UNIVERSITY FARM
TJ/Z35'
G-Z
SAW FILING
AND
Management of Saws
A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON
Filing, Gumming, Swaging, Hammering and Brazing Band Saws. Speed, Power and Work to Operate Circular Saws, etc. "With Full Directions for Filing, Setting, Polishing, Joining, Straightening and Polish- ing Hand, Butchers', Band and Circular Saws. Files to Use, Useful Hints for Repairing and Caring for Saws. Coiling and Brazing Band Saws, Home- Made Sets and Clamps, Emergency Repairs, etc.
Complete tables of proper shape, pitch and set of saw teeth as well as sizes and number of teeth of various saws are included.
By ROBERT GRIMSHAW, M.E.
Third Edition. Revised and Enlarged. Fully Illustrated with over 100 Engravings.
New York
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.
132 Nasgau Street 1912
Copyright 1882 By ROBERT GRIMSHAW, M.E.
Copyright 1901 and 1912
By NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY
Macgowan & Slipper
Printer*
30 Beekman Street New York City
I
This book is designed as a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. While, as its title implies, it treats principally of saw-filing, it also goes into the questions of gumming, spring-setting, and swaging. The author has tried to bring it up to present successful usage, and will be glad to receive from practical sawyers and others for future editions, questions, suggestions, and infor- mation bearing on the subject.
Preface to the Third Edition
In order to bring this work strictly up-to-date and include the latest ideas and developments of modern methods, this volume has been revised, re-edited and considerable new material added.
During many years' experience in using saws of nearly every kind, size and make, and frequently in out-of-the-way localities, many useful and handy ideas have been developed by the Editor, and in order that these original "wrinkles" may prove of use or benefit to others, they have been embodied in the new material added to this volume.
THE AUTHOR. November, 1912.
SAW FILING
AND
Management of Saws
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LIBRARY
BRANCH OF THE COLLEGE OF AGRICQLTURfi
INTRODUCTION.
THERE is no more sense in using a dull saw than in shaving with a dull razor.
It is a great deal easier to keep a saw sharp by frequent light file-touches, than to let it get so dull as to need a long-continued filing down, after it gets so dulled as to refuse to work.
The saving in power, by using a sharp saw, is very great. It has never yet been measured in power-saws, and is hardly measurable in hand-saws ; but it is without doubt consider- able.
By using sharp saws, thinner blades may be used than where the teeth are dull ; because the duller the saw the more power required to drive it through the wood, and the more strain on each tooth separately, and on the blade as a whole.
For the same reason, longer teeth may be used where they are sharp, than where they are dull.
The advantage of using sharp teeth is great- est in those saws in which the strain of cutting tends to deform the blade — as in all " push- cut " straight saws and in circulars.
SAW-FILING.
Classification of Saws. — There are four general classes of saws — reciprocating, circular, band, and cylinder ; * and four classes of teeth — the V or cross-cut, the ^^*\ or ripping tooth, the M or W, and the hook ; with their variations and combinations.
Each of these requires special treatment, as distinguished from the others, and particular adaptation to conditions of saw, speed, thick- ness, and character of material and work, etc.
Saws for use in fibrous materials, such as wood, act in two ways — for ripping, or cutting with the grain, and for cross-cutting or divid- ing at right angles (or thereabouts) to the fiber.
In ripping fibrous material, each fiber is severed by each tooth only once at a stroke, but many times in successive strokes ; while in cross-cutting, each fiber is cut off in two places at a stroke, and never again cut off in that line.
*For fuller classification of saw-blades, see "Grim- shaw on Saws," page 12.
9
10 SAW-FILING.
Rip-Saws. — The rip-saw, having for its duty severing each fiber once at a time in its length, is generally given acute teeth, well raked, and as it can act more like a mortising chisel than can the cross-cut, it is given more gullet, be- cause it will take greater feed per tooth.
The hand rip-saw is longer and stouter than the hand cross-cut, being from 28" to 30" long as against 26" for the cross-cut, and having only 3 to 5 teeth to the inch through the greater part of its length, as against 5 to 12.*
The sash-saw for ripping, f (mill-saw) is about the most abused tool that man uses, get- ting the worst shaped teeth, and being allowed to get the dullest, because the operator does not feel that it runs hard ; nor does he see if it is wrongly toothed, as the mulay, the circular, or the band would clearly show by running crooked. The teeth have seldom enough " rake " or front pitch, nor enough gullet ; they are, too, frequently given excessive and irregular set.
The mulay rip-saw J gets better care than the sash. The teeth are about the same.
* For various forms and styles of hand-saws and handles therefor, see " Grim shaw on Saws," pages 18, 30, 33 to 35.
f See same work, pages 21 to 23 and 33.
j See same work, page 20.
SAW-FILING. 11
The circular rip-saw responds better than any other to skill in toothing and mounting, and to ease in running. Its teeth should be widely spaced and very hooking, with plenty of gullet to take out the chips (not dust) which it should make.
The band-saw * is never used for cross-cut- ting, except when cutting scroll-work, and may generally be treated as a rip-saw. It requires special regularity in shape and set of teeth to prevent it from breaking and from running into the work.
The Cross-Cut Saw f has for its r'uty severing each fiber crosswise ; and in order to prevent pinching or binding, it divides each fiber in two places at once, leaving a path or "kerf" for the blade to run in and the ma- terial to fall out through.
If you undertook to divide a board in two, crosswise, by successive knife-cuts, you would soon find the necessity for having a groove at least as wide as the thickness of the blade ; and this could be accomplished only by severing each fiber twice ; making two parallel cuts
* " Grimshaw on Saws," page 83.
f For various styles of cross-cuts saws and of handles therefor, see same work, pages 37 to 48 of 2d edi- tion.
12 SAW-FILING.
between which the material was removed to
leave the "kerf."
The action of the cross-cut saw is analogous
— it makes two parallel sawings, and removes
the short lengths between them.
Ordinarily, every other tooth is beveled to
right and to left, so as to help make the right
hand or the left hand score. The front view
of a rightly filed straight cross-cut, with teeth
beveled to right and left alternately, should be as in Fig. 1, and the filing should be so accurate that a needle could be slid along the groove left between or formed by the beveled tooth edges. But instead of making a kerf having a bottom of ridged section, the re- sult is the crumbling out of the ma- terial as fast as the scoring progresses, and the kerf is left square bottomed. It is the outside edge of each tooth
that does the cutting.
The Elements of a Saw Tooth * are its
face, point, back, and gullet.
Teeth vary in length, thickness, spacing,
rake, amount and kind of set, fleam, outline
and direction, and in depth and outline of throat
or "gullet."
* See " Griiuskaw on Saws," pages 12 to 20.
SA \\~-FlLIlsrG.
13
They have for offices cutting, cleaning, and planing.
They are either solid (in one piece with the plate of the saw), or in- serted.
The cutting edge of a saw may have all teeth of a kind, or several kinds in regular order.
Teeth may be simple or compound.*
The gullet may be angu- lar, notched, or rounded.
Whatever be the style of saw or of tooth, it is im- perative that all teeth of a kind shall be of uniform outline and dimensions — except in those cases (as "increment toothed saws ") where the teeth purposely vary in size in regular progression, f
* Various styles of compound and special teeth are shown and described in the author's work on Saws, pages 12 to 20, 28, 38 to 48, 57 to 61, 64, 71, 73 to 81, 87, 109 to 119, 128, 138, 157, 170 to 177, and 204.
f Grirashaw on Saws, pages 20 to 23, 28, 34, and 59.
14
SAW-FILING.
Tooth Length. — The softer the material
the greater the length o f tooth among materials of the same general class. Long teeth give plenty of clearance for sawdust ; hence are good for soft, wet, or fibrous woods.
The length of cleaner teeth may be r e g u - lated by a gauge such as that shown in Fig. 58
When a cross- cut needs more cleaners, they may be made by filing down cut- ting teeth, as shown in Fig. 3, taking care to bring them below the cutting line.
SAW-FILING.
15
The thinner and longer the teeth, the greater the importance of having even, and not exces- sive, set ; because a thick or a short tooth will, more readily than a thin or along one, with- stand a tendency to spring into the cut.
The difficulty of springing into the cut is met with only in sawing fibrous (although per- haps we may add granular) materials. It is greater with teeth having excessive rake and " fleam," (or side angle) than with those of straight pitch, filed square across.
Tooth Space. — The following table gives lengths, sizes, and spaces of teeth of hand-saws :
|
NAME. |
LENGTH. |
GAUGE. |
POINTS TO INCH. |
|
(Hand |
26" |
19 |
5 to 12 |
|
11 *>P gS 1 Panel. . .. P.-^ Compass.* . £g [Keyhole.*.. |
28" to 30" 14" to 24" 10" to 20" 7" to 9" |
18 22 to 20 16 12 |
j Heel, 3 to 5 1 Point, 6 to 8 8 to 12 |
|
? r 05 -d ! •2S \ Tenon « : « 1 Miter «£ |
6" to 18" 20" to 30" |
22 to 20 20 to 19 |
11 to 15 10 to 11 |
|
•ucq cc I |
Hand rip-saws may have coarser teeth at the heel than at the point, so that fine teeth com- mence and coarse ones finish the cut.
* Narrow blades for curve-sawing.
16
For soft wood, band-saws sliould hare a tooth-space one-half the blade Avidth, and depth one-filth. For hard wood, space one-third, and depth one-fifth.
Fig. 4.
Angle and Rake. — The generic angle of saw-teeth is 60°. Teeth of any other angle can- not be filed well without a special file, as can those shown in Figs. 4, 5, in which, although
Fig. 5.
the rake is different, the angle is the same.
The rake of a rip-saw is in front ; that of a cross-cut at the side.
SAW-FILING.
17
Rip-saws take more inclination than cross- cuts.
Teeth with great front rake tend to spring in, especially in hard wood.*
More rake can be put on a circular than on a rectilinear saw, partly because it runs faster, hence can stand it.
The harder the wood the less rake there should be.
For soft wood, teeth as at A, Fig. 6, are
good ; for hard and knotty stuif, B (60° equally pitched front and back). For varied work C (40° equally divided).
The teeth shown in Fig. 7 have excessive front rake, and, while keen cutting, tend to dig in. Fig. 8 shows various degrees of rake, and the arrows show the direction of the strain put upon them by the work. In Fig. 9, the points of the teeth have considerable rake ; but
* See " Saws," pages 14 to 16.
18
SAW-FILING.
the main portions are so formed as to resist the strain of work.
Side Angle or Fleam. — Referring to Figs.
Fig. 7.— Great Front Rake.
10 to 44 : — for metal saws, the file is held 90° in botli vertical and horizontal angles ; for hard
Fig. 8.— Various Degrees of Rake.
woods, 90° to 80° horizontally ; for soft woods, 70° to 60° and less horizontally ; 35° to 30* vertically.
SAW-FILING.
19
Shingle saws should be filed square across.
Fleam or side angle is better for soft woods and those free from knots than for hemlock or spruce.
Fig. 10 shows, greatly magnified, the teeth of a hand rip-saw which has both bent-set, and fleam or side angle. The arrows show the
A A A A
Fig. 9.— Strong Teeth, with very Raking Points.
direction in which the strain of work comes upon the teeth set and fleamed to the right side, and those bent and fieamed to the left. As this is at right angles to the cutting edge of the tooth, it will be seen that the greater the fleam the greater the tendency to spring in to the work ; and as the tendency to spring in is also increased by bent set, the two should not be given together.
Choice of Teeth. — With the choice of teeth
20 SAW- FILING.
for special purposes, this work will have little to do ; this matter being treated in special de- tail in the author's work on Saws.*
Circular-saw teeth are generally more distant and more inclined, and have more set, than rec- tilinear.
Pruning-saws may have half -moon or briar teeth.
The more valuable the material and the
Fig. 10. — Spring Set and Side Angle.
greater the cost of power, the thinner the teeth and the less the set should be ; although in general the harder the material, the thicker the teeth, to stand the greater strain.
The softer the material, the more depth,
" fleam," " hook," and " rake," may be given.
The more fibrous and porous the material,
* See pages 12, 18, 65, 234, of 3d edition of that work.
SAW-FILING.
21
*:— 0
the greater may be the spacing, and the greater the necessity of deep throat or gullet.
Gumming may be done with punches, rotat- ing steel cutters, or e emery-wheels.
In' Fig. 11, the dotted line B shows where the point first wears ; CCC, how it should be filed back ; but too often, on ac- count of the long sur- face, and the sharp
Corner at /, the fil- Fig. ll. -Tooth Wear and Gumming.
ing is done on the top. Filing back in the line CCC, the diameter is diminished only to Fy while from the top you "*S. work it down to D.
*\^X In Fig. 12, the same
XX tooth is shown, gummed
l\w by a machine, and leaving
J \ but little underfil-
^/_J ing- Fig. i&— Machine Gumming. The higher the speed,
the greater necessity for rounding the gul- let.
Band-saws particularly require rounded gul- lets.
2 SAW-FILING.
In Fig. 13, tooth A is shown to need gullet- ing ; tooth B is all right.
Fig. 15 shows a very bad job of gumming.
Reversible Blade Gummer. — A gummer for circulars, with the blades reversible and de- tachable, as shown in Fig. f 14,* has the advantage \ that both cutting edges 5 of the blades may be ^ sharpened at once, and | when one edge is dulled o the other may be turned ; s besides which the gum- Jj mer cuts practically the Jj same sized circle all the dj time.
^ Mixter's Rotary Gummer. — The same firm makes Mixter's gum- ming machine, to use these cutters. (See Fig. 16.)
Kind of Set.— Set is of two kinds — " spring " or *R. L. Orr & Co., Pittsburg,
SAW-FILIITG.
24 SAW-FILING.
"bent" set, and "swaged" or "spread" set.
Bent set teeth cut upon only one side ; spread set teeth cut upon both sides, unless they are either bent or " sheared" as well as swaged.
Each method of setting has its advantages and disadvantages, according to the conditions.
Of course, bent set teeth have more of this
Fig. 15.— Very Bad Gumming.
tendency than swaged ones, and the great ci the bend, the more tendency to spring in.
A swaged tooth, being supported on both sides, is less subject to side strains than one which is bent for set.
Bending for Set may be done by blows or by leverage — the latter including bending by cams. Either may be accomplished by a machine or by simple hand tools.
SAW-FILING.
26 SAW-FILING.
To set by blows, without a machine, the blade must be gripped close to the ends of the teeth, and the blow struck quickly with a light hammer — the blows being as uniform in force as possible, in order to bend all teeth alike.
Avoid either too short or too long set ; the former causing too sharp bending of the tooth near the point, and the latter (the less evil of the two) requiring more force to effect.
Where bent set is effected by hammer blows, it is by many thought best to slightly overset, and then lightly correct the excess by gentle taps, in the case of large saws, noting the exact and proper amount of projection by means of a simple sheet-steel set-gauge.
For large teeth, there may be used special set levers, having two set screws — one to accommodate the instrument to various thick- nesses of saw plate, and the other to regu- late, as a stop, the amount of bending.
Small teeth may readily be bent for set by a simple notch in the end of a file.
Cam sets produce a bent set that is neces- sarily the same for all the teeth of each saw.
Figs. 19 and 20 show cam sets for circular and band saws, devised by C. E, Grandy, </ South Barton, Vt.
SAW-FILING.
Spread Set may be ef- fected by direct hammer blows on the teeth, or by "crotch punches" or dies applied to the tooth ends and struck by a hammer.
Large mill-saw teeth may be upset by blows of a flat- faced hammer, using the firmly-held butt of an axe as an anvil or counter ; but this method is crude, and at best unsatisfactory. The operation may be shortened and facilitated, and the work made more perfect and uniform, by having a die of suitable outline and faces, into which the metal of the- tooth-point is spread by smart hammer blows on the instrument.
