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Science of Modern Horsemanship

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INCLUDING

Trick Training, how to Raise, Feed, Drive, and make Valu-
able Trotting or Work Horses, a Treatise on Shoeing,
Hints to Equestriennes, Jockey Tricks, &e., &e.

TOGETHER WITH

PRACTICAL RECIPES

TREATMENT OF DISEASES OF HORSES.

FOURTH BDITION—CAREFULLY REVISED.

PEORIA, ILL.: ‘

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& - GEO. M. STANCHFIELD, PUBLISHER. Z)
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TE ___ We want an agent in your vicinity for the sale of
e this book, and wouid be pleased to have you act as
such, the whole or a part of your time. These books have had an unpre-
cedented sale the past five years, are ably noticed by the newspapers and
sell readily to nearly every horse owner. As we employ no traveling
agents, we can offer extraordinary inducements to local agents, andif you
will take hold of the matter we will furnish you with books at the fol-

lowing rates:
' 100 Copies,...........--.- $25 CO
50 pi er mere 15.00
25 ne RE eitens caescues 8.00 —
Bs Seance chcetere 5.00

The retail price of the book is 75 cents per copy, but many agents in-
form us that they often get $1.00, but providing you only get 75 cents,
you will readily see that you clear the handsome sum of $50.00 on every
one hundred copies you sell. Trusting you will think favorably of this,
(and go right to work among your friends), we hope to hear from you again.

Address, G. M. STANCHFIELD, Publisher,
PEORIA, ILLINOIS.

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THE SCIENCE OF MODERN HORSEMANSHIP.

Pet iw Bee Y Oo) Ev

OF

HORSE TRAINING,

INCLUDING

Trick Training, how to Raise, Feed, Drive, and make
Valuable Trotting or Work Horses, a Treatise
on Shoeing, Hints to Equestriennes,
Jockey Tricks, &c., &c.

TOGETHER WITH THE
EXPERIENCES OF A LIFETIME,

IN THE

Treatment of Diseases of Horses,

Contained in Plain, Practical Recipes,
BY AN
EMINENT HORSE TAMER AND VETERINARY SURGEON.

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PEORIA, ILL.: NG af ee
PUBLISHED BY G. M. oraneammr a> median aon
1874.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by
_ GEO. M, STANCHFIELD, jee
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

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PREBACE..

IN presenting the fourth edition of this popular work for public favor,
we cannot forego the opportunity of acknowledging our obligations to the
owners of horses for the very liberal and flattering testimonials of their
approbation. Encouraged by this favorable reception, and the rapid sale
of the first three editions, with the demand still increasing, we feel under
obligations to issue this, the fourth edition, in order to supply the
demand.

About twenty pages of new and valuable disclosures on the care and
management of this noble animal, together with numerous rare recipes
for the curing of diseases, have been added, making it now the most reli-
able book extant.

The subject of Horsemanship is so closely allied and identified with
all man’s interest, that everything that can be said to promote a reform
in that particular cannot but commend itself to every one interested in
that noble animal; and who is there that isnot? For the most common
transactions of every-day life cannot be consummated without calling to
his aid. This book is not presented to the public asan unexceptionable
treatise on the Horse. It is merely a plain, practical exposition of the
best system of Horsemanship that to-day is extant; one that has met with
the approbation and commendation of the best horsemen of the age, and
one that has received a patronage vouchsafed to no other system. It is
merely to gratify a desire expressed by hundreds who have young colts
and contrary horses, and have no easy method of subjugating them; and
yet every move with the horse isso plain and intelligible that any one
can take held of and manage the wildest colt or the most vicious horse.
While we beg from the scrutinizing public a charitable criticism for any
shortcoming that may be discovered, we feel great confidence that the
work will meet with a hearty approval from horsemen generally, and
prove a valuable auxiliary in bringing about that much-needed reform in
the proper management and control of the most noble of the brute creation.

THE PUBLISHER.

THE BORSE.

a a pe

His Origin, History, and Habits.

HE reduction of the horse to a domesticated state is the

greatest acquisition from the animal world ever made
by the art and industry of man. The history of this noble
quadruped, as regards his origin, or natural locality, and the
period of his first subjugation, is involved in obscurity. We
learn from the Sacred Writings that he is of Eastern origin;
and they render the inference very probable, that the Egyp-
tians were the first who reduced him to servitude.

The earliest notice of the horse occurs six hundred and
fifty years after the Deluge, when the Egyptians ‘‘ brought
their cattle to Joseph, who gave them bread in exchange
for horses and for their flocks,’”’ &c. Very soon after, we read,
the venerable patriarch, Jacob, when dying in Egypt, address-
ing his sons, said: ‘‘ Dan shall be a serpent by the way, an
‘adder in the path, that biteth the horse’s heels, so that his
rider shall fall backward ;”’ and it is remarkable that this early
allusion to the horse refers to him as being ridden, and not as
drawing a chariot. When the body of Jacob was removed by
his son Joseph from Egypt to Canaan, for burial, we are told
that, ‘‘ there went up with him both chariots and horsemen.’’
It appears, then, from this notice, as well as from the employ-
ment of numerous chariots by Pharoah in pursuit of the Isra-
elites, and from the testimony of the earliest profane writers,
that the Egyptians first reduced the horse to obedience, it is to
their country, or, at least to those parts of Africa which were
in close connection with it, that we may reasonably look for
his primitive habitat. The long-admitted superiority of the
horses of Arabia is no evidence that they were originally
placed in that arid country ; and there is much reason to con-

6 HISTORY OF THE HORSE.

clude that it was not until a comparatively late period that the
Arabs used horses. At the time when Solomon was receiving
various treasures from Arabia, it was from Egyptonly that he
obtained his immense number of horses. Herodotus expressly
states that Xerxes obtained a portion of his cavalry from Ethi-
opia, and that he was joined by a body of native Indians,
some on horseback and others in war-chariots.

The primitive habits, contour, and color of the horse, ina
purely natural condition, cannot be said to be known with

certainty ; for it is highly probable that he has long ceased to—

existin such astate. Asthe wild horses which are now found
in various parts of the world appear to have sprung from a do-
mesticated stock, they afford no clue to the elucidation of the
points in question. The numerous herds of wild horses ex-
isting on the plains of Tartary do not appear to have been
indigenous to that country, and the still greater numbers
which inhabit South America are very clearly traced to the
horses which the Spaniards introduced into that part of our
continent from Europe; and old writers tell us that, when the
American Indians first saw a man on horseback, they thought
the man and the horse to be one and the same individual.

Horses differ in intelligence, disposition, and temper.
Those who profess to Know anything about them pay much
attention to the size, position, and motion of the ears. Horses
with rather small than large ears, placed not too far apart,
erect and quick in motion, indicate both breeding and spirit ;
and if a horse is in the frequent habit of carrying one ear for-
ward and the other backward, especially if he doesso ona
journey, he will generally possess both spirit and endurance.
The stretching of the ears in contrary directions shows that
he is attentive to everything that is passing around him ; and
while he is doing this, he cannot be much fatigued, nor likely
soon to become so.

The temper is more surely indicated by a motion of the ear
than of the eye; and an experienced observer of horses can tell
by the motion of their ears all that they think and mean.
When the horse lays his ears flat back upon his neck, and
keeps them so, he is most assuredly meditating mischief, and
the bystander should beware of his heels or his teeth. In
play, the ears will likewise be laid back, but not so decidedly,

STOR Y OR RAG HORSE. 7

nor so long; a quick change in their position, together with
the expression of the eye at the time, will distinguish between
playfulness and vice. The hearing of the horse is remarkably
acute; a thousand vibrations of the air, too slight to make any
impression on the human ear, are readily perceived by him.

The eye of the horse is also a pretty accurate index of his
temper; and experience has shown that, if much of the white
of the eye is seen, he is a dangerous one, ever slyly watching
for opportunities to do mischief; and the frequent backward
direction of the eye, when the white is most perceptible, is
only to give sure effect to the blow which he is about to aim.
But, though bold and intrepid, he knows how to govern and
how to check the natural vivacity and fire of his temper. He
not only yields to the hand, but seems to consult the inclina-
tion of his rider. Uniformly obedient to the impressions he
receives, he flies or stops, and regulates his motions entirely,
by his master’s will. In a measure, he renounces his very ex-
istence to the pleasures of man. He delivers up his whole
powers; he reserves nothing, and often dies rather than dis-
obey.

These are features in the character of the horse, the natural
qualities of which have been perfected by art, and trained with
care to the service of man. His education commences w ih
the loss of liberty, and is completed by restraint.

PNY Oa rs Al,

Nature of the Horse.

HE HORSE has no reasoning faculties beyond the lim-

its of his experience. Therefore we can reason with him
by acts alone. Literally, with the horse, acts speak louder
than words, and hence the absolute importance of commenc-
ing every move with the horse right, for by our acts he learns.
Secondly, early impressions are strong, both in the human
family and with the horse, and seldom, if ever, are entirely
erased from memory’s tablet.

Who is there in the human family that does not well
remember the first impressions of his boyhood days? and as
Wwe journey on through life, what a controlling influence they
exert over us. Just so with the horse, Hence the great im-
portance of having his first impressions of such.a nature as to
convince him not only of man’s superiority, but to satisfy him
that man is his best friend. Obtain, by a systematic course of
handling, notonly supreme power over him, but learn him also
to repose trust and confidence in you, and then never betray it.
No animal has memory equal to that of the horse, and none
will reciprocate a kindness or resent an injury sooner. We
hold that man, being, on account of his intellectual resources,
superior to all other animals, is, and. has a right to be, at the
head of all animal creation, for he can adopt means to over-
come the strength of the horse, or even use ifagainst himself.

Necessity of Honesty and Kindness.

You must treat the horse kindly ; you must obtain his con-
_ fidence, and then never abuse it; deal honestly with him;
never lie to him. He judges you by youracts. Neverask him

10 HOW TO TRAIN.

to do anything without you are in a position to compel obedi-
ence (if he has a correct idea of what you want), and then
when the obedience is rendered, reward him for it. Be prompt,
but never deceive him.

Familiarizing to Objects of Fear.

As we are taught, there is no effect without a cause, and as
the horse becomes fearless and confident, so far as he under-
stands there is no cause for fear, we should remove the cause of
mischief as much as possible by complying with those laws of
his nature by which he examines an object, or determines upon
its innocence or harm. Therefore let him examine and smell
of such things as are likely to frighten him, such as a log by
the roadside, an umbrella, buffalo robe or other frightful object.
His nose is his fingers.

Use Intelligent Means.

The horse should be treated with kindness and considera-
tion; you have aright to curb and restrain his spirit, but not
to subdue it; he has no more natural spirit than it is proper he
should have, and the great‘difficulty with all theoriesof horse-
manship that have been promulgated to the world is, that they
have been founded upon one idea of subjugation alone. Subju-
gation is not teaching; you have aright to restrain, to make
him conform to your will. But you must also teach him what
you want him todo. To hitch up the wild colt and say ‘‘whoa”
to him, without having first taught him the word ‘‘ whoa,”’ is
unreasonable in the extreme. ’Tis true, we cannot handle the
wild colt that is actuated by fear, as we can the old horse that
is actuated by vengeance; with the one we are all mildness,
whereas we take hold of the other in a manner that satisfies
him that there is to be no partnership arrangement about it,
but we are to have it our way all the time.

To Halter a Wild Colt.

