^Marine > g d •H 0 CO,C • 0) S 0*0 r* E Q »*>*r» a *H o a co IH co*-* > «*-< co X | Q) ttf Q) Jg Q) • G © a xt uw CO +» 02 • fa d 0) • jj ^> Ct) «Q fl) 13 aoo •H 0)0) 0) co fa a) C+» d 0 «t* «JtJ «J CO C fa CO «* 0 6 cJ G) d »»«H COO t3 CO CO 0 a) OH a* «J JC «M (Q 0) co 0) C b c 0 •H c D 4* 0) O 0) o CO -(j _Q 'u -(-> to • 1—* Q c IH 0) O O w VI 3 O A RELIGIOUS SERVICE 31 A temporary structure had been erected and improvised as a church. It was completely cov- ered with bunting of the national colours, our own stars and stripes prominently figuring in the grace- ful drapery. (See illustration.) Here an hour's religious service was held. The gold-mitred Bishop of the Orthodox Greek Church in the Province of Livonia officiated and made an address, which, though brief, was filled to the brim with grateful and earnest Christian sentiment. By request of the Bishop, our Consul-General, Dr. Crawford, translated and repeated the address in English. This is the translation: In the name of the Russian Orthodox Church we greet you, our American brethren, and bid you a hearty welcome to the shores of our Empire, and in evangelical love we pray that the blessings of God may descend in abundance upon you and upon your fellow- citizens. It is that divine love which Jesus Christ preached to us, — the love that knowing no difference between nations, or religions, or individuals, has brought you here. It is that love that is not stayed by difficulties nor by vast distances; that love that overcomes all obstacles and brings succour to all that are in need; it is that Christian brotherly love that has led you across the great ocean and over the inland seas which separate your country from ours that you may 32 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW bring food to our people who are in hunger and have no bread. We offer with all our heart our prayer to God that you and your compatriots may, among other great blessings, every season enjoy bountiful harvests. May God give you a pleasant sojourn here, and guide you safely home to your beloved land of philanthropy, prosperity, and happiness. Notwithstanding the beautiful Christian spirit of that Bishop's address, I cannot refrain from quoting the following from a letter by Com- missioner Blankenburg to the Philadephia Times, March, 1892. It seems that the Russian Church has for its found- ation stone wretchedness, ignorance, and superstition; that to remove them would be to endanger the great influence and absolute control which the priests now wield. We see an object lesson of this statement on every side; look at the villages with their miserable huts, abodes not fit for even cattle to live in; their dirty streets, wretchedness unspeakable, and then behold — the magnificent church building that rears its proud steeples and fine cupolas in the midst of squalor and want. The cost of all the huts and abodes in many of these villages — and almost every one has a church — cannot nearly approximate the cost of the church build- ing alone ! If the priests would devote but one-half of their labours to the furtherance of the things of this world and the other half to that of the world to come, A RELIGIOUS SERVICE 33 they would confer an inestimable blessing on their people, though they might lose some of the power they now wield. Better yet, make school-masters of nine out of ten priests, or if they are not willing to change their vocation send enlightened schoolmasters abroad, separate church and state and a wonderful change will soon be wrought. An intelligent Russian, who, as most of the intelli- gent ones do, spoke French, told me that the wealth of the Russian Church is almost incalculable; that it could pay the Russian national debt (some $3,500,000,- ooo) and would then be enormously wealthy. Yet this same church has hardly been heard of during the great distress prevalent in so many provinces; no soup kitchens have been opened by it ; no contributions given. It seems bent only upon saving souls for the world to come and upon laying up for itself the riches of this world. The Bishop having presented the jewelled cross to the Americans present to be kissed, and that ceremony having been performed, the service was concluded with chanting and songs of praise by a fine male double-quartette, and the last nine bags of flour required to complete the train load were put on board, each of the following named persons carrying one bag to the car: Count Andre Bobrin- skoy; the Governor of the Province; the Mayor of the City; the City Prefect; the Director-General 34 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW of the Railways; the Chief of the Customs; the Resident Consul of the United States; the Consul- General, and your Commissioner. Then the train sped away on its errand of mercy amid the cheers of the populace. Under government direction trains carrying food supplies were given right of way, sometimes causing half a day's stoppage of passenger cars. One train of cars was sent for distribution among fifteen districts, among which were the following, the names of distributing agents appended: Government of Orel Prince Kurakirt Government of Simbursk, St. Vevuline Mr. Rodionof Government of Nishni Novgorod, St. Sviashsk. . .Mrs. Masloff Government of Saratof , St. Atkarsk Mr. Shidlovsky Government of Tamboff, St. Fitkingoff Mrs. Bostrom Government of Tamboff, St. Tokahevka Mrs. Plahovo Government of Tamboff, St. Morshansk Princess Sagarin Government of Saratoff, St. Saltikovka Mrs. Saburoff Government of Orel, St. Babarakine Mrs. S. Pizareff Government of Skopino ; to Count Leo Tolstoy. I would direct attention to some facts bearing upon the locality and the extent of territory affected by the famine, the measures of relief administered by the government and people of Russia, as well as that given by our own people and others, and will briefly refer to the causes of the DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 35 great calamity. When it is remembered that the Russian Empire, with a population of one hundred and eighty millions, embraces more than half of Europe and one-third of Asia, an area of 8,647,- 657 square miles, nearly three times greater than the United States of America, exclusive of Alaska, or one-seventh of the land surface of the globe, and that European Russia alone contains a popu- lation in the fifty provinces of one hundred and twenty millions, of whom about half are of the dependent peasant class, one may begin to realize something of the difficulties and the dangers that beset the way of the one man ordained, by the law of an hereditary monarchy, to govern and sustain so vast c. realm. I wonder no longer that, for se- ditious utterances or privy conspiracy, thousands have been banished to Siberia in order that peace may be insured to the millions ; I only wonder that so much sentiment and sympathy have been lavished in our land upon the said political exiles, with none whatever for the true man at the helm, at that time Alexander III., who, I believe, would have sacrificed his life any day for the safety of the great Ship of State and the happiness of his sub- jects. 36 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW On New Year's Day, 1893, the Czar, Czarina, and the Czarevitch held a grand New Year's reception at Gat chin. After it was over, the Czar, with his head bared, and in the presence of a thousand of the populace, blessed the Neva. At a later discussion on the matter of a dis- tinctive title for the Emperor, a courtier pro- posed that, "as the father was known as the Liberator, the Czar should be named Alexander the Just." "Oh, no!';> the Czar exclaimed, 'I am and shall remain the Peasant Emperor. Some of my nobility style me so in derision, scoffing at my affection for the Moujick, but I accept the title as an honour. I have tried to procure for the humble a means of livelihood, and this I think is the best and only means of keeping the world going. " Ode to the Emperor Alexander III. For the great good heart that holds thee Firm and strong in love's straight road; For the wonders of thy purpose To help bear the peasant's load; For thy brainy power that governs Thy vast empire's wide domain, DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 37 All the world will rise to laud thee And extol thy noble reign. F. B. R., 1893. The territory covered by the relief work of the Russian government and organized private phi- lanthropy embraced seventeen governments or provinces with a population of thirty-six millions. Of these, more than half, or about twenty millions, were as destitute of subsistence as was the widow of Sarepta at the time of the prophet Elijah's oppor- tune visit at her house. The Russian peasant was in a far worse plight, however, for whereas the widow faced starvation only for herself and one son, there, over every threshold, gaunt famine stared into the pale emaciated faces of a score or more of men, women, and helpless children, and no Elijah was there to work a miracle upon the meal barrel and empty oil vessels. The question is often asked: 'What caused the wretched destitution of the Russian peas- antry?' Of the various theories advanced no single one seems to afford an adequate explanation. The popular opinion that it was the result mainly of the drought of the summer of 1891, when the 38 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW hot east winds burned up everything, is only partially correct. For several years preceding, the same conditions prevailed though to less degree, so that the poor peasants, disheartened and impoverished, were unable to cope with the grim destroyer when the almost total failure of 1891 befell them. The normal state of these people is so close to the verge of starvation, having nothing laid up for days of misfortune, that a single sea- son's crop failure absolutely prostrates them. The loss of their horses, cows, and sheep, through their inability to feed this stock, worked a double injury, inasmuch as it not only deprived them of the assistance of these animals in farm work, but also of the manure so essentially necessary for maintaining the fertility of the soil. At the best of times, by reason of insufficient fertilizing, the peasants have been compelled to let the land lie fallow for from three to five successive years to prevent entire exhaustion of the soil. Mr. James Besant, a devoted worker for relief in the Province of Samara, said the loss of horses was immense and the death-rate of cattle was increasing, so that out of a million in the province not over four hund- red thousand would survive. Most of the unfortu- DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 39 nate peasants were without cattle and had not sufficient seed to sow their fields, and had nothing for subsistence until the next harvest. The Vyestnik Yeoropy, a St. Petersburg periodi- cal of March, 1892, attributed the droughts, which had become chronic, to the destruction of the forests, which has been going on during the past fifty years. It said : ' ' The territory drained by the Volga, Don, and Dnieper was formerly covered with extensive forests, whose deep shades preserved the springs from exhaustion. These forests have disappeared. The Don is being gradually choked with sand washed down from the desolated forest tracts/1 The writer concluded therefrom that the prevailing unfortunate conditions were the result of slowly working climatic changes and affirmed that no thorough attempt had been made to strike at the root of the difficulty. The application of our American system of irrigation would be more efficacious than hundreds of ship- loads of food, which at best can afford only tem- porary relief. A Russian count, speaking on the subject, said : The moral and physical condition of the peasantry has greatly deteriorated since their emancipation from 40 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW serfdom by the act of Alexander the Second, thirty years ago. The peasants have never learned how to use their liberty, aye, slaves yet to ignorance and a non-personal machine-religion, they know not the meaning of the word liberty. A writer in the Contemporary Review, March, 1892, said: "Bad harvests in Russia are so much a matter of course that the peasant has learned to await them as he awaits the coming of the tax gatherer.' The taxes then were of three kinds, imperial, by the State, which includes the Ecclesi- astical rates ; local, by the Zemstvo, and communal by the village Commune. The Zemstvo is a kind of local administration which supplements the action of the rural communes and takes cognizance of those higher public wants which individual communes cannot satisfy. The principal duties are to keep the roads and bridges in proper repair, to provide means of conveyance for the rural police and other officials, to elect Justices of the Peace, to look after primary education and sanitary affairs, to watch the state of the crops, to take measures against approaching famine, and in the event of famine occurring to attend to the admin- istration of relief. DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 41 Unhappily the feudal system held the farm-lands away from real ownership by the farmers. This system, which of old prevailed in the Middle Ages, was abolished in England in 1660; in Scotland in 1747; in France at the Revolution of 1789; in Ger- many and Austria after the Revolution of 1848-50. Now the stars in their courses, which fought from heaven against Sisera, are shining so brightly over Russia