Usually, these upsets have two notches, one merely to spread the tooth- point, and the other to limit
28
SAW-FILING.
its side dimensions and give the cutting edge, when desired, a slightly concave form.
There being some difficulty in properly hardening the angles of single-piece crotch punches, so as to preserve the original straight form,* they are now best made ^. with a saw-cut in the angle, the & metal being kept to size and form i by means of a strong steel band, g which drives the walls of the crotch i hard together, and gives a straight •$ line, which may be renewed when £ worn by taking off the band, dress- o ing out the cut, and driving the J5 walls together again. .bb In swaging or upsetting teeth, care should be taken not to make the corners too sharp. There should be enough metal back of them to hold them out firm with- out breaking off ; and this in no wise affects the sharpness of the front of the tooth, which is the chisel-edge that does the work,
* The hardening fluid does not always reach into the angle, where the greatest hardness is required.
SAW-FILING.
and which may be straight, convex or concave, at the option of the sawyer.
The ideal swaged tooth, looking only at the question of strength of corners, would be
Fig. 19.— Cam Set for Circular?.
somewhat like Fig. 21 ; but as it would be impossible to swage cold -tempered steel by hand into such an outline, the form shown in Fig. 22, which is a possible one, should be
30
SAW-FILING.
aimed at. The form shown in Fig. 23 has extremely weak corners, and if one of them crumbles off, the other gets all the work, and is liable to go too. If both go, then the tooth
'. '20.— -Cam Set for Hands.
behind has an extra load thrown upon it, and so on. The finer the feed, the greater the proportion of work thrown on the tooth cor- ners, as compared with the front face. AVitli very coarse feed, the action of the tooth is
SAW-FILING.
31
more like tha^ z>f a mortising chisel, getting a full cut all across its face; so that if the corners were gone, the chisel would tear through anyhow, leaving to the next tooth behind the duty of trimming square the ragged edges of the cut.
If it were practicable to swage and file teeth into such a shape as is indicated in Fig. 24, in which there is a cutting edge at each side as well as in front, the greatest possi- ble smoothness of ut would be at-
ined.
Such a tooth
ould have a strong
rner, well sup- Figs. 21, 22, 23.
ported from behind, and from this there might be a taper, as in Fig. 21, or else the plate behind might be of even thickness, with a slight sweep as a strengthening curve.
The Gridley tooth has both spring and spread set and "shear." (See Fig. 25.)
Various devices for spreading and bending teeth are shown in " Saws," pages 127, 180, 258, &c.
32 SAW-FILING.
In swaging, the "upset" tool should be so held as to deliver the blow in a line with the face of the tooth. If inclined, so that the blow comes in the direction of the back of the tooth, or further out, there is danger of a crack starting in the gullet, especially in frosty weather.
. 2G.— Leslie Swage.
Fig. 2G shows the Leslie "solid swage," made by R. L. Orr, of Pittsburg, and which is claimed to be able to equalize the Ings of such a tooth as Fig. 23, by drawing the metal over to the desired side. This swage has what is called a " three-fold convex surface," and is provided with guides for regulating its exjict position on the saAV, and hence the shape of the point which it gives the tooth. The "three-fold convex" surface is formed by the
SAW-FILING.
33
intersection of two right cylinders, its property being to spread the metal of the tooth in both directions from the center, tit right angles from the body of the saw, leaving the tooth curved on the face, hack, and edge. A light file touch is then used to bring the edge straight if desired.
In drawing over a tooth to change the lead of a saw, with this swage, the screws provided for the purpose are set out so as to cant the swage on the saw, with the result of making the hlow come on one side of the tooth, and crowd the metal towards the other.
Amount of Set. — Circular saws re- ]uire more set than rectilinear, because they run faster and are apt to wab- ble.
Ice-saws should have excessive set, to prevent clogging.
There should be very little set to veneer saws, by reason of the great cost of the material.
The more gummy the material, the greater the need of " set " or side clearance.
Small, narrow blades of jig-saws should be
34
SAW-FILING.
eased off with the file, a gauge or so in thick- ness, if not already made so.
Band and jig saws require more set for short curves than for those of long radius.
A tapered jig-saw blade is shown in Fig. 27. Such a blade needs neither spread nor spring set to its teeth, but will keep cool in hard
Fig. 28.— Forms of Circular Saw Teeth.
wood, and cut short curves without bind
ing- Leading in or out of the log is very often
caused l>y giving more fleam or more set on
one side than on the oilier. Gullet, or Throat. — The greater the feed,
the greater the gullet needed.
Spaulding's rule for throat room of circulars
is to double the number of cubic inches of
SAW-FILING. 35
wood removed at one revolution, and divide by the number of teeth, to get the required number of square inches of gullet per tooth.
Insufficient gullet, throat or chamber, causes the saw to choke and heat, the rim to become too large, and the plate to run "snaky."
The gullet should be rounding, as in Figs. 29 and 30, and not angular, as in Figs. 31 and 32, in which case cracks may start ; and in any instance sharp corners are the hardest on files. V
" Top Jointing " (also called | | "rounding" when applied to circular saws) is bringing the points of all the teeth down to the same line, so that no one tooth shall project lengthwise be- yond the others, and thereby receive undue strain. It is generally performed with a flat or "mill" file ; although it may be done by a plane rubber of emery or corundum, or a whet-stone. It is best effected with the saw mounted in a special but simple jointing frame, or its equivalent.* It is a very necessary operation.
Side Jointing not only gives each tooth its exact share of work, but prevents scratching
* " Saws," page 248.
36 SAW-FILING.
of the lumber caused by too great side pro- jection of a tooth, and what is about as un- sightly, "ridging," caused by a tooth not cutting out to full kerf width, and hence leaving a ridge on the lumber ; although ridging is often largely effaced by the action of the fol- lowing teeth.
" Side jointing" is a corrective of irregular setting, and prevents » undue side-projection of any tooth | or teeth beyond the rest. It is ^ more effective with swaged teeth | than with those bent for set. * The "side file" (Fig. 33) may , °*m be adjusted by the set screws t<? £ any set desired.
Choice of a Saw. — A hand- savr must be springy and elastic, with almost a "Toledo blade" temper. There is no economy in buying a soft saw ; it costs more ^ in a year for files and filing than
a hard one dovs, dulls sooner and drives harder, and does not last as long.
Frequency of Filing. — Saw teeth should bo filed, set, and jointed frequently, and gummed at regular and not widely distant
SAW-FILING.
37
times. The keener and more regular the teeth, the cleaner and easier they j
will work.
Hand vs. Machine Fil- ing and Setting. — Hand filing generally has the ad- vantage of convenience in time and place.
Machine filing has the advantage of greater regu- larity, ease, speed, and cheapness of work.
Hand filing may be ren- dered more regular by the use of file-guides.*
The same remarks may be made concerning the rel- ative merits and demerits of hand and machine set- ting, as in reference to hand and machine filing, f
Fig. 34 is an adjustable filing guide for circular or straight saws. It will file
* See "Grimshaw on Saws," second edition, page 123.
fFor various machine saw- sets, see same work, pages 120, 127, 181.
38
SAW-FILING.
a tooth square top and bottom, or bevel point and square back, or square point and bevel back ; and will file either from right to left, or the reverse.
Eig. 35 shows a filing guide, having a grad-
Fig. 36.— Amesbury's Band-Saw Filing Machine.
uated circle numbered from its center each way, giving bevels for each side of the saAv.
Other machines for this purpose are shown in the larger work on Saws.
SAW- FILING.
39
Fig. 36 shows an automatic band-saw filing machine,* which employs a spiral file in two sections — one to cut the faces and to feed the blade on, and the other to file the backs.
Fig. 81.— Angular Gullets.
F\£. 32.— Angular Gullet*.
Filing Clamps. — The screeching of saw- filing is proverbial, and yet unnecessary. A saw properly clamped and rightly filet I need
* Made by G. W. Aireslmry & Co., Philadelphia.
40
SAW-FILING.
not " screech " under the operation. The blade must be firmly held close to the bottoms of teeth, and the file held firmly against the teeth.
{. Side File.
Knbber, leather, or even soil, (hick paste- board be( \veeii the blade and the jaws of the
SAW-FILING.
41
clamp will absorb most of the vibrations, and render the operation more nearly noiseless.
If a saw shake and jar while being filed, it will strip the file ; hence it ought to be kept close down to the edges of the clamps.
tf. 34. -File Guide.
Fig. 37 shoAvs a convenient form of saw- filing clamp.
Files. — The files used are triangular, flat or mill, round or gnlleting, and special.
There are many sizes of saw-files and mnny grades of coarseness of cut.*
* These are more fully illustrated than the limits of this hand-book permit, in the larger work on Saws.
SAW-FILIKG,
Fig. 35.— Filing Guide.
SAW-FILING. 43
Many styles of special teeth are best sharp- ened with files of special section, made on purpose for them ; and some cannot be sharp- ened with any other than special files.
The face of the file should be double as wide as the length of the tooth-face. (See Figs. 4, 5). In Fig. 38 the file is somewhat too narrow.
A saw file cannot well be too hard, nor too sharply cut. To preserve its cutting powers, it should not be so held and used as to strip the teeth against the edges of the saw tooth. It should not be thrown down carelessly, nor knocked about among other files or tools. The corners are particularly liable to be stripped in the angles between the teeth.
'• Increment cut " files, or those in which the distance between the teeth increases from
3m t to heel, are claimed to work cleaner and easier than those in which the spacing is egular.
Hand-cut files are claimed to work better than any machine-cut, except the "increment " toothed.
In some cases the file is so shaped and held as to sharpen the back of one tooth and the face of the one behind it. This frequently oc- curs with such small teeth as have no curved
44
SAW-FILING.
outlines, and is especially handy where the angle of the gullet is 60°, as is generally the case where the throat is sharp-cornered.
g. 37.— Saw-Filing Chimp.
Saw files should he "float" or single cut. The ordinary triangular saw file is double
SAW-FILING.
tapered — a contour not to be recommended on
the score of cither clean work or economy.
Since, however, a taper saw file will continue to he demanded, it is well that it he offered in the best possible modification.
One important improvement is the forma- tion of a knoh or button at the top, affording firmer hold for the thumb and forefinger, and not making them sore where tiling is in- frequent. Double taper tiles are also
Fi-. 5
'double ended" or "'reversible/' and these too ure sometimes "knob-ended."
Band-saw tiles must have rounded angles so < to insure round throats to the teeth. (See ?ig. 3'.).)
System. — Saw filing, to be effected regu-
irly, neatly and rapidly, and with minimum
ear of files, must he gone about in a
systematic manner, in order that no tooth may
he omitted nor gone over twice.
46
SAW-FILING.
For instance : the face of every other tooth may be gone over in regu- lar succession ; then either the backs of those teeth, or the faces of the intermediates, and so on.
The following cuts and descriptions will illustrate systematic filing of various types of hand saws.
Fig. 40 is for metal frame saws.
Fig. 41 is a peg tooth, with plenty of fleam. Mill saws and M teeth are sharpened about the same as this. File sides 1, 5, 9 (the left of al- termite teeth), at horizontal angle, h; then opposite sides of same teeth, 2, 6, 10, with reverse angle li .
Then take the other teeth, and file from the other side of the blade, 12, 8, 4 ; then 11, 7, 3.
In Fig. 42, the file cuts a front and a back at once. " Top " the teeth, then file 1, 5, 9, on alternate teeth, clear back to the center of each tooth left by topping. Then take sides 2 and 3, (> and 7, 10 and 11 of the notches, and file them forward to meet the line a. This finishes faces 3, 7, 11. Then change the saw end for end, and finish backs 4, 8, 12.
SAW -FILING.
47
Fig. 43 shows a pruning saw for green wood, ground thin at the back, and having no
set. It lias great amount of bevel, and cuts "sweetly."
48 SAW- FILING.
Fig. 44 is done with a pit saw-file smaller
than the gullet. First make gullets 3, 7, 11, very obliquely in the vertical plane ; first fil-
SAW-FILING.
49
ing the face of one tooth, and then the back of the other. Then file ^
the backs of teeth s VL.
4, 8, 12, with flat side of file, at an angle 5° to 40° with the edge, and 80° to 60° with the side of the blade (the 5° and 80° being for the hardest woods, and the 40" and (iO° for the softest).
One common rule given is as follows : File the faces or fronts before the backs. Where the teeth are to be square, file in regu- lar succession, 1, 2, 3,4.
Where there is "fleam," file 1, 3,
5, 7 to right ; 2, 4, C, 8 to left, etc.
File the fronts of all teeth set from you, and the backs of those srt towards you.
50
SAW-FILING.
Circular Saw Teeth should be fled en the under side.
Hints.— The first six or eight inches at the point of a hand rip-saw may be given "cross- cut " pitch, with which you can cut through knots without changing saws.
The last teeth of cross-cuts may be rounded at the points to prevent tearing on entering and leaving.
A sheet-steel gauge (Fig. 45) will show if a circular saw tooth is exactly to shape.
A templet for making all the teeth of a cir- cular saw of the same outline, distance be- 1 ween points, and dis- tance from the saw center, may be made of savv plate or sheet xinc, and used on a radial arm, as shown in Fig. 46, while the saw is on the arbor.
S AAV- FILING. 51
Where a tooth is only slightly broken off, it
brought up by a crotch swage,, as shown Figs. 48 and 49. A small U gullet in the angle of teeth,, as in
SAW-FILING.
Fig. 47.
SAW-FILING.
Fig. 20, page 30, tends to save the file from stripping.
Better file all along in three light filings, than do the whole of each edge at one cut.
In sharpening an under- cut or a parallel tooth, there is danger lest the original shapes and sizes get perverted, as in Figs. 51, 52.
An M tooth should have slightly flaring sides, and then it may be kept in size and shape easily with a special file, cutting side and gullet at one operation. Figs. 47, 50, 53, show the manner of filing a " Great American " cross- cut with a special file.
When one tooth of a circular saw is too short, it may be brought out to line by using the swage as a lever while hammering upon it. (See Figs. 48 and 49.)
Referring to Fig. 54, which shows five differ-
Fig. 50.
SAW-FILING-.
55
ent conditions of teeth of circular rip-saw- that shown at A has nearly all the swaged portion bro- ken or worn off one side. This can be remedied without swaging, by squar- ing and filing so that both sides are alike. Tooth B lias the cutting edge al- most square,, but the corners are un- equal. In this case the file should be MS 3d to make both
corners alike, as at
C, and then the
swage will bring
out the points as
at D, condensing
the metal well into
the corners ; but if
the wood is very
hard, such an out- line as either side
pf E is preferable.
SAW-FILING.
In removing a circular saw from the arbor, when hot at the eye, it should not be leaned
Fig. 53.
up against any tiling, else it will very likely <>;rt dished, Px'foro taking a saw from the
SAW-FILIXG.
57
inandrel, it should be cooled by letting it run a few mi nates, out of the cut. (Sitnonds.)
The harder the emery wheel used for gulleting
and sharpening, the more apt it is to glaze a saw.
Glazing, by reason of use of too hard emery
wheels, is apt to cause checking and splitting
of the t3eth m swaging.
Styles of Circular Saw Teeth,— Refer*
c ^\\X-
B
Fig, 55,
ring to Figs. 55, 56, 57, we find the teeth A
58 SAW-FILING.
at the left of Fig. 55 raking to a circle rather more than half the saw diameter ; and the next two sets, B, C, to a circle f the saw diameter. The softer the wood, the more rake the teeth may have. In two of these sets, B, C, tfhe back has a separate rake rendering the teeth less acute than if the back was in one line.
In Fig. 56, the rake of the left hand and middle sets is to a circle not quite half the saw diameter.