Provide yourself with a pole, a piece of edging, a rake-
handle or anything else of the kind; cut a notch in one end,
and about seven inches from this end raise a few chips from
the opposite end of the stick. Take a common rope halter,
draw out the stale through the loop so that that portion will

HOW TO TRAIN. 1t

* drop down eighteen or twenty inches; now hang the head-
piece on the notches on the end of the stick, holding the end
in your hand with the stick; the halter now hangs upon the
stick, so spread that you can put it over the colt’s ears without
touching any part of his head. You now approach the colt,
swinging the halter, which immediately attracts his attention,
and he will reach out his nose to smell it. While he is smell-
ing it you cautiously raise it over his head until back of his
ears; then turn the stick half round and the halter will drop
upon his head; now take the end of the stick and shove up
the loop so as to draw up the slack, and your colt is haltered ;
and he is not frightened, and you are not hurt.

To Learn the Colt to Lead.

Step back on a line with his hips, and say, ‘‘Come here, sir,’’
and give him asmart, sharp pull, which will swing him round
to you; then step to the opposite side and give him the same
side pull, and say, ‘‘Come here, sir.’’ If he should not pull
easily enough, as soon as*you can soothe him enough to ap-
proach him, fasten up one fore foot with a short strap; and
then you can pull him the more readily either side. Never
pull him straight ahead, until after you have learned him to
come promptly either side, for sideways you can pull him, and
straight ahead you cannot. Do not let him know his strength,
for he has no reasoning powers to say, ‘‘ You can pull me side-
ways, but straight ahead you cannot.’’ Should he sulk after a
few trials, and refuse to come either way, take a short hold of
the halter with the left hand, while with the right grasp the
tail firmly, and whirl him round until he acts dizzy; then
whirl him the other way. This convinces him you can handle
him just as you please, The moment he follows you, pat him
for it. ;

To Handle the Colt’s Feet. .

Commence gently to pick up his feet, and if he resists you,
treat as follows: If a fore foot, stand by the side of your colt
and throw over his back a light strap, and tie it around his leg
loosely, so that it willslip down to his fetlock joint; then take
up his foot with the strap, and keep closeto his side until after
he is through struggling ; then commence to soothe the foot

12 HOW TO TRAIN.

with your hands, and pound upon ita very little. Ina short
time he will suffer you to handle it as you please. If a hind
foot, take the fore foot in your left hand while with your right
you pass the end of the strap around the hind leg below the
fetlock. Now pullupon the strap, which will cause the foot to
be drawn forward. This he will resist by kicking, but he soon
finds resistance useless, and will give you his foot; then take
it into your hands and soothe as described for the forefoot. If
a more thorough treatmentis found necessary, use him accord-
ing to directions laid down elsewhere for ‘‘the horse bad to.
shoe.”’

To Ride the Wild Colt.

Stand upon the near side of your colt and throw over his
back a piece of web or strap, and fasten to his right fore foot
below the fetlock joint; then take up his foot and hold it fora
few minutes, until he ceases struggling; then quietly let him
have it, and lead him along a few steps and say ‘‘whoa,”’ and
at the same time you say ‘‘whoa,’’ @raw up the strap, which
makes him stop, for it puts him on three legs. After you have
led him a little ways in this way, stand by his side and take
up his foot, wind your hand in the strap, and commence to
jump up and down at his side a few times, keeping hold of the
foot; then carefully jump on him with your breast, and slide
back again; then, while holding up the foot, jump quietly on
his back. Now let down his foot, and if he shows the least
disposition to stir, take up his foot and drop it and take it again.
The idea is that he cannot think of two things at once, and the
moment he thinks of throwing you off (which you detect by
the drawing of the muscles of his back), you take his foot and
change his attention to that, and his back is all right. This
plan will ride any colt or horse.

To Teach a Colt to Follow under the Whip.

Buckle around your colt an ordinary surcingle rather loose-
ly ; take a piece of web ora long strap, about fifteen or even
twenty feetin length. Take the strap and pass it through the
surcingle and fasten it to the colt’s left fore foot; now take
hold of the strap about six feet from where it passes through
the surcingle, and, placing your whip over the colt’s back,

HOW TORPRAIN. 13

commence to tap him on the right side of the head very gently.
If he turns his head toward you, and looks or makes a step
toward you, stop and pat him; if he attempts to leave you,
take his foot and let him goon three legs, running around you;
the moment he stops, step up to him again, place your whip
over his back and repeat, and in a very few moments he will
turn towards you, the moment you place your whip on the op-
posite side. Then you can take off the strap, and he will fol-
low you readily, but be careful and not whip when he is turn-
ing toward you. Keep him in difficulty with the whip when-
ever he turns his head from you; but the moment he turns
toward you reward him, and he will soon learn there is no
peace except by you; and then practice will soon make him
perfect. The same plan breaks the wild steer to ‘‘ haw ’’ and
‘foee’? under the whip.

The War Bridle.

This is one of the most powerful means of control in the
management of the horse that is known. The War Bridle is
simply a cord of about the size of a common bed-cord or
a clothes-line. It should be of cotton, and made of fine yarn,
or what is known as fine thread cotton cord, about three-
eighths of an inch in diameter, used extensively for clothes-
lines.

Take a cord of the above description —in length about fif-
teen feet; tie one end intoa hard knot, just as you would to
prevent its raveling ; now tie another knot about ten inches,
or a little more, from the one on the end, but before you draw
it tight put through the knot on the end. You now have a
loop that will not slip. This loop should be just large enough
to slip over the under jaw of the horse you wish to train. Put
the loop over the lower jaw, then, while standing on the near
side, take the cord in the left hand and bring it over the neck
by passing the left hand under the neck to the opposite side,
toward the mane; now bring the right hand over the neck,
and take the cord from the left and pass back to the loop and
put through from the top side, until the part over the neck is
drawn down like a check rein, now take hold of the end of
this rein and you will find you have a means of power in it
that makes the strongest horse almost a plaything in your

14 HOW. TO TEEAEN;

hands. You must use the bridle with judgment, for in the
proper use of it consists its great value. In handling the colt
with it you must use the utmost mildness, whereas many who
have witnessed my operations, and then commenced subse-
quently to use it, have made a little resistance on the part of
the colt an excuse to use it in the most severe manner, until the
eolt becomes so desperate with pain as to be entirely reckless
and regardless of the utmost efforts; but in the management
of the old horse you can take hold of him as if you were deter-
mined that any resistance on his part would be entirely useless,
Step to one side of the colt and say, ‘‘Come here, sir,’’ pulling
a very little on the bridle, just enough to bring his head toward
you, and repeat for a few times; each time that he comes
_ toward you at the word, reward him with a pat on the neck ;
and if he doesn’t stir, pull him with the bridle. Any colt or
horse can be made to follow youinavery few minutes with this
bridle. .

To Teach the Colt to Back.

Put on the War Bridle, stand directly in front of your horse,
having hold of the cord — about twenty inches from the head
— with your left hand, resting the right on the cord or bridle
about four or five inches from the head. You willsay, ‘‘ Back,
sir,’’ and at the same time press down and back with your right
hand steadily on the cord until, by way of relieving himself,
he will step back one step; let up on the cord and pat him.
That teaches him whatyou want. Then repeat for afew times,
and after you have given him the idea and the motion, you
can then press him back sharply with the cord, and in a few
minutes more, at the word. This will never fail to teach the
colt or bad horse to back.

Bitting the Colt.

All you can possibly accomplish with the old-fashioned bit-
ting bridle I can accomplish with my bridle in forty minutes,
and that is to teach the horse to hold down his head, hold up
his head, and to the right and to the left, at the touch of the
rein. If nature has not designed the horse to have a high,
stylish head and carriage, no art of man can alter it, and the
old-fashioned practice of straining up the neck in an unnatural

HOW TO TRAIN. 15

position, and leaving it there for hours, nine times out of ten
results in a heavy-headed lugger on the bits. Care should be
taken when first bitting the colt to have the tongue under the
bit, for if he gets in the habit of carrying it over he will hang
his tongue out of his mouth.

How to Make a Bitting Bridle.

Take your cord, previously used, and fix a loop upon the
other end, just like the one used to go over the jaw, only big
enough to go over his neck, and fit down rather tight where the
collaris worn; now bring your cord forward, and put it through
the loop around the neck; now pull upon this cord and the
head will be drawn back to the breast. You are now prepared
to bit; simply pull upon the cord a little, and as soon as he
curbs his head well, relieve him —that teaches him it is there
you want it. When you want to raise his head, lift quickly on
the cord, and you elevate his head finely. You should not bit
over five minutes at a time, and then put it away, and after a
little resume it, and in forty minutes’ time, dividing each bit-
ting into five minutes each, you can bit your colt well.

Training to Harness.

You should be very careful the first time you undertake to
harness your colt, to see that the harness fits perfectly well, and
that it is perfectly safe. Many accidents have been the result
of such carelessness. Then, with the aid of the bridle to re-
prove him, if he resists the putting of the harness on him,
harness him, and after you have moved him about a little, at-
tach to him, before you undertake to hitch him to the sulky,
what I shall call a foot strap, which is simply a piece of web-
bing, or a piece of strap or rope long enough to be fastened to
one of his forward feet, and then run over the belly-band of
the harness, and then outside of the tugs back to the buggy or
sulky, which you hold in your hand asa life insurance or third
rein. If he attempts to run away, pull upon the strap, which
throws him upon three feet instantly, and he has to stop. If
he attempts to run back, the same remedy stops him. If he
attempts to kick you, attract his attention forward instantly,
and at the same time make it impossible for him to kick. The
moment you notice any disposition to kick, take his foot, which

e

16 HOW TO TRAIN.

disconcerts him, attracts his attention away from his hind
* parts, while it is impossible for him to kick; but do not take
his foot and hold it, but keep snatching and letting him have
it, and you will soon break him up of the habit. This is one
of the most powerful means of control ever yet devised, because
you beat him while right in the act.

Objects of Fear.

Never whip your horse for becoming frightened at any
Object by the roadside; for if he sees a stump, a log, or a heap
of tan bark in the road, and while he is eyeing it carefully, and
about to pass it, you strike him with the whip, it is the log or
the stump, or the tan bark that is hurting him, in his way of
reasoning, and the next time he will act more frightened.
Give him time to examine and smell of ali these objects, and
use the war bridle to assist you in bringing him carefully to
these objects of fear. Bring all objects, if possible to his nose,
and let him smell of them, and then you can commence to
gentle him with them.

Driving.

In teaching a young horse to drive well, do uot be ina hurry
to see how fast he can trot. Keep each pace clear and distinct
from.each other; that is, in walking, make him walk, and do
not allow him to trot; while trotting, be equally careful that
he keeps steadily at his pace, and do notallow him to slack into
awalk. The reins, while driving, should be kept snug; and
when pushed to the top of his speed, keep him well in Gand,
that he may learn to bear well upon the bit, so that when going
at a high rate of speed he can be held at his pace; but do not
allow him to pull too hard, for that is not only unpleasant, but
makes it often difficult to manage him.

To Stand when getting into a Carriage.

Take your horse on the barn floor and throw a strap over
his back and fasten it to the right fore foot; lead him along,
and say ‘‘whoa,’’ at the same time pull down on-the strap,
which throws him on three feet and makes him stop suddenly.
This is the best way known to teach ‘‘whoa’’— though you
ean put on the war bridle and say ‘‘whoa,’’ and give hima
sharp jerk; that will stop him about as soon as the Strap to the

HOW TORT AEN: Li

foot. Then put him in a harness with the foot strap, as direct-
ed under the head of ‘‘ Training to Harness,’ and drive him
up to the door. The moment he undertakes to move, take his
foot and say ‘‘whoa.’”’ Getinto yourcarriage and getout again;
rattle the thills; make all the noise in getting in and out you
can; give him to understand, by snatching his foot each time
he moves, that he must stand until you tell him to go; and
after a few times you will havea horse that will stand perfectly
still while the whole family enters the carriage.
: Balky Horses.

