le tae

PROPAGATION.

OF

POREST TREES

HAVING COMMERCIAL VALUE

ADAPTED TO PENNSYLVANIA.

PUBLISHED BY THE

By GEORGE H. WIRT, forester.

PENNSYLVANIA DEPARTMENT OF FORESTRY.

1902
166 i}

WM. STANLEY RAY, :
STATE PRINTER OF PENNSYLVANIA.

PROPAGA’TION

OF

meokoao lt TREES

HAVING COMMERCIAL VALUE

ADAPTED TO PENNSYLVANIA.

By GEORGE H. WIRT, Forester.

PUBLISHED BY THE

PENNSYLVANIA DEPARTMENT OF FORESTRY.

eO

ts 166 ,

WM. STANLEY RAY,
STATE PRINTER OF PENNSYLVANIA.
1902.

|

Department of Forestry,
Harrisburg, Pa., February 2, 1902.

The frequent demands made upon this office for information as
to the best methods of propagating forest trees induced me to re-
quest Mr. Wirt, our State Forester, to prepare this bulletin upon
the subject. I believe it will be timely and useful.

J.T. ROTHROCK,
Commissioner of Forestry.

(3)

LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL.

e
To Hon. J. T. Rothrock, Commissioner of Forestry:

Dear Sir: I have the honor to submit herewith the following notes
on the “Propagation of Forest Trees Adapted to Pennsylvania.”

Recognizing the needs of our farmers, I have endeavored to pre-
sent in a brief and clear way such facts and methods as will bring
reasonable success to the inexperienced planter, without making
necessary any large expenditure of money. The nurseryman or the
forester may find nothing new and may even take exception to many
statements.

The botanical names of the trees and their order, for the greater
part, is in accordance with Gray’s “Manual of Botany,” sixth edi-
tion. In addition I have added those given by Britton and Brown
in their “Flora of North America and Canada,” when differing from
the nomenclature of Gray.

Very respectfully,
GEORGE H. WIRT,
Forester.
Harrisburg, Pa., February 1, 1902.

(5)

THE FOREST NURSERY.

Forestry work does not consist entirely of raising trees from seed
and of planting them, although that is a very important part of it.
Nor is all planting of trees forestry work. Forestry is a business and
must be conducted on a financial basis. Planting individual trees
is done mostly from an aesthetic standpoint and at a comparatively
high expense. Planting for forestry purposes, under existing con-
ditions, must be reduced to the least possible cost, but it must be
understood that more may be lost in this operation from lack of
care and attention to the young plants than by trying to save time
and money along some other line of work. The methods of raising
trees are aS varied and as numerous as the trees themselves, the
people who plant them and the localities in which they are planted.
In other words, the conditions under which each planter has to work
are so different that there can be no exact method laid down that will
be applicable for all trees and all places. But there are certain laws
of plant life in general, and facts in regard to particular trees that,
being reinforced by observation of nature and by common sense, will
undoubtedly lead to a measurable degree of success. For what fol-
lows there is no claim of originality. It is merely a sifted collection
of notes taken from the most reliable sources at hand and from
the observation of successful nursery work.

Nursery.

Location.—If many plants are to be raised and the planting is to
extend over a number of years, a permanent nursery must be pre-
pared. Its proximity to the house of the person in charge will afford
the advantage of easy and quick accessibility. Time can be saved
in going to and from it. A frequent inspection of its condition and
requirements is more likely to occur, and work may be done at odd
times. On the other hand, if the planting is to be done within one
or two years the nursery might best be placed near the prospective
plantation in order to save time in removing the young plants, and
to decrease the danger of loss resulting from exposure of the roots to
sun and wind. Less preparation is needed, perhaps, in this case, and
less care, in some respects, but in either case the following hints are
applicable.

GA

8

Aspect.—The land should have a very gradual slope, and face to-
wards the northeast to give the best results. Good drainage will
be obtained; the direct rays of the sun during the growing season
are avoided and in spring there is more gradual thaw, a condition
that is very desirable, for it is the sudden changes that affect plants
most. Other slopes may be used of course, but protection from
wind and from the sun must be provided for. As watering will often
be necessary, a stream or a spring should be close at hand.

Soil—tThe soil should be, preferably, a sandy loam of moderate
moisture—neither too wet nor too dry. Heavy soil should be avoid-
ed. Whatever land is used, ought to be worked up thoroughly, to a
depth of at least 14 feet, in the fall and again in the spring. More
especially should this be done on new land or on land that has not
been worked for a long time. The top soil should be well and evenly
fertilized. The more thoroughly the working is done the more
oxygen for plant life there will be in the soil. The moisture will be
better maintained. If the fertilizing is properly done, -instead of
raising seedlings with long, straggling roots, which cause more or
less difficulty in transplanting, there will be produced strong plants
with a compact system of root fibres, which is a better result for
many reasons.

Beds.—The size of the nursery must be left entirely to the planter
himself, but it may be a safe estimate to allow sixteen square feet of
bed for every three hundred broad-leaved seedlings and for every six
hundred conifers expected from a medium thickness of broadcast
sowing.

If transplanting is to be done, fifteen to thirty square feet may be
allowed for every one hundred conifers and thirty to sixty square
feet for every one hundred broad-leaved seedlings. To prepare the beds
stake out the paths or walks at right angles to each other. - Shovel
about six inches of soil from these and throw it on top of what will
be the beds. These may be kept in better shape, then, if boards are
placed around the sides, otherwise after each rain more or less soil
is washed into the walks, often exposing the roots, or washing out
entirely the plants along the edges. Long beds should be about four
feet across so as to be worked easily from each side. Of course these
are a saving in ground-space, but if there is much danger of damage
from mice it is best to have small beds about five feet square. Ora
ditch with perpendicular walls around the entire nursery will make
it mouse-proof. For taprooted species of trees, such as oak, walnut,
hickory, ash, etc., special beds might be made, so as to prevent the
forming of long taproots, by placing on about a level with the walks
a layer of boards or a very close layer of stones under the beds.

Moisture.—Moisture is one of the most necessary conditions of

plant life, consequently the needs of the nursery in this direction

-

9

must be carefully attended to. Frequent working of the soil and
weeding will make a fine, loose cover for the beds, preventing evapo-
ration to a very great degree. If the soil becomes too dry, watering
must be done. Very good results are obtained if the water is allowed
to flow through the walks, and to reach the soil in the beds by capil-
larity. Another good method is to make small irrigation trenches
on the beds, fill them and allow the water to soak into the ground.
Sprinkling is likely to form a crust which will increase evaporation.
After a rain the beds may be too moist. Ifso, proper conditions can
be made by sprinkling some dry sand over the ground. Young seed-
lings are very likely, too, to have earth spattered over their stems.
Especially is this so with conifers and they should be freed of this as
soon as possible by running a stick gently over them.

Weeding.—The nursery beds should be kept clean of weeds at all
times. If the seedlings have been planted in rows, or in the case of
transplants, weeds may be kept out by small billets of wood or by a
layer of moss, or of leaves placed between the rows. Weeding
should not be done after the first of September at the latest.

Shade.—During the first season’s growth, the young plants will be
very sensitive and they should be given some protection from the
sun. This can be done by making lath frames which will let through
about half the sunlight, and by placing them from two to six feet
above the beds. Ora frame may be made on which branches can be
laid. Some prefer simply sticking conifer branches into the beds in
such a way that they form a slight cover. Lath frames are, perhaps,
the most convenient, for the shade ought to be removed on cloudy
days and during gentle showers. These covers, as well as the bil-
lets to keep down weeds, will help to preserve the moisture in the
beds.

