Nae tes pads Piaf Paes 22) esa Seer Fain 42s ae as Se a SAK Wat nawet es SEN hoa oget ert Tats, Srp ed é ie i ie ase sae — SS SS NS Ss fie ts ee ReMi SDA any ata, £ NEM A eet i, ey; est: SR UE se We es bead Set atespe te Des % DERI t 59 * ee eat Sal sh Pape ea ie i Liteon Derinesti ieee Sant Ee Seer ees eR a : eee ce hee: tvs. i: Sern Pa Raee Py $ i £ é Serseaeheats % Byte sonek ts ve arts Sebeatt 1 oe Poe Hint a ifs Mes S BAU O34 Bit Xt i Sane FE / / - L a ee } PRELIMINARY REPORT 7 ) PM / OF THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF WYOMING, AND PORTIONS OF CONTIGUOUS TERRITORIES, (BEING A SECOND ANNUAL REPORT OF PROGRESS.) CONDUCTED UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, BY 1 eV SE A EN UNITED STATES GEOLOGIST. / WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1872. LETTER TO THE SECRETARY. ? WASHINGTON, January 1, 1871. Srr: In accordance with your instructions dated July 15, 1870, I have the honor to present the* second annual report of progress of the United States geological survey of the Territories, conducted under your direction during the present season. In the field work I have been guided by the following directions, con- tained in your letter of instructions: / “The area of your exploration must necessarily be discretionary to some extent; but owing to the lateness of the season and the limited time for iguana it is thought advisable by this Department that the field of your labor be confined principally to Wyoming and sueh portions of contiguous territories as may be deemed desirable. You will be re- quired to secure as full material as possible for the illustration of your final report, such as sketches, photographs, &c. It is desirable that your collections in all departments should be as complete as possible, and you will forward them to the Smithsonian Institution, to be classified and arranged according to law. You will be expected to prepare a pre- liminary report of your labors, which will be ready for publication by January 1, 1871. You are referred to your instructions of last season for the details of your duties in the field.” The bill making the appropriation for the survey was not signed by the President until the 15th of July, and immediately thereafter I pro- ceeded to Cheyenne, Wromine Territory, in accordance with the above instructions. My party was organized as follows: James Stevenson, managing director; Henry W. Elliott, artist; Prof. Cyrus Thomas, agriculturist ; Wm. H. Jackson, photographer; John H. Beaman, meteorologist; Charles 8. Turnbull, secretary; Arthur L. Ford, mineralogist; C. P. Carrington, zodlogist; Henry D. Schmidt, naturalist; L. A. Bartlett, general assistant. Mr. 8S. R. Gifford, land- scape artist, of New York City, accompanied the party as guest from Cheyenne to Fort Bridger. My employés were, one wagon-master, four teamsters, and three cooks and laborers. At Fort Fetterman I employed an old mountaineer as guide and interpreter, through that portion of the country supposed to be infested with hostile Indians. *This is really a fourth annual report of progress of the United States geological survey of the Territories. The first and second annual reports will be found incor- porated in the reports of the Commissioner of the General Land Office for the years 1867 and 1868. The thrd is the report of the survey of Colorado and New Mexico, published last winter. 4. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. The greater part of our outfit was obtained at Cheyenne. Through the generous kindness of the depot quartermaster at Fort Russell, Colonel C. A. Reynolds, we were enabled to start on our journey, fully equipped, — August 6th, The previous year our course had been southward from this point, along the eastern base of the mountains to Santa Fé, in order to study the fine exposures of the rocks of different ages, as they were lifted up by the elevation of the mountain chains. In order that the labors of the two seasons might he connected together, it seemed best to proceed northward along the eastern base of the Laramie range, by way of Chugwater Creek, Laramie Peak, North Platte, Sweetwater, and South Pass. The country along the immediate line of our route was — examined with as much care as possible, and frequent excursions were made up the valleys of the little streams to their sources in the mount- ains, thus obtaining cross-sections from the central nucleus of the mount- ain ranges extending into the plains. In this way we explored the North Platte and its numerous branches to the Red Buttes; thence we struck across the divide to the valley of the Sweetwater; thence up that stream to its source in the Wind River Mountains. The geological structure of the Sweetwater Valley, although simple, was very interest- ing, and afforded ample scope for the imagination in reconstructing the numerous phases which it has assumed in past ages. We gave a hasty glance at the Sweetwater mines and the southern portion of the Wind River Mountains, and passed down the Big and Little Sandy Creeks to Green River, and thence by way of Church Buttes to Fort Bridger. Here we established a permanent camp for about twenty days, made numerous side excursions up the Bear River, Muddy Creek, Black’s Fork, and Smith’s Fork, thus exploring, with considerable care, the northern slope of the Uinta Mountains. This range is one of wonderful beauty, a unique creation, without a parallel in the West, so far as I have yet seen. From ‘Fort Bridger we proceeded southward to Henry’s Fork, explored that stream to its source in the axis of the Uintas, then descended its valley to Green River, explored the latter stream to Brown’s Hole, and then returned up the river to the Union Pacific Railroad. The scenery and geology of this region are grand and instructive in the highest degree. From Green River Station we followed the old stage road up Bitter Creek, via Bridger’s Pass, Medicine Bow Mountains, across the Laramie Plains, through the Laramie range, by way of Chey- enne Pass, to our point of departure, where we arrived about the 1st of November. Here the party was broken up, most of its members returning to their homes. A portion of the month of November was occupied in studying the more interesting geological features along the line of the Union Pacific Railroad from Cheyenne to Salt Lake Valley. Mr. Elliott constructed an excellent pictorial section of the entire road, bringing out all the surface features with remarkable clearness and beauty. In addition to hundreds of local sketches and sections, Mr. Elliott has de- lineated three continuous pictorial sections across the territory of Wyo- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 5 ming which, if properly engraved, will form a new era in the exhibition of structural geology. The collections in geology and natural history . were very large, and many new forms, recent as well as fossil, were added to science. Some idea of the extent of the collections may be obtained from the catalogues which are appended to thisreport. I take pleasure in acknowledging the great fidelity of all my assistants to the interests of the survey, and their efficient aid throughout the entire trip. My principal assistant, and associate for many years on the plains, Mr. James Stevenson, rendered me the same faithful and indispensable ser- vices that have characterized his labors in previous expeditions. Mr. Elliott, the artist, worked with untiring zeal, and his sketches and see- tions have never been surpassed for beauty or clearness in any country. The valuable report of Prof. Thomas will furnish ample proof of his constant fidelity to his duties. -I regard his report as of great practi- cal interest to the country. Mr. William H. Jackson performed his duties throughout the entire trip with a true enthusiasm for his art, and the result is about 400 nega- tives that have hardly been surpassed for beauty or perfection. These pictures throw great light on the singular geographical and geological features of the West, and are, in my opinion, a real contribution to science as well as to landscape photography. Mr. Gifford, although accompanying the party by invitation for the purpose of studying the grand scenery of the Rocky Mountains in an artistic sense, rendered us most efficient aid, and by his genial nature endeared himself to all. To Mr. Beaman was assigned the duty of meteorologist, and his report on the subject, herewith appended, will show his zeal inythe work. The elevations, though only approximately true, must be regarded as of great value, extending as they do over a country in which very few observations had previously been made. For alarge part of the season we followed the old routes of Frémont and Stansbury, and in our examinations we found their reports of great service. So far as the general geographical features of the country are concerned, and the leading facts useful to the emigrant, we found them to be remarkably accurate, and I take pleasure in bearing my hearty testimony to the zeal and ability of these eminent explorers. So far, however, as the geological structure of the country is concerned, but little of a definite character can be found in their reports. In my report of last year I spoke of the great value of the assistance rendered me by the military authorities of the West. I take pleasure in again thanking them for still more valuable kindnesses the present sea- son. Before leaving Washington I called upon the honorable Secretary of War, General Belknap, with a letter from the Secretary of the In- terior, requesting such assistance from the military authorities of the West as could be afforded me without detriment to the service. The Secretary of War at once issued orders in accordance with this request, 6 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. which were distributed to the different military posts of the West. These orders were indorsed by General Meigs and General Eaton at Washington, by General Sheridan at Chicago, and by General George D. Ruggles, in the absence of General Augur, at Omaha. My outfit was obtained of Colonel C. A. Reynolds, depot quartermas- ter, stationed at Fort Russell, and most cordially do I thank him for the friendly interest he took in our welfare. The outfit we obtained here could not have been purchased in the country, however large our appro- priation; and besides the great saving to the appropriation, the real interest that both he and his subordinates manifested in providing everything for our comfort and success, called forth the gratitude of the whole party. At every military post we visited we were received with great attention, and the numerous favors, so indispensable in the performance of our duties, were granted us everywhere. In this connection, in addition to those already referred to, Imay more especially mention Colonel Chambers, in command of Fort Fetterman, and Lieu- tenant O’Brien, quartermaster, Captain Gordon and Lieutenant Gregg, of Camp Stambaugh, Lieutenant Shepard, of Fort Bridger, Colonel Bradley, of Fort Steele, and Lieutenant Bubb, of Fort Sanders. Although the appropriation for the exploration of the year 1870 was very liberal compared with those of former years, I did not feel war- ranted in employing a topographer, and therefore was able to contribute little of importance toward the improvement of our maps. The maps already constructed by the Engineer Bureau of the Army are undoubt- edly the best of any published in America, but in attempting to express the geology of the mountain districts of the West upon them, they are found to be quite inadequate. It has already been shown by the ablest geographers in the Old World, that any topographical map that is not constructed in accordance with well-established laws of geological strue- ture, must be of approximate value only. It is proposed to prepare a map of the districts explored, on a scale of two miles to the inch, not only to express the details of the geology with suitable colors, but also to show, for the benefit of our legislators, the amount of land that can be redeemed by irrigation, timber land, bottom land, &c. Such a map would be of great importance in determining the value of land grants to railroads and other corporations, and would save to our Government many times the cost of the entire survey. My explorations of the country west of the Mississippi began in the spring of 1853, prior to the organization of Kansas and Nebraska as ‘Territories, and I have watched the growth of this portion of the West _year by year, from the first rude cabin of the squatter to the beautiful villages and cities which we now see scattered so thickly over that country. We have beheld, within the past fifteen years, a rapidity of -growth and development in the Northwest which is without a parallel in ‘the history of the globe. Never has my faith in the grand future that awaits the entire West been so strong as it is at the present time, and lord GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ( it is my earnest desire to devote the remainder of the working days of my life to the development of its scientific and material interests, until I shall see every Territory, which is now organized, a State in the Union. . Out of the portions of the continent which lie to the northward and southward of the great central mass, other Territories will, in the mean time, be carved, until we shall embrace within our limits the entire country from the Arctic Circle to the Isthmus of Darien. Tt will not be possible for me in this report to give full credit to all for the numerous favors and courtesies which have been extended to my party, not only during the present season, but for the many years ' of the past that I have been exploring the West. Many of them were indispensable to my success, and a great source of saving in the expendi- ture of my limited appropriations. I take this occasion to state that every favor extended to myself or my party by the citizens of the coun- try, by the military authorities, or by railroad corporations, has been in the past and will be in the future credited to the cause which I have endeavored toadvance. Every dollar that could besaved Ihave regarded as So much power given me to place before the world in a proper light the magnificent resources, scientific and practical, of our vast domain in the West. To Hon. Leland Stanford, C. P. Huntington, and Charles Crocker, of the Central Pacific Road: to Hon. John D. Perry and Gen- eral A. Anderson, of the psn Pacific Railway; and to Gen- eral John Pierce and Colonel Fisher, of the Denver Pacific Railroad, I would tender my grateful thanks for the generous manner in which most important favors were extended to me and to my party, thereby saving hundreds of dollars to the Government. To the officers of the Union Pacific Railroad, in years past, I have been greatly indebted for free transportation and other courtesies. From General G. M. Dodge, of Council Bluffs, to whom the West is indebted for its material advancement as much as to any one living man, I have - always received the warmest sympathy and aid. I have also e thank Dr. T. ©. Durant and Webster Snyder, former superintendent of the road, for marked courtesies in the line of my scientific investigations. Scientific men who are truly devoted to their calling cannot be specu- lators or ardently given to pecuniary gains. Citizens of the country and great corporations must ever be largely the recipients of the mate- rial benefits of these labors. Generosity on the part of such corpora- tions toward men who are devoted to the advancement of knowledge or the good of the world, may be regarded as the index of their tone and character. Iam glad ‘to say that, with comparatively few exceptions, I have received from the railroad men of the West every mark of ap- preciation I could desire. In former reports I have frequently men- tioned the cordial sympathy of the citizens of the Territories in my labors. Iam obliged to speak the truth as I read it in the great book of nature, whether it is in accordance with the preconceived notions of 8 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the inhabitants of a district or not, and I cannot depart from this inex- - orable law for fear or favor. It is my earnest wish at all times to report that which will be most pleasing to the people of the West, providing there is any foundation for it in nature. When I cannot do so, I shall wait for time to place me right in their estimation. To Dr. G. L. Miller, editor of the Omaha Herald, and Captain William Wilcox and William Stephens, of the firm of Stephens & Wilcox, Omaha, Colonel I. W. French, of Cheyenne, and Miers Fisher, of Denver, Colo- rado, my entire party have been indebted, from time to time, for material favors of great value. My thanks are also due to Hon. 8. F. Nuckolls, of Cheyenne, Dr. Hiram Latham, of Laramie City, J. W. Watson, of ° Georgetown, D. C. Collier, of Central City, and J. M. Marshall, of Black Hawk, Colorado. The gentlemen connected with the press of the whole West, with very few exceptions, have always given me the most hearty sympathy and assistance in all my labors, and to them I extend my cordial thanks. I have thought it best to make these preliminary reports the vehicle of much detailed matter which L believe to be useful, upon which I shall hereafter base many generalizations, but which cannot be repeated in a more elaborate final report. The object of these reports seems to me to be to bring before the people at as early a date as possible immediate practical results. I have also endeavored to render them as free from technical language as possible consistent with scientific accuracy. By the hundreds of thoughtful minds all over our country the essays of Leidy, Cope, Lesquereux, Hodge, and Newberry will be read with deep interest. If this report is not as complete as could be desired, I would respect- fully direct your attention to the fact that the entire exploration has been made and the report submitted to you in a little less than six months from the date of the passage of the bill authorizing it. It is my hope to be able to continue these reports from year to year, and to make them more complete and more useful to science and to the country. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, FF. V. HAYDEN, United States Geologist. Hon. COLUMBUS DELANO, Secretary of the Interior. CAO Sys ay = REPORT OF F. V. HAYDEN. CHAPTER— I. FROM CHEYENNE TO FORT FETTERMAN. IJ. FROM FORT FETTERMAN TO SOUTH PASS. Il]. FROM SOUTH PASS TO FORT BRIDGER. IV. FORT BRIDGER AND THE UINTA MOUNTAINS. VY. FROM FORT BRIDGER TO UINTA MOUNTAINS, HENRY’S FORK, GREEN RIVER, AND BROWN’S HOLE TO GREEN RIVER STATION ON THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD. VI. FROM GREEN RIVER STATION, via BRIDGER’S PASS, TO CHEYENNE, WYOMING TERRITORY: ot GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. CHAPTER I. FROM CHEYENNE TO FORT FETTERMAN. During the summer of 1869 my explorations were directed southward from Fort D. A. Russell, near Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory, along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, through Colorado into New Mex- ico, as far as the Placier Mountains. In order that I might trace the different geological formations northward in their geographical exten- sion and connect the results of the two seasons’ examinations, I thought it best to commence the labors of the present year at the same point and proceed northward, by way of Laramie Peak and South Pass. Fort D. A. Russell is located on the north bank of Crow Creek, a small tributary of the South Platte. The rocks which underlie the country in every direction are evidently of modern date, and belong to the upper tertiary. They are cut through by the little streams, and we find ex- posed a moderately thick deposit of gravel and boulders resting upon an irregular surface of the indurated marls, sands, and clays of the lake sediments. This.is the case in the valley of Crow Creek near the fort, where the vertical bluffs are formed of aluminous marl, with a greater or less admixture of sand. There are also layers of fine indurated sand- stone, with small cavities filled with clay and irregular seams of whitish silicious material scattered through all the beds. Near the base of the mountains are small fragments of feldspar. Resting upon what ap- pear to be true tertiary strata are beds of greater or less thickness, composed of sand, gravel, and water-worn boulders, passing up into two to four feet of unstratified marl, with a foot or so of soil. Our course from Cheyenne was directly north along the military wagon-road to Fort Laramie, and our first camp was on Lodge Pole Creek. The surface of the country is beautifully undulating, consisting of rounded hills, ridges, and valleys; but not a tree or bush is to be seen. The same formations occur on Lodge Pole Creek that are noted above on Crow Creek. The strata are the same on all the branches from the foot of the mountains to the North Platte. Horse Creek and its branches are nearly desti- tute of trees of any kind, and the water is so low that it can hardly be called a running stream; still the soil is good, the bottoms quite broad, and grass fine. For pastoral purposes this valley is very de- sirable. In order that we may study the geological structure of the country with success we must travel along the base of the mountains, where the different strata are exposed by the elevation of the mountain ranges. ‘To explore the more mountainous portions, we must travel on horseback, and make the road in the plains, which our wagons must adhere to, our base of operations. We can thus make side trips with pack animals to any portion of the country, however rugged the surface, if it presents any objects of interest. August 7.—This morning the train proceeded across the plains north- ward to the Chugwater, a distance of about thirty-five miles. With Mr. Gifford and four or five assistants I followed the valley of Lodge Pole Creek to the foot of the mountains, about sixteen miles distant. The surface of the country was undulating and covered with afair growth 12 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. of grass; here and there in the valley of the creek, or some side ravine, the rocks are exposed, revealing their age to be upper tertiary. Cream-col- ored marls and sometimes deep, ferruginous sands are seen, but the pre- © vailing color of the rock material is light drab-yellow. The valley of the Lodge Pole Creek will average about six miles in width from bluff to . bluff. The surface of the highlands is covered to a greater or less ex- tent with gravel and stray boulders of moderate size, varying from that of a pin’s head to a foot in diameter. Masses of carboniferous lime- stone are yery abundant, showing that these beds were very accessible to the waters durmg the later drift period. Some of these limestone masses are quite full of fossils, as crinoidal stems, Athyris subtilita, Orthis, and Chonetes. A careful examination of the stray boulders seat- tered upon the plains will enable one to determine with a great degree of certainty what formations are revealed along the flanks of the moun- tains. I take the position that these superficial deposits are the result of forces acting from the mountains toward the plains, and that in sweep- ing down from the flanks across the upturned edges of the beds -of different geological periods, as there exposed, they carry portions of each formation with them, and strew them over the plains. Wherever a form- ation is well developed and exposed, there the more fragments of it will predominate. When the red sandstones are largely exposed, then the drift will be filled with fragments of red sandstone, and the same is in- variably the case with the carboniferous strata. The Laramie Mountains, or Black Hills, as they are usually called, form one of the shore lines of a great fresh-water lake, which covered an enormous area on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains during the middle and upper tertiary epoch. When the waters were drained away from this lake basin, a vast thickness of clays, marls, sands, and sandstones was left high on the sides of the mountains, sometimes reaching nearly to the crest or divide. In many localities the beds have not been subjected to as much denudation as in others, and in that case they jut up against the mountain sides so as to conceal all the older un- changed strata, and not unfrequently concealitig the metamorphic rocks over large areas. Along the immediate line of the Union Pacific Railroad, the tertiary beds form a sort of bench, which rises gradually from Cheyenne neatly to Granite Station. The tertiary beds are stripped off only to a moderate extent, revealing a bed or two of carboniferous limestone. A vertical section would show the upper tertiary deposits resting directly, though unconformably, on the carboniferous limestones, and the latter lying on the granites. But on either side, north or south, not only the car- boniferous rocks are exposed, but the red beds and, perhaps, the triassic or cretaceous. All along the flanks ofthe mountains, from Granite Caton Station northward to the northern boundary of this lake basin, we know thatformations of the ageof carboniferous, triassic, Jurassic, cretaceous, and perhaps lignite tertiary, exist, whether exposed by the denudation of the White River tertiary beds or not. It is proper, therefore, to color all these formations on a geological map by bands or zones along the sides of mountain ranges. Though if a map were constructed on a large scale and the geology colored in detail upon it, these bands would be some- what interrupted here and there by the concealment of one or more of the formations, by modern tertiary, or drift deposits. The valleys or the little streams, as they extend down into the plains from the moun- tains, are usually quite rugged at first, but become less so until the sides are rounded and grass-covered. But along the immediate base of the mountains there is often a valley at right angles to the valleys of the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 13 streams and parallel with the mountain ranges, and evidently scooped out by forces acting from them. . From the head of Crow Creek to the Chugwater, there is a well-marked illustration of this type of valley. It averages from five to ten miles in width, and the surface is gently rolling, and usually covered with grass. The little streams as they pass across it do not cut deep channels. The eastern side is a high, abrupt, irreeular wall of White River tertiary beds, oftentimes so eroded as to present in some degree the architectural appearance of the “bad lands.” Through this wall the little streams have cut their channels, and flow down through the plains in valleys with more or less bluff-like hills on either side, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height. Where these parallel valleys occur at the foot of the mountains, the changed as well as unchanged rocks have suffered great erosion. Here and there they are omitted for some reason, and again appear in their - full proportions. Immediately north of Horse Creek there is a remnant of the main “hog-back,” or ridge remaining, composed of the triassic and carboniferous beds, extending for about five miles, which is divided into three parts by the channels of streams flowing through it at right angles from the mountains. Its trend is nearly north and south, and its dip east; and immediately west the granites and gneiss rise gradually toward the crest of the range. This fragment of the main ridge shows that but for erosion it would have been continuous all along the flanks of the mountains. ; An interesting question arises as to the manner in which these parailel valleys have been scooped out. That it must have occurred after the deposition of the latest tertiary beds is evident, from the fact that the streams which form the outlets have cut their way through them. As I have before stated, the mountains formed the western shore of the great fresh-water lakes of the middle and upper tertiary periods. As the mountains were slowly elevated, so that the waters receded, there was a depression at the immediate base of the mountains, of greater or less depth, that received the drainage. The water-course would be gradually formed for the principal streams and their branches. The waters in the parallel valleys formed a sort of lake-like expansion of the little streams, and the waters of the lake performed their work of erosion at the same time that the streams wore their channels through the plains. It is probable that since the close of ‘the tertiary period, and the commencement of the present era, the climate of the west has been much colder; that ice and snow accumulated on the mountain ranges in vast quantities; and that the quantity of water to produce the results which we find indicated by erosion and in the drift was far greater than at present. It may be thatice was not the most important agency, and though the evidence is clear that it performed an active part, yet water was the principal agent, and the present existence of an occasional moderate-sized boulder in the plains, too large to be trans- ported by water alone, indicates that an iceberg was now and then drifted out on thé waters to the plains. The grooves, scratches, and smooth sides of the mountain valleys in Colorado and other portions ot the Rocky Mountains point to the same conclusion. From Horse Creek we proceeded northward to the Chugwater, nine miles distant. The road is a perfectly smooth one for wagons. On our right are continuous walls of White River tertiary, pierced here and there by some little branch. On the left the granite rocks are seen in long, irregular ranges, rising very, gradually nearly to the summit. The un- changed beds seem to have been worn away to the level of the valley and the edges covered with a deposit of drift. Here and there, however, they 14 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. are exposed from beneath the White River beds and the cretaceous strata, with the usual ferruginous concretionary masses, which have fallen in pieces; and from these latter have fallen out very good speci- mens of Baculites ovatus and Inoceramus. Near the sources of the Chugwater are some very rich iron mines, which may prove of great value to the country in the future. The fact of their existence has been known for some years, but no definite knowledge of them has been given to the world. In Stansbury’s Report, page 2 266, there is the following paragraph: ‘In the bed of the Chug- water, and on the sides of the adjacent hills, were found immense num- bers of rounded black nodules of magnetic iron ore, which seemed of unusual richness.” In the winter of 1859-’60, while attached to the exploring expedition of General W. F. Raynolds, I made a trip to the sources of the Chugwater, and found great numbers of these worn masses of iron ore; but not until a comparatively recent period were they traced to their souree in the mountains. During the construction of the Union Pacific Railroad some of the engineers visited the mines and spoke of their future value. In the summer of 1868 I had an op- portunity of examining this region in company with Dr. Latham and Judge Whitehead, of Wyoming, and found the mines much richer and more extensive than had previously been supposed. Wecommenced our examinations in the valleys of the smaller branches of the “Chug” as they emerge from the mountains, and found that the stray masses of iron ore were confined to one of them. Following the branch up into the range we soon came to the ore beds themselves, which we found to be interstratified among the red feldspathic granites which compose— the nucleus of the range. The ore beds incline in the same direction _ with the granites, and have the same joints and cleavage, and the ex- amples of slicken-sides are numerous. They are not continuous, and are confined to a restricted area, yet Mr. Whitehead traced one of the beds a distance of over one and a half miles. The ore is located much like that in the Lake Superior region, and is probably of the age of the Laurentian rocks of Canada. The quantity of ore in this locality appears to be unlimited. Thousands of tons have been washed down into the valley of the “‘Chug” and distributed among the superficial drift. As we leave the ore beds themselves these stray masses are larger and more angular, and as we pass down the “Chug” they dwindle to minute pebbles and disappear. Mr. J. P. Carson, of New York, an assistant in the survey of 1868, made the following analysis of this ore, at the school of mines, Columbia College: SESOUMOXG ME OL ICOM: Sciuye cereal he 2 orn = eae eat ben pe 45.03 HBO LOMO C eee oie a ope een vs reac baple fayette eae ee 17.96 SURG 5) SVB Semel nh Ba lle ANN ch MAO a « biesay tit ee gre eee 0.76 MIMATU CMCLON aoe eof eye yes icte Bemis Ns cae are ea yaet er Ral 23.49 81S TITTLE Wee ee ns, ORY ein et are Vat ES NE SY Ss 3.98 SesqMloxtGe Ob Chromium esse los eee ieee seek a 2.45 Sesquioxideot manganese... 5-07. 2 js2-- ae Bie 66 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. clear, well-marked exhibitions of the trap protrusions, and they deserved a much longer study than I could give them. I believe that this igne- ous material was protruded among “the quartz beds prior to their - up- heaval. At the entrance of Red “Cation Creek from Brown’s Hole the elevation is 5,897 feet, and very nearly the highest point of the range was | 8,073 feet, and the bottom of Green River, about ten miles below, was 5, 175 feet's so that by these elevations we may estimate approximately the heights of these mountains above the surrounding country. AS we emerged from the Red Creek Cafion, we came out into a sort of semicireular area, occupied by yellow-brown clays, the same as those occurring in a similar locality at the mouth of Henry’s Fork. The north- east side of this quartz range is very abrupt, and no rocks appear to be exposed between the quartz rocks aad the erétaceous. Red Creek runs through the widest portion of this semicircular area, about two miles on the south side. The ridges of cretaceous and tertiary soon close up against the sides of the mountains, and about four miles up a litle branch of Red Creek, which flows parallel with the range between the ridges, the same beds jut up against the range in the same manner. The southeast wall of this semicircle is formed by a massive bed of tertiary (lower) sandstones, one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet thiek, south of the Red Creek, dipping about 10°. The soft clays are shown under the sandstones for thirty to fifty feet in thickness. As far as the eye could reach from the summit of the highest moun- tains these ridges of tertiary extend off ridge after ridge, each one inclining at a moderate angle, and having an open valley or space between, which seems to be composed of soft beds. We have, therefore, the cretaceous clays occupying the first open semicircular space; this is walled in by a ridge of lower tertiary sandstone one hundred aud fifty to two hundred feet, inclining northeast 10° to 15°; then an interval of a quarter of a mile, which is occupied by variegated clays, with thin layers of soft sandstone. The whole weathers smoothly and is covered with grass. The next ridge is composed of sandstones, pudding-stones, and conglomerates, rising two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet, inclining 10°. The rocks of this ridge have a reddish tinge and remind one of the conglomerates and sandstones of Echo Catton. I find it difficult to account for this tremendous development of quartz with gneiss at the eastern end of the Uinta range. The white quartz . beds rise abruptly from beneath the red quartzites, occupying a belt five to nine miles in width, and end as abruptly as they commence. I do not know why they should appear at this locality, when further to the west, at the sources of Black’s Fork and Bear River, where the rocks rise to an elevation of over 13,000 feet, no trace of them can be seen. Here the red quartzites and the ‘white quartz beds seem to conform, and on the side fronting Brown’s Hole the red quartzites present an enorm- ous thickness. On the summit, toward the outer portion of the white quartz belt, there is only a thin remnant remaining. I could not spare the time to study this portion of the range to my satisfaction, but Iam inclined to believe that the immense thickness of quartz was thrust up beneath the red quartzites, carrying the latter so high up that they have been swept away by erosion, except the remnant now remaining. When we passed over the high ridges on our way to Brown’s Hole from Henry’s Fork we spoke of a high carboniferous limestone ridge on our left or north side. ‘This extends down the river about five miles and juts up against the quartz ridges and disappears. Below this point there is a space of ten miles or more, where all the formations from the cretaceous to the Guantaites, inclusive, seem to have been swept GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 67 away, and as I have previously stated, the eretaceous clays jut up against the sides of the quartz ridges. The geology of this portion of the Uinta range is very complicated and intere sting. To have solved the problem to my entire satisfaction would have required a week or two. To understand the whole structure clearly my examinations should have been extended to Bear River and beyond. J have no doubt that after a little interval these quartz ridges connect with the range of mountains south of the Vermillion Creek. Green River cutsa channel through the eastern end of the Uinta Moun- ee diagonally. At the upper end the unchanged rocks only lie on the east side of the river, but before reaching Brown’s Hole the river a through the great thickness of the red quartzites. We thus have here most interesting semi-quaquaversal, on a large scale, including within it several smaller ones. South of Henry’s Fork, and east of Green River, the principal ridges incline to the northwest. They gradually flex around until at Red Creek they dip to the northeast, thus forming nearly a semicircle from west to east by way of north. Red Creek passes directly through one small semicircle or semi-qua- quaversal, the general dip of which is northeast. Hach end bends around so as to jut up against the mountains. At the head of the little branch that flows into Red Creek from the north, between the massive ridges of brown tertiary sandstones and the quartz beds, thereis a singular feature, which is an apparent non-conformity—fer about four miles up the stream, on the left or east side rising at first one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, and dipping about 10°. As we approach the head of the bench, this ridge slopes down to the valley and apparently passes beneath the softer beds. At this point commences a series of nearly vertical ridges trending to northwest, and growing thicker and thicker until the lower and middle tertiary ridges are included. The distance between the northern end of the ridge, dipping 10°, and the south end of the same ridge, holding a vertical position, and in some cases passing a vertical 10°, is not more than one hundred yards. There is a similar illustration about five miles up the valley of Henry’s Fork. On the north side of the Creek the beds dip at a small angle. while on the opposite side they extend up to the westward, inclining at an angle of 60° to 75°. On the highridges at the head of the little branch of Red Creek, I found in arusty sandstone impressions of deciduous leaves, among them a Plata- nus; also a species of poplar, and a Sabal, the same species probably which occurs in the coal-bearing beds near Point of Rocks, on the Union Pacific Railroad. There are also some thin seams of coal here, but the indications of coal are nowhere very marked in the vicinity of this por- tion of Green River. On the east side* of Green River, opposite the mouth of Henry’s Fork, there is another fine example of a series of semi- circular ridges on asmall scale. At this point all the formations from the quartzite nucleus of the Uinta rang ge, far to the northward until the middle tertiary beds become horizontal, follow each other in perfect order of sequence. The angle of inclination varies much, but the change is so gradual, and the ridges follow each other with such regularity, that no want of conformity can be detected. The geological structure of this portion of the Green River country is very complicated, but interest- ing. J have already shown that members of all the formations of the geological scale, known to exist in this portion of the West, are largely developed here; that the erosion has been so slight, compar atively, that they are all turned up to the scrutiny of the geologist. Before leaving this portion of the country I will say a word in regard to its ‘supposed mineral resources. So far as the physi 68 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. cal evidence is concerned the practical miner would pronounce the quartz range of Green River one of the richest localities for gold and silver in the West. About a year ago a large number of men prospected it with the usual enthusiasm, but most of them returned disappointed. At the present time a few miners are exploring the range near Vermillion Creek with some success. The following lodes have been located near Vermillion Creek, in what is called the Brown’s Hole district: 1. “Lone Star Lode,” twenty-five feet wide. Both walls composed of gneiss. Dip 75°, strike north of west, or nearly northwest and south- east. 2. “Bull of the Woods.” South wall well defined. Crevice. twelve inches wide on the surface, increasing to three feet as the shaft was sunk twenty feet. 3. ‘‘ Miner’s Glory.” Neither wall known. Crevice six feet wide at present. 4. ‘Green Oil Lode.” South wall well defined, six feet wide. An analysis of some of the ore from one of the lodes showed the existence of $12 in silver, and $1 50 in gold. That there is enough of the precious metals here to attract the miners for a time, there seems to be no doubt; but my impression is that they will never prove rich enough to reward the expenditure of much labor or capital. Still, only the most superficial examinations have been made up to this time, and the future may show richer developments. Although the tertiary beds are so well exposed in the vicinity of this portion of Green River, there are very few indications of coal, and these are quite obscure. Ona branch of Red Creek are two or three seams of dark clay or carbonaceous shale, which might lead to thin beds of coal, but no marked signs, as are seen along the railroad at Rock Springs, Point of Rocks, &e. October 11.—We left Henry’s Fork for Green River Station, on the Union Pacific Railread. It had been our intention to cross the country on the east side of Green River to the head of Bitter Creek, but the reports of its extreme ruggedness and the lateness of the season prevented us. We concluded that it would be safer to take our teams over a well-trav- eled road, on the west side of Green River, which led us to the old stage road near Bryan. As we ascend the hills on the west side of Green River from our camp on Henry’s Fork, we pass over the outcropping edges of the tertiary beds, forming a splendid section. The lower hills, which rise in terraces and are underlaid with dark brown clays, I believe to be of upper cretaceous age, though I was unable to find asingle fossil in them. This opinion is strengthened by the fact that the first upheaved ridges south of Henry’s Fork, which must lie geologically directly under these clays, is plainly lower cretaceous. ‘The first hard bed above the creta- ceous clays is a rusty yellow sandstone, then comes aseries of alternate beds of drab-brown indurated clay, with thin beds of rusty-brown sand- stone; some of the rocks slightly calcareous, inclining at an angle of 60° to 75°, and extending across Green River, with a trend east and west. The sandstonesvary in thickness from a few inches to several feet, while the clays vary from a few feet to fifty or one hundred feet in thick- ness. Then come beds of massive sandstones, reddish-gray, with seams of clay between, one hundred and fifty feet thick; then a light-gray, fine- grained, massive sandstone, weathering by exfoliation—fifty feet; then a harder bed of iron-rust-yellow sandstone, projecting above the other rocks, with a tendency to a coneretionary structure, and weathering into grotesque forms—with cavities one hundred feet; then a series of thin beds of yellow drab sandstones, with a reddish layer, with partings of clay. These sandstones, as they stretch across the country, present a marked banded appearance. All these beds incline at various angles at different localities. Here they are nearly vertical, but on the east GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 69 side of Green River the same beds incline at an angle of 15° to 209. The series of beds above described are plainly lower tertiary, and are separated from a succeeding series by a valley about one-fourth of a mile in width. On the border of this valley, some of the upper beds of this first series incline past a perpendicular 45°. This excessive dip is not uncommon among ail the stratified rocks in the vicinity of the moun- tainranges, but I suspect it is confined to the surface, and that some dis- tance in ‘the earth the beds have their normal dip. it was unable to find any fossils in this series of beds, nor any indications of coal. Crossing the valley we come to a second series of variegated sandstones, mostly yel- low and rusty brown, standing nearly vertical with the same strike as the first series, and about five iniles up Henry’s Fork. This interesting valley is filled up with beds which show a perfect conforinity. The fir st bed is a yellow-brown, rather fine-grained sandstone, dipping 75°, a lit- tie west of north. Then comes a series of yellow and light-gray arena: ceous or marly clays, with beds of yellow-brown and light-¢ gray sand- stones projecting somewhat above the surface. Alternating with these layers of sandstone, are quite thick beds of pudding-stone and congiom- erate, composed of rounded pebbles:of all the older formations. But what surprised me most were the large masses of purplish sandstones and quartzites, and the carboniferous limestones, sometimes forming the greater portion of thick beds of the conglomerate, four feet in diameter, somewhat worn, evidently derived from the nucleus. of the Uinta Mountains. These conglomerate beds are interealated among the sand- stones through three hundred or four hundred feet in thickness, and are probably of upper eocene age. Abovethem are atleast five hundred feet of sandstones, which have a diminished dip 20° to 36°, and then pass up into the calcareous layers of the middle tertiary or Green River ‘group. We thus see that the aqueous forces that deposited the sedi- ments of the upper eocene beds were brought to bear on the summits of the Uintas, and we can form some conception of the vast period of time they have been subjected to erosion. Since that time all the mid- dle and tertiary beds, comprising many thousands of feet of strata, have been deposited in this region. At the base of this second series of sand- stones is a thin bed of carbonaceous clay, and above and below it are layers of sandstone a foot thick or more, composed almost wholly of Melanias, Paludinas, and Unios, with some reptilian remains. We thus reach a point downward where we can decide that the waters in which these sediments were deposited were purely fresh-water. Green River flows between high vertical walls of these beds, and the opportunity to follow them, step by step in their order of sequence, is excellent. We pass gradually up to the Green River beds, where lime forms a large constituent. About two miles north of Henry’s Fork the strata become nearly horizontal, and continue so far up Caren River toward its source. AS we pass over the uplands on our way northward toward the railroad, we have on our left hand or west side a Jong, high, broken ridge of the brown indurated clays of the Bridger group, three hundred to four hun- dred feet high, which seems at the “present time to form the eastern limit of this group.. That it continued eastward at one time, perhaps far across Green River, I have no doubt, because remnants of it are seen high up near the banks of Green River; and on the Big and Little Sandy Creeks, which rise in the Wind River ] "Mountains, are quite extensive develop- ments of this group, with an abundance of the peculiar vertebrate fos- sils. Itis quite possible, also, that the long, high ridges, which so closely resemble them, south of the old stage-road. near La Clede and Dug 70 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Spring Station, which extend off toward Muddy and Bear Rivers, of which Hay Stack Butte forms a part, are portions of the same group; if so it is a matter of great interest to trace the results of the denuding forces, which have operated so energetically all over this country in geological times. It forms one of the greatest charms of the study of the geology of the West to trace the connections of different groups of beds across intervening spaces, where they have been removed by erosion alone or by the upheaval of mountain ranges, to take up the . broken links in the history and unite them together. AsI have before stated, we gradually pass up through the second series of sandstones to a third series of laminated marls, with thin layers of chalky limestone. Near the middle of these marls are some layers of chalcedony, composed mostly of Goniobasis, masses of which are strewed over the surface in great quantities. Fragments a foot square are covered on both sides with beautiful specimens of Goniobasis, while about ten feet below is an- other layer of limestone filled with Unios, witha few Goniobasis. Frag- ments of turtle shells are quite abundant in the marly clays. These laminated marls reach a thickness of two hundred or three hundred feet, and weather into very symmetrical rounded hills or buttes, contrasting quite strongly with the style of form of the Bridger clays, though sim- ilar in type. Their shaly character is always noticeable, and their radi- ating furrows, so characteristic of indurated clays, are wanting. Before reaching the crossing of Green River, nineteen miles north of our camp near the mouth of Henry’s Fork, a thick bed of rusty-yellow sandstone makes its appearance. This sandstone is well shown on the banks of Green River. It caps the high bluffs along the river near the station on the railroad, and assists in giving the peculiar forms to the hills. On Black’s Fork the disintegration of this sand bed, as it comes to the surface, has produced large banks of loose sand. The surface of the country along Black’s Fork and up to Green River Station is quite sandy. No portion of the country over which we have traveled seems to be so entirely destitute of vegetation as that between Henry’s Fork and the railroad, and yet the soil possesses all the elements of extreme fertility. Ifit could be well irrigated it would produce forty bushels of wheat per acre. The bottoms of the streams produce good grass, and are now occupied by numerous herds of cattle. CHAPTER VI. FROM GREEN RIVER STATION, VIA BRIDGER’S PASS, TO CHEYENNE, WYOMING TERRITORY. From this point to Black Buttes, a distance of seventy miles, we fol- lew the valley of Bitter Creek, along the immediate line of the Union Pacific Railroad. The geological features of this region are of great in- terest, and, inasmuch as the detailed account of them is included in the chapiers on the third belt, along the road from Cheyenne to Salt Lake, I shall pass over this portion with only a few general remarks, sufficient to connect the geological formations of the two points. The Green River group can be studied to the best advantage along the valley of Green River, where the sides of the bluff banks rise to a perpendicular height of five hundred feet or more. The “cuts” along the railroad, from Rock Springs to Bryan Station, aid us very much in reading the true history of the strata and securing their fossil remains. | GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. fil Ten miles east of Green River Station, the Green River group disappears abruptly on the south side of Bitter Creek, and the coal formations eome up to view. On the north side, the eastern limit of the Green River beds is most sharply marked by a long, high, white bluff, that extends off, far to the northeast, toward the South Pass. The dip varies from 3° to 5°, and the laminated calcareous shales gradually pass down into yellow, gray, and brown indurated arenaceous clays, sands, and sandstones, until the well-defined coal strata are ex posed, without the least appearance of discordancy. Both the middle and the lower tertiary beds incline to the northwest. At Rock Springs the extensive and valuable mines of the Wyoming Coal Company are located. The lignite coal beds continue for a dis- tance ef about six miles east of Rock Springs, with a dip of 10°, where a series of yellow and drab-brown indurated clays rise up from beneath the sandstones, and continue for eight miles, to a point about two miles east of Salt Wells Station. This interval forms a sort of low, valley- like space, which is well marked, om account of the rounded and far less rugged style of weathering which extends off to the northeast of the railroad, on one side, and southwest on the opposite side. Hast of Salt Wells the coal-bearing beds appear again, with an opposite incli- nation, about 16° to the southwest, proving this interval to be a true anticlinal valley. Not a fossil was discovered in these clays to fix their age with certainty, but I have no doubt that they belong to the upper eretaceous period, and are an extension, to the north or northeast, of those cretaceous clays already noticed as occurring near the mouth of Henry’s Fork, on Green River. I believe it to be the extension north- eastward of the axis of elevation of the Uinta Mountains. I think, how- ever, that it dies out, or is concealed by more modern tertiary beds, be- fore reaching the Sweetwater Valley. Continuing eastward from Salt Wells Station, the gradual inclination of the strata exposes a splendid section of the eocene coal beds. Not less than 1,000 to 1,500 feet of sandstones and clays are passed over before we come to the valuable coal beds near Black Buttes. At this point the old stage road diverges to the south of the railroad, follow- ing up the south branch of Bitter Creek. Soon after leaving Black Buttes we cross the western rim of the series of middle tertiary beds, which I have named the “ Washakie group.” The transition from the coal beds is through a series of indurated are- naceous clays, with beds of sandstones of all colors and texture, bearing upon their surface the evidence of their more modern date. The in- clination is in the same direction and in accordance with the lower tertiaries, but the dip is not more than 3° to 5°. At Big Pond Station, fourteen miles east of Black Buttes, the deserted buildings of the old stage station are entirely built of rocks composed of fresh-water shells. There are two kinds of rock, viz, a calcareous: sandstone, formed of an aggregate of Unios, Viviparas, Goniobasis, &e., but all casts, the sandstone being so porous that the calcareous shell has been entirely dissolved away; still the rock itself effervesces very briskly on the application of hydrochloric acid. Another bed, varying in thickness from six to twelve inches, is a very compact limestone, somewhat siliceous. Thisis simply an aggregate of Goniobasis cemented with a little lime and silica. The texture of the rock is so close that it is difficult to obtain any perfect shells. Table Rock is a high, flat-topped ‘“ butte” north of this point. The underlying yielding clays are protected from erosion by these beds of shell rock. All the rocks used for building parposes along the railroad € (2. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. at Table Rock and Red Desert, and on the old stage road at Big Pond and La Clede, were taken from these shell beds. These layers of rock extend over hundreds of square miles, and all the buildings for large cities might be constructed from the aggregate remains of these little fresh-water animals. Marine limestones of great thickness, composed entirely of organic remains, are not uncommon in various portions of our own county, but I have never known such extensive beds of rock made up entirely of a few species of fresh-water shéils. At the present time both fresh-water and land shells are very rare in this country; the physical conditions seem to be very unfavorable, except at the sources of some of the tributaries of the Missouri River that come in from the north, as the James, Vermillion, and Big Sioux Rivers. These streams are filled with Unios, Viviparas, Lymneas, Planorbis, Physas, &e.; and yet the conditions seem to have been more favorable in years past for this kind of life than at present. In the fine vegetable matter that accumulates along the Missouri River from the annual floods, Ihave seen bushels of minute Helices, Pupas, Succineas, &c., and yet I have looked in vain for any of these shells alive in the little streams in the Vicinity. In the banks of the streams that flow into the Lower Missouri, as Big Sioux, Vermillion, and others, large accumulations of fresh-water and land shells are found buried fifteen to twenty feet beneath the sur- face; yet it seems to me, thatif all that have ever existed in this region were gathered together, they would not cover a large area. In the Mis- sourl River, from the base of the mountains to its entrance into the Mississippi, scarcely a shell can be found, and very few ever are seen in. any of the branches that flow in from the south. The inference is, that the impurity of the waters over the greater portion of the West is such at the present time that this class of life cannot exist. Hew favorable, then, must have been the conditions for the increase cf molluscous life in these old tertiary times! Not only were the waters pure, but tirough- . out all the vast thickness of middle and upper tertiary deposits in the beds of clay and sandstones, there is more or less calcareous matter, as is shown by the application of an acid; proving that lime, which is so essential to these animals, must have existed in the waters of that period. About six miles east of Big Pond Station, a well-marked bed of reddish clay is exposed, which can be seen extending across the country, over the sides of the bluff-like hills, for many miles. I call attention to this red band of clay, from the fact that it seems to mark the appear- ance of the lower portion of the middle tertiary, and increases or dimin- ishes in importance in different localities. On the east side of Green River, opposite the mouth of Henry’s Fork, these clays, with a reddish tinge and bands of light brown, reach a thickness of one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet, and weather into quite regular and picturesque orms On the west side of the South Pass these light-red clays are well dis- played near the base of the middle tertiaries, and in some calcareous layers above them are multitudes of fresh-water shells. This band is also seen at the eastern terminus of the Green River group, near Rock Springs, and near the sources of the Muddy west of Bridger’s Pass. It also gives name to the station on the Union Pacifie Railroad, ‘Red Des- eri ‘from the fact that the contiguous hills receive their color from it. Whether these formations are “connected geographically or chrono- logically with the vast series of red beds west of the eastern rim of the Great Sait Lake Basin, a more extended exploration must determine. The shell beds lie above this in all the localities that I have examinetl except near the South Pass, where a bed of very porous sandstone GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 73 occurs near the base of the series, made up of casts of Unios, Lym-neas, Sco Between LaClede and Barrel Springs the strata are very nearly hori- zontal. The surface is less rugged; still to the south of the road are high, rather abrupt ridges, and in the distance are quite pointed ridges three hundred feet high, composed of the somber, hard, indurated, rusty arenaceous clays which characterize the Bridger group. Indeed, from its _ form and style of weathering, and the color of its sediments, it could not be distinguished from the high ridges of Bridger beds west of our road from Henry’s Fork to Green River Station. Although I have hitherto regarded the group of beds which I have denominated the “ Washakie group,” as separated from those of Greeen River and to the westward, yet I am now inclined to believe that the upper series is either an exten- sion eastward of the Bridger group or synchronous with it. Fragments of turtles and other vertebrate remains are not uncommon. Near Barrel Springs a very good section of the laminated, chalky clays is exposed in the valley of the Muddy; seams of shells as Unio tel- linoides, Goniobasis tenera, G.nodulifera, and G. Carteri, four inches thick, occur above and below thin layers of rotten vegetable matter. These shells occur through fifty to one hundred feet of these chalky beds. Remains of turtles, also vertebree of fishes and reptiles, are found; a few obscure plants, like blades of grass, stems of rushes, &c., occur in the clays; still higher on the tops of the hills that border the stream, are some thin, chalky clays, crowded full of plants, as ferns, rushes, grasses, palms, &e., finely preserved. Fragments of palm-wood and those of deciduous trees are scattered over the surface in great profusion. I think I have never seen vegetable remains more abundant or more easily obtained in any portion of the West than at this locality. There was about two feet of strata composed of them, and they split into very thin regular layers, as light as dry vegetable matter could be, and each side of the thin layers was covered with beautiful impressions of leaves in a remarkably fine state of preservation. Upon these weathered hills were literally bushels of very pretty Goniobasis and Unios, which one could gather to his entire satisfaction. I regretted very much that my party could not remain a day in this interesting region; but the almost entire absence of grass and the alkaline water compelled us to hasten on with our half- starved animals. From Barrel Springs we descend geologically, the dip of the rocks being reversed, and the same beds rise to view that we saw in traveling east- ward from Black Buttes. As we descend into the valley toward Duck Lake, the pinkish bed makes its appearance, and on the left of the road is an isolated mass of sandstone, about twenty feet cube, which forms a sort of landmark. Although this red layer is a conspicuous feature in this region for miles along the valley of the Muddy, yet this isolated mass is the only example of hardened rock connected with the red band in this region. There must have been some local cause originally for the greater tenacity of the cementing material in this restricted locality. The water divide of this region is undoubtedly Bridger’s Pass, but the geological divide I regard as located between La Clede and Dug Spring Station. Here the strata are nearly horizontal, or from what might be called a synelinal. Along the Union Pacific Railroad at Dodge’s Sum- mit, the water and geological divide are identical. The strata west of this divide incline slightly northeast, and on the east side southwest. As Ihave already stated in a preceding chapter in describing the tertiary formation from Bridger to Green River, they may be separated provision- ally into four series. 74 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. First series.—The coal strata, lower eocene, characterized by numerous impressions of deciduous leaves, marine and fresh-water mollusea. Second series.—Arenaceous, upper eocene, characterized by a profusion of fresh-water shells, as Unios, Goniobasis, Viviparas, Lymneas, &e.; a portion of these being casts. Third series—Calcareous, lower miocene, containing the greatest abundance of fresh-water shells, plants, fishes, &e. Fourth sevies—Arenaceous clays—upper miocene—turtle shells; no other fossils observed. The third series of beds contains the plants and shells that were found in such profusion near Barrel Springs on the Muddy. Continuing our way eastward, we descend aeross valleys and over ridges, with the outcropping edges of bed after bed of sandstone and clay rising to view, until we come to the coal strata near Washakie Station, on a branch of the Muddy flowing down from Bridger’s Pass. The, dip is hardly perceptible at first, but gradually it reaches 5°. Through the eocene and cretaceous beds, even to the granites, the inclination may increase, or in some cases diminish. In‘ some instances the eocene beds are vertical, while the carboniferous strata beneath, incline at a small angle. There is no apparent discordancy between the four series of tertiary beds noted above. Along Green River, at Rock Springs, Black Buttes, and west of Bridger’s Pass, no want of conformability could be ascertained. Yet there must be some discordanee between the upper tertiaries and the older beds, from the fact that the Bridger group and the Monument Creek group, as well as the upper portions of the White River group, jut up against the older beds in many places in a horizontal position or incline at an angie of 3°to 5°. Thisis the case along the eastern flanks of the Laramie range, and on the sides of other mountains in numerous localities. Near Fort Laramie the White River beds, which may possibly be of pliocene age, have been deposited high up, in the ravines, on granites, or on the upturned edges of carboniferous limestones, and yet in the plains these same beds seem to conform perfectly to the old tertiaries, and the latter conform perfectly to the cretaceous, Jurassic, triassic, carboniferous, and Silurian beds. After passing Duck Lake Station we ascend barometrically, although we descend geologically, lower and lower beds rising to view continu- ally, and just before reaching Washakie Station the lower tertiaries or lignite beds make their appearance, with a dip of about 10°. I think the fresh-water shells that occur here in sandstones so abundantly be- long to the third series of upper eocene beds that gradually pass down into the coal strata. About a mile west of Washakie the beds of coal are ex- posed, and the examples of the baking, and even the melting, of the adjacent rocks by the spontaneous ignition of the coal-beds, are very common. The ridges are covered with these red or burnt places, which look like piles of cinders. In some beds of gray calcareous sandstone over the coal I collected great quantities of large deciduous leaves of trees belonging to the genera Platanus, Populus, Tilia, &c., evidently the Same species as those found in other localities connected with the coal formations. The coal strata reach a great thickness around Bridger’s Pass, and are composed of alternate beds of sandstone with layers and concretions of calcareous sandstone. In the upper portions the clays predominate and contain the coal seams, which vary in thickness from a few inches to ten or twelve feet. As we descend toward the ecreta- ceous beds, the sandstones begin to predominate, until they rise on our left hand, as we ascend the “pass,” in lofty, nearly vertical walls. The os GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 1D trend of the ridges is about northeast and southwest. The branch of the Muddy, which rises in the “ pass,” seems to form the line of separa- tion between the coal-beds and those of well-known cretaceous age. A bed of massive sandstone forms a wall on the north side nearly to the head of the Muddy, where the softer clays of the cretaceous seem to rise from beneath it. On the south side of the road is a high, rugged group of hills, which weather into rounded forms, which are plainly upper eretaceous. Since leaving Washakie there has been a decided im- provement in the vegetation; grass grows quite abundantly on the hills and in the valleys, and the shrubs and trees have the healthy growth peculiar to the foot-hills of the mountains. Between Bridger’s Pass and Pine Grove the wall on the north side continues much the same, but the cretaceous clays seem to underlie the sandstone; but on the south side the eretaceous beds rise up abruptly to the height of about eight hundred feet above the road; and on the summit is a broad plateau, covered with a deposit of drift material, and well grassed over. Here and there we see beautiful groves of aspen and pine. The belt of cretaceous beds is very wide. In the vicinity of Bridger’s Pass there is an enormous thickness of the coal strata, which I have estimated at three thousand to five thousand feet. The inclina- tion is 10° to 15°. The cretaceous clays are also very largely developed fifteen hundred to two thousand feet. Near Aspen Grove I found Bacu- lites ovatus and some undetermined marine shells. At Pine Grove the wall on the north side extends across the country, towards Rawlings’ Springs, in one of the most handsome and symmetrical anticlinals I have ob- served in the West. The valley is about four miles wide between the outcropping walls, and forms a sort of rolling prairie, which shows the style of surface weathering when underlaid by the soft, yielding, creta- ceous clays. The trend of the valley is northeast and southwest, and forms an extension of the axis of elevation of some range of moun- tains near Bear River. About northeast of Pine Grove there is a small lake in this valley, half a mile long and nearly the same width, the shores of which are covered with an alkaline efflorescence. This anticlinal valley is of the same character as the one that forms the extension of the axis of the Uinta range at Salt Wells. on the Union Pacific Railroad. Here we see the same smooth, rounded appearance to the surface from Rock Springs to a point about two miles east of Salt Wells, where the outcropping edges of the coal-bearing rock appear. Passing up the South Fork of - Bitter Creek, we have the more modern tertiary beds inclining at a small angle. Near La Clede Station is a high ridge, extending acrass the country like a low range of mountains, composed of the somber indu- rated, sandy clays of the upper miocene, of which Haystack Butte forms apart. Continuing our way eastward, we descend again across the edges of the same beds we saw on Bitter Creek, and gradually passing through a tremendous thickness of eocene coal strata, reach the soft clays of the cretaceous group. The exact line of separation between the true cre- taceous and tertiary beds in this region I cannot positively determine. We know that fossils, brackish and sometimes purely fresh-water, char- acterize the upper eocene above the thickest coal beds; that at Hallville, in the dark clays or slates, above one of the most valuable coal beds, there is a profusion of Cyrenas and other brackish-water fossils; that, as we de- scend in the coal strata, beds of several species of Ostrea are found ; showing clearly that the great lake at this time had access to the salt sea. J am not able to draw the exact line of separation between the tertiary and the cretaceous beds in this region, and I am inclined to believe that there \ a ~%6 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. is a considerable thickness of what may properly be called transition beds, or beds of passage, which will probably remain a long time in doubt. From Pine Grove we continue on our course to the eastward, with the high wall of sandstone on the left and the plateau on the right. Nearly opposite Pine Grove Station the anticlinal that extends off toward Rawlings’ Springs forms a notch or triangular area, in which the ere- taceous clays are worn into three singular, terrace-like ridges on the west side, with a strike southwest and northeast, and on the east side, northwest and southeast. The valley of Sage Creek is three to six miles wide. On the North Platte there is a fine exhibition of the sandstones or transition beds. Near the crossing of the old stage road there are vertical bluffs eighty to one hundred feet, composed of grayish-brown sandstone, which exhib- its, in the most remarkable degree, the various signs of shallow-water depositions, as ripple, rain, and mud-markings, with what appear to be trails of worms, &c. Broad, flat masses of sandstone lie at the base of the bluff fifteen or twenty feet square, with the surface covered with these peculiar markings; oblique layers are not uncommon. The in- durated clays of well-known cretaceous origin are well shown here, ex- tending up the North Platte for fifteen or twenty miles to the south- ward, while, to the north, ridge after ridge extends as far as the eye can reach. There are alternate beds of sandstone and a steel-brown indu- rated clay. In the second bed of sandstone from the bottom are great quantities of a species of Ostrea. AS we pass up in the series we find irregular concretionary beds of rusty calcareous sandstone, with some fossils, especially Ostrea, and a few other marine or brackish-water spe- cies. Everywhere in the West the oldest or lowest coal beds contain# more or less marine fossils, most of which belong to the genus Ostrea. They are found, in about the same position, from latitude 49° to New Mexico. Where the beds are studied with some care, in a favorable locality, we soon find that the marine evidences disappear, and the organic remains are purely fresh- water or terrestrial. On the morning of October 23 we left our camp on the North Platte and wound across the plains a little north of east to Pass Creek. To the west and southwest, as far as the eye can reach, there is a rolling or partial plain country, occupied by cretaceous beds. From the high ridges on the east side of Platte we can cast a glance back along the route we have traveled, over one of the most comprehensive views I have observed in the West. On the north side is the continuous wall of sand- stone, from Bridger’s Pass to Medicine Bow, extending up the Platte River, and retreating with a gentle dip northeast, like descending steps, or rather like chopped waves. The clays underneath the sandstone ridges are undoubtedly of cretaceous age; but I have been inclined to regard the group of alternate beds of sandstones and clays, which are So conspicuous from Bridger’s Pass to Medicine Bow River, and give the characteristic surface features to a very Jarge area, as transition beds or beds of passage from the true cretaceous era to the tertiary. It is true that we find here and there a specimen of Znoceramus or Baculite and numerous beds of several species of Ostrea ; yet the time which must have been required to bring about the changes in the sediments and animal life, from a purely marine condition to that of purely fresh- water, must have been immense. That a few of the more hardy marine forms of molluseca should have lingered on up into the period of the coal, would not and need not surprise geologists. So consecutive do the different beds appear to be, that 1 am of the opinion that, however minutely they may be studied hereafter, the line of separation between GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Ul the true ecretaceous and tertiary beds will be arbitrary. There are many localites in the West where the line of demarkation is so well defined by the absence of some beds that it cannot be mistaken, but I will discuss this question more fully hereafter. Through the broad valley winds the North Platte River with re- markably picturesque beauty, with grassy bottoms, and here and there a group of large bitter cottonwoods. To the south and southeast is a snow-covered range of mountains, walling in the North Park, and form- ing a portion of the water-shed of the continent. Far up the Platte Valley, for thirty or forty miles, the surface is slightly broken, with the appearance that the soft cretaceous clays would give it. There is a broad belt of the cretaceous beds extending along the base of the mountains and running across the course of the Platte. To the eastward rise the four rounded mountains of the Medicine Bow range, of which Elk Mountain forms a part. To the north and west the ridges of transition sandstone pass into the true tertiary toward Fort Steele on the Union Pacific Railroad. The bottoms of the North Platte are quite fertile, and produce excel- lent grass. The timber is not abundant, but taken in the aggregate there is enough to supply the sparse population that will be likely to settle in this region. The mountains would furnish a most abundant supply. : The sandstones as seen along the Platte are somewhat variable in color and texture. The three lowest and most massive beds, fifty to eighty feet in thickness, are drab brown; the fourth one is yellowish gray, very friable, separated into thin layers, and weathered into some- what fantastic forms, one of which resembles a human face. This bed of sandstone is full of large, rusty-brown, concretionary masses, which are also divided into thin layers, but are calcareous, really arenaceous limestones. In looking at the surface features of this portion of the country, these four beds of sandstone mentioned above stand out in relief, and give force to the scenery. Between them are some thin layers of sandstone and arenaceous limestone, with seams of dark-brown siliceous clay, more or less slaty. The dip of these beds is persistently northeast. Leaving the North Platte we traveled in a northeast direction over uplifted ridges for a time. Soon they are so worn down that they are only faintly shown above the surface, and for about twelve miies before reaching Pass Creek our road was over a level plain covered with a thick deposit of drift. The evidences of erosion are very conspicuous between the North Platte and Pass Creek. ‘The broad, level plain was once covered with ridges of cretaceous beds inclining at a large angle. On the east side of the plain the ridges dip west and northwest from the mountains. On the southwest side of Klk Mountain are very high ridges of sedimentary rocks, but they are only a few miles in extent. The main ridge, which lies next to the granite, is composed of carbonifer- ous limestone. The valley near it, is formed by the scooping out of the soft, red, arenaceous clays of the triassic; then comes Jurassic, eretace- ous, and lastly the tertiary beds, gently inclining toward the plains. These formations are more or less conspicuously shown, depending upon the texture of the materials. The granite mountains rise up about two thousand feet above the base; the ridge of carboniferous limestone is five hundred to eight hundred feet; the third ridge is cretaceous, che hundred to one hundred and fifty feet, while the drab sandstones of the transition group pass off northward in a series of low ridges. Leaving Pass Creek, we enter Rattle Snake Pass, with the drab sand- 78 -—S« GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. stones, underlaid by well known upper eretaceous clays, outcropping on the left hand, and the rather curious, mound-like ridges of the dark plastie clays of the lower cretaceous, on the right. Along the flanks of the mountains it is quite seldom that all the formations are clearly shown. Sometimes portions have been removed by erosion or concealed by drift deposits; or all the beds are so crushed together that only two er three of them are exposed to the eye. At this “locality for a short distance, perhaps one or two miles, the lower cretaceous clays are remarkably — weil shown, lying on the sides of the mountains; while the Jurassie, red- beds, and carboniferous are scarcely seen or are “concealed entirely. We know that they must exist here in their full development, for just west of Rattlesnake Creek all these formations are very clearly shown in lofty, well-defined ridges, inclining at an angle of 20° to 40°. These facts show the importance of careful detailed study of the geology of all the mountain districts, and the necessity also for the construction of a suita- ble topographical map on a sufiiciently large scale to show these changes clearly. Near Fort Halleck the carboniferous limestones rise high up on the sides of the mountains, resting upon the granite. All the more recent beds are worn, away or so concealed as not to be visible. Hast of Fort Halleck the ridges of sandstone bend off to the northwest, while to the east and southeast the sedimentary rocks jut up against the sides of the foot-hills of the mountains. From Elk Mountain to Little Laramie River there are no remarkable exhibitions of the uplifted sedimentary rocks. For the most part the foot-hills near the base of the mountains are quite smoothly rounded off, and covered with grass; and only here and there are any of the beds exposed. High up in ‘the mountains, toward the sources of the Big and Little Laramie rivers, are some fine exposures of the entire series of sed- imentary beds; but these will be described more fully in a subsequent portion of this report. Along the flanks of Elk Mountain there is exposed, in one or two localities, a vertical ridge of gray sandstone and quartzite, which I have regarded as No. 1, or lower cretaceous. The rock does not differ in tex- ture from the same formations as seen along the eastern slope of the Laramie range from Red Buttes to Cache ala Poudre and southward ; but in this instance it forms, for a short distance, a high vertical wall, pressing up close to the granite nucleus, while the carboniferous lime- stones are carried up on the tops of the granite to the summit of the mountain. Our camp on the Medicine Bow Creek was a pleasant one, with an abundance of timber, and the greatest supply of grass for our animals. The bottoms are wide and of inexhaustible fertility. The valleys of all the little branches fnrnish the most extensive and valuable pastoral districts for stock. Beaver dams occur everywhere, and sometimes flood a space half a mile in width. In the branches of the Medicine Bow the plastic clays of the lower cretaceous prevail, in a horizontal position. All the formations seem to jut up against the mountain sides with very little inclination. The river emerges from a sort of jog in the range, ten miles or more south of Elk Mountain, and the cretaceous beds, nearly horizontal, extend down into the plains in long, grassy, bench-like ridges. On the Wagon Hound Creek are some beds” of sandstone in a nearly vertical position, or inclining at a high angle from the mountains, which are intercalated with beds of clay and coal seams, evidently the beds of passage to the tertiary. After passing the Medicine Bow Creek eastward, the country assumes | GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 719 a more cheerful aspect; the water is as pure as crystal, and grass covers the surface very thickly. Dense groves of aspen are abundant among the foot-hills, and the little streams are all fringed with timber. From the summit of a high hill on the west side of Rock Creek we have the finest view of the Laramie Piains I have ever seen. .We reached Rock Creek on one of those clear days after a rain-storm, when the sun shines out with that wonderful brightness which is peculiar to this country. The entire area of the Laramie Plains was spread out before us like a pan- orama. The Laramie range forms a perfect wall on the east and north side, and marks the horizon from the east, around to northwest, and apparently dies out. Tothe north, Laramie Peak is as plainly visible as it is from Fort Laramie on the opposite side of the range, and rises high above any other portion. The entire surface of the plains east of the Medicine Bow, encircled by the main Rocky Mountains on the south, and the Laramie range on the east and north, has been smoothed off by denudation and grassed over, so that it forms one vast pasture-ground about sixty miles in extent from east to west, and nearly the same dis- tance from north to south. From the mountains on the south side de- scend, parallel with the valleys of the streams, beautiful benches, with smooth, table-like summits; while forming a portion of the foot-hills of the mountains are numerous rounded hills, grassed over, and paved on the tops and south side with the different kinds of rocks which con- stitute the nucleus of the mountain range, as garnetiferous gneiss, quartzites of all colors, red and gray granites, with quartz, trap rocks of various textures, fibrous gneiss, &c. These rocks are quite well worn, and they seem to lie on the summits of the hills as they were dropped by an iceberg, and present the appearance of leaning to the northward as if on the move. The shape of the hill and the position of the stray masses impresses one with the thought that they were only delayed for a time on their way from the mountains to the plains. ‘These examples of local drift or erratic blocks are very common and well defined in the Laramie Piains. Indeed, I have never seen any evidences in the Rocky Mountain region of any foreign drift. All the superficial deposits belong- ing to the quarternary period, seem to me to be local in their origin. Rock Creek Valley is very beautiful and picturesque. The stream emerges from a very narrow gorge in the mountains, which is covered with a dense growth of pines. AS we look down the stream from the gorge the valley seems to expand to two or three miles in width, and there are three belts of trees winding through it as if there were aS many separate streams. The other portions of the valley are like a meadow. About baif a mile, along the old stage road, on Rock Creek, the meta- morphic rocks are well shown, holding a nearly vertical position. There are gray and reddish feldspar beds, inclining 60°. There are also beds of what appears to be ancient trap. These ridges form steps which lead up to the Snowy range. No sedimentary rocks older than the creta- ceous are seen in the valley of Rock Creek. The valley is literally cov- ered with water-worn boulders of all kinds, mostly metamorphic, and hence its name. These boulders diminish in size as we descend the creek until they nearly or quite disappear. All the hills on either side Show accumulations of these worn rocks on the side facing the moun- tains. On the east side of Rock Creek the yellow sandstone which un- derlies the long bench is undoubtedly cretaceous No. 5, and contaims a few fossils, among which are the usual Znoceramus and Baculites ovatus. On the east side of Cooper’s Creek there is a long, high ridge, with its abrupt side toward the mountains, and covered thickly with the rounded boulders—a marked ilustration of the direction from which the bould- 80 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ers were derived. The valley of Cooper’s Creek is a broad, meadow-like expansion, and produces a thick growth of grass, which supplies an abundant provision for stock in the winter. All these streams emerge from the mountains through narrow canons. From Elk Mountain to Big Laramie I doubt whether any rocks older than the cretaceous are exposed on the flanks of the mountains, and these in many places are obscured by heavy deposits of drift. The valley of the Little Laramie is now mostly occupied by ranches. Thousands of cattle wander over its broad meadows and on the up- land plains, and hundreds of tons of hay are prepared every year. It is probable that this region is destined to become celebrated as one of - the finest pastoral districts i in America. Leaving Big Laramie we ascended the western slope of the Laramie range by way of Cheyenne Pass, across the cretaceous, Jurassic, and triassic or red beds. The latter gives a bright brick-red appearance to a wide belt along the east side of the road for 30 to 40 miles. A bed of bluish limestone covers the western slope of the Laramie range with remarkable uniformity, like the roof of a house, inclining 10° to 15°. Underneath this, toward the summit, a bed of yellowish-white limestone appears, with well-marked carboniferous fossils. Toward the summit of the range we pass over a depression or valley of considerable depth, which seems here to separate the changed from the unchanged rocks. We then come to reddish micaceous feldspathic granites. Indeed, all varieties and textures of granitic rocks occur on the summit of this range. We continue to travel over ridge after ridge of metamorphic rocks—some very fine in texture, others quite coarse—until we come to the smooth, plain-like area which forms the central portion. This grassy belt constitutes the real crest or divide, and after passing this we travel over ridge after ridge of metamorphic rocks similar to those on the west side, but with a reversed dip, showing a distinct anticlinal; and at the east end of the pass, at the sources of Lodge Pole Creek, the metamorphic rocks rise up from beneath the red sands and limestones in perfect conformity, so far as they are visible to the eye. On the east slope are broken ridges, which show the carboniferous limestones inclining 38° to 10°. Curiously rounded ravines, carved out of the ridges by water, separate them into picturesque fragments. The road through Cheyenne Pass is excellent, and is paved with crystals of feld spar. The soil is fertile and the grass is good. South of Laramie Peak there is a great scarcity of timber on this range, so that it does not deserve the name of ‘“ Black Hills,” which is often applied to it. Just south of Crow Creek there is an illustration of the granite rocks carrying up the carboniferous limestones on their summits in a nearly horizontal position. The tertiary beds jut up against the base of the range, entirely concealing all traces of older rocks, so that larger areas of older formations are broken off and lifted up far above the plains on the summits of the mountains. This is not an uncommon occurrence along the flanks of all the mountainranges. It only shows how interest- ing and complicated are the details of the study of these ranges, however simple their structure may seem to be in the aggregate. Leaving Cheyenne Pass, we cross over a remarkable parallel valley, or one which has been scooped out near the base of the mountains and extends along parallel with it. It extends from the ridge south of the drainage of Crow Creek to the Chugwater. The modern tertiary beds extend down to Cheyenne, a distance of fifteen miles. We have now (November 1,) reached our point of departure on the 6th 7 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. $1 of August last. Two belts of country have been explored: 1. North of the railroad by way of North Platte, Red Buttes, Sweetwater, South Pass, to Fert Bridger. 