FORTHE PEOPLE FOR EDVCATION FOR SCIENCE LIBRARY OF THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST IN EGYPT & OTHER COUNTRIES. '§m\\hlts of n '$n\\m\M IN ^ ""YPT k OTHER COUNTRIES. WITH AN ANALYSIS OF THE CLAIMS OF CERTAIN FOREIGN BIRDS TO BE CONSIDERED BRITISH, AND OTHER ORNITHOLOGICAL NOTES. BY J. H. GURNEY, JuN., F.Z.S. LONDON : JARROLD AND SONS, 3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS. Z^-fl1»^ 4r^>>' PREFACE. In the following pages I have endeavoured to describe truthfully the incidents of sundry journeys undertaken in the last half-dozen years, more or less with a view to the prosecution of my favourite study — Ornithology — which is fast striding after its sister sciences in the public favour. If I may presume to think that anything I have written can in any degree help to render Ornithology more popular, I shall be amply repaid for the labour and trouble which it has cost me. I have added a statement, which may not be wholly without interest, of the claims of certain rare species of birds to be included in the British list. The present plan of placing such stragglers on a level with our native species is to be reprobated ; at the same time it is not easy to know what to do with them. They clearly cannot be passed over, for they are too important. The proper course is to submit them to a close scrutiny, and insert such as pass the ordeal in small type, or by indenting them, or some other means make it plain that they are not to be on the same footing with our indigenous species. vi PREFACE. It is impossible to write a book which is entirely free from error, but I have done my best to make my lucubra- tions accurate, and I commit them to the public, trusting that my readers will look leniently on mistakes should they find any. I can only say, may they prove to be few and far between ; and in conclusion, let me remark that I have had the assistance of my father, so that the work has had the advantage of a double supervision. J. H. G., J UN. CONTENTS. PAGE To Russia and Back - - - - i My Journal in the Algerian Sahara - - 21 Notes during the Franco-German War - - 63 Six Months' Bird Collecting in Egypt - 84 Passing Notes on the Birds of Italy - - 244 Analysis of the Claims of Certain Birds to be Accounted British - . - - 249 Additions to the Avifauna of Durham - 273 Netting Sea-Birds on the Wash - - - 280 Short Notes on British Birds - - 283 Gibraltar _ . . . . 294 TO RUSSIA AND BACK, With an Account of the Birds to be met with at the principal Markets, and a fezv Notes on the Mnscnms and Zoolos:ical Gardens. At 6.15 p.m., on the nth of August, 1869, the "Ranger" left her moorings below London Bridge, and steamed rapidly down the Thames. It was a finer night than the weather had given any promise of, and I amused myself with standing on deck and watching the docks, and fields and houses, passing in a continually changing panorama, and a small flock of Gulls* lazily flapping over the water, until the waning twilight made it too dark to see. By day-break next morning we were at Gravesend, where the river is a considerable breadth, and plenty of shipping dotted about presented an animated scene. Here the river- pilot and the officer of customs wished us a prosperous voyage, and went ashore in the boat which brought the captain. '■* In the autumn of 1871, I sent to the Zoological Gardens a Herring Gull which had strayed as far as Kentish Town, by which time it had got exhausted, and afforded a fine Sunday's amusement to sundry " loafers " who ran it down and captured it. This fellow had a fine appetite, and easily managed three herrings at a meal. B 2 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. When off Harwich great quantities of wasp-Hke insects (SyrpJiida;), and a good many Lady-birds, and a few Butterflies came on board. I thought at the time it might have been in consequence of the sugar which formed part of the cargo ; but it seems, according to the Times newspaper, that on the same day a marvellous flight of Lady-birds arrived at Ramsgate, where they were shovelled up by spadefuls ; and on the 24th of the pre- ceding month, a yacht off Hunstanton passed through a black stripe in the water two or three miles in length, all composed of defunct Lady-birds. (Norfolk Naturalist's Society, 1869, p. 62.) We sighted Denmark on the 15th of August. When still many miles from shore a common Dunlin (Triiiga alpiiia L.) en trajct, flew on board, was speedily caught, and is now in my collection. I could by this time see that the coast presented a succession of islands, good places for birds I dare say, and no doubt inhabited by a fishing population, whose one-storied and black-roofed houses were plainly visible. On the i6th we were steaming slowly up the Kattegat, with Denmark on our right and the bold coast of Sweden on our left. The sky was cloudless. The chop- ping waves of the North Sea were exchanged for the calmness of the " Narrows." Three formidable forts bar the entrance to Copenhagen — vouchers that the Danes will show their teeth to any second Nelson who shall try to ride in their harbour. The Captain allowed an hour and a quarter, and no more, for walking about the place. The houses look old, but many of the edifices are large, and must have been grand a century ago. In that short time I could not find the regular birdstuffer, but I noticed in a shop window two Goshawks, an old one and a young one. Swallows, Swifts, and Martins were flying about, as wel- come and as much at home as in every town in England. There is one hour difference between Copenhagen time TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 3 and that of London. After setting our watches right, we steamed off again and passed to the north of the island of Bornhohii, and near to the unpronounceable place called Utkhipporna. No view to be obtained of the Prussian coast at any time. The following morning, a little before 7 a.m., when the " Ranger " had passed the island of CEland — visited for egghig purposes by Messrs. Wolley and Huddleston in 1866 — and was off Gottland, on the Swedish side of the Baltic — weather thick and inclined to rain — several Inses- sorial birds alighted on the rigging. With them was a Hawk, which, according to the report of the man at the helm, was so exhausted that it fell into the sea. When I came on deck, the only bird which remained was a Phyllopncuste — I believe P. trocJdliis (L.). It was joined by another, ap- parently of the same species, somewhat later in the day. At 2.45 a female Pied Flycatcher (Aluscicapa atricapilla L.) settled on the ship, which I got a good view of by creeping along under the bulwarks. There was no wind at that time. It had no sooner left us than one of the boys caught a bird which had been about, I believe, all the morning, and which proved to be a Red-backed Shrike. Doubtless these feathered pilgrims were but the vanguard of the great autumnal tide of migration. They must have come from the immense firwoods which skirt the Swedish shore, and extend into the interior. The author of a " Note Book of a Naturalist" mentions, (p. 64) that when he was sailing near the same place, a Long-tailed Titmouse came on board, which is far more remarkable than any of the birds I saw. As evening drew on, the sea, which before was calm as glass, began to be gently rippled by a passing wind. Quickly the sails felt the breeze. Quickly our good ship ploughed her way onwards, and as she went she left behind her a broad wake of foam, on which there fell the 4 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, rays of a red setting sun in most transcendent splendour. Gradually we left CEland in the distance, but the sun had illumined the vault of heaven, and there remained a glittering pathway over the waters of the Baltic for many hours, until night shrouded the scene. On that occasion I observed a ship in the ball of the sun, as he dipped to his rest below the horizon. The day following we entered the Gulf of Finland. On the 20th, when off Hogland island, a Kestrel (Tinnuncuhis alandarius) paid us a visit, which was the only other bird we saw, for the same evening we anchored outside the bristling batteries of Cronstadt. Thousands of half-wild Pigeons were swarming about the harbour, and I recognised my old friend the Grey Crow, (Corvns comix L.) not often to be seen in our country in August, but here in Russia they are stay-at-home birds, and probably do not migrate at all. Their tameness at St Petersburg would shock Alexander Selkirk. They stalk about the streets with the air of a landed proprietor, who is kindly permitting the wood merchants to pile their timber on his wharf It is said they have been even known to seize the sacred Pigeons ! The city of St. Petersburgh is built almost entirely upon piles. Nevertheless, it is on such a low bad site, that if Lake Ladoga overflowed, and a certain conjunction of wind and tide took place, it would infallibly be swamped ; and a good many people expect that this will happen some day. The finest edifice is the Isaac Cathedral, beyond all question. It is in the form of a Greek cross. Its grand simplicity is very effective. Hemmed in by no houses like our St. Paul's, yet with all the finest buildings in the capital grouped around it, its noble porticos, its colossal proportions free from all meretricious ornament, and its vast gilded dome tower up into the air. It is surmounted TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 5 by a cross, which may serve the newly-arrived stranger as a landmark from all parts of the city. Pigeons make it their home, semi-wild ones of domestic origin, like those which in London frequent the British Museum, the Houses of Parliament, and Somerset House. Crowds of House Martins had gathered on the Winter Palace. The pert Jackdaw was also there, and the ever-present Sparrow, the same as in England. Those who are not pressed for time when they have done the principal sights, not forgetting the Hermitage and Peter the Great's House, ought to take steamer to Peterhof Palace. One of the rooms is panelled from skirting-board to ceiling with t,6S portraits of girls, all selected for their beauty ; besides this singular collection there are other things in the palace worth seeing. A fire had just taken place at this suburb when I was there, and nearly two acres of houses had been burnt downj but the Russians are too much accustomed to this sort of thing to think much of two acres of wooden houses. Great precautions are taken in the city by building lofty watch-towers, from which, by means of a system of hoisting balls, alarm can be given in case of fire. The streets are spacious but badly paved ; they are covered with snow half the year, and I suppose the in- habitants do not think it worth while paving them any better. Many of them are of wood, which is delightfully easy to drive on in your " droski " when new, but wears out very soon, without an upper coating of asphalt. They are well lighted with gas, and there is nothing prettier than to lean on the parapet of St. Nicholas' Bridge, and look up the river at the two long rows of lamps reflected in the water. There is a garden on the Vassili Ostrof which is used in summer as a market for live birds, rabbits, snakes, lizards, tortoises, shells, etc. Here I saw, besides sundry birds 6 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. which appeared to have been imported from other countries, Skylarks, young StarHngs, the Marsh Titmouse, to which De Selys gave the name Panis borealis, Bullfinches (Pyrr- hula curopcva, Leach), Blue-throated Warblers, and Black- caps: and in gunmakers' windows, stuffed specimens of the Golden Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, Eagle Owl,* Snowy Owl, Black-throated Diver, Shelduck, and Curlew. Not far from, the Millionaya Street there is a small game market, and at one shop a Whooper or Wild Swan, and a Nutcrackerf (Niicifraga caryocatactes L.), were hanging up. An attempt had been made to stuff them, so I dare say they had been suspended there all the summer. Shooting commences on the I5tli (27th) of July, but Capercaillie are not in season so early as that. A freshly- killed young bird is of course far superior to what are brought over and vended in Leadenhall market. Old ones would hardly be considered fit to eat in Russia. The Tcterka (Blackgrouse), and RiabcJiick (Hazelgrouse), are also capital birds for the table. It is said that considerable numbers of the Grey Partridge (Pcrdix cinerea Lath.) have been turned off in the vicinity of the metropolis. There are a great many stories about the Capercaillie ; one is that after death it swallows its tongue. Like many other fables it is founded on fact ; for the organ is sometimes retracted so far as to become quite invisible. | '"' I find that in a tame Eagle Owl of ours, when exhausted with long incubation, the pupils of the eyes become almost white. I also find that the iris in this species becomes very much lighter with age. t The middle tail feathers are so abraded at the end in a Nutcracker of mine, killed at Christchurch in Hampshire, as to leave the shafts almost bare, and they are worn in the same way in a specimen of my father's, killed at Rollesby in Norfolk. { The number of Scotch Capercaillie sent up to Leadenhall Market is very large, perhaps 200 in a winter, exemplifying the remarkable hold which this species has again taken in North Britain, particularly in TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 7 I must now say something of the Museum, which is at the Academy of Sciences (between the Exchange and the University), and contains the famous Mammoth, whose unfossihzed remains were found embedded in ice on the banks of the Lena. Professor Brandt was away, but I was glad to meet Dr. Radde, who drew attention to his Fiiligiila bacri, which would appear to be one of those puzzling hybrid Ducks, (Reisen im Suden von Ost-Sibirien in den Jahren 1855 — 1859, P- ZT^') ^^'^^ to the beautiful specimens oi Anas falcata and A. glocitans, which latter is the species to which by English authors some hybrids were incorrectly assigned under the name of " Bimaculated Duck." I also especially noticed no less than twenty varieties of the Blackgrouse, and several of the Capercaillie, also both sexes of the spurious Rakkelhan Grouse (Tctrao medius (Meyer) Teni.), the female of which appears to be exactly like a small female Capercaillie. Another handsome cross is that between the Black Grouse and Willow Grouse, of which I afterwards saw several, but did not succeed in obtaining a specimen. I had hoped to find a good series of the Red-breasted Goose, but I only saw four ; one of them a plain grey bird without a particle of red was marked a female, doubtless immature. The collection of Brazilian species is large ; but not being well up in South American birds, I directed my attention to the specimen of the Great Auk. I found that there was no Qgo^ of this bird in the Museum, but Professor Newton had told me that he believed there were two in the city, and I set on foot enquiries, but without any result beyond learning that Mr. Champley of Scarborough had been making enquiries before me. Perthshire. They come earlier and are smaller than the Norwegian, and may be known by having been shot. Numbers are also sent to the Glasgow poulterers, according to Mr. Gray. (B. of Scotland, p. 228.) 8 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. I passed some birds in the ante-room recently set up, which I rather think were from Finland. They were the Curlew Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Swifts, etc. Also a Short-eared Owl just brought in and skinned, and a Hen Harrier, which was no doubt killed in the environs. There were specimens of both in the collection marked St. Petersburgh. In another ante-room there was an artist at work painting a Ruff, with Gould's " Birds of Europe " to help him. I must not omit to mention seeing some eggs of the Waxen Chatterer,* with the following testimony to an Englishman's perseverance : — " In memoriam Johannis WoUey, quern in regionibus Europce, hyperboreis naturae arcanorum per multos annos studiosum, fames, frigus, bellum, non deterrerunt, hoec ampelidis garruloe ova musoeo." On the 3rd I saw the Zoological Gardens, and bought a curious muff made of nine necks of Black-throated Divers in their fullest plumage. The gardens are really very poor for a great place like St. Petersburgh. They are a private undertaking, and the property of a lady. Wild Tree Sparrows were flying in and out among the bushes. By the Rumiantsoff Obelisk I saw a Greater Whitethroat {?). Going again to the Museum, the taxidermist, Monsieur Wosnessensky, showed me a Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivo- rus, L.) just set up. I likewise saw a couple of young Cranes, which had been reared by hand. They were a yellowish brown colour; the crown of the head not bare; the iris dark. Before going away I paid my respects to another live- bird market, where I saw Redwings, Redstarts, Snow *^ The Waxen Chatterer goes as far south as Algeria. Professor Newton, in his fourth edition of Yarrell, " B. B.," says indeed that it does not cross the Mediterranean, but both he and Mr. Dresser must have overlooked what Loche says : — " De passage en Algerie de loin en loin." (Cat. des Mammiferes, etc., p. 88.) TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 9 Buntings, Pine Grosbeaks, an Oxeye Titmouse, a Long- tailed Titmouse, a Pied Flycatcher, and five Storks. I bought a Sparrovvhawk* and a Cuckoo, which I skinned the following day, together with an Oystercatcher, which an English resident had shot on lake Ladoga. From its brown back, and from the edgings to the feathers, I have no doubt that it is a bird of the year. On the 8th of September I travelled by a second-class carriage to Moscow. I thought it much more comfortable than an English first-class, and a perfect banquet was pro- vided at the stations where we stopped for refreshment. The only birds seen on the way were a few Wood Pigeonsf and Magpies, a Rook, and an old Buzzard perched upon a pole. I was unfortunately just too late for a meeting of Zoolo- gists and scientific men, in which I might have heard some interesting questions discussed. As soon as I arrived I hastened to the live-bird market, where I found for sale the Common Sandpiper, Hawfinch, Crested Titmouse and Shorelark ; and the next day at some other shops outside the wall of the " Kitai Gorod," a Golden Oriole, a Missel Thrush, and a Raven ; and in the game market the following dead birds — Goshawk (in an interesting state of change), Capercaillie, Hazel Grouse, ^' On the 31st of August, 1873, a young cock Sparrowhawk was made a prisoner in our bantam-house, having dashed through the top netting, of which the mesh is only two and a half inches in diameter, It must have been a squeeze, but he could have come in no other way. i* November 20th, 1871, a gamekeeper in Norfolk drew my attention to a Silver-fir tree with two leaders, near to a Pheasant-feeder, (a wooden contrivance for corn,) remarking that he knew this deformity and many others like it to have been caused by Wood Pigeons coming after the corn, and settling on the tops of the trees when they were young and breaking them thus. 10 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Willow Grouse* (in part summer plumage), Double Snipes, and Teal. While I was examining them, a fine Buzzard soared about overhead on the look-out for anything he could pick up. I soon afterwards saw some more, circling at no great height. I have understood that they propagate as well as roost in the steeples and minarets ; and that besides clearing up all kinds of refuse, as the scavenger Kite once did in London, they make prey of the Pigeons which infest Moscow. Pigeons are never shot in the town ; they roost and nidify in the Kremlin's gilded cupolas, and are very com- mon throughout the city. Of course I visited the Zoological Gardens of the Imperial Acclimatisation Society, which are prettily laid out, and with a fine sheet of water. I was informed that the animals had fallen off, but there still remained a fine collection, in- cluding upwards of twenty Eagles, and a similar number of Ruddy Shelducks, also one or more of the following species — Caucasian Snow-Partridge, Great Bustard, Coot, Black- tailed Godwit, Green Sandpiper, Capercaillie, Snipe, and Common Sandpiper ; altogether there were sixty-five sorts of birds in the Gardens, and the collection was very superior to that at St. Petersburg!!. On the 1 2th, after glancing over the bird market, where I noticed a Nutcracker, an albinoe Quail, and a Waxwing, I drove with a friend to the famous Sparrow Hills, whence Napoleon first viewed the city. It was a noble stand-point, almost equal to Arthur's seat at Edinburgh. "All this is yours," he is said to have exclaimed, and the shout of * Mr. Yarrell, in 1843, gives the price of Ptarmigan at four shillings a brace, (B. B., 11., p. 327,) but does not say if they were Scotch Ptarmigan or Norway Willow Grouse. The latter is far and away the commoner in Leadenhall market. The price has gone up since his time, Scotch Ptarmigan being twelve and sixpence a brace in October, and Norway Willow Grouse six shillings TO RUSSIA AND BACK. II " Moscow ! Moscow ! " was taken up by the foremost ranks and carried to the rear of his army. On the 13th I got a Spotted Crake, a Sclavonian Grebe, and a young RufT;* and took a peep into the celebrated Riding-school, 560 feet in length, supposed to be the largest room in the world. Here in the winter two regiments of Russian cavalry can manoeuvre at the same time, when the intense cold does not permit of their going through their exercises out of doors. I had failed in seeing the birdstuffer at St. Petersburgh, M. Dode, though I made his acquaintance in London in the spring of 1871, but I was more fortunate at Moscow. Taxidermy is not a lucrative trade there, and I cannot say much for the way in which a Dipper and a Little Gull were mounted. The latter was in very complete nuptial plumage, and I believe they breed near Moscow. On the 14th I bought a Garganey Teal and a Nyroca Duck. For the latter I was charged one hundred "copeks," equivalent to a " rouble " or three shillings in English money. Afterwards the birdstufifer's wife came to me with the following birds — White-breasted Nuthatch (Sitta europcea, Lin.), Jay, Golden-crested Wren, Chaffinch, Thrush, Willow Wren, Crested Titmouse, Marsh Titmouse (Parus borealis), and Blue Titmouse. The latter was a remarkably pale light-coloured specimen, but several of the best Ornitholo- gists to whom I have shown it consider it to be merely a variety. September 15th. — A Shoveller Duck at the market, 1 6th. — A very wet day. Picked out from among a lot of other wild-fowl a nestling Nyroca Duck, not half fledged. The market is a famous place for Double Snipes ; basketsful * In 1871, in the early part of the summer, I am informed a drove of sixty old Ruffs were seen at Hickling Broad (in Norfolk), yet there were only two nests, I hear, and, sad to say, the eight young birds were all shot. 12 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of them are brought in every morning. They are very greasy but delicious eating. 17th. — At the market, Corncrake, Tufted Ducks, Pintail Ducks, Blackbird, Thrush, and Golden Plover. I bought a Common Snipe, which had the outer tail feathers elongated. Compared to the Double Snipe it is quite a rarity. 20th. — I <7-ot a Smew before breakfast, and in the evening the birdstufifer's wife brought a Jack Snipe, a Brambling, two Siskins, a Whinchat, a Skylark, two Spotted Crakes, a Jay, and a Cuckoo. This Cuckoo, and the one I obtained at St. Petersburgh, were most curious specimens. Both were immature. In the first one the peculiarity consisted in a broad mark of reddish brown like a stain all down the head and back, and two others similar upon the wings. In the second the wings and all the upper surface were mealy- colored.* 2 1 St. — Paid a final visit to the market and got a drake Gadwall. I had been led to expect great things from the Russian markets. Waxwings and Pine Grosbeaks were to be had for a few " copecks " I was told, and heaps of other rare birds ; but this can only apply to the winter, when I have no doubt they would vie with any in Europe. I must not omit to say that the Zoological Cabinet at the University is particularly worth seeing, containing as it does no less than yS'^S^ specimens. The birds are fairly stuffed and in good order. I saw a beautiful skin of the rare Red- breasted Goose, and a mounted one which was not so good. One case was full of bottles of various sizes. Each bottle contained a card on which was gummed a bird's gizzard and its contents — gnats, flies, beetles, etc. The Rook, being of special importance to agriculture, the stomachs of no less ** The Cuckoo has been stated to have a pouch, but I have not succeeded in finding it, though I have remarked the very gelatinous skin of the neck in some specimens. TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 13 than eight were displayed. The preparations were really very neat, and each had a separate label. In the Interna- tional Exhibition of 1862, there was a very similar series of the dried contents of the gizzards of the chief birds of France. The University was founded by Elizabeth, daughter of Peter the Great. There are seventy-five professors, and the library contains about 160,000 books. The line of railway which connects the two chief cities of Russia is straight as an arrow. The story goes, that the Tzar took a ruler and drew a line across the map, and said to the government engineer, " That is how the railway is to go." He made it accordingly, and it is 403 miles long. On re-visiting the live- bird stalls at St. Petersburgh I saw pretty much the same species as before, and a few additional ones, to wit, the Pied Wagtail, Reed Bunting, Creeper, and Lapwing. In a poulterer's window I saw a stuffed Blackcock most beautifully pied, and a hybrid be- tween that species and the Willow Grouse. I purchased a Green Woodpecker and a Goldeneye Duck, and tried to skin them, but the Woodpecker was almost too stale for the purpose. It is difficult to see what birds the poulterers have, for they keep them shut up in lockers instead of hang- ing them out. On the 24th I saw a Waxwing at the Exchange Gardens for sale, and bought a Missel Thrush. On the 25th I dropped on to some fresh birds at the market, three Little Stints, a Dunlin, a Ring-Dotterel (Charadrius intcnncdius), and a young Grey Plover, which was so yellow that but for its black axillaries it might have passed for a Golden. The close of the month was wet, and I was not sorry to leave on the 28th of September, after collecting fifty-nine birds, a considerable number for so short a time. St. Petersburgh is wonderfully hot in summer, considering how far north it is ; but the climate appears to suit the English, 14 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. who muster plentifully there ; though indeed where are not our countrymen to be found ? By train to Berlin was about the longest journey without a break I ever made, occupying nearly forty-two hours ; and so sparsely furnished with birds was the tract through which we passed, that I saw nothing worth recording. The Zoological Gardens at Berlin are not equal to ours at London, though I think the grounds are larger. The Society is well off in Accipitres, and a pen of fifteen Little Egrets and Squacco Herons was a beautiful sight. A mouse, which my approach frightened into the Crane's en- closure, was caught up in a twinkling.* The trade in Thrushes, carried on in the open place by the theatre, is quite a business. This was the only market I could find. I saw a Great Bustard (Otis tarda) in it, but nothing else worth mentioning. I thought none of the Berlin sights better worth seeing than the Aquarium. In fish it has now been eclipsed by that at Brighton, but in addition to the fish there were many birds of considerable interest and rarity. The Museum is too renowned to call for any praise from me. It is in the left wing of the University. In passing through the Thier Garten to see the Royal Necropolis, I had a capital view of a Greater Spotted Woodpecker. I have been told they are rather common. My next stage was to Hanover. The Zoological Gardens there are decidedly good, and the Raptorial birds well cared for. In one cage was a nearly white Buzzard, and in another two more with a great amount of white. From my bedroom window at the hotel I observed a • Some years ago my father kept a pair of Purple Herons. Some rats burrowed a hole in the ground at the bottom of their cage. A can of water was poured down to bolt them, and two half-grown ones ran out, but they only escaped drowning to be instantly captured and swallowed by the Herons. TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 1 5 pair of Black Redstarts. They seem partial to bricks and mortar. So is the Crested Lark, which at Hanover will perch freely on buildings. Near the Waterloo Column I had about twenty of the two species in view at once. Having done the Museum, which contained a Great Auk, I took the train to Brussels. In Brussels* market I have always found good birds, and on this occasion I made the following list of species during the few days I spent there : — ■ Curlews, Hazel Grouse, Serin Finch, Spotted Redshanks,* (easily picked out by their long bills,) Scaup, f Gadwall, Pintail, Shoveller, Grey Shrikes, Hawfinch, Jays, (some of them plucked !) Dunlins, Spotted Crakes, Coots, Water- Hens, Dabchick, Jack Snipes (in plenty). Woodcocks (a fair number), Pheasants (a few), Grey and Red-legged Partridges (about equally common), Quail, Red Grouse, (these at a poulterer's,) Wood Pigeons, Wild Geese, (I forget what species ; but on another occasion I saw a small but un- doubted Bean Goose,) Short-eared Owls, Lapwings, Golden Plovers, Green Woodpecker, Magpies,^ Merlin. The con- sumption of Thrushes is nearly as great as at Berlin, and many birds which we should not much esteem are sold for food, e.g., Thrushes, Redwings, Blackbirds, Ring Ouzels, and an occasional Fieldfare or Missel Thrush, which find patronizers. Nor are there wanting people who have the heart to dine off Bramblings, Larks, and Tree Sparrows ; and I even saw a Robin and a Cole Titmouse offered among the more legitimate gibier : but my greatest stroke of luck ** I have often seen Spotted Redshanks in Leadenhall market. They have been got there in all states of plumage, but the commonest is the adult winter, and the rarest the adult summer. ■f In the Exeter Museum there is a curious female Scaup Duck with a white collar, also a white chin, which was shot on the Exe. \ On the 23rd of December, 1869, I saw an astonishing number of Magpies in the market at Paris, but nothing else except a great many Squirrels. l6 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, was when I detected a knot of people on the staircase handling a splendid Kite, which of course I bought. At Brussels I met my father, who had been in the town a few days.* On reference to his diary, I observe that he met with some species in the market which I did not, viz., Kestrel, Jackdaw, Greater-spotted Woodpecker, Ortolan Bunting, Corncrake, Water Rail, Teal, and Wild Duck. Being at the market again in December, 1870, I saw a Starling, some Great and Blue Tits, Linnets, Purple Sand- pipers, Brent Geese,f {plucked all except their wings,) and a Velvet Scoter (plucked also, a choice morsel all ready for the first fasting devotee who came a market- ing) : nor have I yet got to the end of my list, for on another occasion I saw several magnificent old drake Smews, Goosanders, and Shelducks, quite a fine ornitho- logical sight ;J besides which the late Dr. Saxby enumerates in his "Notes on the Birds of Belgium," (Zoologist, 7537>) Scops Owl, Tengmalm's Owl, Lapland Bunting, Black Grouse, and Red-crested Duck ; to which I can further add Richardson's Skua :§ but I think I have said enough to make anyone's mouth water who is fond of poking about for rare birds in markets. ** He had just come from Ghent, where he got four Richard's Pipits from among Larks and Wagtails in the poulterers' shops and eating- houses. f Willoughby describes " a very heedless fowl " found in Yorkshire, called a Rat or Road-Goose.. " If a pack of them come into Tees it is seldom one escapes away." This is the Brent, and the name of Road- Goose, is persistent to this day at Tees-mouth. J This was after the very hard weather which ushered in 1871. The same week I saw several adult male Goosanders in Leadenhall market, and about seven magnificent Smews were killed in Norfolk. (Zool. ss., 2600.) § I have more than once had Richardson's Skua, from Flamborough Head in Yorkshire, in July. TO RUSSIA AND BACK. 1/ The Museum, of which M. Alf. Dubois is curator, contains 22,500 specimens. The Macqucen's Bustard (killed in the vicinity in 1845,) has a beautiful ruff, equal I think to the finest Houbaras which I obtained in Algeria. It appears that* two others were killed with it. The Great Auk seemed (for it was getting dark when I got round to it,) to be a well-stuffed specimen, in summer plumage of course. It was bought of Frank, through w^iose hands several have passed, twenty years ago, when they were not considered to be extinct, for 150 francs in the skin. As far as I remem- ber, all the Great Auks which I examined had the ribs on the bill white, (cf. Zoologist, 1642). I must now mention a Goose in the Zoological Gardens which had pink legs, and yet from the length of its bill was an undoubted Bean Goose. Curious as this is, it is not more so than the converse which has happened in Somerset- shire to Mr. Cecil Smith. That naturalist has recorded (Zoologist, 3412, 3627, 4333,) Pink-footed Geese of his own breeding with yellow legs, but as they were that colour in early youth, it is not to be taken as any corroboration of Strickland's exploded notion that the Pink-footed Goose was the young of the Bean. Strickland's " Bean Goose " was Bartlett's true Pink-footed Goose. Both these writers agreed that the Geese with black nails to their beaks were divisible into two species, but they differed about the names which should be applied to them. Now that the distinc- tions are properly understood, it appears clear that the Pink-footed is much the commoner, and that many even of the more recent records of " Bean Geese " must be taken as referring to it. I happened last June to see living examples of both in an enclosure together, and there is no tangible difference in plumage. Practically the best marks to seize on are those originally published, viz., the short bill, smaller stature, and pink legs of the Pink-footed Goose, and also the middle of the beak pink, as opposed to the yellow c 1 8 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. colour of the same parts in the Bean Goose. Oddly enough, I could find no specimens of the " Long-billed Car Goose " in Mr. Strickland's collection in the York Museum. With many apologies for being led into this digression, I will now return to my journal. At the chief poulterer's at Lille I saw more than a dozen Tufted Ducks, and a beauti- ful Grey Phalarope. It is the custom to hang up skins, and at this game-shop there was a Kentish Plover, and at another a Merganser, a Scoter, and a Black-tailed Godwit. With regard to the Museum of this town I cannot do better than quote my father, as his note is more full than mine. " There are two collections of birds in the Museum here, one a good general collection, the other a very fine series (in a separate room) of the birds of Europe, which formerly belonged to the late Dr. Degland, author of " Degland's Birds of Europe," who lived at Lille. In the general collection there are a fine pair of adult Goshawks from the Ural Mountains, which seemed to me to have the transverse bars on the breast decidedly narrower and finer than on the breast of adult Goshawks in Western Europe. " In the collection which was formerly Dr. Degland's, there is a remarkably fine series of Honey Buzzards, chiefly from the Pyrenees, some specimens of Greyheaded Wagtails killed near Lille, and one similar Wagtail killed there with a head quite black, and in fact the same as the black-headed yellow Wagtail of the south of Europe, and also as Mr. Vingoe's Cornish specimen, except that the latter has, I think, a little white mark near die eye. There were also nearly pure albinoes of the common Yellow Wag- tail and the Tree Pipit ; two specimens of the Turdus Atrigularis, said to have been killed at Amsterdam ; a nestling Golden Oriole, taken from the nest near Lille ; a nestling Ring Ouzel, very differ- ent from the adult, and spotted almost like a young Blackbird ; a Siberian Bunting ( Emhcriza chrysophrys, Pall. ), caught near Lille ; a nestling Little Gull from the Ural Mountains ; and lastly, a Great Auk, bought by Dr. Degland of a dealer at Amsterdam in 1835. TO RUSSIA AND BACK. I9 It seems a small adult bird, with the cheek spots quite white, and also the throat, except the chin, which is black." My next move was to Calais, where, on the 28th of October, I had a good opportunity of watching a Velvet Scoter, which was swimming between the piers. I suspect it had swum there purposely, as the next day there were two, seemingly both females. They were diving in the most unconcerned manner, but I know not whether they were fishing, or whether they were trying to escape the stones with which a gang of small street Arabs were pelting them. A little flock of Purple Sandpipers proved even more interesting than the Scoters. I was watching their quaint actions at the edge of the water, when a man came up and began to stone them also. Stoning seems a favourite diversion of the French. Walking home I saw a Woodcock flying wildly among the chimney tops. A Chaffinch was shown me which had killed itself against the lighthouse, a lofty structure which can be clearly seen from Dover. A wire netting has been found necessary to protect the lantern from the birds which dash against it. The keeper showed me into a room where there were about eighty species of birds set up, all of which he asserted had killed themselves against that light. I can hardly credit it, al- though he made the same assertion to my father, for there were several which appeared to me most unlikely to be obtained in such a way, e.g., Montague's Harrier, Rock Thrush, Little Bittern, Avocet, Purple Heron, Red-necked Grebe, (full breeding plumage,) Razorbill, and Gulls, The story he told my father was that, in 1855 a Whooper Swan flew against the lantern, and broke the glass and its own wing. This was stuffed, and after that specimens of all the species which killed themselves against the glass had been preserved. The tickets testify that the collection has been long finished. Of late years all the birds have gone 20 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. to a collector at Saint Pierre, but for the last two years the keeper admits that nothing but Larks and small birds have been got* Proceeding to Boulogne, I found that most of the birds in the Museum there had been collected by M. Demarle of Douai, but the rare Capped Petrel bears the name of Lebeau Lonquety as donor. There are local specimens (as indicated by two blue lines upon the ticket) of the Spotted Eagle, Crested Titmouse, King Duck, and Caspian Tern, besides four Purple Waterhens, which may not have been really wild. Only the Eagle and Titmouse are included in the list in Bertrand's History of Boulogne by Demarle, en- titled " Oiseaux observes dans le Boulonnais." And here my notes on this journey terminate. Leaving in a steamer at 6.30 for Folkestone I had a quick passage, but did not see many birds worthy of record. I have, how- ever, once seen Fulmar Petrels about midway in the straits. I mistook them at first for Gulls, until as they came nearer, their buoyant flight attracted my closer attention, and I made out what they really were. I have also sometimes seen great flocks of restless Scoter Ducks, particularly in November, 1870, near Ostend, and parties of Puffins and Gannets prowling along in pairs ; and I have known the steamer go so close to a Red-throated Diver as nearly to run it down. •* A Wild Duck once flew against Happisburgh lighthouse, in Nor- folk, broke the glass and indented the copper; but this is nothing to a story of what happened at the Lundy Island lighthouse. One frosty night a large flock came full tilt against the lantern, the glass of which was 5/16 of an inch thick, which they immediately broke. Seven of the foremost were killed by the concussion, but the rest flew through the breach, and actually smashed the glass on the other side, leaving nine more of their number slain. The relics of this gallant band passed through in safety over the dead bodies of their com- rades ; and the keeper, as compensation for the smash, netted a haul of eight couple of Wild Ducks. MY JOURNAL THE ALGERIAN SAHARA, Monday, 2^th of January, 1870. A SWARM of low-class Arabs and swarthy negroes pounced upon me as I stepped on to the quay at Oran, and bade me yield my luggage to their care. Pestered with their importunities I fled to the custom house, and while my cases were undergoing a nominal examination, the official in charge drove back the exasperated crowd of mendicant porters, until I could select two less frantic than the rest, to carry my baggage up to the hotel. It was a lovely day. Oran, the westernmost town in Algeria, a French seaport and chief place of the province, lay spread before me. It is no inconsiderable place, having a population half as large as that of Algiers, two hotels, a theatre, z. place, a market, and sundry large bureaus ; but it is not much visited by tourists. In this instance it appeared that there were some English there already, for a party of sportsmen who, I heard belonged to our nationality, had been out shooting, and had just brought back three wild boars : stretched upon the pavement they lay with bullet holes in their rugged sides. There is no lack of them in the brushwood on the 22 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. mountains, but the sport is considered expensive, owing to the number of beaters required. After duly inspecting them, I remembered that I had come to Africa to study birds ; and all athirst for unknown species, I ascended to Fort St. Croix. Having satisfactorily identified some Dartford Warblers, {Melisophilns luidatus) whose flight was very weak, especially if there was any wind, I worked my way home by another path, noting as I went along the Kestrel (Tinnuncuhis alaiidarijis), the Black-headed Warbler (Sylvia mdano- cephala), the Corn Bunting (Emberiza iniliaria), the Wren (Troglodytes parvuliis), and the Grey Wagtail (Motacilla siilphiirea, Beck.), flirting about by a ditch of water. Other birds I saw in the distance, but enough had been identified to show that the avifauna of Algeria was not so very difl"erent from that of England ; however, on the hillside I listened to a truly African bird (as I believe), the Dusky Ixos (Ixos obsatrus). Its notes rang through the newly- planted pine groves. There were three in the market, which confirms my impression that the bird I heard was the Ixos. It is said to have occurred in Britain. It is very sombre coloured. I made notes of two species not in- cluded in the late Mr. Drake's "Birds of Eastern Morocco," (Ibis, 2nd series. III., p. 142. — V., p. 147,) the irrepressible Sparrow (Passer domesticus), which I thought I had left behind me in England, and the Barbary Partridge (Caccabis petrosa), which flies fast and straight with neck outstretched, making as much noise with its wings as our grey one when flushed, and giving utterance to a shrill note or two. I was surprised to see some in the town with their throats 7iot cut, which the Arabs generally insist upon doing, for your true Mahommedan conceives himself forbidden by the direct law of the prophet to eat anything which has not died by the knife. I afterwards got eleven eggs of this Partridge. There was a steamer to Algiers on the 2Sth, a distance of THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 23" about 250 miles, which I preferred to travelling over land. It was a clear day and a calm sea, and we coasted along near enough to observe the verdant hills, in some places sparsely covered, in others clothed with rich foliage. I stood on deck watching some Manx Shearwaters, until the blue bay of Algiers came in sight, and we cast anchor at a short distance from the boulevards, constructed for the French government by Sir Morton Peto. Algiers is one of those places which have been so much written about, that nothing more remains to be said. Piesse's " Itineraire de I'Algerie," and Bernard's " Indicateur de I'Algerie," give a sufficiently good account of it, and to them I refer the reader. An astonishing number of English make it their winter quarters, the climate being recommended in cases of consumption and lung disease ; and some of them hire houses, and have delightful gardens, in the suburb of Mustapha. The Moorish part of the town is highly interest- ing, while the French part can boast of capital hotels (the Hotel d'Orient is perhaps the best,) and a great number of first-class shops. There is very good society, and plenty to see in the neighbourhood for those who do not go further into the interior. I copy the following extracts from some correspondence in the ''Field',' which may be of use to anyone intending to go there. " Houses can be obtained in the suburbs at ^20 to ^40 per inonth furnished, and the owners let them generally only for the season of six months, and not for a less period. English furniture would be 'useless here, or at any rate quite incongruous. The houses, moreover, are let furnished. There are no dependable house agents. It is a good plan to come here early, perhaps in the beginning of October, and stoj) at an hotel until a selection of a house can be made. There are doctors of all nations in the season. Horses can be bought at all prices, from ;^8 to ;^i2o. The best horses that can be bought (for the Arabs will not sell 24 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. their best) are to be had for 3,000 francs ; any higher price that may be paid is money thrown away. Very fair horses may be hired at' ^^5 per month, the hvery-stableman keeping them and providing saddles and bridles. Good servants are very difficult to obtain, especially for short periods. A thorough good cook earns nearly at the rate of ^^30 per annum. W. P. B. (Algiers, April 9th, 1873.) " For a sportsman Algiers, or rather its vicinity, affords excellent shooting ; Snipe and Duck, golden and grey [?] Plover, being the principal winter game ; and in spring great quantity of Quail can be got. I remember killing ten brace of Quail in a few hours. "Within two days' journey of Algiers there is a large lake called Lac Alloula, where capital sport can be had. It is covered with wild duck in the winter with a good supply of geese and wild swans, and the margin of the lake is full of Snipe — a friend and myself killing forty couple of Snipe and several Bittern in a few hours. * '■'' * "' ^ * Waverley. (Oct. 21st, 1872.) For a graphic account of this lake, and the ornithological treasures to be had there, see the " Ibis" for i860, p. 149. I procured from Madame Loche (the widow of the dis- tinguished ornithologist) a Golden Eagle (Aquila cJirysaetos), which had been killed at Arba, twenty miles distant from Algiers, about three months before. I also saw another alive. Captain Loche had several, but they, with other Accipitres to the number of 180, perished in the following manner. An earthquake occasioned the fall of an immense wall, beneath which was the " fauconnerie," and alas ! it buried in its debris the precious birds which it had taken the Captain ten years to collect. The adventures I had in getting a " permis de chasse " were quite as amazing as Canon Tristram's. It did not cost so much as an English game license, but the number of officials whose signatures were necessary was something THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 2$ awful. The mayor did me the honour to write " my descrip- tion." From him I obtained the gratifying information that my hair was chestnut, my nose regular, my beard fair, my chin short, my eyes brown, and my complexion red ! ! The next day I left early for Mustapha to explore the lanes there. This beautiful suburb is the Richmond of Algiers, and the favoured resort of the best families. My first shot was at a female Black -headed Warbler. Instead of slate colour as in the cock, the back was brown, and the head no darker than a Lesser Whitethroat's. Males of this species would appear to preponderate. After crossing several fields, and losing a specimen of Chlorospiza aiirantiiventris, the interesting Algerian representative of our Greenfinch,* from which it can scarcely be said to be distinct, I came to a wooded valley, where I had a couple of shots at an Ichneuman. I missed him, and never had a chance of getting another. Here I fell in with a Serin (Scrinus Jiortuloriiin), singing merrily even then, at a period when winter had hushed for a time the notes of most of its congeners. One of the rarer British birds, it may be dis- tinguished at a glance from the hen Siskin, the only one on the list with which it could be confounded, by its thicker beak. Trying to scramble up some sandrocks I disturbed a dozing Barn Owl, which, being brought to bag, proved a very spotted specimen, with the bars of the tail more defined than in English examples. The next bird was a Cirl Bunting (Euibcri::a cirliis), not an uncommon species in Algeria. Then leaving the valley I gradually worked my way home by the sea shore, and the only bird I procured was the White Wagtail (JHotacilla alba), but the blue bay beneath me, and the transcendent scene, made up for the small bag, and I returned well satisfied with my walk. • In the summer of 1871, I saw an Algerian Greenfinch in the Zoological Gardens, supposed to be eight years old. 26 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. February },rd. Bought a cock Sandgrouse (Pterocles arenariiis, Pall.) at the poulterer's, killed at Aumale, and went to the " Exposition," which is in one of the arches below the " Place du Government." M. Loche's birds are nicely set up and arranged, but the space devoted to them is not very large. The rest of his collection of skins is now dispersed. I saw his eggs at No. 9, Rue Marine, which are very good indeed. There were several drawers of duplicates. February 6th. Observed a curious pale-coloured variety of the Robin in the market, and also a slightly pied Black- bird. A short time ago I read of a single taxidermist having twenty-nine pied Blackbirds to stuff in about a twelvemonth in Ireland. Surely they are as common there as pied Ring Ouzels are in Alsace and Lorraine. I have never had more than one or two since I began to collect birds. February jth, Sunday. Attended service in one of the arches beneath the " Boulevards." The large congregation showed how much need there was for the English Protestant Church, a site for which had been found not far from the Eastern gate, and which was already near completion. I began the new week at Blida, so famed for its delicious oranges, which are exported to Paris where one may see " Blida oranges " advertised in the shop windows. Among its scented groves I daily sauntered, and found the same choristers which we have at home. The familiar garden Thrush was quite common, and so were Redbreasts. Willow Wrens and tuneful Blackcaps seemed to abound every- where. Starlings, Titlarks, and Linnets were in some num- bers, and the sprightly Blackbird was not uncommon. But most beautiful of all were the Buff-backed Herons ; perched on the backs of cattle, they stand like alabaster images, and no herdsman but gladly makes them welcome. Here I shot the rare Dipper, or Pale -backed Water Ouzel, des- cribed by Dr. Tristram as Ciuclus minor (Ibis, 1870, p. 496,) THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 2/ but since assigned in Dresser's " Birds of Europe " (Part 24 and 25, p. 3) to C. albicollis (Vicill). Loche says of it in the " Exploration Scientifique," p. 306 — "Le cincle plongeur, que nous n'avons rencontre que tres accidentellement en Algerie y semble excessivement rare, et il est supposable qu'il ne doit y etre que de passage." But M. Germain, at p. 6^, says : — "Sedentaire — Se recontre sur le cours de \oucd — Anasscur (Milianah)." On the 1 6th I caught a green Lizard, about a foot and a quarter long, but having nothing to preserve it in, set it at liberty. While I was in the " Tell,"* and afterwards in the Sahara, I had not much time to attend to anything but birds. I however made notes of a Water Tortoise at Miliana, of a Weasel (apparently the same as ours), of some Bats, and of Foxes in the rocks at Boghari, and of a few other things which will be mentioned in the course of my narrative. On the 17th I took the Diligence to Boumedfa, a village stated to contain about 270 inhabitants, (though I should have supposed it much less,) and leaving again on the i8th, moved to the fortified town of Miliana. Miliana is a place of considerable importance. Its ornithology has been worked by Monsieur Germain, but I \vas not aware of the existence of his paper, or I should not have been so much surprised at meeting with Rnticilla ]lIoitssicri,-\ a beautiful bird of restricted range, which he makes the subject of a long note ; or at shooting Pants Icdoiicii (Malh.), figured in Sharpe and Dresser's " Birds of Europe," and the only ^ The " Tell " is the mountainous country of the Atlas, from the sea to the commencement of the Sahara. f In Captain Shelley's collection I recently noticed a male marked " Blida, ist of March, 1S73." 