NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES 3 3433 08181965 2 v \<^:;^7 <^^ii\^^^\^ -s>;x->. ii^-SSi o:,^^ ?'^ V^^ -n , -il ..' '-J' : r^^^ '■\V\\-,\\\\V* ;^ .!\ ^^^■y* ^: .^ ;\-^«WS!N!S«SSi»SS»N5«S^\vS««SS^^^ PVMWMHlM — 'S k: ^ / PUBLIC LIBRARY ASTOH. LENOX ^.1 ■j'l / ROCKY MOUNTAIN E' 9 on, Startling Scenes and Perilous Adyei^tures 4. IX THE FAR WEST. BY RUFUS B. SAGE. Dayton, Ohio: EDWARD CANBY. 63 IvU K:W YORK FUBi^IC LIBRARY ASTOR, LENOX AND TILDEN FOUNDATIONS' R 1916 L CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movemsnts. A Digression. Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians. 29 CHAPTER II. Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp, Things as they_ appeared. Simpli- city of mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The command- ant. En route. Comical exhibition and adventure witli a Spanish compa- ny. Grouse. Elm Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle. 34 CHAPTER III. The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Sprinp. The Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for wluskey. Hick- ory timber. Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party. Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. In- dian atrocities. Liqtior and the Fur Trade. Strict guard. Hif(h prices. 45 CHAPTER IV. Coontry from the frontiers to Big Blue ; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for fever and ague. Indian trails. Game. Large rabbits. Antelope, and their peculiarities. Beaver cuttings. Big Blue and its vicinity. Dangerous countrj'. Pawnee bravery. Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) Platte river. Predominant characteristics of tlie Grand Prairies, and theory eiplanative of of thi^ir phenomenon. SomelWng to laugh at. "Big Jim" and the ant«- lope. 64 Vj CHAPTER V. 2 2» Dewrted camp. Big Jim's third attempt n a hunter. 'Bufffilo and other partica 2 O lara. Big Jim lying guard. Butc> ;ring. Strange selections. Extraordi- ^ ^ nary eating, and excellence cf buiiblo meat. Brady's Island. The mur- ui derer's fate. Substitute for wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange Q ^ Infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life, and hovr to hunt them. Cross S. tt O Fork of Platto. Big Jim's fourtli adventiirfc M £^ (7) U) < m 7^ tfii eoNTrorrs. CHAPTER VI. AA creek. Pawnee and Sioui battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Neet. Mad wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. Mad bull. Maldng and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle. Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk with the Indiana. Speech of Marto-cog< enhne. Reply. Tahtungah-saoa'a address. 75 CHAPTER VIL The Chinmey. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's BlufiC Roman- tic scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek end gold. Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remark* by the way. Prairie travel. l/jcality and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratjory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. Scenes at ForL Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral. Speech of Etespa- buska on the death of his father. 90 CHAPTER Vm. Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smokingout the natives. Ind> dent illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black HiUs. Rawliide. An Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eau-qui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river; its val- ley, fruits, and game. Building site. The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Tlieft and its punishment. Indian soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. " That Old Serpent." Indian enpersUtion, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon general morality. 103 CHAPTER IX. Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenea of bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes tutored in vice. A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic Di- vorce. Plurahty of vnves. 11'5 CHAPTER X. TUitnnga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The Death Song, a tale of love. MeJicine-men. Extraordinary perform- ance of Tahtunga-mobellu. WonderfiL feats of jugglery. 125 CHAPTER XI. Pood for hoisei. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat B»- torn to Fort Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medi- A BaiiaL little Lodge and the French trader. A corfriErrra ix In connciL Journey to White riv«r. High winds and snow Intenae luf- fbrings and painful results. 13d CHAPTER XII. Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up. Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building. Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow esca[)e. Snow stonn. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte uito the prairies. A valley. Bitter Cottonwood. Indian foits. Wild fruit. Roct- digging. Cherry tea and its uses. Geology of the country. Soils, grasses herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere. Horse-shoe creek. >\ panther. Prairia dogs and their peculiarities. 143 CHAPTER Xm. The Creek valley. ITie Platte as a mountain stream. Canon. Romantic pros- pect. Comical bear story. Perilous encoimter with a wounded bull. Ge- ological remarks. Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La BonLe's creek. Remarks by the way. Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Boi-elder. Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Diflerent kuids of bears in Oregon and the mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. 150 CHAPTER XIV. Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraorduiary instance of suffering. Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Canon camp. Sage trees. Mountain sheep, and aU about them. Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it. DevU's Grate. Landscape scenery. 159 CHAPTER XV. Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass. Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow. Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. The " Carcague." A surprise. Visit to the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selhng a prisoner for tobacco Description of Laramie Plains. 165 CHAPTER XVI. Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chug^vater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the F"rt. Amusements. Gambling among stjuavvs, and games playeil. Squavi? dresses, and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the in- tercourse of the ancient Romans ^^i!h the people of tliis continent. 178 CHAPTER XVll. ajpgiilfti exhibition of natural affection, flmbark for the States. Scarcity of proTiuons and consequent hardship and tiuflsring. Exlraoniin&rT darinj «l OOllTENTi. woItm. DifGcuIdes of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. K. fiih itory, •nd another to match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal Bituation. Extreme exposure. Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A picture of Platte navigation. Coiuitry north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian benevolence. Suimuary of hard- ships and deprivations. Abandon voyage. 185 CHAPTER XVra. Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations. Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an empty boat. Ruins of a PawTiee village at Cedar Bluff Plover creek. Cache Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring com- pany. A horrible situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee vOlage. Exem- plary benevolence of an Indian chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff. Proceed to Independence. 19S CHAPTER XIX. The country oetyveen the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Bea- ver creek. Bijou. Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes; their character and history. Arrive at Fort Lan- caster. Different localities in its neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins. 200 CHAPTER XX. Old acquaintances. Indian miu'ders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous coun- try Mexican traders. Summaiy v."ay of teaclung maimers. Fort Lancas- ter and surrounding countrj'. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connect- ing observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide. Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors.' The lone trav- ellers. Arrive at the Arkansas. General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of sandstone. 210 CHAPTER XXL ^Tkinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its val- leys and 80*nery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the countjy travelled over. Taos ; its \icinity, scenery, and mines. Ranches and RaD cheros. Mexican houses ; their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of the causes contributmg to their pre- KSDt degradation. The Pueblo Indians and their strange notions. Ancient fample. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the Uintah river, and obgo W^Mu by the way. Tao« Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintnh and Lake Ut&hs. Tht CONTENTS. Diggers; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, \vith a sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards, ludicrous barbarity, braverjs&c, with a sketch of their roimlry, and why - they are leas favorable to the whiles than formerly. 221 CHAPTER XXn. Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description ol Upfxjr California. Tlie Eastern Section. Great Salt I^ake and circuinjacent country. Desert. Digger country, and regions south. FertiUty of soil. Prevailing rock and minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado. Magiiificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila. Face of the country, soil &;c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its healtluness. The natives, Sparsity of inhabitants. iSo government. All about the Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells. Practicable routes from tlie United States. .232 CHAPTER XXIII. Minerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bay8*and Harborp. Description of the country ; territory northwest of the Sacramento ; Tlamath Mountains ; California range and its vicinity ; southern parts; timber, river-bottoms ; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and 1 lilare ; their extent, fertility, timber, and fruit ; wild grain and clover, spontaneou?; wonderful fectiikiity of soil, and its products ; the productions, climate, rains, and dews ; geological and muieralogical character ; face of the country ; its water ; its healtlaness ; game ; superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c. ; beasts of prey ; the inhabitants, who ; Indians, their character and condition ; Capi;al of the Province, with other towns ; advanUiges of San Francisco ; ii Jand settlements ; foreigners and Mexicans ; Government ; its full military strength. Remarks. 239 CHAPTER XXIV. l^itfitoTs at Uintah. Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white Indians ; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and attempts at its exploration,— speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green valleys, &v. Country en route. Brown's-hcie. Geologicfd observations. Soda, Beer, and Steamboat springs ; their peculi- arities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river ; its fertility, timber, and abun- dance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages of this section Mineral tar. 250 CHAPTER XXV. Jlort HaII; !»• hiatory, and locality. Information reJativ« to OTegon, Boonl- »i CONTENTS. uiea and extent of the territory. Its riven and lakes, with a concise descrip- tion of them severally. Abundance and variety of fish and water-fowl. Harbors and islands. Oregon as a whole ; its mountains and geographical divisions. Easteni Divlson ; its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber ; volcanic ravages ; country between Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of tho Columbia ; its general character. Middle Division ; its valleys, prai- ries, highlands, and forests. Western Division ; a beautiful country ; ex- tensive valleys of extraordinary fertility; productive plains; abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facta. 258 CHAPTER XXVI. Climate of Oregon ; its variableness ; its rains ; a southern climate in a r^rth* em latitude. Productiveness ; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and culti- vated. Geological characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves. Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native ; Indian tribes, their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements. Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements. Oregon City, its situa- tion and advantages ; about Linnton ; about Wallammette valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river ; Vancouvre, and its superior advantages. Kind- ness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers. 269 CHAPTER XVn. The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advan- tages reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in the early history of Fort Hall. Why tlie Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The landscape. DiiTerent routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park. 277 CHAPTER XXVin. From Grand river to Bayou Salade. Observations by the way. Description of the Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remark- able sagacity of wolves. Snow storms and amusement. Ravenn. Move camp. Comfortable winter quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable instance of sound sleeping. Astonish- ing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all about beaver. Hunting excur- sion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands, mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger. A nocturnal visitor. ThrilUng adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen o*- .^^ , tal weeks, to recruit KlAG OF TJIE ;■-;: w-xEES. — P«D-« 33. BORDER-PRAJIUES AND INDIANS. 33 their animals and complete the needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey before them. The scenery of this neighborliood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and witti the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the summer breeze with willing incense ; — now, sport- ing beside her fountains and revelling in her dales, — then, smiling from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her groves. I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at Westport. The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the pre- ceding night had purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of fruit, kissed my every step. The butter- cup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a variety of other beauties, unknown to the choicest collections of civihzed life, on every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy. The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a sur- prising growtli. The landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The groves, clad in their gayest foliage and nodding to the wind, ever and anon, crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted by the hand of art to point the way- farer to Elysian retreats. The gushing fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at short inter\'als, greeted the ear aiul tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains in one grand con- cert, and made the air vocal with their warblings ; and the brown-plumed grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here and there emerge wellnigh from under foot, and whiz through the air with almost lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked for presence and sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the distance, cropping the choice herbage before them, or gamboUing in all the pride of native freedom. Amid such scenes I delight to wander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in the loneliness — an enchantment in the solitude — a witching variety in the sameness, that must ever impress the traveller, when, foi the first time, he enters within the confines of the great western prairies. One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with tlie for'egoing, it may n^^st be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camp- ing-place. The nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belcngs to the Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fomleen or fifteen hunlred men, women and children. Their immediate neighbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts,— the former claiming a population of eleven Hundred, and the latter, three or four hundred. Many connecied with tkMe "^Iws outitrip the nearer whites, in point of civiUzation a«il refine- 84 PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING. ment, — excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all that elevates and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become in a great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and Siey themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, — occu- pying neat maasions with smiling fields around them. Nor are they altogether neglectful of tlie means of education. ' The mission schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect less backward than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare even, considering the smallness of their number, to meet among them with persons of liberal education and accomplishments. Their mode of dress assimilates that of the whites, though, as yet, fasliion has made compara- tively but small inroads. The unsophisticated eye would find prolific source for amusement in the imcouth- appearance of their females on public occa- sions. Perchance a gay Indian maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her head, — embanded by broad strips of figured tin, instead of libbons, — and ears distended with large flattened rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders ; and bore another, solely habited in a long woUen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips along in all the pride and pomposity of a regular city belle ! Such are sights by no means uncommon. These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws ic.jtuted for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, be- coming more temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits have hitherto proved the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches of various christain denominations, established among them, are in a flour- ishing condition, and include with their members many whose .lives of examplary piety adorn their professions. Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying tliis beautiful and fertile section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and be- nign influences of enlightened christian effort, and furnish indubitable evidence of the susceptibility of the Aborigine for civilization and i"»- provement. CHAPTER II. Treparatious for leaving. — Scf:iie8 at Camp. — ^Things as they appeared.— Simplio* ity of mountaineers. — Sleep in the open air. — Characler, habits, and costume ot mountaineers. — Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. — The commandant. — En route. — Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. — Grouse*— Elm Grove.— A storm. — Santa Fe traders.— Indian battle. After many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length fixed for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, I proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly night before I renchod my destination, and the camp-fires were already Shawnee Maiuen. — Page 34. -..or?"- ' ^vox N F.-... -_ ■ 'ON'S flCEITBS AT CAMP. S7 Jg^ted, in front of which the officiating cook was busily engaged in prepar- ing the evening repast. To the windward were the duslty forms of ten or fifteen men,— some standing, others sitting a la Turk, and others half- recUning or quietly extended at full length upon the ground,— watching the operative of the culinary department with great seeming interest. Enchairing myself upon a small log, I began to survey the surrounding objects. In the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with ample canvass tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent form. To the right a small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white covering, disclosed itself to the eye, and presented an air of comfort. To t£ie left the caravan animals, securely picketed, at regular distances of some fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of several acres. Close at hand a crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring adown the valley ; and still beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the breeze, and contributed its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The camp-fires in front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as above described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion of it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches upon the ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only await- ing supper to forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep. Every thing presented such an air of primitive simplicity not altogether estranged to comfort, I began to think it nowise marvellous that this mode of hfe should afford such strong attractions to those inured to it. Supper disposed of, the area within camp soon became tenanted by the devotees of slumber, — some snoring away most melodiously, and others conversing in an animated tone, now jovial, now grave, and at intervals, causing the night-air to resoimd with merry peals of laughter. At length the sleep-god began to assert his wonted supremacy, and silence in some measure reigned throughout camp. The bed of a mountaineer is an article neitlier complex in its nature nor difficult in its adjustment. A single buflalo robe folded double and spread upon the ground, witli a rock, or knoll, or some like substitute for a pillow, furnishes 3ie sole base-work upon which tlie sleeper reclines, and, envel- oped in an additional blanket or robe, contentedly enjoys his rest. Wishing to initiate myself to the new mode of life before me, I was not slow to imi- tate the example of the promiscuous throng, and the lapse of a few moments found me in a fair way to pass quite pleasantly my first night's repose in the open air. With the first gray of morning I arose refreshed and invigorated, nor even suffered the slightest ill effect from my unusual exposure to a humid and unwholesome night-air. The whole camp, soon after, began to disclose a scene of cheerfulness and animation. The cattle and horses, unloosed from their fastenings, and accompanied by keepers, were again permitted to roam at large, and in a short time were most industriously engaged in administering to the calls of appetite. A%r breakfast I improved tlie opportunity to look about and scan more closely the appearance of my compa^nons de voyage. This opened to view a new field for the study of men and manners. A mountain company generally comprises some quaint specimens ol knman nature, and, perhaps, few more so than the one to which 1 htn 4 38 CHARACTER AND COSTUME OF MOUNTAINEERS. introduce the reader. To particularize would exceed my limitH, nor could I do full justice to the subject in hand by dealing in generalities; — how- ever, I yield to the latter. There are many crude originals mixed with the prime ingredients of the?;e companies. A gcnuiue mountaineer is a problem hard to solve. He seems a kind of sui genus, an oddity, both in dress, language, and appearance, from the rest of mankind. Associated with nature in her most simple forms by habit and manner of life, he gradually learns to despise the restraints of civilization, and assimilates himself to the rude and unpolished character of the scenes with which he is most conversant. Frank" and open in his manners and generous in his disposition, he is, at the same time, cautious and reserved. In his frankness he will allow no one to acquire an undue advantage of him, though in his generosity, ho will oftentimes expend the last cent to assist a fellow in need. Implacable in his hatred, he is also steadfast in his friendship, and knows no sacrifice too great for the benefit of those he esteems. Free as the pure air he breathes, and proudly conscious of his own independence, he will neither tyrannize over others, nor submit to be trampled upon, — and is always prepared to meet the perils he may chance to encounter, with an undaunted front. Inured to hardship and deprivation, his wants are few, and he is the last to repine at the misfortunes which so often befall him. Patience becomes as it were interwoven with his very nature, and he sub- m?' „ lo the greatest disasters without a murmur. Ilis powers of endurance, from frequent exercise, attftin a strength and capacity almost incredible, — Buch as are altogether unknoivn to the more delicately nurtured. His is a trade, to become master of which requires a long and faithful apprentice- ship. Of this none seems more conscious than himself, and woe to th«i ^^ greenhorn" who too prematurely assumes to be "journeyman." His ideas, his arguments, his illustrations, all partake of the unpolished sim- plicity of his associations ; though abounding often in the most vivid imagery, pointed inferences, and luminous expositions, they need a key to make them intelligible to the novice. His dress and appearance are equally singular. His skin, from constant exposure, assumes a hue almost as dark as that of the Aborigine, and his features and physical structure attain a rough and hardy cast His hair, through inattention, becomes long, coarse, and bushy, and loosely dangles upon his shoulders. His head is surmounted by a low crowned wool-Jiat, or a rude substitute of his own manufacture. His clothes are of buckskin, gaily fringed at the seams with strings of the eame material, cut and made in a fashion peculiar to himself and asso- ciates. The deer and buffalo furnish him the required covering for hit feet, which he fabricates at the impulse of want. His waist is encircled with a belt of leather, holding encased his butcher-knife and pistols — wblo from his neck is suspended a bullet-pouch securely fastened to the belt in front, and beneath the risht arm hangs a powder-horn transversely from hie shoulder, behind which, upon the strap nttAched to it, are affixed his bullet- mould, ball-screw, wiper, awl, &c. VVilh a gun-stick made of soma hard wood, and a good rille placed in his hands, carrying from thirty to thirty-five balls to the pound, the reader will have before him a correct like- ness of a genuine mountaineer, when fully equipped. This costume prevails not only in the mountains proper, but also in Um THE COAUIANDANT. 39 iCss settled portions of Oregon and California. The mountaineer is his own manufacturer, tailor, shoemalier, and butcher; and, fully accoutred and sup- plied with ammunition in a good game country, he can always feed and clothe himself, and enjoy all the comforts his situation affords. No wonder, then, his proud spirit, expanding with the intuitive knowledge of noble inde- pendence, becomes devotedly attached to those regions and habits lliat per- mit him to stalk forth, a sovereign amid nature's lovliest works. Our tjompany, however, were not all mountaineers ; some weic only " entered apprentices," and others mere *^ greenhorns " — taking every thing into consideration, perhaps, it was quite as agreeably composed as circum- stances would well admit of. In glancing over the crowd, I remarked several countenances sinister and malign, but consented to suspend judg- ment till the character of each should be proven by his conduct. Hence, in the succeeding pages, I shall only speak of characters as I have occa- sion to speak of men. As a whole, the party before me presented a choice collection of local varieties, — here was the native of France, of Canada, of England, of Hudson Bay, of Connecticut, of Pennsylvania, of Nev/ York, of Kentucky, of IlUnois, of Missouri, and of the Rocky Mountains, all congregated to act in unison for a specified purpose. It m^'ght well require the pencil of Hogarth to picture such a motley group. Our company had not as yet attained its full numercial strength ; a small division of it was some distance in advance, another behind, and at least two days would be necessaiy to complete the arrangements prior tc leaving. The idea of spending two days in camp, notwithstanding the beauty of its location, was by no means agreeable;. but as the case was beyond remedy, I quietly submitted, and managed to while away the tedious interval as best I could. A brief acquaintance v\'ith our commandant, found him a man of small Btature and gentlemanly deportment, though savoring somewhat of arro- gance and self-sufficiency, — faults, by the way, not uncommon in little men. He had been engaged in the Indian trade for several years past, and had seen many " ups and downs " in former hfe. Graduating from West Point in his younger days, he soon after received the commission of Lieutenant x)f Dragoons, in tlie U. S. Army, and served in that capacity for some six or eight years, on the frontier and at Forts Gibson and Leaven- worth. Possessed of the confidence of his men. his subsequent resignation vi'as the occasion of much regret with those he had been accustomed to command. The private soldier loved him for Ids generous frankness and readiness to overlook minor offences, even upon Sie first show of peni- tence. Such unbounded popularity at length excited the jealousy of liis brother officers, and gave birth to a combination against him, which nothing could appease short of his removal from the army. Aware of his ardent tem- perament and strong party notions as a politician, and equally violent upon the opposite side, they managed to inveigle him into a discussion of the measures and plans of the then administration of national affairs. Argu- ing in the excitement of feeling, he made use of an unguarded expression, denouncing the Chief Magistrate. This was immediately noted down, and charges were promptly preferred against him, for " abuse of a superior t^jicerl" The whole affair was then referred to a Court Martial, composed 40 COMICAL APPEARANCE OF A MEXICAN COMPANY. exclusively of political opponents. The . evidence was so strong he h&d little to expect from their hands, and consequently threw up his commission, to avert the disgrace of being cashiered, since which he has been engaged in his present business. _He appeared to be a man of general information, and well versed in science and literature. Indeed, I felt highly gratified in making an acquain- tance so far congenial to my own taste. An accession of two waggons and four men having completed our number, the morning of September 4th was ushered in with the din of preparations for an immediate start. The lading of the waggons was then •everally overhauled and more compactly adjusted, and our arms were depos- ited with otlier freight until such time as circumstances should call for thera All was liurry and confusion, and ofttiraes the sharp tone of angry dispute arose above tlie jargon of the tumultuous throng. At length the word was given to advance, and in an instant the whole caravan was in motion ; tliose disconnected with the waggons, mounted upon horseback, led the van, followed by the teams and tlieir attendants in Indian tile, as the loose cattle and horses brought up the rear. The scene to me portrayed a novelty quite amusing. I began to tliink a more comical- looking set could scarcely be found any where ; but the events of the day soon convinced me of my mistake. Travelling leisurely along for some six or eight miles, strange objects were seen in the distance, v.'hich, on nearer approach, proved a company of Mexican traders, on their way to Independence for an equipment of goods. As they filed past us, I had full scope for the exercise of my risibilities. If a mountaineer and a mountain company are laughable objects, a Mexican and a Mexican company are triply so. The first thing that excites attention upon meeting one of this mongrel race, is his ludicrous apology for pantaloons. This is generally made of deer or buffalo skin, similar to our present fashion, except the legs, which are left unsewcd from the thigh downwards ; a loose pair of cotton drawers, cut and made in like manner, and worn beneath, imparts to his every movements a most grotesque appear- ance, leaving at each step of the wearer his denuded leg, with th.it of his pantaloons on one side, and drawers on the other, fluttering in the breeze ! The next thing tliat meets the gaze, is his black, slouching, broad-brimmed hat, (so7nbrero,) tliough little darker than the features it obscures, and far less so tlian the coarse, jet-colored hair that protrudes from beneath it, and falls confusedly upon his shoulders. Next, if the weather tolerates the habit, a coarse parti-colored blanl^et (charape) envelopes the body, from hia shoulders downwards, fixed to its place by an aperture in the centre through which the head is thrust, and securely girted at pleasure by a waist-band of leather. His arms, if arms he has, consist of a rude bow and arrowa Blung to his back, or ar old fusee, not unfrequently without flint, lock, or ammunition ; but doubly armed, and proudly, too, is he who can carry a good rifle with powder and lead — even if he he ignorant of their use. Thus appearing, these creatures, some mounted upon mules, with heavy apurs attached lo 2ieir heels, (bearing gafls an inch and a half in length, jui- ming in response to the rolUng motions of the wearer,) ensconced in bungling Spanish saddles, (finished witli such ample leather skirts as almost hid the diminutive aniouil tliat bore them, and large wooden stirrups, some three Wagon Train. — Pa^e 40. Ti;E NEW YG:>:. -^UBLICLIBRARY ASTOR. LENOX A STORM. 43 inehM broad,) were riding at their ease ; while others, half naked, were trudging along on foot, driving their teams, or following the erratic miilea of the caravan, to heap upon them the ready maledictions of tlieir prolific Tocabulary, Passing on, we were accosted : " Como lo pasa, cabelleros ?" The salutation was returned by a simple nod. ** Habla la lengua Espanola, senors ?" A shake of the head was the only response. " Es esta el camino de Independenca ?" No reply. " Carraho ! Que quantos jomadas tenemos en la camino de Indepen- denca ?" Still no one answered. " Scha ! Maldijo tualmas ! Los Americanos esta dijabelo !'' By this time the crowd had passed and left us no longer annoyed by its presence. The conclusion irresistibly forced itself upon my mind, " if these are true specimens of Mexicans, it is no wonder they incite both the pity and contempt of the rest of tlie world." Subsequent intercourse with ihem, however, has served to convince me that first impressions, in this case, instead of exceeding the reality, fell far short of the true mark ! Continuing our course, we saw large numbers of prairie-hens, and suc- ceeded in kiuing several. These birds assimilate the English grouse in appearance, and are of a dusky-brown color, — with short tails, and narrow- peaked wings, — and little less in size than the domestic fowl. Their flesh IS tender and of superior flavor. When alarmed, they start with a cack- ling noise, and whiz through the air not unlike the partridge. They are very numerous on the frontier prairies, and extend to the Rocky Moun- tains, Oregon, California and New Mexico. About sundown we reached a small creek known as Elm Grove, and encamped for the night, with every indication of an approaching storm. Strict orders were accordingly given for securing the animals, and the process of "picketing" was speedily under way. This consisted in driving small stakes (*' pickets") firmly into the ground, at proper dis- tances apart, to which the animals were severally tied by strong cords, — a plan that should find nightly practice among all travellers ol the grand prairies, to prevent those losses which, despite the utmost precaution, will not. unfrequently occur. Timber proved quite scarce in this vicinity, and it was with great difficulty we procured sufficient for cooking purposes. The men now began to prepare for the coming storm. Some disposed of themselves in, and others under, the waggons, making barricades to the windward ; others erected shantees, by means of slender sticks, planted in parallel rows five or six feet apart, and interwoven at the tops, so as to form an arch of Buitable height, over which was spread a roofage of robes or blankets, — while others, snugly ensconced beneath the ready pitched tent, bade de- fiance to wind and weather. Being one of those selecting a place under the waggons, I retired at an Milv hour to snooze away the night ; and despite the anticipations of an onpleasant time, I eeo:: isst mys^ fn a sweet slumber, utterly uncon- ■eious of every thiug around ine. In thoughts I wandered back to the ^ AN INDIAN BATTLfi. home of my childhood, to converse witli friends whose names and featurea fond memory has chained to my heart, while imagination roamed with delight amid those scenes endeared to me by earliest and most cherished recollections. But all tlie sweet pencillings of fancy were at once spoiled by the uncivil intrusion of a full torrent of water, that came pouring from the hill-side and forced its impetuous way into the valley below, — deluging me from head to foot in its descent. My condition, as the reader may well suppose, was far from being enviable. However, resolved to make the best of a bad thing, after wringing the water from my drenched bed- ding, I selected another spot and again adjusted myself to pass the dreary interval till morning ; this I succeeded in doing, — how or in what man- ner, it is unnecessary to say. Sleep was utterly out of the question, and I am quite sure I never hailed the welcome morn with greater delight tlian on this occasion. Others of the company fared almost as bad as myself, and there was scarcely a dry bed in camp. But the little concern evinced by the moun- taineers for their mishap, surprised me most. Tliey crawled from their beds, reeking with wet, as good humoredly as though their nocturnal bath had in no wise disturbed their equanimity, or impaired their comfort. The morning proved so disagreeable two of our party, who were accompa- nying us for the purpose of adventure, concluding this a kind of adventure they were unwilling to meet, wisely resolved to take the back track, and accordingly left for home. Towards night the rain ceased, and, the clouds having dispersed, we were again en route. Travelling on till late, we encamped in the open prairie, and early the next morning resumed our course. Having reached a email creek, about 10 o'clock, we halted for breakfast, where another Santa Fe company came up. This proved a party of Americans, with some six or eight waggons and a large numbe'- of horses and mules, on their homeward journey. They had also in their possession an elk nearly full grown, two black-tailed deer,* an antelope and a white-tailed fawn. Through them we received intelligence of a battle recently fought be- tween the Pawnee and Arapaho Indians, at the lower Cimarone Springs, south of the Arkansas. The former had been defeated with greai slaughter, — losing their horses and seventy-two of their bravest war- riors, to increase the trophies and enliven the scalp-dances of their ene- mies. This action occurred directly upon the Santa Fe trail, and the dead yet bestrewed the prairie, as our informants passed, half devoured by wolves, and tilling the air with noisome stench as ihey wasted beneath the influence of a scorching sun. An approving murmur ran through the crowd while listening to tlie re- cital, and all united to denounce the Pawnees as a dangerous and villan- ous set, and wished for their utter extermination. * The black-tailed deer are larger than the common deer, and are found only in the snow-mountains. For a description of them the reader is referred to Bubsequent pages. 46 CHAPTER III. The Pottowatomies.— Crossuig the Waliarouslia.— Adventure, at the Springs.— IT* Caw chief.— Kansas river and Indians.— Pleading for whi.skey.— Hickory timber. -Prairie tea.— Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue.— Wild honey.— Return party.— Mountaineers in California.— Adventure with a buffalo.— Indian atrocities.— Dquor and the Fur Trade.— Strict guard.— High prices. Continuing our course, we bore to the right, and struck the northern or Platte trail, and, after travelling eijjlit or ten miles, made camp upon a email creek skirted with heavy timbei, called Black Jack. An early start the next morning brought us to the Wakarousha, a considerable tributary of the Kansas, where a junction was formed with our advance party. The territory lying upon this stream as far south as Council Grove, (a noted place on the Mexican trail, 144 miles west from Independence,) belongs to the Pottowatomies. These Indians are very wealthy and are partially civilized, — the most of tliem being tillers of the ground. Their dwelling* are of very simple construction, — large strips of bark firmly tied to a frame-work of poles witli small apertures to admit light, furnishing the ex- terior, while the interior is finished by the suspension of two or three blankets between the apartments, as partitions, and erecting a few scaflblda for bedsteads. The fire-place in warm weather is out of doors, but in the winter it occupies the centre of the building, from which the smoke- unaided by jamb or chimney — is left to find its way through an opening in the roof. Some, however, are beginning to improve in their style of architecture, and now and then we find a tolerably spacious and comforta^ ble house among them. The Catholics have several missionaries with this tribe, and are using great exertions, if not to ameliorate their condition, at least, to proselyte them to their own peculiar faith. The missionaries of other christian denominations are also devoting themselves for their benefit, and not un- frequently with gratifjring success. The remainder of the day was occupied in crossing the creek — a task by no means easy, — its banks being so precipitous we were compelled to lower our waggons by means of ropes. In so doing it required the utmost caution to prevent them from oversetting or becoming broken in the ab- rupt descent. The night following was passed upon the opposite bank. After travel- ling some twelve miles the next day, we encamped a short distance to the right of t!ie trail, at a place known as the Springs. Scarcely had we halted when two footmen appeared from an opposite direction — one ot them leading a horse — Vv'hom a nearer advtince proved to be a white man and an Indian. The former was immediately recognized by our engages as an old acquaintance, by tiie name of Brown, v/ho had been their recent compagnon de voyage from the mojintains. His story was soon told. A few daya Bubsequent to his arrival in tlie States, a difliculty had occurre* 46 KANSAS INDIANS. between him and another person, who received a severe wound from a mife by the hand of Brown during the afiray, when the latter was ne- cessitated to consult his own safety by a hurried flight. He accordingly bade farewell both to enemies and law, and left for the Indian country — travelling most of the way by night. Two weeks afterwards he arrived in the Kansas nation, and remained with the Indian now accompanying him, to await our return. Having listened to his story, I began to survey his strange companion. He was a village chief of the Kansas (Caw) tribe, and the first of his race I had ever seen so nearly dressed in his native costume. In person he was tall and stoat-built, — with broad shoulders and chest, brawny arma and legs, and features evincing the uncontaminated blood of the Aborigi- ne. His hair was closely shaved to the scalp, with the exception of a narrow tuft centre wise from forehead to crown, so trimmed it stood on end like the bristles of a warring hog; then his whole head and face were so lavishly bedaubed with vermilion, our experienced city belles would doubt- less have considered it an impardonable waste of that useful material! A string of bears '-claws, tastefully arranged, encircled his neck, while ample folds of brass wire above the wrists and elbows furnished his armil- lary, and from his ears hung rude ornaments, — some of silver, others of brass or iron — cruelly distending the flexible members that bore them; A dirty white blanket diawn closely around the shoulders enveloped the body, which, with a breech-cloth and leggins, formed his sole covering. A bow and arrows, slung to his back by a strap passing over the left shoul- der and under the right arm, were his only weapons. A belt, begirting the waist, sustained his tobacco-pouch and butcher-knife, and completed his attire and armament. Thus habited appeared before us the Caw chief, holding in one hand tlie lead-rope of his horse, and in tlie otlier the wing of a wild turkey, with a a long-stemmed pipe, carved from a hard red stone, handsomely wrought and finely polished. Taken altogether, he presented an amusing spectacle— a real curiosity. Having shaken hands with the company and turned his horse to gi-aze, in a few moments his pipe was subjected to its destined use, and, as the inhaled fiimes merrily curved from his mouth and nostrils, he ever and anon pre- sented it for the indulgence of the bystanders. His knowledge of English was limited to the simple monosyllable " good," which he took occasion to pronounce at intervals as he thought propei*. Sept. 8th. Continuing on, we encamped towards night at a small creek within six miles of the crossing of the Kansas river. Here a bevy of our chief's villagers, rigged in their rude lashion, came flocking up, apparently to gratify their curiosity in gazing at us, but really in expectation of some trifling presents, or in quest of a favorable opportunity for indulging thefr inate propensities for theft. However, they found little encourage- ment, as the vigilance of our guards more than equalled the cunning of our visitors. During their stay we were frequently solicited for donations of ♦<)bacco and ammunition, (as they expressed it,) in payment for passing ibrough their country. This was individually demanded with all the assu- lance of government revenue oflicers, or the keepers of regular toll-bridges, •trongly rei/inding one of the pettj' nations upon the borderis of Canaan The Caw Cmzr. — Page 46. THS NEW YORK 'PUBLIC LIBRARY ASTOR, LENOX- I TILDtN FOUNDATIONS PLEADING FOR V\ HlSKliY. 49 hat required tribute of the Israelites passing through tliem to possess the '^i:! "^ 'EaHy UUhe forenoon we came to the Kansas and were em- nlovS till neady n^vht in elTccting a ford. This proved rather difficult, as KeCte was d^8?p"and the botto"o sandy ;-the course bearing direccly fcrols till near mklw.y of the river, follows the current for six oi- eight ^m red vaS a^d then turns abruptly to the opposite shore The Kansas at the crossS was not far from six hundred yards wide, with steep banks ocW and sand The fording accomplished we travelled some six md^^^^^ nn,l Pn"amn«d for tlie night. Our visitors yet honored us ^Mh Vn.n pres- n eT£Xun"er pietiice of trading horses; otljers ot artenu^^ tobacco, whiskey, coffee, and ammunition ; but most of them toi the real ^X^?S?J^ T^ of the Osage tnbe^Pef ^^^^^ ^ l«m.