. is ^^^^^^^^^^ PROGRESSIVE COOKERY ^ BY (DRS. E. A\. HINCKLEY - >: .. + .; . + ; ^ + ; THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES IT WASHES' THEM WHITER AND SOFTER THAN ANY OTHER BRAND IT NEEDS NO ^*,^IT NEEDS NO BOILER Wielanfc & SDinmore MAKE IT ^ X\i CA-AAA. . Good- Bye, Milkman! USE HIGHLAND" (Team // is prepared with neatness and scrupulous care, always as pure, sound and natural as it comes fresh from healthy cows, always ready for use, keeps perfectly sweet as long as the can remains closed and thoroughly takes the place of eitbet raw mik or cream if properly diluted. Of special value for infant feeding, being completely sterilised. /'OK SALE RY GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS Prepared by Helvetia Milk Condensing Co. HIGHLAND, ILL. THE LEADING TOURIST AND FAMILY HOTEL ON THE COAST CORNER OF SUITER AND JONES STREETS SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. Large and Sunny Rooms En Suite or Single, for Families and Transient Sanitary Plumbing and all Modern Improvements. SPECIHL INDUCEMENTS TO EflSTERN TOURISTS CUISINE UNSURPASSED A\RS. A\. E. PE/MDi-ETOtt, Prop. BUTTERICK & GO'S Celebrated For Ladies, Misses, boys and Little Children's Garments Catalogues mailed free H. K. 124 POST STREET SAN FRANCISCO THESE ENGRAVINGS REPRESENT ACCURATE AND USEFUL FOR SALE ONLY BY Mrs. E. M. Hinckley Orders may be left at Robertson's Book Store 126 POST STREET, S. F. AT COOK BOOKS Robertson's 126 POST STREET, S. F. RUSSIAN COFFEE POT For making Drip Coffee By using this Coffee Pot, double the usual quantity of coffee may be made from the same amount of ground coffee. It not only boils, but steams the coffee. While the water is boiling the steam ascends and permeates the ground coffee, and when the water boils the bowl is reversed by touch ing the handle and the water drips slowly through, carry- ing with it the full strength and aroma of the coffee, no steam or aroma escaping. We have them in sizes to hold from two cups to twelve cups each, at prices from $3.50 to $8.50 a piece. They are made of brass, handsomely mounted, and suspended from a brass arch, and beneath is a stationary alcohol lamp. Coffee made in this way should be prepared on the table, just prior to time of serving it; less than five minutes are required to pre- pare it. It is particularly recommended for after-dinner (black) coffee. This pot will soon pay for itself by the great quantity of coffee saved. FOB SALE ONLY BY GOLDBERG, BOWEN LEBENBAUM J=R7SNCISCO. Waiifs ESTKBL.ISHED 1556 213 SUTTER STREET Near Kearny Street San Francisco, Cal. Only the best of material is used in our establishment, and therefore our products are strictly first class. Terrapin Stew a Specialty. Wedding Breakfasts, Overland Lunches prepared. Family trade solicited. The Family Dining-Rootn connected with our establishment offers the best inducements to Eastern Visitors who are in search of a quiet, elegantly appointed Restaurant of undoubted excellence. SWAIN BROTHERS, 213 Sutter Street No connection with any other establishment. IK YOU WISH TO Bake or Roa^t WITHOUT, AT THE SAME TIME Quickly Evenly Thoroughly^ Economically ROASTING THE COOK THE MONITOR STEEL RANCEI HOLB^OOK, MET^ILL & STETSO^ San Francisco and Sacramento Sole Agents for the Pacific Coast Extract of DCCC utti. The best and most economical "Stock" for I A T Soups, Etc. % ?f One pound equals forty-five pounds of h* prime lean Beef. N< Send to us for our book of receipts, showing H U use of ARMOUR'S EXTRACT in Soups and A Sauces. ARMOUR & CO., Chicago. Z FOR SALE BY ALL GROCERS AND DRUGGISTS W. F. BECK & CO. * Commission Merchants OFFICE AND SALESROOMS: WAREHOUSE: 112 and 1 14 California St. 30 and 32 Fremont St. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. BRKNCH HOUSES PORTLAND, OREGON - - - - 26 North Front Street CHICAGO, IM,. - . 55 wabash Avenue 1,08 ANGELES, CAI,. . aa8 West Second Street REPRESENTING ON PACIFIC COAST PRICE BAKING POWDER Co., Chicago, 111. LAUTZ BROS & Co. Soaps, Buffalo, N. Y. NATIONAL STARCH MFG. Co., New York, N. Y. L. MCMURRAY PACKING Co., Fredrick, Md. TOWLK SYRUP Co., St. Paul, Minn. 'PAERELL Co.-Syrups, Omaha, Neb. COOPER'S OLIVB OIL. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY COMPILED FROM A SERIES OF LESSONS GIVEN AT THE SCHOOL OF COOKERY UNDER THE DIRECTION OF MRS. E. M. HINCKLEY AUTHOR OK "CHAFING DISH COOKERY," "INVALID COOKERY," ETC., ETC. f MRS. E. M. HINCKLETS SERVICES CAN BE SECURED FOR Demonstration Lessons in Cookery, American and Foreign And Lessons in Practical Cookery. The Invalid Course to Nurses at Hospitals and Lessons at Private Institutions are the same as given at the Public Schools of Boston. For Particulars, address the Publishers, as below. f San jfrancisco printing Co. JAS. A. PABISER, MANAGKK 1892. MEDICAL OBSTETRICAL SURGICAL [Confinement] "Alpha" Male ^ Female Nurses', Dressers'^ Masseurs' Agency Established July, 188'J. Registered at Sacramento, February. 1S92. FRANK E. GOODBAN, Proprietor MRS. F. K. GOODliAX, Manager Main Office, 1117 Van Ness Ave., bet. Geary and Tost Streets, S. F., < ;il. L. D. TELEPHONE li.'iT!'. Branches: S3 Grant Ave. (open all night), 131, Suffer, SIM Geary, 1113&SOOO Market >7.--.. / Fran- cisco; cor. Seventh & Market and 1201 Broadway Sts., Oakland: a A Second Ave., San .Uatui: Fourth & KSts., Sacramento; 9!& Main St., Stockton; E. Santa Clara ct- Second Sts., San Jose: ,',<> / Ave., Santa Cruz; Fourth and B Sts., San Rafael; Park St. fr Santa Clara Ave., Alamcda: and Center and Shattnck Sts., Berkeley. Experienced and reliable MALE and FEMALE Professional Nurses (with or without diplomas). Dressers or Masseurs furnished for every kind of disease, at ANY HOUR of the DAY or NIGHT, to all parts of the city or country. No FEE CHARGED FOR FURNISHING THEM. OVERTWO HUNDRED PICKED NURSEsof all ages, religions, nationalities and training (from the best hospitals in America and Europe) onits list. Leeching, Cupping, Catheterizing and Dressing of any kind performed (instrument* provided), Anaesthetics administered, Operations and Autopsies attended, liaths (medicated or otherwise given), also Galvanic and Faradic Electricity or Massage Treatment, at private residences by skilled dressers subject to the instructions of the patient's doctor. Helpless and insane patients accompanied to and brought from distant places, in a care- ful and satisfactory manner by responsible attendants furnished with all the requisite appliances. TERMS: REGULAR NURSES (1st grade): FEMALE, (for female patients) $20 to $25; (for male and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $25. per week MALE, $5 per day or night (of twelve hours), $8 for both. DITTO, (2d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) 120, (for male and insane patients or contagious diseases of both sexes) $20 to $25 per week MALK. $ I to $5 per day or night, $7 to $8 for both. ASSISTANT OR SOCIETY NURSES (3d grade): FEMALE (for female patients) |16: (for male and insane patients) $16to$20 per week, MALE, $3 to |4 per day or night, $5 to $6 for both. Female Nurses by the day: First grade, f3.75; Second Do., $3 to $3.50: Third Do., $2.30 to $2.75. Nurses' meals, massage treatments and traveling expenses for any member sent outside of San Francisco are additional to the above rates. DRESSERS, MALE OR FEMALE, $2 to $5 per visit. MASSEURS, MALE, general treatments $2 to $2.50, local treatments three for $5. Female, general treatments $1.50 to $2.00, local treatments three for $4. Dressers' and Masseurs' prices are for the city only, country visits extra. For Itemized Prices see Price Lists at the Agency's Main or Branch Offices, which its members are not permitted to exceed when engaged on cases coming through it, any reduc- tion in the same being left to their own option. N. B. All the members of this Agencv are required to furnish the favorable recommen- dations of three physicians as to their habits and proficiency, before being placed on its list. and are only retained on it during such time as they prove reasonably satisfactory to their employers; they are in addition divided into three grades, according to their ability, experience, training, manner and duration of satisfactory membership, their prices varying accordingly, the 1st grade consisting of those who have been tried on the Agency's cases and found entirely competent and satisfactory; the 2d either new members or those not sufficiently qualified for the former class, the 3d are attendants only. Doctors and patrons will greatly aid the proprietor in his endeavors to supply none but satisfactory and competent persons'by reporting to his wife (the manager) or himself, if disengaged, at the Main Office, should any serious neglect or fault be committed, or overcharge be made, by one of its members while in their employ, and such communications will be at once seen to and, if wished, held strictly confidential; as changes for said reasons in the Agency's staff are occasionally made by him, he guarantees as members only those sent from it. either direct or through its branch offices, at the time the order for the nurse is given. No attention should be paid to nurses who state that they are members of this Agency, unless endorsed at the Main Office, as many represent themselves as such, whose applications have not been received, or whose names" through some fault on their part have been removed from its list. Back Rests and Bed Tables, Rubber Rings, and Mattresses, Bed Pans, Night Stools, Nurses Supplies and all the latest Mechanical Comforts for Invalids for sale C. O. D. Invalid Chairs for sale or rental. EXPLANATORY A rook hook cannot l>e like an encyclopedia. If all the explana- tions necessary were given for each recipe, this work would fill volumes. All the money in the world will not bring ahout looked-for results in cooking, unless all the materials are properly prepared. All odds and ends left over from the tahle should be put carefully away, as they can be utilized in various ways. Bread Crumbs that cannot be used for toast or puddings, may be dried in the oven (not browned) rolled, sifted, and put away in a jar, and are much better than crackers, for rissoles, croquettes, oys- ters, etc. Stale bread crumbs are made by simply rubbing through the palms of the hands. To Cooks. Make use of everything. Waste nothing. Have no prejudices. Be careful, clean and j>i<,n-tn give dirert rules for roasting. I toast meats, rare - per pound, ten minutes. Roast meats, well done per pound, fifteen minutes. Lamb ami veal - - per pound, twenty minutes. Turkey ten ]>ound, three hours. ( 1 hirken - three pound, one hour. eef, half a pound of liver and any trimmings of meat you may have, a veal bone; two and one-half quarts of cold water, teaspoon of salt, six whole cloves, six black pepper corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, one inch blade of mace, a stalk of celery, one carrot, onion and turnip chopped. Soak the meat in the water one and one-half hours before heating; then add vegetables, spices and herbs; simmer seven hours and strain. AVhen needed for soup remove the fat and it will be ready for use. Soup stock keeps longer without vegetables. Never add water to soup after it begins to simmer. Consomme, or White Soup Stock. The above recipe will answer for white stock, using, instead of beef, veal or one large chicken. Clearing- for Consomme or Bouillon. Skim off all the fat. Turn the soup into the pot, being careful not to turn in the sediment, and set on the fire. Beat the white and shell of two eggs with one cup of cold water. Stir into the soup, and when it comes to a boil set back where it will come to a simmer twenty minutes. Strain through a napkin wet in ice water, and if not ready to use, put away 17 18 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY in a cool place. Ordinarily do not clear your soups, as the albumen is contained in the sediment, and is the most nourishing part of the soup. A piece of liver added to dark soups is considered by many an improvement. All milk soups and sauces should be cooked in double boiler. Royal Custard. Half a cup of consomme. Beat the yolks of the two eggs (left from cleared consomme), and one-quarter tea- spoon of salt, stir into the consomm/. Butter a cup, pour in the custard, put the cup in a deep pan, and surround with hot water- Cook on the top of stove or in the oven until firm in the center. Let the custard cool. Turn out, cut in cubes, and add to consomme after it is dished. Julienne Soup. One quart of stock, one scant pint of mixed vegetables. Cut vegetables with French cutter, and celery and onions into shreds. Cover with one pint of boiling water, when cooked add the one quart of hot stock. Season to taste. A little Worcestershire sauce may be added. Macaroni and Vermicelli Soup. One quart of stock, one cup of vermicelli, or two to three sticks of macaroni, cooked until soft in salted water. Drain and add the quart of hot stock; season to taste. Rice, Tapioca and Barley Soup. Two tablespoons of rice, tapi- oca or barley, cooked until tender, in boiling salted water, then pour on one quart of hot stock. Barley must be soaked one hour and boiled two hours or more. Rice is better with mutton or chicken stock ; season to taste. Tomato Soup. One quart of stock, one can of tomatoes ; cook the tomatoes until soft enough to strain. Strain and add to one quart of hot stock, season to taste, add one teaspoon of sugar and two tablespoons of boiled rice. I'WHiKKSSIYK COOKKKY 19 Mixed Vegetable Soup. One quart of stock. Chop one Final 1 carrot, one onion, one turnip, one parsnip, one tablespoon of parsley, one stalk of celery, one cup of strained tomatoes. Cook vegetables and tomatoes together, add a quart of hot stock. Some people prefer the onion fried, as it gives a richer flavor. Season. Split Pea Soup. One-half pint of split peas, one quart of cold water, a speck of soda, one small carrot, one small turnip, one small onion, a stalk of celery. Pick over and wash the peas, put on, with the water and soda : cook on the back of the stove one hour. Then add the vegetables, which must be cut small and previously boiled until tender in another saucepan, seasoning with one-half teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of salt and a speck of pepper; simmer one hour more, or until soft. Hub through a strainer. Heat again, and stir into the soup one-half tablespoon of butter mixed with one-half tablespoon of flour. Serve with fried croutons of bread, or toasted crackers. Lentil Soup. Make the same as split pea soup, using more water. This excellent vegetable is not generally known, but is much superior to beans or dried peas. Most of what we receive here comes from (ierinany. Many persons consider them more expensive than beans or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four times their size when soaked. Noodles for Soup. Break one large egg into a bowl. Beat into it one cup of flour. Work with the hands until like putty. Dredge a bread board slightly with flour. Put the noodle mixture on the board, sprinkle the rolling pin with flour, and roll as thin as possible. It should l>e so thin you can look through it. Let it dry for ten minutes, then roll it up and cut with a sharp knife into very thin slices; spread on the board and dry again for one-half hour. Cook rapidly fifteen minutes in boiling water, with one tablespoon of salt. Put half the noodles into soup. Fry the others in browned butter, and use as a vegetable. 