Seeds.

Choice of Species.—In determining the species to be raised, it is
well to observe what trees are growing in the locality, not only with-
in wooded districts but also along fences and in fields. They will
give an idea of the quality of the soil and of what may be expected in
the future, although this is not always the case, for other better spe-
cies may have been forced out by some cause. Find out when these
trees will have a good crop of seeds and then have everything ready
for work when it comes. Not all trees bear seeds every year, as in the
case of some oaks and conifers the period varies from two to five
years, or even longer. Nor do all seed years produce a full crop of
good seeds, as in the case of the tulip-tree. Then some seeds ripen in
early summer, however, those of most trees do not ripen till fall, or

10

even winter. From among these trees in the neighborhood, if they
are the proper species, select the healthiest ones and gather their
seeds as soon as ripe.

Time of Sowing.—Seeds of the poplars, soft maple, white elm,
paper and river birch, and others maturing in summer should ‘be
sown at once. They lose their power of germination in a short time.
Seeds of oaks, hickories, walnuts, conifers, and others which mature
in fall may be sown at once. The freezing and thawing of winter
will be beneficial to them, but the destruction by squirrels, mice, and
birds that is likely to occur is sufficient reason for not planting until
spring, if the seeds can be preserved properly. They should not be
allowed to dry out before planting nor should they be exposed con-
stantly to much moisture if they are to be kept for any length of
time.

Thickness of Sowing.—By making tests, either by cutting seeds or
by placing them between wet flannels in a warm room, so as to pro-
duce germination, or by some other method, ‘the percentage of good
seed is determined and from this the thickness of the sowing. It is
very easy to sow too thick, and then the seedlings will be weak, but
it is cheaper to thin out, and perhaps set the young plants in other
ground, than to have to fill up blanks.

Depth of Sowing.—The difficulty, in too many cases, has been that
instead of the seeds being planted, they are buried. As a general
rule, for depth of cover, the diameter of the seed is sufficient, but if
the ground is left very loose, or if there is danger from frost late in
spring, a heavier covering should be given. It is well, after sowing,
to roll the beds or to press the ground with a spade or a board. In
fall sowing cover the beds with a layer of leaves. It will prevent the
ground from heaving during the time of frost and in the spring will
prevent the heavy rains from washing out the seeds. .This may be
done to advantage, too, after spring sowing. In both cases a careful
watch must be kept and as soon as the seedlings appear the leaves
should be raked off. Branches might then be spread thinly over
them to keep the birds away, but these should not be left on too long
so as to in any way interfere with the growth. Small seeds may be
coated with red lead as a protection against birds.

Manner of Sowing.—As a usual thing the smaller seeds are sown
broadcast in the nursery, especially those of the conifers, the ash, the
birch, etc. The larger seeds, as those of the oaks, hickories, walnuts,
etc., are usually sown in furrows, or rows, from six to twelve inches
apart, on the nursery beds. The latter are often sown in rows where
the plants will remain permanently. This may be advisable with
with taprooted species. Broadcast sowing over a plantation is very
expensive and is very seldom done.

Ala

Transplanting.

‘Age of Plants—Most plants after they have remained in the seed
beds for one season, may be set out where they are to stand finally,
especially broad-leaved ones. The spruces and firs grow very slowly
during the first four or five years and may best be left two years in
the seed bed, then transplanted to other nursery beds and allowed to
remain there iwo or three years. Small and weak seedlings of other
species should be treated in the same way. Frequent transplanting
is recommended for al] species, when especially large and strong
plants are needed. In all cases before setting out finally, whether
on good or poor land, the object should be to grow and to use only
the strongest and best plants. They will be able to resist enemies
and hardships and to recover from injuries much better than weak
ones.

Time.—Transplanting can be done either in fall or in spring. If
done in fall, it should be after the growth has ripened or ceased.
During winter the dirt will have a chance tto settle about the roots,
and by spring the loss of root fibre will be partly made up. On the
other hand, frost may lift the plants out of the ground or storms may
loosen them. Then, too, they will be exposed to damage from
-animals at a time when food is scarce. In spring the work should be
done as early as possible, at least before the new growth begins.
Spring is preferable for conifers.

Distance.—The distance at which plants should be placed finally
depends upon the species, the age and the object in view. If fire-
wood is the only object then perhaps more wood will be formed per
tree by giving as much room and light as possible to the tops. Even
in this case it is a question whether close planting is not better finan-
cially, if small wood can be used or sold at all. Where it is the pur-
pose to get the soil covered quickly, to raise straight stems clean
from branches, either for poles or posts, or later for timber, close
planting must be done. For plantations of considerable size, to
plant at regular distances and to do it in a systematic way is at all
times cheapest. Cultivation may be done more quickly and easily.
Blanks may be easily found and filled, and later management is
facilitated. Of course mere filling of gaps in existing forests can
be done only in a very irregular method.

Roots.—There are numerous methods of planting, but, in all, the
most important thing is to take care of the roots. Perhaps more
failures could be traced to lack of care of them than to any other
cause. They are very sensitive to sun and wind and should never
be exposed long enough to become dried out. When the plants are
removed from the nursery they should be taken from the beds as care-

12

fully as possible so that very few roots be broken. Wrap the roots
in wet burlap or cover them with moist moss, or place them in thin
mud. The plants may then be carried safely to the place of plant-
ing. If it is not done at once they should be “heeled in.” In plant-
ing do not cramp the roots in any way and see that the growing ends
are down, and not up. Place fine soil among the roots and pack it
thoroughly. If sod has been taken out, turn it upside down on the
ground close to the tree. Young plants are sensitive to being
planted too deep and so should be no deeper than they were in the
nursery. Of course with larger plants, when a great deal of dirt has
been loosened, allowance must be made for some settling, but this
will not be necessary if packing is well done. When larger roots
have been broken or bruised they should be cut off smooth with a
sharp knife. Planting can not be done too carefully.

Methods.—In loose and in sandy soil small plants may be set out
quickly with the “dibble.” This is simply a wooden peg or some
iron instrument which will make a hole large enough to have the
roots dropped into it. The hole should be made deeper than the
roots are long. Place the plant in the hole as far as convenient and
then raise it to the proper planting depth. In this way the roots will
be in a natural position and not turned up, or to one side. The hole
is closed by running the dibble into the ground near the hole and
forcing the soil against the roots. This method may be used to good
advantage within a forest to fill up blanks if the soil is deep enough.

The most common method, and that applicable under more condi-
‘tions than any other, is planting in holes that have had to be dug in
some manner, as with a spade or hoe. It is necessary for large
plants. It is the best method for small plants in heavy soils and
in stony places. In fact it may be used anywhere but in the very wet
soils. It is well to have the holes dug in fall and allowed to lie open
during the winter for spring planting. Humus, rich ground or
manure may be used in planting, and if so, should be well placed
among the roots, the poorer soil being placed on top. Each plant
should be made firm.

On hillsides where a plow can be used terraces may be formed by
laying rows of stones along the hill side, or if more time can be taken,
by putting in stakes and placing small branches on the uphill side.
Run a furrow above this in autumn and during winter the ground will
be more or less broken up, facilitating spring planting a great deal.
Where a plow can not be used on a slope the only resource is to dig
holes just wherever possible and put in strong plants.

In wet soils, swamps or marshes, mound planting may best be used.
This is very similar to hole planting, except that the plant is put
into the ground thrown out of the hole instead of placing it in the
hole itself as in the other cases. If sod has been lifted, split it and

13

place the plant in the crevice. Here, too, the ground must be thor-
oughly packed around the roots of the plant. When balls of dirt are
taken out with the plants, holes must be dug somewhat larger than
the size of the ball on the plant. When this is done the plants may
be moved at any time of year and to any place. If the plants are
crooked or branchy after planting, cut them off about an inch and a
half above ground.