When the horse balks in the harness, it is not from any un-
willingness to perform his duty, but from some confusion or
excitement arising from mismanagement. He is willing and
anxious to go, but too eager or high-spirited to make the steady
push against the collar necessary to move the load. The usual
plan is to commence to curse and lash, A volume might be
written on the importance of keeping cool on all such oc-
casions. Frequently, simply going to their heads and moving
them gently against their collars to the right and left evenly,
giving them time to get cool, and they will start of their own
accord. Sometimes taking up one fore foot in your hand, and
giving the horse a sharp press against the shoulder, to one side,
will cause him to step, and start him. But if the habit is
firmly fixed you will have to resort to the following means,
which will take a few lessons, and thereby you will break up
the habit.

Take your balky horse in the barn, or on a piece of green-
sward; take him by the head and tail, and whirl him around
until he is quite dizzy ; and if you become dizzy before he does,
let him whirl himself as follows: ‘Tie the hair of the tail into
ahard knot; then take the halter strap in your left hand, hold-
ing the tail in your right, pass the halter strap through the
hair, above the knot, and draw up as short as the horse will
bear without falling down, tying it quickly. This will bring
the horse in the form of a baif-circle— his head fast to his tail
by the halter strap. Your object is to break up his confidence
in himself; and nothing on earth —no process you can subject
him to, will do it half so soon as this. Should he not run
round very freely, touch him behind with the whip, which

18 HOW TO TRAIN.

will cause him to move sharply. Simply keep him moving
until he falls down by becoming dizzy, which he will do inside
of a minute and a-half. Let him lie a few minutes; then tie
him in the opposite direction, and continue until he falls or is
unable to move. Then put on your war bridle and give a few
sharp jerks to the right and left, and show him that you can
handle him by the head as well as by the tail; and train him
until he will spring to the right and left, and straight forward,
when you ask him to,and then you are in ashape to put him in
harness. If he refuses to draw, step in front of him with the
bridle on, and fetch him either way first, and then straight
ahead; and in a short time you will work it out of him. If at
any time your horse should become warm, put him away and
let him cool. You will gain time by it, for when sulky and
heated he is in no shape to learn.

Kicking in Harness.

Kicking in harness is regarded as one of the most dangerous
habits that the horse has. How often do we hear the remark
made by dealers, ‘‘I care not what he will do if he will not
kick.” Itis generally the result in the first instance of gross
carelessness and bad management. The habit in the colt,
frequently, is formed by suffering the straps to dangle about
his flanks and legs, which frightens him and makes him kick,
as a matter of self-defense. In old horses the habit usually is
caused by some mishap while in harness, such as hitching
him too near, so that his heels touches the cross-bar, or by a
bolt of the thills coming out and letting the wagon on his heels.

This fear must be broken up by habituating the horse to
being touched, and made to bear the various causes of mischief
without the ability to resist; when he, becoming convinced
that there is no harm to be apprehended from them, will give
up the habit. Your main remedy is the foot strap. Put on
the foot strap, and as the horse moves off, say gently ‘‘ whoa,’’
and instantly pull upon the strap, which throws him upon
three legs; and so continue until he will stop instantly when
‘‘whoa’’ is called. Then tempt the horse to kick, and the
next instant take his foot. Put the strap between his hind
legs and dangle it all around him; use behind him any object
that he is afraid of, and for the first few times in harness have
the foot strap on, as the third rein.

HOW TO TRAIN. 19

Kicking in the Stall.

Many horses will kick in the stable as soon as the lights
are put out and men gone; they merely kick at the standings
and stall posts, with what intention we never could find out;
idleness, we conclude, first induced them to do it, and habit
induces them to keep itup. It is a bad trick, for it not only
keeps them from their rest, but disturbs other horses. A small
chain, ten or fourteen inches long, buckled with a small strap
in the hollow of the pastern, usually stops them. If it does
not, put a bridle on the horse, and then tie a rope to each side
of the bit, run them through the surcingle, then fasten to
each foot; whenever the horse attempts to kick he jerks his
mouth violently, and soon learns to stand quiet. This rarely
fails, but the arrangement should not be left on at night for
fear of accidents. If neither will do, use the surcingle, with
a three-inch ring slipped upon it, and hanging beneath the
animal. Then take a short strap with a ring attached, and
buckle around the forward foot below the fetlock. To the ring
in the short strap attach a strong cord, which bring up and
pass through the ring in the surcingle; then return to the foot
and run through the ring in the short strap; then pass over
the belly band and tie to the hind leg below the fetlock. With
this attachment on each side, the moment a horse kicks he
pulls his forward feet from under and trips himself upon his
knees, which he will be very careful not to do but a few times.

To Prevent Getting Cast in Stall.

Have a strap hanging from over head in about the centre of
the stall, with a rein snap at the end of it. Have a small iron
ring fastened on the halter on the top of the head. Hitch the
horse in the stall with the halter as usual, and snap the hang-
ing strap into the ring. It prevents his rolling over, conse-
quently he cannot get cast.

For Pawing.

Attach a strap to his fetlock, with a bit of trace chain about
fifteen inches long hanging from it. When he paws he whips
his other shin with the chain.

Halter-Pulling.

Halter-pulling is one of the worst faults that a horse can
have, as you cannot trust him anywhere, either in or out of

20 | SEO. W Re AEN

the stable, it is, in most cases, the fault of the owner of the
horse, that he contracts this bad habit, either by tying at first
with insecure halters, or to weak and insecure hitching posts
or mangers. Puton the war bridle and train the horse about
until he will come to you readily when you pull him a little
sideways. Simply repeat this, gradually a little more on aline
with his body at each repetition, until he will yield as readily
to being pulled forward as sideways. Now take him to the
post and run the bridle through the ring, but do not tie it.
Keep hold of the bridle and frighten him back ;as he starts to
run back, give him a quick, sharp pull, and then let go. Do
not hang on, even if he draws the bridle out of the ring.
Fetch him up again, and repeat; and at the third or fourth
trial you will not be able to make him pull. Yet do not con-
sider him broken, by any means; but repeat whenever he has
the habit of pulling—at the post in the street, in the stall, or
wherever it may be. Another plan is: Tie a strap or piece of
rope round the body, where the harness saddle rests ; then lead
the horse to his manger or to a post, run the halter strap
through the ring or hole, and pass back between the fore legs,
over the strap or rope tied around the body, and tie to the hind
- leg, below the fetlock ; then step forward to his head and make
him pull. Of course he will go back, with a rush; but the
moment-he attempts going back, the halter strap pulls directly
upon the hind leg, which frightens him behind, and he steps
forward to get out of difficulty. Three or four lessons will
usually break up the habit; but do not be afraid of making
him pull. frighten him back, by all means possible. The
more you can make him pull upon himself, at first, the quicker
he will give it up.

The Horse Bad to Shoe.

Usually, a horse bad to shoe can be shod by attaching to his
hind foot a short strap, and taking it in the right hand while
he has the war bridle on, and with the left pulling his foot for-
ward by the strap, at which he kicks, when you must reprove
him with the war bridle, keeping his foot up with the strap
until he submits without resistance. But if your subject is
very bad, take a piece of webbing, a strap, or a rope about
twelve feet long, and step before the horse and tie one end of

TIOW TO ‘Tira, 21

it in a loop around the neck, where the collar rests; then pass
the other end back between the fore legs, around the near hind
leg, below the fetlock, bring forward outside of the left fore
leg, and put through the loop around the neck; then step a
little in front of the horse, take hold of this strap and pull back
upon it, until the foot is brought forward a very little, so that
when he undertakes to step he can just reach the floor; in a
few minutes more take up his foot as far forward as possible,
when you can hold it very easily. He willstruggle to free the
foot by kicking, but you must let him struggle; and if he
undertakes to run backward, whirl him round by his head
until he will yield his foot. As soon as he yields a little, handle
the foot gently, until he will suffer you to handle while back
in its natural position. Be sure and rub the leg very carefully
when you put itdown, and use a soft strap or piece of webbing,
for fear you may chafe the foot.

Running Away.

Put on the foot strap, and when he attempts to rub, take up
his foot, making him run and tripping him every time he will
not stop instantly at the sound of ‘‘ whoa.’’ Should he be ex-
tremely wilful, he may run on three legs. If you mistrust so,
attach another strap to the opposite foot. Then make him run,
and if he will not stop for the taking up of one foot, take up
the second, which will destroy his confidence in short order.
This will effectually correct any runaway horse or team.

General Remarks.

Mankind are too apt to depend upon their strength to beat
the horse, without making any use of their reasoning powers
to out-general him; and in many instances such an exercise of
tyranny over the horse only engenders a rebellious spirit on
the part of the animal. Therefore lay aside strength and use
reason; be moderate, be temperate. No man can become a
good horseman, and not have first learned to control himself
before he attempts to control the animal. Be firm, be perse-
vering, be honest — never lieto your horse. Endeavor to have
him understand what you want, and do not confuse him by
attaching different meanings to the same word. It is quite
common to say ‘‘ Whoa!’’? when you mean for the horse to go

22 HOW TOWRATN.

slower; and to let him know of your presence by saying
‘}- Whoa!’’ when he has not stirred a foot; and then when you
want your horse to stop—when your life may depend upon
having a good ‘‘whoa’’ on him—you find you have not got
it. You have played it entirely out of him. Never say
‘* Whoa!’ unless you mean to stop right there. Speak always
in a natural tone of voice, under all circumstances.

Have your horse understand by examination and experience
that the things liable to frighten are harmless; and be sure not
to whip him for being frightened. Always let your horse face
the object of fear; and remember that the slower you move
him when frightened the more power you have over him.
There are times when letting a horse trot is almost as bad as
letting him run away.

Fear is something a horseman should never exhibit in his
countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon
learns to take advantage of such indications, to become care-
less of control, if not, indeed, aggressive. Let your lessons be
thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and patient with the
colt, but make the wilful, stubborn horse feel the full extent of
your power until he submits; though if he should become
much heated and excited, it is prudent to stop, and repeat the
lessons at some future time; but repeat until there is thorough
and unconditional submission. Let your treatment be char-
acterized by gentleness afterward.

ceverer< “TFA NENG:

——_--~+@ -— —

(A)S many of our readers may wish to know how to teach

their horses tricks, we will explain how it may be done.
Teaching a young horse a few tricks, serves greatly to keep up
an interest in him, and makes him appear intelligent, fearless
and affectionate. In teaching your horse to perform tricks, it
is best to give him one or two lessons of half or three-quarters
of an hour each, daily.

To Come at Crack of Whip or Word of Command.

Put on the war bridle, stand off a few feet from his head,
holding the end of the bridle in the left hand and the whip in
the right.

Crack the whip alittle, and say, ‘‘Come here, sir!’’ Hedoes
not know what this means, but you show him by pulling on
the bridle a little, which he will obey by moving toward youa
few steps. This movement you thank him for by stepping for-
ward and giving him a little apple ora few kernels of corn, and
caressing him gently; then repeat in the same way, regarding |
him as before, and so continue until he will walk up to you
readily when you crack the whip or say, ‘‘Come here, sir! ”’
which he will soon learn todo. Each time he comes to you
talk to him kindly, and do not fail to give him his little reward
of corn or apple, oats, or something of the kind which he likes.
You can now take off his halter and turn him loose, and repeat
until he fully comprehends that the way to avoid the whip is
to come to you, which, with the encouragement of rewarding,
will soon inspire his fullest confidence, and he will come to you
and follow like a dog.