that I deem it safe to predict that Russia will fall in line with these other nations and feudalism will vanish like mist before the morning sun. The land was imposed upon every family under the Emancipation Law in quantity proportionate with the number of males in the household. The land dues or rent was required to be paid whether crops grew or failed, and as the allotted land was not more than enough to keep the women of the family employed in the cultivation, the men had to find employment elsewhere or become a burden upon the workers. And rarely was employment to be secured on any terms. When it could be had, it was only at wages equalling fifteen to twenty cents per day . I heard of men working the entire summer of 1891 for eight cents per day. Russia's 42 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW protective tariff has not availed, as in the United States, to build up manufacturing industries. They have them in the large cities, but they are very few in comparison with the population. In the villages I saw none, not even a tinsmith, black- smith, or potter, — absolutely nothing in the indus- trial line outside of their primitive farming. And in this they were truly antiquated. Their plow, called a soktra, was the same old wooden soil scratcher that was in use a thousand years ago. It was made of wood with a little sharp spade- point of iron. Against all modern agricultural implements and labour-saving machines the Rus- sian peasant sets his face like flint. Attempts to introduce them have been met with determined resistance. In all the region where famine pre- vailed I saw no truck patches, vegetable gardens, nor fruit trees, nor any markets nor stores for the sale of the products of these necessities for com- fortable living. Thus it may be seen that the sad condition of these people is not to be reckoned solely as the result of a single year's calamity but rather as the outcome of a combination of evils of which ignor- ance is the chief, a culmination of long-existing, DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 43 unfortunate conditions connected with the neces- sarily defective political economy of their country, with intoxication and with their religion, — a curi- ous blending of Paganism and Christianity. Happily, their great ruler is alive to a sense of his serious responsibilities; the higher classes are active in support of his beneficent measures for their relief, and the people of our favoured land have thrown a cheery light upon the dark picture that the world may see it and arise to lift up their fallen brothers and sisters. It would seem after what I have said, as though there could have been no very bright side to life in Russia at the time of my sojourn there, but I assure you there was and that it was my privilege to see it. The total grant by the Russian government for food and seed-grain in 1891 and up to May I, 1892, amounted to over $150,000,000. This grant was made of necessity in the form of a loan to the peasants, it being wisely regarded as incompatible with the stability of government to give away money absolutely from the public exchequer. Of course the repayment of the loan, depending solely upon the ability of the borrowers to return it 44 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW from the products of future good crops, was a remote possibility. In addition to this the Emperor gave from his private purse ten million dollars, and it is estimated that the prosperous Russian people added to this fund fifty millions more. The Society of Friends in England raised a fund of two hundred thousand dollars, of which eight thousand dollars was contributed by Philadelphia members of the Society of Friends. This fund was employed in relief work through a committee of their own. The English in Moscow, then numbering about 800, had raised a distress fund with the assistance of friends in England. These funds they had entrusted to the Grand Duchess Elizabeth, patron- ess of the Red Cross Society, and grand-daughter of Queen Victoria. This lady had taken great interest in the relief of the famine sufferers; a bazaar, which she had arranged, had in five days netted about $45,000. The money value of the supplies sent from Philadelphia and money given directly by the Philadelphia Relief Committee into the hands of the Committee in Russia, for purchase of food, DESTITUTION AND RELIEF 45 seed-corn, cattle, fodder, etc., may be stated at three hundred and fifty to four hundred thousand dollars. Twenty thousand dollars in money was taken over by the Indiana's commissioners, and ten thousand dollars by myself for purchase of Russian seed-grain ; or potatoes, cattle, or for other special needs such as might be made known upon the spot. From the United States five cargoes of flour and grain and provisions were sent, — first, the Indiana from Philadelphia, February 22nd, with 2500 tons of flour and other provisions of a miscellaneous character ; second, the Missouri, the latter part of March, from New York for Libau with about 2000 tons of flour given by the Min- nesota millers; third, the Conemaugh, April 23rd, from Philadelphia for Riga with 33,163 sacks and 516 barrels of flour, 400 sacks of rice and 100 packages of provisions; fourth, the Tynehead, in May, from New York for Riga, with the Red Cross cargo of shelled corn; and, fifth, the Leo, in June, from New York for St. Petersburg with one- half of a small cargo of flour given by our country people under the auspices of The Christian Her- ald, Dr. Talmadge's newspaper. These all arrived safely at destination, their cargoes being in good 46 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW condition on discharge excepting that of the Tynehead, the Red Cross Indian corn, half of which had fermented and was cast overboard. It is much better to send wheat or rye than Indian corn to feed Russian peasants. They have little acquaintance with corn and know but little of the way of preparing it for food. Rye is their main support. The wheat flour sent from America was used chiefly in admixture with rye, supplied by purchase from the more highly favoured sec- tions of their own country. A Russian nobleman told me that all the flour received from America was of most excellent quality. rt V-t H weeks to some favoured shrine in the Holy City, I now at nightfall, asleep, outstretched upon the cobblestones in the byways of the public streets; of the institute for foundlings, within whose walls are 17,000 mother- forsaken infants. These words afford but the merest suggestion of what may be seen in Moscow within three days. Like a vision of the night all these pass before me, but, unlike a 54 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW dream, this picture will stand out clear while life and memory endure. From Moscow to Bogoroditsk (English: "The Mother of God") in the Government of Tula, the centre of one of the distressed districts, is a journey of a night and half a day. It had been arranged with young Count Paul Bobrinskoy, cou- sin of Count Andre Bobrinskoy of St. Petersburg, that he should take this journey with me, follow- ing it up with a more extended tour in the famine districts of Tula and Riazan. At Bogoroditsk, I was kindly entertained under the roof of the old manor house, formerly called the Palace of Cath- arine the Second. Here, belonging to the Bobrin- skoys, who are descendants of one of Empress Catharine's principal advisers, is an estate cover- ing ten thousand acres, embracing several villages, and, until the distribution of land was made under the act of emancipation of Emperor Alex- ander II., the grandfather of the present Emperor, Nicholas II., lawful ownership in thirty thousand serfs, now regarded as wards by the owners of the estate. Catharine II., known as " Catharine the Great, ' was born in 1729; she was Empress of Russia from Oj o O 1 O a I o W o o 4) r. 4) •^ C ^3 d S 'O ii o d • •n « » n* P« VH > c-.S d co 4) •d s 3 o -1: S I ^ 4) O 4) 3 5 o «*-. d 'ft ° > •^ CD *co ^ t W .2 ^ c S "5 ' 4) c Ud o C C 4) O t/J V-i O M •£ n-1 o nj co^| -t-> -(-) d C & v G +* S'-SS a 2 4> V-« rG r/T V ** o w c CJ to o •— o ^ all 4) ^S 6 -^ *0 S .2 ^J ^> p. *^3 "3 3 'S -M R JS « « *" O •*"* CD M ^ i-< J2 .tJ "O -S a to 4> 4) d a ~ a d to _^ *o a •H T-J = ^ •S d 'O d ^ o °'C § rt -ala "12 "S °.a §6^ 4) O & O o s « « to > 3 0) "o 3 C 4) FROM PETROGRAD TO MOSCOW 55 1762 to 1796, when she died. She improved the administration of the Empire, introduced a new code of laws, and encouraged art and literature. She has been called "the Semiramis of the North, " and Voltaire said, with reference to her, "Light now comes from the North. ' Rambaud, in his History of Russia, said of her: "No sovereign since Ivan the Terrible had ex- tended the frontiers of the Empire by such vast conquests. She had given Russia for boundaries the Niemen, the Dniester, and the Black Sea." Tracing the lineage of their hereditary monarchy from the reign of Catharine II., history gives us the following record: Paul L, her son, born 1754, was enthroned Emperor 1796, and was assassinated 1801. His son, Alexander I., was born 1777; enthroned 1801, and died 1825. His son, Nicholas I., born 1796, when his father was 19 years of age, enthroned 1825, at 29 years of age, and died 1855. His son, Alexander II., was born 1818; enthroned 1855; emancipated the serfs 1861; and was assassin- ated 1 88 1. His son, Alexander III., was born 1845. He mar- ried Princess Dagmar, daughter of the King of Den- 56 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW mark, 1866, at 21 years of age. He died November i, 1894. His son, Czar Nicholas II., was born May, 1868, enthroned 1894; on November 26, 1894, he married Princess Alix of Hesse, a grand duchy and state of the German Empire. She is a granddaughter of Queen Victoria. Church of the Ascension, Petrograd, Erected as Memorial to Czar Alexander II. who was Assassinated on this Spot March i, 1881. VII Visiting tKe Poor Peasants COUNT PAUL'S elder brother, Count Vladimir Bobrinskoy, head of the Red Cross Association of the district, was in charge of the distribution for the relief of the famine sufferers, and as Chief of the Zemstvo he directed all measures for govern- mental assistance. United in constant labours with his brothers and a sister, a beautiful, court- eous lady, hospitals and soup kitchens, bakeries and orphanages were maintained throughout the entire district. My first day passed in visiting as many of these active agencies as were within easy reach. These good people during the entire winter had been feeding and clothing their peasants, ministering to their sick and providing for the dead and dying among them, and for a long time they did all this out of their private resources. I was shown a large bakery, in which good rye and wheat loaves were being baked for families unable to bake for themselves. I was taken to a children's 57 58 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW home, a little orphanage, where there were forty children all under eight years of age. Some of the parents had died of cold and hunger, or of disease. This nursery was under the constant supervision of Countess Bobrinskoy. Next was a storehouse, where the American wheat flour and the rye flour purchased with government money, were mixed together, as the peasants were so used to dark rye bread that they did not care as much for plain white bread. Next day, with Count Vladimir Bobrinskoy, I was taken upon his official monthly house-to-house inspection of the village of Tovorkova, ten miles distant. Arriving at this village of about three hundred straw-thatched huts and five thousand inhabitants, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we first secured the company of the two elders of the village. Leaving our carriage we started on a tramp afoot through black mud, going from door to door interviewing the head of each family, the Count noting in a book, systematically, the requirements of the household for the next monthly distribution, facts as to the number now dependent, how many at work, the number sick, if any, etc. The elders were supposed to give a rt a ri K < V IS IT ING THE POOR PEASANTS 59 the cue if any doubt existed as to the peasant's statement, and in such case we all visited the barn, uncovered the meal barrel or untied the bag string that we might see for ourselves what remained to tide the family over to the next distribution. In every case, save one, we found the pitiful story only too true. The condition of these people was deplorably miserable. In their earthen-covered hovels of two rooms lived families of from ten to forty human beings beside cattle of the ordinary kind. Entering one house in which lived forty people, an aged father and mother, nine sons with their wives and children, I was met just within the door by two cows. Opening the door leading into the other room a third cow challenged my progress in that direction. She had been called into the parlour for milking. "Where do these forty sleep? " I inquired of the Count. The ready reply, applicable to all such peasant dwellings, was, ' ' In winter on the brick enclosure of the oven (which they call a stove) , on bunks or shelves and on the floor; in summer, in the barn or with the cows in the outer room.' This family, the Count in- formed me, had never asked for nor re- 60 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW ceived outside assistance; they were accounted rich peasants. Five hours were required for this inspection business and now it was