Fig. 56.
Calling these styles A to G inclusive, as let- tered in the illustrations, Grandy would use class E for ripping hard wood in the winter, and C for hard wood in the summer, working G in the summer on every class of wood. Styles B, C, and F would be used for harder wood than if the back had. no rakes
SAW-FILING,
59
Style F (better with a rounder gullet) would be used, say 2 inches long for soft wood and 1§ inches long for hard ; in the first case getting f pitch and in the second | pitch. For small pow- er and light feed a shorter tooth is used than when sufficiency of power enables heavier feed.
Styles H to N inclusive, Fig 57, are nearly all, except M, forms of ripping teeth but little
K
L
M
Fig. 57.
ised in soft wood ; and M is properly a cross- cutting tooth. L is a shape very common in England and France ; being produced entirely nth a mill-file. M " goes'5 quickly in frosty veatluT, particularly when it strikes a knot.
SET. — Set the tooth and not the plate of the saw (when bending for set). This will pre- vent the distortion and springing of the blade,
£0 SAW-FILIXG.
and the frequent cracking natural in fine full- tempered cast steel blades when carelessly or wrongly spring-set.
For glue-joints it is best to use a saw without set ; and a good workman will run a winter saw with little or none, the back holding the blade stiff and square, and keeping it from springing. In this, its C3mparatively short length assists.
It requires a first-clacs workman to use a hand-saw without set ; and, conversely, a man who can drive a saw surely and straight, without twist or buckle, tremble or varying pressure, can run it with little or no set, except in very gummy or very hard wood.
Spring ys, Spread Set— The C. 1ST. Nelson Lumber Co., Cloquet, Minn., say : " A spring set with a slightly shearing tooth unquestiona- bly cuts the easiest, but as it is only the corner of the tooth that cuts, you will require twice as many teeth in a spring set as you will in a full swaged saw ; and as power is a secondary consideration in a saw-mill where fuel costs nothing, the full swage is generally preferred as being easier taken care of."
We must, however, take particular excep- tion to the statement that "power is a second- ary consideration in a saw-mill, where fuel costs nothing."
SAW-FILING. Cl
There are other items of expense in pro- ducing power ; the principal onts being inter- est, wear and tear, lubrication, insurance, fire- men's wages, " boiler compound," etc. So that if a given amount of work can be done with 200 horse power, there is no use in paying for these items in a 250 horse "plant."
In order to make a cross-cut fast-cutting, it must have deep teeth, so as to give plenty of throat room to carry out the sawdust.
One advantage in blunt end saw-files is, that their sides are less tapered than " sharp-end- or,"
Cleaner Gauge.— Fig. 58 shows the cleaner gauge referred to on page 14, for keeping the cleaver teeth of a cross-cut shorter than the cutters, and all of a uniform length.
Gummers. — One point of advantage of a rotating steel-cutter gummer over an emery eel is chat, whereas an inexperienced hand ruin a saw by case-hardening with an emery .eel, such cannot be done with a steel-cutter, " burr gummer." Most of the emery gum- rs for circulars require that the saw shall be n off its arbor to be gummed ; all burr mcrs work with the saw in position.
SAW-FILING.
Crotch Swages. — In the manufacture rr crotch swages, it is found that the tempering is a difficult matter, a good many being lost in this operation. The jaws have to be tempered very hard ; but if this hard tem- per run back too far there is a tendency for them to split. Just around the notch they must be very hard, and the rest must be soft and tough.
It is best that crotch swages be fitted with a side guard to prevent the hand of the operator being injured by the swage slipping off the tooth. This guide may be made to serve also as an at- tachment to keep the swage central, or to throw it over so as to give the saw more lead on one side than on the other.
The Simonds Manufac- turing Company makes a swage that is claimed io act on the teeth back from the cutting edge as
SAW -FILING. 63
well as at the edge, spreading them to the re- quired width without materially reducing their length. This, if accomplished as claimed, would leave the rate of reduction of saw diame- ter and increase the life of the saw.
It is claimed to give strong substantial shoulders to the teeth, thus making them stand hard work without dropping corners, and to spread them about the saw on the face as on the top, causing the saw to cut easy, and clear well, and steadying it in the cut.
In the collar are depressions serving as guides to keep the teeth in proper shape, by there being a sharp an-gle for summer sawing, and a ore obtuse one for winter work. The question was asked in a recent issue of Tlte Mechanical Engineer" of New York: " Suppose we have a circular saw, with teeth •aced as shown in Fig. 59. Will it make the nt easier or harder (keeping the feed per revo- lution the same) to cut out every other tooth, s in Fig. 60 ? "
To this the author made substantially the following reply :
"EDITORS MECHANICAL ENGINEER : — In the matter of number, or distance apart, of circu- lar saw teeth, referred to by your correspond- ent ' Michigan,' in your last issue, page 40,
64
SAW-FILING.
i s
SAW-FfLIKO.
65
the enclosed sketches show the effect of wide spacing by giving increased throat-room, not only per tooth, but in the whole saw. In Fig- ure Gl are shown parts of three properly formed teeth ; and the dotted rim-line gives the outer boundary of the throat-space. Now cutting out the middle tooth, as in reducing by one- half the number of teeth in the saw each tooth has to take double depth of cut, if the feed per revolution remains the same, tooth A will have as throat-room not only the space «, which it had before, and the space, #, which tootli 7? had before being cut out, but the space occu- 3ied by tooth B is also added to the throat- oom of A. Thus, while it has double the cut,
Fig. 62.
ad hence removes double the kerf, it has iree times the space to hold the sawdust, or ather cuttings ; for a rip-saw should mortise
66 SAW-FILING.
its way through a log, and not make fine dust.
" So, within certain limits, we are gainers by removing every other tooth ; for instead of hav- ing to cut through the fibers twice, with a given feed per revolution, they are cut only once. That is, if the saw is 56 inches diameter and has 56 teeth, and the feed is 7 inches per revo- lution, each tooth will mortise I" deep at a cut ; whereas, with only 28 feet, each tooth will, if the feed remains 7 inches per revolution, cut in I inch, and have more than double the space to hold the cuttings.
"If, then, the saw is heated and bound be- cause of insufficient throat-room, it will be less liable than before to do so.
"But there is another thing to look at. While we have lessened by one-half the amount of power expended in cutting through the fibers, we have more than doubled the strain on the teeth, in crumbling down and wedging out the cuttings; and this strain tends to break out the teeth-points. There would be cases where it would be advisable to strengthen the tooth- point, by deepening the gullet ; gradually work- ing it down at each successive gumming, until the outline was ns shown in A, Fig. 62. This s even greater gullet than the outline shown
SAW-FILIKG. 67
in Fig. Gl ; the back and face of the tooth have the same rake as before, but the points are stronger.
" The question of few or many teeth in a rip- saw depends almost entirely upon the character of lumber being ripped ; and the feed per revo- lution should be made dependent upon the strength of the teeth to resist breaking, and the capacity of the gullet to hold the cuttings. In a cross-cut the conditions are different." To Straighten a Circular Saw. — Get a hard-wood block 12x12", bed it, on end, 0:1 the ground (not on the floor). Round the top off with, say J inch rise. Nail up a joist at ic back of the block, for the saw to rest on ; et its face be an inch below the top of the •lock. Do not use an iron anvil.
Use a 3 or 4 Ib. blacksmith's hammer for aws over 50 inches ; a lighter one for smaller tid thinner disks.
For large saws the straight edge should be about T1-6-" thick :— say 20" long, 3^ wide in enter, 1" at end ; the edge of the straight iide chamfered or rounded off.
Balance the saw on a mandrel, and apply the traight edge. Mark the high places with chalk. Have a helper to hold the saw on the block, ad hammer on the humps, testing frequently.
68
By this means a saw may bo changed from right to left handed, or vice verxa.
If the saw is rim-bound, or center-bound, it should be nailed between two circular boards each an inch larger than the disk, and sent to a good saw maker (preferably the one who made it) to be straightened and given the pro- per tension for the speed at which it is to be run.
High places may be taken out of straight saws in the same way.
Choice of a Hand-Saw. — A good hand- saw should spring regularly in proportion to its width and gauge ; that is, the point should spring more than the heel, and the curve hence not be a perfectly circular arc.
If the blade is too thick for the size of the teeth, the saw will work stiffly.
If the blade is not well, evenly and smoothly ground, it will drive hard and tend to spring. The thinner the gauge and narrower the blade, the more need for perfectly uniform and smooth grinding ; and, per contra, the smoother and more uniform the grinding, the thinner and narrower a saw you can use.
The cutting edge is very often made on a convex curve or with a "crown" or "'breast/' to adapt it to the natural rocking motion of the hand and arm.
SAW-FILING. 69
By holding the blade in a good light, and tapping it, you can see if there are imperfec- tions in grinding or in hammering.
Before buying a saw, test it on about the same grade of work as it is intended to be put to.
It is a mistake to suppose that a saw that is easily filed and set is the best for use. Quite the reverse is true. A saw that will take a few more minutes and a little harder work to sharpen, will keep its edge and set longer than one that can be put in order quickly ; and will work better in knots and hard wood.
Comparison of Circular Saw Teeth.— deferring to the line of cuts showing various tyles of teeth for circular rip-saws : — Style 63 cuts a smooth surface, and the duller smoother, as a rule ; but takes considerably lore power to do a given amount of work, on ccount of the friction at the sides. The cor- ners wearing off, would leave a tooth worn like 39, which, on swaging, would be like 70, re- {iiiring considerable side-filing. This would iiuse the sa\\r to wear "stunted" or obtuse, 1 aster than some other styles — notably that iown at 68, with concave front edge and sides. Style 0-1, with lono- curving taper, is a modi- ieat ion of (>;>, and approaches nearer to 68 ; con-
70 SAW-FILING.
sequently would be somewhat better than 63 in the matter of power, swaging, etc. Both styles can be produced only as inserted teeth, and are practicable only in clear, hard wood, and with plenty of power.
64 65 66 67
Style G5, with straight front edge and very short curved sides, is the most practicable form of swaged teeth, and is easily reproduced with a few blows of the swage, requiring but very little side-filing to keep a sharp corner, and giving the best possible side clearance.
Style 66, in which the tooth has both bent .Hid spread seL takes less power than any other style, wears ihe ;>lale less, and will shift from iny kind of timber to another
SAW-FILING.
71
Style 67, in which there is bent set and con- siderable " shear/7 is practicable only on soft pine, as second growth pasture pine. Where the timber grows with the limbs low down, and is as near one way of grain as another, this style will cut less fuzz, and consequently take less power, where the tooth has stock enough to resist the tendency to spread sideways, or " make set," as termed by sawyers.
Style 68, with concave front edge and short
side curves, is about like Of) ; their capacity being about the same, giving 05 the preference.
Style 71, with a "double bevel shear," is ,-! ally impracticable, except in very soft watc*
72 EMEKY WHEELS.
soaked pine, or hemlock. Of course, where the plate is thick enough to give strength, it takes less power than a tooth of style A on the same plate. It is better fitted for a cut-off saw than for split- ting. It is used by some sawyers mostly for hemlock taken from the pond in summer time.
The double bevel 71 answers for plain triangular teeth with consid- erable hook, but for teeth like 73, (which have the same outline, but are " rights and lefts,") F. H. Ste- vens recommends such a bevel as is shown at 72, in which the bev- eled sides, as well as the back of the tooth, have clearance.
Emery Wheel vs. Grindstone. -- The
emery wheel has the advantage over the grind- stone that it can be made thinner to run with safety, and can be run at higher speed. The principal objection urged against it is its heat- ing the saw. This may be obviated by using a water-proof wheel and running a stream of wntor diivcily into the cut. "But ,•'„",, <>f J»H the emery wheels used for this purpose " (says M r.
EMERY WHEELS. 73
T. Duncan Paret) "are used dry; there being but one make of wheel in the United States on which the use of water is recommended." The same intelligent inventor and manufacturer writes the author as follows, as to the methods of running wheels :
How to use Emery Wheels. — " The sim- plest method by which solid emery wheels can be applied for saw gumming is by placing them on the spindle of the circular saw. The saw to be gummed can then be laid on the saw table, or supported in any convenient way. A simple way is to pass the end of a rope with a small cross stick on it through the eye of the saw, and thus suspend the saw so that it swings evenly balanced just in front of the emery wheel. The weight being thus carried, the operator only has to use his hands to guide the saw against the wheel. In the south and south- west, where expensive machinery is scanty, and where people are slow to introduce the latest improvements, there is a steady demand for saw gumming wheels all the way from 14 to 24 inches in diameter. In the north-west, where the latest improvements are quickly added, re- gard less of price, nearly all the emery wheels used for sa \v-gumming are from 12 inches in diameter to S inches, none, of the machines spc*
74 EMERY WHEELS.
cially designed for saw gumming being intended to carry anything above a 12-inch wheel."
Sizes and Shapes of Emery Wheels.— Saw gumming wheels are used with the edge (or face) square, round, or beveled.
The principal sizes are :
Holes, 4% 1 and 1 inch.
8xi U in. hole. }{{*? 1 4 in. hole.
8x^ \
}
Probably more wheels 12xf, 12x|, and 12x| are used, than all the other sizes together. Saw gumming wheels are used, however, of all sizes up to 24xH.
While the variety of sizes as well as of shapes is largely dependent on the variety of saws, it is also greatly influenced by individual taste and opinion. The general preference is for bev- eled Avheels, and probably j- of all sold for sn\v gumming purposes are this shape.
In this connection the gentleman last quoted says: " It seems questionable whether this choice is wise. On page 226, 2d edition ' Grimshaw on Saws,' it is stated that 'Sawdust packs in the side of the log and board, sometimes on account of the shape of the gullet.' Kow where a hoveled wheel is used, there is too little
EMERY WHEELS.
75
room at the bottom of the gullet to hold any sawdust, and it is forced between the saw and the wood. Where a round faced wheel is used, and a large, full, round gullet left, there is space for the sawdust to be accumulated and carried round with the saw till it leaves the log and drops the dust. I am therefore inclined to think that round faced wheels are preferable.5' We show herewith, in actual thickness, the largest and smallest usual sizes of saw gum- ming wheels made by the Tanite Co. :
76
EMEHY AY HEELS, ft
Figs. 74 and 75 are regular bevel ; 70 and 77, half round ; 78, short blunt bevel ; 79, blunt double bevel ; 80, irregular double bevel ; 81, double beveled from flange.
Hardness of Emery Wheels. — The Tan- ite Co. makes five distinct classes for saw gum- ming ; and can so vary the quality as to suit all tastes. We give below a brief description of these classes :
"2." Medium hard ; preferred by J the pur- chasers ; is a fast cutting wheel, too hard for some, too soft for others.
"3." Medium soft; same grain as class 2, but softer and freer cutting.
"Pocono." Extra soft, recommended by its makers, above the other grades. It is finer grained and softer than either 2 or 3, and is particularly recommended to those experienced practical sawyers "who know how to grind with a light touch, and who want a free cut- ting wheel that will not create much heat.7'
"Paradise." Same coarseness as "3," but rougher, more open, and faster cutting.
" 5 Special." A fine soft wheel only used on automatic saw gumming machines
78 BRAZING BAND SAWS.
Brazing Band Saws. — The gasoline blowpipe is the most convenient means of heating large-size band saws for brazing ; but an ordinary mouth blow-pipe and oil lamp with a large wick makes satisfactory work for light band saws.
Scarf the sides of the broken end on op- posite sides about half through, and lap about f to i an inch for small saws. Place in the lap a thin piece of coin silver, which flows better and is tougher than brass. Moisten the surfaces with borax, ground on a stone with water to a paste. Bind with small binding wire of iron ; pin to a piece of flat charcoal with wire clips, and heat with the broad flame from the blowpipe. Where convenient, a pair of tongs may be heated to a white heat and gripped upon the splice. Then carefully file the overlap- ping parts to an even thickness.