20 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Italian Soup. Any dark stock will answer. Cook vermicelli or spaghetti; put in hot tureen, grate on some cheese and stir. Pour over the boiling stock and serve. Ox Tail Soup. Four ox tails, one onion, two tablespoons of butter, or beef drippings, four quarts of cold water, a bouquet, four cloves, six whole peppers. Have the ox tails separated at the joints. Fry chopped onion in hot butter or drippings ; when brown put into soup kettle with bouquet, cloves, whole peppers and ox tails; pour over the four quarts of cold water, and add one tablespoon of salt, dimmer five hours. Select the nicest of joints to serve in soup; strain, put away until cold, remove fat, add the joints and heat. Put in hot tureen one tablespoon of wine and one slice of lemon. Season the soup to taste, pour into tureen and serve. Bouquet. One sprig each of thyme, sweet marjoram and summer savory, two leaves of sage, one bay leaf, tied with a sprig of parsley. Meat Glaze. Meat glaze is made by reducing to one- third )>y simmering, water that such meats as chicken, mutton, etc., have been boiled in. When properly made will keep for three or four months in a cold place. Put into air tight jars until needed. Mock Turtle Soup. One calf's head, one pound of lean beef, one carrot, one onion, one turnip, piece of celery, three eggs, one lemon, six whole peppers, six allspice, six cloves, bouquet, one table- spoon of salt. Scrape, wash and cleave the head removing the brains. Put into soup kettle with beef, spices, bouquet, etc., pour on four quarts of cold water. Chop vegetables, heat two tablespoons of butter or drippings, fry brown, add to soup. Cook head until tender and remove. Reduce stock to two quarts, strain, cool and remove fat; put stock on to boil ten minutes before serving. Brown two tablespoons of butter, stir in two tablespoons of flour, moisten with one cup of soup, stir into soup. Have two eggs boiled hard cut into dice. Make forcemeat balls of reserved brains. Have brains PROGKKSSIYK COOKERY 21 blanched l>v j touring over them boiling water, then dropping in cold water, remove veins and skin; put on in boiling salted water, cook one-half hour, chop, season with pepper, salt and a speck of cayenne, squeeze in one-half lemon and a few drops of onion juice, one table- spoon of flour, one tablespoon of melted butter; beat yolk of remain- ing egg and add to mixture; form into balls the size of a nutmeg, roll in flour, brown in hot butter. Serve two in each soup plate. Put the hard boiled eggs into the tureen with two tablespoons of sherry. Pour over the !?oup. Serve. Gumbo Soup. Brown a tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, one chopped onion, with about one tablespoon of raw ham cut into dice shape, half a green pepper cut into small dice, half a tablespoon of salt and a teaspoon of pepper. Moisten with three pints of stock, add one tablespoon of raw rice, six sliced gumbos and one sliced tomato. Let all cook thoroughly for half an hour. Puree of Green Peas, Lima Beans, Corn, Celery, etc. One quart of fresh peas, or a can of French beans or corn, one quart of boiling water, one tablespoon of butter, one quart of milk or cream. Cook until soft in the boiling water, then rub through a puree sieve, moistening occasionally with water in which they were cooked. Put into a double boiler the pint of cream or milk, add one saltspoon of white pepper and one teaspoon of salt. Heat your sauce pan, put in the butter, add a teaspoon of flour, be careful not to burn, pour in a part of milk gradually. Return to double boiler, adding sifted vegetable ; cook all together for five minutes; serve hot. If not salt the yolk of three hard-boiled eggs fine, and mix them with one-half cup of bread crumbs soaked until soft in a little milk. Chop the white meat of the chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the _ r ir and bread paste. Add one pint of hot cream slowly, and then rub all into the hot chicken liquor. Simmer five minutes; add more salt, if needed, and if too thick add more cream, or if not thick enough more crumbs. It should be like a puree. Use the dark meat for croquettes. Mock Bisque Soup. One-half can of tomatoes, one quart of milk, one-fourth cup of butter, one tablespoon of flour, one teaspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of white pepper. Stew the tomatoes till soft. Heat the milk in the double boiler. Heat the butter, add Hour, iln not 6rom, add enough of hot milk to make this pour eas- ily. Stir carefully into the boiling milk, cook ten minutes. Add salt and pepper to the tomatoes, also a saltspoon of soda. Strain into the milk. Serve very hot, with cheese canopees. Bisque of Crab. Meat of a small crab, one tablespoon of flour, one-quarter of a cup of butter, salt and pepper, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of onion juice, a grating of nutmeg. Chop the crab fine, season, add butter melted, and one cup of stale bread crumbs. Pour over this one quart of hot milk, stir, put in the soup kettle, cook ten minutes, xfrniii, heat again. Serve hot. It may need more seasoning. Claret Soup. Boil the claret with six whole cloves, a stick of earled tapioca. Strain claret into the stock. Season and serve. Crofiton for Soup. Cut bread in slices one-half inch thick, remove the crusts, spread with butter, cut in cubes. 1'ut in the pan. 26 PROGKKSS1YK COOKERY being careful to keep the buttered side up. Cook in the oven until golden brown. Serve hot; or heat butter in the frying pan, and fry the bread unbuttered. Baked Crackers. One-half teaspoon of butter to each whole cracker. Split round Boston crackers, spread them with a thin layer of butter. Put them buttered side up into a pan, and brown in a hot oven. Serve plain, or with soups and oyster stews. Baked Crackers with Cheese. Mix six tablespoons of grated cheese, a saltspoon of pepper, a speck of salt. Split six Boston crackers, butter them and put a teaspoon of the cheese mixture on them. Bake till crisp and brown. Cheese Canopees. Cut stale bread in slices one-half inch thick;, cut with small biscuit-cutter. Then cut the circles in half; they should be crescent shape. Spread with butter, sprinkle with pepper and Parmesan cheese. Brown in oven. Croiiton Souffle. Into half a pint of cold water stir, until smooth, one and a half cupfuls of flour, turn the same into a spider with a small cup of butter, cook and stir all the time until well done; when cooled add four beaten eggs; beat well and drop the dough in small round balls on a tin, fifteen minutes. Celery Soup. One head of celery, two cups of mashed potatoes, one onion, one quart of milk, one cup of whipped cream. Chop the best part of the celery. Put into double boiler the milk ; when hot season; add the celery potatoes and onion, cut in fine pieces. Cook forty moments, rub through a sieve, return to double boiler; when very hot pour into heated soup tureen, stir in the whipped cream. Cardinal Soup. One pint of white broth, one pint of good milk, one onion, a bouquet, six beets, two tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of white pepper. Boil PROGKKSSIYK COOKER V 21 the beets till soft and strain out the juice. Put the broth and milk in double boiler, add the bouquet tied in a small piece of cheese cloth, when hot remove the bouquet. Heat the butter in hot saucepan and fry chopped onion till of a golden brown. Strain out the onion, add to the butter the flour, pour gradually over this a part of the hot milk and broth, then stir all into the double 1 toiler. Cook five minutes, strain, add the hot juice of the beets. More seasoning may be needed. Okra Gumbo. One tender five-pound chicken, one onion, one-half do/en tomatoes, one and one-half dozen okra, browned flour, two red peppers. Wash the chicken clean and cut in small pieces. Puttwo tablespoons of butter in a saucepan, have the onion sliced and sprinkled with browned flour and fry a light brown, then add the red peppers cut up fine, then sprinkle the chicken with brown flour, then add sliced tomatoes and fry altogether a light brown. Put in soup kettle; add two quarts of hot water. Then add the sliced okra. season with salt to taste, cook two hours. This soup must be thick, dark and rich. Serve with rice cooked dry. FISH To be good fish m-uxt be fresh. Select those with flesh firm, eyes clear, the fins stiff, the gills red and hard to open. The success of the French in preparing fish is owing to the extreme care which they take both in the buying and the treatment before cooking. After cleaning carefully, lemon juice is squeezed over the fish, then peppered, salted and strewed with powdered sweet herbs and let stand one hour before cooking. Lemon juice makes fish flaky. Fish a la Normandie. Take two large mackerel or sole, have them boned. Stuffing: One dessertspoon of sifted sweet herbs, one cup of crumbs, two ounces of butter, one onion or shalot, one of chopped parsley, one of mushrooms. Spread the stuffing over the fish, season, place the other fish on top, with two ounces of butter dropped in bits over it. Put in oven, bake half an hour. When baked sprinkle with bread crumbs browned in hot butter, a little lemon juice, and serve with piquante sauce. Breaded Turbans of Flounders. Fillet three flounders, season and marinate with four tablespoons of melted butter, two tablespoons of lemon juice, and one tablespoon of chopped parsley. Koll them up, skewer, then roll in bread crumbs, then in egg, then again in dry stale bread crumbs. Fry four minutes in fat hot enough to brown a bit of bread in one minute. Serve with remoullde sauce. One flounder will cut into four fillets. To vary these, enclose an oyster or mushroom. Wooden toothpicks may be used for skewer- ing. Marinate is to dip in melted butter. Use a wire basket to fry in. PROGKKSSIVK COOKERY 29 Fish en Papillate . Select six tomcods of equal size. Clean and stuff with dry stuffing. Season the outsides with salt and pepper, squeeze over it a few drops of lemon juice. Have ready six sheets of soft white paper, oiled, longer and wider than fish, put fish in center of paper. Lay on the paper one tablespoon of cooked fine herlis. lay the fish on top, spread another tablespoon of herbs and dressing on the fish, then fold the paper and turn up the edges. Serve hot in paper with Sauce Tartare. Cooked Fresh Herbs. Chop one onion, fry in two tablespoons iif 1 aitter five minutes, then add double the quantity of finely minced mushrooms and a grain of garlic, season, with one-half teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, and tablespoon of chopped parsley. Cook ten minutes longer and then let it cool. Remove the grain of garlic. Fish Cooked with Oysters. Fillet four flounders and sprinkle >ver a few drops of lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, let them stand awhile. Melt three tablespoons of butter and dip the fish in. Lay in the center of the fish two large oysters, or a spoon- ful of California oysters. Fold the smaller end over the larger and skewer with small skewer. Dip in egg and bread crumbs and bake or fry, whichever is preferred. If baked put pieces of butter over the top. Serve with Sauce Piquante. Fish Baked with Oil and Tomatoes. Take fish of suitable size, prepare as before directed, put in a fish dish, cover with olive oil, then spread thickly with slices of tomatoes; bake till skin cracks. Serve with any sauce preferred, garnish with slices of raw tomatoes and sliced egg and parsley. Fish Chowder. Three pounds of sliced cod or haddock, two onions, six potatoes, one-half pound of salt pork, one-half teaspoon of pepper, two teaspoons of salt, four pilot crackers, one pint of milk. Slice 30 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY potatoes, onions and pork. Fry out pork in kettle, add one-third of the sliced onion, fry brown. Have fish cut in small pieces, put a layer in the kettle, then one of onion and potato and seasoning, and so on until all is used; cover with boiling water; cook three quarters of an hour. Heat milk, thicken with two tablespoons of flour, one table- spoon of butter; when cooked pour into chowder. Cover pilot bread with cold water on dish in which chowder is to be served and set in warm place. Pour the chowder over the bread and serve. Fried Fish. Small white bate and sardines fry in a wire basket, in deep fat until brown, salt and pepper. The bones can be easily removed from sardines. Have the bones removed from smelts in market, wash and wipe dry, squeeze over a little lemon juice, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs, corn meal or flour; fry in hot salt pork or sweet oil. Stuffed Smelts. Clean and bone one-half dozen large smelts and season with salt, stuff with oyster forcemeat two-thirds full. Roll them in melted butter, then in fine bread crumbs. Bake them in a hot oven in a shallow pan for fifteen minutes, basting once with butter. Serve with mushroom sauce. Oyster Forcemeat. Chop fine one dozen large oysters, add one pint of stale bread crumbs, three tablespoons of butter, one teaspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon of minced parsley, a slight grating of nutmeg, one tablespoon of lemon juice, three tablespoons of oyster juice, yolks of two uncooked eggs. Fish a la Creme. Take any nice, firm fish from which the bones have been removed. Salt and pepper, squeeze over a little lemon juice, sprinkle with sweet herbs, let stand half an hour. Remove the stones from twelve olives; take one cup of stale bread crumbs and pour over them one tablespoon of melted butter; add the olives, season and stuff the fish, and sew. Roll up in a piece of cheese PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY 31 cloth and