nine o'clock. Our tramp ended where it began, at the abode of the peasant Chief Elder. By this worthy man we were invited to enter and partake of his hospitality. This home differed in nothing from the others we had visited. His family comprised twenty persons. The elder's wife and five sons bade us welcome. Three comely young women, wives of as many of the sons, stood within, each with a baby in her arms. A group of younger children, chickens running about the floor, and two pet rooks, comprised the family circle. Three little heads, with half a dozen bright, wondering eyes, looked down upon us from a broad shelf, high up, two or three feet below the roof, where they had been put to bed. The table, a single board, a foot and a half by four feet, in a corner, surrounded by rough wooden seats, was quickly spread with a coarse white cover. The samovar was brought out, a charcoal fire kindled within it, a draft being secured by connecting a tin pipe between it and the stove ; glass tumblers for the tea were placed before us, for tea is always > -A- •%fesS£v; V.,- ' ".». ffe^|JH^i£kj££2 §irtR*.i%- Copyright, Underwood & Underwood. Russian Peasants Making Hay. VISITING THE POOR PEASANTS 61 served in glass tumblers in Russia. Then the Count chatted with the party in their native lan- guage until the samovar began to boil. Besides the tea, — which was excellent, the elder placed before us a small bottle of vodka, a large loaf of black bread, a dozen hard-boiled eggs, and four salted cucumbers. Having eaten nothing for ten hours, I had begun to realize the dreadf ulness of a Russian famine. An intimation was made by the Count that we would abuse the hospitality of our host if we would not consume about all that he had provided, so everything vanished saving half of the big loaf. They were evidently actuated by St. Paul's counsel to the Corinthians — "If one of them that believe not biddeth you to a feast, and ye are dis- posed to go, whatsoever is set before you, eat, asking no question for conscience sake. ' It was several days before I recovered wholly from the effects of my share of the meal, — four hard-boiled eggs and a cucumber. And this was the home of a "rich " peasant, one who, in the midst of the famine, had never asked for help. One of the daughters, a pretty girl of sixteen years, con- trary to the custom of unmarried women, had her 62 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW hair concealed under a kerchief which the Count asked her to remove that I might see her hair. Blushfully she complied, and a long glossy plait fell to her waist. The girl's object in wearing the head covering was supposedly to prepare her- self for the time, probably very near, when, being married, it would be a shame to her to display nature's lavish head adornment. In most Russian villages the young women are not allowed to choose their husbands. The par- ents do this for them, and the father will some- times take up with the first one that happens to be recommended to him by a neighbour or by some one who has done him a favour, or is in a position to enable him to befriend him, — somewhat after the manner that little offices are bestowed in our country for political favours. Their daughters are never permitted after marriage to remain at home, but invariably go to live with the hus- band's parents, no matter how numerous their offspring, until the couple can set up for them- selves. The following references to Russian weddings in well-to-do families, I quote from Hubbak's Russian Realities : VISITING THE POOR PEASANTS 63 The Russian wedding is a very important ceremony, which may be performed either in the church or in the house. In each case the bride and bridegroom are endued with crowns, and exchange rings during the religious celebration, which is preceded by a civil mar- riage. The custom — in some parts of Russia at least — is for the bride to start on the wedding journey in white, and it is quite usual to see the whole wedding party at the station. The bride wears her orange blossoms and carries an enormous bouquet; the bridesmaids appear in the most taking hats they can command. The first to enter the train is the bridegroom, who has a blue frock-coat with brass buttons and a con- spicuous knot of white ribbon. When he has in- spected the location in the train he rejoins the party, and the chief bridesmaid conducted by the best man, goes in to verify matters. Then the bride is handed in by the best man, and the whole party troop after them. The conversation is continued until the last moment, but neither confetti nor rice was employed on any occasion that I have seen. I believe that the evening is the favourite time for weddings, as it is in many other countries. Concerning the guests at a breakfast he says: Russian meals have often been described, but the reality is none the less interesting. One is asked to form part of a gathering for a country lunch, or break- fast, more properly. On arrival after a long drive the guests are set down to an apparently sumptuous 64 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW repast, including wine, beer, or vodka at the outset. When everyone has finished, the hostess asks if the party would like to spend the hour before the ensuing breakfast in the garden or on a stroll. Then one discovers that the feast just ended is only preliminary and that the real lunch is yet to come. I may mention that the usual form among Russians is to thank the hostess at the end of the repast and to kiss her hand. It is allowed to degenerate foreigners to substitute the handshake, if preferred. From Tovorkova we started on a tour through a number of districts in the Government of Tula and Kursk, in an ancient phaeton drawn by three stout horses. My companion was Count Paul Bobrinskoy, a handsome fellow, twenty-four years of age. We visited peasants, their fields, cows, horses, and workers. Over dreadfully bad roads we were jolted and knocked about, going through Suckromna, Buturke, Muravlauke, Beresevka, and Karidzena to Orlovka. In all these places there were evidences of extreme poverty and of welcome relief through the past three months. At Muravlauke a stop made at a public house for change of horses I utilized for a little personal refreshment. Our lunch, which we had brought with us, was unfolded in the midst of a curious, Count Leo Tolstoy. Photographed in Moscow, 1892. VISITING THE POOR PEASANTS 65 interested party of peasants, mostly the family of the publican. Hearty thanks came from the head of the family to be sent to America for the money given to buy the Conemaugh's cargo. One of them, gazing at me with wonder at the prodi- gality of our lunch of sandwiches and sardines, said in a tone of great surprise, in Russian, and translated for me by the Count — " My! He even wears a hat like our own/ It was evident that one coming so far on such a mission was expected by them to wear at least a red hat and to have some gilt trimming on his coat. Early next morning Count Vladimir Bobrinskoy with his sister left for some hospital work in a distant village. With Count Paul, the younger brother, I set out in a tarantass with three stout horses for a drive of a hundred versts through the country. The roads are simply wagon tracks through open fields and, at long intervals, across unbridged streams. We twice crossed the river Don upon bridges of most rickety construction, consisting of logs covered with earth and stone, in one case so narrow that we were obliged to take off one of our three horses before we could get on. The snow had long since disappeared, disclosing 66 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW in the fields a most miserable prospect for the approaching crop of grain. Cattle were very few, but here and there I saw some thin, half-starved cows rooting in the ground, — literally "rooting,' for only roots were to be found to eat as a result of all their labour and pains. Many cottages had been dismantled by the horses eating the straw from the roofs. From all of this I was quite prepared to hear as I did through letters from Russia, that the crops well-nigh failed again and that the destitution of the peasant was as great as ever. We stopped for the night in Orlovka, at the resi- dence of Mr. PizarefT, who, as Chairman of the Red Cross Association for his district, was actively engaged with his wife in every branch of the relief work. VIII WitK Count Tolstoy COUNT LEO TOLSTOY, known also as Lyoff or LyefT Nikolaievich Tolstoy, was born in the Gov- ernment of Tula, Russia, August 28, 1828 ; he died at Astapova, November 20, 1910. He was educated in the University of Kazan and served in the army in the Caucasus and in the Crimean War, being appointed commander of a battery in 1855. He took part in the battle of the Tchernaya, was in the storming of Sebastopol, and after it, was sent as a special courier to St. Petersburg. He retired at the end of the campaign. After the liberation of the Serfs he lived on his estates, working with and relieving the peasants, and also devoting himself to study. • • • • • • • Mr. PazarefT had invited Count Tolstoy, whose base of operations was in the neighbouring Province of Riazan, to join us at supper. The Count came, like our Yankee Doodle, riding on a pony, a little 67 68 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW black beauty, on which he sat with all the dignity of a First Regiment trooper. In appearance the famous novelist and philanthropist was more commanding than handsome, in manner easy and kindly, in conversation quite unreserved, not lead- ing, but as ready to listen as to talk. After supper he mounted his pony and galloped away, first inviting us to call upon him on the morrow. With three frisky horses our drive was resumed next morning. Our first stop was at Beghitshevka, Tolstoy's headquarters for famine-relief work. We found the Count, dressed in his grey peasant's smock, sitting at a table in his study, a small, unpretentious, simply furnished plank-floored room. With a hearty welcome he presented us to his daughter, Princess Mary, who, while presid- ing with grace over the affairs of the house in her mother's absence, devoted herself, with her father, to their great work of charity in the surrounding country. A plan of the province given to me showed twenty-six soup-houses and bakeries, eight hospi- tals, and seven sanitariums under the care of Count Tolstoy. As a result of his telling me that he had notified the Government Committee that he would WITH COUNT TOLSTOY 69 need no more assistance during the season and that he now regretted having done so because there was increased suffering and want caused by sick- ness, I telegraphed to Riga for a carload of flour to be shipped to him. After my return to Phila- delphia I received a letter from him thankfully acknowledging receipt of it. A photographed copy of this latter is on page In answer to a question whether he was engaged in writing a book, "Yes,' he replied. As to its subject, he said, 'I think that the title will be, 'The Kingdom of God is in You, ' ' asking me at the same time if he had given the right English translation of the Bible text. His talk was chiefly about the sad condition of the peasantry, and the great progress of the Christian religion, of which the sending of these relief ships from America to Russia was a sure evidence. 'The time seems to have come,' he said, "when the Fatherhood of God and the brotherhood of man are being universally acknow- ledged." Connected with the Count's study was a large room with a rough old plank floor. At a table in a corner sat an aged man, of over four score years, 70 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW in shabby clothing. Princess Mary, after explain- ing his presence with them, brought him out for an introduction, and read to me a lot of queer religious rhymes written by the old fellow. She said he had come last winter telling her father that he had a vision of and message from God that he should spend his last days with Count Tolstoy. Taking him at God's word the Count admitted him. Ask- ing Princess Mary what her father would do with him upon return to their home in Moscow, she expressed the opinion that he would take the old man with him. In reply to his inquiry regarding my stay in Russia, I told the Count that it was near its end as I had important business to transact in Liverpool, England, early in June. The Count, expressing his regret that my stay was to be so short, I dropped the American adage — "Time is money." "No," he said, "time is not money; that is placing too low an estimate on the value of time. " Standing outside the door to remount our tarantass, I remarked to Princess Mary, looking up at the gathering clouds, "I hope it will not rain today. ' Beaming with brightness she said, "I hope it will." I thought of the long journey & J^ Jr ^^ fc-^« ^^ *^^^V^Ow Facsimile of a Letter from Count Tolstoy to the Author. scZ/ffa&X %/ , * < WITH COUNT TOLSTOY 71 ahead of us in the open wagon ; her thoughts were upon the struggling grain in the fields. It rained, and I was well watered, but I took the drenching with equanimity as I thought of Miss Mary and the starving peasants. Hon. Rudolph Blankenburg wrote the follow- ing to a Philadelphia newspaper: The rumour that Count Tolstoy has been antago- nized and even threatened by the Russian Government for the manner and methods of his work can be traced to the same source that invariably tries to belittle, misrepresent, and even falsify everything pertaining to