A RIVER

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A RIVER OF NORWAY

A RIVER OF NORWAY

BEING

THE NOTES AND REFLECTIONS
OF AN ANGLER

BY

CHARLES THOMAS-STANFORD

WITH 10 PHOTOGRAVURE PLATES AND A COLOURED PLAN

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.

39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON

NEW YORK AND BOMBAY
1903

All rights reserved

TO MY WIFE

PREFACE

has yet to find its Scrope or Stoddart.
The late Mr. Bromley Davenport indeed held
us entranced with his tale of sport on fjeld and
river; Mr. Abel Chapman has given us a masterly
survey of its wild life by land and water ; as a
rule, however, the most successful sportsmen
have been content to keep their good fortune to
themselves. But the conditions of sport have
changed, and the day of seclusion and reti-
cence is past. The exploitation of salmon
rivers as a business, and the free advertise-
ment of their merits, have made the names
of the Laerdal, the Sundal, the Orkla and
many another river household words among
anglers.

Nota magis nulli domus est sua, quam mihi lucus
Martis, et Aeoliis vicinum rupibus antrum
Vulcani.

That this slight contribution to Norwegian
angling literature will interest the friends
who have fished with me, and those others

ix

M844835

x PREFACE

who have followed our doings from afar, I
may reasonably hope. That it will prove of
equal interest to a wider circle I have but a
modest expectation.

The illustrations are from photographs by
my wife. To my friend, Mr. C. S. Peach,
I am indebted for the excellent plan of the
Ladder.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
THE IlIVER GAULA

PAGE

The river : its course and general characteristics — Casting
and harling — Last winter's snows — Early run offish — The
tidal water — Fishing therein — Our boatmen ... 1

CHAPTER II
SALMON

The Norwegian spring— Absence of mosquitoes— And of
tourists — Uncertainty of early sport — A good night's
sport — A big and lazy fish — A lucky day — A story of net-
ting— The salmon's habits — Feeding — Taking the fly —
Bishop Pontoppidan's views 15

CHAPTER III
LARS

Death of Lars— The funeral— A neglected churchyard— Stories
of the old man — Sad case of Mr. Blank — Lars and the
rustics — An hour's sport — Norwegian gaffers — The Aaro
— A desperate effort 33

CHAPTER IV
MORE SALMON

A July flood — Scarcity of salmon — A fresh run — The old days
— Breton's visit in 1834 — Late-running fish — Sport in
September— Casting over a rising fish — Logs — Sawdust —

Ropes and anchors — Bait-fishing ..... 40
xi

xii CONTENTS

CHAPTER V
THE LADDER

PAOB

Construction of the ladder— Its success — Its design — Date
at which fish ascend — How fish go up — No poaching —
Ladders in general — An angler's fitting memorial . . 50

CHAPTER VI
THE UPPER RIVER

Os Pool — A goosander — Sluggish fish — Abandoned pools —
New pools — Aamot's — Furenaes — Adventure of Captain
K. — Second Fos — The earliest fish — Fish that go down —
S.'s header — Season of 1903 ; its unusual conditions . 67

CHAPTER VII
THE TOP WATER

Above Second Fos — A change of scene — A long lagoon — An
unexpected fish — A trip to Alvaer Fos — Fine scenery —
The Fos pool — A grilse — Sande Fos, and the water below
it — Prawning in Alvaer Fos — Stages and boats . . 83

CHAPTER VIII
OUR NEIGHBOURS

Our house — Its surroundings — Communications— St. John's
Eve — Ancient customs — Emigration — The Vikings —
Housing of the peasants — Their characteristics — Sym-
pathy with the Boers— Norway, Sweden, and Russia —
Sport — Practical views — Poaching — Christian names and
surnames 97

CHAPTER IX
GRILSE

Early run of grilse — Destruction in fjord nets — Net-marks —
Grilse and " gillings" — Figures bearing on their connec-
tion— Sport with grilse . . . . . . .114

CONTENTS xiii

CHAPTER X
TROUT

PAGE

Trout in salmon rivers — In the mountain lakes and rivers —
Faemund So — Jotunfjeldene — Thelemarken — Trout fish-
ing on a commercial basis — Brown trout in tidal waters —
Sea-trout — Otters — A protected industry — Seals , . . 123

CHAPTER XI
FLIES

Variety of types — Standard patterns used in Norway — Lars'
views — Flies for the river— Size — Fly-tying — Authorities :
Hale and other writers — Hooks — Improvements in fishing
tackle — Fishing in practice — Our independence . . 135

CHAPTER XII
NORWEGIAN FISHING, OLD AND NEW

Records of early sport — Belton's "Two Summers in Norway"
—The Namsen — Condemnation of the Laerdal River —
Milford — Pessimistic views — Jones's " Guide to Norway,"
1848 — Lloyd's " Scandinavian Adventures" — Growth of
exclusive rights — Speculation in rivers — Foreigners and
Norwegian law — Chicanery — Modern conditions . . 148

INDEX 1C5

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE RIVER'S MOUTH
THE LOWER STREAM
LARS

Fos AT OSEN
THE LADDER
SECOND Fos .
ALVAER Fos .
COAT OF ARMS
AAMOT'S POOL
A TROUT LAKE
A ROCKY POOL

Frontispiece

To face page 15

j) >} ^3

46

«*
75

84

page 99
To face page 114
126
146

» »

THE LADDER

PLAN

To face page 59

XV

A RIVER OF NORWAY

CHAPTER I

THE RIVER GAULA

" Child of the bright and stainless snow."

— STUART, Lays of the Deer Forest.

IT rises among the western outposts of the
biggest snow-field in Europe, and runs a course
of perhaps fifty miles to the head of the fjord.
It drains an area of about 250 square miles, and
like most rivers of Western Norway, is almost
wholly dependent for its head of water on the
summer melting of the winter's snows. Mid-
way in its career it forms two great lakes,
respectively ten and fifteen miles long, which
serve the double purpose of equalising its flow,
and of raising the temperature of the water
through the exposure of a large surface to the
air. Its lower course is broken by several falls
or rapids, one of which, some twelve miles from
the tidal water, finally bars the upward run of
salmon. The lowest fall, fifty feet high, is

A

2 A RIVER OF NORWAY

situate a third of a mile from the mouth of the
river. Salmon were unable to ascend it until
thirty years ago, when a fish-pass or ladder was
constructed which gave them access to the
upper waters. The water below this fall is
affected by the tide, but in summer, at all
events, the force of the stream is always suffi-
cient to maintain a downward current, though
the level is constantly altering as the tide rises
and falls. The extreme rise of the tide at the
foot of the fall is, at spring tides, about five
feet.

The fjord, or sea-loch, into the head of which
the river runs is about twenty miles long. It
is, as usual, guarded at its entrance by a number
of small islands, the total distance from the
river's mouth to the open sea being perhaps
twenty-five miles.

The country which the river drains is com-
posed of a hard rock, with very little soil.
This fact, combined with the filtering process
it undergoes in the great lakes, causes the
water almost always, even in the highest floods,
to be of a gin-like transparency ; a result which
from an angler's point of view has its draw-
backs as well as its advantages.

THE RIVER GAULA 3

As a salmon river it is not in the first class.
Its fish, if fairly numerous, are not large ; the
conformation of the bed of the river renders a
good deal of the water comparatively useless
for angling purposes ; and the numerous falls,
though they have been skilfully circumvented
by fish-passes, cause the fishing above the tidal
water to be precarious and uncertain. In the
best of recent seasons it has yielded to two
rods in June and July 150 salmon and as
many grilse. The heaviest fish we have killed
scaled 32 Ib. The average weight of salmon is
13£ Ib., of grilse 3f Ib. These modest figures,
though they do not compete writh the bags made
on some Norwegian waters, will nevertheless
betoken to the discerning eye a sufficiency of
the joys and the disappointments, the tremors
and the triumphs, which go to make up
" sport." In two respects we have cause for
congratulation. The fish when they will take
anything, will take the fly. They have not yet
been debauched by the constant use of prawns,
minnows, spoons, and such unhappy engines,
which as we read with horror have ruined finer
streams.

Further, it is by casting, and not by harling

4 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the fly, that we kill our fish. In many of the
great Norwegian rivers, and especially in those
of the far North, casting is out of the question.
In those mighty waters you may fish a pool all
day, and never succeed in showing the fly to
a fish. And so the method is adopted of row-
ing a boat backwards and forwards across the
pool, each time a little lower down, with the
fly or bait hanging behind the boat, until the
whole of the water is covered. There is skill
in doing this properly, but it is the boatman's,
not the angler's. His function is confined to
beguiling the time with a book, or his thoughts,
until a fish strikes. And so, though he plays
the fish when hooked, he misses what some
regard as the supremest moment in the whole
range of sport — the rise of a good fish to a well-
thrown and well-worked fly. To many men
of an active disposition such a procedure for
any length of time is intolerable.

As early in the morning of June 1, 1903, we
steam up the fjord on the little steamer which
we have chartered for the journey of a hundred
miles from Bergen, to fish the river for the sixth
year in succession, we anxiously scan the higher
hills. Extraordinarily heavy snows are said to

THE RIVER GAULA 5

have fallen during the past winter. Such re-
ports are disseminated by persons who have
a pecuniary interest in the prospects of the
angling season, and it is always possible that they
may have taken a rose-coloured view. But on
this occasion it is evident they have not erred.
As we leave the region of the outer fjords
with their low bare islands, and enter a land
of loftier hills and birch-girt cliffs, we find all
the higher summits still snow-clad ; and on
the northern slopes, which the sun has yet
hardly reached, there are great masses of snow
extending far down among the trees. There
has been a spell of hot weather for the last
week ; yesterday in Bergen the heat was that
of London in the dog-days ; and all the little
becks and rills are coming down in flood. It
is evident that we shall have to deal with a
big river. Other things being equal, a bigger
river as a rule means better sport. So we look
forward to a good year, and begin to talk of
fish in terms of thousands of pounds. It is
the habit of mankind

"To swallow gudgeons ere they're catched,
And count the chickens ere they're hatched."

As we round the last headland and approach

6 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the river's mouth, the great fall comes into
view — white, splendid, translucent — a tum-
bling mass of foaming water; showing that
the river is, as we expected, in very high flood.
To the right lies the little group of dwellings
composing the hamlet of Osen, conspicuous
among them our house with its orchard and
garden, the former not yet in bloom.

We learn on landing that in spite of the late-
ness of Spring — in some years the orchard is in
full bloom on June 1st — salmon began run-
ning very early this year. A party of Nor-
wegians from Bergen usually fish here in May,
their enterprise being seldom rewarded with
many fish. This year they are said to have
killed fifteen; one a 30-pounder, as early as
May 6th. It is possible that in many Nor-
wegian rivers which are not (officially) fished
until early in June, fish run much sooner than
is commonly supposed by the English lessees.
But there can be no doubt that for this dis-
trict this river is very early. The cause is to
be found perhaps not only in its comparative
proximity to the open sea, the fish having to
make a shorter fjord journey than to most
rivers of its size, but in the fact that the water

THE RIVER GAULA 7

is warmed in the great lakes already men-
tioned. I find to-day that the temperature of
the water is 46*5° Fahrenheit, the coldest I
have registered. It is usually from 48° to 50°
on the 1st of June.

The tidal water below the great Fos will
occupy our entire attention for at least three
weeks, possibly for longer. The date at which
any large number of fish ascend to the upper
waters is very variable, and though stray fish
have been observed in the ladder early in June,
it is usually the end of the month, and some-
times it is July, before there is any great run.
This fishing in the tideway, though it has been
termed by a caviller " sea fishing," has many
points of interest and attraction. The fish
killed are nearly all fresh-run, they take the
fly well and freely, and they fight with a vigour
and dash which I have not found paralleled
elsewhere. " They make themselves very big
for their size," it has been said. The water
consists of three pools, two being side by side
and the third below. As the river comes over
the Fos, it divides into two streams. The two
pools below are separated by a rocky island,
covered at high water, but under ordinary con-

8 A RIVER OF NORWAY

ditions appearing at about half tide. The
greater bulk of the river is on the right bank,
forming a magnificent pool called " Lervik,"
from its being part of the property of that
name. The left stream makes what we know
as "Ladder Pool," because the entrance to the
artificial ladder is immediately above it at the
side of the Fos. Lervik is fished chiefly from
a boat, the water inshore being not very suit-
able for wading. The outside of Ladder Pool
is also fished from a boat, but the greater
portion of it can be reached from the shore or
wading, and it is then known to us as "The
Bank." The two pools join at a distance of
about two hundred yards from the Fos, form-
ing a deep hole in which fish may lie, but are
very seldom killed. At this point on the left
bank is a little group of warehouses, with a
quay, to which come ancient vessels of almost
prehistoric lines, to load cargoes of firewood
and herring barrels for the Bergen market.
Below this is a long stretch of smoothly run-
ning water in which the stream is almost
obliterated at high tide. This we call "The
Lower Stream" when fished from a boat on
the right side, and "The Lower Bank" if

THE RIVER GAULA 9

the angler wades from the left shore, as is
possible.

Some years ago, before our tenancy com-
menced, an article on this river appeared in an
English newspaper. The writer, among other
inaccuracies, stated that the tidal water was
so salt as to rot a gut cast, and that it was
necessary to use wire. Herr Landmark, the
Chief Fishery Inspector of Norway, was here a
year or two ago, and he told me that he had
frequently taken samples of the water at
different depths, and at different states of the
tide, from the neighbourhood of the quay
before mentioned, and that he had found no
trace of salt. His object was to ascertain
whether salmon could spawn in this water, to
which before the construction of the ladder
they were confined; a small quantity of salt
being fatal to the ova. As regards the state-
ment about gut, I am not aware whether salt
water rots it or not, but I have used the
same cast for two consecutive seasons in this
water, and killed several hundredweight of
fish with it, and it has exhibited no sign of
rottenness.

Before our first visit, having little experience

10 A RIVER OF NORWAY

of fishing in tidal water, I sought counsel of
certain ancient anglers. One said, " You will
catch them about the half flood ; you will find
the ebb is no good." Another said, " You will
find the flood is no good ; you will catch them
about the half ebb." Happily both were wrong
and both right. Fish take with perfect im-
partiality whether the tide is flowing or ebbing.
Indeed, they have been killed at all states of
the tide, including the two extremes, high and
low water. But the hour or two on each side
of the half tide is the accepted time ; and
perhaps on the whole the ebb is to be pre-
ferred, as one can continue fishing the pools
again and again as long as fish take, whereas
the water tends to become too heavy an hour
or so after the half flood. At low water, unless
the river is very big, the pools become too
small to hold many fish ; and it is a never
solved problem what becomes of them. Usu-
ally I believe the majority run for the deep
holes immediately under the Fos, from which
as the tide rises they drop back to the pools
again. But when the Fos is very heavy, or
the water exceptionally cold, there can be little
doubt that they drop back to the Lower Stream

THE RIVER GAULA 11

or even to the fjord. At such a time the
Lower Stream fishes well.

There are of course four periods in the
twenty-four hours when the water is at half-
tide, and most suitable for fishing. There have
been occasions when all these four half-tides
have been fished, but usually we find three
fishings in the twenty-four hours quite as
much as we want, the tide between 3 A.M.
and 9 A.M. being omitted.

Under ordinary conditions Lervik Pool is far
the best. Indeed, it would perhaps be difficult
to find a piece of water of its size affording
such continuous and consistent sport. It is
here that our heaviest fish are killed, and though
the other pools may have their turn for a day
or two, it is always easily first in the season's
records.

As only a portion of the tail can be satis-
factorily fished wading, it is almost invariably
fished from a boat. To enable the angler to
reach the best water, the boat must be rowed
in a strong stream, which is a severe trial to
the boatman. I have often thought that a punt
held by two men with poles, such as is used on
the Shannon, would answer extremely well, but

12 A RIVER OF NORWAY

it is hopeless to try to teach the Norwegians
such a novel practice, and to import Irishmen
might bring discord into this peaceful valley.
Not only has the boatman to struggle with the
stream, but he must avoid the backwater ; once
sucked into the raging white water below the
Fos, the boat and its occupants would be no
more seen. Of boatmen we have two, of
different generations and types. Lars, the
elder, is a very old man, considerably over
eighty years of age. He lives in a little hut by
the Lower Stream, and has acted as fisherman
on this water for forty years. How he contrives
to hold a boat in Lervik stream is a marvel ;
probably it is more by skill than by strength,
as he knows and takes advantage of every little
eddy and backwash. He is a cheerful old man,
fond of his jest, but if sport is adverse quickly
yielding to the pessimism of age. If you
don't hook a fish in the first ten minutes he is
inclined to think it is no good going on. Last
year he was obviously beginning to fail, and
it is no surprise, and in some ways a relief, to
find on arriving this year that he has decided
to retire. He has finished game ; he tried to
row for a Norwegian who was fishing here in

THE RIVER GAULA 13

May, but had to give up through sheer in-
ability. He does not appear to have had any
medical attendance, and probably old age is
his chief complaint. He can stroll about on
the banks, and will no doubt beguile his leisure
by criticising freely the performances of his
successors.

Our other man, Anders, is not much more
than half Lars' age. He is a typical example
of the Norwegian peasant, brusque in manner,
resourceful in difficulty, untiring when he sees
the smallest chance of success. He knew little
of fishing, other than harling a minnow, when
I first engaged him; but he rapidly mastered
our methods, and with his assistance I have
created pools, built piers to fish from, cut down
obnoxious trees, and otherwise improved the
angling of the upper waters. His own property
of Furenaes lies a couple of miles up the valley,
above the pool of " Second Fos," hereafter to
be described ; and, like most of these peasant
proprietors, he can turn his hand to almost any-
thing ; he could probably build one a house,
or a boat, or a pair of boots — all moderately
well.

As a substitute for Lars, he engages for us

14 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the services of another Anders, Anders Osen ;
a colourless individual of no special merits, but
with some slight experience of angling. We
suspect the original Anders of unwillingness
that any one of striking ability should stand
too near the throne.

CHAPTER II

SALMON

" The salmon, monarch of the tide."

— 5S.Aiorj.ETT, LWH Water.

THE Norwegian Spring is characterised by an
extraordinary exuberance of vitality. One week
it is winter, the next all nature springs to life.
It may almost be compared with the bursting
forth of vegetation on the South African veldt
when the first Spring rains come, and in a
night the burnt-up plains are covered with a
mantle of green grass. Here, contrasting with
the dazzling whiteness of the snow-clad hills,
and of the foaming torrents which descend
from them, the valley floor is rich in colour.
In the hayfields the sorrel is reddening, rival-
ling in brightness its neighbour the Ragged
Robin ; while every sandy slope is purple with
wild pansies. We are spared the pest of rivers
farther north, where with the return of Spring
the mosquito rises in clouds to vex the fisher-
man. From another plague we are also happily

16 A RIVER OF NORWAY

free. Our scenery is, to our eyes at least,
passing fair ; but it is not of the sensational
order which attracts the tourist and the hotel-
keeper; and our excellent roads lead to no-
where in particular. So we are secure from
the contemplation of that " unlovely exhibi-
tion of high spirits " which too often marks the
tripper, and sometimes makes the quiet Eng-
lishman blush for his race in Bergen and on
the tourist routes. No doubt such visitors
bring money into the country, but it is im-
possible not to sympathise with educated
Norwegians who deplore that the most beau-
tiful spots in the land are vulgarised.

But to our Salmon. It is now, early in
June, that fish really begin to run in any
number, As we have seen, a few come in
May, but they are only the scouts of the great
army. On the whole, perhaps, the fish that
run now are the bigger ones, but there is no
very marked difference in this respect. At
this time our sport is often very good, but it
is very uncertain. It is quite possible to see
no fish one day and to kill half-a-dozen the
next. So I remember it happened two years
ago. We had a blank day, an unusual mis-

SALMON 17

fortune, on June the 6th. There seemed to be
no salmon in the pools, and the only fish we
saw was one in the ladder, a very early date
for him to be there. On the 7th we fished
the flood-tide in the morning and the ebb in
the afternoon with similar lack of sport. Our
men fell back on their time-honoured excuse
—a north wind. But with the night flood
came a run of fish, and the north wind was
forgotten. We began at 11 P.M., it being my
turn to fish Lervik, while my companion D.
waded from The Bank. I mounted a Silver
Wilkinson, a very conspicuous fly by reason
of the Jungle Cock in its wings. At the
second or third cast a fish jumped, or seemed
to jump, over my line ; so at any rate there
was a fish in the pool. A few casts more and
I was fast in a fish, a small salmon of 12 lb.,
which was soon upon the bank. Back again
to the head of the pool, where in a minute
or two another fish takes the fly. A bigger
one this, and a lively fellow too. Down he
goes, and across the broad tail of the pool,
jumping two or three times like a great sea-
trout. There is an ancient superstition handed

down from one angler to another, and copied

B

18 A RIVER OF NORWAY

(like many another fallacy) from old books
into new, that when a fish jumps, the point
of the rod must be smartly lowered and
the line in consequence dropped loose on the
water, in order that (as is supposed) there
may be no sudden jerk or strain when the
fish re-enters the river. This practice may be
ail very well in a lake, or in still pools, but in
swift running streams it is a fatal error. The
stream at once catches the slack line and forms
a bag or belly of it, and when the strain comes,
it is against the dead pull of the water. On
the other hand, if the rod is held weU up, as
it almost always should be in playing a fish,
its natural pliancy will prevent any sudden
jerk on the fish's return to the water, and
there will probably be a restoration of the
status quo ante. Well, at any rate, a fish that
jumps soon "breaks his heart or the hold,"
and it does not take many minutes to bring
this one to bank. And a fine fellow he is,
scaling fully 20 lb., sleek and shining, and
sprinkled with sea-lice. Meantime on The
Bank D. has hooked a 17-pounder, and dis-
daining the assistance of the gaff has dragged
it high and dry on to the shore. This is

SALMON 19

a favourite practice of D.'s ; he once beached
a 30-pounder on a Scotch river, and the
habit has become inveterate. It certainly has
its attractions ; the angler owes nothing to
extraneous aid ; the victory is his and his
alone—

" With yielding hand,

That feels him still, yet to his furious course
Gives way, you, now retiring, following now
Across the stream, exhaust his idle rage,
Till, floating broad upon his breathless side,
And to his fate abandoned, to the shore
You gaily drag your unresisting prize."1

Again I return to the head of Lervik, and
again the Wilkinson proves its attractiveness.
But this time I am not to have it all my own
way. The fish, a bigger one than either I
have killed, takes down the pool, turns sharply
into the slack water on the other side and then
runs for the Fos. If he gets to the top of the
island which I have mentioned as lying be-
tween the two pools, he will turn past it into
a deep hole between it and the fall, and will
probably cut my line against the jagged rocks
at the corner. This is what happens. His
sharp turn from the stream into the slack

1 James Thomson, "The Seasons" — Spring.

20 A RIVER OF NORWAY

water, has put a bit of a belly into my line,
and I am unable to get a steady pull at him
until too late. As he passes the fatal rock,
my line comes back to me minus the ex-
cellent Wilkinson and a yard of gut. But we
learn by suffering, and the next big fish that
shows any tendency to run up into that mael-
strom, will find that he is being held very
tight indeed. As a rule the fish that en-
deavour to make for the deep holes under the
Fos are fish that have been there already ;
the absolutely fresh-run fish show, on the
other hand, an inclination to run back to the
fjord which they have just quitted. It is now
between twelve and one, the darkest hour of
the night, if it can be called dark when one
can see to tie a fly on. So I put up a big
Black Doctor, which as a night fly in clear
weather I have found unequalled. Half-way
down the pool I am into another, which
makes a magnificent head-and-tail rise as he
takes the fly. This, to my mind, is the
supreme moment of angling ; to see a big fish
rise over, and come down upon the fly, and
after a moment of intense suspense, during
which one must restrain the inborn longing

SALMON 21

to strike, to feel that he is hooked. And
well-hooked he usually is under the circum-
stances. For a second or two the fish does
nothing, as is commonly the way of big fish.
Then, with an irresistible rush, he goes down
and across the pool, taking fifty yards from
my reel as though there were no check to it.
As I scramble ashore from the boat, the
backing of my line feels uncomfortably thin.
Back he comes at me almost as quickly as he
went away, then down again into the deep
water. A terrible jiggering ensues, and my
knees knock together in excitement and terror
that he will escape. And so the fight goes
on. When at length his strength is spent and
he is towed into the quiet water under the
bank, poor old Lars can hardly see in the
treacherous light to put the gaff into him ; but
the habit of years comes to his assistance, and
the deed is successfully done. A fine, fresh-
run 26-pounder he is. Such fish are, I be-
lieve, for strength and courage the perfection
of salmon-kind.

