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PROFITABLE

FRUIT-GROWING

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(Tbr et!lorsl)ipfiil Compaitn of Jfruitmrs'

PRIZE ESSAY

JOHN WRIGHT, F.R.H.S.

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THIRD EDITION.

LONDON :
MAY, 171, FLEET STREET, E.C

All Rights Reserved.

LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

1 FT OF

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Accession. 96963 Q0ss V

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PKOFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

PROFITABLE

FRUIT-GROWING

FOR

COTTAGERS & SMALL HOLDERS OF LAND.

BY

JOHN WRIGHT, F.R.H.S.
•i

Assistant Editor of the Journal of Horticulture; Editor of Garden Work; Author

of Mushrooms for the Million; and Allotments— their Advantages and

Utilisation; Member of the Fruit Committee of the Royal

Horticultural Society.

WRITTEN FOR

3x3or6hipful Company of jfruiterera,

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

LONDON):

E. H. MAY, 171, FLEET STREET, E.C.

1891.
Third Edition.} [All Riyhto Reserved,

DEDICATED

BY PERMISSION
TO

Honourable

SIR JAMES WHITEHEAD, BART.

i

LORD MAYOR OF LONDON

BY THE

WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF FRUITERERS

1889

96963

PREFACE.

IN the preparation of this Essay I desire to acknowledge my indebted-
ness to Mr. E. P. Roe, an American author, for the small figures (p. 26)
on planting Strawberries, which were reduced from his excellent work
entitled Success n-itk Small Fruits, London publishers Messrs. Seeley,
Jackson, and Halliday, Fleet Street. I have to thank Mr. A. Pettigrew,
Cardiff Castle Gardens, for photographs of Apple and Pear trees, repre-
sented on pp. 81, 93. It is right to add that the illustrations on
grafting, pp. 109, 110, were taken from the Jounial of Horticulture.
The remaining thirty-three engravings are original. Those re-
presenting Currant and G-ooseberry branches, both in a resting and
bearing state, were sketched from bushes grown by Mr. E. Molyneux
at Swanmore Park. I have grown many similar to them, also every
kind of plant, bush, and tree referred to in the pages.

Varieties of fruits, notably of the most important— Apples — have
been chosen for their usefulness, earliness in bearing, with good
appearance and quality of the fruit, rather than for the predominance
of some one particular merit esteemed by connoisseurs ; and, as far as
possible, those sorts have been included which have proved the most
productive in generally unfruitful years. Slow, shy, and uncertain
bearers, no matter how handsome and excellent the fruit, are not the
most useful for planting by cottagers and small holders in gardens or
fields.

I shall not consider this Essay satisfactory if it does not prove
serviceable to many (at present inexperienced) cultivators of hardy
fruit.

J. WRIGHT.
London, December 1st, 1889.

AUTHOR'S NOTE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The author, while gratified by the generous reception that has been
accorded to the first edition of this work, regrets that the sudden
demand for a re-issue, which has to be prepared with the utmost
possible dispatch, affords no opportunity for revision. The literary
imperfections must therefore perforce remain, but they do not affect
the practical lessons embodied in its pages.

London, October 1st, 1890.

AUTHOR'S NOTE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

As in the case of the second edition of this Essay so in the third. It
has to be produced so quickly to meet pressing demands that the
matter must remain as before, and it is hoped that its usefulness may
equal its acceptability.

London, November 1st, 1891.

CONDITIONS FOU ESSAY

ON

PKOFITABLE FBUIT GKOWING

FOB

COTTAGERS & OTHERS WITH SMALL HOLDINGS.

1. A prize of twenty-five guineas, together with a Gold Medal, will
be offered by the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers for the best Essay
on the above subject, and which shall not exceed 20,000 words.

2. The object is to encourage fruit culture by cottagers and others
with small holdings, as a substitute for, or adjunct to, the ordinary
methods of cropping their gardens and allotments with roots or other

3. The Essay must convey plain details on the selection of the most
suitable varieties of fruits, and the planting, pruning, and other
essential operations in the management of fruit trees and fruit bearing
bushes, also on gathering, storing, and disposing of the crops.

4. The conditions are : O) No person shall be eligible to compete
who has not had at the least ten years' actual experience in the culti-
vation of fruit, and a declaration to that effect will be required from
each competitor, setting forth in what part of the country and in what
locality this experience has been obtained ; (b) The nom de plume or
motto of each competitor is to be plainly written on the top of his
MS., and his name land address with motto are to be sent under seal in
a separate envelope. The envelope containing the Essay is to be
marked on ^»he top left-hand corner with the words " Fruit Essay."
Any departure from either of these conditions will disqualify for
competition.

5. The envelopes containing the names of the competitors will not
be opened until after the prize has been awarded, and Essays (except
the successful one), will be 'returned to those writers of them who
send stamped directed envelopes for that purpose within one month
from the date on which the result appears in the gardening papers.

6. The Essays are to be addressed to the Clerk of the Worshipful
Company of Fruiterers (0. C. T. Eagleton, E&q.), 40, Chancery Lane,
W.C., not later than July 31st, 1889.

Sixty persons applied for and obtained the printed conditions, but
only the number stated below sent in essays. The gentlemen appointed
to examine them were Messrs. T. Francis Rivers, fruit nurseryman,
Sawbridgeworth ; A. F. Barron, Superintendent, Royal Horticultural
Society's Gardens, Chiswick ; and Shirley Hibberd, editor of the
Gardeners1 Magazine.

THE ADJUDICATORS' AWARD.

" Having carefully examined the fourteen essays submitted, we have
unanimously selected that signed ' BRITISH WORKMAN' for the award
of the prize. This essay combines practical knowledge with literary
ability, and complies with the conditions of the competition. A
considerable proportion of the fourteen essays deserve commendation,
and it is a matter of regret to us that we have only one prize at our
command, where perhaps three or four might be worthily awarded.
We would mention those signed ' Pomona,' * Progression,' ' Jabez
Chawley,' and 'Hope On,' as particularly meritorious, although not
meeting with our entire approval in connection with the present
reference.

"T. FRANCIS RIVERS,
"A. F. BARRON,
"SHIRLEY HIBBERD."

The prizes were presented to the successful competitor at the Mansion
House, by the Lord Mayor, on September 2 5th, 1889, the Medal bearing
the following inscription : — " Presented by ROBERT HOGG, LL.D.,
F.L.S., to Mr. JOHN WRIGHT, the successful competitor for the prize
of 25 Guineas, offered by H. R. WILLIAMS, Esq., Past-Master, through
the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers, for an Essay on the Profitable
Culture of Fruit by Cottagers, 1889."

CONTENTS.

PAGE

INTRODUCTION ....••

METHODS OF PROCEDURE . • • • &

EXAMPLES TO BE FOLLOWED . . • • &

PADDOCK AND HEDGEROW VREES . . • 15

FRUIT GARDENS . . • • • .17

STRAWBERRIES * . . •

RASPBERRIES , , . ... 33

GOO?£BERRIES . . . . • 43

CURRANTS . • . • • .56

APPLES ...••• 67

PEARS * . . .91

PLUMS ...... 97

CHERRIES , . • • .103

OTHER KINDS or FRUIT . .105

IMPORTANT ITEMS . . . • .107

CONCLUSION , • . . 116

INDEX , • • • . .118

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

1. PLAN OF GARDEN .... 7

2. BUSH APPLE TREE . . 4 . ,18

3. FRUIT GARDEN . . . . . 19

4. RAISING STRAWBERRIES . . . .24

5. PLANTING STRAWBERRIES ... 26

6. STRAWBERRY EDGING . -. . .27

7. PUNNET OF STRAWBERRIES ... 30

8. PACKING PUNNETS OF STRAWBERRIES . .31

9. CHIP BASKET OF STRAWBERRIES . . . 31

10. PACKING CHIP BASKETS OF STRAWBERRIES . . 32

11. RASPBERRY CANES .... 37

12. RASPBERRY IN BEARING . . . .41

13. GOOSEBERRY CUTTING .... 44

14. GOOSEBERRY A YEAR FROM THE CUTTING . . 45

15. GOOSEBERRY BRANCH, ONE AND TWO-YEAR-OLD

WOOD ..... 48

16. HALF-PRUNED GOOSEBERRY . . .50

17. BEARING -BRANCH AND SUMMER PRUNING OF

GOOSEBERRY . . . . 51

18. A GOOSEBERRY FENCE . . . .53

19. A RED CURRANT BUSH .... 57

20. RED CURRANT, FRUITING BRANCH, AND SUMMER

PRUNING . ... 57

21. GROWTH OF RED CURRANT WITH SPURS AND BUDS 58

22. STANDARD CURRANT . . . .60

23. BLACK CURRANT BUSH .... 64

24. BRANCH OF BLACK CURRANT, SHOWING OLD AND

YOUNG WOOD 65

xii LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS

PAGE

25. PLANTING APPLES . . . . .72

26. BAD PRACTICE IN PLANTING AND PRUNING . 76

27. GOOD PRACTICE IN PLANTING AND PRUNING , 77

28. APPLE BRANCH, WITH FRUIT AND WOOD BUDS . 80

29. A GOOD APPLE TREE . . .81

30. A GOOD PEAR TREE .... 93

31. CORDON TREES . .... 96

32. PLUM TREE PRUNED AND BEARING . . 100

33. PLUM SPUR . . . .101

34. PLUM SHOOT ..... 102

35. A FRUIT ARCH . . . • .106

36. SPLICE GRAFTING .... 109

37. CROWN GRAFTING . • .110

38. APPLES FOR MARKET, SORTED AND UNSORTED 115

CTION

T no former period was such a wide-
spread desire manifested as exists now
for improving the condition of the
industrial population, and for developing the
resources of the soil in the production of an
adequate supply of home-grown fruit.

The necessity for the accomplishment of these
objects is apparent ; for on the one hand we have
men in abundance who, with the aid of sound
guidance, could engage usefully in the work, and
on the other the extraordinary fact of not cities
and towns only, but even country villages, with
fruit-growing land all around them, largely sup-
plied with Apples grown on the western shores of
the Atlantic. It is true we have orchards, but of
what kind? In the majority of instances they are
composed of trees planted generations, not to say
centuries, ago, which can only bear fruit so small,
juiceless, and uninviting, that consumers naturally
purchase the larger and better-looking imported

B

2 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

samples which are so plentiful and so moderate in
price.

If home-cultivators have not had a larger share
of profit in producing the fruit-supply in the
markets, where rests the fault ? A number of
answers, in the form of allegations, are ready to
hand, and have been so often repeated as to have
become common property. Here they are :
Obstructive land laws ; ecclesiastical charges ;
oppressive railway rates ; high market tolls ;
salesmen's exactions ; shop-keepers' extortions ;
free trade, and bad climate. Repeatedly have
these reasons been given in all sincerity, as the
causes of the great importations of hardy fruit.

We can admit the full force of all these im-
pediments, but it will not be difficult to show that
something remains more accountable than them
all for the above-mentioned anomaly. What is
the great omission ?

Mark well the answer. There is not one obstacle,
but three : namely, a lack of knowledge on the
subject of fruit, of enterprise in producing it in
its best form, and of art in placing it before the
public in the most attractive manner for arresting
attention and commanding purchasers.

Granting to Transatlantic cultivators all their
natural advantages, which are possibly over-

INTRODUCTION. o

estimated, still let us not forget our own apathy,
our loose methods, and our unsystematic, unbusi-
nesslike procedure — not forget, but abandon
them ; proceed on sounder principles and more
intelligent lines, then the time will come when we
shall to a far greater extent than now, and far
more creditably, share in providing our population
with the most wholesome of food, which will bp
increasingly required — FRUIT — the outcome of
home effort and well-applied labour in British
gardens and orchards

Let trees and bushes be planted, of varieties ot
proved merit, in soils and situations in which they
will thrive, and they will be growing into fruitful-
ness contemporaneously with the removal of legal
and commercial impediments ; thus those who take
action the soonest will be the first to profit by
whatever changes may be made. Even under
existing conditions, fruit culture, well conducted,
has been of real service to many, and while land
under ordinary cropping has depreciated in value
during late years, that on which young orchards
and thrifty trees are established has increased in
price. What better testimony can be needed of
the improving character of fruit culture? And what
more conclusive evidence is required for its exten-
sion than the predominance of cankered trees and

B 2

4 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

worn-out orchards nearly all over the country,,
with fruitless homesteads and treeless gardens on
every hand ? Let us see what can be done for
those who are willing to help themselves in
increasing the supply of useful, wholesome, hardy
fruit.

METHODS OF PROCEDURE AND EXAMPLES
TO BE FOLLOWED.

First, the principle has to be determined whether
fruit shall be grown as a substitute for, or as an
adjunct to, other crops. With very few exceptions
the latter is strongly recommended. Unless a
small holder of land is sufficiently near a town to
drive in on market-days, with poultry, eggs, and
butter, or any other products of his little farm or
garden, he may not find the cultivation of fruit so
profitable as he anticipates. The grower of a few
hundredweights is so handicapped in respect to
freightage that he cannot compete with the large
fruit farmers in supplying distant markets ; and
whether railway companies reduce their rates for
small consignments or not, with the view to-
developing trade, it is probable that the advantage
will still rest with large consigners.

METHODS OF PROCEDURE. 5

In recognised fruit-growing districts small plots
may be devoted wholly to fruit culture, as regular
channels exist for the disposal of the produce:
but outside those districts the safest method will
be for cottagers, allotment holders, and small
farmers to grow fruit as an adjunct to, instead of
a substitute for, other crops ; they ought to afford
their families an abundant supply, also endeavour
to meet the demands of adjacent towns. As
showing the practical working of the system
advocated, and the advantages of fruit culture,
a few examples may be adduced, as no teaching
is so cogent as that founded on accomplished
facts.

A Farmer's Example. — Thirty years ago a
friend of the writer entered on a small farm and
found a dozen Apple trees. The fruit being profit-
able, he planted about an acre of the adjoining land,
near his homestead, with the best Apples and Plums,
also a few Pears and the usual small fruits. His
wife looked after the minor products of the farm,
and all not required at home were regularly taken
to market. Thrift, industry, and good management,
enabled more and more land to be taken, until the
u small holding" has become one of upwards of a
thousand acres. With every increase of land the
occupant planted some fresh trees, and the dairy,

6 PROFITABLE FKUIT-GROWING.

poultry, and garden produce had the same atten-
tion as heretofore. Now mark the result. From
the beginning until now, what are termed the
" minor products" of the land and homestead have
continued to defray domestic expenses, and these
for the last ten years cannot have been less than
£200 per annum. To this gratifying result, garden
and orchard produce has contributed materially,
indeed, without it the noteworthy achievement
could not be recorded. This once small holder is
now a County Councillor, and his last planted
orchard of two or three acres is adding to his
income from fruit.

A Widow's Example. — An example on a
small scale may be cited next, which shows with
great force the advantages of fruit culture in a
cottage garden, thirty yards long by twenty yards
wide, or practically an eighth of an acre in extent.
This garden belonged to a working builder, who
was an industrious, prudent, saving man. On his
death his widow was left with an annuity of £15 a
year, but with the proceeds of this small garden
she was able to continue in her dwelling, paying
the rent of £5 a year ; she lived in homely comfort
for twenty years, and, in fact, saved a few pounds,
which could not have been done if £10 had not
been made from the garden yearly.

EXAMPLES TO BE FOLLOWED. 7

A plan showing the arrangement and planting
of this useful garden may be instructive. It will
be seen on reference to fig. 1 (below), that the

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Fig. 1. — PLAN OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDEN.
(Scale, 1 inch = 24 feet.)

A Foot-paths. B B Beehives. 0 Apple Trees (6). ® Pear Trees (2).

* Plum Trees (6). Raspberry Canes.

o Currant and Gooseberry Bushes. . . . Strawberries.

garden is divided and surrounded by a path, which
down the centre is three feet wide for the con-

8 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

venience of traversing with a small wheel-barrow ;
the end paths are two feet wide, and those along
the sides eighteen inches, or just sufficient for the
purpose of gathering the Raspberries on the west
side, and Gooseberries on the east. The wider
part of the garden, 36 feet, was set apart for vege-
tables, with an Apple tree in the centre, and bush
fruits all round ; the narrower part, 2 1 feet, being
devoted wholly to fruit culture.

The references show the number and kinds of
trees grown, namely, six Apples and two Pears, as
orchard standards ; six Plums, two continuous lines
of Raspberries, planted as will be described, and a
hundred Gooseberry and Currant bushes. A few
Strawberries were grown across the north end of
the garden near the bee-hives and flowers, the
enclosure being entered there from the cottage.
Originally Strawberries were planted next the
paths, and afforded good crops when the fruit
bushes were small. Owing to the necessarily
reduced scale, the planting appears crowded, but it
is not unduly so, and the arrangement answered
well, as it will do again if carried out with good
varieties in fertile soil. The Apple and Pear trees
are twenty-four feet apart in line, fifteen feet in the
angles, the Plums seven to eight feet ; small bushes
four feet asunder, and half that from the path-

EXAMPLES TO BE FOLLOWED.

sides — all workable distances in single lines and
narrow strips of ground.

What may be regarded as a fair average return
from the above number of trees and bushes when
in a full bearing state? Taking one year with
another, it will be conceded the following is a
moderate computation for trees and bushes in full

bearing :

£ s. d.

