COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT:

Rabbit Culture —

BY
THE LATE W. F. ROTH, M. D.
AND
} CHARLES T. CORNMAN

REVISED BY
C. R. DEARDORFF

The Standards contained herein have been revised to conform, in
point valuations, to the latest official Standards, as adopted by the lead-
ing pet stock associations. The word descriptions used in the first
edition of this work have been adopted by the net stock organizations
with but slight changes in wording and arrangement, without altering
the meaning or application, hence, no change in that respect necessary,
except to add description of new varieties, thus bringing this edition
down-to-date in every particular.

Copyright 1914—1916—1918
By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO.
Sellersville, Pa.

Fourth Edition—Revised and Up-To-Date ea)
Copyright 1919

By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO.
Sellersville, Pa.

DEL -3 1919

Printed by the
POULTRY ITEM PRESS
Sellersville, Pa.

OCLAS86811

a Index to Articles
ts)
NUMER cos 5 chalet accel vele RRP ee ete Bev solctie s'2 6, uae (Vella: avis. <- 5
To our Friends and Readers, Old and New ............... 8
SPT EMETL MO TILULOS tc tec ac ect erer a camer eps nae cial eh eit eles Socks) 9
MEME TIeS 101 (MOMESUIG HINADIOUUS 9. midi ele ssisc¥e icra 2) v:cMers fe stencils elesaynns 14
Teme GIA iE Hapa niare fee asks suche. po Saaarn is ha ane a ee bese, 14
a OG Ce as ee ee ec eee ea a 20
} Mara TOLL Mn PNR ree a eh Lipase hans Gone eiete) caste See IM el Sie we mia Wows ieee 20
EN ee 1 ra) hla wipe lelplo ale gin ols oysics,e wejehe ww fe! eke 24
MEE yc, SEG RCs ice: AK. So als aah e's eo vara arene erals o,0%0 2)
REE eee tas CE tet cia, Mancpte ky si¥ 8) mig ial's Bua a8 8 34
Silver Fawn, Silver Brown and Silver Blue ........... 37
RUM MaDe Per d Gro act Sein Shits bbokiv ws ie 4-4 ba eles waa aot ae « 38
EE ot ca (hors Ae A OOS otek aide aR Ee sll 39
RAE Ss Hee ES oe Scns Gee sha sein crete oie xrsnarepersie enokele 40
NRMCRIN EE GANT oar Src vss kee widls MOT sliems8, Sd covis od ER See ae 41
SS gos ee a EA care tah Lat eel ea 42
MRE 2 ec", occa ©,» selken 6 xpetieca: x! since cane ate aes 42
Pama ASIC: 0.05555 46ce 4A ke ese BOO ee ee ee 43
SG ee hn nln at Theo, cue aE Lae ee SS ee 43
Meee an a ee ae ee 44
Erevan sii GilaltSasas Bete ders cca cue ee sce Oteys ee 50
PIM BOOLOTEG: GiaMuS: ra, .o Ae a seiclat a nels sss we setae eee 51
Rental. SHGtved.GlaNts ws. ae ueie ce es wc es wade e ee 51
Reenter Ge IATILS So sca ate aie Ree EUR ks oe Od De Mo 53
EEA rat REGS... ss vee eemeneie: S's. ares ac, eke 53
eMC AACUEC.S go. cs 5 ds wo ole aophk bs REET) « ss Cn a tee ee 57
OE EMPL 100. os, 6 co's 2 w 02 0 0 ts oreo ne a 80
Breeding, Building Up a Strain and Inbreeding ........... 81
SR tees eee ee we ie Go ee cs socio Oe ee 86
ES er ee Re TS 87
PRE ace fe Ae te ee Sask, a de 91
PTE, et ck sk eS wh eas ss vo 96
Wott ee ge ee er 102
iP Separation dow Room 6... ...... ¢... i. eee 105
The Rabbit Hospital and Medicine, Ghest ................ 108
molments\:of Habpits? g2:....<...... SS eee 112
SeeDALON . ces oe em ed. so ee 115
meramampthe SKS) vceee ahah tick 6. +. 60k RE id 116
PEPEIVOGS ... cee Path en a. « 3 1 ee kena S 119
Geemerectand Registrations se. 7.. 2 oo 2s deepens ha MOS 120
Condensed Information and Rules for the Rabbitry ....... 122

emerson for the Table. 22.22. bese free ee oe 125

Index to Illustrations

Portrait of C: BR: Deardorff’.:.....5....:3s+e.0en ee 8
Emglish Lop, Colored: . o.as cc. cus oe 00 3 «sje 00 oe als ee £3
PN LOD. ees sass as Bae tlk ce hes xs 15
Black.and White Lop: . .cecsen ii sucdeles ase s+ sone nn 16.
Real Dately 4.65 od ils sete tie meade aye meta wow aes » Cee 22
WEMELS ADGORG Cay iie ocs oc.e es Dobe teen a eR niin oe 25
Biack and "White Angora aicvs/or <:s:0 coke oad au tie oa Ne ee alee 26
ERAS VAD: 0s gs salen POU REESE ee Ole dk al ka nn 31
Trio of High ‘Class: Himalayaria. . ccc. os fie ae ee ae 32
Silver Grey ocd Sede d soa hee eee ene pees a3 35
Ideal Sinselish : . sf05.0 < f 5. algacese sale ese a eae ants ce 35
Bong ash ois. sin one Soy vs eel bee ite Ee ee 36
Steel Grey Flemish Giant . 2.5 0.0. J sss. cas 5 ose 45
A Good ‘Steel Flemish Doe: ~... 2.4.3. 020 cnx «ys. se eee oe bas
American Spotted | 3... /.350s 0% + eee ean n as 3 oes che 52
A. Prize Winning New Zealand... 22.0.5... <0» % ssi eee 55
Another Prize Winning New Zealand ...............---.+- 56
Good - Belgian Hare Doe .. 2.0.5.0 s0 sss cy pee ereO Gene 56
Idea]: Belo ian Heer: «.. <.c).c'si dlrs ag ww gist» neta ered nae 65
A: Mother Do¢ and Her Family it. ei baccnmens ys « eee 66
Armerican ‘SPOR: . . . 25's siuacstiue ericjew= 6s 96 9s Se aes hn 79
Bigck Gish sya... io KeliSaie yy eekee be ees op ee 85
Binglish sya s ska cv luwrs Cesc kts © cg bc area ee 86
Line. Breeding Oia tb) viec-ay. scm howls 0a, osha a sid ec ats <n 83
Hutches | - i. Se aeicaeass Mo cas ne Sa ek os oe ee 92-100
Pur. Caps . ss cdperee pitts eitale tei eceahidope¥ oes Pee = de nnn 117
An Ideal Outdoor “HCH sus cia cca 0's,5 0 0 oss) en 118
Inside Hutches: 2. hve inaiiee oc oe d s.0'e.s © satan eee, 121
Black, Giant... . : oe vsenmmetarsins «sue fee aces) <0 6 copie ne 124

Foreword

R. W. F. ROTH died September 3, 1911. At the time of
D his death he was under contract with the Poultry Item,
of Sellersville, Pa., to write a brochure on rabbits. The
manuscript in an unfinished condition passed into our hands after
his demise. The fact that Dr. Roth was not permitted to finish
this work is one deeply to be regretted. He stood out as the
greatest authority on this subject the United States has yet pro-
duced. It was his desire to erect this as a monument that would
stand the test of time, but we have here another illustration of
how man proposes and God disposes.

The intent of this brochure is to present the rabbit as a
Fancy; an industry of utility value. This means its successful
breeding for profitable and useful purposes as a fancy and for
food.

It was not any fault of the rabbit that the “boom” some
years back fell flat; but it was the fault of a false understanding
of a venture of this sort by a “syndicate” of indiscreet, if not
dishonest, promoters. The country was not yet ripe for the re-
cognition by rush methods of an industry both new and foreign;
and if anything, the hasty, vivid, and glaring claims were too
palpably overwrought for intelligent absorption by a large and
otherwise preoccupied community. America was too long and
wide of expanse, with too well supplied a market of all foods
which were then yet too honestly placed on the consumer’s table,
for him to realize that the rabbit was an actual necessity. *n
fact, he didn’t need it. If he desired “rabbit,’”’ which was herevo-
fore considered more a game than domestic food, the woods, fields
and prairies were full of it. But things are different now. In
the last decade the wild animal has become decidedly scarce;
poultry is kept at a continual advance and almost prohibitive
price, and those manipulating other food stuffs have made nu-
merous products very close to a luxury, notably the meats. Nor
is our population decreasing among any class except the “400”
and food we must have. The necessity for food at more reason-
able prices becomes more apparent every day by reason of the
present prices being entirely inconsistent with the wage of the
moderate working class—that class which needs most at all
times. This necessity has even foreed itself vaguely upon the
dim vision of “statesmen” occupying the State Legislative chairs
to the extent that the 1907 Legislature of Pennsylvania enacted a
law permitting the trading in slaughtered Belgians on the same

footing as fowls in the open market the year round. We should
all be grateful for this act, for it is largely a recognition of a
meat for public consumption that has hitherto been considered
more game than domestic. It places the rearing of the domestic
rabbit as an industry and fancy on the same footing as that of
fowls. What is now before the breeder is the exercise of wisdom,
prudence and judicious methods essential to the education of a
consuming public to the value of this new meat as a reasonably
priced food. Nor should this be especially difficult, since the
meat of the rabbit is unquestionably the most dainty and most
nutritious of all meats. As an animal, the domestic rabbit is
the cleanest and most prolific of all animals used for food, and
weight for weight, it costs less to produce five pounds of meat
than any other. :

In France, Belgium, and to a great extent in England an
Germany, the rabbit is largely the meat food of the peasant
population, owing not only to the delicacy and nutritious value
of the flesh, but for its economic production.

The people of some foreign countries have passed through
sad experiences relative to their meat supply, and while we in
big America do not anticipate grave seriousness that our supply
will run out, it is withal a serious issue with the dependent class-
es in our large cities to an extent involving millions. The daily
papers publish thrilling stories in almost every issue of instances
where suffering for lack of food, and meat in particular, are
causes of suicide, sickness and even riots. Frequently uprisings
by the poor were held from grave results by the Government
making itself indirectly responsible for bringing about a reduc-
tion in the rate, so inordinately placed by the beef trust, which
controlled almost every pound of beef and pork handled in city
trade.

I cannot say how the essentials for living are manipulated
in foreign countries—whether trusts or syndicates exist to make
prices as they please—but if things do not change here by some
authority more powerful than the moneyed monopolizers of the
commodities of life, we need not go among the poor of foreign
nations to find scarcity of food. As a people we are no better
than our foreign brethren. We may be richer—at the present
time—4out if we keep on wasting things by inordinate living,
misguided economy and without thought for next week or next
month we are very liable one morning to wake up hungry.

Furthermore, statistics inform us that millions of poor
people throughout all civilized countries can afford to eat meat
no oftener than once a week, and many none the year round.
Why this should be so I cannot understand. I do know, though,

6

that the environments of the working classes in the cities are
daily becoming more impossible in the way of securing food,
and our country of large, free and abundant America is not by
any means so secure within itself as to be immune from possible
visitations of disaster in many forms affecting the food supply.
Once a nation tolerates its business integrity to become so cor-
rupt that business men obstruct food from reaching a distribu-
ting market in order to sustain an inordinate high price over the
pretext of scarcity, and allow that food (meat and vegetables)
to rot, while people are in want and starving, it is not without
the bounds of reason to suppose that such flagrant injustice will
go unpunished by the God of Nations. It is a question whether
the densest heathen in any section of the world would pursue
such tactics to punish an enemy.

These remarks are not inapropos to my subject under con-
sideration, from the fact that the opportunities at hand in the
rearing of rabbits makes it possible to offset much of the in-
justice endured by those who need meat and can’t afford to
secure it; for these little useful and delicate morsels of flesh can
be reared in most any vacant space from a corner on the farm to
a four by eight back yard or cellar of a town house. The rabbit
is thus utilized by the peasant and poorer classes in foreign
countries, and there is no reason why it should not be so utilized
in this country, and made a staple food on the same basis as
beef, fowl and fish.

Why all these arguments should be necessary in behalf of
an industry that merits the closest recognition without them, is
indeed strange when considered from any point of view—for
instance: during the open season for “cotton tails” thousands
upon thousands are killed by all manner of disagreeable and
unsanitary means; placed on market, and sold at prices twice
the actual value of meat per pound, considered even as a deli-
cacy. Why not a far more desirable, cleanly, more readily ob-
tainable at all times, more nutritious, and cheaper meat produced
by the domestic rabbit? Observe the menu cards of hotels, res-
taurants and other resorts of the epicure and note lobsters, crab,
turtle, and a dozen other disgusting and indigestible things pre-
pared a la mode at fancy prices—none better, so clean, so diges-
tible, more dainty, or so cheap as the unapproachable loin of a
seasonably prepared rabbit. Why is this superb meat overlook-
ed, or shall I say, neglected, for no reason whatever. I am sure
once an intelligent acquaintance is had with it through the med-
ium of judicious culinary experiment, it will become as staple as
all the other meats, and the rearing of the domestic rabbit will

be an industry of necessity. CHAS. T. CORNMAN

a |

To Our Friends and
Readers, Old and New:

HE RAPID SALE of the third edition of Rabbit Culture

and Standard, and the many kind words of commenda-
tion we have received have been very gratifying to both

the publishers and myself. Some few have offered
criticisms and suggestions in a kindly way, and these we have
given consideration in preparing the fourth edition—chiefly
among which are the abbreviation and omission of obsolete mat-

Cc. R. DEARDORFF

ter pertaining to the Belgian Hare, and the addition of new
chapters on practical phases of the rabbit business. The stand-
ards have also been brought down to date.

Sincerely believing we are offering the rabbit industry a
work of superior merit, better and more practical even than
former editions of this work, we submit our efforts for your
kind consideration and approval.

Sincerely yours,
Cc. R. DEARDORFF
North Judson, Ind., Sept. 30, 1919.

ra)
Qa

Rabbit Culture

By W. F. Roth
THE FANCY

REEDING domestic rabbits is accomplished for two pur-
B poses—that of Fancy and Utility. For Fancy, implies

breeding to requirements that have been formulated in

accord with certain ideals, termed Standard; for Utility,
means rearing them for market meat, and whatever commer-
cial use can be made out of the fur and skin. I will refer to
each separately.

Careful search has failed to identify the term fancy with
that of rearing animals, nor that of fancier, unless a “cant name
for sporting characters” can be so construed. The definition of
the word Fancy is “to imagine”; to “form in one’s mind an ideal”
of a thing “which appeals to one’s liking.” Another definition is
“the faculty by which the mind forms images or representations ~
of things at pleasure;” and still another “taste, conception.”
Last and perhaps as near correct as any, makes it imply to like,
to be pleased with, particularly on account of external appear-
ances.

These definitions, it seems to me, are singularly applicable
to the pact of folk who make it their object to rear animate crea-
tures so they conform with certain pre-conceived ideals whose
chief points are beauty, grace, usefulness, and harmonious blend-
ing of physical characteristics into a being as near perfect as the
imagination can conceive. This, to my mind, is a technical
Fancy, and it is not difficult to appreciate how interesting, at-
tractive and profitable it can be made.

A Fancy, too, does not stop at mere admiration, or liking,
as I fear many follow it. One can own and admire a creature,
and yet not be a fancier; for a Fancy, as the above definition em-
bodies, means development, advancement, and persistent effort
toward an objective point along definite lines. A life-time of
useful application can be vouchsafed in it as reflected by the
beneficial results to mankind from the efforts of pioneers in its
various branches—the horse, dairy cattle, sheep, swine, the dog
and cat, many handsome breeds of fowls, and just as beautiful
and useful for Fancy and food, the Belgian Hare, the Flemish

9

Giant, the New Zealand Red, and other valuable but perhaps less
well known varieties of the commercial rabbit, as well as the
smaller and more strictly “fancy” varieties. In all these depart-
ments the Fancy has assumed such merit that the Department
of Agriculture recognized the necessity for assisting by the
organization of experiment stations for advanced study of the
different features embodied in it.

The commercial rabbit and fancy rabbit has lately received
recognition from a Government departmental source, and sev-_
eral bulletins prepared relating to the rabbit industry. Once the
commercial value of the rabbit is intelligently appreciated, re-
cognition as a national industry must follow. Progress in this
direction lies with the Fancy, and it is this body that must make
the Utility subservient to it, with the fact before mind that no
creature can be too beautiful and physically perfect for food
purposes.

A Fancier

To be a fancier, is to interest one’s self in the principles em-
bodied under the term Fancy and as a breeder, aim at their con-
summation so far as possible. A fancier must needs be a breed-
er, but a breeder is not always a fancier. To be a true fancier
does not merely imply the liking of a certain classified animate
being known as breed, strain, or type of animal or fowl, but as
already intimated, the knowledge of an ideal toward which the
liking inclines to an extent that scientific effort is exercised in its
growth for perfect attainment. This implies, too, a reasonable
information on structural tissue; of the laws of pro-generation
with regard to merits and defects that are influenced by her-
edity; and of physical characteristics that classify the variety
in question.

To apply one’s self as a fancier can be made an object of
the highest merit in that the exercise of personal qualifications
which stand for honor, honesty and business integrity can be
placed on a par with all other occupations that call for man’s
noblest principles.

The Need for a Fancy

With regard to rearing rabbits as a matter of Fancy, its
beauty and wisdom as a chosen hobby, cannot be questioned. In
several foreign countries, notably England, the breeding of pet
stock has become as much an industry of importance as that of
breeding thoroughbred stock of larger animals for domestic use.
For its production they enter into it with as much care as that
required for a first class specimen race horse, dairy cow, canine
or fowl. The science to successfully produce any one of the

10

many varieties of commercial or fancy rabbits to their present
perfection is as intricate and interesting in detail as for the
above and has advocates by way of membership of men and
women who stand in the forefront of educational, social and
professional station.

Fancy rabbits are particularly attractive in many ways.
They are docile, useful, and exceptionally beautiful; while as a
feature for relaxation from more weighty Se a no
finer field is open for genuine pleasure.

They are singularly appreciative of intelligent attention,
and since their growth is rather quick, one’s pleasure in seeing
the fruits of one’s efforts is sooner realized than in many creat-
ures of other fancies.

By way of unalloyed sportsmanship no Fancy brings more
real satisfaction than that derived from the numerous shows for
friendly competition, where often the specimens are bred so
keenly to the edge of uniform quality as to almost make a judge
look three ways at once. And it pays for when choice winners of
any of the varieties, fetch as high as anywhere from $25 to $125,
and win a trophy worth $50 besides, one need not wonder why
such a Fancy attracts good people to membership.

I know fanciers who annually have an income from $200 to
$1,000 from the sale of specimens for breeding only; and in this
country prices are not one-half that secured for winning speci-
mens in England. That this is so, is entirely the fault of the
Fancy here, and on the whole our stock is just as good as theirs
—in many respects better in the matter of health and stamina.

The reader will pardon this personal introduction, but I have
often been asked by frequent visitors to my rabbitry “What
prices do you obtain for the general run of breeding specimens ?”
“From $5 to $25 per specimen I have heretofore considered reas-
onable” is my reply. To show an approximate average, I will
state that for 27 there was remitted $222.

That a Fancy can be made a nicely profitable feature is fur-
ther qualified when I say, that the actual cost to rear a Belgian
Hare or any variety of similar size and habits to maturity need
not exceed 80 cents for a year’s feeding when all foodstuffs have
to be bought. Under many conditions the expense can be re-
duced to half this, so when one can secure stock of superior merit
for such a limited outlay, and realize from $5 to $50 per speci-
men, such a Fancy commands more than passing notice.

A well informed fancier and author has this to say: “As a
Fancy the Belgian Hare and fancy rabbit has few rivals which
can claim such concentrated advantages, for, apart from the fact

ui

that each section of society is represented in its rank as exhibi-
tors, the world-wide popularity of rabbits as an article of food
and commerce grows by leaps and bounds annually.” I look
forward with the consciousness, that what has become in a num-
ber of densely populated foreign countries a Fancy and Industry
of inestimable value to them in various ways, will not be long
distant here.
The Rabbit cs a Species

The rabbit is indigenous to virtually every part of Europe
and America. Australia has also a species of rabbit somewhat
akin in type and habits to the American “Jack.”

The rabbit is a species of quadruped separate from that of
the hare, nor will the two species “mix,” as many suppose, un-
less in very exceptional] instances. It appears, also that to what-
ever country the rabbit is indigenous, it has characteristics that
differentiate from its brother of the same species in another;
either larger or smaller, or of varied color markings. The same
holds true of the hare in its native heath.

The rabbit is of the species lepus cuniculus, and the hare
lepus timidus, though both belong to the family redontiae—a
creature with long, rat-like front gnawing teeth. Originally the
rabbit was introduced into Europe from Africa, is the prevailing
opinion among zoologists, and most likely what is now Spain;
from thence into Brittany, and eventually over all Europe. How
long since, or rather, in which of the earlier centuries this trans-
pired is not definitely known.

In its gregarius habits the rabbit also differs widely from
those of the hare, and in the wild state is said to be monoga-
mous. This latter trait, however, ceases with domestication, and
either sex becomes altogether polygamous. It also differs from
the hare in that its young are born immature, with eyes closed
and the body nude of hair, in a nest lined with fur pulled from
the mother, burrowed in the ground whenever possible; while
those of the former (hare) are born with eyes open, and body
nicely covered, in a “form” on top of the ground.

The fertility of the rabbit is also proverbial, a litter contain-
ing anywhere from 4 to 12, while the female hare rarely brings
forth more than 2 and seldom as many as 4.

An old English name for the rabbit is cony, and its cogno-
men in many others is similar to this, as Latin cuniculus, Italian
coniglio, German kaninchen, and Welsh owningen; but the rabbit
is not the cony of Scripture.

Each country, and in America, each state has laws which at
this time regulate the destruction to which it may be subjected
as game; but this point is not essential here.

1a

For domestic purposes the rabbit has been bred to many
varieties, and virtually so from early times. As a dainty morsel
it has graced the table of ancient monarch and his humblest
peasant down the ages until now, so that as an article of food
and commerce it is recognized the world over.

The actual consumption of rabbit as a food is not totally
known from available statistics right now, but England alone
uses upwards of 25,000,000 pounds annually and in France, Ger-
many, and Austria, as well as Belgium and Holland, it is, as

Darcids remarked, largely the food of their peasant class. What
is known as the ‘Famous Ostend Rabbit” is merely a specially
reared Belgian for culinary purposes, and occupies much the
same position with epicures that the Canvass Back duck does in
this country.

England has received her supply hitherto almost entirely
from the colonies, notably Australia, where it was so abundant
as to make wholesale destruction an absolute necessity because
of menace to crops and fruit trees. J am informed quite recently
however, that the Australian species is in some danger of ex-
termination, for it is not alone for food that its use extended;
in fact, at first it was not used for this purpose at all, but for fur

Uvery extensively utilized by hat manufacturers. Because of this,
indiscriminate slaughter was executed so that now I am told by
one of the largest hat makers in the world that fur from this
source has fallen off in supply nearly 40 per cent. and price con-
sequently advanced in the same ratio. This same hat maker was
greatly concerned, and advanced the suggestion that it would
become an absolute necessity to rear fur rabbits in large num-
bers for both hat and leather uses, as well as the more inexpen-
sive furs for wear. In fact, large quantities of skins are already
utilized for the latter purpose, which would seem to suggest a
field for unusual profit when managed with a view to producing a
specially grown article of superior “wool” merit and wearing

_ qualities. I am convinced that this can be done.

i)

English Lop with Good Earage

Varities of Domestic Rabbits

Descriptions and Standards by Roth, Cornman and Deardorff

Many varieties of rabbits have been “made” by domesti
breeding, and here follow the more prominently recognized by
fanciers: Flemish Giant, Belgian Hare, New Zealand, American
Spotted, Lop, Dutch, Angora, Himalayan, Polish, English, the
Silver in Grey, Fawn, Blue and Brown; the Tan in Black, and
Blue; the Havana, Imperial, and Selfs.

The English Lop Ear

The Lop

As a fancy variety, the Lop has made itself decidedly pop-
ular, and while perhaps not so much so in this country as i
England and Germany, it has, withal, many admirers. Its prin-
cipal characteristics is the large ears for which it is noted and
specimens'of enormous proportions have been produced in recent
years. Instances are recorded with an earage of 27% by 7%
and a weight of 12 pounds. Because of this immense earage,
however, its breeding for purposes other than Fancy is not so
desirable as that of less bothersome varieties.

Ears

For show purposes the Lop has two classifications—one for
entries of classified length, and the other for any length. For
the former, classification usually exceeds 24 inches, to any pos-
sible limit beyond this; while in the latter no specification i
made, and these specimens are judged perhaps more for univer-
sal quality than earage alone.

Measurement of the ears is taken from one extremity across
the head to the other, and the width of one ear must be at least
one-quarter of the total; that is, if the earage is 24 inches, the
width of one ear must be six inches.

There is also a characteristic pendancy to the ears when in
natural sitting pose that must be looked for in well bred lops,
which is due to a correct juncture of their roots with the cran-
ium. This is an important point, and means that an ideal speci-

14

~

ENGLISH LOP—Showing a wonderful breadth of earage.

ive Jo Y}pPeIIqg PUB YzSUe] oY} JOU ‘IOUUTM OZ1Id W—GOT ALIHM GNV WOV1d

men has the contour of head over its highest portion where it
joins the first (cervical) bone of the neck so adjusted as to com-
pel the ears to suspend uniform, and gracefully curved around
their convex distension, without collapsing appreciably in any
place except where touching the floor.

Pose and Shape

When the head is posed as just described, it gives position
to the animal throughout, a point that qualifies for Standard
merit. This will naturally approximate the fore legs beside each
other from elbow to toes, so they are evenly paired under the
rounded breast, and not much more than foot-length visible;
neck rather sharply curved so as to start the back-curve from
shoulder junction in a uniform, almost half circle, free from pro-
jections, to the root of the tail—‘‘in the buck rather straighter in
saddle outline.”

The hind legs are uniformly straight by the side of the body
toes not pointing away nor toward it, and flat on the floor from
knee-joint forward, altogether “humping” the body between two
strong!y outlined shanks so as to make it Pappese almost balanced
in the middle of them.