For very heavy saws, a resort to riveting is often made to hold the scarfs together firmly. For good work, the solder should be thin and placed in the scarf with enough to overlap so as to fill the scarf when melted.
SPEED OK CIRCULAR SAWS. 79
Speed of Circular Saws. — The speed of saws is very essential to the production of good lumber. There is a standard. A good sawyer will retain his speed — not a given standard, but as to the condition of the saw's tension. The log takes the saw above or below the speed it is destined to run at, which is attended invariably by bad sawing. New saws should be kept up to speed by all means, or the saw will eventually dish permanently and have to be rehammered. A saw not up to its speed invariably runs from the log dishing. This will eventually Dermanently dish the saw. A sawmaker, dien taking the order for the saw, is given speed about so and so, and he, knowing :>ut little better, takes it down. Now, this is known to vary 200 revolutions. The saw 3eing hammered too open is condemned as lefective ; it won't run because it won't stand up to its work. . If the sawyer had jcod judgment, he would be very particular about correct speed. A good sawyer will try to maintain the speed to suit the saw's condition or hammer it.
80 SPEED OF CIRCULAR SAWS.
The greatest trouble is in too high speed. This brings about, first, bad lumber, second, a spoiled saw, as there is nothing that ruins a saw quicker than heat on the rim and run- ning it winding across the log. A great many adhere to the stiffness of the saw, wanting a stiff saw. This is all right if some consideration is taken. If a saw is a heavy gauge, 48 to 54 inches, running at a slow speed, a stiff saw is all right. Such a man will contend for a stiff saw on any mill, judging from experience, but this is limited.
Centrifugal force is a natural strain that a high speed is exposed to, and no high- speeded saw will stand one-half the abuse that a moderate-speed saw will. One thing : it will cut just two or three times as much lumber. The higher the speed, the more and better lumber is made. If everything in connection with the saw is in perfect condition, and capable of standing it, 11,000 feet, or two miles, per minute on the rim is fast enough for most any of our mills. We sometimes find them running over 12,000 —
;
SPEED OF CIRCULAR SAWS. 81
10,000 is suitable for the average mill ; and if saw is ordered hammered to that speed, the sawyer should see that it runs very nearly to it.
All saws should be as stiff at their speed as the metal will allow. If properly ad- justed, any saw can be made so. Saws run- ning at a high speed are liable to crack or check, if not hammered right, which few men thoroughly understand. Many sawmakers overlook this, and where there is complaint of cracked saw, too often the
.wmaker attributes it to fire cracks, bad umming, and the like, when nine times out of ten it is in the tension.
Swing cut-off saws should not run over 10,000 feet per minute, owing to their be- ing liable to fracture from being jammed or finished so often. A mill may be speeded up as it should and the saw not run well. This is when the saw needs hammering. If the sawyer can't do it, and has not the tools, he should send it to where it can be done. Too much time is often lost work- ing with a saw needing hammering, to say
82 SPEED OF CIRCULAR
nothing of the lumber spoiled. Some saws have to be hammered very often, owing to the manner in which they are tensioned.
A thick saw will stand a higher speed than a thin one ; but a rim velocity of ior
000 feet per minute is as fast as a saw ever ought to run. A taper saw will stand a higher speed than an even gauge, for the reason that the rim is lighter, and the ex- pansion from centrifugal force will be less.
If a saw heats in the center, give it more set ; if it heats on the rim, either the backs of the teeth are too high, or the saw is cut- ting with too much feed, and it chokes.
THE USUAL SPEEDS FOR CIRCULAR SAWS IN REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE.
12 inch, 3,000 30 inch, 1,200 58 inch, 625
16 inch, .->,222 34 inch, 1,058 60 inch, 600
1 8 inch, 2,000 38 inch, 950 62 inch, 575 20 inch, i, 800 42 inch, 870 64 inch, 550 22 inch, 1,636 46 inch, 800 66 inch, 545 24 inch, 1,500 50 inch, 725 68 inch, 529 26 inch, 1,384 54 inch, 675 70 inch, 540 28 inch, 1,285 56 inch, 650 72 inch, 500 and in proportion for intermediate sizes.
A 56-inch saw of first-class make and set,
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SA\VS. 83
running at 625 revolutions per minute, has cut 116 feet of poplar and pine boards per minute, and from 90 to 100 feet of oak per minute — using about 100 horse power.
It is estimated that in small mills, say of 10 horse power, a single saw will cut 4,000 feet of boards in 10 hours. In larger mills i,ooofeet per horse power per day is not an uncommon product.
How to Hammer Circular Saws.— An old sawyer gives the following advice on the care of saws :
The saw being the life of your mill, keep it in good condition. The chief element of lis is in hammering and keeping the saw straight and true. The former we will term tension, which applies to keeping the iw open to accommodate the centrifugal force applied by its speed. The latter, straightening, applies to keeping the plate lie and free from lumps. Saw hammering
a peculiar art, and accomplished by but ew to any degree of perfection, simply from the many fogy ideas advanced by men, some of whom boast of their twenty years'
84 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
experience. I have stood for ten years at the lever, watching closely every so-called peculiarity of the saw.
The first thing is to straighten your saw. This is done on a wooden, firm, end-grain block or leather-padded anvil. All mill saws dish more or less from the log, and are full on that side. It is necessary to lean the saw until the center sags so that it will appear as straight as possible, then with a 2o-inch straight-edge mark all the full places, watching closely just outside of the collar. Near the rim apply the straight- edge at right angles in several positions ; it is best to use, say, a 1 2-inch straight-edge on the rim, as you can get closer to the teeth. Mark your saw with chalk or hard soap, on the rim, when you find places to show straight one way, but high the other way ; make a long mark directly in line with the straightest way. This indicates a twist, and will in all cases on the rim ex- tend toward the center of the saw. When the 2oinch straight-edge is applied on the radius (from center to rim), such a place
TO IIAMMKK CIRCULAR SAWS. 85
will not show, but take the 1 2-inch and ap- ply across this line, and yon will find it to be high. If there is a twist, it will be higher on the extreme edge. The straight pene hammer must be used on such places, the straightway of the hammer directly on the straightest way of the saw, which is to- ward the center. As the extreme edge is the highest, nearly all the blows must be applied there, care being taken not to go too far in. A twist showing six inches is often removed by. hammering only on the rim. Twisted places are sometimes found at the center when the saw is dished.
Having laid off the saw, go to the block and strike one blow on every mark with the round face of the hammer, using the long face on the long marks. The first opera- tion may dish the saw in the other way, which, if not too much, shows good work. Don't rub out your marks, and when the other side is laid off, notice if any of the marks correspond ; if so, too heavy a blow was applied ; in this way the heft of blows can be determined. Work on both sides of
86 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
the saw, getting the rim as true as possible and leave it leaning a trifle to the log. This constitutes a straightening. If your saw's tension is nearly right it will now run much better, but this is not always the case. I will add here that before attempting to straighten a saw as described, a careful in- spection must be made. All saws get long or loose on the rim by use, and it is a com- mon thing among small mills to find saws so loose on the rim as to form a twist or winding position ; if not quite so loose, it will not be winding, but may appear nearly straight with the rim very flimsy, while the center will be as stiff as a board. In short, all such saws are stiff in the center and will not give, and must be tensioned before straightening.
This tensioning is done by stretching the saw nearer the center on an anvil with firm blows, regardless of the lumps in the saw. First, strike a circle line one-half way the radius, then t\vo lines two inches apart be- low this, and one above, four lines in all. Hammer the two center lines first on both
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 87
sides of the saw, but if it is very loose on the rim, it will often require four to six lines ; in such cases the lines can be closer together. Never go nearer the rim than one-third the radius, and not much closer to the center. Keep this in view. The one-half way part of the saw must be the more open. A saw open too near the cen- ter will not run at all in many cases. After giving your saw some tension, nine times out of ten your twisted saw, to your sur- prise, will show up straight. Sometimes a saw gets twisted through accident ; such saws will show the center a little loose, and when they do, take the twisted saw to the block with a long pene, as stated. High- speeded saws require to be more open in the center, many of them dishing through with a snap. A saw too open will heat in the center and crowd from the log, while a saw too loose on the rim will snake and assume a complete wind or twist when a little hot on the rim. In such cases the center has to run hot in order to get anything like work out of the saw. A saw too open in
88 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
the center is stiffened by hammering the rim, not nearer than two inches of the teeth ; very little work on the rim will change a saw. When the saw has abont the right spring, straighten it up on the block ; then a trial will determine its tension. If the saw will not screw up true, the collar should be turned. If a saw is to remain on the mandrel, it may be papered if the col- lars dish it.
It is very essential that unequal tension be corrected in a saw that runs at a high or even moderate speed. Not one man in fifty knows anything about this, to say nothing of how to remove it.
Unequal tension is this : One part of the saw being tighter or more open than the other. I could write a volume on this important part of the saw's life. Now, to remove it, and in the simplest way, screw the saw up on the mandrel, take hold of the tail of the saw with the right hand (if it is a right-hand mill) and spring the saw all you can to you, and at the same time apply the long
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 89
straight-edge and notice closely the open- ing. Apply the straight-edge say every six inches, moving the saw and noticing the variation in light. You will find some places spring more, while others remain nearly to the straight-edge ; mark these places plainly. Now go on the outside of the saw, having everything free, so you can spring the saw, except the guide pins, which must be close to the saw. On this side mark the variations as before. If your saw has a loose place, you will find that it stood off more on both sides at that place. A tight place will stand off less and alike on
h sides. In simpler words, loose places ippear as though the plate was very thin, while tight places appear . thick because they stand closer to the straight-edge on both sides of the saw, loose places the far- thest away. An open place on one side which shows high on the other indicates a lump ; such a saw is not true, and must be taken to the block and trued up.
To remove loose places, hammer near the rim opposite such a place. Tight places are
90 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
stretched right where they show it. For practical purposes, the saw should show very nearly the same spring all around. Always test both sides, and when even a slight variation is found it should be re- moved ; then, if the saw is too open or too stiff, treat the center or rim a little on the anvil.
The fogy method is to always hammer a saw on the anvil, striking it as heavily as possible. When a saw requires a little straightening, it is mostly on the rim (the outlet of the saw) ; if this is done on the anvil, what is the result? Lumps partly beaten down, with all the tension gone ; then the hammerer goes to the center to overcome just what he ought not to have done. A few blows on the block, and the saw would have retained its tension — been in better shape with ten times less work. No man can remove a twist in this way, directly on the rim. I have noticed over fifty such men, and they never get right up to the rim of a saw. Why? Because- it \yill curl up, every time, on the anvil,
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 91
Test this with a piece of sheet iron and be convinced. The tinner, iron and copper- smith are sensible men ; they have their copper or mallet hammer and a smooth block to straighten their work on. Why ? Because only a blow or two on an anvil would stretch it into a wind, and then they are done. The saw is precisely the same way, and it remains only a question of time that the saw will be unequally tensioned, and then it is done. A man that knows anything about tension in a saw will take care of that vital part. Take a dished saw that requires only a few light blows near the collar, on the block. What does the fogy do? Stretch the rim, " pulling the dish " out, and a lot of other foolish things. A saw too open requires the rim stretched, but never a dished saw. Another idea is to hammer in lines from the center to the rim, only to result in tight and loose lines and to buckle the saw. A man of gumption ought to know better than this, and this is the cause of many fractured saws. Others' theories are, that when a saw is sprung it
92 HORSE POWER.
must be sprung more to get the lump back. My idea is, if it is sprung it ought not to be, and should be gotten back without addi- tional stretching, namely : the block.
Small saws are treated precisely as large ones, but much more mildly. An expert, changing from a thick saw to a thin one, invariably will strike too heavily ; great care must be exercised. They require but little tensioning, and should be stiff. Blue spots are treated on the block, and when they come back the rim should be stretched opposite such a place. Their appearance continually indicates a loose place.
Horse Power Required to Run Circu- lar Saws.— The horse power required to drive circular saws doing no work, accord- ing to experiments, is represented by the
formula : Power = in which n is
32,000
the number of revolutions per minute and d the diameter of the saw in inches, to which the net power for cutting should be
added, which is - - for soft wood and . 12 6
HORSE POWER. 93
for hard wood. A — square feet of surface of lumber cut per foot in length ; C= thick- ness of kerf or cut in decimals of an inch. For example, a 56-inch saw running free at 650 revolutions per minute requires a
. 650 x 56
speed power or ==1.14 horse power ;
32,000
and to cut pine logs that will make an aver- age of 10 boards of 12 inches in width, the area of surface for 1 3 cuts, including edging, in the log for each foot in length = 13 square feet ; and if the saw cuts a kerf .2 of an inch wide, then for 30^,000 feet er day of 10 hours the amount will be
A C feet per minute. By the formula -
12
for pine and white wood, 13 x 2 = 26 square feet of board surface per foot in length and
>X.2
= .43 x 50 = 21.5 horse power, and
for hard wood - = .86 x 50 = 43 horse
Dower ; to each of which should be added .14 horse power for the saw alone and enough for running intermediate shafting ;ino belting.
94 CARE OF HAND SAWS.
Filing and Setting Hand Saws; Jointing; Saw Clamps; Saw Sets; Files and Vises; Keyhole and Compass Saws; Butchers' and Meat Saws. — Modern tools and machinery have made the various operations of filing, setting and polishing hand and other saws much simpler than a few years ago, and nowadays any amateur can, with a little practice, set, file, gum or straighten any ordinary saw as well as an expert.
While saws are far cheaper than formerly it still pays to care for a saw properly and to have the right kind of tools and files for keeping even the cheapest saws in good con- dition.
Broken, warped, bent or very rusty saws are scarcely worth bothering with, unless you are far from any store where a new saw can be purchased or have to use the old one on hand in case of emergency. Very fair hand saws may be bought for 75 cents to $1.50 each, and at such prices the time re- quired to put an old, badly-used saw in good shape is worth more than a new one.
Kvery one who uses saws of any kind should, however, have an up-to-date saw- clamp similar to that illustrated in Fig. 82.
SAW CLAMPS.
95
This clamp should be bolted or screwed to a piece of wood which may then be clamped in a vise or bored with holes and fitted with bolts by which it can be readily attached to a post, beam or bench. Of course where
Fig. 82. — Saw Vise or Clamp.
are used considerably and frequent set- ig or tiling is necessary, the clamp may be stened permanently to some convenient ench or other object. In using the clamp care should be taken
96 SAW SKTS.
(lint the ed^es of the jiiws are perfectly smooth and even. Many well made clamps :in<l oilier tools are often varnished, jap mined or enamelled and drops of these ma- terials often collect and harden on the faces of the jaws, thus tending to an insecure and iMiceriain ^rrip and liability of bending or straining the saw blade. To avoid this and prevent vibration and squeaking the better saw vises are provided with rubber cush- ioned jaws.
In setting saws the best tools to use are the hand sets shown in Fijj. S:»,. l*>y means of the screw adjustment .1, these tools may- be changed to set any ordinary saw from heavy crosscut or buck-saws to tine toothed panel or mitre saws, and when used care fully will produce a very uniform and regu- lar set on any saw. They are very simple to use for the saw is merely inserted in the clamp, the set adjusted to the best pitch and slipped over (he saw edi^e and (he handles of the set pressed firmly together when the tooth to be set is exactly underneath the plunder. If familiar with setting saws for various purposes (he user will be able to jud^e tl:e amount of set required, but if a
SETTING SAWS.
97
novice it is best to place the set over one of the teeth close to the handle of the saw — where they are usually but slightly worn, and retain the original set — and then ad- just the tool by these teeth.