„ao-P and identified b\ the same manners and customs. Ihey num. k"l pSuLln^^^^^^^ h^^nd^'^d' ^-"^ ''^'^ ^1^ the terr tory west of he SivSe Shawnee, and Pottowatomie line, to the head waters of the KaSr The'rmain village is on the left bank of the river, a few miles ibo" the crcSing. Their^houses are built Pawnee ^-^^-^%^ form and covered with a thick coat of dirt, presenting a Loio at the apex to emh the srSoke and another at the side to serve the double purpose of a Tor and wSdow The whole building describes a complete circle m ?4osecenrre is placed the hearth-fire, and at the circumference the couches Jft inmates. L floor is the bare ground, and its ce ling the gr-s bmsh and poles which uphold the supermcurabent earth formmg tht root and ^"^ThP Caws are rrenei aUv a lazy and slovenly people, raising but little corItS:Syl'ny%e%tables' For a 1-"^- tney depend -s^^^^^^^^ the chase. Their regular hunts are in the summer, fall, and winter, at which t me they all llave for the buffalo range, and return laden with a Tall supjiy oV^-^hoice provisions. The robes and skins thus obtained, furnish their clothin? and articles for traffic. As vet c Xatiof has made but small advances among them. Some however 'are to erably well educated, and a Protestant mission established with them, is beginning i.s slov. but oa.co...ai operations for heir good,- whOe two or three families of halt-breeds near by occupy neat l>o"«es and have splendid farms and improvements, thus affording a wholesome contrast to the poverty and misery of their rude neighbors. . • . -i ;„ The^d'stance from Independence to this place, by the mountain ail, is 6ome eiffhty miles, over a beautiful f^nd fertile country, which I shall here- Xr take o^ccasion to notice more fully. Before leaving we were further increased by the accession of two Canadian voyagevss-Frenoh of courbe. Our force now numbered some twentv-four-one sufficiently formidable for all the dangers of the route. ... Sept. loL Resuming our way, we proceeded till late at mg^t, stiL attenid by our Indian friends ; ,iiot the originals, bat a " few "lore of the same sort," who kindly supplied their pLxe., -seeking to levy fresh drafts upon patience and generosity.) These were more importunate lor liquor than aSy preceding them-though, m fact, the whole nation is "owise rennss m their devotion to King Alcohol One feUow. in parUcular, exhausted aU hui 50 SCENES AT NORTH FORK OF BLUE. ingenuity to obtain the wherewith to " loel his whistle." He was a shrif* el-faced old man, and occasioned much sport, from his supphcations it broken English, which ran pretty mucli as follows : " Big man, me. Chief, — Black Warrior. Me, American soldier ! Love Americans, heap. Big man, me ! Love whiskey, heap. White man good. Whiskey good. Love whiskey, me, — drink heap whiskey. No give me whiskey drink ? Me, Chief. Me, American. Me, Black War- rior. Heap big man, me ! Love Americans. Take him hand, shake. White ma i good. Wliiskey good. ]\Ie love whiskey ! Love hira heap ! No give Black Warrior whiskey ? No ? — one Icetle drink ? Whiskey good. Me love him. Make Black ^Varrior strong. Big man, me, — Chief. American soldier. Me love American. Shake him hand. Fight him, bad Indian, no love white man. Kill him. White man good. Me love white man. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey. No give Black WaiTior whiskey, — one leetlo drink ? Me, Cliief. Big man, me." Etc. In this strain the old fellow continued so long as he found listeners, but without success, although, as I afterwards learned, two waggons were freighted with the noxious article ; none of it was suffered to find its way down the throats of our thirsty guests. Pursuing a westerly course, nearly parallel with the Kansas, for three successive days, we passed the 14tii encamped at Big Vermilion, for the purpose of procuring a quantity of hickoiy for gun-sticks and bow-timber. Hickory is unknown to the Rocky Mountains, and tliis being the last place on the route affording it, each of our company took care to provide himself with an extra gun-stick. Small pieces, suitable for bows, find market among the mountain Indians, ranging at the price of a robe each, while gun-sticks command one dollar apiece, from the hunters and trap- pers. We were also careful to provide an extra quantity of ox-bows, axle-trees, &c., as a, resource in case of accidents or breakage. These are articles with which every caravan should be furnished on a journey across the gi'and prairies. In this vicinity a species of shrub, which I had before noticed in various ? laces, (designated as "red-root" by our voyageurs,) became quite abundant, ^he red-root is Iiighly esteemed as a substitute for tea, and my own expe- rience attests its superiority of flavor to any article of that kind imported from China. In appearance it is very similar to the tea of commerce, and it affords at all times a most excellent beverage. It is found only upon the prairies between the frontiers and Big Blue, and in some portions of the Rocky Mountains. Leaving Big Verinilion, we travelled rapidly the two days subsequent, and arrived at the North Fork of Blue, — a large and deep stream, tributary to the Kansas. We were here detained till the 24th — the creek being im- passable on account of high v/ater. However, the beauty of the place and variety of its landscape scenery, served in a great measure to alleviate the weariness of delay. The coun- try wa? most agreeably interspersed with hills, uplands, and dales — amply waterec; and variegated with woods and prairies, attired m all the gaudy loveliness of wild-flowe'rs. Tiie busy bee, afraid of the cruel persecuticna of raaj, had here sought a secure retreat to pursue, unmolested her ADVENTURE WITH A BUFFALO, 61 melliferous employ, and fill the dark chambers of her oaken palaces year by year with honeyed stores. The air was almost vocal with the music of her wintrs, and the flowerets were enlivened by the gentle touches of her embrace! The odor of honey filled the breeze, which, wafting the mmgled melody of birds and insects with tlie incens;- of flowers, o'er the smiling prairie till lost in space, seemed more like the breath of Eden than the exhalations of earth. As mioht be supposed, we were not slow in levying upon the delicious stores which the industrious insects, claiming this as their dominion, had laid away for themselves. Daring our stay no less than four bee-trees were levelled, and every pan, kettle, pail, keg, or empty dish in the wliole camp was filled to overflowing, and every stomach to repletion, with honey of almost crystalline transparency. The great abundance of deer, turkey and other game in the vicinity, also contributed their share of amusement, and enlivened the interval of detention. At length, by a partial subsidence of the water, we were enabled to eGect a crossing and renew our journey. Pursuing a course W. N. W., on the 27th we met a small party of whites on their return from the mountains, and, yielding to the temptation presented by a luxuriant and well-wooded valley, with^a pretty streamlet, the two parties made common camp. Our new acquaintances were taking a large drove of horses, and several do- mesticated buflalo, with them to the States. Their horses had been mostly obtained from Upner California, the year previous, by a band of mountain- eers, under the lead of one Thompson. This band, numbering tvventy-two in all, had made a descent upon the Mexican ranchos and captured between two and three thousand head of horses and mules. A corps of some sixty Mexican cavalry pursued and attacked them, but were defeated and pursued in turn, with the loss of several mules and their entire camp equipage : after which the adventurers were permitted to rogain their mountain homes, without further molestation; but, in passing the cheerless desert, between the SieiTa Nevada and Colorado, the heat, dust, and thirst were so in- tolerably oppressive, that full one half of their animals died. The remain- der, however, were brought t6 rendezvous, and variously disposed of, to suit the wants and wishes of their captors. , , . i, u* The buffalo, in possession of our wayfaring friends, had been caugnt while calves, and reared by domestic cows. They appeared as tame and easily managed as other cattle. One of them, a two-year-old heifer, was rather vicious in its habits, having been spoiled, while a calf, by the too grert familiarity of its keeper. After listening to a full exposition of its bad qaalities, our commandant offered to bet he could handle, or even ride, the unruly beast at pleasure. , •' Can you ?" said the owner. " Do it, and my best horse is yours ! " I take all such ofl:evs !" returned the commandant. " A horse could " not be easier earned !" he continued, stepping towards the ill-tutored ani- mal. " Come, boss !— Poor bo-.s !— bo.^sy, bossy !" addressing the outtalo, which commenced advancing,— at first slowly, then, with a sudden bound, ran full tilt a-rainst the admirer, leaving him prostrate upon the ground, _aa it turned away, dancing and throwing its heels exultingly at the exploit. " Bless my stars !" he exclaimed, on recovering himself; " 1 d iio idea twould serve me so !" g2 LIQUOR AND THE FUR TRADE. " Ha, ha, ha !" retorted the owner. " You seem to pick upon a Strang* place for a snooze ! Wliat in the world were you doing before that skittish beast '" The roar of kiughter which followed, told how well the joke was relished bv the crowd, ,. " Reports from the mountains brought intelligence of recent duhciilties between the whites and Sioux,— the latter having murdered several trap- pers. A battle had also been fought in tlio Snake country, m wnica the Siouy were defeated v.'ith a loss of tweisty killed and wounded,— the whitens suffered ^in the loss of their leader (Frapp) and four others. Another affiiir had come ofi; at Fort Platte, between two factions of that tribe, while on a drunken spree, resulting in the death of Schena-Chischille, their chief, and several of his party. The most acceptable item of intelligence was the probability ot out reaching the buiTalo range in ten days, at least, where we should thid vast quantities of those animals. This led our voyageurs to expatiate anew upon tlie cr.oice varieties of the feast of good things we might expect on tliat occasion. Bidding adieu to our transient camp-mates, we were soon again en route. The day following, being unfit for travel, was devoted to overhauling and re-adjusting the freight of the waggons. Here, for the first time, I ascer- tained the fact, that a portion of the above consisted of no less than twenty-four larrels of alcohol, designed for the Indian trade ! Tliij announcement may occasion surprise to many, when aware that the la^vs of Congress prohibit, under severe penalties, the introduction of hquor among tlie. Indians, as an article of traffic,— subjecting the of- fender to a hca\y fine and confiscation of effects. Trading companies, however, find ways and means to smuggle it through, by the waggon-load, under tlie very noses of government oflicers, stationed along the frontiers to enforce the obsen^ance of laws. I pm irresistibly lod to the conclusion, that these gentrj' are wilfnlly neg- ligent of their duty ; and, no doubt, tliere are often weighty induceirwMs presented to them to shut their eyes, close their ears, and avert their faces, to let the guilty pass unmolested. It seems almost impossible tliat a blind man, retaining the senses of smell, taste and hearing, could remain igno- rant of a thing so palpably plain. The alcohol is pat into waggons, at Westport or Independence, in open duy-light, and taken into the territory, in open day light, where it remains a week or more awaiting the arrival of Its ownors. Two Government agents reside at Westport, while six or eio'ht companies of Dragoons are stationed at Fort Leavenwortli, ostensibly for the purpose of protecting the Indians and suppressing this infamous trathc,— and yet it suffers no diminution from their vigilance! VVhat faithful pubhc officers ! How prompt in tlie discharge ot their whole These gentlemen cannot plead ignornnce as an excuse. Itiev wen know that alcohol is one of the principal articles in Indian trade— tins fact- is notorious— no one pretends to deny it ; not even the traders themselves-- and yet, because no one takes the trouble to produce a specimen of the \i7vd of freight taken, more or less, by aU mountain companies, and forci them to see, iaste^ touch, a,iid smell, they affect ignorance t It is thus th« IlIGil i'iUCES. ■kfA^^A^V^^^^^^^^ benevolent designs of our Govenimeiit are cousuinmateJ by thesu pension- era upon the public treasury! ... Had they tha will so to do, it would bo no difficult matter to put a st<^> to all si'ch exportations. The departure of any one of tiiese companies for the mountains, is a thin? too difficult to be eifected unknown and stealthilv. It becomes public talk for days and even weeks previous. Scarcely anylhinff would be easier than for those whose business it is, to keep on the look'out, and entorce the law to its full extent upon each of- fender A few examples of tins kind would interpose an insuperable bar- rier to the further prosecution of an illicit traffic in the manner it is at pre-^ent carried on. A few faithful public officers, and attentive to their duty, regardless of fear ox favor, would soon accomplish an object so de- sirable. . .• .f In subsequent pages of this work I shall have occasion to notice a lew (.f the many evils resulting from this criminal neglect,— but at present fn boar further remarks. , • r • i i Our arms were now put in order for immediate use,--each individual ap- poilioning to himself a good supply of ammunition, to be ready at aU times in cae of attack. Guards were ordered to be constantly on the alert. 'Die company was divided into two parties,--one for day and the other tor •ighi iruard, and these again were subdivided for alternate reheves,— thus, one oi" each subdivision f/erving a day and a night, and the reserve the day ai.d night succeeding. The day-guard consisted of only two persons, u.)on duiv every other day, but the night-guard numbered ten,— tv/o being 0:1 duty fur two hours were then relieved by the two next in succession, -md they bv the next, and so on. tju-ici oniers were also given to prevent any from leaving camp, or part- in rr from the caravan while travelling! In fact, every thing began to as- sunic a warlike aspect, as if we were really in danger and apprehensive of an immediate rencounter. • i, j . Several boxes of clothing, &c., were also opened lor such as wished to purchase. But every article disposed of v/as sold at an enormous rate : •ohrtec.) bi-inutclier-kiiives,°'roni one dollar to one Hfty each; hose, one dollar per )Pir; sliirts, Insm tliree to live dollars each, according to quality; blanri- ots, Ironi twelve to sixteen dollais ; coats, from Jifteen to iorty dollars; coarse slices, four dollars per pair; six-penny calicoes, litty cts. per yd.; beads, one dt.llar per bunch, etc. These were of an indifferent quality, and afforded the vender some three or four hundred per cent, advance upon purchase-price. In fact, with regard to prices, conscience ha^ inv (h'n.^ to do Vk'itJi the B3&*li?}r, 54 CHAPTER IV Country from the frontiers to Big Blue, its geological character, &c.— Novel cure foi fever and ague. — Indian trails.— Game. — Sage rabbits. — Antelope, and their pa culiarities. — Beaver cuttings. — Big Blue and its vicinity. — Dangerous cr.unt^^^— Pawnee bi-avery.— Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.)— Platte river.-- -Predominant characteristics oi" the Grand Prairies, and theory explanatory nf their plienorae- nou.— Something to laugh at.—" Big Jim," and the antelope. Sept. 26ih. We are now camped upon a small creel?, nearly destitute of tirnber, within two miie.s of Big Blue, or the N. W. branch of tiiC Kansas river. The geography of this pait of the country is incorrectly described upon all the pubilL-^hed m;!p^ I ha^re yet seen. The Republican Fork, which is the principal branch of the Kansas, is uniformly represented i;.s the most northwesterly branch of that ri'vxr, forming a junction with it at or below the usual crossing. This is not the case. The two forks of Blue, from the northwest, united, form a laigo and important stream, which, according to my impression, discliargcs Its v.-aters into tlie Kansas itself, and not into the Republican. Of this, however, I am not quite positive. But be that as it may, ailmitting- the Republican to be tlie main stream, Big Blue must be, as a matter of course, the most northwesterly branch of the Kansas river. Proceeding up tlie Blue, the geological character of the country under- «-oes an entire and radical change, and tlie traveller is introduced to a difrer- ent order of tl^angs from that previously observed. Perhaps, therefore, it is not out of place to present a general review of the territory thus far. The interval from the frontier of Missouri to Big Blue, a distance up- wards of two hundred miles, affords great uniformity in all its more promi- nent characteristics. It generally comprises beautifully undulating prai- ries, of a moist argillaceous soil, rich in sedimentary deposites and vege- table matter. It is somewhat rocky in places, but well watered by the almost innumerable streams that find their way into the Kansas, Platte and Arkansas rivers. The creck^, with b;it few exceptions, are heavily timbered with oak, hickory, walnut, maple, Cottonwood, and other varieties f ,'aiid in more eastern forests. The Iiills too, in some parts, are more than usually abundant in springs, and covered with stately groves, as taste- fulij'^ arranged as if planted by the hand of man, while luxuriant grass and fragrant flowers usurp the place of underbrush. The prairies, hem- med in on every side by the woodlands fkirtiiig the water-courses, present to the eye proud oceans of flowery verdure, tossing their wavelets to the breeze and perfuming the air with the breath of spring. Tlie streams are clear, with rocky or pebbly bottoms and hig':, steep banks — abounding in choice specimens of the finny tribes and varieties of tin testaceous, oi^er, of the genus rnu?cula. The valley of the Kansaa is SAGE RABBITS. ^^ wide and of a deep brown vegetable mould, susceptible of a high slate of cultivation. The whole country is well adapted to the double purpose of aoTici'.lture and the grcnvth of stock. , , . The pravailin-.T rock is sandstone of various shades and compactness, with siliceous ami fo?siliferous limestone. These specifications are gene- rally exhibited in a detached and fragmentary form, but rarely in strata as d-ieclosed upon the. surface. Take>ras a wliole, the territory holds out many mducements to emi- granfs, and, whenever brought into market, will no doubt become speedily *nd thickly populated.* Sept. 30llt. We are again under headway. A French engage, who had been sufiering for several days past from a severe attack of the fever and aoue, experienced a sudden and novel cure. Unable to travel, quar- ters were prepared for him in one of the whiskey waggons, where he was comfortably disposed of as we continued our courc^e. In passing a rough place the waggon overset, when out came the invalid head loremost, and ml came the wimkey harrds sliowering full upon him ! The suddenness of the fall, with the surprise and excitement of the occasion,— one, or both, or all, or some other cause unknown, elTected a complete cure,— for cer- tain it is. he did not suffer another attack of the fever and ague during the whole journey, and the next day was able to discharge his duties as well au ever. »i *v ♦ On striking the Bio- Blue, the mountain road bears a north-northwest course to the head ofthat stream, and from thence over an interval of high- lands to the Platte river. Tiie distance travelled up the Blue requires some eight days, for heavy waggons. Continuing our way, about noon we passed several Indian trails, in addition to one ten or twelve or filteen miles back. These consist of a number of well-beaten, parrallel foot-paths, bearing a northwest and southwest direction. They are formed by the passing and repassing of the Otoes, lowas, and Foxes, to and from their hunting grounds, towards the head- waters of the Kansas. On the 3d of October we reached the antelope range, and saw four or five of these animals scouring the boundless expanse, or ascending some favorable eminence to gaze upon us. Slight signs of buffalo also appeared, and everything seemed to indicate the approach to a game country. Partincr ^ short distan-e froii; the trail, a large sage rabbit bounded up before me,— the first of his species I ever saw. This animal is near y three timps the pize of the common rabbit, and of a white color, slightly tinged with grey. It d-vives i= s name from being found principally in coun- tries abouu'iing with absinthe or wild sage. In the regions adjacent to the mountains, those animals occur more Irequently,— and eveii among the mountains, where their tails and ears are tipped with jetty blacK. Iheir fur is soft and fine,-enualling if not surpassing thit of the Russia rabbit. Their flesh is also of a superior flavor, as I have had opportunities ot , Towards night, three antelope appearing near the- trail, our hunter made • By a recent treaty with the Kan^M Indiaas. our government has becora« po88ea8«d «f MftiJv tha whole of thu beautiful section. gg ANTKLOPE OF THE PRAIRIE. ;ri;^e^ulTtte-mpt to approach them, which afforded me a first ink- hns- of tiie nature Mill character oi these anihtals. j „u„v^ f'hP autelooe of the grand prairie .lifilu-b but httle m size and shape from Ao Son1heep,iKl is'coated with long britde hair -o a rudSy brown color, except at the tail and head, w!iere it is short and white. The feS is ho'rnlesB^xcept an occasional bVf corneous excr^™^^^^^^^ fwn or three inches long protruding from tue liead. 1 he male, no\\e\er requipp^r^^Sh Lok-rha.^^ antleS, etony colored, and six or eigbtinchc^ •inlenlE which he shed= annually in the months of November and De- '"This'is the fleetest inhabitant of the prairie. No horse can compete ^ with it n sneed Quick of sight, keen of scent, and acute of ear, it , seems ever oS; abrt at the appro;ch of real or supposed danger,-now sS advancing towards the object of its alarm or curiosity, -ihen circling beSu with the flcetness of the storm-wind to mount some eminence iar away bevond reach, and gaze in security. Then, again, ere you have tiTe^ocS breath for admiration, it repeats its semi-gyi-ation from an onTosited Section, still nearer and swifter, till past,--as if indeed borne on Tw ngs of ightning-.-and yet again surveys yon in the distance. Now, urn iWrom point, to ]»oint it examines you upon all sides, as it cautious y V ^.P- round --then snuihng the breeze, it again calls to aid its fleetness S ir^ib, a^ with L velocfty of thought is lost to view in tire vast ex. ^""possessed of an inordinate share of inquisitiveness, it not unfrequentlv faUsTv'ctim to its own curiosity. The hunter, turbaned with a red hand- kercWe^ and half concealed behind some objec'c, first raismg, then depress- fn^ts head, Ihen withdrawing it entirely from view, then again chsclosmg it to the curious animal, is almost certain to allure his gan.e wuhm gun- 'Yhave seen numbers killed in this manner. In the spring season they appear more sensitive than at any other time, and are easily lured to tiieii %ith the exhibition of this strange propensity, I have ,ane and agairj hPPn minded of its more fully developed moral protoiype m man. now touStiv do we see persons around us who indulge their appetites aiiu n3ons- as often for Sere curiosity as fancied pleasure,-venturing near- ^r^d liS neter owards tlie objects that command their attent..n and frrP them mto the vortex of ruin, till, with sure and deadly aim, the shafts r/thpMer Dierce the wpniug vitals of morality, and plunge the vic- &SCfnto a 'yawning abyss, where they are lost to themselves, fn ROfietv and to the world — lost forever! j i„a„ Here then, il furnished for us a moral -.-Beware how you indulge a coSsidofKs,si^iuc)>Bs mto.tcr,levelW by these sagacou. ™. PAWNEE BRAVERY. HI The vicinity disclosed frequent boulders of red and dark ferraginoui nndstone, with a soil somewhat arenose, reclining upon a changeable deposite of sand and gravel, succeeded by a substratum of parti-colored and friable sandstone. The valley of the Blue is bordered by hills of graceful slope, both green and beautiful. I here remarked for the first time the appearance of cacti, which here- from becomes quite common, and proves the pest of many places adjacent to the mountains. The Blue is a deep, narrow stream, with a swift cun-ent, over a bed of gravel and pebbles, and is fringed by groves of oak, cotton-wood, and wU- 3W. Its valley is between one and two miles in width, with a superliceof variable fertility, but generally consisting of good arable land. This section of country is considered very dangerous in the summer and fall months, on account of tiie strolling bands of Pawnees which infest it The voyageur holds the latter in great dread, unless he chances to be accompanied by a sufficient force to bid defiance to their approach. A party, numericaUy weak and indifferently armed, meets with rough treat- ment at their hands while on tlie open prairies. Persons and property are rarely respected, and the unfortunate traveller is not only plundered, but often wliipt or murdered without mercy. This, however, may not be said of all — it is only the young warriors, when beyond the restraint of tlieir chiefs and seniors, who perpetrate such outrages ; though, to their praise be it said, instances of this kind are quite seldom, at present, compared with former years. The courage of these Indians is held in little repute by mountaineers ; and, that this opinion is not unfounded, the following incident will prove. It was related to me by an actor in the scene : A small party of whites en their cruise down the Platte with a cargo of furs, " lay by " to make meat, near the forks of that stream. Buffalo be- ing atBonie distance from camp, our adventurers were compelled to perform the duties of pack-horses in conveying the proceeds of their hunting ex- cursions. One day, four of them left for this object, and haying proceeded some six or eight miles, a war-party of Pawnees suddenly emerged from behind an eminence, directly fronting them. Alarmed at the unwelcome apparition, and imagining the whole country to be ahve witii Indians, tliey immediately ran, and were pursued towards camp. One of the number, a big, lazy fellow, and rather " green " withal, soon became tired, and sung out to his companions : " Don't let's run so fast. Blast me, if I can keep up !" " Come on, — come on !" cried they. " A thousand ' sh ved heaxia ' are upon us, half frozen for hair !" "Pooh ! I'll bet five dollars there aint thirty !" "Done ! But, who'll count the Woody varmints ?" "Why, I'll do it, just for my own satisfaction." So saying, he wheeled and advanced towards the Pawnees, as his wondering companions halted a little distance off, to learn the result of liis fool-daring. Surprised at this strange movement, the enemy also came to a stand, aflbrding a fine opportunity to ascertain tl^ieir number, which only amounted to tWMtefn; 58 PIIAIRIES Ox\ FIRE. "I've won !" exclaimed our nero. •« Let's charge, and give 'em the very The wordTvent for command, and tlie four hunters dashed boldly towards the terrified savages, wlio in turn fled, with greater velocity than tlioy aao called into exercise at any time during iheir advance,— ulustratuig the truth of the saying, "tyrants are always cowards.' i-egs proved quite convenient articles for the Pawnee braves ! They were out of sight in a few minutes, and were very careful noi to stop until they hau lett cheir pursuers far in the rear. , A Pawnse with a defenceless enemy in his power, like soiree exaraplea among the whites, is unrivalled in courage and daring; but where there is resistance offered, and fighting to be doas, he, as well as the Irishman s chickens, " comes up missing .'" He is always braves^t when farthest from danger. ■ , , < Wc were careful to observe the strictest vigilance at mg.it, to prevent the loss of horses from lurking bands of Indians. The animals of the caravan were uniformly picketed in compact order, and sentinels, posted at suitable distances, continued to pace their rounds, from dark till dayhght; while e;ich of the company slept by his arms, in readiness at any momenl to repel an attack. ^ > i . • *.» Ha\ang travelled for seven successive days, we made camp late in tire afternoon at the head of the right fork of Blue. During the day we had noticed a dense smoke some distance m the rear, but, with the wind in an opposite direction, no uneasiness was lelt on that account The sentries were soon at their posts, and everything was snugly disposed of for the night. Those not on duty improved the oppor- tunity to gain respite from the fatigues of the day, and, in a brief interval, were snoring away at an admirable rate. . , . ■, The polar-star by its "pointers" had just told the hour of midmght, when these hurried words rang through the camp : "Lave, ho! Lave!* Prairies on fire! Quick— catch up! catch up!" This startling announcement instantly brought every man to lus feet;— and such a scene as now met the eye ! How awful, and how grand ! 1 he wind, new chanoed and freshened, to the right and rear, was tossing t'le flames towards us, rapidly— fighting the heavens with their lurid glare, and transforming the darkness of night into a more than noonday splen- Here was, indeed, an "ocean of flame!" far as tlie eye could reach--- dancing with fiery wavelets in the wind, or roUiiig its bunung surges, m mad fiiry, eager to lick up every vestige of vegetation or semblance of combustible tiiat appeared in its way 1— now shooting its gluwing^missiles far, far ahead, like meteors athwart the sky, or towering aloit irom the weeds and i:ail grass, describing aiusl hiJeous and fantastic lornis, that, moving with the wiuu, more resembled a cotillion of demons among th ^ir native flames than aught terrestial !— then driving whole sheets ot the raging element into the withered herbage in front, like the advance scouts ♦ " Lave " appears to be a corruption of the Spanish word levar, to get up, (K ■rouse, aa from sleep. It is in common use among mountauieers. PLATTE RITER AND ITS VICINITT. W of an invading army, swept onward its desolating course, leaving in itr track naught save a blackened waste of smoking ruins ! Altogetner, it was a sublime spectacle, a stupendous scene, grand and imposing beyond description, and terrible in its beauty ! Commingled with eensations of wonder and admiration, it tended to impress the behclder with feelings of painful melancholy. The broad expanse, but a few momenli since arrayed in all the mourning grandeur of fading autumn, was now a naked desert, and every vestige of loveliness in an instant snatched froB view! How sudden, how aw ful, how marked tlio change ! and yet. how mag- nificent in its career, though doleful its sequel ! Wc were speedily under way, with as much earnestnesg of advance as that of righteous Lot, in his escape from burning Sodom.* For a while the pursuing enemy kept even pace, and threatened to overtake ua, till, headed by the strong wind, which meanwhile had changed its course, it began to slacken its speed and abate its greediness. About sunrise we crossed the regular Pawnee trails, (leading to and from their hunting grounds, which boro the appearance of being much fre- quented,) and at 10 o'clock, A. M., reached the Platte river, having trav- elled a distance of thirty miles withon„ halting. Tiie mountain road strikes the above stream at lat. 40° 41' 06" north, long. 99° 17' 47" west from Greenwich, some twenty miles below the head of Grand Island. Tliis island is densely wooded and broad, and extends for fifty or sixty miles in length. The river banks are very sparsely tim- bered, a deficiency we had occasion to remark during the remainder of our journey. The valley of the Platte at this place is six or seven miles wide, and the river itself between one and two miles from bank to bank. Its waters are very shallow, and are scattered over their broad bed in almost immmera- ble channels, nearly obscured by the naked sand-bars that bechequer its entire course through the grand prairie. Its peculiarity in this respect gave birth to the name of Plalte, (shallow,) which it received from the French, and Chartrc, (surface,) from the Mexicans, — the Indians, accord- ing to Washington Irving, calling it Nebraska,] a term synonymous with that of the French and Americans, — iiowever, I am ignorant m reference to the latter. • The great peril of our situation, and the pressing necessity of a hurried flight, may be readily inferred from the fact, that one waggon was freighted with a large quantity of gunpowder. None of us were quite so bravo or present-minded as eeveral Mexicans, in liie employ of Messrs. Bent & St. Vrain, on an occasion some- what similar. While journeying across tlie grand prairies, the powder-waggon acci- dentally caught fire, whicli was noticed immediately by the Mexican attendants, who hurriedly clasped it upon all sides, to prevent the veliiclo from being blown to pieces, Wilde one of them proceeded deliberately to extinguish the flames ! Neither could we stand comparison with a lieutenant of the Mexican army, at Santa Fe, who, on opening a keg of powder, made tise of a rkd-iiot iron in lieu of an auger, for tliat purpose. It 18 needless to say, a tremendous explosion followed. Several of the by- standers were killed, but the lieutenant miraculously escaped. He soon after receiv- ed a Captain's commission from the (Jommandcr-in-chief, in conaideration of hij mdomitahle couragf. ! t The Sioux have bestowed the appellation of Duck nver upon the North FoA Ol Pktt*. «0 THEORY RELATIVE TO THE PRAIRIES. The tottom upon the south bank is between thre« and four miles broad, and of a light, deep, and rich soU, occaaionally sandy, but covered with thick and lusty vegetation. Back from the valley, ranges of broken sand-hills mark the transition to the high arid prairies in the rear, where vegetation becomes more dwarfish and stinted in its growth, and is intermingled with Sequent cacti. These immense plains are generally clad with a short, curly grass, (tne buffalo grass,) very fine and nutritious, and well adapted to the sustenance of the countless herds of buf&lo and other wild animals that feed upon it. Their soil ia generally of a thin vegetable mould, upon a substratum of indurated sand and gravel. In many places it is quite sterile, producing little other than sand-burrs and a specimen of thin, coarse grass, that sadly fail to conceal its forbidding surface ; in others, it is but little better than a desert waste of sand-hills, or white sun-baked clay, so hard and impervious that neither herb nor grass can take root to grow upon it ; and in others, it presents a light supcrfice, both rich and productive, beclad with all that can beautify and adorn a wilderness of verdure. The springs and streams of water are " few and far between," — an evil, however, sliglitly atoned for by the occasional pools formed in favoring de- pressions during the rainy season, which are retained in their places by the extreme hardness of the soil. Were it not for these it would be almost unpossible, in many directions, to travel the vast prairies lying between Jie Arkansas and Missouri, from long. 32® 30' west from Washington to die Rocky Mountains. That this section of country should ever become inhabited by civilized roan, to any extent, except in the vicinity of large water-courses, is an idea too preposterous to be entertained for a single moment. As the reader is now inducted to the grand prairie as it is, it may not be amiss to say something relative to this phenomenon, before dismissing the subject in hand. The steppes of Asia, the pampas of South America, and the prairies of the great West, so far as my information extends, are possessed of one general and uniform character. There is something deeply mysterious associated with them, that puzzles tlie philosopher and cosmogonist to ex- plain. Why is it neither timber nor shrubs, as a general thing, are found within their confines ? Why have not the same causes operated here which produced the stately forests of other regions ? The above questions are often asked, and as often answered ; but nevei satisfactorily. Some respond by a reference to their frequent burnings, — others to Bed iniudacc. SLAUGiJ riiiC OF BUFFALO. G5 The guard time had already expired, and his partner on duty, perceiving the pleasant situation of the indomitable Jim, called tlie next " relieve, and retired. , , , . i .. .-n ,„, These paced their rounds, and the fourth guard succeed: >d, but stilJ ovir hero occupied tlie same place in wfhich he had lain hi3 " tour.' ine sentinels were about to take their posts, as a loud sharp voice resounded through camp, " Quit, there ! What d'ye mean ?" , , , , , j , Hastening to the spot from which the cry proceeded, who shoixld be seen bat slg Jim, in great agony, rubbing his foot with most pitiable His'slumbers had been disturbed by a falUng log, of the camp-fire, which had planted its glowing weight full against one of his feet,— becnspmg tlie sole of his shoe and severely scorching its tenant, before awakening liim. Dreaming some one had hold of his foot, and started by a sudden acutene^s of pain, he exclaimed as above quoted. The sentinels laughed at his mishap, and turning to pace their rounds, drawled out : „ , civ * " What d'ye mean? Sure enough, what d'ye mean! bhoot grass, kill horse, break gun, lay guard, burn shoe, and scorch foot ;— all in two days and two nights ! Poor devil,— why ye no born wid better luck . With the morning, the subject of his recent adventures called forth Iresh scintillations of waggish wit,— v/hile the unrivalled capacity of our hero, as a gormandizer, gave cue to the cuts that followed : _ « Well, my head for a foot-ball, if that aint the greatest idea yet. What l—roast foot, lasted with leather,— s.nd his own at tliat ! Such a meal none but Jim would ever have thought of !" ^^ " Why, man ! What put you in the notion of that dish ? " Strange, indeed, if you can't find the wherewith to stuff your devU, without cooking your feet ! Souse, to be sure ! Here, you can talie my hat !" , . • J • 41, The lucldess wight had now enough to engage hia attention dunng tne remainder of the journey, and began to wish he had never seen a moun- tain company, or left his sweet home in Missouri to cross the great prairies with such a crowd,— but all to no purpose ; he was too late to retrace his steps alone. Oct. nth Starting at early day, we travelled till about 11 o'clock, A. M., and halted for breakfast. The teams were scarcely turned to graze, when a dense band of buffiilo cows made their appearance, from the back prairie, wending their way towards the river. Expectation was on tip-toe, and all appetites doubly Bharpened for an anticipated feast, as our hunter and his assistant started to intercept the witless animals at the river bank. The two placed themselves in a cliosen position and awaited the heavUy moving throng, which soon advanced to witliin shooting distance. The sharp crack of a rifle now stopped their headway, and caused them to re- coil a few paces, leaving one of their number struggling in death. An other discharge followed, and the affrighted herd, were seen flying from th«ir conc*«Jed •nemy, with all the energy that innate drend of danger and 66 EXTilAORDlNARY EAT1N& death lent to their ready feet, — ^but not until another victim had dank the iod with the unsought libation of its heart's blood. It pained me, as I came up, to witness the noble beasts as they lay ex- fended upon the gore-dyed gi-ound. But tlie present was no time for regret ; we were to feed upon their carcases. The process of butchering was a new developement of that most use- fx science. The carcase was first turned upon the belly, and bmced to a j>osition by its distended legs. The operator then commenced liis labors by guciieriug the long hair of the " boss," and severing a piece obUquely at the junction of tire neck and shoulders,— then parting tlie liide from neck to luinp, a few passes of liis ready knife laid have the sides, — next paring away the loose skin and preparing a hold, with one hand he" pulled th'5 shoulder towards him and with the other severed it from the body; — cut- ting aslant the uprights of the spiiia dorsi and "hump ribs," along the late- ral to the curve, and partmg the " fleece " from the tough flesh at that point he deposited it upon a clean grass-spot. The same process being described upon the opposite side, the carcase was then slightly inclined, and, by aid of the leg-bone bisected at the knee- joint, the "hump-ribs" were parted from the vertebrs; after which, pass- ing his knife aside the ninth rib and around the ends at the midriflT, he laid hold of the dissevered side, and, with two or tlu-ee well directed jerks, re- moved it to be laid upon his choicely assorted pile ; a few other brief minu- tiae then completed the task. Meanwhile, divers of the company had joined the butcher, and, while some were greedily feeding upon liver and gall, otliers helped themselves to marrow-bones, ^^boiuHns," and intestinum medul i, a .„.,,.i« Thr) voyofreur is never more satisfied than when he has a good supply of buflalc^teef at his command. It is then his S^^^^V /"^^^^^^^t ' content, and his jocund voice and merry laugh evince the deep-felt pleasure and ratification that reign within. , , ,.. c ■ ..jj;.,^ Tllk not to him of the delicacies of civilized hfe,--of pies, puddings roups, fricasees, roast-beef, pound-cake, and desert,— he cares for none ot ,h;-f-? things, and will laugh at your ver(faTict/ .' n „„:,. He knows his own nreference, and will tell you your boasted excellencies are not to be compared with it. If yon object to the sameness of his sim nl- fare, he will recount the several varieties of its parts, and descant iTon each of their peculiar merits. He will illustrate the numerous and dissimilar modes of so preparing them, that tliey cannot fail to excite by their presence and appease by their taste the appetite of the most tasti- ' dious. And then, in point of \eali\ there is notliing equal to bufialo-meat [t. alone, vrill cure dyspepsy, prevent consumption, amend a broken const.- a.tion, put flesh unon the bones of a sfeeteton, and resiom a dead man again (n life!— if you will give credence to one half of the mamfold virtues lie carefully names in your hearing. Oct lAih. We were early en route, and made some twenty miles. Oar hunter, during the day, rejoined the caravan, laien with the best por- tions of three other fat cows, to add to the fund of life and good humor en- '''^Late^in the"afternoon, we made camp opposite a heavUy wooded island, rRJled Brady's Island, in memory of a man, so named, who was muraereU 'inon it by his companion some eight years ago. , ., . ' The t^vo were connected with a boat, laden with furs, on its passage to the States. They had frequently quarrelled, and were generally unon otherwise bad terms. On tlie day of the fatal occurrence, they were lefj, alone in camp by tlie rest of the boat's crew, who went in quest of buflalo. At their return, Brady was found lying m his blood^lall- ed, as his companion affirmed, by the accidental discharge of his own The tale was received quite doubtingly, and its listeners were only de- terred from the execution of summary vengeance upon the murderer by thought of the bare possibility of its truth. u * v. • The body of the unfortunate man was buried near the spotr-bnt being •obsequftntly disinterred by the wolves, his bones were left to ble-xh and i^i^i^Z^un and r^^-^'f^%^Z^X^^L^ been so long and cruelly denied. hprame of the supposed mur- J?? ''£' vt'a-SrJ'LSTS.lt^LSl of sXng, wo^ than death, till death itself in P''Y »=;™» '°„7Jw' ^Med, the shallowness 5f4X S%?ih°L*Thrn;SSf hetn^ S inSfferent walke.was '"Hiilom^des'on'Seir arrival at the Pawnee village, ^nt two Indians to bringTm in 'and contt„„ed St,eTbS "olZr'St im son,e eight ^^^Iheywent. He was the murderer, at the point of death. His story ""' Thp"Shtfucceeding the departure of his companions, in an attempt to L*Sy"Zrtar£s^?eiflSlwiunds in a proper S^tmer He man- scarcely iiiove, flannel to an upright stick, to tell tne '\r:^l^ir^^'i-as no nearer broken. It was a spectacle vested with melancholy animation. , The pawing goring, bellowing, licking of wounds, and struggles of rival afiection, re mained the same, with no visible .abatement of their vehemency. The sun had set, and the sable hue of twilight empalled the blood-dank .slaughter-ground. The death-dealing rifle had ce;ised its sharp crack, and tiie gore-scenting wolves, half staiTed and eager for their supposed prey, came flocking upon every side, mingling their wobegone bowlings with the piteous moans of the spell-bound herd, and the loud whistlings of the prairie winds, — and yet, they lingered. At last the impatient hunter advanced. iVIore affrighted at the presence of man than the companionship of death, they no\y ga\e way, and reluc- tantly left the field to him, who had ?o unfeelingly occasioned their burtlien of mourning and woe ; — still, ever and anon stopi)ing to gaze, as if longing to return and die with those they loved ! All hands were now summoned to aid at the work of butchery ; but the fast-enshrtjuding darkness soon drove us back to camp, leavmg the task not half completed. Our withdrawal from the premises was the signal for possession by the eager wolves, whose ceaseless yelpings the livelong night, made the gloomy interval doubly dismal. By morning, nothing but bones and thick pieces o skin marked the scene ot their recent reveUingsl Thus early, I had learned, that to approach buffalo wnJi success, the hunter should carefully maintain the leeward, such being their remarkable sensi- tiveness, they will sooner flee from the smell tlian the sight of a man Phftir Bense of smell with the wind, in fact, far exceeds tlieir acopp ""* BIG JIM'S FOURTH ADVENTURE. 73 ^ ..... ■■..«.».ii. fri-T^ . ^ ,. -nrii.i.ii__.Li[-fi ■^ 1.1 ▼ision. It ii so extremely acute, that even the fresh footsteps of a man. croeeinff their path, are to them a sure cause of alarm and flight. Of all the diversities of game indigenous to the mountains and prairies of the great West, witJi the exception, perhaps, of the grizzly bear, no animal is more tenacious of lite than the buffalo.. To shoot it in the head, is an inane effort. No rifle can project a bail with sutii-ient force to per- forate the thick hair and hide to its brain, through the double scull-bone that protects it. A paunch shot is equally vain. The only sure points for the marksman are, the iieart, lights, kidneys, or vertebrae ; and even then the unyielding victim not unfrequently escapes. Buffalo, wounded m the skirts of the lights, have been known to live for several days afterwards. I have witnessed their escape, even after the re- ception of fifteen bullet-wonnds, and most of them at such points as would have proved fatal to almost any other animal. In the summer of '43, 1 myself killed one of them, that had been shot through the pussy surface at the butt of thr heart, apparently four or five days previous, which doubtless would have recovered had it remained un- molested. A gun, suitable for kilhng this kind of game, should never carry to ex- ceed forty balls to the pound — a lesser bore would be almost entirely use- less. The distance generally required for a shot, the smallness of the ball, its liability to variation from the wind, with its failure to " hold up " and retain its force, contribute to render the use of such a piece little else than idle waste of ammunition. OcU nth. The sun arose bright and clear, and with its first appearance the caravan was in motion. Proceeding up the South Fork some ten miles we halted for breakfast, and made arrangements for fording the stream. Near us lay the carcasg of one of the cows wounded on the previous evening, and as yet scarcely dead. She had travelled thus far after being shot in the lights. Our crossing was effected with little difficulty, but occupied till late in the afternoon. The river was full a mile wide and very shallow, with a soft sandy bed, requiring the strength ot all the united teams to each wag- gon. The day proved cold, and the water was like an application of ice to the naked skin. Our teamsters, who were compelled to cross and recross, acme dozen times, felt in not the best humor, and were better pleased than any one else at the termination of their unpleasant task. Having sately gained the opposite bank, we travelled up the river five or six piiles, and halted for the night. During our course the bottoms upon either side presented one dense, interminable band of bufialo, far as the eye could reach. The whole prairie pictured a Uving mans, moved by impulsive dread, as the breeze heralded our approach, and the countless multitude made way before and on either hand. Ever and anon, an old Lull would linger, as i. to intimidate, and not un- frequently venture within gun-shot. One fellow, in particular, passed side- long, for a mile or more, stopping at intervals to gaze upon us, shaldng his •hMTgy head in defiance, as much as to say, " you dare not come near !' Big Jim taw this, and his pride was wounded. The bull, in his opinion 74 RARE POLITENESS. had challenged the whole party, and there wte no one stout-hearted enongb to accept it. Here was a chance for a full display of his bravery and skill. Ever Bince we h?.d reached the buffalo range, his p*oud spirit had yearned to be- come the death of some one of these terrible iionsters, that he might relate the deed of perilous exploit to wondering posterity, and incite the rising generation to emulate his noble achievement. But, alas, for the fadeless laurels he might otherwise have won, in an evil hour liis rilie had been sacrificed for the extermination of a huge, venomous serpent. He did the deed at one fell blow ; — brave, but unfortu ,nate ! Yet he had one consolation amid his troubles, — no victory is ever gained willioui. some loss to the conquerors. Still, he needed his gun, for without it how was he to avenge the foul 'ii- Bult the fav^ge beast of the prairie was even now hurUng in the very face of the shrin.king crowd ? Something must be done. With Uv3i-.e cogitations, an idea struck him, — he could borrow a rifle ; so, advancing- to a comrade, he exclaimed : "Do lend me your rifle one minute !" " Yes, Jim," was the ready reply. " But see you don't break it over the first paltry little snake you come across !" "That's a lie. 