28 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Specimen they could obtain for their work. The latter is very like our English Coal Tit. From M. Germain's list, printed in the " Nouvelles Archives du Museum d'histoire Naturelle," I., p. 59, (Paris) and entitled " Catalogue Raisonne des oiseaux observes dans la subdivision de Milianah," I cull a few remarks on this species : — "Commune dans les forets de chenes du Zaccar, des Beni — Menasser et des montagnes de la rive gauche du Chelif. A Milianah, elle descend quelquefois en hiver dans les jardins les plus ele'ves. Partout ou Ton rencontre cette espt;ce, on est certain de trouver le Geai cervical (Garrnhis cervicalis) qui, comme elle, parait ne se rencontre qu'a une altitude determinee, que j'evalue a sept on huit cents metres au dessus du niveau de la mer. Je crois aussi que ces deux especes n'habitent que les regions eleves oil la neige est durable en hiver." Of this species also M. Labonysse, in his " Lettre sur les oiseaux de la partie littorale de la province de Constantine,"* says : — • " La Mesange Ledoux pratique en terre, dans le foret de I'Edough, un trou de Oiii 15, de profondeur, ou elle etablit son nid. Elle a ete observe'e pour la premiere fois le 16 Avril, 1842." (Annales de Societe' d' Agriculture de Lyon, 1853, p. 15.) Another rarity which I got at Miliana was Cetti's Warbler (Ccttia sericca, Natt), a tame little bird which ventured quite up to houses on the outskirts of villages. I found it equally in woods and gardens, but always near a ditch. At Algiers I got one, and at Blida three specimens. On the 25th I moved from Miliana to Boufarik, once a mere morass, but now an important place numbering 4,000 inhabitants. There are a good many Griffon Vultures near * About no species are included, with some notes of considerable interest, besides a short article on domestic birds in this " letter." THE ALGERIAN SAHARA, 29 here. Monsieur Jeannot, ornithologist, Hotel du Mazagram, showed me a pair killed with ball in the plain of Metidja. About April he told me some of the cattle generally die, and when the hot weather has made them partly putrid, a score or more of these Vultures will come from the moun- tains to feed on them, and in this way they are occasionally obtained. I did not get one then, but I bought a ragged skin (nearly adult) of a Zouave at Laghouat, which has since been made presentable by Mr. Burton, of Wardour Street. At a wood outside the village, as I was sitting on a little bridge, I saw an old Jackal quietly coming up the ditch at a slow swing trot. I watched him with a binocular- glass until he was within twenty-five yards, when probably scenting me, he leapt into the wood. On the 26th I returned to Algiers, and on the ist of March I made my start for the Great Desert, having laid in a good stock of things for the journey, including a sovereign's worth of alcohol for preserving reptiles. By train to Blida, and by "diligence" to Medea along a first- rate French road, is the route, passing through the famed gorge of the Chiffa. Here I stopped at the " Ruisseau des Singes" aiibcrgc, where Canon Tristram tried in vain to obtain accommodation, and saw exactly the same species of birds as he saw, ("The Great Sahara," p. 33) including the Blue Thrush (PctrocossypJiiis cyanens). I did not obtain a specimen of it, for I had no opportunity of using a gun, but I bought a female in winter plumage at Algiers. I never saw it again in my Algerian travels, nor did I ever come across the Rock Thrush (Moiiticola saxatilis). There are a good many Monkeys on the beetling sides of this verdant, rocky, pass. Two at the " auberge " ap- peared to be the same sort as I saw at Gibraltar. The Barbary Ape I believe they are called. , The Medea road passes through a line of forest country. 30 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. The Arabs burn the bark off the trees, which is as valuable as our oak bark is to us in England, but this practice ruins the picturesque. Beneath many a stately monarch of the forest we passed, now scorched and blackened. I believe these great woods are chiefly composed of oak, ilex, and cork ; seven sorts of oaks are enumerated in Piesse's " Itineraire de I'Algerie." They form a safe home for such woodland birds as Pica niaiiritanica, Lanins anriailatiis, and Friiigilla spodiogena, which nest here in perfect security. Perched on one scathed limb, a noble Eagle seemed to keep guard over all around him : he eyed us as we approached him, and it was not until we were almost within gunshot that he condescended to stretch his broad pinions. After a long drive, Boghari came in view, an Arab village, close to the town of Boghar, and the usual stopping place for travellers as there is an inn there, and to ascend to the town would be much further. Here the traveller may taste '' C0USC071S," an Arab preparation of barley, milk, meat, and fruits. It is variously called couscous and couscoiisoo. He will also see the black nomadic tents of camels' hair, which he is afterwards destined to sleep in. They are very ill- constructed, and so low, that you can barely stand upright in the middle. A partition divides them into two chambers, one for the men, and one for the women where the cooking is done. They are generally made of camels* hair, some- times of goats' hair, interwoven with wool, black or in coloured stripes. They are propped up with sticks, and are grimy in the last degree. To sum up the description of them, they are the reverse of picturesque at a distance, and present a filthy appearance on closer inspection ! Half a dozen surly dogs mount guard, and so obstreperous are they that I was several times on the point of shooting them, and only refrained from fear of offending their masters. After inspecting the Jews' quarter, which is worth a visit for the sake of seeing the Jewesses who dress very gaily, THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 3 1 wearing a variety of ornaments, and peeping into a Moorish bath, the inner room of which was intensely hot, and ex- amining the stock in trade of a negro who dealt in jewelry, scent, spurs, purses, and swords, and after collecting speci- mens of the Black Whcatear (Saxicola Icuatra), Little Owl (Athene glanx), Rock Dove (Columbalivia, Lin., C. tiirricola Bp.). and Ultramarine Tit (Pants tenerijfcc, Less.), I made the discovery that I had seen all that was worth seeing at Boghari, and on the 8th I ensconced myself and my impedi- menta in the weekly " Diligence." Six horses drag it. In the " Tell " eight are not considered too many ; indeed I sometimes saw ten to a large vehicle, but then admirable as the French government roads are, the hilly nature of the country must be remembered. Mules and horses are yoked indifferently to the same vehicle. The first caravanserai is Bougzoul. It is in the " Hauts Plateaux." A caravanserai in Algeria is a one-storied forti- fied house, enclosing a large court-yard, with chambers on two sides for the accommodation of travellers, and stabling for several horses. The "Hauts Plateaux" is a term for the northern portion of the Little Desert (or Algerian Sahara), which commences where the " Tell " ends, and ter- minates at Waregla. The water at Bougzoul is nearly unfit for drinking ; it comes from the neighbouring marsh where the phenomenon of mirage may be seen. Canon Tristram found a profusion of aquatic birds at this marsh — Flamingos, Ruddy Shelducks, White-headed Ducks (Eris- matura mcrsa), Gull-billed Terns, White-winged Black Terns, Stilts, Purple Gallinules, Great-sedge Warblers, etc. When I was there it was nearly dry. The Sandgrouse, and the Desert Wheatear (Saxicola deserti, Rupp.) had sup- planted the waders. I obtained however one Flamingo, and was assured by many persons that they are occasionally found dead under the newly-constructed military telegraph, as well as " Ganga " (Sandgrouse) and other birds. The 32 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. commonest bird at Bougzoul was the English Skylark, next to that the Calandra, and then Reboud's Lark (Calendrella minor, Cab. ; C. reboiidia, Tristram). The Skylarks were still in flocks, but the Calandras had paired. February nth. Went a twelve-mile drive in the broiling sun with the keeper of the caravanserai. At some Arab tents we were entertained with coffee, hot bread, and Msab dates, in return for which we gave our hosts as much powder and shot as we could spare. Coming home wc saw eight Cranes (Grns cinerca) marching abreast across the plain in the grey twilight. We guided the cart nearly to within gunshot, when they all ran together with their heads up, and without uttering any call, slowly sailed away, to seek safer quarters in the adjoining marsh. There is just enough traffic to mark a road over the desert to Ain-oussera, a lonely caravanserai with a muddy stream winding before the entrance. Nothing but a scanty herbage clothes the plain, a coarse kind of grass, to the height of two or three feet, (different from u^hat grows in the zveds) forming a bleak retreat for the Desert Wheatear, the Dotterel, and the Tawny Pipit. Well may Dr. Tristram term this place "a genuine piece of desert." In front, behind, and on either side stretches the vast Sahara. Sometimes level, often un- dulating, like a great sea of sand it stretches away. In some places the soil is soft and sandy (where it is red it is very soft), in some, hard and pebbly; but the herbage is everywhere reduced to a minimum. Every chott and SebkJira* is coated with a saline incrustation, and the tan- talising mirage leads the traveller to suppose that he has in view a magnificent lake. Seen from afar the resemblance is perfect, but as he draws near, the mists are dissipated, and the lake resolves itself into bushes, rocks, or even camels. As the setting sun sheds its glare over this treeless plain of ** Salt lakes of more or less extent. THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 33 Ain-oussera, and the shadows lengthen, one feels inclined to speculate on the not distant period when bands of lawless Bedouins roamed over the desert now so completely brought under French jurisdiction. Should the Nomads again break out, a (ew days will suffice to bring a column from Algiers sufficient to subdue any insurrection. Aleanwhile the Barbary states remain at peace, from the palm-shaded oases of Tripoli to the bazaars and gardens of Moorish Tangiers, and not even the reverses in the terrible Franco- German war emboldened the Bedouin to attempt another rising, so deep is their respect for the "chassepot," and for French military organisation. February \2tJ1. Breakfasted sumptuously offaHoubara Bustard (Houbara uiidulata, Bp.), an agreeable change after the customary meal of goat. This magnificent bird is still common. I saw three at Ain-oussera, and afterwards at Lairhouat no less than seven were brought to me. In one old cock the feathers which composed the ruff were seven inches long. The master of the caravanserai killed a pair of Grey- headed Wagtails. I afterwards obtained some brilliant specimens at Laghouat. One had a white throat, dark ear-coverts, and no white line from the eye to the beak. But this variety, generally called Biidytes einereicapida (Savi), merges on one side into B. flava (L.), and on the other to B. melanoccpJiala (Liclit), and has no constant characters to establish its specific difference. Loche ob- tained the three, and treats them as separate (Catalogue, p. 80) ; but subsequent research has proved that B. ciiicreica- Dilla at any rate is not a good species. It was not until the 13th of March that I noticed a Hoopoe (UpHpa cpops). It happened to be Sunday, and I was re- clining on a stack, when at a distance I observed what at first I took to be some great Creeper coming right at me. I marked where he settled, watched his habits a considerable D 34 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. time, and the next day shot him. Though I have since had the rare chance of scrutinizing this bird in England * it did not afford me so much pleasure as this my first encounter with it at Ain-oussera. Afterwards I saw a pair at Laghouat feeding on a path, near to which the commandant had planted a row of willows, and one of them flew up to rub its bill against a branch, a very common action in birds to get rid of soil after feeding. On going to the place I dis- covered a number of dead locusts under the trees. Now was the Hoopoe feeding on them ? The tongue in this species is very small, hence there is no groove on the inside of the lower mandible. MarcJi \Afth. Shot a Desert Wheatear, which had lost seven toes ! It was a female, the only female I obtained. Saxicola homochroa (Trist.) is stated by Mr. Dresser to be referable to the female of this species (P. Z. S., 1874, p. 225). A rather favourite perch of the Desert Wheatear is the Laghouat telegraph wire, on which the French there pin their faith, and to cut which would be the greatest crime an Arab could commit, for it would be tantamount to rebellion. Guelt-El-Stel. March 20th. I came here on the i6th, having passed — novel sight — a clump of trees about forty feet high. On one was a Moorish Magpie, on another a Raven, on another a Neophron or Egyptian Vulture, Doubtless in a month's time each -tree would have its nest. Two armed Arab troopers came to the caravanserai with five prisoners, also Arabs ; they had chains round their necks. They reminded me of the poor prisoners I have seen in chains marching through the streets of Moscow. Among other birds that I collected here were the Stapazine Wheatear (Saxicola rufa) and Tree Pipit ; the latter with flesh-coloured claws, but precisely like ours in other respects, and coming north with the migratory tide. By Monsieur • In May, 1874, at Leyton in Essex (cf. Zoologist, 4035). THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 35 Taczanouski this Pipit was seen continually, (Zoologist, p. 2584) "from after the month of March." 2 1 St. Our route lay between Zahrez and Sebka Zahrez, great shallow lakes, stated by Canon Tristram to be nearly thirty miles long in wet weather. I could not go near enough to them to see the myriads of Flamingos which he saw, but on one of the streams which flows into them I ob- served a Tern, probably of the White-winged species. At Rocher-de-Sel the soil becomes more sandy, while a frost- like whiteness coats the plain. After passing the Salt Mountains (from which the caravanserai takes its name), the country assumes a more fertile appearance. These mountains are worth a visit. At a little distance they pre- sent a blue appearance. At Djelpha I witnessed an interesting spectacle. An Arab tribe with upwards of a hundred camels and numerous horses were getting ready for an expedition, and were having a grand review before starting. Tearing as hard as they could go over the plain in pairs, they suddenly caused their horses to swerve — one to the right, the other to the left — discharging, as they wheeled round, their long guns at the feet of the spectators. The white burnouses waving in the air, the clouds of dust, and the cries of the combatants, made this wild fantasia the more like a battle, while the eye was arrested by their swarthy visages and the splendid trappings of their horses. Eight gaudy palanquins (each borne by a camel, and surmounted with a bundle of sticks and a tuft of leaves,) contained the wives of the chief Agha. Doubtless mounted on his best Mahri* camels, they in the hour of battle would be kept in the rear, that they might be ready to escape into the wilderness, should the day go against their Bedouin lord. At this place Roman ruins terminate. None are known * The tall white Dromedary of the Touareg Arabs. 36 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. further south, which would seem to attest that beyond Djelpha the Romans never penetrated into the Sahara. As I was in haste to get to Laghouat I did not sleep at Djelpha, but pressed on as soon as dinner was over. Near the " Assassination Rock," so named from several dreadful murders having been committed there, we passed through a small flight of locusts, and that was the only incident worth mentioning, until tired and weary we beheld the banner of France floating over the fortress of El Aghouat, the pearl of the desert, the key of the Great Sahara. Laghouat (Lar'ouat) or El Aghouat, according as we prefix the French or Arab article, is the last French outpost. So far civilization extends and no further; be- yond is nominal submission of the " tribus indigenes," men who, like the Chamba and the Touareg, trust to the fleet- ness of their camels, and own no master. An exception only must be made in the case of the Mzab, who are a peaceful nation and the good allies of the French. Situated on the right bank of the river Mzi — I should hesitate to say river, for it is only in wet seasons that there is any water — Laghouat is, in fact, the first oasis. Twenty thousand matchless palms encompass the town, forming a noble belt of verdure, beneath which the vine, the fig, the pomegranate, and the apricot interlace their foliage, ming- ling in rank confusion. About half a mile to the north the "river" forms a small marsh, which I found to be an ex- cellent collecting ground. Nearly all the houses are white, flat-roofed, and made of mud-bricks. The same materials partition off the Arab gardens. In the centre of the town, and half way between the two forts, is the Place de Randon, named after Marshal Randon. It is a neat French square, with a sort of bazaar on one side and the officers' club on the other, embellished by about a dozen palms. Many of the streets are entirely occupied by Arabs, and present a very uninviting appearance. The heat inducing a natural THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 37 apathy amonc^ these gentry, some of them are generally to be seen stretched at full length on the pavement, wrapped in the universal burnous, which approximates so nearly in colour to sand and boulders, that at Boghari I used to find it very hard to distinguish them. Without a burnous you never see an Arab. These garments have no arms, but are open down the middle, so that when the wearer applies himself to manual labour, he must either throw one side over his shoulder or take it off altogether, and the lazy Arabs universally do the former. Banish from your mind all high-flown sentiment, for there is nothing picturesque about them. The French have improved away the old stock, and the present people are their degenerate descendants. Not so the Chamba and the Touareg, wild tribes of the true desert, who still cherish a deadly hatred towards that people against whom their hardy fathers swore eternal enmity. There are very few French besides the military, and they lose no opportunity of endeavouring to render themselves more popular ; but it is misspent energy. The old antipathy still exists, and the Arabs are and ever will be jealous of them. By nature a distrustful people, they deem every improvement an innovation. Their masters may strive to ingratiate themselves by acts of kindness, but they cannot put down popular feeling, any more than they can obliterate the remembrance of the severity with which the rebellion of 1864 was met, a severity which perhaps was necessary, but which will ever rankle in the bosoms of a vancjuished people. ]\Iarc]i 2/[tk. Shot two Aquatic Warblers ( Acroccphahis aquaticns). The legs are rather whiter than the Sedge Warbler's, and the iris is not red as figured by Dr. Bree, but dark brown. I found them chiefly in the rushes. They are restless little birds, but sometimes they settle at the bottom of a reed, and then is the best chance of getting them. 38 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. April 2,rd. I strolled to-day in an easterly direction to a place where I had shot one of a pair of Galerida macro- rJiynca (Trist.), G. randoni {Loche. Revue et Mag., de Zool., April, i860, p. 148, plate XL, fig. 2), and found the other apparently mated again. They are the only ones I have seen here, though Canon Tristram found them " abun- dant near Laghouat." They were quite tame, and evidently meant to nest if they had not eggs already. While I was watching them, a number of shadows attracted my attention, and looking up I saw a flight of locusts overhead. I have been several times made aware of locusts by first seeing their shadows on the ground. I must not omit to state that I shot a Blue-throated Warbler (Cyanecula lencocyanca ?), with the chest spot partly white and partly red. Un- fortunately it was too much shattered for preserving. Loche mentions having shot near Brouage specimens with the chest spot "roussatre" (Exploration, Sc. V., p. 224), Every evening, almost before the sun went down, I used to hear the hooting of the Little Owls ( Atliene glaitx, Sav.), and again at daybreak I could hear them. The ear in this species is nearly round, and not large for an Owl. One day I observed a Black Wheatear (Saxicola Icnciird) on some rocks in the town. As the eye wanders over the dreary landscape, it is a relief to see one of these handsome fellows spreading his tail on a grey rock, and displaying himself to advantage as the pairing season approaches. I have found on this Saxicole a formidable white-bodied tick with eight legs. The Frenchmen at Laghouat call them "Merle de Roche," a name applied by Buffon to the Rock Thrush. On another occasion I saw a Goldfinch in the town. This common species yields in beauty to none. To my mind, if you see them in the sunshine, they are brighter than the brightest butterflies ; but African specimens of many birds surpass English in richness of colouring. Loche adds that as a rule they are smaller, but this is certainly not the case THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 39 with the Tawny Owl (Strix ahico, Lin.), of which there are two very large specimens in the Algiers Museum, and which the late Mr. Verreaux proposed to describe as a distinct species, and name after my father.* On Sunday, happening to be out for a stroll, I observed twelve Vultures at a distance, circling round a mountain ; and having nothing to do, I determined to cultivate their nearer acquaintance. When however I got to the foot I counted them again and there were were only eleven, but the twelfth, while I was wondering what had become of him, leisurely turned out from behind a boulder, not fifty paces from me, and displaying the huge body and pinions of a stately Griffon (Gyps fiilviis) slowly sailed away to where his mates were still performing their aerial evolutions. That he had been gorging I have no doubt, which would account for his tameness, for on no other occasion did I ever get so near one, though I often saw them at a distance. I will only mention the Swallow for the sake of saying that it is a mistake to suppose that this bird, or any of the European Hinuidinidcv (except Cotylc rupcstris, the most stay-at-home of all the family,) pass the winter in Algeria. It was not until the end of February that I observed Swallows, and I am convinced that few, if any, remain throughout the year. On the 26th and 27th of March we experienced a very cold wind at Laghouat, and so be- numbed were they that hundreds might have been killed with stones. The poor birds were to be seen sitting about in all directions. I shall not forget one affecting incident of which I was a witness. I found a Swallow lying dead in the town with its mate beside it, and although the poor creature had been some time dead, she would not leave it. Constant to her post beside its head, she sang (if their notes * Specimens of this Algerian race are preser\-ed in the Norwich Museum. 40 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. can be called anything more than a twitter,) and heeded not my approach until I could almost have touched her ; and before I had gone three yards she was back again. I quite felt for the unlucky little bird, as I watched her trying to restore her partner to life by every means in her power, and wailing out her lamentations at her vain efforts. The House Martin was so far affected by the same cold wind of March 27th, that I found many in the early morning upon the sand, and others clinging to the mud-brick walls which partition off the gardens. I caught some with my hat, which will give an idea of their extreme feebleness. While enumerating the principal birds, I wish also to make some mention of other animals. Once I shot what I suppose to have been a Short-tailed Marmot, and occasion- ally I could have shot Hares, but did not, as they would have been too much trouble to carry home. I brought back to England a Panther's skin, a brace of Boar tusks, a fine head of Gazelle, Gazclla dorcas, (of my own preparing) and several curiosities in mythellated spirits, including a Chameleon exactly like one of my father's, which he had alive and kept a long time by feeding it on meal worms. In every direction are to be seen the singular footprints of the Jerboa, or jumping mouse, whose holes perforate the plain. I got one and kept it alive some days. I found two huge frogs at the foot of a garden wall, on the edge of the marsh. Large Lizards were often brought in. Con- cerning them and Serpents I shall have something to say in another place. On the brink of the stream which feeds the small and half-dry marsh, there are a good many water tortoises. When one gets near them they slip into the deep water like English flounders. I do not remember having ever seen any Butterflies, but Beetles of every size and shape swarm. The Ant of the desert digs a curious struc- ture, though not on the scale of magnitude of its mor^ THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 4I southern relatives, as described to us by many African travellers. I left Laghouat on the 9th of April for the Mzab. For this expedition I had engaged by way of a Dragoman an Arab named Mahommed Belhuri, and another to act under him, named Mzoud. We bestrode two mules, and behind us came Mzoud on a camel, beneath whose belly slung a goat-skin containing our water for three or four days. I had also a joint of meat, a keg of wine, a dozen new loaves, six boxes of sardines, a German sausage, a supply of cheese, a paper of cigars, the first and second volume of Sclater's " Ibis," and a new journal-book. Thus armed and equipped I proposed to explore the Mzab country, and see if the inhabitants were the fiery sons of Ishmael which they had been represented to be. By ten a.m. we sallied out of the south gate, breathing all manner of slaughter against rare birds, and began our journey. As we rode along I shot two new to me, the Bifasciated Lark (CcrthilaiLcia dcsertoruni) , and the Bleached Shrike (Lanius latJiora). I never got the former again in Algeria, but I saw the latter daily infesting every Mzab garden. A favourite perch is the bottom of a Palm's crest, where the fronds are broken short, whence they dart off to snatch the passing beetle, or rise into the air after the more high-flying locust. But what are my guides looking at so intently } A great thick snake. One of them jammed its head off with a pole. It was, as near as I remember, about three feet in length, but thick in pro- portion, with beautifully marked coils, something like our common Viper's. Only on two other occasions did I see snakes. There is one sort that the French are very much afraid of, called the " Vipere a corne." An English tourist is said to have encased his feet in tin boots as a protection against them. Though viewed from the highest rock in Laghouat, the Southern Sahara had appeared to be a boundless plain, we 43 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, soon descried dayats* ahead, and halting beneath their welcome shade, consumed our fruoal huich. Attentive Mohammed had provided a repast of roasted locusts, which tasted something like shrimps. The remains of a fire and the horns of a Gazelle showed that some travellers had been there before us. When the sun sank to her rest, our first day's journey Avas ended. We had reached more clumps of trees — Jujubes, Terebinths, Olives, etc. ; all the larger ones had Ravens' nests on them ; and I may here remark that the Ravens of Algeria appear to be much smaller than English ones. They moreover breed in society. In 1S67, L. Tacza- nouski, of the Warsaw Museum, was so struck with this difference in size that he refused to catalogue them as Corvns corax (Zoologist, p. 2587) ; and Lieut-Col. Irb}' has since bcsto\\'ed the name of Corvns tiiigitaiius on this variety (Ibis for 1S74, p. 264). Ravens are proverbial for their shyness, and I never had the luck to shoot one. Though glad to find other's carrion, or to make carrion of them if he can do it with impunity, as some writer has observed, the Raven takes good care that none shall make carrion of him. I have seen one pursue a bird of prey for a quarter of a mile, and on one occasion I witnessed a sharp fight between a Kite and a Raven, in which the blows of their wings could be plainly heard like distant pistol shots. Early next morning we descried some tents, where we were treated to dates, sheep's milk, and the staple dish couscous. This, their favourite repast, is served on a carpet, which is always spread on the arrival of strangers, for no Algerian would invite you to sit upon the ground. I ob- served several pairs of Bushchats (Saxicola mcusia, Licht., 6". philopJitJiamna, Trist.), hopping about it. They are pretty • Davats are miniature oases where there is no constant supply of water, and consequently no palms, though other trees grow there. THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 43 birds. Mr. Dresser, in the "Birds of Europe," part XVII., says : — " One of the least known of tlic Chats ; this species has a very restricted range, and has hitherto only been met with in North- western Africa, Palestine, and Persia, not having as yet been re- corded from any portion of the large intervening tract of country." He states that in summer the cock is much brighter than in winter, and figures the former plumage from a specimen obtained by Loche, who appears to have got them about the same time as Canon Tristram, but to have considered them the same as Dronwlcca isabclUna (cf. Ibis, 1S59, p. 299). Hanging in the tent wc had come to were the head and foot of a Griffon Vulture (jiissr), whilst several kids w^ere tethered to a cord inside, and outside others gambolled, and occasionally got upon the roof. Not far off two Egyptian Vultures, an old one and a young one, were dis- cussing the skeleton of a defunct animal. They are most effective scavengers, never, I believe, leaving a carcass while a bone remains unpicked. The young one permitted a very near approach, but the old one was more wary. Well known are they to the Arabs by their name of Rackma. Here I had opportunity of looking at the women, who in general are so jealously guarded by their masters as to be invisible to the stranger's inquisitive eye. They are short and bent, probably from carrying heavy waterskins. They appear to be kind to their children, and give them bracelets and earrings made of shells, beads, and bright pieces of tin. But the Arab himself has few ornaments to deck his shabby tenement. In flocks and herds his wealth consists. If there be enough tents to form a circle, these are driven in and folded at night, and are guarded by dogs of a savage breed against the Hyenas and Jackals which are lurking in the iveds. The Arab is his own cobbler, and a rough sort sort of (laced) boot he makes, but I suppose he thinks it better than walking barefoot over the soil, which in some 44 KAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. places is covered with pebbles, and in others with small bright stones. On the sand he prefers to go barefoot. Socks are not worn by the poorer class. Every man carries a knife, professedly for eating, but also for defence when occasion requires, and I fear for offence also, the " piping times of peace " being not much known in those dark lands. It is slung round his waist, and kept in its sheath by a piece of string passed through a hole in the handle. All classes tattoo themselves more or less, and Jicnna is in great re- quest among them, for staining their nails pink. Having added to our party an Arab named Ateya Banateya, whose local knowledge for the next few miles Avould be a great assistance to us, we now began to pass through a vast plain, slightly undulating, interspersed with dayats, each a mile or half a mile apart. Ateya inveighed against the French for imprisoning his son at Marseilles, who had joined in the revolt ; while Mohammed beguiled the time with an account of how when a boy he had gone to war with his father, and killed a man by spearing him in the back ; which was no doubt very plucky, but some rough unhewn stones by the wayside had a deeper tale for me than the exploits of either of them. I judged them to be the graves of wayfarers who had in all probability perished of thirst. They may have been the very cairns which Canon Tristram and Mr. Peed reverently contributed a stone to. Meanwhile I was on the " qui vive " for every- thing. [This region has been visited by only two ornitholo- gists, while the route from Waregla to Gardames is still a "terra incognita" to naturalists; for if the unfortunate M. M. Dupere and Joubert, who were murdered near that city, made any collections, they perished with them. I am convinced that an expedition there would repay any naturalist, for he would infallibly meet with forms of desert life unknown to science, and I would recommend him to pay particular attention to the Chats and Larks.] THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 45 I saw Ravens, Kestrels, Pigeons, Turtle Doves, and Hoo- poes, and other birds which I did not know, but we were pressed for time and could not collect many. I shot one small bird not unlike a VVhitethroat, which I have no doubt was a Spectacled Warbler (Sylvia conspicillata) . Canon Tristram calls it " the common and characteristic Warbler of the whole Sahara" (Ibis I., p. 417) ; but I only shot one other, and that was a female at Laghouat. Nearly every Terebinth of any size carried several nests, and the ground beneath them was white with the droppings of birds. As we rode along, the Desert Horned Lark (Otocorys bilopJia) ran before us, and twice I saw a benighted Wryneck crouching on the plain. Here was indeed a glorious country for a collector. I kept a look out for Ostriches, but never had the good fortune to see any. " The capture of the Ostrich," says Dr. Tristram, "is the greatest feat of hunting to which the Sahara sportsman aspires : and in richness of booty, it ranks next to the plunder of a caravan." To this I may add, that the feathers and the eggs are so highly prized, that they are worth more at Laghouat than in London. " A skin in full plumage is worth on the spot from 40 to lOO Spanish dollars," i.e. £22. Step by step civilization is driving this brevipennate southwards. Like the Garefowl of Geir fugla drangr (Alca inipcnnis), its ancient haunts know it no longer ; like that flightless bird, its appearance, its actual name will be forgotten, and in process of time its existence will become a matter of tradition to be talked about over the camp fire with the Roc and other legendary birds. So surely as the advancing hunter substitutes his express rifle for the firelock of the Arab will the Ostrich forsake the desert's fringe and seek an asylum far beyond the country of dates. Does not its impending extinction in the country I passed over typify the decay of the Nomad in the Northern Sahara .-" About noon on the second day we came to water, the 46 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. first we had seen since we started ; it was dirty, but my guides pronounced it drinkable. A Gazelle (Gazclla dorcas), which was quenching its thirst, suffered a near approach, but bounded over the plain when we were within sixty yards. I often saw these graceful animals, but they were generally very shy. When browsing at a distance they look like herds of sheep, though a practised eye can distinguish them in a minute. Once I was offered a lovely fawn alive, which I surmise had been caught in a trap set for Bustards in the LalpJia grass. I have seen them in confinement, but I have heard that they are very difficult things to rear successfully. We were obliged again to sleep in the open air. The Arabs kindled a fire, but it was bitterly cold. The wind had got up during the day, and at 9 p.m. it rained in torrents: of course our fire was speedily extinguished. The gusts now howled over the Sahara, vivid lightning shot across the sky, and terrific peals of thunder shook the firmament. In vain we shifted to the other side of the bush, under the lea of which we had endeavoured to obtain shelter : everything was completely soaked. We were in the saddle again before daybreak, but my wet burnous hung on me like a dead weight. The heavy rains of the preceding night seemed to have converted the Sahara into an expanse of mud. At length the Mozabite town of Berryan hove in sight, and leading our mules up a some- what steep ascent, we beheld the panorama of her Palm gardens, all of which had been laid under water by the recent rains. A carpet was quickly spread in an unoccupied house called the guest house, and the chief, with about thirty other Arabs, squatted round us in a circle. While Mohammed detailed our adventures I produced the cre- dentials which had been furnished by the " Commandant superieur" at Laghouat, and which were of the greatest possible service to us. Let me here thank that gentleman, and everyone also who contributed to the success of the ex- THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 47 pedition, for their courtesy to a stranger — a courtesy more stamped on the French than on any nation in the civilized world. Calling for a pipe (scbsi) and some tobacco, I had an opportunity of seeing the way the Mzab smoke. They brought me the bone of a sheep, about six inches long, with a bit of black leather fastened at the end. It was hollowed out, and in this makeshift for a bowl was inserted about half as much tobacco as one would put into an ordinary briar-root. The tobacco was quite green* and very strong, but fatigued as we were with the journey it was very accept- able, and had a soothing effect. It \vas a two-storied court where we were located. In the rafters I observed a pair of House Buntings (Fri)igiUaria saharm, Bp.). As this desert species is so little known in Europe, and as I was the first to bring the eggs and young to England, I shall be excused for copying '\\\ detail the account of it contributed by me to the " Ibis." " Emberiza SaJiari (Levt.) " Exploration Scientifique de I'Algerie." Plate IX., Bis. fig. 2. House Bunting of Tristram. " I think every house in Gardaia is tenanted by a pair of House Buntings. They are e lually common in the other ]\Izab cities. A nest in the inner court at Berryan was upon some plaster in a large square hole. It contained one young one, yellow about the gape, and covered with a whitish down. It was a shallow nest made of the thin twigs of firewood, and lined with hair. The hen generally flew to it from the edge of the opposite wall. As I afterwards found other nests, I was able to make further observations. I think the eggs must be deposited in March, as in most instances the young had been hatched off. Judging from the one at Berryan, which had flown when I returned to that place on the last day of the month, the young remain in the nest at least twenty-one days. On the 23rd of April I saw a nestling full grown and able to feed *" The tobacco smoked by the fellaheen of Egypt, which they call Siecdy, is green. 48 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. itself, which must have been hatched about the ist. The eggs are rather Hke Sparrows' eggs, but rounder. I only got three. Dr. Tristram did not get any, and there are none in the Museum at Algiers. The nest is generally, but not always, placed in a hole, and is composed of twigs or little sticks, and lined with hair, with sometimes the addition of wool or a bit of cotton. On one occasion two were found together, which probably belonged to the same bird, as one of them was unfinished. The young are less noisy than Sparrows : the female brings them food about every ten minutes ; and they never chirp except when they see her. I never could detect anything in her beak, or see on what she fed them, although I watched the operation often ; so I do not doubt that .she reproduces what she has eaten for the benefit of her callow offspring. Until the young leave the nest the male takes no share in feeding them. The female bears away the faeces. The males sing much the loudest, indeed the females never do more than twitter ; but the cock pours forth a lively strain during the season of incubation. They are as tame as Robins. Frequently one would hop upon our carpet, to search for fragments of couscous, scrutinizing us within a few feet with his dark brown trustful eye. They are iiearly omnivorous. I caught one in a trap baited with grain, and saw another nibbling green carrot leaf; and once the female at Berryan made her appearance with a large fly, which was not swallowed without a great effort and after much mastication. They drank out of our goatskin, fluttering and clinging to the wall for the moisture which had oozed through. For a few seconds before settling down for the night I used to see them "hovering" perpendicularly, with quivering wings and tail brought forward. Half circles of accumulated droppings under the rafters showed where they roosted." Near this town I saw examples of the Woodchat, and White-headed Rock Chat ( Saxicola kncoccpJiala), now united with Saxicola Iciicopygia ; while the Egyptian Turtledove (Turtiir cgyptiacus, Tern.) was so common, that I had only to take my stand in a garden and load and fire until as many had been killed as I required. Directly one falls the THE ALGERIAN SAHARA, 49 Arabs rush up to it to cut its throat before it dies, and I soon found out that they would never cook any which did not die by the knife. Of course they ruin everything for stuffing. A splendid Golden Eagle, which Dr. Tristram shot, was served in this way. The natives do not shoot the Doves, simply because they do not think them worth powder, which the French traders are not allowed to sell them under any pretence. They come among the houses and peck and walk about the tents exactly like tame pigeons. They were not then paired. Neither were the lovely Bee-eaters ( Merops apiastcr), many of which I saw irradia- ting the landscape by their beautiful colours. In their buo}'ant and graceful flight, Bee-eaters are not unlike Martins. Few birds surpass them in beauty as they glide nearly motionless through the air (except when a momen- tary rapid beating of the wings is necessary to gather impetus). Like a meteor they glitter in the sunlight for a moment and are gone. Berryan is a town of some 400 houses, surrounded by a mud-brick wall with a good many small towers. They are pierced for musketry, and have been used on various occasions for defence against the Chamba. The wall is surmounted by a fence of thorns, which serves as a favourite perch for the Pallid Shrike (Laniiis lahtora, Sykes ; L. pallens, Cass. ; L. dealbatus, De Filippi). Messrs. Sharpe and Dresser say they have never seen nestlings of this species. I got one on the 25th of April just able to fly. All the upper surface, which is grey in the adult, is ashy brown, faintly barred, the lore and ear-covets are very faint, as well as the other parts which are black in an adult, but the breast and underparts are the same, the beak in my skin is yellow. The loftiest building in the town is the Mosque ; its tower is in the shape of an obelisk ; but what interested me most was the wells. In my paper read on my return to the E 50 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Norwich Naturalists' Society, I endeavoured to describe the method of drawing water; but Canon Tristram's description is so much better, that I will quote it. " But the machine for drawing water from the well is both original and ingenious. There is a double pulley and a large leathern bucket slung by pulleys across the beam. The water- drawer holds two ropes, one of which draws up the bucket, which has a leathern funnel at the end of it, to which the second rope running on the other pulley is attached. This second rope, when the bucket reaches the top, turns the tube into the cistern,-- on the same principle which we see adopted in some English mines." (1. c. 134.) The drawer is generally assisted by a camel, or sometimes a brace of mules pull the cord. There is always an inclined pathway for them to run down, which materially lessens the labour. There is no garden without its well, and some of them are very deep. The wheel reaches to at least ten feet above the ground. Little trenches convey the water all about the garden, as the sand would soon soak it up ; these trenches, says Canon Tristram, are " beautifully formed of hard lime, and branching in all directions from the well, so that the precious fluid could be conveyed without the slightest waste through the grounds." He considers the cultivation in these gardens " far superior to that of Laghouat," but the southern oasis is capable of greater things. The water is limpid and tasteless. All day long the Mzab haul it up. " The Mzab work always " has become a saying. Men, women, and children toil in the gardens, even in the noon- tide hours when no European could venture out of doors. There are two cemeteries, one with a row of common earthenware urns on each grave, and the other without. Canon Tristram gives a woodcut of the urns in his work. A Marabout, or Sheik's tomb, was distinguished by some * Generally a stone tank, sometimes two. THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 5 1 flags, but not by any Ostrich eggs as some of those at Gardaia were. On the 14th news came that the Touareg — a lawless tribe of robbers — were assembling in force on the Waregla route ; and the following day a letter was brought to me (in Arabic) with tidings of a great camel "razzia" at Zergoun, (which though not in our road, lay to the north of us,) in which 2,000 camels had been carried off, and it was said six men killed, but I did not place much reliance on this latter statement. The " Spahis," Arab soldiers in French pay, were in hot pursuit, but with little chance of coming up with the fugitives. Trusting that they would not come on our Avay, we on the 16th left Berryan and travelled to Gardaia, which is the chief city of the Mzab confederation. Our road lay through a dreary tract of country — stony, brown, and mountainous — save at rare intervals, where the dull prospect was suddenly broken by a patch of green, formed by the rain collecting in a hollow ; but these fresh spots were few and far between. In this ride Canon Tristram got Dupont's Lark, a species I never met with. And now by narrow defiles our cavalcade drew near the capital. I could not help thinking, as often as I reined in my mule, what awful havoc the long guns of the Arabs would make with an invading army in such a place ; and no doubt for them many a winding pass teems with historic interest. That the city has figured in more than one sanguinary conflict the bullet marks on the walls testify. But who will forget the first view of Gardaia .