2. Southof therailroad, from Fort Bridger via Henry’s Fork, Green River, Bitter Creek, Bridger’s Pass, Medicine Bow Moun- tains, Cheyenne Pass, to Cheyenne again. We shall occupy ourselves next with a description of the third or mid- dle belt connecting the two already described, extending from Cheyenne to Salt Lake Valley along the line of the Union Pacific Railroad. We shall also gather up some of the fragments from point to point which may have been omitted, or not fully explained, in the preceding portions of this report. 6G Seawacd aga hy iia be CHAPTER— VII. GENERAL VIEW OF THE GEOLOGY OF THE MISSOURI Ven Bis Vill. FROM OMAHA TO CHEYENNE. IX. OVER THE FIRST RANGE. X. THE LARAMIE PLAINS. XI. WESTWARD TO BEAR RIVER. XII. BEAR RIVER TO GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY. XIII. GENERAL REVIEW OF THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY FROM OMAHA TO SALT LAKE VALLEY. XIV. OBSERVATIONS ON MINES. —ANALYSES OF COALS, ORES, AND SALTS. GEOLOGY OF THE MISSOURI VALLEY. CHAPTER VII. GENERAL VIEW OF THE GEOLOGY OF THE MISSOURI VALLEY. In order that our description of the geology of that belt of country bordering the line of the Union Pacific Railroad may be more clearly understood, we may in this chapter take a somewhat hasty glance at the principal geological features of the vast area drained by the Missouri River and its tributaries. The geologist is dependent for his knowlédge of the earth’s crust, either on natural sections formed by the ehannels of rivers, or the upheavals of mountain chains, or on the artificial cuts along railways, or artesian borings. The great Missouri cuts a section from its source in the mountains to the Mississippi, a distance of nearly 3,000 miles, affording an excellent opportunity for studying the various geological formations which occurin the Northwest. The branches also, which make their way from distant points on either side of the Missouri, cut the country up in every direction, so thatit is hardly possible to fail in obtaining at least, an approximately correct interpretation of the records. The cuts along the line of the railroad are, as it were, slices in the earth’s crust which often reveal the nature of the underlying formations with wonderful clearness, throwing a flood of light upon ob- seure points. Many of the observations also, which were made for prac- tical purposes by the engineers, as well as the exploration for useful minerals in the vicinity of the road, may be brought into the service of science. Thus the elevations which have been taken with great care across the continent from Omaha to San Francisco are very useful. Along a well-known line of travel, the attention of the student of geology will most likely be attracted toward the principal geological features, and on this account I hope to make the succeeding chapters a sort of guide in this respect. My observations, which have extended _ over a period of about three years, may be regarded as correct in the main, though every year new facts will be added. Before starting on our westward tour let us study for a little time the wonderful section which is revealed to us along the channel of the Mis- souri River. It has iong been known that the northeastern portion of Nebraska is underlaid by rocks of the upper coal measures. These rocks are well shown from the south line of the State to the mouth of the Platte River, where they are partially concealed by a great thick- ness of recent deposits. They gradually disappear beneath the water- level near De Soto, about thirty miles aboveOmaha. If we ascend the Platte River for a short distance we shall find the carboniferous lime- stones finely exposed, and the opportunities for their study are very much aided by the numerous quarries which have been opened. They, in their turn, pass beneath the water-level of the river, near the mouth of the Elkhorn, and are not again visible until they are exposed along flanks of the mountain ranges. So far as Nebraska is concerned, the carboniferous rocks seem to be directly overlaid by the rusty sandstones of the lower cretaceous, No.1. In the valley of the Big and Little Blue 2 86 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Rivers some yellow and buff magnesian limestones occur, which are sug- gestive of permian relations, but it is quite doubtful whether rocks of that age extend up into Nebraska, although they occur in Kansas. On my geological map I have usually colored a small strip of permian extending up into Southern Nebraska, but our present knowledge would indicate that it might be omitted. Although some of the fossils seem to possess permian affinities, they all extend down into the coal measures, and therefore are not peculiarly characteristic. As we have before re- marked, the carboniferous rocks along the Missouri River are immediately overlapped by formations of cretaceous age. These rocks as revealed along the Missouri, have been separated into five well-marked divisions, which have been designated by numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and by groups, as Dakota Group, Fort Pierre Group, and Fox Hills Group. Inasmuch as we shall have occasion to refer to these groups in describing rocks in the cretaceous epoch in other portions of the West, we will introduce here a general section of the cretaceous rocks along the Missouri River, as pre- pared by Mr. Meek and the writer several years since, and published in previous reports. There are so many students of western geology scattered over the country at the present time, most of whom cannot gain access to the memoirs in which these sections have been pub- lished, that this will be a sufficient reason for reproducing them in this connection. Not only in this report, but also in subsequent reports, we shall have constant occasion to refer to these sections, and the differ- ent groups of rocks. The sections were based on characters cbtained from a careful study of the groups as exposed along the Missouri River, and it is here that their typical characters are found. As we depart from this center in any direction these characters are modified more or less. As we go southward into the Laramie Plains, Colorado, or New Mexico, these divisions are not as well defined, and Drs. Newberry and Leconte have very properly divided the whole cretaceous group, as there developed, into upper, middle, and lower cretaceous. Yet, to one familiar with the typical divisions as seen on the Upper Missouri, geographical extension never modifies them so that they do not still possess some traces of their original characters. Formation No. 1, as seen all along the flanks of the mountains from the Big Horn and Wind River ranges to New Mexico, has never yielded a single characteristic fossil, and the lithological characters are quite different in many respects from those which are peculiar to the group, as shown near Sioux City andsouthward into Kansas. Again, in their southward extension, the division into upper and lower cretaceous groups would probably best accord with the facts as we know them at the present time. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF ‘THE TERRITORIES. General section of the cretaceous rocks of the Northwest. 87 Fox Hills beds, Formation No. 5. Upper series. i Fort Pierre Group. Formation No. 4. eco— Niobrara division. Formation No. 3. Lower series. Fort Benton Group. Formation No. 2. Dakota Group. Formation No.1. ——— Middle zone nearly barren of fossils Lower fossiliferous zone, containing Ammon- Divisions and subdivisions. Gray, ferruginous, and yellowish sandstone, and arenaceous clays, containing Belemni- tella bulbosa, Nautilus Dekayt, Ammonites placenta, A. lobatus, Scaphites Conradi, S. Nicolletti, Baculites grandis, Busycon Bairdi, Fusus Culbertson, F. Newberryi, Aporrhais Americana, Pseudo-buccinum, Nebrascensis, Mactra Warrenana, Cardium subquadra- tum, anda great number of other molluscous fossils, together with bones of Mosasaurus Missouriensis, &c. Dark-gray and bluish plastic clays, containing, near the upper part, Nautilus Dekayt, Am- monites placenta, Baculites ovatus, B. com- pressus, Scaphites nodosus, Dentalium gra- cile, Crassatella Hvansi, Cuculleea Nebrascen- sis, Inoceramus Sagensis, I. Nébrascensis, I. Vanuxemi, bones of Mosasaurus Missouri- ensis, éc. ites complexus, Baculites ovatus, B. compres- sus, Helioceras Mortont, H. tortum, H. wm- bilicatum, H. cochleatum, Ptychoceras Mor- toni, Fusus vinculum, Anisomyon borealis, Amauropsis paludiniformis, Inoceranus sublevus, I. tenui-lineatus, bones of Mosa- saurus Missouriensis, éc. Dark bed of very fine unctuous clay, contain- ing much carbonaceous matter, with veins and seams of gypsum, masses of sulphtret iron, and numerous small scales, fishes, local, filling depressions in the bed below. Lead-gray calcareous marl, weathering to a yel- lowish or whitish chalky appearance above, ponkaiing large scales and other remains of fishes, and numerous species of Ostrea con- gesta attached to fragments of Inoceramus. Passing down into light yellowish and whitish limestone, containing great num- bers of Inoceramus problematicus, I. pseudo- mytiloides, I. aviculoides, and Ostrea con- gesta, fish scales, &c. Dark-gray laminated clays, sometimes alter- nating near the upper part with seams and layers of soft gray and light-colored lime- stone, Inoceramus problematicus, I. tenuiros- tratus, I. latus, I. fragilis, Ostrea congesta, Venilia Mortoni, Pholadomya papyracea, Ammonites Mullani, A. percarinatus, A. vespertinus, Scaphites Warrent, S. larve- Formis, S. ventricosus, S. vermiformis, Nauti- lus elegans, (2) &c. Yellowish, reddish, and occasionally white sandstone, with, at places, alternations of various colored clays and beds and seams of impure lignite; also silicified wood and great numbers of leaves of the higher types of dicotyledonous trees, with casts of Phar- ella (?) Dakotensis, Axinaea Siouxensis, and Cyprina arenarea. Localities. Fox Hills, near Moreau Riv- er, near Long Lake, above Fort Pierre, along base Big Horn Mountains, and on Northand South Platte Rivers. Sage Creek, Cheyenne River, and on White River above the Mauvaises Terres. Fort Pierre and out to Bad ‘ Lands, down the Missouri, on the high country, to Great Bend. Great Bend of the Missouri, below Fort Pierre. Near Bijou Hill, on the Mis- souri. Bluffs along the Missouri, below the Great Bend, to the vicinity of Big Sioux River; also below there on the tops of the hills. Extensively developed near Fort Benton, on the Upper Missouri; also along the latter from ten miles above James River to Big Sioux River, and along the east- ern slope of the Rocky Mountains as well as at the Black Hills. Hills back of the town of Dakota; also extensivel: developed in the surround- ing country, in Dakota County, below the mouth of Big Sioux River, thence extending southward into | northeastern Kansas and | beyond. Estimated thickness hy ag = i ot S aq 200 800 400 a a a a nn Eq. upper or white chalk and Maestricht Senonien, D’Orbigny. om —_: Eq. lower or gray chalk (and upper gray Cay beds. sts. Turo- andstone) of British geologi nien and Cenomanien (2) of D’Orbigny. 8 The names which are given to these groups, both in the cretaceous and tertiary rocks, are always provisional, and are intended as specific points around which to group such facts as may add to our own knowl- edge from year to year; and when it shall have been found that any of them have served their purpose, and are no longer needed, they will be dropped from the list. Objections may be made to the use of local geo- graphical names, but they have been found by experience to serve our 83). GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES? purpose best. In Nebraska the sandstones of the Dakota Group rest directly upon rocks of the age of the coal measures. Although they do not appear in full force until we reach a point near De Soto and beyond, yet remnants of the sandstones make their appearance within five or ten miles of Omaha at any point north of the Platte River. It is quite probable that they once extended all over Nebraska, passing across into Jowa, and how much further eastward we have not definite data to de- termine. The coal-measure limestones are thus exposed in northeastern Nebraska by the erosion of the cretaceous rocks. This is a very import- ant matter in a practical point of view, for the sandstones of the cretace- ous group are seldom of much value for building purposes, and the ex- posure of large areas of the carboniferous rocks in the most fertile por- tions of the State is a fact of inestimable value. Chalk Bluffs, Cretaceous No. 1, near Blackbird Hill, Nebraska. Along the banks of the Missouri River, on the Indian Reserve, is a lotty escarpment of yellow, rotten, coarse-grained sandstone, sometimes ealled Chalk Bluffs, from their whitish chalky appearance in the dis- tance. They are from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in height, and about half way up, or at least fifty feet above the water, and. as much from the top of this perpendicular wall, are carved out numer- ous Indian hieroglyphics, as pipes, canoes, various kinds of animals, rude representations of the Indians themselves, &c. The question at once arises, who carved them here? The Indians now living cannot account for them, and call the rocks “ Medicine,” a term which they apply to all things that are mysterious tothem. The characters closely resembie those on their robes worn at the present day, and are doubtless emblem- atical of some important event in Indian history. These figures must have been carved here many centuries ago, when that portion of the escarpment was accessible from beneath in some way, all trace of which has been effaced by the water. Similar ones are still to be seen in other localities, especially in the mountains. A small creek, which flows into the Missouri a few miles below the “ Running Water,” has an Indian name which signifies “‘ Where the dead have worked,” from the fact, that upon the high chalky walls that form its banks are some of the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 89 same mysterious carvings. These soft sandstones, or chalky limestones, are well adapted for recording their hieroglyphical history. But these rocks bear upon them far plainer characters than those de- scribed above, and characters which carry the history of events infi- nitely farther back into the past than any ever carved upon stone by hu- man hands. Near the Blackbird Mission, and in other localities above and below this place, has been found a remarkable series of fossil plants embedded in the sandstones and quartzites, which has thrown much light upon the ancient flora of thisregion. These sandstones all belong te the lower cretaceous or chalk, period, and it is now well ascertained that with the beginning of that era, began upon our continent the dawn of existing deciduous fruit and forest trees, as did also the present race ef edible fishes, as the herrring, perch, &c. We find impressions of leaves in rocks, remarkably well preserved, representing the genera Platanus, Populus, Fagus, Liriodendron, Sassafras, Magnolia, Ficus, and others. Some of these plants indicate a warmer climate at one time in this region than at present, though hardly tropical, or, as Dr. Newberry has shown, not even sub-tropical, although on the Pacific coast species of the palm and cinnamon, indicative of a tropical climate, are found. Té may be that when these rocks are more thoroughly studied, plants of a tropical or sub-tropical character will be found. I take pleasure in transcribing the following paragraph from Dr. Newberry’s able report on these plants: At the base of the cretaceous series in New Jersey, occur a coarse, sort sandstone and beds of sandy clay which contain a large number of fossil leaves, many of which, collected by Professor George H. Cook, of New Brunswick, by Messrs. Meek, Hayden, and ethers, have been submitted to me for examination. Unfortunately most of these leaves are inclosed in a material so coarse and friable that they have been much broken and are scarcely susceptible of accurate study. They form, however, quite a rich flora. which includes a number of species not yet obtained from the cretaceous beds of the West, with others that are apparently identical with some obtained by myseif on the banks of the Whetstone Creek in Western Kansas. Among these plants is a beautiful conifer, generically new, as indicated by its cones, which are in a good state of preser- vation. The plants from this district have not as yet been carefully studied, and they form an attractive subject for future investigation. In the circumstances of their fos- silization they resemble the plants of the West, and apparently indicate an invasion _ of the ocean, occasioned by a subsidence by which the limits of the continent were con- tracted, but to what extent on its eastern margin, we have no means of determining accurately. By referring to the list of plants on a preceding page it will be seen that the ere- taceous strata of the west coast include some forms not yet discovered in the Kansas and Nebraska beds. Among these, Salisburia, Sabal, Cinnamomum, &c., are indicative ofa warm climate. Possibly these genera may hereafter be detected in the plant beds of Kansas, Nebraska and New Mexico, but as yet we have no intimation of their exist- ence, and there is nothing now known in the cretaceous flora of that region which gives it a tropical or even sub-tropical character. It will be remembered that this vegetation grew upon a broad continental surface of which the central portion was considerably elevated. This would give us a physical condition not unlike that of the continent at the present day, and it would seem to be inevitable that the isothermal lines should be curved over the surface somewhat as they are at present. It may very well happen, therefore, that we shall find the palms and cinnamons restricted to the western margin of the cretaceous continent. It will be seen by the notes now given of the tertiary flora of our’ continent that at a later date palms grew in the same region where these cretaceous plants are found, but cin- namon and other tropical plants seem to be entirely wanting in the tertiary flora of the central parts of the continent, while on the west coast both palms and cinnamons lived during the tertiary period as far north as the British line. We have, therefore, negative evidence from these facts—though it may be reversed at an early day by further observations—that the climate of the interior of our continent during the tertiary age was somewhat warmer than during the cretaceous period, and that during both the same relative differences of climate prevailed between the central and western portions that exist at the present day. Near the entrance of the Big Sioux River into the Missouri the \ 90 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Dakota Group disappears beneath the water-level, and is succeeded by a series of black, plastic, laminated clays, with lighter-colored arenaceous partings and thin layers of sandstone. Near the mouth of the Ver- million River the upper portion becomes more calcareous, and gradually passes up into the next group. This formation has been called No. 2, or Fort Benton Group. It is often immensely thickened in the vicin- ity of the mountains from the north line to New Mexico, but on the Lower Missouri, where it was first observed by geologists, it never reaches a thickness of more than one hundred and fifty or two hun- dred feet. In New Mexico it occurs as the most conspicuous of the cretaceous divisions, and along the line of the Kansas Pacific Railway, in Kansas, it has yielded large quantities of the most remarkable rep- tilian remains. In the chapter on the geology of that route I shall have oceasion to dwell more minutely on the interesting facts connected with this group. On the Missouri River it has yielded a number of species of Inoceramus, Scaphites, Amonites, and some thin layers are made up of remains of the scales and teeth of fishes. Farther up the Missouri River, near the mouth of the Niobrara, and resting on these sandstones and clays, is a thick bed of chalky limestone, containing vast quantities of a small species of oyster, and a large bivalve, Ino- ceramus problematicus, which is identical in species, or closely allied with one found in many portions of Europe. Some remarkable forms of fishes, not unlike our shad or herring, also sharks’ teeth, have been found in abundance. A few other shells have been described in various localities in this chalk, and all of them are of a strictly marine charac- ter Much of this limestone, though colored extensively with oxide of iron, is soft, and leaves a mark on a blackboard or cloth like our com- mon chalk of commerce. It is also composed largely of infusorial remains, as distinctly shown under the microscope. ‘This formation, as well as the sandstone, is very widely distributed over the plain country in Nebraska, Dakota, and Kansas, and its influence on the agricultural prosperity of these regions is very great. The fertility of the soil is largely due to the calcareous matter of the one mingled with the silica derived from the other. The bluff-like character of these chalky lime- stones, as Shown along the channel of the Missouri from the mouth of the Niobrara to the mouth of White River, is well illustrated by Figure 2. Fig. 2. Bluffs of Niobrara Group, or C This is one of the most interesting of the cretaceous divisions. It is found in some form wherever the cretaceous beds occur, from the north retaceous No. 3. Ore GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. oil line to New Mexico, and probably much farther. As it is developed on the Lower Missouri, and southward through Nebraska, Kansas, into Texas and the Indian Territory, it contains thick, massive beds of chalky limestone. On the Kansas Pacific Railway, at Forts Hays and Wallace, this limestone is sawed into blocks of any desirable size with a common saw, and used for building purposes; but along the flanks of the mountains, or in the far West, it never reveals its chalky character. It is found in thin, slaty, calcareous layers, but universally character- ized by the presence of the oyster, Ostrea congesta, and also some form of Inoceramus, or a few fish remains, but the little oyster is ubiquitous. We have spoken briefly of the lower series of cretaceous rocks, as shown in the section. In these three divisions there seems to be no well-marked line of separation, and the more we study them the more intimately do they seem to be blended together. We shall here- after refer to the seams of coal that have ‘been found in the Dakota Group; and we will state just here that one local bed of carbonaceous clay, which was used to some extent as fuel, was found in No. 2, on the’ Nebraska side of the Missouri, about thirty miles above Sioux City. In no other portion of the West have we ever seen anything that ap- proached coal in this group. The Fort Pierre Group begins to overlap the Niobrara Group below the mouth of the Niobrara, and above that point, although the river cuts deep down into the chalk limestone, and long lines of cone-like blufis extend up nearly to the Great Bend, yet the distant hills on either side of the river show plainly the dark, shaly clays of No.4. This formation coy- ers a vast area of country, perhaps fifty thousand square miles or more, and wherever it prevails it gives to the surface the aspect of desolation. The entire thickness of the group is filled with the alkaline material which is so well known in the West, and wherever the water accumulates in little depressions and evaporates the surface is covered with a deposit of the salt varying from an inch to several inches in thickness. The water that flows through these clays is usually impregnated with these salts and thus rendered unfit for use. Although these clays seem to be so sterile, and in the dry season are typical of extreme aridity, yet they are by no means destitute of vegetation. The various species of chen- opodiaceous shrubs and herbs that are peculiar to the West find their natu- ral habitat in these clays, and grow most luxuriantly. The sarcobatus reaches its highest growth in this region. It is probable, however, that the country underlaid by rocks of this group will prove fertile when it can be irrigated. The somber appearance given to the country by the black clays is unfavorable to it. Nowhere except on the Upper Missouri have I seen this formation so well defined or so fruitful in or- ganic remains. The two zones mentioned in the section may be said to exist geographically as well as geologically. At the Great Bend there is a large thickness of the strata filled with coneretions that are made up mostly of an aggregate of fossils, as Ammonites, Baculites, &c. Near Chain de Roche Creek these concretions have been swept down into the Missouri by the swift current during the spring floods, and in the low water of autumn they present a picturesque appearance, as is shown in Fig. 3. This fossil zone extends across the country in a nearly east and west direction. Passing above this point very few fossils, except here and there a baculite or bones of the Mosasaurus, are found for one hundred and fifty to two hundred miles, when another belt or zone of fossils ex- tends across the country in the same direction. These zones undoubtedly represent certain depths of the waters in the great cretaceous sea, which ~ 92 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. were peculiarly favorable for the production and existence of animal life. Although the rivers cut deep channels through the different forma- tions, we do not meet with the Fox Hills Group along the Missouri until we reach nearly up to the mouth of Cannon Ball River, yet fifty miles or Fig. 3. TTT i H == = ——— === —— SS ==> SS = = ——=S = = = a Concretions in Missourri River, near Chain de Roche Creek. more before reaching that point it has overlapped the Fort Pierre Group. In traveling across the plain country westward from Fort Pierre we find it occupying the entire area. Very soon after passing west of the Big Cheyenne River the traveler will readily recognize its presence by the more cheerful appearance that it gives to the surface, as well as by the greatly increased growth of vegetation. The water is pure and good, and springs beceme quite common in the hilis. In this group also there is*a remarkable zone of fossils, exending across the ‘ country in either direction from the Missouri River. Near the mouth of the Cannon Ball River, the surface is covered with rounded conere- tions of rusty-brown arenaceous limestone, crowded with beautiful mo- luscous fossils. This belt is quite narrow and extends eastward toward the Coteau de Prairie, and westward between the Big Cheyenne and Grand Rivers, along the north side of the Black Hills. I have thus given the typical features which those groups assume on the Missouri River. As we recede from this region southward there are many modifications, especially lithologically; yet to one familiar with them they never lose all their characters, so that they cannot be detected. Like the human face, neither time nor distance can so change it that it does not retain some trace of its original features. In my explora- tions I have traced these groups over hundreds of miles in every direc- tion, and I have no doubt that they extend from the Arctic Circle to the Isthmus of Darien; and that at some future period they will be so carefully studied at different points that they may be cennected into one harmonious group. All the facts that I have been able to gather up to this time tend toward the unity and simplicity of the geology of the entire Rocky Mountain system. If the reader has the patience and interest to follow me through this report, he will find frequent allusions to all these groups in the deserip- tion of the geology of various localities. Some of these groups come GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. aS to the surface very often, not unfrequently in unexpected localities, as is observed on the Yellowstone, where the fossiliferous beds of No. 4 are exposed in the channel of the stream for a distance of sixty miles. Nowhere south of the Missouri River have I seen any locality where a distinct line of separation could be drawn between the upper and lower series, and it is probable that this line will be best shown on the Upper Missouri of any portion of the West. The break here is quite plain, lithologically, and so far as the organic remains are concerned, our ex- plorations have not yet been able to secure a single species that passes from one to the other. The next important feature in the geology of the West are the great lake basins, which seem to set in the older forma- tions and in each other like dishes, and these are most properly called basins. The principal one is the Fort Union, or Great Lignite Group, which forms the transition group from thestrictly marine condition of the cretaceous period to the epoch of the numerous fresh-water lakes which were scattered all over the country west of the Mississippi. Now that the attention of explorers has been called to this remarkable system of lakes, I have no doubt they will be found to have existed all over the western portion of the continent, from the extreme north to the far south. In the chapter by Dr. Newberry on the ancient lakes of the West there is a most graphic description, to which the reader is referred. The following general section conveys a clear idea of the different groups, so far as they were known, up to the time of its first publication in the proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences, December, 1861. As these groups will be frequently referred to in this report as well as suc- ceeding reports, and as each year’s explorations extends their area or adds new facts to our knowledge of them, it will be a matter of interest. General section of the tertiary roéks of Nebraska. : E z Be Names. sf Subdivisions. 3 Localities. gs ° Sen 1 es S ate H 3 Feet. Loup River | Fine loose sand, with some layers of lime- | 300t0400 | On Loup fork of Platte River, from living species. Also Helix, Physa, Platte. Succinea, probably of recent species. All fresh-water and land types. White Riv-| White and light-drab clays, with some | 1,000 Bad Lands of White River, beds. stone; contains bones of Canis, Felis, Cas- extending north to Niobrara || ¢ tor, Equus, Mastodon, Testudo, &c., some River, and south to an un- a of which are scarcely distinguishable known distance beyond the | ¢ a er Group. beds of sandstone and local layers of | or more. under the Loup River beds, limestone. Fossils: Oreodon, Titanothe- on Niobrara, and across the rium, Cheropotamus, Rhinoceros, Anchi- country to the Platte. therium, Hyenodon, Machairodus, Tri- onyx, Testudo, Helix, Planorbis, Limnea, petrified wood, &c. All extinct. No brackish-water or marine remains. Wind River| Light-gray and ash-colored sandstones, 1,500 | Wind River Valley; also west deposits. with more or less argillaceous layers. to of Wind River Mountains. Fossils: fragments of Trionyx, Testudo, 2, 000 with large Helix, Vivipara, petrified wood, &c. Nomarine or brackish-water types. Fort Union | Beds of clay and sand, with round ferru- | 2,000 | Occupies the whole country | Miocene. oT) or Great ginous concretions, and numerous beds, | or more. around Fort Union, extend- | Lignite seams, and local deposits of lignite, great ing north into the British || _ Group. numbers of dycotyledonous leaves, possessions to unknown dis- | | = stems, &c., of the genera Platanus, Acer, tances; also southward to as Ulmus, Populus, dc., with very large Fort Clark. Seen under the 8 leaves of true fan palms. Also Helix, WhiteRiver Group on North 3 Melania, Vivipara, Corbicula, Unio, Os- Platte River above Fort || 5 trea, Corbula, and scales of TLepido- Laramie. Also on west side tus, with bones of Trionyx, Emys, Comp- of Wind River Mountains. —-—— «Se semys, Crocodilus, éc. = 94 _ GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. “The passage from the brackish to the fresh-water beds in the oldest. member of the tertiary of this region seems not to be marked by any material alteration in the nature of the sediments. Nor have we, so far as is yet known, any reasons for believing that any climatic or other important physical changes beyond the slow rising of the land, and the consequent recession of the salt and brackish water, took place during the deposition of the whole of the oldest member of the tertiary here, since we find a considerable proportion of the species of fresh-water mollusca ranging through this whole lower member. The principal dif- ference between the fossils of its upper and lower beds consists in the gradual disappearance of strictly brackish-water types as we ascend from the inferior strata. The entire series of Nebraska tertiary rocks con- sists of three or four groups, three of which, at least, (and probably four,) evidently belong to separate and distinct epochs. They usually occur in isolated basins, but have, with one exception, all been seen in such connection as to leave no doubts in regard to their order of super- position.” The most important thought evolved from the study of this Fort Union Group is the fact, which we now believe is well established, that it contains the history of the growth, step by step, of a most important period of our continent. The area which it occupies is not yet known, but every year it is extended north, south, and west. It is also charac- terized by numerous beds of coal, or lignite as it was formerly called, and, so far as the Upper Missouri is concerned, most of the coal is true lignite. Itis quite probable that the coal-making period began in the latter portion of the cretaceous era, and extended up into the tertiary. The observations of geologists in New Mexico and Utah point to the conclusion that large deposits of excellent coal occur in the upper cre- taceous series. The field for minute study in this direction is immense, and we must await the results of future explorations before we can de- cide positively. Another interesting feature connected with this group is the splendid series of fossil plants which it has yielded, showing the existence during the early tertiary period, on these now treeless plains, of forests ofalmost subtropical character and luxuriance. Dr. Newberry, the celebrated geologist and botanist, has already described more than fifty species of plants from this group, which were collected on the Yellow- stone and Missouri Rivers, many of them indicating forests of huge growth. Among them are not less than eight species of Populus, (pop- lars,) four species of Platanus, a sycamore, and a species of fan palm, the leaves of which must have had a spread of nearly twelve feet. The very interesting remarks of Dr. Newberry in this connection will be read with pleasure and instruction by every student of geology : These fossils are generally well preserved in a calcareo-argillaceous rock of a light- drab color, upon which the leaves are delineated with a distinctness that renders them pleasant objects of study, as well as attractive specimens for the cabinet. They are usually detached with their petioles in such numbers and forms as indicate maturity, and a common cause of fall, such as an annual frost. The mollusks associated with them show that they were deposited in the sediment which accumulated at the bottom of some fresh-water stream or lake, and they are generally spread out so smoothly and so entire, that it is evident no violence, not even the action of a rapid current, could have been attendant upon their deposition. The sediment which inclosed them was usually very fine; a fact also indicative of a tranquil state of the water in which they were suspended. The explorations of Dr. Hayden prove that this miocene lignite formation occupies the beds of extensive lakes, which filled deep basins on the surface of the continent when it had but recently emerged from the eretaceous sea. As has been remarked elsewhere, the lower members of the series contain a few estuary shells, showing the access of salt water at the period of their formation ; but during the deposition of by far the greater portion of these beds, the water of the ocean was entirely excluded from GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 95 “the basins in which they accumulated. By tracing the outline of these deposits, Dr. Hayden has demonstrated that sheets of fresh water once covered surfaces in this por- tion of the continent which, in extent, rivaled the great chain of fresh-water lakes which exist elsewhere in our country at the presentday. There is, therefore, every rea- son to believe that the remains of ligneous plants which compose this collection were derived from trees which grew along the shores of the lakes and streams of the tertiary continent; that then, as now, alternations of seasons prevailed, by which the foliage | of these trees was periodically detached, and that, falling into the waters beneath, or near them, and sinking to the bottom, they were enveloped in mud precisely as leaves ' of our sycamores, willows, oaks, &c., accumulate at the bottom of our streams and . lakes at present. ‘ _ In comparing the group of plants here presented to us with those now living upon the surface of the earth, any one will be at once struck with the resemblance which they present to the flora of the temperate zone, and more particularly with that of our own country. In their study I have constantly found that on making comparisons with the plants of remote, and especially tropical countries, an entire want of resem- blance or affinity at once discovered itself, and the only instructive comparisons made have been with the present vegetation of our country, that of the miocene tertiaries of Europe, and with the living plants of China and Japan. There is every reason to be- lieve that future observations will make immense additions to this flora, and satis- factory comparisons and generalizations will only be possible when a far more com- plete series of its plants can be subjected to study. It is also true that as yet little other than the leaves of these plants have been collected and employed in the deduc- tionsmadefromthem. From the character of the sediments which inclose these leaves, it is quite certain that the fruit and seeds are also preserved in the strata from which they were derived; but as they are less conspicuous and noticeable than the leaves, they are little likely to be found unless especially sought, and it will only be when they are made the special objects of searchthat they will be discovered, and lend their import- ant assistance in the solution of the problems which the leaves present. For the want of such information as these organs would supply, some of the material included in the collection does not now admit of satisfactory classification, and the references of some of the leaves to the genera under which they are placed must be regarded as pro- visional and liable to modification by further research. Quite a number of these plants are, however, so largely represented in the collection, so well preserved, and so clearly allied to the genera and species with which we are familiar, that they constitute fair material from which to infer the general characters and affinity of the flora of which they form a part. In this list may be mentioned the Glyptostrobus, of which the stems, bearing the leaves of different forms, the cones and the sterile capitula are all present, and so closely resemble the specimens described by Professor Heer from the miocene of Europe, that they might also be considered the originals from which his figures were taken. The living analogue of this is G. heterophyllus of China. The Taxodium now described is evidently a close analogue of Taxodium dubium of the miocene of Europe; differing from that well-known species only in the uniform round- ing of the bases and summits of the leaves. The fossil which has been doubtfully referred to Sequoia Langsdorfii would probably be regarded by foreign botanists as identical with that species, but for the reason given in the remarks upon that plant, it seems to me quite doubtful whether it was a Sequoia, and more probable that it was a Taxodiwm allied to our deciduous cypress. The great fan palm (Sabal Campbelli) collected by Dr. Hayden seems to be a repre- ‘sentative of Sabal major of the European tertiaries, and Sabal palmetto of our Southern States. From both these, however, it is distinguished by the large number of folds in the leaves, and from S. major by its flat, unkeeled petiole. The plate now given of this species represents the under surface of the leaf and petiole, but the collection also con- tains fragments showing the upper surface; and in the collections of the northwestern boundary commission are specimens obtained from the coast near Frazer’s River, which exhibit in fine preservation the upper surface of the base of the leaf and a large portion of the petiole. From these latter specimens the species was originally described in the journal of the Boston Natural History Society. The numerous species of Populus, of which figures are now given, will not fail to attract the attention of those whose interest runs in this direction. Several of them seem to be new to science, and show, for the most part, a greater affinity with the for- eign poplars, P. alba, &c., than with the specimens more common on this continent, though a single one, P. genatrix, evidently belongs to the group of which our balsam poplar may be taken asa type. The little species described under the name P. rotun- difolia presents some anomalies in form and structure as compared with most of our poplars, but its resemblance to another species contained in this collection, P. elliptica, and one contained in the collection of the Northwest Boundary Commission, which I described under the name P. flabellum, have induced me to class them together. Among living species it has a striking analogue in Populus pruinosa now growing in Songaria. The several species of Platanus which the collection contains form a striking and in- 96 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. teresting portion of this group of plants, and all seem to be quite distinct from the fossil species hitherto described, or any now living. Of our American sycamores, the leaves of P. occidentalis are much more toothed, while those of P. racemosa are more deeply lobed than any of these. P. aceroides, a species from the tertiaries of Europe, is more closely allied to our living ones than these seem to be. The largest and finest of those now described (P. nobilis,) in its smoothness of surface, crowded and parallel nervation, departs more widely from the typical species of Platanus than the others, and has more the appearance of a tropical plant. An extensive series of comparisons has, however, suggested no affinities closer than those with the living, Platanus, and I have little doubt that in these leaves, of which the collection contains a large num- ber; we have representatives of the noblest and most beautiful species of the genus. Two of the species of Corylws present no characters by which they can be distin- guished from the two now distributed over the temperate portions of our continent (C. rostrata and C. Americana,) and I have, therefore, not felt justified in considering them distinct. The Carya, figured, seems to me clearly to belong to this genus, and to be closely allied to one of our living species. The Tilia also is not far removed from 7, heterophylla, one of our southern living species; while the Negundo, Sapindus, &c., seem to be the representatives of the genera and species now growing near the regions from which these fossils come. From this flora, considering it the analogue and progenitor of that which now occu- pies our territory, we miss some important elements, and such as we may confidently expect will be supplied by future collectors. Among the most striking of these deficiencies may be mentioned Acer, Quercus, Magnolia, Liriodendron, Liqudambar, Sassafras &c., some of which, as we know, began their life upon the continent during the creta- ceous period, and all of them were members of the miocene flora of the Old World. Liquidambar, Quercus, and Magnolia occur in the pliocene beds of New Jersey, Magnolia and Quercus in the miocene strata of the Mississippi Valley; Fagus also, which is want- ing in the collection, has been obtained from the eocene by Mr. Lesquereux. On comparing this flora with that of the miocene rocks of the west coast, we find Smilax, Quercus, Salix, Oreodaphne, Acer, and Cinnamomwm—all of which are represented there—to be wanting here, while the Sabal, Glyptostrobus, and Taxodium are common to the two floras. Until further collections shall be made from the plant beds of the Upper Missouri, it is evident that the deductions from the negative evidence of absent genera and species must be regarded as unsatisfactory, but it is a fact, not without its significance, that the genus Cinnamomum, which was largely represented in both the cretaceous and ter- tiary deposits of the west coast, and in the eocene of the eastern portion of the conti- nent, should be entirely absent from the large amount of material collected by Dr. Hayden.* We are at least justified in saying that from the evidence now before us, we must conclude that the flora of the banks of these inland lakes of the miocene period was that of a temperate climate, not warmer than that of the middle portion of our South- ern States, and somewhat less warm than that of the eastern portion of our continent during the eocene period, or the western during the miocene age. The notes on some of the species contained in the collection made by Dr. Hayden, Sequoia Langsdorfii, Sabal campbellit, Onoclea sensibilis, &c., have a bearing on the general questions to which reference has been made in the preceding pages, but the occurrence of an Onoclea among these miocene plants, and a species which I cannot distinguish from the living one, seems to me a fact of so much importance as to require some addi- tional comments. The fern frond found by the Duke of Argyle in the leaf beds of the Island of Mull, and figured by Professor E. Forbes in the Journal of the Geological Society of London, (vol. vii, 1851, p. 103; Pl. Il, Figs. 2a, 2b,) and named by him Jelicites (?) hebridicus, is unquestionably identical with this. The specimen from which the figures I have re- ferred to were taken seems to have puzzled Professor Forbes somewhat, for he doubted if it was a fern; and Professor Heer, in his reference to the fossil plants of the Island of Mull, (Ilor. Tert., Helvet., vol. iii, p. 314,) says: “The most remarkable species is Felicites (?) hebridicus, a fern which by its nervation differs greatly from those of the continent.” Ail these facts give this fossil special interest, for, in addition to its rela- tions to its living representatives—of which we cannot but consider it the progenitor— it adds another to the list of plants common to the miocene strata of Hurope and America. Of these—either representative or identical species—the number is now so great that they plainly indicate a land connection between the continents at that period; and since many genera, and this, with probably some other species, at that time common to the Old and New Worlds, have disappeared from Europe while they continue to flourish here, it would seem to follow that these were American types which had colo- *If it is true, as now seems probable, that a large part of the Bellingham Bay deposits are cretaceous, that would account for this marked difference between the plants collected by Dr. Evans, Mr. Gibbs, &c., from those collected by Dr. Hayden. : . GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES, Si nized Europe by migration ; and that when their connection with their mother country was severed they were overpowered and exterminated by the present flora of Europe, which, as Professor Gray has shown, is mainly of North Asiatic origin. The fact to which reference has just been made, viz, the occurrence of Onoclea sensi- bilis on the Island of Mull, off the west coast of Scotland, while it has not been found in the tertiary beds of other parts of Europe, is indicative, so far as it goes, not only of an American connection during the miocene period, but of an American origin for that species; and so, by inference, of the other genera and species common to the two continents during that epoch. If this inference should be confirmed by future observations, we should then see how the eocene tropical or subtropical flora of Europe was crowded off the stage by the temperate flora of the miocene, which latter, accompanying a depression of tempera- ture, had migrated from America, while the eocene flora retreated south and east, and is now represented by the living Indo-Australian flora—characterized by its Hakew, Dynandre, Ucalypti, &c., &c., which form so conspicuous an element in the eocene flora of Europe. . This theory would account for the presence of these tropical forms in the lower miocene of Europe, while, so far as yet observed, they are entirely absent from the miocene flora of America. In Europe a few of the eocene forms lingered be- hind in the grand exodus of that flora, and mingled with the more boreal and occi- dental barbarians by which the country was overrun, while in America these which we now call Asiatic forms never had an existence. That this bridge between America and Europe was im a tefnperate climate is proved by the character of the plants which passed over it. On referring to a terrestrial globe it will be seen that by way of Greenland, Iceland, and the Hebrides, there are no very wide gaps to be spanned; but a connection by that route would carry us so far into the Arctic zone that none of the plants which we suppose to have made that journey could have withstood the cold if the climate had been the same as at present. We have con- elusive evidence, however, that it was not so, for on McKenzie’s River, Disco Island, on Iceland and the Island of Mull, we have, in the recurrence of parts of the very flora under consideration, proof, not only of a warmer climate at the far north during the miocene epoch, but that a part of the plants which formed the miocene flora of europe actually did travel that road; at least, that they visited all these localities, and, in the buried remains of generations which were never to see the promised land, left us imper- ishable records of the reality of this migration. That we cannot, without further study, assign a cause for this great change of climate in the northern part of our continent, is no proof against its existence, for the facts still remain ; the cause of the phenomena is simply a thing to be learned. Several pos- - sible causes might be mentioned, but of those which suggest themselves, the deflection of the Gulf Stream seems to me the most natural, simple, and best to account for an elevation of the temperature of Greenland, Iceland, &c. Whether this cause would be sufficient to account for all the phenomena is at least doubtful. A diminution of the land surface at the north, if it could be proved, would help to solve the enigma. Prob- ably several causes conspired to produce this effect, but they were apparently local, or at least terrestrial, as a cosmical cause, producing a general elevation of temperature on the earth’s surface, would have given us a tropical flora on the Upper Missouri, whereas we find in the miocene flora there, as yet, really no tropical plants. There is one other basin near the sources of the Missouri River which has already yielded many fossils of great interest, but which seems to be isolated from the others. This is what I have called the Judith basin, and inasmuch as it seems to be one of the ancient lake deposits, and characterized by a peculiar group of organic remains, I will designate the strata as the Judith Group. The sediments do not differ materially from those of the Fort Union Group, and they contain impure beds of lignite, fresh water mollusca, and a few leaves of deciduous trees. But the most remarkable feature of this group is the number and variety of the curious reptilian remains, of which we have only yet caught a glimpse. There is probably no portion of the West that furnishes such a harvest of fossil remains and instructive geological facts as the coun- try bordering on the Missouri River, from the mouth of the Yellowstone to the foot of the mountains above the great falls of the Missouri; and as this country is reserved for examination the coming season, 1 will leave the obscurity which now invests it to be cleared in the next annual report. All the groups of rocks now known to occur iv. the Northwest are well shown along the flanks and among the foot-hil’s of the mountains. The 7G se 98 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. smaller ranges, as the Little Rocky, Judith, Bear’s Paw, and Belt ranges, form the most interesting studies. Asa rule, a central mass or nucleus of metamorphic rocks is elevated above the surrounding plain, and around these nuclei are exposed the Jurassic, triassic, carboniferous, and Potsdam rocks, in their order of sequence. Butnothing short of a topo- graphical survey, in connection with the geology, will make the struc- ture of this region clear to the scientific world. The Black Hills of Dakota will form one of the most interesting ~ studies on this continent. There is so much regularity in the upheaval that all obscurity is removed and all the formations known in the West are revealed in zones or belts around the granitic nucleus in their fullest development. A careful detailed topographical and geological survey of this range would be a.most valuable contribution to science. In all the western country I have never seen the cretaceous, Jurassic, triassic, or red-beds, the carboniferous and Potsdam rocks, so well exposed for study as around the Black Hills. . CHAPTER VIII. .* FROM OMAHA TO CHEYENNE. In the preceding chapter I have given a brief review of the geologi- cal formations of the Northwest, as revealed by that grand natural sec- tion, the valley of the Missouri River. We are now prepared to pro- ceed on our journey westward. . The city of Omaha is most beautifully located on the western bank of the Missouri River, on a second terrace, about fifty feet above the water- level of the river. Terraces of the kind alluded to form a peculiar fea- ture along the Missouri River and its tributaries, and are found from the foot of the mountains to its mouth, andin many instances they seem to afford most beautiful natural sites for cities. I will not, at this time, enter into an explanation of the causes which produce these terraces, but simply remark that they perhaps indicate oscillations of level in the surface, or the gradual recession of the: waters toward the sea, and that, far back in the past, each one of them has at one time formed the bed of the river. They also seem to indicate that formerly the Mis- souri carried to the ocean a vastly greater volume of water than at pres- ent. Another feature will at once catch the eye of the observing trav- eler, and that is the marvelous fertility of all this region. The wide grassy bottoms are black with rich vegetable matter to an almost inde- finite depth, while the upland terraces and hills are covered with a de- posit of yellow marl, varying from twenty to one hundred and fifty feet in thickness. There seems to be evidence that the ocean or a lake once extended up the valley of the Mississippi, and up the Missouri beyond the reach of tidal influences nearly to Fort Pierre, and that the myriads of mountain streams poured their fresh waters into the great arm of the sea, or estuary. These numerous streams, flowing through the soft -maris, sands, and clays of the great plain country, mingling 1 their sedi- ments in the waters, and deposited them in the bottom of this estuary. *In chapters VIII to XIII inclusive, numerous extracts have been taken from the text of a volume entitled “‘Sun-Pictures of Rocky Mountain Scenery,” and an article published in the proceedings of the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, Feb- ruary 19, 1869, by the writer. These papers necessarily have a very limited circulation, and as these official reports are designed for distribution far and wide among the people, this will be a sufficient excuse for introducing them in this connection. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 99 The channels of all the larger rivers had been marked out prior to this time, for we find that these superficial deposits reach their greatest thickness in the immediate valley of the Missouri River and thin out as we pass up the valleys of its tributaries on the east and west side, while they almost cease to appear near the mouth of White Earth River. The question at once occurs, at what time did this geographical con- dition of the country exist? We believe that it forms a part of what is called the quarternary period in geology, which, though very modern, geologically speaking, really extended far back .in the “past before the existence of man on this continent, judging from the evidence we have been able to secure up to the present time. If we examine the numer- ous cuts, or washed bluffs, whic] we. find everywhere, we shall discover a great variety of fresh-water and land sheils, as Helices, Paludinas, Succinneas, &e., and here and there the remains of the mastedon and elephant. In the year 1867, while prosecuting the geological survey of Nebraska, under the General Government, I obtained from these maris fine specimens of the molar teeth of the Hlephas americanus or Ameri- can elephant, ‘and the mastodon, MW. americanus. These remains of gigantic extinct animals are mingled with those of animals existing in this region at the present time, such as rabbits, mice, gophers, beavers, buffaloes, deer, &c., which have been found in great quantities. Nearly all the sheils are identical with living species ; which are abundant in some of the streams flowing into the Missouri and the Mississippi. In the banks of some of the little streams, oftentimes buried ten to twenty feet beneath the surface, are large accumulations of shells, as snails, fresh- water mussels, &c., while very few and perhaps none exist at the present time in the immediate vicinity. Sometimes, in the fine vegetable matter that accumulates along the Missouri River from the annual floods, can be seen bushels of minute snail shells, yet not a snail can now be found alive anywhere in that region. We account for this by some change in the physical conditions which were once very favorable for their exist- ence and increase. The waters of the little streams were far clearer and purer than at present. Now, at certain seasons of the year, they become so charged with sediment that molluscous life cannot exist. This is the case with the Missouri River from the foot of the mountains ‘to its mouth, and scarcely a shell can be found in its waters; but in some of its tributaries, as the Big Sioux, James, Vermillion, &c., that flow in from the north, there is the greatest abundance. ‘The traveler will very naturally inquire, why, with all this wonder- ful fertility of soil, these broad, grass-covered plains do not contain a suitable supply of forest trees. We will endeavor to answer this ques- tion in another place. He will find, as he travels over the State of Ne- braska, that the time is not very distant when portions of the country will be covered with beautiful artificial forests, and we will attempt to show that this is only a restoration of conditions that once existed far in the geological past. Before leaving the Missouri River I will refer briefly to an interesting phenomenon which [ shall work up in detail at some future time. The proofs of glacial action in the West are not common or very remarka- ble in their character; still they are shown to a certain extent, not only in the mountains but also in the plains. Along the Platte River, below Omaha, and on the Missouri, near the city, the carboniferous limestones have had their upper surface so thoroughly smoothed by glacial action that they can be quarried out and used for caps and sills without any further finish to them. And the process seems to have been carried on with wonderful uniformity, for the upper surface seems to be as level as: 2 100 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. if it had been wrought with aplumbline. There area few small grodves or scratches, and by means of a compass I ascertained the direction to be about 27° west of north, or about northeast and southwest. There seem also to be two sets of scratches crossing each other at different angles. It would appear, from the evidence we have, that all the limestones underneath the yellow marl and pebble deposits around Omaha, and south to the Platte River, were smoothed or planed off by immense masses of ice passing over them, for wherever these superficial deposits have been stripped, the upper rocky layers are planed off with remark- able smoothness. In. the mountains proper, the evidences of glacial action are not uncommon, especially owthe sides of the deep valleys and gorges, but the causes were local and operated when the temperature of the climate was much lower than it is at present. Westward from Omaha we wend our way among the rounded grassy hills which rise in wave-like undulations as far as the eye can reach in every direction. The first glance at such a scene strikes the stranger with astonishment at its wonderful beauty, but it soon becomes so mon- otonous that any flat plain or rugged mountain is a relief. About thirty miles to the westward the road passes out of the hills into the valley of the Platte, and the journey westward is one gradual ascent to the moun- tains, walled on either side by more or less abrupt hills or bluffs. Here we may stop for a while to discuss some of the more important geologi- cal features for the first one hundred miles of our route. The surface deposits over this area possess no small degree of interest, both in an economical as well as scientific point of view, Dut [ have already suffi- ciently explained their character. They seem, however, to occupy a very large area in this portion of Nebraska, concealing almost entirely the underlyi ing or basis rocks. The geology, therefore, becomes some- what obseure, - and can be studied only at a few outcroppings, from point to point. The principal exposures are along the Platte, where the river has cut a wide and deep channel through the surface of the country. he fact, however, that the strata are very nearly horizontal, that there are no upheavals nor mountain elevations to disturb the original posi- tions of the beds, aids us much in our investigations. We believe that the whole of Douglas County is underlaid by the limestones of the upper coal measures, with perhaps a moderate thickness of the rusty sand- stones of the lower cretaceous or Dakota Group lying above them in the western portion of the county. At the mouth of the Platte these coal-_ measure limestones are very conspicuous, and supply the greater por- tion of the building stones of this region. The dip, if any, is quite gen- tle toward the northwest, and at the mouth of the Elkhorn River the carboniferous limestones have passed beneath the water-level of the Platte, not to be seen again until we arrive at the eastern margins of the Rocky Mountains. Overlying these are the ferruginous sandstones which contain the impressions of deciduous leaves. Near the mouth of Elkhorn are some of the abrupt bluffs of this sandstone, and the soft, yielding nature of the rock has enabled the Indian to record on it his curious hieroglyphical history. Fig. 4 illustrates the sandstone bluffs as they occur on Little Blue River in the southern portion of Nebraska. The question often arises in the minds of visitors to this region, how the law of compensation supples the want of fuel in the absence of trees for that use. Many persons have taken the position that the Creator never made such a vast country, with a soil of such wonderful fertility, and rendered it so suitable for the abode of man, without storing in the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 101 earth beds of carbon for his needs. If this idea could be shown to be true in any case, we would ask why are the immense beds of coal stored away in the mountains of Pennsylvania and Virginia, while at the same time the surface is covered with dense forests of timber? Wenow know that this law does not apply to the natural world, and if it did, this western country would be a remarkable exception. The State of Ne- braska seems to be located on the western rim of the great coal basin of the West, and cnly thin seams of poor coal will probably ever be found. But in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, in Wyoming and Colorado, coal in immense quantities has been hidden away for ages, and the Union Pacific Railroad has now brought it near the door of every man’s dwelling. These Rocky Mountain coal beds will one day supply an abundance of fuel for more than one hundred thousand square miles along the Mis- souri River of the most fertile agricultural land in the world. Every acre of land in Eastern Nebraska is already in possession of the thriv- ing farmer, and some of the most beautiful farms in the West can now be seen there. Although comparatively new, it looks like an old settled country. Farm-houses and small villages meet the eye in every direc- tion, and the great interest which the more intelligent and enterprising citizens have taken in tree-planting is covering the once naked hills with the most elegant artificial groves. The time is not far distant when Nebraska will be noted all over the world for the grandeur and beauty of its agricultural portions. Being composed entirely of plain country, with rocks of comparatively modern age, all holding a horizontal posi- tion, or nearly so, without a single mountain range within its bounda- ries, Nebraska can never ke remarkable in any way for its mineral re- sources. It is true that it has its salt springs, Which are annually be- coming more important and valuable. These springs are located near Lincoln, the capital of the State, and the saline water flowing from them into Salt Creek has given character to quite an important tributary of the Platte for thirty miles or more. This stream flows through a most beautiful, rolling, fertile region, covered with splendid farms, and has a 102 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. deep channel, with steep muddy banks, a kind of forbidden object. Not @ being can drink its waters, nor until near its entrance into the Platte do they, by accession of little streams and springs, become sufficiently freshened for the use of animals. The valley of the Platte is a natural avenue through the country, from the foot of the mountains to the Missouri, and all the earthy mate- rials which could possibly have existed over this vast area, from the summits of the highest hills on either side, and I know not how much more, have, in the lapse of ages, been swept down into the Missouri River and then conveyed to the ocean, to be distributed over its bottom to form layers for the study of future geologists. We may arrive ap- proximately at the number of square miles of sediment which have been removed from this valley. It is at least five hundred miles in length, and from bluff to bluff will average more than four miles in width for the entire distance. Taking this low estimate as a basis, we have two thousand square miles of area literally carved out and carried away. We cannot compute the thickness of the sediment at less than one thou- sand feet, and it is altogether probable that it was much more. This vast change gives evidence of the tremendous forces of nature that have been continually at work all over this region. West of the mouth of the Elk Horn River the valley of the Platte expands widely. The hills on either side are quite low, rounded, and clothed with a thick carpet of grass. But we shall look in vain for any large natural groves of forest trees, there being only a very narrow fringe of willows or cottonwocds along the little streams. The Elk Horn rises far to the northwest in the prairie near the Niobrara, and flows for a distance of nearly two hundred miles through some of the most fertile and beautiful lands in Nebraska. Hach of its more important branches, as Mapie, Pebble, and Logan Creeks, has carved out for itself broad, finely-rounded valleys, so that almost every acre may be brought under the highest state of cultiva- tion. The great need here will be timber for fuel and other economical purposes, and also rock material for building. Still the resources of this region are so vast that the enterprising settler will devise plans to remedy all these deficiencies. He will plant trees, and thus raise his own forests and improve his lands in accordance with his wants and necessities. These valleys have always been the favorite places of abode for nu- merous tribes of Indians from time immemorial, and the sites of their old villages are still to be seen in many localities. The buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, and other kinds of wild game, swarmed here in the greatest numbers, and as they recede farther to the westward into the more arid and barren plains beyend the reach of civilization, the wild nomadic Indian is obliged to follow. Geese, ducks, and other kinds of wild fowl, with now and then a stray antelope or red deer, may yet be seen, and the enterprising hunter may treat himself to a large amount of toil and a small amount of game. The underlying rocks, as far west as Colum- bus and beyond, though very seldom visible, are well known to belong to the chalk period, and consist of yielding sands, clays, and chalky lime- stones. These soft rocks, so readily erumbling under the atmospheric influences, have given-a very gently-undulating and rounded appearance to the entire surface. One may travel for days in this region and not find a stone large enough to toss at a bird, and very seldom a bush suf ficient in size to furnish a cane. Yet this region is settling up with emigrants with great rapidity; railroads are now in progress of con- struction, or are in contemplation, and villages are springing up in nu- merous localities. The principal ones at the present time are Frémont GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 193 and Columbus. The latter, from its supposed central geographical posi- tion, has been regarded as the possible seat of the capital of the United States in case of “its removal to the West. Soon after leaving Columbus we:cross Loup Fork or Wolf River, an important branch of the Platte, which rises in the Sand Hills, one hun- dred.and fifty to two hundred miles to.the northwest, and drains a large area of country. dn the summer of 1857 I had the opportunity of fol- lowing it up from mouth to source in connection with an expedition under the command of Lieutenant (now General) G. K. Warren, United States Army. Its lower portion passes through an extremely fertile region, but: above the Pawnee Reservation the Sand Hills begin to mo- nopolize the country and render it unfit for settlement. We now pass the eastern shore of one of the most interesting and most wonderful of those great lake basins which are found all over the West from the Missouri River to the Pacific coast; there is no water in it at the present time, and its existence is only known to the student of geology. During the tertiary period it occupied an area of at least one hundred thousand, and very possibly one hundred and fifty thou- sand, square miles. It will thus be seen that our greatest northern lakes, of which we so proudly boast, are but ponds in comparison with some "that once existed in this mountain region. ‘The close observer will notice at once that he is passing into a district the rock formations of which are quite different from any that he has seen before. He finds, also, that he is passing beyond the signs of great fertility, luxuriant vegetation, fine far ms, and fields of grain, toa comparatively arid, sterile region; still, the broad bottoms of. the Platte are covered with a fair growth of eras, but the chances for the successful cultivation of crops. of any of the cereals are very small. The soil becomes too thin, sandy, and arid for the growth of anything more than a scanty vegetation. We might linger here for a moment and inquire into some of the causes that have produced this scantiness of vegetation and almost entire absence of trees over so large an area. There is quite a remark- able belt or zone of country along the eastern base of the Rocky Mount- ains, extending from the Arctic Sea far south to Mexico, upon which but a small amount of moisture ever falls. This has often been denom- inated the Great American Desert. In years past this belt was sup- posed to comprise the greater portion of the area lying between the Mis- souri River and the foot of the mountains, but every year as we know more and more of the country this belt becomes narrower and narrower, and as a continuous area it has already ceased to exist, even in imagina- tion. There are, however, large portions of the country that are com- paratively worthless and arid, which may be called barren or sterile. 