The tide is now too high to continue, and
we cross over to The Bank, in time to see D.
land a fish of 19 Ib.

22 A RIVER OF NORWAY

Many such "Days and Nights of Salmon
Fishing" live in the memory. It is strange
how occasionally fish will have the fly, regard-
less of their brethren having been hooked and
escaped, or been hooked and killed, before their
eyes. On a June night in the great fishing
season of 1900, I stood beside C., as he fished
from The Bank, and for a time a fish rose every
cast he made. Some merely gave a "pull,"
others were hooked and lost, others were played
and killed ; but still as the fly came round a
fish came at it. It was at 4 A.M. and the sun
was coming over the hill, and the ebb-tide had
fallen almost to low water. The fish were
lying in only three or four feet of water, and for
some unknown reason were madly on the take.
C. was dropping from fatigue, and could hardly
hold his rod up to play the last, an 18-pounder,
which ran wildly for the Fos. But such occa-
sions, to be marked with a white stone, are few
and far between.

In the long run, our best sport has been had
at night. Major Traherne's theory that fish do
not take well in the small hours of the morning
does not hold good here. But fish will fre-
quently take in the daytime, especially before

SALMON 23

noon, and in the brightest sun. A small Silver
Grey or Silver Doctor is then the most killing
fly. Our record fish was killed on a Silver
Grey on a bright day, about noon. On a dark
day we have found the Jock Scot invincible.
The worst time undoubtedly is late in the after-
noon, when the sun is shining directly up the
river, but I have known fish take even then.

The angler's ambition is ever to kill a really
big fish, but it is not always the biggest fish
that fight most pluckily for their lives. I met
with an instance of this a few years ago when
fishing the Sundal River. It was clearing after
a spate; the previous day it had been too big
and too dirty for sport. By the side of a strong
running stream I hooked a fish, but until he
was on the shore I had no suspicion of his size.
He was extremely sluggish, and seemed averse
to going out into the stream, and never, I
think, took out five yards of line. Within six
minutes of my hooking him he drifted close
to the bank, when my gillie put the gaff into
him and dragged him ashore. Then we saw
to our surprise and delight that he was a great
fat cock fish ; and they were increased when
we found that he actually scaled 42 Ib. I was

24 A RIVER OF NORWAY

fishing with single gut and a medium sized
Jock Scot, and with the river as it was the
odds were on the fish, if he had only played
the game. It is possible that he had been
travelling and was tired. I have met with
similar instances of dull fish in our upper waters
here ; but in the tidal water we are not troubled
with such sluggards, and I do not remember
to have killed a fish in it which did not make
a creditable fight.

Our anticipations of a good year, based on
the big river and the great reserve of snow,
seem, as June is passing away, hardly likely to
be realised. The conditions are quite abnormal.
The river is unusually high, and the water un-
usually cold. Fish run into Lervik and Ladder
Pools, but they do not seem to lie there. Nor do
I think that they frequent the great holes under
the Fos, and there is no run of fish up the
ladder. Some are lying in the Lower Stream,
and others I believe return with the ebb-tide
to the fjord, whence they will doubtless run up
again when the conditions alter. There do not
seem to be many fish, certainly far fewer are
to be seen jumping than usual. At such times
sport is uncertain and the element of luck plays

SALMON 25

a great part. In normal times one rod will
probably have very much the same sport as
the other, but when fish are few or coy, it is
all a matter of fortune. So it was one day soon
after our arrival. We began at 8 A.M. on the
ebb-tide. C., usually a most successful angler,
tried an "Eagle" in the still water from the
Lower Bank. It was an old fly, and the gut
loop must have been rotten, for as a fish took
it, it broke. Fortune does not readily forgive
such a waste of opportunity, and not another
rise did poor C. get the whole day. For me, it
was a day of days. On the morning ebb I
killed three fish in Lervik, 13, 12, and 22 Ib. ;
on the afternoon flood, wading from the Lower
Bank, three, of 15, 13, and 12 Ib., and when I
went out again to fish Lervik on the evening
ebb, by all the rules the best chance of the
twenty-four hours, it looked as though I
might break all records. But it was not to
be. Lervik was drawn blank, and I was be-
ginning to despair when I got a 16-pounder in
a backwater at the head of the Lower Stream,
where we very seldom cast a fly. So I had
seven fish, weighing 103 Ib., and the strangest
and luckiest part of it was, that I did not, to

26 A RIVER OF NORWAY

my knowledge, rise another. It is not often
thus.

But who may say with any confidence that
he has not risen a fish ? Beneath that rippling
surface which the eye cannot penetrate, things
happen you have no idea of. Fish from
a high rock over a smoothly running pool,
and you may see salmon after salmon come
up to within a few inches of the fly, and turn
down again without showing any sign on the
surface. And on what insufficient grounds do
we often assert that there isn't a fish in the
pool ! There is a story that the lessee of a
certain river in this district complained to the
owner that he had not seen a fish for days, and
that he was sure there was not one in the whole
water. " We will net the best pool, and see,"
said the owner. They did so, and took out
thirty-six salmon. "You see there are plenty
of fish," said the Norwegian. "There were,"
replied the Englishman, " but what is the good
of my fishing now ? " " Oh ! there are plenty
more ; shall we try again ? " suggested the owner.
And this time the haul was twenty -three fish.
There is a moral in this story.

The salmon is a river fish ; he is born in

SALMON 27

the river, in the river he spends his early youth,
he procreates his young, and sometimes he
dies. The food obtainable in the river is
quite insufficient to support him, and there-
fore he goes to the sea for his living, as some
of our East Coast people go to the Dogger
Bank. When from the abundant spoil of the
sea he has stored up sufficient nutriment to
support him for a while in the foodless river,
he returns thither ; and during this visit to
his birthplace frequently performs the functions
ordained for the reproduction of his kind. That
this process is not his main, or sole, object in
revisiting his home seems clear from his migra-
tion frequently taking place many months before
the season of spawning.

The return of the salmon from the sea to
the river is admirably described in some lines
by Mr. Stephen Gwynn :—

" As the shining salmon, homeless in the sea-depths,

Hears the river call him, scents out the land,
Leaps and rejoices in the meeting of the waters,

Breasts weir and torrent, nests him in the sand ;
Lives there and loves ; yet with the year's returning

Rusting in his river, pines for the sea,
Sweeps back again to the ripple of the tideway,

Hoamer of the waters, vagabond and free."

28 A RIVER OF NORWAY

The question whether salmon feed in fresh
water, which has excited much acrimonious
controversy, turns on the definition of the
word "feed." Certainly adult salmon do not
eat enough food in rivers to support life, be-
cause it is not there; and the race of salmon
has accordingly learnt to find its sustenance
elsewhere. But that they more or less eagerly
take into their mouths such edible morsels as
come in their way is a fact on which the
angler's practice is based. A Scottish College
of Physicians has somewhat hastily assumed
that salmon do not feed in fresh water, because
their stomachs after death are collapsed and
shrunken ; but a plea that his digestive organs
were out of order would seem a weak defence
for a salmon charged with taking a prawn into
his mouth with intent to devour it.

I believe the actual fact to be this, and I
know many anglers will support my view,
that fresh-run fish, not yet thinking of spawn-
ing, and kelts, which have completed the
process, will feed greedily on such food as they
can find ; but that fish, when preparing for
the spawning season, do undergo a physiological
change which renders them unable or unwilling

SALMON 29

to digest food. The examination of the more
or less decomposed stomachs of such fish in
a laboratory cannot for a moment be held to
settle the general question, or to overbear the
repeated experiences of practical fishermen. An
ounce of fact is worth a ton of theory.

The kindred question — " Why does a salmon
take a fly ? " has been much discussed among
anglers. It is frequently maintained that he
does so out of curiosity, or even annoyance.
It seems much less far-fetched to suppose that
he does it from the motive which leads him
to take a prawn, a minnow, or a worm. This
can hardly be curiosity, and is, as I believe,
the desire and intention to eat it. A properly
fished fly presents a remarkable resemblance to
a living object, and if a salmon has not pre-
viously been in the habit of eating such an
object, and does not exactly know its nature,
it need not appear the less tempting to him.
It is not always curiosity that impels a man
to help himself to an entree, the composition of
which is unknown to him.

The supporters of the curiosity theory have
usually drawn a picture of the fish being almost
worried into taking a fly by the manner of its

30 A RIVER OF NORWAY

darting to and fro over their heads. Such a
picture is Mr. Abel Chapman's inimitable
account (in his "Wild Norway") of a salmon
rising to a Jock Scot. But all anglers are
familiar with occasions on which a fish has
snapped at the fly the instant it was presented
to him ; and it is difficult to avoid the con-
clusion that such fish are on the look-out for
something to eat, and mean to have anything
which looks tasty.

The excellent Pontoppidan, Bishop of Bergen,
who wrote in 1751 " The Natural History of
Norway," has some remarks on the salmon,
which show that 150 years ago men were
already perplexed as to the salmon's food. I
quote from the English translation of his work,
a fine old folio published in London in 1755.

" The Lax, Salmon, Salme, a well-known, con-
siderably large, and excellent Fish, has bright
silver scales, but the flesh is red. It is allowed
by all to be one of the most delicious and best-
tasted Fish ; however, the physicians do not
reckon it wholesom, when it is eaten fresh, in
too great a quantity.

"As the Salmon is not fond of biting at a
bait, and there is seldom any Fish found in its

SALMON 31

belly, some are inclined to think that (as it is
said of the Herrings) it lives upon water alone,
and that this renders its flesh so delicate : but
this opinion is refuted by Willoughby. He
says, ' Mr. Johnson assures me that the Salmon
is fond of fine red worms, when they are thrown
into the water, but I shall not determine this
point. I shall only observe, that, as the Lord of
Nature, who has created nothing in vain, has
given the Salmon good teeth, we may conclude
the former opinion is without foundation ; for it
were absurd to say they were given them only
for weapons, to defend themselves against Fish of
prey. I am to observe also, that one of my
correspondents affirms, that he has found small
Herrings in a Salmon's belly : nay, though the
Salmon is but seldom disposed to bite at the
hook, yet he will sometimes do it.' '

Pontoppidan held the opinion still asserted
by some Norwegians who own fjord-nets, that
" The Salmon unquestionably breeds in the sea,
tho' it is not entirely to be deny'd but that
they may sometimes breed in rivers also." He
says they " seek the rivers, partly to refresh
themselves in fresh water, and partly to rub, or
wash off in the strong currents, and deep water-

32 A RIVER OF NORWAY

falls a kind of greenish vermin, called Salmon-
lice, that get in between their fins, and plague
them in the Spring Season. These insects are
wisely designed by the Great Creator, to drive
this rich and valuable Fish, as it were, into the
hands of mankind, who use several arts to catch
them."

CHAPTER III

LARS

" Some smack of age in you, some relish of the saltness of Time."

— SHAKESPEARE, Henry IV., part 2.

LARS is dead. He died on Sunday last, and has
been buried to-day, Saturday, June 27th. His
end was swift and merciful. Two or three
days before he was strolling about and watching
the fish leap opposite his cottage by the Lower
Stream. On Sunday afternoon he was sitting
up, but saying that he felt cramp he went to
bed and died within an hour. His son, the
local shoemaker, told me that he was close on
eighty-six, and from other sources I learn that
this is correct.

I attended his funeral this morning. A more
touchingly simple and primitive ceremony could
not be imagined. The absence of a professional
undertaker saves these poor peasants from the
vulgarities which beset funerals in towns. The
distance to the churchyard is about three miles

by road. The coffin, decked with simple flowers

c

34 A RIVER OF NORWAY

and sprigs of fir, was driven on one of the long
carts of the country, and the relations and
friends followed, some on foot, others in stol-
kjaere. I expected to find the priest waiting
at the church ; but it was not so. Lars died
without the assistance of a doctor, and was
buried without benefit of clergy.1 At the head
of the procession drove two men, known to me
by sight as ordinary peasants, who at intervals
raised a lugubrious chant. Arrived at the
churchyard our horses were tied to the railings
and we followed the coffin, borne by our two
fishermen and two other neighbours, into the
church. This is a bare wooden shed, with no
decoration save a highly painted wooden altar,
on which were laid the priest's vestments. The
men sat on one side of the aisle, the women
on the other. The latter were all clad in dark
clothes, on their heads the decent shawl which
is so seemly, and is unhappily giving place to
a travesty of the fashionable hat; the men in
their dark blue homespun suits, which give

1 I have since learnt that the priest on his next visit to the
church says prayers over the graves of those who have been in-
terred since he was last there. Considering the enormous extent
of his parish, which contains four churches, of which the furthest
is twenty-eight miles from this, it would be impossible for him to
attend all funerals. Service is held in each church once a month.

LARS 35

them at all times a somewhat sombre aspect.
The only exception was our Anders, who
thought it fitting to appear in a light brown
check suit, which I had recently given to him.
Probably the magnificence of this attire was
held to compensate for its incongruous hue.

The two men who had chanted on the road
proceeded to conduct the service, which was
short, in the same manner. The coffin was
then carried to the grave, where there was more
chanting, and when the service was over, the
grave was at once filled with earth, a process
in which, as there did not appear to be any
professional gravediggers, all the men took a
hand in turn. And so Lars was laid to rest ;
so they

" Gave
His body to that pleasant country's earth."

It was rather a shock to English eyes to see
the state of the churchyard. The graves were
covered with rank grass and weeds, and the
iron or wooden crosses erected on many of
them were tumbling in all directions. The
most pretentious tomb, belonging to an old
family still represented here, was in no better
case than the rest. The whole bore an aspect

36 A RIVER OF NORWAY

of gross neglect. It must certainly be the case
that, in a country like this where the church
is only used once a month, and most of the
parishioners live many miles away, it should
play a less important part in their lives than
the church in an English village, but one would
at least expect the priest, who is always a cul-
tivated gentleman, to enjoin on the people a
better care for the graves of their dead.

Lars1 death will leave a sad blank in our lives
here. He was ever ready for and appreciative
of a little joke, and his age gave him a some-
what privileged position. Something of a by-
gone day still clung to him. He was ignorant
and uneducated, a peasant of the lowest class,
speaking a dialect un-Danish enough to satisfy
the most ardent Norwegian patriot ; but there
was a native courtesy in his manner which is
quite wanting in the younger men.

Like many Norwegians he was brimful of
curiosity — as to one's age, pursuits, and the cost
of one's fishing-tackle and belongings. I have
always carefully concealed the real amount of
Messrs. Hardy's account for a split cane rod,
and generally find that ten krone1 passes as a

1 Eighteen krone = £1.

LARS 37

satisfactory reply to the query as to its cost.
To say more would be to lay oneself open to
the suspicion either of extravagance or of lying.

He would always, if it were at all possible,
appear to understand any remarks addressed to
him. " Tempus fugit," said some one. " Ya
ya," said Lars, with a most suitable air of re-
signation, probably judging something of the
meaning from the tone.

In some ways he was what is called "very
human." I told him that I heard Mr. • — ,
who had fished here previously, was having very
poor sport on a certain well-known river. "I'm
glad of it," said Lars, "he owes me thirty
krone."

His contempt for a poor fisherman and for
bad tackle was unbounded and never concealed.
It happened that the first year we were here
an English yacht came up the fjord with a large
party. We dined on board, and during dinner
I mentioned that Lervik Pool would be in order
for fishing about 11 P.M., and that if one of the
party would like to fish, I should be pleased
if he would do so. The young ladies exclaimed,
" Oh ! Mr. Blank is our fisherman, he must go."
Mr. Blank modestly deprecated the honour ; he

38 A RIVER OF NORWAY

said that his experience was confined to trout,
that it had never fallen to his lot to fish for
salmon, and that he doubted his being equal
to the task. But they would take no denial;
and at the time appointed Mr. Blank emerged
from his cabin suitably attired, bringing a rod
and tackle. I did not much like the look of
the latter, and urged him in vain to use mine.
He was rowed by the unwilling Lars to the
head of Lervik Pool, while I stood on the bank,
and almost at the first cast he hooked a fish of
12 or 14 Ib. When he had landed, Lars, who
had the air of washing his hands of the whole
proceeding, said that it was too dark for him
to see to gaff the fish, and that I must do so.
I took the gaff and stood ready by the water's
edge. Mr. Blank had up to this time played
the fish well and carefully, but in one of its
final rushes he allowed the line to come against
my shoulder, and the cast broke and the fish
was gone. Lars took the rest of the cast, which
was a poor one, broke it into small fragments,
threw them on the ground and spat on them
with a gesture of indescribable contempt. I
hope that if this should meet the eye of Mr.
Blank, he will forgive me for publishing his sad

LARS 39

story, and that the death of many salmon to
his rod since then has atoned for the loss of
the first he hooked.

It is a dangerous matter to attempt to gaff
a fish for a friend. An unfortunate stroke may
make an enemy for life ; less has sometimes
originated a blood-feud. A well-known angler
once hooked a very big fish on the Conway,
when unaccompanied by an attendant. Seeing
a neighbour, with whom he was slightly ac-
quainted, leaning over a bridge and watching
the sport, he called out, " Come down, Major,
there's a good fellow, and gaff this fish for me ! "
"No," replied the Major deliberately. "No,
I won't ; I have a wife and family at home."

To rustics unconnected with fishing, who in
any way obtruded their presence, Lars was
anything but polite. At the foot of the Fos,
on each side of the river, are saw-mills, and it
occasionally happens while one is fishing that
men row up boats with logs to be sawn. As a
rule they are considerate and keep close to the
shore, where they do little or no harm, but
Lars never missed an opportunity of letting fly
at them with a torrent of what I understood
to be forcible Norwegian language, and I never

40 A RIVER OF NORWAY

remember one who seemed capable of making
an adequate reply. Before such strangers he
thoroughly enjoyed showing off, and if we killed
a fish or two while they were looking on, he
would always treat it as the most ordinary
occurrence, not worth making a remark about.
He had a rare opportunity of posing in this way
on a certain Sunday evening in June. The
Norwegian Sabbath begins at 6 P.M. on Satur-
day and ends at 6 P.M. on Sunday. Of the
Saturday portion we never take any notice, but
we have always observed the Sunday rest till
6 P.M., and Lars was a stickler for the point. If
you said to him at 5.30, " Lars, the tide is right,
we will begin," he would reply, " Klokken sex."
On this particular Sunday service had been held
at our church in the morning, and many peasants
had come down from the surrounding moun-
tains ; and as it was a nice drizzling afternoon
such as the Norwegian loafer thoroughly enjoys,
a number of people were hanging about to see if
we had any sport. It was a flood-tide, and out
of deference to Lars' scruples we were rather
late in beginning, but there was an hour's fishing
before it became too high. At the head of
Lervik, almost at the first cast, I hooked a fish,

LARS 41

and after a short struggle Lars gaffed him — a
fish of 17 lb. The spectators crowded round ;
Lars threw the fish into the boat without a
word, and held it steady for me to step into.
The process was shortly repeated, this time
with a fish of 13 lb. Never a word said Lars,
and, not wishing to spoil his game, which I saw
by the gleam in his ancient eye he was
thoroughly enjoying, I held my peace. A third
time, almost at the first cast, I hooked a fish.
This one gave more trouble ; we landed on the
Lervik shore, but he ran down into the deep
water at the bottom and went so far over to
the other side, that we judged it quicker to
cross the river in the boat and kill him on the
Lower Bank. He weighed 18 lb. It was
not over yet. The tide was getting too high,
but it was worth trying a final cast. This
time a 14-pounder took the fly, and was duly
killed on the Lervik bank.

It was now seven o'clock, and it had been
sharp work for an hour. Not a sound had Lars
uttered, nor had he looked at me. He threw
the fish as they were killed into the boat, as
a man might throw herrings, and he had an
air of being rather bored. The rustics stood

42 A RIVER OF NORWAY

open-mouthed at a respectful distance, and
doubtless they carried back to their mountain
fastnesses strange tales of the Englishman and
the salmon. If such things were done in an
hour on Sunday afternoon, what must the week
bring forth ? This was, I think, the impression
Lars meant to convey.

His ancient wife survives him ; she was a
little older than her husband. I once said to
him, "I am sorry to hear your wife is sick,
Lars." " She must expect to be sick," he re-
plied, "she is so old." I said, "How old
is she?" "Eighty-five," he answered. "And
how old are you ? " " Eighty -four and a half."
She will continue to reside in the cottage by
the Lower Stream, a lonely life for the poor
old thing. Lars had saved a sum of £70,
and she is considered locally to be "left very
well off."

