and perfect. The hen is equally black, but less glossy; body heavy and plump; legs long, and blue or dark lead color. QUALITIES OF SPANISH Spanish fowls are very delicate as chicks, and at all ages are susceptible to wet weather, especially when moulting. They lay well, but are poor table birds. 154 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. WYANDOTTES An American bird of six varieties—Golden, Silver, White, Black, Buff, Columbian and Partridge. They are large, rose-combed, yellow-legged (clean) ; plumage laced or striped, except in the white, which is white all over. The Wyandotte is a very handsome and hardy bird. They lay well, grow fast, and are a good table fowl—in fact, an ideal fowl for both fancier and farmer. COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTE A new variety of Wyandotte was a few years ago placed before the poultry world. and is rapidly forging its way to the front. It is known as the Columbian Wyandotte. In plumage it is like the Light Brahma; in > shape, style of head, comb and shanks, it is purely Wyan- dotte ; and in size, activity and wonderful laying qualities, it is Leghorn. It is a most valuable combination breed. Records kept by a well known breeder, who breeds them along with other varieties, shows that the Columbians are more destined to remain in the 200-egg¢g class than any of our American breeds. As chicks and fowls they are very plump. Their breasts are round like that of a sqtab- pigeon. They are of a more nervous disposition than are any of our American breeds, in which they closely re- semble the Leghorn. As sitters and mothers they can- not be surpassed. ; ¢ ‘i < ‘ 7 k 4 INDEX. Page Age of fowl, judging .... 24 = for breeding.102 American Keds —......... 152 PRIVEOMGS, | cis's gee css vs sacs wore es 128 PONG GIGSIANS 0003. e ase os 128 PRICING (oe = oe. 5 <)0 5 s'sswinlnrs 78 Pratmal, £000). 6.5. 0e 2. 252 5 31 Apoplexy 2.2.2 -—+--<--+: 78 PREMERA! foro keer e cing somes 78 PREEOPAY: Sais So se eet = celal ee 78 Aylesbury Ducks ........- III BaNeAINS ooo c es Secs Oh sity SEO cS Games veckias cals ot 129 : Japanese: -)..c46. 1490 mt Cocchi oso. sei. 130 1 SEPM MES sa oan es 1030 ee Black and White. 131 Brausian cn acces 131 Barred Plymouth Rocks. ..152 Beginner, advice to ....... 9 lace Bantams) 66.2566 oae 131 Black: Cochins2..5 225 occ. un 137 islack. Leehoens = .o5. ae. sec 148 plaelk: Minogcas!. a3 sacs 150 BCR ARGOE ts cna cccia eae 79 Black Spanish, description.154 Black Spanish, qualities ..155 Page Brahmas, for chick stock.. 25 description of...131 ‘ MNES eas bis.x as ops 132 7m GaGle scskie ool wets 133 i: for breeding ...134 ie qualities of ..... 134 Breeding for exhibition ...I01 2 Mla vKIWNS i! 22 ose, 103 Breeds, descriptions ....... 128 Broken: Bones (ae 5 02. ona 80 PAL ONGHIES foi 2ccu) 5 oa. aiere tte 80 Hroodersy artincial sc 5). 3. ; 52 (illustration) ... 52 (cut) outdoor .. 53 (home-made) .. 54 desc., home-made 55 o fireless; <2 44.25. 57 oH running of ..... 57 Brown Leghorns ......... 148 Building the House ...... 13 Bumble-foo0t 5..5..... Reiclents 80 Cane weksons se .c5 ls kas 113 CaUKORY ye hs kek cakes RI Capons and Caponizing ... 74 Gatagrh: or Cold: oic.3 e5: 81 (CY COWS BGS a HES RUE RARER 89 156 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. Page Chicken-house. (See House) Chicken (Pox oa oh 82 Chicks, stock for raising... 25 i room required .... 