boil until nearly done. A fresh codfish weighing five pounds will cook in fifteen minutes. Place in a porcelain fish pan. Stir into a pint of stale bread crumbs two tablespoons of parsley and a few drops of onion juice. Cover the fish two inches deep with these crumbs, and strew thickly with bits of butter. Fill the pan two-thirds full of cream and bake in a hot oven until a golden In-own. Serve on the same dish, with a napkin rolled around it. Onion juice may be obtained by placing an onion in a lemon squeezer kept exclusively for this purpose. Shell Fish. Such shell fish as mussels, clams, oysters, etc., may be thoroughly scrubbed with a brush and put in the pot without water, with a clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley, and steamed until the shells open. Send to table in shells; eat with hot maitre d'hotel butter, or hot olive oil, seasoned, and lemon juice added. Pompano en Papillote. This delicious fish found only in Cali- fornia waters, is so rieli and tender, it needs no addition but season- ing. Cut white paper a little longer and wider than the fish. ilrease with butter, put in the fish, fold and turn over the ends. 15 roil or saute. Season, sprinkle over a few drops of vinegar, and bake ten minutes in oblong paper boxes. Fish a la Russe. Fish weighing about four pounds, four eggs, two tablespoons of cheese, little nutmeg, one tablespoon of chopped parsley and seasoning, one pint of milk, two tablespoons of Parme- san cheese, one tablespoon of butter, two large tablespoons of flour, one tablespoon of anchovy sauce, one lemon. AVash fish, season, sprinkle with powdered sweet herbs, and juice of one-half lemon, let stand one-half hour. Fold in a piece of cheese cloth, place in boil- ing salted water, let boil from ten to fifteen minutes, then take it out carefully and let it get nearly cold. Have ready two hard boiled eggs chopped fine and the parsley. Put milk in double boiler, when hot add 1 uitter and flour for white sauce, which should be quite 32 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY stiff; then add the yolks of the two remaining eggs, and the anchovy sauce and grated nutmeg. Put fish into the dish in which it is to be served, pour over it the sauce, sprinkle over the top the chopped eggs and the grated cheese, put in moderate oven and bake ten min- utes. Garnish with slices of lemon. Baked Fish. Clean, wipe and dry, rub with salt, fill with stuff- ing, sew edges together. Put narrow strips of fat salt pork over the fish and in pan under fish. Place fish upright in pan, curl by put- ting a skewer through tail, body and head, shaped like an S, tie with a string. Serve with celery or any sauce preferred. Dry Stuffing for Fish. One and one-half cups of stale bread crumbs, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, one teaspoon each of chopped parsley, onion, cucumber pickles, olives and capers, and one tablespoon of butter. Melt the butter in a hot saucepan, fry the onions a golden brown; mix the other ingredients with the bread crumbs. Stir all together and stuff the fish. Fish Chowder. Have two pounds of any white fish cut in thin slices. Slice six potatoes and four onions. Put in a kettle six slices of salt pork, fry brown. Put in a layer of potatoes, layer of fish, layer of onions, season, and so on till all is used. Cover with boiling water; cook till potatoes are done. Add a cup of cream. Have four pilot crackers, soaked in cold water, on a hot platter; pour over the chowder, or put them round the edges of the pot while the chowder is cooking. Clam Chowder. Is made as above, using the small clams, or chopping the large ones. Salmon Pudding. Mix one can of salmon, pouring off the liquor. Add juice of half a lemon, three tablespoons of melted but- ter, salt, pepper, a speck of cayenne, one-half cup of stale bread crumbs, three beaten eggs, half cup of cream. Put in a buttered PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 33 mould, set in pan of hot water, cover; steam in oven one hour, filling with boiling water as it evaporates. Turn out; serve with any sauce preferred. Salt Fish Balls. One pint of chopped salt fish, one pint of cold chopped potatoes, one-half cup of milk, two tablespoons of butter, one-half teaspoon of white pepper, two eggs. Pick the bones from the fish, cover with boiling water, simmer one hour. If the fish is very salt pour off the first water and cover again with boiling water. (Eastern salt fish will cook much quicker than California salt fish.) Have fish and potatoes chopped fine, add the pepper and one beaten egg; heat the milk, melt the butter in it, add to the fish and pota- toes; if not soft enough add more milk. Make into small flat cakes an inch thick, beat the other egg, slightly dip the fish balls into the egg, and fry in deep fat, take out, drain on butcher's paper, send to table on hot napkin. Or fry in hot drippings or butter in a frying pan, turn and brown on both sides. Hash Salt Fish. Is prepared as above, omitting the egg. Fry two slices of salt pork in a frying pan, put in the hashed fish and potato, heat well, make into an oblong shape, brown and turn on a hot platter. Broiled Salt Fish. Pull off strips of salt fish, soak in water over night, dry in a cloth, broil. Cover with melted butter. EGGS Eggs a la Patti. Take stale bread, about half an inch thick, cut in large rounds with biscuit cutter, then cut out the center with a smaller cutter. Butter a baking-pan, lay in the rings, cover with milk or cream, let it soak until soft, pour off the milk and put a raw egg into the middle of each ring. Season ; put a teaspoon of butter on each egg. Bake in a hot oven until the whites are set. Serve on hot plates; garnish with watercress. Eggs a la Duchesse. Six eggs, four tablespoons of cheese, three tablespoons of butter, slices of thin toast. Spread butter on the dish in which they will be served, then lay in the cheese, cut thin. Sea- son, and add a little cayenne, then break the eggs in carefully, so as not to break; grate over them a little nutmeg, then two tablespoons of cheese. Bake ten minutes. Soft Boiled Eggs. Put the eggs into a saucepan ; cover with boiling water, and let them stand from six to ten minutes where the water will keep hot (180), but not boiling. If cooked in boiling water, cook from three to five minutes. Hard Boiled Eggs. Cook them forty minutes in water just bub- ling. The yolk of an egg cooked ten minutes in rapidly boiling water is tough and indigestible; cooked forty minutes it is dry, mealy and easily digested. Omelette. Two eggs, two tablespoons of milk, one saltspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper. Beat yolks of eggs until light colored 34 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 35 and thick; add milk, salt and pepper. Beat the whites until stiff and dry. Cut and fold them lightly into the yolks. When the spider is hot rub it around the edge with one teaspoon of butter on a broad knife; let the butter run all over the pan and turn in the omelette quickly, and spread it evenly in the pan. Cook carefully till slightly browned underneath. Turn over. Serve quickly. French Omelette. Beat four eggs till well broken, but not light, add two tablespoons of milk, one-half teaspoon of salt. Have your pan heated, put in one tablespoon of butter. Pour in egg mixture. Shake the pan until the whole mass is as thick as soft custard. Let it rest for five seconds; roll up. Before rolling up, if you wish add a few cooked oysters, or chopped cooked ham, parsley or cheese. Egg Nests on Toast. Six eggs, six small pieces of toast, one and one-half tablespoons of butter, one half teaspoon of salt. Sep- arate the eggs-, putting the whites in a bowl, and leaving the yolks in the half shells. Set the shells in a pan of meal to keep upright. Add salt to the whites and beat until stiff. Toast bread, dip edges into hot water, butter, and pile the white on each slice. Make a depression in the center of each mound, put one-quarter teaspoon of butter in each, drop yolks in the hollows. Place in hot oven until firm and slightly brown. Stuffed Eggs. Cut off the ends of hard-boiled eggs so that they will stand; then halve them and remove the yolks carefully; mash with a fork, add salt and pepper to taste, and a few drops of olive oil to moisten, and a little chopped parsley. To the yolks of three eggs use one teaspoon of vinegar. Fill the whites of the eggs with this paste. Set in a dish and pour around them cream sauce. For picnic put the eggs together and wrap in soft paper. MEATS How to Wash Meat. Have a piece of cheese-cloth, wash the meat with it, dipping in cold water. A Bad Habit. Some people have a habit of punching their fingers into a piece of beef to see if it is tender, which is useless and very annoying to the butcher, as it spoils the appearance of the piece. Veal and pork should be eaten soon after being killed, but beef or mutton is much improved by keeping it in a cool, dry place until it " ripens." The length of time required depends on the season and the weather; in summer from a week to ten days, in a nice chest, and in winter as long, perhaps, as fourteen days. Good beef should have a dark red color when first cut, changing to a brighter red or cherry color, after a few moments exposure to the air. This is probably due to the juices coming to the surface. A bluish, or dull dark red color indicates poor beef. It should look juicy, be smooth-grained and velvety to the touch, and somewhat firm and elastic. The bones and sinews should be comparatively small. The pale, moist muscle marks the young animal; a some- what darker color, older ones. Liquids take the form of vapor at the steam or boiling point. It is incorrect to say that meat is boiling, or rice is boiling, as solids cannot boil. Boiling, therefore, is cooking in boiling liquid. Water boils when the bubbles rise to the surface, and steam is thrown off at 212. If the fire is fierce, so that these bubbles are formed and expelled rapidly, and the water boils over, the water is no hotter; it 36 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 37 simply boils away, and has to be ofterier replenished. It is a waste of time, fuel and materials to keep water boiling at such a galloping rate. Water boils at a higher temperature when there is salt added. Fresh water boils at 212, salt water at 224. If we put salt in the water, in the lower part of a double boiler, a greater degree of heat is obtained by which to cook the articles on top. In cooking meat, fish or vegetables in water we must remember these two facts: Cold water draws out the albuminous juices; boiling water protects them. Meats are cooked in cold water to have all the nutriment in the water, such as beef tea, soups, etc., and meats are cooked in hot water to have part of the juices in the meat and part in the water, such as stews, fricasses, etc. Meats are cooked in boiling water to retain their juices. Braizing, Braizing is a form of stewing, done usually in a braiz- ing pan with coals, or any close covered granite pan will do. May be cooked in the oven or on top of stove. Roasting Meats. Meat must be wiped off with a wet cloth, then salted, peppered and dredged with flour; put into a meat pan, then in a hot oven; this will sear the outside and protect the juices. After ten minutes baste frequently; when necessary to turn, do not put a fork into the meat, as that allows the juices to escape. A little hot water may be put into the pan after half an hour to baste with. Time for roasting see rules. Gravy for Roast Meat. Remove meat, when cooked, to a hot platter; set in the oven. Pour from the pan nearly all the grease, add a little hot water, set on the stove, blend browned flour and water, stir into the gravy, and season to taste. Strain. Veal. The breast, loin and fillet (a thick piece from upper part of the leg) are the best pieces for roasting. Dredge with salt, pep- 38 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY per, and flour, put strips of fat pork over the top. and bake accor- ding to directions. Cover with paper to keep from burning. Serve with horse-radish or tomato sauce. Cold Veal. Cut cold veal into slices, arrange tastefully on a dish and make a jelly as follows: Take bones that have been removed from fillet, with any scraps of veal that may be left from roast, etc., add a bouquet, a few pepper corns, a blade of mace, a few cloves; cover with water; cook till meat is in shreds, about seven hours; strain, cool. When cold this should be a firm jelly. Garnish the cold meat with the jelly cut in fancy shapes, with French cutter and slices of lemon. How to Dress Poultry. Cut off the legs at the first joint, cut out the oil bag at the end of the tail, cut off the head, put back the skin and take out the windpipe and crop, being careful not to break it. Make an incision below the breast-bone, insert the hand and remove all the inside of the fowl. The lungs lie between the ribs. Wash the fowl inside carefully with a cloth. With a sharp knife take out all the pin-feathers and singe over burning brown paper. Cut the gizzard through the thick part and remove the inner lining without breaking. Put the liver, gizzard and heart to one side. Always wash with a cloth. If too much water is used in washing poultry it will draw out the juices, and cause it to be tough and indigestible. These directions apply to all fowl. Roast Fowl. Prepare fowl according to directions. Stuff the crop till of a good shape, put the remainder into body of fowl and sew. Have the neck cut off, but not skin, then tie the loose skin with cord, put a skewer through the fleshy part of the legs, another through the wings, bring the cord towards the back, then over the skewers, cross string, bring back to the neck, then tie it tightly. This is trussing. (If you have not skewers, use strings.) Salt, pepper and dredge the fowl with flour; melt two tablespoons of butter and pour over, putting bits of butter under each thigh ; baste PROGRKSSIVK COOKERY 39 often ; after a half hour add a little hot water to the pan. Cook in moderate oven at first and increase the heat. Gravy. Take giblets, heart and liver, put in boiling salted water, rook until tender. Remove and chop fine, add two tablespoons flour to the chopped giblets; remove fowl to hot platter set in the oven to keep hot, strain the gravy into a saucepan, add the chopped gib- lets and flour, reduce with hot water, cook five minutes. Stuffing. One pint of stale bread crumbs, moisten with one-half cup of melted butter, season highly with salt, pepper and sweet herbs; if you like, use less butter and