RECENT MARINE SEDIMENTS OF CARMEL BAY, CALIFORNIA Lee Scott Carter NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL Monterey, California THESiS RECENT MARINE SEDIMENTS of CARMEL BAY, CALIFORNIA by Lee Scott Carter Thesis Advisor R. S. Andrews December 1971 Approved fan. pubtlc si&Z&aAz; dUtAJJouution imtunitcd. Recent Marine Sediments of Carmel Bay, California by Lee Scott Carter Lieutenant, United States Navy B.S., Naval Postgraduate School, 1970 Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE IN OCEANOGRAPHY from the NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL December 1971 ABSTRACT Fifty-six sediment samples were collected within Carmel Bay for textural analysis to determine their statistical properties. The sediments found within the Carmel Submarine Canyon consist, for the most part, of poorly to very poorly sorted very fine sand and coarse silt. The shelf area sur- rounding the canyon is primarily comprised of moderately to very poorly sorted sand, with a small area of very poorly sorted gravel in the northeastern section of the Bay. Con- sideration of textural parameters such as mean size, standard deviation, and skewness suggest that the sediments of the Bay are under the influence of a dynamic sediment transport mecha- nism. The Bay appears to be a sedimentary system primarily isolated from adjacent coastal sediment sources, with the major sources of sedimentary deposits being terrigeneous debris from the Carmel River, erosion and weathering of the local coastline and offshore rocks by wave and weather, and the shells and tests of numerous calcareous marine organisms. Movement of sediments by slumping and gravity sliding down the Carmel Submarine Canyon appears to be the only form of sediment removal within the Bay. TABLE OF CONTENTS I. INTRODUCTION 8 A. DESCRIPTION OF CARMEL BAY 8 B. REGIONAL GEOLOGY 11 C. BATHYMETRY 13 D. GENERAL OCEANOGRAPHY 14 II. SAMPLE COLLECTION 15 III. SAMPLE ANALYSIS 17 A. MECHANICAL ANALYSIS PROCEDURE 17 B. COMPUTER ANALYSIS OF RAW DATA 18 IV. PRESENTATION OF DATA 20 A. TEXTURE OF SEDIMENTS 20 1. Mean Grain-Size 20 2. Standard Deviation . 25 3. Skewness 27 B. SHELL CONTENT 27 C. PEBBLE COMPOSITION 30 V. DISCUSSION AND INTERPRETATION 31 A. SEDIMENT DISTRIBUTION PATTERN 31 B. SEDIMENT SOURCES AND SINKS 35 VI. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 38 VII. SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER STUDIES 40 APPENDIX A: Computer Data Card Formats 41 SAMPLE OF COMPUTER 'OUTPUT 42 COMPUTER PROGRAM -- 43 REFERENCES CITED -- : 56 INITIAL DISTRIBUTION LIST 58 FORM DD 1473 --- - 60 LIST OF TABLES I. II. Carmel Bay Sample Locations, Sand-Silt-Clay Relation- ships, and Size Statistics 21 Estimates of Sample Shell Content 29 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Location of Carmel Bay, California 9 2. Carmel Bay Bathymetry 10 3. Carmel Bay Sediment Sample Locations 16 4. Tertiary Diagram: Sand-Silt-Gravel Relationships 2 4 5. Standard Deviation as a Function of Mean Grain Size 2 6 6. Skewness as a Function of Mean Grain Size -- 28 7. Sediment Mean Grain-Size Distribution 32 8. Sediment Standard Deviation Distribution 33 9. Sediment Shell Content 34 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author is deeply indebted to Dr. Robert S. Andrews of the Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California for his assistance. Assistance in the collection and processing of samples is gratefully acknowledged from Lcdr. Charles K. Roberts, USN; Lt. Ralph A. Zardeskas, USN; Lt. John P. Simpson, USN; Mr. Jack C. Mellor; Mr. Lawrence Leopold; Miss Norma Tatum; Miss Theodora Cristobel; Mrs. Cynthia J. Carter; and the crews of the Naval Postgraduate School 63-foot Hydrographic Research Vessel and USNS BARTLETT (T-AGOR-13). Grateful acknowledgment is also made to Miss Sharon D. Raney of the W. R. Church Computer Center at the Naval Postgraduate School for her preparation of the computer program for sediment size analysis. Partial funding for this study was provided to Dr. Andrews through the Naval Postgraduate School Research Foundation under an Office of Naval Research contract. I INTRODUCTION The objective of this study was to describe the distribu- tion of the recent marine