THE RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. VOL. I, London : Printed bv Spottiswoode <& Co.. I^ew-stveet Squave, EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST ON THE COASTS OF FRANCE, SPAIN, AND SICILY. A. DE QUATEEFAGES, MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTE, PROFESSOR OF ETHNOLOGY AT THE MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AT THE JARDIN DES PLANTES, ETC. ETC. TRAN SLATED (with the Author^s sanction and co-operation) E. C. OTTE, HONORARY MEMBER OF THE LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY OF ST. ANDREWS. IN TWO VOLUMES. YOL. I. LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. 1857. TO SIR DAVID BREWSTEE, K.H. D.C.L., F.E.S. ONE OF THE EIGHT ASSOCIATES OF THE IMPERIAL INSTITUTE OF FRANCE, CHEVALIER OF THE PRUSSIAN ORDER OF MERIT OF FREDERICK THE GREAT, PRINCIPAL OF THE UNITED COLLEGES OF ST. SALVATOR AND ST. LEONARD'S, ST. ANDREWS, ETC. ETC. ETC. Deae Sie David, I VBNTUEE to associate your name with the present volumes on the double ground that the learned Author is one of the most active members of the time-honoured Institute of France, which, by electing you one of its Eight Foreign Associates, has conferred upon you the highest honour that can be attained in the world of Science ; and that M. de Quatrefages, like yourself, com- bines the faculty of abstruse research with the felicitous gift of popularising science in a spirit at once earnest and genial. Hoping that you may be spared for many years to continue your important labours in those fields of science in which you have already reaped so rich a harvest, I remain, Dear Sir David, Yours very truly, E. C. OTTE. St. Andrews : October 1857. INTRODUCTION. In writing for the Revue des deux mondes the articles which I now reprint with several modifications, I have to some degree been influenced by the wish of placing zoology in a more just and favourable light. Most persons form a very false idea of the natural sciences generally, and of zoology more particularly : indeed, by many persons the zoologist is looked upon merely as a man who can repeat by rote a more or less considerable number of barbarous names, and who is acquainted with a certain number of anecdotes in relation to the habits of animals — a species of infor- mation which, although it is no doubt very interesting in its way, is alike useless in a practical point of view and unworthy of occupying the serious atten- tion of a cultivated mind. This is a singular error, but it is one which readily admits of an explanation. There are few children into whose hands some little book on natural history has not fallen, but unfortunately most of these works are very ill adapted to give exact ideas of the dif- Vlll INTRODUCTION. ferent branches of this science. Erroneous impres- sions which are not corrected by any ulterior teaching must necessarily become thoroughly confirmed. And yet to judge of zoology by the collections of stories which amused our childish years, is very much the same thing as if we were to form a judgment of phy- sical science from the tricks of a juggler, or of astro- nomy from what we learn by pointing a telescope in the open air at Saturn's ring or the mountains in the moon. I have thought that the best means of bringing the educated classes to adopt more correct ideas was to leave zoology to defend itself by showing the great truths which it has discovered and the nume- rous facts which it comprises, and by indicating the problems of general physiology which it has solved and the profound questions of natural philosophy which no other science can so well enter upon. By this course I hoped to bring over to the ranks of its defenders a band of intellectual supporters, and I think I may venture to assert that experience has shown that my hopes were not unfounded. Many utilitarians, while they admit the interest which is awakened by this order of facts and ideas, inquire, Cui bono ? — This discouraging question, which was formerly addressed to all sciences, is now limited to zoology. It is admitted that mathematics are of some use ; physics and chemistry have long since given proof of their utility by the deduction INTRODUCTION. IX of practical facts from abstruse theories. The cul- tivation of fruits and the sale of flowers, by giving a profitable occupation to thousands of persons, have popularised the study of botany, that elder sister of the other natural sciences which perhaps owes its first popularity to its early association with medicine ; while mineralogy and geology, after having been long studied in consideration of the light which they might throw upon the pi^actical working of mines, have of late been also applied to agriculture. It is only within the last few years that zoology has been directly applied to any objects capable of yielding a profitable return. The light which this science was able to throw on the phenomena of life was not sufficient to attach to it the attention of the general public, who number among their body men of distinguished eminence in special departments, but who too often do not esteem any science but the one to which they are exclusively devoted. Many of our most distinguished savants are often as blind as the most illiterate of their fellow-citizens to the direct applications of any department of knowledge of which they are themselves ignorant. Thus, for ex- ample, they cannot comprehend that the breeding of agricultural stock and the cultivation of domestic animals — two most important problems regarding which our knowledge has hitherto been merely empirical — are only definitely based upon the science of zoology. X INTRODUCTION. But zoology has not been behindhand in satisfying the requirements of our age. Recent experiments on artificial fecundation have drawn attention to long forgotten facts and have shown that the waters may yield as rich a harvest as the land. Notwithstanding some of those failures which are inseparably associated with first attempts, the future success of pisciculture as an industrial art is established beyond all question; and here we do not simply allude to the propagation of fish, but to that of all the aquatic animals which are useful to man. Without going beyond France, we shall find many results in proof of this success. Thus, for instance, M. Coste has acclimatised river fish in a pond at the College de France. MM. Gehin and Remy have re-stocked several rivers from which the fish had long disappeared. M. Millet has this year thrown into the Levriere more than two thousand trout of a year's growth, weighing collec- tively nearly 450 pounds, and all of them the produce of one well managed fish-preserve. The artificial rearing of leeches at Bordeaux has for years been a source of wealth to the proprietors ; and owing to the exertions of these and other enterprising men France will soon cease to be dependent on foreigners for these useful Annelids. The town of La Rochelle possesses reservoirs for the breeding of shrimps and oysters, where the former are sheltered from the mud which would destroy them, and where the latter ac- quire from their first appearance the green colour which INTRODUCTION. XI characterises the celebrated Marennes oysters. We may next refer to the artificial oyster beds, which are readily constructed, and might indeed be planned, on the model of the mussel beds of Esnandes. Nor must we pass over in silence the introduction into Europe of new species of domestic animals — a subject to which the Societd (Tacclimatation is especially de- voted. Next there is the artificial fattening of stock and the extraction of fatty matters, the first sugges- tion of which is due to zoologists; and, lastly, we must remind our readers of the immense development which the various artificial means of rearing animals will probably attain in the course of time. With such considerations before us, it surely can no longer be asked of zoology, Cui bono ? Thus much for utilitarianism. Man, if he were a mere material organism, only a little superior to the inert bodies in nature, would still owe some debt of gratitude to zoology. JMan, however, combines with his material nature an intelligence and a soul. Every man worthy of the name has intellectual and moral wants as imperative as his physical necessities ; and we may unhesitatingly venture to assert that no science satisfies in so high a degree as zoology the noble instincts which constitute the human species a kingdom apart in the realm of nature. Is there not then some degree of utility in such a result as this ? In the course of the present work I have fre- Xll INTRODUCTION. quently referred to considerations of this kind. I have endeavoured to show how well adapted is the science of living creation to elevate the mind, at the same time that it brings back our thoughts towards Him who has created all things. I will not, there- fore, here revert to this subject; but there is still another useful consequence to be deduced from zoological studies, to which I would now draw attention. The number of animals known to us at the present day may be counted by hundreds of thousands, and the most retentive memory would be unable to grasp even the mere names of all the species. To guide us through this labyrinth, zoologists have devised systematic methods of classification which are based upon the very nature of the animals themselves. The animal kingdom has been distributed over a sort of framework, whose divisions correspond with so many groups of facts and ideas which rise gra- dually from isolated details to the most extended generalisations. It is impossible to occupy oneself assiduously with studies of this kind without becoming in some degree imbued with their spirit. If it is useful to learn from mathematics how to reason in a logical manner on purely abstract questions, and if it is useful to acquire by means of physics and chemistry a spirit of experimenting, would it not be still more interesting to the minds of youth if they were taught to observe, to classify, and to co-ordinate masses of INTRODUCTION. XUl precise facts and ideas, based upon realities in such a manner as to enable them to seize upon their true relations and their most general consequences ? Would not the habits thus based upon a metho- dical system find constant application even in our daily lives ? Considered from this point of view, there is no science that can replace the natural sciences generally, and zoology more particularly. I have thus endeavoured to indicate the ideas by which I have been influenced in the composition of the present work, and it now only remains for me to say a few words regarding the mode of its exe- cution. In addressing myself to the habitual readers of the Revue des deux mondes I was speaking to an educated and intelligent class, who, however, have very little familiarity with the natural sciences. I was, therefore, obliged to proceed with some reserve, more especially at the beginning, and hence I almost always avoided entering into technical details, limit- ing myself almost exclusively to general questions. In this manner I often sought to imitate the phy- sician who envelopes in honey the unsavoury medi- cine which might otherwise be repulsive to his patient, and hence I have interwoven descriptive or historical details in nearly all the chapters of the work. Having yielded thus far to the necessities of the case, I devoted myself so much the more earnestly XIV INTRODUCTION. to the principal aim which I had in view. When- ever I was speaking of scientific matters I never allowed myself in the slightest degree to sacrifice the substance to the form. Here I was anxious to act the part of the zoologist as rigidly as if I had been engaged in compiling a work for my brother zoologists. The facts which I have brought forward in these Rambles may be found either in my own memoirs or in the scientific works of others, whilst the ideas which I have here developed are precisely the same as those which I have at all times advo- cated. Considered in this respect, these volumes might be entitled General Essays on Zoology and Physiology. In the notes which I have added to the present edition of these Rambles I have entered somewhat more freely into the technical character of some of the questions under consideration; I have given references to a large number of dif- ferent works and memoirs ; and, finally, I have ap- pended notices, which are of necessity very short, regarding the lives and the principal labours of the authors whom I have had occasion to quote. If I should be blamed for spending time upon this attempt to popularise science which I might have devoted to original researches, I would venture to urge in extenuation that La Place wrote his Expo- sition du Systeme du Monde, Cuvier his Discours sw les Revolutions du Globe, Arago his Notices, Flourens his Etudes and his Histoires, and Humboldt his INTRODUCTIOX, XV Views of Nature and his Cosmos. It has seemed to me that I could scarcely be committing an error, when I attempted to follow such examples as these, by endeavouring in my turn to make others com- prehend and appreciate a science to which I myself owe very many hours of unalloyed happiness. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAPTER I. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. Inferior animals in the neighbourhood of Paris. — Granville. — The tides. — The Archipelago of Chausey ; Grand- He. — Former connexion of Chausey \rith the continent; submarine forests. — Local traditions. — The farm. — The natives of Blainville ; Lobster and shrimp fishery. — The stone-cutters The barilla- collectors ; fabrication of soda. — Importance of the study of the more simply organised animals. — Zoological riches of Chausey. — The errant Annelids; Eunice; Cirrhatula. — Their weapons of offence and defence ; their enemies. — The Synapta of Duvernoy. — Sentiments awakened by the study of animal life. — Departure for St. Malo = - . - . Page l CHAP. IL THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. Journey from Paris to Paimpol. — The Archipelago of Brehat. — Its geological structure. — Ruins on some of the inhabited islands. — Grand- He. — Le Paon. — Population ; probable admixture of Basque and Breton blood. — Mildness of the climate. — The terrestrial Fauna ; the Black Rat. — The maritime Fauna. — The VOL. I. a XVlll CONTENTS OF animal series. — Ideal and derivative types. — Relations of or- ganised beings to one another. — General ideal type of a perfect animal. — Division of physiological labour. — Higher and lower animals : organic permanence of the former ; organic variability of the latter. — Subdivision of the Articulata. — True Annelids or Worms. — Tubiculous Annelids ; Chlorcema; Amphicora; Tere- bella ; Sabella. — Errant Annelids ; Chsetopterus ; Echiurus ; Sipunculus ; Dujardinia. — Anatomy of Eunice sanguinea Doyerina ; Aphlebina. — Organisation of Nemertes ; remarkable simplification. — Excursion to the lighthouse of Hehaux. — Descrip- tion of the tower. — Illuminating apparatus. — Historical Notices : Borda, Lemoine, Bufibn, Arago, Fresnel, the younger Francois. — Departure from Brehat - - - - Page 66 CHAP. III. THE COASTS OF SICILY. THE GROTTO OF SAN-CIRO. — TORRE DELL' ISOLA. Departure for Naples with MM. Milne Edwards and Blanchard. — Arrival in Sicily ; aspect of the Bay of Palermo. — Excursions to the grotto of San-Ciro. — Osseous caverns ; osseous breccias. — Installation on board the Santa Rosalie. — Departure from Palermo. — The grottoes of Mont Pellegrino. — The Blatta orientalis. — Arrival at Torre dell' Isola. — The Padre Antoniuo. — Structure of the coast. — Our sailors. — Explorations. — Trans- parence of the water in the bay. — Principal species belonging to the littoral districts. — Causeways built by the Vermetus. — Occupations ; mode of life. — Departure for Castellamare - 141 CHAP. IV. THE COASTS OF SICILY. THE GULF OF CASTELLAMARE — SANTO VITO, General aspect of the Gulf. — Formation of clouds in a clear sky. — Castellamare. — Excursion to the ruins of Segesta. — Departure ., for Santo- Vito. — Misadventures there. — Ants. — Researches of M. Edwards on the Acalephse, Bero'idse, and Stephanomise. — My observations on the mode of reproduction of the Syllis. — Repro- duction of the Medusae. — Curious approximation between the THE FIRST VOLUME. XIX Animal and the Vegetable Kingdoms. — Medusas and Fungi. — Studies of a diflferent kind, leading to the same result — General consequences - - - - ■ - Page 190 CHAR V. THE COASTS OiF SICILY. TRAPANI. — THE ISLANDS OF FAVIGNANA. Journey to Trapani. — The ancient splendour of that city. — The doves of Venus Erycina ; the women of San-Juliano. — Departure for the Islands of Favignana. — Cordial reception. — Geological structure of the islands. — Cultivation of the land and sources of industry Tunny fishery. — Researches on the circulation. — Independence of functions. — Progressive perfection of organisms. — Phlebenterism. — The labours of M. Edwards, and my own researches. — The opposition which these labours at first expe- rienced. — Applications. — General consequences - 234 Appendix ------ 279 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. CHAPTER I. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSET. Inferior animals in the neighbourhood of Paris. — Granville. — The tides. — The Archipelago of Chausey ; Grande-Ile. — Former connexion of Chausey with the continent ; submarine forests. — Local traditions. — The farm. — The natives of Blainville ; Lobster and shrimp fishery. — The stone-cutters, — The barilla- collectors ; fabrication of soda. — Importance of the study of the more simply organised animals. — Zoological riches of Chausey. — The errant Annelids; Eunice; Cirrhatula. — Their weapons of offence and defence ; their enemies. — The Synapta of Duvernoy. — Sentiments awakened by the study of animal life. — Departure for St. Malo. I HAD spent the spring of 1841 in studying some of the inferior forms of animal life which occur in the environs of Paris.* In the course of these researches I explored the ponds of Plessis-Piquet and Meudon, the stagnant pools around Yincennes, the basins in the gardens at Versailles, and even the ditches along * [M. de Quatrefages here inserts a note on the classification of the animal kingdom, which, in consequence of its length, we have transferred to the Appendix. See Appendix, Note I,] VOL. I. B 2 EAMBLES or A NATURALIST. the high roads. My table was daily covered with vessels containing the water which I had brought home with me from these excursions ; and while the aquatic plants that had been left undisturbed were exhibiting an active state of vegetation, the delicate filaments of their roots formed a place of retreat for thousands of those minute beings whose existence and marvellous organisation are only revealed to us by the microscope. There was the Rotifer, whose body, composed of rings fitting into one another like the tubes of a telescope, is provided on its anterior extremity with two wheel-like organs — a singular creature, which, although it can only truly live in water, inhabits the moss of our house-tops, dying each time the sun dries up its place of retreat, to revive as often as a shower of" rain supplies it with the liquid necessary to its existence, and thus em- ploying several years to exhaust the eighteen days of life which nature has accorded to it.* There was the Hydatina senta, an animalcule allied to the ro- tifer, whose aquatic existence is often cut short by drought, but whose ova, mingled with the dust of our roads, and borne aloft by the winds, are carried far from the place of their origin to some drop of water, where they undergo further development and secure the propagation of their species. The hy- datina is an exquisite little creature of such pure crystalline transparency that the microscope f — that * [A sketch of the natural history of the Rotifers and their allies is given in the Appendix, Note IL] f [We have transferred to the Appendix, Note III., a short history of the microscope, which the author had given as a foot note.] THE AECHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 6 wonder-revealing instrument — can penetrate even to the inmost recesses of its organisation.* Then there was the Brachionus, another genus of the class of rotifers, which, on the slightest indication of the ap- proach of danger, covers its long tail and ciliated head with its bristling cuirass. Next in order came some of those Diatomacece] , whose infinitely minute siliceous shields have offered a firmer resistance against the revolutions of our globe than the gigan- tic skeletons of the antediluvial monsters — organisms so microscopically minute that the point of a needle might at one touch crush hundreds of them, although their remains have combined to form entire rocks and extensive geological strata, known and worked for ages under the name of tripoli. Lastly there were Planarias J, and myriads of infusorial animal- * Hydatina senta belongs to the class of the Rotifers. It was on this species that Ehrenberg made his first observations on the com- plicated organism of these little animals. The hydatina is of very common occurrence in the neighbourhood of Paris, especially in the spring, when it is to be met with in the little pools of stagnant water on the road- side, and in the ruts made by carriage wheels. f The Diatoms constitute one of those groups regarding the position of which naturalists are still undecided ; some holding them to be vegetables, while others regard them as animals. Some of them, as the Naviculas, exhibit a slow and regular motion which appears to be the result of spontaneity. Many present forms of geometrical regularity, and their siliceous shields, transparent as the purest crystal, are moreover, marked with tracings of such extreme delicacy that every improvement in the microscope reveals to us new and previously unobserved details. X The Planarias belong to the great subdivision of the Vermes. They are flat, slightly elongated animals in which the two sexes are united ; they are provided with a digestive apparatus, which ramifies over the whole bodj, and they move by the aid of vibratile cilia, B 2 4 EAMBLES OP A NATURALIST. cules*, of every form and name, which multiply by self-division (fissiparous reproduction), so that it may literally be said that the son is half of his parent, and the grandson the quarter of his grandsire. Such studies are highly attractive even when con- sidered on the simple grounds of curiosity: this, however, is not their only claim upon our attention, for they possess another and a far greater source of interest. In the higher forms of animal life, the size and opacity of the organs do not allow of our study- ins: the mechanism of their actions and functions in the living state ; in their case we must content ourselves with the mere study of their anatomy. In the lower animals, on the other hand, we are enabled to trace the operations of nature at the very moment of their accomplishment : thus, for instance, in the animalcule we can follow the alimentary molecule from the very moment in which it is swallowed until it is rejected by the animal, after having yielded up all its nutritious matter. The changes which this molecule undergoes in its passage through the animalcule, and the successive action of the animal organs and fluids, are all displayed before ■with which the entire surface of the body is covered. These ■worms, whose anatomical structure presents many singularities, have been carefully studied by many naturalists, amongst whom may be especially mentioned Von Baer, Duges and De Quatrefages, CErsted, Von Siebold and Dalyell. * We have shown (see Appendix, Note I.) that the Infusoria must be provisionally regarded as forming a class of the subdivision of the globular Zoophytes. Amongst the principal writers on this group of animals we may especially mention O. F. Miiller, Ehren- berg, and Dujardin. THE ARCniPELAGO OF CHAUSET. 5 our eyes, so that these ciystalline organisms seem almost to invite science to raise a corner of the veil which conceals from us the mysteries of that which we term life. In the midst of these attractive studies I found that the field of my researches was continually gain- ing in extent and beauty. But I was desirous, before I advanced further on my present path of inquiry, to obtain new materials for comparison, and to in- vestigate, in a similar manner, those larger types of the inferior forms of animal life which are only to be found on the sea-shore. The ocean, to which I was still a stranger, attracted me in its varied coast lines, its innumerable zoological races, and its tides, which serve alternately to conceal and to reveal its treasures. These I resolved to explore ; but the difficulty was to make a selection among the many different points of our western shores. At last, however, I was led to decide in favour of a group of islands situated to the north-west of the Bay of St. Michael's Mount, and designated by the pompous title of the Archipelago of Cliausey. About the middle of June I packed up my dissecting instru- ments, a few books, numerous glass bottles and basins, my excellent Oberhauser microscope, my study lamp, maps of the islands of Chausey and of the Bay of St. jNlichael's Mount, and thus equipped I set forth on my scientific campaign. I will spare my readers the details of my journey, as nothing could be more thoroughly commonplace. I passed through Normandy under a cold and foggy sky; B 3 6 RAMBLES OF A NATUEALIST. stopped one day at Caen, and then, without further delay, pursued my way to Granville.* Here I made my first acquaintance with the ocean, and first learnt to understand the difference between the ebbing and flowing of the tides. How vastly different are the impressions produced by direct observation from those which we derive through books ! The gradual disappearance of the beautiful beach, which I had just trodden ; the sight of the waves dashing into foam as^ainst the rocks, which had only lately seemed so far removed from them ; the gentle lifting up of the ships, fishing-smacks and boats from the bed of black mud, in which they had been securely moored ; their successive rise, as each in its turn floated into deep water, — all these sights, everything around, filled me with sensations of Avonder and admiration. The tides are very strong at Granville and through the Channel generally ; the difference between high and low water being sometimes as much as forty feet. At some points, as, for instance, round Mount St. Michael f , the space which is alternately covered and * Granville is a little town in the department of La Manche. It is built on an elevated promontory which is almost entirely separated from the continent by a deep cutting. Its commodious and safe harbour was constructed in 1784, eight years after which the town made an honourable defence against the English. Its coasting trade, its oyster beds, and its cod fishery, render Granville one of the most busy of our smaller commercial sea-ports. f The space surrounding Mount St. Michael which is alternately covered and left bare by the tide amounts to 80 or 100 square miles. This low and nearly level beach is intersected by sevei'al streams, which frequently change their course, and thus render this THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 7 exposed forms a zone of several leagues in extent. The imagination stands appalled at the idea of the fluid masses which are thus swayed from shore to shore by the attraction of the sun and moon; and although a four months' sojourn on the sea-coast familiarised me with this phenomenon, it in no degree tended to diminish the admiration which it awakened in my mind on the first day of my arrival. The ancients characterised the land as their Alma parens ; yet how much more worthy does the ocean seem of this title ! The dweller on the earth must sow the seed, plant trees, or turn the soil with his plough before he can gather in the grain that is to nourish him, or pluck the fruit that is to quench his thirst. ^lonths, nay years, may pass before his labours Avill be recompensed, and perhaps at the very moment when he is about to reap the reward of his toil, a blast of w^ind, or a hail-storm, comes utterly to destroy his hopes. The ocean demands no such protracted waiting, and gives birth to no such painful disappointments. The tide falls ! — to work ! to work ! both young and old ! there is room for all, and labour proportioned to every age and to every degree of strength. The men and their sturdy help- mates, spade in hand, turn up the sand, which has coast extremely dangerous by tending to the formation of shifting sands. The mountain itself is merely a large graaite rock measuring about 1600 yards in circumference at the base, and which rises to a height of between 400 and 500 feet. The summit is entirely covered with the castle which once played a prominent part in the wars of the Middle Ages ; but is now merely employed as a state prison. B 4 » RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. been covered by the sea for some hours, and soon their baskets are filled with cockles, razor-fishes, and venuses, which although less delicate, are more nou- rishing than oysters ; besides these, there is also the sand-eel (^Ammodytes tohianus et A. lancea), a little fish which is held in high esteem, but which is not as easily captured as the shell-fish, for it loves to hide itself under the sand, where it moves about with marvellous agility. During this time the young girls are dropping their pocket-like nets into the pools, which have been left by the retiring tide, busily em- l^loyed in collecting shrimps, or in catching some lobster or crab, or perchance, even some stray shore- fish, which has been arrested before it could regain its distant place of retreat. Others, armed with a stick, terminating in a strong hook, scrape the sand below the stones and hollows of the rock, and from time to time draw forth a conger -eel with glistening skin, or some cuttle-fish or calamary, which vainly attempts to escape by shrouding itself in a .cloud of ink. The children in the meantime gather from the rocks limpets, periwinkles, whelks, roaring buckles, ormers, or mussels, which hang clustering together like bunches of grapes, suspended by the threads of the byssus, which the animal weaves for itself. For two or three hours the beach is full of life and activity, whilst a whole population pours forth to seek its daily food ; but soon the waves return towards the shore, the tide rises, and all hasten homeward, certain that the sea will rej^lace the bounteous o-ifts which it is takino; from them, and that in a few hours they may come forth again THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. \) to reap a harvest which has needed no season of planting or of sowing. 1 was the bearer of a letter of introduction to M. Beautemps, the nephew of the celebrated engineer and hydrographer, to whom we are indebted for the magnificent hydrogra'phical Atlas of the Coasts of France. I took the earliest occasion of presenting this letter, and, thanks to M. Beautemps, I made the acquaintance of M. Harasse, the proprietor of the islands of Chausey, and of M. Dubreuil, who was then in command of the coast-guard vessel, the Moustique. The former of these gentlemen gave me permission to establish myself on his property, and even accorded me the use of a room in one of the buildings set apart for the managers and for the pre- servation of the farm stores, whilst the latter under- took to convey me to my new residence. At six o'clock the next morning I embarked on board the Moustique, which at once heaved its anchor and left the harbour of Granville. The sea was running very high, and the wind being against us, we were obliged to tack. To confess the truth, this voyage proved a severe trial to me, for after having earned the congratulations of the commander for my good sailorship, I was compelled to retreat to the cabin, where for three hours I remained a victim to all the horrors of sea-sickness. But at length these miseries were terminated by the Moustique gliding into the smoother water of the Chausey harbour, where the fresh north-west breeze soon restored my wonted courage. In the course of a few minutes I had landed and 10 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. taken possession of my domicile. It was a large room, whose walls, blackened by damp, showed only here and there some problematical traces of former painting. On an uneven floor stood a large square table, another and smaller table, a few chairs, and a cupboard. A bed-frame, suspended from the ceiling by four ropes, and furnished with a few handfuls of straw and a mattress two inches thick, w^as to serve me in the place of a hammock. The apartment had one narrow and low window looking northward upon a small arm of the sea. It must be confessed that there was nothing very cheering in this tout- en- semble ; but the attraction of novelty and the hope of future discoveries gave brightness to my walls and furniture, and diffused an air of comfort over everything ; so that I was soon contentedly installed in my new quarters. The large table, firmly propped up against the wall, was converted into a working place, my microscope and lenses were arranged on the best lighted angle, some of my bottles stood near them, and the rest of the space was occupied by my forceps, scalpels, and crayons. I placed my books and the surplus of my bottles and jars on the chimney-piece. Large earthenware pans were ranged around the room. Everything, indeed, was disposed of in the best possible manner ; but this admirable arrangement soon gave place to the disorder which so speedily takes possession of the quarters of a hard- working naturalist. The little table, which had at first been reserved for my meals, was speedily covered with my objects of research, and I was very often THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 11 compelled to substitute for it a chair, which required to be cleared for the purpose. As soon as my preliminary arrangements were completed, I set forth to reconnoitre the territory which I intended to explore in the cause of zoology. The farm-house in which I was domiciled was built on the side of a small arm of the sea, called the Sound of Chausey. It consisted of two wings, one of which contained the stables, and apartments for the servants and men on the farm ; the other was occu- pied by the baking-house, the manager's room, and the apartments reserved for the use of the proprietor. This double house was built of native granite, and constituted the capital of the archipelago; and the employes, Avho represented the aristocracy of the community, were so thoroughly sensible of their own importance that they had very little intercourse with the rest of the inhabitants. Leaving the farm- buildings, I took the first path which presented itself, and crossed a marshy common, the favourite resort of the wild geese and ducks, which come in winter to breed on these inaccessible shores. A few paces further on a narrow and sandy isthmus led me to the foot of Gros Mont, the highest mountain of the archipelago, and from its elevated summit I could embrace in one glance all that the horizon encompassed. On every side of me was spread the ocean, which in the west was bounded only by the sky. To the south tlie view terminated with the coasts of Brittany, which scarcely rose above the line of the waves. Towards the east I could clearly distinguish the rugged shores of Nor- 12 RAMBLES or A NATURALIST. mandy and the towers of Coutances, which may be seen, it is said, from a distance of thirty miles.* To the north I could discern Jersey, an island which, to the shame of our successive governments, still belongs to the English, and where the ancient cus- toms of France and our beautiful langue cVoil have been preserved to the present day. At my feet the archipelago seemed to form a semicircle, intersected by channels, which were traversed from time to time by square-sailed boats, and studded over with its hundred of rocks and strangely- shaped islets, whose sides were either hollowed by deep creeks and bays, or flanked by bristling promontories. Grande-Ile, on which I had taken up my abode, is about a quarter of a league in length, but of much less considerable breadth; indeed, its area scarcely equals that of the Jardin des Plantes. It descends in the east by a gentle slope to the Sound, whose narrow and deep channel is always open, and affords at all times perfectly safe anchorage. To the north rises Gros Mont, on which I was standing. Towards the south the island terminates in an elevated cape, called Pointe-Marie. The western coast is formed by a succession of hills, one of which, known as the Mont de Bretagne, is surmounted by the ruins of an ancient fort, commanding the beautiful beach of Port Homard. On the inner slope of these * Coutances, -which was formerly called Cosedia and subsequently Constantia Castra, is one of the most ancient towns of the depart- ment of La Manche. It has given its name to the territory known as Le Cotentin. Its cathedral is one of the roost remarkable monuments of the ancient province of Normandy. THE AKCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 13 miniature mountains are several cultivated fields and two meadows, which extend as far as the farm buildino;s. The rest of the island is uncultivated, and covered with that fine and close o;rass which o-rows on hio^h mountains. The graminese enter largely into the composition of this herbage, but it is also intermingled with some pretty violet-coloured bulbous roots, and a large number of papilionaceous plants with golden- coloured corollas. The wild thyme was conspicuous everywhere, with its dark green patches, dotted over with little tufts of purple blossoms. Here and there a trailing rose-bush threw up small shoots of one or two inches in height, crowned with a delicate pink flower, or a berry as bright and as red as the finest coral. On the side of the rocks, which every- where pierce the thin layer of vegetable mould, are thick bramble bushes, whilst the sheltered spots abound with peppermint, borage, and wild mustard. The portion of Mont de Bretagne which formerly served as a burying-ground has been planted with broom, which has thriven admirably, and now furnishes fuel for the ovens. To the north-west of Grande-Ile lies a group of smaller islands which present some slight vegetation. These are La Genetaie, Houssaie, La Meule, and Ile-aux-Oiseaux. To the north and west lie Enseigne, Plate-lie, Deux Romonts, and Longue-Ile. Here the velvet-like sward, of which we have already spoken, is replaced by a high and mixed grass, which is cut every year. During the revolutionary wars, Chausey remained uninhabited, owing to its exposure to the inroads of 14 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. the Jersey pirates. Two mammifers, — both belong- ing to the order of the Rodents, and both remarkable for their fecundity, — the rat and the rabbit, profited by the absence of human inhabitants, and disputed the possession of these deserted rocks. When France, yielding to her destiny, was compelled to submit to the Treaties of 1815, Chausey began to be re-peopled, and French and Englishmen, after their long contests on the fields of battle, combined together against the usurping quadrupeds. Guns, dogs, and traps Avere all brought into requisition ; and to escape this war of extermination, the rats took refuge in the western islands, where they are suffered to remain unmolested excepting at the time of the hay harvest. Not even the remotest rocks, however, could serve as an asylum for the unfortunate rabbits, for the Jerseymen pursued them with their ferrets ; and now, the last descendants of this once numerous population are disappearing, one by one, before the attacks of these formidable accents of destruction. The only representative of the class of reptiles which I met with at Chausey was a pretty variety of the grey lizard*, remarkable for the brightness of its colours. Of birds, on the contrary, there were numerous species. The sparrows, those never-falling attendants on the footsteps of man, have estab- lished tlielr general quarters in the ruins of the old castle. t Troops of linnets and goldfinches pass * We have in France, according to Duges, five species of lizards : (^Lacerta ocellata, L. viridis, L. velox, L. edwardsiana, L. stirpium, and L. muralis.) The last of these, the grey lizard, that frequents old -svalls, is the most common of all. f The Fringilla domestica, or common sparrow, is one of the most THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 15 incessantly from one little hillock to another, whilst the plaintive cry of the wheat-eater is heard at every instant, as he flits from rock to rock. In crossing the sands, which had been left dry by the last tide, I encountered a considerable number of shore birds, which had come thither in search of food. The sea- pies (Hcamato-pus), and sand-pipers ( Tringa) picked their way along every indentation of the shore ; the god-wits {Limosa), and the curlews {Numeniiis\ with universally distributed species of birds. It is of European origin, but it has accompanied many of our navigators, penetrating even as far as New Holland. Every one is well acquainted with the effrontery, voracity, and fecundity of these common birds, and con- sequently it is easy to comprehend how much injury they must commit. M. Rouyer de la Bergerie estimates the amount of corn eaten by every sparrow annually to be about one bushel. From this we may judge of the immense quantity of grain which is annually lost through the depredations of these birds. It must, however, be admitted that these voracious thieves render a real service to agriculture. When first the young sparrow breaks through the eg^, it requires to be fed with some substance more tender and soft than the ordinary cereals, and on this account the parent birds supply it with grubs. Bradley has calculated, from repeated observations, that a couple of old sparrows will convey to their nest no less than 40 grubs every hour, which would give 480 grubs for the twelve hours of the day, and 3360 for each week's consumption. These numbers will explain a circumstance which occurred thirty years ago. With a view of protecting the neigh- bourhood of Vienna from the voracity of these birds, an order was published that every cultivator of the ground should, in addition to his other contributions, furnish the heads of two sparrows. This regulation was faithfully obeyed, and the sparrows rapidly disap- peared, bvit on the other hand, all the trees in the neighbourhood were being devoured by caterpillars. It was therefore found necessary to repeal the decree, and for a time at least to encourage by every means the multiplication of the same birds which had been so ruthlessly destroyed. 