-• Standing upon a gentle eminence, crowned by the never-failing Mosque — her flat-roofed houses rising tier over tier above the evergreen Palm trees, the ancient Arab city bursts upon your view. It is too hot to go out in the middle of the day, her gardens therefore should be visited in the cool of the morning, or in the red blush of sunset. Then the woods 52 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. resound with joyous carols, while the sparkling Bee-eater, the painted Roller, and the gilded Oriole flicker in the foliage — a veritable naturalist's paradise! Nothing can exceed the fertility of the oasis. Vines, sur- passing any which I ever saw in size and luxuriance, were bent with many an unripe cluster, trained from Palm-stem to Palm-stem, and all the Figs, and Pomegranates, and Apricot trees were loaded with green fruit, while high over- head there towered six-and-fifty thousand Date Palms. I saw the last red rays of the setting sun as they shed a golden pathway through the trellissed stems, grander than the grandest palace. I had now come, as I calculated, about 430 miles from the sea, in a nearly direct line due south from Algiers — only one or two Englishmen have to my knowledge ever penetrated further. An inquisitive mob gathered round us in the market place — brawny men and /ie7ina-sta.med children pressed for- ward, or mounted on the bench of justice with cries of surprise. Doubtless many of the latter had never seen a white face before. The Guest house was in the market place ; it had two doors, and three apertures which did duty for windows. As it was three-storied I used the bottom part for the mules, received guests on the second floor, and kept the top story for skinning and writing. Canon Tristram gives a picture of it (1. c). How strange to be quartered in the same room of the same house where he and Mr. Peed were, fourteen years before ! While we awaited the arrival of a negro with a ponderous iron key, I could not help noticing how many there were in the crowd who were blind. Alas! ophthalmia is only too prevalent among them. When we had washed and taken coffee, which is an indispensable ceremony among the Arabs, the chief led the way to the Jews' quarter. We entered the house of a wealthy Hebrew. The Rabbi, as I TPIE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 53 suppose him to have been, was reading in the doorway. He rose on the entry of Simhamed Betoumi (that I beHeve to have been the name of my conductor,) with many genu- flections. As he seemed anxious to show me everything, we walked all over his house without any ceremony. There were texts upon the walls, and printed books which appeared to be portions of the Old Testament. The man was a silversmith. Before leaving I was invited to partake of the thin Jews' bread, and some absinthe, the most dangerous of all spirituous liquors. I found that the Mzab sheiks knew the name of London, and some very curious questions were asked me through the interpreter about its extent ; also about the Queen and our navy — whether we had more men-of-war than the French, etc. .'' I catechising them in return about their manners and customs. They evidently supposed that I had come to inspect the products of the country with a view to commerce. I had often asked my attendant to get me an opportunity of seeing the Mosque, but knowing the prejudices of the Arabs, and that he was himself a Mahommedan, it was quite unlooked for when the chiei's sanction came one morning, and a Christian and a stranger I passed up the slippery ascending passage, by which the faithful draw near the sanctuary at Gardaia ; but I was not to be permitted to enter. From the top of the roof only might the Christian dog look down upon the worshippers. In an inner open court, some forty feet square, about a dozen devotees are chanting, in a low monotonous tone, the prayers which Mahomet commanded. No verses from the Koran, no gilded lamps, no mural decorations, only the same reiterated wailing chant. But my attendant hints that we are there by stealth, so after briefly noticing that they keep the Jiaik on, (for their heads are shaven) I slip away from the precincts and return to the Guest house, glad to have 54 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. seen the Moslem devotees, and to have had a glance into the interior of their Mosque. There are two towers, one perfect, the other leaning ; the court alluded to is not directly beneath either of them. We stayed until Friday for the weekly market, which is one of the most important in southern Algeria, being far larger than that at Berry an. It was formerly held outside the walls, no doubt that tribes from a distance might trade without seeing the internal arrangements of the city, but now it is in the market place near the south gate. The buyers sit, and the sellers walk about among them, calling over the wares, which consist of woollen stuffs, burnouses, butter, desert potatoes, and dates of all sorts, as well as live stock — camels, goats, and sheep — which are brought up by merchants to be conveyed into the Tell. Jews vend silver bracelets, and cracked date stones are sold as food for camels! It is a mart for everything .brought by the cara- vans, which are constantly going and arriving. Yet it does not last above three hours. The merchants began to come about eight o'clock, mounted on Mahri or Mahai-a camels, from Waregla, and by eleven it was all over. We were now nearly into May, and though my health had been wonderfully preserved hitherto, I was anxious, with the summer coming on, to get back to the coast. If before I feared the rain and the cold nights, I now dreaded tenfold more the unendurable mid-day sun. Accordingly on the 22nd we moved to Mellika, determined to make our visits to the other towns as short as possible. The next day, strolling out with my gun, I collected specimens of the Pied Wheatear (Saxicola Icnconicla, Pall), a male in moult, with the under tail-coverts as nearly white as possible, and a good deal of grey on the crown, (the gizzard contained a thick white grub about three quarters of an inch long), Rock Pigeon, (generally observed in pairs on the rocks, and not in the palms where the Doves were,) Egyptian THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 55 Turtledove, Common English Turtledove, Pied Flycatcher, Wood Wren, Willow Wren, House Bunting, and Rock Chat ( Saxicola Iciicopyga). These Rock Chats are quite the handsomest birds in the oases. They are very common about the zveds, (i.e. dry rocky water-courses,) and on the wells, where I suspect they breed, as I saw some fly down them. I saw a boy with one which he had doubtless caught on its nest, tied to a long string which was passed through its nostrils ! On the 25tli I shot a Roller ( Corracias garrula, Lin.). Its stomach contained four of the largest beetles. As might be expected, so rich an oasis affords food and shelter for many beautiful birds unknown in other lands ; and one, which from its gay colours has attracted the notice of all travellers, is the Roller. Accordingly M. M. Peysonnel and Des Fontaines, in their " Voyages dans les regences de Tunis et D' Alger," say : — " On voit aussi le long des rivieres un bel oiseau qu'on nomme chcr agra. * * * - C'est un espece de Geai : il se nourrit de sauterelles. Get oiseau est de passage ; il parait en Barbaric vers le mois de Mai, et y sejourne jusqu'en automne. II y niche dans des trous le long des rivieres ; son cri est : g>-a, gra, This work was published in 1838, five years after Des Fontaines' death. What few birds Des Fontaines collected are in the Paris Museum. His life was so much taken up with the study of flowers, that he seems to have only had time for one ornithological " brochure," entitled " Memoire sur quelques especes nouvelles d'oiseaux des cotes de Bar- baric." (Mem. de lAcad. des Sc. (1787), p. 496.) It contains figures and descriptions of seven species — Otis Hobara (Houbara 'uiidulata), Tiirdus fuhiis ( Crater opus fiilvns) Turdus bar bat HS ( Pycnotiotus barbatus), Tctrao syhaticiis (Tur)iix syhatica), Tetrao fasciatus (Ptcrocks arciiarius), Falco cQjr ulcus ( Elanus carulcus), Upupa alaudipes (CcrtJii- lauda dcsertorujn). For a sight of it I am indebted to 56 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Professor Newton. The name alaudipcs for the Bifasciated or curve-billed Lark, takes precedence I presume of C. dcsertorum, Stanley, being twenty-four years older ; and in that case five of Des Fontaines' specific names would be adopted. Often in my rambles I intruded on the haunts of the cunning Cratcropus fulvns, a bird first made known to science by Des Fontaines. It is exactly the colour of sand, like so many other birds in these arid regions.* The venerable Kadi Bouhanimed, who was chief of Mellika in Dr. Tristram's time, is doubtless gathered to his fathers ; the present man is Salki Benadulla. Barbaaisa Bembamen is Kadi of Bou-Noura, and Adown of Benisguen. All these towns are in the same oasis, and the dry course of the Wed N'ca winds between them. Bou-Noura is a heap of ruins ; half the town has been dismantled, and the crumbling, unroofed, long-deserted houses have grown brown like the rocks which surround them. El Ateuf and Benisguen are in better preservation, and contain some shops or magazines, the principal wares, says Canon Tristram, " being leather, dyed cloths, and all sorts of materials for tanning and dye- ing." Benisguen has long been the rival of Gardaia, and that its inhabitants still aspire to the chieftainship of the oasis was proved by a new wall which we found them con- structing, and which affords an instance of the intestine rivalry which has rendered every stand against the French abortive. The day is far distant when the burnous will vanquish the tricolor flag. We did not start upon our return journey until the last day of the month. Then bidding a hearty farewell to the Sheiks, and giving them at their request a certificate of our * I should think the species observed by Mr. W. T. H. Chambers in Tripoli (Ibis, 1867, pp. loi and 104) is more likely to have been this species than C acacice. THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 5/ thorough .satisfaction with our entertainment, to be followed by a more tangible present of silk burnouses when we got to Laghouat, we trod once more the inhospitable desert. One of them was good enough to say he would accompany me, and I further availed myself of the convoy of two S/'a/iis, who had been sent with letters from Laghouat. The first day's journey was performed in a sharp sirocco wind, and the only rare bird seen was a Houbara Bustard. I noticed however a Lizard, about two feet long, running over the stones in the barest part of the sterile chcbka. I had one brought to me at Laghouat which was more than three feet long. Berard, in his " Indicateur," says, " On trouve le Pleitiondon Aldrovandi ou Scinque C}'prien, gracieux lezard a bee de poisson qui plonge dans le sables comme un poisson dans I'eau." Perhaps this was the species I saw. The next morning I shot Aninioniancs rcgtiljis, a pretty little sand-coloured Lark, described in 1857 by Prince Bonaparte (Canon Tristram terms it "a very scarce bird," and I believe justly,) and Saxicola evytJircca (Ehr), ^. Jialo- pJdla (Trist.), erroneously given in my list in the " Ibis " as S. JiouiocJiroa. When the Chebka Mzab w^as passed, I had further oppor- tunity of examining the Dayats. It was now the period of migration (May 2nd), and where there was water they were teeming with life. It was as if all the spring migrants of Southern Europe had been compressed into fifty acres. Beneath every jujube tree — at every thicket — were massed and congregated all manner of rare birds : — Pied Flycatchers, Hoopoes, Doves, Rollers, Woodchats — Warblers without end, seeking shelter from the burning midday sun. The Neophron (Neophron pcrcnoptcnis ) and the hoarse croaking Raven perched upon the taller Terebinths. Different sorts of Sandpipers flew before us, mingling with noisy Shrikes, while dozing Little Owls, awakened by our approach, dashed out from the deep foliage and hid themselves again. The 58 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. shores of France and Albion's white cHffs are the migrants' goal. Like a great tidal wave they press on, dropping I suspect a few laggards here and there, who, tempted by the water and rich foliage, remain and rear their progeny in these glorious Dayats. This is the country to which the Arabs apply the term " Sahara^ I know it is the Great Desert which is so marked in maps, but this is the true " Sahara " — the habit- able country which ends where all regular supply of water fails. Of course I worked hard with note-book and scalpel. Inter alia I procured examples of the Orphean and Subal- pine Warblers, Abyssinian Crested Lark, and Short-toed Lark. Canon Tristram and Mr. Salvin did not meet with the Subalpine Warbler, but M. Taczanouski seems to have encountered it freely in Constantino. Loche in his catalogue (p. 69) gives as its habitat — " Le cercle de Milianeh ; " but it appears not to be included in Germain's " Birds of Miliana," a catalogue comprising 162 species. It is an elegant little species. A cock and hen, shot at Bou-Noura on the 25th of April, were in perfect plumage. Mr. Dresser unites Galerida Abyssinica (Bp.) the Abyssin- ian Crested Lark, with G. c r is tata (Birds of Europe, Part XX.), but I am sure that my bird is not the same as the common Crested Larks I shot in the " Tell." I noticed the difference directly I shot it ; it is a much lighter bird, with a longer beak. Possibly it may be G. arenicola (Trist), but it signi- fies little, as Mr. Dresser with a sweeping hand has united them both with G. cristata. Matters are not helped by a discrepancy between Canon Tristram's account of G. arenicola and M. Taczanouski's. The former says, " This bird may be at once distinguished from its congeners by its bill, which is extremely elongated" (Ibis, 1859, p. 426); but the latter remarks — " Like the preceding species (G. cristata), this one is short-beaked" (Zoologist, 2582). My Short-toed Lark, Calcndrella bracJiydactyla (LeisL), THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 59 C. Jicruioncjisis (Trist.), has the crown of the head slightly rufous. In the "Birds of Europe," Part XXII., it is stated that " M. Taczanouski observed it in the winter in Algeria ; " but in his list, translated in the Zoologist, that naturalist says, '' Not seen during the zvhole winter. In the beginning of March we caught sight of a small flock for the first time." (ZooL, 2581). With thankful hearts we rode into Laghouat on Thursday morning. It was nearly a month since I had seen an European, and I was not sorry to get back to the comforts of a bedroom at the hotel. On all hands I heard of the Camel "razzia" at Zergoun. I might almost say it had created some uneasinesss. I w'as very glad to take the first "courrier," and return to Algiers as quickly as possible. I did not attempt to shoot any more, but at Ain-El-Ibel I was given a Red-necked Goatsucker (Capriniulgus ruficol- lis) in fine plumage. The next day being Sunday, I slept at Guelt-El-Stel, and saw three more of the same species, apparently attracted by the young locusts with which the ground was perfectly black in places. It is not included by either Tristram, Salvin, or Taczanouski. Near Medea I got the finest Golden Oriole (Oriolus galbula) I ever saw. The coach stopped to bait at a roadside public-house, the land- lord of which had shot it on a fruit tree in his garden. Its stomach contained a mass of hair, apparently that of hairy caterpillars. Nothing else worth mentioning occurred until I reached Algiers. There I saw two more new birds, the Yellow-legged Herring Gull (Lams lencopJuvns), and the Purple Heron ( Ardea purpurea), the former in the harbour, the latter in a barber's shop apparently just set up. In crossing to Mar- seilles I observed Stormy Petrels ( TJialassidroma pelagica) at the Balearic Isles, and Cinereous Shearwaters (Puffinus cinereus), both of which may be included in the Algerian avifauna. Indeed in May, 1856, Dr. Tristram shot eight 60 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Cinereous Shearwaters in the bay in three days. One of these — the specimen figured by Dr. Bree in his " Birds of Europe " — through his kindness now enriches my collection. In addition to these I saw the Cream-coloured Courser (Cursorius galliais), as I firmly believe, running and flying before the heads of our mules in the Tibrem country ; Manx Shearwaters (as already mentioned) when I went by sea from Oran to Algiers ; and Kites so often in the course of my wanderings, that I think I may at least include Milvus ictinns and ]\T. inigrans. Skins of the Greater Spotted Cuckoo (ChchIhs glandarius) , and Cisalpine Sparrow (Passer cisalpinus) I bought in Algiers before I went into the interior, which had been killed in the vicinity. Jays (Gar- rulus ccrvicalis, Bp.*^ I often saw in cages, though never wild, and once a dainty Stilt (Hivia?itopus candidiis) shut up in a rabbit-hutch at Laghouat, and fed by Zouave soldiers on bread, meat, fish, insects, and rice. At the same place two Lanner Falcons (Falco hviariiis), taken young from the nest, were offered to me. I bought one, and on my return to England deposited it in the Zoological Gardens, but it only lived three years, probably owing to the pernicious habit of feeding it on butcher's meat, instead of rats and rabbits. Including all the above (except the Stormy Petrel), and deducting Dromolcva Icucocephala as not a good species, the total number of birds identified by me in four months was 152. I refrain from including the Lammergayer, though often in the Atlas I saw large birds of prey which I should think could scarcely have been anything else, neither do I * Mr. Dresser states in his "Birds of Europe" that I saw the Jay at Tibrem and Medea, but there he shghtly misquotes me. It was the Moorish Magpie, not the Jay, which I saw at those places. The eye in G. cei'vicalis is exactly the bluish colour of the British Jay's, with an inner ring of brown. THE ALGERIAN SAHARA. 6l reckon the Garganey Teal ; albeit, I flushed a brace of Ducks on April 4th, which looked uncommonly like them. ADDENDUM. In the Ornithological Journal — the " Ibis " — edited by Salvin, and published by Van Voorst, I have given at pages 68, 2S9 of the 1st vol. of the 3rd series, an extended account of all the species I positively identified. The following slight rectifications require to be made. No. 31. Cincliis aqiiaticus should be Cinclus albicollis (Vieill). No. 36. Droinohva Iciicopygia is to be united with No. IJ, D. leucocephala. No. 43. Saxicola JiomocJivoa should be vS". erytJircea (Ehr.) ■5". Jialophila (Tristram). The only specimen obtained was a female at Berryan, on the 30th of April, 1870. No. 59. Sylvia hortensis. "Only shot one," add "in the Gardaia oasis, 26th of April." No. 6^. Sylvia coiispicillata. " Tibrem ; " add " and Laghouat." No. 72. Anthits arhorcus. " Common in Summer," should be " Common in Spring." No. 80. Calandrclla brachydactyla. " Once seen at Laghouat," should be "one shot at Laghouat, May 4th, 1870." No. Z6. Galcrida abyssitiica. The only one obtained was a female between Tibrem and Laghouat, May 3rd. No. '^J. Two lines from the bottom. For " Galcrida abyssinica is found on the hills," read " Galcrida cristatal' No. 95. Passer salicicola. For "ten near Blida," read " three near Blida." No. 104. Pica mauritanica. This Magpie was seen at Tibrem and Medea. 62 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. No. 1 06. Piciis Diinor. Only met with in the wood of Oued El Alleg (in the Tell), February 14th, 1870. Figured in Part XI. of Sharpe and Dresser's "Birds of Europe." No. 123. (EdkncjHus crepitans. "A fine specimen in the Algiers market about the end of February," should be "on the 5th of February." No. 135. Crex pratcusis. "I found one about the end of February," should be "on the 3rd of February." No. 138. Anas clypcata. For the "Market at Algiers," read " The markets at Algiers and Oran." " No. 140. Anas acuta. One in the market at Algiers about the 7th of February. Note. — The white variety of the Corn Bunting, so common in England, is occasionally met with in Algeria. Canon Tristram obtained one, April 21st, 1856; and Germain observes that pied specimens are frequently seen (1. c). NOTES DURING THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. Feeling very strongly for the French peasantry, who had lost their all during the ravages of the Franco-German war, I joined a body of delegates for their succour ; and I think that some memoranda from a journal kept during that memorable time will be found interesting. Of course I had other things to attend to than Natural History, but I contrived to put together a few ornithological notes. Our head quarters were at Metz. December 2)id, 1 870. Starting from Luxembourg, at length we reached the French frontier. The people at the village stations said they had had 300 Prussians billeted on them. Some were kind to the women and children, some were not. They had had sufficient to eat, and the only thing they complained of was having their tools taken away. Presently we passed some more small villages, whose inmates had deserted them, and then Thionville came in sight. No one who has not witnessed its effect can realize what war is. Some of us were looking forward with a strange curiosity, for in Thionville we had learnt that we should see a dire sample of the dreadful scourge. Before its calamity fell upon it, the town must have stood in a wood. Desolate enough it looked now ; all its trees felled. Everything — sheds, shrubs, and walls — levelled for a cannon-shot all 64 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. round. But it was worse inside. There its split walls, rent roofs, and ruined houses, presented a spectacle never to be forgotten while memory last. Upwards of twenty-five houses were totally destroyed, and one hundred others ren- dered uninhabitable. All this was the work of the sugar- loaf shells,* one of which had pierced the face of the old church clock, stopping its hands at twenty minutes after one. The bombardment had begun on the 20th of Novem- ber at six o'clock in the morning, and continued, with one short interval of rest, for two days. The victors marched in on the 26th, and immediately hastened to extinguish the flames, but two houses were smoking still when we arrived. The ability displayed in managing the assault was very great. Before beginning, the Germans divided their artillery into three batteries, so placed as to be about equidistant. From each of these was hurled, no round shot, but the much more effective shell — oblong and conical — which bursting into fragments jeoparded alike life and property, while at the same time the petroleum inside ignited, quickly kindling all that it might happen to come in contact with. No sooner was a house perceived to be in flames than the guns were compressed into a focus on it, and all the efforts of the artillerymen were directed to spreading the conflagration. This was the mode of warfare, and the gutted town bore awful testimony to its success. We did not see a French soldier; they had been all sent away into Germany. They were chiefly the " Garde Mobile." Very few of them were killed or wounded. Only the poor inhabitants were made to suffer, for the enemy did not fire at the ramparts. This explains why the town did not surrender sooner. In spite of the confusion we got a capital dinner, but the people were atraid to light a fire, dreading lest there might be an unexploded bomb in the chimney. However, I believe it ** 20,000 were thrown into this devoted town» THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 6$ was a needless alarm, for the Prussian shells were much better than the French ones, which very often did not go off when they were meant to. The landlady was most polite and obliging, though she had two officers billeted upon her, and the upper part of her " Hotel de Luxem- bourg" was in ruins. There was only one chamber intact, so some of us had perforce a draughty night of it. December yd. Utter disorder prevailed at the railway station. German guards, porters, drivers, stokers, had been substituted for French ones, and the people could not or would not make themselves understood. Even the ticket- clerk did not know French money when he got it, or a bond fide traveller when he saw one ! Arrived at Metz. Three prisoners, recaptured runaways, were chilling themselves and their guard on the platform until they could be taken off prisoners into Germany. Wretched-looking objects ! Plow different from the smart uniforms in the " Grand Place," where were being drilled a moiety of the five and thirty thousand Prussians who now garrisoned Metz, as was currently reported. The flower of France went down before these broad-shouldered fellows. December ^tJi. Walked to the village of Woippy ; noticed Crested Larks in small flocks upon the snow. Just before we got to the village, we met the Cure, who sent for the " Maire," who sent for the Sergeant of the Police, who con- ducted us to the farm of St. Agathe. The Prussians had taken it and held it, and the " chassepot " had left its mark on the walls in many places. I picked up in the grass several bullets shaped liked a miniature shell, barring the ribs. He then took us to Chateau Ladonchamps, which was held by both parties and twice bombarded. It is a square castellated building in a wood, surrounded by a moat. We found outhouses, extensive stabling, a chapel, etc., and al- together it must once have been — before its investment — as nice a residence as any country gentleman could wish to F 66 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. live in ; but chance, or its castellated character, had cost it dear. The lead was wrenched off the chapel roof; the beautiful stained-glass window was broken ; the altar was a shapeless wreck. Even an antique folio missal had not escaped the rancour of an incensed soldiery, and I picked up and brought home as relics some of its leaves which were strewn on the floor. One shell, after boring through two roofs and a granary, had buried itself deep in the founda- tion. Another had smashed right into a costly mirror, which had probably been too large to take away. Every- thing had gone to rack and ruin. Plaster had crumbled, lead was curled, slates displaced, wood shivered into pieces. But perhaps the most singular sight was the trees on the road pitted with bullet marks, as if the " franc-tireurs " had sheltered behind them, and here and there a large bough riven by some fragment of shell. A little to the right were two mounds surmounted by a simple cross, but thousands of brave men were placed beneath the sod with no sign to mark their graves. We heard some revolting stories of bodies which were not buried deep enough, but I think my readers will spare me the recital. The regulation depth was only two feet. The sergeant gave me a few brief par- ticulars of the fight. It was commenced, he said, on the 7th of October, by the " franc-tireurs," at half-past three in morning. The constant firing lit up the horizon, while the rattle of the musketry so terrified the Hares and Partridges, that they allowed the soldiers to catch them with their hands. Bazaine's troops made several sorties, and at first drove the Prussians back ; but running short of ammunition were repulsed in their turn, and defeated with the loss of a general. The nearest Prussian post to Metz was the " Bois de Woippy," near Saulny. The French were finally worsted, but not until they had left 4,000 of their foes dead on the field. 6th. As I was passing through the streets, I saw some THE FRANCO -GERMAN WAR. 6/ waggons at the head of Rue St. Marcel, full of rusty, dirt- begrimed French rifles. I suppose they were what Bazaine's warriors had thrown into the Seille, and had been fished up and just come in. 8th. A horse came to our depot which had had its mane and tail eaten ofT by another horse during the siege ; but this does not give an idea of what they were reduced to. One of the most shocking sights I ever saw, was one poor skeleton brought up into the "Place" which had been found in a cellar. It was simply sickening ; but it excited no pity in the lookers-on, for what time have men who are engaged in butchering one another to think of the sufferings of dumb animals ? The poor wretch had been shut up many days without food and forgotten by its inhuman master. The trees inside the fortifications of Metz were in many places completely barked by the famished horses ; while outside whole groves of them were felled whenever they could inter- fere with a cannon's range. Round the Redte. du Pate the desolation was something extraordinary. Fortunately the face of the country, far and wide, was wrapped in a mantle of snow. This in a great measure concealed what had happened, hiding up for the time being the dreary spectacle. 9th. Saw six of the captured mitrailleuses and their carriages. The guns are brass, with centrepieces of steel pierced for twenty-five bullets. They were not as efi'ective as was expected. I believe the principal fault found with them was that they drop their shot. Hitherto I have said nothing about ornithology, but I had been wishing to see the Metz specimen of the Great Auk, and was very glad when I found time to get to the Museum. It proved to be not in good condition, and but indifferently stufied, standing on its toes, with loose leg wires and long neck (which appeared to have been cut open) ; its attenuated frame was suffering much from mould 68 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. on the back and ear. Its head was chafed by the shelf above, and no care seemed to be taken of it whatever. There were eight white ribs on the upper mandible, and eleven on the lower. Perhaps the principal birds of local interest are a White's Thrush — the first killed in Europe, two young Sea Eagles, and a Pelican {Pelecanus onocrotabis), which was shot at Remilly in 1835. On the 13th I was deputed to accompany a lady who was leaving our party to return to Carlsruhe. We had hardly started and got clear of Metz station when we ran into a train of trucks, and broke the buffer of a waggon. We proceeded again, but we had not gone very far before we were once more brought to a standstill by an accident to a train just in front of us. This announcement filled some of the passengers with consternation, but after sitting still about an hour we were all ordered out. It was now quite dark. There had been a rapid thaw, and nobody relished a walk of two hundred yards in the slush and melting snow into the heart of a deep wood, where the cutting took us, to a place where sixty men, with flaring laths dipped in pitch, were working against time to repair the loosened line. It was a wild sight. Three of the carriages had fallen over the embankment, but whether many people had been wounded I could not hear. My only wonder is that the trains ran at all, considering how disorganised everything was. I have no doubt it was the passage of the heavy artillery which had displaced the metals. There is rather a nice Museum at Carlsruhe. I remarked a curious variety of our common Nuthatch, in which the throat and crown of the head were pure black, and another specimen pure white. I never heard of but two other vv^hite Nuthatches ; the first killed in August, 1834, in Suffolk (Mag. of Nat. Hist, VIII., p. 112); the second at Lyng in Norfolk, in 1846, presented to me by Mrs. Clarke. I also remarked a Great Titmouse with THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 69 crossed mandibles, which immediately reminded me of one picked up in a street at Faversham, and figured as a fron- tispiece by Mr. Lewin to the first volume of his " British Birds;" and I noticed a young Brent Goose with a very dark breast. The very great differences in the colour of the underparts of the Brent will be fully entered into in the third volume of the " Birds of Norfolk." The birds were very fairly stuffed, and the European series good. Many speci- mens were varieties, the most remarkable deviations being an extraordinary Ikshs of a Blackbird, a very singular Bull- finch, and the Nuthatches already mentioned. The Zoological Gardens possess a good many interesting birds for so small a place ; but I will only mention one of them, which was a white Magpie with pink eyes. Albinism, not leucotism. Flitting about in the bushes were Marsh Tits, Tree Sparrows, and Yellow Hammers. The Tree Sparrow is certainly a very common bird on the continent of Europe. In Lorraine I consider it was the most numer- ous of all small birds, which assuredly could not be said of it in any county in Great Britain. It is an inhabitant of the country. I only once saw one in a village. The " iron road " makes a considerable detour before entering Strasbourg. The point where the train enters the walls appeared to have been made a special mark, if one might judge from the numerous dints with which the bricks were pitted. The drawbridge was also burnt, and some brass guns on the ramparts had met with very severe usage ; but the oddest sight was a long train of empty trucks which had been drawn up three deep, and which had come in for their full share of the knocking about. One or two holes had been made in the Museum, but nothing of any consequence was lost. It is in the Rue de I'Academie. The birds are in first-rate preservation with the exception of the Great Auk, which is unhappily a wretched specimen. Part of its neck is bare, its lower fyO RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. mandible is without a sheath, and its breast is spotted with grease. The tongue appears to be still in the mouth. In a cursory glance through, I noticed an 2.^\AX.HaliaetHs pelagicus ; and a Red-breasted Goose, not the specimen recorded by Vieillot as killed near Strasburgh, of which Kroener makes no mention ("Appergu des oiseaux de I'Alsace et des Vosges ") ; also a separate collection of Alsace birds, contain- ing many rarities of local interest, e.g., four adult (grey- visaged) Honey Buzzards, and an example of the white variety, which is rarer than the white or whitish Common Buzzard, a Hawk Owl, killed in 1842 in the forest of Brumath, and a Tengmalm's Owl. Of this last the editor of the fourth edition of "Yarrell" says, "occasionally occurs on the Vosges." He might have gone further, since, accord- ing to M. Kroener (1. c, p. 5), it is sedentary (though very rare) nesting " dans les hauts vallons de la vallee de Munster," I brought away two relics from the house of the taxider- ;mist. Perhaps some will remember an account of the havoc which the bursting shells played among his insects and stuffed birds. One was a piece of a Middle spotted Wood- 'pecker, which had originally been stuffed, but having had the misfortune to be hit again, was instantly torn in pieces. The other was a Water Ouzel, which had had a similar hard fate of being shot twice over. A venerable pile is the ancient Minster of Strasburg, and very sorry I was to see that on one side its long buttressed nave had suffered a good deal. Though not a mark itself for the Prussian artillerymen, except when used as a look- out, it would appear that some of the houses in its immediate vicinity were selected to suffer. Of one called the Maison Ohlmann, which is but divided from the Cathedral by the breadth of the street, only the bare walls remained. The shoemaker who tenanted it may well have envied his neigh- bours, for the houses on either side of it were untouched. THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 7 1 It seems that the major part of the bomb-shells which were pitched into this unlucky town were not filled with petroleum as at Thionville, but with bullets, which however well suited to a field of battle, are not intended for streets and houses where the object is not the taking of life, but the destruction of property. It was these which had chipped the fretwork of Strasburgh Cathedral and her stately sculptures, and dotted so many holes in the grand old stained-glass windows of the fourteenth century. Although there was every likeli- hood of the war not being finished for some time, and in the opinion of many, Strasburgh stood a fair chance of being besieged again, the sanguine townspeople were busily mending their cracked roofs and broken houses. The effect of putting bright new tiles into old roofs was very absurd, for it made the town look as if an epidemic of red spots had broken out. 2 1 St. Shortly after my return, a friend and I ascended the heights of St. Quentin. On this lofty hill, at a short distance from Metz, has been built an almost impregnable fort, for it was obvious that if this hill was once taken, and cannon placed upon it, Metz would be at the mercy of the invader. But the Prussians had no thought of trying to take it. They knew an easier way of getting into the town ; and so far as I could see not a shot had been fired at its walls, though I believe it took part in the affair of St. Privat. It is also stated on the 9th of September to have shelled St. Blain and Ars, and perhaps some of the shells we saw in Chateau Ladonchamps came from hence. In every direction were strewn about, caps, cartridge-cases, straps, cleaning cases, fusees, sand bags, and all those small muni- tions of war which a retreating soldiery leave behind them. The trees were gnawn, and the ground trodden wherever horses had been picketed. Bridles were hanging in some of the boughs ; and here and there a good steed's skeleton was given over to the Carrion Crows and Rooks, whose sable 72 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. flocks with loud caws flew overhead, or picked the bones hah' hidden by the deep snow. 22nd. An echpse of the sun from ii a.m. to i p.m. At twelve it took the form of a crescent. The disk was not perfect at three. 23rd. Drove to Gravelotte, but it would be impossible to see the whole field of battle in one day. In fact it was a three days' engagement, reaching from Ars to St. Privat. In every direction I could perceive graves ; some with crosses, some without. On one I saw four helmets. Others were the graves of horses and cattle. The latter had died by hundreds ; the former were shot by thousands. The recent heavy rains had washed away the mould, and I had to give a wide berth to all carcases partially exposed. It is a marvel they did not breed a pestilence, The deep ruts of wheels could be seen in those heavy soils in every direction where the field artillery had been dragged by the straining horses ; and a piece of the army telegraph was still hanging on a tree, which the fugitives had not tarried to cut down. The peasants had gathered up the scabbards, etc., which were now lying in heaps around the village, and the con- querors had carried off the swords and guns, and everything which could be used again, even to the brass tops of the helmets which were lying on the road by hundreds ; but many small articles were still lying about, some of which I particularly remember, such as a silk handkerchief which had been used to staunch a wound, a sleeve cut off at the elbow, a nosebag, pegs of tents, and an empty mitrail- leuse cartridge. The schoolmaster who, terrified out of his life, had seen it all from the tower of the church, showed us from the brow of the hill the wood which sheltered the Prussian cavalry, and the place where the mitrailleuses had stood which worked such fearful execution among them. 24th. Visited Nouilly, Noiseville, St. Barbe, and Vremy. It was a strange sight to see the people getting ready an THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 73 altar for Christmas eve in their wreck of a church. The churchyard had apparently been attacked, for many of the tombstones were wrenched up and thrown across the gate- way to barricade it. We saw the ground all trampled and trodden, haversacks tossed about, a dead horse in an en- trenchment not buried yet, and all war's ghastly symptoms. 25th. Towards evening firing heard : supposed to be letting off of cannons which had been loaded by the French at the forts, and abandoned without being discharged. Our Christmas was one of the coldest days I ever ex- perienced. The keen frost, which had lasted with little inter- mission since our arrival, had bound everything in its icy fetters ; but this rigorous weather, while it increased the suffer- ing of many poor people, was a most valuable check to the spread of infection. Typhus, Dysentery, and Small-pox were rife. No less than five members of our small society took the last, and one, who had come out to do all she could for the sick and impoverished people, succumbed to its virulence. Of course the wild birds suffered as much as the people. Gangs of famished Rooks* swarmed on the roads, in the fields, or by the river's edge, searching for the food they could not find. Some, more lucky than the rest, had dis- covered a partially uncovered rubbish-heap. I drove them away, and picked up one of the " field-post " letter boxes used by the French regiments.f ** Some ladies in England reared a young Rook which was blown out of its nest. Instead of evincing its gratitude by quitting its bene- factors when it grew up, this tractable bird built two nests of holly leaves ; but ultnnately it joined its sable companions, showing that its natural instinct was in the end stronger than anything else. f I read a curious account of the wounded soldiers at Sedan beckon- ing for the field-postman before calling the ambulance, showing their extraordinary eagerness to communicate with their friends. Blank sheets were generally carried with each box for the men to write upon. 74 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. It is not necessary to describe all the villages we visited. It was the same sad spectacle of beggary, dirt, and disease, the same affecting complaints made by men in their earnest dialect at most of them ; but now and then, in happy con- trast, one came across some peaceful hamlet which was not in the " path of war." Jamiary 6th, 1870. No place that I saw was more thoroughly given over to the flames and despoiled than the once well-to-do Peltre. I should say about three-fourths of this large village was blackened and roofless. The rights of the story will probably never be known, but the Prussians are accredited with having set fire to it when they evacuated it. Thus the poor inhabitants were forced to look on while their homes were flaming, if indeed their ruthless masters did not make them assist in firing them. It was pitiable to hear the " chers soeurs " (nuns) tell their tale of woe. They were turned out of their convent at an hour's notice, where they had been sedulously tending the wounded of both nations, with scarce time as they said " to put a clean collar on," their habitual love of neatness asserting itself at that dreadful moment. This building was very large for a country village, with a children's school and a substantial chapel at the back. The railway station was reduced to a lieap of ashes ; so was the church. The carved images had dropped from their pedestals, and the cross of the tower had fallen. The clock likewise had dropped in, leaving one hand etill sticking on the wall, and a chaos of its wheels and works was lying on the ground. The wooden pews were burnt, the iron was bent, the lead melted, the windows fallen in, the altar rails broken. But the wasteful ruin had not stopped here. In the village all was havoc and confusion. Burning shutters had left their marks upon the houses, chimneys stood by themselves, cellars were exposed. Everything had stamped upon it in characters only too intelligible the progress of a devouring and implacable fire. THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 75 9th. Business connected with our Society took me to Phalsburg. It was three weeks and two days since this stronghold had fallen. Darkness set in ere we could climb the steep ascent, and it was night when we heard the challenge of the sentries summoning us to halt. The orders of the guards were to be very particular about admitting any persons after nightfall. After a short parley we were permitted to show our credentials, and when they had been examined and nothing treasonable found, we were marched off under military escort to the guard -house, where, after being detained for an hour like prisoners, we were per- mitted to go our way. The tight little city of Phalsburg underwent three assaults, and forty houses were destroyed irretrievably. However, it fared better than Thionville, for whole streets were untouched ; but the petroleum shells had set the church ablaze, and the stone of the tower had peeled off in great flakes. It does seem wonderful to me that these cities did not prefer surrendering at once, know- ing that they must eventually capitulate, by which they might have saved an infinity of property. After an hour spent with the authorities, we set out for the villages under the guidance of a lad. The Cure at the village of Mittlebrun appeared to be a more honourable man than some of his fraternity. He told us frankly that he did not consider his parishioners to be in want, indeed he said they were well off compared with the villages round Metz. The next place was the Protestant village of Zilling. Only about eighty inhabitants, few of whom could speak French. They said the principal trade of the place was the straw hat manufacture. Since the war broke out, trade had been depressed, and they had only been receiving two " sous " a hat, straw provided. On our way home I went to see the earthworks of one of the Prussian batteries. The guns had been placed on the brow of a slope, facing away from the town, so that while ^6 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. able to pitch in their projectiles, they were themselves in a great measure protected. This was much more dexterous than putting them on the top of the slope. I believe there were not more than a dozen large guns at each battery. At Nancy I saw a Missel Thrush, which I mention be- cause M.M. Kroener and Fournel say it is a summer migrant. There is a Common Buzz,ird, pure white even to the claws, at the Museum. It was killed at St. Barthelemy marshes hard by. I saw another one quite as good and bought it for the Norwich Museum, at Metz. There are also at Nancy local specimens of the Hawk Owl and Tengmalm's Owl, and a brace of Ring Ouzels with pied heads. I saw similar Ring Ouzels in Alsace, particularly in the public Museum at Carlsruhe, and since my return home I have seen several (Zoologist, s.s. 2607, 2805). Both at Metz and Nancy I was shown Long-tailed Titmice, with the white head, and without it. Fournel clings to the exploded idea that the nest of the Long-tailed Titmouse has two openings. I call it exploded, but I am not at all sure that this observant naturalist may not be right, in spite of the weight of testi- mony against him. I can say, as others have said, that I never saw a nest with two holes, but negative evidence is not worth much. See "Land and Water" of May nth, 1872. The birdstuffer at Metz was M. Buchillot, and I have much pleasure in recommending him as a skilful taxider- mist. Where all retail trade is at a low ebb, bird-stuffing is not likely to come to the fore. He quitted the town before the war was over and came to England, but I hear that he is now set up in business at Rheims. I saw a Greater spotted Woodpecker brought in to him, and a Grey-headed Woodpecker. I had never seen the latter in the flesh before. It is decidedly scarcer than the Green. I was in- formed that the Middle spotted Woodpecker was scarcer than the Greater spotted. One of the latter at M. Buchillot's THE FRANXO-GERMAN WAR. 