A few trees, such as willows and poplars, may be propagated by
cuttings. It is recommended that the cuttings be gathered in fall
from last year’s shoots and buried during winter. They should be
planted in spring while the ground is still moist. They will do well
if not gathered till spring, but before the new growth begins, and
planted at once. When planting leave one good bud above ground.
The others may be rubbed off. Layers or root suckers may be used
in a few instances but as a general rule, willows and poplars being
an exception, it is better to raise trees from seed.

CUCUMBER TREE, MOUNTAIN MAGNOLIA.
Magnolia acuminata, L.

This tree is nowhere common in Bennsylvania. It is, however, a
tree that is worthy of being cultivated because of the peculiar fitness
of its wood for pump stocks, watering troughs, ete.

The fruit is a cylindrical mass resembling the cucumber, whence the
tree’s name. This becomes red in autumn and it is then time to watch
for seeds, in order that they may be gathered as soon as ripe. About
the last of September, or tthe first of October, when fully mature,
scarlet seeds may be seen suspended from the fruit by delicate white
threads. Owing to an oil in the pulp that encloses each seed they
become rancid and lose their powerof germinationas soon as the pulp
decays. They should be placed at once in water of 70 degrees to 80
degrees Fahrenheit and macerated for about a week, when the seeds
can be thoroughly washed. These should then be fixed in a box in
alternate layers of sand and seeds, and kept in a cellar where they
will not freeze. As soon as the ground is warm in spring, about the
middle of May, they may be sown in furrows from six to eight inches
apart, on well prepared seed beds and covered lightly. If any fer-
tilizing is done a small quantity of wood ashes or of bone dust is
best. It is said that manure should not be used. The seedlings,
after remaining in the seed beds for two years, should be ready for
being set out where they are to remain. If intended for lawn plant-
ing they may be transplanted every two or three years until wanted,

14 :

The tree is found naturally in valleys or coves of mountainous
regions, and along rocky streams, prefering deep, rich soil. To do
well they must be planted in conditions as near as possible to those
under which they do best naturally. Plant in rows from two to five
feet apart and from eighteen to twenty-four inches in the row. Close
planting will prevent early branching.

SWEET BAY, SWAMP SASSAFRAS, BEAVER TREE.
Magnolia glauca, L.
Magnolia Virginiana, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 48.

The tree never reaches a very great size in this State and is of very
little importance except as an ornamental tree. Its flowers appear-
ing in June and continuing for several weeks are very beautiful and
fragrant. It prefers moist or swampy soils in a sheltered position.
Propagation from seed is the same as that for the cucumber tree, but
it may be easily propagated from layers which, it is said, require two
years to root. It is frequently grafted upon a root of the cucumber
tree and seems to grow better there than on its own roots.

UMBRELLA TREE, ELK WOOD.
Magnolia Umbrella, Lam.
Magnolia tripetala, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 48.

Very seldom found in Pennsylvania, nor does it attain a great size
here. Professor Sargent says that it is hardy in cultivation as far
north as New England. The branches are very irregular, with
leaves at the ends giving the appearance of an umbrella. Large
white flowers appear about May, making a very attractive tree. Its
propagation is similar to that of the cucumber tree.

TULIP-TREE, TULIP POPLAR, YELLOW POPLAR.
Liriodendron Tulipifera, L.

The tuliv-tree is one of the most magnificent of the forest trees
and its wood is valuable for many purposes. It is a fairly rapid
grower and 4s it is becoming very scarce its propagation should be
encouraged.

15

The fruit has a cone-like appearance, being made up of a number
of scales, on a common axis, from which they fall during winter.
Very few of these scales contain seeds and only about ten per cent. of
the seeds formed are good. Loudon said that the best cones are
found on the higher branches of aged trees. In autumn, as the seeds
nature, the fruit turns to a brownish color. The cones should be
wathered in October after the first few scales have dropped. Drying
them i an ordinary living room for a short time ought to be suffi-
cient to free the seeds from the scales. The seeds may be sown
broadcast, or in shallow furrows, in fall, or they may be kept in a
dry room until spring. Roll the beds after giving the seeds a slight
cover. Soft mold or wood and leaf ashes are good fertilizers for
them. In summer do not allow the beds to become too dry and give
the young plants some protection from the sun. The plants may re-
main in the seed beds for two years, to develop a good root system
before being planted permanently, or if they are wanted for orna-
mental purposes they may be transplanted and left two or more
years. After transplanting first time it is better to cut the stem off a
couple of inches above the ground, allowing a new stem to be formed.

Rich soil of coves and of cool slopes is its preference. It is known
to come up in old fields after an advance growth of sassafras or
locust, or with locust. Seedlings are plentiful in the forest near old
trees after a winter or spring fire has burned the layer of leaves
on the ground. It may be set out as the cucumber tree, with lo-

cust or with walnut, or with both. Trees are said to be raised easily
from cuttings.

BASSWOOD, AMERICAN LINDEN, LIME TREE, LIN.
Tilia Americana, L.

The linden has a one-seeded fruit which when it is matured in Sep-
tember is hard, hairy, gray and about the size of a pea. They should
be sown at once in the seed beds, or if kept over winter, should be
siratified with moist sand in a box which can be placed in well
drained ground. In either case a good percentage will come up the
first year, but if they have been kept dry over winter they are likely
to wait until the second year before germinating. They are very
slow growers from the seed and will have to remain in the nursery
for two, three, or four years, and perhaps more, before they will be
large enough to set out permanently. They may be then planted
with oak, sugar maple, white ash, etc. As with other trees, if the

16

plants are crooked, or too branchy, cut them off just above the
ground and allow a shoot to form. More rapid growth is obtained
from layers, so it is customary to cut off an old tree close to the
ground, and when a number of shoots have come up, to throw dirt
among them that they may take root for themselves. In one or two
years they may be cut off and used as plants. ‘Transplanting with
balls of dirt is recommended. It prefers a moist situation but will
grow on dry soil. Asa shade tree it is probably not surpassed.

WHITE BASSWOOD.

Tilia heterophylla, Vent.

The white basswood is more of a mountain tree than the Tilia
Americana. It is commonly found growing on the moist soil border-
ing mountain streams, however, it will thrive upon limestone soil, or
dry, gravelly and sandy soil, if moderately rich. The wood of this

tree is not unlike that of the other species of basswood and is sold -

as such. It can be propagated the same as the basswood above,
either from seed or from cuttings, the latter being, perhaps, pre-
ferable.

AMERICAN HOLLY.
Ilex opaca, Ait.

While the holly, under favorable conditions, becomes a tree of good
size, and is then valuable, it is not likely that, in this State at least,
it will ever be raised for other than ornamental purposes. The fruit
is a small red berry, maturing in autumn and remaining on ‘the tree
all winter. The berries may be gathered in December and at once

macerated in water. After the seeds have been thoroughly washed,

they should be spread on a cloth and dried, and then mixed with
sand and kept dry until needed for sowing in spring. Sow in fur-
rows ten to twelve inches apart. Cover seeds lightly with fine earth
and rollit. A layer of leaves may then cover the bed which will per-
haps hasten germination. The seeds are slow to germinate and may
not come up until the second year. The plants should be carefully
transplanted every two years until set out finally. It seems to prefer
the edge of streams or Swamps, under other trees, but it will grow on
higher ground. It makes a close hedge and requires little care when
once started. It is also propagated by cuttings.