sediments of Carmel Bay, California. To accomplish this objective, 52 grab samples and 1 gravity core were collected within the Bay. Among the previous studies of the marine sediments of Carmel Bay are two M.S. theses by students of the Naval Post- graduate School; one on the sediments at the head of the Carmel Submarine Canyon [Wal 1 in, 1968] , and one on a heavy mineral investigation of Carmel Bay beach sands [Gri ff in, 1969]. Judge [1970] reported on one sample taken at Carmel River Beach and analyzed for size distribution and heavy mineral content. A. DESCRIPTION OF CARMEL BAY Carmel Bay is located on the Coast of California approxi- mately 160 km south of the entrance to San Francisco Bay (Fig. 1) and 9 km south of the southern extreme of Monterey Bay. The Bay is generally rectangular in shape with dimensions of about 4.3 km in the north-south direction and 3.6 km in the east-west direction CFig. 2). The Bay is bounded on the north by the community of Pebble Beach, on the east by the City of Carmel, and on the south by Point Lobos State Reserve. The Bay drains approximately 670 square km of watershed through two watercourses, the Carmel River and San Jose Creek (Fig. 2) [California State Department of Water Resources, 1969 ] . 8 San Francisco Bay Monte Bay PACIFIC OCEAN Figure l.« Location of Carmel Bay, California K*Jf no ho STILLWATER COVE i I45J00 ITS San Jose Creek PLATE 1 * lATHTHfmiC CH1BT OF CAMEL B*T CALIFORNIA U 1 k 1 1 UP KMIK •WTflt HMUIS.USI ■TO* o«ii«ii»H', uui BKisitOlMTt ,.* ;. MUM "no ooo fumh FIJI . > CWKCTEB FM HWIO »(L)(HI TtttwiV1 "uMM aus mi smioio KIC-4 ML If *fl« "c its smut H HH. DEC 1)11 ITHKI INK iulifiCOiSuC EO id- I MM in Figure 2. Carmel Bay Bathymetry. (After Zardeskas, 1971 ) 10 The discharge from the Carmel River is quite seasonal with heavy runoff during the rainy winter months and virtually no runoff during the summer and fall months. During the summer and fall months the beach berm crest closes off the river mouth, forming a small fresh-water lagoon on the backshore. After the start of the rainy season, and as conditions dictate, the mouth of the river is forced open by bulldozer to reduce the danger of severe flood damage if the river is unable to breach the berm crest by itself. Normally this forced opening of the mouth is required only once or twice a year; however, during the winter of 1966-1967 the river mouth was forced open 25 times by crews from the Point Lobos Reserve State Park [Mr. Donald Rich, personal communication]. This breeching results in the carrying off of large amounts of sedimentary debris into the ocean. The flow of water from San Jose Creek is normally so meager that ^/ery little water ever reaches the shore of the Bay except during periods of heavy winter rains. B. REGIONAL GEOLOGY The geology of the area surrounding Carmel Bay has been studied in some depth by Lawson [1893], Beal [1915], Bowen [1965], and Ni 1 i -Esfahani [1965]. Bowen's publication is the basis for much of the following information. There are several different formations associated with the geology of Carmel Bay and its associated watersheds. These watersheds constitute an important source of supply of fresh materials for the sediments of the Bay. The most conspicuous of the rocks is the Santa Lucia porphyritic biotite 11 granodiorite . This formation was intruded deep into the Paleozoic Sur Series early in the Cretaceous period. Through uplift and erosion much of the Sur Series was removed, leaving only the granodiorite. Subsequent depression presented the opportunity for further marine deposition. During the Paleocene age the Carmelo Series, consisting of interlayed beds of sandstones, siltstones and conglomerates, was deposited The Middle Miocene Chamisal Formation overlays the Carmelo east of the Bay and this is in turn overlain by Middle Miocene iddingsite andesite lava which outcrops at five or six points around the Bay. The lava is in turn overlain by Middle and Upper Miocene Monterey siliceous shale. Granodiorite outcrops are found at three points around the shore of the Bay: Pescadero Point, Abalone Point, and Point Lobos. The Carmelo outcrops in the northern area of the Bay in the vicinity of Stillwater Cove and to the south in the