'Twas a big rattle-snake I broke mine over. 'Twasn't a y^icry little snake !" Thus, vindicating his assaulted reputation, he took the gun and hastened to prostrate the impudent barbarian inviting attack. Jim looked at the buil, and the bull looked at Jim, — shaking his head, and throwing the loose sand irum beneath him high into the air with his feet, and goring the ground with his horns of burnished ebony. If the creature had looked terrible before, he now looked fourlbid more so, in Jim's estima- tion. Tiiinkin'^- caution the parent of safety, our hero was unwilling to venture further, and so, prostrating himself at full length behind a clustre of absinth; (s'ge,) he planted his battery, having his high-crovimed hat for a rest, and blazed away at the bull's head. The Jiaidened wretch stood the shot wichout flinching. Looking for a moment ex ths spot from whence the strange salute liad proceeded, and again shaking his head and snorting with scorn, he wheeled and slowly trotted ofl'. Eager to get a secoua trial to finish the work so nobly begun, our hero commenced pursuit. Seeing him advancing, the bull thought it time to show his heels, and in a few minutes was lost in the distance. The courageous Nimrod now, for the first time, bethought him of Mb hat, which, in the ardor of his bold charge, he had left at the spot chosen as his stand to huri death and destruction to the naughty bull. He hastened to regain it — but no hat could be found ; — the winds had borne it far away over the prairie, to be worne out in search of a wearer, and tho unlucky bravo, hatless, rejoined the caravan. Here the truth at once flashed upon the minds of the waggish clique^ that had hitlierto proved his sore annoyance, and they began anew : " Now that beats me, clear out ! How came you to give the bull yow bat and leave yourself bare-headed ? That's another wrinkte I'' SCENERY AT ASII CREEK. 15 "It's no such thing," said Jim. " The. wind took it away;— n.nd it\ none of your business neither. I j'aidfor it!" "True. But what did the wind want with your hat? Sure, if \'^ needed a foot-ball, to toss over the rrairie'?, it would have taken your heaf^ the U^h'esi of the tv;c '."' " You're a fool !" retorted Jim indignantly. " There, now. Tiiat's the time you coteht it, my boy. Why, fellow, Mr. Jeems took oft his hat, out of pure politeness, — to win the good opinion of the bull. He were righ.t. Didn't you see how the gentleman-cow bov.ed and scraped in turn. Why, he throid'd the dirt dean over his back, not io be outdone in good breeding ! Ah, but the pepky win'l ! Whi'^i Mr. Jeems were showing his brotten up, what had it to do, but to snatch 'lis hat and run off wilh it ! Mr. Jeems are no fool ! and the feller what says beam, — (I 'want you all to understand me; Mr. Jeems have been most shamefully abu?ed and misu'?ed, and I can whip the chaps what's done it — provided they'll let me ; — I say, then, I want you all to underst-ind me !) Mr. Jeems are no fool, and the man what says he am — is, — (I can't think of words bad enough,) — is — is, as near the mark as though he'd drove centre!" " Aye. Jim's right. You are all a pack of dough-heads to make fun of him in the way you do. Suppose you'd be struck comical ! Then what'd ye think of yourselves !" " Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, and go bare-headed ! Wat him mean ?" " I say, Jim. When 're going a hunting again ? — 'case I want to go 'long too!" CHAPTER VI. Ash Creek. — Pawnee and Sioux battle-^ound. — Bread-root. — ^The Eagle's Nest.— Mad wolf, — Number and variety of prairie wolves, — their sagacity. — Mad biill. — Making and curing meat. — Big Jim still unfortunate. — Johnson's creek. — McFar- lan's Castle. — Deceptiveness of distances. — Express irora the Fort. — Brave Bear. — Bull Tail. — Talk with the Indians. — Speech of Marto-cogershne. — Reply. — Tab- tungah-sana's address. Oct \%th. Bkaring to tlie right, over a high undulating prairie, we struck the North Fork of the Platte, after a drive of about twelve miles, and continuing up its left bank a short distance, camped for the s ght at the mouth of Ash Creek. The atream at this place is a broad bed of sand, entirely dry, except in the spring months. Higher up, however, it affords a generous supply of pure running water, sustained by the numerous feeders that force their way into it, from the high grounds dividing the two rivers. The valley is of variable width, and well timbered with beautiful ash groves, from which the creek derives its name. Here are also found seve- ral varieties of wild fruit indigenous to the mountains. As a wbttl« it 78 BREAD-ROOT. -THE EAGLE'S NEST ^VW^^^V^^^-'^^WV-i^^^^lfr^Ni*-^***^^/^ preeents to the eye a prettj' flower-garden, walled in by huge piles d' argillaceous rock, and watered by murmuring streamlets whose banks are ornamented with shade trees and shubbery. Near camp had been tlie scene of a fierce and bloody battle between the Pawnees^ and Sioux, in the winter of 1835. The afiray commenced early m the morning, and continued till near night. A trader, who was present with the Sioux, on the occasion, describes it as having been remarkably close. Every inch of ground was disputed — jnow the Pawnees advancing upon the retreatmg Sioux ; and now the Sioux, while the Pawnees gave way ; but, returning to the charge with redoubled fury, the former once more recoiled. The arrows flew in full showers, — the bullets whistled the death-song of many a warrior, — the yells of combating savages filled the air, and drowned the lesser din of arms. At length arrows and balls were exhausted upon both sides, — but sull the battle raged fiercer than before. War-club, tomahawk and butcher-knife were bandied with terrific force, as the hostile parties engaged hand to hand, and the clash of resounding blows, commingling with the clamor of unearthly voices which rent the very heavens, seemed more to prefigure the contest of fiends than aught else. Finally the Pawnees abandoned the field to their victorious enemies, leaving sixty of their warriors upon the ensanguined battle-ground. But the Sioux had paid dearly for their advantage ; — forty-five of their bravest men lay mingled with the slain. The defeated party were pursued only a short distance, and then permitted to return without further molestation to their village, at the Forks of the Platte. This disaster so completely disheartened the Pawness, they immediately abandoned their station and moved dovm the river some four hundred miles, — nor have tliey again ventured so high up, unless in strong war- parties. About the same time the village on RepubUcan fork of Kansas was also abandoned, and its inhabitants united with the Loups. The evidences of this cruel death-liarvest were yet scattered over the prairie, whose bones and sculls looked sad, indeed. One of the latter was noticed, near camp, with a huge wasp's nest occupying the vacuum once filled by the subtle organs of intellect. Strange tenant, truly, of a human scull, — but, perhaps, not an unfit antitype of the fierce passions that whilom claimed it as their dwelling place. A specimen of the bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) was procured from the creek-bank by one of the voyageurs. This is very common in the vicinity of the mountains, and attains a size from twenty to tliirty inches in circum* ference. It is taprooted, and generally prefers the rich eandy soil of bot- toms and ravines, — not unfrequently penetrating to the depth of five or six feet. In shape, it is much like the common beet. Its exterior is covered with a thick hgument of tough fibres, curiously interwoven, enveloping a white pulpy substance, which is very sweet and pleasantly tasted. The day following we proceeded some twenty milM, and camped tit a place called the Eagle's Neat. THE NEV/ YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY AS7"CR. I >■ \rx TILDIlN FOU^.LA ■ :ON5 j The War Eagle. — Page 79. pu ffOLVES,— THEIR SAOACITT. 79 A few scattering trees at the right of the bottom, here mark the transi- tion to the high prairie. One of these was the war-eagle's eyry, npon which she rears her annual brood, and teaches it to soar fer away, or levy tribute from the surrounding wilderness. The proud bird of Jove was yet sailing aloft, in silent majesty, almost lost to vision in the long space of intervening blue '^at told the grandeur of her flight ; and, tinged with the purple and gold of tlie setting sun, she seemed looking down with a jealous eye upon the unwonted invaders of h© earthly home. A few light clouds, garnished with day's departing glory danced atliwart the western sky, as tiie full moon arose, hastening to re enter her nightly pathway, and course amid the array of glittering worlds and smile upon the wide realms of Solitude ; — while countless herds oi grazing bufialo covered the prairies on either side of the broad and silenr river ; and naught met the listening ear, save the doleeome hooting of the midnight owl, as she resumed her nocturnal ditty, to enhance the deep melancholy of loneliness ; or the shrill whistlings of the prairie-Avinds, as they sported in mirtli and chanted their requiems to the dying year ; or the terrific bellowings of the hoarse-toned bison, the softening cadence of whose voices sounded trebly mournful as it swept far along and became lost in the distance ; or yet, the dismal howhngs of the half-starved wdves, that gathered by scores upon every hiU-top and renewed, in more piteoua accents, meur ceaseless concert ; — all these united to invest the scene, so magnifi- cent in itself, with a savage wildness, at once incitive of terror and admi- ration. In our progress during the day I remarked, at frequent intervals, bar« places coated with saline efflorescences, and occasional plats of fine bloish grass, (herba salee,) — appearances quite common from this onward. (Mr night slumbers were disturbed by the quick discharge of firearms, which instantly brought every man to his feet, rifle in hand. The canse of this alarm was the appearance of a mad wolf among the caravan ani- mals, and several shots were fired before the guard could despatch him. He proved one of tlie largest of his species, and looked fearful as his blood-red eyeballs and foaming mouth were exposed by the camp-fire. In the morning it was ascertained he had bitten nine head of horses and cattle. The buflalo range aflbrds every variety of wolves, common to the moun- tains and regions still further west. Of these there are five distinct classi- fications, viz : The big white, or buffalo wolf ; the shaggy brown ; the black ; the gray, or prairie wolf ; and the cayeute, (wa-chunka-monet,) or medicine-wolf of the Indians. The white and brown wolves are the most ntimerons, and follow the buflalo in bands of hundreds, subsisting upon the carcases of such as die of themselves or are slaughtered as their necessities demand. These wolves behave ■with great sagacity in their predatory operationsj and appear to exercise a perfect understanding and concert of action with each other on such occasions. First, stationing themselves by files at given distances along the course their intended victim is e.Tpected to run, *wo or more of them enter the herd of unconscious baffido, and, ^ingUpg 80 A MAD BULL. _ U'l- > H - I 'i~ ' ^'^^^^■■■■■■*"* ■■'-■■■ out the fattest one, drive it to the track at which their companions awaw to t^e part in the grand race. This done, the victim is made to run Se^St betwein two rows of wolves. As it advances others jou. Seir fresh numbers to the chase, till at length, tired down and exhausted n steength. the iU-fated animal falls ready prey to their g^eedmf^^^- ^^^^ Sor creature is first hamstrung to prevent its escape, and then literally tS Walk wolf is seldom met with in these parts. It nearly equals the white and brown in size, and is fully as large as the common cur-dog. The prairie wolf is not more than half the size of the above mentioaed, andmuKss ferocious. Its color is of a dark giay, and its fur quite ^''ThfcS'eute or medicine-wolf compares with the common feist, and is of ?grayfsh color, much Uke that of 'the wild rabbit of the f^tes^ Ite fur is fine and thick, and might be turned to good account for the manu- 'X'lndiri^h tany superstitious notions in regard to this ani- mal and hold it in great veneration. They consider it as the messenger Employed by the G^ Spirit, on special occasions to herald the approach oHvents interesting to the welfare of his red children, and for that reason they are never known to harm or molest it. Just at davlieht, a large band of buffalo crossed the river nearly oppo- eitetfcamp^ Itwas.headed by an old bull, that led the way, grunting and beUoSg as he advanced, as if in mock personation of the bugieman ot TcorpsTf civalry. Some three or four hundred cows and caves fol- ^3 side by side^ with marked and regular tread, Uke P atoons of infantry marchine in set step to music, presenting a truly comical exhibition. Av^lgeur seized his rifle and saluted with its contents the music- master anS captain-general of the advancing army, as he was about to ascend Se river bank. In an instant the whole detachment to " rignt abou fece" and retreat precipitately to the rearward shore, with no other music thSi the clatter of hoofs 'and the splashing of water, or order than Se coSed rivalry for speedy escape from the unexpected presence oi danger. OcU 20iTi. Resuming our course, during the forenoon, the strange de- nortment of a bufialo bull near the trail arrested attenUon. ^ He was nSming in a circle, at the height of his speed, and narrowing its sphere at each gyration. Several of us rode out to him,-but he sldl contS fwith frothing mouth and protruding tongue, swoUen to the ZordistenTSn of his^ws, rolling eye-balls, hke globes of clotted gore; S tuowing for pain,) foUoUg the fast-decreasing hmits of his strange "r'soTc— crESlng-round and round, with faltering, hall Btumbhng step^ and finaUy fell prostrate before us, apparen ly in the last narSvsm of moWal agony.^ In vain he struggled to rise whde his tongua ESd from between his jaws, chafed in fruitless eflbrt to close them, and his headfkeepiS^tfme with th^ convulsive throes of Ws ^ast-w^^ng ^2*> tore up the ^ine-sod and lashed the ground m the mad fury of effort. BIG JIM STILL UNTORTUIfATR 81 The spectacle was one of the most striking exhibitions of excruciating pain I ever witnessed. Even the rough mountaineers were excited to Eity, and gladly alleviated his miseries by hastening his end. A friendly uUet put a period to his sufferings, and placed him far beyond the reach of summer's heat and winter's cold, mad wolves and all the inexpressible horrors of hydrophobia. At our noon encampment we commenced the process of •' making meat," preparatory to passing a long distance devoid of game ; and, as the reader may be anxious to know what kind of an operation this ir,, I will explain. It consists simply in cutting into thin shces the boneless parts of buffalo, or other meat, and dryuig tliem m the wind or sun. Meat thus cured may be preserved for years without salt. Ropes of raw hide were stretched around the waggons, upon which the results of our labor were left to the finishing effects of tlie wind and sun as we proceeded, — thus making an important saving in the item of time. It is astonishing how long a time fresh meat may be kept without injury, upon the grand prairies, in dry weather, when it receives the free access of air. Some of that killed on our first arrival among buffalo was yet hanging to the waggons, as sweet and sound as ever. I have known it to be preserved, in this way, for ten or twelve days in the heart of summer. Meat, packed in snow, while in a frozen state, may be retained fresh for months without injury. I have known an instance of its being thus kept from January till June. The air is so pure and dry, it requires but httle effort to preserve meat, for any requisite length of time, almost at any season of tlie year. Our hunter, having proceeded in advance of the waggons during the afternoon, was overtaken about sundown at a place selected for night- camp, which he had ornamented wi'.h the carcases of three cows, — and there again, was soon witnessed another display of rare feasting, such as mountaineei:s alone know how to appreciate and enjoy. The night proved cold and uncomfortable, and the bright-glowing camp fires presented most captivating inducements to the shivering sentinels, as they paced tlieir dreary ruuiids, to t>lep witliin its cheering influence. Big Jim, who was on the third " relieve," thought it too bad he should be com- pelled to suffer so much fi-om cold, while a nice warm fire was permitted to waste its kind heat upon the bleak air of night, without so much as one to enjoy its beneficence. No, it would not do. " Why mayn't I just as well stand guard at the fire, as elsewhere ? I can, I'm sure. I'll stand this time, and not lay as I did before, and then there'll be no danger of falling asleep and burning one's self; nor'U they have the chance to twit me about lying guard and burning shins. I'll head 'em this time, and they wont laiow the differ- ence." So saying, he approached the fire, and, giving it a kick, extended hia hands towards its blaze, — ever and anon rubbing them together and then again spreading them to receive its pleasing warmth ; then turning hia back to partake alike of its comforting influences and obviate the jealouBy Ujat might otherwiie be engendered between li-ont and reai. 82 JOHNION't CRBEK. Now, he stands attent, — he hears something move. He stretches himself jO his full height, on tip-toe, and gazes in the black envelope of surround ing night, made doubly obscure in contrast with the refulgence of the camp-fire, " How dark it has grown !" said Jim. " What can it be ? Wonder if it's Indians. Pooh ! it's nothing but the wind. Bless me, I can't see the use of a poor devil's standing guard on such a dark night as this ! (step- ping backward still neaier the fire,) he can't see nothing, if he does. Feugh, — what is it smells so ? (turning round.) Good gracious, how hot my back is !" The mystery of Jim's present predicament is easily explained. The skirts of his jeans coat, having come in contact with the wind-tossed flames, caught fire, and were burned to the shoulders before he was aware of the accident. The garment was rendered entirely useless, and even liis panta- loons were burnt to his skin, in several places. Jim began to think it as bad to stand as to lay guard, and concluded that, of the two, fire was more dangerous than Indians ; — for, one thing was certain, the Indians had never yet injured him, but he could not say as much of fire I In tlie morning, as may be supposed, our hero's last mishap was the prolific subject of comment, and the wags were promptly on the alert to amuse themselves still further at his expense : " Say, would you believe it ! — That's the way Jim 's hit upon to shine in this crowd, — he burns up his old coat to make a light /" " Ah, ha ! So he means to shine by the light of his old clothes, and come it over us in an underhand manner ! Jim, that '11 pever do ; — I tell you, once for all." " Wonder if he wont bum up himself next ?" " He ? No. He's too green and ^appy to bium himself, and so he takes his old clothes !" " Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, bum shoe, scorch foot, lose hat, stick coat in him fire ! Poor fellow. No can do without Jim, no how." The tJiird day succeeding the last mentioned adventure, we passed a stream, called by the traders Johnson's creek, in memory of a man by that name who was murdered in its vicinity, several years since, by the Indians. He was a missionary, and on his way to Oregon, with a party headed by one John Gray. As they were about to raise camp, one morning, a band of Yanktau-Sioux came charging over the hills, and preparations were made to resist them. Such a course Mr. Johnson felt scrupulous of acced- ing to, and stoutly protested against it, — afiirming it to be wrong. As the savages approached, the ill-fated man stepped forward to meet then unarmed, despite the remonstrances of his comrades, — imagining the Indians would not kill him, as he was a missionary and had came to do them good. They, however, proved regardless of him or his intended good, and he feU the victim of his own foolish credulity. Three Indians feU in the con iict that ensued, and he and they filled the same grave. THE BHAVB BEAM. 83 Oct. i4ih. About noon we crossed Gonneville's creek, a large easterly affluent of the Platte, This stream also derives its name from a trapper, killed near it in an Indian fight, some eight years since. Upon tlie south bank of Gonneville's creek, ten or twelve miles from the river, is a singular natural formation, known as the Court House, v McFarlan's Castle, on account of its fancied resemblance to such a struc- ture. It rises in an abrupt quadrangular form, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and covers an area of two hundred yards in length by one hundred and fifty broad. Occupying a perfectly level site in an open prairie, it stands as the proud palace of Sohtude, amid her boundless do- mains. Its position commands a view of the country for forty miles around, and meets the eye of the traveller for several successive days, in joume) ing up the Platte. We have been in sight of it for three days, and even now seem no nearer than at first, notwithstandfng our course, meanwhile, has borne not far from a direct line towards it Here, for the first time, I remarked the deceptiveness of distances, on the high prairies and in regions adjacent to tlie mountains. Sometimes an object will appear as if within a mile, at most, which cannot be reached Bhort of fifteen or tweniy miles ; then, again, objects will seem to be much further otF than they really are. I attribute this, in part, to three several causes : — First, the variable state of the atmosphere, in regard to density. Second, the absence or plenitude of humid exhalations and efiluviee in the air of diflerent regions. Third, the peculiar locality of some places in regard to the reception of the sun's rays. In passing from Gonneville's creek to Fort Platte, we encountered no more buffalo, — these animals having been driven back into the high prairies by bands of strolling Indians. If the prospect had hitherto been lonesome, it now seemed threefold lonely. The liard-beaten footpaths tliat had furrowed the bottoms and plains, in all directions, ever since our first entrance to the bulTalo range, were still seen ; but, unhonored by the presence and unmarked by the foot- prints of their whilom travellers, they looked like the once oft-trodden streets of some deserted city. Late in the afternoon we were joined by two engages from Fort Platte, whose object it was to hasten our advance. Soon after, we entered upon a stretch of burnt prairie, and were compelled to travel till daylight the next morning, before a sufficiency of grass could be found for a camping place. Oct. 25ih. Resuming our course about midday, we had proceeded only a few miles, when a mounted Indian appeared upon the opposite bank of the river, and accosted us : •* Chay, cullo ! — Hanno chaum-pa-monet ha Mena-huska tour ?" (Teli me, friend ! — Are those the Long-knife'r" A^aggoiis ?) • TUm tern ieenu to call for a word of eiplan. don. Our company waa designated tf tlM Indiaoi mm the Long-knife, or American company, — a term by which lu 84 BULL TAIL. On being answered in the affirmative, he commenced crossing to join us, Plunging into the river with his horse, he had proceeded about midway fif the stream, when the panting beast suddenly sank into the quicksand, throwing its rider head foremost into the water. At length, having effected a ford, he hurried up to us, profusely dripping with v/et as evidence of the thoroughness of his recent drenching. First shaking hands with the company, he began to inquire about liquor, affirming tlie waggons contained that article, and adding, it was " right the Ijong-knife should bring the fire-water to give to the red man," as did the Bad-medicine, — but it was wrong to sell it. For his part he would not buy the fire-water. He would buy blankets, knives, beads, and ammunition, — not the fire-v/ater ; but the Long-knife siiould give it to him. The personage thus introduced was one of the chiefs of the Brule- Sioux, and sported tlie name of Marto-cogershne. or Brave Bear. He was a turbulent fellow, that proved the pest of his village traders. Slim and spare-made in person, he was somewhat pale ami sickly looking, and seemed about thirty years of age. His arms were a short fusee, with a bow and arrows slung to his shoulders, and a butcher-knife affixed to his belt. His hair was long, parted in front, and turned backv/ards ; that upon the occiput, being bound in a cluster with panther's sldn, hung in a plated cue and almost trailed tlie ground, while a lone eagle's plume completed his head- dress, A robe enveloped his body, which, with moccasins, leggins, and breech-clotli, constituted his full costume, — a description of dress respond- ing to that almost universally common among mountain tribes. We were soon joined by ethers of his people, who eagerly enquired re- specting the amount of liquor brought with us. Among these were several individuals recognized by our voyageurs as old acquaintances ; particularly one, an old chief called Bull Tail, (Tah- tunga-sana,; who was distinguished in attire from all his fellows by the addition of a hair-seal cap and a frock-coat, which he had received as pre eents from the whites. One of our party gave a favorable account of tlie old fellow, and related a story much to liis credit. Tlie narrator, during the previous winter, wliile searching for stray horses among the hills, had become so bewildered he was unable to find his way back to camp. He thus wandered for four successive days, unarmed, with out food, and with but a single robe for covering. His destiny would, doubtless, have been to perish, had not the kind hearted Tah-tunga-sana discovered him, and, pitying his forlorn condition, taken him to the village, upon his own horse, some twenty miles off, going himself on foot the entire distance. Here, the lost one was treated to the best tiie lodge of his de- liverer afforded, and, when sufficiently recovered, he was escorted fo the nearest station of the whites. I turned lor another look at the worthy chieftain, who now rode up and greeted his protege with much cordiality. Americans are knovra among them. The American Fur Company, employing almost exclusively Frenchmen, or individuals speaking the French language, receives the appellation of Wah-ceicha, or the Bad-medicine company, — a phrase tmiversaJly i^ ptied to the Frerch among the mountaiii tribes. .^^^^'S k Chief of the BrulS Sioux. — Pa^e 84. SPEECH OF MARTO-COGERSHNB. 87 He appeared to be about eighty years of age, and was gray-headed, »pare-visaged, and much wrinkled. His coat, buttoned close around him, served for a robe, while his matted ear-locks disclosed upon the one side a raven's and upon the other a liawk's feather, for ornaments. His face, like those of hia companions, was liberally bedaubed with vermilion, and each cheek embellished with alternate spots of white and black, by way of variety. His only weapons were a bow, arrows, and a tomahawk-pipe. As a whole, he presented ratlier a shabby and ludricrous appearance, that, were it not for the recollection of his worthy conduct, would have ex- cited, in the mind of the beholder, far more of contempt than interest. A Sioux squaw, the wife of a French engage, accompanying us on her return from the States, now received the marked attention of our visitors. It is rare that an Indian will shake hands with a woman ; but now, they might break through the restraints of custom ; this was a special case ; she had visited the white man's lodge, and could tell them many interesting things, — she was sometliing more than a common squaw, — they might shake hands with her. She was accordingly greeted in a most flattering manner, and found tedious employment in answering the numerous ques- tions with which she was plied. Continuing for a few miles further, we made camp just at nightfall, and were promptly joined by a new recruit of inquisitive visitors, from an ad- joining village. The whole throng of Indians now numbered some tliirty, and demanded a " talk " with the Long-knife. Upon this a circle was formed, with the whites upon one side and Indians upon the other, when Marto-cogershne Dpened tlie harangue in behalf of his people. He commenced in a low, distinct tone of voice. His robe, dawn loosely jiround him, was held to its place by the left hand, exposing his right arm and shoulder. As he proceeded he became more animated, and seemed to enter into the full spirit of his discourse. The modulations of his voice its deep intonations and expressive cadences, coupled with a corresponding appropriateness of every look and gesture, presented one of the most per- fect specimens of delivery I ever witnessed. His speech, as imperfectly translated upon the occasion, ran as follows ; "Long-knife : We are glad to see you — we are glad to see your people, and shake you all by the hand, that we may smoke together and be friends. " Long-knife : We are glad the Great Spirit has put it into your heart to return with the road-travellers, (waggons,) and the white bufliilo, (oxen,) and the inedicine-dogs, (horses,) bearing fire-water, (whiskey,) blankets, and many other good things, ere yet the chill winds and snows have com- pelled His children to light the lodge-tires of winter. The Long-knifie brings choice things to the red man, and it is good that we b-ade, (Ap- plause.) " The Great Spirit is good to His children. To us He has given the buffelo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope, that we may be fed and clothed, and furnished with lodges to siielter' us from the storms and cold. To ua He has given the mountains and prairies, for hunting grounds. For us He bajs taught the atrearas to flow, and planted trees upon their banka, to giv« 88 THE REPLY. us food and drink, that we may meet around our lodge-fires with comfort and rejoice in His goodness, even while he spreads his white robe upon the hills, and lays the couch of winter upon the plains, .^ , , , . "All these— aU this country— everything that the Long-kmfe beholds are ours. The Yellow-hair* said tiuly,— all, all belong to us ;— we have them — tlie Great Spu-it has given them to us,— they are ours ! (Great ap- plause.) . . J 17 "Long-knife: You have come to trade with us:— it is good. Your people are wise, and make many things ;— you bring them to us, and we take them ; but we give you robes and horses in their stead ;— we pay you for them all. Yet, the Long-knife pays not for all he takes from us. " Do I say the Long-knife steals ? No. The Long-knife will not stea.. He says, none but bad men steal, and the Long-knife is not bad. But yet he takes our properly without paying for it > He kills our game, he eats our meat, he burns our wood, he driliks our water, and he travels our country,-- and wliat does he give tlie red man in exchange for all tins ? (Unbounded applause.) , " Long-knife and friend : My people are generous,— they are brave,— tliey are all soldiers. The Long-knife bears the fire-water m his road travellers, (waggons ;) — we have heard of it and are glad. « My people would drink of the fire-water that their strong hearts may become stronger. It is good that thev should drink it,— it is good that the Long-knife should give it to them -, that we be twice glad to see him, and bless him in our hearts v/hile we drink around our lodge-fires. (Ap- plause.) . , „ "Long-knife: Would you be our friend ? Then give us the fire-water. My people are generous, but they are brave. The Long-knife h^s taken our property, let him refuse not the fire-water, lest they be angry and rise like the mountain bear, nei-ved for conflict. Then will they take it ot themselves and avenge the wrongs of the red man !" (Great applause.) Upon this, the Brave Bear resumed his seat, and the commandant began his reply, which was rendered mto the Sioux language, by their inter- preter. The purport of it was : , n i • " It is true, the Great Spirit is good to His children. He made all tlungs of which the Brave Bear speaks, and He has given them to his children. The white and the red man are alike his children; the buffalo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope, with the wood, the water, and the whole country around, equally belong to both. " I and many people liave come as friends, to trade with you. We have smoked with you before. The Long-knife takes nothing from you he pays not for. He buys tlie thmgs he bears to you in a far distant countiy, and throws for tliem the white-iron.f He brings them to you and swaps them for robes and horses. , • i v ri « He takes nothing without paying fcr it, unle-ss it be that which the Ureat Spirit has given equally to his children,— tlie white and the red man. * This is the name applied, by the Indians, to Gen. Clarke, one of the leaders of tha firet party of wlateg that ever crossed the mountams. An allusion is here bad to an expression made use of in his talk to the Sioux on that occasion. _ t Silver. This phrasa ii the Sioui mode of expressing the act of wymg moMf tat *ajwrtijoi». TAH-TUNGA-SANA'S ADDRESS. 99 •* Would the Brave Bear and his people be friends to us ? We are friend iy — we are generous. We will give tobacco to the Brave Bear, that he and his people may smoke and be our friends. But the Long-knife will not here give him the lire-water. Let him come to the Long-knife's lodge, then shall he have of it a little, that he may bless the Long-knife in his heart. The Bra\ e Bear can have none now. " The Brave Bear says, his people are generous, but they are brave, — they are all soldiers. Be it so. My people are generouB,-^they are brave — they are all soldiers ! Does the Brave Bear wish for fight ? My people are ready to either smoke or fight ! The Brave Bear says, unless I give him the fire-water for his people, they will nerve tlieir arms for conflict, and take it ! WiU they ? Let them try ! The Long-knife says, let them try /" The conclusion of this reply was received witli a bad grace by those to whom it was addressed, and created great excitement among them. Seve- ral left for the village, obviously for the purpose of arming and returning with increased numbers to the meditated attack. Meanwhile our arms were put in a proper condition for resistance, and all needful arrangements made to give the assailants a warm reception should they commence upon us. This done, our commandant brought a few plugs of tobacco, and, laying them before the Brave Bear, said : " It is good that the Brave Bear and his people should smoke. Here ia tobacco, — let him take it to his warriors tliat we and they be friends ; — or would he ratlier fight?" Bull Tail (Tah-tunga-sana,) who had had hitherto remained silent, now arose and addressed his companions: "Tah-tuiiga-sana is grieved at the words of the Brave Bear. Womd my brothers fight the Long-knife, and rob him of what he has brought to us, that they may become fools by drinking the fire-water? " Who shall then bring us medicine-irons (gtms) to kill our meat ; or knives to butcher it; or blankets and beads for our squaws; or the red- earth (vermilion) to paint our faces when we arm for war ? And, who shall bring us all the otlier things so needful for us ? "The Long-knife will not do it. You rob him. No one will bring them to us. We shall be .without them ! We shall be poor indeed ! " Brothers : Why would you drink tlie fire-water, and become fools ? Would it not be better that the Long-knife no more bring it to us ? We give for it our robes and our horses ; — it does us no good. It makes us poor. We fight our own brothers, and kill those we love, because the fire- water is in us and makes our hearts bad ! The fire-water is the red man'i enemy ! "Brothers: Tah-tunga-sana is old; — will you hsten to him. He has been always the friend of the pale-face. When first the Yellow-hair (Gen. Clarke) came to the red man's lodge, Tah-tunga-sana took him by the hand. He will always take the pale- face by the hand. He loves the pale-face. The pale-face is his brother, — he is our brother ! — He brings us many good things. "Brothers : The Long- knife has spoken well. It is good that we smoke, —that we, and the Long-knife, and his people may be friends. Let us ac* §• 90 THE CHIMNEY. cept his present, aad go to oiir lodges, and there tell to our children bow kind the Long-knife is to the red man." The speech was received in silence, — no one expressing eitlier approba- tion or dissent, as the old man resumed his seat. The Brave Bear himg his head sullenly, but said nothing. The talk had evidently corae to a close. At last. Bull Tail arose, and, shalring hands with tiie commandant and each of the company, took the tobacco and left for the village. The others soon after, one by one, follow- ed his example, and we were finally rid of their unwelcome presence ;— not, however, until they had stolen an axe and several other articles, de« spite tlie strictness of our vigilance. CHAPTER VII. The Chimney.— A bet.— Spur of the Rocky Mountains.— Scott's Bluff— Rcmantie scenery.— Jliniic city.- A pyraniid.— A monument.— An elevated garden.— Moun- tain sheep.— An Eden.— Death in camp.— The wanderer's grave.— Horse Creek and gold.— Goche's hole.— Arrival at Fort Platte.— Remarks by the way.— Prairie travel.— Locality and description of the Fort.— Indian lodges.— Mgratory habits of mountain and prairie tribes. — Scenes at Fort — Drunken Indians.— Tra- gical event.— Indian funeral.— Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father. Oct. 26ih. Raising camp at daylight we resumed our way, and soon afterwards arrived opposite the " Chimney," an extraordinary natural curi osity that had continued in view and excited our admiration for some four days past. This singular formation surmounts a conical eminence which rises, isola- ted and lonely, in the open prairie, reaching a height of three hundred feet. It is composed of terrene limestone and marl, quadrangularly shaped, like the spire of .some church, six feet by ten at its base, with an altitude of more than two hundred feet, — making, together \vith the mound, an eleva- tion of five hundred feet.* A grand and imposing spectacle, truly ;— a wonderful display of the eccentricity of Nature ! How came such an immense pile so singularly situated ? What causes mited tlieir aid to throw up this lone column, so majestic in its solitude, to overlook the vast and unbroken plains that surround it ? The " Chimney " is situated about three miles to tlie left of the moun- tain trail, though it seems no more than eight hundred yards distant. Upon this question our party entertained no small diversity of opinion. Some of the less knowing \vere confident it could not exceed a half mile ; and one fellow offered to bet five dollars he could run to it in fifteen minutes. * Formerly the " Chimney " was much liigher than at present, and could be dis- tinctly seen in a clear day as far as Asli creek. The \\-ind and the rain are continu- ally reducing it ; and it is said to be full fifty feet less than it was nine years ago. Calculating from this datum, what must liave been its altitude no longer remote than s •oaple of ceuturies ! A MONUMENT. 91 The banter was promptly accepted, and the " greenhorn," doffing hii coat and hat, started in full expectation of winning the wager. B^ in •tead of fifteen, it took him forty-five minutes to reach the spot! The day after passing the " Chimney," we entered a broad defile of lofty ridges, and made camp. This locality is known as Scott'i Bluff which is, properly speaking, a wing of the Rocky Mountains. From Ash creek to this place, an almost precipitous wall of arenaceoui rock, limestone, and marl, shuts the high prairie fi-om the river bottoms As the traveller proceeds, this wall or ledge gradually increases in height and recedes from the river, sometimes to a distance of thirty or forty miles til it unites in a chain of hills, many of which are covered with eturdj pines, and others are mere heaps of naked sand or indurated earth. The ridge then continues its coiu^e until it at length becomes united with th« lateral chain of the Rocky Moxmtains, which boimds the " Plains of Lara mie " upon the southeast At Scott's Bluff these hills crowd themselves abruptly towards th« Platte, where they present a most romantic and picturesque sceneir. Our camp was in a rich opening, or valley, two miles wide, and walled in upon the right and left by perpendicular masses of earth and rock, that tower to a height of from three to eight hundred feet. In reaching it, the trail bore leftward from the river, about seven miles, through a level prairie, by which we were inducted to the vailey, without any perceptible variation of its general surface. Near the entrance, upon pur left, the spectacle was grand and imposiiiff beyond description. It seemed as if Nature, in mere sportiveness, had thought to excel the noblest works of ait, and rear up a mimic city as the grand metropolis of her empire. There stood the representations of palaces, with their domes and balus- trades ; churches, with their spires and cupolas ; and streets, with tneir gigantic dwellings, stores, work-shops, and ware-houses. And there, also, were parks, pleasure-grounds, and public squares, all so admirably defined by the agency of the winds and rains of ages, that the traveller might readily imagine liimself to have arrived within the precincts of the desert- ed city of some peopleless country, whose splendor and magnificence on more than vied with tlie far-famed Pahnyra of the desert, even in its days. To the right arose a pile of sand-rock and marl in pyramidal/ three hundred feet high, that occupied its prairie site detached from .' other eminence. Near this stood a more singular natural formation than any f iously noticed. It described a complete circle, of one thousand fe circumference, and attained an altitude of not far from four hundred fee Its sides were of great regularity, and represented masses of solid mason- work, rising abruptly till v/ithin sixty or seventy feet of tlie summit, where they accline in a blunt, cone-like manner, reducing the periphery to on« third that of its base. At this point is reposed a semi-spherical form, reg- ularly jutting with a gradual swell upon all sides — then tapering to an oval shape till near the apex, at whicii the whole mass is surmounted by a rude imitation of sculptured flame, pointing upwards to the bud, as if this W DEATH IN CAMP. ■tranffe monumeat of nature had been erected in honor of the great sooro* of light and heat! Still further to the right, upon the river bank, is another immense pile, exceeding either of the before described in altitude. It is an oblong square, and presents erect lateral walls upon three sides, leaving upon the fourth a gradual acchvity which faces the river. Its summit expands into a beautiful terrace containing an area of several acres, which at the proper season is adorned with herbs, flowers, shrubbery, and grass, like a pleasure garden upon some house-top, and commands a view of the whole countiy, lending enchantment to the neighboring scenes. Its base is about one mile long by twelve hundred yards wide, and points endwise from the river towards the valley. _ Then comes the coatinuous wall which bounds the locality upon the right. This likewise presents a level summit, varying fi-om fifteen yards to a half mile fn breadth, for a distance of ten miles, when, slowly sinking in its course, it finally becomes lost in the prairie. Covered with grass and shrubs, it is the favorite home of the mountain Bheep, where she breeds and rears her young, secure in her inaccessible fastnesses ; and ofttimes from its precipitous edge, at elevations of six or eight hundred feet above the adjacent prairie, will her head and mammoth horns be seen, peering in wonder upon tlie rare traveller, as he passes adown the valley. The interval between the two mural ridges is of unifoiin width for about ten miles, and is watered by a beautiful stream nearly the whole distance, when it inducts the traveller to the open prairie,— leaving the immense waU which bounded it upon the leftward, at* his entrance, transformed to high conical hills, covered with pines, and almost lost to view in the growing space; while that upon his right, diminishing in size, gradually disappears and unites with tlie far-spreading plain. Most of the varieties of wild fruits uidigenous to the mountains are found in this vicinity, and also numerous bands of bufialo, elk, deer, sheep, and antelope, with the grizzly bear. In the summer months the prospect is most delightful, and affords to the admiring beholder an Eden of fruits and flowers. No higher encomium could be passed upon it than by employing the homely phrase of one of our voyageurs. In speaking of the varied enchantments of its scenery at that season, he said : " I could die here, then, — certain of being not far from heaven !" Before leaving this romantic spot, feelings of gloom and melancho- ly usurped those of pleasing admiration, by the death of one of oui number. The deceased was on his way to the mountains for the recovery of his health, with a frame fearfully reduced by the ravages of that fell destroyer consiunption. For several days past he had declined rapidly, owing to the weather and the unavoidable exposure incident to our mode of travel- ling. To-day the cold was more than usually severe, and an uncomforta- ble rain and sleet commenced soon after camping. In an attempt to pass from the waggons to the fire, he staggered and fell ;— before any one of us could arrive to his assistance, he had breathed his last. Tm WANDERER'S 6RAVB, W* boried him upon the bank of the stream that wendt its course ihrovgh the valley. Darkness, with its sable pall, had enveloped the scene as we covered him from view, and left the winds and the wolves to howl his requiem, until the voice of spring shall bid the wild-flowers grow and bloom upon his grave. Tnis lovely valley had before this witnessed the death-scene of one who left his bones to bleach within its limits. His name was Scott, from whom the neighboring eminences derive their present appellation. Attracted by the enchanting beauty of the place and the great abundance of game the vicinity afforded, he wandered hither alone and made it hia temporary residence. While thus enjoying the varied sweets of solitude, he became the prey of sickness and gasped his hfe away; — and none were tiaere to watch over him, but the sun by day and the stars by night j or fan his fevered brow, save the kindly breezes ; or bemoan his hapless fate, other than the gurgling stream that sighed its passing sympathy be- side the couch of death ! There is a mournful interest and a touching melancholy associated with this simple story, that must thrill with emotion the finer feelings of our nature. The incident, which had so recently transpired, contributed to en- hance these gloomy sensations to an extent I never before experienced. 