THE LIBRARY OF SANTA BARBARA COLLEGE OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY MR. AND MRS. R.W. VAUGHAN RUWENZORI THE TRANSLATION FEOM THE ITALIAN HAS BEEN MADE BY CAROLINE DE FILIPPL nk' FITZGERALD. THE ILLUSTRATIONS ARE FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY VITTORIO SELLA, MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION. < < < ^ N H a: < o >■ ^ < O LU n: D en RUWENZORI AN ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION OF H.R.H. PRINCE LUIGI AMEDEO OF SAVOY DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI FILIPPO DE FILIPPE F.R.G.S. With a Prekace ev H.R.H. THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI NEW YORK E. P. BUTTON AND COMPANY 29 West 23RD Street 190S Ill the spelling of the native names the usage established by the Eoyal Geographical Society has been followed. The royalties on the sale of this book will be given to a Fimd for the Relief of Italian Emigrants. C5^ -r- o . UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ^T S^TA BARBARA COLLEGE LIBRARY 2) c b i c a t c t) BV PEBMISSIOX TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN DOWAGER OF ITALY MAEaHERITA DI SAVOIA. P R E F A C E. This book contains a detailed account of the expedition which I led from April to September of 1906, to explore the snow range of Ruwen- zori, upon tlie borders of Congo and Uganda, in the centre of Equatorial Africa. The book includes the data of observations, and all the facts upon which the geographical and scientific results of the expedition are based. These results I have ali'eady given in outline in my lectures before the Italian Geographical Society and the Royal Geographical Society, which were subsequently published in the " Bollettino " and " The Geographical Journal." I had not at my disposal the time requisite for writing myself a full account of this joiu'ney. My companions were, for various reasons, equally luiable to undertake the task. Cav. Filippo De Filippi had already published an accurate and painstaking account of a previous exploration, in which he had been one of my companions. It, therefore, occurred to me to request him to write the story of the Ruwenzori Expedition from oiu" notes and jouinals. Preface. The task was difficult, even with the help of Cav. UfF. Vittorio Sella's splendid photographs, which, in a measure, filled out the bare outlines of our diaries. I, therefore, take this opportunity of expressing my deep sense of obligation to Cav. Filippo De Filippi, and of recording the pleasure given me by his acceptance of my proposal. To this volume, which contains a narrative of the journey and of the actual exploration work of the expedition, together with the meteorological and astronomical notes, will be added a second volume,* containing the geological and mineralogical report of Dr. A. Roccati, together with reports upon the zoological and botanical specimens brought back by us. I must here tender my thanks to all the distinguished men of science who have collaborated in the study and illustration of our collections. c^ Rome, April, 1908. * Published in Italian only — U. Hoepli, Milan, viii CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER I. The Discovery and previous Explorations of RmvENZORi. . 1 CHAPTER II. Preparation and Departure of the Expedition from Italy. From Naples to Entebbe 2.5 CHAPTER III. Erom Entebbe to Fort Portal 57 CHAPTER lY. From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — Mobuku Valley . . .100 CHAPTER V. Peaks at the Head of Mobuku Valley 138 CHAPTER VI. Peaks of the Central Group •. 165 CHAPTER VII. FORSLiTION AND GENERAL FEATURES OF THE RlTVENZORI RANGE . 193 CHAPTER VIII. Exploration of ISIt. Speke and Mt. Emin 231 CHAPTER IX. Further Ascents on Mts. Stanley, Luigi di Savoia and Baker. Work at Bujongolo 2-1-1 CHAPTER X. Exploration of the Bujuku Valley and of Mt. Gessi. Return OF THE Expedition 260 IX Contents. APPENDIX A. PAGE The Mountains of the Moon of Ptolemy's Geography and the KuwENZORi Range 287 APPENDIX B. Astronomic, Geodetic and Meteorological Observations . 303 I. — Report on Astronomic Observations .... 307 II. — Geodetic Observations 353 III. — Report on Meteorological and Altimetric Observa- tions 361 APPENDIX G. Contains a Summary of the Geological, Petrographic, and Mineralogical Observations which were made by II.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi's Ruwenzori Expedition, together WITH A List of the New Zoological and Botanical Genera AND Species collected in the Ruwenzori Regions . . . 381 Summary of the Geological Observations made in Uganda and in the Ruwenzori Range during the Expedition of H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi . 382 I.— Uganda 382 II. — Ruwenzori Ran(;e 388 Alphabetic List of the Minerals collected in the Ruwenzori Range 394 Zoology, New Genera, Species and Sub-species collected by the Expedition of H.R.II. the Duke of the Abruzzi . . 394 Summary of the Plants collected by the Expedition of the Duke of the Abruzzi on the Ruwenzori Range . . . 397 Magnetic Observations 403 Ind^x 40& ILLUSTRATIONS. Tusks Confiscated bj- the Government, Uganda Native Hut in Uganda. Caravan on the March . Native Porters, Uganda Porters' Hut, Uganda . A Camp .... Native Chief with his Family, Uganda. A Chief's Daughters of Bahima Stock . Native Market in Uganda . Incense Tree (?) • Mombasa — Port Kilindini Mombasa — Portuguese Fort . The Uganda Railway .... Sugar-Cane Vendors .... At a Railway Station .... Port Florence ..... The Winifred alongside the Pier in Port Florence Natives going to Market, Kisumu A Shed in the Market Place, Kisumu Kavirondo Women ..... Kisumu Market ...... Kisumu Market ...... 'Within the Enclosure of the ^Market, Kisumu Banana Sellers, Kisumu .... 08' Rusinga Island ..... Native Canoe with the Prow of Peace Among the Sesse Islands .... Napoleon Bay, Lake Victoria Shores of Lake Victoria, near Kampala Botanical Gardens, Entebbe .... Governor's House, Entebbe .... xi PAGir .3 5 7 9 12 14 16 18 22 23 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 39 41 42 43 45 46 48 49 51 Illustrations. Market, Entebbe ...... Market, Entebbe In the Coiirt3'ard of the Equatorial Hotel, Entebbe Native Huts and Plantains .... General View of Entebbe .... Shed in the Market, Entebbe Native Huts, Entebbe The Kampala Eoad, Entebbe Hanging Nests on the Leaves of a Palm A Road in Uganda Native Hut . A Hilly Bit of Road . Across the Marshes Papyri and Water Lilies Elephant Grass The Native Path . In the Tropical Forest Between Swamp and Forest Plantain Groves . Baganda Women . Baganda ... Baganda Women . Pawpaw Tree Porters' Huts Building a Hut Visit of a Chief with his Court, bringing Presents Dancing in the Porter's Camp Wrestling Match among the Porters . Native Band ...... Between Entebbe and Fort Portal Camp at Bujongo ..... Camp at Katende ...... Ruwenzori seen from Butiti .... Near Butiti, with Ruwenzori in the background Forest between Butiti and Fort Portal The Caravan on the March .... PAGE 52 53 54 55 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 75 76 77 78 79 80 82 83 84 85 87 88 89 91 92 95 98 xn Illustrations. om the Hinia Valley seen from the Low On the Puljlic Square, Fort Portal Native Hut Market, Fort Portal . Hills near Fort Portal . Fort Portal King Kasagama and his Court Near Fort Portal .... Women at Camp Duwona . Acacias on the Road between Duwona and Kasongo Between Duwona and Kasongo Ford of Wimi River The Snow Peaks of Ruwenzori, seen fr Mt. Speke (the Duwoni of Johnston) Valley . Ford of Mobuku River Ford of Mobuku River Ibanda .... The Portal Peaks on the way up to Bihunga Building Sheds, Ibanda Hillside, below Bihunga Bihunga Forest above Bihunga . Forest at the Mouth of the Mahoma Tree-Ferns Kichuchu Lobelias in the Heath Forest The Heath Forest Waterfall at Buamba . Bujongolo The Kiyanja of Johnston from Bujongolo Upper Gorge of the Mobuku Valley . Eastern Peaks of Mt. Baker, seen from Edward Peak Mt. Stanley and j\lt. Baker, taken from the Stairs Peak of Mt. di Savoia The Highest Peaks and Lake Bujuku, seen from Grauer's Rock Mt. Baker (the Kiyanja of Johnston) seen from the West er Mobuku Luis PAGE 101 103 103 104 105 107 loa 110 111 112 114 11.5 116 117 118 120- 121 122 123 125 126 127 128 130 131 133 135 139 141 143 147 149 151 1.53 Illustrations. Bujongolo .......... Heath Forest below Bujongolo Mt. Cagni seen from Bujongolo Mt. Stanley seen from Freshfield's Col .... Lake to the West of Mt. Baker — Charred Senecios The Upper Lake in the Valley to the West of Mt. Baker . Head of the Valley to the West of Mt. Baker . Camp IV — Close to the Elena Glacier ..... Alexandra and Margherita Peaks from the Stanley Plateau Climbing the South-east Ridge of Alexandra Peak Climbing Alexandra Peak Elena and Savoia Peaks as seen from the Stanley Glacier . Elena and Savoia Peaks from the Ridge above Camp IV . Camp near Scott Elliot's Pass Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the South Ridge of Edward Peak Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the South Ridge of Edward Peak Mt. Stanley from the Edward Peak of Mt. Baker North-west Shoulder of JMargherita Peak Mt. Stanley from the West, from a photograph taken in the Butagu Valley by Dr. F. Stuhlmann Western Side of Alexandra Peak Moebius Peak from the West The Foot of the Glaciers flowing West of Alexandra and Moebius Peaks .......... Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the Upper Butagu Valley . Savoia Peak taken from Alexandra Peak ; Mt. Luigi di Savoia in the Background ......... The Chain of Ruwenzori seen from Butiti after a Tele-photograph by V. Sella Senecio and Helichrysum in the Upper Butagu Valley Lobelia Deckeni, Senecio and Tree-Heaths .... Lobelia in Flower Senecio and Lobelia Stuhlmanni . . . » . Camp IV — Close to the Elena Glacier Mt. Speke seen from the Senecio Forest at the root of Scott Elliot's Col Mt. Speke from the Stanley Plateau PAGE 156 157 161 167 169 173 176 177 179 180 181 183 187 188 190 191 200 201 206 207 208 209 210 211 213 222 224 226 228 232 235 238 Illustrations. Mt. Emiii seen from the lolanda Glacier Climbing the Alexandra Peak Moebitis Peak from the South-east Ridge of the Savoia, Elena and Moebius Peaks, and Mt. Liiigi the South-east Ridge of the Alexandra Peak Fresh Snow on Freshfield's Pass . Mt. Stanley from Freshfield's Col Mt. Luigi di Savoia from Freshfield's Col . The South Ridge of Edward Peak and the Camp close field's Pass ...... Porters in Camp at Ibanda .... The Bujuku Valley ..... Camp IX, Bujuku Valley .... Mt. Gessi from the Edward Peak of Mt. Baker The Bujuku Torrent ..... Giant Tree in the Lower Bujuku Valley Ibanda ........ Baganda Village ...... Crater Lake Kaitabaroga, near Fort Portal . Back again on the Shores of Lake Victoria Ripon Falls ....... Head of the Victoria Nile .... Alexandra Peak di Savoia seen from to Fresh- PAGE 241 245 246 248 249 250 251 252 262 265 267 269 271 273 274 275 276 277 283 285 LIST OF PLATES. Sunset on Victoria Nyanza. Coloured Plate, from the painting by A. Fitzgerald Banana Plantation and Hut near Fort Portal. The Tropical Forest From Entebbe to Fort Portal. (Section) Wooded Valley between Entebbe and Fort Portal View between Entebbe and Fort Portal. Panorama Papyrus Swamp between Entebbe and Fort Portal View of Ruwenzori from a hill near Kaibo . Tropical Forest near Fort Portal .... Nakitawa ........ Frontispiece. To face page 65 69 71 81 85 87 93 97 121 List of Plates. The Heath Forest The .Mobukii Kiver in the Heath Forest Flowers on the Terrace of IJuamba Bakoiijo Porters Panorama taken from Grauer's Rock, Mt. Baker . Ujjper end of the Molniku Valley .... Panorama taken from Stairs Peak, Ut. Luigi di Savoia Bujongolo .....•■• Valley to the West of Mt. Baker .... Valley to the West of Mt. Baker .... The Highest Peaks Alexandra Peak from the South, showing the South-East Ridge Margherita Peak from Alexandra Peak . Mt. Stanley In the Seneeio Forest ...... Senecio Forest to the West of Freshfield's Col. Mt. Speke from Edward Peak, Mt. Baker Mt. Luigi di Savoia taken from King Edward's Peak, Mt. Baker .... Mt. Cagni Lake Bujuku and Mt. Stanley Panorama taken from lolanda Peak, Mt, Bujuku Valley .... Gessi PAGE To face page 125 )) 129 »> 133 5> 141 1) 143 yj 147 »» 153 j» 159 )) 167 )) 171 )) 177 )) 181 )) 185 K 201 )» 229 ff 235 )> 239 n 247 J> 257 5> 265 J> 269 )J 273 MAPS. The Valley System of the Ruwenzori Range . Map of Angles measured in the Ruwenzori Chain . Route of the Expedition from Mombasa to Ruwenzori The Peaks, Passes and Glaciers of Ruwenzori Geological Map of the Central Group of Ruwenzori To face page 203 355 End of Vol. CHAPTER I. ^< The Discovery and previous Explorations of Ruwenzori. i Stanley's first sight of the Snow-peaks — Ruwenzori and the " Mountains of the Moon " of Ptolemy — Discussions and Dissensions between Geographers — Exploration of Stairs, Stuhlmann and Scott Elliot — Moore discovers the Glaciers at the head of the Mobuku Valley — Repeated attempts to climb the Mountains from the Mobuku Valley — ^Ascent made by David upon the western slope — British Museum Expedition — First peaks ascended — What was known about Ruwenzori in the beginning of 1906. On the 24th of May, 1888, Henry Stanley, in the midst of his longest and most venturesome African journey, vrhile crossing the narrow strip of coast which forms the south-west bank of La ke Albert Nyanza, between Nsabe and Badzwa, beheld for the first time the snowy peaks of Ruwenzori : " When about five miles from Nsabe camp, while looking to the south-east and meditating upon the events of the last month, my eyes were attracted by a boy to a mountain, said to be covered with salt, and I saw a peculiar-shaped cloud of a most beautiful silver colour which assumed the proportions and appearance of a 1 B Chapter I. vast mountain covered ^\'ith snow. Following Its form downward, I became struck with the deep blue-black colour of its base, and wondered if it portended another tornado ; then, as the sight descended to the gap between the eastern and western plateaux, I became for the first time conscious that what I gazed upon was not the image or semblance of a vast mountain, but the solid substance of a real one, with its sununit covered witli snow." "Ruwenzori" is the one among many native names by which, in Stanley's opinion, the mountain is most widely known in the surrounding region. Of all tlie explorers who in the preceding twenty years had travelled through these regions and sailed upon the waters of the lakes at the foot of the chain, not one liad suspected the near presence of vast tracts of eternal ice and snow hidden from all eyes in the impenetrable cloak of cknid and mist. In 1864, Sir Samuel Baker had given the name of "Blue Mountains " to the \ast shapes faintly seen looming through the mists of tlie plain to the south of the Albert Nyanza. He did not, however, form anv adec[uate conception of their real proportions. Stanlev himself, in the Deceml)er of 1875, when actually encamped upon the eastern slopes of the chain, relates, but without comment, the descriptions given by the natives of the shining white coloiu- and intense cold of peaks which he could not see but which were said to be towering above him. Sir Harry Johnston mentions certain private letters written in 1876 bv Romolo Gessi during his first complete exploration of the shores of the Albert Nyanza. In these letters mention is made of a strange vision which the writer saw in the sky, as if of mountains covered with snow. Possibly he ascribed this vision to an hallucination. The fact remains that the discovery 2 The Discovery of liuwenzori. of E.uwenzoi'1 was reserved neither for liiiii, noi- for Emin Pasha, or Mason, Ijoth of whom subsequently visited tlie lake. TUSKS CONFISCATED BY THE GOVERNMENT, UGANDA. Stanley is probablv right in attiihuting' the extraordinary lack of atmospheric ti-ansparency, which renders these moun- tains invisiljle even in fair weather, to vapours exhaled from the surrounding plains and exposed to the heat of the tropical sun. Occasionally a hreeze sweeps away these vapours. At such times, as if by magic, the snow-clad ranges loom into sight only to vanish again and leave the onlooker in doubt and uncertainty as to the actual reality of the magnificent vision vouchsafed to him. The discovery of this vast system of snow mountains sheddine; tlieir watei's into lakes, wlience one of the greatest Nile ])ranches takes its origin, finally brought to an end that quest after the sources of tlie classic river whicli had played so large a part in the liistory of geographical investigation. 3 B 2 Chapter I. After a lapse oi' tweuty-tbiir centuries tlie verse of Aeschylus — " Egypt nurtured l)v the snow " — once more receives its literal signification. The " ^fountain of Silver" [apyvpow opos), the source of the Nile, according to Aristotle, is at last revealed. Stranire indeed are the vicissitudes of hmuan knowledg-e. This classical traditicni of the Nile issuing from vast lakes fed by snowy mountains was tenaciously preserved through subsequent history. We find it repeated in the description of the " Mountains of the Moon " taken by Ptolemy, with modifications of his own, from the writings of Maiinus of Tyre. The same story recurs in the writings and maps of Arab geogi'aphers in the Middle Ages ; and again in the works of Western European compilators, such as the Prior of Neuville les Dames and Alphonse de Saintorge. In fact, notwith- standing the absolute lack of any confirmation of their existence, these mountains and lakes, indicated with imcertain forms and doubtfid and varying geographical situation, never wholly disappeared from our maps of Africa up to the time ot their actual discovery. The belief in snow-clad mountains at the sources of the Nile had persisted with peculiar tenacity among the natives of the East Coast. Possibly it received fresh confirmation from time to time through news gathered from the caravans which brought ivory and slaves from the interior. Burton, Speke and Baker heard it again and again, and with positive affirmation, both from the Arabs and from the natives of Zanzibar. The discovery of Mt. Kenya and Mt. Kilimandjaro by the German missionaries Krapf and Rebmann in 1848-49 seemed for the time to settle the question. These mountains, how- ever, are connected neither with the lakes nor with the Nile. In 18G1 Speke believed that he had discovered the " Momitains 4 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. of the Moon" in the volcanic chain wliich stretches between Lake Kivu and Lake Albert Edward, more especialh' in the highest of the volcanic peaks, Mt. Nfumbiro ; hnt NATIVE HUT IN UGANDA. none of these inonntains are covered with snow. Stanley had certainly far stronger grounds for liis opinion that the "Mountains of tlie Moon" of Ptolemy are to lie identified with Ruwenzori, which alone answers in all essential points to the descriptions of the ancient geograpliers. It consists of a vast mountain ranjre covered with everlastiny,' ice and snow and shedding its waters into the basin of the Upper Nile from all its slopes. Rising, as it does, out of the midst of a tropical 5 Chapter I. landscape, it forms a spectacle at once so imposing and so un- expected as to strike the imagination of those who behold it more forcibly than any other featiire of the whole region, and so impresses itself upon their memory as not to he effaced by any subsequent vicissitude or experience of their journey. The opinion of Stanley, however, met with numerous opponents, including a nmnber of competent geographers. The German explorer, Dr. O. Baumann, discovered the sources of the Kagera, the greatest tributary of the Victoria Nvanza, in the mountains of Mlssossi ya Mwesi, in Urimdi, a district situated to the north-east of Lake Tanganika. These he considered to be the mountains mentioned by Ptolemy : Misso.ssi va Mwesi does, as a matter of fact, mean literally " Mountains of the Moon." The surrounding country is called Charo cha Mwesi, which means " Land of the Moon." At the same time the Kagera, \\hich had been called by Stanley the AIexandi"a Nile, may certainly be comited as the southernmost and one of the principal sources of the Eastern Nile. In England the theory of Dr. Baumann, in its general outline, has been accepted by Sir Clements Markham. Neither, indeed, has failed to recognize the objection tliat the small importance and low altitude of the Missossi ya Mwesi scarcely justify so far-reaching a celebrity. The natives of the Unyamwesi are certainly unconscious of the existence of the " Mountains of the Moon " in their country. Years ago, in fact, Speke heard from them a tale of a marvellous mountain situated to the north of Kasagwe, a region to the west of the Victoria Nyanza. This mountain was said to be so high anrl so steep that no one could ever possibly ascend it, and to be rarely visible because it soared up into the clouds from which a pure white substance was wont to fall upon it. The Discovery of Ruwenzori. Other geographers, such as Hans Meyer and Kavensteiu, attempted to prove that Ptolemy meant to indicate the mountains which form and encircle tlie Abyssinian tableland. In the " Proceedings of the Pi,oval Geographical Society" for 11)01 (p. 513), may be found an interesting discussion which followed the lecture of H. Schlichter on this subject. The Italian geographer Prof L. Hugues has contributed a note* on tliis question. He has attempted to bring the limited knowledge which was attainable in the days of Ptolemy as to the geographical position of both the lakes and the mountains into harmonv with the more precise information at our command at the present day, by taking into account errors in the mensuration of longitude and latitude inevitable at the earlier period. The conclusions at which he arrives are entirely in favour of Stanley's view. CAK.W'AN ox THE MARCH. * See Appendix A. 7 Chapter I. Stuhlmanii, Scott Elliot, Moore, Johnston and, in fact, all the others who have visited and explored the range of Ruwenzori after Stanley, have accepted his interpretation of Ptolemv's text. Indeed, unless we admit that the ancient geographers nuist have had in one way or another some concealed source of information as to tlie facts, we find our- selves under the necessitv of reoardin^ tliem as gifted with prophetic jjowers. Be that as it niay, the legend of the "Mountains of the Moon" is a tale of tlie past, and Ruwenzori, established at last in its own exact place on the map, known in all the details of its structure, measured in every dimension, no longer runs the risk of being lost from the memoi'v of man. We will now return to the story of its exploration. On the 1st of June, 1888, after his first sight of the snow-clad summits of Ruwenzori, Henry Stanley was forced to return on his track, and, re-crossing the vast forest of the Congo, to join his rear-guard camp, where one of the ghastliest tragedies recorded in the historv of African ex})loration had taken jilace in his absence. He did not return to Ruwenzori mitil tlie next year, 1889, when he skirted the whole Avestern slope of the range. He then traversed the plain ])etween Lake Albert Edward and the mountains, and, turning northwards, followed their eastern slopes as far as the head of Lake Ruisamba. He thus spent more than three months, from April to Julv, in the innnediate neighbourhood of the range, and saw the snowy peaks again and again. Wishino- to o-ather more accurate knowledge of the shape and structure of these mountains, he dis])atc]ied Lieutenant W. G. Stairs on a joiuney of exjaloration among them. Lieutenant Stairs left the camp of Bakokoro, 3,860 feet above The Discovery of Ruwenzoii. the sea-level, aljout the beginning of June. He followed one of the north-western vallevs of the chain for two days, steering for two rockv peaks of a striking conical shape (Twin Cones) wliieh had been marked from a distance on tlie north-west extremity of the range. He readied an altitude of 10,677 feet, about 1,500 feet below the rocky peaks. Here he came in sight of a snowv peak which he estimated at 10,600 feet, but which was not the highest point. Lieutenant Stairs had not an equipment sutticient to enable him to remain several days in the mountains. He was therefore obliged to cut his exploration short and descend to the plain. From the appearance and shape of these mountains lie thought it possible to maintain their origin to be volcanic. XATIVF 1'I)I:TF.T;S, ITiAXnA. Chapter I. Ill the mouth of December, 1899, Stiuiley at last finished liis venturesome journey and readied Zanzibar with Emin Pasha and his followers. A few months later, Emin Pasha, at the head of a German expedition, set forth again to return to the etjuatorial lakes. About the beginning of June, 1891, he found himself once more on the western slope of Kuwenzori, encamped at Karevia, near the southern course of the Semliki (Issango) i-iver. It was from this encampment, 4,364 feet of altitude, that Dr. F. Stuhlmann, one of the members of the expedition, made a five days' excui'sion up the valley of Butagu, one of the largest of the western valleys of the chain. He reached an altitude of 13,32G feet, not very far from the snow, in sight of two snowy mountains. He was obliged to return, owing to liis limited means of transport and to the sufferings of the natives from cold. A good naturalist, a first-rate explorer and a painstaking observer, Stuhlmann was the first to give an accurate description of the successive zones of vegetation in its varying forms at different altitudes. He proved clearly that Ruwenzori is not a single mountain, but a real range. He distinguished four principal groups to which he gave, proceeding from north to south, the names Kraepelin, Moebius (the highest peak called Kanjangungwe by the natives). Semper (Ngem\vinil)i of tlie natives), and Weismann. He was able to photograph two of these groups from the upper Butagu Valley. He also showed that Stairs' suggestion of a volcanic origin for the range is without foundation. Strange as it may seem, he failed to recognize the presence of true glaciers, but was rather inclined to regard them as mere accumulations of snow. Stuhlmann was succeeded in the exploration of Ruwenzori by the naturalist G. F. Scott Elliot in the years 1894-95. He 10 The Discovery of Iiinvenzori. made five expeditions bv various routes towards the summits, through the Yeria, Wimi, Mobuku, and Xyamwamba Valleys on the eastern slope, and through the Butagu Valley on tlie western slope. He pushed liis way up to the lieads of the Yeria and Wimi Valleys, and reached his greatest altitude (13,000 feet) in the Butao-u Vallev. Stricken with malarial fever, lacking means of transport, Scott Elliot gave proof of admirable tenacity, but was unaltle to gather any data regarding the region of the snows. His most interesting observations are with regard to traces of ancient o-lacier action in tlie valleys of Mobuku, Nvamwamba, and Butagu, which prove tliat tliey were at one period filled by vast glaciers. Like Stuhlmann, he excludes all possibilitv of a volcanic origin for these mountains. The most important results of Scott Elliot's exploration are botanical. After Scott Elliot we have no finther record of Ruwenznri for five years, although the period of exploration had been succeeded in Uganda by the period of European occupation. The whole time and tlie entire energies of the English military and civil services were required to deal \\ith serious difficulties, and with the necessity of facing dangerous complications which seemed at times to menace the very existence of the newly established Protectorate. It was necessary to depose kings, and to i)ut down revolts with such means, slender and insufficient at best, as were available from a coast several months' journey distant. Thus we reach 1900 without any furtlier addition to o\u' knowledo-e of the rano-e. In the spring of this vear C S. Moore, at the head of a scientific expedition for the purpose of studying the fauna of the great lakes, reached the eastern slopes of Ruwenzori with the intention of attempting the ascent. 11 Chapter T. He had }HU]K>se(l to go up V)y tlie Nyannvaiuba Valley, which, however, he failed to reach owing to the impossibility of fording the River Mohukii, at tliat time swollen by heavy rains and ([uite impassable. PORTERS HIT, UGANDA. As early as 1894 Captain (now General Sir Frederick) Lugard had pointed ont to Scott Elliot tlie Mobuku Valley as the best route l)v which to reach the snow. C S. Moore now started up by this route, taking with him a small number of Suahili porters besides a few natives of the valley. In spite of imfavourable weather, he was able to ascend the valley as far as its head, and discovered for the tirst time the glaciers which encii'cle its upper end. He went up one of these and reached the edge of the terminal ridge, 14,900 feet above sea-level. C. S. Moore thus gave us the first irrefutable proof of the existence of genuine glaciers upon Ruwenzori. He further- 12 The Discovery of Ruweiizori. more confirmed Stiililniauu's clescrlption of the range, recognizing from the east side the same distribntion of the peaks Into four principal groups. Some tiiree weeks kiter, Fergussou, who had left England with Moore but had been delayed by fever at Fort Gerry (now Fort Portal), proceeded up the Mobuku Valley and ascended the a:lacler to the heio-ht of 14,600 feet. Shortlv after Fergusson, Bagge, who was employed in the Civil Service of the Toro district and had already made an excursion u|) the valley of the Nyamwamba as far as the bamboo zone, pushed up the Mol)nku Valley and reached the glacier. Bagge had a rough path cut by the natives up the valley, wliich proved a useful guide to subsequent explorers. Sir Harry Johnston, High Commissioner of the Protectorate, accompanied by Me.ssrs. Doggett and Vale, followed this track in September of the same year. His choice of this route was determined partly by the relative facility with which explorers since Moore seemed to liave reached the glaciers, and partly by his conviction tliat tlie principal groups of the range were in the immediate neighbnurliood of tlie head of the Mobuku Valley. Sir Harry Johnston's expedition reached the glacier and ascended to a height of 14,828 feet, but was luiable to reach the ridge. Johnston rebaptized the peaks under the names given them by the natives of those valleys, which were, of course, totally different from the names reported by Stuhlmann from the west of the chain. Thus, the Ngemwindji, or Semper of Stuhlmann, became Kiyanja, while another peak visible from the Molniku Valley received the name of Duwoni. Johnston succeeded in taking good photographs of the valley, of the Mobuku Glacier and of some peaks. He gave us also a detailed description of 13 Chapter I. till' Hora anil fauna of tlir nioimtaiu district. Like Scott Elliot, he noted traces of glacial action in the Mobuku Valley, about 3,000 feet below the point where is now the snout of the glacier. Like all his predecessors, he complains of an extra- ordinary persistence of l)a(l weather. A C.VMP. Thus in the year 1900 alone the Molniku Valley had been explored by four separate parties. Li August of the following year, W. H. Wylde and Ward went up the valley and appear to have reached the ridge on the top of the glacier at the same altitude which was reached by Moore, about 15,000 feet. During the two following years we have no further reports of the Mobxiku Valley until the expedition of the Rev. A. B. Fisher, who, with liis wife, in January, 1903, arrived at the point wliich had been reached by Sir Harry Johnston. 14 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. The geographical periodical "Globus," published, in 1904, a brief notice of an ascent on the chain of Ruwenzori made in April of that year by Dr. J. J. David. He was reported to have reached an altitude of about 16,400 feet. Two years later the "BoUettino" of the Italian Geographical Society published an article by Revelli on Dr. David's expedition based upon liis own notes. David had chosen the route of the Butagu Valley to the west of the chain which had not Ijeen explored since Scott Elliot. Ascending a tributary valley he reached the glaciers in seven days. Through the glaciers he reached a col, covered with ice, upon which was a small rocky peak of gneiss about 150 feet high. From here he was able to see the valleys descending on the opposite slope towards Uganda. He was stopped here by the evident danger of proceeding alone upon the glacier. The altitude of the pass which he had reached {16,400 feet) seems to have been ascertained bv triangulation. The absolute Lick of more precise data and of any detailed account of the loute which lie followed prevents us from identifying the peak which he ascended. Probably David might have been able to point out his route upon one of the photographs taken by Stuhlmann in the liigher Butagu Valley, and reproduced in his book.* In the course of the same year. 1904, M. T. Dawe made an important botanical expedition up the Mobuku Vallev. This exjiedition was, however, without results from the point of view of the momitaineer. During the time wliich had now elapsed since the occupation, a railway line had Ijeen opened lietween Mombasa, on the coast * There is the possibility that Da-sad may have reached the saddle between the Elena and Savoia Peaks of Mt. Stanley (about 15,750 feet), where a rocky tooth would seem to correspond to his description. 15 Chapter I. of the Indian Ocean, and Port Florence, on the eastern l)ank of tlie Victoria Nvanza. Port Florence was in its turn connected with Entebbe, the ca])ital of Uganda, by a regular service of steamers. It had tlius become possible to reach the centre of the Ah'ican continent without ditKcidty, at small expense, and with an immense saving of time. The country was henceforward in a state of peace and secm'ity. NATIVE CHIEF MITH HIS FAMILY, VCANDA. After the expedition of David, no explorer availed himself of these favoura])le conditions until the end of the year 1905, when interest in Iluwenzori seemed suddenly to reawaken. Thus it happened that at the very moment when H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi was forming his plan for an expedition in this reeion, and in the beoinnlntr of lOOG, when he had actually 16 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. taken sucli measures for carrying it into eftect, as collecting' material and preparing details of equipment, tlie range was already being attacked by determined mountain climl^ers ))ent upon rending the veil of nivsterv whicli liad so long shrouded its secret. In Novemljer, I'JOo, for tlie first time in the history of Kuwenzori, a party of expert mountaineers, Douglas W. Freshfield and A. L. Mumm with the guide Moritz Inderbinnen of Zermatt, arrived in tlie Mobuku Valley. They found the season especially unfavom-ai)le. After waiting for a long time at the upper end of the valley they were forced, l)y iminter- ru])ted rains, to abandon the undertaking. Thev had succeeded in making one attempt, in the course of whicli Mumm had ascended the glacier, but without reaching the ridge. In January, 1906, the Rev. A. B. Fisher, with his courageous wife, went up the Mobuku Glacier for the second time. In the same year an Austrian mountaineer, R. Grauer, with two English missionaries, H. E. Maddo.x and the Rev. H. W. Tegart, who during tlie preceding year had attained to an altitude of 14,000 feet on the Mobuku Glacier, climbed the high terminal ridge of the \allpv which had not been readied since 1!)()1. Thev ascended to the summit of a small rockv |)eak whicli rises on a depression m tlie I'idge to a height of 15,000 feet above tlie sea. This peak Grauer named after King Edward. Finally, in ( )ctobtn-, U)()5, a scientific expedition, sent out by the British Museum to study the fauna and flora ot Ruwenzori, started from London under the direction of H. B. Woosnam. The other members of this expedition were G. Legge, R. E. Dent, M. Carruthers and A. F. R. Wollaston, a member of tlie Aljiine (Jlub. This expedition spent several weeks in the Mohiiku Valley to collect scientific material, and 17 c Chapter I. in the interval made expeilitioiis up tlie <;-laciers at tlie head of the valley. First Woosnain alone, tlien a ])artv consisting of Wollaston, Woosnani and Dent reached, in Febinarv, of 1906, the spur of rock (Ml the lidoe where Grauer, Maddox and Teiiart had ffone in Jannarv. A few days later Wollaston and Woosnani attempted to scale the peak Axhich rises above the western slopes of the valley (the Kiyanja of Johnston), hnt owing to the dense fog they were stopped on a knoh of the ridge at an altitude of 1G,125 feet, a little l)el()W the actual peak. A chief's daughters of bahima stock;. 18 The Disco\ery of Ruweuzori. ( )ii the Ist of April, AVuUastDii. Wonsiiam and C'aniitliers, still ])iir.sued by bad weather, ascended the rocks beside the Mobuku Glacier and reached a rockv i)eak 15,898 feet high, which rises to the north-east of the valley, and which they believed to be the Dnwnni of .Ii>hnst()n. Two days later, the same party repeated the ascent of the rocky knol) on the ridge of Kivanja, and the reading of the boiling-])oint thermometer gave them this time a somewliat higher altitude (16,379 feet). The Jjersistent bad weather which ]iam})ered them on all these expeditions barely allo\\'pd them to perceive tliat other peaks of the chain rose np towards the north-Avest, and that they seemed higher than those which tliev had themselves ascended. Before the departure of the Italian expedition, onlv vague and inaccurate reports of these ascents had come from Uganda. Nor had any precise and direct intelligence been received from the mendjers of the British Museum Expedition. To ensure a clear imderstanding of the facts. I have made out a tal)le of all the explorations of Iluwenzori. whicli preceded the expedition of H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi. In this table I have given the altitudes as reported by each writer. They are to be taken as approximate only, becaiise none of them are drawn from a series of observations caixied out \\ith the precautions and tiie corrections necessary to an exact result. It is possible that, in addition to the expeditions which I have recoriled, others mriv have been made by English residents in the protectorate. (.)f any such 1 am ignorant, as no account of them has been published. 19 c 2 Chapter T. EXI'LORATIONS OF THE RuWEXZORI EaNGE FROM ITS DiSCOVEIlY, 1888, rp TO Ai'KiL, 1906. Date. June, 1889 1891 „ 1895 Mar., April, May, Sept., 1900 Explorers. Koitte followed. Point readied. Height, feet. W. G. Stnir.s 1 ; Russirnhi (?) Valley — 10,677 F. Stnliliii.'iini Butagu \'. — l.S,.32G G. F. Scott Elliot Yeria V. _ _ Wimi V. — — Mobuku V. — Nyamwaiiiha V. — — Butagu V. — 13,000 Stephen Baggc ... Nyamwanilia V. Bamboo Zone ... — C. S. Moore MohnkiiV. ... Terminal crest... U,900 Fergusson S. Bagge ... Sir H. Johnston, W. G. Goggett, and Wallis^ale 1901 W. H. Wvlrte, and Ward Aug., Jan., Ai)iil, 1 904 I J. J. David 1 90:? Kev. A. B. Fisher, and Mrs. Fisher Mobnku (ilacier 14,600 14,828 W. T. Dawe l'.)0.j H. P:. Maddo.x-.and Rev. H. W. Tetrart Piutaiiu Y. .^^)lmku Y. Nov., 190.^) 1). AY. Fre.shfield, ' Moln.kn Y. and A. L. Munini Terminal crest.. Mobuku Glacier Col on the top of the water- slied (?) Base of the Mo- buku Glacier Mobnku Glacier 14,900 ir,,400(?) 14,000 20 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. Date. Kxploiers. Route followed. Point reached. neii;ht, feet. Jan., 1906 Rev. A. B. Fisher, and ^Irs. Fisher .Mnliuku Valley iMdliiikii Glacier — „ 1906 R. Cirauer, H. E. Maddox, and H. W. Tegart )j Terminal ridge (King Ed- ward's Rock) 15,000 Ffb.. 1906 H. B. AVoosuam ... )) ») )) >: »» A. F.K.Wollaston, H. B. A\'oosnam, and R. E. Dent n )) )) ?» M A. F. Wollaston, and H. B. Woos- nam ?) Knoll on the ridge of Ki- yanja 16,125 April, 1906 The same, with M. Carruthers ?) Peak on N.E. side of the valley believed to be the Duwoni of Johnston 15,893 The same party ... )j Knob on the ridge of Ki- yanja 16,379 As may be seen hy this table, the Mobuku Valley was the route chosen bv the greatest iiuinbfr dt" tlie expeditious. By this route the liiuh terminal ridii-e had been reached three times. By this route Wollaston and his companions had succeeded in ascending two peaks of the chain, (ine of which was estimated at over 16,000 feet high. It would appear that Dr. David must have reached a still higher point by the western slopes ; but as I liave already menti(.ined, tlie accounts of iiis expedition, which aie at our disposal, are so vague as to render it impossible to identifv the col whlcli he ascended. 21 ('liaj)ter I. XATIYK MAilKET IN VCANIiA. Certainly no one of the forermmeis of the Dvike of the Ahruzzi had succeeded in actually expl(irin<;- the chain, tliat is to say, in obtaining the comprehensive kntrodedge requisite in order to describe the general formation of the line of watershed, the con figuration of the mountains, the relative heiii'ht of the (litferent peaks, their connection witli the several valleys, and the extent and piosition of the glaciers. The chief explorers had obseryed that the snow-peaks fall into four distinct groups. It was not known. howe\"er. wliether these groups were coiniected l)y high ridges or (li\'ided by deep ^•alleys. In the absence of systematic exploration it was impossible to bring into relation to one another the different descriptions of peaks as seen from diyerse points. The confusion between the several names given to them increased the difficulty of comparing the dit!'erent reports. In addition to all tliis, it liad been given •2-2 The Discovery of IJuwenzori. to only a verv few, on rare occasions and t'rom a great distance, actuallv to liave sight of the whole eliain. IXCEXSE TREE (?) Under these circumstances, tlie \ie\\s of travellers as to the height of tlie principal peaks, tlie e.xtension of the glaciers, and the. general features of the range were widely divergent and hased upon scant v foinidations. These vie\\'s were either derived fi\)ni a fleeting visi(jn of far-off mountains in great part hidden hv lower buttresses of the cham. or else based upon knowledge of one single valley whose surrounding barrier of ridges hid from sight all the greater and more important features of the range. 23 Chapter I. Tims it came alxmt that tlie estimated altitude of the hiij-hest peaks varied hetweeii 15,000 and ahove 18,000 feet. The only tnistworthv measurement was that derixed tVdm triangulatiou applied to the peak which appeared to l)e the highest. The triangulatiou was taken from various points to the south-east of this peak by Lieutenant Behrens of the Auglo- Gei-man Boundary Conunission. The calculations based upon this triangulatiou gave a height of 16,757 feet. Colonel C. Delme Badclirte, however, who was at the head of this Com- mission, noted the po.ssibility of higher peaks existing further northward and not visible from the point of observation. The chain of Ruwenzori, without doubt the most important grovip of mountanis and glaciers in Africa, and the one mystery still unexplored with regard to the question of the sources of the Nile, promised a fertile tield for research. The arduous character of the undertaking and the imcertaintv as to what obstacles might be encountered were calculated rather to attract than to dissuade so ardent an explorer and so keen a climber as H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi. 24 CHAPTER IT. Preparation and Departure of the Expedition from Italy. From Naples to Entebbe. Choice of Season — Objects of the Expedition — Organization of the Expedi- tion— Departure from Naples — Mombasa — Lieutenant E. AVinspeare falls ill — The Uganda Railway — The Tableland of Athi — Kift Valley — Port Florence — Kisumu Market — On the Winifred — The Gulf of Kavirondo — Smiset on Lake Victoria — Steaming upon the Equator — The Islands — Sleeping Sickness — The Archipelago of Sesse — Arrival at Entebbe. Of all the difficulties with which most of the predecessors of the Duke of the Ahruzzl had had to contend in the exploration of Kuwenzori, the gravest had heen tlie obstinate bad weather, the nearly incessant rain, and, in the brief intervals, the dense mist which shrouded the whole region. These untoward conditions gave the utmost importance to the decision as to which season seemed likely to be the least unfavourable. Judging indeed by the reports of former expeditions which had set forth in nearly every month of the 25 Chapter 11. VL'ur, it seemed that one .siug'lt' rainy season reiyuetl supreme amomr the mountains without auv hi^eak of fair weather. MOMBASA — I'dKT Kn.lMUM. The fact is that the great mountain range, rising like an island from the vast marshy plains of Uganda and the boundless forest of the Congo, l)ecomes a centre of attraction ft)r the mass of vapours sucked up by the tropical sun, which, condensing around the frozen peaks, form a permanent veil of fog and cloutl. Thus it lias come ai)Out that many a traveller has sjient months and months in the immediate neighlxiurliood of the chain without once having sight nf the peaks, or, at best, fugitive glimpses oidy. Stairs and Stuhlmann in June, and David in April apj)ear to have found climatic conditions slightly more toleral)le than the other explorers. Wollaston, however, had very l)ad luck in April. Sir Heniy Stanley writes in May that he saw the snow 26 From Xaples to Entebbe. peaks uncovered " fVequentlv, almost dailv.' < >ii t\iv otlier hand, Sir Harry Johnston cites the local residents to tlie effect that the hest months ai'e November and I)t^'eeml)er. Freshfield, on tlie contraiy, encoinitered tlie verv worst weather in these months. Accoinits iiiven hv tlie missionaries residinti' in tlie district of Toro. at the foot of the cliain. ajipeaivd to concur with Sir William Garstin's report on the basin of the Upper Nile in admitting the rains to be somewhat less fre(|nent in Januarv and February, and in .June and .July, althonnh the atmosphere upon the mountains remained gloomy e\e'n ihniiii;' those months. The MOMBASA — PORTVGUESE FORT. t'Xperiences rep()rted by pioneers were not in agreement with these forecasts which, however, it seemed better to accept, as formino- the only l)asis for a decision. The Duke therefore Chapter 11. arranged to leave Italy in the spring iu order to reach tin- mountains by the beginning of June. The expedition was accordingly eipiipped in the early nidnths of 190(). Care was taken to enable it to reap the utmost iirntit from the exceptional opportunities for scientitic investigation offered bv a journev among mountains still almnst \niknM\\n. and THE UG.VXDA r>AILWAY. situated in peculiar conditions in the centre of a continent where much still remains to be discovered. The main object of the expedition was of couise geogra])hical in tlie strict sense of the word ; that is, to clear up the topography of the chain and ascertain the heights of the moimtains. This work was to be com])leted l)y observations on ])hysical geography, meteorology and magnetism. In connection with these aims it was important to illustrate 28 From Naples to Entebbe. iunjilv bv })li(>togi-aphy the regions traversed. Next in nrder came theological and (jlfxciological research, inclndino- niineraloov. Lastly, there was every reason to expect that in the vet unex- ploi-ed valleys and nioiuitain slopes interesting additions would he tuund to our knowledge of the fauna and flora of" Ruwenzori. Witli a view to carrying out this plan of research, the L)uke of the Al)ruzzl selected as companions on this occasion Commander Umberto (_'agni, who had taken part in botli of his previous expeditions, and liis aide-de-camp. Lieutenant Edoardo Winspeare, to assist in the topographical work and tlie observations connected with pliysical geography. The photography was entrusted to Cav. Uff. Vittorio Sella, wlio hail already accompanied H.K.H. in the ascent of Mt. St. Elias. I)r. Achille Cavalli Molinelli, R.N., who had taken part in the Duke's Arctic Expedition of 1900, was once more chcseu as medical attendant to the party, and was also to assist Dr. Alessandro Roccati in the collection of zoological and SUGAlt-CANE VENDORS. botanical specimens. Dr. Roccati was furthermore specially entrusted with the ffeoloo-ical and mineralog-ical researches. 