CESS Army
Coast Eng Res.S
MP 11-75
(AD-AQ9 @33)
Sand Level Changes
on
Torrey Pines Beach, California
by
Charles E. Nordstrom and Douglas L. Inman
MISCELLANEOUS PAPER NO. 11-75
DECEMBER 1975
DOCUMENT
COLLECTION /
Approved for public release;
distribution unlimited.
Prepared for
U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS
COASTAL ENGINEERING
RESEARCH CENTER
Kingman Building
Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060
Reprint or republication of any of this material shall give appropriate
eredit to the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center.
Limited free distribution within the United States of single copics of
this publication has been made by this Center. Additional copies are
available from:
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ATTN: Operations Division
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Contents of this report are not to be used for advertising,
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constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such
commercial products.
The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official
Department of the Army position unless so designated by other
authorized documents.
8
WWM
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REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE
1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO.| 3. RECIPIENT'S CATALOG NUMBER
Mees
4. TITLE (and Subtitle) 5. TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED
SAND LEVEL CHANGES ON TORREY PINES BEACH, Miscellaneous Paper
7. AUTHOR(s) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s)
Charles E. Nordstrom
Douglas L. Inman
9. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADDRESS 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK
AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS
DACW7 2-72-C-0020
Scripps Institution of Oceanography
La Jolla, California 92037 D31194
11. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND ADDRESS 12. REPORT DATE
Department of the Army December 1975
Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERRE-CP) 13. NUMBER OF PAGES
Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 166
14. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & ADDRESS(if different from Controlling Office) 15. SECURITY CLASS. (of this report)
UNCLASSIFIED
15a. DECLASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRADING
SCHEDULE
16. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of this Report)
Approved for public release; distribution unlimited.
17. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abstract entered in Block 20, if different from Report)
18. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES
19. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number)
Torrey Pines Beach, California Visual wave observations
Beach profile measurement Recording depth gage
Seasonal sand levels
20. ABSTRACT (Continue on reverse side If necessary and identify by block number)
Three parallel range lines were established along a straight beach at
Torrey Pines, California, and were surveyed at monthly intervals during June
1972 to May 1974. Offshore sand level changes were measured using reference
rods placed in the bottom at selected stations on each range line.
Beach profile measurements indicate that the beach underwent seasonal
changes in configuration which are related to changes in the wave regime.
DD , sibel 1473 = EDITION OF Tt NOV 65 1S OBSOLETE UNCLASSIFIED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered)
2 UNCLASSIFIED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)
20. Absitzwact (Continued):
During the summer months the beach profile progressively changed with the
seaward progradation of the berm crest by sand accretion. This change was
caused by onshore transport of sand from immediately offshore depths of less
than -20 feet (-6.1 meters) relative to MSL.
The transition from the summer to the winter beach profile was abrupt with
the coincident occurrence of high waves and tides. Periods of high waves
during high tides resulted in wave swash overtopping the berm crest and quickly
eroding the beach. The rapid shoreward retreat of the berm crest caused by
the offshore transport of sand was accompanied by a corresponding deposition
of sand offshore at depths less than -30 feet (-9 meters) relative to MSL.
2 UNCLASSIFIED
SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered)
PREFACE
This report is published to provide coastal engineers with profile
and sediment data collected during a 23-month survey of beach and offshore
sand level changes along a straight beach at Torrey Pines, California.
The work was carried out under the coastal processes program of the U.S.
Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC).
This report is published, with only minor editing, as received from
the contractor; results and conclusions are those of the authors and are
not necessarily accepted by CERC or the Corps of Engineers.
The report was prepared by Dr. Douglas L. Inman, Professor of Oceano-
graphy, and Charles E. Nordstrom, Associate Specialist in Marine Geology,
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, California, under CERC
Contract No. DACW72-72-C-0020. Data obtained under the contract was used
to augment and help evaluate similar information in the CERC Beach
Evaluation Program. The authors acknowledge the assistance of Michael
Kirk and Earl Murray in the collection and reduction of field data.
Dr. Craig H. Everts, Oceanographer, was the CERC technical monitor
LOE MUSMCOntracte under the supervasHonwok Dizi. Ji Galvin (Chie, Coastal
Processes Branch, Research Division.
Comments on this publication are invited.
Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166,.79th
Congress, approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172,
88th Congress, approved 7 November 1963.
JAMES L. TRAYERS
Colonel, Corps of Engineers
Commander and Director
IV
Wil
APPENDIX
A
INTRODUCTION .
1. Objective of he. Gime
2. Previous Work
TORREY PINES BEACH STUDY AREA
FIELD PROCEDURE
1. Bench Marks
Profile Surveys
Reference Rods F
Recording Depth Gage
Visual Wave Observations
WMBWhN
DATA REDUCTION PROCEDURE
BEACH PROFILE CHANGES Sas aoN Pahoa ye. oe
1. Seasonal Changes June 1972 - October 1972
2. Seasonal Changes November 1972 - April 1973
3. Seasonal Changes April 1973 - October 1973
4. Seasonal Changes November 1973 - es 1974
5. Storm Associated Changes : Gh age ae
CONCLUSIONS
PTE RATURES Gi E Da
DESCRIPTION OF RANGE LINES AND BENCH MARKS,
TORREY PINES BEACH, CALIFORNIA .
DISTANCE-ELEVATION DATA FOR BEACH PROFILES SURVEYED
AT TORREY PINES BEACH, CALIFORNIA
DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE RECORDING DEPTH GAGE .
VISUAL WAVE OBSERVATIONS FROM SOUTH RANGE, TORREY
PINES BEACH, CALIFORNIA
COMPARISON OF PRESSURE SENSOR ARRAY AND VISUAL
OBSERVATIONS OF WAVES AT TORREY PINES BEACH,
CALIFORNIA
PEOMMEDSBEACH PEROT WIEE Sse
DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPUTER PROGRAM FOR PLOTTING
BEACH PROE TEESE:
SEDIMENT ANALYSIS DATA .
rage
44
7
105
130
145
158
165
CONTENTS
FIGURES
_cLontispiece —Aerial photograph of Torrey Pines Beach study area
1
2
6a
6b
6c
10
Location map .
Location of range lines, bench marks, and reference rod
stations for beach profile measurements
SUmVeVvanpEOceduer:
Comparison of reference rod measurements and acoustic
soundings, South Range
Schematic diagram of recording depth gage
Berm crest and offshore sand level changes on South Range,
June 1972 to June 1974
Berm crest and offshore sand level changes on North Range,
Jume UVV7Z oO dIvine 97/4!
Berm crest and offshore sand level changes on Indian
Canyon Range, June 1972 to June 1974
Comparison of October and November 1972 beach profiles
Comparison of beach profiles measured at North Range,
23, Oeeooeie W/Z
Comparison of beach profiles measured at North Range,
25 Orono 197/S
Onshore movement of sand at North Range
Page
16
17
21
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SAND LEVEL CHANGES ON TORREY PINES BEACH, CALIFORNIA
by
Charles &. Nordstrom and Douglas L. Inman
1. INTRODUCTION
i Objective of the Study,
The principal objective of this study was to measure beach profiles
along a straight beach with uncomplicated offshore bathymetry that is
exposed to ocean waves from all offshore directions. Emphasis in this
study was placed upon the accurate measurement of beach profiles in order
to determine changes in profile configuration caused by wave action.
Profiles were measured from the beach backshore seaward to a depth of
about 60 feet (18 m) at monthly intervals for a period of 23 months.
Additional measurements were made following storms and periods of high
waves in order to document the extent of profile modification associated
with these periodic events. Daily visual observations and measurements
by pressure sensors provided a record of the waves incident to the beach
during the duration of the study. Comparison of the profiles from month
to month and seasonally was made to determine the erosional and deposi-
tional parts of the profile and the volumes of sand involved in onshore-
offshore transport.
Zo PESVROUS Worl
Many studies have been made of the changes in beach profiles under
waves; however, most field data are difficult to interpret in terms of
seasonal changes in configuration and onshore-offshore sand transport
because of the inaccuracy in the measurements. Most beach profiles are
only measured from the backshore seaward into the surf zone, usually ending
near the mean sea level datum. This type of data is useful for document-
ing changes in the beach foreshore and sand levels on the subaerial beach
but does not document the onshore-offshore sand transport. In order to
adequately measure the actual changes in profile configuration and onshore-
offshore transport, the beach profile must be accurately measured to the
seaward limit of significant sand movement.
Studies of sand level changes on southern California beaches have
been made by Shepard (1950), Shepard and Inman (1951), Inman (1953),
Brunn (1954), and Inman and Rusnak (1956). However, of these previous
studies, only Inman and Rusnak (1956) made accurate measurements of sand
level changes over the offshore segment of the profile. The Inman
and Rusnak study was made on a shelf area between two branches of
La Jolla Submarine Canyon so that sand movements were influenced by the
refraction of waves over the complex nearshore bathymetry. This study
of beach profile changes and onshore-offshore sand transport 1s similar to
that of Inman and Rusnak (1956) but applied to a straight beach with
uncomplicated offshore bathymetry.
II. TORREY PINES BEACH STUDY AREA
The site selected for this study was a segment of Torrey Pines Beach
in San Diego County, California. The study area consisted of a straight,
fine-grained sand beach located approximately 2 miles north of Scripps
Institution of Oceanography. A 1.6-mile (3.0 km) segment of this beach
that has gently sloping offshore bathymetry and is terminated shoreward
by a 300-foot (91 meters) high sea cliff was used for the beach profile
measurements (Figure 1). This beach satisfied the basic requirements
for a straight beach with uncomplicated offshore bathymetry that is
exposed to waves from all offshore quadrants. In addition, the site has
the advantage of being readily accessible on land by a private road and
from sea by use of boat launching facilities at Scripps Institution.
Torrey Pines Beach is at the southern end of a littoral cell that
extends northward 51 miles (82 km) to Dana Point. Sand is supplied to
this cell by streams entering the ocean along this stretch of coastline
and from minor sea cliff erosion (State of California, 1969). Waves
cause a net longshore transport of sand to the south through the littoral
cell to Scripps Submarine Canyon which is located 1.5 miles (2.8 km)
south of the study site. Chamberlain (1960) and State of California
(1969) have estimated the net littoral transport in the vicinity of Torrey
Pines Beach at about 2.6 x 10° ydYyr (2 x 10> m3/yr). Once in Scripps
Canyon, the sand is periodically transported by strong currents from the
nearshore zone through the canyon into deep water.
The study site beach segment undergoes typical seasonal changes in
configuration due to changes in wave climate. During summer wave condi-
tions, the beach has a 100- to 200-foot-wide (30 to 60 m) backshore, a
relatively steep upper foreshore, and a pronounced berm. Winter storm
waves overtop the summer berm and erode the backshore, thus reducing
the width of the exposed beach. Winter beach profile configuration is
typified by a gently sloping beach foreshore that in places extends
shoreward to the toe of the sea cliff. Accurate measurement of these
seasonal changes in beach profile configuration was the principal
OQDISCEUVS Oi tlais sicudhy.
Itt. FIELD! PROCEDURE
ills Bench Marks.