a little sausage meat. Chestnut Stuffing. One good shalot, chopped fine, one pint or more of stale bread crumbs, one teaspoon of thyme, one teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-quarter of a pound of sausage meat, one tea- spoon of pepper, twenty-four cooked chestnuts, small, two teaspoons of chopped mushrooms. Take twelve of the chestnuts and pound well. Heat a tablespoon of butter, add shalot, sausage meat, mush- rooms, then the pounded chestnuts, season ; let it just come to a boil, add the bread, now the twelve whole chestnuts, being careful not to break. Game. Draw the wild fowl, wash quickly in cold water. Put two tablespoons of chopped onion and one cup of chopped celery (the green stalks will do), into the body of the fowl. Truss and dredge with salt, pepper and flour, roast in a hot oven, with a little water in the bottom of the pan. Baste often; cook to taste. Serve with bread sauce, currant jelly and boiled onions. Saddle of Venison, Larded. Procure a saddle of a small veni- son, weighing about five pounds, pare it neatly, remove the sinews from the surface and lard it with a larding needle as finely as pos- sible, tie it around three times. Put in a roasting pan one sliced 40 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY onion, one sliced carrot; lay in the saddle, season with salt, spread one-half ounce of butter over it, put into a brisk oven and roast forty minutes, basting frequently with its own gravy. Untie, arrange neatly on a hot dish ; pour into the pan a glass of Madeira wine and a gill of white broth ; let come to a boil on stove, skim the fat off the gravy, strain over the saddle. Serve with hot currant jelly- Venison. Select young venison. If fresh let it hang in a dry, airy place several days before using. Wipe with a wet cloth, trim neat- ly, rub juice of lemon well into it, sprinkle with salt, lay in drip- ping pan, make a paste of flour and water, spread thickly over venison, put down to roast twenty minutes to the pound, put a little water in pan % moisten paste occasionally to keep from cracking. About one-half hour before serving remove the paste and baste every few minutes with butter and hot water until it froths all over. Then remove to a hot platter. The oven at first should be of mod- erate heat, increasing the heat the last half hour. Make gravy by pouring one and one-half cups of stock into the pan, thicken with browned flour, season, add two tablespoons of currant jelly. A bouquet laid in pan while roasting is an improvement. Broiled Venison Steaks. Rub into steaks, cut from the leg, a seasoning of salt, pepper, little grated nutmeg, one tablespoon of oil ; wrap in buttered paper and broil over a quick fire. They may also be larded with salt pork, then broiled with or without being envel- oped in paper. When dished serve with a maitre-d'hotel butter. Maitre-d' hotel Butter. One-quarter cup of butter, one-half tea- spoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, one tablespoon of lemon juice. Rub the butter to a cream, add salt, pepper, parsley and lemon juice. Spread on hot steaks, etc. Broiling: Broil over clear coals. Heat your broiler, put on meat PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 41 or fowl, turn quickly to prevent escape of juices. Meat should be broiled long enough to start the flow of the juices ; the meat will spring up instantly when pressed with a knife; when it ceases to do so the juices begin to evaporate and the meat shrinks. \Vhen cooked according to taste, remove to hot platter, sprinkle on both sides with pepper, salt and bits of butter. Sauteing or Pan-frying. Have pan sissing hot, grease with a little suet. Put on your meat, turn in one minute, sear the other side. Cook rare or well done as preferred ; salt, pepper and butter when taken up. Serve very hot. Beef Tea. Cut lean, juicy, raw beef into quarter-inch dice. Cover with cold water; add one-half teaspoon of salt to every cup of water. Press the meat often, and after an hour squeeze out all the juice. Heat the juice; stir it constantly, and serve as soon as it looks thick and is hot. Broiling in Paper. Take trimmed mutton chops and lay on doubled firm white paper, and cut the shape of the chops, allowing one inch for a margin. Open the paper, oil or grease them, place a chop inside each paper, salt and pepper them, fold over the edge. Broil, turning quickly and often, four or five minutes. Serve in the papers. Mutton Chops or Veal Cutlets Breaded. Trim, and season with salt and pepper. Dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again. Put butter in a hot frying-pan; put in the chops, turn quickly, and brown on both sides, then cook as preferred. Wind paper ruffles around the bones. Serve with tomato sauce. Fillet of Mutton Chops. Cut the meat from the bone, flatten the chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper; melt a tablespoon of butter, add to it a few drops of lemon juice, dip in the chops, roll up and 42 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY skewer with tooth-picks; dip in bread crumbs, egg and bread crumbs again. Fry in boiling lard about four minutes. Serve with any sauce preferred. Boiled Leg of Mutton. Put into boiling salted water, enough to'nearly cover, with thickest part down; keep at boiling point ten minutes, then simmer. A small leg of mutton will cook rare in from one and a half to two hours; well done in three hours. Serve with caper sauce. Boiled Chicken. Stuff with oysters. Cook the same as boiled mutton. Boiled Leg of Mutton a la Francaise. Have the marrow removed from the bone of a leg of mutton. Put into the cavity a few cloves and garlic. Let stand for a week or so. Remove the garlic and boil as before directed. Boiled Ham. If very salt, soak overnight ; otherwise, soak two hours in cold water. Scrub well, trim off the black part, cover with boiling water. Simmer, allowing one-half hour for every pound. If ham is allowed to boil it hardens it. When cooked leave in the water till nearly cold; then remove, pull off the skin, put into the oven for one hour, baste often with vinegar. Remove from oven. Cover with sugar and dried bread crumbs, return to the oven, and when a golden brown, dish. Or stick cloves into the ham in fancy shapes, then wet your finger, and deep into red pepper and make a round spot, and alternate with black pepper. If sent to the table hot, serve with brown sauce, flavored with one-half glass of cham- pagne, or currant jelly, or juice of one-half lemon. A very nice way is to cook a ham a little longer, and remove the bone carefully. For those who care for it, add a bottle of white wine or champagne while simmering. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 43 Corned Beef. Cover with boiling water, simmer, allowing one- half hour to the pound; as scum rises, remove. If to be eaten cold add a few whole spices to the water while cooking. If a rib piece when the bones loosen, remove from the pot, take out the bones, cover and press with a weight. Boiled Chicken. Clean, stuff a chicken. Put in boiling water a teaspoon of salt, one-half a carrot, one onion, two stalks of celery, six pepper corns, a bay leaf, sprig of thyme and parsley, salt; add the chicken, simmer one hour or till tender. Serve with any sauce preferred. Hash a la Francaise. Have cooked beef chopped rather fine. Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, in hot stew pan (this is for one pint of chopped meat); add two chopped onions; when cooked add one tablespoon of flour, one-half glass of white wine, a cup of broth, a little table sauce, tomato or Worcestershire, salt and pepper, a grating of nutmeg; add the chopped meat, leave in fifteen min- utes to heat, but do not boil. Dish it, pour on a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar and serve. Garnish with points of toast. Veal cut in slices cooked by foregoing recipe is very nice. Hash. One cup of cooked meat chopped fine, two cups of hot mashed potatoes, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper. Mix until smooth. Put two or three tablespoons of hot water into a spider. Melt one tablespoon of butter or drippings. Put in the hash and let it simmer slowly until the water is absorbed ami a brown crust is formed. Do not stir. Fold over, turn on a hot platter. Hashed Corned Beef. To one pint of chopped meat add one pint of cold chopped potatoes, a saltspoon of mustard, one tea- spoon of white pepper. Have in frying pan a tablespoon of hot drippings, put in the hash, add two tablespoons of hot water, a table- 44 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY spoon of butter. More water may be added if needed, but not too much. Stir and heat well, form an oblong shape, brown on one side, run a knife under it to keep it from sticking to frying pan. Turn on a hot platter. If hashes are put in covered dishes it steams them and makes them soggy. If you have any vegetables left from a corned beef dinner chop them together, warm the same way as the corned beef hash, omitting the water, as the vegetables are generally moist enough. Drippings. Save any pieces of fat (except mutton fat) , cut into one-half inch cubes, put in a pan, in the oven, and cook slowly, until the scraps are a light brown. When slightly cooled strain and set it away. Always clarify and strain fat after being used for frying. Minced Meat on Toast. Remove the fat and gristle from the veal and chop fine. To one cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, a speck of pepper, one-half cup of thickened gravy. Heat in saucepan and pour over buttered toast. Serve hot. Cottage Pie. Chop cold meat very fine. Mash some potatoes. To every cup of meat add one saltspoon of salt, one-half saltspoon of pepper, a speck of nutmeg, one-half cup of gravy or stock, and a little finely chopped onion. Put the meat, when seasoned, in a baking dish, cover it with mashed potatoes, and bake a golden brown. Scalloped Mutton. Cut cold mutton into thin slices, removing all the fat and gristle. Put a layer of bread crumbs on the bot- tom of a shallow baking dish, then a layer of mutton, then a layer of cooked macaroni, then gravy. Moisten one-third of a cup of crumbs in one tablespoon of melted butter, spread over the top, bake until a nice brown. Season each layer with salt and pepper. Brown Beef Stew. Order skirt of beef a few days before needed ; the skirt is tender and juicy; remove skin, and cut in slices. Heat PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 45 one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add one chopped onion, one slice of carrot, one of turnip, few cloves and bouquet; add sliced meat and fry brown. Then add hot water, cook until tender, be careful not to cook too long, so as to retain the juices, season with salt and pepper, remove meat, strain gravy, return to fire and boil up. Brown one tablespoon of butter or drippings, add two table- spoons of browned flour, one tablespoon of sherry wine, one table- spoon of tomato catsup, a few drops of lemon juice. Put back meat, heat thoroughly; serve with macaroni, or dumplings, heaped around the edge of deep platter. Hamburg Steak. Two pounds of chopped beef or Hamburg steak, one-half cup of bread crumbs, one cup of milk, two eggs, two teaspoons of salt, one teaspoon of pepper, three slices of salt pork. Season the meat, then add the milk, beaten eggs, nearly all the bread crumbs, put into a buttered dish, shape and sprinkle with the crumbs, and lay on the slices of pork. Cover the dish and bake ten minutes; then remove the cover and bake fifteen minutes longer. Fried Liver. Have calf's liver sliced thin. Trim the tough skin from the edges. Soak in cold water five minutes, and wipe. Fry out salt pork, put in the slices of liver, salt and pepper and sprinkle with powdered sage. Cook three minutes and turn. Season as before. Turn often, cook from seven to ten minutes. Put into a hot dish and spread with butter. Broiled Liver. Prepare the liver as above, and broil. Liver au Lit. Clean the livers from two or three fowls and cut into several pieces; or you may use calf's liver cut into small slices. Put a layer of tomatoes in a dish, then the liver, then sliced onion, and tomatoes on the top. Season each layer with salt and pepper. Cover and bake slowly for about half an hour. Dumplings for Stews. Make dumplings for stews the same as baking powder biscuit, only a little softer. Drop from a wet table- spoon into the stew; boil twenty minutes. SAUCES Bechamel, or White Sauce. One cup of cream, one cup of white stock or one pint of cream, two tablespoons of butter, two heaping tablespoons of flour, season to taste. Heat cream over hot water. Put butter in hot granite saucepan, stir till it melts or bubbles, add dry flour, stir quickly with the ball of a spoon until well mixed, pour over a part of the cream, stir till it thickens, add the remaining stock or cream, put back into double boiler and cook five minutes. Should be smooth, if not, strain. This way of cooking butter gives a much better flavor than blending the flour and but- ter. If you cannot get cream use milk and an extra tablespoon of butter. If too thick add more stock or cream, if too thin, more flour. Drawn Butter (Plain.) Is made the same as cream sauce, using hot water instead of cream, and four tablespoons of butter. Richer drawn butter may be made by adding the yolks of two eggs. Hollandaise Sauce. May be made of milk, or cream, or stock, one-half cup of butter, yolks of three eggs, juice of one-half lemon, salt, a speck of cayenne, one cup of boiling stock, cream or milk. Rub butter to a cream, add yolks, then lemon juice and seasoning. Beat well about five minutes, add boiling liquid, beat rapidly and serve. Should be as thick as custard. Hollandaise Sauce. Melt over hot water a half cup of butter, add the beaten yolks of five eggs, beat well till thick. Season 46 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 47 with salt and cayenne and stir in gradually two tablespoons of lemon juice and one-half cup of boiling water. If the butter more than melts it will curdle. Egg Sauce. Make cream or milk or drawn butter sauce, and add three hard boiled eggs chopped. Cream Mushroom Sauce. Make a cream sauce. Take one tablespoon of the butter, add one cup of chopped mushrooms, cook ten minutes or till soft. Add to the cream or milk sauce. Oyster Sauce. Heat one pint of fresh oysters to the boiling point in their own liquor. Remove from fire, drain liquor into another pan. Beat to a cream one-third cup of butter, three table- spoons of flour, add to oyster juice one cup of milk, heat to boiling, stir in flour and butter. Cook fifteen minutes, season and add oysters, then one teaspoon of lemon juice. For boiled fish, turkey or chicken. Celery Sauce (for Boiled Fowl.) Cook one cup of white part of celery, cut fine, in enough water to cover; cook until tender, drain off water; if not one pint add water enough to make that quantity. Melt two tablespoons of butter, add two of flour, and stir in the hot liquor, cook, and add the cooked celery. Season. Sauce Robert. To one cup of brown sauce add one teaspoon of sugar, one of mustard, one of vinegar. Tomato Sauce. Melt one tablespoon of t butter, fry in it one tablespoon of chopped onion till yellow, add one tablespoon of flour, pour gradually over one cup of hot stock, add one-half cup of cooked strained tomato. Season. Brown Mushroom Sauce. To one cup of brown sauce add one cup of chopped mushrooms, first cooked in one tablespoon of butter. 