Be very cautious about the use of the whip, or harsh lan-
guage, remembering that perfect, cheerful obedience is your
object, and that can be secured only by great patience and gen-
tleness. '

24 TRICK TRAINING.

To Make a Bow.

Take a pin in your right hand, between the thumb and fore-
finger, and stand up before, but a little to the left of your
horse. Then prick him on the breast very lightly, as if a fly
biting, which to relieve he will bring down his head, and this
you will accept as yes, and for which you will reward him by
caressing and feeding, as before. Then repeat, and so continue -
until he will bring his head down the moment he sees the least
motion of your hand towards his breast, or Sc some
signal which he will understand readily.

To Say No.

Stand by your horse near the shoulder, holding the same
pin in your hand, with which you prick him lightly on the
withers, and to drive away, he will shake his head. You
then caress as before, and repeat, until he will shake his
head at.the least indication of touching him with a pin. A
horse can be trained so nicely in this way in a short time, as to
cause him to shake his head or bow, by merely turning the
hand a little, or moving it slightly towards him.

To Lie Down.

To teach a horse how to do this trick quickly, you must lay
him down two or three times, or as often as you will find it
necessary to make him understand your object. If an old
horse, strap the near foreleg to the arm; then take the little
strap previously used to temper the colt with, place it over the
back and strap around the off fore foot, below the fetlock ; then
take the bridle rein firmly in the left hand, about eighteen
inches from the head, and pull it a little toward you. The
moment he steps, pull upon the strap over the body, which
will bring the horse on his knees. Hold him quietly, at the
same time talking to him gently. When he springs, pull
sharply with the left hand, and at the same instant pull down
with the right, which will swing him around you, and prevent
his rising high enough to injure his knees by the momentum
of the body in coming down. By being gentle, the horse will
usually lie down in a short time When down, treat your
horse with the greatest attention and kindness. After holding
him down ten or fifteen minutes, permit him to getup. Repeat

TRICK TRAINING. 25

this lesson until he will come down readily. Then use only
the strap over the back, having it on the near foot, and bring
him on his Knees gently, when he will soon liedown. When
he will come on his knees readily by taking up the foot in this
way, take up the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down.
He will soon come down. When he will come down on his
knees readily by taking up the foot with the hand, simply
stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, ‘‘ Lie down, sir!”?
Then make him come down by a motion of the hand; and
_ finally, by simply telling him to lie down. [If a colt, use but
the single strap over the body at first, which will soon cause
him to come on his Knees. In teaching a horse to lie down,
be gentle, caress and reward him for lying down, and your
horse, comprehending what you want, and finding himself
paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious to get down~for
the reward as you are to have him. |

To Sit Up.

When your horse will lie down readily, you can then easily
teach him to sit up, likea dog. If young, and not very heavy
or strong, you can easily prevent his getting up without tying
him down. First cause him to lie down, having on hima
common bridle, with the reins over the neck; then step behind
him and place the right foot firmly on the tail, the reins in
your hands. Then say, ‘‘Get up, sir!’’ The horse, rising
from a recumbent position, first turns on his belly, throws out
his forward feet and raises himself on them, springs forward
and rises on his hind feet. Now, standing upon his tail firmly,
and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts to spring
forward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you hold him -
sitting up. Hold him firmly a few seconds, talk to him kindly,
before permitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times,
when, instead of springing up he will sit upon his haunches a
short time, which you are to accept as complying with your
wishes. Always say, ‘‘Sit up, sir!’’ every time, and hold him
in this position as long as he will bear, by fondling and feeding
him with something he likes from the hand, and your horse
will soon learn to sit up for you as long as you wish.

But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary
to resort to other means to hold him down at first. It can be

26 TRICK TRAINING.

done by putting on his neck a common collar, and causing him
to lie down. Then fasten a piece of rope, ora rein, to each
hind foot, and bring it forward through the collar and draw up
close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. Then step
behind, as in the other case, and when he attempts to rise on
his hind feet, he finds it impossible to do so, because you hold
them firmly with these straps. Repeat two or three times,
when it will not be necessary to resort to such force.

To Kiss You.

Teach him first to take an apple out of your hand. Then
gradually raise the hand nearer your mouth, at each repetition,
until you require him to take it from your mouth — you hold-
ing it there with your hand — telling him at the same time to
kiss you. He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your
mouth — first to get his apple, but finally because commanded
todoso. Simply repeat until he understands the trick thor-
oughly.

To Shake Hands.

Tie ashort strap, ora piece of cord, to the forward foot, below
the fetlock. Stand directly before the horse, holding the end
of this strap or cord in your hand; then say, ‘‘ Shake hands,
sir!’’ and immediately after commanding him to do so, pull
upon the strap, which will bring his foot forward, and which
you are to accept as shaking hands, thanking him for it by car-
essing and feeding; and so repeat, until, when the demand is
made, he will bring the foot forward in anticipation of having
it pulled. This is a very easy trick to teach a horse.

By alittle practice a horse may be easily trained to approach,
make a bow, shake hands, and follow like a dog, lie down, sit
up, &c., which makes him appear both polite and intelligent.

Never lose courage, or confidence in your ability, because
you may not bring about good results easily. To accomplish
anything of importance, remember, requires no ordinary reso-
lution and perseverance. There would be no credit or import-
ance attached to mastering and managing bad horses, if not
difficult, and apparently dangerous. No duty requires more
firmness of purpose in the control of the passions, or more
fidelity to the principles of kindness and truth, than that of
horsemanship.

TRICK TRAINING. 27

If you would be a really successful horseman, you must
never seem to forget by your conduct that you are a man, and
that your real superiority over the animal consists in the pru-
dent exercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force is not your
forte, and the{instant you give way to passion your reason must
yield to the control of blind instinct, and you at once abdicate
your intellectual superiority over the animal. Try to prove,
by the example of your actionsin the performance of the duty,
that to be a good horseman, requires higher qualifications of
fitness than that of the huckstering dishonesty and depravity
so generally evinced in the conduct of those claiming the
distinction.

ART OF SHOEING.

SS

F we examine the horse’s foot while in its natural state, it

will be found to be almost round, and very elastic at the
heel; the frog broad, plump, and of a soft, yielding character ;
the commissures open and well defined, and the sole concave;
the outside of the crust, from the heel to the toe, increased
from a slight level to an angle of about forty-five degrees.
Consequently, as the hoof grows, it becomes wider and longer
in proportion to the amount of horn secreted, and the narrower
and shorter in proportion to the amount of horn cut away
from the ground surface. If ashoe were fitted nicely and ac-
curately to the foot after being dressed down well, it would be
found to be too narrow and short for the same foot after a lapse
of afew weeks. Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed
firmly to this naturally enlarging and elastic hoof, it prevents
its natural freedom of expansion almost wholly, and does not,
as the foot grows down, allow it to become wider at the quarters,
in proportion to the quantity of horn grown, as before being
shod; and consequently, the foot changes, from the continued
effect of the restraint, from an almost round, healthy foot, toa
contracted and unhealthy condition, as generally seen in horses
shod for a few years. The principles which should govern in
shoeing are few and simple, and it is surprising that a matter
involving such serious consequences should be conducted with
so little consideration. The object of the shoer should be, in
trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, to Keep the foot
natural, and this involves:

First—The cutting away of any undue accumulation ‘of
horn affecting in the least its health and freedom.

Second—To carry out in the form of the shoe that of the
foot as nearly as possible.

= G

ART OF SHOEING. 29

Third—To fit and fasten the shoe to the foot so as to inter-
fere least with its health and elasticity.

_ The object in preparing the foot for the shoe should be to
remove any undue accumulation of horn designed to prevent
its natural bearing, and the free, healthy action of its parts, and
requires the cutting away of about the proportion which con-
tract with the ground would have worn off, or so much as had
grown since being shod-last. If the shoes have been ona
month, then the proportion of horn secreted in the time is to
be removed. If on two months then the proportion of two
months’ growth. Nodefinite rule can be given; the judgment
must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The
stronger and more rapid the growth of the foot, the more must
be cut away; and the weaker and less horn produced, the less,
to the extreme of simply leveling the crust a little, the better
to conform to the shoe. There is, generally, a far more rapid
growth of horn at the toe than at either the heels or the
quarters; more, therefore, will require to be taken off the toe
than off other parts. Therefore shorten the toe and lower the
heels until you succeed in bringing down the bearing surface
of the hoof upon the shoe, to almost a level with the live horn
of the sole. Be careful to make the heels level.

Having lowered the crust to the necessary extent with the
buttress or knife, smooth it down level with the rasp. The
soleand frog detach from old horn by exfoliation, as it becomes
superabundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring
were it not for the restraining effect of the shoe upon the gen-
eral function of the foot, which is liable to prevent such de-
tachment of the horn.

When this is the case the sole should be properly dressed
out with an English shave, the end of which isshaped like an
iron used at saw mills to mark and measure boards. The but-
tress is too large and square-edged to dress out so concave a
surface properly, and unless great care is exercised it will not
only penetrate through the sole insome places, but leave others
entirely neglected. While a good workman may work well
with almost any kind of tool, such have also the faculty of
adapting tools to the work. A horse’s foot is not to be hacked
and cut as if only a block of lifeless wood, and even if a lifeless
machine, what care would be found necessary to preserve its

30 ART OF SHOEING.

harmony of action complete? The buttress does not seem to
us to be at all adapted to dressing out the sole, and should no
be used for that purpose. While we are obliged to find fault
with the carelessness of blacksmiths in this respect, it is with
the spirit of kindness, sensible that we ourselves are only dull
pupils in the work of reform, and perhaps deserving severe
criticism.

We would be particular also in impressing the necessity of
not confounding the bars with the substance of the sole, and
cutting them down to acommon level with thesole. Any man
of common sense can see that the bearing of the bars should be
equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that they
offer a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The
cutting away of the bars to give the heels an open appearance
is inexcusable, and should not be done.

In a natural, healthy condition the frog has a line of bear-
ing with the hoof, and by its elastic nature acts as a safeguard
to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately over it, and
helps to preserve the foot in its natural state, by keeping the
- heels spread. The frog should never be trimmed or cut except
in rare cases. It seems to be wisely intended to give life and
health to the foot. Permitting the heels to grow down, with
the addition of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its
natural position and causes it to shrink and harden, and bears
in consequence an important influence in setting up a diseased
action that usually results in contraction of the foot. If the
heels are square and high, and the hoof presents rather a long,
narrow appearance, and is hollow on the bottom, there is a
state of contraction going on, and you must not hesitate to dress
down thoroughly. Donot hesitate because the foot will appear
small; cut away until you are well down toa level with the
like horn of the sole, and if the foot is weak, use the same pru-
dence in not cutting itaway toomuch. The shoer must also
bear in mind that the sole must not rest upon the shoe. The
sole when not clogged with old horn, acts as a spring to the
weight of the horse; and if it rests upon the shoe an inflam-
mation may be caused by the pressure of the coffin bone upon
the sensitive lamin, which is liable in consequence to be so
bruised as to cause soreness and inflammation. The effect of
such bruises are most common at the angle of the inner heel,

ee Se

ART OF SHOEING. 31

where the descending heel of the coffin bone, forcibly pressing
the soft, sensible sole upon the horny sole, is apt to rupture one
or more of the small blood vessels of the delicate fleshy sub-
stance connecting the crust to the coffin bone of the part, caus-
ing red spots called corns. Let the foot be so dressed down,
and the shoe so approximate, that the bearing will come evenly
upon the crust all the way round, without the sole touching
theshoe. This requires the crust to be dressed level, and though
well down to the live horn of the sole, it should always be left
a little higher. The corners between the bars and crust should
be well pared out, so that there is no danger of the sole resting
upon the shoe.