The beach at the study site is oriented true north-south so that
three range lines were established normal to the beach in a true east-
NORTH RANGE Ge
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SOUTH RANGE al
PRESSURE
SENSOR
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Su uly STi nica Se
CALIFORNIA
TORREY |PINES BEACH _
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LOCATION OF TORREY PINES
BEACH STUDY SITE
METERS
FINSTITUTION OF © ZOU9 BOE
/, OCEANOGRAPHY mer
DEPTH IN FEET
Figure 1. Location map.
west direction. A prominent canyon (Indian Canyon) cuts through the
cliffs to the beach at the study site so the central range line was loca-
ted near the mouth of the canyon for geographic reference. Another range
line was located 1,135 feet (346 meters) south of the Indian Canyon range
line, and the third range line was located 2,200 feet (670 meters) north of
the Indian Canyon range line. These range lines were named South Range,
Indian Canyon Range, and North Range to designate their geographic position
relative to Indian Canyon (Figure 2).
A level line survey was made from an established U. S. Coast and
Geodetic Survey bench mark to South Range along the top of the sea cliff.
This survey was made using a transit, rod and tape with calibration
marks of +0.01 foot (+0.3 cm) on horizontal and vertical distances. The
permanent position and elevation of two points were established on the
flat terrace above the cliff on South Range. These points are:
a. A point located at the base of the seaward monument of
the U.S. Navy measured nautical mile course.
b. A point located by a pipe driven into the ground within
a few feet of the cliff edge.
The elevation of the bench mark on the beach at South Range was deter-
mined by using a trigonometric solution. The vertical angle from the
established point at the top of the cliff and a point on the beach was
accurately measured with a transit. Then the "thin air’ distance between
the point at the top and bottom of the cliff was measured with a Hewlett-
Packard 3800A Distance Meter. These two measurements allowed the calcu-
lation of the vertical distance between the two points to within a frac-
tion) o£ ja! foot:
The exact location and elevation of the bench marks for Indian Canyon
and North Ranges were established by making a level line survey along the
beach from the South Range bench mark. The accuracy of the elevation
between the bench marks for the three range lines is about 0.01 foot
(0.3 cm). Appendix A has a description of the bench marks established on
Torrey Pines Beach and the notes from the bench mark surveys.
Each range line is physically located by two points on the range
at beach level. These points are marked by 1/2-inch-diameter stainless
steel pipe 3 feet long driven into the ground and cemented in place.
The seaward pipe is capped with a brass plug that is labeled as S10 I,
SIO II, and S510 III for South Range, Indian Canyon Range, and North Range,
respectively. The landward point on each range line is marked by an open
1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipe set back from the seaward point.
For protection from vandalism and natural erosion, the bench mark pipes
were set at the landward edge of the beach and up on the toe of the sea
cliff. The pipes were pounded into the present ground surface to reduce
their conspicuousness and increase their stability. All of the original
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bench mark monuments placed for this study remain serviceable and did
not require any repair during the term of the study.
De Profile Surveys.
Beach profile surveys were accomplished in two parts on the same
day: 1) the backshore and upper foreshore were measured from the bench
mark out to wading depths, on the low tide; and 2) the offshore part of
the profile was measured with a fathometer on a boat seaward from the
breakers, on the high tide (Figure 3). By doing the monthly surveys on
the date of maximum spring tidal range during daylight hours, overlap
of the two parts of the survey was usually achieved. High waves and
winds complicated the survey operation and introduced errors into the
fathometer survey of the offshore profile segment.
The land survey of the backshore and foreshore was done using a
transit, surveyors rod,and tape. Elevations were measured to 0.01 foot
(0.3 cm) and distances to 0.1 foot (3 cm). Alinement along the range
line was achieved by using flags to mark the two bench marks on the
range. Rod stations were measured at 10-foot (3 meters) intervals sea-
ward of the bench mark except where pronounced changes in the slope occur.
Measurements were made out into the water by the tapeman paying out the
tape in 10-foot (3 meters) increments from a fixed point at the water
edge. The land survey was terminated when the water became too deep
for the rodman to wade or the breaking waves made it impossible to plumb
the rod.
The offshore part of the survey was done with a Raytheon Model
DE719 survey fathometer used from a 16-foot boat. This is a portable
survey fathometer that allows for calibration to specific oceanographic
conditions of seawater temperature and salinity and is an ideal instru-
ment for the survey depths of this study.
However, use of a survey fathometer for measuring beach profiles on
the ocean involves additional errors inherent in reducing the fathometer
data to an actual bottom profile. These errors are due to the effect of
waves, tide, relation of transducer to water surface, etc., involved in
correcting the raw fathometer readings to the profile soundings. Saville
and Caldwell (1953) evaluated the accumulated acoustic sounding error
involved in measuring beach profiles with a fathometer by making repeated
soundings of a single profile over a short period of time, and comparing
them to lead line soundings. Their results show that the probable error
in this survey method is less than 0.5 foot (15 em). Thus, it is thought
with proper calibration and suitable care in reducing the data, that an
accuracy of +1 foot (#30 cm) was possible in using a fathometer for
the offshore profile measurements.
Positioning of the boat during the offshore part of the profile
survey was performed by a range and horizontal sextant angle system
Similar to that employed by Inman and Rusnak (1956). Each range line
LAND SURVEY
HIGH TIDE
A. PROFILE
REFERENCE RODS
AN ANS AS TS TINS TNS TAS YS NS TAS TAS TUS TM
RANGES |
FLAGS % BEACH | 8
De ie SURF ZONE |
SEXTANT
ANGLE
RANGE LINE
RANGE LINE
a B. PLAN
() SURVEY
BOAT
Figure 3. Survey procedure.
is marked by two flags for alinement on the range and horizontal sextant
angles were determined between the range and the marker flag on an adja-
cent range (Figure 3). Sextant angles were measured every 20 seconds
as the boat proceeded toward shore and were correlated with time marks
on the fathometer record. The distances along the range line were then
calculated from the angles and plotted with the appropriate sounding.
5 Reference Rods.
The offshore profile measurements made with a fathometer were not
accurate enough to detect small changes in sand level on the shelf. Thus,
in order to monitor these changes along the profile, reference rods were
placed on the bottom on each range using the procedure of Inman and Rusnak
(1956). Arrays of reference rods were placed at depths of -16, -24, and
-33 feet (-4.9, -7.3, and -10 meters) on each range. Additional refer-
ence rod arrays were placed at depths of -45 and -65 feet (-13.7 and
19.8 meters) on Indian Canyon Range (Figure 2). Each reference rod array
consists of four 3/8-inch brass rods that were 4 feet long and driven
into the sand bottom so that 1 foot of the rod was left exposed. The
rods were placed in a "T' pattern with 3 rods arranged in a line paral-
lel to shore and 1 rod offshore from the center rod of the line. Fig-
ure 2 shows the spacing of the reference rods and their number designa-
tion in the array. Some of the shallow reference rod arrays were changed
from a "T" to a "+" pattern with the addition of a rod with 2 feet
(61 cm) of exposed length placed 10 feet (3 meters) onshore from the
center rod of the line. This longer rod was added because sand deposi-
tion at the shallow reference rod stations buried the shorter rods in
winter. Absolute elevations of the reference rods were determined using
a sounding line at the time of installation. A diver held the line on
the bottom while an observer in a boat immediately above determined the
depth of water. This depth was then corrected to the datum of mean sea
level using the tide gage at the end of the Scripps Pier. Each depth
measurement was estimated to the nearest 0.1 foot (3 cm), using a grad-
uated sounding line. The mean of five measurements was then taken as
the depth of the bottom at the site of the rod. Mathematically these
measurements usually had a standard deviation of about 0.1 foot (3 cm).
However, there are operator biases and wire angle errors in the soundings
and additional errors in tide gage corrections that lead us to believe
that the probable accuracy of the absolute elevation is about 0.3 foot
(9 cm).
The reference rods were measured with each monthly survey of the
beach profiles. Measurements were made by divers who located the station
by range and horizontal sextant angle, marked it with a buoy, and found
the rods by underwater search from the buoy position. Positioning on
the surface was usually accurate enough to place the buoy anchor within
20 feet (6.1 meters) of the array edge. Often the buoy anchor was
placed within the margins of the array so that no underwater search was
required. The exposed length of each rod was marked on a piece of
plastic and measured at the surface. The reference rod elevations in
Appendix B are the average of four-rod measurements at each station, each
measured to the nearest 0.01 foot (0.3 cm) giving a probable error of
about 0.01 foot (0.3 cm) for the station. These measurements are rela-
tive to the top of the rod and are more accurate than the assigned sta-
tion elevation. The 0.01 foot (0.3 cm) accuracy is used in computation
of sand level changes as it is always referenced to the ''top of the rod"
and not a change in absolute elevation.
Measurements and soundings taken at each reference rod station were
used as absolute reference points for the fathometer data obtained from
the offshore surveys. Figure 4 shows a comparison of the reference rod
measurements and acoustic soundings made at the 33-foot (10 meters) sta-
tion on South Range. As can be seen, the acoustic sounding from the off-
shore surveys indicate depth variations of +1 foot (430 em) relative to
the lead line sounding depth of 33 feet (10 meters). These differences
are related to errors in the survey procedure since the reference rod
measurements indicate little or no change in actual sand level. Similar
differences were observed by Inman and Rusnak (1956, Figure 9).
4. Recording Depth Gage.
The beach profile surveys and reference rod data were supplemented
with soundings made with the recording depth gage that was developed for
this study. The instrument consists of a pressure sensor, logic cir-
cuitry, and a three-digit panel meter. An absolute pressure transducer
with a sensing range of about 13-30 psia was used in the instrument.
This sensor is capable of sensing water level changes of +0.08 feet
(24cm) in water up to -58 feet (-117.7 meters) in depth. Output from the
sensor was interfaced through an amplifier-low pass filter and a variable
gain amplifier to a digital display (Figure 5). The intent of instrument
design is to use an accurate pressure sensor to measure the water level
and then filter out the high-frequency oscillation caused by waves and
only read the mean depth. The low-pass filter used in the instrument has
a time constant of about 1 minute, so that only low-frequency water level
changes affect the measurements.
The physical assembly of the instrument is such that the pressure
sensor and logic circuitry are one package called the sensing package;
and the recording panel meter and its power supply are another package
called the recording package. The sensing package is mounted on a tri-
angular-shaped metal plate that assured proper orientation of the pres-
sure sensor to the bottom and prevented scouring into the sand bottom.
This package is lowered to the bottom at a station for the 53-minute
recording period with a surface float to mark its location for retrieval.
The measurement of water depth made by the pressure sensor is averaged
and retained by the logic circuitry for display. At the end of the
measurement period the sensing package is retrieved and once at the sur-
face the recording package is connected to its output for display of
the measured depth. Once the measurement is recorded on a data sheet,
the instrument is cleared with a reset switch to prepare it for the next
measurement .
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The recording depth gage is intended to supply beach profile data
from that segment of the profile near the surf zone where it is hazar-
dous to make a fathometer survey or to anchor the boat for a lead line
sounding. Deployment of the depth gage involved traversing the range
line quickly to a station very near the break point and then dropping
the sensing package as a sextant angle is shot at the station. After the
recording period the sensing package is quickly recovered by the boat
and the measurement is read. The instrument was employed in field usage
a number of times during its development, and was found to yield measure-
ments that were inconsistent with independent lead line measurements.
Each field trial brought further modification of the instrument design.
As a result, all field information obtained from the instrument during
this study has been used for calibration purposes and is reported in
Appendix C.
Sr Visual Wave Observations.
Wave energy incident to the study-site beach was documented by two
methods: (a) visual wave observations made daily on weekdays at South
Range; and (b) wave measurements made with a line array of pressure sen-
Sors llocawecl ate ei Glepeln OF —SS eee (—10 mecers)) On Soutin Ramee, Wisuall
observations were made using the same procedure as developed for the CERC
Beach Evaluation Program. Wave and surf observations made at the beach
level at South Range included an estimate of the height of the highest
one-third of the waves, the average period of 10 consecutive waves, and
the breaker type.