Frequently a hand saw that has been used
Fig. 83.— Saw S.
for some time and has been reset or filed will show a concave or hollow edge instead of a slight crown. While a saw thus worn will work fairly well if kept set and filed yet a great deal of time and trouble can be saved by grinding or filing down the edge until restored to its original straight or crowned shape. To do this the saw should be clamped between two strips of steel in the
98 JOINTING HAND SAWS.
saw clamp as shown in Fig. 84, and the pro- jecting edges filed or ground away. The strips of steel, which should be perfectly true on the edges or with a slight crown, should then be moved down on the saw until the upper edges are exactly in line with the lower edges of the lowest gullets on the saw. With the three-cornered saw file go over each tooth and file it in to the edge of the
Fig. 84. — Saw Ready for "Jointing."
steel strip, and when all are thus treated set and file the saw as usual.
This operation is known as "jointing," and is of great importance if a saw is to be kept in first-class condition. While it is easily done by using a file as described, yet it can also be accomplished by using a ready- made "jointer clamp" or a carborundum or emery wheel in place of the file.
It is next to impossible to set a saw by any hand method so that all the teeth arc exactly even, and for truing these teeth up and thus producing an even running and
SIDE FILING.
99
clean cutting saw a side file should be used. This consists of a flat file and holder as shown in Fig. 85, which can be adjusted by set screws to fit any width of set.
In filing a saw considerable practice is
Fig. 85.— Side File and Clamp.
required, but otherwise no great skill is essential. There are, however, a few im- portant points to bear in inind. Always hold your file nearly level; file a few teeth and then turn the saw over and file the alter- nate teeth on the opposite side to see if they shape up evenly. If they appear all right you can then turn the saw back so the
100 FILING HAND SAWS.
handle comes at your left hand and file all the teeth on that side. This is the hardest side of the saw to file properly, and after this side is done you can turn the saw around with handle to your right and file this side. If you attempt to file this side first you would be almost certain to cut the teeth too deep, and if you continually turn the saw first on one side and then t'he other you will get the teeth uneven. A common trouble is in getting large teeth one side and small ones the other. This causes the saw to turn or "lead" to one side in use. This unevenness is due to changing the posi- tion of the file or hand or to turning the saw from side to side while you work.
When a tooth comes to a point? filing should be stopped, even if the shape is not perfect, for it is better to let the shape go rather than cut down more of the tooth and get it out of line. Where an old saw has teeth of varying sizes from improper filing, you will have to file it twice to remedy it. The larger teeth will be the longest, so they should be filed or "jointed" down until all are even and then the saw should be filed with the file held at an angle of 45 degrees
FILING HAND SAWS. 101
and nearly level, with the file tipped in such a way that the corner strikes the bottom of each tooth first. Pay no attention to the small teeth, but note the large teeth and keep the file bearing against the face of the tooth you are working on. This will re- sult in keeping away from the small teeth and cutting down the large ones. If the hook or "rake" of the teeth is poor it should be increased by filing the face of each tooth, using the file so that it cuts into the base or "gullet" of the tooth first. While filing the back of the teeth makes an apparent increase dn the hook, yet in reality it does not do so.
To maintain a saw in good shape you must vary the position of your file each time it is used. If you follow the same angle and level each time poor results will follow and instead you should keep cutting away under the base of the teeth, taking a long bevel each time the saw is filed. A saw for hard wood requires less bevel than for soft, but for ordinary purposes the bevel should be maintained that will work most easily on either hard, soft, or medium woods.
Hand saws, especially panel and mitre saws, are very apt to bend, warp or buckle.
102 STRAIGHTENING SAWS.
The slightest bend will make a saw drive hard and saw crookedly, and any such devia- tion from a true surface should be remedied at once for it will rapidly increase and soon become too bad to overcome. Any slight crook or bend may be removed by placing the saw upon a slightly rounded block of hard wood and striking the saw a smart blow with a medium weight hammer. Great care should be used not to strike too hard or in a glancing direction, and much bet- ter results may be accomplished by repeated light blows than by single heavy blows. There are several good methods of ascertain- ing the spots to be straightened and a good method is as follows : The saw blade should be laid upon a perfectly flat surface and rubbed over with Prussian blue tube oil color spread evenly over it. A smooth, per- fectly true piece of iron or steel is then drawn along the blade, and the high or warped spots will readily show by the blue rubbing oil', while hollow or indented spots will remain coated with the paint. Another method is to place the saw on a smooth even surface — a piece of heavy plate glass is the best — and run a straight edge over
STRAIGHTENING SAWS. 103
it, marking the bent or warped spots with chalk. If a hand saw is bent and refuses to straighten by hammering it may often be straightened by a slight application of heat. This is best accomplished by rubbing a red or white hot piece of iron over the surface of the concave side of the bend. If the oppo- site side of the saw is resting on a cold or wet surface — such as a wet cloth spread flat —the heat on one side will cause the iron to expand and straighten the bend in most cases. If the saw buckles back after cool- ing it should be treated again, and while still warm and straight, a few blows with a hammer should be given the surface where the bend occurs. This will still further ex- pand the metal and will straighten the blade. Great care should be taken not to heat the saw enough to injure the temper and the hot iron should be merely passed over the surface of the blade and not held against it for any length of time.
Keyhole and compass saws are usually rather soft and easily bent, and can only be kept straight by careful use and frequent straightening by heat or hammering.
Butcher's and meat saws are seldom trou-
104 BUTCHER'S SAWS.
blesome by crookedness or warping as they are set taut in frames and are quite flex- ible. Many of these saws are injured or ruined by repeated setting and filing by in- competent itinerant tinkers and scissors grinders with no practical knowledge of saws or their requirements and practically any butcher's saw will show a decided hol- low or concave edge after a few filings. The tendency to acquire this concavity is greater in narrow saws of this sort than in hand saws with a wide blade for the continual up- ward pressure against the blade, held be- tween the two ends of the frame, will in time bend the blade edgewise. It is a very hard matter to straighten a meat saw edgewise after it has become badly concaved on the edge, but this trouble may be readily avoid- ed by filing the slightly worn or sharp teeth at each end as well as the dull or worn teeth each time the saw is set and filed. Ky using a straight edge in the vise when filing, the teeth at 1he ends may be always kept filed down to Hie same height as those in the center, and if this small matter is looked after crcri/ lime 1he sa\v is tiled the saws will invariably work better and last longer.
METAL-WORKING SAWS. 105
Metal Working Saws; Hack Saws and Band Saws; Lubricating Saws; Sharpening Hack Saws; Using Broken Hack Saw Blades; Mending and Brazing Band Saws; Stopping Cracks from Spreading; Adjustable Adapters for Saw Blades; Files for Saws; Filing Band Saws.— Probably no class of saws are sub- jected to such hard usage and wear as the various metal-working saws now in uni- versal use. Circular saws, band saws, scroll saws and hack saws are all used in cutting metals of various kinds and practically every brass foundry uses band saws for re- moving fins and projecting pieces of metal from their castings. Such castings being of various sizes, shapes and thickness as well as of various degrees of hardness demand the utmost limit of service and endurance from the saws, and as a result the saws are often in very bad shape and break long be- fore their condition is apparent and proper attention is given them. Short, stout, blunt teeth with a comparatively slight. ofl'set: and straight edges give the best service for this class of work, and wherever possible the saws should be selected that will give the
106 LUBRICATING SAWS.
best general results. A considerable por- tion of the trouble with metal-working saws is due to the heating of the saw by its fric- tion with the material being cut, and this is especially true of saws used in trimming castings, as such objects jump and wobble considerably on the saw table and thus bind the saw unevenly. If a thick oil is allowed to drip on the saw while in use or tallow or some similar lubricant is placed in a spring- actuated receptacle which presses it against the moving blade, the life of metal working saws will be greatly increased. Perhaps no substance has greater power to lubricate and facilitate cutting than spirits of turpen- tine. This will enable an ordinary hack saw to cut glass readily, and while it will burn and smoke if used on a saw that runs very hot, it may be combined with tallow or grease to produce both a lubricant and an aid to easy cutting. When using any such material, however, care should be taken that the cool lubricant is applied to both sur- faces of the blade equally as otherwise the saw will bend, warp or buckle worse than a dry saw.
Hack saws, whether hand or machine, are
RESETTING HACK SAWS. 107
seldom worth resetting or sharpening as the blades are very cheap and are rapidly worn out. While it is impracticable to reset or file a small hack saw by hand yet blades that are dulled or clogged may be greatly improved by a bath in dilute sulphuric and muriatic acid. This eats away a small quantity of
metal leaving a Fi&- 86- — Saw Teetn as Seen dl> J [1 b Under a Microscope.
sharp " saw - tooth "
edge, which appears as in Fig. 8G when seen
under a microscope.
As soon as the saw is sufficiently cut by this method it should be immersed in a strong solution of soda or other alkali and then wiped dry, warmed and thoroughly oiled or greased. Files which have appar- ently become utterly useless may be recut and made as good as new by this same proc- ess for the bits of wood, dirt, soft metals, etc., in the various cuts are dissolved or eaten out by the acid while the edges of the ridges are thinned down and sharpened at the same time.
Broken hack saws should be cast aside as
108 REPAIRING HACK SAWS.
a rule, but if inconvenient or impossible to secure a new one the broken blade may be shortened and a new hole bored for the frame holder by softening the broken end by heat and cutting the rough edge off with either a cold chisel or file and drilling a new hole or holes with an ordinary twist drill. If the saw — beyond the point to be softened — is wrapped in wet cloth or is inserted be- tween larger pieces of cold metal/ the saw may be heated red hot at the spot desired without injuring the temper elsewhere. Sometimes a broken blade will be too short to fit even an adjustable frame and under such circumstances two broken saws may be joined together by rivets or screws until the desired length is obtained. Of course tli is is merely a makeshift repair, but it will often prove of great value and convenience in time of emergency.
Permanent repairs on broken band saws or hack saws may be made by brazing or by autogenous welding by oxo-acetylene meth- ods, and while it is always advisable to have a broken saw bra/ed or welded by a special- ist in this work yet band saws, large scroll
BRAZING BAND SAWS. 109
saws, etc., can be brazed by any one with practice and proper tools.
To braze a band saw the lap of the ends should be as short as possible and never more than one tooth. File the bevel so teeth will match at the lap and place enough sil- ver solder (which comes in ribbon form) to cover the joint, place the saw in a brazing clamp so that the joint or lap comes in the middle of the clamp opening, place the solder in the lap, sprinkle it with borax or some brazing flux and heat a pair of flat tongs white hot and clasp them firmly on the saw at the joint. By pressing the hot tongs together with another pair of tongs on the points of the hot jaws a greater pressure and better job will be accomplished. Hold the brazing tongs perfectly tight until they cool and turn black and then remove them, file the joint perfectly smooth and clean the solder out of the teeth. The materials re- quired are merely the solder that costs $1 per ounce, the clamps that cost 25 cents, and the tongs. The tongs should be carefully heated, for if too hot and sparkling a poor joint will result, while if too cool the solder will not fuse perfectly. Great care should
110 CRACKS IN SAWS.
also be taken to let the tongs, clamps and saw cool slowly, as water sprinkled upon them to hasten cooling will ruin the result- ing joint. Although this all sounds very simple, yet you will require considerable practice before a good brazed joint can be made, and it is best to practice on old use- less broken saws until proficient.
Many times a saw, especially circular saws and large hand saws, will show a small crack near or at the edge. These cracks will rapidly increase in size and will either ruin the saw completely or will result in a piece of metal breaking off and flying into the air, frequently with serious injuries as a result. Such cracks may be remedied and prevented from spreading by boring a small hole at the inward limit of the crack, Fig. 87. It is a very easy matter to drill such a hole either by hand drill or drill press if the surface is treated with a mixture of camphor and turpentine and the drill is wet with the same liquid. If the crack extends out to the gullet of the teeth the outer edge should be filed out to an even, rounded shape, Fig. 88, in order to prevent its catch- ing and chipping.
ADAPTERS FOR HACK SAWS.
Ill
The universal use of hand hack saws has led to a fairly standard length of saws and
Fig. 87.— Stopping Crack from Spreading.
Fig. 88. — End of Crack Smoothed.
holders or frames, and the latter are now generally made adjustable to a considerable extent so that any slight variation in the
Fig. 89.— Adapter for Various Sizes of Hack-Saw Blades.
length of blades may be taken up. In very few frames, however, is there more than a slight adjustment possible and where only one holder is available and various sized blades are used, a simple method of adapt-
112
FILES FOR SAWS.
ing the blades to the frames may be ar- ranged as shown in Fig. S!). In this cut, A A indicate the ends of the frames where the saw is held by pegs or pins passing through holes in the saw B B. By making an iron or steel extension with holes at vari- ous distances as at C, saws of any length may be used in the frame as shown at D D. The choice of a file for saw sharpening is almost as important as the selection of a
Fig. 90. — Angular Gullets. Fig. 90a. — Round Gullets.
saw itself. Ordinary three-cornered and Hat files will answer and thousands of saws are annually filed and filed well with a three-
Fig. 91.— Round-Edged File.
cornered file, but unless care is taken the three-cornered file will often cut into the back of the next tooth to the one being iiled, making the gullet very sharp or angular, Fig. 90. A better form of file is shown in Fig. 91, while several forms of files espe
SPECIAL SAW FILES.
113
dally designed for saw work are shown in Fig. 92.
Fig. 92.— Forms of Saw Files.
In filing band saws the special band-saw file, Fig. 93, should be used, and for the
Fig. 93.— Band Saw File.
various sized teeth the files should be of sev- eral sizes. These files are three-sided with round corners as shown, and by their shape the gullet of the saw is rounded, Fig. 9(M,
114 RAKE FOR BAND SAW TEETH.
instead of sharp or angular as mentioned above. The round gullet gives a far better cutting saAv and renders the latter less liable to breakage.
The teeth of the band saw should be filed straight across instead of at an angle, thus giving a more or less chisel-like point, but a rake should be left similar to the pitch of a plane iron, Fig. 94, which will allow the saw teeth to shave or plane off the material sawed. Without a good rake or pitch the Fig' 94-Rake of Teeth' teeth merely scrape or scratch out the ma- terial with a result that slower work is done, requiring far more power and greater strain on the saAv.
Much breakage of saws can be avoided, especially in metal sawing, if two saw guides are provided, one being above the table with an adjustment for various thick- nesses of material and the other beneath the table merely to steady and guide the saw. Roth of these guides should be provided with an adjustment which will accommodate various widths of saws and the back of the
GUIDES FOR BAND SAWS. 115
saw should always run against the guide at all times, thus providing a firm bearing and taking all edge strain from the blade save for the comparatively short distance be- tween guides. The teeth of the saw should however always run beyond the edge of the guide, for if the teeth run in the guide-slot the points or set of the teeth will either wear away or the guide will be cut. In the former case the teeth soon become pin-point- ed and will not cut, while in the latter case there will be too much play in the guides and the saw will buckle and break.
Polishing, Cleaning and Grinding Saws; Car- borundum and Carborundum Wheels; Home Made Saw Clamps and Saw Sets; How to Fold Band Saws; Tables of Gages; Sizes and Number of Teeth of Various Kinds of Saws. — One of the most common troubles with saws is the great difficulty in keeping them smooth and polished and free from rust which not only prevents their proper action, but makes them very hard to drive with consequent heating and warping.
Under ordinary conditions a saw may be readily kept smooth and bright by wiping
116 POLISHING SAWS.
and oiling after use, but where used around salt water ordinary oil will not prevent rust from forming. The best material in the world for use on saws or other tools to pre- vent rust is cocoanut oil. A piece of smooth iron or steel well coated with this lubricant may be immersed in salt water for several hours and allowed to dry without wiping and will not rust to any extent. In warm weather the oil, which is normally a tallow- like substance, becomes liquid, and in order to use it under such conditions it is advis- able to melt it up with its own weight of hard paraffine or tallow, which will prevent it from becoming too soft to remain on the surface of the saw or other tool.