29 Cha])tev 11. It would l)i> a waste of Axords to discuss the neeessitv i>t taking" Alpine guides on an expedition of which chnihini;' was to form the essential feature. Furthermore, as there was every reason to expect that, in the conrse of the AT A r.AU.WAY STATIOX. exploration of a niomitain ranye whose sunnnits had lieen estimated hv previt)vis travellers at heights varying from 16,000 to over 20,000 feet, prolonged sojourns above the snow- limit would he necessary, the expedition had to he fm-nished with the needful ecjuipment for glacier camps, more or less on the lines followed in tlie ascent of ^It. St. Ellas in Alaska. This involved the necessity of taking out European jiorters as well as guides, for it was impossible to count upon the services of the natives beyond tlie foot of tlie glaciers. The guides chosen for the expedition w^ere Joseph Petigax, the intelligent and devoted companion of the Duke in the Alps, in Alaska, and on the Polar Expedition, and Cesar ( )llier. Both of these guides, as well as the porters, Joseph Brocherel and Laurent Petigax, were from Courmayeur, in the Valley 30 From Naples to Entebbe. of Aosta. Oilier and Bioclierel liad alreadv o'liided the Mackiuder-Haiisburg Expedition to Mount Kenya (East Africa) in 1899. There was also Enninio Botta, of Blella, the assistant photographer of Sella, who had had experience of rouoh life and exploration in the Caucasus, in Alaska and in tlie Hiinalava. L-astly there was the cook, Igino Igini, of Acquapendente, \v\n> had passed an Arctic winter in tlie Dukes service in the Bay of Teplitz. I will not describe at length tlie preparation nf the equipment, to wliich tlie Prince attended with tlie same scnipuLms care for detail which liad so mueli contributed to the success of his former undertakings. It was especially ditKcult and complicated on this occasion, owing to the necessity of meeting the letjuirements liotb of a long march I'l iKT FLOKENX'E. across trt)pical regions, and of a prolonged sojourn among ice and snow. Everything was ready liy the beginning of April, and on tlie 31 Chapter II. evening of the IGtli tlie whole party set out from Naples on board the German liner Biirgermeister Ijounil for East Africa. THK "WINIFRED ALONGSIDE THE PIEK IN roi;T Fl.UltE.NCE. Tiie distance from Naples to Mombasa, situated on tlie East Coast a little over four degrees south of the Equatoi-, is about 4,100 miles. The steamers usually take seventeen days on the voyage, with brief stops at Port Said, Suez, Aden, and Jibuti. Africa as seen from the Red Sea i.s far from attractive. The coast is low and sandv. ilat or bounded by dunes. The hills are barren and naked, the comitrv baked bv tlie sun, desolate and sterile. The i)orts upon the liigli road of the great trade lines, present a profoundly depressing spectacle. Arabs, Turks, and negroes in rags and squaloi-, \\itli swarms of crippled, diseased, and leprous })eggars combine to form a population of countless races, poisoned and deteriorated jjhysically and morallv bv sudden contact Avith a civilization too widely dilierent from their own. The wliite mans highly complicated and subtle civil organization, tlie growtli of an immeasm-ablv long period, (hning wliicii individual development has kept pace with the evolution of tlie liody politic, has lieen .suddenly thrust with 32 From Naples to Entebbe. disastrous results upon races undeveloped and unprepared for its reception. The voyage was most prosperous, with calm sea and fine weather which changed onlv toward the end. Professor Koch was among the passengers, and the monotony of the voyage was thus pleasantly broken for the Duke and his companions by talk al)out Equatorial Africa, whither Koch was returning to proceed with his studies on the sleeping sickness, that gliastlv scourge whicli has in a few years nearly depopulated vast districts around the great lakes. The last days of the jovu-ney were clouded l)v the illness of Lieutenant Winspeare. High fever developed and it soon became manifest tliat it would be impossi])le for him to NATIVES GOING TO MARKET, KISUMU. accompany the expedition across the unhealthy region between the coast and the mountains, which is often fatal even to those who undertake the journey in a perfect condition of health. 33 Chapter II. Mombasa is situated upon an island surnnuided by a steep coast of coral formation, and covered with palms. This island lies in a bav forming- two sheltered channels, of which the r'^ • ■''afi!fc\^5'!^ up ife WBI^'*" ^'^ ™ f^» A SHED IN THE MAr>KET PLACE, KISL'MU. easternmost, known as Port Mombasa, is narrow and difficult of navigation, and suited onlv to the small craft which trade along the coast, while the other, known as Port Kilindini, is capacious and convenient, and here the English, French, German, and Austrian liners ride at anchor. The Biiiycrmeister entered tliis port on the morning of 3rd May. Concessions made by the British authorities with regard to customs and transport, and their courteous assistance, togetlier with that of the few Italian residents, facilitated the landing of tlie etpiipment. Mombasa, like the other cities of this coast, was founded about the year 1000 by Arabs and Persians. Coins, inscriptions, and architectural fragments record their occupation. 34 From Naples to Entebbe. The island upon wliicli the city is built is known in tlie native language as Kisiwa niwita, or " Island of War," a name which agrees with its history, wliicli is entirely made up of warlike vicissitudes. Mombasa is the best port on the whole east coast of Africa, and was a valuable station on the old trade route for India before the Suez Canal. For these reasons it was for centuries one of the most eagerly sought positions and one of those most persistently disputed between the Arabs, Portuguese, and Turks, who lield it alternately. When tlie Portuguese domination came to an end in 172'J, Mombasa was KAVIKUNDi) WOMEN'. governed for over a century by Ai'abs of the family of Mazrui. under the nominal suzerainty of the Imans of ( Jman. When the latter transported their capital from Maskat to Zanzibar, 35 T) -2 Chapter II. they drove out the Maznil from Mombasa and re-established their own elective domination tliere In 1837. The Portuguese domination is recorded by the ancient fort, a massive edifice Ijuilt ttiwanls the end of the sixteenth century, several times dismantled, but which still stands and bears cut in the stone the Christian symbol " I.H.S.," together witli the eai^des of the Austro-Spanisji dynasty which governed Portugal in 1635, when the fort was restored. Tt now contains the prisons and a military store-house. After 1848, English and German geographical exploring expeditions followed one another. In their wake were formed colonial trading companies, which established themselves on the coast and penetrated the country little by little, gradually obtaininsf concessions from tlie Sultanate of Zanzibar or throuirh treatv with native chiefs. Anglican and Catholic missionaries next made their way still further into the interior, where they had been preceded by the Mohammedans. In consequence, religious wars lacerated Uganda for many years. In 1890, Germany and England established by treaty their respective zones of influence. Three years later, the Imperial Government of Great Britain took over the protectorate, and since then has ])ushed the occupation up to the boundaries of the Congo State. On the morning of the 4th of May, Lieutenant Winspeare was carried to the hospital, which stands on a healthy, airy, and |ileasant site overlooking the ocean and the picturesque Portuguese fort. The grey sky and fine rain seemed to fit the depression which all felt at having to leave a comrade behind at the very outset of the undertaking. Lieutenant Winspeare recovered sufficiently to leave Mombasa to retm-n to Europe on the 12th of May. 36 From Naples to Entebbe. As Is well known, Momljasa is now connected with Lake Victoria by a railway whicli runs uorth-w'est from the coast in a direction nearly ])arallel to tiie Ano-lo-Gennan boundary, and KISUMU MARKET. touches the lake at Port Florence at the head of tlie Bay of Kavirondo, almost upon tlie equator. At eleven o'clock on the morning of the 4th of May, the Italian expedition left Mombasa by the railway, which traverses regions completely unknown less than thirty years ago. The distance from the east coast to Lake Victoria is 584 miles. At the present day this (hstance is covered in a couple of days without the least fatigue, comfortably seated in the little narrow-gauge railway carriages which are arranged inside like those on oiu* own Sardinian railways. Only a few years ago several months of difficult and dangerous travel among warlike tribes, over wretched tracks, in an unfavourable climate and with all the complications, obstacles and expense 37 Chapter II. of ;i numerous car;ivan of poiteis were required to eo\er this ground. The construction of this railway was a truly great work, owini^- t() the serious obstacles which liad to be overcome. It stands as a witness to splendid perseverance and resolution in an incessant struggle for si.x; years against the gravest difficulties. Vast tracts of tlie countrv are absolutely lacking in water or I'esources, and, in fact, practically a desert. A great part of the way passes over mountains wliere the line rises to a height of 7,700 feet, descends to G,000, and mounts again to 8, ."500, only to drop down to 3,700 on the shore of the lake. KlSUjrU MARKET. No help was iorthcoming iiom the natives, mere naked savages, devoid of industry or skill, incapable of work in any shape whatsoever. It was necessary to transport an armv of 38 From Naples to Entebbe. 20,00U labuurers and ui-tisans from India, tu feed, lodge and clothe them, and to supply them with the necessary implements. Evervthing had to bf brought out either from England or from India, thus necessitating as great forethought and as complete organization as are required for a military campaign. In addition to all this, owing to the enormous difficulty of tran-sport in a countrv where the tsetse-fly makes the use of beasts of burden impossible, the work of cutting and preparing the line could only proceed a very short distance in advance of that of laying the rails. Some of the districts traversed were unhealthy. At times epidemics prevailed. The men were tormented Ijy divers kinds of parasitic insects. Lions made numerous victims and struck terror into tlie workmen. The vmdertakina: was commenced in 1895, before the completion of the contpiest of Uganda. In the very midst WITHIN THE E.NXLOSURE OF THE M.VKKET, KISUMU. of the work in 1897, the colony ran a serious risk through mutiny among the Sudanese troops and the rebellion of the Kings of Uganda and Unyoro, instigated by the Mohammedan 39 Chapter IT. party. Yet in tlit- tliiicl year after its iiiaiiguratioii, the Uganda RaihAay counted 179,000 passengers. A European, landed for the first time in Africa, must experience a strange sensation on finding himself suddenly transported hv railway into the very midst of a landscape, where every featm-e, people, animals and })lants unite to form the picture which he had so often attempted to create by imagination. Immediately after crossing the bridge that joins Mombasa to the continent, the railway begins its ascent to the tableland, passing first through fields of mango, cocoaiiut, banana and all the ])eautiful vegetation of the coast zone ; next, through the midulating and bare plains of the Tarn desert, where thorny bushes and a few euphorbias are the only plants ; then once more through a fertile country among flowering fields and woodlands. The stations, placed at intervals of 20 miles from one another, consist each of a little wooden hut, beside a shed standing alone in the wilderness. Every 100 miles is a central station. Here the natives collect in numbers from the neighboiu'ing villages to sell sugar-cane and bananas to the third-class passengers. The train continues to climb ])y a tjentle grade, and the snowy peaks of Kilimandjaro become visible to the south. The landscape is monotonous, and the coimtrv infested by the tsetse-fl.y. A little further on, for reasons imknown to us, the dangerous insect disappears, and a veritable Eden opens to the view of the traveller. This is the Tableland of Athi, the famous game preserve of the Government, upon whose rich pastures, dotted with umlirella acacias, graze peaceably, almost witliout fear of the train, A\-hole herds of zebra, buftalo, onu, antelope, and gazelle. Giraffes, too, may be seen peepmg timidly 40 From Naples to Entebbe. from behind the groups of trees, or ostriches driven into swift flight by the noise of the passing train ; while now and again the traveller mav be so lucky as to behold a lion saiuiteriuu BANANA SELLERS, KISIMU. across the plain, less startled perhaps than the onlookers, who gaze astounded u])on the extraordinary sight. About half-way on tlie journey stands Nairobi, a flourishing little town, thanks to the healthy climate and the fertility of the soil. Presently the country assumes a mountainous character, and the line climbs steep ridges clad with luxmiant forests of juniper and other evergreens, or penetrates into narrow silent valleys to reach at last the suuunit of the heights which form the eastern clift' of the Rift Valley, that vast entrenchment which winds through liigh plateaux between Lakes Rukwa and Nyassa to the south-west, and the Gulfs of Tajui'ra and of Aden -tl Chapter II. to the north-east. Tlie vailwav desceiid.s nearly 2,UU0 feet to reach the hottoni of tliis valley, which is about 30 miles wide, and is dotted with tiny volcanoes, some active, others extinct. Lakes and ponds of sweet oi- salt \\ater swarm with every species of aquatic liinl, and the ahuiidant water-courses make this one of the most fertile regions in Africa, as well as one of the most famous hunting groinids. After Nairobi the line crosses districts inhabited l)y the Wa-Kikuyu, agricidtural and sedentary tribes ; and by the Masai, nomads and herdsmen, great breeders of cattle and Ixild warriors, who stopped the progress of many an explorer of old. The Masai as a race are finelv proportioned, witli a jnoud, fierce OFF RUSIXGA ISLAM). mien and rather regular features, except the ears, which are unrecognizable, so deformed are they by absurd and voluminous ornaments. The women wear also heavy long copper spirals 42 From Naples to Entebbe. wound around their neck, arms and le^s. Tlieir clothing consists of a mantle of stuft* or ot skms stitched together, tixed upon one shoulder after the fashion of a toga-, or around the chest under the arms. NATIVE CAXOE ^^•IT1I TIIK I'linw OF PEACE. After passing through a portion of tliis valley, and close to several little lakes set in an enchanting landscape, the railway proceeds to ascend the opposite forest-clad slope to a height of 8,-SOO feet, wlience it again descends from valley to valley, throuiih "Toves of acacias, hananas and ijalms, to the level grassy shores of Lake Victoria. The train makes straight for the pier of Port Florence. While the goods were Ijeing carried on to the steamer there was time to pay a short visit to the market of Kisumu. Here the natives assemble in ureat numbers from the neip'hbourino; 43 Cliapter II. villages, mere groups of huts surro\inded by a hedge. They belong to the tribe of Kaviroudo, which was formerly one of the most powerful and one of the wealthiest tribes around the Victoria Nyanza. The crowds of men and women come across tlif level country, carrying on their heads baskets woven with great art out of grasses. The young people of both classes go completely naked until marriage ; after marriage they wear a scrap of goat-skin over tlie hips, rather as a synil)()l of the conjugal state than as a garment. They are renowned for thfir modestv and for tlielr morality, wliich contrasts with the dissolute tribes in the neighbourhood, although the latter are clothed. The Kavirondo are sober, gentle, peaceable and sociable. Sir Harry Johnston regards them as the most moral people of Central Africa. The native costume is unfortunately doomed to rapid dis- appearance. Here, as everywhere else, civilization, intolerant of all forms, aspects or traditions of life that differ from its own, is swiftly introducing that monotonous uniformity which tends to turn the whole Avorld into one people. It can scarcely be hoped that Kisumu, situated as it is at the termitnis of a railwav. will long preserve its distinctive character. Clear indications of a rapid change are already visible. Mino-lincr with the naked natives are many partially or even wholly clad in garments of white, striped, or gaily printed cottons, over which they often wear some hideous European garment, such as a waistcoat, a jacket, or a tail coat, witliout the least consciousness of their grotesque and absiu'd appearance. The market is held in the open air or under sheds erected on purpose. It consists mainly of small traffic in dried fish, sweet potatoes, grain and bananas. Tlie buyers stand in groups U From Naples to Entebbe. around the ss^llers, who crouch or sit on the ground heside the baskets of every conceivable shape which contain their wares. Men and women smoke the short straight pipes of the country. Others circulate hitlier and thither with that buoyant and elastic tread, like the gait of a wild animal, which comes from the habit of moving without the impediment of clothes. The women wear a string of beads aroinid their waist, from which a sort of tail of woven fibres hangs down behind. The men wear necklaces of glass beads, with Inacelets of iron on their wrists and their ankles. Tlic iinxle of dressing tlie hair is frequently fantastic and enibelllshtMl bv feathers, lilp}>opotamus teeth, etc., etc. AMi.iXC; THE SESSE 1SL.\ND.S. The current coin, as througliout Eastern Africa, is the rupee, wortli about l.v. 4(/. The use of cowries for currency persists only in those forms of trade wliicli recpiire sulxlivision to an infinitesimallv low value. 45 Chapter II. The steainslii]) Winifrerf, witli its twin, the SiJ>i/I. ])erfoniis a veunilar service between tlu- h;al)(>tn-s of Lake Victoria. The trade increased so rapidly that a tliird steamship was lannt-hed in 1907, and a fourth is ah-eady in construction. Port Florence is situated in the little bay of Ugowe, at tlie eastern extremity of the (lulf of Kavn-ondo, oj)posite to and a, little hi!j,hei- than Kisnuni, which is on tlie other side of the hay. The Lxulf of Kavu'oiido runs inland to a distance of about 45 miles, wliile in some places its width scarcely reaches 3 miles. NAPOLEON ]!AY, TAKE VICTORIA. Its outlet into the lake is narrow and almost closed by islands. The water of the gnlf is yellow, dirtv, and stagnant, nor is the least trace of any current j)erce})tible. It is dotted with 46 From Naples to Entebbe. floating islands formed hv tangled masses of aquatic plants, upon which germinate and grow the papyi'us, nympheea and other species, which afibi'd shelter to myriads of aquatic birds. The north coast of the gulf forms a level plain. On tlie south side, at a short distance from the shore, a series of volcanic peaks, more or less rounded on tlie top, rise gradually into a chain of wild mountains, culminating in a jagged ridge, overtopped by a high and fissured cone nearly 4,000 feet above the lake. Navigation on the Victoi'ia Nyanza ceases with nightfall. On the evening of the 6th of Mav accordingly the Wmifred, whicli had started at half-past two in the afternoon, cast anchor near to the Island of Rusinga where she was to pass the niglit, at the point where the Gulf of Kavirondo opens into the lake. Tlie steamei- was immediately surroimded by native canoes. These are lartre boats of slender form, carrying twenty rowers or more, not roughly hollowed out of tree-trunks, l)ut liuilt regularly from the keel u})ward with boards held together by fibre cords and the interstices caulked with fibre and resinous gums. The prow is armed with a long sharp point, covered at ordinary times by the " prow of peace," the extremity of which is turned vertically upward and is frequently adorned with feathers, horns of animals, etc. The evening; \vas now closing in. The slender canoes were leaving the sides of the Winifred. The fine nude torsos of tlie native oarsmen strained every muscle to the rhythmical stroke. The sharp click of the oars on the rowlocks was already dying (lut in the distance. Tlie waves broke with a gentle murmur on the .shore of the island. In the shallow water the hippopotami lifted tlieir ungainly heads from among the reeds, while flights of birds sought their roosting-places on the scattered rocks with 47 Chapter TI. slirill cries. The sua was setting in a halo of fiery douds. The last rays lit up the nnfaniiliar scenery where the shadows of night increased the si-iisi- of surrounding mystery. SHOr.ES OF I.AKK Nlt'TolUA, XKAK KAMPALA. Little l)v little the colour of tiie skv passed from red and purple to colder hues and tlu'ongh svdatler tones. Soon clouds and water and islands seemed to minule and \anish in the twilight wliich was spreading swiftly over tlie surface of the lake. For hundreds and lumdn^ls of miles on every side stretched the vast regions of Central Africa, unknoA\'n up till yesterday, inhahited Iw that indiappy race which has survived a martyrdom of centuries, crushed under its fearful past of slavery, blood- thirsty rulers and nuu-derous wars. To-day this era of violence 48 From Naples to Entebbe. lias come to an end or is on the point of ending. The European, who for years past had Ijoiiyht ivory and slaves fi'om the infamous Arab merchant, is now endeavoiiring to atone for the past and hopes to bestow a future of peace and prosperity upon the black by means of Christianity and civil organization. England has led the way in this heavy and laborious task, just as she had already taken upon herself the duty of routing out slavery, in the struggle slie has carried on by sea and BOTANICAL GARDENS, ENTEBBE. land practically single - handed for eighty years. The goal, however, is still very far distant. Vast regions are wholly unexplored and out of all European control. Elsewhere the 49 E Chapter II. inferiority and weakness of the negro are too strong a temptation to his economic exploitation. In many places a state of social security appears to have bred sloth and dissoluteness among the natives, together with intemperance and lack of self-control, while every species of disease devastates the wretched and degenei'ate population. The civilized nations have but their own love of justice from which to draw the strength and consistency of purpose needful to carry on without hesitation a liumauitarian work wliich demands disinterestedness and self-denial, o'ifts unfortunately rare in social aggTegates. On the morning of the 7tli of May, by daybreak, the Winifred proceeded on her way, no longer in the muddy and colourless Gulf of Kavirondo-, but in the open lake, whose waters are limpid and transparent, of a rich colour between emerald and blue, and as pure as crystal. A few hours after leaving the shore the land fades out of sight, giving the illusion of being on the high sea. The Victoria Nyanza is, in fact, surpassed in size only by Lake Superior in North America, and is so vast that it is possible to voyage along or across it for more than 200 miles without seeing land. It is like the sea, too, in its sudden and dangerous storms which raise up waves as high as those of the ocean. The hydrographic survey of the shore was onlv finished last year, 1907. The shore line measures 3,200 miles and the survey occupied Captain B. Whitehouse seven years. The centre of the lake is still in great part unexplored and gives rise to numerous legends which are current in the country about islands inbabited Ijy caimlbals, ships swallowed by wbirl])ools, monsters which inhahit miexplored abysses, and other such matters. 50 From Naples to Entebbe. Even when out of sight of laud the voyage is uever monotonous. The aspect of the sky varies unceasingly. Vapovu-s and clouds perpetually form, and dissolve, or gather into dark GOVERNORS HOUSE, ENTEBBE. storms, while the Avater, reflecting their changes in endless variety of colour and tone, presents a spectacle which is never wearisome. Flights of swallows pass through the air. Swarms of minute gnats dance on the surface of the water like a light mist. These are the only tokens that land is not really far oft'. The course of the steamers follows the equator, roughly speaking, and crosses the northern extremity of the lake from east to west, steering: clear of the chain of islands which lie along the coast. The.se islands form a breakwater, sheltering a wide and practically continuous channel where canoes and small sailing craft can navigate in safety. They vary in size from mere rocks just rising above the water, and whitened by the deposit of aquatic birds, to islands so vast as to form a small region in themselves, clad with dense forests, girt 51 E 2 Chapter II. about Avitli iirei;ul;ir and deejjly indented coasts, crowned with mountains attaining to a height of 2,000 feet above the surface of the lake, and inhabited by tribes which seem ahiiost to have acquired special characteristics in their long separation from the mainland. The most important and the greatest of all is the Island of Buvuma, one of the iironii which crowds around the entrance to Gulf Napoleon, and masks tlie exit of the Nile from tlie Victoria Nyanza. Buvuma was formerly inhabited by a wari-ior tribe A\lnch, relvino- upon a strong fleet, defended its independence with great valour against the poA\-erful kings of Uganda. The sleeping sickness has turned into vast graveyards the greater nmnber of the beaiitiful and fertile islands of the MAIIKET, ENTEBBE. archipelago. After depopulating whole districts of the Congo, it appeared in Uganda between 1900 and 1902 and has spread further and further, following the main routes of conununication, invading step by step the territories of the Baganda, Basoga and 52 From Xaples to Entebbe. Kaviromlo, and luaking gigantic inroads even to the point of 40,000 victims in one year. The sleeping sickness is especially- fatal to men in the prime of life, and hence whole villages and MARKET, ENTKBBE. islands may he found tenanted by women and children who alone have siu'vived. The British Museum Expedition mentioned in the preceding chapter, found in the district of Maniema, south of Kuwenzori, a multitude of natives stricken with the sickness and di'iven out from their villages, only to wander hither and thither in the country and die, untended, by thousands. Hospitals have been started and are increasing in number. Attempts are made to organize helji and to encoiu'age emigi'ation from the infected districts towards those which are still healthy, but the means are utterly inadequate to gi-apple with the swiftness and the activity of this fearful plague. Sleeping sickness is caused by a parasite, a trypanosoma, discovered by Dr. Aldo Castellani in the brain of patients who 53 Chapter II. have (lied of the iiifW-tioii. Tliis tiypanosoma is intiuchiced into the system through the sting of a tsetse-fly, the Glossina palpalis (Col. Sir D. Bruce). Occasionally the disease breaks out in the form of acute mania ; at other times its development is slow and insidious, with only a slight change in the appearance of the patient ; presently vertigo makes its appeai'ance, with headaclie and swell- ing of the lymphatic glands of the neck. At last come trembling, somnolence, a quick pulse and an apathy which increases until it reaches the point of torpor or coma. No really sure remedy is known. Sundry arsenical preparations appear to be eflicacious, one of them, atoxil, has recently given results which are rather more encouraging, but it is still uncertain as to whether a real cure can be expected. IN THE COURTYARD OF THE Eyl ATOKIAL HOTEL, ENTEBBE. 54 From Xaples to Entebbe. Oil approaching the north-west corner of the lake, the steamer enters a channel between the Sesse Islands and the coast. The Ai'chipelago of Sesse, where concessions of land have NATIVE HUTS AND PLANTAINS. been granted to Italian companies for the cultivation of coffee and the collection of rubber, is the jewel of the Victoria Nyaiiza. Luxuriant forests cover the great islands down to the very brink of the lake, where the foliase is mirrored in the limpid waters. You w(nild esteem it an eartlilv })aradise, yet tliat charming scene conceals unspeakable desolation. The last forlorn remnants of the inhabitants, decimated l)v the dire disease, live mourning for their dailv liereavements and dreading their impending late. The Winifred, soon after passing the entrance to Murchison Bay, entered the Bay of EnteVjbe and came alongside the pier about 3.30 p.m.. May 7th. The exjDedition had now reached the end of civilized means of communication, after travelling 4,750 miles in twenty-one days. 55 Chapter 11. Tlie Duke of the Abruzzi was received on lauding by the High Commissioner of the Protectorate of Uganda, Mr. Hesketh Bell,* who offered him hospitality iu liis own house, together with Commander Cagni. The other members of the expedition were entertained by Messrs. G. F. M. Ennis and W. M. Carter, both judges of tlie High Court of Uganda, and by Major L. C. E. Wyndham. The guides were put up at the Equatorial Hotel, kept by an Italian, Signore Berti. * In October, 1907 the High Commissioner of the Protectorate received the title of " Governor." 56 CHAPTER III. From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Eiitelibe the Capital of the Protectorate —The Six Hills of Kampala — H.H. Daiuli Chwa, Kaliaka of Uganda — The Missions — Commander Cagni's Illness — Equipment — Formation of Caravan — Departure from Entebbe — General Characteristics of the Country Traversed — Baganda Villages — Climate — Baganda and Suahili Porters — Encampments — Visits of Chieftains — Exchange of Presents — The Camp of the Blacks — Mitiana — Lake Isolt — The Usjanda-Toro Frontier — First sight of Puwenzori — Butiti — King Kasagama — Arrival at Fort Portal. Entebbe, or Port Alice, founded 1)V Sir Gerald Portal barely tifteeu years ago, is the political and administrative capital of the Uganda Protectorate. The Pro- tectorate includes much more than the old kingdom of Uganda, having been enlarged by the addition of the kingdoms of Toro, Unyoro and Ankole, which form a semi-circle to the west and south of Uganda pro|)er. To these we must add the district to the east of Lake Kioga and around the gi'eat extinct volcano Elgon, as well as the vast regions known as the " Nile Province " and the " Rudolf Province " to tlie north. Chapter III. The town is situated iqjon two hills at the extremity of a peninsula formed In* two arms of the lake. The streets are wide and lined with houses, built according to the usage of the tropics, with wide verandas surroimded by gardens full ot flowers. Tlie site Is enchanting, overlooking the great lake, dotted \\ itii picturesque islands ; the wire netting, however, over windows, verandas and doors, tells its own storv of malaria. GENERAL A'UvW OF ENTEBBE. There is an liotel, there are Protestant and C'atliolic Churclies, there are three hospitals, sevei'al conunercial firms (among others a branch of the "Italian Colonial Society" established in Zanzibar), and sundrv shops and stores kept by Indians and Goanese. Along the shore of the lake stretches a considerable botanical garden, whicli contains a collection of the flora 58 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. of the region as well as experimental cultivation of exotic plants, such as European vegetables, flowers and fruits, coffee, tea, cotton and even vines. Many of these are already cultivated widely and with good results in the Protectorate. At the northern end of the town is the public market, the habitiial liaunt of the natives who congregate in great numbers around Entebbe hoping to get a jol) or an engagement as caravan porters. .SHED I.N Tin-: Jl.VnKET, EXTEUBE. The native villaa;e, numlierino- some hundred huts in all, lies further inland, among jilantations of bananas, fields of maize and lofty trees. A fine and well-kept road leads fi-oni Entebbe to Mengo or Kampala, the native capital of the kingdom of Uganda, about 20 miles off, built upon a group of hills, each one of wliich is occupied ])y a different conununity. Mengo is the 59 Chapter III. royal hill, Nakasero is the name of the hill where the English officials reside ; the huildiugs and churches of the three difterent missions, one Anglican and two Roman Catholic, French and English, governed each hy its hishop, occupy the three separate hills, Namirembe, Rubaga and Nsambya. Last NATIVE HUTS, ENTEBBE. of all comes Kampala, " the hillock wlilch was contemptuously given to Captain Liigard Ijy Mwanga, where the fii'st seed was planted from which the British Administration all over these vast territories grew and pr()S|)ered."* * Sir Harry Johnston, " The Uganda Protectorate," Vol. I., London, 1904. 60 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The common centre of these diverse congregations is the bazaar, with shops well stocked with all sorts of wares, kept by Indians. The present King of Uganda is His Highness the Kabaka Dandi Chwa, aged barely thirteen years. He was placed upon the throne in 1897, when liis father Mwanga was deposed. His ascent to the throne was attended by tlie ceremonies conse- crated V)v national tradition, witli one important exception. That portion of the solemn and ancient ceremonial which consisted of a large slaughter of subjects, was on tliis occasion omitted. THE KAMPALA ROAD, ENTEBBE. The constitution is unchanged. The chikl King has three Regents by his side, tlie Katekiro, or Prime Minister, the Supreme Judge, and the Treasurer. He governs ^\ith tlie assistance of a Council composed of twenty chiefs of districts and of sixty-six notables who represent all the districts. The members of tliis Council are chosen by the King, but the 61 C'haj)ter III. representative of the Britisli Government lia.s the right of veto. It is to be hoped that Dandi Chwa, carefully educated according' to civilized principles of modern justice, may retain no trace of the bestial ferocitv of his ancestors, and that the royal palace of Mengo mav never again see such horrors as steeped it in blood in tlie days of the Kings Mtesa and Mwanga. \ .^ '' 1* £■■" 1- F;SWffa •^ • ■ c-ii^mW^ W, / wmmm |<( P^fe Hjg^Hj^Hli ^IJM^II u "Mr m ^ HANGING NESTS ON T}IE LEAVES OF A TALM. Hundreds of lunnan victims sacrificed at a word fnun a sorcerer, wholesale slaughter of the population for a wliini, or 62 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. on account of a di-eam, or to quiet the superstitious terrors of the Kabaka, torture, mutilation, daily murders of wives, of servants, of slaves, the country emptied of women to fill the harems of the kings or chieftains, all this formed a condition of A ROAD IN UGANDA. affairs whose incidents were so especially ghastly that they would seem to surpass the limits of human possibility if they were not proved by the mianimity of the descriptions of witne.sses who saw Uganda in those days. The neighbouring kingdoms were in a similar condition, Avhile the population of •the islands were cannibals. The transformation of the country in so few years is miraciilous, and the greater portion uf the merit is to be attributed to the Mi.ssions. These Missions are the direct continuation of the first Anglican Mission which came to Uganda in 1877 on the invitation of King Mtesa, transmitted to England by a letter of Stanley, which lias become historical. 63 Chapter 111. This was followed two years later by the French Roman Catholic Mission. The persecution under Mwanga, the murder of Bishop Hannington, the torture and burning alive of many native Christians failed to put a stop to the work which progi'essed with extraordinary rapidity, undisturbed by the civil wars and political changes. In 1895, an English Roman Catholic Mission was added to the list. The number of native converts to Christianity increased yearly bv thousands, while Islamism remained stationary. Manners and customs rapidly improved. Education followed NATIVE HUT. moral training. The missionaries created a wTitten language for the country where none had heretofore existed. Schools grew up by hundreds beside the churches. 64 k ti ^ > From Entebbe to Fort Portal. At the present time many villages around Entebbe and Kampala are entirely Christian. The blacks may be seen any day squatting on the ground aroimd the catechist. Throughout the country numbers of natives may be met going or coming from their labour in the fields, jiraying or reciting the rosary on their way. They are all clad in the long white tunic with wide sleeves, which has almost universally replaced the older garment made out of strips of the l)ark of a special variety of fig-tree, beaten until they become soft and flexible, and stitched together with great art. On Sunday, in the spacious churches of Mengo, which aftbrd room for several thousands of persons, men, women and childen may be seen worshipping with exemplary fervour and decorum. On the other hand, it cannot be denied that Islamism exercised an important and beneficial influence in rescuing the country from its barbarous condition. In many districts the Mohammedans are still in the majority. The Italian expedition remained at Entebbe from the 7 th to the 15th May to prepare in detail the organization of the caravan. During this time Commander Cagni unfortunately fell a victim to the unhealthy climate, taking the malarial fever on the 8th of May. This persisted, in spite of quinine injections, and was complicated by intestinal inflammation. It soon became necessary to remove him to the hospital, which was situated in a healthier position, and afibrded better accommodation. Owing to this calamity, the Duke lost invaluable assistance at the very moment when the work Ijegan to be difficult and complicated. The luggage of the expedition had been carried by porters to the courtyard of the Equatorial Hotel, followed by a crowd 65 F Chapter III. of inquisitive children and adults. Here the cases were opened, and their contents verified and inventoried. The whole camp outfit , including tents, heds, sleeping bags, stools, tables, baths, cooking utensils, the hermetically sealed cases containing clothing ; the photographic materials, and the materials for the zoolocrical, ])otanical and mineraloo-ical collections : the arms and ammunition, formed I 14 loads weighing about 47 lbs. each, all nmnbered and so marked as to he immediately recognizable. A }m,I,Y BIT OF KOAD. The commissariat formed 80 additional loads of the same weight, each one of which contained rations for 12 persons during one day. The supplies had been laid in on a calculation of a sojourn of 40 days above the snow-limit, and of a period of the same length below, to allow for the journey from Entebbe to tlie mountains and back. The rations were in tin boxes, soldered and enclosed in thin wooden boards. The only differ- ence between the high-mountain rations and those for the lower regions was that the latter were without tinned meat, because 66 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. it would be easy to find fresh meat supplies throughout the inhabited regions. According to calculation 194 porters were needed to carry the entire equipment. In addition to these there were the caravan leaders, the personal servants, or " boys," with their own porters, the natives who were needed to take care of the horses and nniles, and who were to drive the oxen, goats and sheep which were provided f(3r the sustenance of the caravan. ACROSS THK MAliSlllCS. and other natives, with simdry minor attributions. The total mounted up to above 300 persons. Mr. J. Martin, Collector, who had special experience in oi'ganizing caravans and journeys, had caused the men to be selected and got together during the months preceding the arrival of the Italian expedition by Sig. Bulli, an ex-employe of the Italian Colonial Societv, who was also to accompany the expedition. 67 F 2 Chapter III. Three hov... and thn-e -auU-s luul l.eeu pn.vuled U. occasional riding, beside two rickshaws holding one or two ;:;ons each, to^. drawn or pushed )>y natives, tor use on the relatively level portions of the road. i'ArYr>i ANn watkr tjues. Everything was ready by the 12.h of May. The L)uke however lingered three day. more, as he could hardly make u 'r nind to leave C.gnl behind. At last it became obv.onsl, Lsary to set forth .ithont bin,. The p-ohable dura »n . his illness was too uncertain, and further delay would h.ue involved the risk of letting the best season pass, not to n«.^t- the risk of some one else falling ill. and so endangenng he wM success of the expedition. They could only hope that Cagn,, 68 THE TROPICAL FOREST From Entebbe to Fort Portal. thanks to the devoted care of the excellent Doctor Hodges, might recover in time to overtake them. Witli this ohject in view, he was left provided with all the equipment necessary to permit of his setting out as soon as he should be sufficiently recovered. On the 14tli of May, H.K.H. and the rest of the party took leave of the kind liosts who liad done so much to make their stay at Entebbe pleasant tor them. The Collector, Mr. Martin, as representative of the Protectorate Administration, accom- panied them as far as the frontier kingdom of Uganda with an escort of twenty-seven native soldiers and sixty-seven porters. KI.KPHANT CRASS. Early on the morning of the loth the porters with their caravan leaders, the boys, and the soldiers were gathered in the com-tyard of Berti's Hotel, where the loads were distributed, while the Prince and his companions were taking leave of Cagni 69 Chapter III. and endeavouring to cheer up his spirits with the hope of overtaking them. By 8.30 the porters had their loads on their heads, and started on their way in a long file, with deafening- shouts, on the wide and even road to Kampala. The caravan THE \AT1\ E PATH. numhered ahout 400 individuals, and tlie vanguard was nearly out of sight hv the time that the Prince and the other members of the expedition started in their tiu'n. Soon after leaving Entebbe the road enters imder tlie majestic vaults of a tropical forest. The distance from Entebbe to Fort Portal is about 180 miles, with an ascent of some 1,165 feet. This ascent mav be I'egarded as falling into four sections Ijelonging to separate river systems. The first of these collects the waters which flow southward into the River Katongo, a tributary of the Victoria Nyanza. Lake Isolt belongs to this section. The second and third basins contain the affluents of the 70 FROM FORT PORTAL TO BUJONGOLO S ECTION Horizonral Scale 1: 1,000.000 Verrical Scale 15 000 The heights oF F*Portal and Entebbe are based upon barometrical observatons taken in the botanjcal garden of Entebbe and near the residence of the Collectop of F' Portal FROM ENTEBBE TO FORT PORTAL S ECTIO N Horizonral Scale 1 1.000000 Verrical Scale 1 5.000 The heights oF F*Portal and Entebbe are based upon barometrical observations taken in the botanical garden oF Entebbe and near the residence oF the Collector oF F* Portal From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Misisl, which takes its course northward and flows into the Albert Nyanza. A last rise brings the traveller to the watershed between the tributaries of Lake Albert Edward and those of Lake Albert, vertical section annexed This distribution is brought out in the IX THE TllOPICAL FOREST. This vast reo-ion, which forms a sort of tableland between the three lakes, is intersected in every direction Ijy ridges of hills, lower, steeper and more crowded to the east, more dis- tinctly marked into ranges to the west. 71 Chapter III. The colour of the earth is a hrick-red throughout the district. The vegetation is distributed according to accidents of the soil. The high groiuid, the top of the hills, and their slopes are covered with deep grass and occasional single trees or groups of a few ti-ees set in Ijrushwood. The valley bottoms where water ilows are covered with luxuriant forests. Where the waters BETWEEN SWAMP AND FOREST. stagnate stretch vast swamps covered with gigantic papyrus, under whose shade flourishes a rich growtli of aquatic plants. From tlie higher ridges, as far as the eye can reach, stretches an undulating plain, whose rounded hillocks, covered witli deejj yellow grass, are diversified bv low-lving strips of dark screen forest. From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The word grass, by the way, is liardly appropriate to a gi'owth Avhich, while reaching a height of from 10 to 20 feet, is at the same time so dense as to make it practically impossible to deviate from the path, and ofters far more analogy to a huge bed of reeds than to a meadow. It is called " elephant grass," and is indeed a pasture appropriate to such a herd. From time to time the elephant grass makes way for herbaceous vegetation on a more modest scale, not more than three feet high, and dotted with innumerable flowers. I'I..\NT.UN (Mil (YES. The natives are in the liahit of setting tire to the grasses- during the dry season. Possibly the vast &es thus kindled, and which spread especially on the heights where the earth is dry and where the wind fans the flames, destroy the young trees,, and so hinder the formation of forests except in the sheltered valleys beside running water. The fact is that, as a rule, the trees which stand here and there among the tall gi'asses, and give the coinitrv the characteristic look of a park, are all of 7.3 Chapter III. very considei'able size. The principal species are acacia, mimosa, euphorbia, erithryua, and spathodea, both these last with brilliant scarlet flowers. At tlie loot of these trees, among the brushwood and low plants, is nearly always to be found one of those curious cones constructed by termites which characterize all Central African landscapes. It would seem as if some reason must exist for their invai-iuljle connection with these isolated groups of trees. Possibly tlie termites, by collecting earth in one spot, favour the development of buslies and creeping plants, which in their turn serve to shelter the growth of some forest tree until its roots are firmly established in the soil. The forest zones in tlie valleys along tlie brooks are I'eal oases of virgin forest. The luxuriant trees over a humhed feet high, diverse species of acacias, majestic palms (Borassus and Rapliia), cassia and dracsena, are overgrown with climbing plants, and entwined witli the long rojies of giant lianas. Troops of monkeys are fi'equently seen leaping from branch to liranch witli shrill cries. The white-tailed Colobus is the commonest species. The forest soil, even on days of blazing sunshine, remains damp and elastic. Off the path the whole ground is one carpet of deep moss. The contrast with the open tracts enhances the charm of the forests. After crossing a slope scorched by the sun, the traveller enters into the jirofomid sliade heavy A\itli the perfumes of acacia, mimosa, jasmine, and lionevsuckle. The district is fairly populous, but the inhabitants are so hidden away among their banana groves and impenetrable grasses that it is possible to pass quite close to villages without noticing them. They consist of clusters of huts usually situated half-way up a liill, surroimded bv tufts of From Entel)l)e to Fort Portal. bauauas, littlt^ cultivated fields and a few forest trees. The huts are of the usual conical type. The circular roof thatched with grass straw is artfully constructed to reach down to the ground on every side except over tlie entrance, \\'he!e it is cut short and BAUANDA WOMEN. projects into a low narrow porch. The interior is encumbered by the numerous pillars and posts which support this heavy roof. Some of the luits are surrounded by an enclosure, or even by .several enclosures, so that three or four courts must be crossed to reach the house. 75 Chapter III. The land around the huts; is cidtivated for a short distance onlv. As is usual in tropical countries, the indolence of the population limits the production of the soil to the amount which is strictly necessary to sustain life. There is no trace of co-operation. Each family owns its hut and its Held, which it 1!A(;axda. cultivates for its owni exclusive use. Agricultural laboin- is performed entirely by women. They cultivate plantain, egg- fruit, potatoes, sweet potatoes, beans, maize, dura, cotton, sesame and sugar-cane. A delicious fruit, always cool and refreshing, is the pawpaw. 76 From Entebl)L' to Fort Portal. The Ijanaua, or plantain, is the staple of diet. There are several varieties. Besides the sweet banana, which is eaten ripe and raw, there is a jalantaln which is gathered unripe and eaten cooked. From the flesh of another variety a sort of bread is made. The juice is pressed out and forms a refreshing, cool . V'.^Y^ ^^^1 fcj ^^t^^l' l) B BAGAXDA WOMKX. di'ink called Mbisi. This becomes alcoholic and intoxicatino- if allowed to ferment, and is then called Mweuge. Finally the leaves and stalks are used for various purposes. The origin of the cultivated banana is uncertain. Botanically it is quite difierent from tlie wild native banana, and it is doubtful whether it could have been derived from it. II Chapter III. The path, which seems at times like a sort of deep trench cut through walls of high grass, and then again opens out into a tolerably wide road over tracts of plain, proceeds as straight as any ancient Roman highway, crossing hills or following their ridges, descending into valleys and piercing forests, or rvuniing over reaches of watery swauijjs on a low viaduct. Tliis latter is constructed by cutting down papyrus stalks and canes I'AWPAW TREE. and throwing them across the road from side to side, thus forming a thick stratum upon which the path is built of sand and earth, beaten hard and strengthened on either side by piles driven deep into the mud. This is the ancient road wliich existed before the British occupation. It is kept up with great care by gangs of half- 78 From Entebbe to P^'ort Portal. naked women, old and young, who weed out the grass and smooth the way with Httle native spades. The first part of the road, where the hills are nearer to one another, runs incessantly up and down the steejj inclines. After Lake Isolt the slopes hecome gentler, with intervals of plain, and the marches are consequently less fatiguing. The swamps, too, diminish as the ti'aveller approaches Fort Portal,, and the countrv takes on a healthier look. PORTERS HUTS. The temperature is pleasant in the earlv morning, l)ut towards midday it becomes very liot, althougli, fortunately, during the hottest hours the sky is nearly always covered with clouds, which, be they thick or thin, are always sufficient to veil the blazing rays of the sun. Nearly every day or night there is a violent liut brief tliunderstorm with a gale and torrents of ram. Happily, the Italian caravan liad no experience of the terrible storms, accompanied by water- spouts, cyclones and dangerous electrical discharges, which 79 Chapter III. inundate, tear up, and destroy everything upon tlieir path, ^nd are said to be not infrequent in Uganda. The changes of weather are, as a rule, sudden. In a few minutes the sky, up till then clear or scarcely veiled with a light cloud, grows ]:)lack as midnight and threatening. With equal rapidity, after a brief period of rain the heavy dark clouds are dispelled by the blazing sun. BlILDIXG A HUT. The duration of the marches was from three to six Tiours, during which period from 10 to 18 miles were covered. The porters, as a rule, walk fast ; in some places they nearly run. The caravan usually started with the dawn, about 5.30 ; and stopped by midday so as to rest during the hot hours. On the march the caravan covered nearlv h:df a kilometre. 