Color
Unlike the Belgian and several other varieties, Lops are
bred to no specific color, unless solid blacks can be so identified.
They are represented in sooty, fawn, white, grey, yellow, or,
modified buff, blue and self; or in broken colors of yellow-and-
white, grey-and-white, blue-and-white, or black-and-white.

In the distribution of these colors, there should be some
appreciable regularity in that they are not to smear into one an-
other, while “the saddle should be entirely self, the markings
breaking at the shoulders.”

Butterfly

The head “‘has a star or blaze on the forehead; but its chiefly
marked feature is the butterfly, a marking which, while it leaves
the nose with no trace of white, is broken on the outline, resemb-
ling this beautiful insect.”

This singular resemblance is physically due to the charac-
teristic anatomy of a Lop head—the rounded, lateral-and-for-
ward convex nose; conspicuous eye brows, and rather broad ap-
pearing forehead formed by the root of the ears.

All these points enter into classic breeding of this variety.

Eyes
There is nothing special about the eye of a Lop other than
it should be sound and attentive. But I will add, there belongs

17

yet something that makes it decidedly characteristic of this
variety of fancy rabbit. The inordinate size of those pendant
ears demand an anatomical adjustment of muscle and cartilage
about the cranium that creates more or less corrugation around
the eyes, which causes a singular droll expression quite typical
of the Lop. It is an appearance of earnest effort to keep the
eyes open in spite of those large ears.

Tail
Must be perfectly straight and “carried well up the body,
without any suspicion of a twist.” To carry the tail side-wise
does not imply a twist in it, nor is it necessarily a disqualification
when the specimen is otherwise meritorious.

Breeding

As remarked, the object of breeding Lops is virtually alone
for their earage, and there has been considerable contention
among fanciers just where success comes from—correct strain,
or correct attention. Arguments of intense warmth with no small
acrimony have been freely exchanged on this point, but I am
reasonably certain that if the strain is not endowed with inher-
ent propensity to procreate well developed ears, there is small
chance for meritorious success.

The matter of artificial heat will, without doubt, also accent-
uate growth of ear; and when natural weather temperature is
below 70 degrees within the quarters, becomes a necessity, not-
withstanding all arguments to the contrary.

One prominent English authority insists that it is impossible
to produce earage beyond 24 inches without artificial heat, but
we must bear in mind that there is a marked difference in clim-
ate between our country and that of England, and that warm
days are not so many there as with us. That artificial heat is
extensively used by European fanciers is a fact, but whether it
is a judicious procedure for the welfare of the breed is a question.

For the mere purpose of Fancy and general admiration, one
can derive virtually as much pleasure from the “anylength”
class—say, 20 to 25 inch earage—as for extra length. The latter
is largely a fad.

With regard to mating, care, feed and general attention, the
breeding of Lops does not differ essentially from that of other
varieties, other than added care for the ears, which persistently
hang on the floor. For this particular it is necessary that the
quarters be kept clean continually, and the floor well covered
with clean bedding of sawdust and chaff, straw, or hay. A dirty

18

fleor will soon bring on disease of the ears, and once this takes
hold in a flock there is no end of trouble.

Littering

For obvious reasons, it is not desirable that nest boxes are
given the expectant mother doe. If the general habits of a
Lop are considered, along with the preponderant ears, it will be
plain that the more room a doe has, the better able will she be to
care for the young. All she requires, therefore, is sufficient ma-
terial with which to build a comfortable nest in one corner of
her coop, along with the wool she will take from her body to
line it.

After kindling, see that no dead ones are among the litter
and for reasons of success, reduce the latter to no more than
four. I would suggest a foster mother rather than destroying
them, particularly so when one has a reliable strain for ear-
age; for it often happens that those from which the least is
expected turn out best in the end.

It is simply astonishing with what rapidity the ears of a
young Lop will push for length. An old fancier who has bred
this interesting variety for many years informed me that if the
quality of a specimen is not apparent by length of ear in 10
weeks from birth, there is small purpose in bothering further
with it. He tells me that he has often measured the ears of a
youngster on an evening, and by the following morning there
was an additional two inches in length. One would scarcely
believe this possible but I have not the least reason for doubting
this fancier’s word. This qualification implies, that an earage
upwards of 20 and 22 inches must show at the end of 10 weeks,
and that further length is very limited.

I have often seen it in print that many practice “‘pulling the
ears” to accentuate length, and on the other hand the accusation
was also denied. Whether true or not, this practice should be
condemned—with punishment, if necessary.

Standard for Lops

There are now two standards by which this variety is judged
—for the Limit Classes, and Any Length Classes. The former
has special significance for ee while the latter considers
the specimens as a whole.

18

Limit Classes:— Points

Har length 4h 20 Pic ae ae 15
Har width 2.7 9.0P sess ae See 15
Substance and shape of ears .......... 5
Shape and carriage’. :. ./0.:"sedsw Gene 10
Color and markings. 220.) 2.0 sae ee 15
Gonditionnitiaers. 75.6514 otha eee 10
Straight Meet sanditail\., as. ses eae 10
BYO Aaavea hes WEL en RS Occ’ hee 10
Sima. Sais eee aT Wea wie eh alee a dene 10

100

Any Length:—

|e WTSTak do! pee | EOS nee ee aOR, 25
SER SUCH Liens aac ee Pena se Nes ays. sh x eveoe sa erably
Substance and shape of ears .......... 9
irate feet Bi AA vane css. .s 10
Golo®- anid Conmaon) nn eats ae tae. 21
Shapes and Wize i oo weteree es gece. - 10
BIS GB jen cts uni ooe pkeoa CEE es eee cieies eo 6

100

Bucks to weigh 10 pounds and does 11 pounds or over.

French Lop
The French Lop is similar to the English, as described above,
but is smaller in body and with smaller ears. They are judged
»y the same Standard as the “Any Length” class in the English
yariety.
Disqualifications—Permanent wry tail or feet.

Dutch

By many this is claimed as the handsomest variety of al!
domestic rabbits, and with considerable justification.

The Dutch is not as popular in this country as in England
and Germany, though it is making friends fast.

There is about this variety a certain fascination that ought
appeal in particular to fanciers with a critical eye, for its color
- markings are such as to make a scientific breeding an absolute

necessity.
20

It has been said that Dutch are “hard to raise,’ but why
more so than other varieties has not been made clear, to my
satisfaction at least. Were such the case, it is likely the trouble
lies with the breeder rather than in the breed.

The Dutch is not a large rabbit compared with domestic
rabbits in general. Standard qualifications want it compara-
tively small; so if there is any lack of stamina in the breed, it is
possibly owing to a persistent effort at keeping down weight,
accentuated also, by close in-breeding.

Color
Color markings of this variety are characteristic and very
pronounced, one color being always white, and the other either
black, blue, tortoise-shell, or a type of steel grey. The solid
colors must be typical of the parts they cover, and distinctly
separated from the white. Neither shall smear into the other
and both must be entirely free from foreign hairs. Fancy value
of a specimen depends altogether on the perfect markings thus

characterized. :

White must be the markings of shoulders, fore legs and feet,
under jaw and nose upward to between the ears, forming a dis-
tinct blaze. About 1% inches of the hind legs from toes upward
is also white. Solid color covers the saddle from short ribs
back all but the hind feet, and its junction with the white must
be as clean cut a line of demarkation “like a string about the
waist.” Both sides of the face, jowls and ears, are of the same
‘solid color, just as evenly separated from the white.

Breeding

The biggest contention associated with breeding this vari-
ety lies in persistently keeping down size, and maintaining solid-
ity for the two color markings.

To breed high quality Dutch there is but one road to real
success—that of establishing a reliable strain.

Start right, and the battle is near half won in the knowledge
of personal results that relate to points of merit or demerit.

The greatest contention is to overcome a propensity for
foreign hairs and splotches in solid markings, notably on the
sides and flanks; specks in the eyes, or distinct discoloration;
and white inside the ears. ,

When mating it is advisable to use breeding stock that has
maintained solid markings after its second molt. Intelligent
attention to this factor has been a leading guide to the establish-
ment of permanency in markings; and largely, also, for physical
characteristics in general.

21

AS

CHECK MARKINGS»

NOSTRILS —_-

SMELLERS

CHEST

AN IDEAL DUTCH—Very nearly perfectly marked.
Compare this fellow with the ideal cut helow
Lines up in sood shape, doesn’t he?

SADDLE

bene
UNDER CUT ‘Foot STOP
EDGE OF JAW COLLAR HIND FOOT

IDEAL DUTCH MARKED RABBIT

<SIOE OF SADOLE

The breeders whose success I have noticed as most pro-
nounced, mated either a second molt buck to younger does, or a
two-year old to yearling females. Greatest stress was laid on
color characteristics in the male, while the females were selected
more for inferior size; thus, as near as possible, equalizing points
for both color and weight.

Physically, the Dutch of whatever markings, is a beautiful
rabbit when rightly bred. .It should be neither racy nor cobby,
but a graceful medium to which there is sufficient length that
does away with pudginess. Never to grow above 5% pounds,
size and grace should be harmoniously proportioned to make an
ideal. The ears are perhaps a trifle on the small size compara-
tive to specimen.

As to markings, these are so well outlined in the young
when born, that one need not waste effort in bringing up what
will likely turn out worthless ones. I am alluding to the line of
demarkation separating the colors. If this line is ragged or
irregular, colors will show the same when fur is grown out.

Feeding

Standard weight for show purposes is five pounds, and not
over five and one-half, hence one must keep in mind continually
that overfeeding conduces to overweight. In fact, they do not
seem to require as much as a few other varieties of the same
size to keep in good condition; and so far as the nature of food
required, there is no essential difference with that of other
breeds—with the exception, perhaps, that not quite as free a
supply of greens be allowed. This latter conduces to a disease
known as scours.

Quarters

Every one will readily understand, that a small variety of
rabbit does not require so much room as a large variety. The
quarters should be comfortable, clean for the sake of color as
well as health, and sufficiently high to allow free jumping
exercise.

To keep down weight by exercise is far more desirous than
doing so by stinting food. Exercise and air make for vigor and
“blooming” fur.

Standard of Points

Blaze and Cheeks 2...2.<ce scene 15
Clear . NeCK \ iae.s%s: «rsieccasuschinss eae 10
Saddle <5 ieseca'y ww sons coed soe eee 10
Undercnat 2) i bois vice ss + aia s nine 0 10
Feet-st0pe frie. ss sepa t fees ee 15
SYS. sie eterejee triste + ns a4 5'e mie) se oot ae 10
WY Giiace tameectetaea state ce “S Nake ee 5
COLON Sune araaauavete Mele Cougd © ele-nceree crete 10
Size, Shape and Condition ............ 15

100

Negative Points

Small specks on eyes .......... to lose 10
Discolored, or wall eyes ....... to lose 20
Distinct spots, or flesh marks ......... 20
Over 5% pounds in weight ............ 20

70

| Angora

In this country, the Angora has been heretofore an exclu-
sively ornamental variety. It makes one of the most attractive
pets one may wish, and in the show pen one of the finest exhibits.

In several European countries, notably France, this variety
is reared quite extensively for its fur as a source of income by
the peasant folk—furriers buying all that is rendered.

As a matter of information I will mention here, that one
rabbit is estimated to furnish “wool” at a value of 5 to 7 frances
per year, or approximately 20 francs for three years, after which
it is considered worthless by reason of the “wool” becoming too
coarse, and is then consigned to the peasant’s food supply. One
specimen is “pulled” twice each season, much after the method
our forefathers employed to secure down from geese.

To us hurrying and much-wanting Americans this source of
income would scarcely appeal right now; but permit me to prog-
nosticate, that time is not far distant when breeding rabbits for
fur purposes will become an actual necessity—unless the wearer
of fur and felt hats gradually affiliates himself with some sort
of inferior substitute. Of this I have been assured by one of
the largest manufacturers of felt hats in this country, and he
qualifies his assumption by saying that “it will be but a few
years from now for us to see rabbit farms in every community.”

2%

A WELL GROOMED WHITE ANGORA—Showing the length and texture of its wool-like coat.

A Splendid Angora. Note the wonderful ear furnishings

BLACK AND WHITE ANGORA
Colored Angoras come in Blues, Blacks, Grays and Fawns and combinations
of these various colors with white. They are not so
popular at present as the Whites.

This would seem to bring the Angora forward as a desirable
rabbit along these lines—essentially so for cross purposes with
other varieties to attain the most advantageous fur.

Among a batch of mongrel rabbits I shipped some time
since to a New York commission house, was a specimen appar-
ently the result of mating a near Angora with a part Belgian.
The singularly beautiful fur attracted my attention and by look-
ing it over carefully, was impressed with the possibility of what
the hat industry opened to one who would give scientific attention
toward the attainment of a species of fur rabbit for this purpose
—possibly from cross-mating thoroughbred Belgians, Angoras,
and Silver Greys.

For Fancy
As remarked for purposes of Fancy the Angora is very
attractive, and makes an ideal pet. It is perhaps the most docile
of all varieties, tolerating whatever handling is required to keep
it so with entire freedom. .

Because of its long and delicate fur, it must of necessity be
brought up in positively clean quarters. Constant disinfection
must be applied to keep them so, and it must be remembered at
the same time that all animals and creatures with long “wool”
are ready carriers of disease germs.

In its most perfectly developed form the Angora resembles
a puffy ball of snow, with the head almost hidden within its
fleece. The longer and finer in texture its wool, the higher its
value as a Fancy specimen. Wiry type of fur is not desired nor
correct, while a tendency for it to mat appears an evidence of
high quality.

It is bred, of course, mostly in white, though recently some
effort is being made to bring out what are expected to be blacks
and blues. These latter have created quite some controversy
among their fanciers antagonistic to several judges who passed
on them with considerable question—rather in the light of sports
“in smoky color” than a bred up variety of true shade. The fur
of blacks and blues has been found, also, to modify with each suc-
cessive molt to an extent that one is scarcely distinguishable
{from the other.

' Breeding
Out of the 100 points called by Standard requirements, 55
are demanded for quantity, quality and length of wool. This
should indicate to the intelligent fancier along what lines speci-
mens ought to be selected to reproduce these qualities; and since
the procreative functions are always more pronounced in the
male, it becomes essential that this side of the line is well bal-

27

anced. In no instance of breeding live stock am I in favor of
feminine characteristics to preponderate in the male, but when
mating Angoras for the particular qualifications above mention-
ed I am positive that femininity on the fructifying side will pro-
duce best results. A coarse male rarely fails to reproduce coarse
effects in both body and fur of his offspring. True, have the
female as fine and pure of fur as available, but rather let size
and front furnishing be the preponderating characteristics.

Tufts on the ears are also an essential show quality, and
should preponderate in the male.

Grooming

Many an otherwise qualified specimen has failed to win,
simply because it was carelessly groomed, or not at all; and to
groom properly is a matter of no small attention.

The exceeding fineness in texture of fur indicates that the
skin is compactly covered with almost microscopic hair follicles,
and to be in any way rough to these with coarse brush, comb, or
confections, possibly, means a coat that will eventuate into
coarseness. First essential, then, is to keep the skin clean and
healthy from the day youngsters begin to show Angora wool
type. For some months this is not a bothersome attention, pro-
viding the quarters are kept clean and well bedded with shav-
ings or fine hay. An abundance of the latter will do wonders by
merely sifting through the fur, but to accustom the ball of wool
to handling, and nurture the tender skin so its covering remains
soft and fiuffy, occasional brushing with a freely flexible wire
brush, followed by a medium bristled hair brush, is desirable. At
any rate, do not permit the coat to mat. But should this happen,
and the specimen is desired for exhibition purposes, a genuine
shampoo becomes necessary. Whatever one fails to do, under no
circumstances fail in preventing vermin getting into the coat of
an Angora; for here is trouble that becomes very real once
it has a start.

To prepare a specimen for exhibition, one’s object must be
to have the skin and fur virgin white and clean, which is best
accomplished by means of a shampoo and dry brush.

Select a warm place, say 75 to 80 degrees, and water of at
least 98 to 104. Apply the shampoo with the wool scruffed
“wrong way,” use gentle rubbing, and then wash off with clean
warm water, followed by a rub down from a soft Turkish towel.
Before the fur is altogether dry, dash through it a bit of good
3ay Rum, then finish. When brushed well, muss up the fluff and
sprinkle through it borated taleum powder, which is in turn thor-
oughly gotten out by liberal brushing “in every direction” until

28

the wool is woozly soft as the driven snow. There is no danger
of the specimen taking cold if these directions are observed.
Just be sure the fur and skin is entirely dry, and when Bay
Rum and talcum is applied its pores are effectually protected.

I have often been asked what to do for the removal of brass-
iness and stains, and “what to apply to make a pelt pure white?”
If brassiness is not inherent with the strain, and stains have not
remained too long, a shampoo is usually sufficient. But remem-
ber, there is a vast difference in brassiness acquired from envir-
onment and that of heredity, and in a properly cared Angora
ought not to show.

Standard of Points

Viet TG Vir Olge yO OR eos) ors. sh sears lone se roost aie oe 30

Meneia BHOSGUANDILY | 5) 2. .0.6'4)00 oes wecy 2s

HE OaNG oF PMS UITN GE SS) ca sg aoc oo) 4) st Ke Bde 10

Fei SHUN 2 epee, aces va sausSaensiickere: vl-sval onecn's\ ol Syete 10

ACMA ONAABE 95 o'.5 ba cist i's see ew dlsinly 15
RESIMUCINESONINS, Gage oss Sree Mxavs me * Ni Sepa 10

100

Himalayan

In Europe this variety of rabbit is reared in considerable
quantity for its fur, and many fashionable women carry pelts
with the belief that they are wearing beautiful ermine.

The Himalayan is one of the handsomest species of domestic
rabbit that can be desired, and beside being an ideal pet, brings
real satisfaction to the critical fancier in the breeding of it for
classic points. It is worthy of a stronger position in the Fancy
than it now occupies.

By the way of description it has a beautiful white coat of
short, fine, flossy fur, soft as down, and looks at one with droll,
attentive pink eyes. The nose, ears, tail and four feet are deep
chocolate black, a beautiful contrast to the white dress over all.
If these back points are deep and dense, and nicely even separ-
ated from the white, a specimen becomes all the more enhanced
in value. The young when born are white entirely, but about a
month old the dark extremities begin to come out gradually, and
at four months their development is complete.

A singular peculiarity about this variety is the anomaly of
their black points growing lighter on exposure in the sun, and
for this reason their breeding’ should be conducted in hutches
with subdued light. Indoor quarters would therefore appear best
adapted for successful effect, and which, on account of the deli-
cate fur, must be kept scrupulously clean,

20 N

In size a specimen should weigh about four pounds, and in
general physical outlines conforms harmoniously with that of
Dutch. Ears are neat, small comparatively, and black to the
roots. No dewlap. White fur entirely free from blemishes of
alien color.

To make all salient points clear with regard to rearing this
variety successfully, I will quote verbatim how a reliable breeder
says in “Fur and Feathers” he goes about it: “Allow the young
to remain with the doe until they are 8 or 9 weeks old. If you
take them away before, they will in all probability stop growing,
and a young Himalayan must keep on growing until it has got
all its points cleared.

“With regard to mating, the question of relationship does
not concern me so much as fitness from the standpoint of increas-
ing points of excellence, and correcting faults. I never trouble
about how closely they are related, providing they are perfectly
sound and robust. Never on any account inbreed from stock
tainted with any kind of disease, or regret is sure to follow. For
my part I like stock closely inbred, because it keeps your opera-
tions more closely confined. (Of this theory associated with
breeding the English fancier is virtually obsessed. I will refer to
it in the chapter on Belgians.—Author.) These are the lines I
work on, and I feel sure a great many of the most successful
breeders of live stock have done the same.

“As to feeding, I never found that Himalayans wanted treat-
ing any different to other kinds of exhibition rabbits, only per-
haps, that you should not give them quite as much green food,
and not change it quite so often or so suddenly, as they are very
subject to looseness. In very hot weather let them by all means
have a drink of cooling water; but don’t leave it in the hutches
that they knock it over, for this soils them, and spoils the color
of the feet.

“And now I must get to feeding. Some Himalayan fanciers
swear by hard feed and some by soft, but I don’t stick to either.
I just give them a nice change as often as I think good for them
and if I find a rabbit does not care for the food I am giving, I
take it away and give something it does like. Oats and wheat
are the staple food for breeding stock and growing youngsters,
but when preparing them for exhibition I like soft food, because
I can mix together various kinds of food of an oily nature, and
this keeps them on the move, and the molt. As soon as I have
got their points clean, however, I give them hard feed, and three
times a week some bean and pea meal, just to tighten them up
and get them in fine condition.

30

HIMALAYAN

This. beautiful variety is well represented by the above specimen. Note the intense black
and well defined markings, which, however, are not shown in picture to best advantage,
on account of the dark background.

“T have referred to food of an oily nature, but this in no
way gives them color, which must be bred for, though it gives
their dense points a lustre which is so fascinating, and which a
judge likes. Some of the oily foods I used were linseed and
molassine meal, whilst I have also used with great success a
mixture of cod-liver oil and lime water—the lime water taking
away the fishy taste from the oil. This is a fine conditioner and
flesh-forming food for any kind of rabbits that are inclined to be
poor and in low condition.

“And just a few lines with reference to stained eye-lids. I
am very much afraid we shall have this defect for a considerable
number of years; in fact, I very much question if it will ever be
gotten rid of, unless Himalayan fanciers import quite a fresh
lot from their native land.”

Regarding the above points on care and feeding for Him-
alayans I quote the writer entire, for the reason that he conveys
with but slight modification the process pursued by virtually the
whole English Fancy. It gives the reader a clear idea how fancy
rabbits are reared over there, and to what fastidious lengths
they will go to make a specimen showy. After results do not
seem to be considered, and in the light of such effort, with its
noncommittant environment as to climate and limited quarters,
one need not wonder that stock coming from there is without
stamina, and too frequently diseased. Once we are obliged to
rear stock for show effect only, there will be small interest for
the scientific breeder. I allude to the efforts of forcing Nature
to yield beauty at the expense of inherent physical qualities.

It is a physiological fact, that rabbits with pink eyes are
not so tolerant of light as those with dark. As an act of com-
fort therefore, if for no other reason, they should be kept in dim
light quarters; and particularly should the young be protected
until at least six weeks old.

Standard for the Himalayans
Density, Shape and Size of Markings :—

BMOOR hor Phe. elses ile cia he 25
LS 1 22) ee a 15
Ps REI sie al.< G, Soc Verse . acese ay Gino a poe 15
A I oiro8 cia heidi. sieitly esse 2.6 ad ve 5
Ly SE ee ee 15
ADU BN a hk Sg ri) sth kafa in bond») eve larese abs 10
RRO On raed pd afer ss tee: Wie, & & » 2, 0c esciacs 5
Ee gE eM oe ee ye ee ee 5
Se) cas ad «Ra SE PRO te el RE a 5

106

Silver Grey
Here is a distinctly useful variety of domestic rabbit, and in
referring to its physical characteristics, I wish at the same time
to express a hope that shall actuate a better appreciation for the
real merit to which it is entitled.

On superficial observation the Silver will scarcely be esti-
mated as handsome, but on close examination of a correctly bred
specimen there will be discovered a delicacy of fur that is more
like silk than wool, and when that beautiful “pepper and salt”
silvering is seen shimmering through it, there can not fail of
real enthusiasm for the production of a good type animal.

The Silver is neither large nor small, ranging from five to
seven pounds. It has not the racy, reachy style of the Belgian,
nor the compactness, get-together” appearance of the Flemish.
Fine of bone, clean and dainty, delicately valuable fur, and as
near an ideal meat as the most fastidious epicure can demand.
Indeed, it is almost too fine a meat, so that cross-mating, say
with the Belgian largely enhances its food value.

I have given considerable attention to finding the origin of
this variety, and while it is essentially an English product, the
several fanciers who have rendered an opinion were so diversi-
fied that I am loath to say anything authoritative.

One may inquire why this variety is named “silver Grey”
rather than merely “Grey,” as one is readily impressed on first
seeing a correct specimen. There is a certain shimmer to the
fur that clearly conveys the tinge of silver, due to a proportion-
ate number of tipped hairs evenly distributed, known as ticking.
The shade may vary from light to dark silvering according to the
greater or lesser quantity of light hairs. In fact, from the stand-
point of Fancy, the value of a Silver is estimated entirely by the
evenness of its silvering, which ought to be as near alike over all

:
:

the animal as possible—ears, nose, feet and tail should match ~

body color.

Undercolor is by some termed slate blue, and by others blue
black. This should extend distinct to the skin. What is often an
otherwise good specimen Silver Grey is frequently made inferior
by entire lack of undercolor on the chest—a point to be con-
stantly kept in mind when one’s matings are made up, or new
stock purchased.

Likewise, specimens that are otherwise evenly silvered but
have a “cloudy appearance” usually possess a strain from the

Browns.
34

SILVER GREY

A beautiful variety, not siven the attention in this country it deserves.
the defect of slight kinks in the ears (caused by hutch conditions) the above is a

Excepting

very good specimen.

SADDLE
!

SHERRING BONE OE€TINITION

ChEEn SPOT
CvE CIRCLE

THE NOSE FORK
On TAIL OF THE
OuTTcrriy

SSr S\y

. >

PM \ at
. LEG MARKING

Ai eee x wh?

~,.
LOG 22 SHOULDER MARKING ;
BODY MARKINGS LOIN MARKINGS

J wine OF BUTTERFLY
ce

iow Norge '
4 f ae
for & FEATHER tlh gf” (gaa
CHAIN MARKINGS

IDEAL ENGLISH RABBIT

(NOTE :—Eliminate the “chain markings” and substitute two or more large patches
for the body and loin markings in the above, and you have the ideal markings for the
American Spotted Giant, the shape and size of which, however, corresponds to the

Flemish Giant—see page 53.)