17

OHIO BUCKEYE, FETID BUCKEYE.
Aesculus glabra; Willd.

The wood of ‘this tree is used for pulp wood and for the manu-
facture of light wooden articles. Although there are other rapid
growers, the wood of which is better in quality and may take the
place of the buckeye, yet the facility with which it can be raised from
seed together with its rapid growth may recommend it.

The fruit resembles the common horse-chestnut but is prickly
when young. It matures in autumn and the seeds may be gathered
from under the old tree after the first frost. They should be planted
at once, either where they are to remain, say two or three feet apart
each way, or they may be planted in seed beds, in rows eighteen to
twenty-four inches apart and twelve to fourteen inches in the row.
Cover a little more than the thickness of the seed, unless the beds are
rolled. In one year the plants may be set out. They prefer moist
soil, as along the banks of rivers, but will do well in soil that it is not
exceedingly dry. ;

SWEET BUCKEYE.
Aesculus flava, Ait.
Aesculus octandra, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 401.

The tree has a smooth fruit, has the same uses as the Ohio buckeye
and may be propagated in the same manner: EHither-may be used as
a shade tree, although the European horse-chestnut is superior and
more frequently used for that purpose.

SUGAR MAPLE.
Acer saccharinum, Wang.
Acer Saccharum, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 398.
In the Forestry Report for this State issued in 1895, it is stated
that this is one of the largest and perhaps one of the commonest trees
in the State. It is apparent therefore that conditions here are

favorable to its growth. It is a valuable tree and will grow in al-
most any locality.

2

18

The seeds, in samaras or keys about an inch long, are matured in
September. They may be picked from the tree, ora little later swept
together under the tree, as they are usually very plentiful. They
are very sensitive to being dried out and therefore should be sown
at once. The rows should be about eight inches apart and the seeds
six inches apart in the rows. A very light cover of earth is suffi-
cient, but put a layer of leaves over the beds for the winter. The
seeds may be kept over winter if stratified with sand just slightly
moistened, then sown early in spring. During the first season the
young plants will need shade. They may remain in the seed beds
two years and then be set out permanently at three, four or five foot
distances. Prune off any branches that may have formed. The
sugar maple has been planted in pure plantations and also in mix-
ture with white ash, walnut, oak, birch and others. It is among the
best of the trees suitable for street planting.

What is known as black sugar maple is a variety of Acer sacchar-
inum and is propagated in the same manner.

The striped maple (Acer Pennsylvanicum, L.), so called from the
striped appearance of its bark, is of little importance except as an
ornamental tree. Its seeds ripen in September and may be raised
as the above. It is found in cool ravines and endures considerable
shade.

SILVER MAPLE, WHITE OR SOFT MAPLE.
Acer dasycarpum, Ehrh.
Acer saccharinum, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 397.

This is perhaps the most rapid grower among the maples, and it
is adapted to any soil, but it is of very little value. The keys are
large, veiny and diverging. The seeds ripen early in summer, in May
or June. They may be swept up under the trees and should be sown
at once. If planted in moist beds and given a light cover of earth
it will not be long before the young plants put in an appearance.
Sow the seeds in rows about twelve inches apart and in distances of
eight inches in the row. If started in good soil one year will be suffi-
cient time in the nursery, but if in poor soil they will take two years
to grow to a size suitable for planting. These plants are apt to
branch young, so when planting, if they are branchy or crooked, cut
them off just above the ground. The sprout that will be formed will
make up for the growth that has been lost.

19

RED MAPLE, SWAMP ‘MAPLE.
Acer rubrum, L.

The red maple is a more valuable tree than the soft maple and as
it thrives in swamps (although not confined to them) which are rarely
of any use, there is no reason why it should not be raised. The seeds
ripen in May or June and perhaps can best be picked from the tree.
They should be planted at once in moist soil, as with the soft maple.
The first year they grow slowly and may have to remain in the seed
bed two years. Pruning with these, too, may be necessary. Where
the soil is good it makes a beautiful shade tree.

BOX ELDER, ASH-LEAVED MAPLE.
Negundo aceroides, Moench.
Acer Negundo, L. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 400.

In wooded sections of the country this tree is of little value, but
in the plains it serves as a splendid “nurse tree” to other more use-
ful species. It is a rapid grower and will thrive on any soil, hence,
where a quick protection to the soil, or a quick shade is wanted, there
is nothing better; for instance, for the protection of white pine seed-
lings on a dry southern slope. It is short lived and when planted
with other trees affords an early return in the way of fire wood. The
seeds are ripe in September and should be sown at once. In one
year the seedlings can be planted out. With conifers, box elder
may be planted in every other row at four foot distances, the rows be-
ing three feet apart. With broad-leaved species every third row
would be sufficient.

STAGHORN SUMACH.
Rhus typhina, L.
Rhus hirta, (L.) Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 386.

Mostly a shrub but at times reaches the dimensions of a small
tree. The wood has a beautiful grain and will take a polish, making
it suitable for panels, ete. The fruit (small, hard, strong seeds) is com-
pacted into an irregular, brown or scarlet mass. The seeds mature

20

about October, after which they may be gathered and sown at once,
or kept in a dry, cold place until spring. The sumach is found in
thickets, both on the borders of streams and on dry hill sides; it
seems to grow more rapidly, however, on the moist soil and usually
produces there a stem more or less free of branches.

LOCUST TREE, BLACK LOCUST, YELLOW LOCUST.
Robinia Pseudacacia, L.

The locust has many qualities that recommend it to the tree
planter. The foliage and blossoms make it suitable for a shade tree,
especially along country roads. It is a rapid grower and can be re-
produced easily from seeds or from root suckers. It will grow on
any soil that is not wet, and, like all leguminous plants, it improves
the soil on which it grows. Moreover the wood is strong and of
great durability. Yellow locust wood is supposed to be more valu-
able than white locust wood, but both come from this species.

The fruit, a pod enclosing several seeds, is matured in September
and may be gathered from the tree any time after that, for frequently
they remain on the tree all winter. The seeds may be threshed out
with a flail and cleansed by running them through a winnowing ma-
chine. Field mice are fond of them, consequently it is best to keep
them for spring planting, which is easily done if they are kept ina
cool, dry atmosphere. Before planting, put them into scalding water
and remove them as soon as they swell up. Repeat the operation
until all are ready, then plant at once in the seed bed, about six
inches apart each way. The young plants may remain in the beds
one or two years when they may be set out permanently at four foot
distances. At first sight of the borer’s work cut off the branch or
the whole stem and burn it. If branchy when transplanted prun-
ing will be necessary. It may be planted by itself or mixed with
other species, as yellow poplar, catalpa, walnut, ete.

JUDAS TREE, RED BUD.
Cercis Canadensis, L.

Hardly more than a shrub. Its wood is seldom if ever used. In
spring the bush is aflame with red flowers, making it worthy of a
place on the lawn. The fruit is a legume, or pod, ripening in autumn.

21

These may be gathered and kept until spring, the seeds to be sown
early. It does not seem to be particular as to soil and may be
planted under other trees or shrubs. In growth it is fairly rapid.

KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE, COFFEE NUT.
Gymnocladus Canadensis, Lam.
Gymnocladus dioica, (L.) Koch. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 261.

Very similar to the locust in qualities and requirements. Like all
other broad-leaved species it reaches its best development on moist,
rich soil. The seeds mature in October and may be taken from the
pods readily after a severe frost, or the pods may be gathered and
macerated in warm water. Dry the seeds and treat as locust seeds.
The growth is rapid, so close sowing is not necessary, neither is the
tree so apt to branch as the locust.

