SB IC-NRLF OF THE UNIVERSITY OF Price One Kelt mafceur ILLUSTRATED fcv H. HONYWOODD'OMBflA/N. Ho* S«< of t*[* NATIONAL LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL, BAZAAR BUILDINGS, W.C. "Sheffield Made Haft and Blade " THE Hardy Patent Pick Co., Ltd., Sheffield. These Marks are what you should find on your GARDEN TOOLS when you ask for the best—" HARDY'S." These Tools are supplied through Traders, and if your own Dealer has not previously supplied them we will send him Samples Carriage Paid. The Hardy Patent Pick Co. Ltd., SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND. TO Cultivate Roses IN PERFECTION USE CLAY'S FERTILIZER OR I Plant Food WHICH PRODUCES ALL FLOWERS, FRUITS, VEGETABLES AND FOLIAGE IN THE HIGHEST PERFECTION AND ABUNDANCE. IT IS SAFE, QUICK AND LASTING. It is used by Government and Local Authorities, and by Horticulturists throughout the World. v AV* Qj^ \S* Sol<1 Evefywhere in 6oes three times as far as most Insecticides. A complete Success. Try it and satisfy yourself. You will not be disappointed. Pint 1/6 ; Quart 2/6 ; Half-Gall. 4/«; Gall. 7/6. The "ABOL" Syringe, With Patent Spray Nozzle, Patent Drip Preventer or Patent Protector, etc. PRICES :-From 8/6 to 14/6. By Post 4d. extra. BENDS 1/6 each. May be had through all Seedsmen and Florists, or on receipt of remittance direct from the SOLE PROPRIETORS— E. A. WHITE, LTD., Manufacturers, Belting, Paddoch Wood, KENT. BENTLEY'S COMPOUND QUASSIA EXTRACT. The perfect Insecticide for destroying Aphis and Mildew on roses. -Not the slightest risk to foliage. Each gallon makes from So to 100 gallons ready for use. 10 gals. 3s. 5d. per gallon ; 5 gals. 3s. 6d. per gallon, in five-gallon drums, charged halt cost, 9d., not returnable ; 1 gal. 4s. ; £ gal. 2s. 4d. ; i quart Is. 5d. Carriage paid on ?s. 6d. orders and upwards. Sole Manufacturers: — JOSEPH BENTLEY, LIMITED, Chemical Works, Barrow-on-H umber, HULL. f i 99 Reg. Trade Mark. The Ideal Garden and Greenhouse Fertiliser. Magnificent Roses, Sweet Peas, and other flowers assured by using "SHEFA." Odourless. A is. 6d. tin sufficient for 5ogals. preparation, or use i teaspoonful to a gallon. Contains over 9% Nitrogen, over 30^6 Sol. Phosphates, and over 25% Potash. Coupons for Cash Prizes and Pictures. Tins 1/6, 2/6, and 5/- Post Free for remittance with order. VALROFF & CO., Horsclydown, Tower Bridge, LONDON. EACH I/ NET. TEN . EXCELLENT BOOKS. EACH NET. Each, by post, Is. 2d. Home Gardening in all its Branches— Flower, Fruit, and Vegetable. Second Edition. Illustrated. Carnation Culture in the Open Ground and in Pots. Third Edition. Illustrated. Chrysanthemum Culture for Exhibition and the Market. Third Edition. Illustrated. Popular Bulb Culture, both in the Open and Under Glass. Second Edition. Fully Illustrated. Begonia. Culture, for Amateurs and Pro- fessionals, Under Glass and in the Open Air. Third Edition. Illustrated. Grape Growing. A thoroughly Practical Book on Successful Vine Culture. Illustrated. JB Mushroom Culture, in Houses, Sheds, Cellars, and Pots, on Shelves, and on Pas- ture Lands. Second Edition. Illustrated. Toma.to Culture. A Practical and Complete Manual. Third Edition. Illustrated. Cucumber Culture, including Melons, Vegetable Marrows, and Gourds. Second Edition. Illustrated. Vegetable Culture. With Lists of the Best Varieties of Each Sort. Illustrated. London: L. UPCOTT GILL, Drury Lane, W.C. All made in wood. FOR ROSES. Trellises, Arches, Pergolas, Pillars, Umbrellas, &c., &c. Artistic in design, strong in construction, and moderate in price. Price lists free. WALTERS & CO., 1 6, Water Lane, Great Tower Street, London, E.G. ACME LABELS. SAMPLES AND PRICE LISTS FREE of all Nurserymen and Seedsmen, or direct from SOLE MANUFACTURER — JOHN F»INCHES, 3, Crown Buildings, Crown Street, CAMBERWELL, S.E. WEEDY LAWNS, TENNIS COURTS, BOWLING GREENS, &c. Transformed into a perfect sward of beautiful rich-coloured grass by a dressing of " CLIMAX " LAWN SAND, which, if sprinkled over the grass, possesses the remarkable property of destroying Moss, Daisies, PUntains, and other weeds on Lawns, Tennis Courts, Bowling and Golf Greens, at same time promoting the growth of the finer grasses to such an extent that the spaces previously occupied by the disfiguring weeds are q lickly covered by a perfect sward of fine, close growing grass, of good colour, which will retain its freshness under adverse conditions of continuous use and drought. Whan to apply.— "CLIMAX" LAWN SAND may be applied at almost any season of the year, selecting a dry morning with a p ospect of 24 to 48 hours of settled weather. Should the weather be very hot and dry, copious waterings should be given at the expiration of 48 hours, The Effect of an application is apparent within a few hours, the weeds blacken and die, but the grass quickly recovers its colour, and young growths appear on the bare spots previously occupied by the weeds. Quantity Required —28 Ibs, will dress 100 square yards (i.e., 10 yards by 10 yards) where weeds are plentiful; but where there are only few weeds, the abovj quantity will dress 150 square yards. Prices (Carriage Paid).— Packages free ; sample tin I/- ; 7 Ibs. 2> ; 14 Ibs. 3,6 ; 28 Ibs. 6/- ; 56 Ibs. ll/- ; i cwt. 20/- ; 5 cwt. 90/- ; 10 cwt. 170/- ; 20 cwt. £16 10s. EVERY WEED DESTROYED, ™V°*RRIAOE ROOT AND BRANCH. ROADS, &c., By a. Single Application of CLIMAX WEED KILLER. BY ITS USE hoeing and weeding are dispensed with, and the suiface remains in a firm and br'ght condition. Although poisonous, there is no danger attending its use when used according to the directions printed on each package. It doe-; not burn, stain, nor smell offensively. It has been used extensively during the past fifteen years by surveyors, Local Government Boards, estate agents, gar.leners, and others, in every county in the United Kingdom. Liquid Weed Killer. — One gall, makes 51 galls., sufficient for 160 ti 200 square yards. PRICES (carriage paid) : J-gall. 2,3 (tin free) ; i gall 3 6 (drum 9d.| ; 2 galls. 7 - (drum 1/6) ; 3 galls. 1O/- (drum 2S.I ; 4 galls. 12,6 (drum 2,6) : 5 galls. 15/- (drum 2/6) ; 10 galls. 27/6 (drum s/-) ; 20 galls. 55/- (cask 5'-); 40 galls. 100/- (cask s/-). Cost of drums will be refunded wlun returned, carriage paid, in good order and condition. Powder Weed Killer.— Packed in air-tight tins. Mixes readily in cold water without heat or fumes. Equal in effectiveness to the liquid. Convenient to store and handle, it will keep for an indefin'te period. Measure to make small quantity enclosed with eac'i order. Prices (Carriage Paid). Tins free. No. 1 Tin makes 25 galls., to dress 80 to 100 yards, 23 ; 2 tins 3/9 ; 12 tins 21'-. No. 2 Tin makes 100 galls., to dress 320 to 400 square yards, 7/- ; 2 tins 14/- ; 5 tins 32 6 ; 10 tins 62/3 ; 20 tins 120/-. ANTS, SLUGS, WIREWORM, WOODLICE, Destroyed, "ALPHOL," AND THE GROWTH OF ALL PLANTS GREATLY IMPROVED BY ONE OR TWO DRESSINGS OF A valuable manure, which, in addition to promoting the growth of all plants, will also destroy every variety of insect in the soil. It is a dry, non-poisonous powder which may be used with safety at any season. It should be freely used during autumn, winter, and spring digging to destroy wireworm and the larva; of other insects in the soil. FOR SLUGS, ANTS, AND WOODLICE, a light sprinkling on the surface is quite sufficient, but Lir wireworm, ee.worm, millipedes, and other pests of a similar nature, it should be dug into the soil. When miking up heaps of potting soil, manure or leaf mould, an occasional sprinkling as the work proceeds will destroy worms and other insects, and also increase its manurial value. By a free use of " ALPHOL," ground which previously teemed with insect life will grow splendid crops. Quantity Required. — On medium and heavy land 28 Ibs. will dress 250 square yar Is or 5 cwt. will dress an acre ; on light sandy land, :$ per cent, more will be required ; for compost and manure heaps 7 to 14 Ibs. to each ton. Pricas (Carriage Paid).— 7 Ibs. 2/- ; 14 Ibs. 3/- ; 28 Ibs. 5/- ; 56 Ibs. 8,6 ; i cwt. 15 - ; 5 cwt. 75/- ; 10 cwt, £7 ; 20 cwt. £13 10s. (Sample Tin Is., postage 4d.) Any Enquiry welcomed by the Manufacturers— THE BOUNDARY CHEMICAL CO., Ltd., CRANMER STREET, LIVERPOOL. Roses for Amateurs. o* FLOWER * KITCHEN GARDEN BARR'S SEED GUIDE (free) Contains a Select List of the Best Seeds for securing a supply of Vegetables "The Year Round," and a full Descriptive List of the most beautiful Annuals and Perennials for keeping the Flower Garden and Greenhouse always gay. It is full of Practical Hints on the culture of Vegetables and Flowers valuable to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF SUPERIOR VEGETABLE SEEDS. 5/6, 7/9, 12/6, 2 1/-, 42/-f 93/- to I05/-. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS. 2/6, 5/6, 7/6, 10/6, IS/-, 21/-, 30/-, 42/-, 63/-. Full particu1 ars on application. BEAUTIFUL HARDY QOLD /V\ED4L r\ THE MOST LOVELY OF- ALL SPRINQ pLQWERS burr's Daffodils were awarded the only Gold Medal at the Royal Horticultural Societys' First Great Daffodil Conference, 1884; Premier Prize, 1894; Gold Medal, 1896; Gold Medal, 1899; Two Gold Medals, First Prize, and £10 los. Challenge Cup, 1901; Two Gold Medals, 1902 ; Gold Medal, 1903; Gold Medal, 1904; Gold Medal, 1905; Two Gold Medals, 1906 ; and Two Gold Medals, 1907. Barr's ai/- Amateur's Collection of Daffodils contains 6 Bulbs each of 26 high-class Daffodils, suitable for the Greenhouse or Select Flower Border. Barr's 2i/- "Woodland" Collection of Daffodils contains 500 Bulbs in 20 fine showy varieties, suitable for naturalizing in grass, shrubberies, etc. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF BULBS. FOR INDOORS AND OUTDOORS. Barr's 2i/- "Greenhouse" Collection contains 500 Spring-flowering Bulbs, of finest quality. Barr's 2i/- Flower Garden Collection contains 600 Spring and Summer-flowering Bulbs, all decorative. Barr's ai/= "Woodland" Collection contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to naturalise in Woodlands, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc. For full particulars of the above and other Collections, see Barr's Bulb Catalogue. BARR & SONS, 11, 12, & 13 King St.,Covent Garden, LONDON. Nurseries :-Surbiton, Surrey. Visitors invited. Roses for Amateurs : A Practical Guide to the Selection and Cultivation of the Best Roses for Exhibition or Garden Decoration. ILLUSTRATED. BY THE LATE REV. H. H. D'OMBRAIN, V.M.H., Hon. Sec. of the National Rose Society ; Editor of the " Rosarians' Year Book," &c. THIRD EDITION, Revised and much Enlarged, with a Chapter on Insects and Fungi Injurious to Roses, By W. D. DRURY, F.E.S., Author of "Insects Injurious to Fruit," " Home Gardening," " Popular Bulb Culture," &c. LONDON : L. UPCOTT GILL, BAZAAR BUILDINGS, DRURY LANE, W.C. NEW YORK : CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 153-157, FIFTH AVENUE. 1908. BARNARDS, LIMITED. Every Requisite for Rose Growers. No. 672. The most tasteful arrangement possible for a bed of Rambler Roses, comprising five Pillars, and connecting rods for bed, i3ft. 6in. diameter. Cash price - - J53 15s. Od. The Suffield Rose Pillar. 8ft. high, i2in. face ... 14/6 loft. ,, lain. ,, ... I7/-. New Frames for Con- volvulus, Nasturtiums, Peas, etc. 48m. high, izin. dia. 4/- 36in. ,, i2in. ,, 3/9. Canopy Frames for Weeping Roses, sft. gin. high, 3ft. 6in. diameter 1O/6 each complete. Makes a charming arrangement for such favourites as Dorothy Perkins, Queen Alexandra, &c., &c., Carnage Paid on 40j- nett value. Norfolk Iron Works, Norwich. Publisher's Preface. SINCE the last edition of this popular manual was issued its venerable author has passed away. For some time prior to that untoward event, however, the cultivation of the Rose had advanced by leaps and bounds, and it was realised that a revised edition was required. It was hoped that the task of producing this would have devolved upon him who had done so much towards bringing the Rose to the state of perfection which it now enjoys. This, however, was not to be, for increasing years, with their attendant infirmities, prevented the reverend gentleman from under- taking a task for which, alike from his practical acquaint- ance with the subject and from the office he filled in connection with the National Rose Society (of which he was the founder), he was so eminently qualified. It was, therefore, necessary to seek other assistance, with the result that the work has been undertaken by a gentleman of large experience as a practical and successful Rose-grower, and one who has paid an unusual amount of attention to the diseases and insects that afflict the Rose. Still, every respect has been paid to the sound teachings of the author whose name is perpetuated by the work, and wherever possible they have been retained. Such being the case, it is hoped that the manual, in its new form, will appeal to an even wider section of the garden-loving public than its much-appreciated predecessor. CANARY GUANO The Best Fertilizer. Tins 6d.. I/-, and 2/6 each. Bags 4/6, 7/6. 12/6. and 20/- each. GARDO TheBest Insecticide. Tins I/-. 1/6. 2/6. and 4/6 each. Drums 7/6. 13/6. and 30/- each. articles are used all over tfie world, 'dftey given marvellous results, and are greatly favoured by leading exhibitors, amateur and professional. CANARY GUANO and GARDO Are sold by Seedsmen, Nurserymen, and Florists. A FREE "TWENTIETH CENTURY COPY OF GARDENING," and full particulars of Canary Guano and Gardo are sent gratis and post free upon application to the Manufacturers — The Chemical Union, Ltd, IPSWIOH. CONTENTS. PAGE INTRODUCTORY . i ROSE STOCKS . • . 3 CULTIVATION 8 PROPAGATION . . ; 15 PLANTING — AFTER-CULTURE 25 TEAS, HYBRID TEAS, AND NOISETTES OUTDOORS . 37 ROSES UNDER GLASS . . . ... . .46 EXHIBITING ROSES 57 VARIETIES FOR DECORATION AND EXHIBITION . . .65 GARDEN ROSES . 76 ROSES FOR SPECIFIC PURPOSES 78 BRIEF CLASSIFICATION OF GARDEN ROSES ... 83 ROSE FRIENDS AND FOES . . . . . .90 ANIMAL 91 VEGETABLE 108 FOR FASCINATING HARDY FLOWERS For Town or Country Gardens, for Beds, Borders, Shrubberies, etc., apply to KELWAY & SON, who offer the largest and finest collections of every kind, grown in their extensive Nurseries. Do not be content with the old worn-out varieties, but plant Kelway's celebrated improved forms also. They will increase the beauty of your garden 100 per cent. KELWAY'S MANUAL of HORTICULTURE, The best descriptive garden catalogue published, will be sent for Is. 6d. post free (deducted from first order) ; it is very beautifully illustrated, and contains valu- able information concerning Hardy Perennial Gar- dening, etc. KELWAY & SON, XKe Royal Horticulturists, LAIXGPORT, SOMERSET. 2CC §old and Silver Medals, teondon, Paris, Q&ieaGo, St. Jsouis, Jtaly, Sdinburgd, Dublin, Manedester, etc., etc. Roses for Amateurs. Introductory. IN commencing this little work on the Rose, it may be advisable to say why it is undertaken in the face of the existence of so many excellent books on the subject, from Canon Hole's amusing and instructive book, and the very practical and monumental ones by Mr. William Paul and Foster Melliar, down to the sixpenny treatises on the same subject. The object aimed at is to write in a manner that may be useful to the thousands of persons, every year increasing in numbers, who love to grow the Rose for its own sake without any after-thought as to exhibition. Most of the books seem to have this latter as their main object ; the desire here will be to make it a secondary one (for no treatise on the Rose can be complete without it), and to consider especially owners of small gardens, who are oftentimes the most zealous and successful cultivators of any flower that they take in hand, but are too often left out in the cold by writers who seem never to imagine that there is such a thing as limitation of space or means. When alluding to the history of the Rose, there is not the slightest idea of taking readers back to ancient days, to give quotations from books that we have never read, or to affect a B 2 Hoses for Amateurs. folk-lore knowledge we do not possess. Anyone desirous of pursuing these subjects may have his wishes fully gratified so far as the former is concerned by reading " Ros Rosarum," by F. V. B., and as regards the latter, " Plant-Lore," by Folkard, in both of which they are exhaustively treated. What we have to do with more particularly here is the history of the Rose in our own days, and the causes which have contributed to its cultivation in these islands to an extent which has never been known before. When we recollect the position the Rose used to occupy in gardens, we are confronted with the remembrance of a large number of summer Roses in our gardens that were a blaze of beauty in June when Provence, Gallica, Moss, and other Roses of a similar character were those cultivated; when the Tea and Noisette were comparatively unknown ; and when, if any Roses were to be had later on, the China or old Monthly Rose was the source of supply. Later on, the Hybrid Per- petuals and Teas came to be known, and Standards were greatly in favour, and every year the Rose-man appeared with his bundle of stocks, to obtain which he had no doubt committed a considerable amount of trespass. An important factor in the present great popularity of the Rose was the establishment of the National Rose Society in 1876. At that time Rose exhibitions (which, after all, do most for the extension of the cultivation of tho flower) were at a low ebb. Many shows were of two days' duration, and the public had on the second day but a poor idea of what the Rose really is ; while the provincial shows were few, and small in extent. Thursday, yth December, 1876 (when, in a crowded room, in the midst of weather of a most depressing character, the founding of the National Rose Society was determined on), must ever be a memorable day in the history of the Rose. The main object of this Society was to encourage the cultivation of the flower, to promote national exhibitions of it in London and the provinces, and to dis- Rose Stocks. 3 countenance as far as possible two days' shows; and the impetus it gave to Rose-growing all are free to acknowledge. Each year since then the Society has held exhibitions, not only in London, but in such large provincial centres as Shef- field, Manchester, Southampton, Bath, Birmingham, and Darlington, and wherever they have been held they have stimulated the growth of the Rose, and induced many who had not hitherto attempted its cultivation to commence. The National Rose Society has likewise given a better knowledge of the flowers; has published instructions for cultivation, issued an elaborate and most carefully-illustrated catalogue of the best Roses, both for exhibition and for the garden, and has greatly encouraged a kindly intercourse between all lovers of the Rose, which has been productive of much good. Societies affiliated with it have sprung up in all parts of the kingdom, and to obtain its honours is a most coveted matter with Rose-growers. Before dealing with the cultural part of our subject it will be well briefly to glance at the various stocks employed, as they have an important bearing on the future of the plant. Rose Stocks. The Briar Standard. For many years the Standard held its place pre-eminent amongst Rose-cultivators, but the experience of some severe winters was so painful, and the losses were so great, both here and in France, that growers gradually came to the conclusion that it was safer and better to grow Dwarfs. The Standard Rose could never be considered a " thing of beauty," and when to its extreme ugliness there was added the probability of its succumbing to a severe winter, it was gradually put on one side. There are still people who fancy that a villa garden cannot be complete without a row of Standard Roses, planted at equal distances on the grass or B 2 4 Roses for Amateurs. along the drive; and there are many who still hold to the opinion that no Rose that can be grown equals a Maiden Bloom on the Standard Briar. While, therefore, the Standard is year by year falling into disfavour, so far as the average amateur is concerned, there are not a few specialists who swear by it for the production of exhibition blossoms of the highest class, and especially for those belonging to the Tea section. There is, therefore, no likelihood of its being entirely superseded. There can be little room for doubt that when Roses are in a cold or a bleak position they would be less likely to fall victims if grown as Dwarfs. Still, were it not for the Standard Stock our Rose-gardens would be bereft of what is often a most strikingly beautiful addition — namely, the Weeping Roses, of which Francis Crousse and Wichuraiana are well-known types. These are worked upon Standard Stocks. Again, the Standard Rose is costlier at first hand, to say nothing of the after-care in the provision of suitable stakes and ties. The Manetti. The introduction of the Manetti Stock, by the late Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth (equally responsible for the introduction of the Standard Briar Stock), who received it from Italy more than sixty years ago, certainly tended to the increased cultivation of the Rose, and to its present wide popularity. It was raised in the Botanic Gardens at Monza, and created quite a revolution in Rose-growing : it was found so vigorous, so easy to propagate by cuttings, and the bark ran so readily, that it soon became a general favourite. The stock was propagated by hundreds of thousands, and we think it cannot be denied that there is a large number of Rose-growers who, but for it, would have been deterred from ever attempting their cultivation. There was one class of Roses, however, which it did not suit — Teas ; its growth was too strong, and overpowered the more delicate growth of Rose Stocks. 5 the Rose, and consequently for these the Briar still held its own. As a stock for certain Ramblers (the world-famous Crimson included) it is excellent j but we could not recom- mend the amateur when ordering a collection of Roses to specify for them on the Manetti Stock, as such would be sure to give dissatisfaction, it being a notorious fact that they are failures when thus removed, gradually becoming less robust until they finally succumb. Often the sucker-like growths that are thrown up (deceiving even in their appear- ance many old stagers) are all that remain of what were once things of beauty. Briar Cutting. This is the third stock employed by the Rosarian in the production of what are known as Dwarfs, the Manetti and the Briar Seedling being the other two. So far as the amateur is concerned, it is the stock, because he may obtain his material in the autumn, and if he is lucky anticipate the budding thereof a couple of summers hence. The majority of amateurs, however, will prefer to start with established plants from the nurseries, and first gain experience. Such will not do wrong by putting their faith in the Briar Cutting Stock, and certainly if they are about to essay either Teas or the Hybrid Teas. We have tried Standards and Briar Cuttings for certain leas of the more vigorous varieties, of which the two Maman Cochet may be mentioned as types, but the latter stock was far and away the best for the purpose. Roses on the Briar Cutting are not so early as on the less certain Manetti. A point to remember in connection with the different stocks is the way that the roots are made. If a well-grown Rose from the Briar Cutting be examined at the roots it will at once be seen that there is a great tendency for these to be produced much nearer the surface than is the case with those of the Manetti ; while those of the Briar Seedling are disposed to strike downwards. On very dry 6 Roses for Amateurs. soils in hot weather, unless a mulch is employed, such roots necessarily suffer ; but considered from every point of view White Maman Cochet (T.), one of thz best of its class in cultivation ; must be lightly pruned. there can be no question of the superiority of the Briar Cutting as a stock. Rose Stocks. 7 The Briar Seedling. When Mr. George Prince, of Oxford, introduced the Seedling Briar into fuller notice it caused a mild sensation ; and as \ve well remember seeing that cultivator's Early Roses we can testify to their great beauty. We say into fuller notice, because the French growers had already used it largely for grafting in pots, especially the new varieties of Roses which they were every year introducing ; but it is to Mr. George Prince that we are indebted for the great popularity it has attained, more especially with regard to the Tea Rose, for which it seems particularly well suited when grown in a light soil. The finer growth of this class seems to take to it most kindly, although there are good reasons for believing that it is suited to almost all varieties of Roses ; but to the lover of the Tea Rose it has been a wonderful boon, and people who never dreamed of attempting its culti- vation have been enabled to do so with considerable success. Another point in favour of the Briar Seedling is that there is nothing like the same tendency to produce suckers as there is in the Manetti or even in the Briar Cutting. Against it so far as the class of readers to whom this book ostensibly caters is concerned is the fact that such stocks, being raised from seed, are necessarily a long time in arriving at the stage when they may be " worked." This is a decided dis- advantage, as quite a large number of Rose-cultivators would lose not a little of the enthusiasm the hobby begets if they were unable to superintend all the operations in connection with their favourites. Growing Dwarf Stocks. As we have stated elsewhere, it is far preferable for the average amateur to purchase his stocks for dwarf Roses than to attempt their cultivation. Still, it may be stated that in making cuttings of either Manetti or Briars for stocks, all the buds except the two uppermost ones should be care- 8 Roses for Amateurs. fully removed. The object of this is to prevent as far as possible growths springing up from below. Cultivation. Requirements. While those who grow Roses extensively do so without much reference to their appearance as garden flowers, and are mainly concerned as to their well-being for exhibition, many who are very fond of the flower are too often utterly regardless of their wants, and plant them about in all sorts of places, without any idea of massing them, or of giving them a fair chance of either growing or blossoming well. Nothing can be more deplorable than the manner in which Roses are sometimes treated; and then, when their owners go to an exhibition, and see the splendid flowers shown, they come away in no very amiable mood, and perhaps vent their wrath on their gardener, utterly ignoring the conditions under which exhibition flowers are grown, and also the fact that, most probably, they had given him directions to plant them in unsuitable places, perhaps because the grower thought they would look well, or because my lady wished it to be so. Very frequently, also, no consideration whatever is given to the difference in climate or situation whence these Roses have come, compared with those in which the somewhat irascible grower has his. We know how, within the limits of a county even, the situation may be as wide as the Poles asunder — perhaps on the top of a cliff overhanging the sea, or in some sheltered valley where no breath of heaven can disturb them rudely ; so that it is almost impossible, in giving directions for the formation of a Rose-garden, to have in one's mind all the various conditions under which the Rose may be grown. There are, however, some canons which we may take for granted to apply to the growing of the Rose in all circum- stances. Readers we hope will not be frightened by the Cultivation. 