Saws that have become rough, rusty or pitted may be polished by rubbing with emery paper, oil and emery, powdered car- borundum or similar abrasive compounds and finishing with powdered pumice, tripoli, rotten stone, or rouge.
When polishing a saw it should be laid
g 95. — Protecting Teeth While Polishing.
upon a perfectly fiat surface with the
POLISHING SAWS. 117
protected by setting them into a grooved strip of wood, Fig. 95. Emery cloth will answer very well for cleaning, but powdered emery or carborundum with lard oil or uThree-in-One" oil is better, while one of the various <k Vale-grinding Compounds," prepared in collapsible tubes for automobile use is the best material of all. When every part of the blade is thoroughly cleaned and bright the emery or other abrasive should be wiped entirely off and a smooth poll si KM! surface imparted by rubbing with powdered pumice and oil, followed by fine rouge, tripoli or rotten stone and oil.
Never use any of the various prepared metal polishes as they invariably contain strong acids or alkalis which will ruin and pit the surface of the metal. When polish- ing with emery or carborundum the material should be used by spreading on a smooth flat block or piece of wood covered with a soft cloth or chamois to insure an even sur- iace and the movement in polishing should be in a more or less rotating or circular direction covering the entire surface of the blade and not rubbing in one spot at a time as otherwise an uneven surface is sure to result.
118 CARBORUNDUM.
The common emery wheels formerly used for gumming or grinding saws have now been almost entirely superceded by carbor- undum. This material, which is a product of the electrical furnace and was acciden- tally discovered in an attempt to produce artificial diamonds or other precious stones, is next in hardness to the diamond, and is also very cheap. In its original form, as taken from the furnace, it is a mass of beau- tiful crystals of magnificent prismatic col- ors, but when broken, crushed and ground it appears as a dull, brownish material. It is sold in the form of powders of various degrees of coarseness, and in the shape of whetstones, grinding wheels, etc.
For saw work this material is especially well adapted for it cuts rapidly and smooth- ly and can be had in any degree of fineness.
AVlien an emery wheel arbor or grinding stand is not at hand a carborundum wheel may be operated by placing it on a circular saw mandril, while excellent results may also be obtained by rigging up an old scroll saw, lathe or sewing machine to operate carborundum wheels. On large saws, espe- cially circular saws, carborundum wheels
HOME-MADE CLAMPS AND SETS.
119
will be found of great value, and many of the modern gumming machines are equipped with these w^heels.
It is often a great convenience to have saw vises or clamps and saw sets when ready made ones cannot be procured. Such things are easily made from either wood or metal, and there is no reason for anyone going without such appliances. A service- able saw vise can be made by merely clamp- ing the saw between two strips of hard wood or metal held in an ordinary bench vise, Fig. 90, while pieces of soft brass or zinc placed over the ordinary vise jaws will answer all purposes at a pinch.
Home made saw-sets can be devised by
Fig. 96.— Wooden Saw Clamp.
Fig. 07. — Saw Set from Pliers.
cutting a notch in one side of a pair of pliers and inserting a small tooth in the
120
COILING BAND SAWS.
opposite jaw, Fig. 97, but a punch and die made from a bit of metal and a cold chisel will also do good work, Fig. 98. Still an- other set may be made by cutting — two slits in an old screw driver, chisel or similar tool and bending them as shown in Fig. 99. This tool should be placed over the tooth to be set and then brought back and down- ward as shown until the prongs A A bear against the saw.
Many users of band saws have been puz- zled to determine just how the saws are folded or coiled for shipment, and no matter how carefully the saw may be unpacked or unrolled it is very difficult to dis- cover how to roll it again. When once the secret is known it is. however, a very simple matter to roll or fold a .-saw set from screwdriver, hand saw properly.
Fig. 98.— Saw Set from Block and Chisel.
COILING BAND SAWS.
121
In Fig, 100 a band saw is illustrated coiled or folded properly, but it will be noted that while it rests on the floor in three coils the three loops do not lie flat and in one plane as would be the case with a broken saw. In Fig. 101 the first operation of folding is
pig< 100.— Band Saw Coiled.
Fig. 101.— Coiling Band-Saw.
shown. Grasp the saw by the two hands with the toothed edge from you and twist the smooth edge or back away from you and downward as shown by the arrow A. While doing this allow the lower free part of the
122
COILING BAND SAWS.
Fig. 102.— Coiling Band-Saw.
Fig. 103.— Coiling Band-Saw.
Fig. 101. —roiling Baml-Saw,
COILING BAND SAWS. 123
saw to be clear of any obstruction, and as you twist you will find that the saw tends to spring into two loops or circles as shown in Fig. 102. As soon as the saw gets into the position shown in Fig. 103 it should be
S
Fig. 105. — Coiling Band-Saw.
brought together as shown in Fig. 104 and twisted as indicated by the arrow B. This twist results in its falling easily into three even coils, two of which are formed by the first twist (A), which turn one over an-
124 COILING BAND SAWS.
other as the third is formed by the twist at (B). The three rings or loops will then fit closely together and will not untwist or open of their own accord. Fig. 105 illus- trates the operation practically complete
Fig. 106.— Coiling Band-Saw.
with two coils overlapping and teeth upward while the last loop formed has the teeth downward and remains to be twisted until the teeth on the last coil turn uppermost, and the loop may then be dropped into ad-
COILING BAND SAWS. 125
justment with the first two. Fig. 106 shows the coiled saw raised up to show the manner in which the three coils lie together.
Saws coiled in this way are much more convenient and less liable to injury or break- age than when kept unrolled, and whereas a broken saw can be coiled by anyone an endless saw is impossible to roll, and must be folded as illustrated.
TABLES OF SIZES, GAGES AND NUM- BER OF TEETH OF VARIOUS SAWS
DIAMETER AND THICKNESS OF CIRCULAR SAWS
|
Diam. |
Thickness (Gage) |
Diam. |
Thickness (Gage) |
|
4 in. |
.19 |
36 in. |
.9 |
|
5 |
.19 |
38 " |
.9 |
|
6 |
.18 |
40 " |
.9 |
|
7 |
.18 |
42 " |
.8 |
|
8 |
.18 |
. 44 " |
.8 |
|
9 |
.17 |
46 " |
.8 |
|
10 |
.16 |
48 " |
.8 |
|
12 |
.15 |
50 " |
.7 |
|
14 |
.15 |
52 " |
.7 |
|
16 |
.14 |
54 " |
.7 |
|
18 |
.13 |
56 " |
.7 |
|
20 |
.13 |
58 " |
.7 |
|
22 |
.12 |
60 " |
.6 |
|
24 |
.11 |
62 " |
.6 |
|
26 |
.11 |
64 " |
.6 |
|
28 |
.10 |
66 " |
.6 |
|
30 |
.10 |
68 " |
.5 |
|
32 |
.10 |
70 " |
.5 |
|
34 |
.09 |
72 " |
.5 |
126
TABLES OF CIRCULAR-SAW TEETH. 127
COLUMBIAN
SUPERIOR
Inserted Tooth Circular
Saws Any Gage to 8
Inserted Tooth Circular
Saws Any Gage to 8
|
Diam. |
Teeth |
Diam. |
Teeth |
|
40 in. |
38 |
40 in. |
22 |
|
42 " |
40 |
42 |
24 |
|
44 " |
42 |
44 |
24 |
|
46 " |
44 |
46 |
26 |
|
48 " |
46 |
48 |
26 |
|
50 " |
48 |
50 |
28 |
|
52 " |
50 |
52 |
28 |
|
54 " |
52 |
54 |
30 |
|
56 " |
54 |
56 |
30 |
|
58 " |
56 |
58 |
32 |
|
60 " |
58 |
60 |
34 |
|
62 " |
60 |
62 |
34 |
|
64 " |
62 |
64 |
36 |
|
66 " |
64 |
66 |
40 |
|
68 " |
66 |
68 |
44 |
|
70 " |
68 |
70 |
44 |
|
72 " |
70 |
72 |
46 |
|
74 " |
72 |
74 |
50 |
128
DIMENSIONS OF BAND SAWS.
BAND SAWS
|
Width |
Gage |
Width |
Gage |
|
^in. |
18 |
3 in. |
17 |
|
Ys ' |
18 |
3^ " |
17 |
|
y* ' |
18 |
4 " |
16 |
|
Ys ' |
21 |
4^ " |
16 |
|
*A ' |
21 |
5 " |
16 |
|
% ' |
21 |
5^ " |
16 |
|
i < |
21 |
6 " |
16 |
|
ly* ' |
20 |
7 " |
16 |
|
i^ ' |
20 |
8 " |
14 to 16 |
|
m ' |
20 |
9 " |
14 " 16 |
|
\v> i |
20 |
10 " |
14 " 16 |
|
m ' |
19 |
11 " |
12 " 14 |
|
2 l |
19 |
12 " |
12 u 14 |
|
VA ' |
19 |
14 " |
12 |
|
21A ' |
19 |
SCROLL SAW BLADES
Length ...................... 8 to 24 in.
Width ....................... 1-32 to 2"
Gage ........................ 13 to 24 "
HACK SAW DIMENSIONS.
129
LUMBERMEN S CROSS-CUT SAWS
|
Length. . Ga^e |
4 to 8 ft. |
|
|
14 to 19 " JK SAW BLADES |
||
|
IIA( |
||
|
Length |
Gage |
Width Teeth |
|
6 in. 7 " |
24 24 |
Yi in. Standard 14 teeth to inch. |
|
8 " 9 " |
24 24 |
For tubing, thin y> " metal and |
|
10 " 11 " |
Y± " brass, 23 teeth 24 [V li to inch. |
|
|
12 " 12 " |
24 21 |
;•',; ll Standard 14 teeth to inch. |
|
12 " 12 " 14 " 14 " |
21 18 21 18 |
For thin metal, % " tubinsr, brass, 52 " etc., 23 teeth ^ " to inch. |
|
17 " |
21 |
M " |
|
17 " |
21 |
1 |
|
17 " 17 " |
18 18 |
% " 1 " |
|
18 " |
18 |
1 " |
|
19 " |
18 |
1 (; |
|
20 " |
18 |
1 |
|
21 " |
18 |
1 |
INDEX
A.
PAGE
Adapters for Hack-saws Ill
Amount of Set 33
Angle and Rake 16
B.
Bent Set; Operation of Bending for Set 24
Brazing Band Saws 78, 109
Butcher's Saws 104
C.
Carborundum 118
Care of Hand Saws 94
Choice of a Hand Saw 68
Choice of a Saw 36
( 'lioice of Teeth for Special Purposes 19
Circu]ar Saw Teeth 50
ification of Saws. ". 9
( leaner (Juagc 61
Coiling Hand Saws 120
Comparison of Circular Saw Teeth (>X, (>9
("racks in Saws 110
Cross-cuts; Hand, T \vo-man, Circular 11
Crotch Swages 62
130
INDEX. 131
E. PAGE
Elements of the Teeth 12
Emery Wheel vs. Grindstone 72
F.
Files 41
Files for Saws 112
Filing Clamps 39
Filing Hand Saws 100
Frequency of Filing 36
G.
Guides for Band Saws 115
Gullet or Throat 34
Gummers 01
Gumming or Gulleting 21
H.
Hand vs. Machine Filing and Setting 37
Hardness of Emery Wheels 77
Hints and Wrinkles 50
Home-Made Clamps and Sets 119
Horse Power to Run Circular Saws 92
How To Hammer Circular Saws 83
How To Use Emery Wheels 73
I.
Introduction 7
J
Jointing Hand Saws 98
132 INDEX.
K. PAGE
Kind of Set 22
L.
Lubricating Saws 100
M.
Metal Working Saws 105
Mixter's Rotary 22
O.
Operation of Filing 45
P.
Polishing Saws 116
Preface . 3
R.
Rake for Band Saw Teeth 114
Repairing Hack Saws 10S
Reset ling Hack Saws 107
Reversible Blade (in turner 22
Rip-Saws, Hand, Sash, Circular, and Band 10
S.
Saw Clamp 05
Saw Sets 0(>
Setting Saws 07
Side Angle or Fleam IS
Side Filing 00
Side Jointing •')">
INDEX. 133
PAGE
Sizes and Shapes of Emery Wheels 74
Spacing of Teeth 15
Special Saw Files 113
Speed of Circular Saws 79
Spread Set; Swaging 27
Spring vs. Spread Set 60
Straightening Saws 102
Styles of Circular Saw Teeth 57
T.
Table Dimensions of Band Saws 12S
Table Hack-Saw Dimensions 129
Table of Circular-Saw Teeth 127
Table-Teeth of Various Saws 127
Tooth Length 14
Top Jointing ;;5
To Straighten a Circular Saw 07
mmjmm^MMkmJi^^^
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132 Nassau St., New York, U. S. A.
wrorwwwwror^w^
INDEX OF SUBJECTS
Brazing and Soldering 3
Cams 1 1
Charts 3
Chemistry , 4
Civil Engineering 4
Coke 4
Compressed Air 4
Concrete 5
Dictionaries 5
Dies— Metal Work 6
Drawing -Sketching Paper 6
Electricity 7
Enameling 9
Factory Management, etc 9
Fuel 10
Gas Engines and Gas 10
Gearing and Cams 1 1
Hydraulics 1 1
Ice and Refrigeration 1 1
Inventions —Patents 12
Lathe Practice 12
Liquid Air 12
Locomotive Engineering 12
Machine Shop Practice 14
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Marine Engineering 17
Metal Work-Dies 6
Mining 17
Miscellaneous 18
Patents and Inventions 12
Pattern Making 18
Perfumery 18
Plumbing 19
Receipt Book 24
Refrigeration and Ice 1 1
Rubber 19
Saws 20
Screw Cutting 20
Sheet Metal Work 20
Soldering 3
Strain Engineering 20
Steam I -1 eating and Ventilation 22
Steam Pipes 22
Steel 22
Watch Making 23
Wireless Telephones 23
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COKE
COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE; INCLUDING THE ANALYSIS OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS.
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ELECTRICIAN'S HANDY BOOK. By PROF. T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. This work is intended for the practical electrician, who has to make things go. The entire field of Electricity is covered within its pages. It contains no useless theory; every- thing is to the point. It teaches you just what you should know about electricity. It is the standard work published on the subject. Forty-one chapters, 610 engravings, handsomely bound in red leather with titles and edges in gold. $3.50
ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS, ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. By ARTHUR P. HASLAM. A practical book for power producers and power users showing what a convenience the electric motor, in its various forms, has become to the modern manufacturer. It also deals with the conditions which determine the cost of electric driving, and compares this with other methods of producing and utilising power. 312 pages Very fully illustrated. $5$. 50
ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By PROF. T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. The object of "Electricity Simplified" is to make the subject as plain as possible and to show what the modern con- ception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different metals immersed in acid can send a message around the globe; to explain how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. SI. 00
HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN.
By PROF. T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. An interesting book from cover to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest and easiest way to become a successful electrician. The studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained. 202 pages. Illustrated. SI. 00
MANAGEMENT OF DYNAMOS. By LUMMIS-PATER- SON. A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged in three parts. The first part covers the elementary theory of the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action of the different classes of dynamos in common use are described; while the third part relates to such matters as affect the prac- tical management and working of dynamos and motors. 292 pages, 117 illustrations. 81.50
STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By Prof. T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. A practical handbook of reference contain- ing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every term used in electrical science. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. $3.00
8
TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION. WIRING, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE. By W. H.