To supplement the visual wave observations at the beach level,
additional wave observations were made from a fixed point at the top of
a 300-foot (91 meters) high sea cliff at South Range. From this point
a visual estimate of the breaker angle and a photograph of the wave con-
ditions were made. The photograph was always oriented so that its bottom
margin was aligned with the beach in order to accurately illustrate the
breaker angle. Appendix D is a tabulation of the daily visual wave
observations from June 1972 through May 1974.
Wave measurements from the pressure sensor array are described in
a separate report to CERC including the conclusions of that study.
Appendix E 1s a comparison between the visual observations and the pres-
sure sensor array measurements for those dates with synoptic data. This
comparison indicates that the visual observations and pressure sensor
measurements are in general agreement for wave direction when wave refrac-
tion from the sensor array to the beach is taken into account.
IV. DATA REDUCTION PROCEDURE
All measurements of beach profiles for this study were determined
from the permanent bench marks established on the beach. Distances were
referenced seaward from the bench mark and elevations were referenced to
mean sea level (MSL). The mean lower low water (MLLW) datum is -2.7 feet
(-75.5 cm) relative to MSL at the study site so that all elevations can
be cross-referenced to MLLW if necessary.
At the time of the actual surveys data were recorded on field data
sheets designed to accommodate the measurements acquired from the land
and offshore surveys. The land survey data consisted of distances meas-
ured from the bench mark and rod readings measured with a transit. Data
reduction for the land survey simply involved calculating the elevations
relative to MSL datum. In addition, the fathometer data were compared
to lead line and depth gage soundings and the reference rod measure-
ments to verify their accuracy at specific stations on each range line.
The corrected profile data were then recorded on standard BEP
scanning forms (CERC Form No. 60, 4 August 69 and CERC Form No. 83-71,
26 May 71) for transmittal to CERC. At CERC these data were then
plotted for their files using a line printer. The distance-elevation
pairs for each survey point are given in Appendix B.
Plotting of the profile data for study at Scripps was done with
the use of a Burroughs 6700 computer and its 1ll-inch x-y plotter.
A short ALGOL computer program was devised to produce a computer-plotted
profile from the reduced survey data. These data were punched on IBM
cards for computer input. The program output is an ink plot of the beach
profile at a scale of 1 inch = 10 feet for elevation and 1 inch = 100 feet
for distance on one set of axes with an equivalent scale in the metric
system on the other axes. Plotted beach profiles for the surveys are
compiled in Appendix F.
Appendix G gives a description and listing of the beach profile
plotting computer program. Use of the computer to plot the beach pro-
files was found to accelerate the process of making comparisons between
different surveys since any two sets of survey data can quickly be
processed by the computer. Also, the IBM card files of the surveys
have been found to be a good reference library for making additional
copies of any specific survey or combination of surveys.
Visual wave observations were recorded on a standard BEP scanning
form (CERC FORM No. 120-72, 10 May 72) at the time of the observation
and simply forwarded to CERC for their files. Each visual wave observ-
ation was accompanied by a color transparency photograph taken as des-
cribed from the top of the sea cliff. These photographs were included
as part of the wave observations to be kept on file at CERC. Sediment
analysis data for samples collected from Torrey Pines Beach are shown in
NPE Isha V. BEACH PROFILE CHANGES
Beach profile measurements made at Torrey Pines Beach have been
compared from survey to survey and on a seasonal basis over the 25-month
period of the study. The most significant changes in profile configur-
ation occur seasonally so that the results of these measurements are
presented for seasonal time intervals.
Ie Seasonal Changes June 1972 - October 1972.
This study was initiated at a time when Torrey Pines Beach was
undergoing the change from a winter configuration to a summer confi gur -
ation. The first beach profiles were measured on 6 June 1972 at which
time the beach had developed a definite berm for the full length of the
study area. During the months of July, August, September, and October
the beach continued to accrete on the foreshore at all three range lines.
This accretion of the foreshore caused the subaerial beach to widen and
the berm crest to move seaward. The most likely source for the sand
deposited on the beach foreshore was from immediately offshore at depths
Of —-20 ect (-6.1 m) or less, as indicated by the progressive erosion of
the 16-foot (4.9 m) reference rods on South Range (Figure 6a). Similar
erosion at shallow depths also occurred on North and Indian Canyon Ranges,
although the magnitude and progressive removal of sand is not as apparent
(Figures 6b and 6c).
Profiles measured on 23 October 72 are representative of the fully
developed summer beach configuration in 1972. These profiles were char-
acterized by a sharp berm crest at all three range lines that separated
a wide flat backshore from a steeply sloping foreshore. The foreshore
slope gradually decreased seaward to form a relatively flat terrace
extending offshore from the MSL intercept to about -5 feet (-1.5 meters).
The seaward edge of this terrace is marked by a slight increase in the
profile slope at a depth of -5 to -10 feet (-1.5 to -3 meters) where the
gradual decrease in slope continues out onto the shelf. Formation of
the summer beach profile configuration was a gradual process of sand
accretion on the beach face and erosion at shallow depths seaward of
the surf zone over the period of several months.
Bn Seasonal Changes November 1972 - April 1973.
The summer beach profile configuration described in the previous
section remained intact until 18 November 72 when a storm passed through
the study area over a weekend. This storm brought considerable precipi-
tation, high winds and waves coincident with the spring high tides in
the month of November. A beach profile survey was made of the three
range lines on 21 November 72 immediately following the storm to document
modification to the beach. The 21 November 72 profiles indicated that
the pronounced berm that had developed on all three range lines was com-
pletely removed and the beach was cut back up to 100 feet (30 meters).
Erosion on the upper beach was accompanied by sand accretion immediately
offshore in depth of -10 to -30 feet (-3 to -9 meters). Reference rod
measurements made with this survey show accretion in excess of 1 foot
oe cm) on North Range completely covering the rods at a depth of 16 feet
-9 m).
Figure 7 is a comparison of the October and November 1972 beach
profiles at North Range which indicate that approximately 530 cubic feet
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of sand per foot (49 cubic meters per meter) beach length were eroded
from the beach face between +7 feet (2.1 meters) and -7 feet (-2.1 meters).
This erosion was matched by an accretion of about 600 cubic feet of sand
per foot (56 cubic meters per meter) beach length in depths of -8 to
=-25 feet (-2.5 to -7.5 meters) below mean sea level. Thus, it appears
that most of the sand eroded from the upper part of the beach was trans-
ported immediately offshore and deposited at shallow depths.
The profile measurements at Indian Canyon and South Ranges show
similar changes in profile configuration and volumes of offshore sand
transport related to the storm. This major change in beach configuration
was caused by high surf (up to 10-foot breakers) coincident with +6 to
+7-foot-high (1.8 to 2.1 meters) tides during the 4-day storm. The
high tides enabled the storm surf to overtop the berm crest and quickly
erode the beach.
After the storm of 18-20 November 1972, Torrey Pines Beach main-
tained a winter beach profile configuration with a more gentle foreshore
slope. Subsequent storms of lesser intensity during the winter months
caused additional erosion of the beach face and accretion at shallow off-
shore depths. Comparison of beach profiles from the three range lines
indicates that the beach responded to the winter storm waves in a similar
manner along the full length of the study area.
Figures 6a,b,and c show the progressive retreat of the berm crest and
related offshore accretion of sand from November 1972 to April 1973 dur-
ing the winter. As can be seen, most of the total amount of sand eroded
from the beach face during the winter was removed by the storm in Nov-
ember 1972. The remainder of the sand transported offshore during the
winter was progressively removed over several months.
Beach profile and reference rod measurements made on 11 April 73
show the final winter configuration of the beach profiles with maximum
retreat of the berm crest and the lowest foreshore slope. Figure 8
shows two representative profiles measured at North Range which indicate
the magnitude of the total seasonal change in profile configuration.
A comparison of the 23 October 72 and 11 April 73 profiles shows the
total amount of sand involved in the seasonal change in beach config-
uration. The quantity of sand eroded from the beach was about 1,500
cubic feet per foot (121 cubic meters per meter) beach length, and the
quantity accreted offshore totaled 880 cubic feet per foot (82 cubic
meters per meter) beach length. The inequalities in the amount of sand
eroded from the upper beach and the amount accreted offshore are pro-
bably a result of longshore transport of sand away from the vicinity of
the range line. Measurements made on the other range lines indicate a
Similar seasonal change for the entire section of beach under study.
25
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So Seasonal Changes April 1973 - October 1973,
Beach profile measurements after April 1973 indicate that the
upper foreshore of Torrey Pines Beach began to accrete and construct a
new summer berm. Beach profile and reference rod measurements made on
11 May and 6 June 1973 show accretion on all three range lines with the
initial onshore movement being the development of a bar at -3 feet
(-l meter) and the progressive accretion of sand at higher elevations on
the foreshore to form a new subaerial berm. Figure 10 shows this pro-
gressive onshore movement of sand at North Range during April to Septem-
ber 1973. The source of the sand accreting on the beach face was from
the area immediately offshore at depths of less than -33 feet (-10 meters)
as shown by the interrrelation of berm crest progradation and erosion
at the shallow reference rods (Figures 6a, b, and c).
The summer beach configuration in 1973 was best typified by the
profiles measured on 25 October 1973 when the berm crest had prograded
farthest seaward and the foreshore increased in slope. Examination of
the 25 October 1973 profile at North Range (Figure 9) shows the beach
configuration during the summer season. Approximately 1,300 cubic feet
per foot (121 cubic meters per meter) beach length accreted on the beach
face while 770 cubic feet per foot (72 cubic meters per meter) beach
length were eroded from depths of -10 to -20 feet (-3 to -6.1 meters).
Profiles measured on the other two range lines show similar changes
during this period.
4, Seasonal Changes November 1973 - April:1974.
The summer beach profile configuration shown by the 25 October 73
profile at North Range (Figure 9) remained until the occurrence of 6-foot-
high breakers coincident with a +7 foot (2.1 meters) high tide over 7 and
8 January 1974. This period of high waves caused the rapid recession of
the subaerial berm and reduction in slope of the beach foreshore. The
extreme high tides enabled the high breakers to overtop the berm crest
and quickly erode the subaerial beach.
Following this occurrence of high waves, two other periods of high
waves and a storm occurred during the spring causing only minor further
modification of the beach profile configuration. Figures 6a, b, and c show
the change in the position of the berm crest and sand level change at the
offshore reference rod stations during the winter and spring of 1973-74.
Final winter beach profile configuration is shown by the 4 April 1974
-rofile at North Range (Figure 9), with the farthest landward recession
of the berm crest and gentlest foreshore slope. Profiles at the other
three range lines also had similar winter season configurations.
Comparison of the 25 October 73 summer profile and the 4 April 74
winter profile at North Range shown,in Figure 9, indicates the maximum
seasonal sand level changes. The volume of sand eroded from beach face
was approximately 400 cubic feet per foot (37.4 cubic meters per meter)
27
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TORREY PINES BEACH-NORTH RANGE
DISTANCE IN FEET
800 600 400 200 0
T T Ws T
wall | ae
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200 150 100 50 (0)
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=n T Le ae TL
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A EL EAS)
200 150 100 50 (0)
DISTANCE IN METERS
Figure 10. Onshore movement of sand at North Range,May-September 19753.