Presuming that we have said enough on the subject of par-
ing, we will now consider the

Shoe.

The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to
size, weight, fitting and fastening, as to combine the most ad-
vantages of protection, and preserve, as best, the natural tread
of the foot; in weight it should be proportioned to the work

» or employment of the horse. The foot should not be loaded

with more iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the hoof is
light, the shoe should be light also; but if the horse works
principally on the road, his shoe should be rather heavy. In
its natural state, the foot has a concave sole surface, which
seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse
when traveling. Shoes should be fashioned on this principle,
for aside from the advantages of lightness and strength, they
are considered to be an improvement upon the common flat
shoe.

George H. Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said lately in a letter
on shoeing, ‘‘ The action of concave feet may be compared to
that of the claws of a cat, or the nails of the fingers and toes
of man; the nails and toes are the fulcrum; they grasp, as it
were, the bodies with which they come in contact, and thus
secure a fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling or
grasping. Now in order to preserve the natural mechanical
action of the horn and sole, the ground surfaeeof the shoe must
correspond exactly with the ground surface of the foot; that is,
the ground surface of the shoe must be beveled cup fashion ; its

32 ART OF SHOEING.

outer edge being prominent, corresponding to the lower and
outer rim of the hoof; while the shoe being hollow it resembles
the natural concave cavity of the sole of the foot.

‘‘No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it
be high or low-heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or
shortened at the toe, or having a concave or convex sole, it
matters not, the ground surface of the shoe must be concave.
In every other part of the shoe, alterations, deviations from
any given rule or form, are needed, in consequence of the ever
varying form of the foot, and the condition of the same, both
as regards health and disease; but the sole of the foot being
concave, presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe,
which the smith with all his skill cannot improve on; and if
all such craftsmen were to follow this pattern more closely than
they do, there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less
number of lame horses.”’

The shoe should be of an equal thickness all the way round,
perfectly level on the top side, and concave on the ground sur-
face. Wecannot see the propriety, urged by astandard author,
of seating every shoe alike, and of carrying it well back to the
heel. Seating appears to be necessary only for flat-footed
horses, for the inside edge of the shoe must be lowered from the
possible bearing of the sole, and enough to run a pricker round
between the shoe and hoof, to remove any gravel or foreign
matter that may find a lodgment between the sole and shoe,
If there is much space between the sole and shoe it invites the
accumulation of gravel and other substances injurious to the
foot. If the seating is carried well back to the shoe, so wide
that the heels, instead of bearing on a level surface, as they
should, come down upon this inclined plane, it tends to crowd
them together. If the shoe is not wide in web, and the foot
strong and arched, it may be made entirely level on the top.
At all events that portion upon which rests the heels and crust
must be level, and should be fitted accurately. Theshoeshould
be continued completely round towards the heels as far as the
crust extends, as large as the full, unrasped hoof; but no part
must project beyond it, excepting at the extreme of the heels.
The expansion of the heels, and the growth of the foot, require
that the shoe should be long and wide enough at the heels to
allow for the natural growth of the foot in the time it is calcu-

oo

ART OF SHOELING. 33

lated the shoe should be on before being re-set; for as the foot
enlarges the shoe is brought forward, until it loses its original
proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may
be a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme
bearing of theheels. The nail holes should be punched coarse,
and in the centre of the web. If the hind shoe, four on the
side and well forward; if the forward shoe, four on the outside
and two or three well forward in the inside toe, as found neces-
sary to retain the shoe. The manner of fastening the shoe is
what really affects the foot, and which requires the most special
attention in shoeing. For the foot, being elastic, expands in
the same degree to the weight of the body on tie rough that it
does on the nicely fitted shoe. Itis the number and position of
the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed well
back in the quarters, four on a side, as is common, the crust is
held as firmly to this unyielding shoeas if in a vise, which ut-
terly prevents the free action necessary to its health. Inflam-
mation of the sensible lamine is produced, which causes con-
traction, and the consequent derangement of the whole foot.
No matter how well shaped a boot may be, if it is too short
and small for the free action of the foot when in use, it is a
cause of continual torment, and induces the irritation of
inverted toe nails and corns of the most aggravating character.

The principle is precisely the same in shoeing horses. If
the free natural expansion of the foot is prevented by the shoe
being so nailed to the hoof as to obstruct its expansion and the
possibility of the quarters spreading in proportion to the growth
of the hoof, there must result an irritation of the fleshy sub-
stance between the crust and coffin bone, that ultimately sets
up so much diseased action of the parts, as to cause contraction
and navicular disease. Now shoes may be securely fastened
without causing such mischief, if the following method of
nailing be observed :

Drive four nails on the outer side of the foot, same as com-
mon, while you drive but two or three well forward in the toe
of the opposite, which leaves the inner quarter virtually free
and independent.of the shoe; for the outside of the foot being
the only part fastened, carries the whole shoe with it at every
expansion, while the inner side being unattached, expands in-
dependently of it, and the foot is left, as nearly as possible, in

34 ART OF SHOEING.

a state of nature, so far as its power of expansion is concerned.
The reader may ask, will this style of nailing hold shoes on
the foot of horses of all work? I answer, yes. Experience has
fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold shoes on ordinary
feet, for any purpose, if the shoes are properly fitted, for a
period of from four to seven weeks, which is as long as shoes
ought to be on without resetting.

If seven nails are found to be necessary, you can drive three
in a space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the toe,
though in most cases two will be found to answer the purpose.
Turn down theclinches strongly. Nothing should be done for
what is called fancy. The hoof should never be rasped or filed
above the clinches. The hoof is covered by a peculiar enamel
that prevents the too rapid evaporation of moisture from the
horn, and must not be disturbed. The practice of rasping,
filing, and sand-papering the hoof to make it look nice, only
produces mischief and should not be permitted.

Horses kept for light driving and irregular work, and par-
ticularly those having rather square, upright heels, should be
shod on the one-side nailing principle, as the feet of such
horses are much disposed to contraction. So far as observation
and experience teach, it is settled that proper attention to par-
ing down the feet and fastening the shoe, so as not to interfere
with the free expansion of the hoof, as above, will remedy con-
traction; though attention to growing down the crust, and the
application of shoes that are slightly convex, or beveled out,
so as to have a tendency to spread the heels when the weight
of the body is thrown upon the foot, and fastening on the prin-
ciple of the inside quarter being left free, is regarded as much
better. But the blacksmith must be a good workman to fashion
and fit a shoe in this way properly. By observing the grain of
the foot, it will be seen that the fibres of the hoof run from the
top of the foot, or coronary border, towards the toe, in most
feet, at an angle of about forty-five degrees. - It will be plain,
then, that if the nails are driven with the grain of the horn,
they will drive much easier, and hold better, and be less liable
to cut and crack the fibers. The nails should not be driven
higher in the crust than seven-eighths of an inchs and not so
deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If the foot is
light, and showsa thin, delicate crust, the nails should be small,

ART OF SHOHING. 35

and not driven high or deep into the horn. Asarule, the fewer
and smaller the nails used, provided they secure the shoe to the
foot with safety, the better. Shoes should be re-set or re-placed
as often as four or six weeks; though in some cases it may not
be necessary to re-set quite so often. It is a positive necessity
at twelve, and must not be neglected longer than seven or eight
weeks. Great care should be taken not to let shoes remain too

_long on colts and young horses, for they are apt to cause corns
and contracted feet.

Interfering Shoes.

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the foot
hits the opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the
ankle with a rag nicely, which color with some kind of color-
ing matter, over where the opposite foot hits. Then drive the
horse until you can discover, by some of this coloring matter
adhering, what portion of the crust hits the ankle. Remove
this portion of the crust, and have the shoe well set under the
foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot safely by the
bearing of the barand heel. The hoof should be pared lowest
on the outside, to turn the ankle, that the other hoof may pass
clear. Yet if the inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks,
and the inside is found to be actually lower than the outside.
Shoes, to prevent interfering, should be light and of narrow
web on the inside, with three nail holes near the toe. They
should be straight at the point where they come in contact
with the ankle of the opposite leg. By adhering strictly to
this principle of paring the foot, and fitting and fastening the
shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of the difficulty.

Shoes, to prevent over-reaching, should be long, and for the
forward feet heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind
feet light, with heavy toes. The hoof should be well pared at
the toe.

To Cure Corns.

Cut the horn well down, but not to the quick; fit the shoe
so that it does not press upon the part. Then saturate well
with pine or sap gum, which is found exuding from pine trees
when cut. Fill the part nicely with tow, and put on the shoe,
remembering that the shoe must be so fitted as not to oblige
the part to support but very slightly, if any, the weight of the

36 | ART OF SHOEING.

horse. This remedy was given us by an intelligent shoer, and
is certainly good. Horses with corns must be oftener and more
carefully shod, than those free from them.

In shoeing, strive to keep the form of the foot natural. If
the hoofs are not flat and weak, the shoes should set out evenly

to the edge of the crust under the toe. Let the nails be driven |

well forward in the toe, or what is better, be placed well round
in the outside quarter, and as far forward in the toe of the
inside as possible, and as few as will be found by experience
necessary to retain the shoe. Be positive in the enforcement
of this rule; and lastly, have the shoes re-set once in every six
or seven weeks.

Advice to Blacksmiths on Shoeing Young Animals.

Let me enjoin you, for humanity’s sake, that when you
first undertake to shoe a young animal, you will not forget the
value of kind treatment. Keep its head turned away from the
glaring fire, the clinking anvil, ete., etc. Let the man whom
he has been accustomed to, the groom or owner, stand at his
head, and talk to him kindly. When you approach him for
the first time, letit be without those implements you are to use
in his shoeing. Speak to him gently, then take up his foot.
If he refuse to let you do this, let the person having him in
charge doit. A young animal will allow this with a person
he is accustomed to, when he will repel astranger. By treat-
ing him kindly you can make him understand what is wanted ;
by abusing him you will only frighten him into obstinacy.

ee OS

MISCELLANEOUS.

Horseback Riding.—A few Hints for the Ladies.

As the delightful and healthful exercise of horseback riding
is becoming more fashionable every year, the following hints
will help many who are novices in the art of managing a
horse, and some who think they know all about it.

‘‘There are few prettier sights than fair equestriennes, pro-
vided they know how to ride; and although it seems paradoxi-
cal to say so, yet it is not every fair equestrienne who can ride.
No lady can use aspur without damaging her habit more than
her horse. Extreme neatness is the desideratum in a rider’s
makeup. No flying ribbons or feathers, but a plainly made,
well fitting cloth habit, with a white linen collar and cuffs,
fastened without ribbon or color, unless it be of a silk hand-
kerchief round the throat. <A top hat with a lace veil, for use
as well as ornament, twisted round it and over the hair, black
gloves, and nothing can look better than any lady when so at-
tired.

‘‘ Your horse is at the door, and now comes the tug of war.
You have got to arrive at the top of fifteen it may be sixteen
hands. Puzzling as the performance appears as you stand on
the ground by his side, and the monster towers above you,
nothing but knack is wanted. Donot beina hurry. Place
the right hand firmly on the left pommel, and the left hand
firmly on the squire’s or servant’s shoulder. Stand steadily
on the right leg, and place the left foot in his right hand.
Wait one minute, until you are both sure the other is ready,
and if you spring at the moment that he lifts his hand you are

* mounted gracefully, without an appearance even of difficulty.