16 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. their long, slender, and curved beaks, swarmed in every muddy creek ; the solitary heron sat mournful and motionless upon a stone by the water's edge, waiting, with its proverbial patience, until some im- prudent prey should pass within reach of its beak, whilst above his head the sea swallows {Sterna), and gulls (Larus), described a thousand circles in their rapid flight as they uttered their discordant cries; and then, after gently sinking to the surface of the water, rose by a sudden movement of their wings, after having seized the fish, Avhich their piercing sio'ht had detected below the waves. On returning from my first excursion, I skirted along the garden of the farm, — a badly kept plot of ground, in w^hich grew a few dwarf apple-trees, and two poor fig-trees. Here, at the foot of a small hollow, and near a clump of young willows, I dis- covered the spring, whose existence has alone been able to render Chausey habitable. The presence of a spring upon this block of granite, at several leagues from the coast of the main land, is a very curious circumstance, and somewhat difficult of explanation. The neighbouring land is not sufficiently extensive, and is, moreover, too shallow to allow of the sup- position that its infiltrations are adequate for the supply of this spring. On the other hand, it is not easy to suppose that it should owe its origin to the continent across the twisted strata of those is^neous rocks ; yet this latter hypothesis is the less improbable of the two. However this may be, the water of this spring, which never dries, is excellent, and the coast- guard vessels always resort to it for their own use, as THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 17 they find it far preferable to any which they can procure at the adjoining ports. The Archipelago of Chausey is essentially formed of a bluisli-grey granite, separated into more or less extensive strata, whose regular and uniform disposition is easily recognised to the south and south-west of Grande-Ile, as well as all round En- seigne. These strata, which are almost horizontal in the centre of the islands, incline towards the shore, and sink into the sea at an acute angle. Fis- sures, pe^endicular to the plane of the strata, inter- secting ^^^h other at various angles, divide the rock still more, and facilitate its working.* A red friable stone, known in the country as rotten stone, fills these interstices. Veins of pegmatite, which when de- composed forms the kaolin used in the manufacture of porcelain, intersect these granitic masses, which are also interspersed with detached portions of quartz * There is a very curious circumstance connected with the work- ing of the granite at Chausey which, however, is often observed in other rocks of a compact structure. Before any considerable mass of the stone is detached, a narrow line of about an inch in depth is traced along the rock, and into this groove wedges of soft iron are placed side by side. These wedges are then alternately struck with a moderate degree of force, when, after a certain time, a sort of musical sound is heard to proceed from thq stone, which indicates that it has been split through the entire mass. Nothing now remains to be done but to detach the fragment which has been thus obtained. "When the rock is very homogeneous, the fracture is prolonged with much regularity, until it meets the adjoining grooves, excepting in case of its coming in contact with rotten stone. I have seen this method employed to detach blocks of granite which were fully a foot in thickness and more than fifty feet square, and in all cases the sides of the mass were perfectly parallel and smooth. VOL. I. C 18 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. and veins of mica. No part exhibits the slightest trace of the pudding-stone and rose granite of Jersey, or of the schist, trap, or quartz rocks so common at St. Malo. The rock of Chausey does not, either, resemble that of Granville ; hence every- thing disposes us to regard this district as being merely indirectly connected with the neighbouring formations. During high tide, an observer standing on Gros Mont sees only fifteen islands around him, and these are almost on a level with the surrounding liquid plain. One by one some isolated rock de- taches itself from the green bed of the ocean, and arrests the waves as they break in white foam against its blackened summit. But soon the tide is seen to ebb; the sea, after some oscillation, begins to fall. The islands gradually become larger, girding them- selves with a broad belt of moss-covered and black- ened rocks, festooned by long pendants of brown fucus, which hang from their sides like the marble reeds with which sculptors adorn their statues of river gods. Numerous rocks, covered with the same vegetation, seem to emerge on every side and rapidly multiplying, end by mingling together into one mass. At length, long banks of yellow sands come to view, vast prairies of the zostera* rise from be- neath the waves, and, uniting the points which had before been severed, convert the archipelago into * Zostera constitutes a genus of marine plants which grow sub- merged in almost all seas, being usually found near the coast ; the species to which we here refer (Z. marina) is remarkable for the length of its leaves, which look like long, narrow, and thin green ribbons. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 19 one large island, whose circuit, which is about twenty-one miles, is broken here and there by the indentation of some few and narrow channels. It is difficult to conceive anything more desolate than the appearance of certain parts of Chausey, more especially the north-west angle, at low tide. One might also fancy that the islands were the mere debris of some mountain hurled pell-mell into the middle of the ocean. Blocks of every variety of form and size are grouped together in a thousand different ways, some rising into pyramids, others graduated and cut into irregular tiers of steps, others again heaped together into confused masses like the ruins of some giant structure, at one place up- heaved like colossal Druidical stones, at another entangled together like the rude materials of some Cyclopean edifice, or else suspended and so slightly poised, that a breath of air seems sufficient to over- throw them. The first appearance of this frightful picture of chaos leads one to refer the disorder to one of those o-reat convulsions of nature which have upheaved mountain chains and excavated ocean beds. But this conjecture is incorrect ; for the slow but incessant action of atmospheric agents, joined to the reiterated shock of the waves, has sufficed to produce this disarrangement, which moreover exists only on the surface. With a little attention, one may easily discover the regular stratification of the islands below these powerfully-shaken blocks, and we may thus the more readily explain a phenomenon which is of daily recurrence. We have seen that tlie geological framework of c 2 20 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Cliausey is entirely granitic, and very probably owed its existence to a special ebullition of that o^reat central fire whose fluid lava has contributed to the formation of the thin crust which we in- habit. When this incandescent mass issued from the interior of the earth, it rapidly cooled. This cooling process was followed by the sudden retreat of the fluid masses, and this gave rise to intersecting fissures which were soon filled with debris that have produced the rotten stone. The latter is unable to offer any prolonged resistance to the shock of the waves ; and, by its disintegration, it isolates the more compact blocks, which, notwithstanding their enormous weight, are often transported to consider- able distances by the force of the sea. During my stay in the archipelago a section of rock, nearly 1000 tons in weight, was detached from the main mass, and hurled to a distance of several yards by the action of the waves, at a time when the fishermen were able to pursue - their ordinary daily avocations. It Avould appear that the Chausey islands have not always been as far removed from the continent as they are at the present time. According to a tradition wdiich is universally diffused over the dis- trict, this granitic mass once formed the head of a dyke of rocks, protecting vast morasses and a con- siderable forest, wdiich is now submerged beneath the waters. Some writers have even thought that they were justified by ancient documents in referring the probable date of this catastrophe to the year 709 of our era. Geological facts give a certain degree THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 21 of value to this popular belief; and the vegetable strata, known under the name of submarine forests, which occur in the vicinity of Mount St. Michael, appear to afford it full confirmation. When a violent tempest breaks upon the shore and upheaves the sur- face these ancient deposits, which are habitually covered with mud or white sand, sometimes come to view. Whenever this occurs the fine sands dis- appear beneath a blackish earth, which encloses entire trees, ranged in a uniform direction, in strata, above one another. The various species are easily distinguished ; of these the oak, the yew, and the birch are the most common. The trunks of these trees seem first to have been reduced to a state of mould, and subsequently, on exposure to the air, to have regained consistency of texture and to have acquired a darker shade of colour. The oak espe- cially exhibits the hardness and shining black tinge of ebony ; and hence it is employed for the same purposes and used in the manufacture of ornamental furniture. These trees rest upon a soil which appears to have been meadow-land. We find among them reeds, grasses, ferns, &c. All these plants are in their natural positions, and have preserved all their most delicate parts ; the reeds still contain a light medullary pith, and the roots of the ferns exhibit the delicate loose ' downy hairs with which they are covered during the period of their vegetation. Whatever may have been the ancient relations subsisting between the Chausey isles and the main- land, the archipelago certainly, at one time, enjoyed a \erj different degree of importance from that which C 3 22 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. it at present possesses. This little corner of tlie earth has its history no less than the greatest empires. There existed here in ancient days an abbey, which after having been originally independent became tributary to the monastery of Mount St. Michael, in conformity with a decree of Kichard I. Duke of Normandy. It was originally held by the Bene- dictines ; but towards the year 1343, Philip of Valois bestowed it upon the Cordeliers. The numbers of the religious community were very considerable at that time, as is proved by the registers of the Bishopric of Coutances, and as we find attested by the tombs, discovered some years ago when a part of Grande-Ile was laid down in pasturage land. If we are to believe the current tradition, these early proprietors of Chausey were far from leading lives in conformity with their sacred character. Ship- wrecks formed the principal branch of their revenues, and not contented with pillaging the wrecks, which chance or storms threw upon the coast, they kindled beacon-lights on the points of greatest danger in order to allure the trusting mariners to certain de- struction. It is added that those poor wretches who escaped from shipwreck met with a speedy death on these inhospitable shores. The women alone were spared, and, when they refused to yield to the desires of the monks, they were precipitated into a cavern communicating with the sea, where the next tide must have terminated their troubles. I was shown in one corner of the ruins of the old fort a square ditch, half filled with stones, which I was assured had served as the opening to these terrible oubliettes. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 23 It will readily be supposed that superstitious fears have become intimately associated with these lus^u- brious memorials of former times. When the ruins are shrouded in night, and when a sudden squall from the west throws over them the light spray of the waves, there is not an inhabitant of Chausey who would venture to approach them, or who would dare to expose himself to the risk of seeing the red flames which flicker round the court of the old castle, or of hearino; the o-roans which, issuins; from the sides of the rock, are lost amid the crash of the storm. Chausey has, however, more modern and more cheerful traditions. I heard much of M. Beautemps- Beaupre and of his labours ; and I was also informed that several years before two gentlemen had come to instal themselves on the island, accompanied by their young wives. For four months they had explored the shore, ransacked the sands, and examined the ledges of rocks. Besides this they had established, in the neighbourhood of the farm, tanks filled with sea-water, communicating with tubes, and in these portable pools and artificial rivers they had kept all kinds of marine animals. These practices had given rise to a very large consumption of lobsters and crabs, not that the gentlemen devoured them, but they cut them up, dismembered them, syringed them, and examined them with strano-e-lookino; instruments. When the husbands went out fishing their wives accompanied them, and in all respects led an equally exposed life. When they were not engaged in these excursions the latter devoted their time to household duties and to drawing. At this time an epidemic c 4 24 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. form of fever was rcwino; on the island. The two young couj)les visited the sick, and cured them with a marvellous plant, whose name no one knew. I had no difficulty in interpreting this legend, for I knew all the actors. The fact is, that it was at Chausey that MM. Milne Edwards and Audouin* commenced those inquiries which subsequently led to their introduction to the Academy. It was here that they entered upon those splendid researches on the circulation and the nervous system of the crustaceans, which, although they furnished a refutation of the opinions of Cuvier, were frankly recognised by that great man, whose heart was too noble to harbour any paltry feeling of jealousy. And it was Milne Edwards and Audouin who, through their medical knowledge, had been able to cure many sufferers by the aid of some hygienic precautions and a few cups of tea ! Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, Chausey, having been abandoned by the monks, was transformed into a military post, and subse- quently, a short time before the revolution, it fell into the hands of a private individual. During our maritime wars, a poor woman, the widow of a sea- faring man, remained alone in the farm buildings ; and her presence seems to have protected them' from the attacks of the Jersey freebooters, who were then the only persons that frequented this little archipelago, their personal interest leading them, no * [A sketch of the chief natural-history labours of Milne Edwards and Audouin is given in the Appendix, Note IV. ] THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSET. 25 doubt, to preserve a thrifty housewife, who was often called upon to prepare their scanty meals and perform other useful services for them. After the peace. Mere Lehuffe, as she was generally called, retained the management of the farm until her age and infirmities rendered it impossible for her to fulfil the duties of this office. At the time of my voyage she was still living at Granville, in the enjoyment of a pension which her old master had settled upon her in acknowledgment of her long and arduous services. At the present time, in consequence of the impor- tance which Chausey has acquired, a special manager is appointed to take charge of the supplies of food. He has also under his orders a farmer, a baker, two farm-boys, and two women, who attend more par- ticularly to the care of the cattle and to the indoors work. "The post of Manager of Chausey is in great request, and gives rise to as many intrigues as the portfolio of minister under a constitutional king could possibly excite. Thus revolutions are not of rare occurrence in this little government, and I had the pleasure of watching one through all its various phases. I had been received on my arrival by an old man, who had foi^merly acted as master of a coasting- trader, but who for a number of years had performed the important duties of vicegerent to M. Harasse. A few days afterwards vague rumours informed me that he was going to be superseded, and, accordingly, one fine morning, the Utile, a small coasting vessel which was constantly engaged in the service of the island, set sail with our great official and all his 26 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. family, and on its return to the archipelago brought us another manager. Those of the islanders who had been the promoters of this measure gave them- selves an incredible amount of trouble to make a noise in honour of the new-comer. They lighted fires around the flagstaff, fired guns and pistols, and cried till they were hoarse, Vive le Gouverneur ! There were only two or three of these enthusiasts, and during their demonstrations the rest of the population quietly pursued their labours, and did not even for a moment suspend any of their ordinary avocations. Was not this a miniature representation of the history of our great revolutions ? In addition to the persons who are employed upon the farm, and who form a special body, Chausey maintains three totally distinct classes of inhabitants ; the stone-cutters, fishermen, and barilla-collectors. The highest of these three classes is, undoubtedly, the fishing community, whose seven or eight families inhabit a small cape on the opposite side of the port of Chausey. An old boat, turned on end at the foot of some rock, forms the roof of their cabins, and is kept in its place by stones cemented together with the argillaceous mud of the Sound. One of these huts, from ten to twelve feet square, and three to four feet high, serves as a sleeping-place for a whole family, including the father, mother, sons, daughters, nephews, and nieces, and often various friends who have been attracted by the prospect of a day's fishing at spring tide. These fisher families are natives of Blainville, a little port situated on the coast of Nor- mandy, who resort year by year to Chausey to catch THE ARCHIPELAGO OE CHAUSEY. 27 the lobsters which supply the Paris market. They employ for this purpose baskets or creels in the form of a truncated cone, surmounted by an opening which is so adjusted that the lobster cannot escape after having once passed through the aperture. Every fortnight at neap-tide the produce of the fishing is carried to Coutances, where it is bought up in the gross and despatched to the capital. The number of lobsters which each family takes during the season may be estimated at about a thousand or twelve hundred. Chausey, therefore, exports annually from eight to nine thousand of these crustaceans, the returns for which, paid at Coutances, amount to ten or twelve thousand francs. It would thus appear that each master-fisherman realises rather less than thirteen or fourteen hundred francs for his arduous labours, which are continued for nearly nine months. The shrimp-fishing is left entirely to the women, nine or ten of whom carry on this humble branch of business. Supporting their nets upon their shoulders they follow every indentation of the shore, carefully searching the under surfaces of stones and the pools in which these little crustaceans lie concealed ; with care they may collect as many as four and a half pounds weight in the course of the day : but this branch of fishing is impracticable excepting when the tides are low. The total produce cannot be estimated at more than from four to six hundred- weight for each person ; this, therefore, would give about two and a half tons weight of shrimps for the annual supply of Chausey, the greater part of which 28 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. is also disposed of at Paris. This branch of com- merce brings in about eight hundred francs a head to the Blainville women, or nearly eight thousand francs in all. I should have found considerable difficulty in exploring the extreme points of the archipelago had I not met with one of the Blainville fishermen, who undertook to serve as my gondolier. This man. Master Hyacinthe Forcel, was a very worthy person, and under his guidance I was enabled safely to ex- plore all the lagoons of my rocky Venice. Tall of stature and of athletic strength, he joined to these advantages, which are so invaluable in his profession, an amount of intelligence very rare in one of his class, while his courage was equal to any emergency. Always ready to expose his life to save that of others, he ' had rescued a number of persons from certain death, without having ever claimed the recompense which the State awards in these cases ; but at length one of these acts of devoted heroism was witnessed by a Commissioner of Marine, who took care that this brave mariner should receive the medal to which he had so many claims. The stone-cutters form the second caste, and com- pose the most considerable portion of the inhabitants of Chausey. The great works which, for the last few years, have been in the course of erection at Granville and St. Malo, have brought the granite of the archipelago into great demand ; indeed, the paving-stones of the trottoirs of Paris have chiefly been obtained of late years from the same locality. During my stay the numbers of these quarry men THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 29 amounted to one hundred and twenty or thirty : almost all the men were Bretons from St. Malo and its immediate vicinity. They lived in wooden bar- racks or huts, about ten of which, grouped around Port Marie, composed the hamlet known as the St. Malo village. Tv^^o of their huts were used as can- teens, in which tobacco, cider, and brandy were sold ; a third was employed as a smithy : each of the other huts served as a sleeping place for some dozen work- men, Avhose beds were ranged in tiers above each other. In almost every case the wife of one of the men was charged with the duty of cooking for the community, and in that case she shared the room with the rest, from whom she was only separated by a coarse canvas curtain. Finally, Ave come to the barilla-collectors, who constitute the lowest class among the population. These workmen come, year by year, from the neigh- bourhood of Brest and Cherbourg, to collect the wrack, or seaweed, from the submerged rocks of Chausey, and convert it into soda by burning. The men disperse themselves in parties of six over the archipelago, and construct a sort of shed in the centre of the circuit they intend to explore, and here they take shelter for the night. At low tide they strip the fucus from the rocks*, and collect it into large masses, which are sustained upon the surface of the * The diflferent kiuds of fucus employed in the fabrication of soda or for manuring the land on our western sea-coasts are the Fucus nodosus, commonly called in England, knobbed wrack, or sea-whistle, F. vesiculosus, known as bladder fucus, and F. serratus, known as black wrack, or prickly tang. 30 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. water by the numerous air-vessels with which these marine plants are provided. These raft-like floating masses are then directed towards the spot which has been selected for the scene of operation, and after beino; broug;ht out of reach of the waves, are scat- tered over the sands. When the fucus is thoroughly dried it is raked together and burnt, and the ashes are then collected in a small kiln, and melted, form- ing the substance known in commerce as barilla. The red light given forth at night, and the long columns of smoke which issue by day from these smouldering heaps, produce a very picturesque effect from the midst of the rocks, but the odour emitted from the smoke is extremely offensive ; and on the islands it is considered, although certainly most un- justly, that it may engender every kind of disease. One occasionally meets, upon the most isolated points of the archipelago, with families of Jersey- men who have come either for the purpose of fishing or of collecting the Avrack Avhich serves to manure their land. Woe betide these poor fellows if they are detected by the coast-guard ; no mercy is shown them ; their lines and nets are unceremoniously taken from them and their boats put into pound. The islanders, moreover, frequently take upon themselves to inflict summary punishment on the marauders. During my stay a circumstance of this kind occurred which nearly brought about serious disturbances. Some fishermen had come over from Jersey at the time of spring-tide, and had actually begun to block up Port Homard at a few paces from the dwelling- houses. A party of stone-cutters hastened to the THE AECHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 31 spot, took possession of all the fish which the men had caught, and cut up their nets. This act was loudly blamed by several of their companions ; and as the expedition occurred in the night of Saturday and Sunday, the discussions to which it gave rise at the canteen soon terminated in quarrelling. The opposing parties came to blows, and on the following day two of the men were laid up from the effects of the fight. Scenes of this kind were by no means of rare occurrence in this remote region, where policemen are unknown, and where a half-civilised class of men are left to appeal, whenever it pleases them, to the rio:ht of the stronsfer. Dissensions would have been still more frequent bad it not been for the presence of an old theological student of the name of Lecam, who, from some inaptitude for his calling, had been led to forsake his studies and enrol himself among the stone-cutters. This man, after having nearly completed his theological education, visited many large cities, where he so assiduously frequented theatres and other similar places of resort that he exhibited some slisfht de2;ree of confusion in his recollections, and nothing was more amusing than to see him between two adversaries endeavouring to reconcile them, quoting a verse from the Proverbs or Ecclesiastes to one, and a passage from a modern drama or a couplet from a vaudeville to another, but ending almost always by re-establishing a good un- derstanding between the opponents. His jovial humour, and his insatiable powers of eating and drinking, made him popular amongst all his com- 32 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. panlons, with whom he was accustomed to start some philosophical discussion whenever he happened to be tired of singing. I used to hear these singular debates from my room, and I was frequently amused at the ingenuity and good sense shown by these simple workmen in the course of their arguments. Thus the Norman and Breton races meet at Chausey, displaying a peculiarity of disposition and manners which separates them quite as thoroughly as the difference in their occupations. The stone- cutters lead nearly the same kind of life as the day- labourers of our large towns ; almost all of them spend Sunday in drinking and keep Monday as a holiday. The fishermen are alike sober and indus- trious, whilst the barilla-collectors seem, by their coarse and brutal habits, to justify the proverbial expression, " hete comme un harilleurP While the summer lasts, the narrow and sloping surface of Grrande-Ile is enlivened by the presence of nearly two hundred persons. Night and morning the Blalnville women resort to the sands of the archipelago, whilst the men, detaching their boats from the shore, row off in different directions to examine their lobster pots. The fires of the barilla-burners throw up their Ions: columns of whitish smoke, or orleam throuoh the darkness of night like so many beacon-lights. From morning till evening the noise of the pickaxe and hammer resounds from the depths of the quarries and the sides of the hills, while, from time to time, the banks re-echo with the rumbling crash produced by the blasting of the rock. But on the first ap- pearance of the equinoctial rains of autumn, at the THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 33 first touch of coldj these nomadic populations dis- perse. The barilla-collectors are the first to take their departure, soon afterwards the numbers of the quarrymen diminish, and, last of all, the fishermen return to the sandy harbour of Blainville, when the islands are again left to the exclusive possession of the farming community, and of two or three families of stone-cutters. My arrival in the island produced quite a sensa- tion. On the very first day the whole of the little republic knew that a doctor had come to spend some time amongst them, and before three days had passed my talents had been brought into requisition. Being anxious to visit the western group of islands, I had just crossed to Genetaie, when I heard some one calling to me in a loud voice. I was soon joined by a young man, who, breathless and with tears in his eyes, implored me to come to the aid of his father. I returned in haste, and found that it was quite time that I should do so. Not being sufficiently acquainted with the course of the tides, I had set out too late, and the tide having turned, the sea had already covered the sand-banks which a short time before 1 had crossed without wetting my feet. Ten minutes more would have sufficed to shut off" all means of re- turn, and I should have been obliged to sleep in the open air, if it had not been for the accident which had happened to the poor bargeman. The serious nature of the occurrence had not been exaggerated. His finger had been caught by the rope of the cap- stan, whilst he was shipping a piece of stone of several thousand pounds' weight, and the joint was exposed VOL. I. D 34 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. to a considerable extent. I at first thought that amputation would be inevitable, but to mutilate a workman's right hand is much the same as to deprive him of his daily bread. Everything ought to be risked in order to avoid such a fearful calamity. Although I needed the most indispensable objects for regularly dressing a finger in this state, I did my best, and my attempts were crowned with unexpected success. At the end of three weeks the wound had cicatrised, and Master Balue preserved the use of his finger. Certes ! this was a case in which I might have exclaimed with our great Ambrose Pare, *^ I treated him, God healed him." The case nevertheless won for me a prodigious reputation on the island. As, moreover, my advice was given gratuitously, it was not long before I was assailed with consultations. One might almost have thought that the good people of Chausey availed themselves of the opportunity to be ill. It was not enough, however, to prescribe for them, it was equally necessary to make up my pre- scriptions ; and this embarrassed me not a little at first, for, although tavern-keepers are to be met with at Chausey, the islands cannot yet boast of a druggist. Happily for me, the flora of the island came to my aid, by furnishing me with the principal elements of my materia medica. With the help of mallow, which grows abundantly over all the archipelago, I was at no loss to prepare cataplasms and emollient tisanes ; docks, borage, peppermint and wild-thyme served me in the place of other tonic, sudorific, and stimulant agents. Whenever any more decidedly THE AKCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 35 pharmaceutical remedies were needed, I procured them from the main-land. By these means I was enabled to be of real use to these worthy people during my stay amongst them, and my attempts to serve them were rewarded by their unbounded affec- tion. It would have been hardly safe for any one to enter into a quarrel with me, when, on a Sunday evening, their sentiments of regard for my person were warmed by generous libations, for at such a time the whole island would have risen as a single man to defend Monsieur le docteur. I had not come to Chausey, however, to study statistics or practise medicine. The sole object of my travels was the sea ; the sole aim of my inquiries was to unravel some of the many mysteries which lie buried beneath its sands or hidden below its waves. The oceanic world with its marine creation in no way resembles the world revealed to us in the interior of continents, nor can our streams, ponds, or rivers, however large, afford us any idea of it. Side by side with those colossal monsters which man learns to overcome within the dreary depths of ocean ; side by side with innumerable productions that minister to our wants or our luxuries, and whose history is familiar to very children ; side by side with these dwell widely differing and strangely organised races, whose very existence is known only to a few. To observe these creatures we need enter upon no perilous enterprise such as the capture of the whale demands ; we require no immense nets such as are used in catching the tunny, herring, or mackerel ; we need no heavy dredge to scrape the bottom of the sea 36 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. and detach from its rocky sides the millions of oysters which daily load our tables : none of these are re- quired; we need only walk along the shores from which the sea has just retreated. An indifferent or careless observer might, indeed, perceive nothing more than sand, mud, and stones. But pause a a moment, stoop, and look down at your feet, and everywhere you will see life teeming around you in the form of myriads of strangely shaped and mar- vellously organised beings. First there are bodies formed like stones, then there are stones which have been in turn transferred from the animal to the vegetable kingdom*; here we meet with plants so nearly allied to animals that they have long been classed amongst them f ; next we encounter animals, which so closely resemble plants in respect to their stems, branches, and buds, that naturalists for ages believed in their vegetable nature. J On every side the sands and mud have been disturbed, tracked, burrowed, and pierced by marine worms ; the stones are covered with molluscs, polypes, and zoophytes of every kind, and even the very rocks seem rent * The greater part of the Nullipores, which were at one time ranked amongst plants, and subsequently among the Polypes, by the side of the Millepores, have been found by M. Decaisne to be mere stony concretions. f The Corallina, which has successively been placed in the three kingdoms of nature, is decidedly an alga, and consequently a plant, as M. Decaisne has shown by his researches. These plants, how- ever, become very rapidly encrusted with calcareous salts, a circum- stance which explains the difficulties attending their examination, and the errors to which it has given rise. "^ [A brief notice of the history of this controversy is given in the Appendix, Note V.] , THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 37 asunder to furnish a retreat within their narrow crevices for entire families of living beings. In physical science man controls, to a certain extent, the object of his investigations. Thus, for instance, in the examination of a machine he may successively study each of the parts, consider their respective actions, and judge of the effect of the whole. It is very different, however, in the case of the natural sciences generally, and especially of zoology. Here we must wait and watch. The multiplicity of vital acts in animals which occupy the highest places in the scale of being too frequently conceals the truth from us, while it is impossible for us to imitate the physicist in isolating a single phenomenon ; for when we do this, the whole is lost to our inquiry, and the animal ceases to exist. But in proportion as we descend the scale of being, we find that organisation is simplified, and that life, without being altered in its essential nature, is to a certain degree modified in its manifestations. The animal machine, if we may use the expression, is shown to us piece by piece, as if to reveal the action of its several parts, and to de- monstrate to us the great laws of physiology apart from all accessory phenomena. These laws are the same for the highest mammal and the lowest zoo- phyte ; the same for man, whose complicated anatomy has been studied for ages past, and for the sponge, whose organs appear to be blended into one sole living homogeneous mass, the smallest particle of which participates in all the properties accorded to the entire organism. It will be readily conceived how much interest attaches to observations such as D 3 38 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. thesGj which nature itself seems to have prepared for us, and how much science may be advanced by the profound study of beings so insignificant in appear- ance. I was most anxious to commence my observa- tions, and I, therefore, lost no time after I was once domiciled in setting to work with hearty good will. I was especially impatient to explore the Saca- viron, a narrow channel which separates Meule from Ile-aux-Oiseaux, whose zoological treasures have been made known by MM. Audouin and Milne Edwards. After having been disappointed, on ac- count of the prevalence of storms, 1 was at length enabled to visit it during the magnificent weather of our July spring tide. Imagine a narrow and deep valley, with precipitous rocks on either side, shining brightly in the sun wherever the granite had been denuded of its covering of fucus by the knife of the barilla-collector. At the bottom of this wild ravine, from which the ocean retreats only three or four times a year, a small stream of clear and limpid sea- water flows over pebbles which have been dyed every shade of colour by different kinds of Fucus, Coralline, Spongodium*, and other species of Algae. In this spot, where every stone is a world within itself, I was able to contemplate in its incredible variety the domain of the lower marine animals; here I could admire in all their glory those unknown wonders of the deep of which even our best museums afford not the least idea; for these animal forms droop and, as it were, fade from view whenever * The Spongodium is a plant belonging to the family of the Algse, looking very much like a green sponge. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 39 they are removed from their native element. The Turbo, the Buccinum, with its brown and white markings, the Rissoa, with its small, closely-twisted shell, and the Acorn shell*, with its pyramidal test, covered every stone and rock. In sheltered nooks I found the pretty little rose-coloured Cowrie, and large Chitons f, animals in which the back is covered by a solid cuirass composed of moveable pieces like the olden greaves. Then there was the Thetys|, a kind of sea slug; of a fine orang^e colour, which bears its tuft of branchife on the hindermost part of the back, and the Haliotis, with its nacreous shell, sur- rounded by a triple row of fringes. The vaulted roof of the little caverns, which had been formed by the crumbling away of the rocks, was clothed with a mammillated stratum of Simple Ascidians, a species of molluscs which live and die without ever having moved from the same spot ; while from this bright red ceiling there hung, like so many girandoles, trans- parent crystal-like Clavellinge, and the bright Botrylli, * The acorn shells {Balanus) constitute a genus of the class of the Cirripedes — animals allied in many respects to the Crustacea, but which undergo certain metamorphoses, which led Cuvier, even after he had studied their anatomy, to place them amongst the Mollusca. The discovery of their true nature is due to the Irish naturalist, J. W. Thomson (see his Zoological Researches and Illustrations). f The Cowries (Q/j3r«a), which are well known to all conchologists and amateur shell collectors, are molluscs belonging to the class of the Gasteropods. Chitons belong to the same class of molluscs, and are remarkable for the division of their test, or shell, which exhibits a series of imbricated semicircular rings placed along the back. J The Thetys belongs to the same class, but it has no trace of a test. D 4 40 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. whose conglomerated masses exhibit the colours and translucence of the as^ate. The smoother stones were all covered with Compound Ascidians, which were spread over the surface in shining green, brown, red, or violet patches, interspersed with markings of geometrical regularity, which severally indicated the different family groups of these singular beings. Among these animals, all of which belong to the great division of the mollusca, appeared thousands of zoophytes, while Star-fishes of the finest carmine, and grayish-brown Ophiuras, with their five long and slender arms, lay hidden beneath the stones. Above them the Flustra spread out its little stony weft, Sertularias and Campanularias raised aloft their ar- borescent polyparies, resembling miniature shrubs; while the Eschara threw its microscopic cellules over the stems and fronds of the marine plants.* Sponges of every form and colour were intertwined among the branches of the fucus and attached to the sides of the rocks, either in thick masses or in interlacing meshes of delicate network. Here and there the Thetyaf might be seen, with its rounded lobes brist- ling with little spicula, side by side with the finger- like masses of the Alcyonium and the Lobulariaif ; * The Flustrce and Escharce, whicli were long regarded as zoophytes, are now considered as Polyzoa, belonging to the class of the Bryozoa. The Sertulariae and the Campanularise are zoophytes. f The Thetya is a kind of sponge having a globular form and a compact structure. This group, which is very imperfectly under- stood, has been made the subject of profound investigation by M. Valenciennes, who, however, has not yet published the result of his observationg. \ The Alcyonium and Lobular ia are polypes living in colonies upon one common mass. THE ARCHIFELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 41 sometimes too a Holothuria*, with its long, polygonal, whitish body, would slowly move across this living carpet by means of its sucker-like feet, spreading abroad its coronet of arborescent tentacles. How rapidly the hours passed, amid this profusion of life, while I was filling my boxes and bottles ! How gladly would I have admired, examined, and carried off all that I saw! But I was soon forced to think of returnino;. The lono; riband-like fronds of the laminarias or oarweeds, which hitherto had been in- clined towards the sea, wavered for a moment, and bending gently backward, they soon turned land- ward, their plaited bands undulating more and more rapidly as they yielded to the swell of the flowing current. The ocean was resuming its sway, and I was compelled to have recourse to my boat, not, however, until I had promised myself the pleasure of speedily returning to the same rich field of dis- covery. The wandering annelids {anndlides errantes) oc- cupied my special attention during my earliest explorations.! Hitherto I had only known this numerous family of animals (commonly designated sea-worms) through engravings ; but, although I had * The family of the Holothurias belongs to the class of the Echinoderms. f The Annelids constitute a very remarkable class of animals, to which I have devoted special attention, and many of my results will be referred to in the following pages. (We may refer on this subject to the works of Savigny and of M, Edwards, as well as to the joint Memoirs of MM. Edwards and Quatrefages, in the Annales des Sciences Naturelles.) 42 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. formed a tolerably exact idea of tlieir organisation, I had not the slightest conception how many points of interest attached themselves to a study of these forms. When I had once surprised within their obscure retreats the Polynoa, with its broad brown scales ; the Phyllodoce, with its hundred bright green rings ; the Eunice, with its purple crest ; the Terebella, sur- rounded by a cloud of innumerable living cables, which serve it in the place of arms ; and when I had seen displayed before my eyes the rich fan of the Sabella, and the enamelled collar of the Serpula, I no longer smiled, as I had formerly done, at the thought of a naturalist having endowed two of these creatures with the charming names of Matilda and Herminia. These despised creatures seemed to me now no less worthy of a naturalist's homage than the most bril- liant insect or the fairest flower. Let no one cite the violet as a pattern of modesty I the coquette ! See how she shows from afar her fresh tuft of green leaves, and scatters abroad the sweet perfume which invites you to gather her ! More skilful than her rivals, she knows that mystery is the greatest of all attractions, and that the rose itself loses by displaying her charms in broad day-light ; therefore it is that she seeks the obscurity of our woods and the friendly shelter of the hedge-sides, but, like Virgil's shep- herdess, she only conceals herself for the sake of being sought for. Now turn to the annelids I What do they lack when compared with the most splendid inhabitants of earth or air ? yet they shun the light^ they withdraw themselves from our view, but with no design to attract ; and the naturalist alone knows THE AKCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 43 where to seek the strange wonders, which are hidden within the recesses of the rock and beneath the sandy beds of the ocean. You may smile at my enthusiasm if you will, but come and judge for yourself. All is prepared ! Our firmly adjusted microscope is furnished with its lenses, which magnify thirty diameters. Our lamp gives a light almost as white as that of a jet of gas, while a large lens, mounted upon a moveable foot, re- ceives the rays of light and concentrates them upon our field of view. We have just placed upon the stage of our instrument a little trough filled with sea-water, in which an Eunice is disporting itself. See how indignant it is at its captivity ; how its numerous rings contract, elongate, twist into a spiral coil, and at every movement emit flashes of light, in which all the tints of the prism are blended in the brightest metallic reflections. It is impossible in the midst of this tumultuous agitation to distinguish any- thing definitely. But it is more quiet now ; lose no time, therefore, in examining it ; see how it crawls along the bottom of the vessel, with its thousand feet moving rapidly forward and emitting bundles of darts from the broad knobs with which they are fur- nished. See what beautiful plumes adorn the sides of the body ; these are the branchiae, or organs of respiration, which become vermilion as they are swelled by the blood, whose course you may trace along the whole length of the great dorsal vessel. Look at that head enamelled with the brightest colours ; here are the five antennae, delicate organs of touch, and here in the midst of them is the mouth. 44 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. which, at first sight, seems merely like an irregularly- puckered opening. But watch it for a few moments, see how it opens and protrudes a large proboscis, furnished with three pairs of jaws, and possessing a diameter which equals that of the body, within which it is enclosed as in a living sheath. Well ! is it not wonderful ? Is there any animal which can contend with it for the prize of decoration ? the corslet of the brightest beetle, the speckled wings of the butterfly, the sparkling throat of the humming bird, would all look pale when compared with the play of light flashing in large patches over the rings of its body, glowing in its golden threads and sparkling over its amber and coral fringes. Let us next examine these two Cirrhatulas which belong to one and the same species, although they differ so much in colour. The one which was cap- tured under a stone that had been washed several times daily by a rapid current, is of a dull red, relieved by golden markings. The other, found in the slimy mud that formed the bed from which a meadow of Zostera seemed to derive its rank luxu- riance, had borrowed from the soil which it inhabited a deep and velvet-like blackness, over which there played a bright bluish iridescence. In this animal the branchial plumes give place to long filaments, which move in all directions around it, and extend afar as if they were so many living cables. They are at once its arms and branchise, and the blood, as by turns it ebbs and flows, dyes them of the richest shade of carmine, or leaves them of a faint amber - coloured yellow. See how they lengthen their THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 45 pointed snouts, surmounted by a double crescent- formed eye ; how they gather themselves together to escape from the gleam of light which has fallen upon them. Look at the tangled skein which they have formed, it is a hundred times more inextricable than the knot which Alexander cut. But here the coils are living, and as they glide through and into one another, they incessantly bind and loosen the glisten- ing knots, amid the sparkling play of their luminous reflections. During this time the animated threads, as they detach themselves from the glowing mass, catch up grains of sand and particles of slime, and in a few minutes, before you can distinguish the me- chanism by which all this is effected, the annelids are sheltered under a flexible and plaited envelope, formed of fragments, which, thickening more and more as they cluster together, become at length converted into a kind of case, which encloses the Cirrhatula as the shell encloses the nut. Now let us take a lens of higher power, move the lamp in such a manner as to let its rays fall upon the reflector of our microscope, and let us examine a few of the hairs taken from the animals which we have been describing. Every annelid has two bundles of hairs on the outer edge of its feet, and these threads, which, notwithstanding their extreme delicacy, are far stiffer than an ordinary hair, appear to be placed on either side of the animal to protect it against its enemies. A moment's consideration will suffice to confirm this view, for there is scarcely perhaps a single weapon invented by the murderous genius of man whose counterpart and model could 46 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. not be found amongst this class of animals. Here are those curved blades whose point presents a double and prolonged cutting surface, sometimes on the concave edge, as in the yatagan of the Arabs, sometimes on the convex border, as in the Oriental scimitar. Next we meet with weapons of offence and defence which remind us of the broadsword of our cuirassiers, the sabre-poignard of the artillery- man, and the sabre-bdionnette of the Yincennes chasseur. Then again we have harpoons, fish-hooks, and cutting-blades of every form, loosely attached to the extremity of a sharp handle. These moveable pieces are intended to remain in the body of the enemy, whilst the handle which supported them becomes a long spike as sharp as it was before. Here we have straight or curved poignards, cutting hooks, arrows, with the barbs curved backwards in order the better to tear the wound, but carefully provided with a sheath to protect the fine indenta- tions from being blunted by friction or broken by any unforeseen shock. Finally, if the enemy should disregard his first wounds and the weapons which have struck him from afar, there darts from every foot a shorter but stronger spear, which is brought into play by a special set of muscles as soon as the combatants are sufficiently near to grapple in close fight._ It is not without reason that nature has endowed these amazons with more finely polished and sharply pointed weapons than any wielded by paladins of old. Destined to live by rapine, and exposed to the attacks of a thousand enemies, they need them both THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 47 as means of attack and defence. Almost all are nourished with living victims. Some wait in ambush for the passing of small Crustaceans, Planarias, or other minute animals, and seize their prey with their proboscis, or entwine them in the folds of their thou- sand arms. Others again, more active than the rest, pursue their victims over the sand or through thick tufts of Corallines, Nullipores, and various marine plants. Some attach themselves to shells, and after perforating them devour the inhabitant. The Her- mella, a species of the tubicolous annelids, thus com- mits great havoc amongst oyster beds, destroying numerous colonies of this much cherished mollusc. The annelids are in their turn pursued by a multi- tude of carnivorous animals. Fishes wage a rude war against them, and if one more imprudent than the rest should abandon its retreat, or be exposed to view by the movement of the waves, it rarely escapes the murderous teeth of some whiting, eel, sole, or plaice. It it asserted that the latter kind of fish are well acquainted with the mode of drawing them from the sand ; the same is the case with the Turbo and the Buccinum ; but crabs, lobsters, and a great number of other crustaceans, constitute their most formidable enemies, for the solid carapace by which these animals are covered protects them entirely from the formidable arms of the annelids. It was with a keen feeling of curiosity that, in the course of my excursions, I studied the manners of these bellicose races, and watched the skirmishes which terminated almost invariably in a feast, for which the vanquished supplied the viands in person. 48 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. I often amused myself by provoking these assaults. One day, for instance, I threw a large Arenicola* into a pool of several feet in extent. A troop of little shrimps, who were sedately enjoying them- selves in the clear element, dispersed in alarm, startled by the noise made by the fall of this strange body, but, recovering themselves in a moment, they rallied, and whilst the annelid was endeavouring to bury itself in the sand, one of the youngest, and, consequently, also the most venturous of the party, seized the creature by the middle of its body. Em- boldened by this example the others lost no time in imitating it, and the poor Arenicola was pulled about in all directions until a full-grown shrimp, darting from behind a tuft of Corallines, dispersed his feebler comrades and appropriated the booty to himself. I soon saw, however, that he would be compelled to divide the spoils, for at that very instant there poured forth from the moving sand some score of small Turbos and Buccinums, who, conscious that a victim was at hand, wished to participate in the feast. Without any sign of uncertainty or hesitation they moved straight forward towards the Arenicola, whose body was covered in the twinkling of an eye with these voracious molluscs. I thought his fate definitively settled, when a small shore-crab (Cancer Moenas) issued from beneath a stone, put to flight * The common fisherman's worm (Arenicola piscatorum) is one of the commonest annelids on our coast, where it is used for bait. It is moreover one of the most curious in reference to its organisa- tion, as M. Milne Edwards has well shown in his Memoirs on the Circulation of the Annelids. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 49 the shrimp, and by dragging off the Arenlcola very nearly npset all the Turbos, who forthwith hurried back to their sandy haunts. Then, however, a large edible C^rab (Cancer Pagurus) appeared upon the scene, and the poor little Moenas was obliged in his turn to beat a retreat in order to escape out of reach of the formidable pincers of his stronger kinsman. But he still kept a watchful eye over the dainty morsel which he had once tasted, and taking advantage of a moment when the larger crab was withdrawing from the field from some temporary emotion of alarm, he rapidly seized the long disputed Arenicola, and carried it for safety to some distance from the water's edge, where he might devour it at his ease on dry ground. During the early period of my sojourn at Chausey, I was employed in acquiring a general idea of the fauna of the district, and I found among the different species which it possessed that there were many hitherto und escribed forms. If I had felt any desire for this kind of inquiry, I might undoubtedly have reaped a rich harvest, but I confess I have never had the slightest taste for that modification of science, which rests satisfied with examining the exterior of an animal, and then pinning it on a cork or putting it into a bottle, with its name duly inscribed on a label. There can be no doubt that the preliminary labour of compiling systematic lists was indispensably necessary, and I am far from wishing to detract from the debt of gratitude which we owe to the patient and laborious observers who have drawn up classified VOL. I. E 50 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. catalogues of living species, or to those who are adding to them daily. We ought, however, strenu- ously to avoid the grave error of reducing zoology to the standard of a mere appraiser's craft. He who knows nothing of an animal beyond the name and place apportioned to it in a more or less well devised system of nomenclature, no more deserves the title of a naturalist than a librarian's assistant deserves the name of savant, because he knows by heart the titles of all his books, and their local and numerical arrangement in the press in which they are kept. No ! in the case either of a book or of an animal we must go deeper than the binding, we must penetrate below the skin. True zoology, or that form of it towards which all other branches of natural science ought to converge, consists in studying the relations of oro-anised beino;s and their connexion with the in- organic world, in investigating the play of the organs as animated instruments of these mysterious affinities ; in penetrating into their mechanism; in following them in their modifications, in order to distinguish, if possible, between what is essential and what is incidental ; in ascending from all these effects to the cause, and thus perhaps penetrating at some future day into the arcana of life ; this is the end and aim of true zoology, the rest merely constitute the means. Without, therefore, neglecting new species be- longing to known genera, I was far from seeking for them. My principal object was to make anatomical and physiological observations ; and investigations of this nature certainly do not lose any of their value by being pursued in reference to some already named THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 51 species. But even in this respect I was favoured beyond my expectations, for I discovered entirely new types or species belonging to genera hitherto unknown in our seas, and whose organisation it had therefore been impossible to study. The human mind is so constituted that it appears to abhor all that is easy of acquisition. We see this exemplified both in the arts and sciences. Thus, whenever a new problem is started, you will have twenty solutions before you meet with the simplest explanation. Naturalists seem carefully to obey this law of our nature. The Desman of Siberia was known more than half a century before that of the Pyrenees *, and whilst naturalists have cast their dredge into the waters of the seas which wash the Moluccas, Philippines and Antilles, we scarcely know anything of the marine productions of the Channel, the Bay of Biscay, or the Gulf of Lyons. Yet new species are to be found within a few leagues of us, and there is scarcely a naturalist who has gone to spend a few days on our sea coasts without having had the grati- fication of making some such discovery. Let me speak to you for a moment or two of one * The genus Desman (Mtjgale), includes only two living species, one of which was discovered in Siberia by Pallas, whilst the other was found in France at a much later period. It would appear that this latter species is limited to the small rivers that flow from the Pyrenees. The Diesman is a small insectivorous mammal, exhaling a powerful odour of musk, which is produced by a special liquid secreted by the glands which are situated near the base of the tail. M. Lartet has discovered the remains of fossil Desmans in the rich osseous deposits of Sansan. E 2 52 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of those zoophytes, which up to the present time have remained hidden in the sand of Chausey. Setting aside the self-love natural to a discoverer, I venture to affirm that it merits the distinction on more grounds than one. It is a species of Synapta* belonging to a genus of the family of the Holo- thurid^, whose representatives had hitherto been met with only in the warmest seas of the old and new world. Imagine to yourself a rose-coloured crystal cylinder, about eighteen inches in length and one inch in diameter, marked along its whole length by five minute bands of white silk, and surmounted by a pale white living flower, whose twelve petals are gracefully curved backwards. In the midst of these tissues, whose delicate texture seems to surpass the most exquisite products of our industry, you must suppose an intestine of gauze-like tenuity, but completely filled up with large grains of granite, whose fine points and salient angles may be dis- tinctly seen by the naked eye. It was this circum- stance which especially struck me in the animal, for it appeared literally to partake of no other nourish- ment than the coarse sand surrounding it. But * I have given to this curious species the name of Synapta Du- vernaea, in honour of my former Professor and much esteemed friend M. Duvernoy, who was a member of the Institute, and a Professor at the Jardin des Plantes and the College de France, As the compatriot of Cuvier, for he was born at Montbelliard, he early attached himself to that illustrious Naturalist, and brought out, in concert with Dumeril, the first edition of the Anatomic Comparec ; at the death of Cuvier, M. Duvernoy succeeded him at the College de France, while he afterwards succeeded M. de Blainville in the chair of Comparative Anatomy at the Museum. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 53 what unexpected wonders were revealed to my sight, when, by means of the scalpel and microscope, I penetrated to its inmost organism ! In this animal, the walls of whose body Avere scarcely one-fiftieth of an inch in thickness, I could trace seven distinct layers of tissue, a skin, muscles, and membranes. I perceived that the petal-like tentacles were furnished with cupping glasses, by which the Synapta was enabled to ascend the polished surface of a glass ; and finally I discovered that this animal, which appeared destitute of every means of attack or defence, was actually protected by a kind of mosaic, formed of small calcareous shields, bristling with double hooks, whose points, serrated like the arrows of the Carib, had even penetrated the skin of my hands. After having preserved several living Synaptas for some time in a vase of sea- water, I observed that they underwent a process of self-consumption. First they distended the posterior portion of their bodies by suffering the fluid to accumulate there, which incessantly circulates between the intestine and the integuments; by this means a stricture was speedily produced, and the final separation suddenly effected. Scarcity of food seemed to be the sole cause of these spontaneous amputations. It almost appeared as if the animal, feeling that it could not supply the whole of its body with nourishment, suppressed those parts which it might cost the entire organism too much to maintain ; somewhat on the same principle as that by which all useless mouths are banished from a besieged town. This E 3 54 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. singular method of struggling against famine is maintained to the last moment ; for at the end of a few days there frequently remained nothing more of the animal than a little spherical ball, crowned with tentacles. The Synapta had by degrees cut away the whole of its body in order to keep life in its head. In one of his inspired songs the prophet exclaims, " The heavens declare thy glory, O Jehovah ! " and assuredly there is no one who has not at times felt his heart lifted above earthly things, when on a fine summer's night he has watched the stars, as they stood forth like so many diamonds upon the deep azure of the celestial vault, shedding upon us from afar their scintillating light. There is no one, probably, who at the rising of the sun has not felt something of the same emotion which the Philoso- pher of Ferney experienced, when on the first occasion of his witnessing this splendid spectacle, he knelt in adoration before the majesty of the Creator, exclaiming : " Mon Dieu ! vous etes grand ! qui pourrait ne pas croire en vous." Yet we find that the contemplation of celestial phenomena is capable of associating sceptical ideas with the most exalted sentiments of admiration. The immutable move- ments of the stars seem at every turn to give evidence of the control of fatality, and hence has arisen that belief in astrology which has prevailed so universally amongst enlightened nations. The discoveries of modern science, by destroying what- ever was superstitious in these applications of astro- nomy, have perhaps rather tended to confirm this THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 55 general tendency. It might be argued that the wonderful laws revealed by Kepler and Newton^* have demonstrated, even more strongly than was before conjectured, that necessity was the sole determining cause of the movements of the planetary worlds ; and what need, it is asked, can there be of a superior intelligence to regulate that which is necessary ? Thus we find some of the names which have become glorious in astronomy, inscribed among the ranks of atheism. On the other hand, those who study living beings are every moment encoun- tering such a vast accumulation of unexpected facts, that they may perhaps at first sight be tempted to believe in the absence of order. But the further they advance on this path of inquiry, in which nature so frequently presents herself under the aspect of the marvellous, the less frequently these apparent deviations from order will arrest their attention^ while mutual relations which before were not even suspected will be ever presenting themselves to view, and contrasts of the most striking character will give way to harmony and obvious unity of purpose. Although some facts may indeed seem to militate against general opinion, and the most rational theories may appear to crumble into dust before a reality which the observer was unable to foresee, he will not be the less ready to trace the touch of that all-wise and all-powerful hand, which has every- where diffused life over the surface of our o-lobe, * [A brief sketch of the chief scientific discoveries of Kepler and Newton is transferred to the Appendix, Note VI.] £ 4 56 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. and regulated its development. We therefore see nothing extraordinary in the cry of adoration which escapes from Linn^us at the very introduction of his immortal Sy sterna Natures *; while we can as easily comprehend the .feeling which actuated an illustrious naturalist, when he began and ended one of his last works with the exclamation, " Glory be to God!" After spending the day in the toilsome labour of digging up sand and rolling over large masses of rock, I returned to the farm to recruit my strength with a frugal meal, and then prepared for my night work by ascending to Mont de Bretagne to watch the evening mist gradually descend upon the neighbour- ing islands. For some time after I had regained my solitary den, I could hear Master Lecam's songs repeated in full chorus by his companions ; on some occasions too, sounds reached me which told of dis- putes which were waxing high under the influence of the cyder-cup ; but these noises soon died away in the direction of the village of the St. Malo men, leaving the silence of the night unbroken by any sound save the crash of the waves as they beat against the point of Port Marie, or the blast of the west wind as it swept across the surf at Epails. My table, whose area of four feet square was crowded with the products of my explorations, now became a source of enjoyment, far more attractive than any of the numerous splendid spectacles which were being * [A notice of the Life and Labours of Linnseus is transferred to the Appendix, Note VII.] THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 57 presented at the same hour before the eyes of the affluent idlers of our large towns. My forceps, needles, and compressor * secured the objects of my research ; my microscope and lenses revealed an infi- nite world to my eyes, my pencils and brushes enabled me to secure rough illustrations of these treasures to be filled up at some future time with more care and exactitude ; while my pen was employed in hastily drawing up the notes necessary to give permanence to my recollection of what I had seen. I saw one fact linking itself to other facts, I felt one thought awaken other thoughts, and this mutual reaction between observation and intelligence was the source of unspeakable enjoyment. Yes ! in this remote spot of earth, whose desolate aspect could not fail to strike the beholder with profoundly sombre impressions, in this large room in which the cold and the dampness seemed to struggle for preeminence, in the absence of all material comforts, I can truly say that I enjoyed the most unalloyed pleasure that has as yet * The compressor is a small instrument which may be almost termed the hand of the microscopist. It was invented in Germany by Purkinje, and has been considerably improved by subsequent ob- servers. The instrument consists essentially of a metallic plate, pierced in the centre by an opening, which is covered by a glass plate. A second glass plate worked by a moveable ring can be applied with exactness to the former plate. The ring is attached to one of the extremities of a stem, which turns upon two pivots, and is provided at the opposite extremity with a vice, which enables the observer gradually to draw together, or separate the glass plates. In the compressor which I have invented, these plates are extremely thin, and the instrument is arranged in such a manner that it may be turned round to show successively the two opposite faces of the object placed between the two glass plates. 58 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. fallen to my lot. When ascendins^ to the origin of all these harmonies, I found that the Eternal PoAver was the source from whence this admirable order sprang ; when through marvel to marvel my thoughts rose from creation to the Creator, it was from the very depths of my soul that I adored Him in His works, and united with GeofFroy de Saint-Hilaire * in the cry of " Glory be to G od ! " And now perhaps you may understand how it was that I could so easily forget myself in the midst of my occupations. Indeed it often happened that I did not seek my hammock- bed until my fingers were so stiffened with cold that I was unable to handle my instruments with the necessary precision. The Blainville fishermen, whose huts faced my window, were often surprised to find at three o'clock in the morning, that my lamp, whose light they had watched before they went to rest, was still burning. I believe this fact has left a more permanent impression than any of the other circumstances connected with my stay on the island. The good people thought that I lived without sleep, and occasionally gave expression, with the utmost naivete, to their extreme surprise. It may perhaps excite astonishment to hear of cold and dampness, considering that I was at Chausey during the months of July and August. But this surprise will vanish, if we call to mind the character of the summer of 1841 even at Paris; and that I was in the midst of the sea at three leas^ues' distance * [A biographical sketch of Geoffroy de Saiut-Hilaire is given in the Appendix, Note VIII.] THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 59 from that western coast of France, where a fine day, even in ordinary seasons, is a thing of very rare oc- currence. I scarcely saw the sun above half a dozen times, during the three months of my sojourn. Either rain or mist accompanied me on nearly all my rambles. I often returned home so thoroughly drenched, that, from want of a sufficient supply of clothing, I was obliged to remain in bed while my clothes were drying before the fire of the farm-house kitchen. The south-west wind, which beat full upon my door, had so completely loosened all the joints, that in the slightest storm, I was inundated. A few days after my arrival, I awoke one morning with six inches of water under my bed : in order to avoid being entirely surrounded, I was obliged to cut a hole in the most sloping part of the floor, and by means of this pre- caution I had for the future a river instead of a lake in my room. All my steel instruments were covered with rust ; the metallic mirror of my camera lucida was entirely ruined, and I had some difficulty in protecting the brass work of my microscope. The salt melted in my salt-cellar ; and a pound of sugar, which had been forgotten for a fortnight at the bottom of my cupboard, was converted into syrup. But these disagreeables were soon forgotten, if I were able, at the spring-tide of new or full moon, to proceed in Master Hyacinthe's boat to the islands of Enseigne or Corbieres, or to Ile-aux-Oiseaux. The low ledges of rock which I wished to explore could only be reached by long and often most tedious detours, in which I was obliged to cross banks of slimy mud, at the risk of sinking knee-deep, or 60 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. to scramble across broken and fucus-covered rocks. I found my early habits of sure-footed mountain climbing of the greatest service to me on these oc- casions. I generally achieved the most glorious success in these awkward emergencies, and my humble companions appeared not a little surprised to see a gentleman cross their sharp-pointed rocks and slippery inclines with the quickness and security that I displayed. As soon as I reached the water's edge, I began to roll away the stones ; and as it was generally the largest which served as lurking places for the more curious animals, I had to employ all my strength in this work. The epidermis of my hands was very soon Avorn off against the small Balani, which covered the rocks, and converted them into living rasps. After two days' work it had be- come so exceedingly thin, that the slightest contact was productive of pain. I then directed my eiforts to the sand, of which I am sure I must have turned up some hundred cartloads. Two iron shovels, made by the island smiths, were twisted and broken in these explorations. The third stood the test, but then about ten pounds of iron had been employed in fabricating its broad spatula, terminating in a steel point, and attached to a handle half an inch in thick- ness. Although this instrument is rather heavy, it has been of great use to me, and I recommend it to all naturalists who purpose exploring the coast. Violent exercise on the sea-side is probably fully as bracing and conducive to the acquisition of strength as the games of the Circus or a dip in the Eurotas ; at all events I returned from these excur- THE AECHIPELAGO OF CHAUSET. 