9 expression a Rose-garden, for nothing has been said about size — it may contain fifty, or a hundred, or hundreds of Roses; but the expression implies this, that the Rose ought to have, and if successfully treated must have, a place by itself, for unless it has, it can never be properly cultivated. There is one place, and one only, in which the Rose will not grow satisfactorily, if at all, and that is in the vicinity of a smoky town. Ah ! what miserable failures one has seen when this has been attempted ; and it shows, indeed, how universal is the love of the Rose that such attempts should even be made. The blacks settle down on the foliage, com- pletely choke the pores of the leaves, and miserable pining away and death are the results. If, indeed, the manufac- tures are not of a very deleterious character, and the garden is situated out of the way of the prevailing winds, some amount of success may be obtained ; but the Rose, although about as gross a feeder as we have in our gardens, is an intense lover of pure air, and a heavily smoke-laden atmos- phere is death to it. With this exception, however, we believe the Rose will grow anywhere — of course, in some districts better than others. Some persons might imagine that Cornwall, with its mild winters, would be just the place for it ; but one of our very best horticulturists says he does not think it would be possible to grow an exhibition Rose in that very favoured locality — the plants all run to leaf, and the blossoms are small and inferior. On the other hand, one would say that a cliff, overhanging the sea, and exposed to the force of our terrific south-west winds, would be ruinous to the Rose ; yet there are some who not only grow them there, but take first prizes at the National Rose Society's and other shows with flowers gathered from a garden so situated. Generally speaking such positions are not those of choice, but of sheer necessity ; it is a case of there or nowhere. io Roses for Amateurs. Position. The first necessity for a Rose-garden is that it be in an open position — that is, not surrounded by trees, or shut in in any way. There are two reasons for this : Where trees sur- round it, their roots make their way into the Rose-garden, and impoverish the soil ; another is that, where a garden is thus enclosed, mildew is apt to be very destructive. Let the portion of the garden, then, that is devoted to the Rose be an open one. There must be a free circulation of air, and plenty of sunshine ; but, at the same time, let it not be assumed that by this is meant an unsheltered position, where the winds can have their way in twisting and turning about the stems, and whisking off the flowers. No; the Rose-garden must be sheltered, though not shaded. Nothing is better than a hedge, provided it be at some little distance from the Roses. This hedge may be of any close-growing plant or shrub which can be kept in bounds. It ought not to be allowed to get much above the level of the Roses themselves. A Sweetbriar hedge, about 2ft. through, and about 2^ft. high, would answer excellently ; while there are also many Roses that might well be utilised to form hedges, and that would be entirely in keeping with the general plan. Perhaps, when the wind has more play, it may be necessary to have a higher hedge. Where it is not possible to have this, a wooden fence forms a very good shelter ; but it is better that the slabs composing it should not be nailed close together, so as to sift the wind, which is all that is wanted. A .fence thus made does not offer such resistance to the wind, and so has a better chance of keeping its position. It seems scarcely necessary to say that a garden in which there are walls that Time has mellowed is an ideal one in which to grow Roses, providing the other conditions are suitable. In fact, it would not be too much to say that a perfect Paradise of Roses might with a little outlay be produced. Cultivation. n Soil. Next to situation, soil is the most important consideration for the Rose-grower. Indeed, some say soil is the first re- quisite; but in this we do not agree, for the simple reason that you can make soil, but you cannot make a climate. You must have a " splendid soil to produce such Roses," is a remark often made by one Rose-cultivator to another. " No ; I have a wretched, gravelly place," has been the rejoinder, ' ' or nothing but sand ; but then I have a fine climate, and my garden is well sheltered." The man who starts with a soil suited to the Rose is, of course, in a better position to grow good Roses than the man who has to make it up ; but, still, it can be made. The soil which the Rose delights in is a rich, unctuous loam — a loam which, when it is pressed between the thumb and finger, does not crumble, but kneads like a piece of putty ; it must not be clay, although approach- ing it closely. This kind of loam is to be found in many counties of England, notably in Hertfordshire and Hereford- shire; but there are many places in both the Southern and Northern counties where it is also to be found. In some places it is many feet in depth, and, where this is to be found, Roses must grow. This being the normal soil for a Rose, it follows that, where that soil does not exist, the object of the Rosarian must be to get it as near to it as possible. If the soil is light, of course the addition of as heavy a loam as can be had will be desirable. Where the soil is heavy, a different method has to be adopted, and either light, vegetable mould, or some other preparation, used. In order to show what can be done by a thoroughly enthusiastic Rosarian, we would here state what was accomplished by the late Mr. Geo. Baker, of Reigate, one of the very best Rosarians we have had. He says : "In preparing the beds, we measured a space of 4ft. for the first trench, all subse- quent trenches being of the same width ; this affords plenty of space for getting sods, manure, £c., in evenly. The 12 Roses for Amateurs. top spit, which consists of good old fibrous turf, was then wheeled to the farther end of the bed, and kept separate on one side ; also the next spit below, so as to be at hand for filling up the trench. The bottom spit was taken away as useless, leaving a trench 2ft. 6in. deep. This was filled in in the following manner : At the bottom was placed a layer of yellow clay, some inches deep, so as to retain moisture (the subsoil was gravel), on this a light covering of small chalk, and then about half the sods which constituted the first spit of the next trench, placed turf downwards, and loosely broken up ; a thick layer 6f rotten cow manure was then put on, to which was added a coating of chalk, coarsely triturated. The remainder of the succeeding trench was now used, broken up smaller, then the first sods, covered with cow manure and fine chalk as before, and finally filled up with the second spit of the following trench, the bottom spit of every trench being dispensed with, to allow room for clay, chalk, sods, manure, as I have described." This is, of course, an expensive process, but it is the best \vay where means are available. This will give a good idea of what ought to be done ; but in smaller gardens and with corresponding means, a much less expensive method may be adopted. Soil, though an undoubtedly powerful factor in the culti- vation of Roses, is not the only one. Without good cultiva- tion, thorough digging, the incorporation of the right kind of manure at the right season, and the constant watchfulness in respect of the general welfare of the trees, even the best of soils will not avail the Rosarian. We have grown in very light soils, by dint of hard work and constant atten- tion, blossoms that would not disgrace the finest stands at any show. It is quite a mistake to think because a soil is gravelly, chalky, or even sandy (the last a most difficult one admittedly) that therefore it is not worth while making the attempt. The question to ask oneself is, Can the soil be Cultivation. 13 improved? If it can, then, in nine cases out of ten, other things being equal, quarters may be rendered suitable for the reception of Roses. Personally, we would much rather start with a light, well-drained soil than a heavy, clayey, water- logged one. There is a popular impression very widely dis- seminated that clay soils are par excellence the soils for Roses. We would, however, point out that there are clays and clays. Those to select are the greasy yellow ones that are characteristic of certain districts, to which we have already referred. Still, taken all round, we prefer the lighter made-up soils, as they are workable when the clayey ones can scarcely be looked at. The Rose-garden in the Making. As to the form which a Rose-garden, large or small, should take, that must be left to individual taste. There are many who think that the Rose needs no setting off, and that a healthy collection of well-grown plants is a sight in itself. One thing, however, is absolutely necessary — the beds of which it is composed should be accessible without much standing on them, and therefore those about 4ft. wide are the best. This will admit of three rows of Dwarf bushes, and all the plants can be reached without standing on the beds themselves. " How dreadfully formal! " some persons will say. True, it may be so; but when we are desiring the welfare of the Rose itself, something must be sacrificed. If the beds, too, are small, provision can be made for the various families. There may be a bed or beds of Teas, another of Moss Roses, another of summer-flowering Gallicas or Hybrid Chinas, another for some specially favourite variety, such as A. K. Williams or La France. If persons are anxious for variety in the form of their beds, it is in their power to make a geometric garden of their Rosary ; but most of the best Rose-gardens one sees are made in the manner described, and some of the very Roses for Amateurs. worst have been those which the owner has thought " pretty," but which are sadly deficient in taste, and where the require- La France (H.T.), silvery rose, with lilac shading, globular, with pointed centre; free and very sweet. ments of the Rose had been sacrificed to what was considered the good appearance of the garden itself. In many modern gardens it is the custom to use Pillar Roses festooned in various ways over chains or what not ; Propagation. 15 and though without doubt they constitute a pleasing feature to the many, to the few anything of the nature of a chain is considered more or less of a disfigurement. With many amateurs living in the country there is often a need to divide the flower-garden proper from that devoted to the cultivation of vegetables. No more effective way can be devised than by using a pergola constructed of larch posts and covering them with suitable Roses. Or, again, a hedge of Rosa rugosa or of Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriars may be employed as a dividing-line. Propagation. Various Methods. Ordinarily there are two methods of propagation that will appeal to the average Rose-cultivator — Budding and Cut- tings ; but to the man or woman who desires to experiment still further there are several other very interesting methods by which Roses or certain of them may be increased — by Seeds, Grafting, Division, Layering, and Suckers. These constitute the principal methods in vogue, and we propose to deal briefly with each in turn, though Roses are so wonder- fully cheap nowadays, and the trouble, not to say the risk, of propagating one's own stock so great, that perhaps many would do a great deal better to obtain their stock from a nurseryman, and get them established in their gardens. In connection with the propagation of one's own stock it must not be forgotten that there is a great waste of time involved in a Rosarian starting his garden depending on his own pro- pagation. He must, the first autumn, get his cuttings, whether of Manetti or Briar, and plant them ; then, in the following year, he buds them ; in the third year he gets his maiden blossom ; and it is not really until the fourth year that he obtains a well-headed plant. All this has been already done for him by the nurseryman, and he has only to put in his plants, without all the preliminary preparation. 16 Roses for Amateurs. He thus gains two, if not three, years — a matter of con- siderable importance. Although budding, as we shall see, is not a difficult process, yet failures must take place, and, in dry seasons especially, they are likely to be numerous. All these vexations the purchaser is saved. Seeds. Interesting though the process of raising Roses from seed may prove, it is not one that is likely to appeal to any but specialists anxious to see what may be done towards producing something worthy of being perpetuated. Still, the prospect of obtaining anything likely to prove worth the trouble is far from being a good one, and cannot, therefore, be recom- mended. Seeds may be obtained from the " heps " or "hips"; these, when ripe, are buried in damp sand until the following spring, by which time little but the seed will remain, and it can then be rubbed out and sown. Birds, rats, and mice are all extremely partial to the seeds, and care must therefore be taken that they are prevented from taking them. For the seed-beds, warm, sheltered quarters are desirable, drills i ft. or so asunder should be drawn and the seeds sown thinly. Or, again, they may be sown in shallow boxes of prepared soil stood in a cold frame. The former, how- ever, is the better plan. Still, however sown, there must not be any impatience shown, as Rose-seeds are notoriously variable in respect to the time that they take to germinate. Undue haste in turning up the soil that has been set apart for the seeds may result in their destruction. We have often had the seeds two years and more in the soil before they showed any signs of life. Any large enough to transplant in the autumn should be lifted and planted 6in. to ift. apart as soon as possible in November, protecting them with light litter during severe weather. The first flowers from such seedlings are only of use as colour-indicators : succeeding years will show the prizes as well as the blanks. Propagation. 17 In this connection it may be mentioned that in hybridis- ing the stamens of the flower intended to produce seed should be cut away before they mature and pollen applied to the stigmas from another flower selected to form the cross. The flower so operated upon should, moreover, be protected with gauze to prevent the ingress thereto of insects which might possibly bring pollen from undesirable blossoms. To take seed from any "heps" that chanced to ripen would be a most haphazard method that no practical Rosarian would risk. The whole subject of hybridising, however, is without the scope of this little work, and the subject is merely hinted at in case there are some few amateurs who would like to try their 'prentice hand at a most interesting and instructive process. Budding. Assuming that the amateur Rose-grower is determined, in the pride of his heart, to say to his friends who visit his garden: "I budded them all myself." How is he to proceed? He must first procure the necessary stocks; these will vary according to the dictates of his fancy. We will first of all deal with Dwarfs, as these are more popular than Standards. These stocks may be either Manetti or Briar, and they have to be planted ; this should be done in rows 2ft. to 3ft. apart, according to the vigour of the sorts to be budded — and the distance between each plant should be about Qin. — in ground that has been well trenched ; manure may also be added, although it is not absolutely necessary. Their quarters should be in some good part of the kitchen garden, where the stocks will get plenty of light and air. We have often seen them in a piece of a field near to the house; but wherever the ground is, it should be taken care of, and not allowed to become choked with weeds, for the future well-being of the Rosary depends not a little on the early c i8 Roses for Amateurs. management. Just as the child is father of the man, so assuredly the proper care of the stock and bud in their early days is the surest guarantee for a good and healthy plant afterwards. The process of budding is very simple, although to describe it is not equally so; and now that Dwarf Roses are the rule, and Standards the exception, there is some difference in the method of doing it. Formerly, the bud was inserted in one of the young shoots that the Wild Briar throws out, as near to the stem as possible ; the object now is to put the bud into the main stem of either Manetti, Briar Cutting, or Briar Seedling, as close to the ground as possible just over the root- stock. Indeed, it is a good plan to plant the Manettis shallow and to earth them up like rows of potatoes. On removing the soil when budding-time arrives and the earth is drawn away, the bark will be moist and run much better than if exposed to the drying influence of the atmosphere. The budding consists in simply making two cuts in the bark of the stem, one longitudinal, the other transverse, so as to form a T. This cut must not go deeper than the bark, and, when made, the bark should be gently raised by the flat end of the budding-knife. Now as to the taking of the buds : select a good shoot of the Rose from which to propagate. It should be a good one, with a nice blossom at the end. Cut off all its leaves, leaving a short piece of the leaf-stalk sheltering the bud. The buds should be plump, and should not have started into growth, or they will be comparatively useless. The Rev. E. N. Pochin, in the " Rosarians' Year-Book" for 1880, under the quaint title of "A Buddhist's Idea," very strongly insisted upon this, and urged amateurs not to take, promiscuously, any shoots, but to make a selection • he also ridiculed the notion of people saying this was too much trouble, adding that no trouble was equal to the trouble of disappointment. Propagation. 19 Having, then, selected a shoot, proceed to take out the bud ; this is done by cutting a thin slice of the wood, about an inch in length, partly above and partly beneath the bud, leaving the bud and a very thin strip of wood, about the thickness of writing paper. Some persons advocate leaving this thin strip of wood with the bud; but the more general practice is gently to remove it by giving a slight jerk, while holding it at the lower end, with the knife-blade and thumb-nail. If successfully performed the appearance on the inner side of the bark will be plump ; but if a hollow appears and the root of the bud has been torn out it will 1 e useless, and another attempt should be made. Many budders put the piece of bark, with the bud, between the lips to keep it moist without actually wetting it before inserting it in the stock. The bud should be inserted in the stock by gently pushing it in at the transverse cut, down to the end of the longitudinal one ; then, with a very sharp knife (which, indeed, is a requisite in the whole of the operation), any of the thin bark on which the bud is should be removed, so as to allow it to lie quite flat in the slit made for it. The bud should then be firmly bound with soft cotton, such as, we believe, tallow-chandlers use for wicks ; this should be put two or three times round above and below the bud, but not covering it, as it should be exposed to rain. Some growers use worsted, and some raffia ; but nothing is equal to the soft cotton here recommended. The best time for budding depends a good deal on the character of the season, but from the end of June to the beginning of August is the most favourable time. It will be easily seen whether the bark rises at all, or clings to the stem, and unless it comes up easily and clean it is not fit for working. Another test is to see if the " prickles " come away readily from the bark. The most favourable weather is when it is showery, as this tends to keep both bud and stem moist, and prevents them from drying up. Budding late C 2 20 Roses for Amateurs. has its advantages, as the buds lie dormant all the winter, and make better plants than when they start into growth as soon as inserted. Just a few words as to the method employed in the bud- ding of Standards, despite the fact that they are more or less unpopular at the present time. With these the buds are inserted as close to the stock as possible in the lateral branches of the "head." Formerly it was almost the in- variable custom to cut back prior to the operation such stock shoots as were to be budded ; now the better practice is to leave them in their entirety, as it has been found that more vigour is thus imparted. When the burl begins to swell the "tie" should be loosened, so as to give it room. As soon as it is seen that the buds have " taken " — that is, a union has been effected between bud and stock, it is the practice of some cultivators to cut back the top to induce the newly-inserted bud to start into growth. It is, however, better to leave the heading-back until about the third week in the following March. The bud remaining plump but dormant until the following spring after inser- tion, will, when the stock is cut back to 2in. above the bud, make a stronger and better growth than if the heading- back were done early, as first suggested. As a rule, the binding material needs loosening and rebinding about three weeks after the operation of budding ; this allows for the natural swelling of the stock as growth proceeds. All suckers or underground shoots from the stock must be care- fully removed. Bud-Grafting. There is still another system of propagating Roses that is in vogue on the Continent and elsewhere, of which we have had absolutely no experience. However, after reading the very lucid description of the method given by " F. M." in Propagation. the Gardeners' Chronicle, we think so well of it that we intend giving it a trial. According to the correspondent named, it Is far more successful than budding, more quickly performed, the bud running no risk of injury by pushing it into place; while should failure result no disfiguring scars are left, and every stem can be grafted, whether the bark "runs" or not. The following is the actual method, as detailed by the writer in the columns of the journal referred to:— ' ' The operation consists in making a slanting incision in the stem or branch, and then with a second cut removing the rind and a very little of the wood. In this cut the bud is placed, after cutting to fit it exactly. That done, another cut can be made on the opposite side of the stem, and a second bud inserted at the same height. Both buds are now bound in with bast or worsted, beginning at the bottom, the short end laid on the stem or shoot, and the longer end used to encircle the buds, binding fairly tightly immediately below and above the bud. The buds being now bound in, the short end and the longer remaining end of the bast can be tied in a knot." Cuttings. By far the simplest method of propagating Roses is that of cuttings, by which Roses are obtained on their own roots, and for which a great advantage is claimed by some, though others do not share that opinion, contending that if Roses are budded low, whether on the Manetti or Seedling Briar, they are soon on their own roots, as the Rose emits roots as well as the foster-mother. There are two seasons when Rose-cuttings may be made — spring and autumn. We do not advocate the former, as it implies the necessity of heated houses, which many amateurs do not possess, and Roses struck under cool treatment stand better than those which have been cultivated in heat. The 22 Roses for Amateurs. following plan has been successfully adopted by many of our best growers : — Having determined on the quantity of cuttings, procure a common garden-frame sufficient to hold them ; place this on hard ground, and then fill in about 6in. of good compost — half loam and the other half leaf-mould, with the addition of some coarse road grit or sand. This should be made very firm — well beaten down with a spade — watered, and left to settle. The cuttings should then be prepared. It is advisable to select well-ripened shoots — as soft shoots will, in nine cases out of ten, die — those having a flower-bud ready to open. There has been some dif- ference of opinion as to whether these shoots should be simply cut off at the joint, or with what is called a heel — that is, a piece of the old wood of the shoot from where the cutting is taken ; but the latter are undoubtedly to be pre- ferred as giving much better results. The cuttings should be provided with four good eyes or buds, and as these are at varying distances in different varieties the length of the actual cutting will necessarily vary. They should be dibbled in 6in. apart, leaving about iin. above the surface of the soil ; but care must be taken to make them very firm, leaving no place for water to accumu- late round the base of the cutting, as this will cause it to rot. When the whole of the cuttings have been inserted, the light should be put on, and the frame kept close for a little while. After that, air must be admitted, so as to prevent damping; and in frosty weather the cuttings must be kept well covered, not because the frost would kill them, but because it lifts them out of the ground, and thus causes them to perish. This should all be done about the last week in September or beginning of October. By the following May or June they will be rooted, and may either be left where they are until planting-time, or potted off, placed in a frame for a while until well rooted, and then planted out. The former is the less troublesome plan, and where it has Propagation. 23 been adopted we have known good Roses to have been cut in less than twelve months from the time of the cutting being planted. It must be borne in mind that when evergreen and other varieties retaining their foliage until winter is with us are struck under frames, bell-glasses, &c., the retention of their leaves is necessary to a successful result. Hybrid Perpetuals in the majority of cases will strike equally as well with as without their leaves, and without any artificial aids such as are required by the other sections. There are some Roses, however — those of the hard- wooded group, to which the distinctive Moss Roses belong — that are most difficult if not well-nigh impossible to raise by cuttings. Still, even without any extraneous aids the amateur desirous of working up a stock of Own-Root Roses can readily do so — at any rate of the hardier and more vigorous kinds — by inserting the cuttings in, say, a north border in some sharp gritty sand in October. The cuttings should be taken with a heel, as previously suggested, and may be from loin, to i ft. long. Having removed the ends of the cuttings, they should be inserted about 6in. deep and i8in. apart, care being taken that the bottom of the cutting rests on the soil. When all are in position tread them in firmly and leave them. Frost will often lift them, and for that reason they must be examined periodically, and if found to be loosened the soil should be made quite firm around them. In about a year the plants may be removed to their permanent positions. Frequently objections have been made to the propagation of Roses by cuttings owing to the length of time it requires to make a plant ; but if we take into account the previous pre- paration of any stock before it is budded, it will be seen that this objection does not hold good, and, indeed, that the Rose from cuttings comes into good flower before the budded one. There are some kinds which are more difficult to grow 24 Roses for Amateurs. from cuttings than others; but these will be generally found to be those of a weak constitution. Grafting. This is another method of propagation which is used by growers for sale, but is a more difficult process, and is mostly resorted to with new Roses where it is desirable rapidly to increase the stock, and also for those hard-wooded varieties that are with difficulty increased by the other means. January is the best month, but as grafting requires heated houses it is ill-suited to the small amateur. Whip-grafting is the method chiefly in vogue, though Cleft- and Wedge-grafting are also employed. Division. Though not often practised by amateurs, yet it is a well- known fact that some Roses — e.g., R. spinosissima, Austrian Briars, and the lovely little Fairy Roses — may be divided up, taking care that each piece required to furnish a plant is well provided with roots. Layering. Dwarf or Weeping Roses may be layered in June by bending down a selected shoot, notching it and tonguing it. Tonguing is per formed by cutting half through the shoot an inch below a joint in a slanting direction and then con- tinuing upwards through the middle to about an inch above the node, so that an open slit is formed without completely severing the shoot, and afterwards pegging it into the soil in such a manner that the slit remains open, thus causing a partial obstruction to the downward flow of the elaborated sap as it descends and inducing the formation of roots. By November roots will have formed, and the young plant may be severed from the parent and assigned a position in bed or border. Planting. 25 Suckers. Own-Root Roses belonging to certain groups will occasionally show a disposition to send up suckers a distance from the parent plant. These may be detached in autumn and utilised for purposes of increase. Occasionally, too, we have removed such suckers with roots attached — Rosa s-pino- sissima in particular. Naturally when this is the case the rooting operation after the severance is more quickly accom- plished than when the roots have to be emitted afterwards. It is usual to " nick " the sucker on the soil side when planting. Planting -After-Culture. When to Plant. Assuming that the piece of ground intended for the Rose- garden has been arranged, prepared for planting in August or September, and marked off into beds 4ft. wide, the important question of planting has to be considered. The period at wrhich this should be done is generally considered the beginning of November, after the foliage has been shed ; but this will somewhat depend on the character of the soil and the climate, and some little on the actual variety. Where the former is light, the situation is not much exposed, and the variety a vigorous one, it makes very little difference. Indeed, we have known Tea Roses and many Hybrid Per- petuals that have done quite as well when planted in February or March. Where, however, the soil is clayey, and retentive of moisture, and the position cold, we think that spring planting is undoubtedly preferable, at any rate for Teas, Hybrid Teas, and the more delicately-constitutioned Roses generally. Still, whatever plan is adopted, there should be no hesitation as to when the Roses should be procured, if they have to be bought. As early as possible in autumn, when the foliage has fallen and the sap descended, is the time, when they should always be obtained ; if it is possible to go 26 Roses for Amateurs. to the nursery, so much the better, for they can then be taken up, packed, and carried off, and as soon as possible, if not planted, " heeled-in," for nothing can be more in- jurious to the future well-being of the Rose than to have its roots exposed for a time before planting. How one has mourned to see plants lying out on the path, exposed to a cold, biting easterly wind, which dries up the tender spongioles of the roots at a time when they have not the opportunity of repairing the damage; for, although there may be, and probably is, root-action during the winter, yet it is of a comparatively feeble character, and therefore no strain should be imposed on the plants which they are unable to bear. Should it be impossible to go to the nursery to obtain the plants, as soon as they are received thence by road or rail, they should be unpacked, and, if the ground is not ready or the weather is unfavourable (frost or wet), be 11 heeled-in " — i.e., laid on their sides in a shallow trench, and the soil thrown in to cover the roots. Soil-Condition. It must be clearly understood that nothing is gained by planting Roses when the ground is sticky ; it is far better to wait until it is in a workable condition, and, if the roots are well covered, they will not be injured by being delayed. It is not that harm is done by standing on the beds — and, if they are of the width already mentioned, there will be no necessity for doing this — but because the roots, being com- paratively inactive, will rot, and so injure the plants. Having at last obtained the requisite fine weather, the operation should be commenced. Open the holes at the distance you wish the plants to be — the more room they have the better; in a bed 4ft. wide there will be room for three rows of plants, and they may be placed at the same distance in the rows. It is inadvisable to put, as some recommend, manure and loam into the hole before planting : manure is Planting. 