“gh eded uo 4nd [wapl YIM poieduod se 4OUNSIP pue Bald ‘ssuryivUr yaj1ed ysoulye Vy} 930N
AJOUBA [NFYNVEG SITY} JO UOUTIeds yudT]I9x9 UY—HSIIONG

Breeding

There is but one essential to the successful breeding of Sil-
vers—stock of even markings on both sfdes. This implies that
males and females are as near like one another as one can
possibly have them. If anything, undercolor is perhaps of more
vital consideration than surface color, which, as remarked, must
have the evidence of even silvering. The coat should be short,
and of such feel and consistence like silk.

It is claimed by breeders of this variety, that richness of
silvering is intensified by warmth. This, of course, comes from
the English method of rearing the variety, and where climate
and consequent environment must be considered, also the pro-
priety of winter breeding, always injudicious unless accompanied
by artificial heat. The latter is a factor only when one breeds for
show classes as scheduled according to age limits at all times of
the year. At the age of six months the finished lustre of a
Silver is supposed to be complete.

Standard of Points

Undercolor, a deep rich blue black ..... 25
Evenness of silvering throughout ...... 20
Sharp, even bright ticking ............ 15
GEE TED COAT cee a we cactics erevecee. avetenshieya 10
Ears, neat, well set on; bold, bright eyes 10
iSize—about six pounds .............. 5
Condition andishape wilh .wielladweicn's os 15

100

Silver Fawn, Silver Brown, and Silver Blue

are varieties not recognized to any appreciable extent in this
country. At shows one sees occasional specimens purporting to
represent them, but their breeding is of such uncertain success,
as to warrant scarcely any real interest in their support. For
utility purposes, they are just as appropriate as the Grey. Stand-
ards—except color—same as Silvers.

Enelisn

This is a “made” rabbit by English fanciers, and among
them has many staunch admirers. It cannot lay claim to super-
ior merit over any other variety beyond the singular markings
that characterize it, and correctly bred, these are quite beautiful
and odd.

The breeding of English rabbits is always surrounded with
considerable uncertainty, and in no variety is the necessity for
reliability of strain emphasized as perhaps in this. Lately, also,
some slight modifications in their Standard markings have been
made that do not by any means simplify breeding.

Persistent inbreeding is the more likely road to success to-
ward characteristic points, and as our English friends invariably
do, they follow it with a vengeance.

The peculiar markings which typically identify this variety
are known as “herring bone” and “chain’—the former from
shoulder along the entire back, and the latter along sides, ending
on both shanks. Ears are solid black and the eyes are also sur-
rounded by a solid circle. “Butterfly” nose is considered by
many as important a point as that relating to ears and feet.

Standard Points for the English Rabbit
Head Markings :—

Pertect. butterfly smut: ccna eee 15
Circle around each eye <. .. vse 8
Eye spot, clear from eye circle ....... 6
Hive; ¢lear‘and bold: ......0.e-00sese ees 3
Ears, neat and free from white, not
over four inehes: long’ <-.\...¢a5 = 5

Body Markings:—
Neat saddle, herring-boned in any dis-
MINOT COLON a= ayes bo forars 2inlpi ea olejohseareen 10
Sides of body to be nicely broken up
in small patches, not to catch saddle

TIARA 5 2iera oy deckat nce erareren ales aVetaees 12
Chain markings, even as possible on
PACHEISIME” Nereis Cele leveteye Sales’ es voce ails 12

Leg Markings:— :
One distinct spot on each leg ..Fore leg 6

Hind leg 2

Belly. spots, should: be six... .7<a0ssan 6
Color | ccree eth ier eae fenieOte erate) cere eae 5
Size and shape, 6 to 8 pounds ......... 5
Condition, good coat, not baggy ....... 5
100

Polish

This is the “White Rabbit of Easter,” and when bred to
Standard qualifications, is an exceptionally handsome variety.

It is pure white over all, has pink eyes, and in physical out-
lines closely resembles the Himalayan (without the dark points).
In shape it is neat, and not by and means pudgy, and has little in
common with the white rabbits one sees running about yards,
kept in filthy small boxes by children, and reared mostly for
Easter occasion. Very few of these are Polish. With its solid
whiteness that gives continuity to outline, there is apparent all
the while something striking in the spry and bold appearance to
the animal, and quite typically accentuated in the inquisitive pink
eye. When on the alert there is a characteristic grace that
removes all compactness out of the body, with the result of real
beauty in outlines.

Its fur is of fine quality, short, close to the body, smooth
and of silky texture. Ears are short, well set on, thin, and finely
covered with fur, the latter point being good evidence of thor-
ough breeding.

Because of their immaculate whiteness—and, by the way,
there must be no evidence of brassiness in the coat—Polish must
be bred in clean hutches, so constructed as to prevent direct sun-
light into them.

There are no rules of special importance for mating other
than the male and female should be well matched as to quality of
fur, ear finishing and perfect health. Any evidence of brassiness
must also be avoided, a caution quite essential when new speci-
mens are purchased.

Standard Points for Polish

ROI et A Aaa eat 5 aie holo kia Tei 6 xa 15
Size—three to four pounds ............ 10
a Tid TS DIS Ee aleeesael ae ia ile nea 25
east yarOte COLOT ris sev sitete ws. atene vies wite. cn". « 15
PEP ete iho s Ge 5 ays Kista bowie Pit eiaele iw os oo 15
EV CSM EMER ISP SEL ae. 1s ise ES SNe apace Whe Teabereg 15
CUTIE BO Ss ae oa oA Re SRE Oe 5

100

Havanas

This is one of the very latest varieties and was first intro-
duced as an exhibition specimen into England, in 1910. The cor-
rect color is dark brown to dark chestnut brown and blood red
brown changing with the varying light. From Holland, Havanas
have been sold to go to France, Switzerland, Germany, and quite
a few have found their way into the United States. In France
they appear to have been crossed with the Belgian Hares, the
color of these specimens being light tan brown, and the frame
and ears are consequently much larger than in the original
variety. The pelts are of considerable commercial value as an
imitation beaver. Furriers require a rough, longish coat, and
the Dutch variety appears to be the one most bred for this pur-
pose. Havanas are strong and hardy and easily reared in outside
hutches of ordinary dimensions. The show type that appears to
be superior is the smaller, neat, short coated variety. The larger
ones often exhibit:a dewlap and are somewhat coarse and awk-
ward looking. The eye is deep brown, changing to ruby and
quite a feature of the variety whose most pronounced fault after
the variation in color, appears to be a preponderance of white
hairs in body and ears. The general appearance of the Havana is
somewhat similar to the Imperial, with a decided blue cast to be
seen on the belly and thighs. There are wonderful possibilities in
the Havana and we look forward to them becoming great favor-
ites in the United States.

Standard of Points for Havana Rabbit
Color—A rich, bright brown all over, with undercoat of
Dale. LEY +. a\x: o's sisiy «a's leinrs a a islhle © » , 00s, PRN apR aa 35

Shape and Size—Exceedingly fine and elegant, somewhat like
the Black-and-Tan. Head and neck medium. Weight,

when full grown, not to exceed 5% pounds ........... 20
Ears—{Four inches long, fine in substance, small, straight
and: CAFTISR TIPTREE: 27. Ske cso nla gas ca nlye ©, pape ee 10

Feet—Very slender and straight, with brown toe nails .... 10
Eyes—Large, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the

pupil, yet having a soft and gentle expression ......... 5
Coat—Short,: fine: and) silly «cd oa s .''de'< eae eae 15
Condition... io 1 seine Swed cease abun’ a hye ae 5

100

46

Black and Tan

This beautiful and interesting variety has but few admirers
in this country. It is essentially an English product, and is sup-
posed to have its origin in the cross of a domestic with the wild
rabbit (not hare) of England.

In shape, and to an extent in markings, it has considerable
identity with the Dutch. The points are, of course, Black and
Tan, each color distinct for the parts to which they are attributed
and must be free from alien splotches. Tan must be of a deep
and dense color distributed as follows:—front, sides, feet and
hind legs, jowls and face. Ears are small and the eyes are very
bold, after the instinct of wild rabbits.

Standard Points of Black and Tan

OCD AUG TICN. oe eg es oes es es ve + Hee 15

lake (GONSE.. re af ereteteiet> disiteas sterera ala id oti 10
IEIEREUE CE a ORS ron sss Santgiels we 4 9 $968 5
istic EMG ICRP EC bisa. oy cteveceidig S vate sistas 5 51d Soe 10
: PONE REG 5g ain eine e ngs #:5'% «Reape eae 5
bution Chest and Flank and Belly ....... 10
of Tan Nose, Eyes and Jowls ............ 5

Ears, in and outside margins ..... 5 40

Snape. Chat OL DUTCH cen ccs vscn ce oe as i)

Size—about four pounds .............. 5

Mars, shart, and biadicne. 20 s< 5 sia. 10

1 ee tat ear ro ge: ee 5

Roneition 4 27) ae etoile OA OL 10

100

Blue and Tan is identical with the above, blue taking the
place of Black.

Weight of both varieties, 442 to 5 pounds.

Al

Imperial

The ideal Imperial may be described as follows: Shape and
size, similar to that of a Belgian buck, but shorter in limb and
weighing, when full grown, from 6 pounds to 7 pounds. Color,
dark blue, of one even shade throughout. Fur, soft and bright,
and rather longer than in the short haired varieties. Head, nar-
row and tapering, eyes being long, bright, and deep blue in
color. The ears should be about 4% inches long, round at the
tips, carried erect, and set rather closely together. The com-
monest faults are white hairs intermixed with the blue, rusty
color, brown eyes and bars of a lighter or darker color on feet.

Standard of Points for Imperial Rabbit

OADS CG GSMS «ties cinieanacy ies arms eee 25
GVH sn vs a star ia nein We ga een ce Tene 15
BY6S! ey idid's's cok hed af Boos eee ee eee 5
Head, narrow and tapering ........... 10
Color. is casi ves oan pe eaerna ee eee 25
Coats. ccieee atu. 5 Cand dale dba er ea ee 10
Legs*and Feet: iis. .¢06 ps5 250 cone 5
Condition”... 22 ee sese 2 ones Cee eee 5

100

Selfs

It was not my intention to touch on Selfs and yet the book
would scarcely be complete without some reference to the en-
deavors being put forth at present to popularize Self-Blacks and
Blues. The production of such varieties presents little difficulty
in the matter of color, and all that is required to be done is to
reduce size and shape to the Standard governing the Polish or
White Self rabbit.

Breeders of these new varieties which give every proof of
rapidly becoming popular are obtaining them by different meth-
ods. Blacks are being bred by mating dark Silver Greys and the
common wild rabbit, caught when young and tamed, and from
Polish and Silver Greys. Both Self-Blacks and Blues are com-
mon enough in litters of tan and English and this presents an
easy method of obtaining stock. Self-English are, however,
much too strong in type, and therefore not the best means of
securing the desired end. The first method of producing Blacks
is the best and for Blues the Self-Blues often bred in a litter of
tans is equally useful.

42

No Standard of points has been drawn up, as yet. The only
guide to breeders is the Standard for Polish. Neatness, short-
ness of ears and coat, combined with purity of color, are the
points to aim for, and the rabbits when produced are to be of the
“bantam” variety. There is no doubt about the success of the
newest of new varieties, providing the Polish type is adhered to,
and it is safe to predict a successful future for Selfs.

American Blue
(Formerly Called The Vienna Blue)

This variety is an introduction from Germany, where it has
been extensively bred for meat and fur. The color is a beautiful
dark steel blue throughout, with eyes to match. As compared
with the Flemish, it is more upright and shapely, and weighs
about ten pounds. Dewlap small.

Standard of Points

MAE ee ee oe a Tae os he als PONE FRE 25
SRO yere oi ciaeiecd ae ie delet cers fat che are 20
WWWietoite cae Sfisitie wvocata: este al secvastione Seelsta chen 10
BAUS: Dyce ste area tees oe eee ole Bele ee acdhae stable 5
GSO Be Masses Sorat Settee co area aden eet aol He tis 5
TRIE VC ois eaina cane b cic bcp Sac RII ie AIS CRAISE 5
HES SHANG MNCS: wists tihistcveic sta-aiecaraeueretecets 20
PHMGTA OI Se 2 het UE oN ra eee 10

100

Japanese

The Japanese rabbit is rather an oddity and is very rare
in this country. The color scheme is intended to represent the ©
rising sun, and consists of irregular circles or bands and patches
of different colors, running around the body to represent the
sun’s rays, and the undercolor, varying from cream to brick red,
representing the sun. While the markings may be very irreg-
ular, they must be clear and distinct and not of a mottled appear-
ance. In shape they are short and thick-set and weigh about
eight pounds.

Standard of Points

VEIT Sanne pis cles act «) tale sts eebareteiasres Ges 30
TINASLEOTOR ose. asi. 2) 5 's0 PAG ee tah atraetalielek ooh 20
Sanpete cet acme SS)b wad ore d tae 20
BATS P ANG mle Aue eeregs wie cre cuss stoncichessex cuctels 10
FROUDE is eet oieeah ales ser etatSieiioy aes sha ahs bape 10
COMGIRONE Macearihs Mees c swe no nd lk naans 10

100

43

The Flemish Giant

As the name implies, this is the largest of all varieties of
rabbits. By reason of its size the meat for food purposes is not
as fine grained as that of its more classic rivals, the Silver and
Belgian; but on the whole is quite desirable from the fact that it
does not require many months to reach the same equivalent in
weight which others attain only at maturity. Its meat is there-
fore all the more tender and appetizing.

The origin of the Flemish is somewhat obscure, but late in
the ’60’s or early in the ’70’s, there was developed in Holland and
Belgium a cross-bred rabbit that was given the name “Leporine.”
Later this was introduced into England, and here is what one
author says about it: “Since Leporines so-called were introduced
into this country they have been bred continuously, but with dis-
tinct and different objects—in the one for size, and in the other
ostensibly to develop a rabbit of the form, color, and fur of the
wild hare. The larger race has been called Patagonian, but is
now recognized in a different type as the Flemish Giant.”

It is of course, then, a “made” rabbit, which accounts, no
doubt, for the difficulty encountered by fanciers to breed reliable
markings.

By reason of its immense size, the Flemish can without pre-
judice be named King of fancy rabbits. Specimens have been
produced that were said to weigh 20 pounds, while the average
weight of Standard bred stock should be at least from 14 to 16
for females, and 12 to 15 for males.

Whether this can be attained by American methods under
the environment and climatic conditions peculiar to this country,
remains to be seen. -

If one can not, or does not care, to breed this variety for
Fancy, it is of excellent utility use. The mother being large,
naturally has more nourishment for her young than a smaller
variety; so that by a bit of attention to feeding, her offspring
can be made to weigh near 4 pounds at six weeks, and at 3
months will reach 6 pounds. One fancier informed me that he
has grown them & 8 pounds, and some 9 at three and one-half
months old. In ae event, the Flemish should prove decidedly
profitable as a u@®et proposition.

. AS

A GOOD STEEL GREY FLEMISH GIANT—Note the long massive frame, lots of good
meat in one of these fellows.

peaH pedeyg [12M Pue Apog yo YTueT JON ‘aOq YsTWa,T J993g pooy

Mating

In all my remarks with reference to the different varieties, I
shall speak of them in the light of being thoroughbred stock. I
am not in favor of mongrelism for any purpose, and all the less
so in any living thing that is utilized for either food or Fancy
use. The methods suggested are therefore done so with a view
to qualify for Standard requirements, and the breeder can so
apply them whether rearing stock for show or market purpose.

When getting ready to mate, look over the stock with care
and see that all intended specimens are sound and of good coat.
Consider size and evenness of color with particular criticism.

For utility, no particular rule for mating is essential other,
perhaps, than size and health, and it has been experienced that
nice, dark bucks mated to “smoky” does will produce the largest
stock as to frame and weight. For show purposes, however,
matters are considerably different.

Each specimen must be made an individual study with a
view to fight against every fault that should not appear in an
exhibition entry. One must pair up for length of frame and
massiveness, and to this end select specimens as near Standard
in points of merit as one has been. Any defect in one of a pair
always appears liable to show itself with more emphasis than a
desirable point so that it is all the more important to select
breeders of perfect body, good ears well set on, nice large eyes,
straight and strong limbs, perfect set tail, massive and firm
body as near of the steel grey color as possible. Mate dark
steel greys, if one has them; but if there is ruddiness in one of
the mates, it must not be on the male side. A black or intensely
dark steel buck mated to a ruddy doe, usually gives good results;
for in breeding Flemish it appears necessary to frequently fall
back on black to maintain the essential dark tinge for true steel
color effect.

A black buck mated to a light steel grey. doe will reproduce
dark steel greys, and a dark steel grey buck mated to a black
doe will result in a shade that seldom fails to attract a knowing
judge.

Littering

The period of gestation is 31 days, and if it varies more
than a day longer, or two at most, there is something wrong.
The doe will begin building her nest, and pull fur to line it with,
any time from 10 days to an hour or so before due to kindle, so
that it is necessary for her to have material for the purpose
such as short hay or straw scattered about the hutch.

Have the nest box so situated, if possible, that one can look
into it without moving out of place, and sufficiently roomy for

47

the doe to have free movements within so as to obviate danger |
of trampling the young. And I will say here, that Flemish re-_
quire larger quarters in general than any other variety, because
of their size. Plenty of room means better success with them.

A few days before the doe is due to kindle have before her
continually a dish of clean, fresh yater. Many does become
feverish at this time, and will not infrequently destroy their
young if the desire for water cannot be satisfied beforehand.
This would be unfortunate, and occasionally it genders the desire
for blood to the extent of making cannibals out of them with
every subsequent litter.

After the doe has kindled look over the nest and see if any
dead are among them. If so, remove these with as little dis-
turbance as possible, at the same time diverting the mother doe’s
attention away from the nest with some tempting greens or
other delicacy.

The matter of permitting a doe to bring up an entire brood
is for the breeder to decide, but best results will eventuate by
leaving no more than six at most. Above this number calls for
extra attention with food and care.

I know not a few who have succeeded in bringing up litters
of 9, 10 and 11, one instance of which turned out every one a
prize winner. But as a matter of Fancy, few fanciers permit a
doe to rear more than four, fostering the remainder with a doe
bred at the same time, or destroying the smaller ones out of a
batch.

With Flemish, or other of the giant varieties, it is desirable
to attain as rapid and as much growth from the first day on as
one can, and the more youg there are in a nest, the more each will
hinder the other’s development. It is only a matter of several
days, also, until there is a tyrant in the lot who preempts more
than his individual] share.

Flemish in the nest can from the first day be quite well
selected for quality as to prospective standard points, like
this—steel greys are known by their pink bellies and dark backs,
while the blacks are virtually one shade on back and belly alike.
What will turn out as light greys will have decided pink bellies,
the tinge of which spreads well up the sides.

During the time a doe is suckling her young, an excellent
dish to help growth is a sop of bread and sweet milk in con-
nection with the evening mess. This is also an ideal “condi-
tioner” for the young after leaving the nest up to six weeks old.

With regard to feeding generally, each fancier seems to have
a method he personally thinks best. Some do quite well, while

48

others have less success; but I am safe in saying that more rab-
bits are lost from injudicious and too frequent overfeeding, than
from insufficient and less frequent.

All varieties are fed along similar lines. But just bear in
mind continually that the giant varieties require approximately
more food.

Standard for Steel Grey Flemish Giants Size and Weight
Bucks 12 pounds or more. Does 14 pounds or more.

Points

Size considered, irrespective of weight ................... 30
Color—Dark steel grey, even or wavy ticking over entire
body; head, ears, chest and feet alike. Belly, and under

part of tail as near white as possible ................. 20
Body—Large, roomy and flat, with broad fore and hind

quarters. Does to have dewlap, evenly carried ........ 15
Legs and Feet—Strong in bone, large and straight, color of

BAe TOmMACCh shia Ol» OMY arerresensiscisistomter+ Syelalatetfos «'s\ 15
Head and Ears—Head large, full and shapely, with large bold
eye of dark brown color. Ears moderately thick, carried

neatly erect. Head and ears to match body color ...... 10
Condition—full, short coat, flesh firm, healthy ............ 10
106

Cuts and Disqualifications

Any grey, steel, sandy, or other shade on the belly or under
tail, except a streak of grey in each groin, sandy, brown, or red
color mixed through the body fur should be penalized according
to quality of competing specimens. Inferior size, crooked legs,
barred feet, screw tails, lopped ears, camel backs, and small
narrow heads, or heads entirely too “bull-shaped,” are disquali-
fications.

I will also add, that there is no small tendency for Flemish
to throw a ruddy brown color shade; and while stock of this tinge
usually has the making of large specimens that will do well for
utility use, as show exhibits they are absolutely worthless in the
eyes of an expert judge.

'To breed true and harmonious steel grey, is no easy matter,
and the correct Standard shade; or rather, permanent color is
rarely apparent in its perfect tone until completing the second
molt.

NOTE—tThe Standard calls for belly “as near white as pos-
sible” thereby following along lines laid down by English fan-
ciers, who demand “pure white.” However, it is impossible to

49

get a white belly, or even nearly white, without more or less
sandy color cropping out on neck and legs, hence the American
breeder, in order to get the beautiful even body color, generally
favors the German Standard which demands an even color
throughout. The best American judges favor an even dark steel
grey body color, harmoniously blending into a somewhat lighter
shade on the belly.

Grey Flemish Giants

The Grey Flemish Giant is a strain of the Flemish bred
more particularly for great size that is not attainable in the
Steel Grey variety. The Steel Grey has been bred with certain
color requirements in view, and to this end size has been sacri-
ficed to some extent by infusing blood of some of the smaller
varieties, such as the Silver Greys, Himalayans, etc. In the
Greys, considerable latitude in color is permitted by the Stand-
ard, any shade of grey not conflicting with the Steel Greys,
(steel grey is a disqualification in this variety), either light grey,
sandy or reddish grey, but should be as nearly uniform as pos-
sible. Size to be as great as possible, not less than 13 pounds
for the bucks and 15 for does—five points cut for each pound
underweight. Bodies to be long and massive, broad quarters,
strong and powerful legs and feet. Does to have dewlap evenly
carried. Standard points as follows:

Size and Weights... Jian << aa tee 30
CONOR aie ok p's oe Rly ee ae ae 20
TRGB seine fing Bellet one bees ie eae eee 5
FORE eters oes aie ciee toh oie ble Oe eee 5 -
Body wad: Quarters... 6.5 <G:neinaewes 20
Temssand “Feats it te. See est 5
Conditions’ 4 288. ea oaies eee 15
100

Solid Colored Giants

The color should be solid throughout, free from any foreign
color. Weight and size same as the Steel Grey Flemish. The
White Giants should have pink eyes; others, eyes to match body
color. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. Standard of points
as follows:

UAB Bo armtarin nse Soe eee eS Gi Ok EE Ete 30
OST ETE OSS Fa i Sgt eo a rm a 20
BROAN eal ee eae ek 5 setae ancy ape ya Uh
NRE ERD Cro eilot ss’. Ethie eb givciak-s ¢ 5
Head; Byes and Ears’:: 00:2... 6 00.56 10
POESILELUGMSED Gi )S soos ose sac sv ¥AES Nese « Gian we 20

: 100

American Spotted Giants
(Formerly Called the German Checkered Giant)

This beautiful rabbit was introduced into this country a few
years ago from Germany. Its great utility value, being equal
to any of the Giant varieties in that respect, and its beautiful
markings, are rapidly making for it a place in the front ranks
of both fancy and utility breeding. In size and weight it ranks
with the Steel Grey Flemish, but possibly somewhat lighter
boned. The color of the perfect specimen is identical with that
of the English rabbit, except that it does not have the “chain
markings” and the patches on the sides of body should be large
and but few in number as compared to the English. There
should, however, be not less than two of these patches. The
“butterfly,” eye circles, cheek spots, teat marks, ear and saddle
markings, all similar to corresponding English markings, may
be of any solid color, but must be unicorm. The body color is
pure white. Disqualifications, any two colors in the markings,
absence of important markings, side patches and saddle mark-
ings in solid patch. Does to have dewlap evenly carried as in
all other Giant varieties.

Standard of Points

PAE RID Merd pe ios ac) waite aos ea es Od eco 5
| DET ASS ig, aia aE AC ari ce PPE 7 10
SOU aen cepa cosene sisbonececa sr bcgr ete, Ga eo ate aeS 20
| Stayer ee ete ASAE NOR CPE clin it nee ay SLM ea A RCP 10
PrLME RI WENN Ge So5pa/ ie astems aie vidiels\e ee aha 20
Colo nigate i ace eee i te eee 25
Condon 2a5. SEF ee Ce. 10

100

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eUL “VqqeY [NJWNVeg AeA B SI 4 “OS A[PeAtOSop pue ‘Apiiepndog ul Surures st pajjodg uBolieury ouy

The Belgian Giants

The Belgian Giant is the result of crossing the Belgian Hare
and the Flemish Giant for a meat type. In color characteristics
it should measure up closely to that of its more aristocratic
brother, the Belgian Hare, but in shape and size should be large
and imposing, with legs rather heavy boned, similar to other
varieties of the Giant varieties. Does to have dewlap evenly
carried.

The Standard

2 ay ee A SESS ea 25
10) To SP Stag SS ae a em 20
CABLIRTE Ay" decs 8 Ao Berets EI eae ec ee 15
Bee IGATS ANG TVES ss. 5 0,. scashd oeida ess 15
NGS SPAM OSE COL a cicsesis « forsnels och) evanaiceate « 15
PR TIPRCSE EMOTE Arye o's Gop. sak We gees oie Delecerahs.a, AE apele 10

100

New Zealand Reds

The New Zealand Red is one of the latest additions to the
list of ““American made” rabbits and has become one of the most
popular. It made its first appearance about 1906, and was claim-
ed by its promoters to be an introduction and importation from
New Zealand. Investigation has shown that no such rabbit is
indigenous to New Zealand, but that a rabbit of somewhat simi-
lar appearance to the first so-called New Zealand Reds that ap-
peared in this country, now inhabit the southern part of New
Zealand, having been originally imported to that country from
Scotland, and was there known as the Scotch rabbit. Be that
as it may, the animal, as it now exists, is, without question, an
American made product, bearing but little resemblance to its
reputed ancestors.