80 c C < EC (< From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The din of the chatterino;, hiiie;hiui>- and shontino- was a little diminished in the hard Ints of road only where a steep up-hill would set even those wdio were not loaded panting. From every little village along the way the natives ran out, curious to see the sight and exchange chatter and laughter with the porters. Now and then the travellers met a caravan bringing salt frt)ni Toro, or ivory from the Congo, or even a white trader travellino; with his own escort. The native escort exercised a certain discipline over the numerous party, and intervened from time to time to adjust quarrels and disputes started, as a rule, by the porters who, in order to lighten their own labour, would requisition by force any other natives whom they might meet on the road. The blacks are on the whole childlike, good-natured and peaceable, or ill-tempered and savage, according as they are managed. With a little tact and goodwill, not without necessary firmness, it is easy to direct their impulsive natures. The great majority of the caravan consisted of Baganda, the real native population of Uganda, whose anthropological characteristics are so diverse as to presuppose the product of mingled elements. Some of their features are distinctly negi'oid ; as, for instance, woolly, jet black hair ; the nose sunk at the root, flat and wide ; l)road, protuberant lips and projecting ears. But the prognathism is not marked, and the brow is wide and not retreating. They are usually lean, not muscular, and do not give tlie impression of a very strong people. Their manners and customs seem more advanced than in many other African tribes. They neitlier dye nor grease their skin ; they do not tattoo their persons nor cover themselves with decorative scars, and witli the exception of the children 81 G Chapter III. and a few womfu they are not loaded with necklaces and bracelets. Many a traveller has been astonished by their complex social order, a veritable feudal system, while in their legends and traditions, in the designs of their household utensils made of plaited grass, in the form of their musical string instruments, in their astronomical svmbols carved upon horns, and in certain biu'ial rites, indications have been suffg-ested of relations and contact with ancient Egypt. \'ISIT IIF A CHIEF WITH HIS COVRT, ERIXGIXG TEESENTS. The Baganda have preserved the history of their ancient dynasty by puie vei'bal tradition. It consists of thirty-six names of kings, and must date back as far as the fourteenth or fifteenth century. The Suahili porters formed a smaller part of the caravan than the Baganda. The Suahili are a cross between Arabs and Bantu negroes. Coming oi'iginally from the coast, they are now scattered over the whole of Central Africa. 82 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The encampments were always situated at a certain distance from the villages, in places selected beforehand and prepared for the purpose. There was usually a hut where meals were provided for the Europeans, and one or two sheds to shelter the equipment from the weather. Around the sheds stood the European tents. Mr. Martin formed a second smaller camp. Entrlish and Italian flag-s were tlown over each. The tents were surrounded by a zeriba or enclosure of plaited cane DAXCINC; IN THE PORTERS C.VMP. which served less as a defence than as a means of dividing the European camp from that of the native porters. The native porters would arrive at their destination at a run, singing and shouting, tlirov,' down their loads hastily on the spot fixed for tlie purpose, and immediately set to work to build huts for tlieir own shelter. The luits would spring up all aromid with the most marvellous rapidity. Tlie method of 83 o 2 Chapter III. construction is most ingenious. A nnmi)er of sliyht rods or flexible canes are stuck into tlie eartli in a circle. Their upper ends are bent so as to meet in the mitldle and interwoven so as to form a dome. Upon this are placed bundles of grass disposed in such a manner as to leave a narro\\- opening for the entrance. Thus in less than a quarter of an hour a vast grassy plain is transformed into a considerable village. While the work proceeds, there arrive from the neighbouring villages long files of women and old men carrying on their heads parcels of WRESTLING MATCH AMONG THE PORTERS. fruit and of sweet potatoes wrapped in plantain leaves. Swarms of naked chikben accompany them. The tiny ones are carried on their mothers' backs in a told of their garment. In this way the caravan lives entii-ely on food supplied by the population of the regions crossed. In the meantime the Duke would receive a visit of ceremony from some chieftain, whose airival in camp, attended with the pomp befitting his dignity, had been heralded by 84 yj/:ir n/rnr/-i:\- ixiiiiuii-: A\n roRr ro/rrAf.— r/ihJsx fkom a hill ahoih camp nii'i-YA O '■^Sa^WJi**^'' "■• -■^:w «..--/. ^ S From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Groups of native converts, strangely contrasting with their heathen surroundings, would pray in a loud voice, or recite the rosarv. In addition to tlie rosarv, thev were often adorned with BETWEEN ENTEBKE AM> FOKT I'ORTAI.. crosses, medals and reliquaries hanging around their necks. Here a Mohammedan would lie worshipping on liis bit of carpet at sunset, while yonder the native escort would lie p'oinjy throutrh their dailv drill. As evening closes in, the cauip is lit up by hundreds of fires, around which the porters sit until far on in the night, roasting the sweet potatoes, or boiling the plantains which, witli the addition occasionally of a little dried fish, form their sole diet. After a march of five or six hours over heavy ground, carrying fahly substantial loads on their heads, this frugal single meal was amply sufficient to their simple needs. Banana wine is a rare luxury, while water is scarce and filtliy, witli a disgusting: smell and taste even when boiled. 87 Chapter III. The various menihers of the expedition were hy no means idle during camp. Tlie Duke was in the habit of attending in person to the sorting and verifying of the equipment ; to the meteorological observations taken with instruments arranged in the little camp observatorv which was set up at each camp in the most suitabU- position ; and to the observations of lono-itude and latitude. CAMP .\T P.TMOXGO. At eacli halt Dr. Cavalli was innnediately besieged by crowds of native patients from every distiict, while one or another of the porters was siu'e to make daily demands upon his treatment. Sella, besides his photographic work, would spend part of the afternoon in roaming in the neighbourhood of the camp with Roccati and Cavalli in cjuest of botanical and zoological 88 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. specimens. Contrary to expectation, the lower forms of animal life 23roved to be rare. Possibly they have been annihilated by the termites which invade and destroy everything. Native men and boys fi'om the neighbouring villages would join eagerly in the quest, and show visible amusement at the sight of Roccati treasuring up diminutive insects, spiders and scorpions, and putting Ijy Hzards and cliamseleons. CAJU' AT KATE.NDE. Now and again a shooting party would set forth. Guinea- fowls and doves abound in the plantations around the camps. The region is rich in elephants, zebras, antelopes, lions and leopards. This sort of game, however, requires special beating,, and is not compatilile witli the rapid marches of a caravan bent upon a totally ditierent aim. It was only very seldom and 89 Chapter III. at a great distance that an occasional antelope was seen fleeing from the approach of the party. Towards evening the air woidd grow cool, and after dinner the Europeans would gather I'ound the now far from unpleasant warmth of a great blazing fire which served also as protection against mosquitoes. At night the latter became a real plague ; througli long and wakeful liours you would liear their drone diversified by the cry of the sentinels and the strange trill of the huga-huga, a tiny bird which builds its nest aroimd camping places. Between three and foiu- in tlie morning the reveille was sounded by trumpets and tlie camp at once filled with din. It took the caravan little more than an hour to get ready to start. The porters fell upon their loads and set forth with their usual shrill cries. The journey from Entebbe to Fort Portal took fifteen days. On the 18 th of May they encamped at Mitiana, near a brancli of the French Roman Catholic Mission at the foot of a hill, on the top of which stood a small shrine. They exchanged visits with the Missionary Father's, who sent presents of excellent European fruits and vegetables. On the following night they leached Bujongo in sight of Lake Isolt, a lake rich in fish and dotted with wooded islands. This and the following camps were fortified with strong hedges and palisades, because the country was infested with lions to such an extent that the natives would not risk travelling by night. On the 25th of May they crossed the border between the Province of Uganda and the Western Province, which includes the districts of Toro, Unyoro and Ankole. In addition to the native chieftains of the new district, followed by their respective coiu'ts, the Prince was here met by the Sub-Commissioner of the 90 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. province, Mr. A. F. Knowles, who was to accompanv the expedition throughout his own jurisdiction, while Mr. Martin returned with his escort to Entebbe. RUWENZOKI SEEN FROJI BlTITl. Henceforward the reveille was no longer somided by trumpets, but by the rolling of the Unyoro drums. The game now seemed to become more abundant. Numerous deep elephant tracks crossed the path. Herds of antelopes became more frequently visible in the far distance. Vultures, hawks, and other birds of prey wheeled in the sky. A new feature of the landscape was the granite formation, which here and there pushes its wav through the soil in rounded hummocks somewhat similar to the rocks known as moutonnees, in regions which have passed through a glacial period. The gi-ass became less deep, the trees and flowering shrubs increased 91 Chapter TTI. Ill iimnbers, while between the hillocks were open spaces of ijroinid nearlv liarren save for a prowth of reddish -vellow trrass mingled with low ferns. The plantain groves diminished in extent and were in })art replaced Ijy sweet jjotatoes and beans. The district was lessthicklv populated than that which preceded. The march was often heavy and fatiguing. The weather had clianged for the worse, and frei[uent rainfalls made the track muddv and slippery. As the expedition drew nearer to the Lakes Albert and Albert Edward, their impatience to see the chain of Ruwenzori ^ m^ — NEAR BUTrn, WITH KVWEN'ZOEI IX THE EACKOROUND. grew acute, and from the moment wlien they entered the TorO' district their attention concentrated itself upon the western horizon, esjjecially when the path led tliem over the top of some 92 i\ o I*. I From Entebbe to Fort Portal. hill. Twice they fancied that they had sight of snowy peaks, l)ut it was an illusion created by white clouds Tipon the horizon. Finally, on the niurninL;- of the l!.sth of May, from the top of certain hills to the north of Kaibo, which form part of the watershed between Lake Albert Edward and Lake Albert, on a day when the sky was clouded but the air clear, tliey suddenly saw against the sky to the westward the sno\\-y peaks of the great chain, which were about 45 miles off, and looked as if they were suspended in the air, for their feet were enveloped in mists while a heavy rack of clouds hung so low over the sununits as nearly to rest upon them. Seen from this point, the mountains appear divided into three main groups. Of these, the central one is dominated by a characteristically cloven peak, covered with snow% which seems to l)e the highest of all, and which is separated from the group to its south liv a deep notch ; the third group is to the north or north-east of the central mass. The foot of the glaciers, which come down from the high I'idges, is hidden by the projecting spurs of the range. They encamped that day at Butiti, where the Missions (Protestant and Roman Catholic) were abundantly hospitable. The camp was protected by a strong palisade guarded by sentinels, and gi'eat fires were kindled all around. Occasional roars heard distinctly through tlie silence of the night showed that these precautions were far from superfluous. Two weeks later, at Misonga, not far from Butiti, a lion made its way into Cagni's camp and succeeded in escaping unharmed, thanks to the darkness of the night. On the following morning. May 29th, about an hour and a-half from Butiti, the Prince and his companions climbed a hill close to the path in order to get another look at Ruwenzori, 93 Chapter 111. which was here visible in all its splemlour. They liad now come further north-west, and hence the northernmost group of the chain appeared iiearer to the central group, which from this point also appeared to be the liighest of all, and to show the greatest extent of glacier. The sky was clear over the mountains to westwaixl, but dark and stormy in the east. Eight and left stretched au imdulating plain with low rounded hills, reddish or earthy yellow, dotted with dark green patches of euphorbia, or of the light and finely cut foliage of the acacia. Farther oft', the landscape melted into the misty distance, and finally vanished from sight near the foot of the mighty spurs of the range. Moore was reminded in these regions of the Alps as seen from the Piedmontese or Lombard Plains, but the comparison does not hold good. The dift'erence is profound, although so siibtle as to baffle analysis. It is true that the far-(jft' slopes clad with elephant grass, and the swamps hidden imder tufted papyrus resenible our hills and our cultivated valleys. There is no definite sign to indicate that those far-off" plains, Avhich to all appearance might consist of meadows and cornfields, maize plantations and orchards, are in reality the lair of elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and lions. Yet still the picture is in a different key, with a grim solemnity of its own. The likeness is the fruit rather of a mental comparison than of a real, direct impression from Nature. Signs of the handiwork of man are nearly totally absent. The huts of the natives, tlieir banana groves and their simple crops are only just visible on closer inspection of the landscape, of which they form an insignificant detail, hardly touching its virgin and primitive aspect. A little further on the party crossed their last forest, the finest of all that had lain across their path, and swarming with 9i mm^^M^^i^ r .cvi^it ^ » < r- 'JH ■■6 V. I , •■:} ■ -^Sr* *^ ■«c,:- : ^gH|i| i" W^ FOREST BETWEEN' BVTITI AND FORT I'ORTAL. TROPICAL FOREST NEAR FORT PORTAL From Entebbe to Fort Portal. monkeys. After a long inarch of seven liours thev reached Fort Portal on the same day. On approaching Fort Portal, H.K.H. was received hy tlie KiniT of Toro, Kasao'ama, a handsome man. al)ove the averaov stature, with an o])en and intelligent countenance. He was accompanied hy a large escort carrying numerous gifts. After crossing the helt of cultivated fields around the city, they entered the wide, clean street of Toro hlazing witii smi, and flanked on either side hv the chiefs of the i-egion wlio had come with escorts to receive the e.xpedition. The street was crammed with people, and e.speciallv witli noisv children. Fort Portal was founded in 181M hv <_ apt. Lngard after he h;id deposed Kaharega, who was an allv of Mwanga in liis revolt, and had set Kasagama upon the throne in his place, thus ending a period of frightful persecutions and raids which had nearly depopulated the counlrv. The site of Fort Portal is very liealthv. It stands at a height of 5,000 feet above the sea. in a hasin hounded to tlii^ \\est hv the range of l{u\\enzori, winch slojies do\\ n towards Lake Albert in a long chain of gradually lessening spm\s, and to the east hy the hills which divide the basin of Lake Alhert Edward from th;it of Lake Albert. Of the great range tady the highest points are visible, wlieu l)y exception they are not covered with clouds, above an advanced buttress known as the Portal Peaks. To the north-west, at tlie foot of the mountains, are scattered volcanic cones amonii- wliit-li lie numerous small crater lakes. The European re.sidents of Fort Portal, including ladies, are scarcely fifteen in number. They consist of tlie Suh- Conmiissioner, the Collector, the (/ommander of the troops, and the ('atholic and Protestant Missionaries. Tlie dwellings 97 II Chapter HI. of tlie Ena,'lisli (>ttiei:ils, includini;' tlu' residence of tlie S\il)-( 'oinmissioiier, siiiToiiiuled hy a hedge and a palisade, stand upon a liill. Upon tiie neigliV)ourin>;- liills are tlie Missions and tlu- Hospital. Upon another hill to the south- east, covei'ed with extensive haiiana j)lant;itions, are situated the dwellings of the King of Tore. On the low ground THE CARAVAN ON T)IE IIAKC'II. hetween the hills stand the shops, like those of Kampala, in long lines on either side of a A\i(le avenue planted w ith trees. There are also barracks for native troops, and the usual market. There are many natives here of the Baliima tribe. These are handsome people, alleged to be of Ethiopian origin, tall of stature, slender of figure, \\ith finelv ]iroportioned lind)s, a 9S From Entebbe to Fort Portal. somewhat liirhter colour than tht^ Bauanda, and leuiilar features similar to those of the white races. They are all shepherds ; thev wear a cloak of skins, and speak a language of tlieir own. The jjure type is growing i-are on account of tliPir mingling with tlie Baganda tribes. The expedition was hospitably entertained in Fort Portal at the residence of Mr. J. O. Haldane, tlie Collector. Tlie portei-s encamped on the low ground at the foot of the hill. 00 CHAPTER IV. From Foht Portal to Bujoxgolo — Mobuku Yallky. Two ' detour across the low reoions, throusb malarial districts, in order to turn tlie southern end of the XATI\K HUT. chain and reach the Sendiki Vallev. Here, there would be uncertainty as to the sufRciencv of local resoiu'ces to feed so numerous an expedition, and still greater uncertainty as to 10:.' From Fort Portal to lUijongolo — Mobukii Valley. the disposition of the natives, who were known to l)e fre([npntly hostile and turbulent in the Congo District. Of" the two alternatives the latter seemed certainly ti> ofi'er the more serious risks. The Duke of the Abruzzi decided JIAUKKT, FORT PORTAl,. therefore to follow the more direct and shorter loute, ascending' tJie Mobuku Vallev and arri\iug comparatively quickly among tlie liigh mountains, where it would be possible to obtain data for forming a decision as to the futmv route. The two davs at P\)rt Portal liad hern davs of complete idleness for the nati\e porters, and liad been suthcient to undermine and V)reak up the discipliuc to which thev had become accustomed during their two weeks of steady work. When the drum and tin- trumjiets soiuidt'd the reveille at 4.30 a.m., June 1st, not one of the whole troop was ready. Boys antl porters dropped in late, one by one, and it took over two hours to get the caravan into marching order. At 103 Cliapter IV. last it stiu'ted, witli tlir usual sliouts, preceded by the Eni;lisli and Italian flags. The bao-iraii-e was already diminished by the rations consumed during the preceding fortnight. It was now fiu-ther reduced l)v a number of personal ettects which were left l)eliind at Fort Portal. ( 'onsequently, a portion of tlie porters had been dismissed, and tliose retained were selected among the strongest and healthiest. The Prince was accompanied on his start from Fort Portal by Mr. Knowles, the folleetor. Mr. Haldane and Mr. WoUaston, HU.l.S XEAU FORT P()I1T.\L. who was on his way to rejoin the British Museum Expedition in the Nyamwamba Valley. An escort of twenty native soldiers accompanied the caravan. Their wives had come to bid them farewell. The form of their 104 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — -]\Iobuku Valley. leave-taking was as sober and dignified as jiossible : t^acli woman knelt before lier husband, who placed one hand n}»i>n her head. As has been said. Fort Portal is situated upon the heights whicli divide the basin of Lake Ali)ert from that of Lake FORT ruKTAL. Albert Edwai-d. The latter is connected 1)V a short, narrow watercourse with Lake Dueru or Kuisaiiilia. which lies in the liollow called " Albertine Valley." at the foot of tlie eastern slope of" liuwenzori, and receives all the waters wliich flow down from the ciiain on that side. To reach the Mobuku Valley the path skirts tlie u])per l)asin of Lake Ruisamba witliout descendinir to the lake, runnin"- first alona: tlie hills which form the watershed, and then following the eastern foot of the 10.5 Chapter I\'. cliaiii til nil iiortli to soiitli. and crossing the lower course of the vallevs ami torrents wliieh nm down from the I'icloes. The couiitiv is fertile and well-watered, l)ut Nery sparsely cultivated excepting in tlie neighbourhood of Fort Portal. The population is wretched and unhealthy looking. The path, now a mere track, now widenino; out into a road, is in mauA' places a true mountain trail, which would be extremely fatiguing and even ditheult were it not kept up with great care. Natives are to be met at every step, especially women and old men. emiiloved in mendin"- and weedino- it. The Avomen. as usual, earrv their babies on their back or at their lireast and keep their larger children by them. Children and .adults are absolutely naked, or else wetir rags or skins around the loins. The women adoi'u themselves with bracelets or. lacking these, tie rings of twisted banana leaves round their arms and ankles. The way lietween Fort Portal and tlie Mobuku Valley was traversed in tluee stages. After leaving the European station the patli tirst descends over the wide road of the Mpango Vallev and crosses the river on a wooden bridge. Next, it ascends to the Roval Hill, where King Kasagama, surrounded by his whole ct)urt, waited for H.R.H. Another brief halt was made at Notre-Dame de la Neige to take leave of the courteous Fathers of the French Mission. Tall hedges run on either side of tlie path, which winds between numerous huts scattered in fields of pease, millet, sweet potatoes and tobacco, and extensive plantain gi'oves. The wav now led south-west, making straight for the mountains. Low hills were crossed l)y easy slopes, and four hours brought the expedition to Duwona camp, which stands against the foot of the mountain among blossoming euphorbia 106 From Fort Portal to Biij()ii<;ol(i — Mobuku Valley. trees. Below lies the Albertine Valley, dotted Avitli small volcanic cones. The peaks aho\"e were shrovided in dark mist. The rest of the sky was clear, and the day ended in a limpid .sunset. Chi till' t'nnnwini;' iiKiri luii;'. the way struck s(iuth\\ard, tirst sku'tuiii- widp low rxliies co\ered with (deiihant "rass ; and then KTM! KAS.VGAM.V AND lUS CorRT. crossing by steep ascents and descents the foot of divers spurs of tlie chain. The wa\' skirts the mountain so clo.sely that the .snowy peaks are hidden from sight. Niunerous torrents had to be forded. Onlv one of these was of a certain size, namely, the Wimi, which, wlien swollen, may become a .serious obstacle. The expedition found it about 30 feet wide, the 107 Chapter IV. water very cold, tioiii two to three feet deep, and the current fau-ly swift. A hue of uieu was formed iu tlie water, stretching from one Ijauk to the other, aud the porters witli their loads crossed up-stream of them. In this way any man who slipped ^"^^^^^^ 1 ■ ^^^^^^^^^^^^v-. •m^^HT.^k.r 1 " ^^m ''^(m jfc .-, -SttMc^" ' ii*- ^^B,g|jH w^i^Sf^ a ^B^' 1 ^imu Mi ^^^^^i^^S ■k ^^gj NEAR FORT PORTAL. or staggered was iuunediately caught aud held ; and in the space of al)out one hour the whole caravan was gathered on tlie opposite hank, Avhich was very steep aud coven-d with tliick grass. Not a single jjarcel had heeu lost. lots P'rom Fort Portal to Bujongolo— ]Mobuku ^^alley The camp of Kasongo was reached before noon. Tliis canq) stands higli upon one of the spurs of the range. Lake lluisanil)a was just visible through the mists which hid the plain. Between Kasongo and the Mobuku Vallev there was still one last valley to be cro.ssed, known as the Hima. Soon after leaving the camj). on the morning of the ."ird of June, a portion of tlie high chain appeared in sight to the west- ward, framed between the sides of the vallevs. First appeared two rocky peaks* with a great glacier at their feet. As the expedition proceeded southward, and went down into the Vallev of Hima, these peaks were gradually hidden ; while to tlieir right, that is northward ol' them, came into sight, liit bv bit, the double peakt covered with .snow, which, as seen fiom Kaibo and Butiti, appeared to form part of the central group, and to be the highest of all. Tlie Hima Piiver was crossed upon a ligiit bridge, and after tliis tlie [jath ran up the vallev for a short distance westward. tliPH turned .southward again and ascended tlie .slope of the buttress, lichiud which lav the MolnikTi Vallev. It was still early in tiip morning when the expedition reached the top of the ridge, and commenced to descend the other slope into the Mobuku Valley. Meantime the peaks of liuwenzori continued to come out one after another to the westward. To the right of the dou])le .snow peak, and separated from it l)y a low, wide col. appeared another gi'oup of peaks,;}; whicli extended north waid in the shape of an ice ridge edged bv a l)ig coiniice, under wliich stretched a glacier. * Elena and Savoia Peaks of the map. f Alexandra and Margherita Peaks. I Mt. Spake (xw illustrations, pp. 115-llG). 109 Chapter IV. Thus, :is the caiavaii liail proceeded tVoiu iioitli to sovitli. tlie peaks of the chain had hecome visible in inverse order from south to north. In tliis way two rocky peaks had come into view, connected ])y a wide glacier with the twin peaks coxered with snow. These four togetlier foi'med what from Kailjo and Butiti appeared as the central group of the chain.* Next had followed a wide depre.ssion, after which the ridge had risen ao-ain and formed two great peaks of rock and ice wliieli ii^ ^ ^\ i 1 ^ t ^^1 ^ i'jK ' ^m il HIf'' i ^S) ^ : > ^ ^^"-s" 1 ,Jm^ lim ♦O IbJ wMMd li W ^^^^F^ fi 1^ - 1 B|fr— ' «Agf''»E^ ^^mBMBT' '-'^M^H ■-™*^- "' ' - -'^^ ^™ ^ \ WOMEN AT C.\JIP DUWONA. stretched northward so as to form a long snowy crest. < »nly this last group, which was, without doubt, the Duwoni of Sir Harry Johnston, was visible from the Mobuku Valley. * Mt. Stanley. 110 From Fort Portal to Bujongohj — ]\Iobuku ^"alley. The patli now went down to tlie Moluikii Ttiver. wliifli flows in a bed about 25 feet deep liollowed out tluou^Ii aiieipiit alluvial deposits. This torrent is some (JO feet widr. the ACACIAS 0\ THE KOAD BETWEEN' DIJWOXA AND KASUXGi i. water nearly three feet deep, and the current violent. The water is cool, but of a yellowish liue, whicli does not make it attractive to drink. While the caravan \\as collecting on the l)ank. the chiefs of the neicrhbovu'inu" villa!J:es were arrivinu" from either side of the valley, with their attendants bearing stools and umbrellas and followed by troops of natives. They all took part in helping the caravan to cross the ford. A rope was stretclied across the current, and nmubers of natives took up tlieir 111 Chapter IV. jiositidiis l)el(i\\' tlif i()})e to give greater security. The porters, witli tlii'ir loads, strao'p-led across iii)-stream of the cord and holding hv it. Ill tliis way tlie wliole jiaitv was soon reassembled on the other bank of the Mobiikn without accident and resumed tlieir way, now ascending the wide level valley bottom as far as the camp of Ibanda. Ibanda (4,540 feet) stands upon the right bank of the Mobuku River at a point where the valley widens into a plain more than one mile wide, sliut in bv rounded hills and covered UETWEEX nUWOX.\ AND K.VSONGO. Axith deep grasses and a few scattered trees. A small tributary valley opens near the camp. Further up, the vallev appears to be completelv shut in bv a high and steep peak which 112 From Fort Portal to Bnjongolo — Mobuku Valley. forms one of the Portals. Beyond this, again, rises the snowy mountain which has been already described, and which Sir Harry Johnston had named Duwoni. The general trend of the valley is from east to west. Marks of glacial action are evident. A little above Ibanda, on the opposite side of the valley, lies a stretch of mai'giiial moraine about thirty yards deep. A number of spurs seem to be tlie remains of frontal moraines cut oft' l)v the torrent. There are numerous boulders and round smooth rocks of the type known as moKtonnees. Finally, looking down the valley, a transversal ridge has every appearance of a terminal moraine. Round about the camp are numerous villages and plantain gi'oves. The natives are naked, witli strings of shells round their loins from which bits of clotli are suspended. At Ibanda there is not the usual shed for eating under cover. Fortunately the weather was fine, and a few' trees near to tlie torrent ofiered shade for the midday meal. Not a single fish was to be found, in spite of long and attentive inspection of the water. The evening was perfectly clear anil the light died away slowly. The familiar sound of the torrent called to memory (^uiet evenings passed in some remote valley of our own Alps. Below the camp blazed numerous fires which now and again seemed extinguished and rekindled as the dark sliapes of the natives flitted busily to and fro in front of them. The mountain walls of the valley stood out clear on the starry sky. The snows of Duwoni glittered softly in the bright starlight. The prospect seemed very hopeful. The Italian expedition were more fortunate than their predece.ssors in the circumstance that, before even reaching the feet of the mountains, they had sight of many peaks, and were able to ascertain the important 113 I Chapter IV. fact that the double peak seen from Kaibo and Butiti as In the centre of the chain and appearing to be the highest of all, is not the Duwoni of Johnston. FORD OF WlMl RIVER. Leaving the camp of Ibanda the march followed rapidly across the high plain, wliich was swampy here and there, with groves of tall acacia and dracaena and dotted with round smooth boulders. Soon they reached the foot of another buttress, a spur of the right-hand slope of the valley. Here the path became so steep at some points that even those who had no load to carry got out of bi'eath. The natives, who during the first part of the stage kept up their usual cheerful hubbub, now l)ecame silent as they panted up the wearisome ascent, and scattered far and wide, covering a long reach of the way. 114 From Fort Portal to Bujougolo — ^lobuku Valley. As the valley rises it puts on little by little a grim and mysterious aspect. The forbidding precipices of the Portal peaks seem absolutely to close its deep western recesses. About half-way up the spur is a narrow grassy ledge, where are perched a few native huts. These are the last human habitations of this valley. Beyond everything is desert. The place is called Bihunga, 1,760 feet above Ibanda, and 6,300 feet above the sea. Here the British Museum Expedition had spent Alexandra and Margherita Peaks. Mt. Speke. THE SX(J\V I'EAKS OF RUWENZORI, SEEX FROM THE HIMA VALLEY. several months in collecting material for research. A spacious hut still stood as a record of its sojourn. The tents were pitched around this hut witli difficulty, 11.5 I 2 Chapter IV. owing to the small space of level ground available. The ])orters encamped as best they could on the steep slope. The view of the mountains was entirely cut otf by the spur upon which the camp stood. On the other side they overlooked MT. SPEKE (the DUWONI OF JOHNSTON) SEEN FROM THE LOWER MOBUKU VALr.EY. the plain of Ibanda, and down the wide valley till the point where everything disappeared in the misty atmosphere. The near hill sides were clad with dense forest diversified by small clearings covered with deep grass. There was scarcely any sign of animal life. Near the camp they saw lobelias for the first time. There were many dracsenas, and a most beautiful erithryna covered with flame-coloured blossoms. A narrow strip of small cultivated fields surrounds the tiny village, which is inhabited by a few Bakonjos, naked in sjiite of the cold of this hiffh reffion. 116 From Fort Portal to Bnjoii^^^ |up 4 ^^9 ^^^BBH!^^ hu^^^^^ BMI ^H8^^9fi|BLL4 HHh^^U| { ^^^^1 H^t-Hft } '\r ^^^^L jliw£\ ^^H BK- Jf MLi 1 Aid -^i^^^^^^^^i ^^B^^^^^n 4QPFv|A|K H BBt—J-iL ^m> ^ .^ i^^^^B ■ H ^tf ' A'w A^^^^^^^H H 1^^ m ^^SB^I B^^^^l ];rii.i)iX(; sheds, uunda. The discovery of this important triliutary valley, over- looked by all the previous explorers, pemiitted the Diike to arrive from the first at certain vital conclusions regarding the position of the peaks. 122 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — Mobuku Valley. It was, as a matter of fact, throTigli the opening of this new valley and above its head that the expedition had seen the Duwoni of Johnston from Ibanda. Tn consequence it became evident that this nimintain does not stand at the inLLSmi:, BELOW EimXCA. head of the Molinku Vallev. Fuithcniiore. comparing the aspect of the chain as seen from Kaihn and Bntiti with the successive sight of tlu- swingle peaks, as descried in crossing tlie Hima Valley between Kasongo and Ihanda, and subseqiu'utly in descending into the Molniku Valley, it had become (piite {)lain that the peaks and glaciers of tlie liigliest central group 123 Chapter IV. were to the south of Duuoui. Consequently the wliule of this group must stand l)et\veen Duwoni and the Mobuku Valley. Hence it seemed ol)vious tiuit the newly discovered valley must lead into the very heart of the chain and penetrate amono-st its liiohest peaks f;ir more directlv tlian the Mohukn Valley. Owino- however, to the absence of all accoimts of this vallev and tlie uncertainty as to whether it was accessible up to the foot of the mountains, H.E..H. decided to continue on the road followed by preceding explorers, so as to lose no time in reaching some high })oint whence he might be able to judge of the relative positions of the peaks and valleys. The Duke of the Abruzzi preserved the name of BujukTi for tlie newly discovered vallev, this beino- the name l)v which it was known to the inhabitants of Ibanda. For five successive days the weather had been unusually fine for these regions, nor were they again to enjoy .so long a period of uninterrupted clear sky during the whole campaign, except quite at the last when they were on the point of leaving the mountains. On the morning of the ()th of June, with the dawn, a tine rain was falling from the grey cloudy sky. Provisions were expected by porters, who only arrived at about seven o'clock and consisted of eighty Bakonjos. These are tall men of robust habit, with somewhat prominent jaw, their hair is either shaven or disposed in strange fashion, and they frequently wear a small beard. Tiieir skin is tanned by the sun, the rain, and the cold, and is liard and rough as leather. They wear a piece of cloth banging from the loins, bracelets of metal or cord round their arms and legs, and a fur pouch suspended from the neck for pipe and tobacco. Some wear a leopard skin over their shoulders, or a cloak made of rabbit pelts (hvrax) stitched 124 o s From Fort Poital to Bujongolo — Mobuku Valley. together. There are no converts among them. They carry long staves on their marcli and use tliem with great skill in the difficult places. These eighty men were now kept to replace half of the Baganda porters who were at once sent down. Everything was set in order. The men were refreshed with food, and at last the expedition started at about eight o'clock. After Nakitawa the path, now reduced to a mere trail, descends from the ])row of the moraine, skirting its slope BIHUXGA. through -bamboos and creeping plants, to the bottom of the valley which here opens out into a plain. The way now leads across this terrace to the Mobukii torrent, here so small that Uo Chapter lY. it can ])e crossed dry-shod, leaping from stone to stone. A tree trunk thrown across the stream made the passage easier for the porters. The enoi'mous difference in the vohnne of tlie Mobuku River at Ibanda and above Nakitawa must be speciallv due to the FOREST ABOVE BmUXGA. influx of the Bujuku River below the latter point, and points to the conclusion that the supposed tributary is really the more important of tlie two rivers. The flat valley bottom is a lake of mud upon which grows a forest, nearly entirely composed of bamboos. The path is all water and mud. You sink in to the knee. Under the mud the foot meets with stones or pieces of wood, or is caught in a creeper or a fallen trimk, making it necessary to grasp the 126 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ^Mobuku Valley, surrcnnifling bushes, frequently thorny, so as not to lose balance. Little by little you learn to take precautions in ■walking, to recognize the points likely to aftbrd solid foothold ; to proceed now by jumps and again by placing one foot to the right and the other to the left of the path, perching upon stones or upon roots whicli rise above the mud or upon fallen branches of trees, or again by preserving FOREST AT THE MOUTH OF THE MAHOMA. your equilibrium along a fallen tree-trunk. But, even so, you frequently become entangled or get stuck, and seek solace in expletives which are more energetic and expressive than elegant. Meantime, rain began to fall lieavily, and Chapter IV. from tlie bamboos, from the heaths, from the tall ferns, and from all the leafage of the forest, a chillv drip fell ceaselessly njioii the travellers. Bedaubeil with mud from head to foot, their clothes TREE - FEI!.\8. soaked in water, after crossing the valley as far as its left slope, the expedition reached the foot of a high overhanging cliff at the bottom of a short vallev shut in bv a moraine. This was the so-called Kichuchu C'amp, at a height of 9,833 feet above the sea-level, and 1,133 feet above Nakitawa. The rocky wall forms a shelter over a narrow strip, where vou are indeed protected from the pouring rain, but where the soil is soaked with the water which drips off the rock upon it. Here there was room for a single tent only. All 128 .;^^'%^^ :#"**.. ■^.^. X \V*' ■' ♦^ ■V-''™' t-p '-'y •»? ;' up the Mobuku Valley, had bv this time nearly rejoined his comrades, who believed him to Ije still many days' jom'ney off. He had left Entebbe, as we said, on the 5th of June, with twenty-five porters, a ricksha^^■ and a horse. In a short time he so far recovered his sti'ength and got so perfectly into trainino- that he was able to make two. or even four, staues in a day. He took advantage of tlie full moon to leave before dawai, and continued the march till late in the day, doing 25 to 27 miles at a time. The porters, allured by presents of a sheep or a little money, performed miracles. Once they marched for seventeen hours, covering 32 miles. In six days, Cagni reached Toro. where King Kasagama showed him every courtesy. He left again in the morning of the 12th of June. At Butanuka he found the 178 Baganda porters who had been sent back fiom the Mobuku Valley. Following the directions of the Duke, he dismissed a portion of them, and sent the others back to Fort Portal, there to await the return of the expedition from the mountains. He iiad difficulty in crossing the AVimi River, which had now become an impetuous torrent some 50 yards wide, with a depth of more than three feet at some points, and he found a still more .serious obstacle in the Mobuku, swollen by the same rains which were imprisoning the expedition at Bujongolo. Not having a rope long enough to permit of his stretch- ino- it across the river, as the expedition had done, he tied too-ether the halter of his horse, the tent ropes, the cord.s used to tie the loads, etc., doubling them several times, and in this way he contrived a rope long enough to cover ahout lialf the width of the torrent. This lie liad kept taut across the central and swifter part of the current hy two groups of men. Thanks 163 M -' Chapter V. to the willing help of tlie chiefs and natives of tlie neighlwuiiny villages, lie managed to cross the river without accidents, but with the loss of half a day. On the 14th of June, at Bihunga, where the native soldiers of the escort were established, he changed his Baganda porters for Bakonjo. Two days later he reached Bujongolo, thus accomplishing the whole journey in ten stages. Here he found only Dr. Cavalli, the Duke having left tlie evening before, while Sella and Roccati had started that very morning to ascend the col to the south of Kiyanja. 164 CHAPTER VI. Peaks of the Central Group. The Bakonjo's dread of the Western Slopes — H.K.H. leaves Bujotigolo — March through fog and mud^The Col on the Watershed — Camp near the Lake — Ascent of the Valley to the West of Kiyaiija — Camp III— Col at the foot of the Central C4roiip — Camp IV — The Bujukii Valley once more in sight — Ascent of Alexandra Peak — In the Fog — Climbing Margherita Peak — Snow-blindness — Elena and Savoia Peaks — The Expedition united again — Adventures of the Duke's companions from the 15th to the I'Oth of June — Sella and Koccati climb a peak of the Southern Group. Douglas Freshfield had been told by liis caravan leader that the col towards which the southern ridge of" Kiyanja runs down, and wliicli forms a part of" the watershed, had been used as a pass by the natives on the west of the chain who were in the habit of crossing it into the Mobuku, on tlieir way to Btianilia to trade with the Bakonjo. The Duke, however, failed to gather from liis })orters tlie least scrap of information as to any way of commmiication l)etween the eastern and western slopes. They appeared rather to experience a feeling of terror for the district bevond tlic ridge, and seemed 16.5 Chapter VI. pnifouiidlv CDiiviuced that to go towards tlie Congo was equivalent to going to meet certain death. It was only too natural that, with these feelings, they sliouhl show extreme reluctance to following the Prince west\\ard. On the morning of the 15th June, there were only nine Bakonjo at Bujongolo, hardly a .sutHcient numher, with the addition of the four guides and Botta, to carry the kit of the Dnke, now reduced to absolute necessities and rations for a few (lavs. At the last moment the natives put forward a claim to being paid every day, and the Duke of the Ahruzzi was obliged to load himself with a not inconsiderable weight of rupees. Finally, about eight o'clock, as no other excuse for fresh delay was available, they stai'ted from camp in brilliant sun- shine. First they went up the little valley which, as we saw, opens on the right-hand side of the Mobuku, near to Bujongolo. They followed the line of the small torrent, crossing from one bank to the other, and so reached the top of the spin-, and came into a valley formed by a torrent fed from the southern glaciers of Kiyanja. This is the same torrent which forms the picturesque waterfall on the right slope of the plain of Buamba. Close to the liead of the little valley are tA\o projectmg rocks fornnng natTU'al shelters, similar to those of Kichuchu and Buamba. The ground was drenched witli the rain which had fallen during the preceding days, and after an hour's niarcli everyone was wet to the skin, and covered with mud. The marcli was tiring, because at every few steps you slipped or sank into tlie mud. The porters were susj)icious of the unknown country towards which their steps were directed, .■ind proceeded miwillingly, with exaspei'ating slowness. They had stopped 16G THE VALLEY TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. Peaks of the Central Group. twenty minutes after leaving- Bujongolo, and liad inunediatel}' kindled a fire and lit their pipes. After another half- hour's marcli they repeated this performance. When urged to proceed they would answer Ijy pointing to their head, feet, belly or legs, each of wliich portions of their persons seemed to have been suddenly afflicted with painful complaints. To make MT. STANLEY SEE\ FllOM FRESHFIEI.D S COL. things worse, the fog clo.sed in again, and tlie marshy valley was crossed without a glimpse of anything beyond tlie senecios and lobelias ai'ound them, and the moss, nnid ami stones at their feet. The watershed* was at last reached after an easy climb, partlv on the slope and ])artly in a gorge. * Freshfield Pass. 167 Chapter YI. A cold wiud was blo^Yill^• and the porters rushed to iiiid shelter. The height was 14,193 feet above the sea-level. They were above the zone of trees, and there were only mosses, lichens and clumps of everlasting flowers. The wind drove the fog hitlier and thither, opening up glimpses of the countrv now in one direction, now in another. To the north of the col rose the southern ridge of Kiyanja, wide, rounded, and covered on the top by a glacier which falls over to the right and left on the Iavo slopes, and which must have once come down so as to cover the entiie col. The traces are clear on the polished and lined rocks. Southward stands the group of locky peaks which H.R.H. had already observed from the simamit of Kiyanja. Here they saw two small glaciers which till two cols, while a third between them is rockv and free from ice. Four peaks form these cols ; the westernmost and furthest off" appeared to be the highest. At the foot of these peaks, between them and a spur of Kiyanja, lies a valley which slopes down due west. Beyond this sjjur they caught sight of the light reflected on two tiny lakes, which lie at the bottom of another valley running from no]-th to south, starting from the col between Kiyanja and the central group. It was this col wliicli the Duke wished to reach and to make his base for attaining to the highest peaks. While he carefully noted down every detail of the country which -was visible, taking advantage of the rifts in the moving mists, a guide went forward to find out whether it might not be possible to skirt the western slopes of Kiyanja without descending to the bottom of the valley, which would then necessitate reascendrng: to the farther col. The guide now came l)ack and Ijrought news that it would not be possible to skirt tlie mountain because its side 168 LAKE TO THE WEST OF JIT. i;AKEi: — CHARRED SEXECIDS. R5 Ex X Peaks of the Central Group. towards the valley was precipitous. They were therefore oblia:ed to o-o down to the lakes. Soon after midday the little party, leaving a portion of its loads on the col so as to move more rapidly, started afresh, and first skirted the western slope at the same level, very little under the pass but above the forest of senecios, in order to reach the ridge of the south-west spur of Kiyanja. From here they descended towards the Ljwer of the two little lakes. The descent was steep, the mud was slippery, and their way led through a forest of senecios and chunps of helichrysum, which the guides cut and liroke with ])li>ws of their ice-axes to clear a path. There were great smooth .slabs to be avoided, which here and there stuck out of the o-roimd and were too steep to walk upon. The porters kept striking their loads against the low and dense ramifications of the senecios. .slipped on the bio- .stones, .stumbled amoni;- the dead trunks and branches which lav half-buried in the mud, and had to be incessantly encouraged and urged to proceed. They were overhung l)v the precipitous .sides of Kivanja. Avliieh threatened them witli stone falls. As they neared tbe bottom of the valley, they were surprised to find a vast tmct of senecio forest, where the trunks and branches were bare, blackened, and partially carl)onized by recent fire. There was no sign to indicate the passage of man, nor was it probaV)le that the inhabitants of the valleys would have pu.shed .so far up witliout cau.se ; hence it must be supposed tliat the fire was either spontaneous or caused by lightning. The dense mantle of dead leaves which hangs downwards aiound e^•erv branch of the senecio imder the terminal Inmcli of green leaves, and which is one of the chief features in the strange aspect of this curious jilaiit, ofi'ers abundant fuel for fire and is as easy to 171 Chapter VI. kindle as tinder. It niio-ht i)erfectly well be set a])laze merely tlaouoli the heat developed iu fermentation, which must be especially active and energetic in this climate. The fact is interesting were it only to sliow that there must be occasional dry spells of sufficient length to allow of the dead leaves getting dry to a certain extent, for in the soaked state in which they are usually found, it would seem cjuite impossible tliat they sliould provoke a conflagration. Between the Ijlackened skeletons, striplings were already shooting up to replace the ruined forest. The party reached the shore of the first lake towards four o'clock. It was plainly impossible to oblige the porters to proceed on that day. The Duke decided to encamp upon a spur which runs out into the lake, and is about 90 feet high. The level above the sea was 13,271 feet; 810 feet above the camp of Bujongolo. The valley, which up to this pt)int ran due north and south, here turns abruptly to the west, becoming so narrow that the lakelet fills the whole bottom, whicli forms a sort of oval basin resembling a crater at first sioht. A few ducks wander over the water. There were traces of leopards and marmots, and a few crows were flying overhead. There was no other sign of animal life. A little torrent, falling down from the glaciers of Kiyanja, gave abundance of water. There was plenty of wood within reach, and it was soon possible for everyone to dry his garments around a big fire. In the clear fine aftei-noon the little lake, barely ruffled by the breeze, reflected the snowy peaks. The valley was one mass of flowers, and in this peaceful scene they soon forgot the fatigue of the hard day. The sun went down Ijehind a dense layer of clouds, which lay aci'oss the skv to the westwaixl. 