29
beach length and the quantity accreted offshore amounted to 640 cubic
feet per foot (60 cubic meters per meter) beach length at depths of
-10 feet to -20 feet (-3 to -6 meters) below MSL. This comparison indi-
cates that there was a net gain of sand in the offshore area at North
Range which is offset by slight net loss of sand in the vicinity of
South Range and Indian Canyon Range. The net losses of sand at the two
southern range lines and gain at North Range may reflect a net northward
littoral transport caused by the high waves approaching from the south
on 8-11 January 1974.
The volume of sand involved in the summer to winter profile trans-
ition was considerably less during the 1973-74 winter season than for
the previous year. This was especially noticeable at North Range where
the volume of sand eroded from the beach face in the 1973-74 winter
season was approximately one-third that removed during the winter of
1972-73. This difference in sand volume involved in the summer to winter
transition in beach profile configuration can be attributed to the rela-
tively mild winter of 1973-74. The difference between the volumes of
sand transported offshore during the two winter periods studied is also
apparent in Figures 6a, b, and c. The reference rod data show that sand
accretion occurred beyond a depth of -24 feet (-7.3 m) in the winter of
1972-73, but that accretion did not extend to depths ‘or =24 freee (57/25) m)
during the winter of 1973-74. The 1973-74 winter had relatively few
storms pass through the study area so that only occasional periods of
high waves affected the beach.
This study employed the technique of Inman and Rusnak (1956) for
determining sand level changes on the shelf in order to accurately deter-
mine changes in beach profile configuration. Since these two studies
were done in the same general area, it is useful to compare their
results. Inman and Rusnak noted that the range of the sand level change
exceccecl 2 Eee (Gl Gm) ate a al@orcin Or <8 ssece, O.29 eee (© Gm) ae a
depth of -30 feet, and 0.16 feet (5 cm) at a depth of -50 feet, indicat-
ing a general decrease in the magnitude of sand level change with in-
crease in water depth. The range of sand level change of the three
range lines studied at Torrey Pines Beach was 4.1 feet (125 cm) at a
depth of -16 feet, 1.5 feet (45.7 cm) at a depth of -24 feet, 0.60 feet
(18 cm) at a depth of -33 feet, 0.20 feet (6 cm) at a depth of -45 feet,
and no change at a depth of -65 feet. These ranges of sand level change
and their decrease in magnitude with increasing depth follow similar
trends to those measured by Inman and Rusnak (1956). However, the range
of the change was greater at Torrey Pines Beach for similar depths. This
may be related to the fact that the waves are somewhat higher at Torrey
Pines Beach than off Scripps Beach. It was noted in the earlier study
that the sand level was high in summer and low in winter at depths of
-18 to -30 feet. This trend was also observed at depths of -16 to -24
feet at Torrey Pines Beach. At Torrey Pines Beach high sand levels at
these depths occur in winter and spring (December to July) and low sand
levels occur in summer and fall (August to November). The seasonal
fluctuation documented in the two separate studies are similar with any
differences probably being accounted for by variation in the wave char-
acteristics at the time of each study.
30
5 Storm Associated Changes
Another aspect of this study was an attempt to document the abrupt
changes in beach profile configuration caused by storms and periods of
high waves. Documentation of these changes was made by profile measure-
ments before and after the occurrence of storms or high waves. However,
the problem in this plan was in predicting the occurrence of storms in
order to efficiently make ''before surveys.'' The only information avail-
able for storm prediction was U. S. Weather Service forecasts for the
Pacific coast which were thought to be reliable since most of the local
winter storms progress southward along the coast and can be identified
before arriving in the study area. However, it was soon realized that
it is difficult to predict the occurrence of these storms and to make
a representative “before” survey.
During the winter of 1972-73 the first winter storm occurred over
the weekend of 18-19 November 72 so that a survey previous to the event
was not made, but a survey was made immediately following the storm.
This storm caused extensive changes in the beach and essentially altered
the profile to a winter configuration. This change in profile configur-
ation was described as part of the seasonal changes between November 1972
to April 1973, and is shown in Figure 7. Several storms and periods of
high waves occurred during the 1972-73 winter season following the
November storm. Most significant of these were the following:
(a) 9-10 January 1973 9-foot-high breakers
17 January 1973 Beach profile survey
(b) 12-15 February 1973 Storm 7- to 10-foot-high breakers
16 February 1973 Beach profile survey
(c) 12-14 March 1973 Storm 7- to 10-foot-high breakers
16 March 1973 Beach profile survey
Comparisons of the beach profiles made from month to month following
these storms and high wave occurrences indicate that each subsequent
event had less effect in modifying the profile configuration than the
first storm in November 1972.
During the winter season of 1973-74 storm predictions were again
based upon U. S. Weather Service forecasts in an attempt to document the
changes due to storms with profile surveys. However, the 1973-74 winter
season was relatively mild with few storms and occasional occurrences of
high waves. The significant surveys and occurrences of high waves dur-
ing this season were as follows:
3|
(a) 4 December 1973 Beach profile survey, but
storm did not reach area
(b) 14-15 December 1973 7- to 9-foot-high breakers
ly Wecenoer IWO7S Beach profile survey
(&) 8 January 1974 6- to 8-foot-high breakers
10 January 1974 Beach profile survey
(d) 19-20 February 1974 7-foot-high breakers
21 February 1974 Beach profile survey
(e) 4-8 March 1974 Storm 6- to 9-foot-high breakers
11 March 1974 Beach profile survey
Since most of these events were occurrences of high waves, there was
no way to predict the waves and make a "before survey.'' The most signifi-
cant occurrence of high waves during the 1973-74 winter season was on
8 January 1974 which was coincident with a +7-foot-high tide which caused
considerable change in the configuration of the beach profile. These
changes are described in greater detail as part of the seasonal changes
between November 1973 and April 1974.
Comparisons of pressure sensor records from February 1973 with the
winter of 1973-74 show February 1973 to have been a period of high waves.
The mean significant height derived for February 1973 is 1.4 meters as
compared to 1.0 meter for the winter of 1973-74, and, in fact, the high-
est waves observed during the study occurred during February 1973. Thus,
the mean height of waves during February 1973 was approximately 30 percent
greater than that of other winter months. A check of annual precipitation
records for the San Diego region also suggests that 1972-73 was one of the
four wettest years in the last 20 years. Since most of the precipitation
in San Diego area comes from winter storms, this may be a reasonable indi-
cation of the severity of the winter season.
VI. CONCLUSIONS
The beach profile measurements at Torrey Pines Beach, California,
have provided some insight into the seasonal changes in beach profile
configuration on a straight beach with uniform offshoré slope that is
exposed to waves from all offshore quadrants. The conclusions of this
Study can be summarized as follows:
1. The three range lines established on Torrey Pinces Beach
responded in a Similar manner in all sand level changes so that the study
site section of beach was not anomalous along its length.
32
2. All significant changes in beach profile configuration can be
related to the incident waves, tides, and to local storms with strong
onshore winds.
3. Formation of a summer beach profile configuration is the result
of a progressive onshore migration of sand from depths of less than -33
feet (10 meters) which accretes on the beach face.
4. The summer beach profile is characterized by a pronounced berm
crest which is produced by the progressive accretion of sand starting
as a bar at depths of -3 feet (-1 meter).
5S. The summer beach profile configuration did not fully develop
until October in 1972 and 1973 when the berm crest was prograded the
farthest seaward and beach face slope was the steepest.
6. The change from summer to winter profile configuration occurred
abruptly with the coincidence of high waves and spring high tides in
November 1972.
7. At the time of high waves and tides the summer profile berm
crest was easily overtopped by wave runup and the upper foreshore
quickly eroded.
8. Most of the sand transported offshore during the winter seasonal
change was removed from the beach face during the few days when high waves
and tides were coincident.
9. Sand transported offshore during the winter seasonal change in
profile configuration was deposited in depths of -10 to -30 feet (-3 to -9
meters).
10. There were no recorded sand level changes at depths greater than
-45 feet (-15.7 meters) on the deeper reference rod stations at Indian
Canyon Range.
11. Comparisons between the visual wave observations and the pres-
sure sensor measurements at South Range show that there is agreement be-
tween the two sets of data for the angle of wave approach under conditions
when there is a single, predominant wave present. Visual observations are
much less valid under complex sea conditions.
33
LITERATURE CITED
BRUUN, P., "Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles,'' IM-44,
U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C.,
June 1954.
CHAMBERLAIN, T.K., "Mechanics of Mass Sediment Transport in Scripps
Submarine Canyon,'! Ph.D. Dissertation, University of California, Los
Angeles, Calif., unpublished, June 1960.
INMAN, D.L., "Measures for Describing the Size Distribution of Sediments,"
Jonanal Of Secimemaneny reacology, VOle 22, NOs Ss Sees IISZ, joo. a=
145.
INMAN, D.L., “Areal and Seasonal Variations in Beach and Nearshore Sedi-
Memes arc la Jolla, Cailliitomnia.,” MESS, ULS. Aomy, Comps Or lEmenmeers ,
Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., Mar. 1953.
INMAN, D.L., "Wave Climate at Torrey Pines Beach, California," Final
Report under Contract DACW72-72-C-0021, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers,
Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va. (in preparation,
1975)
INMAN, D.L., and RUSNAK, G.A., "Changes in Sand on the Beach and Shelf
at La Jolla, CGalifornia,'’ TM-82, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Beach
Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., July 1956.
SAVILLE, T., Jr., and CALDWELL, J.M., “Accuracy of Hydrographic Surveying
In and Near the Surf Zone,'’ TM-32, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Beach
Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., Mar. 1953.
SHEPARD, F.P., "Beach Cycles in Southern California,’ TM-20, U.S. Army,
Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C., July 1950.
SHEPARD, F.P., and INMAN, D.L., ''Sand Movement on the Shallow Inter-
canyon Shelf at La Jolla,’ California," IM-26, U.S. Army, Corps of
Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, Washington, D.C.,:Nov. 1951.
STATE OF CALIFORNIA, "Interim Report on Study of Beach Nourishment Along
the Southern California Coastline,"' Department of Water Resources,
Southern District, Sacramento, Calif., July 1969.
34
APPENDIX A
DESCRIPTION OF RANGE LINES AND BENCH MARKS
TORREY PINES BEACH, CALIFORNIA
INTRODUCTION
Three range lines normal to the shoreline were established on
Torrey Pines Beach for use in making repeated measurements of sand level
change in the onshore-offshore direction. Each range line was marked with
two bench marks (BM) that define the direction of the range line and
elevation of two fixed points relative to a datum. The three range lines
are referred to as South Range, Indian Canyon Range, and North Range to
designate their geographic position relative to Indian Canyon.
RANGE LINE LOCATION SURVEY
The closest Government bench mark to the section of Torrey Pines
Beach under study is the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey (USCGS) Bench Mark
"Ball" located in the NW 1/4 of Section 12, Township 15 South Range 4
West from the San Bernardino meridian and base line. The bench mark is
a brass disc identified as a USCGS monument at the top of the sea cliff
about 1/2 mile south of South Range which designates a point 326.3 feet
above mean sea level. This brass disc served as the point of origin for
the range line location survey (Figure A-1). Since the USCGS bench mark
is located at the top of the sea cliff, the range line location survey
was necessarily performed in two segments that were tied together using
a specialized type of surveying technique. The first segment was a
level line survey from USCGS "Ball" to an established point at the top
of the sea cliff on South Range. This was done using a transit, tape,
and rod for measuring elevation and horizontal distance to +0.01 foot.