25 r hatching vor 5253 45-47 i Fearing OP ees. cue 58 * feeding and food.58, 63 i Wiateriinia tere cscs 60, 64 a “Cold Mother” (cut) 65 Cholera: (ONe eee 82 Cleanliness, in house ...... 10 ee in, UNS cs 1s 21 : in brooder ... 55 Cleansing of fowls ....... 106 Clipping (wines wees nee 21 Clovervas food (ed ae 33 Cochins, description ....... 136 6é when undesirable. 24 as brood hens ... 25 crossing for table TOW le yee cee 25 ° aS. mMmobmers 102) 4. 40 a GQ Walittes: Obes as 138 Cochin or Pekin Bantams. .130 Cochins. Bult auc. ee cowae 137 cn Partridge ii. ee 137 fi White and Black.137 Cock not always needed... 23 Cockerels, separation ...... 33 ‘ caponizing ..... 74 A resemblance ...103 “Cold Mother,” description An CUt ae 4 leven 65 Colds 5 co ie ne 82 Page Columbian Wyandottes .. -154 Constipation: |.).3.. 520 83 Consumption 22.4. .2..0eee 84 CORNS 3.) .40 84 Coops for little chicks.... 61 “ (cut) barrel coop.. 60 (cut) with open shed 61 Crevecceur, description ....138 66 Crop bound )..0 eee 84 Crossing, in general........ 102 is of ‘Cochinsie) 2 25 Crows .2...0 ae go Dark Brahmas’). ease 133 Decoy ducks 3.03 S55 eee 113 Diarrhea: .3./ 500s eee 85 Diphtheria. 35. 2).a2 9 ee . 86 Disinfectants. 5. eee 82 Diseases of poultry ....... 74 Dogs) on. eo. oe eee 90 Dorkings, cross with Cochin 25 description of ..139 qualities of ....140 “> Coloredit] fame 139 . White 22a 139 Silver Gray ....140 Draughts must be avoided. Io Dressing poultry for market 73 Dropsy. ss 20h Oe eae 87 OO OL. FECES). sha een 87 Dry Feeding: 623.4 20 Ducks). c ee eee 108 COUN Ebi betedien aba ot 109, IIO 66 Indian Runner ....115 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 157 Pgge Dust bath for sitting hen.. 42 HD SCNECEY. 52:3 Sis’eic'e sie vies oe = 87 Bast Indian Ducks .......: 113 cmc cote sale bo Pe na 88 ee MOUiid Aocc..6 «6 sk os 88 ID CRE 7h 98 Eggs, fresh and stale..... 7, 40 nehow to? buy. 60/5 .5124 45 “ selecting stock ...23, 40 “ how to get in winter 26 how production is hindered) 223. 4.-).- 32 “« shell-making material 37 fo na EMenLne: 1 otra 30, 68 Pa PHAR CIRIB Se acrcte c/a iatclare 40 fy Vow. £0 {Set aes <2 5. 44 “breaking in nest .... 42 is, SRESHING) ce, scenes lo 46 fOr) danke sues ss 66 eae er Vga Coiba) aeaeenienary ee 68 “ box for shipping Geli hee aes cere 69 Embden Geese .......... 119 Pe MeTINIES ho Ht bce nn aeons 890 Exercise, importance of.... 35 Exhibition, breeding for...101 - preparing for ..106 rearing, for 22/2105 Ee hatching for ...105 Exposure, best for house.. 10 a in Shed iaae.sss 12 sé Farmer should keep poultry.7-8 Page Fattening, when to avoid.. 33 : when desirable.. 70 e process Of.) ... Jo Feather-eating ............ 08 i Pell ine Ish 98 Feathers, clipping ........ 21 n for selling pur- POSESa eas) cc 39 Feeding of adult fowls.... 27 change of food.... 29 aoe bbayss GeMb ice: oon 30 20q DIMIPROPEK safes als. 32 heey Ome AGES yrs 33 rr of sitting hen..... 44 sd Of Chicksen is 2, 58 ICHEINS: ee Le nok ee ak 21 Fireless brooder. ..:0...... 57 Floor, material and con- SEFUICHION. aes ses 14, 15,20 Boog. swarieies (222505662) 29 AOS Oils Mae Fa orh al oer ahceatecaas 28 Food, stains. 580 ioe: 28, 30 “ meal, bran, middlings 29 rapes vats pkey |e Wares oN 22, 3h we Weretable i uisucetins us 32 milk and curd 2...) 35 Pioode@clovetns. es hei .c.: ease 35 oy fon sittine hen... 4I eestor latte Chicks... 54 63 Sandor turkeys, ..28 20a. 12I LES 272 NRA So i RE ee 152 FeOst bites. 