172 THE VPPER LAKE IX THE VALLEY TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. Peaks of the Central Group. Presently the sun appeared again below these clouds and lit up the western sky, the ^'alley, and the vast forest of the Congo, which merged in the intense red of the far-off horizon. On the following morning, Laurent Petigax, Brocherel, and three native porters went back to fetcli the loads which liud been left on the ])receding day on the pass when they came up from Bujongold. Tlie otliers set ont on the march carrying the rest. They skirted the two little lakes at the foot of the slopes of Kiyanja, cutting their way step by step through the dense tangle of senecio and lirlichrysum. Between the thickets of sempervivum were found specimens of an exceedingly beautiful large flowering hypericum, together witli ranimculus, several plants of tlie cruciferous family, alchemilla, balsam, robbia, etc. The vallev was narrow and grim, shut in between steep rocks, diver than the Mobuku, and showing many and clear traces of glacier action at a not very remote ])eri()(l. The wliole l)ottom Avas full of moraine rubbish, mingled with detritus, fallen from Kiyanja. Both lakes are of glacial formation. Under the lower lake lies a frontal moraine forming a dam, witli a spur of rounded rock. The two lakes are divided l)y a rocky transversal ridge covered with detritus. Tt) the north of the upper lake lies another moraine forming a steep bank, above which a higii plain slopes upward. Here the valley widens out about two-thirds of a mile. At the toot of Kiyanja is a long neve, formed by avalanches falling over the side. The valley is dominated by the southern peaks of the central group, from wliicli flovr down two glaciers, forming two sources of the torrent ; the third springs from a glacier of Kiyanja. Chapter VI. Camp III was funned at a height of 13,842 feet, ahnost directly under the two peaks of Kiyanja, which the Duke liad ascended six davs hefove. Here also was an abundance of water and of fire-wot»d. HEAD OF THE \'ALLEV TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. From this point the ascent of the col* offered no difficulty. The way followed the ridge of an ancient * Scott Elliot Pass. 176 S I Peaks of the Central Group. median moraine, wliicli shows that at one time the glaciers of Kiyanja joined those of tlie central group ;iiid ran down into the valley together. The senecios and p\ erlasting flowers came nearly n]) to the top of tlie col, growing o-radually less dense. On reaching the top of tlie col, the party followed tiie ridge westward as far as a point near the edge of the o'lacier, whicli runs down to the feet of tiie southernmost peaks of the central group. These peaks form two imposing CAMP l\', CI.OSK To THE KI.K.NA la.AClEli towers of rock. The camp A\as pitched u})on the hroken stones near the glacier at a height of 14.817 feet. There were now rations for one dav onlv. so the whole of the Bakonjo, as well as Lament Petigax and Botta, were sent back to Bujongolo. Jo.seph Petigax, Oilier and Brocherel remained with the Duke. The afternoon was clear and the mountains free from cloud. The camp overlooked the valley with its little blue lake, which liad been seen from the ridge at the top of the 177 N Chapter VI. Mobuku Glaciei-. Kroni tlif ool wliicli tliey bad just traversecb a nearly ])erpeii(Hcular rock wall tails down to this valley on the north. The eve followed the vallev fur a long- distance eastward and saw it turn southward in the distance to join the Molinku. Tims there remained no possible doubt as to this beino- really the Bujuku Valley, and as to the great suowv nioiuitaui to the north l)einu- really tlie Duwoiii of .lohustou. To the south-east the view is shut out by tlie mass of Kiyauja. The u'uides who had elindjed the ulacier to make out the way to the central group returned towards evening. The sun.set was less clear than on the preceding days. The extreme nearness of tlie goal made the forced delay intoleral)le. The Duke, cooped up with the guides in the narrow space of a single tent, passed a great portion of the night in anxious watching, preoccupied by disagreeable doubts as to the weather. Finalh'. the dav dawned on the 18th of June \\"ith a clouded grey sky. They roped together hastily and in silence. Joseph Petigax and ( )llier came tirst, then the Duke, and lastly, Brocherel. 'i'liey heiian the ascent of the iiflacier alono- the way traced l)y the guides on the jj receding day. The great ice plain was reached without difficulty in about one hour. It was ().:!() in the morning, and the peaks whicli they desired to reach stood before them at a very short ilistance. They were both covered with snow, and the .southermnost, which stood nearest to tliem, showed a I'ock precipice on the east side suiinounted by a bi o Peaks of the Coiitial lirou]). tliere were only brief moments wlien the mist would grow slightly thinner, so that thev could just make out the uncertain outline of tlie highest peak. There \\ere only two ways to reach it. They must either descend to the gap and thence attempt to scale tlie ice Avail oyerlumg by the formidable cornice, or they must return to the plateau, cross it mider the col, and ascend by tlie east ridge, a long and indirect way, which would ha\e to l)e done in the fog without any sion to miide tliem. As to the question of giving up the ascent fir that da\' and retmning to camp, a glance at the set determined faces of tlie guides was sufficient to show that such an idea never entered their minds. By nine o'clock tliey could not endure waiting any longer, CI.IMlilNC .VI.E.X.VNDU.V TKAK. and they decided to take tlie mountain by tlie shortest route, which was also the more dangerous, and one after another they started down the slope wliich led to the col. They isi Chapter \'I. proceeded witli tln-ir t'aoes tunit'd to tln^ \v;dl, ]ilaciii<;' tlnMi- feet witli eautiuii in the wide steps wliicli Petigax cut in tlie snow, wliicli was t'ortiuiatelv liard and hore tlieni widl. The col is a narrow strip of ice between two w itle crevasses {liciyscjirtiud) : these crevasses pass fi-oni (inc peak to another without a single bridge. It was inxpo.ssible to turn to the right or to the left ; tliey could only go straight forward to the ice waH. wliich thev could bai'ely make out through the mist. Where the slojje connnenced to become steep they put down the-ir rucksacks and otlier Tuinece.ssary impedimenta, and Petigax set to work again. They soon stood nearly vertically one above the other, climbing slowlv bv tlie steep steps whicli Petigax cut in the ice wall, showering down a hail of snow and ice upon the otliers. Below them the wall was almost immediately swallowed up in tlie mist, so that they seemed suspended over a bottondess aljvss. In tliis way thev reached the V)ottoni of tlie cornice wliere the pendant icicles, joining the njtrigiit ice needles, formed a colonnade as thick as tlie trees in a forest, u])on wliich rested tlie heavy snow-dome wlio.se solidity «'as open to doubt. Tlie effect seen throtigh the mist was strange and weird. In their insecure position, liolding fast to the steep slope, thev had to climb around the ice columns to reach tlie point where the cornice jutted out from tlie ice wall in order to find a pa.s.sage. This passage they found in a cleft of tlie cornice which formed a narrow vertical g-ully some six feet hiuh. ( )llier, standinp- firmly upon a wide step, served as a ladder for Petigax, who climbed on his shoulders and then ujion his head, with his heavy nailed boots, and stuck his ice-axe tirnilv in the snow above the cornice. In this way he hoisted himself on to the top. It was easy enough for the others to join him. The ridge was now 18i' Kt.KNA AMI SAVulA I'KAKS, AS SKEN FKiiM niK STANI.KV (M.ACIKI; Peaks of the Central Group. vauqviished. In a few minutes H.R.H. set foot mion the lii<^liest peak of Ruwenzori. They emerged from the mist into splernhd dear sunlii;iit. At their feet lav a sea of foi:-. An imnenetraljlp laver of li'dit ashy-white cloud-drifts, stretcliini;- as far as the eve L-ould ivacli, was drifting rapidly north-westward. From tlie immense moving surface emerged two fixed points, two pine white jiraks sparkling in the sun with their invriad snow crvstals. These were the two extreme summits of the higliest peaks. 'I'he Duke of the Al)r>izzi named these suimuits Maroherit.i and Alexandra " in order that, inider tlie auspices of these two royal ladies, the memory of the two nations mav lie lianded down to po.sterity — of Italy, whose name was the first to resound on these snows in a sliout of victory, and of England. \\liicli in its marvellous colonial e.xpansion carries ci\'ilization to tlie slopes of these remote mountains."* It was a thrillino' moment when the httle tiicoloui- tlao- given hy H.M. Queen Margherita of Savov. unfurled to the w^ind and sun the eml)roidered letters of its inspiring motto " Ardisc.i e Spero " (Dare and Hope). The wind was hlowing up i-ather fresh from the soiitli-e;ist A\itii a temperature of 2;3 4 F. (Calculations from the olj.serva- tions taken gave a height of 1G.815 feet for Margherita Peak, and 16,749 feet for Alexandra I'eak. It was now 1].:10 a.m. They had taken about half an hour to get down from tlie first peak to the col, and an liom' and ;i-h;ilf to chnih from the col to Peak Margherita. Tliese hours were full () a.m., and worked for a long time at measuring the angles of the peaks and the .salient points of the chain. He set out ayaiii at 9.0 a.m. Drifts of foy were now beginning to invade the scene. They returned to the high glacier-plain and set forth for the two fine rock and ice peaks which stood at its southern extremity. Peaks of the Central Group. Half an liour later they attacked the nearer of the two, starting up a gully <>ii the eastern sidr. Al)(>ut lialf-way up, Avliere it was steepest, they left the snow to elimh on to tlie KLKNA AND SAVOIA I'KAKS Fl!(iM illF. KIIXJE Ai;o\K (AiMT IV. rocks to till" left of the gullv. wliicli were steep and not easv, witli few hand-holds \'ery incon\"enientlv disposed. Then they came l)ack into tlie gullv, and fullnwcd it up tn the top, where there was an uidentation m the iidge. 'I'hrougli tiiis they traversed the west side, facing the Congo, and clinil)ing up easier rocks, reached the suniniit. Here they spent an liour in contemplating the peaks and glaciers which kept appearing and 1S7 Chapter VI. disappeariiig In tlic roiitimial foiiiiatioii aiicl (lissoliitiou of the mists. Towards twelve o'clock thev once more set out. following- the ridire southward. In the narrow indentation between tlie CAMP NEAi; SCOTT ELLIOTS PASS. two points there is a sharp tooth of rock \\itli a precipice which falls down towards the Bujuku Valley. They skirted tliis easily over the snow slopes on the Congo side. From this point, first 188 Peaks uf the Central Group. over a siiowv ridge and tlien over rocks, tliey reached tlie ice- cap which terminates the second peak. The Duke of the Ahruzzi gave the name Elena to the first of tliese two peaks, 1G,388 feet, as a homage to our gracious Queen, and the name of Savoia to the second, 1(3,339 feet. All the four principal jjeaks of the central group had now been ascended. Tiiev could see the camp which thev liad left that verv nnniiing almost vertically imder tlieir feet. Thev could even hear the shouts of the rest of the expedition, who had arrived at the camp from Bujongolo a few hours Ijefore. Towards 2.30 p.m. they began the descent, not returning on their steps, but proceeding southward along the glacier which covers the peak, and then descending the eastern rock wall as far as a wide e'uUv, which broup;ht them back to the p'lacier a little above the camp. A few minutes later the Duke was met with great rejoicing bv his companions, and the whole expedition was now once more united. In the space often days H.R.H. had a.scended Kiyanja and the four ice peaks of the principal group of mountains, had acc(jmplished an extensive triangidation, and identified the position and distribution of tlie several peaks in relation to the chief valleys. The 21st of June was given up to rest. The camp was adorned by clothes drying in the smi on tlie taut cords of the tents, which were now four in numljer. The guides .spent the day in sleep. The afternoon was misty ; higlier tip it was snowing. The silence of tlie mountains reigned around, liroken now and again by tl:e roaring of an ice avalanche fidling into the Bujuku Valley. The dift'erent members of the expedition reportefl what they had done during the last davs. 1S9 diaj)ter \'I. ()i\ the ]5tli ot" JuiK', soon after tlie Duke's (le])aituie. a party of" porters laden with ]>iovisions. including baskets of fowls and a few sheep, had arrived at Bujougolo, and the silent and nearly deserted camp had become suddeuly full of noise. With their lielp, on the 16th Sella and Roccati set out in stairs IVuk. I jrr. i.uKa in savoia sken Fi:nM the sorrii kidge of edwakd i'eak.* their turn for the watershed col, bringing mountain camp equipment and photographic apparatus. They pitched their tents immediately beyond the col on a sloping rock, and made a shelter of tent canvas for the porters. The fog was dense, the wind and cold bitino-. * For note, see following page. 190 Peaks of the Central (in tup. On tlie following day, during some brief openings in tlie fog, Sella photographed views from the e<>l and fioni a rock-point on tlie ridge near the camp. The \-er\- sanip evening the Bakonjos, who had been sent l)ack bv the Duke from Cam}) IV, arrived with Laurent Petigax and Botta. Sella Peak. I Weisniami Peak. .MT. l.lKa III S.\vr)l.\ SEK.N FROM THK si )ITH lUlxa-: uK KHW.Uai I'K.VK.* EvervthiniJ' was frozen and covered witli hoar frost. Tlie natives passed tlie night around a big fire, wrapped in lilaukets and cloaks which Sella and Roccati gave uji to them. The cold was intense, and a thimderstorm was raging. (Jn the followhig day, June 18th, Cagni, who, as we have already said, * The alio\ e illustrations complete one another and form a paiioiania. 191 Chapter VI. liad nnivcd at Rujongolo (in tlie IHtli, and Dr. ( 'avalli joined tlicir CDniradcs on tlip col. Uii the IDtli, ( 'agni and Cavalli with their caravan of porters descended toward the little lakes to the west of Kiyanja. The morning was clear, and the view was open to the westward as far as beyond the Seniliki valley over the forests of the Congo. Sella and Koccati, accordingly, tinned their steps to the niree north of the equator, and about 30° long. E. Greenwich. * According to the map annexed to this volume, Bujongolo is situated at 0° 20' 23" lat. X., and ;!0° 1' 34" long. E. Greenwich. The nnml>eis are a few seconds above those given on the map which accompanies the lecture of H.R.H. before the Italian Geographical Society, and pulilished in Fasc. 2, Part 2, Vol. VIII of the " Bollettiiio," l)ecHUse it was only later that he obtained from the Astronomical Observatory of Greenwich the necessary data for the correction of the lunar tables contained in the ephemerids in order to assign its exact value to the stiaight ascent of the moon. IKS Formation and (xeuei-al Features of Ruwenzori. The general directiou is north and south, and the shape is very nearly that of a ^ratten G. The principal groups would compose the main curve of the G. wliile one group onlv, that farthest south, would represent the tail of the letter. The range consists of six mountains, i.e., groups of peaks witli glaciers, divided from one anotlier l)v cols without snow, and therefore ipiite clearly distinct from (tm^ another. The area actually covered by glaciers is a little more than seven miles long- in a straiffht line from soutli to north, and about four miles wide from east to west. The- lenath of the vvatei'shed ridge, including all the groups, tliat is to sav, tlit^ entire snowv range, is about 11 miles long. The chain begins in the north with two groujis, two parallel snow ridges running nearly due north and south. The eastern- most of these was named by the Duke Mt. Gessi, in memory of the Italian explorer who was the first to circunmavigate Lake Albert. The western group was named Mt. Emin, after Emin Pa.sha, who traversed the Semliki Valley for the first time with Stanley. Mt. Emin joins Mt. Speke, which Ijears tlie name of the first discoverer of the .sources of the Nile in Lake Victoria. After Mt. Speke the chain turns westward, rises to the highest group, rightly called Mt. Stanley, and sweeps around in an eastward curve to the grouj) which bears the name of Baker, the discoverer of Lake Albert, who liad the first glimpse of tlie mountain ranges of Ruwenzori. Last of all, the group to the .soutli of Mt. Baker, which runs from north-east to south-west, had l)een called by H.K.H. Mt. Thomson, in memory of J. Thomson, wliose work in Nigeria is well known. But after his return to Europe the Duke was forced to yield to the proposal of the English Geographical 199 Chapter A' 11. Society, which desired tliat liis own name should he in some way connected witli his discoveries, and that Mt. Thomson should be called Mt. Luigi di Savnia. The name of Thomson has ])een preserved to indicate one of the glaciers of the same OTOlip. MT. STA.MEY FUi OI THE EinVAKn PEAK OF MT. liAKEK. Mt. Stanlev is tlie otoui) which includt-s the hio-hest peaks of all, namely. Margherita (10.815 feet), Alexandra (16,749 feet), Elena (1G,388 feet), and Savoia (1G,339 feet). There is a tiftli ])eak, Moebius, between Elena and Alexandra, and somewhat lower than Savoia, of which tlie lieigiit has not been measured. Tlie so-called " western-most sunnnit " of Mt. Stanley, mentioned by Freshfield,* and visible from Butiti, * See "Geog. Jour.," 29t]i :\rai-di, ]!i07, p. :V_>7. 200 Formation and (leneral Features of Kuwenzori. appearing conspicuously to the viglit of Marglieiitit Peak on the panorama taken by H.R.H. from Mt. Gessi. is not so much a real peak as a projecting shoulder upon tlie north-west ridge of Margherita Peak as maybe clearly seen on the plate facing p. 178. Next in height comes Mt. Speke with its two peaks, Vittorio Emanuele (1(;,()8() feet) and Johnston (15, DOG feet). Mt. Baker follows with Eldward Peak (15,988 feet) anil Semper Peak (15,84?. feet), which were the tirst clinihed hv the NOHTH-WEST S)lori,DER OF M AKi^llKlilTA rE.VK. Duke. To the east of these are Wollaston Peak (15,286 feet), named after Dr. Wollaston, Avho was the first to ascend it, and Moore Peak (15,269 feet). The rockv spur on the ridge at the top of the Mobuku Glacier has preserved the name of Grauer wlio was tlie first to discover it. Of tlie two northernmost groups Mt. Emin mclude.s I'dl Chapter MI. Umberto Peak (15,797 feet)-" and Kraepelin Peak (15,752). Mt. Gessi includes lolauda Peak (15,G47 feet) and Bottego Peak (15,483 feet). Last of i\Jl, Mt. Luigi di Savoia includes the Peaks Weismann (15,299 feet), Sella (15,286 feet) and Stairs (15,059 feet). The rocky point, opposite Bujongolo (14,82G feet), is named after Cagni, who climbed it to complete from it tlie triangulation. The principal glaciers have taken their names from the peaks from wliicli they flow down. The live pa.sses which separate the six groups from one another have been named, proceeding from north to south, Roccati, Cavalli, Stuhlmann, Scott Elliot and Freshfield. They are all above 14,000 feet in lieight, except Stuhlmann's Col between the two jjrincipal groups, Speke and Stanley, whicli is only 13,757 feet high. The Duke of tlie Abruzzi has left the native names used by the Bakonjo to the valleys, lakes, rivers and torrents. When, however, the names were numerous, he took no account of them ; and he also left without name those valleys, lakes and torrents on tlie western slopes wiiich were unknown to the Bakonjo. It i-emains for some future explorer to gather the native names from the western tribes. * Umberto Peak is 1.5,797 feet high and not 15,907 as was printed by error in the map reproduced from that of the Italian Expedition by the Royal Geographical Society, and published with H.K.H.'s London lecture in the "Geographical Journal " for February, 1907. The same map also assigns to Moebius Peak of Stanley an altitude of 16,214 feet. This altitude is merely approximate, because no barometrical observation was taken on Moebius Peak. Also the altitude of Weismann Peak is 15,299 feet and not 15,27.3 feet. I take this opportunity to note that the highest peak of Mt. Baker and the second peak of Mt. Stanley are to be called simply Edward Peak and Alexandra Peak, not King Edwartl and Queen Alexandra ; by analogy with the names Margherita, Yittorio Emanuele, and Elena Peaks, and also with the nomenclature adojited in the neighbouring regions, e.ij., Lake Victoria, Lake Albert, etc. 202 Topographical Skebch oF bheValley System oF the RUWEINZORI RANGE / \ / \ - '^' \. ,\ .^' ^ \ *'\ -,-' \ ) "^^ '\--- ^^!?..- ^v^^ '-^-i iSslr}^M-.ji X: •^-*^, ■*.n-.-. -'-S Scale1278?00 k38m,ies tolincr, I 1)1 ;'.n\u\^5; ■""■, tnv ^,e_f^ y -T^v. Formation and (Jeneral Features of Kuwenzori. The watershed hue starting from the peak to the extreme .south, the Weismauu, runs eastward alono- Mt. Luigi di Savoia, then northwards over Freshtield's Col and along Edward Peak and Semper Peak of Mt. Baker. From this point, making a wide half-circle, it runs along tlie high ridge of the Bujukti Yallev over Scott Elliot's Col, over tlie peaks of Mt. Stanley and Stuhlmann's Col as far as Vittorio Emanuele Peak, tlien descends along the nortli-east ridge of Mt. Speke to Cavalli's Col, traverses the summit of the two parallel groups, Emin and Gessi. cro.ssiug Roccati's Col l)etween them. From lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi it follows a south-easterly ridue to the groujj of the Portal Peaks, whence it turns north-east again. The most important river hasin to the east of the chain is that of the Bujuku Vallev. wliich is sm-rounded hy five mountain liiouns and is fed hy the "leatei' glaciers of Mt. Stanley, Mt. Speke, and Mt. Gessi. The Upper Mobuku Vallev. oil tlip other hand, receive.s only the waters of the Baker glaciers and of a few little glaciers on the eastern side of Mt. Luigi di Savoia through the Mahoma torrent. Hence the MoV)uku River is much smaller than the Bujuku River, and is in reality a mere affluent of it. It would, therefore, be more geographically correct to name the entire valley Bujuku, even if only because the two greater mountains stand at its head as well as Stuhlmann's Col, which is the deepest depression of the whole range and lower than Fre.shfield's Col. The name Mobuku, however, as applied to both river and valley, has lieeii so widely spread by preceding explorers that H.R.H. did not think fit to change it, in order to avoid confusion in the nomenclature. The atmosphere around Ruwenzori is .so misty and .so lacking in transparency, even in fine weather, that tlie Duke 203 Chapter \U. never succeeded in i;ettiiii;- i'loin the peaks a clear view of tlie valleys to tlic west of tlie oliain so as to ohtaiii an aocnrate idea of tlieir direction and distrilmtion. As far as lie was able to observe, lie formed tlie opinion tliat the fonr valleys ninnini^ down from the Cols Freslifield, Scott Elliot, Stnhlmann, and (Aivalli (marked A, B, C, D on the map) joined toi;ether to form the Butagn Vallev, which would consefjuently collect the waters of tlie western glaciers of Mts. Luigi di Savoia, Baker, and Stanley, and a great part of those of the Speke Glacier and of the glaciers of Mt. Emin. Thus this would be the most important of the western valleys. It is probable that Mt. Emin and Mt. Gessi contribute to feed the Russirubi and the Iluame Rivers (E and F of the ma})), which, like the Butagu, are affluents of the Semliki, and that the southern valley, Nyamwamba, runs up as far as the glaciers of Mt. Luigi di Savoia. The torrents Yeria and AVimi would not be fed bv glaciers at all. With tlie help of our precise knowledge of the range we may now^ attempt to collate with one another, and with the data furnished by H.R.H., the discoveries and descriptions of the preceding explorers. Of all these predecessors, Stanley was the one who had the most frequent oj^portunities of seeing either the single peaks or the range from tlie nortli, the west, and the south. He left, however, vague records onlv, and clearlv the reality of the picture has been too greatlv altered bv the illustrator of his book to make it possible to determine the individual moimtalns in his illustrations. At the very most it is possil)le to recognize Margherita Peak and Mt. Speke confused in a single group in the view taken from Kavalli to the north of the mountains, and reproduced on ]>. 1^30 of " In Dai-kest Africa," A^ol. II. -.'04 Forniatiou and (ieneral Features of l»uwenzori. Tilt- mountain of wliicli Stairs caught a glimpse on liis wav \ij) a valley to the uorth-west of the chain, perhaps the liussirubi Valley, was j)ro1)ably Mt. Emin. This mountain is illustrated on p. 256 of the above-mentioned volume, and this view, taken from tlie west, corresponds fairly in appearance to Mt. Eniiu from the east in the photographic panorama taken by H.R.H. from the L)lan(la JVak of :\[t. Gessi. {See illustration, p. 241.) As to the " Saddle Peak " of Staidey, it certainly corresponds to the two peaks Alexandra and Margherita, which stand in a line running north-east to south-west. To any one observing tliem as Stanley did from the north-west or south-east, tliev would appear as twin peaks, whereas one would be liidden bv the other if the observer .stood in a line with them. More exact accounts of the chain have been given to us bv Stuhlmann. The more or less schematic illustration of the chain, as seen from the southern part of the Semliki Valley to the south-west of the great peaks, and reproduced on p. 281 of Stuhhnann's book,* can easily be identified on the map of H. H.H. There is no doubt that the central and m-eatest mountain group given bv Stuhlmann under the name '"Semper" is to be identified with the Mt. Stanley ; hence, the two moun- tains to its rioht. designated bv Stuhlmann with the names Weismann and Moebius, cannot be anvthing but Mt. Baker and Mt. Luio-i di Savoia. As to the momitain called ])v Stuhlmann Kraepelin, whose summits are liarely visible at a considerable distance from Semper, this must be Mt. Emin. From Stuhhnann's point of observation, Mt. Speke must have been hidden by Mt. Stanlev, or only partly visil)le, and easily con- founded with it. This fact, namely, the omission of Mt. Speke * Dr. F. Stuhlmann, " ,Mit Emin Pasha in.s Herz von Africa." Berlin, 1894. 205 Chai)ter VII. from Stulilniaim's diagram, became later on. as we sliall see, one of the chief causes of confusion in the attempt to colkte the view of the chain from the east with Stulihnanu's description of the chain as seen fmni the west. E^^S ^' ■>■ ' '■ •^^^"- -'. >n'. SI'AXl.EV FllOM THE WEST, ElluM A I'lH iTi MaiAI'lI TAKKN IN THE BUTAtir VALLEY 1!Y PK. F. STllILMANN. By the kind permission uf Dr. Stulihnann and liis puhhshers we are able to reproduce the very interesting and fine engraving which faces p. 188 of his hook, and was made from a })hoto- graph which he took from the highest point reached hy him in the Bntaa'U Vallev, a hill 13.32G feet al)ove the sea. and separated from the glaciers by a depression containing a littlt^ lake. In the seipiel, we shall hear of the excursit)n made liy Sella on the glaciers of the western slojje, descending from the col in tiie centre of Mt. Stanley between Moebins Peak and Alexandra Peak. In the cour.se of this exciu-sion he was able 206 Fonnation and General Features of Ruwenzori. iii'ii. to take several photographs from the western slopes, \v\ wlieu compared with this plate of Stuhlinaiui's l)ook, lea\c no doul)t as to its I'epresenting the western slopes of Mt. Stanley. It shows, proceeding from left to right, the long snowy ridoe which forms the characteristic north-western slioulder of Margherita Peak, winch is hidden behind tlie vast cone of Alexandra Peak. Vertically below the lidge to the riiiiit of Alexandra WESTERN sn)E OF ALEXANDKA I'KAK. Peak, at the foot of the glacier, may l)e seen a sharji, rocky ]K)int, which was climbed by Sella in tlie course of his photographic expedition. Alexandra Peak is succeeded in this 207 Chapter VII. ])late by Moebiiis Peak, then Elena Peak and Su\oia Peak, with the little tooth of rock l)etweeii them, which is also clearly visible tVoiii the east. With relation to tlie point reached by Stuhhnann, and from whieh this })liotoi;-raph was taken, Brix Forstei\ in an article* in which he attempts to collate the preceding explorations of Kuwenzori with that of the Duke of the Abruzzi, is of opinion that this point was near the little lakes to the west of Mt. Baker, in siyiit of the vallev traversed by the Italian expedition to climl) to Scott Elliot's (Jol. A mere glance at tlie map makes it MOEBIUS I'EAK FliOJI TIU': WEST. quite })lain that it was impossible that from anv point situated so far to the south of Mt. Stardey the jjeaks should appear as they do in Stuhlmann's photograph. (Jn the other hand, it is pi'obable that the little lake Kige.s.si-Kis.songo, which Stuhlmann saw between himself and the mountains was one of those drawn in the map to the west of Mt. Stanley under * See in "(Jlobus," Vol. XCI, 1907, p. 34.5. 208 Formation and General Features of Kuwenzori. Point Moebius. In feet, looking from this point towunis tin- chain, Alexandra Peak must have nearly enthelv covered Margherita Peak, while the Moebius, Elena and iSavoia Peaks must have been visible nearly straight in front, as they are shown in the plate. Brlx Ftirsters article contains other inaccuracies. From the upper valley of Butagu, Stuhlmann saw no other mountains beyond the two photographed liv him, nor is there any mention in his l)i)ok of a third mountain lirvond. of whicli lie had cauglit any glimpse in tlie ()|»euing between THE FOOT OF THE GI-AITERS FEOWIXG WEST OF ALEXANDK.A. AXD MOEBIUS PEAKS. the two. The interpretation of Moore's ascent is entirely erroneous, nor did Moore see from tlie ridge the other momitain groups, as the author states. The \alley ascended by David could not be the Russurubi, for the Russurubi does not lead to any col near 16,000 feet. Finally, Brix For.ster is mistaken in wi'itiug that Dr. WoUaston ascended the Semper Peak of Mt. Baker. He also states in his article that the highest peaks of Ruwenzori are rocky. 209 p Chapter VII. We aie able also to reproduce Stuhlmanu's ])hotogTaph from the same point of another moinitain which he believed to be adjacent to, and to the south of Mt. Stanley, the mountain which he had called Weismann and which, as we have seen, corresponds to Mt. Baker. In reality, this MOUNT LUIGI DI SAVOIA SEEN FROJI THE UPPER BUTAGU VALLEY. (After Ihc jihotoijritphfii/ Dr. F. Sh'hljiititiii.) mountain was completely hidden fn)m his sight by the southern spurs of Mt. Stanley, and the mountain in his plate must be the Mt. Luigi di Savoia, the very same which he had called Moebius. The first description of the appearance of the mountains from the east is given by Moore, who seems to have been the only one before H.R.H. to have seen the mountains from the Wimi Valley. Moore had, however, a far better opportimity for obsei'vation because, being obliged to descend towards the L'lO Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. plain, and to go further from tlie moimtains to seek for a ford across the River Wimi, which was swdllfii. he was able to see the entire chain, not only the single mountains. This view is reproduced in a plate in colours placed opposite the frontispiece of his book.* This plate contains in the middle, and plainly recognizable, Mt. Stanley and Mt. Speke. To their left stretches a snowy ridge of tmcertain outline and long enough to comprise the peaks of Mt. Baker and those of Mt. Luigi di Savoia. To the right, separated from Mt. Speke by a wide interval, is another sno'.v peak, Mt. Gessi. On reaching the Moljuku Vallev and ascendinjr it as far as SAVOIA PEAK TAKEN EKOII AI.E.XANDUA I'EAK : MT. I.IIGI DI SAVOIA IN THE lUCKGKorND. Bujougolo, where he established his first camp, Moore fell into an error, which was subsequently shared Ijy all liis successors from Sir Harry John.ston to Dr. Wollaston, and which became the chief cause of the uncertainty which reigned u|) to the Duke's exploration as to the position of the peaks. This error * J. E. S. Moore, "To the Moimtains of the Moon," Lon■ 7J-i^^. = s ^ = ^ — , r-. •'; rt H^ r* "^ X I~ X C5 C H h- fe pq = a '^ i P- i £ ? bJ-h^^'S ^ X ~ = - .3 s r. s :5 w X rg sq N ^ N CO -* iO ?; lij £ --is 5 6'='= Formation and General Features of Jtuwenzori. Lower Mobuku Valley he saw a great snowy mountain which he named Duwoni. He gives a fine illustration of this moun- tain on p. 158 of his book. There is no doubt that this is to be identified with Mt. Speke. On reacliing Bujongolo he believed himself to have reached the foot of tliis same Duwoni, Avhereas in reality he had been going fmther from it from Nakitawa (juward. He furthermore believed that Mt. Kiyanja (Baker) was Mt. Semper of Stuhlmaini, and that Duwoni (Speke) was Peak Weismann. Mr. Freshfield, as well as the Duke, was able to have a complete view of the range from Butiti, on the way between Entebbe and Fort Portal. He enumerates '"' the mountains of Ruwenzori as follows, from left to right : — 1st, a massive rocky group with patches of snow, which he calls South Peak, and which is Mt. Luigi di Savoia ; 2nd, a wide col, which is the col above the Mobuku Valley whicli now bears his name ; 3rd, a bold peak of rock and glacier, the Kiyanja of Johnston ; 4th, the undulating ridge covered with orjacier which from this last group leads to the highest snow peak, and wliicli Mr. Freshfield takes to be the Duwoni of Johnston, but wliich is in reality Maigherita Peak. Duwoni or Speke, as a matter of fact, does not appear as an isolated mountain when seen from Butiti, biit seems to form a single group with Mt. Stanley. It may be of use to the reader at this point to compare Mr. Freshfield's description with the outline of the range as seen from Butiti, taken from Sella's tele-photograph, and with the addition of the new names. On reaching the head of the Mobuku Valley, Mr. Freshfield would appear to have fallen into the same error as his predecessors, for he describes it as * D. W. Freshfield, 'A note on the Ruwenzori Group,' "The Geographical Journal," -May, 1906, Vol. XXVIl, p. 481. 215 Chapter VII. " enclosed in a circjue of cliflfe capped by glaciers, which flow from a iidve rising in comparatively gentle slopes to an icy ridge connecting two rock peaks, Kiyanja and Johnston's Duwoni." * Mr. Freshfield's poor opinion of the glaciers and of the general importance of the chain is a natural result of his belief that " the only glacier basin of any size east of the chain is that of Mobuku."t It now remains for us to consider the ascents performed by the members of the British Museum Expedition, and more especially by tlie mountaineer, A. F. WoUaston. Lake Bujuku seems to have been seen for the first time by Woosnam in the excursion which he made alone to the ridge overhanging the Mobuku Glacier. Mr. Woosnam, as well as Mr. Wollaston, believed, however, with Dr. Grauer, that this was the water- shed. Hence Mr. Wollaston naturally concluded tliat the mountains which he had caught a glimpse of beyond it, Mt. Stanley and Mt. Speke, were on the western slopes of the chain. It was only later, after meeting H.R.H. at Fort Portal, that Mr. Wollaston, while crossing the foot of the Mobuku Valley, and seeing the outline of the peaks to the west, finally understood that their eastern slopes do i-eally form part of the Uganda side of the I'ange. I must here mention the interesting article of Lieutenant T. T. Behrens.J who has attempted to reconstruct the chain of Ruwenzori witli the whole illustrative and descriptive material from Stanley to Wollaston which existed in July, 1906, including the observations taken by the author during nine * D. W. Freshfield, in "Alpine Journal," August, 1906, p. 183. t D. W. Freshfield, in "Alpine Journal," August, 1906, p. 201. I Lieutenant T. T. Behrens, ' The Snow Peaks of Kuwenzori,' " The Geographical Journal," July, 1906, Vol. XXVIll, p. 43. 216 Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. months of residence in the regions close to the cliain during the work of the Anglo-German Boundary Commission. Behren's article contains in clear and succinct shape the net result of all that Avas known ahout Ruwenzori previous to the Italian Expedition. The following table, in wliich the names given to the mountains by different travellers are placed in order Avith reference to those marked upon the Italian map, illustrates the confusion whicli liad arisen from mistaken identification of peaks from various points of observation. This table will make it easier to compare the accounts of all the previous journeys. It will also show that the only way to put order and clearness into the nomeuclatm-e was to give up the old names and start afresh with a different plan. As regards the altitude of the highest point as determined by the Duke at 16,815 feet, it would be idle now to gather together the opinions of preceding explorers Avhich were not based upon any instrumental observation ; all the more so that only one of them, Stuhlmann, really had a near sight of the highest peaks, or at least of Alexandra Peak. The others all judged of the height of the peaks around the head of the Mobuku Valley, and never even saw the highest ones, or only from the far-oft' plains of the surrounding country. The Duke took for the first base of his calculations the meteorological station of Entebbe, whose heiglit was already known (3,861 feet). Fort Portal was then connected with Entebbe by a series of observations caiiied out for two A\-liole months at the two stations, and giving as a result for Fort Portal an altitude of 1,165 feet above Entebbe, or 5,026 feet above the sea-level. Finally, Bujongolo was connected with Fort Portal by barometrical observations taken during a period of about a ■211 Chapter MI. Thk Nomenclature of Kuwenzori and the H.R.H. the Duke of the Abiuzzi. F. Stuhhiiaiin. J. E. S. Moore. Mt. Lui"i di Savoia. From Lungwe From the From the From (Seuiliki). Butagu Valley. ' Eastern Plain. Bujongolo. Moebius. Weismann or Nffemwimbi. f Edward and Sem- I per Peaks. I Weismann or ^ Ngemwimbi. Ingomwimbi. Moebius. Wollastou and Moore Peaks. Kanyan- gogwe. f Savoia and Elena Peaks. m 1 ^ I Alexandra and L Marsrherita Peaks Semper or Kanjan- gungwe. Mt. Speke. Semper or Kanjan- gungwe. Ingomwimlii. Kangan- gogwe. Mt. Emiu. Kraepelin. Mt. Gessi. Saddle Moun- tain (of Stanley). 218 Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. Errors in the Identification of the Peaks. Sir Harry Jolinston. Figurative Scheme. From tlie Moljuku Valley. D. W. Freshtifkl. From Butiti. From Biijongolo. A. F. Wollaston. from Bujongolo. South Peak. Kiyanja. ! f- Kivanja. I Kiyanja. Duwoni (from Bujongolo). Duwoui. Kiyanja 1" (Semper of I StHhluiann). Duwoni (Semper of Stuhlmaun). Kiyanja. I)u\voni, Duwoni (Weismann of Stuhlmann). Duwoni (from the lower valley). Saddle Mt. (?) 219 Chapter VII. month, from the 16th of June to the 12th of July. In this way the altitude of Bujongolo was established at 7,435 feet above Fort Portal, consequently 12,461 feet above the sea-level. The observations taken in the valleys and on the peaks with the inercurial barometer, or in places of secondary importance with the aneroid, were then referred to this base. A third base of less value, because the observations there were not taken during so long a period as at Bujongolo, is Ibanda in the Lower Mobuku Valley. t)nly one of the measurements of altitude refers to this as its base point, namely, that of the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi, which was also taken with the lioiling- point thermometer because the barometer was broken. To estimate the approximation to the actual truth, which may be attained by measuring heights merely by direct obser- vation of atmospheric pressiu-e, by means of the boiling point of water (hypsometer), or Ijy the aneroid barometer, it will suffice to compare some results obtained by this simple method with the corresponding measurements as taken by the Duke and calculated with all the corrections fvn-nished by a base station. Locality. Grauer, Teg art, and Maddox. Wollaston. H.R.H. Observations referred to a base station. Hypsometer. Aneroid. Hypsometer. Mercurial Bar. Fort Portal 5,200 — — 5,027 Bihunga ... 6,978 6,700 — 6,300 Kichuchu 9,869 9,600 — 9,833 Bujongolo 12,481 12,300-12,500 12,660 12,461 Camp Grauer 13,303 1.3,100 — 13,229 Grauer Rock 14,9.56 19,030 — 14,813 Wollaston I'eak . . . — — 15,893 15,286 220 Formation and General Features of Euwenzoii. By far the most interesting altimetric observations are tlmse which were taken by Lieutenant T. T. Belirens in 1903 during the Anglo-German frontier delimitation. He then fixed trigonometrically the height of the two peaks which appeared to be the highest, as well as of four other points. It was, however, only after tlie publication of the Italian map that he was able to identify witli certainty the position of these peaks, and hence to obtain all the data for an exact calculation of the altitudes on the basis of the angles taken. It is worth while to compare his results with those of H.Ii.H. Height in Feet above the Level of the Sea. Ifamo of Peak. Lieut. T. T. Behrens. Trigonoiuetric Value. H.R.H. Barometric Value. Difference, Trigonometric minus Barometric. Margherita Feet. 16,619 Feet. 16,815 -196 Alexandra 16,5-i.-5 16,7-49 -206 Edward 15,74S 15,988 -240 Vittorio Emaiiuele 15,846 16,080 -234 Umberto 1.5,554 15,798 -244 lolanda 15,258 15,647 -389 This is not the place to discuss the relative value of the two series of numbers. In Appendix B, Prof Omodei gives in extenso all the data of H.R.H.'s observations, and a critical expose of the methods adopted, and of the precautions taken in calculatinp' the altitudes. Dr. A. Roccati has written a detailed account of the geology and mineralogv of Ruwenzori, which is published in the volume 221 Chapter VII. coutaining the work done by the Italian expedition in diftprent branches of natural science.* Like Stuhhnann and Scott Elliot, he absolutely excludes all possibility of a volcanic origin for the chain. There is SENECIO AND HELICHRYSUM IX THE UPl'ER liUT.A.(iU VAl.I.EY. only one circumscribed point of the whole region explored, namely, the rock wall which forms the shelter of Kichuchu, where a formation of a volcanic nature exists, consisting of veins of basalt enclosed in a wall of gneiss. The inclination of strata is often very marked, reaching at times an angle of over 60°, and is, as a rule, tiu-ned eastward *Appendix D contains a short resume by Dr. Eoccati of the geology of the 922 Formation and General Features of Runenzori. and south-eastward on the eastern part of the chain, southward on the southern part, and south-westward on the western part so as to form a tectonic semi-elhpse. Resuming in its main oTithnes the origin t)f tlie group of mountains and of the high peaks of its central portion, we may ascribe it to three causes, geotectonic, stratigraphic and lithologic, namely : — ■ 1. The upheaval en hloc of a whole portion of the archaean rocks of Central Africa with a main slope for the rise from west to east. This rise is mainly In relation to the gigantic western fracture, with its relative vertical displacements, which originated the Semliki Valley, and also with otlier fractures which have taken place to the east of the group, and which are marked by a series of recent volcanoes like those of the Province of the Toro District. 2. To a marked elevation — ellipsoid or anticlinal, with general direction from north to south, and strata more or less considerably uplifted in the Ruwenzori group. 3. To the existence in tlie central region of a group of rocks which have resisted tlie physico-chemical action of external agents (amphibolite, diorite, diabasis, amphibolic gneiss), whereas the gneiss-rocks and mica-schists of the lower zone oppose far less resistance to such agents. To these main causes we may add the probable existence of internal fractures in the group, with a main direction from north to south, which would have contributed to the isolation of the several groups. An important geological feature of Ruwenzori is the vast development of the glaciers diu-ing the glacial period. The proofs of this are manifest, especially at Nakitawa. At one time the valleys of the Mahoma, of the Mobuku and of tlie Bujuku were tilled with large glaciers Chapter VII. which met below Nakltawa and flowed down to a point beyond Bihunga. In this way also, on the western slope, the Savoia, Elena and Semper Glaciers must have entered into the hollow formed between the groups Stanley, Baker and Luigi di Savoia, LOBELIA DECKEM, HE.NECIO AND TUEE-HEATHS. and probably joined the Edward Glacier. It is not possible to state exactly down to what point tlie glaciers liad reached in that direction, as the valleys to tlie west of the chain were not explored. 22-t Formation and General Features of liuwenzori. To-day the glaciers are of small extent and diminishing. This is proved at some points by the presence of moraines recently abandoned only a few hundred yards from the actual glacier snout, and from the freshness of the marks of polishing by ice on the rocks close to nearly all the glaciers. Tliere are no glaciers of the first degree in tlie principal valleys, but only secondary glaciers in tlie upper part of the moimtains and in the main gorges, not, however, in the nature of mere hanging glaciers, but true glaciers. Unlike our own Alps, there are no real basins, Ijut merely a sort of glacier caps from which ice digitations flow down at divers points. In other words, we have on the higher groups of Ruwenzori glacier formations which remind us of the Scandinavian tvpe and which liave been called tropical glaciers. The Moore and Semper Glaciers flow fin-ther down than any — the former as low as 13,690 feet, and the latter as far as 14,000 feet. The largest glaciers are on tlie Stanley, Speke and Baker groups, and on the eastern sides of the Gessi group. The smaller ones are upon the Emin and tlie Lnigi di Savoia groups, unless these latter have important glaciers to the north of the one and the south of the otlier ^\■here thev were not explored by the expedition. A characteristic feature of the high ridges, and more especially of the snowy ridges around Alexandra and Margherita Peaks, are the enormous cornices, wliich from a distance appear to be inaccessible, and have a totally diflerent appear- ance to those of the Alps and of the Caucasus. Rapid and frequent changes in temperatin-e, falling from se\-eral degrees above to several degrees below the freezing point, create an incessant alternation of frost and thaw, and give rise to the formation of an innuense number of stalactites imder these 22.5 Q Chapter VII. coi-iiices, \vhieh are so intricate and so situated in relation to ouB another as to form a real scaffolding to support the ice- dome, which is usually of a spongv consistency and (piite light. LOBELIA L\ FLOWER. Thus on Ruwenzori the coi-nices are far more solid and safe than in the Alps, and, in spite of tlieir numlier and extent, there ^vas no yisible sign of a recent collapse at any point. 