1 felt — I cannot tell how. I felt Uke giving vent to my feelings in verse. — Yet, I cannot write poetry. I made the attempt, however, and here is the result before the reader : THE WANDERER'S GRAVE. Away from friends, away from home And all the heart holds dear, A weary wand'rer laid him down,- Nor kindly aid was near. — And sickness prey'd upon his frame And told its tale of woe, While sorrow mark'd his pallid cheeks And sank his spirit low. Nor waiting friends stood round his coach A healing to impart, — Nor human voice spoke sympathy, To sooth his aching heart The stars of night his watchers were, — His fan the rude winds' breath, And while they sigh'd their hollow moans, He closed his eyes in death. Upon the prairie's vast expanse This weary wand'rer lay ; And far from friends, and far from hotOB, He breath'd his hfe away ! 91 HORSE CREEK.-COLBC A lovely valley marks the spot That claims his lowly bed ; But o'er the wand'rer's hapless fate No friendly tear was shed. No willing grave received the corae Of this poor lonely one ; — His bones, alas, were leflt to bleach And moulder 'neath the eun I The night-wolf howl'd his requiem, — The rude winds danced his dirge ; And e'er anon, in mournful chime, Sigh'd forth the mellow surge! The Spring shall teach the rising grass To twine for him a tomb ; . And, o'er the spot where he doth lie, Shall bid tlie wild flowers bloom. But, far from friends, and far from home. Ah, dismal thought, to die I Oh, let me 'mid my friends expire, And with my fathers lie. Oct. 'ilih. The day being clear and pleasant, we travelled rapidly, and in the course of the afternoon reached Horse creek. This stream is a large affluent of the Platte, heading in the Black Hills, and, tracing its way in a northeasterly direction, through a timberless country, (in many places mere barren wastes.) makes its debouchment nearly fifteen miles above Scott's Bluff. The region adjacent to its head is represented as being rich in minerals, among which is gold ; and from my limited information respecting its geo- logical character, I am inclined to accredit the rumor. The story runs thus: Six or eight years since, Du Shay, an old French hunter, while ranging in the parts above alluded to, on crossing one of the two principal forks that unite to form the main stream, observed a singular looking sometliing in the creek bed, which he picked up. It was apparently a fragment of Took, very heavy, and contained numerous yeUow specks. Having deposited it in his bullet-pouch for preservation, subsequently, in approaching a band of buffalo, its weight became so annoying he thought- lessly threw it away. The year following he visited Santa Fe, at which place his pouch was accidenta,lly emptied, and, among its contents, several bright particles, tliat had become parted from the rock, attracted the atten. tion of the Mexicans. These were carefully gathered up, and, upon due examination, proved to be virgin gold. The old man, on his retiu-n, searched diligently for the spot that afford- «1 A* treasure he had so foolishly thrown away, — ^but (not being intellect' PRAIRIE TRAVEL. uaUy one of the brightest gems of nature's casket, and feeble and chUdish withal) he was unable to find it, or even to decide upon which of the two streams it belonged. Upon one of the affluents of Horse creek, thirty or forty miles south of the Platte, is a beautiful valley, shut in by two ridges of precipitous hills, known as Goche's hole. This locality, in wildnees and picturesque beauty, claims affinity to tlio neigborhood of Scott's BlufT. Its area is broad and of several miles extent, — macessible except at two or three points. The surrounding hills are gen- erally composed of marl and earthy limestone. Towering in vertical walla to the height of many hundred feet, they present the appearance of a Btrongly fortified place. The soil is remarkably rich, well watered, and timbered, — strikingly contrasting with the nude sterility and desolation of the circumjacent country. A heavy fall of snow during the night prevented our leaving camp until the fourth day subsequent, when were again en route. Having passed the night of Nov. Istat Moram's Point, tlie next day we arrived at Fort Platte. This latter place is situated a short distance above tlie mouth of Larra- mie river, and is our point of present destination. From Horse creek to the Larramie river, the bottoms, in many places, afibrded dense groves of heavy timber — the more agreeable as we had been so long accustomed to open and v. endless prairies. The geological character of the country is nearly tlie same with that previously described — though possessed of greater humidity of soil. "The formations, noticed in the vicinity of Scott's Blufl" and Goche's hole, have merged into strata of limestone of various shades and compactness, Vv'ith occasional layers of primitive sandstone. The prairies were beautifully undulating, and covered with lusty growths of dried vegetation. The hiUs, now and then, were ornamented witli a few icattering pines and cedars, which stood like lonely sentinels to watch the progress ot changing seasons. As some of my readers may entertain the design of visiting these remote regions, or nassing beyond them to tlie more distant shores of the Pacific, it may not he deemed a digression for me to present a few hints as to the most advisable mode of travelling upon this long and wearisome journey. A caravan of waggons should malje only two camps per day. Travellers should adopt the rule to start at daylight and continue until ten o'clock, A M., — then, having halted some six hours, (if it be summer, if spring or fell, four only,) again resume their way till after sundown. Fifteen miles, upon an average, are as far as an ox team should travel per day, — mules or horses might keep on for twenty miles. Caravans ought always to lay by in rainy weather, as the wet and irrita tion consequent upon draught, gall the neck and shoulders of their ani mals and soon render them unfit for service ; — every precaution should be taken to preserve their strength and soundness, as upon them rests the sole dependence of a traveUing company. A Hioimted party ought, as a general thing, to observe the same ra]a% is LODGEC OF MOUNTAIN INDUKI. and not think of averaging over twenty-five miles per day. They might travel later ; but in such cases, they should always proportionally lengthen their noon halt. In the above maimer the entire journey from Indpendence to the Pacific may be perlbrmed without injury to animals, or the expenses attendant npon a relay. Fort Platte, being next to Fort Hall, the most important point on th« route to Oregon, calls for a brief description. This post occupies the left bank of tne North Fork of Platte river, three-fourths of a mile above the mouth :)f Larramie, in lat. 42" 12' 10" north, long. 105° 20' 13" west from Green- wich,* and stands upon the direct waggon road to Oregon, via Soutli Pass. It is situated in the immediate vicinity of the Oglallia and Brule divisions of the Sioux nation, and but h'ctle remote from the Chyennes and Arapaho tribes. Its stiiicture is a fair specimen of most of the estixblishments em- ployed in the Indian tjade. Its walls are " adobies," (s\m-baked brick,) four feet thick, by twenty high — enclosing an area of two hundred and fifty feet in length, by two hundred broad. At the northwest and south- west corners are bastions which command its approaches in all directions. Within the walls are some twelve buildings in all, consisting as follows : Office, store, warehouse, meat-house, smith's shop, carpenter's shop, kitchen, and fi\e dwellings, — so arranged as to form a yard and corel, sufficiently large for the accommodation and security of more than two hundred head of animals. The number of men usually employed about the establish- ment is some thirty, whose ciiiof duty it is to promote the interests of the trade, and otherwise act as circumstances require. The Fort is located in a level plain, fertile and interesting, bounded upoc all sides by hiUs, many of which present to view the nodding forms of pines and cedars, that bescatter thair surface, — wlxile the river bottoms, a various points, are thickly studded with proud growths of cottonwood, ash, willow, and box-elder, thus affording its needful supphes of timber and fuel. One mile south of it, upon the Larramie, is Fort John, a station of the American Fur Company. Between these two posts a strong opposition is maintained in regard to the business of the country, little to the credit of either. At the time of our arrival at the Fort, t^yo villages of Indians were en- camped near by. Their lodges, being the first I ever saw, proved objects ef great interest to me. The lodge of a mountain Indian consists of a frame work of light poles, some twenty-fi\e feet long, bound together at the small ends, and raised by Slanting tlie opposite extremities aslope, at given distances apart, so as to escribe a circle, at the base, converging to a triangular apex, for roof and Bides ; — over this is spread a covering of bufialo robes, so nicely dressed and seamed, it readily sheds rain and excludes the fierce winds to which the country is subject. A small aperture at the top, affords passage for tb* * Oka. Lt. Framont, in IMS. CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE SIOUX NATION. ^1 smoke emitted from the fire occupyng the centre ground work. The entrance is at tlie side, where a large piece of undressed buffalo skm (hung from the top and so placed as to be opened or closed, at pleasure, upon the ingress or egress of the inmate) furnishes the simple substitute for a These lodo-es (some of them containing quantities of roofage to the imountof tenor fifteen buflalo skins) are large and commodious; and, 3ven comfortable, in the severest weather; the heat from the centre fire, being refracted on striking the sloping sides, communicates an agreeable warmth to every part. . , , , w .1 i t An Indian lodge, in the summer, is admirably adapted to the pleasure ot its occupants,— by raising the lower extremeties of the envelope and securing them at a proper elevation, a free passage of air is obtained, which greatly contributes to increase the merits of the delightful shade afforded by the superstructure. , * ^r. A lodge of the largest size may easily be made to accommodate titteen persons. The interior is arranged by placing the fixtures for sleeping at the circumference of the circle, which afford seats to the inmates, and tnus a sufficient space is left vacant between them and the centre fire. This kind of dwelling is the one almost universally adopted by the mountain and prairie Indians, and is, perhaps, better suited to their con- dition and mode of life than any other that could be devised. Dependent solely upon the chase for a subsistence, the various Indian tribes inhabiting the mountains and countries adjacent can occupy no fixed residences. Contrary to the habits of more eastern nations, among whom agriculture commands attention to a greater or less extent, they are continually necessitated to rove from place to place in pursuit of game. Give to one of them a bow, arrows, knife, lodge, and runmng horse, and he is rich, happy and contented. When the erratic propensities ol Uie buffalo (upon which is his almost exclusive dependence) compel him to change his location, he has only to pull down his lodge, saddle his horse, and away. ,,. ., 1 ,. So accustomed are they to this incessant rambling, they regard it more as a pleasure than an inconvenience. I have frequently seen hundreds ot famUies moving together,— presenting to the unsophisticated beholder a novel and amusing spectacle,— witli their horses, mules, dogs, men, squaws, children, and all .the paraphernalia of savage domestic economy and the rude accoutrements of peace and war, coriTmingled indiscrimi- nately. The Sioux tribe, to whose country we have now introduced the reader, it, perhaps, the largest Indian nation upontlie continent of Nortli America, with tlie exception of the ancient Mexicans, if indeed they ma^ be called Indians. This tribe occupies a territory extending from the bt. Peters, of the Mississippi, to the Missouri, and from thence to the forks ot the Platte, and up that river to its head- waters. They are supposed I0 num- ber not far from eighty thousand men, women, and children,.and are divided into many fractional parts, each bearing its own name, yet speaking th» ■ame language and claiming a common nationality. Of thes« ' divisions are the Brules, Oglalla^, Yanktaus, Piankshiw*, 9 98 DRUNKEN INDIAHS. Mmecosias, Blackfeet, Broken-arrows, and Asscnaboins, with many oth- ers whose names have escaped my recollection. The only perceptible diflerence in language, is, in the pronuciation of words like the following, tneallo, appello and Lacoia, — those upon the Mississippi, and some in the vicini'.y of the Missouri, pronouncing tliem meaddo, appeddo, and JDo- cota. The members of this nation, so far as my observation extends, are a cowardly, treacherous, thieving set, taken as a body — and are well deserving the appellation of mean and contemptible ; though there are some hon- orable exceptions to the remark. Any effort to civilize them must necessarily prove tedious, if not alto- gether impracticable, while they adhere to their present roving habits ; — though three several missionary stations have been recently established among them, witli slight success ; viz : at St. Peters, Lac qui Parle, and Traverse des Sioux. But the Indians of those sections, being under the more direct influence of the U. S. Government, have begun to abandon their former wandering habits, and betake themselves to agricultural pur- suits. The term Siuox, as apphed to this nation, is of Franco-Canadian ori- gin— being a corruption of the word sued, and means drunk or drunken, — in allusion to their excessive fondness for liquor and predilection to inebri- acy. The name by which they ca.ll themselves, and are known among other tribes, is Lacoia, or Cul-thruats, — for such is the literal meaning of the term ; and rarely, indeed, were ever a pack of scoundrels more justly entitled to tlie appellation. The night of our arrival at Fort Platte was the signal for a grand jollifi- cation to all hands, (with two or three exceptions,) who soon got most gloriously drunk, and such an illustration of the beauties of harmony as was then perpetrated, would have rivalled Bedlam itself, or even the famous ouncil chamber beyond the Styx. YeUing, screeching, firing, shouting, fighting, swearing, drinking, and such Uke interesting performances, were kept up without intermission, — and woe to the poor fellow who looked for repose that night, — he might as well have thought of sleeping with a thousand cannon bellowing at his ears. The scoie was prolonged till near sundown the next day, and several made their egress from this beastly carousal, minus shirts and coats, — with Bwollec e^3s, bloody noses, and empty pockets, — the latter circumstance will be easily understood upon the mere mention of the fact, that hquor, in this country, is sold for four dollars per pint. The day following was ushered in by the en&ctment of another scene of comico-tragical character. The Lidians encamped in the vicinity, being extremely soUcitous to imi- tate the example of their " illustrious predecessors," soon as the first tints of morning began to paint the east, commenced their demands for Qio- water ; and, ere the sun had told an hour of his course, they were pretty well advanced in the state of " how came ye so," and seemed to exercise their musical powers in wonderful rivalry with their white brethren. Man, women, and children were seen running from lodgt to lodge witii Indian Funeral. — Pao-e loi. ^avancb •eir musical \. M«n, women, AN INDIAN FUNERAL. 101 V^^/^^»SA^N/S^^^^^»^»A^^^<^^^^^NA^* Tesflels of liquor, inviting tlieir friends and relatives to drink ; while whooping, singing, drunkenness, and trading for fresh supplies to admin- teter to the demands of intoxication, had evidently become the order of the day. Soon, individuals were noticed passing from one to another, with mouths full of the coveted fire-water, drawing the lips of favored friends in close contact, as if to kiss, and ejecting the contents of their own into the eager mouths of others, — tlms affording the delighted recipients tests of their fervent esteem in the heat and strength of the strange draught. At this stage cf the game the American Fur Company, as is charged, commenced dealing out to them, gratuitously, strong drugged liquor, for the double purpose of preventing a sale of the article by its competitor in in trade, and of creating sickness, or inciting contention among the Indians, while under the influence of sudden intoxication, — hoping thereby to induce the latter to charge its ill effects upon an opposite source, and thus, by destroying the credit of its rival, monopolize for itself the whole trade. It is hard to predict, with certainty, what would have been the result of this reckless policy, had it been continued through the day. Already its effects became apparent, and small knots of drunJ-i3f burst from the whole assemblage, men, women, and children, which was re- newed in quick succession for several hours, when finally the bewailing multitude retired to their lodges. CHAPTER VIII. Coast clear, and Trade opened. — More visitors. — Smoking out the natives. — Inci- dent illustrative of Indian character. — Expeditions for trade. — Black Hills. — Raw- hide.— An Indian and a buffalo chase. — Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. — L'eau-qui-court — Remarks. — Lost. — ^White river ; its valley, fruits, and game. — Building site. — ^The Devil's Tea-pot. — Trouble* with Indians. — Tlieft and its punishment. — Indian soldiers. — Christmas extras. — Outrageous conduct. — Ras- cality of traders.— " That Old Serpent." — Indian superstition, religious teneta and practices. — Notions upon general morality. The events of the day had for the present put an efl'ectual stop to dissi- pation among the Indians, and not long afterwards they began to pull down their loJges and remove to the neghborhood of buffiilo, for the purpose of selecting winter-quarters. The disgusting scenes connected with our arrival at the Fort had pretty much ceased on the evening of the second day, and everything, with a few exceptions, began to assume its wonted aspect * This is the interpretation of th« Indian name which tbo French have rappliai by th* word Bral^ 104 EXPEDlTiOJX TO WHITE lilV£A. The winter trade was now considered fully opened. Parties were eeni with goods from the Fort to dilTeient villages, for the purpose of barter, and aSairs began to show a business-like appearance. Some two weeks subsequently, a band of Brulcs arrived in the vicinity. They had come for a drunken spree, and soon opened a brisk trade in liquor. Our visitors crowded tlie' Fort houses in quest of articles of plunder, and became an incessant source of anno} ance to the engages. One room, in particular, was thronged almost to the exclusion of its regular occu- pants. The latter, losing all patience, at length hit upon a plan to rid themselves of the intruders. After closely covering the chimney funnel, by aid of some half rotten chips a smoke was raised ; tha doors and windows being closed to prevent its egress. In an instant the apartment became filled to suffocation, — quite too much so for the endurance of the wondering savages, who gladly wltli- drevv to gain the pure air of the exterior. On being told it was the Long- knife's medicine,* they replied : " Ugh ! Wakea sutiello ha Mena-huska tour !" (Ugh ! The Long-knife's medicine is strong .') During their stay at tiie Fort, an incident occurred which wiU ser\'e to illustrate a singular ti-ait in the character of the3e Indians. A brave, named Bello-tunga, (Big Eagle,) received a blow over tlie head from a half crazed drunken ti'ader, whicli came very near terminating in serious consequences. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, had not the whites promptly interfered, and, with much eflbit, succeeded in pacifying the em-aged savage by presenting liim a horse. At first he would admit of no compromise short of tlie offender's blood — he had been struck by the pale-face, and blood must atone for the aggTes- sion, — unless that should wipe out the disgrace, he could never again lift up his head among his people, — tliey v»'ould call him a cov/ai'd, and say tlie white man struck Bello-tunga and he dared not to resent it. The ser\'ices of his father, hereupon, were secured in behalf of tl:e offenduig party, which, after gTeat ado, finally effected an adjustment uf the difiiculty. An Indian considers it the greatest indignity to receive a blow from anj one, even from his own brother; — and, unless the affiiir is settled by t):e bestowment of a trespass offering on tlie part of the aggressor, he is almost sure to seek revenge, either tlu^ough blood or the destruction ot property. This is a more especial characteristic of the Sioux than of any other nation. In fact, tlie Snakes, Crows, Arapahos, Chyennes, and most otlier tribes arc far less nice in its observance, — though all regard the like an insult tlii! justly calls for revenge. Soon after, an expedition was detached to Fort Lancaster, on the South Fork Platte, and another to White river, an affluent of the Missouri, somf *Thi8 word, in Indian signification, means any person or thing possessed ol 'itra- ordinary or supernatural powers, bs well as any act for conciliating the favor and obtaining the assistance of the Great Spirit. Tliat medicine is the strongest which '» tb« moat efficient for its intended purposes. A PliOBLEM IN MORALmr. 10* eighty miles northwest of the main trading post. The latter party includes myself with its number. Our pxirpose was to build houses in the vicinity of White river, and thus secure the trade of severcU villages of Brulcs that had selected their winter quarters in tlie neighborhood, and were anxiously awaiting our arrival. On the last of November we were under way with tv/o carts freighted with goods and liquor, accompanied by only six whites, one negro, and an Indian. Crossing the Platte opposite the Fort, we continued oar course, west by north, over a broken and tumulous prairie, occasionally diversifiod by thick clusters of pines and furrowed by deep ravines, and abounding in diminutive valleys, whose tall, withered grass gave evidence of the rich Boil producing it. To our left the high, frowning summits of the Black Hills began to show themselves in the long distance, like dark clouds, and planted their dense pine forests upon the broken ridges whose irregular courses invaded the cheerless prairie far eastward. A ride of twenty miles brought us to Rawhide, where we passed the following night and day. '' This creek traces its course over a broad sandy bed, through a wide valley df rich clayey loam, slightly timbered and luxuriant in grasses. Towards its head, it is shut in upon botli sides by high pine hilis ; but, in passing on, these mural confines are exchanged for the prairies, and the creek finally debouches into tlie Platte. An abundance of preh' e and rushes afforded fine pasturage to our animals, and a kindly grove of dry cottonwood gave us requisite fuel for camp-fire. Before leaving, we were joined by another Indian mounted upon a dark bay horse, the noblest animal of its kind I remember to have seen among Jae mountain tribes. It had been stolen from the Snakes during the past summer, as its present owner informed us, and he seemed not a Uttle p oud af the admiration we bestowed upon it. The new comer proved Arketcheta-waka, (Medicine Soldier,) a brother of Bello-tunga, the brave referred to on a former occasion. Seating him- self by the fire, he looked dejected and melancholy, and his face bore in- dubitable evidence of a personal encounter with some one. On enquiring the cause of this, we learned that he had left his father's lodge by reason of a quarrel he had had with his eldest brother, — the latter having struck him with a fire-brand and burnt liis body in several places during a drunken spree, — he was now on his way to White river, there to await the suitable time for revenge, when he should kill his brother. We told him this would not be right ; — it was liquor that had done him the wrong, and not his brother ; — liquor was bad ! He seemed to acknowledge the triitli of our sugge.-lions, and asked " why the pale-faces brougiit tho fire-water to do the red man so much harm?" Our trader replied, " The whites want robes, and can get them for liquor when nothing else will do it " The answer evidently perplexed him, while he sat gazing silently into the fire, with his arms akimbo upon his knees, and palms supporting hia chin, as if striving to work out to his own satiofaction ♦^his strange problem in morality. IM PAINFUL TRAVELLING. The third day we resumed our course, and, after a drive of six or eigh miles, came upon a laige band of buflalo. Here, at our request, the Med icine Soldier defied his robe, slung Ills arrow-case over his naked shoulders mounted his horse bow in hand, and started for the chase. At first he rode slowly, as if reserving the speed of his charger till the proper time. The bufialo permitted him to approach within a few hundrea yards before they commenced flight. Then was a magnificent spectacle. The aJTrighted beasts flew over the ground with all the speed that extremi3 terror lent to tlieir straightened nerves, and plied tlieir nimble feet with a. velocity almost incredible — but they were no match for the noble steed the Indian bestrode. He was among them in a trice, and horse, Indian, and bufl&lo were lost in identity, as they swept over a snow-clad prairie, in one thick, black mass, like the career of a fierce tornado, tossing the loose drifts upwards in small particles, that, in their descent, pictured white clouds falling to the earth, ever and anon enshrouding the whole band from view. Now their course is turned and makes directly towards us. They pass, all foaming witli sweat — ^with lolling tongues and panting breath — but they stiU seem loath to abate from tlie energy of their wild terror. Soon the Indian and his gallant steed part from them. He has selected the choicest of the band and pursues her singly. Side by side both cow and horse keep even pace, while the ready archer pours in his arrows, — s(Ku« of them, forcing their entire way through the bleeding beast, fall loosely to the ground upon the opposite side. At length, spent by the toilsome flight, exhausted by loss of blood, and Eierced through her vitals by the practised marksman that follows her, she alts for fight. Now, she plunges with mad fury at the horse, — the well-trained steed clears the force of her charge at a bound. Again, she halts, — the blood spouts from her nostrils and mouth — she staggers. Again, she musters her expiring energies for one more desperate onset at her enemy, as if deter- mined, if die she must, not to die unavenged. Her charge proves futile as the former. A deatli-sickness comes over her. Her life is fast ebbing from within her. She reels, — she totters — she falls, — and breathes her life away upon the blood-dyed snow. A few moments' delay put us in possession of an ample supply of fresh meat, — ^the Indian reserving the robe only as his share. The cow proved a most excellent selection, and did honor to the judgment of the hunter. As we I'a veiled on, the snow, which scarcely an hour since had first ittracted our attention, became deeper and deeper, and our progress more tedious aai difficult Prom bare ground and comparatively moderate climate, we were fully inducted to the region of snow, ice, and winter. The prairie was high and undulating. To our left an immense wall of secondary rock surmounted a ridge of naked hills, that described in its course the cur\'e of a rainbow, .enclosing upon three sides a large valley facing the east, — thence, stretch- -"estward and raising higher and lugher, hastened to mingle its heads ♦This the cloud-capped summits and snows of the neighboring moun* ordinary or . obtaining the .^j coatimr of loofle snow our course soon became obstructMJ the most efficieu ■ o s > 5 C9 o "0 iSsS^ r>uO lM fOU nO'^"''' L'EAU-QUI-COURT.-REMARKS. 109 by still deepening layers, covered with a thick crust, scarcely strong enough to bear our weight, but quite sufficient to wrench and jar us at every step, and make our advance threefold tiresome. The cold was so intense, we were forced to walk to keep from freezing. Our difficulties thickened the farther we progressed. Night closed in upon us, and we could no longer distinguish our course. Yet we kept on, in hopes of reaching some creek or spring where we might await the coming day. Slowly, onward, — plunge, plunge, at every step ; — now prostrate at full length upon the hard crust, and then again staggering in resistless mimicry of drunken men. The chill winds sweeping over the di-eary expanse pierced us through at each whifF, and seemed to penetrate every nerve, and joint, and muscle, as if to transform our hearts' blood into icicles. But still it was plunge, plunge along ; onward, plunge, fall ; but yet onward ! There is no stopping place here, — 'tis push on or die ! Thus, travelling for three or four hours, not knowing whither, we came finally to the leeward of a high hill. The agreeable change produced by the absence of wind, called fortli a hearty response. " Camp, ho," was echoed upon all sides. But here was no water for ourselves or our animals. We must yet go on. Still we Ungered — loath to leave the favored spot. The Indian, who had been absent for a brief space, now came up, shout- ing: "Mine, washtasta !" (Water, very good !) " Tarkoo mine ?" asked tlie trader. (What water?) " Mine-loosa. Tunga warkpollo." (Ruiming-water. A large creek.) It proved L'eau-qui-court, tlie stream upon which we had intended to pasa the night Pushing on, a few moments brought us to its banks, in a deep valley covered with snow. A lire was then promptly built from a small quantity of wood we had the precaution to take with us from Rawhide, and all hands were soon as comfortably conditioned as circumstances would admit. A hearty supper served to appease the appetites so keenly sharpened by a toilsome journey of thirty miles, occupying from sunrise tiU ten o'clock at night. This over, each one cleared for himself a place upon the frozen ground, and, spreading down his bed, quickly forgot his cares and suffering! in the welcome embrace of sleep. L'eau-qui-court, or Rimning- water, heads in a small lake under the base of the first range of Black Hills, and, following an easternly course, empties into tlie Missouri, about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles above Council Bluffi It derives its name from the rapidity of its current, which rolls over a pebbly bed with great velocity. At this place it is narrow and deep, with steep banks, and not a stick of timber is to be found on it, above or below, for twenty miles. At ti»e lake where it heads, there is an abundance of timber ; large groves of cotton- wood are alao found at some distance below our present camp. The intermediate country, from Rawhide, is a cold and cheerless czpaiue almost ai all seasons of tlie year. From the commencement of fall to the reiy close of spring, it is subject to frost and snow; — for what caoi^ 10 110 WHITE RIVER SCENERY. it 18 hard to conjecture. Its surface, though quite elevated, is not sufficiently so to make such marked difference in climate between it and adjoining sections. The next day proved cloudy; we, however, resumed our course which led over a rough, tumulous country, covered with snow and darkened by occasional clusters of pines. Early in the morning our Indians left us and took a nearer route to the village. Soon after we became bewildered in tlie obscurity of the atmos- phere, and travelled till night unconscious whether right or wrong. Finally, coming to a deep ravine that obstructed further progress, we turned to a neighboring grove of pines, at the point of an eminence, and made camp. It was a bleak airy place, but by aid of a huge fire of dry pine we were quite comfortable, despite a lieavy fall of snow during the night With the morning our perplexities were renewed. Directly in front lay a broad and impassable ravine, beyond which a high mountain range arose to view. Should we go up or down ? After much debate we decided upon the latter, and, bearing northward during the day, struck the head of a stream which subsequently proved White river. This stream traces its way through a broad valley, enclosed upon eithei side by high pine hills. Its banks are studded with thick groves of cotton wood, elm, ash, box-elder, and willow, — witli nearly all tlie varieties of fruit-bearing shrubs and trees indigenous to the mountains. In the item of plums and cherries, it gave evidence of exuberant fecundity. The bushes, in many instances, yet bore the dried relics of their burthen, as if to tempt the beholder's taste, — wliile the tall grass and rosebuds,* every where attested the summer-verdure and beauty of the valley in which they grew. The snow that had liitherto impeded our progi-ess, now gradually became less as we advanced down the valley, and soon gave place to bare ground. Game appeared in great numbers, attracted from the adjoining hills to pass the winter in this inviting locality. A journey of two days brought us to the site selected for houses, and, consequently to a halt, for the present The place was surrounded by wild and romantic scenery. Directly in front, upon the opposite side of the creek, arose a perpendicular wall of marl and half formed sandstone, towering, stratum above stratum, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and overlooking the valley above and below, — while further on, a steep hill-side, covered with tall, straight, and almost branchless pines, burst upon the view. Rearward a gradual acclivity led to a high plateau, some two miles broad, coated with long, tall grass, wlien a ridge of abrupt pine hills in- troduced the more distant mountains, with their rugged sides and frowning summits, — and, higher up, an immense pile of earthy limestone, sur- *RosebuAs are found in great quantities in many places, throughout the mountains, during the winter, and attain a large size. They are highly esteemed' by many aa %n article of food, and have not unfrequently been the means of preserving life in casM «f ex^me hunger and lack of other eatables. A TmEF PUNISHED. Ill mounting a wing of hDls as it approached the river, presented a medley of curious and fantastic shapes, — objects alike of amusement and wonder- One of the latter, denominated the "Devil's Tea-pot," exliibited exter nally an almost perfect facsimile of that kind of vessel. It was of gigantic proportions, — being one hundred feet high, and, occupying a conspicuous position, may be seen for a distance of many mOes.' The 'Indians from a near village, immediately upon our arrival, came flocking around for the threefold purpose of begging, trading and stealing: and, from this forward, we rarely experienced an interval free from iiu .r anoyance. Prompt arrangements were here commenced for building a store room and trading house ; — but meanv/hUe, we were forced to keep strict guard both night and day. Two braves were secured to " act soldier," and assist in keeping the thieving propensities of their people in check. Yet, notwithstanding the united vigilance of all hands, the latter would frequently perpetrate their petit larcenies under our very eyes, without being detected in the act, — so adroit were they at the business. An instance of this kind happening to myself is perhaps worth relating. Previously to the erection of houses, v/e were necessitated to sleep in the open air. Wearied by the lateness of the hour, one night I spread down ray couch by the camp-fire, with the intention of retiring. The weather being very cold, I had scarcely turned to warm myself, when a backward glance revealed tlie sudden disappearance of my sleeping appendages- robes blankets and all ! Informing the trader of my mishap, and catching a glimpse of the tliief as he dodged past a knot of Indians at the further extremity of the camp, gun in hand, I started after the nimble lark ; but the thick bushes and darkness Boon shut him from view and left me in fruitless pursuit. At length, relinquishing the hope of ever regaining the stolen articles, and vexed at the impious savage, who, instead of obeying tlie Scripture in- 'unction of " take up ihy bed and u-alk," had snatched my bed and kun ! I leturned to camp. Here I was shown a robe, by the trader, that had been brought in scarcely a minute before and offered in barter for liquor ; — ^it was one of the two I had lost The bearer was now promply charged as being accessory to the theft This he stoutly denied, alleging that the robe had been given him by an- other Indian for the purpose he had offered it. Upon this tlie affair was referred to oiu- soldiers, who, after much parley- ing and no little threatening, succeeded in causing him to return the nrus- sing articles. The fellow then demanded of me a cup of liquor as pay for bringing them back. Mustering to my aid a few words of Sioux, I replied: " Mea warche yau wechacha ceicha, opata-ne ha warktash-ne coga 1 — ^I neither like bad men, nor will I pay for domg bad." Marto-nazher, (Standing Bear,) one of our soldiers, on hearing mv an- swer, arose- and addressed the crowd in an earnest and impressive mauner. He waa grieved on account of the many depredations continually commits ted by his people upon the property of tlie whites. It is wrong — very wrong, saia h^ to conduct in this manner ; — if such wickedness ia allow- 112 OTDUN SOLDIERS. ed, the whites will abandon the country. Whites do not steal from us. — Something must be done— an example must be had — the perpetrators of these outrages must be punished. "You, Schena-sarpah," he continued, throwing his piercing glance full upon the chop-fallen culprit, who hung his head for shame at being caught in a manner so little to his credit, " Aye, you Scena-sarpah do carry a bow aiid arrows ; you call yourself a brave ; and yet you steal from our friends, the pale-faces ! " Do brave men steal from their friends ? No ! Schena-sarpah should alone steal Irom his enemies, if he be a brave man and a soldier. " Who are they that steal from their friends ? Squaws and children, aa Schena-sarpah well knows. Then he is no better than they ! Why should he carry a bow ? Why go to war, or follow the chase ? Squawa and children do neither. None but brave men go to war — none but they should follow the chase. " Schena-sarpa needs no bow. Let him go to his lodge. There let him make robes and moccasins for braves, and take care of children with squaws, — for such should be his occupation, and only such should be his companions !" So saying, he approached the unresisting thief, and, taking from him his bow, arrows, and panther-skin quiver, resumed his seat. Tiien, breaking the arrows and shooting them away, one by one, among the trees, he snap- ped the bow across his knee and threw it into tlie fire. The bright flame irom the burning bov.' had barely died away, when the quiver was consign- ed to the same late. As the last fragments of the efteminate's weapons mouldered to ashes, a smile of satisfaction played upon the countenance of the Standing Bear, at the thought of having avenged the wrongs of the white man. And, truly, this was an infliction of summary punishment. The amount of property destroyed exceeded the value of a horse, and, in the estimation of an Indian, constitutes a man's chief wealth. The offtnder was thus not only lett disarmed by the operation, but made poor, and reduced to a level with the squaws and children to whom he was set apart. He be- moaned his loss most piteously, and started for his lodge, bellowing like a motlierless calf. Another instance of theft occurred soon after, almost as remarkable. A robe was stolen from ofT one of our party, while he was asleep, and barter- ed for whiskey, without his knowing it J Our Indian soldiers were of great service in conducting the trade. If any difficulty occurred, they were always at hand to assist in its adjustment, and preserve order and quiet so far as lay in their power. If any visitor became troublesome, they at once ordered liim to his lodge, and enforced their commands in case of resistance. Every trader is necessitated to employ one or more braves to assist him in his business at the villages. An Indian considers it a great honor thus to receive the confidence of a white man and " act soldier " for him, as he denominates it. Some of them have not unfrequently gone so far as to kill those of tlieir people who proved guilty of misusing the traders by whou *iiey were employed. OUTRAGEOUS CONDUCT. lU They exercise a kind of supervisory office in the management of affairs which could not well be dipensed with, — and very often have the lives of traders been preserved by the judgment and discretion of these men. Dec. 25th. Christmas finds us in our new residence, which, with llie ex- ception of a chimney, is now completed. This great annual festival is observed with all the exhilarating hilarity and good cheer that circumstances will allow. Several little extras for the occasion have been procured from the Indians, which prove quite whole- some and pleasant-tasted. One of tiiese, called ivashena, consists of dried meat pulverized and mixed with marrow ; another is a preparation of cherries, preserved when first picked by pounding and sun-drying them, (they are served by mixing them with bouillie, or the liquor of fresh-boiled meat, thus giving to it an agreeable winish taste ;) a third is marrow-fat, an article in many respects superior to butter ; and, lastly, we obtained a kind of flour made from the pomme blanc, (white apple,) answering very well as a substitute for that of grain. The above assortment, with a small supply of sugar and coffee, as well as several other dainties variously prepared, affords an excellent dinner, — and, though different in kind, by no means inferior in quality to tlie generalitj of dinners for which the day is noted in more civilized communities. The day following our turbulent neighbors were augmented in num. ber by the accession of another village of Brules, and Marto-cogershne, of whom I have spoken upon a former occasion, became with his family our constant annoyance. Visiting us at one time, squaws and all — as was his daily custom — to beg liquor, (which, some way or other, he always obtained,) the brother of our tormentor demanded a quantity of that article to take with him to his lodge. This, after many sharp words, was offered; but, having no vessel for its conveyance, he extended his demands to a kettle, — which, of course, was refused ; whereupon he threatened vengeance unless both were forth- coming upon the mocosco,* (prairie,) and required still farther the gift of a pair of moccasins. Our trader replied, "The liquor is for you, and here are the moccasins, (pulling off his own and passing them to him,) but the kettle you cannot have." The afiair thus ended for the present, and the modest beggar retired tc his lodge. The next morning, however, two of our horses were found pierced with arrows, and so badly, that they died soon after. At another time, Marto-cogershne became so enraged at being refused a whole keg of liquor " on the prairie," he rushed upon the trader with hia butcher-knife to kill him. What would have been tiie result, it is hard to tell, lad I not stayed the descending weapon by seizing the fellow's arm. Here our soldiers interfered and [)iit him out of the house, — closing the door upon him. The exasperated savage then commenced shooting upon us through the door ; — two Indian boys passing in tlie interval also furnish- *ThiB expreasion implies the bestowraerit of anylldug a« a free gift. U is also U8e4 to doDule a randoia way uf speukiag with regard tu trutli. 10 • 114 INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. ed marks for his gun, and not long subsequently a mule and an ox belong- ing to us fell to appease his insulted dignity. However, tlie chef d'outre of his rascality was exhibited in stealing our whole cavallard,* consisting of ten head of horses and mules, which he drove into the mountains. We were compelled to give a quantity of liquor and ammunition, two blankets, and several other articles before we could eecure their return. From the movement of things, he was evidently instigated by the Ameri- can Fur Company traders to do us all tlie nuscliief in his power. Certain it is, he was their regular "soldier," and received from them numerous presents in consideration of his gooa cunuuct. The employees of this company are frequently guilty of such disgrace- ful conduct. In connection with this conclusion I inight cite instance upon instance, ai:d string out a volume of proof, were it necessary. Soon after Christmas we commericed erecting our chimney. The ma- terials for it were procured from an adjoining bank. While engaged in quarrying thern, tlie operator came to a cre\ice iViled with a strange fleshy substance, coiled together like tlifi folds of a huge rope. "Hallo !" jried he, with astonishm-ent, "here's the Devil, himself!" The extraordinary announcement brought all hands to the spot to get a peep at " Old Nick," and the Indians, also, witnessing the imusual commo- tion, came hurrying up to learn its cause. The result proved, that, if not the Devil, it was his great prototype, — it was that " Old Serpent," with all his progeny. By means of a stick, thirty-six large snakes were exposed to view,— some of them six feet in length. They were in a torpid state, the result of the severe cold of v/iriter. Having drawn them out, one by one, it was ];ropoKed to treat them to a warm bath. Accordingly, after placing them in a hole for the purpose, a keetle of scalding water was thrown upon them. The vivifying eft'ects of this unwonted application restored them to a sudden animation, when, wriggling and twisting for a few moments in all the contortions of agony, they at last tacitly curled up and expired. The Indians v.'ere much shocked on seeing this, and expressed their astonishment at our reckless presumption by their deeply accented " tula," — turning away from the spot with evident emotions of terror. On inquiring the cause, I learned in answer, that the various Indian tribes in the vicinity of the mountains are accustomed to regard the snake with a kind of superstitious veneration, and consider the act of killing it a sure harbinger of calamity. In the observance of this singular nation, they are scrupulously exact; — bat, in despite of repeated inquriea, I have been unable to obtain the reasons upon which tlie whim is based. These tribes cherish many religious tenets, rites, and customs, — some general and others peculiar only to individuals, • This is a mountain phrase of Spanish origin, (cave lardo,) and means a buid Oi koms 01 mulea THEOLOGICAL NOTIONS. 