RADCLIFFE and H. C. GUSHING. This book gives the principles of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent instruments; approved methods of installing and wiring them; the means of protecting them from lightning and abnormal cur- rents; their connection together for operation as series or bridg- ing stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line wiring and the wiring and operation of special telephone systems are also treated. 180 pages, 125 illustrations. Sl.OO
WIRING A HOUSE. By HERBERT PRATT. Shows a house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it. Where to begin; what wire to use; how to run it according to insurance rules, in fact just the information you need. Directions apply equally to a shop. Fourth edition. 25 cents
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By JAMES ERSKINE-MURRAY. This work is free from elaborate details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap- ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro- duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations — jlossary of Technical Work. Cloth. 81.00
ENAMELING
FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC.
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY RECEIPT BOOK.
by GARDNER D. Hiscox. A work of 10,000 practical _ ceipts, including enameling receipts for hollow ware, for metals, for signs, for china and porcelain, for wood, etc. Thor- ough and practical. See page 24 for full description of this book.
I S3. 00
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP- NT AND MANAGEMENT. By O. E. PERRIGO, M.E. A k designed for the practical and every-day use of the Archi- who designs, the Manufacturers who build, the Engineers wno plan and equip, the Superintendents who organize and direct, and for the information of every stockholder, director, officer, accountant, clerk, superintendent, foreman, and work- man of the modern machine shop and manufacturing plant of Industrial America. $5.00
FUEL COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTIO
OF SMOKE. By WM. M. BARR. To be a success a firema must be "Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good COT dition, and prevent, as far as possible, the smoke nuisana To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is forme and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. H can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combustion of Coal. It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firin of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $!.(]
SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. B
BOOTH and KERSHAW. As the title indicates, this book of 19 pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of complet combustion, which it treats from the chemical and mechanic; standpoints, besides pointing out the economical and human tarian aspects of the question. $2.5
GAS ENGINES AND GAS
CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. M
ROYLES. A practical treatise for the use of gas engineers, ga managers and students. Including among its contents — Prepa rations of Standard Solutions, Coal, Furnaces, Testing ani Regulation. Products of Carbonization. Analysis of Crude Coz Gas. Analysis of Lime. Ammonia. Analysis of Oxide of Iror Naphthalene. Analysis of Fire-Bricks and Fire-Clay. Weldor «nd Spent Oxide. Photometry and Gas Testing. Carbui etted Water Gas. Metropolis Gas. Miscellaneous Extract? Useful Tables. $4.5
GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, Or How to Build a Half Horse-power Gas Engine. By PARSELL and WEED. A prac tical treatise describing the theory and principles of the action o gas engines of various types, and the design and construction of ; half-horse-power gas engine, with illustrations of the work ii actual progress, together with dimensioned working drawings giv ing clearly the sizes of the various details. 300 pages. $2.5<
GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By GARDNER D
Hiscox. Just issued, i8th revised and enlarged edition. Kvcr; user of a gas engine needs this book. Simple, instructive, anc right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tell all about the running and management of gas, gasoline and oi engines as designed and manufactured in the United States Explosive motors for stationary, marine and vehicle power an fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts and tabu lated sizes, also their care and running are included. Electrit Ignition by Induction Coil and Jump Sparks are fully explainec and illustrated, including valuable information on the testing fo: economy and power and the erection of power plants.
The special information on PRODUCER and SUCTION GASES in eluded cannot fail to prove of value to all interested in the gen eration of producer gas and its utilization in gas engines.
The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriter: in regard to the installation and management of Gasoline Motor: is given in full, suggesting the safe installation of explosive motoi power. A list of United States Patents issued on Gas, Gasolin* and Oil Engines and their adjuncts from 1875 to date is included 484 pages, 410 engravings. 83. SO nel
MODERN GAS ENGINES AN1> PRODUCER GAS PLANTS. By R. E. MATHCT, M.E. A practical treatise of 320 pages, fully illustrated by 175 detailed illustrations, setting forth the principles of gas engines and producer design, the selec- tion and installation of an engine, conditions of perfect opera- tion, producer-gas engines and their possibilities, the care of gas engines and producer-gas plants, with a chapter on volatile hydrocarbon and oil engines. This book has been endorsed by Dugal Clerk as a most usetul work for all interested, in Gas Engine installation and Producer Gas. 82.50
GEARING AND CA IS
BEVEL. GEAR TABLES. By D. Ac. ENGSTROM. No one who has to do with bevel gears in any way should be without this book. The designer and draftsman will find it a great con- venience, while to the machinist who turns up the blanks or cuts the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed dimensions are given and no fancy figuring need be done. $1.00
CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By OSCAR E. PERRIGO. A book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who is inter- ested in feed changes for any kind of machines. This shows what has been done and how. Gives plans, patents and all information that you need. Saves hunting through patent records and rein- venting old ideas. A standard work of reference. 81.00
DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Louis ROUILLION. The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to go at it right. This puts you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 25 cents
HYDRAULICS
HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By GARDNER D. Hiscox.
^ treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all
purposes. Including the measurement of streams; the flow of
water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling water;
urbine and impact water-wheels; wave-motors, centrifugal,
ciprocating, and air-lift pumps. With 300 figures and dia-
ams and 36 practical tables. 320 pages. 84.00
ICE AND REFRIGERATION
POCKET BOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAK-
By A. J. WALLIS-TAYLOR. This is one of the latest and .ost comprehensive reference books published on the subject E refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the manage- ment of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insula- tion of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different legrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non-freezing brines, emperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold orage charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of e, data and memoranda for constant reference by refrigerating ngineers, with nearly one hundred tables containing valuable iferences to every fact and condition required in the installment operation of a refrigerating plant. 81.50
II
INVENTIONS— PATENTb
INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT PAY. This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in per- fecting: their inventions, taking out their patents, and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's Circular, nor a latent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any description appear in the work. It is a book containing a quartei of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together with notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. SI. 00
LATHE PRACTICE
MODERN AMERICAN LATHE PRACTICE. By OSCAR
E. PERRIGO. An up-to-date book on American Lathe Work, describing and illustrating the very latest practice in lathe and boring-mill operations, as well as the construction of and latest developments in the manufacture of these important classes of machine tools. 300 pages, fully illustrated. S2.5O
PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By JOSEPH G. HORNER. A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in a comprehen- sive manner the modern practice of machining metal parts in the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, its essential design, its uses, its tools, its attachments, and the manner of holding the work and performing the operations. The modernized engine lathe, its methods, tools, and great range of accurate work. The Turret Lathe, its tools, accessories and methods of performing its functions. Chapters on special work, grinding, tool holders, speeds, feeds, modern tool steels, etc., etc. $3.50
TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By FRED H. COL- VIN. There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and one other. This treatise has to do with the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other little things that you should know. Fourth edition. 25 cents
LIQUID AIR
M^IQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES. By T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. Theory, history, biography, practical applications, manufacture. .365 pages. Illustrated. $2.00
LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING
AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By ROBERT H. BLACKALL. This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westinghouse Air-Brake Equipment, including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E T Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick-Service) Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump. The operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail, ami a practical way of finding their peculiarities and defects, with a proper rernedv, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with their answers, which will enable any -ailroad man to pass any examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used by air-brake instructors and examiners on nearly every rail- road in the United States. 236 Edition. 380 pages, fully illustrated with folding plates ",nd diagrams. 92.00
AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By FRED H. COLVIN. The most complete book on compounds published. Shows all types, including the balanced compound. Makes everything clear by many illustrations, and shows valve setting, breakdowns and repairs. 142 pages. $1.00
APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM TO LOCOMOTIVES. By ROBERT GARBE. A practical book. Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives using Highly Superheated Steam; Experimental and Working Results. Illus- trated with folding plates and tables. S3. 50
COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. By WM. M. BARR. To be a success a fireman must be " Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good con- dition, and prevent as far as possible, the smoke nuisance. To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. * He can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combination of Coal." It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00
LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By
FRED H. COLVIX, Associate Editor of "American Machinist." A handy book that clears up the mysteries of valve setting. Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why. Piston and slide valves of different types are illustrated and explained. A book that every railroad man in the motive- >wer department ought to have. Fully illustrated. 50 cents.
LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By FRANK KLEIXHANS. The only book showing how locomotive ilers are built in modern shops. Shows all types of boilers used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of riveting punches and dies, work done per day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets and other data that means dol- lars to any railroad man. 421 pages, 334 illustrations. Six folding plates. $3.00
LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REM- EDIES. By GEO. L. FOWLER. Revised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued 1910 Revised pocket edition. It is put of the question to try and tell you about every subject that is covered in this pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer may ex- pect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected ones, troubles that could occur, but that you had never thought about, and you will find that they are all treated with the very best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 294 pages. Fully illustrated. $1.00
LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW. 27th revised and enlarged edition. This may well be called an encyclopedia of the locomotive. Contains over 4,000 examina- tion questions with their answers, including among them those asked at the First, Second and Third year's Examinations. 825 pages, 437 illustrations and 3 folding plates. $2.50
13
NEW YORK AIK-BTIAKE CATECHISM. By ROBERT H. BLACKBALL. This is a complete treatise on the New York Air-Brake and Air-Signalling Apparatus, giving a detailed de- scription of all the parts, their operation, troubles, and the methods of locating and remedying the same. 200 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00
POCKET-RAILROAD DICTIONARY AND VADE ME- CUM. By FRED H. COLVIN, Associate Editor "American Machinist." Different from any book you ever saw. Gives clear and concise information on just the points you are interested in. It's really a pocket dictionary, fully illustrated, and so arranged that you can find just what you want in a second without an index. Whether you are interested in Axles or Acetylene; Com- pounds or Counter Balancing; Rails or Reducing Valves; Tires or Turntables, you'll find them in this little book. It's very complete. Flexible cloth cover, 200 pages. $1.OO
TRAIN RULES AND DESPATCHING. By H. A. DALBY. Contains the standard code for both single and double track and explains how trains are handled under all conditions. Gives all signals in colors, is illustrated wherever necessary, and the most complete book in print on this important subject. Bound in fine seal flexible leather. 221 pages. $1.50
WALSCHAERT LOCOMOTIVE VALVE GEAR. By
WM. W. WOOD. If you would thoroughly understand the Walschaert Valve Gear, you should possess a copy of this book. The author divides the subject into four divisions, as follows: I. Analysis of the gear. II. Designing and erecting of the gear. III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions and answers re- lating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. This book is specially valu- able to those preparing for promotion. Nearly 200 pages. $1.50
WESTINGHOUSE E T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION POCKET BOOK CATECHISM. By WM. W. WOOD, Air-Brake Instructor. A practical work containing examination questions and answers on the E T Equipment. Covering what the E T Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when de- fective. Not a question can be asked of the engineman up for promotion on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E T equipment that is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thor- oughly understand the E T equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examina- tions easy. Fully illustrated with colored plates, showing various pressures. $2.0O
MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE
AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGE- ABLE MANUFACTI'RING. B} J. V. \Voon\voRTH. A practical treatise on the dc-si^ning, constructing, use, and in- stallation of tools, jigs, fixtures, appliances, sheet-metal working processes, automatic mechanisms, and labor-saving contr er with their use in the lathe milling machine, turret lathe, screw machine, boring mill, power press, drill, subi" >r the working of metals, the production of interchangeable machine parts, and the manufacture of repetition articles of metal. 560 pages, 600 illustrations. $4.00
HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN- GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by JOSEPH G. HORNER. A.M.I.Mech.I. This work covers the entire prac- tice of 'Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known ex- perts in all branches of engineering have contributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted to the needs of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the mechanical engineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman and machinist.
It is a modern treatise in fr/e volumes. Handsomely bound in Half Morocco, each volume containing nearly 500 pages, with thousands of illustrations, including diagrammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. S25.00 for the com- plete set of five volumes. $6.00 per volume, when ordered singly.
MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC. By COLVIN-CHENEY. Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all shop problems are worked out and "why." Includes change gears for cutting any threads; drills, taps, shink and force fits; metric system of measurements and threads. Used by all classes of mechanics and for instruction of Y. M. C. A. and other schools. Fifth edition. 131 pages. 60 cents
MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DE- VICES. By GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, ac- companied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all readers with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections or chapters in which the subject matter is classified under the following heads: Mechanical Powers, Transmission of Power, Measurement of Power, Steam Power, Air Power Appliances, Electric Powei and Construction, Navigation and Roads, Gearing, Motion and Devices, Controlling Motion, Horological, Mining, Mill and Factory Appliances, Construction and Devices, Drafting Devices, Miscellaneous Devices, etc. nth edition. 400 octavo pages.
$2.50
MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVE- MENTS AND NOVELTIES OF CONSTRUCTION. By
GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a supplementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations and descriptions of many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices and appliances found_in different lines of Machinery. Each device being shown by a line drawing with ;L description showing its working parts and the method of opera- tion. From the multitude of devices described, and illustrated, mi;cht be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors^and elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers, solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss • her valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles, railway block signals, car couples, link and i notions, ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy , and a large accumulation of others of equal importance. 1,000 specially made engravings. 396 octavo pages. $2.50
cpppfAf OPFFR These two volumes sell for $2.50 each, orEA-'1/*Ll ^rrr,iv ^ut when t^e two volumes are ordered at one time from us, we send them prepaid to any address i:i the world, on receipt of $4.00. You save $i by ordering thS two S of Mechanical Movements at one time.
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP- MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By OSCAR E. PERRIGO. The only work published that describes the Modern Machine Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped. Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, Time and Cost Systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a prac- tical shop man for practical shop men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-around book of its kind ever published. 400 1arge quarto pages, 225 original and specially-made illustrations. $5.00
MODERN MACHINE SHOP TOOLS; THEIR CON- STRUCTION, OPERATION, AND MANIPULATION. By
W. H. VANDERVOORT. A work of 555 pages and 673 illustra- tions, describing in every detail the construction, operation, and manipulation of both Hand and Machine Tools. Includes chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, ream- ers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers, and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding ma- chines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing, belting and transmission machinery; useful data and tables.
$1.00
THE MODERN MACHINIST. By JOHN T. USHER. This book might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a variety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas to many mechanics from the superintendent down to the man at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to any machin- ist's library and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult job is to be done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or plan- ing, as they are all treated in a practical manner. Fifth edition. 320 pages, 250 illustrations. $2.50
MODERN MECHANISM. Edited by PARK BENJAMIN. A practical treatise on machines, motors and the transmissi®n of power, being a complete work and a supplementary volume to Appleton's Cyclopedia of Applied Mechanics. Deals solely with the principal and most useful advances of the past few years. 959 pages containing over 1,000 illustrations; bound in half morocco. $1.00
MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION. By
HOKXER. This book describes and illustrates the Millir chine and its work in such a plain, clear, and forceful mannc r, and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the up-to-date machinist, student, or mechanical engineer can not alTord to do without the valuable information which it coi It describes not only the early murhines of this class, but notes their gradual d< i:ito the splendid machines of the
preset t ruction of the A
• rial feutr 1 by pro:
manufacturers, American and foreign. 304 pages, 300 illustra- tions. Sl.oo
•' SHOP KINKS." r GRIMSTIAW. This si
special methods of do;: »us kinds, :u
cost of production. 11.. kinks from some of the la
shops in this country a sure to find
some that apply to your work, and in such a way as to save time
400 pages. Fourth edition,
TOOLS FOR MACHINISTS AND WOOD WORKERS, INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS OF MEASUREMENT. By
JOSEPH G. HORNER. A practical treatise of 340 pages, fully illustrated and comprising a general description and ciassiLca- tion of cutting tools and tool angles, allied cutting tools for machinists and woodworkers; shearing tools; scraping tools; saws; milling cutters; drilling and boring tools; taps and dies; punches and hammers; and the hardening, tempering and grinding of these tools. Tools for measuring and testing work, including standards of measurement; surface plates; levels; surface gauges; dividers; calipers; verniers; micrometers; snap, cylindrical and limit gauges; screw thread, wire and reference gauges, indicators, templets, etc. $3.50
MANUAL TRAINING
ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By T GUIS ROUILLION. The only book that gives just the information needed by all interested in manual training, regarding buildings, equipment and supplies. 'Shows exactly what is needed for all grades of the wpi /c from the Kindergarten to the High and Nor- mal School. Gives itemized lists of everything needed and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy supplies.