HONEY-LOCUST.
Gleditschia triacanthos, L.

This tree as yet has very little value other than as an ornamental
tree. It requires rich soil. The pods may be gathered in Septem-
ber or October and macerated in water until the seeds can be washed
clean. They can be treated then as those of the locust and coffee
tree. The taproot should be cut off before transplanting.

WILD CHERRY, WILD BLACK CHERRY.
Prunus serotina, Ehrh.

A neglected but valuable tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, not
particular in regard to soil, and furnishes a fine wood for the manu-
facture of furniture. The fruit is matured in August. It can then be
gathered from the tree and macerated in water until the stones can
be cleaned. These may be sown at once, but it is well to preserve
them until spring by mixing them with sand and placing the box
either in a dry, cool cellar or in the ground where the stones can be

22

frozen. They must not be allowed to become moist. Sow in fur-
rows six to eight inches apart and two or three inches in a furrow.
They will be of sufficient size in two years to be moved safely. They
may then be mixed with seedlings of ash, elm, oak, pine, spruce, ete.,
at four foot distances.

Prunus Pennsylvaniaca, L. fil., or the fire cherry, is of little value
other than as a nurse tree to better and weaker species. It may be
used as the box elder. Propagation is the same as for the black
cherry. The fruit is ripe in July.

fo
ed

AMERICAN CRAB-APPILE.
Pyrus coronaria, L.
Malus coronaria, (L.) Mill. See Britton & Brown, Vol, II, p. 235.

The tree never reaches a very great size and its wood is of little
value except for tool handles or turnery work. As an ornamental
tree, however, it is worth some consideration. Its flowers are numer-
ous, fragrant and of delicate tints. The fruit matures late in fall,
when it may be gathered and macerated in water in order to obtain
the seeds. Several years in the nursery may be required before the
seedlings will be large enough to be planted out with safety. Prun-
ing may be necessary in order to avoid a straggling form. It is
usually found in rather moist soil.

MOUNTAIN ASH.
Pyrus Americana, DC.
Sorbus Americanus, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 288.

Of no value other than as an ornamental tree. It grows both on
highlands and on lowlands. The berry-like fruit grows in clusters
and matures about October. The seeds may be obtained by macera-
tion, and after being dried on a cloth should be kept in a dry, cool
place for spring planting. Frequent transplanting before setting
out permanently will no doubt secure the best results for ornamental
use.

Ss

23
COCKSPUR THORN.
Crataegus Crus-galli, L.

Except for hedges the cockspur thorn is little used. It is occa-
sionally found as a lawn tree because of its white flowers, which ap-
pear in June. The fruit matures in October. The seeds may be ob-
tained by maceration and can be sown at once or kept for spring
sowing.

JUNE BERRY, SHAD BUSH, SERVICE BERRY.
Amelanchier Canadensis, T. & G.

Another tree, more often a shrub, which is more ornamental than
useful. It is among the first of our trees to bloom in spring and is
very attractive because of its many white flowers. The fruit matures
in June or July and is then edible. The seeds are obtained by mac-
eration and should be sown at once. It has been found on soil vary-
ing from dry “barrens” to the wet borders of swamps.

GUM, SWEET-GUM, BILSTED.
Liquidambar Styracifiua, L.

A tree that grows to large size and furnishes a fine grained lumber
suitable for veneer and interior finishing. The fruit, a ball with
rough projections, matures in autumn, when the seeds drop out.
They may be gathered in September or October and sown at once in
the seed beds, either scattered thinly broadcast, or in furrows four to
six inches apart. Give them a light cover of soil and as with other
seeds sown in fall, spread leaves over the beds to protect them dur-
ing the winter. Two years may be required to allow the seedlings
to become of sufficient size to transplant. They may be set in almost
any soil, but because of their tendency to branch set the plants not
more than three feet apart each way. It presents a beautiful ap-
pearance in autumn and is suitable for a lawn tree.

DOGWOOD, FLOWERING DOGWOOD, BOXWOOD.
Cornus florida, L.

As the name implies the tree is conspicuous for its flowers. Its
autumn colors are just as attractive, hence as an ornamental tree
it is well worth consideration. In order to secure a straight trunk,
and a regular shape, plant the young tree, then when it has a year to
“root itself” fairly, cut the stem off (in spring or early summer) close

to the ground. It will then produce several shoots. Select the one

24

you prefer and remove the rest. As this retained shoot grows and
makes its branches, keep cutting off the lower ones until the stem
is as high as you desire, after which it may be trusted to care for
itself. It rarely attains great size but the wood is valuable for tool
handles, mallets, etc., where it will undergo hard usage. As a
forest tree it is scarcely better than a weed, permitting no other
species to get a start beneath its shade. The fruit is a small, red
berry maturing in September. The berries may be picked from the
tree and macerated until the pulp can be removed from the seeds.
Mix these with damp sand and place in well drained ground over
winter. Plant early in spring. During summer protect from the
hot sun. After two years the plants may be set out, either in the
open or under the shade of other trees.

The alternate-leaved dogwood, having a “blue-black” berry, is of
little value even as an ornamental tree.

TUPELO, PEPPERIDGE, BLACK OR SOUR GUM.
Nyssa sylvatica, Marsh.

Black gum, in favored localities, often grows to a large size. It
prefers damp, rich soils but will grow in dry situations. It may be
used for landscape work. The wood is hard to split and is used
where such characteristic is needed. The fruit ripens in Septem-
ber and may be picked from the tree. Macerate in warm water until
the seed or stone is clean. ‘Mix with damp sand and place in ground
well protected from moisture. In spring sow about two inches apart
in rows. Keep the beds moist. In two years the plants may be
moved and should be set two to three feet apart. They are, other-
wise, likely to branch.

LAUREL, MOUNTAIN LAUREL, CALICO-BUSH.
Kalmia latifolia, L.
RHODODENDRON, ROSE-BAY, GREAT LAUREL.
Rhododendron maximun, L.

These two shrubs are of little value other than for ornamental
use. They are comparatively easy to transplant from the woods.
The young plants should be taken up in early spring with consider-
able dirt to the roots. After transplanting pack a thick layer of
leaves about the foot of the shrub and keep them moist until a good
erowth is evident. Propagation from seed is said to be difficult and
expensive. For planting in open grounds it is best to secure speci-
mens which have grown in open grounds.

bo
N

PERSIMMON.
Diospyros Virginiana, L,

This tree is more valuable for its fruit than for any other purpose.
The heartwood, which takes almost a century to form, is very dark.
The wood’s “capacity for enduring friction is phenomenal.” The
fruit is mature in autumn and may be picked from the ground under
the trees after several frosts. Remove the pulp from the seeds, mix
them with moist sand and preserve in a cool cellar. Sow in rows in
spring and, as with all slow growing species especially, cultivate well.
In two years they may be removed from the seed bed. It grows on
light, sandy soil or in bottom land. Occasionally it is found grow-
ing on high dry ground. In parts of the United States persimmon cul-
ture has become quite common and several improved varieties of the
fruit are already produced.

WHITE ASH.
Fraxinus Americana, L.

A magnificent and valuable forest tree. Its wood is extensively
used in the manufacture of furniture, wagons, farming implements
and oars. It does not seem to be particular as to location, but if the
wood of the more rapid growing trees is best, then moderately rich
soil where the roots can get plenty of moisture is preferred, as along
streams. The fruit is winged and matures in August or September.
It should be sown broadcast at once in well raked beds. During
the first summer provide shade for it and, if necessary, moisture.
The seedlings may be removed when one year old. If the taproot
has not been retarded it is better to cut it off than ‘to run the risk
of turning the growing end up when planting. It may be mixed with
walnut, oak, maple, hickory, etc., at three or four foot distances.