27 apt to induce fungus, and so to injure the roots. The application of manure should be, in all cases, as a surface- Baroness Rothschild (H. P.), light pink, large and fine, but scentless; a good late variety. dressing, instead of being dug into the soil or used when planting. Nor do we approve of dipping the delicate roots in the ''puddle/' favoured by some. Roses for Amateurs. Planting. 29 Before dismissing the subject of planting it may be useful briefly to refer to a few of the Roses that are especially likely to give satisfaction when tried under conditions not generally favourable to their cultivation. We refer more particularly to those that may be grown near towns. Apart from the actual vigour of the variety selected there are other factors that may have to be considered. For instance, in the case of Roses for town gardens it would be as well to select varieties with more or less glossy foliage, as the impurities one finds in some towns if they should settle thereon are more readily dislodged by artificial or natural waterings. They should also be budded, as such stocks provide far more vigorous plants than those obtained from cuttings. By town gardens, moreover, it would be well to state that we refer to those not likely to be troubled with a persistent " smoke." Especially would we recommend for a garden near a town, but away from a smoke-laden atmosphere, such well-known and time-honoured varieties as Captain Christy (H.T.), Mme. Abel Chatenay (H.T.), Camille Bernardin (H.P.), Mme. Isaac Periere (B.), Clio (H.P.), Cheshunt Hybrid (H.T.), Mrs. John Laing (H.P.), and La Tosca (H.T.). Then the sweetly pretty China Roses (like Laurette Messimy), Rugosa, Sempervirens, Ayrshire, and Damask sections may all be laid under contribution. Lastly, there is the beautiful fragrant Gloire de Dijon, which has been found to succeed better in towns than the majority of varieties. Preparation of the Plant. Before actually putting the tree into position, examine care- fully the roots, cutting off any damaged portions and shorten- ing back any that are unduly long or that have tap-root-like appearance, using a knife and not secateurs. Moreover, if able to differentiate suckers from the root proper cut them out, thus saving trouble in the future and not imposing a drain upon the vigour of the plant without any compensat- 30 Roses for Amateurs. ing advantage. Still, if trees are procured from a nursery of repute they are almost certain to have been carefully over- looked. Actual Planting. Now for the planting, which is better done by two than one. Having the plant ready, and being well gloved to prevent its too pressing attentions, place it in the hole, at a sufficient depth to cover, when filled in, the point of junction where it has been budded (approximately lin. below the surface) ; for the object is with Roses, either on the Manetti, Briar Seedling, or Briar Cutting, to induce them to throw out roots, so as to make them, comparatively speaking, independent of the stock, or, at any rate, to give them a double chance of health. Mr. Geo. Prince says No with regard to the Briar Seedling stock, but most growers follow the plan of covering in the junction. The roots should be spread out carefully all round in a horizontal direction, and great care should be taken to dispose them that they do not cross, as in the case of fruit-trees. Some finely-sifted soil should be worked carefully between the roots with the fingers, soil to a depth of a couple of inches or so added, and the whole made firm by careful treading. The remainder of the soil should then be thrown in, and again trodden down. Firm planting is most desirable; it leaves no opportunity for water to lodge about the roots, and so gives the trees a better chance. Where the soil is naturally light, it is a very good plan to put on a shovelful of fibrous loam, chopped up. It is well, when the planting is done, to affix short stakes to each plant, so as to prevent their being shaken about by the wind. As some cultivators of the Rose in a small way are very partial to growing them on their lawns, we would strongly deprecate the absurd method of bringing the grass right up to the base of the bushes. To do so is to ask for failure and also to deserve it. When grown as single plants Planting. 31 there should be allowed a fair area of soil so that the fibrous roots that are present in healthy Roses may derive all the benefit possible from rains and artificial waterings. Once the trees are in position, labels should be affixed to them. The Acme labels identified with Mr. Pinches are excellent for the purpose and have a first-class reputation. So far we have assumed that the Roses to be employed in the beds are Dwarfs. Not a few, however, still pin their faith to the Standards or Half-Standards, and also submit with some truth that they help to break the somewhat flat appearance a bed composed entirely of Dwarfs presents. Be that as it may, they should, if used, be planted at least i\i t. apart and 6in. deep. Stakes should also be inserted to prevent the trees from being blown about by rough winds, and around the stem should be secured a strip of sacking or similar material, otherwise the bark would be considerably injured. Standard Teas are best protected when planted in the autumn by tying bracken in the " head " in such a way that the more vital part of the plant is covered. It cannot be too forcibly impressed upon the cultivator that first-class results can never be hoped for in borders containing large and rampant-growing shrubs. Everyone, of course, who admires Roses cannot devote entire beds to their cultivation, desirable though it is. The next best thing is to provide the plants with positions in mixed beds and borders where their branches get plenty of space, sun, and fresh air, and are not over- shadowed by tall trees or shrubs. There are other sections whose planting has not been provided for — Climbers (so-called) and Own-Root Roses (those produced from cuttings). The former need plenty of space (4ft.) between the individual plants, and as they cause an extra drain upon the soil the latter quickly becomes exhausted and requires renewing. Own-Root Roses may be planted ift. Sin. apart and 6in. deep. Of late, too, there has come into existence an interesting section in the Miniature 32 Roses for Amateurs. Standards. These may be most usefully employed in beds and borders, where they would constitute an effective feature. After-Treatment. When the bed has been completed some rotted manure may be placed round each plant ; this will be sufficient to keep the roots moist, and at the same time enriches the soil. As the days shorten, and frost follows, some kind of protection is desir- able. Long litter from the stable or pigsty does not blow about so much as plain straw does ; and, moreover, there is a certain amount of short dung which afterwards may be gently forked in. As an additional security against frost, it is well to earth up the plants, a portion of the soil of the beds being drawn up to the neck or collar of the plant. This had better be done before the topdressing is put on ; for if, in doing it, any of the roots have been exposed, the top- dressing will cover them. Should the garden be open, it will be well to place some thatched hurdles at the side of the prevailing wind, so as to give the plants shelter. Buying the Stock. It is scarcely necessary to add that it pays when buying Roses to go to a firm with an established reputation for stock. There are some which may be called Rose specialists, and there are other firms which, though they do not fall within the same category, have, nevertheless, strongly identified them- selves with the flower. We cannot, of course, enumerate even a tithe in either section, but merely a few of those of whom we have personal knowledge. In the former there are the Cants, of Colchester, Geo. Prince, of Oxford, Paul and Sons, of Waltham Cross, Dickson and Sons, of New- townards, Prior and Sons, Ipswich, and James Walters, of Exeter ; and to the latter belong such well-known firms as Kelway, of Langport, Barr and Sons, Long Ditton, Bath, of Wisbech, Sydenham, of Birmingham, Veitch and Sons, Planting 33 Chelsea, Turner, of Slough, Jackman and Sons, Woking, &c. Any or all of these and many more besides may be relied upon for sending out excellent stock. Pruning. This important matter has next to be considered. It is not one of those subjects for which hard-and-fast rules can be laid down. The amount of pruning will be largely governed by the variety and not a little by the purpose for which the Rose is grown. Roses, irrespective of variety, that are simply grown for garden decoration will not require severe pruning. Then, again, it is necessary to differentiate between the spring and the summer pruning, the latter merely consisting of the shortening of rampant shoots or the removal of all useless wood, say, in September, thus enabling the autumn sun and air to play their part in ripening up the wood. The actual time for pruning proper depends a good deal on situation. In some places it is perilous to do it early, as the shoots made are apt to be cut off by frost ; but, as a general rule, it may be undertaken the first fortnight in March, that being about as good a time as any. It is very possible that before this, in some seasons, the upper portion of the shoots may be green, and buds even making their appearance; but this need create no anxiety. "Will they not bleed very much when pruned, if left so late? " may be asked. Very possibly ; but a great deal too much stress has been laid on this bleeding. The experience of many very successful Rose-growers is that it does little or no harm. The first year that Roses are received from a nursery or planted they cannot well be pruned too hard, and should be cut down to two or three eyes. Afterwards it will become a question as to whether they should be pruned lightly or hard. Supposing, then, that the second year after planting has come, how are the plants to be treated ? If they have D 34 Roses for Amateurs. grown well, they have thrown up three or four long, stout shoots, and on these the grower will rely. All the short, old wood of last year, and anything that appears sappy, should be cut out. These long shoots should now be cut with a sharp pruning-knife, never with a secateur. If the latter be used we find that the wood is often so bruised in the Rose-tree before Pruning. process that it dies completely away. The shoot should be cut just above an eye that points outward, so that when it does start it may not interfere with other shoots, and the bush will thus be more shapely. As experience is gained, the grower will be able to distinguish between varieties that require hard pruning— that is, leaving only about 3in. or /(.in. of the shoots — and those of which pin. or loin, may be left. As a rule, strong-growing Hybrid Perpetual varieties must Planting. 35 be pruned lightly, otherwise they will all go to wood, and the blossoms will be few and small ; while other varieties must be cut hard. Generally speaking Teas and Hybrid Teas do not like the knife, although there are some individuals that will bear harder pruning than others. An indication as to what are vigorous growers will be found in any good catalogue. Hybrid Perpetuals to take them as a section may be closely pruned. More specific instructions with regard to Teas and Hybrid Teas will be found under the chapter dealing there- with ; while later on some of the other sections of Garden Roses will be treated of and their special requirements in regard to pruning pointed out. In order to make this matter clearer, we give two illustrations from sketches made by Mr. E. Mawley, Hon. Secretary of the National Rose Society. Our first illustration represents the Rose- tree before it is pruned, and the lines the points at which the knife is applied. The second shows the same tree after the operation. These directions with regard to pruning refer to that most popular and generally -grown class of Roses, the Hybrid Perpetuals, for Teas require, in this and in other matters, a somewhat different treatment. Where it is designed to get large bushes and a profusion of flowers, without being too regardful of their quality, less vigorous action in the way of pruning may be adopted, the shoots left longer, and so the plant gradually increased in size. To those, however, who prefer, it may be, fewer blossoms, but those of a good quality, even though not required for exhibition, the course recommended will com- mend itself. D 2 Rose-tree after Pruning. 36 Roses for Amateurs Disbudding. And now comes a time when the difference between one who merely grows for his garden and one who grows for exhibition is very decidedly marked — namely, in the dis- budding of the Roses. Moreover, we feel assured that the former would soon find that he would get more enjoyment from his plants if he followed the exhibitor's practice. Some varieties of Roses have only one flower at the end of the shoot ; others have three or four, crowded together, and the question arises, " Are we to have one good, really good, flower, or three or four indifferent ones? " People who see grand blossoms of Roses at exhibitions, want to know why they cannot get such flowers ; they have the varieties, they spare no expense, and yet they cannot get such blossoms. We are convinced that, in a great many cases, the unwilling- ness to disbud is at the bottom of it ; but, as in pruning, one has need to have courage, and to act upon it. It seems a pity to pull off such a number of blossoms, and so it does to cut away apparently flourishing shoots ; but it must be done, and the best way is to remove the extra buds with a blunt quill or a toothpick. If those who delight in their Roses were only to try the disbudding they would find it well worth the trouble. In the same way, staking the shoots, which is resorted to by exhibitors, is considered too troublesome for the ordinary grower; and, undoubtedly, if it can be done without, the Rose-garden will look better. Almost equally as important as the removal of super- fluous flower-buds is that of getting rid of certain leaf-buds by the process known as " rubbing out," on very much the same principle as that obtaining in the cultivation of fruit- trees. If by allowing a bud to remain a badly-shaped tree is likely to result, the better plan is to rub it out. With very vigorous-growing varieties it is not uncommon for Rose specialists to rub out all misplaced buds — those that grow inwards and are likely to fill up the tree or that are situated Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 37 in too close a proximity. This is done early in May, accord- ing to locality and season. Inasmuch, however, as this is entirely a question of the examination of the individual plant, nothing hard and fast can be laid down. The shape of the tree as reflected in the mind's eye must be the chief deter- mining factor. Mildew and Other Diseases. As the Rose is not without a thorn (some are), so, even in our securest moments, there lurks a danger ; for the hot, bright, summer days are often succeeded by cold nights; and, again, after a spell of bright, warm weather, we get a cold and chilly time. Such weather conditions are conducive to that great pest of the Rose, Mildew (Sphcerotheca -pannosa) ; this will soon be seen by the curled and disfigured appearance of the leaves; and, after a time, the leaves fall off, and the Rose-garden looks very melancholy. It is not, however, proposed here to deal specifically with this or any of the other diseases to which Roses are liable. A section will be devoted to their con- sideration in another part of the work. Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. Teas and Noisettes. The directions already given with regard to cultivation have been chiefly in reference to the class of Roses known as Hybrid Perpetuals ; but still more popular, if possible, are the Hybrid Teas, Teas, and Noisettes (the two latter of which are usually classed together and many varieties of which seem to run into one another, the difference being greater in habit than in flower) ; thus, that most popular (where it can be grown) of all Roses, Marechal Niel, has much affinity to the Tea Rose, although its habit is so distinct. For all that they are alike in many points, the Teas 3§ Roses for Amateurs. and Noisettes have quite a different origin. The Tea Rose is generally supposed to be the progeny of the Blush Tea- scented Rose (Rosa odorata), crossed with the Yellow China, the latter having been introduced about 1824. The Noisette, on the other hand, was raised from seed in America by M. Philippe Noisette, and sent by him to his brother, a nurseryman in Paris, about the year 1817; it was the progeny of the Musk Rose (Rosa moschata), fertilised with the common China. From the former it inherits its fragrance and tendency to blossom in clusters, though this tendency has been somewhat diminished as the individual flowers have been increased in size and the infusion of Tea blood has been greater. Thus, Marechal Niel, though occasionally giving two or three buds on the shoots, as often produces only one ; and the same may be said of that very fine yellow Rose (where it can be grown), Cloth of Gold. No allusion to the Noisette section would be complete without at least a reference to that vigorous and time-honoured variety, William Allen Richardson, which was brought out in 1878. It is one of those few varieties that may be grown either in the open or under glass, that will adorn a pillar, a pergola, or a wall, and yet be equally in keeping grown as a standard in a bed or in a border, while so far as colour is concerned, it stands alone as regards depth of yellow. There is no class of Roses more influenced by climate, and in the North of England it is almost impossible to grow them satisfactorily out of doors, the heavy rainfall being much against them — more so than even frost, from which it is possible to protect them. Two causes have tended to make the cultivation of the Tea Rose easier than it used to be. One has been the introduction of the Briar Seedling as a stock for it, mainly owing to the exertions of Mr. George Prince, of Oxford, as we have already mentioned. The French had long been in the habit of using the briar for grafting, but to Mr. Prince must be given the credit of Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 39 employing it to any extent for budding. The briar had always been considered the best stock for the Tea Rose, as the Manetti was too vigorous, and began to move too early in the spring — in the one case overpowering the graft, and in the other exposing it to be cut off by early frosts; and, as William Allen Richardson (N.), deep orange-yellow, very distinct ; a favourite climbing Rose and most useful buttonhole flower. the briars used were either standards or half standards, there was the almost certain result of their being severely crippled by the frosts of winter; whereas, when worked on the Briar Seedlings, they can be easily protected, and even if the heads of the plants are cut off, they throw up strong shoots from 40 Roses for Amateurs. the ground. The second cause has been the introduction of a hardier race of Teas, which are able to withstand the cold weather to which they are subjected with us ; although it is a great mistake to suppose that the winters are severer here than in the neighbourhood of Paris, which has a greater degree of cold than London. Special Cultivation. With regard to special cultivation, either on their own roots or as dwarfs, it may be stated that the plan recom- mended by Mr. Rivers years ago, and more fully developed by Mr. George Paul in the " Rosarians' Year-Book " for 1880, of growing them on raised beds, is the best. Of course, in the more favoured parts of our island, and where the soil is favourable, such methods are unnecessary ; but in other parts the extra care and trouble involved in this method of culti- vation will be amply repaid by the success gained. It is best to choose for the purpose a southern aspect. When the space is marked out, if the soil be very retentive, or the subsoil bad for drainage, the earth must be removed to the depth of i8in., one-half of this being filled in with brick rubbish, and then a border made of either bricks or wood. The bed should then be filled up with a good compost of loam, leaf-mould, manure, and sand, added to the soil which has been taken out; it will then be about ift. higher than the path. If this is done in autumn, the earth will have time to settle before planting time comes. Planting and After-Cultivation. It is always best to defer the planting of newly-formed Tea Rose beds until the spring. When the plants are received from the nursery, they should be heeled-in, and their heads covered with a piece of matting, or fern, or any warm, pro- tecting material ; this should only be done in severe weather, so as not to encourage premature shoots, which would be of Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 41 no use, and would only weaken the plant. When April arrives (not before) the bed may be planted, cutting back the shoots to three or four eyes, and choosing a favourable day for it — favourable not only as to weather overhead, but as to the state of the soil, for it is of very little use doing it when the soil is wet and sticky. A little delay is much better than working and standing on the ground when it is in this con- dition. They may be planted about 2ft. apart each way, and care should be taken that they are inserted low enough for the place of junction to be covered ; so that, in fact, after a time, they become double-rooted, and thus have a better chance. During the first year the plants will make vigorous growth if they have been properly treated, and in the follow- ing autumn may be top-dressed like the Hybrid Perpetuals, and we find that they do not really require more protection. It is quite immaterial if the larger growth should be cut down by the frost, for the plants will throw up strong shoots from below the surface of the ground ; and it is wonderful how vigorous these shoots are, and how full of blossom. During the months of August, September, and often in October there will be a wealth of blossom on the plants of the Tea race, whilst amongst the Hybrid Perpetuals the blossoms will be few and far between. Pruning. With regard to pruning there has been a wide difference of opinion, some contending that Teas ought to be cut hard, others that they should be only tipped. It is a very good plan to alternate the practice — i.e., one year cutting them to within 4.in. or 5in. of *he ground, and the following year only shortening the shoots. Should, however,. the winter be hard, and the plants be severely hit by frost, it will be necessary, as in the case of Hybrid Perpetuals, to cut them down below where the pith has been affected and discoloured. Roses for Amateurs. Mmc. Bcrard (T.), a combination of fawn=yellow and rose: a nice climbing variety of Gloire de Dijon type, but equally good as a Standard and for pillars and arches. Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 43 As WeJl Plants. There is yet another way in which Tea Roses may be grown. Where the amateur has a wall there is nothing better for covering it than some Roses of this lovely class ; and even where there is no wall, what can be more charming for covering the dwelling-house? Many of them are nearly evergreen, while the profusion of their blossom makes them most desirable. Who has not admired that universal favourite, Gloire de Dijon, so at home in all climates and in all situa- tions ? There are others of the same race, such as Madame Berard, Papillon, Bouquet d'Or, and Belle Lyonnaise ; but we question if any of them will supplant the older flower. Then there is the Noisette Reve d'Or, which may be described as a climbing Madame Falcot, most profuse in flowering, and almost evergreen. Marechal Niel should be grown only in the warmer parts of our islands, and on a south or a west wall, and not pruned until the first week in April. Where these Roses are grown in any other posi- tion it will be necessary, should the winter be severe, to give them some protection by nailing mats or some other material over them, the best being what is called scrim, or papering canvas, which simply sifts the cold as it passes through it, and does not " coddle " the trees so as to make them sus- ceptible to the early spring frosts. Hybrid Teas. There is yet another class of Roses which has come into much prominence during the last few years, and whose history is a somewhat curious one : we refer to the class known as Hybrid Teas. Since 1890 its progress has been marked, though Rose-cultivators are still looking for a definition of " What is a Hybrid Tea ? " It was known for many years that the " blood," so to speak, of the Tea Rose had been infused into many of our Hybrid Perpetuals ; notably was this the case with such Roses as La France and Captain Christy, the 44 Roses for Amateurs. delightful perfume of the former being very suggestive of the Tea Rose; while that very useful Rose, Cheshunt Hybrid, -v Belle Lyonnaise (T.), a pale coloured seedling from Gloire de Dijon ; a popular Climbing Rose. very evidently partook of the same character ; but they still retained their place in the Rose catalogue under Hybrid Perpetuals. A few years ago, however, it was suddenly announced that these Roses were to be put in a separate Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes Outdoors. 45 class and were to be henceforth known as Hybrid Teas. Immediately, on both sides of the Channel, additions to the class were announced, and so much was it in favour with the foreign growers that more of them were raised than of either the Teas or the Hybrid Perpetuals. It was probably felt that perfection had been attained in the other two classes, and therefore their energies were to be concentrated on this new class. There is no doubt that the majority of them, doubtful though they may be as regards correct classification, are very beautiful Roses, and many of them retain the Tea habit of autumn blooming, although we do not think that any of them have equalled La France. Botanically, no doubt, it w^ould be difficult indeed to defend the title of a very large number of the varieties now classed as Hybrid Teas. Still, until there is a definite pro- nouncement by the powers that be we shall have necessarily to take things as they are rather than as they should be. If we refer to the first enumeration of Hybrid Teas made by the National Rose Society in 1884, we shall find but 3 trio of varieties included — Reine Marie Henriette, Cheshunt Hybrid, and Longworth Rambler. To-day we find in any catalogue of Rose specialists the Hybrid Teas an extremely numerous section, and very few less in number than the Teas proper. Judged from a garden standpoint, the newly- created class is deserving of all praise ; for collectively it is little behind the Hybrid Perpetual one in respect of freedom of flowering, hardiness of constitution, or general excellence ; while as regards continuity of flower it surpasses it. As regards pruning there can necessarily be nothing hard and fast, as individual Rose varieties differ materially in constitution, apart altogether from class distinction. The cultivator, therefore, \vhile going practically on the lines laid down for pruning the Teas, will have to consider also the actual variety " under the knife." To Messrs. Paul and Son, to whom Rose-cultivators are indebted in most sections 4^ Roses for Amateurs. for many of the finest varieties therein to be found, belongs the credit, we think, of first allocating Roses formerly regarded as Hybrid Perpetuals under Hybrid Teas. That firm, together with Dickson and Sons, the late Mr. H. Bennett, and the French firms of Pernet-Ducher and Nar- bannand, have b^en the chief contributors to the section, and their record, it must be confessed, is an admirable one. Planting, as in the case of the Teas proper, is better deferred until spring, afterwards giving the trees a good mulch. For beds the Hybrid Teas will afford a wealth of material. A little discretion., however, must be used as regards the allocation of the different varieties, the tallest- growing ones being placed in the centre and the dwarfer ones towards the sides. Two feet at least should be allowed between each plant. Varieties. As a section is devoted to the enumeration of varieties for general purposes and exhibition, there is no need to furnish a separate list here. Roses Under Glass. Extension of the System. While the previous sections have dealt with Roses out of doors, and have been mainly intended for amateurs who are not able to afford to cultivate them under glass, yet such structures are now so cheap that any amateurs desirous of extending their Rose season may do so with very little trouble and at a comparatively small outlay. Indeed, nowa- days the cultivators of Roses under glass are a very numerous body. Nor is the reason for this far to seek, seeing that there are plenty of gardens in which it is impossible satis- factorily to grow Roses outside, yet which, given a glass structure, will produce them practically through the dullest months of the vear. Rosas Under Glass. 