48 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Currant Jelly Sauce. Make brown sauce, add two-thirds of a cup of currant jelly. When melted, strain. Serve very hot. Madeira or Port Wine Sauce. One-half cup of port, one glass of melted currant jelly, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one pint of stock, two tablespoons of butter or drippings. Cook same as for brown sauce. Spanish Sauce. One pint of consomme, three tablespoons of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, carrot and celery, lean ham, bay leaf, sprig of parsley, three cloves, bit of mace, salt and pepper. Soak gelatine in one-half cup of consomme until soft, cook butter and vegetables, pour together, don't burn, add flour, brown, stirring all the while, add the consomme, spices and herbs, stand back and simmer half an hour; add the soaked gelatine, cook again; strain. (If fat arises, skim off.) Serve with chops. Bread Sauce for Game. One cup of stale bread crumbs. Put in double boiler, with a large slice of onion, one teaspoon of salt, one- half of pepper, one pint of stock. Cook half an hour, take out onion, add one tablespoon of butter. Cook half an hour and serve. Have ready some coarse bread crumbs fried brown in hot butter. Spread on hot platter, lay on the game and sprinkle with more fried, crumbs. Piquante Sauce. Is made the same as a brown or white sauce, adding a teaspoon each of chopped olives, pickles and capers. A larger quantity may be used if desired. Anchovy and Shrimp Sauce. Make a cream or white sauce, color pink with anchovy sauce, and add one cup of shrimps. Let the shrimps stand in the hot sauce about five minutes to heat through. PROGRESSIVE COOKKRY 49 Brown Sauce. One pint of dark stock, two tablespoons of butter two heaping tablespoons of browned flour. Put the stock in a double boiler, season with salt and pepper. Put the butter into a rol taste, and half a cup of cream. Beat together the yolks of four ggs and half a cup of cold cream. Stir this mixture into the sauce, heat to the boiling point, cook two minutes longer, stirring all the time. Do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Spanish Sauce. One pint and one gill of consomme, three table- spoons of gelatine, four of flour, four of butter, two of chopped onion, one of chopped carrot, one of chopped celery, one ounce of lean ham, one bay leaf, one sprig of parsley, two cloves, a bit of mace, salt and pepper. Soak the gelatine in one gill of consomme for an hour or more. Cook the butter and vegetables together for ten minutes, being careful not to let them burn, add the flour, and cook until brown, stirring all the while. Draw the saucepan back, and gradu- ally add the pint of consomme. Boil for three minutes, stirring all the while. Then add the herbs and spice, and let it stand where it will simmer for two minutes. Add the soaked gelatine, and cook five minutes longer. Skim the fat from the sauce, and strain. Bernaise Sauce. Put into a hot cup four tablespoons of butter, 50 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY and stir until soft and creamy. Put the yolks of four eggs, one-half teaspoon of salt and one-fifth teaspoon of pepper into a small granite saucepan, and beat with a Dover beater until the eggs are light, then add the butter in three parts, beating each time until the mixture is smooth. Add one tablespoon of tarragon vinegar and beat again. Place the saucepan in another of boiling water, and cook for three minutes, beating constantly with an egg beater. Take from the fire, and add one teaspoon of chopped parsley and tarragon and one teaspoon of onion juice. The sauce must be used as soon a finished. This sauce should be garnished with potato croquettes. SAUCES WITH OILS Sauce Tartare. Put into a mortar one tablespoon of butter and one teaspoon of chopped parsley. Pound to a smooth paste, and rub through a small strainer. Then pound two tablespoons of capers and two tablespoons of chopped cucumber pickles to a paste, and rub through a strainer on to the parsley and butter. Keep this mixture cool. Put in a bowl the yolks of two eggs uncooked, one teaspoon of mustard, one-half teaspoon of sugar, one teaspoon of salt, a little cayenne. Beat until thick and ropy (from 3 to 5 minutes), add oil, a few drops at a time, until so thick that the beater turns with difficulty, then add a tablespoon at a time until a gill and a half has been used. When the mixture is thick begin to add vinegar (alternating with oil), a teaspoon at a time, until two tablespoons have been used, then add one teaspoon of onion juice and the strained mixture. This sauce must be thick and smooth. To insure this add oil very slowly at first. French Dressing. One tablespoon of vinegar, three tablespoons of oil, one saltspoon of pepper, one of salt. Mix well, take a small slice of bread, rub slightly with garlic, set in salad with which this dressing is to be served for an hour. Remove the bread, pour on the dressing. Garnish with beets or olives. Remoullde Sauce. One pint of oil, one tablespoon each of plain and tarragon vinegar. Work the yolks of two hard boiled eggs until smooth, then the yolk of one raw egg, one teaspoon of mustard, and beat with the Dover beater five minutes. Add the oil 51 52 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY one teaspoon at a time, beating three minutes between each spoon- ful. After adding five teaspoons in this manner, put in two or three at a time, and the vinegar as it thickens. When done add one-half teaspoon of salt, one-third teaspoon of white pepper, and one tea- spoon of chopped parsley. It should be very thick. Green Salad Dressing". Pound in a mortar a handful of thoroughly washed and wiped parsley, one bunch of chervil, one of chives, one small onion, one anchovy, a tablespoon of capers or olives. Take quarter of a cup of bread that has been thoroughly soaked squeezed dry pound to a paste and rub through a fine sieve. The bread must not be moist. Beat in well the yoke of one egg, then add slowly one-half cup of olive oil. If not green, color with extract of spinach. This is very nice with fish. Sauce et Garniture. Beat the yolk of one egg into a bowl, add one-half teaspoonful of mustard, mix well with a fork. Add slowly one cup of olive oil, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This mixture should be thick; then add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Chop fine one tablespoonful of cucumber pickles, one tablespoonful of capers, one tablespoonful of chives, one tablespoonful of tarragon and add to the sauce. Mayonnaise Dressing". One-half teaspoon of dry mustard, yolk of one egg, one pint of olive oil. Beat egg and mustard smooth, pour in a steady stream a tablespoon of oil at a time, beating con- stantly; beat three minutes between each spoonful, till one-half of oil is used. This should be very thick ; now add teaspoon of vinegar, one teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a few drops of onion juice, if liked; add gradually remainder of oil, then vinegar to taste; more salt may be needed. Time for making fifteen minutes. During hot weather in making oil dressings place dish in ice water. It is a very easy matter to keep a salad dressing on hand and it makes very many " cold bites " delicious, if retained in an agate vessel. !'IM,KKSSIYK COOKERY 53 Boiled Dressing: Put one pint of vinegar and two teaspoons of salt on the stove to heat. Mix together one tablespoon of butter, two of dry mustard, and two of white sugar; add six tablespoons of cream and six eggs. When this is all well beaten, pour on the hot vinegar slowly and carefully, beating all the time. Then put it all on the stove and let it boil until it thickens like boiled custard. Thin it afterwards with more cream if you wish. Pour it into a bowl to cool and do not leave a spoon in it. Keep in a glass jar. 54 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY ENTREES Cheese Fondu. One cup stale bread crumbs, one egg, one cup of milk, butter size of an egg, one cup of grated cheese. Season the bread crumbs with one-quarter teaspoon of salt, same of pepper, one speck of cayenne, one saltspoon of mustard, then add melted but- ter, cheese, beaten egg and milk. Bake twenty minutes in small pudding dish -or in small dishes ten minutes. Serve immediately. Rice Croquettes. One cup of cold boiled rice, warmed in double boiler, with one teaspoon of milk or cream, one tablespoon of butter, one egg, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-quarter teaspoon of white pepper, a little cayenne, one tablespoon of grated cheese. Cool, shape, roll in bread crumbs, dip in egg, roll again in bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat till brown. Chicken Croquettes. Chop cooked chicken rather fine, use one- half pint of canned or fresh mushrooms, one-third cup of cream, three tablespoons of butter, two of flour, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one teaspoon of onion juice, yolks of two eggs. Put the cream into a stewpan and let it heat slowly. Beat the flour and butter together, add the cream when it boils. Stir until smooth, then add the chopped chicken, to which has been added the onion, lemon juice and season, mushrooms (first cooking mushrooms half an hour in a tablespoon of the butter), stir well; now add the two well- beaten yolks, cook two minutes. Pour this on a platter, let it cool, shape into croquettes, roll in dry bread crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs. Fry in a basket in deep fat three minutes. Take up, drain on butcher paper. PROGRESSIVE COOKKKY )) Lobster Cutlets. One pint of lobster meat, or crawfish, chopped rather fine, one-half pint of cream or chicken broth, a tablespoon of Hour, three tablespoons of butter, one tablespoon of lemon juice, one quarter teaspoon of white pepper, a speck of cayenne, one level teaspoon of salt, four eggs. Mix salt and pepper with chopped fish. Put tlif cream or stock on to heat. Mix the flour and butter and stir into the hot cream, cook one minute, stirring all the time. Add the fish; stir well and cook for three minutes. Then add two eggs, \\ell beaten, stir quickly and take from the fire instantly; stir in the lemon juice, and spread the mixture on a platter to cool. When cold form in cutlet shape, then cover with l>eaten egg and crumbs. Stick one of the small claws into the small end of each cutlet. Fry two minutes, and drain, Serve with tartare sauce. Cutlets a In Maintenon. For six mutton cutlets use four table- spoons of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped onion, one generous tablespoon of butter, one of flour, three of stock, one teaspoon of minced parsley, one of salt, one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, three gills of Spanish sauce. Cook the butter and onion together for five min- utes: then add the mushrooms and seasoning and cook five minutes lontfrr. Add the flour and stir well; then add the stock and cook three minutes longer. Let the mixture cool. Have the cutlets cut from the ribs, one inch and a half thick. Trim as for French chops, with a sharp knife. Split the chops in two without separating them at the bone. Spread the cooked mixture inside, and press lightly together. Broil for eight minutes over clear coals. Serve very hot with Spanish sauce. Sweetbreads. When a plump, healthy calf is slaughtered which has l>een fed on the milk of the mother cow, there are found in the lower throat and near the heart two small lumps of flesh, weighing perhaps half a pound, termed " sweetbreads/' These, when properly rooked, are about the most delectable and nutritious morsels known to mankind in the line of animal food. They are the pancreatic 56 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY glands, and their function in the animal economy is to assimilate the oily portions of the food. In the milk calf, therefore, the sweet- hread may be almost said to be composed of assimilated cream. In the older animal, or when the calf is turned out to grass, these glands either shrink away or become tough, so that they are no longer the same dainty article. Care must be taken in preparing. Larded Sweetbreads. Blanch the sweetbreads in cold water. remove the veins and skin. Then put in cold water again with one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and let them remain half an hour. Remove from the water, dry on a cloth, sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Lard them with very narrow strips of salt pork with a larding needle; or lay narrow strips of salt pork or bacon over, the top. Bake fifteen minutes. Serve very hot with brown sauce. Beefsteak and Sweetbreads. Prepare and cut sweetbreads in slices and broil and serve with broiled beefsteak. Sweetbreads a la Marengo. Put sweetbreads into cold water, remove brains, then squeeze over them a little lemon juice. Put them in boiling water; cook twenty minutes. Take them out and throw them into cold water to harden. Cut in small pieces. Put into the double boiler one cup of cream, salt, pepper and grating of nutmeg. Have a few tomatoes cooking. Take one tablespoon of butter, melt as before directed. Add a tablespoon of flour, then a little cream, and strain some of the tomatoes into this mixture, so as to make a light pink. Add the sweetbreads. Ornament with shredded olives. Brown Gravy and Sweetbreads. Prepare sweetbreads the same as for Sweetbreads a la Creme. If you have dark stock use that, but if not, prepare as follows: Two pounds of lean beef cut in small pieces and put into a crock in a slow oven, with a little salt and one tablespoon of cold water ; cook one hour, take out, add one-half cup PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 57 of boiling water, strain into double boiler. Roux: Take one table- spoon of butter in cold pan, let it get brown but not burnt, add two tablespoons of browned flour, a few drops of onion and lemon juice, a little tomato catsup and Worcestershire sauce; season. Pour some of the gravy over this, then put all into the gravy and cook five minutes. Serve hot, with toasted bread. Have the sweetbreads browned and add to the gravy. Add a half cup of sherry or brandy if liked. Brains. Brains can be cooked by any recipe for sweetbreads. They require but ten minutes to boil. Lobster a la Ne\vburg. Divide one medium size lobster or craw- fish in half, remove the coral and creamy green fat and put one side. Cut the meat into small pieces, put into a saucepan four tablespoons of butter; when it creams add a half cup of Madeira or sherry, reduce to one-half. Put a cup of cream in a double boiler; when hot season with salt and cayenne pepper. Pour this gradually over the butter mixture and return to double boiler. Pound to a paste the coral and fat and stir into the sauce, add the yolks of three well-beaten egrs, add the lobster; heat through and serve. Pigeon or Quail au Deliee. Take a quarter of a pound of bacon, cut up in small pieces; one-half pound of veal liver cut in small pieces. Fry the bacon, add the liver, add a clove of garlic, a chalot, a bay leaf, half a chopped carrot, some of turnip, salt and pepper; stew till cooked. Pound all together with a few mushrooms. Pass through a wire sieve. Stuff two birds with this forcemeat. Put pieces of butter or lard on the breast and bake from eight to ten minutes, basting often. Add a cup of stock to the baking pan; thicken; put in two tablespoons of currant jelly. Season and serve. Aspee of Fillets of Chicken. Take a mold, set on ice and water. and fill to the depth of quarter of an inch with dissolved aspic jelly. 