22G Formation and General Features of liuwcnzoi-i. The snow-limit may be calculated as between 14,7()(t and 14,800 feet; in other words, at about the same level whieh is reached by the lower extremity of most glaciers. Towards 14,000 feet the rain always turns into snow. There is not, perhaps, an ab.solute predominance of any one wind throughout the chain. It is, at least, quite certain that fog, snow, and hail are extremely frecjuent and common to all the winds, so tluit all forecasts are vain. Fine and bad weather may alternate several times in a few hours, and in so ca))iicious a maimer as not to appear subject to anv law. Only in the early morning hours there .seems to be a somewhat greater 2-)robability of a clear sky. The bad weather is frequently violent, and accompanied bv strong wind, lightning and thunder, even in the highest regions. J^ear Alexandra Peak and on Edward and Sella Peaks the rocks bear witness to the violence of the.se storms bv the innumerable fultjurites with which thev are riddled. No conclusions as to the best season for visitin"- Kuwenzori can be drawn from the experiences of tlie Italian expedition. During June liad weather certainly predominated. The longest dry spell was in the .second week of .Tulv. After this period the expedition began to withdraw froni the higher valleys and peaks, to which the rains and fogs seem to he .strictlv limited. Indeed, on their return to Fort Portal they le;irned from the resident missionaries that during those two months no rain had fallen there. The valleys of Ruwenzori are often divided into natural terraces produced by the formation of layers of strata above the ridges of hard rock, which at an earlier period dammed uj) these valleys in places, thus creating lake basins which liave sub.sequently silted up with alluvial deposit, of which the 227 y 2 Chapter VII. present marshy levels are the result. Lake Biijuku is a survival of one of these ancient basins. In the Mobuku and Bujuku Valleys towards 10,000 feet the damp and mild climate specially favours the development of SEXECIO AND LOBELIA STUHLMAX.NL lycopodium, mosses, and lichens which clothe the sides and bottoms of the valleys, and cover the trunks of the living trees or of those that have flillen from old age. At this height the valleys are clad with a dense forest of heaths and 228 IX THE SEN EC 10 FOREST Formation and General Features of Ttuwenzori. of bamboos, with brambles, orchids and ferns, in whose shade grow violets, ranunculi, yenuiium, epilobium, tliistles, and umbelliferous plants. Towards 11,500 feet a certain number of the aromatic plants, which had formed a large part of the underwood, cease, and among the trees only the heaths, lobelias, and senecios remain, while the ferns become prominent, and the lycopodium, mosses, and lichens develop to an inordinate degree. This development reaches its maximum at about 12,500 feet, a little before the point where the heaths stop altogether, beyond which remain only senecios, lobelia, reeds, mosses, and lichens. Here the helichrysum, or everlasting flower, which had already been noticed at about 11,500 feet, forms dense thickets, which reach up to the glaciers together with the senecios, and is the last form of shrubby vegetation. Among the numerous specimens of helichrysum and senecio brought home by the expedition, there were several new species. Mention should be made hei'e of a fine and rare tree found at Bujongolo, belonging to the family Ericaceae, and the genus Philippia. On the peaks are seen mosses, lichens, a few rare graminacese and a few dwarf phanerogams which remind one of the characteristic vegetation of our own Alps. At and above 16,000 feet the rocks are bare. The expedition had not proposed to itself the task of making special and minute researches regarding tlie fauna of the region. So far, however, as was possible, in spite of the rapidity of the marches and tlie unfavourable circumstances, as many animal specimens as possible were collected, and to these were added large collections made for the expedition by the Catholic missionaries. As they ascended the Mobuku Valley the faiuia became less 229 Chapter VII. and less aliundant, wliile al)t)ve Bujongolo iiothiiii;' was found except leopards, rats, bats, a few crows, hawks, hirds of the sparrow family, insects and worms. Upon the peaks were foimd worms, neuroptera and diptera. The botanical and zoological collections offered abundant material, comprising many species Avhich Avere either new or interesting from other points of view, and which have been amply described and illustrated in the volume of special studies upon Ruwenzori. We have now glanced cursorily at the principal results of the Italian expedition — results implying sustained effort, owing to the extreme shortness of their sojourn in tlie mountains. Having thus briefly reviewed the chief features of the region, we may once more take up oiu' narrative. ii30 CHAPTER VIII. Exploration of Mt. Speke and Mt. Emin. The Descent into the Bujuku Valley — Stuhlmann's Col — Western Slopes of -Mt. Speke— Ascent of Vittorio Emanuele Peak — Storm and P^lectrical Phenomena upon the Peak — Two Days' Bad Weather — Glacier Torrents of Kuwenzori — The Duke reaseends Vittorio Emanuele Peak — Crossing the Western Valleys — Camp at the Foot of Mt. P>nin — Ascent of Umlierto Peak — Return to Bujongolo — Thi-ee Days' Marcli through the liain — licLapitulatiuii of the woik done. We left off the iiaiTiitive at the point when the expedition liad assembled in (Jamp IV, above Scott Elliot Col, near the Elena Glacier of Mt. Stanley, on the I'lst of June. On the followino; morninir, June 22nd, the Duke once more prepared to leave his companions and jiursne the exploration of the eliain, directing his steps towards tlie northern groups. Some days before, from the summit of Alexandra Peak, he bad been able to ascertain that the most convenient and the shortest route to Mt Speke and Mt. Emin lay along their western slopes, which could be easily reached by crcssing the Up}>er Bujuku Vallev and Stuhlmaim's Col, •23i Chapter Vlll. CAMl' IV, CLOSE TO THE ELENA GLACIER. which Hes between Mt. Speke and Mt. Stanley. The Duke was accompanied by the guides Joseph and Laui"ent Petigax, < )lHer and five Bakonjo porters. The northern wall of the Scott Elliot Col, as has already been stated, forms a precipice overhanging Lake Bujnku. After a short descent between great blocks of I'ock covered with the visual mosses and lichens, the party entered a narrow gorge and then a nearly perpendicular gully full of detritus. The loaded natives, little used to the precautions which are necessary under these circumstances, trod carelessly upon the stones and set them rolling, to the serious risk of those who were ahead. It was necessary to descend slowly, with great caution, and quite close together. The natives had by this time accjuired somewhat greater •232 Exploration of ]\Il. Speke and ]\It. Emin. confidence in tlieir leaders, and followed them with a better will. The guides helped them at all the difficult points and the caravan was once more in good spirits. At the foot of this gully they again entered the senecio forest, through which they descended by a gentler slope obliquely towards the bottom of the valley, where they found a treeless, marshy tract (12,904 feet). This they reached after two and a-half hours' march, crossing the torrent above Lake Bujuku. The usual obstinate fog enveloped the \vhole valley. From this point they began to ascend by a moderate slope directly towards the southern face of Mt. Speke. About 300 feet higher up, they came across a neve formed by avalanches at the foot of the rock wall, which was covered above by a glacier broken up into s^racs, and, as it were, suspended over the valley. Skirting round the neve to the left they continued to ascend, directing their steps to a point where the south-west I'idge of Mt. Speke joins Stuhlmann's ■Col to the north of a rocky spur clearly visible in the middle of the col. The last bit of way at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, overhung by the tei'minal sdracs of the glacier, is exposed to the dans^er of stones falling from above. The ascent is easy but fatiguing on account of tlie slippery rocks covered with moss. By the time they reached the watershed, a fine warm sun had dissipated the fog, and they stopped for a while to enjoy the fine view over the upper amphitheatre of the Bujuku Valley. It is completely surrounded by precipitous cliffs. Only vmder Margherita and Alexandra Peaks the gentler slo})e allows the glacier to descend to a lower level, but all the rest of the circle of glaciers stops short at the brow of the cliffs. Now and then the roar ot the avalanches of seracs may be 233 Chapter VIII. heard as they crash down into the valley. The rocky Inittresses ol' Elena and Savoia Peaks, and the precipitous clifis of the north face of Mount Baker, overtopped towards the east by Moore and Wollaston Peaks, are especially grand. After skirting the foot of the south-west ridge of Mt. Speke, they pursued their way nearly on a level under the western cliif, keeping high and not far from the glacier. This glacier lias withdrawn recently, leaving a long fringe of rocks and moraine detritus, under which a few senecios and groujjs of helichrysmn have taken root. A little further on, the tent was pitched on a narrow strip of land between two oval lakes and the margin of the Speke Glacier. This is Camp V, at a height of 14,682 feet above the sea-level, immediately under Vittorio Emanuele Peak. There were only a few senecios at this point, and the natives sought for shelter lower down, A\here there was abundance of wood. The sky Avas clear overhead, l)ut round the peaks and in the valleys lingered fogs, which hid the greater part of the landscape. A little fiu'ther and lower down was a third lake, somewhat larger than the tAvo which were near the camp. On the next day, first climbing the rocks and then up the glacier, following an easy western ridge, without once using the rope, in a little more than an hoiu' they reached the summit of Vittorio Emanuele Peak, 16,080 feet above the sea-level. It was 6.30 in the morning and they were already sunounded by dense fog. They I'emained nearly eight liovu's on the summit in vain expectation of an opening in the fog, wliich never came. There was a light, variable wind, and every now and then a snowfall, changing occasionally into bi^ief and violent showers of hail. At one time they were enveloped in a cloud so charged with 234 SEA'ECIO FOREST TO THE WEST OF FRESHFIELD COL SAVOIA PEAK IX THE DISTAXCE Exploration of .Alt. Speke and ]\It. Eiiiin. electricity that tiny discharges began to crackle iipon their ice-axes, their tripofl, and their barometer. Even tlieir hair MI. ^I'EKE .sKEN FllU.M THE .SENECIO FuUEST AT THE FOOT OF SCOTT Elliot's col. crackled upon their heads. It was a disagreeable situation, and by no means without danger. To kill time, tliey built a big stone man on a point of rock to the north-west, a little below the .snow peak. In the 235 Chapter MIL afternoon they went down to the camp, as the weather was getting M'orse. The day had been completely wasted as far as exploring work was concerned. The 24th and the 25th of Jnne were spent in a dense fog, with alternations of rain, snow, and hail. The guides set out on a short excursion to endeavour to find the way to Mt. Emin across the valleys which run down to the north-west of Mt. Speke. On the 25th, H.R.H. attempted to proceed, l)ut was very soon forced to return, the fog being so dense that it seemed like night. During these two days of oljligatory rest, the Duke was able to observe in the little torrents which flow down from the Speke Glacier the periodic oscillations of volume, ranging from a minimum in the morning to a maximum in the evening, which are characteristic of torrents produced by the melting of ice. There would be no reason to comment upon this fact were it not that Mr. Freshfield was led, from observation of the small dimensions of the Mobuku torrent where it springs from the glacier, and from the limpidity of its waters, to conclude that it rather originated from a spring mider the glacier tlian from actual melting of the ice. This view fits in with Mr. Freshfield's general theory that tropical glaciers are consumed chiefly by evaporation, and in a minor degree only by melting. Whatever may be the con- ditions in the Himalayas, there can be no doubt that in this respect the glaciers of Ruwenzori resemble those of our own Alps, and that thev all give rise to torrents flowing from their ■extreme end with all the characteristic features of glacier torrents. As a matter of fact, the climate of Ruwenzori is very little tropical in its nature, and it ^\-ould seem that a condition -of atmosphere so saturated with moisture as to render the ■236 Exploration of Mt. Speke and ]\It. Emin. mists nearly permanent could hardly cause so rapid an evapora- tion as alone to account for the very considerable waste of the glaciers. The limpidity of the waters of torrents which spring from certain glaciers of Ruwenzori may, in all probahilitv, be ascribed to the almost complete immobility of the glaciers themselves, owing to which they grind no detritus from the rocks that form their beds. As was mentioned in the preceding chapter, these glaciers are in the form of ice-caps on the summits and ridges rather than of true streams of ice flowing from nevds, as is the case in our own Alps. Fully to estimate, however, the importance of the Ruwenzori chain in feeding the Nile, we mu.st take into account not so much the glaciers as the entire mountain range, whose highest peaks soar up into the colder strata of the air, and gather to themselves and precipitate in rain and snow the mass of vapours drawn up from the vast plains below, while the network of valleys form great basins to collect the water thus gathered. The reader will remember that on the western and southern slopes alone Stanley counted sixty-two torrents flowing from the mountains into the Semliki River and into Lake Albert Edward. On the evening of the 25th of June the scene changed rapidly. The Avhole sky cleared up, and a marvellous sunset kindled the whole valley and the far-ofi" forest of the Congo into flaming red. The foUowino: night was bitterly cold. On the morning of the 26th, the Duke and the guides were on their way by four o'clock. The frost was hard and all the water frozen, even the little lake was nearly completely covered with ice. The hard snow gave a good foothold upon the glacier. By a quarter past five they were once more on the summit of Vittorio 237 riinpter VTTT. Emamiele Peak. A cold wind was Ijlowinj;' tVoiu the nortli- M^est. In the alisoliitelv clear and transparent air the outlines ■of the peaks stood out distinctly Tipon the sky. The weather was capital for topographical \\'ork. ^'itt^l^iu Emamielp Pt-ak. .Itihnstim Peak. I JIT. Sl'KKK FKIIM TIIK STAXr.EY Pr..VTE,\l'. Vittorio Emannele Peak is situated nearly in the centre of the vast circle upon which are distributed the mountains and glaciers of Ruwenzori, and is without doubt the best point of observation of the whole range. Northward from the peak runs the long ice ridge which presently dips to the Cavalli Pass, and thence rises again to the LTmberto Peak of Mt. Emin. A deep gorge between precipitous clifis, rininiiig from north to south, divides Mt. Emin from Mt. Gessi. The two peaks of Mt. Gessi, lolanda and Bottego are clearly visible at the 238 < =1, 1^ Exploration of Mt. Speke and Mt. Emin. extreme end of the terminal snow ridge. To the south-west rises the mighty mass of Mt. Stanley with its five peaks, of which the Alexandra Peak is scarcely visible to the left and to the back of Margherita Peak ; while on the great ice plain form- ing the Stanley plateau they were able to discern, like little black specks, the caravan of Vittorio Sella, on his way up to the Alexandra Peak that morning. The ring of glaciers ends to the east ^\■ith the Moore Peak of Mt. Baker, where thev saw the stone man which Vittorio Sella had set up there a few days before. Through the opening formed by the Scott Elliot Pass, as if through a window, they saw at a distance the western extremity of Mt. Luigi di Savoia. Between this mountain and the pass the eye follows the valley down to the lakes to the west of Mt. Baker. Here in the pale light of the dawn they made out a fire. This was the camp of the native porters who were bringing supplies. Thus, at that early hour, from tlie summit of Mt. Speke, the Duke saw the whole carefully organized wovk of his expedition proceeding befoi'e his eyes. A little after seven o'clock they were back at the tent, and spent the rest of the day iu drying in the sim their equipment, which was soaked with the rain of the previous days. Towards evening a few more Bakonjo arrived with pro- visions. The night was absolutely clear and starry, and the sun rose in a perfectly clear sky. The Duke started ahead with a guide and proceeded northward across the interval between the lakes and the foot of tlie cliiF, a rocky ledge upon which, about 600 feet further up, the glacier comes to an end in a cascade of seracs. They proceeded by leaping from one to 239 Chapter VIII. another of the blocks heaped at the foot of the chff. The porters found au easier way a little further down through the senecios and helichrysums between the second and third lakelets. Thus skirting along the glacier they presently reached the top of the lofty buttress, which runs westward from Mt. Speke, dividing the two valleys which are to the west of the Stuhlmann and Cavalli Passes. A spur of rock rises from the very ridge, forming a belvedere 14,744 feet high, from which they were able to observe the way which lay before them. Unfortunately the weather was already changing, and detached drifts of mist, which had been gathering here and there, now began rapidly to collect and melt into one another. They saw quite clearly from this point a conical rocky peak rising from one of the western buttresses of Mt. Emin — a sort of " little Matterhorn," which may possibly have been one of the " twin cones " towai'ds which Stairs was steering on his expedition to the north-west of the chain. To reach the foot of Mt. Emin it was necessary to cross the head of the great valley which runs down to the west of the Cavalli Pass and cross another and smaller spur which runs into this valley from Mt. Speke. Hence they continued skirting the moimtains at the foot of the Grant Glacier, which seems to have shrunk even more than the others. On reaching; the top of this spur, they proceeded to descend, skirting the slope towards the Cavalli Pass, taking advantage of a provi- dential ledge which squeezed a narrow way between smooth steep slabs of rock which would otherwise have been impassable. This ledge was covered with a dense thicket of helichrysum, through which the guides cut a path. The valley was crossed 240 Exi)loratiou of ^It. Speke and Mt. Eniiu. iiPiU- the t(i[), just uiidrr the col, ;ni(l Caiiip \'l was estulilishml at a distance of ahout half a mile lielow the Uml)erto (Jlacier upon a little rocky terrace on the top of a precipice w liich reacheil to the bottom of the valley. About 500 feet lower down, this valley foi-ms a sort of amphitheatre suriduiided hv precipitous cliffs, exceptiuj;- in the centre wliere a yjeutler slope leads to tlie Cavalli Pass. To the west it nariows UiulKTtK Peak. Ki-acpcliii Peak. MT. EMIN SKEX FKOM THK K)r..\NI).V ilLACIKI!. i\iyalnt t,ih-ii /.// II. II. II.) into a i»"orij;e thi'oii!:;'h which flows the torrent which sprinirs from the southern glaciers of ,Mt. Emin. The days march had been lonn,-. and all were tired. Uu the morning' of tiie 2Sth of .Inne there was agani a prospect of l)ad weather. They left with a cloudy sky and proceeded to ascend a rock\- ridge which runs down from 241 K Chapter VIII. Umberto Peak between the Eiiiiii and Uniberto Glaciers. ( )n reacliin^ the riglit margin of the latter they left their tent there some 600 feet above tlie sixth cani]i and proceeded to ascend over the snow which covered the ghicier. At the top they turned westward towards a rockv ridge, bv means of which they reached Umberto Peak. Here they remaineel for five hours, but Avere scarcely able to catch a glimpse of a ])eak here and tliere among the mists. Thev built a l)ig stone man n])on the wide I'oekv summit. A great ridge of broken and decomposing rock runs north- ward towards Kraepelin Peak, which is lower and likewise I'ocky. Mt. Gessi, on the other side of the narrt)w gorge, lietween precipitous clitts, lias the appearance of a vast col Avith two peaks rather slightlv accentuated at the northern and southern extremities of the long snoAvy ridge. It Avas late when they returned to the tent near the glacier. The Duke AA^ould haA'e liked to retmn upon Umberto Peak on the folloAving day to take angles, l)ut tlie Aveatlier Avas tlu'eatening from the dawn. They had supplies for one daA' only. At such a distance from Bujongolo, which \\as their liasp, and ^\'lth so man\' passes to cross on the way, it Avas not easy to obtain provisions regularly. It was therefore necessary to return. In half an boui- they reached Camjj VI, under the Cavalli Pass, ascended to tlie hclrcdo-c, in a snoAvstorm, and in the earlA' hours of the aftei'iioon set up tlieir tent once more at the foot of Vittorio Emanuele Peak. ( )n the following daA', a lona' march, almost entireh' in the rain, brouplit them o\'er the Stuhlmann Pass, the head of tlie Bujuku Valley, and tlie Scott Elliot Pass. Tliey once more set uji their tents at Camp II, on tlie shore of the little lake at the toot of the AA'estern slojie of Mt. Baker. liations had been left readA' at 242 Exploration of 'Sit. Speke and Mt. Eniin. preaiTaii<;e(l jjoiiits on tlie return route, so that the caravan could move quickly, having only to carry the light camp material. Finally, on the 1st of July, they crossed the Freshfield Pass, wliere Vittorio Sella had set up his tent, and was waiting witli Botta for fiir weather so as to hi- ahle to do some work with the camera. The Duke proceeded undei- tailing lain and retinned to the muddy Mohuku Valley, and to the camp of Buj(Migolo after seventeen davs' ahsence. The Prince had spent the wliole of this time at lieights above 13,000 feet, with light and l)arely sutKcient equipment, sleeping with his two guides in a single Whvmper tent, without a camj) bed, with clothes nearlv always soaked with rain and snow, and with such discomfort and fatigue as are known only to those who have e.xpeiienced mountain life under similar conditions. Tn the course of the.se .seventeen days he had ascendeil Marglierita, Alexandra (twice), Elena, and Savoia Peaks of Mt. Stanley, Vittorio Emanuele Peak of Mt. Speke (twice), and Umberto Peak of Mt. Emin, crossed tiie Freshtiidd, Scott Elliot, and Stuldinanu Passes and explored the head of the Bujuku Vallev, and the western slojies of Mt. Speke. fh- had determined the relative positions of the peaks, and the relation to each other of tiie seveial groujis, a work already in great part sketched out during his fir,st ascents of tlie ])eaks of Mt. Baker, but now completed by numei-ous altimetric and angular mensuiations. His work was carefully planned to proceed in conjunction with that of the otiier members of the exj)editioii. in order to insure a thorougli exploration of the ranges, as we shall see in the following ciiajiter. :^4:! I! -' CHAPTER IX. FcilTHER AS(_:ENTS ON Mt,S. StANLEY, LuKil Dl SaVOIA AND Baker. Work at Bujongolo. Thiee more ascents of the Alexandra Peak — Ascent of ISIoebiiis Peak — Crossing of the Central Col of Mt. Stanley — A week of bad weather on the Freshfield Pass — Ascent of the Edwaid Peak liy the South Ridge— Ascent of the Sella Peak — Work at Bujongolo — Preparation of a Base Line — H.B.H. returns to the p]dward Peak —Ascent of the Cagni Peak — Panorama taken from the Edward Peak — Ascent of E'eaks WolUiston and Moore —The death of the leojjard — General plan of return. The history of an expe(liti(-)u divided into groups with (hstinet special aims, and husv sinmltaneouslv witli their several labours in different jilaces, is necessarily dis- connected, and must now and again go back to take up another thread, and so follow the course of eacli separate section individually. We must therefore besr o the reader to return to the 22nd of June, when the Diike left Camp IV on the Scott Elliot Pass to descend into the Bujuku A'alley and penetrate to the northern moimtains. At tliis date Comnu^nder Cas: lu a lul Dr. Cavalli, and the iiuide Broclierel, were ■2U Further Ascents and \\'ork at Bujongctlo. asceudiiiu; the Alexandra IVak in a dense fog. Durino- tlie three hours they spent on the sinnniit tliev had a few CI.IMKINC rriK .U.K.X ANHKA I'EAK. ijhnipses of clear sky tind \\ere ahle to discern the neigliljourini;- Marglierita Peak and to repeat certam compass ohservatioiis of the surrounding nioinitains. < )n their way hack thev had to wade through soft snow to the knee. Vittorio Sella had h-ft at daybreak with his photographic equipment and succeeded in getting a few views of tlie peaks from the ridges around the camji. while Iloccati was collecting geological data and mineralogical specimens. Durini; the :i3rd and the 24th the same storm which had rendered useless the Dukes first ascent to Vittorio Emanuele Peak and had kept him a jirisoner in ('amp V for two whole days, prevented Vittorio SeUa and Knccati fioni acconiplislmig any sort of work (mtside of the tent. 245 Chapter IX. As to Cagiii, lie was in a Imnv to get back to Bujoiigolo as soon as inlglit l)e, in (n-(ler to lose no time in starting his magnetic olxservations and in calculating the formation of a base line, which was necessarv to complete the triangnlaticni. He left Camp IV on the 23nl with Dr. Cavalli, and the very same evening crossed the Fi'eshtield Pass, and reached Bujongolo under pouring rain. He left deposits of rations along the way for the use of those who had remained hehind. Di-. Cavalli remained at Camp HI, at tlie foot of the western .slope of Mt. Baker, to collect botanical specimens, and only reached Bujongolo on the following day, also in a coni})letely soaked condition. He foimd Cagni busy with all sorts of occupations. He had been working at organization, paying porters, etc., and was MOF.IMl'S PKAK FKOM Tin: SOUTH-KAST KlIXiK OF THE AI.EXAXDKA PEAK. now engaged in .sending oft' small parties of natives to provide the Duke's party with rations in the far vallevs to the west of 246 MOUNT LUIGI DI SAVOIA TAKEN FROM KING EDWARDS PEAK. MOUNT BAKER NG EDWARU Further Ascents and Work at Buionffolo Mt. Speke. Several Bakonjd hud liruis.-d tlirii- feet and stood in need of the doctor's care. Protitiny- \,y the absence of the greater part of tlic tents, they proceeded witl. tli,- work of improving the camp, eidai-ging tlie ])latf(>rms alivudv existmg and forming new ones, tiUing up holes, moving l)locl1 SAAUIA SEEN FROM THE SOUTH-EAST RIUOE OF THE ALEXANDRA PEAK. Peak, whicli was thus climhrd for the fifth time, then returned to the Stanley plateau, and witli Brocherel and Botta crcssed the col hetween Alexandra and Moeliius Peaks, and went ahout 1,300 feet down the hroken western glacier. From a i-ocky spur projecting between the glaciers which descend from Moebius Peak and those which descend from Alexandra Peak he Avas able to take several photographs of the Avestern slopes, thus getting a complete series of A'ieAA's of Mt. Stanley from every side.* * The rocky spur at the foot of the western glaciers of jNIt. Stanley, which was climbeil 'ly \'ittoiio Selhi, conies out quite clearly in Stuhlmanii's plate, reproduced on p. 206. The photographs taken liy Vittorio Sella on this occasion are those which have enabled us to identify with ^It. Stanley the nioiiiitaiu represented in the above-mentioned plate. 248 Further Ascents and Work at Bujongolo. Thence he re-ascended to the ridge and to the j.lateau, and returned witli Roccati to the camp. On the followmg day, in a .storm of snow and hail, tliey struck camp with tlie assistance of the porters newly arrived from Bujongolo, and descended to tlie lakes to the west of Mt. Baker. On the 29th they again set up their tent on the Fre.shtield Pass. On the verv same day the photographic camera was planted high on the south ridge of the Edward Peak, near to the edge of the glacier. After three hours of vain waiting under rain and sleet, thev hnallv came down to the tent, leaving the camera where it stood. The FRESH SNOW 0\ FRESIIFIELD S PASS. whole of the following day was spent upon the ridge, crouching under the snowfall close to the camei'a. Even on the pass so much snow had fallen that it had hrought down the tent. The tirewood was soaked through and through, and in spite of copious libations of petroleum it was extremely difficult to kindle. 249 Chapter IX. By the Ist of Julv, Roccati had fiiiisliwl his collection ot minerals and rocks around this pass and the neighbouring glacieis. He therefore descended to Bujongolo, leaving Vittorio Sella alone witli Brocherel and Botta, obstinately determined not to give up the struggle. In the afternoon the Duke also crossed the pass, returning from the far distant Mt. Emin and proceeding dii'ectly to Bujongolo. ( )n tlie following morning, in most unpromising weather, Vittorio Sella, witli tlie two guides, climlied the Edward Peak directlv fnun the col by tlie soutliern ridge. He was able to take an occasional jihotograpli and an incomplete panorama. (_)n the way down he was overtaken by a violent recrudescence of the storm, which lasted the whole of the next day with alternate snow and liail. The spectacle presented by storms at that altitude (above 14,000 feet) is surpassingly grand. Heavy cumulus clouds MT. STANLEY FKOM KKESIIFIEI.I) S COL. hang over the Semliki River, wliicli winds far otf in the valley like a streak of silver. Hu\ Chapter IX. Pass he reached a depression of tlie ridi;e. It was extremely difficuh to find tlie wav in tlic mist. Numerous aiguilles of rock ol)Iioed them to cross a steep neve to the south of the ridge and then to retin-n to the north side under tlie sunuuit, which thev reached hy a rocky g^dly. The Sella Peak, 15,280 feet, is rocky and dotted with numerous fulgurites. The edges of the slahs are here and there ])erforated to a deptli of some inches and look as if tliey "were worm-eaten. They THE sorxn raixiE of edwaud rE.VK and the camp close to FUEHHFIEI-D's I'ASS. spent several horns upon the sununit without the chance of taking a single photograph. They were scarcely able, dining a 2.52 Further Ascents and Work at Bujongolo. momentary clearing of the mist, to distinguisli the Wei.smaiiii Peak to the south-west at the end of a lonu- snowy rido-e. On tlieir return tliey descended straight to the Ijottom of the valley, wliich was full of watery and niuddv spots, witli the usual vegetation of senecio, and reached the tent after iiiM-htfall with fine moonliidit. Vlttorio Sella finally rejoined the rest of the expedition at Bujongolo on the 5th of -Tuly, after a whole week spent upon the Freshfield Pass in fruitless expeditions up ttie lidu-es, and hours and horu's of waiting heside his camera in the storms. For all his tenacity and enertjy he liad not succeeded in liettinu' a complete panorama fioni tlie Edward Peak as he had proposed to do. The party at Bujongolo had not meantime remained idle. Commander Cagni had vainly attempted to take magnetic observations, but was prevented by the abundance of minerals containing iron in the rocks around Bujongolo. This infinence was so considerable that it could be felt even when tlie inclinometer was placed at a height of some yards above the earth upon a wooden frame-work constructetl for the ptu'pose. The OTeatest diflicultv, however, was in tinding a streteli of ground level enough and wide enough to allow of nieasuiing a base line whose extremities were to be connected with two of the peaks forming a part of the network of angles measm'ed by the Duke from the difierent monntains whir-li he ascended. There was a level place some distance back, above the clirt", at the foot of which stood the Camp of Bujongolo. But from this level space they cordd only see the Edward and Catrni Peaks which liad not been connected with the others. 253 Chapter IX. Another place liiglier up on the path leadiu^j to the Freshfield Pass, whii-h tlie rains and tlie going to and fio of the porters had now rechieed to the condition of a ditcli full of mnd, oiiered no hetter oppoi'tnnities. The Duke and C'agni hecauie convinced of this after spending a whole day there in the rain. They accordingly ])lanned to prepare a base line t>n the first -mentioned level hehind Biijongolo. The Duke was then to re-ascend the Edward Peak, while Cagni was to climl) the nioTnitain which hears his name, and from these two they were to measure the angles of the other peaks. Everything now depended upon the good luck of getting a few hours of clear weather upon these two summits. Meantime, on the 2nd of July, the Duke made a recognizance in the valley which runs between Mts. Baker and Casrni and comes out opposite Bujongolo. This valley he found to be liarred l)y great steep slabs of rock, e.x.tremely .slippery and certainly nnpassable for tlie native porters. The weather continued bad. Mt. Baker was completely covered with fre.sh snow. In the valley the rain liad turned the whole ground into one mass of deep mud. (Jn the 4tli of July, between the showers, they succeeded, by taking advantage of every break in the fog, in tracing the base line upon the level tract above the camp, which consisted of a carpet of mo.ss upon a muddy soil, dotted with senecios dripping with rain. In order to mom it the theodolite at the extremities of the base line, thev were obliged to build real fomidations, sinking tree trunks into the mud more tlian si.x feet down to serve as piles. Hardly had they taken these preparatory measm-es before the weather ])egan to improve. On the 5tb of July, on a 25i Fui-ther Ascents and Work at Jiuionirolo. perfectly clear and very cold nioriiiiig, the Duke aoaiu went up to the Freshfield Pass. Roccati, who had accompanied him so tar. Iiere re-descended to Bujongolo with Sella, while H.R.il. proceeded directly to the Edward Peak, toUowin^- the southern crest aloni;- wliicli Sella had made the ascent three days before. Tlie mists returned before he reached tlie summit. It was only late in the afternoon tliat lie was al)le to take a few angles in a lirief moment of clear skv. The Duke returned to the camp at nightfall. (_)n tlie 6th of Jidy the weather was again comjiletelv overcast and no work was possible, but on the 7th lie returned earlv in the morning to thd' sunnnit and was al)le to complete all tiie measurements. On tlie following morning he ascended the Stairs Peak ot 'Sit. Luigi di Savoia before returning to Bujongolo. Commander Cagni in the meantime had left Bujongolo on the ()th witli Josepli Petigax, Brocherel and a few natives to ascend the rocky peak to the north of the camp, wliicii was to be connected on one hand with one e.xtremitv of the base line, and on the other with the net of angles of the diti'erent peaks. The Cagni Peak, as mav be seen upon the map. rises at the .southern extremity of a buttress wliicli runs Ijetween :\rt. Baker and the South Portal Peak, flanked by two little vallevs coutainintr small lakes and tributarv streams of the Moljuku. Wishiuii' to avoid tlie .slabs of rock wliich had iirevented the Duke in his recognizance of tiie :2nd of .July from enteiing the valley to the west of the peak, and likewise to avoid crossing the Mobuku Vallev below Bujongolo in the deep mire and throuirh the dense heath forest. Cagni had decided to yo 255 Chapter IX. up the slopes of Mt, Baker and thence to traverse' under Wollaston and Moore Peaks, towards the Cagui Peak. Accordingly the party turned its steps first towards Grauer's Camp near to the Moore Glacier, and thence skirted the eastern slopes of Mt. Baker, intending to reach tlie col to the east of the Moore Peak. But their eternal enemy tht- fog ohliged them to stop on tlie steep slope in the snow, stones and mud. ( )n the following day it hecame plain tliat it was impossihle to pursue this route. It was necessary to go down to the narrow gorge between Wollaston Peak and Mt. Cagui. This was no easy task, and in more places than one tliey were obliged to let do\A'n the loads by a rope, and even to let down the porters as if tliev were parcels. Once at the foot of the south-west side of tlie Cagni Peak, whicli was quite perpendicular to the very bottom of tlie little valley, they ascended this latter as far as its head, througli a dense wood of heath, and set up their tents UTimediately under the col. From this ])oint, on July 8th, they followed the spur which bears the Cagni Peak at its end along its whole length from noi'th to south, keeping upon its western slope. In this way tliev reached the terminal cone, where they left their e(piipment, and after a short climb in the mist, about l^.SO p.m. they reached a small platform, which they took for the summit. The camp theodolite was at once set up upon its tripod. Suddenly through the mist they j)erceived to the simth the real peak, which the refraction of the mist caused them to .see as if at a very great height over their heads. The theodolite was immediately taken down, they descended from the little point which they had reached, and after a real Alpine climb up a very narrow ridge over a difficult h'ltoH ai'Ste, about 12 feet high with L'.5C MOUNT CAGNI Further Ascents and Work at liujongolo. insufficient luuulholds, and skirting round rocky gendarmes on their smooth, steep sides, they reached the real summit about six in the evening. The mist had entirely (h'sappeared, hut nightfall was very neai'. Commander Cagni had scarcely time to take observations of all the peaks witli the compass. They came dow n in tlie dark. On the following morning by sunrise, the weather being perfectly clear, Cagni was once more on the summit, and was able to take measurements of all the angles with the theodolite and with the compass. They set up a stone man, and by eight o'clock they were preparing to return wlien the first mists began to rise. They came back by the same wav. along the spur to the north of the peak and then down into the little valley to the west of it, which they now descended to tlie point where it opens into the Mobuku Valley. Here the mist, whicli had become dense, Avas added to all the otlier flifficulties of crossing the tangled forest, which was verv similar to the one above Kichuchu. They reached Bujongolo the same evening. Sella was there alone, waiting for Cagni's Alpine tent to set forth u])on a new photographic expedition. The Duke had gone up to Camp I upon Mt. Baker that very day. Fioni this point on the following day, July lOtli. tlnough a gullv to the east and then along the south ridge, he reached the \Volla.ston Peak, 15,286 feet, which had not as yet been ascended by any member of the expedition. The rocks were covered with ice. The weather was clear, and he was able to take observations for two whole hours. Next, following the high ridge, he traversed to the Moore Peak, whence he came down along the ridge which hail aln-ady liecn clinihrd bv Vittorio Sella, to the Grauer Col, and so back to Bujongokj. •lot Chapter IX. Vittorio Sella had set forth in the morning with Botta and a few natives, and had returned to the Freshfield Pass. He did not return again to Bujongolo. On the 11th of July he was again upon the Edward Peak at sunrise, and was at last enabled to take the complete panorama of the chain for which he had once waited a whole week in vain on the Freshfield Pass. On the way back he paid a visit to the little knol) some- what lower down, which had been climbed twice by Wollaston, whose card lie now found with the following inscriptions : "A. F. R. Wollaston, R. B. Woosnam, 17th February, 1906. Height by aneroid 16,050 feet." "A. F. R. Wollaston (Alpine Club), R. B. Woosnam, D. Carruthers of the British Museum Expedition to Ruwenzori. Five hours from Bujongolo. Water boil. 183"6 ; temp, of air 397 ; aneroid 16,150 feet, 3rd April, 1906." On the 12th of July, the weather remaining fair. Sella again ascended the Stairs Peak, where he took some good photographs. In the meantime Commander Cagni had done two days' work in finishing the mensuration of the base line and connecting it with Edward and Cagni Peaks, and was able to complete an occultation, fixing the longitude and the latitude of one of its extremities. In order to follow the intense activity of all the diflerent members of the expedition occupied in such various ways and yet directed to one common aim, our story has necessarily become little more than a simple list of facts and of dates. After the retiu'n of the expedition to Bujongolo, the leopard had resumed his daring visits to the camp, killing sheep and coming close to the fires among the native porters to steal the meat. Everyone was too busy to heed him. But the cook, Igini, with Bulli, planned an ambush with two rifles 258 Further Ascents and ^\'ork at Biijongolo. and a piece of meat. One night the splendid animal fell into this trap and was killed on the sj)ot with two halls through its skull. On the 12th of July, the Prince was ahle to consider the work of the expedition as ended. On the 7th, Roccati, who had again returned to the Mohuku Glacier to put marks of red paint on the rocks at the limit where the ice stopped, and who had finished arranging all his collections, had already left Bujongolo with Cavalli and with a party of Bakonjo porters carrying a portion of the e(|uipmeut, hound for Ihanda, the lowest camp in the Mohuku Valley. One mountain alone remained unclimlied, namely, Mt. Gessi, and the Duke was not in a mood to leave it unattempted, all the more so as this ascent would be connected with an exploration of the Bujuku Valley as yet absolutely unknown and worth traversing in its whole length. A party of Bakonjo had started from the point where the Bujuku Valley opens into the Mohuku Valley opposite Nakitawa, and had already cut a rough track as far as the head of the Valley. The plan was now for the Duke to descend the Bujuku Valley with Sella, while Cagni was to direct the transport of all the portion of the equipment which was still at Bujongolo down the Mohuku Valley, and was then to meet Cavalli and Roccati at Ibanda and there wait for tlie Duke. Thus Ibanda became the general rendezvous for the whole expedition. 2.59 s 2 CHAPTER X. Exploration of the Bujuku Valley and of Mt. Gessi. Return of the Expedition. Departure from Bujongolo — The Camp of Ibauda — Visit to the Glacier Lake of the Mahoma Valley — H.R.H. leaves Bujongolo —Lake Bujuku — Descent of the Bujuku Valley — The Migusi Valley — Ascents of the Peaks of Mount Gessi — The Lower Bujuku Valley — The Expedition meets at Ibanda — Resume of the Mountaineering Work of the Expedition — Return to Fort Portal — The Volcanic Region of Toro — Some Shooting — Arrival at Entebbe — The Ripon Falls — • Departure from Africa — Sir Henry Stanley's wish realized. On the 1st of Jvilv, immediately after the Duke letunied to Bujon- golo from Mt. Emui, preparations had ])een commenced for leaving the moinitains definitely, and had been carried on during the intervals left free by the varied work of the camp. In this way were gradually prepared the loads containing the scientific collections, the instru- ments, and all those objects which were no longer necessary. They had at their disposal some forty Bakonjo portei's only, as it woidd have been difficult to have provided supplies for a greater number so far from Ibanda. It was therefore necessary 260 Bujuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. to cany down the equipineut in several trips. The tirst party of porters had left Bujongolo ou the 4th July with forty loads. Oil tlie 7th a second caravan went down, accompanied by Roccati and by Cavalli, who liad iiastened his departure when he heard tluit there were porters ill in various camps of the valley, a report wliich proved to lie without foundation. A week later Cagni left Bujongolo witli Laurent Petigax, Brocherel, Igini, and twenty-three natives ; the Duke had left for the Bujuku Valley on the previous day. Finally, on the loth of July, the departure of BuUi with a last party of thirty Bakonjos left Bujongolo deserted. All were satisfied with the work done, and were in fine spirits at the prospect of returning home, and left without a reofret the wild rock which had offered them shelter durinsr five weeks. They were glad to leave behind tliem so much mud and stones, the melancholy vegetation consumed by the mildews and lichens, the pallid light of the mists, the everlasting drip of the rain, the damp and the cold, and to get back to the sun and the dry heat of the tropical plains, the life and the colour, the cries of birds, the bright flowers and the gay crowd of thoughtless and noisy Bagandas. The Mobuku lliver, swollen Ijy more than fifteen days of continuous rains, was no longer recognizable. It formed magnificent cascades from one of the vallev terraces to another. At every step ou their way down, the parties met porters on their way up to Bujongolo to fetch loads. A month before, when they first came up from the plain, the valley had struck them as almost without sound of animal life, but now, after weeks spent in the silence of the mountains where at the utmost an occasional crow hovered overhead, tliey were impressed by every buzzing of insects or fluttering 261 Chapter X. of wings. Bihiinga had hecome an iiuportaut centre. It was the jjlace wlieie the Bakonjo porters passed on the loads to the Baganda of the plain who had again been concentrated at Iljanda. Ibanda had now become a big permanent camp. The members of the expedition, as they arrived from Bujongolo, were received bv the neighbouring chieftains with the usual ceremony and oflering of gifts. The camp had become the natural meeting place for all the inhabitants of the surromiding . • W7 I^T^'' ^^^^'^^^TrT^^^T^Pl^TWi .'/ ^ ■]^:£ii l^n f. rnFr " PORTERS I\ CAMP, AT IBANDA. villages. Women and old men were busy rooting out weeds and j^reparing the ground to construct new huts near the tents. From morning till night there was a racket and bustle ; they all crowded aromid the fires, around the kitchens, around the barbers, while the native soldiers wandered hither and thither attempting to keep a little order in the confusion. The ii\er was generally fidl of natives, bathing and disporting themselves in the water with great enjoyment. 262 Bujuku Valley. — Eeturn of the Ex]iedition. Dr. Cavalli found plenty of occupation, and was busy for several hours every day with the sick people who came from far and near, supported or carried with loving care bv their relations or friends. While undergoing trifling operations they would scream and weep, and immediately after laugh like children. Commander Cao^ni undertook a series of maonetic observa- tions. Dr. Roccati made ijeoloo^ical and mineraloo^ical excursions in the neighbourhood. One of these took him to the little lake above Nakitawa where the Mahoma Valley opens into the Mobuku Valley. This lakelet had been observed by Moore, Johnston, Dawe, etc. Mr. Freshfield calls it Lake Kobokora, but from all accounts it would seem that no one had yet actually reached it. To arrive thither from Nakitawa, Roccati had to pass through virgin forest without any track, while the Bakonjos cut the way with axes through bamboos, lianas and heaths. There were moraine ridges to cross, through an midergrowth so dense that in many places they actually walked upon the thickets, on an elastic cushion of branches and twigs several feet deep. Now and again, one of the Bakonjo guides would climb a tree to get his bearings. Near to a fallen trunk they found traces of an old camp fire, a bit of newspaper and a sardine tin, no doubtful sign of the passage of a preceding explorer, possibly Dr. WoUaston or some other member of the British Museum Expedition. From this point they reached the lakelet in one hour. It is plainly a glacial lake, oval in .shape, and miming from south-east to north-west, with steep shores and surrounded by a narrow strip of nnul, beyond which the deep water begins at once. There was fog round about, and complete silence, with no sign of animal life. Dr. Roccati collected plants and zoological 263 Chapter X. spucinieus from tlu- iiiiul on the hanks. Laurent Petiyax and Broclierel returned later to the lake and were able to confirm the oljservation that it has normally no emissaries. While tlie members oi' the expedition were thus occupied at Ibanda, the Duke of the Al)ruzzi was completing the exploration of the mountains. He had left Bujongolo on the morning of the 13th of July with the guides Joseph Petigax, Oilier, a native soldier, a boy, and seventeen native porters including the guide, a fine old man of fifty years. At the Freshfield Pass he was joined by Sella and Botta, and they proceeded together as far as Camp III at the foot of the western slopes of Mt. Baker. The valley of the lakes, which they had so often traversed in rain and fog, now, on this fine clear day, seemed to ofter an entirely new prospect. The sun, however, seems almost to strike a false note in tlie dense and melancholy forest of senecios. The helichrysums seem like skeleton flowers, and the scene is grim, sad, lifeless and brooded over by an oppi'essive silence. On the following day, after a clear sunrise, the air again grew dark with mists. They climbed to the Scott Elliot Pass by the well-known way and set forth down along the gully towards the Bujnku Vallev. Those who went ahead were in incessant danger of being hit bv the stones which the numerous party of natives kept rolling down, in spite of all precautions. From the foot of the gully, in a very short space of time, after crossing the grotesque forest of senecio mingled \\ith clumps of everlasting flowers, and interrupted at one point by a brief marshy tract covered with reeds, they reached the shores of Lake Bujuku (12,855 feet), a splendid sheet of calm water upon which they saw a few duck. The view of the peaks of Mt. Stanley and Mt. Baker towering above them with their grim precipices was, beyond all comparison, 264 LAKE BUJUKU AND MOUNT STANLEY Bujuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. grander than the mountain scenery at the head of the Mobuku Valley. They soon discovered, among the mosses and reeds on tlie shore of the lake, the track prepared for them by the Bakonjo natives across the gently sloping plain of the upper valley. This plain ends in a gorge formed by spurs which run down from the Moore Peak of Mt. Baker and the Johnston THE Kr.rtKr vai.i.ev. Peak of Mt. Speke. Here there is a short, steep barrier, similar in every respect to those which intersect the Mobuku Valley. They now had a sight of the first heaths (12,297 feet), mingled with a few lobelias, which were nearly all dead. Makino- their wav down, now on the right liand and now on the left of the torrent, they reached a second plain, after 265 Chapter X. wliicli the valley again narrows into a gorge formed by the north- ward prolongation of tlie spin- on whose southern extremity rises the Cagni Peak. This spur runs so far across the valley as almost to meet the long and considerable buttress which stretches from Mt. Speke eastward and forms so far the northern or left wall of the valley. Upon the ridge of this sjnu' of Mt. Speke stands the extraordinary monolith of rock, with regular and architectural lines, which had been one of the first features noticed by them in the ascents of Mt. Baker. The way leads down the right side of the gorge, which is clothed at the bottom with a dense forest of heaths, which would have caused them to waste a good deal of time had a track not been already cut. They came out of tliis gorge upon a third plain of more ample dimensions, into which open several tributary valleys from the north. One of these runs up to the north-west behind the east spur of Mt. Speke,. and at its head forms the narrow gorge between Mt. Emin and Mt. Gessi. This is the Migusi Valley. Two more valleys, divided by a minor ridge, are traversed by the torrent Kurungu, which springs from a little lake fed by the lolanda Glacier of Mt. Gessi, and tlie Waigga which also flows from a lake at the foot of the North Portal. On reaching this plain, they encamped in a suitable place (11,503 feet), near a sheltering rock at the foot of a spur on the right side of the valley in a clearing of the forest all full of blossoming helichrysum. The spot was lovely, the slopes of the valley clad with dense forest, while before them towered up the rocky peaks of the North Portal. This Camp, marked No. IX on tlie map, was their starting point for the ascent of Mt. Gessi, the last mountain still left unclimbed. 