1t is now pretty well understood that. the cause of the absence of timber in this great region is want of moisture. A very clear explanation of this subject, and one which seems in accordance with the facts, is given by Professor Dana in Silliman’s Journal, vol. 40, page 393. If we were to examine a rain chart we should find that where the forests are most luxuriant, as along the Atlantic coast in the southern portion of the Mississippi Valley, the greatest amount of rain falls annually—say fifty to sixty-five inches ; and as soon as we approach any of the interior basins of the western continent, or any portion of this dry belt, we observe that the amount of moisture diminishes to thirty, twenty, fifteen, ten, and in some cases to as low as five inches, annually. Again, along the Mis- souri River, where the vegetation is quite extensive and the forest trees abundant, we have twenty to thirty inches of rain; but as soon as we pass to the westward three hundred miles we have but ten or fifteen 104 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. inches. On the Pacific coast of Oregon and Washington, whose gigantic forests are celebrated all over the world, we find that from fifty-five to sixty-five inches of rain fall annually. We might multiply these illus- trations, but the evidence seems to be conclusive. There is another point that may be worthy of note here, and that is the prevailing impression among all the inhabitants of the West of a gradual change of climate by settlement and the cultivation of the soil. It is true, that over a width of one hundred miles or more along the Missouri River the little groves of timber are extending their area; that springs of water are continually issuing from the ground where none were ever known before; and that the ‘distribution of rain throughout the year is more equable. Such being the case, time may work import- ant changes, and settlements may at | some time cause a large portion of that belt which has hitherto been regarded as given up to sterility to become of value for the abode of man. The valleys of the Loup Fork and the Niobrara Rivers, although largely uninhabitable, are full of interest to the geologist. Located along these rivers is one of those grand cemeteries of extinct animals which have excited the wonder of intelligent men all over the world. Further to the northwest, on White Earth River, is another of these far-famed bone deposits. These two interesting localities bear such a relation to each other in the order of time and the relationship of the animals preserved in them, that they should be described in the same eonnection. I will therefore take the reader at once to the valley of White Earth River, near the southwestern base of the Black Hills, and there we shall behold one of the wildest regions on this continent. It has always gone by the name of “Bad Lands;” by the Canadian French as “ Mauvaises Terres ;” in the Dakota tongue, “ Ma-kod-si-tcha.” — These words signify a very difficult country to travel through, not only from the ruggedness of the surface, but also from the absence of any good water and the small supply of wood and game. In the summer the sun pours its rays on the bare white walls, which are reflected on the weary traveler with double intensity, not only oppressing him with the heat, but so dazzling his eyes that he is not unfrequently affeeted with temporary blindness. LI have spent many days exploring this region when the thermometer was 112° in the shade and there was no water suitable for drinking purposes within fifteen miles. But it is only to the geologist that this place can have any permanent attractions. He can wind his way through the wonderful catons among some of the grandest ruins in the world. Indeed, it resembles a gigantic city fallen to decay. Domes, towers, minarets and spires may be seen on every side, w hich assume a great variety of shapes when viewed in the distance. Not ‘unfrequently the. rising or the setting sun will light up these grand old ruins with a wild, strange beauty, reminding one of a city illumin- ated in the night when seen from some high point. The harder layers project from the sides of the valley or caton with such regularity that they appear like seats, one above the other, of some vast amphitheater. It is at the foot of these apparent architectural ruins that the curious fossil treasures are found. In the oldest beds we find the teeth and jaws of a Hyopotamus, a river horse much like the Hippopotamus, which must have sported in his pride in the marshes that bordered this lake. So, too, the Titanotherium,a gigantic pachyderm, was associated with a species of hornless Rhinoceros. These huge rhinoceroid animals appear at first to have monopolized this entire region, and the plastic, sticky clay of the lowest bed of this basin, in which the remains were found, seems to have formed a suitable bottom of the lake in which these thick- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 105 skinned monsters could wallow at pleasure. As we pass higher up in the sediments, we find the remains of a great variety of land animals mingled with those that were aquatic in their nature. In a bed of flesh- colored marl which is visible for a great distance, like a broad band in the sides of these washed hills, thousands of turtles were imbedded, and are. preserved to the present time with surprising perfection, the hard portions of them being as complete as when they were swimming about in these tertiary waters hundreds of thousands of years ago. They vary in size from an inch or two in length across the back to three or four feet. But one species has ever been discovered in this basin, and so far as we know these reptiles made up in numbers what they lacked in variety. Associated with the remains of the turtles, are those of a number of ruminants, all belonging to extinct genera. and possessing peculiar characters which ally them to the deer and the hog. Indeed, Dr. Leidy calls them ruminating hogs. Like the domestic species, they were provided with cutting teeth and canines, but the grinding teeth are constructed after the same pattern as those of all living ruminants. The feet of these animals were also provided with four toes as in the hog, and none of them possessed horns or antlers. They appear to have existed in immense numbers, and to have lived in great herds like the bison of the West. Remains of more than seven hundred individuals of one species have been already studied and described by Dr. Leidy. Their enemies were numerous wolves, hyzhodons and saber-tooth tigers. If we pass for a moment southward into the valleys of the Niobrara and Loup Fork, we shall find a fauna closely allied, yet entirely distinct from the one on White River, and plainly intermediate between that of the latter and of the present period; one appears to have lived during the middle or miocene tertiary period, and the other at a later time in what is called the pliocene. In the later fauna were the remains of.a number of species of extinct camels, one of which was of the size of the Arabian camel, a second about two-thirds as large, also a smaller one. The only animals akin to the camels at the present time in the western hemisphere are the llama and its allies in South America. Not less inter- esting are the remains of a great variety of forms of the horse family, one of which was about as large as the ordinary domestic animal, and the smallest not more than two or two and a half feet in height, with every intermediate grade in size. There was still another animal allied to the horse, about the size of a Newfoundland dog, which was provided with three hoofs to each foot, though the lateral hoofs were rudimental. Although no horses were known to exist on this continent prior to its discovery by Europeans, yet Dr. Leidy has shown that before the age of man this was emphatically the country of horses. Dr. Leidy has re- ported twenty-seven species of the horse family which are known to have lived on this continent prior to the advent of man—about three times aS Many as are now found living throughout the world. Among the carnivores were several foxes and wolves, one of which was larger than any now living; three species of Hyenodon—animals whose teeth indicate that they were of remarkably rapacious habits; also five animals of the cat tribe were found, one about the size of a small panther, and another as large as the largest wolf. Several of the Skulls of the tiger-like animals exhibited the marks of terrible conflicts with the cotemporary Hyznodons. Among the rodents were a porcupine, small beaver, rabbit, mouse, &e. The pachyderms, or thick-skinned animals, were quite numerous and of great interest, from the fact that none of them are living on this continent at the present time, and yet here we find the remains of sev- 106 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. eral animals allied to the domestic hog, one about the size of this animal, another as large as the African Fae AU arte and a third not much larger than the domestic cat. : Five species of the Rhinoceros roamed through these marshes, ranging from a small, hornless species, about the size ‘of our black bear, to the largest, which was about the sizeof the existing unicorn of India. No animals of the kind now inhabit the western hemisphere. Among the thick-skinned animals were the remains of a mastodon and a large elephant, distinct from any others heretofore discovered in any part of the world. Dr. Leidy says that “it-is remarkable that among the remains of mammals and turtles there are none of crocodiles. Where were these creatures when the shores of the ancient Dakotan and Nebraskan waters teemed with such an abundant provision of sa- vory ruminating hogs?” During the tertiary period Nebraska and Dakota were the homes of a race of animals more closely allied to those inhabiting Asia and Africa now, and from their character we may sup- pose that during that period the climate was considerably warmer than it is at present. The inference is also drawn that our world, which is usually called the new, is in reality the old world, older than the eastern hemisphere. Ever since the commencement of creation, constant changes of form have been going on in our earth. Oceans and mountains have disap- peared and. others have taken their place. Entire groups of animal and vegetable life Have passed away and new forms have come into exist- ence, through a series of years which no finite mind can number. To enable the mind to realize the physical condition of our planet during all these past ages is the highest end to be attained by the study of geological facts. It has been well said by an eloquent historian that he who calls the past back again into being, enjoys a bliss like that of creating. We may attempt to form some idea of the physical geography of this region at the time when these animals wandered over the country, and to speculate as to the manner in which their remains have been so beau- tifully preserved for our examination. We may suppose that here was a large fresh-water lake during the middle tertiary period; that it began near the southeastern side of the Black Hills, not large at first nordeep, but as a marsh or mud-wallow for the gigantic pachyderms that lived at the time; that as time passed on it became deeper and expanded its limits until it covered the vast area which its sediments indicate. We cannot attempt to point out in detail all the changes through which we may suppose, from the facts given us, this lake has passed, during the thousands of years that elapsed from its beginning to its extinction, time long enough for two distinct faune to have commenced their existence and passed away in succession, not a single species passing from one into the other. Even that small fraction of geological time seems infi- nite toa finite mind. We believe that the great range of mountains that now lies to the west of this basin was not as lofty as now; that doubtless the treeless plains were covered with forests or grassy meadows upon which the vast herds of gregarious ruminants cropped their food. Into this great lake on every side poured many little streams from broad valleys, fine ranging ground for the numerous varieties of creatures that existed at that time. Large numbers of fierce carnivorous beasts mingled with the multitudes of gregarious ruminants, constantly devour- ing them as food. As many of the bones, either through death by vio- lence or natural causes, were left in the valleys, they would be swept down by the first high waters into the lake and ‘enveloped in the sedi- © GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 107 ments at the bottom. As the gregarious ruminants came down to the little streams or by the shores of the lake to quench their thirst, they would be pounced upon by the flesh-loving Hyzenodon, Drepanodon, o1 Dinictis. It was probably near this place also that these animals would meet in fierce conflicts, the evidences of which remain to the present time in the cavities which the skulls reveal; one of these, of a huge cat, shows on either side the holes through the bony coveting which had partially healed before the animal perished, and the cavities seem to correspond in form and position with the teeth of the largest Hyzenodon. The remains of those animals which, from their very nature, could not have existed in great numbers, are not abundant in the fossil state, while those of the ruminants occur in the greatest abundance and are widely diffused in the sediments not only geographically, but vertically. The chances for the preservation of the remains of a species seem to depend upon the number of individuals that existed. The remains of ruminants already obtained comprise at least nine-tenths of the entire collection, while of one species, portions of at least seven hundred indi- viduals have been discovered. We might take examples from the ani- mals that exist in this region at the present time that would illustrate the point. The wolves watch the deer, antelope, and other feebler ani- mals as they go down to the little streams for water, and all over the wide bottoms their skeletons are distributed in a more or less perfect condition. Whenever a bison becomes too feeble by disease or age to offer a successful resistance, the wolves soon dispatch him, and his bones are left bleaching on the ground. In most cases these animals when pursued betake themselves to the water, where they are not unfrequently drowned, or dispatched on a sand-bar or island. Annually, thousands of buffaloes, in attempting to cross the Missouri River and some of its lagee tributaries on the ice as it is breaking up in the spring, are drowned. For many days their bodies are seen floating down the river by Fort Union or Fort Clark, and lodging on some of the islands or sand-bars fill the air with the stench of their decay. In the spring of 1857 thousands of their bodies floated down the Kansas River past Fort Riley and were carried into the Missouri River. These animalsare often mired in the marshes or the muddy shores of lakes or streams in great numbers. We know what vast numbers of the mastodon have been preserved in the Big Bone Licks of Kentucky,.and of the trish elk in the bogs of Ireland. We might instance hundreds of examples to show how easily these animals, roaming and feeding along the numerous Streams flowing into some great lake, could be transported in part or entire into the lake, and sinking to the bottom would be enveloped: in the muddy sediments. There is another interesting feature in regard to these remarkable fossils, and that is the beauty and perfection of their preservation; the bones are so clean and white and the teeth so perfect that, when ex- posed upon the surface, they present the appearance of having bleached only for a season. They could not have been transported from a great distance, neither could the waters have been swift and turbulent, for the bones seldom show any signs of having been water worn, and the nice sharp points and angles are as perfect as in life. I have dwelt thus long on the details of this great lake basin, not only on account of the © universal interest that invests it, and the wonderful treasures of the past which it has revealed to the world, but because its history is ap- plicable in the main to the numbers of the other fresh-water lake basins of the geological past which are distributed throughout the Rocky Moun- tain region. ~ 108 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Before leaving this subject, there is another interesting topic of in- quiry: why such a beautiful series of vertebrate remains should be so perfectly preserved in this lake deposit, and yet the remains of other forms of animal and vegetable life be almost entirely absent. The sedi- ments seem to be peculiarly adapted to the preservation of a full series of documents bearing upon the history of those times. And yet in the older beds, where the mammalian remains are most abundant, only one small species of snail, a land shell, is found preserved. Where is the evidence of the swarms of fishes that must have filled the streams and lakes of that time? Of the vegetable life, if any existed, only now and then a fragment of silicified w ood is found, and that, too, in the latest deposits. I am prepared to believe that the broad plains’ were, even at the time of the existence of these animals, as treeless as at present, yet I am quite unprepared to explain the almost entire absence of vegetable remains. We know that fresh-water shells, much like those existing in the little clear streams of the present time, as well as some remains of fishes, are found in some limestones on the summits of hills near Pinos Spring on the northern rim of the lake. Another interesting question occurs to me in this connection, how was it that a complete fauna, comprising more than forty species of ani- mals, was introduced upon the earth, lived through its legitimate period, entirely perished or was swept out of existence, and an entirely new fauna, comprising about the same number and variety, was again intro- duced in the same region? It, too, lived out its period of “existence, which must have been hundreds of thousands of years, and yet every one of this group of animals disappeared from the globe, leaving no- thing behind to tell the tale but fragments of their bony skeletons, acci- dentally enveloped in the sediment at the bottom of an estuary or lake. It will be seen at a glance that this is a fruitful topic for speculation, and I leave it with the reader. Some of the species of animals fouid in the latest deposits seem to have lived very nearly up to our present period. The horns of a deer and the bones of a sand-hill crane have such a modern aspect that the thought arises, where was man when these animals were roaming over this region? Recent investigations show quite conclusively that man was an inhabitant of Europe cotem- poraneously with many of the extinct animals of the quarternary period, but it is doubtful whether we have ever found any evidence that he lived at a very remote period on this continent. Indeed, so far as we know at present, the West is singularly silent as to the existence of man in what are now understood as pre-historic times. But let us move our camp further south and toward the Platte Valley again, and on our way just glance at a desolate and almost barren but interesting region called the Sand Hills. They cover an area of about twenty thousand square miles on both sides of the Niobrara River, and are composed of loose, moving sand, which is blown by the winds into round, conical hilis with considerable regularity. As far as the eye can reach the surface presents the appearance of a multitude of round tops, some of them scooped out by the whirling winds so as to resemble cra- ters. These sand hills have been from time immemorial a favorite resort of the buffalo, which feeds upon the scanty but very nutritious grasses in the little valleys and intervals among these hills. There is, for the most part, an abundant supply of water in the little lakes that are scat- tered throughout this region. Some of them are alkaline in the highest degree, and the fresh can be detected from the salt lakes by the pres- ence or absence of vegetation in and around the borders. These hills are sometimes protected from the winds by a considerable giowth of GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 109 vegetation on their sides, especially the ‘“Yuccas, or Spanish Needles,” which seem to grow luxuriantly in these almost soilless regions. No portion of the country is so barren or soilless as to be destitute of its peculiar vegetation, and even those portions that appear most sterile nH == = —— — aE Ss Sand Hills on the N jiobrara River. have some forms, which flourish there best, and would perhaps perish if transported to a richer district. In the ‘‘Bad Lands” the soft, suc- culent cactus, which’ draws most of its nourishment from the atmos- phere, often covers the bald, dome-like hills as if it would conceal their nakedness and sterility. These large moving bodies of sand are not uncommon in the West; in the North Park there is quite a large area completely covered with them, and as the surface reilects the light of the sun’s rays, they appear in the distance like somg extensive lake. Near the Mosca Pass in the San Luis Valley is another group of sand hills which is quite conspicuous. The winds seem to delight in playing their antics in these places, throwing up the sand in the most beautiful wave-like furrows. Sometimes the strong winds that sweep over these vast plains will fill the air with a storm of sand so as to impede the traveler’s progress for the time, and again they whirl it in circular col- umns far out of sight. We shall now continue our way up the valley of the Platte with a good deal of rapidity. The country is monotonous, and yet now and then a fact of some interest might be gathered. We soon pass into what is called the alkali district, where the ground is covered in places with a white efflorescence, which looks in the distance like snow. Ifthe traveler were to ascend the high hills that border the valley and cast his eyes in every direction, he would see nothing but a gently rolling prairie, without a tree or shrub as far as they could reach. No cozy farm-houses, with all the signs of cultivated fields, greet the eye; no groves of timber dot the landscape. For more than two hundred miles along the valley of the Platte it would be difficult to find wood enough to kindle a fire. Fuel for the supply of Fort Sedgwick and the city of Julesburg, during the winter of 18656, when it was in its glory, was hauled from the moun- tains near Denver, Colorado, a distance of more than two hundred miles, at a cost from one to two hundred dollars per cord. a) 110 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. The surface of the country is sometimes weathered by atmospheric agencies into peculiar fantastic shapes. The rock formations are en- tirely composed of the whitish and yellowish-white clays, marls, and sandstones of the more recent beds of the great tertiary lake basin. a = = 5 C2 im TOE Ta G— > _ The most striking examples are in the vicinity: of Scotts Bluff and Chimney Rock, which have been noted landmarks for years. The surface is here washed out into the form of domes, towers, churches, and fortifications, and it is hardly possible to persuade oneself that the hand of art has not been busy here. Chimney Rock shoots up its tall, white spire from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet. The strata are perfftly horizontal, and, therefore, we may infer that the surface of the whole country was originally on a level with the summit at least, and that these landmarks are monuments left after erosion. These picturesque views south of White River are not extensive, although on both sides the north and south forks of the Platte they occur in cer- tain localities. A few fossil turtles and the bones of some huge animal, probably the elephant. or mastodon, have been washed from the bluffs. At Antelope Station, near Pine Bluffs, about four hundred and seventy miles west of Omaha, a collection of curious bones was taken out of a well sixty-eight feet below the surface, which were at once regarded by the people in the vicinity as human remains. These bones were dis- tributed throughout the country and furnished many a sensational par- agraph for the daily press. About two years ago, Professor Marsh, in visiting this country, made inquiry for them, and succeeded in obtaining a few fragments, from which he determined the existence of a small species of horse, which must have been originally about two or two and a half feet high. From amass of sediment sixty-eight feet below the surface, ten feet in diameter and six feet thick, Professor Marsh obtained a quantity of fragments of bones belonging to seventeen different species of animals. | In it were those of four varieties of the horse family, one of which was as large as the living domestic horse; one or two species of rhinoceros; GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Jil an animal allied to a camel, and one resembling a hog; two carnivores, one about as large as a lynx, the other greater than any living carnivore, even the lion. Such a quantity of remains, so varied in species and stowed away in so small a space, has never been found before. What a world of fossil treasures could be gathered if the whole area south of the Platte and between the Platte and White Rivers were care- fully examined by men of science! And even then, only those which are exposed to the eye of the geologist by atmospheric agencies would be found, while the great mass of rock material which underlies the entire surface i is equally filled with them, and undoubtedly contains some forms that will never be recorded in the annals of science. If we now take the cars@ve shall pass over asimilar plain country until we reach Cheyenne, an important and rather remarkable city, near the foot of the mountains, five hundred and sixteen miles west of Omaha, one thousand two hundred and fifty nine miles east from Sacramento, and one hundred and ten miles north from Denver. ‘This city is located in the open plain, near Crow Creek, a branch of the Platte, the hills as- cending gently back to the mountains proper, which are plainly visible from the town. On the 4th day of July, 1867, there was but one house in this place; within three months there were at least three thousand inhabitants, with the bustle and confusion of a city of ten thousand. Itis now improving rapidly, and promises a suecessfulfuture. Again, looking at the profile section of the railroad, we find that Omaha is nine hundred feet above the sea-level. At Cheyenne we have reached an elevation of five thousand nine hundred and thirty-one feet, yet the ascent has been so gradual over an apparently level plain, that we have not for a moment realized that we were ascending at the rate of nearly ten feet to the mile. If the traveler has observed closely, he will have seen that nature had already performed most of the work of the road, and that there was not much more to be done but to lay the track, and that for the entire dis- tance of more than five hundred miles there were no rock beds to blast. Before concluding this chapter, we will throw a momentary glance back upon the ground over which we have just passed. Nebraska may be divided into two portions—agricultural and pastoral. The eastern part contains some of the most beautiful, gently-rolling, fertile agricul- tural lands in America, the very garden spot of the country. But the western part is a treeless, almost waterless plain ; yet, thick, low, sweet, nutritious grasses cover the entire surface, and for the raising of large herds of stock, as horses, cattle and sheep, this country is admirably adapted. Not more than fifteen to twenty inches of moisture fall here annually; the snows of winter are very light and soon pass away, the winds rapidly gathering them into the valleys or gorges, leaving vast areas entirely bare. ‘The grasses, instead of decaying as in all countries with a humid climate, slowly dry up, retaining all their nutritious quali- ties, and thus continue until April or May, so that all kinds of stock thrive throughout the winter in the open fields without other care than that of the herdsman. The time cannot be remote when Western Ne- braska, also Wyoming and Colorado, will be appreciated as a wool- ' growing region far surpassing any portion of the Kast. In the autumn many of the streams of the plains dry up for the most part, although at long intervals water may be found. In ascending the valley the water of Lodge Pole Creek will appear and disappear almost like magic. Here We find it a swift-running stream several yards in width, and then for a considerable distance nothing is to be seen but its dry and dusty bed. Even the broad Platte has so far forgotten itself for several seasons as to cease to be arunning stream. It is not uncom- 112 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. mon for a river to be considerably larger toward its source than at its mouth. Many of the important streams that flow from the Black Hills into the Missouri are lost on their way through the plains. This is especially the case with rivers in the arid regions of New Mexico and Arizona. CHAPTER IX. OVER THE FIRST RANGE. In the preceding chapter I have endeavor@l to convey some idea of the remarkable character of the great fresh-water lake basin which occupies so great an area in Nebraska. We have seen that the earbon- iferous limestones pass beneath the lower cretaceous sandstones near the mouth of the Elk Horn, about thirty miles west of Omaha; that the cretaceous rocks extend westward about eighty miles farther, where they are overlapped by the marls and clays of the White River Group. These form an unbroken mass to the very margins of the first range of mountains west of Cheyenne. Up to this point our ascent has been so gradual that it is har dly perceptible to the common observer, and yet the grade has been upward at the rate of nearly twelve feet per mile. Tf we examine the excellent profile of the Union Pacific Railroad con- structed under the supervision of the distinguished engineer, General G. M. Dodge, we shall find that Omaha, the eastern terminus of the road, is nine hundred and sixty-six feet above tide-water. At Cheyenne, which is five hundred and seventeen miles west of Omaha, the eleva- tion is six thousand and seventy-two feet; west of Chey enne the as- cent increases with great rapidity; at Sherman Station, near the summit of Laramie range, the height is eight thousand two hun- dred and forty-two feet; so that within a distance of thirty-three miles we have a difference of elevation of two thousand one hun- dred and seventy feet, or an ascending grade of nearly sixty-six feet per mile. We have not alluded to the scenery in this vicinity from the fact that to the ordinary traveler there is little thatis attractive. To most persons the whole country would appear like a barren waste. But if GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 135 we look far away southward toward the sources of the North Platte in the North Park, we shall see some lofty ranges of mountains with peaks that loom up in ’ solitar y grandeur. Hk Mountain is a noted landmark, and seems to rise out of the plain as if it were an isolated peak. Iti is, however, a portion of the Medicine Bow range, partially cut off from the northern end. It is surrounded by rolling prairie, which is covered the greater portion of the year with splendid grass. Hence all the river valleys in this portion of the mountains have been noted places for game of all kinds, as elk, deer, mountain sheep, &c. Fabulous sto- ries are also told of the mines of gold and silver which have been dis- covered. rests the blue limestone, thirty to forty feet thick; then variegated sandstones; and the red beds in the distance. From the tops of these ridges one can see numbers of both synclinal and monoclinal valleys. There is one monoclinal valley, three to five miles wide, which stretches far into the northwest, a smooth and level grassy prairie. All these ridges have suifered great eroston, and the Silurian beds are planed and grooved even to a greater extent than the more recent beds. Everywhere the evidences of erosion during the drift period are on a gigantic scale. A fine sulphur spring from under the bed of blue limestone gives name to the station. The water is clear and possesses excellent medi- cinal properties. : Some very interesting specimens of native copper have been found in this ridge, which at one time produced no small degree of excitement. among the inhabitants. The copper ore was found, on more carefal investigation, to be of no special economic value. It seems to occur as a sort of chemical precipitate in the reddish triassic quartzite near the summit of the ridge; sometimes it is diffused through the reck in green streaks in the form of green carbonate; sometimes coating largo masses of calespar; there are also very pretty dendritic impressions. Near the copper mines are some heavy beds of red oxide of iron, which must at some period become of great value to the country. The beds are four to six feet thick, and though they appear to be local, yet a great amount of ore could be taken out at comparatively small cost. It is an interesting fact that, although we are continually traveling across what is usually regarded as the summit of the great Rocky Mountain range, six thousand to seven thousand feet above tide-water, yet this is the only locality along the road, between the Laramie Mount- ains and the Wasatch Range, in Weber Valley, where we meet with rocks older than Jurassic, and, except for a few miles near Lake Como, none older than cretaceous. Rocks of ancient date seem to be the ex- ception, while those of quite modern age, geologically speaking, prevail. Leaving Rawlings’ Springs Station, the road passes through an anti- clinal opening in the ridge, the south side inclining southeast 10° to 12°. The lowest beds are yellowish-gray quartzose sandstones, overlaid by carboniferous limestones. Still farther, south of the road, may be seen the rounded hills composed of the cretaceous and tertiary beds, but the intermediate formations, Jurassic and triassic, which are exposed on the north side, are concealed. Perhaps the best example of an anticlinal is seen soon after passing throngh the opening in the north side of the road. The valley trends a little west of north, or northwest. It does not show as distinctly on the north side of the road, with the exception of the fragment of a ridge which is conspicuous on the south side of the opening. Very soon the coal beds of the lower eocene appear on either GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 139 side, inclining at a moderate angle, at first 15°, On the north side there is a plain, synelinal valley, extending off to the southwest. Pass- ing across this anticlinal, we come out into an expansive, valley-like plain, with a long cretaceous ridge extending off to the southeast, while on the north side there is a low ridge of sandstone, with the str ata again inclining to the northeast and trending to the northwest, thus forming an open sage plain. The formations on the north side are mainly the coal-bearing strata, with cretaceous clays cropping out at the base. On the south side the cretaceous beds seem to extend off to the southward as far as the eye can reach. In the distance the ridges which form the high hills near Bridger’s Pass are distinctly visible, so that it is easy to connect our south belt of exploration with the middle oné. It be- comes still easier west of Separation, where the beds of the Washakie group are nearly or quite horizontal, and extend undisturbed across the country for nearly one hundred miles, from the Seminole and Sweetwater ranges on the north to the high hills of Bridger’s Pass and the ranges to the southwest. The lower eocene, or coal beds, seem to dip from the mountains to the southward, if we glance across the country south of the road; and gradually to the north of the road they flex around so as to incline from the Seminole and Sweetwater Mountains. As usual, the lower tertiary beds are quite variegated in color—yellow, rusty -yel. low, rusty-brown, and drab—presenting an exceedingly uncomely look. In the distance to the north the Seminole range can be seen quite clearly, with a trend about northwest and southeast. Near Separation, about ten miles west of Rawlings’ Springs, a coal bed eleven feet thick has been opened, probably the same as the one opened at Carbon, and near Rock and Cooper Creek. The dip is nearly west about 10°. The opening being at the summit of the hiil, all the coal will have to be drawn up a slope, and the difficulties of drainage will be greatly increased. The coal is of excellent quality. Above and below the coal is the usual drab indurated clay. Below the clay is a bed of gray ferruginous sandstone. On the summits of the hills in the vicinity are layers of fine-grained siliceous rocks with arenaceous concretions, some of them containing impressions of deciduous leaves. The tertiary beds lie in ridges running across the country. The beds are uplifted in every direction. A more desolate region I have not seen in the West. Nothing seems to grow but sage bushes, and in some of the valleys they grow very large. All over the surface of the hills and in the plains are great quantities of water-worn pebbles. Many of these valleys were scooped out by an amount of waters far in excess of any known at the present day in this region. Some of the widest and deep- est do not now contain any running stream. The layers of fine-grained sandstone on the hills in this vicinity con- tain more or less impressions of leaves, like Populus and Platanus, in a good state of preservation. West of Separation the dip of the tertiary beds diminishes. Before reaching Creston, about thirteen miles west of Separation, they lie nearly horizontal, and all the surrounding country presents more the appear- ance of a plain. At that station the Union Pacific Railroad Company have unk awell one hundred feet or more deep. At adepth of eighty- three feet, the workmen passed through four feet of excellent coal and four feet of coaly shale. The coal was of about the same quality as that near Separation, probably from the same bed. If so, coal at a depth of about eighty feet must underlie an area of at least one hundred square miles. In this well, beds of bluish, arenaceous clay 140 ~ GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. were passed through first, then black clay, with carbonaceous matter throughout. Just over the coal was fine, bluish, indurated clay, with — very distinct impressions of leaves, among which the most abundant | were Populus and Platanus. The railroad cuts and the valleys them- selves show very distinctly the character of the intermediate softer beds. The erosion has been so great in this country, and all hills and canons are so covered with debris, that it is almost impossible to obtain a clear idea of the color and composition of the intermediate softer beds. The harder sandstones, &¢., project from the surface, and are accessible to the eye without much excavation. Marine and fresh-water tertiary formations occupy the whole country along the line of the railroad to Quaking Asp Summit, west of Fort Bridger, and also to Salt Lake to a greater or less extent. : From Creston to Bitter Creek Station, a distance of forty-five miles, the beds are mostly fresh-water, and hold a nearly horizontal position. West of Bitter Creek we come again upon marine tertiaries, dipping 3° to 6° nearly east. We have, therefore, between Rawlings’ Springs and Green River, a sort of synclinal basin, the marine tertiary dipping west about 10° on the east side, and the same marine beds inclining east 3° to 6° on the west side; while at Table Rock, Red Desert, and Washa- kie, a considerable thickness of purely fresh-water beds are filled with fresh-water shells Unio Washakeei, Goniobasis Simpsoni, and Viviparus. Table Rock is a square butte lifting itself about four hundred feet above the level of the road, composed of the beds of a sandstone which in many instances is little more than an aggregation of fresh-water shells. After leaving Bitter Creek Station the hills approach nearer to the road, and show the characteristic features of the marine tertiary again. Seams of coal appear in many places, while yellow arenaceous marls, light-gray sand with indurated clay beds, and more or less thick layers of sandstone occur. The dip varies from 3° to 6° east or nearly east. At Black Butte Station, on Bitter Creek, about fifteen miles west of Bitter Creek Station, there is a heavy bed of yellow ferruginous sand- stone, irregular in its thickness and in part concretionary, and full of rusty concretions of sandstones of every size, from an inch to several feet in diameter, mostly spherical, and when broken revealing large cavities filled with oxide of iron loam. This sandstone, one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in thickness, forms nearly vertical bluffs, and is worn by atmospheric agencies into the most fantastic shapes. Above it are sands, clays, sandstones of every texture, and coal beds, one of which, near the summit of the hiils, has been burned, baking and melting the superincumbent beds. I found in several layers the greatest abundance of deciduous leaves, and among them a fine palm leaf, probably the same species which occurs in the coal beds on the Upper Missouri, named by Dr. Newberry, Sabal Campbelli. There is also a thin seam near one of the coal beds made up of a small species of Ostrea. The railroad passes down the Bitter Creek Valley, which from its chan- nel through the tertiary beds, and on each side high walls can be seen inclining at moderate angles. As we pass down the valley toward Green River, the inclination brings to view lower and lower beds. These are all plainly marine tertiaries, while an abundance of impressions of plants are found everywhere. No strictly fresh-water shells occur, but seams of Ostrea of various species. In the final report, some detailed sections of these tertiary beds will be given. Yet I am convinced that local sections are not very import- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 141 ant. The character is so changeable that two sections taken ten miles apart would not be identical, and in some cases not even very similar. The more recent the age ot formations the less persistent seém to be their lithological characters over extended areas. From Black Buttes to Point of Rocks the dip is southeast. About five miles west the principal bed of gray-brown sandstone rises to the surface. The railroad runs through what I have termed a monoclinal valley, that is, an interval between two upheaved ridges inclining in the same direction, the high outcropping hills on the north side, and the sloping portion on the other. The principal coal beds lie above the massive bed of sandstone, which forms a line of separation between the ‘clays above, which are full of beds of coal, and the alternate beds of sandstone and clay beneath, in which there are few seams of coal. The tendency of this sandstone to weather into curious forms and cavities has given peculiar names to localities, as ‘‘ Hermit’s Grotto,” “ Caves of the Sand,” “‘ Water-washed Caves of the Fairies,” all of whick exhibit most singular, rounded cavities worn out of the sandstone, sometimes extending into the bluff walls several feet. We may suppose that most of these cavities originally contained a spherical concretion which first determined their present rounded shape, and that the long- continued action of the wind and storms has enlarged them to their present dimensions. Perhaps, also, the trickling of water, or the process of freezing and thawing, may have performed a part in disintegrating the particles of sand. Here, too, we find preserved in the rocks the greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm, maple, &c., and among them some species which are found in the coal forma- tions on the Upper Missouri. Among the fossil plants found is a spe- cies of fan-palm, which, at the time it grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous dimensions, sometimes having a spread of ten or twelve feet. These gigantic palms seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of these ancient forests. At almost every station, from Bitter Creek to Rock Springs, coal mines are opened, and an abundant supply for railroad purposes can be easily obtained. At one locality, near Point of Rocks, five beds were opened in the same bluff, within a vertical height of eighty feet. These beds are respectively five, one, four, three, and six and a half feet in thickness. Near the summit of the hill, just over the coal, is a seam of oyster shells six inches in thickness. The oyster is of an extinct and undescribed species, about the size of our common edible one. There are also in this range of hills extensive beds of hard, tabular layers of rock, which would make excellent flagging-stones. On the surface are fine illustrations of wave and ripple markings, and at one locality impressions which appear like the tracks of a mule on the soft bottom ground. ‘There are others that might be attributed to a huge bird, and others to some four-toed pachyderm. Seattered all through the coal strata are seams and concretionary masses of brown iron ore, sometimes local and sometimes persistent over extended areas; it occurs mostly in a nodular form, and if the coal proves to possess sufficient heating power to smelt it, the ore must become eventually of immense economic value. There are also numerous chalybeate and sulphur springs in the vicinity. About ten miles east of Salt Wells Station the high hills or bluffs on either side disappear, and it is plain that we are passing across an anti- clinal valley in which only the yielding clays of the upper cretaceous period are seen. These clays have permitted the surface to be so rounded off that a distinct anticlinal valley can be seen extending 142 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. across the country northeast and southwest. This valley is about six miles wide. Then the lower tertiary beds arise to the surface with a reversed dip and gradually pass up through a Series of sandstones, clays, and arenaceous clays to the Green River shales. At Rock Springs the Wyoming Coal Company, under the direction of Mr. Thomas Wardell, an experienced coal miner, has opened a yery valuable coal bed, which is now furnishing large supplies of fuel to the railroad. Very soon after leaving Rock Springs Station the Green River Group is seen on the bluff hills on either side of the road to the entrance of Bitter Creek into Green River. Inthe Green River Valley are seen remarkable sections of strata. I have called this group the Green River shales, because it is composed of thin layers, varying in thickness from that of a knife-blade to several inches. The rocks all have a grayish-buff color on exposure, sometimes with bands of dark brown. These darker bands are saturated with an oily substance, which causes them to ignite readily. At one time this material was used as a fuel in stoves, and burned well, giving off a good supply of heat; but it was found that the bulk of earthy matter, after the combustible portion was burned out, was as great as the original mass, and rendered it too in- convenient. One of the cuts along the railroad passes through a layer of the cream-colored chalky limestone. There were one or two beds of this petroleum earth. . During the progress of the excavations the workmen built a fire by the side of one of the walls, and this oily earth ignited and burned for several days, giving light to the workmen by night, and filling the valley with a dense smoke by day. The best display of the Green ~ River shales is near the station on the railroad. At the base of the bluffs we have thin layers of arenaceous clay, with laminated sandstone, with mud markings and other indications of shallow water or mud flats ; color ashen brown, 100 feet. Above, lighter-colored layers with alterna- tions of a greenish layer, fine white sand, the whole weathering a light gray. AS we pass up we find a large increase of clay, and some lime, with now and then a thin layer of pebbles or small nodules. The layers vary from the thickness of a knife-blade to twelve inches, split easily and regularly. There are also local beds, four to ten feet thick, of porous limestone, which have the appearance of having been deposited from springs during the tertiary period. There are also seams of very fine limestone that are quite black, so thoroughly is the rock saturated with petroleum. The combustible shales vary in thickness, from two to several feet. Near the summit of the hill, under the yellow caleareous sandstone, there are fifty feet of the shales that contain more or less of the oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep rusty-yellow ceal- careous sandstone, which weathers into the peculiar castellated forms which have given so much celebrity to the scenery in this region. The different shades of color in the thin layers give to the vertical walis a distinct banded appearance. About two miles west of the station there is an excavation which has been called the Petrified Fish Cut, on account of the thousands of beau- tiful and perfect impressions of fishes which are shown on the surface of the thin slabs, sometimes a dozen or two on an area of a square foot. Impressious of insects and water plants are also found, as well as of a remarkable specimen of a feather of a bird, which Professor Marsh regards asa unique specimen, forming a most interesting addition to the bird remains of North America. “It is the distal portion of a large feather, with the shaft and vane in such excellent preservation that it may perhaps indicate approximately the nature of the bird to which GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 143 it belonged.” My collection of fossil fishes from this cut is very large, and my success was mostly due to the kind aid of Mr. A. W. Hilliard, a gentleman of intelligence, who superintended the excavation along the line of the railroad, and preserved from time to time such specimens of value as came in his way. If the example of Mr. Hilliard had been imitated all along the line of this railway thousands of most valuable specimens would have been preserved which are now lost to science. The existence of such vast quantities of animal life, during this period, as those shaly layers would indicate, may account for the oily nature of much of this rock. Ina portion of this cut there is an apparent dip northwest about 18°, but I am disposed to regard it as local. At the west end of the cut are some singular, dike-like openings, filled with loose material from the rusty sandstone near the top of the hill. These fis- sures are evidently due to jointage, and appear like regular mineral lodes with well-defined walls. In most cases they extend up through the shaly layers to the rusty-yellow arenaceous marls, and these fissures have been so closely filled with this material that it must have occurred from deposition, that is, the fissures were formed before the deposition of the calcareous sandstone above. For a most interesting account of the fossil fishes of this group the reader is referred to the essay of Professor Cope in Part IV of this report. About a mile west of the “ Petrified Fish Bed” is a cut along the rail- road which passes through a moderate thickness of buff, chalky lime- stones, filled with impressions of leaves of deciduous trees. These rocks hold a position about one hundred feet above the petroleum shales which contain the fish remains, and therefore the date of their exist- ence may be regarded as subsequent, though belonging to the same basin. Professor J. 8S. Newberry, our best authority on the fossil vege- tation of America, has given these plants a hasty examination, and com- municated the following interesting notes in the form of a letter: I have examined the plants from the rGiten River beds with as much care as the limited time at my command would permit, and am surprised in not finding among them a single species contained in any of your other great collections at the far West. They thus far afford no certain criteria for collating the Green River tertiaries with those of other localities where you have studied them. The plants from the rocks inclosing the coal at Marshall’s mine are more significant, as they include species (Pla- tanus haydeni, which is certainly different from Platanus aceroides) such as were found by you at Carbon Station and at the mouth of the Yellowstone. Every collection of fossil plants received from the tertiary of the West brings to light many new species, and the great diversity which they exhibit proves either a number of plant-bearing horizons, or great localization of the species in the tertiary flora. Among your Green River plants are only some half dozen species so well preserved as to be capable of satisfactory identification or comparison, but they form a very interesting group. Among them I find two palms, both quite unlike anything before found on this continent. One i is a new Pheniciles, resembling Heer’s Manicaria Formosa. The other but an imperfect fragment, yet altogether new and strange tome. The most abundant species contained in the ‘collection is a Magnolia, allied to I. tenuinervis, Lesq., but more elongate and acute; also an oak resembling Quercus Saffordi of Lesq. There 1s another oak in the collection, a laurel, (probably, ) and fragments of two ferns, too imperfect for determination. On the whole, these plants resemble most those described by Lesqueruex, from Mississippi, and I am inclined to suspect are of the same age. This would make the Green River beds older than you lave thought them, and I ‘should want more material before venturing anything more than a ‘suggestion to that effect. I trust you will be able to make other collections from these plant beds during the present season. The specimens contained in the buff, marly limestones of the Green River series are generally not well preserved, and yet, I think, careful search at the locality where ~ these plants sent me were obtained would result in the discovery of some fine things. I would especially urge a search for fruits. The aspect of the small group of plants now before me from Green River is more tropical than any you have brought from the West, and as we have reason to believe - “ 144 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. that our eocene climate was warmer than the miocene, and that from the eocene epoch to the glacial period a progression of temperature took place, the Green River beds would seem to me to prove earlier than late miocene. Geologists have as yet explored this interesting region only in the most superficial way, and we have caught but a glimpse of the wonder- ful treasures which will some time be brought to light. The strata are nearly horizontal, and the rivers have cut such deep channels in them that they can be studied with comparative ease. Professor Denton, who made an exploration of the country about one hundred miles south of the railroad, has given a graphic account of his discoveries, which shows very clearly the geographical extension of this formation. Near the junction of White and Green Rivers, partly in Colorado and partly in Utah, he describes an immense tertiary deposit, composed of a series of petroleum shales, one thousand feet in thickness, varying in color from that of cream to the blackness of cannel coal. The shales abound in the impressions of leaves and of various species of insects. Mr. Sam- uel H. Scudder, of Boston, published in the American Naturalist for February, 1868, a most interesting account of the insects collected by Professor Denton. He says: ; The masses of rock were crowded with remains of insects and leaves of deciduous trees. Between sixty and seventy species of insects were brought home, representing nearly all the different orders; about two-thirds of the species were flies, some of them the perfect insect, others the maggot-like larve, but in no instance did the imago and larvee of the same insect occur. The greater part of the beetles were quite small. There were three or four kinds of Homeoptera, (allied to the treehoppers,) ants of two different genera, and a poorly-preserved moth. Perhaps a minute Thrips, belonging to a group which has neyer been found fossil in any part of the world, is of the greatest - interest. At the present day these tiny and almost microscopic insects live among the petals of flowers, and one species is supposed by some entomologists to be injurious to the wheat; others believe that they congregate in the wheat as well as in the flowers, in the hope of finding food in the still smaller and more helpless insects which are found there. It is astonishing that an insect so delicate and insignificant in size can be so perfectly preserved in these stones; in the best specimens the body is crushed and dis- placed, yet the wings remain uninjured, and every hair of their broad but microscopic fringe can be counted. Professor Denton also discovered in this region a deposit of petro- leum coal, which appears identical with and would yield as much oil as the Albertite coal of New Brunswick. Another bed, resembling cannelite, was noticed, ten to twenty feet in thickness, which Professor Denton believes would produce fifty or sixty gallons of oil to the ton. If so,a single bed here would yield twenty million barrels of oil, or a thousand times as much as America has produced since petroleum was discovered in Pennsylvania. It is clear that these shales, with the fossil insects, leaves, and petroleum, are only a southern extension of the beds which we have so fine an opportunity to study around the Green River Station. Dr. Palmer has brought fresh water shells, as Goniobasis Carteri, and others from White River, which tends to strengthen this conclusion. From Bryan we pass over a peculiar region, differing again in its surface features from any previously seen on our route. Far distant to the southward the singular, dome-like appearance of what we have usually styled the “‘ bad lands” is visible, their brown and indurated sands and clays having weathered into remarkable forms. One of these singular * hills forms a noted landmark along the old stage road, which has received the name of ‘‘ Church Buttes,” from its supposed resemblance to a church. To this formation I have given the name of the “ Bridger Group,” and I am convinced that this region was occupied by a vast fresh-water lake about the same time that the one on White River existed. From the indications derived from the fossil remains already discovered, this GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 145 group of beds is destined to yield a fauna second only to that of the “bad lands” of Dakota. So far as yet known, all the remains appear to be of middle tertiary age. Among these fossils those of turtles are especially numerous. A multitude of fragments, together with several forms, nearly entire, have been collected and sent to Professor Leidy, of Philadelphia, for examination. The specimens have been referred to three extinct species; the greater number pertain to a fresh-water tur- tle which has been named Trionyx guttatus. The genus to which it belongs is found at the present time living in the rivers of America, Asia, and Africa. It is represented in our country by the Trionysx feroz, or great soft-shelled turtle of the Mississippi and its tributaries. The animal is noted for its voracity and feeds on fishes, snakes, and young alligators. Its ancestor of the Bridger tertiary period no doubt was equally predaceous in its habits. Another turtle, of which a nearly complete specimen was discovered, was more like our marsh terrapins in character. It, however, belongs to an extinet genus and species, to which Professor Leidy has given the name of Baptemys Wyomingensis, fromthe habit which it no doubt pos- sessed, in common with most of its tribe, of at least taking an cccasional plunge in some convenient bathing place. Some of the nearest living relatives to this turtle are now found in Central America, the so-called _ Dermatemys and Staurotypus of Vera Cruz and Tobasco. The third spe- cies of turtle indicated by fragments Professor Leidy has referred to a terrapin which he has named Hmys Stevensonensis, in honor of James Stevenson, the companion and able assistant of the author during his geological explorations of the interior of our continent. From other fossil remains from the Bridger Group of rocks, Professor Leidy reports the former existence of an animal presenting an affinity to the hyena and panther. It was larger than our species of the latter, and was evidently a predaceous animal of great strength and ferocity. It has been*named Patriofelis ulta, which signifies the ancestral cat that hath revenged itself. The remains of a small animal discovered by Mr. J. A. Carter, of Fort Bridger, and sent to Professor Leidy, were referred by him to an insect-eater related to the European hedgehog, to which he has given the name of Omomys Carteri, in honer of its discoverer. It will thus be seen that all the animals indicated by the fossils from the Bridger bed, comprising three different turtles, a carnivorous and an insectivorous mammal, are of species and genera previously unknown to science. They, therefore, indicate an especial fauna, accompanied by a peculiar flora, of which thus far we have seen but a trace. Further researches will most probably give to us an interesting history of the lost race of animals, of the former existence of which we now have an ‘intimation. Figure 13 presents a most excellent view ef the “bad lands” as seen on White River, Dakota. This illustration may be regarded as a typical one of the style of surface erosion of the White River and Bridger Groups. The original sketch was taken on the spot by Mr. F. B. Meek in 1853, and is published by permission of Professer James Hall, of Albany, New York. There are also beds of limestone, composed entirely of a small species of Cypris which gives to the rock a beautiful odlitic structure. Of fresh- water mussels, Unios, Goniobases, Viviparas, Planorbis, several species. are found at different localities. Sometimes the Goniobases and Unios are- found on a slab of limestone in great numbers, filled with chalcedony. _ All the evidence that we can secure, points to the conclusion that all the sediments of the Bridger Group were deposited in the bottom of a. purely fresh-water lake, with no access to salt or even brackish water from any 10 G 146 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ieee point. In regard to the extent of this great and most interesting lake — basin very little i isknown. All the explorations have been, hitherto, of a hurried and superficial character. We believe that the Uinta Moun- Fig. 12. tains form the southern ners and that it seeulie down to the valley of Green River, at least to the entrance of White River, and probably further. Professor Denton’s graphie deseription satisfies us that the formations are identical with those around Church Buttes: Looking from the summit of a high ridge on the east, a tract of country containing five or six hundred square miles is distinctly visible. Ov er the whole surface is rock, bare rock cut into ravines, cafions, gorges, and valleys, in magniticent* relief—terrace upon terrace, pyramid beyond pyramid, rising to mountain heights; amphitheaters that would hold a million spectators; walls, pillars, towers, castles everywhere. It looks like some ruined city of the gods, blasted, bare, desolate, but grand, “beyond a mortal’s telling.” Originally an elevated countr V5 composed of a number of soft beds of sandstone of v arying thickness and softness, underlaid by immense beds of shale, it has been worn down and cut out by rills, creeks, and streams, leaving this strange, weird country to be the wonder of all generations. But we must not leave this singularly interesting region without a word in regard to the “moss agates” which cover the country from Green River to Fort Bridger in the greatest profusion. The ground in many places seems to be literally paved with nicely-rounded pebbles and small boulders, mostly of agate flint, the largest not more than four or five inches in diameter; there is a belt of about ten miles in width, from east to west, including Churebh Buttes, and extending an unknown distance, from nor th to south, over which these gems are found in the greatest abundance and v ariety. Iam inclined to think they originate in this modern tertiary formation. About six miles west of Carter’s Station a cut in the railroad reveals a bed of tough, dark-gray, plastic clays, and at the top a layer of flinty coneretions filled with smail seams of chalcedony. In the ‘“‘bad lands” of White River are abundant seams of fine chalcedony, which only need the oxide of iron or manga- nese to make the choicest of moss agates. I am inclined to believe that these agates originate in irregular seams in the tertiary beds somewhere south of Church Buttes. The origin of all the drift material which strikes the eye everywhere I regard as local, and that it was, probably transported from the direction of the Uinta Mountains. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 147 Some of these gems are very beautiful, and the sprangles or dentritic delineations are wonderfully like the stems of moss, and it is quite dif- ficult for most travelers to believe that they are not actually plants im- prisoned in the flinty mass. Most of the agates are of little value, but occasionally one is found of great beauty that will sell for $50 or "875. They are also found in the Middle and South Parks to some extent; those in the Middle Park being regarded as by far the best. Beautiful specimens of opal, semi-opal, or ‘opaline, occur, and when found are especially attractive. A variety of opal of a milly -white color, and very - transparent, was found in a lode of gold-bearing quartz, near Idaho, Colorado, and was much sought after for a time. CHAPTER XII. BEAR RIVER TO GREAT SALT LAKE VALLEY. For more than two hundred miles we have passed over what appears to’ be one of the most desolate regions of the West. Even the most enthu- siastic of our companions in travel will not hesitate to pronounce it a desert. Yet a careful analysis of the soil will show that it possesses the ele- ments of fertility. Ifstreams of water could be made to circulate through these broad, treeless, and almost plantless plains, and the same amount of human industry employed as has been so remarkably exhibited by the Mormons in Salt Lake Valley, there is no doubt they would become productive. Whether in the great future this state of things can be brought about by artesian wells and cheap labor is a question for the people of that future to determine. It is my duty simply to present the facts as [read them. As we proceed westward from Fort Bridger, we note at once the favorable change that takes place in the aspect of the country and of the vegetation. “Broad plains and sloping hills, crowded thickly with grass, with an almost entire absence of the wild sage, are now therule. Patches of the quaking asp appear here and there, and along the streams are fringes of the cottonwood. Soon after leaving Carter Station, toward the west, the pinkish beds come in suddenly. They seem to rise from beneath the Bridger Group. Their dip is about northeast 3° to 5°, and they have evidently been dis. turbed slightly by the later movem ents which elevated the Uinta range. This series of strata, to which I have given the provisional name of the Wasatch Group, are composed of red, indurated, arenaceous Clays, with beds of grayish and reddish gray sandstones alternating. Pinkish and purplish clays are the dominant features, and give the lithological charac- ter to the groups as far west as Echo Canon, when the conglomerates pre- vail. The latter group is full of beds of sandstone, largely coneretionary, but the sandstones or harder layers are seldom of a reddish color. Be- fore reaching Bridger Station the strata on either side of the road are horizontal, or nearly so. A long flat ridge extends down a little east of north from the Uinta Mountains, between Black’s Fork and the Muddy. This may be regarded as the geological divide between the waters of the Great Salt Lake Basin and the drainage of Green River. The Muddy is one of the branches of Black’s Fork, which flows into Green River, and west of this stream we have Renal is called the eastern rim of the Great Basin of Salt Lake. If we were to travel southward to the foot of the Uinta Mountains from the railroad along this divide, we should be able to detect no well-marked line of separation between the — \ 148 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Green River Group and the Wasatch Group. Bridger’s Butte, as well as the entire eastern portion of this divide fronting the valley of Black’s Fork, exhibit a large thickness of the somber, indurated sands, clays, and sandstones of the Bridger Group, passing down into light, buff, chalky layers, with Planorbis, Unio, Helix, Goniobasis, &e. Within’ a distance of ten miles to the west of this butte the little streams cut through the pinkish beds of the Wasatch Group, then pass up into whiter, indurated, marly clays, with numerous concretionary layers, dif- fering from the chalky beds of the Bridger and Green River Basin. — I am inclined to the opinion that this divide forms the junction of the shores of two great fresh-water-lake basins which existed during the upper miocene period; that here the sediments of the western shore of one were so mingled with those of the eastern shore of the other that they cannot now be separated. The two great, basins may have been connected with each other at different points at some stages of their growth, but there is an abrupt, persistent, very marked difference in the character of the sediments of the two basins. That the two great basins must have been synchronous is inferred from the fact that the strata of both have been but slightly disturbed by the elevation of the mountain ranges in the vicinity. The want of conformity of the Wasatch Group with thecretaceous and eocene beds will be shown hereafter to be well marked in a number of loeali- ties. Both the Bridger and Green River Groups have yielded many or- ganic remains, but the Wasatch Group, although it occupiesa very large area, and has been excavated to a great extent along the line of the railroad, has never, to my knowledge, “afforded any distinct paleontolog- ical evidence of its age. Near Piedmont Station, in some arenaceous clays which had been taken out of a cut, I found a few fragments of turtle shells, which do not differ from those so common in the Green River district. It seems that, throughout the West, rocks which are characterized by this brick- red coloring matter are destitute of organic remains. The red beds, or supposed triassic, which are so conspicuous all along the flanks of the mountain ranges, are also singularly destitute of fossils. It seems that wherever this ochreous color prevails in the sediments, the physical conditions were not favorable for the existence . of animal life, for if life existed, | can see nothing in the composition of the » rocks why the remains should not have been preserved. At Bridger Station, and from Bridger to Aspen, which is about twenty-four miles west from Bridger Station, the ochreous beds of the Wasatch Group are well ‘exposed on both sides of the road, and will attract the attention of the traveler. A few stunted cedars grow upon the hills and in the valleys and plains. The alkali is as abundant as ever. There are also localities where heavy deposits of drift ovcur, especially in the valleys of the streams. This is shown along the road wherever extensive excavations have been made, and these deposits will be simply mentioned from point to point, to be referred to hereafter in another connection. The valley through which the road passes from Piedmont to Aspen is carved out of the beds of the Wasatch Group, and varies somewhat, but seldom over a mile in width. The little stream that flows through the valley is not more than ten or fifteen feet wide. From Aspen to Evanston the change-in the general appearance of the surface of the country will be noticed at once. The hills are more rounded and more thickly grassed over, presenting an older appearance. At Aspen the eretaceous makes its appearanee. The high hills on either side are composed of eretaceous strata which seem to have been higher points before the deposition of the sediments of the Wasatch Group, and also GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 149 to have been elevated to some extent since that time. For some distance west of Aspen the red beds fill up the irregularities of the cretaceous surface, but do not conform. About half a mile west of Aspen Station the road cuts through a large exposure of the lower cre- taceous shaly clays of No. 2, revealing abundant fish scales and fragments of Inoceramus. These cretaceous beds are well shown for about four or five miles, when the coal beds make their appearance near Bear River. Near Sulphur Creek there is a ridge of sandstone which the road passes through nearly at right angles. This ridge, which I have called Oyster Ridge, trends about northeast and southwest, and the dip is west northwest 20° to 25°. It is composed mostly of gray and yellow gray sandstone, capped with a calcareous sandstone, filled with a small species of Ostrea, and belongs, I think, to the upper portion of the cretaceous group—probably No. 5. On the north side of the road there is a high range of hills which are made up of the black clays of No.4. At Bear River City, which is not more than four miles to the west, the strata are nearly vertical and trend nearly northeast and southwest, with a dip northwest. There is here a series of strata, which are still invested with a good deal of obscurity. On the north of Sulphur Creek, for three miles before it unites with Bear River, the black clays of No. 4 are extensively exposed, and above them a series of sandstones with partings of clay, gradually passing up into the strata which contain coal. That a portion of these sandstones belongs to the upper cretaceous eroup I cannot doubt, but where the line of separation should be drawn between the cretaceous rocks and those of tertiary age Il am unable to decide. In the bed of sandstone which rests upon the well- marked cretaceous clays are found a species Ostrea and a few other marine species of shells, none of which are really peculiar to the creta- ceous, but from their entirely marine character we regard them as such. We then have from three hundred to five hundred feet of sandstones and clays, with thin beds made up of marine shells, and among them a species which sometimes reaches’a length of twelve inches, which Mr. Meek has described under the name of QO. soleniscus. In this group are a few thin seams of impure coal. The dip of these beds is northwest about 50°. Then comes a large thickness of arenaceous clays with thin layers of sandstone, with three or four seams of impure coal and large quantities of brown iron ore or limonite. The seams of coal are from one to three feet thick, with the usual clays above and below. Then comes the bed of coal which is well known in this region, seven feet thick, nearly vertical or with a dip of 82° northwest. The inclination of the entire series of rocks from the Uinta range is quite plain. This coal bed has been wrought for several years, and is so convenient to the railroad that it ought to be of considerable value. The coal ap- pears to be of good quality. Above and below it are thick beds of clay. In the clay above the coal there is a seam of oyster shells, a species dis- tinct from any that occurs below it, about 4 inches thick. Above the clay there is a thick bed, two hundred feet, of gray sandstone, with irreg- ular layers of deposition inclining at a very high angle—70° to 80°. Then a valiey intervenes to the westward, in which Bear River City is located, one-fourth to half a mile in width, which must have once been occupied with a considerable thickness of soft material, which is now quite concealed by grass and other vegetation. Still further west we have a wonderful series of fresh-water beds, which have been tilted and flexed in a most remarkable manner. These are shown in a railroad cut a little west of the city, about two hundred or three hundred feet long, where nearly two hundred layers are exposed, of almost every ” 150 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. variety of texture, from sandstone, clay, and fine sands, to earthy lignite, and many of these sands are so crowded with fossil shells that they may be gathered by the bushel. The sides of the cut are so peculiarly banded that they look like the stripes of a zebra. At the east end these layers are nearly vertical, but at the west end they seem to have been lapped or bent down so as to form an abrupt cone, as if there had been tremen- dous pressure from above. A little further to the westward we see a ridge of the red beds and conglomerates, inclining gently to the west, and resting unconformably upon the upturned edges of the rocks in the cut. But along no other portion of our route have I ever seen so rich a locality for fossil shells, of a few species. In the cut and on the hills on either side of Bear River the ground is literally paved with them, and the collector may gather them as he would the shells on the seashore. They are mostly land and fresh-water species, many of them as yet undescribed. Mr. I’. B. Meek has made out a partial list, and he finds several species of fresh-water sheils, as Unio priscus, U. belliplicatus, Goniobasis chrysalis, Melania humerosa, &c., and some interesting estuary forms which indicate brackish water, or partial access to the « ocean in those times. The conclusion, however, is that all these rocks are of tertiary age. The tollowing sections of these curiously variegated strata were made at my request, by Mr. H. R. Durkee, a civil engineer of great skill in his profession, and an excellent geologist. They were wrought out with much care. The diagram will also assist in rendering more clear the position of the strata. The second cut has been exposed by the excavations for gravel made by the workmen on the railroad; ‘80 that both of them may be considered as artificial exposures. COMMENCING AT THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF THE CUT. SECTION 1. WH DD CT) OO 0 OC S OWE DW Top pA No. Description. ee No. Description. vee Ft. In. | Ft. In. 1 | Clay, grayish-black, contains frag- | || 83 | Limestone, fossiliferous, fossilssmall.| 1 8 ments of sandstone. ..-----.----2.. 10 0 ||} 84 | Gypseous earth, white ....-..-..-.--- 0 2 On limiimestones blur sean e es ee ee eee ee 2 0|| 85} Clay, stony, bluish-gray .....-------- 26 SHlCGlavwonavish- black ssene as anen nes 0 6 | 86 Clayashalemiblacke eens ener 0 10 4 Clay, brown, hard, and in large frag- 87 | Limestone, fossiliferous ...-..------- 0 8 FLED TUG basse eee ote it a a MSE re EN lO) 88h Clay ishalesiblack--e-secscseeeeeeeere 0 3 5 | Clay, black, hard, and in small frag- ||tS9n | uimestoneee esses aaeer EE ee eeEee ears 0 4 THOT Syne Ae ESE fea eed EON #590 |eitarly.clay.iblack= 22s s=ce=eeeeeee 0 2 6 | Limestone, blue, fossiliferous. --..--. 160i O10 eMiarlshi obtionayesssere-esereseee eee 0 23 NClay,, erayish-black ss pes 220 nee D292) Clayishale; vorayessesceemereseereeeee 0 8 Sandstone, frapmentary---s--o- 2: 0 2/]| 93 | Clay shale, black s:j20 cose eee 0 Ouii@layishalevorayeceee es aeece mere eee 100) |i94) | |ClaysshaleVorayesesoeese eee eeeeeeree 0 10 | Clay, erayish-black, very compact. -- 1 0] 95 | Clay shale, hlaclk! (ook seas 0 bal @lavishalesiblacksereesssecrceses ace | 010 || 96 | Gypseous earth, yellow.----.---.---- “() 12 | Marl, shells in fragments. ..---.-.--- 0887197) "Claydshallesilac cost aera 0 ish eClay/shaley black 25-5 = 2c -nesss-eeee 0 6 || 98] Gypseous earth, yellow.--------..--- 03 14 | Limestone, much shattered, and in 99.) TGimestone oo sos ee eee ae en ee il angular pieceskaneeeseeeee=t eens eee I 22) 04) 100) \Clay/shalesbluete 2. -n-5---eeeeeaeeee 1 Syne lavashaletiblack..4.0 5 essen: Seen e 1 0''05|( 41015) snimestonesshe aes seen esse eee eee eee 0 16 | Limestone, angular fragments... ..--- 0) 1G3)|)102) Clay, shalesblueseeceeee s- eee ee eeeeee 0 17 | Clay shale, Prowl ete Poe CNL Aly aR I} 103))| tamestones eee oese eee ee eee 1 1g | Limestone, slightly fossiliferous...-. 1 -6 || 104 | Marl, gray ..-.. eal «OD 19 | Gypseous earth, contains crystals of || 105 | Shale, black. 0 IsSlemitowsaat sche o a Gane en SAE 0 3 || 106 | Sandstone .-- 0 3: 20 | White marl, shells fragmentary . yO) Woes) aiewalGse-55 54 0 3 21 | Limestone, very fossiliferous. ---- 0 6 || 108 | Shale, black.....-. 0 4 22 | Clay shale, black tne es ae Th Ce OO yal 5a 8 ae gee noe 20 23 Limestone, very fossiliferous. - 0 2) 110 | Shale, bituminous -.....=- Oe 24 | Clay shale, brown ...----.- oe 206) 410 || Marl S322. ot ches ene eeereee 0 2 25 | Sandstone, irasmentarye- -eassse sc 47072) | Swimestone 222-2 eee eee 0 8 26 | Clay shale, Tay -plac keen meee eee 2.04] 343") Marl: 252545 52 eee eee QS 27 | Gypseous earth, layer of crystals of j) 214.) Timestone: 243 ee ee 0 6 ‘selenite on east side _....-_...-.--. 0) 1G |) eis d/l eo See eee 1 0 28 | Clay shale, contains streak of coal | Gs) Shales black-eee=.=—aese=eeer LO and gypseous earth.-.....--------- 2 6 || 117 | Coal and shale. .--.:------:---- > 0 2 29 | Gypseous earth. contains streaks of | i 118) Limestone. eee ee eeeee ee ee aes 011 ‘brown bituminous shale........--- 0 8 il 119 Marl .....-....-----+++2+2++4; Ages s536 0 6 . GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Thick- DUsmOlavy shales bluey) sos seen tate. = 51 | Sandstone, fragmentary --.--------- 52 | Clay shale, blue and yellow..-....-- 53 | Limestone, very fossiliferous. --..- TEMES tO Cea eae a eta eee en ae No. Description. AGRE. Description. Ft. In. 30 | Clay shale, brown, very hard.--.- 6 ibamestone = see Se i ee ee 31 | Clay shale, black, bituminous --..-- 5) ATU Cio eh Ui = Mm AC 32 || Witidl pahyvegee sesbo sds Gaaces 4 soads 2 Clay shale, variegated, (purple, yel- 38) |! IhnimeRnie esses ssesscceesesootorss 10 low, &e.) SS SRN LUE a ESTE ea ae 34 | Clay, full of fossils.....-.-----.--- 3 Limestone, slightly fossiliferous. ---. doy l@lay Shale; gray so-s2-1s-s=ssce=- 0 Gypseous earth. ee 0s ee oa Soni C@layashales blue eeeeneaee ees 3 Limestone, slightly fossiliferous..... 37 | Sand, yellow Ps SN GIL EA ON ers a 2 Marl, bluish-black, hard eee 38 | Clay shale, g PAPIY cocconanes Sdoctas 0 COM eeossssoosscecncnduakeds sane eae 39 | Clay shale, gray, bituminous ---.-- 8 Gwpseousiearthen--s- = selec 40 Limestone, fossiliferous ......----- 6 CORE eee ee) Selon a Ib 2 41 | Clay shale and marl, fossiliferous, IAIN ESWOMG yas bo sboaoosseeoeoeoneeer less fossils on west side.......... 6 pudlanng! Oop space susacusendepcesce 42 | Bituminous shale, contains streaks TIME SCONE pee eee eee Olmblackycoalleernasnem-easeeeres- 4 Shale, bituminous, black .-.......--. 