6 Apple and 2 Pear trees, at 7s. each 2 16 0

6 Plums, at 3s. each ... • 0 18 0

100 Gooseberry and Currant bushes at Is. each 500
160 feet line of Raspberries 160

£10 0 0

During some years the crop of one or other of
the kinds failed, a natural incident of fruit culture,
but it is quite certain the amount named was
realised annually during a period of twenty years.
That is a lesson from life of the usefulness of fruit
well managed in a cottager's garden.

A Labourer's Example. — Although the above
demonstrates the value of fruit in the gardens of
cottagers, another case may be adduced in confirm-
ation. A labouring man who worked for several
years in a garden with the writer had an enclosure
attached to his cottage. His wages averaged from
twelve to fifteen shillings per week. He was an

10 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING

active worker, and strove hard to save a little
money by rearing pigs, keeping a cow, and making
the most of his garden. This was rather more
than an eighth of an acre in extent. It contained
eight or nine Apple trees, some of which he grafted
with improved varieties, and grew under and be-
tween them as many Gooseberries, Currants, and
Raspberries as he could, also marginal rows of
Strawberries. Two-thirds of the ground was thus
occupied, and the remainder devoted to early
potatoes and other vegetables; a field allotment
plot of a rood affording him a supply of late pota-
toes and other roots for winter use. He died at
the age of fifty, but left his widow in a position to
open a small shop, and by carrying on the work he
initiated in the garden, and other ways mentioned,
she not only brought up her family, but orphan
grandchildren also, without calling on the parish
for a penny. This is an example of what can be
accomplished by persevering effort with the pro-
vision wisely made in the form of fruit-trees and
bushes.

A Tradesman's Example. — Fruit-trees en-
hance the value of property, and homesteads on
which they are established let better in consequence.
An instance can be given. A tradesman purchased
some village property and erected small cottages.

EXAMPLES TO BE FOLLOWED. 11

In each plot of ground attached he planted 10s.
worth of frui, trees and bushes, with the result oi
readily letting the dwellings at a rental of £4 Kk,
though it was originally intended to charge only
four guineas for them. As the tenants left, and the
trees came into bearing, the rents increased to £5.
It is not suggested that everyone who planted
similarly everywhere would reap the same advan-
tage, but the fact remains that the rent of land
occupied with thrifty fruit-trees has been rising
during the past few years, while much land that is
fruitless has been falling in value.

An Allotment-Holder's Example. — During
the preparation of this essay the following letter
was received from Mr. William Jacob of Petworth :

" Nothing is more refreshing to me than gardening and
fruit-growing, in which I have been interested from quite
a boy, and have now had sixty years' experience. I never
yet met with a man whose theory upon any subject
was equal to practical experience. The field of allotments,
of which my garden forms a part, has about fifteen
tenants. It was formerly worked by the landlord as a
cornfield. He could not make it pay, so made it into
gardens, about forty rods each, and I should think the
value of the produce from the land is upwards of £400 a
year from fruit and vegetables ; and the owner realises
an annual rental of nearly £35 per annum. I give £5 10s.
for only seventy-five rods, but it is in the best position
and worth more than the rest."

Here was once a corn-field that did not pay, now

12 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

yielding a rental of between £8 and £9 an acre,
and one of the tenants paying at the rate of more
than £11 an acre. Yet he has not a word of corn-
plaint, but on the contrary is well satisfied with
the profit he derives from his culture. The essayist
has inspected the plot, which is almost entirely
occupied with fruit-trees, enclosed with a hedge
of Raspberries, which this year gave a yield of
upwards of two quarts of fruit to the lineal yard.
This fruit-plot is remarkable for its productiveness
— the result of high cultivation and well-chosen
varieties.

A Landlord's Example. — Passing from cot-
tagers to small farmers, landlords may find it to
their advantage to plant a few fruit-trees for striving
tenants, also for securing good tenants as holdings
become vacant. Again an example will be illus-
trative. A gentleman of property, who under-
stands fruit culture, has planted an acre of land
next the homestead of one of his tenants, with
Apples, Plums, and bush fruit, the extent of the
holding being about thirty acres. The trees are
all standards, the Apples eight yards apart, in rows
about ten yards asunder, the Plums closer in the
rows. In the lines with the trees, not in the
spaces between the rows, Currants and Gooseberries
are planted five feet asunder. The space between

EXAMPLES TO BE FOLLOWED. 13

the rows is wide, for the purpose of being worked
with the plough, and cropped with roots or what-
ever the farmer prefers, or he can grow Straw-
berries or more bush fruits if he chooses to raise or
procure them. He can, in a word, either make
the whole into a fruit garden and keep it as such,
or grow vegetables for market, or roots for stock,
so long as there is space between the trees ; then
as these spread the land can be sown down for
forming an orchard on grass. Whatever method
may be adopted will be of advantage to the tenant,
and the trees, being of good varieties, will enhance
the value of the land. The owner having pur-
chased the trees, planted and staked them well,
will also prune them for a year or two, till good
heads are formed; the tenant can then easily
manage them ; and he can have no pretence to
a claim for compensation when he leaves, no
matter how valuable the trees may be. The
plan is an excellent one, worthy of more general
adoption. It is perfectly just as between landlord
and tenant, and may be of service to both.

A Society's Example. — Provincial Horticul-
tural Societies may usefully aid in the work which
it is the object of the writer to promote. He had
long been aware of the admirable practice of the
Granthara Horticultural Society in distributing fruit

14 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

trees and bushes among the cottagers and artizans
of the district ; and the following record of the
work, obligingly supplied by the Honorary Secre-
tary, Mr. William Olive Yeatman, proves how
satisfactory it has been. " We commenced," writes
Mr. Yeatman, " giving fruit trees in 1874, and
vegetable seeds in 1878, and continued these gifts
until 1885, when we had pretty well stocked the
villages around Grantham. We distributed 1,672
fruit trees — the best sorts of Apples, Plums, Pears,
and Apricots ; 2,006 fruit bushes ; 458 collections of
vegetable seeds and potatoes. The result has been
that not only have those persons who received
these gifts made their gardens profitable to them-
selves but that we now have a first-rate fruit and
vegetable market at Grantham. Another result
has been that numbers of persons who had not
been recipients, seeing their neighbours' gardens so
much improved, have followed their example. We
sent forms to the clergyman, squire, or a farmer in
each village, to be filled in with the names and
addresses of persons most worthy of encourage-
ment, and the number and kinds of trees most
suitable for their gardens."

Honourable mention is due to the Society in
question for having initiated the good work and
carried it out so well. Cannot other societies fol-
low the excellent example ?

PADDOCK AND HEDGEROW TREES. 15

PADDOCK AND HEDGEROW TREES.

Isolated trees are often wanted for purposes of
shade in paddocks, and instead of these being haw-
thorns, elms, sycamores, and others, why cannot they
be Plums and Damsons, Apples, and Pears ? Where
wild trees grow well, fruit-trees will thrive if care-
fully planted and protected from stock. They will
also grow in hedgerows where the land is of good
staple, the same as Damsons are grown in Kent,
and Apples in Nottinghamshire and Worcestershire.
Many a holder of from five to twenty acres of land
might grow orchard fruit enough for his family in
that way, and have some to spare, without occupy-
ing the land he has under ordinary cropping.

When trees are isolated, or in hedgerows, they
must be strong in constitution, as they have to
resist more wind than in orchards. The Prune
Damson, Czar Plum, Hessle Pear, and Bramley's
Seedling Apple, are good. The full value of this
Apple for standards (on the true Crab stock) and
exposed positions is not generally known. A
farmer's orchard of one and a half acres, last year,
a notoriously bad Apple year, yielded fruit on
fifteen-year-old trees that sold for £70, the pur-
chaser gathering the crop, and the farmer has
scores of trees coming into bearing round his fields.

16 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Large stations are important for planting in
the positions indicated. The soil should be broken
up to a depth of two feet, and a width of six
feet or more, removing a few barrowfuls of the
subsoil, if inferior, and adding better, taken from
the surface elsewhere, preferably of a turfy nature.
Grass should not grow within two feet of the stems
for a few years, nor weeds, but a thick covering of
manure spread on in the autumn, and there left to
decay, will do good. The trees must be staked,
taking particular care that the ligatures are kept
from the bark with a few soft willow twigs between
the stem and the stake. These prevent abrasion,
while admitting air, thus the stem is not made
tender, and liable to be affected by canker.

It is also absolutely necessary to prevent the
stems being nibbled by rabbits or sheep. A few
stakes driven down, straight straw bound round
them, and this smeared with tar occasionally,
will render them safe. So will furze or briers if
tied round them, or dry plasterer's laths. Trees in
open paddocks should have stems not less than six
feet high, and fenced against cattle ; three posts of
larch or oak firmly planted triangularly, and their
tops slanting outwards, with a few battens nailed
across from post to post, will answer the purpose.
If the posts are well charred before insertion,

FRUIT GARDENS. 17

especially those parts six inches below, and the
same distance above ground, they will last as long
as protection is needed; they invariably decay
near the surface of the ground, under the com-
bined action of air and moisture

FRUIT GARDENS.

Some small holders of land may desire, not
an orchard of standard trees merely, but a
regular Apple and Plum garden, the majority
of the Apples being grown as bushes on a
dwarfing stock (hereafter referred to) for early
bearing ; with longer lived standards at suitable
intervals for coming into profit when the more pre-
cocious dwarfs fail, and remaining productive for
perhaps two or three generations. With well
chosen varieties, planted in good soil, a quicker
return on outlay is attainable by this method than
by any other, but the trees must have attention.
Obviously a far greater number is required for
planting a given extent of ground than for ordinary
orchards; but these dwarf trees, purchased as
•' maidens", or one year's growth after grafting or
budding, are the cheapest of all, and nurserymen
sell them at reduced rates by the hundred ; but

c

18

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

"two year olds" are worth their extra cost
and are excellent trees to plant. Older trees
can be had, set with fruit buds, at enhanced
prices, but usually the younger trees overtake
them in a very few years. When trees bear

Fig. 2. — BUSH APPLE TREE. (Page 19.)

prodigiously in a year or two after planting,
and astonish inexperienced observers, who forth-
with go into ecstasies on the profits of fruit
growing, it may be taken for granted that they
will not "wear"; they are enfeebled in infancy,,

FRUIT GARDENS. 19

and their true character may be fairly expressed in
the familiar sentence as applied to abused humanity
— "A short life, but a weak merry one." Let these
precocious prodigies on French stocks be avoided

?

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Fig. 3.— FRUIT GARDEN. (Page 20.)

(Scale, 1 inch = 24 feet.)
Q Standard Apples. o Dwarf Apples. X Plums.

by all who desire to see their trees increase in
profit with increasing years.

An illustration of a good bush Apple tree on the

English broad-leaved paradise stock, is given, Fig.

C 2

20 PROFITABLE FKUIT-GROWING.

2, page 18, and an example of pruning, and the
bearing resulting therefrom, shown ; details will be
given in subsequent pages.

With the object of aiding persons who desire to
have a genuine fruit-garden of the nature sug-
gested, a plan (fig. 3, page 19), is prepared, which
shows the method of arrangement at a glance. It
is drawn to the same scale as the preceding plan
(page 7), in which small fruits have prominence ;
but in this eighth of an acre they are not shown.
It is a section out of a field designed as capable of
extension to any desired extent in any convenient
direction.

The large Orchard Standards are 30 feet, the
Plums 15 feet, and the Dwarf or bush Apples 7j
feet apart : Strawberries or other low growing crops
can be grown between the rows for a time. If it
is desired, three Gooseberry or Currant bushes can
be grown in the spaces in line with the trees, instead
of one dwarf Apple, as shewn in the plan. Such
a garden well managed will yield fruit quickly, and
continue profitable for half a century. Varieties
to plant will be found in the chapters devoted to
the different kinds of fruit.

Small Fruits. — As shewing the great useful-
ness of small fruit a miner's experience is adduced
—one of Lord Ravens worth's allotment-holders
at Wickham, as recorded in the " Financial

FRUIT GARDENS. 21

Reformer" for June. The statement appended
shews the result of cultivating about 420 square
yards (an eleventh part of an acre) a few miles
from Newcastle.

Dr. £ *. d.

Rent of Garden ... 060

Manure 076

Seeds 036

Interest on £4 capital 040

Balance, being profit 5 7 8

£688

SALES.

Cr. £ s. d.

Raspberries, 20 qts. @ Qd 0 10 0

Strawberries, 100 „ „ 5d 218

Black Currants, 20 „ „ 6d 0 10 0

Gooseberries, 6 st. „ 3s 0 18 0

HOME CONSUMPTION.

Gooseberries, 24 qts. @ 3d 0 6 0

Raspberries, 6 „ „ 6d 0 3 0

Strawberries, 12 „ „ 5d 050

Black Currants, 6 „ „ 6d 030

Leeks, Savoys, Cabbages, Lettuces, Peas,

Beans, &c. ... 1 12 0

£688

Details of Cultivation — These are abso-
lutely necessary, and the smaller kinds of fruit
shall first have attention, because they are quickest
in yielding a return to the planter, are well

22 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

adapted for small gardens, and because the in-
formation will be preparatory to that relating to
the larger kinds. While admitting the value of
large fruit, the condemnation of small, by writers
in magazines and newspapers, is much to be
regretted, and for the reasons stated they are
accorded priority here

STRAWBERRIES.

The Strawberry may not generally be considered
a poor man's fruit, but in one important respect it
is deserving of being so regarded, for if equal sized
plots were planted at the same time with different
kinds of fruit, all grown equally well, and the
crops sold, not one could approach the Strawberry
in profit during the first five years. It is the
dwarfest in growth, and the quickest in productive-
ness.

It is within the knowledge of cultivators and
residents in localities where Strawberry -growing
has been introduced, and well conducted, that the
value of the land has been raised 100 per cent., or
from a rental of 305. to £3 per acre, and in some
Instances more.

Near Botley, in Hampshire, about fifteen hundred

STRAWBERRIES. 23

acres are grown, chiefly by tenants of a quarter of
an acre to ten acres. Sixty tons of fruit were sent
from Botley Station on June 25th, 1889. Large
early fruit sold for 10s. a gallon of 7lbs. ; smaller
and later crops falling to eighteen pence. Good
crops pay at a shilling. Salesmen charge a little
under two shillings for a case of a hundred punnets,
each weighing slightly less than a pound. An acre
in a good season yields a return of £50, cost of
culture, including rent, labour, picking, manure
(twenty tons per acre) £17 ; profit £33. SmaV
plants are sold at five shillings a thousand. That
represents open allotment or field culture. Heavier
crops are obtained from richer soil in gardens.

Strawberries usually bear about three full crops,
but some should be planted every year for main-
taining profitable plantations, removing the older
as the plants become exhausted.

Raising Plants. — The first essential to success
is the establishment of strong plants ready for
planting in good ground by the first week in
August. This is perfectly practicable. The secret
of success is to be found in early runners and the
quick rooting of the plantlets that form on them.
For insuring these it is of the first importance to
establish a few early young plants yearly in the
best soil and position available. These afford

24 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

runners much sooner and stronger than can be
obtained from old plants partially exhausted by
fruiting. The earliest plants are established by
pegging the runners into small pots of rich soil, or
in newly pared turf (containing no couch), cut into
three-inch squares and placed close together, grass
downwards, as shown in fig. 4, below. The
latter plan is within the means of many cottagers
and allotment-holders, and if the turves are kept
moist and planted in good ground in August, some

Fig. 4.— RAISING STRAWBERRIES.

of the plants may bear a pound of fruit the first
year. Simpler methods have, however, usually to
be resorted to. Stir the earth round the plants,
press down the plantlets into it with pegs or flat
stones, and, with regular moisture, roots quickly
form and plants are ready for removal during the
month named ; these, if carefully planted in good
ground and duly watered, occasionally with soap-
suds, will bear fine fruit the following June.

It is necessary to refer to still another plan, riot

STRAWBERRIES. 25

so quick in fruit production as the foregoing, but
which has to be resorted to extensively. Late and
small runners are planted five or six inches apart
in rows nine inches asunder in the autumn, and
remain there till they can be finally planted in
March for bearing. They will not produce any
substantial crop the same year; indeed, if the
plants are weak, it is a gain to pick off the few
flower trusses, and the plants will be the stronger
for the next season's crop, which ought to be a full
one. But though these plants occupy the ground
for a season without producing fruit, or only a light
crop, the space need not be wholly wasted. It is
economical to allow a distance of two-and-a-half
feet between rows of Strawberries, even if the plants
are arranged closer in them, or eighteen inches from
each other, as then recourse can be had to inter-
cropping. For occupying the space between the
rows the first season, onions are particularly suit-
able, because the tops do not spread, while the bulbs
are highly serviceable. Two or three rows may be
grown in each strip, either by sowing seed in March
or, preferably, transplanting from beds sown in
August.

Methods of Planting. — Since there are three
wrong ways to one that is right, and as the latter
wnuld be the least likely to be adopted by the in-

26 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

experienced, it will be useful to show them all, as
it is quite as instructive to make clear what to
avoid as what to practice. The small figures,
(fig. 5), will permit of no excuse for rough, care-
less, and erroneous methods of inserting the plants.
The first (a) is sunk much too deeply, burying the
heart, and cannot grow. The second (6) is not
planted deeply enough, the neck or collar being
above ground, and the roots too straight down in
the hole. It will not make a strong, fruitful plant.