We only knew Lars in his old age, when
his sight was dim, and cannot therefore judge
whether in his prime he was a good gaffer.
As a rule I have not found Norwegians to
excel in this respect. In spite of the stolidity
of their ordinary demeanour, they seem to
become highly' nervous when it comes to

LARS 43

" clipping " a fish. One excellent fisherman,
in other ways the brightest and most alert of
his race, would do all sorts of eccentric things.
His worst performance was to stick the gaff
into an eighteen-pound fish and then to let
go the handle. Out into the pool again went
the fish, with the hazel stick bobbing along
the surface. Luckily the hook held and it all
ended happily, but I confess that the incident
tried the angler's temper, and that he said hard
things. One brilliant exception I have met,
and if he failed on a certain critical occasion
it was because he essayed a task beyond the
powers of man. I was fishing the Aaro,
perhaps the most remarkable river in Norway.
It is barely a mile from fjord to fos ; it is
almost entirely a foaming torrent, with hardly
a pool that anywhere else would be called a
pool, and yet its fish are the biggest of their
kind. I believe they average at least 25 Ib. ;
at some seasons 30 Ib. Forty-pounders are not
uncommon, and a fish of 68 Ib. was killed there
with a prawn some years ago. (His effigy,
with a fly in its mouth, frequently adorns a
shop window in Pall Mall.) It was in August
of the very hot season of 1901, and the river

44 A RIVER OF NORWAY

was in highest flood and very milky from the
melting of the glacier which it drains. I used
six-ply gut, and felt no certainty then that I
should not be broken. To gaff a fish the gaffer
had to wade into this fearful torrent, and some-
times his life appeared to be more in danger
than the fish's. In a deep backwater called
the Prawn Hole — where the 68-pounder was
killed — I hooked, on a prawn, a fish about
40 Ib. weight. He was a very strong fish, and
after a terrific rush across the main river into
a small pool opposite, he went down stream
about a hundred yards, where he found shelter
behind a rock some distance from the shore.
It seemed difficult to dislodge him from this
post, and even if he were moved he would
probably make down further, when his capture
would be almost hopeless. So my gaffer, in
spite of my objections, waded out into the
torrent up to his waist. Steadying himself as
well as he could, he made a dive at the fish,
and gaffed it. He dragged the fish to the
surface and a fierce struggle ensued ; but he
was powerless to get back to the shore with
it, and had to let it go again. The fish went
down the rapid below, and then the hooks came

LARS 45

away. The poor gaffer, wet through, dead beat
and overcome with chagrin, threw himself on
the ground and uttered — not the wild oaths of
his fierce forefathers — but the word " Damn."
So do we English spread our civilisation over
the face of the globe.

CHAPTER IV

MOKE SALMON

"The cry is still, They come."

— SHAKESPEARE, Macbeth.

THIS year, at the beginning of July, the river
is again in highest flood — as high, at least, as
in the flood of early June. It has been raining
hard for days ; but the flood, though helped by
the rain, is not so much due to it as to the
south wind which has melted the great re-
serves of snow. At Sande, ten miles up the
valley, the water is out on the meadows, and
the pools in the river are obliterated. Below,
it runs within its banks, " brimming and bright
and large"; the falls are foaming races of
white water, with never a trace of the black
rocks which usually emerge from the torrent.
For the last week or more salmon have been
very scarce. There has been a great run of
grilse, and if the water has been suitable for
them, it is difficult to understand why their
elders should have declined to face it. But

46

MORE SALMON 47

the fisherman's path is strewn with unsolved
mysteries. So bad did our prospects appear
that I went so far as to telegraph to H., who
was coming out from England with my wife,
that unless he was content with grilse-fishing,
he had better not come. Of course he came,
but I had relieved my conscience of some of
that responsibility which a host feels for a
guest's sport, and as usual, the unexpected
happened.

It is said by gamblers that to go on a journey
brings luck, and perhaps the fact that I took
a holiday of three days, and went to Bergen
to meet the travellers, wrought a change of
fortune.

It began on the night of our arrival. It was
late, and dark, and the fishermen had gone to
bed ; but it occurred to us that a cast or two
from the Lower Bank might be worth the
trouble. So we put on our waders and went
forth, and commenced to fish close together.
At once I hooked a fish of 15 Ib. or so, which
after a good fight I beached — it was too dark
for gaffing. Scarcely was he on the bank,
when H.'s reel sang to a bigger fish. Down he
went full speed to the fjord, and H. after him,

48 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the sparks flying as the nails in his brogues
clattered on the stones. Alas ! almost at the
point when the river joins the fjord the hook
came away and we were left repining.

For the next few days we killed several fish
a day, not counting the grilse, which as the
salmon came seemed to be less plentiful.
These salmon were all fresh run, but none had
sea-lice. We thought it possible that they
were fish which had run earlier, and being
unable to face the weight of water coming
over the Fos had returned to the fjord —

" The wat'ry herd, affrighted at the roar,
Rest on their fins awhile, and stay,
Then backward take their wond'ring way." l

From some of the rivers farther north we
hear accounts of unusually good sport in the
lowest beats, while in the upper waters it is
below the average. In a year of normal water
and temperature, these lower beats are mostly
of little good, as the fish run through rapidly
to the higher reaches.

We have often wondered what were the
habits of fish here before the ladder enabled
them to reach the upper water. That they came

1 Dry den.

MORE SALMON 49

to the foot of the Fos there is no question ;
although it seems that they were less nume-
rous and smaller than their descendants. It is
hardly likely that many would attempt to
spawn in the tideway. More probably they
returned to the fjord after an exhilarating fresh-
water bath below the foaming fall, and as-
cended some of the smaller streams which run
into it lower down. About the year 1834
Lieutenant Breton, R.N., made an extensive
tour in Norway, and published an account of
it, entitled "Scandinavian Sketches" (London,
1835). He was not an angler, but he is the
only one of the early travellers whom I find
to have visited this place. This is what he says
of it :-

" I passed over to Ousen, the residence of
Mr. Rennord, a clergyman, who pressed me to
remain until the weather became more settled.
Having come upwards of one hundred miles by
water, and being almost cramped to death, his
invitation was accepted ; and nothing could
exceed his kindness and attention. He is the
only gentleman I met in Norway who has
not adopted the practice of smoking, which
he considers, and I coincide with him in opinion,

50 A RIVER OF NORWAY

as one of the greatest of human follies. The
house stands at the head of Dais Fjord, here
very beautiful ; near it is a large waterfall, but
of no great height, beneath which three hundred
salmon were caught the preceding season, and
only four during the last."

We have our good years and our bad years
now, but happily we have not experienced
such an extraordinary discrepancy as this. As
the Norwegians had not yet acquired the art
of fishing with a rod and line, and the few
English sportsmen who had visited the country
at that date had gone farther north, to the
Namsen, the Stenkjaer, or the Gula, these fish
must have been netted. Breton might have
given us further details ; but what can you ex-
pect of a man who neither fished nor smoked ?

In no Norwegian river with which I am
acquainted is there any autumn run of fish,
such as occurs in Scotch rivers. But strag-
glers no doubt run until the end of the season.
The ordinary legal close time begins on Sep-
tember 15, but on many rivers, or on parts
of them, such as on the upper water here,
there is an extension of rod fishing until
September 30. Here the main run is over

MORE SALMON 51

by the middle of July, but occasional fresh-
run fish are caught in August. I once stayed
on another river in Norway until the end
of September ; and then the last fish with
sea-lice was killed on September 16. It was
a small river which fish ascended for four or
five miles only. Half-way up, the river
formed a small lake, not quite a mile long.
In this lake, as the season wore on and the
river fell very low, all the fish collected.
Again and again we trolled various kinds
of minnows over them, but with little result.
At last, in the final week of September, there
came a mighty rain-flood, and the fish ran
up in hordes into the river above. Red, and
black, and thin, and unwholesome-looking as
they were, they took ravenously whatever fly
was offered to them and with more than the
keenness of fresh-run fish. Another problem
to vex the poor angler. On the last day of
the season the river had fallen again and not
a fish was to be seen. Doubtless they had
all returned to the lake.

It is strange how salmon, while really in a
mood for taking, will come again and again
at the fly. In the flood above mentioned, I

52 A RIVER OF NORWAY

rose a fish, unless my memory plays me false,
nine times, and hooked and killed him in the
end. The stream was running very swiftly
under a steep bank, and the salmon and I
were on opposite sides of it. As my fly and
line reached the water they were snatched
by the stream and carried " all anyhow " to
my side. But at each cast a salmon rose half
out of the water, only to have the fly pulled
from him by the devouring torrent. At
length I succeeded by going a little higher
up, and wading out to the utmost limit, in
steadying the fly over him for a second, and
he was mine.

There is nothing in angling more satisfactory
than fishing for, and hooking, a fish which
has already risen and missed, or declined, the
fly. In such a case it is best when wading
to walk up a few yards and fish down again
to the fish rather rapidly. I have known a
fish rise twice at the fly in one cast ; that is,
having missed the fly, to turn round and follow
it and rise at it again ; but this is a very un-
common experience. But in the more usual
procedure, what a tingling of expectation as
we approach the fateful spot ! what joy of

MORE SALMON 53

work well done as we see the auspicious troubl-
ing of the waters, or feel the line tighten
and the rod bend ! what despair as we realise
that we have passed the fish in vain ! Truly,
as Sir Edward Grey writes, " Salmon fishing
is the greatest of all sports, that can be had
in fresh water." There are some who would
omit the latter half of the sentence.

In fishing from a boat, one is not so com-
pletely one's own master ; but on seeing a fish
rise to the fly, I instantly take my bearings
by well-known landmarks, and tell my boat-
man to row up a few yards. If the second
essay prove fruitless, it is best to fish down
to the end of the pool ; and then to rest it
for a few minutes and perhaps try a smaller

%.

On many Norwegian rivers the floating logs
are a terrible trouble to the angler. It is a
common practice to use these waterways as
means of transport to the fjords of the enormous
quantity of timber which is cut in the interior.
The result to fishing is disastrous. The angler
fishing from a boat will frequently feel a
shock, and be thrown off his balance, as a log
strikes the bow. Worse than this, his best

54 A RIVER OF NORWAY

pools may be hopelessly disturbed by an end-
less procession of timber — great trunks dash-
ing together, charging the banks, and jamming
wherever there is any obstruction. We are
not troubled in this way here. There is no
great amount of timber in the rocky valley
above, and such as is cut is sawn up locally
to provide building material, and to make
staves for herring barrels. But we are some-
times annoyed by the sawdust from the mills,
especially in a flood. This not only floats as
a scum on the water, but particles sink to a
depth of several feet, and are believed to
sicken the fish, or to interfere with their
breathing. I have generally found the mill-
owners obliging enough in endeavouring to
stop the nuisance, when the mischief is done ;
but it is difficult to get them to take adequate
precautionary measures. The usual practice is
to build a stone wall below the mill and
within it a sort of zareba of bushes to catch
the sawdust as it falls. But the wall is rarely
built high enough to keep out a very big
flood, and when the water reaches the base
of the pyramid of dust, it washes some of it
away, and the evil is done.

MORE SALMON 55

Sawdust is not our only trouble. The
ancient craft that sometimes come to load at
the wharf, seem to require a great number of
ropes and anchors to keep them steady. Some
of the masters insist on putting a line across
the river and tying it to a rock on the opposite
bank. This rope "jumps" in the stream, and
even if it does not frighten running fish, it
would be a very awkward obstruction in case
of a fish, while being played, going down out
of Lervik or Ladder Pools. Happily this has
never happened when a rope was out ; but if
ever a big one is lost in this way, there will
be trouble. I argued the subject with one
old mariner. I asked if when he went to
Bergen he put a rope across the harbour. He
said " No ; it would be in the way of the
steamers." I replied that my fishing was quite
as important as any number of steamers, and
that the rent exacted from me for it would
buy his old boat and the cargo too ; but he
remained unmoved. I turned to Anders, and
said, " Shall I cut the rope, or shall I go to
law with him ? " " It is best," replied Anders
with much wisdom, "for you to cut the rope,
and let Mm go to law." I contented myself

56 A RIVER OF NORWAY

with untying the rope when I went out to
fish, only to find it put out again on my next
appearance. It is difficult for a stranger to
get at the rights and wrongs of such a case.
I gather that it is necessary for the district
council to pass a bye-law, prohibiting such
obstructions. It does not seem equitable for
a chance comer to be able so to interfere with
the fishery, and the free passage of boats.

Since writing my remarks on salmon feeding
in fresh water,1 I have read a recent American
book, " Salmon and Trout," by Dean Sage and
others (New York, 1902), in which the views
expressed on this question are so similar to my
own, that they appear to me eminently reason-
able. This testimony from the other hemisphere
is the more emphatic as it is based on the ex-
perience of a fly-fisher. The writer states that
in the Atlantic rivers of North America bait
fishing for salmon is almost unknown ; though
he mentions successful experiments with various
lures from a chunk of raw beef to a live butter-
fly. This catholicity of taste brings to mind
the saying of an Irish gillie, that " the salmon
is the hungriest baste that walks the earth."

1 See Chapter II.

MORE SALMON 57

The anglers of the Canadian rivers are to
be congratulated on their freedom from the
vice of bait-fishing to which so many fisher-
men in the British Isles and Norway have given
way. Yet there are not wanting champions to
fight for the true faith ; notably Sir Herbert
Maxwell, who in a recent letter to the Field
deplored the degradation of a well-known tidal
pool in Norway, where the use of prawn and
minnow has entirely superseded fly-fishing, and
it is believed that fish will no longer rise to
the fly. It is a little difficult to understand
why fresh-run fish should be so influenced ; it
seems more probable that the fishermen are
affected rather than the salmon.

What one does, others must do. It needs
a very strong mind to persevere with the fly
in water which is constantly raked with prawn
or gudgeon, and the result is that rivers are
more and more given up to the baser arts. It
is a pity that no such form of taboo as pre-
serves trout in an English chalk stream from the
dangerous attractions of worms and minnows
has grown up with regard to salmon.

The first year we- were here I asked Lars if
salmon were ever killed with the prawn. He

58 A RIVER OF NORWAY

replied unhesitatingly — splendide mendax — that
they would not look at one. I learnt later
that he remarked to Anders that they must
not let us use a prawn, or we should give up
fly-fishing ; and I loved him for his timely
falsehood. With a wisdom all his own, he
gauged the angler's weakness.

Late in the season, when salmon will not
take a fly, or in water which is not suitable
for fly-fishing, I cannot see that there is any
objection to the use of bait. It is only as de-
structive of the finer sport, when and where
possible, that it is to be deplored. And on this
view of the matter we base our practice here.

Attractive as is our tidal water in its vary-
ing moods, and for its sure promise of sport,
we have perhaps in the persistent fishing of
the past month worn it a little threadbare.
Such excursions as we have made to the upper
waters have met with no success, and we
have hurriedly returned to our former haunts,
with the air of men who have survived a
forlorn hope. But unless the habits of fish
have undergone a radical change, they ought
now to be found above the Fos. It is high
time for us to seek pastures new.

G A II L A RIVER

SCALE
jo feet tt< j inch

R-ro(K under mhir.h fixh enter the ladder

CHAPTER V

THE LADDER

" Ah ! who can tell how hard it is to climb ? "

— BEATTIE, The Minstrel.

THE ladder which gives fish access to the river
above the great Fos was constructed about
thirty years ago by an Irish gentleman, who
owned the property of Osen, extending for
about two miles upwards from the mouth of
the river on the left bank, and made contracts
with the other proprietors interested, which
gave him the fishing rights for a long term of
years. It was probably the most important
fish-pass in existence at that period, though it
has since been surpassed by the great Vefsen
ladder, and possibly by others. It has in every
way been most successful. Not only has it
created a salmon fishing river ten or twelve
miles in length, but by opening up excellent
spawning grounds it has vastly improved the
race of fish which had previously frequented
the water below the great Fos. This process,

59

60 A RIVER OF NORWAY

if one may believe the evidence of the oldest
inhabitant, is still continuing.

The obstacle to be circumvented is an almost
sheer fall of fifty or fifty-five feet in height.
To mitigate the steepness of the ascent the
ladder takes a zig-zag course. The entrance
to it is directly from a natural shelf at the
bottom of the Fos, the water on which is at
high-tide level with the pool below. There
are in all sixteen steps, the leaps from one to
the other varying from three to four feet in
height. A few are rather rapids, up which
fish easily swim, than leaps. The little pools
are of different size and shape ; for the most
part the water in them is rough and foaming,
but some have more or less quiet backwaters
in which fish may rest awhile. At the top
is a strongly-built wall running upwards from
the head of the fall and high enough to keep
the river at highest flood out of the ladder ;
and through this fish-pass by one or other of
two hatches, used respectively in big and small
water, into the quiet and deep pool above. The
greater part of the ladder is blasted out of the
rock, the steps being built up with stonework
and baulks of timber; the whole presenting

THE LADDER 61

a very natural appearance, a point of some
importance. Certainly fish do not seem to
have any trouble in discovering it, or to be
afraid of the confined stream in which they
find themselves ; and we have occasionally killed
fresh-run fish in the river above, which must
have come straight through from the fjord with
very little delay.

In most years single fish begin to run up the
ladder early in June, but there is as a rule no
great run until towards the end of the month,
and sometimes it does not occur until July.
Such a run generally takes place when the river
is rising after rain, the temperature of the water
being also higher. But this rule is not invari-
able. I have not yet been able to discover any
law in obedience to which thousands of fish
suddenly take it into their heads to run up.

Below is a list extracted from my Diary of
the earliest dates on which fish have been seen
in the ladder, and those on which there was
any considerable run of fish :—

1898. (No record of the first fish seen, but fish were

certainly in the ladder before June 14.)
„ July 5. — A large number going up.
1899- June 11.— A fish.

62 A RIVER OF NORWAY

1899- July 2. — A great many fish running. The run con-
tinued for two or three weeks.

1900. June 13.— A fish.

„ „ 15-19. — Several fish.
„ July 1. — Many fish.

„ „ 14. — Ladder crowded with fish after heavy
rain.

1901. June 5.— A fish.

„ „ 23. — Numerous fish after continued rain.

1902. June 18. — A large fish.
„ „ 23. — Several fish.

This season there was never any quantity of
fish running, and it was reported to me that in
August and September there were very few in
the river.

1903. June 23. — Some fish.
„ July 4.— A few fish.

„ „ 16. — Ladder very full of fish — a big run, which
lasted without intermission for a fortnight.

This year, 1903, in pursuance of its character
of a very late and entirely abnormal year,
scarcely a fish was to be seen in the ladder
until the middle of July. On the 16th the
run began. There was no apparent cause. The
weather had been cold and the river was falling
slightly every day. Certainly the day itself
was fine and warmer, but the river was not yet
affected. Yet suddenly it was alive with fish.
In the course of the next few days thousands

THE LADDER 63

must have gone up. Where they all came from
was a mystery. Very few had been showing
in the pools below, and sport though good
occasionally had been intermittent. I cannot
avoid the conclusion that numbers of fish which
had come from the fjord in the previous six
weeks had dropped back to it again, until the
atmospheric change — or whatever it was — oc-
curred, which caused them to make for the
upper waters. The run continued without in-
termission until we left at the end of July, but
latterly was composed chiefly of grilse, which
were coming in from the fjord in great numbers
at the time. They were accompanied as usual
by a few salmon ; on the 22nd we killed two,
13 Ib. and 24 lb., with sea-lice. The fine
weather which had set in on July 16 lasted until
the end of the month. The river was daily
higher, and the temperature of the water rose
from 50° to 56°. It looks as if the salmon when
they commenced running on the 16th knew the
conditions which were coming.

When fish are running it is a never-ending
source of amusement to us to watch them.
You may stand by the side of one of the steps
with a crowd of salmon within a few feet of you,

64 A RIVER OF NORWAY

many of them half out of the foaming water.
Sometimes a fish will jump one of the little
falls, and, merely skimming the pool above,
will take the next fall "in his stride." And
a glorious sight it is to see a 20-pounder
making so light of the obstacles. Other fish
seem to have a dislike to jumping, and will
swim up the falls, with much twisting of bodies
and whisking of tails ; a far more toilsome
means of ascending, one would suppose. Others
seem to have no eye for their work, and will
jump short or crooked, and fall back over and
over again. Most of the pools are so built that
it is difficult for a fish to jump right out on to
the rocks, and I have only known one to do
so, and be killed.

Very interesting too is it to stand on the
wall at the top of the ladder and see fish come
through the hatch into the river above. After
the turmoil of the little pools it must be a
startling change to enter the spacious smooth
running river ; and they usually appear to pause
a moment and to contemplate the situation.
Then they sail away majestically into the depths,
and unless we chance to meet them higher up,
are no more seen.

- -V/V -^/f/s/f/s •'/

THE LADDER 65

It is fortunate that the inhabitants here have
no very highly developed taste for poaching. It
would be easy to take hundreds of fish out of
the ladder in a single night. In some countries,
which shall be nameless, it would require at
least four men to guard it, and they would have
to be heavily armed. I am thankful to say
that I have never had the slightest cause for
suspecting any unlawful proceedings on it here.

The best account of salmon ladders in general
which I have found in any work on angling
is contained in " Fishing in American Waters,"
by Genio C. Scott (New York, 1869), an inter-
esting and amusing book. After remarking on
the necessity of admitting salmon to the upper
and shallow portions of rivers, if the race is
to be preserved, the author proceeds to discuss
the conditions under which salmon can leap
up a fall. The main requisite is a sufficiently
deep pool below, in which to attain, by means
of a run, enough impetus and velocity. The
absence of this sometimes makes a mill-dam only
three or four feet in height impassable. The
provision of sufficient water to take off in for
each leap is really the main factor in the success

of a ladder ; and it has been well carried out

E

66 A RIVER OF NORWAY

in our ladder here. Mr. Scott gives some par-
ticulars and illustrations of different ladders
in America and elsewhere. Perhaps the most
interesting is the well-known salmon pass at
Ballisodare, in the west of Ireland.

An article entitled " Salmon Passes," by
A. F. Bruce, A.M.I.C.E., may be found in
the Transactions of the Civil and Mechanical
Engineers Society, 1887-88, and should be con-
sulted by any one anxious to ascertain the
conditions and cost of a successful ladder.

If "whoever could make two ears of corn,
or two blades of grass, to grow upon a spot
of ground where only one grew before" would
deserve well of mankind, then no less merito-
rious is the man who has peopled a useless river
with the noble race of salmon. To the enter-
prise and ingenuity of the Irishman who planned
and built it, this ladder of the river Gaula, in
Norway, is a lasting memorial.

CHAPTER VI

THE UPPEK HIVER

<e To waft a feather, or to drown a fly."
— Yor.\«, Xiyht

WHEN the salmon emerge from the ladder
they enter a tranquil stream, gliding with that
exaggerated smoothness which often seems to
precede a great fall. Ascending, they find them-
selves in deeper water, and a hundred yards
higher up the river runs twenty-five feet deep
through a narrow channel, which is spanned by
a bridge. In hot weather and low water fish
may often be seen lying in these depths, where
probably the temperature is slightly lower than
on the sun-warmed surface.

As we proceed upwards from the bridge the
river makes a rectangular bend to the north,
and forms a large pool, which is known to us
as Os Pool. The river is broad here and the
pool not very well defined. Fish frequent dif-
ferent parts of it in different states of water.
In very high water many lie close to the right

67

68 A RIVER OF NORWAY

bank ; in low water in the stream at the head,
or at the tail on the shelving shore of a rocky
island a short distance above the bridge. In
this year of great floods this rock has twice
been completely submerged — at the beginning
of June and again at the beginning of July —
an event which has not occurred before in our
experience. It is here that we have sometimes
met with the sluggish fish referred to in a pre-
vious chapter. Probably they are bad travellers,
which have not taken the leaps in the ladder
in good style, and have knocked themselves up.
But they are not all so wanting in energy. I
remember one which went down under the
bridge and perilously near to the Fos. To go
below the bridge in a boat is not attractive,
with the great Fos ahead, and it was necessary
to induce this misguided salmon to return.