Russia. There is an antagonism to Russia and her Government in Germany, as well as in England, that seeks in every way to propagate falsehood and to cloud the truth, and, as most of our information from and about Russia is gathered from English and Ger- man sources, it would be well for us to discount largely the wonderful stories we hear from and about this land. When I arrived in Europe the story was flashed all over the civilized world that Count Tolstoy had been ordered to his estates by the Government and that he was a prisoner! I read editorials on this ;< high- handed outrage" in some of the leading papers of Europe, and must confess the news struck me very unfavourably and prejudiced me a good deal. Almost the first question I asked upon my arrival was regard- ing the truth of this story, and the reply received 72 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW from a high and well-posted source was: 'There is absolutely no truth in it. ' My informant added that the Count did give the Government concern occasion- ally on account of his peculiar notions about many things, but this story about his arrest and imprison- ment was not true. Count Tolstoy is at present, as stated in yesterday's St. Petersburg Gazette, not on his estate, ;'Iassnaja Poljana, " in the Government of Rjasan, but in the Busuluk district of Samara, 500 miles east of his home. It would really be well not to be in a hurry to accept as authentic all the news we receive about Russia through the channels above indicated. The ill-feeling of these countries towards Russia prejudices them to the extent that they magnify the dark sides and scarcely mention the bright ones. The London Daily Mail, January 17, 1901, printed the following despatch from Odessa : While journeying north from Livadia, Emperor Nicholas, during a breakfast luncheon at Tula, capital of the Government of the same name in Central Russia, sent a delicately worded message expressing his desire to see Count Leo Tolstoy. Contrary to expectation Tolstoy accepted the invitation and soon appeared at the railway station. In his peasant's garb he presented a striking contrast to the richly dressed entourage of the Czar. Emperor Nicholas kissed him on the mouth and both cheeks, and Tolstoy readily responded. Then a conversation commenced, the Czar asking WITH COUNT TOLSTOY 73 his guest for an opinion upon the imperial proposal for the limitation of armaments. Count Tolstoy replied that he could only believe in it when his Majesty should set the example to other nations. On the Czar mentioning the difficulties of the problem and the necessity for the aid of the united powers the Count softened somewhat and expressed the hope that his Majesty would be able to attain some definite results or at any rate to formulate some workable plan at the conference. The Czar, thanking him for his good wishes, said he would be pleased if Tolstoy could be induced to lend his genius to the solution of the question and the Count rejoined that the Emperor might count upon his co-operation, for he was already engaged upon a work dealing with the question in point, which would soon see the light. Although the remainder of this long country ride abounded in interesting experiences I must touch upon only one or two incidents. Our mid- day meal, thirty versts farther on, was thoroughly enjoyed at the table of Madame Filosoffoff , a sister of the Bobrinskoys, who, with two lovely daugh- ters, had turned away from the comforts of a city home to minister to the poor in this distressed region. Visiting several more villages we came into one, 74 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW a half of whose houses had been destroyed by fire a few days before. Three men fell upon their knees before us in the road, begging for help to rebuild their homes. Next to famine and pesti- lence, fire is the most fearfully dreaded enemy of these people. In a dry time, when a blaze starts among their heavily thatched straw roofs many of the houses go up in fire and smoke together. Count Paul Bobrinskoy, my companion of many days, now about to part with me at the railway station, Kashinow, fell upon my neck and kissed me, just as we are told in the Book of Acts the companions of his namesake, the great Apostle, did, and like the Apostle's friend, I, too, "sorrowed most of all for the words which he spake, that I should see his face no more/ I carried with me a letter written by Count Paul to Vladimer Ivanovitch Peterson, the station- master at Riask, five hours' journey toward Mos- cow, written to him that I might be directed to the right train at that point, which was a junction of two lines of railway. I presented this letter on arrival, nine o'clock at night, to a servant of the company. With the aid of a bystander, an English gentleman, who observed my futile Mai and Sophie Peterson. Daughters of Mr. and Mrs. Vladimer Ivanovitch Peterson of Riask, Russia. WITH COUNT TOLSTOY 75 efforts to make the fellow understand that I wished him to give the letter to the station- master, I succeeded in my purpose. The station- master came to me, a fine-looking, tall gentleman, with a military bearing and a most kindly face. The letter evidently contained information con- cerning my mission in Russia, for never before was I the recipient of such a profusion of kind atten- tions even from friends, not to mention strangers. Calling servants, the station-master delivered to one my coat, to another my hand baggage, to a third an order for supper, and telling me in imperfect Eng- lish that I must wait for my train three hours or until midnight, he led me to the station restaurant — a first-class establishment, ordered a good supper, opened a bottle of 'Roderer, " and as we sat to- gether, took the liveliest interest in all I could tell him of what America was doing for Russia's starving peasants. Again and again touched by some allusion, he rose to his feet, extended his arm across the table and gave me a hearty hand- shake. The lunch over, he took me to his house, introduced me to his peasant cook in the kitchen, showed me over the house, proudly pointed to photographs of his wife, who at the time, with her 76 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW little daughters, was visiting her mother in Mos- cow. He ordered coffee made, set it before me with cakes, oranges, mint drops, and the best cigars I ever encountered in all Europe. He then began to load me with souvenirs giving me a silver Russian coin-holder, photographs of himself, his wife, and his two little daughters ; a quantity of lace and some fancy work made by his cook, and finally an immense bunch of lilies-of-the-valley, Russia's most lovely wild flower. Returning from his dwelling to the station, I was shown a large room in the station, the floor of which was literally covered with human beings, • — peasant men in their rough sheep-skin gar- ments,— asleep. They were a gang of labourers employed by the Government, awaiting transpor- tation by railroad. On the arrival of my train my friend provided for me a special sleeping apartment, furnished with bed, table, and chair, a striking contrast to our Pullman narrow-berth sleepers. He gave orders to have me well cared for, hugged and kissed me, and with a "God bless you'! and 'God bless America" the train moved off. By noon next day I was again in Russia's Holy City. IX Russia's Jewish People I HAVE been asked if I gained any information in Russia touching the alleged atrocious treatment of political prisoners in Siberia and the persecution of the Jews. Just enough, is my answer, to assure me that there has been exaggeration in some of the reports that have been given publicity as to both these serious matters, and no little misrepre- sentation either through ignorance, prejudice, or malice. The inspiration of such statements, may be attributed generally to political enemies of Russia. Everyone knows how easy it is to mis- understand a matter when but half of the facts and nothing of the underlying causes are revealed. Loyal and law-abiding subjects of the Czar have nothing to fear from the mighty arm of their ruler nor from the prisons of Siberia, for " Rulers are not a terror to good works but to the evil. ' I undertake no defence of Russia's penal code, though I might better succeed in that than in any 77 78 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW effort I might make to apologize for some of our own municipal and State politics and the conse- quent evils and abuses that are even now being endured by our sovereign citizens. The Jew in Russia is not to be understood as identical with the worthy examples of that race who have become good citizens among us. Our treatment of the Japanese in California and of the negroes in some of our Southern States would seem to suggest to us the justice of making full inquiries before passing judgment on the Russian people for their hostility to a certain class of Hebrews. Pierre Botkine, Secretary of the Russian Lega- tion in Washington, in an article in the Century Magazine entitled, "A Voice from Russia, " makes a noble defence of his country against the charge of religious intolerance and persecution on the part of the Orthodox Greek Church in the explusion of Jews. He says : They have not been expelled, as has been charged, but have been restricted as to localities of domicile and as to kinds of occupation ; they have abused their privileges as traders and as lenders of money to the poor until they have become dangerous and prejudi- cial to the people. The peasants, in their weakness RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 79 and ignorance, have in some localities lost all patience, have been guilty of violent excesses, have mobbed the Jews and destroyed their property. They have tried to annihilate particularly all property, which to their exasperated minds, was ill-gotten. And disclaiming all thought of excusing such barbarities, he says: — "They can only be regarded as a protest of the people against what they found to be a thraldom to the Jews worse than the serf- dom which had been abolished. ' I found the Jews trading in St. Petersburg, just as they do in Philadelphia, with no thought of molestation, and after inquiring of United States officials in that city, and of the best informed Russians I feel inclined to endorse the article in the Century. The London Correspondent of The Public Ledger writes on this subject, August I, 1916, as follows: Announcement in Petrograd by Paul Milsukoff, leader of the Constitutional Democrats in the Duma, that a bill giving Jews equal rights will be introduced in the Duma in November confirms reports current in Jewish circles here for some time. By Russian departmental order the residence of Jews outside the pale already is permitted, and re- cently there was a discussion of the Jewish question by 8o RUSSIA THEN AND NOW the Cabinet Council at imperial headquarters, at which it was understood that the project of introducing a bill in the Duma legalizing this departmental order was favourably considered. The circular issued by Count Ignatieff, Russian Minister of Education, abolishing the system of bal- lot for Jews desiring to enter Russian secondary schools was regarded as an excellent omen for the further enfranchisement of Jews. Alexis Aladin, one of the best-known members of the Duma and now in London, said today that not only was the present report true, but he considered it quite likely the bill for equal rights would be passed. "It is a step of immense importance and one that must arrest the attention of the whole world," said Aladin, "I am unable to reveal all I know, but I am able to say I am confident the bill will be introduced in the Duma and passed. ' There recently visited London two prominent members of the Russian Government. Vice-Presi- dent Propopoff, of the Duma, and M. Gourko. Both these men, your correspondent learned in intimate talks, looked with favour on speedy legislation giving the Jews equal advantages with all Russians. Their attitude is extremely significant of the change that has been taking place in the inner councils of Russian affairs since the beginning of the war. Here we have Propopoff, a nobleman and capitalist, swinging around to the idea that the time has arrived to put the Jew on an equal footing with his fellow-men in Russia. As Vice-President of the Duma, he is a RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 81 man of influence; in fact, one of the most promising statesmen Russia ever produced. In speaking with friends here he said that today one does not talk of the " necessity" of giving the Jew equal rights, but of the "desirability.' In other words, he maintained that the day had come when Russia was beginning to recognize the importance of the Jew as a vital part of her national life. The reason, he argued, was that the Jew shows himself of real value to Russia in commercial life and is a factor to be reckoned with in the future if Russia is to develop the best that is in her. With him stands Gourko, a forceful leader in the Council of Empire and an assistant minister. These leaders are unafraid to compromise their political success by putting the Jewish question on the basis of a complete settlement of equality of rights. That to my mind is a sure indication of the trend of the Jewish problem in Russia. A friend, who having been strongly impressed by such presentments against Russia as those of George Kennan, said to me, — "You know there is a Darkest Russia as well as a Darkest