115 An Indian will never pronounce the name of the Bisf Medicine, or Great Spirit, other than in a reverential manner, nor upon trival occasions. This being is considered the Great Superintendent of all things, whose power sustains the universe, — causing day and night with the varying Beasons, — making the grass to grow, tlie water to run, and tlie rains to fall, for the good of man and beast. Some imagine He lives in the sun ; others, in the air ; others, in the ground ; and others in the nnmensity of His works The animal or thing possessed of wonderful or extraordinary powers, Buch as their ignorance ascribes to be the attributes of the Supreme Being, they look upon as endowed with a greater or less share of His presence, and venerate it accordingly. Thus, the sun, fire, lightning, thunder, fountains of peculiar medicinal qualities, extraordinaiy locaUties, and various other things are alike objects of religious regard. Although their theological sentiments are generally the .same, the man- ner of showing their respect for this Overruling Providence differs with different tribes, families, and even persons. For instance, — some tribes shave their heads in token of their submission to Him. Others mark themselves for His own by some peculiar manner of cutting their ears for the reception of ornaments ; — while others burn their thighs, tattoo their breasts, scar their arms, or flatten the heads of infants, for a like purpose. The instrument, with which such ceremonies are performed, is invariabl thrown away. In case of cutting the ears of an infant, the gift bestowed upon the operator is regarded as indicative of its success daring life ; — parents have been known to give as high as ten horses on like occasions. Some make indelible marks of a blue color upon their chins and fore- heads,— or the figures of lizards, snakes, arrows, or other objects upon their arms. Some show their reverence in the peculiar manner of receivir g the pipe and passing it to another; — others by certain ceremonies before smoking, — thus, pointing the pipe-stem to the zenith, then tov/ards the ground, then horizontally upon either side, as if saying, " Oh thou, whose habitation is immensity, accept this as the willing tribute of homage from thy child." They will never allow a bone of any kind to be broken within their lodges, and express great consternation and alarm at such an occurrence. Some will not permit a stick of wood to l)e struck with a knife or other edged tool while burning, and others exhibit their devotion by some pe- culiarity in the structure of their lodges, or the mode of placing their medicine-bags, the length and shape of their arrows, their fashion of hair- dressing, and various minutias of like character. Others again will never eat unless they bestov/ the first moutliful as an offering to the prairie, — believing that, as the prairie affbids water, grass, and game, for the good of tiie red man, it is the fullest cmbodyment of the Essence of Good ; therefore, in the observance of this practice, they not only acknowledge their faith in the existence of the Great Spirit, but eet apart the first of their substance as test of their piety. Their ideas of the existence of a principle, or being, wno is the author and prompter of evil, are crude and indefinite. They are ready to acknowledge its reality, but seem to consider its pep ll6 DANGERS OF THE LIQUOR TlADK son more manifest in man himself than any other creature or thing. Their enemies they esteem as tlie more special incarnation of this prin- ciple, and next to them they regard a v\ orthless, mean, and cowardly indi- vidual of tlieir own people. They also look upon creatures of an uijuiioua and hurtful nature, as the greater or less impersonation of evil. Their notions of right and wrong are equally simple. It is right to be brave, to do good to friends, to relieve the needy, to feed the hungry, and to worship the Great Spirit, — ^these are acts of general morality. There are various other duties taught by their code relative to intercourse v/ith each other, — to children and parents, husbands and wives deference to age, chastity etc., the performance of which is essential to virtue. The line of demarkation between virtue and vice is yet more simple and tomprehensive ; — every thing derelict of right is wrong. I shall recur to several points, connected with the foregoing subjects, in anotlier place. CHAPTER IX. Dangers connected with the liquor trade. — Difficulty with Bull Eagle. — Scenes of ..Jbodshed and horror.— Cheating in the fur trade.— How the red man becomes tutored in \'ice. — A cliief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. — Indian mode of courtship and marriage.— Squaws an article of traffic. — Divorce. — Pluraliiy oi wives. The difficulty and danger, not to say crime and bloodshed, connected with the illicit trade in alcohol, as conducted among our western Indians, is great and imminent. To illustrate this point, I need only to place before the reader a summary of facts which occurred, many of them under my own observation, during the winter of 1 842. Soon after our arrival at White river a man was sent to a neighboring village witli a keg of diluted alcohol, for the purpose of barter. The Indians, feeling more disposed to drink than pay for it, demanded the keg as a gift " on the prairie." This was refused. They threatened — a fight ensued, (the soldiers and trader defending the keg and the Indians trying lo take it.) Weapons were used, and the result was, both soldiers and trader were beaten off, — the latter, after being dragged through the lodge- fire three or four times, narrowly escaped with his life. A party of Indians under the excitement of strong drink, attacked ard took a trading house of the American Fur Company, near by, — robbing ii of both liquor and goods. Two parties in the Fur Company's employ, from different posts, met at a neighboring village, — one having goods and the other alcohol. The Indians, as usual, got drunk, and commenced a fight among themselves ; — because the goods-trader happened to be in the lodge of one of the weaker party, they attacked him. He was compelled to flee, and barely escaped with his hfe through the friendly interference of the squaws. His goods .^»»,. THE vcv/ YORK PUBLIC LIBKAK^' >\rl ASTOR. LENOX BULL Eagle drinking the Fire-Water. •— Page 119. SCENES OF BLOODSHED AND HORROR. 119 wcie all stolen; — while one of the Indians who defended him wasbrntallj •nurdered, and several others wounded. Not long aftenvards, our trader was shot at, three or four times, while •jngaged in this dangerous traffic, and one of his soldiers severely wounded. About the same time, the trader of another company received a deep stab, while dealing out the vile trash, and would have been killed but for the energetic efibrts of his soldiers. Previoiif^iy to the above, the Indians seized upon a trader and compelled him to stand over a hot fire until he was nearly roasted alive, — meanwhile, helping themselves to his stock in hand. Soon after, two warriors came to trade for a blanket at our post, — one of whom was drunk. While being waited upon, the latter drew his knife and was in the very act of stabbing the unsuspecting clerk, as I caught hi.^ wrist and arrested the blow. At another time, as our trader was standing surrounded by us all, he was shotat by a drunken Indian, who, by the merest accident, missed his object. Again, one night a party of drunken Indians undertook to fire the house in order to consume us alive, but were providentially prevented, owing to its being constructed of green pine logs. The most dangerous time I experienced during the winter was near the close of it. An Indian employed as our soldier, became crazed upon the drugged liquor of the American Fur Company, and made his appearance before us in a high .state of excitemcn'. This lellow had been denominated by his people the Bull Eagle, (Tahtunga-mobclln.) and was a chief, — highly esteemed as a medicine-man, and regarded as the greatest brave in the Sioux nation. He was a tall, well-made, noble-looking person — and, — such eyes ! I never saw the like planted beneath the brows of any other mortal. Thoy glared like lightning, and, as they fell upon the individual to whom directed, seemed to penetrate the very soul and read the embryo thoughts of his heart. Through the misrepresentations of those in the interest of the Fnr Com- pany, he fancied himself misused by our trader, and came determined on re- venge. Arms in hand and stripped for the contest, accompanied by his wife and two or three friends, he confronted us, — his strange appearance told for what. In the fury of passion his every look gave evidence of the raging demon within. Here, lest he should be misunderstood, he premised by a full statement of his grievances. They were many, but the chief of them was, that oir trader bad employed another to "act soldier" in his stead, Avhile he was too drunk to perform the duties of that ajtpointment. "I have been dressed* as a soldier," said he, " to be laughed at, and now Peazeezeef must die I" The room was full of Indians, and one of them, an old man, exclaimed . " When I'eazeezee dies, let me go under,]; — I must live no longer!" •Previously, he had been presented with a citizen's dress to s«cure him forih* company'fi interest. t Yellow-hair. Ttie Indian name for (jur trader. t This term implies deatli, or the act of dyins;. 120 EFFECTS OF DRUNKENNESS. " Is this your lovo for the pale-face ?" returned the infuriated chieftain. " Then die you first !" Upon this, seizing the defenceless old man, he drew his knife and made a heart-thrust. The intended victim, however, grasped the descending blade in his bare hand and arrested its course — but Ids fingers were nearly severed in so doing. Here the wife of Bull Eagle rushed up to her husband and seized him by botli arms, while others interfered, and the scene of conflict was removed from the apartment to the space in front. Now was a general fight. The women and children, crying for terror, ran about in the utmost confusion and dismay, — while raving combatants yeiled and whooped, as knives, clubs, and tomahawks were busily dealing WDunds and scattering blood. Soon after, the parties retired to their village, and the melee ended with 01^ six wounded. In a brief interval the Bull Eagle again returned, accompanied by his wife, — the latter earnestly endeavoring to dissuade him from his purpose. A shot was his first salute, on entering the door, which a timely thrust from tlie squaw averted from its object. The kind-hearted creature then grasped the bow. Relinquishing it in her hands, the madman made a pass at the trader with his tomahawk, — this blow was dodged, and the heroine, rushing between the two, prevented its repetition. Dropping his tomahawk, he then fell upon the object of his hatred, butcher-knife in hand. But here he found himself in the firm grasp of several friendly Indians, by whom he was borne from the room. This state of afliairs was the signal for another engagement between Bull Eagle, at the head of his partizans, aud the friends of the whites, — more desperate and bloody than the former. With great difficulty we re- tained our arms from the forcible grasp of the contending factions. This, to us, was a moment fraught with extreme peril — not kno\ving friend from foe, and instantly apprehensive of the knives and arrows of the avengeful throng. It was, indeed, a moment when the agony of suspense quivered with thrilling intensity upon every nerve, and vibrated in every sinew. To fight, would have been a relief. But, whom should we fight ? It might have been our best friends — for who could discriminate ? The deatli of one connected with eitiier party, at our hands, would have proved the signal for our instant slaughter. Both would have united to exterminate us, — and, beset as we were, upon all sides, prudence dictated a strict nutrahty. Sometimes fifteen or twenty would be struggling for our arms at once,— d strong temptation, as the reader may rest assured, for us to use them in self-defence. Meanwhile the conflict continued with unabated fury. Several attempts were made upon the life of Bull Eagle, but without success. Two were tilled and others wounded, when a final stop was put to the further elFusion ii blood by the withdrawal of the chieftan to his lodge. In about an hour subsequent, he returned for the second time, — ^but reason had now resumed her sway, and he came to apologize for his bad :onducf- Calling our trader his " very good, his best friend," he cried for jrief that he had attempted to kiU him. He averred that Uquor had made lim a./ool, and said he should never cease to regret the great wicked- ess h« bad thought of doing to his " best friend." Ever after this afiair CHEATINO. 121 be remained our steadfast friend, and presented our trader with six super fine robes, in evidence of the sincerity of his repentance. The foregoing results of this infamous traffic, are only a few of the many instances of like nature I might cite, in proof of its imminent darjger to those engaged in it^ prosecution; — but this is not the darkest part of the picture. There are yet scenes in reserve, more bloody and dreadful than those above recited, though not, perhaps, quite as perilous to the whites tliemselves. They all occurred in the winter of 1842, during the brief period of two mouth?, and resulted immediately from the sale of liquor. I shall not enter into details, but content myself by laying before the reader a mere synopsis of facts. In November, the American Fur Company, from Fort John, sent a quantity o! their drugged hquor to an Indian village, on Chugwater, as a gift, for the purpose of preventing the sale of that article by tlieir competi-. tors in trade. The consequence was, the poor creatures all got drunk, and a fight ensued, which ended in the death of two head chiefs. Bull Bear and Yellow Lodge, and six of their friends, — besides the wounding of fourteen others, who took part in tlie affi-ay. Soon after, an affair occurred from the same cause, resulting in the death of three. Aboat the same time, another of like nature took place in the Chyenne village, and three more were killed. Several were also killed, in the interval, in the vicinity of the Chyenne and Missouri rivers, by their friends and companions, while under the madden» ing influence of intoxicating drink, — tlie precise number is not known. The very last trade at the close of the season, produced its usual deeds of bloodshed and murder. Two Indians were killed, and the person who sold to them the vile article narrowly escaped with his Ufe. I might go on still further with the sickening sketch ; but, as enough has already been said to shock the sensibilities of the reader, in endeavoring to atTord him some idea of the enormities and untold horrors coimected with tliis crimmal traffic, I must forbear. The liquor used in this business, is generally third or fourth proof whiskey, which, after being diluted by a mixture of three parts water, is sold to the Indians at the exorbitant rate of three cups per robe, — tlie cups usually holding about three gills each. But, notwithstanding the above unconscionable price, a large share of the profits residl from the ingenious roguery of those conducting the trade. Sometimes the measuring-cup is not more than half full ; — tlien, again the act of measuring is little other than mere feint, (the purchaser receiv ing not one fourtli the quantity paid for.) When he becomes so intoxicated as to be unable to distinguish tlie difle^ ence between water and hquor, (a thing not rare,) the former is passed off upon him as the genuine article. Another mode of cheating is, by holding the cup m such a manner tliat the two front fingers occupy a place upon the inside, and thus save to the trader nearly a gill at each filling. Some have two cups, (one of tiie usual size, and the other Ies«,) wbicJi 11 122 A CHIEF:S daughter. are eo exchanged as to induce ttie purchaser to believe he is obtaining a third more than he actually receives ; and others, yet more cunning, fill the measure half full of tallow and deal out the liquor from ofF it, — the witless dupe, not thinking to examine the bottom, supposes he receives the requ\ site quantity. No wonder the Indian, with such examples before him, learns to hate the white man. and despise and abhor his boasted civilization. No wonder he locks with an eye of suspicion, aUke upon liis religion and his learning, and revolts at the thought of either, as tlie ingenious devices of scientific roguery. He is taught all the white man's vices before he learns any of his virtues. The emissaries of Satan, by their untiring eftbits, effectually Btop his ears, blind his eyes, and harden his heart, ere yet the heralds of the Gospel set foot upon his soil, to tell him of the blessings of Christianity, and the way to happiness and to heaven. If the Indian is bad, it is because the white man has made him so. Un- contaminated by intercourse with the ofiscourings of civilization, who come to cheat and despoil hitn of his property, and deprive him of his comforts, you find him quite a different being. You find him brave, generous, and hospitable, as well as possessed of many exemplary moral qualities. If he is a savage, he might, in many respects, prove a safe and worthy teacher to those who pride themselves upon a more enlightened e'ducation. He has a heart uistinctive of more genuine good feeling than his white neighbor—a .soul of more firm integrity— a spirit of more unyielding inde- pendence. Place the white man in his conf'ution, divested of all the re- straints of law, and unacquainted with the learning and arts of civilized life— surrounded by all the associations of the savage state— and the In- dian, by comparison, will then exliibit, in a more striking light, that innate Buperiority he in reality possesses. No : The Indian should not be despised. He holds weighty claims upon our pity, our compassion, and our respect,— but never should he be despised. Old Bull Tail, of whom I had occasion to speak in a fomier chapter having forgotten the wholesome sentiments he advanced at the time refer- red to, took it into his head to have a spree. But, as be was not possessed of the means to obtain the wherewith, he adopted a somewhat novel sub- stitute. , •! r 1 He had an only daughter, — and she was nandsome — the pnde of her family and the boast of her village. She was lovely, and all the high qual- ities of a princess were exhibited in her deportment. But, Bull Tail miis drink ; why not give his daughter to the Yellow-hair and receive from liira a keg of liquor as a marriage present ? Tills thought was acted out, and one mornmg the old chief came to us, followed by his daughter, who, aware of her father's designs, gave vent to her grief in a flood of tears. As he entered the door, our trader addressed him : Trader. Bull Tail is welcome to the lodge of the Long-knife ;— but, why is hi'p daughter, the pride of his heart, bathed in tears ? It pains me ^t one so beautiful should weep. mDIAN MODE OF COURTSHIP. 123 BuU TaU, Chintzille is a foolish girl. Her father loves her, and tber»> fore she cries. Trader. The contiary should prove a greater cause for grief. Bull Tail. The Yellow-hair speaks well, and truth only falls from his lips. Trader. How, tlien, can she sorrow ? Bid her speak and tell me, that I may whisper in her c;; r words of comfort BuU TaU. Nay, paij-lace ; but I will tell thee. Bull Tail loves his daughter much — very much ; he loves the Yellow-hair much ! — he loves them both, very much. The Great Spirit has put the thought into his mind that both might be alike his children ; then would his heart leap for joy at , the twice-spoken name of father ! Trader. What do I hear ? I know not the meaning of thy words. Bull Tail. Sure, pale-f\ice, thou art slow to understand ! Bull Tail would give his daughter to the Yellow-hair, — for who like him is so worthy to take her to Ms lodge 1 Bull Tail has for a long time called the pale- face liis brother, and now he would claim the Yellow-hair as his son. Loves he not Chintzille ? Trader. Were I to deny my joy at tlie words of Bull Tail, my tongue would he ! The Yellow-hair has no wife, and who, like the lovely Chintz- ille, is so worthy that he should take her to his bosom ? How could he ever show his gratitude to her noble father ! Bull Tail. The gift is free, and Bull Tail will be honored in its accept- ance,— his friends wUl all be glad with him. But, that they may bless tiie Yellow-hair, let him fill up the hollow-wood * with fire-water, and Bull Tail will take it to his lodge ; — then the maiden shall be thine. Trader. But, Chintzille grieves, — she loves not the Yellow-hair! Bull Tail. Chintzille is foolish. Let the Yellow-hair measure the fire-water and she shall be thine ! Trader. Nay, but the Yellow-hair may not do this. Chintzille should never be the wife of him she loves not ! The old man contniued to plead for some time, in order to bring to a suc- cessful issue the negotiation by which he hoped to "wet his whistle" and gain a son-in-law, — but all to no purpose. Our trader could not be persua- ded to form an alliance so entangling upon any such terms, and the chief- tain left with all the lineaments of disappointment and chagrin depicted upon his countenance. The mode of marriage prevalent among the mountain and prairie tribes would seem rather strange and somewhat unfair to the better informed of clvihzed communities. The lady has little to say or do in the business. When an Indian tabes It into his head to get manied and meets with the squaw suiting his fancy, he wastes no time in useless courtship, but hastens to her fatlier and de- mands of him to ioiow how much he loves his daughter and what gift of horses will make his heart rejoice in a son-in-law ? The father, after consulting with his daughter and her mother, states th* •Keg. 124 POLTGAMT. terms. If these prove agreeable to the suitor, he immediately accepts them, and the twain " become one flesh " without further ceremony. In case tlie woman has no father, her eldest brother fills his place, — and if she have neither father nor brother, her next nearest relative assumes the responsibility of bestowing her in marriage. If she be the eldest daughter, and has unmarried sisters, the bridegroom becomes equally entitled to them, and is looked upon as their common hus- band. The first year succeeding this new relation, the bride's family consider all the horses and other valuables of the new-made husband as their cwn; the second year he is permitted to retain his personal property for the use of himself and wife ; — but the third year he enjoys an equal right with his relatives to everything in their possession. The decision of parents in the bestowment of a daughter in marriage is generally controlled by the largeness of tlie amount oifered ; tluis showing that civilized life is not the only condition in which individuals are some- times governed by sordid motives in pronouncing upon questions of such vital impoilance to the welfare of others. The female is the only party upon whom the marriage contract is con- sidered binding. Tlie man may sunder it at any time suiting nis convenience or caprice. He has the power, even, to dispose of his wife to another, or, at a mere word, to absolve himself from all obligation to her. In case of tlie latter, the discarded one returns to her father's lodge, — ready again to test the re- alities of this uncertain relationship, whenever an opportunity presents it- »elf meeting with the approval of tliose who assume to make barter of her aflfections and person. A woman, to be happy in this state of society, should never indulge in that i'ancied passion, pictured in such glowing colors by crack-brained poets and novel-writei's, called love ; — or, if she has the assurance to do otherwise, it should be of that more versatile and accommodating order, so often exhibited in more refined circles, which may be reclaimed and trans- ferred as interest or circumstances suggest. Her affections are not at her own disposal, and, to render life tolerable, she must learn to love only as •he is loved, and to love herself above all others. Next to horses, women constitute an Indian's chief wealth. This cir- cumstance not unfrequently residts in one individual appropriating to himself six or eight. The squaw is compelled to dress robes and skins, make moccasins, cure and take care of meat, attend to the horses, procure fire-v/ood, and perform sundry other little drudgeries that an Indian will not do. Through her he becomes possessed of the means of procuring from tlie whites such articles as his necessities or fancy may require. A plurahty of wives with him, therefore, is more a matter of economy than other wia«. 186 CHAPTER X. Tahtunga-goniska. — High gaming. — ^Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange Btoiy.— The Death Song, a tale of love. — Medicine-men. — Extraordinary perfonn&noe rf Tahtunga-mobellu. — Wonderful feats of jugglery. Among our daily visitors was Tahtunga-egoniska, a head chief of tlie Brule village. Years had bleached his locks with their taming frosts and taught him self-government. Well disposed as a man, he never became a participant in those disgusting scenes of intoxication tliat almost continually transpir- ed around us. He was a mere looker on — a moralizer ; and, as he witness- ed the blamewoitliy conduct of his people, an ill-suppressed sigh was fre- quently audible, and the inward workings of regret were plainly defined upon his countenance. Melancholy too had left her traces upon him, and, as he sat day by day in gloomy silence, he seemed the very impersonation of griet Whenever the throng dispersed for a few moments, he would improve die opportunity for conversation with us ; for in the benevolence of his heart he loved the whites, and was greatly pained at the injuries and injustice it was so often their lot to endure. But he had a story of his own to tell ; it was a tale of affliction — a stab at the best feelings of a father's heart ! And, by whom ? By the very whites he loved ! Aye, by the very men whose business it was to degrade his people and ruin them by the contaminating etFects of an unhallowed intercourse ! Six months had scarcely yet passed since the old chief had been called to mourn his youthful hope, and the pride and joy of his declining years — his first-bom son ! And that son had fallen by the hand of the wliite man ! Still, the sorrow-stricken father harbored no thought of revenge ; he sought notiiing for himself save the locks of that son, tliat he might hang them within his lodge, and gaze upon then-, and weep ! His simple tale was so touching in its nature it served to enlist the deep eympathies of our hearts. We began to regard him with much deference, and felt quite at home in his company. He would frequently entertain us with his anecdotes as occasions suggested, and at such times lie invaria- bly proved both agreeable and communicative. The history of his own life, too, was far from uninteresting. He wa« the only one of the Brule chiefs, then living, who had signed tlie first treaty witli the wliites, since which he had ever observed its stipula'.iona with scrupulous exactness, and still carefully retained a silver medal be- Btowed upon him by the Government agent at that time. Some of his stories were garbed with a sti-ange romance, and tboneh they may appear foreign to truth in many respects, I cannot resist u« temptation of presenting a few of them to the reader. 11* 128 HIGH GAMma. One dav, several Indians had betted largely upon a "game of hand;"* this called forth from the old man the following story : " When a young man I delighted in war, and seldom did a party of om people visit the enemy that included me not with its number. These scars tell where I stood when arrows flew thick — hastening to spill the blood of the brave. " Rarely did we return empty-handed from the foeman's land — without horses to ride or scalps to dance. Yet, at times we came back like fools, and were ashamed to appear at the soldiers' leasts. "One of these times 1 well recollect, and I will tell of it to my white children, that they also may remember it. " We were proceeding against the Crows, and, like experienced warri- ors, had sent our spy in advance to look for the enemy. Hurrying on, in momentary expectation of a conflict, the stout hearts of our braves were appalled by his return without robe or arm.>, and scalpless— and with a face suflused in blood. " This was his story : The enemy, aware of our approach, were awaiting us in great numbers. Encountering their scouts, he had been robbed and scalped, and left f jr dead. In this situation he lay till darkness shut down upon the mountam and the night-breeze gave him strength to meet us and advise our speedy return. " Believing the strange tale, we hastened to revisit oiu- lodges, and be laughed at. " Three moons sped, and we again penetrated the land of the foemeni The scalpless warrior, far in advance of the main party, once more dis- charged tlie duties of a spy. " This time a whoop of triumph aimounced the result of his mission, as he made his appearance with the scalps of two, waving from his spear. " He tarried not to relate his adventure, but urged us instantly onward. Following him, we were led to the enemy ; — we fought and were victo- rious. " Among the slain was one whose scalp was wanting. Who has dona this ? asked the wondering braves. But none answered. Our spy, smi- ling, at length broke silence : "'Behind yon hill,' said he, ' a fountain chants melody fit for warriors' ears, — let's to it, that we may drink.' "Following his direction, he led to a silvery spring overhung by crags and shaded by cottonwoods. " ' Drink, warriors,' he exclaimed ; when, withdrawing abruptly, he soon returned, and with the arms and robe which were his own in other days. ' Warriors,' resumed the spy : ' you wondered at my mishap, and lamented my hard lot when last we visited the Crowman's country ; — ^you wondered at tlie condition of one among the recent slain, and asked for a reason ; — and, doubtless, you wonder still more that I now stand before * This is a conunon game with the mountain Indians. It is commenced by one of tha players who ericloseti a gravel-stone or a bullet in the curve of lus two hands by pla- cing tlie palnis together, then, after sundry tosts and evolutions, suddenly uartinji them. If the opposing party is slirevvd enough to guess in which hand the e. ne ii retained, he wins ; if not not, he loses. Ijaig^e amounts are often wagered upoe th« rosiilt of this play. A STRANGE STORY. 127 you bearing the store of which I was deprived ! — and fain you would know in what manner I obtained the hair of tvvo. "'Three times has the night-queen turned her full face to smile upon the prowess of Lacota arms, since at tMs very spot I met an enemy. We rushed towards each other for the attack. 'Twas then he cried : " ' Are we not both braves ? wJiy should we fight ? When our people meet in tlie fray, then may we join arms, — till then, a truce.' " ' To this I replied, " ' Says Crowman peace ? — then, be there peace.' "'Thus said, we shook hands and sat down by the fountain. " ' Willing to amuse the foe, I gathered a pebble and proposed a game of hand. The challenge was accepted, and we played, — first, arrow against arrow, tlien bow against bow, robe against robe, and scalp against scalp. ♦"I was unsuccessful and lost all, — arrow, bow, robe, and scalp. I gave up all, but with the extorted promise that we should tiere meet again for another trial of skill. •♦ ' True to the word, we did meet again. We played, and this time, the Good Spirit showed me kindness. " ' Winning back arrows, bow and robe, I staked them all against the lost scalp. The game was a close one ; but again the Good Spirit favored me, and I won. " ' Crewman,' said I, ' scalp against scalp.' " ' The banter was accepted, and the play continued. He lost, and I, with my winnings, arose to leave. " ' Warrior,' exclaimed the luckless ' player, ' meet me in tlie fight, that we may try the game of arms.' " ' Thy words please me,' I answered. ' Will the Crowman name the place ?' " ' A valley lies beyond this hill, — there my people await their enemies, and tliere let me hope to see you with them.' " ' To that place I led you. We fought and conquered. My opponent at play was among the slain. Need I teU you who took liis scalp ?' " The old man seemed to take pleasure in acquainting us with the man- ners and customs of his people, and was ever ready to assign a reason for any of tliem, whenever Buch existed. He repeated to us the names of all the streams, mountains, and prominent localities of the country, and explained the causes of their several christenings. Some thirty miles to the westward of us, flowed a large creek, called by the Indians, " Weur-sena Warkpollo," or Old Woman's creek. This Btream is an affluent of the Chyenne river, and takes its rise at the base of a mountain bearing the same name. Tlie mountain is an object of great veneration witli the Sioux, who rarely enter into its neighborhood without bestowing upon it a present of meat. The old man entertained us with the following explanation of a custom so singular : " My grandfather told me a tale he had received from the old men before »um, and it is a strange one. " Many ages past bring us back to the time when the La^tas lived ia ft country far above the sun of winter.* *TlMDortlL 128 A STRANGE STORY. " Here, then, the Shoshone reared his white lodge, and scoured the prairies in pursuit of game ; while, as yet, the whole country abounded with lakes and ponds of water, and only the highlands and mountains were left for tlie buSalo and deer. " But years passed on, — the mountains and liighlands continued to prey upon the waters, and the creeks and rivers gradually reduced tlie limits of their possessions. " Years again fled. The Shoshones, attracted by some better region, fai away, or driven from tlieir homes by the hostile encroachments of othe) tribes, gave place to the Scarred-arms.* " In the course of generations, the Lacotas and the Scarred-arms war red with eacli other ; they ibught with varied success for many years. " Once a party of the Lacotas penenetrated into the heart of the enemy's country ; on their return, they I'ell into an ambuscade, and only eix of them were left to tell the fate of their companions. " Hotly pursued by the Scarred-arms, they sought refuge in a mountain. There an obscure passage led to a recess in the mountain's side, wliich they entered, and were pleased to find within it a gravelly floor, and a pure fountain of sweet water. " Tempted by the conveniences and security of the place, they thought to remain for a few days tliat they might recover their strength. A small fire was built accordingly, and the six braves seated tliemselves around it recounting to each other their perils and dangerous exploits, and planning some mode of extrication from their present difficulties. " Thus busied, a rustling noise from a dark corner of the apartment startled them, — but still more were they aroused by tlie half-disclosed form of a person moving in the distance. Words gave place to silence, as the warriors, seizing their arms, awaited the feared assault. But the figure, on advancing nearer, proved that of a feeble old woman, who addressed ihe wondering group in their own language. " ' Children,' said she, ' you have been against the Scarred-arms, — ^you have fouglit them, — and of a strong party, you alone survive. I kjaovv it all. " ' You seek in my lodge a refuge from your pursuers, — and the sound of your voices with the heat of your council-fire has disturbed my rest and awoke me from a lung, long trance. " ' Your looks enquire my story. " ' JVIany ages have gone, (for days, moons, seasons, and ages are painted before me as tliey pas?,) since the Shoshones, who hved where now live the Scarred-a,rms, visited the lodges of the Lacotas, and bade the prairie drink tlie blood of slaughtered braves. I was tlieir captive, and with the Bcalps of the slain I was taken from the graves of my people, many days travel. " ' The Shoshone brought me to this country, when yet the buffalo grazed npon the hills and mountains, only ; for the valleys and plains were the home of waters. «•' Li\ing with tlie Shoshone, I was not happy. I thought of my peo- •Chyennes. The name owes its origin to the practice of Bcarring the left cemawiBQ yet adhered to by the males of that natioik A STRANGE 3TORY. 12« pie, with all those dear to me, and prayed the Good Spirit tliat I might again behold them ere my passage to the deatli-land. " ' I fled, hoping to reach the home of my birth ;--but age had enfeebled me, and being pursued, I sought refuge in this cave. Here, having passed a night and a day in earnest communion with the Big Medicine,— a stranjre feeling came upon me. I slumbered, in a dreamy state of consciousnesi, from then till now. " ' But your looks again ask, who are the Shoshones ?— what became of them ? And from whence were the Scarred-arms ?' " ' The Lacotas will soon know the Shoshones, and bring from their lodges many scalps and medicine-dogs. Divided into two tribes, that nation long since sought home in other lands. One crossed the snow- hills towards the sun-setting ;~the Lacotas shall visit them, and avenge the blood and wrongs of ages. The other journeyed far away towards the Bun of winter, and now live to the leftward of the places where the His- Danola builds his earth-lodge.* • '"Then came the Scarred-anns from a far ofl' country, a land of much enow and cold. Pleased with the thickly tenanted hunting grounds that here met them, they stopped for the chase, and, by a possession through successive generations, have learned to consider these grounds as their own. But they are not theirs. " ' The Great Spirit gives them to the Lacotas, and they shall inhabit the .and of their daughter's captivity. "♦Why wait ye here? Go and avenge the blood of your comrades upon the Scarred-arras. They even now light their camp-fire by the stream at the mountain's base. Fear not,~their scalps are yours ! Then return ye to ray people, that ye may come and receive your inheri- tance. " ♦ Haste ye, that I may die. And, oh Warkantunga ! inasmuch as thou hast answered the prayer of thine handmaid, and shown to me the facea of my people, take me from hence.' " The awe-struck warriors withdrew. They found the enemy encamped at the foot of the mountain. They attacked him and were victorious }— thirty-tive scalps were the trophies of their success. " On reaching their homes the strange adventure excited the astonish- ment of the whole nation. The Scarred-arms were attacked by our war- riors, thus nerved with the hope of triumph, and were eventually driven from tlie country now possessed by the Locotas as their own. " The grateful braves soon souglit out the mountain, to do reverence to the medicine-woman who had told them so many good things. A niche in the mountain-side, from whence issued a sparkling streamlet, told their p.a2e of refuge ; but the cave and the woman alike had disappeared. "Each successive season do our warriors visit the Shoshones for scalps and medicine-dogs, — and each of our braves, as he passes the Old Woman's * It is a singular fact, that the Cumanches and Snakes, (Shoshones,) though living nearly a thousand miles distant from each otlier, with hostile tribes intervening, spe&k precisely the same iafiguage, and call themselves by the same general name. They nave lost all tradition, however, of having formed one nation, in any previoui HP' 130 THE DEATH SONG. mountain, fails not to bestow Tipon it his tribute of veneration, or qnenflk his thirst from the creek that bears her name." A place on White river — where the stream pours its full force against the base of a lofty peak, and the powerful attrition of its wateps has formed a rocky precipice of several hundred feet in height — is known as " The Death Song." The singularity of this name led me to enquire the reasons which prompted its be^^towment. Ever ready to answer questions of this nature, the old chief related the following story : " Once, on a time, the Oglallas and Burnt-thighs held their encampmen upon the river, opposite to the high point of which my son enquires. While there, a dog-soldier* of tlie Burnt-thighs received the offer of six horses from an Oglalla brave, for his only daughter — a sweet flower — such an one as oft pierces the warrior's heart with her charms, when the arrows of ene- mies fall harmless at his feet. The offer w"as quickly accepted — for the dog-soldier was poor. " When Chischille (for that was the name of the fair one) heard she was to become the wife of the Oglalla, she cried for grief, — and so (Obstinate was her resistance, the marriage was deferred for several days on that account. " But, why did Chischille grieve ? She had looked upon a handsome warrior of her own village, and she loved him. She forgot her duty, as a daughter, to love only at her father's bidding. Her heart had been playing truant and had lost itself in the labyrinths of girlish fancy. Bitter were the fruits of that presumption. " Chischille, in the interval, contrived to meet the one of her choice, and the two fled towards a distant viOage, there to live in the undisturbed en- joyment of their youthful loves. " But, alas, for them ! They were pursued, and overtaken. The life of the young warrior atoned for his temerity, — while Chischille was cruelly beaten and brought back to her father's lodge. " The Oglalla had already paid the purchase price, and, ere the morrow's Bunset, was to receive his fair prize at the hand of the dog-soldier. " Chischille, arising with the dawn, fresh-plaited her hair, and arraying herself in her proudest attire, left the lodge. No one thouglit strange at seeing her thus gaily dressed for lier wedding day, and, as she tripped along, many a warrior's lieart beat high and loud at the thought that a creature so lovely was to become the bride of another. " Directing her course to tlie river, she crossed it and ascended the high peak upon the opposite side. There, seating herself upon the utmost verge of the precipice, she gazed calmly from its dizzy height. " In her lofty station, with her raven locks streaming in the wiijds, and tlie matchless beauty of her person so enchantingly exposed to vifew she seemed more hke a being of the Spirit-Land than aught human. The Bweetest prairie-flower was ne'er half so lovely. " Her strange attitude arrested tlie eyes of all. " 'Why sits she tliere ? — she will fall and be dashed to pieces !' was tba general cry. ' But Usten — she sings !' * This b tha title of those selected to superintend the civil a£&ir8 of a viDage. ASTONISHING FEATS OF JUGGLERY. ISl "* Why should I stay, — he is gone. Light of my eyes, — joy of my Boul, — show me thy dweUing ! — 'Tis not here, — 'tis far away in tne Spirft Land. Thither he is gone. Why shoxild I stay ? Let me go !' •♦'Hear you that ?' said one. 'She sings her death song. She will throw herself from the cliff!' "At this, a dozen warriors, headed by him who claimed her hand, started to rescue the sweet singer from intended self-destruction. ♦• Again she chants : " • Spirit of Death, set me free ! Dreary is earth. Joyless is time. Heart, thou art desolate ! Wed thee another ? Nay. Death is thy husband ! Farewell, oh sun ! Vain is your light. Farewell, oh earth ! Vain are your plains, your flowers, your grassy dales, your purling streams, and shady groves ! I loved you once, — but now no longer love ! Taste- less are your sweets,— cheerless your pleasures ! Thee I woo, kind Death! Wahuspa calls me hence. In life we were one. We'll bask together in the Spirit Land. Who shall sunder there ? Short is my pass to thee. Wahuspa, I come !' " Upon this she threw herself forward, as the warriors grasped at her ; but, leaving Jier robe in their liands, slie plunged headlong and was dashed to pieces among the rocks below !* " E'er since, the young warrior sighs as he beholds this peak, and thinks of the maiden's death song." Conversing upon the subject of medicine-men, he was asked, why those individuals are so highly esteemed by his people ? To this he repUed : " These men are regarded as the peculiar favorites of the Great Spirit, to whom is imparted a more than ordinary share of His power and wisdom. We respect them, therefore, in proportion to the abilities they receive, even as we reverence the Great Spirit." Here the question was proposed, how are their abilities above those of others ? " The Yellow-hair counts as his soldier Tahtunga-mobellu, — a man of strong medicine. To him the Great Spirit has imparted the power of heal- ing, by imbibing, at pleasure, the diseases of ihe sick, and discharging them from his eyes and nose in the form of live snakes.f " On a time, years past, our young men went to the Pawnees and came back crjring ; for sixteen slain of their number were left to grace an enemy's triumph. " It was winter, and the moans of men and maidens mingled with the howling winds. Sorrow beclouded every brow, and brave looked upon brave as if to enquire, ' Who shall wipe out this disgrace ?' Then it was a medicine-chief stood up, and his words were : ♦♦ ♦ Be it for me to consult the Good Spirit.' • A tale wtiich went the rounds of the public prints, several years since, entitled the " Maiden's Leap," affords a seeming coincidence in the mode of suicide ; but, by comparing the two, the reader will observe a broad dissimilarity of detail. In pen ning the above I was guided solely by the leading incidents as related in my hearingi t Tahtungvmobellu receives the averment of all hia vUlagen in proof of thb ■tnngvftat. 182 THE MEDICINE-MAN. " So saying, he entered his lodge alone, nor suffered any to come neai during the long fast that followed. Darkness had closed four times upon the prairie, and Ihe sun again hastened to hide behind the mountain peaks, when, calling the young men to him, tlie medicine-man said : "'Fetch me now meat and water, with a new robe, and bid my people come near, that they may know the words that I would speak.' " The obedient braves made haste and did as bidden. Folding the robe, he sat upon it and partook of the refreshments placed before him. After eating he arose, and six large snakes, crawUng from tlie robe one after another, sprang to his shoulder, and, whispering in his ear, vanished from sight. The last snake had just told his message when the chief began : " ' The Good Spirit wills it, that we remove from hence. Three moons being dead, let three hundred warriors return, and their hearts shall be made glad with medicine-dogs and the scalps of enemies.' "The village left, and, at tlie time appointed, the warriors returned. They met the enemy, — fouglit, and were victorious. Sixty-three scalps and one hundred medicine-dogs were the fruits of their success." Before dismissing the subject, many other particulars were cited in proof of the extraordinary abilities of different medicine-men, but the above being the most remarkable, I have thought proper to pass over the remainder in silence. Note. — An account, still more wonderful than either of the foregoing, was subse- quently narrated in ray hearing, while among the Arapaho Indians ; and, without vouclting for the truth of all its particulars, I am unwilling to withhold it from th» reader. The performance alluded to is said to have occurred, some three years since, in the presence of the whole Arapaho village, incredible as it may seem. The actor was a Kiccaree by nation, and is well known to the mountain traders. In the centre of a large circle of men, women, and children, stood the subject of the appended sketch, stripped to the waist, as the gunner's mark. A shot perforated his body with a bullet, which entered at the chest and emerged from the opposite side. He instantly felJ, and the blood flowing in streams dyed the grass where he lay, and everything seemed to prefigure the reality of death. While in this condition, his wife approached and besprinkled his face with water ; soon after wliich he arose, as from a slumber — tlie blood still pouring from him. Beplastering his wound with mud before and behind, the blood ceased to flow, when he commenced yawning and stretcliing ; in a few niinuies tlie plaster was removed by a pass of the hand, and neither blood, nor wound, nor the sign of a scratch or scar appeared ! There stood the self-restored medicine-man, before the wondering throng alive and well, and in all the pride of his strength I He then brought his naked son into the ring, a lad of some eight years, and, stand ing at a distance of several yards, bow in hand, he pierced him through and through, from diaphragm io vertebree, at three successive shots. The boy fell dead, to every appearance, and the thick blood freely coursed from hia wounds. The performer then clasped the body in his arms and bore it around the ring for the inspection of all, three times in succession. Ujion this he breathed into his mouth and nostrils, and, after suffusing his face with water and covering his wounds with a mixl p<?.. JIL ^sr, Pt ■0^. ' Boat building.