Owing to its being so near to the house, this
pool gets a great deal of fishing in the course
of the season. But though it is often crowded
with fish, and in the warm evenings of July they
will jump around one in very provoking fashion,
it cannot be said that the results are satisfactory.
For some reason or other fish often do not rise
well here. Yet close to the rock at the bottom

THE UPPER RIVER 69

of the pool they will sometimes take the fly in
water not less than twelve or fifteen feet deep.
In rivers so clear as this is, fish will rise from a
much greater deptli than is usual in less trans-
parent waters.

In this pool we have frequently observed a
female goosander (Merits Merganser) with her
brood. It is a pretty sight to see her take
her young ones on her back, and swim across
the river. These birds are said to be very
destructive of small fish ; their gullet is very
capacious, and they have an extraordinary power
of digestion.

A couple of hundred yards above Os Pool
is a small wooded island, the main stream run-
ning on the north side and forming a decep-
tively beautiful pool. It is said that when the
salmon first came up into the river, after the
building of the ladder, many were killed here.
Now, although the pool looks most inviting,
they seem to have taken a dislike to it, and
we have risen very few there. Probably the
bottom has become too smooth, and a few big
rocks dropped into the pool might restore its
former fame. This shifting of pools, due to the
breaking up of the ice and the wearing effect

70 A RIVER OF NORWAY

of the floes, is one of the curses of Norwegian
rivers. Their continual tendency is to become
more even-flowing, and to develop long stretches
of water useless except for harling, in the place
of pools suitable for casting. Now that fishing
rights have become so valuable, attempts are
frequently made to cope with this tendency,
sometimes with success. But such work re-
quires to be done well and carefully. On a
river in the South of Norway, with which I
am acquainted, the owner some years ago built
a wall across a rapid, and created a fine little
pool. The wall was built loosely of large
boulders and looked very insecure when I visited
the river. Recently, in a big flood, it gave way ;
and not only has the artificial pool disappeared,
but the debris has choked up and ruined a pool
below, which happened to be the best piece of
water on the river.

For half a mile or more above the island
there is such a stretch of water. The lower
part of it, where the river is broad and com-
paratively shallow, and flows with a moderate
stream, is a great haunt of grilse and sea trout
in August, and salmon have occasionally been
killed there in July ; but its length and the

THE UPPER RIVER 71

absence of variety make it a wearisome piece
of water to fish.

In the upper part where the river is narrower
and the stream more swift, I have endeavoured
to make pools by building three stone barricades
in the bed of the river, about a hundred yards
apart. This work can only be done in a hard
winter, when the river is very low and the
ice on it very thick. Large blocks of stone
are dragged on to the ice, which is then cut
and they are placed in position through it, and
joined with iron clamps. The work has been
very well and solidly done and looks as if
it would stand for centuries. These barricades
are islands ; a portion of the stream is allowed
to go between them and the nearer bank. This
prevents the great backwash which would other-
wise be created. The effect is already very
perceptible ; and is probably being much in-
creased by the floods of this year. In some
places the water is deepening ; in others, banks
are being thrown up. It is to be hoped that
the pools which are forming will suit the fancy
of the fish, but it is impossible to predict their
likes and dislikes in such matters.

In this part of the river a good deal more

72 A RIVER OF NORWAY

might be done to make pools, but it is a trouble-
some and expensive business. Not the least of
the difficulties connected with it, is the necessity
of settling with the riparian owners. The erec-
tion of a barrier in such a swift river may easily
have quite unexpected results on the banks be-
low, and if no agreement covering this has been
entered into beforehand, the angler may be con-
fronted with a heavy claim for damages. And
unless one has a greater security of tenure than
is usual nowadays in Norway, it is hardly worth
while to do much; especially as one is certain
in the future to have to pay rent on one's own
improvements.

A little above this we enter a better region.
The river contracts and forms a series of natural
pools known to us as Aamot's (" Waters-
meet," from the junction of a tributary with
the main river). The lowest of these is as
fine a pool as one may wish to see, fishable in
high or low water, from a boat or from the
right bank. On this bank the ground is very
rocky and rugged, the mountain rising steeply
from the river. To facilitate casting, I have
erected a long stage. But there is the dis-
advantage that one cannot follow a fish that

THE UPPER RIVER 73

goes down, or at any rate to follow it is a
hazardous and difficult business. On one of
the last evenings of July this year, I hooked
from this stage a 20-lb. fish, which in his first
rush, aided by the strong stream, took sixty or
seventy yards from my reel. And there he
stuck at the tail of the pool, and for a long
time nothing that I could do would induce
him to come back. To go down the bank
was to run the risk of getting hopelessly in-
volved in the big bushes and boulders by the
water's edge. Above me on the mountain side
ran the road, but it was an awkward climb to
it with a fish on, and it looked hopelessly far
off. So I decided to stay where I was, and to
hold him hard if he showed any inclination to
go down further. As often happens, he chose
the line of least resistance, and came back to
me ; slowly, doggedly, and with many resentful
rushes and shakings of the head. But back
he came, and in the quiet little cove below
the stage, the excellent Anders Osen, no mean
gaffer for all his humble looks, landed him in
perfect style. On this evening the pool was
alive with jumping fish, but not another fish
would move to the fly. There are some who

74 A RIVER OF NORWAY

think that the killing of a fish in a pool renders
it useless for further fishing, and that you
had better proceed at once to the next. My
experience is quite the other way. I doubt
if the other fish connect the extraordinary
behaviour of their companion with any outside
agency. Once or twice I have tried fishing with
two flies, a practice learnt in Ireland. I have
given it up, finding on more than one occasion
that when I hooked a fish on the tail fly, it was
as likely as not that another took the dropper,
and to have two lusty salmon pulling different
ways on a single gut cast is more than it can
be expected to stand.

Above the main Aamot's Pool are two or
three casts from the big boulders which line
the shore, and then we come to a long rapid,
at the top of which is the best-looking piece
of water on the river, known as Furenaes
Stream. In some seasons it holds many fish.
There is a legend that a certain Captain K.
hooked a fish in high water from the left bank,
which promptly made down the rapid. On this
side it is impossible to go down the bank ; trees
grow close to the water's edge and overhang
the river. Close to the bank the water is in

THE UPPER RIVER 75

some places deep, not less, I should say, than
six feet. In spite of Lars' endeavours to hold
him back, Captain K. took to the river and
followed the fish. Lars, it is reported, knelt
down and said his^ prayers, thinking the angler
must he drowned. How he managed it I
cannot tell; swimming through deep holes in
a tearing rapid, burdened with a salmon rod
and with a big fish ahead, sounds an impossible
undertaking; but he got safely down, and in
the end killed the fish, which weighed 26 lb.,
just above the bridge in Os Pool, nearly two
miles below. Truly, a valiant man.

Looking upwards from this stream, we see,
half a mile above, the white foam of a Ml,
known to Norwegians as Rekavik, to us as
Second Fos. Below it is a big circular basin,
different parts of which are fishable according
to the state of the river. But where the river
emerges from this basin, as it were in the neck
of the bottle, close to some trees on the left
bank, is the surest cast. I think we kill more
fish here than in any other pool of the upper
water. It is to this point that many fish
run as soon as they have ascended the ladder
at Osen. Doubtless their upward course is

76 A RIVER OF NORWAY

checked by Second Fos, which is difficult of
ascent in high water, and they then drop back
to this convenient lying ground below. The
earliest date on which we have killed a fish
here is the 19th of June. It was not a credit-
able specimen of its race ; a queer little salmon
of 6 lb.; not, to all appearance, a grilse ; but
as the earliest fish on record he has held a
place in our daily life and conversation, quite
disproportionate to his personal merits. Doubt-
less if we fished here persistently, in the middle
of June, we should frequently kill fish ; but at
that season we are usually having good sport
in the lower water, and there is little induce-
ment to waste time on an off chance.

There is one drawback to this excellent pool.
When a fish is hooked in the favourite spot
by the bushes, there is nowhere near where
one can land to play it. It is necessary to
row some way up and across the river, and to
land by the road — a distance of two hundred
yards. This is all very well if the fish will
follow the boat, as they often do; but some
fish have other views, and prefer to run down
out of the pool into Furenaes Stream below.
On the whole, however, how comparatively

THE UPPER RIVER 77

seldom fish of ordinary size go down very far,
if properly handled ! Fish seem to know when
a novice wields the rod; they at once take
command, and the pace at which they will go
down stream (and the novice after them) is
amazing. " Hands " are as valuable on the river
as in the hunting-field.

But there are occasions when nothing will
stop a fish. Some years ago W. hooked an
uncontrollable fish at this spot. It made down
stream, Anders murmuring at intervals that it
was the biggest fish ever hooked in the river —
"En meget meget stor lax." They landed on
the bank in Furenaes Stream, but failed to
stop the fish from running into the rough
and dangerous rapid below, through which the
valiant Captain K. once paddled and swam.
So they took to the boat again, and followed
the fish down the rapid. It was ultimately
killed in Aamot's Pool, and proved to be a
14-pounder hooked in the tail. The more you
pull at a fish so hooked, the more you turn
its head down stream.

I remember a singular adventure of my
friend S. when we were fishing a river farther
north together. He hooked a fish at the tail

78 A RIVER OF NORWAY

of a smooth pool, from which ran a steep rapid.
The fish went over the edge, and down the
stream. There was no time to discuss the
situation, so he followed in the boat. Half-
way down the stream, the boat bumped on a
rock, and S., more intent on the fish than on
his balance, took a header over the stern. The
boatman contrived to hold the boat on the
rock, and S. crawled into it again. " Where's
your rod ? " said the gillie, who had left his
manners in America. " I am sure I don't
know," said S., who had other things to think
about. After they had groped about with the
gaff for some time, the rod was discovered in
the bed of the river and rescued. Strange
to tell, when the slack line was wound up,
the fish was found to be still on the hook.
They then proceeded on their journey, and
the fish was duly killed in the pool below.
This eccentric salmon, which, if my memory
is correct, weighed 18 lb., was found to be
blind of one eye.

Strange expedients have sometimes to be
adopted when a fish goes down beyond an
impassable barrier. In a certain Irish fishery
there is a bridge, which an angler cannot pass

THE UPPER RIVER 79

under. If a fish is hooked above it, and goes
down, it is usual for the gillie to stand below
and to cut the line, holding the end to which
the fish is attached until the angler has passed
over the obstacle. The ends are then tied
together, and the sport proceeds. A lady who
had seen fish killed in this way and no other,
went with her husband to Norway. She was
on the bank when he hooked a fish, and
after waiting a few minutes in expectation,
called out to him, "Aren't you going to cut
the line?"

In this strange season of 1903 sport in the
upper water has been a complete failure. A
salmon or two in Os Pool and Aamot's and
a few grilse in Second Fos, and that is all.
The fish were several weeks later than usual
in ascending the ladder; and when they had
ascended they would not look at the fly.
Certainly at that time the river was rising
slowly day by day, and fish seldom take well
when that is happening; but considering what
a great run there was when at last it came, it
is strange that we did not have a little sport.
In the big water year of 1899, when fish were
also very late in running up, we had excellent

80 A RIVER OF NORWAY

sport right up to the last day of July, when
we left. Our hasty generalisation that a big
river will always mean good sport has received
its death-blow.

The conditions this season have been very
unusual. Generally the river is moderately
high when we arrive, and if warm weather
sets in, it rises a little, and then remains fairly
steady for a period proportionate to the quantity
of snow which has fallen in the previous winter.
When- this begins to be depleted, the river
commences to fall slowly, and only very ex-
ceptionally hot weather, or a great downpour
of rain, bring about a rise. This is the state
of affairs most favourable to sport.

This year, on the other hand, we arrived to
find the biggest flood we have ever seen. For
the first fortnight of June the river continued
very high. Then extremely cold weather set
in (the thermometer was one evening down to
42° Fahrenheit), and the river fell very rapidly.
During this period the run of salmon seemed
to stop, but a large number of grilse came in.
Towards the end of the month, the wind went
round to the southward, and there was a good
deal of rain. A warm south wind melts the

THE UPPER RIVER 81

snow much more quickly than the sun does,
and the river rose to very high flood again.

On the 1st of July it was as high as it had
been on the 1st of June. With this flood
came a fresh run of salmon, and for a week or
so we had capital sport. More cold weather
followed, and again the river fell rapidly.
About the middle of July the weather became
warm and fine, and continued so until the
end of the month. During this period the
river was again steadily rising. This unsettled
condition is very bad for sport. If in June
the weather had been normal, we should have
had big water throughout the month, followed
probably by a steady fall through July ; and
as there were lots of fish, sport would almost
certainly have been good.

It is supposed that unless August is very
hot indeed there will be plently of last winter's
snow left unmelted till next year ; which is
therefore likely to be another season of big
water.

The great rapid which we call Second Fos
consists of two main falls, with a turbid pool
between them. By the side of the lower of
these a short fish-pass of two or three steps has

82 A RIVER OF NORWAY

been made to help fish to ascend, but it is not
very well constructed and it is doubtful whether
fish use it much. When the water is not very
heavy they can surmount the falls with no great
difficulty. But if the river remains big during
July, they are unable to do so, and drop back
to the pools below, and to Furenaes Stream,
where under such conditions we often have
very good sport.

CHAPTER VII

THE TOP WATER

"Once more upon the waters ! yet once more !"

— BYRON ; Childe Harold.

\Vm:x we leave Second Fos behind us we enter
a different land. The road, which in the narrow
pass has hung over the foaming waters of the
fall, leaves the river as the valley widens into a
broad plain, and pursues a more direct course to
the next ravine, two and a half miles higher up.
Immediately at the top of the Fos, in the very
curl of the yet unbroken water, fish often lie,
and are sometimes hooked. In such an event
it is well to "be aisy " with them, and to in-
duce them to swim up into the less dangerous
waters above. One's natural inclination is to
hold tight to prevent them going down. This
is quite futile, and in such a desperate struggle
a fish is likely to lose his head and his balance,
and to be carried by the force of the water
over the fatal edge. For the next half mile
there is a fair stream in which salmon may

83

84 A RIVER OF NORWAY

often be seen lying, but it is too even flowing
and smooth to fish for them except on a rough
day, or in very big water; and then as a rule
we have other fish to fry. This stream com-
mences at a small island, which breaks the
smoothness somewhat, and creates a small cast
on either side.

For two miles above until the influence of
the next rapid, Alvaer Fos, becomes perceptible,
the river resembles rather a narrow lake. It
is broken by one or two gentle streams, but
they are not important from a fishing point
of view. In some seasons a good many fish
lie in this lake-like stretch. If we were able
to devote more time to it, it is probable that
we should be occasionally rewarded. Though
the volume of water is much greater, it some-
what resembles those West of Ireland streams
which are considered only fishable in a breeze.
Even when the surface is perfectly still, it is
strange how fish may sometimes be lured to
the fly. I once had a remarkable experience
of this. We were fishing a small river not far
from Stavanger. Day by day it had been
falling until it was reduced to a few still pools,
connected by a mere trickle. Some of these

THE TOP WATER 85

pools contained salmon, which were unable to
move either up or down. About noon on a
cloudless day, my wife and D. and I were
sitting on the bank idly watching some twenty
fish, which we knew well by sight, and which
doubtless knew us equally well, when it was
suggested that I should put a fly over them.
It seemed a hopeless, if harmless, proceeding,
for as I took my rod and crept along a short
pier built to facilitate casting, every fish in the
pool must have seen me. I threw a short line
with a tiny Silver Wilkinson at the end of it,
and almost as it touched the water, a fish came
up, made a huge boil on the surface, and re-
turned to his lair without touching it. I
waited a few minutes, changed to a small grey-
bodied Alexandra, and tried again. Again a
fish came up and this time took the fly ; and in
a few minutes I had a fine 12-pounder on the
bank. I have never seen such an occurrence
before or since, but it taught me that if there
are fish in the water, it is never quite impossible
to lure them.

So on a fine afternoon in July, E. and I
take the boat which lies at the top of Second
Fos. She has brought a trout rod, and the

86 A RIVER OF NORWAY

faithful Anders is to row us up the still water
to the great pool below Alvaer Fos. The
rest of the party are taking a holiday, and
will meet us by the Fos, and we shall picnic
in the woods. As we row up, we trail our
flies behind, she a cast of trout flies, I a Jock
Scot. The river trout take them with a reck-
less indiscrimination, but to-day they are not
rising very well. So we have leisure to admire
the scene ; unlike the angler I have somewhere
read of, who, being asked what he thought of
the view, indignantly replied that he had
come to Norway to fish, not to look at
scenery. And very lovely it is. On one
side the wooded hills come to the water's
edge, with here and there a grassy glade.
On the other, we look across the vale to the
hills which separate us from the Sogne Fjord,
still bearing great drifts of last winter's snows.
Behind us are the steep and rugged rocks of
Furenaes apparently barring the end of the
valley, and, towering above all, the great mass
of the Stor Hest. No salmon disturbs our
contemplation of these beauties, and at length
we come in sight of the great foaming rapid
of Alvaer Fos.

THE TOP WATER 87

A rapid it is, or a series of rapids, rather
than a fall. In some heights of water fish
can ascend it, but in order to facilitate the
ascent, two short ladders have been blasted
out of the rock. Between the two main
rapids, which are thus rendered easy to sur-
mount, lies a small pool, deep and turbid, in
which fish break their upward journey. It is
not suitable for fishing with a fly. Below the
Fos is a great pool, to all appearance another
Lervik, but in practice somewhat belying its
looks ; and below that a gentler stream, in
which, as it deepens on the left bank under
some trees, big fish often lie, and will some-
times take. These two pools I try in vain ;
the river is low and the water warm, and
probably the fish are cooling themselves in
the white foam beneath the Fos. So we land
and eat our supper with the rest of the party,
who have come up by road. Meantime Anders
is peering into the ladders, and the small holes
in the Fos. Suddenly he beckons with a
mysterious air, and points to the mid-Fos
pool already mentioned. We crawl to his
side, and looking cautiously over the precipi-
tous rock, we see below us and within a few

88 A RIVER OF NORWAY

feet of our faces, half-a-dozen salmon. It is
impossible to put a fly over them, and I have
no other lure with me ; unlike a friend of
mine, who always " happened to have a prawn
in his pocket." But the sight of these fish
excites cupidity, and to-morrow I will come
again better prepared.

Then we start on our homeward row. At
the tail of the second pool some trout are
rising, and E. tries a few casts. Suddenly
there is a boil and a splash, and the little ten-
foot rod bends, and the reel whirrs. Can it
be a big brown trout ? or is it a veritable lax ?
It is almost her first essay with the rod, and
the excitement is intense. Trembling we land
on a shelving shore, and at length after the
fish has made many a desperate run he is
safely brought to the net, and turns out to
be a 4-lb. grilse. And so we do not return
empty-handed. We ought to have had a
salmon too. Coming down the river through
the territory of the trout, I had put a trout
cast on my light salmon rod. I tried the
water below Second Fos on the way home,
and did not take the trouble to change the
gut. There I hooked a salmon, which made

THE TOP WATER 89

down stream and quickly broke me ; a very
proper warning against the use of inadequate
tackle.

The next evening I began operations by
driving up to the top of the fishing. This is
at Sande Fos, about two miles above Alvaer.
A few fish surmount Sande Fos late in the
year, and there are parr above, showing that
fish spawn there, but from an angling point
of view the water is not worth considering.
The river between Sande Fos and Alvaer
contains six good pools and a long stretch,
more suitable for hading than for casting the
fly. It is, unfortunately, not of much use to
us, as few fish are to be found there till
August, and we generally leave at the end
of July. The top pool under the Fos is, I
believe, often crowded with fish late in the
season. On this occasion I rose a fish in the
second pool, a fine piece of water below a
long rapid, but he did not take hold. I did
not waste much time on the lower pools,
though I saw one or two fish jump, as I was
anxious to try for our friends of the previous
day in Alvaer Fos.

Arrived at the pool we crawl to the edge

90 A RIVER OF NORWAY

and see at once that fish are there. Standing
well back I drop a prawn into the edge of
the stream and it circles slowly round into the
backwater where they are lying. Anders, flat
on his stomach, with only his head projecting
over the edge, reports that four fish run at
it. One takes it. I strike and it is well
hooked, a fish of about 18 Ib. It makes two
mad rushes into the stream above, and is
hauled back; then once out into the foaming
torrent, and in a second is swept over the Fos,
my line coming back to me without the prawn
and half the trace. It is doubtful whether
any tackle will hold a fish in this water, and
if it does, how the fish is to be gaffed is a
problem. But after resting for ten minutes,
and putting up an extra stout trace I try
again. As the prawn swings through the
backwater, Anders laughs a weird hysterical
laugh, and another fish seizes the bait. This
time it is a smaller fish, perhaps about 12 Ib.,
and I manage to hold him in the smoother
water. But after a minute he dashes out
towards the stream, and jumping frees himself.
This is enough. There is something fascinat-
ingly piratical about this proceeding, but it is

THE TOP WATER 91

hardly fair fishing. The chance of landing a
fish is very small, and a fish breaking the
tackle and getting swept over the fall would
very likely be killed. I fish down to Second
Fos without success. In the pool below, at
midnight, I lose one fish and kill another of
8 lb., and walk home to Osen as the day
begins to dawn.

It is a pity that the top water, especially
the section above Alvaer Fos, is of so com-
paratively little use for angling. It contains
some of the best pools and streams on the river,
and they have the additional merit of being
for the most part fishable in low water. But
in the generality of seasons fish do not reach
them in any quantity before August, and by
that time those which ran early have gone off
very much in condition, and do not rise well
to the fly. There was a Spanish king who
regretted that he had not been consulted at
the Creation, because he could have suggested
several improvements. He might have included
a hint that salmon should not lose in the river
the brightness and vigour they bring from the
sea. How greatly would such an arrangement
alleviate the angler's lot ! How much does

92 A RIVER OF NORWAY

perfect satisfaction in sport depend on the
quarry being in the pink of condition, and of
use as human food ! It must be a deplorable
drawback to the exciting sport of tarpon-fishing,
that there is nothing to be done with the fish
when killed.

One very early season there were a great
many fish in this part of the river before the
middle of July. But it was the extraordinarily
hot July of 1901, when the thermometer regis-
tered 89° in the shade at Osen, and the tempera-
ture of the river reached 67°. In such weather
and water fishing is very hopeless. I have
heard that trout die at a temperature of 75°, and
if this is so, the inhabitants of the river must
have been getting very nervous at that time.
It does not appear that the influence of tem-
perature on salmon has been at all adequately
studied, either as regards its effect on their
running, or on their taking the fly. Certainly
they lose their condition much faster when the
water is warm than when it is cold. As far
as I have observed the most favourable tempera-
ture for angling is from 49° to 54°.

But as a breeding-place for salmon this top
water is all that could be desired. There are

THE TOP WATER 93

gravel-beds for spawning, and gentle rapids and
quiet backwaters for the young fry. Perhaps
the fact that they now have free access to it
accounts for an improvement in the size and
number of salmon, which seems to have taken
place here of recent years.