Fig. 5. — PLANTING STRAWBERRIES.

The third (c) has had the roots thrust into a shallow
excavation, and must succumb during the first term
of dry weather. The fourth example (d) repre-
sents the proper way of planting Strawberries, the
roots being spread out in a natural manner, the
heart of the plant not being buried, while the neck
or collar is not exposed to the air to become hard
and dry, with the inevitable contraction of the sap
vessels. A plant thus placed in the ground will in
a few months' time be worth a dozen of the
others.

STRAWBERRIES. 27

When a square of land, no matter of what size,
cannot be occupied with several rows of Straw-
berries marginal lines may be conveniently and
profitably grown by the side of paths. This plan
should be more common in small gardens. , These
edgings occupy little space and bear bountiful crops,
handy for picking. A marginal row is shown in

Fig. 6. — STRAWBERRY EDGING.

conjunction with dwarf and standard Currants, in
fig. 6. Insert the plants a foot apart, and there
will be no vacant spaces between them in a year
after planting.

General Management, — This consists in snip-
ping off the runners as fast as they form, except
when they are wanted for producing young plants ;
giving all the soap-suds possible during the period

28 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

of growth, and an occasional soaking with liquid
manure when the fruit is swelling, but not after
colouring commences ; hoeing the ground to pre-
vent the growth of weeds, and covering it with
straw or other suitable material for keeping the
fruit clean, as heavy rains often dash the soil into
the berries, and spoil them. This may be prevented,
and another useful purpose served in one opera-
tion.

During the first crisp frost in autumn, all runners
and rubbish having been cleared away some time
previously, and the ground between the rows
lightly pointed over with a fork, turning in a
little short manure (deep digging with the spade
being injurious), cover the ground two or three
inches thick with partially decayed manure con-
taining a good amount of short stained straw. This
must not be packed closely round the plants ; it will
be washed by the winter rains and be perfectly
sweet by the spring, forming a close, clean cushion
for the fruit to rest on. The covering also pre-
vents the escape of moisture from the earth by
evaporation, and it is retained for the support of
the plants and crops — a most important point in
dry hot weather.

When the manure covering is omitted in the
autumn, straw should be spread between the rows

STRAWBERRIES. 29

some time before the fruit ripens. This is often
deferred till it is colouring, and the trusses have to
be raised and the stalks bruised by placing it under
them— a most reprehensible practice. Better by far
is it to apply the covering when the plants are
flowering, if not before, as it can then be completed
much more expeditiously, and without injury to
the crop. Where convenience exists for passing
the straw through a " cut box", such as is used to
prepare food for horses or cattle, severing it into
inch or two-inch lengths, it can be very quickly
spread on the ground amongst the plants for keep-
ing the fruit clean, while the movement of slugs is
baffled, as they cannot travel over the unstable
particles.

The ground for Strawberries should be well
worked, and enriched to the depth of eighteen
inches or more ; then, if light, made firm ; but if it
is in a condition to grow cauliflowers, onions, and
lettuces well, it will suffice for a good yield of ex-
cellent fruit. Much inferior subsoil should never
be brought to the surface when digging or trench-
ing for either this or any other crop.

Varieties. — The most generally useful and ex-
ten<ively grown is Sir Joseph Paxton. President
equals it in some, and especially light, soils; Gari-
luildi (Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury) is hardy

30

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

and productive ; James Veitch larger and later.
The old Princess Alice is good for field-culture and
travelling. The comparatively new variety, Noble,
is the first and largest Strawberry in the market, and
tons realised a shilling a pound last June, selected
fruits considerably more. This and Sir Joseph
Paxton are especially recommended for affording
profitable crops.

Packing the Fruit. — Selected fruits placed
in the market in the best condition, without bruises
or abrasions, always realise high prices, and es-
pecially if arranged in neat receptacles such as

purchasers can take away
with them. Eound chip
punnets (Fig. 7) have long
been used for this pur-
pose. They are made in
different sizes, and those
about six inches in dia-
meter, and two deep, are in
For later pickings, which
are smaller, narrower and deeper, punnets known
as tl deep pounds" are preferred. They are packed
as shown in fig. 8, page 31, a number being ar-
ranged in a box. The boxes may be deep enough
for holding two or more tiers, the movable floor for
the upper resting on battens nailed on the sides of

Fig. 7.
PUNNET OF STRAWBERRIES.

favour for fine fruits.

STRAWBERRIES.

31

the box. In this case, the fruit should not be piled
above the edge of the punnets. Punnets can be

Fig. 8.— PACKING PUNNETS OF STRAWBERRIES.

had from the leading fruiterers, and independently
of them from, amongst others, N. J. Nicholls, 377
Goldhawk Road, Hammersmith. They vary in
price from 2s. to 4s. a gross

Square chip baskets made by Mr. J. Leedham,
Rotherham, have come into favour, and they look
very tempting when neatly filled with good fruit.
They are even cheaper than the punnets, not cost-
ing more than a farthing each in quantity. They
are about five inches _ __i^^— —

across the top, three
across the bottom, and
three inches deep.
They do not quite
hold a pound of fruit,
but when this is fine
and in the market Fig.

early, scores of thou- CHIP BASKET OF

32 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

sands sell for a shilling each. One of these baskets
is shown in fig. 9, page 31. The handle bends
down and fits closely over the edge of the basket,
then any desired number, according to the size of the
box, can be arranged as in fig. 10. It is a common
practice to have a number of boxes about 3 J inches
deep and make a stack of five or six of these,
binding them tightly together for market. A few
Strawberry or soft rhubarb leaves without mid- ribs
are spread on the fruit before placing on the lid.

Fig. 10. — PACKING CHIP BASKETS OF STRAWBERRIES.

The fruit should be gathered before overripe for
travelling, each with half an inch of stalk attached ;
and above all things growers should treat their
customers as they would themselves be treated if
buying instead of selling, and not attempt to de-
ceive by " topping" with extra fine fruit, while that
below is inferior. Smaller fruit for preserving
does not receive the same care in packing, but it
should never be forgotten that the better it is pre-
sented the better the price it conimnwls. These

RASPBERRIES. 33

remarks apply to all small or " soft" fruits, and it
will not be necessary tc repeat them in treating of
different kinds.

In sending Strawberries by post, each fruit
should be placed in a leaf and packed closely in
boxes two inches deep containing a layer of wad-
ding, the fruit to be covered with leaves for the lid
to rest on.

RASPBERRIES.

Raspberries are among the easiest of fruit to
cultivate, and the most certain to afford profitable
crops when justice is done to the plantations.
Except in the best managed gardens, Raspberry-
culture is practically ignored. It is true that
clumps or thickets are plentiful, but they practically
grow themselves, or if attention is bestowed on
them it is very far from being of the best kind. Of
what does it consist ? Allowing all the young
canes that push up from the roots to grow into a
crowded mass during the summer, one spoiling the
other ; then in winter, or more likely in spring,
cutting some of them out with the dead bearing
canes of last year, bundling the rest together; next,
with a spade, digging deeply between the rows for

34 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

burying weeds, and, perhaps, manure, at the same
time mutilating the roots. That time-honoured
method of so called culture is absolutely wrong,
and with a change in practice, the value of the crop
can be, often has been, and it is hoped will be,
increased 100 per cent, in two years, without a
penny of extra expenditure being incurred.

An example — the narration of a positive fact —
will render the matter clear. In a large and good
garden, in which excellent vegetables arid most
kinds of hardy fruits were grown, the Raspberry
plantation was unsatisfactory. After trimming and
tying up the canes in February or March, manure
was liberally added, often so liberally that it could
with difficulty be covered by digging it in with
spades. It was done, however, and in the process,
fibrous roots were turned up in masses ; after
hoeing to destroy weeds later on, the then dried
fibrous roots were raked off in barrow-loads. The
manure and labour were worse than wasted. The
plantation became weaker yearly, till at last it wa,s
condemned as worn out, and it was decided it
should be left to take its chance until newly planted
canes arrived at a bearing state. The following
year the old plantation was made presentable by
tying, hoeing, and raking, but no manure was
added, and no digging done. The result was much

RASPBERRIES. 35

finer canos, and the season following a much better
crop of fruit than had been seen for years. This
suggested a change of treatment. Manure was
spread on the surface of the ground, and left there
to decay, and for years the plantation was famed
for its productiveness.

It was the custom to sell the fruit after sufficient
had been gathered for home use ; and at the price
then obtainable, 6d. a quart, the amount realised
was at the rate of £50 per acre, seldom less, but
generally more. And this, be it remembered, from
a once condemned plantation, ruined for a time
by erroneous treatment, which is now far from
obsolete; restored by a change to more rational
methods, founded on the natural habit and character
of the plants.

The Raspberry delights in deep fertile soil, moist,
yet not saturated. It is generally found wild not
far from water- courses in openings in woods, where
there is some shelter from the hot sun, but not
dense shade. This suggests its adaptability as an
undercrop in young or thin orchards ; though when
the soil is rich and deep, so that the roots do not
lack moisture, the best crops are obtained in the
open, and not under trees.

It is essentially a surface rooting plant, and the
better the fibrous roots are preserved, and the better

D 2

36 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

they are fed, the finer is the fruit. Still the plants
also produce strong woody roots which enjoy a
deep run, and the deeper and better it is, the
stronger are the canes and the better is the growth
supported in dry weather. The two classes of
roots thus have important missions to perform — the
strong and deep to produce substantial canes , the
finer and multitudinous surface fibres to feed the
crops of fruit. Bearing these facts in mind, the
soil should be made friable and good to a depth of
at least 18 inches, and 2 feet if possible. In pre-
paring the ground the best soil must be kept
towards the top. The lower can be enriched with
rough manure and decaying vegetable refuse of any
kind. Heavy soil should be lightened with what-
ever porous material can be collected, and if this
cannot be freely mixed through the mass, place the
lightest and best around the roots when planting,
as the growth is often very slow when the roots are
in contact with strong, clay -like soil.

Planting. — The ground being in readiness, next
follows the planting. The sooner this is done in
the autumn after the leaves can be shaken from the
canes the better, or when they separate easily when
the hand is drawn up them ; the next best time-
being when the buds commence swelling in early
spring. It is most important that the roots are not

RASPBERRIES.

dried during the process of removal ; they shrink
quickly, and must always be kept moist when out
of the ground.

Instruction is needed on the selection of canes for

f c .

Fig. 11.— RASPBERRY CANES.

planting, and their after management. Examine
the above illustrations, fig. 11 ; a is a small cane,
two to three feet high, with fibrous roots ; b the
same cane, showing the effect of cutting it back
when planted , c a very strong cane, upwards of

36 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

four feet high, with comparatively few roots. Most
persons not experienced would choose the strong
canes with few roots, in preference to the smaller
with bushy fibres, and would undoubtedly choose
wrongly. Again, ninety-nine persons out of a
hundred, for whose benefit these instructions are
prepared, would leave the canes their entire length
after planting, in the hope of obtaining strong-
bearing plants the sooner. The hope is a vain one.
Look at the figures again ; the small cane a, when
planted, was shortened to the cross-mark in 6,
leaving the stem not more than nine inches high.
What is the result? The strong canes springing
from the base of 6 are calculated to bear fine
bunches of fruit, and the foundation is laid for a
profitable bush, which, under good management,
will yield abundantly for many years.

Now glance at c ; the strong cane was planted,
and not shortened. What is the result ? The cane
may or may not produce a few miserable fruits the
first season, but whether it does or not, it dies, and
leaves nothing behind but one or two small apolo-
gies for young canes (which see). These will
probably die in turn, and if not it is not possible
they can develop into a productive bush, even in
another year, and not one in ten will produce
strong bearing canes in three years. As it is often

RASPBERKIES. 39

as instructive to show the wrong as the right, it is
hoped no one who reads these lines will make the
great mistake of choosing long, strong, and badly-
rooted Kaspberry canes, and leave them their full
length after planting.

In planting, spread the roots out as shown under
the ground line, work free soil well amongst them,
tread it down moderately firm, spread a layer of
manure on the surface of the ground over them,
and for a foot beyond their extension, leaving it
there to decay. A few copious waterings in dry
weather in summer will accelerate growth, but the
manure covering will do more good by preventing
the escape of moisture from the soil than several
waterings will with the surface of the earth exposed
to the sun.

Summer Management. — This consists in pre-
venting the appearance of weeds by timely hoeings,
which is in every respect preferable to allowing
them to grow, because much more labour is neces-
sary for their removal, and without weeds the soil's
virtues are conserved for the useful crop. Another
important but much neglected operation which
should rot be overlooked, is the thinning of super-
fluous suckers. Six or seven canes at the outside
are sufficient for securing to a stake, yet twice that
number often push up, and if permitted to extend,

10 PEOFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

crowd and spoil each other. Those not wanted
should be pulled up when six inches high (they
will grow if transplanted in showery weather), and
the remainder will be the stronger, sturdier, and
more fruitful.

Autumn Help — After the crops are gathered,
it is the custom to let the old canes, which have
produced the fruit, remain to die, and a very bad
custom it is. It is much better to remove them
promptly by severing them at the bottom and
drawing them carefully downwards, so as not to
break the leaves of the summer canes for next
year's fruiting, and the additional sun and air
admitted to these will, by ripening them, greatly
increase their productiveness.

Winter Work. — The sooner this is completed
after the leaves fall the better When the
canes are tied to stakes, six or seven of the
best and shortest jointed should be selected,
and instead of tying them all above the stakes
in the orthodox manner, and thus having fruit
at the top only, shorten two of the canes about
fifteen inches from the ground, two others at about
twice that height, and the remaining two or three
a foot or so above the top of the stakes in the
manner shewn in fig. 11, d, page 37. The result of
tins simple method of pruning is seen in the accom-

RASPBERRIES- 41

pauying illustration, fig 1:2, namely, fruit nearly

Fig. 12. — RASPBERRY IN BEARING.

from the ground to five feet or more above, it if the
canes are strong; and in hot dry summers the

42 PKOFJTABLE FKUIT-GROWING.

finest fruits will be found, not at the top of the
bushes, but towards the bottom, where in the ordi-
nary course of pruning none is produced.

Lines of Raspberries. — Training the canes,
either as shown for Gooseberries (page 53) upright,
or slantingly to wires or cross laths is unquestion-
ably good. Hedges of Easpberries five feet high
on this system are highly productive, and if several
rows are grown together the distance between them
should equal, or somewhat exceed, the height of
the canes. Plant them six inches asunder in the
row, cut them down as advised, and when estab-
lished, shorten every alternate cane to the first
wire, and the others nine inches above the second,
which may be 4Jr or 5 feet from the ground.

Self-supporting Canes. — More Raspberries
are grown without supports than with them on
fruit farms and in market gardens, also as under-
growth in orchards. For this cheap method of
culture a short, sturdy-growing variety should be
chosen, and there is none to surpass, if equal, the
true Carter's Prolific, raised by Mr. John Carter,
of Keighley, and more of this is grown in that
way than of all others put together. As pre-
viously mentioned, a broad line of Raspberries
without stakes, laths, or wires, round Mr. W.
Jacob's small allotment at Petworth, gave upwards

RASPBERRIES. 43

of two quarts of fruit to the yard last summer, and
the fact is worth repeating.

Tall growers of well-proved merit, for wires and
stakes, are Rivers' Hornet, Prince of Wales, and
Superlative. Any of these may be tried that are
the most readily obtainable, and the number can
soon be increased if desired.

If there is no material departure from the in-
structions given, a fair measure of success may be
expected by cottagers and small holders of land
who have had little or no experience in growing
crops of this nature for home use or market pur-
poses.

GOOSEBERRIES.

Strawberries are delicious and wholesome, es-
pecially in their natural state, and Raspberries take
high rank, especially for preserving, but both are
useless when unripe : it is not so with Gooseberries.
These occupy the same position early in the season
that Apples do later as food products, and both are
indispensable — one the most substantial and most
in demand of small, as the other is of large fruits
grown in this country.

Gooseberry trees are raised from cuttings, and
the process is so simple and easily explainable that

44

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

it is not conceivable that any intelligent person
can fail in comprehending and carrying it out.
Fig, 13 represents a Gooseberry cut-
ting ready for insertion. It is a firm,
short-jointed, summer shoot cut from a
bush in the autumn as soon as the leaves
could be shaken off. The strongest
growths are not necessarily the best for
propagating, as some of these may be
gross and soft, containing much pith.
They should be firm, with little pith, yet
almost as thick as the stem of a tobacco
pipe. They may be from 15 to 18 inches
long, thus affording a sufficient length for
inserting firmly in the soil for rooting,
with at least six inches of clean stem
above it to the branches; or in other
words, 4 or 5 inches of the stem may
Fig. 13. be in the ground, and 10 or 12 inches
c^TTma7 above it, 6 to 9 inches of this quite free
from buds, the top four inches or thereabouts
containing them for the production of branches.
These figures are given as approximative, for
cuttings cannot always be had of the exact length
desired, and an inch or two either way is not of
material importance.

It will be seen by the sketch referred to that

GOOSEBERRIES.