The green ash and red ash are somewhat inferior to the white
ash in respect to their timber qualities. If cultivated at all, they
may be propagated in the same manner as the white ash.

BLACK ASH, HOOP ASH.
Fraxinus sambucifolia, Lam.
Fraxinus nigra, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 602.

The black ash, growing in wet and swampy soils, although capable
of growing on dry soils, is used very much for hoops, basket weaving
and interior finishing. Its seeds ripen several weeks later than those
of the white ash but are treated in a like manner,

CATALPA, BEAN TREE, INDIAN BEAN, CIGAR TREE.
Catalpa bignonioides, Walt.
Catalpa Catalpa, (L.) Karst. See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 199.

A tree to which a great deal of attention has been called of late.
It is a rapid grewer on almost any soil, producing, in a very short
time, stems large enough for railroad ties or even telegraph or tele-
phone poles. The fruit is a pod enclosing numerous small winged
seeds. These pods remain on the trees during winter and may be
gathered any time after October. Remove the seeds and keep in a
cool, dry atmosphere until the ground can be worked in spring. Sow
the seeds broadcast and cover with fine dirt. By the next spring
the seedlings can be set out in rows. If by themselves, three or
four foot squares will make proper distances for planting. They may
be planted with locust, maple, ash, pine, etc. It has been recom-
mended to plant them in alternate rows with field corn. This will
afford some cultivation after the plants have been set out. White
pine might then be set along the corn rows after one or two crops
have been removed. If any damage comes to the young plant, cut
it off at the ground, for as long as the root is healthy a sprout will
soon come up which will probably produce a better tree than the
seedling stems. This indeed, is the best way to secure a trunk long
enough and straight enough for a telegraph pole. Cuttings may
be used for propagation. The wood, whilst it resists decay in the
ground, appears to lack strength sufficient for a good railroad tie.

WESTERN CATALPA.
Catalpa speciosa, Warder.

It is said that the wood of this species is more durable in contact
with the ground than that of the Catalpa above mentioned. Asarule
it produces straighter stems and is freer from branches. The growth
is rapid in almost any soil, producing a good crop of telephone poles,
etc., in twenty-five years, or less. It can be propagated as the above,
either from seed, or from cuttings. Its value for railroad ties has
been greatly overestimated.

SASSAFRAS.
Sassafras officinale, Nees.
Sassafras Sassafras, (L.) Karst. .See Britton & Brown, Vol. II, p. 97. .

Although a rapid grower, the tree will hardly be planted much in
Pennsylvania because of its timber qualities. It is very frequently

27

found in old fields, preparing the soil for a more valuable species
and acting as a nurse to it. As such it may be used to advantage.
The fruit matures in September. The pulp must be washed from the
stone, which should be planted at once in rich, moist soil. Two
years will not be too long for the seedlings to remain under nursery
eare. After they have had a start in the plantation, yellow poplar,
sugar maple, white pine and perhaps hemlock might be mixed with it
in alternate rows. It sprouts readily and may be raised from
suckers or from bits of root.

SLIPPERY ELM, RED ELM, MOOSE ELM.
Ulmus fulva, Michx. |

A tree which is suitable to plant in wet locations, although it is
sometimes found on the hillsides. By some the wood is said to be
superior to that of the white elm. The fruit is mature in June. It
may be gathered from under the tree and sown at once in the nursery
beds. If they are dry, moisture should be applied to the beds artifi-
cially. Give protection during summer from the sun. If the moisture
has been sufficient, the plants may be set out that fall, but it may be
best to allow them to remain for another year. Fall transplanting is
preferred. It may be mixed with beech, oak, ash, or sugar maple.

WHITE ELM, WATER ELM, AMERICAN ELM.
Ulmus Americana, L.

The white elm rivals the sugar maple in size. Its wood is very
hard to split and is used where such resistance is necessary. It, too
prefers moist, rich soil, but will grow in other situations. The fruit
is mature in June and should be treated as that of the slippery elm.
It may be mixed with birch, beech or maple.

HACKBERRY, SUGAR BERRY.
Celtis occidentalis, L.

Although this tree reaches a fair size, its wood is of no practical
importance. The fruit is a small drupe, maturing in autumn. The

28

seeds may be obtained by. maceration and should be sown in moder-
ately moist beds at once. Two years are often required for the seeds
to germinate. The young seedlings should have some protection
from the sun for several seasons and their roots kept moist. They
may be propagated by cuttings.

OSAGE ORANGE, BOW WOOD, BOIS d@’ ARC.
Maclura aurantiaca, Nutt.
Toxylon pomiferum, Raf. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 529.

Another valuable but neglected tree. It is a rapid grower and
not particular in choice of soil. Its wood has been found to be very
valuable in the manufacture of wagon wheels, and has also been used
with good success as railroad ties. The fruit matures in October but
as it is frequently seedless, and as the tree is readily propagated from
cuttings, it may be cheapest to use the latter method. If seeds are
obtained after macerating the feuit, they should be kept in a cool, dry
atmosphere and sown in spring. The tree is frequently used for
hedges, when it needs considerable pruning. In plantations it
should be planted closely. It is not a native of Pennsylvania, but
is introduced from the southwest.

RED MULBERRY.
Morus rubra, L.

The fruit, resembling an elongated blackberry, is mature in July.
It should be picked from the tree and macerated in water, the seeds
cleaned and then kept in a cool, dry atmosphere until spring. Sow
thinly over the beds and cover with fine dirt. Keep the beds moist
and protect the young plants from the sun. After two seasons
growth they can safely be placed in the plantation. They endure
some shade so may be set among other trees. It prefers low, rich
soils.

BUTTONWOOD, SYCAMORE.
Platanus occidentalis, L.

A rapid grower, often reaching a very large size, and not particular
as to location. The wood, however, is of very little value, except in

29

the manufacture of tobacco boxes. The common “button balls” are
made up of a number of seeds which mature about October. Sow
them as soon as ripe, and cover lightly, or keep them dry over winter
and plant early in spring. The seedlings may be planted when one
year old:

BLACK WALNUT.
Juglans nigra, L.

A tree valuable both for its wood and its fruit. That it is almost
exterminated in Pennsylvania is well known and yet it is a fairly
rapid grower and readily propagated from seed. The nuts mature in
fall and after a slight frost may be picked up from under the old trees
in quantities. Where there is no serious danger from mice and
squirrels the nuts may be planted at once (after slightly bruising the
hull) in rows about a foot apart, and from four to six inches apart in
the row, for they branch early. To prevent the taproot from becom-
ing too long a close layer of stone may be laid before the nursery beds
are formed, or the plants may be started in boxes about six inches
deep, having holes in the bottom and sides to allow proper drainage.
Transplant when one year old. To keep the nuts over winter, re-
move the “hull” and mix them with moist sand and bury in the
ground. Plant as soon as taken up in the spring. If desired, the
nuts can be planted at once where the tree is intended to remain.
Locust, maple, beech, or catalpa could be mixed with it in the plan-
tation. It might be raised with field corn.

The white walnut or butternut, having an oblong, pointed nut, may
be raised in the same manner. It will grow on both high and low
ground, whereas the black walnut rarely does well in a dry situation.

SHELL-BARK, SHAG-BARK HICKORY.
Carya alba, Nutt.
Hicoria ovata, (Mill.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 485.