58 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY When this is set cut in fancy shapes with French cutters hard-boiled eggs, truffles, pickles and cooked beet. Arrange them in patterns and carefully put another layer of jelly. Arrange fillets of chicken that have been cooked and cut in nice shapes, neatly all round; pour over more jelly, then pour over a thick mayonnaise. Fill up the mould; put away in ice chest to harden. Aspic Jelly. Reduce one quart of white or dark consomme to two-thirds of a quart. Pour some in a mould about one-quarter of an inch in depth ; place on ice and water until it jellies ; lay on some of the following cooked meats, free from bones (not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould): chicken, game, tongue, or either of them. Cover with the remainder of consomme, so as to have the same thickness at the top as at the bottom. Place in a refrigerator until it jellies; then dip mold in warm water, turn on a dish. (Cold entree.) OYSTERS To prepare oysters for cooking pour over oysters water and take out one at a time, remove any bits of shell. Serious accidents have resulted from the presence of pieces of shells. Oyster juice is seldom used in cooking. Baked Oysters. Wash two dozen large oysters ; put them in bak- ing pan in the oven; bake till they open, keep in the shells. Add to the juice a little cayenne, lemon juice and butter. Serve very hot the oysters and sauce. Oysters a la Poulette. Put two tablespoons of butter in a hot saucepan; when hot add two tablespoons of chopped onion, one of carrot and parsley, bay leaf, sprig of thyme; simmer for ten minutes, add two tablespoons of flour; have one cup of light-colored PROOKKSS1YK COOKKKY ">'.) stock liot, pour gradually over, strain into double boiler. Season; add one cup of hot cream, stir well, when thick, add one pint of oysters, strain, squeeze over lemon juice, cook till plump and add to the sauce. Oyster en Coquille. Choose six large oysters; drain. Wash oyster shells. Now marinate the oysters with melted butter, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Fill the shells, and cover with stale bread crumbs. Put bits of butter on top and brown in very hot oven, then put on each shell one slice of lemon. Fried Oysters. Drain the oysters, season them with salt and pepper, roll them in a few fine bread crumbs (one by one), dip each one in egg, roll again in crumbs. Let stand one hour. Boil in hot fat one minute. Serve in a hot napkin. Fancy Roast. Put one tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, add one-half saltspoon of white pepper, one teaspoon of salt, a few grains of cayenne and a tablespoon of tomato catsup. When hot add one pint of oysters and cook until plump and the edges curl. Serve on toast. Oysters en Beurre Noir. One pint of oysters, two tablespoons of butter, two of vinegar, a speck of cayenne pepper. Put butter in a rnlil saucepan and brown, l>e careful not to burn. Strain the oysters, cook until plump and the leaves curl, sprinkle with one-half teaspoon of salt, add to the brown butter into which the vinegar and pepper have l>een added. Fill Dresden fritters and serve hot. Oysters and Bacon. Wrap each oyster in a very thin piece of salt pork or bacon, and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Fry in a hot frying-pan until plump and the edges curl. If oysters are allowed to cook too long, and lose their plumpness, they become hard and indigestible. 60 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Curried Oysters. Cook oysters until plump, or until the edges curl. Cook two tablespoons of chopped onion in one tablespoon of butter five minutes. Be careful not to burn. Mix one tablespoon of curry powder with two tablespoons of flour, and stir into the butter; add one pint of hot milk gradually, and stir as directed for white sauce. Add the oysters. Kidney Stew with Sweetbreads. One beef kidney, one onion, two tomatoes, a bouquet seasoning, one set of sweetbreads. Wash and then cut the kidney in small pieces, chop and fry the onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter till brown, then add the pieces of kidney and fry till slightly brown. Put this into a saucepan and cover with boiling water, simmer four hours or till tender. While cooking put in the bouquet tied in cheese cloth. If you like spices add to bouquet four cloves, s"ame of allspice, a blade of mace. In half an hour remove the bouquet, add sliced tomatoes. Season to taste. Clean sweetbreads, cook as directed; when cold cut them in small pieces, fry brown in butter, season and add to kidney stew with one finely chopped green pepper. One-half hour before serving ornament with French potatoes. Calves' brains may be substituted for sweetbreads. Sweetbreads may be omitted. If desired, just before serving add a small glass of champagne or white wine sweetened. Croustades of Rice. Wash two cups of rice, pour over the rice six cups of boiling broth, cook till tender, or about one-half hour, season with one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of cayenne, a table- spoon of butter and a tablespoon of grated cheese, one-fourth of a grated nutmeg. Spread in a buttered pan that is, one inch thick cover with greased paper, leave to cool with a weight on top. Cut in rounds with a large biscuit cutter, with a smaller cutter make a round in the center like patties (dip the cutter each time in warm water). Dip croustades in egg, then in bread crumbs; fry in deep fat five minutes; remove the center round, scoop out the center and fill with oysters a la poulette or anything preferred. Cover with the center round. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 61 Baked Bell Peppers. Select bell peppers of uniform size, cut off the top, remove the seeds and stuff with oyster forcemeat, bake in a buttered pan one-half hour. Peppers a la Espagnol. Select bell peppers of uniform size, put them into boiling water, let stand for a while, when you can readily remove the skin. When cool cut off the large end, remove the center, fill with any entree preferred, and bake twenty minutes, basting frequently with melted butter. Serve with Spanish Sauce. After filling the peppers put on the covers again and sew them down. Poached Eggs and Mushrooms. Peel enough mushrooms to fill two cujis. after they are broken in small pieces, sprinkle over them a little salt and let them stand a few moments, this will remove any small bugs; put in a strainer and pour over a little water, shake well and put in a saucepan with a tablespoon of butter, cook slowly fifteen minutes or till soft. Poach six eggs, by dropping carefully into boiling salted water, remove with a skimmer and arrange round the edge of a platter and pile the mushrooms in the center. Croustades of Asparagus. Cut off the tops of rolls or biscuit. Scrape out the inside, set with the tops into the oven to crisp. Make a white sauce; put in the tops of two bunches of cooked asparagus. Fill the rolls with this; cover. Serve. Macaroni, Italian Style. Put into a saucepan one large spoonful of lard; when melted put in two pounds of beef (a piece of the round); when fried brown on one side, turn, and fry the same on the other. Put in one sliced onion, pepper, salt and other spices to suit. When this has cooked for about one-half hour put in one- quarter of a can of tomatoes, or an equal quantity of fresh; improved by adding Italian dried mushrooms. Boil slowly (if necessary add boiling water, or .broth sufficient to make about a pint of gravy) ; cook about two hours in all. Take one pound of Royal macaroni, 62 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY or spaghetti, and put into a large kettle full of boiling water; cook for twenty minutes, seasoning with salt. Strain well when done. Spread the macaroni or spaghetti on a platter; pour over it the stew, and sprinkle with cheese, serve hot. Macaroni and Tomatoes. Cook one quart of tomatoes until quite dry. Cook macaroni until soft in salted water, drain it, grate one cup of cheese, melt two tablespoons of butter in a hot stew pan, add the grated cheese, and stir until ropy. Turn into the cooked tomatoes, season with a saltspoon of cayenne and add white pepper. Put the macaroni around a hot platter, pour tomatoes into the center. Serve very hot and quickly. Any food cooked with cheese must be served as soon as cooked. Macaroni. One-half cup of macaroni after being broken into inch pieces. Cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes or till soft. Drain; pour cold water over it, and serve with hot white sauce, or tomato sauce. Baked Macaroni. Boil one pound of best macaroni or spaghetti, as stated, put in a bake pan, mix with some melted butter and grated cheese, sprinkle the top with cheese grated, add one cup of milk, bake until the top is brown. Notice Care should always be taken that the water in which the macaroni or spaghetti is cooked be boiling before the same is put in. Timballs of Salmon. One pound of salmon. Remove the skin, take out the bones, chop, and pound in a mortar with a cjove of garlic, a saltspoon of mustard, a speck of red pepper, saltspoon of white pepper, six canned mushrooms chopped fine. Press all through a wire sieve; add a cup of cream; if not add more season- ing if needed. Beat the whites stiff; add gradually to timbal mix- ture. Butter timbal moulds well and fill; cover with greased paper, put into the oven in a pan with hot water, cook fifteen min- utes, turn out and eerve with Hollandaise sauce. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 63 Timhalls of Chicken. Chop a chicken breast, pound in a mortar; add the same quantity of bread soaked, squeezed; season with teaspoon of salt, one-half of pepper, saltspoon of nutmeg; press through a sieve, add the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. Grease six timbal moulds, sprinkle with stale bread crumbs, fill, cook as above directed. Serve with Madeira sauce. Fillet of Chicken. A chicken breast has four fillets. Dip the fillets in two tablespoons of melted butter with a teaspoon of chopped parsley, season with salt and pepper. Roll in dried bread crumbs, then in egg. then in crumbs; fry in deep fat five minutes. Take up on butcher paper; serve with currant jelly. Gnllatin of Chicken. One-half pound of lean veal, one-half pound of sausage meat, one quart of bread crumbs, a bunch of pars- ley: season with a teaspoon of salt and half a teaspoon of pepper and a little grated nutmeg, one shalot or small onion, one-fourth pound of bacon. Remove all the bones from an uncooked chicken, spread out the meat and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pound the uncooked veal in a mortar, with the parsley and half a teaspoon of powdered tliynie. and a grated shalot. When thoroughly pounded put into a bowl, add the sausage meat, bread crumbs, two eggs and a grating of nutmeg, the salt and pepper. Place the forcemeat over the chicken, lay over the forcemeat one-fourth of a pound of bacon, cut in thin slices. Add ten sliced mushrooms and four sliced hard- boiled eggs. Spread the gallatin in a cloth, roll tightly, and secure it will) a string. Place in a stock pot with any meat bones you may have, and chopped soup vegetables and spices. Cover with boiling water and let it simmer three hours. Remove from the pot, place between two boards, with a weight on the top. When cold take out of the cloth and trim the ends, then glaze it over with meat glax.e. or, if preferred, pour aspic jelly over this. It may be served whole, garnished with lemon, or cut in thin slices and laid on salad, (larnish with parsley and boiled beets. 