vicinity of Whaler's Cove. A massive outcrop of lava exists at Arrowhead Point, with a smaller one appearing to the south of Carmel Beach. The remainder of the shoreline consists of the Quaternary sandstones which lie above the Monterey shale, and Recent unconsolidated sand and gravel. The upper watershed of the Carmel River is composed primarily of Paleozoic metamorphic gneisses of the Sur Series. These metamorphics are an important source of supply of heavy minerals to the sediments and beaches of Carmel Bay. The lower portion of the watershed is comprised primarily of Santa Lucia granodiorite and Tertiary sedimentary rocks 12 [California State Department of Water Resources, 1969] . These sedimentary rocks, being generally soft, are subject to intense weathering, and contribute a much greater amount of sedimentary material for transport to the sea than do the much harder crystalline metamorphic and granitic rocks of the area. San Jose Creek follows a path that takes it through Monterey shale and Santa Lucia granodi ori te . C. BATHYMETRY A complete bathymetric survey of Carmel Bay was made in March of 1971 [Fig. 2). This was the first survey made of the entire Bay which utilized echo-sounding equipment [Zardeskas, 1971 J . The current U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey chart of the Bay (C&GS 5476) is based on data collected in 1933 utilizing lead line soundings and sextant navigation. The Bay is transected by the Carmel Submarine Canyon, which has its origin immediately offshore of San Jose Creek and its termination where it branches with the Monterey Submarine Canyon some 21 km to the northwest of the mouth of San Jose Creek. The bed of San Jose Creek, which flows through a narrow V-shaped canyon throughout its 10 miles of length, tends to follow the Blue Rock Fault [Gri f f in, 1 969] and appears to be a direct landward extension of the Carmel Submarine Canyon. Carmel Canyon is similarly a narrow V-shaped canyon cut into granodiorite [Shepard, 1963] . The area to the south of the Carmel Submarine Canyon axis is bounded by small pocket beaches, rocky cliffs and large offshore rocks, both submerged and exposed. Numerous ravines 13 traverse the nearsfiore shelf and intersect the edge of the canyon at a water depth of about 50 fm. The coastline to the north of the canyon axis is also very rocky, with large offshore rocks and small pocket beaches. The bottom has a much gentler slope than the area to the south, and as in the south, reaches a depth of approximately 50 fm before rapidly dropping off into the canyon. The eastern side of the Bay is bounded by three sandy beaches: San Jose Beach (some- times called Monastery Beach), Carmel River Beach, and Carmel Beach (Fig. 2), each separated from the next by a rugged out- crop of granodiorite (plus some Miocene lava between Carmel River Beach and Carmel Beach). The head of the canyon is located about 200 m offshore from San Jose Beach (Monastery Beach) with the rim of the canyon occurring at depths of 7 fm to 10 fm [Wal 1 in, 1968, p. 17]. One major branch of the canyon incises the northern shelf of the Bay. D. GENERAL OCEANOGRAPHY References in recent literature concerning the physical oceanographic properties of Carmel Bay are noticeably lacking. Records of measurements of the currents and thermal structure of the Bay are virtually nonexistent. The tides in the Bay are of the mixed type characteristic of the Pacific Coast of the United States [Sverdrup, Johnson, and Fleming, 1942]. The diurnal difference between mean lower low water and mean higher high water is 5.2 feet [U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, 19 71 ] . 14 II. SAMPLE COLLECTION Samples were collected by ship, using a Shipek grab sampler and a 2.75-inch, outside diameter, 700 -lb total weight gravity corer. Fifty-two grab samples and one gravity core CStation C-l) were collected during the period from April to June 1971 [Fig. 3). Stations were located by measuring the horizontal angles between known landmarks around the Bay utilizing a sextant. Sample depth was obtained by fathometer, or by wire depth when electronic soundings were not available. It was not possible to occupy some stations in the vicinity of Carmel Beach and Pescadero Point due to heavy concentrations of kelp [Macrocys ti s pryi fera ) in these areas. Several sample collections were attempted in the kelp-free areas off of Pescadero Point, but only a few rock dwelling tunicates and gastropods were collected, suggesting a rocky bottom. Grab samples were placed in double plastic bags and re- frigerated until processed. The gravity core in its plastic liner was capped and sealed and stored in a cool, dark loca- tion in an upright position until cut and processed. 