Because the animal is so evidently a product of the ingenu-
ity and skill of American fanciers, rather than that of some al-
leged importation of foreign stock of doubtful character, and,
believing American breeders should be honored by conferring
upon it a good old American name, instead of a foreign one, an
attempt was made in 1916 to change the name to American Reds.
This move was, however, defeated because of the tremendous
popularity the variety had already attained under its original
name. The rapidly growing popularity of this variety caused
much spirited discussion, and some misunderstandings and bit-

53

terness, but at last all factions got together and are now united
in presenting their claims for a variety that is certainly second
to none in the rapidity with which it has improved in color and
type, as well as gained in popularity.

Like the American classes in poultrydom, the New Zealand
may be styled as the “happy medium” between the light-weights
and the heavy-weights. While not so large as the Giant varie-
ties, it matures more quickly, reaches a “frying size” on less feed
than the Giants, and is more meaty than its smaller, though per-
haps more aristocratic cousin, the Belgian Hare.

There seems to be a tendency among some breeders to breed
for extremely heavy weight—to make Giants of them. This is
a serious mistake, and I am inclined to think that judges should
penalize overweight just as severely as underweight. The New
Zealand is in a class by itself, and to my mind, it would be folly
and ruinous to the variety to try to compete with the Giants in
size. The New Zealand occupies much the same position on the
commercial rabbit plants as the White Leghorn does on the com-
mercial egg farms—that is, at the head of the list. Don’t de-
stroy that position by destroying its individual characteristics.

In length of body and breadth of quarters, the New Zealand
should be, as the Standard has it, “medium,” and with legs
“medium heavy boned.” A good specimen will give the idea of
strength and meatiness, but more agile and without the clumsy
massiveness of the Giants.

In color, they should be a “reddish buff, carried well down
to the skin and evenly over the sides and hindquarters, free
from black hairs, not dark or smudgy, or light buff. Belly, red-
dish cream.” Legs and feet same as body, free from white. Ears
same as body and without black lacing. Eyes hazel in color.
Does to have dewlap evenly carried.

Standard weights: Bucks, 9 pounds; does, 10 pounds.
Standard of Points

a EG ieicalins etree ea) tvsve eiiets hay eee 5
BATS oF aise on ovis Bon ee eee ane 10
BN VOS a hiei ete ysis Ii oiteis mPa state eeats Wiens aca 5
Color. iiiasesicdcs wots Dee eee 30
Shape “Gace ds'tin se vidise, capa ene aes 10
Weelg hte soar nick rics fais toto a chat ree 20
Legs and Heety..: dias isew.eer eeictele ste a 15
Condition <:i..uni: {talaga See 5

100

A PRIZE-WINNING NEW ZEALAND—A fine specimen with wonderful type and color.

ANOTHER PRIZE-WINNING NEW ZEALAND

A GOOD BELGIAN HARE DOE—Full of life and vigor. Note
the alert “racy” appearance typical of this variety.

The Belgian Hare
By Dr. W. F. Roth

Introductory

As alluded in a former chapter what I shall remark concern-
ing methods of rearing, and the “keeping” of Belgians in general,
can be applied to all varieties heretofore mentioned.

There is no essential difference in housing, cleanliness, feed-
ing, and practical attention other than the salient points speci-
fied with each variety. The general principles for mating, breed-
ing, the matter of pedigree records, and bringing up along intel-
ligent lines, apply virtually alike in all.

Of all the varieties of domestic rabbits, the Belgian Hare has
maintained highest popularity. This is due largely to its many
excellent qualities in all respects, and correctly bred, offers to
both fancier and utility breeder the widest scope for satisfaction
and usefulness. And bred, also, in harmony with Standard char-
acteristics, there is about it a grace and beauty in both shape
and color that is not found in any other variety.

Origin

There is no positive information available as to correct
origin of the Belgian Hare. Its name would have one naturally
infer that it originated in Belgium, but I am not aware that it
was by Belgian breeders ever designated by the subjoined term
Hare, unless in later years.

An English writer says: “The Belgian Hare is so called from
its resemblance to our English hare, and from its Belgian origin.
It has, however, no blood relationship or affinity to lepus timidus
(common hare), but is to all intents and purposes, a rabbit.”
Technically, then, the Belgian is named Hare by courtesy, and is
a rabbit in fact, the English wild hare being the pattern that has
stood for fanciers of that country as an ideal toward which they
have directed their breeding since its introduction from Belgium.
With all this idealism, however, the Belgian will never be an ex-
act likeness of its prototype, for without the admixture of blood
from the latter there can be no more than a similarity.

Belgian breeders claim, that what is now the upbred Belgian
Hare was originated by them from a cross of the wild hare in-
digenous te that country, and their common rabbit. This asser-

57

tion, though, has never been proven within my knowledge, and I
doubt if it is true. If they have succeeded in mixing the blood
of two distinct species of animals, it was going without the -
bounds of zoological probabilities, and what many have subse-
quently attempted only with failure. There are, indeed, some
features about our present Belgian that lend possibility to the
claim, but when one appreciates the continual contention against
development of the persistent rabbitry dewlap, there is less room
for belief.

Naturalists describe the wild hare of Belgium, by a “fur of
dark reddish color, with white belly and weighs from six to
nine pounds.”

In its original type the Belgian Hare, so named, was intro-
duced into England sometime about 1856 to 1860. It came with
the name Leporine. No immediate progress was made by Eng-
lish fanciers, and it was not until some fifteen years later that
attention was directed toward a specific type. In the last twenty
years, however, much advancement was accomplished, largely
accentuated by the interest aroused throughout this country.

To better appreciate the idealism toward which Belgian fan-
ciers breed with the wild hare as prototype, it will not be in-
apropos to remark a bit of natural history concerning it here:—

Virtually every country has a wild hare that is indigenous to
it, and in no two countries are the species identical. That is,
there is no difference in specie habits, but it is either larger or
smaller, with such modification of color markings as its environ-
ment seems to demand.

America has several species, the most common of which is
the “Northern Varying Hare,” so named on account of accom-
modating its color markings, as it were, to the locality it in-
habits, in the northern countries changing entirely to white dur-
ing the winter months. In summer it is brown, varied with black
tipped hairs, the prevailing color in the more southern countries.

Then we have the “Prairie Hare” (lepus campestris,) dis-
covered by Lewis, and is never found east of Kansas. This spec-
ies is most abundant about Salt Lake and in Utah generally.
The fur is white in winter with here and there brownish spots,
while in summer it is a yellowish grey.

The “Wood Hare” (lepus sylvaticus) is a small variety, and
frequently confounded with the common rabbit. It ranges from
Hudson’s Bay to Florida, and in physical characteristics has
much in common with the wild rabbit of England.

“Trowbridge’s Hare” (lepus trowbridgii) is the smallest of
all American species, and is found only on the Pacific coast.

5g

_The species which is indigenous to England and Scotland, is
perhaps the most beautiful and characteristic of all, the world
over; and as previously mentioned, it is this that has been made
the prototype for attainment with the domestic variety.

In natural history, the hare is described in the following
language: “The common hare is known from the rabbit by the
redder hue of its fur, the great proportionate length of its black-
tipped ears, which are nearly an inch longer than the head; by its
very long hind legs, and its large prominent eyes. When full
grown it weighs on the average about 8 or 9 pounds, and some-
times even 12 or 13. In total length it rather exceeds two feet,
the tail being about three inches long. The color is greyish-
brown on the upper portions of the body, mixed with a dash of
yellow; the abdomen is white, and the neck and breast yellowish-
white. The tail is black on the upper surface and white under-
neath.” This quotation is rather broad, and no doubt meant to
be general for the hare species, while that native to England
(the prototype of the Belgian Hare) is somewhat more pro-
nounced, the animal being rather longer and consequently more
racy. The English wild hare is typically “built” with long, thin
fore legs, rather full chest nicely tapered into an upward trend of .
the belly that ends in a racy tuck-up at the flank, and the latter
fortified by a pair of strong-shanked thighs of powerful propel-
ing muscular action in the well-formed reachy hind legs. Color
that of the fox in full “bloom,” a rich tinge of old gold, and the
back from shoulder to tail tipped with beautiful ticking, “like a
wavy field of grass in summer.” Ears erect, and “foxy” in at-
tention and color, with pronounced black points. Head rather
broad across the skull, short, strong, and a bit thick, with a “pop
eye” that stands out bold and alert, quick and nervous as if
taking in all surroundings at once.

The wild hare will invariably bring forth its young in a
nest (called a form) built on top of the ground, while the rabbit
will “make a hole” (called a burrow) in the ground, line it with
fur pulled from the mother’s body, and have a litter of 4 to a
dozen. The mother hare will rarely have more than four and
more frequently but two or three.

Another differing feature of the hare from the rabbit it is
claimed, is that the former brings forth its young with the body
covered with fine hair, and the eyes open, while the latter are
born immature, uncovered by fur, and the eyes closed for ten
days. I can not verify this assertion concerning the hare lever-
ets out of personal observation; but from the fact that the hare
and rabbit is both of the genus rodentiae, which are all night

59

foragers and born with eyes closed, I am at a loss to reconcile
this particular characteristic.

Distinctly, all Belgian Hares of consequence bred in this
country are of foreign origin, and with but few exceptions, direct
descendants of stock imported from England. What specimens
came to America from Belgium and Germany are as different
from the English type as a Percheron is from the Kentucky race-
horse, and there is little about these that appeals to the classic
fancier. One sees occasional advertisements of “Grey,” “White,”
and “Black” Belgians. There are none such, and the name is
more a whimsical misnomer for an uncertain cross-bred rabbit or
the result of self-colored sports.

Physical Characteristics

When the expert horseman wishes to purchase a speedy
driving animal, he first inquires where, and from what stock it is
bred. It must, first of all, have an ancestry of recognized and
demonstrated quality. This implies health, speed, and durability.
Then he looks the horse over from every point of view—-front,
sides, behind, close and afar. He does this with the animal in
pose and when in action, and notes every contour of head, body, -
and limbs. He wants a driving “machine” that has all its phys-
ical parts harmoniously and scientifically adjusted for easy
action that makes time with the least effort. Shape of head,
expression conveyed by set of ears and attention in eyes, car-
riage of tail, shape of body with taper toward flank, strong shank
action beneath a well-formed back—all these characteristics
make for qualities desired. And so with the thoroughbred Bel-
gian Hare.

In speaking of its physical characteristics we have in mind
all that one sees in outline, contour, shape, size, length of limbs,
ears, eyes, expression and color markings. It is a picture of type
that aims for an ideal, and as before mentioned, since this ideal
is largely made up in the physical characteristics of the wild
hare, it is necessary in breeding the domestic to constantly keep
this before us.

No one man in the Fancy the world over has done more to-
ward bringing the Belgian Hare to its present physical status
than Mr. John Noble of England. His high abilities as a scien-
tific breeder, fine perception of physical points, and all require-
ments that make for success, are only accentuated by the rare
qualities of the man as shown by his gentlemanly courtesy to-
ward every one, that I am willing to concede him all the honor
so meritoriously but modestly earned. Mr. Noble has “made”
the Belgian what it is more than any one else, and this is what
_ he says about the making:

60

“I have made a special effort to develop the shape of the
Belgian Hare ever since I decided to make this variety my spec-
- ialty, and have succeeded in breeding some of the best ever bred.
Most fanciers know that we wish to breed to represent the wild
hare in general style. You will therefore select your specimen
with fore legs as straight and long as possible and the hind feet
long and fine also; ears about five inches long, and carried similar
to the wild hare; head (rather) long. The neck must fall low
from the ears, with a graceful curve along the back, and a gradu-
al rise to the hind quarters, which should be well rounded—not
chopped off abruptly.

“This specimen of which I have drawn the outlines is to a
very large extent idealistic. A successful breeder is an idealist.
You will always have pictured in your mind’s eye what you wish
to see realized. You will not be satisfied with your realization
for as your practical efforts advance, your ideal keeps advancing.
Consequently you are always living in a state of hope.”

Another breeder of note, Mr. Wilkins, has the following to
say of the physical characteristics that to his mind constitute a
typical Belgian:

“The body of a Belgian should be long and fine in build; the
forepart should not be heavy, but fine and graceful; the back
nicely arched and rounded from shoulder to tail; the haunches
round, not choppy; fore legs should be long, fine, and well set on;
that is to say, they should be so placed as to lift the fore part of
the body well from the ground and let plenty of daylight under
it. The head of a Belgian should be long and lean, with prom-
inent eyes full luster. The ears should be well set on the head,
carried erect when in motion, and laid on the shoulder when in
repose. They should not be too short, as shortness of ear causes
a rabbity appearance. The correct length is five inches. The
neck should be fairly long and slim in proportion to the body.
The bones of the hind legs should be long and lean, not thick and
chumpy. Tail should be straight and in no ways curled. The
whole properties of the make-up of a Belgian should combine to
present to the eye, as the wild hare does, a look of gracefulness
and activity. A thick, choppy, angular Belgian is an abomina-
tion.”

This latter picture is even more idealistic than the one drawn
by Mr. Noble, and is decidedly more away from the real wild
hare type, notably its head and neck. However, the possibilities
of these pictures are exceedingly fascinating, and to attain them,
a real art.

It will be noted that in the above descriptions no mention is
made of color characteristic—a feature that to many fanciers

61

appears of almost greater significance, apparently, than that of
shape; so that one might be led to think from this silence that
color markings are of inferior importance. As previously re-
marked, color should have its share of considerate attention, but
never made to supersede shape. Nature is fickle with color iden-
tity, as shown in the ever-changing variableness of the wild hare
according to season and environment.

The wild hare is the race-horse of the native rabbit family,
and the Belgian that of the domestic bred. This point should be
constantly in the fancier’s mind when breeding for quality; so
that by all science available in the breeding art he keep away
from bulkiness, bigness, and general rabbity outlines, just as the
breeder of speed-horses keeps away from the common farm pro-
duct.

But this is not to convey the inference that raciness of shape

means necessarily a small animal. Standard weight is eight
pounds, and this is not by any means difficult when one gets
length rather than compactness. Leave the big, compact stock to
the utility breeder, for this sort should never be specified as
fancy, but made a distinct class by itself after the German and
Belgian type. It is the trade in stock of this latter “make” that
has done breeding for classic Belgians great harm, and it would
not be injudicious to create two classes with a view of opening a
channel for show recognition to breeders whose ideas for size
outweigh those of raciness. This would place the utility rabbit
on a basis of equal breeding for its particular qualities with that
of the classic type. Possibly, too, the advisability of distinguish-
ing names for clear differentiations of the two types would not
be amiss. I shall add here, that associated with an understand-
ing of physical characteristics there is frequently a misinterpre-
tation of type for shape, so will insert what Mr. Ziegler, a lead-
ing American fancier and judge, entertains as a proper definition
of the former:—

“Type is the aggregate of characteristic qualities. A Bel-
gian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type, and again a
specimen perfect in color may be a poor type. It takes good
color and good shape to be a good type. A specimen that scores
high according to Standard requirements is a good type, and one
that would score 100 in shape, size, color and quality would be
perfect type (est inventus). Quite often the word “type” is
used when only shape is meant. The shape of the Belgian adds
to the makeup of Belgian type, but by no means will shape alone
determine its type.”

I will leave the interpretation of this quotation to each
reader individually, and with it the inference that a show speci-

62

men of any species of exhibit judged by the score-card system, is
subject to the judge’s individual interpretations of score-card
points; and that it is as rare as snow on Fourth of July for two
judges unknown of each other to aggregate an identical average
for the same specimen—a fact that demonstrates something “out
of joint” with either the judge or the Standard, most likely the
latter. So long as the English and American Standard remain as
at present, comparison judging will be nearest correct and satis-
factory. With regard to type, I am personally not inclined that
color takes a leading part, and has little more to do than a mark
of identification possibly; nor does it appear to me logical that
“a Belgian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type.”

Dewlap

By visitor and novice the question has often been put to me:
“What is that lump under the chin?” “Why is it there,” and by
the fancier and breeder, “How are we to get rid of it, since the
Standard qualifies ‘no dewlap?’”

The dewlap exists by reason of the Belgian’s rabbit origin,
and to get rid of it has been an effort of all good breeders from
‘the first; and while its riddance is not yet a complete success, I
am glad to note that we are gradually “getting there” more and
more. ,

Technically, the presence of a limited dewlap does not dis-
qualify in the show room under a competent judge, but speci-
mens with pronounced accumulation of a “lump” should be con-
demned both as breeders and exhibits, since it appears that the
tendency to reproduce this objectionable point is quite prone; and
all the more so when the least evidence of it is apparent in males.
For purposes of Fancy, therefore, no buck should be used as a
stock-getter that has not a clean, well outlined neck, and whose
progenitors have been likewise so.

Anatomically, the dewlap is neither fat nor gland, but rather
a combination of both, with an added affinity to enlarge in har-
mony with the functions of reproduction. It is virtually an ex-
tension of the milk glands in modified form, and is greatly ac-
centuated by frequent gestation. To out-breed it means atten-
tion to the selection of proper stock, and to judicious mating with
regard to frequency and age. What has been accomplished thus
far is largely the result of junior matings, or matings with one
side under age maturity, preferably the doe. In other words,
there must be a doe, at least, a physiological condition of sub-
normal development in the reproductive sphere, with consequent
stock of finer physical proportions.

That objection to the dewlap should exist, at least to a limit-
ed degree, as a factor entering into classic breeding of Belgians,

63

does not necessarily follow; but since we aim to reproduce them
as near true hare type as possible, its elimination becomes all
the more necessary, for the more of it we have the less hare
quality we possess.

Personally, I have never seen a matron doe without any evi-
dence of it at all, however slight, and I have seen many as well
as bred of some of the best specimens yet produced; but if one
can breed up to a standard of no evidence in junior does, and not
much in matrons, we can be well satisfied when all other charac-
teristics come within high quality. Success, if at all attainable,
lies in a carefully sustained strain.

Color

Associated with breeding the Belgian, there has continually
been more or less diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a
correct color for it. In fact, fanciers have taken sides over the
issue, and in many instances came near the point of acrimony
about it. “The flame is not worth the candle” compared with the
value of physical characteristics, wherein lies the true hare
picture.

Some advocate the deeper tinted shade styled by them “ma-
hogany red,” while others stand by the now popularized tinge
specified as “golden tan.” As will be seen, there is scarcely a
decided opinion on any shade.

Standard requirement calls for “rufous red.” Why this in-
decisive term was made descriptive for color I am unable to say;
and it is quite certain that the popular color now in vogue is,
technically, not rufous. That the term is confusing is made ap-
parent from various expressions vouch-safed by those trying to
define it with specific wording, as “golden tan,” “golden chest-
nut,” “chestnut tan,’ “mahogany red,” “chestnut brown,”
“brownish red,” etc. One customer wrote me he desired a doe
with “dark red” color and another wanted one “cinnamon brown.”

The term rufous is derived from the latin root rubro, mean-
ing red. Dictionaries define it as “a dull red tinged with brown.”
Tan nowhere enters into any definition of it; though to define the
latter perhaps aids in understanding its association with the
former.

Tan is defined as “yellowish brown,” or “to make brown by
exposure to the rays of the sun.” This would seem to imply
what is to be conveyed by “golden tan.”

Breeding for Color
Bear in mind from the outset, that to obtain color, even ap-
proaching correctness, is the most difficult feature associated
with breeding high class Hares. One can breed a thousand speci-

64

IDEAL BELGIAN HARE
SHOWING THE REQUIRED SHAPE AND STYLE.

“AJIEND puv IOSIA JO 9HVS ay} OZ ‘a[quUsIApe o18
S19}}I] JUeNdDeIy Ssay puv JaypeuIs “TaAaMOY FS A[[BNUUB SIUIIZ JYSIO OF XIS SIY} Surjpeader jo ajqedes st 94g
ATINVA UAH GNV AOd AAHLOW V

mens, many among them of excellent shape and good looks in
general, yet not one in the lot that comes up to finished color
points. Breeding for color is the ignis fatus ever present with
rearing Standard Belgians—‘now you have it and now you
don’t”—but there certainly is a large pleasure in “trying to
catch the thing.”

The first factor toward securing substantial color—and it is
the substantial kind one wants—lies in the selection of breeding
stock that is known to throw reliable depth of true tan. With
this trait thoroughly established in a well built strain, many dis-
appointments are already conquered. It will cost a bit more to
start out with breeding stock of reliable reputation, but to
secure specimens whose blood carry the science of years spent in
its production, will place one a long ways on the road that has
been hard traveling for the breeder before, and obviate many
risks, disappointments, and other troubles that come with infer-
ior stock. I can fortify this assertion with the assurance that in
the past eight years not a single specimen marked white on feet
or shanks has shown itself among my flock, nor a one without
palpable shade of tan on the belly fur.

As remarked in a former paragraph, the popular color tinge
at present most prized by many good fanciers, and toward which
the Fancy in general has been working since the past ten years,
is “golden tan,” so named. A good specimen is quite handsome,
and to breed for this tinge considerable of a fascination; but I
question the lasting qualities on account of its proneness to turn
lighter with each successive generation. Unless one maintains
constant infusion of blood from darker tans there will eventually
be too much white.

A Fancy, I dare say, has somewhat the elements of society
—an institution of changing moods—so that the color for Bel-
gians today is by conservative fanciers classed more as a fash-
ion than a point of lasting quality.

Whatever point one breeds for, keep constantly in mind that
the power of transmitting it lies strongest in the procreative
energy of a properly selected male. This is as true of color as of
all other physical characteristics. The female is more a medi-
um through which a species is propagated than by it. Now and
again one comes across what I shall term a masculine female, or
a feminine male, if such are paired together, the stronger char-
acteristic points will have their imprint from the former; but
such matings are undesirable.

To breed for color, therefore, seek the tinge that is desired
in a carefully chosen buck. Study and settle in mind just what
that tinge shall be, then select a male a least bit darker and

67

deeper; for it is better to breed with room for “back-breeding,”
than to select too light a tinge from the outset. If one decides

on “golden tan,” mate such a buck with a doe of the “chestnut

tan” shade, and in both give particular attention to depth of
undercolor. It is this latter that makes for permanency for the
future. “If ‘chestnut tan’ is to be the tinge, have the doe a
trifle lighter than the buck.”

Once one has carefully built up a hardy, reliable strain from
vigorous progenitors, the task to bring just what is desired will
not be so difficult. But permit me to assure my reader that hap-
hazard matings with haphazard selected stock spells failure in
all the salient points that make for interest in scientific breeding.
It matters little whether these points imply color or physical
characteristics, if one desires to build, the foundation must be
philosophically right. There can be no true interest or enthusi-
asm possible out of a makeshift source, and if these principles
are not included in the makeup of prospective fanciers, they had
better breed for market from the start.

Personally, I admire “golden tan” color on a Belgian; but for
permanent quality and persistent reliability, “chestnut tan” ap-
peals to me as most desirable, and when seen in a specimen of
rich bloom, there is something about it that speaks for dignity,
quality and substance of breeding far surpassing the “flashy red”
which needs continual nursing.

Speaking of “golden tan” in his book Ambrose says, “one
must remember that such is the most difficult color to produce
and maintain, and that it can not be bred successfully without a
judicious mixture of the deeper colored ones.” Then a few lines
farther on the same author says of the latter, “some, I know,
pin their faith yet on the old chocolate shade, but these, when
compared to a correct golden tan, appear absolutely shabby in
the eyes of those who admire beauty for beauty’s sake alone.”

The inconsistency in these quoted lines lies in the fact that
“deeper colored ones” are an absolute necessity to the existence
of “golden tans,” and to breed the Belgian as a color object of
“beauty for beauty’s sake, alone,” is superseding the physical
characteristics that make it a distinct species with a fashionable
fad. Wilkins, in his excellent description of what he considers
ideal Hare characteristics, does not there associate color as one
of them, yet in another part of his book says that “color in the
Belgians is of first importance—it is the cardinal point.” He too,
like Ambrose, is a worshiper at the shrine of fashion. Indeed,
the craze for “yellow” has become such a fad, that to placate a
warning for the future welfare of Belgians is necessary. It has
come to a pass that what is a prize winning specimen in the four

65

to eight months classes, and lauded as a wonder, will receive
secant recognition ten months hence.

When observing a Belgian Hare from a show point view one
notes the colors to constitute black, white, and red, the latter
being the prevailing body effect. Absolute white should be con-
fined to the under surface of the tail alone, while that of the
belly and under jaw should be tinged with rufous sufficient to
give an appearance of rich yellow cream, verging into tan if
possible. Such a specimen is evidence of reliable color breeding.

Heretofore, there has been no small contention with points
of white in the form of bars across the front feet, and streaks
along inside of hind legs, often spreading over the top and down
outside. There is no longer much trouble in this respect, owing
to better fortified blood lines in well established strains. The
fault was largely an outcome from admixture of “any old rabbit”
by unscrupulous dealers in this country and England during the
boom some fifteen years since.

What black is apparent must be distributed from shoulders
along the back, gradually widening down the sides and along the
haunches, ending on a line across the root of the tail. This evi-
dence of black is known by the term

Ticking
and consists, according to one authority of “long black hairs
protruding through and among the golden tan ground color, and
should be crumpled and wavy, and of a jet black.” Others sig-
nify that ticking is constituted of “red hair tipped with choco-
late black.” In harmony with the present tinge of desired “red,”
the latter is nearest correct.

At this writing I have likely as near the correct “golden tan”
as is possible to breed, in one of the most delicate colored bucks
to be seen. Richness of blood is superb in the light of present
desired tinge. He is out of a popular imported champion, and
shows all characteristics of the new “fashion.” On seeing him
hop about the yard, there is scarcely any indication o f ticking.
He appears “red all over,” and fairly blazes with golden shimmer
at twilight (the correct time to estimate true tinge); but when
placed in sitting posture and the hand is gently stroked over the
back, ticking comes out in almost solid wavelets over the surface,
and down the shanks complete.

Close examination shows the long hairs delicately tipped
black—a deep chestnut black rather than jet—not more than 3-32
of an inch from their points, with the remainder of their length
same hue as their shorter partners in thick profusion about.

On the other hand, in an adjoining pen is a grandson of
John Noble’s great African Chief, the perfection of chestnut tan.

69

This specimen has not a white hair on his body except under side
of tail; and while the above “golden” chap is an attraction to be
admired, and would probably win over his partner, there is some-
thing substantial about this fellow that stands for unchangeable-
ness in color of a character which one can not do without for
keéping the golden ones permanent. In this way he is just as
rich of bloom as the yellow one, and as a breeder far superior for
reliability. Ticking is alike in both superficially observed,
neither showing waviness until stroked by hand.