It is necessary in a river of this size and
character to use a boat or some other appliance
to enable one to get one's fly over the best
water. When it is very big, fish will lie close
to the shore, and it may be possible to reach
them from the bank ; in very low water, a good
deal may be done by wading. But under
ordinary circumstances, some other means must
be adopted in the majority of pools. When we
first took the river, fishing in the upper waters
was very inadequately provided for. Certain
places where bank-fishing seemed possible were
rendered useless by trees and thick under-
growth. By their agreements, the landowners
were bound to cut down any trees within a
certain distance of the river, if required. On
taking the matter up I found a great unwilling-
ness on their part to carry out this undertaking.
It seemed that this might be due to a sentimen-
tal dislike of denuding their banks of timber to

94 A RIVER OF NORWAY

which they had been accustomed from child-
hood ; even perhaps to an aesthetic prejudice in
favour of seeing the dimpled stream glide

"beneath the tangled roots
Of pendent trees."

Not at all. It arose entirely from a disinclina-
tion to unprofitable labour, and when I offered
to pay the wages of a wood-cutter, every tree in
the valley was at my disposal. From some of
the banks so cleared we have erected little piers,
about three yards in length and thirty-five yards
apart. Beginning from each of these with a
short line, and adding a yard or two each cast,
it is possible to cover most of the pool. Where,
as in Aamot's, the shore is lined with big
boulders, some as large as a cottage, it is easy
by an arrangement of planks to construct a
way from one to the other, and thus to secure a
vantage-ground along a great part of the pools.
Where this is impossible or inconvenient we
have tried a floating raft, made of boards laid on
petroleum barrels, arranged in pairs a few yards
apart, and anchored in the required spot.
There are disadvantages in this contrivance ; a
fish may run under the raft, and the line get
foul of a barrel or an anchor chain. But in

THE TOP WATER 95

reply to such objections, it may be urged that
the prime and cardinal point is to hook your
fish, and that such difficulties (the prospect of
which may even add a zest to your sport) can
be left to be dealt with as they occur. Any
fixed standpoint from which to cast is preferable
to a boat, wherein you are subject to the
vagaries of your boatman.

Still, boats are constantly required. When
we arrived we found only two on the upper
waters, and learnt that it was customary for
each angler to start in one at his top cast, and
to descend the river from pool to pool till he
came to the end of his water ; the boat being
taken back by cart next morning. This was a
most unsatisfactory arrangement. You could
not choose your pool to commence with, you
were unable to return to it when once it was
left behind, and you were tied to an unchanging
routine. So I procured a number of boats,
sufficient to provide one for each important
pool. Splendid craft, stout, buoyant, and in
every way serviceable, are built in Bergen or
the neighbourhood, and in this land of abundant
timber, cost only thirty shillings each. On the
Sundals-Elv and some other rivers it is custom-

96 A RIVER OF NORWAY

ary to use flat-bottomed punts, with a pointed
bow and a square stern. As they seemed very
convenient, I imported a couple ; but our men
would have nothing to do with them, and it is
useless to fight against local prejudice.

It is very advisable to chain and padlock the
boats ; for the artful native, even if he does not
borrow them for a little private fishing at con-
venient hours, which he thinks will not clash
with our arrangements, is fond of making use of
them as a means of crossing the river. And it
is annoying, on arrival at a pool, to see your
boat on the other side, where you cannot get
at it.

CHAPTER VIII

OUR NEIGHBOURS

" Those tall grave dazzling Norse
High-cheeked, lank-haired."

— BROWNING, Sordello.

OUR house stands about two hundred yards
to the south of the river, and out of sight of
the great Fos. But with a downward gust of
wind, its roar falls upon us like the rushing
of an express train through the vale. Close
to one corner of the house stands a large oak
tree, an unusual object in these latitudes. In
front is a small enclosed garden, where with
painful toil I have striven to cultivate such
hardy flowers as wiU endure ten months' neglect
and the rigours of the sunless winter. The
soil is very poor, being composed chiefly of
minute chips of granite brought down by the
river in far distant days ; yet if bad for garden-
ing it makes a dry and healthy foundation for
the house. Lupins flourish in it exceedingly,
and bloom with great luxuriance ; and this season

97

98 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the place is gay with Iceland poppies, and grace-
ful columbines, brought from England a year or
two ago, and now well established — the most
successful of a considerable variety of plants
we have endeavoured to acclimatise. There is
also an apple orchard, a lovely object when
it blooms in early June. In the trees sur-
rounding the orchard there is always a nest
of magpies, a sacred bird in Norway ; and the
garden is the haunt of a very friendly race of
wagtails. This year a pair of pied flycatchers
have built in a hole in the roof of the farmer's
house here, and all day long are popping in
and out. The green woodpecker may some-
times be observed on the trunk of the oak tree ;
and this July my wife watched for some time
a family of a mother and four full-grown young
ones on some trees near the road. Norway is
not prolific of small birds, but this year they
seem to be far more numerous than usual,
perhaps owing to a great decrease which we
notice in the number of grey crows.

The house, built a hundred years ago, is of the
old Norwegian type, solidly constructed of logs
with outside boarding. Its roominess and the
character of its decorations and appointments

OUR NEIGHBOURS

99

indicate a superior culture and style of living to
that of the present inhabitants of the valley.
Over a doorway on the landing is a coat of
arms, a rare ornament in democratic Norway.

The Norwegian owner of the property lives
in a small house close by, and his farm
buildings and yard — such a spick-and-span farm-
yard as is never seen out of Norway — lie
beyond.

The house looks north-west across a meadow
to the mouth of the river and the head of

100 A RIVER OF NORWAY

the fjord. The background is filled by the
giant bulk of the Stor Hest, rearing, to a
height of 4000 feet, his barren cliffs above the
greenery of lesser hills. In his outline an
imaginative eye may trace the origin of his
name, Great Horse. It is a fair scene, set off
here and there by glimpses of white houses
and red barns, amid the cultivated clearings.
To a point about two miles down the fjord, a
small steamer comes thrice a week from Bergen.
We cannot see the boat, but we sometimes
look for its smoke, which heralds the arrival
of our mail, with the eagerness of the Romans
watching for the white column at a Papal
election. This year we find a telephone line
has been constructed to the nearest telegraph
office, distant seventeen miles ; and so we are
in touch with the outer world. One learns
in this poor and thinly populated land how
backward we English have been in the use of
such appliances.

On St. John's Eve, the 23rd of June, it
is customary for the lads and lasses of the
country-side to assemble here, and to dance
on the green sward in the centre of the farm
buildings through the night. A fiddler, to

OUR NEIGHBOURS 101

whom each dancer contributes a mite, makes
music. It is our privilege to provide the
refreshments, consisting of beer and lemon-
ade. This dance is a part of the celebration
of midsummer, some of the customs connected
with which are said to date from times long
anterior to the introduction of Christianity.
Bonfires blaze on the hills, and torches flare
from boats on the fjord. There is much leap-
ing through flames ; and other heathenish rites
are observed. Last year we brought from
England some fireworks and coloured lights,
and though in the twilight of midsummer night
they did not show to advantage, they had a
great success. The fiddler was deserted, and
at the conclusion of our entertainment we re-
ceived a round of applause, a most unusual
compliment from these shy and stolid youngsters.
This year, owing to Lars' death, we give no
encouragement to the dance, and it falls through.
There are plenty of young people and children
here, but, owing to the enormous emigration
to America, there seems to be quite a scarcity
of able-bodied men. Enterprise and adventure
are in the Norseman's blood. The land breeds
more and stronger men than it can support.

102 A RIVER OF NORWAY

A thousand years ago the Vikings — dwellers
in viks, or fjords — overran half Europe, carved
their way to kingdoms, and founded great
families. Rolf the Ganger came from this
coast ; his great-grandson was Duke of Nor-
mandy and King of England. A humble
peasant, dwelling on the land his fathers have
cultivated for centuries, may represent the elder
line of a family whose younger branch is some
great house in France or England. But the
connections are lost in the mists of antiquity.
To-day great Norwegian communities are being
founded in America, a land which there is
little doubt the Norsemen discovered centuries
before Columbus. A few of these emigrants
return, not always with dollars. Some settle
on the paternal lands, others find a lucrative
occupation in catering for tourists. I have
heard that quite a large number come over
every spring to act as servants, &c., in con-
nection with the tourist hotels, and return to
America in the autumn. It cannot be said
that these returned emigrants are, as a rule,
pleasant people. The dignified reserve of the
Norwegian peasant is often replaced by a very
objectionable self-assertiveness.

OUR NEIGHBOURS 103

But in spite of the depletion of the adult
population, there is a general air of prosperity
about the country. In this district first-class
roads are being made ; and as road- makers the
Norwegians are unequalled. Since we have
known the valley, several good houses and farm
buildings have been built. The people generally
are well housed and well clothed. The poorest
cottages have glass windows and boarded floors.
The wooden houses are cheap and excellent.
They are much drier than the badly built stone
and brick houses in which most of our people
in England live. For £200 you can build a
good farm-house with eight or ten rooms. The
danger of fire, so serious in towns, is not great
in the country.

For clothes, the men wear chiefly a dark blue
home-spun, a sombre but serviceable garb.
Here the women still work in their traditional
dress — a white shirt, scarlet bodice and dark
skirt — a custom which is unhappily dying out
elsewhere.

As a whole, these peasants are a kindly race.
They are certainly very gentle with their
animals. The sheep will eat out of your hand.
The cow will stand and let the stranger rub

104 A RIVER OF NORWAY

her nose. The horses show by their absence
of vice the kindly way in which they have been
handled. It is customary for the foals to run
with their mothers, when in work. They thus
early learn the incidents of travel and the
customs of the road.

To their children and servants also, as far
as a stranger may judge, they are exceedingly
kind. There seems to be a complete absence
of the chiding and screaming mother and
mistress with whom we are unhappily familiar.
The children, though shy with strangers, seem
to stand in no awe of their parents and elders.
In the relations of master and servant there
is little of the assumed deference expected by
the payer of wages from the receiver, in
countries still under the influence of feudal
traditions.

Norway has never known a feudal system,
with its accompanying primogeniture. From
time immemorial the father's property has been
inherited by all his children in equal shares.
The subdivision of land seems to have reached
its limit long ago. It is customary for the
eldest son to buy out the younger children, who

OUR NEIGHBOURS 105

either work for him or go elsewhere to find a
living.1

As a reverse side of the picture, it strikes a
foreigner that, in the relations of these peasants
with each other, there is quite an unnecessary
amount of jealousy and backbiting. This is
possibly a result of peasant proprietorship, and
the land-hunger common to countries where
other modes of living than on the land are
rare. And in any business dealings which a
stranger may have with them, he will do well
to take no statement on trust.

During the war in South Africa, the
sympathies of these people were of course
strongly with the Boers ; but with the ex-
ception of one offensive American-Norwegian
who hung over our garden fence, and guessed
the Boers were knocking spots out of the
British army, they were very guarded in their
remarks to us. Lars, on being told that peace
was concluded, would only say, "And quite
time too." It was chiefly the financial aspect
of the war that struck Anders. On any re-
ference to it, he always murmured, " Kost

1 A most interesting and sympathetic account of this, as of other
Norwegian matters, may be found in Laing's te Journal of a Resi-
dence in Norway,0 published hi London in 1836.

106 A RIVER OF NORWAY

mange krone." My Norwegian was not equal
to explaining the rights and wrongs of the
case. On the face of it, the Boer position,
that of a small nation defending itself to the
last against a powerful invader, is more specious
and attractive, particularly to such a people
as the Norwegians.

And in the prolonged resistance which the
Boers were able to make, there is some en-
couragement for Norway. The difficulties of
subduing the country would be enormous.
Anders and a few of his friends lying out on
the cliffs above Second Fos would make the
passage of the valley very hazardous. The
whole population goes through a course of
military training, though it does not appear
that rifle practice is, as in Switzerland, a popular
pastime.

A few years ago the possibility of a rupture
with Sweden was openly discussed. The
Western Norwegians are almost to a man op-
posed to the Swedish connection. The English
are accustomed to blame them for this, but it
should be remembered that the union is not
yet a hundred years old, and that it was the
outcome of the Napoleonic wars, and especially

OUR NEIGHBOURS 107

of the desire of the first Bernadotte to have
the kingdom of Norway to fall back on in
the event of his losing Sweden, where he felt
very insecure. The extreme Separatists were
supposed to be ready even to throw themselves
into the arms of Russia to obtain assistance
against the Swedes. But owing to the out-
rageous treatment of Finland by the Russian
Government, a great revulsion of feeling has
taken place in Norway. And in fact Norway,
which in the extreme north marches with
Russia, has much to fear from her neighbour.
The northern harbours, which, owing to the in-
fluence of the Gulf Stream, are free from ice all
the year round, may some day prove an irresis-
tible attraction to the greater power ; and we in
England may have to face a North of Europe
question and the prospect of a Russian Naval
Station within a few days' sail of our shores.

Yet threatened nations live long. The late
Mr. Samuel Laing, writing in 1835 ("Journal of
a Residence in Norway"), spoke of the danger
of Russian aggression as imminent. Many
salmon have ascended the rivers since then.

The peasants here are no great sportsmen.
There is little or no game on the hills, and the

108 A RIVER OF NORWAY

salmon are otherwise engaged. All the early
books on sport in Norway are agreed that,
until the advent of the English pioneers, the
Norwegians knew nothing of fishing with rod
and line. Now the country boys are fond of
fishing for trout. Their methods are accurately
described in the immortal " Three in Norway " :

" They first settle how far they want to cast
— say thirty feet. Then cut down a thirty-foot
pine tree ; take the bark off it, tie a string to
the thin end, and a hook to the string ; stick
a worm on the hook, and go forth to the strife.
When the fish bites, they strike with great
rapidity and violence, and something is bound
to go ; generally it is the fish, which leaves its
native element at a speed which must astonish
it; describes half of a sixty-foot circle at the
same rate, and lands either in a tree or on a
rock with sufficient force to break itself."

Some of the Bergen tradespeople have
become keen anglers, but the notion of sport
has not yet permeated all classes. We asked
our excellent cook, Frederika, who for some
years came from the south of Norway to
minister to our needs, whether there was any
salmon fishing near her home. " Oh yes," she

OUR NEIGHBOURS 109

said, " very good fishing ; it belongs to a Nor-
wegian gentleman." " And does he fish ? " we
inquired. " Oh no," she replied with dignity,
"he does not fish himself; he very rich man;
he pay people to fish for him."

Doubtless she considered us very foolish to
labour with the rod when we might, like the
Norwegian gentleman, achieve a better result
by paying people to net the pools for us. Her
attitude of mind was not unlike that of an
American-speaking Norwegian I once met in
the south of Norway. We were fishing a river
near a small town and staying at the inn there.
My host had an arrangement with the local
fishmonger to sell to him such fish as we did not
want for the inadequate sum of 4d. per pound.
Sport was moderate, and the number of groats
due at the week's end insignificant. The Nor-
wegian exile was staying at the same inn, having
returned to his native land to pickle mackerel
for the American market. Imbued with the
ideas of his adopted country and determined
not to lose a chance, he made inquiries as to
our proceedings, and was evidently puzzled by
them. One evening he said to me, " I've been
reckoning up this salmon-catching business of

110 A RIVER OF NORWAY

yours, and darn me if I can see how you think
you're going to make it pay."

Although, as I have already stated, we have
never had any occasion to suspect that fish
are unlawfully killed in the ladder, where they
might be slaughtered wholesale, yet there is
a certain amount of poaching with rod and
line in the upper waters. Worms are the
favourite bait. Very little is done in this way
during our stay ; but in August, when we are
usually succeeded by friends who come to fish
for that month, there is much cause for com-
plaint. It is a curious feature that the poacher
is often the actual owner of the water or his
near relation. It is doubtful if many fish are
killed, but it is not exactly encouraging to
suspect that a bunch of worms has been run
through a pool an hour before you begin to
fish it with a fly.

There is some excuse for this practice in
August. Years ago the English tenant never
thought of fishing as late as that — and as soon
as his back was turned, the natives fished at
their own discretion ; and if a man fishes his
own water who, except his tenant, shall say
him nay ? But it has been discovered that a

OUR NEIGHBOURS 111

good deal of amusement can be got out of
fishing at that time, and there are numbers of
Englishmen to whom it is a convenient month
for a holiday.

How to deal with these poachers is some-
thing of a problem. A year or two ago,
being elsewhere in Norway at the time, I
received a list of the names of men who had
been observed fishing in my absence. I con-
sulted a lawyer in Bergen. He deprecated
prosecution as troublesome and expensive ; " I
will put up a notice," he said. I suggested
that it did not seem very useful to put up a
notice on ten miles of water. " Oh no," he
said, " I shall not put it up on the river ; I
shall fix it on the church-door." Whether
this brought the marauders under the ban
of mother church I cannot say, but there has
been less cause for complaint since. Perhaps
the improvement has been assisted by my
notifying to the priest that I should stop
subscribing to the local charities, unless his
people showed more respect for my rights.

The names of these people are sometimes a
puzzle to strangers. The peasants as a rule
have no surnames proper. It is usual for

112 A RIVER OF NORWAY

a man to be known by three names : — his
Christian name, that of his father with the
termination -sen, and that of the place at
which he lives, whether he owns it or not.
For instance, Ole Jacobsen Langeland signifies
Ole the son of Jacob, who lives at Langeland.
His son will probably be christened Jacob,
and his full name will be Jacob Olsen Lange-
land. If he moves to Utvik, he will be called
Jacob Olsen Utvik. If he goes to a town or
to America, he probably, but not always, drops
the territorial name and becomes Jacob Olsen.
And then it is usual for Olsen to crystallize
into a surname, and for his children to be
called Olsen too. It is not so long since a
similar custom prevailed in Wales. David
Evans was the son of Evan Davies, and his
son in turn was called by his grandfather's
name. Evans and Davies are now surnames,
but it was just a matter of chance which
genitive form came to be adopted by the
family.

There seems to be a taste for giving rather
high-sounding names to girls : — Christine and
Severine we have met with. The men are
chiefly Anders, Jens, Simon, Knudt (Canute),

OUR NEIGHBOURS 113

Olaf, Martin, and so on. There is a fondness
for names of Latin form such as Rasmus and
Modestus. There being no aristocracy in
Norway, the common people are not tempted
to adopt the English fashion of christening
children after the family names of great houses,
Talbot, Howard, Percy, and the like.

The absence of an upper class, as we under-
stand it, has a very noticeable effect on the life
and character of these peasants. The distinc-
tions of wealth and poverty, though they exist,
are trifling beside those we are accustomed to
in richer countries ; and the consequent equality
of station accounts for much of the self-respect
and independent bearing which are so marked
a characteristic of the Norwegians. To them
may fittingly be applied the well-known lines
of Goldsmith on the Swiss : —

" Though poor the peasant's hut, his feasts though small,
He sees his little lot the lot of all ;
Sees no contiguous palace rear its head,
To shame the meanness of his humble shed ;
No costly lord the sumptuous banquet deal,
To make him loathe his vegetable meal ;
But calm, and bred in ignorance and toil,
Each wish contracting, fits him to the soil."

il

CHAPTER IX

GRILSE

" Alas ! regardless of their doom,
The little victims play ! "

— GRAY, A distant prospect of Eton College.

EARLY in the season, when fresh salmon are
running every tide, and the year is young and
every rising fish may be a monster, grilse are
regarded as a nuisance. " It is only a grilse,"
shouts your comrade in an injured tone, as
his bending rod shows that he is fast in some-
thing. And apart from the dissatisfaction one
may feel with the grilse for not being the
hoped for " stor lax," he will, unless tightly
held and promptly dragged ashore, be a posi-
tive disadvantage ; for he will splash all over
the pool and perchance scare his betters. But
in the dog-days, when the sun is bright and
the water warm, and salmon are scarce and
sulky, the grilse sometimes assumes an impor-
tance more nearly answering to his merits.
We may then even go so far as to take out a
small rod and fine tackle and angle for him of

114

GRILSE 115

set purpose, looking on the chance of hooking
a 20-pounder as a matter to be dealt with if
and when it may occur.

And in truth the grilse are one of the most
important factors in our problem. With our
minds set on a higher quarry we may some-
times regard their prevalence as a plague ;
but they are the vigorous youth of the salmon
race, and with them is the future.

In the books of reference, the grilse is de-
fined as a salmon on its first return from the
sea, before it has spawned. Sceptical Mr.
Willis Bund may have some fault to find with
this, but it is accurate enough for practical
purposes. One would have supposed that the
connection between grilse and salmon was by
this time sufficiently established ; but I learn this
year that some of the net-owners, who are trying
to get the size of the mesh reduced, still maintain
that they are distinct species. A hundred and
fifty years ago Pontoppidan wrote : —

"The Tart, or Pinke, is a small kind of
Salmon, and differs but very little from the
common kind, except it be in size ; for it is
not as big as the Salmon when full grown.

" It is therefore considered as a particular

116 A RIVER OF NORWAY

kind ; though by some writers it is thought
to be no other than a young Salmon."

It is probable that the view that they are
different fish has never died out among the
more ignorant fishermen. And as an important
interest can always secure its expert, the net-
owners are finding some scientific support.

Compared with most Norwegian rivers, grilse
run early here. There are stories of grilse in
May, but I can only speak for certain of our
own experience. The following are the earliest
dates on which we have killed grilse : —

1898 . . . . June 10.

1899 . . . . June 8.

1900 .... June 20.

1901 .... June 3.

1902 . . . . June 9.

1903 .... June 4-.

Of these years, 1898 and 1899 were great
grilse seasons. In 1900 they were very scarce,
only four in all being killed in June. The
next two years there were only moderate runs ;
but in 1903 they have again been exceedingly
numerous.

The average weight is small — over the whole
series of years about 3| Ib. The great majority
weigh from 3 Ib. to 4 Ib., but they have been

GRILSE 117

killed as small as 2 Ib. and as large as 7 lb.
We have had lying on the grass at the same
time a salmon of 6 lb. and a grilse of 7 lb.,
the distinction between the two fish being un-
mistakable. I agree with Sir Herbert Max-
well (" Salmon and Sea Trout," p. 253) that
it is often difficult to tell the difference be-
tween a small salmon and a large grilse. In-
deed, many fish of 4 and 5 lb. have looked
to me very much like salmon. But on the
other hand there are individuals in which the
accepted points of difference are very strongly
marked. There can be little doubt that most
of the larger grilse are killed in the fjord nets,
while many of the smaller fish struggle through,
and bear with them the mark of the mesh.
This is a pity, as the destruction of the finest
and strongest specimens of the race in their
youth must tend to its deterioration. The
present agitation to reduce the size of the mesh
can hardly fail to aggravate this evil, and it is
the interest of all English anglers in Norway
to aid Herr Landmark, the fishery inspector,
in his opposition to the measure, by supplying
him with the details he asks for of net-markings
on the grilse they kill.