Figure A-2 shows the plan of the first survey segment with the location
of transit station, rod station, and measured lines as listed in Table
A-1.
This survey segment resulted in the location of four points lying
on South Range as shown in Figure A-2. These points are:
a, “EH Eniseileel im Ne CONEPELO DASE Oi laS WSs WenNAy
southwest range marker.
b. A 1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipe at the top of the
Sea Ellaice,
ce. Two 1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipes approximately
50 feet apart at the foot of the sed cliff.
35
NORTH RANGE
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
SOUTH RANGE ee NS a CF \ ¥ N
eon ERE ‘@
y) OTH Se t 0 500 1000
METERS
OS 4 NY
: ot,
sus 0 ] 2000
ae Keser Hr |
* FEET
CONTOURS IN FEET
ef '
¥
@
~v
Keblorg 2
Park
Py; :
Figure A-1. Location map for beach profile range lines on Torrey Pines
Beach, California.
36
SOUTH RANGE ,
ROD STATION
400
TRANSIT STATION
10)
ESTABLISHED POINT
a
FEET
CONTOUR INTERVAL 5 FEET
200
100
METERS
=
ge.
outh Ran
S
bench mark to
CGS
Plan of survey from US
5
eitieqpre@: = 2
Shit
asuey uo
ospeo FFITO 8
punoizs ut odtg
asuey
MS NSf} Uo
pepTestyo ssory
unzed ‘ISW
SOI0N
L£8° 662
GL GUS
CS LES
Gis Sais,
SS LCS
EO" VES
OY CCS
84° LCS
OS VES
(4)
"ABTA
ut 99uUad
sega el
(34)
SUTpeoy
Pod
9} TSOLO4
(44)
SUT peoYy
pod
aTsyorg
0c 26
OG Sy
OL 002
OS * L6
SO BAI
OT’ £6
OD" Ol
06° 062
SY? CGE
Ol SEE
06° S8d
Sf V9¢
Oc ObZ
OG Oil
Si O91
-98uey yinos uo do} FFITO 2e YarewW YyOusq 02 ,,T1Teq,, SNDSM wosrgZ
“N “SeN
Oo ~ [3u
STASI |
AHAANNMNMST TN
AQAINS LIOF S9ON
Iled Wa
Tled Wa
(4) | vorzeqs
“IYSUT} PISUBT
“I-V 9T9eL
38
The second segment of the range line location survey was a level
line survey beginning at the most seaward pipe on South Range north along
the beach to North Range. Figure A-3 shows the plan of the second seg-
ment of the range line survey with the transit stations, rod stations,
and measured lines as listed in Table A-2.
This survey segment resulted in the location of four additional
points as shown in Figure A-3. These points are:
a. Two 1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipes approximately
45 feet apart at the mouth of Indian Canyon on Indian
Canyon Range; and
b. Two 1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipes approximately
30 feet apart on North Range.
These additional established points define the location of Indian Canyon
Range and North Range.
A specialized surveying technique was used to determine the distance
between points located at the top and bottom of the sea cliff on South
Range. This involved setting up the survey as a trigonometric problem
in which the vertical angle and the distance between points at the top
and bottom of the cliff are measured in order to define a triangle as
shown in Figure A-4. A trigonometric solution of the right triangle pro-
vides the difference in elevation between the point at the top of the
cliff and the point at the bottom of the cliff. In order to determine
the difference in elevation between the two points to the nearest 0.01
foot, an exact measurement of the line-of-sight distance between the
points at the top and bottom of the cliff had to be made. This was accom-
plished by using a Hewlett-Packard 3800A Distance Meter. Exact measure-
ment of line-of-sight distance to the nearest 0.001 foot for distance up
to 3000 feet is possible with this instrument. Two independent measure-
ments of the distance between points at the cliff top and bottom resulted
in measurements of 505.182 and 505.185 feet respectively. Thus, a slope
distance of 505.18 feet was used for the calculation of the difference
in elevation, The vertical angle of slope for the measurements was deter-
mined to be 35°56' by a transit. Trigonometric solution of the right
triangle and consideration of the instrument offsets results in a dif-
ference in elevation of 291.10 feet between the pipe bench mark at the
cliff top and the SI0 I bench mark on the beach (see Figure A-4). This
determination of the elevation of SIO I bench mark provided the necessary
link between the two segments of the range line location survey and
established the exact elevation of the SIO II and SIO III bench marks
on the beach.
RANGE LINE BENCH MARK DESCRIPTION
Each range line is located by two permanent bench marks, These
bench marks are 1/2-inch-diameter stainless steel pipes 36 inches long
39
NORTH RANGE
TN MN
Sw
ROD STATION
®
TRANSIT STATION
©
ESTABLISHED POINT
0 400
FEET
CONTOUR INTERVAL 5 FEET
METERS
SOUTH RANGE
Figure A-3. Plan of survey from South Range to North Range,
Torrey Pines Beach, California.
40
Oasuey YION
out~T AdAAINS FO
JOSFJO UIBSOM
aut, AdsAaInNS FO
JOSFJO uISISONH
asuPy
uokue) UeTpUy
osuey
uoXkue) UeTpUuy
asuey yANos
16°01
Sieg!
We &
Iv'8
O6°L
(4) (34)
“AQT SUT PeOY
uT 99uU9 pou
-I9jJjtq | 91Tsetoy4
(44)
SsUTpeoYy
Pod
a1Tsyoeg
TeI0L
Wd
00'S? ILIEAL (OQ);
Oc cl
Oc vs
00°00
00°OOT
09°
SO
180 7 0
200 eX)
220 0)
240 6.10
260 4.20
280 2.00
300 1,60
320 0.80
340 0.10
360 -0.40
380 -0.80
400 -1.20
420 -1.60
440 -1.80
460 -2.10
480 -2.40
500 -2.70
520 -3.10
540 -3.30
560 -3.90
690 -6.60
885 -14.90
1055 -18.30
1245 -22.20
1425 -25.60
1515 -27.30
1610 -28.90
1755 -31.30
1845 -32.90
2035 -36.40
2170 -38 .60
2320 -41.30
2435 -43.20
28 August 1972 (Cont'd)
SOUTH RANGE INDIAN CANYON RANGE NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet
Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods:
1011 -16.50 816 -16.00 942 -16.10
1375 -24.10 1219 -24.00 IBS -24.00
1866 -33.00 1667 -33.00 1862 -33.00
2343 -45.00
3635 -65.00
5|
25 September 1972
SOUTH RANGE
Daksige
Feet
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
DIS .
Feet
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Elev.
Feet
1
52
Sf WS) WS) Aw NSS SS) SS) SS SS) Co) C2) Ce) HO) S)
NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev
Feet Feet
0 10.90
20 9.90
40 9.10
60 9.00
80 9.10
100 8.20
110 8.40
120 8.20
130 7270
140 7.60
150 7.40
160 7 2O
170 720
180 7-20
190 7.20
200 To 3O
210 7.40
220 7.40
230 720
240 6.10
250 5.00
260 4.10
270 3), 510)
280 210
290 2 20
300 Lo7O
310 1.30
320 OO
330 0.70
340 0.40
350 0.20
360 -0.20
370 -0.50
380 -0.70
390 -1.00
400 -1.20
410 -1.30
420 -1.50
430 -1.60
440 -1.80
450 -2.00
460 -2.10
480 -2.50
490 -2.60
25 September 1972
SOUTH RANGE
Dist.
Feet
2846
ZOU
3027
Sil abT
Ref. Rods:
1011
1375
1866
Elev.
Feet
=5)0), 20
= 5 (60)
=55) 0.630)
=54.. 910
-16.60
-24.10
-33.00
(Cont 'd)
Dist.
Feet
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Elev.
Feet
Ref. Rods:
816
1219
1667
2343
3635
53
-16.
-24.
-33.
-45.
-65.
Dist.
Feet
500
510
520
530
540
550
NORTH RANGE
Elev.
-2.
-2.
=5)
=) 5
= 5).
=5o
=F
~ Es
-4.
-4.
-4.
=5)-
=5)<
=
=5..
Feet
23 October 1972
SOUTH RANGE
DalSre . Elev.
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 8.50
40 7.90
60 7.60
80 6.80
100 5.40
120 4.20
140 3.40
160 2.80
180 2. NO
200 1.60
220 I g LO
240 0.60
260 0.2
280 -0.40
300 -0.80
320 -1.20
340 -1.50
360 -1.80
380 =2,,1\0
400 -2.20
420 -2.40
440 -2.50
459 -2.29
460 25 IO
480 -2.90
500 -3.00
520 -3.10
540 -3.20
602 =. 20
754 -9.20
910 -14.20
1087 -18.20
1250 -21.40
1416 -22.80
1576 -27.40
1728 -30.30
1911 -33.80
2080 -36.90
2205 -39.10
2338 -41.30
2412 -42.70
Di Sit.c
Feet
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
54
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
NORTH RANGE
DL Sie Elev.
Feet Feet
0 10.09
20 9.90
40 9.10
60 9.10
80 8.30
100 8.20
120 8.10
140 7.40
160 Fol
180 7 o LO
2900 7.20
220 7520
240 5.90
260 3.90
280 2.60
300 1.60
320 1.10
340 0.40
360 -0.10
380 -0.60
400 -1.10
420 -1.30
440 =1157/0
460 -2.10
480 -2.40
500 -2.60
520 -2.90
540 -3.10
560 -3.40
580 -3.60
600 -3.90
667 -6.70
830 = 570
987 =l7 10
1130 -20.10
1282 -22.90
1402 -25.20
1517 -27.10
1625 -29.10
1764 -31.40
1840 -32.80
1997 -35.40
23 October 1972 (Cont'd)
SOUTH RANGE INDIAN CANYON RANGE NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev. DUS Elev.
Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet
2489 -44.10 2037 -40.10 2191 -38.90
2585 -45.60 2180 -42.10 2302 -40.90
2665 -47.10 2343 -45.10 2420 -43.10
alll -47.90 2518 -48.10 2564 -45.40
Pigel -48.90 2662 -50.10 2734 -48.40
2783 -52.10 2887 -51.10
2949 -54.60 3059 -54.20
3118 -57.20 3323 -58.80
Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods:
1011 -16.80 816 -16.40 942 -16.30
ESAS -24.00 1219 -24.10 1331 -24.00
1866 -33.00 1667 -33.00 1862 =H5).5 OKO)
2343 -45.00
3635 -65.00
55
21 November 1972
SOUTH RANGE INDIAN CANYON RANGE NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet
0 8.80 0 10.10 0 10.90
20 707 20 9.60 20 10.10
40 6.50 40 8.80 40 9.10
60 5.50 60 8.30 60 8.90
80 4.60 80 8.20 80 8.40
100 3.80 100 8.10 100 8.20
120 So l@ 120 8, 1@ 120 8.20
140 25 50) 140 7.80 140 7 NO
160 1.90 160 7 NO 160 6.90
180 1.40 180 6.30 180 5.90
200 0.90 200 5.60 200 4.90
220 0.60 220 4.90 220 4.10
240 0.20 240 4.20 240 5,20
260 -0.20 260 5,60 260 2.60
280 -0.60 280 Selo) 280 1.9
300 -0.90 300 2.60 300 1,20
320 -1.20 320 1.90 320 0.70
340 -1.60 340 1.40 340 0.10
360 -2.10 360 0.90 360 -0.40
380 -2.70 380 0.30 380 -0.90
400 -3.10 400 -0.20 400 -1.60
420 -3.50 420 -0.60 420 -2.10
440 -3.80 440 -1.10 440 -2.80
460 -4.30 460 -1.70 460 -3.60
480 -4.70 480 -2.30 480 -4.30
500 -4.90 500 -2.80 500 -5.20
1088 -17.20 520 -3.30 520 -5.60
LSU2 -22.20 540 =$.5 1/0 540 -5.60
1499 -26.10 560 -4.10 560 -5.60
1733 -30.60 580 -4.10 580 -5.60
1970 -35.10 600 -4.20 - 600 -5.60
2192 -38.80 835 -15.80 1190 -21.10
2378 -42.10 1031 -19.80 1306 -23.20
2617 -46.20 1245 -24.30 1494 -26.60
2785 -49.20 1426 -28.10 1637 -29.30
2927 -51.60 1632 -32.60 1802 -52.20
SUAS -56.10 1837 -36.10 1967 -35.10
2043 -40.10 2093 -37.20
2209 -43.10 2252; -40.10
2430 -46.60 2488 -44.10
2591 -49.10 2585 -45.90
2829 -53.10 2769 -49.10
3043 -56.10 2916 -51.70
3273 -59.60 3151 “55.70
56
21 November 1972 (Cont'd)
SOUTH RANGE INDIAN CANYON RANGE NORTH RANGE
Ref: Rods: Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods:
1011 -15.60 816 -15.10 942 -14.50
1375 -23.90 1219 -23.80 TSI -23.90
1866 -33.20 1667 -33.00 1862 -33.40
2343 -45.10
3635 -65.00
57
18 December 1972
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 8.00
40 6.80
60 5.60
80 4.50
100 5,70
120 3.00
140 2 SO)
160 1.90
180 1LoSO
200 0.90
220 0.60
240 0.20
260 -0.10
280 -0.30
300 -0.40
320 -0.50
340 -0.80
360 -1.10
380 -1.50
400 -2.00
420 -2.70
440 -3.30
460 -3.80
480 -4.30
500 =5 , 10)
793 alli, LO
997 -14.70
WATS -18.70
1367 -235.20
1563 a2] 20)
L752 -30.80
1939 -34.30
2130 =87'.1@
2305 -40.60
2487 -43.90
2663 -47.10
2856 -50.30
3013 -53.20
SILSS -55.70
3284 -57.90
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Dal Sie 5
Feet
58
NORTH RANGE
Dist. Edleva
Feet Feet
0 10.90
20 OP IEO)
40 951
60 8.90
80 8.40
100 8.20
120 8.30
140 8.10
160 7.40
180 6.60
200 550)
220 A, 30
240 5 5510)
260 2,60)
280 1.7/0
300 1,10
32 0.60
340 -0.10
360 -0.60
380 -1.10
400 =I 550
420 -1.60
440 -1.80
460 -2.10
480 -2.20
500 -2.60
520 -2.90
540 -3.60
560 -4.10
580 -4.60
600 -5.20
620 -5.80
640 -6.60
660 -7.10
680 -7.60
880 -11.40
1030 -17.10
1179 -20.80
NSIS -24.10
1456 -26.30
1695 -30.20
1850 =85 9 IO)
18 December 1972
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
Ref. Rods:
1011 -14.80
1375 -23.80
1866 -33.00
(Cont'd)
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
2469 -47.
2648 -50.
2876 -53.
3022 -55.
S237 -58.
Ref. Rods:
816 -15.
1219 -23.
1667 -33.
2343 -45.
3635 -65.
39
NORTH RANGE
Dalsiter Elev
Feet Feet
2043 -36.
2194 -39.
2374 -42.
2534 -44,
BIND -48.
2896 -51.
3080 -54.
BASIL -57.
3413 -60.
Ref. Rods:
942 -14.
NBS -23.
1862 -33.
17 January 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 6.10
40 4.80
60 3.90
80 So lO
100 2.40
120 L580
140 0)
160 0.70
180 0.20
200 -0.30
220 -0.70
240 -1.10
260 -1.20
280 -1.60
300 -1.80
320 -2.10
340 -2.40
360 -2.60
380 -2.80
400 -3.10
420 -3.20
440 -3.60
460 -3.90
480 -4.60
500 -5.60
122A -19.80
1453 -24.60
1624 -28.10
1745 -30.30
1892 -33.40
2083 -36.90
2205 -39.10
2358 -41.80
2499 -44.10
2690 -47.60
2849 -50.20
3027 -53.30
SOS -57.10
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
60
Elev.
Feet
1
!
~)
i
let eee eG
NDNWN NY
fODN
Si) o
== 59)
DOOFrFHEPNNWHHSUANANWOMO WOOO
Dy eas Si sitet itl ]
NO RR RF RF OO Co
0
See item ll al
ONaunFHWND
Dist.
Feet
NORTH RANGE
Elev.
Feet
-8.
17 January 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
Ref. Rods:
1011 -13.40
IS75 -22.80
1866 -32.90
(Cont'd)
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
2159 -42.10
2281 -44.10
2533 -48.10
2817 -52.60
Ref. Rods:
816 -13.00
1219 -23.20
1667 -33.00
2343 -45.00
3635 -65.00
6|
NORTH RANG
Darsites Elev
Feet Feet
2581 -45
2791 -49
2900 -51
3101 -54
Ref. Rods:
942 -14
WABI -23
1862 -33
16 February 1973
SOUTH RANGE
-3.
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Elev.
Feet
1
= 28) ¢
20: EAD
BHWNWW
CI "00 UW
62
DOFRRENNNWAWHEUUDAD OO OO
1 1 1
Ss) tf 1 i} i} i} ! I ! i] ! i} i} i} 1 !
BODNERWNHORPRPRPREPE HEF OOO
.10
AO)
.20
-10
oO
NORTH RANGE
Dist Elev
Feet Feet
0 10.90
20 10.10
40 9.10
60 8.90
80 8.80
100 8.60
120 8.60
140 5.40
160 4.60
180 So 7/0
200 3.10
220 2.30
240 1.80
260 1,20
280 0.70
300 0.30
320 -0.20
340 -0.60
360 -1.10
380 -1.20
400 -1.40
420 -1.60
440 -1.60
460 -1.80
480 -2.10
500 -2.60
520 -3.10
540 -3.60
560 -4.30
580 -4.90
600 -5.40
620 -6.30
640 -7.10
1265 -21.60
1413 -24.60
1586 -28.10
L757 -31.30
1967 -35.10
2144 -38.10
2323 -41.20
2483 -44.10
2667 -47.20
16 February 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
Ref. Rods:
1011 -13.40
1375 -22.60
1866 -33.00
(Cont'd)
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
DLS.
Feet
2482
2661
2822
2999
3164
Ref.
816
ZA
1667
2343
3635
Rods
63
Elev.
Feet
-47
=5/5
='3.
=O
=H)
-45.
=05).
-30
=50)s
=55)5
10
10
56)0)
S59)
10
Fee
WS
t
20
.60
80
40
00
80
00
NORTH RANGE
Dist. Ele
Feet
2840 -50.
3025 -53
Sy ilvlt -56.
3368 -59.
Ref. Rods:
942 -14.
LSS -22.
1862 -33.
16 March 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 6.10
40 4.70
60 515 0)
80 2,00
100 130
120 Ie)
140 0.60
160 0.20
180 -0.30
200 -0.70
220 -1.10
240 -1.40
260 -1.70
280 -1.90
300 -2.10
320 -2.20
340 -2.60
360 -3.10
380 -3.60
1132 -16.80
N2ZS7 -19.20
1411 -23.30
1571 -26.80
1725 -30.10
2004 -35.40
2076 -36.80
2230 -39.40
2406 -42.40
255 -45.40
2741 -48.20
2927) -51.60
3100 -54.70
SS -57.90
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
64
all
GSGoorr,nwWwwsp FUDAN OWO?O
he a0 Meet
I~ Oo Oo ©
NORTH RANGE
| 0 fl
NN MN
ODN
'
FS 0 0 a0 alee Se are ete SUS ae ne Sie Se a
ANP EWWNNNNYKPHPHERrFODOKrPHENWWHEMNO OHO Mw
16 March 1973 (Cont'd)
SOUTH RANGE
Dat Ste Elev.
Feet Feet
Ref. Rods:
1011 -13.80
1375 -22.60
1866 -32.90
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Dist.
Feet
2739
2876
3020
HUGH
3318
Ref.
816
WZ)
1667
2343
3625
Rods:
65
Elev.
=H,
=58).0
=D9c
58 ¢
-60.
-14.
=22'.
SZ.
-45.
=O5)6
Feet
NORTH RANGE
DILSie Elev
Feet Feet
2823 -50.
2958 “52.
3118 -55.
3231 -57.
3409 -60.
Ref. Rods:
942 -13.
1331 —22 .
1862 -33.
11 April 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist Elev
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 6.30
40 5.60
60 4.30
80 3.30
100 2.30
120 1.60
140 0.90
160 0.30
180 -0.10
200 -0.60
220 -0.60
240 -0.90
260 -1.20
280 -1.40
300 -1.90
320 -2.60
340 -2.90
360 -3.60
380 -4.30
400 -4.90
420 -5.10
440 -5.30
1008 -14.20
1169 -17.80
1334 -21.60
1499 -25.20
1656 -28.70
1827 -32.10
1989 -35.20
Zale -38.30
2321 -41.10
2493 -44.10
2630 -46.40
2785 -49.10
2930 -51.70
3063 -54.10
3197 -56.30
3339 -58.90
Daisite
Feet
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Elev.
Feet
1
= 6
66
DOrFrFNWFH HUMANA O WOO
acest Velho lige Neen lea dle Pema Seti IRE
NN RP RPE Er DOHFOOO oO
NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev
Feet Feet
0 10.90
20 10.10
40 9.10
60 9.10
80 8.80
100 8.60
120 7.30
140 6.10
160 5,10
180 4.10
200 3.40
220 210
240 2.10
260 LO
280 0.40
300 -0.20
320 -0.80
340 -1.30
360 -1.80
380 -2.10
400 -2.60
420 -2.90
440 -3.20
460 -3.60
480 -3.90
500 -4.60
520 -4.60
540 =5), 0)
560 -6.10
1022 -16.10
1202 -20.10
1375 -23.90
1539 -27.10
1699 -30.30
1873 -33.30
2030 -36.30
POND -39.30
2368 -42.30
2521 -44.70
2696 -47.70
2877 -50.70
3038 -53.70
Ap O75 (Conte vas)
SOUTH RANGE INDIAN CANYON RANGE NORTH RANGE
Dist. Elev. Dist. Elev. Dass Elev.
Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet Feet
2207 -42.80 3182 -56.30
2353 -45.30 3401 -60.10
2516 -47.90
val -50.90
2866 -53.10
3022 -55.60
3240 -59.10
3365 -60.90
Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods: Ref. Rods:
1011 -13.80 816 -14.40 942 -14.20
LOWS -22.80 1219 -22.80 1331 -22.80
1866 -32.90 1667 -32.90 1862 -33.00
2343 -45.00
3635 -65.00
67
11 May 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
Feet Feet
0 8.80
20 5.70
40 4.80
60 4.20
80 3.40
100 2.90
120 1.30
140 0.60
160 -0.20
180 -0.70
200 -1.10
220 -1.40
240 -1.40
260 -1.60
280 -1.70
300 -1.90
320 -2.10
340 -2.10
360 -2.20
380 -2.60
400 -2.80
420 -3.10
440 -3.40
460 -3.80
853 -11.80
1045 -14.80
1248 -19.60
1469 -24.60
1662 -28.70
1860 -32.80
2064 -36.60
2252 -39.80
2452 -43.30
2841 -50.10
3018 -53.20
3206 -56.60
3352 -59.10
68
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Elev.