Personally, while I admire a heavily ticked specimen (pro-
viding “red” beneath is right), too much black does not appeal.
And few such can be found that will breed desirable rufous as
associate color.

What is meant by “wavy ticking” is the black-tipped hairs
so placed in rather regular splotches as to resemble the effect of
ripples on the water from a breeze.

There should be no black hairs on the breast and chest, fore
legs and hind legs. A small evidence on the head is admissible.

Aside from the above references to distribution of white
and black, the remainder of the animal should be “red,” otherwise
“golden tan” or “chestnut tan,” according to the fancy of the
breedex.

As a digression I will insert a bit of relaxation right here:
While sitting at my desk writing the above anent color, I was
called out in the yard on a small matter of interest to the child-
ren. This attended to, my topic came in mind, and I walked
over to the hutches with the idea of seeing how my pets came up
to Standard about color points I was trying to tell my readers
in these lines. The day was more than warm (only 96 in the
shade), and I found eight brood does on the floors all in like
position flat on the belly, with fore and hind legs stretched out
forward and back. They looked distressed of course, but the
picture was a real pleasure; for here were eight, and seven of
them as like one another in “color trimmings” as so many peas
in a pod. Front feet and legs, breast, neck and ears, sides and
hind feet and legs, so uniform in chestnut tan as to make one
believe all came from one parent. And those babies with several
of them? Well, they were some Belgians in prospective, and I
was more than ever impressed with the certainty of what I
had on previous occasions advocated, that to attain best results
in all particulars, one must mate his Hares in the season when
Nature intended they should.

Kindly bear in mind, too, that in using my stock as illus-
trative to these remarks, I am not doing so with any advertis-
ing motive. I breed out of pure pleasure and love for the little

70

pets, and for best possible quality entirely as a recreative hobby;
and to illustrate from it is mere convenience. I have few to sell
at any time, very limited room to breed Hares, and such poor
health as to absolutely qualify my efforts. But the pleasure
derived from their keeping is by all odds the keenest enjoyment
I got out of any recreation in the past 40 years. But to return:

Color points as influenced by age are often a perplexing
feature to those not sufficiently long familiar with the breeding
of Belgians. They often wonder why youngsters show so light in
the first eight weeks—a fact apparent in all those bred from
light tinged stock. This, however, will all change with normal
conditions of growth, and if the strain is a reliable one as to
evenness of tan, there need scarcely be any fear of white mark-
ings.

Gradually as age advances, color will also, until from six to
eight months the permanent junior points are complete. In
England, where shows are held the year round, growth with its
accompanying color development is often attained at an age of
four months by a process of forced feeding.

Permanent senior color, however, invariably follows the molt
of second summer, and if the tan is of good strain foundation, in-
tensity, with additional ticking results. To illustrate this point:
A year since a young fancier friend sent a junior doe, then ten
months old, to be mated to my imported buck. This doe was ex-
ceedingly fine in physical characteristics, but quite light “yellow,”
considerably grey on the haunches, with very little but rather
even ticking. On first seeing her I wondered if my darkest tan
buck could sufficiently modify the light tan as to produce even
moderate intensity; but on seeing her pedigree I knew just what
to do. I knew, also, that with the following molt she would
greatly improve. This spring (1911) she came back for a second
mating, and I was surprised at the improved tinge, added tick-
ing, and almost total disappearance of grey—one of the hand-
some brood specimens it was ever my pleasure to see. The mat-
ing proved beautifully successful, and I am proud to own one of
her sons as a permanent fixture to my rabbitry.

As already stated, procreative energy is strongest in the
male. In the sire are supposed to lie hidden the qualities we wish
‘to see brought out as physical characteristics in his offspring.
These, in the Belgian, include color as well as contour of body
points, so that whatever permanency to them is to be established
must be sought for preferably in the sire line. At the same time
I would not have you lose sight of what possibilities can obtain
through the female as a medium for transmitting specie charac-
teristics; for since Belgians are essentially a “made” creature,

71

both lines become important. The female, however, should be
studied from her sire side rather than that of her dam.

Many fanciers mate by selecting the male for color and the
female for shape and size; others reverse this selection. It is an
issue that each fancier can.apply as a matter of experiment
toward an objective point; but unless both sexes are chosen with
due regard for all characteristics, a much larger degree of
obvious disappointments will have to be constantly combated,
with the risk of failure in the end.

Red, designated as rufous, is therefore what constitutes color
for all those parts on the Belgian not specified by white and black
—the latter entirely as ticking. This as already described, varies
from bright to dark, and is qualified by its tinge as golden and
chestnut, with tan as the basic element. The deeper down into
the fur this latter extends, the more valuable the specimen in
point of Fancy, and if extending to the skin altogether is evi-
dence of extra quality.

There is continually some trouble to secure correct color on
the ears of a Belgian; that is, so these appendages harmonize on
their superior surface with that of the ground color on the body.
Often, also, the ears are too bare of fine hairs, almost naked,
indeed, and then either too light or too brownish. They should
be very finely covered with exceeding short, red hairs, a nice
continuation out of the head covering as far up toward the black-
tipped point as possible.

Another failing that seems to be the result of fashion breed-
ing, is whitish-tipped toes—not bars—but a soft cushion of pale
hairs where the nails set in. This is not a very evident failing,
but by oversight in mating is liable to become objectionably pro-
nounced. Now and then one sees a specimen, usually a bright
red chap, with white hairs mingled throughout its body coat.
Concerning this they make a loud noise over in the Old Country,
and Ambrose says it is a “very serious defect which should at all
costs be avoided.” They are willing to admit the “defect” as a
result of in-breeding, yet advocate the latter with a tenacity
bordering on the pugnacious. Best of all, use no specimens
whose coats are distinctly marred by alien hairs of white; but at
the same time do not throw aside otherwise good ones when such
hairs are “far and between,” for we must remember that alien
white hairs are quite frequently the effect of injury to hair foll-
icles from a scratch with the claw, a bump, or bite during a scrap.

Furthermore, our friends “across the pond” are decidedly
finicky about the effect of sunlight as a bleacher to the red. That
persistent exposure to sun rays will tan is well understood, but
that Belgians ought to be reared devoid of this invigorating in-

72

fluence on this account, is begging an issue; and that moderate
exposure will be a detriment is also open to question. As an ex:
periment I placed one of the bright red chaps in an open, un
covered yard, with no protection other than several boxes against
rain. The sun shines in this yard up to 2 P. M., yet this fellow
shows no bleaching after a four month’s test, with the temper-
ature above 94 for a week at a time. However, as a matter of
-comfort I have my hutches roofed over for protection against
both heat and rain, since wet is a whole lot more undesirable
than heat or cold.

A serious mistake often made that eventually proves detri-
mental to color effect, is mating specimens before sufficiently
matured, or before adult bloom is fully attained so as one may
know what to expect. It is a physiological certainty, that while
the reproductive sphere can be responsive to its functions at a
comparatively early age, its fruit thus early produced can not
attain that permanency in physiological characteristics which
come from stamina out of a mature body. To come within all
physical expectations, then, it is well to permit the reproductive
organs as much time for organic functional perfection as the
rest of the body; and remember, that once the reproductive
sphere is drawn on for functional duty, virtually all life of the
being concentrates in that direction, and at the expense of every
fiber in it.

Breeding For Shape Mating

A careful study of the topic that relates to physical charac-
teristics, along with the immediate preceding one about color
points, will give practically all essentials that enter into breed-
ing for both shape and color. Analyze the former intelligently,
and apply the latter in connection so near as it can possibly be
adapted. Use judgment and common sense with what science of
breeding one has available. Adjust inferior points in one with
superior ones in the other, and remember continually that from
the sire emanate the blood line qualities for which we aim.

I have no doubt about not a few fanciers taking issue with
my views concerning my contention for superiority in the sire.
I have not the least objection, and entirely appreciate that the
nearest approach to absolute fact is derived from deductions out
of our differences. Yet I must write as I believe, out of actual
experience and considerable research; and is it not a fact that
in Hares, as in all other stock breeding efforts, the sire has first
place whenever there is inquiry after new blood lines?

But Ambrose says, ’’Success is, to my mind, much more read-
ily secured through the does than through the sires. It is the

, mothers which perpetuate the main characteristics, and yet every
73

one appears to crave so much for sires.” The universal law of
propagation does not justify the idea advanced in this quotation,
nor can it be substantiated unless by instances that are excep-
tions to general rules. Which is not saying, however, that any
sort of mongrel female will reproduce quality stock from a high
class sire. Such an inference is not thought of in these remarks,
for I am speaking of stock that is supposed thoroughbred on both
sides.

There is no question that our present fashionable Belgian
Hares are largely the result of breeding from young animals.
Such a method conduces to fineness in physical features, and has
been a leading factor, no doubt, toward getting the prominence
of an objectionable dewlap greatly decreased. I doubt not,
though, but that all so far accomplished has been done at con-
siderable expense of constitutional stamina; and whether we are
justified to make the sacrifice merely for the sake of a less useful
yet more beautiful animal, I leave for each one’s individual
analysis.

A few years since I wrote one of our leading fanciers for his
opinion about mating. This is his reply: “In mating for results
I select the doe for shape and the buck for color. To eliminate
defects I mate a doe strong in sections of shape to a buck strong
in color. I do this with two pairs suited to each other, then
select a buck of the one to mate with a doe of the other, and find
my efforts have been rewarded.” Evidently his ideas run parallel
with those of Ambrose.

Another fancier of equal prestige, and who has made it con-
siderable of a specialty to breed for shape, lays all success to the
merits of a prominent sire strain imported nearly twenty years
since; and I will qualify this by quoting what Wilkins believes is
a sire’s part in the mating; “The buck plays such an important
part in the characteristics of the young in all points, and particu-
larly in color, style, shape, fineness of bone, and head properties,
that it is absolutely necessary he must be good in these points.”
It is from differences like these quoted that we must acquire our
experience; for after all opinions are weighed, there is but one
sensible course — use the best available specimens “on both
sides of the family.”

My personal experience has been entirely from well chosen
sire lines, and I am quite satisfied with it. I am convinced it is
the correct course. Under the topic “Physical Characteristics”
will be seen described what is demanded as correct shape. Study
that carefully, and frame the picture in a prominent section of
the mind, then compare with the stock intended for mating and

74

pair up as close to all points of quality as possible, always with
the side of preponderance on that of the male.

It is often important to be as well informed with regard to
defects, as with points of perfection. If anything, the former
give more trouble than the latter. To one specially significant (1
am not naming it a defect) I will call attention here—that of
“choppy behind.” This is an abrupt decline of the spinal bones
from a line across the hips to the root of the tail, giving the
animal, in many instances, almost an angular appearance. The
nearer an unbroken arch is shown by the spinal curve from
directly behind the shoulders to the root cf the tail, the better
will all other outlines harmonize. I doubt if this failing is much
a result of strain, as it is from small quarters and consequent
lack of jumping exercises.

Also avoid thick heads, lopped ears, and legs that stand
distinctly in or out.

I have often been asked as to the propriety of breeding from
stock that carries the tail sidewise. When specimens of high
quality are otherwise available I would not use such; but if a
specimen of excellent points in all other respects, with just this
one failing, I should not hesitate to use it—providing the anato-
my of the tail is perfect. Physical defects are always apparent
at birth, so that by careful examination of youngsters, all un-
promising ones can be destroyed. What will turn out as a
“twisted tail” can be clearly seen before the youngster is three
days old. It is anatomical malformation due to only partially
developed vertebrae, or the ligaments that hold them together.
But if the miniature tail shows straight at birth, and subse-
quently “floats” to one or the other side, it will be a condition of
habit or overgrowth, rather than a defect. I don’t like a “float-
ing tail,” but when there is no physical defect, an otherwise good
specimen should not be condemned on this account alone.

I have noticed that rapid growth, all the more when inten-
sified by humid warm weather, is a contributing factor toward
this failing. Likewise, inactivity enforced by small quarters.

Above all, do not mate specimens not in their full vigor.
Shape will be influenced by a diseased body.

Study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare

REMARKS—A Standard for judging Belgians should con-
stitute sufficient verbiage to make every passage clear and free
from misleading descriptives.

The true virgin hare, to whatever country it may be “indi-
genous” has never been domesticated, nor has it been hybridized

75

(so far as definitely known) by admixture of blood from any
species of either wild or domestic rabbit. The attempt was
made but failed, notwithstanding obvious claims.

In other words, the hare—lepus timidus—has maintained ~
its zoological identity quite as individual as the elephant, lion, or
the tiger.

The animal we breed under the name Belgian Hare is not
at all of the species lepus—it is purely a species of rabbit bred
to a high degree of perfection. Belgian (Belgium) breeders, I
believe, claim priority to this species; but in that country nothing
near approaching the type bred in England is produced, and Eng-
lish fanciers can justly claim title to its present perfection. The
Belgian Hare as reared in America (I mean the typical Belgian)
is entirely the product of breeding stock imported from England,
and it is the English species of it, so to say, that we must of
necessity propagate, unless we hybridize away from the hare
type and create an obvious one along rabbit lines.

We may be able to, by reason of climate environment, and
other possible influences, produce possibly somewhat of an
American ideal though I see no advantage nor likely consum-
mation in the attempt, nor would I advise it.

SIZE—!The classic breeder clearly understands what size has
to do with breeding the typical Belgian Hare. The uninformed
has not, and unless size is made a part of type and intelligently
standardized, it becomes objectionable in that it destroys the
hare characteristic. Hare type stands for raciness, and this can
not obtain when bulk is leading requirement; and there are not a
few, I am sorry to say, who think this sacrifice should be made,
and to whom I would suggest that if a large rabbit is desired for
utility purposes make one by hybridizing the Belgian and Flem-
ish, or Flemish and Silver.

I believe it would be considerable advantage to type if the
present weight of eight pounds were reduced a trifle, and a more
specific classification made. The following weights, I think,
would admit of all practical latitude for Standard results of
breeding for racy type:

Does. above 10: montis Old. 0. i. sees wun sues Woes 7 to 7% Ibs.
Does .8 to: 10 ments old. .4.5. jo5 clues ede axaki ue 6. tor%.. cabs:
Bucks above 10'months old .... . ....46a0sks acne tts 64eto 7 ‘Ibs.
Bucks ‘8'to 10 motiihatele oo. OC. Soe te aaa 6 to 6% Ibs.

All specimens under 10 months old to be considered as
youngsters, and for judging are classed by months limit of age
and rated by comparatives.

76

WHITE—There has been much discussion among foremost
fanciers as to how much white—understood as white-bellied and
grey haunches—should be tolerated to pass Standard criticism.

It is a fact that there evists an innate propensity in all ani-
mals of vari-colored fur coats.to change from dark to lighter
shade incident to season or age. The reason is a physiological
one, and should be considered when judging an animal of domes-
tic breeding if this characteristic is apparent. To allow certain
degrees of white and grey (with consideration of the above phe-
nomena) appropriately placed without jeopardizing the standard
body color, would appear admissable. In other words, a speci-
men answering to every characteristic of type and color features
should not be thrown out unless the white on belly and under jaw
and grey on haunches exceeds a qualified per cent. into the
other color (rufous). —

DEWLAP—This appendage is characteristic of the rabbit
species, and NOT of the hare. Its presence is evidence of
“breeding back” to an original rabbit strain. The nearer free
(and absolutely, if possible) a Belgian Hare strain is kept of it
by scientific breeding, the closer a pure hare type will it attain.
But since the present Belgian is withal NOT a hare per se, its
presence to a degree is justifiable, and should not debar a speci-
men from qualifying in its class. : ‘

[NOTE—The dewlap is not a deformity, nor a disqualifying
characteristic, unless so abnormally large as to make it such, and
clearly indicate the specimen to be entirely foreign to the Belgian
Hare type. It so happens that many otherwise good specimens
show this appendage in various degrees of development; but
which was not apparent prior to maternity, or a certain age,
which have reproduced others entirely free from it. These fac-
tors should be considered when judging; but a male specimen
with more than a mere evidence of dewlap, is to say the least,
undesirable as a stock-getter, and should be disqualified if it is
akin to that in a doe. The dewlap should not be confused with a
not infrequent udder-like enlargement of the breast incident to
maternity and which will disappear after the nursing period
(unless the doe is again soon bred).]

COLOR—Much discussion and sometimes very caustic, was
had as to what constitutes rufous red. According to some auth-
orities, it is a term that admits of a varied interpretation, and
the dictionaries define it as identifying a compound color.

The term rufous is from the latin rubro, meaning red. Spell-
ed r-u-f-u-s, is the technical Latin form and is translated r-u-f-
0-u-S, meaning a shade of red; but nowhere is any reason essayed

hs

why it should identify as brownish-red or a “red tinged toward
brown,” as dictionaries define the term.

Breeders, according to their fancy, contend for “Golden —

chestnut” as the correct shade; some say “golden tan” as still

more ideal, and others again say “chestnut tan’’—so on pro and ©
con, with no one exactly satisfied. Because of this contention, —

therefore, I make the term as clear as we at present understand
it. Brownish-red is all that can be analyzed out of the term
rufous, Of gold there is a light and dark shade according to per
cent. of alloy present; but virgin gold is a characteristic tinge,
shade or color, as you please, of specific identity. There is no
tinge just like it. Of tan and chestnut there are dégrees of
shade; but it is that shade defined as brownish-red with which
we have apparently to do and it is the degrees of intensity, there-
fore, of this latter tinge from light to dark that must constitute
one’s judgment of what we understand as rufous. To formulate
an ideal color effect in harmony with the conception of the term
one will reason thus—take virgin gold as the standard for red,
and the dark shade of a ripe chestnut for brown; tone down the
density of the latter with the mellow tinge of the former, and
you have rufous as it should show on the Belgian Hare.

TYPE—tThis term has also caused much discussion, all I
trow, due to either misconception or misunderstanding, or pos-
sibly both. A small knowledge of Natural History, Biology and
a bit of Comparative Anatomy, will harmonize definitives nicely
so we can apply the word shape as being more commonly clear.

In its compactness type virtually IS shape, though many will
haggle otherwise; but what I wish to convey by both (if you
please) is—the physical characteristics of the animal one ob-
serves as a whole, or perhaps more desirably, an ideal whole.
Literally it means “a stamp or mark”; that is, an impress, con-
tour, outline, or physical conformity to a prescribed pattern—if
the latter term is allowed. Color is a nominal characteristic; but
is not essentially a part of type. The type that should “stamp”
the Belgian Hare as ideal must portray raciness—slender, reachy
body, thin, firm and lengthy limbs; narrow, racy-looking head;
bright, bold, attentive eyes; ears long, thin, almost transparent,
and continually posed for attention—the animal altogether por-
traying a qui vive entirely free from sluggishness, slouch and
pudginess.

Official Belgian Hare Standard

Adopted by The National Pet Stock Association of America
(Same as the English Standard)
Points
COLOR—Rich rufous red (not dark smudy color) carried
well down sides and hind-quarters and as little white
PME AWS lS) TURSIDIC e aiet slats cS 5, god seventy 9,0) w 004 0 20
SHAPE—Body long, thin, well tucked up at flank and well
rigged up, back slightly arched, loins well rounded, not
choppy; head rather lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight,
not screwed; and altogether of racy appearance ........ 20

TICKING—Rather wavy appearance and plentiful ........ 10

EARS—About five inches long, thin and well laced on tips,
and as far down the outside edge as possible. Good color
’ inside and outside, and well set on .................05. 10

EYES—Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold ......... 10

LEGS AND FEET—Fore feet and legs long, straight, slen-
der, well-colored, and free from white bars; hindfeet well

Ma AMMA esa ats aye Ea icin he o 4p en spo ¢ Wale ial's Goole ai 10
LL SIR NEUDY DN 10 Sc oa eo 10
SIZE—Seven to Fight POUR, he. Pets See tty SY Ae. S 5
CONDITION—Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm like

9. race-horse, and a good quality of fur ................ 5

100

American Spotted Rabbit. Side Markings too small and
Indistinct, Saddle too broken. Cheek spots
Smaller and Round

72

Table of Weights

Below will be found a table of approximate weights of the

“meat” varieties, attainable by proper feeding and care. While
the weights here given are in some cases slightly in excess of
actual Standard requirements, the breeder should strive to attain
them, or even exceed them, and be satisfied with nothing less. .

3Mo. 4Mo. 5Mo._ 6 Mo. Maturity
Steel Grey Flemish
American Spots |
Solid Colored Giants
Grey Flemish--Bucks
Grey Flemish--Does 7tbs. 91bs.10% Ibs. 12 Ibs. 17 Ibs.
New Zealands 4% Ibs. 5tbs. 6 Ibs. 7 tbs. 11 Ibs.
Belgian Giants 5% tbs. Tibs. 8 Ibs. 9 tbs. 13 Tbs.

oe Ibs. 8% Ibs. 94% Ibs. 10% Ibs. 15 Ibs.

While the Belgian Hare is still classed as a meat, or utility
rabbit, and at one time easily held a position as leader among
the table or meat varieties, it has of late years been compelled to
yield a place in the front ranks for the Giant varieties and the
New Zealands. In the Belgian Hare, many of the qualities nec-
essary in a utility rabbit have been sacrificed for the sake of
fancy alone. To strive for a big carcass and tender meat in a
Belgian Hare would be to forever bar it from winning in the
show room. The hard racy appearance of the Belgian Hare can
only be attained by somewhat scant feeding and plenty of hard
exercise. For this reason no weights are given in above table
for the Belgian. Most of the winning specimens in the show
room weigh much less than that specified in the Standard. On
the other hand, we have never seen or heard of a competent
judge penalizing a Giant for overweight. The bigger, the better
chance of winning—everything else considered—providing the
weight is not obtained by an overly fat condition.

84

GE GP AF

Breeding, Building Up a Strain
and Inbreeding

By Dr. Roth

Associated with the breeding of every species of live stock
there is continually present this persistent bugbear that relates
to in breeding—the theories for and against it. Inherent within
one’s self, no one seems to like it, yet in the regular order of
breeding for specific points there appears no other way.

We all are repugnant of the idea associated with mixing
blood of relations, and when it comes to pairing father with
daughter, brother with sister, or son with mother, we just natur-
ally think it is dreadful.

Regarding such matings in the human family, both Bible and
Law has set a ban against it, yet it could not have been otherwise
than from such relationship that every species of living thing
emanated, if we are to believe the story of Creation, the Flood,
of doddering old Lot, and other instances of sacred and profane
history. But the subject is one that can be made a volume by
itself so that I shall limit myself conservatively.

One primary factor is, to what extent will psychological in-
fluence bear on sex combination. With regard to the human
species, science has evolved the knowledge of relationship be-
tween mind and matter, and it is believed the former can mater-
ially influence the latter, hence the social and legal ban against
the mingling of related blood.

In creatures of the animal kingdom psychology is supposed
to have no part, and therefore inbreeding can not influence tissue
formation. Mr. Noble says, “In the lower animals there is no
mental strain to take into consideration,” nor can there be any
knowledge among them that the remotest blood-relationship
exists.. I have in a number of instances observed, in dogs, we” ll
say, that a certain endowment of memory is apparent. After
considerable association, sudden separation for some period
(quite long, one would think), and subsequent coming together
again, joyful recognition was manifest; but the matter of blood-
relationship never seemed the least check to familiarity. Often,
also, have I noted the gradual growth of a litter of kittens, baby

81

pigs, a pair of pigeons, half a dozen puppies, a young lamb, and
a “nest” of Belgians, with a view to studying the length and per-
manency of filial relationship and parental affection; but in
every instance, so soon as the parent voluntarily “weaned” its
young, there was apparent no further consideration for it than
that of tolerated companionship, and often not that. In the
light of these facts, Mr. Noble practically asks, “I am still wait-
ing to know why I should not put together any pair of rabbits,
that from outward appearance, are perfectly suitable in every
respect, both physically and for producing exhibition points.”

Another breeder says, “I never consider blood-relationship
at all, and do not hesitate to pair father with daughter, or
brother with sister.”

In no country, perhaps, is inbreeding made a practice in the
rearing of live stock as is applied to every species of it in Eng-
land. It seems an obsession, and a sensible one, mayhap, over
there. Rabbits, and Belgians in particular, have been so long
inbred that Ambrose remarks concerning it, “We sometimes
think we are using quite another strain, when in reality we find,
on inquiry, that the stock is not far removed from those which
we ourselves are depending upon for success.”

I do not wish to set myself down authoritatively as individ-
ually advocating either cross-breeding, line-breeding, or in-breed-
ing—rather as remarking of each impartially; but I am not
averse to an acknowledgment, until better informed, that a care-
ful study, associated with personal experiments, of the more
recent points and developments relative to the breeding of live
stock, has modified my views largely in harmony with those of
Dr. Schroeder, Superintendent of the U. S. Bureau of Animal In-
dustry, who says, “I am strongly inclined to believe that the evils
attributed to inbreeding have been greatly over-rated.”

It is interesting to note what the U. S. Department of Agri-
culture is doing through its several subsidiary divisions by way
of experimenting along all principal lines that relate to mating
of the different species of domestic animals and fowls. Special
attention is given the Mendel theory, as laid down by the monk
of this name, whose work consisted entirely, it appears, in exper-
imenting with plants. Government experts believed that the law
discovered by hybridizing vegetables, and flowers, would hold
out with similar effect when applied to breeding live stock; and
while not carried far in this direction as yet, indications point to
successful results.

Briefly, the Mendel theory is that of “inheritance of ances-
tral traits,” or plainly that of inbreeding. It embodies the prin-
ciple of dominancy and recession in succeeding generations, and

82

implies, also, that each subsequent third generation in a lineal
descent is characterized by predominant physical points of merit
to determine in the ratio of three to one. That is, in a third gen-
eration there appear three “dominants” to one “recessive,” and
it is by mating continually out of the former that eventual per-
fection in thorough breeding is attained.

I have neither time or space to remark at length on the
numerous scientific points involved in line- and inbreeding, but
it appears the only logical course for the attainment of specific
characteristics.