45

not only are the spines removed, but the buds are
cut out except five at the top, also that the end is
cut off above the highest bud If four of the
buds grow, as may be expected, and extend equally,
the branches thus produced lay the foundation of
the future bush. The end of the cutting for inser-
tion in the ground is cut square across, almost close
to the lowest bud, and not midway between the
buds or the stem. The knife cannot possibly be too
sharp for this purpose, for if the bark is bruised by
a blunt one the end of the cutting may decay, in-
stead of first swelling, then producing roots. It is
by attention to what the uninitiated may regard as
trifling matters that success is achieved.

The next step on-
wards is shown in
miniature fig. 14, in
which the cutting in
a year from its inser-
tion is transformed
into a tree well rooted,
and with four stout
branches, and a sucker
springing from the base. This sucker, however,
shows bad, not good, workmanship, for it proves
the bud from which it has issued was not completely
cut out, as all buds should be in making the cuttings.

Fig. 14. — GOOSEBERRY A YEAR FROM
THE CUTTING.

46 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

One or two growths of that nature may spoil a
single-stemmed bush. It is of little use cutting them
back, for it will only be cutting to ' come again"
stronger than before, and with the number increased.
It is true some persons do not object to growths
direct from the roots, but in that case they do not
remove any buds, and although they may have
good crops of fruit, they cannot be better than
from single-stemmed trees, which are much the
more convenient for working amongst, also for
gathering the crops; and, broadly speaking, one
kind of bush represents culture, the other slovenli-
ness.

Supposing there is no sucker to our miniature
tree, as there should not be, how are the new
branches to be dealt with ? If they remain un-
shortened, they simply elongate, the lower pair
soon reaching the ground, except in the case of
upright growing sorts (which are not the most
profitable) and are then of little further use. A
great point to secure in Gooseberry growing is to
have the branches well above the soil, both for
keeping the fruit clean and admitting a free circu-
lation of air under and amongst the branches, this
conducing to fruitfulness. The first young branches
are thus cut back more than half their length, as
shown by the cross lines. The effect of this is that

GOOSEBERRIES. 47

the branches are at the least doubled in number
the next season, as indicated by the dotted lines
(page 45). Instead of four we now have eight,
and may have more. These branches need not be
shortened materially, and if they do not exceed a
foot in length, the removal of two or three inches
from the ends will suffice ; if they much exceed a
foot, cut them back to that length after the leaves
fall.' In doing this, let an apparently small matter
be attended to, for it is of far greater moment than
it may seem to the inexperienced. See that the
end bud left after cutting is a good one and pointing
upwards or outwards, not downwards or inwards,
for the growth that follows will be in the direction
in which the bud points, and if that is downwards,
or towards the centre of the tree, either crowding
will be induced, or low, flat bushes formed ; we
want an open bush, as upright as the variety will
allow, and with the branches well clear of the
ground, even when the weight of fruit drags them
towards it.

Pruning. — As the bushes attain size, pruning
must be resorted to, and just as it is intelligently
conducted, so will the crops be. Some Gooseberry
bushes in the gardens of cottagers and small farmers
are never pruned, the result being small fruit and
speedily exhausted trees ; on the other hand, when

48

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

pruning is conducted in the absence of knowledge,
it often prevents good crops of fruit. If all the
young shoots of healthy trees
are systematically cut back, a
Vhicket of luxuriant growth is
induced. Main branches, thinly
disposed, should be allowed to
extend; the side growths issuing
from these must be cut back to
within an inch of the base, thus
jj WL forming the spurs; but, in ad-

dition, where there is space for
a young shoot to bear fruit, such
shoot should be left, because
the Gooseberry, though bearing
well on spurs of two or more
years old wood, also produces
fruit freely on firm annual
shoots, when these are not over-
crowded.

Fig. 15, annexed, shows a
branch, the thicker and darker
part of which is two years old,
the thinner and lighter wood of
one summer's growth. It will
^6 geen t]iat natura] spurs are

Fig. is.

GOOSEBERRY BRANCH, ONE

ND TWO-YEAR-OLD WOOD, forming on the former, also

GOOSEBERRIES. 49

that two side growths have been cut back at xx.
If these had not been shortened, the interior
of the bush would soon have become so crowded
that the hand could not be passed down be-
tween the branches for gathering the crop. A
very simple guide for the pruner is to let the
branches be far enough apart to admit the hand
between them without coming in contact with the
spines. A young shoot may be left here and there,
one of these being shown in the figure. If there
had not been space for the hand to pass down
between the two, the shoot would have been cut
back like the two others ; but as there is room, it is
left, and every bud on it may produce blossom, to
be followed by fruit. It is desirable to retain
young shoots their full length, or nearly so, in good-
sized bushes, even if an old wearing-out branch is
cut out or shortened, to make room for them ; there
must be no overcrowding, but always room for
reaching right into the centre of the bush.

Now examine the branch above mentioned of
two-year-old wood with spurs, and one-year-old
wood with spines and buds only, in connection
with the bush shown in fig. 16, page 50, and it
will be apparent that this bush is composed
of a number of these branches. In order to make
the subject of pruning so clear that it cannot be

E

50

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

misunderstood, half the bush is represented as
pruned, the other half unpruned. It will be seen
that in the pruned part, space is afforded so that the
hand can pass down to the base of the branches for
gathering the fruit, should there be any ; a bush,
however, soon ceases bearing except on the outside,

Fig-. 16.— HALF PEUNED GOOSEBEKKY.

if this unfortunate thicket system is permitted to
continue, and it will become worse during each
year of neglect in pruning.

Cropping and Summer Pruning.— It now
remains to show the results of keeping the branches
thinly disposed for the production of spurs, which
cannot form when the growths are crowded. Fig
17, page 51, represents the individual branch of a
Gooseberry bush on which spurs have formed,

GOOSEBERRIES.

51

blossomed, and produced fruit. This is no
imaginary branch, but a u lesson from life". It
will be seen that young shoots are pushing from the
upper side of the branch, and if all these were

Fig. 17. — BEARING BRANCH AND SUMMER PRUNING OF
GOOSEBERRY.

permitted to extend, they would overcrowd the
branches above, and exclude light and air from
them. This evil can be averted by nipping the
ends off several of the young shoots in June, as in
example xx, this method of "summer pruning" is

E 2

52 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

not half sufficiently practised. It prevents crowd-
ing and promotes fruitfulness. Every shoot may
be pinched or cut off when five or six inches long,
leaving two or three pairs of leaves on the part left,
only allowing a shoot to extend here and there
when there is room for such extension, in accord-
ance with the principle above described. When
other growths follow the stopping, pinch them off
in turn, and fruiting spurs will form, and fruit
follow exactly as shown in the engraving.

The Gooseberry is one of the most certain, profit-
able, and reliable of fruits. Young trees grown two
feet apart will produce at the least a pint of fruit
in three years, probably much more, and the value
of this, at the low price of a shilling a peck, is at
the rate of over £30 an acre. They may be grown
at that distance until they touch each other, then
half of them can be taken out and replanted five or
six feet apart if it is desired to extend the planta-
tion. In six years the above value of the crop
will be doubled. They like deeply worked fertile,
soil, and may be planted in the autumn or
spring.

Gooseberries for Hedges, Walls, or Fences.

—Particular attention is directed to the plan now

to be recommended. More fruit can be had from a

given extent of land in this than in any other way.

GOOSEBERRIES.

53

The plants may be six inches apart, confining each
to a single stem : otherwise plant thrice that distance
asunder, taking three stems from each as repre-
sented in fig. 18. They may first be secured to
upright stakes, and eventually to cross-wires fixed

Fig. 18.— A GOOSEBERRY FENCE.

to posts. All that is necessary is to pinch the side
growths which push in summer, as above advised,
and let the leading shoot extend. Upwards of 300
fine fruits have been gathered from a stem four
feet high, and it is remarkable that birds neither
attack the buds nor ripe fruit with anything ap-
proaching the persistency they often do in the case
of ordinary bushes.

54 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Soil that will grow first rate crops of wheat or
potatoes will also grow good Gooseberries. In dry
soil manure should be spread thickly on the ground
over the roots, and left there to decay.

Manuring. — When the young wood much ex-
ceeds a foot in length the ground will be rich
enough ; if it does not attain that length the land
must be enriched. In the absence of stable manure
equal parts of superphosphate of lime and kainit,
applied at the rate of from 2oz. to 3oz. to each
square yard, will be a suitable application.

Varieties. — For affording abundant crops to be
gathered in a green state for cooking, bottling, or
preserving, any or all the following are suitable ;
Whinham's Industry, Crown Bob, Whitesmith, and
Lancashire Lad. The first named is comparatively
new. and is valuable because it attains a good size
early. Its popularity is indicated by the fact that one
firm sold 100,000 trees last season. All varieties
do not thrive equally in differing soils, but those
named are not likely to fail, and the sorts that suc-
ceed the best in any particular garden can be pro-
pagated the most extensively. For gathering ripe,
for preserving, and keeping late, no variety excels
the Eed Warrington. For early ripening, Early
Sulphur is one of the best, and the richest of all for
dessert is Red Champagne.

GOOSEBERRIES. 55

Enemies. — The greatest of these are birds such
as bull-finches and sparrows, destroying the buds
in the spring ; and caterpillars, eating the leaves,
destroying the crops, and seriously injuring the
trees in the early summer.

Where the bushes are not numerous, and the
branches at the distances apart suggested, it is not
half so tedious as it seems to smear them with the
following mixture, covering every particle of stems
and buds with the aid of a painter's brush. Take
fresh lime and soot, nearly double the quantity of
the former, also some clay, and mix them to the
consistency of paint, adding also some melted
grease of any kind best obtainable. This mixture
adheres for months, and birds seldom pick out the
buds, while caterpillars rarely attack the leaves, and
the stems are kept free from moss. A quicker
method of covering the stems with a bird and moss
antidote, is to throw freshly slaked lime amongst
them when every twig is wet, after having a heavy
mist or fog. If the work is well done, the trees
will be quite white when dry, and the lime that
falls will be of benefit as a manure. If caterpillars
appear, dredge them with Hellebore powder when
wet, and it will destroy all that are reached, then
syringe well with clear water to wash off the pow-
der, which is poisonous ; but where lime is used as

50 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

above directed, freely and regularly, caterpillars
seldom trouble the trees.

CURRANTS.

Estimating the crop of even a fairly well-grown
Currant bush at the low weight of ten pounds,
and the value of the fiuit at even a halfpenny a
pound, the crop will be worth at the rate of nearly
£40 an acre, with the bushes five feet apart ; but as
all experienced cultivators know, the yield is often
much greater than that stated, and the price is
distinctly below the average. It follows that the
growing of Currants might be pursued with advan-
tage by persons who have good ground at disposal.

There are three kinds of Currants — Red, White,
and Black. The two former require identical treat-
ment as regards propagation and pruning, but the
latter is wholly different in habit, and must be
managed accordingly, in the way that will be de-
scribed. The White Currant is more of a "fancy"
than a serviceable fruit, and one bush of it to fifty
or even a hundred of the Red and Black will suffice
as a rule, apart from personal preferences or special
local requirements.

CURRANTS.

A young Red Currant is formed in the same way as
a Gooseberry tree, and the figures on pages 44-45,

Fig. 19.— A RED CUBBANT BUSH. (Page 58.)

with the accompanying instructions, may be followed
in raising and establishing both ; but as soon as

Fig. 20.— A FBUITIXG BBAXCH OF RED CURBANT. (Page 58.)

a sufficient number of branches are produced for a

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Red Currant bush, additional young growths should
not be encouraged. A few sketches will make the
process quite plain. Fig. 19, page
57. represents a Red Currant
bush pruned and ready for bearing.
That bush has averaged 20 Ibs. of
fruit for the last seven years.
There are nine branches, each five
feet in length. Seven as a rule suf-
fice, but as there appeared room for
two more, they were allowed to ex-
tend, branching from the mains on
the left of the figure. Nearly all
the buds on the stem are blossom
buds, but there are a few wood buds
amongst them, that push growths in
the summer. These are first pruned
back to two or three pairs of leaves
in June, as shown at xx, in the fruit-
ing branch, fig. 20, page 57, one
growth being left unpruned to show
the difference, for it ought also to
be taken off at the cross-mark. In
winter these summer - shortened
growths are cut back close to the

Fig. 21.— GROWTH G

OF RED CURRANT, clusters of buds as shown on the

WITH SPURS AND 1 , i£.

BUDS. enlarged three-year old branch (fig.

m

CURRANTS. 59

21, page 58), this being one of the branches
of the miniature bush in the preceding sketch. It
will now be seen how easy it is to prune a Red
Currant bush properly; also it will be perceived how
easy it is for the inexperienced to go wrong with-
out these little " object lessons".

There are two important points still to be men-
tioned, and they should not be forgotten. The
first is, to have the main branches so wide apart
that not the hand only of a man can be passed
easily between them after pruning, but there
should almost be room for his hat. The fruiting
branch shows both the necessity and the result of,
say a foot of space between the branches after the
pruning is completed. The crop is not in the slightest
degree exaggerated, and such yields cannot be had
from crowded bushes, nor can they be gathered
half so quickly as when the main branches are
thinly disposed.

The next point to be remembered, is not to allow
more than a foot of young wood to remain at the
ends of the main branches yearly ; the growth may
extend beyond that in summer, then to be topped,
but should be cut back in winter to nine inches.
If more is permitted, less spurs will form, and con-
sequently less fruit follow.

Standard Currants. — Most persons know

PROFITABLE FRUIT-CROWING.

what standard roses are, and those who have not
seen standard Red Currants may be told that they
are nearly as ornamental as standard roses, and
much more useful ; they are, moreover, very easily
produced.

Fig 22.— STANDABD CUKRANT.

A standard Currant tree, nearly full grown and
pruned ready for bearing a heavy crop of fruit, is
shown in fig. 22, above. The pruning for form-
ing the head is exactly the same as described above,
and all that is needed is the narration of the
process for producing the stem. Choose strong,
yet firm, young shoots, as soon as the leaves have

CURRANTS. 61

fallen, or can be rubbed off, for cuttings. These
may be eighteen inches or more in length, and the
eyes or buds must be carefully cut out of the lower
six inches, which insert carefully in sandy soil.
Do not remove the tops of these cuttings, but place
a tall stick to each, and secure the leading shoot to
it as it extends, pinch the side growths that push
from the stem as soon as two leaves form, and as
often as other growths follow pinch the tips out at
one leaf. Continuing the practice, the stems are
covered with green leaves, which assist them to
thicken, and the sap flows the more freely upwards
to support the head. Allow the leading growth to
attain a height of four feet, then, when the leaves
fall, cut off the top at a little bole w that height, and
four or five shoots will push in the spring for form-
ing the head. At the end of the third year all the
pinched back growths may be cut from the stem.
But what is the use of such trees ? They can be
grown by the sides of paths in gardens with other
crops between and under them, the Currant crop
being practically a distinct gain, and of substantial
value. A small sketch will explain the matter
better than a thousand words. A strip of ground
about five feet wide is occupied with dwarf Currant
bushes along the side of a walk. Managed as
above described, these bear 20lbs. of fruit each; but

15 £ PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

plant standard Currants between them and allow
only lOlbs. of fruit for each, and it is obvious that
the value from the same plot of land is increased
fifty per cent., because the standards rising above
the dwarfs as shown in fig. 6, page 27, do not
impair their productiveness. Now have a marginal
row of Strawberries planted a foot from the path,
and the same distance asunder in the line, and
ornament will be combined with utility.

The Red Dutch is one of the best red Currants
for standards, and is good also for bushes. If a
few extra large fruits are desired for exhibiting at
cottagers' shows, a tree of the Victoria will pro-
duce them, but for general purposes this is not so
useful as the other. The only White Currant that
need be grown is the White Dutch, and one or two
trees will suffice for small gardens.

Black Currants. — This most useful fruit is
quite distinct from the foregoing, and requires en-
tirely different treatment. It will grow in stronger
and moister soil than, perhaps, any other fruit, and
if one position in a garden is cooler and damper
than the rest, it may be planted with Black Cur-
rants : the bushes also grow and bear well in good
soil under trees, where the sunshine can pass down
between them and filter through the branches.
Black Currants are in great demand for cooking

CCRRANTS. 63

and preserving, and good crops of fine fruit are
very profitable, but they cannot be grown remune-
ratively in dry and poor land. Some of the most
profitable bushes seen by the writer grew on the
sloping banks of a wide ditch or stream that passed
through a cottager's garden. They bore on an
average thirty pounds of fruit each, which sold for
*2d. a pound. The bushes were six feet through,
and overhung the water. The crops were not easy
to gather, but beyond the little trouble involved in
that respect they cost absolutely nothing to pro-
duce, and the bushes occupied a position on which
nothing else could be usefully grown.

Black Currant cuttings may be made and inserted
in the way advised for Gooseberries, with the im-
portant exception that no buds need be removed ;
it is desirable, however, to cut off the top of each
cutting for inciting the production of branches.

Suckers that are objectionable when springing
from the stems beneath the surface of the ground
in Gooseberries, and often ruinous in the case of
Red Currants, are advantageous rather than other-
wise to the black fruited kind. The crops are
borne mainly on the young shoots of the previous
year, and the stronger these are, as a rule, the finer
the fruit : and as the suckers make strong branches,
by encouraging their production and cutting out the

64 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

older and weaker parts, the bushes remain profit-
able for a number of years. Lee's Prolific and
Black Champion are profitable sorts to grow.