'JJ was remarkable for having the throat and breast chesnut colour. It may have been only a stain. All varieties of Woodpeckers are curious. I have a cock, shot at Easton in Norfolk on the i8th of June, 1870, which is strongly tinged or stained with this chesnut colour on the occiput and scapulars.* If Malherbe, the author of the great work on Woodpeckers, had been alive, he could have settled the question. He lived at Metz, and I had the pleasure of being introduced to his widow. In the Transactions of the Imperial Academy of Metz for 1866, will be found a memoir of him, and a list of his works. Only the duplicates of his collection of Woodpeckers — in number about 200 — are in the Museum ; the rest were sold. At his death he left some 1,500 stuffed birds, and a collection of eggs, which were purchased by the Freres de Beauregard, of Thionville, at whose college I saw them. No localities marked upon the tickets. How much this diminishes the interest of any collection ! If Naturalists would reflect that the particulars known only to them will infallibly be lost after their death, they would surely be more careful on this point. His Natural History library was also disposed of The titles of the books upon the " Ornis " of Lorraine are: — 1st. A catalogue of Buchoz, 1771. 2nd. Faune du department de la Moselle, Holandre, 1825. 3rd. Supplement, 1835. ° My father also has or had a similar one, which was shot near Norwich. At a gentleman's house at Brandon I saw a curious young Greater spotted Woodpecker with the nape and lesser wing coverts choco- late brown. I have seen another very similar in a collection at Cam- bridge ; also another — a cock — in the late Mr. Newcome's collection, with brown back and very brown wings ; and again another is recorded in the " Zoologist " having the scapulars and a portion of the back " an intensely rich brown colour" (p. 8199). 78 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 4th. Faune de la Moselle, Fournel, 1836. 5th. Zoologie, dans la Statistique du department de la Moselle, Malherbe, 1854. 6th. Especes d'oiseaux observees recemment. Malherbe. 1855. "Bulletin de la Societe d'histoire naturelle de la Moselle." 7th. Zoologie de la Moselle. Malherbe. 8th. Zoologie de la Lorraine. Godron. 1863. It will be seen from the above list, which I believe may be depended upon, though I have not seen all the works, that Lorraine is a " Norfolk " among the provinces, and that of patrons there have been plenty for our favourite study. The fine collection of indigenous birds, formed by M. Hollandre, should have found its proper resting-place in the town Museum ; but they are already so much cramped there, that there was no room for them, and they are at the Hotel de Ville at present. I obtained of M. Buchillot a most beautiful variety of the Grey-headed Wagtail, without a speck upon it. It is white, pervaded with the most delicate tint of canary yellow. He was so good as to get down all the rarest birds in his shop to show me. One which I would particularise was a Great crested Grebe, with all the underparts of a deep rufous colour, especially about the lower neck, which was almost chesnut* Another was a Crossbill with the upper mandible greatly prolonged, the lower not being prolonged at all, similar to a malformation mentioned by Mr. Stevenson in the "Birds of Norfolk," vol. I., p. 239. A third was an old cock Merlin, which he said was rare in the adult state. A fourth a Grey Plover in breeding plumage. And a fifth, a cock Blue- throated Warbler without any pectoral spot — Cyanecida Wolfi (Brehm) — (Dresser B. of E., pi, 228). He told me it was not the only spotless one he had seen. The ' The colour did not extend beyond the tips of the feathers. THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 79 white spotted form generally occurred, the red spotted never (he added), which tallies with a statement of M. Marin, of Lille (formerly of Metz) to my father. He told me the names of four species which were not included by Fournel (1. c), but of which he had stuffed specimens. The Spoonbill (imature, killed at Forbach),, Purple Sandpiper,* Grey Phalarope, and Double Snipe (twice). January \6th. At the market. Common Buzzard, Hazel Grouse, Reed Bunting, Yellow Hammer, Goldfinches, Green- finches, Linnets, and many Bramblings. I bought the Buzzard for two " sous." It had been killed at Sarbruck, and frozen as stiff as a board. After being thawed in a portable cooking-stove it made a good skin. It was very rufous on the under-parts. I did not think much of this market, but M. Buchillot told me he had obtained there the Meadow Bunting (Evibcrisa cia), and other good birds occasionally. 20th. Called again on my friend the birdstuffer, and found him in the act of skinning a Whooper Swan,f one of a pair just sent in from Auboue. They were very plentiful about this time in England, vide Zoologist (ss., 2601). 2 1st. Two dead Barn Owls shown to me; identical with the English white-breasted kind. I have good reason for believing that the fulvous variety figured in Rowley's "Miscellany" occurs. Fournel says they eat bats (1. c, p. 102) ; so does Dr. Altum, ** I have shot the Purple Sandpiper at Blakeney, in Norfolk, with down adhering to the neck, but there was no reason to suppose it was bred there. f Among the numbers of Whoopers which I have seen, for the most part hanging up in markets, I have very seldom seen a cygnet, and never a Bewick's cygnet. My father, however, has bought a Bewick's cygnet in the market at Norwich. 80 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. The following is a newspaper cutting. The species is not mentioned, but I have read of a Tawny Owl (Strix stridula, Lin.) giving a man who ventured to meddle with its young such a'box on the ears that his face was lacerated, and it might have easily cost him an eye; but I cannot credit an Owl taking vengeance for her ravished offspring four days after their abduction : — " The Avranchin states that in a Commune, near Avraiiches (in Normandie), an Owl has taken terrible vengeance for the loss of her young, which had been killed by a farmer's lad. For four days the Owl was on the watch, and on the fifth, upon the boy leaving the farm-house, the injured bird, which had been perched upon a tree, pounced down upon him, and with one stroke of its claws tore out his left eye, the sight of which is permanently destroyed." On the 27th I drove by way of Thionville to Longwy with Mr. S. James Capper, who has given a lengthy but very graphic account of our ride and its results in his "Wanderings in Wartime." It was a long way. About two o'clock in the afternoon of the second day I caught sight of our destination, and joyfully exclaimed, " There is Longwy!" "No," said my companion, "it is a ruin." We were both right. Longwy it was, and as utter a ruin as modern artillery could make it. This celebrated fortress, built by the great Vauban, had capitulated two days before at 10 a.m., and was now the disastrous chaos which we saw. Sixty out of its 300 houses were computed to be entirely destroyed, and most of the rest were much battered. Of course the petroleum had set some on fire. A few of them were not yet extinguished : I even saw one in flames. All the public buildings — the cavalry barracks, the artillery caserne, the hospital, the church, etc., were more or less destroyed. The main thoroughfares were blocked with debris of stones, slates, laths, and rafters; and every street was besprinkled with hundreds of fragments of bombs of all shapes and sizes. We had come away from Metz directly THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 8 1 we received the news of the surrender, and hence we viewed war's hideous desolation in all its recentness. However, they say you cannot be the first Englishman anywhere, and sure enough the "Times'' correspondent was at Longwy before us. A German artillery officer took us round the fortifications, and really it was wonderful to see the effect of modern missiles from large mortars. Nothing gave me a better idea of the force with which they came than the mangled trees* on the ramparts. They were most dangerous things to have there. I could quite believe that the Frenchmen dare not show themselves near them for the splinters. A jagged splinter wound is more intractable than a shot wound. During the nine days' rain of bombshells, the inhabitants, to the number of 400, took refuge in the casemates. On visiting these, I found them to be low arched passages under the fortifications. Dreadful places, with scarcely any venti- lation. I cannot think how so many people herded into them. Even here they were not safe, for in spite of being warranted bomb-proof, I saw one place where the massive roof had been broken. Hundreds of beds in rows, which the people had slept in, were still there, and some sick and wounded were not yet removed. For nine days they had endured this black hole, amid the noise and din of 30,000 bursting bomb shells. Yet such good care did the French soldiers take of themselves, that by all this extraordinary burning of powder, only a very {q\w were killed of the i,Soo who formed the garrison of Longwy. On the German side the destruction of life was equally small ; only nine men killed and twenty wounded. I should think there are very few instances on record of a fortified town being besieged and captured with so little loss. Before they began to bombard, the Germans generously allowed all the women ** At another place I saw some good-sized timbers cut clean in two. G 82 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. and children to go out who wished, but no men. As to this they were very strict. About 2,000 took advantage of their license. Their conduct was certainly characterised by humanity all through the afifair. The French soldiers were marched off the first thing after the town was ceded, but some of the officers were still there. Whether they were on parole I did not ascertain, or whether they were permitted the convenience of remaining to pack up after the common soldiery had gone. We transacted our business with M. Offeld, the "juge de paix," whose father commanded the artillery of the National Guard in 18 14, and who had seen Longwy bombarded three times ; and then set our faces towards Longwy Bas, a village at the bottom of the hill, where we left our horse and cart, to have the extreme "satisfaction" of discovering that a rogue had stolen the harness. After three hours' worry we got some more ; but our troubles were not over, for at Aumetz the gallant steed ran away while we were in the inn, and broke spring, trace, and dashboard ! We drove into Metz on the Sabbath morning. As we drew near, the distant reverberation of cannon was borne to us on the frosty air. Paris had capitulated, and flash after flash gleamed from the lofty heights of Phlappeville and St. Julien in celebration of her downfall. Two hours later, and we rattled up the streets crowded with men of both nations, who were hailing the good news of a three-weeks' armistice. On this journey I saw a great many Buzzards (Buteo vulgaris, Leach). Some thought the dead horses attracted them, but I fancy that this kind of carrion was mostly underground before Christmas.* At any rate I saw enough ^' The son of the castellan of Raglan Castle, near Monmouth, had a tame Buzzard when my father was at the castle in 1872, which he had obtained from an adjacent wood. He told him that he gave it twenty- THE FRANCO-GERMAN WAR. 83 on that frosty morning's drive to know that war does not scare them away, as suggested in " The Field " of March nth, 1871, and by Lord CHfton in the Zoologist, (pp. 2481, 2561). Again and again, as we rode along the crisp high- way, I had to shout to make them get off the poplar trees ; and often I longed for a gun to procure some of the singular varieties, for few birds vary more than the Common Buzzard. I also noticed a good many Kestrels asleep in the trees, and now and then a small covey of Partridges (Perdix cinerca). The so-called French Partridge* is exceedingly rare in Lorraine, and not found at all in Alsace, according to Kroener (1. c). After my return to England, Count Cotlosquet had the goodness to have shot and to send me a very fine Kite, which had its nest in a wood near Metz, eight dead rats at once, which was enough to nonplus most Hawks, but the undaunted Buzzard proceeded most methodically to split their heads open, and eat the brains of every rat in succession. I dare say they are still found in limited numbers in that part of Wales. * A gunner of the name of Hornigold chanced to see eight birds alight in Lynn Wash — that is to say on the water. Wild fowl being his livehhood, he lost no time in " lying down " to them in his punt, but great was his surprise when instead of Ducks they proved to be a Avorn-out covey of Red-legged Partridges. They may have been a band of migrants, though I do not think it. More likely frightened and shot at on land, they flew they knew not whither, and losing their way in the fog, escaped Scylla to perish in Charybdis. Hornigold bagged them, and no doubt thought a covey of eight Red-legged Partridges was an unusual booty. SIX MONTHS' BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. CHAPTER I. On the 7th of January, 1875, at the first streak of break- ing day, the shores of the great land of the Pharaohs and the Pyramids became dimly visible to a small knot of expectant gazers standing on the after-deck of the good S.S. Hindostan, one of the finest boats, after the Australia, belonging to the P. and O. Steam and Navigation Co, The Herring Gulls of the Mediterranean in their unsullied purity had been our constant companions. For four whole days a flock of them had followed in our wake, nor do I suppose it was because they were hard up. Theirs was no slender chance of daily bread, for in fact a great deal of broken victuals were constantly being thrown overboard ; besides, with what unctuous rapture the grease from the engines of a steamer is gobbled up by your hungry Gull ! I had never been in Egypt, and as the day broke I could not enough admire the panorama stretched out before me. To the right lay the suburb of Ramleh, and the Viceroy's Summer Palace. To the left the lighthouse and a frowning fort, which seemed to keep the peace between the " old SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 85 harbour," and a capital modern mole, three quarters of a mile long and sixty feet wide. In the foreground, the harbour, with all its varied flags of many nations. Behind, Great Pompey's Pillar, tall and meaningless ; and to back all, a blue sky of such transcendent purity as no painter could depict. As we approached nearer I could perceive, with the help of my glasses, the swarthy sailors with their fantastic clothes and strange headgear, and then our good steamer snorted horribly and came to anchor, and the quarantine men leapt on board, and after that Achmed Abdallah, our Dragoman, all smiles and welcome. Alexandria is utterly different from Cairo ; as much so as St. Petersburgh is from Moscow. In each case the northern is the Europeanized representative of the southern. It is delightful in its way, but besides being far less rich in remains of antiquity, it is not so healthy as Cairo ; and yet I think tourists are wrong in allowing their Dragomen to hurry them, unless, as was our case, their Diabeyha* be al- ready engaged and waiting for them. There is the celebrated Cleopatra's Needle, which it would never do to go away without seeing. It is about its sister obelisk (for obelisks are all in pairs), that there has been so much discussion lately. The facts of the case are that it belongs to us, but our government, deterred by the tre- mendous expense which our neighbours put themselves to in removing one of the Thebes obelisks to Paris, have not liked to take it ; albeit, there have been sundry rumours that the Prince of Wales meant to bring it home, and suggestions that he should dig a channel up to it and put it on a raft, for it lies near the sea. It is also a question with right-feeling people whether all objects of antiquity are not best left in sitit. The two "needles" stand in a stone- mason's yard, and about as much care is taken of them as of ** Nile boat. 86 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. most of the other Egyptian monuments, that is to say, none at all. Our first sight ornithologically speaking, was perplexing, for we passed some men carrying Greek Partridges and Pheasants, where from I cannot say, but certainly not from Rosetta, the locality given me. It was unfortunate that the latter were soiled, for specimens of the true unmixed breed are not easy to get in England. Let me here mention that there are two birdstufifers in Alexandria, M.M. Piacentini and Mayer ; but the former had no stock, and appeared to have almost given up the business, (or the business to have given him up,) and the latter talked of moving to Cairo, where I should think he might meet with some custom from the numerous influential visitors who take up birds for pastime or for study. It may also be serviceable to others to say that the gunmaker is Mr. W. Redding, behind St. Mark's Church ; and the gunmaker at Cairo, M. Cassegrain. They supply fair powder at a price, and central-fire cartridges. The railway journey from Alexandria to Cairo was the most interesting I ever made, for the line skirts Lake Mareotis, and every moment I kept seeing some new species of bird which I had never beheld in the live state before, so that we laid the commencement of that long list of species observed, which ultimately reached 223, — a number, I think I may safely say, never surpassed by any other observer in one tour in Egypt. This line was constructed in 1851, and was the finst rail- way ever made in Egypt. Now there are railways to Minieh, Damietta, Zagazig, and Suez ; and the Khedive's engineers are even constructing one in Soudan. Formerly it was all praise to him for his enterprizing spirit, but now men begin to say that if he saps the public funds much more, he will permanently diminish the country's resources, SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 8y and that he must be hard up to sell his shares in the Suez Canal. Grand Cairo is truly an Eastern city, despite stucco houses and other inroads of modern innovation. Its streets, dirty, narrow, and badly paved, are the worst thing about it ; yet even these are redeemed by the antique wood carving of the lattice windows. The lofty tapering minarets, and the numerous Mosques, are unique in their way. I went over the Mosques of the Citadel and Sultan Hassan, From the ramparts of the former a noble view is obtained of the city, of the distant Pyramids, of Boulac, and the shipping, and of the silver river winding its course to Rhoda.* Here the last of the betrayed Mamelucks, when his companions were fallen and dead, made his despairing plunge into the gulf below. It is the Sultan Hassan Mosque that is partially built of the polished casing of the Great Pyramid. It has been long falling into sad decay. Most of the Mosques are banded in the most extraordinary way with red and white, not blocks of granite and alabaster as any one would naturally suppose from the paintings of Roberts and others ; but tawdry, vulgar paint. This is very bad taste in embellishment, and it extends to the houses and coffee shops, many of which are bedaubed with most absurdly grotesque figures of .ships, trees, lions, and all manner of nameless monsters. Such is the art of painting among the modern Egyptians ; and to make it worse, they will often erect a hideous thing like a scaffold for tying coloured lamps to on fantasia days. It was never my fortune to witness one of their illuminations, but they need be very splendid to compensate for the excessive ugliness of the scaffolding at all other times. The shops and bazaars present a glittering appearance ** There are two islands called Rhoda, but this is "Nilometer" Rhoda. 8S RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Avith tlieir swords, and carpets, and rich Stambouli shawls, and lamps, and turquoises (which are very cheap at Cairo), and grand amber mouthpieces, and red slippers, and attar of roses. The curious system of shopping is altogether the most inconvenient that ever was invented, and it shows it- self, for instance, in buying pipes. If you want to purchase a chibook, you go to one shop for the stem, to another for the bowl, and to the bazaar for a mouthpiece, and you haggle over each purchase until you beat the price down one half, losing your temper and wasting your valuable time. If the article be a costly one, the arguing lasts proportion- ately longer ; coffee is sent for ; and passers-by mix in and freely give their opinion on the value of the goods. Time is no object in Egypt, as many a western traveller has dis- covered to his cost. There is no fixed price for anything, and you waste an hour over what could be bought in five minutes in London. There are three kinds of pipes in general use — the Chibook, the Nargcckli, and the GozeJi. I have smoked them all, and give the preference to the NargedcJi, though that is said to be the most injurious from the effort of pulling, which causes the smoker to inhale the tobacco into his lungs like air. The Chibook is perhaps the one most commonly in use. It is a stick, some five feet long, of cherry or jasmine, with a Siout pottery bowl (brown or black), and a handsome amber mouthpiece. Ccrani is the best tobacco for the Chibook ; Tovibak for the Nargcclcli. I wish I knew how to give an idea of gay Cairo, the ancient city of the Memlook Sultans, the capital of modern Egypt, and its busy throng. In the cramped and crowded Mosquee* all known trades would seem to flourish, and are represented by all known languages, which issue forth in a *' The principal street in Cairo. SIX months' bird collecting in egvpt. 89 strange Babel from the mouths of men clad, I may say, hi all known hues of burnous, scarf, and turban. Like Brewster's kaleidoscope are the ever-shifting tints of so great a multi- tude of many -coloured dresses beneath the vertical glare of an eastern sun. The noiseless camel witli heavy load bumps against the passer-by. Black eunuchs attend the carriages of the ruler's hareem.* Veiled women ride on white asses, nobly caparisoned. Gaily-dressed runners pre- cede the carriages, vociferating to the crowd to get out of the way, — and he who is run over after that, must blame himself The seller of tobacco sits cross-legged on his divan. The money-changer counts up coins of many nations. The ven- dor of sweet liquor clatters his brass cups as he walks about. There are men for every trade, and purchasers for every ware. Pot-bellied boys, bareheaded derwishes, and blear- eyed beggars jostle tlie subtle Greek with the embroidered scarf and the grave old Bey on his red-pomellcd ass — ^jostle American tourists, English speculators, French engineers — jostle soldiers, muezzins, and artizans — all who come in their way, rich and poor, high and low, walkers, riders, drivers, in alleys so blind, in streets so crooked, in lanes so narrow, as only the mind of an eastern architect could have conceived. The public garden is called the Ezbekeah. It has been laid out at great expense by the present Viceroy. Notwith- standing every difficulty, a beautiful lawn of grass has been obtained, such as I never thought to see in Egypt. On the ornamental sheet of water are pinioned Tufted Ducks and Pochards. Warblers resort to the trees, of which many * Eastern etiquette requires that all people should turn their heads and look another way when the Hareem passes. He who does not comply with this custom may chance to receive a blow from the flat of the eunuch's sword. 90 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, foreign kinds have been introduced ; and even the Barn Owl finds a retreat there, and is to be seen at night fear- lessly flying over the gas lamps. A few years ago, before the Viceroy took it in hand, this place was a swamp, and at hieh tide was a " birkcf full of water. CHAPTER II. We started from Cairo on the 12th of January, for Damietta. The following are the names of the crew, as taken down by one of my compaions : — Reis Taha (Captain). Reis Ismail (steersman). Mohammed. Hassan. Ahmed. Alii. Alii el Safeeh. Ahmed Dar. Hassanin. Faguir. Mensoor. Selim. Machmoud (the companion of our walks, whom we afterwards took to the Faioum). Abdalla. Ahmed. Dragoman. Ahmed Abdalla (from Alexandria). Waiters. Stephano Rinaldini (a Swiss). Mohammed Ali. 92 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Cooks. Abdou (from 2nd cat.) Khaire (from 3rd cat.) Dragoman'' s Boy. Pharach. The above may seem a large retinue, but it is impossible with the present system to do the Nile voyage with less, unless you are content to go up in a steamer ; but no one should think of that who has plenty of time to spare, and can afford a Diabeyha. Little need be said of the voyage down the Damietta branch. There are no ruins, and it is only undertaken by those who go to shoot. At the Barrage we were de- tained several hours both in coming and going. Unless tourists agree otherwise in their contract, they will have to pay about seven pounds toll on the bridges, and the same on their return. We had a great deal of rain, and lightning several times, and our sailors, many of whom were Nubians, a23peared to feel the cold very much. I must now try to describe the night I passed on Lake Menzaleh. I dare say some persons have seen in English estuaries flocks of Ducks so large that they might be estimated by acres ; but I am not exaggerating when I say that I saw there such droves as could not be distinguished from extensive islands. For over three miles the whole horizon sparkled with one vast unbroken horde, which, when they rose in countless myriads, seemed to darken the air. Pochards were the commonest species ; next to them Shovel- lers, Pintails, and Widgeon, in about equal numbers. Nor was this amazing sight of Ducks all, for in the distance I could perceive an immense line of Flamingoes, whose re- flected hues of white and roseate were flashed back from the water, while the helter-skelter of a mighty army of SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 93 Coots, as they rose, sounded like distant thunder. Alone by himself, a stately Pelican rode at anchor like a monarch of the waters ; and the shrill cry of Gulls and Terns was heard as they passed us in the air. The fishermen had an order to procure four Swans for the Viceroy, and one man had been on this special quest five days. Hasselquist (175 1) mentions Swans on the coast at Damietta, and Mr. Macgregor says he saw some on Men- zaleh, (" Rob Roy on the Jordan," p. 70,) but still it is some- way south for such noble denizens of more northern regions, and the Viceroy is quite right to get them when he can. But in this instance the fishermen evidently thought his wishes could not be complied with, in which case the bastinado awaited the delinquents. An order sometimes comes (so they told us) for a thousand Ducks to be sent alive to the capital. Thereupon they have to bestir them- selves, and the Sheik assigns about three hundred to each company of seven boats, with the alternative of twenty guineas' fine if they are not forthcoming by a certain date. They had now in a week only got 113, the order having arrived since the commencement of the moon, which had been full on the 21st. As we approached cautiously to the boats, three in number, I could see that they were slowly driving the Ducks to where the nets were set. Great care is necessary, for if they go too fast or tack too slanting, the Ducks are up directly, and all their trouble will have been for nothing. The nets are not unlike what were in use among the ancient Egyptians (see Rossilini, fig. clap-net). The men have a rope to pull ; they are concealed on an island, and when they see the Ducks are in the right place, they all unite their strength, tug at the rope, and entrap them before they have any time to swim further. A couple of forked sticks are seen standing out of the water, and when the Ducks are between them, this indicates that they are in the right place. The net may be about twenty-five 94 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. yards long; the rope is at least seventy. Too ponderous an affair for one man to manage. The haul was only one Widgeon — not much for many hours' labour, for I was told they had been driving since daybreak. The thing was done on a smaller scale by our own boat- men, who placed a small clap-net at the end of the island where we anchored, and made a kind of cacJic in which one of them spent the night, and next morning he produced a drake Pintail which he had caught, and which we kept alive in a hutch for long after. I must now describe how Coots are captured, for it was more particularly to see the mode of taking them that we had come out. As soon as night sets in, four or five " Coot- catchers " sally forth in a flat -bottomed boat, provided with a fireplace of baked mud, and a couple of punting poles, for the greater part of this immense lake is very shallow. Soon the distant "muttering" of the quarry is heard. The boat is propelled circumspectly, silence is enjoined, until from the increasing volume the men judge that they are within a few hundred yards of the place the sound comes from. Then one, more hardy than the rest, slips aside his pelisse of sheep-skin, stands erect for a moment, naked save a thin waistband and a tight-fitting black skullcap, winds a long casting net round his right arm and jumps into the water ; and now the use of the skullcap is seen, for as he is immersed to his nostrils it is the only part which shows, and of course it resembles a Coot exactly.* He makes a trial essay with his net, which he throw^s with consummate skill. I have seen men in England who thought they knew how to throw a casting net, but I never saw one who could equal in dexterity these Menzaleh fishermen. I should say he would be certain death to any * Formerly a -whliQ plaque was added to represent the frontal shield, but this is now dispensed with. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 95 Coot within twenty-five feet, though there is no cord attached to the net. As soon as he has disappeared in the darkness we He down again and wait tlie result ; nor have we long to wait. On a sudden the rush of many wings is heard. The affrighted Coots are up. He has made his cast : there is no longer any need for silence. His comrades in the boat make up the fire, and after throwing out a bundle of blazing reeds to show they have moved, pull rapidly towards the place the sound came from. We strain our eyes in peering through the darkness until in a few minutes we perceive him returning dripping wet, with the Coots alive in the net, having been absent little more than a quarter of an hour, — long enough all the same to freeze him to the very bones. They wrap the poor wretch in a "burnous," and then he stands over the fire and hterally steams. All night these sturdy fellows follow the working of the Coots with dogged perseverance if they go on feeding, but if the night is calm. Coots do not feed after twelve. On a still night they sleep best, and then as many as 150 are sometimes caught. They have an ingenious mode of securing them by tying the tips of the wings together under the body in front of the legs. A fat Coot sells for a shilling, a thin one for a franc. I saw basketfuls on sale in Damietta, but I imagine a good many are consumed on board the boats, for near Geut-El-Nosara* quantities of wings were to be seen floating on the water, which had once appertained to Coots. I searched for the Crested Coot, but could not learn that such a bird was known. Before leaving the lake, we anchored against a small island which had been once a Roman station, for there were any amount of urns of all shapes and sizes, (but none of them perfect,) and bricks in squares, and hundreds of little * i.e. the Christians' country, — the port at the west end of the lake. g6 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. pieces of glass of brillant and varied colours. Besides these treasures we found a ring, a polished seal, and many coins of copper or bronze. Nor is this the only island that those ancient heroes dwelt on, for on one which we did not visit, so many valuables have turned up that it is commonly called the Island of Gold. Our Diabeyha returned to Cairo on the 14th of February, and before starting for Upper Egypt it was resolved to devote a day to the Pyramids. They stand on a rock, and cultivation or Jiagar goes nearly up to them. The ascent of the big one is generally made at the north-east corner, where the pathway to the summit is well marked. Half way up several large stones have been removed, where th^e pilgrim can rest awhile, and one regrets to see that many are gone from the base at the corners. The Pyramid Arabs are an unmitigated nuisance. They have a nominal right to a tarif of two francs: of course they exact four shillings, and would be a cheap riddance at the price, but go they will not while one of the Hozvadjas is left. Between the second Pyramid and the Sphinx, fragments of mummies are lying about in various directions : these things ought to be put underground. I saw a great many at Massara, where the Viceroy has been making a tramway to the quarries. One of the skulls had some hair upon it of a reddish colour. I will not inflict on my readers any long account of the Nile voyage, which has been worn threadbare. I will only say that I cannot imagine anything more delightful. Un- fortunately it is very expensive, and is becoming more so ; yet to the invalid and antiquarian it is money well spent. Master of a well appointed boat, he sees an ever-changing panorama pass by him of Pyramids, Temples, and Tombs, altogether unparalleled in the history of the world. He sees the creaking Shadoof and the Sakia-\VQ\\, the pigeon village, the raft of pots, the swimming Dcmnsh, the browzing camel, and the Doiirra Palm, the women who SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 97 draw water, and the naked children with potbellies and filthy flies clustering around their eyes, and marvels anew at each bend of the river. As he smokes and lounges on the quarter-deck, he hearkens with amusement to the shrieks for backshish with which an infant population rend the air, in the insane hope that the Diabeyha will stop for the express purpose of giving them a present. Backshish is the potent word of Egypt, and it is probably the first they learn to utter. It assails the traveller almost before he can set foot upon the quay, it follows him out shooting, it goes with him to the temples, it becomes obstreperous at the Pyramids, and the night after his visit there, backshish will mingle with his dreams of those mighty relics of the past. The principal stopping place is generally made at Thebes, which is only a small place, but the unrivalled ruins — grander than any others in the whole known world — are naturally a great attraction. The magnate of the place is Her Majesty's Consul, Mustapha Basha. To him we lent " Moss Gathered," or a " Guide Book to Thebes," by R. S. Ferguson, which must have tickled the old gentleman, who had never seen it, and who there found his peculiarities and the minutiae of his daily life set down at full length! I do not like to pass by Thebes without describing the glories of the great hall of Karnac, but I feel that I can say nothing which has not been better said by others before me. With regard to the superb tombs of the kings, I shall not forget what a broiling walk I had to them, how deliciously cool they were after it, and how richly the sight of the paintings, fresher far than anything I saw in any other part of Egypt, rewarded me. That day is fixed in my mind for another reason, for, coming back from the rocky gorge, I encountered five new species of birds (Lesser Kestrel, Rock Thrush, Nightingale, Collared Flycatcher, and Glossy Ibis,) and shot four of them. At Thebes, in accordance with the custom, we illuminated H 98 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. our boat, and very pretty she looked with about lOO lanterns, each reflected in the water. Minieh, Siout, and Keneh, are good-sized towns, which merit a visit. Keneh is celebrated for its dates, which are too much flavoured with musk for my taste. At Siout there is a manufactory of pottery very much patronised by English tourists. The principal things turned out are red and black pots trays, gooleh jars, pipe bowls {some of them on wheels), coffee cups, and " Crocodile foot scrapers," which are bought for a mere nothing and packed in crates by the vendors. CHAPTER III. There were three rifles on board, but they were not suited for crocodiles, nor were they of much use for birds. The fact is, it is extremely difficult to hit even a very large bird at 150 yards from a Diabeyha, and a couple of Storks was all our rifles killed. The banks are too populous — particularly in the Delta — to use a long-range weapon with safety. The following is a list of some of the birds we shot which have more interest to the sportsman than to the naturalist. We arrived too late for good Duck shooting ; indeed, any- one wishing to visit Egypt for the winter sport ought to go in November. Snipe Jack Snipe Painted Snipe - 136 46 29 Garganey Ducks Teal Marbled „ 7 6 6 Egyptian Geese White-fronted Geese - 10 2 Sandgrouse Senegal Sandgrouse 35 12 Pintail Ducks 18 Pelicans 3 Pochard Ducks 4 Crane I Nyroca „ Tufted Wild 3 I Storks - Spoonbills - Eagles - 7 - 16 7 Widgeon I Avocets 12 Ruddy Shelduck - Shoveller Ducks I 8 Quails - 307 Small birds can be conveniently preserved with carbolic acid by those who have not leisure to skin them. We car- bolized 200, and lost ten per cent, chiefly from keeping 100 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. them too long before they were done, but they are more susceptible to the attacks of insects than skins. The 7nodits operandi is as follows, First break in the keel of the breastbone. Then cut with your long-handled, sharp- pointed scissors from the posterior margin to the vent, and after applying plaster of paris freely, squeeze out the entrails by pressing on the back with the thumb. Then remove lungs and heart, and stop up the cavity with acid and wool. Half a teaspoonful is enough for a Dunlin, which is as large a bird as you can safely do. It then only remains to put a quarter of a teaspoonful down the mouth, and the bird is done. The crystallized carbolic is best, as that is undiluted. It must not be exposed to heat or light, or it will become liquid and lose a portion of its strength. Great care is necessary not to drop any on the fingers. It hardens the flesh and takes away the sense of touch, or it may produce an ulcer. The antidote is to wash it off im- mediately, and steep the part in oil. The " Collector's Vade Mecum," by Mr. Hume, gives a still graver caution. " Remember," says the author, " that the smallest drop of the acid in the eye permanently destroys the eyesight." This useful brochure gives full instructions for preparing birds by carbolic acid and other means. I ought to say that though birds preserved with it can be skinned after- wards, they are a great deal of trouble, and never look well. Beasts. There is no large game on the Nile, except Crocodiles and a few Gazelle. A small herd of the latter inhabit the desert at Gow, where we saw them in the up voyage, and again in the down voyage. Hyenas are said to exist, and at the Memnonium I saw a beast one night which I was told was a Wolf Jackals cannot be very common, as I SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 101 never observed any. Going along the edge of a field one day in the Delta, I met three large Ichneumons following one another up a rut, their backs appearing and disappear- ing as the waving corn — then about six inches high — was bent down by the wind. On several occasions we came upon these creatures — always unexpectedly, which was probably why we never shot one. At Assouan I bought a Monkey's skin, probably brought from Soudan. At the Faioum a Hedgehog was offered to us. Bats. "Woofwat." Egypt with its rock-cut tombs and temples, is a great country for Bats. As I did not know their names, I could- only distinguish them by size. There was one very small species, smaller than our Pipistrelle ; another somewhat larger went in flocks. Perhaps this is the species which attacks the Palms ; I was told at Damietta that they suffered greatly, and that men were employed to search out the Bats systematically and kill them. In a tomb at Siout I saw about 200 of the largest size, and shot a male and female ; the former, which was the larger, measured twenty- two inches from tip to tip. I also saw hundreds of Long- tailed Bats go down a hole at Beni Hassen. In the square, one afternoon in June, at Alexandria, there were many which had come out before their usual hour, and they were flying so low that the coachmen were hitting at them with their whips. Fish. The fish of the Nile are poor and unpalatable, though they grow to a large size. I saw one enormous creature dead at Girgeh ; it must have weighed 100 pounds. Two Griffons were watching its decomposition with an appearance 102 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of interest. They are mostly taken with hooks. Macgregor mentions small fish jumping into his canoe at Menzaleh. This occasionally happened to us in our punt. Reptiles. A " woiran " or Monitor Lizard was shot at Gebel-Abou- Foeder, fifty-six inches long. It was clinging to the base of the cliff. This was the largest of the tribe we saw, but Egypt is full of Lizards and Snakes. I believe no Croco- diles are found below Abou-Foeder. We saw a small one there, and several larger ones higher up. Insects. No sooner had we arrived on board our Diabeyha than we became aware of fleas in large numbers, which marked us out as their legitimate quarry. Whenever in Upper Egypt, owing to a head wind or for the sake of sport, we stopped, we became a prey to a malignant host of devasta- ting flies, who were not to be banished by the infusion of quassia, or by a nightly slaughter among their serried ranks. At the Faioum an alarming incursion of insects took place into our tents almost every evening, generally about eight o'clock, chiefly flying beetles of strange contour and vast proportions : while at Shepphard's Hotel, night was rendered hideous by pertinaceous mosquitoes, which no amount of smoking would keep off. Palm Trees. The common tree of Egypt is the Date Palm. Every Palm pays a tax to the Viceroy — not much inducement to the fellaheen to plant more. There is frequently so little soil on their roots, that it seems as if the first puff of wind SIX iMONTHS' BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. I03 must bring them down ; but they have rather a tenacious grasp of the ground. I consider them very bad trees for birds. The wood is not of much use. The inhabitants of ancient Syene take a six-foot log of it, and on that venture to come down the cataract of El Bab. We purchased logs of them, and after a good deal of practising, one of my com- panions attained some proficiency in this art of paddling. Some time ago a young Englishman was so excessively foolhardy as to attempt the cataract, which no one but a native can safely do : his rashness cost him his life. In Upper Egypt the Date Palm gives place to the Dhom, the tree from which vegetable ivory is obtained. The fruit grows in clusters, and is about the size of a large apple. Those I examined were hard and brown. Having with considerable difficulty cut one open, I found the vegetable ivory to be the core. There is also a third species of Palm called the Dourra, which is hardier and more generally distributed than the Dhom. CHAPTER IV. Let me try to sketch an ornithological walk, any bright Spring morning, in the land of Egypt. The rising sun is bursting through a cluster of stately Palm trees, but it sheds its light on no birds there, for the Palms, contrary to what has been said by some, are not good trees for birds save and except the moping Night Heron, who is now so sleepy as to be indifferent to the presence of the arch-enemy, man ; but in the line of Sont trees on the other side, a sparkling flock of Beeeaters are celebrating their arrival by flashing backwards and forwards in its rays, unmindful of the herds- man and his flocks. In the midst of the grove stands the village with its 150 inhabitants, who dwell in squalid houses built of mud. They are the heavily-taxed and oppressed fellaJiecn, the agricultural population of the country. Some of them are smoking the long diibook ; others squat on their hams and do nothing, or idly watch the laden women returning home with GoolcJis of water on their heads. That invariable accompaniment of every Egyptian village, a pond, is now nearly dry, but a dainty Stilt Plover thinks there is enough water to wade in, and I may here remark that I never saw this bird avail itself of its unusual length of limb for deep wading, preferring rather the shallows, for which one would not imagine from its contour that it was so well adapted. The yellow Pariah dogs, which have been eyeing the strangers with a national hatred, no longer kept back by their masters, rush furiously out, and their barking quickly frightens the Stilt away. At the same time a SIX months' bird collecting in egvpt. 