Feet
1
CGOOCOrFrHENWFHHUUMADAANOWOO
-10
WA)
.10
90
-40
-10
5 LO
6 M0
5 AY)
-60
10
Dist.
Feet
NORTH RANGE
Elev.
Feet
te OS See A I ee Sl SL) Ree
PUWAWNNNNHFRFKFODOFRr,NWHEUDNWDADWMDWWOOO
11 May 1973 (Cont'd)
SOUTH RANGE
DiSe. Elev.
Feet Feet
Ref. Rods:
LOILIL -13.60
IS7/5 -22.80
1866 -32.80
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
Dist.
Feet
2702
2871
3070
35208
Ref. Rods:
816
1219
1667
2343
3635
69
Elev
Feet
-50.
=55)
=99)c
=) 6
DSUSTE g
Feet
2380
DOE
2667
2769
2892
3050
3166
3334
Ref.
942
SSH
1862
NORTH RANGE
Elev.
Feet
-42.
-44,
-47.
-48.
=5)1%
=55.
= SS)
=58).
Rods:
-14.
=22\.
=O
6 June 1973
SOUTH RANGE
Dist. Elev.
0 8.80
20 7 20
40 6.60
60 5.60
80 4.40
100 3.40
120 2.40
140 1.60
160 0.90
180 0.10
200 -0.60
220 -1.20
240 -1.40
260 -0.80
280 -0.60
300 -0.80
320 -1.10
340 -1.30
360 -1.80
380 -2.20
400 -2.60
420 -3.10
440 -3.60
460 -3.90
510 -6.90
687 -10.90
875 -13.90
1032 -15.90
WATT -18.S0
1345 -22.60
1512 -25.80
1692 -29.20
1879 -33.30
2070 -36.80
2226 -39.30
2421 -42.90
2515 -44.60
2781 -49.10
2930 -51.80
3310 -58.30
INDIAN CANYON RANGE
DIU Ste 5
70
Elev.
Dist.
NORTH RANGE
Elev.
10.
10.
i 0
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xe)
0 6
N NO
O O
i. 0
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#N
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290904 Soo1380q “2390S 190904 sooisoq Saoiseq s90139q “29S 93eq pue uny sys
q 7 Sho Ppottod hs Sh ny on Potted
“ATPUT
SUOTJPALOSGQ TeENST/
SLIOSUNS JAINSSOTgd WOTY SJPUSWIINS BOW
144
APPENDIX F
PLOTTED BEACH PROFILES
Each beach profile measured during this study was plotted using the
computer program described in Appendix G. The plotted beach profiles are
reproduced for the first 1400 feet (427 meters) of the profile in this
Appendix. Those profiles indicated by an asterisk are plotted to the
survey limit because an offshore survey was not carried out.
145
TORREY PINES BEACH- NORTH RANGE
6 JUN 72
40
MSL
5 meters-====——~ -- - - 3 JUL 72
Ney eee S| JUL 72
Be eo 28 AUG 72
Sep eee ae CSP UV (2
UNE Bi een 23 0CT 72
ES As steep 21 NOV 72
146
TORREY PINES BEACH- NORTH RANGE
17 JAN 73
MSL
5 MGQi@/S===ss=—=s= ==
ae sie 16 MAR 73
‘ime ITAPR 73
eral 1] MAY 73
‘(is 6 JUN 73
i 9 JUL 73
BF San CAUCE
147
TORREY PINES BEACH- NORTH RANGE
ASSP Se
4
0
22 JAN 74
148
TORREY PINES BEACH- NORTH RANGE
11 MAR 74 #
MSL SS = 49
21 MAR 74
5 meters- - - =>—=— - - - 4 APR 74
30 0 100
METERS Pe Ul
149
TORREY PINES BEACH-INDIAN CANYON
6 JUN 72
4
0)
MSL
5 meters -- -==>——_—_—~=- - -- 3 JUL 72
a 31 JUL 72
oan 28 AUG 72
ea a rea 25 SEPT 72
meee (ae) OCW UZ
oS ocdpere Se 21 NOV 72
150
TORREY PINES BEACH-INDIAN CANYON
17 JAN 73
40
Dae ernie IG REBIZS
ee ee 16 MAR73
wee aoe 11APR73
SA ee 11 MAY 73
Sra 6 JUN 73
agi 5 JUL73
ee 27 AUG 73
30 O
METERS
15]
TORREY PINES BEACH-INDIAN CANYON
2s} SEP re
—|0)
5 meters--->>—~=~ -- = 25 OCT 73
152
TORREY PINES BEACH-INDIAN CANYON
MSL Sch ats ee
+0
11MAR 74*
21 MAR 74
5 meters----+><- --- 4APR74
Bean ant 30 APR 74
30 O 100
METERS BEET
153
TORREY PINES BEACH -SOUTH RANGE
MSL
10
6 JUN 72
Smeterso a eee
s JUIE 72
3] JUL 72
28 AUG 72
7 93 SEPT 72
erocr 72
30 0 100
METERS FEET
154
‘TORREY PINES BEACH - SOUTH RANGE
MSL
eee 5,
17 JAN 73
5 meters- --=->—=— - - - Cee
16 FEB 73
16 MAR 73
11 APR 73
11 MAY 73
6 JUN 73
| WL 72
30 0) 100
METERS FEET
155
TORREY PINES BEACH-SOUTH RANGE
MSL
{
As Sei Ue
5 meters - - -=>—<<- - --
ZOOCY Vs
28 NOV 73
mane - ee
4 DEC 73*
Nai DECrs
O JAN 74*
22 JAN 74
156
TORREY PINES BEACH-SOUTH RANGE
MSL ag
1] MAR 74*
21 MAR 74
SumerenS= s—— = ——
30 0 100
METERS FEET
APPENDIX G
DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPUTER PROGRAM FOR
PLOTTING BEACH PROFILES
This computer program is a simple plotting routine developed to
specifically handle beach profile data. The program is written in ALGOL
and can handle from 1 to 10 profiles per plot. Using an 11-inch
Calcomp pen and ink plotter, the finished plot is 8 inches by 35 inches
in dimensions. Scales for the plot are labeled in both metric and English
units and have a 10 times vertical exaggeration.
In use the program is stored in a file on the disk storage of the
UCSD Burroughs 6700 computer during the time the plots are to be made.
Disk storage saves time by having to compile the program only once.
Data cards consisting of one x and y coordinate per profile data point
and control cards for each survey are then run to make any number or
combination of plots. Included below is a description of the program
control cards and a complete listing of the program.
DESCRIPTION OF PROGRAM CONTROL CARDS
There must be one set of the cards described below for each profile
to be plotted.
Card #1 (free format, i.e., each number followed by , )
(1) N, number of profile data cards
(2) S, symbol code number to indicate what symbol will
be used to mark each set of data
*(3) F, flag for whether or not to complete plot with
this profile (see code below)
Card #2 (format 2A6)
(1) key to be printed with symbol in right margin (maximun
of 12 characters) Example: 12SEPT72NR
DATE RANGE
Card #3 S => § > N Grommec 2? 10.3)
must have
decimal point
(1) X, for profile in feet (lst 10 columns)
(2) Y, for profile in feet (columns 11-20)
Note: These cards must be arranged in ascending order of X.
158
* Code for Program Completion Instruction
0
il
Plot this X array and complete plot
This is the first of several X arrays to be plotted. Do not
complete plot yet.
This is another X array to be plotted on the existing plot.
Do not complete plot yet.
This is the final X array to be plotted. Complete plot.
159
(ALGOL) "PROFILE"
BURROUGHS/UCSD 86700
BEGIN
FILE CRD(KIND=9,MAXRECSIZE=14) ;
FILE PRINTER(KIND=6,MAXRECSIZE=22) ;
$INCLUDE '"PLOTTER/ALGOL"
$ BIND = FROM PLOTTER/= :
PROCEDURE LINE(XA,YA,N,L,W,H, XM, XP, YM, YP) ;
VALUE N,L,W,H,XM,XP,YM,YP; REAL N,L,W,H,XM,XP,YM, YP;
ARRAY XA,YA[*!; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE SYMBOL (X,Y,H,S,R,N);
VALUE X,Y,H,R,N; REAL X,Y,H,R,N; ALPHA ARRAY S[*]; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE PLOT(X,Y,P); VALUE X,Y,P; REAL X,Y; ALPHA P; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE NUMBER(X,Y,H,Z,R,D);
VALUE X,Y,H,Z,R,D; REAL X,Y,H,Z,R,D; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE AXIS(S,Y,TITLE,N,I,R,M,V,T);
VALUE X,Y,N,1I,R,M,V,T; REAL X,Y,N,1,R,M,V,T;
ALPHA ARRAY TITLE[*]; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE ENDPLT; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE LIMITS(M,N); VALUE M,N; REAL M,N; EXTERNAL;
PROCEDURE PENPOS(X,Y); REAL X,Y; EXTERNAL;
INTEGER ERROR;
REAL ARRAY X[1:200],Y[1:200];
ALPHA ARRAY XCHAR[0:2],YCHAR[0:2],TITL[0:2],KEY[0:1];
INTEGER F,I,N,S;
LABEL RD,EPF,EXIT;
PROCEDURE PLOTDATA(X,Y,N,XMIN, XMAX, YMIN, YMAX,XS,YS,XL, YL, XCHAR,
YCHAR, TITL, KEY,S.F.);
X=ARRAY OF X COORDINATES
Y=ARRAY OF Y COORDINATES
N=NUMBER OF DATA POINTS TO BE PLOTTED
XMIN=MINIMUM VALUE FOR X-AXIS SCALE
XMAX=MAXIMUM VALUE FOR X-AXIS SCALE
YMIN=MINIMUM VALUE FOR Y-AXIS SCALE
YMAX=MAXIMUM VALUE FOR Y-AXIS SCALE
XS=SPACING OF X,-AXIS SCALE MARKS.
YS=SPACING OF Y-AXIS SCALE MARKS
XL=LENGTH OF X AXIS IN INCHES (USUALLY 10 OR 14 INCHES)
YL=LENGTH OF Y AXIS IN INCHES(YL MUST BE 9 INCHES OR LESS)
XCHAR=ARRAY CONTAINING X-AXIS TITLE (MAXIMUM OF 18 CHARACTERS)
160
YCHAR=ARRAY CONTAINING Y-AXIS TITLE (MAXIMUM OF 18 CHARACTERS)
TITL=ARRAY CONTAINING PLOT TITLE (MAXIMUM OF 18 CHARACTERS)
KEY=ARRAY CONTAINING KEY (TO BE PRINTED WITH SYMBOL IN MARGIN)
S=INTEGER REPRESENTING SYMBOL TO BE USED FOR PLOTTING DATA POINTS
F=FLAG FOR NUMBER OF ARRAYS TO BE PLOTTED
O=PLOT THIS X ARRAY AND COMPLETE PLOT
1=THIS IS THE FIRST OF SEVERAL X ARRAYS TO BE PLOTTED. DO
NOT COMPLETE PLOT YET
2=THIS IS ANOTHER X ARRAY TO BE PLOTTED ON THE EXISTING
PLOT. DO NOT COMPLETE THE PLOT YET
3=THIS IS THE FINAL X ARRAY TO BE PLOTTED. COMPLETE PLOT
NOTES: (1) POINTS THAT EXTEND BEYOND THE GIVEN LIMITS FOR THE AXES
ARE PLOTTED ON THE AXES
(2) THERE IS ROOM FOR ONLY 5 DIGITS PER NUMBER FOR THE Y-AXIS
NUMBERING. LARGER NUMBERS SHOULD BE SCALED ACCORDINGLY.