The character of a Black Currant bush is
displayed in the small sketch, fig. 23. As will
be seen, there are no " spurs" as in the Eed
Currant and Gooseberry, but the branches are
simply studded with buds ; strong suckers are also

Fig. 23.— BLACK CURBAXT BUSH.

seen pushing from the ground a little distance from
the main stem. All that is necessary in pruning is
to thin out the older and weaker parts to give the
stronger more room, and these may be five or six
inches asunder. As further elucidating the matter
a branch is shown on a larger scale in fig. 24, page
65. The old wood is dark, the young lighter.
The best fruit will be borne by the latter, therefore,
when the branches are too close together, the old,
as represented by the central one, should be cut
out at the cross-mark. A shoot will push from the

CURRANTS.

65

bud below for bearing another year, and one older
near can be removed to give room for it. The
simple routine of pruning
Black Currants is cutting
out old branches and en-
couraging young growths,
also preventing these being
unduly crowded.

Digging and Manur-
ing. — Currant bushes
should not be dug amongst
with the spade, but the
ground may be pointed
over carefully with a fork.
Manure, especially for Black
Currants, which produce
fibrous roots near the sur-
face, and suffer from
drought, is best spread on
the soil and there left to
decay. Lime is g«,od for
Currants, and if it is
da>hed amongst the
branches when wet, for
adhering and destroying
moss, enough will fall to Fig 24._BBANCH OF BLACK

the ground for the roots. CUBBANT, SHOWING OLD AND

YOUNG WOOD (see page 61).

66 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Common salt is good in dry soils, applied at
the rate of 2 or 3 cwt. per acre, or a little more
than one ounce to each square yard, in dry
weather in March.

Enemies. — Small green and black flies (Aphides)
are the chief enemies of theRed Currant; they attack
the tips of the young shoots, the leaves curl, and
growth stops. The quickest method of riddance is
to nip off the points of the shoots and burn them,
though soap-suds as hot as the hand can be borne
in for a quarter of a minute will destroy many
and not injure the trees. Black Currants are liable
to injury by a very small mite (Phytoptis), almost
invisible, attacking the buds, which swell to a large
size, but little or no growth follows. There is no
certain cure, though sometimes, when the trees are
cut boldly down and the branches burnt, clean
growths follow. Cuttings should never be taken
from trees thus attacked; and if fresh trees are
obtained, they should be planted as distantly as
possible from the old.

APPLES. 67

APPLES.

Unquestionably the Apple is the most important,
because the most substantial and serviceable, fruit
of temperate climes, and it is very apparent that
the increase of home-grown fruit of the best quality
has not been commensurate with the demands of
an ever increasing population. How is a change
to be effected ? One thing is clear, if we stand
still, American growers will not, and the worse our
samples become by neglect, the better will theirs
become by cultivation; and the best samples, no
matter whence they come, nor what they are called,
will find the readiest sale. Let it be said emphati-
cally that the ONLY WAY TO COMMAND A SALE FOR

HOME GROWN APPLES IS TO IMPROVE THE SAMPLES,

and this can be done. It is pitiable to see the
generally low grade of the produce of gardens and
orchards attached to British homesteads ; and it is
because of this inferiority, more than anything else,
that imported fruit finds its way, not to populous
cities only, but to small country towns, and even rural
villages. For improving the market supply of
British Apples, there must be an enormous limitation
of varieties, as then, and then only, can the best,
most reliable, and most uniform supplies be insured.
That is the American plan; and by carrying it out

F2

68 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

in its integrity confidence has been gained in their
consignments, and a great trade, creditable to them
but humiliating to us, established in our markets.

Raising Apple Trees. — The habit of raising
Apple trees from pips in cottage gardens, and grow-
ing the trees till they bear, must be abandoned. That
is the origin of thousands of worthless Apple trees.
Young trees may be raised in that way, but only
for stocks on which sorts of proved merit can be
grafted, But there are other kinds of stocks,
dwarf in growth and quick in flowering ; and when
small fruitful trees are wanted in the shortest time
they should be bought from nurseries ; they are
very cheap, in fact the cheapest of trees, and very
soon pay for the outlay.

Stocks for Apples. — These vary extremely, and
greatly influence the growth of the trees established
on them, also the crops of fruit. The same variety of
Apple was grafted at the same time, on different
stocks, and the trees grown together in the experi-
mental gardens of the Eoyal Horticultural Society.
The blossoms following were counted. At the end
of five years the tree on the French Paradise had
produced 460 blossoms ; on the Broad-leaved Para-
dise, 185 ; on the Crab, 23. But a tree may produce
too many blossoms when quite young, and become
stunted —a mere toy. This is often the case with

APPLES. 69

trees on the first-named stock, in some soils. We
must have regard to growth as well as precocity.
Seven years after grafting near the ground, and the
trees grown as bushes, that on the French Paradise
was nearly three feet high, with more than 300
blossoms (too many), that on the Broad-leaved
Paradise was five feet high, with 150 blossoms,
quite sufficient for a crop. The tree on the Crab
had no blossom that year, and was upwards of six
feet high. These particulars were taken by the
writer, and are accurate. The Broad-leaved Para-
dise stock, then, combines free growth with fruit-
fulness, and trees grafted on it are suitable for
growing either as free bushes (see figure 2, page
18) or dwarf standards in the gardens of cottagers
and small holders of land. The Nonesuch is a
valuable stock for dwarf bush trees, imparting
sturdiness with productiveness. Tall standards for
orchards or on grass must be grafted on Crab stocks.
Soil and Situation. — As before indicated,
land of a staple that will grow good crops of wheat,
potatoes, or cabbages, will grow good Apples. It
should be well worked to a depth of two feet, the
subsoil being broken up, but not brought to the
surface. If water stand two feet below, drains
should be laid five yards apart and three feet or
more deep, with proper falls and outlets. If this is

70 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

not practicable, plant the trees on mounds above
the general level, and keep the soil covered with
manure, especially in summer, for attracting and
retaining the roots near the surface, for if this is
dry in hot weather, they will go downwards to
the water, and remain there to the detriment of the
trees. There may not be much choice as to site,
but if there are damp hollows and higher and drier
ground, choose the latter, as the roots will be
warmer, and the blossoms have a better chance of
escaping injury by frost, for the drier the air the
less they are damaged.

Purchasing Trees. — First look to the charac-
ter and position of the vendors, and deal with
those who have reputations to maintain. They
cannot afford to sell inferior trees, or what is of
vital importance, distribute varieties under wrong
names. It is a very serious matter to grow fruit
trees for some years, then, when they bear, find
they are not the sorts ordered, but inferior. Time
thus lost cannot be regained. Order early in Oc-
tober, and the sooner the trees arrive and are
planted after the leaves fall the better they will
grow. Many are planted in spring, and answer
very well ; and it is better to plant just when the
sap commences moving and the ground is in good
order, than in mid -winter when it is in a cold, wetr

APPLES. 71

adhesive state ; but the best trees are sold first, or
in the autumn. If they cannot be procured till
spring, and the roots arrive in a very dry state,
plunge them in water for a day before planting.
Do not buy so-called " cheap" trees in markets, in
April, with the roots as dry as hay through long
exposure. They are the unsold stock of nurseries,
and may or may not die, and may or may not be
true to name. They are not to be trusted to give
satisfaction.

Planting. — The best of trees are spoiled by
bad planting, and it is deplorable to see how
roughly the work is often done, through lack of
knowledge. A man must be taught to plant a tree
before he can plant it properly. He may honestly
believe he is doing work well that he does not
understand, when, at the same time, he is entirelv
at fault. It is intended that there shall be no ex-
cuse for bad planting by persons who read the
instructions here given, and it is hoped they will
act in accordance with them.

The subject cannot be made clear to the inexpe-
rienced without the aid of sketches : with them it
can scarcely be misunderstood, therefore a few are
provided. Three trees are represented in minia-
ture, in fig. 25, page 72. The first (a) shows bad
planting, either in the garden or grass fields. The

7£

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

second (6) represents good planting in drained
land. The third (c) shows how planting should be
done in wet ground, in which water may stand with-
in two feet of the surface. An ordinary man who
has not been taught how to plant trees, will almost

Fig. 25.— PLANTING APPLES (see page 71).

certainly proceed as if digging a hole for a post,
push the roots down in it a foot below the surface,
cover them thickly with manure, stamp it down,
pile the soil up around the stem, then, if in a grass-
field, place on the grass in the form of a neat
mound. The tree may not die the first season,
but it is impossible it can flourish with roots
twisted in, and surrounded with soil almost as firm
as a wall, while the mound effectually excludes
moisture. Trees innumerable have been prevented

APPLES. 73

growing by that rough and erroneous method of
planting, which should forthwith cease.

The right method is to spread out the roots as
in 6, the soil beyond their extremities being well
broken up to the extent of at least three feet from
the stem; and twice that distance preferably;
indeed, it is best to have the ground well worked
throughout. If the site is not wet, the roots near
the stem may be just below the ground line, the
fibrous portions very slightly inclining downwards ;
good soil should be worked well amongst them,
but not manure, and they may be covered about
four inches deep, pressing down the soil carefully
till it is moderately firm, but not hard, and finish
by spreading three inches of half-decayed manure
or vegetable refuse on the surface, and for a foot
beyond the extremities of the roots.

Exactly the same course as to spreading out the
roots to their full extent must be followed in plant-
ing in wet land, but they may be arranged on the
surface or nearly so, as shown, digging soil from
around for working amongst them, and covering as
before, then adding manure as above advised.

Each tree will then be distinctly on a mound,
and it is important that this be three feet wider
than the spread of the roots, or in other words,
their extremities should be eighteen inches from

74 PROFITABLE FKUIT-GROWING.

the outside of the mound. It is surprising how
well trees grow and bear in wet, low-lying soil
when thus planted, especially if the outer edge ol
the mound be thickly covered with manure or litter
of any kind in summer, to keep the soil moist there;
this encourages the multiplication and extension of
roots near the surface, and these produce fruitful
wood ; whereas, if the roots are driven down to
the cold wet subsoil in search of moisture, the
growth resulting, though it may be strong, is essen-
tially unfruitful. If a layer of soil and ashes from
burnt vegetable refuse be spread on the mounds
annually, and a covering of manure given in
summer, the trees will continue in a profitable
bearing state for many years.

Three main points to be kept in mind when
planting, are — 1, always make excavations much
wider than the extension of the roots when spread
straight out ; 2, never sink the stem deeper than
it was before the tree was dug up from the nursery,
judging by the earth-mark on the bark; and 3,
never plant when the soil is in a very wet, unplea-
sant working state, but bear in mind previous
remarks on the subject.

Root and Branch Pruning. — Though the
figures previously referred to show how planting
should and should not be done, they are too small

APPLES. 75

for showing the character of the roots, and the
treatment these should receive — a matter of vital
importance. As the roots are, so will the growth
be. As a rule, too much attention is paid to the
tops of trees, and too little to the roots. A tree
with a small top and a plenitude of healthy fibrous
roots in good soil, will arrive at a profitable bearing
state long before a tree with a large top and a few
unhealthy roots. Look then to the roots; they
are as the main- spring to the watch, or fuel to the
engine — the motive power. If damaged, they must
be repaired and put in the best working order when
planting. As it is quite certain that the majority
for whose benefit these instructions are intended
know little or nothing about the nature of the roots
of trees, and as it is absolutely essential they should
know something on the subject, particular attention
is invited to the two following sketches, for they
teach valuable lessons.

When a tree is dug from the ground, the roots
are more or less broken. Even with the greatest
care they cannot be retained in their integrity. As
a matter of fact, trees are often dug up quickly, and
the strong roots roughly chopped off or broken.
This is not of great consequence if they are rightly
treated, but if neglected, the results may be serious.
A torn or jagged wound in the flesh is slow in

7() PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

healing, a clean cut quickly heals. So it is with
the roots of trees. Look at fig. 26 below; the
main roots were broken, and planted with their

Fig. 26. — BAD PRACTICE IN PLANTING AND NON-PRUNING.

ends jagged. What was the result? Decay, as
shown by the dark portion, few fibres issuing for
supporting the tree, and scarcely any growth
followed. Now turn to fig. 27, page 77; the

APPLES.

77

jagged ends were cut smoothly off. Result ; the
wounds healed forthwith, swelled at the end, and
pushed fibres freely, these in turn pushing the tree

Fig. 27.— GOOD PEACTICE IN PLANTING AND PEUNING.

into growth. The root force of this tree, in two
years after planting, was five times greater than
the other, and the growth differed proportionately,
as may be seen on inspection.

78 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Shortening the Branches. — Examine the
trees closely, root and branch. They were planted
in well-prepared ground in the autumn. The long
young shoots of the badly rooted tree were not
cut back in the spring following, but left their whole
length. All the young roots could do was to imbibe
and send up just enough sap to enable small leaves
to form on the shoots. These neither increased in
length nor number, but fruit buds formed on them,
including one at the end as is shown on the naked
branch on the left, fig. 26, page 76. They formed
on the three other shoots similarly, but are not
shown. The following year they blossomed, and
set fruit towards the end of the branches, and
these being weak were dragged down as shown.
The crop exhausted the tree, and it was practically
ruined, the roots being totally inadequate to force
further growth The only way of restoring such a
tree would be to cut all the five branches boldly
back to within six inches of the main stem. But
look at the time lost ! the whole procedure of let-
ting both the roots and branches alone was a mis-
take, and the penalty an enfeebled and practically
useless tree. It does not matter about fruit weigh-
ing down the branches when trees are well-rooted,
and make shoots as well as produce fruit, but in
the case of young trees with few roots and weak
shoots, it is a misfortune.

APl'LES. 79

It is pleasant to turn to the well-rooted tree.
The five branches, fig. 27, page 77, were cut back
in spring at the lower cross-marks, to less than half
their length ; the root-force was thus concentrated
on fewer buds, with the inevitable result of free
growth ensuing. The five brandies were multi-
plied to ten, incipient fruit spurs forming at the
base of the originals, and wood and fruit buds as
shewn on the two branches on the left. After this
shortening, sufficient branches often form for the
framework of a standard tree, but, if not, they
may be cut back again the second year, though not
so low down as shown in the two cross marks at
X, page 77, or all the buds below will be forced
into growth as shewn, and the interior of the tree
crowded and incapable of bearing ; but if only the
tips of the shoots were cut off, two or three
growths would push from near the ends and blos-
som buds form on the part below, the number of
branches being increased, and fruit buds induced
by the same operation.

Perhaps an enlarged sketch of a branch will
enable the matter to be fully comprehended as it
ought to be. for it is assuredly of great practical
importance. Fig. 28, page 80, represents a branch
exactly as it was cut ofi° an Apple tree when the
buds were swelling. The round, scaly buds are

80

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

blossom and fruit producers, the small buds growth
extenders. The terminal bud, it may be noticed, is
a blossom bud, and should be cut
jg^ off for starting the buds below into

growth, if extension is desired •
but if the shoot had been short-
ened half way down the year pre-
vious, what are blossom buds now
would have been forced into
shoots, crowding the tree with use-
less wood, above referred to as an
evil to be avoided. We want, not
a thicket of useless growths, but a
series of thinly disposed branches
studded with fruit buds from the
base to near the extremity; then,
with a favourable season, we have
the reward of as much fruit as a
tree is capable of producing. And
what is more, indeed the gist of
the whole question, any cottager
can, by following the plain instruc-
tions given, produce such a tree.

Fig. 29, page 81, will show
exactly what to strive for. It i?

Fig. 28.-APPLF a photographic reproduction of a
BRANCH WITH FRUIT , -r»« • A i

AND WOOD BUDS. Cox's Orange Pippin Apple, ne-

APPLES. 01

cessarily greatly reduced, but represented with
absolute fidelity. The branches of the tree as
it is growing, are far enough asunder to admit
the head and shoulders of a man ; that is the
secret of its fruitfulness. The action of the

Fig. 29. — A GOOD APPLE TBEE.

light and air on the leaves compels fruit spurs
to form, as they are shown, all over the tree in
question. If the branches had been crowded, thus
excluding sun and air, blossom buds could only
have set towards the ends of the branches, and

a

82 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

the crop of fruit would not have approached half
of what the tree now produces, namely, one-and-a-
half hundredweight, worth, at the least, 2d. a pound
when ripe, or 285. The tree is twelve years old
from the graft, or nine years from planting, is 12
feet high, and the same in diameter. If an acre
of such trees were grown at 24 feet apart, the
crop would be worth just £100. This uniformity,
however, cannot be relied on, and it will be fair to
take off half for contingencies, and the profit on
culture, placing the cost at £12, will be highly
satisfactory. It is to be remembered, however,
the tree is only half grown, and in five years' time
will be capable of bearing thrice the above weight
of fruit. A tree of the same character, of a variety
of the Nonpareil, in Mr. Jacob's garden, has this
year afforded eight bushels, sold at 85. a bushel,
It is twenty years old, and improving every season.
But it must be clearly understood that the best of
trees, in the care of the best of cultivators, cannot
be relied on to bear full crops every year.