England, and the favouring circumstances under which you visited the country gave you little opportunity to see the dark side; hence you can paint your picture only in warm, glowing tints." Possibly he is not far astray, but I have aimed to present an unpre- 82 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW judiced, uncoloured view of things as I saw them. I believe that the nobles of Russia are endeavour- ing to maintain a kind, helpful paternal relation toward the peasant class, irrespective of their religious affiliations, and that in this respect they are the peers of their fellow-Christians in any land. They are struggling with the great civil and social problems of the day in an earnest spirit of broad Christian chanty. If their progress appears to some to be dreadfully slow in comparison with our own, we have but to remember the differ- ence in our forms of government and the dangers involved in sudden, radical political changes, even when those changes are in the line of great reforms. Let us remember the fate of Presi- dents Lincoln and Garfield and McKinley, and be still! We have reason for rejoicing in our constitutional deliverance from a condition that was in violation of the fundamental principles of our Declaration of Independence ; so has Russia for her emancipation of the serfs in 1861, and their deliverance from an hierarchy, which means its people's deliverance from a sectarian yoke and from ecclesiastical domination. o o *rt -u • F-) O w c 2 o RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 83 Rev. Floyd W. Tomkins, D.D., in a recent explanation of a Sunday-school lesson, said : Let it not be thought that we are justified in treating the Jews unkindly or critically because the Gospel was preached to the gentiles after the people of Judea rejected it. We can never earn God's love or approval by frowning upon those whom He loved and amongst whom He lived and died. We want to do all we can to make the Jews know that Christ was their Messiah, and those who ill-treat them and are cruel by word or action will not only lose the favour of God, but will incur His displeasure. Rabbi Joseph Krauskopf, D.D., has given me the privilege of quoting from his published addresses delivered at Temple Keneseth Israel of Philadelphia. • The story of his visit to Tolstoy, 1894, is especi- ally interesting. No one of our Jewish fraternity is to my mind more trustworthy than he in the elucidation of now existing relations between the Russian Jews and their Government. I quote as follows : While within the Russian borders, I was privileged to come in contact with many prominent Russians, one of them, M. Witte, who at that time was Minister 84 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW of Finance and practically at the head of the empire, the Czar, Alexander III., being critically ill in Crimea, where he shortly after died. But of all the men I met none made the impression that was left on me by my visit to Count Leo Tolstoy. It was made possible by Mr. Andrew D. White, the distinguished scholar and statesman, who at that time represented our country at St. Petersburg. He had written and asked the Count to meet me and to learn of the mission that brought me to Russia. The Count's daughter, Tatiana, replied that her father would be pleased to have me visit him, adding that he was just then engaged in hay-making, and, therefore, had not much leisure. To take as little of his time as possible I arranged to arrive in the courtyard of his manor- house at Yasnaya Polyana, late in the afternoon. Approaching a group of peasants that stood at a well drinking water and mopping their brows, my travelling companion, a young Russian lawyer, asked them where we might find the Count. One of them stepped out of the group, and, lifting his cap, said most court- eously that he was Tolstoy: learning my name, he bade me a hearty welcome. From the moment I first gazed upon him he held me captive, and, by a strange psychic power, he has held me enthralled ever since. No wish of mine has been more fondly cherished in the years that have since passed by than that of some day visiting Russia again, and only for the purpose of seeing once more that strangely facinating personality, of listening again to his marvellous flow of wisdom. RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 85 I had often wondered how a Moses, an Isaiah, a Jeremiah, a Socrates, looked and talked, denounced and dreamed : the moment I saw and heard Tolstoy I knew. One hour's talk with him seemed equal to a whole university course in political and social science ; one walk with him on his estate stored up in the listener more knowledge of moral philosophy than could be crowded into a year's seminary instruction. Great as was the power of his pen, immeasurably greater was the power of his living word. In some mysterious way the flow of his speech seemed to exercise a hypnotic spell upon the speaker as much as upon the listener. The speaker seemed at times translated into a super-human being, seemed inspired, seemed to speak words not his own, as one of the ancient prophets of Israel must have spoken when he said the words: "Thus saith the Lord, ': while the listener seemed scarcely capable of thought or speech, felt his being almost lose its identity and become merged with that of the speaker. The first question Count Tolstoy put to me was from what part of the United States I hailed. Upon my telling him that Philadelphia was my home, he expressed himself as much pleased. He recalled the two shiploads of food we sent from our port, two years earlier, for the relief of the famine-stricken of Russia, of the distribution of which he had personal charge, and he spoke with pleasure and appreciation of Mr. Francis B. Reeves, our fellow-townsman, who had accompanied the food-relief. With even keener delight he recalled that the first 86 RUSSIA THEN AND "NOW aid received from the United States was from the Jewish congregation of Sacramento, California, which to him was all the more remarkable from the fact that the district stricken was, through governmental re- striction, uninhabited by Jews. The expression of pleasure turned to one of sorrow when he remarked that Russia had little deserved such generous treat- ment at the hand of Jews — and he lived to see the manner in which it was repaid in Kishineff and other places. More than 300,000 Jews of Russian birth are fight- ing today in that country for their fatherland, and tens of thousands of them have laid down their lives in defence thereof. Hundreds of them are recipients of medals of honour for deeds of valour on the battle- fields, in many instances won while fighting against fellow-Jews of Austrian and German armies, thus holding ties of fatherland higher than those of blood or faith. From this loyalty of Jews to countries where they are still labouring more or less under disadvantages, even to such countries as Russia, where they are not yet in possession of citizenship rights at all, may easily be judged what their loyalty must be to a country such as ours, where, almost from the first, every right that was conferred upon followers of other faiths, was con- ferred upon them, the country which, for the first time since they were driven from their original Pales- tinian home, eighteen hundred years ago, they were privileged to call truly their own. The conversation turned to social conditions in the RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 87 United States, and on these matters he displayed an amount of knowledge that was amazing. The more I listened the more I wondered, till finally I could not but ask him how he who wrote and worked so much could find time to keep himself so well informed of a country so far away as the United States. To which he replied, "Your country has interested me even more than mine. I have lost hope in mine; all my hope was, at one time, centred in yours. But yours is a disappointment as much as mine. Were yours the free and representative government you pre- tend to have, you would not allow it to be controlled by the money powers and their hirelings, the bosses and machines, as you do. I have read Progress and Pov- erty by Henry George, and I know what Mr. Bryce says about you in his American Commonwealth, and I have read and heard even worse things about your misgovernment than what they say. "We were all right," he continued, "as long as we were an agricultural people. Our modes of life, then, were simple, and our ideals were high. Politics then was a religion with us and not a matter of barter and sale. We became prosperous; prosperity brought luxury, and luxury, as always, brings corruption. The thirst of gold is upon us, and, in our eagerness to quench it, and to gratify our lust of luxury, our one-time lofty principles and aspirations are dragged down and trampled in the mire. We build city upon city, and pride ourselves in making one greater than the other, and, in the meantime, we wipe out village after village, whence have come our strength and moral fibre." 88 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW He was not the first of the world's great reformers and lovers of humanity to lose heart and to experience spells of despair. Moses and Elijah and Jesus and others had their hours of agony, and prayed that the end might come, and deliver them from their hopeless labours. And many who, like Tolstoy, closed their eyes in the belief that they had utterly failed loomed large in subsequent ages among the greatest of the world's benefactors. Tolstoy has not failed. He succeeded better than he knew. His pathetic death revealed the vast num- ber of followers he had in his own country and in all parts of the world. And had he cared to inquire, he might have known it before his death. He could have seen it from the fact that more books of his were sold than of all other Russian authors combined. He could have seen it in the vast crowds that gathered all along the line, to catch a glimpse of him, when on his journey, a few years ago, to the Crimea, in search of health. He could have seen it in the deputations of sympathizers that waited upon him, and in the streams of congratulatory letters and telegrams that rushed in upon him — till suppressed — after his excommunica- tion. He could have seen it in the Tolstoyan societies among the students of almost all the Russian univer- sities and among other bodies. He could have seen it among the considerable number of landlords, who made conscientious efforts at following his life, and at adopting his mode of dealing with peasants and la- bourers. Were the yoke of autocracy removed, there would arise in Russia an army of Tolstoyans as vast RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 89 and mighty as the host which Ezekiel in his vision saw in the valley of dry bones. The religion of Russia of the future will be largely that which Tolstoy lived and taught, and it will be the religion of a large part of the rest of the world. Time's sifting process will eliminate whatever is untenable in his system of moral and social and economic philosophy, which sprang more from a flaming heart than from a cool, calculating mind. He had neither the time nor the inclination to work out a synthetic philosophy. He wrote as the spirit moved him. and whenever it moved him, the keynote of all his writing having been, as he said to me, "the hasten- ing of the day when men will dwell together in the bonds of love, and sin and suffering will be no more." There are in the Tolstoyan system of religion the elements of the long dreamed-of universal creed. It will take time for the rooting of it. Mormonism and Dowieism spring up, like Jonah's gourd, and pass away as speedily as they came. A system as rational and radical as that of Tolstoy requires an age for germina- tion. But, once it takes root, it takes root for ever; once it blossoms, it blossoms for eternity. • •••••• The incident which I am about to relate occurred in Russia, on a July evening, 1894. In the course of the evening meal, which I was privileged to share with Count Tolstoy and his family, a peasant entered with the mail and presented it to the Count. With considerable eagerness he freed a newspaper from its wrapper, and, turning its pages, stopped at one of 90 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW them, and presently gave vent to a number of chuckles. To an inquiry by one of his family as to what amused him, he held up the paper, which certainly presented a strange appearance. Large black ink blotches in several places in each column disfigured its printed matter, and made it look more like a black and white checkerboard than a printed page. Turning to me, he said that the blackening of his articles, or parts of them, was nothing new to him. What amused him was that the unsmeared parts were far more radical than those which the censor's ink roller had made illegible, proving to him conclusively that publications of his were being blackened without even being read, on the theory that anything he wrote must of necessity be dangerous, and bear the censor's mark of disapproval. "I believe, " continued he, "that if I were to publish a copy of the Ten Commandments under my name, half of them would be blotted out as dangerous reading. The fools do not seem to know that by blotting out parts, they whet the reader's desire for perusing all, and incite him to obtain un- tampered copies clandestinely. ' He then told me that that particular article was one of a series he was