61 sions wltli true Spartan appetite. As may readily be supposed, my bill of dinner fare was a very li- mited one. A lobster constituted almost always the main dish of the repast, taking the place of the classic bouilli of our humbler households. The Nor- man dairy-woman, who was serving her apprentice- ship in the art of cooking at my expense, generally added a whiting or a plaice caught the same morning. Every ten or twelve days, I received a piece of fresh meat from the main land ; and I feel confident that the frequenters of Very's or Les Freres Proven9aux never promised themselves a greater gastronomic treat than I did when I beheld a piece of boiled beef or mutton smoking before me. Sometimes a grate- ful fisherman presented me, by way of fee, with a plate of shrimps, or Master Balue would bring me a dish of artichokes from the continent in token of his gratitude to me for saving his finger. The sour home-made cider of the farm formed my beverage, although I generally tempered this debilitating drink with a few glasses of the wine which was sold on the island under the pompous title of Bordeaux. This kind of life, so varied in its uniformity, was interrupted from time to time by the visits of coasting vessels. Their arrival was a regular holiday for me, and I was not sorry, by joining the mess on board, to return for a few hours to the civilised world. Some- times they brought with them a party of gay pas- sengers, who had been induced by the prospect of a day's fishing to brave the horrors of sea- sickness. One day even the Espiegle touched at Chausey with a party on board, consisting of several worthy 62 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. mothers of families and a whole swarm of joyous laughing young girls, who were not a little proud of the charming and untroubled passage which they had made. It would be difficult to describe all I felt in assisting them to scramble up the rocky landing- place from their boat. To a poor recluse like me, Avho for three months had seen no one more attrac- tive than the sturdy w^omen of Blainville and the wives of the quarrymen, these young girls appeared alike charming and beautiful ; but whether or not, they really were so, I do not know. I never saw them again ! My active and solitary life had made me accessible to a crowd of impressions which easily become effiiced when brought in contact with the world. I had regained the superabundant activity of youth both in respect to my physical and moral nature. I experienced all the pleasure of a child in leaping over barriers, climbing sharp and high rocks, and crossing the most difficult chasms. When I gazed upon the boundless horizon of the sea from the sum- mit of some lofty hill, or on the wide expanse of beach ; when I listened to the thousand sounds around me, which seemed like so many voices speaking in an unknown tongue, I felt my heart beat beneath the impression of those vague and ardent thoughts which seem to be the heritage of almost all in youth, linked as they are with the recollections of the happiest period of our early years. But time passed on : my note books were filled, my portfolios stored with drawings and sketches. I had THE AKCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 63 completed that portion of my Inquiries which pre- sented the greatest interest, and at the very moment when I ought to have entered upon another series of investigations, I felt in its full force the painful sense of solitude. A feeling of home- sickness seized upon me ; I did not long struggle against it, but packing up my books, instruments and collections, I at once engaged my passage on board the Delia, a small vessel which was employed in transporting to St. Malo the produce of the quarries of Chausey. It was one of those lovely days, which occasionally visit us at the approach of the equinox, and which seem to belong alike to the summer which is passing away and the autumn which is already beginning. The sun w^as shining in a deep blue sky, interspersed with a few light clouds. The sea was beautiful, and its long lines of waves were breaking into sparkling foam, as they moved in the bright sunbeams before a gentle breeze from the north-east. Notwithstanding the heavy cargo which filled her hold, the Delia made rapid way, and we had soon left the shore far enough behind us to enable me to embrace in one glance the whole of the archipelago, whose remotest recesses had now become so familiar to me. Before me lay Grande-Ile, with its ancient castle command- ing Port Homard, and flanked on either side by the Great and Small Epail, which advanced into the sea like gigantic sword-blades. On my right, Ile-Longue and the two Romonts were half hidden in the clouds of smoke which rose from the barilla fires. To the left lay the chain of larger islands. La Genetaie, with its high upheaved rocks, La Houssaie, and the 64 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Corbieres encircled by a belt of rocks rising little higher than the water's edge. By degrees these various objects grew confused, and blended into one another ; the sun set, casting a last rosy tint over the evening mist as it descended upon Chausey, enveloping islands and rocks within its gauze-like tissue. Soon all objects had passed out of sight ; the sky, sea, and land were blended into one horizon, and Chausey had disappeared, perhaps for ever, from my view. The thought awakened a deep feeling of sadness. I had passed many happy hours on those desolate rocks, and who could tell what the world, to which I was returning, had yet in store for me ! The wind had fallen, not a breeze remained to swell the sails, and we cast anchor till the next morning, when the Delia resumed her course, run- ning at a mile's distance from the coast of Cancale, whose hills, dotted with tufts of trees and country houses, were glowing in the purple tints of the rising sun. We soon doubled the desolate point of Petit Be, where the waves are always breaking against the last resting-place of an illustrious writer, who caused hisgrave to be hollowed out on the summit of thisrock, as if the agitations of his well spent life had not suf- ficed him, and as if even after death he yearned to linger among the storms of this world.* We were at St. Malo f, whose dark granite houses, rising in * Chateaubriand caused his tomb to be erected during his lifetime on the rocky platform of Petit Be. where a simple cross of granite serves as a signal to ships arriving from a distance. f The St. Malo men have always been known as skilful traders and adventurous sailors. Their renown in the days of Louis XIV. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHAUSEY. 65 tiers a hundred feet above the waves, looked like so many beacon-towers, keeping watch for the coming of an English flag, and ready to raise the cry to summon her brave St. Malouins to the scene of action. A few moments more, and the Delia cast her anchor, and I was again on terra firma. was so well established, that the vessel which bore the Lord High Admiral's flag was, according to custom, to carry a crew which, including officers, marines, and sailors, were all to be natives of St. Malo. VOL. I. 66 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. CHAP. II. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. Journey from Paris to Paimpol. — The Archipelago of Brchat. — Its geological structure. — Ruins on some of the inhabited islands. — Grande- He. — Le Paon. — Population ; probable admixture of Basque and Breton blood. — Mildness of the climate. — The terrestrial Fauna ; the Black Rat. — The maritime Fauna. — The animal series. — Ideal and derivative types. — Relations of or- ganised beings to one another. — General ideal type of a perfect animal. — Division of physiological labour. — Higher and lower animals : organic permanence of the former ; organic variability of the latter. — Subdivision of the Articulata. — True Annelids or Worms. — Tubicolous Annelids ; Chloroema ; Amphicora ; Tere- bella ; Sabella. — Errant Annelids ; Chsetopterus ; Echiurus ; Sipunculus ; Dujardinia. — Anatomy of Eunice sanguinea. — Doyerina ; Aphlebina. — Organisation of Nemertes ; remarkable simplification. — Excursion to the lighthouse of Hehaux, — Descrip- tion of the tower. — Illuminating apparatus. — Historical notices : Borda, Lemoine, Buffon, Arago, Fresnel, the younger Fran§ois. — Departure from Brehat. I HAD left the Archipelago of Chausey and the harbour of St. Malo, firmly resolved, some day or other, to revisit the shores of Brittany. The four months which I had spent in earnest research had indeed familiarised me with the zoological riches of its sandy coast, and its granite-guarded creeks and bays ; but the profound study of even the smallest animal demands prolonged and assiduous investigation. Much had been left undone on my THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 67 first excursion. My portfolios were full of imperfect notes ; my sketches were many of them unfinished, being, in fact, mere outlines, hastily drawn, and serving more as guides to my memory than as faith- ful representations of the objects I had seen. I determined therefore to supply the many deficiencies which seemed either to suggest the existence of some mystery to be revealed or of some truth to be de- monstrated. Having taken this resolution, it only remained for me to make choice of my future station. The magnificent atlas of the Hydrographie franqaise, enabled me to trace on paper the entire reefs of rocks, which appear to be thrown around ancient Armorica as if to defend it alike from the fury of the waves and the assaults of hostile fleets. In the midst of the innumerable small islands which have been so minutely represented by the skilful en- gineers who worked under the direction of M. Beautemps-Beaupre, the little Archipelago of Brehat, lying to the north-west of Saint-Brieuc, attracted my attention by the resemblance it appeared to present to that of Chausey. This resemblance seemed indi- cative of future success, and without further hesita- tion I took my departure for the department of Cotes du Nord. My journey from Paris to Saint-Brieuc presented nothing worthy of notice. On leaving the dili- gence, I was obliged to go in search of some kind of conveyance, to transport myself and my various items of luggage to Paimpol, the small seaport town from whence I was to embark for the Island of Brehat. After many inquiries and much searching, I at F 2 68 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. length discovered a crazy sort of vehicle, which, even before it was loaded, seemed too heavy for the half- starved white pony which was to draw it. I hesi- tated for some time whether or not I should trust myself in this sorry equipage, which would, I feared, break down on the road. The owner declared, how- ever, in the strongest and most impressive manner, that his conveyance would carry me to my destina- tion as fast as any diligence : therefore, as I had no other alternative, I resigned myself to the conviction he endeavoured to force upon me, and I am bound to say that the event justified his assertions. My little horse was of the true Breton breed, and there- fore had descended in a direct line from those ancient Gallic steeds which, even before the conquests of Caesar, were known to the Romans, and esteemed by them as highly as the celebrated racers of Crete. On the first touch of the whip, he started oif on a fast trot, and on the second application he broke into a gallop. The driver, who was as lithe and talkative as a Spanish muleteer, kept up this ardour on the part of his steed by a multitude of en- couraging epithets, half French, half low Breton, while he took good care at the same time to season his remarks with repeated strokes of the whip. The same rapid pace was maintained the whole way, ex- cepting when we ascended or descended the precipi- tous hills by which the road is broken at every turn, yet notwithstanding these interruptions, we passed over the thirty miles, which separate Saint-Brieuc from Paimpol, almost as rapidly as the messageries royales would have done. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 69 On leaving Salnt-Brieuc, the road descends into a narrow and deep gnlly. The schistous character of its mountain sides was at once discernible by the irregularity of their profile, which differs so essen- tially from the sharply-cut outline of granite for- mations or the rounded forms characterising sand- stone and limestone districts. But, notwithstanding the abrupt and wild appearance of the country through which we passed, it presented the greatest possible attractions to me, from the recollections it awakened in my mind of the valleys of the Cevennes, amongst which I spent my early childhood. There were the same sharply defined mountains, with their acutely cut angles and salient lines, the same stunted but hardy vegetation, drawing a scanty subsistence from among the debris of rocks, which rise on every side in slender pyramids, wreathed with long spine-clad festoons of brambles interspersed with tufts of waving furze. Here, near every brightly gushing mountain rivulet, were the same patches of verdure, clothing the steep hill -side with a soft velvety carpet of grass, where even the cattle could scarcely keep their footing on their steep and slippery pasture ground. By the way-side, in the hollows of the rocks, at the foot of the trees, I saw tlie same plants and flowers which I had so often gathered when a child. To complete the resemblance, a winding brook pursued its course through the valley. The clear waters leapt over the pebbles, broke in foam against the larger stones, and fell in bright cascades from the embankments which had been thrown up to collect a larger body of water to turn some huge F 3 70 EAMBLES OF A NATUEALIST. wheel or impel some system of machinery, the noise of which resounded from afar. However much the inhabitant of a level country may boast of the fer- tility of his plains, the majesty of his rivers, or the wealth of his cities, he can never comprehend the sentiments of tender affection with Avhich a moun- taineer looks at any spot which recalls to him the image of his native district. The road wound gradually upwards from this valley until we reached a steep ascent, which brought us to a gently sloping plain, which we did not again leave ; and here in an instant was displayed before our eyes a landscape, diifering in all respects from the country which we had traversed. We had emero'ed from one of those fissures in the earth's crust which owe their origin to the upheaval of granitic masses and which still preserve traces of their violent origin. In another moment w^e found ourselves on a soil which had been deposited by the action of water — a mode of formation of which everything around bore evidence. The surface of the soil was undulatino- and rounded : the sides of the road exhibited, below a vegetable soil, parallel strata of pebbles, wdnch had obviously once formed a part of the neighbouring rocks. The solitude of a wild mountain gorge was succeeded by the cheerful brightness of a softer, although not less picturesque, landscape. The road wound among hills covered with rich harvests, or crossed tracts of fallow land broken up into patches by hawthorn hedges and long rows of oak trees. The sturdy trunks of the trees rose from a narrow band of grass, bright with w^ild THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 71 flowers, among which the birds were chirping and incessantly flitting about. The noise made by my clattering vehicle created an immense panic amongst the feathered throng: the sparrows took suddenly to flight in large troops ; the robin-red- breast fled to its coverts ; the greenfinch hopped to a high branch, where, encouraged by distance, he warbled forth a joyous song as we passed ; whilst the large crested lark, waiting till w^e were close to him, would suddenly rise, and, remaining suspended in the air for an instant, would again alight at a stone's throw from us upon some elevated mound of earth, from whence he watched us, shaking the while his little crest of grey feathers. The sky itself lent variety to the scene, as at every moment the tints of the landscape changed from the bright hues of a golden sunlight to the sombre colouring imparted by some heavy cloud, as it was driven across the heavens before a keen breeze from the west. This wind, which at first was very supportable, gradually became sharper and sharper, penetrating through my clothing with a peculiarly searching intensity, which made me suspect that w^e were approaching the ocean. I looked around to catch a glimpse of the Atlantic ; and, on turning a hill, at the extremity of a short valley covered with meadows and inter- spersed with clumps of trees, the boundless expanse of waters lay spread before me like some immense green plain, seamed and veined with the white lines of its foaming waves. Another half-hour brought us to Paimpol, and the next day I embarked for Brehat. My first care on F 4 72 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. arriving was to secure food and lodging ; and in this I was essentially successful, although I experienced some difficulty in regard to the latter point, for I was compelled to content myself with an unfurnished lodging, and to hire a bed from one person, a table from another, and a bench and shelves from a third. At length my arrangements were sufficiently com- pleted to admit of my unpacking my books, instru- ments, and bottles. These preliminaries so com- pletely occupied the whole day, that I had to defer the commencement of my explorations till the following morning. By break of day I was on foot, searching for some elevated point, from whence I might survey at a glance the whole extent of my island. This I found to be impossible, for Brehat is a perfect little continent, with plains, elevated table-land, and chains of mountains which effectually mask one another, all of course in the miniature style, and on a scale proportioned to the size of the island, which measures about two miles from north to south. I was obliged therefore to examine the wdiole in detail ; and after briefly consulting the map, I began my excursions. Brehat, taken as a whole, may be said to present very nearly the form of the figure eight, deeply indented by innumerable little bays and bristling with a multitude of small capes. It was formerly divided into two distinct islands, which were sepa- rated during high tide by an arm of the sea about twenty yards in width. At the period when Yauban was examining our coast-line with a view of organ- isins: the best means of defence ao;ainst maritime THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 73 attacks, a broad causeway was thrown up between the ishxnds under his directions, and a communica- tion thus secured between the two during all con- ditions of the tide. The bay which separates these two northern and southern portions is a muddy basin tolerably well sheltered from the north wind, and called La Corderie. The sailors however ap- pear with good reason to prefer Port Clos, a little bay entering the most southern shore of the island and flicing the coast of Brittany. Here the land, after rising in a gradual slope towards the sea, appears suddenly to open and separate into two rugged pro- montories, which, curving inwards at their extreme points, serve as a protecting breastwork to the circular basin enclosed within their area. So sheltered is this bay, that during the high tides of the equinoxes, and in heavy gales, when the whole ocean seems to be raging against the island, which it encircles in one belt of white foam, the middle of Port Clos is scarcely rippled by the waves which its natural dykes throw back on either side of it. With the exception of these and a few other spots, where small craft might find safe anchorage, the entire circuit of the island presented nothing but a steep rocky coast, where it was difficult even for mere sloops to make a landing. Granite occurs here in every kind of form and variety, associated with several species of the neighbouring rocks. Pegmatite, which by its decomposition yields kaolin, occurs either in sli2;ht veins intersectins; each other in all directions, or in masses of a beautiful red colour and crystallised in large grains. Other veins of syenite 74 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of tolerable thickness run through the general mass in an almost constant direction from north-east to south-west. Here and there quartz occurs in de- tached masses of a dull white colour, or in veins as transparent as the purest crystal; Avhilst grains of iron in the state of peroxide are occasionally met with in these rocky formations. I could nowhere observe the homogeneous and compact structure which has made the granite of Chausey so deservedly celebrated ; indeed the rock of Brehat appears, from the numerous veins which intersect it, and from the diversity of its character at every few feet, to be utterly valueless in a commercial point of view. This difference of structure in the rocks of Brehat and Chausey explains the difference observable in the general aspect of the coasts of the two islands. At Chausey, the massive strata of granite, after un- dersioino; a slow disinteo-ration under the action of the currents and waves, leave enormous blocks standing isolated from the general mass, which, from the very disorder of the formations around them, present a certain appearance of imposing grandeur. There is nothincy of this kind to be seen at Brehat, where the isolated rocks are little more than large detached stones. There are many points along the coasts of Chausey where the sea breaks against the rocks with a violence that gives the observer the idea of some vast convulsion of nature; for the scene around seems to suggest an analogy with the fragments of an up- heaved and broken world. Now, althouo;h there are such fragments at Brehat, they have nothing striking in their character, and I have seen many a feudal THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 75 tower in Alsatia and Germany whose rums might be advantageously compared in point of grandeur with the rocks and boulders of this coast. Several islands and an infinite number of rocks grouped around Brehat, combine to form a little ar- chipelago, which extends in a south-westerly direction towards the mouth of the River Pontrieux, and is longitudinally divided by the principal island into two unequal parts. To the east lie Logodec, Lavrec, and Raguenez-Meur, which are separated from Brehat by a tortuous arm of the sea, named La Chambre ; to the west Beniguet, Raguenez-Bras and Grouezen extend in a straight line along: the shore of a second channel, called Le Kerpont, which is cele- brated in the district for the violence of its currents. None of these islands equal Brehat in extent or im- portance. Beniguet, indeed, can boast of a few farm-houses and about thirty inhabitants, but the others are deserted. They are not, however, the less carefully cultivated on that account, for every rock, whose summit is covered by a few square feet of mould, is strictly appropriated and used as pasture ground for cattle or sheep ; or, Avhere the proprietor is not possessed of any of these animals, the grass is given up to a few goats, who here find ample scope for the indulgence of their instinctive love of climbing. It would seem that at some remote period the in- habitants were more equably scattered over the islands of the archipelago. Several of these isolated masses of rock still exhibit the remains of former buildings, which were probably occupied by fisher- 76 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. men or smiio-o-lers. L'lle Verte, situated on the eastern margin of the archipelago, even possessed at one time a monastery, which was dependent upon the rich Abbey of Beaa})ort. Without being able to define the precise period when this religious asylum was founded, it is easy to see from the mere appearance of the rains that it must have been erected, probably in times of trouble, to serve the purpose of a citadel quite as much as of a convent. The buildings occupy the entire surface of the island, and look down from every side upon a deep precipice. Even at low tide, the rocks on which they are placed are almost entirely encompassed by the waves and washed by impetuous currents. The only point of approach is guarded by two large isolated rocks, which serve the purpose of a breakwater ; and here the remains of two parallel dykes formed by enormous blocks of unhewn stone still mark the position of the landing place. A steep ascent led from the shore to a narrow and arched postern door cut in a wall, nearly ten feet in thickness. This solitary means of entrance was guarded on either side by two towers, whose foundations may still be traced among broken stones and rampant weeds. A straight path leading directly from the door divided the extensive range of buildings into two nearly equal parts. No portion of this ancient edifice is standing : the path of which I have spoken is choked with brambles and fennel ; while waving corn and straggling peas and beans have usurped the place of vast halls, whose site may still be traced by the pieces of wall which yet remain. At the ex- THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 77 tremity of the edifice, which faced the open sea, the walls of a narrow donjon or keep surmount a preci- pitous rock. I asked myself whether it had been intended as a place of refuge, or as a beacon tower, and whether the light which gleamed from its summit was reared on high to announce to the storm-tossed mariner that friendly aid was near to succour him, or whether it was planted there by pirates thirsting for their bloody waifs, like the monks of Chausey. In vain did I interrogate the oldest of the fishermen who frequented L'lle Verte : none could explain the mystery ; for tradition does not inform us whether the dwellers of this rocky fastness were pious cenobites or wily brigands, nor does it even reveal to us the cause or the period of the destruction of the monastery. Concealed as it were behind a belt of granite, and exhibiting nothing to the eye of the distant ob- server but rock-capped hills, Brehat appears to pre- sent the aspect of an inhospitable soil, incapable of maintaining life. A cursory view of the interior of the island at once proves the fallacy of this appear- ance, for a closer examination of the ground shows that the whole of this rocky base is covered with a stratum of vegetable soil, whose extreme fertility has been improved by careful industry. I have seen very few parts of France in which the land was so com- pletely and usefully employed. There are many points, indeed, at which the rocky skeleton of the island may be seen projecting upwards, in the form of heavy masses or sharp needles ; but the base of these rocks is covered with crops of grain and ve- 78 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. getables, whose abundance affords ample testimony of the richness of the soil. Communication between the different parts of the island is maintained by means of roads traversing each other in all directions, and whose proportions are strictly calculated to meet the wants of a locality, in which not a cart or horse is to be seen. Very few of these paths admit of more than two men walking abreast, and the broadest of all, extending from one end of the island to the other, which may be regarded as a sort of first- class line, scarcely allows of two cows passing each other. All these roads, however, are carefully marked along the fields which they cross, and tended and trimmed like garden walks, — a circumstance which contributes in a great degree to give the country a general air of order and plenty, very different from the misery and want of cleanliness which have usually been regarded as the inseparable companions of the peasantry of Lower Brittany. This rich and smiling district is interspersed here and there with small groups of habitations, dis- tinguished by the title of villages, and all bearing names in which the concurrence of the sounds ker and ec produce words which seem rather inharmo- nious to French ears. The chief of these settlements is known as the Bourg ; and here stand the town- house and the church, — buildings in which the most momentous events of human life are transacted, alike in the humblest village and the proudest city. There are moreover two schools in the place, kept by pious brothers and sisters of the Church. Three or four taverns in great request on Sundays, and a reading THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 79 room where two newspapers are taken, combine to secure supremacy to the Bourg, and to constitute it the true capital of the island. For the rest, here as in all the other villages, the country maintains its characteristic physiognomy. The streets, although narrow and irregular, are always clean. The houses are generally surrounded by small gardens, planted with flowers and fruit-trees, and resemble in many respects the rural habitations of Alsatia, which is perhaps the most genuinely rich province of France. These remarks apply more especially to the southern half of the island. Immediately after cross- ing Vauban's causeway and passing the neighbouring houses, the character of the country changes suddenly, everything bearing a wild and rugged aspect. The rocks are more numerous and more elevated, and in proportion as they encroach upon the soil they render It less fertile. Vegetation is less active ; the crops are less luxuriant, wheat being here replaced by oats ; while in many parts nothing is to be seen but broom and ferns. The habitations seem to have succumbed to the same laws of decadence, for they gradually become lower and more squalid, courts and gardens disappear, and finally, on reaching Kerwa- reva, the last village which we pass in going north- ward, nothing is to be seen but huts built of rough stone, imperfectly cemented with the mud from the shore, and covered with sods. The inhabitants even exhibit an air of rouo-hness and almost wildness in their persons, which contrasts with the greater polish of their more southern neighbours. In the south every one speaks French, or at all events under- 80 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. stands the language when others speak it; but in the north I rarely succeeded in making myself under- stood when I wished to obtain the simplest informa- tion. I learnt subsequently that wholly local cus- toms prevail in the north, and that Breton words are in use there which are not heard in the other parts of the island ; indeed the inhabitants of the north of Brehat are distinguished, even by their accent, from those of the south. At some distance from Kerwareva rises the Pointe du Paon, forming the northern extremity of the island, which alone presents any of that character of wild beauty so common at Chausey. The very rarity of these features tends perhaps to augment their charm by imparting to them an air of grand sublimity. Beyond the last houses of the village, the empire of man seems to give place to the elements of air and water, which here dispute the supremacy over this desolate res-ion. A barren heath lies before us, where stunted ferns divide the thin crust of vege- table soil with the straggling plants which spring up from a layer of bog, rendered brackish by being con- stantly sprinkled by the foam of the waves. Soon the ferns even cease to appear. Lowly as they are, they are ever being bent and broken beneath the lash of the storms, which pour with full force upon this exposed slope. Here and there fine soft grass as smooth as velvet replaces the ruder vegetation, but it is unable to extend to the extreme point, for there the sea reigns supreme, or rather it may be said to carry on a never-ceasing warfare with the giant rocks, w^hich THE AECHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 81 alone protect this part of the island from its en- croacliments. The Paon is composed of two enormous banks of granite, which, upheaved from the sea's bottom, rise far above the contiguous land, inclining towards one another as if for mutual protection. The sea has opened for itself a narrow passage between the per- pendicular rocks, which reminds us of Roland's Pass. The traveller at first advances between these two walls on a level with the beach, without encounterino; any obstacle beyond a few large stones rubbed smooth by the friction of the waters, but at the end of a few paces a subterranean rumbling of waters warns him to retrace his steps. Before him yawns a chasm Avhich is scarcely three feet across at its mouth, but which widens towards high- water mark, until it expands into a colossal funnel. A block of granite, weighing many hundreds of tons, which must have been detached by some storm from the rocks above, rests like a massive bridge upon the two oppo- site banks of the gulf which it spans. When the heavy sea strikes the shore, the waves rush with accelerated force through the narrow enclosure of these rocks, and in striving to force their way below the bridge exert an incalculable amount of force, which enables them to raise the enormous mass. When this obstacle is passed, the waves break into foam and mist, which are projected vertically up- wards in a huge white column, and the bridge falls back to its unshaken supports, to be again and again upheaved as the rushing waters rise beneath it. This struggle, which has probably endured for ages, will VOL. I. G 82 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. only terminate with the rupture of this transverse rocky mass, unless the overhanging walls, shaken by their incessant warfare with the ocean, should suc- cumb, and in their fall bury the huge bridge and the Pass of the Paon in one common wreck. This remarkable spot enjoys an immense reputa- tion both at Brehat and on the neighbouring coasts as a place of divination. The young girl, who wishes to know how long she has yet to wait before she can exchange the circlet of betrothal for the marriage ring, goes unaccompanied to the point of the Paon at the time of low water during the spring- tide. She picks up a pebble on a particular part of the beach, and advancing to the entrance of the passage throws the stone into the yawning chasm. If the stone falls to the very bottom of the abyss without rebounding against the rock, the maiden returns to her home with a lightsome step, for she knows to a certainty that she will marry before the year is closed. Woe be to the poor thing if the stone has swerved from its course^ for every rebound of the pebble against the rock, adds a year of weary waiting ; and thus the maidens who consult the oracles too often return with saddened hearts. The chasm of the Paon which has been hollowed out by the constant rushinjr of the waters between the two banks of rocks is by no means perpendicular ; hence it requires a certain address, which few women possess, to throw a stone with unerring aim to the bottom without touching the sides ; indeed the main essential to the success of the charm is that the stone should be thrown at random. THE AKClIirELAGO OF BREHAT. 83 The island of Brehat forms a separate commune, and numbers about fifteen hundred inhabitants. The population, isolated in its own remote corner of the world, combines the niggardly and prying spirit of the inhabitants of small towns with the egotistical and exclusive character of islanders. The Brehatain does not consider himself a Frenchman ; he scarcely regards himself as a Breton ; and every stranger is looked upon as a sort of Pariah, whose society is sedulously shunned alike by the richest proprietor and the poorest day-labourer. The country people extend this kind of interdict to their compatriots of the opposite coast, notwith- standing the community of manners, and more especially of language, by which they are associated. During my stay a young girl from the Continent, who had been engaged as a servant by one of the islanders, refused to remain in service in Brehat, because, according to her statement, there was not a woman who would speak to her wdien they met at the well, or in coming out of church. This strongly marked spirit of local attachment may perhaps be explained by tracing the origin of the population amongst whom it is so strikingly mani- fested. The Brehatains constitute a perfectly dis- tinct variety of the Breton race. They very rarely exhibit the round head, full face, blue eyes and light or reddish hair, which appear to constitute the characteristic traits of the Breton type. Among the Brehatains, on the contrary, one meets frequently with long and delicately chiselled oval faces, asso- ciated with large expressive black eyes and fine soft G 2 84 BAMBLES OF A XATUKALIST. black or chestnut hair. These characteristics seem to betray a southern origin. It is highly probable indeed that the daring Basque seamen of the middle ao^es should have amalo^amated with the natives of Bretagne on their annual visits to its shores in search of cod and mackerel, or when engaged in the pursuit of the whale, and that the Brehatain race should have sprung from the fusion of the Yascon and Armorican blood. I ought to observe, however, that my remarks are of necessity limited to the women of the island. Every Brehatain seems born a sailor, and as soon as he is old enough to serve as a cabin boy he leaves the island ; after a time he returns to take a wife from among his compatriots, but marriage does not bind him more closely to terra firma. It is only when the weight of years compels him to relinquish the dangers and exposure of a sailor's life that he permanently settles on shore. In consequence of these habits, the indigenous population of the island is composed almost exclusively of women, children, and old men, the latter of whom are all superannuated seamen. In 1832 Brehat contained one vice- admiral, six commanders of vessels, and several lieutenants. At this period the cholera cut off almost the whole generation of old seamen, who had survived the storms and troubles of the long wars of the Republic and the Empire. At the present day there only remain some few lieutenants and one captain, the grandson of the brave Cornic, who was alike celebrated for his courage and for the perse- cutions which his merit brought upon him at the THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 85 hands of those holding higher command than him- self. The emigration of the male population leaves in the charge of the women the entire superintendence of all field labours, in addition to the care of their households. They are also obliged to combine with the culture of the fields the labour of procuring the fuel necessary for the long and tempestuous season of winter, and to prepare the food required for home consumption. On an island like Brehat, the land is too fully occupied to leave space for the growing of trees; which, moreover, could not be made available till after the lapse of many years. Fruit trees are the only trees to be seen in the island. All the wood used for firing comes from the main land ; but as it is very expensive, it is reserved for the liouses of the rich, while the poorer people burn the broom and ferns, which they collect from the less fertile parts of the island. They also use the Fucus detached from the rocks, and even strips of turf, which they dry with all the roots attached to the mould. Un- fortunately, however, both these kinds of fuel have the inconvenience of emitting a great deal of smoke and a very unpleasant odour; on this account a sub- stance, known as bois dlierbes, is generally preferred. It will be necessary, however, to explain the mean- ins; of the term. I had been struck from my first arrival with the circumstance, that although there were a large number of cows on the island, I had not met with any of those unpleasant traces of their presence which they generally leave on their track. I very G 3 86 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. soon discovered that these unsightly remains of digestion were carefully collected by the islanders, who pounded them together with chopped straw, and employed the compound as a substitute for wood or other fuel. The method of drying this substance consists in spreading large masses of it against the sides of a rock or wall, and leaving it exposed to the action of the sun and air until it is thoroughly dried and can be detached in large flat cakes. I have often seen otherwise well kept houses covered with this singular tapestry, which certainly would seem more in harmony with the re- ligious ideas of the Hindoos than with those which we entertain in France in relation to cleanliness. I have been informed that the hois (Tlierhes gives a clear and bright flame free from smoke or from any oflensive smell. In addition to the native Brehatains, the island contains an isolated colony of strangers. Brehat serves as one of the principal stations for the coast- guard, and there is generally a large number of these officers on the island, who are constantly engaged in trying to overcome the artifices and incessant activity of the smugglers. On account of the importance of the island in the event of a maritime war, several of- ficials connected with the war administration are always quartered at Brehat. Like a true fortress, the place has its commandant, who, however, is only a non-commissioned officer ; its garrison, which con- sists of seventeen men, including the sergeant and corporal in command ; its second in command, who is no less a personage than the mayor, and the master THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 87 of the fortifications, a worthy citizen, who has the charge of the coast-guard ammunition. There is not any very great harmony among these petty military authorities, who all advance pretensions to supremacy, and whose quarrels would be even more vindictive if it were not for the calm and pacifying spirit of the keeper of the ammunition, who alone, from the nature and extent of the materials entrusted to his care, is invested with any real importance. The climate of Brehat is remarkably mild ; snow rarely falls, and it is only in extremely severe seasons that the earth retains the white coating of winter for more