118 A RIVER OF NORWAY

Previous to 1902, when no record was kept
of net -marked grilse, I was under the impres-
sion that considerably more than half the grilse
killed were marked. Probably this was an
error, as in 1902 out of seventy-four grilse killed
in June and July only thirty-two had net-
marks. In 1903 out of 119 killed, forty-five
were marked. The proportion therefore seems
to be roughly about 40 per cent.

It is a curious fact that for some days nearly
all the grilse caught will be net-marked ; these
days being preceded and followed by a period
when none will have such markings. For in-
stance, in 1903, from July 5th to 9th, seven-
teen grilse were killed of which not one was
marked. On the 22nd and 23rd of the same
month, of nine grilse seven bore markings.
The explanation of a particular school of grilse
being without marks may be that it has
passed the most heavily-netted portion of
the outer fjords during the weekly close time,
or perhaps that for some reason it has come
through in the deeper water away from the
shores.

Major Traherne in his "Habits of the
Salmon" discusses the conditions of a good

GRILSE 119

grilse year. Our short summer residence on
this Norwegian river precludes us from making
any useful observations on the points connected
with smolts which he raises. We are more
interested in the questions discussed by Mr.
Willis Bund in " Salmon Problems " as to the
connection, if any, between the run of grilse
and " gillings," the term used by Severn fisher-
men for the smaller salmon presumably repre-
senting the next stage in a salmon's life.
Whatever may be the case in rivers of the
British Isles, where fish run in every month of
the year, there can, I think, be little question
that here the small salmon up to, say, 12 Ib.
in weight are the survivors of the grilse of the
previous year. My statistics do not extend
over a sufficiently long period of years to be
in any way conclusive, but such as they are,
they are very significant : —

GRILSE SALMON

Number killed up to and
including 12 Ib. weight.

1898. Very numerous . (176)

1899. Very numerous . (157) 123

1900. Scarce . . (6l) 101

1901. Moderately numerous (107) 34

1902. Scarce . . . (72) 51

1903. Very numerous . (119) 35

120 A RIVER OF NORWAY

The figures within brackets are the numbers
of grilse killed. They do not altogether re-
present the strength of the run, as the extent
to which grilse have been fished for has varied
in different seasons. For example, in this
year, 1903, grilse have been in great abund-
ance, and it would have been, I think, easy
to rival the records of 1898 and 1899. It
is probable that in the poor years the propor-
tion of grilse killed to grilse running has been
larger than in the prolific years.

It will be remarked that the great grilse
runs of 1898 and 1899 were followed by great
captures of "gillings" in 1899 and 1900; and
that the scarcity of grilse in 1900 preceded a
great fall in the number of "gillings" in 1901.
The other figures point, less markedly, in the
same direction. It will be particularly in-
teresting to observe in 1904 whether, after the
present good grilse season, the " gillings " again
approach the high-water mark of 1899.

As regards fish of 13 Ib. and upwards, there
has been comparatively slight variation in the
numbers killed from year to year. They be-
long, as I believe, for the most part to an
older generation, and are affected as such by

GRILSE 121

so many other circumstances that they do not
touch the considerations advanced above.

Late in July, when the nights are growing
dark, great sport may sometimes be had with
grilse by fishing about midnight from either
shore of the tidal water, especially if the
angler takes a trout rod and tackle. It is
wonderful what a big fish a grilse becomes on
a single-handed rod. And sometimes a sea
trout of 5 or 6 Ib. will join in the fray. After
dark grilse, and indeed salmon, lie much closer
to the banks and in shallower water than in
broad daylight.

In the upper waters we always kill relatively
less grilse, compared with salmon, than below
the Fos. Probably they lie less in the regular
salmon pools than in the long and rather
shallow streams which we seldom fish. I
have often thought that if this water were
attached to a Scotch hotel, and flogged as
such waters are, fish would be killed in all
sorts of places which are now never tried.

Grilse, though very free risers when they
are rising at all, are subject at times to the
influences — atmospheric, or whatever they may
be — which prevent salmon from coming to the

122 A RIVER OF NORWAY

fly. There are days when they are jumping
all round one, but will look at nothing. When
they do take, they are not particular as to size
and pattern. They will, I think, take a larger
fly than a salmon, and a smaller. They are
certainly less "touchy." A salmon that has
risen at the fly, and felt the hook, will rarely
come again. A grilse (as Renan said of the
prophet Habakkuk) is capable de tout. He
will " pull " the hook again and again and
take it in the end. His appetite (or is it his
curiosity?) has a keen edge; and so he some-
times affords us sport, and he is always capital
eating ; but one never quite gets rid of the
feeling that it is a pity to kill him.

CHAPTER X

TROUT

' ' Friends of my youth, where are they ? "

— From the Arabic.

WHEN the salmon first ascended by means of
the ladder to the hitherto salmonless waters,
the surprise and, we may imagine, the indig-
nation of the original inhabitants, the common
river trout, must have been great. And with
the salmon came even worse marauders, the
active and irrepressible sea trout, who less
troubled than the salmon by a disordered
digestion and less impeded by a corpulent
frame, swallowed greedily such meagre food
as the river afforded, and must have worried
the poor Fario to distraction. But time
brought consolation and revenge. The pro-
tective wall of the Fos abolished, and a free
trade regime established, the new-comers com-
menced at once to deposit myriads of ova,
from which sprang countless little fishes. The
brown trout saw his opportunity ; he wel-

123

124 A RIVER OF NORWAY

corned this introduction of cheap and nourish-
ing food, and his active and lanky frame and
occasionally protruding lower jaw show that
he has been engaged in snapping it up ever
since.

From the point of view of a preserver of
salmon, trout are undeniably vermin. The
havoc wrought by them in the spawning
season is great, and the toll they levy on the
parr is unending. They are fairly numerous
in all parts of this river, but especially in the
smooth stretch above Second Fos. If one
trolls up that piece of water on a breezy day,
one is pretty sure to get a dozen fish, averag-
ing nearly a pound. The largest I have seen
weighed 3 lb., and took a salmon fly in the
pool below Alvaer Fos. It is curious that in
some pools they will come at the salmon fly
much more often than in others, and a great
nuisance they are. This is particularly the
case in Aamot's Pool; and many a time I
have felt a " pull," and given the " moderate
stroak " which old Franck enjoins, only to
find to my disgust that I must haul out a
thin unlovely 2-lb. trout. In the stomach of
such a fish, weighing, to be accurate, If lb.,

TROUT 125

my brother found a round pebble about three
inches in circumference, and weighing one
ounce. This must have been a troublesome
mouthful to get down.

The trout in these snow-fed waters of Wes-
tern Norway are usually poor specimens of the
race. Far other are their cousins in the forest
lakes and rivers on the Swedish side. Over
twenty years ago I spent many summers roam-
ing about Norway in search of trout-fishing.
The best I found was in the neighbourhood of
the great Faemund So, a lake forty miles long,
lying between the Christiania-Trondhjem rail-
way and the Swedish frontier. There were
grayling too, running up to 3 Ib. weight.
But fishing there had its disadvantages. The
flies that fattened the fish drove the angler
mad. It was then a difficult country to get
about in, and accommodation was scanty. A
tent, which I used, enabled one to get the
best sport, but tent life in a mosquito country
wants very good sport indeed to make it en-
durable. Now there is a road to the great
lake, and a steamer runs upon it. There are
more conveniences and doubtless fewer trout.
Sic transit gloria.

126 A RIVER OF NORWAY

If I have spoken disrespectfully of the trout
as "vermin," it is from no lack of apprecia-
tion of their merits — in their proper place,
and under suitable conditions. These lanky
hungry pirates of the western salmon rivers
are no credit to their kind. It is not only
among the forests of the Eastern frontier that
fine well-fed specimens are to be found. In
the lakes of the great central mountain mass,
the Jotunfjeld, a splendid race of trout, silvery,
pink-fleshed, more like salmon than trout,
are to be killed, or were, twenty years ago.
Some of these lakes are at as great an altitude
as 4000 feet above the sea, and are girt by glit-
tering snow peaks. The scene of the adven-
tures of the " Three in Norway " is laid among
these surroundings, and on these waters. My
visits to that glorious region were made at
about the same period as theirs ; now, from
what I can learn, trout have diminished as
travellers have increased. Again in the wilds
of Thelemarken, and on the borders of that
great waste, the Hardanger Vidde, I have
killed in lake and river a sufficiency of fine
yellow trout, free risers, game to the death,
fit for a king's table. Probably good sport

TROUT 127

may still be had there ; but the angler must be
content to turn his back on the road and its
comforts, to live laborious days, and not to be
too critical of his night's lodging.

The inhabitants of that remote region were
not all as unsophisticated as the trout. On
the shore of a lonely mountain lake we found
a solitary man living in a hut. A boat lay
on the strand below, and a mile off, where
the river left the lake, was a tempting island,
evidently designed by nature for an angler's
camp. We approached him with a request
for the loan of the boat, for leave to pitch our
tent upon the island, and for permission to
fish. He was not enthusiastic, but, after some
hours' thought, gave an apparently grudging
assent to our proposals, in consideration of a
payment of four krone (four and sixpence) a
day. We stayed there a fortnight, and it was
not until we had crossed a mountain pass that
we learnt from another Norwegian, that neither
the boat, nor the island, nor the fishing, were
the property of our friend. However, we were
pleased with our sport, and he, I presume,
with his windfall of krone.

And for our part we should have been hard

128 A RIVER OF NORWAY

to please if we had not been satisfied with our
fishing. As often happens in Norway, the exit
of the river from the lake — that particular spot
where it had almost ceased to be a lake, and had
hardly yet begun to be a river — was alive with
fish. It is quality rather than quantity that the
trout-fisher wants. Almost every lake or stream
in the country will afford an abundance of
fingerlings, but you soon tire of filling your
creel with fish that give you no trouble to kill,
and are little good to you when killed. If you
can find running water, not a lake, in which are
trout averaging nearly a pound, with an occa-
sional monster, you are in luck's way. And
such were the trout here. It was a stiff climb
down the rocks by the side of the river, but every
rocky pool would yield a trout to the fly, and
a dozen or two of such fish make a good day's
sport. Neither here, nor in any other river did
we kill with the fly a trout weighing more than
a few ounces over 3 Ib. ; those who care to use
a minnow may get larger fish. Once in a river
over the Swedish border, a big trout seized a
small grayling which had taken my companion's
fly, and as he allowed himself to be dragged
almost to the shore without letting go, I just

TROUT 129

succeeded in getting the landing-net under him
in time. He weighed 4J lb., and I have never
seen a finer fish, and never captured another in
such singular fashion.

Those who are young and enterprising and
vigorous, will get more fun out of such wander-
ings than from the more settled and regular
pursuit of salmon. The quest of the trouts'
habitat will give them almost as much amuse-
ment as their capture when it is found ; the
dreary months spent away from Norway will be
enlivened by a continual study of the map, and
a calculation of altitudes and routes ; and the
secret of the Elysium, when it is discovered, will
be jealously guarded as a precious possession.

July is quite early enough for such excur-
sions on the high fells. In June the trout are
still in poor condition, and the snow may still
cause difficulty in getting about. Even in July
it can be very cold of nights at an altitude of
three or four thousand feet. August is some-
times a good month in the higher regions, but
the northern summer is already beginning to
wane, and the northern night has lost its char-
acteristic charm.

Even a quarter of a century ago, to get good

I

130 A RIVER OF NORWAY

trout-fishing it was necessary to shun the haunts
of man. And with the increase of hotels, and
of tourists to be fed, the trout were netted
and " ottered " till in some waters they were
well-nigh exterminated. Happily for the tourist
angler who does not wish to rough it, this is
now bringing its own cure. The innkeepers
finding in the trout fisher a mine worth work-
ing, are taking up lakes and preserving them
for fly-fishing only, making a regular charge for
the right of fishing and the use of boats. This
is sensible and business-like, but the old romance
is dead.

In the tidal water here we frequently kill
small brown trout. Probably they have been
washed over the fall, and it has not occurred
to them to use the ladder to return. They do
not seem to grow to any size there. In some
rivers very large brown trout haunt the brackish
water at the mouth, and I have killed fairly
good brown trout at the foot of a sheer fall
falling direct into a fjord. In the tidal water
below the fall at the mouth of that fine Irish
river, the Erne, enormous brown trout are killed.
They are said to live chiefly on the elvers which
ascend to the river in the summer months.

TROUT 131

Of sea trout we have no great run here, nor
are they of any considerable size. I think
7 lb. is the greatest weight we have recorded.
Lars was of opinion that there were less than
there used to be, and I hope he may have
been right. I have heard of more than one
Norwegian river where a falling off of sea trout
has been followed by a great increase of salmon.

The run of sea trout is nothing like as regular
as that of salmon, and varies very much in
different years. I fancy that in some seasons
they come here, and in others ascend one of the
minor rivers which enter the fjord between Osen
and the sea. From observation in Norway and
elsewhere, I believe that sea trout prefer a river
which gives them access to a lake within a few
miles of the tideway. In some of the rivers of
the great Sogne-fjord, the fjord immediately to
the south of ours, very heavy sea trout run in
July and August, a 20-pounder being by no
means uncommon. Whether they are all the
true Salmo Trutta I do not know. No such
fish are to be found here.

Sea trout fishing has been much extolled in
angling books, but it is of course inferior to
salmon fishing, and in the opinion of many to

132 A RIVER OF NORWAY

good brown-trout fishing in a river. Yet your
sea trout is an attractive fish ; a bold riser when
in the mood ; a dashing fighter when hooked ;
often indeed in his reckless leaps and rushes
seeming to be more in the air than in the water ;
and when fresh-run a splendid vision of silvery
sleekness. When a run is on, fish for him an
hour after sunset with a light rod and fine tackle,
and you will not regret having for once deserted
his nobler kinsman.

Otters are said to abound in the valley, but
I have never seen one. It is possible that they
do some good in thinning out the trout, but
they must also do a great deal of mischief
among the salmon in the spawning season.

" Would you preserve a numerous finny race ?
Let your fierce dogs the ravenous otter chase ;
The amphibious monster ranges all the shores,
Darts through the waves and every haunt explores ;
Or let the gin his roving steps betray
And save from hostile jaws the scaly prey." l

In the absence of a pack of otter hounds, it
has been suggested to me to offer a reward for
each otter captured. But such measures often
have an unexpected result. Years ago the

1 John Gay, Rural Sports, Canto 1.

TROUT 133

Norwegian Government paid a reward of two
krone for every pair of eagles' claws, eagles
being very destructive to the sheep on the hills.
In a remote valley a farmer took me with
much pride to see a barn full of young eagles
which he was rearing to maturity with a view
to turning an honest penny. Presumably the
Norwegian Government, though strongly Pro-
tectionist, had not intended to encourage home
industries to this extent. In the same way
I have heard that the ingenious Hindoo took
to breeding wolves when the British Govern-
ment set a price on their heads.

Far more troublesome than otters here are
seals, great enemies of both net fishermen and
anglers. It is said that a single seal has been
known to empty a net of its contents in a night.
They are sometimes numerous in the fjord, and
no doubt they not only kill many fish, but
scare those which are travelling to the river.
But when they are emboldened actually to come
up into the river itself the results are simply
disastrous. What becomes of the salmon I
cannot say, but they neither take nor show.
I was standing one day on a rock close to the
entrance of the fish-ladder, when a seal put his

134 A RIVER OF NORWAY

head out of the water within three yards of me.
1 was not expecting to see a seal, and he was
not expecting to see me, and I cannot say which
was the more startled. He had certainly taken
up a strategic position, with a view to cutting
off fish that were making for the ladder. I
have seen a seal's head emerge from the water
a few yards below my companion's fly. It is
needless to say that the angler had no sport.
The only consolation is that when we see seals,
it means as a rule that a big shoal of fish is
running, and that when we have scared the
seals away, our turn will come.

CHAPTER XI

FLIES

" (), what a tangled web we weave
When first we practise to deceive.''

— SCOTT, Marmion.

Or flies and fly making there is no end. Not
only has every important river in the British
Isles developed its own type, but these types
have been intermingled and modified, to the
infinite advantage of tackle-makers and the con-
fusion of honest anglers. Recently a gallant
attempt has been made by Mr. Baden-Powell
in the opposite direction, and we are presented
with half-a-dozen patterns, in which the advan-
tages of all known flies are combined, a series
of pocket epitomes of the whole art of fly-
tying. When this process is fully developed,
we shall no longer be troubled to change our
Jock Scot for a Silver Doctor ; the salient
features of each will be offered to the fish,
combined chemically in a tabloid form.

The conditions of Norwegian salmon fishing

135

136 A RIVER OF NORWAY

have prevented the growth of a variety of local
patterns such as Scotland and Ireland are
plagued with. The English angler has brought
with him, as a rule, examples of certain well-
known and standard patterns, and his Norwegian
attendant has accepted them with stolid indiffer-
ence as a natural part of the Englishman's
wonderful outfit. If I showed a fly to Lars,
and asked his opinion of it, he would wait until
he had carefully felt the point of the hook with
his thumb, and if he found it sharp, would pro-
nounce the fly good enough. And here, I
believe, he hit on a great truth, often forgotten
by our local practitioners, that the quality of
the iron is of greater importance than the fur
and feathers with which it is decked. Better a
rough fur body and a simple turkey wing on a
good wire with a firmly-tied loop, than the
finest creation of silks and toppings on a badly-
tempered hook and a loop that draws.

And so it happens, that in Norway most
anglers use but few patterns, and those chiefly
the well-tried "standards." The Jock Scot
and its derivatives; the Rangers, Durham and
Black; the Doctors, Black, Silver and Blue;
if to these we add the Black Dose, the Benchill,

FLIES 137

and the Dusty Miller, we shall have enumerated
the chief contents of the angler's book. The
man who ties his own flies will naturally go
further afield ; to a greater or less extent as his
temperament is imitative or creative.

The main rules for these clear-water snow-
fed rivers I take to be as follows : — in bright
sun a silverbodied fly with (say) a Blue Doctor
as a change ; on a dark day a Jock Scot ; on a
clear night a Black Doctor ; on a cloudy night
the most striking pattern you can find, say a
Durham Ranger. I give these merely as types
which I have personally found successful in
the given circumstances. They are capable of
almost infinite variation. I have yet to experi-
ence the conditions in which the Jock Scot will
not kill. A variety of it, the Blue Jock Scot,
has this year proved eminently successful in
bright weather.

A few of Mr. Kelson's sun-flies and other
" startlers " may be useful for fish that are
wearied with the sight of the ordinary lures.
Something may sometimes be done by a start-
ling change of size. It has happened to me to
fish Second Fos in dead-low water late in July
with tiny flies without avail, and then as the

138 A RIVER OF NORWAY

shades of night were closing in to put up a
4/0 Black Doctor, and quickly hook my fish.

It is this question of size on which the
angler's success chiefly depends. On our tidal
water we have exceptional opportunities of
observing the effect of different sizes, in vary-
ing heights of water and changing conditions
of light. Within the twenty-four hours we
have killed fish on such widely differing hooks
as a No. 2 Silver Grey, and a 7/0 Durham
Ranger. The last is an extreme instance, but
in the rough water at the head of Lervik
Pool, in a big river, on an unusually dark
night, it has often done its work.

Whether fish are colour-blind, as some assert,
or not, these Norwegian salmon certainly do
not seem to have any decided preferences in
that respect. If there is a choice, perhaps
red is the colour most appreciated ; a view
which runs counter to the story told by old
Pontoppidan of a fisherman in this district of
Sondfjord : — " They say the Salmon has a great
aversion to any thing red ; so that the fisher-
men that watch this fish, must never wear
red jackets nor caps of that colour : a certain
person here in Sundfjord for that reason took

FLIES 139

all the red tiles off from the top of his house,
which is just by the water-side, and covered
it with blue ones." So do we change claret
fur for blue silk, perhaps with equal reason.

On the whole, we have invariably found
that the Black Doctor or the Black Dose, or
a fly of similar darkness, is unsurpassed in that
twilight between sunset and dawn which we
call night in Norway. As a fly-tier 1 natur-
ally prefer my own variety, which is as
follows : —

TAG. — Silver twist, and yellow silk.

TAIL. — A topping, Teal and Chatterer.

BODY. — Two-thirds black silk ; followed by one-third

scarlet seal's fur. Oval silver tinsel ribs.
HACKLE. — A natural black hackle up the body; gallina

at throat.

WINGS. — Two tippets, back to back, veiled with Teal,
Gold Pheasant tail, Peacock herl and Mal-
lard. A topping over all.
HORNS. — Blue Macaw.
CHEEKS. — Light blue Chatterer.

I omit Jungle Cock in the wings, because I
think that in this clear water, unless it be
on a very dark night, or in a very big river,
it is of doubtful advantage. I attach much
importance to the Chatterer cheeks. Except
the topping, nothing has such a lifelike gleam

140 A RIVER OF NORWAY

in the water. With regard to tippets for
wings, I have some black and white, instead
of the ordinary red and white, from (I think)
a cross between Reeve's Pheasant and the
Silver Pheasant, which I owe to the kindness
of a friend. These I find very useful.

There are few of the accessories of angling
from which more pleasure may be got than
the practice of tying one's own flies. Not
only is the satisfaction of luring a fish thereby
vastly increased ; but one is never subjected
to the annoyance of running short of the
particular pattern or size, which the fish are
believed to be taking. In the bright days of
July, when it is better to wait till the sun
is off the water before disturbing it, time
often hangs heavy on the angler's hands ; if
he is a fly-tier, never. There is always some
job to be done ; if not a new and striking
creation to be worked out, destined to eclipse
all predecessors, at least an old fly to be fitted
with a new tail. Tying flies is a very easy
art to acquire up to a certain point; to excel
needs some practice and a certain neatness of
finger. Many are deterred by a belief that
an immense outfit of materials is necessary.

FLIES 141

This idea has been fostered by writers for
centuries.

" To frame the little animal, provide
All the gay hues that wait on female pride,
Let Nature guide thee ; sometimes golden wire
The shining bellies of the fly require ;
The peacock plumes thy tackle must not fail,
Nor the dear purchase of the sable's tail,
Each gaudy bird some slender tribute brings,
And lends the growing insect proper wings ;
Silks of all colours must their aid impart,
And every fur promote the fisher's art.
So the gay lady, with expensive care,
Borrows the pride of land, of sea, and air ;
Furs, pearls and plumes, the glittering thing displays,
Dazzles our eyes, and easy hearts betrays." l

In fact the materials required for a beginner
are of the simplest. A sovereign or two will
purchase all the silks, furs, tinsels and feathers
that are necessary. Others are acquired as
time goes on. A discarded fly will often yield
a topping to give sheen to a new one. The
poultry yard will make its contribution ; friends
will send their offerings, and in time the col-
lection of feathers so acquired will have a
special value in its owner's eyes. Like fish-
ing, fly-tying cannot perhaps be learnt wholly
from books ; a lesson or two from a fly -tying

1 John Gay, Rural Sports, Canto 1.

142 A RIVER OF NORWAY

friend, or from a professional to begin with, and
then the books become of value.