266 Biijiiku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. On the iiiorning of the 15th, tlie Duke, with two guides and a few native porters crossed the plain to the north, steerino- towards a depression on the ridge to the north of the vallev which runs down from Mt. Speke. This depression he reached CAMP IX, BUJlKr VAI-LEY. by ascending up a small lateral valley skirting the side in order to avoid the dense brush. From the ridge they went down into the Migusi Valley and followed for some distance the tracks of a leopard, which liad made its way through tlie thickets. 267 Cl)ai)ter A. The Miii'usi Valley is uIko formed of a series of successive terraces. They ascended tirst one rise and then another, and finally reached a slightly inclined plain leading to the head of tlie valley where the narrow gorge between Mts. Eniin and Gessi begins. They skirted the plain and ascended the right slope of the valley to a point not far from the end of the lolanda Glacier. All of the Bakonjo were marching remarkably well. Tlie liardest work was for the guides, who had to cut a patli through the dense thickets of brush. Camp X (13,GG8 feet) was set up close to the ancient moraine, only a few hundred yai'ds from the present face of the glacier, which ends in broken sdracs on the })row of a clift'. The senecios and helichrysums climb up a little higher than the point where the camp was fixed. The view from this high level over the great amphitheatre of mountains is one of the finest panoramas of the whole Ruwenzori range. (-)n the mornino;' of the 1 6th there was hard frost all around the camp. The start was made before daybreak. First they ascended a gully overhung by the terminal seracs of the lolanda Glacier. Tlien they crossed the rocks to the right of the gully and reached the snow, and then the south-east ridge of the mountain. At 6.30 a.m., the Duke set foot upon the rocky summit of the lolanda Peak (15,647 feet). Tlie rope had not been used in the ascent. Oilier began at once to build a monmnental stone man. The weather had been threatening when they set forth, Init liad now liecome quite clear, and the view of the mountains was complete in e^•ery detail, so tliat the Duke was able to make one more photographic panorama of the entire range. In this way the whole chain was photographed in panoramas taken from 268 P'lNOKAMA TAKEN FROM yOLANPA PEAK. MOUNT CESS/ Bujuku Vallev. — licturn of the Expedition. either extremity of the irregular semi-circle which forms its main contour, i.e., from Stairs Peak of Mt. Luigi di Savoia, and from the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi. In addition to these we have a panorama taken from the Edward Peak,* and another from Grauer's Rock. Before them, at a short distance, stood the jagged rock ridge of Mt. Eniin. To the south of Mt. Emin came Mt. Speke with the great Vittorio Emanuele MT. CIESSI FROM THE ElAVAKP PEAK OF .MT. ]UKER. Glacier, which is Ijetter seen from Mt. Gessi than from any- other point. Behind this glacier towers the terminal ridge of Margherita Peak, showing its ample north-west shoulder. Further south tlie whole of Mt. Baker is visible, with its wild precipice descending straight to the Bujuku Valley. To * Not reprudnccd in this work. 269 Chapter X. the east of Mt. Baker, tlie Cagiii Peak is visible behind a whole series of spurs. Mt. Gessi joins the North Portal to the south-east by u long ridge. To all appearances the watershed ridge proceeds from the North Portal along a series of ridges in a north- easterly direction, so that the water which collects on the eastern slopes of Mt. Gessi would flow ultimately into the Semliki Valley. The Duke stopped a long time on the summit, so as to enjoy a last view of this splendid display of mountains and glaciers, which had no longer any secrets. Next, following the snow ridge, he ascended Bottego Peak, which is 164 feet below lolanda Peak, in half an hour. The panorama is much the same. A little lake was visible in a narrow valley which runs down to the north of the Cavalli Pass between Mt. Gessi and Mt. Emin. From the north-east and north sides of Mt. Emin three little glaciers flow down. The whole west side of Mt. Gessi is taken up by a glacier, while the east side is naked rock. They returned by the same route, except that on reaching the gully they kept along its side instead of following the bottom, in order to avoid the danger of avalanches from the seracs of lolanda Glacier. Before midday they once niore reached the tent which they had left in the morning. After a brief halt they set forth again, and came rapidly down to Camp IX in the Bujuku Valley. During the whole exciu'sion the strange monolith upon the spur which divided the Bujuku Valley from the Migusi Valley had always been in sight. Sella was so attracted by its strange appearance that he had given up accompanying the Prince up Mt. Gessi on purpose to examine it more closely. 270 THE BUJUKU TORRENT. Bujuku Valley. — Pteturn of the Expedition. He set out with Botta on the morning of the loth, and coming l)ack to the second terrace of the valley proceeded to ascend the spur to the north, among giant heaths and shrubs of everlasting flower, over extremely broken gromid, skirting GIANT TREE IN THE l.i IWEK BUJUKU VAI.I.KY. huge blocks, climbing upon fallen tree trunks covered \\itli moss and concealing deep holes. The fog surrounded them before they had reached a point sufflcieiitly high to get a clear view of the monolith. 273 Chapter X. On the following day they were able to approach much nearer. Here a disappointment awaited Sella, for the monolith proved to be a very commonplace pinnacle of rock which had received from its isolated position on a ridge an appearance of being much more grand than was actually the case. He came back to Camp IX by night, a few hours later than the Duke. On the 17th they proceeded to descend the valley under a clouded sky but without rain or fog. They crossed the IBANDA. terrace which forms the meeting point of the Bujuku, Migusi and Kurungu Valleys. This is probably an ancient lake bottom, and is now completely covered with reeds. They skirted its left slope on uneven ground scattered with little grassy hillocks. They now reached the third rise followed by a long gorge running between the two South Portals. 274 Bnjuku Vallev.— Pietiirn of the Expedition. Here the valley bends slightly soutliward and the descent becomes steeper. They followed the left side of the river, which falls in rapids and noisy cataracts. A little below the plain the senecios come to an end, but the lobelias continue (Stuhlmanni and Deckenni). After crossing the Manureggio, which is a tributary of the Bujuku and flows into it from the left, thev entered a region of BAGAXDA Vn.I-AGE. giant grass which grows like a bed of reeds between the heaths, and covers on every side the steep declivities dotted with huge, boulders and intersected by a mass of little irregular gorges. The natives had made a path by simply trampling down the long thick stalks, which form an elastic surface where you slip, sink in, and stumble at every step. Camp XI (9,547 feet) was placed below the gorge of the Portals. Thev now found themselves once more in the true no T 2 Chapter X. forest among huge trees, fine podocarpiis, entwined with lianas and ])anib(H) thickets. There were no more senecio nor lobeHa. Troo}).s of monkeys disported themselves in the branches, and the air was full of the song of birds. In the eveninc it beean to rain for the first time after ten days of dry weather. It was the only considerable period of k. ■iiii-riTi^Tii-'""itT"i~- m idHK -jitf ■nm^. -^ wP • tik •" ' "it; i>^3*..: - ^ 1 . Li. **«?;.rf " ' ^^H^^H^^ 1 J ^^^^^^^Hk 1 ■ r^i' F# -.^^^m-' ■ ^ If^W^PS^ iP CR.VTEIt LAKE KAIT.VB.iKOOA, NEAR FORT TORTAL. good weather that the expedition bad met with among the mountains. On the following day they descended by a path which grew better and better, keeping upon the left bank of the stream. On reaching the bottom of the valley they tm-ned southward, traversing the Bujuku and a small affluent, and made straight for the Mobuku where they found a rougb bridge of bamboos. 276 Bujuku Valley.— Return of the Expedition. Soon after they reached the familiar track down the Moljuku Valley and elimhed the moraine of Nakitawa. Two honrs more brought them to Bihunga and two more to Il)an(la, where the A^-hole expedition was now assembled. The Duke of the Abruzzi had now fnlfiUed the task which he had undertaken ; his untiring energy, seconded by the zeal BACK AGAIN OX THE SHORES OK LAKE VICTORIA. and ability of his companions, had lauught the exploration of Ruwenzori to completion. I have put together in tabular form a list of all the ascents of the Ruwenzori Peaks made by the members of the Italian expedition between the lOtliof June and the 16th of July. This table shows the mountaineering work done Ijy the expedition. Chapter >^. Table of Ascents in the Ruwenzori Range made isv the Expedition OF H.R.H. the Dike of the Abruzzi in the ^Ionths of June and Jdly, 1906. Mounlain. Peak. Height above sea-level. Date. By whom climbed. Route followed. Stanley Margherita 16,815 June 18 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel From the col between Alex- a n d r a and Margherita Peaks. Alexandra . . . 16,749 June 18 June 20 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Gtiides : J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi By the Eastern Ridge. June 22 U. Cagni and A. Cavalli )) June 26 V. Sella )) June 27 V. Sella and A. Roccati )) Elena 16,388 June 20 H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi C4uides: J. Peti- gax. Oilier, and Brocherel By an Eastern Gully. Moebius . . . June 25 Y. Sella and A. Roccati Guides : Bro- cherel and Botta By the Eastern Ridge. Savoia 16,339 June 20 H.RH.theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier and Brocherel Traversed. The mouiitaiDB are given in order of height. Guides are mentioned in first ascents only. 278 Bujuku Valley.— Ketnrn of the Expedition. Table of Ascext.s ix the KnvENZORi Range made by the Expedition OF H.R.H. THE Dike of the Abruzzi, in the months of June and Ji-LY, l^OQ— continued. Moiintaii Peak. Height above Date Uy whom climbed. Route followed. 1 sea-ievei. Speke ... Vittorio Elmanuele; 16,080 June 2.3 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi C4uides: J. Peti- gax and Oilier From the West. Johnston . . . 1.0,906 — Not climbed. Baker ... Edward 15,988 June 10 H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax. Oilier, and Broeherel From Grauer Col. July 2 July 5 V. Sella H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi From Fresh- fifld Col. July 7 H.R.H.theDuke of the Aliruzzi )) July 11 V. Sella „ Semper 15,843 June 10 H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Broeherel From Grauer Col. Wollastoii ... 15,286 July 10 H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides : Oilier and L. Petigax By a Western Gully and the South Ridge. Moore 15,269 June 12 V. Sella Guides : Bro- i cherel and Botta From- Grauer Col. " July 10 H.R.H.theDuke of the Abruzzi Traversed. The mountains are given in order of height. Guides are mentioned in first ascents only. 279 Cliai)ter X. Table of Ascents in the Eovenzori Range made by the Expedition OF H.R.H. the Duke of thf. Abruzzi, in the months of June and July, 1 906 — eontimted. Mountain. Peak. Height above sea-level. Date. Bv whom clinxhi.'rl. Eoute followed. Emin . . . Umberto . . . 15,797 June 28 H.R.H. theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides : J. Peti- gax, L. Peti- gax and Oilier By the South- West Ridge. Kraepelin ... 15,752 — Not climlied. Gessi ... lolanda 15,647 July 16 H.R.H. theDuke of the AViruzzi Guides : J. Peti- gax and Oilier Traversed. Bottego 15,483 July 16 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Guides : J. Peti- gax and Oilier Bv the South Ridge. Luigi di Savoia Weismann... Sella 15,299 15,286 July 4 Not climbed. V. Sella Guides : Bro- eherel and Botta By a W. Gully and the North Ridge. Stairs 15,059 June 19 V. Sella and A. Roccati, without guides Bv the Western Ridge. July 8 H.R.H. theDuke of the Abruzzi July 12 V. Sella Cagni . . . 14,826 July 8 July 9 U. Cagni ... By the Northern Guides : J. Peti- Ridge. gax and Bro- cherel U. Cagni The mountains are given in order of height. Guides are mentioned in first ascents only. 280 Bnjuku Valley. — Iveturn of the Expedition. It took the expedition two days to reach Fort Portal from Ibanda. Ruwenzori was again enveloped in its usual impenetrable veil of clouds and mists and they saw it no more. They were now again in the suffocating heat of the plain, among the noisy crowd of porters and the familiar scenes of native villages with their plantain groves, and again received at each stage by the chieftains with all the ceremonial of African etiquette. At Fort Portal the English officials, King Kasagama with his court, and the missionaries rivalled one another in hospitality and courtesy toward H.RH. and his companions. While they were here, Roccati went with Sella iipon a geological and photographic excursion to the craters and the crater lakes of the volcanic region of Toro. The shores of these lakes are covered with a dense vegetation of palms, dracenas, and euphorbia, which are mirrored in the water, while the water itself, the air and the wood swarm with an incredibly rich animal life, protected, perhaps, by the super- stition which causes the natives to shun these craters as haunts of wizards and of evil spirits. In the meantime, the Duke with Cagni and CavaUi, joined later by Sella, made some shooting excursions. It was now the dry and less favourable season. It was impossible to penetrate the dense grasses which formed walls on either .side of the paths and hid the surrounding country. Every night roinid Fort Portal the district was lit up with the red glare of the fires, which burned miles and miles of dry grass. In the beainnino- of August the time came for their departure. Messrs. Knowles and Haldane accompanied them from Fort Portal. Notwithstanding the frequent storms, 281 Chapter X. there were field fires in every direction, which even became a source of danger tt) tlie camjis when the wind blew that way. AVliole districts were qiiite bare and covered with ashes. On the 7th of August, the expedition crossed the frontier between Tore and Uganda. Here it was met by Major Wyndham. The native porters seemed very impatient to get home and marched fast with few halts. The stages were difterently distributed and the camps were set up in places where they liad not stopped on the journey up. A halt was made at Byndia, as previously at Kichiomi in the Kingdom of Toro, foi' the purpose of making a seiies of magnetic observations. On the 14th of August, they at last reached the shores of Lake Victoria. The discipline of the caravan had become somewhat relaxed during the last days, and at every moment there were rows, disputes, and quarrels between the porters. They had chosen a more direct route to return, and reached the banks of the lake just opposite the exti'eme end of the peninsula upon which Entebbe is situated. Here native canoes were ready in suflicient numbers to carry the whole party. While the boats were being prepared and loaded, they lunched upon the bank of the lake in the shade of lofty trees. They reached Entebbe in the early afternoon. After a week spent in packing the luggage which was to be carried back to Italy, and during which time they were entertained with the greatest hospitality and kindness by all the European residents, the expedition left Entebbe, with its crowd of islands and its flowery shores, upon tlie steamer Sibyl. They stopped at Jinja to visit the famous Ripon Falls, which o Bujuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. form the origin of tlie Victoria Nile. Here they made an excursion in long native canoes upon the dark green waters of the river swarming with birds. On tlie 24th they reached Port Florence, and left the same day by train. On the 28th of August the Italian expedition left African soil upon the steamer Natal of the French Messao-eries. Five mouths later, before a largely attended meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society, honoured by the presence of H.M. King Edward VII., H.R.H. tlie Duke of the Abruzzi gave an account of liis discoveries, denionstratiug that lie had HEAD OY THE VICTOltlA NILE. brought about the realization of the wish expressed five years before by Sir Henry M. Stanley before the same Society : " The dear wish that some person devoted to his work, some lover of Alpine climbing, would take Ruwenzori in hand and make a thorough work of it, explore it from top to bottom, througli all those enormous defiles and those deep gorges." Alas ! the great explorer died two years and a-half ago, and never saw his wish fulfilled. 28.5 Acldenduni. [This book Wcis already in print when Mr. A. F. R. Wollaston brought out his valuable book (" From Ruwenzoi'i to the Congo," London, John Murray, published in September, 1908), in which, among other matters, he describes his climbs in the Ruwenzori chain. I have already dealt with his interesting- mountaineering work in Chapters I and YII, in my sketch of the history of the exploration of Ruwenzori before H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi.] 286 The Appendices have been translated by Prof. A. H. Keane, LL.D., F.R.G.s/ APPENDIX A. Dk. luigi hugues. THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON OF PTOLE.AIY'S GEOGRAPHY AND THE RUWENZORI R.ANGE. THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON OF PTOLEMY'S GEOGRAPHY AND THE PtUWENZORI RANGE. Ix Chuiiliiis Ptolumy's (ieogniphy (liook IV, chap. S) we read :is follows : " At the southern latitude of 12' 30', and between the longitudes of 57' and 67 , there rises the -Mountain of the Moon, whose snows feed the lakes, sources of the Nile." As >nider the latitude specified by the (ieographer thei'c is no high land in equatorial Africa that is elevated enough to l)e described as snowy, and still less as rising aliove the line of perpetual snows, and as, moreover, a latitude lying so far to the south would place such a high land quite beyond the upper liasin of the Nile, the suspicion is not withi)\it justification that si'veral geographers have rai.sed that the mention of the Mountain (or of the Mountains) of the Moon does not come directly from Ptolemy, but is an interpolation foisted into his Geography by some Arali writer. This view is held by Cooley, who, in his Ptuhunij audthi' XUe, published in 1S.")4, thus cxiH'esses himself: "Ptolemy is a very methodical wiitci', and divides his IJeography into chapters, each describing some natural zone or region, and containing coiuiected information. Had he known that the lakes of the Nile were fillcil from the snows of mountains further south, he would, in conformity with his general method, have included these ultimate sources in his account of the rivei'. Now the .Mountains of the Moon are not mentioned in the chapter which treats of the Nile ('), l)ut in a separate and, as it were, supplementary chapter, containing matters avowedly obscure and little known, and even there they are mentioned not directly, but in an oblique manner, and with a very suspicious gloss." (-) Note. — The iij;iuvs in brackets in tlu' ti'xt ivtVi' to tin tluL- Appendix. uoters printed at the euil nf 289 Appendix A. Dr. Heiiiiich Kiepert also appeals to accept the same view where he writes ill his Tiviitis)' (III Ancifiit (f'/vi/riijihi/ : " The expression ' lilue Mountains (Jihel gomr), given liy the Arabs to those great mountain masses (Kenia, Kilimanjaro and others), seen only from afar, and indistinctly, has long lieen wrongly interpreted in the sense of ' Mountains of the Moon ' (Jihel-el-Qamar), and thus gave rise to the translation 26\i)i'//v !./,<,•.■ which is given on Ptolemy's map, and to an error which the recent explorations in that region of Africa have banished fi'om our maps and from our books." (■') " The strange name of Mountains of the Moon," says Prof. Alfred Kirchhofl", " is due probably to an interchange of two Arab terms or to the twofohl meaning of one and the same term." (*) And, in fact, the Arab writer el-Nowairi, quoted by Masudi, asserts that Kamar (read Qamar) means both modii and irliih'. And in this connection it will not be beside the question to note that Aristotle had already placed the sources of the Nile in a ' Silver Mountain ' {'Aftyvpeo^ opof). {^) This Silver Moimtain has a striking analogy with the White ^lountain of the mediifval Arab writers, an analogy which suggests some important and sensible reflections to Vivien de Saint-Martin. ('') If the mention of the Mountains of the .Moon, or else of the \\'hite Mountains (?) is of Arab origin, which, liesides the stated reasons, might also be shown to be probal)le from the fact that no allusion to that lofty range is made in the edition of Ptolemy's Geography issued by Donis in 14)^2, (") the latitude 12" 30' S. would have been inserted in the text to bring it into accord with the position assigned by the Alexandrian Geographer to the two lakes, sources of the Nile. And respecting these lakes, here is what we gather from the seventh chapter of Book IV : — The western lake has latitude (south) 6' and longitude ")7' : the eastern is at latitude (south) 7 and longitude 65 . The rivers issuing from these two lakes unite at north latitude 2" and under the 60th meridian, and they thus form the chief branch of the Nile, which at north latitude 2 and under the 61st meridian receives the Kiver Astapus, emissary from Lake Coloe, which lies on the equinoxial line and under the 69th degree of longitude. It is quite vmderstood that the Ptolemaic data referring to geographical features are not to be taken literally. The number of astronomic observations at the command of Ptolemy was very limited ; the results of those few observa- tions, especially for the longitudes, were nearly all very far from the actual. To accomplish the gigantic woik that he had undertaken, no better means occurred to the Geographer than that of reducing to astronomic data the elements — distances and directions — derived from the itineraries both by land and water, or ali-eady known from previous works, amongst which, first and 290 The Ilinvenzoii Jlange. foremost, wus that nf his immediate precursor, Marinus of Tyre, or else those gathered by himself from the more or less accurate reports of travellers and seafarers. C*) All can see how defective such a method must Ite. From the early itineraries traced without compass in determining the directions, without chronometers for the intervals of time and distiinces, and without sufficient knowledge of the marine and atmospheric currents, it was obviously impossible to obtain other than quite hypothetic, and for the most part only roughly approximate results. ('■') The reduction of the route distances to astronomic notations (degrees and fractions of degrees) was made by Ptolemy with the stadium luiit e(|uivalent to the 500th part of the equatorial degree. ('") But we know that those routes were })ased on a different unit of measure, namely, the Olympic stadium of 600 to the equatorial degree. Hence, if foi' instance, it was a (piestion of an itinerary of ^^,000 stadia (in the direction of the meridian), the number of corresponding degrees woidd be 5 of latitude according to the Olympic measure, while according to Ptolemy it came to 6°. And in general, to olitain the true, or the approximately true, differences of latitudes and longitudes, we have to multiply by ;'; those given l)v the Geographer, or, which is the same thing, reduce them by ^. At the same time this single operation is very far from sufficing to introduce any accuracy into the Ptoleniiuc tables. It cannot be asserted in the first place that all the itineraries without exception were recorded in Olymjiic stadia; nor is the possibility to be e.vcluded that for some of them tlie stadium of Eratosthenes of 700 to the eciuatorial degree was taken as the unit : iii which case the reduction should be by ?. Moreover, in a great many cases there occur ernjrs of another nature, amongst wdiich outstanding are those u7ro\fi), is placed liy him under the latitude of 7' S. ('"), while, on the other hand, he was naturally iiirliiieear in mind that long before the time of Ptolemy, the great Eratosthenes, speaking of the chief branch of the Nile, expressed himself thus : " Two waterways fall into the Nile : they l>oth come from certain lakes lying far to the east and enclosing a verv large island known bj- the name of Weroe. One of these waterways, called Astaboras, forms the east side of the island, the other is called Astapus. Some authors, however, gi\e to the latter the name of Astasobas, and apply the name Astapus to another waterway, which they l)ring from the lakes lying in the region of the south, and regard it in some way as the main stream or else as the chief branch of the Nile, adding that its periodical floods are due to the summer rains." ('■') If, as seems beyond diml>t, the Astaboras is to be identified with the Atbara, the Astasolias with the Bahr el-Azrek or Blue Nile, and the Astapus with the White Nile or Bahr el-Abiad (main branch of the Nile), Ptolemy would have liut repeated on the whole what three centuries Jiefore him had been so well expressed bj^ the Librarian of Alexandria, merely adding on his own part the positions — latitude and longitude — of the two lakes lying in the region of the south, that is, south of the equinoxial line whose waters feed the chief artery of the all-important fluvial system. At this point we meet with an appaiently serious olijection. According to the authors alluded to by Eratosthenes the name Astapus is given to the principal luaneh of the Nile flowing from the south, whereas Ptolemy applies it to an affluent of the Nile which, issuing from Lake Coloe under the ccjuinoxial line, falls into the main stream at latitude 12° N. But, as above stated, the objection is only apparent. Eratosthenes, speaking for himself, had already given the name of Astapus to the river marking the west (and south-west) side of the island (peninsula) of Meroe, that is to say, the Abai or Bahr el-Azrek. Ptolem}', on his part, did not think it right to depart from the opinion of his predecessor, and so kept the name of Astapus for the subordinate river. It might be more important to notice in the (Geography of the Alexandrian two errors, one of which aft'ects the Lake Coloe (Lake Tana or Tsana in the heart of Abyssinia), which he places under the ccpiinoxial line. The other mistake consists in describing the Astaboras as a river which mingles its waters with the Astapus. But an enquiry into all these matters, besides reqtiiring too great a development, would be foreign to the question of the lakes, sources of the Nile, and to that of the MoiiiU.-iins of the Moon. Notice can only l)e taken of the 29-t The Iluwenzori Kaiim'. mistake made l.y Stanley, wIk., after calling Ptolemy " the Kaven.stein or the Justus Perthes of his perioil " (Yd. II, p. 270), says that the easternmost lake was called liy Ptolemy Color Pahis, whereas this lake is expressly described in the Alexandrian's work as l)elonging to the secondary basin of the Bahr el-Azrek. (-") Meanwhile, from the facts so far pointed out, we clearly see how greatly those authors are at fault who place the two lakes of the Upjjfr Nile, and as a n8c^ssary eonseciusnce the Mountains of the Moon too, in the highland region of Aliyssinia, thus turning the Ptolemaic data upsiile down, and stating in support of their assumption that the ancients knew of only one system of snowy mountains in Africa, namely, that of the Abyssinian Semen. All the less can we accept the opinion of those writers who, with Ravenstein (-i), prefer Marinus Tyrus to Ptolemy, and locate the Upper Nile lakes in the neighl>our- hood of the east coast, and precisely in the territory of the Afars (Dankali), that is at over 11 of north latitude. Those two famous lakes are, lieyond doubt, identical, the eastern with Lake Victoria, the western with Lake Albert or Albert Edward, or piol)al)ly with both of them taken together. Nor does the i)l>jection hold which is suggested by the too great difference (8 degrees) in the longitudes of the two lacustrine basins, as, besides the uncertainty in which Ptolemj- leaves us regarding the locality of the eastern lake, of which he gives us the geographical relations, it may be remarked that the difference might have been caused )>y the windings of the routes that had to be traversed to get from the southern shores of the easterii lake to any point of the western. (--') It is further objected that Ptolemy tells us nothing as to the size of the two lakes, which seems strange, especially as regards Lake ^'icto^ia, a rival in ai-ea of the largest lakes in the Laurentian basin of North America. On this point I may remark that neither for any of the other lakes does Ptolemy tell us anything respecting their extent. Why, then, shoidd he make a solitary exception in the ease of the two Nilotic ones 1 Nor should it be forgotten that in his comprehensive work Ptolemy shows himself more especially in the light of an astronomer. The geographer appears, so to sax, only in the seconfl place. In fact, no trace is to be found of a physical description of the world, of its morphology, or of any of the othei- subjects that form the main object of pure geography. In this respect Ptolemy is far inferior to Strabo. His chief aim, says Bunbury, was to rectify the general map of the hal)ital)le globe, not onl}' by supplying what had remained unknown to his predecessors, but also by applying from beginning to end a more scientific system based on solid astronomic founda- tions. He again inclined to the idea that had long before been entertained by 295 Appendix A. Hipparchns, Imt which that great astronomer had Iieeii iiiiaMe to realize owing to the great hick of materials. The identitj' being thus demonstrated ot Ptolemy's two lakes with Lake Victoria and the Albert-Albert Edward l)asin, we now come to the question of the Mountains of the Moon. That these uplands, lofty enough to feed the reservoirs of the Upper Xile with their snows, are to be placed amiil the Abyssinian highlands, and more particularly in the mountains of Semen ur of Gojam, is a view that must be absolutely rejected. To it aie opp(}sed the northern position of those mountains, the fact that the Abyssinian heights stand altogether outside the upper basin of the White Nile, and perhaps also the altitude itself which, although in some of its peaks rivalling that of Monte Eosa, is still too low to justify Ptolemy's statement, if, indeed, the Geographer intended to speak of perennial snows. The Abj'ssinian Mountains l)eing excluded, only two upland groups remain that might aspire to the honour of being identified with the ^lountains of the Moon. These are the Kilimanjaro-Kenia (-'^) and the Kuwenzori groups. There is, however, a serious olijection. Ptolemy (or the Arab interpolation ?) expressly states that the longitudinal axis of those mountains is developed in the equatorial direction along the parallel of 12' 30' S. The Kilimanjaro- Kenia group is, on the contrary, developed in a direction which departs little from the meridian, while that of Euwenzori has a trend nearly from S.S.AV. to X.N.E. Nevertheless, this at first sight most formidable objection may perhaps be overcome, or better, toned down with a consideration of general hydrography. We know that, in accordance with their direction relatively to that of the lines of water-parting, rivers are normally divided into transversal and longitudinal. The first have a trend perpendicular, or nearly so, to the main water-parting line, while the second are jjaiallel, or nearly so, to the same line. To which of these two categories belongs the course of the Upper Nile ? If we regard as a line of water-parting the undulating ground traversing Unyamweziland, and enclosing on the south the Upper Nile Ijasin, and more particularly' that of Lake Victoria, then the U^pper Nile will be classed amongst the transversal rivers. If, on the other hand, we take as main dividing lines either the steep eastern scarp of the great African tableland (the watershed towards the Indian Ocean), or else the series of heights separating Lake All)ert Edward, the Semliki valley, and Lake Albert from the Congo basin, then the Upper Nile will become a lontjitudinal river. Now, bearing in mind the decided trend of the Nile in the meridian direction, it is highly prolialile that we should incline rather to the first than to the second view, and accordingly place the region where the river rises in an u|)laiid tiact lunning perpendicularly to its trend, 293 The Rmvenzori Range. that is, from west to east. But at the same time, either owing to our knowledge of the existence of snowy peaks in that part of east eqiuitorial Africa, or else because of the generally admitted principle that the lai-ger rivers rise in the highest mountains, (-'■) those moderate undulations of the land were without more ado transformed to a gi'oup of gigantic highlands. We thus see how, despite their trend, quite different from the equatorial, the two groups of Kilimanjaro-Kenia and Kuwenzori, thanks to their great elevation, came to form part of the Mountains of the Moon. (-'•) To which of the two should the preference l)e given ? Respecting Kilimanjaro-Kenia, wo have to consider a fact of vast geological and hydrographic imjwrtance. The narrow strip of seaboard along the Indian Ocean, where prevail the Jurassic limestones and argillaceous schists, is followed westwards by a chain of isolated crystalline heights commonly designated by the name of the East African Schistose Mountains. West of this system we enter a zone highly remarkable for its great geological disturbances. It is distinguished alwve all by the great East African Kift Valley, a vast line of fissure nuuiing in the direction of the meridian, and extending for 40° of latitude from the Asphaltitea Lake (Dead Sea) all the May to Ugogo. The trough (in the east side is to lie regarded as a secondarv rift, above which rise Mounts Meru, Kilimanjaro, and pi-oliably also Kcni.i. The whole of this district west of the East African Schistose system sends none of its running waters either directly or indirectly tn tlic Indian Ocean. In other words, it is e.ssentially a landlocked continental region. (-") Thus, while the east slope of the Schistose Moiuitains is traversed liy streams tributary to the Indian Ocean, the few rivers of the west slope find no other outlet but the chain of lakelets which follow in the direction from noith to south .dong the meridian rift. The aforesaid Kilimanjaro-Kenia group stands therefore alisolutely outside the Lake Victoria and Somerset Nile basins. (-") It is otherwise with Kuwenzori, which, liy its east watershed not only l)elongs to the liasin of the Somerset Nile and of the regi(jn north-east of Lake AUiert Edward, liut also, by its south and west slopes, to the liasin of the same Lake Albert Edward, the Semliki and Lake Albert. Hence, if, as is jjrobable, there exists any orographic, if not geological, link between Kuwenzori and the group of Viruuga Mountains, which rise to the south and south-west of Lake Albert Edward to an altitude of 1.3,000 feet, the identification of this highland system with the Mount;iins of tlie Moon would be ail the more confii'med. This system is, in fact, the only one in the whole of eijuatorial Africa that completely satisfies all the conditions specified in Ptolemy's Geography, not even altogether excepting that of the general trend, wliich is precisely ■297 Appendix A. equatorial in the group of the Nfumbiro (properly Muhawura — " far seen " ) and Virunga Mountains, although these are far less elevated than Ruwenzori. (-'■') NOTES. (') This is tlie seventh chapter of Book IV. After imlicuting tlie geographical positions of the two lakes sources of the Xile, it would naturally occur to Ptoleniv to gire that of tlie more southern snowy mountains. But he does not do so, and onlv speaks of them incidentally in chapter 8 of the same book, where there is no further reference to the Egyptian river. (-) CooLEY, op. cil., pp. 77-78. (•') H. KlEPKRT, Lehrhvch der alien Georirajihif, p. 210, note 2. (^) Gcogi: Mil. 1892, Litteratiir-Bcricht, No. 40. (') Meteor. B.iok I, chap. 13. C) Hint'iire de la Geographie, pp. 109 ami 121 ; Le Nord dc VAfriqv^ dans VAiiliiinite grecqiie et romaine, pp. 21 and 486. {/) M.ilFATTI, Scritii geografici ed elnografici, p. 454. (*) See in this connection the iniportant considerations developed bv Ptolemy in chaps. 4 and 6 of Book I. (') The defects of this method, and the serious errors committed by Ptolemy in recasting and expanding the work of Marinus of Tyre, are excellently exhibited, with his usual clearness and shrewdness, by VlvlEN DE Saint-Martix {Hiittoire de la Oeographii; pp. 200 and 201). On Ptolemy's geographic system specially valuable are the pages devoted to this subject liy BrxBUEY in liis Histori/ of Aiicient Geographg (2nd edition. Vol. II, pp. 546-579). ("*) Very numerous instances of such numerical reductions arc found in tlie Geogrnphit. and especially in Book I. (") (30'5'x6°)x| = 30^4l5; 30° 5'-30°, 419=0°,085. ('-) Plol. Geogr., Book IV, chap. 7. Here is the confluence of the rivers that flow from the southern lakes ; long. 60°, lat. 2° N. (*■') Such is also the opinion of not a few modern getigraphers, amongst whom I have pleasure in mentioning Dr. Fklvx BARLTorx in one of his learned dissertations published in 1874. under the title, Doctrhifi Ptolciitaei ah injuria reveal iorinn viiidii-ata^ p. 31. 298 Tlie Eiiwenzori Range. ('■') "His (PtokMiiv's) hititudi's aiul loMf;it»dfS are cleiirly wortlilfss, pxceirt in so far as flu> former represent flie broad faet that these hikes, and therefore tlie sources of tlie NiU', were aetnally situated soutli of tlie equator." So Bunburt in the quoted work, Vol. II, pp. 814-15. V") Cape Aroniata is usually identified with Cape Guar.la/iii. Henut ScnLiciiTKK {Proc. of the Royal Geographical Society, 1891, p. 529), places it niucli farther south, and identifies it with Mai Asirad (hit. 4' 30' N.). Ca|)e Rhaptmn is placed by Ptolemy at one and a-lialf defiree from the eommereial emporium of Rhapta in the direction of the soutli. Touching its identity with any of the coast lieadlamls in that part of Africa, geographers are not quite of accord. Miiller places it at Ra.i Puna, Berlionx and Schlichter at Ka.t Mnmljamkii. Nor is it easy to indicate the position of the eommereial emporium of Eliapla, since it did no( lie on tlie coast, but somewhat inland. Still, as the Kiver Rhaptus of Ptolemy's Geography is most probably identical with the Pangani, not a few geographers place Rhapta on the lower course of that river. Bunbury (op. cit., p. 454), says that Rhapta stood at the head of the bay opposite Zanzibar, not far from Bagamoyo. ("■■) Geogi:, Book I, chap. 9. ('') Admitting that Rhapta corresponded to some place i>n (lie lower course of the Pangani, Ptolemy's latitude 7° S. would differ by 1° 30' from the actual, the mouth of the Pangani being at 5' 30'. If we locate Rhapta with Bunbury in the neighbourhood of Bagamoyo, the agreement will be almost jierfeet. In any cast', the nearly correct description of the eastern seaboard is easily ex]>lained when we remember that, as we know from tin- Periplns Marin Erylhraei and from tlie language of Ptolemy himself, the eoastlands north of Rhapta were at that time very veil kTiowu. ("*) See the foregoing note. ('-') Str.\BO, Oeogr., Book XVII, cliap. 1,1; Bkroer, Die gengraphixcheii Fragmevte dex Ji^ratoit/ieaei, Vol. I, p. 302 sq. P) Stanley, /» Darkest Africa, Vol. II, ]i. 270. (-') Proceedings of tlie Itayal Geograjiliieal Society, 1891, p. 550. (~) H. Schlichter ni Proceedings ofllie Royal Geographical Society, 1891, p. 534. P) Bunbury, History of Ancient Geography, Vol. II. (-■*) We know that the first notions regarding these gigantic momitains of East Africa hii of Easte<-n Ely a ])te(l, and even found formidable opponents, amongst whom Kaveustcin must l)c sju-ciallv meiilioned. The examination of the arguments advanced for and against would far exceed the modest limits to which I have eonliued myself in thesi' pages. I must rest satislieil with hi'iT {piotiiig tlie ojiiiiion expressed 300 The liuwenzori Eange. oil tlie subject by Sir Henry H. Johxston in liis recent work, The yUe Quest, p. 2S: " Tlie present writer is unable to understand why that able geograplier, Mr. E. G. Raveiistein, has dovibted the identification of Ruwcnzori witli Ptob'niy's Mountains of tlic Moon. It nnist be obvious, wlien all facts are considered, that Ruwcnzori was the principal germ of this idea. The Greek traders at Rhapta (Pangani) no doubt had sonic idea of the existence of Kiliman- aro, but it is doubtful whether cither the single dome of Kilimanjaro or the gleaming pinnacle of Kenia would impress the imagination so strongly as the whole hriUiant range of Euwenzori's four or five snow peaks and thirty miles of glaeiatiou." 201 APPENDIX B. ASTRONOMIC, GEODETIC AND METEORO- LOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. L— REPORT ON ASTRONOxMIC OBSERVATIONS, By p. CAMPIGLI. II.— GEODETIC OBSERVATIONS, By p. CAMPIGLI. III.— REPORT ON METEOROLOGICAL AND ALTIMETRIC OBSERVATIONS, By prof. 1). 0.\I01)i:i. In this note are coiitaineil the relations and caleiilations of the astronomic, meteoiologieal and geodetic observations which H.K.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi \\as able to carry out on the route from Entebbe to Bujongolo, and during the exploration of the Ruwenzori Range. The calculations relating to these observations, as well as the construction and plan of the topographic maps accompanying the present volume were executed at the Hydrographic Institute uf the Royal Navy at Genoa. The way liy which the astronomic and meteorological observations were made, from which were olitained the positions and altitudes of the various points indicated on the maps, as well as the methods of calculation employed, are all eml)odied in the accompanying special reports drawn up through the care of the Director of the said Institute, Mattia Giavotto, Captain of frigate, the sections dealing with the meteorology and the astronomic observations lieing prepared by Prof. Omodei and the " Capo-Tecnico " Sig. P. Campigli respectively. 305 I.— REPORT ON ASTRONOMIC OBSERVATIONS. By p. CAJiriui.i. The astronomic determinations made by H.R.H. the Duke of the Alutizzi on the route between Entebbe and Ruwenzori are the result of solar observations made with an aluminium sextant, which was constructed in the engineering workshop of the Xaval Hydrographic Institute at Genoa. Its graduated arc has a radius of 14-5 mm. (about 6 inches), being so subdivided as to show the 20 seconds on the vernier. Magnaghi's astronomic circle was used only in the very few cases where, for observations at the meridian or in its neighliourhood, the height of the sun was such as to make the use of the sextant less convenient. Of course, all measured heights were duplicated at an artificial mercurial horizon, care being taken to reverse the position of the roof at half of each series of observation;?, in order to lessen to the utmost the influence of errors in case the glasses of the said roof should eventually become prismatically affected. The calculations were carried out by means of logarithms of S decimals, tables of 7 decimals being used only in calculating the mean hour at Greenwich at the moment of emersion of B A C 81 from the lunar disk, as observed at midnight between the 11th and 12th July, 1906, at Bujongolo, the last astronomic station in the district nearest to the Ruwenzori uplands. The astronomic refraction r, corresponding to the considerable altitudes at which the astronomic observations were made during the journey, was calculated with Bessel's well-known formula : — /■ = log ('( tang :) + A (log B + log T) + log y, neglecting the factor A, for apparent zenith distances :, under 77^ and the factor A, besides A, for apparent zenith distances less than 45 . The values of the elements contained in the foregoing fornuila wore deduced fiom Albrecht's tables, 1894 edition. But the Table 34/, which gives the value of log B, only comprises barometric pressures between GOO and 7S0 mm. (24 and 31 inches), .307 X 2 A])pendix Jl whereas the expedition reached altitudes at which coiisideral>ly lower pressures had to 1)6 recorded ; hence, besides Albrecht's 34/' table the following was also calculated, and is here itiserted, as it may be found useful in other cases. Barom. logB. Barom. logB. Barom. logB. Barom. log B. Barom. logB. mm. mm. mm. mm. mm. 400 0 27387 440 0 ! 23248 480 0 194fi9 520 0 15993 560-0 12774 lO 27279 41 0 23149 81 0 19378 21 0 15909 61 0 12697 2 0 27170 42 0 23051 82 0 19288 22 0 15826 62 0 12619 3 0 270G2 43 0 22953 83 0 19198 23 0 15743 63-0 12542 4 0 26933 44 0 22865 84-0 19108 24 0 15660 64-0 12465 5-0 26847 45 0 22752 85 0 19019 25 0 15577 65-0 I238R 6 0 26740 46 0 22660 86 0 18929 26 0 15494 66 -0 12311 7 0 26634 47 0 22562 87 0 18840 27 0 15412 67 0 122S5 8 0 26527 48-0 22465 88 0 18751 28 0 15339 68-0 12158 9 0 26421 49 0 22368 89 0 18662 29 0 15247 69-0 12082 410 0 26315 450 0 22272 490 0 18573 530 0 15163 570-0 12006 11 0 26209 51 11 22175 91 0 18485 31 0 1.5084 71 0 11929 12 0 26103 52 0 22079 92 0 18396 32 0 15U02 72-0 11853 13 0 25998 53 0 21983 93 0 18308 33 0 14920 73 0 11778 14 0 2.5893 54-0 21887 94 0 18220 34 0 14844 74-0 11702 15 0 25788 55 0 21792 95-0 18132 35 0 14758 75-0 11626 16 0 25684 56-0 21697 96 0 18045 36 0 14677 76-0 11551 17 0 25579 57 0 21601 97 0 17957 37 0 14596 77-0 11475 18 0 25475 58 0 21506 98 0 17870 38 0 14515 78-0 11406 19 0 25372 59 0 21412 99 0 17783 39 0 14434 79-0 11325 420 0 25268 460 0 21317 500-0 17696 540 0 14354 580-0 11250 21 0 25165 61 0 21223 1 0 17609 41 0 14273 81-0 11175 22 0 25062 62 0 21129 2 0 17523 42 0 14193 82-0 11101 23 0 24959 63 0 21035 3 0 17436 43 0 14113 83-0 11026 24 0 24856 64 0 2094 L 4 0 17350 44 0 14033 84-0 10952 25 0 24754 65 0 20848 5 0 17264 45 0 13933 85-0 10877 26 0 24652 66 0 20754 6 0 17178 46 0 13874 86 0 10803 27-0 24550 67 0 20R61 7-0 17002 47-0 13794 87-0 10729 28 0 21449 68 0 20568 8 0 170U7 48-0 13715 88-0 10655 29 0 24347 69 0 20476 9 0 16921 49 0 13636 89-0 10581 430 0 24246 470 0 20383 510 0 168:6 550 0 13557 590 0 10508 31 0 24145 71 0 20291 11 0 16751 51 0 13478 91 -0 10434 32 0 24045 72 -u 20199 12-0 16666 52 0 13399 92 0 10361 33 0 23944 73 0 20107 13 0 16581 53 0 13320 93-0 10288 34-0 23844 74 0 20015 14 0 16497 54 -0 13242 94-0 10214 35 0 23744 75 0 19924 15 0 16412 55 0 13164 95-0 10141 36 0 23644 76 0 19832 16 0 16328 56 0 13086 96-0 10068 37 0 23545 77 0 19741 17 0 1K244 57 0 13088 97-0 9996 38 0 23444 78 0 19650 18 0 16160 58-0 12930 98-0 9923 39 0 23347 79 0 19559 19 0 16076 1 59 0 12852 99-0 9850 The value of log B, given in this table, is calculated with the formula: logB = log ({7-12407 - 10}//), in which li is the barometric pressure in millimetres. (1 nmi.