There are said to be nine species of hickory on the continent, but
there are only three that are of any importance to us. The shag-
bark, so called from the appearance of its bark, prefers rich, damp
soil and in such is a rapid grower. The fruit matures in October
and may then be gathered from under the trees. They should be
placed in moist sand and kept for spring planting. Because of the

50

taproot it may be best to plant at once permanently, and if possible
raise some field crop with the young plants. Make furrows about
three feet apart and drop the nuts about every half-foot. Weeds
will have to be kept down. If raised in a nursery, care will have to
be taken in transplanting, because of the long taproot. Cut off any
bruised or broken roots.

WHITE-HEART HICKORY, HICKORY, KING NUT, MOCKER
NUT.

Carya tomentosa, Nutt.
Hicoria alba, (L.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 486.

The young shoots of this tree are hairy; the nut angular and
pointed. It may be found more frequently and is perhaps the best of
the family from the standpoint of forestry because of its choosing the
poorer soils, although its slow growth is against it. It is raised as
the shag-bark hickory.

PIG NUT, BROOM HICKORY, SWITCH BUD HICKORY.
_ Carya porcina, Nutt.
Hicoria glabra, (Mill.) Britton. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 487.

The bark is furrowed on older trees; the fruit is thin shelled. The
wood rivals that of the shag-bark, said by some even to surpass it.
It will grow both in high and low situations, but in Pennsylvania at
least it prefers moist soil. It is also treated as the shag-bark
hickory.

BIRCHES.
Betula, L.

Of the five birches commonly found in this State all are more or
less valuable or worthy of cultivation. The fruit of the red or river
birch and of the canoe birch matures in summer, about June. The
small seeds should be removed from the cone-like fruit and sown
broadcast at once in moist beds. Of course the plants must be

ein Ab.

?

-

yaar ee ae

a

31

shaded, at least during the first season’s growth. They had better
remain in the seed beds for two years. The fruit of the three other
birches, black, yellow and white, matures in fall. Their seeds should
be kept in damp sand until spring. Sow as early as possible and
keep the beds moist during the summer, also shade the plants. In
one year these may be removed. Most of the birches will grow on
poor soil and may be used as nurse trees for more valuable broad-
leaved species. Conifers suffer from having their tender shoots
whipped off in a strong wind by the action of the slender stems of
these trees and consequently should not be planted with them.

SMOOTH ALDER.
Alnus serrulata, Willd.
Alnus rugosa, (Du Roi) K. Koch. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I,
p. 512.
Seldom if ever more than a shrub, but of value, especially for hold-

ing soil on banks of streams. The seeds should be picked in Octo-
ber and sown broadcast at once on fresh, sandy soil and covered -

_ lightly. Roll the beds and give a covering of leaves for the winter.

The seeds are frequently sown upon the snow. If seeds are pre-
served until spring, when they must be sown very early, keep them in
damp sand and in a cold place. Shade the beds during the summer.

IRON WOOD, HOP-HORNBEAM.
Ostrya Virginica, Willd.

A slow growing tree of the poorer soils. It is usually found in the
shade of oaks, maples and the larger trees. The fruit resembles
the hop. It matures in September. The nut-like seeds should be
sown at once and even then may not sprout until the year following.
It may be used to plant up blanks, or open places on rocky slopes.

WATER BEECH, HORN BEAM.
Carpinus Caroliniana, Walt.

Usually nothing more than a shrub, though sometimes becoming
a tree 25 feet high and a foot in diameter, growing along streams in
rich soil. The wood, similar to that of iron wood, is used for levers
and turnery work. The fruit matures in autumn and the nut-like
seeds should be sown at once in moist, sandy soil. Usually they will
not come up until the second year.

32

OAKS.
Quercus, L. :

The oaks may be divided into two general classes, namely the white
and the black oaks. The white oaks are those having leaves with
round lobes, not being bristle-pointed. The acorns ripen in one year
and are sweet to the taste. The black oaks are those the leaves of
which have bristle-pointed lobes. The acorns mature in the second
year and are bitter to the taste.

Of the first class there are in Pennsylvania, worthy of being cul-
tivated, the following:

White Oak. Quercus alba, L.

Post Oak. Quercus stellata, Wang. Quercus minor, (Marsh.)
Sarg. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 520.

Bur Oak. Quercus macrocarpa, Michx.

Swamp White Oak. Quercus bicolor, Willd. Quercus plata-
noides, (Lam.) Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 521.

Chestnut Oak. Quercus Prinus, L.

Yellow Oak. Quercus Muhlenbergii, Engelm. Quercus acumi-
nata. (Michx.) Sarg. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 522.

Those of the black oaks are:

Red Oak. Quercus rubra, L.

Scarlet Oak. Quercus coccinea, Wang.

Black Oak. Quercus tinctoria, Bartram. Quercus velutina, Lam.
See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 517.

Pin Oak. Quercus palustris, Du Roi.

Spanish Oak. Quercus faleata, Michx. Quercus digitata, (Marsh.)
Sudw. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 518.

All of the oaks will grow on poor soil, but since rapid growth of
oak produces better wood the better part of soil allotted to forest
should be given to them. The acorns mature in fall and may easily
be gathered from under the old trees. Those of the black oak class
may be sown at once, because of their bulkiness for keeping and be-
cause there is no danger from rodents. Those of the white oaks,
while they lose their power of germination very soon, but because
of the danger from rodents, should be kept until spring in damp sand
and in a cool room, or buried with sand in a well drained place. The
plants have long taproots and some suggest that the acorns be sown
at once in the plantation where the seedlings are to remain. If so-
done, plough shallow furrows every three feet apart and drop the
acorns at a distance of every two or three inches in the furrow. For

33

several years the seedlings may be cultivated as convenient. If sown
in ‘beds scatter from three to four hundred acorns on a bed four
_feet each way. In one year the plants may be removed and set one
foot apart in rows three feet from each other.

CHESTNUT.
Castanea sativa, Mill., var. Americana, Watts. & Coult.

Castanea dentata, (Marsh.) Borkh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I,
p. 515.

In the Forestry Report issued by this State in 1895 the following
reasons are given for the cultivation of chestnut:

“1. It will grow on almost any kind of soil, from a river flat to a
mountain top, although it is not at its best on limestone soils.

“2. It grows with great rapidity.

“3. When cut it reproduces a valuable coppice growth in a few
years.

“4, Its product, wood and fruit, will always be in demand.

“5. There will be an increasing demand for it in the future be-
cause of the tannin which it contains.”

The fruit matures in October, being released from the burs by the
first frost. The chestnuts may be sown at once, which is preferable,
or they may be mixed in moist sand and buried until spring. Have
the soil well prepared. Some sand mixed in the beds will be good.
Shade the seedlings during summer. Set out as the oaks, in rows”
three feet apart and at a distance of one foot from each other in the
row. Alternate rows may be set with white pine, or in order to
afford cultivation corn might be planted in alternate rows.

BEECH.
Fagus ferruginea, Ait.
Fagus Americana, Sweet. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 514.

The beech is a tree which should be planted in soil where its roots
can get plenty of moisture. The fruit is mature in October and may
be gathered from under the old trees. Sow in furrows six inches

o4

apart, the seeds touching each other in the furrows. Shade well. If
possible sow the seeds broadcast within an open pine woods, after
having raked off the needles. Cover the seeds lightly. The plants
may be set out at from two to five years old. It endures shade and
may be set under oak, pine, ete.

WILLOWS.
Salix, L.