47 to Grow and Why. While there are many Hybrid Perpetuals that will do well when thus grown, to say nothing of individuals falling in sections outside those ordinarily looked for by the amateur to furnish suitable material, yet for such purpose there are nothing like Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Noisettes : they bloom so profusely, their flowers are so much more lasting, and their colours so delicately beautiful. By common consent they are considered the very best of all Roses for under-glass cultivation ; and it is astonishing how much satisfaction may be obtained from even a small house. Orchids, even now, seem to absorb most of the energies and means of those who have glass ; but it is doubtful whether the space would not be better occupied with pot Roses, for they have this advantage over Orchids — they can be made to serve a double purpose; after they have blossomed they can be turned out of doors, and the house occupied by something else during the summer. We have had, in our own experience, a good proof of what may be done. We had a plant of Marechal Niel, which was put into a large pot, and placed on the ground at the back of a small lean- to, about 1 2ft. long, on the roof of which flourished a grape vine. The plant grew, and it was trained on the back wall ; in course of time the roots pushed through the hole at the bottom of the pot, and the plant became rooted into the soil on which it stood. In six years it covered the whole of the back wall, and in one season no fewer than 250 to 300 blossoms were gathered from it. The Planted-out System. There are two ways in which Roses may be grown under glass — either in pots or planted out. Should anyone be contemplating the erection of a house for the purpose, we would strongly advise that the Roses should be planted out; it is much more satisfactory in every way. The watering is 4-8 Roses for Amateurs. a greater certainty ; and this is an important point, as plants in pots are too often water-logged or dust dry, and in either case the Rose suffers. Then, as the plants grow more freely, there is a greater succession of blossom, and, as a rule, the individual flowers are much finer. Choice of a^ House. If success is to be achieved, there are a few things which it is necessary to recollect, though it is very difficult in keep before one's mind the various sorts of structures which are used. An inexpensive yet thoroughly useful house may be made about i8ft. long, i2ft. wide, and loft, high; and the same plan may be enlarged or diminished according to the wishes or means of the grower. This house ought to contain a central bed with a walk round it, and borders on each side — the central bed being about 5ft. wide, the walks occupying 3ft., and the borders being each about 2ft. wide. The roof should either be movable (the better, though the more expensive, plan), or else, while the greater portion of the glass may be glazed permanently, there should be small sashes the full depth of the roof, made either to rise on hinges or else made movable. The object of this is to get thorough ventilation and the wood well ripened, so that mildew may be, as far as possible, prevented, and the success of the following year assured. There should also be a door at each end. The pitch of the roof should be good, and it should be brought down to about 2ft. at the sides. We have said nothing so far about heating, because we do not believe it to be necessary, although a single 4in. pipe would give the plants an advantage in frosty weather. Where the house is unheated, it will be well to cover the roof with mats, as it is advisable to avoid, if possible, the extremes of heat and cold. Houses suited to Rose cultivation are stocked by numbers of firms making glass structures a speciality. Roses Under Glass. 49 Preparation of Beds. In preparing the beds, care should be taken to secure perfect drainage. The soil should be taken out to about the depth of 2ft., and then about 9111. of broken bricks, pot- sherds, &c., thrown in. On this should be placed the com- post, which should consist of three parts loam (the top spit of a meadow is best) and one part well-rotted cow-dung; to this should be added one part of coarse sand or road grit. Some cultivators recommend a richer compost than this ; but this we believe to be the best, while the additional stimulus can be obtained afterwards by using liquid manure. The compost must be quite rough, well chopped up, but by no means sifted. In planting, it will be well to have in the centre bed a row of standards or half-standards in the middle, and dwarfs in the other rows. Then, in the borders, it is well to plant a few of the more vigorous Noisettes, and allow them to be trained up the roof for a short distance. Such varieties as Afarechal Niel, William A. Richardson, Celine Forestier, and Bouquet d'Or will, in this position, give abundance of flowers. In the front of the border dwarfs may also be planted. Roses thus treated have to be especially watched with regard to mildew, and therefore thorough ventilation (not draught) is necessary. Mildew is chiefly induced by the variations of temperature (and these are likely to be greater in a glass house than in the open air) ; therefore, on its first appearance, it should be dealt with according to the remedies suggested in the section on " Rose Friends and Foes." Procuring the Plaints. These may be ordered from the nurseries, and whatever section is selected (though, as already stated, our predilection is for the Teas and Hybrid Teas), they should combine, if possible, a vigorous constitution with free-flowering qualities. At the end of this section we shall enumerate some of the E 50 Roses for Amateurs. most suitable varieties for growing under glass, so that the amateur may select according to the space at command and the depth of his purse. Marshal Niel (N.), golden-yellow; outdoors suited only to west or south-west walls; indoors one of the finest of all under- glass Roses. Routine Work. A few applications of liquid manure will benefit the trees, and, except in frosty weather, syringing with clear water, Roses Under Glass. 51 wetting the floors, &c., are very desirable. When the first blossom is over, it is well to cut off the flower-stems, and sometimes to cut back the plant a joint or two, so as to induce a good second crop. As the summer advances it will be neivssan to give all the air possible both night and day- take off the top-lights, or open them if they are fixtures — for the thorough ripening of the wood is absolutely necessary if the plants are to succeed the following year. As the autumn approaches the roof if a movable one must be replaced the second week in October, but taking care that whenever the weather admits thereof a free circulation of air is allowed. Where the plants are being grown without heat, pruning may take place about the middle of January ; but where heat is provided, pruning may be conducted in October of the previous year, after giving them a slight rest by dis- continuing watering for a few weeks. No severe pruning is desirable, merely the cutting-out of weakly and misplaced shoots and slightly shortening the others. Pot Cultivation. It is best to procure Teas and Hybrid Teas on their own roots, if possible, for pot cultivation, as the grower is thereby saved all the trouble of underground shoots or suckers. If these are not. to be had, let them be procured on Briar Seedlings, but avoid either those budded on the Manetti or grafted plants, which latter are a delusion and a snare. But Own-root Teas or Briar Seedling budded plants can now be had at most nurseries. It is best to procure them in the autumn, and, as they are received from the nurseries in 6o's, they should be at once potted up into 32 's — i.e., pots about 6in. across. The compost used should be about three parts of good turfy loam, well chopped up (not sifted), one portion of well -decomposed cow manure (or Mb. of Clay's Fertiliser, With's Rose Manure, or the well- known Ichthemic Guano may be incorporated with each E 2 52 Roses for Amateurs. bushel of compost), and one portion of coarse sand or road- grit. Other good fertilisers are sold by Bentley, of Hull, and Valroff, of Horselydown, and these should be used as the makers advise. A sprinkling of " Alphol " may also be advantageously employed. Be careful that the pots are well cleaned ; then fill them about one-third with broken pieces of pots; let these also be clean (the little trouble of washing them will not l>e thrown away). The pot Rose should then be taken and turned out of the pot, the outside of the ball rubbed off, and the ball itself gently squeezed so as to loosen the roots. Be careful to put the plant in the centre of the pot, put the earth in round the ball equally, and then press it well in; firm potting is an essential of success in many things, and in nothing more so than in Roses. After potting give the plants a good soaking of water (not a driblet), and then put them into a close frame for a few days, when they should be removed to the green- house, and then pruned on the lines already laid down, the object being to get a compact bush. As a rule, Teas and Hybrid Teas require less pruning than Hybrid Perpetuals. If they are then placed in a house whence frost is excluded (they require nothing more), they will flower in April, and a little later on they may be taken out of doors, and plunged up to the rim in coal ashes, in a sunny spot, where the wood may be thoroughly well ripened. Should larger plants be required, they may at this time be put into larger pots, i6's being a very good size. The plants will remain out of doors all summer, and then may, in autumn, be again brought into the house, to be treated as before. They will, when growing, be benefited by the application of occasional doses of liquid manure (about once a week will be sufficient), for which there is, perhaps, nothing better than guano, loz. to the gallon, and a small portion of soot ; this gives colour to the foliage, and sweetens the soil. Clay's Fertiliser may also be applied with benefit, using it either as a top dressing (a teaspoonful Roses Under Glass. 53 sprinkled on each 6in. pot) or as a solution (Joz. to igall. of water). Canary Guano, again, may be used similarly. Another good stimulant at such a time is With's Rose Manure in combination with the Plant Food; while Robin- son's Electroplasm (J teaspoonful to each pot) should give excellent results. Forcing. Though amateurs generally may not care for the trouble and extra expense that this mode of cultivation entails, there is no good reason why, if they choose, it should not be attempted. If winter blooms are required, the Teas and Hybrid Teas will be the best varieties to select, the H.P.'s being far more trouble to flower before spring. The pre- paratory work of potting should be performed in the autumn, so as to give the plants time to get well established before forcing is attempted. To this end a gentle overhead syring- ing on bright days will conduce. On no account over water ; but, on the other hand, do not let the soil get bone-dry. A good temperature to commence work is 5odeg. Fahr. by day, falling to 45deg. at night. As the plants progress and growth is made, the temperature may be gradually increased to 65deg. ; but, whenever possible, ventilation should be allowed. Assistance should be given as advised by the use of stimulants during active growth. We have not .said anything about pruning, as the lines already suggested will suffice. Still, we may emphasise the fact that throughout their growing period it is beneficial to remove weak and use- less wood. All forced plants may be put first in cold frames and afterwards outside, with a view to the ripening of the wood, on the proper maturation of which next season's crop of flowers will depend. Those who go in for extensive forcing have three batches of plants. These 'are pruned at varying times from the first or second week in November until Februarv, according to the time blossoms are 54 Roses for Amateurs required. Although \ve are advocates for comparatively light pruning, combined with a due regulation ot growth at all times, yet there are some of the most experienced who prune somewhat severely. The two systems should be tried, and whichever answers better should be followed. The following varieties in their different sections are especially adapted for pot cultivation : — Teas. AMAZONE. — Golden-yellow, with elongated buds ; varies somewhat but when well grown is a decided acquisition. ANNA OLIVIER. — Rosy-flesh; base of petals, dark; a large, beauti- fully-formed flower. BRIDESMAID. — Bright pink, closely resembling CATHERINE MERMKT, but deeper in colour. CATHERINE MERMET. — A light, flesh-coloured Rose, of exquisite shape ; a most lovely flower. COMTESSE DE NADAiLLAC. — One of the most beautiful of Teas. It is almost impossible to describe its exquisite colouring. It is a flesh-coloured Rose, but with the most lovely tints of peach, coppery-yellow, and apricot. It is, perhaps, not so free in growth as some, but we have not found it delicate on a wall, and we think, in pots, it is likely to be vigorous. DEVONIENSIS. — An exquisite Rose, of English origin, white, with yellow tint; large, full, and good. ETUILE DE LYON. — Bright sulphur-yellow; splendid in form and colour ; vigorous in growth. FRANCISCA KRUGER. — Copper, shaded with yellow and rose ; good shape. HON. EDITH C.IFFORD. — White, tinted with rose in the way of DEVONIENSIS, but distinct from it. INNOCENTE PIROJ.A. — Very nearly white ; a beautiful flower ; free, and of good habit. JEAN DUCHER. — Large and full ; a very variable Rose in its colour- ing— yellow, sometimes shaded with salmon and rosy-peach. MME. CHEDANE GUINOISSEAU. — Very bright yellow, beautiful colour and form; small, and well adapted for a buttonhole flower. MME. CUSIN. — Rosy-purple, with yellow base to each petal ; quite distinct, and a very desirable Rose. MME. DE WATTEVILLE. — Very distinct pale lemon, with distinct margin of pink ; large, full, and free. MME. TALCOT. — Apricot-yellow, with nice pointed buds ; excellent for buttonholes. MME. HOSTE. — Lemon-yellow ; large and full, of fine form ; and free. MME. LAMBARD. — A very beautiful Rose, varying much in colour, from salmon to bright rose; very vigorous. Roses Under Glass. 55 MAMAN COCHET. — Rose, with carmine and bright rcse shading, large, and of fine form; lasts well. MARIE VAN HOUTTE. — Yellowish-white ; edge of petals tinted with rose ; very vigorous and free ; a delightful Rose. MRS. B. R. CANT. — Rich, deep rose; one of the best, and an excel- lent autumn Rose. MRS. E. MAWLEY. — Pink, with salmon suffusions, shell-like petals, high-pointed centre ; very fragrant, and quite in the front rank of Teas. Marie Van Houttc (T.), canary-yellow, deeper in centre, petals edged rose; a vigorous variety ; requires light pruning. XIPHETOS. — Pure white; in great request for bouquets; very large, full flower. PERLE DES JARDINS. — Canary-yellow; large, globular, but sometimes opening badly in centre. RUBKXS. — White, with creamy-rose centre; very large and full flower. 56 Roses for Amateurs. SOUVENIR DE PIERRE NUTTING. — Apricot-yellow, suffused with deep orange ; hardy and free. SOUVENIR DE S. A. PRINCE. — Pure white; large, full, and globular; very free. A white sport of SOUVENIR D'UN AMI. SOUVENIR DE THERESE LEVET.— Deep rosy-crimson; in form some- thing like NIPHETOS, and the darkest Tea Rose we have. SOUVENIR D'UN AMI. — Variable somewhat as to colour, but usually a pale or a deep rose ; large, well-formed, and free. SUNRISE. — Outer petals reddish carmine, shading to pale fawn, and pale salmon within ; excellent in bud state. SUNSET. — An American sport from PERLE DES JARDINS ; a rich tawny-orange yellow, something in colour like MADAME FALCOT. THE BRIDE. — Pure white, large, free; a white sport from CATHERINE MERMET. WHITE MAMAN COCHET. — Creamy-while, long pointed buds. One of the best Teas. Hybrid Tea^s. ANTOINE RIVOIRE. — Rosy-flesh, with base of petals yellowish; full and large. AUGUSTINE GUINOISSEAU. — White; in form resembling LA FRANCE. BESSIE BROWN. — Creamy-white, very fragrant; free. CAPTAIN CHRISTY. — ^Delicate flesh pink ; deeper towards the centre ; large flower. CAROLINE TESTOUT. — Salmon-pink ; one of the finest in the section. CLARA WATSON. — Pearly white, with peach-tinted centre ; free. DR. J. CAMPBELL HALL. — Coral-rose, with white suffusions, and yellowish at base of petals. ETOILE DE FRANCE. — Velvety crimson, with cerise centre ; of good substance and cupped in form. GRACE DARLING. — Cream, with rosy shadings ; large, and very free. KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA. — Creamy, with lemon shadings, deeper towards the centre ; a beautiful variety. KILLARNEY. — Flesh, shaded white, and suffused with pinkish; long pointed buds ; very free. LADY ASHTOWN. — Pale rose, shaded to yellow at base of petals; long pointed buds ; large flower. LADY BATTERSEA. — Crimson, shaded with orange ; very distinctive. LA FRANCE. — Silvery rose-lilac ; large and free ; one of the best. LA TOSCA. — Soft pink, tinted rosy-white and yellow ; vigorous. LIBERTY. — Brilliant crimson, velvety ; a superb variety. MME. ABEL CHATENAY. — Carmine-rose, shaded salmon, base of petals deeper ; long pointed buds. MME. JULES GROLEZ. — Silvery-rose, shaded yellow at base. MILDRED GRANT. — Ivory white, tinted pearl, high-pointed centre ; a lovely variety. Exhibiting Roses. 57 PAPA GONTIER. — Rosy-crimson ; vigorous. SOUVENIR DE MME. EUGENE VERDIER. — Creamy-white, shaded yellow. VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE. — Light pink with darker centre; large, and very sweet. Noisettes. CAROLINE KUSTER.— Bright lemon-yellow; an admirable Rose fur pot culture ; very free. CELINE FORESTIER.— Pale yellow, with deeper centre. LAMARQUE. — White, with lemon shadings. L' IDEAL. — Yellow and coppery red; excellent as a bud. WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON. — Deep orange; one of the best for buttonholes. Climbers. There are a host of varieties falling under this head, although, of course, the word "climber" is incorrectly used. As the average amateur having a greenhouse can only accommodate successfully one variety, then his choice could scarcely be better bestowed than upon MARECHAL KIEL. It is best to have the rose on a Standard Briar, and for the root to be outside, bringing the head through into the house. Hybrid Perpetuals. BARONESS ROTHSCHILD. — Exquisite light pink; scentless. CAPTAIN HAYWARD.— Scarlet-crimson. FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI. — Pure white ; the finest of all while roses. GENERAL JACQUEMINOT. — In colour resembling Captain Hayward, but brighter. MRS. JOHN LAING. — Rosy-pink; sweet-scented. ULRICH BRUNNER. — Cerise-red; large, and fragrant. Exhibiting Roses. Disbudding and Shading. We have already said that there is very little difference in the cultivation of Roses for the ordinary enjoyment of the grower and for exhibition, save in the two points of disbudding and shading. Of course there are some who make it prac- 58 Roses for Amateurs. tically a business ; these are, for the most part nurserymen and Rose .specialists. This work, however, is obviously not intended for such as these, but for the amateur who desires to excel. In the gardens of the majority of amateurs who appreciate Roses space is, unfortunately, very restricted and. as we have stated elsewrhere, the flowers cannot be produced to perfection when crowded amongst rampant-growing sub- jects in the mixed bed or border. If the amateur has a fairly large garden and seriously intends to go in for Rose exhibition, it will be a good plan to set apart a spacv specially to accommodate his trees. Often in a large kitchen garden space could be found for such, and there they could doubtless be more readily attended to than in the flower garden proper. Still Rose-showing, like many other hobbies, has been reduced to a fine art, and the amateur must not expect at the outset to compete successfully with those who have had to buy their experience. An exhibitor must be careful about disbudding, although, under certain circum- stances, he may be indifferent about shading. It is of no use — rather the reverse — for an exhibitor to leave more than one bud at the end of each shoot ; therefore, as soon as they are large enough, the side buds must be taken out ; and, in case of high winds prevailing, each shoot should have a stake. It is always best to be provided with shades, which are to be placed over each blossom ; these are made of various kinds. We have known a grower ere now shade his Teas with what are ordinarily called Zulu hats; these can be had at a very cheap rate. Another form of shading is to make conical caps of wire, and then to stretch on these thin calico. Still, the best form of blossom-protector that we know is the Acme (of which an illustration is given). This combines lightness and rigidity with ready adjustability and durability. The object in shading is to keep the flowers clear from rain, and also, in the case of the darker flowers, to shield them from the burning effects of the sun's rays. Exhibiting Roses. 59 "Feeding" the Plants. Roses intended for exhibition will need to be carefully "fed" by means of good natural and artificial manure. The Acme Rose Shade. The actual manure to be employed must necessarily vary with the kind of soil. Where this is light the farmyard or stable manure should consist of cow-dung or peat-moss fitter. On 60 Roses for Amateurs. the other hand, where the staple is heavy, then horse manure is preferable. Whichever is used, we have found it far more serviceable when well soaked with the rich liquid drainings from the heap in a stockyard ; or, failing that, the ordinary house-slops may be similarly employed. Those who grow Roses for show would do well to keep such a heap if this be possible, with a view to utilising it in the autumn. In order to prevent it from going rank the mass would require to be turned occasionally. Farmyard manure as a mulch may also be applied in spring, after pruning has taken place. With regard to other manures, opinions differ considerably as to which of the many artificial and others may be used with benefit. Still, most growers will agree that the majority of those " artificials " already referred to may be used with particular benefit. Then there are also other special manures — basic slag, superphosphate of lime, bone-meal, and muriate of potash, for example — that must not be lost sight of. Basic slag and muriate of potash and superphosphates are excellent for light soils. They tend to impart floriferousness, as well as sturdiness and substance, to the flowers, which is all-important in the case of exhibition Roses. The former should be used at the rate of 2oz. to the square yard, and the superphosphates in a similar proportion, save that muriate of potash (Joz.) should be combined therewith in addition. These are best put on the soil in late spring. Weak manure and soot-water in combination may also be applied once a week in summer, taking advantage of a .showery day. Show Apparatus. Having determined to try his hand at exhibiting, it is necessary for the amateur to be provided with the requisite apparatus for so doing. Boxes according to the number of Roses to be accommodated must be provided, also tubes and wires, and plenty of moss, more especially of nice, smooth, green moss, for the surface of the boxes. A box Exhibiting Roses. for six blossoms ought to be ift. long, a box for twelve, 2ft., for eighteen, 2ft. yin., and for twenty-four, 3ft. 6in. They should be of a uniform width and depth, as nothing is more puzzling to the managers of shows than to have boxes of various widths to arrange; and. moreover, experience has shown that these sizes are the ones in which flowers are displayed best. They should be i8in. wide, and 4in. deep in front and 6in. at back, with a lid made to slide off, so that there is no shaking of the flowers on removing it. Cutting the Blossoms. A great deal has been said upon this subject, and, as in many other things, people differ. It has been often said, n What great advantages the grower near home must have over those who come from a distance, because he can cut his flowers the same morning!'1 but, as a matter of fact, he rarely does so. We have known experienced Rosarians who advocate cutting them in the middle of the day before the show ; but this is going to the other extreme. The evening of that day is, perhaps, time enough, but before the dew falls, for experience will show the exhibitor that there is nothing save rain which is so apt to cause the colour to fl fly." Of course, where the Roses are shaded, they will escape this ; but we believe that most Rosarians prefer the evening. Where, however, it is possible, and where Roses are protected, the amateur will, most probably, defer a good deal of his cutting till the morning; but let not the amateur who is obliged to cut the evening before imagine he fights at long odds. Over and over again have we seen one from a distance who has, perforce, cut his Roses the evening before, and travelled with them all night, beat, on his own ground, an amateur of like standing. There is no point on which the young and inexperienced amateur makes a greater mistake than this. He goes into his garden the day before the show ; he sees a magnificent 62 Roses for Amateurs. Marie Baumann or a Duke of Edinburgh before him ; he pictures to himself how grandly it would look in his box on the occasion ; he cuts it at night, and, when he looks at it in the morning, he fancies '(surely it must be fancy?) that it is a little gone off. The remembrance of what, it was still haunts him, and he ventures to put it in his box, forgetting that it has some time to stay yet, that July is a hot month, and that before he uncovers the lid of his box for the judge's inspection the beauty of the Rose will be hopelessly gone. It is of no use saying it was a beauty; judges don't decide by what has been, but by what is, and many people do not realise this. Fully-expanded blossoms ought never to be taken, however beautiful they may be. Roses three-quarters, or even half, open are the best. The exhibitor should have a conl and somewhat dark place to which he can take them as they are cut, for it is not well to have them at all exposed ; and if a few are taken at a time, there is less likelihood of confusion as to names. The flowers should be cut with long stems : they can easily be reduced afterwards. Preparing the Boxes. It will be necessary to be provided with plenty of moss for packing the boxes, also some green moss for placing on the top, and tubes in which to place the Roses. For the latter there were at one time used a good many contrivances, physic-bottles included ; but now the zinc tube specially made for them is employed by every good exhibitor of Roses. An excellent arrangement for setting-up Roses is that invented by Mr. Forster, watchmaker, Ashford, of which we give an illustration. 'It will be seen that the tube consists of two parts — that which holds the water, and the top which is fitted on to it. There is also a wire specially made to fix the tube, and one to hold the name of the Rose. When a Rose is to be put in the box, the wire is placed so as to Exhibiting Roses. 63 hold it in an upright position ; the thin wire is then gently pressed round the stem, which is next cut to the required length and placed in the tube. There is this great advan- tage, that as it becomes sometimes necessary to change the Forstcr's Patent Rose-holder. The Frank Cant Exhibi Rose Tube. position of a Rose in the stand, it can be taken out without disturbing the tube; moreover, it makes the wiring, as it is called, of the flower a most simple operation. The object of all this is not so much to help the flower — like the dressing 64 Roses for Amateurs. resorted to in the case of the Carnation and Picotee — as to add to its appearance. Another good exhibition tube i.s the Frank Cant Telescopic, so made that the outer tube is tapering and will fit tightly on any ordinary tube hole. The inner tube contains the water, the flower, and the label, and, being telescopic, may be raised 3in. or less, and is kept in position at any desired height by means of springs, which cannot get out of order. Wiring is valuable in all classes, but more especially in Teas and Noisettes. Marcchal Niel, for instance, always hangs down its head, but when wired it is seen in all its beauty. This is the only help that is permitted by the Rules of the National Rose Society to be given to the Rose at exhi- bitions. In the early days of Rose-showing, it used to be permissible to add Rose and other foliage ; but this has been strictlv forbidden. Position of Flowers in Box. Having, then, cut the blossoms and carried them into the cool shed, or wherever the boxes may be, the position of the flowers in the box must be determined. There is a good deal more in this than the novice imagines, for, although it is the flowers and net the arrangement which are judged, yet the latter goes for a good deal. If, for instance, two red Roses are placed together, it is more than probable that one will kill the other, and make it look dull; whereas, if a light-coloured flower had been placed between them, it would have made both look better, while the brilliancy ol the red flowers would have made the light flo\ver appear to greater advantage. When the moss has been well sprinkled, then place on the lid of the box, but do not close it. Now, having got your labels ready (those recommended by the National Rose Society are the best), cut the stalks of the Roses to the required length, wire them, and place them in Varieties for Decoration a^nd Exhibition. 