105 Green and a Common Sandpiper, which had been feeding- unnoticed on the mud, fly up, but settle again at the end of the pond ; while a flock of Temminck's Stints, too accus- tomed to the noise of a village to be disturbed, only stop feeding for a minute, and then resume again, running about and feeding as if their very lives depended upon getting through a peck of marsh worms by sundown. The villages are generally about a mile apart, and at every village there is a Palm grove. They are seldom far from the banks of the Nile, which at this time of the year is low, uncovering many a tempting sandbank, where flocks of Herons preen themselves, and the Egret — the loveliest of all known birds — performs its solitary ballet dance. A word must be given to the sandbanks. Here the Ziczac Plover, that most characteristic of Egyptian birds, flies at the intruder, and with a winnowing motion of its armed wings endeavours to intimidate him, and reiterating its harsh cry, drives the crocodile, which had come out to bask, to his lair at the bottom of the river. Here too the gay " Pluvian " flies low over the surface of the water, and here six Garganeys, the last left of all the Duck tribe which swarmed a few weeks ago, disport themselves in a back- water such as one sees in many a tidal harbour. The most careful steering will not prevent Diabeyhas from running on to sandbanks, and sticking hard and fast there. When this happens there is nothing for it but to tug and strain and heave and bellow until they are got off again, and this is sometimes a work of many hours, even occasionally of days. Meanwhile the mortified passenger sees the cangia and the lighter nicrkcb pass him by with impunity. But this delay is an opportunity for striking inland to where the desert and cultivation meet, a limit defined for miles and miles, which the shifting sands may modify but can never obliterate. The last field is soon reached, and there is no animal I06 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. life beyond that, according to my experience, save perchance at its very fringe a few Chats, and the Crested Lark which is omnipresent ; but nothing, I am convinced, to repay a long and weary trudge into the Sahara. It is not the desert, it is the ripening barley and the strips of lentils which will tempt the sportsman and beguile him to keep the Diabeyha waiting with a favourable wind, for these teem with Quails so fat, so tender, and so luscious, as to more than merit the high praise which has been bestowed on them. It would give an English yeoman a fit to see the Hoivadjas walking through the standing crops, but not a word does the farmer of Egypt say. He looks on with perfect indifference : no complaint escapes him. Even a smile lights up his stolid face, and he appears to be inwardly applauding when his tame Pigeons go by, and a successful shot brings them down. Different races have different ways. Truly de gnstihns, etc. But he really cannot stand it when the Howadja walks among his water-melons for a paltry Rufous Warbler, and he does feel called upon to object to his trampling down such valuable plants for such insignificant game. Accordingly it is only due to him that his wrath should be appeased with a backshish of powder, a present more acceptable than the copper alloy coins, of which every dragoman thinks it necessary to bring a sackful. All this time there has not been a cloud overhead, and only a close scrutiny into the clear blue sky will reveal the Griffon Vultures which circle far up, like dots, in the vault of heaven ; yet nothing escapes them from their dizzy height. If there be a carcass or any putrid matter about a village, the Neophrons are the first to find it out, by their eyes and not by their nostrils. " Pharaoh's Hens " are a marked feature in the zoology of Egypt, and valued for their sanitary qualities, for they are the birds which preserve the public health by clearing away the filth and festering SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 10/ offal, of which the very stench alone is enough to breed a pestilence. Scavengers they are, at once the most loath- some and the most useful of winged animals on the face of the earth. You may see them distended with dung, their beaks reeking with gore, yet still tearing at the meal with which they are already overgorged. You may see them again at sunset congregating to roost ; and you see them again next day still ravenous as ever to partake of that which it is their office to remove. Second only to these harpies of the air are the Yellow- billed Kites, in their usefulness in removing tainted matter, and the Board of Health of Egypt, or in default of such an institution, public opinion, has decreed to both protection. They are as bold and audacious as birds would be which are dependant on man for their living. The hovering Kestrel stands out in bold relief against the sky, but the Sparrowhawk prefers to keep among the trees, where he waits his opportunity to make prey of the White Wagtail, which was so abundant a short time ago. The Harriers also do not object to perch on trees, though it is not their general rule. They like beating the fields better, which they may be seen doing any day in April in a workmanlike manner. The Marsh Harrier is commonest, Swainson's second, then the Hen Harrier, and lastly Montague's, which perhaps is accidental or only found on migration. I have been led into somewhat lengthy remarks on the Accipitirs ; of all families it is the one best represented in Egypt ; so much so, that the most unobservant person can- not fail to be struck with it. While my attendant is rolling a cigarette, I pause a moment to wonder what goal all the thousands of pale Egyptian Swifts which are careering by can have. They pass by, but there is no check ; others take their place. Can they who press on with such steady purpose stop short of I08 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Europe ? Their heads are all to the north ; they are flying low, like birds with a settled object. Less numerous, but still innumerable, and with the same aim, and flying in the same direction, I see a cloud of Sand Martins. At the rate they are now going they will soon be decimating insect life at Cairo, and hawking over the pools of El Fostat, in conjunction with the Rufous -breasted Swallow and its distinct English congener. But all Egyptian birds are not migrants. There are the stay-at-homes, and one of these is the Hooded Crow, which sits in the Sycamore-fig, announcing with loud caws, to all who may be interested in the fact, that she has laid her eggs ; and another is the parasitic Greater spotted Cuckoo, which chuckles at the thought of having added one to the number. These belong to a class which is divisible into flats and sharpers ; birds who " do " others, or are themselves " done." In the long grass the Fantail builds her gem of a nest, and the Drymceca gracilis, another minute Warbler, chir- rups to her young ones, " branchers " already with little bodies and no tails. Small rodents spring into the ditches : lizards scuttle up the walls of the houses ; the moving snake eyes the fledgling ; and the sly fox trots away among the tobacco plants. So great is the overflow of animal life, that no one can fail to be struck by it. Only those can appreciate the scene in its zoological aspect who are capable of discrimina- ting between the many species, though all can and must, listen with unmixed feelings of pleasure to the chanting of the choristers, and the hum of many insects, and all must feel the balmy air and fragrant luxuriance of foliage and blossom, and derive enjoyment from the view before them, the rock-cut tombs, the tents, the camels, the Bedouins with their long guns, the latteen sails upon the river, and the mountains in the hazy distance. I shall be pardoned if I next submit a brief companion SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. lOQ picture of the prominent species to be met with in June at such a lake as the Faioum (Birket-El-Korn). First the little long-tailed African Cormorant goes by with straight undeviating flight, like one who knows what place he wants to go to and is going there, leaving behind him the wanton Terns, who have no object in life but lightly to sport over the water as they watch for their finny prey, assured that the warm sun will take care to incubate their eggs. In noisy conclave the Buff-backed Herons trim their nests, and the shyer Squacco is uneasy at any disturbance the mean- ing of which he does not understand, while the cautious Egret takes his stick away again, wisely jealous of revealing the whereabouts of his yet unfinished edifice. The Dalma- tian Pelican swims away with all sail set, or flaps and glides, and flaps and glides over the water, his huge form mirrored on the surface, startling the basking fish, which hurry from the presence of their enemy. Marbled Ducks in pairs rise from among the sedges : agile Grebes put their trust in diving : the tall reeds quiver as the Green-backed Porphyrio seeks their friendly shelter: the Reed Warbler sounds a loud alarum. All fly to the nearest cover, and in those thick beds they find a secure haven. CHAPTER V. I HAVE often thought it would be convenient if collectors would give a short summary of the results of their expedi- tions. The only absolutely new bird to Egypt which I can claim to have got was the Lesser White-fronted Goose, bought of M. Filliponi ; for the Norwich Museum contained a specimen of the Desert Buzzard* from Rosetta ; the English Swift was admitted to inhabit Egypt, though it had never been obtained there ; and the Marbled Duck was once got by Canon Tristram, albeit the fact was not made public ; but these three species now appear as Egyptian for the first time on positive information. The confirmation of Captain Shelley's suppositions concerning the first two is of great interest. With regard to the Green-backed Porphyrio and African Cormorant which we got at the P"aioum, though they had escaped the observation of the English, they had been noticed by some of the continental authors ; and here again the corroboration which we are now able to give to the latter was very desirable. Several of the birds collected by us differed in a marked manner from British specimens, but while giving the points of difference under their respective heads (see the Stone- chat and Sand Martin), I have felt that it would be too great a riskf to describe any of them as specifically distinct. "' Also see the Huddersfield Naturalist, Vol. II., p. 304. •f It would appear that quite seven-tenths of the names which have been bestowed on " new birds " within the last few years, have ah-eady sunk into synonyms, and the advance of science has thereby been im- peded. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. Ill Of species previously supposed to be winter visitors, we got the Sanderling and some others in May, and the Avocet, Little Stint, Pigmy Curlew, and Lesser Tern in June ; and I may add the Little Bittern in the same month, about which nothing certain was known. The range of the Olivaceous Warbler and the Scissorbill was extended north, and that of the Caspian Tern, White - winged Tern, Linnet, and one or two other species, south. The right of admission was also confirmed to sundry doubtful birds, and I regard this as one of the best results of our researches, such as Baillon's Crake and Montague's Harrier, which were only admitted into his work by Captain Shelley on sufferance. All the birds which we got and he did not get I have marked in my list with a star (*). For convenience sake I will here give a list of them :* Sociable Vulture, Bonelli's Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Montague's Harrier, Grey Wagtail, Black Redstart, Rock Swallow {?), Orphean Warbler, English Swift, Reed Warbler, Great Sedge Warbler, Baillon's Crake, Dunlin, Sanderling, Marbled Duck, Eared Grebe, White- winged Tern, Lesser Tern, Lesser Pelican, African Cor- morant, and twenty-second and last, the rare Lesser White- fronted Goose. Eighteen hundred and seventy-five was reckoned a cold spring, and a backward summer. There was no KJianiseen (the hot south wind). Li spite of this I noticed some very early migratory arrivals ; for instance the Egyptian Swift { Cypselus pallidus) was seen on February 14th ;f others, on the other hand, came later than the time given for them in the "Birds of Egypt," as, for example, Tiirtur isabellina, ^ All but three are mduded in the " Birds of Egypt." f Mr. E. C. Taylor tells me that he does not consider that Cypselus pallidus is a migrant. 112 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Avhich we had been looking out for full three weeks before we saw it on the 26th of March. The following parallel columns of dates are intended to show the difference in the time of arrival between Egypt and England, but they are not the same individual birds which pass from the one country to the other, at least we may fairly surmise that they are not. The dates for Egypt are from my notebook, those for England being the mean of twelve years' observations of earliest arrivals made by my father, or abstracted by him from the various periodicals. ] EGYPT. ENGLAND. Sand Martin February 21st' March i8th Wheatear - Marc :h 8th „ loth Swallow 5) 14th „ 26th Reed Warbler )) 31st April 25th Redstart 5) ;> „ 23rd Turtle Dove April 2nd May 8th House Martin )) 3rd April 2nd Sedge Warbler V 5th March 28th Cuckoo >) 7th „ 1 8th Nightingale » 13th „ 26th Lesser Whitethroat )) 5? - ' April 28th Greater „ J) 14th „ 2ISt Spotted Flycatcher - >) 22nd May 6th Whinchat - )) 23 rd April 15 th Tree Pipit - ?) ?j „ 14th Golden Oriole May I St May 6th I will now draw a further comparison between Egypt and Algeria, and it may be as well to remember that Algeria is upwards of 600 miles, or more than ten degrees further north than the tropic of Cancer, which bounds Egypt to the south ; yet there is very little difference in the time of the arrival of its migrants. EGYPT. ALGERIA. House Martin - April 3rd - February 17th Swallow - - March 14th - „ 19th SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. II3 EGYPT. ALGERIA. Tree Pipit - April 23rd March i8th Sand Martin February 21st „ 22nd Sedge Warbler April 5th „ 24th Redstart March 31st „ 27th Nightingale April 13th „ 31st Greater Whitethroat „ 14th April 1st Turtle Dove „ 2nd „ nth Spotted Flycatcher „ 22nd „ 24th Roller „ 9th „ 25th It is in April that the great tide of birds press northwards, and ours, which happened to be by many Aveeks the last Diabeyha up the river, just hit off the feathered pilgrims, as I had calculated it would do. A mighty army they were, bound many of them for the Delta, many of them for the more northern shores of Europe. By the 29th the main troop had passed : the rush was over. The Tree Pipit and the Golden Oriole, the last of the migrants, had arrived. When these stragglers had passed we saw no more birds, ex- cept the residents and a few Turtle Doves, Rufous Warblers, etc., which had found their journey's end sooner than the main body, and were already commencing the duties of incubation, not to migrate any more until the returning wave in autumn should impel them south again. I am not one of those who think that migration in Egypt is very dependent on the overflow of the Nile. I know that the early writers attributed it to that, but they seem to have ignored the fact that the vernal and autumnal move- ments take place just as much in any other country, though I can well believe that it is nowhere more observable or more patent to everybody's eye. I am of course aware that the Nile at Christmas offers a splendid resort to all water- birds, and countless throngs avail themselves of it, but these very birds show that they are not wholly governed by the subsidence of the waters by not quitting before March, a period when the river is comparatively low, and I 114 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. when Ducks and Geese are equally quitting England and other countries in Europe. Again, I do not believe that they come to Egypt before November or late in October, though I cannot speak from my own observation. The river Nile begins to rise at the end of May, so. that it must be nearly "high Nile" before they arrive. No doubt thousands of Spring birds which come to Egypt have wintered not further south than Abyssinia ; but many probably come from a region beyond the equator, where winter is turned into summer, having already bred once. These bring their offspring with them, which, being in the puzzling plumage of immaturity, lead closet-naturalists to set them down as being two years in arriving at maturity.* Others may breed on the great lakes which are the sources of the Nile. In that class I should put the Grey-headed Wagtail, of which I saw large flocks at the end of April, composed almost entirely of young birds, yet fully grown. I think this is the only way to account for the young of Insessorial birds turning up in Europe in April, at which time, in the ordinary course of things, they ought to be in full dress. Instances of their occasionally doing so must have come under the notice of every ornithologist in Eng- land. I do not think the sum of the birds of Egypt can be put at more than 316, which may be roughly divided into 138 residents, 70 accidental stragglers, 48 winter visitors, 33 spring and autumn visitors, and 27 summer visitors. Further researches would probably extend the last item. What is wanted is to work the country between June and October, for the collections which have come to England and America — and they have been numerous, though for the most part made by unscientific persons — have been * In Zambesi, says Dr. Kirk, birds pair in October and breed in December. (Ibis, 1864, p. 313.) SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 115 formed almost without exception in the winter and spring. The most likely place for a future investigator to get new facts is Lake Bourlos (as yet unvisited by any English ornithologist), which lies between Alexandria and Damietta. It is forbidden to shoot on Menzaleh, and Mareotis and the Faioum have been pretty well worked. Indeed the Faioum has been visited by at least four collectors. Going how- ever as late as we did, I was sanguine that we should drop on something new, and if I had not been unwell I have no doubt I should have done a good deal there; as it was, we saw enough to repay us for our journey. Let me recom- mend no one to go the Faioum without a filter, as the water is disgustingly dirty. For getting about the lake a " Una " boat* would be the best thing to bring, as punts, canoes, and indiarubber boats are too small. ** Mr. Broadway of Cairo has two, but he objects to letting them out except for the Nile trip. CHAPTER VI. I SHOULD now like to say something about a bird on which a special interest centres in connection with Egypt, because in old days the pagan dwellers in that land worshipped it, — the Ibis (Ibis cethiopica, Lath., /. religiosa, auct.) What they saw in this fowl to make it one of the objects of their veneration is a vexed question. Some content themselves with saying that it was so; some jump to the conclusion that it was a deadly foe to noxious reptiles ; some quote the plausible Plutarch, who gives three highly recondite reasons, viz., that its black and white plumage resembled the moon's gibbosity, that the space between its legs formed an equilateral triangle, and that it was supposed to make a medicinal use of its beak ! Alas ! alas ! the Sacred Ibis is no longer found in Egypt. What would the shaven priests say if they could live over again "l My humble opinion is that they would say that in their wild state they never were anything but rarities, and confirm the theory of Dr. Adams (Ibis, 1864, p. 32,) that they were imported from the south, I look upon them as an imported exotic, for I cannot conjecture what natural cause can have operated upon them to produce their extinction, if they ever were natives. They were domesticated, in time they became totally dependent on man, Egypt was conquered by another nation, the hand of protection was withdrawn, and the breed died out* But it * The great men who wrote so many reams of paper about its my- thological history, never seem to have known that it was extinct or moribund. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 11/ will be fair to place before my readers all that is to be said in favour of their having been natives, a view hitherto adopted by the majority of naturalists. First. We have a representation in Rosselini of young Ibises in a nest of water-plants (Monumenti Civili., Vol. II., plate XIV.) The body of a nestling in the British Museum is white, the head and neck are black and covered with down. This does not tally very well with the plate; my father suggests that they may be young Glossy Ibises.* Secondly. Herodotus says they are common and often seen, an expression more likely perhaps to be used of wild birds than tame ones. Thirdly. I have found a second species figured in Rosse- lini's " Monuments," supposed to be Gcroiiticiisconiat2ts (Ehr.), which, though never sacred, may, for ought we know, have been once common in Egypt, and now retired further south. If that was so, what happened to the Geronticics may have happened to the Ibis. The Sacred Ibis then is^ from past association, an illustri- ous fowl, and so accommodating is it to the gentry and nobility of England, that like Cook's placards, all who go to Egypt see them ; but to the ornithological portion of the community it never reveals itself! The downright nonsense which has been written about the " Sacred bird of Thoth " would fill a book. The hundred and one authors who have raved about Egypt, vie with each other as to who can say the most improbable things about it. Each chronicles the never-to-be-forgotten moment when at last he saw the venerable Ibis of antiquity. One of the fraternity, at a loss for an epithet, dubs it " the pink-eyed Ibis ; " another, with a fine power of imagination, avows that it came nothing short of "a winged star, dazzling in the sunshine." Yet • It appears however that the young of that bird is the same colour as the young Sacred Ibis (cf. Zoologist, ss. 15.) Il8 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. probably none of these people have ever seen the real bird. They are the dupes of dragomen ; and indignant as they would be if they were told it, the Buff-backed Heron has' been passed off upon them as the vara avis, its unsuspicious character rather assisting than otherwise in keeping up the deception. This has been the real object of their aspira- tions, or some other white bird of the Heron tribe. The fact is that the only modern author who has fallen in with the genuine article, as far as my reading has carried me, is Savigny, and as the account which he gives of its habits seems to have been overlooked, I will quote him. He writes : — ' "Vers la fin du mois de fructidor de I'an 8, [September, 1800] comme je descendois le Nil pour me rendre a Rosette, j'appergus les premiers Ibis blancs, neanmoins, je ne pus les suivre m'en procurer et les examiner attentivement que plus de trois mois apres, pendant un sejour que je fis dans les environs de Damiette et de Menzale. On voyoit encore, k cette epoque, quantite' d'Ibis noirs, mais deja les blancs commencaient a devenir rares ; je ne les retrouvai meme en certain nombre que pres de Kafr-Abou-Said sur la rive gauche du Nil, a 3,000 metres de ce fleuve et a 20,000 de Damiette dans de grandes inondations qui s'etendent jusqu'au lac Bourlos." At p. 50 he says that during autumn Ibises of both species are found in the markets of Lower Egypt, particularly Damietta, with their heads cut off; and that the Glossy Ibis has been often brought him alive, and once the Sacred Ibis; and then at p. 52 he adds : — "Ilparoit que I'espece sejourne en Egypte environ sept mois, au moins encore quelques individus \ Kafr-Abou-Said, le 24 nivose (14 Janvier)." Its extinction therefore must be of comparatively recent date. Fortunately it has not been extirpated altogether, like the Great Auk and the Nestor prodnctiis. It is still SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. II9 common in more southern regions, though driven from its stronghold in Egypt. A statement has been made that it is still a regular migrant in small numbers to Lake Menzaleh, but for this I could find no foundation. If it occurs, it is only as a straggler, and the most unlooked-for rarity. The only reliable instance that I could hear of its being seen of recent date was by Captain Arkwright, who being familiar with it in Abyssinia, may be supposed to know the bird well. He saw one at the Faioum. There are also two said to be Egyptian, but I attach very little credence to them, in the mixed collection at the Kair-El-Aiainy at Cairo, and two or three more in our British Museum with "Egypt" on their stands, but I should not dream of placing the slightest reliance on these after my experience of wrong localities placed upon British Birds in the national collection. A few years ago I saw an Ibis in a garden at Eastbourne in Sussex, the property of Mr. Hurst. It had been shot in the neighbouring parish of Bulverhithe, and being only winged, and that slightly, was purchased and kept alive by a huckster. From him it passed to the keeper of a public house, and from him to Mr. Hurst. It was generally sup- posed that it had escaped from a ship, as vessels come rather near to that portion of the coast, but there is no proof that it was not a voluntary migrant. As it was in good condition and not shy, I was able to make a careful examination and compare it with a specimen oi IbiscetJiiopica. There was a difference, and the conclusion I came to was that it was the Indian Ibis melanocepJiahis* Other birds were venerated in Egypt besides the Ibis, though it is as hard to understand what guided the ancient * In Gerbe's edition of "Degland" (II. p. 327), it is stated that the Prince Bonaparte turned the Ibis cet/uopica of Egypt out of the European hst, and admitted /. melaiiocephalus of India in lieu thereof. 120 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. people in their choice, as it is to comprehend why the wisdom of parHament should enact that the Chiff-chaff be protected and not the Willow Wren (35 and ^6 Victoria, chap. 78). Captain Shelley thinks the Kestrel was made sacred because it destroyed that great pest of Africa, the locust ; but then did it not destroy also the much-loved scarabcEiis, the most sacred of all the emblems of palmy Egypt .-* I believe, if it zvas sacred, that it was chosen out of many for affecting the haunts of men, building its nest as it yearly does in the walls of the houses. Did we in England deify a bird as sacred to home and hearth, the Martin would be selected, or the Swallow, which always court the society of man. But the Kestrel was not the sacred emblem of Horus. That bird was probably the Lanner Falcon {Falco aroeris of Wilkinson, vide "The Ancient Egyptians," V., p. 210), pour- trayed on the monuments with a dark moustache. Dr. Adams, it is true, treats of the bird of Horus as the Kestrel, but I am of opinion that all his remarks really apply to the Lanner (cf. Ibis, 1864, p. ii). With regard to the identification of the numberless birds on the monuments, it is a subject which has been never fully investigated. Before going through the few memo- randa which I made respecting it, I would draw attention to the statement in Murray's guide book that the names are written under some of the animals, which ought to assist considerably in elucidating their species. In the Museum of Mariette Bey at Boulak, there is an undoubted portrait of two Red-breasted Geese, a species not given in Shelley's "Birds of Egypt."* They are half ' The Red-breasted Goose has another and a far more recent claim to be called an Egyptian bird. The late Mr. Allen, while resident in Alexandria, obtained a specimen (not adult) which is now in Mr. Crichton's possession. It is figured in Gould's " Birds of Great Britain." SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 121 the size of life, and are painted, together with four White- fronted Geese, upon a slab which was found by the gentle- man who has amassed this unrivalled collection, at Meydoun. They are supposed to be older than the Pyramids themselves. They are the best executed, and by far the most life-like of any bird-pictures that I saw in Egypt. The White- fronted Geese are not adult, having but little or no black barring on the under surface ; and curiously it was the same with those which we got, which looks as if the species was longer in arriving at maturity than in England. The only other bird in the museum which calls for re- mark, though there are many other things of the highest interest, is an exquisite Sacred Ibis, very fresh and very faithful, which has been drawn, not from the conventional pattern of the tombs, but from nature. In the temple at Edfoo there is a delineation (uncoloured of course) most wonderfully like a Bustard, a species included by Wilkinson with a query ; and in the last tomb but one at Beni Hassan it is easy to make out the Spoonbill, the Barn Owl, the Masked Shrike, and sundry others. No one, naturalist or not, ought to go by this grotto without visiting the two end tombs, though the pictures have been shamefully defaced. The unrivalled cartoons in the tombs of the kings, the beautiful temple of Phils, and many other tombs and temples have been almost spoilt by the selfish cupidity and crass ignorance of a class of visitors who are an unmitigated disgrace to whatever nation they belong to. The Viceroy sees and knows that this is going on, and yet he provides no custodian for any of these places except Dendera. To return to the birds which occur in the sculptures. Sir Gardner Wilkinson gives a list, with a facsimile of outlines, in his " Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians," among which one can recognise the Lesser Ring Dotterel, Spurvvinged Plover (a very characteristic Egyptian bird), at( 2 V. » VII. VIII. X. XI. XIII. XIV. 122 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Avocet, Common and Demoiselle Cranes ; and in the second volume of Rossellini's " Monumenti Civili," there are some capital plates which cannot fail to interest. My father and I think they may be identified as follows : — Night Heron. Pintail Duck. Ruddy Shelduck. Mallard. Teal. Red-backed Shrike. Hoopoe. Avocet. Dove. White-fronted Goose. Sacred Ibis. Pelican. Ostrich. Young Ibises in nest (see antea). In Vol. I. a Geroiiticiis, probably G. coinatus, Ehr., will be found at plates XXXI. and CLV. There is also a figure in Wilkinson's plate LXXV, which I refer with very little doubt to Lcptoptilus cnuneuifer, Cuv.* I have mentioned elsewhere that the Red-breasted Goose is to be considered a bird of Egypt. I will conclude this chapter by enumerating a few others which put in a claim. First. Captain Shelley originally admitted the Eleonora Falcon ("Ibis," 1871, p. 42), and I think it should be rein- stated, as my father considers that the figure of a young male Falco gracilis (A. and L. Brehm) killed near Cairo in September, 185 1, (Archiv fur die Ornithologie, 1856, p. 194,) is undoubtedly nothing else. Second. There is in the Norwich Museum an adult Accipitcr spJicmiriis marked " Egypt," but I greatly doubt the correctness of this locality. It was obtained from a dealer named Warwick. * A Marabou Stork, probably this species, is believed to have occurred at Ajmokra in Eastern Algeria. (Zoologist, 2591.) SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EG\TT. 1 23 Third. There is in the same institution an example of the small race of the Spotted Eagle {Aquila maciilata) from Nubia. Fourth. Messrs. Dresser and Blandford mention an Abyssinian Roller (Coracias abyssinica, Bodd) from Egypt, (the "Ibis," 1874, p. 337,) which is a species which is said to have occurred in Britain (Bree "Birds of Europe," I., p. 157). Fifth. When Macgregor speaks of a large Indian King- fisher arrayed in red and blue, on the Zrier river near Man- sourah, in "The Rob Roy on the Jordan," he probably alludes to Halcyon sjnyrncnsis. Sixth. At p. 278 of the " Histoire Naturelle d'Egypte," Audouin and Savigny include the Grasshopper Warbler, and in their thirteenth folio plate they give a figure of it. The species, however, treated of by these authors are some of them Syrian. Seventh. The Striped Bunting {Embcriza striolata, Licht.) is stated in Temminck's "Manuel" (3rd part, p. 641) to have been brought from Egypt by Ehrenberg and Riippell, but there is probably a mistake here. I find no mention of Ehrenberg's specimen in the " Symbolje Physics," and Riippell's, if correctly named, were probably brought from southern Nubia. Here let me enter my protest against the loose fashion in which the term Egypt is made use of Egypt proper ends at Assouan (the first cataract), though Captain Shelley, for the convenience of Nile tourists, has very properly extended his work as far south as Wady- Halfeh. Eighth. Saxicola erythrcea, Ehr, S. libanotica, Trist, S.finschii, Heugl., are three names referring to one species, which, though not included by Captain Shelley, is stated to have occurred by Mr. Dresser on Von Heuglin's authority, and by Canon Tristram, who mentions having obtained it from Egypt (" Ibis," 1870, p. 495). 124 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Ninth. The author of the "Birds of Europe," in his article on Fidigula riifina, says, " Schlegel speaks of Fuligida riifina as occurring in Egypt, (Mus. Pay Bas, anseres, p. 25,) and Von HeugHn records it from Lower Egypt in winter," which adds another to the hst of Ducks. CHAPTER VII. In arranging my notes on the Birds of Egypt, I have consulted all the works I knew of likely to give me assist- ance, except the German works of Heuglin, Riappell, and others, which for lack of a knowledge of German I have been unable to use as I could have wished. In particular I have made free use of Dresser's " Birds of Europe," and of all the papers in the " Ibis " which have any reference to Egyptian Ornithology. Of Shelley's " Birds of Egypt'" I needly hardly say that it was of the greatest service to me. No one should think of going to shoot birds in Egypt with- out it. I can bear testimony to the accuracy of his field notes. I was surprised not to find it on sale at Robertson's, the English bookseller, either at Cairo or Alexandria, but perhaps the edition is exhausted. The general manual of ornithology for the British tourist is Smith's "Attractions of the Nile," and a very good book it is, but it is not suffi- cient without the more scientific work of Captain Shelley ; and those who wish to make a good use of their oppor- tunities should provide themselves with both works before leaving England. It does not seem necessary to enumerate the titles of all the publications which have treated of Egyptian birds, but there are three on which I should like to offer a iow rt marks, Hasselquist, Savigny, and Sonini. The title of Frederic Hasselquist's work is, '^ Iter Palestinmn, eller Resa til helige Landet," etc. Stockh, 1757. It was translated into German in 1762 ; into English in 1766; and into French in 126 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 1769. My references are to the English edition, which has a different pagination from the original. Nearly half the book is about the Natural History of Egypt, and thirty- five birds are enumerated with remarks. His letters (re- printed from the Literary News of Stockholm,) extend from the spring of 1750 to the spring of 175 1, during all which time it is believed he was either at Alexandria or Cairo. They are full of references to Natural History, He died at Smyrna on the 9th of February, 1752, and to Linnseus the Queen of Sweden committed the task of arranging and publishing his notes. The title of Savigny's work is " Explication Sommaire des Planches dont les dessins ont ete fournis par I. C. Savigny pour I'histoire naturelle de I'ouvrage — Oiseaux de' I'Egypte et de la Syrie — par Victor Audouin." I learn from the preface that some of the drawings are by M. Pretre, the rest by M. Savigny, and that the letterpress is by M. Audouin, assisted by M. Payrandeau (cf, p. 286). It appears that M. Savigny was unable — owing to illness — to complete his work, but as Government required its publication, the Minister of the Interior assigned the office of editor to M. Audouin, Savigny's former pupil. Sonini's "Travels in Upper and Lower Egypt," 1799, can hardly be called an ornithological book, though a great many notes on birds are scattered through his three volumes. The accuracy of some of his remarks, as that on the flight of the Pelican, I can fully confirm ; at the same time I think he is mistaken in the names of several birds ; for instance, he mentions both the Titmouse and the Wood- pecker, two genera which have never professed even to come to Egypt. He informs us that the quantity of Quails at Alexandria (on their migration) is really past belief. Four were to be had at the market for three farthings. " The crews of merchant ships were fed upon them ; and there existed at the consul's office at Alexandria several com- SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 12/ plaints preferred by mariners against their captains, for giving them nothing but Quails to eat" (III., p. 321). Ex- traordinary as this may appear, I can quite believe it from what I have seen and heard.* He gives a lengthy account of the habits of the Egyptian Dove, and mentions two instances of nests on window-sills where he was lodging. In more than one place also he mentions the abundance of the White Wagtail. At p. 202 of Vol. II. he remarks — "There is no kind of bird more plentiful in Egypt. * * * Some of them came into the vessel's cabin during our voyage upon the Nile, and would feed close by our sides with engaging security." At p. 136 of Vol. II., he has rather an interesting note on the Ostrich. I could not hear that these birds are ever to be found in Egypt now, though I believe that fresh eggs are to be sometimes bought at Assouan. Their plumes are often brought there, together with native spears, ebony clubs, and monkey skins, from the Soudan. It only remains for me to acknowledge the special civility of M. Eugene Filliponi of Damietta, who has enriched this volume by a list of all the Arab names of birds he has been able to collect in that neighbourhood. I beg to acknow- ledge myself greatly indebted to him for his courtesy in furnishing this very valuable contribution. Mr. T. B. Hughes had collected twenty-four such names, and I had also collected a few, but I have determined to give the preference to M. Filliponi's names in every case. I have added a few which he omitted, viz., the Nightingale, English Turtle Dove, Kingfisher, (and Bat) on Mr. Hughes' authority ; and the Neophron Vulture, Little Owl, Egyptian Turtle • At p. 510 of Sir T, F. Buxton's Memoirs I find the following : — "Sir Thomas Cullum told me that on the 2nd of May, two or three years ago, he found upon enquiry that duty had been paid on 80,000 Quails. Pretty well for one day." This was in Italy, about the year 1837. 128 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Dove, Sandgrouse, and Wild Goose, on my own ; and in a few cases where our names differed considerably from his, I have thought well to give both. Any discrepancy is easily accounted for by the difference in dialect between Upper Egypt and the Delta. Let me say also that my best thanks are due to Mr. T. B. Hughes for the loan of his large collection, and also to the Hon. E. Russell and Mr. S. C. Buxton for their assistance. I have also to thank Captain Shelley for kindly giving me access to his Egyptian skins, and Mr. E. C. Taylor for a like civility. ■Jf L Sociable Vulture, Vultur mibiais. On the 2 1st of April, one of the largest Vultures I ever saw was killed in the act of flying from a carcass on the river near Bellianeh. This immense brute measured 109 inches from tip to tip, and looked, when hung up on the boom to dry, larger even than a Griffon. It was 39 inches long; the wing from carpus 30; the tarsus 5^ ; weight \^\ lbs. The head was bare, and of a purplish flesh colour. The skin of the crown white ; round the ear a few feathers ; the chin coated with black bristles pointing backwards ; mouth purple ; eye hazel ; legs and cere bluish. No feathers on the sides and thighs ; these parts were entirely covered with down. It is possible that this species may be much commoner than is supposed in Egypt. 2. Cinereous Vulture, Vultur mojiac/ms (Linn.). We saw this species not unfrequently ; at least some of the Vultures were so very dark that I set them down as this species. I believe Von Heuglin found it rarer than the Sociable Vulture ( Vultur nubicus), from which it is not easily distinguishable at a distance. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 29 3. Griffon Vulture, Gyps fnlvus (Gmel.). This again is another splendid Vulture, which is con- sidered to be resident ; a common bird, and generally distributed, barring the Delta, where we did not see any. Those who are only acquainted with northern Europe can form no conception of how big Vultures look when their wings are spread, or what a grand spectacle a score or so present sailing on motionless pinions in the neighbourhood of their eyrie, which is generally on some steep mountain side. There was a place of the kind opposite Minieh, where some two score had located themselves on the ledges of the steep cliff on the east bank. They were too far for our guns, and they knew it, though I could have got them if I had used a poisoned sheep. I never had the luck to catch one gorged — an event which surely cannot be so common as some authors would have us believe ; but at Girgeh a brace of them were inspecting the carcase of the very largest fish I ever saw, and I fancy they meant to have a good " tuck in " when we were gone. I never myself met with any recognition of the name Nissr, by which this species is known among the Arabs in some countries. 4. Egyptian Vulture, Neophron percnoptems (Linn.). (Hasselquist, 14) ; " Rackham."* These are unsavoury birds, but useful as scavengers. That is their foul office, and where there is any offal there they congregate. The lists I have consulted do not say they are less common in Lower Egypt than in Upper, yet we only saw one or two north of Cairo. In that city of picturesque dirt and eastern filthiness they were common enough, and it was the only place where old and young '' The Arabic names are given in inverted commas. K 130 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. seemed to be in equal numbers. In Upper Egypt the former greatly preponderated. Hasselquist notices their part in Nature's scheme as follows : — " The inhabitants of Egypt cannot be enough thankful to Provi- dence for this bird. All the places round Cairo are filled with the dead bodies of asses and camels ; and thousands of these birds fly about and devour the carcases before they putrefy, and fill the air with noxious exhalations" (I.e.). That the celerity with which Vultures find dead animals is marvellous, is true ; but I am of opinion that in nearly every case they are guided by their acute vision. I never could understand how they managed to soil their backs, for that part never was pure white, which I presume it ought to be naturally. 5. Short-toed Eagle, Circaetus gallims (Gm.). I had long had a keen wish to get this large Eagle, and as I was returning from Quail shooting, on the 20th of March, at Erment, I was lucky enough to make a very long shot at one with a wire cartridge. Perhaps it was the same which had waited over us in the lentils, so high up that it looked like a Goshawk, with every bar perceptible in that clear atmosphere. I have no doubt it had killed the four snakes which we found lying together in a field close by. For what reason it brought them together, or whether it left them to watch us, I cannot divine. It seemed to take a great interest in our Quail-shooting, but I never saw it attempt to catch one. It proved to be a female, as I ex- pected from its large size, for it measured twenty-six inches in length, and five feet seven inches in expanse. Its stomach only contained a frog. Legs, stone-colour ; weight, 3f lbs. ; eye, light yellow, but very bright ; pupil small ; head dis- proportionately large. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. I31 The Short-toed Eagle is not uncommon nor very shy, and I rather wonder that we never succeeded in kiUing another. Shots were obtained at Gou-El-Kebeer and Edfou, but were not so successful as they ought to have been ; but I would particularise these as good places for them. Ac- cording to Von Heuglin it is mainly a spring and autumn migrant ; but I imagine it would be more correct to speak of it as a resident, whose numbers are increased at those seasons. I am quite confident that I saw some at the Faioum* in June, and if I did not observe it in winter, others have done so. ■X-6. BONELLIS' Eagle, Nisaetus fasciatics (Vieill.). A fine female was shot on the 22nd of April at Bellianah. It had been chasing pigeons, and was resting on a sand bank. Weight 4^ lbs. Length 28 inches; expanse 60 inches. Eye, light hazel ; legs and cere, yellow ; beak, horn- blue. It was the only specimen which we met with in our travels. Canon Tristram has a specimen which was killed somewhere above Cairo by Mr. Meddlycott. 7. Booted Eagle, Aquila pennata (Gm.). On the 22nd of April — the same day we got Bonellis' Eagle — two Booted Eagles were shot out of palm trees, where they were apparently taking a nap after a meal upon rats. On the 19th of May another was shot, and several seen near Benisuef. Weight of a male i| lbs. Length 18 inches; expanse 13 inches. This is a small insignificant bird for an Eagle. ** The Faioum and Birket El Kairoun are the same place ; a lake near Cairo in the fertile province of Faioum. 132 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 8. Greater Spotted Eagle, Aquila clanga (Pallas) ; Aquila vittata (Hodgson); A. ncevia, part. We did not see on an average more than one or two a week, and none that I remember after April. Most writers agree that it is only a winter visitant. A pair frequented the lake at Rackaba, in company with numerous Marsh Harriers. On the 29th of January, Monsieur Filliponi and I were poled about among the reeds which fringe that lake, and he made a very long shot at one of them and brought it down. It was only winged, and we tried killing it with eati-dc-luce, but I do not recommend either this or ammonia; though prussic acid might do. I believe simple pressure on the breast with the thumbs, or with the knee in case of large specimens, is the speediest way of killing wounded birds. Mr. S. Bligh says a good plan is to tightly press the thumb on the trachea just by the roots of the tongue. (See, Ceylon Branch of R. A. Soc, trans.) It had a beautiful gloss, which I have noticed upon the plumage of other specimens : also on the Osprey shot at Mershoom, v/hich was a freshly-moulted female. This Eagle was in the immature spotted plumage. 