publishing, under the title of " Chris- tianity and Patriotism " in a London newspaper, in the Daily Standard I believe, not having been permitted to publish them in the Russian tongue in his own country. In them he showed that Christianity and patriotism are incompatible, that the latter is an artificial creation, skilfully fostered by rulers for their own benefit. On account of it wars are waged, and no end RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 91 of other evils are wrought, and sufferings are inflicted by Christians against Christians, who, religiously, are taught to love each other, to do good to one another, and who patriotically are taught to despise or hate or overreach each other. He regarded patriot- ism as both stupid and immoral, stupid because every country regarded itself superior to all others, and immoral, because it lures nations to possess themselves of advantages at the cost of the others, thus violating the fundamental law of morality, that of not doing unto others that which we do not want others to do unto us. When rulers or diplomats have certain ends in view, some land greed to gratify, they excite enthusiastic patriotism at home by inciting hatred against the country to be victimized, and deluded citizens murder and cripple each other by the thou- sands, paralyze their respective country's commerce and industry, bring untold sufferings upon countless innocents, in the belief that they are serving their own best interests, when they are only gratifying diplomats' ambitions, or rulers' covetousness, or assuring the permanence of parasitical dynasties. Patriotism, therefore, is the strongest ally of rulers in the promotion of war, and in the prevention of the earth-wide establishment of the brotherhood of man. I must confess that I was somewhat taken aback by his severe strictures on patriotism, which I had, up till then, regarded as one of the noblest sentiments of the human heart, and I, therefore, ventured, later in the evening, when seated with him in the arbour, 92 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW to ask for some further light on this new, and to me startling, teaching. Complying with my wish, he related how, a few years back, a well-known French agitator visited him, while on his mission to Russia to prepare the ground for a Franco-Russian alliance. This visitor frequently referred, with sentimental pride, to the sacred pledge he had given himself and his country never to cease agitating for war with Germany until France redeemed her lost military glory. He pleaded for the Count's espousal of the proposed alliance, claiming that, as a patriotic Russian, he must recognize the wisdom of crushing or weakening so powerful a neighbour as Germany. His pleading met with no success. Tol- stoy showed him the absurdity of his arguments. Germany defeated France at Sedan, he said, because France had defeated Germany at Jena; and if France were to defeat Germany now, it would only mean that Germany would have to defeat France sometime in the future. To his argument that France was duty-bound to liberate the people of Alsace and Lorraine, and to restore them to where they belonged, Tolstoy answered that these two provinces had belonged to Germany seven hundred years, and that that country had only reconquered what was her own. As far as the people are concerned they are no less free and happy under German government than they were under French. Barring a few hot-heads, they would rather be left at peace than see their lands again made the scenes of horrible war. Tolstoy then asked the Frenchman whether he considered himself RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 93 a Christian. Upon receiving an emphatic "yes" for answer, he asked him how he could reconcile Christ's teaching of love and forgiveness with his own thirst for revenge ? He replied that patriotism is as necessary as Christianity, and both must be cherished alike, even if, at times, they are diametrically opposed to each other. Striking an attitude, he added, 'In church, I am a Christian, in politics I am a French patriot !': Together they proceeded into the fields, where they came across a peasant. Tolstoy stopped him, and, calling him by name, told him that his guest wanted him and all the Russians to help France to fight Germany. " Fight for what?" asked the peasant. "To get two provinces back,'1 answered Tolstoy, l< which France lost a quarter of a century ago. ' The peasant stared at the stranger, and finally, turning to Tolstoy, asked, ' Is he a fool or does he think we are fools, " and away he went. "Who was the wiser of the two,' Tolstoy asked me," the simple-minded, simply clothed, labour- bronzed, unlettered Moujik, or the well-fed, well- groomed, white-skinned politician, with a silk hat, long coat of latest cut, and patent-leather shoes? That peasant's answer was the voice of the people; the politician's was the serpent's voice. As the peas- ant spoke, so think the people in their hearts, until the serpent's tongue beguiles them into doing what they would never think of doing were they following the bidding of their conscience. 'If patriotism is as innate as is generally claimed,'1 continued Tolstoy, " why do nations go to such trouble 94 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW in inculcating it ? Let them stop compelling people to swear allegiance to every new monarch, let them cease saying prayers for him, celebrating his birth- days, placing his pictures in public halls, and his monument in public squares, printing his name in capital letters in prayer-books, calendars, and text- books, imprisoning people for speaking ill of him, dazzling the people's eyes and befogging their minds by means of pomp and show and glitter, crowns and sceptres, gaudy uniforms, military bands, medals and ranks, fireworks and triumphal arches — let them cease doing such things and they will soon discover how much patriotism is inborn, how much of it is of spontaneous growth, and how much of it is forced upon the people. 'Patriotism, therefore, as commonly understood," concluded Tolstoy, "is for rulers a means for gratifying their lust of land or power, and for the people a renun- ciation of their God-given intellect, a surrender of fundamental teachings of their religion. Conceived in that sense, patriotism is but a form of slavery, and the patriot often but his monarch's executioner. End this blind patriotism, and you end war at the same time, for people will then be no longer willing to sacrifice themselves for the aggrandizement of their ruler, or of his diplomats or of his military chiefs. Remove this blind patriotism, and the profession of the diplomat will be gone. There will then be no quarrel between nations which arbitration courts will not adjudicate. Remove this blind patriotism, and nations will establish their cause by the law of Poor Peasants. RUSSIA'S JEWISH PEOPLE 95 right instead of by the force of might. Remove blind patriotism, and you will enthrone religion among the nations. Let people cease to be false patriots, and they will become true Christians." X Russia's Religion THE spirit of true religious liberty is working like good leaven within their institutions as they now exist. The Kingdom of God is within them. Toleration of all religions which do not violate public morality or good order exists in Russia, and not to profess the Orthodox Greek faith, the national religion, does not disqualify for the en- joyment of any civil rights. James B. Reynolds recently wrote in the Chris- tian Union of New York as follows : Last year in Russia I met a number of people prominent in the Russian Church, and heard much of the spirit of their leaders. There certainly has been a decided awakening in recent years. Of Father Antonio, now at the head of the great theological seminary near Moscow, I was told how he often gathered his students together and gave them informal talks on personal piety, such as theological students rarely receive and greatly need. In talking with the wife of the military governor of the district of Moscow, 96 RUSSIA'S RELIGION 97 I was much impressed with the genuine respect which she showed for the Russian clergy, especially as her own ideas of personal religion revealed a depth of spiritual life commanding the highest admiration. In a long chat with the Countess Tolstoy about many features of their national life, I gained the impression that she also felt that there was at least a strong and growing element in the Russian clergy which sought to command respect by broad and thorough scholarship and practical love and sympathy for their fellow-men. In conversation with a young tutor of the Moscow theological seminary, I certainly gained the impres- sion of one well posted on his subject, which was the philosophy of religion. Doubtless many may feel that the Holy Synod is severely repressive within the Orthodox Church as well as without, on all "tendencies of modern thought"; but just now certainly they cannot be conceded to have a monopoly in that line of business. The Russian Church shows the deficiencies of a State Establishment whose theory is to include all men within the pale of the Church, and then make Chris- tians of them afterwards. This naturally leads to unworthy clerical as well as lay members. But there has been progress. I believe a majority of the leaders of that division of the Christian Church are conse- crated men trying to do their best with the mighty responsibilities of their position, and I agree with Mr. Gribayedoff in saying of the Russian Greek Church: "It has a great mission to perform, and, on the whole, is doing its work nobly.' 7 98 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW The peasants as a rule are religious, in the best sense of that word, for they are always willing to divide their loaf of bread with the pilgrim and stranger. They are devoted to their faith and to the performance of their vows whether as members of the Orthodox Greek Church, as in the case of the great majority, or of the numerous Protestant sects existing and thriving under the protection of the Government. They recognize God's sover- eignty, but have never learned the great under- lying principle of all religions that have been of great help to humanity in every age, — that the Almighty Ruler works in the affairs of men through human agencies, of whom He only requires that they shall be co-workers with Him, seeking to know His laws and then conforming their own laws and lives thereto. They are very suspicious, therefore, of every effort to change the existing order of their lives. Often they resist measures to stay the progress of disease and to arrest the approach of death lest thereby they be contending against the will of God. If a child falls into a river or brook they make no effort to save its life, believing that God has ordained that it should die in that way. This conviction not only robs them of every incen- RUSSIA'S RELIGION 99 tive to use their own free wills and intellectual faculties to advance themselves and their children in the scale of civilization, but it carries them into the outer darkness of a blind fatalism. They firmly believe that their Emperor is the vicegerent of Almighty God. They are generally loyal, therefore, to the 'powers that be'1 while they are meekly submissive to their desperate lot. Conspiracies against the Government are rarely fo- mented among them, but in so far as they are ever discovered, they are traced to the official classes or the military, or to men of the universities. But whilst holding their Emperor in highest reverence, the peasants are wont to regard the under officials and in some measure the clergy with feelings akin to contempt. Their ability to discriminate, how- ever, between their real friends among those dignitaries and those whom they regard as mere incumbrances, is quite remarkable. Men on their knees on the street curbstones pray- ing before an Icon are examples of their church loyalty. On entering the door of a post- office everyone is obliged to remove his hat and bow before the Icon; and even when en- tering a bank, business office, or shop, the hat loo RUSSIA THEN AND NOW must come off, particularly if there are ladies in the building. Among many appreciative letters that I have received are the following from Counts Paul and Vladimir Bobrinskoy : BOGORODITSK, TULA GOVT., 3 August, 1892. MR. FRANCIS B. REEVES. DEAR SIR: It was with the greatest pleasure I read your letter and would have answered long before but I had much work attending the harvest in the farms. I was so glad to know you had a happy journey and carried away a good impression of our country. I am sorry to tell you that since you left us a very strong dysentery broke out even among the grown-up people; the babies were carried off in great numbers, as the food this year was far from being suitable to withstand this disease. As regards the crops it is most lamentable; the rye and the wheat in some localities and in ours also were dried up from want of rain and next December we expect the distress to be greater than that of last year. And to complete the scourge we have already some cases of cholera in our district. It was distressing for me to read in today's paper that in one of the districts south of the river Don, 900 took the cholera and 500 of them died of it. We are very busy in pre- paring hospitals and different preventative means to RUSSIA THEN AND NOW 101 battle with that fearful disease. It was so sad that the Red Cross and the Zems