— Hunting expedition. — Journey up the Platte.— Island camp. — Narrow •■cape. — Snow storm —Warm Spring. — Pasa of the Platte into the prairie*. — A ▼alley.— Bitter Cottonwood.— Indian forta. — Wild fruit. — Root-digging. — Cherry tea and its uses. — (reulogy of the country. — Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and parity of atmosphere.— Horae-shoe creek. — A panther. — Prairie dogs and their pecnitar- itiM. OuB intended evacuation of the post waa posponed till the weeic follow- ing, and, meanwhile, the few customers, that still hung on, were careM to Improve the passing opportunity of steeping their senses in hquor. Another genera] drunken frolic was the consequence, ending as asoal in a fight and still further attempts upon the hfe of our trader. wx)n after this, our catalogue of disasters was increased by the death of two horses, which fell a prey to wolves. The case was an aggravated one, and provoking in the extreme. Both of them were " bulfalo horses," and the fleetest and most valuable in oar possession, — in fact, they were tlie only ones of which we ventured to boast We had others of little worth, so poor and feeble they could oppose none fMistance to magpies,* and much less to tlie rapacity of wolves. But, no. These blood-tliirsty depredators, desirous of a feast of fat thines, were determined to have it, reckless of cost, — and, the encrimsoi]^ tracks, coursing the snowy plain in every direction where passed the awift * The magpie of the mountains is the torment of all soie-boeked horaea, pardenbriy during the winter season. Despite oppceition it will feed upon tLait ifciiilwi taA, «Ahi to tiM very booofc 144 BOAT BU1LL>1N0. chargers in vain effort to escape, proved that they won their supper at an enormous expense of leg-wear. Feb. 4th. All things being in readiness, we bade fareweU to winter- quarters, and commenced our journey. Crossing the river soon after, on ascending the opposite bank, a cart up* sot and deposited its contents in the water. The load, consisting of robes and powder, became thoroughly saturated, and we were employed a full hour in fishing it out. The stream being waist-deep and filled with floating ice, amid wiiich we were forced to plunge, our task was far from a pleasant one. • The freight needed drying, and we were detained two days for that pur- pose. Meanwhile the drenched powder was subjected to the experiments of one of our engages. Having spread it to dry, he was carelessly bend- ing over it, when a spark from the camp-fire struck the ready ignitible ; a sprightly flash, enveloping the luckless wight in a sheet or flame, told the instant result. Springing to iiis feet, he exclaimed : " Bless my stars I That's what I call regular blotving up /" " Aye, aye, my lad," says one. " You was always a bright youth, — but never before did you appear half so brilliant. 'Tis a fact, or I'm a liar !" Resuming our course, the second night following was passed at a pool of water between L'eau-qui-court and Rawhide. Here, having placed my shoes under ray head for better security, I slept soundly till morning. Rising at an early hour. I turned for them, but one was missing, and, after searching far and near, it could not be found. The mystery of its disappearance, however, was fully solved by the nu- merous wolf tracks tiiat appeared on all sides; — some straggling marauder had stolen it during the night, and quietly deposited it in his empty stomach as the sabstiiute for an early breakfast. Our camp at Rawhide was beset with a throng of Indians from an adjoin- ing vil'age, who, as usual, were loudly clamorous and importunate for liquor. A bea'icifii! young squaw was brought in, to exchange for that article. Hov.ever, tl.oir solicitations were of no avail and their vitiated appetites went unappeaeed. On the i2th of February we reached the Fort, and thus ended our disas- trous and eventful expedition. Winter in the neighborhood of the Platte had been remarkably mild, and at no time during the season had the snow remained upon the ground to exceed a day. Vegetation, even thus early, was beginning to put forth, and bring to view the beautj' and loveliness of spring. Preparations were already on foot for building a boat for the transporta^ lion of furs to the States by way of the river, and, at the solicitation of of the company's agent, I reluctantly consented to take charge of it during tlie voyage,— thus deferring, for the present, my design of visiting Oregon. The timber used in its construction was procured from the neighboring pine hills, and prepared by a laborious process of hand, with the aid of a pit-saw. The ribs and otJier timber were obtained from an a.-sh grove, a few A I'KITI JLOOKL-'iG SET. 145 miles above the Fort, and three men were busily engaged in putting all things in readiness for the expected spring rise — an event which seldom occurs before the 16th cf May. The winter's tradj having closed, an interval of nearly three months' lei&ure followed, which resulted in a hunting expedition that included my self witli six others. Anxious to explore the mountains, we set our faces westward ; but, owing to tlie reported closeness of game en route, very little provisions were taken with other necessaries. Keeping the river bottom by a rocky ridge for some ten miles, our coursa led through several beautil'ul groves and broad stretches of ricli alluvial soil, tliat presented an encouraging prospect to agriculturists. After a few hours' ride we came to a point at which the stream sv^eeps round the ridge's base, causing a vertical wall of lias and sandstone nearly one hun- dred and iifty feet high. Abandoning tlie river bottom at this place, we ascended to the high uraii-ie on the left, where an interesting plateau greeted us, extending far away to the south and west, till it became lost in the neighboring moun- tains. Continuing on a short distance, we again struck the river, at a small opening between two hills, and made camp in a grove of willows. Opposite this place is a large heavily wooded island, of a blueish Icam, upon a subtratura of fossiliferous limestone. Above a!\d bolow are lofty walls of limestone and ferrugiuous rock, tliat, in many places, overhang the sweeping waters at their base, and form roof- age beneath which swarms of prairie swallows are wont to raise their annual broods. Consuming our scanty supply of provisions at a single meal, each soon disposed of himself for the night. A mild atmosphere invited to repose ; and, enwrapped in a single robe, my trouble.s were speedily forgotten in a qiiot slumber. But during the succeeding interval, a change came over the spirit of my dream. I was suddenly aroused by the crash of a huge tree, that fell across my bed, and only a providential curve arching upwards, had saved me from instant death ! "Hurra, for me!" I exclaimed, as my startled campmates came cluster- ing around, — " It's better to be born lucky than rich!" The wind was nov/ blowing a perfect hurricane, and the trees tottered around us, threatening every moment to fall. In an hour or so, however, the gale abating, we again addressed ourselves to sleep. Towards morning, feeling a disagreeable warmth and superincumbent pressure, I was induced to uncover, and, looking out, the cause was ex- plained by the presence of a dense snow that covered the ground to the depth of several inches. The fallen snow was melting fast, and that yet descending soon merged into rain. A pretty-looking set of fellovi's were we, in a comparatively short time ! — ^blankets, robes, clothes, and every article about us were wet — soaking wet — and covered with mud. It required an eifort of several hours to kindle a fire, so thoroughly saturated was everjrthing with water; — this done, we all gathered aroimd it, and — such a group ! — Oh, the beauties of mud and water ! A painter might describe it, — I camioU 13 146 INDIAN FORTS. If the reader imagines we felt in a superlative good humor while stand" Ing there, breakfastless, shivermg, and wet, he has conjured up a strange illusion. It having ceased raining about mid-day, in the course of the afternoon we enjoyed a beautiful sunshine for a couple of hours, which enabled us to assume a better travelling plight ; and, favored by a mild atmosphere and clear sky, on the following morning, we again resumed our course. Striking upon an Indian trail, we bare leftward from the river, and, in a short ride, came to a sand creek shui in by precipitous embankments of limestone, tnrough which our road led by a narrow defile. A transparent spring gushes frorn the right bank with considerable noise, furnishing a beautiful streamlet to its hitherto high bed, which is known as the " Warm Spring." A short distance above the mouth of this creek, the Platte makes its final egress from the Black HiOs tlirough a tunnel-like pass, walled in upon either side by precipitous clifi:^ of red-sandstone and siliceous lime- stone, sometimes overhanging the stream at their base, and towering to a height of from three to five hundred feet. The high table lands consti- tuting these immense walls, are surmounted with shrubs and occasional pines and cedars, that unite to present a wild romantic scenery. Continuing on, and bearing still further leftward, we passed a beautiful valley, graced with several springs and a small grove of cottonwood, with cherry and plum bushes, near which rose a conical hill abundant in fos- sihferous limestone of a snowy whiteness. A diminutive pond in the vicin- ity afforded several varieties of the testaceous order, both bivalves and univalves — a circumstance quite rare among mountain waters. The soil of this locality appeared to be a compound of clay, sand, and marl, and well adapted to agriculture. Passing this, our course led over a gently undulating prairie, bounded on either side by pine hills. The soil was generally of a reddish, sandy loam, intermixed with clay ; and, judging from the long dry grass of the preceding year, it was both rich and productive. Towards night we arrived at a large creek, bearing the name of Bittei Cottonwood, — so called from the abundance of that species of poplar i& its valley. These trees generally grow very tiill and straight with expansive tops, — averaging from twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet in height. The creek occupies a wide, sandy bed, over which the water is dispersed in several shallow streams. The valley is broad and of a jetty, vegetable mould, variegated, at intervals, with layers of gravel deposited by aqueous currents, and is bounded on both sides by abrupt acclivities leading to the beautiful plateaux and lofty pine hills so abundant in the neighborhood. The remains of three or four Indian forts were situated adjoimng the place selected for our encampment. These were built of logs, arranged in a circular form, and enclosing an area, sufficient for the accommodation of twenty or thirty warriors. The walls were generally about six feet high, with single entrances, and apertures in various places for ti.e use of their defenders in case of attack. All Indian forts, meeting my observation in subsequent travels, with one flU two exceptions, were of the same general description. Some, howSTtr CPIERRY TEA. 147 are almost entirely roofed in by an arched covering, presenting a coniform appearance. The only e-xception to this mode oi fortitication was of a qnadrangular form, and in a solitary iiistance tlie materials were of rock. The latter structure I shall take occasion to describe in due course. The valley gave abundant indication of wild fruit at the proper season, — Buch as plums, cherries, currants, goose and buUalo berries, (sliepherdia argentea.) The signs of game were very plentiful, particularly elk ; — after camp two or three of us sallied out with our rifles in quest of these wary animals, while others were busily employed in digging for roots tc appease the gnawing of appetite, which began to make itself most sensibly felt by all. About sundown both parties came in, — the hunters quite dispirited, not having seen any thing in the shape of elk or other game, — but the root diggers had been more lucky and brought with them a small supply of nutritious aliments, which were divided equally among the company, — and, through scarcely a half dozen mouthfuls were apportioned to each, they answered, to some extent, the designed object. These roots consisted of two varieties, viz : pomme blanc, and com- mote. The pomme blanc, or white apple, is a native of the prairies and moun- tains, oval shaped and about three and a half inches in circumference. It is encased in a thin fibrous tegument, which, when removed, exposes an interior of white pulpy substance, much like a turnip in taste. It gen- erally grows at a depth of three or four inches, in the soil of hill-sides and plateaux, whore is found a reddish clay loam abundant in fragmentary rocks and gravel. The stalk attains a height of about three inches, and in general description is quite like a well known article, common to the States, called " sheep-sorrel." At the proper season it bears a handsome white blossom, that would suffer no disparagement when placed in juxtaposi- tion with many of the choicer specimens of our gardens. The commole* is a root much like the common radish in size and shape, while a brownish skin envelopes a substance of milky whiteness, soft and nutritious, and of an agreeable taste. It is found most abundant in river bottoms, and requires a rich alluvial soil, well mixed with sedimentary deposites and vegetable matter. It generally penetrates to a depth of about four inches. Its leaves resemble those of the carrot in shape and color, and seldom grow to exceed two inches from the ground, while a stalk equally unpretending, bears a blueish blossom, not without some just claim to beauty. The pomme blanc and commote are equally good whether boiled or raw and are uniformly harmless, even with those unaccustomed to their use ai an article of food. Making way with our scanty supply, a fire was struck and a kettle of teaprepared from wild cherry bark, wliich proved quite wholesome. This, as I ascertained, is a drink quite common among mountaineers and Indians in the spring season, and is used for purifying the blood and reducing it to suitable consistency for the temperature of summer. Ai the iuccessful performer of the task assigned, I most cordially attest to * I am j^Qorajit of th« meaning or darivatioa of this nana«. 148 f Asrmo AND rKArrnw. its virtues, and rccommerid it as the most innocent and effective medicine, if medicine it may be caiied, that can bo employed for a result so neces- eary to general health. Early on the succeding day we resumed our journey. I now for the first time noticed a gradual change in the geological character of t!ic coimlry. The soil in many places appears to be sterile, and is generally of a red cluyish nature, mixed with sand and fragmentary rock, and strongly impregnated with mineral salts, among which nitre forms a jiromiuent component. Some spots, for a considerable extent, are entirely destitute of vegetation, and present a surface whitened by saline efflorescences, among which nitre and sulphate of soda fc7n % predominant part. The character of the various moulds (v/ith the exception of the allu- vion in the vicinity of the rivers and creeks) is almost entirely primitive, like numerous strata of rocks upon which they repose. The grass, from the dry specimens of the previous summer's gro^'th, appeared to be of a longer and a coarser kind, and more sparse and iso- lated. Tiic short bufialo-grass of the grand praii-ie had almost entirely disappeared, — in some places a blaeish salt grass (herba salee) showed itself in plats uncropped by game. Arlemisic,* or rather greasewood of the mountaineers, became quite abundant, as did absinthe, or wild sage, together with soverals specimens of the cadi family, which are the common pet=t of the mountain prairies. The purifying effects of saline exhalations, with the odor of the grease- wood and absinthe of the prairies, plateaux and table lands, and the balsam and cedar of the adjacent mountains, afforded an atmosphere, even at this unfavorable season, as aromatic as the air of Eden and as wholesome as the deathless clime of Elysium. Eastward lay a broad expanse of prairie, bounded only by the hor- izon, while westv/ard, and upon either hand, the high summits of the Black Hills, with their pines and snows, told out ingress to other and wilder scenes. Our course, for some twenty or twenty-five miles, led through a broad valley, though occasionally winding among rugged hills of red- sandstone and primitive rock, with denuded sides and level summits, covered with shrubs and dvt'arfish pines. Towards night, on reaching a small stream, called Horse-shoe creek, we struck camp. One of the party having killed a buck deer, we were promptly on hand, and not at all backward in obeying the calls of appetite, sharpened by a continuous abstinence of three days. • Lt. Fremont, in his report relative to the proceedings of the expedition of 1842, '3, and '4, has designated some three varieties of shrubs by the general term Arte- rnisie, among which are greasewood and prairie sage. AltJioiigli the latter are of ;he same family, the difference in their appearance is so marked, I have thought it proper to observe a nominal distinction, and for that reason they are called, in sub- sequent pages, by terms familiar to the mountaineers. PBATRH! DOQB. 149 Deer-meat at this season of the year is very poor eating, — espec- ially that of the buck,— it being both lean and tough; but, indifferent as it was, we were too hungry to be nice. Previous to reaching camp I ro;Ie along the base of a small moun- tain, some distance to the right of the main party, in quest of game; there I caught glimpse of the first panther 1 had yet met with. Jumping from my horse, I thought to give him a passing shot, — but he, neither liking my looks nor the smell of gunpowder, made hasty retreat to his mountain home. Passing leisurely on, my course led through a large village of prairie-dogs, which reminds me of having heretofore neglected a description of these singular animals. I am at a loss to imagine what it is in the habits or looks of the prairie-dog that entitles him to that appellation. In appearance and size he more approximates a large species of the sciurus family, commonly called the fox-squirrel, than anything I can name. His tail, however, is but an inch and a half long, wliile his ears and legs are also short ; — as a whole, perhaps, he is a trifle larger and more corpu- lent than the fox-sqnirrcl. His "bark" is precisely hke the occasional chatterings of that animal, and his color is of a brownish red. His habits are quite inofTensive and lead him to procure his food from rcjts and grass. Clumsy in his motions, he seldom ventures far from home — fearful of the numerous enemies that beset him on all sides, both from birds and beasts of prey. Those animals congregate together in large villages, and dig their bur- rows adjoining each other ; — the dirt thrown from them often forming cone- like elevations three or four feet high, in whose tops are the entrances. The latter are nearly of a perpendicular descent for two feet, and then slope away to a great distance under ground. These villagers locate without regard to tlie vicinity of water, and it is gravely doubted, by many persons, whether they make the same use of that fluid as other animals ; — I have seen large settlements of them in high arid prairies, at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles from eitlier stream or pool of water, and in regions subject to neither rain nor dews. They are keen of sight and scent, and seemed governed by some code of federative regulations for mutual safety. Their guards are regularly pos1"ed at the suburbs of every village, whose duty it is to be continually on the alert and give tii„^^ly warning of the approach of danger. This the cautious sentinels discharge by standing erect at the slightest tainture of the air, or startling noise, or strange appearance ; and, having ascertained by carefvi- observations its nature and cause, they sound the sharp yelp and chatter ^f alarm, in a hurried manner, — then, betaking themselves to the watch-iowers that protect the entrances to their burrows, from the verge of the steep parapets they again renew their warning notes, when the whilom busy popu a o, bcscattered at brief distances for amuse- ment or food, return with al ^•:5ible despatch to their ready holes and dis- appear from view. The faithful sentinels are las., to retreat from their posts, and not unfrd auently maintain their ground at *\\e hazard of individual safety. 13 ^ 160 WILD SCENES. On the disappearance of the cause of alarm, they are the first to cent municate tlie pleasing intelligence, and soon the reassured community again betake tliemselves to their business and sports. The prairie-owl and rattlesnake maintain friendly relations with these inoffensive villagers, and not unfrequently the three heterogeneous associates occupy the same subterranean appartments ; — a strange companionship of birds, beasts, and reptiles ! The prairie dog is extremely tenacious of life, and can seldom be killed witli a rifle, unless by a brain-shot ; and then, even, it is difficult to secure him, as his compaaions will immediately convey the carcase into their holea beyond reach. The flesh of these animals is tender and quite palatable, and their oil superior in fineness, and absence from all grosser ingredients, to that of any other known animals ; it is higlily valued as a medicine in certain cases. CHAPTER XIII. The Creek valley. — ^The Platte aa a mountain stream. — Caiion. — Romantic prospect. — Comical bear story. — Perilous encounter vnth a wounded bull. — Geological re- marks.— Division of party. — Safety of spring travel. — La Bonte's creek. — Remarks by the way.— Service-berry. — Deer Creek. — General observations. — Moccasin mak- ing.—Box-elder.— Bear killed. — Excellence of its flesh. — Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the moimtains. — The grizzly bear, his nature and habits. HoRSE-sHOE creek is a stream of considerable size, that traces its way through a broad valley of rich alluvion, well timbered with cottonwood and box-elder, and aflbrding all the usual varieties of mountain fruit. The grass of the preceding year's growth was quite rank and stout, giving evidence of a fertile soil. Resuming our course, we again bore towards the river with the design of crossing, and, after a few hours' ride came to its banks, through a broad opening between two ridges of hills that communicated with it from the high prairies and table lands upon the left. Here, however, fording was impracticable, the stream being too high and the current swift. The Platte of the mountains retains scarcely one characteristic of the river with which the reader has hitherto become so familiarized. It is now confined to a bed of rock and gravel, not exceeding two hundred yards in widtli, and is of unwonted clearness and transparency. Its banks are ■teep, and the attrition of high waters discloses a deep vegetable mould in iheir vicinity, favorable to tlie growth of grain or other produce. A small bottom of rich sandy loam upon the opposite side lay at the bast if a high ridge of table lands, which presented ita rugged sidei of rat mTERESTmO VIE V. 1*1 ■andgtone, almost vertical in their position, and ornamented with an occa- sional stunted pine, or cedar, or shrub of the bufFalo-berry, {shepherdia ar- IjerUea,) while at their base reposed, in huge masses, a profuse medley of fallen fragments, strown around in all tlie wild confusion of savage scenery. A few hundred yards to tlie left, the Platte forces its way through a barrier of table lands, forming one of those striking pecuUarities incident to mountain streams, called a "canon."* Improving the opportunity afforded by a short stay, I ascended an emi- nence to enjoy a full vew of the grand spectacle. The mountain through which the river finds passage, at this place, is from five to eight hundred feet high, opposing perpendicular walls upon each side, that at many points overhang the narrow stream which sweeps with its foaming waters among the rocks below. This canon is nearly two miles in length. About midway of the dis- tance the whole stream is precipitated in an unbroken volume from a ledge of rocks, causing a cataract of some twenty or twenty-five feet descent. Standing upon tlie dizzy verge of this frightful chasm, and gazing adown its dark abyss, the aspect is one of terrific sublimity, and such an one as will cause the beholder to shrink back with instinctive dread ! These walls are principally of red-sandstone, and ferruginous rock, the frecise character of which I was unable to determine. Upon the summit noticed an abundance of silex, with some elegant specimens of crystal- Une quartz, that, reflecting the sun's rays, shone like gems in the crown of a mountain-god ; a number of singular ligneous petrifactions also met my observation, principally consisting of pine and cedar. The surrounding country brought within the scope of vision an interest- ing and romantic scene. The lofty table land in front (with diversified surfaces of granitic rock and vegetable earth, affording a scanty nourish- ment for herbage and foothold for dwarfish cedars and pines) spread far away to the snow-clad mountains of the north, — while rearward at its base lay the broad valley through which passes tiie Oregon trail, shut in upon two sides by rugged hills ; and farther on arise the snowy sides of the Lara- mie chain, with their cloud-capped summits. To the left, peak towering above peak, in gradual succession, point tD the ridge dividing the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific ; and, to the right, the lessening eminences, vallons, and plateaux, guide the eye to where the boundless prairie revels in wild beauty and owns itself the realm of eternal Solitude! How magnificent must be the scene when spring arrays the surrounding landscape in her own loveliness, and bedecks the wilderness with gaudy ▼erdure ! Bearing again to the left, we continued our course by a winding bufFdlo-path which soon brought us to a broad valley bordering upon the Platte. •The Spanish word " canon" implies a narrow, tunnel-like passage between high and pracipitous banks, formed by mountains or ifible lands. It is pronounced kajcton, and u » famiUar term in the vocabulary of a mountaineer. 192 OBsERV.ViiONs. Riding on, we soon came lo a large sand creek ; and observing severa. bulls in the vicinity, we accepted tlie advantage offered by a small grove of cottonwoods and willows with a clear spring, and struck camp. Durina the day, the oddity of an old Franco-Canadian, who accompa- nied us, afforded me considerable amusement. Observing that he had car- ried his gun uncharged for several days past, a circumstance so singular CTtruB country led me to enquire the cause. The old fellow, with the most lauo-hable satifr froid, answered as JoUows : ,, , r i j ""Me carry fusee load ? No, no ! monsieur. No good, carry fusee load Bur ie printems. Certes, much bear come out— him dangereux. Me live long en le montagnes ; oui, no remarque— duo, tree, great many year . Sacre dem bear,— vat you call him en la American ? « Gnzziy bear. I suppose you mean," said I. ^ . . , , " Oui, oui, monsieur ; much graces, monsieur i Oui, gizzle bear ; me narler bon American, que no remarque gizzle bear ! ^« ntonner ! Sacre dcm eizzie bear, him come out une day, kill me dc pres. » Well" continued I; " what lias that to do with cairying your gun Mn- ''''»Oui,oui; pardonner, monsieur. Me parler tel une bon Aiuericvai! IVie reciter, sacre dem bear,— vat you call hira, monsieur ? Oh, gizzle bear ! Sacre dem gizzle bear, me see him une day, en le printems ; big, grand felleu. Shoot him fusee ; make him much blood ; no kul him. Sacre dem bear, gizzle bear, hiia jump for mo. '\/a-r-r-h! he say, (im- italin^ tlie bear.) Bon Dieu ! me no stay dare; me bem fast i un mo aband-oaner la fusee ; me climb une leetil pine. Sacre dem bcar-vat you call him ? Ah, oui, gizzle bear. Certes, monsieur, me parlei bon Amer- ' .an, tel un. nature! ! Sacre dem bear, him come to tree ; no climb uun, -he too leetil. Look him all roimd, den ; sacre dem bear gizzle beai d.d. See fusee lie; pick him up; cock him fusee, sacre dem bear, gizzle bear dfd TSehirnaimatme-, snap him fusee ^ree time. pa,".onDiea! monDieu! Suppose him fusee been load ! Tonnerre de bateme - Him Thoot me; him kill me dead! sacre dem bear, dem gizze bear vould! Certesrmonsieur ; por le assure, sacre dem gizzle bear, him kill me! en le vtritc, m.onsieur, him kill me dead !" i j„j ; . „^„ « So," resumed I, " your reason for not carryino- your gun loaded ., you are fearful that a bear might chance to get hold of it and shoo, you I « Certes, monsieur ; en le v.rite ! No carry gmi load, eur le pnnlema. Sacre dem bear get 'old of him, he shoot !" Towards night, two of our party, who had gone in pursuit of buJfalo returned laden with meat, which, though poor, was far preferable to the kan venison we had lerl upon for the last twenty-four hours_ The male buffalo, at this season of the year, is generally fatter than the femal- unles. it be one of the few barren cows that sometimea are found in large bands; but, -nsitlier is worth boasting ot. After our long fasting and indifferent fare for six entire days, it is not marvellous fhat we improved, with quick..iied zest, the present op- portuuity of feasting. DIVISION OF PARTY. IfiS The day following, two parties started in quest of game, — one of which killed three bulls, at as many shots, witliin half an hour after leaving camp. The other party also killed two, but, in securing one of them, tliey met with an exciting adventure. Both animals were extended upon tlie ground, one entirely and the other apparently dead — the hunters, having butchered one nf tliein, proceeded to the other,' and were in the act of raising him to the right position tor the commencement of operation. The old fellow, not relishing Uie like famil- iarity from new acquaintances, sprang to his feet, and made a plunge at the affiii/hted hunters, who only escaped the fatal charge by one of those admirabte feats of quick dodging so often m requisition among moun- taineers. The bull, passuig between them, fell head foremost against the ground, two or three feet beyond the spot they iiad occupied scarcely a second previous; — then rising, with glaring eyes and distended nostrils, and mouth foaming with blood and rage, he pursued one of tiiem in hot ciiaso, for a distance 1)f several hundred" yards. So close was the bull in a few leaps, that with a sweep of his horns he gored the hunter's back, tearing away his pantJiiooiis and coat, and prostrating him upon all-fours at the edge of a deep ravine, down which iie tumbled ; — the enraged beast fol- lowed, but the force of an unbroken headway landed him, wirh a tri'men- dous shock, against the opposite bank, far beyond the hunter. Improve ing the advantage thus gained, the latter escaped through the windings of the ravine, and ascended the bank, without the reach of his pursuer. Havino' procured his ritle, after nine more shots had riddled tiie lights of the butl's carcase, the business of butchering was again commenced and terminated without furtlier mishap. Our stay at this camp was prolonged for three or four days. The geological character of tlie vicinity corresponds very much with that previously remarked, and to describe it in full would seem too much like a repetition. I have, perhaps, said sufficient to give the reader a cor- rect idea of tlie prominent characteristics of these parts, and hence, for the sake of brevity, shall hereafter forbear further Tiotes upon this sidyect, uiUeB" °ome uniform change or striking peculiarity should call for a passing observation. Prior to resuming our journey, a disagreement occurred between us rel- ative to the proposed route. Some were desirous of proceeding southward into the Plains of Lara- mie ; thence, bearing eastward to Laramie river, following its valley to Fort Platte ; — others were anxious to continue up the Platte to Sweet VVater, or further, and from thence proceed as circumstances or inclination might Buggest. This ditFcronce finally resulted in a division of the party, — four va favor of the western, and three of tlie southern route, — myself being in- cluded with tlie former. Selecting two pack-moles for the conveyance of provieionB and cunp- 154 JttOCCASIN MAKIHa. equipage, the day following we mounted our horses and were under way With the exception of myself, tlie present party consisted of old and ex perienced mountaineers, well acquainted with the country and the nature of Indians. Though, in regard to the latter, little danger was apprehen- ded at this season of the year, as the Sioux had not yet left their winter quarters, and they rarely traverse the vicinity of Sweet Water before the middle of May. Other tribes we might look upon as friendly. We, therefore, anticipated a safe and pleasant excursion. During the day our course led over a rough undulating prairie, bounded on the right mostly by the river, and on the left by the mountains. In the heads of vaUeys and ravines I noticed numerous withered stalks of the bread-root, (j)soralea esculenta.) indicating its great abundance, and also an increased quantity of absinths. At night we encamped at the forks of a small stream called La Bonte's creek. Near the confluence of its waters with the Platte are the remains of a log cabin, occcupied by a trading party several years since. The creek is tolerably well timbered, and the valley, through which it winds its way, afTords many beautiful bottoms of rich soil. The rock in the vicinity disclosed a furruginous character, especially the sandstone. Among the usual fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, I here noticed the " service berry." This kind of fruit is very abundant in the mountainous parts of Oregon, where it attains a size but little inferior to the common plum, and is highly esteemed for its superior flavor. Leaving La Bonte's creek, we travelled by easy stages, for three suc- cessive days, and struck camp at the mouth of Deer creek. Our course led over several beautiful streams, most of them well tim- bered with Cottonwood and box-elder, and occasionally skirted by rich bot- toms. Previous to reacliing tliis point we followed along the Platte valley, for a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, which presented several fine bottoms of rich sandy soil upon either bank, together with numerous groves of cottonwood. The face of the country is generally a succession of ridges and hol- lows, intersected by rannes and small streams of water. At Deer creek, and for some distance before reaching it, the mountain chain to our left approaches within four or five miles of tlie river rising abruptly to a height of from eight to fifteen hundred feet, with frowning brows and pine-clad summits. Deer creek is one of the largest affluents of the Platte, from the south, between Sweet Water and Laramie. At this place it is about eight yardi broad, with a smooth and transparent current that sweeps over a bed of rock and gravel. Its banks are well timbered with large cottonwoods, and present rich bottoms of alluvial soU, very luxuriant in grass. Even this early in the season, tlie fresh grass of the vicinity affords tempt- ing nourishment for our animals, and wishing to favor them as much ai possible, we have concluded to remain a short time. During the succeeding interval we were variously occupied In hunting roU-diggin^- :.'' moccasin-ir.aking. The latter is a business in which ▲ f Ejvst of bear meat. I6fi •very mountaineer is necessarily a proficient, and rarely will he ventni* upon a long journey without llie appurtenances of his profession. The process of shoe-viaking witJi him is reduced to its most simple form. He merely takes two pieces of buffalo (or any other suitable) skin, each being a little longer and wider than his foot, particularly towards the heel ; tliese he folds separately, and lays them togetlier paraUel with the turned edges ; tlieii, roundhig and trimming tiie sides, to render them foot- Bhaped, with an awl and tlie sinew of buflalo or other animal, or small Btrips of tliin deer-skin, (" whang") he sews tlie vamps from end to end, — then after cutting a tongue-like appendage in the upper side, midway from heel to toe, and stitching together the posterior parts, his task is done. Having obtained a quantity of sap from a giove of box-elders near camp, we found it a sweet and pleasant liquid, and not inferior to that of maple. Sugar might be manufactured from it, with Uttle trouble. The leaves of this tree, as well as tlie general appearance of its wood greatly assimilate those of maple, and, independent of its busJiy tops and stunted, winding growth, it would be hard to tell the difference at a first glance. Game was plenty on every side, both buffalo, deer, and elk, with some few bear. The second day after our arrival, one of the latter, attracted by the scent of fresh buffalo meat, ventured within gun-shot of camp. Instantly the balls of four rifles were buried in his carcase. Aroused by \h\a feeling salute, he rushed towards us at the top of Ids speed, when our horses, aflJighted at the strange appearance, broke snorting away over the neigh- boring hills, and we ourselves took to trees as fast as possible. Li the midst of this general consternation a pistol ball, fired by one of the party, buried itself in the brains of our troublesome visitor and laid him prostrate. He was one of a species common to the mountains, called tlie red bear, and must have weighed four or five hundred pounds. The fat upon his back was full tluee inches thick His skin when stretched would have compared in size to that of a buffalo, and the claws of his feet were full three inciies long. At tins season of tlie year, when tliese annuals first leave their dens, tney are much the fattest, — a singular circumstance, if we remember the fact of their remaining holed up for the entire winter, without eating ! After butchering the greasy victim, and bringing our erratic horses back lo camp, we regaled ourselves with an ample feast of bear's liver, heart, and kidneys, basted witli fat, — a dish lliat epicures might well covet. Then, filling a large camp-kettle with portions of the " fleece " and ribs, we allowed it to boil till the next morning, and thus prepared another deii- tious entertaitiment, such as is rarely met with in any country other tlian ihis. Bear meat, to be tender and good, should be boiled at least ten hours. This is probably the most preferable mode of cooking it, tliough a roast ot [lie article is far from bad. ''^here are four aeyeral varieties of bear found in the Rocky Mountains IN JfATURE AND HABITS OF THE GRIZZLY BSAB^ aad cooAtries adjacent, viz. : The grizzly bear, the black, the red, and the white. Of these, the grizzly bear stands pre-eminent in ferocity and strength. He will almost invariably flee at the sight or scent of a man, and seldom attacks any one unless wounded. When shot, he generally runs at full speed towards tlie sound, and woe to the imfortunate hunter who then comes in his way, unless fully prepared for a deadly encounter ! This animal reigns prince of tiie mountains, and every other beast within his wide realm acknowledges his supremacy. Wolves and panthers dare not approach him, or disturb aught savoring of his ownership. Even the carcase of his pre}', coverud with cne eanh and rock his cautious instinct teaches him to heap upon it for preservation, is unmolested, tliough hundreds of wolves and panthers might be starving around. Buffalo dread his presence far more than the dangerous approach of the hunter, and wUl sooner bring into requisition their swiftest powors of flight on such occasions. With great difficulty a horse can can ba per- suaded to go within any near distance of one of them, even when led, and then he will quail and tremble in every joint, from extreme terror. In short, the grizzly bear stalks forth at pleasure, in his majesty and etreugth, lord -oi the wild solitudes in which he dwells, and none dares op- pose him. Some writers assert that bears will not prey upon dead carcases, — this is contrary to fact. I have often knova tiiem take possession of the t-arcases of animals, even when nearly patrid, and remain until they were fefivoured. They frequently kill buffalo, horses, and cattle to gratify their taste foi ^aimal food, and, in such cases, always drag their prey to some convenient Bpot, and perform the task of burial by heaping upon it piles of rock or e^rtli, to a depth of several feet, for protection ag-ainst the voracity of othei ceasts of prey. It is not uncommon, even, that tiiey drag the entire carcase of a full-grown bull a distance of several hundred yards, by the horns, foi this Durpose,— 80 great is their strength and so accute their sagacity IpnpiTCUBRAR^l ;^3T0R. LENOX ut CHAPTER XIV Deaperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suflering. — Close contest. — ^A comical incident. — Cross Platte.— Canon camp.— Sage trees — Mountain sheep, and all about them.— Independence Rock ; why so called, and description of it.— Devil's Gate.— Landscape scenery. The adventure recorded in the preceding chapter called forth the re- hearsal of many thrilling stories of friglitful encounter with that proud monarch of the mountains, tlic grizzly bear. Two or three of these it may not be uninteresting to transcribe. Several years since, an old trapper by the name of Glass, with his com panion, while on an excursion, ca ne upon a large grizzly bear. Bruin, having received the salute of two rifles, as usual, rushed towardt his uncivil assailants, who broke from him with all possible despatch. But Glass, stumbling, fell prostrate in his flight, and before he could recover liis feet the infuriated beast was upon him. Now commenced a death-struggle. The pistols of the hunter were both discharged in quick succession, — the ball of one entering the breast of his antagonist, and that of the other grazing his back. Smarting and maddened by the pain of additional wounds, the bleeding monster continued the conflict with the fury of desperation, — tearing from the limbs and body of the unfortunate man large pieces of trembling flesh, and lacerating him with the deep thrusts of his teeth and claws. Meanwliile the sufferer maintained, with his butcher-knife, an obstinate defence, though with fast waning effort and strength. Finally, enfeebled Ly the loss of blood, and exhausted from the extraordinary exertions of a desptrate and unequal contest, he was unable to oppose further resis- tance, and quietly resigned himself to his fate. The bear, too, with the thick blood oozing from his numerous wounds, and faint from the many stabs among his veins and sinews, seemed equally in favor of a suspension of hostihties ; and, extending himself across the hunter's back, he remained motionless for two hours or more. But now another enemy commences an assault upon his vitals — that enemy is death. In vain is defensive effort. In vain are all his stnigglea. He falls by the hunter's side a lifeless corse. The setting sun had cast his lurid glare upon the ensanguined spot, as the comrade of the miserable Glass ventured near to ascertain the resull of the fierce encounter. There lay the body of his deserted friend, stretched out, apparently life- less and half-torn to pieces ; and, by its side, lay the carcase of that ene- my, which liad waged with it such murderous war, cold and stiflened in death! Now, doubly tenifftd at his loneliossi, but still goveraed by Mrdid 160 A CLOSE CONTEST. tives, he stripped the former of his arms and every ether valuable, tlien no longer needed (as he supposed) by their owner, and, mounting his horse, started immediately for the nearest trading poet. On his arrival he recounted the particulars of the fatal occurrence, — carefully concealing, however, his own criminal conduct. The story was accredited, and the name of Glass found place upon the long catalogue of those who had fallen a piey to wild beasts and savage men. Six weeks elapsed and no one thought of the subject of our sketch as among the living. TJie general surprise, tlierefore, may be readily imag- ined, on opening the fort-gates one morning, at fuiding before them the poor, emaciated form of a man, half-naked, and covered with wounds and running sores, and so torn the fleshless bones of his legs and thighs were exposed to view in places ! aiid how this astonishment was heighten- ed on recognizing the person of Glass in the illy defined lineaments of his countenance — the very man so long regarded as the inliabitant of another world ! A veritable ghost suddenly appearing upos the spot could not have occasioned greater wonder ! But, sensations of pity and commiseration quickly succeeded those of surprise, and the unhappy sufferer was conveyed witliin doors and received from the hands of friends that careful attention his situation so much re- quired. The story of his misfortunes was thrillingly interesting. When left by his companion for dead, he was in a state of unconsciousness, with scarce- ly the breath of life retained in his mangled body. But, the soft night- wind stanched his womids, and a slight sleep partially revived him from his death-like stupor. With the morning, the slight sensations of hunger he began to ex- perience were appeased from tlie raw flesh of the carcase at his side; and, thus strengthened, by a slow and tedious effort he was enabled to reach a near stream and quench his thirst. Still further revived, he again crawled to the carcase at the demands of appetite. In this manner he continued for three days, when the putrescent corse compelled him to abandon it. Then it was he commenced his tedious return to the fort, (some seventy miles distant,) which he performed during an interval of forty successive days ! The whole of this long stretch he crawled upon his hands and knees, — subsisting, for the meanwhile, only upon insects, such as chance tlirew in his way, but passing most of the time without one morsel with which to appease tlie gnawings of hunger or renew hia wasted strength. Yet, great as were his sufferings and intolerable as they may seem, he survived them all, and, by the kind attention of friends, soon recov- ered. He still lives in the town of Taos, New Mexico, and frequently re- peats to wondering^ Usteners the particulars of this terrific and painfm adventure One of our party, whose right hand was much disabled from the effect* of a. wound, now told his story. For several years succeeding his first arrival in the Rocky Mountains, A COMICAL INCIDENT. 