435) Clay shale; blue -4---- = --.2-=---2 6 Wihnali endl soos eoen bees beeen bee ose 44 | Gypseous Gait n eee Mice ECAR 13) iglle, WAG. jsce obese estes see Aap Claysshale ples = i s1)5 eee = oe 1 IVD aii ese Se pce A SN Sat ie UN ZB || AN Terrell 785, Cae eS gr ee 4 S Hral] Ge Bees eee is Tat aa eae eA cg “ay || Cleny simile, wiht) See es soceessocesone 0 Limestone, very fossiliferous ........ 48 | Marl, yellowish-white .....-....--- 3 Clay shale, blue, full of fossils..----. 49 | Sandstone, fossiliferous .-.-..--..- 9 Shale, bituminous, yellow and black. 2 8 6 6 2 54 | Clay, full Gietossil seek ee 55 | Bands, black, bituminous shale and GiReNAL heise Re RMI sel AOS OMe Mba Maye asain sae ins a mei of | Slaty shale, black -....-..<---=--.- 58 | Limestone, very fossiliferous. -...- 59 | Slaty shale, TAY G ares a ier apes Saad sia eis) 60 | Shale, full oftossils) ooo eee 61 | Clay shale, bla cketes Saat sae eae 62 | Clay shale, yellowish-brown ..--.-- 63 | Clay shale, \nlqray es ewalele Been SU IeG aE 64 | Coal and y ‘ellow shale in streaks..... 65 | Limestone, veay fossiliferous. --..- GG) |) aN hdl ae tees Aaa ae cen areas 67 | Limestone, slightly fossiliferous, fos- sils fragmentary A GS Se ae 68 | Nodular ‘Clay and shells, streaks of | bitumincus shale on the west side. Oe eiarl yellows shards 2 s-eeee cs se cei AOm@Marl black (soft) =scecceeessses oe 71-| Clay ‘shale, black, bituminous. ....- 72 | Gypseous earth, yellow and white. . 73.) Wiayal Wen see oeaecusaasooreass Age Marl Sontpe ssi crs es= ema see ne 75 | Clay ‘shale, AUN o5-cosssnosesencaue 76 | Clay and shale in-bands ...-..----- Mme Vienne ae oe coe SEE USSU ie 78 | Gypseous earth, yellow....-.--.--- TD |) eel Ea ea ele eee Oy Gay 80 | Clay shale, black and blue, in bands. 81 | Clay, stony, EN evsko dase esueeaes 82 | Gypseous earth, yellow. -.-......--- From No. 173 to western end of cut, (which is made up of the reversed strata, but not in regular order, some seem to be pinched out.) ro = RPrROoCOOrFCOoOCOoW ecocorcercoeocoso ee Coorcoroocoor — WOODRFOCOCMORNAURS for) SOC AANTOWAINHA — SCWRNOCONORRPOCOCOF SSCS poole ShalleGslativaiolacicee sams seer Shale, brown, full of fossils.-.--..--. Shale wbluee ea ee he eee ana DY eh ee ea ea Se SEE eae StS Ea Gypseous earth 2222202202). 2s Limestone, compact, streaks of marl and coal, which run out..---------- Shalesslaibiyers wey see ete as ae eee Bituminous shale and brown coal. --. TIMeESHOMe Ree SS Nae eee teen on Clay shale, contains scales of white PV PSCOUS ear bheae eee se sees AEE el ET RO ee eS AS ey a Noe Shale, fossiliferous ...--..----------- Clay, hard, fossiliferous .-.--.--..-.--. @laycshalewblackiesseb ices eee eae Clay, hard, fossiliferous .....---.-.-- Marl, OTe ls sine yen osieeiee ease enna sete NERA bye eee teas ae Ah oe oe ecaos Gypseous earth. awihiteysee eee coer Clay hands iaee ae aae aaa a eeaee WY Wel ices Ml eee aE ame resent ede Coalt brow eseceo-e cease eee Clay eA errno ann a epee epee TMIMeStONes ese e eee eee eee eee eee Gypseous earth and shale..-..------- TAM EStOM ER seh eee ae ee Re Sandstone, yellow ...-..-.--.-------- Wimestome sas wa yee aren aan eee Gypseous earth and shale..--...---.- MAM EStONE Wea seee ara eee Clayishalesseceiy sts s yaa erubela Bituminous shale.--..--.--.-.-.-.--.- TAME S TOMS ee ses a hes Gan rae im) aos — (st) bet TODO WO Re O Mop © el DD OH COBH 2D RO OO tO a SHROODOWVACOWO DH DON ARHHDOOWD CDOND WOHRFORMSCHNWUWUSOSOSOSOSCSOSOCSOOWOH HORS, oocoeoworocoowoooooroocoocooco = 152 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ORDER OF STRATA EXPOSED IN RAILROAD CUT, SECTION 2, (FROM EAST TO WEST.) ~ sandstone, aS shownin thecut. This group 23 AV ii covers the divide between the South Platte == to be of upper miocene or pliocene age. 11G. \ ‘162 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Figure 15 will serve to show the appearance of the ridges of upheaval, or “hog backs,” as they are sometimes called in the west. These ridges occur to a greater or less extent all along the eastern flanks of the Rocky Mountains. They sometimes rise like steps to the crest, so that one may walk from the tertiary formations in the plains, holding a horizon- tal position, across the uplifted edges of ali the formations to the granite nucleus. Between these ridges are, in many instances, beautiful grassy valleys, varying from a few hundred yards to half a mile in width. When exposed only on one side of a range I have called them mono- clinal ridges and valleys. Ridges of upheavei near Big Thompson Creek, Colorado. The railroad then for forty miles passes over and cuts through a great variety of syenites; some compact, beautiful building stones, almost equal to the Scotch syenites, but the greater part ferruginous and easily disintegrating on exposure. ; On the west side of the Laramie range we pass across the uplifted edges of the various formations seen on the eastern margin. We know that. the carboniferous limestones occur here, for the fossils which, though not abundant, are explicit as to their age. The limestones lie all along the margins of the Laramie range up to the Red Buttes, and sometimes slope so gently and cover the flanks so uniformly as to appear like a sort of fiexible roof. Along the North Platte, above Laramie Peak, the little streams have cut deep canons through the limestones and sandstones of carboniferousage. In Box Elder Cafion, Hemipronites crassus, Productus semieticulatus, Aviculapecten occidentalis, and other well-known carponiferous forms occur. Between the granites and the * GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Gan limestones is a thin series of fine and coarse sandstone, the layers rest- ing directly upon the granites, being composed of a sort of fine pudding- stone consisting of an aggregate of quartz pebbles and rusty coarse sand cemented with lime. his may possibly be a remnant of the Pots- dam sandstone which oceurs so well developed farther north in the Big Horn, Wind River, and Sweetwater ranges. This same sandstone is observed far north to Red Buttes, but I have never been able to find any trace of organic remains. Fig. 16. —— ee Uplifted Carboniferous Ridges, Jefferson Fork, Upper Missouri. ipa Figurel6is introduced in this connection simply to show the ridges of carboniferous limestone, as they are revealed along the flanks of the mountains. This cut will apply to the ridges about ten miles west of Elk Mountain, although the sketch was taken in the valley of Jefferson fork of the Missouri River. Similar examples occur all along the east and west sides of the Laramie range. The figures are introduced in this connection to make more clear the theory of the upheaval of the Rocky Mountain ranges, which has been expressed in this and previous re- ports. The red beds are well revealed all along the western flanks of the Laramie range, and are always noticed by the traveler on account ot their peculiar brick-red color. The harder layers of this rock are much used for building purposes. I am unable to say yet whether these red sandstones are triassic or Jurassic, though I believe that be- tween these and the cretaceous formations, Jurassic beds occur. Along the Big Laramie the cretaceous rocks come to the surface. The quartz- ites and sandstones which I have usually referred to No. 1, or lower cretaceous, underlie the plain just west of the railroad south of Fort Sanders; and in the banks of the Big Laramie, near the old stage station, No. 2, occurs withits dark plastic laminated clays, with thin lay- ers of fibrous carbonate of lime, to the surface of which are attached great numbers of the ubiquitous Ostrea congesta. In the level plain west of the Big Laramie, No. 3 is exposed fifty to one hundred feet in * 164 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. thickness, with its usual yellow chalky character; the usual Ostrea congesta occurs in great abundance. Immediately along the line of the railroad no indications of No. 3 have ever been observed. Nowhere in the Laramie plains are any of the subdivigions of the cretaceous group. © well defined. These beds occupy the co®ntry along the line of the road from Laramie City nearly to Como Station, a distance of sixty miles; at this point the red beds and the true Jurassic rocks are > brought to the surface, over a restricted area, by means of an anticlinal which forms a valley through which the road passes. The strata in- cline from either side. The south side of the road exposes the most complete series of beds; a high ridge is composed of Jurassic beds, mostly capped with the sandstones of No.1, while as far as the eye can reach to the southward the low. wave-like ridges of No. 2 can be seen. Towards the southwest, the anticlinal valley seems to close up, but to the northeastward it expands indefinitely, and extends, no doubt, to the Laramie range. From a point about ten miles west of Como to St. Mary’s Station, a distance of fifty miles, the tertiary coal beds, with the sands, sandstones, and clays peculiar to them, occupy the country. The most important coal mines are located at Carbon; no shells have ever been observed in connection with the coal, but thousands of impressions of deciduous leaves are found. Itis an important point to fix the age of the coal beds in any one locality. So far as we can determine, the coal beds of the Laramie plains are of eocene age, although the plants are more closely allied to those of the miocene period in the Old World. In the vicinity of Elk Mountain, along the Overland stage road, in beds which I regard as belonging to the older tertiary, and holding a position near the junction of the tertiary and cretaceous, and nearly or quite on a parallel with the lower tertiary beds near Denver, Colorado, I found a quantity of fossil leaves, among which Dr. Newberry identi- fies Platanus Haydeni, Quercus aceroides, Magnolia tenerafolia, with frag- ments of Cornus and kKhamnus. The same species occur in the upper portion of the coal series on the west side of Bridger’s Pass. At Carbon Populus cuneata, P. Nebrascensis, and Platanus Haydeni, are very abun- dant. From St. Mary’s Station to Rawlings’ Springs, a distance of thirty miles, the road passes over rocks of cretaceous age; although on the hills on either side remnants of the coal strata may be found. About two miles west of this point the coal beds begin to appear again, and at Separation, Platanus Haydeni, Cornus acuminata, with other undeter- mined species of plants, oceur. This point forms the eastern rim of a basin which extends about one hundred and ten miles to the westward. A new group comes in which I have named the Washakie Group, from the fact that near this station are beds of calcareous sandstone and lime- stone, composed of an aggregate of fresh-water shells. As they are mostly casts it is difficult to identify the species, but Mr. Meek has named the most abundant kind Unio Washakeet. Soon after leaving Bitter Creek Station the coal strata of eocene age rise to the surface from be- neath the miocene beds of the Washakie Group with a reversed dip. | Here we find numerous beds of coal, and in the rocks above and below the coal are great numbers of impressions of leaves, and in the clay seams of oyster shells of several species. At Black Buttes Station, eight hundred and fifty miles west of Omaha, we found Sabal Campbelli, Rham- nus elegans, Cornus acuminata, Quercus aceroides, Tilia antiqua, with other undescribed species. At Point of Rocks, fourteen miles farther west, Platanus Haydeni, P. Nebrascensis, Cornus acuminata, Magnolia tenerafolia,occur. At Haliville the black slaty clays, forming the roofof one GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 165 of the most valuable of the coal beds of this region, are crowded with bi- valve shells, two species of which Mr. Meek has named Cyrena fracta, and 0. crassatelliformis, regarding them as tertiary. They are undoubtedly brackish-water forms and show asort of middle position—that is, middle or upper eocene. That there is a connection between all the coal beds of the West I firmly believe, and I am convinced that in due time that relation will be worked out and the links in the chain of evidence joined together. That some of the older beds may be of upper cretaceous age Iam prepared to believe, yet until much clearer light is thrown upon their origin than any we have yet secured, I shall regard them as belong- ing to my transition series or beds of passage between the true creta- ceous and the tertiary. When the large collections of fossil plants from the West, now in the possession of Dr. Newberry, are carefully studied, we shall have a much better basis upon which to rest a conclusion. It will be seen at once that one of the most important problems in the geol- ogy of the West awaits solution, in detecting, withouta doubt, the age of the coal series of the West, and the exact line of demarkation between the eretaceous and tertiary periods. The study of this question shows the importance of the continued accumulation of facts and the collection of organic remains. Neither can we place too rigid reliance on the teachings of the fossils, for it has already been shown many times that the fauna and flora of the tertiary deposits of this country, when compared with those of the Old World, reach back one epoch into the past. We have already obliterated the chasm between the permian and the carboniferous era, and shown that there is a well-marked inosculation of organic forms—those of supposed permian affinities passing down into well-known carboniferous strata, and admitted carboniferous types passing up into the permian. We believe that the careful study of these transition beds is destined to oblit- erate the chasm between the cretaceous and tertiary periods, and that there is a passing down into the cretaceous pericd of tertiary forms, and an extending upward into the tertiary of those of cretaceous afiinities. It appears also, that every distinct fauna or flora of a period ought to contain within itself the evidence of its own age or time of existence, with certain prophetic features which reach forward to the epoch about to follow. If there is a strict uniformity in all the operations of nature when taken in the aggregate, as I believe there is, then thisis simply in accordance with the law of progress which in the case of the physical changes wrought out in the geological history of the world has operated so slowly that infinite ages have been required to produce any percep- tible change. The position that I have taken in all my studies in the West is that all evidences of sudden or paroxysmal movements, have been local and are to be investigated as such, and have had no influence on the great extended movements which I have regarded as general, uni- form, and slow, and the results of which have given to the West its present configuration. The splendid group of fossils obtained on the Upper Missouri, from the Fox Hills Group or upper cretaceous beds, illustrate the prophetic element I have mentioned above. Among them are many true cretaceous forms, as Ammonites, Baculites, Inoceramus, &e., yet these all present such a modern facies that they seem plainly to look forward into the succeeding epoch, which in the ease of our Atlantic coast was Strictly marine. It was no fault of the fossils themselves that they were mistaken in this instance. We may suppose that near the close of the cretaceous period, the ocean extended all over the area west of the Mississippi, from the Arc- tic Circle to the Isthmus of Darien. How much of the country east of 166 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the Mississippi was beneath the ocean I will not now attempt to deter- mine. Restricted portions of the western continent may have been above the ocean level, and some of the mountains may have projected, like rocky islands, above the waters. Near the close of the cretaceous period the great water-shed of the continent was marked out, and the marine waters were separated into more or less shallow seas, lakes, es- tuaries, marshes, &c. Among the marshes sported the reptiles, the remains of which are so abundant in the tertiary deposits; and on the areas raised above the waters grew luxuriant forest trees and other vegetation which contributed to the formation of the coal beds. We shall attempt to show from time to time that, although the coal deposits of the West occupy an enormous area, yet the profitable deposits of coal hie in detached basins, some of which are quite restricted in, their area. The study of these coal formations in nature shows most plainly that some of the beds of coal extend, uninterruptedly, over enormous areas, as if the vegetable matter had been deposited in a sea, or that the physical conditions attending its occurrence were widespread and uni- torm, while in other localities coal strata of great thickness clearly oc- cupy but a limited area. We are aware that beds of coal, but a few miles apart, and evidently synchronous, show no physical evidence of ever having been connected with each other. There is another curious. fact, that, while very nearly the same species of plants occur, the coal strata are nearly, or quite all, marine or brackish, while far removed from the mountain ranges the sediments very soon become purely tresh- water. On the Upper Missouri, where the Goal-bearing group covers so large an area with remarkable uniformity, only the lowest beds contain marine forms, and very soon we pass up into strata with purely fresh- water fossils. We may suppose that at an early period, during the ter- tiary epoch, this portion was cut off from access to the salt water. If our ideas of the physical geography of these epochs are correct, coal strata of contemporaneous origin may be purely marine, purely fresh- water or brackish, depending upon the proximity of the sea, lake, or marsh, to the ocean waters. We have already shown many times that there is no real physical break in the deposition of the sediments between the well-marked ere- taceous and tertiary groups. In some localities the continuity is clear and beautiful in the highest degree. On Green River, and in the Bit- ter Creek Valley, one can trace the continuity step by step, so far as the strata are concerned, from the cretaceous through the greatest thick- ness of clays, sands, and sandstones of the lower tertiary to the purely fresh-water beds of Green River shales, Washakie or Bridger Groups. In these localities the influence of the elevation of the mountain ranges has been such as to expose the outcropping edges of all the strata from the cretaceous to the sands of the most recent tertiary, like the leaves of a book. We have already shown thatin the claysinterspersed among the coal beds in the Bitter Creek Valley, are seams of oys- ter shells of several species. A few other marine forms have been ob- served. At Hallville, near Point of Rocks, we have seen that in the slaty shales, above one of the coal beds, are proofs that at that period the physical conditions were most favorable for the existence of a pro- fusion of brackish-water life; that in this locality, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet of coal strata were deposited before the salt water ceased to have access to these tertiary lakes. At Bear River, also, the same history is written upon the rocky layers. We have well-defined cretaceous strata, and from these we ascend through a series of sandstones and clays, with an abundance of shells of the genus Ostrea, and afew other marine forms GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 167 resembling tertiary types aS much as cretaceous. Soon we come to the coal beds, which, at this locality, are nearly vertical. Above them we find seams of oyster shells, but no other marine forms. And finally, high up in the upper beds of the coal group, we find the greatest profu- sion of brackish and fresh-water life that we have observed in the West, Unio priscus, U. belliplicatus, Cyrena durkeei, Corbula p UE &e. So far as the Evanston coal mines are concerned, no shells have been found in connection with them, so far as I know. "But last year, in the caleareous sandstones above the huge 26-foot bed, I discovered a mag- nificent series of fossil leaves, among which, Dr. New berry informed me, he had detected species identical with those occurring in connection with the coal beds of the Laramie Plains, and on the Upper Missouri. No plants have been observed in the vicinity of Bear River City. What relation the coal beds here sustain to those at Evanston, I cannot deter- mine. As yet elieve is no evidence of any connection WEEE except proximity. The next locality sphere coal is exposed is at Coalville, a little town in the valley of Weber River, five miles above the mouth of Echo Creek, where it crops out ina number of places over a very restricted area. The general dip of the beds is northwest, 10° to 18°. The most im- portant opening of a coal vein is that of Mr. Spriggs. The coal bed is fifteen feet thick, twelve feet of good coal, and the other three feet somewhat impure, but useful as a fuel. The dip is 20° to 30°; the roof is composed of yellowish gray sandstone, sometimes a pudding- stone, with only about an inch or'so of elay between. An air shaft sunk by Mr. Spriggs passed through the sandstone sixty feet. Mr. Spriggs in- formed me that there were six different seams of coal in this region. Just above the third seam there is a layer of oyster shells about four feet thick ; the clay under the coal varies in thickness, sometimes sixteen feet, again eighteen inches; below this is a yellowish-gray or brown sandstone. Looking down the Weber Valley, the group of beds forma sort of semicircle, dipping west and northwest. In the high ridge that lies immediately north of Chalk Creek, we have a series of yellowish -and brown-gray clays and sands, with one or two beds of light, brick- red, arenaceous clay, the whole extending up two hundred and fifty feet above the coal, apparently. On the summit of this ridge, and in different layers along the outcropping edges of the ridge, are great quantities of marine shells, which are regarded as of very modern cre- taceous types. A few hundred feet south of Spriggs’s opening, a party sunk a shaft eighty feet with the intention of cutting the bed of coal; the shaft cut through the black clays of what I regard as cretaceous No. 4. In the clays that were thrown out of the shaft. were great quan- tities of Inoceramus, Ammonties, Ostrea, &c. The coal isevidently in close proximity to these cretaceous clays, but, I think, above them. From Chalk Creek to Echo City it is about four miles in a straight line; about two and a half miles of it is occupied by eight to twelve ridges of the coal strata, inclining 10° to 30°, averaging 20°. There is not less than one thousand feet of them exposed here, but the coal is mostly, and perhaps all the workable beds are, in the lower portion. There is a sort of valley which forms the line of separation between the coal strata and the Wasatch Group; the remaining one and a half miles is composed of the Wasatch conglomerates. In ‘the group of coal strata, all of which I suppose lie above the Coalville bed, shells of the gen- era Anchura, Gyrodes, Inoceramus, and Ostrea, are found. The evi- dence seems to point,to the cretaceous age of the coal group in Weber Valley. It is the only locality in the West that has come under my ob- a 168 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. servation where the proofs seem to be so conclusive; and yet i wish to make a still more careful examination of this locality before | commit myself fully. My reading of the rocks is, that they are either upper cretaceous, above what we have usually regarded as No. 5, or a portion of my transition series, more purely marine in their character than usual. If it is true that there must have been such a continuity in the pro- gress of events during geological times that there can be no general phys- ical line of separation between any of the great periods, and that the names Jurassic, cretaceous, or tertiary are merely terms of convenience— milestones, as it were, to mark steps of time—then why should not cer- tain marine forms of life extend up into the lower eocene, or in other words, did not the cretaceous deposits at certain localities continue on up, unchanged, into tertiary time? Whether the coal strata of the West are of cretaceous or tertiary age, or both, is a matter of indifference to me; I ofiy wish to discuss the subject from time to time, as the occa- sion offers, in the light of such facts as I can secure. The geologist is simply the interpreter of nature. He must seek to read the records as the Creator has written them upon the tablets of stone, and his ob- - servations will be of permanent value only when he is able to arrive at the true reading. Experience has shown that with a simple love of the truth, untrammeled by tradition or preconceived notions one is led step by step, slowly, perhaps, and through many difficulties, but eventually, to the light. We will now pass rapidly down the valley of the Weber River. The geological structure is very complicated, and there is much that is yet obscure. Weonly hope, at present, to contribute something toward a knowledge of it. Every year we hope to gather more facts and ex- tend our examinations over larger areas. Before proceeding further we might say a word in regard to the conglomerates which form the most conspicuous feature in the geology of this region. I now regard the whole group as distinct from any other—a separate lake basin. . The east- ern shore of it may be regarded as the same as the eastern rim of the great basin, of which Salt Lake Valley forms a part. The great thick- ness of variegated clays, sands, and sandstones, which we see from Car- ter Station to the middle of Echo Caiion, lie beneath the vast body of conglomerates in Echo and Weber Valleys. I have never been able to find a single well-defined fossil in this group, only a few small frag- ments of the shell of a fresh-water turtle. It occupies so large an area that it seems to me more careful explorations must bring to light some organic remains. From physical evidence I am inclined to the belief that it began its existence after that of the Green River Group, but be- fore the close of that period and extending up through the time of the deposition of the Bridger Group ; that is, the conglomerates are prob- ably on a parallel with the Bridger Group, or upper miocene. These conglomerates originally extended entirely across the Wasatch Moun- tains. In City Creek Cafon, on the west side of the range, these con- glomerates are finely shown, a thousand feet or more in thickness, in- clining from the range. There is the same evidence of want of con- formity as is Shown near the “ Narrows,” but no rocks more recent than the Jurassic limestones were observed between them. I do not doubt that further to the southward both cretaceous and older tertiary beds occur on the flanks of the mountains. The immense thickness of strata exposed in the Weber Valley seems to be made up, so far as I can as- certain, of Jurassic, triassic, and carboniferous rocks. Near Morgan Station, in limestones which appear to hold a position at the base ef the GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 169 series, I saw great quantities of fossils, among them several varieties of Productus, Spirifer, &c., well-known carboniferous forms. Fossils of the same age are quite abundant just over the range near Salt Lake City, and in many other localities all over the valley. There may be restricted areas in the Salt Lake basin where unchanged rocks of older date than the carboniferous occur, but they have so far escaped my observation, and we have no evidence of their existence from the ex- aminations of other explorers. In my last preliminary report I alluded briefly to a series of sands, sandstones, marls, &e., in the Weber Valley, between Morgan Station and Devil’s Gate, and also along the foot of the mountains in Salt Lake Valley proper. That they form a separate group from all others Ido not doubt, although in point of time they may Ve regarded as an extension upward of the Wasatch Group. I have given these the name of the Salt Lake Group, and I believe them to be of pliocene age. All through the mountain districts these later pliocene deposits occur, com- posed of light-colored clays, sands, marls, &c., not unfrequently yielding numbers of vertebrate remains. The Salt Lake Group has so far revealed but few fossils, only one species of Helix. During the middle tertiary period, it seems probable that the metamorphic and granitic rocks which form the nucleus of the mountain ranges were exposed to the erosive action of the waters to a great extent, and thus their decomposi- tion, mostly feldspar, supplied the materials for these pliocene deposits. Their uniformity in composition and color is quiteremarkable. In most cases these beds have been very slightly disturbed and do not conform to the older rocks, though | think they conform to the conglomerates. These recent beds underlie the benches or terraces which form so marked a feature in Salt Lake Valley. There are still more recent deposits in Salt Lake Valley, which, from their magnitude, deserve mention. AS we emerge from the Weber Canon into Salt Lake Valley we see on either hand high, rounded hills, which jut close up to the foot of the mountains. All the older rocks seem to have been swept away, leaving a very large area, from a point about ten miles north of Salt Lake City to the mouth of Bear River, occupied only by the arenaceous - clays of the quarternary period. The cuts along the railroad show the character of these deposits quite clearly. ‘Still more recent, and probably forming a portion of this deposit, are the immense accu- mulations of loose sands and drift or worn pebbles and boulders which are found everywhere in Salt Lake Valley and extend high up the valleys of the streams which empty their waters into Salt Lake. From the mouth of Echo Creek to the Salt Lake Valley, Weber Valley is covered with a prodigious quantity of worn rocks of greater or less size, from a small pebble to boulders two or three feet in diameter. The terraces are composed of fine sediments, mingled with pebbles and boulders. On the sides of the Weber River, in its passage through the Wasatch range, we see fifty to one hundred feet of this fine sand, gravel, and boulders, with a kind of irregular stratification, which indicates deposition in moving waters. I mention these details to show with what fidelity the records of the various changes, geographical and geological, of this valley, have been preserved. We see that by careful examination we can trace the history step by step far back, from the middle of the tertiary period up to the present time. E Let us for a moment glance at some of these intermediate steps and ascertain what bearing they have on the progress of the growth of our continent. The Salt Lake Group, which I have already described, I re- gard as an important feature in the history. 170 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES The sediments reach a thickness of eight hundred to cne thousand two hundred feet at least. It not only occupied a vast area in the great, basin, but extended up the valleys of the numerous rivers that flow therein. In the Weber Valley above the Devil’s Gate, or on the east side of the Wasatch range, this group occupies an oval area of twelve miles long and eight miles wide, or about one hundred square miles. It forms one of the series of mountain lakes which occupied hundreds of the oval areas, or parks as they are now called, in the great mountain system which extends from the Arctic on the northto the Isthmus of Darien on the south, and I presume also to Patagonia, in South America. The Salt Lake Group I regard as of pliocene age and contemporane- ous with the Niobrara, Arkansas, and Santa Fé Groups, with numerous other small accumulations of marls and sands in the Middle Park, and among the mountains far to the northward and throughout the Hum- boldt Valley, Oregon, &c. All the proofs we can secure, up to the pres- ent time, indicate their fresh-water origin. What geographical changes have occurred in this long period of time we will not now attempt-to de- . termine; we wish simply to express our belief that, at least since the middle tertiary period, the salt ocean has not had access to this great basin. If now we pass to what may be called for convenience the quar- tenary period, or the one that gradually merges into the present, we shall find that it presents geological features of no ordinary interest. In descending the Weber Valley, after we emerge from the canon of the Wasatch range into the open valley of Salt Lake, we observe on either side thick bedsxof sands and arenaceous clays, which must have been de- posited in the quiet waters of a lake, In the valley of Salt Lake, and especially in that of the Weber River, these drift deposits possess a thickness of several hundred feet, and of these materials the terraces are formed. Near Salt Lake City, in dig- ging a well, fresh-water shells were found in these deposits, forty feet below the surface, and on the north side of the lake, where these deposits are very largely exhibited, the cuts in the railroad, through the gravel and sands, reveal the greatest abundance of fresh-water shells, showing that at this time the physical conditions were unusually favorable for the existence of fresh-water moliuscous life. So far as I could ascer- tain, these conditions do not exist at the present time, or if they do, it must be only to a limited extent. Iam indebted to the kindness of Mr. George W. Tryon, jr., for the identification of the species obtained from this drift : 1. Fluminicola fusca. This species seems to have been very abundant; © it exists at the present time in the mountain streams. 2. Pomatiopsis Cincinnatiensis. 3. Amnicola limosa. 4. Valvata sincera. 5. Limnea desidiosa. 6. Limnea catiscopium. From these observations I infer that a vast fresh-water lake once oc- cupied all this immense basin; that the smaller ranges of mountains were scattered over it as isolated islands, their summits projecting above the surface; that the waters have gradually and slowly passed away by evaporation, and the terraces are left to reveal certain oscillations of level and the steps of progress toward the present order of things; and that the briny waters have concentrated in those lake basins, which have no outlet. The entire country seems to be full of salt springs, which have, in all probability, contributed a great share to the saline charac- ter of the waters. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE ‘TERRITORIES. , lurch But we must not omit to mention in thisconnection the Warm Springs, which are located about a mile north of the city. They issue from the limestone rocks near the foot of the mountains; all around the place are tufa-like inerustations of sufficient hardness to be used for walls and fences. The baths at this place are the most grateful I have ever enjoyed, and I cannot well conceive of a more desirable locality for invalids in a sanitary point of view. The following analysis of the water, made by Dr. Charles 8. Jackson, of Boston, is posted on the walls of the bathing- house, which any one can have the privilege of reading or copying: Three fluid ounces of the water, on evaporating to entire dryness in a platina cap- sule, gave &.25 grains of solid dry saline matter : Carhbonatelonmlimerand! maAonesian es.) 2c ses eee enn nee sehen 0.240 1.280 RET ORIG CVO TOUR Mer eho eT ARS ean ON AINA AE I oes ob oa ek cab shy Von 0.040 0.208 TPAD) Sih Se NI ee Sd REE aye a POO EC Pe a RG EL aL 0.545 2.907 CON OUI @TETIAIe) 5 KG AP ee eA CORN Ses AI Se LPG Ce Aa PE tr MS 2/4 72 18.421 SOG 56 SoS SEE LL IONE a My Ane On Se A RAT See eM atta stele OES a7 15.344 IMITRMEST yep cp yaa se ee) cain Hele ee OURAN ALIA Na enn re ee bea OLS TO. 2.073 SSS apo MATT CENT UG eA Ge en NN) A RUHNU eA Ae NG eee I a ee Ean As Leen ONG Oep 3.748 8.229 43.981 It is slightly charged with hydro-sulphuric acid gas and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant, saline mineral water, having the vaiuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The above is a true copy of the analysis, and the reader can extract for himself whatever information of value it may contain. About three miles north of the city are the Hot Springs, which are well worth the examination of the traveler. The water boils up from beneath beds of limestone at the base of the mountains, and it is only necessary to thrust the hand into it to ascertain that it is boiling hot. Meat is readily cooked in it, and eggs will be ready for the table in ‘three minutes. The dense column of steam that rises perpetually will always point out the locality of the springs. Quite a large volume of water issues forth, forming a stream four or five feet in width and six inches in depth. It flows into a beautiful lake not far distant to the west, called Hot Spring Lake. This lake is supposed to be supplied to some extent with water from hot springs beneath the surface. Still the hot water is not sufficient to prevent the existence of some kinds of excellent fish, among them fine large trout. Springs which, if they existed on the Atlantic coast, would ‘be of great value, are so common throughout all this region that they attract but little attention. Hot, warm, ‘and cold springs frequently issue from the ground only a few yards apart. In no portion of the inland West will the traveler so delight to linger and enjoy the novelty and beauty of the scenery and the ‘exhilarating influence of the atmosphere. But before leaving this pleasant region we may devote a paragraph at least to the remarkable inland sea which gives the name and fame to Central Utah. Although such streams as the Jordan, Weber, and Bear Rivers, with numerous smaller ones, have been for ages pouring a vast volume of water into this lake, it is now well known that it has no visible outlet; the question naturally arises, What becomes of all the water thus gathered into this area? We believe that it all disappears by evapora- tion. It seems, however, that of later years the evaporation has not been going on as rapidly as in former times. It is stated by the railroad engineers that the waters of the lake have risen nine vertical feet since 1864, and the general impression is, that all the lakes of the West are rising more or less. 172 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. We might note, in this connection, many changes which this valley must have been subjected to since the present configuration of the sur- face was outlined by the elevation of the mountain chains. Several times this valley must have been filled high up on the mountain sides with water; water, too, with but very little of that saline character which it possesses at this time. Indeed, i am convinced that, while the lake itself is not of modern origin, yet as a salt lake, in its present condition, it is of comparatively recent date. We find all along the flanks of the mountains, and high up in the valleys of the ravines opening into this basin, groups of strata hundreds of feet in thickness, which are doubtless of fresh-water origin, dating back into the pliocene or upper tertiary period. Then these beds have been disturbed by the elevations of the mountains, showing that while these ranges formed shore lines for the lakes of this period, they did not reach their present height until after the deposition of these tertiary beds. Resting upon them, and appar- ently deposited after the upheaval movements had ceased, are heavy beds of sand and gravel, and the flanks of the mountains all around the valley, as well as the sides of the mountains in the islands of the lake, reveal numerous water lines, showing most clearly the elevations to which the waters of the lake must have reached in later geological times. We ean hardly suppose that during these periods the waters here were sufficiently salt to differ from the other lakes inthe West. Jam inelined to the belief, therefore, that the saline materials of a vast area have been concentrated by time into the basin now occupied by Salt Lake, and that it is owing to its partial evaporation that its water is become So salt. Let us for a moment take a bird’s-eye view of the great inland basin of which Salt Lake Valley forms only a part. We shall find that what is termed the Great Basin of the West comprises the vast area inclosed by the Wasatch Mountains on the east, and the Sierra Nevada on the west, the crest or water divide of the Columbia on the north, and that of the Colorado on the south. We shall also observe that this great region has no visible outlet; that it is composed of a multitude of smaller basins or valleys, each of which has its little lakes, springs, and water-courses, their surplus water either evaporating or sinking beneath the surface. If we examine the elevations in this region, we observe a wonderful uniformity in the surface of the valleys, and find that none of them are much above the level of the waters of Great Salt Lake. As Captain Stansbury has remarked: These plains are but little elevated above the present level of the lake, and have, beyond question, at one time formed a part of it; an elevation of but a few feet above the present level of the lake would float this entire flat to a great distance, thus forming a vast inland sea. It seems probable, also, that at a comparatively modern period the briny waters spread out over a much larger area than at present, for both Frémont and Stansbury make frequent mention of large tracts covered with an incrustation of salt. The latter, in describing the broad plain country to the west of Great Salt Lake, says: The first part of the plain consisted simply of dried mud, with small crystals of salt scattered thickly over the surface. Crossing this, we came upon another portion of it, three miles in width, where the ground was entirely covered with a thin layer of salt in a state of deliquescence, and of so soft a consistence that the feet of our mules sank at every step into the mud beneath. But we soon came upon a portion of the plain where the salt lay in a solid state in one unbroken sheet, extending, apparently, to its western border. So firm and strong was this unique and snowy floor, that it sustained the weight of our entire train without in the least giving way or cracking beneath the pressure. Our mules walked upon it as upon a sheet of solid ice. The whole field was crossed by a network of little ridges, projecting about half an inch, as if the salt had expanded in the process of crystalization. I estimated this field to be at least seven GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Wie miles wide and ten miles in length. How much farther it extended northward I could not tell, but if it covered the plain in that direction as it did where we crossed, ics extent must have been very much greater. The salt, which was very pure and white, averaged from one-half to three-fourths of an inch in thickness, and was equal in all respects to our finest specimens for table use. Assuming these data, the quantity that here lay upon the ground in one body, exclusive of that in a deliquescent state, amounted to over four and a half millions of cubic yards, or about one hundred millions of bushels. Areas of greater or less extent, covered with this saline incrustation, oecur in numerous localities, so that we may infer that in all probability, at no very distant period in the past the salt lake extended either con- nectedly, or in isolated portions, over the greater part of the Great Basin. It would be a most interesting subject to trace the history of this wonderful lake far back in the geological past ; from the records which have been left in the sediments, I have obtained comparatively few facts as yet, but they seem to be quite conclusive, and I believe that each successive step in the changes which this great region has undergone can be interpreted with accuracy from the records left in the surface deposits, if they could be studied in detail. One of the most conspicuous features in this basin, is the system of terraces or benches which borders the valleys as well as the streams. These terraces seem to form an independent system in this basin, discon- nected, both in regard to time and the causes that produce them, from those so well known along the Missouri and Columbia Rivers. Not only do they seem to be universal over this great basin, but they are all of about the same level. Ihavenever observed more than two or three of these benches well defined, but Captain Stansbury speaks of counting thirteen successive terraces at the northern end of the lake, the highest about two hundred feet above the valley. In volume II of the Pacific Railroad Reports, page 97, there is a most interesting note in regard to these remarkable shore lines, which I am sure will be as instructive to those who may read this volume as it has been to me: The old shore lines existing in the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake present an interest- ing study. Some of them are elevated but a few feet (from five to twenty) above the present level of the lake, and are as distinct and well defined as its present beaches, whilst their magnitude and smoothly-worn forms as unmistakably indicate the levels which the waters maintained at their respective formations for very considerable periods. In the Tuilla Valley, at the south end of the lake, they are so remarkably distinct and peculiar in form and position that they attracted the attention of the least-informed teamsters of my party, to whom they appeared artiticial. From these beaches the Tuilla Valley ascends gradually toward the south, and in a few miles becomes blocked up by a cross range of mountains, with passages at either side, leading, however, over quite as remarkable beaches, into what is known to the Mormons as Rush Valley, in which there are still small lakes or ponds, once doubtless forming part of the Great Salt Lake. ‘The recessions of the waters of the lake from the beaches at these comparatively slight elevations must have taken place within a very modern geological period, and the volume of the water of the lake at each subsidence—by whatever cause produced, whether gradual or spasmodic—seems as plainly to have been diminished ; for its pres- ent volume is not sufficient to form a lake of even two or three feet in depth over the area indicated by these shores, and, if existing, would be anuually dried up during the summer. These banks are not peculiar to the vicinity of this lake of the basin, but were ob- served near the lakes in Franklin Valley, and will probably be found near other lakes, and in the numerous small basins which, united, form the Great Basin. They clearly seem to have been formed and left dry within a period so recent that it would seem im- possible for the waters which formed them to have escaped into the sea, either by great convulsions opening passages for them, or by the gradual breaking up of the distant shore, (rim of the basin,) thus draining them off, without leaving abundant records of the escaping w aters, as legible at least as the old shores they formed. But high above these diminutive banks of recent date are seen, on the mountains to the east, south, and west, and on the islands of Great Salt Lake, formations preserving ~ 174: GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. apparently a uniform elevation as far as the eye can extend—formations which, hastily examined, seem no less unmistakably than the former to indicate their shore origin. They are elevated from two hundred or three hundred to six hundred or eight hundred feet above the present lake, and may on careful examination afford the means of de- termining the character of the sea by which they were formed, whether an internal one, subsequently drained off by the breaking or wearing away of the rim of the basin, or an arm of the main sea, which with the continent has been elevated to its present position and drained by the successive steps indicated by these shores. These terraces seem to be a marked feature of the valleys of streams on both sides of the Rocky Mountains. In the valleys of the Missouri River and its tributaries, even the smallest branch, they are to be seen more or less conspicuous. Professor Dana describes them with much care, as universal on the Pacific coast. So far as those terraces are con- cerned which occur on the Pacific coast and the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, I believe they have a common origin; but the ter- races of this great inland basin might be synchronous or quite independ- ent of the others. Still, as both must have been formed near the close of the quarternary period, constituting the last act in the drama, we might consider them all as having a common origin. If we were to ex- amine the whole country west of the Mississippi, the broad plains of the eastern slope rising gradually to the foot of the mountains and to the very summits of the loftiest ranges, descend into the plains on the oppe- site side, and explore the valleys of the inland streams, the parks and ba- sins, we shall find everywhere, toa greater or lesser extent, the proofs of a very modern drift deposit, or that among the latest events in the geo- graphical history of our continent is the evidence that it was nearly or quite submerged with water. Some of the highest peaks may have pro- jected above the almost universal sea of waters; but the tops of the highest mountains, as the Wind River, Big Horn, Uinta, show the drift boulders at an elevation of twelve thousand feet above the sea. So far as my own observations are concerned, all the evidences I have been able to detect show that the superficial or quarternary deposits of the West are oflocal origin. In the vicinity of the mountain ranges the proofs of the origin of the vast mass of the boulder drift is veryapparent. The hills at the base of the mountains are often covered with masses of rocks, usually out slightly worn. And as we recede from the mountains these rocks become smaller and more worn, until far out in the plains they are re- duced to mere pebbles. But it is in the inland plains and parks, as Laramie Plains, the Great Salt Lake Basin, North, Middle, and South Parks, &c., that the greatest exhibition of this local drift action is best shown. Inthe Missouri Valley, and especially north in Minnesota and Dakota, these stray masses are scattered in the greatest profusion all over the surface of those broad, treeless plains. The character of the rocks themselves shows that they came from the mountains. Sometimes these rocks are strewn in belts across the country, taking a uniform direction. North of the Missouri River, from the Big Sioux River to Fort Clark, there are districts where one might walk for miles across the plains and over the hills without stepping upon the ground, so closely paved is it with worn or partially-worn boulders. The cele- brated Coteau de Prairie was no doubt outlined by these drift forces, and scattered over the hills are masses of these rocks. The accompanying figure 17 will convey an idea of a strip of country which forms a sort of water divide between the drainage of the Missouri, Mississippi, and the Red River of the North. As we have previously remarked, we believe that the quaternary period, although more difficult to study, will be found to be scarcely second in importance to any of the previous great epochs in geology. ; ; is i ™ é GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 175 A careful study of these modern deposits will undoubtedly show consec- utive links by which it was united te the tertiary period, in the same manner as the cretaceous and tertiary are connected in the case of NYE WN ENT RUITANSSEAN ESOC ALWIL TTR ors A eT eA OAT Lt cee Coteau des Prairies, on the Missouri. the great tertiary lake now indicated by the deposits on White and Niobrara Rivers, in Nebraska, in which the waters continued to cover a greater or less area through most of the quaternary period, at least, as is shown by the thick deposits of fine sand, with bones of mammals and shelis of existing species, on Loup Fork and its tributaries. The same may be said of the bluff deposit, or loess, which is so well displayed along the Missouri from Fort Pierre down below St. Louis, and, probably, ‘to the Gulf of Mexico. At a modern period itis probable that the waters of the ocean swept high up inland, reaching nearly to the foot of the mountains. The great water-courses had already been marked out, consequently we find the yellow mar! or loess fifty to one hundred and fifty feet thick in the immediate valley of the Missouri, but thinning out as we recede from it, or the vaileys of any of its branches. The existence of so many fresh-water mollusca and the entire absence of any marine forms indicate that the waters of the Mississippi and Missouri were either cut off from the direct access to the sea, or that the influx of such avast quantity of fresh water as must have flowed down from the mountain districts rendered completely fresh the iniand portions. We may suppose the temperaturejust prior to the present period to have been extremely low, and that the elevated portions of the West were covered with vast masses of snow and ice; that as the temperature be- came warmer this snow and ice melted, producing such an accession to the already existing waters that they covered all the country, except- ing, perhaps, the summits of the highest peaks; that masses of ice filled with fragments of rocks, worn and unworn, floated off into this great sea, and melting, scattered the contents over the hills and plains below; that as the waters diminished these masses of ice would accumulate on the summits of the foot-hills of the mountains, or at certain localities in the plains; and thus account for the great local accumulations of stray rocks at certain places. The materials, also, which must have been re- moved from all portions of the West drained by the Missouri and its tributaries by surface denudation, as is illustrated by the “ bad lands,” &e., were also swept into this vast inland lake, and then, carried beyond the reach of currents, would settle quietly to the bottom, almost with- out lines of stratification, as we observe in the loess. The last act was the recession of these waters to their present position, and the forma- tion of the terraces. We believe the terraces constitute the last change 1 176 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. of any importance in the surface of the western continent. We suppose that the channels of all the streams on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains were at one time occupied with water from hill to hill, and that the drainage was toward the sea. But in the Great Basin, which, so far as we know, has no outlet, the drainage must have been by evap- oration, for the evidence points | to the conclusion that it was entirely filled with water high up on the sides of the mountains. There is greater uniformity in the terraces in the Great Basin than in the valley of the Missouri, which indicates a far more equable drainage. Still, those along the flanks of the Wasatch Mountains number twe or three © principal ones, but these formations separate into five or six; and Stans- bury mentions one locality where there are ten or twelve of them. In the Missouri Valley, and along the eastern slope generally, the terraces vary much in height and importance. Fig. 18 shows the peculiar form of the main terrace as shown on the Missouri River, just above Omaha. The distant hills are composed of the yellow marl or loess, and the surface has been weathered into the rounded, conical hills. This por- tion is often covered with the drift’or stray rocks, or what I have called in a former report the erratic block deposit. On the terraces these erratic masses are scarcely ever found, and in the broad bottoms of the Missouri River seldom if ever. This fact strengthens the opiniomthat the terraces are really one of the latest features, and that they were formed during the drainage of the waters toward the sea after the temperature had reached nearly its present state. Oscillations of level may have contrib- uted somewhat to the formation of the terraces, but I am inclined to believe that the drainage or the contraction of the waters is the main cause. Thisisan important point, and I hope hereafter to treat it more fully when I have accumulated a greater number of facts. It has been my belief for years, that not only the Missouri River, bat all the branches, from the largest river, like the Yellowstone or Platte, that flowed into it, to the smallest creek, that has cut its canon deep into the sides of the mountains, were once filled with water from side to side, but have gradually shrunk to their present diminutive proportions. All over the West are large, dry beds which must have at one. time given passage to vast bodies of water. The flanks of the mountains, from the north line to Mexico, are gashed with gullies or canons, many GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. nb fy; of which are now dry as the dusty road for the greater portion of the year. I mention some of these details here simply to show how closely the story of the physical growth of our western continent is linked together, and that it needs only the careful, conscientious grouping together of the facts to secure this history step by step from the earliest commencement to the present time, and mold it into one harmonious whole. CHAPTER XIV. OBSERVATIONS ON MINES—ANALYSES OF COALS, ORES, AND SALTS. Although many valuable observations have been made in regard to the gold and silver mines of the West, I shall not attempt to present them in detail at this time. The elaborate and elegantly illustrated ‘‘ Report on Mining Industry,” prepared under the direction of Mr. Clarence King, United States geologist of the 40th parallel, about to be issued from the Public Printing Office, covers this ground far more efficiently than my incidental labors could do. Mr. R. W. Raymond is making a series of valuable reports as United States Commissioner of Mining Statistics, and the one already published for the years 1869~70 is quite exhaustive, and to these works the reader is referred. The latter report contains an excellent and lengthy statement of the condi- tion of the mines of the Sweetwater district. In the preceding pages some information is given in regard to those mines, and in this chapter a few additional notes, taken by Mr. A. L. Ford, mineralogist of the survey, will be of interest. The object of this survey is to study the mineral regions more in reference to their geological Telation's than with any special practical end in view. In a previous report the eiactaMné parallelism of the lodes was al- luded to, and an attempt was made to show that this fact is only one link ina chain of facts which may yet serve to unite the physical history of the mountain regions of the West together. Hundreds of observations were taken the past season, which serve to show the definite direction of the two principal sets of fissures or clefts. The unity of the origin of all these fissures, whether they assume the form of mineral lodes, dikes, or lines of fracture of mountain ranges, is a thought around which I wish to cluster all the facts that can be secured, Hereafter all these observations will be carefully sifted, and Fig. 19. those which seem to contain the elements ar of truth will be found valuable. eas: In this connection, two illustrations of > oe Z these fissures may be introduced, which will be of interest. They are made by the Jewett line relief process, and are very © excellent. One of them presents a fine section of the well-known Gregory lode at Central City. This fissure has a strike about northeast and southwest. The country rock is true gneiss, while the rr pe Se gangue of the lode is mostly feldspar and Gregory Lode, Central City, quartz. So far as the history of its min- COLORADO. eral contents is concerned, it is so wel] known that I need not describe: it, and the cut will explain itself. 12 G 178 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. The dike is in the same mountain, not more than three hundred yards from the Gregory lode. Itis exposed by an artificial cut for a road up Fig. 20. the side of the mountain, and but for A this circumstance would not have been visible from the surface. It is vertical, twenty feet high, and three to four feet wide. The materials in- closed in the dike are evidently very old basalt, yellow buff color, with cavities filled with decomposed feid- spar. The country rock does not ap- pear to have suffered changes, but the lines of bedding are entirely inter- rupted, and curved upward. The following notes on the Sweet- water Mines were taken by Mr. Ar- ze thur L. Ford, the mineralogist of the — me ~ expedition : Dyke, near Central City, Cariso Mines.— Worked by Mr. COLORADO. Roberts, of South Pass City. Shaft ‘one hundred and forty feet deep, sunk in vein of very refractory quartz- ite averaging four and one-half feet in thickness; strike of vein north- west and southeast, with dip of 70° to northeast. Cap rock and wall rock consist of tough gneissoid slate containing a little free gold, and occasionally showing a few small cubes of iron pyrites. The gold con- taining the quartz is very finely disseminated, but is ‘‘ free” and very pure, and hence easily amalgamated ; it contains about one-half ounee of silver. About four tons of ore are being taken out daily, with an average yield of $75 per ton, and sometimes doubling that amount. The quartz is of remarkably even quality, seldom falling much below the average yield. Mr. Roberts estimates the gold already produced to amount to about $75,000. The mine makes very little water, about eight or ten buckets being taken out hourly. Young America Mine—Mr. Incath, manager. On same lode as the Cariso; quartz contains considerable disseminated oxide of iron, but is not on-that account less refractory. Ore averages about $23 per ton—not visited. : Hast End Mine—On Miner’s Delight lode, Mr. A. C. Hasey, manager. Shaft sunk sixty feet, through slightly laminated, easily-worked quartz of varying color, that having a clear blue tinge supposed to be the best, especially if breaking easily into lamina of from one to one and one- half inches in thickness. Strike of vein northwest and southeast, with dip nearly perpendicular. Vein, like the Cariso, conforms with the gneissoid slates which form the wall rock, and which are supplanted toward the surface by a porphyritic gneiss holding small quantities of gold and overlying the vein, though not forming a true cap rock. Very small traces of pyrites are contained in both wall rock and quartz. All gold, however, seems to be full. Seven tons per day of ore were being taken out by hand labor, ore averaging $20 per ton. Gold not so pure as that of Cariso, though very bright and easily amalgamated. A great deal of the gold is in flakes of considerable size, especially between the lamina of the quartz. The quartz is so soft that no blasting is needed. A good deal of moss agate occurs in the vein, noticeable when the quartz is clear. Miner’s Delight Mine—Just west of preceding; the claims join. Lode «is the same, but pinches to an average width of two feet. Vein stopped GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 179 down eighty-five feet, ore averaging $35 per ton. Mine not in opera- tion at present, as buildings and machinery are in course of erection. The superintendent expects to take out fifteen tons per day. Young Canadian Mine—One-quarter of a mile west of the preceding. Shaft sunk eighty feet through barren lode before reaching pay streak, which was struck only two or three days before the mine was visited. The ore had not been assayed, but was pronounced by all miners in the vicin- ity to far exceed in richness any ore yet discovered in the neighborhood. THE COALS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.* The coals of the portion of our continent lying west of the Missouri River are only just beginning to attract that attention which their im- portance deserves. In the works heretofore published on the coal-fields of the United States, they have been almost neglected, and even in Dana’s last compendious work on mineralogy, he disposes of them with the remark that “tertiary coal occurs on the Cowlitz in Oregon and in many places on the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains, where a ‘lignite formation’ is very widely distributed; butitis rarely in beds of economical importance.” In his enumeration of the coal-fields of the United. States he mentions the Appalachian, the Illinois, the Rhode Island, and the Michigan basins. To the former two he accords an area of one hundred and twenty thousand square miles; to the latter five thousand square miles; while the area of the Rhode Island basin is left out of the account altogether; the total coal area of the United States being given as about one hundred and twenty-five thousand square miles. But besides these four basins there are the Eastern and Middle Rocky Mountain, the Monte Diablo, and the Oregon and Alaska beds to be considered. Those beds which occur on the east flank of the Rocky Mountains have been followed for five hundred miles and more, north and south; and if it be true that these are “‘fragments of one great basin, interrupted here and there by the upheaval of mountain chains, or con- cealed by the deposition of newer formations,”{+ then their extension east and west, or from the eastern range of the Rocky Mountains or Black Hills to Weber Cation, where an excellent coal is mined, will fall but little short of five hundred miles. Throughout this extent these beds of coal are found between the upper cretaceous and lower tertiary, (or in the transition beds of Hayden,) wherever these transition beds occur, - whether on the extreme flanks or in the valleys and parks between the numerous mountain ranges. Assuming that the eroding agencies to- gether have cut off one-half of the coal from this area, and taking one- half of the remainder as their average longitudinal extent, we have over fifty thousand square miles of coal-lands, accounting the latitudinal ex- tent as only five hundred miles; whereas we have no reason to believe that it terminates within these bounds, but on the contrary good reason for supposing that it extends northward far into Canada and south- ward with the Cordilleras. All this territory has been omitted in the estimate of the extent of our coal-fields. Classification of coals. The best classification of the coals is that of Professor Rogers in the second volume of his report on the geology of Pennsylvania. * By Persifor Frazier, jr. t Hayden’s Report on Geology of Colorado and New Mexico. 180 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ~ The basis of this division is partly chemical and partly structural, the genera being derived from differences in chemical constitution, while the species are made with reference to the physical properties of the coals. Thus he separates all coals into— 1. Anthracites containing 2 to 10 per cent. of gaseous matter, of which 1 to 2 per cent. is water; ash i in any ratio; specific grav- I, ity 1.50. 2. Semi-anthracites containing 7 to 8 per cent. of volatile combusti- ble matter; does not intumesce. ( i la carbon, 52 to 84 per cent.; volatile substances 16 IL. to 48 per cent.; ash, 2 to 20 per cent.; specific gravity, 1.269. 4 2. Semi-bituminous; volatile substances more than 11 to 12 per l cent. and less than 18 per cent. ll Hydrogenous; Me SHOISETEERS, 30 to 70 per cent.; specific ; gravity, 1.2 These varieties are ae ther split up, in the case of bituminous, into la, gaking coal; 1b, cherry coal; and 1c, splint coal. The semi-bituminous into 2a, semi-bituminous cherry coal; and 2), semi-bituminous splint coal. The hydrogenous, 1, cannel coals; 2, hydrogenous shaly coals, (Torbanehill, &c.;) and, 3, asphaltic coal, (Albert mine.) This classification takes no account of ‘the age of the coals, but merely considers the nature of the mineral. Accordingly it will be found con- venient of application to coals about whose age there is yet some difter- ence of opinion among geologists. Mode of occurrence. The coal of the Rocky Mountains is distributed along their flanks as several leaves in the great book of folded strata and invariably in the transition beds or between the tertiary and cretaceous. No- where in the world is there such a vast development of the recent coal measures, and in few places is their existence more necessary to the advancement and improvement of the region in which they occur. They lie regularly and in the main quite horizontally, though close to the mountain the beds are naturally tilted. The coals are called vari- ously lignites, brown, semi-bituminous and bituminous, though from their chemical constitution they ally themselves much more nearly with the latter. They are distinguished by their cleavage planes, which latter are nearly perpendicular to the planes of lamination and to each other, and give to the coal (which is usually friable) a stair form structure, almost resembling the crystallization of some clusters of iron pyrites. It is hardly worth while to say that these coals differ in different local- ities as to general structure and chemical composition. It would be an exceedingly interesting piece of work to follow up those beds from their easternmost outcrop westward and to seek to identify them in their different plications. Paleontologically these coals, containing almost exclusively plant fossils, comparatively few shells have been discovered, and those of species which leave the real question of ‘“‘ cretaceous or tertiary” undecided. The great mass of the fossils are of deciduous leaves, very much resembling now existing varieties. Broad leaves like the oaks and even nuts transformed into dull. red sandstone (San Lazaro) (in one case showing the kernel and shell beau- tifully distinct from each other, where a fracture of the latter had ex- posed the former to view) are met with in the drab clay and more espe- cially in some dark-colored sandstones near the coal. Here, almost on GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 181 the threshold of our own era, the conditions are similar in many respects to those which produced the long ago carboniferous age; the same great cretaceous sand formation ushering in the coal as the Pennsylvania No. 10 did the faise coal measures and the great conglomerate the real ones. Here also we see mammoth veins and small veins, indicating a longer or shorter period of deposition or a greater or less activity in vegetable growth. Here, too, anthracites and semi-anthracites have been reported, but occupying areas much more geographically restricted than is the case in Pennsylvania. And stranger than all, here, too, are oil wells, apparently the product of this same coal age, put whose supply has trickled through the loose cretaceous and Jurassic formations and found lodgment only in the impervious triassic beds, perhaps on the granite itself. It has been stated above that these coals belong in the main to the class of the bituminous coals, both by right of their chemical constitution and their physical properties. Ali the specimens, from what- ever quarter, which were obtained by your expedition belong to the bitumi- nous class, so that the inference seems fair that only the middle member of the Pennsylvaniaseries of anthracite, semi-anthracite, semi-bituminous, bituminous, and hydrogenous are represented to any extent in this por- tion of the Rocky Mountains. On the other hand Dr. Le Conte, in his report, mentions a true.anthracite, (88 to $1 per centum of fixed carbon,) and Hollister in his “ Mines of Colorado,” (the mineralogical part of which was written by Mr. J. Alden Smith) speaks of albertine coal as . occurring in certain parts of western Colorado. Albertine coal (or solid- ified petroleum, as it is sometimes improperly called) is one of the most hydrogenous coals known, and if it really exists, as Professor Denton of Massachusetts asserts it ‘does in White River in West Colorado, the extremes and middle members of the series-are to be found west of the Missouri. Still the general character of these coals is bituminous. The following are some analyses of them. Bituminous coal from Old Placer Mines, San Lazaro toupee: New Mexico.—This coal differs in appearance from all other coals found on the flanks of the Rocky Mountains, both in color and fracture. The former is jet black except on the conchoidal cleavage surfaces, where the half metallic bronze lustre, similar to that of the anthracites, is observable. Fracture conchoidal and uneven, splintery ; specific gravity less than that of the Pennsyivania anthracites. Milligram. AUST OU iO COE fay OLE LeNIT ANS) i ae pases NRA A A es aI A BO 308, 6 Weight i in water wade planer atberib olin cys sse fae en ay aera lee ine rea aia 110.0 Weight of wire 7 milligrams, allowing for i milligram loss of weight of plat wire in water, 6 milligrams rs Ware Aue AL AA IOUT ISAS ze Ad I 104. 0 338.6—104.0—234.6. 338.6—234,.6=1,443.3 specific gravity. First analysis : Per cent. Water andavolabilersuibs tances) ears uaise ee sare ace aie nearer a Aa Ae 22.0 AIST eSepeicuset sere ene tees spc t wet aie 8 eat Lu oS ane ak Spa en Sie a 8.2 SIX CCUGAED OMe a marr metsae niurtied MM Ni Wa Cis eR Air, ana ae eae eC BEN 69.8 ADO ET Re ches ih he eects MESH TE a gH Ota NS UN Sk NU A ea ee 100. 0 Second analysis \NIGIIGIE BBG CES BEER OG CASO COBO COCCI CERES EIER TI eae ste aria ner ta yr Ma ase aL MU TG ae 3.0 Nolabilegsiibstan cesta unre acmee me te NUR Aes ase GCL Ue OS RIB AM RLS 21.0 ANS)G1 Spe eA SERGI Tas UA RIL We AID EG OR 7.5 BEC ORC ADO (cle (it Et be eRe arama an MEIER Rue Rebun PORLIRW AE ty Ch EUR ee 68.4 oO bea ye it oie Fo Sate ECR mR nr Bae eR ean NG yh YRe hee (3/8 ee 8 bbe 100. 0 182 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Third analysis: F Per cent. Water! 2. ce eee ee Se ee ae uicic oclors of wie cine sla Se ee eae eye ee 3.0 Wolatile substances sccc asker arte n sets cere hawicl ec ie ate ete ee eee pe eee 92.0 PASTE hs tea oe ens Salcteare else Se eiapeae ate onin Gate wictebisw) aa Se See eis ear ee ee Wao PIXE OS CALDOMG SSA ae Soe mace wee 6 cic wis Rees Blac e Sie clei Sa CS ee 67.5 Layers Sie Met Ae Se Ae ca At SUVS GR LEA a ae ON TE ARTS I 100. 0 Fourth analysis : : Wiaterand volatile substances) sss en ee ao ee satis cc ose eee ee nee eee 22.0 SANG Teas et NEARY on a ee Eta ee Ses ees cee Zn cla Qe Ae a Hes) A IEC CEC AT DOM Meee alee ce la alee ts ae oy eae erat et Ge Shaan cy Se 70.5 “4 EON TEE LS FS ek ee ee en eet Gree LS Oe on PORE ES Sg 100. 0 Fifth analysis: WiriterandivolatileismbstanCeseceshece seee co ete eee ene. eee ee eee ees 93.0 ANGSH, 2 oS ha ce Ia See xg et nO ea a Melee Suey: SH fe Pai A ee Rd SN 7/5 (Corey OV af 2h ea he el TR PES Scat nes oh AO I SE HR EN a 69.5 ARC) ret Bs a ene at en ye ne Enea a Mod CS Ala a ee 2 ee Oa ssc 100. 0 * Sixth analysis, (F. P.:) AVEC TB erie mera r pact ib a nie in ice ahaa reps eie le wine dareic siecle tere fare erecta ee 5) Wolatile substances ues sk tse cin rk Sete Dies crete tee 20. 7d ENGI 5 Ea ae an a a rh a UU SR Gy A EE PA AES so OG od 6. 40 TEUTIDCexG LORI 6] OPN a Were ey tes ea ee Is Dyk A I a a le Dale OS 5G 70. 60 MO GME eels cas eters Oo atattelecmisisinie nie Riek oecm is nies Oe ee ee eee 100. 00 Seventh analysis, (F. P. :) NAV GW IGIE ar 2h A eu aN ee eRe ees an ee eRe A Oe boos 3.75 Wi@liawiad key "(shall oS RR aLeTe Pee ae ets ee re eee es eye a EPA NO oe 21.25 INGUIN), 5S SESE AME CRIES eee arene Sit aiwisteelineiyeceiceelee rete EERE ee Cee eet a eee 6. 00 ee 2x8 UEP Bl CVO oa ee Rene ae A a I A aes Ramee Aare Deetia Aha i of 68. 00 Boba BBB 35 cheers ies We ahs ee icleloicls ole OE ein c Oe Dennis te a Oe ee 100. 00 Average of seven analyses: “AYE ECS) eyes ens res pa ER pL Dy ne PR Peete te all PE EE NE A AS Soe 3. 00 Volatile substances..---. pe ERO ERED EVE AHCe LICE 0) MORES SRR ML ei ec 20. 8d INGO a RIS teh BASE A ScD gs Seite ERG Oe tees SA oe OE SLND e De REISE LL SL 8 Wa23 LBTOsCevEl COAT el 618) Ls yea ey Ree a aS yar Oy tne Sg Le Ree ee RERUN ro a scad 69. 09 BIRO Gal fos eon ote fs ore oe EES SE Geis delete fale ores eine ttale Seales CEE CE eee 100. 17 Of sulphur 0.72 per cent. was obtained. Bituminous coal from Marshalls property near Boulder City, Colorado Territory—This coal is black, (mm powder dark brown,) and when ex- posed to the atmosphere friable, as are all of these tertiary coals. Its frac- ture is conchoidal and the luster of the smooth surfaces of fracture resinous. NWCCHICIOTA WILY, eiemeee seem ereee eee mee eres eke eee eee m ere eae eae 1, 412 Weiotnibinvan sooo" ooo saree incinceeceinecisneetee tdeiew.c <2 eee 595. 06 \W/GIInig Tih WANIGIE SG aoe peaseaases cores Sab acd couSnbasSg006 heise Jee 173. 08 First analysis: : Per cent. WAL OTR ci cece wee i, Jee See a ee he ee 16. 00 ViolatllemsulosbanGesisee ces sees cc eee ee ee ee 38. 00 MimedvGarbomaee seemasasce wee bl soe ce eee eS a 42.00 oy atte erage oe St ae AO ae a A Oe RUN Annan. Falk | fr ae oy 4.00 Raye Se Se ae eM EERE i SL 8 odd aad 100. 00 *The analyses marked F. P. were made by Mr. Franklin Platt, jr. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 183 Per cent. Second analysis: V@SHiee GANG WOME) ENS Co 50 Us cone abo BeOS OO EO Cob nEbS autooouoos cos4 54. 00 ASIN Us Saba QRR SSPE See BCa ECC Dac ain eee Maa... Me iua aa St uy 4,06 Fixed carbon agcbosddecée soso cose case He Ooms co cd ooRp ESSE SsaUssseonod ener sue 42,00 “7 RCORTEN Les EEE Sam cer cet ui LA el pe AR Mie eR eA. MMOD ooo NIC 2. TICINO). (OB) Third analysis: \NY BURGE SSS EE CIO SUSE RD ICSE re NI aes eA eNO ey HEE 1 Ay pr RENE eT 16. 00 \VOLaimMle STONING coed osdoue cabodd beds HooSES boocescocuee Geos seb eebieabs tobe 38. 00 S80 coscseoasdnsoccs sas ccodbad onsen osobed HscotiedgE boogs0 bboc ooeeHonAboce 4,50 IP TOE CTA COM AeES Gees Sa SHOES OCT SS RICR CATS ERE Ace eens tise Ape a lhe aa Ae ey ee aR Al.5 BROTH po CS HC OBESE AS CECB O CASE UR IECHE a MLV a nH Mnmr RSs eS ati) in ee ke 100. 00 Fourth analysis: \WETEE abo Sep SSS SSeS CUBA RS Sore ese talent Satay Ans auier es bra UMaine hase es ee hid (Uae 16. 00 Molatiletsmbstances2 2: 223522. 8252 bobo cone mobs neu nipapADo oes oon UdeScs 38. 00 ASIN soos CERB AE BOBS D AEE CSOSA Cees igi Bat rel vine ta DN A nN a OMe sk put 5. 60 JETSREGL GBT ONT Bis ricp eens er tae THER Te eS a TEN a EN a IAA EL be as UA A 41. 00 HTC byeni pee ceeceeesee (as area eR eho ie a ATUL ye ROE PIU AR GM cA Can ss NuONa ea ee pes() (YE) () Fifth analysis: \WANIGIE. Lo 63 Hes Beto GEE SESE HEH Bey Stier rnin Aas imei aD EAE ek Cad a Zina oy COBO Ut 16. 00 OMA IVE VSM SHAINGCES see ots ete aA ea IM aI BW) SNES Ly oes GS a UTA Ue A Ly SETI 38. 00 ETERGOL GAIA DOMUNS Beers ae RESP n ny See A EUAN De Gl Da eK ek ina ack 41. 00 INE SopeSo QSOS RIES OEE GEA ee es cine ata Shi tal AAT aM OL Ry Rs aH MRM RE CCIAUL 5. 00 RGR SSR SES a i ae ees PaaS Mast eae an RTOS RU PREM oO 1 100. 00 VV GHIGR? 22 BESS SSS MEE CESSES em RE Ea RAN LS eae CUCU CIE ace a 16. 00 V7 CUEING ASU OSTIR TOKE es essen RO es ae es te HL UU HY De mea a 38. 00 ASIN SS 6S CEB SHAOGO SE ISS Bie ee ree so O Mar tee EIN als AA aN MORE aR NIC 4.50 TE TiSsereyal CTEY OO NN Se panes eee eee I ae aaa A UD ecg REL Ne atts a ce 41.50 "DIRE Ss ee Ph eA ae A Ure LUMO eC 100. 00 Naren aAndivOla til Gz:sUDSUAN CES! acco so cere Saar el be ay seers Gl Cie he kunls Se eiete i 50. 80 ASI Sp bheCUS Se ie SESE Ore mete aD Rye ELL Lal iG sean Pa Ul arse hala a ema ACCUM NU fot 3. 60 TETORECL CBI UOT pests rse ts ee Sees SE ee ree nla cen Iw BE Ata NPY A Og RI MUN UH eat ARE (eh op 45. 60 TRG TES SESS SAS ae Oe ee te MACHT UEC UE NMRA Ia ona AG STA TUAOR ADH O88 f 100. 00 Bituminous coal from Evanstown, Union Pacific Railroad.—This coal is black, (even in powder,) has a highly resinous luster, and a fracture like the other coals of this class, irregular and conchoidal. It appears better able to resist the action of the atmosphere than the other tertiary coals examined, and is not nearly so friable. Its specific gravity is 1.341. : 4 Per cent. First analysis: \WEHIC PBC SSE AREAS CELA eS haa a ae Re ARO De ION eee ee LOA WON eis KW Be Ee ene 6. 00 Wella nmi leer opie navercrsy 95 SASS 5 58S Me Ns eo Os EN TE eR a SO ha 38. 00 LS) SS SPR ee ABE SAE EE eS ATEN oA Th Bering uae ist ey niveau A WEN REED ed a AL rN OD A DNL 8 7.50 LEE E CE CAL DOM to stalatyee tae ae tee re ht witha ath Gy MORI Naeme MAS STEM ey a 49, 50 100. 00 EDO en re oo ead mech SRR RT MVM UML NC at hy 0 ae 5. 50 184 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Per cent. PAG aia aie iais ols lelmmiare eke slele etisiotelsreieteret traps einiaia aia cieie ts ia aie lane ala ae 7.70 Mixed CarbOmice lersdc Get pce eee hia ke wtetere bie le cress ietele Dine me che cane eee eee eee 49, 80 100. 00 Third analysis, F. P.: ‘ Wiateteecereere ae SO8S6.005 poco Soe SOE Sas OS SOC Noemoe UsoSEO shodoo soGses sace 6. 00 Volatileisubstamces see esos eee ee Sk Sl 37.00 TA eR ey arogey tae hata atotarer ciaturettnlete ya alek erage amt erets Lice velcie enone aR CES eae ee er 7.60 CORE DOM esa vaeietee erate ote male vatetera ote teleret tone toropate vacrotai cla Voimtote tel were Relate ee Ce 49, 40 100. 00 VAUD CT ee ei sone foie oie ised wise ciaisia erat n aie ts eerale an eme Gr re aan Saveincintaicierel css ee 5. 83 NOVatMerSUDSbANCES 22 Soles eee tee see ee ieee Mee ne Ly NU yee poly ene 37. 40 ANSTO cy eps eS Nae RE ps Ue LUO oe Nee nee BEA AE el dU eg a oo aa AN 8 Ly 7.46 PEE ONC AT DOM Mesias Cane) etait ts Mick reeset Ae ae ee Wee erent eae CAN 49. 50 100. 19 Coal from Elko.—A lignite of light-brown color and low specifie gravity, possessing the feel and much of the appearance of wood; is tough and tenacious when pounded or rubbed in a mortar. I is filled with minute specks, of metallic color and luster. As the coal had been kept a long time in a warm room, and had there- fore altered in respect to its per centage of water, this and the volatile substances were determined together.. A fresh specimen would proba- bly contain from 7 to 10 per cent. water. . Per cent, NiVaheLan CsvOlabile, SUpPSLANGES hos pense aiolec ese alee ieee eee EEE EEE Eee 63. 50 Cie irel Oona oe BS 2k Pe A I NT I eh A Re ale Ae ae ae Ae ee ee os oSeooos 92.00 PAST 5 Mec Seth DD BO eal ee Oe A Ue Boo ee MR A Mba AEN NC ee Coe 14.50 CHT vy eRe cerh Ree ee SaaS aetna RA kee R ae nut me RY OS ein oes Oc 0. 82 100. 