Prunicg — The yearly pruning of trees grown
on the common-sense principle represented, is of
the simplest. All that is needed is to examine
them about midsummer, also in August or
September, and cut back any young shoots
then which threaten to crowd the tree, leaving

APPLES. 83

four or five leaves at the base of each shoot.
Also at the same time the primer should not
hesitate to cut out a main branch here and there
that may cross or otherwise press against the
others. The great object is to secure the admission
of the sun's rays between the branches when in leaf.
Note the condition " when in leaf", for on that
success hinges to a far greater extent than is gener-
ally recognised, even by persons who have been
long entrusted with the management of trees.
Thinning out rather than shortening the main
branches, is a golden rule in pruning for the pro-
duction of fine fruitful trees.

It does no harm whatever to remove any shoots
and branches in summer that may need removal,
and at no other time is it possible to judge with
such accuracy what portions to take out for the
benefit of the tree. No escape of sap follows to
weaken the tree, as is erroneously supposed by
persons who talk without thinking, or write
without experimenting; but the sap is simply
turned into other channels, where it will be of far
greater service than in the crowded parts re-
moved. When summer pruning is carefully done,
very little winter pruning is needed. A few snags
may require to be cut back a little closer, and a
branch shortened here and there which may be

G2

S4 PROFITABLE FEUIT-GROWING.

encroaching on space it is not desired to occupy.
That is all. Summer pruning, intelligently carried
out on the simple lines indicated, is promotive of
fruitfulness, whereas encouraging trees to make a
crowd of young shoots in summer to be cut out in
winter, is very much akin to working on the tread-
mill ; for there is little or no fruit at the end of
the labour, and nothing but shoots keep pushing up,
to be cut out again in the tedious, profitless, yearly
round.

If dwarf Apple trees miss fruiting for a year or
two, through frost destroying the blossoms, too
much growth is often made. This can only be
checked by reducing the roots, severing some of
the strong ones, as shortening the branches alone
aggravates the evil.

Varieties. — A good choice is important, be-
cause obviously inferior varieties take up as much
space, also as much nutriment out of the land, as
superior sorts do. At the National Apple Congress
of the Eoyal Horticultural Society in 1883, upwards
of fourteen hundred varieties considered distinct
were shown. The experience there gained ex-
ploded a popular fallacy, namely, that certain
varieties only succeed in certain districts. Facts
proved conclusively that those Apples which
were best in the south were also best in the north,

APPLES. 85

with trifling exceptions, and even-where; yet
where a good local Apple is found, it would be
foolish not to grow it when it is of great value.

In choosing varieties for planting, the habits of
the trees must be kept distinctly in view, with
freedom of bearing and general usefulness of the
fruit. Some of the most handsome Apples seen at
exhibitions are not the most profitable to grow ; and
varieties that bear most abundantly on very small
trees do not continue profitable for many years,
but are soon " worn out", especially in dry dis-
tricts, and where the soil is not of the best kind for
fruit culture. For practical purposes it will sufiice
to arrange a few useful varieties in three groups,
namely, early bearers for bushes, productive
medium-sized standards for gardens, and large
standards for orchards.

Early Bearers for Bushes. — Early Apples
grown on the Paradise stock are the first to yield
profit, and as they are sold direct from the tree,
the trouble of storing is avoided, and they are
placed in the market before the arrival of large
consignments of fruit from distant lands.

For cooking the following are good: 1, Lord
Sufneld. though it cankers in some soils and may
possibly be superseded by 2, Lord Grosvenor ; 3,
Ecklinville Seedling ; 4, Stirling Castle ; 5, Xew

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Hawthornden ; 6, Domino ; 7, Potts' Seedling ; 8,
Frogmore Prolific ; 9, Cellini (on crab) ; 10, Tom
Putt; for succession — 11, Small's Admirable; 12,
Lane's Prince Albert. If six varieties only are
wanted, choose the second, third, fourth, seventh,
and twelfth; if three, the third, seventh, and twelfth ;
if one, the third. It is much better to plant several
trees of one sort than one each of many.

For table use six varieties will suffice, and the
following are serviceable : 1, Early Red Juneat-
ing (Margaret) ; 2, Fearn's Pippin ; 3, Duchess of
Oldenburg ; 4, Cox's Orange Pippin ; 5, King of
the Pippins ; 6, Scarlet Nonpareil. Eibston Pippin
is omitted because the trees usually commence
cankering soon after they commence bearing. If
only three are wanted, choose the third, fourth, and
fifth ; if one only, plant the fifth.

Productive Medium-sized Standards — These
are very useful for planting six or seven yards
apart on small plots, with dwarf or bush fruits
between. For cooking : 1, Early Julyan ; 2, Kes-
wick Codlin, or Grenadier ; 3, Potts' Seedling ; 4,
^cklinville Seedling; 5, Lane's Prince Albert;
6, Dumelow's Seedling, also known as Wellington
and Normanton Wonder. If three only are re-
quired, plant the third, fourth, and fifth ; if one,
the fourth. For dessert, Worcester Pearmain,

APPLES. 87

Yellow Ingestrie, with the third, fourth, and fifth
in the dessert list for dwarf trees. If three only
are wanted, choose Cox's Orange Pippin, Worcester
Pearmain, and King of the Pippins; if one, the
last named.

Large Orchard Standards. — For planting ten
yards apart, to be growing into profit while the dwarf
sorts are bearing, the choice falls on — 1, Warner's
King; 2, Beauty of Kent; 3, Bramley's Seedling;
4, Mere de Menage ; 5, Annie Elizabeth ; 6, New
Northern Greening. If three only are desired,
the second, third, and sixth will give a long suc-
cession of valuable fruit. The old favourite, Blen-
heim Pippin, is not included, because half a genera-
tion at least must elapse before the trees prove
satisfactorily remunerative.

The fourteen hundred varieties of Apples are now
reduced to twenty-eight, with the more rigid selec-
tion to less than half the number. In choosing,
consideration has been given to hardiness, produc-
tiveness, cheapness of the trees, and the quality of
the fruit. It is customary to evade the difficulty of
choosing a small number of varieties by naming
many. It is easy to select fifty, but not easy to
reduce by gradations in the manner adopted, with-
out including the varieties recommended.

It is to be observed that while they will afford

88 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Apples over a period of nine months, the great bulk
are in season either before the arrival of large
foreign cargoes, or after these are disposed of, thus
leaving the markets practically open for home-
grown fruit — a point of no small importance to the
majority of cultivators.

In large private gardens or experimental planta-
tions several more varieties may be grown for
home use and educational purposes. There are
many good sorts omitted from the above selection
such as (culinary) : Alfriston, Betty Geeson, Blen-
heim Pippin, used also for dessert ; Cox's Pomona,
Emperor Alexander, Golden Noble, Golden Spire,
Lady Henniker, Lord Derby, Mank's Codlin, Nel-
son Codlin, Peasgood's Nonesuch, Queen Caroline,
Stone's Apple, Reinette de Canada, Striped Beefing,
Tower of Glamis, Yorkshire Beauty, and others —
good dessert sorts worthy of being included in ex-
tended collections are, in addition to those previously
mentioned: Astrachan (Red), Braddick's Nonpareil,
Court Pendu. Plat, Devonshire Quarrenden, Clay-
gate Pearmain, Dutch Mignonne, Gravenstein, Irish
Peach, Kerry Pippin, Lord Burghley, Mabbot's
Pearmain, Margil, Melon Apple, Petworth Non-
pareil, Ribston Pippin, Stunner Pippin. All of
these possess good qualities, and the list could be
extended. Well-grown collections of hardy fruit

APPLES. 89

on tlie estates of large proprietors would not only
add a feature of interest and usefulness to their
homes, but be in effect small pomological schools
that might be of service to cottagers and small
holders in the surrounding districts.

A few comparatively new Apples of promise
worth trying are : Bismarck, Lady Sudeley, Mrs.
Barren, The Queen, The Sandringham, Newton
Wonder, Gascoigne's Scarlet, September Beauty,
Beauty of Bath, Tyler's Kernel, Washington, and
Baumann's Red Winter Reinette.

Enemies. — These are : mainly (1) the American
blight, a woolly Aphis which infests the stems and
seriously injures the trees; The remedies for scale
on Pear trees (page 96) aro equally effectual for
he Aphis in question if vigorously forced into
every crevice where the insects are visible. (2) The
Codlin moth, the caterpillar of which causes "worm-
eaten" Apples. Immediately the fruits fall the cater-
pillars leave them and ascend the trees ; they may
be prevented doing so by a band of cotton-wool,
hay, or sacking, well smeared with cart grease
and oil ; soft soap half-a-pound, Stockholm tar and
whale oil, three parts of the former to one of the
latter, the whole slightly heated and mixed ; or of
resin and oil, two-thirds of the former and one of
the latter, melted and mixed ; the bands to be

9U PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

placed round the base of the stem. (3) The Winter
moth, the caterpillars of which devour the blos-
soms and leaves and ruin the crops and trees. It
is the most destructive of pests. The wingless
female moths crawl up the stems in September
for depositing eggs. The smeared bands should
therefore be applied in good time, though they
are not always effectual. After the leaves fall the
petroleum mixture recommended for the woolly
Aphis may be syringed all over the trees, or the
great American remedy, Paris Green, a form of
Arsenic, to which Brunswick Green sold in this
country is similar. This may be used at the
strength of an ounce to six gallons of water in
winter, and at half the strength just when the blos-
soms are expanding. Hellebore powder beaten
into paste with hot water, then mixed at the rate
of an ounce to a gallon of cold water, is safe and
good for the purpose, killing all the caterpillars it
reaches and not injuring the blossom or trees. The
larvae of the Lackey moth and other caterpillars
attack the trees, but the same remedies are applic-
able.

Fowls are of great service in fruit gardens in
devouring insects, except at a time when they might
also partake somewhat too freely of the smaller
kinds of fruits. In plantations of Apples they
can do nothing but good.

PEARS. 91

Lime washing the stems and dusting the branches
thickly in winter, as advised for Gooseberries, is
good for the trees, root and branch, and obnoxious
to their enemies.

PEARS.

Pears are more of a luxury than a necessity, but
a most refreshing and wholesome luxury in large
demand by a great and important section of the
community. They should be grown where they can
be grown well, as they may be in deep fertile soils.
Pyramidal shaped bushes on the Quince stock
usually produce the finest fruit, because the roots
are more fibrous and spread near the surface, where
the soil is generally richer than below. Where it
is of the best character to a depth of two or three
feet, trees grow strongly and bear fine fruit on the
Pear stock.

The procedure in respect to planting, trimming
the roots, and pruning the branches, is precisely the
same as that advised for Apples. Except in very
warm localities, only late summer and early autumn
pears should be planted as orchard standards. A
few of the best are Jargonelle, Williams' Bon

92 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

Chretien, Fertility, Hessle, and Marie Louise d' Uccle.
Of these the three last named are as reliable as any,
and are extensively grown in various parts of the
country. If one tree of a stewing Pear is desired
the Catillac may be chosen. It is hardy, a free
bearer, and boys do not often steal the fruit.

For bush or garden-culture good varieties from
August to the end of the year are: 1, Williams*
Bon Chretien ; 2, Souvenir du Congres ; 3, Beurre
d'Amanlis ; 4, Beurre Hardy ; 5, Beurre Superfin ;
6, Marechal de Cour ; 7, Louise Bonne of Jersey ;
8, Pitmaston Duchess ; 9, Durondeau ; 10,
Beurre Diel ; 11, Doyenne du Cornice; 12,
Emile d'Heyst. Marie Louise is excluded because
the blossom is tender and the fruit is liable to
attack by a fungus. For a reduced list choose
the first, third, fourth, fifth, seventh, eighth, and
eleventh. The fine old Jargonelle is one of the
best early Pears for standards in the Midlands, and
walls in the north, but is not a good (or much less
good) southern Pear. Later Pears, which require
to be grown against a wall in cold and northern
districts, are Glou Mor^eau, Josephine de Malines,
and Bergamotte Esperen. The varieties named
will give a supply for nine months, and are chosen
as among the best and most useful out of six
hundred.

TEARS.

There are two kinds of pyramid, or bush Pears.
1. Pruned trees restricted to a certain size and
shape, suitable for certain positions in gardens.

Fig. 30. — A GOOD PEAR TREE (see page 94).

2. Naturally grown bushes, which are only slightly
pruned, and assume much larger dimensions than
the others. Both kinds bear well, but the latter
eventually yield the greater weight of fruit, and

94 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

are much the easier to manage. These are the
t-ees for cottagers and busy working-men to pro-
duce, and the nearer they approach the specimen,
fig. 30, page 93, the better, It is a splendid tree
of Pitmaston Duchess Pear, twelve years old,
fifteen feet high, and nearly as much in diameter.
Any fruiterer would have given £2 for the crop
last year, before it was gathered, and it was as
good the year previous, this year it is not. The
best of fruit-trees cannot be depended upon to bear
uniformly every year. The branches appear
crowded, but that is the consequence of the enor-
mous reduction by photography, to represent such
a large tree in the small space. The branches are
more than a foot apart, indeed, sufficiently distant
for the sun and air to play amongst them, hence
the fruiting spurs the whole length of the branches,
and the heavy crops of splendid fruit produced.
The tree is on the Pear stock, and growing in soil
that is good to a depth of two or three feet. It
is standing evidence of the truth of Mr. Shirley
Hibberd's aphorism, namely : "IT MUST NEVER

BE FORGOTTEN THAT FRUIT IS THE PRODUCT OF CUL-
TIVATED LAND AND CULTIVATED TALENT" a Sen-

tence which should stand out bold and clear, and
be committed to memory by every person who is
engaged, or about to engage, in the occupation of

PEARS. 95

growing fruit; no matter of what kind. The
pruning to which this fine Pear is subjected is
precisely the same as that described on page 82,
in the chapter on Apples. It is the essence of
simplicity, and practically and philosophically
sound.

Trees for Walls. — The finest of fruit is pro-
duced by trees trained to walls or to boarded
fences, provided the roots are in good soil. It may
be said there are acres of unoccupied wall space,
such as cottages and other buildings, as well as
divisional fences between gardens, that might be
utilised in the manner suggested. There is no
other way in which walls can be covered so quickly
as by planting what are known as cordon trees, or
in other words, trees limited to one stem. If these
are planted about twenty inches apart, the leading
growth not shortened till it reaches the top of the
wall or fence, and the side growths are trimmed in
to within an inch or two of the main stem, the
trees bear abundantly, and the wall is quickly
covered. These are the cheapest of all trees to
purchase, and the easiest to manage. Both kinds,
the upright for lofty walls, and diagonal for low
fences, are represented in fig. 31, page 96. When
side-growths extend in summer, nip off the ends at
the sixth leaf, and shoots that push again to one

yt> PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

leaf as often as produced. In winter cut back the
snags to rounder buds at the base, as indicated by
the cross-lines in the figure, and that is all the
pruning needed by these easily-managed and pro-
ductive trees.

Fig. 81. — COEDOX TREES.

Enemies. — Scale insects on the branches, and
the siug-worm, the larva of the saw-fly (Selaridria),
on the leaves, are the chief enemies of the Pear.

Where scale abounds, the branches have a rusty
incrusted appearance. Methylated spirit brushed
well into the bark destroys scale ; as also does a
solution made by dissolving a quarter of a pound
of soft soap, and a walnut-sized lump of soda, in
a gallon of boiling water, and while hot stirring in
violently a wine-glass-full of petroleum such as is

PLUMS. 97

burned in lamps. In the winter apply with a brush,
stirring the mixture as the work proceeds. The
slug-worm is destroyed by dusting. with freshly-
slaked lime, or syringing with clear lime water,
which is made by mixing a pound or two of lime
in lumps in a pail of water, stirring well, then
allowing it to get clear. If any lime settles at the
bottom of the vessel, the lime-water is as strong
as it can be made ; if there are no settlings it is
not so strong as it should be. Slugs cannot endure
it, and it is beneficial rather than injurious to
all kinds of fruit trees and garden crops.

PLUMS.

Wherever blackthorns or even common haw
thorns grow freely, Plum trees will thrive, indeed
they succeed in any fertile soil, and especially that
which contains some lime. Plains are essentially
useful. In some districts they are more profitable
than Apples, and they come into bearing sooner.
They cannot be depended on to produce full crops
every year, as their early blossoms are occasionally
injured or destroyed by frost. This, however, is a
contingency to which all fruits are liable, but
failures may be reduced to a minimum by the selec-

ii

98 PROFITABLE FRUIT- GROWING.

tion of hardy and prolific varieties. Foremost
amongst these stands the Victoria, with its large,
red, egg-shaped fruit. It is the Plum of Plums
for cottagers and small holders to plant. As an
indication of the extent of its cultivation, 200 tons
of fruit were sent from a small railway station in
North Notts last year, and sold at an average price
of £10 a ton, or an aggregate of £2.000 from one
district, as produced by a number of cultivators.
The year previous, which was a great Plum year,
400 tons were sent from the same station (Tuxford),
and realised an average price of £8, or a total of
£3,200. It is not unusual for a healthy tree to
yield a hundredweight of good fruit, and this at
the low price last named, is equal to £77 per acre
with the trees 15 feet asunder, leaving a profit of
at least £50. The late Ven. Archdeacon Lea, of
Droitwich, who planted three acres of land with
fruit trees in 1865, for experiment, and a similar
extent in 1874, with the object of determining the
profits derivable from different kinds, found Plums
the most satisfactory of trees when the right sort?
were planted. His experiments with fifty-on"
varieties justified his recommending the Vic-
toria, Rivers' Prolific, Pershore, the Diamond,
and Pond's Seedling, as the most profitable for
cottagers. To this list may be added The Czar,

PLUMS. 99

early and productive ; Cox's Emperor (red) and
Monarch are valuable Plunis ; Oullin's Golden, rich
and prolific. Those may be taken ao some of
the most serviceable Plums in cultivation. Rivers'
Prolific and Victoria do not make such large trees as
the others, but are the most certain of bearers.
A Plum of the largest kind is Pond's Seedling (red),
and Pershore (yellow) is the favourite of its colour
for market. The others, where the colour is not
indicated, are bluish purple, the first-named (Rivers')
being the smallest, but valuable because early,
and worthy of its name " Prolific". The very hardy
and free-bearing Crittenden and Prune Damsons
must not be overlooked. Planted in good soil they
practically require no attention, and good fruit
meets with a ready sale in the markets.