There are three forms of breeding as classified by the terms
cross-breeding, line-breeding, and in-breeding. There are defined
as follows:

Cross-Breeding is the mating of two thoroughbred breeds
of diverse species, as the Hackney and Trotting horse, Alderney
and Holstein cow, Bulldog and Hound, Belgian and Flemish, or
Dutch and Silver, etc. Subsequent matings of such offspring can
be line- or in-bred.

Line-Breeding is mating individual specimens of a breed
when interruption in relationship exists by remoteness.

In-Breeding is the mating of closely related ones of the same
species.

Line-breeding is illustrated by the subjoined pedigree dia-
gram representing straight line descent for both sire and dam.
For convenience I will name two pair by Sheriden mated to
Bessie, and Roger to Queenie:

Bessie

Sheriden II
Sheriden

Bessie

Bessie III

Queenie IT

Roger

Sheriden IV z
Queenie

Roger IT
| Roger

Sheriden III :
——_—_—_—_____—_ Queenie

Bence:
I SHerden

In-breeding needs no illustration, since it implies the mating
of direct relations, as, father to daughter; son to mother; brother
to sister; father to daughter by brother and sister; mother to
son by daughter and brother, etc.

83

With regard to this latter form of breeding the U. S. Bureau
of Animal Husbandry has bred brother and sister mated in se-
quence order down to the 10th generation. Cavies being the
example, and regarding which Dr. Schroeder writes me, “We
have found nothing to indicate that the intensest form of in-
breeding, carried on for nine or ten generations, is injurious.
That for the preservations and perpetuation of especially fine
points, and for the establishment of new breeds through the
selection of naturally occurring mutations we are practically
forced to resort to in-breeding.”

It was apparent that the 9th generation in this instance was
represented by as good health, vigor and Standard points of
merit, as the parent stock of the 1st; and, if anything, all points
were finely accentuated. The experiment also appeared to show
a predominance of the “dominant” elements over the “recessive”
in every 3rd sequence.

Here is an example of absolute straight line descent without
a vestige of foreign blood from the second mating on, yet no
deterioration in a single element.

One factor stands out pre-eminently above all others in its
relation to breeding, no matter along what line the latter is
practiced—that of health, and the possibilities from heredity.
One should never mate specimens containing physical’ defects,
nor when affected with disease whose transmission is known to

influence the offspring. I am not alluding to physical faults, nor ~

to diseases that are curable by proper treatment. These will not
transmit defects; but in the event of in-breeding, essentially close
in-breeding, physical defects will likely be greatly accentuated,
and constitutional disease all the more.

To start breeding do not begin haphazard. Become ac-
quainted beforehand with the salient principles involved.

The indiscriminate mixing of blood lines without any knowl-
edge of results, is like trying to steer a ship without a rudder.
Don’t pin faith on the mere assertion that like reproduces like,
for unless one knows how Nature does this, she may shoot very
wide of the mark. She has immutable laws by which she works,
and reproduces defects just as likely as points of merit. She
dabbles intimately with the phenomena of heredity.

Study carefully the chapter that relates to physical charac-
teristics, and apply its qualifications to both sire and dam, with
their preponderance in favor of the former. This means all that
is embodied in shape and color. But when purchasing never ask
for a perfect specimen; for there is none. All domestic varieties
of rabbits are what they are by virtue of being “made” so, hence

84

(1 aa

;
;

imperfections continuously crop out. So when buying from a re-
liable fancier who is a real breeder, say to what you aspire
rather than just what you want; for it is not always that what
appears the most ideal specimens from a show Standard which
will reproduce their kind in exact duplicate. The matter of gen-
ealogy must never be forgotten, nor that of dominancy for the
prevailing traits. Buy from a breeder who understands the
science associated with the art of propagating a species,. then
build up one’s own strain.

Building up a strain implies a start with specimens selected
to represent certain qualities and then enlarging these by a
process of development and elimination. That is, points of merit
are to improve, and those of demerit bred out.

I am presuming one is starting out as a novice with the idea
of occupying a position in the Fancy. In such event, as said, buy
from a reliable fancier breeder whose strain has the reputation of
careful building up for a number of years. See that the stock is
free from constitutional disease. Select specimens that repre-
sent, at the present desire “golden tan,” or yellow rufous, and
those of the “chestnut tan” or real rufous. To maintain the
former persistently requires the latter. Neither in itself, will
breed true continuously without variation. The “golden tan” is
liable to shade into lighter, while the “chestnut tan” has a ten-
dency toward brown, with an excess of ticking; but by a careful
adjustment of blood lines in the two, one can always expect
desirable show specimens.

The matter of mating related specimens I leave for study
by the fancier after a careful perusal of the views brought out
in the foregoing remarks.

Black Giant. Good Color and Type

83

Pedigree

By Dr. Roth

This is also a bugbear that is not a specially creditable one
in the rabbit fancy. That it is discreditable is no fault of the
topic, and that contemptible fraud is practiced by falsifying the
lineage of a specimen does not prove that a record of blood lines
represented by a given strain is not the right thing to maintain.

I hold that, notwithstanding all the howl sent up by those
who antagonize pedigree, it is the only course for the main-
tenance of a true knowledge of one’s stock. I have not yet ob-
served one make a consistent argument against pedigree, and
those who are noisiest in antagonism are the most earnest to
know what they buy as represented in a reliable record of line-
age. That a faker can fake is quite true; but not more so than
that an honest breeder is honest. As a rule, a specimen carries
inherently the qualities it possesses, and these are always palp-
able to the informed observer who knows what they ought to be.

By all means keep a record of every animal bred along thor-
ough lines. Without a record of its lineage, what can be known
regarding its possibilities for the future. Deductions are impos-
sible without a recorded formula that leads to results. However,
any discussion of this topic is superfluous for the reason that it
is a universal rule among stock breeders of all varieties of
thoroughbred domestic animals, is the sole guide to success, and
if not maintained. one had as well do a market business from
the outset.

A Very Good English. The Chain Markings
Should Extend Nearer to Base of Ear, and
Body Markings are a Little Too Profuse

86

Feeding
By Dr. Roth

To be successful with rabbits depends perhaps more on prac-
tical and common sense feeding than any other feature connected
with their “bringing up.”

And on the other hand, I am safe in saying that more
losses of stock are directly attributable to carelessness or pos-
sibly overzealousness of it, than all other adversities. Indeed,
the rabbit is by nature, so singularly free from disease( and ver-
min) in any form, that whatever ailments are encountered in
various ways are nearly all traceable to some error in supplying
food.

Nearly every fancier and breeder of some import furnishes
a circular or brochure in response to an application or sale of
stock, and it is of considerable interest to read over the obvious
instructions vouchsafed in it, particularly with regard to feeding.
There are few directions in which all agree, and the variance
is so great that a beginner must become seriously confused,
with the chances of making mistakes very much in his favor.
Then, too, what one reads in the several magazines, which devote
space to rabbit topics is also of such wide range of opinion
that one at first sight must almost conclude that no fixed rule
for feeding exists, and that each manages tolerably near accord-
ing to his own notions. And, is such a conclusion far wrong,
I trow?

One breeder speaks of green things with utter fear—almost
dismay and uses only the littlest of little of it; another is more
liberal, but conservative in quantity, while a third gives as much
as the rabbits wish to eat, and all three get along without trouble,
apparently. ‘Some advise certain foods in the form of mash, any-
way from soft to dry, others feed no mash at all. Then growing
youngsters come in for special dieting up to a certain age, and
again they come in just the same as the old ones. Thus opinions
shift along, and the rabbits that don’t die from over-attention
may die for want of it, and the rest grow up.

But, seriously, feeding should be managed along intelligent
lines just as everything else—not overdone, nor underdone. Com-
mon sense comes nearer being pleasing to the rabbits than too

87

much concern or not enough. No matter what the creature may
be that one takes up for either fancy or utility purposes—from
the larger animals to the smaller pets—to be successful with
their “bringing up” the first essential is some knowledge of their
instincts and physical characteristics. In the case of the rabbit,
we know how it lives in the wild state, and that its domestication
was a gradual advancement from that into its present, which
should imply, that its food now cannot be greatly modified from
what it finds when compelled to hunt for it—summer and winter.
To know what this is should not be at all difficult; for a rabbit
exists about exactly as a sheep would were the latter to seek
food as an undomesticated animal. This holds good in the do-
mestic state as well. Feed the rabibts as one feeds sheep, and
there can’t be much room for error.

One instinctive characteristic of the rabbits and which to me
personally has been a guiding factor in the successful rearing of
it, is that it prefers to feed at night. Unless annoyed, the rabbit
in its wild state is quiet during the day, and the Belgian very
much so if undisturbed, and sees no one. I make it a rule to have
mine as little disturbed in daytime as possible, and in connection
with this thought I will give my method of feeding and the feed
I use.

My rabbits are never restless until approach of evening
“meal time” which is invariably at sunset. Then they are fed
sufficient that I know the stomach is full in the morning, and the
days of long nights, I give but one mess in 24 hours. They are
glad to see me in the morning, but not frantic for food, and all
they get is a swish of clover hay, or every third day something
green. With regard to the latter I am very particular that no
medicinal plants are fed. By instinct, a rabbit does not eat them
in the wild, but a domestic rabbit by being sometimes long de-
prived of greens, occasionally forgets himself. Dandelion is
injurious and plantain should be fed only sparingly. Turnips
and carrots are a good relish now and then; but hay-clover,
alfalfa, or timothy is most I feed, both green and cured. Mash
feed of any sort I don’t use, nor milk at all. Pure water is the
only liquid—twice a week in winter, and every day in summer.
Once a week I mix a teaspoon tincture of iron in half a bucket
of water—a tonic in a way, and keeps them slick. So far I had
no sickness among my stock.

(NOTE. Have received several requests for more definite
information on use of tincture of iron. Dr. Roth evidently re-
ferred to the ordinary ten or twelve quart pail. I usually pre-
scribe ten drops to a quart, which would be a teaspoonful to six
cuarts—about the same as evidently meant by above. C. R. D.)

88

My regular feed for the substantial evening mess consists of
bran, 1% parts; ground oats, 1 part; whole oats, 1 part; whole
wheat, % part; cracked corn, % part, and hominy % part, thor-
oughly mixed. Young and old are fed alike, except as to quan-
tity per animal. Of course, I expect many to differ with my
method, and I shall not object. I have my reasons for feeding
this way; my pets are happy, and healthy, and sleek as eels; and
as said, were well since I have them. I might add that twice a
week I mix a tablespoonful fine salt to four quarts of feed as an
elementary essential. Some breeders keep a lump of rock-salt in
the run—a serious mistake I think—for salt is a poison in an
over indulgence, and causes bowel trouble. I do no exhibiting at
shows, but such as do, usually devote some extra attention to
feeding in the hope of developing extra sheen in the “coat,”
and a brisker appearance in general. In England, this is done
to quite some degree, and not a few enterprising parties advertise
“just the thing to make you win.” It is the same in this country
and as a precaution wish to say that all “condition” feeds and
powders are injudicious extras prepared from business motives,
and buyers should know that the various cereals and vegetables
which constitute the food of grain eating animals contain all
the nutrient nature intended they should have. Feeds containing
condiments or medicinal ingredients should always be used with
discretion, and all mixtures of this sort that ever came under my
notice were merely a combination of the grains usually fed in-
dividually in a way, with either cottonseed meal, gluten in dis-
guised form, or sugar obviously prepared, added, with all of
which the well informed breeder is likely acquainted beforehand.
These mixtures cost more than regular feed, but are they worth
more? One important consequence should be persistently re-
membered with regard to the use of prepared feeds—they usually
contain stimulating material in some form—an unnatural effect
upon flesh tissue—the re-action from which is always detrimental
far in excess to the apparent benefit. The only safe line of
correct feeding lies along the course laid out by the physiological
laws in nature.

A few paragraphs ahead I spoke of feeding no milk in any
form to my stock. I don’t like it, and found no occasion to do so.
Many, however, do, and I do not wish to advise specially against
the use of it as a food. I receive numerous inquiries along all
lines of interest in breeding rabbits, and among them are many
asking the advisability or propriety of using it for young and
old stock. The great danger of feeding milk lies in chemical
changes. That it is a good feed for young stock is true, but
remember, young rabbits in the wild state don’t have it after the

89

mother forsakes them. Milk as a diet for young animals was
not intended for them longer than the parent supplies it. If
one does feed it after weaning the brood, great care is required
that it is perfectly “fresh,” and only so much given as will be
consumed at once. Let none sour in the dish, for sour milk is
acid, and causes what in rabbits is known as “slobbers”—a very
annoying trouble. Remember, too, it is an animal fluid, and not
identical to water as a liquid. Ptomaine poisoning is possible
from it. If mixed with dry feed of any sort, be sure that the dry
feed contains nothing that will cause chemical changes in the
milk. With these precautions in mind, it can safely be used as a
feed. I have on several occasions noticed “directions” for feeding
cabbage. Some eschew it as a poison for rabbits, while others
feed it freely. It is not a poison, and rabbits are fond of it,
especially as a green food in winter; but, like all things, don’t
overfeed, and be sure it was not treated with a paris-green solu-
tion against worms in its early growth; nor previously frozen.

Potatoes I never feed, nor do rabbits care for them. Boiled
and crumpled in with dry feed, they should not be objectionable;
but I consider them too rich in starch unless fed very sparingly.
Sweet-potatoes are not as rich in starch as “white,” and are
somewhat allied to carrots. I feed them sparingly when I have
no carrots or turnips. Indeed, all greens should be fed with
caution against excess. In summer time when clover is plenty,
I feed it daily in conjunction with cured hay—mornings—but it
must be fresh cut. Wilted grass, for obvious reasons, is objec-
tionable. Because greens are so plenty during the summer sea-
son there is grave danger in overfeeding bunny with it, and I
have observed that paralysis is one of the results by losing sev-
eral valuable young on an occasion when I was called away pro-
fessionally for three or four consecutive days, while the chil-
dren enjoyed themselves “tending bunny while you was ’way,
papa.”

Cleanliness is just as essential for the maintenance of
healthy stock as regularity and quality of feeding.

To render one’s stock a pleasure and profit one must have
no smaller measure of enthusiasm, which implies, that what is
worth doing at all is worth doing well, as some moralist has it.
No man can be a true fancier or successful breeder and make a
name for himself unless he diffuses enthusiasm throughout his
hobby. Every creature reared for man’s pleasure and benefit
must be made comfortable if its most perfect physical character-
istics are to be expected.

90

——

Hutches
By Dr. Roth

This means a chest, box, case, or bin, in which rabbits are
kept. The little creatures are not at all particular as to dimen-
sions, style, or expense laid out to keep them; but with rabbits,
as with the care of all other animals, if one desires to get on well
with them it is essential that they are kept with regard to com-
fort and cleanliness. It does not matter, either, whether reared
for fancy or utility purposes, comfort and cleanliness count as
much for one as the other, because both are absolutely essential
to bring up a beautiful animal as well as a useful one.

The character of the hutches depends on the number of rab-
bits one intends to rear, and say any number upwards of twenty, .
the most ideal method is to have them side by side, so built with
wire netting that they can see each other. The matter of size is
optional, and should be arranged in harmony with the number to
be kept in one compartment. Some breeders build their hutches
one tier above the other, no doubt as a matter of economy,for
space. This method is objectionable for sanitary reasons, not-
withstanding every effort to have the floor above unleakable
tight.

As said, with reference to feeding, so in this—keep as close
to nature as one can possibly manage, and this implies, that a
bare space on the ground is nearest right. Here again I will give
my method of housing my pets—not essentially as an authority—
but as information for the beginner. I keep a tier of four roomy
hutches specially built for four breeding does. These I had made
out of two piano boxes sawed in halves and set ends on, with each
an outside run, making the room occupied by one doe 244x3 in-
side, and 3x4% outside, and 2 feet high along the lowest roof-
line. The nest boxes are fastened on the outside along the back
(entire length) a foot wide, and one and one-half high, with a
sloping roof cover on hinges. Thus arranged, one can examine
the nest without disturbing the doe, besides being convenient for
cleaning.

As a precaution against rats I built the floor one foot from
the ground, and space partition and pen surrounding of one-inch
mesh wire netting. The wood bottom floor is kept covered with

91

straw inside, and outside with sand and fine straw. Of course,
my breeding hutches are quite roomy to be occupied by a single
doe to each compartment, and smaller spaces by one foot every
way would answer nearly as well; but if you have the room to
spare, make bunny happy with space for needful exercise, espec-
ially for the babies up to weaning time.

It is a ‘rule with me to breed at least two does a few days
apart, so the young can be penned together after removal from
the mother.

My large runs for the growing youngsters are so far, four
in number, 2% feet wide, and 18 long, with a “hiding” box at the
far end. These have ground floors covered with 2 inch mesh wire
netting—no, they don’t dig through this—they try it once, that’s

FIG 1 A Convenient Rabbit Hutch

bucks, four for emergency, and four smaller ones for hospital
purposes. I also have a prison for unruly tyrants. All these
occupy a ground space of 24x30 feet, which is entirely covered
with a roof of tar-paper fastened on skeleton frame-work as a
protection from the elements and hot sun in summer, of course,
strict attention is given to thorough disinfection aside from the
regular cleaning. For this I use the commercial (crude) carbolic
acid, which is sprinkled along the sides and corners, inside and
out. Droppings are cleaned out every alternate day in summer
and once a week in cold and freezing weather. In short, the
hutches must be kept clean, dry and disinfected, so I can go out
any time, take up a bunny and handle it without soiling my hands
or clothes.
92

all. Besides these, I keep ten extra hutches—two for individual ¢

Now, this is my way of doing things, and as previously
noted, no sickness has as yet given me trouble of any sort.

In England, the breeding of rabbits is recognized as a fancy,
upwards of half a century, and in the past twenty years has re-
ceived more scientific attention than in any other country, and
while individual breeders do not perhaps conduct rabbitries on so
large a scale as some in America, there are more devoted to it.
In breeding the Belgian Hare special attention is given to the
racy type so characteristic of the English wild hare, and to this
end the hutches of this variety are built high, rather than wide
and long. This is a commendable idea, and goes far toward
obviating crouchiness, with the accompanying tendency to de-
velop the objectionable dewlap. Various contrivances, also, are
resorted to with a view to the development of ideal points such

as placing a board cross-wise in the run a foot or so high for
jumping exercise, which is supposed to give length of limb, span
from shoulder to sacrum (across hips), well set ears, and tuck-up
of flank. Feed boxes are built to compel a stretch of the neck
in order to reach the food, another factor toward creating length.
Such adjuncts are of course, only novelties toward an end; but
are indeed essential for obviating objectionable tendencies and
training out desirable ones. Then, too, many fanciful ideas can
be carried out in constructing hutches which go far to give the
breeding an appearance of taste in commendable harmony with
the spirit implied by the term Fancy.

Breeding on a large scale necessarily requires space com-
mensurate with the number one’s quarter is to contain, and in all

93

events must be so that the timid ones in a batch have room to
evade the tyrants akways found among it. Absolute freedom
for exercise is an essential in utility breeding as well as fancy.

To breed on a small scale and with limited space individual
specimens should, if at all possible, never be given less room than
4 feet long, 1% wide and 2 to 3 high. This is, for such who desire
only a few specimens for occasional table use, and while rearing
them thus they will do well when sensibly attended—in open or
closed quarters—they do best of all with as much room as one
can spare.

A convenient indoor hutch (Fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 feet, with a
movable partition dividing off a third of the space at one end
for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition has a smooth
hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to the other.

FIG.3 A Simple Movable Outdoor Hutch

The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire netting, the
other of wood. The wooden door leads to the sleeping chamber
and should close tightly. It is best to use metal hinges for the
doors. The partition may slide in a groove between the doors or
may be put in and taken out through one of the door openings.

Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging
eaves to protect them from rain. The screen door should have
a sliding cover of wood or be fitted with a removable cloth cover.
Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afford all neces-
sary ventilation.

Movable hutches (Fig. 2) have some advantages. They may
be carried outdoor in fine weather and taken back under shelter

94

at night during storms. Long, narrow cleats projecting at both
ends of the hutch are all that are needed to convert the ordinary
hutch into a movable one. Two forms of outdoor hutch some-
times used are shown in Figures 3 and 4. That in figure 3 has
no floor except a wire screen, permitting the rabbits to eat grass.

In conclusion of this topic on hutches allow me to emphasize
again the positive necessity of cleanliness and disinfection,
whether the room occupied be large or small; for once sickness
gets among a herd its eradication is often a serious trouble. An
excellent disinfection, as well as a point of cleanliness, is to
whitewash all board-work with a lime solution strongly impreg-
nated with crude carbolic acid and if a handful of salt is added

FIG.4 A Simple Outdoor Hutch

to the lime while slacking hot, its “sticking” and lasting quality
is greatly enhanced. By following along the lines here explained,
the housing of rabbits will be a matter of comfort and success,
with every possible source of disease eliminated.

An Ideal Rabbitry

By C. R. Deardorff

There are many styles of rabbit houses, good, bad and in-
different. Some have been built with the sole idea of keeping
“bunny” warm; some with the idea of getting the largest pos-
sible number in the smallest possible space without any regard
to ventilation; some to the other extreme of a large and expen-
sive house with few hutches; and some with no definite idea at
all. These are all radically wrong. The rabbit does not need,
nor does it succeed in a warm building. All it needs is protec-
tion from drafts, storms, excessive heat and strong sunlight.
Given these, together with correct sanitation and feeding meth-
ods, and we need not give a thought to any cold less severe than
20 degrees below zero. It is true that warmth is necessary to
obtain great earage in the Lops, and great size in the Giants, but
if warmth is obtained at the expense of ventilation and pure air
—then earage and size is obtained at the expense of vitality.

It has been demonstrated and proven that the “open front”
style is the only really successful method of housing. In this
style, the rear end and both sides are boarded up tight, and the
front mostly or entirely open, being covered only with close mesh
wire netting to keep out rats, mice, birds, etc. Burlap or muslin
covered frames are provided to close the openings in stormy or
extremely cold weather. These curtains, by reducing the rapid
circulation of the air, tend to retain the warmth generated by
the animals’ bodies, and at the same time permit the escape of
impure air through the pores of the fabric.

Many are building long houses with tiers of hutches run-
ning lengthwise of the building, at the rear, and a long aisle
running entire length of building in front of hutches. This is
much better than a closed house, but has some serious objections.
In the first place, it is expensive. Did you ever stop to figure
that a long house takes much more material than a square one
of the same capacity?

Another objection is that the long house is subject to bad
drafts, unless partitions are built every 12 or 14 feet.

To overcome these objections, and at the same time retain
all the advantages of the “open front” house, I have devised
and offer in this chapter, plans and specifications of my Ideal
Rabbitry.

96

Bill of Materiai

2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 14 ft. for end sills.

2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 16 ft. for side sills.
13 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for studding.

4 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 16 ft. for plates.

7 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 16 ft. for rafters.

3 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for uprights.
315 sq. ft. roof sheathing.
450 sq. ft. drop sidi.g, 14 ft. and 16 ft. lengths.

3 rolls roofing.

14 feet, 42 inch poultry netting, 1 inch mesh, for front.
20 lineal feet 14% in. by 4 in. for door frame.

1 set:—lock, latch and hinges.
hutches:—:
420 sq. ft. flooring, 12 ft. lengths.
350 lineal feet 1xz, foi door frames.
115 lineal feet % 1:.ch mesh wire, 18 inches wide, for doors.
12 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 12 ft. face strips to hang doors on.
3 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. for bottom of partitions under
hay racks.

4 pieces 1 in. by 8 in. by 14 ft. uprights in front of hay racks.

9 pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. hutch floor joists.

97 feet, two foot poultry netting, one inch mesh, for hay
racks and long partition in middle group of hutches.

24 pair 3 inch T hinges.

Sills may be laid on cement blocks, better yet built on solid
concrete foundation. Floor may be of dirt, cinders or concrete.
In either case build it up 4 to 6 inches inside of foundation to
make it dry. No provision on above bill for foundation on floor.
If wood floor is desired, add for floor joists and flooring, but such
floors not advised on account of affording harbor for rats. Use
16D wire spikes to nail studding, plates, etc., 7D wire nails for
siding, sheathing, hutch floors, facing strips, ete.—door hinges,
latch and lock to suit your fancy.

For

ra

Cornice, frieze, corner boards, outside casing, etc., have not
been provided for, as they are not absolutely necessary, but are
very desirable if it can be afforded, to make an attractive out-
side appearance.

Floor Plans of Idea] Rabbitry
Dimensions, 14 feet by 16 feet; Shed roof; Rear wall, 6 feet
high, front wall 742 feet high; Each hutch, 2% feet by 5% feet
floor space, and 22 inches high; Three tiers of hutches—total
number, 24. One front corner for feed bins, the other for baled
or loose hay; If loose hay, put in an upright to keep hay in

97

place. Cover top hutches, and space above, toward front ends,
may be used to store extra feed and water dishes, ete. Make a
conditioning, or work table, with drop legs, under either, or both,
screened openings—each about 16 inches wide by 30 inches long.

Studding is to be set to suit dimensions of hutches, note
location as shown on Fig. 1. In cutting studding, observe that
the pieces as billed are 14 ft. long—and that one piece cut will
make one rear and one front studding. Double corner studding,
also on each side of door.

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Plates are to be laid double on front and rear walls—none
needed on sides.

Rafters spaced 32 in. center to center.

Uprights are to be cut as follows: Four of them to reach
from floor to top of top hutch, and placed one at each front out-
side corner of hutches to support hutches. The other two are to
be cut to reach from floor to bottom edge of middle rafter to
help support roof and hutches of middle group.

In building the hutches, hutch floor joist should be 2% feet
long for side tiers, and 5 feet long for middle group of hutches.

98

Screened

Opening

“Spike to studding and uprights, excepting middle joist can be
spiked only on studding end on outside tiers, and to middle up-
right in middle group. The outside end of these middle joists are
to be supported by face strips and one by eight uprights as
shown in Fig. 2.

Run floor lengthwise and nail to joist with groove edge to-
ward front. Plane front board to a square edge and let it pro-
ject over and come flush with front top edge of face strip.

To get the proper slope to floor for drainage, rip a strip
from the top edge on each end of the 5 foot joist, 1% inches wide
at the end to a point at the middle. The 2% foot joist may be
ripped the same way, or simply lower the outer end 1% inches.