9. Imperial Eagle, Aquila mogilnik (Gmel). In the Institute at Alexandria there is a dust-covered and most dilapidated Eagle, which I believe is of this species. That some of the Eagles we saw in the Delta were also the Imperial I have no doubt; but they are not much addicted to the society of man, and we did not get a chance of form- ing a near acquaintance with any of them. 10. Osprey, Pandion halicBetus (Linn.). " Mansouri " i.e. Conqueror. We frequently saw Ospreys on the sand banks — single birds, often in the vicinity of Herons or Gulls. Rifle shots SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 33 were occasionally tried at them, but the Delta is too populous to admit of much rifle practice. However, a fine specimen was shot with the gun at Mershoom. Going up the Nile we saw eighteen in two days, but very few in coming down again. At Gebel-Abou-Foeder a pair seemed to have a nest in the clifis. My father has shown me that, according to Dr. Bree's translations from Von Heuglin, it nests in the Gulf of Suez in February and April. It may be, therefore, that some remain the summer on the Nile, but I did not see any, to identify them, after the ist of April. The head of this species and the Spotted Eagle are very hard to pass in skinning. II. Lanner Falcon, Falco lanarius, Linn.; F. feldeggii, Schleg. I cannot say for certain if the Lanner was seen by us below Cairo, but I identified it to my satisfaction at the Pyramids. By the second of those mighty memorials of a bygone age, my guide sprung a Quail, and an unmistakable Lanner instantly dashed off in pursuit of it. The quarry settled and the Falcon "waited on," but when I went up to flush it again for her, she flew on to the face of the Great Pyramid, but I had seen her light head, and albeit Pere- grines were at that time (February i6th) still plentiful, I was satisfied. No doubt in Egypt, as in other countries, the Arab sheiks have trained their Lanners to the noble sport of falconry, and their high courage has enabled them to be used for larger game than their natural instincts would lead them to attack. I imagine that their usual natural food is the Quail when it arrives, I have sometimes, when shooting them, had a Lanner dash past me like a flash of lightning, which I had myself seen an instant before a mere speck in the sky. Yet from that great height he had seen that one of the Quails 134 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. was wounded, and had come down like a rocket on the spent quarry, which only just escapes by dropping into the lentils. They are not a vindictive bird, though they occasionally get wrathful with a trespasser near their nest. I once saw a pair go at an Elanns and buffet him, in a wide open plain where there was no apparent excuse for such conduct. In the rocky gorge which leads to the tombs of the kings, the only birds we saw were a pair of Lanners, hermits in that unutterable solitude. When those renowned sepulchres held the monarchs for whom they were made and painted, to kill a Lanner was a crime which could only be atoned for by death ; but although on the present occasion Mr. T. B. Hughes and I had no compunction, the birds evidently remembered their sacred character and refused to come within range. On an island in Birket-El-Kairoun I found the only nest which was accessible on a projecting rock. Never having had much experience in Falcons' nests, I was not a little amused at the collection of rags and bones. It only wanted a few ropes and bottles to be a regular marine store-shop. Clearly the prosperous couple had decided, when the duties of incubation were over, to convert it into a salon a manger. Not to mention the various rags, bones, and remains of aquatic birds, there were about two score fish, which, before they were picked, weighed I should say in the aggregate 25 lbs., of the same species I believe as I had seen basking on the water, I had no idea before that they were piscivor- ous. There was no mistake about the ownership of the nest, for I shot one of the Falcons, nor was this an act of cruelty, for they only had one &gg, and that was empty and broken. It seemed to agree fairly with the figure in the "Ibis" (1864, p. 183, fig. i). I see from my note-book that in Upper Egypt I also shot four. I cannot detail the cir- cumstances attending the capture of each, but I have a SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 35 remark to offer about the plumage of an immature female, killed on the 22nd of April at Bellianeh. In colour it was a dark brown above ; and below was marked with broad longitudinal streaks of the same, moreover had none of the luteous crown, except one or two very small feathers. It was remarkably small for a hen bird, measuring only i6| inches long, tarsus 2, wing I2|. We all hoped it might turn out to be a Barbary Falcon, but my father has carefully examined and identified it. There is a match for it in the Norwich Museum ; and I saw another, only rather larger, but in similar dark plumage, in the great hall at Karnak ; so for the present it stands as a Lanner. The adult Lanners found in Egypt sometimes vary con- siderably from the ordinary type, by presenting a deeper tone of coloration especially on the upper parts, thus ap- proaching the darker race which is found in Nubia and Abyssinia, and which by some naturalists has been treated as specifically distinct, under the name of F. tanyptenis. In the case of an adult pair, shot by my companion and myself whilst flying together from the same tree, on the 1 2th of April, in the neighbourhood of Esne, the female was of the ordinary type of coloration, whilst the male was much darker on all the upper surface except the tail ; the head, nape, and upper interscapulary feathers, being even quite as deeply coloured as in the adult of F. tanyptenis. Saker Falcon, Falco saker, Schlegel. I believe this Falcon was also seen, but as no specimen was shot, I could not identify it with certainty. My father thinks that Von Heuglin may have con- founded Falco babyloniciis, Gurney, which he calls "tolerably common," with the rufous phase of F. barbarus. 136 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 12. Peregrine Falcon, Falco peregriims, Gmel. Our first Peregrine caused great excitement on board. It was a gorged bird, sleeping ofif a meal of Wild Duck on the sands. My companions were quite sure it was a Greek Partridge, a species we had seen a day or two before in Alexandria, and really it was not easy at a distance to say what it was. The Diabeyha was stopped, and " m.y noble, generous Falcon " circumvented and slain, when she proved to have inside her not only the Duck, but also some grain. Duck and green peas would have been more proper, but Ducks and grain were her fare on this occasion ; and the explanation probably was, that the former had eaten the latter before being herself eaten by the bird of prey.* It was not so curious as finding a Partridge's &'g^ in a Pere- grine's nest, or a rat's head in a Woodpigeon's. Our next one was shot in the act of carrying off a Pewit, and the next had been making a heavy repast on locusts, which did not surprise me, for I believe it is ordained that almost all animals should help in keeping down the numbers of this destructive pest, which in times of a great visitation (fortunately rare) will come to a district in such appalling clouds as to threaten absolute ruin to the poor fellaJieen. This Falcon would seem to be commoner than the Lanner in winter. Old " Tiercels " are said to be rare. 13. Hobby, Fako sublmtco, Linn. I was shown an adult at M. Filliponi's, killed near Damietta last September, which was the only one we came across. "'In the autumn of 187 1, 1 was shown a Peregrine at the birdstuffer's at Lydd which had overgorged itself, and been stoned. What its last heavy repast may have been was not known, but a hare was found near the spot with one of its eyes gouged out. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 37 14. Western Red-legged Falcon, Falco vespertiuus Linn. I purchased an immature one at Damietta. 15. Merlin, Falco cesaloii, Tunstal, Middle Egypt appears to be the habitat of the Merlin, but I did not find it so abundant as some have done. All that we saw were, I believe, cocks, which agrees with former observations, 16. Kestrel, Tinnnncnlus alaiidarius (G. R. Gray) ; " Sakre ahmar balad." In a family so largely represented as the Accipitres, the familiar English Kestrel was by far the commonest, and so tame were they, in the Delta especially, that I have often seen stones thrown at them before they would fly away. They were less common and decidedly shyer in Upper Egypt, probably because they are more exposed there to the incursions of the gun-carrying tourist. I think that in North Africa Hawks go to nest earlier than with us. Already in January the Kestrels were paired, and some of them nesting, for the most part choosing crude brick walls and palm trees. One of my companions saw one feeding its young on the 13th of January at the Barrage, that beautiful bridge which spans the Nile at its bifurcation. They are plucky birds, these Egyptian Kestrels. Once I winged a Senegal Dove, and almost before it touched the earth, a hovering and hungry Kestrel bound to it, nor did he at once give up possession to the lad who went for it. A Sparrow-Hawk served me the same trick one day, but it is more remarkable with a Kestrel. It is said that Egyptian Kestrels are smaller than English ; 138 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. at any rate I think they are bolder. I have seen one swoop at a Booted Eagle, and I have also seen one feather a Hooded Crow which ventured too near its nest. I 6b. Lesser Kestrel, Falco ccnchris (Cuv.) On the 13th of April, as we were riding across the wide treeless plain of the Memnonium, we saw a great many Kestrels. They were almost too scattered to term a flock : the game they were after was large insects. On shooting a pair I found to my delight that they were the Lesser Kestrel, which I had been long looking out for. They really had not seemed any smaller than the Common Kestrel, which in appearance and flight they exactly re- semble. This flock consisted of both sexes ; one I shot was a hen (cf Ibis, 1864, p. 236), the other was a cock, which still retained immature plumage on the wings. 17. Sparrow Hawk, Accipiter nisus (Linn.). Very common, and I am surprised that it has not an Arab name, but the natives of the land of Ham are "lum- pers," not "splitters." I need not recapitulate the habits of so well known a bird. There are many stories extant of its audacity, to which the following is now to be added. I was sitting on the deck of our Nile boat, or Diabeyha as it is called, with my friends, discussing the fragrant Cerani, when a terror-stricken Sparrow flew under the divan almost between my legs, and behind him came the pursuer in the shape of a mettlesome little cock Sparrow-Hawk. He was baffled of his prey this time, and before we could rise from our seats he had made good his escape, and the Sparrow, perceiving that the coast was clear, flew away also, but still in evident trepidation. I expected to see the chase re- newed, but the Hawk had clearly had a fright, and the SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 39 Sparrow had had quite enough of it. A few days after- wards a pair had the impudence to settle on the sails.* I examined every specimen which was shot for the Short- toed Sparrow-Hawk, but we did not detect one. 18. Black-winged Kite, Elamis cccndeus (Desfontaines) ; " Sakre Abiad," i.e. White Hawk. These are very pretty Hawks, and fairly common. I have seen them hovering over a field just like a Kestrel, but a garden with good large trees is their favourite resort. They are generally to be seen in pairs. They were certainly commonest in Middle Egypt ; none were seen, that I know of, south of Keneh. One shot on the nth of May con- tained the remains of a small bird. 19. Yellow-billed Kite, Milvus parasiticus (Daudin) ; " Hiddayer." No village in Egypt would be complete without its Hiddayer. I think this Arabic name, which is in universal use there, is as strong evidence as you could well have that the Hebrew words ddAJi, dayydh, and ayydh, in the Old Testament, should be translated Kite. In this hot and sultry country, Kites perform the part of scavengers, and most useful are they in clearing away the carcass and the offal which the natives are too lazy to bury, and the putrid stench of which would be quite sufficient to breed a pesti- lence in hot weather. When the Diabeyha has been at anchor, and we have been skinning, I have seen them pass and repass within a few feet, attracted by the tempting * In Durham the Sparrow-Hawk is still common, and holds its own in spite of gamekeepers. At the mouth of the River Tees, at the fall of the year, I have seen many cock Sparrowhawks skimming over the fields, but it was a very rare thing to observe a hen. I40 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, body of some bird which had been flayed and thrown out of the window. The audacity of the Kites of India is pro- verbial ; they are as bold in Egypt, and I do not doubt many stories might easily be collected about them, such as their snatching meat out of the poor people's hands. One actually brushed the cheek of Mr. Russell in swooping at a large Woiran* which the steersman had been skin- ning ; but I cannot say I ever heard of their molesting young Pigeons, as described by Dr. Adams (Ibis, 1864, p. 10). The Lanner will do so, and, indeed, goes by the name of Pigeon-Hawk in some parts. When our boom was lowered to go down stream, we found a lizard sticking to the top, which some Kite had left half-eaten. The top of a mast is rather a favourite perch, and was so in old times probably, for Wilkinson represents a boat with fish hanging out to dry, and on the mast a Kite (No. 333). He remarks that the manner in which it shrieks while wait- ing for the entrails of the fish is very characteristically shown in the original. I do not doubt that fishes, dead or alive, fresh or stale, would be acceptable to any Egyptian Kite ; but in the mountains, where I always noticed that they were cleaner, they certainly prey largely on reptiles. I have occasionally seen them flying about with such things as snakes and lizards in their talons. I have observed them two or three times, whilst flying, to deliver some food from the foot to the mouth. My father was well aware of this habit, which he says is common to all the Kites, and has been noticed in the Lammergeyer of the Himalayas. I once saw a common Rook apparently do it. I was never tired of watching the graceful flight of the Hiddayer ; unclean as one knows it to be, there is something beautiful about its slow-sailing flight, with wide-spread tail, ** Monito)- niloticus. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYrT. I4I and pinions which seem to be almost without motion. It is the rudderhke tail which enables it to turn with such consummate ease. During the winter they were shy, and many a cartridge was expended on them in vain ; but as spring drew on and tourists went, they forgot their shyness and thought about making a nest. Indeed a few misguided birds take the trouble to nest twice or thrice, for the noise of their young bemg fed in the nest was heard in the Ezbekeeah Gardens* in January. Their nests, which by April are nearly as common as Crow's nests, are untidy fabrics, the chief part being sticks and rags, put together anything but neatly. They are generally in trees, sometimes in cliffs or on houses. One of the most accessible I saw was on the tombs of the Caliphs. Mr. E. C. Taylor took several on the second Pyramid. I never saw any very young birds : there were two in Shepheard's Hotel garden when we returned in May, which had left the nest and could fly. I must say, to give them credit for one cleanly habit, that I have seen them standing in the water and washing themselves. They are often on the sand banks, whether for fish or to digest their last meal, I do not know : I never saw one gorged, though I have seen their crops distended with offal. It is not very usual to see a great many to- gether. I remember noticing a big flock in a high wind at Minieh, and a still larger one of perhaps seventy on a sand- bank at Siout : what they were doing unless digesting I cannot guess ; they were not near together as if they had found carrion, but were sitting apart at intervals, lazy and quiet. But the largest congregation of all was at a place just outside Cairo, not far from the citadel ; here on the i8th of February, just after we had shot the bridge and Rhoda was opening into view, I beheld a surprising flock of Kites, and ° The public gardens in Cairo. (See ante.) 142 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. about a hundred Egyptian Vultures, in graceful soaring circles, wheeling far up in the blue vault of heaven. I sus- pect this may be "the square called Rohneli, below the castle, which is the place for executing capital offenders," mentioned by Hasselquist in his " Travels in the Levant, 1749 — 52," where he says these birds assemble with Egyptian Vultures every morning and evening to receive the alms of fresh meat, left them by the legacies of wealthy great men, or at any rate that the two places are near one another. A bird of this species has lived twenty years in my father's possession, and is now (Christmas day, 1875) in good health. It was sent from Sierra Leone. 20. Black Kite, Mihnis migrans (Bodd.). I cannot have much doubt that we saw this bird, perhaps very often, yet I do not feel sure. There is much conflicting evidence about it, but at any rate I can say positively, that the Yellow-billed Kite is much the commoner of the two species. 21. Common Buzzard, Bnteo vulgaris, Leach. A very dusty specimen in a birdstufifer's at Alexandria, which I have not much hesitation in referring to this species. I am the more disposed to think so, as my father has lately obtained a specimen from M. Boucard, which was killed at Zagazig. 22. Desert Buzzard, Bnteo desertornm (Daudin). In "The Ibis" for 1871, Captain Shelley hazarded a guess that this Hawk would be found in Egypt. I am now able to report two authentic cases. The first was shot by SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. I43 me on the 15th of May at Massara, and dug its claws into my hand in a way I shall not forget. The second was killed three days afterwards at Bibbeh. Several others were seen. My father has examined the birds, and has compared one of them with the series of Btitco fa^ox in the Norwich Museum. He thinks it can always be distinguished from that species by its smaller size. The one I shot was 18 inches long; the wing 14; the tarsus 2.7. The iris was dull yellow. In the other specimen it was, according to a note by Mr. Hughes, bluish black. On this point see some re- marks by my father in Bree's "Birds of Europe" (I., p. 99). The first bird was much the more rufous of the two; the thighs in particular were very red. The middle tail feathers were so abraded that little was left but the shaft. There was already in the Norwich Museum a specimen from Rosetta, received from M. Panzudaki of Paris.* 23. Long-legged Buzzard, Butco ferox (S. G. Gmelin) ; " Garrah," i.e. one that wounds. The year 1875 was not favourable for the observation of this species. We certainly did not see many, and shot none. It is said that they are sometimes common. ■)f 24. Honey Buzzard, Pemis apivorics (Linn.). A fine adult male was shot by Mr. Russell in a grove at Bibbeh, where it may have been nesting. May 20th. Length 22 inches ; expanse 43. I believe this is the first authentic instance of its occurrence in Egypt. ® Some time ago Mr. Gould lent me a specimen killed at Everley in Wiltshire in 1864. From a comparison with nine skins sent up from the Norwich Museum, my father was quite satisfied of its being correctly named. 144 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 25. Marsh-Harrier, Circus ceruginosus (Linn.) The Marsh-Harrier was the most numerous Hawk near Damietta, the Kestrel always excepted. On the plain of Gebel Silsilis they were still commoner, and we shot old and young in about equal proportions. They are not at all shy, but require large shot to bring them down. They fly at no great altitude, and often alight on the ground, but not on trees I believe. Some monstrous ticks had fastened on the face of one which was shot. I have several times ob- served them on sand banks. None of the females had the grey on the wings and tail peculiar to the adult male. 26. Hen-Harrier, Circus cyaneus (Linn.) I cannot say anything about the distribution of this. Hawk; at the same time I have not the least doubt but that we saw it* 27. Swainson's Harrier, Circus macrurus (S. G. Gmelin). I seldom went out without seeing a Swainson's Harrier or two beating low over the fields, yet we only shot three. Females were commoner than adult males, but not very much so. In England Harriers are not considered to perch upon trees,t but I have seen this species do so several times in Egypt. *' I have seen Hen-Harriers in Durham, and also the Marsh-Harrier, quartering the meadows at Teesmouth hke a well-trained dog, but both are decidedly rare there. t In Hunt's "British Ornithology" there is mention of a Marsh Harrier's nest upon a tree, on the authority of Archdeacon Glover of Southrepps, and it would appear that this is not unique, (cf. Yarrell, B.B., fourth edition, I., 130.) SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. T45 •X-28. Montagu's Harrier, Cvrus cincracms (Mont.). Captain Shelley mentions at p. 324 of his work, being "very sceptical of Circus cincraceiis Xxz.Vxw^ ever been met with in Egypt." It is satisfactory to have now set this point at rest, for whatever difference of opinion there may be about the young birds, there can be no mistake about the adult male, and we shot two fine old cocks at Gebel Silsilis on the 3rd of May. 29. Egyptian Eagle- Owl, Bubo ascalaphus, Sav. ; "Buma hamra bi urun." Although I visited Great Karnac by the pale moonlight, and lay in ambush in the mountains behind the Meni- nonium, I never got a sight of this fine Owl at Thebes ; but about half way up the second Pyramid I was shown a well white-washed eyrie. After a great deal of poking we ejected the Owl, and he flew swiftly out and round to the other side. I sent a man after him who flushed him again, and he flew to the Great Pyramid, but I could not get him. No doubt it was from one or other of the Pyramids that two pairs of young birds which I saw at Cairo came. In one pair there was a conspicuous difference in size, which I have noticed to be the case in the young of the Barn Owl. The same thing has been recorded of the Bittern and the Yellow-billed Cuckoo (vide Audubon). It holds good also* of Montagu's Harrier, the Kestrel, and other birds of prey. One pair belonged to M. Marco, taxidermist and dragoman, who also had an old one. He had been in the Soudan. In Upper Egypt or Nubia he told me he had come across an Owl larger and darker than Bubo ascalaphiis. Possibly he referred to HuJma cinercus, of which there is a Nubian example in the Museum at Norwich, though that is decidedly not larger, but on the contrary smaller. It may however L 146 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. have been the larger species, Huhua lacteiis. A fine Eagle- Owl was shot while we were in Egypt by the Duke of Connaught's party. 30. Short-eared Owl, Asio accipitrinus (Pall.) ; Otus brachyotiis (Forster). I saw skins to sell at Alexandria and Damietta. Mr. Allen says it comes in April (Ibis, 1864, p. 236). Can this be a misprint } 31. Barn Owl, Strix flammea, Linn., (Hasselquist, 196); " Buma Beda." During the day they generally repose in the crown of a palm, or in the recesses of cliffs. Once north, and repeatedly south of Cairo, we met with this Owl. I found one in the sanctuary, or adytum of Edfou, and all my efforts could not dislodge him ; but the place where we saw most of them was in the lofty cliffs of Gebel-Abou-Foeder. Here I counted as many as three pairs in an afternoon's row. They had all chosen lower holes than the Egyptian Geese which were nesting in the same locality, seeming, like the numerous Pigeons, not to go above high water-mark. On the 27th May I saw one in the Ezbekeiah garden at Cairo.* 32. Southern Little Owl or Athenian Owl, Carine glaux (Savigny) ; "Booma." This is a comical little bird, and very common in every village. In some parts there is not a clump of Palm tree '" From Mr. Combin, the keeper of the Cromer Hghthouse, I learn that Barn Owls are attracted by the moths which come in large num- bers to the lantern. He has seen them catch them. 1 believe this fine light, visible at twenty-seven miles' distance, has been the death of many a rarity. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 47 that does not hold its pair, and the Nabuk, the Cypress, and all the other trees which afford shade and shelter, are acceptable to them. Again, they are equally at home on the flat roofs of the mud hovels, or down the inside of the " shadoofs ; " or if there are any dismantled mills or caverns, there you will see the " Booma " bobbing to his own music and turning his head round to get a look at you. They certainly pair early, and are more diurnal than most Owls for I have seen them about and on the feed at noonday. I have marked one rise into the air some thirty feet, catch an insect — apparently a locust — and return to his perch on a Sont tree. 33. Roller, Coracias garrula, Linn.; "Zeturney." No one who has not seen a Roller can form an idea of its exceeding beauty. Fortunately for them, they do not arrive in Egypt until long after the majority of the travellers have left. The first was seen on the 9th of April, though it was half a field off us its colours showed out brilliantly ; and it was not until the 22nd that we saw a second. They never became at all common. Indeed I must consider them much rarer than the Golden Oriole. Food, small frogs, etc. 34, Blue-cheeked Beeeater, Merops cegyptins, Forsk ; M. siiperciliosiLS (Ibis, 1871, p. 75). This handsome species was seen on the 29th of March. Flocks of a score or so were going north, and we often heard their clear note before we could see them. A week later and the Common Beeeater began to come in great numbers, when the Blue-cheeked totally disappeared ; but in May we again found a io^N pairs settled apparently for the summer. At the Faioum there were a good many 148 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. along the Bar-El-Wady, doubtless nesting in its steep mould banks. A hen bird, shot on the loth of May, was of a very re- markable blue tint. If it had not been paired with a cock of the ordinary colour, I should have set it down as a dis- tinct species. It is probably this variety of hue which has gained the Blue-cheeked Beeeater and the Little Green Beeeater so many cognomens. 35. Beeeater, Merops apiaster, Linn. First seen on the 19th of April, and soon became very common to the exclusion of its Blue-cheeked cousin. The last week of the month in particular, flocks were to be heard all day at a great height migrating. Their call re- sembles that of the Sandgrouse, and like those birds they are oftener heard than seen. Towards evening they fly lower, and at sunset they are one of the first birds to go to roost in large troops upon the Sont trees. The roof of the mouth is semi-transparent, as is the case with some other birds of large gape. The tongue is split into two or three points, and the beak is very sticky. The thighs are bare. They are very easy birds to skin, and we preserved a large number of the three sorts of Beeeaters. First arrivals were not so bright as some which were ob- tained later. Captain Shelley says the greater number do not remain to breed, and I only saw one in June. In some examples the centre tail feathers taper more than in others, A short time ago a consignment of a thousand arrived in England to make plumes !* * The first known British specimens of the Beeeater were shot in Norfolk in 1794. One of them was given by Mr. Thomas Talbot of Wymondham to Sir J. E. Smith, who after lending it to Mr. Lewin to take its portrait (B.B., 1 1, p. 28) and exhibiting it to the Linnean Society, gave it — according to the late Mr. Lombe's MS. — to Lord Stanley, and Lsuppose it is now in the Museum at Liverpool. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 149 ' 36. Little Green Beeeater, Merops viridis, Linn. (Hasselquist, 20, Corviis ccgyptins) ;* " Huader." Two days after leaving Cairo we fell in with this exquisite bird, the most tropical form we had seen ; and it continued very common as far as Assouan. The central tail feathers in the best one I brought home extend three inches beyond the others. 37. Black and White Kingfisher, Ce;y/e mdis (Linn.). (Hasselquist, 22) ; " Tayr betaa es samak." I should say this well-marked resident was infinitely commoner below Cairo than above it, though others may not have found it so, but it was commonest of all at the Faioum. There were several pairs always to be seen within a few hundred yards of our camp, and I spent hours watch- ing them. It is not necessary to re-describe the process of fishing, but I may mention that they were much more successful there than I ever saw them on the Nile. At Benhouk a Hooded Crow was seen to knock one into the river more than once. Nobody would think their feet adapted for a wire, but they sometimes use those of the telegraph as a perch. I have also seen one perch upon a tree^ On the 13th of April, Mr. Russell observed one chase a bat, probably in play. 38. Kingfisher, Alcedo ispida, Linn. The English Kingfisher was often to be seen in the Delta in January and February, but I doubt if it remains there durino- the summer. Sometimes one would be perched on » Hemprich and Ehrenberg refer Corvus CBgyptius to the Common Kingfisher. I50 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. some root, overhanging perhaps a ditch, from which eleva- tion it would dart off with a straight steady flight, its little back gleaming the while like an emerald. One day one of a pair was shot at and wounded. It fell into the water, and immediately its mate — undeterred by the presence of three people — attacked it in the most savage manner, and struck it furiously a number of times with its beak. It seems to be a law of nature that the strong should kill the weak, sickly, and wounded, among animals. My specimens have much whiter throats than British ones.* 39. Hoopoe, Upupa epops, Linn. ; U. major, Brehm. ; "Hidhid." Familiar denizen of the villages, the Hoopoe stalks about on every dung-hill, perches on the mud-walled houses, pries into the sakias,t and is seen on the fertile banks of the river. In the Delta, where they are everywhere common, I could have sometimes killed three at a shot; but like the Ziczac and many others, they become scarcer up the Nile. The gape in the young bird is quite as yellow as Gould makes it in the " Birds of Great Britain." In Upper Egypt the Arab name is Hud Hud; in the Delta, and in the province of Faioum it is Hid Hid. In Algeria I found this bird to be a migrant, but in Egypt which is several hundred miles further south, it is a resident. ** In the north of England a friend was fishing one day on the Cocker stream, when a Kingfisher settled on his rod. He was amazed and delighted at the mistake the bird had made, but of course it did not stay many seconds. The incident, though curious, is not unique. I have read of parallel cases two or three times. f Sakias are wells, and a description of them may be found in every book on Egypt. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 15I 40. Greater spotted Cuckoo, Coccystes glandarius (Linn.) This fine bird is common in Middle Egypt, and we had no difficulty in shooting as many specimens as we wanted. Old birds and young of the previous Spring were in about equal quantities. It was generally to be found singly on the Sont trees (Acacia nilotica), but I have also seen it perch on the Palm and the Cypress. Other writers say it is generally to be found in pairs. In these minor points observations of different naturalists must often differ. I have seen as many as five in the course of a short walk, yet they were barely near enough together to be called a flock. I have frequently heard it give a loud harsh chattering cry, and I suppose it utters "cuckoo," as a native boy applied that name to one I shot (cf Ibis, 1862, p. 357). Underneath the feathers there are a number of large hairs. The testes are small as in the Common Cuckoo, Small birds will sometimes mob it, but I never saw it meddled with by Hooded Crows, though I have seen it most suspiciously near their nests. 41. Common Cuckoo, Oicuhis canorus, Linn. April 7th, I shot one at Gebel Silsilis. May the roth several were seen in a garden belonging to the Viceroy at Minieh, and a female, still in the brown plumage, but with blue rump, was shot. It struck me that they were quite mute : they were evidently migrating. 42. Isabelline Goatsucker, Caprinmlgtis cegyptius, Licht; "Bakkak." With the other spring migrants came Goatsuckers. I always saw them flitting over the water or very near to it, 152 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. but though we tried two or three times to shoot them from the Diabeyha, we never got a specimen ; and I am undecided whether to set them all down as the IsabelHne Goatsucker or not. I was inclined at the time to think that some of them were the English one, which is larger. ■)f43. Common Swift, Cyselns apus, (Linn.). As it was a great point to establish this as Egyptian, I kept a sharp look-out among the thousands of pale Swifts, Near Gebel Silsilis, on the 29th of March, I had the great good fortune to see one and obtain it, but it was the only one we ever fell in with. 44. Pale Egyptian Swift, Cypselus pallidus, Shelley. First seen near the Barrage on the 14th of February. On the 26th, I shot one on the top of a mountain at the Massara stone quarries, but it was not until April that we really saw them in great numbers. It seems incredible that a portion of the hundreds of great flocks which were then pressing north should not go beyond Egypt. The mouth of one shot at Esne was crammed with small insects.* 45. Oriental Swallow, Hirundo savignii (Steph.) ; H. riocoiirii Audouin. " Hasfur El Genneh," i.e.. The Bird of Paradise. Is one of the most abundant native birds in the north of I^gypt. Numbers of them any day may be seen skimming *' The White-rumped or Galilean Swift is not an unlikely species to be found in Egypt. It is the Cypsehis affinis of Gray. Mr. Dresser states that it is non-migratory and very local. It has a white rump, and at first sight might be mistaken for a House Martin. SIX months' bird COLLFXTING in EGYPT. 1 53 noiselessl}', low over the pools in search of insects. Yet it is not common in Upper Egypt ; and when we were return- ing north from Assouan, we did not see many compared with the Chimney Swallow, which was then becoming very plentiful. In the beginning of May I noticed a great many very light -breasted ones on the telegraph wires at Minieh. They were no doubt all young Oriental Swallows, but the tone of colour was not darker than is sometimes seen in the Chimney Swallow. 46. Chimney Swallow, Hinmdo rustica, Linn. The first one shot was on the 4th of March, but these harbingers of spring did not become plentiful until some time after. I think the first large flight I saw was on the 20th of April. As there were still a good many when I left in June, I surmise that this species breeds in the country. The specimen shot on the 14th of March was a short-tailed bird with a brown head, like the one Captain Shelley shot on the 25th of February, which I have seen. But it is evidently a mistake to call either of them young birds, as the Swallows, when they leave England for the sunny south, have already blue heads. Messrs. Sharpe and Dresser have shown that the head becomes brown again while they are wintering in Africa. (P. Z. S., 1870, p. 244.) My specimen agrees with No. 4 of their series. 47. House Martin, Chelidon iirbica (Linn.) On the 3rd of April a few were seen at Silsilis, and one shot. I also saw it at least once in May, and once at the Faioum in June. 154 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 48. Sand Martin, Cotyle riparia (Linn.) ; C. littoralis (Hemp, and Ehr.) The first of the spring migrants. On the 21st of February they appeared in large flocks ; after that they became very common, and were daily to be seen by hundreds skimming over the water. On the 6th of March they had commenced nesting operations at Siout, but Canon Tristram seems to have found them breeding in February (Ibis, 1859, p. 27). Long after the 6th of March I saw large flocks which were restlessly pressing northwards, having evidently no fixed abode in Egypt. The three specimens which I brought home are lighter than English ones, and the pectoral band is much less strongly marked, besides which there is nearly half an inch difl'erence in the wing, which is longer than in the English bird. I suspect this is the bird referred to by Von Heuglin, but I cannot reconcile it with the description of Cotyle minor (Cab.) given by Mr. Sharpe (P. Z. S., 1870, p. 303). 49. Pale Crag Swallow, Cotyle obsokta (Cab.) Is probably a partial migrant. During April I sometimes observed them skimming over the crops as if they had just come from the south, whereas, when we first saw them, it was only in the mountains. They nest in comparatively accessible places, beneath the overhanging ledges of a cliff, in the Tombs of the Kings, in the Temple at Philoe, etc. ■^50. Crag Swallow, Cotyle ntpestris (Scop.). Mr. C. B. Cory showed me a Crag Swallow which he ob- tained at Girgeh on the i8th of January, which from its large size and dark coloration was I think Cot. rupestris. It had a much darker back than the specimens of C obsoleta SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 55 in his collection, and rather darker under tail-covcrts. At the same time some individuals of C. obsolcta are much darker than others, as remarked by Dr. Adams, and the pink tinge noticed by Mr. Smith ("Attractions of the Nile," 1 1, p. 247) varies much in Egyptian specimens. 51. Pallid Shrike, Laniiis latJiora, Sykes ; " Deknasch swrreti." I saw some, birds of the year, on the desert side of the Faioum, upon the tamarisk bushes; and just before leaving England, I was shown four or five at Mr. Cutter's shop, which had been sent to him from the Delta, but it certainly cannot be common. 52. Red-backed Shrike, Lanins collnrio, Linn. I bought a female of M. Piacentini, killed at Ramleh near Alexandria. 53. Woodchat, Laniits aHriai/atus,M.\x\\QY \ L. niloticus ; " Deknasch." First shot March 26th, and soon became common. Its actions are not sprightly. It is often seen alone on the top of a plant. Does not as a rule fly far, or perch high, 54. Masked Shrike, Lanins nubiciis, Lichtenstein, The Masked Shrike arrived at Minieh on the ist of March, and soon became extremely common. It varied much in intensity of colour, some of the earlier specimens being much blacker than later ones, I suppose these were more advanced in summer plumage. The sexual difference was certainly not sufficient to account for it. The Wood- 156 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. chat varies in the same way (cf. Yarrell, B. B., fourth edition, p. 219.) 55. Spotted Flycatcher, Mnsdcapa grisola, Linn. A scarce bird in Egypt. I got it first on the 22nd of April, and from time to time I saw single birds up to the second week in June. 56. White-collared Flycatcher, Muscicapa collaris Bechst. I shot a hen at the Memnonium on the 13th of April, which I refer to this species. 57. WlHTE-VENTED BULBUL, Pycuonotus avsiiioe (Licht.) Five seen at the Faioum, of which I shot two. The natives called them Bilbil, and said they ate apricots. There was an apricot tree close to where I shot them. One was seen near Medinet on a tall palm, singing. Hemprich and Ehrenberg obtained their first specimens in this pro- vince, therefore I cannot say we have extended its range, but the bird is really a Nubian species. I compared one of my specimens with one of their types in Captain Shelley's collection, marked " Dongola : " it was somewhat larger and rather whiter on the under parts than mine. 58. Fieldfare, Tnrd2is pilaris, Linn. I saw one at Mayer's shop at Alexandria, no doubt the same seen by Captain Shelley. 59. Song-Thrush, Turdiis infisicus, Linn. ; T. planiceps, Hemp. & Ehr. ; " Chahrur." Two were shot in the Delta. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 57 60. Blackbird, Turdus mcrula, Linn. I insert this with some doubt : it was seen by a friend on the 23rd of January. I also saw a couple in cages. Captain Shelley says it comes to Egypt.* 61. Golden Oriole, Oriolus ga/bula, Linn.; "Sufri." This is about the last of the migratory Passercs to arrive. The first seen were old males ; then several young males and females. They prefer the thicker foliaged trees, as has been observed, and in spite of their bright colours are not very easy to see when sitting. Only once did I hear the flute -like note of the Oriole, and it appears to me that many of the spring visitors, which pass through Egypt in April, are not near enough to the time of their nesting to be in much song. The Cuckoos, for instance, were mute, but in England the first announcement of their advent is their familiar note. I believe very many birds pair en route, but I believe also that they reserve their song of exultation until they reach the scene of their labours for the summer. 62. Blue Thrush, Monticola cyana (Linn.) ; .? "Hamamet-Um Aby." If not got when first seen, it is of little use following the crafty Blue Thrush, for it will keep on ahead taking short flights, alluring one on, but always taking care to be just out of gunshot. We shot one in the great hall at Karnac, and saw another at Medinet-Haboo. It is not at all un- * In April, 1838, a pair of Blackbirds were put into my father's aviary, and niirabile dictu, these httle monsters, in about forty-eight hours, killed twenty-six small birds which were confined there with them. 158 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. common. I see my first specimen is marked the 26th of February ; I take it this is a resident species, but that its numbers are increased in spring and autumn. 63. Rock Thrush, Monticola saxatilis (Linn.) A spring and autumn visitor. I met with it on migration, and shot two cocks as we were going down the Nile ; the first in the Memnonium, the second at the village of Radam. Is said to be partial to graveyards ; but though I went to many, I never happened to meet with it there. In fact it is much scarcer than the Blue Thrush, of which I have seen as many as four in a day. We never met with an adult male of either. 64. Black-throated Chat, Saxkola melanoleuca (Giild.) The above seems to be the correct specific name, and S. enrymekvna, H. and E. ; and 5. zanthomelcena, H. and E., synonyms. The species is common in Upper Egypt. The first I shot was on March 17th, a very bright clear bird with black throat and wings. Then afterwards I shot four more without black throats (that part being of the same colour as the breast and belly,) which I set down as being the same, but Messrs. Dresser and E. C. Taylor have examined them, and decide that they are the young of the next species, S. stapaziua (L.) ; but as I am not satisfied about it, I shall keep them under the present heading. Probably they were birds bred during the winter season further south. 65. Eastern Black-eared Chat, Saxkola stapazina (Linn.) ; 5. ampJiileiica, Ehr, First seen on the loth of April; not so common as the Black-throated Chat. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 59 66. Menetries' Wheatear, Saxicola isahdlina (Rupp.) ; ■5". saltatrix, Menetr. Their flight and appearance is so far different from 5. cenantJie (the Common Wheatear) that one soon learns to distinguish them at a distance. From the Pyramids south- wards Menetries' Wheatear is common, but neither this nor any other Chat was seen by us in the Delta. 67. Common Wheatear, Saxicola ainanthe (Linn.). I think this is about the commonest of the Chats. A cock, shot on the 8th of March, had nearly completed its summer plumage on the back and wings. 6"^. Desert Chat, Saxicola deserti (Rupp.). Rather common after Girgeh. Several hens were seen, 5". JioinocJiroa, Tristram. These Chats can hardly be termed gregarious, as they are frequently seen alone, or with 6". ce/ianthc and S. viclaiiolcuca. A little bush, high enough to raise them a few feet above the plain, is always a favourite perch, or the banks of a field, or the mud walls of a garden, or in default of these a stone. They occasionally fly high, but seldom go far without alighting. On placing my series of five skins in a row with five which I shot in Algeria, I take note that the latter are several shades more rufous on the back, a point which appears to have escaped Mr. Dresser. 69. Mourning Chat, Saxicola leucomcla (Pall.). First seen at the Pyramids, and next at Massara. Probably to be found along the east bank as far as Minieh ; but we did not generally go on that side, as there were so l6o RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. many islands, and so little water for the Diabeyha. Higher up we did not see any. Among other things I believe they eat locusts, as one was seen to catch a locust by a friend (cf Dresser, B. of E., part XXVII.) Audouin and Savigny say that locusts are the principal food of ^. lencopyga. In a large series collected by Mr. Cory between Cairo and Thebes, I did not see any of the white-vented species (S. 7)10 rio, Ehr. ; 6". leiicomela, Jerdon). See Dresser, B. of E., part XXVII. 70. White-rumped Chat, Saxicola lencopyga, Brehm. The granite rocks between Assouan and Philce are a sure find for this species. It is true I did see some further north, and Mr. E. C. Taylor has obtained it at Cairo (Ibis, 1867, p. 59). I found white-headed ones (Saxicola Incomcla, Brehm.) rarer than black-headed, but mottled specimens were frequent. The perch they like is the top of the biggest granite rock they can find ; and though they have an objection to fields, they have none whatever to houses, on which I have seen them. 71. Stonechat, Saxicola riibicola (Linn.). We found the Stonechat common enough in the Delta, and I shot one as far south as Gebel Silsilis, but I never detected Hemprich's Stonechat. Captain Shelley gives as its distinguishing mark, "basal half of the tail white." This is not very apparent in a female in his collection shot at Esne. My Silsilis specimen is such a very light bird that I think it may possibly not be 5. nibicola. Through the kindness of Mr. Sharpe I compared it with a large series at the British Museum, but I was unable to determine it satis- factorily. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. l6l Ji. WrilNCHAT, Saxicola rubctra (Linn.). I had expected to meet witli this species during the winter in the Delta, but I only saw a few, males, towards the end of April in returning down the Nile. Jl- White-spotted Bluethroat, Raticilhc leucocyana (Brehm.). I shot one, which I have no doubt is a female, at Silsilis, on the 3rd of April, with an entirely white throat ; also a male at Samanhoud with only a little red. The red-spotted are decidedly much the commoner. 74. Red-spotted Bluethroat, Ruticilla succica (Linn.). This proved to be not near so common above Cairo as in the Delta, where I should say it is one of the commonest small birds in winter. In May and June I did not shoot one : it may be therefore that it leaves in summer. It is a bird that is almost always on the ground, and you may recognise them immediately by their tails, yet it is ex- ceedingly difficult to get a sight of the breast spot, as they invariably turn their backs upon you. 75. Redstart, Ruticilla phoeiiicimis (Linn.). This bird appears to be resident in small numbers. Captain Shelley hints as much, and Dr. Adams, whose notes refer to November and the two following months, says — " Not uncommon in Lower Egypt, and seen at Thebes " (Ibis, 1864, p. 18). Mr. Allen, however, who was a very correct observer, says it is not seen during the winter. This is a point for further investigation. We did not shoot one until the 31st of March, after which it was rather common. M 1 62 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. In this species, and in the case of most of the spring migrants, the males came first. The specimen I brought home is still in winter plumage as to the throat. ^^6. Black Redstart, RuHcilla titys (Scop.). This is a common bird in Europe, but it is scarce in Egypt. We however saw six, viz., four (upon trees) in the Delta and two at the Pyramids, and shot five of them. One of the males had no white on the wing. I have a Plymouth specimen without it — one of those alluded to by Mr, Gat- combe in Part V. of the fourth edition of Yarrell's " British Birds." With regard to the spelling of the word titys, see the Ann. of N. H. for 1872, p. 227. 'j'j. Nightingale, Danlias hiscinia (Linn.); Philomela Inscinia ; "Bulbul." We encountered some Nightingales at Thebes on the 13th of April, and shot two, midway between the Tombs of the Kings and the river. I think there were five in all, evidently a migratory party on their way to Europe. We were not regaled with their delightful notes. ■)f78. Great Sedge Warbler, AcroccpJialus amndinaceus (Linn.). I bought one at Alexandria, which I was informed had been got at Ramleh. 79. Clamorous Sedge Warbler, Acrocephalus stcntoreus (Ehr.). This is doubtless resident, as we got one at Damietta on the 23rd of January. I believe it had not been got before SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 63 in the winter. On the 29th I went out on purpose to shoot some, but though three were seen, their skulking habits rendered it impossible to get them. I have nothing to add to the admirable account given by Captain Shelley, beyond confirming the accuracy of his observations. ■^80. Reed Warbler, Acroccphalus strepcms (Vieillot) ; Salicaria anindinacca. On the 31st of March I shot two in a barley field at Silsilis, and the following week I saw a few more. We found it again in June among the reeds at Lake Faioum. 81. Savi's Warbler, Acroccphalus luscinoidcs (Savi). Single ones were seen between Siout and Girgeh in the luxuriant corn fields, but none were got. Captain Shelley's account of their habits agrees exactly with my observations. He only brought home one specimen (Ibis, 1871, p. 132). ^2. Sedge Warbler, Acroccphalus scJioenobcenus (Linn.) ; Salicaria pJiragniitis (Bech.). A few seen in the barley fields at Silsilis the first week in April, and others in ditches at Minieh the beginning of May. I did not shoot any there, but I brought home one example from Damietta. It is decidedly greyer than British ones, but this may be owing to winter plumage. 