than a day or two. Owing to this circumstance many plants thrive on the island which are com- monly regarded as peculiar to southern climates. The myrtle, amongst others, grows freely in the open air, and attains a considerable size, contributing greatly to the adornment of the better class of houses, which are frequently covered with the shining green foliage of these beautiful shrubs, interspersed with which are festoons of roses trained on trellis work; and yet Brehat is situated very nearly in the same latitude as Alsace, and Strasburg lies about half a degree fur- ther south, notwithstanding which the river on which this city is built freezes every year to such a thickness that the inhabitants are able with safety to skate upon its surface. Now in order to obtain ice thick enough for this purpose, we must assume that the temperature has remained far below the freezing point for some days. This difference of temperature be- tween two localities placed at the same distance from the pole, is explained by one of those great G 4 88 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. phenomena which modern science has been able to elucidate in regard to the surface of the earth. It is to the Gulf Stream that Bretagne generally, and Brehat in particular, owes these climatic relations which at first sight seem so extraordinary. This great current of waters, after being warmed by the heat of the equator and of the tropics, emerges from the Gulf of Mexico, and taking the direction of Europe, separates into different branches, one of which, driven northward by the Spanish peninsula, strikes upon the shores of Bretagne. Here it pene- trates into the channel, and surrounds Brehat with its still tepid waves. While, however, it protects this little island from the rigour of winter, it entails upon it an extreme degree of humidity, to which medical men refer the rheumatic affections, and more especially the stubborn forms of ophthalmia, which afflict a large proportion of the population. Although Brehat presents considerable resem- blance to the largest island of Chausey in respect to the nature of its soil, climate and vegetation, it differs in having an area eight or ten times larger. If we bring this circumstance to bear in examining the animals which inhabit this island, we shall find that we may aptly apply to these two islands that beau- tiful law of general zoology, which was propounded by the genius of our great Buffon, and after having been long denied by naturalists, is now daily ac- quiring additional confirmation in proportion to the constant advances made in science. Buffon laid it down as a principle, that the numbers and size of the different species of animals living upon a continent THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 89 or an island, correspond with the extent of land ap- propriated to them, so that they diminish in number and size in proportion to the diminution of the ha- bitable space around them. This proposition is true with regard to the case in point. We find at Brehat ail the species of mammals, birds and reptiles be- longing to Chausey, while each of these classes is represented by several additional forms ; in the first division, we have the ermine and polecat, in the second the linnet and blackbird, and in the third the common adder and the newt. The aquatic birds seem, however, to present an exception to the rule, for there are fewer species than at Chausey, and those which are met with are of a smaller size ; this apparent contradiction may, however, be explained by the fact that the channels of Brehat are not so well stocked with fish as those in the Chausey ar- chipelago, and that consequently there is nothing to attract these birds, which, moreover, are distinguished by their wandering habits from the true representa- tives of the native fauna. It is worthy of notice that the Mammals of Brehat number amongst their representatives two species of the genus Mus, namely, the mouse and the black rat. The black rat, which has become more and more rare, is disappearing daily from the continent of Europe in consequence of a revolution, not less bloody, though less generally known than those which the barbarians of the north brought in former times upon the empires of the more civilised world. For ages, the mouse, which was the only representative of this family known to the ancients, lived at our ex- 90 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. pense with no enemy to fear in its quasi-domestic state save man, whom it pillaged, and the cat, which the lords of creation had called to their aid against an adversary which had been rendered formidable by its very diminutiveness and timidity. Daring the middle ages, the black rat, coming no one knew from whence, spread itself over Europe and attacked the mouse, who, too feeble to resist his ferocious antagonist, was obliged to share with him his old haunts, only escaping complete destruction by re- tiring within his narrow galleries, whither the enemy could not pursue him. At the beginning of the last century, the Norway, or brown rat, brought by mer- chant vessels from India, appeared in Europe, and at once began to wage an exterminating war against the black rat. Its greater strength, ferocity, and fecundity enabled it rapidly to gain ground. This rat first appeared in England in 1730; twenty years later it was observed in France ; but at the period when BufFon wrote his immortal work, it was only met with in the environs of Paris, and had not yet penetrated to the city. At the present day it is the only rat met with in the capital and in the greater part of the provinces. Its partiality for the water and the readiness with which it swims have enabled it to follow the courses of rivers, and by ascending the smallest affluents it has contrived to diffuse itself over the whole country. It has driven the black rat before it, exterminating it in many of our pro- vinces, and forcing it to take refuge in mills, or isolated farms. At Chausey I could not see a single specimen of the black rat, whilst its formidable THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 91 enemy abounds everywhere, and will most probably soon traverse the narrow arm of the sea, which se- parates Brehat from the continent, so that the last of the black rats will without doubt, in the course of a few years, fall a victim to the fury of Its voracious congener. The interest which appertains to these terrestrial and aerial populations had not, however, been the at- traction which drew me to Brehat, and I therefore prepared, the day after my arrival, to explore my domain. As soon as the sea had retired from the shore, I set forth with a tin box suspended from a leather belt which was strapped across my shoulders, my pockets well filled with tubes and bottles, and my broad iron spud In my hand. The first few hours of this exploration were painfully unsatisfactory. Full of the recollections of the zoological treasures which the Sacaviron of Chausey so bountifully displays, it was long before I could discover anything worthy of notice in the midst of the desolate barrenness which surrounded me on all sides. The channels of Brehat present a singular appearance, owing to the violent currents by which they are constantly traversed. Wherever the force of the waves finds free scope, it undermines and disintegrates the rocks, which crumble into fragments too small and unstable to afford shelter to any large number of animals, whilst the sands are too well washed to furnish an adequate supply of food. The few sheltered points which the coast presents are generally encumbered with detri- tus, reduced to the condition of semi-fluid mud, and covered with immense tracts of Zostera, forming a 92 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. treacherous bottom, which gives way beneath the feet of those who unwarily trust in its seeming security. I could not see any of that muddy sand which seems so favourite a place of resort for Annelids, nor did I discover any of those picturesque grottoes, in which simple and compound Ascidians, Sponges and Alcyons clothe the roof, from which they hang sus- pended like living stalactites. My courage sank, I confess, but still I persevered, investigating every- thing that fell in my way. By degrees my hopes re- vived, until at length my discouragement entirely gave place to the most gratifying assurance of success. I found that there were certain points where the sand and mud were blended together in proportions which seemed to promise a rich harvest, and I dis- covered that entire populations were sheltered be- neath the very rocks which I had so heartily con- demned. Tn truth, it required the skill and hard blows of a true quarryman to dislodge these animals from their retreats. I saw that I had hard work before me, but I thought only of the recompense by which my labours would assuredly be rewarded, and the difficulties of the search did not appal me. Without further consideration, I set to work, and from the first day my expeditions were crowned with success, for I always returned home laden with treasures which afforded ample materials for work. In the present state of modern science, the inferior animals present a very great degree of interest. In the former chapter, while describing my mode of life at Chausey, I endeavoured to show how the anatomist, who reveals the material instruments of life, and THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 93 the physiologist, who attempts to penetrate into the inmost recesses of their structure for the purpose of studying their modes of action, will often find that the simpler types of animal life furnish us with numerous data for the elucidation of many of the problems which nature has presented to us^ although these data may have been unsuccessfully sought for in beings of higher development. An in- timate acquaintance with these classes, which have hitherto been too much neglected, is equally necessary to the zoologist who, with a just appreciation of what is due to the character of his science, avails himself of the light afforded by anatomy and physiology, while he does not neglect the study of the relations by which living beings are connected together. I will, however, somewhat more fully develop my views of this subject. When, after the first attempts to classify animal species, naturalists arrived at some general ideas, the fact of the relative superiority and inferiority of the animals which they studied must have been one of the first thino;s which struck them. At the one ex- tremity of the chain of comparison stood a portion of the Mammalia, at the other appeared the Worms and Zoophytes. The numerous intermediate forms pre- sentinsj themselves between these extreme limits save rise to the idea of an uninterrupted animal series, ex- tending through a succession of progressive degrada- tions, from man, who comprehends and controls nature by his intelligence and perfect organisation, down to the sponge, which appears from its am- biguous structure to be equally referrible to either 94 KAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of the three kingdoms of nature.* This doctrine, which was generally adopted, was simple, and ap- * Bonnet, who was one of the principal supporters in Natural History of this doctrine of continuity, which Leibnitz employed to a certain extent as the basis of his philosophy, was born at Geneva, in 1720, and died in the same town in 1793. This natural philosopher devoted himself with much ardour to microscopical studies, and his researches on the reproduction of the Aphides, on Fission, and on Vegetation proved that he possessed, to a high degree, a talent for observation. In consequence of partial loss of sight, he abstained from scientific pursuits, and devoted himself to those philosophical and religious meditations which the contemplation of nature inspires. Cuvier justly and forcibly denounced the false and dan- gerous views which Bonnet had endeavoured to introduce into science by this doctrine of continuity, and although this hypothesis is generally abandoned at the present day it was also maintained by Bucrotay de Blainville, who was born at Arques, in 1778, and who died in Paris in 1850, after having attained to the dignity of a seat in the Institute, and to a Professor's chair at the Jardin des Plantes and the Faculty of Sciences at Paris. In his youth he was exposed to many vicissitudes, for while a student at the Military School at Beaumont, he escaped from the establishment and concealed himself on board a vessel of war, from whence he came to Paris, and was successively a pupil at the Conservatoire of Music, and a student in a painter's atelier. Up to the age of twenty-seven he had not directed his attention to science, when a lecture, which he acciden- tally heard from Cuvier, decided his vocation. Two years after- wards he took the degree of Doctor of Medicine, and had become the intimate friend of Cuvier ; but his irritable and captious temper did not allow him to maintain these friendly relations. He was no sooner nominated Professor by concours to the Faculty of Sciences than he began to wage war against the labours of the man who had been the first to give him a helping hand. This opposition, which often warped his judgment and made him unjust, continued to the end of his life. Blainville's reputation was due in a great measure to this determined opposition to Cuvier, although he undoubtedly possessed a keen and vigorous intellect. He lectured exceedingly well, and he has left several important works, anion 2st others the THE ARCHirELAGO OF BREHAT. 95 peared to be logical. But nature, who is alwa3's simple in the laws by which she is regulated, is very rarely simple in the manifestation of those laws. In the production of living beings as well as in the creation of organic bodies, nature in her ascending progress has followed no mathematical straight line ; her creations are developed in all directions. Science in its unceasing progress has elucidated this truth^ and in the present day the words zoological series and animal scale are employed by the great majority of naturalists merely in a figurative and relative sense. But if the unity of the animal series is a chimera, what general idea can we substitute for this con- ception of our predecessors ? On the first exami- nation of a species we perceive that it possesses two kinds of characters. The first kind isolates it from contiguous species, and individualises it in space and time; the second connects together a certain number of these individualities, and associates them in more or less strictly defined groups. What we have just said of species may be equally well ob- served in respect to elementary groups ; and it is by the appreciation of more or less general characters, that the naturalist, passing on through ascending groups, reaches the kingdom^ which embraces all the secondary divisions known as sub-kingdoms, di- visions and sub-divisions, classes, orders, families, tribes, and genera. To ascertain the subordination Manuel de Malacologie, Manuel d'Actinologie, Histoire des Sciences de r Organisation, and a host of memoirs. It is to be regretted that his magnificent Osteographie remained unfinished at his death. 96 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of these different groups, to recognise their true relations by an exact appreciation of their resem- blances and differences, and to calculate to a certain extent their proximity or divergence, this is the problem which modern science proposes to solve, — a problem of immense difficulty, towards the solution of which we are undoubtedly advancing, although it must be admitted that our progress is effected with a tardiness necessitated by the cha- racter of the inquiry. Many centuries will probably elapse before na- turalists will acquire sufficient knowledge of animals definitely to establish primary, secondary, and ter- tiary groups. There are some groups, however, wdiich may be regarded as thoroughly fixed, even in the present day. Whenever we study one of these truly natural groups, wdienever we weigh and ap- preciate all its characters, we are led almost invo- luntarily to conceive some ideal or virtual type which mio^ht reunite these characters in the hio^hest possible degree. But there will always be a discre- pancy between this type and its manifestation in existing species. It is thus that Man and Woman have never hitherto presented a complete realisation of the beauty which painters and sculptors have dreamed of, and which a few of them have imper- fectly succeeded in tracing on canvass or in chisel- ling from the rock. In all natural groups, we encounter a certain number of species which present, in a high degree, the characteristic impress of their type. There are others, on the contrary, in which this impression THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 97 seems to have become indistinct. Now, these modi- fications of type may be the result of three different causes, acting either conjointly or separately. The distinctive characters may have been partly or wholly obliterated ; they may be intensified, or lastly they may be complicated with extraneous charac- teristics, whose tendency is either to destroy existing relations or to establish new affinities. As Ions* as these alterations do not pass beyond certain limits, the animal, although he has to some extent departed from his ideal type, still bears some affinity to it ; but once pass these limits, and we have a new type. When the changes to which we refer result from the suppression of characters which are essential to the first group, or when different or even opposite characters are manifested, the types can obviously exhibit only very slight affinity with one another. Such is not the case, however, when the modifications arise solely from the exaggeration or diminution of an existing character. Then the new type will be merely a derivative of the former: and however great the apparent diversities by which it is dis- tinguished may be, the source from which it has emanated will always admit of being traced. Thus, by way of illustration, we may instance Mammals, Birds and Fishes, which all belong to one primitive type, that of the Vertebrata, although they form three well marked and distinct types. On the other hand, we may cite the bat, which moves through the air, and the whale, which pursues its course through the waves of the sea : yet the first is not on this account a bird, nor is the second a fish, but both are mammalcJ VOL. I. H 98 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. modified for flying or for swimming ; they are deri- vatives of the great types of the Mammalia. It will be readily understood that there is no fixed limit to the number of these derivatives, and that every primitive type may engender several, whose diver- gences will vary in accordance with the intensity and diversity of the modifications from which they have orio-inated. At this point of our inquiries, the entire mass of beings which we have been studying will appear to us to be decomposed into a somewhat limited number of primitive types, around which their immediate derivative types are disposed at various distances, and in accordance with a certain order. These are in their turn surrounded by secondary derivatives, and so on in a consecutive series. Existing species may all be classified within this theoretical animal kino-dom, being distributed in accordance w^ith the degree of resemblance which they present to their ideal types. It is thus that the celestial bodies, grouped together in a thousand diflerent ways, gravitate around one another, with their planetary attendants circling round them either isolated or accompanied by satellites. On our earth, no less than in celestial space, we find that nature faithfully adheres to those wondrous laws of analogy which she observes in all her grander manifestations, and thus we behold on the surface of our globe the same spectacle of unity and harmony which, in the im- mensity of space, strikes the senses with the pro- foundest impressions of wonder and admiration. The absolute ideal type of the animal has never THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 99 been realised. The perfect animal, if it could exist on the earth, should combine within itself the rarest qualities which are now disseminated over a great number of different species. It should move with the sure-footedness and velocity of the Dziggeta, that wild species of the genus horse which, according to the traditions of the Mongols, serves as the steed of the god of fire ; it should pass through the air with the rapidity of the swift, and sustain its flight like the frigate bird, which is met with six hundred miles from land, and which can therefore traverse a space of more than twelve hundred miles without for an instant stopping the play of its wings, the length of which precludes the possibility of its pausing to rest on the surface of the waves. This perfect animal should be able to plunge to the depths of the sea, and cleave the tempestuous waves with the rapidity of the dolphin and the persistence of the shark, which follows in the wake of a vessel from America to Europe, and thus, without pausing, accomplishes a voyage of some three thousand miles, whose extent may be said to be tripled or quadrupled by the thousand detours which intervene along the route. To these faculties, which appertain to the province of locomotion, he should join the strength of the elephant or whale, and the unerring scent of the hound, the delicate touch of the bat, the acute hearing of the mole, and the piercing sight of the con- dor, which, soaring above the Cordilleras, detects the smallest prey browsing in the plain more than four thousand yards below him. He should combine, for means of attack and defence, the formidable claws 100 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. and terrible jaws of the tiger, with the impenetrable cuirass of the crocodile, and the envenomed tooth of the rattlesnake. Finally, all these different attri- butes should be united in a body, combining the grace of the kitten with the majestic calmness of tiie lion in repose, and adorned with the dazzling colours of the humming bird and the bird of paradise. Existing animals exhibit only partial analogies with the imaginary creature, whose principal charac- teristics we have endeavoured to trace. The types of existing species fall far short of this standard of perfection, although some approach it more nearly than others. Hence arise superior and inferior typesy and hence also we have widely differing, although not less equally perfect, types. The study of these dif- ferent degrees of perfection of type, and of the subordination to which they give rise, probably presents a greater difficulty than any other branch of zoological research. The success of such inquiries will be greatly influenced by the naturalist bearing in mind the principle of the division of labour which the following comparison may tend to illustrate and explain. In the early infancy of human industry, the tiller of the ground turns up the earth with the spade which he has himself forged ; he reaps the flax he has sowed, and cleans, combs and spins it himself. Next he constructs a rude loom, fabricates a rough spindle, and proceeds to weave according to his best ability the fabric which is to serve for his clothing. As time passes he is enabled to provide himself with more perfect tools from some neighbour, who passes THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 101 his life in manufacturing farming utensils, looms or spindles. Still later, lie sells his yarn to a weaver, who has never handled a blacksmith's hammer, a woodsman's axe, or a carpenter's saw. In proportion as each department of labour is left in the hands of persons who devote themselves exclusively to its ex- ecution, or, in other words, in proportion as labour is subdivided, the final result is rendered more and more perfect. It is the same with animals. In order to insure the accomplishment of nutrition and reproduction, that is to say, the preservation of the individual and of the species, many secondary functions are neces- sarily brought into play. Again, in order that these processes may be performed with readiness and com- pleteness, it is necessary that each should be performed by some special organ or physiological in- strument. In other words, it is essential to subdivide tlie functionallabour as far as possible. Such is the general character of the highest types, as, for instance, of the majority of the Mammalia. In the lower types, on the contrary, two or more functions are ap- portioned to the same organ, until as we descend to the Sponge and the Ama3ba, which constitute the last representatives of the animal kingdom, we find that all the functions are confounded in one organised living mass, exhibiting nothing more than a homoge- neous pulp, the result of the entire fusion of all the orojanic elements. It follows from this, that an animal, or an or- ganism, becomes degraded whenever the functional labour exhibits a diminished tendejicy towards subdivi- H 3 102 RAMBLES OF A NATUEALIST. sion. This second principle, which is in some degree the counterpart of the former, is not the less impor- tant in zooloo-ical investio;ation. It is essential to understand in what manner certain progressively lower types may approximate towards some one other type, since it is only by an inquiry of this kind that we shall be enabled to attach any precise signi- fication to the epithet inferior, which is often employed in the vaguest manner. For example, the mammals are unquestionably more perfect than the fishes. These two types are, however, each de- graded in their respective directions ; thus we have higher mammals and higher Jishes as well as loioer mammals and loicer jishes, and the same difference of perfection is manifested in all the great divisions of the animal kingdom. It is from a misconception of the principles which we have here briefly touched upon that most of our illustrious masters have fallen into grave errors. It is true that we occasionally meet with expressions in some of their writings which seem to imply that they had confused notions of these facts ; still no one had clearly demonstrated or applied them before M. Milne Edwards, who has expressed himself in the most explicit manner in reference to this subject both in his lectures and his published works, more especially in the introduction to his great work on the history of the Crustaceans, If on my part I have arrived at analogous results, it is certainly entirely owing to the fact of my having followed the example set more than twenty years ago by that naturalist, and devoting myself, with the same per- THE AKCHIPELAGO OP BREHAT. 103 severance wliicli he had shown, to the study of the lower animals on the borders of the sea. In fine, types are the more fixed in proportion as they are more perfect. In those animals which approximate the most closely to this standard, the organism is extremely complicated, and it would seem that nature does not necessarily interfere with essential characters in producing a large number of derivatives. In the Yertebrata, for instance, whose primordial type gives origin to four classes, viz., mammals, birds, reptiles, and fishes, the general plan merely undergoes different secondary modifica- tions. The external forms are changed to facilitate some special mode of locomotion ; the lungs become metamorphosed into branchias, in order to allow of respiration in the water, but yet we find, in passing from the ape, which by its organisation approximates most closely to man, and descending to the lowest type of fishes, that nearly the same functions are fulfilled by a nearly equal number of organs disposed in an analogous if not an identical manner.* Those whose attention has been mainly directed towards the higher animals can form no idea of the extent to which organic degradation is carried; and hence, whenever their inquiries happen to lead them to * The AwpJiioxus forms one of the most remarkable exceptions to this general rule. This fish, if we may call it by that name, exhibits, in the Vertebrata, an example of extreme degradation, which we should not have expected to meet with in any but the Invertebrata. It ought therefore to be formed into a special class, if it did not appear strange to constitute so important a subdivision for one or at most only two species. H 4 104 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. inferior types, they are naturally induced to reject as foreign to their primitive types the greater number of the lower derivatives presented to their notice. This fact explains how Cuvier*, notwithstanding his marvellous genius, should so completely have mis- understood certain relations, as to incorporate certain Mollusca and Articulata among the Zoophytes, with- out perceiving the incongruity of such an association. The case is different with the groups which belong to the primordial type of the Invertebrata. For the three great divisions of the Mollusca, Articulata, and Radiata present in each of their classes fundamental differences, and characters which occasionally present considerable opposition to one another. At the head of each of these series we find animals in which the division of labour is carried quite as far perhaps as in the Vertebrata themselves.! In proportion, how- ever, as we deviate from these culminating points, the functions become more circumscribed, or merge * [A sketcli of the Life and Labours of Cuvier is given in the Appendix, Note IX.] f We may cite the Insects as an illustration. To form an adequate idea of the complicated organism of these animals, we need only examine Lyonnet's plates on the Anatomy of the Caterpillar of the Goat Moth (the Cossus Ugniperda), and those by M. Strauss-Durckheim, on the Anatomy of the Cockchafer. It is sufficient to remark that the former of these observers has counted 1647 muscles in the body and 228 in the head of the caterpillar, which would give a total of 1875 distinct muscles serving for the voluntary movements of the caterpillar, whilst in man there are not more than 529. To these 1875 voluntary muscles we must add, according to Lyonnet, 2186 muscles belonging to the digestive apparatus, which will give us a total of 4061 for the entire number of muscles in the body of a caterpillar. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 105 into one another, the mechanism becomes simplified, and the entire organism is degraded, until at length on reachino* the extreme limits we discover a multitude of ambiguous creatures, whose true relations it is extremely difficult to determine. One might almost fancy that nature was proposing to herself apparently insoluble problems for the mere pleasure of sporting with the difficulties which she sometimes surmounts in the most direct manner, while at other times she eludes them by the most unexpected contrivances and the most marvellous combinations. Each type, although remaining fundamentally the same, clothes itself as it were in a thousand different forms, leading the naturalist astray at every step he takes in his encounter with this veritable Proteus. Let him not lose courage, but pursue the god under all his metamorphoses, and sooner or later he will assuredly compel him to reveal his secrets. Then, if, strength- ened by the knowledge of these revelations, he should return to the study of higher animals, he will see the darkness vanish, and a way opened across many of the barriers which he had before regarded as impassable. Let us take by way of illustration one of those principal groups termed by Cuvier embranchements ; for instance, the group of the Articulata. The essen- tial character of this group consists in the tendency of the organism to divide into rings, arranged like strings of beads, each ring presenting an exact repe- tition of the same forms and orsfans as the other rings. In the Articulata all the organs are in pairs, so that a longitudinal section of one of these animals 106 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. exhibits two exactly symmetrical lateral halves of the body. We will now proceed to consider the limits within which these conditions of the ideal type are either modified or fully accomplished. The first glance we take at this group of the Articulata shows that it is separated into two great divisions. In the former, namely, that of true Arti- culata with jointed limbs, the rings instead of forming a string of separate segments are united and soldered together, to form groups of organs. The body of the animal is thus divided into three parts, repre- senting the three great regions of the body in the Mammalia, that is to say, the head, thorax, and abdomen. These three parts of the body, which are always very distinct in insects, may to some extent blend into one another. Thus, in the Myriapods or Millepedes, the thorax and abdomen can no longer be severally distinguished ; whilst in the case of the Arachnidans, which include all the spiders and the scorpions, it is the head which is amalgamated with the thorax. These three classes respire atmospheric air, while Crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, &c.) are essentially aquatic. We refer here only to a very small number of characters, but how different would the case be, if, penetrating into the interior, we could comprehend the whole of these organisms ! We should find that in one case air, that fluid without which no living being can exist, is diffused through- out the entire body by means of an admirable net- work of trachece, or canals, whose structure is almost exactly similar to that of an elastic webbing*, * True TrachecE are only to be met with in Insects, Myriapods, and one section of Arachnidans. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 107 whilst in another case it can only act upon the mass of the blood, which it is to vivify, by the inter- vention of a single organ called a branchia or a lung, according to its external or internal position.* We should find that the blood was either enclosed in vessels f, or diffused over the entire body, bathing every part of the organs which it was destined to nourish.! We should discover wants of every kind giving rise to a multitude of instincts, and necessi- tating a hundred differently varied forms of organic apparatus, whilst each of the classes to which we have already referred, Avould appear to be surrounded by a system of groups, depending upon different types, whose final representatives would merge into one another, on the confines of these little worlds. The Insects, Myriapods, Arachnid ans and Crus- * Some Arachnidans respire by means of sacs enclosing lamellae, -which constitute the respiratory organs. This apparatus, which is commonly designated by the term lungs, differs considerably from the true lung of the Vertebrata. All the Crustacea, on the contrary, including even those which live in the air, as the Oniscus, respire by means of branchise. f We find that Crustaceans, Arachnidans, &c., possess a heart and a distinct vascular system. J In Insects the heart is prolonged into a dorsal vessel, and in most cases the blood on issuing from this organ is immediately diffused in the lacunce, or intercellular spaces. There is sometimes, however, a rudimentary vascular system (Duges, Blanchard), but in all the Articulata, properly so called, there is always a more or less considerable interruption in the vascular circle, so that the blood is finally poured into the lacunae. In the Crustaceans, for example, the arterial apparatus is well developed, bui there are no veins. (See the Memoirs of MM. Audouin and Milne Edwards, of which we have already spoken.) 108 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. taceans constitute the most perfect Articulata. The Worms, which compose the second great division of this group, that of Annelids properly so called, belong to a very inferior type. They also vary still further in their external figure, as well as in their organisa- tion. In describing my sojourn at Chausey, I endeavoured to give an idea of the group of wandering Annelids, those bellicose Amazons, with their roving dispositions and independent mode of life ; but I have not said anything of their sisters, the tubicolous Annelids, those modest recluses, who as soon as they emerge from the egg begin to con- struct for themselves a habitation, from which they never again depart. This habitation, which is lengthened and widened according to the increasing bulk of the proprietor, is a tube, either calcareous or composed of a substance somewhat similar to leather or to wetted parchment. It completely envelopes the Annelid, which ascends and descends in the interior without the necessity of rolling back its body, for its feet are constructed in such a manner that they can move backwards or forwards with equal ease and facility. These animals therefore pass their lives in a position somewhat similar to that of a child in swaddling-clothes. The tube, which is closed at the posterior extremity, exhibits a circular opening in front, which serves as a kind of window through which these hermits are enabled to take a view of the world around them, to seize upon any prey which may happen to pass in their way, and to expose their blood to the vivifying action of the water, which serves them in tlie place of the air THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 109 %vhicli we breathe. Do not therefore accuse them of curiosity or coquetry, because you see them so constantly display their richly ornamented heads. But rather take advantas^e of this habit eno*endered by necessity, and carefully examine these marvellous forms. 'No microscope or lens can aid us here. Do but drop into a basin of sea-water this fragment of rock and this old shell, whose surface is covered with Serpulas, Vermilias, and Cymospires. Observe the prudent caution with which that little round plate rises above each tube, which it is designed to close hermetically so that your eyes cannot penetrate to the interior. This is the shutter of the house ; see, it is moving, the animal will soon show himself. Look, and you will see below that operculum bud- like patches of dark violet or rich carmine in one part, and of a blue or orange tint in another, while still further on appear tufts of every hue. See them expand little by little until they have displayed the whole of their thousand coloured branches, similar in form to a plume of ostrich or marabout feathers. You are a witness of the evolution of veritable flowers, more beautiful by far than the blossoms of our gardens, for these are living flowers. On the least shock, on the slightest shaking of the fluid, these brilliant petals close, and disappearing with the rapidity of lightning, they retire within their stony tubes, whence they may defy their enemies from beneath the shelter of their operculum. Here we have the Chtetopteri, allies of the errant Annelids, which look as if the middle of their bodies had been crushed, while they carry their intestine 110 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. exposed to view within three of their segments ; next come the Echiurida3, whose zoological affinities with this class are merely shown by the external indica- tions afforded by the presence of several exsertile and retractile hooks ; here too we have the Sipuncu- lidas, whose cylindrical bodies exhibit neither mem- bers nor the slightest trace of division into rings * ; the Dujardiniaa, which possess no apparent res- piratory organs, and whose feet, furnished with long silken threads, do not serve the purpose of locomo- tion, animals which move through the water by means of little tufts of vibratile cilia, arranged on each side of the body like the paddles of a steam- boat. To the tubicolous Annelids belong the Chlo- remae, which have green blood, circulating through a body surrounded by velvety hairs, embedded in a sort of transparent jelly, and which can conceal their heads and branchiae in a kind of box, formed of in- tertwined silken threads. Here, too, we find the Amphicoras, animals which are provided with eyes at the extremity of their tails as well as in their heads ; the Terebellas, which, realising the fable of Briareus, extend their hundreds of arms to a distance of nearly a yard in search of the grains of sand and broken shells, with which their temporary abodes arc con- structed ; and, lastly, there are the Sabellce, whose fan-like branchife often measure upwards of a foot in diameter when fully expanded ; besides these there are hundreds of other equally curious species, of * The Echiurus and the Sipunculus were placed by Cuvier amongst the Radiata, by the side of the Holothurise. THE AECHIPELAGO OP BREHAT. Ill which the painter's art alone could convey even a feeble idea. We have hitherto examined only the exterior of our Annelids. Let us now proceed to consider their organisation. Look at this Eunice sanguinea, a magnificent creature of common occurrence at Brehat, where it may sometimes be found measuring more than two feet and a half in length.