It is quite unnecessary to send a man’s hat flying into the
road, or to put your knees into his eyes; nor need he grasp
you fast, as if you were asack of flour fixed toa jointed crane,

38 MISCELLANEO US.

while you clutch and scramble up your saddle as if you were
climbing the side of aman-of-war out of a cuddy-boat. Noth-
ing can be more inelegant.

‘‘ People think they cannot help it, and rather than look so
ridiculous they have a chair or step brought and ‘ get on them-
selves.’ It is much better to ‘ get on’ properly; besides that,
when you do, your habit is properly placed and straight.
Once mounted, take up your reins and have your stirrup long
enough ; that is have it so long that the leg is almost straight
before the toe can reach it. Be sure all is right; then let your
horse slip off quietly. Nothing is a sign of worse riding than
to flurry and fluster to get off in a grand commotion, like froth,
that subsides into flatness very soon. Sit square, the right
knee pointing in a straight line between the horse’s ears; ride
on the snaffle if you use a double-rein bridle, reserving the
curb for emergencies, and treat your horse sensibly; he will
appreciate it. If he isa good one, his good qualities will be
drawn into notice, and the worst animal, with rational treat-
ment, shows the best he is capable of. Trotting is the pace
at which horse and rider show to the best advantage. Any
old plug can canter, but not every horse can trot well, nor rider
‘rise to it,’ if he can. Rise to your trot straight forward, with-
out stooping, keeping the action of your body with that of
your horse. Your position should always be as if your eyes
were fixed between the horse’s ears. Some people rise quite
independently of the horse’s action, and having got their
weight off the saddle on to their left leg, they stand in their
stirrups, and only preserve their equilibrium, and get back into
the saddle by a sort of twist, which has the appearance of the
corkscrew that is turning in the cork. When this movement
is apparent we may know thata fast trot would be impossible.
Should the pace increase, the rider would find it hopgless to
try and screw back, therefore she would cease to rise, and the
sudden tightening of the rein breaks the trot into a canter, and
the most beautiful action of the horse is lost. The artof riding
isin the hand. A horse walks, trots or gallops, his worst or
his best, according to the handling he receives. Keep the left
knee slightly pressed to the saddle, and rise from it by the
muscular action of the limb from the knee to the waist, rather
than give pressure of the foot in the stirrup. The stirrup is
intended rather to rest the leg than for anything else.

MISCELLANEOUS. — 39

‘‘A spur is never needed. There is no horse but what a
woman can ride better without the spur than with it. Try
and let a horse understand what you want him to do, and in
nine cases out of ten, if you can do this, he will do what is
required much better for himself than you can teach him.

‘‘ Usually the rider is uncertain, first, what she wants done ;
then, often, especially if leaping is intended, her courage fails
her, her nervousness is instantly communicated to the horse —
the reins are more instantaneous conductors than any telegraph
wire ever could be; and then heis blamed, when thus hurried
and confused, for misunderstanding and blundering through
what, if left to himself, he would have done perfectly well.
Always have both hands ready for the reins, so that at any
moment, by taking them two in each hand, the most perfect
contro] is obtained. A horse cannot turn if you keep his head
straight, the hands low, and the whip held upward across the
rider’s knees. It is then ready, without difficulty, for instantly
striking the horse on either shoulder or flank, as may beneeded.
A whip should never be carried for ornament, but use; and
should never touch a horse but in chastisement. Unless it be
carried upright in this way, it is impossibfe to avoid its con-
stantly tickling the right flank. This distracts a restive horse,
and the most unimpressible acquire a kind of motion which is
very ugly.”’

Treatment of the Horse on the Road.

Young man, I see you are about to take a drive this morn-
ing and will offer you some advice. Your horse is restive and
wants to be off before you are ready. You should teach him
to stand, by following directions given on preceding pages.
See that the harness is all right and buckled up so as to give
the horse plenty of room for action, and not so much as to
make a plunge at crossing every little break or gutter, but just
as if the horse and carriage were built together. Slack the
check-rein, if you have one, and let the horse carry his head
naturally, he will travel better, endure longer and show his
true gait. Step in and lay hold of the reins gently, and by a
gentle motion let the horse understand that you wish him to
start, or speak gently to him; he knows what is to be done, and
awaits the order patiently.

40 MISCELLANEO US.

Now, as your horse has just been fed, drive him at a very
gentle pace for the first two or three miles until he warms up
and his body becomes lighter. Keep your hand steady with a
gentle pressure on the bit—no jerking or switching of the
reins. If more speed is wanted speak to him soothingly and
in a gentle manner what you want him to do, and if heis a
‘‘ free horse’’ he will try to do it; but, if he is lazy and inclin-
ed to lag apply the whip, but be careful not to apply it any
harder than is necessary to bring him up to the required speed.
If you should call on some friend before completing your jour-
ney, don’t permit your horse to stand in the wind or cold
without being well blanketed, as very serious diseases are con-
tracted by this carelessness. If you are long on the road, don’t
forget to water your horse occasionally, but care should be
taken not to let him drink too much when heated; alittle and
often, say at every watering place, is the best rule. If your
horse gets frightened at any unusual sight or noise, do not whip
him, for if you do he will connect the whipping with the object.
that alarmed him and make him afraid of it ever after. If he
merely shies at an object, give him time to examine it, which
with some encouraging words from the driver will persuade
him to pass it. When you return, have the harness removed
at once and the horse rubbed down with a wisp of straw or hay.
Give him a bite of grass or hay and let him cool off before being
watered or fed. Every one who handles a horse or has any-
thing to do with one, should in the first place cultivate his ac-
quaintance; let him know that you are his friend, and prove
it to him by your kind treatment; he needs this to inspire
confidence and when that is gained, he is your humbleservant.

The ‘‘Check Rein.’’

One of the barbarisms of the present day is the unmerciful
use made of the check rein to compel a horse, while being
driven to a carriage, to hold his head in an unnatural and pain-
ful position. This rein is tightened to such an extent by the
fancy horseman, that the animal is unable to see the ground
where he is compelled to place his foot-steps, and that too,
while being driven at the top of his speed.

If the practice were confined to the ‘‘ fancy ”’ alone, the re-
sult would not beso bad; but we see it followed up by grave

MISCELLANEOUS. 41

and gay, old and young, male and female (for it is quite com-
mon to meet with a lady who prides herself on being a good
‘‘whip’’). To this feature of woman’s rights we have no par-
ticular objection, if she will only slacken the ‘‘ check”’ and let
the horse hold his head, while traveling, in its natural posi-
tion.

Hints on Colts.

Remember that the early part of the life of a colt determines
in a great measure, whether at maturity the animal will be
highly valuable or worthless. Observe carefully and early how
a colt carries his feet, his fore feet in particular; if he inclines
to carry them too near the ground, turn him into a pasture
which has a very rough surface. In this way he will get into
the habit of raising his feet high. If he inclines to point his
toes down, so as to make him likely to trip, he ought to be shod
early, and the shoes should be made thick before and thin be-
hind, to give him a habit of raising his toes. By all means
use kindness and gentleness toward a colt, so that he may be-
come docile, fearless, and put confidence in his master.

Management of Young Colts.

Farmers are apt to go to one of two extremes with their
colts — either to halter them and drag them about through the
heat of summer on roads of all kinds, alongside the dams at
work, or else to turn them out to run wild during the first
six months of their existence, out of sight and hearing of
human beings. Now, we take exception to both these
methods of proceeding —to the first, because the limbs and
feet of the young animal are tender and apt to be strained and
bruised by being compelled to keep up with the dam (even
when walking) for several consecutive miles. The young colt
requires frequent rest, and should be at liberty to lie down
whenever inclination prompts. When the colt becomes tired
it drags on its halter, straining the cords of the neck, back and
legs. It is also disadvantageous to allow the young animal to
run too long without subjection, for when the attempt is made
he will resist with great force and often with injury. I am
strongly opposed, both in principle and practice to ‘‘ breaking
colts’? that is allowing them to attain the age of two or more
years before they are taken in hand for learning the principles

42 MISCELLANEOUS. —

which are to form so important a part in their future life.
There should be no ‘breaking’? about it. The education
should begin as soon as the colt is born, and if properly attend-
ed to will be perfect by the time he is large enough to drive.
First get the confidence and good will of the animal. This
you can do by caressing itand arming yourself with salt, ap-
ples and a little sugar, etc., and pay them out in small quanti-
ties to the animal, letting it follow you about the yard, which
it will do for the sake of the goodies as persistently as a dog or
a vagrant to whom you have given good bits or a penny.

Being led or tied with a halter should be his first lesson,
and the sooner he learns it is the shorter the struggle and the
more permanent the lesson; never give him a chance to break
loose, for once done, and he will remember it for a long time,
and if the lesson be too often repeated, he will make a profi-
cient in this not desirable art.

During the winter the colt should stand haltered.a portion
of the time, either in his stable or out in the open air —the
latter for at least a portion of every day; use the currycomb
and brush freely. Remember you are forming the future horse,
and care now taken, either in his appearance or character, is
by nomeans lost. During the operation of halter ‘‘ breaking,”’
great care should be taken always to make him walk fast—
fast walking should be made a part of his education, and he
will never forget it during his after life. I know of no colt
which may not be made a good walker if properly trained
when young, but this is a fast time, and walking is too slow
to keep up with it.

Never suffer any one to strike or yell at a colt; one such
barbarous act will cause a day’s work to overcome its bad
effect. When first cleaning him avoid the head—then ap-
proach that part tenderly, and if he resists, go to some other
point. In a few moments return, and so continue until he
submits with pleasure. Your colt is then half broken. If
at any time the colt is left in the stable or allowed to follow
while the mare is put to hard work or driven any distance, let
him fill himself before the mother is harnessed, and on her re-
turn, kept away if the mare’s blood is heated, until it has cool-
ed off. Colts are easily injured by taking heated milk, and do
not recover from the effects for a year or more—in fact, never

Y

MISCELLANEO US. 43

get entirely over it, for they become reduced in flesh, get lousy,
shed their hair, and barely pass through the first year of their
existence, which is the most critical period of their growth
and development. Wean the colt at five or six months old,
first teaching him, while suckling the mare, to eat oats.
When taken from the dam confine the colt closely, and put
them out of hearing of each other for one week. During the
first winter feed daily two quarts of oats and all the hay the
colt will eat. This, with good warm shelter, will keep him
growing and improving. Don’t turn out in spring till the
weather is settled and warm, and a full bite of grass.

The first year makes or ruins the colt. It is the most im-
portant of his life. Keep him fat at first-year, whatever you
may do afterwards, for this year decides whether he is to bea
full grown horse or a miserable pony — no after care can atone
for neglect during the first twelve months. Good pasture
(mountain if possible) the next season and plenty of hay the
next winter, with a quart of grain if convenient, will bring
youa finely formed, powerful two-year old. If a horse, alter
him early, before fly time, and turn to good grass. In the fall
begin to break, by bitting gradually tighter each day; within
two weeks you have his head as high and graceful as nature
allows. The neck should be arched and the face vertical,
without constraint. When the bitting is accomplished, put on
your harness and let the straps dangle around his legs; con-
tinue this until he pays no attention to them, but do not over-
fatigue the colt either in the bitting bridle or harness. The
bending of the neck is extremely painful and should be done
by degrees, the work requiring two weeks. While in the bit-
ting bridle, exercise him on a circle to the right and left
alternately, the radius never less than ten to fifteen feet, other-
wise he will learn to step too short. Make him walk, and
walk fast while walking; no gait is more important, and our
agricultural societies should offer premiums for fast walkers.
While harnessed, accustom the colt to wagons, sulkies, ete., by

running them round and about him. Then harness to the

sulky and lead him several days until he no longer notices the
pushing or jostling of the vehicle. Then let one get in while
another leads, and so gradually get him accustomed to all
around him. On finding he is not hurt he will soon become

44 MISCELLANEOUS.

quiet. Occasionally harness double with a steady, quiet, horse,
but put no load on. Teach him to back by standing in front
and pressing on the bit— calling out back, ete. Always caress
him when he has done his duty. During the second winter
hitch in double, making the other horse draw all the weight,
and drive for a short distance, say one-quarter of a mile at a
time, alternately fastand slow. ‘Train your colt to three gaits
in harness — the fast walk always, the moderate or road gait
for distance, and the rapid trot. As if we desire to make a
man a good dancer we would begin young while the limbs
were nimble and the action graceful —so if we desire a fast
walker and a fast trotter too, we must take the colt while
young, and as when pressed he will take up the fast trot in-
stead of the gallop so natural in after years.