= about .;,Lthinch.) 308 I. — Astronomic Observations. The expedition of H.K.H. was supplied with four pocket chronometers at mean time, and before starting on the journey these were kept under contml at the Hvdrographic Institute. During this period of control, the ahsolute and daily corrections recorded for the said chronometers at C of mean Greenwich time yielded the following results : — Place. Date, .Wean Lange Lange Longines Lougines 191 »j. time. 5l),.5oi(, K,. 5«,52U, K,. .560.229, K3. .56I1.2.-M, K,. Note. K,. Kj. K3. K.. Genoa 20 Feb. ll''-3;+9'-87 ■ -23«-73 . -12" -43 -.•)()■ -33 -0-27 -0-57 + i-:7 +0-91 26 ,, 11 -4 8 -26 -0-32 2T -14 -0-78 - 1 -79 1-65 25 -39 1-91 3 Mar. 12 -4 6 -66 -0-15 31 -04 -0-69 + 6 -46 2-03 15 -84 1-12 8 „ 14 -1 0 -93 -0-41 34 -47 +0-17 + 16 -88 1-16 10 -22 1-09 13 „ 14 -6 3 -88 SS ■«2 +22 -68 4 -77 -0-45 -0-6O 2-88 0-50 19 „ 14 -0 1 -20 +0-20 37 -20 -1-07 39 -95 2-67 1 -80 0-32 ,. 24 ■■ 12 -4 3 -22 42 -33 53 -32 0 -18 +0'01 -0-98 2-13 0-40 29 ., U -U 2 -29 -u-11 47 -31 + 0-11 i'»- .-i'-ag 2-19 1 -84 -0-13 3 Apr. — 1 -74 + 0-63 48 ■-•i -0-29 1 -14 -94 2 -SI 1 -19 + 1-00 In jHK'ket. 7 „ — J -29 47 -99 1 -26 -19 5 -19 + 0-29 -0-07 0-34 -4-38 Naples'' 14 „ ~ 6 -38 47 -52 2 -04 -68 36 -88 In train. After leaving Genoa, and more particularly during the voyage by steamer from Naples to Port Said, the chronometers were left unregulated. But at Port Said they were again set going, and on 20th April, 1906, compared with the chronometer at the Police Station, in order to record their absolute correction. On the 26th of the same month another comparison was effected at Jibuti with the chronometer of Tli/' Eljiliinstoiie of the Indian Navy, and on 4th May, yet another with the chronometer of the Post Office at Mombasa. \t Entebbe, thanks to steps previously taken, it was found possible on i2th May to make a fresh comparison liy wire with Mombasa, so that by means of these two comparisons was obtained a first diurnal correction of the chi'onometers to be used in the subsequent calculations. The elements of comparison appear in the record of the pocket chrono- meters included in the present Report. From it we find that at Mombasa, on 4th July, at noon, local time, there were the following absolute corrections on Greenwich mean time : Ki = + 3" 16" K., = + 3 26 + 3 34^-9 9 -0 10 -5 £09 Appendix B. On li'th May, at Entelihe (noon at Mombasa), we obtained, by the above- mentioned telegraphic comparison, as correction on the mean Greenwich time : Ki = + 3" 16" or- 0 Ko = + 3 25 52-0 Ivj = + 3 2 10 -5 From these elements we get the following diurnal corrections for the three chronometers : Bi = - 2^-762 B. = + 2 ■ 215 B., = + 3 • -137 The elements respecting the chronometer No. -t have been omitted because on 7th May, when the party reached Entebbe, that chronometer was stolen. The start for Euwenzori was made at Entebbe, capital of the I'^ganda Protectorate, and on the march some astronomical observations were made in order to fix the position of some points which were generallj' those of encamp- ments. Obviously it was not a ease in which too much reliance could be placed on the Greenwich time, as indicated by the chronometers during the period of one month of rough travelling, that being about the time occupied in reaching Bujongolo, last point where were obtained astronomical observations, and where were begiui the topographic operations for the survey of the Ruwenzori highlands. In order, however, to secure the greater or less efficiency of the chronometric observations, it was found expedient to observe, with the determination of the local time at Bujongolo, the emersion of B A C 81 from the lunar disk, with a view to calculating the hour of Greenwich time at the moment when the phenomenon was observed. During the march the chronometers were carried on his person l)y H.R.H., who kept them carefully wrapped up. This expedient should have reduced to a minimum the influence of the changes of temperature, if, during the hours of rest, when being replaced in their own boxes, they had not had to feel the effects of the temperature inside the tent. Such effects, though little different from those of the atmosphere, always differed greatly from those due to contact with the human l:)ody. Still, when we consider that the period of repose was daily repeated for aJjout the same length of time, it may he inferred that the daily recurring correction cannot have been affected by .serious error due to this cause. In any case it is to be regretted that of the three chronometers one alone displayed a sufficiently regular action, maintaining a fairly slight daily correction. This may easily be seen from the record of the chronometers. 310 I. — Astronomic ()bserv\ations. Here Nos. 2 and 3 point to irregularities in their movement. For this reason, and also Ijecause the daily comparisons were occasionally omitted, it was considered desirable to make use only of the indications of the No. 1 chronometer, which was in fact the one generally employed for the observations. With the -snew of fi.xing, if only approximately, the daily correction of the Xo. 1 chronometer for the period of the journey, the calculation of the astronomic elements of Bujongolo was taken in hand, and here were recorded determinations of time between 11th and 2sth June, taking the latitude at (p = 0' 20' 16" X., roughly obtained from the already determined elements. The corrections of the No. 1 chronometer on the mean local time were for Bujongolo : 11th June, 3" 40" *■ . 3 43 .. Ob.. ^. No . 32 33 3 48 34 3 49 3.5 26th 1) 19 19 37 19 23 38 27th ?T 19 38 39 19 43 40 28th ») 20 23 20 27 41 42 = + 5" IS" 39»- 1 = + 39 ■ 1 = + 35 ■ 5 = + 34 •6 = + 5 15 33 • 0 = + 31 • 9 = + 5 15 29- 9 = + 32 0 = + 5 15 26- 8 „ - + 29-4 From the mean of the results for 11th and 2Sth June respectively, we get, omitting the intermediate observations : 11th June, 3" 45"" C,„. = +5'' 1.5'" 37^-1 28th „ 20 25 „ = + 5 15 28 -1 Interval H""'-' 16" 40"' Difference 9^0 Hence : B = - 0=-509. The change occurring in the mean daily correction of this chronometer is seen to be considerable, if the value just found be compared with that previously obtained at P^ntebbe ( - 2^'762). But now we merely require an appro.ximate value of the longitude of Bujongolo foi' the calculation of the emersion of B A C 81, and this will give us the absolute longitude of that same point. Hence we take the by no means arbitrary course of adopting, as mean daily correction of the No. 1 chronometer during the journey, the mean of the two daily corrections obtained at Entebbe and at Bujongolo, that is to sav : B, = - ^'■^^■' + 0"^Q9 ^ ^..g3_ * The date is astronomic, and the hour is referred to the mein local time . 311 Appendix B. Referring the observations of the 26th, 27th and 28th June to the date of those of the 11th, and using the daily correction - 0*-509 we get, by applying the just found mean daily correction 1*"635, the following values for the longitude of Bujongolo : 11th June. — Sun at AV. A=l» 59" .53^ 8 KG 11th )j )) )) ,, = 53 5 j» 11th )» ») )» J) ~ 49 9 it 11th ,, ,, ,, )) 49 0 )t 26th n Sua ;it E. )j ^^ 55 5 »5 26th >) )' ?i yj 54 3 )5 27th )) )) J) J) ^ 52 8 1) 27th »5 ••) )) »i 54 9 ») 28th )» »» >• ?j ~ 50- 2 )) 28th J) )» )5 = 52 • 8 )» Grouping these results for each single day of observation we get : Bujongolo.— 11th Jime X = 1" Sg-" 5P-5 26th 27 th 28th 54-9 53-8 51-5 Disregarding further considerations as to weight, and given the degree of approximation now required, the mean of these data is : Bujongolo \ = li^ 59" 52'-9 E.G. This value is used in calculating the Greenwich time at the moment of the emersion of B A G 81 from the lunar disk, which phenomenon occiu'red on 11th July under most favourable conditions for observation. The determina- tions of the horary angle, obtained for this occasion with the view of ascertaining the state of the chronometer respecting the mean local time, gave the following results : jongolo : 10th July 2P 18". ..01 IS. No .47. Sun at E. C,„,= +5" 15-" 33-0 10th 21 20 48 J) „ = + 32-3 nth 20 01 56 J) „ = +5 15 34-9 11th 20 03 57 j« „ = + 33-7 11th 20 07 58 )) „ = + 32-4 11th 20 11 59 )5 „ = + 32 • 9 12th IS 08 60 ,, „ - +5 15 34-4 312 I. — Astronomic Observations. Although this completely agrees with thu mean teiiour of the other results, the last value is for the present neglected, and, after olitaining the mean of each day, we get as general mean : 11th July, 8" 42"' C„„= +5" 15" 33=- 1. From the observations taken at Bujongolo during the days following our arrival we had (see p. 311) : 28th June, 20" 25"' C„„= + S" 15"" 28»-l. Hence for this interval of 12-52 days we obtain the diurnal correction : K=+0'-398 with which we get : 12th July, 0" of local time C,„. = + S" 1 5"" 33^-3 Moment of Occultation „ = +5*" IS" 33''-2 With this element and with the approximate longitude already cjbtained, we proceed to a first calculation of mean Greenwich time at the moment of emersion of B A C 81 from the lunar disk, the moment when the No. 1 chronometer indicated 10" 14™ 4* (Olis. No. 55). From the first approximation we got : Bujongolo \ = P 59"" 59"- 2 E.G. The calculation for a second approximation, in which account was also taken of the terms of second order, only \ery slightly modified the result. Thus : Bujongolo \ = 1" 59" 59'- 33 E.G. As, however, the value of the longitude thus obtained might be seriously affected liy even a slight error in the lunar co-ordinates given by the ephemerides, we consulted some astronomic observers in order to ascertain whether, about the time when the expected occultation took place, any oliservations of lunar cnlminations had concurrently lieen made. This was done in order to introduce into the calculation the error of the position of the moon. Prof. Millosevich, Director of the Observatory of the Collegio Romano, in Rome, having undertaken the determination of the longitude of Tripoli, where the astronomer. Dr. Bianchi, was obser^•ing transits of the moon at meridian, proceeded to take observations of lunar culminations at the Collegio Romano from the 2nd to the 7th July, 1906. From these he obtained for 11th July— time of the occultation — a correction for the right ascension of the moon= -i-0*-18, and this agrees perceptilily with that communicated to us by Greenwich for the same date = + 0^'20. It may be mentioned that Greenwich also supplied us with the cori-ection for that date of the lunar dediniition = + P-8. 313 Appendix B. Hence the same Prof, ilillosevich advised us to assume with full confidence the corrections for the lunar co-ordinates received from Grei'invich, and these yielded the longitude for Bujongolo : \ = 2" 0"' G"-3 E.G. This again agrees closely with the value 2'' 0" G^'O East Greenwich, obtained liy Prof. Millosevich, who was also good enough to make the same calculation. The latitude was obt;iined from two meridian altitudes and from two series of circummeridians (Obs. Nos. 38, 43, 44, 46, and 49 to 54), observed partly by H.R.H. and partly by Commander Cagni. Between the results of the two observers there occurs a considerable difference, the origin of which may 1)6 attributed to some anomaly of refraction. In fact, H.R.H. was in this instance induced to depart from his practice of observing the lower liml> of the sun, owing to an unusual optic phenomenon which caused him to notice on the lower edge of the reflected image a false liml) which would not have allowed a good observation. Hence the discrepancy in the results is to be attriliuted to this particular state of the atmosphere. Therefore, in order to prevent the observations of H.R.H., which were the more numerous, from too greatly influencing the results, the mean of the circummeridian series was first obtained, and the resulting value taken as a mean with the results of the meridian observations. The se^'eral values thus obtained are : 17th June. — Meridian — Commander Cagni 0 = 0' 19' 50" N. 9th July. — „ —H.R.H. „ = 0 20 55 „ 10th ,, — Circummerid. — Commander Cagni ,,= 0 19 52 ,, Uth „ —Meridian — H.K.H. „ = 0 20 54 „ These data yielded for Bujongolo 0 = 0= 20' 23" X. With the longitude of Bujongolo is obtained the alisobite correction of the chronometer for the period of arrival at that encampment, and subsequently the mean daily correction of the same chronometer for the period occupied by the journey. Thus was oI)tained : Bujongolo.— 19th June, 3" 4.5" ... C,„= + 5" 1.5"' 37=-l ... X =+-2 0 6-3 Ki=-f3 15 30-8 This absolute correction on mean Greenwich time corresponds with the date of 11th June at 3'' 45'" of mean local time. And as at Entebbe on 11th May, at 23" 31" of mean local time, we had K, = 3" 16" 34^- 9, we shall 314 I.— Astronomic Observations. get, taking Mccount of the ditFerence of longitude between Bujongolo and Entel>l)e ( -|- 9™ 45"), the daily mean correction K, = — 2"- 123, which we shall utilize for the determinations of position made in the pei'iod from 11th Maj' to 11th June. Owing to an unforeseen circumstance, on the return journey, and after the arrival of the expedition at Fort North Portal, the No. 1 chronometer under- went, like the others, a perceptible change in its movement. This was due to a considerable delay which occurred in winding it, so that once it was necessary to proceed to the revision of the longitude of Fort Portal which had been determined on the outward journey. On the return, the conveyance of Greenwich time from Bujongolo will lie limited to this intermediate point, since, owing to the above-mentioned change in the movement of the chrono- meter, it would be impossible to convey said time to Enteblie for purposes of control. Retaining the vahie of the daily correction just found (Kj = — 2' • 123) as a quantity proportional to the time, and with the (approximate) latitude of Fort Portal = 0' 39' 20" N., we get the value of the longitude from four series of altitudes (Obs. Nos. 17, is, 19, and 20), obtaining: Fort Portal.— 31st May. X = 2i' 1'" 32^-2 E.G. >J >1 >) =^ ol ■?> ,, )» )) J5 '^ ^ A „ and as mean : Fort Portal A. = 2'' 1"' 32^-5 E.G. a value which is adopted as the longitude of said place. The latitude of Fort Portal is obtained from a series of three circum- meridians observed on 31st May, and from meridian altitudes of 22nd and 28th July (Obs. Nos. 21, 22, 23, 75, and 86). The mean of the five results yielded for : Fort Portal <^ = 0'' 39' 28" N. a value which difters little from that employed for the calculation of the longitude. Using the longitude just found, we get the absolute correction of No. 1 chronometer at Fort Portal (return journey) by means of eight series of oljservations, as under ; Fort Portal.- 2 1st .hi]y, i'' 11'"... Obs. No. 73; K, = -H 3" 1.5'" 16'- 1 4 18 „ 74; „ = 15-9 19 53 „ 76; „ = 17-5 19 55 „ 77; „ = 16-5 315 Appendix B. IS. No. 78 ; Ki - 3" 15"' 18- ■8 79; 11 ^^ 20' 1 „ 80; )i ^^ 22 ■ 6 81; 11 ^^ 22 ■ 2 Fort Portal. — 22nd July, 19'' SB"" 22iul „ 19 5.5 23rd „ 20 6 23rd „ 20 8 Of this the mean for the double .series required by the al)ove-mentioned inversion of the ghiss roof of the artificial horizon is : 21. St July, -IMS'" ... K,= +3''15"' 16^-0 21st „ 19 54 „ = + 17-0 22nd „ 19 54 „ = + 19-5 23rd „ 20 7 „ = + 22-4 Referring these values to the date coinciding with the first of them, and noting the hour indicated l)y the chronometer, we get : 21st July (civil)— (p.m.) : /, = 10'' 57"' 49^..Kl = 3l' 15'" 15'-8 as the mean on Greenwich mean time. From the determinations of the time at Bujongolo on the 10th, 11th, and 12th July (astronomic dates), the results of which have been given at p. 312, we obtain the absolute correction of No. 1 chronometer. Eefening all the values to the date of the last, and passing from the absolute correction of the chronometer to the absolute correction on Greenwich, we get : 13th July (civil)— (a.m.) : ^, = 2'' 51'" 6^..K, = 3l■ l-S"' 28*-4 from which in the interval lietween the 13th and 21st July the daily correction of the chronometer is found to be : Kj = - 1-521. As already stated at p. 315, on the return journey the chronometers at Fort Portal varied consideralily through lack of control, .so that, before leaving this place, we proceeded to the determination of their correction by means of six series of altitudes, the results being : Ki = + 3" 32"' 57"- 6 51-0 59-5 „ = 59-9 64-8 64-7 The disagreement of the second series induced us to abandon it, the influence of some error in the observations being obvious. 316 27th July. -Obs. No .82; /,= 10'' 20" 11 27th „' 83; ,,-10 23 0 28th „ 84; „= 2 21 0 28th „ 85 ; „ = 2 23 8 31st „ 87 ; „ - 10 25 44 31st „ 88; ,, = 10 27 53 I. — Astronomic Observations. Referring the daily values of the absolute correction to the mean date of the values of the last double series we get : 31st July (civil) (p.m.), t.. = 10'' 26"' 48'. ..K; - + 3" 33"' S'^- 0 which represents the absolute correction of the chronometer on Greenwich time before starting on the return journej' from Fort Portal to Entebbe. On reaching the latter place it was found impossible to get a new telegraphic comparison with Mombasa, as on the outward journey. Hence proceeded to the determination of the absolute correction of the chronometer, using for Entebbe the longitude 2'' 9™ 47' East Greenwich given us by the competent local authority. The result was : 16th August.— Obs. No. 110 ; /, = 10" 29"" 7' ... K, = + S*- 33-" 29"- 9 16th „ ,, 111 ; ,, = 10 31 13 „ = 28-5 17th „ „ 112; „= 2 43 .5.5 „ = 25-2 17th „ „ 113; „- 2 46 1 „ = 23-8 AVe see (( /'cw/i that in this interval of little over 16 hours the movement of the chronometer indicates a strong variation, such as had never occurred during the whole journey. Instead of taking the mean of these values, it was thought expedient to use the restdts alone of the two series of 16th August observed immediately after the arrival at Enteb1>e. From these we get : 16th August (civil), (p.m.) ; lO^' .-iO'" 10'. ..Kj = + 3'' 3.3'" 29'- 2 so that the daily correction of the ehronnmeter to lie used in the interval from 31st July to 15th August was : Ki = + p-510. The question now was to see what degree of confidence might l)e placed in the daily corrections which had so far been obtained. From the fact tliat the longitude of a few points was determined lioth on the outward and the return journey, we were offered a means of control which, if it stood alone, woidd not be absolutely safe, since it was alwaj-s possible that the erroi'.s liy which the accepted daily corrections might be afteeted might lie such, in magnitude and sign (plus or minus), as to lead to longittidinal results apparently concordant though really very incorrect. As, however, there were several points determined under such conditions, so that in some cases we could ascertain the degree of concordance in the longitudinal residts, from this might be inferred Vioth the practical value of the daily corrections that had been adopted, and the measure of confidence that might be placed in the positions obtained from the astronomic observations. 317 Appendix B. The position of Ibanda, a place lying bstween Bajoiigolo and Fort Portal, was determined both on going and returning. From four meridian altitudes {Obs. Nos. 27, 65, 66, and 67), we obtained for this point the latitude 0 = 0° 19' 59" N., and from this were deducsd the following longitudinal values : — On the outward journey : Ibanda Obs. No. 28 A = 2'' 0" 4-t'-0 E.G. .. 29 „= 43-1 „ On the return journey : Ibanda. — Obs. Nt>. Mean ,, = = 2'' 0'" 43 '5 »i 62 \-2» Qm 43'- 9 E.G. 6;i )» ~ 41 •5 „ 64 yt 42 •5 „ 68 )) ~ 42 •7 ., 69 >J ~ 43 ■5 „ Mean „ = 2" 0"" 42'- 8 „ Such is the agreement between these two results that we may even disregard all considerations as to the weights to be adopted for the values ■obtained, whether as regards the number of concurrent observations, or the length of time during which Greenwich time had to be conveyed. In this case there intervened 22 days for the determination of longitude on going (that is, Greenw^ich time was conveyed for 22 days), compared with a mean of about 5 days of conveyance for the determination madj on our return. Moreover, given the degree of accuracy that may be required, allowing for the available means and the limited time at the disposal of the expedition, we found it advisable to adopt as the value of the longitude of Ibanda the mean of the two results, namely : Ibanda A = 2i' 0'" 43^-2 E.G. In the district between Entebbe and Port Poi'tal there are two other points which offered the same conditions, and which consecjuently contributed to supply means of control. For Kichiomi, which is one of these two points, we ol)tained by the observation of a meridian altitude both going and returning 7°'53-9 „ (Lake Isolt) ,, = 31-58' 28" „ 319 Appendix B. Bimbi/c. — Latitude determined liy two meridian altitudes (going and returning, Obs. Nos. 4 and 107) ; longitude l\v two series of altitudes (return, 01)S. Nos. 108 and 109). 20th May '■^ = 0- 31' .56" N. 10th August „=0 31 .57 „ 11th „ \ = 2'' 7»26=-l E.G. 11th „ „ = 2 7 26-4 „ Biml.ye 0 = 0° 31' .56" N. ... \ = 2" T" 26»- 3 „ „ = 3r5r3-t" „ Kijciiiiila. — Latitude determined by a meridian altitude (leturn, Obs. No. 106), the longitude being estimated at 2'' 6" E.G. Kijcinnhi. — 9th August 0 = 0° 35' 55" N. MmhiiiM. — Latitude obtained by a meridian altitude (going, Obs. No. 5), and longitude by two series of altitudes (going, 01)s. Nos. 6 and 7) : 23rd May 0 = 0 36' 19" N. ... X = 2" 5"' -iO'- 3 E.G. „ = 2 5 40 • 9 „ Muduma 0=- 0° 36' 19" N. ... X = 2 5 40 • 6 „ „= 31 25' 9" Kadha. — Position determined on the return : Latitude, by a meridian altitude (Olis. No. 103); longitude by two series of altitudes (Obs. Nos. 104 and 105) : 8th August 0 = 0 40' 34" N. ... X = 2'> 5-" 53^- 2 E.G. 8th „ „ = 2 5 50-8 „ Kasiba 0 = 0° 40' 34" N. ... X = 2'" 5" 52^- 0 ,, = 31 28'0" Lwaiinttukuza. — Latitude obtained by two meridian altitudes, one going the other returning (Obs. Nos. 8 and 102) ; longitude by a series of altitudes going (Obs. No. 9) : 24th .May 0 = 0° 31' 4" N. ... X = 2" .5™ 1 6^- 5 E.G. 7th August „ = 0 30 27 „ Lwamutukuza 0 = 0° 30' 45" N. ... x = 2'' 5"° 16=-5 ,, = 31 19' 7' 320 I. — Astronomic Observations. Kaiho. — Latitude determined by ;i circummeridiiui altitude going and four returning (Obs. Nos. 18, 91, 92, 93, and 94); longitude results from two series of altitudes on return (Obs. Nos. 95 and 96) : 27th May 0 = 0° 29' 56" N. 2nd August „ = 0 30 36 „ ... ,\ = 2" S" 7«- 8 E.G. 2nd „ „..0 30 09 „ ... „ = 2 3 7-9 „ 2nd „ „ = 0 29 26 „ 2nd ;, „ = 0 30 U „ Kaibo 0 = 0° 30' 4" N . ... \ = 2'" 3"" 7"- 9 E.G. ,, = 30° 46' .58" „ Bniiti. — Using the latitude estimated at 0 = 0 39' 30 ", the longitude is obtained liy two series of altitudes observed on the return (Obs. Nos. 89 and 90) : 1st Atigust \ = 2" 2"" 34»- 3 E.G. l«t „ „ = 2 2 34-8 „ Butiti \ = 2" 2"" 37"- 5 „ = 30° 38' 37" IhiiDona. — With the approximate value \ = 2'' l"" 17^ East Greenwich, the latitude is calculated by a meridian altitude observed on going (01)s. No. 24) : 1st June.— Dmvona 0=0° 33' 25" N. Bu/aniika. — Latitude determined on the return liy a meridian altitude (Obs. No. 70) ; and longitude by two series of altitudes (Obs. Nos. 71 and 72) : 20th July 0 = 0° 26' 33" N. ... \ = 2M"'4»-1 E.G. 20th „ „ = 2 14-6 „ Butanuka 0 = 0° 26' 33" N. ... X = 2'> 1"" 4''-4 „ ,, = 30° 16' 6" „ Bikmujn. — Longitude oljtained by two series of altitudes on going, using 0=0° 20' 20" N. obtained from the maps (Obs. Nos. 30 and 31) : 4thJiuie A = 21' 0'" 27^-0 E.G. = 20 27-2 XaUtawa. — Obtaining from the maps the latitude 0 = 0° 20' 20" N., the longitude was had by a single series of altitudes at the artificial horizon without roof (Obs. No. 61) : Nakitawa \ = 2'> 0™ 19^-6 E.G. ,, = 30° 4' 54" „ 321 Y Appendix B. Summary of the geographical positions obtained Ijy astronomic observations taken during the outward and return journey between Entebbe and Bujongolo. Places. Geographical Position. Latitude North. Longitude E.G. Bujongo (Lake Isolt) 0 25 44 31 58 28 Bimbye 0 31 56 31 51 34 Kijennila ... 0 35 55 Muduma ... ... 0 36 19 31 25 9 Kasiba 0 40 34 31 28 0 Lwamutukuza 0 30 45 31 19 7 Kichiomi 0 31 20 31 6 40 Muyongo 0 30 41 30 58 54 Kaibo 0 30 4 30 46 58 Butiti 30 38 37 Fort Portal 0 39 28 30 23 7 Duwona 0 33 25 Butanuka ... 0 .36 33 .30 16 6 Kasongo 30 15 9 Ibanda 0 19 59 30 10 48 Bihunga 30 6 46 Nakitawa 30 4 54 Bujongolo ... 0 20 23 30 1 34 322 REGISTEII OF THE ASTRONOMIC 0B8Eli\'ATI0NS. 32;? y .J Appendix B. KEGISTER OF THE Civil Date, 190H. O Observer. Place. Latitude JS. S d C ''^ ^ 9 "M ^1 Locgitiide Barom. ■^^ . n^ E.G. mm. *0 3 f^-! fc o 7 M ""HJ .2=^ r O en u H^ H ^ ^-^ 19th Mav H.R.H. 201 h May 23rd May 24tli May 25tli May 26tli May 10 11 12 13 14 Bu.iongo (nr.Lake Isolt) Bimbye ... Muduma Lwamutvi- kuza Kichiomi Muyongo Wonyongo h. m. 8. 2 7 54 0 25 4i 2 7 26 2 5 41 0 36 19 0 30 45 0 31 20 0 30 41 2 5 16 2 4 27 2 3 56 663 9 661 0 )> 666 8 658 0 654 -5 11 657 ■3 656 0 653 •55 652 •0 6.58 •0 657 •0 } 26 0 31 0 24 0 29 0 26 0 22-0 23 0 22-0 22 0 28-0 28-0 23-5 24-5 29 0 22 0 24-0 24 -0 24 0 25 0 25-0 OA OAa OAv OA OA OAa OAv OA OAa OA OAa OA OAa OAv 324 I. — Astronomic Observations. ASTEOXO.MIC OBSERVATIONS. Conditions under whicli the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. - u o 5> u o ■a o Si Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. Sun 0 PS o r It 141 6 20 + 1 0 h. m. s. h. m. s. (f>=0"25'44"N. Sun 11 to W 53 0 0 52 40 0 52 20 0 + 1 20 10 38 31 -0 1 + 3 16 19-7 1 h. m. p. U=2 7 53-4E.G Sun 0 to W 52 0 0 51 40 0 51 20 0 + 1 20 10 40 36 0 41 22-5 42 7 0 1 + 3 16 19-7 "I h. m. 8, •A = 2 7 54-5 E.G. Sun <> PS 140 52 30 + 1 20 .... .() = 0"31'56"Jf. Sun 0 P.S 139 47 20 + 1 40 <^=0°36'19" X. Sun I> lo W 50 20 0 50 0 0 49 40 0 + 1 45 10 40 31 -0 47 17 0 47 58 -5 1 + 3 16 ! 1 -2 h. m. s. U = 2 5 40-3 E.G. Sun 0 to W 49 20 0 49 0 0 4S 40 0 + 1 45 10 48 J2 -0 49 24 -5 50 8 0 1 + 3 16 11 -2 "1 li. m. s. Va = 2 5 40 -9 E.G. Sun 0 PS 1.39 14 20 + 1 0 (;> = 0'31' 4"N. Sun 11 to W 43 20 0 43 0 0 42 40 0 + 1 0 U 1 .57 0 2 48 -0 3 18 0 1 + 3 16 9 0 !i. m. s. K = -l 5 16-5 E.G. Sun 0 PS 133 50 20 + 2 0 ((. = 0°30'47"X. Sun 11 to W 52 0 0 51 40 0 + 10 10 43 59 0 44 J 3 0 1 + 3 16 6-9 h. m. s. ■\ = 2 4 27 -3 E.G. Sun 0 Cir- cunnn. 138 28 40 + 1 50 16 35 25 0 I + 3 16 5-2 ^ = 0 30' 51" N. J, 138 25 49 „ 16 40 30 0 1 + 3 16 5-2 (|) = 0''30'30"N. Sun 0 to W 44 0 0 43 40 0 43 20 0 + 2 10 11 1 48-5 2 33 0 3 18 0 1 + 3 16 4-8 li. m. s. .\ = 2 3 .36-5 E.G. Sun il to W 43 0 0 42 40 0 42 0 0 + 2 10 11 4 00-0 4 43 -0 5 29 0 1 + 3 16 4-8 h. m. 8. .\ = 2 3 55 -8 E.G. .325 Appendix B. CiTil Date, Z 1906. J Observer. Place. Latitude Lonaitude Barom. X. E.G. mm. 21 ill S o P = 1^ (5^ 27th May 16 H.K.H. Kaibo r , „ h. m. j. 2 3 8 652 -0 0 24-0 23-6 OA 3l5t May •1 17 IS 19 20 Fort Portal » 0 39 28 »» 610 -0 22-0 21-0 OAa OAv OAa OAv 2 1 32 641 -0 22 -0 21 -0 OA 1st Jane 2nd June 3rd June 23 24 26 28 29 Duwona .... 2 1 17 636 4 24 "O 24 "0 OA I Kazongo 0 21 30 ... 649 -0 , 26 "0 27 "0 OA A OAv Ibanda 0 19 59 2 0 43 ' 652-8 26-5 I 25 5 OA 650-0 25 -0 23 -0 OA A „ OA V 326 I. — Astronomic Observations. Condilions under which the Aster was observed . Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of tlie Chronometer. 43 Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. C / II . „ h. ni. 3. h. m. s. Sun o Cir- 138 (i 0 + 1 40 6 36 29 0 1 + 3 16 8-2 .(> = 0° 29' 56" N. ciimni. Siiti t) to E 36 14 40 + 2 20 1 .58 5-0 1 + 3 15 .54-9 1 '•• U = 2 36 35 W) 36 52 20 58 50-0 59 28 0 m s. 1 32 -2 E.G. 37 2 40 59 50 0 Sun 0 to E 37 20 40 37 45 40 38 4 20 38 15 40 + 2 20 2 0 28 0 1 24 0 2 3 0 a 29-5 1 + 3 15 •54-9 Y" m. s. 1 31 -8 E.G. Sun 0 to E 54 20 0 54 40 0 55 0 0 55 20 0 + 2 20 2 37 37 0 38 19 -5 39 6 0 39 49 -5 1 + 3 15 .54-9 iji m. s. 1 :u 1 K .G. Sun 0 to E 60 9 0 60 18 20 61 14 20 + 2 20 2 50 22 0 50 44-0 52 47 -0 1 + 3 15 .j4-8 h. U = 2 III. s. 1 34 -7 E.G. Sun 0 Cir- 134 31 40 + 1 0 6 8 50-0 1 + 3 15 55 0 (f) = 0" 38' 45" X. ciimiii. )» 134 54 20 + 1 0 6 11 0 0 1 9J <(> = 0 39' 49" X. ») 135 1 40 + 1 0 6 11 59 0 1 »» <))=!0' 39' 7" N. Sun 0 PS 136 38 40 + 2 20 <() = 0° 33' 25" N. Sun 0 to W 42 20 0 42 3 40 41 51 20 + 1 20 11 8 35 0 9 12 0 9 38 0 1 + 3 15 49-9 h. ni. s. 1 0 -8 EG. Sun 0 to W 41 28 20 41 18 0 41 51 40 + 1 20 11 10 29 0 10 52 -0 11 51 0 1 + 3 15 49 9 y. m. s i 0-4 E.G. Sun 0 PS 135 39 20 + 1 30 ^ = 0° 19' 26" N. Sun 0 to W 44 0 0 43 40 0 43 20 0 + 1 30 11 5 16 0 6 10 6 44-0 1 + 3 15 47-8 y m. s. 0 44-0 E.G. Sun 0 to W 43 0 0 42 40 0 42 20 0 + 1 30 11 7 30-0 8 12 0 8 56-0 1 + 3 15 47-7 1 ''■ U = 2 m. s. 0 43 1 E.G. 327 Appendix B. Cifil ])ate, 1906. Observer. Place. Lalilude N. 2 c rz o a 2 <] ct_> .2 Longitude Barom. '2 <0 1^ E.G. mm. o o = = .2 n .2=^ 2 S ?0 H = E-"^ ^^ 4tli June lltli June 17th .June 27tli June 28th June 30 31 32 33 31. 35 36 37 38 39 40 H.E.H. Bihunga Cora. Cagni Bujongolo 0 20 20 0 20 23 0 20 23 h. m. 8. 2 0 6 611-0 4S8-4 488-3 489-2 490-0 20-0 6 0 5-0 5-0 7-0 20-0 4-0 5-0 6 0 6-8 1» )) OAA CAv OAa OAv OAa OAv OA OAA OAv OAA OAv 328 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under wliicli the .Aster ■\vas observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. O 4> 5 Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. Sun 0 to W 47 20 0 47 0 0 46 40 0 + 0 50 h. m. s. 10 .58 22 -0 £9 6 0 53 49 0 1 h. m. a. + 3 15 45-7 h. ni. s. A = 2 0 27 0 E.G. S.m 0 to W 46 20 0 46 0 0 45 40 0 + 0 50 11 0 34 0 1 18-0 2 2 0 1 + 3 15 45-7 h. ni. s. ■ \ = 2 0 27-2 E.G. Sun 0 to AV P3 33 20 63 14 40 62 50 20 + 1 25 10 23 26 0 24 9-0 25 4 0 1 • h. ni. s • C,„,= +5 15 39 1 Sun 0 to "W 62 19 40 62 8 40 (!1 54 40 + 1 25 10 26 11 0 26 39 0 27 7-5 1 1 h. m. s. lC..,„= +5 15 39 1 Sun 11 to \V 60 0 0 59 40 0 + 1 25 10 31 30 0 32 14 0 1 .... , h. m. s. . C„„ = + 5 15 35 -5 Sun 0 to W 59 20 0 59 0 0 + 1 25 10 33 0 0 33 45 0 1 , li. m. 3. •C„„= + 5 15 .34-6 Sun 0 PS 133 22 23 + 2 20 ,p = (f 19'50"N. Sun 11 to E 34 21 0 34 38 40 34 59 0 35 14 30 35 38 20 + 3 40 2 2 36 -5 3 17 -5 4 0 0 4 36 0 5 27 0 1 1 h. ni. s. yC„„=+5 15 33-2 1 J Sun 0 to E 36 9 0 36 22 40 36 35 40 36 48 0 37 4 10 + 3 40 2 6 36 -5 7 6 0 7 33 0 8 0 0 8 37 0 1 1 h. m. s. ;.C„„=+5 15 31-9 Sun 0 loE 43 5 20 43 17 20 43 30 40 43 47 0 43 56 20 + 3 20 2 22 6-0 22 33 0 23 3-5 23 380 24 0 0 1 Ii. m. s. ^C»„=+5 15 29-9 1 J Sun 0. to E 44 26 0 44 38 40 45 0 0 45 21 0 45 41 50 45 58 40 46 22 0 + 3 20 2 25 5 0 25 33 0 26 18-0 27 4 0 27 50-0 28 26 -0 29 20-0 1 ^1 li. m. s. .C,„,= +5 15 32-0 J 329 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. -a u o 1 u o i3 3 Observer. riacc. Latitude N. Longitude E.G. Baroui. mm. Thermom. an. nexed (Celsius). Temp, of the Air (Celsius). P O / It li. m. 8. o q 29th June 41 Com. C.igni Bujongolo 0 20 23 489-7 5-6 5-6 OA A >. 42 n '» ij ■■ " " OA V 9tli July 43 S.A.R. 2 0 6 489-5 13 0 no OA 10th July 44 Com. Cugni t »» 488-5 8-2 9 0 OA »» 45 »» »> 11 46 )» :i 2 0 6 488-5 8-2 9-0 OA 11th .July 47 HR.H. }) 0 20 23 489-7 6 0 6-0 OAA It 48 " »l )i )) " )> OAv .. 49 J) >J 2 0 6 488-5 7 0 6 0 OA ■• 50 >• ■' '> >) >i ■■ )1 >J 51 " " JJ >' " }) J) 52 !) •> » » •• " )) »> 53 )) ii )» J) )> )) J» » 54 " )i )> >' n J» »» 330 I.- — Astronomic Observations. o Zi 11 Conditions under which the Aster was observed. Instrumental Heisilit. Instrumenl of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. 1" O / // / // h. m. s. h. m. s. Sun 0 to E 62 46 40 + 1 .52-5 3 6 12 0 1 > 63 3 40 0 50-0 h. m. s. 63 17 0 7 19 0 ■ C„„= +5 15 26-8 63 36 0 8 3 0 63 57 0 8 50 -5 J Sun 0 to E 64 37 0 64 53 0 65 17 40 65 36 0 65 47 0 + 1 52-5 3 10 19 -5 10 53 o 11 52 0 12 28 0 12 58 0 1 h. m. s. -C„„=+5 15 29-4 Sun 0 PS 136 17 40 + 1 0 =0'' 20' 55" N. Sun 0 Cir- 135 9 49 + 10 6 39 5 -0 1 + 3 13 26-0

=0° 20' 4G"X. eumni. Sun 0 Cir- 136 41 0 + 1 50 6 54 44 -5 0 = 0- 20' 32" X. eumni. 331 Appendix B. U £ a Civil Date, 19U6. o t o s 3 Observer. Place. Latitude N. Longitude JC.G. Barom. mm. Thermom. an- nexed (Celsius). 1 Temp, of tlio Ai (Celsius). ~ S o o ■aw 11 O / If h. m. s. o o 12th July 55 Com. Ca^i Bujongolo 0 20 23 a 56 H.E.H. n " 2 0 6 489-2 9-0 9-0 OA A n 57 58 )1 )> H OA A OA A )> 59 " J) JI J» 1) »» >] OA A » 60 Com. Cagni " " ■• 489 0 7-0 7-0 OA 14tli July 61 )) Nakitavva 0 20 20 562 -85 17-0 15 0 OA leth July 62 ji Ibanda ... 0 10 50 650 0 22 0 22 0 OA 17th July 63 64 '.i >) )> 652 0 22-0 Jt 21-0 OA A OA V 332 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. [nstrument of Correction. Hour of the Clironometcr. - o © a u o © c 1^: Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. BAG 81— 1 O / // , „ h. ni. s. in U 4 0 1 h. m. s. + 5 15 32-2 h. m. s. \ = 2 00 6-3 E.a. Emersion from t he lunar disk i on the mean local lime Sun 0 to E 52 40 0 5S 0 0 53 20 0 + 3 50 2 44 40-0 45 23 0 46 9 0 1 h. m. s. • C,„, = 5 15 34-9 Sun 0 to E 53 "iO 0 54 0 0 54 20 0 + 3 50 2 46 53 -5 47 37 0 48 32-0 1 h. m. s. • C„„=5 15 33-7 Sun 0 to E. 55 40 0 56 0 0 56 20 0 + 4 15 2 51 20 0 52 4 -5 52 49 0 1 h. m. s. • C„„=+5 15 32-4 Sun 0 to E. 57 0 0 57 20 0 57 40 0 + 4 15 2 54 18 0 55 1 1) 55 44-5 1 "1 li. m. s. lC,„,= +5 15 32-9 Sun 0 to E. 56 56 0 55 12 0 55 28 0 55 40 0 55 55 0 56 15 0 + 2 45 2 49 42 0 .50 16 0 50 52 0 51 20 0 51 53 '5 52 36 0 1 h. ni. 9. !-C„„=+5 15 34-4 J Sun 0 to W. 65 4 40 64 8 0 63 5 0 + 1 25 10 30 2 0 32 7 0 34 26 0 1 + 3 15 26-4 1 li. m. s. U-2 0 19-(> E.G. Sun 0 t ) W. 27 23 0 27 5 0 26 41 0 26 17 40 25 52 40 + 1 50 U 52 31 0 53 9 0 54 2 0 54 54 0 55 46-5 1 + 3 15 23 3 1 1 li. m. s. )-\ = -2 0 43-91E.a. 1 J Sun 0 to E. 44 51 0 45 9 0 45 27 40 45 46 40 45 59 20 + 1 50 2 26 58 0 27 37 -0 28 18-5 29 0-5 29 28 -5 1 + 3 15 22-4 1 li. m. s. J-A = 2 0 41-5 E.Gr. 1 J Sun 0 to E. 46 23 20 46 42 0 46 58 0 47 8 40 47 30 0 + 1 40 2 30 19 0 30 59 0 31 34-5 31 59-5 32 43 o 1 1 + 3 15 22-4 1 1 h. ni. 3. Y\ = 2 0 42-5 E.G J 333 Appendix B. Civil Hule, 1906. o 3 Observer. Place. Latitude N. Longitude E.G. Barom. mm. o SI £ o z ° 11 1^ O / // h. m. s. o 0 17th July 65 Com. Cagui Ibanda 2 0 43 6.51 -6 2G-0 29 0 OA 18th July 66 9) ?» )» 652 -0 23-0 17 0 O.A^ 19th July 67 )» )) ») 650 -95 25 0 27-0 OA »J 68 69 HK.H. )) 0 19 59 649 -45 24-0 23 0 OA A OA V 20tli July 70 .. Bulanuta 2 14 645-0 24 0 24 0 OA J) 71 >' " 0 26 33 644 05 24 0 24 0 OA A " 72 )» >» »1 »• J> ]i OA V 21st July 73 )} Fort Portal 0 39 28 2 1 32 638 G 21 0 21 0 OA A J) 74 ;) » » S> 1) J» )> OA A 22nd July 75 M „ J» 641-0 19 0 20 0 OA )» 76 jt »l 0 39 28 J> 636 0 14 0 12-8 OA A s» 77 i> J1 )> '• •J )) >j OA V 23rtl July 78 :j " ■• '• 641 7 17-5 17 0 OA A )» 79 " '• j» ■• )> " fl OA V 24th Julj 80 J) " >> )> 640 1 18-0 16-5 OA A 334 I. — Astronomic Observations. Contlitions under which tlie After was observfid. Instrumental Hei"ht. Instrument of Correction. Hour of tlie Clironometer. 12; Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. Sun 0 PS Sun 0 PS Sun 0 PS Sun o toW Suu 0 to VV Sun 0 PS Suu 0 to W Sun 0 to W Sun •) to W Sun 0 to W 137 27 0 137 47 30 138 7 40 55 40 0 52 20 0 139 46 0 51 22 40 51 7 40 50 50 20 50 35 40 50 24 0 50 3 0 54 11 40 53 43 0 53 52 40 53 7 20 52 46 40 47 39 40 Sun 0 PS : 140 57 20 Sun O to E SunOtj E Sun 0 to E Sun Ota E 1 Sun 0 to E 49 36 40 49 53 20 50 4 20 50 26 0 50 38 40 50 51 20 49 20 0 49 40 0 50 0 0 50 20 0 50 40 0 51 0 0 55 40 0 56 0 0 56 20 0 + 2 55 + 1 30 + 1 37-5 + 1 50 + 1 50 + 1 30 + 2 10 + 2 10 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 2 20 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 1 30 + 1 30 + 1 50 10 49 26 -8 10 56 43 -0 10 58 52 -0 10 59 25 0 11 0 1-5 11 0 34 -0 0 59 o 1 44-5 10 52 .54-5 53 55 0 54 32 0 55 13 0 10 55 57 -o 11 7 40 2 35 44 0 36 20 0 30 44 -5 2 37 32 -5 3S 0 0 38 26-5 2 35 5-5 35 44 0 36 26 0 2 37 H -5 37 53-5 38 36 -5 2 48 3.> -5 49 19-0 CO 0 0 h. m. s. + 3 15 18-8 + 3 15 18 S + 3 15 17 -3 + 3 15 17-3 <;)=0°20'37"N. <(> =0° 20' 4" K. 94 ii.R.ir. Fort Portal Butiti Kaibo O I II 0 39 28 0 39 28 0 39 30 h. m. 8. 2 1 32 640 1 " 635 0 )) J) '■ 636-0 635 0 t» 636 0 " ■' 645-7 3) 2 3 8 652-0 18 0 16 -5 I OA V 17-0 ! 10 -0 OA A „ ! „ OAv 16 -0 ! 14 -0 I OA A „ „ j OA V i 24 -0 23 0 OA - 15 -6 15 -O OA A „ ! „ OA V 19 -0 ! 18 -0 OA A „ OAv 24 0 24-0 OA- * The Chronometer 336 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction Hour of the Chronometer. ° a 15 Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. 56 40 0 57 O 0 57 20 0 62 0 0 61 40 0 61 20 0 60 40 0 60 20 0 60 0 0 51 0 0 51 20 0 51 40 0 52 0 0 52 20 0 52 40 0 Sun O PS 142 25 40 Sun 0 to E Sun 0 to W Sun O to W Sun O to £ Sun 0 to E Sun 0 to W Sun 0 to W Sun 0 to W Sim O to W Sun 0 Cir- cumm. Sun 0 Cir- eumm. Sun 0 Cir- cumm. 59 40 0 59 20 0 59 0 0 58 40 0 58 20 0 58 0 0 52 20 0 52 0 0 51 20 0 51 0 0 50 40 0 .50 20 0 50 0 0 143 1 40 142 51 20 142 31 40 I Sun O Cir- j 142 21 0 , cumm. I remained unregulated. / // + 1 50 + 0 50 + 0 50 + 0 30 + 0 30 + 2 20 + 1 30 + 1 30 + 0 40 + 0 40 + 1 .30 h. m. s. 2 50 46 -5 51 27-5 52 12-0 10 19 26 0 20 9 0 20 58-5 10 22 9 -5 23 2-0 23 46-5 2 20 17 -5 20 59-0 21 42 0 2 22 25 0 23 7 -5 23 51 -5 10 25 2 -5 25 43-5 26 26 0 10 27 11 -5 27 52 -0 28 35 0 10 39 46-5 40 32 0 41 55 5 42 38 0 10 43 21 0 44 2-5 44 45-5 6 51 4-0 6 52 10-0 6 54 9-5 6 55 25 *0 h. m. + 3 33 6-5 + 3 33 6-5 + 3 33 7-8 + 3 33 7-8 + 3 33 7-8 + 3 33 7-8 h. m. s. K, = + 3 15 22 -6 Ii. m, B. K, = + 3 32 57 -6* h. m. s. /(,= +3 32 51 0 h. m. 3. K, = + 3 32 59 -5 h. m. s. If, = + 3 32 59 -9 (f> = 0' 39' 40" N. h. m. s. K, = + 3 33 4 -8 h. m. 8. K, = + 3 33 4-7 h. m. s. >-A = 2 2 34-3 E.G. h. ni. s. U = 2 2 34-8 E.G. ^=0" 30' 36" N. <(> = 0° 30' 9"N. 9=0° 29' 26" N. (f) = 0' 30' 14" N. 337 Appendix B. o i Civil Date, 1906. Observer. Place. Latitude N. Longitu'le E.G. Barom. mm. 1 2ml August 95 96 6th August 97 98 99 100 101 7th August 102 8th August 103 104 105 ilth August 106 10th .\ugust 107 mh August 108 ,, 109 H.E.H. Kaibo Mujongo Kichioiui Lwamutu- Ituza Kasiba Kijemula Bimbye 0 30 4 0 30 41 0 31 20 0 40 34 0 31 ofi h. m. s. 2 5 16 2 5 52 2 (5 0 2 7 26 0 651-0 23-0 657-0 25-0 }i |>» 653-0 21-0 652-0 22-0 >} i> 657-0 22-0 658-0 23 0 657-0 24-0 )» J) 661 0 26-0 662-0 27-0 664 -0 26-0 )» 1 23-0 25 0 24 0 22-0 23-0 23-0 24-0 26 0 26-0 26-5 i OAA OA V OAA OAv OA OAA OAv OA OA OAA OAv OA OA OAA OAv ^ Tlie heiglits marked with an asterisk were taken with the Magnaghi circle and 338 I. — Astronomic Obsei-vations. 1 Conditions under which i the Aster [ was observed. [ugtrumental Height. [nstrument ' of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. :l o s o Absolut e Correction of the Chronometer. Results. ^~' Sun 0 to W. O 1 It 51 20 0 51 0 0 50 40 0 + 2 10 h. ni. 8. 10 -41 9 0 41 52 o 42 32-5 1 h. m. 9. + 3 33 8 0 \- m. 8. 3 7 -8 E.G. Sun 0 to W. 50 20 0 50 0 0 49 49 0 + 2 10 10 43 16 0 43 58-5 44 41-5 X + 3 33 8 0 \- jn. s. 3 7 -9 E.G. Sun 0 toW. 20 58 20 20 37 40 20 21 40 + 2 15 11 44 33 0 45 18-0 45 52 0 1 + 3 33 12 C, h. A. = 2 ni . 9. 3 55 -4 E.G. Sun 0 to W. 19 54 40 + 2 15 11 46 48() 1 + 3 33 12 -6 li. A. = 2 m. 8. 3 54 -6 E.G. Sun 0 PS 146 50 30* -8 0 ^ = 0^ 31' .5.3" N. Sun 0 to \V. 45 0 0 44 40 0 44 20 0 + 0 40 10 53 31 0 54 12 -0 54 52 -5 1 + 3 33 14 1 Y- m. 8. 4 26 -0 E.G. Sun 0 to W. 44 0 0 43 40 0 43 20 0 + 0 40 10 55 36 -0 56 18 0 57 1 0 1 + 3 33 14 1 1 ''• U=2 ra. 8. 4 25 -9 E.G. Sun 0 PS 147 13 30* + 1 0 <;. = 0° .W 27" N. Sun 0 PS 14« 6 0» 0 0 Sun 0 to W 54 0 0 53 40 0 53 20 0 + 1 50 10 33 16-0 33 56 0 34 40-5 Sun 0 to W 53 00 0 52 40 0 52 20 0 + 1 50 10 35 23 0 36 6 -5 36 '!9 5 Sun 0 PS 148 30 45* 0 0 Sun 0 PS l.)8 55 4.5* + 1 30 Sun 0 to W 51 0 0 50 40 0 50 20 0 + 1 20 10 37 49 -5 38 31 0 32 13 0 Sun 0 to W 50 0 0 49 40 0 49 20 0 + 1 20 10 39 55 0 40 37 0 41 17-5 + 3 33 17 1 + 3 33 17 1 11 +3 33 21 -6 1 I +3 33 21 •(! result from the mean of thi- readings of the two reflectors of the instrument. .339 (>) = (i°40'34"N. h. ni. 8. x-2 5 53 -2 E.G. h, m. 9. \ = 2 5 50 -8 E.G. (^=0'=35'55"N. .f) = 0°31'57"N. h. m. 9. A. = 2 7 26 -4 E.G. h. m. s. \ = 2 7 26 -4 E.G. Z 2 Appendix B. 1906. > o I I i I 3 S5 Place. Latitude , Longitude Barom. _; -^ N. E.G. mm. £.= — N s— "E c o 5"" ; — . j; =t 16th August IM H.R.H. ° ' " h. m. s. Entebbe 0 311 2 9 47 667 5 22 0 24 0 O.VA 111 17th August 112 113 666-0 OAv 17 0 24 1> OA A OAv 340 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was ohserred. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. Sun 0 to W 54 0 0 53 40 0 53 20 0 Sun 0 to W .53 0 0 52 40 0 52 20 0 Sun o to E 68 2il 0 68 40 0 69 0 0 Sun 0 to E 69 20 0 69 40 0 70 0 0 h. m. s. 0 10 28 25 5 29 6-5 29 48-0 10 30 30 0 31 13-0 31 55 5 -1 50 ■1 50 ^ % Absolute = = I Correction of t = ; "'« .S 1. 1 Chronometer. Results. 2 43 13 0 43 55-0 44 36 -2 2 45 20 o 46 0 5 46 iJ 5 — 1 h. m. s. Ui=+3 33 29-9 „_ 1 h. m. a. l.ici=+3 33 28-5 _ 1 h. m. s. Ui=+3 33 25-2 .._ "1 h. m. s. U,= ^3 33 23-8 341 REGISTER OF THE CHRONOMETERS. Appendix B. EEGISTER OF Civil Date, 1906. i 3 "S .2 s IS Su H ■«] Chronoiii. N. 1, Lange 56509. c,. K,. k.. 18tli April ... 19tli „ ... 20th „ .. 20th „ ... 20th 21st 22nd 23rd 24th 25th 26th 26th 27th 28th 28th 29th 30th 1st May 2n(l 3rd 4th 4tli On board Port Said Port Said (comparison with the ehron. of the Police Station) Port Said On board Jibuti (comparison with the " Elphinstone ") Jibuti ., Aden.... On board Mombasa „ (comparison with the cbron. of the Post Office) h. ni. 12 30 9 30 9 30 14 0 6 0 o 10 0 25 10 0 28 10 0 29 9 30 30 9 0 16 0 31 7 30 29 9 0 28-5 9 0 10 30 9 0 9 0 30 9 0 31 9 30 8 0 5 30 h. m. s. 9 15 0 0 6 0 00 6 21 0 0 10 46 8 -5 2 57 0 0 6 33 0 0 6 55 0 0 6 36 0 0 6 10 0 0 5 55 0 0 12 40 30 0 3 59 30 0 5 43 0 0 5 54 0-0 7 6 30 -0 5 26 0 0 5 53 30 0 5 44 0 0 6 19 0-0 4 47 0-0 2 12 0 0 + 3 17 15-5 8. -1 -29 + 3 17 8-0 + 3 IG 57 0 ^-1 ■34 344 I.— Astronomic Observations. THE CHRONOMETEKS. Chronom. N. 2, Lange 56520. Chrononi. N. 3, Longines 560229. Comparisons. C,. Ko. h. m. s. 9 7 39 o 5 .52 33 -5 6 13 37 0 2 49 36 6 25 34 6 47 30 6 28 25 6 2 19 5 47 11 3 51 34 5 34 57 5 45 49 6 58 19 5 17 41 5 45 4 5 35 26 6 10 18 4 38 6 2 3 6 h. m. 8 + 3 24 38 -5 + 3 25 3-5 !- +4-31 + 5-90 + 3 25 52 0 h. m. s. 9 32 23 -5 I 6 17 19 0 6 38 15 0 h. m. p, + 3 0 0-5' 3 14 14 6 50 10 7 12 0 6 52 53 6 26 46 6 11 38 4 16 0 5 59 20 6 10 4 7 22 33 5 41 l-l 6 9 15 5 59 38 6 34 30 5 2 21 2 27 16 -t 3 0 38 0 + 6-46 Ci-CV C1-C3. C.-C3. m. s. + 7 20-5 7 21-5 in. 6. I m. s. -17 23-5 -24 44 0 17 19 0 24 40 o 7 23 0 I 17 15 0 , 24 38 0 j. + 7 -91 7 23-8 -17 14-5 -24 38-3 7 26 0 17 lU-5 24 36 -5 7 30 0 17 0 7 24 30-7 7 34-8 16 53 r, 24 28-3 7 41 ■(• 16 46 -5 24 27 -5 7 49 0 16 38 -U 24 27 0 7 55 5 -16 30 0 -24 25-5 8 2o 16 20-5 24 23 0 8 10-5 16 4 0 24 14-5 8 11 0 16 3-7 24 14 -7 b 18-5 15 54 0 24 12 -5 8 25-5 15 45 0 24 10 -5 8 34 0 15 38-0 24 12 0 8 42-0 15 .30 0 24 12 0 8 53-5 15 21-5 24 15 0 8 54 0 15 16-8 24 10 -8 + 3 1 43 0- 345 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. Place. g B .la; p g H •< Chronom. N. 1, Lange 56509. C K 4th Ma.v ,. Mombasa h. m. 8 30 h. m. s. 5 20 30 0 5th „ .... Railway ... 10 0 6 49 0-0 6th „ . „ 8 30 4 59 0 0 7th „ .... Entebbe 9 30 C 22 0 0 8th „ ... 9 30 6 19 0 0 9th „ .. ■, 10 30 7 14 0-0 10th „ . 10 0 6 45 0-0 11th „ ... ,. 10 30 7 10 0-0 12th „ .... ., 8 32 5 15 0-0 12th „ . Entebbe (Telep;rapliic com- parison with Mombasa Post Office) 9 30 12th ., ... Entebbe 10-30 7 9 00 12th 10 30 7 11 0 0 13th •> 13 30 10 18 0-0 l-tth „ ,, 11 0 7 40 0 0 16th „ .... En route (Kutende) o 10 0 6 44 0 0 17th „ .... „ (Bweya) 29-2 9 30 6 16 0-0 18th „ ., (Mitiana) 28-7 10 0 6 31 0 0 19th „ „ (Bujongolo) 30-7 9 30 6 10 30 -0 20th „ (Bimbye) 27-7 9 30 6 26 0 0 21st , „ (Kijemula) 25-7 13 30 10 15 30 0 22nd „ „ (Madridu) 28-2 10 0 6 55 0-0 23rd „ ,, (Muduma) 23-2 10 .30 7 1 30 0 24th ., . „ (Lwamutukuz 0 ... 28-7 10 .30 7 2 30 -0 2oth „ (Kichiomi) 24-2 10 0 6 47 0-0 26th „ „ (Muyongo) 2(3-7 10 0 6 rjo 0-0 27th ,. (Kaibo) 23-3 10 0 6 50 0-0 h. m. s. + 3 16 34-9 i--2-762 -2 123 346 I . — Astronomic Observations. 1 Chronom. N. 2, Lange 56520. Clironom. N. 3, Longines 560229. Comparisous tyg- J\ .2. ' 1 C3. K3. k3. Oi — C_>. C,-C,. C..-C3. h. m. s. 5 11 35 0 1 h. m. 9. 5 35 43 0 1 111. 9. 1 + 8 55 -0 m. «. -15 13-0 III. 9. -24 8-0 6 40 0 0 1 7 4 6-5 9 0-0 15 6 5 24 6-5 1 4 49 58 -5 j 5 13 58 -8 9 1-5 14 58 -8 £4 0-3 6 12 53 0 6 36 53 0 9 7-0 14 53 -0 24 0-0 6 9 49 0 .^^-^,.6 33 48 0 .+3'--437 '''■' 14 48 -0 23 59 0 7 4 43 -5 7 28 43 0 9 16-5 14 43 0 23 59 -5 6 35 37 -5 6 59 38 0 9 22-5 14 38 0 24 0-5 7 0 31 -5 7 24 31 -5 5 29 25 -3 + 9 28 -5 -14 31 -5 14 25 -3 -24 0-0 ll. 111. s. + 3 26 9 0 J h. 111. s. 6 19 4-5+3 2 10-5 7 23 23 -5 1 ) -14 23-5 7 1 25-5 7 25 24-0 + 9 34 -5 14 24 -0 -23 58-5 10 8 20 -5 10 32 18 -0 9 39-5 14 18 -0 23 57 -5 7 30 16 0 7 54 13 -5 9 44-0 14 13 -5 23 57 -5 6 33 56 0 , 6 57 55 -5 10 4-0 13 55 -5 23 59-5 6 5 47 -5 1 6 29 39 -5 10 12-5 13 39 -5 23 52 -0 6 20 38 -5 6 41 30-5 10 21 -5 13 30-5 23 52 0 5 59 59 -5 6 24 10 10 30-5 13 31 0 24 1-5 6 15 18 -Sj 6 39 26 -5 ]0 41-5 13 26-5 24 8 -0 10 4 41 0 10 28 50 -0 10 49 0 13 20 -0 24 9-0 6 44 0 0 7 S 10 0 11 0 0 13 10 0 24 10-0 6 50 21 0 ; 7 14 23 -5 1 11 9-0 . 12 53 -5 24 2-5 6 51 10 0 s. - + 6 -264 7 15 25 -0 s. .+5-087 11 20-0 12 55 -0 24 15-0 6 35 31 -5 6 59 51 -0 11 28-5 12 51 -0 24 19-5 6 43 19 0 7 7 40 0 11 41 -0 12 K3-0 21 27-0 6 38 9-0 1 7 2 39 -0 1 U 51-0 12 39-0 24 30 0 347 Appendix B. CiTil Date, 1906. Place. 3 ^ .io a H ■< Chronom. N. 1, Lange 56509. C,. K 28th May . 29tlx „ 30th J) 3l8t 1st June 2nd )i 3rd ,, 4th )> 5th ,, 11th J, 11th » 12th „ 14th „ 16th ,, 18th )) 24th „ 25th „ 26th )» — 27th )> 28th j> 29th ,, 29th „ 30th 11 1st July ... * 2nd ») otli ) En route (Butiti) . (Fort Portal) (Duwonii) (Kasongo) (Ibanda) . ... (Biliunga) (Nakitawa) Bujongolo 22- 19- 21- 20- 23- 26- 25- 20- 13- 5- 4- 4- 5- 4- 4- 0 ■ 4- 6- 4- 4- 4- 4- 6- 4- h. m. ■2 11 0 •7 14 30 •2 12 30 •7 10 30 •7 10 0 ■7 11 30 ■2 10 30 ■7 12 30 •7 10 0 ■9 12 0 13 30 •9 10 0 •9 14 0 •9 7 30 •9 8 30 •9 8 30 ■2 9 30 •7 10 30 •5 10 0 '7 10 0 ■7 6 30 10 30 ■7 11 0 •3 10 0 •0 10 0 ■5 10 3iP h. m. 7 39 s. 0-0 11 13 0 0 9 24 0 0 7 8 0 0 6 58 0 0 8 27 0 0 7 11 0-0 9 26 0 0 6 47 0-0 8 31 0-0 10 29 2 0 6 56 0 0 10 43 0 0 4 10 0 0 5 24 0-0 5 20 30 0 6 21 0 0 7 6 0 0 6 55 30-0 6 51 0 0 3 9 34 0 7 8 0-0 7 48 0 0 6 35 0 0 6 50 0 0 7 26 O-o i li. m. s. ■ . + 3 l.-j 30-8 '4- + 3 15 21 -8 ■ -0-509 s. + 0-471 " Taking the cdniiiarisuns (if June Uth to l)e wrong, we are 348 I. — ^ Astronomic Observations. Chronom. Jf. 2, Lange 56520. ' Chronom. N. 3, Longines 560229. C. k... C:,. K Comparisons. C,-C. h. m. 7 27 11 0 9 11 6 55 6 45 8 14 6 57 9 12 6 33 8 17 6 42 10 23 3 56 5 10 5 6 6 7 6 52 6 42 6 37 6 54 7 34 6 21 6 36 7 13 li. tn. 8. + 3 29 23- h. m. s. 7 51 33 0 11 25 16 0 9 36 2 0 7 19 55 "5 7 9 40 -5 I 8 38 30 -0 7 22 22 0 9 37 13 0 6 58 0 0 8 41 U-0 h. m. + 3 4 m. 8. 11 59 12 12 12 26 12 32 12 43 12 52 13 2 13 12 13 23 » » Ci — Cn. c^-r,. 48-3 s. 7 6 42 -0 10 53 24 0 4 20 20-5 5 34 19-5 — 2-611 5 30 4 0 6 30 34 -5 7 15 22 0 7 4 54 '5 7 0 17 -5 + 13 530 13 54-5 13 52 0 i 13 43 0 8. }■ +5 197 13 35-5 13 30-0 13 27 -5 13 23 0 13 20-0 + 3 28 39 3 ■- + 3 6 15-9 = 7 17 3-5 7 56 45 -5 6 43 45 -5 6 58 2-oj 7 34 37 0 13 17 0 13 15-5 13 12-5 13 6-5 12 46-0 tn. 9. 12 33 12 16 12 2 11 .55 11 *) 11 30 11 22 11 13 11 0 s -10 42 10 24 10 20 10 19 9 34 9 34 9 22 9 24 9 17 9 3 8 45 8 45 8 2 8 37 m. 8. 24 32 24 28 24 28 24 27 24 23 24 22 24 24 24 25 24 23 p -24 35 0 24 18-5 24 12 -5 24 2-5 23 9-5 23 4-5 22 49-5 22 47 -5 22 37 o 22 20-5 22 1-5 21 58-0 21 8-5 21 230 referred to those of the 12th for the values K,, K3 and kj, kj. 349 Appendix B. CiTil Date, 1906. Place. e .§ « Chronom. N. 1, Lnnge 56509. C,. K,. K llth July .. Bujongolo .... IStli ,, . ,, (en route) h. ni. h. m. s. j h. m. s. | I 5 -9 ' 8 0 4 46 2S -5 ' ; | 5-9 I fi 0 2 51 6 0 +:i 15 28-4 V 2Ut „ 24th „ Fort Portal 14-2 14 0 10 57 49 0 6 30 2 13 0 0 ■ -1-521 + 3 15 15-8 27tb July — Through a great delay in regulating 27fli J ily .. Fort Portal 28tli ,, J) 30th ,. „ 31st yy „ 2nd Augu,-t Kaibn 6th Kicliiomi 16th Bimbje 16th Entebbe 22nd 2i;th Mombasa (comparison with the chronometer of the Post Office) 28tli h. ni. 14 0 9 0 10 0 14 0 13 30 15 30 10 0 14 0 10 0 7 30 14 30 li. m. 9. 10 32 0 0 5 40 0 0 6 29 0 0 10 26 4S 0 9 46 0 0 11 45 0 0 6 40 0 0 6 37 0-0 4 4 0 0 h. m. 8. + 3 33 5 0 + 3 33 29 -2 + 3 33 19 0 }. + 1 -510 s. - 1 045 350 I . — Astronomic Observations. Chronom. N. 2, Lange 5Q520. Chronom. N. 3. Loiigines 560229. Comparisons. c^. K,. k.,. C,. K,. k3. 1 C-C,. c,-cv C,-C,. li. m. s. 7 34 0 0 1 59 50 0 h. in. s. 2 19 4,0 -5 12 28-5 13 10 0 m. s. 6 40-5 m. e. 19 50 -5 the chronometers they varied, and No. 2 stopped. h. ni. s 8 29 43 0 3 37 43 -5 4 26 39 -5 7 43 17 -5 9 41 50-0 4 36 13 0 4 31 43 0 8 39 5-5 h. m. 8. lU 17 47 -5 5 25 55 0 6 15 14-0 il 3i 14-0 b. m. s. li. m. 8. I li. m. s. + 2 2 17 U +0 1412-5-1 48 45 2 2 16 -5 2 2 20 -5 2 2 42 -5 2 3 10-U 2 3 47 0 + 2 5 170 2 5 55 0 14 5-0 1 48 1 1-5 13 46 0 1 48 31-5 13 460 1 4856-5 351 II.