* You might suppose perhaps that in consequence of its size, very little difficulty would be experienced in making a detailed dissection of this animal. But if you make the attempt you will soon perceive your error. The body is divided into rings, which are not above a line and a half in length, although they measure from eight to ten lines in width. It is no easy task, I can assure you, to seek within this limited space the muscles which move the animal, the intes- tine which receives its food, the vessels which nou- rish it, and the nerves which animate it : while, to add to the difficulty, you will find that all these tissues bear the closest resemblance to each other. But do not be discouraged ; fix your Annelid upon a piece of black wax, cover it with a shallow layer of water, take a simple lens, and provide yourself with a de- licate pair of pincers and cataract needles to serve the purpose of the scalpel. Remove the richly iridescent skin, whose intertwined net-work, as you will * Eunice sanguinea belongs to the group of the errant Annelids. This is the largest species of our coast. I have frequently met with specimens two feet in length, but in the Indian Seas they are often five or six feet long, on which account the Indian species is known as the Eunice gigantea. 112 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. see by the microscope*, imparts to it its brilliant colours, lift up layer after layer, and when the organs are gradually exposed to view, I promise you that all your labours will be more than repaid. You must begin with the nervous system, which is an apparatus of such predominating influence that it has been termed the impersonation of the animal itself. Observe, first, how the brain is situated within the head on the dorsal surface of the body ; from whence it gives off nerves to the eyes and an- tenna, the organs of sight and touch. In the rear it gives origin to a secondary nervous system, which is entirely distributed through the proboscis and oeso- phagus ; in the front another special system supplies the lips, and no doubt communicates to them the pro- perty of taste. On the sides two bands are given off, which form a ring round the buccal cavity and are again joined together on the ventral surface below the digestive apparatus. At this point there is a kind of ladder-like structure, composed of two cords, stretched from f)ne extremity of the body to the other, and connected together in each ring by an oblong mass, called a ganglion. These ganglia are the nervous centres which animate the rings, any one of which may be at once destroyed by the removal or destruction of the ganglion belonging to it. From each of these centres, five nervous trunks are given off on each side, which distribute their branches to the intestine, and to the muscles of the * The brilliant colours of the Eunice and other Annelids are due to a phenomenon of polarization caused by the interlaced arrange- ment of the very delicate fibres of the epidermis. THE AECHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 113 body and of tlie feet. As there are about 300 rings, it follows that this Annelid must have one brain or chief nervous centre, 300 secondary centres, and 3000 nervous trunks, without counting those of the lips and the proboscis. Let us next consider the apparatus destined to accomplish the process of alimentation. At the bottom of this funnel-like mouth, there is a large proboscis furnished with powerful muscles, and armed with eight horny jaws. Take care of your fingers ! these sharp and curved teeth might very easily penetrate through the epidermis, and draw blood. Beyond this tube you will perceive an oesophagus, and furthci on a series of large sacs, each of which corresponds to one of the rings, and is separated from the two contiguous sacs or pouches by a strong constriction. You see that the animal which we are dissecting has not less than 280 stomachs. Between the muscles and the intestines, on the dorsal surface of the body, you will admire those two sinuous vessels, filled with bright red blood. These two large veins receive the blood which has served for the nutrition of the body, and which therefore requires to be subjected to the action of the air. A venous trunk conveys this blood to the branchiae, beginning at the twenty-fifth ring, where you will see that it forms, on either side of the body, a double series of tufts, which are alternately of an amber or scarlet tint, as the blood enters or flows from them. A second vessel passes from the branchiae, and opens into a large artery, placed on the median VOL. I. I 114 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. line, below the intestine. This artery gives off on either side, and in each ring, a large trunk, whose base expands and swells into a sac, which, by its contractions, propels the blood into the branches, which distribute it to all the organs. Passing over numerous details, we will merely observe that our Eunice possesses, independently of the great canals which run from one extremity of the body to the other, 550 branchise, 600 hearts, and a similar number of primary arteries and veins. Now we have need of great patience, as we endeavour to disentangle those interlaced muscular bundles which form the flesh of the rings and give motion to the feet, to their two bundles of sharp and cutting setas, and to the four acicul^ which are as conical and strong as a huntsman's spear. There are no less than thirty distinct muscles in the fleshy part of each ring, whilst each inter-annular par- tition exhibits as many as ten. On either side, two large muscles are attached to the centre of the ring, and the base of the feet, which they move either forward or backward. A sac, composed of about ten muscular bundles, surrounds each tuft of setae, as well as the aciculse, which it serves to extrude ; on either side, eight muscles serve to retract these tufts, and to give motion to the difl'erent parts of the foot. Thus, each ring is supplied by about 120 muscles; and if we take into account those of the proboscis and head, we shall find that the entire animal moves by the action of more than 30,000 muscles.* * 1 have not yet been able to complete my observations on the THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 115 This, truly, is an instance of complicated anatomy. We must observe, however, that we have been exa- mining one of the species which approach most nearly to the ideal type of the Annelid. It furnishes a very high term of comparison in the group, and exhibits a very strongly manifested example of the division of labour. Let us now take the Doyerina, which recalls to me the rocks of Chausey. Al- though it is only a few lines in length, our micro- scope will magnify it to several feet, and we shall readily be able to distinguish its organs when en- larged in the same proportion. Well ! here we have a manifest proof of simplification ; the skin is here converted Into a diaphanous covering, the muscles of the trunk are blended into two or three scarcely distinguishable layers ; those of the inter-annular partitions have vanished, and their place is supplied by a simple membrane ; and those of the feet are nothing more than homogeneous cords composed of contractile substance. The dlo-estlve and nervous centres are nearly the same, but their accessory parts have undergone obvious reductions. Then, moreover, the circulatory organs have been reduced to a single dorsal trunk, while the organs of respi- ration have disappeared. Let us next examine this Aphleblna, which was captured amongst the Coral- linas of Brehat. Here the des-radation is still more anatomy of the Eunice as perfectly as I could have wished ; the numbers therefore which I have given may vary within certain limits, but they may at all events be regarded as approximating very closely to the truth. I 2 116 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. manifest. The body Is a mere sac, in which there lies immersed a nearly straight intestine ; here are no internal partitions and no circulatory organs, the liquid, which represents the blood being moved only by bands of vibratlle cilia, which are placed in a slanting position upon the base of each foot. But if we would observe the extreme limit to which degradation of type may attain in the Articu- lata, we must descend to the class of Worms, properly so-called. Here great size Is often associated with extreme simplicity of organisation ; a circumstance which is nowhere else exhibited in so high a degree, not excepting even the Radiata. The Nemertes Borlasii presents a remarkable instance of this.* Figure to yourself an animal from thirty to forty feet in length, and only five or six lines in width, flat as a riband, of a brown or violet colour, and smooth and shining as varnished leather. Such is the Nemertes, whose anatomy had never before been studied, although the animal had been long known. This gigantic worm lurks under stones and in the hollows of rocks, where it may be met with rolled into a ball and colled into a thousand seemingly in- extricable knots, which it is incessantly loosening and tightening by the contraction of its muscles. This animal is nourished by sucking the Anomla, a kind * The Nemertes constitute a numerous and interesting group ; and I have devoted considerable time and attention to their study. The species referred to in the text is the Borlasia Anglice. Fisher- men state that they have seen these animals more than a hundred feet long. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 117 of small oyster, which attaches itself to various sub- stances under water. When it has exhausted the food around it, or when it wishes to change its posi- tion, it extends its long, dark-coloured, riband-like body, which is terminated by a head, bearing some resemblance to that of a serpent, although it has neither the large mouth nor the formidable teeth of the latter animal. In observing it in motion, the eye is unable to detect any contraction, or any apparent cause by which it is enabled to move, and it is only by the aid of the microscope that we learn that the Nemertes glides through the water by means of ex- cessively fine vibratile cilia, Avhich are protruded from every part of the surface of the body. It pauses, gently moves from side to side, as if endea- vouring to investigate the ground, until it at length succeeds in finding a stone to suit its purpose, lying perhaps some fifteen or twenty feet from its former retreat. It then begins to unwind its coils, in order to arrange itself in its new domicile, and in proportion as one knot is loosened another forms at the op- posite extremity. We may remark that the con- tractility of the tissues of this animal is so great, that a Nemertes thirty feet long scarcely exhibits one tenth of this lens^th after beins: immersed in alcohol, when it will be found to measure no more than two and a half or three feet. All the great apparatus of life is represented in the organisation of the Nemertes, although it is here reduced to its simplest expression. The nervous system does not form that oesophageal ring, which I 3 118 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. has long been regarded as characteristic of the type. Here it is composed simply of two lateral ganglia, from whence proceed two cords, which extend to the extremity of the body, and give off merely very small threads. Two large vessels, placed on either side, accompany these nervous trunks, a third winds along the median line ; all three are simple, without ramifications of any kind. The mouth consists of a circular orifice, which is scarcely visible, and opens into a long tube, separated by a constriction from the intestine, which terminates in a cul-de-sac. Thus the same opening serves for the introduction of the food, and for the rejection of the undigested residua. As if to compensate for the low degree of develop- ment in these organs, the ovaries, which are placed on either side of the body, are of very considerable dimensions. This very circumstance, however, is in itself an indication of the inferiority of the animal. These degraded species are besides exposed to a thousand chances of destruction in the earlier period of their existence; at a more advanced age, they usually serve for the food of higher forms of animals. Hence nature has provided largely for their multi- plication. Many of them literally become trans- formed into ovigerous sacs. Thus, for instance, in the case of a Nemertes, measurins^ from eio^ht to ten feet in length, we cannot estimate the number of ova at less than four or five hundred thousand. It may be readily believed that I devoted myself with no common ardour to these attractive studies, the pursuit of which was almost hourly attended with renewed successes. At Brehat, moreover, I THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 119 was able to study with more steadiness and good-will than I had done at Chausey. I had secured a lodging at the house of the keeper of the artillery stores of the island, and by having some one at hand with whom I could enter into friendly inter- change of thoughts, I escaped from that sense of isolation which is one of the most enervating im- pressions that the heart of man is capable of feeling. I took pleasure in studying in the person of my host that class of subaltern officers who daily render to the state services as obscure as they are laborious, with no prospect before them but that of obtaining a trifling pension, or, in the case of a few amongst them, the cross of the Legion of Honour. Detz was one of this favoured number, and his thirty years' service had certainly thoroughly earned for him the bit of red riband which decorated his button-hole. When I resided with him, his time was divided between the performance of his modest military duties and the cultivation of his garden. It was a real pleasure to me to hear his long stories of the service he had seen, and, like all old soldiers, he w^as always ready to relate his past experience. I often sought relaxation from my labours by pacing up and down his little domain wdth him, while he narrated the events of his campaigns in Germany, and detailed all his sufferings in the English prisons and his adventures at the taking of Algiers, pausing from time to time to show me, with well-founded pride, some fine specimens of his horticultural skill. Sometimes, too, when my body and mind, over- fatigued by too long a walk, or by too protracted at- I 4 120 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. tention to the labours of my anatomical investiga- tions, made me feel the need of complete repose, I would betake myself to the beach, where, stretched full length on the grassy slope of some hill, I gave the rein to my thoughts. If you still preserve any of those illusions which, day by day, are vanishing amid the turmoils of life, if you regret the dreams that have fled never to return, go to the ocean side, and there on its sonorous banks you will assuredly recall some of the golden fancies that shed their radiance over the hours of your youth. If your heart have been struck by any of those poignant griefs which darken a whole life, go to the borders of the sea, seek out some lonely beach, an Archipelago of Chausey, or an Isle of Brehat, beyond reach of the exacting conventionalities of society ; and when your spirit is well-nigh broken with anguish, seek some elevated rock, where your eye may at once scan the heaving ocean and the firmament above ; listen to the grand harmonious voices of the winds and waves, as at one moment they seem to murmur gentle melodies, and at another to swell in the thundering crash of their majesty; mark the capricious undulations of the waves, as far as the bounds of the horizon, where they merge into the fantastic figures of the clouds, and seem to rise before your eyes into the liquid sky above. Give yourself up to the sense of infinitude, which is stealing over your mind, and soon the tears you shed will have lost their bitterness; you will feel ere long that there is nothing in this world which can so thoroughly alleviate the sorrows of the heart as the contemplation of nature, and of the THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 121 sublime spectacle of creation, which leads us back to God. Twilight often surprised me in the midst of my reveries, and often, too, the shades of night fell around me, while I lay stretched beneath the star- bespangled deep azure canopy of heaven. I could then see another star shining in the far distance, which had been lighted by the hand of man. From the position I had chosen I could recognise the beacon towers of Hehaux, of which the seamen of the islands had spoken to me with the liveliest ex- pressions of enthusiasm, and which I had frequently watched by day, as it stood out like a black line drawn along the whitis^h background of the sky. I would not leave Brehat without visiting it. A few slight services had secured me the good-will of the officer of customs, who willingly consented to take me to Hehaux. Accordingly, one splendid day in October, we left the harbour of La Corderie in a pinnace manned by six sturdy seamen. The weather was splendid ; not a cloud obscured the sky, which was reflected on the mirror-like surface of the ocean, whose depths it seemed to double. Impelled by the combined action of a light wind, which swelled our two small square sails, and of the rapid current im- parted to the waters of Kerpont by the force of the tide, our pinnace shot across the waves as a sledge glides over the snow. Sometimes, indeed, we passed through a whirling eddy, which shook every part of our frail craft, and betrayed the vicinity of some submarine rock ; but we soon regained the unruffled sea, and without having taken cognisance of the 122 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. rapid rate at which we were moving, we saw Brehat sink below the distant horizon behind us, whilst rock after rock, and islet after islet, seemed at every moment to emero;e from the waves towards which we were advancing. After havino^ first directed our course towards the north, we passed the island of Saint-Mode to our left, and looked with interest at its batteries, where, almost buried in the grass, lie heavy pieces of cannon, ready to peal forth their hoarse thunders at the first sio^nal of war, and to defend the entrance of the roads of Pontrieux. Here too is the chapel with its holy relics, which, if we may trust the testimony of those wdio live in the vicinity, possess the virtue of ex- pelling from the island every kind of parasitical insect. We passed rapidly between Pen-ar-rest and the plateau of the Sirlots, whose hidden rocks prove a dangerous obstacle to the course of vessels passing from Brest to Pontrieux. Steering towards the north-east, we coasted along Roch Louet and its shelving rocks, which although at a distance of more than two miles from the shore are united Avith it by means of a natural dyke of boulders, called the Sillon, w^iich has been formed by the two opposite currents which ebb and flow twice each day within the basins of Pontrieux and Treguier. Here the tide left us, the wind fell, and our sails flapped loosely against the masts. The sailors now began to pull with vigour, and soon the pinnace resumed its former course beneath the measured strokes of the long oars, leaving a white line of foam behind it. The nearer we drew to Hehaux, the taller THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 123 seemed the beacon tower, which stood forth from the sky with its lofty granite column and glass lantern, protected by that magical rod which is able to attract and safely conduct to earth the destructive force of the thunderbolt. We landed, and at once began our inspection of this colossal rock, which has been upreared by the hand of man on the Epees de Treguier, which, once the dread of the seaman, have become his protecting guides through the storms and darkness of night. The Hehaux lighthouse would be regarded as a most remarkable monument, even in our principal towns, but standing, as it does, alone in the midst of the ocean, it acquires by its very isolation a character of severe grandeur, which impresses the mind most powerfully. Figure to yourself a wall of granite, where the current and the storm do not even permit the hardiest Fucus to take root, with here and there a twisted and deeply wave-worn mass project- ing beyond the rest of the rocky ledge. It is here that the architect has laid the foundation of the tower. The base, which is of a conical form, is surmounted by a circular gallery. The lower portion curves gracefully outwards, spreading over the ground like the root of some colossal marine plant springing up from the foundation stones which have been inserted far within the rock. On this base, Avhich measures about twenty yards across, rises a column, twenty-six feet in diameter, sur- mounted by a second gallery, whose supports and stone balustrades c:dl to mind the portcullis and battlements of some feudal donjon. From the 124 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. summit to the base, this part of the edifice is com- posed of large blocks of whitish granite arranged in regular strata, and carefully dovetailed into one another. As far as a third of the height of the building the rows of stones are bound together by granite joggles, which at the same time penetrate into the two superposed stones. The stones have been cut and arranged with such precision that there has hardly been any necessity for using cement, which has only been employed in filling up a few imperceptible voids, and hence the lighthouse, from the base to the summit, seems to form one solid block, which is more homogeneous and probably more compact than the rocks which support it. The platform which crowns this magnificent column at an elevation of more than 140 feet above high-tide water-mark, is surmounted by a stone cupola, at once solid and graceful, supported by pillars which are separated by large panes of glass. It is within this frame of glass that the beacon is lighted, which may be distinctly seen from every direction at a distance of twenty-seven miles. At low tide the sea leaves a space of several hun- dred square yards uncovered round the base of the edifice ; at high tide it entirely surrounds it. It is then that the tower of Hehaux rises in its solemn isolation from the midst of the waves, as if it were a standard of defiance upraised by the genius of man against the demon of the tempest. At times one might almost fancy that the heavens and the sea, conscious of the outrage offered to them, were leagued together against the enemy which seems to THE AECHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 125 brave them by its impassibility. The north-west wind roars round the towers, darkening its thick glass windows with torrents of rain and drifts of snow and haih These impetuous blasts bear along with them from the far-spread ocean colossal waves, whose crests not unfrequently reach the first gallery, but these fluid masses slide away from the round and polished surfaces of the granite, which leave tliem no points of adhesion, and darting their long lines of foam above the cupola, they break with thundering roar against the rocks of Stallio-Bras, or the boulders of Sillon. The tower supports these terrific assaults without injury, although it bends, as if in homage, before the might of its foes. I was assured by the keepers, that during a violent storm, the oil in the lamps of the highest rooms, presents a variation of level exceeding an inch, which would lead us to assume that the summit of the tower describes an arc of about a yard in extent. This very flexibility seems, however, in itself to be a proof of durability. At all events we meet with similar conditions in several monuments which for ages have braved the inclemency of recurring seasons. The spire of Strasburg Cathedral, in particular, bends its long ogives and slender pinnacles beneath the force of the winds, while the cross on its summit gently oscillates at an elevation of more than 450 feet above the ground. To construct a monument on these rocks, which seemed the very focus of all the storms which raged on that part of our coasts, was like building an edifice in the open sea. Such a project must indeed have 126 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. appeared at first sight to be almost impracticable. After their third season of labour, the workmen com- pleted the foundations of the tower and fixed the key-stone of the cupola. In vain did difficulties of every kind combine with the winds and waves to oppose the work ; human industry has come forth victorious from the struggle, and although a thousand difficulties and dangers beset the labourers, no serious accident to them or their work troubled the joy of their triumph. Only on one occasion was science at fault. In order to facilitate the arrival of the stones, which had to be brought from a distance of several leagues and cut at Brehat, the skilful engineer, who had furnished all the plans and superintended their execution, wished to construct a wooden pier for the disembarkation of the stones at the spot where they were required. Several of the older seamen objected to the plan as impracticable, but M. Reynaud, who was not familiar with the sea, and who, moreover, was proud of having stemmed the current of rapid rivers, trusted to the stability of his massive piles, clamped together with iron and bronze. But he was soon compelled to admit his mistake. The first storm sufficed to scatter over the waters the whole of these ponderous and solid materials, like so many pieces of straw. The learned pupil of our scientific schools could no longer refuse to adopt the advice of the humble workmen of Brehat. A crane was attached to the summit of a rock, to which boats could be moored, and the materials for building were then drawn up to a railway which had been thrown THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BEEHAT. 127 over the precipice that separated this natural landing- place from the site of the tower. Now that we have admired the exterior of the lighthouse, follow me into the interior by the help of these steps which have been formed by the insertion of bars of copper into the stone. Let us pause for a moment to admire the ponderous bronze doors which hermetically seal the entrance, before we plunge into those vaults which look as if they had been cut out of the solid rock. We are in the first story, sur- rounded by stores of wood and ropes and workmen's tools. Above, we perceive cases of zinc, which we are told contain oil to feed the lamps and water for the use of the men employed in the building. In the third story is the kitchen, with its pantry and larder on a level with the first gallery. We need not enter the three apartments appropriated to the use of the men, for, beyond being very simple and clean, there is nothiug to record concerning them. But we have now reached the seventh story, and we must rest for a few moments in this little octagonal saloon, with its bright wainscoted walls and polished floor. It is set apart for the use of the engineers, when they come to inspect the condition of the lighthouse. Here, in the midst of the ocean, at an elevation of more than a hundred feet above the level of the sea, you will find the comfort and almost the elegance of a Parisian apartment. Here are commodious berths, mahogany furniture, and a fire- place ornamented with bronze and surmounted by a marble slab. You will discover in the most trifling arrangements the same intelligent economy that 128 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. presides over the fitting up of our ships, in which the space seems doubled by the judicious use which is made of the smallest corner of available room. Let us now return to the spiral staircase which has brought us thus far, and which will carry us at once to the portion of the edifice which is more particularly destined to fulfil the special purpose for which the tower is designed. The eighth story contains vessels of oil, glasses, revolving lamps, some admirable instruments intended for meteorological observations, a thermometer, barometer, and chrono- meter. Here the spiral staircase terminates in a flattened arch which supports a slender pillar, cut into steps, which are the only means of communica- tion with the watch-tower above, in which the men take it by turns to keep guard every night. You will be surprised on looking round to perceive that the apartment is coated with differently coloured marbles, which line the walls and vaulted roof and even cover the floor. But this luxury, which may appear to you to be so much out of place, has been introduced from necessity. The apparatus for light- ing the building enters the room through a circular aperture in the ceiling, and hence the most extreme cleanliness became necessary, which could alone be obtained by the aid of perfectly polished surfaces. Let us now ascend the tenth and last flight of steps. Here we are beneath the cupola, and look upon one of those magnificent gifts by which science from time to time enriches mankind, as if to refute the discouraging question that is often asked, Cui bono? You see before you the machinery by which THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 129 a fixed light is maintained in a lisilithouse of the first order. I think some explanation will be necessary here to make you understand the destination and effect of the different parts of an instrument, in which, at first sight, you perceive nothing more than a kind of huge glass barrel, whose hoops are repre- sented by prisms of the same substance, and which is furnished, both above and below, with a row of shades or screens, composed of several series of inclined mirrors. The ancients, who were much more addicted to navigation than is usually supposed to have been the case, seem to have recognised from the remotest antiquity the necessity of maintaining signals, which might indicate to the navigator the dangers to be avoided in his course, and the channels by which he might safely steer his small craft, which was adapted only for coasting voyages. From the Black Sea to the Ocean, almost every promontory was sur- mounted by an altar, column, or tower, from whence clouds of smoke issued by day, while its fires guided the seamen during the darkness of night. Almost all these ancient Phari were at the same time temples consecrated to some divinity, whose name they bore. The priests who tended them, were the astronomers of those remote ages, who instructed the seaman how to steer his way along the neighbouring shores. Some antiquarians of our own day have believed that this circumstance furnished an explanation of many mythological fables. Thus in their eyes, the god Proteus, who was consulted by Menelaus on his return from the Trojan war, is only one of these VOL. I. K 130 RAMBLES OP A NATURALIST. beacon heights discovered by the Greek prince when he had wandered from his right course, and at which he received the necessary instructions for finding his way to his native country. According to the same authorities, the solitary eyes of the Cyclops betoken the fires lighted on the promontories of Sicily, while the tradition which records that these giants expired beneath the darts of Apollo, signifies merely that these beacon lights, which were comparatively useless through the day, were extinguished on the rising of the sun. These buildings were frequently of very considerable size ; indeed, the height of the Pliaros erected by Sostratus of Cnidos, on the low coast of Alexandria, about 300 years before the Christian era, very greatly exceeded that of any modern lighthouse. This excessive elevation is, however, quite unne- cessary for the attainment of the object proposed. The diflSculty in making a beacon-light visible from a very remote distance does not consist in obtaining any great degree of altitude, but in giving to the light such an intensity as will enable it to traverse a considerable space without being materially di- minished. It was in this respect that the ancient Phari, which were lighted by ordinary fires, were especially defective, although they may perhaps have been sufficiently powerful to aid the timorous sailors of that age. When men acquired a profounder knowledge of astronomy, and when the invention of the mariner's compass opened all seas to navigation, a number of the old beacons might perhaps be safely dispensed with, although it would, at the same time. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 131 be necessary to augment the intensity and pene- trating power of the light employed. The problem became from that time a more complex one. It was necessary to augment the intensity of the light, and still more necessary to collect and bring horizontally back to the sea the rays which, escaping in all directions, were lost in space, either by falling at the foot of the light-house, or by uselessly diffusing them- selves over the neighbouring land. Many attempts have been made to effect this double object. The substitution, by Argand, of lamps with a double current of air was the first step in advance. An Englishman, named Hutchin- son, towards the close of the eighteenth century, first conceived the idea of placing behind these lamps a metallic mirror, which projected forward a part of the scattered rays. A Frenchman, the Chevalier de Borda, carried this mode of lighting to the highest degree of perfection, by employing as a reflector a parabolic mirror which owes to the particular cur- vature of its walls, the property of transmitting, in the same direction, all the rays emanating from a luminous centre placed in its focus ; and of thus projecting forwards a sort of cylinder, composed of all the rays emitted from this centre.* But this advantage involved in itself a very serious incon- venience, for the cylinder of light presented very * The invention of the parabolic mirror is not the only service that Borda has rendered to navigation. He was the founder of the schools of naval architecture, and he has left several works, amongst others, a Voyage en diverses parties de VEurope et en Amerique. Borda died in 1799. K 2 132 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. nearly the same diameter as the mirror itself. Com- pared with the area of the sea, it was like one simple ray of light, which could only render the light- house visible to a spectator standing in a direct line before it. Borda's invention would therefore have proved of no use if it had not been for a very ingenious idea suggested by a person named Lemoine, who had formerly been Mayor of Calais. His plan consisted in placing Borda's apparatus on a moveable axis, which, by its rotatory movement, presented the mirror to every part of the horizon in succession. The observer, who is placed at a great distance from the lighthouse perceives it only during the time required for the cylinder of reflected light to pass before his eyes, the building at other times seeming to him to be shrouded in complete darkness. This latter circumstance, far from injuring the eifect pro- posed, presents, on the contrary, great advantages. By arranging round one and the same axis a certain number of reflectors, which are all provided with their respective lamps, each revolution of the ma- chine will present as many luminous flashes as there are mirrors, while a certain time will elapse between their successive occurrences, during which the spec- tator is plunged in obscurity. By varying the number and duration of these intervals, one may give a special character of individuality to a certain number of lighthouses, which is in itself a very essential condition, since it is only by this means that vessels arriving from a distance are able to recognise the precise point of the shore in sight, and THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 133 to steer their course with safety. Where the light alternately appears and disappears in the manner we have described, the apparatus for lighting is said to be on the principle of a revolving light. Borda's mode of lighting can, unfortunately, only be applied to lighthouses of this kind ; and is in- applicable for buildings which are illumined by a Jixed light, that is to say, where the light must be visible from every point of the horizon at one and the same time. This method of illumination must, however, necessarily be adopted, since it is impos- sible to vary the lights and obscurations in such a manner as to impart to each lighthouse sufficient indi- viduality of character to distinguish it from all others. Much, therefore, remained to be done. There had existed in France for many years a lighthouse- commission, the members of which, occupied with a hundred other duties, had scarcely done anything towards the solution of this problem, when M. Arago* proposed to undertake a series of experiments, on condition that he might receive as his coadjutors in the work MM. Mathieu and Frestielf, whose ad- * [A short biographical sketch of Arago is given in the Ap- pendix, Note X.] f Fresnel, who was a Member of the Institute, ranks amongst the most illustrious cultivators of physical science. He especially devoted himself to the study of the most delicate phenomena of light. " Among the great observers, who have preceded him," says M. Pouillet, " we can mention no one who has exhibited more inventive power in his experiments, more precision in his measure- ments, or greater depth of thought in his deductions." It is to Fresnel that we are indebted for that solid basis on which the now generally accepted undulatory theory rests, which consists in regarding K 3 134 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. mlrable discoveries on the properties of light had pre-eminently fitted him to grapple with this subject. The disinterested zeal of these three men led to the rapid attainment of numerous valuable results. MM. Arago and Fresnel, by following the plan suggested by Rumford, gave a most unexpected degree of perfection to the lamp with a double current of air. They constructed an apparatus having four concentric wicks, which were supplied with oil by clockwork, and whose illuminating power was so great that a single wick was equivalent to twenty-two of the best Carcel lamps. Fresnel re- placed Borda's mirrors, in which the light is concen- trated by reflection, by lenses which the rays traverse, and which throw them by refraction into the desired direction. The best polished surface absorbs very nearly half the quantity of light which strikes it. The other half alone is reflected, and is therefore the only part that can be made available. In traversino; a o^lass of moderate thickness, the same quantity of light is only diminished" by about one twentieth of its ori- ginal amount. These well-known facts led in Eng- land to the employment of glasses resembling those which are used for ordinary lenses. The adoption of this form rendered it necessary to use glasses of considerable thickness, in consequence of which the light experienced even more diminution in traversing light, not as an emission from luminous bodies, but as produced by the vibration of an universally diffused agent, which we designate under the name of ether. According to this theory, the phenomena of light and of sound closely resemble one another. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 135 these lenses than in the case of the metallic reflectors. This mode of lighting was not therefore attended by any practical results, while even the name of the person with whom the arrangement originated is now forgotten. With the view of overcoming the difficulty to which we have referred, Fresnel conceived the idea of decomposing his lenses into several elements. The central glass was an ordinary lens of small dia- meter and consequently of inconsiderable thickness. He formed the others of prisms, which were ar- ranged round the centre in concentric circles, whose curvatures were so calculated that their focus co- incided with that of the lens itself. It would have been impossible to cut and polish such large glass circles; Fresnel therefore constructed them of separate pieces which he cemented together with isin- glass. Thus was realised one of the conceptions of our illustrious BufFon *, whose genius seems to have comprehended all departments of science. He, too, had conceived the idea of constructing poly zonal lenses, but supposing it necessary that the different parts of the series should all be formed of one piece, he had regarded this plan as impracticable. The merit of the invention, belongs therefore, exclusively to Fresnelf, who was ignorant of Buffon's suggested plan till he had himself realised his own theoretical conceptions. * [A notice of the life and works of Buffon is given in the Appendix, Note XL] f [M. de Quatrefages is probably not aware that Sir David Brewster described a method of constructing large lenses of several pieces in 1812, ten years before the publication of Fresnel's cele- brated memoir,] K 4 136 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. The following numbers will at once show the superiority possessed by the new mode of lighting when compared with that yielded by Borda's mirrors. A polyzonal lens having a diameter of thirty inches, and illumined by a single lamp with four wicks, transmits the rays to a distance of thirty-six miles ; it projects eight times more light towards the horizon than the best reflector, and the effect which it pro- duces in the direction of its axis is equal to that which would be emitted from 4000 combined jets of gas. The lenses which we have described are alone applicable to lighthouses having revolving lights, and in this respect they resemble parabolic mirrors ; but a great advantage of the new system is that it may be equally well used for fixed lights. To adapt it to the latter mode of illumination, all that has to be done is to metamorphose the lens into a ring dilated in the middle, and to arrange above and below it a sufficient number of prisms analogous to those of which we have already spoken. In this manner the light is thrown simultaneously to all points of the horizon, only, instead of being united into a cylinder, it forms a kind of horizontal sheet. It will therefore be readily understood that light- houses with fixed lights cannot present the same area of illumination as those which are provided with revolving lights. In both cases the lamp is sur- rounded by a ring of glass of the same height, which receives nearly the same quantity of light in either case. But while in a revolving light the entire THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 137 illuminating power is concentrated by lenses in either eight or sixteen directions only, in a fixed light it spreads over all points of the circle, dimi- nishing in intensity in proportion to the greater extent of surface over which it is diffused. A lamp which is placed in the centre of a fixed or moveable apparatus emits its rays in all directions, and consequently a large number pass above and below the lenses. To avoid this loss, Fresnel pro- posed to re-collect these rays upon reflecting prisms, which have the property of destroying only a small quantity of the light which traverses them. This idea was actually applied to lighthouses of small dimensions, but it had hitherto been regarded as im- possible to construct curved prisms of a size suitable for buildings on a large scale. These prisms were replaced by a system of concave mirrors covered with tinfoil, and arranged in horizontal zones above and beloAV the apparatus. Now we have already seen that half the light is destroyed by this mode of reflection ; hence it was most desirable that the prismatic rings should be formed on a large scale. The problem which had hitherto been regarded as insoluble was successfully solved by a Parisian artisan, M. Fran9ois who, in 1844, presented to the Academy of Sciences one of the eight staves, which when combined form the reflecting cupola, as ex- emplified in the lighthouse of Skerryvore in Scot- land, the construction of which is in exact accord- ance with Fresnel's plans. The importance of this improvement will be best understood when we con- sider that the light reflected by the tinned mirrors is 138 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. equal to that of 133 combined jets of gas, whilst the light transmitted by M. Fran9ois' cupola is equal to that of 214 jets, which would give an augmen- tation of 81 jets of gas for the available light. MM. Arago and Fresnel commenced their obser- vations in 1819 ; four years later the lamp with con- centric wicks was invented, the polyzonal lenses were tested, and the new mode of lighting tried in the Corduan lighthouse at the mouth of the Gironde, where, a century before, the first trial was made of illuminating by revolving lights and by parabolic mirrors. The result fully realised all the hopes that had been entertained of this method, and in 1825, in consequence of a remarkable report drawn up by Vice- Admiral de Rossel, one general plan was adopted for the lighting of the coasts of France. Twenty-seven lighthouses of the first order were distributed along a coast-line of about 1200 miles. These edifices stand forth like so many advanced guards to signalise to the sailor, returning from the open sea, the name of the shore he is approaching. With this view these buildings have been so arranged that a tower with a fixed light invariably intervenes between two towers carrying revolving lights, diff'ering most distinctly from one another. Five lighthouses of the second order and seventeen of the third, together with thirty-five port- lights intervene between every two first-class light- houses, to point out the dangers which are always mul- tiplied in i)roportion to the increasing vicinity of land, and to indicate the safe channels. Everywhere reflect- ing mirrors are being replaced by this system of lenses. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF BREHAT. 139 Other nations are following the example of France. As they formerly copied the revolving apparatus invented by Lemoine and the reflectors suggested by Borda, they now borrow Fresnel's lenses and the lamp devised by Fresnel and Arago, whilst they resort to Paris for nearly all the apparatus employed in lio'htino^ their own coast-lines. We have therefore some right to declare with just pride, that it is to France that mankind owes all the essential progress which has been made in reference to a question so vastly important to the security of navigation, and consequently so intimately associated with the in- terests of commerce and humanity. After having carefully examined and admired every portion of the magnificent lighthouse of Hehaux I returned to my daily avocations at Brehat. But the bad weather was setting in ; I often came home from my excursions wet through and shivering with cold, so that I felt it was time to think of taking my departure. My good friend the custom-house officer once more lent me his pinnace, and I left Brehat enriched with numerous drawings, notes, and collec- tions of animals, many of which were carefully preserved in spirits.* My passage was alike rapid and agreeable, and with scarcely a stoppage I returned to Saint Brieuc by the same road which I had pur- sued three months before. The country was still looking beautiful, although the decline of the year * All the objects which I collected in this and the following expeditions have been deposited in the Museum, and now form a portion of the collection connected with the chair held by M. Valenciennes. 140 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. had shed a certain tone of quiet melancholy over the face of the landscape. The thousand varied tints of autumn had replaced the bright, but uniform verdure of spring ; the oaks were scattering their dried and yellow leaves before the wind, and the birds had departed with the flowers of summer. Scarce a blossom remained but the golden rods of the broom, which, interspersed among the purple tufts of the heather, gave to the distant hills a rich tinge of ochre which was rendered still brighter beneath the rays of the setting sun. 141 CHAP. III. THE COASTS OF SICILY. THE GROTTO OF SAN-CIRO. — TOKRE DELL' ISOLA. Departure for Naples -with MM. Milne Edwards and Blanchard. — Arrival in Sicily ; aspect of the Bay of Palermo. — Excursions to the grotto of San- Giro. — Osseous caverns ; osseous breccias. — Installation on board the Santa Rosalie. — Departure from Palermo. — The grottoes of Mont Pellegrino. — The Blatta orientalis. — Arrival at Torre dell' Isola.— The Padre Antonino. — ■ Structure of the coast. — Our sailors. — Explorations. — Trans- parence of the water in the bay. — Principal species belonging to the littoral districts. — Causeways built by the Vermetus. — Occupations ; mode of life. — Departure for Castellamare. A SCIENTIFIC commission, consisting of M. Milne Edwards, M. Blanchard, and myself, was appointed, in the Autumn of 1843, to visit the coasts of Sicily by the Minister for Public Instruction, the Jardin des Plantes, and the Academy of Sciences.* In ac- cordance with our plan of travelling together, we all left Paris on the 20th of March, 1844, and on the 28th of the same month we reached Naples. In eight days we had traversed the whole of France ; we had taken a glance at Lyons and Marseilles, * [A sketch of the history and constitution of the Jardin des Plantes, and of the Academy of Sciences is given in the Appendix, Note XIL] 142 EAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. slept at Genoa, and visited its palaces ; anchored at Livorna; admired the baptistery, and the leaning tower of the Campo Santo at Pisa; and yawned with ennui within the narrow precincts of Civita- Vecchia, until at length we beheld the sun emerging from behind Castellamare, striking the profile of Vesuvius, gilding Pausilippus and Cape Miseno, empurpling the waters of the bay, and flashing from the white houses of that city, of which, it has been said, nothing is left to those who have seen it but to die. But Naples, notwithstanding its many seductions, was unable lons^ to detain us. We were all anxious to reach Sicily, and as soon as we were enabled, by the friendly aid of our ambassador, M. de Montebello, to obtain the papers which it was indispensably necessary for us to procure, we embarked in the Palermo^ the first of a new line of steam packets which has now established a regular communi- cation between the island and the continent. The passage, which was even then so tedious and un- certain, is now effected in eighteen, or at most twenty hours. We left Naples at four o'clock, and before long we had passed Capri, which rose to our left, with its rugged rocks — the silent witnesses of the crimes of Tiberius and of the darino; valour of our soldiers. We watched the setting sun, as it gilded with its last rays the serrated peaks of the Calabrian shores, until its fires were extinguished in the limpid waters of the bay, giving place to one of those nights of the south, when all thini^s around are bathed in transparent shadows, which throw a veil of beauty THE COASTS OF SICILY. 143 over sky and earth unknown in northern latitudes. When we came on deck at break of day, the last of the Calabrian heights was disappearing on the horizon, whilst before us Sicily was growing more and more distinct, as it gradually rose to view from the blue waters of the sea. Before noon we had doubled Cape di Gallo, and were gazing with ad- miration on that lovely valley so justly termed the Conca d'' Oro. It cannot be denied that the Bay of Xaples presents a strikingly beautiful appearance, as it breaks upon the sight of the traveller entering it from the open sea. For myself, however, I must admit that I prefer the aspect of the Bay of Palermo. At Naples the landscape is deficient in harmony. As the spec- tator looks towards the steep incline on which the city is built, he finds nothing on which his eyes can rest between the sky and the water's edge but the crowded buildino;s of Monte-Falcone and the bastions of Saint Elmo. The low shore of Portici, covered with its white villas, seems nothing more than a pro- longed suburb, stretching as far as Castellamare. There is no intermediate object to attract the eye before it rests upon the gracefully rounded outline of this shore ; beyond it there is no distant back- ground. Man predominates too much in this land- scape, in which nature is only seen in the isolated mass and smoking cone of Vesuvius. This magni- ficent object, rising detached from the midst of the picture, produces by its very isolation a more striking effect ; devoid of harmony with all around, it stands forth like some ever present impending evil, throwing 144 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. a tinge of gloom over the brightest features of the scene. At Palermo we have nothing of this kind. Every- where around discordant contrasts are brought into harmony with the general character of the landscape. Man and nature meet here, not as antagonists, but simply as rivals : and both everywhere present, have combined to produce a scene which seems to have been planned by some artist of consummate skill. From the deck of our steamer we could trace the bay as it penetrated inland, following a slightly easterly direction, and bounded on either side by verdant banks exposed to the cool north-east breeze, and sheltered from the force of the rous^h sea winds. At the extremity of this gulf, between the leafy heights of Olivezza and La Flora, rose Palermo with its crowded shipping, and those rounded domes, and slender spires, which give it something of the cha- racter of an eastern city. The sombre masses of green in the more distant parts of the landscape, indicated the site of groves of orange *, lemon, and carob trees which terminate the * The Orange and the Citron are two different species of the genus Citrus, which also include the Lemon (C. Umonvm), the Seville Orange (C vulgaris), &c. These two trees which in the present day are so widely distributed over the southern parts of Europe are natives of Asia, and it may not be unwelcome to our readers if we extract from M. Duchartre a few historical details in reference to their acclimatation. The Citron-tree ( C. medica) grows spontaneously in Media, from whence it was no doubt originally introduced into Persia. It is difficult to determine the period of its introduction into Europe. Theophrastus, Virgil, and Pliny mention the tree, and the last of THE COASTS OF SICILY. 145 Conca d'Oro.* Glancing upward along the mountain slopes, which were beginning to exhibit the first ap- pearance of spring vegetation, we descried Morreale f these informs us that its fruit was brought from Persia to Rome, where it was employed as a medicine, and more especially as an antidote against poison. Attempts seem to have been made at that time, but unsuccessfully, to acclimatize it in Italy, and it was not till two centuries later that it was introduced into Sicily and Naples. In the tenth century it had extended over the whole of Liguria. Towards the twelfth century it, reached Menton and Hyeres, but it was not until the fifteenth century that the Citron-tree reached the colder countries of Europe. The Orange-tree ( C. aurantium) did not reach Europe till long after the Citron. It seems to have originated in India beyond the Ganges, and it did not reach Malta till towards the end of the tenth century. During the Crusades in the thirteenth century it was carried into Italy, from which it spread as far as Hyeres. Before this time, however, the Arabs had introduced it into Spain. In 1336, the Dauphin Humbert bought at Nice twenty Orange plants, which he carried into Dauphine. At the beginning of the sixteenth century there was only a single tree of this kind in the north of France. It had been planted at Pampeluna in 1412, and bought by the Constable de Bourbon ; it was however confiscated with all other property belonging to the Constable in 1523, and transported to Fontaine- bleau. This tree which is consequently, now in 1854, 442 years old. may still be seen at the orangery of Versailles, where it is shown to visitors under the name of Francois I., the Grand Connetahle, or the Grand Bourbon. * The Carob (Ceratonia siliqua) is a fine tree, growing to a medium height. The fruit is a large flattened pod, enclosing a sweet and pleasantly flavoured pulp. In the south of Europe, and more especially in the East, where the Cai'ob grows spontaneously, this pulp is used for preserves, essences, &c., while a species of syrup is extracted from it in Egypt, in which difi"erent kinds of fruit are preserved. f Montreal or Morreale is a town containing about 7000 or 8000 inhabitants, and has been gradually formed around the cathedral. This edifice, which was founded in 1174, by William the Good, is VOL. I. L 146 Kx\MBLES or A NATURALIST. Avitli its ancient cathedral, founded by the early Norman kings ; while high above, in the distant background, rose the magnificent mountain range? which encircles this rich landscape as in a frame^ stretching for many miles into the interior of the island. Rising In six distinct slopes, these mountain chains exhibit, at an altitude of more than 4000 feet above the sea, their rugged sides and sharply defined peaks, still covered, when we first saw them, with the winter's snow. Sloping downward in a semicircle, as if to embrace and defend the open valley at their base, these Alpine ranges project on either side, at ten miles' distance from one another, far into the sea, terminating on the left in Cape Zafarano, which protects with its compact masses the palaces of Bagaria, and on the right in the Capo di Gallo, whose bright limestone summit glittered in the light more than 1800 feet above our heads, while adjoining it rises Mount Pellegrino among whose precipices winds the steep road leading to Saint Rosalia's cave. * Sheltered by these colossal situated upon a projecting spur of the mountain, overlooking a magnificent valley, and is one of the most beautiful and curious architectural monuments of Sicily. Its bronze gates, covered with bas-reliefs, are justly celebrated. The interior is almost entirely lined with mosaics, while the pavement is formed of porphyries, and many-coloured marbles. The church contains several mauso- leums, amongst others those of William the Good, and of his father William the Bad, and here also is preserved the heart of St. Louis. The convent of the Benedictines, which is annexed to the church, possesses the best painting by Pietro Novelli, the Raphael of Sicily. It represents St. Benedict, the founder of the Order, distributing bread to his disciples. * This holy patroness of Sicily, for whom every good Sicilian THE COASTS OF SICILY. 147 bulwarks, the surface of the bay, which was scarcely ruffled, reflected as in a mirror this glorious spectacle, professes the most profound devotion, lived, according to the legend, in the twelfth century, and died on the 4th of September, 1160. The family traced their origin to Charlemagne, and her father, Sinibald, was lord of Mont Quisquina and Delle Rose. At the age of fifteen, Rosalia escaped from the house of her parents and concealed herself in a dark cavern on Mont Quisquina, where she continued to live for a long time alone and unknown. Urged by unknown motives she abandoned her first retreat, and retired to Mont Pellegrino, taking up her abode in a grotto, where the absence of light and constant humidity maintained a perpetual winter. It was here that she died, and here her bones were found, in 1625, in consequence of information given by the saint herself, who appeared to several persons. These relics are still preserved in the Cathedral of Palermo. The fete of Saint Rosalia, which is celebrated in the month of September, is kept as a national holiday throughout the entire country. The preparations begin many months in advance, and at Palermo the festival lasts for a whole week, each day having its special ceremonies and diversions. This festival has been too often described to require that T should enter into any details concerning it, but yet I cannot abstain from alluding to the magnificent spectacle presented in the interior of the cathedral during the general illuminations. The entire body of the church, the walls, pillars and vaulted roof are thrown into a perfect blaze of light by thousands of small wax tapers, suspended by threads, which are so fine as to be quite invisible from a short distance. This mode of arranging the lights produces the effect of innumerable stars bx'oad- cast over every portion of the edifice. The fireworks, moreover, deserve special notice, for I have never seen any in Paris which could be compared to them. Our rockets may indeed be better directed, and our fireballs may rise higher, but the profusion and the disorder in which the former are employed at Palermo during an illumination produce a most striking effect ; in watching them you might almost suppose that you were following the movements of living beings urged by some capricious impulse to meet, chase, and encounter one another in all directions. The fireballs as they burst fall in a gold or silver shower upon the surface of the sea, L 2 148 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. displaying before us the image of Palermo la felice, which seemed slumbering in a balmy atmosphere amid the gentle murmurs of the waves, as they flowed softly back from its shores. How painful, when the thoughts are elevated by the contemplation of scenery at once sublime and beautiful, to be abruptly recalled to earth by some importunate and trivial consideration. Almost before our vessel had reached the harbour it was literally stormed by a crowd of seamen closely akin to the native lazzaroni, and in an instant Ave were plunged into all the miseries of landing, which in our case were of more serious moment than they might have been to travellers in general, as our trunks and boxes were filled with instruments, bottles, and glass vessels of different kinds ; no wonder then, that we dreaded the prospect of encountering the delays, risks, and difficulties appertaining to a search by custom-house officers. Fortunately for us our own apprehensions were the only evils we experienced on where their brightness is gradually extinguished amid the gentle undulations of the waves. Besides these we saw some fireworks which were perfectly unique of their kind. Some of these appeared like large banana trees, blazing from the base to the summit in a rich deep green fire, which is probably produced by means of alcohol and a salt of copper. The crowning piece of this pyro- technical exhibition was a representation of a castle in a state of siege, which was being bombarded and burnt in the midst of a thunderstorm, and the combined effects of the thunder, fireballs and the conflagration were most admirably given. The castle, moreover, was 200 feet in length, and of a proportional height, while the line of fireworks directed against it measured more than 500 feet in length, and was arranged in several successive rows. THE COASTS OF SICILY. 149 this occasion. The Duke of Serra di Falco *, the director general of this department, having been ap- prised of our arrival had given orders that we should be exempted from all investigation, and thus, to the great surprise of the sailors who transported our baggage, we were permitted to proceed without any delay to the Hotel de France. Without loss of time we set forth to explore the city, for in our uncertainty in reference to our future destination we were unwilling to leave Palermo without having examined the principal objects of interest which it contains. Under the guidance of able ciceroni, whose hospitable zeal was unwearied, we visited those ancient buildings which once were used as mosques, and where verses of the Koran may still be read upon the pillars and walls which have now for so many years past been consecrated to Christian worship. It was with feelings of intense astonishment that we traversed palaces, churches, and cloisters carved and encrusted like buhl cabinets, where the most precious marbles, enamels, malachite, and lapis-lazuli were blended and grouped together in a thousand different devices, rising in one place in columns chiseled by the hands of Greek or Arab workmen, clothing elsewhere the walls and ceiling with the most delicately coloured tracery, or forming deeply fluted masses, which hang suspended like softly tinted drapery fresh from the * The Duke of Serra di Falco, Corresponding Member of the Institute, is the author of a large work entitled, Le antichita del/a Sicilia, and of several other works treating of the history of his native country. L 3 150 KAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. loom of the skilful weaver, everywhere exhibiting the most fantastic lines and the most brilliant arabesques, the whole combining to produce an effect of incon- ceivable richness, which certainly in some respects merited the judgment passed upon it by the severe and classic taste of our guides. " C'est le delire de I'art," exclaimed the archaeologist Don Antonio Gallo, a sentiment which the Canon Piccolo endorsed by a meaning and contemptuous smile. Perhaps they were right ; be that as it may, we protested against the severity of their criticism. After duly appreciating the imposing character which appertains to the nude simplicity of the high and sombre aisles of our northern cathedrals, one may well be per- mitted to regard with admiration those chiese, in which the glorious light of a southern sun heightens the splendour of the profusely magnificent ornaments, and seems to aid the labour of the artist by clothing the exterior of the edifice in' inimitable tints of red and golden amber. Everything around Palermo thoroughly accorded with the character of novelty which had so power- fully impressed us on first examining the exterior of its monuments. In the Conca d'Oro the vegeta- tion, which is entirely southern and almost African in its character, exhibits the most marvellous activity. Rendered fruitful by the heat and by the abundant supply of water, which has been artificially conveyed from inexhaustible sources and distributed throujrh innumerable aqueducts, the land scarcely lies fallow one month in the twelve. Hence those of our northern trees which we saw intermixed amonor the THE COASTS OF SICILY. 151 date and carob trees of the gardens of Olivezza or La Flora were of gigantic dimensions. On this prolific soil the olive grows to be a high and leafy tree, while the cypress is as tall as our poplars. The public walks are planted with citron and orange trees : these trees too. form a forest extending from three to four miles, between Palermo and Morreale, and risino- alonn^ the first declivities of Mont Cucchio and Mont Griffone, only cease where vegetable mould has almost wholly disappeared, giving place to the cactus and aloe, which in these climates may be said to represent our brushwood and brambles. One of our first excursions in the environs of the town was to visit the Grotto of San-Ciro, which enjoys a certain amount of" reputation in the scientific world, in consequence of having furnished palaeon- tologists with some curious fossil bones. We left Palermo by the Termini Gate, and following a road which ran in the midst of rich gardens we passed the Constable's Bridge, whose foundation is referred to the reign of the sons of Tancred, and soon found ourselves skirting the mountains which con- stitute the eastern limits of the Conca d'Oro. While we were pausing at the foot of Mont Griffone, Prince Gragnatelli, one of the most distinguished chiefs of the Sicilian opposition, who had served as our guide in this short expedition, drew our atten- tion to a vast and ponderous square building standing in the midst of the plain. The windows were narrow, like mere loopholes, and the doors low and arched, and if it had not been for the thickness of the walls, the building might have been taken for a L 4 152 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. large farm-house in ruins. Yet this edifice, which the humblest citizen of our own day would have despised as a country house, was, nevertheless, the favourite sojourn of the Norman kings, who repaired to it to recruit from the fatis^ues of war. It still bears its original significant name of Delizie. A very cursory examination of this building shows that if the rude warriors who inhabited it knew how to secure the aid of the fine arts to do honour to a religion whose indulgence they were often obliged to invoke, they gave themselves very little trouble about decoration when their personal comforts alone were concerned. Facing this ancient palace is a low opening in the side of the mountain, supported by a double arch, which forms the entrance into a grotto enclosing a large basin, from whence there flows a brook of fresh water. This limpid stream, which fertilises all the adjoining district, is named, in accordance with a genuine Sicilian hyperbole, the Mare dolce. This grotto was formerly enclosed in the limits of the palace grounds, and no doubt served as a bathing hall for the valiant conquerors of Sicily. We were obliged to leave our carriage soon after we had passed this fresh-water sea, and to climb the mound of debris which is deposited at the base of Mont Griffon e. An enclosed path led us between fields of cactus to the entrance of the grotto of San- Ciro, an irregular excavation, forty or fifty feet in depth, and from twenty to thirty feet in height, whose naked walls still show traces of the tools employed by the workmen who first excavated it. THE COASTS OF SICILY. 153 There is nothiiio: in this cavern meritino; the atten- tion of the ordinary tourist, but it possessed a decided interest in our eyes, since it presented a fine example of an ossemis cavern or rather breccia, showing us at a glance how some of those osseous deposits have been formed in which modern science has succeeded in reading the history of a world unseen by human eye. It is well known what importance has been assigned to fossil remains since Cuvier first opened to geologists a new path of inquiry, and established the science of paljBontology. These remains of an extinct fauna are r-^nerally distributed through the interior of different strata ; but in some localities we find them collected in masses. It had already long been known that the caverns of the Hartz mountains and of Franconia contained masses of fossil bones ; but it was shown by Dr. Buckland, one of the most celebrated jxeoloofists of England, that these countries were by no means peculiar in this respect. By break- ing up the calcareous crust, which forms the lower surface of many of the caverns, and removing the pebbles and sand, which were concealed below the stalagmites*, he laid bare palaeontological treasures * The name of Stalactites has been given to those calcareous (deposits shaped like elongated cones, which are often attached to the roofs of caverns, whilst the deposits of the same nature which cover the soil are known by the name of stalagmites. Both these deposits are formed by the water which filters from the rock, and which dissolves a certain quantity of calcareous salts, which it leaves as it flows off drop by drop, and evaporates on coming in contact with the air. Every stalactite must therefore have its cor- responding stalagmite, but while the former increases inccessantly from above doAvnwards, the latter increases from below upwards, 154 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. whose existence had never before been suspected. He found that the mud, forming the lowest stratum, and which is almost always black and fetid, was often interspersed with numerous skeletons of bears, hyenas, and sometimes even of dogs, wolves, and jaguars, belonging to species of much larger size than their existino; congeners. The bones of Ruminants and Rodents, and often too, those of Birds and large Pachyderms were blended with the bones of these carnivorous forms, and we can still trace the marks on their surfaces of the terrible teeth by which they were broken. These circumstances led Dr. Buckland to the conclusion that caverns of this kind had probably been used as places of resort both by the carnivorous animals, whose remains have been preserved in them, and by the victims which once served to appease their hunger. This very plausible explanation was generally received, and did not for a long time meet with any decided contradiction. Science, however, speedily recorded other facts, which could not be made to harmonise with the theory of the English geologist. It was discovered that rocks of compact limestone, whose mass presented no trace of fossils, w^ere yet traversed by veins which were entirely filled with bones, impacted in a matrix differing entirely from the rock itself. These veins very frequently presented no appearance of any lateral aperture, while the debris contained within them in some instances completely filled and on meeting they become joined together. It is this mode of deposition which gives rise to those beautiful colonnades which are found in certain grottoes. THE COASTS OF SICILY. 155 them up. They could not, therefore, possibly have served as a retreat for the animals whose remains they contained. The bones, moreover, which were found under these conditions, exhibited, almost always, traces of having been fractured, while they frequently also were polished as if by continued fric- tion. In order to explain these different circum- stances, it was conjectured that such veins were ancient fissures which had become filled up with skeletons, which were washed into them from the surrounding soil by currents of water. This theory, which was specially maintained by several French geologists, received a most striking confirmation in the year 1842. MM. Constant Prevost* and Desnoyers discovered in the environs of Paris, but more especially at Montmorency and Fontainebleau, a large number of ancient fissures, similar to those which are of such frequent occurrence on the shores of the Mediterranean, where some of them are still in the act of formation. In the former they met with the characteristic remains of palaeonto- logical faunas, while in the latter they found only the remains of existing animals, and they w^ere able to * M. Constant Prevost, who is a Member of the Institute, and Professor of the Faculty of Sciences at Paris, is more especially known for the extreme perseverance with which he has always opposed the ideas that have been admitted by most modern geologists regarding the cataclysms to which our globe owes its present configuration. In the opinion of M. Constant Prevost the phenomena which are daily being enacted before our eyes, and the forces which we see in action, suffice to explain all the facts of geology, and to account for all the modifications which have been experienced by the crust of our planet. 156 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. convince thmselves that the latter are daily being augmented in proportion as new deposits are accu- mulated by the action of currents of water. These observations which complete, without controverting, the researches of Dr. Buckland, have led to the dis- tinction which is now made between osseous caverns and osseous breccias, of which we have just spoken. We must class amon2:st the latter the sfrotto of San-Ciro. Before it was dismantled it presented the appearance of a slope of about twenty feet in height, abutting against the side of the mountain, and composed almost entirely of bones agglutinated by calcareous infiltrations or cemented by a small quantity of quartzose sand and indurated clay. It seemed as if the entrance of the cavern had been closed in and the interior almost entirely filled up by a rock of a particular composition. There were the remains of elephants, hippopotami, deer, stags, and several kinds of doo;s intermingled with sea shells. This latter circumstance, added to the traces of perforations in the walls of the cavern, which may be attributed to certain marine molluscs, led Dr. Christie to conjecture that this fissure must have been formed below the waters of the ocean, and that it must have been subsequently upheaved by some of those convulsions of nature of which Sicily every- where affords undoubted evidence. Whatever the true explanation of its occurrence may be, the mass of organic remains accumulated in this spot was at all events so considerable that it awakened the speculative genius of certain English travellers. The cavern of San-Ciro was converted into THE COASTS OF SICILY. 157 a regular source of export, and the fossils were shipped to London where they were converted into animal Mack! At the time of our visit the devastation was complete,' and we had some difficulty in detaching from the vaulted roof a few broken fragments which appeared to us to have belonged to an elephant. In the mean time we did not lose sight of the principal object of our mission. M. Blanchard, whose duty it was to collect Insects to complete the collections of the Museum, had already ex[)lored the environs of Palermo and the Conca d'Oro. M. Milne Edwards and myself had, in the meanwhile, been equally busy in examining the neighbouring sea shore, breaking up the rocks by the water's edge, and turning over the stones on our path. All that we had hitherto seen of the marine tribes of animals redoubled our anxiety to begin our work in earnest. We tried as far as lay in our power to hasten the preparations for our departure, but it was no trifling business to complete our equipment. We desired to explore the coast line of Sicily step by step, as it were, with entire liberty to arrange and alter our plans as we might deem desirable ; we Avished to be able to pass rapidly along any sandy shore which we knew would present nothing of interest, and again to stop wherever weed-covered rocks announced that our researches would probably be attended with success. To do this, it was indispensable that we should be so amply supplied with the necessaries of life that we need not diverge from our course in search of provisions. It would have been impossible to effect a journey by land with an independence of 158 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. this kind ; it was only by sea that we could fully carry out our plans, and we resolved to circum- na\ngate the island in a boat of our own. There were, how^ever, many difficulties in the w^ay. We carried with us, amongst other apparatus, a double forcing-pump, intended to aid in the submarine explorations which ]\I. Milne Edwards purposed conducting. This pump could not be properly worked without being securely fixed with sufficient space around it to move a balance beam resemblins: those used in fire eno;ines. The common fishing boats of the country were too small and fragile for this purpose, Avhile a speronare w^as, on the other hand, too large to suit our views, as it would have been unable to enter shallow bays, or to follow all the irregularities of the rocky coasts ; and, lastly, it was indispensably necessary that we should procure the services of sailors who could speak Italian, for the Sicilian idiom, which is an incoherent mixture of all the various tongues spoken by the numerous powers who have in turn ruled Sicily, w^as wholly unintelligible to us. After many fruitless visits to the harbour, w^e at length discovered the kind of boat we wanted. It was thirty feet long and six feet across, and carried fore and aft a sort of false deck about a yard square. Along either side there ran a board about a foot across, to which the seats of the rowers were secured. This boat had made several trials of her speed and strength in the passage from Naples to Palermo. Finally, her name possessed a certain local charm, which was quite irresistible, for she bore the graceftd THE COASTS OF SICILY. 