$1.50
MARINE ENGINEERING
MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. By DR. G. BAUER, LESLIE S. ROBERTSON, and S. BRYAN DONKIN. This work is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; while the character of its plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without reproach. The illustrations are careful reproductions from actual working drawings, with some well-executed photographic views of completed engines and boilers. $9.00 net
MINING
*ORE DEPOSITS OF SOUTH AFRICA WITH A CHAPTER ON HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. By J. P. JOHN- SON. This book gives a condensed account of the ore-deposits at present known in South Africa. It is also intended as a guide to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology and some mining experience are necessary in order to under- stand this work. With these qualifications, it will materially assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences and, so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to form some idea of the possibilities of any they may find.
Among the chapters given are: Titaniferous and Chromif- erous Iron Oxides — Nickel — Copper — Cobalt — Tin — Molyb- denum— Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — I r o n — Hints to Prospectors. Illustrated. $2.00
PRACTICAL COAL MINING. By T. H. COCKIN. An im- portant work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustrations, com- plete with practical details, which will intuitively impart to the reader, not only a general knowledge of the principles of coal mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. The treatise is positively up to date in every instance, and should be in the hands of every colliery engineer, geologist, mine operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others whp are in- terested in or connoted with the industry,
PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY OF MINING. By T. H.
BYROM. A practical work for the use of all preparing for ex- aminations in mining or qualifying for colliery managers' cer- tificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place clearly before the reader useful and authoritative data which will render him valuable assistance in his studies. The only work of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining en- gineers, colliery managers, and all others who are specially in- terested in the present-day treatment of mining problems. 160 pages. Illustrated. $2.00
MISCELLANEOUS
BRONZES. Henley's Twentieth Century Receipt Book con- tains many practical formulas on bronze casting, imitation bronze, bronze polishes, renovation of bronze. See page 24 lor full description of this book. $3.00
EMINENT ENGINEERS. By D WIGHT GODDARD. Every- one who appreciates the effect of such great inventions as the Steam Engine, Steamboat, Locomotive, Sewing Machine, Steel Working, and other fundamental discoveries, is interested in knowing a little about the men who made them and their achieve- ments.
Mr. Goddard has selected thirty-two of the world's engineers who have contributed most largely to the advancement of our civilization by mechanical means, giving only such facts as are of general interest and in a way which appeals to all, whether mechanics or not. 280 pages, 35 illustrations. $1.£0
LAWS OF BUSINESS, By THEOPHILUS PARSONS, LL.D. The Best Book for Business Men ever Published. Treats clearly of Contracts, Sales, Notes, Bills of Exchange, Agency, Agree- ment, Stoppage in Transitu, Consideration, Limitations, Leases, Partnership, Executors, Interest, Hotel Keepers, Fire and Life Insurance, Collections, Bonds, Frauds, Receipts, Patents, Deeds Mortgages, Liens, Assignments, Minors, Married Women, Arbi- tration, Guardians, Wills, etc. Three Hundred Approved Forms are given. Every Business Man should have a copy of this book for ready reference. The book is bound in full sheep, and Con- tains 864 Octavo Pages. Our special price. $3. GO
PATTERN MAKING
PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. BARROWS. This is a very complete and entirely practical treatise on the subject of oattern making, illustrating pattern work in wo< metal. From its pages you are taught just what you si know about pattern making. It contains a detailed descr of the materials used by pattern makers, also the tools, both those for hand use, and the more interesting machine tools; hav- nplete chapters on The Band Saw, The Buzz Saw, and The Lathe. Individxial patterns of many different kinds are fully illustrated and d< i the mounting of metal patterns on
plates for molding machines is included. $3.00
PERFUMERY
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by G. U. Uiscox. The most valuable Techno-Chemical Receipt Book published. Contains over 10,000 practical Receipts many of which will prove of special value to the perfumer, a mine of in- formation, up to date in every respect. Cloth, 83.00; half morocco. See page 34 for full description of this book, $4,00
tf
PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. By G. W.
ASKINSON, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of value to the Perfumer. Complete directions for making handkerchief per- fumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity, and wholesale manufacture. A book of general, as well as profes- sional interest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and perfume manufacturer, but also of the general public. Third edition. 312 pages. Illustrated. $3.00
PLUMBING
MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M.
STARBUCK. The author of this book, Mr. R. M. Starbuck, is one of the leading authorities on plumbing in the United States. The book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has been adopted and used as a reference book by the United States Government, in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto Rico and the Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United States and Canada.
It gives Connections, Sizes and Working Data for All Fixtures and Groups of Fixtures. It is helpful to the Master Plumber in Demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It gives the Mechanic and Student quick and easy Access to the best Modern Plumbing Practice. Suggestions for Estimating Plumb- ing Construction are contained in its pages. This book repre- sents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice, and should be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer
(~nd plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute on this nportant feature of construction. 400 octavo pages, fully lustrated by 55 full-page engravings. $4.00
RUBBER
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by GARD- NER D. Hiscox. Contains upward of 10,000 practical receipts, including among them formulas on artificial rubber. See page for full description of this book. $3.00
RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION [>F INDIA RUBBER. By T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. This book gives full details on all points, treating in a concise and simple manner the elements of nearly everything it is necessary to under- stand for a commencement in any branch of the India Rubber anufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps, mall Articles of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composi- tion, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of Sheet Rubber, Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solutions, Cements, Blackings, Renovating Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes, etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and Miscellaneous Notes, with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection, and Manufac- ture of India Rubber are set forth in a. manner designed to be readily understood, the explanations being plain and simple. f)eeonc| edition, 144 .pages, Illustrate^ $1.0(j
IQ
SAWS
SAW FILING AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By
ROBERT GRIMSHAW. A practical hand book on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for those who have charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do their own filing, as it deals with the proper shape and pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for gumming, setting, and filing, and is a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. New edition, revised and enlarged. Illustrated. 81.00
SCREW CUTTING
THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. By COLVIN and STABEL. This clears up many of the mysteries of thread- cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catch- ing threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and several tables. 35 cents
SHEET METAL WORK
DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V.
WOODWORTH. A new book by a practical man, for those who wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals. It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable suggestions. 83.00
PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTUR- ING IN PRESSES. By J. V. WOODWORTH. A work of 500 pages and illustrated by nearly 700 engravings, being an en- cyclopedia of die-making, punch-making, die sinking, sheet- metal working, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending, forming, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet- metal parts and also articles of other materials in machine tools.
$4.00
STEAM ENGINEERING
AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W.
E. CRANE. A new book by a well-known author. Begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. Contains the result of years of practical experience in all sorts of engine rooms and gives exact information that cannot be found else- where. It's plain enough for practical men and yet of value to those high in the profession. Has a complete examination for a license. S3. 00
" BOILER ROOM CHART. By GEO. L. FOWLER. A Chart — size 14 x 28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. Water tube boilers, ordinary grates and mechanical stokers, feed water heaters and pumps comprise the equipment. The various parts are shown broken or removed, so that the internal construetion is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed at the sides. This chart is really a dictionary of the boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being given. It is educational — worth many times its i ' *'•> i:eiit«»
ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By RpBERT GRIM- SHAW. Tells how to erect, adjust, and run the principal steam engines in use in the United States. The work is of a handy size for the pocket. To young engineers this catechism will be of great value, especially to those who may be preparing to go forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and to engineers generally it will be of no little service as they will find in this volume more really practical and useful information than is to be found anywhere else within a like compass. 387 pages. Sixth edition. 82. OO
ENGINE TESTS AND BOILER EFFICIENCIES. By
J. BUCHETTI. This work fully describes and illustrates the method of testing the power of steam engines, turbine and explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evapora- tive power of fuels. Combustion of fuel and chimney draft; with formulas explained or practically computed. 255 pages, 179 illustrations. 83.00
HORSE POWER CHART. Shows the horse power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the cylinder diameter or stroke; the steam pressure or cut-off; the revolutions, or whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calculations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents
MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. By GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a complete and practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen dealing with the care and management of Boilers, Engines, Pumps, Superheated Steam, Refrigerating Machinery, Dyna- mos, Motors, Elevators, Air Compressors, and all other branches with which the modern Engineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 Questions with their Answers on Steam and Electrical Engineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are included. 487 pages, 405 engravings. $3.00
STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW. This volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question and answer principle; but it contains formulas and worked-out answers for all the Steam problems that appertain to the opera- tion and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of various valves and valve gear with their principles of operation are given. 34 tables that are indispensable to every engineer and fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to become master of his calling are within its pages. It is a most valuable instructor in the service of Steam Engineering. Leading en- gineers have recommended it as a valuable educator for the be- ginner as well as a reference book for the engineer. Sixteenth edition. $3.0fl
STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By COLVIN- CHENEY. A practical pocket book for the Steam Engineer. Shows how to work the problems of the engine room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horse-power of engines and boilers; area of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam tables; has a dictionary of engineering terms. Puts you onto all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure around a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of engines; factor of safety; and i.ooi other things; and everything is plain and simple not the hardest way to figure, but the easiest
STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION
PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT-WATER HEATING AND VENTILATION. By A. G. KING. This book is the standard and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared for the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot-water heating and ventilation. It is an original and exhaustive work. Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with "Tricks of the Trade" for shop use. Rules and data for esti- mating radiation and cost and such tables and information as make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam, hot-water heating and ventilation. It describes all the principal systems of steam, hot-water, vacuum, vapor and vacuum- vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of ^lot-water circulation, including chapters on up-to-date methods of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and venti- lation.
You should secure a copy of this book, as each chapter con- tains a mine of practical information. 367 pages, 300 detailed engravings. $3.00
STEAM PIPES
STEAM PIPES: THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUC- TION. By WM. H. BOOTH. The work is well illustrated in regard to pipe joints, expansion offsets, flexible joints, and self-contained sliding joints for taking up the expansion of long pipes. In fact, the chapters on the flow of Steam and expansion of pipes are most valuable to all steam fitters and users. The pressure strength of pipes and method of hanging them is well treated and illustrated. Valves and by-passes are fully illustrated and described, as are also flange joints and their proper proportions. Exhaust heads and separators. One of the most valuable chapters is that on superheated steam and the saving of steam by insulation with the various kinds of felting and other materials, with comparison tables of the loss of heat in thermal units from naked and felted steam pipes. Contains 187 pages. $2.00
STEEL
AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. By E. R. MARKHAM. The standard work on hardening, tempering and annealing steel of all kinds. A practical book for the machinist, tool maker or superintendent. Shows just how to secure best results in any case that comes along. How to make and use furnaces and case harden; how to handle high-speed steel and how to temper for all classes of work. $2.50
HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND FORGING OF STEEL. By J. V. WoomvoKTii. A new
containing special directions for the successful hardening and ring of all steel tools. Milling ctxtters, taps, thread dies, reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies, and all kinds" of sheet-metal working tools, shear blades, saws, fine cutlery and metal-cutting tools of all descriptions, as well as for all implements of steel both large and small, the simplest, and most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are presented. The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be adapt. isely presented, and their treatment for work-
ing under different conditions explained, as are also the special methods for the hardening and tempering of special bra-nd*.
320 pages, 250 illustrations, I3«00
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by GARD- NER D. Hiscox. The most valuable techno-chemical Receipt book published, giving, among other practical receipts, methods of annealing, coloring, tempering, welding, plating, polishing and cleaning steel. See page 24 for full description of this book.
83.00
WATCH MAKING
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE- CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by GARDNER D. Hiscox. Contains upwards of 10,000 practical formulas including many watchmakers' formulas. $3.00
WATCH-MAKER'S HANDBOOK. By CLAUDIUS SAUNIER. No work issued can compare with this book for clearness and completeness. It contains 498 pages and is intended as a work- shop companion for those engaged in Watchmaking and allied Mechanical Arts. Nearly 250 engravings and fourteen plates are included. $3.00
WIRELESS TELEPHONES
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By JAMES ERSKINE-MURRAY. This work is free from elaborate details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap- ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro- duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations — Glossary of Technical Words. Cloth. 81.00
Henley's Twentieth Century
Book of
Recipes, Formulas and Processes
Edited by GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E. Price $3.00 Cloth Binding $4.00 Half Morocco Binding
Contains over 10,000 Selected Scientific, Chemical,
Technological and Practical Recipes and
Processes, including Hundreds of
So-Called Trade Secrets
for Every Business
THIS book of 800 pages is the most complete Book of Recipes ever published, giving thousands of recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles forevery-day use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas and Secret Processes are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making money and is just the book everyone should have at his command.
The pages are filled with matters of intense interest and immeasurable practical value to the Photographer, the Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, Pastes, Cements and Mucilages, the Physician, the Druggist, the Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, the Machinist, the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner, the Chiropodist, the Manufacturer of Chemical Novelties and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, the Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler, the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy- man, the Paper Maker, the Metal Worker, the Soap Maker, the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general. A book to which you may turn with confidence that you will find what you are looking for. A mine of informa- tion up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense number of formulas that every one ought to have that are not found in any other work.
SIXTH EDITION JUST PUBLISHED
MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC
By COLVIN- CHENEY 145 Pages Price, 50c. Bound in Cloth
THIS is an arithmetic of the things you have to do with daily. It tells you plainly about : how to find areas of figures — how to find surface or volume of balls or spheres — handy ways for calcula- ting— about compound gearing— cutting screw threads on any lathe — drilling for taps — speeds of drills, taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling cutters, etc. — all about the Metric system with conversion tables— ^ properties of metals — strength of bolts and nuts-- decimal equivalent of an inch. All sorts of machine shop figuring and 1001 other things, any one of which ought to be worth more than the price of this book to »u, as it saves you the trouble of bothering the is.
This is one of the most popular Mechanical books in print. It contains the greatest half a dollar's worth of information ever put between the two covers of a book. Treats on everything relating to Machine Shop figuring.
JUST PUBLISHED
GASOLINE~ENGINES
Their Operation, Use and Care.
BY A. HYATT VERRILL.
The Simplest, Latest and Most Comprehensive Popular work published on Gasoline Engines
320 PAGES. 150 ILLUSTRATIONS.
PRICE, $1.50.
Describing what the Gasoline Engine is; its con- struction and operation ; how to install it ; how to select it ; how to use it and how to remedy troubles encountered. Intended for Owners, Operator and Users of Gasoline Motors of all kinds.
This work fully describes and illustrates the various types of Gasoline Engines used in Motor Boats, Motor Vehicles and Stationary Work. The parts, accessories and appliances are de- scribed, with chapters on ignition, fuel, lubrica- tion, operation and engine troubles. Special attention is given to the care, operation and re- pair of motors with useful hints and suggestions on emergency repairs and make-shifts.
A complete glossary of technical terms and an alphabetically arranged table of troubles and their symptoms form most valuable and unique features of this manual. Nearly every illustra- tion in the book is original, having been made by the author. Every page is full of interest and value. A book which you cannot afford to be without.
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.,
132 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BRANCH OF THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW
«Y17'56
JUNl
SEP 11 me
OCT3 REC'D MAY l 0 1979
RECEIVED JUN 1
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DAVIS
3 1175016909270
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LIBRARY, BRANCH OF THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, DAVIS