— GEODETK^ OBSERVATIONS. By p. CA.MPIGLI. Taking as starting point a site near Bujongolo, the height of which above sea-level was known from barometric readings, at that point, which for shortness will henceforth be simply called Bujongolo, was constructed an astronomic station, the latitude of which was determined by meridian and cireummeridian zenithal observations of the sun, and the longitude by means of lunar occultations of stars. Then in the neighliourhood of Bujongolo a base was chosen and measured between the points A and />' {sec the annexed diagram of the triangulation.) The distance was obtained either directly by fixing stations with the tachometer at the two extremes J and B, or by measuring with the metric 353 ^ A Appendix B. tape measure and stadiometer, the distances intercepted between the points B c, c c', c' il, (I A, from which were had the following results : — Distances. Vertical Angle. Between the points. Measured with the tape line. Measured with the Sta'lio- meter. Segments. B c c B B A c v' c' d c d d A A d A B 56 -135 67 -620 108 -325 62-700 60-00 61 -5 320 -0 75-0 1180 ISO -5 66-5 66-0 320-0 15° 10' 17 32 18 02 21 20 22 22 20 40 7 06 7 12 18 18 55 -SU 55 -92 65 -17 100 -91 C5 ■■18 64-99 ■ 165-98 166 -77 I .55-905 ■166-375 • 65-2:;5 287 -515 289 -33 288-45 287 -51 Tot! il lengtli to be aciop ed, metres 2S8 -43 (947 ft.) At the extreme west point B of the base, the height of which over Bujongolo was also measured with the barometer and found to be 104 metres, solar observations enabled the expedition to determine the azimuth of one of the points constituting the apexes of the triangles of the geodetic network, which thus became orientated. The point chosen for the azimuth was the Cagni Peak, distant 1882-9 metres (.5,980 feet), and the following results were obtained : — Mean of four values on the right Circle 80' .51'-29. Mean of four values on the left Circle 80' .51'-09. Mean value of the azimuth of Cagni Peak from Point B ..80° 5r-19. With the mean value of the base of 288-4.3 metres (945 feet), and solving the two triangles B A Cagni Peak and // A Edward Peak, we oljtained from two parts the value of the side Cagni Peak — Edward Peak, which gave 2883-2 metres (9,4-56 feet). 354 Xt~iX£pitin CXlm^cvlo ST!! dSoU<^ 3f <'moe«in»«f''l Bujont/olo '^tolw3^ 'ql"* tJbUaC tfC I?'/' tJoxtixf 8'(' MAP OF ANGLES MEASURED in the Ruwenzoni Chain "\»JaToia Umberto . . Johnston . . WoUaston Alexandra Station, mean ratio Vittorio Emanuele Edward Elena jVIargherita Wollaston Margborita, Nortli Peak + 18° 47' + 22 16 + 18 27 + 11 31 + 23= 24' + 22 30 55' 30" 5 30 31 30 5 30 39 30 37 30 58 30 5 33 30 4 36 30 4 42 30 1 30 0 + 5° 0' + 1 30 - 1 30 - 5 30 -40 0' 0 0 30 0 + () 30 1822 -9 2359 1 2680 -2 288-4 1637 -9 25fi3 -4 2883 -2 5681 -6 4837 -2 7539 -9 8142 -9 4,s;i4 -0 4129 2 1485 0 1705 -9 5134-4 2961 -5 2581 0 3183 -6 3444 6 onfi -7 3634 -2 2768-1 3298 -4 1134 -6 214-3 4209 -S 389-0 + 620 + 966 + 894 - 94 + 709 + 1062 + 350 + 606 + 383 + 275 + 235 + 482 + 142 + 144 + 137 + 423 + 226 + 84 - 90 - 54 - 254 - 194 - 231 - 99 + 24 - 443 + 3 104 724 1070 998 10 10 719 1072 1072 1328 1104 997 957 1204 86 1 8nfi 859 1144 SOU 1104 1330 1188 1014 1050 850 1.302 1108 1301 1203 1326 859 1305 358 II. — Geodetic Observations. SUJIMAKY C — roniinued. Name of the Points. Zenith Angles Observed. Sides. Differences of Level. Ratios referred to Bujongolo. "VV'ollaston Station, mean ratio .. 861 Semper .. lolanda . . Edward . . Si airs Stiihlmann Sella Moore + 6'" 30' + 1 00 + 7 30 - 1 30 - 7 00 0 - 1 00 1278 -8 6968 -2 1628 -3 2969 -9 3748 -8 3S15-6 299 1 + 146 + 122 + 214 - 78 - 460 0 - 5 1007 9S3 1075 783 401 861 856 lolanda Station, mean ratio . . .. .. 971 Bottego . . - 3° 0' 961 0 - 50 921 Camp IV, ratio determined with the barometer . . 710 Grauer Pass 0° 0 710 Umberto Station, mean ratio .. ' ' 1005 Kraepeliu . . - 0" 8' 30" 819-3 - 2 1003 Edward Station, mean ratio.. .. .. 1071 Vittorio Kmanuele Moore VVeismann + 0°30' - 7 30 - 3 30 3894 -9 1657 -9 3386 -4 + 34 - 218 - 208 1105 853 863 359 Appendix B. ^ w S o •ji o O m o H Q o o s^ o 1-3 pq '-^ o o fi r-1 :;j O H ^ C' s .. -^ ^ w •J} P 5 -" ^ ^ S is ^« -J} > P3 W Z o 1 f1 1 At sea-lcvcl. ■g ooOiOxeocoJ>-'MM'MO'MX'^r*i>cor^No;t^x-*ao ^ 10 CO ^ CO ic >-■: •--: 10 L-i i.-^ '^ LI c^ C> CD CO 0 »f3 \o CO -* 0 71 osco^LOioffiiccsCi'^OMcicooccO'-irHoocci^c:?! i-a5 i •otoSnorna: 1 .-(if3C01>i>.-lt^rMi-'CD'M-*^Oi>Vf50730St^>-^CDCOiOOi'ej-i?10 i>o^copHOsoxxxt^^o eoco^Oxccoj>Ci.-i 1— (rHi— (1— (1— 1 ,-Hr- !>-<>— (.— ll— IrH Ratio ■ob- tained with the Baro- meter. 1078 1102 1327 1193 972 1029 1060 1312 1176 390 724 104 3 rH^^r^cOOW^^CDN'^iMOMWSXCOTOO'-^O^ *; J> 0 r^ CO csi Oi 0 00 00 xi> <-( 0 CO » ^ 0 00 0 -^ t> 0 1 eft _o 1 •AI dmiio 1 II 1 1 II 11 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 II II 1 S 1 1 1 "^ ■o^wquiii 1003 •BpUCIOJ 921 •■Bnaia: 1303 ■pjBAVpa 1105 857 853 1302 863 ■SJlK)g 859 ^l^naTJing; ouonr\^ 1014 1298 1188 1050 •nais«iio^VV 983 861 85(3 783 1007 401 •Tupn'EX3|y 1326 1203 859 1305 •w^iianSjupi 1302 •inSua IS2g|ggSSS£2 II 1 M II M II 1 «■ si 1 M li II 1 lli° M II 1! i II 1 -ecause no oliservations were made at Fort Portal from May to September, 1905. Hence, the Entebbe Oliservatory being 3,863 English feet, or 1,177 metres above sea-level, it follows that Fort Portal stands at alwut 1,532 metres (5,025 feet) altove the sea. After a stay of two days at Fort Portal, the expedition started on 1st June from Fort Portal for Kuvvenzori. In the appended Table V are given the data of the observations made at the various encampments, as in Table VI the corresponding data of Fort I'ortal, where, at the recjuest of H.R.H., Mr. John de Souza, Director of the Observa- tory, besides the ordinary observations for the hours 7, 14, and 21, made one also at noon for the whole time that elapsed between the departure of the expedition from, and its return to, Fort Portal. From the data of Tallies V and VI have been calculated the following altitudes : Altitude of Duwona relatively to Fort Portal about m. 5-1=^ 177 '0 ft. Kasongo „ „ „ „ „ „ 136= 4-i6-2 „ „ Ibanda „ „ „ „ „ „ 458= 518-3 „ „ Bihunga „ „ „ „ „ „ 388 = 1,273-0 „ „ Nakitawa „ „ ,, „ „ „ 1,120 = 3,674-6 ,, Kichuehu „ „ „ „ „ „ 1,465 = 5,788-2 „ „ Buamba ., „ „ „ „ „ 1,986 = 6,515-8 „ On 8th June the expedition reached Bujongolo, a place which is comprised within the Ruwenzori uplands, and as this formed the basal station and point of reference for all the measurements to be subsequently taken during the exjjlora- tion, the observations were here made regularly from 16th June to 12th July, under conditions far more favourable than those that would be secured while &n route. The instruments were suspended fi-om a vertical table supported by two posts, which were firmly planted in the ground at a height of about five feet above the surface, and protected from the effects of insulation and of the rain by a large awning extended al>ove at a distance of about a foot. At Table VIII are given the results of these observations, which are recorded in full, not only because they have been used for the calculation of the 364 Til. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. altitudes, but also because they serve to give an idea of the climate of* that interesting locality. Then at Table VII are brought together the data of Fort Portal for the same period of time, liearing in mind that to the pressures reduced to 0° has been applied the already-mentioned constant term of correction +5-17 mm. Thenfrom the mean data of Tables VII and VIII was calculated the difference of level between Bujongolo and Fort Portal. The first calculation was made with the data of the synchronous midday observations at Bujongolo and Fort Portal, and was found to be 2,276-7 imire.^ (7,408-5 feet). But when we allow for the considerable difterence of level between the two observed stations, we cannot assert with certainty that the law of daily variation of pressure is identical in both places, hence the coincidence of the hour of oljservation does not imply identity of modifications in the atmospheric ebb and flow, so that it becomes advisable to try and take advantage of the other observed data too, besides those of midday. Therefore with the mean daily values of pressure, temperature,! and vapour tension for Fort Portal (obtained from the mean of the three observations of the hours 7, 14, and 21 for Bujongolo) are associated the mean values of the pressure and vapour tension deduced from the two observations of the hours 9 and 17. These, when account is taken of the normal movement of the daily \'ariations of pressure and tension, .should not differ greatly from the tliurnal mean. For the temperature of Bujongolo we have assumed the mean of the maximum and minimum temperature, which, in the absence of more complete data, is the one that approaches nearest to the mean daily temperature. With the values thus obtained, and recorded at foot of Tables VII and VIII, the difference of level has been calculated between Fort Portal and Bujongolo, and is found to be 2,2-55 - 7 metres (7,376 feet). Taking as a more approximate value the mean between this and the preceding value, we get as the height of Bujongolo abo^e Fort Portal .'i',-?6Y> mcfres (7,4.32 feet), and adding to this value the altitude of Fort I'ortal above the sea, the elevation of Bujongolo above the sea is found to lie 3,79S metres (12,461 feet). The camp being established at Bujongolo, where, as already stated, regular observations were taken three times daily from 15th June to 1 2th July, the excursions began to the chief places in the Ruwenzori Range. The instruments * Owing to the requirements of daily life at the Bujongolo encampment, the meteoro- logical observations were taken at the hours of 9, 12, and 17, instead of 7, 14, and 21, as at Fort Portal and Entebbe. t In the calculation of temperature no account is taken of the maximum and miiiinunn, because at times they disagree with the other temperatures of the day. 365 Appendix B. brought with us on these excursions were: — a Fortiii Imronietev whicli had for a hing time been compared with another left at Bujongolo ; an aneroid likewise compared with the two Fortius ; a thermometer for taking the temperature of the air, and two hypsometric thermometers. For the more important points, for instance, for nearly all the peaks, and always where possilile, the measurements of pressure were made with the mercurial barometer, the aneroid Ijeing useii only in a few special cases where it would have been very ditlicult to carry, or take measurements with the mercurial barometei', and also for places of secondary importance. The precaution, however, was taken to take down or record the indications of the aneroid even whenever the Fortin was used. Not till after 12th July, when the Fortin got damaged, was the h^-psometer employed. Whenever it was possible, the observations were made at the same hours as those of Bujongolo (9, 12, and 17), but occasionally this was not possible, and then we assumed as terms of comparison the data of Bujongolo made at the nearest hours, unless there were reasons for adopting the mean of two consecutive data. In connection with this preferable choice of data for the calculation of altititdes it should be noted that for places for which the daily variation of pressure, temperature, etc., is known, that is to s&y, where the hour of the ma.xima and minima and the extent of the daily variations are ascertained, it is possible to reduce a determination made at any given hour to another determined hour. But in the present case these fundamental notions are lacking, and for regions such as that under consideration, meteorological studies are too rare to enable us confidentl}' to extend to them those laws that have been established for regions of the temperate zone.* For Bujongolo we should no doubt have some element to establish approximately the daily movement of pressure, temperature, etc., but the same caimot be said for the other places in Euwenzori, and especially for the peaks. For these reasons the heights were calculated with the data, such as they were, without modifying them in any way on the ground of the hours when the observations were made. Another matter, which, however, has no great influence, is that concerned with the humidity, or rather the tension of the aqueous vapour which is always * Let one example suffice to show what caution is necessary in this respect. At Bujongolo the mean pressure at 9 o'clock is 488-87 mm. (see Table VIII, 6) ; at 12, 488-67, and at 17, 488-08, so that the maiimum of the morning is reached before midday, and at tliis hour the barometer is already falling. On tlie other hand on the Siintis Peak (2,467 metres), the maximum of tlic morning is delayed till toward 14 o'clock, and on Mt. BUinc (4,811 metres), till towards 15 (Angot, nieteorologie). 366 III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. found to a greater or less extent in the atmosphere. In the forimdu which serves for the calculation of the altitudes (.sea p. .'iGL') there occurs the factor 1 - 0 378 rh ^^'^^'"^ '^ ^'^ '■^^ mean vapotir tension at the two stations, and 7 the '/ m^au of the pressures, and this factor has reference to the influence exercised by the presence of the aqueous vapour on the readings of barometric altitudes. For Bujongolo the vapour ten.sion is known, l>ut not for the observed places on Ruwenzori, as here no psychrometric ol3sei'\-ations were made. The neglect of the factor relating to the humidity might be a cause of error, to eliminate which, at least partly, a mean humidity of aliout 60 has been admitted for the stratum of the air comprised lietween Bujongolo and the observed station.* This humidity of 60 is certainly less than the true mean, since at Bujongolo the humidity i.s always very high (mean 89), and there is reason to believe that it is always considerable in the other places too, where cloiifly, foggy and rainy weather prevail. On the Tables IX, X, XI and XII are recorded the altitudes of the various other places on Ruwenzori, calculated with the previously indicated iwrmtf. Regarding the results olitaincd, it may lie noticed that the determinations made with the mercurial baiometer were found to agree sufficiently well with each other whenever it was possible to make more than one determination for any given place, and they agree also with the surveys made with geodetic methods. Owing to the irregular behaviour of the aneroid barometers, the measure- ments taken with these instruments present a far less degree of approximation. * 'J'o sliow Ihe possible influence of such a correction, reference may be made to (he special ease of the Margherita Peak. Here the pressure at 11 o'clock on 18th June was 414'0 mm and the tempeniture — 3°-3 Celsius (20°'6 F.), whereas at Bujongolo, at 12 o'clock on the same day, the pressure was 4879 mm. and the temperature o'l Celsius (11' F.), hence the mean pressure was about 451 mm. and the mean temperature 0°-9 Celsius (33° F.). Had the air been saturated at this temperature the vapour tension would liave been 487 mm. Admitting a humidity of GO the tension falls to 2'92 mm., with wliieh datum, and wit)i the mean pressure of 4.51, we get the cologarithm of tlu> term of correction for the iiumidify, namely : colog. L_^ = 000103 1-0 378'*' n Without taking account of the humidity, the height of Margherita Peak above Bujongolo was found to be 1,324 metres; with this added it becomes 1,327 metres, that is to say, we have a rise of about 0-22 per i-ent. Admitting a humidity of 80 the height would become 1,328'5 metres, with a rise of 0'33 per cent. 367 Appendix B. Ill fact, in spite of every care taken to make continual comparisons with the Fortiii l)arometer, the term of correction did not keep constant, not only from day to day, Idit even during the same day whenever the instrument got shaken or was exposed to sudden changes of altitude. Hence, to avoid errors that might even be serious, a cautious and limited use has Ijeen made of the data obtained with the aneroid. Thus, the simultaneous indications of the Fortin and the aneroid being noted, and the altitude olitaiiied from the former being taken as correct, the indications of the latter have served to establish differences of k'\-el, which were inconsiderable relativelv to the point of comparison. "When this process was completed the comparison was renewed, so that the data first obtained were brought under control. In general the reported data result from the mean of two or more determinations, and may consequently be regarded as sufficiently accurate. As to the altitudes of the places passed by the expedition on the return journey, that is, from and after the 1-lth July, these were all obtained by means of comparisons with the data observed simultaneously at Ibanda.* Then, for the sake of uniformity, they were reduced, like the previous . ones, to the common level of Bujongolo. Amongst the determinations made relatively to Ibanda was that of lolanda Peak, the altitude of which will consequently not be so near the truth as that of the other peaks. And, besides the inconvenience of Ibanda lying still lower than Fort Portal, there was also the trouble caused by the breaking of one of the mercurial barometers, instead of which we had to use the hypsometer, which yields a less degree of approximation in the readings. NOTE. In the western districts of the Uganda Protectorate the geodetic survey has not yet Ijeeu carried out, but the far-seeing British Government is taking it in hand, and no doubt it will soon be an accomplished fact. Hence it might seem reasonable to refer the various altitudes of the Euwenzori group, not to Bujongolo, but to Fort North Portal, the exact height of which above sea-level will soon be known. In fact, this very critical point is being seen to by Messrs. H. Y. Tegart and H. E. Maddox, who have recently published some • For the altitude of Ibanda relatively to Foi-t Portal- 148 was assumed, this being the mean of the observations made on going and returning. 36s III. — Aleteoroloiiical, etc., Observations. valuable studios on liuwenzori. But if the ilatu have nevertheless been referred to Bujongolo, it was because they offered greater guarantees of accuracy, and this for the following reasons : — First of all, the difference of altitude between Bujongolo and Fort Portal may be regarded as near enough, having been obtained from a considerable number of observations. On this account we may consider as partially com- pensated those sources of error which are due to atmospheric disturbances, such as may have a great influence on isolated measurements, especially when dealing with very remote stations. Such would precisely have been the case if the data observed on Ruwenzori had Ijcen directly compared with those corresponding hour for hour with Fort Portal. But by making the comparisons with the data obtained at Bujongolo, a much nearer place, one may fairly assume a greater uniformity of atmospheric conditions. Then there is another fact which shows the greater convenience of the course adopted. It is seen in the following example to which many others might be added. On 7th July, at 12 o'clock, on Edward Peak, the pressure (reduced to 0') was 428-5 mm., and the temperature I'Q Celsius (34'"4 F.), the corresponding readings being at Bujongolo 489-lG mm. and 3°-9 Celsius (39° F.), and at Fort Portal 638-69 mm., and 23°-3 Celsius (74° F.). Calculating from these data the difference of level between Edward I'eak and Fort Portal, and then separately lietween Edward Peak and Bujongolo, and between Bujongolo and Fort Portal, we get : — * Difference of level between Edward Peak and Fort Portal ... 3,355 metres Difference of level between f]dward Peak and Bujongolo 1,074 metres Difference of level between Bujongolo and Fort Portal 2,249 „ Total difference of level between Edward I'eak and Fort Portal •"5,323 metres (1 0,900 feet) Therefore, with the direct calculation, and omitting Bujongolo, we have a difference of over 32 metres (105 feet). Such a difference arises from the fact that whereas the law of Laplace is based on the hypothesis of a static equilibrium of the atmosphere, and of a temperature and lumiidity which decrease regularly with the altitude, this does not take place in the present instance. * In this estimate no account is taken of the tension of the aqueous vapour. 369 2 B Appendix B. In fact, the temperature l)eing 23° '9 Celsius (75" F.) at Fort Portal, ami r-6 Celsius (34°-4 F.) at Edward Peak, a difference of 22°-3 Celsius (72°-6 F.), if the decrease occurred proportionately to the altitude the temperature of Bujongolo should be aliout 7°-2 Celsius (-to' F.), whereas it is only 3°'9 Celsius (39°7 F.). This, therefore, means that the column of air has a lower temperature* than is assumed liy the theory, so that to an equal difference of pressure corresponds a less difference of altitude. Lastly, in connection with determinations of this nature, it is not to be forgotten that results now well established are : — 1. That heights calculated by means of thermo-barometric observations are generally found to be greater with measurements made by day compared with those made by night. They present a considerable daily range with the maximum value shortly before the maximiuii daily temperature, and the minimum one or two hours before sunrise. The extent of range is influenced bj"- the season, the local conditions, and the state of the sky. 2. That the altitudes calculated with the niean daily or monthly values of the observations are found to be too low in winter and too high in summer ; with the annual mean they differ little from the actual heights. * Caused probably by the great masses of ice on Buweiizori. 370 III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. O H O Ph Q < W W PQ H W P3 Q W 02 I— » o o cc is O H K H »o -;: j= M P=( o ij « hi a ;5 < « -t1 c r' '^ -^ _ ^ -M «j ^ £ S M M 1 "= tJD '— -J tc SB To "3 1 ^ a. ^^ i- ■^ -- ^ .Q ^ t. J^ 02 O 11 1 i §1 O CJ^ c* CJ 1 o a d — — — .a ~ -S ^ _^ - — r— ^ — — - tc .5? -^ S ■ - so P ™ ^ ■^ s 1 ■^ S g c3 od K K S a g ^ ^ ^ 1 en 03 aj OQ 02 yi •uoisuax ^ CD CO U3 OCT X O C5 05 S to C5 inoda^ S t^ o ■* If: o o lO <-( i^ w o t^ I— 1 r-( rn -- ""■ r-. N r-t (M rt « l-t i-i 1 , 9 , o c o o O o •.•: o o o . •mniaiuin - 1 i 1 -^ ■M -f l-•^ r) S5 '"* •"^ f— ^H i-( ^ r-i lO , o O C U3 O o o o lO 1.0 s •rammxBj^ °l » 1 ;. X O Oi a> rH CO a o (M N m (N (N IM M CO M Wl g o E-i la (M t~t- ^" t- « N t^ N t^ cc O •aoo^ "t-ffi ao o l> lO 00 CO 00 •* CO CO M W TO — ' o n >« o \o O) — o CC CD tn to in la -* to tc cc CD CO CO CO ?o n ?J T) M 01 C'l CI M w ej Ti C-J C'l jnog ^^ " - ^^ " " " ■"^ « •a'bq CO i^ X Ci o -1 (N « . la :o ^* X C3 N « (M « (N O 5^. •qiuoH s .2 -2 •a 5 £:■ 1 -S S 3 a 5 3 a 3 3 ■i 1 J a fe W3 gn n i5 s 3 IS « S •aaqcan^ »-< M 03 ■* O CO t^ 371 Appendix B. 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I- 372 TIL— Meteorological, etc., Observations. . t— o X N d ^ a« 00 ^ o « P'-D ■j^ in .si H a* H 3 ffl O = ^s 3 » g ^ CO K" ■"" -*■ . !> Bk i id ■■D ir-— 1^ 1 S cs ai ira in 4J r^lQ irt '? w ^ '~ 3)2 •J* ■M -f *" m » - t- 3 3 O .aa tn -* ?1 S-« ^ 3 ?* f* 9 r- gj « •n 3p «3 ^5 « » « >i^ — cS C o s .00 M _l t^ £?■ P ep m t— 1 a lo in c» » » to w M 0- H t ■A 5 O a a* 1 >, 3* >> S 09 S n> 3 •-3 O O §1 !-55 t^5 •o to S ?i; ec S 3 — ™ 373 Appendix B. Table IV. ENTEBBE. FORT PORTAL. u a Pressure in inches. Asso- ciated therm. F. Psychrometer. Pressure in inches. Asso- ciated therm. F. Psychrometer. Months. Dry therm. F. Wet. therm. F. Dry therm. F. Wet therm. F. o O 0 O o o Januarv . . 7 26 -281 66-8 66 •S 64 8 24 969 59 3 57-6 56 1 i> ■ ■ 14 •245 77 9 76^0 70 4 24 950 73 (J 74^3 65 6 <, 21 •2.57 69 4 69 1 66-6 24 -956 62 7 61 7 59 5 Februarv. . 7 •276 67 7 66^8 64 3 24 964 59 6 58 0 55 1 )> • • 14 •236 81-3 79 1 71 3 24 950 76-4 76 1 64-1 »» 21 •229 70 -5 70^0 67 3 24 954 61-7 60 7 57-7 Mareli . . 7 •264 68 6 67 8 65 1 24 -973 62 1 61 1 53 8 J) • • 14 ■217 76^8 74 9 68 9 24 943 75^0 73 3 65 2 „ 21 •245 70-6 69-9 66-9 24 958 63 •O 62 5 60-3 April 7 •299 69 4 68-5 66 0 24 -995 62-2 60 6 58-8 ', 14 •244 77 1 74^7 69 5 24 974 78 •a 75 4 66 3 >• 21 •244 69 8 69-9 66 9 24 979 63 1 62 6 60 1 October . 7 •257 66 3 65 3 63 9 25 098 65-3 64-1 60 1 « 14 •221 79^0 76 1 69-9 25 -075 72-3 69-9 62-7 ,. 21 •241 69-6 69^0 66-4 24 863 63-5 65 2 60 0 November 7 •272 65 '7 65 1 63-9 25 •067 65-9 61 -9 59 5 j> • • 14 •229 77^8 75 5 69-4 25 048 72^9 71^8 65 1 >• 21 •247 69 5 68 9 66 6 24 904 63 0 65-7 59 0 December 7 •262 66 4 65-4 64 2 25 025 64 1 59-7 58^4 )> • ' 14 •227 78^1 75^0 69 3 25 098 75 0 71 9 64 9 »i • • 21 •246 69 8 69 3 66 4 25 885 64-2 68 5 62 0 Means 26 -648 71^8 70^6 67 1 24 982 66 8 65 8 60 6 Correct pres -ure r educed to 0° and in u im... H„ = = 664 -28 H = 63 7-70 TempenituK * m c entigradet .... .... ^ = = 21-4 / = 1 8^8 Vapour tens ion ii 1 mm. - f. = = 15^7 f= 1 17 37-t III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. J- '^ "^ = e ^ _£ i -^ 2* £ c -i; n "*" -f ■ tXJ ..^ c tl 3 - — — ■ = .- ^ ^ 5 3 -3 ^i; - 1 £ i X 0 S ^ X o c c - ■^ " i * illl K- 03 is QQ h) ^^O s -i '^ -e -e _ ^ tc ii .o'.Sf ■< - — -^' — ^ ■^ r_ U f^ V ::. 2 - ^ .:£ M - "-' - ^ - -5 ^ C» ^1 -^ C-. M o '•c a ■uotstioTT jnodi: I 9 ^^ "7 =P o o o O CS C Li (N 'M " — 1.0 IC o o o .7 "utmmnijij o„ as ■^ -# Ol CO 1 T— ( I— ( ^-f iH % o c o 1": 1-? o "luniinxiij^ ^"x X _ -r^ a c 1 P. S :^ j'l CO M ■"^ t^ j> ot r* t* M 1> •M °co -o lO o m ^ • ' • • o = 5d i> S ■f ;? 1 I 1 c5 t| J 5 ^ a a laquin^ rH W ?o -f 1": •c t* H I— I Q o o o > Vapour Tension. »^ X O '* I^ X t^ O f- T-l ■^ X I-^ OC ^ O C -^ C T;) O B. S 9 9 "I** r • 7^ ^ ?3 IC O -^ CC CD ^ CO C^ W W W N M w Pressure reduced to 0 \ H.. ^ M 1^ O C^ CD C5 QO «5 ■* C; !p 7^ TO J>I^ X X X Oi X CC CO CO CO CO CO CO rl ^ „ - - - J 5 = = = = = = — ' ?1 CO ■* O X l> 375 Appendix B. o o CD *^ O •t-5 .M < < o > o 05 v: ,_, m o y w H m 5^ H D p^ i-s o X H > lO t> o rain. 1. in. ■^ "-• s; =i 1 55 ^ sr. - = s.S . = fi = - — ~ ' — ic S 5 - s«= 5P = 5= lit 1 P.= i t i| '^«« ee3-3 >M •;:■:: rt -3^ .-^rtHcc c o c "^ ? " - .^-gl^-SW)^ 33 -2 -C 3 0«!;5;3^ o ^ £& u 11 i cq y> '"' M 3 X o O) 00 I- t- CTi t- 00 00 CC 3i O: Oi CI Ol 00 00 Oi Oi X) O Oi Ol 31 Ol XI O) lO in OV oo t-. 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X I- re :i: -4^ <:^ i-H a-. CO c-. « 5 o SS5 ^ J:^ ■;' M .. C-I QO bn — i- t-* ?i s ■ O "i o i^ ^ '"' ^ 3 pq ■S ei" i^ « CD a X r — ^ CO o Oi t^ CI o t^ r^ X {■- ?i ^ rH 1—1 o « o 1—) o O o o -<3 ^ 11 o ■^ *■ " * " " " •^ ' m 1- 3 tH ^ o 03 N 'i? OS N N V w f-i ^^ f-H ■^ " " " • •-4 3 : - .' - r - - r 2 •a a 1-3 X ,-^ o o « CO o GO '"' -H Oi iM cq ■M -N (M •dep^ [ am JO aaqranjj , . --V— \ J a jipnodsaj.i03 " • • " • ■ . . • . a • • M .^ I ; ■ * a M 5 09 5 Z 1 "o ci m si s o 0 1 3 < ^ > bJ s ■jaq ">'x: iH M r: -f" lO o t~ 37; Appendix B. p; H -^ „ j_~ tT r- S a 1 cd a; a ^ y d quart day cle uarter. 'j3 a> o 0 c ~ c .- fr- & o "0 N •§^ 1^ X ~ CO s f! a S — -^ «' °9 03 §•■§ '2s [/I h U "S.^ -3 a s H li 0 ^ (f a 3 3 g " a i S s o CO CO T-3 -* 1^ 1^ b 3;;; CO CO 00 ^«0 5b 1=^ p ^J r^ £ C 3 *— S iS S ^ £ lit^ E ■—;:'-«-. X cc C !£ M Ci « I-- c; X M cr. o -H CC CO \n -H <— ■ W Cl' c-i ;c t^ ^ a. ir: T l^ -t N -f l-H X C"! 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I.-* -<1 '^ h c £ :^ C -d ^ *H c > p -t1 1 o 1 <1 ' ■ ' ^ £ ' "0 C 0 tH t-' »o -w 0 d X m -p 05 CO Ci . . -M J:~ CO t^ cq o i^ 1— 1 . ■ tH d I— 1 R ^-o >> s ~ r :; - :; - - s - - P 5 p ? o CO X CS G5 Ci o o T— 1 uo ZD ^ ■dRj tiipno ojaquiny dsajjoj o : cc - CO ■- X c-. ;^ fN ' ' * ' 1 o u • 1" ■ " • • « Oj * * -3 33 " *J * " « «-J o 2 d) f i ^ g c 3 (5 ^ 1 (2 2 e3 h- < ^ s- 33 Ph u 1— 1 TS 'c3 en -< — ,_^ >-^ T3 C 2 £ o o & lit ?^ &, in P, p. _rt ? s ? ra 3 OJ S ed 5 s 4J O 1— 1 o L, CS ci rt tK cc e' hJ 6 C o f^ 0 S 0 0 ■J9q ranx X o o :; ■M CO -* CO I-H X 05 s 378 ni. — Metecn-oloojical, etc., Observations. « g ^ ^c t-*"? — 1 1 ^ .S £ s i^ *5 i b ^ 2i 13 .S'l b ■e 3-J o 'o s .- .3 -s 1" '3 5 .i ^ > Mia o s a i C 1 (2 13 a > o •i s -1 1 o a i s S g f x_£ ll O t CD 1 w —A. x-^ c ^ r" — < — — -* ^ ■* -*— t -* ^ 9 *^ 00 'J* ; ■ o o =■-• _, \ —^ S IC o w •* i~ -t L* N -# ^ Tj- 5 2 X -*« .« c »-- LO c; X M X t- t^ :m ^ *M c-i — ^ O CO o o X- X -? t^ c: -t ri ^ CQ Tj- J- r^ X iO -r* (ID a 3D M an c: o 05 CS — O -*" ^" ■*" -*" ■^" -^ ^" -*' N C5 CO ^ »-( ^^ ^H ^^ ^H tFH ^" .-< ^4 I.H .- ^- -^ 1— t ^^ J^ o ,* r^ ,^ _^ .„ M i>. ^^ o c: CO •^ ri s re ^ 1— ^ X o ■^ o rl cs " '■" --- """ '"^ -* O '^ ■* CO lO CO lO ^ »o t^ LO c. ^ I^ ^ ■■D rH 'i' -^ X n r; o o P _ -f -^ w X C^' i~ rS S i^ «: o X o o CO ** ■^ 'J ^ LT € ^ CO lO o o H •^ c o < fa -; o fa fa 'I -5 f2 C «— t M t^ := X ^ t- o c: t~ g a ¥ g X) t^ cs 1— 1 " "^ <-i ^^ "^ X i-H CO CO i-H s 1— 1 t^ _ , „ _ - ^ , „ ^ , _ _ , , ~ - - - " ' ' " ^ o M N CO (St- i:- J> t- X X X C5 o o r-1 to t^ CO cq (M (M N N M 7Q W iq w N M N eD CO g ■* «i *—- ^- "^S 3 2 i-> o — ' „ N CO ■* a o -• 3 CO 1— 1 O " 1:- X cs M •N N N w 04 S CO ;:i r- 1 -^ ■^ N CO ;- .= ^ ; ^ V : ■ Cj ; 23" 2 '« i X cs l| CO -5 o : ^ _■*» © : ■ : l£ 1 > o s 5 o 3 5 > > 5 5 ~ |5 1 2 o 3 ^ o l-q CQ n O o O t-H !» •-^ d < M -^ -f* L*^ — . t^ X a „ —> M CO ^ LO CO ^ M 7) M rj ?I 71 ^ N s rc " ro " ?0 CO 379 Appendix B. ^ .-So 7,-^^ SO < in ^ o '^■S n S — AS:' S Suiptiodsajjoj •jaqran^ 3 S Is^S 1-5 .S - J J^ts^ "S ^ -""^ o£-S 5^-^ls S s^ ?5 o s ^1 a — • " o 03 ^ CO a. i^ o j=-3 S 8 b «0 CO ^ ■-C o o XiOaot- 00-- xcD co" n' co" !n" CO f-T of i-T cc « :^) Ci O C -V -# »o Lo ts ai O I— I X X O t— O 35 t> "^^ •— ' — c; o 05 IJ3 co" m' -t' cc" ■m' ai" r-T «3 o I o CM I -- t. K -< a. o o cc X T-H in lO i - o l-H 1-5 "-■ r-< ^ ^ ^ '-' ^ 1— ( f-' , with which is associated a little minute hiotitr, while qnaii: and felsjuir l)ecome rare. In this second variety the schistosity and the cleavage are clearly seen. The two mica-schist types form beds of varying thickness, either standing quite apart or else passing gradually into one another. They are always and 388 Summary of Geological Observations. everywhere rich in tonrmalinc uiul metallic ores, ilmenilp, rhromUe, hematiU and magnetih. In some places garml anil apufiti' are also noticed, while in the schistose surfaces fine filirous aggregates of riianite and xilliiiiiuii/c are common. On the Kichuchu Plain, hesides the existence of a lahradorite yncm, the presence is conspicuous of some dikes of bamlt, which ramify and intersect the gneiss-mica-schist formation. This basalt, which constitutes the only evidence of recent volcanic action met by us in the range, is microcrystalline and of holocrystalline type. On the Biamba Plain I further met a diuhusr in which the opaque element is represented by chromite alone. Towards 12,000 feet the zone of the mica-schists disappears, and the greenstones come to the surface ; these constitute exelu-sively ,Mts. Baker and Stanley, and are associated with gneiss on the other heights visited by the ex'ijedition. On the western slope of ilt. Baker the identical mica-schists reappear, which we had met in the Molniku Valley, but on the west side they range somewhat higher than on the east. The zone of the greenstones is constituted essentially of an amphihiilili- schist, in which the schistose element is more or less evident; it is usually- micro- crystalline and formed of hornhlendf with quartz, and in the second place frhpar (mostly andesite), and in this case it passes over to a diorite schist. From this amphibolic schist are developed some varieties due to the substitution of (K'tinuUtf for hontlilijndt', or else to its association with (jdrnrt, lilofitf and pi/id.reni-. Abundant in these rocks are ilincnite and epidole, the latter also forming numerous beds, veins and nodules, some of which are of extraordinary thickness, as much as 30 feet in the longer axis. Moreover, numerous beds of (jmirtzite everywhere accompany the amphiliolic schists, with which in the various mountains are associated other rocks in the following way : — Mt. Baker. — Qvartsiferous dimile ; compact amphibolite which forms the Edward Peak, on the summit of which are numerous fulgurites; cri/slaHiiie limestone : chlorite schist, epidosyte, grenatite ; diubase. At several points on this mountain are noticed some lenticels, geodes and small veins of pyrites, calco-pyrites and ilmeitile, with jelspars, ijuart: and calcitr ; on Wollaston Peak a small vein of galena with a gangue of calcite crops out. Mt. Stanley. — Compact amphibolite ; amphibolic schist with large garnits, diorite and lahradorite diorite which forms the Alexandra Peak, and probably also the Margheiita ; it is noted for its various types of fulgurites, epidodtes and diabase. On this mountain also pyrite and especially ilmcnite are plentiful, as are also copper ores : chulco-pyritc tetrahedrites, malachite. Mt. LtiGi Di Savoia. — Here also amphibolic schist crops out, although 389 Appendix C. the inouiiiaiu is essentially constituted of gneiss, the hiotitc variety and uikivriine being common on the lower parts of the mountain. This gneiss, associated with wka-xchMts, may be traced from Ibanda liy the Mahoma Valley, not only up to the crests of the mountain, liut probably also extends to the south and west of the range. It should be mentioned that in Mt. Lnigi di Savoia there are lai'ge dikes of macroscopic pcf/iiiati/e i-ich in f ( Jcological Ohsorvntions. Tovviirds 9,000 foot tho poisistoiitly luuiii.l cliiiiulo j^ivos riso to tho zono of tho eryptojiuius, :uid to tlio Imgs that ooiistitiito oiio nf tlic chjilitotoiistic teiituros of Kuwoiizoii, Fioin this ;iltitiistr:itiini is dovohipod ;i vigorous vogotiitioii of niossos, hi'p:itica' (livoi-worts) and liolions, \vhi^■ll sprcid a thick iiianth^ ovor tho protiiuiing rocks, tho orratio liouidors and tho trunks of iho troos, whothor li\ ing oi' falion with age, and for oontiu'ios aoounuihitiug on tiio siu-faoo of tlio ground. Over this ovorl^dug stratum of hog ami vogotahlo (h)tritus thoio is Imt n slight How of water, absorhed ;is it is ;is l)y a lingo sjiongo. Tho snrfato layer thus forms a protootiiig oarpoi for tho rocks « hirli. wiioii ihcv i:iii ho ijoon iindornoath, appear to ho relatively inlart, escaping as they do in gi'oat measure from the erosive phenomena. Beyond tho lioggy zone tho smt'.-ii-c action quatorialis, Coynctti. Alma Aloysii Sabaudise, CocjneMi. Nematoids ... Strongylus miuutoitles, I'lininii. Strongylus Cavallii, I'aniim. Uncinaria muridis, I'artina. Physaloptera Aloysii Sabaudiw, rarona. Physaloptera Ruweiizorii, Parana. Of all the groups of animals above-mentioned the expedition collected other already known species ; many of these had not yet been recorded in the Uganda and Ruwenzori regions. Hence, in respect of the distribution of animal species also, the exf)edition has made valuable contrilnitions to our knowledge of the African fauna. SUMMARY (3F THE PLANTS COLLECTED BY THE EXPEDITION OF THE DUKE OF THE ABEUZZI ON THE RUWENZOBI RANGE. Embryophyta Siphonagama (Auct. E. Chiovenda et F. Cortesi). Species collected ... ... 93. New Species ... ... 18. Graminaceae ... 1. Andropogon moliukensis, Chior. 2. Deschampsia ruwensorensis, Chioi: 3. Festuca gelida, ( liior. 4. Oxytenanthera ? ruwensorensis, Chiw. 397 A})pendix C. Asteraceae ... 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. iL'. Hosacese ... 13. 14. 1.5. Ruhiaceae ... IG. Urticaceae .. 17. Ciassulaceae ... 18. Helichry.sum Diici.s Aprutii, Cliiov Seiiecio coreop.soides, Cliior. Seiiecio Pirottie, Chior. Senecio Mattirolii, Chim: Seiiecio Ducis Aprutii, Chiov. Senecio Koccatii, Chiov. Cai-duus blepharoleptis, Chiov. Erlangea squarrosiila, dtior. Ak-hemilla Roccatii, Ciiit. Ak'hemilla Ducis Aprutii, Curf. Alchemillu tiiik'ntata, Corf. Euliia ruwenzoreii.sis, Curt. Parietaria ruwenzorensis, Cori. Seduni Diici.s Aprutii, (^ll■t. Pteridophyta (Auet. K. Pirotta). Species collected : Hynieiiophyllaceffi. Cyatheacese PolypodiaceEB Lycopodiacese 1 1 20 2 24 New species ..; 4 Cyatheacese... ... Cyathea Sell*, /'//WAr (ad.) (int.). Polypodiaceae ... Woodsia nixalis, Pirntta. Asplenium Ducis Aprutii, Pimtta. Elaphoglossuni Ruwenzorii, I'lwttu. Musci (Auct. G. Negri). Species collected ... 38 New species ... ... 22 Sphagnum Aloysii Sabaudise, Negri. Sphagnum Ruwenzorense, Negri. Dicranum petrophilum, Negri. Campylopus sericeous, Negri. Campylopus Cagnii, Negri. Fissidens Moliukensis, Negri. 398 Botanical List. Musci — canhl. Leptdontium Gambaragarae, Negri. Tortula Cavallii, Xetjrl. Anoectangium Sellaj, Xiijri. Anoectangium fuscum, Xc(jri. Anoectangium flexuosum, X>'//rL Zygodoii Roecatii, Xci/ri. Zygodon hirsutum, Xei/ri. Amphydium Aloysii Sabandise, A^egri. ^laeroinitriuin fragile, Xci/ri. Brachymeiiium Cagiiii, Xei/ri. Pohlia Aloysii Sabaudise, Xnjri. Bryum Selh*, Xc(jri. Breutelia auronitens, Xegii. Catharina?a Cavallii, Xegri. Polytrichum cuprcuni, Xgri. Braehythccium Koceatii, Xegri. Hepaticae (Anct. G. (iola) Species collected : Marchantiaceie sp. ... ... ... 3 Jungermanniaceie anakrogynoe .sp. ... i Juiigermanniacese akrogynaj sp. ... LMi sp. 33 New species ... 16 Marchantia Cagnii, Golu. Marchaiitia Sella>, Golu. Marchantia papyracas, Gola. ^letzgeria ruwenzorensis, Gola. Symphogyna Sella>, Golu. Syraphogyna Aloysii Sabaudi;e, Gola. Anastrophyllnm Gambaragara?, Gola. Plagiochila lajvifolia, Gola. Plagiochila Aloysii Sabaudiae, Gola. Lophocolea Cagnii, Gola. Bazzania Roecatii, Gola. Blepharostomnm Cavallii, Gola. Microlejeunea magiiilobula, Gola. Acrolejeunea fuscescens, Gola. 399 xA.ppendix C. Hepaticae — nm/, Maffirolo d Bresadola (Agaricineae). 400 Botanical List. SUMMARY. Total of the collected Species. Total of the Varieties. New Genera. New Species. New Varieties. Embryophyta siphonogama . . . 93 ... 18 ... Pteridophy ta ... ■24: ... 4 Musci 3S 22 Hepaticaj 33 16 ... Lichenes 83 5 4 AlgPe 39 35 15 O Fungi ... 27 1 6 337 35 16 71 6 401 2 D MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. NoTK. — Diiriiii; tlie expeilition of H.K.Ii. to KuuxMizori, Coiiini.indur Cagiii niulertook the magnetic readings, establishing sttitioiis at eight points: BujongoJo, llianda, Fori Portal, Kichionii, BiniUya, Knlelibc, Port Florence, Moniliasa. The magnetic instrument used I)}' him for the readings was modelled, not ijuite successfully, on the French " Brunncr," and of the small size suited for travelling. This defective apparatus made the ol)Servati(jns dittirult and fatiguing. The calculation and discussion of tiie results olitained were entrusted to Prof. L. Palazzo, Director of the Central Bureau of Meteorology, in ]{ome. This specialist was fain to conclude that, in order to derive any useful data from Cagni's i-eadings, he would have to rejjeat the readings with the instr\iment in question and with another more accurate, in one at least of the places where Cagni had estalilishcd magnetic stations. This would enalile him to obtain a point of reference which would lie useful foi' the reduction of the oliservations made at all the other stations. Fortunately s>\ch an ariangement is now rendered possible by the circiunstance that Prof. Palazzo, who left in July charged with a scientific mission to Zanziliai-, proposes to land on the way at Mombasa, and there take magnetic readings, Mombasa being one of the magnetic stations included in the itinerary of the IJuwcnzdri E.xpedition. In this way there is reason to hope that sufficiently correct and practical results may lie olitained from Cagni's magnetic observations. The publication of these observations is thus necessarily delayed till I'idf. Palazzo's return from his mission. They will then form the subject (if a separate memoir, which will be pulilishcd either in the Annals of the K(iy.il li\iliographic Institute, or iii those nf the Central Meteorological Bureau. 403 J ABRUZZI a'C^EastGree Points Pixed by observat Points Fixed by calculation oFF'Portal and Entebbe are based upon barometrical observations taken nical garden oF Entebbe, and near the residence oF the ColIectopoF F^ Portal Route oF the Expedition oF H, R. H. the Duke oF the ABRUZZI FROM MOMBASA- TO RUWENZORI May - August 190S J£l -« «'"° ^^='^'^ "P"" baromctr-cal obse^valiois taken in the Botanical garden oF Entebbe and near the res.denceoF the Collectorof f ' Fbrtal 1 ok jLat. 0° 20: 23" North I Long.aO'raVEastGreen" 3S = 1mile Steep Incline THE PEAKS, PASSES AND GLACIERS OF IB IP" ^T iM r^; z © m u A SKETCH-MAP BASED UPON THE OBSERVATIONS TAKEN BY THE EXPEDITION Of H.R.H PRINCE LOUIS OF SAVOY. OUKE OF THE ABflUZZI m the months oF June and July 1906 Compiled AND dh*wn ai 'he Hyobocraphical Institute of the R'. Itai Naw, under the care of the Dibectoo, Comm. M GIAVOTTO - Geno* 1906 ^.^5*4*^; ,1 Lat. 0° 20: 23" North JJOngoloUong.aO'rSA'EastGreen" 58 inches = 1 mile eps hed n feet GEOLOeKSAL Sk»»oh- Map Of TMli; CENTRAL GROUP OF Si TU ^3^ im F? ^ '© IB a by A. ROCCATI INDEX. Abnizzi, Duke of, liis associates, 29; staiMs on tlie expedition, 32 ; arrives at Entebbe, 56 ; leaves for RiiWi-nzori, 69 ; ascends Mobuku Glacier, 178 ; scales the highest peaks of Buweuzori, 181-5, 186-9; his work on the central group of peaks, 189 ; scales Mt. Speke, 239 ; Mt. Stanley and numerous passes, 243 seq. ; scales the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi, 268. Albert Edward, Lake, sighted by Stanley, 8; its position and general outline, 194 seq. Albert Nyanza, Lake, its basin outlined, 194 seq. Albert Nyanza explored by Gessi, 2. Alhertine Valley, 105, 107, 194. Albertine Depression, 194 seq. Alexandra Nile, Stanley's, 6. Alexandra Peak, 109; 186, 200, 241, 215, scaled by H.R.H., 181-5 ; scaled by Sella and Roccati. 248 ; its cornices, 225. Ankole, Kingdom of, 57. Aristotle, his " Mountain of Silver," 4. B. Bahinui natives, 98, 99. Baker Mt. (Johnston's Kiyanja), 153, 199, 201,257. Baker, Sir S., names the " Blue Mountains," 2, 242, 254. Bakonjo tribe, 124, 125, 159. Baumann, O., discovers the sources of the Kagera, 6 ; his " Jlountains of tlie Moon," 6. Behrens, T. T., liis aliimetric observations, 221. Bihunga, 115 seq , 164, 262. Blue Mountains, the, of S. Baker, 2. Botta, E., photographer, 31, 142. Bottego Peak, 238, scaled by H.R.H., 270. Broclierel, J., porter, 30. Buaniba canij), 132. Bujongolo station, 132 seq. ■. return fnn 261 seq. Bujuku Lake, 232, 264. Bujuku Valley, 124, 126, 178, 203. Butagu Valley, 10, II, 204. Butanuka village, 118, 163. Butiti camp, 93. Buvuma Island, 52. Byndia, 282. Cagni, IT., topographer and magnetic obser- ver, 29 ; his illness, 65 ; rejoins the espedition, 137, 163 ; his magnetic observations, 263. Cagni, Mt., 141, 202, 255, 256. Camp, Nos. I, 146 ; II, 378 ; III, 176 ; IV, 191, 192; V, i-35; VI, 240; IX, 266; X, 268 ; XI, 275. Oastellani, Dr. A., discoverer of tlic Sleeping Sickness germ, 51, 55. Cavalli Pass, 202, 241. Chawa River, ll!i. Climate of Ruwenzori, 26, 27 ; of Uganda, 79, 80. Cuniiees, a characteristic' feature of llie higher ridges, 225. X). David, J. J., explores Ruwenzori, 15. Dawe, M. T., his botanical expedition, 15. Dueru, Lake, 105. Duwona camp, 106. Duwoni Peak, 13, 113, 123, 147, 178. Edward Peak, 17, 132, 146, 201, 219, 250, 258. EkMia Peak, si'aled by II.R.IL, 186-9, 200, 234. Emin Pasha, joins Stulilmann's espedition, 10. 405 Tnd c X . Emin Glacier, 241. Emin Peak, 148, 199, 231 -leq. Entebbe, capital of Uganda, 16 ; rcaclieil by tlie expedition, 55, 56 ; dejoription of, 58, 59; iti. meteorological station, 217; return of llie expedition from, 282. Fauna and flora of Ruwenzori, 22S-30. Fislier, A. B., explores Ruwenzori, 14, 15, 100. Fort Portal, arriyaV at, 97; description of, 97 ; route to Bujongolo, 100 secj. ; its position, 105 ; return from, 281, 282. FieshCeld, D. A\'., explores Buwenzori, 17. Freshfield Pass, 167, 202, 243, 255, 2.58. G. Gessi, Mt., 148, 201, 202, 238, 242, 259, 270 ; scaled bj II E.H., 268. Gessi, R., explores the Albert Jfjaiiza, 2. Glaciers on Buwenzori, 12, 134, 147; their great extent during the Ice Age, 223-4 ; their present state, 224 ; tlieir general character, 236, 237. Gnmt Glacier, 240. Grauer, R., ex]ilores Euwcuzori, 17. Grauer Rock and Glacier, 145, 201. Grauer's Camp, 158, 256; Pass, 257. H. HimaTallcT, 109. Hugues, Prof. L., on Plolcmy's " Alonntains of the Moon," 7 ; and .-Vpjiendix A. Ibanda camp, 112, 113 ; the general rendez- Tous, 259, 265, 277. Igini, I., the cook, 31, 159. lolanda Peak, 202, 238 ; scaled by H.R H., 268; Glacier, 216. Issango river, 10. Johnston, Sir JI., explores Ruwenzori, 12. Johnston Peak, 201. Kagera River, discovery of iLs sources, 6. Kampala, Uganda, 59, 60. Kanjangungwe Peak, 10. h'asongo camp, 109. Kavirondo Gulf, 46. Kavirondo tribe, 44. Kenia, Mt., its discoTery, 4. Kichuehu camp, 128, 129. Kigessi-Kissongo, Lake, 203. Kilimandjaro, Mt., its discovery, 4. Kivu, Lake, 194. Kiyanja Peak of Johnston (the Semper of Stuhlmann), 13, 140, 147, 152 ; its glaciers, 166 ; its lakes and scenery, 171, 172, 175. Kobokora, Lake, 263. Ivraepeliu, Mt., 10, 202. Krapf, discovers Kenia and Kilimandjaro, 4. Kuruugu torrent, 266, 274. Lugard, Capt., founds Fort Portal, 97. Luigi di Savoii, Mt., 153, 190, 191,200, 202, 251. M. Mahoma river, 119. Manureggio river, 275. Margherita Peak, 109, 179 : scaled by H.B.H., 181-85, 2U0, 269; its cornices, 225. Marinus of Tyre, quoted by Ptolemy, 4. Masai tribe, 42. Mengo, Uganda, 59. Migusi Valley, 266, 267, 268. Missossi ya Mwesi, Banmann's " Moimtains of the Moon," 6. ilitiaua camp, 90. Mobuku Valley, 11, 12, 17, 100, 101 seq.; route taken by most of the explorers, 21 ; Glacier, 17, 143, 178 ; River, HI, 120, 126. Moebius, Mt., 10, 200, 247. Molinelli, Dr. A. C, me lical attendant, 29, 88. Mombasa, railway tenninus, 15,37; history of, 3 t, 35. 406 Ind ex. Moon, the nioimtaiiit. of, Ptolemy's, -l; Speke's, 5; identiSed by St:ui!cv with Ruwriizori, 5. Moore, C. S., explores Eiiwenzori, 11, 12. Moure Peak, 14(i, 15.5, 2(11, 26S. Mpango Valley, lufi. X. Nairobi railway station, 41, 42. Nainusha, Lake, 191. Nakitawa camp, 120. NapoleoTi Gulf, 52. Nfumbiro Mt., Speke's, 5. Ngeinwimbi Peak, 10. Nile Province, .57. Korlh Portal Peaks, 2f>(j. Nyamwamba Valley, 11. O. Oilier, C, Alpine guide, 30. Petigax, .1., .\lpine guide, 30. Petigax, L., porter, 30. Port Alice (Entebbe), 57. Port Florence, railway terminus, 16, 37. Portal Peaks, 148, 203. Ptolemy, his " Mountains of the Moon " Tariously identified, 5, ti. «. iiebmann discovers Kenia and Kiliniandjaro, 4. Rift Valleys, Kast Africa, 194 spy. Roccati, Dr., geologist and naturalist, 29, 142, 190, 245 ; his geological work, 2()3. Roccati Pass, 202. Route from Entebbe to Fort Portal, 70 seq., 90 ; from Fort Portal to Bujongolo, 100 seq. Route followed by most of the explorers, 21. Rudolf Province, 57. Rudolph Lake, 194. Euisamba, Lake, 8, 105, 195. Ruwenzori, Mts., discovered by .Stanley, 1 ; identified by him with the " Mountains of the Moon," 5 ; variously identified by others, 7, 8 ; explored by Stairs, 8 ; by Stuhlmann, 10 ; by Scott Elliot, 10 ; by C. S. Moore, 11 ; by Fergusson, Bagge, Doggett, Vale, Johnston, Wylde, War.l, David, Freshfleld, Mumm, Grauer, Tegart, Msddoi, Woosnam, Wolhiston, Dent, Leggc, and Carruthcrs, 14-19; table of its explorations from 1888 to 190(i, 20, 21 ; its highest peaks, 24, 179-85, 199 .vey. ; its glaciers and passes, 202 ; its cornices, 225-27 ; climate of, 27, 28, 227; first sight of, 93 J its main features, 103 seq. ; its drainage areas, 195; its nomenclature, 195, 19t> ; its position and general trend, 199 ; its watershed, 203 ; its river basins, 203 ; its ex])lorcrs prior to II.R. U. 204 seq. ; table of the errors made in the identi- fication of its peaks, 218, 219 ; compara- tive tables of heights taken by various ob.i^ervers, 220, 221 ; its non-volcanic origin, 222 ; its snow line, 227 ; terrace formations of its fluvial valleys, 227, 228 ; its flora and fauna, 228-30 ; panoramic photographs of the whole range, 208, 2(>9 ; all the ascents of the range made by the expedition tabulated, 278-80 ; return of the expedit.'on, 281, 282. S. Savoia Peak, scaled by H,R IL. 18fi-9; its height, 200. Scott Elliot explores Ruwenzori, 10, 11. Scott Elliot Pass, 176, 202, 232, 2.39, 242, 264. Sella v., photograplier, 29, 88, 142, 190, 245. Sella Peak, 202, 251, 2.52. Seuiliki river, the Issango of Emin Pasha, 10, 195, 204, 250, 270. Semper Peak, 10, 13, 147, 152, 201. Sosse Islands, Lake Victoria, 55. Sibyl steamer on Lake Victoria, 46, 282. Sleeping Sickness in Uganda, 52, 53. Snow line of Ruwenzori, 227. South Portal Peak, 255. Spekc Glacier, 235. Spekc, Mt., 109, 148, 199, 201, 231 .seq; sealed by II.R.H., 239 ; its rocky monolith. 266, 274. Stairs, Lt., explores Ru.venzjri, 8. Stairs Peak, 202 ; scaled by H.R.H., 2.55, 258. Stanley, H. M., discovers Ruwenzori, 1 ; identifies it with the " Mountains of the Moon," 5. 407 Index. Stanley, Mt., 110, 148, 200; includes tlie highest peaks: Margherita, Alexandra, Elena and Savoia, 200. Stuhlmann, F., explores Runenzori, 10. Stuhlmann Pass, 202, 232, 2-12. Siialuli natives, 82. Table of Ruweiizori explorers prior to H.R.II., dates, heights, and routes, 20, 21 ; table of all the Ruweuzori heights ascended by the expedition, 278-80. Table showing the errors made by various explorers in identifying the peaks, 218, 219. Tables, comparatiTe, of heights taken by various explorers, 220, 221. Tanganika, Lake, 194. Terrace iorniations of the Ruwcnzori river valleys, 227, 228. Thomson, Jit., 109 ; glacier, 200. Toro, Kingdom of, 57. U. Uganda wasted by the Sleeping Sickness, 53 ; extent of, 57, 58; its Kabaka (King), (31 ; constitution of, 01 ; former misrule, 02, 03 ; spread of Christianity and Islam, 03, 04 ; natives of, 74-70, 80-82. Uniberto Peik, 202 ; sealed by H.R.H., 242 ; glacier, 241, 242. Unyoro, Kini^dom of, 57. Victoria Nyanza, railway to, 10, 37, 3S, 39. Vittorio Emanuele Peak, 201, 238, 239 ; scaled by H.K.H.,243, 217. W. Waigga glacier, 266. Wa-Kikuyu, tribe, 42. Weismann Peak, 10, 202, 253. Wimi Valley, 11, 107, 204. Winifred, steamer on Lake Victoria, 46. Winspeare, E., topograplier, 29, 33 ; returns to Europe, 36. WoUaston, A. F. R., and U. 13. Woosuam explore Ruwenzori, 17, 18, 19. Wolhiston Peak, 140, 201, 256, 257. Wylde, W. II., explores Kuwenzori, 14. Yeria Valley, 11, 204. Yolanda, see lolanda. d' HAKHISUN AND SONS, PRIXTEBS IS ORDINARY TO HIS MAJKSTV, ST. .MARIINS LAM:, LII.NDOX, W,C. 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