Removable nest boxes should be provided. A good one is
a box 18 in. long, 12 in. wide and 12 in. high, with a removable
cover. The top of this box provides a good place for the mother

End of Fleer Jois®

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Bottom Fartition Goarg
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doe to retreat from too persistent youngsters. A hole, cut from
top edge, 8 in. deep and 6 in. wide, furnishes means of ingress
and egress.

The above drawing shows construction of front of hutches,
hutch door, and feed rack partition. Note also location of end
of floor joist. This does not show in the completed work, the
face strip being nailed into end of joist, and then the two 1 by 8
uprights nailed on, edge to edge as shown. Before nailing on
the uprights, cut the pieces as billed, into 7 foot lengths, then
hold up and mark at the bottom of each face strip; cut in 4 inches
and rip off triangular piece as shown, and then place the two
boards with cut edges together as shown, to form openings to
hay racks. These uprights, together with the face strip, sus-
tain weight of outer end of middle floor joist, the other end be-
ing nailed to studding.

Partitions of hutches are made by using a piece 1 in. by 4 in.
at bottom and stapling one inch mesh poultry netting to top

99

edge on each side, extending to top of hutch and attaching about
five inches back from the vertical, thus forming a V shaped hay
rack about ten inches wide at the top, and running to a point
at the top of the four inch bottom strip. This rack can be used
from either or both sides, and is easily filled through the V shap-
ed opening in the upright boards, without opening any doors or
other contrivance—a great saver of time.

Attach the wire netting to door frames on the inside, so
rabbits will not gnaw corners of frames.

Front Elevation of Ideal Rabbitry
The entire front is sided up 2% feet from the bottom, and
extends three feet from each corner the balance of the way up.
The door should be not less than 2 ft. 8 in. wide, and upper part
covered with wire netting as shown. The two wire covered
openings should be exactly the same size, so muslin covered
frames are interchangeable.

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A “hood,” two feet wide and twelve feet long, may be ex-
tended from top of front, projecting over the door and openings.
This will keep out rain and snow under ordinary conditions, with-
out having to put up the muslin covered frames, and is very de-
sirable in sections where sudden or severe storms prevail.

Advantages claimed for the Ideal, over the long type house
are: First, Economy: The long type house, to contain the same
amount of hutch room requires 720 lineal feet dimension stuff;
the Ideal, but 490; The long type, 101 feet foundation; the Ideal,
60 feet. The long type, 682 sq. ft. side wall; the Ideal, 405. The
long type, 299 sq. ft. roof; the Ideal, 255. The long type, 247
feet floor; the Ideal, 224. The long type requires on an average
about 45 per cent. more material than the Ideal, an item worth
considering. —

Second, Convenience: In the long type, one would have to
walk 90 feet to inspect the entire rabbitry and return to the

100

e

door; in the Ideal, only 40 feet. In the long type, it is 45 feet
from the door to the farthest point in buildings; in the Ideal, but
15 feet. In the long type, one can clean three hutches, or fill
three hay racks without moving from his tracks; in the Ideal, he
can attend to twice that number—each side of aisle.

Third, Adaptability: The long type house is too narrow to
be practical for hardly any other purpose. Supposing one gives
up rabbit raising at some time in the future, or wishes to sell,
and prospective purchaser is not interested in rabbits, then the
building is not much of an asset. A building less than twelve
feet wide is not suitable even for a hen house.

The Ideal is of dimensions that it can be easily and economi-
cally converted to use for many different purposes—poultry
house, tool house, storage room, wagon and buggy shed, garage,
cow barn, sheep shed, etc., etc., according to individual needs of
owne%.

Fourth, Superiority in Light and Ventilation: In the long
type house with the entire front open, plenty of ventilation is
obtained, but is rather drafty. On stormy days, there is an ex-
cess of openings that must be closed with muslin curtained
frames. In hot weather, there is an excess of light and heat,
and awnings must be provided to shade the hutches. On the
other hand, if the front is partly closed then drafts are prevent-
ed, but part of the hutches are protected from the sun’s hot
rays, and part are not; while the ventilation is unequally dis-
tributed.

In the Ideal, there is no hutch that does not receive direct
light at some time during the day; none but what are entirely
shaded part of the day, and at least partly shaded all of the
time. The ventilation is perfect, reaching every corner of the
building without possibility of a draft. In stormy and extreme-
ly cold weather, there are only three small curtained frames to
place, as compared with four times that in the other type house.

The bill of material, instructions, and cuts shown herewith
will enable anyone with ordinary mechanical ability to construct
his own rabbitry without hiring expensive labor. If one wishes
to increase the size of his rabbitry, he can easily add one or
more units at any time. Simply remove the feed rack or bins at
either corner, cut an opening through, and build on another unit
at that end. In this case, the siding on that end should not be
removed, as it is needed to prevent drafts—simply cut an open-
ing large enough for a door. Each unit added should be just
like the original, excepting of course, the expense of one side
wall will be saved, and the front door on added units may be
dispensed with, using a wire covered opening instead.

101

Yards

By C. R. Deardorff
Natural conditions, as nearly as it is possible to provide
them, will go far toward assuring good health and vigor in
rabbits, just as with poultry and other stock. If one has room
to arrange outdoor runs or yards for his rabbits, he will be
amply repaid, not only in the increased health and vigor of his
stock, but he will find the problem of care reduced to a minimum.

For breeding does, outdoor hutches may be built, as outlined
in the preceding chapter, which may be greatly improved by
attaching a movable yard to be used therewith. A good plan is
to build a pen, or cage, about 3 feet wide and three feet high, and
six to ten feet long. Use 1 by 4 stuff to make the frame, cover
top and bottom with two inch poultry mesh, both sides and one
end with one inch mesh. At the open end place the nest box,
making some convenient arrangement for feeding, watering, etc.
The nest box should be raised from the ground a few inches, and
made damp-proof and draught-proof, and should be easily de-
tached from yard to facilitate handling and moving. This out-
fit can be moved from place to place on a grassy plot, and thus
avoid contaminating the ground, as well as providing bunny
with fresh grass to nibble at every day. A splendid hutch to use
with such a yard can be arranged by taking a good water-tight
barrel, knocking out the side bung and covering hole on inside
with wire screen. Place this barrel on supports hollowed out to
fit the side of barrel, with bung-hole side down, to provide for
drainage.

Another good plan, but one involving more expense, is to
build a series of narrow yards, say 3 or 4 feet wide, and as long
as space and means will permit. Previous to building your
yards, level the ground nicely, cover the space to be used with
two inch poultry mesh and on top of the mesh spread an inch or
two of good soil. Seed this down with a good grass suitable to
the locality, or “sod” it over with cut sod. When well sodded you
are ready for your yards, which should be built of one inch net-
ting and covered with two inch netting to keep out cats. Build
individual hutches, each two feet wide, two feet high and three
feet long, with a nest box in one end from 12 to 18 inches wide
(according to the size of your rabbits) and 12 inches high. The

102

top board of this nest box should be removable to permit examin-
ation and cleaning of the nest. This top board also provides
a retreat for the mother when the youngsters persist in annoy-
ing her after leaving the nest. With such a system, it is neces-
sary to provide yards in excess of the number of breeding does,
so no one yard need be used continuously, else the sod would be
destroyed. The hutches should be located at the end of the yards
- and moved along from yard to yard as the grass becomes ex-
hausted. If one has a good sod, one hutch to every three yards
would probably be sufficient in most cases.

The expense can be considerably reduced by dispensing with
the sodding, but in that case the bottom wire should be placed at
least six inches beneath the surface, and the soil to the depth of
about five inches renewed at least twice a year to prevent con-
tamination of the soil with disease germs. In this case it will
not be necessary to build individual hutches, but instead build
one long continuous hutch two feet high and two wide and divide
into compartments as long as the width of the yards. The roof
should be divided into sections and hung on hinges to provide
access to each compartment.

Several yards should be provided for the youngsters after
they are weaned so that those of nearly an even age only need
be yarded together. These yards should be enclosed with one
inch mesh sunk into the ground an inch or two, and should be
covered with two inch mesh to keep out cats, or if one has rather
large yards, he can save expense and serve the same purpose by
attaching horizontal pieces about a foot long and extending out
from top of post. Let the netting of the fence turn outward at
the top of post and extend to the ends of these cross-pieces. This
will form an angle over which a cat cannot crawl, and will form
a very effective protection. It will not be necessary to cover the
bottom of these yards with netting as rabbits do not dig until
approaching maturity.

Separate the males from the females as soon as the sex can
be determined. If any of the males are to be castrated, they may
be left with the females or turned with the males—it does not
make much difference, although if breeding on a somewhat large
scale, it would be advisable to provide a separate yard for cas-
trated bucks.

To maintain peace among the rabbits in the yard system it
must be remembered that strange rabbits must not be turned
with another bunch after they have reached a “scrapping” age. If
found necessary to unite several lots, it may sometimes be ac-
complished without much trouble by putting the whole lot
together in a new location, but never by putting a lot with an-

103

other lot in a location already occupied for some time by any of

the bunch. The older residents will resent the coming of the ©

others. By putting the whole lot in a strange location, they will

usually be so occupied with their curiosity of their strange sur-
roundings that they may forget their animosity toward each
other. This scheme will, however, seldom work with breeders
that have become accustomed to separate hutches.

Bucks will often get along amicably together long after-

reaching maturity if yarded at some distance from the does, and
not used for breeding.

The necessary number of hutches should be scattered aroun]
the yards to provide shelter from the weather, and should be
damp-proof and draught-proof. They may be of most any style
pleasing to the breeder, but should be of small size and numer-

ous, rather than one big hutch, so the more timid ones may

secure seclusion from those that are inclined to be pugnacious.
The writer has found it to be a most satisfactory practice to set
up a few fodder shocks around in the yards of the half-grown
and more mature animals. This provides not only an ideal shel-
ter and place of refuge, but abundant rough feed, which accomp-
anied by a little extra feed to vary the diet, will carry a bunch
of rabbits through the winter in fine shape.

We will close this chapter by giving a little stunt the writer
has tried out in a limited way, to prevent rabbits from digging
and also to prevent fighting to a certain extent—or at least pre-
vent serious damage from fighting. The system can only be used
on animals not intended for the show room, as the operation dis-
qualifies them. It has been found to work very satisfactorily in
most cases, and is simply this: Clip the end off each toe-nail just
so it brings a tiny drop of blood.

Will just add that snuffles and its kindred diseases are
strangers in a rabbitry conducted intelligently and systematically
on an out-door System.

104

Preparation for Show Room

By Dr. Roth
The inherent desire within the breast of man is to produce
something just a little better than his brother, to show it just a

little better than his brother, and to win just a few more blue

ribbons in keen competition in the show room.

When one desires to exhibit at shows with the hope of win-
ning prizes, some special attention to stock beforehand is neces-
sary and if several consecutive exhibitions are scheduled one
must not forget that such journeys with their incident “wear
and tear” will be a severe tax on the constitutional stamina of
finely bred specimens. Many an excellent rabbit has been de-
stroyed by overshowing, or insufficient attention connected with
the journey. And we have no short distances of shipment, either,
nor do the express companies run special cars for exhibits of
this sort. Reading over the excellent show reports by our Eng-
lish fancier friends, I was often amused at the concern that
occupies them with regard to distances, which at most is rarely
beyond 200 miles, and seldom above 50. Here we are obliged to
consider time rather than distance, and very seldom, except with
small local shows, that less than 600 miles are involved.

Make careful selection of the specimens intended for exhibi-
tion, and say 4 or 5 days before date of shipping, place each sep-
arately in a coop as near the size to be occupied at the show as
one can arrange, and something within about 10 degress as warm
as one would think the show room to be. This consideration is
quite necessary, and all the more so when stock has been open-
air reared. The fact that rabbits are fur animals, and thus quite
densely clothed, seldom finds thought in the heads of show com-
mittees, who more often place such exhibits in steam heated
rooms than a proper environment.

Coops containing exhibits must be kept scrupulously clean
so as to obviate all danger of soiling the fur, which should every
morning be liberally sprinkled with talcum powder, nicely tous-
led through as to get near the skin, and then combed and brush-
ed until the powder is all worked out. First two days use a
wire brush, and subsequently a medium soft bristle. Use no
water or cosmetics of any kind unless there is some disease of

the skin that needs attention. Under the chin and belly stroke

105 :

the fur with a small round stick shaped like a baton or drum- —
stick. This will bring out contour to the head and body, and
acquaint the specimens with the pose expected by the judge.
This attention must be applied only to bucks of the Flemish var-
iety, and not to does. The latter must be stroked entirely by
hand, and the dewlap gently manipulated, so as to assume cor-
rect position and shape—evenly placed beneath the chin,

There is a popular notion that raw egg fed to a fur animal
will produce “sleek coat,” and that gunpowder fed to a horse
will increase his action. Now while many of these “notions”
appear amusing, and often quite worthless, there are others,
withal, that have more practical sense than humor; for in the
above there exists no small physiological virtue. Egg, we know,
is rich in albumen, and gunpowder in the necessary reconstruc-
tive elements—carbon, potash, nitrate, phosphorus, and sulphur,
which enter into tissue construction of which nerve and muscle
is made up.

Raw egg can be given in the form of flip, which is ‘made by
beating one in a cup of sweet milk, add a teaspoonful of sugar,
and two tablespoons of Sherry wine or brandy. If the animal
will not drink this out of a dish, it can be given by spoon, or
pipette.

Whole wheat added to oats is also excellent a few days be-
fore showing. It is rich in gluten, and this latter puts “bloom”
on the fur. .

After return from the show, an egg-flip is again a good
“nick-me-up” for the effects of wear.

Have the shipping coops sufficiently roomy so as not to
crowd, floor well littered with saw dust or chaff, and ventilation
for comfort.

In the Belgian Hare the animal should be long and thin, both
in body and limbs. The ears should be long and carried well
backward. There should be practically no ticking at the selection
age, say three or four months. The hind feet should be level in
color, the same being carried well up the hock. One mistake is
often made in selecting specimens that show choppiness, but my
advice is to get rid of these at all costs. You have here a small
gauge to select promising youngsters by. After having made
your selection they should be placed in large, roomy hutches, fed
on stimulating diet and should have every care and attention paid
them. Don’t understand this to apply to all varieties of rab-
bits, for it is my intention to apply the above only to the Belgian
Hare. What would be necessary in the selection of the Belgian
Hare would be fatal to a Flemish Giant. Condition, however,
must not be misunderstood. It does not represent fat or bulky

106

’

station. It appeals to me as a means whereby specimens exhib-
ited may be shown in a state representing a high standard of
excellence, consistent with the points of the variety.

In all varieties shape must be given first consideration and
it is absolutely necessary that youngsters be given as much
exercise as possible. It is well to construct a running hutch with
a jumping board across the middle, compelling them to race
around the hutch and in jumping over the hurdle they will harden
the flesh and decrease the size of the stomach. The exercise, too,
is also important to increase the length of limb. Many English
breeders in preparing choice youngsters for exposition, or when
the specimens are under a great strain, advocate the use of ‘egg
flip. Give each rabbit a teacupful for the evening meal. While
for the morning meal, give a little green stuff and the best oats
and wheat mixed, two-thirds oats, one-third wheat, while a little
clover hay should be added to the morning or midday meal.

One of the great secrets of success is in proper grooming.
With the short coated varieties a thorough rub with the bare
hands, following it up with a dry chamois skin, is all that is nec-
essary. There is nothing better than a low table to use for
grooming. Cover it with a piece of carpet or clean sack, nailing
it down so that the specimen may have something to grip on to
with his feet. You will find this a comparatively easy way to ~
groom them. When the specimens are moulting they should be
groomed at least once a day and their housing should be care-
fully looked after for they are very susceptible to cold at this
time. Place the specimen on the table and vigorously rub the
coat in the direction in which it lies and persevere until all the
loose coat is removed, finishing off with briskly rubbing the speci-
men all over with a dry chamois skin. Belgian Hares need a
little attention to the fore legs when moulting its young coat. It
should be held firmly by the ears and the other hand should be
used to pull the legs one at a time, allowing the hand to slip
so that all the loose fur may be removed. Under no considera-
tion resort to plucking for this is altogether outside the province
of grooming and can at once be detected by any competent judge
and the specimen would be disqualified. Specimens thus handled
have the advantage of not only being well groomed but at the
same time, well trained and this is absolutely necessary for suc-
cess in the show room. There is nothing more trying to a judge
than to have a wild, restless, untrained specimen to handle, and
in many instances specimens have gone down that if properly
handled before the show, would have been easy winners.

The Rabbit Hospital and
Medicine Chest

By C. R. Deardorff

Every well regulated rabbitry should have its hospital ward
and medicine chest. For your hospital ward, a few hutches may
be partitioned off from the others in your regular rabbitry, or,
better yet, built in a corner of some convenient building at some
distance from your rabbitry. These hutches should be well ven-
tilated, without being drafty, and should be kept scrupulously
neat and clean, These hospital hutches, as well as the entire in-
side of your rabbitry, should be painted with a good disinfecting
white water-mixed paint, or prepared whitewash. For this pur-
pose nothing is better than the following: Slack 25 Ibs. good lime,
while still in a doughy state, mix with one pint crude carbolic
acid, then with sufficient water to make a good whitewash. Apply
two coats, allowing the first to dry before applying the next.
Apply a new coat each spring and fall. The floors of all hutches
should be painted with two or three coats of a good waterproof
black roof paint. It is best to paint the floors when first laid and
before applying whitewash to the walls. In building the floors,
use matched flooring, painting each tongue and groove with
white lead or roof paint as it is being laid. Glazed feed and wa-
ter dishes are best as. they have no pores or cracks to harbor
disease germs. Clean them daily, and disinfect by scalding two
or three times per week—daily in case of infectious disease.

Now as to your medicine chest. The drugs and medicines
you should have available at all times are mostly those that are
indispensable to, and usually kept in the family medicine chest.
There is no particular reason for keeping a separate collection
for your rabbitry—it is sufficient to see that the articles are
kept on hand and available to use when needed. The following
list will be found to cover the needs of the average breeder, and
will also be in demand for use about the home, and for home
treatment of minor human ills.

Absorbent cotton, carbolated vaseline, castor oil, Epsom or
Rochelle salts, common baking soda, tincture of aconite, sulphate
of magnesia, tincture of nux vomica, spirits of turpentine, spirits
of camphor, sweet oil, sulphur, carbolic acid, sweet spirits of
nitre, permanganate of potash, pulverized arrowroot, boracic

108

.“
acid, peroxide of hydrogen, and perhaps a few others as occasion

—_

demands.

‘The more common uses for which the above drugs may be
needed, also the dosage, are as follows:

Carbolated vaseline for annointing wounds and sores, and in
connection with other drug's as a basis for salves and ointments.

Castor oil, oné of the best laxatives and corrective for stom-
ach disorders. Dose, one tablespoonful.

Epsom or Rochelle salts, two other splendid laxatives, and
will correct liver troubles. Dose, half a teaspoonful dissolved
in a little water.

Common baking soda will relieve a sour stomach and correct
evil effects of soured or spoiled foods. Dose, one third of a level
teaspoonful dissolved in a little water. To treat a number of
specimens collectively, dissolve a heaping teaspoonful to a quart
of water and keep before them several days.

Tincture of aconite is splendid for relief of colds, catarrh
and in allaying fever. Will prevent and cure snuffles in its first
stages. Dose, three to five drops in a teaspoonful of water.

Sulphate of magnesia, ten drops to a pint of drinking water,
will relieve costiveness.

Tincture of nux vomica, ten drops to a quart of drinking
water, is recommended as a stimulant for the digestive organs,
and is said to stimulate the genital organs and induce backward
does to breed.

Spirits of turpentine, one part to five parts sweet oil will
relieve bronchial affection, such as rattling in the throat. Dose,
ten drops daily to an afflicted specimen. As a worm medicine,
mix equal quantities of turpentine and sweet oil and give thirty
drops. Follow in a couple hours with a tablespoonful castor oil.
Avoid giving turpentine to a pregnant doe.

Sweet oil, as above, and with sulphur as below. Also as a
mild laxative. Dose, two tablespoonfuls.

Sulphur, mix with sweet oil and apply with a swab for ear

‘canker, mange, etc.

Spirits of camphor is a good remedy for slight cases of
diarrhea—add a few drops to the drinking water. Also good for
bruises and sores where the skin is unbroken.

Carbolic acid as a deodorizer and disinfectant. For deodor-
izing and disinfecting feed and water dishes, when boiling water
is not conveniently at hand, use a two per cent, solution to rinse
dishes after thoroughly washing with water and soap. To
cleanse castrating knife, and to wash hands before and after
treating a wound or open sore, use same strength. To spray
floor and walls of hutches, use a four or five per cent. solution.

109

Sweet spirits of nitre for kidney trouble. Dose, six drops
in a teaspoonful of water.

Permanganate of potash as an antiseptic to cleanse the sys-
tem of disease germs and to prevent the spread of colds, bron-
chitis and similar troubles. Dose, about as much as will lay on
a dime to a gallon of drinking water—enough to color the water
to a deep purple.

Pulverized arrowroot. Dose, one teaspoonful to a cup of
milk, given daily until relieved, is a good remedy for diarrhea.
In severe cases, or in dysentery, give twice a day a teaspoonful
of warm water to which has been added three drops oil of 9 al /
mint and one drop of ether.

‘Boracic acid as a cleansing and healing agent for open sores
and sore eyes. Sprinkle sores with the dry powder. For sore
eyes, dissolve a tablespoonful in a pint of boiling water, and
when cold bathe the eyes thoroughly.

Peroxide of hydrogen, as a cleansing agent to remove and
prevent infection of sores and wounds with disease germs. Con-
trary to popular belief, it has no particular healing value to a
fresh wound that has not become infected.

There are a number of meritorious preparations on the mar-
ket designed to keep bunny in good health, but if the breeder will
exercise good judgment in the matter of feed and sanitation, he —
can, with the aid of the drugs mentioned, successfully combat !
nearly every ill that may visit his rabbitry. As to tonics, the
following well known articles will usually suffice without resort-
ing to “condition powders” of unknown composition and uncer-
tain value. Don’t use any of them to excess and don’t try to use
the whole list at one time. Remember I am recommending them
as occasional tonics and not as a regular diet.

They are—the bark from an apple tree branch—Throw the
branch to bunny, it will strip the bark as it wants it; A few
used tea leaves mixed with the regular mash occasionally; A few
drops of sweet spirits of nitre in the drinking water; A pinch
of sulphur in the feed occasionally—careful, not too much; A
few drops tincture aconite in the drinking water—about ten
drops to the gallon. f

Sometimes a tonic is advisable to help prevent the spread of
colds, snuffles, etc. The following is recommended:

Magnesium Sulphate ........... 10 oz.
pth ct)! Sled 4S MANNE CANIN Ange terran ee) A SA 3 OZ.
Magnesmim Oxide “232... 0590 ofeae 1 “oz.
Sulphateror Lron Sidhu neon 2° Ou:
Ground (Gmrer eo nse oe ee 2 oz.

Mix and feed in mash at rate of one tablespoonful to ten
rabbits.
1106

Sometimes rabbits become emaciated, weak and unproduct-
ive without showing signs of actual illness. It may be worms; if
so, treat accordingly, but if not and no other apparent cause, it
is probably what is known as asthenia, or “going light,” just a
gradual wasting away. For this, give the following tonic: 30
grains each of powdered fennel, anise, coriander seed, cinchona,
one dram each of powdered gentian and ginger, and 15 grains of
powdered sulphate of iron. Mix thoroughly and give four grains
in food twice daily.

The dosage given above in each case is for mature rabbits.
For younger animals, give correspondingly smaller doses, as for
instance—half above doses to four months old specimens, quar-
ter doses at six to eight weeks of age.

INDIGESTION

I have been requested to add a paragraph on indigestion.
This trouble is caused from overfeeding, or unbalanced ration,
such as too much dry feed or concentrated feeds. The affected
animal will mope in a corner of the hutch and refuse feed. It
appears to be in great pain and will sometimes, when forced to
move, drag its hind parts as in first stages of paralysis. The
bowels appear distended and hard.

Treatment: Give a tablespoonful castor oil; if not relieved
in two or three hours, repeat. Reduce the grain and dry feed ra-
tion and feed more greens or succulent feeds such as carrots and
mangels.

(NOTE—The writer receives a great many requests for ad-
vice as to home treatment, questions of housing, care, etc. Most
enquirers fail to give sufficient data to enable me to form an in-
telligent diagnosis of their troubles. That I may be able to give
better service to enquirers, and to avoid unnecessary corres-
pondence, I have prepared an “Information Blank,” a copy of
which will be mailed on request. This blank, carefully filled out
and returned will give me a much better idea of the nature of
your trouble, than a long rambling letter. Address me at North
Judson, Ind._iC. R. D.)

111

Ailments of Rabbits

By Dr. Roth
Rabbits of all kinds are remarkably free from disease if

they are properly cared for. With many years of breeding to my
credit, I find that prevention is the best possible cure. There is
too much coddling of rabbits and they are as a consequence, not
hardy enough. If you have vigor and pay for the proper atten-
tion to feeding, housing and sanitation, you will have little or no
disease. Under no condition breed from stock that is suffering
from snuffles, scurvy and vent disease. If you wish to build up a
stud that will be permanent and a pleasure to you, it is absolutely
necessary that you breed from specimens that are perfectly
sound and healthy.
SNUFFLES

We are preaching the gospel of fresh air and it is one of the
very best preventions of many diseases. Above all, get busy and
correct the first symptom of disease. As a general thing in the
early stages it is easy to cure but after well seated it is almost
impossible to affect a satisfactory cure. The most prevalent dis-
ease is the snuffles. Common sense methods in selection and
housing has very materially reduced this disease and yet they are
susceptible at all times to colds. When the first appearance of
a cold or sneezing appears the specimens should be taken in hand
at once. One of the very best remedies to administer is ten drops
of tincture of aconite in the homeopathic form in a drink of
water or milk. Rabbits suffering from snuffles should be kept
in a warm, well ventilated hutch, well bedded with hay and thor-
oughly disinfected. Easy digested foods should be given them.
Boracic powder and iodoform powder in epual parts blown up
the nostrils has been used with excellent results.