15 I2I°58'W 18 O 36" 34'N 33' 32' Depth contours in fm 31 Nautical Miles Feet 8000 Figure 3. Carmel Bay Sediment Sample Locations 16 III. SAMPLE ANALYSIS A. MECHANICAL ANALYSIS PROCEDURE Grain-size analyses were conducted in accordance with the procedures outlined in Krumbein and Pettijohn [1938]. Grab samples were split to obtain a representative subsample of about 60 g. Three of the grab samples (Samples 10, 26, and 47) contained a large number of large pebbles, making splitting of the sample difficult. Therefore, each of these samples was analyzed in its entirety. The core was split lengthwise into two equal halves and four subsamples were taken . All subsamples were washed in distilled water to desalt. Each subsample was then allowed to settle and the excess water decanted off. The subsample was then wet sieved through a 4.0(3 screen to separate the sand- and gravel-size fractions from the silt- and clay-size fractions. The fine fraction (>4. 00) was collected in a 1000-ml sedimentation cylinder and the coarse fraction was dried. The dried coarse fraction was then size graded with screens according to the Wentworth scale using phi notation [Folk, 1968]. This was accomplished by sieving at a 0.50 interval through 3-inch diameter sieves shaken on a Ro-tap automatic shaking machine for 10-min. The three large samples (Samples 10, 26, and 47) were sieved through 8-inch screens. The fraction retained on each sieve was weighed to the nearest 17 0.1 mg and the 3.00, 3.50, and 4.00 fractions were placed in vials for later microscopic analysis. The fraction finer than 4.00 (pan fraction) obtained dur- ing dry sieving was next added to the 1000-ml cylinder con- taining the fine fraction obtained by wet sieving. A pep- tizing agent CCalgon) was then added and a pipette analysis was performed on each subsample with a 0.50 interval. Wadell's correction of Stoke's law was used to determine the settling velocities of the different sized particles. Each 20-ml pipette aliquot was dried and weighed to the nearest 0.1 mg, taking into account the weight of the dried peptizer in the sample . Those silt-clay samples which obviously contained less than 5% of the total sample weight were not analyzed using the pipette method, but were instead transferred to a 50-ml beaker, dried, and weighed directly to check this assumption. B. COMPUTER ANALYSIS OF RAW DATA Statistical parameters for describing the size distribution in each sample were calculated on an IBM 360 Computer. A size analysis computer program prepared by W. R. Anikouchine [Dinger, 1970, p. 31] was slightly modified to provide a printed output of phi sizes at the 5th, 16th, 25th, 50th, 75th, 84th, and 95th percentile levels, gravel -sand-s i lt-cl ay relation- ships, plus Trask values, Inman values, and Folk and Ward values [Collias, et al., 1963], using both linear and four point interpolation methods. A copy of the computer program 18 and a sample of the computer output is listed at the end of this thesis. Computer data card formats are listed in Appendix A. 19 IV. PRESENTATION OF DATA A. TEXTURE OF SEDIMENTS The tabulated results of the computer size analysis are presented for the gravel, sand, silt, and clay percentages and the linear interpolation of the Folk and Ward statistics (Table I). While the term "gravel" does not appear in Wentworth size classifications, it is commonly used to repre- sent the combination of granules and pebbles; i.e., particles coarser than -1.00 and finer than -6.00 [Folk, 1968]. 