82 Ash is of a pure gray color, a fine dust-like powder, containing but a small percentage of soluble salts. Towa coals.—From specimens of coal sent by Mr. Miller, of the Omaha Herald, from Des Moines and Ottumwa, lowa, the following analyses were made, and may be interesting to compare with those of the Rocky Mountain coals: Per cent. No. 1, (Ottumwa,) specific gravity, 1.327: WATS y eee a) Aas a a ee a ee ia Be ae ae eee Gala Na a Soooeo 56 12. 00 Volatile substances.-...---.....-.- Sis Sok EUS EEE ANS Sa MRA a oc 32. 00 JASONS aes ere A Ae eee ee ae hE eR dE se oo 5 12. 00 BGP ECRGAT POM = cyst as og aS eed I Re SSH pe a ae Se eye ee 44, 00 TRON path ke OO easel WE ly I ia eee di ae SU ea a) 100. 00 No. 2, (Des Moines :) ; RUIN MONEE epee ee ea ickte e's Dinime Se ninmisn ble Scie hak Re Mien ene eee eee ee 7.0 Volatilessubstancess 2 Lee L252 eee ee i I ee eee Ne 47.6 TDTBAeve hoe OLS Dees SS eas Se ee i he oe Cee Ae RS EE Se ‘ted 41.4 AH estan Sc EIN To SS Sea Ge Le ee 40.0 AWE ran Gg ute le ILLS SY ee a ep I ERIN ood ads 100. 0 Sulphur existed in both the specimens to the extent of, perhaps, 1 to 2 per cent., but was not quantitively determined. e GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. . 185 Considerations affecting economic value of these coals. A coal to be of value in the arts and as a domestic fuel should have certain properties which render it easy of transportation, not easily nor deleteriously affected by weather or climate; should be capable of rapid ignition, and of having its combustion regulated to suit the different circumstances attending its employment; should be capable of raising proportionately to its bulk and weight a large amount of water to the state of vapor, and should contain within itself the least quantities of such substances as by contact with the grate bars at-a high heat would injure them, or whose products of combustion are poisonous to vegeta- tion, or to animal life, or are corrosive. It follows from some of these conditions that the coal to be of the greatest possible use must neither be crumbly nor so compact and tough as to render its oxidation difficult by permitting a comparatively small extent of coal surface to be brought in contact with the oxygen of the draught. Also, for the same reasons, it must not cake or run together so as to exclude the air from its interior parts, nor pulverize whereby much loss is sustained by the dust being carried through the flame and up the chimney without being consumed. Then the cleavage of the coal should be such that a large amount can be stored without waste of room in the interstices between the lumps, for it is evident that more material can be packed in a given space when the form of the separate pieces is somewhat regular and the surfaces are close together, than where each lump touches the neighboring lump in only a few points, leaving an un- occupied space between their surfaces. It should be:hard enough to © resist the grinding and pulverizing effect produced by motion as in the bins of a steamer or the tender of a locomotive. In the article on the subject in Professor Rogers’s report on the geological survey of Pennsyl- vania, the author for many reasons leans to the belief that to the many economic purposes the semi-bituminous coals are better adapted than any others. Krom the blacksmith’s forge and the smelting and roasting furnace to the uses of the locomotive or the kitchen, the Rocky Mount- ain coals have been sufficiently proved in the last few years to ansver admirably all the requirements made of them. As it is not possible to obtain ail these good qualities in any single fuel, (see Rogers’s report,) the problem in every case is to select that which possesses the greatest number of them. ‘For instance, for railway purposes the coal of the Real Dolores, though containing a higher percentage of fixed car- bon, is less valuable than some of the semi-bituminous coals, because it is neither so easily ignited nor is its combustion so easily regulated, whereas for domestic and all other purposes where the hard dry coals are preferred it is a most excellent fuel. Those coals which disintegrate readily on exposure to the weather, (this includes most of the beds on the eastern flanks of the Rocky Mountains, and in fact the majority of the western coals everywhere,) are not so servicgable to the engine- driver (whatever their percentage of carbon may be) as others with more ash and water but also more power of resistance to atmospheric influences. The examination of two samples of brown coal from Wyoming Terri- tory, by the very able chemist, Dr. F. A Genth, of Philadelphia, will be useful for comparison in this connection: ; 1. Coal from seven miles east of Cooper Station, on the old stage road, Laramie Plains, Wyoming Territory, gave: Per cent. 186 _ GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. - Per cent (CeO Se eeeoodoana Gade Gdbode osoU co ob Cone abaGoan Gude aMnoos SouGeadassouss se 7 Oe Ash, aioe ISRO gS Sa soi 5 55450 4550gu Beeade sasdds S456 5 4403 ccse5ea5 soene 4,56 100. 00 Tt contains 1.38 per cent. of sulphur, which is equal to 2.59 per esi of pyrites. A determination of the caloric power of this coal showed a reduction 22.20 parts of lead from the oxide, by one part of coal, while pure carbon reduces 34 parts of lead. 2. Coal from Point of Rocks Station, North Pacific Railroad, Wyoming Territory, gave: Per cent. IMIOISEUME Petrie 1c ecole ice o ecole ie, ars ha ere eee area le Siero e ee CY eo &. 54 Volatilebmatber .. 22s ce Ssictt Se) Sale SENS EAS SR Ae 30. 60 Gar pommeretnr ese ee ae De ci ee eee petal SG eee EE ee | eee A 52.34 WAST RUE DO ye 5) d.csaiseio bite! Swick ls ce Cre eislenela meine wie CaP yeeya lien svataiaia/e ale OSs Se 8. 52 100. 00 It contains a very minute quantity of sulphur, only 0.04 per cent., which is equal to 0.075 per cent. pyrites. One part of this coal is capable of reducing 21.80 parts of lead from the oxide. The following notes present the results of actual experiments on our different western coals, by Mr. Samuel Purnell, superintendent of the Omaha Gas Works. It will be seen at a glance that their practical character renders them worthy of attention. It is my wish to include in these reports all the information possible that will be likely to DEO T® of practical interest to the West: The results of the working of one ton of lignite, or Rocky Mountain coal, from Evanston, Utah, in the Omaha Gas Works, are as follows: WwW eight of coal used, 2,000 pounds; gas made, 7,400 cubic feet; time of charges 34 hours; “tested in clay retorts, at bright orange heat, (21 90°;) candle power of the gas at the works, 7 to 8; but will not carry its carbon in the street mains, burning blue in the town ; water produced from the coal, 20 gallons; tar produced, 1 gallon. The eas possessed a most offensive sulphurous odor, which neither ‘lime nor oxide of iron purification would remove, and which was neutral to test papers. The residue in the retorts, as coke, consisted of 12 bushels of earthy breeze, in small cubes, which, when put in the furnace fires, smothered them. The coke is worthless for heating pur- poses. The coal is worthless for gas purposes. Coal from Rock’ Springs, Wyoming, was also tested, and it is precisely similar. I have carefully analyzed as sample of coal taken from a bed seven inches thick, nine miles below Omaha, on the Omaha and Great Western Railroad. Per cent. NMolanilemmatbereeeaee see hoes Soe a eee ute rola ia Ian ae eh ay ske cae at et ae 42, 62 CO ran ker ee Ly a ae Pa A nH ey Hee A Se SO 54, 88 TANS nee ee heel tone areca Mune age ERI uy REALS CN, NER Vea, RED Cue a a ee ee 11,00 Sully eS Sse PPh se te bette tic dls, Geeta salem aioe Hiner tsa ae ae eae 00. 50 100. 00 The coal is black, bituminous, and contains in small quantity sulphide of lime, sul- phide of iron, and oxide of iron. The coke is good, of moderate firmness, and of bright luster. By the sujoined table of comparative “analyses, the coal is found to be almost identical with the Missouri and Iowa coals. Coal. Volatile matter. Coke. Ash OETA 5 A/S oS BU Re Pa es RES mm cas rs Alacra 42, 87 46. 13 11. 00 MespVloines wow alas: Sasi eee Sl eee 44,00 47.50 8. 50 Gywimonwnn, ION a eee = SMe eat uae DNC ga NS ah 44,50 4A. 57 10. 93 red erickemlOwee eerste i nccetae cacao eae e 47. 67 42. 33 10. 00 Osage River, Missouri ------ SIRs arly Oey LE ee Ss Ase 3.50 51. 16 5-34 RocmMRiverwmillinoisgeesaenes ccc cence oe cee See ae 44,50 45. 50 10. 00 Clamkspommes, Wasi \ViteaiMe) 455.555 SoG cseossedaeconse 41. 65 56. 74 1. 60 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 187 ALKALI FROM PUNTIA PASS.* The word alkali is used on the Plains to indicate a saline deposit which covers often many miles of low, arid country, and appears in streaks stretching far away in all directions and sometimes giving the country the appearance of a plain covered by a sheet of snow. It is very generally believed by the inhabitants that this alkali is the cause of the sterility in connection with which it almost always occurs; but the fact is that one circumstance favors its continuance upon the soil and interferes with vegetation, and that is the want of rain. Any continu- ous rain would undoubtedly dissolve this material and carry it away in the streams or through the subsoil. It is not quite certain that a soil charged with the salts of which this alkali is composed would not fur- nish more nutriment than another to certain kinds of growth. At all events, where the experiment has been tried the plants have grown re- markably well upon it with proper treatment. The probable origin of these deposits has. been thought to be the evaporation of numerous shallow pools, perhaps left by the subsidence of a large inland sea or system of lakes, and the analogy in chemical constitution between this material and the deposit around the margins . of still-existing pools (like the Soda Lake, twelve miles from Denver) seems to bear out the hypothesis. This alkali is a grayish-white deposit, mixed up with the dry roots and stems of sage-brush and other vegetation, from which it derives frequently a reddish-brown tinge. It is dry and efflorescent. It has a decided alkaline and salty taste and low specific gravity. Tf contains soda, lime, and magnesia, sulphuric acid, hydrochloric acid, and a small quantity of nitric acid, and consists of sulphates of soda, lime, and magnesia, chloride of sodium, and nitrate of soda. SODA FROM SODA LAKE. (12 miles from Denver, Colorado Territory.) A white, efflorescent salt, failing to powder on exposure to the air, con- taining sulphate of soda, sulphate of lime, sulphate of magnesia, and chloride of sodium. Per cent. Suhplatevob, sod ayia hak ye Nos ys cps esr al a ee SS ey eames 63. 87 SUI L POWs) OLE GANS SI UPS RE re an ene LAE RIA A Bat 9.70 Wiateromcrystalization of) the efiloresence..2 52. so so2 2h. 32 See. eases cineceincee 21.88 Ciloridevowsodium, sulphateyot maonesian, & Ces. oss seees aces se ee sete eee aoe 4.55 tI inclose the results of the analysis of the specimens of alkali col- lected during last summer’s survey of Wyoming Territory. No. 1. From Alkaline Lake two miles east of Independence Rock, in the Sweetwater Valley : : Per cent. Sulphateromsoda(NaOysiOsy) stacey eters ates oo area eee eee meee aeons 73.17 (Cioikoverovescast texoxe bummer) (ONE, (OM) oe Ne es Bee ei Sree MT Bee Re BO es eevee oes oe 3.85 Carbomatexotsoo ary C(oiyg loss) ye say or sae oem iiss eeoeh Lapa a glea Das Pyne Lice OIF 22. 98 100. 00 * Prepared by Persifor Frazer, jr. t Prepared by Arther L. Ford, mineralogist to the survey. ; Owing to this specimen’s effervescing on being dissolved in water, it was impossi- ble to determine the proportion of carbonic acid, but the salt seems to haye been a sesquicarbonate, the whole specimen being probably identical with or similar to thvt referred to by Dana in his mineralogy, under the head of Trona, as occurring near t}© Sweetwater River. 188 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. No. 2. From alkaline effloresence on damp ground, seven miles west of St. Mary’s Station, in the Sweetwater Valley : Per cent, Sulphaterorsoda,.@NaO ois) Ole. se eselste clea ieicecie ie eeiae eee eee eee 88. 93 Chloridejotysodium WONa CDN bose soe ceeticmiseeelncie ices ieee eee eee eee Eee 11.63 100, 56 No. 3. From deposit near Pacific Springs: Per cent Sulphabeyotesodan Nai; (SOs) saciesesac cee saincniea sn cae eee cicicieislae ceeel eee 82. 23 Chiorideyotjisodium,, (Na; Cl) Sosy eo ee oe eee. Seta ec eeinei ete eee eee 3 OS Carbonaterotsoda, (by loss) eso 2 sense see sine eenalsieee see = cel scien eee -- 14.82 100. 00 No. 4. From deposit by evaporation of Aikaline Pond, near Big Sandy River. i No. 4, (a.) From upper part of bank, where deposition commenced : Per cent Sulphatelotisodasi@NaiO lS Os) esse ae cisce eae ee cleric ee eee ee ae epee 64. 65 Chiorideiofsodium,(Na, (Clio 22.) eee hs Sea siee cals seeiels oe eee eee Sy30546 100. 11 _ Per eent. Sulphate) of soda, NaiO, 6/03) tec foe sure as ee ar C@hiorideyorsodium (NaCl) ieee eel sea rleeisleia teenie nese cee e eee Eee ree 5. 23 100. 15 No. 4, (¢.) From lowest part of pond, when last deposition took place, consists of slender orthorhombic prisms of pure sulphate of soda—she- nardite: Sulphatelot soda, ((NaiOs SiOs) heaton occas cccces ceeee cee eee eee cee eee 100. 00 All the specimens appear to be absolutely free from any salts of po- tassa, al examination by the spectroscope even failing to show the pres- ence of that base. (Ae yo TO REPORT OF PROFESSOR CYRUS THOMAS. PART I.—AGRICULTURE. PART I.—A LIST AND DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW SPECIES OF ORTHOPTERA, WITH REMARKS ON THE CALOPITENUS SPRETUS, OR “HATEFUL GRASSHOPPER.” REPORT. DEAR Sir: [herewith present a report of my investigations in regard to the agricultural capacity of that part of the Rocky Mountain region over which your operations as United States geologist have extended during the past season. Although the immediate route of this expedi- tion was confined principally to Wyoming Territory, I have, in accord- ance with your instructions, endeavored to complete my report on that part of Colorado and New Mexico examined in 1869. By your direction I also visited the Sait Lake basin, and have added a short account of that interesting section, including a few items concerning other portions . of Utah. At the risk of being somewhat monotonous by the repetition of sim- ilar details, I have endeavored to confine myself strictly within the lim- its of the subject upon which I have been required to report. Instead of giving details in a journalistic form, which would have amounted tolittle more than an itinerary, I have endeavored to follow out as far as possible the plan pursued in my report of last year, describing the areas inthese Territories drained by the large rivers, as separate dis- tricts. I have divided the entire region into two parts called “ divi- sions,” one including the area east of the divide, between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific, and the other the area west of it. The east- erm division contains. five districts, corresponding with the Rio Grande, Arkansas, South Platte, North Platte, and. Wind Rivers. ‘The western comprises the Green River District and Great Salt Lake basin. I have attempted in most instances to make some estimate of the amount of tillable lands in the different districts and sections. As a matter’ of course I do not claim that these are anything more than approximations, made in some instances upon slender data, yet they are not mere guesses, but are made up from estimates of the smal- ler subdivisions and separate areas, and are, at least, near enough the correct amounts to give.a general idea of the agricultural value of the different districts and sections. Although I exclude from these esti- mmates any probable future success and use of artesian wells, yet I in- clude ail possible present means of irrigation. Respecting those parts of these sections which I was unable to visit in person, 1 have endeavored to obtain the most reliable information possible. Your operations during the past season have developed the facet that in regions which have generally been considered sterile and unproduc- tive, there are large areas of land which by proper efforts may be ren- dered tillable and made to produce useful crops. In my investigations I have constantly looked forward to the con- struction of a map of these Territories which will show the comparative extent and locality of the irrigable areas, the pastoral lands, and the timbered sections. Such amap, accompanied by a condensed state- ment of all important facts connected therewith, would not only be of great value to those who contemplate removing to the West, but would be a valuable vade mecum for our public officers, Senators and Represen- tatives, and the public generally. 192 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. The subject of irrigation is one inseparably connected with the aegri- cultural development of this section, and deserves to be carefully stud- ied. The time given for the preparation of this preliminary report has been too short to enter upon a thorough discussion of it, but I have added a few facts in my concluding remarks, in order to direct atten- tion to the data needed in its investigation. If you continue your surveys I would suggest the propriety of filling up as rapidly as possible the vacuities in the data obtained in regard to the sections already passed over. I am aware that you did not possess the facilities for doing this in your previous expeditions, but the value of your previous labors, so far as the agricultural investig ations go, will be very much enhanced by doing this. I allude to the measurement of the principal streams, their descent, volume, velocity, &c., and the compar- ative altitude of the different levels and plains above the level of the irrigating streams, by some instrument more accurate than the ba- rometer. I take pleasure in acknowledging my obligations to the citizens gen- erally along our route, for information obtained from them, and espe- cially to the officers and others at the military posts, for their uniform kindness and willingness to assist me in my investigations. Iam also under obligations to the Denver Pacific and the Kansas Pacifie Rail- roads, for passes over these roads and information furnished. Nor can I refrain from mentioning the fact that Iam indebted to Wm. N. Byers, esq., of Denver, and Dr. Latham, of Laramie City, for valuabie ma- terial furnished me for this report. Iam aware this report bears marks of haste, and that it is far from being complete, but trusting that it will prove satisfactory, I remain yours, very ‘respectfully, CYRUS THOMAS. Professor F. V. HAYDEN, United States Geologist. PART I.—AGRICULTURE. INTRODUCTION. In studying the agricultural capacity of the vast Rocky Mountain region and broad plains of the West, and calculating the probable development of the same, it is necessary to lay aside, to a great extent, all our ideas of agriculture based upon experience in the States. For not only are the physical aspects of this portion of the West so different from the eastern half of our country as to strike the most superficial observer, but the climate is almost completely reversed, the thermom- etric and hygrometrie conditions bearing no such relations to vegetation and agriculture here as there. Hence, the criteria by which we judge of the fertility and productive- ness of the soil, and of its adaptation to given products, (except, perhaps, the strictly chemical test,) do not hold good here. The pale appearance of the soil, the barren look and stunted growth of a spot, are by no means conclusive evidences of its sterility, for the application of water may show it to be rich in vegetative force. Plants which are considered as incompatible in other sections are often here found growing side by side, while others usually associated are here never, or but seldom, found together. Even the constants—latitude and elevat:on—eannot always GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 193 be taken as true indices of temperature and vegetable life, on account of strong counteracting local influences. The temperature of a valley, during the latter half of the summer and through autumn, may present an average which would indicate a climate adapted to the production of even tender fruits; while a record of the temperature of the same place, during the spring and the first half of the summer, would show a very different average. And even a knowledge of this fact may not thoroughly acquaint us with the climate and the agricultural capacity of the place, as the presence of lofty mountains near by, with snow- covered summits, may reduce the temperature of the nights very low as compared with that of the day, and thus retard the growth of crops which otherwise would mature and produce well. On the contrary, at other points a lofty range may act as a wall against the cold winds, and under its cover may be found nestling little valleys with a comparatively mild climate. Nor are these imaginary cases, for I could refer to numer- ous instances of each class. Hence, I conclude that any attempt to generalize by taking latitude and elevation, or even the average annual temperature, would require so many exceptions that the result would be of no practical value. Yet these are by no means to be excluded. On account of the reasons given, and others equally potent which might be mentioned, the agricultural capacity of this region must be studied from its own stand-point; and each section must be carefully examined. Otherwise we are very apt, from our experience in other portions of the country, to form erroneous conclusions. Injustice, on this account, is often done to this section by travelers who pass hastily through it, along the railroad lines, judging of the fertility and pro- ductiveness of a spot by comparing it with the rain-moistened land of the States. I recollect an incident which will serve to illustrate the truth of this remark. Riding in the cars, along the slightly-elevated bottom which flanked a little stream, but which, to the eye, had a very barren appearance—being sparsely covered with “ grease-wood” (Obi- one canescens) and little tufts of dry grass—I remarked to a passenger that, notwithstanding its barren appearance, this bottom could be irri- gated from the stream and would produce good crops of wheat, oats, barley, and the hardier vegetables. I could see that this remark pro- voked a sinile of derision on the countenances of those in ear-shot. Yet if they had gone a few miles from the read they could have seen my assertion verified. But this erroneous idea stops not with the uninter- ested traveler, whois only anxious to reach the terminus of his journey ; even official documents, issuing from quarters we would have supposed best informed, have sometimes too hastily and in too general terms con- demned this vast area as sterile and desolate. The following extracts from an opinion deliberately penned, even after the extensive surveys of 1853 and 1854, will stand in strong contrast with the evidences of to-day : : The concurring testimony of reliable observers had indicated that the second divis- ion, or that called the sterile region, (the Plains), was so inferior in vegetation and character of soil, and so deficient in moisture, that it had received, and probably de- served, the name of desert. This opinion is confirmed by the results of recent explora- tions, which prove that the soil of the greater part of this region is, from its constituent parts, necessarily sterile ; and that of the remaining part, although well constituted for fertility, is, from the absence of rains at certain seasons, except where capable of irri- gation, as uncultivable and unproductive as the other. This general character of ex- treme sterility likewise belongs to the country embraced in the mountain region. The writer then proceeds to sum up the areas susceptible of cultiva- tion as follows: Near the route of the 47th parallel one thousand square 13 6 194_ GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. miles; along the 41st and 38th parallels only the Great Salt Lake basin, estimated at one thousand one hundred and eight square miles; and that in New Mexico at seven hundred square miles. Experiments made during the fifteen years which have elapsed since the above was written, have shown that about one-third of the entire amount of arable land ‘mentioned can be found in the little triangle be- tween the South Platte and the mountains, in Northern Colorado. Startling as the statement may appear to those who have swept across the continent along the barren-looking track of the Union Pacitie Railroad, I assert it as my firm conviction that there are but few lands in all this portion of the country which are really unproductive; that wherever there is soil, if water can be applied to it, it will be found rich in all the primary elements necessary to the production of useful crops of.some kind. Without water as a matter of course it cannot be made to yield, and the crops produced will vary with the climate; but these facts do not affect the position I take in regard to the primitive fertility of the soil. As I have heretofore stated that the tests of fertility in the rain- moistened regions would not apply here, the question may be asked, Upon what is the assertion based that this soil possesses the elements of pro- ductiveness? Upon numerous experiments, the only means I know by which I could have been convinced of the fact. It is only after a careful examination of a vast number of experiments made in New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, &c., that I am forced to acknowledge what I before did not believe, viz: that wherever there is sotl in these regions, tt is rich in the primary elements of fertility. Emory, in his ‘‘ Reconnoissance in New Mexico and California,” speak- ing of the Moro Valley, says: ‘*The plains were strewed with fragments of brick-dust colored lava, scoriez, and slag; the hills to the lett capped with white granular quartz. The plains are almost destitute of vege- tation ; the hills bear a stunted growth of pinon and red cedar.” And although he adds that rain had recently fallen, and that the grass in the bottom was good, yet it fails to obliterate the picture of barrenness he had drawn. But that which wore such a desolate appearance in 1846 is now one of the richest ~vheat-growing valleys in the whole Territory, its only rival being the Taos V alley . which was once covered with nothing but sage-bushes, (dr temisia,) and was likewise counted as barren and worthiess. Nestling high amid the snow-erowned granite peaks of the Rocky Mountains lies the little valley of the Upper Arkansas, where we would scarcely expect to find an ule spot. Yet experiment proves that even this elevated place, covered with the rough local drift from the barren metamorphic peaks around it, when irrigated, is productive, and yields rich crops of the cereals, potatoes, &c. The fossil-bearing deposits in the Bridger basin, on account of their worn, washed, and barren ap- pearance, have been compared with the Mauvaises Terres of Dakota, and have generally been considered by travelers utterly worthless in an agricultural point of view ; yet the pr oductive farms along Smith’s Fork will suffice to convince the most incredulous of the error of this opin- ion. Necessity for a supply of fresh vegetables to the mining popula- tion around South Pass has brought out the fact that the valleys along the tributaries of Wind River will produce fine and abundant erops of all the hardier vegetables. And alinost on the mountain crest at Fort Sanders the industrious officers and soldiers of the post have demon- strated the fact.that, despite the barren appearance of the soil, the bleak — winds of their elevated position, and the early frosts and snows of their 9 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 195 climate, useful crops can be produced even here; and prolonged exper- iments have shown that even spots so: thickly frosted over with alka- line deposits as to destroy vegetable and animal life can be rendered fertile and made to produce abundant crops. As a final illustration, I would refer to the efforts of the Mormons on the Rio Virgin, along the Arizonian border, where I might truly say, amid basaltic hills and drifting sands the dese rt is being ‘turned into a blooming garden. Perhaps a more desolate-looking region than the vicinity of St. George could scarcely have been selected ; yet the ap- plication of water shows that here, as elsewhere, the soil is rich in the mineral elements necessary to fertility. Another fact with which our investigations must begin is, that as a rule, which has but few exceptions, irrigation is necessary to the culti- vation of the soil. As water is, therefore, the great desideratum in the agricultural development of this country, in the method of its distribution we shall find the true key to the agricultural systems of the West, and its turn- ing sheds the boundaries of the districts. I adopted this as the basis of the plan of my report of last season, and subsequent and more ex- tended observations and investigations have ponvee to confirm me in the position then taken. If I am correct in the foregoing opirions, then a general description of the arable lands of this section implies a description of the portions that can be irrigated. But a description of what may hereafter possi- bly become arable widens the field and introduces the question of an increase of moisture, with which I do not propose dealing at present, but may allude to hereafter. Although there is not one monotonous uniformity throughout this vast extent of country, yet there is nothing like the variety to be found between the Mississippi and Atlantic. To know that a given spot is covered with a sufficient depth of soil, and is susceptible of irrigation, is to know that it will produce the cereals, the common vegetables and fruits, except so far as limited by climate. The change in soil and veg- etation in passing from the eastern to the western slope of the great divide between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific is far less than is generally supposed. During the two years I have been connected with the United States eget) survey of these Territories, having traversed the country north and south, from the banks of the Rio “Grande to the southern tributaries of the Yellowstone; and east and west from the plains east of the Rocky Mountains to the Great Salt Lake basin, I shall give, in as full and comprehensive manner as possibile, in a short preliminary re- port, a description of the various arable districts embraced within the boundary mentioned, omitting what has already been reported upon. Following out the plan already suggested, the different water-sheds, and systems of valleys which lead ‘to the large streams that drain the country, will form the districts to be considered separately. And these are generally so well marked that but little difficulty is experienced in tracing them. The central axis of the Rocky Mountain chain divides this area into two unequal and irregular divisions ; the eastern division being drained by the following rivers: the Rio Grande, the Arkansas, the Platte, and the Big Horn, which form the water systems of the eastern shed — within the ‘territory under consideration. The western division com- prises two very different systems, the one being drained by Green River, whose waters ultimately reach the Pacific through the Gulf of Califor- 196 = GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 4 | nia. The other is the Great Salt Lake basin, whose waters empty into the lakes contained within it, or are lost in the sands of its plains. THE EASTERN DIVISION. As before stated, this division includes all the territory under consid- eration which lies east of the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific. It embraces the areas drained by the Rio Grande, the Ar- kansas, the Platte, (or rather the Plattes.) and the Big Horn Rivers and their tributaries. These areas, although very irregular and unequal, are generally separated from each other “by very distinct boundaries, and can be traced without difficulty. The Rio Grande basin, although belonging to this division, because its waters find their way "to the ‘Atlantic, - is in fact situated in a bifur- cation of the Rocky Mountain range, pointing southward. And as the larger and loftier extension of this “bifureation is the eastern prong, the basin lies west of it. The western rim of this division, which is the divide between the waters of the east and the west, beginning at the southern extremity and going northward, runs about as follows: With the Mimbres Mountains to the plains of San Augusta; thence slightly northwest along the Zuni range to Campbell’s s Pass, where, turning north- east, it passes “along Mesa Fachada to the Sierra de San Juan, which forms the western rim of the San Luis Valley. From the vicinity of Coochetopa Pass, running west of the Upper Arkansas Valley, and west of South Park, it suddenly turns eastward and winds around Mid- die Park, throwing this basin on the west. North of this itagain bends westward areund the North Park, where the character of the range is again changed. Losing its compact form, it breaks up into irresular branches and broken chains, separated by elevated intervening plains, which are traversed by short ridges and mountains. The main divide, which is less elevated here than farther south, bends somewhat abruptly to the northwest, connecting with the Wind River Mountains, near South Pass. The latter range forms the western boundary of the Big Horn basin, the northern district of the division under consideration. The eastern boundary of this division, as fixed by nature, is the line where irrigation becomes necessary as wemove west from the Mississippi. But since this is difficult to determine definitely, I have limited my ex-’ aminations to the boundaries of the three Territories within which the work of the expedition was principally confined during 1869 and 1870. This embraces nearly all of New Mexico, the eastern half of Colorado, and (by including the Powder River country) all of Wyoming, except asmall triangular area in the southwest corner, and amounts in the aggregate to about two hundred and fifty thousand square miles. Of this area perhaps three-tenths, or seventy-five thousand square miles, could not be cuitivated if every other obstacle except its rugged- ness were removed. Of the remaining seven-tenths we may set down five-tenths as at present without a sufficient supply of water for irriga- tion. This leaves two-tenths, or about fifty thousand square miles, which are, or may be rendered arable by irrigation, and which, at a moderate estimate, would support a population of several millions. It is true that this is but an estimate in round numbers, liable to be considerably modi- fied, and which will, by many, be considered as exaggerated, but I make .it after having traversed the entire division from one extremity to the other; and I believe it will prove to be nearer correct than the limited estimates which have heretofore been made in regard to the cultivable lands of these Territories. And I think it quite probable that addi- GEQLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. LOY tional and new methods of obtaining, husbanding, and applying water, as by reservoirs, wells, pumps, elevating machinery, &e., may show tha even this estimate is far below the proper figures. Efforts already made, and canals under way and projected in this division, when completed, will demonstrate the feasibility of bringing under culture a large extent of the lands in these Territories lying east ef the mountains. In order to avoid repetition and confusion I shall follow out the plan adopted in my last report, using the term ‘“ district” to designate the area drained by one of the large streams named, (the Plattes, north and south, being described separately ;) the term ‘“ section” being applied to the larger subdivisions of a district. The terms ‘tillable,” “arable,” “susceptible of cultivation,” not being used as excluding the idea of the future possibility of cultivating other portions, but simply to express the fact that those portions so termed are now sufficiently supplied with water for farming purposes. e THE RIO GRANDE DISTRICT. This district, although chiefly confined within the bounds of New - Mexico, penetrates into the southern portion of Colorado. Beginning at Poncho Pass, about 38° 30/ north latitude, it extends southward to the southern boundary of the Territory, and is about five hundred miles long. As far south as Santa Fé its width is tolerably uniform, averag- ing very near one hundred miles; but here it begins to expand rapidly on the eastern side to embrace the area drained by the Pecos, termin- ating in this direction in the Llano Hstacado. Excluding the ‘‘Staked Plains” from our calculation, the entire area of this district amounts to about seventy thousand square miles, about five thousand five hundred of which belong to Colorado, (according to the old boundary line.) This district may conveniently be divided into three sections, corre- sponding with the natural aspect of the country: First, the San Luis Valley, (sometimes called the San Luis Park,) which constitutes that portion of the district which lies north of the point where the Rio de Taos enters into the Rio Grande; second, the central portion of the Territory, including the Rio Grande Valley proper and the tributary valleys leading into it between the southern rim of the San Luis Valley and the southern boundary of the Territory; third, the Pecos Valley, which, beginning east of the mountains, about opposite Santa Fé, runs a little east of south to the Texas line, and includes only the area drained by the Pecos River. This district embraces nearly two-thirds of New Mexico, leaving a strip along the western boundary varying from fifty to one hundred miles in width, and drained by the tributaries of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, and a triangular area in the northeast corner drained by the Canadian River. It embraces the central, and, with the exception of a few val- leys, the most productive portion of the Territory; and, although much of it is occupied by broken ranges of mountains and elevated mesas, yet there is a large portion which can be irrigated by the streams that traverse it, and a still larger ratio which affords rich pasturage for sheep and cattle. Here also can be found every variety of climate, from the cold of the mountain region along its northern rim, to the tropical valleys of its southern border. SAN LUIS VALLEY. This valley, or park, has been correctly described as ‘an immense 1 198 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. elliptical basin enveloping the sources of the Rio Grande.” Tis entire length, in a direct line from the summit of Poncho Pass to the mouth of the Rio de Taos, is about one hundred and fifty miles, and its great- est width, counting from the crest of the rim, about one hundred miles; but its surface area cannot properly be estimated at more than one hun- dred and forty miles long, by an average width of sixty miles, giving an area of eight thousand four hundred square miles. Of this amount perhaps one-fourth, or about one million three hundred and fifty theu- sand acres, can be irrigated and brought under cultivation by ordinary means, and by damming up and drawing off in canals the waters of the Rio Grande the area of cultivable land may be expanded above these figures. s The mesa plains, mountain foot-hills, and slopes afford nutritious grasses Suitable to the pasturage of sheep and cattle. The average ele- vation of the surface is about seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. The northern part of this section is occupied by an isolated basin of considerable extent, to which the name San Luis Park is sometimes lim- ited; itis also called the ‘‘ Rincon,” and “Sahwatch Basin.” The waters of this basin, instead of entering the Rio Grande, are poured into a reser- voir near the western base of the Sierra Blanca, which has received the name Sahwatch Lake. For along time the very existence of this lake was a matter of doubt, and even at the present day, with settlements beginning around it, its extent is a matter of dispute, the estimates vary- . ing from three to sixty miles. I cannot describe this singular basin and reservoir in any better manner than by quoting the language of the United States geologist, (chief of our expedition,) found in his prelimi- nary report of last year: ‘This northern portion [of the San Luis Valley | above the bow of the Rio Grande is about sixty miles in length, and has an average width of fifteen or twenty miles. About the center (rather in the scutheast part) of this park is a singular depression, about ten miles wide and thirty miles long, which looks like one vast thicket of grease-wood (Sarcobatus vernicularis) and other chenopodiaceous shrubs. Into it flow some twelve or fifteen good-sized streams, and yet there is no outlet, neither is there any large body of water visible. It seems to be one vast Swamp or bog with a few small lakes, one of which is said to be three miles in length. Although disconnected from any other water system, the little streams are full of trout.” The bogey nature of the broad margin, the shallowness of the streams where they enter it, and want of interest on the part of those residing in the vicinity, have probably prevented an examination sufficient to determine, with any degree of accuracy, the extent of the lake or lakes contained therein. During the spring and early part of summer the streams which run into it must carry down a large amount of water, part of which probably sinks into the margin which has dried during the autumn, the rest evaporating into the dry atmosphere. The streams on the east side generally dry up in the latter part of the season, but those on the west and north are constant runners. Commencing at Poncho Pass on the northern extremity of the section and moving southward, we enter the valley of Homan’s (or San Luis) Creek, which expands for a part of its length into what is called Homan’s Park. This is about four or five miles wide at its broadest part, and some seven or eight miles long. The arable portion, which lies chiefly on the west side, although somewhat inclined, can be easily irrigated from the little streams which descend across it to the principal channel. The soil, though mixed with coarse sand, is quite good, and will produce GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. « 199 good crops of wheat, oats, and the hardy vegetables, the climate being too cold tor anything of a tender nature. Some trees of a considerable size, principally cottonwood, grow in the valley, while the mountains around produce an abundance of pine. The soil of the lower level, especially near the north end, is strongly impregnated with alkali. This isa most excellent point for a few stock ranches, as water is abundant, and as not only the valley proper, but also the little openings up into the mountains and slopes on the north and west, atford most excellent grass, and would furnish pasturage for quite a number of cattle. Below this point the valley contracts, but again expands near where it opens into the Sahwatch Basin, affording a small area of arable land. Here also are a number of hot springs which emit a strong vapor, the temperature ranging at about 120° Fahrenheit. Running in from the northwest is Sahwatch Creek, which affords a rich valley some three or four miles wide and some ten or twelve miles long. The bottoms which flank this stream are generally flat, and as they are raised but slightly above the water-level, can be easily irriga- ted, the supply of water being abundant. A settlement has already been made here, and although the seasons are short, yet experiment has ‘proved that wheat, oats, &e., can be profitably raised, the yield being good and the grain fine. I dislike to introduce. personal incidents into a report of this kind, yet as they sometimes serve to give stronger im- pressions than can otherwise be made, I trust I will be excused for in- troducing one here to show how difficult it is to produce a belief in the agricultural capacity of these regions. As we entered this valley from the west, we noticed that the oats, which appeared to be of a very inferior quality, had been cut quite green; this was late in the season, (Septem- ber 30,) and the night was very cold and frosty. I at once concluded that the climate was too cold and the seasons too short to produce the cereals, and even the leader of our expedition, who had been exploring the Rocky Mountain regions for fifteen years, and who long since had gotten over first impressions, was inclined to the same opinion. Yet next morning, when we passed over to the other side of the valley, we were surprised to see some large fields of the finest quality of wheat. Although it was being harvested at this late date, having been sowed late in’ May, the grains were large and plump, and fully ripened. The broad margin that surrounds the boggy basin before described, is sufficiently level for agricultural purposes, “and, as far as the supply o! water will go, can be easily irrigated and brought under cultivation. The lands along the east side, which slope in from the base of the Sierra Blanca, are rather sandy, and in places almost destitute of vegetation, the supply of water on this side not being constant. Yet I think it probable that during the spring and first of. summer, when most needed, and while the snows on the west side of the mountain are melting, there will be a sufficiency of water to irrigate a considerable breadth of land even here. On the west side are the Carnero and Gareta Creeks, pretty little streams which pour down their pure, limpid waters through ditch-like channels but a few feet below the surface of the plain, rendering the ir- rigation of the bordering lands remarkably easy and inexpensive. The soil here is very good, in some places being a dark, rich loam, covered - with a tall and’ rank erow th of grass. The temperature is about the same as in the Sahwatech Valley, | but although more open and perhaps warmer during the day, is more subject to irregular early frosts, a fact 200 . GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. which is often noticed in comparing the climate of open plains with that of adjacent mountain valleys. Should the time come when there will be an urgent demand for land in this vicinity, an encroachment could be made upon the marshy bor- ders of the central basin, which if redeemed would afford several thou- sands of acres of rich soil. On the southwest this basin is bordered by a somewhat elevated, gravelly plateau, varying in width from eight to fifteen miles, which, beginning at the mountains on the west, passes eastward between the Rio Grande and Gareta round the south end of the basin, separating it from the Rio Grande bottoms. In regard to the possibility of irrigating this ridge I will speak hereafter. The Rio Grande, rising in the mountains to the west, flows directly east until it reaches the ‘middle of the valley, where, making an abrupt bend, it runs south through the entire length of the valley, dividing it into nearly equal parts. ‘On the east side, “between the Sahwateh basin and the Rio Costillo, lies a broad, slightly- inclined plain, averaging about twenty miles in width. It is interrupted, in its southwest por- tion, by a mesa of considerable extent, and by occasional foot-hills which shoot out from the mountain on the east. The southern half is undulat- ing, but the northern portion is composed of three levels: first and low- est, the river bottom, some five or six miles wide; the second correspond- ing with the plateau before mentioned, and which occupies the region about Fort Garland, having an area of one hundred and fifty or two hundred square miles; the third, which is the highest, lying south of the second. The bottoms along the Rio Grande are composed of deep rich soil, generally covered with tall grass, or thickets of bushes, with here and there open groves of cottonwood. They can, without much difficulty, be irrigated from the river, but I am of the opinion (and on this account have been thus minute in my description of this locality) that, by commencing a canal where the river emerges from the mount- ains, and bringing it along the plateau and around the bend upon the second level, not only the plateau and a great portion of the second level, but the southern slope of Sahwatch basin and Rio Grande bottoms might all be irrigated from it. It is possible there may be a depression between the Rio Grande and Gareta at the upper portion, which would necessitate the building of an aqueduct, and thus increase the expense, but in regard to this I cannot speak positively. ‘This canal would irri- gate at least five hundred thousand acres, at a moderate cost per acre. From the Trenchera most of the eastern portion of the second level can be irrigated; and it is possible a portion of the higher level might be reached by water from this stream and the Culebra, near their sources in the mountains. An old Mexican claim extends over a considerable portion of this part of the valley. Reaching from the south end of the Sierra Blanea to the Rio Costillo, it embraces the entire valleys of the Trenchera, Culebra, and Costillo, amounting to one million three hundred thousand aeres. The Rio Culebra furnishes one of the prettiest and richest valleys of this section, its chief expanse being along the eastern margin near the mountains, from which numerous little tributaries pour down their cool, clear waters. This expanse, lying between the mountains on the east and the “ cerilios” on the west, has been very appropriately designated the “vegas” or meadows, on account of the luxuriant growth of grass that covers its soil. There is quite a settlement here, chiefly Mexican, and a large portion of the valley at this point is already under cultiva- tion. The county seat of Costillo County, San Luis, (or Culebra,) is lo- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 201 cated here. The second or upper level here, and also that bordering the Costillo Valley, might be irrigated, thus i increasing the breadth of the arable area. Near “the Rio Grande lie a succession of basaltic mesas and ridges, through which the Culebra and Costillo have cut channels for their waters. The Rio Grande affords no bottom along this part of its course, its waters being confined to a deep narrow canon of basalt for sixty-five miles, from La Joya to the crossing of the road to Conejos. The Rio Colorado affords another valley of moderate width, which, like the others, is broadest and most extensive at its upper end, narrowing as it approaches the Rio Grande. Between this and the Taos Valley, though a few spots of limited extent may be found which can be culti- vated, the greater part is elevated and broken, and is covered with a heavy growth of timber. The area west of the Rio Grande is similar in character to that east. It is watered by Pintado Creek, Rio de Jara, and the Conejos River, and contains some as fine land as is to be found in the San Luis Valley. The valleys of the Pintado and de Jara are of but moderate extent, traversing a more uneven country than that farther south. The Conejos River and its tributaries afford a valley which at its central part pre- sents a broad and fertile area, where quite a number of Mexican settle- ments have already been made. The southern portion of this side of the San Luis Valley is principally an elevated basaltic plateau, or mesa, which is covered with grass, and well adapted for grazing purposes, but cannot be brought under'cultivation, as it is beyond the reach of irriga- tion. But there is on this side, as on the east, a large extent of land, principally on the second level, which by proper efforts might be irrigated, thus adding a broad margin to the arable lands of this section. The soil of the lower valleys and bottoms throughout the section is generally composed of a rich sandy loam, containing more or less com- minuted marl. That of the upper levels and ridges has more or less gravel and coarse sand mingled with it. Having an elevation of seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, and being partially surrounded by mountains, whose summits bear upon them snow throughout the year, this basin must necessarily have a tolerably cold climate. Yet the days and the average temperature during the growing season, as shown by the thermometer, would indicate a more favorable climate than the surroundings do; but this is to a cer- tain degree deceptive, as the nights during the warmer half of the year are quite cold as compared with the temperature of the days. And this fact, as will be seen, has an important bearing in estimating the agricul- tural capacity of this section. Frosts generally set in between the 1st and 10th of September, but snow seldom begins to fall on the plain until December, and the amount that falls during the winter is small. There is scarcely any portion of the valley that does not afford good pasturage for cattle and sheep, and when every acre that can be irrigated has been brought under cultivation, the higher ridges, mountain sides, and elevated valleys will still furnish sufficient pasturage for numerous herds and flocks; and if a means of reaching market is ever obtained, few better places for the manufacture of butter and cheese than this can be found. From Mr. Stephen E. Sterrett, who has been acquainted with this valley for eighteen years, and has resided here for the last ten years, I obtained the following information in regard to the crops. The principal products of the soil are wheat, oats, and potatoes, very little corn being raised. Wheat is generally ‘sown between the Ist of April and 10th of May, and harvested from 1st to the 20th of September, 202 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the average yield being thirty bushels, which he considers a low esti- mate, as he has seen fields turn out as much as sixty bushels to the acre. He says the reason why their harvest is so late is because the coid nights in the spring check its growth, and in the latter part of the summer retard its ripeming. Oats grow finely, and yield about forty bushels to the acre. Some corn is raised, principally in the southern end of the valley, yet the seasons are so short, and its growth so much retarded by the cold nights, that it is often injured by autumnal frosts, and even when it matures is of an inferior quality, and the yield light. He finds by experience that in the northern part of the valley it is less Hable to injury if planted near the mountain than on the open plain. Irish potatoes do well, yielding moderate returns of fine-flavored tubers. Turnips and Mexican squashes can be easily raised. Such garden vege- tables as cabbages, beets, carrots, peas, &e., can be grown here without difficulty ; and tomatoes and beans can be raised, but are liable to be injured by the frosts. Very little fruit has hitherto been raised in the valley, but I think if the proper varieties of apples were selected and well managed, a sufficient quantity might be produced to supply the local demand. Currants, raspberries, gooseberries, and strawberries will grow here and produce fruit, but the cultivated varieties wiil have to be planted, for although the mountain sides furnish an abundance of the wild kinds, they appear to fail when transplanted to the Plains. Ample water power for milling and manufacturing purposes can be readily obtained; and a supply of timber can be had by going to the mountains, especially at the northern and southern extremities of the valley, and it is very probable a large amount of the better kind for building purposes might be floated down the Rio Grande, as far as this river has accessible points. The roads within the valley are mostly good; and those which lead out of it at Poncho and Sangre de Christo passes and at the south end can be made good without any great expense. I have been thus minute in my description of this basin because much interest has been manifested concerning it of late years, and yet so lit- tle in regard to its agricultural capacity seems to be known. The reader will notice that I have omitted to speak of the Taos Val- ley in my description of this basin, although in giving the boundaries I included it. I did so because it is wholly distinct in its character from the rest of the basin, and is almost completely isolated. TAOS VALLEY. “The valley in which Taos is situated may be said to be formed by a notch or bend in the mountain range. On the southwest is the Picaris Range, with a strike nearly northeast and southwest. The next range east of this trends about north and south.” It is about eighteen miles in extent from east to west and sixteen from north to south, the narrow valley of the Arroyo Hondo forming its northern extremity. There is also an open area, about eight miles wide, on the west side of the Rio Grande, which may properly be counted as a part of it. The entire area, including the strip west of the river, amounts to about two hun- dred and fifty square miles, or one hundred and sixty thousand acres, a large part of which may ultimately be brought under cultivation. The deep arroyo or vailey at the north end is from one to two miles wide, affording a fertile spot, easily irrigated, where there is a small Mexican settlement and village. The entire valley of the Taos seems to have been one broad field of Sage, (Artemisea,) which, on the parts where it has not been disturbed, GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 203 excludes every other growth, giving a very barren appearance to the landscape. Besides Taos there are several other villages and settlements, chiefly Mexican, in the southeast part of the valley. The amount of land in cultivation is not more than fifteen thousand acres. Unless the cafon through which the Rio Grande emerges into this valley should present some insurmountable difficulty, the greater part of its area may be irri- gated, the northern and western portion from this river, and that part along the mountains from the streams that flow into it. The soil is quite different from that of the valleys further north, being very finely pulverized and loose; it also is of considerable depth and very fertile. The cause of its fertility will be understood from the fol- lowing quotation, made from the preliminary report of the United States Geologist on the “ Geological Survey of Colorado and New Mexico,” 1869, p. 70: The valley proper is scooped out of the Santa Fé marls, which must: at one time have prevailed extensively, as in the country north of Santa Fé, but the surface has been smoothed off, so that nowhere are the marls conspicuous; still they can be seen all along the base of the mountains bordering the valley, where portions of the recent deposits he high on the mountain side. No sedimentary rocks of older date are seen, and the Santa Fé marls rest directly on the metamorphic rocks. The effect of this marl upon the appearance and character of the soil is plainly seen. The consequence is, that that which in its wild state appears as but a barren sage plain, across which the wind sweeps the fine particles of the light soil, piling it in little heaps around the bushes, by the application of water is changed into a fertile field. And I think Colonel Charles McClure justified in his statement to me, that sufficient wheat to supply the Territory might be raised in this valley. It is con- sidered the best wheat-growing region in New Mexico. The climate appears to be milder here than in the San Luis Valley proper, although but narrowly separated from each other, and the differences of latitude and altitude being slight. Having now completed my description of this great mountain basin, it is proper I should refer to the report of Lieutenant BH. G. Beckwith, aS published in Vol. If, Pacific Railroad Reports, whose opinion and description differ somewhat from that I have given. He remarks that “in our ride of over a hundred miles from El Sangre de Christo to this place (Taos) we saw no grass in the valleys worth naming, the vegeta- tion being confined almost exclusively to artemisia and a few varieties of cacti, but chiefly the prickly pear; the pines of the mountains at times extend well down to the plains. In the high small valleys of the mountains the grass is Inxuriant and the flowers beautiful.” There are parts of the open valley which are not well grassed and that have upon them a tolerably thick growth of artemisia, and also some spots grown up with chenopodiaceous shrubs; but as a whole it may properly be called well grassed. In 1869 our party traveled over exactly the same road here spoken of, camping one night in each of the principal valleys, the Rio Colorado, Rio Costillo, and Culebra, having no difficulty in either in obtaining sufficient grass for our stock. It is true that it was not so rank and abundant in the first two as in the last, which, outside of the cultivated fields, was one rich meadow. The bottoms of the Rio Grande and western slope of the Sahwatch basin we found covered with a very heavy growth of grass. In summing up his view of this valley, although he calls it one of the finest in New Mexico, yet he goes on to say: The extensive valley of San Luis, lying between the Sierra Blanca on the east and Sierra San Juan on the west, and watered by the Rio Grande del Norte and its numer- 204 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ous small tributaries, is,in general, one vast sage plain from the Rio Colorado to Gun- nison’s Pass. The grass on the lower tributaries of the Rio del Norte, in this valley, is very limited indeed. It is more abundant on the upper affluents, where a few fields of prairie grass a mile or two in width were observed, and the authority of our guide given for extensive grass prairies on the Rio del Norte itself. But all these grass fields, » with the greatest amount of cultivation which can be supplied with water from the little streams of this valley, can, under the most favorable circumstances, only support a meager population. It is evident from these remarks of Lieutenant Beckwith that he bases his conclusions on his observations and experience in the States where the soil is moistened bysrain, and that he considers the sage ground as unfit for cultivation. But the experiments of the seventeen years which have elapsed since he was there, have taught us that sage land, when irrigated, is about as productive as the grass fields. And the ‘broad sage field that lies west of Fort Garland, (then Fort Massachu- setts,) if redeemed by water, would soon give evidence of this fact. I do not refer to the reports of others in any spirit of criticism, but as far as possible to correct the impression made by these opinions, which, though given in all candor, frequently did injustice to this country. VALLEY OF THE RIO GRANDE. As I have traveled over but a small portion of this section I cannot enter as minutely into details as I have in regard to the one north of it. My description, therefore, will not only be more general, but made up in part from such reliable information as I could obtain. But this defi- ciency is, to a great degree, compensated by the narrative of Dr. As Wislizenus, the reconnoissance of Lieutenant Emory, and the reports of General Pope, Lieutenant Whipple, and others, in which notices of the agriculture and arable lands of different parts of the section are to be found. The length from north to south, counting from the mouth of the Rio de Taos to the Mexican line, is about three hundred and fifty miles, with an average width of one hundred and ten miles. It is difficult to esti- mate, even with approximate accuracy, the amount of arable land in this area, as, with the exception of the comparatively narrow valley proper of the Rio Grande, it lies in small irregular valleys and detached spots. And, in addition to this difficulty, great diversity of opinion exists in regard to the average width of this valley, varying from two to twenty miles. Yet this difference is not wholly due to error in either party, as the term “ valley” is used in different senses, some meaning thereby only the bottoms immediately along the river, while others include the lower terraces which at some points flank the bottoms. Perhaps the best data we have upon which to base an estimate is to be found in the re- port of Lieutenant Whipple, who, after a careful examination, estimates the cultivable area of a belt thirty miles wide, and one hundred and eighty miles long, east and west—reaching from Anton Chico to Camp- bell’s Pass—at-three hundred and sixty square miles, or one-fifteenth of _ the whole area. As this belt reaches directly across the entire width of the section under consideration, it may be taken as an average of the whole; for, although it includes the valley of the San José on the west, the east end stretches over the broad Mesa de la Vista almost from Anton Chico to San Antonio. This proportion would give for the sec- tion nearly two thousand six hundred square miles of tillable land, which I think may be increased by the proper husbanding of water. In order to understand properly the differences in climate and pro- ductions observable in the different parts of this section, it is necessary, not only to take into consideration the latitude, but also the variations GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES! 205 in altitude, and proximity to high mountains. Beginning at the San Luis Valley, with an elevation of 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, we find when we reach Santa Fé the height is still 6,840 feet, which is higher than some of the valleys farther north. Keeping on the same plateau, and moving south, the elevations of the principal points are as follows: Gallisteo Village, 6,165; Los Cerillos, 5,804; Canton Blanco, 6,320, and a little southwest of the canon, near Laguna Blanca, 6,943 feet. Moving southwest from this point toward Albuquerque, we find the elevation at San Antonio is 6,408 feet. But when we descend into the immediate valley of the Rio Grande, as far north as Pena Blanca, it is only 5,288 feet above the sea-level, or 1,552 lower than at Santa Fé. At San Felipe it is 5,220; at Albuquerque, 5,026; at Isleta, 4,910; at Socorro, 4,560; at Alamosa, 4,200; and at Hl Paso about 3,800. Strange as it may appear, when we cross the ridge east of Santa Fé, to the headwaters of the Pecos, we find the altitude at Pecos Village but 6,360 feet—about 500 feet lower than at Santa Fé; while at Anton Chico it is only 5,372 feet, corresponding very nearly with that of the Rio Grande valley at Pena Blanca. I have given these particulars in regard to the elevation of this region to show that, sweeping around the southern terminus of the Rocky Mountain range, is an elevated plateau, or extended mesa, which, reach- ing north along the inside of the basin for some distance, occupies both sides of the river, but southward recedes from it. At Pena Blanca we descend into the Rio Grande Valley proper, which continues along the southern course of the river with little interruption throughout the rest of the Territory. From this point south, fruits and the tenderer vege- tables and plants are grown with ease, which fail no farther north than Santa Fé. But the difference in altitude is not the only influence tending to vary the temperature and vegetation between the northern and southern parts of the section, for about opposite the point where this lower level begins, the mountain range on the east terminates, and, as a matter of course, the depression of temperature and the cold of the nights, so far as caused by the proximity of snowy peaks and icy waters, also cease. From the region of the Galisteo south the features of the country change; instead of the vast and lofty ranges of the Rocky Mountains, a succession of shorter, narrower, and less lofty mountains forming a chain which runs directly north and south a short distance east of the river and almost parallel with it; and what is somewhat remarkable, instead of corresponding with the range east of the San Luis Valley, this chain runs almost directly in a line with the bottom of the valley. While the mountains have thus diminished, on the other hand the minia- ture table lands of the regions farther north are here replaced by vast plateaus which spread over the country forming its general level, out of which are scooped the valleys and basins. On the east side of the Rio Grande, between the Taos Valley and Joya, the country is broken and mountainous, mostly covered with a heavy growth of timber, chiefly pine and fir. This area is traversed east and west by a few small streams, which are bordered by narrow Strips of cultivable lands. The three principal ones are the Penasco, Pueblo, and Chumesal; the first being a vigorous creek which traverses a valley varying in width from one to five miles, which is flanked on each side by high bluffs. A good part of it is already under cultivation, and, as the soil is fertile and the valley sheltered, the crops produced are quite heavy. ‘The other two are small and less important than the Pefiasco. 206 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Between this broken region and the Rio de Canado (or Santa Oruz) on the south, lying along the Rio Grande, is a moderate breadth of arable land, some of which is very fertile, and produces not only the hardier cereals, as wheat, oats, and barley, but also corn, which grows large and fine. The tillable area here could ‘be considerably enlarged by irrigation from the Rio Grande, unless there is some impediment which I failed to observe. The Rio de Santa Fé, Rio Galisteo, and Tuerto Creek afford strips of arable land, varying in width from one to ten miles; but here also I think the amount might be increased by proper efforts and more ex- tensive acequias. I have not visited the valleys of the Rio de Chama and Rio Puerco. The valley of the Rio Puerco, I understand, is flanked by elevated table lands, and that its lower portion is not supplied with living water but a part of the year; but its principal tributary, the San José, runs through a fine wide valley, in which there is a considerable amount of cultivated land and a number of villages, the breadth available for agricultural purposes being equal to the capacity of the stream. The average width of the immediate valley of the Rio Grande, as . before stated, has received widely different estimates; Dr. Wislizenus placing it as high as twenty miles, evidently including the lower terrace which is sometimes present, while Colonel McClure stated to me that he would not estimate it at more than two miles, including only the imme- diate bottoms of the river. Lieutenant Whipple’s calculation would give about eight or nine miles as the average, which is probably nearer correct than either of the others. The folowing memoranda in regard to various points along this valley, though not very definite, may be of some interest to the reader. At San Domingo it is quite narrow and continues so for about six miles below San Felipe, where it again widens to six or seven miles, the soil being quite sandy. At Bernalillo it is of considerable breadth, but erows harrow in the vicinity of Zandia, again expanding and affording a tolerably broad area at Alameda. From Alameda to a point some distance below Isleta, there is a moderate width of good bottom land. Contracting near Peralto, it widens again in the neighborhood of Tomé with improved soil, the belt continuing with very little interruption to the bend of the Rio Grande, below the mouth of the Puerco, where the bordering hills close in upon it, reducing it to about one mile. At Socorro there is a medium belt, which expands southward, presenting a very fine agricultural section, which is interrupted in the vicinity of Fra Cristobal Mountains. Between San Antonio and Dona Ana are some of the finest portions of the whole valley, opposite which on the east side stretch the sandy wastes of the dreaded Jornada del Muerto. Near Mesilla and Dofia Afia are also some fine openings, which are par- tially cultivated. In regard to the few small Heeb valleys below the Rio Puerco, I know nothing. The volume of water sent down by this river is sufficient to irrigate an immense area of land. At Tomé Lieutenant Emory found by meas- urement the entire volume, including two acequias, to be equal to a width of ninety-three feet and depth of two feet, or the area of a transverse section, one hundred and eighty-six square feet. The rate of fall be- tween Petia Blanca and Isleta is nearly six feet to the mile; it may therefore be possible to carry it to some portions of the higher ground, but in regard to this Lam unable to speak positively. Judging from the height of the bluff at San Felipe above the river level, one hundred cee cb ied ‘ a GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. De and ninety-six feet, it is not probable this is practicable except where there are lower intermediate levels. As a general thing the soil along the river is quite sandy, but when well watered proves to be very fertile; and, although seemingly adapted to the growth of wheat, this cereal does not prove as productive here as farther north. Indian corn grows finely, and when the better varieties are introduced and cultivated, large and remunerative crops may be raised. Here is to be found one of the finest grape-growing sections in the Union, its only rivals being the valleys of California. All the usual varieties of fruit can be raised in abundance and with great ease. Mel- ons, pumpkins, frijoles, and in the southern extremity cotton, can be produced. In the greater part of this valley two crops of cereals can be raised in one season. THE PECOS VALLEY. As I have visited only the northern part of this section, and have received information in regard to some detached portions only of its southern half, I can form no reliable estimate of the amount of arable land it contains. Yet I am warranted, by what [have seen and learned, in saying that the proportion is less than in either of the sections here- tofore described. In fact, the valley of this river is one of erosion, worn out of the broad plateau of this region, and presenting, north of thé Guadalupe Mountains, the appearance of one vast arroyo. Its tribu- taries are few, and, with the exception of two or three, of but little im- portance in an agricultur al point of view. The Gallinas River and its little tributaries afford narrow belts of fer- tile soil, the area being equal to the supply of water. Around Las Vegas a considerable breadth is under cultivation, corn being the chief crop. The Pecos, to its junction with the Gallinas, runs through a very narrow valley, which has been correctly described as “ribbon-like,” a few bay- like expansions forming the only exceptions, as at San Miguel. The valley bottom throughout this distance is generally flanked by high bluffs, which sometimes, as in the neighborhood of La Cuesta, reach an altitude of five hundred feet. Lieutenant Whipple, whose line of survey crossed at Anton Chico, estimates the cultivable land in a belt thirty miles wide and reaching directly across this section, from Pajarito Creek to Anton Chico, at one-thirtieth of the area embraced. From an exam- ination in person of a similar belt immediately north of it, 1 am inclined to think this estimate very near correct; it may be a little too low, but not much. In the neighborhood of Fort Sumner, as I was informed by Mr. Maxwell, there is a considerable breadth of fertile land which can be irrigated, ‘and which is well adapted to the growth of fruits and grapes. Along the headwaters of the Rio Bonito there are some fertile spots, where not only fine crops of cereals are raised, but where fruits, grapes, and even sweet potatoes grow well. Very little appears to be known in regard to the valley of the Penasco. From the north end of the Guadalupe Mountains to the mouth of the Delaware River the valley of the Peéos is level and very fertile, averag- ing in width some three or four miles. But from all I can learn in re- gard to this part of the section the tillable area could be extended far beyond the immediate bottoms. For here the plateau, instead of ter- minating in abrupt bluffs, descends gradually, and in a somewhat gen- tle slope to the river bottom. The supply of water in the river being ample, and the fall rapid in this part of its course, irrigating canals could be carried far up the slope, if not to the top of the plateau. The soil on 208 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the upper level possesses all the ingredients necessary to productiveness, except that furnished by water. Supply this and all the table lands of | New Mexico will yield rich returns for the labor bestowed upon them. IT am of the opinion that for a part of its course the Pecos is some- what sluggish, but I may be mistaken in this, as I base it entirely on the following data, viz, that from Anton Chico to the mouth of the Dela- ware the fall amounts to one thousand two hundred and fifty feet, which gives an average of but little more than four feet to the mile, but. as the fall between the north end of the Guadalupe Mountains and the mouth of the Delaware is very rapid, and at the upper portion is also above the average, | infer that for a part of its intermediate distance the fall is but little. WESTERN NEW MEXICO. Although this is net embraced in the Rio Grande district, it is per- haps best to add here what few items IT have obtained in regard to its - agricultural capacity. The Rio San Juan, a tributary of the Colorado of the West, although rising in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado Territory, bends south and traverses the northwest portion of New Mexico, where it receives a number of affluents. Colonel McClure and Governor Arny inform me that these valleys afford a considerable breadth of very rich land, which can be irrigated, and which will produce fine crops of the cereals, veg- etables, and fruits usually grown in the Middle States. As this area appears to be almost, if not entirely, unoccupied, it would present a good point for a colony. The upper tributaries of the Puerco of the West, a branch of Flax River, are flanked by narrow belts of arable lands, but as the water of this river sinks as it descends, it cannot be relied on for irrigating pur- poses. But near the mountains here, as along the headwaters of the. Zuni, crops may be raised without irrigation, as the supply of rain is said to be generally sufficient for this purpose. Even around Zuni, where an ample supply of water can be obtained from the Zuni River, there are no acequias, the inhabitants relying on the rains to supply the necessary moisture. There is probably some peculiarity connected with the local atmospheric currents here which collects the moisture, or causes its Separation and fall. The evidences of a former quite numer- ous population, which have served to render this classic ground, when we consider the fact that they are unaccompanied by the remains of aqueducts, would indicate that formerly the amount of rain was sufficient for agricultural purposes. The Rio Mimbres runs through a beautiful valley of moderate width and fertile soil, where all the productions of the Central States ean be raised, and where even those things which belong to a more southern climate can be grown without difficulty. The Rio Gila, near where it leaves the Territory, has some good bot- tom lands, but farther north, toward the Sierra Santa Rita, is pebbly and inferior. In regard to the valleys along its head-waters I know nothing. = ‘ SOIL, CLIMATE, AND PRODUCTIONS. Leaving the description of the Canadian section until I come to the examination of the Arkansas district, I will close my account of the Rio Grande district with a short summary of the information obtained in reference to the soil, climate, and productions of the Territory. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 209 As a general thing the soil is sandy, and looks poor and sterile, giving an impression of extreme barrenness, which it is difficult to remove until the effect of irrigation and cultivation is seen. But the general state- ment made in the introduction respecting the soil in the Rocky Moun- tain region holds good here, for wherever sufficient water can be applied the soil will prove fertile. The best estimate I can make of the arable area of the Territory is about as follows: in the Rio Grande district, one-twentieth, or about two thousand eight hundred square miles; in the strip along the west- ern border, one- fiftieth, or about six hundred square miles; in the north- eastern trian gle, watered by the Canadian River, one- fifteenth, or about one thousand four hundred square miles. This calculation excludes the “Staked Plains,” and amounts in the aggregate to four thousand eight hundred square miles, or nearly two million nine hundred thousand acres. This, 1am aware, is larger than any previous estimate that I have seen, but when the country is penetrated by one or two railroads, and a more enterprising agricultural population is introduced, the fact will soon be developed that many portions now considered beyond the reach of irrigation will be reclaimed. I do not found this estimate wholly upon the observations made in the small portions I have visited,, but in addition thereto I have carefully examined the various reports. made upon special sections, and have obtained ail the information I could from intelligent persons who have resided in the Territory for a number of years. As the Territory ineludes in its bounds some portions of the Roeky- Mountain range op which snow remains for a great part of the year, and also a semi-tropical region along its southern boundry, there is, of necessity, a wide difference in the extremes of temperature. But with. the exception +f the cold seasons of the higher lands at the north, it is temperate and regular. The summer days in the lower valleys are: Sometimes quite warm, but as the dry atmosphere rapidly absorbs the perspiration of the body, it prevents the debilitating effect experienced . where the air is heavier and more saturated with moisture. The nights are cool and refreshing. The winters, except in the mountainous por- tions at the north, are moderate, but the difference between the north-- ern and southern sections during this season is greater than during the summer. ‘The amount of snow that falls is hight and seldom remains. on the ground longer than a few hours. The rains principally fall dur- ing the months of J uly, August, and September, but the annual amount is ‘small, seldom exceeding a few inches. When there are heavy snows in the mountains during the winter, there will be good crops the follow- ing summer, the supply of water being more abundant, and the quan- tity of sediment earried down greater “than when the Snows are light. Good crops appear to come in cycles, three or four following in succes-. sion, then one or two inferior ones. During the autumn months the wind is disagreeable in some places, especially near the openings between high ridges, ‘and at the termini of or passes through mountain ranges. There is, perhaps, no healthier section of country | to be found in the United States than that embraced in the boundaries of Colorado and New Mexico. In fact, I think I am justified in saying that this area includes the healthiest portion of the Union. Perhapsitis not improper for me to say that I have no personal ends to serve in making this state- ment, not having one dollar invested in either of these Territories in any way whatever. I make it simply because I believe it to. be true. Nor would I wish to be understood as contrasting with other sections of the Rocky Mountain region, only so far as these Territories have the 146 210 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. advantage in temperature. It is.possible Arizona should be induded, but as it have not visited it I cannot speak of it. There is no better place of resort for those suffering with pulmonary complaints than here. Tt is time for the health-seekers of our country to learn and appreciate the fact that within our own bounds are to be found all the elements of health that can possibly be obtained by a tour to the eastern continent, or any other part of the world. And that, in addition to the invigor. ating air, is scenery as wild, grand, and varied as any found amid the Alpine heights of Switzerland. And here too, from Middle Park to Las Vegas, is a succession of mineral and het springs of almost every character. The productions of New Mexico, as might be inferred from the variety of its climate, are varied, but the staples will evidently be cattle, sheep, wool, and wine, for which it seems to be peculiarly adapted. The table- lands and mountain valleys are covered throughout with the nutritious gramma and other grasses, which, on account of the dryness of the soil, cure upon the ground and afford an inexhaustible supply of food for flocks and herds both summer and winter. The ease and comparatively small cost with which they can be kept, the rapidity with which they increase, and exemption from epidemic diseases, added to the fact that winter feeding is not required, must make the raising of stock and wool- growing a prominent business of the country; the only serious draw- back at present being the fear of the hostile Indian tribes. But as these remarks apply equally well to all these districts, I will speak further in regard to this matter when I take up the subject of grazing in this division. The cattle and sheep of this Territory are small, because no care seems to be taken to improve the breed. San Miguel County appears to be the great pasturing ground for sheep, large numbers being driven here from other counties to graze. Don Romaldo Baca estimates that be- tween five hundred thousand and eight hundred thousand are annually pastured here; about two-thirds of which are driven in from other sec- tions. His own flocks number between thirty thousand and forty thousand head; those of his nephew twenty-five thousand to thirty thousand; Mr. Mariano Trisarry, of Bernalillo County, owns about fifty- five thousand; and Mr. Gallegos, of Santa Fé, nearly seventy thousand head. Don Romaldo Baca stated to me that his flocks yielded him an annual average of about one and a haif pounds of washed wool to the sheep ; that the average price of sheep was not more than two dollars per head; that the wool paid all expenses and left the increase, which is from fifty to seventy-five per cent. per annum, as his profit. From these figures some estimate may be formed of what improved sheep would yield. Wheat and oats grow throughout the Territory, but the former does not yield as heavily in the southern as in the northern part. If any method of watering the higher plateau is ever discovered, I think that it will produce heavier crops of wheat than the valley of the Rio Grande. Corn is raised from the Vermijo on the east of the mountains around to the Culebra on the inside; in fact, it is the principal crop of San Miguel County, but the quality and yield is inferior to that which can be produced in the Rio Grande Valley, and along the Rio Bonito. The southern portion of the Rio Pecos Valley and the Canadian bottoms are probably the best portions of the Territory for this cereal. Apples will grow from the Taos Valley south; but peaches cannot be raised to any advantage north of Bernalillo in the central section, but it is likely they would do well along some of the tributaries and main = GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Pai la | valley of the Canadian River. They also appear to grow well and pro- duce fruit without irrigation in the Zui country; and the valley of the Mimbres is also adapted to their culture. Apricots and plums grow wherever apples or peaches can be raised. I neglected to obtain any information in regard to pears, but judging from the similarity of soil and climate here to that of Utah and California, where this fruit grows to perfection, I suppose that in the central and southern portions it would do well. The grape will probably be the chief or at least the most profitable product of the soil. The soil and climate appear to be peculiarly adapted to its growth, and the probability is that as a grape-growing and wine-producing section it will be second only to California. From Colonel McClure I learned that the amount of wine made in 1867 was about forty thousand gallons, and that the crop of 1869 would probably reach one hundred thousand gallons; 1 have not been informed since whether his estimate was verified or not. A good many vineyards were planted in 1869, at least double the number of 1858. Several Americans, anticipating the building of a railroad through that section, have engaged in this branch of agriculture. The wine that is made here is said to be of an excellent quality. Beets here, as in Colorado, grow to an enormous size, and it is quite likely that the sugar beet would not only yield heavy crops, but also con- tain a large per cent. of saccharine matter. Iam rather inclined to believe that soil which is impregnated with alkaline matter will favor the pro- duction of the saccharine principle. I base this opinion wholly on ob- servations made in Utah in regard to its effect on fruit, therefore experi- ments may prove that I am wholly mistaken. It is possible the experi- ‘ment has been tried; if so, I am not aware of it. The Irish potatoes are inferior to those raised farther north. Cab- bages grow large and fine. Onions from the Raton Mountains south have the finest flavor of any I ever tasted, and therefore am not sur- prised that Lieutenant Emory found the dishes at Bernalillo “‘ all dressed with the everlasting onion.” But as to the “ chili” or pepper which is so extensively raised and used in New Mexico, I beg to be excused, un- less I can have my throat lined with something less sensitive than na- ture’s coating. Sweet potatoes have been successfully tried in the vicinity of Fort Sumner and along the head-waters of the Rio Bonito. Melons, pumpkins, frijoles, &c., are raised in profusion in the lower vai- leys; and I understand cotton was formerly grown in limited quantities. As a general thing the mountains afford an abundance of pine for the supply of lumber and fuel to those sufficiently near to them. Some of the valleys have a limited amount of cottonwood growing along them. In addition to pine, spruce and cottonwood, the stunted cedar and mes- quit, which is found over a large area, may be used for fuel. The best timbered portion of the Rio Grande Valley is between Socorro and Doiia Aiia. The east side of the Guadalupe range has an abundant supply of pine of large size. Around the head-waters of the Pecos is some excel- lent timber. Walnut and oak are found in a few spots south, but in limited quantities and of too small a size to be of much value. - THE CANADIAN SECTION. This section, in a strictly systematic arrangement, would be included in the Arkansas district, to which it really belongs; but, for conveni- ence, and that the plan of my report of last year may remain unchanged, I describe it separately. It includes that part of New Mexico lying be- tween the Raton Mountains on the north and the Pecos section, or 212 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ““ Llano Estacado” on the south and southwest, and contains about four- teen thousand square miles. The amount of arable land in this section, as heretofore stated, is estimated at about one thousand four hundred square miles, or nine hundred thousand acres. This estimate is made on very slender data, and therefore cannot be considered as very relia- ble, but I am satisfied that it is not too large, and I think it is approxi- mately correct. . The Canadian River, rising in the Raton Mountains, runs southeast for about one hundred and fifty miles, to Fort Bascom, where it turns east, and passes out of the Territory, a little north of the thirty-fifth parallel—its whole length within the limits of the Territory being about two hundred miles. Most of its tributaries of any importance in an agri- cultural point of view flow in from the west, of which the following are the principal ones: Vermijo, Little Cimarron, Ocate, Rayada, (a branch of the Ocate,) Moro, Rio Conchas, Pajarito Creek, and Tueumeari Creek. As will be seen by a glance at the map of this region, its western part slopes eastward, while the general descent is toward the south. Hence the highest portion of its general surface is found in the northwest angle, where the elevation is probably about five thousand feet above the sea- level, while the southeast corner, which is the lowest, has an elevation of only three thousand feet. The fall of the river, from the mouth of Pajarito Creek east for about two hundred miles, is about nine feet to the mile. The fail above this is unknown, but it is evidently greater. It is therefore evident that the amount of land which can be irrigated is limited only by the supply of water, which is somewhat uncertain. I know but little in regard to the valley of this river, but understand that, as a general thing, it, is not extensive; that at many points the bluffs press closely upon it, leaving but a narrow opening for the river, while at others they recede, leaving broad and fertile bottoms. The bordering plains are generally quite sandy, supporting but a scanty vegetation. The landscape is va- ried by small elevated mesas rising from the comparatively level sur- face, whose sharp outlines form a singular feature of this country. The following description of the western border, across which our expedition passed in 1869, will give a tolerably correct idea of the section: Starting from the crest of the Raton Mountains, immediately above the source of the Canadian River, after passing down through a dense forest of magnificent pines and firs, we enter a beautiful little valley covered over with a thick sward of luxuriant grass. Here a considera- ble amount is annually cut for hay and taken to Trinidad. But this valley soon terminates, and the little stream and road enter a rugged canon bordered by precipitous bluffs of gray sandstone, which continue to the plains at the base of the mountain. Here a grand panoramic view spreads out toward the south; a broad, valley-like plain slopes southward as far as the vision will reach. Secarcely a tree or shrub is to be seen; all is one smooth, grassy carpet, which, on the distant gentle slopes, looks more like pale, pea-green velvet than anything else to which I can compare it. Rising up from the broad base are two or three huge basaltic tables, lifting their perfectly level surfaces one hun- dred and fifty feet or more into the air, and all clothed in the same velvety covering, but which fails to destrey the sharp. outline of circular rim. The little stream, like a silvery thread, is seen winding its tortu- . ous course along the gently descending plain, joined now and then by a slender rill flowing down from the mountain on the west. It is a mag- nificent pasture ground for sheep and cattle, where thousands might be GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 213 erazed and tended with but little trouble. But the stream is too small to irrigate any great extent of the lands through which it passes, and which could easily be reached if the supply of water was sufficient; yet enough can be obtained to supply the wants of a moderate pastoral settlement. The first tributary we reach that will afford means of irrigation is a small stream that flows in from the northwest along the base of the variegated mural boundary that hems in the landscape on the west. I believe it is called Uria. It has some very pretty bottoms, which are quite fertile and can be easily irrigated to the full capacity of the stream, which is but a few feet wide and a few inches deep. The Little Cimarron and Vermijo afford considerable breadth of arable land, the former presenting a valley some twenty-five or thirty miles long, varying in width from one to six miles, which can be easily irri- gated. The latter presents a valley of more uniform width, and bordered, generally, by higher lands. It is about the same length as the former, and where we crossed it about two miles wide, and very rich and fertile, - the ereek supplying sufficient water to irrigate the whole of it. The Rayada runs through a valley somewhat similar to that of the Vermijo, the bottoms being very low and easily irrigated, but I think they are subject to occasional overflows. ‘The creek is sufficient to supply the lower level with water for irrigation, but the second level is rather too high to be reached except by a lengthy canal. The Ocate winds through a narrow valiey of erosion, the high border- ing bluffs descending to it in steep curves, beautifully carpeted over with grass. Not a tree or bush is to be seen; all is as smooth as a meadowy lawn. The part of this valley which I visited is narrow, vary- ing from one-half to a mile or so in width, but it may expand as it approaches the river. The Moro Valley is the finest in this section, and, next to the Taos Valley, the best wheat-growing region in the Territory. The upper or mountain portion of it is some eight or ten miles long and about three miles wide. After passing out of this through a narrow gorge, the ereek enters the more open plains, and is bordered for the greater part of its length by a tolerably broad and very fertile valley. The entire length is, perhaps, some sixty or seventy miles, and the width of the irrigable lands that skirt the creek will probably average four or five miles. As the topography of this portion of the section has been somewhat minutely described by Dr. Hayden, (see Preliminary Report, 1869, pp. 56-61,) it is unnecessary for me to repeat it here. The comparatively low elevation and southeastern exposure of this section, together with the mountain barriers west and north, give to it amore moderate climate than that of the section immediately west. Not only is wheat which is produced here remarkably fine, but maize grows large, with full, fine ears. The fruits, if cultivated, would pro- duce crops almost, if not quite, equal to those of the Rio Grande Valley. And in the southeast part of the section, along the Canadian River, grapes can be grown without any difficulty. The native grape, without having the aid of irrigation, grows here in rich profusion, the stunted vines often being loaded down with the clusters. As heretofore intimated, the western border affords some of the finest grazing fields in the Territory, especially for sheep. THE ARKANSAS DISTRICT. This district includes that part of Colorado Territory situated between 214 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the “Divide,” opposite South Park, and Raton Mountains, and lying east of the dividing ridge of the Rocky Mountains. It not only embraces the plains east of the base of the mountains, but also the Upper Arkansas Valley or park lying within them. It contains about twenty-six thousand square miles, of which about one-fourth, or six thousand square miles, can be irrigated and brought under cultivation. It is being rapidly set- tled up, and will ultimately prove to be the richest agricultural portion of the Territory. The Arkansas River, rising a little northwest of South Park, runs southeast nearly to Poncho Pass, where, turning a little more toward the east, it passes through a canon for about forty miles, emerging upon the open country at Caton City. From this point to the eastern bound- ary of the Territory it runs almost directly east. ‘The mountain valley has an elevation of between seven and eight thousand feet above the sea, while that of the plain country lying east of the range varies from six thousand near the base of the mountains to about three thousand five hundred feet at the eastern boundary of the Territory. This somewhat rapid descent of the plains eastward is a very important item in estimating the agricultural capacity of this country; for it was for some time a serious question in my mind whether the descent on the broad open plains was sufficient, after leaving the moun- tains for some distance, to carry the water of these rivers over the sandy soil; but from a list of elevations along the Kansas Pacific Railroad, kindly furnished Dr. Hayden by General Anderson, superintendent of that road, I learn the following important facts: That from Denver to Fort Hays, a distance of three hundred and forty-seven miles, the fall is three thousand two hundred and seven feet, or a little over nine feet to the mile, showing it possible to pour the waters of the South Platte into the channel of Smoky Hill River. From Cheyenne Wells, near the source of the Smoky Hill River, to the same place, a distance of one hundred and seventy-three miles, the fall is one thousand two hundred and eighty-three feet, or over seven feet to the mile, which is sufficient to carry the water upon levels sixty, or even one hundred, feet above the stream, where the supply is sufficient. The Arkasas River, from the mouth of the Apishpa to the mouth of the Pawnee, a distance of two hundred and six miles, has the remarkable fall of two thousand four hundred and eight feet, or more than eleven feet to the mile. This is sufficient to reach the highest extensive levels, so that, east of Pue- blo, the extent of the irrigable land is limited only by the supply of water, which confirms an opinion expressed by Mr. Byers in a commu- nication to me concerning this valley. The head-waters of the Arkansas are in an oval park situated directly west of the South Park. The altitude of this basin is probably between eight and nine thousand feet above the level of the sea; the length is about fifty miles from north to south and twenty or thirty miles in width at the middle or widest point. At the lower or southern end, an attempt has been made to cultivate the soil, which bids fair to prove a suceess. Around the Twin Lakes, at the extreme point, oats, wheat, barley, pota- toes, and turnips have been raised, yielding very fair crops. Below this basin the river, for twenty miles, passes through a narrow canon, along which, with considerable difficulty, a road has been made. Hmerging from this, it enters the ““Upper Arkansas Valley” proper, which is a widening of the bottom lands from two to six or eight miles. This valley is some forty or fifty miles in length and very fertile. Near the southern extremity are some large boulder deposits, evidently forméd during its lake period, ere the southeast barrier had broken away before the accu- ‘ GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 215 mulated waters. The chief portion of the arable land lies on the west side of the stream, which generally hugs closely the base of the eastern range. er eral streams of moderate size flow down from the Sahwateh range on the west and cross the main vajJley. The largest of these is the South Arkansas, up which an arm of the park or valley extends for several miles. The average elevation is about seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. There is already a considerable population there, two or three small villages, a flouring mill, and at least one hundred farms. Although somewhat elevated, this region is well protected from the winds by the lofty mountain wall that hems it on every side, and stock can be kept on the grazing fields most of the winter, shelter and feeding being but seldom required, and that but for a short time. Passing through here in October, 1869, we found it clear of snow and the weather pleasant. We also procured here some of the finest potatoes I saw while in the Territory. The extent of irrigable land may be estimated, in the entire basin, at three hundred square miles. Below this the mountains and hills again crowd down to the river, leaving only a few small openings suitable for settlement. But, as is generally the case with these little mountain valleys in this portion of the country, they are very fertile. Tt is probably forty or fifty miles from the lower end of this valley to Cafion City, where the river leaves the mountains. Irom this point to Pueblo, which is situated at the mouth of the “ Fountaine Qui Bouille,” the distance is forty miles. The valley of the river during this part of its course is very uneven and broken. At one point the bottom will spread out for five or six miles in width; then again it is shut in by rolling hills or elevated plateaus. Mr. Byers estimates the irrigable lands in this part of the valley at two hundred square miles. But I am inclined to think these elevated plateaus are not beyond the reach of irrigation from the river. Take, for instance, the one immediately south of Canon City, which, according to my present recollection, is about one hundred and twenty-five or one hundred and fifty feet above the water level, with the fall the river has in this part of its course, which cannot be less than fifteen feet to the mile, I see no reason why the water could not be carried upon it. But it is possible Mr. Byers includes these in his estimate, which certainly is not extravagant. From Pueblo eastward the valley is wide, with easy slopes right and left to the elevated plains, much like the valley and bordering lands of the South Platte. Therefore we may safely assume that, with a fall of eleven feet to the mile, which the river has in this part of its course, the extent of land which may be irrigated is only limited by the supply of water. Starting from Pueblo with a width of two or three miles, there is nothing to prevent widening the belt to thirty or forty miles, thus giving between Canon City and the eastern boundary of the Territory at least four thousand square miles, or two millions and a half acres of irrigable land. The fact that a large quantity of the water of a stream like this sinks out on the plains, should not be set down as conclusive evidence that the bordering lands cannot be irrigated from it; for, in the first place, they generally have much more water in them during the season of the year when irrigation is necessary than in the latter part of the summer - and fall, when not required. And in the second place, all the water that comes down from the mountains may be retained on the surface by tapping the streams above the point where it sinks. Suppose all the water which flows down from the mountains in the Arkansas and its 206 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. numerous tributaries was gathered into canals and equally distributed over the broad plains of this part of the Territory, who will dare say that four thousand square miles, yea almost twice four thousand, might not be irrigated? Then the simple point to be determined is, can this be done? I believe it can, and that when the demand for land in this dis- trict requires it, it will be done; the great obstacle here, as elsewhere in these Territories, being to bring together that amount of capital or force sufficient to construct these canals at areasonable cost per acre. The principal tributaries of the Arkansas that flow in from the south, east of the mountains, are Hardscrabble and Greenhorn Creeks, (the St. Charles is a branch of the latter,) Huerfano River, which has a large tributary named Cuchara; Apishpa River, Timpas Creek, and Purgatory River. On the north side, Fountain Qui Bouille River and Squirrel Creek are the ‘principal streams affording water. Hardserabble is a small stream running through a broken section, and is skirted by narrow bottoms from a half to two miles in width, which are low, easily irrigated, and quite fertile. The St. Charles is a larger stream, which traverses some arable lands, but is occasionally hemmed in by bluffs. As I crossed it only at a deep, narrow cut, [ am unable to speak positively in regard to the extent of its valley, but I understand considerable bodies of irrigable land are to be found along its course, and that near its source is a valley of moderate size called Wet Moun- tain Valley, which affords some good farming land. The Greenhorn Valley also furnishes level land and irrigating facilities sufficient for considerable agricultural settlements. The length of this valley is prob- ably thirty miles, but what its average widthis I do not know. Along the Huerfano and its chief tributary are some of the best farming lands in the district. Huerfano Park, or, as it is sometimes called, the Upper Hnuerfano Valley, which lies west of or behind the Wet Mountains, is about fifteen miles long and from three to five miles wide, and is aiready tolerably well settled. The valleys of these two streams are of moderate width, but are occasionally interrupted for some distance by the upper level, which presses close upon the streams, leaving only deep cuts or cations. But as the fall is rapid, the water could, without much diffi- culty, be brought upon the upper surface, thus largely increasing the amount of tillable lands. Where we crossed the Cuchara, the bottom was about one mile wide, but the second level, which is extensive, was | not more than fifty feet above the stream, and, as I learn, is generally less than this height. in regard to the valley of the Purgatory I know but little, as I did not have an opportunity of visiting it. Its upper portion, I believe, is narrow, and occasionally the bluffs close in upon the stream for several miles; but the lower moiety is broader, affording room for extensive settlements. There is, I believe, as a general thing, an ample supply of water for irrigating purposes, but during the latter part of the season the flow becomes somewhat scanty. Monument Creek, from its source to where it enters the Fountaine Qui Bouiile, is about twenty-four miles long, and affords water sufficient to irrigate an average of only half a mile on each side. For a part of its course it runs through forests of pine, where the growth is tall and fine and well suited for lumbering purposes. The Fountain Qui Bouille, which rises in the mountains northwest of Colerado City, has a run of about fifty miles, the immediate valley averaging about two miles. The plains which flank it are generally of but moderate height and slope down gently, and can be irrigated, with but little difficulty, to the full extent of the water in the stream. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. rt This entire district affords broad and extensive grazing fields for cattle and sheep, and quite a number of herders and stock-raisers are begin- ning already to spread out their flocks and herds over these broad areas of rich and nutritious grasses. One of the finest meadows, of moderate extent, that I saw in the Territory, was on the divide near the head of Monument Creek, and near by was a large pond of cool, clear water. The temperature of this section is somewhat similar to that of Northern Missouri, and all the products grown there can be raised here, some with a heavier yield and of a finer quality, as wheat, oats, &c., while others, as corn, yield less and are inferior in quality. An experiment made by Mr. John T. Smith, a short distance south of Cafion City, proves conclusively that such fruits as apples, peaches, pears, and cherries will grow here without difficulty, and produce abundant crops of excellent quality. I saw here peach trees in fruit the fourth year from the seed. : SOUTH PLATTE DISTRICT. As my report of 1869 covered this district, £ will only add such addi- tional facts in regard to its agricultural prospects and development as I gathered the present year. The impetus given to the settlement and cultivation of this district by the completion of the Kansas Pacific and Denver Pacific Railroads is already manifest. At the mouth of the Caché a la Poudre, where last year only a ranch or two were to be seen, is now a fine village. Farms are marked off in the valley and on the plains, and extensive preparations made to test on a broad seale, next season, the productive powers of this soil. A canal some fourteen or fifteen miles long has been commenced and will shortly be completed. This will bring water from the Cache a la Poudre and afford means of irrigating some fifty or sixty thousand acres of the plains that lie north of the Platte. And, if I am not wholly mistaken, that which has by some been ridiculed as a barren cactus plain will produce crops of cereals that will rival the heaviest yield of the richest lands of the States. I may be mistaken, but will cling to the opinion, until contradicted by fair experiments, that the uplands or ridges of this section, when prop- erly irrigated and cultivated, will produce better wheat than the creek bottoms. The Kansas Pacific Railroad Company contemplate running a canal from the mouth of Platte Cafion to some point near the head-waters of the Republican Fork, a distance of one hundred and forty or one hun- dred and fifty miles. The rise between Bijou and Denver Junction may present some difficulty, but this can doubtless be overcome by bending round to the north, where the elevation is less. And the fall between the mouth of the cafion and Denver, which is probably two hundred feet or more, may considerably lessen the flexure. If this great work is completed we may see ere long the irrigated lands brought close to the rain-moistened region; a belt of farms stretching from the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains. Such a consummation is certainly de- sirable. The “Great American Desert” belted with fields of golden grain and pleasant homes would be a result not anticipated ten years ago, and the very mention of which is ridiculed by many now, but which those who carefully study the country do not concede as impossible. NORTH PLATTE DISTRICT. The boundaries of this district are more difficult to describe than those of either of the other districts of the eastern division. Not be- 218 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. cause they are any less definite, but because the water-sheds at some points are not prominent, and have received no well-known and fixed names. The following lines will designate the area embraced in the dis- trict with sufficient accuracy for present purposes: Commencing at Long’s Peak, it runs west, and then north, leaving the North Park to the right; from thence northwest, by way of Bridger’s Pass and Creston Station, it crosses over the plains to South Pass. From this point it runs northeast between Little Popoagie and Sweet- water, and passes round the Rattlesnake Hills between Bad-Water and Poison Spring Creeks. From here, turning east, it passes along an irregular range of hills to the southern extremity of the Big Horn Moun- tains; then, turning southeast, passes between the waters of the Chey- enne and North Platte Rivers to the eastern boundary of the Territory. Following the boundary line of the Territory southward, we may prop- erly include Lodge Pole Valley, as its upper portion appears to belong more to the North Platte slope than that of the South Platte. These boundaries embrace an area of about twenty-five thousand square miles, and, exclusive of North Park, nearly one-fourth of Wyo- ming Territory. With the exception of a few small sections, they in- clude the most desirable portions of the Territory, and the greater part of the arable lands. This district is not only very irregular in its outline, but bears the same varied and irregular character interiorly. The mighty convul- sive force which heaved up these vast Rocky Mountain ranges seems to have obtained slight breathing places for its imprisoned energies at the parks of Colorado, while here, with one terrific throe, it has scattered the mountains and hills in wild confusion as a giant would scatter pebbles. In the eastern portion, stretching north and south, is a range of rough and lofty mountains, which, at its northern extremity, is rent into fragments and scattered in decreasing peaks and ridges to the northwest. Along the southern border, turning in nearly every direc- tion of the compass, are lofty ranges whose summits wear crowns of perennial snow. Westward the mountain ranges trending northwest sink beneath the immense deposit of local drift, which here covers the mighty chasm, but they show themselves further north in the granite peaks, which, like islands, shoot up from the Sweetwater Plains, and further on emerge in the Wind River range. Between these irregular surroundings lie the broad Laramie Plains, which might appropriately be called the Great Park of Wyoming. Entirely east of the Black Hills we enter upon the plains which slope toward the Missouri River. The area west of the Black Hills, as shown by the course of the streams, and also by the barometer, slopes north and east, pouring its waters through the northeast angle of the district. The average level of the entire district is higher than that of either of the others of this division, the western portion being on an average about six thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The difference of level be- tween the North Park and the mouth of the Sweetwater is about two thousand feet; and between South Pass and the mouth of the Sweet- water about one thousand five hundred feet. The area east of the moun- tains varies from four thousand four hundred to six thousand feet above the sea level. On account of its altitude, and the direction and force of its atmo- spheric currents, the temperature of this district is lower than that of the other districts east of the divide, within the bounds under consideration. And as a general thing only those products adapted to a cold climate and short seasons can be raised to any advantage. Yet it is exceed- GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ey 3 (5) ingly important to know, not only that a mining section can produce the principal cereals, as wheat, oats, and barley, and the more useful vegetables sufficient to supply its own wants, but also to know something in regard to the locality and extent of its arable Jands. A few acres of productive soil in the vicinity of a rich mine will often yield a greater profit to the cultivator than a large farm in Ohio or Illinois. It is difficult to give any very reliable estimate of the land susceptible of cultivation in the bounds of this district, as much of it is in small bodies of irregular shape; yet I think that by proper efforts at least three thousand square miles, or about two million acres, can be brought under cultivation. This may be thought an exaggerated estimate, when we take into consideration the large proportion of the area occupied by mountains, the barren tract south of the Sweetwater, and the deficiency in the supply of water on the plains east of the Black Hills. But when more effectual means of husbanding the water are adopted, as by tap- ping the streams nearer their exit from the mountains, and keeping it above the surface, by forming reservoirs, &c., the supply will be found greater than at present supposed, and the estimate given, instead of be- ing too large, will most likely prove to be too small. The cold climate, it is true, is a serious obstacle, yet there are but few arable spots in the district that cannot be made to produce useful crops of some kind. The district is naturally divided into four sections, as follows: The North Park, the Laramie Plains, the Sweetwater region, and the plains lying east of the Black Hills, forming, as it were, a winding series of vast steps from the mountain height to the broad plains below. NORTH PARK. This elevated mountain basin, in which the North Platte takes its rise, lies entirely within the bounds of Colorado Territory. It is about fifty miles long from east to west, and thirty miles wide from north to south, containing a surface area of some eight or nine hundred square miles. The elevation varies from seven thousand five hundred feet to nine thousand feet above the level of the sea, the average being about eight thousand feet. The following description of this mountain cove, from a former report made by Dr. Hayden, will convey a better idea of it in a few words than anv description of my own. And, although several years have passed since it was made, and glowing descriptions have since been published, there seems to be nothing new added: The North Park is oval or nearly quadrangular in shape. Viewing it from one of the high mountains on its border, it appears like a vast depression which might once have formed the bed of a lake. Its surface is rather rugged, yet there are broad bottoms along the streams, especially the North Platte and its branches. Secarcely a tree is to be seen over the whole extent, while the mountains which wallit in on every side are dotted with a dense growth of pine. The grass grows in the park quite abundantly, often yielding at least two tons to the acre. Streams of the purest water flow through the park, and there are some of the finest springs I have seen, a few of them forming good- sized streams where they issue from the ground. I am quite confident that this entire park would make an excellent grazing region for at least six or eight months of the year. The soil is very rich, but the seasons must be too brief for the successftl culti- vation of any crops. Indeed, there is frost there nearly every night, and snow falls every month in the year. On the north and east sides may be seen the snow-covered ranges rising far above all the rest, their summits touching the clouds. On the west side there is also a short snowy range. On the west side long ridges come into the park and die out in the plain, forming a sort of en echelon arrangement. The soil is mixed with gravel and coarse sand on the ridges and upper levels, but along the bottoms that flank the streams is rich and dark. On the north side there is a quite sandy area. If future experiments 220 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. should prove that it is possible to raise valuable crops here, there will be no difficulty in bringing the land under cultivation so far as the supply of water is concerned, for this is ample, and the fall sufficient to irrigate all the lands which can be cultivated. It may be thought visionary te speak of agriculture in this elevated, snow-bound cove, and the remarks quoted imply that Dr. Hayden, with all his experience in this region, looks upon it as impossible. But it is not best to conclude too hastily, for if a number of rich mines should be discovered here and worked for a few years, the demand for fresh vegetables might bring about, in prac- tice, that which is considered impossible in theory. At least the scope of my plan requires me to give an account of the arable areas, and the facts in regard to the seasons, so far as known, leaving the battle with climate to be determined by experiments. And it is possible that a record of the seasons may show that it is really no colder here than in South Park, which has a greater elevation than this park, and is also partially surrounded by snow-covered moun- tains; but, as remarked in the introduction, latitude and elevation do not always determine the climate in the Rocky Mountain regions. Be this as it may, there is here a fine grazing field for cattle and sheep, but these would require some feeding and occasional sheltering during the winter months. Nature has provided amply the means to meet every necessity in this direction; from the grassy valleys, at a nominal cost, all the hay necessary could be cut; the mountain sides are bristling with sturdy pines, and the rapid streams as they rush down from their foun- tains afford all the power necessary to drive mills to saw the lumber. Of course, places requiring this trouble and expense will not be selected while others equally good, which do not require it, can be easily found. The North Platte, from its point of exit from the park to where it reaches the border of Laramie Plains, passes through a rugged, moun- tainous region. Along the upper portion of its course its valley is very narrow, sometimes amounting to nothing but a gorge. But as it de- scends toward the northwest it is joined by several small tributaries, and its valley widens, affording occasionally bottoms of moderate breadth, especially near the entrance of Sage Creek, where there is a considera- ble stretch of fine wooded bottoms. LARAMIE PLAINS. This section is bounded on the east and northeast by the Black Hills, on the west by the West Rattlesnake Hills, and on the southwest by Medicine Bow Mountains. It is somewhat quadrangular in shape, its average length from southeast tonorthwest being about ninety miles, and average width from northeast to southwest about seventy-five miles, containing (exclusive of the surrounding mountains) a surface area of about six thousand seven hundred and fifty square miles, or nearly four million five hundred thousand acres. It is drained chiefly by the Medicine Bow and Laramie Rivers and their tributaries, both affluents of the North Platte, which also traverses the extreme western border. ’ The Laramie, rising in the mountains at the southwest angle, flows along the eastern border to the northeast angle of the section, where it breaks through the Black Hills and joins the North Platte in the plains beyond. The Medicine Bow, receiving affluents from each side, but principally from the south, flows through the western part of the section and joins the North Platte on the western border; which latter stream makes its exit at the northwest angle. The surface varies considerably in character and elevation, some of it GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 2m presenting beautiful meadowy expanses, while other portions are rolling and hilly and but sparsely covered with vegetation. The average eleva- tion, as before stated, is about six thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea; but, as will be seen below, different parts vary in height as much as one thousand seven hundred feet, counting from the water levels. As most of the streams in this section afford an ample supply of water during the season when it is most needed for irrigation, their fall becomes an important item in making up an estimate of the cultivable lands. I therefore give the levels of the principal points of the three larger. The North Platte at the railroad crossing has an elevation of six thousand four hundred and seventy-seven feet, and at the mouth of the Sweetwater nearly six thousand feet above the level of the sea, showing a fall in this distance of about four hundred and eighty feet, or seven feet to the mile. Medicine Bow River at Medicine Bow Station has an elevation of six thousand six hundred and ninety-eight feet, and at its junction with the Platte about six thousand three hundred feet, a differ- ence of nearly four hundred feet, or about eight feet to the mile. Laramie River at Laramie City is seven thousand one hundred and twenty-three feet above the level of the sea, and at. the point where it enters the Black Hillis about five thousand four hundred feet, a difference of over one thousand seven hundred feet, giving the very rapid fall of eighteen or twenty feet to the mile.* These figures develop the important fact that not only the bottoms, but also the upper levels, except where they are very high, can be irri- gated. This must increase our estimate of the cultivable lands of the section to an amount considerably beyond the area of the immediate bottoms. The southeast part, to which the name “ Laramie Plains” is some- times limited, is decidedly the best portion of the section, and contains much the largest proportion of arable land. Counting from the head of the Laramie Valley to Rock Creek it is about seventy miles long, with an average width of about twenty-five miles, giving an area of seven- teen hundred and fifty square miles. Although the west end of this area contains the dividing ridge between the Medicine Bow and the Laramie, yet I think we may safely estimate that one-half of it can be irrigated and brought under cultivation. The greater portion of this beautifal valley is covered with a rich growth of grass, and presents the appearance of one broad meadow, over which the numerous herds of cattle which are being gathered here to graze can be seen roaming. The western part of this sub-section beyond Cooper’s Lake presents a bar- ren appearance until we reach the vicinity of Rock Creek. The ereek, although bordered by occasional bluffs, during most of its course is mar- gined by fertile bottoms of moderate width, and tolerably well timbered along its upper portion. Some of the southern tributaries of Medicine — Bow pass through fertile valleys, which can be easily irrigated and brought under cultivation. The main stream passes for some distance between rocky bluffs, with small bottoms on the alternate sides, but is generally flanked by a moderately wide valley, with here and there groves of cottonwood. I have not visited the valley of this stream or that of the North Platte, north of the railroad, but from the informa- tion obtained in regard to them, believe that by proper efforts they would afford a considerable extent of tillable land. Ihave seen only a * The elevations along the railroad are taken from the survey of that road. The others are estimates made up from the barometric record kept by Mr. Beman during the geological survey of the present season (1870,) and which he very kindly copied and furnished me while in the field. 222 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. part of the northern extension of the Laramie Valley, but judging from that, and its rapid fall and the general features of the surrounding coun- try, L am satisfied that not only the bottoms, but that a large amount on the lower ridges and plateaus may be irrigated and cultivated. But I am inelined to think that along a part of its northern course the bor- dering regions are quite broken, and that the belt of arable land there issmall. The northwest angle of the section is also probably quite broken and uneven, affording very little arable land. The climate, as might be inferred from the elevation and surroundings of this basin, is somewhat severe, and the seasons short. But the great- est drawback does not appear to be from these causes taken generally, but from the occasional untimely frosts and gusts of snow which nip the growing crops in the spring, or injure them later in the season when nearly matured. The cold nights, as is generally the case in these high regions, retard the growth especially of the cereals. Yet, notwithstand- ing these drawbacks, the repeated experiments made during the past four years have shown conclusively that useful crops can be raised here. I visited Laramie City August 3, for the purpose of examining the garden of Dr. Latham, who has charge of a military hespital at this place, and who is experimenting with various vegetables and cereals in order to ascertain what can be raised here. I found this garden to be quite extensive and in a flourishing condition. Here I saw a small piece of barley, full-headed, well stooled, and of medium height; also a similar piece of wheat, which, though sowed late, presented a very fine appearance. The potatoes and turnips were remarkably fine. Peas grow very large and thrifty, as I can testify from the excellent ones I ate at the doctor’s table, and which I saw gathered from the vines in his garden. His beets were making a vigorous growth, as were also the fol- lowing vegetables: winter squashes, cabbages, beans, lettuce, onions, carrots, radishes, &ec. I pulled some turnips in another field, which were at least six inches in diameter, the seed from which they grew having been sown the 15th day of May. The tops were remarkably large and succulent. I did not have time to visit the garden under charge of the officers stationed at Fort Sanders, but I understood it was in a flourishing condition. These experiments, as I learn from a former report made by Dr. Hayden, were commenced about 1866 by General Gibbon, and have, with commendable zeal, been continued by the offi- cers in command of the post. Oats appear to grow and mature wherever tried in the valley. These experiments, and others made along Laramie River, Rock Creek, and at other points, continued as they have been for several years, certainly settle the question as to the practicability of farming in the Laramie Plains. The points where they have been made are the highest on the Plains, and, I am rather inclined to believe, the coldest portion. : Although this section may not be an agricultural region in the broader sense of the term, yet its situation renders it a matter of deep “interest to know that the hardier vegetables, and such cereals as wheat, oats, and barley, can be raised here; for, placed in the center of the mountains, on the great thoroughfare between the Atlantic to the Pacific, with a broad barren plain to the west, and a mountain stretch to the east, it is very desirable to have here a halting place. The business of the road necessary at the termini of divisions, stock- raising, temporary grazing of passing herds, lumbering, and probably coal-mining, will bring here a considerable population. There is perhaps no finer grazing section in Wyoming than this. The GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 223 southeastern part is literally carpeted over with a compact growth of rich and nutritious grasses, which the water of the numerous little streams that sweep down from the mountains keeps constantly fresh. And the rain-fall, I judge, is greater here than in any other part of the Territory, and it seems to be on the increase, which also appears to be truearound Cheyenne. Iunderstand that stock can be wintered here with- out shelter and with very little feeding; in fact, large flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, as will hereafter be shown, have passed the winter with no other feed than the uncut grass of the valleys and plains. Hay in abundance can be obtained along the creek bottoms at a nominal cost. Dr. Latham informed me that his hay cost him this season, in the stack where it was cut, but $3 per ton. Timber, such as pine and fir, of an excellent quality, can be obtained from the mountains along the southern border. A vast quantity is an- nually cut and floated down the Little Laramie and other streams for lumber, railroad ties, &c. Some of the streams, especially along the southwest border, are margined by groves of cottonwood, which will furnish fuel and fencing material for that locality. THE SWEETWATER REGION. I cannot define this section better than by saying that it includes the valley and bordering plains through which the Sweetwater River passes, from the vicinity of South Pass to its junction with the North Platte. This stream rises a little northwest of the pass, and flows almost directly east about one hundred and thirty miles, connecting with the North Platte near the exit of the latter from the Laramie Plains. For about twenty-five or thirty miles east of the pass, it flows through a rugged, mountainous region, falling rapidly, and presenting no areas of import- anee that can be brought under cultivation. A short distance west of St. Mary’s Station it bursts from its mountain canons, and enters upon a valley that continues, with some short interruptions, throughout its course. The comparative uniformity of this valley will obviate the necessity of any lengthy description of the different sections of it. * Beginning at South Pass, (on the summit,) with an elevation of seven thousand four hundred and ninety feet, when we reach the point where the river emerges from the gorge, we are still six thousand six hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, having descended but eight hundred and forty feet. Yet, at this highest point of the section which can be counted as arable, we are five hundred and thirteen feet lower than Fort Sanders, and four hundred and seventy-three feet below Lara- mie City. At the Three Crossings the height is only six thousand one hundred and thirty-five feet, showing a fall between this point and the head of the valley of five hundred and fifteen feet, or about twelve feet to the mile. At Independence Rock the elevation has decreased to just six thousand feet, giving a fall between this and the last-mentioned point of scarcely five feet to the mile. From here to the point where the river joins the Platte the fall is, probably, some five or six feet to the mile, as it grows a little more rapid as it approaches its debouchure. We may, therefore, estimate the average elevation of the valley at six thousand three hundred feet above the sea level. For ten or twelve miles below the point where the stream emerges from the mountains there is a very pretty fertile valley, averaging about one mile wide, bordered on the right, and part of its length on the left, with high bluffs. Most of it is “covered over with a luxuriant growth. of grass, from which a supply is drawn for South Pass City, 224 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Atlantie City, &c. Near the lower end of this opening the left bank ig flanked by a second level or table, which might be reached by an irri- gating ditch, a few miles long, and would give an additional amount of farming land equal to the entire bottom. Below this the hills again close in upon the valley for a few miles, and then separate, leaving a very pretty triangular area, containing some forty or fifty square miles ‘of quite level and fertile land, which can easily be irrigated. Toward the north and northwest the hills slope down so gradually that a con- siderable area along their lower margins could be reached with water if the river would supply a sufficient amount for this and the bottoms. The stream here is about thirty feet wide and one foot deep, and the fall some ten or twelve feet to the mile. Here, as also in the vicinity of what is known as St. Mary’s Station, small colonies would find very good locations; and by combining and digging large primary ditches the land could be irrigated at a moderate expense. The only difficulty, except the exposure to Indian depredations, would be the obtaining of a supply of timber, which at the last point is scarce. Near St. Mary’s no difficulty in this respect would be experienced. From this point the river bends around to the northeast, passing among the hills, and is flanked by alternate bottoms, of small extent. To the south of the river, forming a chord to its circular bend, runs a singular valley, which is some ten or twelve miles wide; and although its surface looks exactly like the plateaus of this section, yet its general appearance is that of the bed of a stream that was very broad and shal- low. If the water of the river can be brought upon.this level, as much land can be irrigated as the water of the river can supply. But asf had no opportunity of ascertaining the height of this plain or valley above the river level, I cannot say positively that the water can be brought upon it. Where the road again strikes the river, going east, there is a consid- erable expanse of arable land; and, although there is very little imme- diate bottom, the second level is quite broad and of moderate elevation, which might be irrigated by cutting a ditch a few miles in length. Below this, as we come near the “Three Crossings,” the granite hills set in and continue to flank the valley as far as Independence Rock. Near the west end of this irregular range, for some seven or eight miles, the river breaks through it, and is closely walled in by lofty bluffs, with here and there a little level plat containing a few hundred acres of fer- tile soil. Around the south side of these bluffs runs an open plain, several miles in width, which probably might be reached by a ditch some twelve or fifteen miles in length. There is near the remains of the old stage station (Three Crossings*) a very remarkable evidence of the effect of the wind: an immense deposit of sand in a bend of the granite hill, piled up against the bluif like a huge snow-drift. After passing through the gorge here the river enters a broad and beautiful valley, the upper portion of which is thickly covered with chenopodiaceous shrubs, the lower part being covered with a tall and thick growth of grass. The soil, though somewhat sandy, is very rich and light, and if irrigated would produce heavy crops of such products as are adapted to the climate. The immediate bottoms are narrow, sometimes entirely absent, but the second level is not more than ten or fifteen feet above the water, and could be reached by a ditch four or five miles long. And I think it probable an area of 80 to 100 square * These stations—St. Mary’s, Three Crossings, and Sweetwater—have been abandoned for some years, but I use them to give names to the localities, as they are yet retained on some maps. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 225 miles could be brought under cultivation here, and as timber could be obtained from the neighboring hills this would be a good point for a settlement. The Union Pacific Railroad is not more than sixty miles distant from this place. In the vicinity of Hayden’s Peaks,* the granite hills on one side and bluffs on the other press close to the margin of the river for a short dis- tanee, then receding from each other in a circular sweep again come close together a few miles beyond, inclosing a beautiful circular area containing some twenty or twenty-five square miles of fertile bottom land, which, as it is but slightly elevated above the water, can be irri- gated without difficulty. Passing the gate-like opening of the little park just described, we enter upon a broad valley, which continues without interruption to the “ Devil’s Gate,” about four miles above Independence Rock. A good part of this valley is covered with “ grease-wood” and sage, but the soil is very fertile and will produce good crops. Muddy Creek, which comes. in here from the south, has a tolerably broad margin of level land, but I doubt about it affording water for irrigation. The breadth of land here is probably equal to the supply of water. Around Independence Rock and for several miles above and below it are fine bottoms which can be irrigated. Between the river and Horse Creek there is a broad delta, which has an average elevation of twenty or thirty feet above the bed of the river, but less than that above the level of the creek. This plateau, and, in fact, a considerable area east of Horse Creek, could be reached by irrigating ditches, but the ditch from the river would require two short aqueducts at the Devil’s Gate. The soil of this plain is strongly impregnated in some places with alkali, otherwise it is rich in the elements of fertility. At present it is covered with “ grease-wood ” and sage, except in the little areas which are frosted over with alkaline inerustations; but this is no longer a terror to the agriculturist, who has learned how to manage it, if he only has an abundance of water and sufficient drainage. Along the ridge lying north of this plain, around the head-waters of Horse Creek and over the summit in the vicinity of Willow Springs, are some excellent grazing lands. The country along the Platte, from the mouth of Sweetwater to Poison Spring Creek, is broken and mountainous, and the river for part of the way runs through deep gorges and fails in this distance over four hundred feet, the fall from Independence Rock to Red Buttes being about five hundred and forty feet. ; The length of the Sweetwater Valley, from its commencement above St. Mary’s Station to the Platte, is about ninety miles, and the average width of the land which ean be brought under cultivation may be safely estimated at six miles. This would give a cultivable area of five hun- dred and forty square miles, or about three hundred and fifty thousand acres for this section, besides a few small areas on the upper portions of the Sweetwater that may possibly be brought under cultivation and mae to yield some of the hardier crops. I am aware that the dreary and desolate appearance of some parts of * Immediately north of Sweetwater River, about latitude 42° 28’, west longitude 107° 24’, the granite range bends around toward the west. On this semicircular portion there are three peaks; the one to the west shoots up in a sharp point, the one to the east is cleft by a deep notch, while the middle one is round and dome-like. As these promi- nent points had previous to our arrival received no names, the members of the party named them “ Hayden’s Peaks,” in honor of the leader of the expedition. On the map compiled by Colonel William HE. Merrill, under order of General Sherman, entitled “Map of Utah and Colorado,’ and published in 1869, they are included under the general name, ‘“ Granite Ridges.” 1G - 226 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. this secticn which I have described as susceptible of cultivation will have a tendeney to make some of the many who have traveled over this old emigrant route mistrust my judgment. I may be mistaken in refer- ence to the amount of land which can be brought under cultivation, for this is only an estimate made up without measurement, (except the direct distances as shown by the odometer,*) from estimates of the various parts, but if the supply of water does not fall short, I think this is not too large. And I have learned that the dreary look a covering of sage and grease-wood gives to the landscape is not to be taken as any evidence of the sterility of the soik Jam also pretty well satisfied that the climate here will prove more favorable to agriculture than that of Laramie Plains, and that the cereals (except corn) and the ordinary vegetables can be raised without any diticulty. I know of no experi- ments having been made in this section to: show what can be grown here, therefore have to judge’ from the character of the soil, elevation, latitude, surroundings, and the temperature so far as I could earn from those who had passed through it. AS a grazing region it is inferior to the Laramie Valley, yet the river bottoms. and mountain slopes (the granite hills excepted) afford very good grass. Timber is also scarce from the vicinity of St. Mary’s Sta- tion to the mouth. Here dnd there are groves of willow, and in the upper valleys a few cotton-wood trees, but those which formerly grew along this route, and which are mentioned by Frémont, have nearly all been. destroyed by the emigrants and others who have since traveled the road. It is possible that when the stream is full timber may be floated down from the mountains near‘South Pass. THE EASTERN SECTION. This section, the principal part of which lies east of the Black Hills, constitutes the remaining portion of the district under consideration. It consists of the valleys of the North Platte and its tributaries, from the Red Buttes to the mouth of Horse Creek, on the eastern boundary of the Territory. It also includes the valleys of Crow Creek, Larren’s Fork, and Lodge Pole to the boundary line, and the intervening plains, eontaining about nine thousand square miles, of which I estimate one- sixth, or nearly one million acres, can be irrigated and rendered tillable. ft was at first disposed to set down the amount of land in this section, susceptible of cultivation, at considerably less than these figures, but when I examined the barometric record showing the fail of the Platte I felt assured my first estimate was too small. The elevation, as might be inferred from the situation, varies considerably in the different parts, the northwestern and southwestern angles presenting the highest points, and the northeast the lowest. In order to give an idea of the topog- raphy of the country, I herewith note the elevation of the principal points bearing upon its facilities for irrigation ona large scale. Begin- ning at Red Buttes amd following the Platte, which runs near the north- east border of the section, the elevation above the sea level is as follows: Red Buttes, 5,528 feet; five miles below the Old Bridge, 5,252 feet; river bottom near Fort Fetterman, about 4,970 feet;+ Fort Laramie, accord- to Frémont, 4,470 feet, and as given by Stansbury, 4,519 feet; mouth of *T was careful to obtain the distances each day from Mr. Beaman, that my compari- sons might be made on the ground. +The barometric observation was taken on the La Prele, about two miles above Fort Fetterman, where the elevation is just 5,012 fooks I have deducted 42 feet as the prob- able fall to the river bottom. | GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Dob Horse Creek, 4,395 feet. From which it appears that the entire fall from Red Buttes to Horse Creek is 1,135 feet, or an average of about seven feet to the mile. The fall between the intermediate points are as follows: From Red Buttes to the Bridge, eighteen feet to the mile; from the Bridge to Fort Fetterman, a little over seven feet to the mile; from there to Horse Creek, about the same. These figures develope a fact of the utmost importance in calculating the agricultural capacity of this section. A fall of over one thousand feet in less than one hundred and fifty miles, with the volume of water found in this part of the river, will give the means of irrigating an immense amount of land. But in regard to this I will speak more fully when I come to the more minute description of this part of the section. The elevation of Laramie bottom, at the mouth of Chugwater, is about four thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea.* The Chug- water Valley, where the stage road to Fort Laramie strikes it, has an elevation of five thousand four hundred and sixty feet; Cheyenne, six thousand and forty feet. Poison Spring Creek is a small stream coming dow from the north- west, and entering the North Platte at Red Buttes. It runs through a very pretty valley, averaging about one mile wide, flanked on the west by a broad plain, which gradually ascends as it recedes from the stream. On the east the hills rise rapidly to a sharp ridge running parallel with the creek. It has been stated that the water of this stream is poisonous, but I noticed some of our animals drinking from it as we crossed it, and I think one of the men also filled a canteen with the water for drinking on the road. No bad effects followed. Some two or three species of plants were also growing luxuriantly in the stream. The amount of water at the time we passed it (August) was small, but sufficient to irri- gate the immediate bottoms. The entire valley was covered with a rank growth of grass. Near the Red Buttes, in the bend of the North Platte, is a beautiful bottom of perhaps one thousand two hundred or one thousand five hun- dred acres of fertile soil. On one side of the river there is a thick grove of cottonwood, willow, &c., but on the other (north) the timber has been destroyed by emigrants and others who have camped at this point. Immediately below this the river enters a gorge or caflon some eight or tenemiles long, where, as a matter of course, no cultivable land worthy of note is to be found. The slopes toward the river, except for a very short distance, are not so precipitous as to present any serious obstacle to the cutting of a canal around them, if it should be found necessary to tap the river this high up. On the south side a canal could reach as far up as the mouth of the caiion above Red Buttes, but on the north side the depression at Poison Spring Creek would present a serious obstacle if commenced higher up than the upper end of the cation. As the fall between Red Buttes and the Old Bridge is nearly or quite four hundred *The barometric readings taken by Mr. Beaman on the Laramie bottom, some two or three miles above the mouth of the Chugwater, give four thousand five hundred and thirteen feet as the elevation at that point. Four very uniform readings were obtained, the weather being clear and cool. The distance from this point to Fort Laramie is -about twenty-one or twenty-two miles. Mr. Frémont gives the elevation of Fort Lar- amie as four thousand four hundred and seventy feet, while Stansbury, who, it seems, camped on the same ground, or very near it, makes it four thousand five hundred and nineteen feet. As we did not visit Fort Laramie, I have no means ot ascertaining where the error lies. As Mr. Beaman’s instrument did not admit of accurate readings nearer than one tenth, an error of fifty or sixty feet might have occurred in his calculations. | As the Laramie runs pretty rapidly, the fall between Chugwater and the fort cannot be less than one hundred feet. 228 GEOLOGICAL’ SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. feet, it would be sufficient to carry the water on the table lands which spre ead out from here eastward. On the north side a short tunnel might be necessary, but below this point, so far as I observed, there would be no other difficulty than an occasional lengthy flexure round the head of a dry ravine, and perhaps here and there a short aqueduct. On the south side I think there would be less difficulty. Imake no pretensions here to engineering accuracy, as I only had time to take hasty glances at the country as we passed along in our somewhat rapid march. A short distanee below the Old Bridge I made an approximate estimate of the volume of water in the river. I found that a cross section at the low stage of water of that season (August) was equal to one hundred and sixty by two feet, or three hundred and twenty square feet, running at the rate of three miles per hour, or a discharge of two hundred and sixty-four cubic feet to the second, which, earlier in the season, when most needed for irrigation, must be much greater. With this amount of water, and the considerable fall there is in this part of the river, making ample allowance for errors in the elevation, a vast body of land can be irrigated and brought under cultivation. tis true that all this land on the north side of the river lies in an Indian reservation, but this renders a knowledge of the fact only the more important; for, in my judgment, if the Indian problem is ‘ever solved without destroying them, it will be by the aid of agriculture. In order to show that the soil of this region is possessed of the ele- ments of fertility, I quote the following remarks from General Frémont’s report, which w ill doubtless be corr oborated by the report of the United States geologist for the present year: The nature of the soil may be inferred from its geological formation. The limestane at the eastern limit of this section (between Fort Laramie and Red Buttes) is sueceeded by limestone without fossils, a great variety of sandstone, consisting principally of red sandstone and fine conglomerate. The red sandstone is argillaceous, with compact gypsum or alabaster, very beautiful. The other sandstones are gray, yellow, and fer- rug inous, sometimes very coarse. The apparent sterility of the country must therefore be sought in other causes than the nature of the soil. The face of the country cannot with propriety be called hilly. It is a succession of long ridges made by the numerous streams which come down from the neighboring mountain range. [By this he alludes to the south side.] The zvidges have an undulating surface, with some such appear- ance as the ocean in an ordin: ary breeze. I did not have an opportunity of seeing the North Platte bottoms ut a part of the distance between the rnins of Fort Casper and the boundary line. I will therefore limit myself to a description of these portions, from which a pretty correct idea of the whole may be formed, as they are said to be quite uniform throughout. Tn the vicinity of Fort Casper, on the south side of the river, there is a broad level bottom, some four or five miles in width, mostly covered with a rank growth of grass mixed with tall weeds, showing the soil to be quite fertile and that it contains a moderate proportion of vegetable mold. Below this a second level sets in, which is raised but a few feet above the lowest. This is cone entire sage plain, and spreads out to some eight or nine miles in width. Before reaching Muddy Creek, the low, rounded hills approach the river for a few miles, narrowing the bottom to a mere strip. At Muddy it again expands to six or eight miles, and is covered in part by a thick growth of greasewood. The creek, although containing a considerable volume of water, is confined to a very narrow, ditch-like channel, cut in the fine-grained soil, which here has a marly appearance. _ he opposite side of the river for most of this distance is bordered by low blufis, which seem to be the escarpments of a plateau from a hun- dred to a hundred and &fy feet high. At some points these recede from GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Pipe the river, leaving a narrow belt of bottom land. For some distance above Fort Fetterman there is a broad valley, partly bottom land and partiy the second level, all of which could be easily irrigated, and would afford a fine farming region. I think we may safely estimate the average width of the immediate valley of the river, from Fort Casper, or the Old Bridge, to the territo- rial line, at four miles. This alone would give a cultivable area of six hundred square miles. Add to this the additional amount which can be brought into use by the canals heretofore proposed, and the estimate I have given for this section will not appear too large. West of Fort Fetterman, Deer and Box Elder Creeks flow into the Platte from the south, each affording a narrow belt of irrigable land, and fields of excellent pasturage, the principal supply of hay for the fort being cut from the valley of Deer Creek. The La Prele, which con- nects with the Platte near the fort, is bordered chiefly by high hills and _ bluffs, its bottoms being narrow and irregular and the supply of water small. There is one thing which will probably have a tendency to retard the settlement of this part of the Platte Valley; that is the wind. Our at- tention was first called to this while crossing a broad valley a few miles south of Fetterman, where a strong and constant wind swept down upon us from the west. While camping on the La Prele this was of daily oc- currence; and from Fetterman to Poison Spring Creek we felt its effects each day, except when sheltered behind some bluff or ridge. While rossing the river near old Fort Casper, and for a few miles along the north bank, where we were directly opposite the mouth of the gorge,,. the wind was so strong that we were compelled to tie our hats upon our heads, yet the day was clear and sunny. Frémont in his report says this place is celebrated for winds, of which the prevailing ones are west; which corresponds with our experience, with this exception, that when south of Fetterman they came from the northwest. Stansbury, while in the vicinity of Box Elder Creek, speaks of a “brsk wind from the northwest,” adding that the morning was bright and cocl. And he also states that after he had passed through the gap to the vicinity of Poison Spring Creek, “the wind rose from the southwest and blew almost a hurricane the whole day, tearing up the sand and gravel, and dashing it into our faces, as we rode, with such violence as to cause sensible pain.” And the cause of this I think is apparent. Here the mountain range is completely severed, and an open gap exists between the western and eastern plains. Through this the cooler surface atmosphere of the higher mountain plains rushes down to fill the space left by the warmer ascending air of the broad eastern plains. It is true this kind of movement is going on along the entire mountain range, but it is in a quiet manner, while here the entire vol- ume from a broad expanse is pressed through a narrow channel, and as a necessary consequence the current is strong. Having passed through the gap it expands upon the open space to the east, sending currents along the valleys north and south. Between Fort Fetterman and Laramie River a number of streams rising in the Black Hills run east and empty into the Platte, the most important of which are the La Bonté, Elkhorn, Horseshoe and Bitter Cottonwood. The La Bonté drains a very pretty and fertile valley which is of moderate width, and is covered at points with groves of cottonwood, willow, &c. This valley is pretty well shielded, for most of its length, by high hills which border it on each side, and pr esents a good point for "a small farming settlement. Horseshoe and Elkhorn Creeks 230 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. are flanked by narrow bottoms, but as the supply of water is not con- stant throughout their course they cannot be depended upon for irri- gating purposes unless the water is brought down by ditches which be- gin near the mountains. The bottoms of Bitter Cottonwood are only of moderate width, but for most of its length these are bordered by second levels of considera- . ble width which are quite low. The water of this creek is probably suf- ficient, in the first part of the summer, to irrigate the entire lands in reach, but late in the season it would be deficient. The soil in this valley is not so good as that of the La Bonté. The valleys of the Laramie and its principal tributary, Chugwater, present the most desirable points for agricultural purposes in the sec- — tion. In fact I consider the short valley of the Laramie River, from the mountains to the Platte, one of the atoiee spots of the entire district. The elevation being about one thousand five hundred feet less than Cheyenne, and two thousand six hundred feet lower than Laramie City ; and shielded from the winds by the mountains on the west, and the high bluffs and hills on the north and south, it possesses a climate several degrees warmer than most of the section, and is not so Hable to be vis- ited by those untimely frosts and snows which often do so much injury to crops in this mountain district. The extent of the bottom is not very great, the entire area probably not exceeding seventy-five or eighty square miles, yet the fall of the river and “olume of water are sufficient to irrigate much of the bordering table lands. The supply of timber is ample, the mountain heights affording g an abundance of pine and fir for _lumber, and the groves of the bottoms cottonwood for fuel, &c. : Frémont bears testimony to the moderate climate, say ing, “The win- ter here is remarkably mild for the latitude; but rainy weather is fre- quent, and the place is celebrated for winds, of which the prevailing one is west. An east wind in summer, and a south wind in winter, are said to be always accompanied with rain.” What he says in regard to the place being celebrated for winds is certainly true, as a general rule, and while this may apply directly to the eastern end of this valley and the table lands, i think the bottom lands are generally screened by the hills and bluffs. Stansbury, although unfavorably impressed with this region generally, remarks in regard to the lower part of this valley, ‘“‘ That he has no doubt that, with the aid of irrigation, the bottom land of Laramie Creek may be made to produce abundant crops ;” and that “ hay is cut about eight miles up the stream in quantity sufficient to supply the garrison.” The Chugwater runs northeast for some thirty-five or forty miles along the ba se of the Black Hills, watering a beautiful valley, which averages about two miles wide. This valley is bordered on each side by high bluffs, which wall itin for the greater part of its length. The bottoms are very fertile and easily irrigated, and the supply of water is probably sufficie nt for this purpose, although it appears to sink at some points and then rise again, but if drawn off by irrigating ditches this would be prevented and the supply would be constant. Horse Creek and its affluents furnish a considerable amount of valley land and levei bottoms, but, with the exception of that found along the main branch, which rises in the mountains, little of it can be brought into use by the usual system of irrigating, as the supply of water is net constant. Reservoirs along the little affluents would be the means of bringing a large body of land under culture. The same remarks will apply to Larren’s Fork, which, as it is not a mountain stream, dries up in the latter part of the season. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Zo Lodge Pole Creek is an isolated stream rising near Cheyenne Pass and flowing with a moderate fall eastward through a narrow valley, bordered each side.by broad, rounded ridges. The amount of bottom land is limited, but as much, perhaps, as the water in the stream will supply. Itis probable that by commencing a canal near the mountain a much larger and more constant supply “could be obtained; and the upper lands and broad ridges can easily be reached if water can be obtained, Crow Creek rises in the Black Hills west of Cheyenne, and, running east for a short distance beyond this city, bends south and passes into Colorado. Although the valley is narrow and the stream small, its sit- uation renders it important, and efforts are now in progress which will probably develop the entire capability of the stream. If the supply of water was sufficient the entire plains around the city could be irrigated and the land made to produce useful crops. I have been informed that the Union Pacific Railroad Company intend shortly to take steps to irrigate some of their lands in the southeast part of Wyoming by canals, but as they neglected to furnish any infor- mation on this point, I can state nothing positively in regard to it. Tam of the opinion that the rain-fall is on the increase in the imme- diate vicinity of this city, and that as the land is irrigated and brought under cultivation, this increase will become more rapid. And the import- ance of the subject and locality will be sufficient excuse for my giving my reasons for this opinion. While remaining in camp at Fort D. A. Russell for several days in 1869, and also in 187 70, I noticed that the rains would generally commence several miles to the west, and moving north for some distance would wheel around eastward and then *bear down upon us from the north. I think nine out of every ten followed this course during the time I no- ticed them, which was in the months of July and August. As Cheyenne Pass, which lies north of the fort a few miles, affords a depression through which the air from the west rushes down, we may conclude that a large eddy in the surface currents exists here. I know nothing in regard to the course of the winter rains and storms. If I am right, then the influx of population into the southern rim of this eddy will, by increasing the evaporating surface of the water, increase the amount of rain in this circuit. These remarks, as a matter of course, only apply to the limited rains of the spring and summer. This section has a milder climate than any other portion of the dis- trict, yet its parts differ considerably in temperature, corresponding somewhat to the elevation and freedom from prevailing winds. As the population is confined almost exclusively to Cheyenne and vicinity, we have no means of comparing records of the seasons. All the agricultural products which can_be grown in the other sections of the district can be raised here; and in addition to these it is very probable that corn can be raised in the lower valleys. Hine grazing fields are to be found throughout the section, in the val- leys and along the slopes of the mountains, and even where there are no running streams wells may be dug and water found at moderate depths, which can easily be raised by wind-mills in sufficient quantity to supply stock and possibly assist in irrigation. Timber in abundance can be obtained along the mountains and on some of the streams from Chugwater north. I believe some saw-mills have already been erected on the upper portions of the last-named stream. The soil and face of the country is very similar to the South Platte 2a2 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. district until we pass Laramie River going north, when it begins to assume the wave-like appearance noticed by. Frémont. Some experiments have been made in farming and gardening around Cheyenne, at Fort Fetterman and other points, which are, perhaps, the coldest portions of the section, yet the results, so far as I can learn, have been quite favorable. THE WIND RIVER DISTRICT. As I did not have an opportunity of visiting this district, I can only give such information respecting it as I derived from others. The prin- cipal facts in regard to its extent and productions were obtained from Major Baldwin, who is thoroughly acquainted with it, and who has a farm there under cultivation. I also saw specimens of its productions in quantity, which were brought to South Pass City for sale, which veri- fied the statements made to me respecting its climate and fertility. It is drained by the Wind (or Big Horn*) River and its tributaries, and is situated between the Wind River Mountains on the west and Big Horn Mountains on the east. From the borders of Little Popoagie to the Big Horn Cafion, its length is about one hundred and seventy-five miles, and the average width of the country drained being about one hundred miles, giving an area of seventeen thousand five hundred square miles. It is supposed that one-twelfth of it, or about one thousand four hun- dred square miles, can be irrigated and cultivated, but as I was unable to obtain any estimate of its subdivisions, except that of the principal valley, I cannot say that this is approximately correct, but I do not think it exaggerated if the reports as to the supply of water be true. Wind River rises in Wind River Mountains, on the west side of the district, and, flowing a little south of east for some sixty or seventy miles, bends abruptly 1 north, which is its general course from this point until it passes out of the Territory. The length of its valley is estimated at two hundred miles, and its width from two to fifteen, but it is inter- rupted at some points, especially at the irregular range of hills or moun- tains that crosses the district from east to west near the middle of its length. The following tributaries flow into the main stream on the north and west side: The North Fork, Owl Creek, Gray Bull, and Stinking Water Creeks. On the south and west side are the following affluents: South Fork, Buffalo Bull Creek, Big Popoagie River, Beaver Cre eek, and No- Ww ood River. Little Wind River and Little Popoagie Creeks are tribu- taries of Big Popoagie. All of these streams are bordered by more or less arable land, which is generally quite fertile and can be irrigated, as the supply of water is ample. I understand the Indian agency here intends cutting a canal and drawing the water from Wind River above the bend, which, it is estimated, will irrigate several thousand acres. All of these streams, except No-Wood River, are skirted by heavy erowths of cottonwood and willow. Wheat, oats, and barley can be raised with ease, the climate being sufficiently mild and the season of sufficient length for them to mature, but it is rather severe for corn. Potatoes and cabbages grow finely and of pretty good size, but the turnips I saw, if a fair sample, did not indicate a favorable locality for their production. Somewhat to my surprise, the beans raised here, of which I examined several bushels in the green pods, were very large, plump, and well filled, which would indicate a freedom from late frosts *This stream is called Wind River until it passes through the first range of moun- tains, north of which it has received the name of Big Horn River. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 233 I did not expect to find here. But since that time I have learned some facts which go to show that there are some valleys and localities even north of this, especially on the west side of the range, where the climate is comparatively mild, and where not only the hardier cereals, but corn can be raised, and will produce a moderately good crop. I do not know what the elevation of this valley is, but am inclined to believe that it is lower than that of the Sweetwater. Major Baldwin thinks that it will not average more than five thousand feet above the level of the sea. g I believe the greater part of this district is embraced in an Indian reservation; but, as I have heretofore remarked, this only makes a knowledge of its agricultural capacity the more important. THE WESTERN DIVISION. A full consideration of the territory on the western slope of the great divide, lying opposite to that in the eastern division, would include, not only the Salt Lake basin, but also the vast district drained by the Rio Colorado of the West and its numerous tributaries. But this [ am una- ble to do, especially in regard to the latter; for while my observations and information extended over the greater part of the Great Salt Lake basin, they were limited, in the Rio Colorado district, to a part of the Green River country, the valley of the Rio Virgin, and the head-waters of the San Juan and Flax Rivers. The last two I have embraced in my report on New Mexico, and the valley of the Rio Virgin I will include in a description of the Salt Lake district, leaving only the Green River section to be described separately. This, I am aware, breaks in upon my plan of making each separate water system a district, but as l am unable to carry it out in this case, I thought it best to throw the differ- ent parts of the Territories together as much as possible consistent with the general plan. This division is a part of the great inter-alpine trough lying between the Rocky Mountain and Sierra Nevada ranges, which terminates north in the plains of the Columbia, and is lost in the south in the broad plateaus of Arizona and Mexico. Its situation, so far from the imme- diate Pacifie slope and Mississippi Valley, with immense rugged ranges ef mountains on each side, and yet on the line of travel between the Aftlantie and Pacific shores, renders a knowledge of its agricultura capacity of great importance. And amore complete investigation on this point by the Government would not be money spent in vain. The lowest level of the area under consideration is reached in the Salt - Lake Valley, which is about four thousand three hundred feet above the sea, while various arable points in each district are found as high as seven thousand feet. THE GREEN RIVER DISTRICT. I regret my inability to describe this district in full, not only because without it my work is incomplete, but more particularly because I think there is here a large body of irrigable land, which is unoccupied. It is probable that the portion of the area, drained by Green River and its tributaries, which lies within Wyoming Territory, amounts to some fit teen thousand or sixteen thousand square miles. The southeastern part consists principally of broad barren sage plains, with but little water, and is, as a general thing, of but little value, unless it can be re- deemed by means of artesian wells. The southern part is composed 234 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. chiefly of boulder ridges and plateaus, with washed and bluffy esearp- ments, in consequence of which the term ‘ bad lands” is sometimes applied to it. This section is partially supplied with streams berdered with narrow arable strips, which can be irrigated, and, notwithstanding jheir barren appearance, are really quite fertile. The southwest corner is broken and mountainous and contains very little land that can be cultivated, but includes some fine grazing fields. The northern triangu- lar section, lying between the’ Wind River and Wahsatch Mountains, contains the greater part of the arable land in the district, and is di- vided into three distinct parts or sub-sections, as follows: the Green River Valley, the Big Sandy Valley, and the broad, somewhat elevated © plains lying between them. Green River, rising in the Wind River Mountains near Frémont’s Peak, runs in a southerly direction for about one hundred and twenty miles to the 42d parallel, where it turns southeast, and is joined by Big Sandy, where it crosses the 110th meridian. It continues the same course, aiter receiving the waters of the Big Sandy, to the crossing of the Union Pacific Railroad, where it again turns south and passes out of the Territory. Between its source and the 42d parallel it is jomed by a number of small affluents that flow down from the mountains on’ the west, the more important of which are, Lead Horse, Marshy, White Clay, Butternut, Piney, La Barge, Fontenelle, and State Creeks. Although I have not had an opportunity of a full examination of this part of the section, yet I am satisfied there must be a large amount of arable land that can be irrigated by the waters of these creeks. And this opinion is strengthened by observing the volume of water in the river above its junction with the Big Sandy, for where we crossed it in September, (the time of year when its waters are low,) it was about one hundred and twenty feet wide, with an average depth of fifteen inches, and running very swiftly. There is but one stream of any importance— the New Fork—that comes in from the east, but this is the longest trib- utary north of the bend. I do not know what the fall of the river is, but 1t must be considerable, as its current is rapid and its bottom, where I saw it, covered with clean round pebbles. I suppose it cannot be less than eight or ten feet to the © mile, which is sufficient to reach the surface of the broad plateau that spreads out east of it. If I am correct in my conclusions, it will be pos- sible to irrigate a body of land equal to the entire capacity of the stream, and we may therefore safely estimate the amount of land in this section which can can be brought under cultivation at eight or nine hundred square miles. It is true this estimate is based on slender data, but I think it cannot be too large, for the Green River bottoms alone will make one-fourth of this amount, while the larger irrigable area is on the second level or tabie lands, which vary from fifteen to fifty feet in height, above the waters of the stream and spread out to great width. The broad tract that spreads out between this river and Big Sandy is level and sandy, presenting a barren and desolate appearance, on which ac- count it is sometimes called ‘The Colorado Desert.” Itis covered with a low growth of Artemisia, and a close examination of the soil shows that it possesses the elements of fertility, and only needs the addition of water to make it productive. Although the supply of water from Green River is not sufficient to irrigate all this extensive tract it will furnish a broad belt of it. The Big Sandy rises in the Wind River range a few miles to the northwest of South Pass, and runs south until it is joined by the Little Sandy—its principal tributary—when, bending southwest, it contimues this course wntil it joins Green River. The upper portion passes almost GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 235 its entire length through a level sage plain, averaging about twenty-five or thirty feet higher than the surface of the creek. The immediate bot- toms are generally narrow, and often wanting on one side. The fall of the creek here is sufficient to carry the water on the plains, but the supply is not sufficient to irrigate a belt more than a mile or two in width. The country bordering the upper portion of Little Sandy is somewhat broken and hilly, particularly on the east side, but it enters the plains before it is joined by Pacific Creek, and is flanked through- out by all the level land its waters can irrigate. The Big Sandy, from the point where it is joined by the little Sandy to its mouth, runs through a narrow valley, generally flanked on one side by tolerably high bluffs, which are the margins of the elevated plains that here rise from seventy-five to one hundred feet above the creek. The average width of the immediate bottoms is, perhaps, half a mile, but the upper level can be reached with canals a few miles long, and the breadth of cultivable land increased to the full extent of the supply of water. The elevation of the little Sandy bottom, just above its junction with Pacific Creek, is six thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the sea, while that of Big Sandy bottom near Big Timbers— twenty-five miles by the road from the former—is five thousand eight hundred and eighteen feet. This shows that between these points there is a fall of over twenty feet to the mile. Ten miles further down, Where it empties into Green River, the altitude is five thousand five hundred and six feet above the sea level, showing a fall of nearly thirty feet to the mile, which is sufficient to reach the highest plateaus which border the valiey. Although I traveled over this sub-section, and noted carefully every- thing observable bearing upon its agricultural capacity, yet Lam unable to form any very reliable estimate of the area of its irrigable lands. This difficulty arises from a want of information concerning the volume of water these streams send down during the irrigating season. If, as is probably the case, they are much larger at that season than when we crossed them, ther the estimate of the tillable lands must be much larger than if judged by the waiter at the time of our visit. Assuming the larger volume, I would place the estimate at about one hundred and twenty square miles in this sub-section. The average elevation of this entire section is between five thousand five hundred and six thousand five hundred feet above the sea level, which is lower than that of the Laramie Plains, but the climate is not so temperate as that of the Salt Lake basin. Wheat, oats, barley, and such rocts and vegetables as are mentioned as growing at Laramie City, can be raised here. The north part of the Green River Valley may have some good graz- ing fields, but neither the lower part of this valley nor that of the Sandy afford any very extensive or valuable areas suitable for pasturage. There is some cottonwood along the Green River and the lower part of Big Sandy, but as a general thing this entire region is destitute of timber, none being found nearer than the mountains. The remainder of my report on this district relates only to such detached portions as were visited by the expedition. Black’s FKork, tothe point where it is joined by Ham’s Fork, is bor- dered by a bottom of moderate width, which will afford space for a number of farms, and a grazing area of considerable extent. At the time of our visit to this place, a drove of one thousand cattle was rest- ing and feeding here, preparatory to their departure west. This stream, to its junction with Green River, is flanked by narrow bottoms, which 236 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. are fertile and well grassed, as a general thing, and which can easily be irrigated. As there isa tolerably good supply of water during the grow- ing season, it is probable.a portion of the uplands, where level, can be irrigated, thus increasing the tillable area, The higher plateau between this stream and Henry’s Fork is beyond the reach of irrigation, but between this and the streams around it runs a lower level, varying in breadth from a few rods to ten or twelve BOS and generally about fifteen or twenty feet above the immediate creek bottoms. This level, which is mostly covered with a thick growth of artemisia, can be irr i. gated as far as the supply of water will, go. The broad expanse around Church Butte can be reached by a canal some eight or ten miles in length, but the supply of water in Black’s Fork is hardly sufficient to justify the expense. A canal might probably be cut from Green River, commencing some eighteen or twenty miles above the railroad, which would not ‘only irrigate the broad level portions of the plains lying west of the river and south of Ham’s Fork, but if a suitable place for crossing Black’s Fork Valley with an aqueduct can be found, might also supply the first level south of the latter stream. Around Fort Bridger, on the head-waters of Black’s Fork and its tributaries, Smith’s Fork and Cottonwood Creek, are some fine farming lands, and on Smith’s Fork a number of farms are already in cultivation, producing fine crops of wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, &c. The tillable area in this neighborhood amounts to several thousand acres. A proposition has been made to run a branch railroad from some point on the Union Pacific Railroad near Carter Station, up Smith’s Fork, tothe Uintah Mountains, in order to reach the abundant supply. of pine timber to be found there. The altitude of Fort Bridger is about seven thousand feet above the sea level. Concerning the country east of Smith’s Fork I quote from the journal of Dr. Turnbull, as during the passage of the expedition over this sec- tion I was absent examining the lands of Utah: ““Hrom Fort Bridger to Henry’s Fork, with the exception of the valley of Smith’s Fork, the countr y has a sterile appearance and is without means of irrigation, being generally covered with a scattering and stunted growth of artenvisia. ‘“‘Henry’s Fork traverses a beautiful valley, something like thirty miles . long and from two to five miles wide, can be easily irrigated, and will produce heavy crops of cereals and the hardy roots and vegetables. At present it is covered with a Inxuriant growth of grass, from which not only a supply for the military postis obtained, but also for shipment to other points. During the time of our passage threugh this region, some twenty-five hundred head of Texas cattle were resting and feeding at Brown’s Hole. ‘“‘ The valley of Green River, between Black’s Fork and Bear River, is generally narrow, varying in width from afew rods to three or four miles, but as we approach the mouth of Vermillion Creek it widens out into a broad, bay-like valley about twelve miles long and seven or eight in width, which is one broad meadow. On the east side of the river, between Currant and Red Creeks, there is a broad sage plain of moder- ate elevation, which could be watered from the river by means of canals a few miles long, and, although having a barren look, would doubtless produce good crops. “Brom Bitter Creek east, until we reach Muddy or Washakie Creek, a tributary to Bear River, the country is desolate and yninviting, and the water generally bad, being impregnated with alkaline matter. At GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Ok the latter plenty of good grass is to be obtained, but the irrigable and tillable area is limited.” From the data obtained by the expedition while in this section, Tam led to the conclusion that a thorough investigation of the northeast part of Utah and northwest part of Colorado would reveal the fact that there is a large area of land there which can be cultivated, not in ex- tensive bodies, but in long narrow valleys and belts. But it is probable the reports of others, who have been making some examinations of this mountainous region, may supply that which we have to omit for want of information. Timber is abundant along the slopes of the Uintah Mountains, and some of the valleys are tolerably well supplied with cottonwood. SALT LAKE DISTRICT. This district, which lies partly in Utah and partly in Nevada, is a vast elliptical basin about three hundred and fifty miles in length from north to south, and varying from fifty to three hundred miles in width, being on an average about one hundred and eighty or one hundred and ninety miles wide, and containing an area of some sixty-five thousand square miles. As there is a large portion of this territory which is but little known, and which has never been examined with a view of ascer- taining its agricultural capacity, it is very difficult to give even an ap- prox imate estimate of the cultivable lands within its bounds. Omitting what may hereafter be discovered to be cultivable in the western section, I think we may safely place the estimate at three thousand square miles, or about two million acres. An irregular range of hills or mountains starting from the west side of Salt Lake runs south a little west of the 113th meridian to the Seth parallel, when it bends southeast and forms an imperfect junction with the southern extremity of the Wahsatch Mountains. By this range the basin is divided into two unequal parts, that on the east, which contains nearly all the known arable land, being much smaller than the western section. This latter portion consists chiefly of broad, flat, sandy plains, often destitute of vegetation, and in many places covered with saline iner ie tations, showing plainly that the lake formerly extended over a much larger area in this direction than at present. As this western section, so far as known, contains but very little arable land—this being limited to the extreme southeast border—and as the entire basin consists of minor basins with distinct water systems, I shall not attempt to consider the district by sections, but will deseribe it by the minor basins and valleys, so far as I have visited them and obtained reliable information concerning them. Leaving out of the list the broad northwestern plains, the following are the more important minor basins: the Salt Lake Basin, Rush Valley, Sevier River Basin, and Beaver River Basin. SALT LAKE BASIN. This basin embraces the territory immediately around the lake, and that drained by the numerous streams that flow into it, of which the principal ones are Bear, Weber, and Jordan Rivers, the last ineluding as its tributaries the streams. that discharge their waters into Utah Lake. This basin is nearly two hundred miles in length, and covers over 238 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. one-fourth of the entire district; and within its jsonindls are contained the choice lands and chief population of Utah. Beginning at the north end of the lake, and wong east and then south, [ will describe the country, so far as my observation and informa- tion extend, by valleys, in the order in which they come. I did not visit either Hansee Spring Valley or Blue Spring Valley, which lie north of the promontory; nor did I sueceed in obtaining any very definite information concerning the agricultural capacity of either; but from all I could learn i am satisfied they contain very little arable land. The former is not supplied with streams that will furnish water for irrigation, and the principal stream in the latter is very strongly impregnated with saline matter. The southern portions of these valleys have a barren appearance, and are but sparsely covered with vegetation ; the soil is also saturated with salt or alkali. Farther north there are probably some better portions and some small areas susceptible of eul- tivation, and grass may also be found near the mountains. The Malade Valley, which extends north into Idaho, is drained by the Malade River, and is a very pretty, fertile section; and, including the shore of Bear River Bay, is about forty miles long, with an average width of five miles. It contains about one hundred and fifty square miles of land which may be irrigated, and in the northern part are some fine fields of grass. Although the Malade River is narrow, it sends down a considerable volume of water, sufficient, I think, to irrigate all thé level land of the valley as far south as the “ gate,” or canon, through which Bear River emerges. From this point water can be drawn from the latter stream to irrigate the south end of the valley. Although a portion of the land near the bay may be unfit for agricultural purposes, yet several thonsand acres can be brought under cultivation in the . vicinity of Corinne, where it would doubtless prove quite profitable. The Cache Valley, the next one to the east, is an expansion of the otherwise ribbon-like valley of Bear River, and extends north and south from the divide between Muddy and Box Elder into the southern border of Idaho. Its length from Paradise to the mountains above Franklin is about fifty miles, varying in width from six to sixteen and averaging as much as twelve miles. About one-half of its area, or three hundred square miles, can be irrigated and rendered suitable for cultivation. Not only can, the bottoms be irrigated, but the benches and uplands between Paradise and Franklin may be reached by digging ditches a few miles in length; for, in addition to the river, there are numerous little streams running down into the valley from the Wahsatch Moun- tains on the east, as “follows: Muddy, Blacksmith’s Fork, High Fork, Gros Bois Creek, and Logan’s Fork, and Rush Creek from the west, all of which afford water. This is probably the finest grazing section in the entire basin, and sit- uated asit is near the junction of three railroads, must become a ‘favorite pasture ground for stock-raisers and stock-traders. Occasionally, feed- ing may be required for a short time in the winter, on account of the snow, but this seldom extends over three or four weeks during the sea- son. This is also one of the best wheat-growing valleys in the district, being second to none but the San Pete. It is colder than the valley of the Jordan, as is also that of the Malade, and therefore not so well adapted to fruit or corn as the sections farther south, yet apples and the hardier fruits can be raised. The attractive features and situation of this valley have drawn a considersble population here, so that already between thirty and thirty-five thousand acres have been irrigated. Box Elder, and the other little streams that connect with ‘it, are bor- é J GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 239 dered by some excellent lands which can be easily irrigated. A settle- ment has been made here and some land is under cultivation, but what amount | am unable to say. Bear River rises in the Uintah Mountains, near the southwest corner of Wyoming, and running north within Utah Territory, but very near the eastern boundary, passes up into Idaho for forty or fifty miles, where, bending suddenly southwest, it enters the Cache Valley Most of the distance from where the Union Pacific Railroad enters a to its northern bend, it is flanked by anarrow belt of bottom land, which occasionally, as in the vicinity of Medicine Butte, and near the point where it er oe the boundary line, expands te four or five miles in width, but for th whole-length the average width cannot safely be estimated at more than one mile. Its chief value will be as a erazing region when the broader valleys have been taken up, its elev: ation and ‘Tnountainous surroundings making it teo cold for any but the hardier cereals and vegetables. The average fall of the river is about twelve feet to the mile, which is sufficient to carry it upon any table lands that may border it which are not more than one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high. Tam not sufficiently acquainted with the country through which it runs to state what is the probable amount of land that may thus be rendered cultivable. I know there are occasional belts of the second level, but I think these are limited. Around Bear River Lake there is a strip of arable land and some grassy meadows. Ogden’s Hole, which is a little park in the Wahsatch Mountains, drained by Ogden Creek, is about fifteen miles long and seven miles wide. This beautiful valley is hemmed in on all sides by high mountains, from which flow down little streams of crystal water sufficient to irri- gate nearly the entire area. The greater part is covered over by a thick growth of nutritious grass, and affords an excellent grazing field. The remarks made in regard to the climate and products in Bear River Val- ley will apply here. “Weber River, along which the railroad runs for some distance—from where it emerges from the cation to where it enters upon Salt Lake Val- ley proper—passes through a very pretiy, and, for the most part, fertile section, which is rapidly filling up with pullages and settlements, and is so well known to every one who has traveled along the Union Paciiice Railroad, that-any description of it would be superfluous. The arable land in the valley, including the little spots on Echo Creek, may be estimated at one hundred square miles, or sixty-four thousa md ACreS. i may add thatthe soil is very fertile, and, although the climate is slightly colder than that of the Salt Lake Valley, apples and some other fruits can be raised without difficulty. In order to prevent confusion, I have limited the name “Salt Lake Valley” to the strip of level land lying along the eastern shore between the lake and the Wahsatch Mountains. Its length from Salt Lake City to Willard City, in a direct line, is about fifty miles, varying In width from two to fifteen miles, and averaging about ten. Of this area I estimate three-fifths, or three hundred square miles, as susceptible of cultivation. I am aware that with the present systems of irrigation it would be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain sufficient water to irrigate this extent, but by making reservoirs and bringing upon it all the water that is within reach from the streams north “and south, my estimate will not be too large; and, by this means, part of 240 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the higher lands south of Weber River may be rendered fit for cul- ture. E The soil, although in many places covered with artemisia, and more or less impregnated with saline matter, is very rich and productive, as the farms already under cultivation show. — The northern and southern portions contain the principal settlements, as there the land is lowest and most easily irrigated. As the productions of this and the remaining portions of the basin are similar, I will speak of them after I have described the different sec- tions. The valley of the Jordan extends almost directly nerth and south from Utah Lake to Great Sait Lake; the lofty peaks of Wahsatch range — walling it in on the east, and the Oquirrh Mountains bounding it on the west. From the lower end of the canon to its northern extremity, where it spreads out and becomes a part of what I have included in the Salt Lake Valley, is about twenty-six miles, and its average width fully fifteen miles. This gives nearly four hundred square miles as its area, which may appear small to those who have read the glowing descrip- tions of it. Lieutenant Beckwith gives thirty miles as its length, and twenty as its width; but he counts from Utah Lake and includes the mountain slopes, while I confine my estimate to the valley plains, four- fifths of which can be irrigated; and [ also exclude from the calculation that part of the lake shore bordering the river, which I have included in the former section. The direct length, by Government survey, from the base line which runs near the north side of the city to the southern line of Salt Lake County, which crosses near the canon, is just twenty-four miles.* ‘The greater part of this beantiful valley can be irrigated, and I estimate its cultivable area at four-fifths, or about three hundred square miles. Most of the tributaries of the Jordan enter it from the east side, and south of the creek that waters the city the only ones of any importance are Mill, Big Cottonwood, Little Cottonwood, and Willow Creeks. Ditches have recently been made along the eastern border of the valley, drawing the water from Cottonwood Creeks near the mountain and carrying it on the plateau that occupies a considerable area on this side of the river. This effort has clearly demonstrated the possibility and practicability of irrigating nearly every acre on the east side of the river, north of Willow Creek. Although but little of this plateau or higher level has been tilled, yet the primary canals and a number of the smaller ditches are already made, and when I passed through the valley in September last were filled with running water. In the vicinity of Willow Creek there is a small area of slightly rolling Jand, which probably cannot be irrigated from any of the streams, not because of its elevation, but because this creek does not furnish suf ficient water. Ifit is possible to establish reservoirs along the base of the mountain there will be no necessity for even this remaining idle. _An extensive canal is now in course of construction fer the purpose of irrigating the great body of land on the west side of the river. Start- ing within the canon, and but a few feet below the level of Utah Lake, , the intention is to carry the water from the Jordan along the base of the Oquirrh Mountains, at as high a level as possible. This will furnish * The table of distances given in Stansbury’s Report, p. 29, makes the distance from the State House to the summit of the hill at the cation twenty-five miles, which is the correct road measure. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 241 water enough to irrigate the larger portion of the lands on this side; but the fall is not sutticient to reach the higher margins of the sloping lain. : E When these works are completed and the fresh water from Utah Lake has permeated the soil for a few years, this valley, seen from some neighboring height, will truly appear as one vast garden. The soil of the flat lands around the city, when the Mormons first settled it, was so thoroughly saturated with saline matter that for several years there were considerable areas upon which they could get no crops to grow. But at length by experience they learned that by sowing it in herd-grass and irrigating it freely it could be rendered suitable for the culture of other crops. And Mr. R. L. Campbell, who was for some years secretary, and is now, I believe, president of the Agricultural and Manufacturing Society, informs me that lands which were heretofore rejected on this account are now being rapidly occupied for farms. It is impossible to give the exact number of acres that have been irri- gated in this valley, as no returns, so far as I could ascertain, have been made since 1867. Omitting from the estimate the lands that may be reached by the Jordan Canal, which is not completed, I suppose the number at present amounts at least to twenty thousand or twenty-five thousand acres. Perhaps, before passing to the Utah basin, it would be best to include the Tooele and Lone Rock Valleys, as they properly belong to this group of arable tracts. The Tooele Valley is about sixteen miles long and ten miles wide, and is probably the most fertile spot in the Territory. The small streams that run through it afford sufficient water to irrigate the greater part. of its area, and therefore I estimate its agricultural lands at one hundred and sixty square miles, or the full extent of the valley surface. The soil appears to be peculiarly adapted to the growth of the cereals, it being no uncommon thing to cut from sixty to seventy bushels of oats from an acre, and last year one field of ninety acres averaged sixty bushels to the acre. It is already pretty well settled up, having one woolen manufactory and five grist-mills, and some fourteen or fifteen thousand acres irrigated. Lone Rock or Spring Valley, which lies at the southwest corner of Salt Lake, does not appear to have attracted much attention, and is not so well known as the others in this region, probably, on account of its locality. Itis about twenty miles long and from eight to ten miles wide, and, with the exception of its northern end, is well grassed over and affords excellent grazing fields. A small area can be irrigated and brought under cultivation around the southwest margin, but the central portion is watered principally by springs, which render the surface marshy in places. Ditching through the marshy parts would probably draw off sufficient water to leave the ground firm and suitable for graz- ing and, perhaps, for culture. ‘The northern portion, as it approaches the lake, assumes a more barren appearance, and in some places is frosted over with saline incrustations, while the southern end is much like Tintic Valley. UTAH LAKE VALLEY. - Passing southward over the ridge at the upper end of the Jordan Valley, we enter the Utah Lake Basin. The principal portion of the arable lands of this basin or valley stretch along the eastern shore of the lake, extending back from its margin to the foot of the mountains, 16 6G 242 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. which here descend abruptly to the plains. The length of this semicir- cular belt, from the exit of the Jordan to Santaguin, is about fifty miles, | with an average width of six. This entire area of three hundred square miles can be irrigated, the numerous streams that rush down from the mountain canons affording sufficient water to irrigate not only the lower bottoms, but also the broad elevated plateau that extends from Battle Creek to Provo River.* For a long time this plateau was supposed to be beyond the reach of any of the streams in the vicinity, and was con- signed to inutility, but a little energy has recently shown that this was a mistake. A canal, commencing some distance up Provo Cafion, has been constructed along the steep mountain slopes, and now brings the water from Provo River to the highest point of this elevated plain, and when I passed through here the secondary ditches were filled with water, spreading here and there large pools over the dry plains. Although I saw but one field in cultivation, farms were being marked off and prep- arations made for cultivating the soil. And I believe that this onee rejected plat will prove the best wheat-growing tract in the valley of Utah Lake, and that ere long it will be ‘dotted over with farm: houses and fields of golden grain. The following is a list of the streams that run down from the moun- tain and cross this shore-strip, given in the order in which they come, beginning at the north end of the lake. Dry Creek, American Fork, Battle Creek, Provo River, Spring Creek, Hobble Creek, Spanish Fork, and Petenete Creek; Summit Creek, which crosses the road south of the lake, is a tributary of the Petenete. These streams are bordered by no valleys or bottoms within the mountains, for, with the exception of Provo River, they do not reach beyond the first range, but rushing down its slope enter suddenly upon the plain and sweep across it to the lake. The soil is generally very fertile, that along the margin of the lake having a large proportion of vegetable mold mixed with it; that near the mountain and on the plateau is intermingled with small boulders, but not to such a degree as to injure it. From Battle Creek north, and from Provo River south, it is pretty well settled and most of the choice bottom lands occupied, but there is a broad strip along the lake margin not cultivated but used as meadow land to graze the cattle belonging to the citizens of the little villages located on the creeks. Including Tintic and Cedar Valleys there are at least twenty-five thousand acres of irrigated land in Utah County, and even this estimate may fall con- siderably below the true figures, for if the canal cut from the Provo is of sufficient capacity to water the whole surface of the plateau, this alone would amount to over twenty thousand acres, and would increase my estimate to thirty-five thousand, as I include but ten thousand in the first figures. Tintic Valley, which lies southwest of Utah Lake, is a narrow, bay- like indentation in the range of hills or low mountains that sweeps around the west side of the basin. It is about twenty-five miles long north and south, and four or five miles wide, and is watered principally by springs. As there are very few streams from which water can be érawn to irrigate the soil, a small portion only of the land can be brought under culture, but as a grazing section it probably stands next to the ‘Cache Valley. The grass grows luxuriantly and is kept fresh and nu- tritious by the water from the numerous springs, and the comparatively mild climate prevents the necessity of winter feeding or shelter, as some- times required in the north part of the Territory. “This stream was formerly called the Timpanogas, and this is ; the name generally — found on the maps and in public documents. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 243 Cedar Valley lies west of the lake, behind the range of hills that here rises up near the shore, and is about thirty miles long from north to south, and averages ten miles in width, and contains perhaps one hun- dred and fifty square miles of land that can be cultivated. It is watered by two small streams that run in from the west and northwest, and which afford sutficient water to irrigate the northern and western por- tions, especially around Crittenden and Cedar City. The land is good and productive. The valley is partially settled, and there are already two saw-mills and one flouring-mill in operation here. 1 did not have an opportunity of visiting this locality, but obtained my information from citizens of Provo, who are well acquainted with it. I neglected to inquire about its water drainage, and am somewhat in doubt respecting it. If there is any outlet for it to the lake, I failed to see it, and I am satisfied there is none to the Jordan, therefore I presume itisa separate basin, but as it may belong to the Utah basin, I have considered it in connection with that system. It has a greater elevation than the Utah Valley, but how much I do not know. Moving southward from Santaguin, we enter the Juab Valley, which extends from this point to the divide between Utah and Sevier basins, a Short distance below Nephi. It is about fifty miles long and six miles wide, and contains one hundred square miles of land that can be irrigated, principally along Salt and Clover Creeks. The most of the remainder is well grassed over, and affords good pasture lands for sheep and cattle. Reserving a fuller account of the productions of the Salt Lake, Jordan, and Utah Valleys, until I have completed the description of the district, I will only remark that everything that can be raised in the Middle States can be raised here, and that these sections bear about the same relations to the colder regions of the elevated mountain districts and southern borders of our Territory that the Middle States do to New England and Georgia. Without detracting anything from the importance of the arable tracts and grazing fields along the railroad line east of this in Wyoming, I may truly call this basin, with all its drawbacks, (for it has some,) an oasis on the great continental highway of trade and travel. Possessing this advantage of situation, surrounded by mountains rich in the pre- cious metals, and having a healthy climate, it must, in the course of a few years, become densely populated. It is important, therefore, that the Government should give all proper encouragement to its develop- ment. I make these remarks here, because they are more particularly applicable to the immediate basin of Salt Lake than to the rest of the Territory, being the portion through which the railroad passes. The general level of the Salt Lake Valley is about four thousand three hundred feet above the sea level, and that of Utah Lake Valley between nee thousand five hundred and fifty and four thousand six hundred Cetae In the mountains east of the Jordan are three little parks or elevated valleys, Parley’s Park, Kamas Valley, and Round Prairie, which be- long to the basin under consideration. Parley’s Park is elevated about two thousand feet above Salt Lake, and is some five or six miles long and from two to three miles wide. It is watered by Cafion Creek, and could be easily irrigated, but on account of its elevation and mountain- * In the barometric table accompanying Lieutenant Beckwith’s Report of Pacific Rail- road Survey, vol. ii, part 1, p. 107, there are some errors, provably typographical. For instance, the elevation at Provo is given as 4,362.6, when it certainly is at least two hundred feet more. 244 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ous surroundings, it is too cold for any except the hardier productions. The recent discovery of some mines in the mountains around it, how- ever, may bring it into notice. Kamas Valley, which is similar to Parley’s Park, is about ten miles long and from two to four miles wide, and can also be irrigated. Both are well grassed and afford good grazing fields, but, on account of the difficulty in reaching them, and their small size, will not be of much value in an agricultural point of view. I know nothing in regard to Round Prairie. RUSH VALLEY. This valley appears to be a small isolated basin, having a distinct water system of its own; Rush Lake, which lies in the north part, being the reservoir. It is about forty or fifty miles in length from north to south, and averages fifteen miles in width, a large portion of which can be irrigated, and which I have estimated at three hundred square miles. Clover Creek, which flows into Rush Lake, is a stream of considerable size, and affords sufficient water, not only to irrigate a large extent of land, but also power to drive machinery. The lake is about eight miles long and some three or four miles wide. Some mines recently discov- ered at the north end of this valley will, if they prove productive, fur- nish a market for the farm products. Stockton, at the north end of the lake, is a village of considerable size. The farms in this locality are irrigated from a “stream that runs from the mountains near by and empties into the lake. SEVIER RIVER BASIN. This comprises the country drained by the Sevier River and its trib- utaries. This river, rising in the southwest corner of the Territory, runs a little east of north between two ranges of the Wahsatch Mountains for one hundred and fifty or one hundred and sixty miles, where it breaks through the western ridge and runs southwest for forty or fifty miles more, and empties into Sevier Lake. Its principal tributaries are the San Pete River and Meadow Creek. The former, rising a little south of Mount Nebo, runs southwest through the San Pete Valley and joins the Sevier River near the crossing of the 112th meridian and 39th parallel. The latter commences in the divide south of Rush Valley, and traverses the plains west of the mountains, uniting at the bend. Very little ap- pears to be known in regard to Sevier Lake, at least I have been unable to ascertain anything of importance respecting it or the lower portion of the river. The very irregular form of this basin and uncertainty in regard to its western rim make it impossible for me to give an esti- mate of its area that will amount to anything more than a mere guess. The San Pete Valley, which is watered by the San Pete River and numerous small tributaries, counting from Fountain Green to Gunnison, is forty-four miles long and averages fully five miles in width. At least two hrndred square miles, or nearly the entire surface area of this beauti- ful and fertile valley, can be irrigated. The returns of the Agricultural and Manufacturing Society for "186667 give nearly twenty thousand acres as the number then under irrigation; the past three years have increased this futly twenty-five per cent., so that we may safely estimate the number now irrigatedat twenty-five thousand. This valley, as a wheat- -growing section, stands next to Cache, its soil being peculiarly adapted to the production of this cereal. Itis also one of the best potato regions in the Territory.. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 245 Its altitude averages about five thousand feet above the level of the sea, the elevation at the mouth of San Pete River being four thousand nine hundred and sixty feet. The Sevier River Valley is a long narrow belt lying between two wings of the Wahsatch range, and extending northwest and northeast one hundred and ten or one hundred and fifteen miles. I know but little respecting the agricultural features of the upper portion of this valley, but presume, judging from what I know of the surrounding regions, that it is well grassed and well watered, so that all spots of arable land to be found there can be irrigated. I think it probable that some timber can be found in this part of the valley, although the lower portions are very naked. For about fifty or sixty miles above Gunnison it averages some six or seven miles wide, but is wholly without timber, and has a very barren appearance; even the artemisia being scattered and stunted. The river channel is generally a deep, ditch- like cleft in the soil, some six or eight feet below the surface of the plain, its immediate bottoms being very narrow. With the considerable fall in the stream a great portion of the valley can be irrigated, and, notwithstanding the present barren appear- ance, after a few years’ irrigation, will become qyite fertile, and produce good crops of wheat, oats, potatoes, &e. There are some settlements in the north part of the valley, and a few thousand acres under cultivation in Sevier and Piute Counties, which embrace this valley. What the number of acres irrigated is I cannot say. The elevation ranges from five thousand five hundred to four thou- sand eight hundred feet above the level of the sea, and the volume . of water in the river is ample for all purposes. From Gunnison to Chicken Creek, a distance of forty miles, the valley of this River aver- ages some three or four miles wide, and is similar in character to that farther south. Leaving the Sevier, and following the road over the ridge to the southwest, we enter an isolated basin called Round or Lake Valley, which appears to have little or no connection with the water systems of the Sevier basin. This is some ten or twelve miles long and six or seven wide, but for want of water only a limited portion of it can be irrigated and brought under culture. There is probably sufficient to supply a strip of ‘about a mile and a half in width. And there are some small grazing fields dhhere. Passing westward out of this valley we enter upon the margin of the plains, which spread out with a gentle slope to the northwest. The little streams that run down from the mountains and pass off into the plains afford a belt of arable. spots _along the foot of the range, concerning which I obtained the following particulars from Bishop Miller, of Provo: Going south from the latter point, after passing for some ten miles over the divide, we reach a little stream where there is a small settle- ment and a small extent of arable land that can be irrigated, and an area ten or twelve miles long and four or five wide, suitable for grazing sheep or cattle. Passing over a dry level plain for about eight miles farther, we reach Chalk Creek, which affords a valley eight or ten miles long and about two miles wide, the greater part of which can be irri- gated. Crossing another dry level of about four miles we reach Meadow Creek,* which has but little bottom land adapted to agriculture, and not sufficient water to irrigate more than a few hundred acres. But it * This is a different stream from the Meadow Creek heretofore mentioned as coming down from near Rush Valley. ) 246 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. is probable that a ditch could be brought round from Chalk Creek, by which a considerable area of the upper level might be rendered tillable. * Corn Creek, which is about five miles farther south, is flanked by a moderately broad area of flat land, which can be irrigated to the full extent of the supply of water. Cove Creek Valley, ten or twelve miles farther on, furnishes but little farming land, but contains some good grazing fields, and is already occupied, to a considerable extent, for this purpose. Five or six miles south of this is another small stream (probably Pine Creek,) where sufficient land for a few farms might be irrigated. Passing over a divide of some nine or ten miles we reach Indian Creek, a tributary of Beaver River, which brings us into another basin. Although there are two stage routes through this section, there seems to be but little Known respecting its water system; in fact, the very existence of Preuss Lake appears to be a matter of doubt, and future investigation may show that this is but a part of Sevier River Basin. Considering it as a separate system, it consists of Bear River and its tributaries, which rise in the western slope of the range of mountains before mentioned. There is a considerable area of land on Beaver River that can be irri- gated and cultivated, and the probability is that its breadth might be increased by extending canals on the upper levels below the mountain or ridge that crosses “here. Passing over Beaver Mountain we reach Yellow Creek, where there is a fertile belt about ten miles long and six or seven miles wide, reaching from the Creek about two miles south of Parawan. Here, and at Beaver River, are some settlements and some land already under cultivation. Between Parawan and Cedar City there are a few arable ‘spots of small extent, which are already partly occupied. Cedar City is situated on Cole Creek, a stream about the size of the American Fork, which will irrigate some four or five th8usand acres. Shirt’s Creek, which runs by Kanara, is flanked by a considerable bottom, but the stream does not afford water suflicient to irrigate but a part of it. West of this some twenty or twenty-five miles, on another branch of Beaver River, are the celebrated Vegas de Santa Clara, noted as a resting place after the fatigues of the desert march from the West. By following these various streams, as they move northwest toward some common reservoir, it is probable a num- ber of irrigable spots may be found. Crossing over the divide, which here sweeps round in a semicircular form from a southwest to a northwest direction, we enter the valley of the Rio Virgin, a part of the vast territory drained by the Rio Colo- rado of the West. This stream, although sending down a considerable volume of water, is wide and rapid and consequently shallow. It runs through a country having a very barren appearance, here and there cutting through rocky clitts and lava ridges, with occasional broad stretches of sandy land covered with a very scanty growth of. vegeta- tion. But, notwithstanding the unpromising appearance of this sec- tion, there are several settlements here, some of which (as Washington and St. George) number several thousand souls. There are some arable spots which are very productive, and in fact *All the maps I have seen, including even the very accurate map of Colorado and Utah, prepared by order of General ‘Sherman, have an error in this section. They have a number of small streams represented as rising in the plains west of the moun- tains opposite Sevier River and running through the range to the River, to do which it would be necessary for the water to run up hill. They rise in the range, and, run- ning northwest into the plain, are lost in the sands, as all who kave traveled along the stage route here know, and as Frémont shows in his report. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 247 wherever water can be obtained, and the land irrigated, the soil becomes very fertile. The arable areas around Toqueville, and from there up the river, are very limited, but about Washington and St. George they are more extensive, and the entire Santa Clara Valley, for fifteen or twenty milesin length and two or three miles in width, can be cultivated. And one or two canals are being cut along the Rio Virgin which will add con- siderably to the cultivable area. This section, on account of its semi- tropical climate, is considered by the Mormons of great importance, for they look to this for their supply of cotton, raisins, oranges, and other products, which cannot be grown in the Salt Lake Valley. In regard to the vast region east of the Wahsatch range, and south of the Uintah Mountains belonging to the Rio Colorado district, I know but very little. . Strawberry Creek, a tributary of Uintah River, runs through a very pretty valley for twenty or twenty-five miles, which averages seven or eight miles in width. The greater portion of this area can be irrigated, and would produce good crops of such things as are adapted to the climate, which, on account of elevation and the proximity of mountains, is cold. The Uintah Valley is more extensive, and has in it some very good land, a large portion of which may be rendered suitable for culture by irrigation, for which purpose the supply of water is ample. CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. Within the Territory of Utah every grade of climate, from the cold regions of the snowy Sierras to the semi-tropical region of the south- ern plains, is to be found, but the central portion, where the greater part of the cultivable land is situated, has a mild climate, which, as before remarked, corresponds very nearly with that of the Middle States. As we go north and northeast, ascending the mountain valleys, the climate increases rapidly in severity, and the growing seasons become shorter. As a general thing the annual fall of snow in the valleys is small, seldom more than a few inches in depth, and it remains on the ground but few hours, or days at farthest. In the vicinity of the higher mountains there are occasional frosts that injure the crops. Wheat, oats, potatoes, and fruit are the principal productions, which not only grow readily and yield abundant crops, but of the very best quality, the soil being naturally adapted to their culture. Something over one million bushels of wheat was raised in the Territory in 1866, but what the ratio of increase has been since that time I am unable to say, but it has not been in proportion to the breadth of land sown, as the grasshoppers have been very destructive for the past three years. Not only have they injured the growing wheat, oats, &c., but, where the ground has been replanted in something else, they have, in some in- stances, cut it down for the sixth time in one season. The average yield per acre, of favorable seasons, is from twenty-two to twenty-six busheis, but in certain localities it will reach much higher figures. Cache, San Pete, and Utah Counties are the principal wheat-growing sections, not because they produce more to the acre, but because more acres have been cultivated in this cereal in these counties than any others. I did not have an opportunity of examining carefully the differ- ent specimens of wheat grown in the Territory, but, judging by the bread made from it, I presume it to be superior in some respects. It is probable that the flavor and lightness of the bread are partly due to the alkali with which the soil of the valleys is more or less impregnated. As is generally the case throughout the Rocky Mountain regions, oats 248 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. grow luxuriantly, the average yield per acre in the Territory being faa thirty to forty bushels. It is no uncommon occurrence for the farmer here to cut an average crop of sixty bushels to the acre. Although a large amount of corn is raised, and crops of forty and fifty pasha to the acre produced, yet this cannot be considered a good corn-growing country. And I may add that, so far as my observations have extended, I have seen no really good corn section west of the rain-moistened por- tion of the Mississippi Valley. That there are many places where toler- ably good crops can be raised, and sufficient to supply local demands, is true, but what I mean is that the corn of these Territories bears no such comparison with the corn of the Mississippi Valley as the wheat does. Sorghum appears to grow finely, and, as I have heretofore stated in regard to beets, I 4m inclined to the belief that in this dry soil, consist- ing principally of silicates, and containing alkali, the production of. saccharine matter will be greater than in soil having a large proportion of vegetable mold. And in this connection I may remark that the plums grown here are the sweetest I ever tasted. The same variety raised in California, although sweeter than those raised in the States east, are inferior in this respect to those raised at Salt Lake City. But in regard to pears the case is somewhat reversed as compared with Cali- fornia, but not as compared with those of the States east of the mountains, The same thing is traceable in apples but not in peaches. Such fruits as apples, peaches, plums, pears, currants, gooseberries, grapes, &c., can be raised in Salt Lake basin and south with ease, but apples and peaches, especially the latter, will be the chief horticultural product. The average yield of peaches to the acre, as shown by the re- turns, is over three hundred bushels. Last year a gentleman in Provo” City gathered three hundred bushels from the trees on a lot twelve rods long by six rods wide. For the past three years the fruit has been se- riously injured by the grasshoppers eating off the leaves of the trees, but the injury was probably less than it would have been in a section depending on rain to supply the requisite moisture. As a grape-growing region this Territory cannot compete with Cali- fornia or even with Southern New Mexico, yet very fine grapes can be raised, and the Rio Virgin section ean produce a quality equal to any part of the latter, but the area is limited. The potatoes are as fine in quality as any I have ever met with; they also grow large, and yield heavy crops. I noticed a number of fields of lucerne, which j is used to feed the cat- tle of the villages when the pasturage in the vicinity proves insufficient. Very few of the valleys, except those in the mountains, furnish any timber of importance, but, as a general thing, a supply can be obtained from the neighboring ranges, chiefly pine and fir. PASTORAL LANDS AND STOCK-RAISING. It is apparent to every one who has paid any attention to the supply of beef-cattle for the principal markets of our country, that this must come from the grazing fields of the West. Having recently traveled by different routes over the States between the Atlantic shore and Mis- souri River, I have been astonished to find so few beef-cattle upon the meadows. No doubt. the census returns will show heavy figures, yet these are not made up from herds fed for beef, but mostly from the eat- tle and oxen in use upon the farms. The lands of the States are becom- ing too valuable to afford the room required for grazing cattle at a price that will compete with the plains of the West and Southwest. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 249 Tt is therefore a fact conceded that the great bulk of our beef-cattle must be raised upon the grazing fields of the States and Territories west of the Mississippi. As this report would be incomplete without some remarks upon this subject, and as experience in the Territories is requisite to an accurate knowledge of it, I give the following remarks taken principally from the article of Dr. Latham of Laramie, and published in the Omaha Herald. prefacing them with some judicious remarks from the pen of Mr. Byers in the Rocky Mountain News: After the mining interest, which must always take rank as the first productive industry in the mountain territories of the West, stock-raising will doubtless con- tinue next in importance. The peculiarities of climate and soil adapt the grass-covered country west of the ninety-eighth degree of longitude especially to the growth and highest perfection of horses, cattle, and sheep. The earliest civilized explorers found the plains densely populated with buffalo, elk, deer, and antelope, their numbers exceeding computation. Great nations of Indians subsisted almost entirely by the fruits of the chase, but with the rude weapons used were incapable of diminishing their numbers. With the advent of the white man and the introduction of fire-arms, and to supply the demands of commerce, these wild cattle have been slaughtered by the million, until their range, once six hundred miles wide from east to west, and extending more than two thousand miles north and south, over which they moved in solid columns, darkening the plains, has been diminished to an irregular belt, a hun- dred and fifty miles wide, in which only scattering herds can be found, and they seldom numbering ten thousand animals. There is no reason why domestic cattle may not take their place. The climate, soil, and vegetation, are as well adapted to the tame As to the wild. The latter lived and thrived the year round all the way up to latitude fifty degrees north. Twenty years’ experience proves that the former do equally well upon the same range, and with the same lack of care. Time, the settlement of the country, the growing wauts of agriculture, the encroachment of tilled fields, will gradually nar- row the range, as did semi-civilization that of the buffalo; first from the Mississippi Valley westward, where that process is already seen, and then from the Rocky Moun- tains toward the east; but as yet the range is practically unlimited, and for many years to come there Will be room to fatten beeves to feed the world. This great pasture land covers Western Texas, Indian Territory, Kansas, Nebraska, and Dakota, Eastern New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana, and extends far into British America. The southerly and southeasterly portions produce the largest growth of grass, but it lacks the nutritious qualities of that covering the higher and drier lands farther north and west. Rank-growing and bottom-land grasses contain mostly water; they remain green until killed by frost, when their substance flows back to the root, or is destroyed by the action of the elements. The dwarf grass of the higher plains makes but a small growth, but makes that very quickly in the early spring, and then, as the rains diminish and the summer heat increases, it dies and cures into hay where it stands; the seed even, in which it is very prolific, remains upon the stalk, and, though very minute, is exceedingly nutritious. In so far as the relative advantages of different portions of this wide region may be thought by many to preponderate over one another, we do not appreciate them at all, but would as soon risk a herd in the valley of the Upper Missouri, the Yellowstone, or the Saskatchewan, as along the Arkansas, the Canadian, or Red River. . If any differ- ence, the grass is better north than south. One year the winter may be more severe in the extreme north; the next it may be equally so in the south, and the third it may be most inclement midway between the two extremes; or, what is more common, the severe storms and heavy snows may follow irregular streaks across the country at vari- ous points. There are local causes and effects to be considered, such as permanently affect certain localities favorably or the contrary. For instance, nearer the western border of the plains there is less high wind, because the lofty mountain ranges form a shelter or wind-breaker. Of local advantages, detached ranges of mountains, hills or broken land, timber, brush, and deep ravines or stream-beds are the most important, in supniatine shelter, and, as a general thing, better and always more varied pasture ground. There is never rain upon the middle and northern plains during the winter months. When snow comes it is always dry, and never freezes to stock. The reverse is the case in the Northern and Middle States, where winter storms often begin with rain, which is followed by snow, and conclude with piercing wind and exceeding cold. Stock-men can readily appreciate the effect of such weather upon stock exposed to its influence. The soil of the plains is very much the same everywhere. To a casual observer it looks sterile and unpromising, but when turned by the plow or spade is found very fer- tile. Near the mountains it 1s filled with coarse rock particles, and under the action of 250 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. the elements these become disproportionately prominent on the surface. Receding from the mountains, it becomes gradually finer, until gravel and bits of broken stone are no longer seen. Being made up from the wash and wearing away of the mountains, alka- line earths enter largely into its composition, supplying inexhaustible quantities of those properties which the eastern farmer can secure only by the application of plaster, lime, and like manures. These make the rich, nutritious grasses upon which cattle thrive so remarkably and to the constant wonder of new-comers, who cannot reconcile the idea of such comparatively bare and barren-looking plains with the fat cattle that roam over them. Besides the plains there is a vast extent of pasture lands in the mountains. Wher- ever there is soil enough to support vegetation grass is found in abundance, to a line far above the limit of timber growth, and almost to the crest of the snowy range. These high pastures, however, are suitable only for summer and autumn range; but in portions of the great parks and large valleys, most parts of which lie below eight thousand feet altitude above the sea, “cattle, horses, and sheep live and thrive the year round. The cost of raising a steer to the age of five years, when he is at a prime age for market, is believed to be about seven dollars and a half, or one dollar and a half per year. ’A number of estimates given us by stock-men, running through several years, place the average at about that figure. That contemplates a herd of four hundred or more. Smaller lots of cattle will generally cost relatively more. The items of expense are herding, branding, and salt—nothing for feed. The following extracts from an article by Dr. H. Latham, in the Omaha Daily Herald of June 5, 1870, give a description of the grazing lands in the North Platte district: The distance from the mouth of the North Platte, where it joins the South Platte on the-Union Pacific Railroad, to its sources in the great Sierra Madre, whose lofty sides form the North Park, in which this stream takes its rise, is more than eight hundred miles. Its extreme southern tributaries head in the gorges of the mountains one hundred miles south of the railroad, and receive their water from the melting snows of these snow-capped ranges. Its extreme western tributaties rise in the Wahsatch and Wind River ranges, sharing the honor of conveying the crystal snow-waters from the continental divide with the Columbia and Colorado of the Pacific. Its northern’ tributaries start oceanward from the Big Horn Mountains, three hundred miles north of the starting point of its southern sources. It drains a country larger than all New England and New York together. East of the Alleghany Mountains there is no. river comparable to this clear, ‘swift mountain stream in its length or in the extent of country it drains. The valleys of the North Platte—The main valley of the North Platte, two hundred miles from its mouth to where it debouches through the Black Hills out on to the great plains, is an average of ten miles wide. Nearly all this area, two thousand square miles, is covered with a dense growth of grass, yielding thousands of tons of hay. The bluffs bordering these intervals are rounded and grass-grown, gradually smoothing out into great grassy plains extending north and south as far as the eye can see. Its tributaries.—The tributaries on the north side of the Platte are Blue Water, Cold- water, Hill Creek, Raw Hide, Muddy Willow, Shawnee, Slate, and Sweetwater. On the south they are Ash, Pumpkin, Larrons, Dry Horse, Cherry, Chugwater, Sybellie, Big Laramie, Little Laramie, Carter, Cottonwood, Horse Shoe, Elk Horn, Rio a la Prelo, Boisiee, Deer Creek, Medicine Bow, "Rock Creek, Douglass, and North, South, and Mia- dle Forks of the main Platte. These streams, with their smaller feeders, intersect in all directions a great pastural land, interspersing it with rich, fertile valleys, and draining at least forty million acres, affording water for countless herds. Most of the banks of these streams are bordered with timber. Cattle have been wintered on these streams north of Cheyenne, along the base of the Black Hills, around Fort Laramie, for twenty-five years. Capacity for stock- raising. —Of this country Alexander Majors says, in a letter to the writer of this article: “The favorite wintering grounds of my herders for the past twenty years has been from the Caché a la Poudre on the south to Fort Fetterman on the north, embracing all the country along the eastern base of the Black Hills.” It was of this country that Mr. Seth E. Ward spoke when he says: “I am satisfied that no country in the same latitude, or even far south of it, is comparable to it as a graz- ing and stock-raising country. Cattle and stock generally are healthy, and require no feeding the year round, the rich ‘bunch’ and ‘gramma’ grasses of the plains and mountains keeping them ordinarily fat enough for beef during the entire winter.” All this region east of the Black Hills is at an elevation less than five thousand feet. The climate.—The climate, as reported from Fort Laramie for a period of twenty GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 251 years, is 50° Fahrenheit. The mean temperature for the spring months is 47°, for the summer months 72°, for autumn 0°, for winter 31°. The annual rain-fall is about eighteen inches, distributed as follows: Spring, 8.69 inches; summer, 5.70 inches; autumn, 3.69 inches. The snow-fall is eighteen inches. It is of this region that Colonel C. H. Alden, post surgeon Fort D. A. Russell, speaks, when he says: “The largest snow-fall so far, in one month, has been 3 97-1000 inches. The snow in this vicinity rapidly disappears after falling, and it is very rare that there is a sufficient quantity so that it remains long enough to give sleighing.” All this country of the North Platte, east of the Black Hills, is within easy distance of the railroad at Cheyenne, Pine Blufis, Sidney, and Julesburg. An abundance of timber can be had in the Black Hills for fencing and building purposes for all ranca and stock men in any of these valleys. Extent and resources of the North Platte Basin.—There is in this North Platte Basin, east of the Black Hills divide, at least eight million acres of pasturage, with the finest and most lasting streams, and good shelter in the bluffs and cations. As*I have said before, we can only judge of the extent and resources of such a single region by com- parison. Ohio has six million sheep, yielding eighteen million pounds of wool, bring- ing her farmers an aggregate of four and one-half million dollars. This eight million acres of pasture would at least feed eight million sheep, yielding twenty-four million pounds of wool, and at the same price as Ohio wool, six million dollars. Now, that money, instead of going to build up ranches, stock farms, storehouses, wooden mills, and all the components of a great and thrifty settlement, is sent by our wool-growers and woollen manufacturers to Buenos Ayres, to Africa and Australia, to enrich other people and other lands, while our wool-growing resources remain undeveloped. The great Laramie Plains—As you follow the North Platte up through the Black Hill Cation you come out on to the great Laramie Plains, which lie between the Black Hills on the east and the Snowy Range on the west. These plains are ninety miles north and south and sixty miles east and west. They are watered by the Big and Little Laramie Rivers, Deer Creek, Rock Creek, Medicine Bow River, Cooper Creek, and other tributuries of the North Platte. It is on the extreme northern portion of these plains, in the valley of Deer Creek, that General Reynolds wintered curing the winter of 1860, and of which he remarks, on pages seventy-four and seventy-five of his “Explorations of the Yellowstone,” as follows: General Reynolds’s Report.—Throughout the whole season’s march the subsistence of our animals had been obtained by grazing after we had reached our camp in the after- noon, and for an hour or two between the dawn of day and our time of starting. The consequence was, that when we reached our winter quarters there were but few animals in the train that were in a condition to have continued the march without a generous grain diet. Poorer and more broken-down creatures it would be difficult to find. In the spring they were in as fine condition for commencing another season’s work as could be desired. d for some months:) Face yellow, dotted with red; lateral 270 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. carine rosaceous; on the top of the head a faint roseate stripe runs from the end of the cone to the pronotum, bordered on each side by a yellow stripe; from the lower part of each eye starts a bright-red stripe, which, running back across the head, continues along the upper portion of the side of the pronotum to its extremity and is lost on the elytra. Median carina of the pronotum red, the dorsal spaces yellow; lower portion of the sides yellow. Elytra semi-transparent; base and stripe along the dorsal margin roseate. Wings transparent; veins ochreous. Abdomen dull yellow, reddish on the basal segments. Legs rufous; posterior femora have a pale stripe along the upper edge; spines of the posterior tibia tipped with black. Dimensions: Length 1.62 inch; to tip of elytra 1.50 inch; to ex- tremity of the pronotum, .52 inch; femora, .88 inch; tibia, .86 inch. Habitat: Northeast New Mexico. T have not seen the male. This species comes near O. mexicana, (Sauss.,) but differs from it in the following respects: The antenne are not rotundate, but sharply triquetrous; the pronotum is earinate, al- though the carine are but raised lines, yet very distinct; and although the posterior lobe is minutely punctured, the pronotum cannot be truly called ‘densely punctate.” It approaches closely to Truxalis. (Mucronati.) PEZOTETTIX, (BURM.) P. picta, Thos. Syn., P. picta, Thos.. (Proe. Acad. Nat. Sei., Phila.,- 1870, p. 78.)—Medium size, body elongate, stout sub-cylindrical, occiput convex; vertex deflexed, flat and narrow between the eyes, suddenly expanding in front, this advanced portion transverse and triangular; the frontal ridge somewhat convex, with a very slight depression at the central ocellus; eyes large, prominent, oval; antenne filiform, nearly as long as the head and thorax. Sides of the pronotum parallel in the male, and very slightly divergent posteriorly in the female; caring obliterated by the sub-cylindrical form; posterior margins of the sides obliquely sloped, but not sinuous; posterior angle rounded; a slight transverse incision each side close to the front margin; the three usual transverse incisions distinct. crossing the dorsum in the female, the posterior one only crossing in the male; anterior margin and posterior lobe densely pune- tate, remainder smoother and sparsely punctate. LElytra very small, oblong-ovate, reaching the tip of the second segment; not meeting on the back; nerves reticulate, prominent, wings minute. Posterior fem- ora stout, short, not reaching the extremity of the abdomen. Sub-anal plate of the male recurved with a kind of tubercle or prominence on the convex surface; upper plate faleate; cerci small. Prosternal spine stout, conical. in Color (siccus:) alternating rings of dark purple and white. The dark stripes are placed as follows: down the frontal ridge; on the occiput ; down each cheek; two interrupted broad stripes running obliquely upward and backward from the anterior margin and angle of the prono- ~tum; four spots on the base of each dorsal, and two on each ventral segment of the abdomen, (sometimes running into a continuous ring ;) posterior femora crossed by three broad bands. The nerves of the elytra white, the spaces black. Colors of the male and female the same. Dimensions: Female—length, 1.30 inch; femora, .6 inch; pronotum, 28 inch. Male—length, .95 to 1 inch; femora, .5 inch; pronotum, .26 inch. Sn GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Pah Habitat: From Cheynne south to Raton Mountains, on the plains and foothills at the eastern base of the range. When living this is a very pretty insect, the dark stripes being mar- gined by red, which fades when immersed in alcohol, the black also be- coming paler and assuming a purplish cast. This may possibly belong to Dact ylotum, Charp, but T am not fully acquainted with the characters of that genus. (Mutici.) BRACHYPEPLUS, (CHARP.) As Charpentier, at the time he established this genus, failed to give its characters, and the description of Girard is so short and deficient, I give, from a large number of cee what I conceive to be the dis- ting g ai ishing characteristics, Generic “characters: Body very robust, acridoid. Occiput broad, convex, smooth; vertex margined; frontal ridge broad, short, slightly suleate, expanding below ; lateral carine distinet, with a sulcus behind each; antennal foveolee deep, eblong; cheeks prominent. Pronotum large, elongate, tricarinate; carina distinct, continnous; widest below, expanding posteriorly, sides straight, generally chagrined above, with the sides glabrous; no transverse incisions on the dorsum; anterior margin rounded, extending slightly on the head; posterior margin round. Elytra and wings rudimentary, (in the known species.) Legs very robust; posterior ‘femora long as the abdomen, swollen; tibic strongly spined nearly the entire length. Antenne filiform, joints dis- tinet; long as the head and thorax. Sub-anal plate of the male tumid entire; cerci very short; female appendages stout, broad. Palpi short, joints all enlarged at the tip; the three outer joints of the maxillary palpi nearly equal, the ultimate a little the longest. Prosternum neither spined nor tuberculate. Abdomen somewhat compressed, carinated above. A well-marked and distinct genus. B. magnus, Girard. (Marey’s Expl. Red River of Lous., p. 260, Pl. XV, figs. 1-4.)