10005 el aie 90 Game fowls, description...140 ~ qualities of..143 158 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. Page Game, Black-Breasted Red.141 Brown Red ....... 142 4) DD CK WV Ame siete ahoats 141 Ho SOuientaliye passat 142 Et MONT bane wiatapael sala ae 142 Gapes:) sits a ciepejaeearscreladarclet QI Gastritis iheoae. Ace eee Q2 CSEESE Lee nemte ait ease eele 17 “Gomer tonto aie ae ae alate 78 Grain, when to feed....... 28 “" varieties’ as feed. (:. (30 Gravel: USevore yyeesenee. 15 Gray, Dorkings.4 22.20.02. 140 Gray or Toulouse Geese. .119 Green food. [Essential to Fhealth yawns cece 63 Guinea fowls (2 Noe ae 123 Eo aares as layers: 2.2). 67 description ....143 qualities of ....144 Silver Penciled.143 e Gold Penciled.144 . Gold and_ Sil- ver Spangled.144 2 White and Blackwater 144 Hampers for Shipping....107 areas cee wees wee Os Hatchers. See Incubators. 40 - Hatching, selection of eggs 40 i period of incuba- LOM ikaranoer rere 47 assisting to hatch 48 66 Page Hatching, artificial ....... 49 is for exhibition ..105 Hawks “0.000 eee = oie eR Heating of house ........ 16 Houdans as layers...... 25, 67 66 ~ cross with Cochin 25 as table fowls... 25 description ......145 66 ee qualities ....... 145 House, location-<.8 seen Q, 10 “material (ieee 10-12 ventilation ..10, 16, 17 with double run 11, 22 “constriction, tees 12 OF SIZE Uy Vie a eae 13 “. foundation(esenecae 12 POOR i ela ae 13 “ (cut of) with run. 14 ho SLO Via eee 14, 15 * heating eae 16 “ “movable#: 22) nae auas “movable (cut) .... 66 Incubation, period of...... 47 Incubators, general remarks 49 3 description .... 50 is hot air (cut). 2) 50 ie running of ... 57 Indigestion: .......5...2 sae 92 Inflammation of Egg Pass- AGE. i. dasa cee 92 Interbreeding //.... {..e eee 103 PRATTS POULTRY POINTERS. 159 Page Killing poultry for market 72 La Fleche, description..... 145 i @talities! 62 0.8.1 146 Langshans for chick stock 25 3 as layers ....: 67 &e description of..146 qualities of ...146 Laying, where fowls stop.. 24 ‘é ae pullets fOr. jb. 6 6s. 33 “best breeds ....25, 67 Leghorns, as layers ..... 24, 67 Fi CK ter ae ee. 147 5 qualities: 7... 148 Brow, sic... 147 PERU. £554 e he: 148 A cite NNR: oo OE a 147 e description of...147 ee Weakness soe s8 0. 93 CE Ree acne ia ees ee 18, 89 = head remedy for... 60 mist | Bralimas 200i 132 Wage van. Srit nf Lo. 3. 37 Liver, Congestion of...... 83 eae Swastine Ot. Seaeen. 78 ecation of house ... 20.5: 9 Malays, description ....... 148 &e qualities: .........140 Manure, care and use of.. 38 Mira kine to. oa. Ose Bees 103 st TS SO Sn a Ra Na, 2 89 Minorcas, as layers....... 67 “ce description ....140 Page Minorcas, qualities ...... 149 Muscovy - Ducks 25. tio oss 113 IMeStisn Patine Le ree cutee aay las 19 Nests: Gout) ‘Kee (222 io... 3% 20 Te Pe GARCTOR( corte fo f.e.'s 38 Or 2 EOUMTTS JOE ee perce ae 42 “i= OE! Settin@ /o5...% 3 42 Number of fowls in house Io = of hens to cock.4o, 69 @upinetons 42008 geen PS 135 PASWNe TOD wooo Se eek 93 Peastowll =e scwed eaa elects 126 Pekin or Cochin bantams. .130 Reka nducks fs seca os 114 Perches. See Roosts Rerit@aris 25 eas, 24 0. 04 Pip eORS iss he ee RN Cie eae 124 Papen. Sonate hata ee 04 Plucking of poultry........ 73 Plumage, marking of...... 103 Plymouth Rocks, for Chick Gi 0) el ane Pavan nary Pian lan eapees 25 Plymouth Rocks, as sitters.. 41 a 63 as layers.. 67 descriptionI51 qualities .151 Phetmonia 7 oi si ect