1 . Mean Grain-Size The mean grain-size of the sediments of Carmel Bay covered a wide range of values from -3.340 (Sample 47) to 4.710 (Sample 59) . Sand-silt-clay-gravel relationships were plotted on a sand-silt-gravel diagram similar to that devised by Shepard [Collias, et al., 1963, p. 33]. The sand-silt-gravel diagram (Fig. 4) is one face of a tetrahedron used by Krumbein and Sloss [1963, p. 158] to plot sand-silt-clay-gravel relation- ships. All of the Carmel Bay samples contained less than 20% clay, thus allowing the samples to be plotted on the sand-silt' gravel face of the tetrahedron. The samples ranged in texture from gravel (Sample 47) to sandy-silt (Samples 35, 42, 53, 56, 57, 59, and 61) (Fig. 4), with 28 of the 56 samples containing more than 75% sand. 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Standard Deviation Standard deviation values ranged from a value of 0.430 for Sample 47B to 3.340 for Sample 26. Sample 47B was the only sample collected within the Bay that was well sorted. Nine samples were classified as very poorly sorted with the remain- der of the samples being approximately evenly divided between moderately sorted and poorly sorted. Folk and Ward's [1957] statistical analysis of the sediments of a river bar in Texas revealed that a plot of mean grain-size vs. standard djeviation for their group of samples showed a definite trend line of sinusoidal nature. Comparison of the Carmel Bay plot of mean grain-size vs. standard devia- tion [Fig. 5} with the results obtained by Folk and Ward (dashed line on plot) shows a marked similarity between the two, suggesting the sediments of the Bay are under the in- fluence of some form of dynamic transport. Some anomalies do exist however. These anomalies may possibly be explained by the fact that all of the anomalous samples (Samples 2, 3, 18, 32, 33, 41, 43, 47, 54B, 57, and 63) except one (Sample 26) are composed primarily of shell fragments and other calcareous marine organism remains, and are located in water less than 50 fm deep. Differences in density and grain shape of these samples compared to those of mineral strains could well cause a different type of sorting behavior. 25 CO + _ CM _ CO N IS) c s- CO 03 O) CM + c o +-> c OS + I/) 03 C U o k +-> c GO 13 CD o o o o ^ CO CN — 0 'UOJJDIAaQ pjDpUD45 26 3. Skewness Skewness values ranged from +0.74 (Sample 26) to -0.72 (Sample 28). The samples were approximately evenly divided between positively and negatively skewed (Fig. 6), and tended to follow the trend obtained by Folk and Ward [dashed line on plot) in their river bar study. The depar- tures of the skewness values for Carmel Bay samples from those of Folk and Ward may be explained by recognizing the differ- ence between river and continental shelf depositional environments and sources. B. SHELL CONTENT Visual inspection was made of the 0.00 and larger frac- tions of each sample and an estimate made of the percentage of shells, shell fragments, worm tubes, bryozoan colonies, corals, and echinoderm spines contained in each sample (Table II). All of these constituents were grouped under the heading of "shells." These estimates revealed approximately 20% of the samples contained 100% "shells" in their 0.00 and coarser fractions, 25% of the samples contained 50% to 99% "shells," 30% contained 1% to 49% "shells," and the remaining 25% of the samples contained no visible amount of "shells." Considerable amounts of small particles of vegetable matter (probably kelp) were noted in eight of the samples (Samples 5, 13, 17, 58, 59, 61, 62, and C-1A). Of additional interest was the fact that Sample 14 contained nine living sand dollars CDendraster excentricus) when brought aboard ship. No other benthic organisms or their remains were noted within this sampl e . 27 1 1 — o 0 sn o *■■*' o -D o 1_ o o £ - o o o o -o c o - o o _* c 1 o u_ , o 1 E \ o o° o o la ^ \ e 0\ > — \ w i_ \ V o \ — c ,«B \ — o o o \ o \ o o \ o o Oo 1 1 / ""■ o ° o / / o/ / o *■*■ / / / / 1 \ / o o o o \ - \ o 1 1 1 — + O) CO M + •i — OO c •f— rt3 CN c + CD s: 4- O o •1— + T& =5 u. CO N t^t^ * # oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo * ■& UJUJWUJmWULJUJWUJUJLUUJ WUJLUUJUJUJUJUJUJUJUJWUJW ■H- -W- MMMMMMrvJMM^MMMMMMMMMMMMMMNjMMrNlrvlMrvlMMMMMMMMrsllvirvl * # MMWMMHMMHWMWMHMMMMH.MWMMHMHHMMMMMHHMMMMWMMH * * OOOOCOOOOOOO(/)0000 000000000000000000000^0000 000000-5- ► r- * it OOX < U- * it X. 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