83. MOUSTACHED Warbler, Acroccphalus melanopogon (Tem.). I shot two or three at Damietta in the winter. It was met with nowhere else. 164 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 84. Rufous Warbler, Aedon galactodcs (Tern.). Was got first on the 24th of March, and shortly after- wards it had become common in the tobacco fields, etc. It is very fond of the lower branches of the Sont tree. I have seen one perch as high up as twenty feet, but that is ex- ceptional. It is generally to be seen upon the ground, strutting about with its tail cocked up. I found this species at the Faioum. In Dr. Bree's translation of Hcuglin, it is stated that Dr. Hartman observed one at the end of Novem- ber in Lower Egypt, but I cannot help suspecting that there may have been a mistake as to the species seen by him. •)f85. Orphean Warbler, Sylvia orphca (Tem.). I shot this in a low tree near Benisouef, February 24th. It appeared to be alone : I did not see another one, and indeed I should not expect it to be mated so early. 86. Black-headed Warbler, Sylvia melanocephala (Gm.). I hardly know if I am justified in including it, but every other writer seems to have found it common. Mr. E. C. Taylor even goes so far as to say that it is perhaps the most abundant Warbler in March (Ibis for 1867, p. 62). I believe that I saw it once or twice ; and as the probabilities are thus strongly in its favour, perhaps I should be least justified in omitting it. 87. Lesser Whitethroat, Sylvia aimica (Linn.). Probably this is a migrant which winters in Egypt further south than the Chiff-Chafif, and yet not so far as the majority" SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 65 of the Warblers. Whether any stop north of Thebes durhig the winter I cannot say. We first met with them on the 1st of March at Minieh, and as we progressed further south they seemed to get commoner every day, until at Assouan they literally swarmed. I shot one in which the feathers of the crown were stained by something it had been feeding upon, bright purple.* 88. Greater Wiiitethroat, Sylvia riifa (Bodd). I shot one on the 14th of April near Karnac. It is very much rarer than the Lesser Whitethroat, the above being the only specimen we obtained. 89. Long-tailed Drymceca, Drymceca gracilis (Rupp). I think this minute species is commonest at the Faioum, where I obtained the q^^, but it is not nearly so common on the Nile as the Fantail. I saw some on a little island on lake Menzaleh, which must have made a long flight to get there. It is very comical to see the young birds which have no tails. 90. Fantail Warbler, Cisticola schccnicola (Bp.). Resident and common in every field. When frightened it rises angrily into the air, going straight up with its jerk- ing flight, and uttering a loud note for so small a bird. I * The Lesser Whitethroat is decidedly common near London. In the beginning of September I have seen nearly fifty alive in a single shop, all of which had been caught in the vicinity of the metropolis. Further north it is rarer. In Durham, for instance, though some may be met with at Darlington, it is so uncommon at Teesmouth that I never shot but one there. 1 66 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. was never lucky enough to find a new nest: indeed, broods of young flyers were to be seen by the end of March. I saw the first that could fly on the 15 th. gi. Olivaceous Warbler, Hypolais pallida (Ehr.); Sylvia elcvica, auct. Found apparently over the whole country in summer. I shot one as we were coming down, at Minieh, about the 1st of March, and at the Faioum it was tolerably common. But it was most abundant at Assouan where there was hardly a camelthorn which was not swarming with these birds. Strange to say, Messrs. Adams, Taylor, and Smith appear not to have met with it. 92. Willow Warbler, Phylloscopus trochilus (Linn.). I am not sure whether this bird or the Chifif-Chaff is the commoner in the Delta, as I confess I did not accurately distinguish between them. There, I never could find any other sort of Warblers. As spring advanced it became rapidly scarcer, but two were shot and others seen, as late as the 27th of March at Philoe. 93. Chiff-Chaff, Phylloscopus collybita (Vieill.) ; Sylvia rufa, auct. In the Delta in winter the Chiff-Chafif frequents every bush, and is seldom seen singly. The smaller Warblers are all classed under the name of Abit Fisai. As I have al- ready stated, I owe most of the Arab names to the courtesy of M. Filliponi. It must be borne in mind that they were collected at Damietta, for I noticed that some of the com- mon ones were pronounced difterently in Upper Egypt. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 6/ 94. BoNELLi's Warbler, Phylloscopiis boncllil (Vieill), Naturally Dr. Adams failed to meet with this in the winter. It is a spring migrant. We first got it at the most southern point of our journey, Philoe, on the 27th of March. It may be best distinguished from the Willow Warbler by the underparts being white from the vent to the beak very faintly shaded, and by the lower part of the back being yellow. My specimens are rather lighter in the back than two Spanish ones in my collection, marked Vittoria and Gibraltar. Obs. Subalpine Warbler, Sylvia siibalplna, Bon. I thought I saw this once in April, but may easily have been mistaken. 95. Tree Pipit, Anthus trlvlalls (Linn.); A. arboreus (Bech). Captain Shelley says this bird arrives about March, but the first I shot was on the 23rd of April, after which I saw it plentifully in the groves. On being flushed from the ground, it would generally fly into an upper branch of the nearest tree. 96. Red-throated Pipit, AntJms cervlnus (Pall); A. cecllll, Aud. (Desc. de I'Egypt, p. 281, 1825); A. coutellli, Aud., .? I.e. This was extremely common, more particularly in the Delta, where you could hardly cross a field without seeing numbers of them. I shot some without the least red on the throat in January and February, others with only a I'68 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. little. Some naturalists consider that A. cervinus and A. pratensis are not to be distinguished in winter, but there is an appreciable difference in the colour of the back. I am not aware that I saw any Pipits at the Faioum. 97. Water Pipit, Antlius spipoktta (Linn.). I shot one at Mientanosara, near Ziftey, February 6th, and bought another in the market at Cairo. 98. Tawny Pipit, Anthus campestris (Linn.). Is rather common. Specimens shot out of a flock on March 12th were in winter plumage, while some shot before were in breeding plumage. I never saw it perch on trees, which the Anthus cervinus sometimes does. 99. White-winged Wagtail, Motacilla vidua, Sund. A specimen was obtained at the First Cataract, where everybody meets with it : but it appears that it is not very common even at this, its northern limit, or we should have shot more than one. 100. White Wagtail, Motacilla alba, Linn. ; " Abu fasada." This is by far the commonest bird in the Delta in the winter. And really they rather pall on you after a time, for one sees White Wagtails at every step, in every field, on every pathway, and frequently in company with Sand- pipers on the sand-banks — singly, in pairs, in family parties, in flocks of hundreds ; and sometimes they came upon the Diabeyha. A large flock will generally have some Red- SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 169 throated Pipits with it. But as spring draws on and one goes further south, both these birds become scarcer : indeed I do not remember seeing any White Wagtails in June. The last great flock I saw was on the 12th of March, — a countless stream migrating northwards. The next day- there was not one. Wilkinson says that Abou fasada means " Father of corruption." An explanation of this name more probable than that which he and Dr. Adams favour, has been given to me, viz., that the Wagtail seeks its food (small flies) among the droppings of the cattle. ■^lOL Grey Wagtail, Motacilla sidphurca (Bech). I got this the first day we went out. During January and the early part of February I saw at least six, all alone. I observed one pecking about and flirting its tail in a boat in the town of Mansourah, and more than a fortnight after- wards, when we were coming back, I saw it again in the same place. 102. Btidytes flava (Linn.), M. neglccia, Gould. 103. Budytcs viridis (Gmel.). In Egypt, at any rate, these two "species" cannot be kept apart ; but as the latest authorities still sunder them, of course I cannot do better than follow suit. They are very generally distributed, but specimens without the eye stripe are commoner than those with. At the end of April I saw large flocks of young birds of the year. They are very different in colour from the old ones, having on either side the throat a marked black band, and no yellow at ah. They were like Mr. Dresser's figure of the young B. flava (loc. cit). 170 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 104. Black-headed Yellow Wagtail, Budytes melanocephala, Savi. Of this trio of Wagtails the Black-headed was the com- monest in Upper Egypt, but we never saw it in the Delta. Some of the old males were magnificent. I have found it to consort with B.flava (with the eye stripe). I have seen both sorts running in and out among the goats, and picking up the insects behind them, and have killed them both at one shot. They are very fond of cattle, particularly on a field of grass, which is rather a rare thing in Egypt. Splendid old cocks were sometimes to be seen by melon fields, poppy fields, and corn fields, the contrast of black and yellow glistening as they ran about among the herbage, but without wagging their tails so much as English Wag- tails would have done ; or feeding in a wet ploughed field where it is amazing how they can be a minute without get- ting muddy. Where the river's edge was sand or mud I seldom saw them, and I never detected one perching in a tree. When we came upon a flock I considered that they were migrating. If there were forty or fifty birds, the num- ber of males would not exceed ten. 105. Chaffinch, Fringilla ccekbs, Linn. Three or four times I met with small flocks on the trees, in the Delta, clad in the same suit which we know them in at home. 106. Common Sparrow, Passer domesticus (L.) ; "Asfur dururi." Egyptian Sparrows are certainly less obtrusive than Eng- lish ones, but they show the same dependance on man, and SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. I/I are as much at home among the mud-built hovels of an Arab village as in the streets of Belgravia ; and their plum- age is brighter and cleaner. The roofs of the fellahin's huts, built of mud and straw, are a favourite resort for a flock to cluster upon, or small road-side bushes of the long-thorned tribe. About the middle of March they betake themselves to the fields of ripening corn, and I sometimes roused very large flocks indeed. Compared with English Sparrows, the crown of the head is decidedly greyer.* 107. Spanish Sparrow, Passer salicicola, Vieillot. As to the relative abundance of this species, my observa- tions lead me to agree with Captain Shelley (Ibis, 1871, p. 141), but certainly not with his predecessors. I only met with it in the Delta, and there it was far less numerous than the Common Sparrow (P. doniesticus, Linn.)t 108. Trumpeter Bullfinch, Erythrospiza githaginea (Licht.) ; PyrrJiula payraudxi, Audouin. First seen at Minieh, after which hardly a day passed but the clear tinkling note of the Trumpeter Bullfinch was heard, and on some occasions, as at Gebel Silsilis, very large flocks of them were seen. It was an old Algerian acquaintance, * I have more than once met with a variety of the (cock) Sparrow in England, having the throat and chest, which normally should be black, a rather bright chocolate brown. t Mr. Hazel states in " Naturalist" for 1853, p. 20., that a FrlngiUa Hispaniolensis was shot in some woods near Portsmouth, and after- wards placed in the Museum of the Philosophical Society. From enquiries I have made I believe that museum is now broken up, but the specimen may be at Haslar Hospital Museum. 172 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. there considered rather rare. It is almost always on the ground in the fields and not in the desert* 109. Linnet, Linota cannabina (Linn.). Flocks were sometimes seen in the Delta, and specimens shot. I had noted down " Cairo, February i8th," as the last appearance of this Finch ; but to my surprise, on the 21st of April I saw three near Girgeh, but unluckily failed to get one. The cock which I brought home, marked the 13th of February, has the red breast which in England characterises the breeding plumage. Obs. Buntings. We saw no Buntings at all. This seems singular. Canon Tristram obtained seven species in Palestine. no. BiFASClATED Lark, Certhilauda alaiidipes (Desfontaines) ; C. salvini, Tristr. I am rather surprised that Captain Shelley did not find this bird commoner. I saw it twice in the market at Cairo, and twice in our shooting excursions, viz., at Gow and Gebel Silsilis. At the latter place a flock of about a dozen ap- peared to have taken up their quarters on a little sandy waste about two miles from the river. Shooting a portion of them did not frighten the rest away, as I saw them every * Collectors naturally think that if they go a couple of miles inland beyond the beaten track of tourists they will find birds plentiful ; but in reality there is nothing beyond the limits of vegetation, a limit which varied greatly, but never in the largest plain we came to, extended be- yond a few miles from the banks of the Nile. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT, 1 73 time I went, running swiftly over the sand. Their legs are white, and their bleached appearance is most typical of the true desert. They varied somewhat in plumage. One was evidently a bird of the year — though so early — April 3rd, with crescent markings on the upper plumage like a young Cursorius gallicus, and no chest spots ; but what struck me most was the extraordinary difference in length of beak, and in size. The smallest measured 7g- in. ; the largest 9 inches. The bill of the smallest was broken, but the culmen of the next measured |, while the largest was li in. My two smallest specimens I attribute to C. salvini (Tristram), but as Mr. Dresser has united that with C. desertorum, (loc. cit.) I do the same. III. Skylark, Alauda arvensis, Linn.; A. intermedia, Swinhoe. Rather common in the Delta, where I shot one on the 13th of January. The last I saw was in the market at Cairo on the 17th of February. 112. Crested Lark, Alauda cristata, Linn.; "Umbar" or " Kunbarah." There is little to be said of this very common resident. They pair early, and I often found their eggs. On the 2nd of March I saw a young one already able to fly. By the time they can fly a little the crest is well developed : it differs from the crest of the adult in being tipped with white. I have seen Crested Larks panting with the heat when the thermometer stood at about 85°, and again when it was nearly 100°. Sonnini mentions having noticed them "in the middle of the day with their bills half open, and the 174 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. muscles of their breasts agitated, breathing with difficulty, as if they panted for respiration" {o. c, III., p. 199). I have had my attention drawn to the same thing in other and larsfer birds. 113. Short-toed Lark, Calandrella brachydactyla (Leisler), First met with on the 3rd of March, and for the next ten days it was very common in flocks, no doubt migrating northwards. After that there was a decided lull. Captain Shelley thinks it does not stay to breed (Ibis, 1871, p. 140.) I certainly saw none in June, and I do not think I saw any in May. It is very terrestrial and very gregarious, prefer- ring the plains, where its light-coloured plumage, assimilating to the colour of the surrounding ground, is a protection. None of my specimens have the crown at all rufous, 114. Tristram's Desert 'Lark, Am^nomanes fratcrculus, Tristr. Mr. Dresser unites this with A. dcserti (Licht.), but look- ing to my series of seven specimens, I think there surely is enough difference in colouring between them and A. deserti to earn them specific rank. I found them very common from Thebes to Assouan, generally in pairs. In one of my specimens the culmen is 0.6; in another 0.45. 115. Desert Lark, Ammomancs deserti (Licht); A. isabcllina (Tem.). I shot one at Feshn on the 25 th of February on the east bank, where a few pairs were singing blithely upon the stony barren hills. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 75 Ii6. Starling, Sturmis vulgaris, Lian. (Hassclquist 47) ; " Zarzur." Small flocks seen not unfrequently in the Delta and Middle Egypt.* 117. BroWxNT-necked Raven, Corvus tunbrinus, Hedenborg. A Raven was only once distinctly recognized in the Delta. Up the river they were generally seen in pairs, or gathered together in a flock — sometimes as many as forty together — near some carcase ; and yet I have sometimes seen a large number of them where there was apparently nothing to attract them. They were not particularly hard to shoot, and we had soon got enough. I only once found a nest; it was on a solitary palm tree. The hen sat close. Only one of those we shot could strictly be called brown- necked : it was a fine old bird. Some of the others were entirely black, so that it was an excusable error in certain former observers to mistake them for our English Raven. The immature ones are entirely black also. I believe that the variation in size, which I dare say has been noticed by others besides myself, is sexual. One specimen had the nasal feathers a dull yellow, Yarrell, in his ist edition (B. B. II., 65), "accredits the English Raven with being found in Egypt. He says that * In Norfolk, Starlings pair as early as the 2nd of February. As spring advances the habits of these birds undergo a change. Perched upon an ash tree or the gable of a barn, they raise their neck hackles to one another, and seek rather than avoid the proximity of man. One is surprised at the noise which they now make, and there is no doubt that they imitate other birds, such as Hens, Crows, Jackdaws, Ducks, etc. I never listen to them without feeling convinced that this is what they are really doing, but it all ceases by the ist of May. 176 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. it is not molested, its services in removing offal or putrid flesh being considered useful. This is hardly correct even of the Brown-necked species, which I never saw flying in or over an Egyptian town. 118. Abyssinian Raven, Corvus affinis, Riipp. This scarce bird is found in Egypt, but to my great regret I did not get a specimen. Soon after we anchored at Thebes I saw a pair on the sand, and tried to get near them both by land and water. On another occasion, having ob- served a quantity of Ravens congregated at a certain spot, one of my friends tried the experiment of lying down. The Ravens soon lost their shyness, and after he had lain still for some time, one of the rare " Abyssinians" came within shot, but just as he pulled the trigger a common one got in the line and received the charge. Altogether I saw four pairs, of which three pairs were with flocks of the Brown- necked Raven. I suppose the bird has been frequently overlooked, but the shape of its wings and tail are so differ- ent from the common one, that it ought to be distinguished instantly. At p. 71 of the "Ibis" for 1866, the distinctions are given in detail with a woodcut. 119. Hooded Crow, Corvus comix, Linn. (Hasselquist 85) ; " Gurab awar," i.e. The One-eyed Crow, The " Hoodey " is the commonest of the larger birds in the Delta, and the tamest, but further south they are scarcer. One was seen at Boulac (Cairo) with a white patch on its breast, and another pied one was seen lower down the river. I have once or twice observed them perch on the Buffaloes' backs. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 77 120. The Rook, Corvns frugilegns, Linn. This was long ago ascertained to be Egyptian by Hemp- rich and Ehrenberg. I frequently saw flocks of them in the Delta — once a very large flock. On the 13th of February, as I was standing on the deck of the Diabeyha, I saw a lot of them crossing over the river, and shot two from where I stood. One was a glossy old bird, his visage was as shaven as any Rook's I ever saw ; the other was a younger one which had kept its nasal bristles. There is nothing to call for remark in this. It is well known that in every Rookery a few keep the facial bristles until long after Christmas. I have shot a fine old glossy bird with them on the 1st of March in England. 121. Wryneck, Jynx torquilla, Linn. I shot two in Upper Egypt in April, but the bird is not common, 122. SCHIMPERS' Pigeon, Columba scJiimperi, Bp. 123. Rock Dove, Columba livia, Linn.; " Hamam agrak." I bracket these two together, as I could not draw any line between them. At the same time it must not be sup- posed that they are equally common, for Schimper's quite outnumbers the other. Indeed I am not sure that I saw any Rock Doves which were quite like British ones. The pigeon villages on the Nile are indeed a sight. The largest is at Bellianeh, near Girgeh. These pigeons' habita- tions differ very much in construction and shape. Some- times they are funny little towers of brick and mortar, but more often they are the upper stories of the houses of the N 178 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. fellaheen, who bear the mess and the fleas therein en- gendered with Oriental stolidity. The cote consists of numerous pots, a foot or so in diameter, which are let in, one above the other, with little round apertures for the pigeons to go in at. Branches are stuck into the masonry all round for the pigeons to perch upon. In Upper Egypt the pigeon houses are square and not generally domed. In Lower Egypt they are quite different, some of them being like ant-hills with the tops of the cone shaved off; but see Mr. Fairholt's remarks in "Up the Nile," pp. 112 — 120. Rock Pigeons have been so brought under domestication in many countries that it is hard to say which are really wild ones, and nowhere more so than in Egypt. Even when we saw them in cliffs away from houses, at Abou-fceder and Gebel-El-Thayr, there were dark birds of domestic origin among them. At Abou-fffider, on the 3rd of May, there may have been thirty pairs scattered along the base of the cliff, of which I should think at least ten pairs consisted of one mottled bird, and one Rock or Schimper's. There w'as even one pale fawn-coloured bird paired with a Schim- per's. The way in which they settle on the water to drink — like Gulls — has been remarked.* They seem to drink far more than other birds. All day, from every village, streams of them are passing to and returning from the nearest sand- bank. They go to roost early. The young are capital, done spatch-cock fashion, and the old make good soup. I never heard any objection made to shooting them except in the Delta — where they are much less numerous — at a time when they had young. • A writer in the "Field" newspaper (June 26th, 1875) narrates an instance of a Wood-Pigeon settling to drink, but it alighted on the water with outspread wings, which I never saw any of the Egyptian Pig^eons do. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 1 79 124, Turtle Dove, Tiirtnr auritus (Linn.) " Yamameh." First seen on the 2nd of April. By the end of the month only a portion were paired. They are much wilder than the other Doves. Owing to their far lighter colouring, they are generally easy to be told from Ticrtiir isabcllinus at a considerable distance : indeed, they are lighter than any English examples I ever saw. We certainly did not find the difference in time of arrival between the two nearly so great as Captain Shelley did. I have notes of seeing two large flocks in May — 100 or 200 in each — one at the Khedive's nursery garden at Minieh, the other on a bank at Fechn feeding upon the seeds of a species of thistle. 124B. Ttirtiir isabcllinus, Bp., T. sharpii, Shelley. Captain Shelley says this bird arrives in the beginning of February, but though a sharp look-out was kept by us, we did not get any before the 26th of March, when five were shot on Elephantine Island. For the next ten days it was very common, and I saw some large flocks evidently migrating. Then it grew scarcer, and I began to think we had reached its northern limits ; but I found it again at the Faioum. Here it probably nidifies among the tamarisk bushes, though I often saw it out on the lake. The specimens we shot at the Faioum were not so sandy-coloured, nor near so bright as those we killed before. One shot on the 27th of March contained a perfect e.gg ready for exclusion. I am informed by Captain Shelley and Mr. E. C. Taylor that this species is T. isabellinus, though I should never have supposed it from Bonaparte's figure, but the type has been examined, and that settles the question. l8o RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, 125. Palm Dove, Turtur senegaknsis (Linn.); " Gumri." It is hard to say where the Palm Dove is not found, so universally is it spread through the length and breadth of Egypt It will probably be the first bird which the observer meets with when he sets foot on the quay of Alexandria, perhaps cooing on some stucco cornice, perhaps fluttering among the boats in the harbour. The only part where we did not find it was the northern portion of the Damietta branch, and there for more than three weeks it certainly was conspicuous for its absence. These Doves frequent the Palm, Acacia, Nabuk, and every other kind of tree that is known to grow in Egypt, and practise their love-arts in the green foliage. By night they roost in hundreds in some Orange trees at a village near Benisouef, and a grove of dwarf Palms is often a favourite place. In towns and villages there are always a good many ; whether consisting of the rickety tenements of the natives, or the modern inno- vation of lath and plaster, is all the same to the confiding Palm Dove. I saw some flying about the inside of a large sugar manufactory, where they appeared quite at home. I have often heard of their coming into rooms, and on one occasion one came into the cabin of our Diabeyha, and another day a pair settled on the awning ; but it must be understood that they are not in any sense domesticated. Of their own free will they affect the society of man, and he protects them. The immature Palm Dove is brown, and so unlike its parents that it might be taken for a different species. There is also an extraordinary amount of variation in the adults, a circumstance to which my attention was particularly drawn by shooting a very light yellowish female on the 1 2th of March. The differences lie especially in the tints SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. l8l of the head and neck. I could not reconcile them, and I suspect that the recent subdivision of Turtur auritiis may before long be followed by a subdivision of T. senegalensis. 126. Singed Sand-Grouse, Ptcrodes exustus, Tern. ; " Gutta." This species, which rejoices in the name of the Singed Sand-Grouse, is better known to the English as the " Desert Partridge." As a fine sporting bird and very fair eating, it finds favour with the sportsman in a country where there is so little game as Egypt. Unfortunately it is not very common, and so local that it is quite a lucky chance to meet with it ; yet by dint of working for them I succeeded in shooting a good many at different places, notably at Beni- souef, (close to the town) Gow-El-Kebir, Manfalout, and Biba, and did not find them difficult to bring down if one could get near them ; but besides being local, they have the additional bad quality of being very shy, so that one is first made aware of their presence by their oft repeated " gfittd guftd," as they are scudding away far out of shot. I believe this cry is never uttered on the ground. The specific name of one of the Algerian Sandgrouse (much more beautiful than either of the Egyptian) P. akJiata, is derived from the native name which expresses the note. In the middle of April I noticed that they had become much more silent. Doubt- less they had to think of the important duty of incubation. I apprehend that they continue to be gregarious when nesting, as they were seen in flocks at the Faioum in June. They are restless birds ; seldom still, and seldom silent. We generally saw them in coveys of about fifteen, flying very high and very straight, to or from the water in the early morning. It is said that regularly at break of day they go to drink. Afterwards they spend the noon, some in the desert, and 1 82 ■ RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. some in the plains of Haifa grass, and if there be a bare place of an acre or two near to tents, it is a likely haunt for them. At a place of that kind at Gow I saw a flock of these Sandgrouse and two tame Pigeons, apparently frater- nising together very amicably.* It surprised me though I knew their affinity. The belly of a hen I shot on the 9th of March was entirely black. I do not think it was the breeding plumage. 127. Senegal Sand-Grouse, Pterodcs sencgallns (Linn.) Symboloe Physicoe, pi. XV. " Gutta." The Sand-Grouse at Gebel Silsilis were, I believe, all of this species, but they were so shy that we only obtained two. At Radamr near Keneh I shot five, and we obtained a few more when we returned to Gow, where we had not observed this species in coming up. The furthest north that we saw them on the river was at Benisouef, but they come down to the Faioum, where I was at no loss to recognise one fine flock by their yellow colour. The note is also different : they generally say " zvJiccp gutta',' and the Singed Sand-Grouse I believe only say ^' gutta!' One generally saw them early in the morning, flying high up and very wild. They are said to pass the day in the desert, going down to the river to drink in the early morning and in the evening. No doubt they do drink a great deal : some we killed at Gow had as much as a table-spoonful of water in their crops. I think it probable that they are gregarious all the year round, though I am ignorant of their habits after the hatching season. * I possess a Ruff which was shot in Shetland while feeding with some tame Pigeons. The Turnstone has been shot in England in the same companionship (cf. Zoologist, 2652). SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 83 128. Quail, Cotumix coimmmis, Bonnat (Hasselquist, 44) ; " Semman." A few winter in Egypt, but not very many: 1875 was evidently a late season for them. Though most writers speak of having found them in February, we found no quantity until March. On March 2nd eight were flushed, and previously only pairs or single birds were seen.* By the 14th they had begun to arrive in large quantities. Then one could realize the scene in the Israelitish camp, when " the people stood up all that day, and all that night, and all the next day, and they gathered the Quails ; he that gathered least gathered ten homers" {Niinib. xi., 31, 32). Out of a patch of lentils twenty feet square I have seen, I may safely say, fifty brace rise. Although they are gregarious in the strictest sense of the word, they never fly as a flock, but each, regardless of its neighbour, goes its own course, straight and quick, about a yard from the ground. They almost invariably get up at your feet, and seldom fly more than 400 yards. I never saw any on passage by day, and it is said that unlike the Storks they only migrate by night. f As Captain Shelley remarks, they are very unwilling to rise during the heat of the day. Morning and evening are the best times to shoot them ; and ripe barley, or strips of lentils (ads.) just ready to cut, the best places in which to look for them. It is wiser not to go into barley fields, etc., where the business of har- vest has commenced, for the following reason, the national laziness shows itself in the Arab husbandman, who prefers reaping as he sits. Quails fly low, and his head, hardly '* On one day in February as many as seven were seen, of course not together. f Possibly it is because Storks are voiceless that they migrate by day and sleep by night. 184 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. visible above the crop, is in danger of receiving tlie sportsman's charge. I never attempted to make any great bag, but I have frequently shot ten brace. The biggest bag I heard of was eighty brace to one gun, or rather to one sportsman with two guns, at Cairo. The neighbourhood of Cairo is very good ; indeed it would be hard to particularise any place which is not good at the right time, but on the whole we nowhere got better shooting than in the plain of Thebes, right up to the very Colossi. Without a dog you must expect to lose a third unless your native is very expert in marking them. By the middle of April the migration was all past. On the 12th we killed thirteen brace: that was the last day we made a bag. After that they became just as scarce as they had been in the Delta in January. That some stay the summer to breed is certain, and it would appear that a few nest in the winter or early spring, for on the 22nd of March I flushed an early "squeaker " able to fly, which must have been hatched some weeks. I never saw any others. I conclude the natives occasionally catch them for their own consumption, as I was now and then brought a snared one. In Hasselquist's time they netted them in Lower Egypt. 129. Corncrake, Ortygomctra crex (Linn.) The only one I saw was a stufl"ed one at Mr. Mayer's, killed at or near Alexandria. 130. Spotted Crake, Porzana viaructta, Leach. Was met with at Damietta and Benha in January. Captain Shelley may be right in thinking it a resident, but we did not find any at the Faioum. SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 185 ■^131. Baillon's Crake, Porzana pygm(xa (Naum). Captain Shelley says he has " no other authority than that of Riippell " for it, and he appears to consider Riippell's authority worth very little, but at p. 327 he admits that P. pygmcca is a likely bird to be met with. I shot it in the reeds of a pond at Benha, February nth. There were a quantity of Rallidce there — for the size of the place, but I believe they were Spotted Crakes, and perhaps a few VVaterhens. I was attracted to it by its loud note, and after looking steadily for some minutes I saw it moving in the reeds. I had visited the pond before, on the 15th January, but only saw a few Snipes and Dabchicks. On one other occasion I. saw an example, viz., on the 26th of January, on an island on Lake Menzaleh. I flushed it twice, but could not rise it a third time ; for though there was not a bush on the island, there was a good deal of scrubby stuff like heather, as high as a man's knee. 132. Water-Rail, R alius aquaticus, Linn. I saw one in the market at Alexandria on the 8th of January. 133. Water-Hen, Gallinida chloropns (Linn.) " Misticavi." Markets at Alexandria and Cairo. I am not sure if I ever saw it alive, but the species must be pretty common in the Delta to have an Arabic name.* *•* The Water-Hen is but a blind flyer at times. In February, 1838, my father's spaniel flushed one, which flew against a rail with such violence that it knocked itself completely over. 1 86 rambles of a naturalist. 134. Green-backed Porphyrio, PorpJiyrio smaragdonottis, Tern. ; P. cegyptiaciis, Heugl. ; P. JiyaciiitJiiniis, Brehm, jun, nee Temm. ; P. cldoronotiis, Brehm. (PoLile de Ris, Hasselquist) ; " Dick sultani." We made the acquauitance of this fine bird at the Faioum, where it was frequently to be seen stalking about among the reeds at the mouth of the Bar-El-Wady canal. M. Filliponi informs me that they were once common at Damietta, but now are rare. He writes: — "Vers le 1856, chaque chasseur Arabe pourrait en tuer jusqu'a 30 par jour" {in. lift.). They appear to have been common there in Hasselquist's time (175 1), under the name of Poule de Ris* He says : — " This is of the Hen tribe. * - * * They come in May and the following months, taking up their quarters in the rice fields" (Engl. Trans., p. 211). Von Heuglin says very much the same of his P. cegyptia- ciis, which Finsch and Hartlaub and Schlegel unite with P. smaragdonotiis; — " Common the whole summer in Lower Egypt, especially in the lake of Elku, Damietta, in the rice fields. If I rightly remember it is not there in winter" (Syst. Uebers, p. 65). I doubt however its being exclusively a summer migrant. Dr. R. Hartmann met with it at Mareotis (J. f. O., 1863, p. 231). Chaptain Shelley describes his specimen under the name of P. hyacinthimis as having the back and scapulars green like mine. It remains to be seen whether the true P. hya- '■* Sonini has an interesting note on this bird, ("Travels in Egypt," II , p. 57) and mentions that it is called the Poule de Ris. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 8/ ciutJi'uius, Temm., is really found in Egypt. I have no doubt as to what my birds are, but they are not quite so green as three which I have alive. Mr. Burton, the taxidermist in Soho, showed me a speci- men which was obtained in Egypt some years ago by Mr. Baird. I must devote a word or two to my tame ones. I have had them some years now, and they could not look better than they do. They are out of doors all the twelve months, but in the winter their cage is covered up at night with matting. I attribute their good health to its being a movable cage, which enables us to give them fresh ground as often as we like. If given fish, they only eat the head. They like a little grass, but their staple diet is sopped bread. For a long time they were dumb, but now not a day passes but they give utterance to the shrill note which carries me back to the swamps of Egypt. 134B. Coot, FuUca atra, Linn. (Hasselquist, 34). I never saw any Coots on the river or at Birket-El- Kairoun, but at Lake Menzaleh I saw such multitudes as I should not have believed possible. See page 93 for an account of the method of taking them with a casting net.* 135. Solitary Snipe, Gallinago major (Gmel.). One at M. Filliponi's killed at Damietta. I have a very good female obtained on the 9th of May, 1863, by Mr. Allen at Damietta ; but it is not a common bird. ** Very few authors have noticed that the Coot at a certain age — just at that period when it begins to exchange down for feathers, has all the breast, foreneck, and chin, pure white. By the 17th of August these parts have generally turned grey. 1 88 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 136. Snipe, Gallinago media, Leach; " Kennes." Very few Snipes were seen by us between Cairo and Damietta. Between the 13th January and the 20th we only shot 4^ couple. It was not until we came to El-Badalki on January 20th that we found them in great numbers, on the east bank, about four miles south of Damietta. I sup- pose it is the place alluded to by Captain Shelley at p. 25 (o. c). We shot over twenty couple that afternoon. After- wards we were shown several marshes on the edge of Lake Menzaleh, and within easy donkey ride of Damietta, where very good bags might be easily made. They were inferior eating to English Snipes. We did not expect to find any in our voyage up the Nile. Indeed there are no marshes suitable for them, but ten or twelve were shot, chiefly single specimens, on the sandbanks and backwaters. I am rather surprised that we met with so many. The last was on the 21st of April, and I think I remember flashing another or two about the ist of May. I suppose however that there must be some place near Cairo where they are plentiful, as I heard of one gun getting forty couple on the nth of January in that neighbourhood. The majority had the outer tail feathers slightly elongated, though not quite so much as one I got at Moscow on the 20th of September, \%6^ (vide ante). This variety has re- ceived the name of S. breliuii. 137. Jack Snipe, Gallinago gallinnla (Linn.) Very plentiful in the marshes at Damietta; its numbers in proportion to the Common Snipe being slightly more than would be the case in England ; for instance, a third of the bag would probably be Jacks. We did not see many anywhere else, and none above Cairo that I remember. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 89 Obs. Woodcock. Scolopax rusticola, Linn. It is possible that the Woodcock may come to Egypt in very small numbers every winter, for I conversed with three or four people at Cairo who had met with it or heard from others of its occurrence. Von Heuglin speaks of it as found in March ; and as it is a pure migrant and goes to Algeria, I do not see why it should not be found in northern Egypt ; but I can hold out no hope of cock-shooting to the adventurous traveller such as he may get in Greece, or nearer home, in Ireland. 138. Marsh Sandpiper, Totanus stagnatilis, Bechst. This was met with at El-Badalki, and other marshes near Damietta, in January, sometimes in flocks ; but what few we saw in Upper Egypt in April were single birds. I do not think it breeds at the Faioum. The tail-bars are much narrower than in the Green Sandpiper, with which only a casual observer would confound it. 139. Green Sandpiper, Totanus ochropus (Linn.). I did not find it nearly so common in Upper as in Lower Egypt, where it was one of the commonest birds. It was not seen at the Faioum. Probably it is scarce in summer. 140. Wood Sandpiper, Totanus glareola (Linn.). I found the Wood Sandpiper frequenting the same locali- ties as the Green, but it was by no means so abundant. Some remain as late as May. 190 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 141. Common Sandpiper, Totanns hypoleucus (Linn.), This and Temminck's Stint were the commonest Sand- pipers in the Delta, but there is one marked difference in their habits ; the latter goes in flocks, the former is almost invariably single. The Common Sandpiper is also nearly as abundant in the upper part of Egypt, and I saw a few at the Faioum. The agility with which they dive is well known, as is their characteristic flight. With drooping wings they skim so low over the water that the points almost touch it, uttering " ivheet, tvJieef as they fly. The bird describes a semi-circle and settles again at no great distance; or if a a flock of Green Sandpipers or "Pluvians" are passing, he makes a dash at them and goes up stream in the capacity of " plover's page " to their rear-guard. In general I believe the very small water insects are their food, but I once saw a very ambitious one with what I feel sure was a frog. He was Avalking about as if he did not know what to do with it ; and truly it was a large morsel for such a mouth. Those who have used carbolic acid for preserving birds must have remarked what very small mouths the Sandpiper tribe have. Some time ago there was a discussion in the " Zoologist " about the diving powers of the Common Sandpiper. I have seen it in England dive on three or four occasions when wounded, and I once caught one at Dungeness with my hand, in the act of diving, but I never saw it dive for pleasure. A gentleman who knows the bird well, told me that on one occasion he saw one dive to escape a Merlin, which Merlin he immediately afterwards struck into the water with his fishing rod. SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 191 142, Little Stint, Tringa niiinita, Leisl. The Little Stint though very abundant in the Delta, and mixing with Temminck's Stint, was decidedly the least abundant of the two in 1875. A {tw which may have come from south of the equator, passed through Egypt late in spring. Specimens were shot on the 27th and 28th of April, and on the 7th of May ; and in June I found it again at the Faioum, where it was rather common, and where I did not see any Temminck's Stints. 143. Temminck's Stint, Tringa teuiminckii, Leisl. I found this plentiful in the Delta, and often in flocks. I shot two on the 21st of April, which were still in winter plumage ; and I do not think I saw many after that. Captain Shelley does not state whether he considers this species to be resident, but I should not be much surprised if it was. In the winter plumage, this is as different on the back from the Little Stint as it is in spring and autumn. The Little Stint is mottled ; the Temminck's is uniform. ■)fi44. Dunlin, Tringa cinclus, Linn. January 8th, two in the market at Alexandria. February 6th, one in the market at Cairo. 145. Pigmy Curlew, Tringa snbarquata, Giild. I shot two in May, near Gebel-Abou-Foeder, and again in June I met with some at the Faioum. One shot by me on the 7th was in beautiful summer plumage. Mr. E. C. Taylor informs me, that since the publica- 192 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. tion of his last list he has obtained this species at Port Said.* •^146. Sanderling, Calidris arenaria (Linn.). I was much pleased at seeing some flocks on the 6th and 8th of May near Beni-Hassan, and getting three good specimens which were beginning to assume their breeding dress, t 147. Painted Snipe, Becassine dor^ of the French ; Rhynchoea capcnsis (Linn.). As the Painted Snipe is a bird which is a good deal sought after by the sportsmen who visit Egypt, it may be ad- visable to mention all the places where we met with it. At Chek Megahet — a pond in some fields belonging to Mr. Serrur — which lies between Damietta and lake Men- zaleh, ten were found and seven killed. Chek Megahet — I give the spelling as near as I can — is half a mile short of the Snipe-marsh called Rogar. At Mientanosara, between Samanhoud and Zifteh, ten were shot as we were going south ; and the next day (February 8th) eight at Kafr-El- Arma, four miles north of Zifteh on the east bank ; and about a mile further on, four more the following morning on the same bank ; making twenty-nine specimens in all, besides four skins which were given us at Damietta. They are very tame birds, and when you think you have thoroughly beaten a place, you had better beat it again, as '•^ In the " Field" of October 9th, 1875, is an interesting letter on the migratory birds of Port Said. t I have seen a Sanderling in Leadenhall market, London, in full winter plumage as early as the 19th of September, which is a case of very early assumption. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. I93 there will probably be some which have not got up. As they fly a very short distance and go very slowly, it follows that when a colony of ten or twelve are found they are generally nearly all killed. The only thing which saves them is the propinquity of their reedy haunts to the villages, and the native population who come out to witness the " battue," and are very much in the way. One colony was established in the village cesspool — a small tussocky place, less than a quarter of a acre — within forty yards of the houses. The rushes chiefly frequented by this species seemed to be the common flowering sort, with a triangular stem. Painted Snipes should not be sought for in the Snipe-marsh, or the inundated rice fields : they prefer small reedy ponds, with tussocks such as I describe. Sometimes we found these places inland, but in general they were only separated from the river by the tow-path. Here they run about almost like rats, and might often be shot before they get up. One took refuge in a brick-kiln, and two, strange to relate, were seen to perch on houses ! When only winged, I have seen one hiss with fright at the person who picked it up. Their edible qualities are not remarkable. After leaving the Delta we supposed that we had done with them, but a single specimen — the first solitary one we had seen — was shot at Benisouef We flushed it from a piece of ground where two of us had been looking twenty minutes for a dead Sandgrouse ; so reluctant are they to rise. At the Faioum we saw some beautiful specimens, and shot one which had an egg inside it. They were mostly in moist spots among the tamarisks, but I saw one squat down in the canal at the edge. It was done to escape detection, and really it looked exactly like a lump of mud in the water. I do not know whether it has been observed that in June the neck is bulged out in a curious way, and the skin of that part very much stretched. At Alexandria I saw two unblown eggs with the old 194 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. birds from Buhoma. They were stated to have been taken about the 2nd of June. Eleven out of the sixteen skins brought home by us were females. They are gayer than the males, but the males have a more handsomely mottled wing. In Savigny's book there is a good picture of a male with its wings spread to show the spotting. 