Jockey Tricks.

~How to Make a Horse Appear as though He was Badly
Foundered.—Take a fine wire and fasten tight around fetlock,
between foot and heel; smooth hair over it. In twenty min-
utes horse will show lame. Do not leave on over nine hours.

~—To Make a Horse Lame.—Take a single hair from tail, put
through eye of a needle, lift front leg and press skin between
outer and middle tendon or cord; shove needle through, cut off
hair each side and let foot down; horse will go lame in twenty
minutes.

How to Make a Horse Stand by his Food and not Touch it.
—Grease the front teeth and roof of the mouth with common
beef tallow, and he will not eat till you wash itout. This, in
conjunction with the above, will consummate a complete
founder.

How to Cure a Horse of the Crib or Sucking Wind.—Saw
between the upper teeth to the gums.

How to Put a Young Countenance on a Horse.—Make a
small incision in the sunken place over the eye; insert the
point of a goose quill and blow it up; close the external wound
with thread, and it is done.

To Cover Up the Heaves.—Drench the horse with one-
fourth pound common bird shot, and he will not heave till
they pass through him.

MISCELLANEOUS. 45

To Make a Horse Appear as if He had the Glanders.—
Melt four ounces fresh butter and pour it into his ear.

To Distinguish between Distemper and Glanders.—The
discharge from the nose in glanders will sink in water ; in dis-
temper it floats.

How to Make a True-Pulling Horse Balk.—Take tincture
cantharides one ounce, and corrosive sublimate one drachm ;
mix, and bathe his shoulders at night.

How to Nerve a Horse that is Lame.—Make a small incision
about half way from the knee to the joint on the outside of the
leg, and at the back part of the shin bone you will find a small
white tendon or cord; cut it off, and close the external wound
with astitch, and he will walk off on the hardest pavement
and not limp a particle.

How to tell a Horse’s Age.

The number of horse’s teeth is forty—twenty-four molar
or jaw teeth, twelve incisor or front teeth, and four tusks or
canine teeth between the molars and incisors, but usually
wanting in the mare. A few days after birth the colt puts
forth two small front teeth in the upper and lower jaws, and
soon after two more; these are called nippers; the next four
shortly make their appearance, and the four corner teeth come
afew months later. These twelve teeth in front of the mouth,
continue without much alteration until the colt is two years
old.

At two years old, colt sheds two centre nippers.

At three years old, colt sheds the adjoining teeth.

At four years old, colt sheds outer or corner teeth.

At five years old; bridle tooth is up, and the horse is now
said to have a full mouth.

At six years old, cups leave two centre teeth below.

At seven years old, cups leave adjoining teeth.

At eight years old, cups leave outer or corner teeth.

At nine years old, cups leave two centre nippers,

At ten years old, cups leave adjoining teeth.

At eleven years old, cups leave corner upper teeth.

At twelve years or past, groove on inside of bridle tooth
disappears in horse.” Mares very seldom have them. When
they do they are no criterion to be guided by.

RECIPES.

— ~<e»-—_—

How to Treat when Well and Cure
when Sick.

—_~e>———-

fullest confidence, as remedies of great value, and some of them at an
unusual cost, and they are presented with the hope of being fully ap-
preciated.

It is well to remember that to keep horses in health is much more im-
portant, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to cure sick ones.
Abuse, overwork and exposure should be guarded against if the serious
consequences ofinflammation of the lungs, colic, ete.,are to be avoided; and
should your horse be sick itis always best to be cautious about doctoring
too much, or until you are sure of what is necessary to be done.

dean following recipes have been gathered from sources entitled to the

Prevention of Horse Diseases.

Itis said that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” We
subscribe to that doctrine.

Asa general rule, horses become diseased through want of proper care
and attention. They should have plenty of exercise, and be well groomed;
the currycomb is to the horse what a bath is to mankind. It removes im-
purities, promotes a healthy action of the skin, and_ equalizes the electric
fluid. It is the poor man’s friend, for a horse curried twice daily will need
only half the grain of a horse not curried. The man of small means more
frequently neglects this point of economy than the wealthy.

Take a colt, the offspring of sound parents, give it plenty of grass,or hay
well cured, with pure clean water whenever it wants to drink; keep it
comfortably warm in winter in a stable well ventilated, moderately light,
the floor kept clean, well sprinkled with gypsum, (ground plaster,) an op-
portunity to exercise in playfulness every day of 00d weather, an oppor-
tunity of shelter from the hot sun or storms in summer, and at maturity
you will have a sound horse.

We will presume that the horse has been trained during his coltship,
according to instructions previously given, and that he has been fed a lit-
tle grain, gradually, as he approached maturity. Now, there are some
things that should not be done.

The horse should not be overloaded or strained; he should not be per-
mitted to cool too fast when heated by labor or other exercise; he should
not be exposed to cold rain or storms unless he is kept in motion, and
whenever the labor or other exercise ceases, he should be stabled and
rubbed with a wisp or dry cloth until he is thoroughly dry, body and
limbs. When taken from the stable aftera full fee@, he should not be put to
heavy draught, nor to fast travel, until he has had some moderate exercise,
that he may discharge an‘over gorged body. With these few instructions,

RECIPES. 47

and other precautions that will suggest themselves to a sensible horse-
man, there will be no heaves, no blindness, no spavin, no spring halt,
no splint, no grease in the heels, and the horse will be healthy and useful
until he dies of old age. IS not a good horse worth all this care for the
purpose of keeping him in good health?

Hints on Feeding and Care of Horses.

As the horse is kept for his muscle, he must have food to supply muscle,
But it is found, also, that great muscular exertion requires more rapid
respiration, and this respiration is sustained by the carbon of the food:
therefore there must be a proper balance between the carbonaceous an
nitrogenus elements of the food. Corn meal contains ten per cent. of
muscle sustaining food, and sixty-eight per cent. of heat or fat-producing .
food. This contains too much carbon and too little nitrogen as a principal
food for horses. It is too heating and fattening, and deficient in muscular
force. Let us examine a few ef the foods sometimes given to horses:

On nitrogenous or muscle-forming food, the oat contains 15 per cent.; the
pea 24; oil meal, 28; wheat and rye bran, 16; barley, 9; rye flour, 10; mil-
let, 14; timothy hay, 10; red clover, 16 per cent. Of carbonaceous or heat
and fat producing food, the oat contains 60 per cent.; the pea, 51; oil meal,
42; wheat and rye bran, 55; barley, 65; rye flour, 72; millet, 62; timothy
hay, 47; red clover, 40 per cent. It will be seen that of the grains given
above, the oat contains four of heat and fat-producing food to one of
muscle-forming matter, and this, for great muscular exertion, is found to
be the best proportion. ;

The fast horse men have long since decided in favor of oats,,combined
sometimes with wheat bran, which has about the same proportion. It
will also be observed that clover hay is very rich in muscle-forming food;
but there is a limit to the digestion of such bulky food, and therefore only
a certain amount can be given to a horse under hard labor.

We must not omit to note a very common error in feeding horses, which
has cost the life of many a noble animal—feeding corn meal, or other con-
centrated food alone. Corn meal, eaten alone, goes into the stomach of
the horse in the solid state of a housewife’s dough. To digest this mass
the gastric juice must penetrate and circulate through it. But, as this _
cannot be done, the digesting fluid operates only on the surface of the
dough. The consequence is, that before it can be digested, fever of the
stomach is produced, and sometimes death. But when the meal is mixed
with cut hay and moistened so the meal adheres to it, the hay separates
the particles of meal so the gastric juice circulates through it like a
sponge. Corn meal is quite harmless, even for colts, when thus fed.

All horses must not be fed in the same proportions, without due regard
to their ages, their constitutions andtheir work. Because the impropriety
of such a practice is self-evident. -Yet itis constantly done, and is the
basis of disease of every kind. Never use bad hay on account of its cheap-
ness. Because there is not proper nourishment init. Damaged corn is ex-
ceedingly injurious. Because it brings on inflammation of the bowels
and skin disease. Hay or grass alone will not support a horse under hard
work. Because there is not sufficient nutritive body in either. Whena
horse is worked hard its food should chiefly be oats; if not worked hard,
its food should chiefly be hay. Because oats supply more nourishment
and fiesh-making material than any other kind of food. Hay not so much.
Fora saddle or a coach horse, half a peck of sound oats and eighteen
pounds of good hay are sufficient. If the hay is not good add a quarter of
a peck more of oats. A horse which works harder may have rather more
of each; one that works little should have less. Sprinkle the hay with
water that has salt dissolved init. Because it is pleasing to the animal’s
taste,and more easily digested. A teaspoonful of salt ina bucket of water
is sufficient.

A horse should have atleasta pail of water morning and evening; or, still
better, two-thirds ofa pailful at three different times in theday. Because this
assuages his thirst without bloating him. He should not be made to work
directly after he has had a full draught of water; for digestion and exer-
tion can never go on together... When your horse refuses food after drink-
ing, go no farther that day. Because the poor creature is thorougly beaten.

48 | RECIPES.

/

Getting Horses into Condition.

To put a horse in the best looking condition for sale, he should be fed’on
grain or corn which has been soaked about 48 hours and then kept ona
floor till it has sprouted; it should lie about six inches thick, and be turned
every four or five hours, being watered sometimes to keep it moist; in
short, treated just the same as maltsters treat barley prior to being put on
the kiln to dry; barley is the best grain for a horse, when sprouted. Mix
ene peund of sulphur, one pound of rosin and two pounds of fenugreek,
and give two tablespoonfuls every second or third night, by shaking it
among the feed or giving it in any mash the horse is fond of. Four ounces
of antimony mixed with the above, and one tablespoonful given, willlend
an increased lustre to the skin and will improve the very worst looking
brute in existence. The exercise should be chiefly walking—no violent
sweating and no long journeys. 2

When in the stable, on dry food entirely, some farmers recommend
clover hay made from clover cut when the seed begins to shed; but this is
very wrong, for that kind of hay is woody in the stems, and hasa decided-
ly injurious effect on the horses, producing coughing, heaves, swelled heels
and legs,and often inflammation in the eyes. Theonly way in which it
can be given without dire results, is by cutting it intochaff and wetting it,
with some meal mixed with it. The meal has rather a scouring tendency,
and helps to carry off humors which would otherwise be engendered; but
when good, wholesome, nutritious hay and oats are fed, the horse should
eat dry, for the saliva is the natural moisture to go into the stomach with
the food, and is sure to be much better masticated in that state. A little
good chaff mixed with the oats will, if not wet, cause horses to grind the
oats closer, so that few will pass through whole.

inflammation of the Lungs.