The remarks on planting and the general manage-
ment under Apples apply equally to Plums ; and
with the sketches here following the cultural routine
cannot easily be misunderstood.

Fig. 32, page 100, represents a Victoria Plum
tree — one side as it should appear when pruned,
the other showing the result, the crop. It will be
seen the pruned side is not a mass of interlacing
shoots, but is open, with a sufficient number of
small "twiggy" shoots. However, after once or
twice shortening the shoots when a tree is young,

H 2

100

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

for obtaining the requisite number of main brandies,
all that is needed with Plum trees generally is the
occasional removal of a branch here and there that
may crush against the others, and cutting back a
few young shoots to the spurs, or clusters of blossom
buds at the base. But in the case of bearing trees

Fig. 32.— PLUM, PRUNED AND BEARING.

of the Victoria, it is a good plan to shorten strong
shoots that are made in summer, as if these attain
a great length, the brittleness of the wood causes
the branches to break with the weight of fruit.
That is the only fault of this valuable Plum. It is

PLUMS.

101

often necessary to support the branches with forked
props, but these may be to a large extent, if not
entirely, dispensed with, by keeping the head some-
what compact, as shown in the figure. This plan
of shortening a luxuriant branch here and there,
when it extends much beyond
the others, is practised by the
best Nottinghamshire growers,
but is not generally adopted,
because not generally known.
It is seldom, if ever, needed
by other Plums. Victoria
Plum trees are best on stems
not more than 4 feet high, for
convenience of pruning and
gathering the crops. They
are excellent also for walls,
fences, and buildings, bearing
and ripening well on north *fc- SB-PLUM SPUE.
aspects in the southern and midland counties.

It is desirable that beginners in fruit-growing
should learn to distinguish between growth-buds
and blossom-buds, or they may do more harm than
good with the knife. Blossom-buds are round, as
on the spur, fig. 33. The spur was cut from a
tree when the buds were swelling, and the shoot
on the next page was cut off the spur, leaving

102

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

one growth-bud, which is apparent, and equally
apparent is one blossom -bud on the shoot removed,
(fig. 34, below). Better specimens of the dif-
ferent buds could not be desired, nor a better
example of spur-pruning for producing
a large cluster of fruit. The great
point to remember, is the importance
of preventing the interior of the trees
being crowded with shoots by cutting
out those which obstruct the light and
air about midsummer. If they are
allowed to remain to grow into a thicket
evil is done, and cutting them out in
winter is very far from being a satis-
factory remedy. The summer is the
time for relieving, or rather preventing,
overcrowded trees, which never did
produce, and never can produce, the
fullest crops of the finest fruit.

Enemies. — These are mainly aph-
ides, popularly known as lice; the
red spider, an almost invisible insect
that extracts the sap from the leaves,
causing a yellowish hue, as if scorched ;
Fig. 34. and mildew, or fungus, that appears
PLUM SHOOT. -n multitudinous specks. The remedy
for aphides is tobacco water, which may be made

CHERRIES. 103

by pouring soft boiling water at the rate of one
gallon to two ounces of the strongest shag tobacco
and allowing it to stand till cool; its efficacy
is increased by dissolving two ounces of soft
soap in each gallon at the time it is poured on
the tobacco. If this fails, further add a decoction
of quassia, made by boiling " chips", obtainable
from chemists, at the rate of two ounces to a gallon
of water. Tobacco juice, when required in large
quantities, can be purchased more cheaply than it
can be made at home. The remedy for the red
spider is the soft soap solution, mixing a large
handful of sulphur in three gallons. The remedy
for mildew is half an ounce of sulphide of potassium
in a gallon of water. The mixtures are best applied
with a syringe, at the first moment the "enemies"
are seen ; if allowed to become firmly established,
they are most difficult to eradicate.

CHERRIES.

Except in the great Cherry districts, where large
numbers of trees are established, Cherries are the
least serviceable of fruits for cottagers to grow.
The reason is this : where there are a thousand

104 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

times more Cherries than birds can eat, those they
take are not missed ; but where the trees are com-
paratively few, and birds relatively numerous, it is
most difficult to prevent their devouring the crops,
of the sweeter kinds especially. Isolated trees of
these must be netted if the fruit is to be preserved,
and then the cultivation is not profitable. Where
Cherries naturally grow and bear well, and birds do
not unduly abound, the crops are lucrative ; and all
the cultural details for producing them are em-
bodied in the chapters on Apples and Plums. If a
few sweet Cherries are particularly desired for home
use, it is the best to plant a tree or two against a
wall or fence for convenience of netting, the alter-
native being to grow dwarf trees in the open where
they can be protected. Early Rivers, black ; Elton,
pale yellow ; Governor Wood, mottled red ; and
Black Tartarian are excellent varieties. If one only
is required, no great mistake will be made in
choosing Governor Wood, which bears abundantly
fruit of the best quality. Birds, however, do not
attack Morello or Brandy Cherries, so long as they
can obtain any sweeter ; and trees grown as bushes
in the open bear heavy crops in the southern and
midland counties, and the fruit usually finds a
ready sale at a remunerative price to the grower.
They are excellent for growing against the north

OTHER KINDS OF FRUIT. 105

sides of buildings. It is to be understood that cot-
tagers and small farmers are not recommended to
engage in the culture of sweet or dessert Cherries as a
profitable undertaking, except under the special con-
ditions above mentioned, and with the experience
of owners of established trees to guide them. For
enemies and remedies see remarks under PLUMS.

OTHER KINDS OF FRUIT.

There are other kinds of hardy fruit besides
those above mentioned, but however delicious they
are not of substantial value to cottagers, allotment-
holders and small working farmers, hence descrip-
tions of the cultivation of Peaches, Nectarines, Figs,
Vines, Mulberries, and even Apricots would be out
of place in an essay of this nature. In some locali-
ties where Apricots flourish, good bearing trees are
occasionally seen trained against dwellings, and
where these trees exist they form examples for
imitation to persons who wish to have similar
specimens ; and Figs grow well in warm sunny
chalk pits: but practically speaking, the kinds of
fruits named are beyond the scope of the great in-
dustrial body for whom guidance in useful fruit-
growing is desired.

106

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

The large American Blackberries may be grown
if desired, and they cover old walls and fences pro-
fitably where the plants grow well. They like
rather strong and moist soil, succeeding better in
the cool damp north than the dry and sunny south.
In planting and pruning, the advice given for grow-
ing Raspberries is applicable, cutting out the

Fig. 35. — A FRUIT ARCH.

old growths and leaving the young for bearing
being the most important point in management.
They afford clusters of large black fruit in Septem-
ber and October, and what is known as the parsley-
leaved Bramble is one of the best sorts to grow.
They cover arches over walks, as may Apples, Plums,
and Pears, either trained as shown in fig. 35, page

IMPORTANT ITEMS: MANURING- 107

106, or as single cordons, previously referred to.
In this way much excellent fruit may be grown, and
space utilised which otherwise could not afford a
pennyworth of produce.

IMPORTANT ITEMS.

Manuring Fruit Trees. — As a rule too much
manure is given to trees when young, and not suffi-
cient when old or bearing freely. If stout young
wood extends much over a foot in length the soil is
rich enough : if less than that assistance is needed.
The simple mixture recommended for Gooseberries
on page 54, is good for all kinds of fruit, to be
applied as there recommended, as far as the roots
extend. So is a mixture of one part bonedust, two
parts Kainit, and twenty parts of charcoal dust, as
recommended in the Herefordshire Pomona,
to be applied at the rate of a quarter of a pound
to the square yard. Genuine guano is excellent ;
so is nitrate of potash (saltpetre), at the rate of
2 oz. per square yard; and good stable manure
spread on the ground in the autumn, and there
left to decay, encourages growth in weakly trees.
Persons who desire a more scientifically complete

103 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

manure for fruit trees may adopt the formula of
Mr. Edmund Tonks, for Apples, though it is good
for other kinds — superphosphate of lime, twelve
parts (or pounds) ; nitrate of potash, ten ; chloride
of soda, four ; sulphate of magnesia, two ; sulphate
of iron, one ; and sulphate of lime, eight — mix and
apply at the rate of a quarter of a pound to the
square yard to trees that do not make satisfactory
growth. Liquid manure of any kind, applied in
summer or winter, is of great benefit to weakly
trees.

Grafting Trees. — This is one of the oldest arts
in gardening, also one of the most simple and use-
ful, yet a great number of persons who are inter-
ested in fruit-culture are necessarily unacquainted
with the process of converting a Crab into an Apple,
a Quince into a Pear, or making a tree that bears
bad Apples or Pears produce good ones by putting
on new heads. The first conditions for success are
that the cut-down trees, termed stocks, are healthy ;
and the portions to be added, which are called
grafts, or scions, must be of firm, clean, young wood,
not soft succulent shoots.

These grafts or scions should be taken off in
winter before the buds start into growth, and be
laid in damp soil in a cool, shaded place to keep
them back until the sap in the stocks has com-

IMPORTANT ITEMS : GRAFTING.

109

menced moving. That is one of the things to be
remembered — the growth of the stock to be a
little in advance of the scion or graft. Trees,
whether large or small, to be grafted should be cut
down in spring. When other trees are pushing
fresh growths, the still dormant and retarded scions

Fig. 36. — SPLICE GRAFTING.

may be attached. A good time for grafting is
usually early in April. The illustrations, A, B, c,
fig. 36, will make the process clear. The shoot
A is the graft or scion, with the first slice cut off
the end. B is the same, showing an upper cut in

110

PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

the front, and a small shaving taken off the back
to make the end wedge shaped, c is the branch,
or a small tree, shortened, and cut for receiving the
scion, which is placed in position for growing.
With a sharp knife, thoughtfully guided, the work
is easy. That is called splice-grafting, and care
must be taken that the inner bark on one side, at
least, of the stock and scion are brought exactly
together.

In dealing with large
branches, crown-grafting
is the simplest plan to
adopt, and it can be made
plain in a few words.
Given a stock, fig. 37,
headed down (B), three
scions, c, c'. c", are inserted.
They are cut as shown and
slipped down between the
bark and the wood, slits
being made for their inser-
tion at D, and tied ; then the crown of the stem, also
the ligatures, are well covered with wax or clay ;
this applies to both forms of grafting.

Grafting- Wax. — There are different methods
of preparing grafting- wax. The two following are
simple and good : 1. To be used warm. Eesin, 8

Fig. 37.

CROWN GrEAFTING.

IMPORTANT ITEMS : THINNING FRUIT. Ill

parts ; tallow, 3 parts ; red ochre, 3 parts ; bur-
gundy pitch, 1 part. First melt in an iron pot the
resin, add the tallow, and lastly the red ochre.
Stir well together, but do not make, nor use, too
hot. 2. To be used cool. Equal parts of yellow
wax and turpentine, with half as much burgundy
pitch as either, and half as much mutton suet as
pitch. Melt altogether, mix thoroughly, leave
them to cool, then form into small balls and use
when required. The object of grafting- wax is to
exclude air, and, if any cracks appear, they must
be promptly filled, leaving a smooth surface. In
the absence of the above preparations, the object
in view may be accomplished with thick plasters of
clay, made by beating tenacious clay into a paste
with about half the quantity of cow manure and
horse droppings. It must be pressed closely round
the stems, and as often as any cracks form they
must be plastered up.

Thinning Fruit. —Some Apple and other fruit-
trees are notorious for bearing heavily one year,
and remaining practically barren the next. That
is because they are so much exhausted in maturing
the load of fruit, that they cannot at the same time
form and develop blossom buds ; but if the clusters
are well thinned when the fruit is small, leaving one
or two Apples or Pears on a spur, instead of thrice

112 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

that number, and the same with Plums, the fruit at-
tains a much larger size, the crops are more valuable,
and the trees are not unduly weakened. Occasion-
ally complaints are rife about " gluts of fruit", and
the " crops not worth gathering", but high-class
samples have always met with a ready sale during
periods of the greatest abundance, and these are
always to be had by thinning crowded crops on
healthy trees — hence the work ought not to be
neglected.

Gathering Fruit. — It is only necessary to say
in respect to small fruit left to ripen, that it should
not be over-ripe when gathered for travelling, or it
may reach the market in a jam-like mass, and not
realise half the price it would if gathered a day or
two sooner ; still, the other extreme of sending it
obviously unripe must be avoided. Apples and
Pears are ready for gathering when the fruit, if
lifted up by the hand, separates easily at the con-
traction between the stalk and the spur. If the
stalk has to be broken by twisting, the fruit is not
ready, and if torn from the trees in that way, it
soon shrivels. The pips or kernels are sometimes
brown before the fruit is quite ready for gathering.
Late varieties have often to remain on the trees
till late in the autumn. Easy separation at the
natural junction, which no one can fail to observe,

IMPORTANT ITEMS : STORING FRUIT. 113

is the best guide for the inexperienced cultivator to
follow in securing his crops, and he does not then
drag the buds for future crops off the trees.

Fruit should be handled more carefully than eggs,
for it is much more liable to injury than they are
by rough usage. Throwing tender-fleshed Apples
and Pears into baskets, then turning them out
carelessly, as if they were so many potatoes for
pigs, spoils the samples by bruising. The bruises
may not be apparent at the time, but they are there,
and will quickly spread to such an extent as to
reduce the value of the crop at the least fifty per
cent. With a little practice the work can be done
about as quickly when done well as when conducted
in a thoughtless, slipshod manner. The less fruit
is moved about the better, and as far as possible
the sorting should be done at the time of gathering,
separating the small, specked, and malformed from
the large and clear specimens. Thrifty persons
offer the best only for sale, keeping the relatively
inferior at home, after the manner of our business-
like American competitors.

Storing Fruit.— Cottagers and small holders oi
land shall not be tantalised with instructions for
erecting elaborate fruit-rooms and stores. These
are luxuries for the affluent, rather than requisites
for the working population. It is only necessary

114 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

to remember that fruit keeps much better in a cool
and dark place than in a light and warm one3 and
if the surrounding air is a trifle damp, it is better
than if very dry ; but cleanliness and sweetness are
indispensable. Fruit absorbs impurities the same
as butter does. Two examples will teach a
lesson on this point easy to be remembered. A
gardener made mushroom beds in the lower bins of
a fruit-room, the upper being filled with Apples and
Pears, but the effluvium from the manure employed
in the mushroom beds was absorbed by the fruit,
and this, in consequence, spoiled. A gentleman
had a quantity of Apples in a building, into which
rats found their way, and for stopping them had
tar placed in their runs, with the result that all the
fruit was strongly flavoured with tar, and could not
be used. Flour barrels are excellent for storing
fruit in, but petroleum casks or soap cases would be
ruinous. If unblemished Apples are placed in
sweet barrels, and these sufficiently covered with
straw, or placed anywhere beyond the reach of
frost, the fruit will keep as well as in the most
elaborate structures.

Marketing Fruit. — It may appear a strange
statement to make, but it is true, that in agricul-
tural districts less care is exercised in sending Apples
to market than potatoes. The latter are sorted,

IMPORTANT ITEMS: MARKETING FRUIT. 1U

but tons of Apples are offered for sale, specked and
clear all mixed together, just as they come from the
trees. It is a costly mistake. Every season, both
in London and other markets, English ' Blenheim
Orange Apples cannot be sold for more than a
shilling a bushel, while " foreigners" of the same
variety realise four times the price. There is as
much difference between the two as is represented
in fig. 38, below, in which sorted and unsorted

Fig. 38.— APPLES FOR MARKET, SORTED AND UNSORTED.

Apples are shown side by side. Is another sentence
needed to enforce the better way ? One is required
for urging growers not only to sort their fruit but
to let the bulk be uniform throughout. That is the
American plan. If a thousand barrels are sold by
auction, only one, or at most two, are opened, and

116 PROFITABLE FRUIT-GROWING.

according as the brand marks are x. xx. xxx.
so will the bulk be. It is that system of care, with
honesty, that has built up a great trade, and it
ought to teach home-growers a great lesson. Do
not hide the bad under the good, but, as before ad-
vised, let each grower deal with others as he would
wish them to deal with him if they were sellers
and he a purchaser of fruit. That is the case in a
nut-shell, with the shell cracked and the kernel
shown for displaying its soundness, as representing
the true principle of marketing fruit.

CONCLUSION.