too had to spend the money that would have gone towards relieving the hungry for the cholera preparations. I am very sorry to give you so many bad accounts of our poor country, but we feel also that your sympathy and interest will be a great encouragement for us. This year I shall not be able to accomplish my great desire of visiting your beautiful country, as it is my time of military service. Thank you for your kind remembrance of us all and believe me, dear sir, Yours gratefully, PAUL A. BOBRINSKOY. BOGORODITSK, GOV. OF TULA, RUSSIA, 12 March, 1893. MY DEAR MR. REEVES: I am very sorry that I could not find time until now to write and thank you on my own behalf and on behalf of my uncle, R. Pizarefl, for your kind help in our work this second year of famine. The Petersburg American Relief Committee, with the Hon. A. D. White at its head, has sent me 3200 roubles, R. Pizareff 3600 roubles and my cousin Andrei Bobrinskoy, 3200 roubles, in all 10,000. I trust you will transmit to the Mayor of Phila- delphia and to the Philadelphia Committee our very sincere thanks for this most timely help. Through you I have also received 70 roubles 50 copeks (37 dollars 37 cents) from a Sunday School 102 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW class. Pray tell the children that their truly Christian Charity will go to help the sick with hunger typhus, who are very numerous this terrible year. Allow me to express once more my most hearty thanks and believe me Your most obedient and thankful servant, VLADIMIR BOBRINSKOY. Mr. W. Barnes Steveni, special correspondent of the London £>aily Chronicle, who had made a tour through famine-stricken Russia early in 1892, wrote as follows of his visit at the home of the Bobrinskoys: On one of their estates they had established a priute or Children's Home. This the Count took me to in the afternoon. I found there dozens of children, whose appearance bore eloquent testimony to the kind treatment they had received. Some of the parents, the Count told me, had died from cold, hunger, or disease; the others were totally unable to provide for their offspring. / In the management of this home the Countess Bobrinskoy — an exceedingly pretty and refined lady — found plenty of congenial and womanly occupation. In spite of the atmosphere of the place being anything but fresh, she, personally, saw that the wants of the little ones were properly attended to. 'We are care- ful," she said, "not to admit the little starvelings to J-l o RUSSIA THEN AND NOW 103 the home without first washing them thoroughly with carbolic and water. We feed them on milk, bread, and various farinaceous foods, and find that they flourish so well on this diet that it will be necessary for us, before we send them back to their parents, gradually to accustom them to the harder fare which will be their lot. A sudden change of diet would be sure to produce disastrous results. ' I am glad to say that the Bobrinskoys practice what they preach. They are all staunch teetotalers. I was not, therefore, surprised to find that they were held in high esteem by the peasantry. To find this good feeling existing between a Russian noble and his former serfs gave me the greatest pleasure, especially as my preconceived notion of the Russian aristocracy was that that body was an idle, worthless set. My experiences during my journey have convinced me that this view was erroneous. The present crisis, I am glad to say, has proved that there exist in Russia many nobles of whom any country might be proud. That so little change should have taken place in the relations between the Bobrinskoys and the peasantry since Alexander II. issued his edict of emancipation is greatly to the credit of this family. It was with much regret that I left the hospitable roof of the Bobrin- skoys. I shall never forget the unceasing kindness which they showed to the distressed around them, and to me, not only a complete stranger to them, but a foreigner as well. Such noble-minded people fully deserve the high position which they hold amongst the principal families of this country. 104 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW CZAR ALEXANDER III. SENDS BEAUTIFUL GIFTS TO THE PHILADELPHIA RUSSIAN FAMINE RELIEF COMMISSIONERS The 2Oth of May, 1893, I received the following telegram from Prince Cantacuzen, Russian Am- bassador to the United States: WASHINGTON, D. C. MR. FRANCIS 3. REEVES, 20 S. Front. I would be very pleased to see you on the 27th of May, 1 1 o'clock, on board Russian Flagship, Dimitry Donskoi, in Philadelphia, to tender to you in presence of our brilliant sailors and on Russian soil a souvenir his Majesty, the Emperor, ordered me to give in his name to the American gentlemen who visited Russia during the trying year 1892, with hearts and hands full of loving help. Will you kindly pass same invita- tion to Mr. Biddle and Mr. Blankenburg, as I don't know their addresses. CANTACUZEN. The day named, May 27, 1893, was the tenth anniversary of the coronation of the Czar, Alexan- der III. The flagship, Dimitry Donskoi, was accom- SHIPS WITH GIFTS 105 panied by another Russian warship, the Rynda, both of them anchoring in the Delaware River, dressed in holiday attire with flags from stem to stern. Cannon roared the Imperial salute, and Philadelphians were treated to the unusual spec- tacle of warships of a foreign nation celebrating one of its most important holidays. Prince Cantacuzen presented to the Relief Com- missioners the following letter, all of them being present excepting Mr. Blankenburg, who at that time was in Japan: RUSSIAN IMPERIAL LEGATION, WASHINGTON, May 27, 1893. DEAR SIR: Before leaving my country for the United States I had the great satisfaction to receive a special order of His Majesty, the Emperor, my most gracious Sover- eign, to present tokens of His Majesty's gratitude to the American citizens, who, moved by philanthropic and friendly feelings towards the suffering population of our country, came over to Russia last year and attended personally the distribution of the aid, for which they contributed largely with the generous American people. I avail myself of the presence of our men-of-war in Philadelphia, from which harbour sailed the first ship with flour for Russia/to tender to you, dear Sir, on the day of the Coronation of Their Majesties, this case io6 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW containing a piece of Russian art, as a remembrance of the feelings you left behind you. Very sincerely yours, CANTACUZEN. MR. F. B. REEVES. Bishop Nicolas, of San Francisco, the prelate of the Russian Church in America, conducted the service, which was one of the highest of the church. He was assisted by Fathers Andronik and Irakli, the priests of the Donskoi and Rynda. The portable altar which the flagship carried, with pictures of saints and other paraphernalia, was set up on the starboard side of the gun deck. The crew of the vessel, with Admiral Kaznakoff, Captain Zelenoy, the Grand Duke Alexander, and other officers at their head, were ranged on the deck before the altar. Detachments of the officers and crew of the Rynda occupied the port side of the deck. Bishop Nicolas wore vestments of purple, with the peculiar Russian hat with its black veil. The best singers of the vessels formed a choir, and a large part of the service consisted of the intonation of the liturgy. The service lasted over an hour and closed with the Bishop's blessing and prayer for the royal family of Russia. Heavily Gold- Plated Punch Set. On top of the case is a brass plate on which is engraved MR. F. B. REEVES IN REMEMBRANCE OF YOUR VISIT TO RUSSIA 1892 SHIPS WITH GIFTS 107 Then, at a word from the Admiral, a round of cheers for the President and the people of the United States was given, and the band played Hail Columbia, while all remained uncovered. The gifts to the Commissioners were as follows : For Rudolph Blankenburg, a bowl and salver, gilt and enamel, the tone of the latter ornamenta- tion being blue. To F. B. Reeves, a punch bowl about seven inches in diameter, five drinking cups, a large platter and a ladle. All were of silver, heavily gilded and beautifully figured. To Colonel A. J. Drexel, Jr., a Russian "loving cup" of gilded silver, with lid and handle, about a foot in height. To Dr. Biddle, a silver-gilt enamelled cup. Each present rested in a satin-lined box of polished oak, which bore on the outside a plate having the name of the recipient and the sentence : 'In remembrance of your journey to Russia, 1892." Gifts from the Czar were presented also to the following named gentlemen who had rendered valued services in the relief work of America for Russia: C. M. Reeves, S. Klopsch, Dr. Hubbell, io8 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW W. C. Edgar, E. S. Phelps, and Rev. Dr. T. De- Witt Talmage. This majestic event of international courtesy did not terminate with the presentation of these gifts. A luncheon was given from one o'clock to three o'clock P. M., by Admiral Kaznazoff to the repre- sentatives of the Russian Government at Wash- ington ; his American guests (among them all who had received gifts), and a few of his officers. The day's festivities were followed by a brilliant illumination of the Russian ships with coloured electric lights, which an admiring crowd viewed from the shore. From the stern of the Donskoi there was a continual display of fireworks. On the flagship a large initial "A, ' the first letter of the Czar's name, was topped by a crown of coloured lights. After the luncheon a party of ladies, chaperoned by Mrs. A. J. Drexel, Jr., was taken aboard the flagship. One of her officers said that over a thousand people had been on board and that the visitors greatly outnumbered those received when the ship was in New York. " It is no annoyance," he added, "we came here to see you and for you SHIPS WITH GIFTS 109 to see us, and another Russian warship may not visit the United States for years. Your gracious help for Russia proves that your city is rightly named Philadelphia — 'Brotherly Love. f" XI The Abolition of VodKa AT the time of my visit nothing was said about the peasants' addiction to strong drink and the resulting drunkenness and desperation. Vodka had not apparently been given its proper place in their tale of woe. Its recent abolition by Czar Nicholas, universally approved by all his official representatives and Russia's best people, has proven that vodka should then have been cursed as one of the real underlying causes of destitution when a year of drouth was followed by crop failure. No greater blessing has ever been conferred upon Russia than that heavenward march of the Czar abolishing vodka from his realm. Its prohibition, adopted as a war measure, is likely to continue after the war, according to reports from Petrograd. Before the war, vodka was almost universally used by the Russian masses. Many women, and even children of tender years, no THE ABOLITION OF VODKA in consumed the fiery liquor, while men used it in quantities almost unbelievable. The peasants are now more prosperous than ever before the war, and this is attributed to the saving of the large sums formerly spent for vodka. Madame La Marquise, now faithfully serving the Red Cross Mission, in an article recently pub- lished by the Philadelphia Evening Bulletin, said: One of the transformations that have been work- ing to make Russia an interesting study for other peoples deserves universal cognizance. When the Czar's ukase forbidding future use of the Muscovite whisky vodka, was put in force la marquise attended in state to see the execution of the preliminary step to the "water wagon. ' At a given hour all the casks of vodka stored in Suwalki were taken to a neighboring hill, where a formal ceremonial inaugurated the end of the demon. The enormous casks were "stove in,': the liquor coursed down the hillside in torrents; the regretful topers, as a last tribute, flung themselves prone on the ground and swigged till they were insensible. When they could take no more, they rolled in the stream on the ground. Obviously the Czar realized what he was doing when he ventured to cut off by a stroke of the pen the cup that doesn't cheer but bestializes, as the sequel proves, for the Russian economists are cheering the empire with the incredible word that the ii2 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW savings bank deposits have gone up a billion rubles since the water-wagon replaced the bottle. Nor is the money gain all ; the peasantry left at home, through age or infirmity, have redoubled in working power. Russia, the land the Teutons disparage, proves to be the only nation in existence capable of decreeing and maintaining a reform which other nations don't venture to tackle boldly. John H. Snodgrass, Consul General at Moscow, said that according to statistics gathered by a reputable newspaper, the consumption of vodka during the months of July, August, September, and October, 1914, was only a little more than one- tenth what it was during the same months of 1913 — before the Czar's ukase against intoxicants ; and adds: It is observed in the manufacturing concerns that labour has become much more productive than before. Formerly at the Moscow mills many workmen would not appear on Monday, and a number of those who did were unfit for duty in consequence of their Sunday excesses. This is no longer the case ; both the quality and quantity of labour performed have improved. d W CO o -i-> o 4-3 in O o c (-( *-* _rt CO o O O o S XII What They Saw in Russia After VodKa Left1 By Margaret Wintringer WHILE in London a letter of introduction secured for me an interview with Baron De Hey kind, the Russian Consul General. I found the baron a somewhat stern but courtly man of distinguished military appearance. I told him how the Czar's ukase had been welcomed in the United States, and a look of pride, and even exaltation, softened the naturally stern countenance. 