(NOTE. The question has arisen as to whether ten drops
of aconite as prescribed above is not too much, or whether Dr.
Roth meant ten drops to one dose. I think he meant it as one
dose, but am inclined to think it rather strong. I usually pre-
scribe three to five drops in a teaspoonful of water, given twice
or three times daily according to age and severity. However,
it should be remembered that tincture of aconite is not made as
strong as it was several years ago, and ten drops could probably
be safely given in severe cases. As the tincture was formerly
made, the dosage prescribed for humans was one to five drops—
now it is given as five to fifteen drops. C. R. D.)

112

SLOBBERS
Indigestion is the cause and should be treated as follows:
Take one tablespoonful each, chlorate of potash and powdered
ginger, adding one pint of water; let stand for a few hours, shake
thoroughly and give teaspoonful doses twice a day.
PARALYSIS
There is no cure for this. You will find the animal dragging
its hind quarters around the hutch as though the hip bones were
broken. Kill at once and put it out of its misery.
SKIN ERUPTIONS
Treat these with an ointment made of equal parts of petrol-
eum jelly and flour of sulphur, rubbing it well into the scurf. If
you are troubled with sore hocks resulting from dirty hutches,
apply the same remedy.
DIARRHEA
Youngsters are particularly troubled with this disease after
they have just been weaned. Sudden weather changes such as
excessive heat or excessive cold will cause it and in some instan-
ces is the result of fright. An abundance of green food, if too
wet or stale, will often cause it. When the symptoms are first
noticed, all green food should be removed and they should be fed
on old clover hay and dry grains. Mix one teaspoonful of pulver-
ized arrowroot in a teacupful of milk and give the specimen daily
until the diarrhea is checked. Pine sawdust acts as a disinfectant
and is a splendid floor covering and absorbent during this period.
EAR CANKER
This is a very troublesome disease and extremely painful to
the animal. If proper attention was paid to cleanliness there
would be little trouble along this line. The symptoms are a thick
yellow discharge from the inside of one or both ears; the eye on
the side that is affected appears to be very weak, with a slight
discharge; the rabbit loses condition and does not relish its food.
The discharge from the ear arises from ulceration in the deep
recess, and is difficult to cure. Clear out the discharge by a little
pressure and a sponge or soft rag soaked in warm water, but
take care that none of the water falls into the ear. When dry,
drop into the ear finely powdered and dry boracic acid, or equal
parts of subnitrate of bismuth and finely-powdered iodoform.
The head should be held on one side, and either of the powders
dusted into the ears twice a day, introducing the powder as far
as possible. The animal should be fed upon the best food; and
extra care in this respect will be required for if the rabbit be-
comes weak its chances of recovery will be very slight.
Another excellent remedy is an application of a mixture of
sweet oil and sulphur, equal parts. One to three applications will

113

usually cure. Apply with a bit of cotton or soft cloth attached
to a small stick.
INSECT PESTS

Fleas are a constant source of worry to rabbits, especially
to Lops. Any good insect powder well worked into the skin will
rid the specimens of these pests. After thoroughly dusting and
rubbing it well into the coat, it is well to use a small tooth comb
to remove them. A splendid insect powder is made of equal parts
of Persian insect powder and tobacco powder well worked
together.

RUNNING AT THE EYES

This is a common disease but is easily cured by placing a
little zine ointment on the eye-ball, closing the lid over it and
working it in well. If you have a stubborn case, dissolve a table-
spoonful of boracic powder in a pint of boiling water and when
cold bathe the eyes thoroughly. If any running sores develop
iodoform ointment will give immediate relief.

CONSTIPATION
This can readily be overcome by feeding an abundance of
green stuff and cutting out the corn and hay, feeding only a
meal mash, to which a little boiled linseed has been added. If no
response to this treatment, give half a teaspoonful dose of syrup
of buckthorn daily until again normal.

SKIN TROUBLES
There are a number of forms of skin troubles resulting in
bald patches. This should not be neglected for many valuable
specimens have been ruined in this way. Cantharides ointment
will kill the parasite and assist the fur to grow.

ABORTION

The prevention of abortion is difficult. Disinfect the hutches
thoroughly and do not feed flowers of sulphur during the breed-
ing seasons.

VENT GLEET

The cause of the disease has not as yet been thoroughly
worked out. I am convinced that it is similar to gonorrhea in the
human family. Isolate the specimen, disinfect the hutch from
which it was removed. Give 30 grains Epsom Salts and twice a
day inject a four per cent, solution of cocaine and immediately
after a solution of nitrate of silver, four grains to the ounce.
The fifth day commence a small copabia capsule daily and inject
acetate of lead, 1 drachm to the pint. Feed rather low and dust
any sore places outside with iodoform. Under no consideration,
breed an animal showing the slightest symptoms of this disease.

114

Castration

By C. R. Deardorft

All males not intended or fit for breeding purposes should
be castrated. The operation is very simple and should be in gen-
eral practice by both the commercial breeder and the fancier.
None but strictly high grade males should be used or sold for
breeding purposes, and the temptation to sell males of inferior
quality to the uniniated at high prices can be so effectively met
in no other way as by following the practice of castrating all
such at an early age.

Castrated males do not fight and may be safely yarded to-
gether in open yards in considerable numbers and varying ages.
They grow faster, make bigger carcass, and produce meat of a
much superior quality to that of the ordinary male. When it is
desired to finish them off for market, they take on fat easily and
quickly and on much less feed than animals not unsexed.

To get best results, male rabbits should be operated on as
soon as the organs begin to become prominent—usually at from
two to three months of age in the heavier breeds, and a few
weeks older in the small breeds. However, old males that have
passed the age of usefulness as breeders, may be safely and
profitably operated on, and end their careers as a meat product
of very superior quality.

The operation is best performed by two persons. The as-
sistant should get down on his knees, and, grasping a front leg
and a hind leg in each hand, hold the animal between his knees
with its back toward his body. The operator should then (if
right-handed) grasp a testicle between the thumb and forefinger
of the left hand, pressing firmly between the organ and the body.
With the right hand make a vertical cut in the skin as it is
stretched tightly over the organ, just sufficient that the pressure
of the left thumb and forefinger will cause it to pop out. Now
grasp the testicle with the left hand and pull about two inches
away from the body, then sever close to the body by using a
scraping motion of the knife. By scraping the cord until it parts
it will not bleed as with a direct cut. Repeat the operation on
the other testicle. Before commencing operations it is well to
cleanse the castrating knife with a two per cent. solution of car-
bolic acid. The wounds will heal rapidly and need no stitching or
applications, except that in fly time, it is well to annoint the
wounds with pine tar to keep flies and insects from annoying
the animal.

115

Tanning the Skins
By C. R. Deardorff

Beautiful fur garments, rugs, mats, lap robes, etc., may be
made from rabbit pelts, if taken during cold weather when the
fur is in its prime. Perhaps the most economical and satisfac-
tory way for the busy man is to send the pelts to a near-by tan-
nery to have them tanned and made up, but there is satisfac-
tion and pleasure to many people in doing things themselves.
To such, this chapter is addressed.

There are several preparations on the market which may be
purchased, and if directions are carefully followed, will produce
very satisfactory results. In all of these preparations, as well
as the process described below, there is one essential to good
results that must be remembered, and that is—the degree of
softness and pliability in the texture of the finished article is
largely dependent on the amount of elbow grease expended in
the way of pulling, working and rubbing.

To those who wish to follow the whole process of home tan-
ning from start to finish, the following is recommended as re-
liable and as giving excellent results:

Trim the pelts and soak until soft, then remove the fleshy
substances and soak in warm water for an hour. Now take
borax, saltpeter and glauber salts, of each one-half ounce, and
moisten with soft water sufficient to allow it to be spread on
flesh side of skins. Put it on with a brush, thickest where the
skin is thickest, double the skin together flesh side in, and keep
in a cool place 24 hours, but not allowing it to freeze.

Then, wash the skins clean and take sal-soda one ounce,
borax one-half ounce, refined white soap two ounces, melt slowly
together, being careful not to allow the mixture to boil, and ap-
ply to the flesh side as at first. Roll up again and keep in a
warm place 24 hours.

Next, wash the skins clean as before, and apply two ounces
of saleratus dissolved in hot (not scalding) rain water, sufficient
to well saturate them. Dissolve in another solution, four ounces
alum and eight ounces salt in hot rain water, and when cool
enough to allow handling without scalding, put the pelts in and
leave for twelve hours; then wring out and hang up twelve hours
to dry. Repeat soaking and drying two to four times according
to desired softness of skin when finished.

Finish by pulling, working and rubbing, and finally rubbing
with a piece of pumice-stone.

116

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Nurse Does
By C. R. Deardorff

To get the best quality in fancy stock, it is not advisable to
allow a mother doe to attempt to raise more than five or six
youngsters, and sometimes it may be advisable to restrict the
size of the litter to not more than three or four. Small litters
are especially desirable in the case of the Giant varieties, where
size of the mature specimen is of supreme importance. Many
does will produce eight to ten, and sometimes more, young at
each kindling. If nurse does are not available, the only thing to
do is to reduce the size of litter by killing the poorest. It goes
hard with most breeders, and especially beginners, to do this,
but it pays in the increased value of the remaining youngsters
and in the chances of raising them to maturity.

In order that the breeder may avoid destroying any of the
young from his most valuable does, and at the same time con-
trol the size of their litters, it is advisable to keep on hand a
number of nurse does. These may be the less valuable of his
regular stock, or he may keep a variety especially adapted to
this purpose. By many, the Dutch is considered as the best to
use as nurse does. They are hardy, very attentive mothers, and
give a good flow of milk. They are small eaters and therefore
more economically kept than the larger varieties.

When a breeding doe has accepted service, breed also, on
the same day, one of your nurse does. In case the breeding doe
is known to produce large litters, it may be advisable to breed
two nurse does for her. It is a good idea to breed two regular
breeding does and three nurse does on the same day if practical.
An inferior male may be used for service to the nurse does, or
any one of your stud bucks that will not be used excessively by
such service. However, don’t abuse Dutch does by breeding them
to Giant bucks.

When the does have kindled, remove and destroy the young
of the nurse doe, and substitute a part of the litter you wish to
preserve. Substitution in this way may usually be made at any
time up until the time the young first leave the nest, but it is
obviously advisable to divide the litter within the first two or
three days. I prefer doing so on the second day after kindling.

Attempts to substitute youngsters after they have left the
nest are seldom successful. The doe is apt to resent and kill the
strangers, but. it seems she can only discover the deception when
they are outside of the nest, and after they have escaped detec-
tion in the nest for a few days, they acquire the nest odor, and
are safe.

119

Pedigree and Registration

By C. R. Deardorff

The manner of making a pedigree is very nicely illustrated
in the chapter on “Line-Breeding,” and discussed there and under
the subject of “Pedigrees,” by Dr. Roth, elsewhere in this book,
hence it is unnecessary for me to go into details on that subject.
Will urge, however, that no breeder, of either commercial or
fancy stock, should neglect to keep an accurate pedigree record,
if not because of demand of the “fancy,” then for his own guid-
ance in the matter of intelligent breeding.

Registration is a method devised to keep an accurate record
of all high class breeding stock, available for inspection at all
times by any one interested, and to act as a check to misrep-
resentation of stock cffered for sale or for stud service. Such
systems have been worked out, and are in almost universal use,
for all domestic animals of high breeding—-horses, cattle, hogs,
sheep, dog's, cats, rabbits, etc.

Excepting in detail of operation, all systems are practically
the same and with the same end in view—to protect both the
breeder and the buyer. In brief, the general plan is this: An
accurate record is kept at a central or home office, of all register-
ed animals—their pedigrees and ownership. Each animal is
given a designated number of a consecutive series, and is ear-
tagged or marked accordingly. It is an easy matter for the
prospective purchaser to go to the records and verify any little
tale of “winnings” or “breeding records,” with which the versa-
tile breeder may have been entertaining him,

While it is practically impossible to devise a system that
will be an absolute guarantee against trickery, yet it can be read-
ily seen that with even a very laxly conducted system, consider-
able protection is offered, and that it would be impossible or at
least improbable, that a trickster could escape detection for any
great length of time.

At present there are three systems of rabbit registration—
I will not undertake to say which is the best, but will say that
in this case, I would suggest “the bigger the dose, the better the
medicine.” In other words, use all three of them. They are:

The National Breeders and Fanciers Association, Secretary,
C. S. Gibson, 1045 W. Warren Ave., Detroit, Mich. This asso-

120

ciation registers rabbits that are considered worthy, only by ex-
amination of specimens by official registrars. Apply to secre-
tary for name of nearest registrar.

The United Kennel Club registers rabbits as well as dogs,
cats, cavies, etc. This Club registers on “blood lines” alone—
that is on pedigrees and previous registrations. No personal
inspection. For blanks and particulars, write to United Kennel
Club, 3410 Beach Ave., Chicago, Ill.

For registration in The Internatioral Hutch and Loft Asso-
ciation, write to the secretary, L. E. Woods, 116 S. Salina St.,
Syracuse, N. Y. This association registers rabbits in two classes.
For ordinary registration, pedigrees must be submitted and the
animal pass personal inspection of an official registrar, as 75 per
cent. perfect. For “Advanced Registration,” the specimen must
first be registered as above, and also include a record of show
winnings to substantiate its claim to such registration. Apply
to secretary for name of nearest registrar.

Inside view of a type of Hutch in use by many Successful Breeders

121

Condensed Information and
Rules for the Rabbitry

1—Be as quiet in the rabbitry as possible.
2—Exclude all strange dogs.
38—Avoid entering the rabbitry about mid-day, because at
that time the inmates are generally asleep, and prefer quiet.
4—Be as regular as possible in the time of feeding.
5—Be equally so as to the days for thorough cleaning.
6—When any offensive smell is perceived in any hutch, find
out the cause, and apply a remedy.
7—Never allow the first symptoms of any complaint or dis-
ease to be neglected, for all ailments are more easily cured when
treated at once.
8—Separate any diseased rabbit from the others as soon as
discovered.
9—Frequently “look over” your stock yourself.
10—Examine the noses, eyes and roots of ears also the
internal ear, to detect any appearance of scurf, mange, ear gum,
or cancex.
11—Let the air of the rabbitry be renewed as frequently as
possible, to insure health of inmates.
12—Keep the temperature of the rabbitry as genial and
equitable as possible.
183—Keep the feeding dish for suckling does constantly re-
plenished as the animals require more nourishment during
that time.
14—In proportion to the number of rabbits the doe has been
suckling, so regulate the time for her pairing again.
15—If the litters are too frequent the stock will be weak.
Quality and quantity are both important, but one must be sub-
servient to the other.
16—Avoid handling young rabbits, especially when in the
nests. ;
17—Exclude mice from the hutches or rabbitry if possible,
for one mouse may cause the does to neglect their young ones.
122

18—Never leave the rabbits to the care of inexperienced at-
tendants. One day’s ignorance as to their wants may perman-
ently injure the stock.

19—If the rabbits are to be improved in condition, use but
little green food.

20—Never give green food wet.

21—So-called “cheap” food is more expensive than the ap-
parently dearer, which is more nutritious. The most wholesome
saves both the pocket and the rabbits, as six months’ trial will
prove.
* 22—Use as few artificial means as possible in the rearing
and management of your rabbits.

23—Protect them from a damp and foggy atmosphere as
much as possible, as such is more injurious than a dry cold one.

24—Make a study of your rabbits, as to their habits and
requirements, and experience, which will enable you to become
a successful fancier, will be speedily gained. Never forget that
rabbits are not the offensive creatures some persons would have
you believe. In a well-arranged rabbitry, where the health and
comfort of the rabbits are studied there is little or no disagree-
able smell.

25—If your buck is a good one do not allow him to serve
more than three does per week. One service is sufficient and will
produce as many or more young than two or three services.

26—Does may be kept together in one compartment until
they are bred, but each buck must have a separate hutch after
they are three months of age, or they will injure each other
by fighting.

27—Bucks become virile at about four months of age, but
do not reach perfection in form or coloration until about eight
months old, and should not be used for breeding purposes until
matured.

28—If a doe commences building her nest and pulling hair:
two weeks after being bred, it is almost a sure indication that
she is not with young, and that she desires to mate. Breed her
and thus save two weeks time in obtaining a litter.

29— Always take the doe to the buck’s hutch when breeding,
as she is less liable to fight if not in season, being in a strange
place. Do not leave them together more than a few minutes, as
this will decide the question either way. If the doe is unwilling
to breed take her back to her hutch and try her next day, or
until she will breed.

123

30—Feed hay in suitable racks to prevent soiling and wast-
ing. They may be made in any convenient manner to suit the
fancy of the breeder. One inch mesh poultry netting tacked to
one end of hutch, about three inches from floor at bottom, and
inclining inwards toward the top, makes a very economical and
convenient rack.

31—Place water dishes for breeding does high enough to
prevent the youngsters from getting into them. They need no
water until nearly weaning age if mcther doe is properly fed
and cared for. Always arrange water dishes in such a manner
that they cannot be overturned and contents spilled. Feed greens
the same way, high up so youngsters cannot reach them. They
will pick up what the doe drops on the floor, which will usually be
ample for them.

32—Never pick a rabbit up by its ears. When you see some
one else do so, ask him how he would like the same treatment.
To lift a rabbit, grasp the loose skin just behind the ears with
one hand, and let the rump rest on the other. To carry it, al-
low it to rest on the forearm, or on the body under your forearm,
while controlling it by the grasp on the skin as before.

33—Keep hutches clean and disinfect occasionally. Cleanse
feed and water dishes two or three times per week with boiling
water—oftener if necessary. If you feed wet mashes or milk,
cleanse after each feeding. Absolute cleanliness is essential to
success with rabbits.

A Good Type of Black Giant

Preparation for the Table

By C. R. Deardorff

Rabbit meat has been pronounced by physicians as one of
the most nourishing meats and is especially suitable for conval-
escents and people with weak stomachs. It can be prepared in a
great many dainty and appetizing ways, but it will be the pur-
pose of this chapter to give only a few of the more easily pre-
pared and thoroughly reliable recipes, together with brief direc-
tions for slaughtering and dressing the rabbit.

While domesticated rabbit, at most any age or size, makes a
very superior article of diet, if properly prepared, it is at its
perfection at about two months of age. However, it is more
profitable to kill at four to six months of age. At the latter age
it has reached a size that represents a maximum of gain on a
given amount of feed, and has sacrificed but very little in quality.

To kill, take the animal by the hind legs in the left hand, let-
ting the head hang downward, strike a quick and rather hard
blow on back of the neck with the edge of the hand or with a
small stick. Cut the throat at once and hang head downward by
means of loops of cord (previously prepared) attached to the
hind feet. Cut a small opening in the abdomen between the hind
legs and fill the carcass with cold water two or three times. Re-
move the pelt by first running the knife around the first joint of
the hind legs, then slitting the skin from one joint to the other
across near the tail. Free the skin from the legs, turning it in-
side out and drawing slowly down toward the ‘head, leaving the
fat attached to the carcass, and being careful to avoid tearing
the thin flesh over the abdomen. Now cut the pelvis bone, work-
ing carefully so as not to cut the walls of the intestinal tract at
this place and open down to the neck. Remove the entrails, cut
off the feet and wash the carcass, thoroughly drying it with a
clean cloth. The heart and liver are to be saved, also the head,
after removing the eye-balls, if you wish it. Allow the carcass
to stand in cold salt water an hour or so.

When usirg more than one rabbit for any particular dish,
animals of about the same age should be used so they will cook
up evenly. If one has a cool place to hang them, the quality of
the meat is much improved by killing a day or two in advance,
In the winter, a considerable number may be killed and dressed

125

at one time and hung up to freeze, thus very greatly improving
the quality of the meat.
FRIED RABBIT

Use a young rabbit, six to eight weeks old, in no case over
three months old, for best results. Cut in pieces and roll each
piece in a mixture of flour, pepper and salt, and fry in butter
and lard, as you would chicken, to a nice brown. Time, 30 to 50
minutes according to age and size.

FRIED RABBIT AND ONIONS
This is a good one. Cut the carcass into joints, soak in salt
water all night. Take two pounds of onions to each rabbit; peel
and slice. Fry the sliced onions in good lard until they are
nicely browned. Next, fry the joints of rabbit until they are
nicely browned. Now put onions and rabbit together in a sauce-
pan and stew very slowly. Season to taste when stewed.

STEWED RABBIT
Cut into joints, put in kettle with some small pieces of fresh
pork. Add hot water and salt, cook until done and dry. Then
fry for a short time and lift into a dish. Now make a nice brown
gravy, by putting a tablespoonful of flour in the kettle and add-
ing hot water. When done, pour over the rabbit. ©

RABBIT PIE

Joint the carcass and soak two hours in salt water. Put into
sauce pan and stew until done and remove bones. Line sides of
your baking pan with biscuit dough, put in the stewed rabbit,
with a few slices of bacon—also a few cubes of beef, if liked.
Put on the top crust, not forgetting to make a small hole in top
for the steam to escape. Bake in a moderately hot oven about
30 minutes.

RABBIT AND DUMPLINGS

Joint the rabbit and soak two hours in salt water. Take one
large onion sliced. Pepper and salt to taste. Mix six or more
suet dumplings. Put all in saucepan with some good stock, and
stew slowly two hours.

POTTED RABBIT

Cut the meat off the bones-into suitable sized pieces, place in
individual jars with diced bacon and mushrooms. Boil the bones
with what meat remains on them and the head, also a suitable
amount of carrots, celery and onions, also a little thyme. Crush; _
salt and season to taste. Thicken slightly, strain to remove
small pieces of bone and cover the meat in the jars with this,
put on the lids and bake slowly until tender; serve in the jars.

Where individual baking jars are not available, the follow-
ing method can be used:

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Another Method

Pack the pieces of rabbit in a stone jar, filling in the spaces
between with bacon and veal—a pound each—cut to dice, into
which the liver of the rabbit has been mixed, cut fine; add mace,
cloves, black pepper and salt to taste. Place thin slices of bacon
on top. Cover with a lid of plain paste made of flour and water.
Set the jar in a pan of water and bake in a slow oven. Keep
from burning by placing a greased paper over the paste. Put
no water on the meat. When done set away to cool, then pound
the pieces of rabbit, bacon and veal to a paste, taking out the
bones, and mix in the gravy from the bottom, if any. Add more
seasoning if necessary. Press solid into cups or small jars, cover
the top with melted butter, and set away in a cool place.

RABBIT SALAD

Use a rabbit that has been boiled until tender, cut into small
pieces, and use three parts rabbit to one part celery, which has
also been cut. For a dressing, use the yolks of four eggs, five
tablespoonfuls vinegar, a little salt and pepper and one dessert
spoonful of prepared mustard. Cook the dressing until it has
appearance of custard, and mix thoroughly with the rabbit and
celery when all are cold. Mix a cupful sweet cream with it when
ready to serve. .

PRESSED RABBIT

When rabbits get old they are very nice pressed, and are fine
for a cold lunch. Boil until the meat begins to fall from the
bones, grind or cut the meat fine and season with salt and pepper.
Pour the broth over it and put all together into a vessel and
cover with a plate and weight on top and let stand until cold,
when it can be sliced and served. A little bacon added when the
meat is boiling and ground up with the rabbit meat makes a
desirable improvement.

BROILED RABBIT

Use a young rabbit, boil in salted water five minutes, dry
and broil as quickly as possible. Dish on hot platter and season
with salt, pepper and butter. |

ROAST RABBIT WITH ONIONS
Place a layer of onions in the bottom of pan, then a layer
of meat neatly cut, add another layer of onions, and alternate
with meat until the pan is filled. Scatter a few small pieces of
bacon or fresh pork through the rabbit meat. A double roaster
is best, as it keeps in the steam more thoroughly. No water is
needed, as moisture is furnished by the onions and meat.

ROASTED RABBIT
Soak rabbit in salt water thirty minutes, without cutting up.
Grind or chop fine a slice of fat salt pork or bacon, and mix with
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sufficient bread crumbs to fill the cavity. Season with minced
onions and chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the
carcass with this mixture, cover with thin slices of bacon, pour a
cup of water in the pan and bake one hour, basting frequently.
Thicken the drippings with browned flour, season with salt and
pepper. Serve on hot platter with slices of bacon, slices of lemon
and lettuce. ;
BAKED RABBIT

Bone or not as desired. Lay alternate layers of rabbit and
thin slices of bacon, season with thyme, sage and thin slices of
onions, Partly fill the dish with water, bake in a slow oven for
one and one-half hours. Use a deep covered baking pan, or
casserole.

FIRELESS COOKER METHOD

This is delicious. Joint the rabbit. Cut the largest pieces
to make the pieces as nearly uniform in size as practicable.
Brown well in hot butter or bacon fryings. Place in fireless
cooker vesse] with just enough water to cover. Add finely chop-
ped onion and parsley, and two or three slices bacon cut into
small pieces. Salt and pepper to taste. Boil gently for thirty
minutes, then place in fireless cooker for six hours.

JELLIED RABBIT

Boil until the meat will fall from the bones, and leave in
the water over night. In the morning, chop fine, season with
butter, pepper and salt, and press in a mold until firm.

Or—Boil tender, cut in small pieces, and season with salt
and pepper. Add a half box gelatine soaked in cold water to the
liquor (not less than a quart) in which the rabbit was boiled;
strain through thin muslin, and when it begins to thicken, add
the meat; put in molds and place on ice to harden.

JELLIED RABBIT AND PIGS FEET
This is a good one, especially fine for cold lunches. Use
rabbit and pigs feet, about equal parts by weight; soak the pig's
feet over night in cold water, clean and remove the toes. Soak
the rabbit for the same length of time in salt water. Put both in
a kettle with enough water to cover, add an onion finely minced.
Boil until meat readily separates from the bones. Season with
salt and pepper when nearly done. When done, lift from kettle
leaving the liquor to keep hot, and pick the meat into small
pieces. Put in crock and pour over the hot liquor, which should”
be pretty well boiled down, but still sufficient to cover the meat |
in the crock. If an additional flavor and relish is desired, add.
to the hot liquor before pouring over the meat, pure vinegar, or
spiced vinegar, in proportion of one-half cup to six pounds of, ,
meat. The whole mass should be thoroughly mixed in the crock
and then set away to cool. Slice and serve cold. ~ (@
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