To Walton or to his detractor Franck1 the
fly-tier will hardly go for practical instruction.
Of all the successors of these worthies, I know
only one from whom the art may be acquired
with ease and certainty. Captain Hale's " How
to Tie Salmon Flies " (London, 1892) is a marvel
of lucidity and thoroughness. It is rare to find
a writer with such a gift of giving practical
directions in such a plain and intelligible
manner. The illustrations, in which every
stage of the process is depicted, are as good
as the text. For my part, I gratefully acknow-
ledge that whatever facility I have acquired in
tying flies is mainly due to this excellent
manual. Unfortunately for future generations
the book is out of print, and difficult to
procure.

Mr. Kelson's book, "The Salmon Fly," is
useful to the fly-tier for its large collection of

1 " Northern Memoirs, calculated for the Meridian of Scotland,
writ in the year 1658 by Richard Franck, Philanthropus. " A scarce
book, of which a new edition, said to have been edited by Sir
Walter Scott, was published in 1821. The verbose pedantry of
Franck makes it almost impossible to read him, but he undoubtedly
understood the practice of salmon-fishing with the fly, and it is
amusing to dip into the book.

FLIES 143

patterns, and its excellent plates. But its in-
structions in fly-making lack the lucidity of
Captain Hale. Sir Herbert Maxwell's delightful
" Salmon and Sea-trout," the only blot on which
is the reproduction of crude illustrations of tackle
from tackle-makers' catalogues, contains some
useful hints. If the angler is curious as to the
local patterns of British and Irish rivers, he will
find them set forth by the late Mr. Francis
Francis in " A Book on Angling " (London, 1867,
and later editions), more fully than elsewhere.

But from whatever source instruction may
best be drawn, I would say to the angler in
Norway, " Do not on any account omit to learn
how to tie a fly, if you feel that you have the
slightest aptitude. The practice will stand you
in good stead, if only for repairs, and it will
save you from the boredom which sometimes
besets the unemployed in the long hours when
fishing is out of the question. And do not be
deterred by the fear that you will never be able
to rival the neat productions of the professional.
The fish will like your rough flies quite as well,
and when you have of set purpose changed the
hackle of a standard pattern, or modified the
wing, and with the result brought to bank the

144 A RIVER OF NORWAY

long-hoped-for 40-pounder, great will be your
satisfaction and your lawful pride."

A word as to hooks. Whether the angler
uses eyed-hooks, as recommended by Captain
Hale, or hooks with gut loops attached, must be
left to his individual preference and judgment.
I think the gut loops are pleasanter to attach
to the cast, but the metal eyes last for ever.
It is a dreadful catastrophe for the loop of a
fly to draw from the hook, and this has been
known to occur in the case of old flies, the
tying silk and varnish having perished. The
ordinary Limerick hook, now almost universally
used for salmon flies, frequently has the point
too much turned in. My attention was called
by a letter in the Field a few months ago,
to a type of hook with a point not parallel to
the shank, but turned somewhat away from it.
The writer claimed that of fish hooked he lost a
far smaller proportion than with ordinary hooks.
As I had previously had an idea that some such
change would be beneficial, I gave the hooks an
extended trial this year, and can thoroughly cor-
roborate the claims made for them by the writer
in the Field. Of fish that rose to the fly, I
certainly hooked quite as large a proportion as

FLIES 145

usual, and of fish that were hooked, I scarcely
lost one. These are known as Major Fraser's
hooks, and they are to be obtained of Messrs.
Farlow & Co.

Improvements in fishing tackle have been
done to death in recent years, and it is doubt-
ful whether there is so great an improvement
after all. Certainly one of the many charms of
salmon fishing with the fly is that you want
so little in the way of apparatus. Your rod
and reel, your line and cast, your box of flies ;—
with less you cannot do ; more is superfluity.
It is when you come to the baser arts, to the
use of prawn and gudgeon, that the day of
queerly twisting reels, of cunning swivels, and
complicated tackles, begins. But there is one
modern invention which I consider of great
advantage to the fly fisherman — Mr. Kelson's
lever winch. To be able to alter the check
of your winch when playing a fish is often
very useful, and a little practice leads you to
play a fish in this manner as a matter of
course. These reels are made of a light alloy
of aluminium, and you can therefore use one
which has a very big drum, with only a mo-
derately heavy rod.

146 A RIVER OF NORWAY

Given your tackle and your flies, the proper
use of them can only be acquired by practice
at the water-side. When you have attained
to a certain proficiency, the instructions of
the books may give a finish to your style.
The main principle of fishing the fly is to
cast well down and across the stream, and to
keep your line as straight as possible from
the fly to the point of the rod. Then as it
takes its zigzag course across the pool, every
fibre of the fly will spread out and close again
over the body — it will be a creature endowed
with life. But even more important than this,
is to get over your fish. Your attendant will
generally indicate their position ; but with an
untrained Norwegian you will sometimes have
the additional pleasure of finding it out for
yourself. If they are lying too far out to
reach in the orthodox diagonal way, cast
straight across the river to them. The stream
will snatch your line, and make a big curve
of it ; your fly will follow head-down stream,
a shapeless, inert mass ; but perchance a fish
will follow it out of curiosity until the moment
when, the line straightening, it has taken the
semblance of a living thing, and then will

FLIES 147

seize it. I remember hearing a critic say, " I
can't think how Claude gets all those fish. He
throws his line across the river ; it goes round
all in a heap, and when it straightens there
is a fish at the end." Claude knew what he
was about.

Norway is not always a good school for
anglers. A novice will often learn much more
by taking a rod on a well-fished river at
home, where he will probably be able to
watch first-rate performers, and where his gillie
will be an expert. Here he may have to
puzzle out many problems for himself. Often
he will get little information from the ignorant
or uncommunicative Norwegian, and there is
the barrier of an unknown tongue.

But to the angler who has learnt his craft,
and is not in a hurry, this is an unmitigated
advantage. He will be his own master, and
not the mere creature of a tyrannical servant.
The tendency of all sport is to exalt the in-
fluence of the professional ; but in this un-
sophisticated country we may still select our
own flies, and fish them when and where we
think best.

CHAPTER XII

NORWEGIAN FISHING, OLD AND NEW

tc We were the first that ever burst
Into that silent sea."

— COLERIDGE, The Ancient Mariner.

THE fisherman who is also bookish (and since
the time of Izaak Walton your angler has ever
been held to have at least a nodding acquaint-
ance with Literature), will turn with interest
to those books which give any account of the
adventures of the early pioneers of salmon
fishing in Norway. The printed records of
their sport are few ; and it would interest many
of the present generation if the owners of any
old fishing diaries would publish the pith of
them in the Field or elsewhere.

The first English anglers of whom there is
any record visited Norway seventy or eighty
years ago. These early adventurers must have
had something of the Elizabethan heroes in
their blood. An expedition nowadays to fish
the great African lakes would be a less arduous

148

NORWEGIAN FISHING 149

undertaking than was then a journey to the
Namsen, their Mecca. We read of occasional
merchant ships sailing for Norwegian ports ;
but the more certain route was by " com-
modious and powerful steam packets to Ham-
burg " ; whence the traveller had before him
a long and toilsome journey by road or coast-
ing steamer through Denmark and Sweden to
Christiania and thence to Trondhjem.

The earliest book with which I am ac-
quainted, in which may be found any con-
siderable account of salmon fishing in Norway
is Belton's " Two Summers in Norway "
(London, 1840). In 1837 the author reached
Mediaa on the Namsen on the 14th July.
According to his account, the river had been
unknown to anglers, " until about seven or
eight years ago, a couple of Irishmen, who had
heard of the fame of the Namsen, penetrated to
Fiskum Fos ; of which they brought back such
a report, that many have been induced to follow
their steps." But in 1837, until his arrival,
not a single angler had been heard of. He
gives an interesting account of the river, and
regrets that such a big water can only be fished
by harling. " This is doubtless a very killing

150 A RIVER OF NORWAY

method ; for if the boat be well managed, the
fly can be presented in the most tempting
manner to almost every salmon in the river.
But on the other hand, it reduces the inex-
perienced Tyro, and the accomplished Angler,
nearly to the same level . . . the hooking a
fish depends at least as much upon the boat-
men, as the fisherman. This is the great defect
of the Namsen, as an angling river." Fishing
thirty-one days, he caught 106 salmon and
grilse, which together weighed 1558 pounds.

In 1839 Belton returned to Norway. He
crossed the Fille-fjeld to Laerdalsoren, and un-
successfully tried the Laerdal River. In the
light of the reputation that river has deservedly
acquired, it is delightful to read his verdict :
" I saw enough to convince me there never can
be good angling here, as the bed is too shallow,
and the stream too rapid, for salmon to remain
long in any of the lower pools." On his arrival
at the Namsen he was distressed to find that
he was not to have the river to himself, but
was obliged to share it with three other English
anglers. Also he was annoyed by native "in-
terlopers," many of the peasants having taken
to the sport. He had an erroneous idea that

NORWEGIAN FISHING 151

fishing was perfectly unrestricted throughout
Norway, and that if he gave half the fish killed
to the riparian owners, he was doing a gracious
act ; and he seems to have been astonished at
the rapacity of some of the landowners who
did not welcome him on these terms. Little
did he foresee the conditions under which his
successors fish to-day. This year in thirty-
three days fishing he killed 147 salmon and
grilse, and nine white trout, together amounting
to 1772 pounds.

On leaving the Namsen, Belton visited some
of the rivers south of Trondhjem : but it was
now September, and his judgment on the
Orkla (one of the best rivers in Norway to-day),
that it "is not worthy of retaining an angler
for even a day from better streams " was given
on insufficient grounds. In the Rauma he
killed a fish of 21 Ib. He describes the river
as much netted and full of traps. His remarks
on other rivers are mostly at second-hand,
and of no great importance, but his book
generally is of interest and value as a picture
of sport and travel in Norway sixty-five years
ago.

In 1842 Mr. John Milford published " Norway,

152 A RIVER OF NORWAY

and her Laplanders, in 1841 ; with a few hints
to the Salmon Fisher." The hints are not
valuable. He refers the reader to Mr. Belton's
volumes, which, however, he fears "by ex-
patiating on the merits of Norway, its facilities,
and unexampled sport, have peopled the once
lonely river banks with our erratic country-
men." His views of the future are very
pessimistic : — " The fishing will every day
diminish ; the feree naturae of course recede
before civilisation ; man is doomed to be their
master and destroyer. The Norwegians, who
are excellent in copying, although slow in in-
vention, have already begun to imitate those
processes which the English angler has taught
them." They now construct rude flies ; and
if they cannot "kill many fish, either by their
aid, or by that of the worm or the net, they
nevertheless by constantly troubling and worry-
ing the waters, drive the salmon away, make
them shy, and spoil the sport of the scientific
professor, who has come more than a thousand
weary miles only to find himself anticipated
by those who, like the heron, live on the river
bank, and never miss an opportunity."

Like Mr. Belton, Mr. Milford seems to have

NORWEGIAN FISHING 153

believed that the earth was designed for the
amusement of Englishmen.

In 1848 appeared "Jones's Guide to Norway
and Salmon Fisher's Pocket Companion."
Jones was a tackle maker in Jermyn Street, and
dedicates the book to one of his customers,
Sir Hyde Parker. The Namsen is still "the
king of salmon rivers," and the rivers of the
Bergen and Stavanger districts are still ignored ;
but particulars are given of the Rauma, the
Sundal, the Orkla, the Gula, and other rivers.
In the last chapter the angler is taken to the
Far North, to the Alten, the Reisen, and the
Tana. The publication of such a book shows
to what an extent the vogue of Norwegian
fishing had increased in the few years following
the issue of Belton's work. It is a difficult
book to procure nowadays; but with its naive
style, and its excellent coloured plates of flies,
it is an attractive little volume.

In his " Scandinavian Adventures " (London,
1854), Mr. L. Lloyd was at pains to collect
the experiences of various anglers, such as Sir
Hyde Parker, Sir Charles Blois, Mr. Dann,
Mr. Fosbrooke, and others, chiefly in the period
between 1840 and 1850. There is little in

154 A RIVER OF NORWAY

these records which would appear remarkable
to-day. But the note of pessimism is present.
Sir Hyde Parker, one of the best known of the
early anglers, and the captor of a 60-pound
fish in the Namsen, writes : " In Norway every
man is now a fisherman, and many of the waters
are hired, so that it is difficult to get a cast to
yourself; and I consider the game nearly up,
at least for an old one like myself, and not
worth going the distance. There are few flog-
ging rivers, all dragging, which levels all, and
skill avails nothing."

Lloyd's " Scandinavian Adventures " is a mine
of information on all matters connected with
Northern sport and natural history ; few better
books are to be found on the sportsman's
shelves.

We have seen that already — before 1850 —
the best waters were beginning to be rented
for the exclusive use of anglers. This was not
always an easy business to arrange. The land
being held in small parcels by peasant pro-
prietors, it was sometimes necessary, in order
to obtain an extensive right, to come to terms
with thirty or forty individuals. But the lease
once settled, the angler's position was secure ;

NORWEGIAN FISHING 155

and there was an honourable understanding
that one Englishman should not interfere with
another already in possession.

A generation later, when I first knew
Norway, this was the prevailing system. It
may almost be described as a case of "one
man, one river " — certainly as far as the
smaller rivers were concerned. In each
valley an Englishman held sway, holding the
fishing rights of the choicest part of the water
direct from the landowning peasantry ; the
upper and lower waters being more or less
derelict, and trapped and netted at the owner's
will. It was a system which, with the im-
provement of communications and the influx
of other anglers, was bound to fail. At that
time the townsfolk had not yet seen the
advantage of combining business with pleasure,
of getting their sport arid making the English-
man pay for it (and a little over), which they
have since grasped. But when they took
up the game, they played it to the utmost.
Gradually every scrap of available water was
taken up by syndicates in Bergen and else-
where. When the Englishmen's leases fell in,
they found that they had to compete with

156 A RIVER OF NORWAY

these new-comers ; and being foreigners, and
sportsmen rather than men of business, they
were quite unable to meet effectively the
methods of their rivals. The result was that
many lost their water; others had to choose
between losing it, or accepting the restricted
terms which were offered to them, and a
great deal of ill-feeling was engendered. And
so the modern system of dividing rivers into
beats, and letting those beats by the season,
or the month, came into being.

These speculators in rivers were much
assisted by the Norwegian law which pro-
vides that an alien may not acquire land
without the consent of the Crown, and may
not lease property for a longer period than
ten years. The Norwegians have a perfect
right to make such a law, but its effect has
been bad for the landowners, acting as a re-
striction on their market, and in practice
throwing them into the arms of these middle-
men— not always to their advantage, as many
now realise.

In the early days of this business there was
doubtless much chicanery, and even downright
fraud. I once rented a small river from a person

NORWEGIAN FISHING 157

of good position in Norway, and foolishly paid
the rent in advance. On my arrival at the
river, I found that he was not in possession
of the fishing rights of a very important part
of the water, and had I not been able to come to
terms with the proprietor on my own account,
I should have been unable to fish there. This
was not a very difficult business ; and the
incident was rather typical of the Norwegian
peasant's character. On the first day of my
visit I commenced to fish the most likely piece
of water. I had hardly wetted my line before
an old man toddled down from a neighbouring
house, and told me to go away. I mentioned
the name of the townsman to whom I had paid
the rent, but the old fellow shook his head and

signified that Herr had nothing to do with

it. Happily at this moment his curiosity came
to my rescue, and he inquired the cost of my rod.
This matter settled, I offered him my tobacco-
pouch, and while he was helping himself I
made a cast. As luck would have it, I hooked
a grilse, and when this was killed and presented
to the old man we became fast friends. Within
a week he cut down some trees to facilitate my
casting, and I fished his water to our mutual

158 A RIVER OF NORWAY

satisfaction for the rest of my stay. Whether
he ever got any of the rent I do not know.
It is doubtful.

In another case within my knowledge, a long
stretch of river above a fos, which salmon were
never able to surmount, was let to Englishmen.
A ladder was projected, but not yet made.
The lessor netted a few fish below, and carried
them to the upper water, and on the strength
of this advertised and let it as a salmon
river.

But the business has become too big a one
to be conducted any longer on these lines, and
I have no reason to doubt that the managers
of the Bergen syndicates are honestly anxious
to improve the fishing and to attract customers.
Certainly they have done good work in buying
off traps and nets ; with the result that certain
waters, until recently considered useless, are
now affording good sport. The rents asked
are very high. A perusal of an agent's cata-
logue leads me to the conclusion that they are
calculated on a basis of about seven and six-
pence per pound killed in the best of previous
seasons, and they have a decided tendency to
increase.

NORWEGIAN FISHING 159

So much for the conditions of angling ; but
what of the fish ? The last few seasons have
seen a great increase of netting in the fjords.
This may partly be due to the educational effect
of the Bergen Fishery Exhibition of 1898. It
was visited by great numbers of excursionists
from the surrounding country, and they had
the opportunity of studying there the latest
developments in fish-catching apparatus. Since
then, several nets have been put out within two
miles of the mouth of our river. It appears
that they do not catch much, as it happens
that they cannot be set in the direct course of
running fish. It is probable that some were
started in the hope that I should buy them off,
as suggestions were offered me to that effect.
But to do so is a hopeless business, and would
only be the signal for a fresh crop. It is
difficult to learn what goes on, but I am
informed that one of these nets catches only
fish which are returning from the river, either
having broken our tackle, or having met with
an injury in the Fos or the ladder. If this is
true, it seems to show that fish return to the
sea by a different route from that by which they
come from it.

160 A RIVER OF NORWAY

But it is in the outer fjords that the chief
mischief is done. The hundreds of little islands,
which guard the entrances to the main fjords,
create a number of small channels, through some
of which fish must pass, and wherein (to their
own and our undoing) they often linger in the
early days of June ; and these channels are beset
with nets. The net-owners, as is the way of
their kind, are quite reckless of the future ; their
object is to kill all they can for an immediate
market; some even maintain, as a cloak for
their rapacity, that salmon spawn in the sea, and
that it is quite unnecessary to allow any to
ascend the rivers. If it were not for the fresh-
water anglers, chiefly English, by whom, or on
whose behalf, netting and trapping in the rivers
have been put a stop to, the race of salmon
would be in serious danger of extermination.
In many rivers hatcheries have been established,
and even if their influence is exaggerated, it can
scarcely but be beneficial in some degree to
net-owners and sportsmen alike. But it is hard
that the whole burden of protecting the race,
and providing for the future, should fall on
the riparian owners and their tenants.

There is a weekly close-time for nets, varying

NORWEGIAN FISHING 161

in different districts. Here, in North Bergen
County, it extends from 6 r.M. on Friday to

0 r.M. on Monday. At first sight this appears
liberal and sufficient ; but when it is remem-
bered that the mouths of the chief rivers are
distant between twenty-five and a hundred, or
more, miles from the open sea, it is obvious that
a fish, which has safely passed one netted reach
during the close time, runs a risk of being
caught further on a few days later, when the
nets are fishing. And there is also reason to
fear that the close-time is not strictly observed.
The temptation to fish when salmon are passing
is very great; the fines inflicted for a breach of
the law are ridiculously small ; and the methods
of inspection appear to be hopelessly inadequate.

1 had some reason this season to suspect that
all was not as it should be, and I wrote to the
Lensmand, a sort of police magistrate, on the
subject. He informed me that the inspector
was doing his duty, and that no cases of unlaw-
ful fishing had come to light. But what can a
man with a rowing boat do in the way of
supervising nets scattered over hundreds of
miles of coast ? And there is so much money

162 A RIVER OF NORWAY

in the nets, and so great local influence attaches
to their owners, that bribery and intimidation
can hardly be unknown. The Norwegian is,
in small things, a very honest man. There
seems, in the country at least, to be no petty
thieving, and we get into the habit of leav-
ing our possessions about in very careless
fashion. But in matters of business he is very
" slim," and the capture, in unlawful hours,
of salmon which do not belong to any one in
particular, will hardly appear to him a dishonest
act. The opinion of his fellows will be for,
rather than against, him ; at least, so I judge
from the general tone of references to the
subject.

Perhaps it may come to be considered worth
while for a combination of owners and les-
sees of river fisheries to maintain an inde-
pendent staff of inspectors, provided with steam
launches, and to undertake prosecutions. If
the Anglo-Norwegian Fishermen's Association
wishes to justify its existence, it might give
its attention to the matter. I understand
that the authorities raise no objection to such
private inspection ; that, indeed, they are will-

NORWEGIAN FISHING 163

ing to invest the inspectors with a badge of
office.

Bad as things are now, there is worse to
come. The net-owners are agitating for further
advantages, and it is believed that they will
obtain either an abbreviated close-time, or a
reduction in the legal size of the mesh. The
latter would be fatal to a large proportion of
the grilse which now reach the rivers, and, as
I have already pointed out, would be a foolish
and disastrous change.

No wonder there are not wanting pessimists
to declare that the days of Norwegian fishing
are numbered, and that a grant to the net-
owners of either of the above-mentioned con-
cessions will be the final blow. In bad seasons
this gloomy forecast holds the field ; in good, it
is forgotten. And as long as there are any
salmon left to fish for, the charm of Norway
will draw anglers. Our fish, fresh from the
bracing Arctic Seas, are the gamest and most
vigorous of their kind. We enjoy the delights
of spring-fishing, without suffering the rigours
of a British spring. We pursue our sport in
the height of summer, beneath the clear sky

164 A RIVER OF NORWAY

of the glorious northern night, in copious and
limpid waters, amid the grandest surroundings.
Add to these, that strange indescribable attrac-
tion of the north, which, if a man once feel it,
will never leave him.

INDEX

AAMOT'S Pool, 72, 94
Aaro, The, 43
Alvaer Fos, 84, 89
America, emigration to, 102
Animals, Norwegian treatment

of, 104
Armorial bearings, 99

BAIT-FISHING, 57
Bank, The, 8, 18, 22
Beaching fish, 19, 47
Belton, Mr.; "Two Summers

in Norway," 149
Birds, 98
Boatmen, 12
Boats, 93

Boers, sympathy with the, 105
Breton, Lieut. ; " Scandinavian

Sketches," 49
Bruce, A. F. ; "Salmon P;i--r-.