64 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Glaze. Reduce the stock in which the gallatin has been made to a glaze; that is, boil away until it is thick. Smothered Chicken. Prepare chicken as for roasting, and split down the back. Heat in frying-pan four tablespoons of butter, lay in the seasoned chicken, breast side down. Simmer slowly one hour and a half, or until tender. Turn over, and cover with cream and smother half an hour. Remove chicken to hot platter, season the cream, thicken with flour, cook five minutes, pour over the chicken and serve. Garnish with points of toast. Or lay chicken in baking pan, breast up, cover closely and bake until a delicate brown and very tender. Cover with cream and pieces of butter. Season, cover, and let it cook half an hour. Scalloped Chicken. One chicken (or one can of boned chicken), can of mushrooms, small blade of mace, a few shred of onions, one tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons of flour, one cup of fine bread crumbs. Cut up the chicken, put in a saucepan the butter, mace and onions. When the butter is hot add the chicken. Stir until a glaze is over it, then add sufficient water to stew. Cook until ten- der. Take out the meat, separate from the bones, chop slightly, season. To one cup of broth add one teacup of milk, two table- spoons of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and one egg. Butter a baking dish, sprinkle with bread crumbs, a layer of chicken, then a layer of mushrooms cooked in one tablespoon of butter ; moisten well with the gravy; continue until the dish is full, adding crumbs last. Scatter over all a few bits of butter. Put in the oven and bake one-half hour. Fricassee of Chicken. Cut chicken neatly at every joint in pieces for serving. Heat a large piece of butter in a frying-pan, add a slice of salt pork; when hot put in one slice of onion, one of carrot and a bouquet. Put in the chicken and fry slowly; when brown, season, pour over hot water and simmer until tender. Remove PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 65 chicken, thicken the gravy, add one cup of cream, strain, return to btove, season ; put in the chicken and heat for about fifteen minutes. If liked, one-half cup of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, may be added. Arrange the body of chicken in center of dish, with wings on top, thighs below, drumsticks at the end of platter. Pour over some of the gravy ; put the remainder in sauce-boat. Frogs' Legs a la Cream. Cook six pair's of frogs legs fifteen min- utes in hot milk with a little salt. Put one pint of cream in double boiler. When hot add half teaspoon of salt, saltspoon of white pepper. Melt two tablespoons of butter in hot saucepan ; add two tablespoons of flour, pour gradually over a part of the cream. Stir all into double boiler; stir well; when thick add the frogs' legs. Devilled Crab. One crab, pull off the sand bag and the shaggy substance from the sides, being careful to save the fat which is on the bottom and the sides of the shell. Chop the meat fine, season with a speck of cayenne, salt and pepper, two tablespoons of melted butter, one tablespoon of sherry, one beaten egg, two tablespoons of cream, a grating of nutmeg, one saltspoon of mustard. If not soft enough add more cream. Fill a crab shell, or small shells that can be had for this purpose. Cover with bread crumbs, squeeze on a little lemon juice, put bits of butter on top, and brown in a quick oven. If the flavor of garlic or onion is desired, rub on the shells before putting in the mixture. Serve on a bed of parsley or water- cresses, with a slice of lemon on each shell. Quenelles. Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half fat, the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and press it through a sieve. Mix the yolks of two eggs with it and season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered cinnamon. Spread flour on the paste board, put a teaspoon of meat here and there, roll gently each part into small balls, using as little flour as possible. They may also be rolled an olive shape. Throw the balls into boiling broth or boiling water at the first boiling, boil 66 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY five minutes and drain. As soon as cold they are ready for use. Quenelles are used for garnishing. They may be fried instead of boiled. Rissoles or Ceciles. One pound of meat chopped fine, have two tablespoons of stale bread crumbs, two tablespoons of suet chopped, one teaspoon of chopped parsley, one-half teaspoon of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, gill of stock, one tablespoon of flour. Mix meat, butter, bread crumbs and herbs, salt, one tablespoon of flour, add one gill of stock. Flour the board and turn mixture on it. Form into little balls, roll in egg and bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat. For a change make plain pie crust, adding a little baking powder. Roll out thin, cut in small squares, put each rissole in a square and cover; dip in egg and crumbs; fry three minutes. Shrimps. Make a sauce, the same as white sauce, using one pint of cream, and add one cup of shrimps ; heat ; if liked, add one-half cup of strained cooked tomatoes. Liles aux Emoules. Open two quarts of clams or mussels by setting on stove in kettle without water. Add one clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley, and steam until open. Remove shells and strain liquor. Add to the liquor one cup of white wine, thicken with two tablespoons of flour and one of butter. Cook in double boiler. Add the yolks of two eggs, one cup of cream, the mussels and one cup of shrimps ; heat, skim out the mussels and shrimps, place on hot dish, and pour over the sauce. Garnish with points of toast. Creme Fr/te. Boil one pint of milk with one stick of cinnamon. Beat one-half cup of sugar, two tablespoons of corn starch and one of flour, with the yolks of three eggs, one-quarter cup of milk, one saltspoon of salt. Add boiling milk to this mixture, and cook fif- teen minutes in double boiler ; add one teaspoon butter, one teaspoon vanilla. Put away to cool in buttered pan. When cool cut >in fancy shapes, dip in bread crumbs, then egg, then bread crumbs; fry in deep fat. Sprinkle with sugar if you choose. I'KOi-KKSSIVK COOKERY 67 Barbecued Ham. Spread on slices of ham, cooked or uncooked, one teaspoon of mixed mustard, then add one teaspoon of vinegar; lay on hot saucepan, pour vinegar around, turn often. When cooked add a teaspoon of wine or vinegar. Serve hot. Honolulu Curry. A small cocoanut, one-quarter of an onion, a clove of garlic, inch of ginger, two tablespoons of curry powder, one quart of milk, four tablespoons of butter, four of flour, salt, pepper to taste. Grate cocoanut and ginger, onion, put into milk, with the curry powder; cook half an hour. Add butter and flour. Have cooked meat or fish cut in small pieces ; take half the curry mixture and heat the meat in it. Serve on a hot dish, with the rest of the mixture poured over it. Escalloped Calves' Brains. Soak two sets of calves' brains in warm water two bourn; free from skin and fibres, wash in cold water. Tie them loosely in muslin, put in saucepan, cover with boiling water, add one tablespoon of vinegar; boil gently ten min- utes, take from the water and put in cold water; when cold cut in small pieces. Heat one tablespoon of butter, add two table- spoons of flour; add one-half pint of hot milk to the cooked flour and butter; cook, add one-half teaspoon of onion juice, one-half tea- spoon of salt, a grain of pepper and one egg. Sprinkle on brains one-half tablespoon of salt and a speck of pepper. Have ready one pint of bread crumby. Alternate a layer of calves' brains and a layer of bread crumbs in a baking dish until full, and pour over the eauce. Bake twenty minutes. Calf's Head a la Turk. When the head is cooked remove the bones, put the head with skin down in baking pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and mixed sweet herbs; cover with stale bread crumbs. Drop dabs of butter over it, put in quick oven and brown. Remove to a hot platter, garnish with the cooked tongue sliced and parsley. Serve with sauce piquante. Squeeze lemon juice over it before set- ting in oven. VEGETABLES See directions for cooking vegetables. Lyonnaise Potatoes. One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut into dice, season with salt and pepper. Fry one scant tablespoon of finely minced onion in one heaping tablespoon of butter until golden brown. Add potatoes and stir with a fork till they absorb the but- ter, being careful not to break the potatoes. Add one tablespoon of chopped parsley and one tablespoon of vinegar. Creamed Potatoes. Cut one pint cold potatoes into dice or thin slices, put them into a shallow pan, cover with milk, and cook until the potatoes have absorbed nearly all the milk. Add one tablespoon butter, one-half tablespoon salt, a speck of pepper and a little chopped parsley. Potato Boats. Select potatoes of uniform size, bake one-half hour or until done, take from oven, cut lengthwise or through the center. Scoop out the ineide, squeeze through a potato-ricer. Heat half a cup of milk, two tablespoons of melted butter. Season the potatoes, add milk and butter and beat till light and creamy. Put back carefully into half skins, rounding neatly with a knife dipped in milk. Put in oven and brown quickly. Maitre cT Hotel Potatoes. Cut cold boiled potatoes into cubes and season. Make a cream or milk sauce, put potatoes into part of sauce, place in a greased baking dish, cover with the remainder of 68 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 69 sauce. Heat and brown slightly in a hot oven; sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Potatoes prepared in this way, using brown sauce instead, with a few drops of onion juice, are very good. Plain boiled potatoes may be pleasantly varied by adding a bay leaf when cooking. Escallope Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes, lay in cold water fifteen minutes. Put a layer of potatoes into a well greased baking dish, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and bits of butter, another layer of potatoes until two-thirds full, then pour in cold milk to nearly fill the dish. Put in the oven and cook covered one hour. They will be creamy if cooked in moderate oven. Potatoes au Gratin. Cut six cold boiled potatoes in dice. Melt two tablespoons of butter, add two tablespoons of flour, pour on one cup of hot stock and one cup of hot milk slowly. Add four heaping tablespoons of grated cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of potato in a dish, then some sauce, and so on until all is used. Sprinkle with crumbs and brown in the oven. A Southern Dish. Cut cold baked sweet potatoes into quarter- inch slices, and put them In an earthen dish. Spread each layer with butter, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until hot and slightly browned. Scalloped Potatoes. Six large potatoes, one-half pound salt pork, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper. Slice the pota- toes and soak in cold water twenty minutes. Cut the pork in thin slices and freshen in cold water. Put alternate layers of pork and potatoes in a baking dish and sprinkle with seasoning. The pork should be at the top and bottom of the dish. Cover the dish and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. Remove the cover and bake twenty minutes longer. Potatoes with Bacon. Eight potatoes, eight strips of bacon, 70 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY one-half saltspoon of pepper. Wash and peel the potatoes, then with an apple-corer take a piece out of the potatoes from end to end, draw through the holes the strips of bacon well seasoned with pep- per. Bake in an earthen dish. Boiled Potatoes. Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash and scrub them. Pare and cover with cold water. Put them into a saucepan of boiling salted water. Cook- half an hour or until soft. Drain off every drop of water. Place the saucepan, uncovered, at the back of the stove to let the steam escape. Shake gently. Serve hot. Mint Sauce for Lamb. One cup of fresh mint, one-quarter cup of brown sugar, one-half cup of vinegar. Pick off the leaves, chop them, add the vinegar and sugar, if the vinegar is too strong add a little water or more sugar. Make about one-half hour before needed. Rice Potatoes. Boil potatoes, press them through a tin ricer into a hot dish. Mashed Potatoes. To one pint of hot boiled potatoes add one tablespoon of butter, one-half teaspoon of salt, a speck of pepper and enough hot milk to moisten. Mash in the saucepan in which they are boiled; beat with a fork till light and creamy. Turn out lightly on a hot dish. Potato Cakes. Make cold mashed potatoes into round cakes about one-half inch thick. Put into a baking tin and brush over with milk. Bake in a hot oven till a golden brown. Potato Souffle. Prepare mashed potatoes, adding a little celery, salt and chopped parsley ; beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth ; add a little salt. Turn into a baking dish, pile in a rocky form, bake ten minutes, until brown. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 71 A very attractive dish is mashed sweet and white potatoes, served together; put first a strip of the white, the width of the dish, then one of the yellow, and so on, until the dish is full. Never smooth mashed potato. Pile it lightly up. Cook scalloped potatoes an hour in a hot oven in a pudding pan. Soak cauliflower one-half hour before cooking, head downward in salted water. Make potato salad of yesterday's and to-day's potatoes. French Potatoes in Brown Butter. Peel potatoes and lay in cold water, scoop into round balls with French cutter. Put them into boiling salted water, parboil them, remove with a skimmer, par- tially cool, brown in hot butter; add a little onion juice. These make a very pretty garnishing for stews and entrees. Saratoga Potatoes. Slice raw potatoes very thin, let lay in ice water one hour. Have the deep fat smoking hot. Heat wire frying basket, remove potatoes and dry quickly in cloth, put them into the frying basket a few at a time, plunge into boiling fat, fry a light brown. Put on brown paper to absorb the fat, and set in the oven to dry off a few moments. Heat fat again and fry remainder of the potatoes, spread on fresh brown paper and dry as before. The suc- cess of these potatoes depends altogether on the heat of the fat. Green Peas. Peas are fresh when the pods are green and crisp. The fresh pods are sweet and nutritious. Wash the pods before shelling. Put the peas in a colander. Pour over them a little cold water. Put the pods in boiling water, cook them ten minutes, take them out with a skimmer, add the peas, cook twenty minutes, or until tender. When half done add the salt. Put into a hot vege- table dish, allowing one tablespoon of butter to each quart of peas, or make a thin white sauce and add to the peas. To keep peas green cook with the cover off, or add a speck of soda. The French way of 72 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY cooking peas is to add while boiling a bouquet or two or three leaves of mint. If peas are not sweet add a little sugar while cooking. For a change cut carrots in dice, cook and add to the peas. Serve in white sauce. String" Beans. Wash, break off the stem, and pull off the string at the side of each bean, break off the end, and string on the other side. Cut in inch pieces, or cut lengthwise in narrow strips. Boil the same as peas. Cook one hour. Asparagus. Wash, tie in bundles, cut off jagged ends. Put in a stewpan, throw over salt, cover with boiling water ; boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Serve with white sauce, or mayonnaise dressing, or on buttered toast, covering ends with one tablespoon of melted butter ; or thicken the liquid the asparagus has been boiled in with flour and butter blended together, allowing one tablespoon of butter and one of flour to each large bunch. Succotash Green Corn. One pint of shelled beans, one pint of green corn, after it has been cut from the cob. Put the corn and cobs in boiling water, cook from ten to fifteen minutes. Cook lima beans one-half hour, add the corn, season with one teaspoon of salt and a saltspoon of pepper ; butter the size of an egg, one-half cup of cream. Green corn becomes tough if cooked too long. Cook corn on the cobs the same length of time. Serve in a napkin folded over the corn. Beets. Wash beets, put them in boiling water, boil from one to one and one-half hours. Throw them into cold water, and the dark, thick skin will rub off. Cut in slices, place in hot serving dish, put on pieces of butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Or cut in slices, and when cold pour over vinegar. Add a little vinegar to cooked beets before putting over butter, if cared for. Carrots Turnips. Scrape carrots before boiling. Boil from one hour to two hours. Peel turnips, boil one hour, mash, add butter and salt and pepper. PROGKKHS1VK COOKERY 73 Lettuce. Lettuce grown in hot-house should not be washed, hut that grown in the garden, on account of the grit, must be washed. Do not chop lettuce. Onions Baked. Remove outer skin, cut out hard part at one end, put into the hollow a piece of butter, some pepper and salt ; bake in a buttered pan from one to one and one-half hours. Boiled Onions. Cook one hour in boiling salted water. Put into hot dish, remove the hard part at end, put a piece of butter in each one, pepper and salt ; put on the hot cover and serve, or serve with white or brown sauce. Baked Tomatoes. Chop two tablespoons of lean ham, two mush- rooms, one small shalot, one tablespoon of parsley, one tablespoon of cheese, one teaspoon of bread crumbs ; season, mix with one egg. Remove a little of the center, and stuff the tomatoes ; stew with bread crumbs, add bits of butter, bake until brown. Serve with any sauce preferred. Baked Cauliflowers. Boil a small cauliflower in water enough to cover it with the flower part down until tender, having one tea- spoon of salt in the water. When the cauliflower is boiled suffic- iently put it in a baking dish and cover with cream sauce ; sprinkle with English dairy cheese grated ; bake until light brown. Be care- ful to have cauliflower whole. Cauliflower, cabbage and artichokes should lay in cold salted water before cooking. A piece of charcoal added to the water while cauliflower is cooking will prevent any odor. Spinach. Wash thoroughly, then each leaf, carefully. Then drain in a colander. Put on to cook without water, sprinkle with salt. Cover tightly and cook fifteen minutes, chop fine in tray, add one tablespoon of butter, a grating of nutmeg. Return to kettle and heat, take up with skimmer into a hot dish. Garnish with hard boiled eggs. ,4 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY Artichokes. Boil in salted water one-half hour, remove a few of the outer leaves ; serve hot, with mayonnaise dressing. Egg Plant. Cut the plant in slices one-third of an inch thick, with or without peeling, sprinkle salt over each slice, pile them, and cover with a weight to press out the juice. Drain and dip each slice, first in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, again in crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Mushrooms Stewed. Peel the top and stalk, break in small pieces, place them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, let them stand half an hour, until juice is drawn out. Add a tablespoon of butter ; cook until tender, add cream to cover, and when cream is hot serve on toast. Stewed Cucumbers. Pare the cucumbers, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds, soak in salted water one-half hour. Then put them in salted boiling water and cook until tender. Season with salt, pepper and butter and serve on toast. They will cook in half an hour. Fried Cucumbers. Pare good-sized cucumbers, lay in cold or ice water one-half hour. Then slice lengthwise one-quarter inch thick, sprinkle slices with salt, let stand fifteen minutes. Wipe, roll in flour, fry very brown in hot fat. Serve on hot napkin. Tomatoes. Fry sliced tomatoes in hot sweet oil. Cabbage. Try cabbage cooked same as cauliflower. Fried Bananas. Cut bananas lengthwise and fry brown in butter. Rice d la Carolina. To one cup of nice, well-washed rice, allow three cups of boiling water. Put rice in a stewpan, add the water, PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 75 and one teaspoon of salt. Boil rapidly, occasionally stirring with a fork, when the water disappears cover the pot with a cloth and place at back of the stove, or where only heat enough will be obtained to slowly steam the rice. Boil without a lid. Boiled Rice. Three quarts of boiling water, two and one-half tablespoons of salt, one cup of rice. Have water boiling very fast ; put in the rice, and cook fifteen to twenty minutes without stirring. When soft drain off every particle of water and let it stand in the colander on the back of the stove till dry. Chicken Salad. One pint of cold boiled or roasted chicken, one- half pint of celery. Cut the chicken in small pieces. Wash and scrape the celery, cut in small pieces. Mix with a French dressing. Put away on ice. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix a part with the chicken. Pile the chicken on a dish, pour the rest of the dressing over it. Garnish the top with cold cooked beets cut in fancy shapes, the ends and sides with celery leaves. Tomato Salad. Take six small firm tomatoes. Put them into 1 Killing water and remove the skins. Set away for an hour to get thoroughly cool. Then scoop out from the center of each tomato a piece the size of a hickory nut. Fill with mayonnaise dressing. Set each tomato on a lettuce leaf, adding more dressing. Serve individ- ually very cold. Potato Salad. Four boiled potatoes mashed and rubbed through a sieve. Mix one saltspoon of mustard, two teaspoons of salt, yolks of two hard boiled eggs, a few drops of onion juice, add slowly four teaspoons of oil, two tablespoons of vinegar and one tablespoon of anchovy sauce. Mix thoroughly with the potato. Garnish with parsley and serve very cold, or cut in dice and serve the same way. Lettuce Salad. When served as a salad, put the dressing on the 76 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY whole leaves, curl, shell shape, serve individually or pile in salad dish, mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing, garnished with boiled beets cut in fancy shapes, or rings of whites of hard boiled eggs. Shrimp or Crab Salad. Make a mayonnaise dressing. Mix in the shrimps, spread over with the dressing and garnish with beets cut in fancy shapes. For crab salad remove the meat from a cooked crab, chop rather fine, season with salt, pepper and a speck of cay- enne pepper ; mix and cover with mayonnaise dressing the same as above. Or lay leaves of lettuce around the dish and fill with the fish or shrimps, mix and cover with the dressing and garnish with rings of eggs or beets cut in fancy shapes. Oyster Salad. One quart of oysters, one pint of celery, one-third cup of mayonnaise dressing, three tablespoons of vinegar, one table- spoon of oil, one-half teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of pepper, one tablespoon of lemon juice. Let the oysters come to a boil in their own liquor. Skim well, and drain. Season them with the oil, vinegar, pepper, salt and lemon juice. When cold put on the ice for two hours. Wash the whitest part of the celery, and cut in very thin slices. Put it in a bowl with a large lump of ice. At serving time, drain the celery, and mix with the oysters and half of the dressing. Pour the remainder over the top, and garnish with white celery leaves. Lobster Salad. Cut into cubes enough lobster to make a quart. Put it into a bowl, and mix with it three tablespoons of vinegar, one tablespoon of oil, one teaspoon of salt, and one-half teaspoon of pepper. Put on ice for an hour. Wash the heart leaves of four heads of lettuce, place in a dish and sprinkle with cracked ice. When ready to serve stir one-half pint of mayonnaise into the lobster. Shake ice and water from the lettuce ; form the leaves into shells with one tablespoon of lobster in each shell and one teaspoon of dressing on top of lobster. PROGRESSIVE COOKERY 77 Asparagus Salad. Take cold boiled asparagus, pile eight stalks ; plates as many as are needed and put a tablespoon of Remoullde sauce on each plate. Preserved Pears or Other Large Fruits. Wash, pare, quarter and core pears of uniform size ; throw them into cold water to pre- vent them from turning brown. Fill preserving jars neatly with the pears. Set them in a nicely scrubbed wash boiler with a rack on the bottom, add cold water to come up one-fourth of the jars. Make a syrup allowing one pint of granulated sugar to a quart of water, tie up in a piece of cheese cloth, six cloves, some of allspice, a small piece of cinnamon, a pinch of dried ginger ; put into the syrup, cook the syrup ten minutes, pour this syrup hot into the jars till they overflow. Put on the cover of the boiler and steam twenty minutes. Remove the jars, screw on the covers. When cold screw them again. A rack can be made of laths fitted together to form squares. CAKES DIRECTIONS FOR CAKE MAKING Read all recipes carefully before commencing, and then try and remember them, having your book before you to refer to. Have all materials measured before commencing to mix, the pan buttered, and the baking powder in the sifted flour. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar and beat again. Then add the beaten yolks of eggs (if there is milk in the cake put it into the bowl the eggs have been beaten in); add alternately the milk and flour; then the flav- oring. Stir in the center with the spoon held straight, occasionally stirring around the edges. When well stirred beat vigorously. Now add the well beaten whites, folding in over and over. Bake the cake as soon as mixed. For sponge cake beat the yolks ten minutes, add the sugar and beat again; then the flour, flavoring, etc., and lastly the beaten whites. Butter the tins, and for thick cake put in a strip of paper, allow- ing it to come an inch above the pan. This enables you to lift the cake out when baked. Or cut paper the size of the bottom of the pan and slightly grease again. The success of cake depends on the baking and mixing. To bake thick cake heat your oven, then partly close the dampers and add more coal. If too hot, leave the door open until the oven cools off a bit, then close. Put in your cake and cover with a pan the same size as the one your cake is in. Do not open the door for half an hour, if possible; should you open it be very careful to open gently. Thin cakes will bake in twenty to twenty -five minutes ; larger, in proportion to size. If necessary to 78 PROGRESSIVE COOKKKV 79 move cake do it very carefully, and not until it is set in the middle. When cake shrinks from the sides and does not stick to a wisp of broom when inserted into the center, it is baked. Do not take from the oven too quickly or the cake will fall. If the oven be too hot the cake will brown before rising. When it rises in the center, breaks open and stays up it is too stiff with flour. It should first rise around the edges, then in the middle. Mix cake in an earthen bowl, never in tin. Use the best materials, the finest granulated or powdered sugar. Eggs must be fresh and cold. When making cake it is best to use a Dover egg beater for beating the whites of eggs. For meringue and egg-nog beat with wire beater and beat on a platter with a long motion, slow at first, then quicker. Put a small pinch of salt on the platter before you commence to beat, for recipes where salt is called for, such as custards, etc. Yolks can be beaten to a froth in ten minutes. Eggs must not be allowed to stand after you commence to beat them, or they will return to liquid and will not again become light. Keep eggs in a cold place, and if soiled wash them before putting away. Never allow an egg beater to soak in water. Wash it by beating in the water. California flour is richer than Eastern flour, therefore, in cake making, use a little less butter than the recipes call for. What is called pastry flour in Eastern cook-books is the same as our best roller flour. California wheat is richer and more nutritious; there- fore, our roller flour is not quite so dry as Eastern pastry flour. Citron should not be floured. To keep citron from dropping to the bottom of cake put a layer of cake and then a layer of citron, until the materials are used up, the top layer being cake. This applies to deep cakes. Pick currants over carefully, wash and dry in a cloth ; set in moderate oven to dry thoroughly before putting in the jar. Stone raisins, put in jars and set away for use, so that in making cakes, etc., they may be in readiness. If you cannot have full control of the stove do not attempt to make cake. Stir with a wooden spoon. Currants and raisins must be floured before using, 80 PROGRESSIVE COOKERY or they will drop to the bottom of cake. Beating cake, etc., beats in the air. If well beaten whites are added last beat cake, and then fold in the whites over and over, but do not stir. BAKING POWDERS Pure baking powders are soda and cream of tartar mixed in the proper proportions, combined with rice flour, corn starch, or some harmless ingredient to insure keeping. Cream of tartar is often mixed with a white earth that the unexperienced cannot detect. Soda being less expensive is not so much adulterated. Consequently the using of soda and cream of tartar is objectionable. Pure baking powder can be had. I get the best results from Dr. Price's Baking Powder. Ammonia in baking powder causes the big holes and dry cake and biscuit, instead of light, flaky cake and biscuit. Water Sponge Cake. One egg, one-half cup of sugar, one tea- spoon of lemon juice, three tablespoons of cold water, two-thirds cup of flour, one even teaspoon of baking powder. Beat the yolk, then add sugar and beat again, add the lemon juice and water, then the flour in which the baking powder has been mixed, lastly the white beaten stiff. Bake in shallow pans. Put jelly between the layers and ice with boiled icing. Sponge Ca