161 he had permitted no opportunity of killing any one of the various species of bear, common to these regions, to pass unimproved. Never did he think of fearing them, and was always tJie last to retreat in case of a charge. When a bear appeared within any reasonable shooting distance of our hunter, it almost invariably fell a victim to his unerring aim.. But, e-e- long, this spirit of bold-daring proved the source of lasting regret to its possessor. On the occasion alluded to, having shot at one of these animals, contra ry to his usual good luck, he only woimdod it. Tiie bear in turn now became the assailant, but received the contents of two pistols before it had time to advance far. Our hunter at this crisis sprang to a neighboring pine, which he commenced climbing. His pursu- er, gaining tlie tree almost as soon, likewise began its ascent. Here occurred a struggle between them — the man to force hi.s way up- wards, and the bear to prevent him. The former, drawing his butcher- knife, thru.ft it at the eyes and nose of his antagonist Not fancying such poinled liints upon a delicate subject, Mr. Bruin caught hold of the hunter's hand, and, as an earnest of deep sensitiveness, crushed it between his teeth, — nor even then relinquished the gripe. Transferred to the left hand, the knife continued its work, till tlie sickening beast commenced sliding down- ward— dragging the poor hunter also to the ground. Both struck at the same time ; but, at that instant, the knife of the latter pierced the heart of his antagonist, and laid him dead at his feet. The unfortunate man, however, lost two of his fingers in the affray, and his hand was otherwise so much injured he has never since recovered its use. Another story related at the same time, though not possessing the deep and thrilling interest of the preceding ones, partakes a little of the ludircous, and will doubtless amuse the reader. The narrator a while since formed one of a trapping party, with which he proceeded to tlie Utah countiy. While there, on a certain occasion, having set his traps over night, he returned to examine them the next morning, in quest of beaver, and, to his surprise, one of them was missing. After cautiously examining the premises, under the impression that some lurking Indians liad stolen his trap v/iLh its contents, he noticed the tracks of bears, near by, which served at once to unravel the whilom mystery of its disappearance. He ncv/ began to muse upon his loss, as, without the missing trap his set woul : be rendered incomplete, and, under present circumstances, v,he want of t.n tiling was more than the worth of it. While thus ruminating, & slight noise, among neighboring cherry-bushes and cottonwood, caught his ear, which sounded like some one beating with two sticks. This induced him to approach for the purpose of ascertaining tlie cause, when an opening revealed to view Mr. Bruin seated upon a log and hold- ing to his face tlie missing trap, tightly clasped to his fore-paw. The bear appeared to be regarding the strange instrument with close attention, as if to study into tlie principles of its construction ; — now gazing at it endwise, then bringing its side in close proximity to his eyes; tlien tiirning it over to examine the opposite one ; — now, he would essay >ts 14 • •«2 HUNTING CAMP. strength, and lightly taps it upon the log. But this is a painful operation^— le relinquishes it, and resumes his former grotesque movements. Watching this curious performance, the trapper could scarcely retain iis gravity, or master his fondness for the ludicrous sufficiently for the in- tended shot. He did, however, and the comedy was suddenly transformed »o a tragedy, by leaving its actor struggling in death. A light fall of snow during the last of our stay at Deer creek, rendered ihe ground quite muddy unci soft ; notwithstanding which we resumed our course early in the morning of the fourth day. Continuing on, a ride of thirty miles brought us to the place where the Oregon trail crosses the Platte ; and, after fording the river, we encamped upon the opposite side. The stream, at this point, is about three hundred yards from bank to bank, and, at tlie time of our crossing it, swimming deep for a small por- tion of ^he way. In ordinary stages, the water is but little over three feet deep, and the ford perfectly safe and practicable. Tlie partial melting of tiie mountain snows had increased the size and velocity of its cun'ent, and rendered our passage slightly dangerous and difficult. The bed appeared to be rocky, and in some places rough, — requiring much caution in crossing waggons, to prevent tfiem from overturning. On the third day following, we arrived at another remarkable canon, after travelling a distance of thirty-five or forty miles. Here, finding large numbers of mountain sheep, we were induced to remain a short time. Our course for most of tliis distance was confined to the valley of the Platte, on account of the greater supply of wood found upon its banks. Towards noon of the first day, we passed a point, called the " Red Buttes," at which the river cuts its way through a lofty ridge of hills. This passage left a considerable bank upon both sides, shut in by abrupt walls of red argillaceous sandstone, towering to the height of several hundred feet. The soil was generally a mixture of clay and sand, and, in some places, aflforded a reddish loam which appeared to be very rich. A short ride from the " Red Buttes " took us across a beautiful stream, with a broad bottom, well timbered with cottonwood. Large herds of bufJklo were continually in sight upon the whole route. Several miles previous to reaching the canon, ray notice was first attracted to the extraordinary size attained by the wild page ; it having merged its shrub* jke appearance into that of trees varying from five to ten feet in height and from twenty to twenty-five inches in circumference at the root. The magnificent dimensions of this herb are retained for a large extent of territory to tlie south and west of this vicinity. It is frequently made use of for fire-wood, and the prairies, in many places, are covered with Deautiful groves of it, — perfuming the atmosphere and revelling in peren aial verdure. The canon before referred to, is caused by the river passing through a diain of hils, for a reach of nearly half a mile. ••«•«, MOUNTAIN SHEEP. IW The cnrrent is here slmt in by banks of perpendicular rock, four or ffrt hundred feet liigh, which sometimes overhang it, and leave a narrow ipac* of scarcely two hundred feet for its bed. These consist principally of white cretaceous sandstone, soft and friable, and frequently present to view the appearance of regular mason-work. During our stay we succeeded in killing five mountain sheep. Some of ihese were very large and quite fat. The flesh of this animal is equal in flavor to that of buffalo. It is gener- ally in good order, tender and sweet, and slightly assimilates our common mutton in taste. The habits and appearance of mountain sheep resemble those of bo other animal. They select for their favorite habitation the rugged fastnesses of wild and inaccessible mountains. In the cold of winter, they descer.d to some of the numerous valleys that so beautifully diversify the scenerj' of these re- gions, where the verdure of spring so rarely fades ; and, as the warm sea- son advances, they commence their return towards the lofty snow- peaks, keeping even progress v/ith spring and fresh flowers along the mountain-sides. Theirs is a life of unbroken spring — beauty and grandeur are their dwelhng place, — and, 'mid the awe-inspiring sublimity of nature's works, is their home. They gambol upon the fearful verge of the steep cliff, or climb its perpendicular sides, bidding defiance to all pursuers. There, secure from enemies, they rear their young, and teach them to leap from crag to crag in mirthful gaiety, or traverse the dizzy heights in quest of the varied sweets of changeful spring. These animals are remarkably acute of sigiit, and quick of scent and hearing. The least noise or tainture of the air excites their attention and places them instantly upon the alert. Mounting upon some high rock, they will stand for hours in the same posture, gazing in the direction of the fancied danger. If fully satisfied of its reality, they abandon their position for another and a safer one, high among more rugged peaks, and often beyond the possibility of offensive approach. Their hue is so akin to that of the rocks which grace their range, they are with difficulty identified when standing motionless, and the hunter is constantly liable to mistake the one for the other. In size the mountain sheep is larger than the domestic animal of that name, and its general appearance is in every respect dissimilar — excepting the head and horns. The latter appendage, however, alike belongs to the male and female. The horns of the female are about six inches long, small, pointed, and somewhat flat, — but those of the male grow to an enor- mous size. I have frequently killed them having horns that measured two feet and a half or three feet in length, and from eighteen to nineteen inches in circunil'erence at the base. These ponderous members are of great service to their owner in descend- «ng the abrupt precipices, which his habits so often render necessary. In leaping from an elevation he uniformly strikes upon the curve of his horns, » la thus saves himself from the shock of a sudden and violent contussion. The color of these aninoals varies from a yellowish whito, to a dark 164 DEVIL'S GATE. brown, or even black. A strip of snowy whiteness extends from ham U ham, including the tail, which is short and tipped with black. Instead of wool, they are covered witli hair, which is shed annually Their cry is much Uke that of domestic sheep, and the same natural odor is common to both. It is extremely difficult to capture any of them alive, even while young, — and it is next to impossible to make them live and thrive in any other climate tlmn their own. Hence, the mountain sheep has never yet foun a place in our most extensive zoological culbctions. Remaining three days at this place, we were again en route, and, bear- ing to the right, passed over a ridge of rougli, rocky summits, and struck the valley of the Sweet Water. Continuing up the latter, a short ride brought us to the vicinity of a noted landmark of the country, known as Independence Rock, where we encamped. The soil of the river bottoms is good, but the adjoining prairies are sandy and somewhat sterile. The distance from this to the canon is not far fro'in twenty-three miles. Independence Rock is a solid and isolated mas^s of naked granite, situated about three hundred yards from the right bank of Llie Sweet Water. It covers an area of four or five acres, p^nd rises to a height of nearly three hun- dred feet. The general sliape is oval, with the exception of a slight depres- sion in its summit where a scanty soil supports a few shrubs and a solitary dwarf-pine. It derives its name from a party of Ainericans on their way to Oregon, under the lead of one Tharp, who celebrated the iburth of July at this place, — they being the first company of whites that ever made the jour- ney from the States, via South Pass. The surface is covered with the names of travellers, traders, trap- pers, and emigrants, engraven upon it in almost every pritcticable part, for the distance of many feet above its base, — but most prominent among them all is the word " Independence," inscribed by the patriotic band who first christened this lonely monument of nature in honor of Liberty's birthday. I went to the rock for the purpose of recording my name with the swollen catalogue of others traced upon its sides ; but, having glanced over the strange medley, I became disgusted, and, turning away, resolved, "If there remains no other mode of immortalizing myself, I will be content to descend to the grave ' unhonored and unsung.^ " The day following, a heavy fall of snow and sleet forced us to remain in camp, and the consequent muddiness of the route prolonged our stay ■till further. The vicinity aftbrded an abundance of game and a sufficiency of dry fuel it would, therefore, have been folly in us to care for wind or weather detracting as did either so little from our comfort. During this interval I rode into the prairie a short distance, in quest of game, and struck the river a few miles above camp, at a place where the s^'sam cuta its way through a high ridge of hills, fornung another caSoa RETURN ROTJTE. ICfi of three or four hundred yards in length and about forty broad, called th« Devil's Gate, as I afterwards ascertained. Its walls arose perpendicularly to a height of between four and five huiv dred feet, and consisted of trap rock, sandstone, and granite. Dismounting, I ascended to the summit, where a grand and picturesque scenery burst upon the view. Above, the broad valley of the Sweet Water stretched far away to the westward, bounded on either side by frowning mountain.-, that, towering to the height of fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, present their snowy summits in proud defiance of wind or storm, and laugh at the impotency of a summer's sun ; — on the south, shaking their piny tops in scornful derision ; and, on the north, with denuded crests of broken granite, chal- lenging the liglitnings of heaven and wooing, its loudest thunders ; — while further along, the clouds played in humble sportiveness around the base of the great chain dividing the waters of two oceans, nor dared ascend its dizzy heights to range amid eternal snow. Below, in silent grandeur, arose to view the grantic mass that responds to the day-dawn of a nation's existence, surmounted by its lone pine, and bearing upon its broad register the sculptured names of the audacious disturbers of its solitude ; and further yet, tlie parti-colored peaks of the Black Hills, now white with fresh-fallen snow, now darkened with clus- tering pines, seemed musing in modest retirement ; while far around, in every spot accessible to discriminating vision, dense herds of grazing buf- falo covered the prairie with their pall-like mantle of countless numbers. It was indeed a magnificent prospect, and needed only the garnishing hand of spring to render it at as enchanting in loveliness as it was iraprea- sive in wild sublimity. CHAPTER XV. Return route. — Oregon trail fVom Independence Rock through tlie South Paas.— Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. — Mountain Fowl.-- -Journey up Medicine Bow. — Dan^W»^~rf<>»i^J^.«i^^^SJ^IS^^ ^^ ■%<* LATIN. Invictum animi robur ostensit. Invincible of mind strength he displayed. Onuiia delicarum instrumetita e All of delicacies the intruments from castris ejecit. camp he cast. SIOUX. Tepe nea-tour toocta? Non amo nimiuni diligentes. Not I love overmuch the careful. Lodge your own where is it ? Mea warchce ranzarka nea-tour. 1 want gun your own. Kokepa warneche wecharclia ha Afraid nothing the man is. Minewarka appello warktashne ha Medicine-water [ say not good is, A mere glance at tiie foregoing will at once show the constructional similarity between the two ; and, to illustrate the proposition still farther, I nere subjoin yet other proofs of a more important relationship : SIOUX. LATIN. Appello, (pros, ind., 1st per. sing.; inf. appellare,) I declare, I ■proclaim. Bestia, a wild beast. Caeca, uncerlain, ambiguous, confu- sed, rash. Cogor, one who collects, brings togeth- er, compels, forces, or heaps up. Mea, (meus, a, um,) nf or belonging tome. Mena, a narrow sharp fish. Ne, (tills when affixed to a word or a sentence gives it a negative signi- fication,) no, not. Papae, rare, excellent, wonderful. Pater, father. Pes, the foot. Taurus, a bull. Tepor, warmth. Tuor, (tui, tutus sum,) to look, to see. Appello, I declare, I proclaim, I tell, I make known. Beta, a buffalo. Ceicha, bad, disorderly, unsound. Cogor, a maker of anything, a manur facturer, one who -produces a thing by an ingenious arrangement of materials. Mea, /, myself, me. Mena, a knife. Ne, (this word is used precisely the same as in Latin, and has a similar meaning,) not. Papa, meat, flesh used for food. Pater, fire. Pea, the foot. Tau, (or tah,) a bull. Tape, a lodge. Tula, (astonishment,) look! see there! I might pursue this comparison to a yet greater extent, were my know- ledge of Sioux sufiiciently full and critical for the task, (for I have a firm confidence that many other similarities might be pointed out, quite as glar- ing in their character as any of the above ;) but, enough, I trust, has al- ready been said to fortify the position so lart^ely warranted by the pre- mises, to wit: that in former ages the Romans maintained a foulhold upon the American continent, aad had intercourse with this nation, either by arms or by commerce. The argument drawn from the foregoing is still further strengthened, when we take info consideration the fact, that language is couHtantly vary- ing ui its form, and changing the meaning and pronunciation of its words, as time progresses. To exempUfy this more clearly and forcibly, let the reader compare tlie works of standard Englisii authors of the present day with those of the like not move than five hundred years since, and he will leadily acknowledge the palpable indications of progi'essive cliange. IM THI ROMANS U« JlMERICJL If 10 short an interval has produced a transformation so bold in a wiittei langvago, what might we look for in one spoken only ? But, an interval of three times five hundred years has passed since th« Romans and the Sioux held intercourse with each other, and we yet find the general structure of the two languages strikingly similar, and several of their words identical in meaning and pronunciation ! And, though th« latter observation fails in some cases, even this, so far from proving any- thing averse to the pusition before assumed, serves to strengthen it. The word 'pater, for instance, pronounced alike in both lanjruages, dif- fers in signification ; being used in the one to imply father, in the oiner fire. This apparent discrepancy of meaning may be explained in a few words. The Sioux are accust;Dmed to venerate the sun as one of the more especial manifestations of the Divine Essence, who is regarded as the FATHER or creator of all things; and it, being the great source of light and heat, is naturally looked upon as an immense body of fire. Thus, in the course of ages, the term became perverted in its meaning and applica- tion, and, instead of being used to express the sun, or Great Spirit, the fatlier of all, it now only implies tlie simple element of fire, an emanation from the sun. So in relation to the Latin word tepor, warinih, and the Sioux word tepe, a lodge. The lodge is employed in winter to retain tlie heat witliin itself, and exclude the cold air; nor is it wonderful that, in the progress of years, the term tepor, or tepe, should become the only one by wiiich a lodge is known. The word mena, is also pronounced tlie same in both, though different in its signification ; meaning, in Latin, a narrow sharp fish, and, in Sioux, R knife. In explanation of tliis, I would barely refer to the similarity of shape between a knife and a narrow sharp fish. The relationship disclosed between tJiese two languages is seemingly too close and significant to be attributed to n\ere chance or accident, and can be in no other way satisfactorily accounted for, tlian by admitting the correctness of tlie premises before quoted. But this position, curious as it may seem to some readers, and impreg- nable as it must doubtless prove, has otlier weapons to protect it at com- mand ; and, ere dismissing the subject, I will briffly notice some of them. It is by no means a conjecture of recent origin, tliat the ancient Romans did actually colonize portions of the American continent. The industri- ous researches of antiquarians have long since brought to light many items which prove and strengthen it, tliough none of them so tangible and obvi- ous as those previously noticed. Several obscure hints of the existence of extensive Roman colonies planted westward of the Pillars of Hercules, (doubtless alluding to the American continent,) liave been detected in the writings of ancient authors yet extant ; but still further proof is afiiirdod in the relics of temples, cities, roais, and fortified camps, long since discovered in Peru, JVIexico, and the United States, wJiicli strongly savor of Roman origin. The ancient works at Marietta, Ohio, have been regarded, by not a few, as the oftspring of Roman industry and military science, — and various other remains, tliat signalize tlie Mississippi valley, point quite plainly to this ■fMion for a pareutajfe. But a proof, still more conclusive than any ,yet ad- |^'>^^W^^^V»^^N>%^^»^^^^^^^ wa EMBARK. IW dnced, is affonled by the discovery of a genuine Roman coin, in the State of Missouri, several years since. CrtJtiug aU these corroborative circumstances in connection, the fact that Roman colonies did exist, to some extent, upon this continent in padt ages, must be regarded as placed beyond successful controversy. CHAPTER XVII. Singular exhibition of natural affection.— Embark for the State*.— Scarcity of i visions and consequent hardship and suffering. — Extraordinary daring of woItm.— DifTicuItiea of navigation. — Novel diet.— Fishing. — A fish story, and another t* match it— A bull story.— Hard aground and dismal situation. — Extreme exposure.-— Cold, hungry, and wet.— Again afloat.— Re-supply of provisions.— Camp on fire.~ A picture of Platte navigation.— Country north of river.— Adventure viath a bull.— ■ Indian benevolence. — Summary of hardships and deprivations. — Abandon voyage. Soon after oui return, one of the hunters came in from a short excursion followed by a buflalo calf, which appeared as tame and docile as if always accustomed to the presence of man. This incident first brought to my knowledge a remarkable peculiarity in the nature of these animals, — viz : the strength of affection existing between the mother and her offspring. The buffalo will never desert her calf, except in cases of imminent danger, and then, never for a long time ; — she is certain to return promptly in search of it, even at the hazard of her own life. The calf, on the other hand, exhibits an equal, or rather superior, love for its mother. If she, to whom he owes his birth, falls a prey to the relentless hunter, he deserts her not, but lingers near her lifeless carcase, till the butcher-knife performs its office, and the reeking flesh bolades the pack-horse; — nor then, even, does he leave her. As the honored relics are borne away, he not unfrequently follows on, mournfully, regardless of aught else, as if saying, " Where thou goest let me go, and now thou art dead, I would live no longer." There is some- thing touchingly beautiful in such exhibitions of natural affection on the part of dumb brutes. May 1th. Availing ourselves of a slight rise of water, we embarked ob our meditated voyage to the States. The boat was freighted with some sixty packs* of robes, and provisioni for four weeks. A barge belonging to another company, also in readiness, started with us, and we all flattered ourselves with the hope of a speedy and pleasant trip. The two boats numbered a united crew of eleven men, — mine consia^ ing of five, and that of our consort counted six. 186 NOT TO BE ENVIED. Slipping cable, we glided midway of the stream, and gave a parting salute to the friends who lined tlie shore, accompanied by a loud hurra and waving of hats, deeply responded to by them, — and even tears coursed their way a down the dusky visages of our voyageurs, whan mindfid of the fate separating tiiem — perhaps forever ! The crews now struck up a merry song, while the dripping oars, as they ■pumed the crystal waters, responded their time in measured strokes. As we passed swiftly along and were fist receding from within hailing distance of the Fort, an old moiaitaineer, who stood gazing upon us, ex- claimed, " Ah, boys ; you can smg now, but your tune will be altered ere- long !" This strange announcement, though a riddle at the time of its utterance, soon began to more than verify itself, and often did we repeat the remark, " Well, sure enough, our tune has changed." Moving aloiig prettily during the day — sometimes floating with the cur- rent then again plying oars, — we reached tiie moutli of Horse creek; and, passing on a short distance, lay to for the night. The day following we again pushed off; but., after proceeding ten or twelve raiJes, the water became so shallow, ws were compelled to lay by to await a further rise, and struck camp in a small grove of cottonwood upon the right bank of the Platte, a ;-rliort distance above Scott's BlutF. Here we remained for some two weeks. The crew of our consort being poorly supplied with provisions, we divided our own with them, and, at ilie expiration of a few days, were left entirely destitute. From this on, we were dependeiit solely upon such game as chance threw in our way, — sometimes starving for two or three days, and then feasting for a like interval, upon the products of successful hunting. To us was a tedious lot, — there being no game in the country, save per- chance a few straggling bulls, and they rarely within less dist .nee than ten or twelve miles. Our hunting excursions often led furtlior than that, and when we were so fortunate as to kill, the proceeds were borne upon our Dacks to camp. We became so accustomed lo packiui;- in tliis manner, it was thought no extia burthen for an individual to carry upwards of a hundred pounds of fresh meat at a single load, some ten or twelve successive miles, over an open, sandy prairie, and beneath the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun. So far from regarding it a task, we esteemed it a pleasure, and were glad to appease the cravings of appetite even at so small a sacrifice of comfort and convenience. The reason for the scarcity of all kinds of game in the vicinity of the river at this time, was tiie recent burning of the prairie upon both sides, for many miles back, leaving not even tlie vestige of vegetation for the •ubsistence of any graminivorous animals. This we found to be the case nearly the entire distance to the forks. During the latter part of our stay at this camp, it rained almost inces- santly ; we also encountered a severe snow storm. The winds were usually high, and frequently blew with hurricane-vio' l«ae«. FISH STORIES. 187 ^<»^»M^^Mi.^ ■^/VKji»^>^^^%i''-a>^F»<» • A pack of liungry wolves, attracted by the scent of camp, were out regular nocturnal visitors, and proved a constant source of annoyance. Oi one occasion they carried ofl'a bake-kottJe to a distance of several hunth-ed yards ; — at another time, they took away a tin-pan, which we never after- wards recovered ; — and, stranger yet, one niglit these piratical pests stole a fur cap from oft" ray head while I was sleeping, and in the morning, after a diligent search, no trace of it could be found. The river having sliglitly risen, we again loosed cable, and, after toiling all day, and tugging with might and main, by hand-spikes and levers, — twisting, screwing, and lifting, now in water up to our necks, aitd now on dry Siind-bars, we succeeded in dragging, or rather carrying, our craft for a distance of about five miles, and again lay oy for four succeeding days to await a still further ri.se. Upon the opposite side of the river was a bald-eagle's nest, with two half- grown fledgelings. One of our party, ascending the tree, captured the young ones, and we had a fine meal from their carcases. A wood-duck'a nest, containing some twelve eggs, near by, afTorded a seasonable repast, — and, in hunting for game, we came upon the nest of a wild goot=e, as well as those of numerous ravens among the neighboring cottonwoods and wil- lows, which we subjected to sucii forced contributions as appetite demanded. A portion of the interval was employed in fidiing, but with poor success, the fish of the Platte being nearly all of them small, and not very plentiful even, at that. An old Franco-Canadian, of our crew, here favored us with, perhaps, « little tlie biggest fish stoiy of any told at the present day. He had been down the Missouri on several occasions in boats coimected with the fur trade. On one of these voyages, while in the act of reaching over the boat-side for a drink of water, he dropped hia cup, which imme- diately sank to the bottom of the river and was lost. Three years afterwards he again passed the same place, with hooks and fines attached to the boat-stern for the purpose of catching fish as he gUded along. A large cat-fish, attracted by the tempting bait borne upon the hook, greedily swallowed it, and, in a trice, found himnelf translated to a new and strange element. The creature was so heavy, it took two men to pull him into the boat, while iiis gigantic proportions astonished all beholders. But the most surprising thing was revealed on opening him ; — there, anugly stowed away in one corner of the monster's capacious maw, repo- eed the identical cup our voyageur had lost, three years before, with lii» name and the date marked upon it ! " Pooh ! Gumbo," said an old sailor, " I can beat such stories as thiat, a] day. " Why, fellow, on my last trip from Liverpool to New York, a shark followed the ship for a long time, picking up sucli bits of bread and meat as were thrown into the sea. ' Our steward was a very careless fellow, and, in shaking the tabid- cloth, he would frequently drop overboard the knives and forks and epoona. and recoived from the captain several fiiogginga on that account. He wm 188 PULLETS IN A nrUL »ven accased of stealing them, but strongly protested his innocence of the latter charge. " Among our passengers was an old whaleman, who, being very expert \n the use of the harpoon, took it into his head one day to victimize the shark. After several ineffectual attempts, he finally succeeded in forcing tii"? instrument tlirough the monster's vitals, and drew the lifeless carcase alongside. "The piratical cruiser was so thundering big, it took eight men with tackles to raise it on board ; — it must have weighed at least sixteen hun- dred pounds ! The body of the greedy creature was then laid upon deck and on opening it all were astonished ! What do you think was founds Gumbo ?'^ " Saere sharp ! Certes me tmk dey fine de spoon, de fork an de knife ' Him shark no follow do ship for nottin." " Well, boys, what do you all suppose was found ?" " Indeed, we could'nt say." " Guess," " The knives and spoons, of coui-se.' " You are wrong, to a man." " What, in tlie name of reason, could it have been ? Do tell — we give it up." " Hang me, if you aint a bright set of fellows ! — Can't guess a tiling so easy ? Why, if I must tell you — 'twas guts, — only guts — aotliing in 1 le world but guis .'" " liook here, Jack," said one of the listeners, advancing towards him hai f 1 hand, " you can take this. We'll be quite likely to remember hereafter ' lat fish generally carry their guts inside !" The old Frenchman looked rather crest-fallen at the curious manner in ' fhich his extraordinary fish story had b>eeii matched, — but felt little dis- ; osed to yield his laurels witliout an effort to retrieve them, — so, caUing to ; id his recollections of the marvellous, he again commenced. Several years ago, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, r ur hero and another man were sent expresses to a distant post It was ■'inter; and they travelled on foot, depending for daily subsistence upon such game as chance brought in their way. Their course lay through an open and clieerless prairie, covered with snow, and the jouiney occupied sjearly a mouth. Having been en mute some five or six days, their ammunition began to fail in the item of lead, — and only two bullets were left. Their condition now became extremely desperate, as there was no way of procuring a re-supply, — and anticipated starvation stared them in the face. Determined to eat as long as the means of subsistence remained, their last balls were shot away in killing a buffalo bull. After furnishing them- selves from his carcase with a large supply of meat for present and future use, our hero proceeded to cut a few locks of hair from off the creature's bead, for the purpose of stuffing his moccasins. " Bor Dieu ! Vat you tink me fine ? You no can tell all day ! Me DO a«k you guess. Bon Dieu ! c'ctre admirable. Me fine forty l^las, ir HOW WE SUFFERED. 189 ha head. Me get 'era out Sacre tonnerre ! den me had him siifficient Is poodre and la iallaa for de route ! No go hungry une leetil bit !" On the fifth day subsequent, we again launched forth into the streami and after a series of most extraordinary exertions, (being obliged to lighten our boat several times, by carrying its loading on shore, and reloading aa often, thus to enable us to lift it over sand-bars,) we succeeded in getting it ■f^rso three miles, and finally became safely moored in the middle of the liver, trom which it was impossible to extricate ourselves either by going backwards, forwards, or sidewise — with or without a cargo. Here we remained for three days, and experienced, during the interval, a continuous fall of rain and sleet, wliich rendered the weather dismal and our own situation disagreeable in the extreme. A cache of hquor hanng been made, fifteen or twenty miles distant, by a trader connected with our consort, a month or two previous, unforbid- ding as was the weather, the crew could not rest content until the hidden treasure was among them. Improving the opportunity presented by a slight suspension of the storm, one morning two of them started to procure it. Soon after it commenced snowing and raining, accompanied by a fierce, cutting wind and all the withering bleakness of a winter's blast. Still keeping on, however, they obtained the c&.che, and returned with ii towards the boat. But night shut in upon them by the way, and a thrice dreary night it was. Being too drunk to navigate, they lost tlieir course and were forced to camp in the open prairie, without wood or aught else of which to build a fire, or even a robe to cover or a rock to shelter them from the chill wind and peltings of the pitiless storm. Half-frozen with cold and wet to the skin, they lay upon the muddy ground and passed the interval, not in sleep, but in a state of drunken Btupor, produced by inordinate draughts upon the contents of their keg. On the next monnng they reached the boat, — a beautiful looking couple, as might well be supposed ! Covered with mud from head to foot, their clothes were wringing wet, and their faces bloated and swollen almost to twice their natural size. So complete was the transformation, they were scarcely recognizable as the same persons. But, regardless of hardship and suffering, they stuck to the liquor-keg and brought it with them as proof of their triumph. And now commenced a scene of drunken revelry, which, despite my efibrts to prevent it, soon communicated itself to both crews, and continued without intermission till the stock on hand was exhausted. The lack of a fire by which to warm ourselves, contributed materially to the misery of our present condition ; there being no wood procurable for that purpose within five or six miles of either shore, and having none on board, we were compelled to endure the dreary mterval as best we could. But another evil came pressing upon our already heavy load through the entire exhaustion of provisions, and the last of our stay wajB madi twic« forlorn by cold and Wing. 190 PICTURE or THE PLATTB. The gloomy reality of this situation may be thus briefly summed up ;— we were fa^t aground in the middle of a river, three-fourths of a rnile from either sliore, coufined to the narrow limits of a few feet, exposed to the merciless peltinga of a chill storm of rain aiid sleet, with only a tliia lodge skin to shelter us, without fire to warm or dry ourselves by, and, worse tlian all, destitute of the means of appeasing the gnawings of hun- ger. But, forbidding as the picture may seem, it proved only the commence- ment of a long series of suiFering aud deprivation, more intensely dread- ful in its nature, that was yet held in reserve for us. On the forenoon of the fourth day the storm abated, and, favored with a slight rise of water, by dirt of extraordinary effort we finally succeeded in getting afloat, aud gained the right shore after pulling our craft over sand- bars for a distance of two miles. All hands now tinned out in search of game, one of whom returned, towards night with an antelope, providing us with a needful supply of food for the time being. The next day, forcing oar crafl onward for six or eight miles, we brought to upon tlie left shore, where, after a short excursion among the hills, two other antelope were brought in, v/liich furnished us with a fur- ther supply of provisions. The day tbllowing we continued our voyage till towards noon, when a high wind compelled us again to lay by under the ke of a small island. Here, toward3 night, having spread our robes near the camp fire, while all hands were busy at the boat, a sudden gust of wind bore the sparks among the dry grass, and in an instant the whole island was one sheet of flame ! robes, blankets, and all, were almost entirely destroyed, notwith- standing our prompt efibrts to sa\'e them. Continuing on, the next morning we forced our boat, or rather carried it, down stream for about fifteen miles, — wading tlie river for nearly the whole distance. Our mode of voyaging was pretty much the same, each day of ita con tinuance. Sailing was out of the question. Not unfrequently we were obliged to imload five or six times in the course of a few hour?, in order to lift the boat over high sand-bars,— carrying its cargo- upon our b:icks through the water a half-r^'le or snore, to some dry place of deposit for the mean time ; then returning it in the hke tiresome manner, — now in water up to our arm-pits, — then scarcely enough to cover the sand of the river bed. As for a channel there was none, or rather, there were so many we were at a continual loss which to choose. Now, gliding along meirily for a mile or two, we are brought to a halt by the water scattering over a broad bed, and find ourselves snugly '^pocketed," with no other means of extrication than by backing out ; then, wading agtiinst a swift current, we retrace our steps for a like distance, itnd try another chute, perhaps with no better success ; — then, again, con- veying our landing to the nearest point of laud, by means of hand-spikee kad levers, (requiring an exercise of the utmost strength,) we force ev HAKD FATI. ]•! empty craft over the shoals, and again load it, perhaps, to re-act the same scene in a brief interval. Sometimes we were obliged to travel (for such navigation as this was tenfold worse than travelling) four of five miles to make one mile headway. By crossing and re-crossing a river varying in width from one to two miles — first advancing, then retreating ; now taking to the right, then to the left ; now transverse, and then oblique, we wasted our time, strength, and pa- tience, in labor to little or no purpuse. No one, unless practically experi- enced, can have a correct idea of the beauties of such a voyage. Towards night, attracted by the appearance of a couple of bulls among the sand-hills, we brought to upon the left shore, and succeeded in kilhng one of them. A high wind the day following kept us encamped and ailbrded another opportunity for hunting. Improving the occasion to explore the country northward, and obtain, if possible, some correct conception of its general character, a jaunt of four or five miles, over the bottom of rich alluvial soil skirting the river, ushered me into a high rolling prairie, partaking of the mixed nature of the garden and desert. The hills, in many places, were piles of sand or sun-baked clay, with scarcely a shrub or spire of grass to hide their nude deformity, while the space between them sported a rich soil and liLxuriant vegetation, and was clothed in the verdure and loveliness of spring, and adorned with blushing wild-flowers in full bloom. Further on were yet higher summits, surmounted by pines and cedars, raising their heads in stately grandeur far above the sweet valleys at their feet. Taken together, the scenery \vas not only romantic and picturesque, but bewitching in its beauty and repulsive in its deformity. The prevailing rock was a dark, ferruginous sandstone, and argillaceous limestone, interspersed witli conglomerates of various kinds. Proceeding to a distance of about fifteen miles from the river, in hopes of finding game, I encountered nothing save a solitary band of wild horses, that fled across the sand-hills with the fleetness of the wind on my appear- ance, after which I returned to the boat much fatigued from the excursion Our other hunters had also returned ; but neither of them with better success than myself. The subsequent morning we again renewed our voyage. Soon after, an old bull presenting himself upon the river bank, we landed, and one of the crew approached him from the water-edge. The old fellow, unconscious of the danger which threatened, permitted th? hunter to advance till within three or four yards of him. The sharp crack of a rifle-shot first awoke him to a sense of his situation, when, reeling, n« plunged headlong from the steep bank into the river. Our marksman, ii an effort to dodge the falling beast, tumbled backwards into swimming wa ter — lost his gun, and came very near being drowned. The bull made halt at a sand-bar, near by, and received nineteen ihota ip his carcase before he could be dispatched. IM 1MF08SIBLC TO PROCEED. ^^^''*V^^^'^*'*^*^^'^^^'"** When killed, his hams were found half eaten by wolves, and hii wlioto body otherwise so badly mangled we left it unbutchered. In the afternoon, having pursued our way eight or ten miles, we lay by for the night. A high wind and rain during the three succeeding days prevented furthar progress, and in the interval our provisions became again exhausted. While here, observing two Indians in tlie distance, running buflalo, I took tliree men and started to meet them. On coming up, we found an old Indian with his son engaged in butchering. Announcing the object of my visit to be the procurement of meat, they listened without a reply, but coa- tinued their operations,— laying the selections in two separate heaps. When finished, the old man led up his horse, and, pointmg to an assorted pile, told me it was mine, and the animal also should be at my service to convey it to camp. , . .„ u His village, he remarked, was a long distance over tlie hills, on the watch for Pawnees, and though in a directly opposite course from us, he loved the white man and would give him meat and a horse to carry it. Accepting the offer of the generous-hearted savage, I took the heavy- laden horse and returned to the boat,— the owner following to regain his beast. When arrived, he hinted at no remumeration for his kmdness, and mounting his horse, would have left for his village. Where will you fmd among civilized people men thus generous and obliging ? Such cases are indeed rare. The savage here proved himself of more noble principles than nineteen-twentietlis of his enlightened and christianized bretliren, whose religion teaclies them to love their neighbor as themselves, and do to others as they would like to be done unto! Unwilling that such disinterested kindness should go unrewarded, I made L'le old man some trifling presents, which he accepted with great pleasure, and, pressing his hand to hia breast, exclaimed : " Chanta-ma warstaello !" (ray heart is good !) and, shaldng hands with the company, put whip to his horse and was soon out of sight. It is useless to notice the particular progress of each day, or to state how many times we unloaded in the interim— how often we crossed the river, oi how far we carried oar boat by main strength ; these tlungs have been already laid before the reader sufficienUy to give him some faint idea of the intolerable hardships and sufferings we were compelled to undergo, bach day was but a repetition of the toils and struggles of the preceding one. Neither would it be interesting to state the especial half-day, day, or suc- cessive days we went witliout eating, meanwhile ; suffice it to say, the mominT of tJie iOth of June found us at the mouth of a small creek upon the right shore, about two hundred miles below the Fort,-having been thirtv-five days en harquette, and without eating for full one third ot that time' The expected spring rise had failed, and the river was very low and stili falling, so that there was no possible chance of conveying our cargo to the States, as tlie most difficult part of the voyage lay yet before us. 1 ac- cordingly abandoned all thoughts of the latter, and adopted such other ar- rangements as my judgment suggested upon the premises. 198 CHAPTER XVIII. flimtini^ excursion. — Thirst more painful than hunger. — Geological olwenratioiii — Mournful casualty. — Sad scene of sepulture. — Melancholy night. — Voyage in an empty boat.— Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff.— Plover creek. Cficne Grove. — Thou-sand Islands. — Abandon boat. — Exploring company. — A horrible situ- ation.— Agony to torment. — Pawnee village. — Exemplary benevolence of an Indian chief.— ]>Iiserable fourth ol July. — Four days starvation. — Arrival at Council BluS! — Proceed to Independence. For two days preceding we had been without eating, and our first effort was to procure a re-supply of provisions. Both crews started out with their rifles in pursuit of game, though not the foot-print of any living crea- ture appeared to excite even the faintest hope of success. Still, however, we kept on, determinr-d not to despair so long as the use of legs remained to us. Having travelled some fifteen miles, chance threw in our way a doe-elk with her fawn, which the unerring aim of a rifle speedily laid dead before us. Soon as opened, the liver disappeared at the demands of voracious ap- petites, and next to it the marrow bones and kidneys. The process of cooking was then commenced over a fire of hois de vache, which was continued till each stomacli was abundantly satisfied. But, here another enemy assumed the place of hunger, and one far more painful in its nature. There was not a drop of water to allay our thirst short of the river, fifteen miles distant, — over an open sand-prairie and beneath the scorching rays of a vertical sun. I can endure hunger for many days in succession without experiencing any very painful sensations, — I can lie down and forget it in the sweet un- consciousness of sleep, or feast my imagination upon the rich-spread lablea of dream.s ; — but not so with thirst. It cannot be forgotten, sleeping or waking, while existence is retained. It will make itself known and tielt ! It will parch your tongue and bum your tiiroat, despite your utmost endeavors to thrust it from memory ! Each one shouldering his burden from the carcase, we took up our line of inarch for the boat, where, arriving in four or five hours subsequently, we quenched our burning thirst in tlie water of the thrice welcome stream. The country, travelled over during t'lis excursion, for the first ten oi twelve miles, was a level plain, presenting a thin vegetable mould with • luxuriant growth of grass and herbage, upon a substratum of sand am' gravel. The remainder of our route led through a ridgo of hills, many of then) naked, others clothed with grass and ornamented with pines ; — between the himuli were many beautiful vallons, gorgeously decked with wild-flowers in full bloom, and arrayed in mantles of living green ; while thick clusters of iruit-bearing trees and shrubs attested the general fecundity and lent tlieii •acbantment to the scene. X7 IW MOURNFUL CASUALTY. Beyond this a gentle acclivity, that led to the high prairies, spread before the beholder a wilderness of verdure, vnthout one moving object to relieve itfl cheerless monotony. The boats were unloaded on our return and their contents placed in a compact pile upon shore, over which were spread two thicknesses of lodge- skin, to protect it from tlie weather. Other necessary arrangements were soon completed. Two men being selected to remain with the robes, two were dispatched to the Fort, while the remainder with myself were to make our way to the States, if possible, in an empty boat. Everything was put in order for departure the next morning, and a gloomy feeling pervaded each mind as the hour approached that was to separate a band so closely united by mutual sufferings, toil, and depriva- tion. Those selected to accompany me were congratulating themselves on the prospect of soon reaching the termination of their arduous and eventful expedition, among the friends and acquaintances of other days ; and none were more happy in the anticipation of this hoped for finale, than was a lively French youth, named Prudom. Notwithstanding the general tendency of circumstances was to produce feehngs of melancholy, his voice rang loud in aiuiouncing the varied plans of amusement and pleasure, that were to be reahzed upon his arrival at home. For this day, so far at least, he had been the petit garqon of the company ; and, it was frequently remarked, as his quaint expressions and sallies of wit burst upon the ear, " What in the world is the matter with Prudom ? His good nature and kindness of disposition had won the esteem of all acquainted with him, while his cheerfulness and fortitude at all tinies con- tributed much to render tolerable the dreariness of our forlorn condition. A little before night, the company indulged in a general cleansing, ac- companied by a shave and change of clothes. Prudom was among the number, for whom an intimate friend officiated as barber ; — the operation finished, he jokingly remarked : " Well, Tom, I suppose this is the last time you'll ever shave me !" Little did the poor fellow think how soon his words were to be verified. Seizing his rifle he stepped on board the boat, and, stooping to lay it by, exclaimed, " Here's the game !" ^ The words were scarcely uttered, when the gun-lock, coming in sudden contact with the boat-side, discharged the piece and shot ulm through the heart ! He staggered, faltering forth " Mon Dieu !" and fell dead at my feet !" A thrill of horror sti-uck every nerve on witnessing this tragical event. If we had previously felt melancholy, we now felt dismal and wobegone. He, who five minutes since was the very soul of cheerfulness and mirth, now lay a lifeless corpse ! How true it is, we " know not what a day or an hour may bring forth." The sun was just setting as we commenced digging a grave in which te deposite all that remained of our friend and companion. HOW WE FARED. 