(3) FOR LINEAR Y-AXES YS MUST BE GEQ .0001
(4) A MAXIMUM OF 10 PROFILES PER PLOT IS ALLOWED
(5) ONLY ONE COMPLETE PLOT PER RUN IS ALLOWED
VALUE YMIN,YMAX,XMIN, XMAX,XS,YS,XL,YL;
REAL ARRAY X[1],Y[1],XCHAR[0],YCHAR[0],TITL[0], KEY[0];
REAL XMIN,XMAX, YMIN, YMAX,XS,YS,XL, YL;
INTEGER N,S,F;
BEGIN
REAL XMN,XMX,YMN,YMX,XSS,YSS, XVV, YVV, XMN1, YMN1;
ALPHA ARRAY XCHAR1 [0:2] ,YCHAR1 [0:2];
OWN REAL. XV,YV,XM, YM;
OWN REAL ARRAY KEYCHAR[0:10,0:1];
OWN INTEGER NA;
OWN INTEGER ARRAY SYM[0:10];
INTEGER ARRAY SP[0:1];
REAL AJ,TIC,ABA, XX;
REA MERXG 2 YiGa yy
INTEGER ND,JJ;
INTEGER 1,J,K;
PABE TED UGS DlGYAPTS EP
ERROR: =0;
WRITE GEREN MERE SUN iS wus — UTS NEUES rN oik is
TERE THEN TGORLOPP Ts:
WRITE (PRINTER, <""XMIN="",E12.5,"" XMAX="",E12.5,"" YMIN="',
B22 5. YMAX="" E2055 XMS= BID 5M se OyS=! SEW 2) 5> > XMIN | XMAX,
YMIN,YMAX,XS,YS) ;
IF XL>40 OR YL>9 THEN BEGIN
WRITE (PRINTER,<''PLOT LENGTH OR HEIGHT TOO LARGE- PROGRAM ABORTED"'>) ;
ERROR: =1;
GORTOFERSMENDS
IF XS=0 OR YS=0 THEN BEGIN
WRITE (PRINTER,<''X OR Y AXIS TIC MARK SPACING SET EQUAL TO ZERO-
PROGRAM ABORTED!''>) ;
ERROR: =1 5
GORLOSER END:
16]
PLOT (46, 0,""XMAX") ;
LIMITS (16,1);
DLO (hyo Sp ORUGIN) 2
PLO (O50, Ui") 8
PLOT (XL, ) ,""DPWN") ;
PLOT (XL, YL, ''DOWN'') ;
PLOT (0, YL,"DOWN'') ;
PLOT (0,0, ''DOWN'') ;
%Y AXIS LABEL
SYMBOL (=.88,.5*YL-1.5,-2 ,YCHAR|[*] 590), 18)’;
IF YS>0 THEN BEGIN
%LINEAR Y-AXIS
YV:=(YMAX-YMIN)/YL;
FOR I:=0 STEP 1 UNTIL 4 DO IF YS GEQ 10**(-I) THEN GO TO DIGY;
DIGY: ND:=I;
TIC:=.04;
TF YMAX 999. THEN XX:=-.55-.1*ND ELSE XX:=-.35-.1*ND;
YMN:=YMN1:=YMIN; YMX:=YMAX; YSS:=YS;
FOR K:+0 STEP 1 UNTIL 1 DO BEGIN
YVV"'= (YMX-YMN)/YL;
JJ:=ENTIER(YVV/YSS+.99) ;
J:=0;
FOR YC:=YMN1 STEP YSS UNTIL 1.001*YMX DO BEGIN
YY:=(YC-YMN)/YVV;
PLONE (OAC. UIP) 2
IF J MOD JJ=0 THEN BEGIN
PLONE (ZSIPUC , YAT , MDYOWINE?)) 2
NUMBER (XX, YY-.06, .12,YC,0,-1);
END SEESE SRE Oji Gil Cayven DOWNED) Re:
J:=J+1;
END;
TIC:=-.04;
JOKES 6 lle
YMN:=3.281*YMIN; YMX:=3.281*YMAX; YSS:=YS*2.;
YMN1:=(YMN DIV 10)*10.;
PLOT (XL+1,.5,""ORIGIN") ;
END;
PLOW (Ns oD5 MORIMEIINL?)) 8
END;
FILL YCHAR1(*) WITH "ELEVATION (FT) ies
SIMI Odi 5. Sho . 55 oF, MCsINRI ()) , 90), 14) 8
IF XS>0 THEN BEGIN
*PLOT X AXIS LABEL AND TITLE
SYMBOL(.5*XL-1.5,-.8, .2, XCHAR|[*],0.18);
SMO, CMb= 2.55), 5 oS, IML |] 50, 18) 2
%LINEAR X-AXIS
XV:=(XMIN)/XL;
FOR 23-0 sSRER SUNT SO SEE XS=GEOMIOA-4(Cl) HENS GORnOmD iG.
DIG: ND:=I;
XMN :=XMN1 : =XMIN; XMX : =XMAX; XSS:=XS;
TIC:=.04;
162
Wi e355 p
FOR K:=0 STEP 1 UNTIL 1 DO BEGIN
J:=0;
XVV: =(XMX-XMN)/XL;
JJ:=ENTIER (XVV/XSS+.99) ;
FOR XC:=XMN1 STEP XSS UNTIL XMX DO BEGIN
XX: =(XC-XMN) /XVV;
PION (OOK5 05 MUM ye
IF J MOD JJ=0 THEN BEGIN
PLOT (XX, 2*TIC,"'DOWN'"') ;
NUMBER (XX, YY,-.12,-XC,0,-ND);
END ELSE PLOT (XX,TIC,''DOWN"') ;
J:=J+1;
END;
TIC:=-.04;
NWivesi=ie 165
XMN:=XMIN*3.281; XMX:=XMAX*3.281; XSS:=4*XS;
XMN1°=(XMN DIV 100)*100.;
PLOW (AL, VO bar 5 Sh MORUTE INE) 2
END;
PLONE (I, 6S TORUS ION) 2
END;
FILL XCHARI[{*] WITH "DISTANCE (FT) "5
SYMBOL(.5*XL-1.5,YL+.4, .2,XCHARI [*],0,13);
XM''=XMIN; YM:=YMIN;
%PLOT DATA POINTS
PATS}S ms
FOR I:=1 STEP 1 UNTIL N DO BEGIN
X[1]:=-X[1I];
IF YS=0 THEN BEGIN
IF Y[I]>0 THEN Y[{I]:=MIN(YMAX,MAX(YMIN,LOG(Y[I]))) ELSE Y[1]:=YMIN;
END ELSE
Y [I] :=MIN(YMAX,MAX(YMIN,Y[I]));
IF XS=0 THEN BEGIN
IF X[I]>0 THEN X[I]:=MIN(XMAX,MAX(XMIN,LOG(X[1I]))) ELSE X[1I]:=XMIN;
END ELSE
X[1]:=MIN(XMAX,MAX(XMIN,X[I])) ;
END;
LINE(X,Y,N,10,S, .12,XM,XV,YM,YV) ;
REPLACE POINTER (KEYCHAR[NA,0O]) BY POINTER(KEY) FOR 2 WORDS;
SYM[NA]:=S;
NA:=NA+1;
IF F=0 OR F=3 THEN BEGIN
VAC SV On= oils
FOR I:=0 STEP 1 UNTIL NA-1 DO BEGIN
SP[0] :=SYM[I];
SYMBOL (XL+2.,YY+.06, .12,SP,0,-3);
SNAMONL QWRA6 So VOC, o HASKIN I 5 ]] 552) S
YY:=YY-.3;
END;
163
EP;
ENDPLT;
END;
END PLOTDATA;
FILL XCHAR|[*]| WITH "DISTANCE (METERS)";
FILL YCHAR[*] WITH "ELEVATION (METERS)"';
ICI IL, WII, fT} Me CMON IP LINES" 2
RD: READI(ERD,/5N;S,F);
EOE
ABORTED" >) ;
IF S>33 THEN BEGIN
WRITE(PRINTER,<""INCORRECT SYMBOL - PROGRAM ABORTED"'>) ;
GO TO EXIT; END;
IF F<0 OR F>3 THEN BEGIN
WRITE (PRINTER, <"'F OUT OF RANGE- PROGRAM ABORTED!'>) ;
GOR ORE XG END
IF N>200 THEN BEGIN
WRITE (PRINTER, <''N IS TOO LARGE (>200) - PROGRAM ABORTED">) ;
GO TO EXIT; END;
READ (CRD,<2A6>,KEY[*])
FOR I;=1 STEP 1 UNTIL N DO BEGIN
READ (CRD, <2F10.3>,X[1],Y[1]) [EOF];
X[1]:=.3048*X[I];
VOL] SS SOAS W7 |i] 3
END;
PLOTDATA(X,Y,N,-1100,0,-20,5,50,5,36.089,8.202, XCHAR, YCHAR, TITL,
KEY,S,F);
WRITE (PRINTER, <''DATA PLOTTED FOR '', 2A6>,KEY[*]);
IF F>0 AND F<3 THEN GO TO RD P
COMO) EXa hs
WRITE (PRINTER, <"'NUMBER OF PROFILE CARDS DOES NOT EQUAL N - PROGRAM
EVILS Je)N)D).
164
APPENDIX H
Sediment analysis data for samples collected from Torrey Pines Beach,
California.
Samples Collected 6-9 July 1973:
Md Sorting Skewness
Sample _Md¢ _ Microns od ad
South Range
Beach Face , 252 218 0.5 0.0
NG se. Boll 154 oS 0.0
2a Et. Haul ly) 0.45 -0.11
Siete. Sill ay, 0.4 -0.25
Indian Canyon Range
Beach Face a5) ROY ORS 0.0
opt ZAG 165 0.5 0.0
BAL Ae 58) 134 0.45 -Q.11
55) Et. Sra 109 OoS5 +0.14
AS ate 3.4 95 0.3 0.0
(SS) 281d 3.4 95 0.3 0.0
North Range
Beach Face 2.5 1 7/ a 0.35 +0.14
ING) aeee Bolt 189 0.65 -0.08
24V£E. 3.0 125 0.45 =0.11
oetatys S015 102 0.5 0.0
165
Appendix H_ (Cont'd)
Samples Collected 25-26 February 1974
Sample _Mdq | coe
South Range
Beach Face Ded 218
NO we 2.4 189
QAM SEE. Sod 109
SS ies 3.3 102
Indian Canyon Range
Beach Face Died 203
NG st. 2.4 189
Mal SEE « 52 109
OS ilo Sol 95
AIS aetater S55 88
@5 ic. 568 88
North Range
Beach Face Goll BES
NG see. Deve. 218
2A TE . Sod 109
SS wes 3.4 95
Note:
Sorting
-45
- 60
-40
. 50
-40
-40
085)
-30
-30
5 OS
.50
.60
-45
-30
+0.
Skewness
a
All samples were analyzed by sieving with 8-inch diameter sieves
Separated at 1/2 intervals. ‘Statistical parameters used to
characterize the grain size distribution curves are those of
Inman (1952). Samples are from reference rod stations and
sample depths are relative to MSL.
166
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