65 the tubes ; then let the lid down on the box, placing a block of wood just to keep it a little open, sprinkle the ground with water, shut the door, go to bed, and sleep if you ran. You will, however, have to be up, not with the lark, but before him, especially if you have any distance to go, for there is one very important matter to attend to. You must get all the spares you can : that is, you must cut all the buds that have advanced at all during the night — buds that you thought were not forward enough. You must have another box with tubes, but not so carefully arranged, and in it you must put all your spares (perhaps two or three) in a tube, and prepare them also for their journey. You need not wire them, unless you have time to do the most promising. On arriving at the show-ground, you will be wise to secure a shady spot at the back of the tent, or any place where you are out of the sun's rays. In considerable trepidation you now proceed to open your show-box. " Ah, woe is me! '" you exclaim, " for see how my lovely blossom of Duke of Edinburgh has blown and lost all its colour; my chaste blossom of Merveille de Lyon has shown its eye. A good thing I brought my spares." On looking at these you find, to your surprise, that many blossoms which you put in only as buds have developed into fine blossoms; and you joyfully take out those deceivers on which you relied, and replace them by " spares." We have, indeed, known cases where every blossom that had been placed in the exhibition-box had failed, and had to be replaced. And now, if you have a few minutes to spare, stand by your box, and watch the other exhibitors opening theirs, and patiently await the judges. Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. Cross-Fertilisation and Pedigree Roses. In former days new varieties of Roses raised were mostly what may be called haphazard Roses; there was no attempt F 66 Roses for Amateurs. at cross-fertilisation, the seed-vessels were gathered promis- cuously, and bees and moths and the gentle summer breezes were the principal agents in fertilising. But a better state of things now exists, and what are called pedigree Roses are much in evidence. The late Mr. Henry Bennett, of Shepper- ton, near Salisbury, first began this good work, and although his earliest productions were not all that he thought them to be, he was evidently on the right track, and he produced some of the most valuable Roses that we have. One has only to mention Her Majesty, Heinrich Schultheis, Viscountess Folke- stone, and Mrs. John Laing, to show how successful he v:as. Of these, Her Majesty and Mrs. John Laing have been awarded a gold medal by the National Rose Society. Taking it all in all, the latter Rose is probably the most useful exhibition flower we have; it is good both early and late, while its blossoms are always well formed and have a very sweet perfume. Mr. Bennett at his death left behind many seedling plants ; these were purchased by various growers, and one or other of them now and then puts forward a claim to distinction. The same line of raising pedigree Roses was taken up by an Irish firm, Messrs. Alexander Dickson and Sons, of Newtownards, and their success has been of a very marked character, they having obtained many gold medals for new seedling Roses. Many of their 'Roses are exceptionally fine. Mrs. W. J. Grant was purchased by an American firm, which gave it another name, Belle Sie- brecht, but the English Rose-growers have adhered to the name for which it received the gold medal. As the firm is still flourishing there is no doubt that we shall obtain many more good Roses from it. Enumeration, In presenting the following list we have been guided to a great extent by the work of the Committee of the National Rose Society. We have given the names of the raisers and Varieties for Dacoration and Exhibition. 67 the dates at which the varieties were sent out, as these are always interesting to growers : — Hybrid Perpetuals. ABEL CARRIERS (Eugene Verdier, 1875). — Fine, dark maroon, imbri- cated ; wood very thorny ; rather inclined to mildew. A. K. WILLIAMS (J. Schwartz, 1877). — Bright carmine-red; a good autumnal bloomer. One of the most beautifully shaped Roses we have ; perfectly imbricated. Does not appear to like removal, so when it is possible it should be budded where it is to remain. ALFRED COLOMB (Lacharme, 1865). — Bright red, globular. One of those Roses which cannot be described as very vigorous, but it cannot be dispensed with ; sometimes it is hardly distinguish- able from MARIE BAUMANN. Very fragrant. BARONESS ROTHSCHILD (Fernet, 1867). — Light pink in colour; good cup-shaped ; flowers freely in autumn, but is unfortunately scentless ; cannot be done without. BEAUTY OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1862). — Bright rosy-crim- son, imbricated, very fragrant. An instance of how long a good Rose will continue in favour. BEN CANT (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1902). — Deep crimson, with slightly darker flushes in the centre; flower large and of good shape ; very sweetly scented ; an abundant bloomer. Needs a good deal of thinning. CAMILLE BERNARDIN (Gautreau, 1865). — Light crimson, paler on the edges, fragrant ; a Rose that can always be depended upon, but shoots should be tied, on account of the weighty flowers. CAPTAIN HAYWARD (Bennett, 1893). — Brilliant crimson, large, and fragrant, with well-formed long petals ; needs to be well done if to give of its best. Very free-flowering, somewhat inclined to be thin. CHARLES LEFEBVRE (Lacharme, 1861). — Identical with MARGUERITE BRASSAC and PAUL JAMAIN; it is a magnificent Rose, and can always be depended upon by the exhibitor. CLIO (Paul and Son, 1894). — Flesh pink, with deeper centre; a vigorous and good all-round Rose. COMTE DE RAIMBAUD (Roland, 1868). — Dark carmine-red, large and full ; of fine form. COUNTESS OF OXFORD (Guillot pere, 1869). — Carmine-red, large and full ; vigorous ; smooth wood ; fine foliage, and a reliable Rose when well treated. CROWN PRINCE (W. Paul and Son, 1880).— Deep crimson, with a purple shade ; vigorous, and very free-flowering. DR. ANDRY (E. Verdier, 1864). — Bright red, large, of perfect form; some of the best Roses we have seen exhibited were of this variety. Very fragrant. 68 Roses for Amateurs. DUCHESS OF BEDFORD (Postans, 1879). — Rich velvety scarlet-crimson ; full and of excellent form ; moderate grower. DUCHESSE DE MORNY (E. Verdier, 1863). — Silvery rose; globular, free-flowering, moderately vigorous; good in autumn; requires to be carefully thinned. DUKE OF CONNAUGHT (Paul and Son, 1876). — Bright, velvety-crim- son ; rather small, fit for a front Rose in an exhibition stand. DUKE OF EDINBURGH (Paul and Son, 1868).— Vermilion-red, velvety; most beautiful and useful Rose, always to be found in exhibi- tion stands, and one of those that flower freely in autumn ; should be lightly pruned. DUKE OF TECK (Paul and Son, 1880). — Vivid crimson-scarlet, some- what of the colour of the DUKE OF EDINBURGH ; large, globular flower ; a useful Rose. DUKE OF WELLINGTON (Granger, 1864). — Bright crimson, full, of fine form and free. Synonymous with ROSIERISTE JACOBS (Veuve Ducher, 1880). DUPUY JAMAIN (Jamain, 1868). — Bright cerise; large, full, and of nice fragrance ; vigorous and good autumn bloomer ; should be lightly pruned. EARL OF DUFFERIN (Alexander Dickson and Sons, 1887). — Velvety crimson with maroon shading, very fragrant ; blossoms need to be tied ; late flowering. ETIENNE LEVET (Levet, 1871). — Carmine-rose, large, shell-petalled ; smooth wooded ; very vigorous. FISHER HOLMES (E. Verdier, 1865). — Shaded crimson-scarlet; a very bright and free-flowering Rose ; good in autumn ; requires care- ful disbudding. FRANCOIS MICHELON (Levet, 1871). — Deep rose, reverse of petals silvery; exceedingly fine. FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI (P. Lambert, 1900). — Pure white, with shell- shaped petals ; flowers with high pointed centre ; large, free, and a good grower. GENERAL JACQUEMINOT (Roussel, 1853). — Crimson-scarlet, very free and fragrant. An old Rose, but one still able to carry off medals. GUSTAVE PIGANEAU (Pernet-Ducher, 1889).— Brilliant carmine-lake; very large and full ; of good form ; moderate grower. HEINRICH SCHULTHEIS (Bennett, 1882).— Pinkish-rose, bright in colour, but apt to go off when expanded. Very fragrant. HELEN KELLER (A. Dickson and Sons, 1895). — Brilliant rose-cerise; flowers large, of good substance, and having shell-shaped petals. HER MAJESTY (Bennett, 1885). — Bright satiny-rose pink; large flower, but terribly subject to mildew ; small growers should avoid it unless they hav? a separate place for it; it should be budded on the Briar ; very vigorous. HUGH DICKSON (Hugh Dickson, 1904). — Bright crimson, shaded scarlet; very fragrant; high pointed centre; vigorous. HUGH WATSON (A. Dickson, 1904). — Crimson, with carmine shading; very large ; vigorous. Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 69 LAURENCE ALLEN (Cooling, 1896). — Clear pink, large, very fragrant, and strong grower. LE HAVRE (Eude, 1871).— Vermilion-red, of good substance; not very large. General Jacqueminot (H.P.), bright crimson, globular, with pointed centre, fragrant and free; one of the best varieties, though over half-a-century old, for either decorative effect or exhibition. Louis VAN HOUTTE (Lacharme, 1869). — Bright amaranth-red; large and full, but difficult to grow. MADAME GABRIEL LUIZET (Liabaud, 1877). — Light silvery pink; one of the most beautiful pink Roses that we have ; early flowering, very free, and fragrant ; should be lightly pruned. 70 Roses for Amateurs. MADAME VICTOR VERDIER (E. Verdier, 1863). — One of our best crim- son Roses ; very free flowering, and constant. MAHARAJAH (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1904). — Deep velvety crimson; of vigorous growth and an excellent pillar Rose. MARCHIONESS OF DUFPERIH (A. Dickson and Sons, 1891).— Rosy pink; very vigorous ; imbricated. MARCHIONESS OF LONDONDERRY (A. Dickson and Sons, 1893). — Ivory- white, with large shell petals ; large and globular. MARGARET DICKSON (A. Dickson and Sons, 1891). — White, with pale pink centre. Should not be too closely pruned ; very large, and strong grower. MARIE BAUMANN (Baumann, 1863). — Soft carmine-red. One of our very best exhibition Roses, frequently obtaining the medal for the best Rose in the show. Very fragrant. MARIE RADY (Fontaine, 1865). — Bright red; very constant, and does well in a hot season. COMTESSE DE CHOISEUL is a reproduction of this. MARQUISE DE CASTELLANE (Fernet, 1869).— Clear, cherry-rose; very robust and free-flowering; constant. MAURICE BERNARDIN (Granger, 1861). — Shaded crimson; good form, and fragrant. This is identical with EXPOSITION DE BRIE (Granger, 1865). MERVEILLE DE LYON (Fernet, 1882). — White, with rosy centre; cup- shaped; free. A seedling or a sport from BARONESS ROTH- SCHILD. MRS. COCKER (Cocker, 1899). — Soft pink, with a high centre; large and full, hardy. MRS. JOHN LAING (Bennett, 1887).— Clear, bright rose, a continuous bloomer, fragrant, and always to be relied on. The best of the late Mr. Bennett's seedlings. MRS. R. G. SHARMAN CRAWFORD (A. Dickson and Sons, 1894). — Clear rosy-pink, outer petals shaded pale flesh, imbricated ; free, good in autumn. PRIDE OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1881). — Light salmon-pink. In wood and foliage very like COUNTESS OF OXFORD. PRINCE ARTHUR (B. R. Cant, 1875).— Bright crimson. A very bright form of GENERAL JACQUEMINOT. PRINCE CAMILLE DE ROHAN (E. Verdier, 1861). — Deep velvety crim- son-maroon. One of our very best dark Roses ; very free- flowering. LA ROSIERE is identical with this. SENATEUR VAISSE (Guillot pere, 1859). — Bright showy red ; fragrant; large and double ; flowers freely in autumn. STAR OF WALTHAM (W. Paul and Son, 1875). — Carmine, shaded violet. A good hot-weather Rose. SUZANNE MARIE RODOCANACHI (Leveque, 1883). — Soft rosy-cerise; very vigorous, and retains its colour when cut. TOM WOOD (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1896). — Cherry-red, with shell- sliaped petals; good form; excellent in autumn. ULRICH BRUNNER (Levet, 1881).— Bright cherry-red. A very large shell-petalled Rose of sweet fragrance, and a great favourite. Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 71 ULSTER (A. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Bright cherry-red ; very large blossoms with high pointed centre ; robust. An exhibition Rose only. VICTOR HUGO (Schwartz, 1884). — Bright crimson, shaded purple; of good form. One of the best of its colour. Teas and Noisettes. ANNA OLIVIER (Ducher, 1872). — Pale buff, flushed with rose. A distinct and beautiful Rose, very constant bloomer, but varies somewhat in colour. BRIDESMAID (N. May, 1890). — Bright pink. A sport from CATHERINE MERMET, sometimes reverting to original. CAROLINE KUSTER (Fernet, 1872). — Lemon-yellow, globular ; vigorous. CATHERINE MERMET (J. B. Guillot fils, 1869).— Light rosy flesh; very fragrant. One of the finest in its section. CLEOPATRA (Bennett, 1889). — Pale pink, edged with rose; long pointed buds; chiefly of use for exhibition. COMTESSE DE NADAiLLAC (J. B. Guillot fils, 1871). — Peach, shaded apricot, base of petals coppery; very Jarge. DEVONIENSIS (Foster, 1838). — Creamy-white, large and full. It is moderate in growth, but the sport from it, ('LIMBING DEVO- NIENSIS (Pavitt, 1858), is very vigorous, and the blossoms are identical with those of the type. The oldest of our English Tea Roses. EMPRESS ALEXANDRA OF RUSSIA (W. Paul and Son, 1897). — Lake-red. One of the darkest of our Teas. ERNEST METZ (Guillct, 1888). — Soft carmine-rose, brighter towards the centre ; globular ; vigorous. ETHEL BROWNLOW (A. Dickson and Sons, 1887). — Rosy flesh, with yellow base. A vigorous and lasting Rose ; needs careful dis- budding. GOLDEN G^TE (Dingee and Conard, 1892). — Creamy-white, with base and centre soft yellow, often tinted rose ; flowers large, and having pointed buds ; free. HON. EDITH GIFFORD (Guillot, 1882). — White, with flesh centre; very free-flowering. INNOCENTS PIROLA (Ducher, 1878). — Creamy-white; globular, with pointed centre ; very constant. LADY ROBERTS (F. Cant and Co., 1902). — Deep apricot, with base coppery red and edges shaded orange ; a vigorous sport from ANNA OLIVIER. MADAME BRAVY (Guillot pere, 1848). — White, with pink centre; very hardy and free-flowering Rose. ALBA ROSEA, JOSEPHINE MAL- TON, and MADAME DE SERTOT are similar to this Rose. MADAME CONSTANT SOUPERT (Soupert and Netting, 1905). — Golden- yellow, tinted flesh-pink; large, full, and well formed. MADAME CUSIN (Guillot fils, 1881). — Violet-rose, yellow base; very distinct and fragrant. MADAME DE WATTEVILLE (Guillot, 1883). — Cream, tinted with rose on the edges ; very distinct and fragrant ; needs careful disbudding. 72 Roses for Amateurs. MADAME HOSTE (Guillot, 1887). — Pale lemon-yellow; large and full; vigorous and free-flowering. MAMAN COCHET (Cochet, 1893). — Deep flesh, outer petals suffused with rose ; a very popular flower. There is a white sport of Catherine Mermet (T.), light rosy flesh globular, with high centre, large, free, and highly fragrant. this, WHITE MAMAN COCHET, which will probably be regarded as the best of the white Teas. MARECHAL NIEL (Pradel, 1864). — Brilliant bright golden yellow; hardly suitable for outdoor cultivation. The best of all the Noisettes. MARIE VAN HOUTTE (Ducher, 1871). — Lemon-yellow, edges of petals pink ; very hardy and free-flowering. Needs light pruning. Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 73 MEDEA (W. Paul and Son, 1891). — Lemon-yellow, with deeper centre; large and full. MRS. B. R. CANT (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1901). — Reep rose with silvery inner petals ; vigorous and free. MRS. EDWARD MAWLEY (A. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Pink, tinted carmine ; well-formed flowers of good substance ; high pointed centre ; shell-petalled. MURIEL GRAHAME (A. Dickson and Sons, 1896). — Pale cream flushed with rose. A distinct sport from CATHERINE MERMET. XIPHETOS (Bougere, 1844). — Pure white, with long pointed buds. The climbing variety is very vigorous. Very largely used for forcing by the London market gardeners. RUBENS (Robert, 1859). — White, shaded with creamy-rose. Very free- flowering and fragrant. SOUVENIR D'ELISE VARDON (Marest, 1854). — Creamy white, with yel- lowish-rose centre ; very large and globular ; foliage copper- coloured. Although at times difficult to grow, this beautiful rose should not be left out. It does best as a Half-Standard. SOUVENIR DE PIERRE NOTTING (Soupert and Netting, 1902). — Apricot- yellow, suffused coppery-yellow ; long buds ; vigorous. SOUVENIR DE S. A. PRINCE (Prince, 1889). — A white sport of SOUVENIR D'UN AMI. A very useful and constant Rose. SOUVENIR DE THERESE LEVET (Levet, 1882). — Brownish-crimson; vigorous. One of the darkest of our Tea Roses. SCUVENIR D'UN AMI (Belot Defougere, 1846). — Salmon and rose- shaded ; large and double ; a useful, hardy variety. SUNRISE (Piper, 1899). — Outer petals reddish-carmine, shading to fawn within ; needs light pruning ; suitable for growing under glass only. SYLPH (W. Paul and Son, 1895). — White, tinted peach, large and very free-flowering. THE BRIDE (May, 1885). — A white sport from CATHERINE MERMET; vigorous. Hybrid Teas. ALICE LINDSELL (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1902).— Creamy-white, with pink centre ; vigorous. ANGEL PELUFFO (Soupert and Netting, 1904). — Flesh-pink, with darker centre ; large, full, and free. BESSIE BROWN (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1899). — Creamy-white, very large flowers, of excellent substance. CAPTAIN CHRISTY (Lacharme, 1873). — Flesh colour, deeper in centre ; fine foliage. The climbing variety of this is very vigorous. CAROLINE TESTOUT (Pernet fils Ducher, 1890). — Light salmon-pink, globular ; vigorous and very distinct. COUNTESS OF CALEDON (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1897). — Carmine- rose ; large and full. COUNTESS OF DERBY (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1905). — Salmon with rosy edges; large and full. 74 Roses for Amateurs. Ka.iscrin Au gusta Victoria (H.T.). white, with yellow centre; a vigorous variety. Varieties for Decoration and Exhibition. 75 DEAN HOLE (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1904). — Silvery carmine, with salmon shading ; high centre. A very fine variety. DUCHESS OF ALBANY (W. Paul and Son, 1888). — Dark pink. A deeper-coloured LA FRANCE. EARL OF WARWICK (W. Paul and Son, 1904). — Soft salmon-pink, shaded bright red in centre ; of good form. EDITH D'OMBRAIN (A. Dickson and Sons, 1902). — White, with a pink tinge; large, full, imbricated flowers; robust. FLORENCE PEMBERTON (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1902). — Creamy- white, with pink edges. GRANDE DUCHESSE VICTORIA MELITA (Lambert, 1897). — Creamy-white, with light yellow centre ; vigorous. KAISERIN AUGUSTA VICTORIA (Lambert and Reiter, 1891).— Cream, shaded lemon ; vigorous. A distinct light Rose, very nearly a pure Tea. KILLARNEY (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1898). — Flesh, shaded white, suffused pale pink ; flowers large, with pointed bud ; free. LADY MOYRA BEAUCLERC (A. Dickson and Sons, 1901). — Bright madder-rose, with silvery-white reflex ; very large flowers ; vigorous. LA FRANCE (J. B. Guillot fils, ,1867). — Silvery rose, with pale lilac shading ; free-flowering, and very fragrant. A general favourite. MADAME CADEAU RAMEY (Pernet Ducher, 1896). — Carmine-rose, with yellow shading. Large and free. MARQUISE LITTA (Pernet Ducher, 1893). — Carmine-rose, with brighter centre ; very distinct in colour ; early and vigorous. MILDRED GRANT (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1901). — Ivory-white, suf- fused pale peach ; very large flowers of fine substance. MRS. W. J. GRANT (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1895).— Bright rosy- pink ; vigorous ; very free-flowering. This is synonymous with BELLE SIEBRECHT. PAPA LAMBERT (P. Lambert, 1899). — Salmon-rose, with deeper shadings in the centre ; large flowers and long pointed buds. VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE (Bennett, 1886). — Creamy-white, with salmon-pink shadings in the centre ; large, full flowers of exqui- site shape, free. YVONNE VACHEROT (Soupert and Netting, 1905). — China-white, with pink markings ; long pointed buds. In the above enumeration the following in their respective sections must be classed as Exhibitors' Roses pure and simple; the remainder may be regarded as of general use as well: — Hybrid Perpetual* : A. K. Williams, Camille Bernardin, Duchess of Bedford, Duchesse de Morny, Earl of Dufferin, Francois Michelon, Gustave Piganeau, Helen Keller, Le Havre, Louis Van Houtte, Marchioness of Lon- 76 Roses for Amateurs. donderry, Victor Hugo. Teas and Noisettes: Cleopatra, Comtesse de Naclaillac, Ernest Metz, Innocente Pirola, Madame Cusin, Madame de Watteville, Muriel Grahame, Souvenir d'Elise Vardon. Hybrid Teas: Captain Christy, Mildred Grant, Papa Lambert. Garden Roses. Comprehensiveness of the Term. The previous sections have chiefly dealt with what are usually designated Exhibition Roses. There are, however, other classes of Roses, which were once more largely cultivated, but which have given place in great part to the more satis- factory Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, and Teas. There is, in truth, much illusion on this subject. We hear people talk a great deal about old-fashioned Roses, and go into raptures about the old Cabbage and the Damask and York and Lancaster Roses, which, it is said, are pushed into the background by their more pretentious rivals ; but, in truth, we have in our Exhibition Roses many with a perfume quite as strong as that of the old Cabbage, while the delicate fragrance of the Tea, Hybrid Tea, and Noisette Roses gives us another kind of perfume, to many more pleasing than the others. "Oh!" but some say, "there are the single Roses; w^hat more lovely than even the wild Dog Rose?" There are some of them, doubtless, very beautiful, but they are evanescent ; and we must remember that in all these Garden Roses \ve have but one season of blossoming — they come in with a rush in June, and when that beautiful wealth of blossom is over they are simply green bushes for the remainder of the season ; while you may gather from Hybrid Perpetuals from day to day blossoms which, if not equal to the summer ones, are still very lovely, and in the Teas and Hybrid Teas you may, up to the very end of October, Garden Roses. 77 obtain lovely and sweet-scented flowers. Some persons seem to expect that these Garden Roses are to be a thing of beauty for the whole summer, but there can be no greater mistake than this ; and if they imagine that by growing garden York and Lancaster Roses (Damask). Roses they are to have this enjoyment, the sooner they give up the idea the better, and the less disappointment they will experience; they will have a grand mass of blossom for about three weeks, and then nothing more for the remainder 78 Roses for Amateurs. of the twelve months. With regard to York and Lancaster Roses, it may be stated that two varieties are sold under this name. The true type is flat white, striped with red, or sometimes half red or half white and at others all red or all white flowers on same stem. The variety often sold as York and Lancaster is Rosa Mundi, red with white stripes. Many classes of Roses are requisitioned to make up what by Rose specialists are familiarly known as Garden Roses. There are, as we have already said, those old Roses of our childhood, which many remember with so much affec- tion, and also a number of single or nearly single Roses, such as macrantha, Paul's Carmine Pillar, Bardou Job, Paul's Royal Scarlet, &c. ; all the single and nearly single Sweet Briars ; and that remarkable Rose, Crimson Rambler, which created such a furore a few years ago. Into this class also are relegated, as already suggested, many Roses which for- merly were placed amongst exhibition flowers but, having been distanced by new varieties, are retained for their decora- tive qualities and freedom of flowering, such as John Hopper, Jules Margottin, and Gloire de Margottin ; some of the Tea and Noisette flowers, which for peculiarity of colouring are greatly admired, and without which no Rose-garden would be complete — for who would like to be without William Allen Richardson, Madame Chedane Guinoisseau, or L'Ideal? We will a little later on deal with the more noteworthy of these sections. Roses for Specific Purposes. " Climbing " and Weeping Roses. In former days there were all sorts of fanciful designs for training Roses over trellises, arches, etc., but after a time these fell into desuetude, only to be revived some years after. Pillars or poles are now largely used, and some of the varieties of what are called " climbing " Roses (for Roses for Specific Purposes. 79 there is really no such thing as a climbing Rose— that is, one which lays hold of anything to support it, as a Clematis) will do for this purpose ; but there are many which, by their long and vigorous shoots, answer the same purpose when those shoots are nailed or tied in. There are nowadays to be seen weeping Rose-trees, a comparatively recent section, and one with a fair following. Perhaps one of the most effective ways of using Climbing Roses is by training them up the trunks of trees, amongst the branches of which their brilliant flowers showr to perfection. Pergolas. These Italian introductions into English gardens have taken a firm hold, and, when properly located, they are most welcome additions. Still, the craze for the pergola has been so great that we see it " dragged " into a most unsuitable environment. Generally speaking, the pergola in the villa garden is quite out of keeping. In some few instances we have noted it used to separate, say, the lawn and herbaceous bor- ders from the kitchen garden ; but even for this purpose it is open to doubt whether a hedge of Sweetbriar or of Rosa rugosa would not be more in keeping with the sur- roundings. Pergolas may be made at a very small cost with larch poles, and the average everyday structure so called consists of uprights, cross-pieces at the top, and angular pieces running from the uprights to the top. Where a still more pretentious effect is aimed at (though in taste it is question- able) chains are made to depend in various ways that fancy may dictate. Varieties for this purpose are very numerous, though the following selection should meet the re- quirements of most amateurs : — Dorothy Perkins, Turner's Crimson Rambler, Paul's Carmine Pillar, Alister Stella Gray, Blush Rambler, Bennett's Seedling (Thoresbyana), Mme. Alfred Carriere, Reve d'Or, Gardenia, and Paul's Single White. 8o Roses for Amateurs. Pillar Roses The practice of growing Roses on what are termed pillars is an increasing one, and so long as they are kept going it is an exceedingly pretty one ; but in by far the majority of cases in amateurs' gardens this method of cultivation does not appear to be a success. There are numberless ways in which the " pillar " may be " built," and firms like Barnards make a speciality of everything required for this form of Rose cultivation, from the modest single pillar to the complicated umbrella-like erection. Excellent varieties are Crimson Ram- bler, Reine Marie Henriette, Dorothy Perkins, Longworth Rambler, Reine Olga de Wurtemberg, Zephirine Drouhin, R. macrantha, Alister Stella Gray, and Mrs. O. G. Orpen, William Allen Richardson, Ard's Rover, Climbing Aimee Vibert, and Ard's Pillar. For shorter pillars, Blairii No. 2, Griiss an Teplitz, Madame Plantier, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, and Leuchtstern (see illustration) will be suitable. Rose Arches. There is one kind of Rose decoration which is admirable when well carried out, viz., Rose arches. A walk thus treated, when properly done, is a very pretty sight ; but alas ! one sees too often the most unsuitable Roses used and the arches formed in a most slovenly manner. If this is to be attempted, there are a few practical hints that must be borne in mind. In the first place, the arches must be of iron- wood is next to useless, for by the time the Roses cover it it will begin to rot away, especially if the Roses push vigor- ously. Three upright pillars should be placed about ift. back from the edge of the path, and if a series of arches is determined on they should be not nearer to one another than 6ft., and would, perhaps, be better 8ft. or gft. apart. The next point is that suitable Roses should be employed ; one very often sees utter failure from a neglect of this simple rule — people think sometimes that any Roses for Specific Purposes, Si long-growing Rose will do, which is by no means the case. There are comparatively few that are suitable, and especially is this the case with red Roses j but red is a favourite colour, and so people run the risk of utter failure. The following Roses may be relied upon as rampant growers, and many of them are nearly evergreen in foliage : — Longworth Ram- bler, a light crimson -coloured Rose, abundant in blossoming and nearly evergreen ; and Reine Marie Henriette, a very free grower, and producing large red flowers ; Cheshunt Hybrid, a Hybrid Tea, like the two preceding, but somewhat dull in colour, yet very fine ; Felicite Perpetue, a hardy, vigorous Ro'Se, with very dark green foliage, and covered with immense quantities of whitish flowers ; Reve d?Or, a Noisette of a most desirable character, splendid in growth, and really beautiful for its foliage alone, the young growth being of a bright red colour, while the flowers are buff-yellow ; and William Allen Richardson, a deep orange- coloured Rose, small in size, but vigorous in growth, and very striking in colour. Climbing Aimee Vibert, so profuse in its clusters of lovely white flowers, deserves a place in garden decoration. There are also a few species of Roses which would answer very well : Rosa indie a anemones -flora, white, makes long, vigorous shoots, and is handsome in foliage. Then there are R. Brunonis (syn. R. prcecox), with long shoots, and Rosa multi-flora (syn. R. poly ant ha), a Japanese species ; the growth of the latter is vigorous, its flowers are produced in great abundance, and it is most deliciously scented. Other varieties for the purpose are Mme. Alfred Carriere, Dundee Rambler, Splendens, and Bennett's Seedling. Of these the first is a Hybrid Noisette, and the last three are Ayrshires. We do not consider the Roses of the Gloire de Dijon type are suitable for Rose arches ; their shoots are, it is true, very vigorous, and they blossom profusely, but the scarcity of foliage and the long, tall, straggling shoots unfit them for G 82 Roses for Amateurs. this purpose, however delightful they may be in more suitable places. Another point in the arrangement of an arch is that the Roses planted on it should be of one variety only. People may admire the mingling of colour produced by planting different Roses, but it is most desirable that the whole arch should be in flower at the same time, for it is unpleasant to see half of it covered with decaying flowers and the other half with fresh ones. Variety may be gained by planting them alter- nately in colour, thus: Arch No. i, Longworth Rambler; 2, Aimee Vibert ; 3, Reine Marie Henrietta; 4, W. Allen Richardson; 5, Cheshunt Hybrid; 6, Reve d'Or; and so on. The centre walk of the garden treated judiciously in this way will present a very pleasing sight. Barnards, Ltd., Norwich, make a feature of Rose Arches; while Walters and Co., of Water Lane, Great Tower Street, E.G., specialise in Trellises, &c. Hoses for Walls, &c. The varieties enumerated for arches are suitable, or many of them, for covering walls, outhouses, porches, and such-like ; and in many situations the Gloire de Dijon race are much at home, and quite suitable. Fortune's Yellow, Lamarque, and Madame Berard are other excellent Roses for walls. Blairii No. 2 is also a very good Rose, but then it is but a summer Rose, and its beauty is soon gone. One must not forget the Old China, and its ally, Cramoisie Supe- rieure, associated as these are with one's earliest garden days, and bringing with them many a sweet reminder. How beauti- ful the dark crimson one is when seen pushing its shoots high up in the shrubberies, and mingling with the foliage of other trees ! One of these Roses will rapidly cover the stem of a tree ; and in a shrubbery, where there are often blanks, no better way of filling them up can be devised than that of planting one of these so-called climbing Roses. Other lovely Classification of Garden Roses. 