148. Ruff, Machetes pngnax (Linn.). We did not get the Ruff in the Delta; indeed it was not until we got to Siout that one was shot, out of a small flock, on the Bar-Joseph. In April, when we were higher up the Nile, some very large flocks were seen upon migration — in particular one flock upon the sand-banks at Erment. Several times also these birds were seen in fields. Some of the males which we shot were changing colour, but I never could distinguish any with a symptom of a rufi" even in the largest flock. They evidently throw it out with great rapidity. According to Montagu it is scarcely completed in May (Ornith. Diet. SuppL). At the Faioum in June I saw some flocks of Reeves, but whether they breed in Egypt is not at present ascertained, 149. Curlew, Nuvienins arquatns (Linn.). None were shot, though they were frequently seen. The birdstufifer at Alexandria, however, had a specimen. 150. Slender-billed Curlew, Numenius temiirostris, Vieill. I include this with some hesitation, as no specimen was shot, though I believe some were seen both in the Delta and in Upper Egypt. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. I95 151. Black-tailed Godwit, Lhiiosa cegocephala (Linn.); ? " Bigueka Sultani." At the Faioum we got one out of a small flock : it was still in winter plumage. I saw this flock about at the mouth of the canal as late as June nth. This was the only one we shot ; and I have some doubt whether Filliponi really- intended the above name for this species, I suspect one was never got so late before in Egypt. 152. Redshank, Totaims calidris (Linn). Rather common in the Delta. 153. Greenshank, Totaiius cancsccns (Gmel.) We did not shoot more than two or three, yet it is far from uncommon, and probably resident. It was seen at the Faioum on the 2nd of June.* 154. Golden Plover, CJiaradrius pliLvialis, Linn. Plentiful on the 20th of January at El Badalki, near Damietta. One flock must have numbered three or four hundred birds ; but we did not shoot any, and never fell in with them again. ** A painstaking naturalist tells me that Greenshanks are so tame in the breeding season in Scotland, that he has twice stroked the dam upon her eggs, which in one case were eight in number. A Redshank's " nest " has been taken at Hickling in Norfolk with eight eggs, and it was surmised by the finder that two birds had laid to- gether. Another was taken at Wells with seven. 196 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 155. Middle Ring Plover, yEgialitis intermedins (Menetr.). Is not uncommon in the Delta, associating with the smaller species, but we did not get any south of Cairo. 156. . Little Ring Plover, ALgialitis flnviatilis (Bechst.). A resident, universally distributed and very common. I imagine they generally breed by the river ; but at Gebel Silsilis, a small flock had located themselves at the brink of the desert a mile inland, at a place resembling Thetford Warren in Norfolk (where /E. Jiiatictila breeds inland). How interesting it is to watch these Little Plovers running nimbly over the sand, or gazing at the shipping on the river, or with quick movements picking up the minute sub- stances which constitute their food ! 157. Kentish Plover, ^gialifis cantiana (Lath.), (Hasselquist 30). The Kentish Plover must have been rarer than usual, as • I only shot one at Gow lake (with some yE. varius), and saw another in the market at Alexandria. Captain Shelley's remark is that it is a very abundant Plover both in Egypt and Nubia. 158. African Sand Plover, ^gialitis varius {\I\^\\\.) \ jE. longipes, Heug. ; Fig., Ibis, 1873, p. 262. I did not find this species consorting with the Little Ring Plover. It may be that it prefers lakes to the river. I SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 1 97 only met with it twice on the Nile, viz., at Gow lake, where there were some good flocks, and at a much smaller lake, or rather pond, at Samalout ; but it was breeding at the Faioum in some numbers. The following is a description of a nestling. Feathers of the head and back edged with rufous; chest and over the eye buff; belly white; wing feathers black ; secondaries and greater coverts tipped with white. 159. Lapwing, Vanellus vulgaris, Bechst. ; " Tuktak chamy." Often seen, and occasionally shot. I also remarked its muteness during the winter, noticed by Dr Adams. Of this species, Hasselquist says : — " Comes in great numbers in the beginning of October, and remains all the winter. I saw it about Cairo the 15 th of Decem- ber, 1750, where it is esteemed good eating" (/. c). Captain Shelley says a few remain to breed, but Von Heuglin doubts it, and further corroboration is wanted. 160. Spur-winged Plover, Hoploptems spinosus (Linn.), (Hasselquist 33) ; "Taktak balad." Most conspicuous of Nile birds are the Ziczacs or Spur- winged Plovers, and very tame were they in the Delta, where I killed six at a shot as they stood in an irregular line by the edge of a field. Yet it is an unusual thing to see a large flock ; more often they are in twos and threes. As far as their gastronomic qualities go they are not worth a cartridge, and we very soon left off shooting at them. They quite pervade Egypt. At the village pool, on every sandbank, in every flooded rice field — go at any season you 198 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. like, you cannot fail to find them. Similarly in the young wheat crops and in the clover fields they are quite at home. Sometimes when I have been scanning a clover field, my eye has been arrested by a white patch about the size of a florin, looking for all the world like an Oxeye Daisy ; but though a second glance serves to show ,that it is not a flower, it will remain still for several seconds, and you may imagine that you see resentment gleaming out of a red eye. During this time the bird's head is straight towards you, as I have observed a bird's in a bush generally is, and he is working himself into a passion. His next performance, when he cannot stand being stared out of countenance any longer, is to jerk his body as if someone was pulling at him with a string, to dart up into the air, menacing you with his armed wings, and to give utterance to the loud bi-syllabic cry, which has obtained for him his name of Ziczac. Many were paired as early as February 1st. Their evolu- tions in the breeding season are very curious. Sometimes they assume the most laughable postures. At this time they are often to be seen resting on the length of the tarsus, or sitting upon the sand. I have gone up expecting to find a nest, but there never was one where a bird was sitting. The nests, when we found them, were generally empty — mere hollows in the sand. Apparently, like Lapwings and Wrens, they make many before using one. We obtained very few eggs. Whatever bird or beast ventures near their nests they boldly attack with loud screams. They are the greatest nuisance to anyone watching in a hole for crocodiles. I should say from my experience that the reptilian monsters were infinitely more indebted to the guardianship of the noisy Ziczac than to the Black-headed Pluvian, and for that reason I should side with those who suppose the former to be the trochilns of Herodotus. His anecdote and its sub- sequent embellishments have formed the ground for some controversy ; but admitting that the story of the tooth-pick SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 199- is one founded on fact, it is probable that Herodotus only wrote from hearsay, and knew no more which bird it was than we do. The Spur-winged Plover is stated in the Zoologist to have occurred in England (Zool., 5041) — a mistake doubt- less. 161. White-tailed Plover, Chettusia villotcci (Audouin). I bought a skin at Alexandria, but the only example we met with ourselves was shot at Rackaba, near Damietta, on the 30th of January, and being mistaken for a young Ziczac (!) was thrust incontinently into a bag with other game. A few years ago this was a very rare bird in collections. 162. Pluviamis cEgyptins (Linn.), (Hasselquist, 31.) This is one of the most delicately-coloured birds in Egypt, and others like myself may call to mind the admiration which their first specimen evoked. It is considered by many to be the crocodile bird of Herodotus ; and Gould, in his " Birds of Asia," makes it the faithful attendant on the monsters.* I did not see very many in the Delta, nor for some days south of Cairo. It was most abundant in Middle Egypt as far as Girgeh, after which it became scarcer again until we came to Silsilisv In the breeding, or rather courting season, their actions are very amusing, and as I often got very near them I could observe their strange postures and attitudes. I think their colours fade a little after they begin to breed, and their demeanour is sobered by the responsibility of having chicks ; their boisterous ' See my note under Spur-winged Plover. 200 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. rompings cease, and their emotions tone down as they sub- side into the modest parents of a hopeful family. When wounded they dive even better than Totanus hypolencos, shaking off the crystal drops from their glossy black backs, and baffling the attempts of your attendant to retrieve them. The " Pluvian," or Black-headed Plover, as it is more correctly called, is a noticeable feature in the scenery of the Nile. Hasselquist characterised it as the Egyptian Dotterel. He says it is found in the plains feeding on insects, which is hardly a correct statement ; and he includes it in his list of migratory birds under the months of September and Octo- ber, which is wrong again, as it is a resident. Nevertheless, he was a good naturalist for his day. It is easy for men who know better to carp at him now, but the wonder is that he made so few mistakes. I never noticed that the present species and the Spur- winged Plover could raise the occipital feathers into the kind of low crest represented in the plate of Savigny. 163. Stone-Curlew, (Edicnemus crepitans, Tern. (Hasselquist, 28, 32) ; " Karavan." What would be the astonishment of a West Norfolk gamekeeper to see the Stone-Curlews perching on houses at Damietta } Our Diabeyha was moored near an ancient " casern," now fast falling into ruins : the roof of this edifice was their favourite resort. Twice we laid up for the evening flight, but in vain, and we had to content ourselves with listening to their shrill whistle, and watching their dark forms against the sky. Up the Nile they were seen at various places — always I think in pairs — and specimens ob- tained at Fechn, Minieh, and How. At the Faioum, also the Kiravaii, as it was there called, was rather common. They are such swift runners that you have very little chance SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 20I with a winged one. I ought to say that those in Damietta were in flocks, but it is clear that they pair early. 164. AVOCET, Reciirvirostra avocetta, Linn. ; R. halebi, Brehni, ; " Hdlcbyr To have seen Avocets in a state of nature is alone enough to repay me for the long journey to Egypt. My first acquaintance with them was near Mansourah in the Delta on the 1 8th of January. We had been successful in shoot- ing three out of four Teal, and had walked on some way when we came to a pond, the mud round which was so soft for a considerable distance that it would not sustain the weight of a boy. In this secure retreat were a magnificent flock of Avocets, and a flock of Shoveller-Ducks. They allowed us to come within seventy yards, and then the Avocets rose first in a compact phalanx of white and black. On another occasion as we were returning from a village, we saw six, high in the air, coming towards us from the river, but they swerved before we could conceal ourselves. I have one or two other entries of having seen them in the Delta. When we went up the Nile we encountered Avocets for some time after leaving Cairo, and I never could suffi- ciently admire their gait, their re-curved bills, and their black and white plumage. The last shot above Cairo was on the 15th of March at Negardeh. It was in a state of change. The new feathers which had just come being pure black ; the old ones being dull brown. But the most interesting fact in connection with the Avocet — Captain Shelley having marked it as a winter visitant — was the dis- covery by Mr. Russell of a colony at Mareotis on the 19th of June, very tame, and apparently breeding.* '^ The Avocet is one of England's departed glories. " May 12th, 1839. A man of the name of Gaffer says the Avocet used to be very 202 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 165. Stilt, Himantopus candidjis, Bonn. (Hasselquist, 29) ; "Abou magazel." Of all the queer birds that Nature ever formed, this is the queerest. "At first sight," says Gilbert White, "one might have supposed the shanks had been fastened on to impose on the credulity of the beholder : " but Nature is never wrong, and what seems to the superficial observer a deformity, is a beautiful instrument adapted to the require- ments of a wading bird which seeks its food in shallow waters. It is a strange yet elegant sight to see them bend forward the body at each step, as they slowly pace along in the water ; but when frightened, they rise up, they are only grotesque. With such unusual length of limb, it is needless to say that they are slow fliers. For some seconds their legs hang down like a Flamingo's, and they are greatly incommoded by them. I have seen one go a hundred yards with them dangling at right angles, which so re- tarded his progress that my companions fired seven shots at him before he was out of range. Let me say that though not shy, either the closeness of their feathers, or the small- ness of their bodies, makes them a very hard bird to kill. It was on the sandbanks between Thebes and Assouan that they were most plentiful. We only shot one in the Delta, which I am rather surprised at. Sometimes they were single, but more often in pairs. Once one of my friends saw a flock of forty, but this was most exceptional. Doubtless it is a resident. I shot one at the Faioum in June. In "An Account of the Birds found in Norfolk," it is re- marked that the changes of plumage to which the Stilt is common [at Weybourne in Norfolk], and that he killed sixty-two at one shot in the year 18 14." The above is a MS. note by the late Charles Buxton. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 203 subject appear to require further elucidation.* They do not appear to have got it, as I cannot lay my hand on any work which explains why two adult black-backed males, shot in the spring, should have, the one a dark-brown head and neck, and the other those parts white ; but it is so in two of my Egyptian skins. I shot eight or nine Stilts, and I took some pains to unravel the mystery of their plumage, but all I could ascertain was that the black-backed ones were never females, though the brown-backed ones might occasionally be males. Perhaps the white head is the summer plumage.f Mr. Blyth has some remarks on the colour of their heads in "The Ibis" (1865, p. 35), and he concludes by saying that the most likely explanation is " that differentiated races of this bird have been more or less commingled." This is probable, but not satisfactory. The skin of the leg is scurfy, and the colour varies, the lightest birds having the lightest legs. The tarsus in the male is longer than in the female. 166. Collared Pratincole, Glarcola pratincola (Linn.) ; " Abou El Rusr." Generally in flocks, but occasionally solitary. First shot on the 2nd of April. All naturalists have found a difficulty in saying to what family these birds belong. In their cry, flight, etc., I think they more resemble Terns than any other birds, and they are more often seen on a sandbank than inland. Four shot on the 9th of June out of a large flock had beetles in their crops with red backs and a peculiar smell. Their being in a flock looked as if they were not breeding. ^ Vide Gurney and Fishei- in "Zoologist" for 1846, p. 33. •f Against this view I must remark that Canon Tristram has a black- headed specimen, shot by himself in Algeria in June, and he informs me that others killed at the same time were black-headed also. 204 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 167. Cream-coloured Courser, Cursorius gallicus (Gmel.) On the 9th of March we saw a pair on the plahi at Govv, and on the 27th of April I found a single bird at the same place. He ran like a greyhound ; but, by making a stalking- horse of a camel, I managed to get a long shot. He had been eating white grubs about \\ inches long. Mr. Cory showed me a couple which he had shot, I think he said at Golosanah, but it cannot be considered by any means a common bird. The legs are white. Obs. Houbara Bustard, Hottbara imdulata (Jacq.) I hoped to have got this bird at the Faioum. The overseer of the sugar factory there knows it well. He said they were not uncommonly brought in by the Arabs : he had one alive three months. 168. Crane, Gvjis commnnis, Bechst. (Hasselquist, p. 207). I am not positive what was the last date on which we saw the Crane. We thought we saw two on the 17th of May, ; but if they really were Cranes, they were stragglers, behind the main body which had departed north some weeks before. They are said to be common in winter, but I did not see one before February 14th. He was on a sandbank with some Herons. As he towered above his lesser brethren I felt no doubt of what he was, but we were just then scudding along before a famous breeze, and could not stop even for a Crane. But at Gebel-Tair on the 28th of February, nineteen were counted. Even this was nothing to what we saw afterwards. At Siout and Gow SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 205 great flocks were slowly sailing grandly round — in magnifi- cent circles. This was in the second week in March, Their pinions were almost motionless, their necks were stretched a little downwards, and their whole appearance was majestic. Perhaps moved by curiosity, they came right over the Diabeyha, and I then saw that it was not a game of " foUow-my-leader," but that each marked out its own circle and took its own separate course. At other times they might be seen on the ground, march- ing off with great strides, like a much better drilled regiment of soldiers than any the Viceroy has. I believe it is con- sidered a great feat to shoot a Crane, as they are notoriously shy and wary birds. Only once was it our luck to do so. On the 27th of February we had gone out for a long walk near Minieh, and we came upon a pair in an open field. They were standing still with their heads bent down to the ground, and really they looked such large brown creatures that it was difficult to believe they were birds at all. On one side of the field were some beans about three feet high, on the other a yellowish crop like mustard. Mr. Russell hid him- self in the former, and I, taking a circuit, concealed myself in the latter. When plenty of time had been allowed us, the Cranes were put up and made straight for the beans. I heard two reports, and saw one bird go on : this was the cock. Mr. Russell had shot the hen. If he had killed it with his first barrel he would easily have got both. It weighed eleven pounds. We tied it to a large stick, and I fancy the Arab who carried it on board was not sorry when tJiat job was over. The red skin on the head turned black next day, and red again after it was skinned. The length as noted down at the time was forty inches ; the expanse fifty-one. I looked for the ova of parasites on the axillaries which I had found in all my British specimens, but there were not any. No doubt Hasselquist was correct in supposing that the 206 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Crane came to Lower Egypt in autumn ; but the statement made to him by some Egyptians that it came there from the south was wrong. 169. Heron, Ardea cinerea, Linn.; " Balachoun." The grey English Heron is a very common bird in Egypt and resident, but its numbers are probably diminished in the summer. They are very fond of standing in parties of a dozen at the extremity of a sandbank when they are not fishing, where they can command a good view round. Upon these sands of Egypt they look almost white in the hot glare of the eastern sun. I observed some about the lofty ledges of Gebel-Abou-Foeder, where the mountains rise in a precipice on the east side. They are of stupendous height, and this is considered the most dangerous place on the Nile. There were numbers more on the cliffs beneath the Coptic convent of Gebel-Tair (i.e. the mountain of a bird). I dare say they breed there. These cliffs are about two hundred feet high. Those at Abou-Foeder are higher still. We shot several specimens on the Nile, but none so fine as a very old bird which I shot at the Faioum. I have often noticed some rusty yellow on the carpal joint, but in this one there was also a considerable amount of it on the lower portion of the fore-neck. Two, got about the end of April, were still in immature plumage. Fish is their general food : one fellow had eleven good-sized ones in his throat. It is possible that they themselves are occasionally made prey of by the crocodiles, as one was seen to snap at a Heron on the edge of a sandbank. Vierthaler, in his Orni- thological Diary on the Blue Nile, says that he and Brehm observed unmistakable traces of a quarrel between a Croco- dile and a Crane, in which the former was victorious. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 20/ I shall have some remarks to make on the occipital plumes of the Night-Heron. In the present species Yarrcll states that they are dark slate blue, which is true of mine ; but a celebrated falconer told me that he once got one with a white centre. I have twice seen Herons with four plumes, once with five, and once with six ; but in the last I will not be sure that they had not been stuck in, as it was at the shop of a birdstufTer rather clever at such tricks of the trade. Mr. Rocke mentions getting a cock which at four months old exhibited the crest (Zoologist, ss.. Si). 170. Purple Heron, Ardea purpurea, Linn. ; " Hagaf." This is a very handsome bird. It is of a more slender build than the Grey Heron, and more solitary in disposition, but it is not anything like so common. I only shot one in Upper Egypt, and two at the Faioum, one of which I could not find. I did not see as many at that lake as I expected. There were only two or three pairs, which were going to nest with the Buff-Backs, I have no doubt. The first we obtained went through some very funny antics. I did not see it myself, but it was described to me as squatting flat down on its stomach, with its neck extended to the full stretch, as if. Ostrich-like, it thought it could hide itself on a bare bank of sand. i/L Great White Heron, Herodias alba (Linn.); " Ryti " and "Balachium abiad." Seen only occasionally and at such a distance as fully warranted its reputation of being a very shy bird ; but one at least — upon Lake Menzaleh — was sufficiently near to make its identification pretty certain. 268 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 173. Lesser Egret, Herodias garzetta (Linn.) ; " Baiad." It was not until March that we fell in with this exquisite wader. I believe that it is comparatively scarce in winter, but that there is a northward movement in April. On our return journey from Assouan a good many were seen and shot, some with a beautiful plume, others showing scarcely a trace of it. Probably a few individuals do not assume it. We found it nowhere so common as at the Faioum in June, where we shot some superb specimens, and others with no plume at all. Nor is this a sexual difference, as the female has sometimes quite as fine a plume as the male. They were evidently about to breed with the Buff-backs. Two were seen with nesting materials in their beaks ; one was carrying a stick a yard long, but he appeared un- decided which nest to put it on, as after twice flying away and returning with it, he left the tamarisks in disgust, determined to sacrifice his long stick rather than let me see where the nest was. The Egret is not invariably a solitary, for on the 21st of April I saw fifteen together with a flock of Spoonbills, and on the 1st of May four were killed out of a flock of nine. I have often seen them dancing, and supposed they were catching flies, but I never saw them set up the dorsal aigrette. The cere is bluish in April, becoming much brighter in June; the beak is sometimes covered with a bloom, some- times not; the colour of the eye is yellow, but somewhat variable. It would be easy to produce several instances of variableness in the iris of birds. In the young Ring Dove* the iris is white, in the adult it is yellow ; but on the 3rd of June, 1 87 1, I saw a Ring Dove which had the irides slate- coloured. '■' Colinnba palambus^ L. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 209 173. Buff-backed Heron, Ardeola mssata (Wagl). (Hasselquist, 25) ; "Abu guirdan." Is In some respects the most noticeable bird upon the Nile, though far commoner below Cairo than above it. I shot one in winter with a good buff plume, but that is very rare. Nine-tenths of what the traveller sees are as white as alabaster. When he beholds them perched like the purest of statuettes upon a gnarled old sycamore-fig, or peering out from among the leaves of the Nabuk, he needs no dragoman's prompting to convince him that now indeed he has before him the veritable Ibis rcligiosa. As in England the Crane has bequeathed its name in certain parts to the Heron, and the Bustard to the Stone-Curlew, so the Buff-back has inherited that of the Sacred Ibis in Egypt. In the meadow land of the Delta they are very common, and I have sat sometimes watching them by the hour. Generally they will be in attendance on a herd of buffaloes, pecking gnats off their legs, or scrutinising their foot-prints. The cattle and their masters are so much indebted to them that they become very unwary. I have seen one almost driven over by a man who was ploughing with two oxen. I think they prefer the fields very much to the river, indeed I do not remember ever seeing them wading in the water like other Herons. In April we saw scarcely any except a few large flocks on migration. One of these was drawn up on the Nile banks. Another was on an uncovered sandbank with some Ruffs and Caspian Terns. Then for an interval we did not see any, but in May I again found a i^^ in a field near Minieh. They fly slowly with the neck and head drawn in like a Little Egret. If they come unexpectedly on a concealed gunner, they stretch them out and utter a cry which is dissonant, but not so loud as an Egret's. I P 210 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. never saw an Egret consorting with them, though I have occasionally seen the two species flying side by side. The Buff-back is the smaller bird, and may always be told at a distance by the shape and colour of his bill. One of the most interesting sights at the Faioum was a breeding place of these birds — at that time (June) — in the most luxuriant plumage. A colony of, I should say, five hundred of them, had chosen a large bed of dead tamarisks for their breeding place. None had young, and a good many had not yet completed the process of building. Three was the commonest number in those nests which had eggs, but in one I counted seven. They stand from two to five feet above water-mark, and are made of branches snapped off dead tamarisks hard by, or picked up on the shore. One only had mud in its composition. Several were lined with a few reeds. They are not very large, the diameter being about a foot. Many of the old birds were carrying sticks about, which at a distance gave them the appearance of very long-beaked birds ; albeit, all I saw near were carry- ing them crossways. At sunrise troops of them might be seen going south to forage in the fields as far as Medinet, or further ; yet at nine o'clock they are not all off their eggs, and a visitor at eleven would find lOO or 200 which have already returned, or are perhaps staying there to keep guard and watch against other birds which might be tempted to steal from the nests. In the evening again it was very amusing to watch them like Rooks going home laden with locusts and beetles which they had caught in the fields of young sugar-cane and doura-corn, some following the sinuosities of the shore, some flying along the Bar El Wady canal (with the Cormorants and an occasional Egret), some passing straight over the tents, their white forms stand out clearly against the still blue water, all are bound for the same haven, a few, earlier than the rest, have their beaks open as if panting from the heat. SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 211 The first I skinned — which was shot at Boulac — contained eleven frogs. Another a green caterpillar and some grain. Another locusts. They are said not to feed on fish (Ibis, 1863, p. 37,). Hasselquist (pp. 85, 195, 198) gives interesting particulars of the habits of a white Heron which he considered to be the Sacred Ibis, but which was in reality Ardm biibnlais \ cf. Savigny's Histoire de I'lbis, p. 6. 174. Squacco Heron, Ardcola comata (Pall.) ; " Uak abiad zugaiar." On the 25th January I shot a Squacco Heron at Damietta. It was wading in a reedy lake with some Red- shanks, but when I first saw it, it was alone. We did not meet with the species again until the i8th of April, when a second was shot from some rushes at the edge of the Nile near Keneh. At the Faioum we saw some very handsome ones in June, among the tamarisks, I surmise that a pair or two were going to breed in company with the Buff-backs. They were very different in plumage from the brown-backed bird which I shot in January. 175. Little Bittern, Ardctta minuta (Linn.). The only place where we met this bird was at the Faioum. I had expected to find it there, as I was told that I should, when at Cairo. It seemed however to be confined to one small odoriferous swamp, where the water was a foot and a half deep, and the reeds and bushes were above the height of a man ; and I have no doubt it only comes here during the time of nidification. We put up at least fifteen pairs in a swamp of four acres. In spite of their slow ungainly flight they rise to some height, but they have not the power 212 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. to go far. They were always perched on the upper part of the reeds ; one, which was in the middle of a bush, when it saw me, commenced with deliberate steps and beak pointed upwards to ascend a slanting branch, with the object I suppose of getting to a clear place to fly away. This un- healthy morass is on the south edge of the lake, about opposite Abouquisse. I should add that the species is found at Damietta, as Mr. Hughes purchased a good specimen which had been obtained there.* 176. Bittern, Botaums stcUaris (Linn.) ; " Uak." One, Damietta, January. The eye turns downwards in its socket in this species. 177. Night Heron, Nycticorax griseus (Linn.) ; (23, Alccdo cegyptia, Hasselquist) ; " Uak sagar." I presume the Night Heron is resident, though I cannot say I saw any during the latter part of my tour. Li the Delta we sometimes saw them singly, but generally in small flocks, upon the tops of trees ; never on the banks with the Common Herons. On January 17th we saw about thirty — the largest flock we saw in Egypt — at Shibrue. There were several adult birds, but for the most part we saw immature ones in the Delta ; whereas in Upper Egypt I believe we never met any except adults — single birds hiding themselves during the day in the umbrageous tops of the palms, which * I have heard of several Little Bitterns being kept in confinement. A hard fate befel one of ours : it stuck its beak too far through the bars of its cage, and a malevolent Peacock wrenched off the upper man- dible. The same spiteful trick was played by a Parrot on one of its smaller brethren. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 215 they would not quit until I was quite under them. One fine specimen was shot upon a sandbank, but that was exceptional. The flight of this bird is slow : when high up, battling against the wind, he makes no headway, but remains stationary : his short tail gives him an absurd appearance. Two is the normal number of occipital plumes. I shot one with three, but they were short ones. My father has a Norfolk specimen with six.* A Night Heron weighs about li lbs. Wilkinson, who was no ornithologist, thinks that "the Tufted Benoo " was the Buff-backed Heron, which he mixes up in his description with the Lesser Egret. I agree with Dr. Adams that the pictures are much more like a Night Heron. They vary, but one or two I think are unmistak- ably the Night Heron, which accordingly has the honour of being one of the four sacred birds of Egypt. My father has determined this to be the Alcedo cEgyptia of Hasselquist, in immature plumage, from the description in the Latin edition. 178. White Stork, Ciconia alba, Bechst. ; " Billerique." Egypt is a famous country for collecting the Heron and Stork tribe : I doubt if any other country has a greater number of species or individuals. The subject of this note is familiar to everyone from boyhood as the household bird of the continent, emblem among the Germans of affection and constancy, whom it is pious to foster, impious to slay. But the feeling which protects it in Europe, (and in the Algerian " Tell,") does not yet extend to Egypt, and the •At p. 4913 of the Zoologist, Mr. Rodd records the occurrence of a Cornish specimen with ten ! 214 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. fellah will look on unmoved if you desire to shoot one. He will have a worse opinion of you for shooting the Buff- backed Herons, and he is right there, because the good they do is so very palpable and obvious. With these preliminary observations, I will at once com- mence with my first experience of Storks in Egypt, which was about the end of March, and I dare say I shall not be believed when I describe the prodigious migratory flights which passed us. Armies of them would whiten the sand- banks at early morning, which had evidently spent the night there ; and by day they were to be seen sailing round and round in countless myriads. It dazed the eye to look at them. The air seemed scribbled with their white forms. I am within bounds in saying that there seemed enough Storks to stock every church, and every tower, and every public office in the whole of civilized Europe. To those who deem me romancing, let me say this : no one should disbelieve a thing because he has not seen it. It must be borne in mind that Egypt, or at least the Nile valley (they are synonymous terms) is one of the greatest arteries, so to speak, by which feathered migrants seek a northern clime. Like man, they shun to cross the Great Sahara, where the sands are trackless and the elixir of life — water — is wanting. Hence their teeming thousands in the Nile valley. For the same number, which in another and a fertile land would per- haps be spread over 3,000 miles, are here compressed into a space which on a average is only three miles broad. And this will go on for ever. The channel which has been found so often will be found again ; and unless their numbers are kept down by disease, each succeeding year will probably witness greater and greater droves, for few guns are em- ployed against them, and they enjoy a comparative immunity alike from the real sportsman, the naturalist, and the pot-hunter. The first time we saw a drove was very late in the SIX months' bird collecting in egypt. 215 evening, and we did not discern them until a shot, fired at a passing bird, put them up. Then the whole air was peopled. Many were the conjectures which might have been heard on our Diabeyha as to what they were, and we finally resolved that they must be Numidian Cranes ; but this great flock was as nothing to what we saw on the 25th of March. On that day I was just thinking of getting out of bed — it was about 6 a.m., for I always rose early — when the waiter tapped at my door and pronounced the magic word wis, which literally means a Goose, but which was employed by that functionary to designate any large bird which he thought we should like. I whipped on my clothes with something less than the speed of " greased lightning," and on coming up on to the deck beheld an extraordinary spectacle. On the sandbanks before me, motionless and still asleep,- were three huge regiments of Storks, looking for all the world like great herds of sheep pasturing on the wolds of Yorkshire. I judged that in the largest of those " cohorts " there might be a thousand birds, but the others were not much less. I shot one with my rifle, and im- mediately the air was filled with them, each with his legs sticking out behind him, and a red beak appearing from between his great wings. After circling, one above another, in concentric rings (of which the highest seemed the small- est) for half an hour, during which the sky seemed alive with them, they took themselves ofif in a northerly direction to seek some safer quarters. Besides these vast hordes, which I must say were even a greater phenomenon than the living islands of Ducks on lake Menzaleh, I now and then came upon much smaller flocks halting in the desert ; and very hungry and unsociable they appeared to be, each a hundred yards or so from his neighbour, and wrapped up in contemplation of the dreary scene around him. ^i6 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. The migration which I have attempted to describe was soon over, but long after the travellers had passed, we used occasionally to come across a solitary, which was no doubt some weakly bird which had been unable to keep up with the ranks. The first of these single ones, doomed to a life of celibacy, was by my note book observed on the 31st of March, watching some husbandmen at work by the edge of the cultivated ground. Its air bespoke a moody and despondent mind. After a little judicious stalking it was brought to bag, when it proved to have black beetles in its throat, and locusts in its gizzard. No doubt it sighed for the inundation, and the time when it should bear aloft in its terrible shears the juicy frog. Other hermits we saw at Silsilis, Kom Ombos, Edfou, Erment, and Fechn. They had settled down into their summer tameness, and though cut off from their kindred, it is to be hoped they found some village mosque on which to perform the duties of incubation, and partners to aid them in its most important functions ; but strange to say, I never saw a nest in Egypt, not even at Alexandria or Cairo ; yet some must remain for the summer, as I saw a flock as late as June 12th, but I apprehend that Storks in full vigour do not find their northern limit in Egypt. They appear from what has been written by some authors to have been met with in winter, but these may have been only individuals arrested on their southward journey by the same causes which stopped those we saw on their north- ward course. On the 19th of February I observed the first one that I am sure about, but my companions thought they saw some earlier. Specimens pulled down the steelyard at from 5^ to 6| lbs. I noticed that there were no tertials or feathers between the scapulars and secondaries, and that the bron- SIX months' bird collecting in EGYPT. 21/ chial tubes were over five inches in length, in spite of which the Stork is voiceless.* 179. Black Stork, Ciconia nigra (Linn.). Rather common, but I believe we did not see any in the Delta. Mr. Buxton shot an immature bird at Erment, and an old one near Benisouef. The latter measured 38^ inches from tip of tail to end of beak ; expanse 53^. A mass of half-digested fish was pressed out of its mouth. Captain Shelley says — '"It is an unsociable bird, never congregating in flocks or associating with other species" (0. c, p. 265 j; but at Abou-Girg we saw twenty-four with Spoonbills, Herons, and Ducks in a flock. A single one is sometimes seen near a pool in the fields. I rather think it is not found in Egypt in the summer. We however saw one as late as May 17th, a very fine bird ; it passed over me almost within gunshot. 180. Spoonbill, Platalea leucorodia, Linn.; "Abu Malaka," or " Daouas," or "Midwas." This singular bird was only seen twice in the Delta, but several were obtained up the Nile, and one at the Faioum. On one occasion a discharge of four barrels into a flock resulted in nine specimens, but they were mostly young birds, and got very dirty from the mud where they fell. In March I have counted as many as 103 in a flock. In April the numbers were generally smaller, but on the 22nd about a hundred were seen together. It is evidently migratory. * The Stork is a rare bird in Norfolk. In 1861 one paid a visit to the parish of Northrepps and alighted in a large marl-pit, now disused, and close to a public road. The keeper went after it and would cer- tainly have shot it, but a boy put it up. The bird then flew to Wood- bastwick, where it was killed. It contained an egg ready for exclusion (cf. B. of Norfolk, II., 181). 2l8 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. We were very much mystified by the small size of some we shot. It may probably have been that they were hens, but the circumstance is also noticed by Von Heuglin (Ibis, 1859, P- 346)- What made it remarkable was that they were, with one exception, old crested birds with short dark beaks, while the large-beaked specimens were immature. The bill in the shortest I measured was 7yo* in the longest 9f, a marvellous difference. The tarsus in the shortest 5| ; in the longest 7^. Captain Shelley gives the entire length at 36 inches, but I have no doubt his system of measure- ment is different from mine, as our biggest was only 29. I measure from the forehead to the tip of the tail ; and per- haps I ought to add, that wherever I give the length of a bird it has been taken before it was skinned. Heuglin (op. cit.) says the eye is yellow in the young, but in one which I examined it was grey. Several specimens had the thighs stained with buff, yet I never saw any wade above the tarsus. I should think that the White Herons set down as Ardca garsetta with a query by Dr. Adams were probably Spoon- bills. A young Spoonbill in the Zoological Gardens used to sit on its tarsal joints, with its feet raised an inch or two into the air, so that no part of it but its knees (or ankles as they are more correctly called) touched the ground. The keeper told me that the Storks did the same. 181. Glossy Ibis, Ibis falcinclhts, Linn. (29, Tririga autumnalis longirostris, Hasselquist) ; " Herres." On the 13th of 'April I saw a Glossy Ibis in the water- course, which one has to cross in going to the Memnonium * In a young bird of the year shot at Yarmouth (Zool., 2871) it is only 6.6. SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 219 or the Tombs of the Kings. It was standing near some Bufif-backs. The next day we found it again in exactly the same place, but without the Buff-backs. When frightened by being shot at, it mounted very high, flying in circles with its neck extended. At Damietta I was offered a pair which had been shot the previous spring. I took the larger and brighter one of the two, which I presume was the male. It is a fine bird, but not so good as an Alexandrian one of Mr. Allan's which I lately saw on sale at Mr. Gerrard's, and which may be the specimen referred to in the "Ibis" for 1863, p. 34. I saw another Alexandrian example at Mr. Mayers'. Some remarks will be found about the Sacred Ibis (which we never met with) in chapter VI. 182. Flamingo, Phcenicoptcrus aiitiqnorum, Tem. ; " Bachirroch," or " Basharoos." High praise has been lavished on the Flamingo, and the untravelled Englishman has always been taught that this is " the bird of all birds," and that nothing in nature is so surpassingly beautiful ; while all writers have vied with one another in finding epithets to describe the spectacle of the pink tints of a band of them rising into the air ''an animated rosy cloud." Having at last realised the ardent wish to see them, which I have ever had from childhood, I am bold to say that on the whole they are not overrated — their vaunted splendour is not a myth but a real thing, and nothing will ever dispel from my memory the feelings with which I first saw Flamingos. It needs not the halo of Afric's sun to illumine a splendour to which the gilded birds of the tropics must yield the palm. Marshalled, they stand in one long glittering line ; some of them apparently with no head ; others with but one leg ; others with raised wing 220 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST, and extended neck, evidently enjoying what is denominated stretch. Their tall forms are mirrored in the glassy lake. They are silent and still. Perchance a distant boatman hails us. Perchance the word backshish is borne on the air with such bawling that the cautious Flamingos, fearful even in their security, are put up. Then what a delicious scene arrests the eye, as the black-pointed wings unfold and reveal the intense red scapularies, which, hidden before, appeared to be cream-colour, pale by comparison with their bright- ness now. They take several steps in the air,* half flying, half walking, and wholly awkward, for twenty yards or more ; and then gathering themselves together they grad- ually let their long legs trail out behind. If a small troop, they perhaps fly away in Indian file ; but if a large one, they go off in one bright mass, the vivid tints of which are visible afar off, and which no man who has seen it will ever forget. When the naturalist has got over his ecstacies he had better go to the mud where they were standing, as if, as is most probable, they have been preening themselves, he will be rewarded by some exquisite feathers. It has been well said that the salt lakes in the north of Africa are the Flamingos' home. On the great waters of Egypt they breed so abundantly, that a birdstufifer at Alexandria told me that he got 200 eggs from Mariotis at one raid. What splendid opportunities might here be afforded to anyone sufficiently sun-proof to work out the imperfectly-known details of their nidification, and to fill up the blanks in our knowledge with regard to the posture which the sitting bird assumes and other points. Up the Nile, travellers will very likely not see one. We only saw a few. They were between Cairo and Minieh, and were young birds. At the Faioum we did not see any at ** See Mr. Macgregor's picture of them taking wing on lake Men- zaleh. (The Rob Roy on the Jordan, p. 80.) SIX MONTHS BIRD COLLECTING IN EGYPT. 221 all ; at the same time I must say that the lake is large, and we only explored a portion of it. ^183. Lesser White-fronted Goose, Anser erythropus (Linn.). I bought this small Goose of M. Eugene Filliponi at Damietta, where it had been killed in January, 1875, only a short time before our arrival. We neither of us knew what it was, but he was satisfied it was not the White-fronted Goose (A. albifrons), which is very common. The follow- ing are the measurements : — Wing 12.4 inches. Tarsus 2.2 >> Culmen 1-3 M For comparison, these are the measurements of a female White-fronted Goose, shot at Islay in Scotland. Wing 17. inches Tarsus 2.7 „ Culmen 2.1 „ And these of a female which I shot near Minieh in Egypt : Wing 15.8 inches. Tarsus 2.5 „ Culmen 1.9 „ The underparts in the Damietta example are brown with- out any barring. It is evidently a young bird. This is the first time that this species has been recognized in Africa. My bird has been examined by Mr. E. C. Taylor, and Professor Newton, also by my father, who was the first to make out what it really was. 222 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 184. White-fronted Goose, Anser albifrons, Gm. ; "Wiz" (Hasselquist, No. 36). A good many were seen on the Damietta branch, particu- larly near Mansoura, where we fired at a large flock, which did not leave the neighbourhood, but returned again to the same sandbank. Between Cairo and Minieh we saw none, but on the 3rd of March we met with large flocks of Anatidce, and obtained two of these Geese. After that, the sandbanks were entirely deserted by Ducks : no one should come to Egypt for that sort of sport later than January, Most Egyptian specimens of the White-fronted Goose, in- stead of being barred are nearly white on the under-surface, which has generally been supposed to be the immature plumage ; albeit, I have known one in confinement live five years and not get these bars. 185. Egyptian Goose, Chcnalopcx cugyptiaais (Linn.).* Not seen in the Delta, but very common south of Cairo ; indeed we saw the first flock before we were clear of the town. On our return journey a portion of them had migrated, yet as late as the 20th of May over 150 were seen upon one sandbank at Zouyeh ; and from the quantity of feathers and numerous tracks, it was supposed they had been there a long time. A dropped Q