—This ponderous species is easily recognized by the figures referred to, but the description is quite deficient; therefore, to aid future investigations, I give it more minutely. (Siccus.) Yellow, spotted with brown. Occiput convex, very slightly scabrous, an indistinct line running along the middle to the vertex, a few fine shallow punctures visible; the elevated margins of the vertex meet in about aright angle at the front; frontal ridge, although nar- row above and gradually expanding as it descends, is not narrowed opposite the antenne; margins distinct, obtuse; sulcus shallow, expand- ing and fading below, punctured. Pronotum with three distinct, con- tinuous piceous carine ; dorsum strongly chagrined, yellowish, with eene- ous luster; sometimes, especially in the females, there is a yellow hne along each margin of the dorsum; sides purplish at the upper angles, yellowish below. Hlytra ovate, reaching the third abdominal segment ; nerves longitudinal, slightly branching near the extremity; ight brown, spotted with black. Wings very small, yellow. Abdomen marked with a brown spot each side of each segment; each segment is also margined with a row of white dots. Legs as described by Girard. Dimensions: Length, (female,) 2 inches; pronetum, .55 inch; elytra, 3 inch; femora, 1.25 inch. Males about one-fourth less. Size varies considerably. . Habitat: From Fort Laramie south to Santa Fé. The green and brown varieties were both observed; but after being immer sed for some 272 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. time in alcohol these colors fade, and all distinctions between the two are lost. ry BOOPEDON, (THOS.) Generic characters: Has somewhat the appearance of Pezotettix. Body robust. Head large, exceeding the thorax in width, widest below ; seen from the side presents a somewhat semicircular outline, deflexed below; occiput convex; vertex sloping, broad, sometimes exhibiting a shallow foveola, usually rhomboidal, with a slight median carina; frontal ridge prominent, not suleate, margins obtuse and nearly parallel. An- tenne nearly as long as the head and thorax, inserted in deep, oblong foveole. Pronotum of medium length, sides parallel; subtruncate in front; posterior angle obtuse; three transverse incisions; the postericr about the middle, cutting the median carina; median carina distinet, bat not elevated; lateral carinze obsolete. Elytra shorter than the abdomen in the female, about the length of the abdetien in the male; inflated near the base, narrowed at the apex ; two longitudinal veins dividing the entire surface into three nearly equal fields. Posterior femora stout, narrowed at the tip, passing the abdomen ;- tibia spined, enlarged at the tip. Ultimate joint of the maxillary palpi enlarged at the end, truncate. Prosternum with the anterior half tumid; the latter half cleft by a longitudinal suleus. Pectus sub-convex or flat. Anal ap- pendages of the female short and obtuse ; sub-anal plate of the male keeled, trigonal, and turned up. This i is a very distinct genus, having a somewhat acridoid appearance, and forming, perhaps, the closest link between the Mucronati (Acridit genuint) and the Mutici, (or Odipodes,) and in a strictly natural arrange- ment should precede Lrachypeplus. It would connect between the Pezotettigi or Caloptent and the Stenobothri. B. nubilum, Thos. Syn., B. ngrum, Thos. (Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci., Phila., 1870, p. 83.) Gryllus nubilus, Say. (Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci., Phila., [V, 308. Entom. N. Am., Ed. Le Conte, I, 237.)—Having carefully examined the section where Mr. Say found his species, [ do not know what insect he refers to, unless this be the one. But when he remarks “that it ascends into the atmosphere in great numbers,” he certainly cannot aliude to this species, unless he refers to the short flig hts of the males as they poise themselves in the air, a well-known habit of the Oc. equalis, and some other species. There is another black species found in the same section, which flies much in the air, (Tomonotus Nietanus, Sauss.,) but its bright red wings, So apparent during flight, and its ample elytra, would seem to forbid the supposition that this was the species intended. Yet I cannot ex- plain Mr. Say’s remark, unless he has confounded the two. As his description is rather short I will add some other points, chiefly from my description, under the name of B. nigrum, in the Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci., Phila. Medium size, female much larger than the male. Female: Occiput smooth,a few punctures on the vertex, a faint median line visible; eyes about midway between the front and back margins ; frontal ridge convex, with a very slight indentation at the ocellus, pune- tured on the margins, reaching nearly to the cross suture, where it sud- denly expands; lateral carine distinct, obtuse, sinuate and divergent ; a deep sulcus below each eye. Pronotum nearly as broad as the head; median carina distinct, stra ight; posterior lobe punctate; central por. tions of the sides levigate: cross incisions one and two not reaching the. median carina. Blytra narrow, covering about two-thirds the length of GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 2h the abdomen, lanceolate; the two longitudinal veins strong, approaching each. other at the apex along the external margin; the reticulate veins coarse. Wings shorter than the elytra. Color (siccus): Dark ferruginous; lower angles of the face and side of the labrum black; tips of the elytra black; apex of the wings dusky, rest transparent ; two reddish spots inside the posterior femor a; tibia transparent red. Male: Similar in coloring, only darker. Elytra black, somewhat paler at the base; wings transparent, cloudy at the apex. Dimensions: Female—length, 1.5 inch; pronotum. 30 inch; elytra, .55 inch; femora, .95 inch ; tibia, 80 inch. ‘Male—length, 87 inch: ; prono- tum, .25 inch ; elytra, BD inch; femora, .62 inch; tibia, 06 inch. Habitat: Southern Colorado and northern New Mexico; mostly in the valleys near the mountains. {NorE.—I regret very much two mistakes that occur in my paper pub- lished in the Proceedings of the Acad. Nat. Sci., Phila., 1870, July. One occurs on page 80, where I have described as a new species, under the name Oe. pruinosa, Say’s Gryllus trifasciatus, which is notonly sufiiciently described for identification, but 1s also figured. The other mistake is on page 83, where I have described Gryllus nubilus of Say as a new species, under the name of B. nigrum. I had examined them and determined them, and laid them aside for the purpose of referring them to their proper genera and had marked the place in Say’s Ent. where they are described. Having to close up my article rapidly, preparatory to my departure west, forgetting these facts, and finding them among those examined and to be described, I proceeded to describe them without fur- ther examination. THE NATURALISTS OF THE EXPEDITION. By E. D. Cops, A. M. Twenty-two species of fishes and eight of reptiles are embraced in this collection. Among these the principal interest attaches to the fish- fauna of the Colorado River of the West, and its system. Isolated as are its waters from the systems of the Columbia on the north, of the Piatte on the east, of the Rio Grande on the southeast, and of the Pa- cific Coast streams on the west, an inquiry into the character of its fauna becomes desirable. Thishas been entered on with much success by our distinguished ichthyologists, Messrs. Baird and Girard, who have deter- mined the existence of at least one type as peculiar to it; I allude to the genus or group Gila. They have also shown that nearly, if not all, of the species belonging to it differ from those of the other basins— a conclusion which the collections of Dr. Hayden confirm. The num- ber of species from the heads of the Colorado included in the present collection numbers 13, none of which have been found in other waters, if we include in this basin those which empty into the lakes of Utah— and of which five are new to science. Beyond the possession of peculiar species and one peculiar genus this river basin does not differ from others except in what it lacks. This want of forms may be owing to the poverty of our colleétions, or to their real absence. It is enough to mention Stluroids, Hyodon, Hsox, Lepidosteus, Amia, and Physoclysti, m general, to express the im- perfection of our knowledge and the probability that, when examined, an interesting faunal combination may be discovered. Not the least in- teresting fact is the occurrence of a Coregonus in the Green River and other upper waters of the basin. The other fishes obtained by Dr. Hayden are from the upper tributa- ries of the Platte. As pertaining to the same great Missouri drainage area, a few species from the neighborhood of St. Joseph, Northwestern Missouri, are added. These were submitted to me by Dr. William Stimp- son, secretary of the Chicago Academy of Sciences. REPTILIA. CAUDISONA CONFLUENTA, Say, (Crotalus.)—Utah, Colorado, Wyo- | ERE eB Tone NASICUS, Baird and Girard.—Head-waters of the Platte. KUT ANIA PARETALIS, Say, (Zropidonotus, Halb.)—Head-waters of the STE VAGRANS, Baird and Girard.—Utah, Wyoming, and Col- ora eed MACULATA, Baird and Girard.—Head-waters of the ee DOUGLASSH, Bell.—Head-waters of the Platte. BATRACHIA. RANA HALECINA, Bose.—Common along all the streams. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 433 THLEOSTEI. \ Cottide. URANIDEA PUNCTULATA, Gill, (Potamocottus;) Proc. Boston Soc. N. H., 1861, 40.—Head-waters of Green River. Salmonide. SALmo (Salar) VIRGINALIS,Girard ; United States Pacific Railroad Sur- vey, Vol. X, p. 320, Pl. LXIII, figs. 1-4.—This species is well figured by Girard as above. An error occurs in the enumeration of rays, where the branchiostegals are said to number 9-9; they are, I find in three specimens, 11-11. The species is distinguished from S. tridea, Girard, by its more slender form and fewer anal and dorsal radii. When the spe- cimens were first received they exhibited short, broad, longitudinal red bars along the lateral line. l Seven specimens, two from Henry’s Fork Green River, and two from near Fort Bridger. SALMO (SALAR) STOMIAS, (COPE ;) Sp. nov. Salmo (Trutta) lewisti, Cope. Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci., Phila., 1865, nec. Girardil. General form short and stout, the head large and wide, with wide mandi- ble and mouth. The length ofthe head enters four times to near the emar- gination of the caudal fin, and the depth at the first dorsal ray four times in the length to the end of the basal scales of the caudal. The base of the first dorsal ray is nearly equidistant between the end of the muzzle and base of caudal fin, or, more exactly, rather nearer to the base of the marginal caudal ray than to the muzzle. Radi, B. 10, D.IL. 12, A. I. 10, V. 9. The end of the maxillary extends half the eyes diameter behind the margin of the eye. Interorbital width 3.5 times in length of head; eye, 4.6 times in the same, and equal to the length of the muzzle. Symphysis of mandible equal to or shorter than. muzzle; gape wide. Forty-two longitudinal scales above the laternal line. Max- illary bone of nearly uniform width. There are indistinct brown blotches on the sides, and numerous black spots on the posterior dorsal region, the entire caudal peduncle and the two dorsal and caudal fins; anal unspotted; spots few in front of dorsal. M. NRotallenethofsmaller specimen). 3 osc. 853 5 ne 0. 227 Meme Gh Of nearly eet eb Ue Me EEO ES GML NCU SEL TAN . 0515 CS MAEECORVETERALG Sees e ey) Mania Uy cies ER aM as IR SM NG Le . L06 AIG NANO ATT AN se SI a es a) A OAR a 15 Width lower jaw, at orbits. ..---. ey ese ns eon cist mncamiuic nie ena aes . 0168 This species is an ally of the S. lewisii, S. virginalis, and S. iridea. From the last of these the fewer anal radii distinguish it. From 8. vir- ginalis the stouter form, wider head with shorter muzzle, and one less branchiostegal ray, separate it. Thus in that species the head enters the length to the end of the caudal scales four times, and the depth 4.5 times. The dorsalis considerably nearer the end of the muzzle than the basis of the caudal. The eyes and interorbital widths are less. The WS. lew- isti, like S. stomias, from Mississippi waters, is more like S. virginalis in all the respects mentioned, according to both the description and figures of Girard, but adds the peculiarity of only 10 branchiostegals instead of 11. Two specimens from the Platte River, from near Fort Riley, Kansas. Discovered by William A. Hammond, M. D. COREGONUS WILLIAMSONII, Girard; United States Pacific Railroad Reports, X, p. 326, Pl. LXVI. —The Rocky Mountain white fish. 28 G A34 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. With the Salmo virginalis, probably from near Fort Bridger, from the head-waters of the Green River or Western Colorado. Catostomide. I have proposed to adopt as valid (Proc. Amer. Philos. Soc., 1870, 480) seven genera of this family. I would now add an eighth, which embraces species which combine with the characters of ” Catostomus proper, a complete union of the parietal bones, which obliterates the fontanelle so universal among the suckers. The ‘only other exception is seen in Oycleptus, Raf., as [have already mentioned. In all the members of the family where I have examined it, this fontanelle is quite open and of no doubtful proportions, and nowhere reduced to the slit often seen in the Siluride. In searching for the characters of Girard’s so-cailed genera Minomus and Acomus, I find that the type of the former, JZ. insignis, B. G., presents the character above mentioned. 1 therefore adopt his name for the new genus, and add two new species, Jf. delphi- nus and M. bardus. Whether his two other species, M. plebeius and I. clarkii, belong to it is uncertain as yet, but they have the same physi- ognomy. CATOSTOMUS, (LES.) Several species of this genus were procured by Dr. Hayden. For their fuller elucidation the following table, embracing also those of Minomus, is appended. I. Seales of the posterior part of the body materially } larger than those of the anterior. a Anterior dorsalray nearly equidistant between end of muzzle and base of caudal fin. Head five and a half times in length to end of caudal; muzzle projecting, upper lip pendent, very short, with | > C. griseum. two rows tubercles ; smooth margins narrow ; scales 1. tr. 28; eye 1-1 head; V. 10. As the last, but the lips much larger; upper with three rows tubercles, and both with wide smooth margin; ¢ C. discobolus. eye, 5.5 in head, V. 9; isthmus wider. If. Seales of body subequal. a Origin dorsal nearer origin of caudal fin than end of | muzzle. t Upper lip not pendent; head one-fifth length to end of | —) M. delphinus. caudal; upper lip wide, D. 11, V.10; scales tr.1. 30; ventral fins small. .aa Origin of dorsal fin nearer end of muzzle than basis ) of caudal. Head five and a half times in length with caudal; upper ' M. bardus. lip wide, not pendent; isthmus wide; eye, one-fifth, head; 1. tr. 30; D. 11, V. 10: a light band on side. \ CATOSTOMUS SUCKLH, Girard ; United States Pacific Railroad Report, “X, p. 226, Pl. LI1.—Waters of the Platte. CATOSTOMUS LATIPINNE, Baird and Girard; Pr. A. N. Sci., Phil., 1853, .388; United States Mexican Boundary Survey, ITT, 39, Pl. XKiWe 1- 6. (Acomus, Girard.)—Two heads from the Green River. CATOSTOMUS GRISEUM, Girard; Pr. A. N. Sci., Phil., 1856, 174; United States Pacific Railroad, xe 222, Pl. XLIX, figs. 5-9. —Two specimens from Horse Creek, (waters of the Platte, August 27th,) one from Red ‘Cioud Creek, and three from other waters of the Platte. Or GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 43 CATOSTOMUS DISCOBOLUS, (COPE;) sp. nov. Remarkable for its very large lips, especially the upper. In general it is allied to the C. griseum, being of the same cylindric form. The upper lip is pendent, and somewhat expanded all round. Its margin extends outside of that of the lower lip, where it joins it, thus forming an entering rightangle with it. The commissural margins of both are wide and abruptly separated from the tubereulated portions. Tubercles subequal; those of the lower jaw projecting in a convex enlargement, concentric with the lowér commisure; behind deeply incised. Muzzle projecting a little beyond upper lip; head wide, flat above; eye superior, small, entering length of head 5.5 times; three times in muzzle. Phryngeal bones expanded below; teeth delicate laminar, with acute inner cusp. Length of head, entering total to end of caudal scales, four and a half times; ventral fins originating opposite posterior third of dorsal, barely reaching vent; pectorals well separated; isthmus very wide. Radii, D.11; A. 8; V. 9.. Scales in 38-40, longitudinal series — between dorsal and ventral fins; color, olive brown above, black on head, passing into light yellow below, gradually on the body, abruptly on the head. M. Ro talenochr yee ene) ke heyy ere reise! te ES aa 0.153 Mem COTOLUIE am rion eee ere CLUES tlk 0 Please 016 Wensthacooperculan order Ye) 20s fee ene) aN ee ae Ne 029 Wenmehero dorsal ih a UN Nail os eee a Oe 065 Remsen ecoynve Mccel tei sas Nese ee Ars EINE Ce ee 0695 Be Mcibe LORMAN ORC a ky oe a eu ie 097 Werithyor troncaliponesi il tee Oe as oe tae ee ees O14 Mewcrhvotnventraleins estas Viet Ue oe aN 022 Two specimens, one certainly, the other probably, from the Green River, Wyoming. This striking species was discovered by Cam. Carrington. This species may be compared with the C. plebeius, Girard, and C. generosus, Girard. In the first the eye is larger and more median, the scales are subequal, and there are only eight ventral rays. In the second the eye is also larger. In neither is the great development of the lip seen. MINOMUS DELPHINUS, (COPE,) Sp. nov. The subequal size of the scales of this species would refer it indif- ferently to the true group Catostomus of Girard, or his group Minomus, which he did not distinguish clearly. The preceding species would enter his Acomus, which is, however, only an undefined group of species, to which, by the way, the type of Catostomus, C. teres belongs. This species is especially distinguished from those heretofore de- scribed by the shortening of the caudal part of the vertebral column, and the consequent posterior position of the dorsal fin. Add to this a short, wide head, and thick body, and its physiognomy is expressed. The dorsal outline is arched, the head flat above, but elevated behind, and much depressed on the muzzle. The muzzle is wide and does not project beyond the upper lip, which is appressed to its lower face and bears four rows of warts; its smooth commissural part is narrow. On the lower lip the tubercles advance nearly to the commisure; this lip is deeply emarginate posteriorly ; the eye enters the length of the head five times, two and one-half times measuring the muzzle, and twice the interorbital region. Head four and two-thirds times in length to end of caudal basal scales. 436 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Scales in thirty longitudinal series, between dorsal and ventral fins ; ventrals remarkably short, extending little more than half way to vent, originating under posterior third of dorsal. Pectorals well separated. Radii, D.11; A.8, V.10. Isthmus wide. Color above blackish, with a strong inferior marginal shade on the lower part of the sides, and lighter tint above; a brown spot just above axilla, is cut off from it by a band of the yellow color which covers the belly and head below. M. Potal length Sip. ee Ae ee owiehe bate 'e Jia'ate os ee 0. 149 Leneth toorbit =: 95. See EL . 013 ensth to opercular border-28 3. io. oe 5 eee . 0295 Bength todorsal fin 2392208 SO . 069 henge thetosventral fines. Se ee eee . O74 beneth of ventrallsiimien 1, .):i-[hs ie ee eee ae ee 015 lenethsto analimeeca nis. 22. (See oe nee tee SS ee . 097 Interorbitalwadth¢s. 1625 192 ee ee BOS RS Se . 0115 The only species concerning which any doubt can arise in the nomen- * clature of this one is the C. bernardini of Girard. That writer states that the latter possesses 15 D. radii; this, with the ascription of a slen- der form and other peculiarities, will always separate them. Three specimens in Professor Hayden’s collection without locality. This should be probably a tributary of Green River. MINOMUS BARDUS, (COPE;) Sp. nov. This species is distinguished by its very short head, and marked eol- oration, resembling in that respect the C. guzmaniensis of Girard; with this species it has, however, nothing else in common. Head wide, muzzle not projecting beyond upper lip; latter not pend- ent, with narrow, smooth commisure and three or four rows of tubercles. Lower lip deeply incised, tubercular to near inner edge. Eye 5.25 times in length of head, twice in interorbital width. Head five times to end of basal caudal seales. Form stout; body cylindric anteriorly. Dorsal fin nearer end of muzzle than end of caudal seales. Scales of body subequal, in thirty longitudinal rows between dorsal and ventral fins ; latter originating beneath hinder border of dorsal, not quite reaching vent. Pectorals well separated; isthmus wide, narrower than in WM. delphinus. Radii D. 11, A. 8, V. 10. Color, blackish above, a broad olive band from upper part of oper- cular border along upper half of caudal peduncle, and a broad black band below, narrowing to.a line along the middle of the peduncle. Below, yellowish, a band of the same cutting off a blackish area above the axilla, as in the last species. M. Moplelencths.-. ase ee eee _ 0.128 bene ebtororbibe ~..- ~~). ic lise eee cee @ eee O1 Hensthtoopercular border. 25025). 208 072 ee 0235 henethtojdorsal fim, 0... 5 eee ae see er 059 enethtowentrahan.-' 2 ck. alee ee eee eee - ais ae DOSS Length of ventral Ti eee Pens ASG Sa Sea oe 5 asa hb socc 017 hens th to anal ime. oo... 0... + ee eee 086 Tnterorbital widthes. oa. 5. 2b. 2. LR ee eee oe .0095 From the same locality as M. delphinus. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 437 PTYCHOSTOMUS BUCCO, (COPE ;) Sp. nov. A stout species, with a head short and particularly wide thrcugh the opercula. Lips thin, the inferior consisting of lateral lobes inclosing a V-shaped interval. Superior lip narrow, not pendent. Muzzle slightly projecting, subtruncate in profile. Eye large, 3.5 times in length of head, 1.2 in muzzle, and nearly .75 of interorbital width. Front and vertex flat; width behind orbits 1.75 times in length of head. Head one-fourth length without caudal, and equal to depth. Scales, 6-40- 5. Radii, D. Il. 12; A. II. 7; V. 9. Dorsal nearly median on superior outline. Pharyngeal teeth typical, i. €., pectiniform, with slightly prom- inent inner angle. Color uniform ; dorsal fin dusky. Total length of young. M. .117; to opercular margin 9255; to ventral fins .0545. From St. Josephs, Mis- souri. This species is allied most closely to the P. collapsus, Cope. Thisis a still stouter species, wie depth entering the length only 3.5 times; the eye is smaller, being .2 of the head’s length. The Catostomus suckleyr resembles it, but i 1S more slender, and belongs to another genus. ‘The P. buceo is named from the interopercular width of the head. Cyprinide. (CAMPOSTOMA ANOMALUM, Raf. Icth. Ohiensis.) (Rutilus.) Agas- siz, Cope; Trans. Amer. Philos. Soc., 1866, 396.—Probably from the head- waters of the Platte River. e COLISCUS PARIETALIS, (COPE;) gen. et. Sp. NOV. » ‘Char. genericus: Group IV. of the tribe Epicysti, (Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc., 1866,) and therefore with cultriform teeth arranged 4-4, and elon- gate alimentary canal, coiled many times below the swim bladder. The lateral line is almost entirely wanting, and the dorsal fin originates above a point in front of the ventrals. The lips are exceedingly atten- uated, and the mouth directed upwards. Allied to Hybognathus, Agass. Char. specificus: Head wide; especially behind, contained 4.25 times in the length without caudal fin. Muzzle obtuse; lips equal; mouth descending obliquely, the end of the maxillary not quite reaching the line of the anterior margin of the orbit. Hye 3.6 times in length of head; 7 times into muzzle, and 1.5 times into interorbital width. Scales small; 1. tr. 14; 1. long. 42; seven behind operculum, bearing tubes of the lateral line. Radii D. 1.7; A.1I.8; V.9. General form moderately elongate; dorsal fin intermediate between end of muzzle and basis of caudal. Depth at dorsal, 4.6 times in length without caudal. Subor- bital bones slender. Color everywhere white, silver on the sides of the head. Length, M. .0432. From the Missouri River nearto St. Josephs. (Mus, Chicago Acad. Sciences, No. 575.) HYBOPSIS MISSURIENSIS, (COPE;) sp. nov. Belonging to group B, 7%. e., with teeth 4-4, and mouth inferior Form stout, with large head and thick caudal peduncle. Head 3.75 times into length without caudal fin; scales, 5—31-2—3. Dorsal outline a little arched; depth 4.5 times in length, without caudal fin. Hye three times in length of head, equal muzzle, four-fifths. ee wT ISIE 2 438 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. interorbital width. Profile, plane; parietal region wide; muzzle de- scending; upper lip projecting a little beyond lower ; end of maxil- lary bone reaching line of orbit. Twelve scales in front of dorsal fin. Least depth of caudal peduncle two and a half to three times in length from first analray. Radii, D. 1.8; V.8. Pectorals nearly reach ven- trals; ventrals reach vent. Dorsal nearer end of muzzle than basis of eaudal. Length, M. .05. Light olivaceous, below paler; a silver lateral band and small dark dot at base of caudal fin. No dark dorsal band. From near St. Joseph, Missouri. From the Mus. Acad. Sciences, Chicago. This Hybopsis is near the H. procne, Cope, from the East. It differs in the generally stouter form, the larger head and thicker caudal peduncle. HYBOPSIS SCYLLA, (COPE;) sp. nov. Belonging to the group B. (Trans. Amer. Philos. Soc., 1866, 380) of this genus, and therefore Zallied to H. stramineus and H. pr ocne, Cope. It differs from the former in its more slender form, and from both in the increased number of longitudinal series of scales. Head 4.5 times in length without caudal fin; eye 3.5 times in head; scales 6-34-4. A. IL. 7. This species has a short head with obtuse muzzle. The lips are equal and the mouth slopes a little downward, the end of the maxillary reach- ing the line of the interior margin of the orbit. Length of muzzle .75 diameter of eye, which is little less than interorbital width; teeth 4-4; depth of body at first dorsal ray 4.6 times in length to basis of caudal; at caudal peduncle equal from orbit to opercular border. Ventral fin originating below D. I. Rays, D. I. 8, A. I. 7, V. 8; lateral line slightly decurved medially. Total length, 0 M. .0545. Color silvery with silver lateral band, marked with black points, which are especially abundant on the side of the muzzle. From Red Cloud Creek, a tributary of the Platte. HYBOPSIS EGREGIUS, (GIRARD.) (Tigoma.) United States Pacific Railroad Reports, X, 291. What I suppose to be this species presents a well- marked grinding surface on one tooth (the second) on each side. There is nothing to dis- tinguish Girard’s Tigomee, with this surface developed, from my section D of H ybopsis. (Trans. Amer. Philos. Soc., 1866, 382. ) These species are his T. gibbossa, T. nigrescens, T. pulchra, and J crassa. The teeth are 4,1(2)—1(2).4, and the mouth more or less oblique. They cannot be separated, as a genus, from Hybopsis. The Tigome, without mastica- tory surface, are closely allied to the Clinostomi, from which they differ in having the teeth 4.2-2.4 instead of 4. 2-2.5. Some of Girard’s Tigomee appear to be true Clinostomi. Five specimens from Green River. PHOTOGENIS PIPTOLEPIS, (COPE;) Sp. nov. This species has much the physiognomy of Ceratichthys dissimilis, Kirt., and is allied to the same genus. Dorsal region alongside and in front of the dorsal fin, scaleless; scales at dorsal, 3-4—36—2-3. Radii, D. 1.7, A. 1.3, V. a; — Reeth; dy 4; head, one- fourth length without caudal; depth, 4.66 times in the same ; eye oval, diameter a little less than length of muzzle, 3.5 times in length of head and a little less than in- terorbital diameter; the mouth is nearly horizontal, and the muzzle GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 439 descends gradually to it without projecting; maxillary extending beyond the line of the orbit; interorbital region convex. In general proportions this species is rather elongate, with elongate head and small mouth. Length 0 M..07. First ventral and dorsal radii opposed and a little nearer the end of the muzzle than the base of the caudal fin. Color above olive, below silver; a broad silver lateral band with black dots on each side of the lateral line, and a band of specks on the side of the head. A strong black dorsal band. From the North Platte. In two smaller specimens, apparently of this species, there are some peculiar differences. In onethe back is half scaled, the other entirely scaled, and the count is 6-36-4. The caudal peduncle is alittle shorter, so that the dorsal fin has a median position; and the head enters the length (without caudal) 37 times. From the Red Cloud Creek. HYPSILEPIS CORNUTUS, Mitchell, Cope, Proceed. Acad. Nat. Sci, - Phila., 1867, 1538.—Red Cloud Creek. CYPRINELLA BILLINGSIANA, (COPE ;) Sp. nov. A rather stout fusiform species, having the depth .25 of the length without caudal fin. Length of head the same; eye contained in it 3.5 times, .75 of interorbital width. Parietal and frontal regions convex transversely. Lips equal; mouth slightly descending; maxillary. bone reaching line of orbit. Muzzle nearly equal to orbit’s diameter. Scales, 6-31-3. Radii, D. 1. 8; A.1.8 (95) V. 8; originating considerably in ad- vance of line of dorsal fin; not reaching vent. Pharyngeal teeth 4.1-1.4. Color in alcohol reddish above, 7%. ¢., transparent in life; sides and operculum silvery. Rosa blanda, Ait.—Denver; Wyoming Territory ; August to Septem- ber. Pyrus sambucifolia, Ch. and Schl.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. In fruit. SAXIFRAGACE Zi. JSamesia Americana, Torr. & Gray.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory. ; Saxifraga bronchialis, L.—Mountains near Denver. Heuchera bracteata, Seringe.—Fall River, Colorado Territory; B. H. Smith. Heuchera parvifolia, Nutt.—Fall River, Colorado Territory; B. H. Smith. CRASSULACE 2. Sedum stenopetalum, Pursh.—Fall River, Colorado Territory; Uinta Mountains. Sedum rhodanthum, Gray.—Uinta Mountains. Sedum Rhodiola, DC.—Mountains near Denver. 476 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ONAGRACEZ. : Gaura parviflora, Dougl.—Near Denver. Gaura coccinea, Nutt. Near Denver. Epilobium augustifolium, L. Denver; Uinta Mountains. Epilobium paniculatum, Nutt.—Near Denver. Epilobium coloratum, Muhl.—Denver ; Wyoming Territory ; August to September. (Hnothera biennis, L.—Denver ; Wyoming Territory ; August to Sep- tember. Hnothera pinnatifida, Nutt.—Near Denver. (nothera coronopifolia, Torr. and Gray.—Near Denver. nothera albicaulis, Nutt.—Denver; Camp Carlin, Wyoming Terri- tory. nothera cespitosa, Nutt.—North Park, Colorado Territory. Cnothera serrulata, Nutt.—Denver; Wyoming ety August to September. LOASACE 4. Menitzelia ornata, Torr. and Gray.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Mentzelia nuda, Torr. and Gray.—Denver; Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. UMBELLIFER & Archangelica Gmelint, DC.—Uinta Mountains. Cicuta maculata, L.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Carum Guirdneri, Gray. Proc. Am. Acad., 7, p.344. (Hdosmia Gaird- neri, Torr. & Gr., Fl. N. Am., 1, p. 612.)—Uinta Mountains; Wyoming Territory ; August to September. CORNACEZ. Cornus stolonifera, Michx.—Denver; Henry’s Fork of Green River. CAPRIFOLIACEZ. Symphoricarpus occidentalis, R. Br.—Denver; Henry’s Fork of Green River. Lonicera involucrata, Banks.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. : RUBIACEZ. Galium boreale, L.—Denver; Uinta Mountains. VALERIANACE. Valeriana dioica, L., var. sylvatica, Richards.—Denver. Valeriana edulis, Nutt.—Uinta Mountains. COMPOSIT AL. Liatris pune tata, Hook.—North Park, Colorado Territory ; Wromme Territory. ' Brickellia grandiflora, Nutt.—Near Denver. Macheranthera tanacetifolia, Nees.—Denver. Aster falcatus, Lindl.—North Park, Colorado Territory; 1868. Aster ericotdes, L.—Near Denver. Aster levis, L. ” Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Aster adscendens, Lindl. var. ciliatifolius, Torr. and Gray.—Camp Car- lin, Wyoming Territory ; Henry’ s Fork of Green River. Aster ma ultiflor US, Ait. "North Fork, Colorado Territory; Henry’s Fork of Green River. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. ATT Aster Fendlert, Gray.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Aster glaucus, Torr. and Gray.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Terri- tor iter salsuginosus, Richards. —Uinta Mountains. Aster glacialis, Nutt.— Uinta Mountains. Aster angustus, Torr. and Gray.—Uinta Mountains. Brigeron compositum, Pursh.—Near Denver. Hrigeron divergens, Torr. and Gray.—Denver. Brigeron glabellum, Nutt.—Mountains near Denver. HBrigeron Canadense, L.—Denver. Solidago Virga-aurea, L., var. multiradiata, Torr. and Gray. Solidago rigida, L.— Denver; Wyoming Territory. Solidago memoralis, Ait., var.—Denver. Solidago Canadensis, L., var. Scabra, Torr. and Gray.—Camp Carlin; Henry’s Fork of Green River. Solidago gigantea, Ait.—Near Denver. Gutierrezia Huthamie, Torr. and Gray.—Near Denver. Linosyris graveolens, Torr. and Gray.—North Park, Colorado Terri- tory; Henry’s Fork of Green River, Wyoming Territor Wa LTinosyris viscidiflora, Hook. —Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory ; Wyoming Territory; August to September. Linosyris lanceolata, Torr. and Gray.—North Park, Colorado Territory. Aplopappus spinulosus, DC.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory. Aplopappus Parryi, Gray.—Mountains near Denver. Grindelia squarrosa, Dunal.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory ; Camp Carlin, Wyoming ‘Territory. Chrysopsis villosa, Nutt.—Denver; Camp Carlin, Wyoming Memory: Chrysopsis hispida, Hook.—Near Denver. EHuphrosyne xanthiifolia, Gray. (Cyclachena xanthiifolia, Fres.; Torr. & Gray, Fl. N. Am., 2. p. 286.)—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. Ambrosia trifida, L.—Wyoming Territory, August to September. Rudbeckia laciniata, L.—Near Denver. Rudbeckia hirta, L.—Denver; Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. Lepachys columnaris, Torr. and Gray.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Helianthus petiolaris, Nutt.——Denver; Camp Carlin, Wyoming Ter- ritory. Helianthus rigidus, Desf.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Helianthus strumosus, L. var.—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. Helianthus letiflorus, Pers.—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. Helianthella uniflora, Torr. and Gray.—Near Denver. Thelesperma filifoium, Gray.—Near Denver. Gaillardia aristata, Pursh.—Denver ; North Park, Colorado Territory ; Wyoming Territory; August to September. Villanova chrysanthemoides, Gray.—Denver. Chaenactis achilleefolia, Hook and Arn.—Denver. Bahia oppositifolia, Torr. and Gray.—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Terri- tory. Helenium autumnale, Pome pe Territory ; August to September. Achillea Millefoium, L.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Artemisia canadensis, Michx.—Denver; Wyoming “Territory ; August to September. Artemisia tridentata, Nutt.—Denver; Wyoming Territory ; ; August to September. Artemisia cana, Pursh.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Artemisia trifida, Nutt.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. ‘ 478 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. Artemisia Ludoviciana, Nutt, var. gnaphalodes, Torr. and Gray.—Hen- ry’s Fork of Green River; Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Artemisia Richardsoniana, Bess.—Uinta Mountains. —. Artemisia frigida, Willd. _ Denver; North Park, Colorado Te : Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Gnaphalium Sprengel, Hook and Arn.—Denver. Antennaria dioica, Gaertn.—Denver; Uinta Mountains. Antennaria alpina, Gaertn.—Denver ; Uinta Mountains. Antennaria margaritacea, R. Br.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Senecio lugens, Richards.— Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Senecio cernuus, Gray.—Mountains near Denver. Senecio longilobus, Benth. —Denver ; Wyeming Territory ; August to September. Senecio raptfolius, Nutt.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Senecio aureus, L. var. Mountains 1 near Denver. . Tetradymia inermis, Nutt.—North Park, Colorado Territory. Tetradymia spinosa, Hook and Arn.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Arnica mollis, Hook.—Mountains near Denver. Cirsium undulatun, Spreng.—Near Denver. Cirsium Drummondit, Torr. and Gray.—Near Denver. Cirsium edule, Nutt.—Near Denver. Stephanomeria runcinata, Nutt.—Denver. Lygodesmvia juncea, Don.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Troximon glaucum, Nutt.—North Park, Colorado Territory; Uinta Mountains. Macrorhynchus troximoides, Nutt.—Fall River, Colorado Territory. . Mulgedium pulchellum, Nutt.—Denver; Wyoming Territory; August to September. CAMPANULACE A. Campanula rotundifolia, L.—Denver ; North Park, Colorado Territory. Campanula Langsdorfiana, Fischer.—North Park, Colorado Territory. Specularia perfoliata, A. DC.—Near Denver. ERICACEZ. Vaccinium Myrtillus, L.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Arctostaphylos Uva-urst, Spreng.—Denver; Uinta Mountains. Pierospora Andromedea, Nutt.—North Park, Colorado Territory. PLANTAGINACE A. Plantago Patagonica, Jacq., var. graphalioides, Gray.—Near Denver. Plantago eriopoda, Torr.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. PRIMULACEZ. Dodecatheon Meadia, L.—Uinta Mountains. In fruit. Androsace filiformis, Retz—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Androsace septentrionalis, L.i—Denver; Uinta Mountains. Glaux maritima, L.—Wyoming Territor y; August to September. OROBANCHACEZ. Aphyllon fasciculatum, Torr. and Gray.—Denver. SCROPHULARIACE &. Pentstemon glaber, Pursh.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Pentstemon ceruleus, Nutt.—Near Denver. Pentstemon acuminatus, Dougl.—Near Denver. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 479 Pentstemon humilis, Nutt.—Denver ; Wyoming Territory; August to September. Pentstemon confertus, Dougl., var. ceruleo-purpureus, Gray.—Mountains near Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory. Mimulus Jamesii, Torr.—Near Denver. Mimulus luteus, L., Wyoming Territory; August to September. Liysanthes gratioloides, Benth.—North Park, Colorado Territory. Veronica Americana, Schw.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Veronica serpyllifolia, L.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Castilleia integra, Gray.—Near Denver. Castilleia pallida, Nutt.—Denver ; Uinta Mountains. Orthocarpus luteus, Nutt.—Denver; Uinta Mountains. Pedicularis bracteosa, Benth.—Mountains near Denver. Pedicularis Groenlandica, Retz.— Uinta Mountains. VERBENACEAL. Terbena bracteosa, Michx.—Denver; Wyoming Territory. Verbena stricta, Vent.—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory. LABIAT Ai. Mentha Canadensis, L.Henry’s Fork of Green River. Hedeoma Drummond, Benth Wyoming Territory; August to Sep- tember. Monarda fistulosa, L.—Near Denver. Monarda aristata, Nutt.—Near Denver. . Scutellaria resinosa, Torr.—Near Denver. Scutellaria galericulata, .—Near Denver. Stachys palustris, L., var. aspera, Gray.—Denver. Stachys palustris, L., var. cordata, Gray. Wyoming Territory. BORRAGINACE Al. Onosmodium Carolinianum, DC.—Denver. Mertensia alpina, Don.—Mountains near Denver. Mertensia paniculata, Don.—Mountains near Denver. Mertensia Sibirica, Don.—Mountains near Denver, Uinta Mountains. Lithospermum pilosum, Nutt.—Denver. LTithospermum hirtum, Lebm.—Denver. Hehinospermum Redowski, Lehm.—Denver, Wicnine Territory. Hehinospermum floribundum, Lehm.—Denver. Hritrichium crassisepalum, Torr. and Gray.—Denver. EHritrichium Jamesti, Torr.—Near Denver. Eritrichium glomeratum, DC., (Myosotis glomerata, Hook.. Fl. Bor. Am. 2. p. 82. t. 162,) var., hispidissimum, Torr. in Hmory’s Rep. Bound. Surv. 2. p. 140. (fide Gray.)—Camp Carlin, Wyoming Territory, July 30, 1870, F. V. Hayden.—Stem 8 to 10 inches high. Racemes mostly bifid or trifid, 3 to 4 inches long, much surpassing the leaves. Flowers small and somewhat scattered, rather shorter than the acute, lance-ovate bracts. Limb of the corolla 2 lines in diameter, its narrow tube about as long. Nutlets 4, reticulate-rugose on the back. Eritrichium virgatum, sp. nov. . Sesquipedale, hispidissinum; caule simplici tereti erecto; foliis vadicalibus oblongo-spathulatis, caulinis linearibus; cymis plurimis in axillis foliorum conglomeratis peduncula- tis superne subsessilibus confertisque ; calycis 5- partiti segmentis lance- olatis tubum corolla aequantibus ; nuculis 4-ovatis dorso infra partem mediam convexo supra lateribus depresso laevibus nitidis.——Near Den- ver, Colorado Territory, 1869, B. H. Smith. The stout virgate spike 480 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. made up of numerous glomerate cymes, crowded in the axils of the linear cauline leaves, which much exceed them in length. Limb of the corolla 4 lines in diameter, its lobes rounded. Nutlets smooth and shining, the lower half of the back convex, the upper depressed on the sides, leaving a central vertical ridge. According to Dr. Gray this plant is the same as Parry’s 288, and Hall and Harbour’s 438 (in part.) It has passed for a form of H. glomeratum, DC., but seems more nearly allied in its fruit and habit of growth to LH. leucophaewn, A. DC. (Myoso- tis leucophwa, Dougl., in Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. 2. p. 82. t. 163,) and I have ventured to give it a name. HYDROPHYLLACE A. Hydrophyllum Virginicum, L.—Denver. Phacelia circinata, Jacq.—Denver. Phacelia sericea, Gray.—Denver. Hilisia ambigua, Nutt.—Denver. POLEMONIACEZ. Polemonium confertum, Gray.—Gray’s Peak, Colorado Territory. Collomia linearis, Nutt.— Uinta Mountains. Gilia congesta, Hook.—Denver; Wyoming Territory. Gilia pinnatifida, Nutt.—Mountains near Denver. Gilia aggregata, Spreng.—Denver. With white and red flowers. Gilia pungens, Benth.—Near Denver. SOLANACE. Solanum rostratum, Pursh.—Denver. Physalis Pennsylvanica, L., var.2—Wyoming Territory; August to Sep- tember. GENTIANACE ZS. Gentiana affinis, Griseb.—Mountains near Denver; North Park, Col- orado Territory ; Uinta Mountains. Wyoming Territory. Gentiana Parryi, Engelm.—Mountains near Denver; North Park, Col- orado Territory. Gentiana detonsa, Griseb.—Near Denver. Gentiana frigida, Haenke, var. algida, Griseb.—Gray’s Peak, GUE orado Territory ; Uinta Mountains. Gentiana acuta, Michx.—Near Denver; Uinta Mountains. Frasera speciosa, Dougl.— Uinta Mountains. APOCYNACE. Apocynum androsemifolium, L.—Denver. ASCLEPIADACEZ. Asclepias speciosa, Torr.—Near Denver. Asclepias verticillata, L—Wyoming Territory. The dwarf variety. NYCTAGINACEZ. Oxybaphus angustifolius, Sweet.—Denver. Oxybaphus nyctagineus, Sweet.—Denver. Abronia fragrans, Nutt.—Denver, Wyoming Territory. CHENOPODIACEZ. Cycloloma platyphyllum, Moq.—Denver. Teloxys cornuta, Torr. in Whipple’s, Report, Pacific Railroad Survey, 4, p. 129.—Mountains near Denver. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. 481 Blitum capitatum, L.—Denver. Blitum maritimum, Nutt.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Obione argentea, Mog.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Salicornia Virginica, L.—Big Sandy, Wyoming Territory; September 8. Whole plant of a bright-red color. AMARANTACE A. Frelichia Floridana, Moq.—Denver. Montelia tamariscina, Gray.— Wyoming Territory; August to Sep- tember. POLYGONACE 4. Polygonum Bistorta, L.—Near Denver; Uinta Mountains. Polygonum aviculare, L., var. erectum, Roth.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory. Polygonum tenue, Michx., var.—Denver. Polygonum ramosissinum, Michx.—Wyoming Territory. Polygonum dumetorum, L.—Wyoming Territory. Rumex maritinum, L.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Oxyria digyna, KR. Br.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Eriogonum umbellatum, Torr.—Denver; Wyoming Territory. Hriogonum umbellatum, Torr., var. monocephalum, Torr and Gray, Rev. Erigon., p. 160. Hriogonum alatum, Torr., var. glabriusculum, Torr., Rev. Hrigon, p. 154.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory. Hriogonum microthecum, Nutt., var. effusum, Torr. and Gray, |}. ¢., p. 172.—Denver; North Park, Colorado Territory ;; Wyoming Territory. Hriogonum brevicaule, N utt.—Wyoming Territory; August to Sep- tember; with yellow flowers. Hrio gonum annuum, Nutt.—Denver. Hrig gona cernuum, Nutt.—W yoming Temitory August to Septem- ber. ELZAGNACE A. Shepherdia Canadensis, Nutt.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Shepherdia argentea, Nutt.—Henry’s Fork of Green River, Wyoming Territory. , EUPHORBIACE 4. Euphorbia petaloidea, Engelm.—Denver. Huphorbia marginata, Pursh.—Denver. Huphorbia montana, Kngelm.—Mountains near Denver. Croton muricatum, Nutt.—Near Denver. BETULACEH Ai. Betula papyracea, Ait., var. pumila, Regel, in DC. Prod.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Alnus serrulata, Ait., var. rugosa, Regel.—Henry’s Fork of Green. River. SALICACE 4. Salix cordata, Mubhl.—Wyoming Territory; August to September. Salix longifolia, Muhl.—Denver; Wyoming Territory. Salia lucida, Muhl, var. angustifolia, Anders. —Henry’s. Fork of Green River. Populus Canadensis, Desf., var. angustifolia, Westmael in DC. Prod. (P. angustifolia, Torr. \—Henry’s Fork of Green River. ol G 4§2 GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF THE TERRITORIES. CONIFER Ai. Ys Hphedra antisyphilitica, Berland.—Wyoming Territory; August to Sep- tember. Juniperus communis, L.—Near Denver. Tuniperus occidentalis, Hook.—Wyoming Territory ; August to Sep- tember. Pinus flexilis, James.—Wyoming Territory. IRIDACEZ. Tris tenax, Dougl.—Denver; Wyoming Territory. In fruit. LILIACE 2. Veratrum viride, Ait.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Zygadenus glaucus, Natt.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Smilacina stellata, Desf.—Denver ; Uimta Mountains. Allium siellatum, Nutt.—Denver. Allium cernuum, Roth.—Denver. Allium acuminatum, Hook !—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. The sepals havealonger acumination than in Hooker’s figure (FI. Bor. Am., t. 196), and the inner ones are not serrulate. Allium Schenoprasum, L.—Wyoming Territory; August to Septem- ber. Yucea angustifolia, Pursh.—Near Denver. Calochortus venustus, Beuth.—Near Denver. JUNCACE_A8. ‘ Luzula spicata, Desv.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Tuzula parviflora, Desv., var. melanocarpa, Grey.—Uinta Mountains. Juncus Balticus, Dethard.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Juncus tenuis, Willd.—Henry’s Fork of Green River. Juncus longistylis, Torr. (J. Menziesii, R. Br.)—Denver. Juncus nodosus, Li, var. megacephabs, Torr. sone Juncus Mer tensianis , Gong.; Eugelin. Rev., p. 479.—Uinta Mountains. COMMELYNACE Al. Tradescantia Virginica, L.—Denver. CYPERACE Z&. Hleocharis palustris, Rh. Br.—Denver. Scirpus pungens, Vahl.—Denver. Scirpus maritimus, L.—Wyoming Territory ; August to September. Scirpus atrovirens, Muhl.—Near Denver. Carex straminea, Schk.—Denver. Carex festiva, Dew.—Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory. Carex Haydeniana, Olney, sp. noy. Spica ovata vel subrotundata capitata fusco-ferruginea e spiculis sub-6 basi masculis densifloris; brac- teis squamaeformis ‘cuspidatis ; perigyniis ovatis longe attenuato-rostra- tis, ore oblique secto, membranaceis compressis alatis; margine duplo- serratis basi leviter nervatis, flavidis superne vel demum omnius fuscis apertis squama ovata acuta margine hyalina longioribus; achemio stramineo lenticulari-elliptico. Hab., California, Bolander, 5074; Uinta Mountains, Wyoming Territory, F. Vv. Hayden, September, 1870.—The Carex Haydeni of Dewey being clearly C. aperta, Boott., this is named in honor of the zealous explorer in the realms of natural history whose nameit bears. 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Page INDEX TO GEOLOGICAL REPORT OF PROFESSOR. .F. V. HAYDEN ....----~-------. 10-188 Alkali ....-..----2-- ---- +--+ 22 ee scene ee eee tee eee nee cee eee ee eee eee 187 /NDPELOOS SWBMOM, 5655 ABS She oo becd Sagage cHosce apeeas seades Sasdec Gosiese ossin sens 110 PAMIAIVSCS asain lesea= =.= -'= Liscboo bboo ooseeu secouedoongedeeeeo cocebeces 14, 171, 181, ee Aspen SRE Hoin 8 AR SUIS CSU) PRS Rene apn OR ORE AAI NEST L 149 JDMINEEIL S[OMMMNGS. Gobonoeouodadd sdectd Ge caseso dagcdce Gdetoe ceunegaeueen coos onesoe 73 ioynal IL@HNO Eee aS odokeo deo deceos pogadd daqa peo bd0 dado cass sanbieseooccoud coos 104, 157 LS eRe LENS WED) 1D) LOEEICL ON 65 ono LeoosedunoguedcouSoUSe oe Gone souo Geom boas acioe 44 WES NEL WO, Cliay os IDS 68 Bass osccau os maso choo dsod done pacecsdocuss 2) Be: 10) Koha LEN) Welln Clay, O00 eee oa ee ee pores aace 147 (Chiiiy, Ins Ore gunesnie) were Hoe ee ookG Ceo obo be Cooeco cdboscbo se seco Sonex 150 HS EAVES eee eee ee ee aH cS rach 2 cal aire SMU el et OO Shoe Lr Ns ee mel iai ea 135 PR STNG OMS LAL OT ery Seacrest eta Syl de ks LAE Re aM PA pea a elke Oe 2 AU ee 135 BioTRoOMdIS tatlOme ye Meese Seleyemsate Bleicher: eps a ileara/ pauiayeuereay, eu seven oleye tals Zl BiG bery CLECs SOMUIOM sete e mice sec ae Nn aay iy LE oa ese ea eee 140 Weill; sicbbdhs Ghaceonsosesissas su ceus soonsm de osianSausdacoed aandes, . IAD Vere Kewl waits bO repartee Sree iar ener Ds Biche ei UN 2 Se See Se Se aed 71,141 Hills, (Laramie Mountains) ES al ea a eae Neh eae MI NS real S a 12, 21 IBA GIS hOB ESAs SapC eB Ae nao eer nE Se a es Ae a RET Ete ass 41 lB Thuy, Ian) Soke aaron paar SoRe near OAs oMSed bes Bera cunele Rm wracns Guone 100 BlutisjofNiobraray Gro wy seals s eek ese ee Cae Ne aac hats a Sierra 90 HS ose el Ve © iy TAM a IV a NE SE efi aR Seas ee ele I 24, 162 Bie lonsse CTY CPN SI Sea eet he hs AES a aN al nly AN es ALP eo ain hrs ope 58, 73, 166 BES ASS eet aera era aoa ie ey ea Hh tN UN oy eee an aioe ore ARAN HLTA sulle A Sam Pa 73, i) Carboniferous rocks, Missouri River, divisions of....-......--.---------------- 86 Wanisombode se epee Socie yaya ie Sea ase tera Sule Cte a aS ale ale eee ela 36, 171 FSALEEE TKO OU, 2005 20 8G EG Ve SAAN FL a Panty een GNI eA Mae ION Mat earn Oe ce TI O77 WARD ONES TALTO MUA ae ep elere pa mr arl (aie Ie LU Rnue bal ne EUR SG Nhe 202 Se icewe ae ar oc hee 133 @heyenne= as. -/ Be ey ae AL Ae een ee em pees yeeore. TL lt to Fort Fetterman, Chap. SCA ANE GU OR OES LLC Ace mee 11 Cherokee Trail. ep PH ava apa apa Ab eyes Nie rat a Sey UL a ak aad Ee tes eel eo in ea ee TOG Church Buttes .......---- USE RATE ape Selinger ne weer eT LS 114 Chalk Bluffs, Blackbird Hill, , Nebraska, (ent) CEOS ES Se UMM SMES amon a sotE 5am 88 Chugwater -..- Wa EAC AU eg UCT EAL gS ero ee ed dee ese al Wy JU(as Chain de Roche Creek. MEPS RM DSN Loe Sh SON Sn TH Bee Nana ean gees oh CCH Sai RSH es A ee A ee Coal eS e CaaS BANC Cle ASANO to ara 174, ‘101, ER. 136, 139, 141, 149, 154, 166 analyses of. - mid Boag ise Os SL USE IS ia A cl a LE considerations ‘affecting ‘economic value ‘of - URNA AAING IY pane Gow Tetras ley AL THES MT CASTILE S Ufo [0 Cleese ey ee eae eee ye NR ile mL Rep UNS Cis UU eee 85 (COEIISS OE Wlaney TOO) Shir NY oe Da peas) Aa Se A Aen oe LW Ae IU ata naa anu oc 179 ra livsil eye reratee aise) ade vane ee SUEMMIUS SU OU ae ERR St ne eee eee Ss AS cicigicme ene Seeieu LOC aRL OG CODICES BE A ce Sate OY TYE ESN a ag Get een eA a ee eee eRe Sn Se Ilsics WOOPETSIOTEE Keeper Meet Ry UTERO tear mane Yan StS on 2 oie SO) ak te rs a ORT Columbus, ISTE etal lary cen sd SO ONO SON OM RRR ROR RUE HOES TAS Como Station . Briere YUE SESS Hl EV BALM de US ee No een Sereey ren Sage ae). Coteau des Prairies, (cut) erste aha tetova ev alacenic Grass ees = ieee = See ee Ce ea COLEOMBV OO AEC RES yer Srey ya are On Pe ata cadre Se Se tk 18 504 INDEX. Page. COxs Peake shee cee aoe eee ae oa ca ese nee ioe on ae eee eee eee eae 53 Cretaceous rocks of Northwest, general section of.-....-------.--------------- 87 No. 1, of Little Blue River, Nebraska, (Cut)a- ----co-o see eee alo Creston) Station! 555-5 2. een a a selcims) eis eee eciea ecleee se cioe see eee eee 139 IDE" ROWE CROWD socssoce coense5e5s05 6555 6605 cogs soca Gass HCO doeSbe does Cenc 88, 90, me Male: Creek 228 ooo 6c nce) et eles Se ee eles Se Sandee sone Seca eee eo 117 . Dawes’s Peak - BUN reiel ste /ateceralloian aye jalode ida oils eeetane asic palo a astern Cee 53 DeeriOTeEk sks te a Te ce sin aR 25 Devil’s Gate - Eafasie knee a hieleerea ae dis tee pesee soe eae SoC eee 31 MialgRock Paste qecee ne ede bine Selection ceeles' cei deun cere eee eee eee LS Douglas County, N Nebraska ...0 2.252 et te Drift deposits -. ee SARA oe ER Ee SoCs GsGs. LA! Duck Wake shes eeee ene whee Sebeeg edt See ee Ve eee 73 Dynamics of ‘geology, examples of ee Le ee Mast Hmdaminestsc222 gs sh lh52 23 cass so8 shee bec dsies ee cere sees eel eae HCH ONCIGY ies eee cccise shies 5 Sh cciee oo See oe eee tenes Se Ce eee Ceo ee end (Canim Ab BAS ase oSed dose eeHeesScEomoceeosobuedesseaotsodasooceccocéeuecs UES Creek... 2 eSaieechels ease eek «a sclsaeomeea he fee ea a 51 Elevation near r South. Passi ic 2is sbecdcen et abe cetuhinee Dobe ae nae eal PikiMounbaimee2sccsc ose. So2 cassek Plates tcc acetone ea er eee 77, 135, i Milikhorm WRiverl:.c. 52286 sheen. eve Sea tacs Geek ee es ee ere Evanston; coal mines atii:. ss... 2h cee ede Saas cas eee eee 161 Port Brideerts jcc e ek ess pas cunts cena tecesne soemeeaes ses ae eae eee 55 and! Uinta Mountains... 22 - +2 5222 sou cose eecee nn. se ea eee Al from’, to Uinta Mountains, «&c., Chap: Vice-2---22---2- eee eeeeee 54 DAL ORUBSSCLL esos ceo soes Leee oe bees caus tomewicn emia d oetoaneys See eeere aed ete 11 Ketterman’ from, to South Pass, Chaps lil. sos. 5-245 4 seec- eee 24 Halleck euccoeeissleca lees Miia tees cothees sed Ansa kde ose oe eee 78 Mag ch el ase Preaek isola oes DOSE He ME a Soe aurea eae ee ae 110 Pierre Group ese lsiss en sete eee See se oeee she aa eriseaieees PO aoe 91 Sandersecc. sos eded eens ass sore ss poe wees a sere sesaaes qcsieeioe ae eee 129 Stambatchetcoss lic sescle bees ec ueaey Sac Cee ene ae eee 36 Steele, list of exposed! strata) Meare ss sea o seco eee eee eee eee eeonsS 136 Horests'of pine near Waramie Plaimse 2285 922 eee ee sets oss eee ee eee 128 HoOssu plants sa asas wooo aS ns ode oS Seales ee Sew Se 89, 94, 143 Box Falls Growp isso iace Jase gos Sats sons gas ans oases sisaeis dec ae ae eee 165 Frémont, Nebraska..---- Hesaas Wesco Saale is degecdistioss sacs cee 102 Prémont)s) Peak s.ssssueas Jace sew sale ase oso an ose kas See ee eee ose 37 GEOLOGICAL REPORT of Prof. F. V. Hayden-.-..-.-.-.-.---- ESE i oe ic 11-188 Gallbert) sit Galler RS She OS a NT A NY SS Nay eee ey 53, 57 Gilaciallaic Grom tet ok re aes ONE teas eee ec ela Te tn eye ee 99 Granite Can ones eet eee ee een eres Sic ee hee Cree ee eee 113, 115 Gregory Lode, Colorado-.-..-.--.--. $25 ARSE Oe eee el Soke Gere ee i7te/ GES MRIVEL: GROUPS ate eee eee ye re tpt eet ge ela aS eur sete eter ee 58, 70, 142 Station to! Cheyenne) Chap. Vilas. eae ose eee eee (ace 70 IBedsts2 ier sass aha ees eC a OSE AS Sroe a eee ee eee ee 40, 60 OilkTodessen eS eee eet eee eee eee eee 68 Hayden'siCathedralicce eee eos ce ce eee Sec eee ee eee eee 43 Haystack Butters ton eh eee Oe ee ee OR ee 70 Henmny,s wBorkee Os cote ete ESR Leeh Sek As ES ee ee 56 IFLOTSE\C reek eer Se a esate i eee Se EEE eee 13 iEforse-Shoey Greeks: boo 2h. Se sec Oe e eee teeter et cee See ee eee 19 Independence:Rockts22s<2222 tbs: Ute Se ee 30 Imsects, (fossil) ssh eee it Lak eR AE Cee REL Ree eee er 144 PROMOTE sss :25 2 SSE ee SR ees AR ET ee gh Sl ae ee TAL? Jackson’s' Canons so 82 seats Soe ee. St ee eee eee 28 War Bonte:@réelessosss sees eee hos eee ree eee ee 20 Thal Clede Stations: 2 ee eit ee Ske oo OE eee ee 75 hake "Bellamy ssoss sss ssgrsese sss oa Sst es ee aes Se 98 GarPrelanGreelkces ois oss Bee ee ee 22 haramiePlaims:(Chap..X¢ 120) oes sc se ae eee nee ee 79.121 IRIVET Fs Se wicic’s cua owen Pose celeste Semmens een eee eee eee reeee 78, 121, 124, 163 INDEX. 505 Page Laramie Hanes (Bleek ISHHIS)) Gooaccodon.cpgue5 pono oonG DobN Cocco cbbanetodc code ; 112 sons SSeek bbe bShg boos Robo Senco tUnDREC rm Sarcans Hedepedseancee 7,118 Letter to tho oe of the enerion by Erol EVE Elay enema e ere ae 3 ILi@Mlie: WEthioecasslebsetocichccse tases epeddaledes case eebesa on -seoaseese 16, 22, 59, 74 (Cironyo, Cieeticosede soub codaes Soabad GecedocoecEs cscHecdeon bbsese cosesc 93 IM COlNENE DLAs Ka seis e sey ee lehelala a Lis oc a lserefavejcis eiclay cfs \avaye ale las seatal ee ose) =a eee 73 ofiNebraska, oeneral section Of {2 42=-o---55-2ee eee Pee eee 93 BnTee MOTOSSIN OS) sanin aye seek ae eee aa oe Soe See See eee Bence 30 MTASSic SANdSLONES, | (CUb) es esos einai = aie eee acinar Lstsbe- esse 119 Mio tles, efOSsM noioh oo, 3 eco weioy stoma doce Sem eee EEE Ee 145 Union Pacific Railroad, elevations along --_-_ 0. ~2..2 22 -- 22S See eee 112 (WintaMoun tains trip tO} .=.)- 6 —e)- ae oe ony = ae 44 Vermillion Creeks, se oe oss aioe cae Se yee Sone an eae ae es 68 WWarpania Dalle ooo s 2 Sasty oss alec cele Se qe ee (eae eo ee 116 Warm Spring analysis of .. 222 2(.. 2... 2222 son. teases 25h Se sce eee eee 171 \WWekeireil( Crh Sas 6555 a5 eke See noose aeco sees Soo bos oeeSEceose Ss sSosss -c5-- 159 GEOUDP aise sie o's eeeinnep ce inne stale“ eis eRe eee ee Ce ee eee eee 148, 169 Washakie Group. BOS OOS OFS SO O oan ERED Dene Soc eDU ch SHE cea eGS bea 5 ho86 GaSe ecccce 73 WiebertRivier.. 22 2\2c.n= see seen ea eiseicoce eens See Co eee eee ee mina Willow Sprin gs. BBO BOG COCO SEBS CMO abe Boe ou SDHO DS eASB Sedo BSS Eh EGA Sess desoce 2250 29 Wands River Mountains -eccca-s- seas esee ee ae ese ee nee eee eee 30 Wiyomine Territory, description of cash part. 5---,-2-- 2255) -2 0 eee eee 114 fellow Creel Stahion: soe osc iso pe, cena one Selassie emisepese le jae ete ee 154 Woung "America: Miness- 22. 3225 5262220 ose 2 seeieee eee sees eee eee eee 7 Ganadians Mines? 2 2225 oben eee ee ee Sp eek bee oe ee TIED PART II ACCOMPANNING REPORTS, &O@.. 52.0522... - 2-2-6 soes cess pce ee eee 190-501 Agriculture, Report on, by Professor C. Thomas....-...---------.--2----2---- Ba lle Analyses 5. bors nose coos So es Bas satsssey Vase eee Pe eee ee 321 Ancient lakes, by Dr: J. SNewberry:-..--- --5=(--2sect Soto 2 eee eee 329 Arkansas ‘istrich: 65. 502.324 ee ee 30s: aa See ee 213 River :s53 she ose se oeewe ehh ceca bigs Rp eee 214 valley of Upper--.:2: 222 22i2-2252 cb deen sb oc ee eee ee ee 194, 214 Artesian Wells "22.525 2-522 Siete bi eee cee Senge see ce eee ase Eee 264 Beaver River Valley.ces. css sssss sscsscs asuec sa5255 sece— Hees 2e eee eee 246 Birds; (fossil) (coco ne oes shosece wees cose soso see eeker ee ee ee eee 265 Grus' Hay denice ssc soso ee eesine oe eee thee ewe es oe eee 265 @ache Walley i520 Sse cs = oc iose Ses Selina eoee seen Sea eee ee eee 233 Caloptenus spretus, remarks on------------ ------ <2 22 022s ee wen a 281 Wamadian SeCtiOn,.- = 42 sin n6 a5. op 25 - = eo ence ees oe eos ebias See eee @ammero (Creek <3 oo 52522 socses ccc sek eco scenes eee cae suelo eee eee Catalogue of mammals and birds, by Mr. J. Stevenson.-...._. ue) aa 461 mollusca, by Mr. S. R. Roberts...-..._-_..---.+-- sie ee eee eee 467 coleoptera, by Dr. G. H. Horn...2...- 02-2 .-22s 2-2 eee 469 INDEX. 507 Page Catalocueof hemiptera, bye. KR. Uhier, esq: 2: 222-2222. 52-22. 22 ccc cen e eens 471 plants; iby) Mir Wl C IP Orber. cise sis otlaicerinl< eee 6) 472 by Dr. C. C. as paoany soEdes eoScObanee- 4 posced penoeann = 484 Cedar Valle yeh See OER LM UG aE a AU ee MMe Se es OAS Cimarron River, SE SNR VERMIN LES. | 213 (CUO mE ACs) CORE Cea aV SPAS) ok Saree cae SE A LN ene ee ae ete 453 ING wir Mel CONE een ee cc Cee NU pi tier cia ee 2 etn Lem a 208 Uae a Sia Ae gE NN ar ay ne aa aN TN 247 Coalsttertianyer by Miry Jele od gers e = eke Sue Seo ley kA oa) 2 Ne em 318 Coal andy siSOL ke seen renee niece ate isha ence me monk bietn cep eee eae 321 MOC ATUETER Ee Moe rae ais SI ou elt a ee Ree Meena el Syd ais Buda cece 322 Bakers Mine see yonec. see ewe ed Boe ABO Bees Mean eae Aer y oe 325 IBS) MINS Coos gobs become eros poco euES COME EEE EE Ce EE herr Ae e Se eyoe = | 2LE Carbone. ore set ee Nae Morale lfoearaduicve irainie feeyereiloeetale eyes is cee eens 326 AT SPUN SU OU arateyey stat aye tare isievayay tereeee vey ereieae afd VA xchat hfay AeMaLenSy secs cyont, | Aces aL Seat IRR Crolidlesa, Chirac ete Goa k Aas Soa Ne ee Re ea aer aa ecco 322 eA eu ovale es sees sk So Se SS oe eS aie a Sle estou bparcteier elise ey er 326 NEEM EMIS) TATE) aa Sere is AA ny Oc UE aoe ok ua ete aaa 323 Marshalls; miners Mee aia eee Bef Ge Wale alg ak 324 VAIS LOMNIE CA eee ais Sein Oe Oat ee ae hain AES UN A le as 323 hock Sprimee seco tobe Mice sss e le ek ewe AE ULNA CL pea ee ees es 327 Mian see ce eis tucle eye Ae Sia Cs e Sule IS aS NCR aca peg Ea Ree LES oc) 328 AVILA) Alpe tte ie eae es ay ee SIRS ANN is an ges yu eo Nd Age PL 327 AWVall SOTAAS pTIVIAT Oem Ss oon ere ae aes ee aac Se Webern eae athe 325 Wiromins Merritotycss ss. 2e) 22 DOOMED Boo Ear neaae Baa 4ao aoueoe =) e326 Coleoptera, catalooue of, by Dr..G. Ho dorms. 2.2.2.2. Sea 469 CWoestillopisivierceees ecu crea c ie oe Sinan ene EOL UT Be) lagu sa ieee Lea 200 CuO RAPEUIVe yee seins We ain Lee Mh AM i I in ue tk ised Le Nap aage 200 DIS HTC pl uTOn Gram (ere e ccm h ese Cac ST a sateen) i aetal tee etal A eet 197 PATEICA MI SAG cee ae eines Sie eh ETN ee he SN ee Aol ca len aR Ne 213 OUI Labbe itera Sea een WA ease nie isc aue cl alata ea fn anal eee Cea es 217 IN OT EH ETO Merk Ra ane LAR eine as OULNY Mee cua Teenie (ate SUE Se 217 ANN etera CLL EEG sve Te 2a yet ee US ot SCM ce RS slay gs ge ANS ROU Mg aaa 232 Gree eau Iyer ao lekki 2 2 A 8 cei AO eee sa a Ae ie A oe Ue ea 233 ISHGTE NLRs TEER ty IN ge 8 Ga RM A Md eM one se, 2) eee 237) Hivisions boundaries oie tale Med UNA Ue le Repel ek WON 195 CASLOLISS eee Sale siarke wal vole) elaneiad a eet BA UNIS ater ix deat ed ea el NER Cy Ue 196 SWIES BOLI SS clare cael is sia ocean IMS MAN SS pone Ee ac eis SUH ARM Rae ee Sg 233 astermssection, (east. of Black, Hills )- 02 252. 00s ee ae ee 226 EN AIONS elISb Ole ee erate Mele ee cee Le Lm a Ch i eevee let Su teeyl 205, 490 Baslves-a(dossily) by Dr Jelly oes e cee es ake eee UI ais Ce 368 SUSU EXO) OTS ei SRN aaa eNO aU II RU NA I st eee heey Us ey cen Ua 369 COT ear eyeing ale an CS RL EE Ua Ue Wage Pa 369 (ODEN OG ORs Nee ae iseeiene cea MEWS An IS eek eee ap eb Lael ef 369 AVIA OG NO TET ULS SP Siete eke fe OAT LOL MO ach elas le ea rk or 369 TUCO ait SE eres SN AHS EOL sar Salvin recA LUNE ge mea ee en 370 SUC taale ete ys aie ewe ele ae ee eles er RAN eh elie Sy Pa eh A ee ROO Ly SOW ALCS a ee et seam erate au MRR USING SGU Ube STC RUE ARs ea egy ban eet 370 Fishes and reptiles, (see Reptiles.) Fossil (see Reptiles. y Fossils, general remarks on. HELE Gane 0 area ee aha eee yo OCG list of, by Professor F. “B. Meek ..__- BUC NN lie i as oH te OS Bye oY ag eS Fountaine Qui Bouille River. Bias He as ta an OO A ee echalya Mae EV ih ege tae Gunes eed OIG Geallari ase RVe ral a ees OWA ANOLON Nac: DSLR Is ae at goo RM ee ee SO Gaeitan ree Kesey vecw ies etiae feeeNeu i Wile hay es osu AT eed aN O@ AeA MCA O LU eo e nom pe keen gle Ua NTL ie LS ill Uc iiureel ee, Te) a LO) Grasshoppers eLabe Lull aA nin aaiyte rn eeu avhin OIUNC MEN don Ne MGNRe OCs) cea Uy yay eeg a enue ORT] ESLOHU LIVED DISTT CU eye yee yee a NANO MOL Arak! aa ee CU age FELATIBEOE SP TIN] OF Viallll ey; este Ey ses Ne MU MEG a ML iden Ol ee ea ce 238 Erd scrap ple Cree kaen esi wa sea vaya anon Wan a se. dc Maserati Sune 216 ieumpyera) catalocuelot bye. dey Uinler esi de. ts) le. Li) | anes ie AT1 Heteroptera, list ote. UG Ne NOD hs aa ine nanan it HORN ALL! 471 Le Yommogeyonissd Be ned eel haha EG ce IO AN Paes a) See a Oe eae ea STE Nn Tae g(a 198 508 INDEX. Homoptera, WMSbOf saa cscs canis oa saete sisi noolseceicisisise y= tele ae cel ee eee eee soe 472 TSLO1p IS)OMUNES, se ceg cond poceas 6552 655og9 Socasa5bSos S505 ce tace Sseosn s=s ose secs 199 ING IRNS Soe oes Se a co as gag Seno ase ao cece Se SS se gs ma sansa On Senses seass | EE Imtroduction torAcricultural Reporte 2. -- «ess eses seco eee eee eee eee eee 192 Jordon Valley sce joccss Sco cisete clave sidewa\seisie Dab eel ey aS SE ee eee 240 malo mViaill eyes eters ree etalecro met aaltey ar ranientc BONO Ba pebUweEeDosdoinz bo eesca ccs 243 IKemeYS) Wall ehycs ooo soem soon cacenG SaSn6S Gob=s5 S42 oso Semon soscd4 SoSSco6s Pr 244 Kansas, resources) of, by. R. iS. Elliott, esq)e- sss. sesecacs]- (oes ee eee eee eens, and oramts) lel jeck oc lsnicc ser sioetoc ete lalsice iss auwisiowe mals esate Sees eee 261 aramiule yrs aim Slr layte elenatalere ae eis alee eee eine ala eta erat enone a eee ee 220 Malad Viale yee 2 tcyica\sioeinle Dieter = atsiatoie’ ata \oceisies /s)a,sieian sine v ley Se nee ree eee eee 238 Mammaliass (Gossil™) bys Dred aeldya nc cce a ohmic le sisi seer eee eee eee 340 ANeluro dome se iisviat (olla l= swlnlo ls ale annie ale earaiteie) ese eee eee 344 ACTIOCHOCLUS ese ese ieee ee 7h sib Sie ce Oi tay Sh A 349 ATP IRIGY OM. Hare = \alseiayacisio sieieiieie is sole cis penises eee eee ote Sak ANTONY ONS aoc odogsgese non. csdose conceunoaset cacciee see eee eae 362 Cani6 i ieisrer ea tet totter a SUI PE a ea 341 COSOTYRaneewer erie ieee cision elec soe cee Se eae eee eee 301 Delphinus) 2 2ecteeei less eases eisin soa Once sanasisten cess eee eee 365 Dicobylesec/.seseeecesec ates see see Ne Bo Were ree 352 Dimiebisissooans-scest wes Vesa Se ee ee eee 343 Drepanodone ccs wsice ee a tein shee tibes Ao cle Ae eee ee eee 343 Mlephas-c- Senseo ce bect eee cnereeeeee sore cette eee eeeee 359 Blotheritim.c 5 ssc sicase .eteicn) ne ska eme ene Seer tee ene eee 303 Pippanlony.s2ssakesheslwe Soe at eee as el ee Reeve ee A ae 360 Iomocam elus ss sa-S532 323-3552 2622 25 soe Sac eee eee eeeee 390 ELV NOGOW Fees elect cece SSS os od Sect ok See aes ae eee eee 342 Ely opsodusieesasace ose aanise See ee ee Cones Cee ee ee eee ae 304 Fy OpobamiUus esate aeons eerie eee ee eee eee Oe eee 355 IELypohippus:-cess ee i os See eae en eee eee ee 362 Tyracodon Se ons sate ssduies elses eee I ee eee 356 PLY MACH US eee ee inet aro le ee a te ea re etn ee 307 FLY Strix =)- 6). todd e eee esdcice seeeocsck eecencacectos see eee 364 TetoOps, ci. sb sss cee le Soe keel shee ha sce Skee See eee ee CEO: Ischyromys -.\25 a3 eaitenese lt decd ococee eee Some oe oe See ea OOS eptarebus -- 2s2aseso25 22 Saadas soso SS sane eiee | =r ee tee eae mL Leptauch ena: 4325,2 285.35 xs ses setee Seis sisal eel ie eS Leplomenyx i515 cie Saas US sate aks oo en Stee eee ee eee ee OL Leptochoernus) 2-2. = 22 s..2sssc2 fos scsis se peiscsssees ne See Deptichis 2.2. -secs selina en te ee eee ee Lophiodon. :. 22. sce tee ce eels ee eC) lem ns ed Lophiotherium..... 225252252 2202522 <2 kee ee ee Mastodon .a.2s. oc <2 o an 2h S555 Seen oe eee eee eS Megacerops 2-2 - -s<\-5 + secio-= oe one eee nee eae Merychippus-. -------.-----------------------------+------------ 361 Microsus-< see eeu cot Sos os oe eee ee eee pee ee eee Mylodon:: 222m. 0b beeke ccs ce teh cat tye tee E ee See ee ace Nonohyusi 2523 soi 00sec esa dede se des ee ees oe ee eee Omomyssssos-=4=5 Cer Oréodon’:...<2s2t3hs cons -2 ok ee re Palssocastor sec) ac/2s 25. ve eee eee ee ee ee INDEX. 509 Wieramelbin, Tee yolbyans 6 6a 55 sbkecsoeehe cone catcnneeesococeeneececoseecce a | BER IPP NOSOIS ood doles ee kee BR eeceen doce eco ncneconocerh eet eeees tere ce 8% IP ATA TPP US ess ee eee eratela ate eeu ci aie else an ae olcleheietel= oretelaic tales eretera tere ODS LEP TO DE LURE Oe Oe Gene ee ten UNCC M ECAR maaie RSE AATaeSsnabe, axl! ere cers oye seer. chaos ite sieve lala) ave pee al elses Seep ala ae onde re IDEN AO Be ook ARR Oe Sebo ranes -ondeeesedremarten, aoe Roebrotmertunas seni: =/s)4/) soysiaaeisenialshaac satel ated etate) ara) otal oar rata a Procamelusyae hese ie iss ok ea tay Sh a arpa; Satna as oho oss) Sivoo a oe OOO IBrOGOUA Cysts Stee ety i 5a acta ate ima fvat ote) apa ace anesthe IP OMO MYDD wo Gabe SOAS RE BBeo CO CHOBEEeobEEOboerenenseerecenee ene | AY) Isa HO eels Gabe ae Moseeorone aoecouopodeTseas mesons seosesHeaoeas ohh MIMO CETOSse seals eetenieiee siecle eet ieiseiaeinecine cetera 356 JUNO WMA EKO Co BE 8s dood6o coseas shouEs boomed Na csnieieves eee 354 Mammals and Birds, catalogue of, by Mr. Stevenson...-...----..----.---.----- 461 Mollusca, catalogue of, by AME SUB Robertaec cs asim inca ae oad aia 467 Meteorology, by BNI Wi Beaman Wace tc wo i USC bh DONE ns Peper alice Moro Valley noc coOdooS AeHeSs Unaess Séen ond SbFabndnCDasrosedpoe Sees seco cuoNs 194, 213 Sonat TP AO a Us GS Ce Ma ea ceed eal DSTA Dione ad C1216 North Platte District. SNE ys Ne ea OU! CEOS ED Le ep PR Ree ey PAC ean eee | O17/ Ocate Creek..........---- wlaWieicajanta sue Pelee tis by ape A Sate aaa. ees an eeilley Orthoptera, list of, by Prof. ICA Thomasy re tag Un ae gh B91) Sar ING Win SPECIES be rcre ye setters mer Dutta peice ae esp ope ata: sitayrstere eas kre SOOO EG /SGROMGT A NTIS) VIET OES SEB poco bees Boe eee oS uoEoo meee coaceoeEEeorose eile Ama bris Ste Ve DSOMIM ire es ee ree ieee eens oe 266 AME EUS Wabi ooksce dbsceo cuccoe Soe 9 doooee bd00 booSUBSosene Sane 267 iBoopedons nuloilumess sess see elses eats ee rete? Booped ony Mavo-faciavuine ieee ese cele) ciel esl arate cise la oh ye etal Brachypeplusiema onu se seaeiee eee essa eee ee ee eee oe eae IE phippinyoMayeracilipes ers async seer ans eset easyer al ee ae Opabinoelycommlbinesiod 6 esoous cusussousods ed ab epee Shee nbeasorecccss Ut! Oedipodaycarlneian alee saree nyo rae liaise pte ates ae Odo @eaipodlay Cia cta ye eee ie eT AS ays 8 ie UA ale PIR NDZ oy Oedipodameclec tamer saci enya nery epee tee, Soren a sere ae see earn OAC Medapod a trrtas erat ayers ae aan oc rs sey eye epee As ple Ne al yaar i ere ee aR OTA Opomolameo-mexd cana ysis sees eter ellaiaes seen ee OO REZ OLED UR UGTA hye ee y ee ay se eI bec ate LS i a app een 71 StavronopuUsel MOth se eS woe Maw een ee ye Nea ayee ee = oer ae 277 SLO OO WMI YDIS: ANTON Laan code Gond sbanacooab bcuacocadccocuboses > Del) Stenobothrus obionus..-.--.-.-.---------- Pi lua yet) heat aseiae Ey 279 Stenobothrusiquadri-maculatus Yas.) joe seh see aoe 280 AVNET EVO ARGC 5355 Gods abaoodeeou soao bobo cos ona cusoeee 268 Pham NOt ZONIpPUTpUNASCe TS yy eee reese ae eae ee eee 268 Momonotusmpseudo-nielanuseae ey aoe eee eee nee eee eee eee eee eee 279 Paleontological report, preliminary, by Prof. F. B. Meek.........-..------.--.- 287 asiOraluandsyand. StOCK-TAISING 252. ja.) 2e oe sata la) cla a arsiajal a elojafaelayesieiate sets eels 248 IRECOSMVAI CY eee caus ease oes ec. e SE 2 ees MEN 2S SLUR) Bd hades Ld yh aL ea oe 207 IRC HASCOMV ANON Gs circ aloe cealaieacla, cUisla ceils oitalaniacp stots bm Stats he ease estate 204 Jeleing, “INNG6.09 Beebe Boo Eses cTdocoCrE aoc DoUnoE Bobb oes ade bibode posomeEH eae O ne 257 mise (BOSssily KC TretaCeOUs).. so. seis scies oa) asiape see) acorns safest are 378 Report on yet. Wesqueretscse asa ee nd seers. alcatel ete 370 MOT UAT jis ote pene s twtziclat eestor spa eiaiate rete auc taiete ta ate Sareea ey eat 331 New species, Lygodium neuropteroides ..-.....--.---.-------. 384 CataloguelotsbyeDra@C) Party 222s ees nana neen eee ane eee 484 ona Boi Cad One MAO Be Ceicetemeadeooear ae cd aeeseaa ee, . ve New species, Carex Haydeniana. Bbdagasicebooapcosecsesoessoescoescss | Ge Eritrichium eas SEU CO BOO EE Sane BORG Arita Seon nS 79 Productions of Utah. . eee ndenenied daeicoceacn soosashooundascoocsesausodsas | | BEY NO Mexico: (ee te ene 5 SO INCU UN Sat Ege eo mOnG IPEBIO ches cccbs SRS PASS ee eRe S ee REC near eE EOFS ee eoeorn Seep eece enon staat | Cals ERRELC ORO RUDE MVVE SU se )2)-\ airs) ee aia stay eer Qa NL OV 2 SU CLA eee (DS lPiaanioiiy any Gitodes Sessa eeee oboe couu ooo re Eoe at eGo Saco BuEucoeRScStoKeoscoek. | CIS RecmyeU AO LEOK 5) Soya) is taints Soa, wooden sha tia Se Mires Se alos 3 ee Ae eae yA Aig SURO Reports, special. . Sbd GbccbegncoccHecoduesoceessscccseoenee | | SEE Report, Agricultural, by Prof. C. THOMAS see ec re re eae Cie em OC alecontolopical iby; ETOr hay ba Mee kes seen ence eae etree eee eee ae eee 510 INDEX. Page. Report on Tertiary Coal, by. J.-T.-Hodge, esq... .:.2- 222.02 oe eee co ae oe aoe ae on Ancient Lakes, by J. 8. Newberry, aT DS oe ida EO ER 329 on Vertebrate Fossils, by: Brot. Ji-Leid ye 224 4202 5255 esa eee 340 on Fossil Plants, by Mr. aut Lesquereux Vise pees eee so CER ee 370 on Fossil Reptiles and Fishes, by Prof. E. D. Cope ....-.--.--. JEL e eee 385 on Fishes of the Tertiary Shales, by Prof. E. D. Cope ..--.. ..-.-..-..- 495 on: Reptiles and! Hishes, by Prof. E. D. Cope -- 22225222222 22222 eae ee 432 on Material Resources of Kansas, by Mr. R.S. Elliott ...... ..---. Ses, 442 Reptiles;andishes, by Prot... Copelsasee ee eeeice ae eee eee eee eee 432 WMS Gs tno ee atresia tis ciety I an ae 432 New species: Albuernellus-percobromus 2-33.05 25225.) 2282 ee 440 Catostomus discobolus...-...- wie dete Sed S Se Aa 435 Ceratichthys-squamilentus: ---2 2522 25825522 a2 ee 442 Coliscus. parietalisi; 223222) 5 22055 ee eee er 437 Cyprinellasbillinesianassss 3255252555552 55 soe ee 439 Gila ma@ereatevoes.) S202 Soha a Bea ae ee 441 Tey DOPSISKE OTe OMUS sense es see eee ERE nS 429 Hybopsis missuriensis. - ---. PUGH OGUEHOD bem osn boShe6 coeses 437 Eybopsis: seyllac2 22 sesh so oa a apa 438 PbyChostomus| DUCCOs aaa ees eee See eee 437 Minomus bards is /oese gas Ay SF 9 62 UNO E ALe in re Ny ee an A236 Man onus td/elpinmu srt Ney eyeyies i sara oie) epee ecg) eae 435 Monionanjugalis ss 5.454550) 5350 es OEE ee 439 Photogenisypiptolepisasa sas se eee a ee eee 438 Salm oistomias ss /2as3 52502322 52 5o se ee eee 433 Sarcidium scopitenum ise ssa eee eee eee 440 Reptiles and fishes, (fossil,) by Professor E. D. Cope... 222222) 22 2-22 111 Apsopelixisauritormiseass hese ao Sales sense aes ter sae eee a 424 ASINEO PS SCUAMIPLONS 2/222 se cies | ee ee 426 IASIM COPS) VAT ONSISt aes ieee ea eee ope eee ee 426 Clidastesimberme dius acme saat ea eee re eee ae ee eee 412 C@lidas tes ciaxe revenue eyo) Se ie peta rateey ara) yao ae 413 C@lupeathumillisy saber s Net yet ares enter iale al steerer ee 429 Clupear pusilla cet sy faye ee AOE Ie sary ES abe eal er ee 429 Elasmosaurus platyurus.--...--..-.-.-- RUA my ee tise) SiO 8 393, 424 TismMatopverus/TichiSecleriee= ==. e ee eee eee eel eee eet 428 ETIsmMALOPbETUSHy Cavs eset tarsal eee ee rears a 428 lchthyodectesrevenod ones ss =e eee eee eee eee eee 421 Liodons dyspelor ik ye eae BO EN A eee eae Re 410 ELOMODMLETERI CUS) ieee lay MNF nt SE ORIOLE OE Reape neo 406 Hiodonmud cee ssa seeee rere teers weiss te Sel es Arsene 405 Liodon proriger -..--- wee aa te Lear Es ATAU I eee aes 401 MOSaSaUrUS MuUSSUPIENSIS\e a4 elses eee ele ee eels ee ae ee 401 Osteoslossumtencanstum==- ees e ee se eee eee eee 430 Poly cotylus! tabepinmisy-ey3- 2) -)is- apt See ae lo ee eee eee 388 Saurodonileamus! esse Bes Peele ay ee esate eee 421 Saurocephalus; audax: 21.5 S262 hes ee seein eee ae ere ee 418 Saurocephalusilanciformis}-s5-— eee eee eee eee eee es Ses 415 Saurocephalus)phiebotomust=-222-s-ce-eneee eee eee ee eee eee 416 eSaurocephalusyproom abuse eee. ele eee leet el eee A417 Saurocephalus: thaumasts25 22-262 Sees aoe ee eee 418 Reptiless(ossil}) by Dr: Jtheidiyaj ease en eee nie ee aielae eae ee eee eee 365 Baenar: socks 22a soe ues Wits es oye EE ee per 367 Baptemys iis: ssosni ees le oe bee cease mine eo era eee ee eee 367 Crocodilusned +s. ce see ec ie See fe Lo. SOD ee oe see eee 368 MVS ee see bees SH es Se EN les ee 366 ANEW aN see 12k SS SE ee I re ey ae 368 DhyAetMy Sis cis cil ees ed a es oe aL eh 366 PRON YS soca roe s veo se Sie Sse ee eee 367 Resources of Kansas, pe RaSs Both... 5.424 ceadse se hae eee ee 442 INCOM) Ghee Sey ne eee eee em tee Suse NRA Se ne ee 198 Hivide Sauta BSc sole .kllese.l: il 206 - FioGallisteose sess. 2 Beaches tor see see ee anes ee ee ese o eae ee eee 206 ETOH Gl ay Soe iter 5 Se one Sreee ee cemte ae ite ifbwies sth culos. eelieeme ses ee 208 hio:Grande District . 2522.5 sc25c2 cohen so 5k S82 Leese se hee cee ceeeeeeee 197 River sos jabs sesso sages s leas swiss ded apse ees Sages ee ee Walley ooc< cle ceec sets d sconces 5 SGU CNER ashi eee rn INDEX. 511 VEG) WGN OTST nS aE Na ene A ee OR en Uae at eee SE Ie! OS: PERT OM GS ATUL LTD py arp la BSR Real carats IN ayes Loa Sel Ale NE eye al a en OL) L@ Wat Eee Dee ASE EOUE AAR BH AMC GO om mCab en Samah Ear eeen \ eke JRSO: \VEE NS SGC Re Se ee Uee Soe er SS OCAER toupee ~Sbeeaeoecemee co eal! SalliwabChws asim ep ysrs see epi eae AE Vea ee us cayenne ete 2 pela. ay veld Serpe OS Oe ee ete a os EIEN Bens Seiya as SE eens. cree i ales cy 1 LS 3) RRNA DEM) ABP ASS OTL ee Ie oa ee eS eee Ree rue Ree el sarees Se) 10) Wallle\ycoes oboe oci0s ooausesueao soos boseedeebarosasocatocesosecosscen | 2B sii 1h) Welley oes ocile ce ceca ch oumerepeEeacuecaaerao dooce neceereeenescce, Lz POLOGUCLUONSY OB espe sere (eile ay sR) REAR kB ane aot ud et reas Sam ieee, WeMlleneies Sic Sood boa oe odors DUBE noEE Ce neeEocoeMoreEueonEemecsaceeaase. lt! Gn OT PEGIIV ET NE ASTIN Meine ayay al hyarelec cet cyt a rey Megane cy) x) ani a apne erat ayiape of paren 244 SUIS, Navadls Ie iCOll sek oo Be Reoobabede dodbed 66 Ge She ber SoboSsn soap osemeeeaeeeoce 468 fresh-water, J WSHARCG) Beeet ngs ee wt at SAU eee ee ey Ree creme oye 468 (fossil, ) new species, by Professor F. B. Meee PAMAS OMY, OMG METAL Clie a cele slayer aya reine a= als) ret at a pert ees 312 INTC ai parallel seu. jue NN oe NDS oe eaten aietn std aie nay ere aie 303 ARGO AON) MNP MONO oF eke honed ood e eg eee bees Seeece cone 309 By. Lhine lay ome ard aes sa sayactcr siete nae A eae ete ep aycio Se faye sel Seis Sete rere 317 Cardaumelcamsasemsesaiiaien ey -ys sre nc yee ave a ape ny eee aL aa ne yee 307 PAUP SL uw eM Me UREN eC WAVE he alae ena ere has aA ee ee 306 BAUM OMS ears eae Nes ai UAE Sl 22) suas iy ate a a a ea ears 306 Corbicullaxcrassatellit orn See shes eyes arate eral eee nae apo 315 (EAS Gee KC He) BORA CE Ts TSS pene Sn es ae bee 314 (vam calli esi eta so So ae (ieee ee ee eR eee ear 304 3 Bulcrieomalirgui nyc Ak ad suelo (Ni olay ies See RMT ane a 305 Crassatellina oblonga SYN Re ARON IL LS ES BN TB aetna 301 iB dimondiavaspennyallem sist sae sees ree ase ieee eee 299 Gomrobasisielimys allilis) ye 752 eS se eT ee 3) Bia ypc e arabe ariatiey er ott 316 PLO CU ATEN EY ees Seals EDO a oH NS Ca ao AL ey are 316 NO CERAIMUS EMS eee sys aa savy pele al coals ay ala al Sy asl eae 302 Pemlbeptosolem comragi asi 2.08 seis vst 2) asin Gaile eae gat Mee ee oa 311 IMMleKcireah (GY) CANS hos eseseede Hoeses casuse eases 4aderons sugleceods 308 ae laymmyeui (2) CEU CAL aye sere ce alia Me ae ye fly a eet een ei eres 301 APES HWA OMIM SENSIS yc) ei Nc a NS eet sat ay ca ete pees 310 Paplellimansmbscnbuilay eb c sie elt Bae ee ka easter speee le We a ee eee Eye 310 Voldiapmircrodombaee ea cee ies ONT ee Pelayo bt cia aqui Mey aye vee 304 PRU DOM means) see yee Mee SLUTS eI Ue TINA) a 8 seer aioe 313 diurratellapeleam Sas eu SS yeas pe esas sere cca iale vaya lta Nes ae ey er 312 Winropleamuls ee eee eles crea De UU AS AL VE 10 a i a a ene 313 Wimlonm STAGE MSTS ee ee Nees SLE I Oe SS VCE aye nia t/a ara e lau ay 303 Wmiogwashaksl ensi seer iy jeri aie sei seyret eee Janeen eens eens 314 TEESE IS) (CLT GEL CSAS 2 ee SN PR OL Se ee 255 BIMITO ET CIV sed NG ypeeeee yen ecspere ey rea a CUM Ue SOQ i aL ay cle ae ae oe 242 plremeheray Cree ki aaa ue ae ee a ae ek a ae ole 2 ee Se RR ae ae 200 BIRT ETE ON OTC Keres eran HCas eS AST LIM AN LC A aleal in aes el cla tuameba etre er Weta 206 WitainglialcenViailleyscre i Caw H ola Marsha a Ue i aa cmi jul ely ay dala saa yano et 241 Vertebrate Fossils, report on, by Professor Leidy.-.---..----.------------------ 340 WWACTETINII] OM OTE C eee apace eae pe ee SRE ALLAN Se Uae ENS AAs te NaN a IN Me oa) othe) eo 213 WAY G)SXERe WINE SS AERIS AS Oe cae EY Ua Ae eet MOE oN nye OR IES at Ue 239 WVESTETM ID) Tival SHO Masia spa naysyney mune cea MIA eae SIGUA MAR AIA UG lau LE Se Wa sae 233 ING wg Miers COMMU Oem apru rare OY ito L IU EG ee UAE ete Steer hes Ci ya 208 A VEIT UME CLV CENTOS UIT Ciba sees mame er ae en 2 NS PRIOR A I uses Siva deeper 232 RV fcULIN Gry geec ny era arnt ERR NBL OUP ae ae at LA ea Sr AAU Sr 194 VWAIGRI DASE Bata aoe SOO ARSE eI aa I OU aR TNC SP PE NREL SERRE 201 Wwiipele s, Lieutenant, estimate of erat bles Learned og Queenie iit sien OER) shu uta eae 204 So