196 The task was a sad one, .and as tedious as it was Borrowful. We had neither shovel nor pick-axe, and were compelled to dig it with our butcher knives and hands. The pale-moon, new-risen, shed her sombre light over tlie dismal realms o" Solitude, and an u/.ervening cloud cast its pall -like shaddow upon the scene of sepulture, as we laid low the corse in mother dust. No shroud covered — no useless coffin enclosed it, — a grave was the only gift witliin the power of friendship to bestow ! A thin coating of eartli succeeded by a layer of stones and drift-wood, and that again by another eartli-coat, was its covering, — then, the mournful task was done, — a tear dropt to the mem- ory of poor Prudom, and his body left to slumber m its narrow prison-house, till the sound of the last trump shall wake the dead to judgment.* That night to us was a more painful one than any we had passed. A feehng of superstitious awe, mingled with thrilling sensations of grief and thoughts of our own miserable condition, occupied each mind and usurped ihe soothing powers of sleep. The dolesome howlings of the prairie-woif, and hootinga of the midnight owl, borne upon the listening air, kept sad condolence with our musings, and gave increased momen- tum to the pressure that crushed our spirits. Who could sleep, amid such scenes and surrounded by such circumstances ? The rising sun of the morrow brought the hour of ■eparation, and ex- hibited upon every face the same downcast look, prefiguring the inward- workings of a mind aocurbed in the melancholy of its own thoughts. My party consisted of six, Pome of whom were selected from the crew of our consort. We all embarked in one boat, taking with us a sraail quantity of robes, (our own individual property,) and a portion of the pro- visions at camp. Our voyage for a few days succeeding, was performed without much difficulty, except in the article of food — for, from this onward, till wa finally reached the settlements, (an interval of twenty-eight days,) wo were without eating full one half of the time ! Proceeding some thirty miles, we overtook the American Fur Com- pany's barges, three in number, the crews of which were struggling on in vain effort to reach the States. We glided past them with a loua huzza, and rallied the poor, toiling voyageurs, upon the futility of their exertions. Five or six days subsequently, we were, in turn, overtaken by them ; — they, like ourselves, abandoning all hope of accomplishing the objecta of their voyage, had left their freight at Ash creek, under guard — and, from that on, became our compagnons de voyage. The only game previous to reaching the forks of the Platte — a distance of some two hundred miles — was now and then an antelope, with a few •traggling deer. Our subsistence, meanwhile, was principally upon greens" and such roots as we had time and opportunity to gather. The country was pretty much of a uniform character, with that pre- viously described. The rich alluvion of the river bottom reposed upon a varied substratum of sand, marl, gravel, PJid clay. * On my return the ensuing fall, I learned that the body of the unfortunate youig nan had been diidntened by wolves and devoured. 196 ON f OOT. I noticed several varieties of days in the river banks exposed by the attrition of the water — of these were the white, red, black, yellow, blue, and green. The white clay is much used by the Indians in cleaning skins and robes ; an operation performed by mixing it with water till the compound as- sumes the color and about four times the consistency of milk, when it ia applied to the surface of the article in hand ; the robe or skin thus wash- ed, after being thoroughly dried in the sun, is rubbed until it becomes soft and pliable from friction, and the grosser particles of the preparation are loosened and removed. By this simple process skins assume a milky whiteness, and every spot of grease or dirt is made to disappear. All kinds of skin may be thus cleansed, and will readily attain an un- soiled purity, surpassing that originally possessed. Red, yellow, black, blue, or any other kind of clay, may be used for like purposes, and will readily impart to the cleansed articles their own color. In case a single application is insufficient, repeat the process for two or three times, and there can be no possible failure in the result, provid- ed the clay is pure and good. Some twenty miles above the Forks, we passed a ridge of rocky hills exhibiting layers of limestone and sandstone in bold escarpments, that jutting into the river from the right, formed a high embankment covered with pines and cedars, known as Cedar BiufF. At the upper side of this point stood the remains of an old Pawnee village, which had been deserted by its inhabitants immediately after the bloody battle between that nation and the Sioux, at the mouth of Ash creek. The bottom, for several miles above, is rarely excelled in fertility. The islands are generally timbered, but the river banks upon both sides are almost entirely destitute of trees of any kind. From Cedar Bluff, in about eight miles, we came to the mouth of a large and beautiful creek, forcing its way, with a clear and rapid current, from the high rolling prairies to the north. This presented the appear- ance of being skirted with broad and fertile bottoms, well supplied wit! timber among the hills. Though vested with some importance on ac count of its size and locality, it is as yet nameless — the abundance o/ plovers in its vicinity at the time of my passing, suggested the term " Plo ver creek" as a proper appellation. Five or six miles 'further on, we c^me to a large gTOve of cottonwo&i upon the right shore. Here, some five years since, a company of trade/dj while descending the Platte in boats loaded witli furs, made ciche of one hundred and sixty packs of robes, which they were compelled to leave on account of the low stage of the water. The luckless party, after enduring great hardships, arrived m the States ; but their cache was subsequently plundered by Pawnees. The confluence of the North and South Forks made but little perceptible idfference in the size of the river. From the junction, in five days' time we reached tlie vicinity of Grand Island, about two hundred and twenty feilea from the nearest white settlements. XXPLORme EXPEDITION. 197 The high prairie upon the north shore, between the above points, Ib gen eraliy sandy. The river presents numerous clusters of islands, most o' which are heavily timbered and clothed with luxuriant growths of vegeta- tion. The soil is of a deep, sandy loam, and well adapted to cultivatioa- I noticed upon them several choice wild flowers of rare beauty. We experienced great difiiculty in forcing our boats through a large group, called the " Thousand Islands," that thickly studded the river for some ten miles, and, before clearing them, found our passage completely blockaded. Having consumed an entire day in vain effort to proceed, we vera at length coaipelled to abandon the idea. The water was constantly mlling, and our condition hourly becoming worse. This forced upon us the deiTiier resort of performing the remainder of our arduous journey on foot. Accordingly, making c&che of the personal property with us, we sunk our barges in a deep hole near by, threw all extra clothing into the river, and, each selecting a robe witli as much meat as he could carry, we commenced our weary tramp. The property thus disposed of was of the value of several hundred dollars. Among other articles left in c&che, were arms and tools of various kinds. No one would now carry a gun, — as we were to pass through a section of country destitute of game, and, being obliged to travel with all possible despatch to avoid starvation, good policy prompted us to dispense with every unnecessary encumbrance. For myself, however, I was unwilling to re- linquish my rifle, and determined to take it with me. There were fourteen of us, including the coups de barquette of the Ameri- can Fur Company ; and, as we trudged along at a pace enfeebled by a series of cruel hardships, fatigue, and starvation, — ^with provisions and beds bound in close bundles and strapped to our backs, — half-naked, long-bearded, care- worn, and haggard, — we looked like the last remnants of hard times ! The 28tli of June dated the commencement of this last stage of our tire- some pilgrimage. Having travelled some ten or twelve miles, we espied a camp of whites a short distance in advance, and were observed by them almost at the same time. Our appearance created an evident consternation, — their horses were driven in with great speed, and their guns stripped ready for action, while our or five men, mounted upon fleet chargers, rode out to reconnoitre. On ascertaining the cause of their alarm to be only a handful of unarmed men, they ventured up, and were saluted with the cordiality of old acquain- tances, so rejoiced were we at the sight of anytliing savoruig of the endear- ments of home and civilization. The company proved one in the employ of the United States Government, under the command Lieut. J. C. Fremont, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, on an expedition for the exploration and survey of the country laying between the Missouri river and the mountains. The commandant seemed a gentleman of urbanity and intelligence, and poUtely furnished us with all tlie passing news of the day preceding his departure from the States. Our smokers and tobacco-chewers, who had been for sometime without the sina qua rum of the mountaineer, now procured a re-eupply for the indot gene* of their filthy aod uimatural taete. 17 • 198 mOIAN KiJNDN£S8. Leaving our new-found friends, we continued on for a few miles, ana halted a brief interval under the shade of a cottonwood grove. WhUe thus reclining upon the green grass, what was our surprise at seenig three In- dians, who appeared suddenly in our midst extending their hands to greeJ US ! They belonged to a war-party of Chyennes,— had been to the Pawneos, and were now on their return, with three horses captured from tlie enemy. Continuing our course, towards sundown I began to find my rifle rathei cumbersome, and, yieldmg to the advice of all hands, threw it away. Havhig travelled till late at night, we laid ourselves down m the trail for repose ;— the rausquetoes, however, together with the heat, were so annoying, sleep was impossible. I never in my life before was so tortured by these relentless persecutors. Their sting v/as far more tolerable to me than the unending hum of their music. To exterminate them was a hopeless task, for, at the death of one, fifty would coma to its fuueral,~and to submit quietly to theiv rapaciLy and be eaten up alive by such loving friends, was more than human flesh and blood could endure. For tliree hours I lay, sweltered by the heat and pierced by the hungry myriads that swarmed around, until my agony became so great it obtained the mastery of reason, and I was scarcely self-conscious whether a being of earth or an inhabitant of the realms of woe. In the height of my phrenzy I fancied four demons had hold of the ex- tremities of my robe, and were fiercely dragging me over a prairie of sharp rocks, that tore my flesh at every bound. The remainder of the party suf- fered equally witli myself, and none of them were permitted to close their eyes that night. June 29th. We started at early day, and pursued our journey till ten o'clock, which brought us to the foot of Grand Island,— a distance of sixty miles from the place of our adventure witli the Indians during the previous afternoon. Here we indulged in a slight repast, and, reclining upon the grass, enjoyed a few hours' sleep, despite the continued annoyance of mus- quetoes. On arousing to resume tlie painful march, our legs were found m a yer} unenviable plight, and almost refused to sustain the accustomed burthen. Our feet, also, (softened and made tender by the raoUifying effects ot the v^ater, to which they had been so long familiar, and, unused to the oSices now newly forced upon them,) were sore and swollen to a frightful size. From this on, our journey was most intensely painful. But, notwithstanding all, we were compelled to keep moving, though oui progress seemed more like the passage of Mahomet's " bridge of swords than aught else imaginable. July 2d. This morning our stock of provisions was entirely exhausted, and yet a long distance intervened between us and the settlements. Towards night, however, chance brought us in the way of a plentiful tupper, by our encountering the Pawnee village on its way ^ the buf- falo rau'-'e. We were entertained by the head chsef m . nospitable ■»aiuiar, who formshed us bountifully with boiled com and iflush; and f ART COMPAlfY. 1» W6 were also invited into several shanteea with the same kind in tendon. The Pawnee chief (Red Eagle, if my recollection serves me righd was a generous old fellow, aged some sixty years. His benevolence was truly exemplary, as his conduct well attested. My moccasins, be- ing much worn by long usage, exposed to the ground the bottoms of my feet. This was no sooner discovered by the noble-hearted old man, than he pulled off his own (a pair of new ones) and gav3 them to me! What white man would have done the like ? And this was done by tlie poor Indian, not from the expectation of reward, but through the promptings of an innate benevolence ! A small tin-cup, taken with me thus far, was the only return in my power to make. lieaving the village a little before sundown, we encamped for the night near the houses recently occupied by these Indians, after having travelled seven or eight miles. Their buildings are coniform, and con- structed of earth and timber, very similar to those of the Kansas tribe, described in a previous chapter. Several years ago, the Pawnees were a numerous and powerful na- tion, possessing an extensive territory, and occupying five large towns, viz: one upon the Republican branch of the Kansas river, one at the forks of the Platte, one south of the Arkansas near the Cumanche coun- try, one on Loup creek, and one some ninety miles above the mouth of tlie Platte. Theso several divisions were known by the terms of Pic, Mahah, Republican, Loup, and Grand Pawnees. The Riccarees, speaking the same language, may also be reckoned a fraction of this tribe. The five villages before named are now reduced to two, i.e. on Loup creek and above the mouth of the Platte. The whole number of the Pawnee nation, exclusive of the Riccarees, probably does not exceed six thousand souls. All of the western tribes being at war with them, their numerical strength is continually dimin- ishing. Slight advances have been made towards improving the condition of this nation, but, as yet, with little apparent success. A farmer, blacksmith, and schoolmaster are provided them under the patronage of tlie U. S. Govern- ment, and a missionary is also stationed among them by the American Board of Foreign Missions. They raise corn * and other vegetables, but their principal dependence for subsistence is upon the proceeds of hunting. Their general character is stamped with indolence, treachery and cowardice, for which they have become famous, not only among the whites, but also among their rude neighbors, — having thus attained the hatied of both. July 3i. This morning we parted company, and each of as tmdertook to make his way to Council Bluff according to the best of his ability. Being entirely destitute of food, it became us to urge our course with all possible dispatch. * I noticsd one cornfield, ne&r the village, that contained ditf fat mirpevaaoe tavored much of civilized af^cultur*. aw NOTES BY THE WAY, July 4th. Accompanied by two otliers, in an equally forlorn conditi<», the " glorious fourth " finds me plodding along, over an open prairie, be- neath the scorching rays of a summer's sun, unarmed, half-naked, with a shouldered pack, and not having had a morsel to eat for the past two days. It is now I think of the festal boards and scenes of good cheer so omni- present upon Freedom's birth-day in the land of my nativity ! Mine is a mode of celebrating Independence, that I care not ever again to obsen'e. On the 6th we reached the Ottoe mission and obtained food, after an ab- stinence of four successive days. Early in the morning of the 7th we arrived at Council Bluff on the Missouri, eight miles above the mouth of the Platte, aiid nearly four hun- dred above Fort Leavenworth. In the course of the day following our whole party came in, one after another— some of whom had become so weakened by hardship and deprivation they could scarcely move a dozen yards without stumbling! Having remained a few days at Council Bluff to recruit our strength, we Erocured canoes and descended the Missouri. The 21st inst. found me at [idependence. Mo., after an absence of nearly nine months, — having con- sumed seventy-five days upon my return voyage, and, in tlie meantime, ex- perienced a series of suffering and misfortunes seldom equalled and rarely surpassed. CHAPTER XIX. The country between the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort Leavenworth. — Leave Independence for the Mountains. — Meet Pawnees. — In- dian hospitality. — Journey up the South Fork Platte. — Fort Grove. — Beaver creek. — Bijou. — Chabonard's camp. — Country described. — Medicine Lodge. — The Chy ennes ; their character and history. — Arrive at Fort Lancaster. — Diflerent locaiitiea in its neighborhood. — Fatal Duel. — Ruins. The country travelled over from the Pawnee village to Council Bluff or Bellevieu, as more recently called) is generally possessed of a rich, clayey soil, which is well adapted to cultivation. Large quantities of timber skirt the streams, that include all the varie* ties found in the States. The landscape is beautifully undulating, and, at the time of our passing it, was covered with a luxuriant growth of vege- tation, (the grass being frequently waist high,) and ornamented by rare specimens of wild flowers. The Pawmeea, Ottoes, and Omahas possess the whole extent of this tei> ritory, which embraces much valuable land within its limits. That north of the river and adjacent to Bellevieu is ovraed by the Pottowatomies, who lUio claim to the boundary between Iowa and Missouri. uinrsPECTiD KNcouimni. sos ^^^»Al%^^^^^^^^■^<^<^^^^^w^^^<%^^*■ The Kickapoos, lowas, Sacs, and Foxes occimy the country south of the MiBsouri, from the mouth of the Platte to Fort Leavenworth. All of this interval possesses a fertile soil, is well watered and passably well timbered. A more particular description of it, however, does not prop- erly come within the limits of this work. Upon my arrival at Independence, affairs were in a rather confused state. Tmies were hard and all kmds of; business at their lowest ebb. The com- pany for which I had acted had become bankrupt, and left me a loser to no mconsiderable amount. But, notwithstanding this unfavorable aspect of things, I decided upon returning to the Mountains for the purpose of visit- mg the different regions adjacent to them. Acting upon this resolution, I expended the means at my immediate com- mand for the procurement of an outfit; — and the begmmng of August saw me again en route, accompanied by two experienced mountaineers all of us mounted upon hardy mules and well provided for the journey before us. The first four or five days subsequent, our progress was much impeded by successive rams, that rendered the road muddy and ourselves uncom- fortable. We were necessitated to raft the Wakarousha, and the Kansas was BO swollen it was forded with great difficulty, — the water frequently covering the backs of our animals. From^ that onward we enjoyed pleasant weather and journeyed without further mterruption ; — nothing occurred worth note, till we reached the Fawnee range, near the head of Big Blue. One morning, while travelling along unconcernedly and at our leisure, having as yet observed notliing to excite our apprehensions, a Pawnee sud- denly made his appearance directly in front of us. Such a^ customer had we been aware of his proximity, would have been most caremlly avoided, m a place so dangerous as this ; but, as he had first discovered u?, it was now too late to give him the slip, and we accordingly permitted his approach, greeting him in a friendly manner. He immediately informed us that the whole country was full of his peo- ple returning froni their summer-hunt, and he invited us to accompany Hm to the village. This we dechned, being un\^^lling to trust either him or his people. Observing several other "shaved heads" hm-rjing towards us from over the adjoining hills, we struck camp and prepared for the expected rencoun- ter Upon coming near, however, they appeared friendh" and were most Aft™ 'JnaiTned. Again we were m-ged to visit the tillage. After waitmg an_ hoiu- or more, we resumed our com-se, still foUowed by the imwelcome Msitors. A ride of scarcely a half mile brought us to the top ot a hill, and, to our surprise, jjlaced us in the immediate precincts of the village, — too far advanced for a retreat. The entire population was instantly in motion, and came crowding to- wwds us upon every side. Pushmg boldly forward, we were received by the same kind-hearted old chief of whom I had occasion to speak in thi preceding chapter. On recogniang me, I was welcomed witii gi-eat cop- diahty, and we were forthwith conducted to his shantee and sumptuously entertained upon the choicest in his poBsesaion. ^ ^ 204 JOITRNEY UP SOOTH FORK PLATTK. Our camp-equipage and other articles were all safely disposed of, and nothing conducive to our pleasure or comfort was left unattended to. Dur- ing our entire stay, we were beset with invitations to feasts which were prepared expressly for us by these hospitable villagers, who appeared dis- pleased whenever we declined their acceptance. The old chief brought forward his little grandson to shake hands with us — remarking, that he would teach his children Uke himself to love the Americans. A small sack filled with papers was then laid before me for perusal. They consisted of recommendations, speaking in very flattering terms of the bearer. Red Eagle, and belauding his kindness and liberality. Most willingly would I have complied with liis request, and made "tJie paper talk " for him, but the means were not at hand. The kind-hearted old man presented us each a pair of moccasina and urged our stay till the next morning, — adding ; "Some of my men are bad, and my heart is sick for tliem. Should you go before sleep, they might follow and rob you. When the morrow's sun has newly risen above the prairie, they will have left their foot-prints in the homeward trail, and my white brotliers may pass unmolested. But, if you will not rest beneath the shade of the Red Eagle, wait till the day -king is low, then ride fast till the night is old, and thus may you avoid the evil ones who would injure you." This advice seemed so reasonable, we consented to remain till late in the afternoon, when, driving up our animals, we made preparations to start. Every article belonging to us was faithfully returned by the old man, who ordered for us a present of buifalo meat. Several large pieces were accordingly brought by different individuals, of excellent quality, and in quantity more than we could well carry. This was all a free gift, — no one even hinted at a compensation. Where will you find among civilized man generosity and hospitality equal to this? Willing to rev.ard such exemplary conduct, we presented the liberal donors with a small supply of sugar, cofiee, and tobacco ; and, to our host, we g-ave a knife and some other trifling articles, all of which he received with evident gratification. Bidding the noble chieftain adieu, we pursued our course in accordance with his direction, — travelling nearly all night. Early the next morning we struck the Platte, and, in the afternoon, reached the point at which myself and others had abandoned our boats. On visiting the cache made at that time, not a thin~ remained ; — it had been robbed by the Pawnees, in all probability, as the island was covered witli the tracks of men and horses. But what afl"orded still more conclusive evidence, was the site of a recent Pawnee encamp- ment within some four hundred yards of the place. The next morning brought us to the bufialo range, and our fare was on* of continued feasting from that onward. Three days subsequently we came to the forks of the Platte, and coa- tinned up the south branch, with the design of proceeding to New Mezic* by way of Fort Lancaster. MEETING AGAHf. 20» Here we entered a Btretch of territory not ag yet brought before the read er's notice. Passing on, a ride of between fifty and sixty miles brought us to a large grove of willows at the mouth of a sand-creek, where we remained the day following. The vicinity contained the relics of three or four Indian forts, con* etructed of logs, — one or two of which were in an almost entire state of preservation, and afforded a correct illustration of Indian military genius. Their forms were oval, and the roofage so complete, we were amply sheltered in one of them from a heavy shower which fell during our stay. From tliis point (properly denominated Fort Grove) to the forks, the country is rather sterile and rolling, with the exception of the river bottoms, which, as usual, are possessed of a rich soil and vary in width from one to five miles. There is scarcely a tree, worth naming, upon either bank of the river for the whole extent. The expanse lying to the northward is quite broken and hilly, with some few pines and ceda'-s at the heads of ravines. Previous to leaving Fort Grove I experienced an attack of the fever and ague, which recurred, at intervals of once in two days, until we reached Fort Lancaster. Resuming our journey, a ride of some ten miles brought us to the mouth of Pole creek, a large affluent of the right shore. This is a clear and handsome stream, running through a rich valley of considerable width. It* entire course affords but very little timber, and the prairie upon either sids IB generally sandy and barren. Journeying on about seventy-five miles further, we came to a large streato called la Foiicheii mix Castors, or Beaver Fork. This creek heads in the highlands between the Platte and Arkansas, and traces its course through a sandy country, varied by diminutive hills of clayey soil, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles. It presents manj beautiful bottoms of a rich vegetable mould, with here and there small clus. ters of timber. Some forty or fifty miles above Beaver creek, we crossed Bijou, anothei large affluent of the left shore. The water at the mouth of this stream was shallow, dispersing itself in several small channels, over a bed of gravel and quicksand, about four hundred yards wide, and enclosed by abnipt banks of clay and sand. For several miles above its junction with the Platte no timber appears ; but further on, many large groves relieve the eye, and invite the traveller to their shade, while broad meadows and rich bottoms, clothed with grass ao flowers, cheer the beholder and deliglit his fancy. Avg. ZOth. A ride of ten or fifteen miles, from this point, brought us toa camp of whites, in the em])loy of Bent and St. Vrain, occupying a smal! Island in the Platte. They were guarding a quantity of robes with which they had attempted to descend the river, but were unable to proceed fiuthfli on account of low water. I was much gratified at here meeting an old acquaintance, with wboSB f Wd passed a portion of the previous winter upon White river 18 20e MEDICINE LODGE. The camp was under the direction of a half-breed, named Chabonard, who proved to be a gentleman of superior information. He had acquired a claasic education and could converse quite fluently in German, Spanish, French, and English, as well as several Indian languages. His mind, also, was well stored with choice reading, and enriched by extensive travel and observation. Having visited most of the important places, both in Eng- land, France, and Germany, he knew how to turn his experience to good advantage- There was a quaint humor and shrewdness in his conversation, so garbed viath intelligence and perspicuity, that he at once insinuated himself into ehe good gi-aces of lieteners, and commanded their admiration and respect The country, between Fort Grove and Cabonard'g camp, with the excep» tion of the river bottoms, (which were quite fertile and occupied an area, upon both, banks, varying in width from one hundred yards to five miles,) is shghtly undulating, and presents two uniform characteristics, — one, a thin clayish loam upon a subtratum of sand and gravel, and the other a sandy surface, often entirely destitute of vegetation, save, perchance, a few scattering spires of coarse grass and a species of prickly burr. Various specimens of cadi are found in every direction, and prove a frequent source of vexation to the traveller. The landscape discloses a scene of drearj' sterility, — more to be accounted for by the dryness of the climate than any natural defect in the soil. The river upon both sides is nearly destitute of timber, and we were frequently compelled to use bois de vache for cooking purposes. There is also a scarcity of rock, — ^though, in the neighborhood of Bijou, I observed a kind of grayish sandstone, exposed to view in the beds of ravines ; and, directly opposite Chabonard's camp, the action of the waters had form.ed a steep wall, some thirty or forty feet high, which disclosed a large bed of sandstone and slate, with earthy limestone. A few miles above Beaver Fork, we obtained a distinct view of the main ridge of the Rocky Mountains with the snowj' summit of Long's Peak distant some sixty or sixty-five miles. They appeared like a pile of dark clouds just rising from the verge of the horizon, and could be identified only by tlieir uniform and stationary position. From the time of first entering the buffalo range till we reached Bijou creek, our entu-e course was beset with dense masses of tliose animals, which covered the river bottoms and prairies in all directions, far as the eye could reach. Our usual practice was to kill one every day, and select from its carcase the choice portions so well known and highly appreciated by mountaineers j and, caUing to aid the varied modes of cooking peculiar to hunters, surely never did epicures fare better than we. A few miles above Beaver creek we passed the site of a recent Indian en- campment, where was yet standing the frame- work of a medicine lodge, erected by the Chyeunes and Arapahos for tlie performance of their reh- gious rites and ceremonies. This was made of light poles, describing an imphitheatre with a diameter of some fifty feet. In form it was much hke the pavilion of a circus, and of sufficient dimensions to contain eevera^ Mudrad individu&lji. SKETCH OF THE CHYENNES. 207 I ehall take occasion in subsequent pages to speak of mediniDe-inakiii^ and would refer the reader to tiiat part for an explanation of the pecoliaf purposes for which tlie medicine lodge is constructed. The river at Chabonard's camp is reduced fully one half in width, com- pared with its size at the forks. The current is also clearer and more rapid. Its banks and islands are much better timbered, and its gener^ ap- pearance indicates an approach to the mountains. About noon we bade farewell to our new friends, by wftom we had been iindly entertained, and resumed our journey, accompanied by my whilom companion and two others, — increasing our number to six. Towards sundown, coming to a small village of Chyennes, we passed the night in the lodge of a chief, called the Tall Soldier. Our host treated aa with much civihty, but in this he appeared actuated only by selfish motives, and with the sole view of extorting a more tlian fourfold equivalent by way of presents. We were also continually harassed by beggars from all quarters, and gladly availed ourselves of the first dawn of the ensuing morning to pass on, and thus escape their importunities. The Chyennes at this time occupy a portion of the Arapaho lands, bor^ dering upon the South Fork and its affluents. Some six or eight years since, they inhabited the country in the viciiuty of the Chyenne and White rivers and the North Fork of Platte, from whence they were driven by the hostile incursions of the Sioux, who now hold in quiet possession the whole of that territory. This tribe, in general appearance, dress, and habits, assimilates most of the mountain and prairie Indians, with the single exception, perhaps, of be- ing meaner than any other. They are certainly more saucy as beggar* and impudent and daring as thieves, tlian any other I ever became acquainted with. Formerly they were a much better people, but the contaminating effects of intercourse with the whites have made a disposition, naturally bad, im- measurably worse. Contrary to Indian character in general, they are treacherous and unworthy of trust, at all times and in all places. Their history contains a small speck of romance, which may not prove altogether uninteresting to the curious. The Chyeimes, at the present time, number about four hundred lodges, and claim some eight hundred warriors. The tribe is composed of two divisions, viz : the Chyennes and Gros Ventres, — both speaking the same language and practising the same desigimtion of nationality, shown ia sundry transverse scars upon tlie left arm. Neither of these divisions know their origin, but tell the foUowing ctuioiia itory of their first intercourse with each other. Many years since, the Chyennes, while travelling from a north country, discovered the Gros Ventres, who were also upon a journey. As asoal among strange tribes, both parties rushed to the attack, and a bloody battl* would undoubtedly have been the result, had it not been stayed by the ma- jul diicovery of an identity of language. Upon this, hostihty at one* gaf« SOS A BBOK£N COMPACT. dbce to frienckhip, and the two partios negotiated an immediate anion Since then they have beeu considered as one nation. What ia most singular in this occurrence, neither the Gros Ventres nof Chyennee could trace any previous connection or intercourae with each other, or knowledge of their individual existence. This tribe has made no advances in civilization, and most probably will make none for many years to come. Their roving and unsettled babiti prove an obstacle, almost insuperable, to any efforts that may be undertap ken for tlieir improvemeut. They are generally accounted friendly to the whites, but friendshio like this is essentially of a dangerous character. Continuing our journey, the evening of Sept. 2d brought us to Fort Lancaster, after an interval of tweuty-six days, during which we liad travelled not far from seven hundred and twenty miles. Our route from Chabonard's camp to this point, for the most part, led along the valley of ihe Platte, which resembled a garden in the splendor of its fields and the variety of its flowers, A ride of four or five miles took us across the drj* bed •>{ a large sand* creek, four or five hundred yards wide, known as the Kuyawa. The banks of this arvvyo are very steep and high, disclosing, now and tlien, spreads of beautiful bottom lands with occasional groves of cott in.vix>d. At this seap son of the year its waters are lost in the quicksand aj>d gravel. We also passed the mouths of tiiree large affluents of the right bank of Platte, sevemlly known as Crow creek, Cache a la Poudre, and Thomp* eon's Fork. These creeks rise in the adjoining mountains, and, with the exception of Crow creek, trace their way witli clear and rapid currents, from two to three feet deep and sixty feet wide, over beds of sand and pebbles. Their valleys are bread, rich, and for the most part well timbered. Timber increases in quantity, upon the Platte and its affluents, as the traveller appronciies the mountains, and the soil gradually loses that with ering aridity so characteristic of the grand prairie. Tw eive miles below Fort Lancaster we passed Fort George, a large trading post kept up by Bent aad St. Vrain. Its size rather exceeds that of Fort Platte, preriously described; it is built, however, after the same faiiiuon, — as, in fact, are all the regiilar trading posts in the country. At this time, fifteen or twenty men were stationed there, under the command of Mr. Marsaiina St. Vrain. Six miles further on, we came to a recently deserted ^t, which bad been occupied the previous winter and summer by Messrs Lock and Ran* dolph. One of our party, a whilom engage of this company, informed me of its principals' becoming bankrupt, through mismanagement and losses of varioua kinds; — he stated, 5iat, in May last, their entire " cavalliard," consisting ol forty-five head of horses and mules, had been stolen by the Sioux Indians ; this, in connection with other bad luck — together with the depreciated value of fora and peltries, the failure of a boat-load of robes to reach the States, the urgent demands of creditors, &c., had caused them to evaciutt their post and quit the country. HUENS. 209 A short distance above tliis, at a point of timber occupying a large bot- tom, had been the scene of a fatal duel the previous winter, between two whites by the names of Herring and Beer. On my tirst arrival in the country 1 had become acquainted witli both of the actors, and felt much in- terested in the details of the bloody aflair as related by one present at the time of its unfortunate occurrence. The dilBcuhy between them related to a Mexican woman from Taos, — tlie wife of Herring. Backed by a number of personal friends, and anxious to obtain the lady from her husband, the former had provoked a quarrel and used very insult- ing language to his antagonist. This was received with little or no reply but six>n, however, resulted in a challenge which was promptly accepted. The preliminaries were arranged in confident expectation of killing Her- ring, who was considered a poor marksman, especially at an oti-haud shot. The weapons selected by Beer were rilies, the distance tifty yards, the man- ner off-hand, and the time of shooting between the word lire and three. Tiie two met, attended by their friends, at the time and place agreed upon, — at the word "^re," the ball of Beer's ritie was buried in a Cottonwood a few inches above the head of his antagonist, — at the word "//ire«" the con- tents of Herring's ritle found lodgement in tlie body of Beer, who fell and expired in a few minutes. Between this point and Fort Lancaster, I noticed the ruins of anotiiej trading post, much dilapidated in appearance, and nearly levelled with the ground. Passing along, I could not refrain from musing upon the frequent deeds of mischief and iniquity that had originated within tliem, in connection willi the infamous liquor tralRc. Ah, thought I, were ihose bricks possessed of tongueS; full many a tale of horror and guilt would tliey unfold, to stand the listener's " hair on end," and make his blood run cold ! But, lost in ■ilent unconsciousness, they refuse to speak the white man's shame ! 18* 810 CHAPTER XX. Old acquaintances. — Lidian murders. — Jlode of travelling in a dangerous coiintrf.— Merican traders. — Summary way of teaching manners. — Fort Lancaster and sur- rounding country. — Resume journey. — Cherry creek and connecting observations.— Sketch of the Ai-apahos, their country, character, &c. — Camp of free traders.— Blackfoot camp. — Dangherty's creek. — Observations^ relative to the Divide. — Mex ican cupidit^r.— Strange visitors. — The lone travellers.— Arrive at the Arkansas. — General remarks.— Curious specimens of cacti — Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natura. Soda-fountain. — Indian superstition. — Enchanting scenery. — Extraordinary wall cf Bandstone. At Fort Lancaster I was gratified by meeting with several acquaintances of the previous winter, two of whom had been comrades during a part of my unfortunate and adventurous voyage down tlie Platte. My appearance created no little surprise and pleasure, on all sides. Queries of various kinds were industriously plied, relative to the latest news ft'om the States, and also in reference to the miseries and hardships undergone during the interval of my absence. The dangers of our mode of travelling were freely expatiated upon, and numerous instances of recent Indian hostilities cited to prove our " fool daring." Among the latter was an outrage perpetrated by the Chyennes, only two weeks previous, in (he murder of three white men, — one of whom was the oldest trapper in the mountains, and had been for some time engaged in tlie fur trade. The murderers had the impudence to ask a scalp-feast from the com- mandant of the Fort, according to custom in case of overcoming their ene- mies in battle I The hair, however, being recognized as that of a white man, no feast was given. When accused of tlie murder, they apologized by saying the poor fellow was suffering greatly at the time from recent woimds, and they had killed him out of pity ! In our mode of travelling, we always used due precaution to avoid sur- prise and attack. This is easily done, while among buffalo, by noticing their movements, — as these animals invariably flee across *he wind upon the approach of man, and neither Indians nor whites can traverse theii range without setting the whole cou.ntry in motion. We observed another plan of caution by frequently ascending some emi nence, and scanning the wide expanse, far and near. Our general practice was to travel till night, and camp without fire in the open prairie, tlius precluding the possibility of being discovered, even though in the immediate vicinity of Indians. A party of three or four men can pass through a dangerous countiy and avoid coming in contact with enemies, provided they exercise a needful vigi- huiee much more easily than one of larger numbers. With a largs eom{MU^ MEXICANS IN THE MOUNTAINS. 311 too mnch dependence is reposed in each other, which soon results in uidi- vidual carelessness and neglect. Added to this, they are apt to rely upon theirnumsrical strength, and, forgetting this simple truism, that "caution is the parent of safety," rush hito danger when they are least a/, are of it. It Uiu.^ -""'nirs that large parties are more liable to surprise than smaller ones, ana nu.^ <'<-«Quently sufler losses from ttie depredations of prowling 6116 lilies* On thp contrary, where but rm^ ,„ ^^„^ individuals are travelling together, tney truet exclusively to their own per^, • -j^^^^^ ^^^^^ .^^.^^ ^^ every suspicious appearance, they seldom fad tS^^^^^j. ^j^^ /ggence of danger without exposing themselves, and may avoid it t»y . *i,ijf,iv retreat or change of course. ^ There is little risk in an open prairie, m case an enemy is first seen by the party wishing to shun his presence ; — they have only to manoeuvre in such a manner as to elude observation, (a thing not often difficult,) and ail is safe. In subsequent travels ttirough dangerous countries I have always acted upon these suggestions, and never yet found them to fail. Some twelve or fifteen Mexicans were at this time present at the Fort. They constituted a trading party from Taos, escorting a caravan of pack- horses and mules, laden with flour, corn, bread, beans, onions, dried pumpkin, salt, and pepper, to barter for robes, skins, furs, meat, moccasins, bows and arrows, ammunition, guns, coflee, calico, cloth, tobacCo, and old clothes, which were to compose their return freight. A worse looking set was here presented than that previously described in the second chapter of this volume. Some of them were as black as veritable negroes, and needed only the curly hair, thick lips, and flattened nose, to define the genuine Congo in appearance. A more miserable look- ing gang of filthy half-naked, ragainuflins, 1 never before witnessed. Their cargoes had already been disposed of at various prices, according to circumstances. Flour and meal were sold at from four to six dollars per fanega, (one hundred and twenty pounds,) and other articles at like prices. Their first askiri^ price was at the rate of twenty dollars yier fanega; but an affray which occurred with a small party of Americans, immediately upon their arrival, had made these produce merchants much more reasonable in their demands. The particulars of the aSkir were ratlier disgraceful to both parties. The Americans, anxious to purchase a quantity of flour, offered to take it at the asking price, provided the JMe.ucans would receive their pay in robes of a rather indifferent quality. This the latter refused and a dispute arose, when insulting language was used on both sides, coupled witli threats ol mutual i.^jury. The Mexicans retired a short distance and camped, — soon after tlie Americans, four \n number, rushed among them and drove otFtlieir entire cai)a^£a7rf, containing twenty head of horses and rnules. The Mexicans seizett 'iieir arms for resistance, and the comrnandanle advancing demanded of ihc nearest assailant : " Que quiere, cabeltero ?" (what do you want, sir ?) "Yoteoga lo caballardo, — porque dicirme esta ?" (I have your horsee,- wky do y«u aak ?) ^^* FORT LANCASTER, WTC. " Carraho, Americana !" said liie Mexican, levelliuo- his oTin at the speaker In an instant a pistol-shot from the latter laid him^rostrate,— th-- baU en- tering lus chest near the heart. No further resistance was offered, and the assailants retired mth their booty. The next morning, however, they returned, and the two p'--^^ com- promised the matter by certain conciliatorv aiTangemp"*=) >vhich resulted in the Americans giving up the captured anWr'-,