'It is the greatest and grandest national edict since Moses gave a moral code to the Jewish people,' he declared proudly. :'Not since the world began has any people taken such an advanced step. Our Emperor has taken the place in the twentieth century that your Lincoln held in the nineteenth century. Only it is greater to free men from themselves than from bondage to others. No one, except the Saviour of men, ever essayed that before.' He spoke with simple reverence. 'It is a miracle,' he continued, "the strength of the army and the growth of the nation since indul- 1 By permission of The Continent. 8 ii4 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW gence in alcohol has ceased. Our soldiers face the foe more bravely; wounds are no longer feared, they heal so quickly — and those long winter marches, they have been made without vodka. ' It was hard to realize that I was talking to an officer of the imperial army and a member of the Russian aristocracy, when the consul general enthusiastically referred to the democratic application of the Czar's ukase to prince and peasant, staff officer and common soldier alike. It was all so different from the spirit of military caste and privilege that has grown up in our own republican army. The grog ration of the soldiers gave way to a money allowance in 1912, and early in 1914 a new order provided for monthly and even weekly temperance lectures in the army. The Russian government, which is ecclesiastical as well as political, has always esteemed the sale of intoxicants iniquitous and has never recognized the trade's right to compensation. When as a measure of protection to her people, Russia took over the vodka traffic in 1894, she did not reimburse the liquor sellers; and the present local option laws provide for the refund of a proportionate amount of the license when prohibition takes effect previous to the expira- tion of the license of any retail dealer. I had just read an article on Russian prohibition in an American magazine, and I ventured to refer to the charge that denatured alcohol and other even more poisonous substitutes had taken the place of vodka, to the grave danger of the Russian people. RUSSIA AFTER VODKA LEFT 115 The statement was vehemently denied. ' If it were so, I would know it," he said, "for I am in daily receipt of government reports and they all' say that never was Russia so sober. You manufacture much in America, ' ' said the consul general, "and this [referring to the magazine article] was manufactured in your country. It is one of the lies of the trade. It is natural to lie when the truth will hurt; Madame need not believe that I know nothing of such evasions. ' "But since I came here I have been told that many people have died in Russia from drinking methylated spirits," I urged. The answer came with startling emphasis. "Let them die! It is better for Russia that they should die. They are a disgrace to their country and a burden to their wives and children. We cannot kill them. Let them kill themselves. Why weep over the death of a few old drunkards when, under our most gracious Emperor's beneficent ukase, Russia is saving millions of youth from a degraded life and an ignoble death? When these drunkards go, there will be no boys to follow them. Russia is facing the future. She will conserve her youth.' To my blundering inquiry as to whether he was following the Cz'ar's example, the consul general replied frigidly and with hurt pride: "Madame, I am a devoted and loyal subject of Russia's most noble ruler." The woman's viewpoint on this interesting subject was gained one bright April day in Paris, when Ma- demoiselle D'Aubigne, daughter of the author of ii6 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW the History of the Reformation, suggested a call upon Madame Louise Kruppi, who had just returned from a tour of Russia. Madame Kruppi is one of the noted women of France. Through the establishment of trade schools, she has enabled soldiers' wives and widows to become self-supporting. Already classes have been formed in fourteen trades and professions. Her visit to Russia was partly a government mission to gain information from the technical schools for which Russia is famous, which would advance her own undertaking. Like Professor Simpson, she prefaced the interview with the confession that she went to Russia neither a prohibitionist nor teetotaler. "And now," she piquantly explained, "I am both. I am everything that will bring to my country the blessings I found in Russia. At first it was hard to give up wine, but if, in a city of two millions, one can- not get it, one must do without; and it was so in Petrograd. Moscow was as bad, I mean as good," was the smiling correction, "for one could not get it there." "Oh, " she replied to my suggestion, "they have temperance drinks, but they are frightful!" The statement was accompanied with a charming moue and with an expressive shrug of the shoulders. And then madame suddenly became grave. " It is strange, is it not," she mused, " that in France we not only drink but think wine. Nothing is good that is not wine. But that is a mistake, as I learned in Russia. The temperance drinks were nice, very RUSSIA AFTER VODKA LEFT 117 nice — if you did not taste them, " she added mischiev- ously. 'I could drink anything and like it that would bring to French women the happiness I saw among the Russian women. ' They seemed to have become young again. Per- haps, ' Madame Kruppi said laughingly, "it was because since there is no vodka, marriage is so much cheaper. When vodka was furnished the guests it cost from 60 to 100 francs; now the wedding feast may cost but 30 francs. So now, the young couples can marry. " And then family life has become beautiful, for the Russian is not unkind to his wife and children when he is without vodka. Since alcohol, the twin sister of lust, has disappeared, the shackles have fallen from many poor white slaves; and while war has in- creased prostitution in all other ."countries, in Rus- sia the evil has diminished nearly one half. Women should remember that and enter the fight, for with one blow they strike the two worst foes of womanhood. "And then prohibition will give the vote to women," Madame Kruppi added. "Already the Council of the Empire has actually adopted a bill that would have given women the right to vote in local option matters. And to make prohibition secure, the vote will surely come to woman. ' The people are saving money. They are turning the empty vodka shops into savings banks. They are spending money, too, for new clothes for them- selves and new gowns for the women. Yes, and they 1 18 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW are buying meat twice a week instead of twice a month.' Madame Kruppi, who is actively interested in the establishment of free libraries in her own country, was greatly impressed by the intellectual awakening that has followed the Czar's ukase. "The craving for drink has been replaced by a thirst for knowledge. The people are reading books and playing on musical instruments. France, Italy, Britain, and Germany,'1 she declared, "have given their art and literature to the world; but Russia has yet to give and some day she will lead the world. Because she has cleaned herself and shown herself strong, hers will be a clean art, and a virile literature, while the happiness of her people will banish the sombreness which has characterized both in the past." XIII Russia's Great Revolution — THe True Story of tKe World's Most Gigantic Temperance Experiment x By Margaret Wintringer A great army drunk and a small army sober, and the dramatic defeat of that great army, was one of the big factors in Russia's fight for temperance. America should study Russia's experience because in the more than twenty years of that fight the great Empire tried " every restriction which the frantic friends of a doomed traffic are clamorously urging in our own country" before the great culmination in the Czar's famous ukase. No experiment tried out in the temperance labora- tory of Europe during the present war has excited such a world-wide interest as that which has wrought the regeneration of Russia. So marvellous and yet so simple, it made a strong psychological appeal to the strain of mysticism inherent in the Russian peasant. It was like a fairy tale, in which the ukase of the Czar was the enchanted wand which transformed by its magic power that ragged, sodden peasantry into an awakened princess 1 With permission of the Sunday School Times. 119 120 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW robed in a noble ideal to become his consort iu the preservation of Russia. The romance of it, the dis- covery of themselves, awakened in the Russian people a great patriotism and a depth of religious feeling never before manifested by any nation. The story is so athrill with romance, inspiration, and dramatic action, that it only awaits a master mind in Russia for interpretation into a great Homeric epic. But to us the story of the temperance movement in Russia is of significant interest, because it is the most gigantic experiment ever undertaken in tem- perance reform, affecting as it has nearly two hun- dred million people and extending over eight million square miles of territory. The work began twenty years ago, and never before was reform inaugurated under more propitious and satisfactory conditions. Removed from fanaticism by its conservatism, assured against failure by auto- cratic power of enforcement, financed by an Imperial treasury, and clothed with respectability by the Church, Russia's scheme for temperance reform be- gan most auspiciously. It was not even hampered by the necessity of returns on the investment, for the government took over the vodka traffic without any form of compensation to the sellers. Never were such gala days as when Russia opened her state vodka shops in 1894. Grand-duchesses par- ticipated in the inaugural ceremony, and bishops blessed the drink. Princes and princesses and other titled folk acted as bartenders in serving bottles of RUSSIA'S TEMPERANCE EXPERIMENT 121 liquor that bore the seal of the state and whose purity was attested by the government. In fact, every restriction which the frantic friends of a doomed traffic are clamorously urging in our own country was tried out in Russia during the nationalization of the traffic. The rules governing its management read like the recommendations of a Model License League. Vodka was sold for off-the-premise consumption only in corked and sealed bottles, and not a cork- screw or drinking vessel was permitted in a vodka shop. Its sale was prohibited to children and drunken persons. Wage-earners were protected through the early closing on pay-day of all vodka shops near factories. They were closed also on certain religious holidays and all days when the village Council met. The traffic was made so respectable that school- teachers withdrew from the profession of learning to become managers of vodka shops. The government lent its prestige, and patrons were required to remove their caps on entering, as in other Imperial offices. The government even provided counter attractions to its own liquor business. There were restaurants where beer and light wines were served only with food orders, and tea parlours, concert halls, and other places of resort where the people might meet for social intercourse apart from intoxicants. A portion of the profits from the sale of vodka was devoted to an educational temperance campaign; and during the year that saw the opening of the state vodka shops, seventy thousand seven hundred tern- 122 RUSSIA THEN AND NOW perance lectures were delivered under government auspices to audiences totalling seven and one half million people. To safeguard the movement from fanaticism, the government prohibited the formation of societies advocating prohibition and set aside further profits from the new venture to the support of a national temperance society which adhered strictly to moder- ation. Two uncles of the Czar joined the movement and the moral uplift of the saloon began under ideal conditions. One may wash a black cat, but one cannot make it white. So the plunge into respectability failed to remove a whit of the blackness of the liquor traffic. Within two years the would-be reformers learned that restriction is a foe to profit. The number of vodka shops was increased, the restrictions were withdrawn, and thereafter the business was run for revenue only. During nineteen years of nationaliza- tion the revenue from the sale of vodka doubled, but the consumption increased threefold. Restriction illogically forced vodka shops upon villages that had heretofore been immune from its ravages; and the inculcation of moderation resulted in such inebriety among children as to demand investigation by the Moscow City Council. In a word, Russia's effort for the moral uplift of its people through the government control of drink brought about the degradation of the nation until its drunken- ness resulted in ignominious defeat by a people whom it outnumbered ten to one. rt f-H o rt .