All of the willows are so easily propagated from cuttings that it
is not necessary to waste time by trying to raise them from seed.
Last year’s shoots can be cut and buried over winter. In spring take
an iron bar and make a hole large enough for the cutting to go in.
Leave one bud above ground and pack the soil firmly about the re-
maining part of the cutting.

ASPEN, QUAKING ASP.
Populus tremuloides, Michx.

The poplars are rapid growers. They are found usually along
hanks of streams, but also on higher ground. In the west the aspen
is found coming up on land that has been cleared of other trees, either
by “slashings” or by fires. There it prepares the soil for better
species, as for instance white pine, and it protects the young plants.
The fruit ripens in May or June. The seed is small and “cottony.”
It should be sown at once in a cool situation and covered lightly.
When one or two years old set out in a plantation, as close as con-
venient. It may branch when young but permits pruning. It may
be raised easily from cuttings.

COTTONWOOD, CAROLINA POPLAR.
Populus monilifera, Ait.
Populus deltoides, Marsh. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 493. ~

A tree whose wood is being extensively used for paper pulp. It
is a rapid grower and adapts itself easily to almost any soil. The
most vigorous growth, however, is found on rather moist soil. Thirty

35

cords of pulp wood to the acre, under average circumstances, might
be expected after fifteen or twenty-five years. The tree is frequently
found here as a shade tree. The seeds mature in July and should be
sown at once. The seed beds should be kept moist. By the next fall
seedlings could be set out in the plantation at four or five foot dis-
tances from each other. It will make a good nurse tree for white
pine, if mixed with it. The quickest and cheapest method of propa-
gation is from cuttings.

WHITE PINE.
Pinus Strobus, L.

It is not necessary to siate the uses of this tree nor should it be
necessary to state that it ought to be cultivated extensively. Itisa
rapid grower and prefers poor soil, yields early returns and is very
valuable when mature—what more is wanted? The seeds mature
in fall of second year and as soon as the cones become pitchy (in
August or September) pick them and keep in ordinary living room
or some other dry place during winter in bags or on a slat frame,
having something to catch the seeds as they fall from the cones.
Seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit is sufficient heat to open the cones
that the seeds may drop out. Sow broadcast early in spring. Cover
lightly and roll the beds. They must be protected from the sun in
summer. If the beds become very wet sprinkle dry sand over them
as soon as possible. “Damping off” is said to be prevented in this
way. If one year old plants are not used in the plantation they had
better be transplanted to nursery rows, the rows six inches apart
and plants about two inches apart in the rows. During the winter
cover with leaves and transplant in spring. Two year old plants
may be used safely. If possible have some nurse tree two or three
years in advance of the pine, or a rapid grower, set in alternate rows,
or two rows of pine to one of the other. Three feet in the row is
sufficient. It is worthy of a place as an ornamental tree.

PITCH PINE, YELLOW PINE, JACK PINE.
Pinus rigida, Miller.

This pine has needles in threes. The cones take two or three
years to mature, They should be gathered and treated as white

36

pine. With all pines the seeds must be kept dry during the winter.
The oil in them will preserve them so there is very little danger of
their losing the power of germination for several years if they are not
exposed to moisture. Sow the seeds broadcast in sandy beds in
spring. Seedlings can be set out in spring when two years old.
They are very sensitive to being transplanted so their roots should
be carefully protected. It grows where the soil is extremeiy poor,
but slowly.

SPRUCE PINE, YELLOW PINE.
Pinus mitis, Michx.
Pinus echinata, Mill. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 52.

Leaves usually in pairs. The cones are somewhat longer than
those of the pitch pine but not so large in diameter, proportionally,
They mature in one season. Formerly there was considerable yel-
low pine in this State but it has become very scarce. The tree
reaches a large size and its wood is valuable. It is not hard to raise
from seeds, which should be treated as those of the other pines. It
is a fairly rapid grower and is adapted to dry, sandy soil and to poor
slopes.

The red or Norway pine (Pinus resinosa) may be propagated as
easily from seed as the other pines.

RED SPRUCE.
Picea nigra, var. rubra, Engelm.
Picea rubra, (Lamb.) Link. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 55.

A tree of the highest ridges and cool northern slopes. The cones
are small and unusually plentiful. They may be gathered any time
after October. By heating the cones some, the seeds will readily
fall from the scales. They should be sown in early spring in soil
somewhat sandy. Cover the seeds lightly and roll the beds. Shade
the seedlings well and do not Jet the beds become too dry. The
plants may be put in the plantation when two years old or they may
be transplanted to nursery rows and set out when four years old.
They have shallow roots and may be used on rocky slopes. In regu-
lar plantations three feet is the proper distance at which the plants
should stand from each other.

eo
+)

BLACK SPRUCE.
Picea nigra, Link.
Picea mariana, (Mill.) B.S. P. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 55.

Somewhat smaller than the red spruce. It prefers “sphagnum-
covered swamps.” Propagation is same as for the red spruce.

HEMLOCK, HEMLOCK-SPRUCE.
Tsuga Canadensis, Carr.

The cones of the hemlock mature in one year. They are small and
egg-shaped, drooping from little foot stalks when ripe. Gather in
October. After the seeds have been removed from the cones, keep
them in a dry, cool room until spring. Sow broadcast in well pre-
pared beds. Rotten wood mixed with the soil will no doubt insure
better success. Moisture and shade are necessary for the young
plants. In two years they may be set out finally or transplanted
and set out when four years old. While the tree is found in moist
and cool places it seems to do well in other situations. The hemlock
is, when young, perhaps the slowest grower of all our forest trees and
will be the hardest to perpetuate as a forest tree.

BALSAM FIR, BALM OF GILEAD FIR.
Abies balsamea, Miller.

Frequently found in the northern and colder parts of the State.
It makes a fairly rapid growth in well drained soil and can be used
for planting along roads or walks. The cones may be gathered in
autumn and dried slightly. The scales of the cones will have to be
separated from the seeds. They can then be treated as those of the
black spruce.

LARCH, TAMARACK, HACKMATACK.
Larix Americana, Michx.
Larix laricina, (Du Roi) Koch. See Britton & Brown, Vol. I, p. 54.

The tamarack is a northern tree and is found only in the cooler
parts of the State. While it may be grown on dry soil it prefers and

38

is usually found in cool swamps. It is a valuable tree and is said to
be raised easily from seeds. The small cones mature in September
and may then be gathered from the trees. Drying the cones will re-
lease the seeds which may be kept in a cool dry place until spring.
Sow thinly over the beds and press the seeds into the ground, giving
them a slight cover. Protect well during summer. The next fall
they may be easily planted out at about five foot distances. Their
growth is fairly rapid.

ARBOR VITAE.
Thuya occidentalis, L.

A tree that is of more value perhaps as an ornament than as a
tree for forestry purposes, in this State. The stems are used for
poles and posts. The cones mature in September or October. It is
grown easily from seeds if treated as the other conifers. Two years
in the nursery beds is sufficient for the young plants. They may then
be placed in the plantation. It occurs naturally, but sparingly in
this State.

CEDAR, RED CEDAR, SAVIN.
Juniperus Virginiana, L.

Very common throughout the State, but never reaching a very
large size. Itisa slow grower. The fruit is a berry made up of sev-
eral fleshy scales enclosing two or three seeds. The berries may be
gathered in November. They should be macerated in warm water
or put in strong lye made from wood ashes for several days until the
seeds can be washed clean. Keep the seeds dry and cool and sow
early in spring. Cover the beds with leaves as it is likely that the
plants will not come up until the next year. They may be set out
after two years, or transplanted when four or five years old. Set
at three feet from each other. This tree is very valuable for fence
posts.

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