83 varieties for the purpose are Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Reve d'Or, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Francois Crousse, Zephirine Drouhin, Bouquet d'Or, and Ards Rover. The last two will do admirably even on a north wall. Weeping Roses. We have already briefly alluded to these in passing. They consist in the main of standards of a certain height, and preferably Roses of the Ayrshire type. Still, even given the very best specimens to start with, not much can be done unless very careful after-treatment is meted out. For the first year at least it is usual to prune back the trees somewhat hard to induce them to make long, vigorous, floriferous shoots, afterwards regulating them as may become necessary. We have seen such Roses employed with beautiful effect on a lawn. All the Rose specialists now sell these Weeping varieties. Brief Classification of Garden Roses. Austrian Briar (Rosa lutea). Varieties useful for their early-flowering properties and distinctive coloration. Beyond a somewhat hard pruning the first spring after planting, little else is needed. Austrian Copper, Austrian Yellow, Harrisonii, Persian Yellow, and Soleil d'Or are varieties to make a note of. Ayrshire Roses (Rosa repens hybrida). Most useful varieties for banks, old tree-stumps, &c., if given a sunny position. Little or no pruning is needed. Good varieties are Alice Gray, Bennett's Seedling, Dundee Rambler, Ruga, and Splendens. Ba^nksian Roses. Lovely Roses suited only for a south wall and a fairly good soil. After the first pruning in the spring succeeding G 2 84 Roses for Amateurs. planting, all that need be done is to remove old and exhausted wood after flowering. The yellow variety is the favourite. Bourbon Roses. Chiefly valued as autumn Roses and from the fact that several of the varieties make excellent town plants. Pruning Austrian Briar Rose Austrian Yellow p. 83). will depend largely upon the individual, as these Roses vary much in character. The vigorous varieties (of which the time-honoured Souvenir de la Malmaison is a type) need only have their strongest shoots slightly shortened. Weak-grow- ing, on the other hand, need more severe priming. Mrs. Paul with the variety already named (Zephirine Drouhin) should be grown, while other excellent types are Setmay Hermosa (Armosa) and Mme. Isaac Periere. Classification of Garden Roses. 85 Boursault Roses. Where a variety is required that is likely to succeed almost anywhere in town or in country, Inermis Morlettii may be selected. Shorten the tips of the shoots in spring and thin out weak and exhausted wood. Chinese or Monthly Roses (Rosa indica and R. semper- florens). Free-flowering hardy Roses, best grown in a sunny spot. They are excellent for massing in beds ; while the Common type and that known as Old Crimson are often used for making Rose-hedges. All the pruning that they need is a shortening back of the strongest shoots in late spring. Varie- ties to grow are Aurore, Cramoisie Superieure, Comtesse du Cayla, Ducher, Irene Watts, Laurette Messimy, Queen Mab, Red Pet, and White Pet. Damask Roses (Rosa damascena). Hardy, very fragrant varieties, most satisfactory as bushes, though there are some that lend themselves to wall or pillar cultivation — Mrs. O. G. Orpen and Lady Curzon lor example. Other desirable varieties are York and Lan- caster (see illustration, p. 77), Lady Sarah Wilson, Red Damask, and Village Maid. Not much pruning is called for. Evergreen Roses (Rosa sempervirens). Very hardy Roses for walls, pillars, &c. ; or they may be had as Weeping varieties. Donna Maria, Felicite Per- petue, and Myrianthes Renoncule are excellent, the first especially. Only the tips of long shoots should be removed ; but the weakly ones may be cut out. Hybrid Sweetbriars. A section that has acquired great popularity is that known as Lord Penzance's Hybrid Sweetbriars. In the " Rosarians' 86 Roses for Amateurs. Year-Book " for 1892 the late Lord Penzance described the manner in which he had undertaken his experiments, and he told some curious facts which were elicited in the course of his efforts. He found, for instance, that when the Sweetbriar is used as the mother plant the progeny all retain the sweet- scented foliage, while when other Roses are hybridised with it, it is not so. The best way to utilise them is by forming a hedge or covering a fence with them, and also by budding them as Standards and allowing them to have perfect freedom of growth, only slightly shortening the long shoots as occasion requires ; they thus form pleasing objects in the shrubbery or on the lawn, while the fragrance of their foliage makes them especially grateful. They are mostly single, though some of them have two rows of petals. Good varieties are Amy Robsart, Anne of Geierstein, Flora M'lvor, Hebe's Lip, Janet's Pride, Lady Penzance, Lord Penzance, Meg Merrilies, and Rose Bradwardine. After the first spring, when they should be pruned somewhat hard, nothing beyond the removal of dead and useless wood is called for. Macartney Roses (Rosa bracteata). Somewhat tender Roses, requiring the shelter of a warm wall, and calling for scarcely any pruning. Marie Leonida, Rosa Lucida, and its double form are all worth culti- vating. Moss Roses (Rosa centifolia muscosa). There is no Rose which is a more general favourite than the Moss Rose ; and, in truth, when in bud, it is most lovely. It is easily grown, and, where room can be afforded, there is no better way than that of growing it in a bed, pegged down. The long shoots being laid down, other shoots are thrown up from the axils, and a profusion of blossom is obtained ; while Gladioli may be inserted amongst them, which will show their foliage and flowers after the Roses have finished. It is Classification of Garden Roses. 87 advisable where the soil is light to have these Roses on their own roots, thereby avoiding the vexatious suckers ; but where the soil is heavy, they are better worked on the Briar. Like other Roses, they will be improved by a good mulching in November, and this may be lightly forked in in February. Gloire des Polyantha, an excellent dwarf variety for beds and edges. When they are grown in the border, the same treatment may be applied ; but although there are differences of opinion on the subject, we believe that they require hard pruning. Excellent varieties are Blanche Moreau, Comtesse de Murinais, De Meaux, Gloire des Mousseuses, Lanei, Little Gem, White Bath, Crested, Gracilis, and Celina. 8S Roses for Amateurs. Musk R^oses (Rosa moschata). As the name suggests, these Roses are characterised by a musk-like odour. They are rapid-growing, requiring scarcely any pruning. The flowers are borne in clusters. The follow- ing are desirable : Princesse de Nassau and Rivers' Musk. Polyantha Roses (Rosa poly antha). A beautiful section containing both Dwarf and Climbing varieties. Indeed, to this belongs the beautiful Crimson Leuchtstern (Polyantha), bright rose, with white eye, single flower; resembles the well-known Crimson Rambler in habit. Rambler. Of the Dwarfs, Anna Marie de Montravel, Gloire des Polyantha (see illustration), Aschenbrodel, Clothilde Soupert, Leonie Lamesch, Ma Paquerette, Perle d'Or, and Schneewitchen are excellent. In the Climbing section, besides Crimson Rambler, there are Aglaia, Claire Jacquier, Euphrosyne, Grandi flora, Leuchtstern (see illustration), and Thalia. Little pruning is required in either section beyond Classification of Garden Roses. 89 shortening the tips of the strong shoots, and cutting out the weak and exhausted wood of the Climbers. Provence Roses (Rosa centifolia). Delightful Roses that need to be closely pruned. Desirable varieties are : Cabbage, Commandant Beaurepaire, Crested, and Unique. Raman as Roses (Rosa rugosa). For hedges and shrubberies these are well adapted, being admired alike for their flowers and brilliant " heps." No pruning beyond the removal of useless wood is needed after the first spring. Of varieties the following may be recom- mended : Alba, Atropurpurea, Blanc Double de Coubert, Mme. Georges Bruant, Nova Zembla, Fimbriata, Conrad F. Meyer, and Repens Alba. Though the beautiful " heps " are quite as decorative as the flowers, yet they are badly attacked by birds unless some preventive measures be taken. Bentley's Quassia preparation is as good as anything to spray on the plants. Scotch Roses (Rosa spinosissima). Very thorny Roses, needing no pruning after the first season. Stamvell Perpetual is one of the earliest as well as one of the latest to flower. Wichuraiana (Lucia:) Hybrids. A comparatively new section, and a most useful one, the varieties being adapted for banks, arches, pergolas, or for pegging down in beds. No pruning is necessary. Dorothy Perkins, Eliza Robichon, Gardenia, Hiawatha, Manda's Triumph, Pink Roamer, and Rene Andre, are all to be recommended. If a further selection be needed of these distinctive Roses, then we would suggest Lady Gay, Wichuraiana Rubra, Auguste Barbier, Edmund Proust, and Jersey Beauty. 90 Roses for Amateurs. Rose Friends and Foes. Few plants, and certainly none that may be regarded as universally popular, suffer like the Rose from the unwelcome attention of pests. To give anything like a complete enumeration would need a volume : all that is possible here is to deal with what may be rightly regarded as the worst and to furnish either preventive or remedial measures. It is scarcely necessary to add that, belonging as the insect and other pests do to widely -different Orders, there is no preparation that is suited for all : each must really be dealt with individually. And similarly with regard to the fungi. A moment's reflection, so far as most animal pests are concerned, should suffice to show that a preparation that might with benefit be employed against an insect that chews would be of little avail against one that sucks — the caterpillars of the Sawflies and the widely- prevalent and numerous species of Aphides are excellent examples of the two sections. There are many others. To those who appreciate good decorative flowers, or who require show specimens, it is absolutely necessary that the plants be kept free from pests of all kinds. As an alphabetical enumeration of these under the two headings proposed would seem to be the one tending to facility of reference this has been adopted. So accustomed are we to regard as harmful, and with truth, the majority of insects found in the garden that we are apt to lose sight of the comparative few that are working in the interest of man. It is with the idea of assisting in the pre- servation of these latter that we would briefly refer to the way that many of the worst enemies of the Rose are held in check by certain insects that often, being found side by side with the pests, are liable to be destroyed. Apart from the actual insecticide or fungicide employed, there is another point that is too frequently overlooked as of little importance — namely, the spraying agent. This is Rose Friends and Foes. 91 a great mistake. The object of the operator should be to cover the plant with a fine mist-like spray, and not to leave small " pools " of water on the foliage. White's Abol Syringe with spraying attachments is an excellent appliance that is within the reach of everyone who can afford to grow Roses. Animal. Ants. Almost invariably found wherever Aphides appear, these industrious creatures must be sought for and destroyed. as they inflict not a little injury on the flowers, alike when expanded and in the bud. The nests should also be got rid of if in an accessible place. White's Superior Abol is excellent for this. Earwigs. There can be little doubt that these familiar insects are injurious to Rose-flowers, in which they frequently remain concealed during the day. Trapping by means of rolls of crumpled paper, old dusters, and the like, placed on the trees in the evening and visited the next morning, is the best means of thinning them down. The traps should be opened over a vessel of water, into which the creatures will drop. Eelworms (Anguillulida). On account of their small size and abundance in soils used for potting these creatures may readily be introduced. Or, again, they may actually be present in the roots of newly-planted Roses. We therefore advocate that all Rose- roots should be carefully examined, and if any present to the eye an appearance of distortion they should be rejected. Preventive measures, as regards potting-soil, should always be taken by having it stacked for a considerable time before- hand, and arranging between each layer a good sprinkling 92 Roses for Amateurs. of mustard dross if it can be procured. Kainit, similarly treated, might also prove effectual. As Eehvorms are barely visible to the unaided eye, the soil will need to be carefully examined. In form, as the popular name suggests, they resemble eels. Each extremity of the body is pointed, and the creature measures just about a millimetre. Frog Hopper (Typhlocyba Rosce). Related to the Aphides, these disgusting-looking creatures, at . any rate in the larval state when they are surrounded by the protective secretion that has given rise to the popular name of " Cuckoo Spit," prove weakening to Roses if present in any numbers. Bentley's Quassia Solution, if applied early in the season, will make the bushes distasteful to the insects. Gardo and White's Abol may also be usefully applied. The perfect insects have marvellous leaping powers, and are seldom identified by the Rosarian. The larvae are helpless when the protective covering is removed. Gall-Flies. Several species of Gall Fly of the genus Rhodites make most conspicuous galls on wild and cultivated Roses ; but it is a moot point whether or not any great amount of harm is done by their presence. Still, the galls are such well- known objects, particularly the large Bedeguar one, that those interested in Roses are, sooner or later, almost certain to make its acquaintance. We have, therefore, deemed it advisable briefly to refer to the interesting little insects responsible for such a structure as the Bedeguar. This is well shown in the illustration. The grubs actually responsible for the "galls" live in the "cells" shown in the section of gall in the illustration ; they also become pupae therein, and finally emerge as black insects of the form shown. Another species, R. centi folia, makes Rose Friends and Foes. 93 galls on the foliage of certain cultivated Roses ; but here, again, we are unable to trace any appreciable Galls and Insects of Rhodites Rosa:, showing (I) Entire Bedeguar Gall; (2) Bedeguar, cut open; (3) Grub, natural size; (4) Head of Grub, magnified ; (5) Pupa, magnified; (6) Insect, magnified. harm to the plants. The Bedeguar galls should be cut out and burnt if their presence is considered objection- able. 94 Roses for Amateurs. Greenfly (Aphides]. Three or four species of Aphis infest Roses, causing alike by their abstraction of sap and by their blocking up the breathing-pores of the leaves wide- spread damage. Being sucking insects, it is useless to attempt to combat them by employing the poisons recommended for chewing insects, like Sawfly larvae. Gardo, Abol, and V2 Fluid may all be effectually used ; while hot water (three gallons) to which is added a small piece of soft soap (the size of a walnut) previously melted in a little water, stirring carefully, will serve to keep the pests at bay until more radical measures can be adopted. The illustration shows one of the commonest of Aphis species found on Roses. It is much magnified, as may be gathered from the line at the side showing the natural length of the insect. Hover-Flies. Belonging to the family Syrphidce (order Diptera) are certain very familiar Flies from their habit of hovering over flowers and from their Bee- or Wasp-like appearance. The larvae of many of these are extremely useful to the Rose- grower, as they feed entirely upon the Aphides, and their appetite seems well-nigh insatiable. They are maggot-like creatures, having leech-like movements — that is, they are able to contract or to lengthen the body at will. The body tapers considerably, the fore-part being pointed. The movements of these larvae may be watched as they stretch out the head to seize, and eventually to suck dry, the unlucky Aphis. All Syrphids found on plants should be carefully preserved. Rosae)- Rose Friends and Foes. 95 Ichneumon Flies. Quite a number of species of the Ichneumonidce render splendid service to the Rose-cultivator by reason of their parasitic habits. As larvae they live inside certain Lepido- pterous larvae, thus tending to preserve the balance in Nature. The " ichneumoned " caterpillars of the White Butterflies are objects that are familiar to almost every schoolboy. Ichneumon Flies belong to the order Hymenoptera, thus being allied to Bees, Ants, and Wasps. June Bugs and Cockchafers (Phyllopertha horticola and Melolontha vulgaris). As in the case of the Rose-chafer, the Bracken Clocks (P. horticola) are addicted to the gnawing of the organs of Female and Male Cockchafers (Melolontha vulgaris). reproduction of Roses, and are most objectionable on that account. They resemble small Cockchafers (M . vulgaris). This latter is no less injurious, as the perfect insects will attack the leafage of Roses ; while the larvae feed on the roots of many plants. Beetles, so well known, do not call for any description, more especially as we give an excellent illustration of the larger insects — the Cockchafers. During dull weather the creatures may be shaken into an opened umbrella and destroyed. They are on the wing during May, June, and July, and the June Bugs may often be captured in numbers by the aid of a butterfly-net. 96 Roses for Amateurs. La.cewing Flies and Hemerobius. Though probably as common as the Ladybirds, the useful Lacewing Flies, clad in garments of resplendent green, and provided with eyes of the loveliest golden-yellow, that look like miniature precious stones, are seldom recog- nised except by entomologists. Lacewing Flies are slender- looking creatures, whose appearance and general structure are not likely to impress the ordinary observer with the fact that they are capable of rendering excellent aid in the garden. Yet such they can and undoubtedly do, and, moreover, like the Ladybirds, are useful alike as perfect insects and as larvae (they have more than a superficial resemblance to Lady- bird grubs). Lacewing Flies belong to the order Neuroptera. Though beautiful to look at, the smell they emit is most objectionable. Indeed, on the latter account, they are known by the popular and appropriate name of Stink Flies. The eggs, too, are noteworthy, being found at the end of long stalks. Usually, the Lacewing Fly larvae hunt the " Greenfly," and suck them dry by means of some peculiarly constructed " spears," leaving the dry bodies. Occasionally, however, they clothe themselves with the skins of their victims, much after the manner of certain Hemerobius larvae. These latter, as well as the Lacewing Flies (Chryso- pits), larvae, and stalked eggs, should be carefully preserved. Ladybirds. These Beetles, in both the perfect and the larval stage, are of the greatest benefit to the Rose-cultivator, as they destroy vast quantities of Greenfly. Be- fore, therefore, syringing a Rose-bush against Aphides, it would be well to see whether any of the very useful Lady- Grub of Seven-spotted birds and their larvae are there. The Ladybird (enlarged). Beetles themselves will be readily recognised, though their larvae (see illustration) may not be. Rose Friends and Foes. 97 Leaf -cutting Bee (Megachile). To this genus belongs a species that lays the Rose foliage under contribution for the provision of its nest. Most people have seen the result of the operation of this clever insect-architect, though they know little or nothing about the creature responsible for the condition. The Marechal Niel Rose is particularly resorted to by the female for the wherewithal to furnish her nest. The pieces of leaf are removed with mathematical ac- curacy, and the opera- tion is performed in a few seconds, the insect poising herself the while. The accompany- ing illustration shows the disfigured Rose foli- age. Nothing can be done to prevent the bees from cutting the foliage — at least nothing that Rose Foliage Attacked by Leaf-cutting Bees. we are acquainted with, and we have tried quassia solution sprayed on the foliage and the planting of strong-smelling subjects in the near vicinity of such varieties as are usually attacked. Moths. Like the Sawflies, the species of Moths (or rather their larvae) inflicting damage upon Rose-trees are extremely numerous. Some are very large, and their depredations so 98 Roses for Amateurs. severe that they can be readily traced ; others are amongst the smallest of all lepidopterous larvae, difficult to find and still more difficult to classify. In the first-named category must be classed the Buff-Tip Moth (Pygcera buce-phala). The Moth is so well known that with the illustration given no description is necessary. The caterpillar is of a dull yellowish colour, elegantly transversely banded with orange, and also having some blackish lines. On account of Buff-tip Moth (Male), Pupa and Larva. their large size the caterpillars soon do a lot of mischief. These may be shaken from the trees on to sticky paper arranged beneath; or their food-plant may be readily poisoned. Other large-sized caterpillars that are equally objection- able are those of the Gold-Tail Moth (Liparis aurifttia), a somewhat general feeder, but particularly partial to Rosaceous plants. As may be judged from the illustration, it is a striking insect, and in colour a combination of black, red, and white, with large tufts of whitish hairs proceeding from the middle row of tubercles. It is double- Rose Friends and Foes, 99 brooded. Nor must the Lackey Moth (Clisiocampa neustria) be forgotten, for although not now as common as it at one time was, owing to the war that has been waged upon it, yet it is sufficiently so to constitute a pest where it occurs. Like the last species, the larva is a conspicuous insect ; it is reddish-orange colour on the upper surface, with a white stripe down the cen- tre of the back, a bluish-grey head, and at the sides orange- red, blue, and black. In the young stage the insects are less showily marked, and at first live socially in a common web. It is then that they are readily destroyed ; while the vigilant Rose-cultivator would probably have noticed the ' ' rings ' ' of eggs disposed around the shoots when the tree was bare of foliage, and forthwith burnt them. Closely allied to the Gold-Tail Moth is the Vapourer (Orgyia antiqua), whose tufted and still more strik- ing caterpillars, with their paint-brush-like tufts, often do a lot of damage to Rose foliage. It is very common in gardens, feeds on a variety of trees and shrubs, and is a most unwelcome visitor in any garden. The larva is the " Hop Cat " of the hop-fields. This is one of the Moths having wingless spider-like females, and therefore H 2 Caterpillar of Gold-tail Moth (Liparis auriflua) ioo Roses for Amateurs. grease-banding as practised against similar pests on fruit- trees might be tried as a preventive measure. Then we have a near relation of the Old Lady (Mania Maura), whose larvae are extremely fond of our choice Auriculas, in the Gothic (Ncenia typica). When young it is gregarious like the Lackey Moth already referred to, and it is then that it can be me t Larva of Vapourer Moth (Orgyia antiqua). effectually got rid of. Later, when its large greyish -yellow, brown-freckled caterpillars are on the wander, they are more difficult to deal with. Belonging to the Sub-family Notodontida are two exceed- ingly common Moths whose caterpillars favour the Rose — Hydriomena badiata and //. nigrofasciaria (derivata). Both caterpillars are green, that of the former species being dark Rose Friends and Foes. 101 olive or purplish, with conspicuous white dots, a yellowish line in the vicinity of the black spiracles, and an orange or purplish-brown head ; that of the latter being pale green, much slenderer, and having a triangular mark below the head and on the back five diamond-like markings. These cater- pillars are well over an inch in length. The above-named practically exhaust the larger caterpillars feeding upon the Roses. To keep them in check one or other of the insecti- cides named for Sawfly grubs may be requisitioned, combined with hand-picking, tree-shaking over papers smeared with an adhesive, &c. We now come to a still more difficult group — those that feed in spun-together and rolled-up leaves, and for which finger and thumb must be used to give them their quietus while in their comparatively safe retreats. Of these Caccecia (Tortrix) podana (pyrastrana), Pandemis (Tortrix) ribeana, Acalla (T.) variegana, Eucosma, ochroleucana, Nepticula centifolielld (makes long galleries in the leaves), and Tortrix Bergmanniana may be named as among the worst. Some may be found both in the open and under glass from April to June. To describe each one individually would hardly be worth the space. Those interested might refer to some work on Lepidoptera, and particularly the section devoted to Tortrices. Perhaps if the trees were sprayed early with Gardo, White's Abol, or with XL All insecticide this would act as a deterrent ; but personally we have not found any such measures of much avail. Then there is the Winter Moth (Cheimatobia brumatd), which is such a pest on fruit-trees, and against which grease- banding in October would seem to be the most practical preventive measure. The ' ' grease ' ' would have to be renewed as often as it became ineffectual. The species is a most abundant one and ubiquitous ; the caterpillars will, if not prevented, defoliate a tree in a comparatively short time. 102 Roses for Amateurs. Rabbits. In some gardens Rabbits are extremely troublesome, and great is the havoc that they will inflict upon a bed of Tea Roses. The partiality of the rodents for this particular class of Rose is well known. Probably some of the " smears/' as used for the larger trees, might be usefully employed. Trapping and means of prevention of their gain- ing access are all that can be suggested. Red Spider (Tetranychus telarius). Alike under glass and in the open these Spider-like mites are most troublesome. Outdoors they are usually found during spells of dry hot weather. If, however, the foliage is kept well syringed, using a weak solution of Kerosene Emulsion, the foes may be kept at bay. Under glass Gishurst Compound will prove effectual. The mites are only with diffi- culty seen by the unaided eye; but the yellowish and generally weak - looking foliage should betray the presence of the creature. The much-magnified illus- tration gives an excellent idea of its form. If the under -surf aces of such foli- age as ha.s turned prema- Red Spider (Tetranychus tciarius). turely yellow be carefully (Magnified 130 diameters.) examined, the chances are that Red Spider will be found responsible for the mischief. Further, that a dense web has been spun over the surface, in Rose Friends and Foes. 103 which are enclosed eggs and numbers of the mites them- selves in varying stages of their existence. R^ose-beetle or Rosechafer (Cetonia auratd). So brilliant in colour and so beautiful in structure is this insect that we scarcely like ruthlessly to condemn it. Yet from the damage it does to the sexual organs of Roses, &c., it certainly de- serves to be regarded as a pest. It is one of the Beetles that anyone may readily identify, so distinctive are its colour and markings ; #• While, like the majority Rose-beetle or Rosechafer. of its relatives, it may (Cetonia aurala). be known when about to fly by the half-expanded instead of wholly expanded wing-cases (see illustration). This is a well- known characteristic of certain Cetoniidce. Green of the most brilliant colour adorns its wing-cases ; while these are as if burnished with the finest gold. Further, they are orna- mented with a number of impressed dots, some wavy and whitish marks, and lines, all of which add to the beauty. Contrary to the usual order of things, the grubs (always found as if bent in a semicircle) are not destructive to the plants on which the Beetles are usually found; they pass their larval state in decaying wood. Hand-picking is the only remedy. Sawflies. Whether