66
Bund, Mr. Willis, 119

CAXADA, fishing in, o7
Casting over fish, 146

from piers, 94

Chapman, Mr. Abel; "Wild

Norway," 30
Church services, 34
Churchyard, a neglected, 35

Clothes, the peasants', 34, 103
Communications, 100

Curiosity of Norwegians, 36,
157

DANCING, 100

Depletion of male population,
101

Distinguishing grilse from sal-
mon, 117

EMIGRANTS, returned, 78, 102,

105, 109
Emigration, 101

FA K .MI M) So1, 125

Fishing tackle, improvement! in,

145

Fish-pass, see Ladder
Flies, colour of, 138

- killing, 23

— size of, 138
<t;indard, 136

- types of, 137

— using two, 74
Fly-tying, 140

Fos at Osen, 7, 49, 59

— at Sande, 89
Francis Francis, Mr., 143

1C5

166

INDEX

Frauck, Richard; " Northern

Memoirs," 142
Funeral of Lars, 33
Fureuaes, 13, 74

GAFFING a fish, 39, 43

Gardening, 97

Goosanders, 69

Grey, Sir Edward, 53

Grilse, and fjord-nets, 117, 163

and "Billings," 119

and salmon, 117

early running, 116

fishing for, 121

importance of, 115

proportion of net-marked,

118

run of, 46, 63

Gula, The, 50, 153
Gwynn, Mr. Stephen, 27

HAL?:, Captain ; ' * How to Tie

Salmon Flies," 142
" Hands," importance of, 77
Hardanger Vidde, 126
Harling, 3, 70, 89, 149, 154
Hooks, importance of good, 136

eyed, 144

Major Fraser's, 145

Hours, best for fishing, 22
Houses, 103

JONES'S "Guide to Norway," 153
Jotunfjeld, The, 126

KELSON, Mr., his lever winch,
145

sun-flies, 137

"The Salmon Fly," 142

LADDER at Alvaer Fos, 87
- at Os Fos, 2, 59

at Second Fos, 81

Ladders, conditions of success-
ful, 65

Ladder Pool, 8

Laerdal River, 150

Laing, Mr. Samuel, 105, 10"

Lakes, effect of, 1, 2

trout, 125

Landmark, Herr, 9, 117

Lars, boatman, 12

his death and burial, 33

his characteristics, 36

Lervik Pool, 8, 17, 25, 40,
55

Lloyd's "Scandinavian Adven-
tures," 153

Logs, 53

Lower Stream, the, 8, 24, 47

MAXWELL, Sir H., 57, 117, 143

Midsummer, 101

Milford, Mr. J. ; "Norway in

1841," 151
Mosquitoes, 15, 119

NAMSEN, The, 50, 149, 153
Netting a pool, 26
Net-owners, improvidence of,

160
Nets in the fjords, 117, 160

increase of, 159

inspection of, 161

weekly close time, 160

Norway, charm of, 163
Norwegian names, 111
Norwegians and sport, 107
comparative equality of,

113

INDEX

107

OiiKr.A, The, 151, 153
()s Pool, 07
Osen, house at, 0, 97
Otters, 132

PARKKR, Sir Hyde, 154

Piers for casting, 94

Pioneers of Norwegian fishing,

148

Poaching, 05, 90, 110
Pontoppidan, Bishop —

on breeding of salmon, 31

on fish and colour, 138

on food of salmon, 30

on grilse, 115

on sea-lice, 32

Pools—

artificial, 70

shifting of, 71

- tidal, 7, 10, 58
Prawn, use of, 57, 01
90

RAFTS for casting, 94
Ran ma, The, 151
Rekavik, 75
Rivers, cost of renting, 158

fraud in letting, !•"»<;

leasing of, 154

— snow fed, 1

speculation in, 155

Rolf the Ganger, 102
Ropes and anchors, 55
Russia, Norway and, 107

SA<;K, Dean, 50
St. John's Eve, 100
Salmon, a hig, 23

— average weight, 3

Salmon, early run, 0

feeding in fresh water, 28,

31, 50

— heaviest, 3

— hooked in tail, 50

— improvement in size, 59,
93

— jumping, 18

— late running, 50

— red, 51

returning to fjord, 48

— rising, 52

— rising in deep water, 09

rising in still water, 84

run up ladder, 01

- small, 70, 117

— spawning, 27, 31, 93

— taking a fly, 29

— that go down, 74, 77, 83
Saiide, 40, 89

Sawdust, 54
Scenery, 10, 80, 100
Scott, Mr. Genio C., 05
Sea-lice, 18, 32, 48, 51, 03
Sea-trout, 70, 131
Seals, 133
Second Fos, 75, 81
Sluggish fish, 23, 08
Spring in Norway, 0, 15
Sundal River, 23
Sunday, the Norwegian, 40
Sweden, relations with, 107

TACKLE, bad, 38, 89
Temperature of water, 7, 03, 92
Thelemarken, 12(5
"Three in Norway," 108, 120
Tidal water, fishing in, 7, 10,

58

Tourists, 10
Traherne, Major, 22, 118

168

INDEX

Trees, cutting 93
Trout, brown, 86, 108

fishing on the high fjelds,

125

in salmon rivers, 1.24

in tidal water, 130

VKFSKN, the, 59
Vikings, the, 102

WEATHER, influence of, 80
Wooden houses, 103

THE END

Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON &•> Co.
Edinburgh &- London

H Classtfieb Catalogue

OF WORKS IN

GENERAL LITERATURE

PUBLISHED BY

LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.

39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.G.

91 AND 93 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, AND 32 HORNBY ROAD, BOMBAY

CONT

PAGE

BADMINTON LIBRARY (THE). - 12
BIOGRAPHY, PERSONAL ME-
MOIRS, &c. 9
CHILDREN'S BOOKS - - 32
CLASSICAL LITERATURE, TRANS-
LATIONS, ETC. - - - - 22
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MENT, &c. .... 36
EVOLUTION, ANTHROPOLOGY,
&c - - - - - - - >i

ENTS.

MENTAL, MORAL, AND POLITICAL*'
PHILOSOPHY - . i?

MISCELLANEOUS AND CRITICAL
WORKS ... 38

POETRY AND THE DRAMA - - 23

POLITICAL ECONOMY AND ECO-
NOMICS 20

POPULAR SCIENCE . 30
RELIGION, THE SCIENCE OF - 21
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STONYHURST PHILOSOPHICAL
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LANGUAGE, HISTORY AND
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TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE, THE
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INDEX OF AUTHO

Page , Page
Abbott (Evelyn) 3, 19, 22 Balfour (A. J.) - 13, 21
(J. H. M.) - 3 Ball (John) - - . 11
(T. K.) - -17,18 Banks (M. M.)- - 24
(E. A.) - 17 Baring-Gould (Rev.
Acland (A. H. D.) - 38.) - 21, 38
Acton (Eliza) - - 36 Barnett(S. A.andH.) 20
Adelborg (O.) - - 32 Baynes (T. S.) - - 38
^Eschylus - - 22 Beaconsfield (Earl of) 2s
Albemarle (Earl of) - 13 Beaufort (Duke of)
Alcock (C. W.) - 15 12, 13, 14
Allen (Grant) - - 30 Becker (W. A.) 22
Allgood (G.) - - 3 Beesly (A. H.) - - 9
Alverstone (Lord) - 15 Bell (Mrs. Hugh) - 23
Angwin (M. C.) - 36 Bent (J. Theodore) - n
Annandale (N.) 21 Besant (Sir Walter)- 3
Anstey (F.) - 25 Bickerdyke (J.) -14,15
Aristophanes - - 22 Bird (G.) 23
Aristotle - - - 17 Blackburne (J. H.) - 15
Arnold (Sir Edwin)- 11,23 Bland (Mrs. Hubert) 24
(Dr. T.) - - 3 Blount (Sir E.) - 9
Ashbourne (Lord) - 3 Boase (Rev. C. W.) - 6
Ashby (H.) - - 36 Boedder (Rev. B.) - 19
Ashley (W. J.) - - 3, 20 Bonnell (H. H.) - 38
Atkinson (J. J.) - 21 Booth (A. J.) - - 38
Avebury (Lord) - 21 Bottome (P.) - - 25
Ayre (Rev. J.) - - 31 | Bowen (W. E.) - 9
Bacon - - - 9,17 Brassey (Lady) - u
Bagehot (W.) - 9, 20, 38 Bright (Rev. J. F.) - 3
Bagwell (R.) - - 3 , Broadfoot (Major W.) 13
Bailey (H. C.) - - 25 '< Brooks (H. J.) - - 17
Baillie (A. F.) - - 3 • Brough (J.) - - 17
Bain (Alexander) - 17 Brown (A. F.) 32
Baker (J. H.) - - 38 Bruce (R. I.) - 3
(SirS. W.) - ii. 12 Buckland (las.) - 32
Baldwin (C. S.) - 17 ! Buckle (H. T.) - 3

RS AND EDITORS.

Page Page
Bull (T.) - - - 36 Crozier (J. B.) - - 9,17
Burke (U. R.) - - 3 Cutts (Rev. E. L.) - 6
Burne-Jones (Sir E.) 30 Dabney (J. P.) - - 23
Burns (C. L.) - - 36 Dale (L.) - 4
Burrows (Montagu) 6 Dallinger (F. W.) • 5
Campbell (Rev. Lewis) 21 Dauglish (M. G.) - 9
Casserlv (G.) 3 Davenport (A.) - 25
Chesney (Sir G.) 3 Davidson (A. M. C.) 22
Childe-Pemberton (W. (W. L.) - 17, 20, 21
S.) --- 9 Davies (J. F.) - - 22
Chisholm (G. C ) - 31 Dent (C. T.) - - 14
Cholmondeley-Pennell De Salis (Mrs.) - 36
(H.) - - 13 De Tocqueville (A.) - 4
Christie (R. C.) 38 Devas (C. S.) - - 19, 20
Churchill (Winston S.) 4, 25 Dewey (D. R.) - - 20
Cicero - - - 22 Dickinson (W. H.) - 38
Clarke (Rev. R. F.) - 19 Dougall (L.) - - 25
Climenson (E. J.) - 10 Dowden (E.) - - 40
Clodd (Edward) -21,30 Doyle (Sir A. Conan) 25
Clutterbuck (W. J.)- 12 ; Du Bois (W. E. B.)- 5
Cochrane (A.) - - 23 Dunbar (Mary F.) - 25
Cockerell (C. R.) - ii Dyson (E.) - - 26
Colenso(R. J.) - 36 Ellis (J. H.) - - 15
Conington (John) - 23 i (R. L.) - - 17
Conybeare(Rev.W. J.) Erasmus - 9
& Howson (Dean) 33 Evans (Sir John) - 38
Coolidge (W. A. B.) u Falkiner (C. L.) - 4
Corbett (Julian S.) - 4 Farrar (Dean) - - 20, 26
Coutts (W.) - - 22 Fite (W.) - - 17
Cox (Harding) - 13 Fitzmaunce (Lord E.) 4
Crake (Rev. A. D.) - 32 Folkard (H. C.) - 15
Crawford (J. H.) - 25 Ford (H.) - - - 16
Creed (S.) - - 25 Fountain (P - u
Creighton (Bishop) -4, 6, 9 Fowler (Edith H.) - 26
Cross (A. L.) - 5 Francis (Francis) - 16

INDEX OF AUTHORS AND EDITORS— continued.

Page

Page

Page Paee

Francis (M. E.) - 26

Jerome (Jerome K.) - 27

Nash (V.) --- 7

Stanley (Bishop) - 31

Freeman (Edward A,) 6

Johnson (J. & J. H.) 39

Nesbit (E.) - - 24

Stebbing (W.) - - 28

Fremantle (T. F.) - 16

ones (H. Bence) - 31

Nettleship (R. L.) - 17

Steel (A. G.) - - 13

Frost (G.)- - - 38

Joyce (P. W.) - 6, 27, 39

'Newman (Cardinal) - 28

Stephen (Leslie) - 12

Froude (James A.) 4,9,^1,26

Justinian- - - 18

Nichols (F. M.) - 9

Stephens (H. Morse) 8

Fuller (F. W.) - - 5

Kant (I.) - - 18

Oakesmith (J.) - - 22

Sternberg (Count

Furneaux (W.) - 30

Kaye (Sir J. W.) - 6

Ogilvie (R.) - - 22

Adalbert) - - 8

Gardiner (Samuel R.) 5

Keary(C. F.) - - 23

Oldfield (Hon. Mrs.) 9

Stevens (R. W.) - 40

Gathorne-Hardy (Hon.

Kelly (E.)- - - 18

Osbourne (L.) - - 28

Stevenson (R. L.) 25,28,33

A. E.) - - 15, 16

Kielmansegge (F.) - 9

Packard (A. S.) - 21

Storr(F.)- - - 17

Geikie (Rev. Cunning-

Killick (Rev. A. H.) - 18

Paget(SirJ.) - - 10

Stuart- Wortley (A. J.) 14,15

ham) ... 38

Kitchin (Dr. G. W.) 6

Park(W.) - - 16

Stubbs(J. W.)- - 8

Gibson (C. H.) - - 17

Knight (E. F.) - - n, 14

Parker (B.) - - 40

— (W.)- - - 8

Gilkes (A. H.) - - 38

Kostlin (J.) - - 10

Payne-Gallwey (Sir R.) 14,16

Suffolk & Berkshire

Gleig (Rev. G. R.) - 10

Kristeller (P.) - - 37

Pears (E.) 7

(Earlol) - - 14

Graham (A.) 5

Ladd (G. T.) - - 18

Pearse (H. H. S.) - 6

Sullivan (Sir E.) - 14

(P. A.) - - 15, 16

Lang (Andrew) 6 ,13, 14, 16,

Peek (Hedley) - - 14

Sully (James) - - 19

(G. F.) - - 20

21, 22, 23, 27, 32, 39

Pemberton (W. S.

Sutherland (A. and G.) 8

Granby (Marquess of) 15

Lapsley (G. T.) - 5

Childe-) - - 9

(Alex.) - - 19, 40

Grant (Sir A.) - - 17

Laurie (S. S.) - - . 6

Penrose (H. H.) - 33

Suttner (B. von) - 29

Graves (R. P.) - - 9

Lawrence (F. W.) - 20

Phillipps-Wolley(C.) 12,28

Swinburne (A. J.) - 19

(A. F.) - - 23

Lear (H. L. Sidney) - 36

Pierce (A. H.) - - 19

Symes (J. E.) - - -o

Green (T. Hill) - 17, 18

Lecky (W. E. H.) 6,18,23

Pole(W.)- - - 17

Tait(J.) ... 7

Greene (E. B.)- - 5

Lees (J. A.) - - 12

Pollock (W. H.) - 13, 40

Tallentyre (S. G.) - 10

Greville (C. C. F.) - 5
Grose (T. H.) - - 18

Leighton (t. A.) - 21
Leslie (T. E. Cliffe) - 20

Poole(W.H.andMrs-) 36
Poore (G. V.) - - 40

Tappan (E. M.) - 33
Taylor (Col. Meadows) 8

Gross (C.) - - 5

Lieven (Princess) - 6

Portman (L.) 28

Theophrastus 23

Grove (Lady) - - n
(Mrs. Lilly) - 13

Lillie (A.)- - - 16
LindleyQ.) - - 31

Powell (E.) - - 7
Powys (Mrs. P. L.) - 10

Thomas (J. W.) - 19
Thomson (H. C.) - 8

Gurnhill (J.) - - 18
Gwilt (T.) 31

Locock (C. D.) - 16
Lodge (H. C.) - - 6

Praeger (S. Rosamond) 33
Pritchett (R. T.) - 14

Thornhill (W. J.) - 23
Thornton (T. H.) - 10

Haggard (H. Rider)

Loftie (Rev. W. J.) - 6

Proctor (R. A.) 16, 30, 35

Thuillier (H. F.) - 40

11,26, 27, 38
Halliwell-PhillippsQ.) 10

Longman (C. J.) - 12, 16
(F.W.) - - 16

Raine (Rev. James) - 6
Ramal(W.) - - 24

Todd (A.) ... 8
Tout (T. F.) - - 7

Hamilton (Col. H. B.) 5

(G. H.) - - 13, 15

Randolph (C. F.) - 7

Toynbee (A.) - - 20

Hamlin (A. D. F.) - 36

(Mrs. C. J.) - 37

Rankin (R.) - - 8, 25

Trevelyan (Sir G. O.)

Harding (S. B.) - 5

Lowell (A. L.) - 6

Ransome (Cyril) - 3, 8

6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Hardwick (A. A.) - u

Lucian - - - 22

Reid(S.J.) - - 9

(G. M.) - - 7, 8

Harmsworth (A. C.) 13, 14

Lutoslawski (W.) - 18

Rhoades (J.) - - 23

(R. C.) - - 25

Harte (Bret) - - 27

Lyall (Edna) - - 27, 32

Rice (S. P.) - - 12

Trollope (Anthony)- 29

Harting(J. E.)- - 15
Hartwig (G.) - - 30
Hassall (A.) - - 8

Lynch (G.) - - 6
(H. F. B.)- - I2
Lytton (Earl of) - 24

Rich (A.) 23
Richmond (Ennis) - 19
Rickaby (Rev. John) 19

Turner (ri. G.) - 40
Tyndall (J.) - - 9, 12
Tyrrell (R. Y.) - - 22, 23

Haweis (H. R.) - 9, 36
Head (Mrs.) - - 37

Macaulay (Lord) 6,7,10,24
Macdonald (Dr. G.) - 24

(Rev. Joseph) - 19
RileyQ.W.) - - 24

Unwin (R.) 40
Upton(F.K.and Bertha) 33

Heath (D. D.) - - 17

Macfarren (Sir G. A.) 37

Roberts (E. P.) - 33

Van Dyke (J. C.) - 37

Heathcote (J. M.) - 14

Mackail (J. W.) - 10, 23

Robertson (W. G.) - • 37

Vanderpoel (E. N.) - 37

(C. G.) - - 14

Mackenzie (C. G.) - 16

Robinson (H. C.) - 21

Virgil - - 23

(N.) - - - ii

Mackinnon (J.) - 7

Roget (Peter M.) - 20, 31

Wagner (R.) - - 25

Helmholtz (Hermann

Macleod (H. D.) - 20

Romanes (G. J.) 10, 19,21,24

Wakeman (H. O.) - 8

von) --- 30

Macpherson(Rev.H.A.) 15

— (Mrs. G. J.) - 10

Walford (L. B.) - 29

Henderson (Lieut-

Madden (D. H.) - 16

Ronalds (A.) - - 17

Wallas (Graham) - 10

Col. G. F. R.) - 9

Magniisson (E.) - 28

Roosevelt (T.) - - 6

(Mrs. Graham) - 32

Henry (W.) - - 14

Maher (Rev. M.) - 19

Ross (Martin) - - 28

Walpole (Sir Spencer) 8, 10

Henty (G. A.) - - 32

Mallet (B.) - - 7

Rossetti (Maria Fran-

(Horace) - - 10

Higgins (Mrs. N.) - 9 Malleson (Col. G.B.) 6

cesca) 40

Walrond (Col. H.) - 12

Hill (Mabel) - - 5

Marbot (Baron de) - 10

Rotheram (M. A.) - 36

Walsingham (Lord)- 14

(S. C.) - - 5

Marchment (A. W.) 27

Rowe (R. P. P.) - 14

Ward (Mrs. W.) - 29

Hillier (G. Lacy) - i*
Hime (H. W. L.) - 22
Hodgson (Shadworth) 18

Marshman (J. C.) - 9
Maryon (M.) - - 39
Mason (A. E. W.) - 27

Russell (Lady) - - 10
Sandars (T. C.) - 18
Sanders (E. K.) 9

Warner (P. F.) - 17
Warwick (Countess of) 40
Watson (A. E. T.) 12, 13, 14

Hoenig(F.) - - 38
Hoffmann (J ) - « 30

Maskelyne (J. N.) - 16
Matthews (B.) - 39

Savage- Armstrong(G.F.)25
Scott (F. J.) - - 8

Weathers (J.) - - 40
Webb (Mr. and Mrs.

Hogan (J. F.) - - 9

Maunder (S.) - - 31

Seebohm (F.) - - 8, 10

Sidney) - - 20

Holmes (R. R.) - 10
Homer - - - 22

Max Miiller (F.)
10, 18, 20, 21, 22, 27, 39

Selous (F. C.) - - 12, 17
Senior (W.) - - 13, 15

(Judge T.) - 40
(T. E.) - - 19

Hope (Anthony) - 27

May (SirT.Erskine) 7

Seton-Karr (Sir H.)- 8

Weber (A.) - - 19

Horace - - - 22

Meade (L. T.) - - 32

Sewell (Elizabeth M.) 28

Weir (Capt. R.) - 14

Houston (D. F.) - 5
Howard (Lady Mabel) 27
Howitt(W.) - - ii

Melyille(G.J.Whyte) 27
Merivale (Dean) - 7
Merriman (H. S.) - 27

Shadwell (A.) - - 40
Shakespeare - - 25
Shaw (W. A.) - - 8

Wellington (Duchess of) 37
Wemyss(M. C. E.)- 33
Weyman (Stanley) - 29

Hudson (W. H.) - 30
Huish (M. B.) - - §7

Mill (John Stuart) - 18, 20
Millais (J. G.) - - 16, 30

Shearman (M.) - 12, 13
Sheehan (P. A.) - 28

Whatelv(Archbishop) 17,19
Whitelaw (R.) - - 23

Hullah(J.) - - 57
Hume (David) - - 18

Milner (G.) - - 40
Monck (W. H. S.) - 19

Sheppard (E.) - - 8
Sinclair (A.) - - 14

Whittall(SirJ. W. )- 40
Wilkins(G.) - - 2*

- (M. A. S.) - 3

Montague (F. C.) - 7

Skrine (F. H.) - 9

(W. H.) - - 10

Hunt (Rev. W.) - 6

Moore (T.) - - 31

Smith (C. Fell) - 10

Willard (A. R.) - 37

Hunter (Sir W.) - 6

(Rev. Edward) - 17

(R. Bosworth) - 8

Willich (C. M.) - 31

Hutchinson (Horace G.)

Moran (T. F.) - 7

(T. C.) - - 5

Wood (Rev. J. G.) - 31

13, 16, 27, 38
Ingelow (Jean) - 23
Ingram (T. D.) - 6

Morgan (C. Lloyd) - 21
Morris (W.) - 22,23,24,
27, 28, 37, 40

(W. P. Haskett) 12
Somerville (E.) - 28
Sophocles - - 23

Wood-Martin (W. G.) 22
Wotton (H.) - - 37
Wyatt (A. J.) - - 24

ames (W.) - - 18, 21
ameson (Mrs. Anna) 37
efferies (Richard) - 38

Mulhall (M. G.) - 20
Murray (Hilda) - 33
Myers (F. W. H.) - 19 !

Soulsby (Lucy H.) - 40
Southey (R.) - - 40
Spedding (J.) - - 9, 17

Wylie (J. H.) - - 8
Yeats (S. Levett) - 29
Yoxall (I. H.) - - 29

ekyll (Gertrude) - 38

Nansen (F.) - - 12 Spender (A. E.) - i?

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Roberts. THE ADVENTURES OF
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Stevenson. — A CHILD'S GARDEN OF
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Wemyss. — ' THINGS WE THOUGHT
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34 MESSRS. LONGMANS & CO.'S STANDARD AND GENERAL WORKS.

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Haggard's (H. R.) Mr. Meeson's Will. With
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Haggard's (H.R.) Dawn. With i6Illusts. y. 6d.

Haggard's (H. R.) The People of the Mist. With
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Haggard (H. R.) and Lang's (A.) The World's
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Harte's (Bret) In the Carquinez Woods and
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JeflTeries' (R.) The Story of My Heart: M)

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Jefferies (R.) The Toilers of the Field. With

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Lang's (A.) Custom and Myth : Studies of Early
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