159 appellation of La Santa Rosalia. Being intended for fishing operations on a large scale, she had a crew of seven men, five of whom certainly seemed active and strong fellows, and of these, two spoke Italian after a certain fashion of their own. M. Milne Edwards, who was the natural leader of our expedition, lost no time in entering into treaty with the master ; and, by the useful intervention of our friend M. Pierrugues, whose obliging and active zeal in our service was indefatigable, a bargain was soon struck. For the sum of thirty-six tari or sixteen francs a day, the Santa Rosalia and her crew were placed at our entire disposal. Without further delay we began the stowage of our vessel. Our packing cases, which were installed under the hindmost oarsman's seat, established a separation, rather moral than real, between the portion of the boat which was set apart for the men and our special quarters in the stern. We were enabled, by means of moveable stancheons, to spread an awning across our domain by way of shelter against the sun or rain. A few shelves, nailed against the sides and protected by the upper board- ing, served as the depository of our boxes, glass bottles, tubes, and instruments. The bunker below the helmsman's bench was made to contain the three cushions, which we dignified with the name of mat- tresses, together with the large sailors' capes which were intended to take the place of sheets and blan- kets. Our pump, which was securely fixed in the bows, contributed not a little towards the peculiar aspect presented by our vessel, which excited the 160 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. strangest commentaries among the numerous groups of lazzaroni, which were watching these incompre- hensible preparations. As soon as our arrangements were completed, we said a last farewell to the newly found friends, who by their kind attentions had made our stay at Palermo appear so short, and hastened to take our places in the boat w^hich, at the captain's command of Voga I glided rapidly through the water that broke into foam beneath the strokes of our six oarsmen. The captain, wdio sat crouched upon our miniature quarter-deck, which was exclusively devoted to him, guided the helm and directed our course. We soon passed the entrance of the harbour, which is protected by the Castello di Molo, and, turnino^ the boat's head to the left, we advanced towards the west. Our voyage commenced under favourable auspices. The sky was clear, the sea calm, and our boat coasted along one of the most enchantingly picturesque parts of these lovely shores. Above us, conspicuous in its wild grandeur, rose Mont Pellegrino, whose per- pendicular sides descend abruptly to the very water's edge. Half way up its inclined slope, the Villa Belmonte proudly displays the somewhat fan- tastic graces of its castellated gateways, its pavilions, and its kiosques, loaded with ornaments in the Sicilian style of architecture, and surrounded by plantations of elegant shrubs, which overhang the sea- washed rocks. Below, as if to contrast with the works of art on the heights above, nature had produced one of those beautiftd eifects which would be a study to the painter. The porosity and unequal THE COASTS OF SICILY. 161 density of the calcareous stone of which the beach is formed, have made it yield in every direction to the force of the waves, which have entered every crevice and washed over every point, until the entire mass has been undermined and broken up on all sides. These semi-arches, which are crowned and garlanded by the cactus and other shrubs, give rise to a perfect labyrinth of grottoes, which defies all description. It would require the skill of the most accomplished artist to give an idea of the marvellous admixture of forms, colours, and effects produced by the vast halls, in which a far larger pinnace than ours might have found shelter; where irregular porticoes, with strangely contorted pillars, seemed cut out of colossal agates ; and where all the most widely differing colours, from milky white to blood red or raven black, were blended to^^ether, varied and contrasted in the most striking manner. But no artist's touch could convey an idea of those submarine grottoes, those narrow and deep fissures in which the waves which had only just rippled over the arches at the water's edge, Avere engulfed and swallowed up amid the strangest and wildest sounds. The slight ripple raised by our small bark sufficed to awaken these singular voices of the shore, which fell upon the ear like the prolonged cry of some colossal monster whose rest had been abruptly disturbed. What then must be the awful rush of sounds given forth from these thousand mouthed openings when they meet the shock of the high waves as they are driven onwards by the blast of the tempest ! However, Ave had already doubled the Capo di yOL. I. M 162 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. Gallo, and were running against a stiff breeze, when the increased motion which had been imparted to our boat by the change in our course, warned MM. Edwards and myself that we had still something to learn in our sea apprenticeship. We at once fell victims to all the horrors of sea-sickness. Yielding to our misery, we threw ourselves upon our mat- tresses, and were content to cast a glance from time to time at the shore which flitted past as we lay stretched full length at the bottom of the boat. M. Blanchard had long since passed through the ordeal, and it cost us many a sigh of envy to find that the most violent rolling and pitching produced no other effect upon him than to increase his appetite. It w^as, however, very fortunate for the whole party that our companion did not share our weakness, for M. Edwards and myself, although lying close together, completely occupied the space allotted for our reserved quarters. Our shoulders pressed against the sides of the boat, while our feet rested below the first bench, against which two of the men had braced their legs and bare feet. If, therefore, M. Blanchard had also been compelled to betake himself to the bottom of the boat, he would have been reduced to the extremity of stretching himself under these living arches of the rowers' legs and arms, in an atmosphere which was the very reverse of agreeable. We had left Palermo somewhat late in the day, and night surprised us when we were opposite to a little sandy bay, commanded by the dismantled tower of Sferacavallo. We were oblis^ed to inaus^u- rate our expedition by passing our first night on THE COASTS OF SICILY. 163 board. The men ran the boat close into land, and made her fast by a grappling iron. Having arranged two oars crossways at each extremity of the bark, they rested the mast of our latteen sail upon this rude framework and covered the whole with tarpaulin. We opened our box of provisions by the light of a smoky lamp, and made our first bivouaclng meal on rancid sausage and the cacio cavallo of the district, the taste of which bears some resemblance to old Gruyere cheese. Having re-arranged our mat- tresses and put on our weather-proof capes, M. Edwards and myself stretched ourselves at full length, while M. Blanchard took up his quarters for the night at our feet ; our men, in the meanwhile, had stowed themselves away as best they could, some betAveen the benches, others on the sails and ropes, and soon the gentle rocking of the boat, as it was moved by the feeble oscillations of the waves, had buried alike naturalists and seamen in profound sleep. There was an unforeseen circumstance, however, which unfortunately soon came to destroy any ro- mantic sentiments that the strange nature of our position might otherwise have tended to encourage- Seven Sicilian sailors, whose ordinary fare is garlic and onions, sleeping in clothes which have probably served them well for many long years, did not conduce to the purity of the atmosphere of a narrow and low tent, which the keenness of the night air had compelled us to keep perfectly closed. These exhalations were, moreover, blended with a far worse odour, some whiffs of which had already several times M 2 164 KAMBLES OP A NATURALIST. in the day affected us most disagreeably. We were not Ions: in discoverlnsi: the cause. While we were at supper, we had noticed in the half light around us, several insects, somewhat like bugs, of an inch in length, which we kncAV to be the cockroach (Blatta orientalis). These insects, which were formerly un- known in Europe, have been carried by commerce to all our larger towns, and are well known to the bakers of Paris under the name of Noirot or Can- qnerlin* Theu' long oval body, which is brown above and yellowish-brown below, is as flat as that of a bug ; but the odour which they exhale is far stronger and more nauseating than that given off by the * The genus Blatta, belonging to the order of the Orthoptera, comprises a large number of species, several of which are found in France, -without on that account being indigenous in the country. One of our indigenous species was known to the ancients, who called it lucifuga, in consequence of its aversion to light. All these insects appear, however, to be similar in this respect. Among all the Blatter which have been imported, and which are unfortunately too well acclimatised amongst us, I will instance our common kitchen Cockroach, Blatta orientalis, which is the one referred to in the text, and the American Cockroach, Blatta americana. The former of these appears to have been brought to Europe in trading vessels from the Levant. This species is partial to heat, and generally takes up its abode near bakers' ovens or furnaces. It is said that the Cricket pursues and destroys it. The American Cockroach was not introduced into Paris until the beginning of the present century, when, as we learn from M. Dumeril, it was imported in 1802 into the hothouses at the Museum, from packing cases which had been used in the transport of plants. This species is much larger than the preceding one, measuring three inches in length, inclusive of the antennae. It is said to do much damage in the sugar plantations in America, but we do not think that it has been found very destructive in the Jardin des Plantes. THE COASTS OF SICILY. 165 smaller vermin. Like the latter, however, they are nocturnal in their habits. Concealed all day in some dark retreat, they emerge at night from their hiding places, and wander forth in search of food. Sugar, broken pieces of bread or meat, all seem alike acceptable to them, and even if nothing better is to be had, they will attack old leather. Their fecundity fully equals their voracity, and they oc- casionally swarm in such myriads on board trading vessels, that they will sometimes destroy the entire cargo and render the vessel unfit for further service. Such were the tenants which the Santa Rosalia harboured in every crevice of her timbers, and which as soon as night approached, came forth by thousands, diffusing around and over us a pestiferous stench. The most energetic means that we could devise, proved inadequate for their destruction. During the course of our voyage we frequently caused the men to haul the boat ashore, and wash it thoroughly with sea-water, while we even attempted to plug up every hole and crevice in her sides ; but it was all labour lost, for the cockroaches speedily re-appeared as numerous and as pestiferous as ever. We were compelled to resign ourselves to the evil, in the hope that habit might diminish the disgust which these unbidden guests occasioned us. Yet, notwithstanding the disagreeable discovery which it brought us, our first night's bivouac passed off most admirably. At break of day the next morning, we awoke our crew, and got speedily under weigh, being extremely impatient to reach some station which might prove more favourable for our M 3 166 KAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. researches. Fortune befriended us ; for in doubling a small promontory we perceived an islet whose contour was broken in all directions by the projection of sharp rocks along the water's edge, which, no doubt, afforded numerous and snus; retreats for those Molluscs, Annelids, and other marine popula- tions, which we were desirous of studying. On consulting our map, we found that this was the Isola delle Femine, situated opposite to the tongue of land and rocky ledge, on Avhich stands the village of Torre dell' Isola di Terra, inhabited by a population of fishermen. We at once landed, and while one of the sailors was boilino; some eofo-s for our breakfast, by aid of a fire of sticks, we examined the beach, and soon saw enouo;h to convince ourselves that we could not select a more promising spot for our first halting place. Elated at the discovery we had made, we proceeded with much satisfaction to despatch our breakfast of hard boiled eggs, deliberating the while upon the chances of meeting with anything like available accommodation among the fishing population of the place. While we were thus engaged, a superannuated custom-house officer approached, and with great de- monstrations of respect, implored our Excellencies to proceed to the village, where we would, he assured us, find no difficulty in meeting with suitable accom- modation. This mark of attention surprised us not a little ; but we soon discovered the source to which we owed it. It appeared that, independently of the letters with which we had been furnished, and which were all potent against the supervisions and exactions THE COASTS OF SICILY. 167 of the customs and the quarantine, the Duke of Serra cli Falco and the Duke of Cacamo, Director General of the Sanitary Commission, had also sent a circular to all their subordinates, Informing them of our arrival, and instructing them to afford us all the assistance in their power. We were expected at all the stations along the coast, and from the very outset we exj^erienced the favourable effects of these powerful recommendations. Following our aged guide, we therefore at once proceeded towards the village, wdiere we were met by the cure of this little congregation, who eagerly pressed us to take up our abode in his house, an offer which we gratefully accepted. The villao;e of Torre dell' Isola is a sort of fief appertaining to the Count of Capaci. The houses, of which there are about a hundred, are low and small, but outwardly clean. They have almost all been built at the expense of the proprietor, who lets them to his tenantry for a trifling rent. The village num- bers about 1200 inhabitants. Living upon a tongue of land, covered with sand and rocks, among w hich nothing but the wild cactus can take root and thrive, the population Is of necessity entirely devoted to fishing. At the time of our arrival, almost all the men w^ere absent, and were not expected to return until after the season of the Sardine fishery, for the sea like the land, has its harvest seasons, which come almost on a fixed day, with this advantage, however, Avhlch is entirely in the favour of the maritime harvests, that they require no preliminary expenditure of labour in sowing or planting. M 4 168 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. The manor house overlooks the little harbour of this maritime community. It had been orii^inally constructed t-o serve the double purpose of affording accommodation to the lord of the manor and to pre- pare the tunnies which were taken in the neighbour- hood of the island ; but for many years past the fish have forsaken their old haunts, and the pro- prietors have become absentees. The building is therefore now appropriated to the cure of the village, who, at the time of our visit, was a poor Dominican, who, for forty -one tari, or less than twenty francs a month, celebrated mass every Sunday, confessed the dying, performed the service of marriage, and bap-« tized the newly born. Notwithstanding his poverty, this good pastor, who loved animals of every kind, managed to keep five or six cage birds, a few chickens, three cats, and two dogs. I asked li^yself whether it were possible that he could feed the poor creatures ; their starved appearance certainly war- ranted a doubt on the subject. The dogs, especially, were in an inconceivably meagre condition, and looked like animal machines reduced to their simplest forms.- It seemed as if the poor wretches had grown up in a state of continual starvation. The Padre Antonino, who, with the exception of his pets, Avas the sole occupant of the ancient resi- dence of the counts of Capaci, was able, without ncommoding himself, to give up to our use three large apartments, in which every thing betokened the most complete neglect. It was only with ex- treme difficulty that one could still trace the outlines of ancient frescoes which had once covered the naked THE COASTS OF SICILY. 169 "walls and adorned the cracked ceilings, but which had long since crumbled into dust from the corrosive action of the damp sea air. The lofty windows, with their rotten frames, seemed as if they would break into fragments in our hands when we tried to open them. Time had coated the fcAV panes which still remained with so thick a layer of dust, that they had lost all transparency and seemed to be converted into plates of ground glass. It need scarcely be observed that there was nowhere a vestige of furniture, but yet we were only too happy to meet w^ith a lodging of this kind, which afforded us shelter and ample space for our investigations, within a few paces of the sea. We lost no time in taking possession of our new quarters. The panes of glass were washed, and where they had been broken in the lower frames their place was supplied by sheets of paper, to pro- tect our w^orking tables from the draughts which might otherwise have interfered with our observa- tions. Long planks, ranged side by side, and sup- ported by firm wooden props, afforded admirable standing room for the basins of sea-water destined to receive our various animal treasures. The bed- steads, on which we placed our mattresses, w^ere con- structed on similar principles, and our microscopes were carefully placed in front of the windows. Before the close of the day everything was ready, and after partaking of a meal very similar to our last night's supper, we tried to get rest and sleep upon our planks, which were only softened by the addition of the inch and a half of wool and cotton which constituted our entire bedding. 170 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. One feels a very slight degree of reluctance to leave a bed of this kind, and we consequently found no difficulty in beginning our labours by break of day. M. Blanchard betook himself, well provided with nets and other apparatus for hunting insects, to the landward side of the peninsula; while M. Edwards, embarking on board the Santa Rosalia, proceeded in search of marine animals ; and I under- took to explore the beach of the peninsula. My task was not an easy one, for the village was entirely surrounded by a broad margin of strangely dislocated calcareous rock. At some j)oints the stone resembled an enormous sjDonge, torn and cracked into fissures and irregular cavities, and studded with bristling points. At other parts of the beach, the rock seemed to be split into thin laminas, regularly separated by long and deep fissures. There was no alternative but to move incessantly up and down, like a man alternately ascending and descending a height of two or three feet, or to stride over chasms while you maintained your equilibrium upon some needle-like projection, or upon a rocky ledge as sharp as the blade of a knife. Although accustomed from child- hood to climb rocks, I was not prepared for such unusual difficulties, and I found that it required the utmost care to avoid meeting with some dangerous accident. Yet this peculiarity in the character of the rock was in itself a guarantee of its riches. In proportion as these fissures penetrated further into the sea they became converted into so many small basins, while the sharp edged rocks which rose around them served THE COASTS OF SICILY. 171 as sheltering walls, within which the Molluscs, An- nelids, and Crustaceans, whose habits lead them to resort to the sea-washed beach, find commodious retreats, that are impenetrable to all enemies save naturalists. Indeed, I soon found reason to rejoice at those inequalities of the ground which a few mo- ments before I had so heartily denounced. My tin boxes, tubes, and bottles, were soon filled to over- flowing, and I hurried back to our common quarters, where I was speedily joined by M. Edwards, who had also returned laden with treasures. Poor M. Blanchard alone came back empty-handed and in no very good humour. Trusting to his geographical charts and to the statements of travellers, he had believed that there exists no real winter in these favoured climes ; but in Sicily, as in France, nature has her times of rest, and the insects which were destined in a few weeks to fill the air with their swarming myriads, were still slumbering within their subterranean galleries, or in their silky wrappers, in the larval and chrysalis state. Our companion was, however, soon consoled for his own disappointment when he saw our well filled bottles and basins. What mattered it, that one of the three was unsuccessful, when the other two were laden with booty ? Although we had come to Sicily with very distinct plans of work, each one had it in his power to double his time and his resources by availing hmiself of the labours of his companions. On our table lay side by side large specimens of the Buccinum, which were peculiarly well adapted to furnish materials for the researches which M. Blan- 172 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. cliard intended making in reference to the nervous system of the jNIollusca ; Beroid^, radiate gelatinous animals belonging to the Acalephas, creatures as trans- parent as glass, and which had already formed the subject of several important works by M. Edwards, but whose singular organisation still presents innu- merable problems for future solution ; and Annelids, together with phlebenterous Gasteropods*, the study of which had been the special object of my voyage. We had, therefore, each a rich and noble field of in- quiry opened to us, and, like industrious workmen, we lost no time in bringing forth the tools which were to aid us in our scientific labours; thus, in a few moments, our forceps, scalpels, compressors, and microscopes were in full operation. I must not forget to mention that we were careful before we set to work in good earnest, to partition to each of the crew his special duties, and to arrange our household in a systematic manner. The master, Perone, who, as Captain, was necessarily associated with his boat, became the leader of our fishing excursions ; and his dexterity, keen sight, and athletic strength, fully justified the confidence we had placed in him in this capacity. The two sailors who spoke Italian were appointed to perform any special personal services that we might require. Carmel was a fine fellow, about five and twenty years old, whose quickness, intelligence, and willingness to oblige, seemed to adapt him most thoroughly to be our valet de chambre; his comrade, Juseppe * I shall explain the meaning of the word Phlehenterata and Pklebenterism in Chapter V., on Trapani. THE COASTS OF SICILY. 173 Artese, combined the double functions of steward and cook. It must be confessed, however, that few persons had less claim to be regarded as a cook than this unfortunate individual, who never could be taught how to salt a dish of macaroni, or how to stew a fowl in rice, without converting the materials into a dish of hot water and sodden meat. He scarcely had managed to learn how to boil our eggs at the end of the season. Still, poor as his culinary talents most undoubtedly were, we were obliged to content ourselves with them. For the rest, he was honest enough in his way, for, as far as we could discover, he contented himself with a profit of cent, per cent. upon all the purchases which he made on our account. The duties confided to Carmel and Artese, gave them a wonderful degree of importance in their own eyes, and this superiority was admitted without much hesitation by their comrades. There was even a certain distinction established between the two, and we were amused at the manifestations of the different grades which existed amons* the members of this hierarchy. Thus, for instance, if we asked Carmel to bring us some sea-water, he would, without vouchsafing a word, take the bucket, and in a minute or two we would hear him call to his companion, '^ O Pepe ! II Signor Grande," a title by wdiich the men designated M. Edwards, *^ il Signor Grande, boF agua di mar ! " " Bene," was the reply of Artese, who, taking the bucket, went downstairs as far as the outer door, from whence he hailed the captain, giving his orders in the same 174 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. form in which he had received them. Perone re- peated them to his men, who, carrying out the same principle, passed the orders on, until it almost in- variably happened that the bucket was brought back to us by Rapbaele, the slave and drudge of the crew. This fellow, although strong and robust, was lazy to excess, and always tried to do as little as possible of any labour that had to be done ; but then he was a Neapolitan, and on account of this alone, he had to endure ridicule of every kind, and was constantly exposed to the jibes of the other sailors, who were proud of being Sicilians and natives of Palermo, and hence, whenever there was any extra job to be done, it was invariably thrown upon this poor wretch, notwithstanding the innumerable arti- fices to which he had recourse to avoid the threatened imposition. When these arrangements were completed, no further delay interfered with the prosecution of our studies. Every morning when the weather was good, one of ns went out in the boat with Perone — an opportunity which was not neglected for laying in a supply of fish for the day's consumption. The boat was generally brought close to the Isola delle Femine, on account of the excellent fishing; ofround in the vicinity. I saw the sea here under an aspect entirely new to me. The ocean does not exhibit those absolute and profound calms which are ob- served in inland seas where the surface of the water is often as smooth as a mirror, permitting the eye to distinguish the minutest details at an incredible depth. I was at first often deceived by this THE COASTS OF SICILY. 175 marvellous transparency into the belief that I could grasp some Annelid or Medusa, which seemed to be swimming at only a few inches distance from me. Our patrone watched the proceeding with a sarcastic smile, and taking a long pole with a small net attached to one of its extremities, he, to my intense astonishment, plunged it many feet below the surface before it came in contact with the objects which I had imagined I could grasp in my hand. This marvellously limpid condition of the water produced another charming illusion. Leaning over the side of the boat, we could see flitting beneath our eyes a vision of plains, valleys, and hills, in one place with bare and rugged sides, in another, clothed with verdant herbage, or dotted over with tufts of brownish shrubs, and in all respects calling to mind the distant view of a passing landscape. But it was not the varied outlines of a terrestrial scene on which our eyes were riveted, for we were scanning the ruijsfed contour of rocks, more than a hundred feet below us, amid submarine precipices, along which the undulating sands, the sharply cut angles of the stone, and the rich tufts of brightly coloured red weeds and glossy fucus fronds, lay revealed to sight with such incredible preciseness and clear- ness, as completely to deprive us of the power of separating the real from the ideal. After gazing intently for a while at the picturesque scene beneath our eyes, we scarcely perceived the intervening liquid element which served for its atmosphere and bore us on its clear surface. We seemed to be suspended in empty space, or, rather, realising one 176 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. of those dreams in which the imagination often indulges, we appeared to be soaring like a bird, and to contemplate from some aerial height the thousand varied features of hill and dale. Strangely formed beings were harbouring within these submarine retreats, and imparted to them a most characteristic physiognomy. Here and there a solitary fish darted forth like a lonely sparrow issuing from its covert: next, a crowded shoal came forth like a flock of pigeons or swallows, and winding their way along the large stones, would search the tufts of waving Algae, until the sight of our boat passing above their heads would put the entire band to flight with every de- monstration of fear. The Gorgonidae*, Caryophyl- lid^ef , and a hundred different kinds of Polyzoaries * The Gorgonia is a genus of polypes, belonging to the order of the Alcyonidae. Their polyparies, which are horny, widely ramified, and often expanded like a broad fan, are very common in Natural History museums. f The CaryophyUia belongs to the order of the Zoanthoid Polypes, so called from their resemblance to certain flowers. We may consider, as the type of this order, the common Actinias, which are very abundant on every sea-shore, but here the individuals are isolated. In a large number of the Zoanthoid Polypes, however, and more especially in the CaryophyUia, the individuals are aggregated, and in general their integuments and the reflected folds of the membrane lining the visceral cavity, are incrusted with calcareous salts, so as to form solid polyparies. (On the Polypes, we may refer to the difl'erent works of Milne Edwards, and especially to that which he is now publishing in conjunction with M. Haime.) These Zoanthoid Polypes ai-e the principal agents in the formation of those Coral islands and Madrepore reefs, which render the navi- gation of the Indian Seas so dangerous. In these latitudes every iso- lated rock, if it be only covered with from thirty to forty feet of water, becomes the seat of a colony of these Polypes, which multiply with THE COASTS OF SICILY. 177 were blooming in tufts of living flowers, or ramified into little shrubs, every spur and bud of which was a most incredible rapidity. One generation builds its superstructure on the stony beds formed by preceding polypes, until the entire mass, increasing both in extent and thickness, finally reaches the surface of the ocean. In the tropics most of these islands are sur- rounded by a sort of rampart or breakwater, whose external walls, which are almost always perpendicular, inevitably break in pieces every vessel that strikes upon them. It is by a similar process that the different seas of these regions are studded with rocks nearly reaching to the surface of the water, and which are the more dangerous to the navigator, in consequence of their escaping his observation, while the depth of the sea surrounding them lulls him into a state of deceptive security even in cases where constant soundings are made. Coral islands consist of a narrow margin of slightly elevated land, which in some cases circumscribes a very extended space. Thds ring is either entirely formed by the coral structure, or by the association of it with other rocks. The lake or lagoon which is enclosed by this ring is sometimes very deep in all parts, at other times it declines into a funnel- like excavation, while in some cases it is interspersed with submerged rocks. There are, in general, several narrow passages which communicate between the ocean and the lagoon. In some cases, however, the ring is incomplete, and is only represented by a large number of individual segments, while, on the other hand, it is not unfrequently complete in every part, forming a garland of verdure round a calm and motionless lake, whilst the sea beyond breaks with violence against its coral walls. The greater portion of these strange formations is neces- sarily composed of the inner lake ; thus, for instance, the island of Taritari presents a surface of 110 square miles, of which only four belong to the land, the remaining 106 being composed of the lagoon. Several theories have been advanced to explain the formation of coral islands, and one of the most generally received opinions consists in admitting the existence of numerous submarine craters, the margins of which are at a depth suitable to the life and labours of the polypes ; whilst the centre of the crater, and the sides of the mountain from which it originates, have been suddenly engulfed in VOL. I. N 178 RAMBLES OF A I^ATURALIST. an animal, and which, by their interlacing stems, their variegated branches and budding shoots, can scarcely be distino;uished from true vegetables. Enormous dark brown Holothurias were creeping over the sand or climbing slowly up the rocks, waving their crown of tentacles, while beside them lay Star-fishes of bright pomegranate hues, motionless with their ra- diating arms extended around them. Molluscs, resem- bling in form a snail or a slug, although different in size and colour, were dragging themselves slowly onwards like their terrestrial brethren ; while crabs, having the form of enormous spiders, were striding over them in their rapid and sideway course, pausing only from time to time to seize them with their formidable pincers. Other crustaceans, allied to our shrimps and lobsters, sported among the tufted algje, the sea, and thus become uninhabitable to these minute beings. It will readily be understood that in such a case, the mass of the poly paries, on reaching the level of the waves, will, in fact, exhibit a band of reefs surrounding a free space. The debris accumulated on these ridges forms a stratum of mould on their surface, which is soon covered with the rich vegetation of the tropics that grows up from the seeds which the sea or the winds have scattered over this recent soil, Mr. Dana, who is one of the most eminent among the American naturalists, has recently offered an explanation of these formations, which at once accounts for the facts, while it explains several objections that present themselves to the preceding theory. This naturalist is of opinion that islands which have been slowly en- gulfed in the sea, actually existed formerly at the same spots where we now find coral islands. The present ring would, there- fore, in this case, mark the limits of the ancient shore. On this hypothesis we can conceive the formation of lagoons thirty miles in diameter, although such a diameter would be remarkable in the case of a crater. (See the works of [Darwin and] Dana on Coral Beefs and Islands. ) THE COASTS OF SICILY. 179 coming forth only for a moment into the pure light of the sky, and then, at the least indication of danger, boundino; with a vio-orous stroke of their tail back to the shelter of their sombre retreats. Amongst these animals, whose forms were more or less familiar to us, were other species, belonging to types wliich rarely or never reach our northern latitudes. There was the Comatula*, a near ally of the Asteridae, and which, to a certain extent, represents in existing creation the Crinoidae, which, although nearly extinct in our own day, are very common in a fossil state. f There were strings of crystal-clear Salpas, paradoxical molluscs, which are alternately oviparous and vivipa- rous, and whose successive generations are alternately * The Comatula is an Echinoderm, whose arms, instead of being simple like those of the Ophiura, or ramified like those of the Euryale, are furnished with a double series of pinnae, which give them the appearance of the leafy stems of certain plants. The organisation of the Comatulas has been studied by several natu- ralists, and amongst others by M. Dujardin. f The Crinoids, Stone Lilies, or Encrinites (Encrinus), form a re- markable group among the Echinoderms. Their body resembles in many respects that of the Comatula, but instead of being free like the latter, the Encrinites are affixed to the extremity of a long peduncle, which is itself composed of solid pieces, which are articulated, or, more correctly speaking, superposed upon one another and con- nected by soft parts. These small discs often exhibit the form of a star, composed of five regularly arranged points. The Encrinites constitute one of our commonest forms of fossils, and it was long supposed that the type had entirely disappeared from our existing Fauna, but in the last century the Academician Guettard discovered in the collection of M. Boisjourdain, a specimen of a living Encrinite which he described, and which is now in the Museum. Living Encrinites are, however, of very rare occurrence near our shores, although they are said to be very common in the seas washing the coast of Florida and the island of Barbadoes. N 2 180 RAMBLES OF A NATUEALIST. isolated and joined together Infloating colonies.* Here, too, we beheld enormous swarms of those large spheri- cal Beroesf, whose singular organisation has been made known by M. Edwards, countless Medusae J, * These strange facts in reference to the reproduction of the Salpae were discovered by Chamisso, the witty author of Peter Schlemil. He was the first who discovered that these Molluscs live alternately isolated and in chains, and that these two modes of existence recur in regular succession, and moreover, that the aggregated individuals are always oviparous, whilst the isolated individuals are always viviparous. These facts, which were published in 1819, were for a long time discredited; but phenomena of a similar nature which had not been previously observed have been discovered in other groups of animals, and the researches of Krohn have thoroughly demonstrated the accuracy of Chamisso's observations. This subject is further noticed in Chapter IV., on the Gulf of Castellamare. Krohn's memoir may be referred to in the Annales des Sciences Naturelles. f The family of the Bero'idae belongs to the class of the Acalephse. (See the researches of M. Edwards in the Annales des Sciences Naturelles.^ X The Medusse constitute another family in the class of the Acalephse. This group has been made the subject of a great number of speculations, and has led to numerous researches which have thrown much light on several very important questions. Reaumur, trusting too much to first impressions, considered that the greater number of the Medusae were simj^le masses of living jelly. M. Dumeril, a member of the Institute, and the early friend of Cuvier, injected the cavity of these animals with milk, when he saw the fluid diffuse itself into a multitude of canals, which were all arranged with the greatest regularity. This fact we believe first revealed the existence of a true organisation in these singular animals. Long after the observations of M. Dumeril, Ehrenberg published a memoir on the Aurelia {Medusa Auriia), in which he showed that this species possesses a remarkably complicated organi- sation. The researches of Will, Agassiz, Huxley, and others, although differing in reference to some points from the results which had been obtained by the learned Berlin observer, have fully THE COASTS OF SICILY. 181 whose extraordinary metamorphoses have already modified in so many respects the views which were formerly entertained in reference to the propagation of animal species, the Firolie*, and the Diphyes f, confirmed the general conclusions to be deduced from his work, viz. that these pretended masses of living jelly are by no means homo- geneous, as some naturalists still suppose, and that the transparency of their tissues was the only reason which could have led observers into this error. The reproduction of the Medusae which has been studied in more recent times by MM. Sars, Siebold, Van Beneden, Dujardin, &c., exhibits the most marvellous phenomena, to which we shall have occasion to refer in our next chapter on the Gulf of Castellamare. [The Medusae had been long previously injected by John Hunter.] ♦ The Firolae (Pto-o