regarded by their numbers or the damage they inflict upon Roses the Sawflies must be classed as amongst the worst pests that the Rose-cultivator has to 104 Roses for Amateurs. contend against. Though the majority are leaf-feeders and fairly easily disposed of, there are some few that feed concealed in such a way as not readily to be seen or dealt with, while there is at least one that is occasionally met with that lives in the pith of shoots. Of the leaf-feeders proper one of the worst depredators is the Caddice Sawfly (Lyda inanita), whose yellowish-green, red-lined, black- spotted larva elaborates from its food-plant a most ingenious case in which it feeds concealed, much after the fashion of the Caddice-grub of our ditches and certain species of Clothes Moth. Equally common and quite as destructive is the Rose Slug (Eriocampa rosa), a sluggish, yellowish- green creature that destroys the epidermis of the leaf, causing it to die. When full-fed it becomes a pupa in a cocoon in the soil. Still keeping to very common species we have Blenno- campa pusilla, a short, thickish green larva, with a brownish head. It is one of those species that live a more or less concealed life, beneath a turned-down leaflet. The pupal state is also passed in the soil. Cladins pectinicornis is not only a fairly common insect but is also double-brooded. The larva is deep green, warted, and hairy. It may be found feeding on the under-surface of the leaflets in the vicinity of the midrib. The pupal state is passed in a cocoon between leaves, as is also the larval state of the autumn brood. Even more numerous and more catholic as regards its tastes is Clddius Padi, which frequents fruit as well as flower gardens, eating holes in the foliage. A distinctive and very hurtful species is Etnphytus cinctus, whose larvae may often be seen feeding, in the characteristic attitude of the species, on the edges of the leaflets with the tail extremity curled over; while, having regaled themselves, they curl up contented on the under-sur- face of the leaflets. The caterpillar is green above, and has shiny white tubercles, the sides being greyish. Frequently Rose Friends and Foes. 105 these larvae enter the shoots, therein to assume the pupal state. When this is the case, which is betokened by the dying away of the shoot, it should be cut off and burnt. To the genus Hylotoma belong several species all more or less destructive to the foliage of Roses, but none so objectionable as the bluish-green larvae of //. roses (see illus- tration), which are depicted in very characteristic attitudes. Many Sawfly larvae on being disturbed appear to assume an offensive attitude and sometimes contort the body violently. The insect on the left shows the body erected as if on the defensive. There are two broods of this species— summer Larvae of Rose-leaf Sawfly (Hylotoma rosae). and autumn. The pupal state is passed beneath the soil in cocoons. The above-named constitute the chief of the Sawflies affecting Roses. No mention has been made of the perfect insects, as little if anything can be done to prevent the females from ovipositing. As regards treatment, those species that feed openly may be dealt with by poisoning the food-plant with Paris Green zoz. to 20 gallons of water. It is best to get this very virulent poison in paste form. As, too, Roses differ markedly in the texture of their foliage, it will be well to try the effect on a small portion. In all cases io6 Roses for Amateurs. the arsenite is best sprayed on in a fine mist. It will also be necessary constantly to stir the insecticide. When a preparation that kills by contact is preferred, then Gardo, White's Abol, or Kerosene Emulsion used in the proportions suggested by the makers should prove effectual. In addition, a piece of paper covered with a sticky composition may be laid beneath an infested tree, which may then be gently shaken, when the insects will fall on the adhesive, and thence they may be collected and killed. For the pith-feeding species the shoots that die away should be burnt. Scale (Kermes rosce). Under glass this species must be regarded as a pest. It takes up its abode on the bark, and plants badly attacked soon begin to show signs of declining health. If one can note it while on the wander the creatures are much more readily dealt with than when the " scales " are formed that cover the young generations. So firmly are they then attached that a brush is required to remove them. Kerosene Emulsion of a strength suited to the plant or plants being dealt with, applied in the evening, will effect a clearance if persisted in. Thrips. Small and inconspicuous though these insects are, the amount of damage they are capable of inflicting upon Rose foliage is out of all proportion to their size. When the under-surfaces of the foliage are much infested the leaves will appear as sickly as if attacked by Red Spider, while the flowers are covered with minute rusty-looking spots. If, however, the house in which the Roses are kept is periodically fumigated with one of the vaporising insecticides the attacks should be of a negligible quantity. So minute are the creatures that a description would not enable a novice to differentiate the parts by means of the unaided eye. Still, Rose Friends and Foes. 107 the general conformation is well known, and the insects could scarcely be confused with any others that infest Roses. Weevils. Rose-growers are often puzzled to discover the cause of much injury to buds, young shoots, &c. By inspect- ing the trees at night with the aid of a lantern the authors thereof will be revealed — Weevils. The species that we have found is the Clay-Coloured Vine Weevil (Otiorrhynchus Clay-coloured Weevil Black Vine Weevil (Otiorrhynchus picipes). (Otiorrhynchus sulcatus). picipes), a most objectionable Beetle in the garden, and second only in regard to its omnivorous propensities to a near ally, the Black Vine Weevil (O. sulcatus). We give illustrations of these two species, as they are so commonly met with and yet might be so readily over- looked as harmless. The colour of each is suggested by the name, and no description is called for. Paris Green, as. sug- gested against the Sawflies, may be tried ; but the better plan is to arrange sticky papers beneath the trees, and at night visit the latter with a light. This will so alarm the insects io8 Roses for Amateurs. that they will drop to the ground on to the adhesive, whence they may be collected and destroyed. Occasionally, too, we have found some pretty greenish metallic Weevils belonging to the genus Phyllobius upon Rose-bushes; but we have not been able to determine whether they are hurtful or not. Still, knowing the damage they do to fruit-trees by gnawing the foliage and the buds, we have destroyed them as " undesirables." P. viridicollis is the species we have oftenest seen. This has green scales on the thorax and a black shiny body. The "beak" of these Weevils is short and thick, not prolonged as in some species. They may often be shaken from the trees in the morning. Vegetable. Bla.ck Spot (Actinonema rosce). In this we have a very characteristic fungus disease, and one that seems considerably on the increase. This is probably due to the fact that very feeble efforts are made to combat it. The popular name above adopted gives a clue to the chief feature of the disease — a blotching of the foliage. At first the spots are very irregular, but later they assume a more definite form and increase considerably in size. In bad attacks, when no effort is made to stay them, the leaves yellow prematurely and fall. Where only a few of the leaves are involved these may be removed and burnt. Where, however, a tree was attacked by the fungus the previous year, much the better plan is to take preventive measures by spraying in spring with a weak solution of Bordeaux Mixture. The disease occurs under glass as well as in the open. Mildew (Sphacrotheca pannosa). As long as we have any trustworthy records of the Rose, this disease has apparently been one of the banes of the Rose Friends and Foes. 109 cultivator. Little by way of description is needed to enable even the veriest amateur to identify the species in one stage — namely, by the powdery appearance it gives to the parts affected. Many, however, seem to think that it is a leaf trouble only : this is a mistake, as shoots, buds, and fruits alike are involved. As the disease progresses, however, the white powdery appearance is succeeded by a velvety mould of a yellowish colour; and this in turn gives place to dark (almost black) points in the mycelium. Some Roses are more prone to this disease than others ; those least affected are the Hybrid Teas, Teas, and Noisettes ; and it is present on plants in the open and under glass. Preventive measures should be taken directly the disease is noted. These should consist of flowers of sulphur mixed with one-third its bulk of slaked lime; or, better still, of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur), zoz. to 3gall. of water. This causes no unsightly look as in the case of the powder sulphur and lime, though under glass it will affect the paint. Severe attacks under glass are often induced (not caused) by the conditions under which Roses are often grown. Many amateurs seem afraid to allow a free air circulation, and the plants are so weakened that they are. in just the condition to take any disease to which they are liable. Under glass the Sulphur Vaporiser as sold by Messrs. Campbell would prove useful in restricting the disease. Further preventive measures consist in removing all affected parts and burning them before the second stage in the life-history of the fungus is reached, as then the spores distributed by various agencies invariably increase the area of infection unless the sulphur remedies are freely employed. Rose Brand.— See Rose Rust, Rose Rust (Phragmidium subcorticiuni). Whether we regard this and Rose Brand as two phases in the life-history of one disease matters but little. It is usual no Roses for Amateurs. to refer to the spring form by the popular name above adopted and the one produced later in summer as Rose Brand, when the orange patches of the former season have deepened owing to the production of uredospores. Yet a further stage marks the progress of this disease — namely, when the resting spores (teleutospores) are formed in the shape of black dots readily seen on the under surface of the foliage. When once the disease is seen the branches should be sprayed with weak Bordeaux Mixture. This will stay its progress ; the next season Mr. Massee suggests the use of a sulphate of copper solution (2oz. of copper in 3gall. of water) before the buds expand. INDEX. A. Acalla variegans, 101 Acme labels, 31 shade, 58 Actinonema rosa, 108 Anguillulidce, 91 Ants, 91 Aphides, 94 Arches for Roses, 80 Arranging Roses for exhibition, 63 Artificial manures, 60 Austrian Briars, 83 Ayrshire Roses, 83 B. Baker, Mr. George, n Banksian Roses, 83 Bedeguar galls, 93 Beds, advantages of, 31 preparing, n Bees, Leaf-cutting, 97 Beetle, Rose, 103 Bennett, Mr. Henry, 66 Black Spot, 1 08 Black Vine Weevil, 107 Bleeding after pruning, 33 Blenno cam-pa -pusilla, 104 Blossoms, cutting for exhibi- tion, 61 Blush Tea-scented Roses, 38 Bourbon Roses, 84 Boursault Roses, 85 Boxes, exhibition, 60 Bracken clocks, 95 Brand, 109 Briar cutting, 5 advantages for Teas, 5 root disposition, 5 Briar seedling, 7 cutting, 7 planting, 30 roots of, 5 Briar standard, 3 Bud, binding, 19 inserting, 19 taking the, 18 Budding, 17 best time for, 19 methods, 18 prickles test, 19 stocks, 17 time, 1 8 weather for, 19 Bud-grafting, 21 Buff-Tip Moth, 98 112 Index. C. Caddice Sawfly, 104 Cetoniidce, 103 Chafer, Rose, 103 Cheimatobia brumata, 101 China Roses, 2 Chinese Roses, 85 Chryso-pus, 96 Cladius Padi, 104 •pectinicornis, 104 Clay-coloured Vine Weevil, 107 Cleft-grafting, 24 Climbing Roses, 31, 57, 78 Cli si o cam-pa neustria, 99 Cockchafers, 95 Cross-fertilisation, 65 Cultivation, 8 Cuttings, 21 advantages of, 21 after-treatment, 23 frame for, 22 potting off, 22 preparing for stocks, 7 season for, 21, 22 selecting, 22 striking outside, 22 D. Damask Roses, 85 Decorative varieties, 66 Disbudding, 36, 57 Division, 24 Dwarf Roses, 3, 13, 31 v. standards, 3 E. Earwigs, 91 Eelworms, 91 Em-phytus cinctus, 104 Eriocampa rosa, 104 Eucosma ochroleucana, 101 Evergreen Roses, 85 Exhibiting, 57 apparatus required, 60 Exhibiting boxes, 60, 62 cutting the blossoms, 61 disbudding, 51 feeding the plants, 58 position of flowers in boxes, 64 setting up flowers, 62 shading, 57 " spares," 65 tubes and wires for, 60 varieties for, 66 " wiring " the flowers, 63 Exhibitions, 2 holders for roses, 63 tube, Frank Cant, 63 Exhibitors' Roses, 74 F. Feeding the plants, 58 Fertilisers, 51 Flies, Hover, 94 Ichneumon, 95 Lacewing, 96 Stink, 96 Flower-buds, removal of, 36 Forcing, 53 preparatory work, 53 succession of plants, 53 temperature, 53 ventilation, 53 Frames for cuttings, 22 Friends and Foes, 91 Frog-hopper, 92 Frost, protecting trees against, 32 G. Gall-flies, 92 Gallica Roses, 2, 13 Galls, Bedeguar, 93 Gardeners' Chronicle quoted. 21 " Garden" Roses, 76 enumeration of, 83-89 ephemeral nature of, 76 Index. Glass cultivation of Roses, 46 beds, preparation of, 49 choice of a house, 48 extension of the system, 46 forcing, 53 manures, 49 planted-out system v. pots, 47 planting, 49 pot system, 51 pruning, 51 varieties, 47, 49, 54 Gold-tail Moth, 98 Gothic moth, 100 Grafting, 24 Grease-banding against moths, 101 Greenfly, 94 II. Half -standards, 31 Hedges, Sweetbriar, 10 Ilemerobius, 96 " Heps," treatment of, 16 History, i Holder, Forster's exhibition, 63 '• Hop Cat," 99 Houses for Roses, 48 Hover-flies, 94 Hybridising, 17 Hybrid Perpetuals, 2, 25, 57, 67, 75, 76 pruning, 34 Hybrid Sweetbriars, 15, 85 Hybrid Teas, 43, 73, 76 definition of, 43 origin, 43 outdoor, 37 planting, 25, 46 pruning, 35, 45 varieties, 56, 73 Ilydriomena badiata, 100 derivata, 100 nigrofasciaria, 100 llylotoma, 105 rosce, 105 Ichneumon Flies, 95 Introductory, i June Bugs, 95 K. Kennes rosce, ic6 L. Lacewing Flies, 96 Lackey Moth, 99 Ladybirds, 96 Seven-spotted, 96 Leaf-buds, rubbing out, 36 Leaf-cutting Bees, 97 Li-paris aurif.ua, 98 Lyda inanita, 104 M. Macartney Roses, 86 Maiden blooms, 4 Manetti cuttings, 7 introduction of, 4 planting, 30 prevalence of suckers, 5 stock, 4 Mania Maura, 100 Manures, 27, 59, 60 Mawley, Mr. £.,35 Megachile, 97 Melolontlia vulgaris, 95 Mildew, 10, 37, 49, ic8 Monthly Roses, 2, 85 Moss for exhibition boxes, 60 Moss Roses, 2, 13, 86 Moths, 97 Musk Rose, 37, 38, 88 Index. N. N cenia ty-pica, 100 National Rose Society, 2, 9, 45, 66 Ne-pticula centi-foliella, 101 Nododontidce, 100 Noisettes, 37, 57, 71, 75, 76 O. Old Lady, 100 Orgyia antiqua, 99 Otiorrhynchus -pici-pes , 107 sulcatus, 107 Outdoor cultivation of Teas and Hybrid Teas, 37 Own-root Roses, 25, 31 P. Pandemis ribeana, 101 Pedigree Roses, 65 Penzance, Lord, 85 Pergolas, 15, 79 Pests, 91 Phragmidium subcorticium, 109 Phyllo-pertha horticola, 95 Pillar Roses, 14, 78 Planting, 25, 30 after-treatment, 32 briar cutting, 30 briar seedling, 30 climbers, 31 dwarfs, 31 half-standards, 31 Hybrid Perpetuals, 25 Hybrid Teas, 25, 46 labels, 31 Manettis, 30 manures as surface-dress- ing, 27 own-root Roses, 31 preparing the trees, 29 protection against frost, 32 removal of suckers, 30 standards, 31 Planting Teas, 25, 40 town Roses, 29 Plant lore, 2 Pochin, Rev. E. N., 18 Polyantha Roses, 88 Positions, 8 Pot Roses, 51 fertilisers for, 51 selecting, 51 soil, 51 Potting off cuttings, 22 Prince, Mr. George, 30, 38 Procuring stock, 25 Propagation, 15 budding, 17 bud-grafting, 21 cuttings, 21 division, 15, 24 grafting, 15, 24 layering, 15 seeds, 15, 16 suckers, 15, 25 Protecting Teas, 31 Provence Roses, 2, 89 Pruning, 33 diagrams, 34, 35 Hybrid Perpetuals, 34 Hybrid Teas, 35 late, 33 rules, 33 Teas, 35, 41, 45 under-glass Roses, 51, 52 " Puddling " roots, 27 Pygcsra buce-phala, 98 R. Rabbits, 102 Ramanas Roses, 89 Red Spider, 102 Rhodites, 92 centi-folia, 92 rosa, 93 Rivers, Mr., 4 Roots, " puddling " at planting- time, 26 Rosa bracteata, 86 Brunonis, 81 Index Rosa centifolia, 88 centifolia muscosa, 86 indie a, 85 indica anemo nee flora, 81 Lucia, 89 lutea, 83 macrantha, 78 moschata, 38, 87 multiflora, 81 odorata, 37 •polyantha, 81, 88 •prcecox, 81 re~pens hybrida, 83 rugosa, 15, 79, 89 sem-perflorens, 85 sem-pervivens, 85 spinosissima, 25, 89 "Rosarian's Year-Book," 18, 85 Rose-arches, 80 Rose Beetle, 103 Rose Brand, 107 Rose Chafers, 95, 103 Rose-garden, forming, 8, 13 position, 10 shelter, 10 soil, ii Rose Slug, 104 " Ros Rosarum," 2 Rust, 107 S. Sawflies, 103 Caddice, 104 Scale, 106 Scotch Roses, 89 Secateurs, evils of, 34 Seed, raising Roses from, 16 Seven-spotted Ladybird, 96 Shading, 57 Shelters for Rose-garden, 10 Si-phono-phora roses, 94 Slug, Rose, 104 Smoke, ill-effects of, on Roses, 9 Soil, ii condition at planting-time, 26 improving, 13 for pot Roses, 51 "Spare" blossoms for exhibi- tion purposes, 65 Specialists in Rose cultivation, 32 S-pheerotheca -pannosa, 37, 108 Spot, Black, 108 Standards, 3, 31 Stink-flies, 96 Stocks, 3 making cuttings of, 7 planting, 17 Suckers, propagation by, 25 removal of, 30 Summer Roses, 2 Sweetbriar hedges, 10 Sweetbriars, Hybrid, 15, 85 Syrphidee, 94 T. Tea Roses, 2, 71, 75, 76 after-cultivation, 40 as wall-coverers, 43 beds, 13 influence of climate on, 38. origin, 38 outdoor, 37 planting, 25, 40 protecting heads of, 31 pruning, 35, 41 special cultivation, 40 varieties, 54, 71 Tetranychus telarius, 102 Thrips, 106 Tortrices, 101 Tortrix Sergmannzana, 101 •podana, 101 •pyrastrana, 101 ribeancti 101 variegana, 101 Town Roses, 29 Ty-phlocyba roses, 92 V. Vapourer Moth, 99 Varieties, decorative, 66 n6 Index. Varieties, exhibition, 66 for towns, 29 Ventilating Rose-houses, 53 W. Wall Roses, 43, 82 Weather influences on budding, '9 Wedge-grafting, 24 Weeping Roses, 4, 83 'Weevils, 107 Weevils, Black Vine, 107 Clay-coloured, 107 Whip-grafting, 24 Wichuraiana Roses, 4, 89 Winter Moth, 101 Roses, 53 "Wiring" Roses, 63 Y. Yellow China Rose, 38 t. UPCOTT GILL. LONDON & COUNTY PRINTING WORKS. DRURY LANE. w.C. G\TAI9CUE PRACTICAL flANDBSSKS PUBLISHED BT LUP02TTC4& NOTE.— All Books are at Nett Prices. WILSON'S DOG REMEDIES Have received over 10,000 unsolicited Testimonials. COMPLETE PRICE LIST, POST FREE. When ordering Medicine mention age and breed, with Toy's weight. Wilson's 30-minute Worm Capsules.— No fasting, no messing with oil, no pain. The best of all worm medicine. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Distemper Capsules.— Will gave your Puppies when all oth^r remedies fail. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Diarrhoea Capsules.— Effective, quick, and perfectly safe. In boxes, 1/3, 2jf>, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Liver Stimulant Capsules.— For assisting sluggish livers. The timely nse of this medicine often prevents a severe illness. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Jaundice Capsules.— A reliable remedy which quickly cures. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Tonic aad Conditioa Capsules,— This is the finest tonic and best -conditioner you can possibly use for Dogs or Puppies. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Constipation Capsules.— This medicine simply lubricates the whole system, and will not purge. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Blood Purifying Capsules.— For all Blood disorders. Heated Blood, which causes* an irritable skin and makes them continually scratching, a few of these Capsules will quickly cure. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Lice and Tick Lotion.— Perfectly harmless to the dogs should they lick it off, but quickly kills all Fleas, Lice, or Ticks. In bottles, 1/6, 2/6, 5/-, and 10/6, post free. Wilson's Diuretic Capsules.— These act directly on and quickly cure all kidney troubles. In boxes, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Fit and Convulsion Capsules.— Perfectly harmless, and quickly relieve. In boxes,' 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Gastritis Cure.— Quickly cures this deadly disease 1/6, 3/-, /-, 10/6, post free. SANATORIUM FOR SICK DOGS AND CATS. MODERATE CHARGES. BOARDING KENNELS FOR HEALTHY DOGS AND GATS. Wilson's Laryngitis Vapor. — No kennel is safe without this valuable remedy for coughs, colds, inflammation of the lungg. It touches places that no medicine given internally possibly can, and is highly valued by all who have used it. In bottles, 1/6, 3/-, 5/- 10/6, post free. Wilson's Laryngitis and Bronchitis Mixture.— This medicine can be given in conjunction with the above " Vapor." With these two remedies at hand you can indeed feel safe. In bottles,. 1/6, 3/-, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Hair Stimulant.— The most wonderful hair producer known. Try it yourself and see. It is quite colourless, is not oil, and will not mess the fur. In bottles, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Mange or Eczema Cure. — This remedy has never failed, even in the most malignant forms of the disease. Cleanly to use, altogether different to the old-fashioned sulphur and tar, evil smelling composition. In bottles, 1/3, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Stomachic Tonic.— Keeps Puppies growing and healthy, helping to assimilate their food, and prevent diarrhoea. 1/6, 2/6, 5/-, post free. Wilson's Ear Canker Lotion.— Quickly relieves this distressing complaint. In bottles, 1/6, 2/6, 51-, post free. Wilson's Dog Soap (Superfatted).— This is the only Superfatted Dog Soap on the market, it produces an immense lather and leaves a beautiful gloss on the coat, and the skin in better condition. Per tablet, 9d., post free. Wilson's Chorea Capsules.— A certain cure for this most dreaded disease. In boxes, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson's Aphrodisiac Capsules,— A reliable stimulant and tonic for Stud Dogs. In boxes, 2/6, 5/-, 10/6, post free. Wilson'* Accouchement Capsules.— Perfectly safe, often save the life of a valuable Bitch by quick delivery where large Puppies or dead ones are present. In boxes, 2/6, 67-, 10/6, post free. Book on Diseases of Dogs and Cats Post Free on Application. ADVICE GIVEN FREE BY POSt I THE WILSON YETERIMRY MEDICINE MANUFACTURING COMPANY, ASHFORD, MIDDLESEX. Ltd" INDEX To the Practical Handbooks Published by L. Upcott Gill, London, and Chas. Scribner's Sons, New York. ART. PAGE ANTIQUITIES, ENGLISH 3 PAGE BOOK OF GARDENING . . 8 LISH 6 CACTUS 5 CHURCH DECORATIONS 6 CARNATIONS 5 DESIGNING, HARMONIC 7 PAPER WORK, ORNA- CHRYSANTHEMUMS 6 CUCUMBERS 7 MENTAL ... 11 PAINTING, DECORATIVE 11 DENING ..„ 8 FERNS 7 AMUSEMENTS. FRUIT 8 BAZAARS AND FANCY GRAPES ». 9 FAIRS 4 CARD GAMES . . 4, 5, 6, 11, 14,15 GREENHOUSE CON- STRUCTION AND HEAT- ING . . 9 CONJURING •.. . . 5, 6 GREENHOUSE MANAGE- MENT 9 ENTERTAINMENTS .. 5,7,15 FORTUNE TELLING . . ... 8 HARDY PERENNIALS .. 9 HOME GARDENING .... 8 MUSHROOMS 10 PALMISTRY . 11 ORCHIDS 11 PHOTOGRAPHY ... 11, 12 PIANOFORTE 12, 15 TOMATOES 14 POOL 12 VEGETABLES 15 VA.MPING •- • 15 HOME COLLECTING COOKERY 3,6,7,8 AUTOGRAPHS . « 3 LACE HAND-MADE 10 BOOKS .» 10 14 MEDICINE 10 BUTTERFLIES . . 5 NEEDLEWORK 11 COINS . . *. . . 6 LI BRARY DRAGONFLIES . . 7 JOURNALISM, PRACTICAL 9 LIBRARY MANUAL, THE 10 FURNITURE 8 PRESS WORK FOR WOMEN 13 HAWK MOTHS 9 SPORTING BOOKS, ILLUS- TRATED 14 MOTHS 5, 9 PAINTING 11 MECHANICS. POSTAGE STAMPS 12 POSTMARKS 12 CABINET MAKING .... 5 POTTERY & PORCELAIN 12 CANE BASKET WORK . . 5 CHIP CARVING 6 VIOLINS 15 FARMING. BFES . . 4 CHUCKS AND CHUCKING 6 FIREWORK MAKING .. 8 FORGE WORK 8 DAIRY FARMING 7 FRETWORK 8 GLUES AND CEMENTS.. 8 PIGS... 12 MARQUETERIE 10 POULTRY _ 7, 10, 12, 13 METAL WORKING 4, 13, 14,15 MODEL YACHTS 10 STOCK RECORDS 4, 11, 14 GARDENING. ALPINE PLANTS 3 BKGONIAS „ 4 POLISHES AND STAINS FOR WOODS 12 PICTURE FRAME MAK- ING... . 12 PAOK POKER WORK - 12 REPOUSSE WORK 13 TICKET WRITING 15 VIOLINS, REPAIRING .. 15 WOODWORKING 6, 10, 12, 15 WORKSHOP MAKE- SHIFTS 15 NATURAL HISTORY. AQUARFA « 3 BIRDS' EGGS * INSECTS -. .. 5, 7, 9 NATURALISTS' DIREC- TORY 11 TAXIDERMY 14 VIVARIUM 10, 15 PET-KEEPING. BIRDS 4,5,7,8,11 CATS & DOGS.... 6, 7,8, 9,10, 13, 15 GUINEA PIGS ...._...- 9 MICE ..„..«- 10 MONKEYS 1 PIGEONS H RABBITS 13 SPORTING. ANGLING ..„.-....«.. 3, 15 CYCLING 10 FERRETING - t GAME PRESERVING — 8 LAWN TENNIS 10,14 MOTORING 10 OTTER-HUNTING 11 SAILING 4,8,10.13 SHOOTING 3 SKATING ««..« 14 SWIMMING 14 TRAPPING ««- 14 WILD SPORTS..- 15 WILD FOWLING 15 WRESTLING 9, 15 SEAFARING. BOATBUILDING 4 BOAT SAILING 4 SAILING TOURS « 13 SEALIFE 14 SEA TERMS 14 YACHTING YARNS 9 TOURING. CARAVANING 5 FRIESLAND MERES „ .. 8 ROUTE MAP 10 SEASIDE WATERING PLACES...., 14 WELSH MOUNTAINEER- ING - 10 RILEY'S BILLIARD TABLES (To place on your own Dining Table). Superior Billiard Table, in Solid Mahogany, French Polished, Best Slate Bed* Adjustable Feet Rubber Shod, Low Frost-proof Rubber Cushions, Two Cues, Rest> Ivory or Crystalate Balls, &c. Cash Prices. 4in. by 2ft. 4in. £3 7 6^ Or in 13 Monthly (1 3 Monthly Payment. of 5/6 4in. „ 2 t. 1 Om. 4 7 6 I Payments as here I „ „ „ 7/O 4in. „ 3ft. 4in. 5 S 0 >-shown, being only-^ „ „ „ 8/6 4in. „ 3it. lOin. 750| 5 per cent. jj/g 4in. :, 4ft. 4in. 10 0 OJ on cash Pnce' (" " „ 16/O Delivered Carriage Paid to any Railway Station at Our Risk. No Charge for Packages. List Free. RILEY'S BILLIARD AND DINING TABLES COMBINED. Fitted with Riley's Patent Action for Raising, Lowering, and Levelling. A Handsome Piece of Furniture as a Dining Table, and a High- class Billiard Table. Made in Mahogany, Oak, Walnut, etc. All shades to match your furni- ture, and supplied with Cues, Ivory or Crysta- late Balls, Rest, Marking Board, Frost-proof Cushions, etc. etc. See List. Size 4ft. « 5ft. ., eft. „ 7ft. ., 8ft. Cash Sires Mahoga £ a. A ...13 1C are both same size. Or in 13 Monthly Instalments, plus 5 per cent, on above cash prices. Also in 18 Monthly Payments. See List. Details in List sent on application. IT WIT IT On receipt of postcard, full detailed Illustrated Catalogue of Billiard and T KJLrJLr Dining fables, and small or full-sized Tables and Sundries. Record All-round Break is still 821 by John Roberts on RILEY'S TABLE. E. J. RILEY, Ltd,, " Crown " Mills, Accrington. London Showrooms: 147. ALDERSGATE STREET. E.G. TO BUY ANYTHING TO SELL ANYTHING Established 40 Years TO EXCHANGE ANYTHING Price 2d. per Copy FOR ^m^^S:^:^^^/ FOR PRACTICAL XSttl' '>' EXPERT INFORMATION ADVICE OF VALUE TO YOU~ BUY A OOPY and SEE. At all Bookstalls and Newsagents', or direct by post for 3d. in stamps from the Offices : Bazaar Buildings, Drury Lane, London, W.C. Catalogue . Practical Handbooks Published by L. Upcott Gill, Bazaar Buildings, London, Chas. Scribner's Sons, New York. Air-Gunner, The Complete. A Sound Practical Book on Home Culture in Rifle Shooting by means of the Air-Gun. By R. B. TOWNSHBND, Member of the "Legion of Frontiersmen." Illustrated with Diagrams and 16 Plates. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Alpine Plants. A Practical Manual for their Culture. By W. A. CLARK, F.R.H.S. With a Supplementary Essay on the Small Rock Garden. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/9. American Dainties, and How to Prepare Them. By AN AMERICAN LADY. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Angler, Book of the All-Round. A Comprehensive Treatise on Angling in both Fresh and Salt Water. By JOHN BICKERDYKE. With over 220 Engravings. In cloth gilt, price 5/6, by post 5/10. Also in Four Divisions as follow : — Angling for Coarse Fish. Bottom Fishing, according to the Methods in use on the Thames, Trent, Norfolk Broads, and elsewhere. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Angling for Pike. The most approved methods of Fishing for Pike or Jack. Second Edition. Profusely illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Angling for Game Fish. The Various Methods of Fishing for Salmon, Moorland, Chalk-stream, and Thames Trout ; Grayling and Char. Second Edition. Well illustrated. In paper, price 1/6, by post 1/9. Angling in Salt Water. Sea Fishing with Rod and Line, from the Shore, Piers, Jetties, Rocks, and from Boats ; together with Some Account of Hand-Lining. Second Edition. Over 50 Engravings. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Angler, The Modern. A Practical Handbook on all Kinds of Angling, both Fresh Water and Sea. By " OTTER." Well illustrated. Third Edition. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Antiquities, English. A Popular Guide to the Collection of Curios of ths Palaeolithic, Neolithic, Bronze, Iron, Anglo-Saxon, and Mediaeval Times, with a concise Dictionary of Terms, &c., used. By GEORGE CLINCH, F.G.S., Author of " Old English Churches." Illustrated. In cloth, price 6/6, by post 6/10. Aquaria, Freshwater : Their Construction, Arrangement, Stocking, and Management. Second Edition, revised and enlarged. By REV. G. C. BATE- MAN, A.K.C. Fully Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Autograph Collecting: A Practical Manual for Amateurs and Historical Students, containing ample information on the Selection and Arrangement of Autographs, the Detection of Forged Specimens, &c., &c., to which are added numerous Facsimiles for Study and Reference, and an extensive Valuation Table of Autographs worth Collecting. By HENRY T. SCOTT, M.D., L.R.C.P., «fec. In cloth gilt, price 5/-f by post 5/4. AH Books are Nett. 4 Published by L. UPCOTT GILL, London, and Bazaars and Fancy Fairs : Their Organization and Management. A Secretary's Vade Alecurn. By JOHN MuiR. In paper, price I/-, by post, 1/2. Bee-Keeping, Book of. A very practical and Complete Manual on the Proper Management of Bees, especially written for Beginners and Amateurs who have but a few Hives. By VV. B. WEBSTER, First-class Expert, B.B.K.A. Third Edition, Fully illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2 ; in cloth, price 1/6, by post 1/8. Bees and Bee-Keeping: Scientific and Practical. By F. B. CHESHIRE, F.L.S., F.B.M.S., Lecturer on Apiculture at South Kensington. In two volt. Vol. I., Scientific. A complete Treatise on the Anatomy and Physi- ology of the Hive Bee. In cloth gilt, price Is. 6rf., by post Is. lOd. Vol. II., Practical Management of Bees. An Exhaustive Treatise on Advanced Bee Culture. [Out of Print. Begonia Culture, for Amateurs and Professionals. Containing Full Direc- tions for the Successful Cultivation of the Begonia, under Glass and in the Open Air. By B. C. RAVENSCROFT. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged. With New Illustrations. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Bent Iron Work : A Practical Manual of Instruction for Amateurs in the Art and Craft of Making and Ornamenting Light Articles in imitation of the beautiful Mediaeval and Italian Wrought Iron Work. By F. J. ERSKINE. Illustrated In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Birds, British, for the Cages and Aviaries. A Handbook relating to all British Birds which may be kept in Confinement. Illustrated. By DR. W. T. GREENE. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Birds' Eggs of the British Isles. A comprehensive Guide to the Collector of British Birds' Eggs, with hints respecting the preparation of specimens for the cabinet. Collated and compiled by ARTHUR G. BUTLER, Ph.D., F.L.S., F.Z.S., F.E.S., from hia larger work, "British Birds with their Nests and Eggs." Beautifully Illustrated with twenty-four full-page plates in colour. In demy 4 foolscap 8vo, price 5/-, by post 5/3. Card Tricks, Book of, for Drawing-room and Stage Entertainments by Amateurs ; with an exposure of Tricks as practised by Card Sharpers and Swindlers. Numerous Illustrations. By PROF. R. KUNARD. In sti/ boards^ price 2/6, by post 2/9. Carnation Culture for Amateurs. The Culture of Carnations and Picotees of all Classes in the Open Ground and in Pots. By B. C. RAVENSCROFT. Third Edition. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. All Books are Nett. 6 Published by L. UPCOTT GILL, London, and Cats, Domestic and Fancy. A Practical Treatise on their Varieties, Breeding, Management, and Diseases. By JOHN JENNINGS. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Chip-Carving as a Recreation. A Practical Manual for Amateurs, containing a Full and Clear Description of the Manipulation and Use of the Tools, with a Chapter on the Principles and Construction of Designs. By W. JACKSON SMITH. Profusely Illustrated with Specially Prepared Illustrations, showing how the Tools should be Held and Used, and the way to Prepare Designs. Second Edition. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Chrysanthemum Culture, for Amateurs and Professionals. Containing Full Directions for the Successful Cultivation of the Chrysanthemum for Exhibition and the Market. By B. C. RAVENSCROFT. Third Edition. Illustrated. In paptr, price I/-, by post 1/2. Chrysanthemum, The Show, and Its Cultivation. By C. SCOTT, of the Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society. In paper, price 6d. , by post 7d. Churches, Old English : Their Architecture, Furniture, Decorations, Monu- ments, Vestments, and Plate, &c. Second and Enlarged Edition. By GEO. CLINCH, F.G.S. Magnificently illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 6/6, by post 6/10. Church Festival Decorations. Being full directions for Garnishing Churches for Christinas, Easter, Whitsuntide and Harvest, and notes on other Feasts and Festivals of the Church. Second Edition. Re-written and enlarged by ERNEST R. SUPPLING. Profusely illustrated. In cloth, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Chucks and Chucking. Being an Account of Chucks New and Old, and of How to Use Them, with a Description of Various Methods of Mounting Work in the Lathe. By H. J. S. CASSAL. Profusely Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Coffee Stall Management. Practical Hints for the Use of those Interested in Temperance or Philanthropic Work. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/1. Coins, a Guide to English Pattern, in Gold, Silver, Copper, and Pewter, from Edward I. to Victoria, with their Value. By the REV. G. F. CROWTHER; M.A. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 5/-, by post 5/3. Coins of Great Britain and Ireland, a Guide to the, in Gold, Silver, and Copper, from the Earliest Period to 1905, with their Value. By the late COLONEL W. STEWART THORBURN. Fourth Edition. Revised and Enlarged by H. A. GRUEBER, F.S.A. With 42 Plates, illustrating over 360 Coins. In doth gilt, price 10/6, by post 10/10. Cold Meat Cookery. A Handy Guide to making really tasty and much appreciated Dishes from Cold Meat. By MRS. J. E. DAVIDSON. In paper, •price I/-, by post 1/2. Collie, The. As a Show Dog, Companion, and Worker. By HUGH DALZIEL. Revised by J. MAXTEE, Author of "Popular Dog Keeping," &c., &c. Third Edition. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Collie Stud Book. Edited by HUGH DALZIEL. In cloth gilt, price 3/6 each, by post 3/9 each. Vol. I., containing Pedigrees of 1308 of the best-known Dogs, traced to their most remote known ancestors ; Show Record to Feb., 1890, &c. Vol. II. Pedigrees of 795 Dogs, Show Record, &c. Vol. III. Pedigrees of 786 Dogs, Show Record, &c. Conjuring, Book of Modern. A Practical Guide to Drawing-room and Stage Magic for Amateurs. By PROFESSOR R. KUNARD. Illustrated. In stiff boards, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Conjuring and Card Tricks, Book of. By PROF. R. KUNARD. Being "The Book of Modern Conjuring" and "The Book of Card Tricks " bound in one vol. Cloth gilt, price 5/-, by post 5/4. Conjuring for Amateurs. A Practical Handbook on How to Perform a Number of Amusing Tricks, with diagrams, where necessary, to explain exactly how the trick is carried out. By PROF. ELLIS STANYON. In paper, price V-, by post 1/2. Conjuring with Cards: Being Tricks with Cards, and How to Perform Them. By PROF. ELLIS STANYON. Illustrated. In papert price I/-, by post 1/2. Cookery, The Encyclopaedia of Practical. A complete Dictionary of all pertaining to the Art of Cookery and Table Service. Edited by THEO. FRANCIS GARRETT, assisted by eminent Chefs de Cuisine and Confectioners. Profusely Illustrated with Coloured Plates and Engravings by HAROLD FURNISS, GEO. CRUIKSHANK, W. MUNN ANDREW, and others. In demy 4(o, half morocco, cushion edges, 2 vols.t price £3 3/-, carriage paid £3/4/6 ; Qvols., £3/13/6, carriage paid £3 15/% All Books are Nett. CHAS. SCRIBNER'S SONS, New York. Cucumber Culture for Amateurs. Including also clear Directions for th* Successful Culture of Melons, Vegetable Marrows and Gourds. By W. J. MAY. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged, with new Illustrations. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Dainties, English and Foreign, and How to Prepare Them. By MRS. H. C. DAVIDSON. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Dairy-Farming, Modern. A practical Handbook on -the Management of the Milch Cow and the profitable Utilisation of Milk, for Students, Tenant Farmers, and Amateurs. By H. L. PUXLEY. Illustrated. In cloth, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Designing, Harmonic and Keyboard. Explaining a System whereby an endless Variety of Most Beautiful Designs suited to numberless Manufactures may be obtained by Unskilled Persons from any Printed Music. Illustrated by Numerous Explanatory Diagrams and Illustrative Examples. By C. H. WILKINSON. Cheap Edition. In demy 4fo, cloth gilt, price 10/-, by post 10/8. Diabolo: The Game and its ''Tricks," including instructions on the sleights practised on the Continent, and on Tennis Court Play. By DAVID P. WARD. Well Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Dogs, Breaking and Training: Being Concise Directions for the proper education of Dogs, both for the Field and for Companions. Second Edition. By " PATHFINDER." With Chapters by HUGH DALZIEL. Many new Illustra- tions. In cloth gilt, price 6/6, bypostb/10. Dogs, British. Their Points, Selection, and Show Preparation. Third Edition. By W. D. DRURY, Kennel Editor of "The Bazaar," assisted by eminent specialists. Beautifully Illustrated with full-page and other engravings of typical dogs of the present time, mostly produced from photographs of living dogs, and numerous smaller illustrations in the text. This is the fullest work on the various breeds of dogs kept in England. In one volume, demy 8vo, cloth gilt, price 12/6, by post 13/-. Dogs, Diseases of: Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment ; Modes of Administering Medicines ; Treatment in cases of Poisoning, &c. For the use of Amateurs. By HUGH DALZIEL. Fourth Edition. Entirely Re-written and brought up to date. By ALEX. C. PIESSE, M.R.C.V.S. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2 ; in cloth gilt, price 2/-, by post 2/3. Dog-Keeping, Popular: Being a Handy Guide to the General Management and Training of all Kinds of Dogs for Companions and Pets. Third Edition. By J. MAXTEE. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Dragonflies, British. Being an Exhaustive Treatise on our Native Odonata ; Their Collection, Classification, and Preservation. By W. J. LUCAS, B.A. Very fully Illustrated with 27 Plates, Illustrating 39 Species, exquisitely printed in Colour, and numerous Black-and- White Engravings. In cloth gilt, price 31/6, by post 31/11. Egg and Poultry Raising. See "Poultry and Egg Raising," page 12. Egg Dainties. How to Cook Eggs One Hundred and Fifty Different Ways, English and Foreign. By Mrs. H. C. DAVIDSON. In paper, price I/-, by €t 1/2. Certificate, Fertility of. These are Forms of Guarantee given by the lers to the Buyers of Eggs for Hatching, undertaking to refund value of any unfertile eggs, or to replace them with good ones. Very valuable to sellers of eggs, as they induce purchases. In books, ivith counterfoils, price bd., by post Id. Engravings and their Value. Containing a Dictionary of all the 'Greatest Engravers and their Works. By J. H. SLATER. Third Edition. Revised with an appendix and illustrations, and with Prices obtained at Auction, &c., for representative specimens. In cloth ailt, price 15/-, by post 15/5. Entertainments, Amateur, for Charitable and other Objects: How to Organise and Work them with Profit and Success. By ROBERT GANTHONY. In paver, price II-, by post 1/2. Feathered Friends, Old and New. Being the Experience of many years Observations of the Habits of British and Foreign Cage Birds. By DR. W. T. GREENE. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 5/-, by post 5/4. Ferns, Choice, for Amateurs: Their Culture and Management in the Open and Under Glass. Abridged from "The Book of Choice Ferns." By GEO. SCHNEIDER. With numerous Illustrations. In cloth, price 3/6, by post 39. Ferns, The Book of Choice : for the Garden, Conservatory, and Stove. Describing the best and most striking Ferns and Sela^inellas, and giving ex- plicit directions for their Cultivation, the formation of Rockeries, the arrangement of Ferneries, &c. By GEORGE SCHNEIDER. With 87 Coloured and other Plates and 396 Engravings of considerable artistic beauty. In 3 volt.t large post Qto, cloth gilt, price £3 3/-, carriage paid £3 5/-. All Books are Nett. 8 Published by L. UPCOTT GILL, London, and Ferrets and Ferreting. Containing Instructions for the Breeding, Managing, Training, and Working of Ferrets. Fourth Edition. Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Finches, Beautiful Foreign, and Their Treatment in Captivity. By A. O. BUTLER, Ph.D. Edited by A. H. MATHEW. Illustrated from Life by P. W. FROHAWK, with 60 full page plates, beautifully reproduced in colour. In Imp. 8vo, doth gilt, price 25/-, by post 25/6. Fire-work Making for Amateurs. A complete, accurate, and easily understood work on making Simple and High-class Fireworks. By DR. W. H. BROWNE, M.A. In coloured wrapper, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Fish, Flesh, and Fowl. When in Season, How to Select, Cook, and Serve. By MARY BARRETT BROWN. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/3. Forge Work, Simple, for Amateurs and Others : A Practical Hand- book for Beginners in the Blacksmith's Art. By H. J. S. CASSAL, Illustrated, In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Fortune Telling by Cards. Describing and Illustrating the Methods by which the would-be occult Tells Fortunes by Cards. By I. B. PRANGLEY. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Fox Terrier, The. Its History, Points, Breeding, Rearing, Preparing for Exhibition. By HUGH DALZIEL. Second Edition, Revised and brought up to date by J. MAXTEE (Author of "Popular Dog-Keeping"). Fully illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Fretwork and Marquetry. A Practical Manual of Instructions in the Art of Fret-cutting and Marquetry Work. By D. DENNING. Profusely Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Friesland Meres, A Cruise on the. By ERNEST R. SUPPLING. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Fruit Culture for Amateurs. An illustrated practical hand-book on the Growing of Fruits in the Open and under Glass. By S. T. WRIGHT. With Chapters on Insect and other Fruit Pests by W. D. DRURY, F.R.H.S. Second Edition. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Furniture, Old English, of the 17th and 18th Centuries. A Complete Guide to Connoisseurs and Collectors of Old English Furniture. By G. OWEN WHEELER. Second Edition. Beautifully Illustrated from Photographs of Representative Pieces specially prepared for this work. In cloth gilt, price 7/6, by post 8/-. Game Preserving, Practical. Containing the fullest Directions for Rearing and Preserving both Winged and Ground Game, and Destroying Vermin; with other information of Value to the Game Preserver. By W. CARNEGIE. Illustrated by F. W. FROHAWK, M. F. LYDON and others. Third Edition. In cloth gilt, price 7/6, by post 7/11. Gardening, Dictionary of. A Practical Encyclopaedia of Horticulture, for Amateurs and Professionals. Illustrated with 3150 Engravings. Edited by G. NICHOLSON, Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew ; assisted by Prof. Trail, M.D., Rev. P. W. Myles, B.A., F.L.S., W. Watson, J. Garrett, and other Specialists. In 5 vols., large post 4to. Cloth gilt, price £4, carriage paid £4/1/6. Gardening, Home. A Manual for the Amateur, Containing Instructions for the Laying Out, Stocking, Cultivation, and Management of Small Gardens — Flower, Fruit, and Vegetable. By W. D. DRURY, F.R.H.S. Second Edition. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Gardening, Open- Air : The Culture of Hardy Flowers, Fruit, and Vegetables. Edited by W. D. DRURY, F.E.S. Beautifully Illustrated. In demy 8t-o, doth gilt, price 6/-, by post 6/5. Gardening, the Book of: A Handbook of Horticulture. By well-known Specialists, including J. M. Abbott, W. G. Baker, Charles Bennett, H. J. Chapman, James Douglas, Charles Friedrich, A. Griessen, F. M. Mark, Trevor Monmouth, G. Schneider, Mortimer Thorn, J. J. Willis, and Alan Wynne. Edited by W. D. DRURY (Author of "Home Gardening," "Insects Injurious to Fruit," "Popular Bulb Culture," &c.). Very fully Illustrated. 1 vol., demy Qvo, cloth gilt, about IZQQpp., price 16/-, by post 16/8. Glues and Cements. A Practical Book on Making and Using Glues, Cements, and Fillings. Invaluable in every Workshop. By H. J. S. CASSAL (Author of "Chucks and Chucking," &c.). Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. All Books are Nett. CHAS. SCRIBNEE'S SONS, New YorTe. 9 Goat-Keeping for Amateurs : Being the Practical Management of Goat* for Milking Purposes. With a chapter on Diseases. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. ft Grape Growing for Amateurs. A Thoroughly Practical Book on Successful Vine Culture. By E. MOLYNEUX. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Greenhouse Construction and Heating. Containing Full Descriptions of the Various Kinds of Greenhouses, Stove Houses, Forcing Houses, Pits and Frames, with Directions for their Construction ; and also Descriptions of the Different types of Boilers, Pipes, and Heating Apparatus generally, with Instructions for Fixing the Same. By B. C. RAVENSCROFT. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/9. Greenhouse Management for Amateurs. The Best Greenhouses and Frames, and How to Build and Heat them, Illustrated Descriptions of the most suitable Plants, with general and Special Cultural Directions, and all necessary information for the Guidance of the Amateur. By W. J. MAY. Thiid Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Magnificently illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 5/-, by post 5/4. Greyhound, The: Its History, Points, Breeding, Rearing, Training, and Running. By HUGH DALZIEL. Second Edition, Revised and brought up to date by J. MAXTEK, assisted by THEODORE BEAUMONT RIXON. Illus- trated. In paper, price I/-, by pott 1/2. Guinea Pig, The, for Food, Fur, and Fancy. Its Varieties and its Manage- ment. By C. CUMBERLAND, F.Z.S. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by pott 1/2. In cloth gilt, with coloured frontispiece, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Handwriting, Character Indicated by. With Illustrations in Support of the Theories advanced, taken from Autograph Letters, of Statesmen, Lawyers, Soldiers, Ecclesiastics, Authors, Poets, Musicians, Actors, and other persons. Second Edition. By R. BAUGHAN. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Hardy Perennials and Old-fashioned Garden Flowers. Descriptions, alphabetically arranged, of the most desirable Plants for Borders, Rockeries, and Shrubberies, including Foliage, as well as Flowering Plants. By J. Wooi>. Profusely Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Hawk Moths, Book of British. A Popular and Practical Manual for all Lepidopterists. Copiously illustrated in black and white from the Author's own exquisite Drawings from Nature. By W. J. LUCAS, B.A. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/9. Horse Buying and Management. A Practical Handbook for the Guidance of Amateurs in Buying a Horse, with Instructions as to its after- management. By HENRY E. FAWCUS. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by pott 1/2. Horse-Keeper, The Practical. By GEORGE FLEMING, C.B., LL.D.. F.R.C.V.S., late Principal Veterinary Surgeon to the British Army, and Ex-President of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons. Illustrated with full page Plates. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Horse-Keeping for Amateurs. A Practical Manual on the Management of Horses, for the guidance of those who keep one or two for their personal use. By FOX RUSSELL. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2 ; cloth gilt, price 2/-, by pott 2/3. Horses, Diseases of: Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment. For the use of Amateurs. By HUGH DALZIEL. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2 ; cloth gilt, price 2/-, by post 2/2. Incubators and their Management. By J. H. SUTCLIFFE. Fifth Edition, Revised. Illustrated In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Jack All Alone. Being a Collection of Descriptive Yachting Reminiscences. By FRANK COV/PER, B.A., Author of "Sailing Tours." Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3/6, by post 3/10. Jiu-Jitsu and other Methods of Self-Defence. Describing and Illustrating the Japanese Art of Jiu-Jitsu, with a section specially adapted to Ladies, together with a description of a number of Tricks of Self-Defence, well within the capacity of anyone. By PERCY LONGHURST, Author of " Wrestling in the Catch-Hold and Grseco-Roman Styles." Profusely Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Journalism, Practical. How to Enter Thereon and Succeed. A Book foi all who think of " Writing for the Press." By JOHN DAWSON. Second Edition. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. All Books are Nett. 10 Published by L. UPCOTT GILL, London, and Kennel Management, Practical. A Complete Treatise on the Proper Management of Dogs for the Show Bench, the Field, or as Companions, with a chapter on Diseases— theft Causes and Treatment. By W. D. DRURY, assisted by well-known Specialists. Illustrated. In cloth, price 10/6, by post ll/-. Lace, A History of Hand-Made. By MRS. F. NEVILL JACKSON. With Supplementary Remarks by SIGNOR ERNESTO JESURUM. Exquisitely Illustrated with over 200 high-class Engravings of Old and Valuable Laces and their application to Dress as shown in numerous Portraits and Monochrome and Sepia Plates of great beauty. In crown 4£o, cloth gilt, price 18/-, by post 18/6. Edition de Luxe, on large paper, containing 12 specimens of Real Lace, handsomely bound in full leather, gilt, price £4 4/-, by pout £4 5/-. (A few copies only left at this price, after which there are 60 at £5 5/-, when the entire stock will be exhausted.) Lawn Tennis, Secrets of: A useful Guide to the Training and Playing of Lawn Tennis, with special chapters on Diet, by F. W. PAYN. In cloth, price 2/6, by post 2/10. Lawn Tennis Topics and Tactics. Representing the Gleanings of Twelve Seasons and of a Hundred and Twenty Tournaments concerning the Science of Lawn Tennis. By F. W. PAYN, B.A., LL.M. With 57 full-page Plates of Tennis Positions prepared from photographs taken from life specially for the work. In cloth gilt, price 6/-f by poi,t 6/4. Laying Hens, How to Keep, and to Rear Chickens in Large or Small Numbers, in Absolute Confinement, with perfect Success. By MAJOR G. F. MORANT. In paper, price bd., by post Id. Library Manual, The. A Guide to the Formation of a Library, and the Values of Rare and Standard Books. ByJ. H. SLATER, Barrister-at-Law. Third Edition. Revised and Greatly Enlarged. In cloth gilt, price 7/6, by post 7/10. Lizards, British. The Standard Work on the Subject, dealing with the Life- History and Distribution of the Lizards of the British Isles. By GERALD R. LEIGHTON, M.D., F.R.S.E. Copiously Illustrated by Drawings and Photo- graphs from Life, many by DOUGLAS ENGLISH and the Author. In cloth, price 5/-, by post 5/3. Magic Lanterns, Modern. A Guide to the Management of the Optical Lantern, for the Use of Entertainers, Lecturers, Photographers, Teachers, and others. By R. CHILD BAYLEY. Second Edition. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Marqueterie Staining, Including Vernis Martin, Certosina, Oil and Water Guding, Polishing, and Varnishing, with a full description of the necessary Tools and Instructions for their Use. By L. V. FITZGERALD . Fully Illustrated. In paper, price If-, by post 1/2. Marqueterie Wood- Staining for Amateurs. A Practical Handbook to Marqueterie Wood-staining, and Kindred Arts. By ELIZA TURCK. Pro- fusely Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Medicine and Surgery, Home. A Dictionary of Diseases and Accidents, and their Proper Home Treatment. For Family Use. By W. J. MACKENZIE, M.D. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Mice, Fancy: Their Varieties, Management, and Breeding. Fourth Edition, with additional matter and Illustrations. In coloured wrapper representing different varieties, price I/-, by post 1/2. Model Yachts and Boats: Their Designing, Making, and Sailing. Illustrated with 118 Designs and Working Diagrams. ByJ. DU V. GROSVENOR. Cheap Edition. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Monkeys, Pet, and How to Manage Them. By ARTHUR PATTERSON. Illus- trated. Second Edition, Revised. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. Motorist's and Cyclist's Route Map of England and Wales. Shows clearly all the Main, and most of the Cross, Roads, Railroads, and the Distances between the Chief Towns, as well as the Mileage from London. In addition to this, Routes of Thirty of the Most Interesting^ Tours are printed in red. Fourth Edition. The map is printed on specially prepared vellum paper, and is the fullest, handiest, and best up-to-date tourist's map in the market. In cloth, price I/-, by post 1/2. Mountaineering, Welsh. A Complete and Handy Guide to all the Best Roads and Bye-Paths by which the Tourist should Ascend the Welsh Mountains. By A. W. PERRY. With Numerous Maps. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Mushroom Culture for Amateurs. With Full Directions for Successful Growth in Houses, Sheds, Cellars, and Pots, on Shelves, and Out of Doors, including Pasture Lands. By W. J. MAY. Second Edition, thoroughly revised and with New Illustrations. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2. All Books are Nett. CHAS. SCEIBNER'S SONS, New York. 11 Naturalists' Directory, The. Invaluable to all Students and Collectors. In paper, price 1/6, by post 1/9. In cloth 2/-, by post 2/3. Needlework, Dictionary of. An Encyclopaedia of Artistic, Plain, and Fancy Needlework. By S. F. A. CAULFEILD and B. C. SAWARD. Magnificently Illustrated with 41 Embossed and Coloured Plates of Lace, Raised, and othei Needlework, besides a large number of Wood Engravings. 528pp. A cheap re-issue. In demy 4 price 5/6> by post 5/1° ; in *" Wildfowling, Practical. A very Complete and Essentially Practical Guide to the Art of the Fowler. With Descriptions of the various Birds usually met with. Second td.tum, Revised and Greatly Enlarged. By W. T. FALLON _ Profusely Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 6/-, by post 6/4. IHTild Sports in Ireland. Being Picturesque and Entertaining Descriptions of several visits paid to Ireland, with Practical Hints likely to be of service to the Angler Wildfowler, and Yachtsman. Bv JOHN BICKERDYKE, Author of "The Book of the All-Roiind Angler," &c. Beautifully illustrated from Photographs taken by the Author. Jn cloth gilt, price 6/-, by post 6/4 Window Ticket Writing. Containing full instructions on the Method of Mixing and using the Various Inks, &c., required, Hints on Stencilling as applied to Ticket Writing, together with Lessons on Glass Writing, Japanning ^v^ r^^Cl^rVlt^forrthe use of Learners and Shop Assistants By tt M . C. .ScoiT. Illustrated. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/2 W ceAaBdp?p1;r%e^t„^^nTgr^0^t,he rW^ld' Compared and Compiled by C. A. B. PI-EILSCHMIDT, of Sheffield. In paper, price I/-, by post 1/1 Wood Carving for Amateurs. Full instructions for producing all the $5S3lrt^SttiJiffvtm* Editedby R DEMI™ Workshop Makeshifts. Being a Collection of Practical Hints and Suggestions, including Directions for the Home Manufacture of Tools from odd pieces of Metal; for the use of Amateur Workers in Wood and W™«tiY« J ?y HA ^ S' ?^S,AL» F^lly Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 2/6, by post 2/9. Wrestling. A Practical Handbook upon the Catch-hold and Graco-Roman Styles of Wrestling ; a splendid system of Athletic Training. By PERCY LONG- HURST, winner in the Light-weight Competition, G.G.S , 1899. Author of ^f^l^fr^^T0^01 Self-Defenc^" Profusel'y Illustrated. °'/» Wrestling. See " Jiu-Jitsu," page 9. All Books are Nett. if You Require Printing ~f:\e Lucky House EXPERIENCED WORKMEN. LATEST MACHINERY. ELECTRIC PLANT. MODERATE COST. ESTIMATES FREE* Large or Small, Much or Little, a Card or a Catalogue, One or a Million, LET US GIVE YOU A PRICE For we have one of the finest equipped Printing Works in the Kingdom. Your work would be well done, and delivered TRUE TO TIME. The London & County Printing Works, Drury Lane, London, W.C. Telegrams: Bazaar, London. Telephone: 3466, Gerrard. LADY EVELYN COTTERELL'S Manager writes: " Please forward at your earliest scwt. Biscuit Meal and scwt. Ground Oats. I find my Chicks do not do on Biscuit Meal I eret off . . . as they do on yours. (Signed) "J. SMITH." The REV. W. VERNER LONGE writes: "Your Chick Feed is most satisfactory. Have not lost a single chick from an incubator hatch of January 7th, though we've had deep snow nearly ever since. Have now at a month old just begun to use meal. (Signed) "W. VERNER LONGE." A. R. HARRIS, Esq., writes: "Your Cooked Cereals are about the best mixture I have ever had for Turkeys. Please send on another lot at once. (Signed) ««A. R. HARRIS." J.C PHIPP&C0 MORETOMARSH.GLOS, TR.AIN YOUR. DOG TO TAKE HIS "SPRATT'S BISCUIT AVOID SWEETENED, SOFT, AND MEDICATED FOODS which cause indigestion, loss of coat, and attendant evils. The name of "SPR-ATT'S " on an article is THE HALL-MAR.K OF QUALITY. Ask your Tradesman for " SPRATT'S and see you get them. Send Postcard for Pamphlet on " COMMON-SENSE TREAT- MENT OF CANINE PETS," to — SPRATT'S PATENT, 24 and 25, Fenchurch Street, London, E.G. YOU surely have several things that arc becoming just so much lumber to you. and for which you would like to find a purchaser. You want many things that you do not care to buy at first hand but which you would liko to purchase secondhand, if in good condition. You appreciate sound, practical literary ar- ticles that give just the information you should find useful. You are often wanting Expert advice on one subjset or another- birds, books, brie a-brac, or anything else. You can get all this and more if you make use of" THE BAZAAR, EXCHANGE AND MART" News- paper. You can buy, sell, or exchange ANYTHING through it- You will find in it Practical Articles written bv EXPERTS in their several de- partments. PRICE 2d. Of all Bookstalls and Newsagents, or direct by post for 3d. in stamps from the Offices: BAZAAR BUILDINGS. DRURY LANE. LONDON. W.C. HUTU'S SELECT Strong bushes, with splendid fibrous roots. The following collections of Roses are strongly recom- mended as being good for Cutting, Garden Decoration, Or Exhibition, and are such as will suc- ceed in al- most any soil or situa- tion where Roses can be grown. Pull Descriptive Catalogues of Roses, Carnations, Peonies, Clematis, Dahlias, Herbaceous Plants, Select Seeds, and Home - Grown Bulbs Post Free on application. COLLECTION C. This Collection consists of 12 very finest Hybiid Tea Roses in cultivation. All distinct, price los. 6d. Carriage Paid for remit- tance with Order. COLLECTION D. Contains 12 splendid Tea Roses, in- cluding the finest new varieties in cultivation, price 153. Carnage Paid for remittance with Order. The Floral Farms, R. H. BATH, LTD., WISBECH GENERAL LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA— BERKELEY RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. i •>««•« J»J*: SEP 911 1 WRg' ^Vssjrj^ ! TORUBRARY LOAN ,. U k v!V. OF CAJ -F, BERK. \ pvr 2 1973 6 & WFCTJDJ NOVS ' 73.8 PM / LD 21-1 OOm-1, '54 (1887816) 476 ,YB 48542