Endeavour has been made to treat the im-
portant subject of this essay as fully as possible
within the stipulations — to condense the essen-
tials of fruit culture and fruit management into
its pages ; to teach soundly, and, above all,
plainly, in the hope of teaching usefully those
who have or can acquire land for producing
fruit for their families, and for the inhabitants of
adjacent towns, to the mutual advantage of all.
Given knowledge on the subject, and industry,
many an example proves, and some have been
adduced, that — to quote the words of Alder-

CONCLUSION. 117

man Sir James Whitehead, Bart., Lord Mayor of
London (1889)— "there is no reason why much
land should not be made three times, five times,
as profitable as it is now, by fruit cultivation ; and
if the work is carried out with energy and zeal,
it will be of great benefit to the country we love
so well."

INDEX.

American blight, 89
Aphides, destroying, 102, 103
Apples, bush tree, pruned and
bearing, 18

• precocious prodigies, 19
importance of, 67

improvement in desirable, 67

British and American, 67

raising trees, 68

stocks for, 68

• relative productiveness of, 68

soil and situation for, 69

purchasing trees, 70

planting, 71

right and wrong methods of

planting, 72, 73, 74
root and branch pruning, 74,

75

, examples of, 76, 77

shortening the branches, 78

exhausting young trees, 78

result of correct pruning, 79

fruit and wood buds, 79, 80

a good tree, 81

value of crop of, 82

summer, autumn, and winter

pruning, 82, 83
reducing roots of luxuriant

trees, 84

good varieties, 84

early bearers for bushes, 85, 86

productive medium - sized

standards, 86

large orchard standards, 87

for large collections, 88

experimental plantations, 88

new varieties, 89

enemies and remedies, 89, 90

smeared bauds for trees, 89

Apricots, 105

Arches for fruit trees, 106

Bark, preventing abrasion of, 16
— — protecting from animals, 16

Blackberries, American, 106

Caterpillars, preventing and d*»

stroying, 55

on apple trees, 89, 90

Cherries, and birds, 104

good varieties, 104

Codlin moth and caterpillar, 89

Cordon trees, 96

Currants, value of, 56

Red and white, pruned bushA

57

fruiting branch, 57

summer and winter

pruning, 58

distances of branches, 59

standards, 59

standards, formation of,

60, 61

varieties, 62

Black, value of crops, 63

cuttings and suckers, 63

character of bush, 64

digging and manuring, 65

old and young wood, 65

lime and salt for, 65, 66

enemies and remedies, 6ft

Damsons, good varieties, 99

Early bearing fruits, 22, 85
Examples to be followed :

A farmer's, 5

A widow's, 6

A labourer's, 9

A tradesman's, 10

An allotment holder's, 11

A landlord's, 12

A society's, 13

Fences for fruit trees, 16
Fowls in fruit gardens, 90
Fruit, as an adjunct to farm pro*
duce, 4

INDEX.

119

Fruit, distribution of trees, 14

varieties for fields and hedge-
rows, 15

stations and planting, 16

staking trees, 16

gardens, trees for, 17

thinning, 111

gathering, 112

storing, 113

handling, 113

marketing, 114

Fruits, value of small or bush, 20,
21

kinds not of value to cottagers,

105

Gathering fruit, 112

Gooseberries, raising from cut-
tings, 44

pruning trees, 45, 46, 47

suckers, 45, 46

spurs and young wood, 48

half pruned bush, 50

cropping and summer pruning,

50,51

value of crops, 52

for hedges, walls, or fences, 52,

53

soil and manuring, 54

good varieties, 54

enemies of, 55

painting and liming bushes,

vu

destroying and preventing

caterpillars, 55

Grafting fruit trees, 108, 109, 110
wax, 110, 111

Hellebore solution 90

Insects and remedies, 55, 66, 89,
90, 96, 97, 102, 103

Keeping fruit, 114

Land values and fruit, 3, 11, 117
Lime washing fruit trees, 9 1

water, how to make, 97

Liquid manure, 28, 108

Manures for fruit trees, 106, 107
Marketing fruit, 114
Methylated spirit, 96
Mildew, destroying, 103

Nitrate of potash, 107

Obstacles to fruit culture, 2
Orchards, character of British, 1

Paris green, 90

Pears, Quince and Pear stocks, 91

varieties for orchards, 91

varieties for bush or garden

culture, 92

a good tree, 93

value of crop, 94

pruning, 95

trees for walls, 95

cordon trees, 96

enemies and remedies, 96

Petroleum mixture, 90, 96

Plan of fruit and vegetable garden, 7

of fruit garden, 19

Planting fruit trees, 16

distances for, 1 9

Plums, usefulness of, 97

value of fruit, 98

good varieties, 98, 99

cultural routine, 99

tree pruned and bearing, 100

fruit spurs, 101

wood and blossom buds, 102

enemies and remedies, 102

Produce from small garden, 9

Quassia water, 103

Raspberries, errors in manage-
ment, 33

digging amongst injurious, 34

rational methods of culture,

35

soil for, 35

character of roots, 36

planting and shortening canes,

36, 37

choosing canes, 38

watering and mulching, 39

summer management, 39

thinning suckers, 40

removing canes after fruiting,

40

winter work and pruning, 40

bush in bearing, 41

lines of, 42

- training the canes, 42

- ' self supporting canes, 42
— varieties of, 42, 43

120

INDEX.

Red spider, 102
destroying, 103

Scale, destroying, 96
Slugs, destroying, 97
Soft soap and petroleum mixture
for insects, 96

water, 103

Storing fruit, 113

Strawberries, improving land, 22

cost and profit on culture, 23

raising plants, 23, 24

distances for planting, 25

intercropping with onions, 25

methods of planting, 26

edging for borders, 27

Strawberries, soapsuds for, 27

liquid manure for, 28

keeping fruit clean, 28

• preparing ground for, 29

good varieties, 29, 30

packing fruit in punnets, 30

packing fruit in chip baskets,

31

gathering, 32

sending by post, 33

Sulphide of potassium, 103

Thinning fruit, 111
Tobacco water, making, 103

Winter moth and caterpillar, 90

IONDOW :
WHITING A.HD CO., 30 <fc 32, 8AHDINIA 8TBEET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

" It was a bright idea of the Fruiterers' Company to expend a small
sum for a Prize Essay on Fruit Culture for Cottagers. That the result
was the admirable book by Mr. John Wright may be counted a fortu-
nate circumstance, for prizes do not necessarily bring forth produc-
tions worthy of them, and in this case a public benefit is the result of
what we will term a spirited policy. Mr. Wright's book should be
universally read and extensively acted on." — Gardeners' Magazine.

" This is the essay which was premiated by the Fruiterers' Company r
and its sensible practical character justifies the award. It is free from
exaggerations as to the profit to be derived from fruit culture, at the
same time it is not too discouraging to those who embark in the
business judiciously, and with knowledge of what they are about. As
regards the cultivation and management of market fruits, the author's
advice is plain and good, and growers of fruit would do well to read,
and take note of much that he has written." — Gardeners' Chronicle.

•• Written by a trained horticulturist of great experience as a prac-
tical gardener, a judge at horticultural shows, and a capable instructor
in his journalistic capacity, the treatise is in all respects to be recom-
mended. Mr. Wright was one of the first to urge the need of the more
extensive cultivation of fruit in this country. Yet he has been careful
to avoid such exaggerated estimates of the profits of fruit culture as
have lately been put before the country by sensational writers." —
Agricultural Gazette.

" To all interested in the culture of fruit, but more especially to
those pursuing the practice on a small scale, this is a most valuable
work. It is composed of the essay that gained the twenty-five guineas
and gold medal offered by the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers for
the best essay on ' Profitable Fruit Growing for Cottagers and others
with Small Holdings.' The numerous varieties of fruit all find atten-
tion from the essayist. They are dealt with in a brief but clear and
thoroughly practical manner. The book is freely illustrated, well
printed, and neatly bound, and we heartily commend it to the atten-
tion of all connected with the culture of hardy fruit." — Farming
World.

" Not long ago a prize was offered by the Worshipful Company of
Fruiterers for the best essay upon fruit growing for cottagers and
others. This essay was required to be confined within a certain length,
and it was necessary that a person eligible to compete should have at
least ten years' suitable experience in the cultivation of fruit. In
this way, the Company insured, as far as human foresight could do,
the handling of the subject in a practical and therefore valuable
manner. The prize was awarded to Mr. John Wright, who also received
a gold medal f ron Dr. Hogg. It is to this essay that we now refer. As
far as we have seen there is nothing of the kind in print which is
calculated to be of such signal service to the small cultivator, showing
him, as it does, what to grow, how to grow it, and how to improve the
trees and bushes, and thus insure larger and more valuable crops of
fruit." — Rural World.

" The book should be in the hands of every farmer, every shopkeeper
having a garden, and every owner of a villa and suburban residence
where they can grow fruit. The Board of National Education should
be requested to place it on their list, so as to make it accessible to their
teachers and the higher classes in the schools. If the teacher under-
stood and grew fruit, and gave an occasional lesson to his higher

2 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

classes, using his own garden as an illustration, this would give a very
needed stimulus to fruit culture all over Ireland." — Irish Farmers'
Gazette.

" Mr. John Wright's essay on ' Profitable Fruit Growing,' which won
the gold medal offered by the Fruiterers' Company, is a thoroughly
practical treatise, and affords much information on a subject which
has of late years been attracting more and more attention." — Daily
News.

" ' Profitable Fruit Growing' is the title and subject of the essay
which gained the prize offered this year by the Fruiterers' Company
for competition among the occupiers of small holdings. The author
is Mr. John Wright, who has written extensively on horticultural
questions, and it contains the maximum of good advice, fully illus-
trated and explained, in the minimum of space." — Morning Post.

" ' Profitable Fruit Growing', the prize essay written by Mr. John
Wright, F.R.H.S., for the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers, will be
found a most useful handbook on the subject. Mr. Gladstone has
elevated jam into the rjgion of politics, and Mr. Wright is qualified
to take office as the First Minister of Preserves." — Evening News.

" The merits of Mr. Wright's essay are made patent by the fact that
the judges — men who have devoted special study to the subject — con-
sidered it was worthy of the first prize. It is likely to further very
considerably the aims and objects of those who pay attention to the
cultivation of fruit." — City Press.

" The essay on ' Profitable Fruit Growing,' written by Mr. John
Wright, which gained the gold medal of the Worshipful Company of
Fruiterers of London, is so full of sound sense and practical advice
that it deserves the close attention of all who are interested in its
subject.'' — Scotsman.

" The prize essay on ' Fruit Growing', written by Mr. John Wright,
F.R.H.S., is thoroughly practical, and contains full instructions for
the economical culture of all kinds of fruit grown in the open air in
the British islands." — Scottish Leader.

" Mr. Wright is a thoroughly reliable authority on ' Fruit Culture,'
and he has written a book which cannot fail to be useful. It is in-
structive and stimulative. The advice it gives is quite sound, and is
stated with commendable clearness. The written instructions are
supplemented by excellent illustrations, in which many of the direc-
tions as to pruning, etc., are put before the reader in a way to catch
his eye at once and impress the teaching of the written words upon
his mind. We have nothing but praise for this valuable manual." —
Midland Counties Herald.

" Mr. Wright's prize essay on ' Fruit Culture' is a practical treatise,
written with much literary spirit and effectiveness, and it puts the
various aspects of the problem before us with excellent lucidity, and
with a close attention to all helpful details. There are some useful
illustrations in the book, and, altogether, it may be heartily recom-
mended as a valuable handbook for small holders in England." — New-
castle Daily Herald.

" An extremely interesting and practical account of a branch of
industry that is unfortunately much neglected. To the amateur
gardener, the small farmer, and cottager, Mr. Wright has rendered a
positive service, and we are pleased to record our appreciation of what,
in our opinion, is a most useful work." — Liverpool Journal of Com-
merce.

" The author of the essay written for the Worshipful Company of
Fruiterers, that gained the prize of twenty-five pounds and a gold medal
offered by that body, is a talented and well-known authority on
advanced fruit culture. It treats concisely and most practically of

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 8

the most improved methods of producing all kinds of hardy fruit.
There can be no doubt that fruit growing is a coming industry, and
that the book in question will hasten and expand it more than any
volume that has hitherto been published." — Lci.-d* ^fet•<•ur^/.

•• Mr. Wright's essay is a carefully prepared digest of all the details
of fruit cultivation, and the writer conclusively proves that, if tended
properly, the fruit tree can be made the source of considerable profit
to the small landholder ; and. after a study of the book, cultivators
cannot fail to improve their knowledge of this industry, which pro-
mises to become one of the most important in the kingdom." — J\
•>-ss.

-Mr. John Wright, F.R.H.S., the author of this essay, is a well-
known authority on advanced fruit culture. It treats concisely and
most practically of the most improved methods of producing all kinds
of hardy fruit. The instructions are as plainly displayed and as easily
understood as the alphabet. There can be no doubt that fruit growing
is a coming industry, and that the book in question will hasten and
expand it more than any volume that has hitherto been published." —
Cardiff Wrcltly MniL

" The Fruiterers' Company's prize essay, by Mr. John Wright,
F.R.H.S., is published in a convenient volume. It is at once a stimulus
to better fruit cultivation, and a practical guide to the means whereby
this may be secured. The writer deplores the fact that so much of
the fruit consumed in this country should be imported from abroad,
especially from America, and he thinks that want of care and skill,
and general improgressiveness on the part of English fruit growers,
have as much to do with the matter as the defects of our English
climate and other things often blamed." — Reading Mercury.

"The Worshipful Company of Fruiterers deserve the warmest
thanks for publishing in book form Mr. John Wright's admirable
prize essay on ' Profitable Fruit Growing.' The question of fruit
growing is one that is now, happily, more closely engaging the atten-
tion of farmers and others. Hitherto England has given a very poor
report as to cultivation in this respect, with the result that the impor-
tations of fruit are increasing every year. To make fruit growing
profitable, however, they are many rules to be observed, and these Mr.
Wright, in his essay, dilates upon in a common-sense practical manner."
7 Journal.

- We heartily commend the volume to the notice of cottagers and
allotment holders, also to those gentlemen who are anxious to promote
the success of these struggling working-men. A copy or two placed
in the village reading-room would be of great value. The essay con-
veys details on the selection of the most suitable varieties of fruits,
and the planting, ^ pruning, and other essential operations in the
management of fruit trees and fruit-bearing bushe?. also on gathering,
storing, and disposing of the crops. Like its gifted author, we shall
not consider it satisfactory if it does not prove serviceable to many (at
present inexperienced) cultivators of hardy fruit."— Lincolnshire
Chrcnicle.

PUBLISHED OPINIONS OF EXPERTS.

(From the JOUENAL OF HORTICULTUKE.)

" Many thanks for the very handsome and excellent essay on fruit
growing1. The more I examine it the better I like it." — A. F. BAEEON,
Royal Horticultural Society's Garden*, Chiswwk.

" I have had a run through Mr. Wright's essay on fruit culture, and
am very much pleased with it. It is a sound ' multum in parvo,' and
cannot fail to be useful to all who may master its contents and have
an opportunity of acting on them." — D. THOMSON, Gardener to the
Dulif of Jhiccleucli, Drumlanrig.

" I have read Mr. Wright's prize essay, and truthfully assert that I
have never before seen a subject treated in such a brief yet thoroughly
instructive manner. The work is turned out in first-class style, and
gardeners generally ought to possess a copy, for they will find nothing
nearly so plain, reliable, and instructive in any other work of the
kind." — W, IGGULDEN, Gardener to the Earl of Cork, 3 f first on.

" The treatise on profitable fruit growing, although so concise,
really contains all that is necessary, and if the advice in it be followed
it will justify the title. Being naturally rather critical, I thought it
possible I might find in it something with which I might not agree,
but as to treatment I have found nothing."

" I have carefully read the prize essay of Mr. J. Wright. It is written
to aid cottagers and other small holders of land to grow fruit, and is
just what is needed by them. But it should also be in the hands of
every gardener. Young men especially should read it attentively,
and they may learn more about hardy fruit growing than they fre-
quently do after several years of ordinary practice in gardens. I
regret that such a good and cheap little book was not in my hands
twenty years ago. It would have saved me many blunders and mis-
takes since then."— WM. BAEDNEY, Gardener to Sir A. B. Walker,
]',<irt , Osmastoji Jfftnnr.

" Both Mr. Wright and the Worshipful Company of Fruiterers must
be congratulated on placing before the public such a wonderfully
cheap and practical essay. There are capital selections of the various
fruits to be grown, and plain and concise instructions are given on
the different modes of culture. The illustrations as to form of trees,
planting, pruning, packing the fruit, with plans of gardens, are useful,
and altogether we have a capital shilling's worth." — A. YOUNG, Allcrlcy
Hall Gardens, St-wport.

"• I sincerely hope my Irish countrymen will read well and inwardly
digest the handbook on profitable fruit culture by Mr. J. Wright,
which places within the most convenient brief limits the most practisal
information on this increasingly important subject. The soil and
climate of Munster cannot be excelled in the British Isles for fruit
culture. Information is necessary. That information Mr. Wright gives
succinctly and in such a way that it would be impossible to do justice
to it by summarising." — W. J. MUEPHY, Clonmel.

" A most practical and valuable work for small gardens, cottage, or
allotment owners; fully illustrated, and valuable for it* sound teach-
ing. Just the work for distribution among cottage garden societies,.
etc."— GEOEGE BUNYAED, Alaidstone (in " Fruit Growing for Profit").

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