First, a thorough bleeding, then would give tincture veratrum viride 4
ounce, laudanum 4 ounces, tincture aconite 44 ounce; shake well together
and give a teaspoonful every three or tour hours in some water well sweet-
ened; and if it does not bring down fhe pulse the dose can be gradually in-
ereased toa tablespoonful; and as soon as the horse recovers sos to eat,
and lie down naturally, would keep him on hay alone, perhaps with a few
carrots or potatoes; and daily give a bran mash with saltpetre, crude an-
timony and sulphur, for ten or fifteen days, and you will prevent dropsy
of the chest, which is a sequel of that disease.

Colic.

Sulphur ether 1 pint; aromatic spirits amonia 1 pint; sweet spirits nitre
2pints; opium 4 pound; asafcetida (pure) 7% pound; camphor 44 pound.
Putina large bottle, let it stand fourteen days, with frequent shaking,
and it will be fit for use. Dose, two ounces every two, three or four hours,
until the horse is relieved. Should be given in water well sweetened.

ANOTHER REMEDY.—One ounce laudanum; 1 ounce sweet spirits nitre;
1 ounce tincture asafoetida; 1 teaspoonful capsicum; from 2 to3 ounces ¢ar-
bonate soda; 44 pint whisky; 44 pint water. Mix, and give at one dose,
and if no better in twenty-five minutes, repeat half dose.

Spring Ha!t in Horses.

This affection is shown to be onearising from the strain and consequent
inflammation of an elastic cord, extending from the hock to the hoofjoint.
This cord lies immediately under the main middle vein, and in case of
strain, the inflammation which ensues may effect the nerves and other
parts in sympathy, calling off the mucous secretions, rendering this cord
elastic, and thus causing a britch or halt.

If theskin is slit by a skillful hand, four inches above the hoof of the
eifected leg. and this cord be carefully drawn out with an awl and severed,
it willrelieve the horse of all lameness as soon as the wound is healed,
and experience has shown that no injury results from theoperation. The
incision should be washed often with warm castile soap suds, and anoint-
ed with sweet oil, or some healing ointment, and the horse kept quiet till
the cure is effected.

RECIPES. 51

Carrots for Horses.

Towards the spring, when horses have been many months highly fed on
corn, they are extremely serviceable, indeed necessary; during winter
they should be used sparingly. They used to be given to race horses in
far greater quantities than they are now, having formerly had the char-
acter of being good for the wind; but perhaps the only merit they can
claim in this respect is, that they keep the body cool and properly open,
by which they conduce greatly to health and condition, and consequently
in clearness of wind. About the same thing may be said of their claims
to producing a fine coat; whatever conduces to health does so; conse-
quently carrots do. Carrots should be given whole. When first given
they are slightly diuretic and laxitive. Butas the horses become accus-
tomed to them these effects are not produced. To sick and idle horses they
render corn unnecessary. They are beneficial in all chronic diseases
of the respiratory organs. In combination with oats, they restore worn
out horses much sooner than oats alone. They should be fed raw, in
which state the horse prefers them.

‘ Cough.

Use elecampane root, horehound and smartweed, with 6 red pepper pods
to 2 ounces of ginger root. Boil until all the strength is extracted, then
strain through a flannel; to every gallon of this extract add 1 quart of
molasses. Give 1 gill a day on his feed, or from an ox horn.

Simple Liniment.

Put into spirits of turpentine all the camphor gum it will cut, when for
ordinary purposes it is fit for use; but if designed to reduce pain, add as
much laudanum as there is turpentine. This liniment is as good as it is
simple.

Spavin.

Five ounces euphorbeum ; 2 ounces Spanish flies, (fine); 1 ounce iodine,
dissolved with alcohol; 4% ounce red precipitate; 1 ounce corrossive sub-
limate; !4 ounce quicksilver; 6 ounces hog’s lard; 6 ounces white turpen-
tine; '4 pound verdigris. Melt the lard and the turpentine together, then
while hot add all together. Mix well. When cold itis fit foruse. Rub it
in thoroughly on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean
with soap suds; omit for three days, and then repeat for three days again,
and so on, until a perfect cure is made. Should it blister, use it cautiously.

Blood Spavin.

One-half pound of blood root; 1 quart of alcohol; 2 ounces of tannin,
14 pound of alum. Mix,and let it stand, shaking it several times aday till
the strength is all in the alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rub-
bing it in with the hand.

Heaves.

Take smartweed, steep it in boiling water till the strength is all out;
give one quart every day, mixed with bran or shorts, for eight or ten days.
Give green or cut feed wet with water during the operation, and it will
cure.

Magic Liniment.

Two ounces oil of spike; 2 ounces origanum ; 20unces hemlock ; 20unces
wormwood; 4 ounces sweet oil; 2 ounces spirits ammonia; 2 ounces gum
camphor; 2 ounces spirits turpentine; 1 quart of proof spirits, nine per
cent.; mix well together, and bottle tight. For sprains, bruises, lameness,
&e¢., this liniment is unsurpassed, and originally cost (which it is worth)
$100. This is the same liniment, without the turpentine, which has
achieved such wonderful cures for human ailments. For domestic pur-
poses it is invaluable.

52 RECIPES.

Horse Distemper.

Ifthe glands ofthe neckare not swollen much, give halfa five-cent paper
ofsmoking tobacco, morning and evening, in a warm bran mash, and give
no hay, but a little fine cut straw, wet, with bran mixedin. If the glands
of the neck are swollen, then apply a warm poultice made of wheat bran
and hot vinegar, changing as often as the poultice gets dry, and be sure
and get down all you can of flax seed tea—or slippery elm tea will answer
the same purpose—and let this be hisconstant drink. Be cautious to keep
the horse from taking cold in any way, and keepon a blanket, and thus
you will save many anoble animal. Be cautious never to bleed your horse
during the distemper, nor physic him any more than you will be able to
do with your warm bran mash.

Remedy for Bots.

This will remove them in a few days: Take oil of turpentine 8 ounces;
alcohol 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use. Dose, 5 ounces in the horse’s feed,
once a day for eight days, and this will effectually remove the last vestige

of the bots.
Cribbing

Is a diseased stomach—a belching of wind from the stomach.

To one pound of pulverized charcoal add 1 pound of soda ; stir well to-
gether, and give 1 tablespoonful once a day forafew days, and break up
the habit as follows:

If asimple habit, arrange the stall so as to make it impossible for him -
to crib. This you do by making the stall plain, with a simple box manger
in front, rather low, but extending the whole width of the stall. Immedi-
ately over the front edge of this plain box manger, hang a roller of akhout
six or seven inches in diameter, on pivots, which must beso arranged
that it will turn easily. This roller, extending clear across the manger,
offers the only means within reach upon which to crib. The horse, in
cribbing, will press his front teeth firmly upon this roller, pulling down
and towards him, which causes the roller to turn from under his mouth,
and he is defeated in his efforts. “There is no trouble in breaking a young
horse of this habit by this means. A very good way is to feed the horse
from a basket hung loosely by a cord to something over head. The roller,
properly adjusted, is however much the best means.

Hoof Ointment.

Take rosin four ounces ; beeswax 5 ounces; lard 2 pounds; melt together
and pour intoa pot; add 3 ounces of turpentine, 2 ounces finely pulverized
verdigris, 1 pound tallow. Stirall until cold. This is one ofthe best medicines
for the hoof ever used. It is good for corks and bruises of the feet.

Lost Appetite in Horses.

Take of powdered gentian two ounces; cascarilla, (pulv.) one ounce;
ginger, two ounces. Mix; dose, one teaspoonful in feed until acure is
effected. ;

Grease.

Two ounces flour sulphur; 44 ounce verdigris. Mix and apply after
washing.

Diuretic Drops j

Arereliable for stoppage of water, foul water, or inflammation of the
kidneys, in all cases.

Take of sweet spirits of nitre 4 ounces; balsam copaiva 2 ounces ; spirits
of turpentine 2 ounces; oil of juniper 2 ounces; gum camphor, pulverized
lounce. Mix all together and shake well; bottle, and it is fit for use for
man or beast, under all circumstances where a diuretic is required.

Dose—for a horse,l ounce in half a pint of milk, once in six hours; for
aman, one teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of milk, once in six hours.

Be sure to shake the ingredients up well before turning out for use.

RECIPES. 53

To Prevent Horses from Jumping.

Have a good firm strap halter, made to fit the head nicely, with a wide
strap stitched to each side, so as to come over the eyes. Cut holes in this
strap over each eye; over these eye-holes put fine wire cloth, supported
nicely by wire, so that it will not possibly touch the eyes. Before a horse
attempts jumping over a fence, he will put his head over to calculate the
height and distance heis obliged to jump; but by looking through the
wire cloth, everything isso magnified in appearance he is disconcerted in
his efforts to do so, and is afraid to jump.

To Recruit when Hide-Bound,

Or otherwise out of sorts:

Nit. potassa (or saltpetre) 4 ounces; crude antimony 1 ounce; sulphur 3
ounces. The nitrate of potassa and antimony should be pulverized; then
add the sulphur and mix them well together. Dose, atablespoonful of the
mixture in a bran mash daily.

Thrush.

7 Cleanse the foot out well, then crowd in fine salt, and wash with beef
rine,

Difficulties in Foaling.

The following information in regard to certain difficulties which some-
times cause the death of valuable mares, as well as the manner in which
those difficulties may be overcome, is kindly furnished for our pages by a
gentleman of many years’ experience with the equine species.

Frequently, just previous to the period of foaling, some accident occurs
by which the position ofthe colt is changed, its head turned under, perhaps,
or otherwise so disarranged as to prevent the further process of nature.
At such time the efforts of the mare in trying to effect a delivery of the
colt only render that object more difficult, by forcing everything back, the
consequent strain closing the bones, and thus acting contrary to the plan
of nature. To prevent this, cast the mare upon her back, tie a rope around
each hind foot, pass the end of the rope overa beam, or limb of a tree,
whichever may be most favorable, and draw upon it till the hind part
of her body is raised a foot or more from the floor, or ground. This throws
the colt forward, opens the bones which have prevented its egress, and
thus it can be easily handled and removed, and the mare’s life saved.

Physic Ball.

Barbadoes aloes 1 pound; syrup buckthorn 3 ounces; cod liver oil 3
ounces. Melt the whole, and stir till cold. In winter, adda little water.
Make into 18 pills, and give one every four hours, or as much as, will move

the bowels.
Wind Calls.

Olive oil 3 ounces; nitric acid 1 ounce. Rub in as much daily or every
second or third day as it will bear without starting the hair.

Stifle.

First, prepare your medicine. Take four quarts white oak bark, rasped;
pa it into eight quarts water, boil to two quarts; turn off the liquid while

ot, and add a three-penny paper of tobacco. Now let stand until a little
above blood heat. Now heata flat-iron or a brick; then proceed immedi-
ately to put the stifle in its place. Now bathe it thoroughly with the
decoction about five minutes, then apply your flat-iron as near as the ani-
mal will bear, until all absorbed. Then give the animal rest for one hour,
and if it should possibly slip out again, repeat as before, observing care
about straining for a few days.

ANOTHER REMEDY.—One ounce sugar of lead; 1 pint alcohol. Mix, and
apply three or four times a day until a cure is produced.

54 RECIPES.

Vegetable Caustic.

Make astrong ley of hickory or oak ashes, put into an iron Kettle and
evaporate to the consistency of thin molasses; then remove into a sand
bath, and continue the evaporation to the consistency of honey. Keep it
ina ground stopped glass jar.

This caustic is very valuable in fistula, cancers, scrofulas and indolent
ulcers, particularly where there are sinuses, necrosis, or decay of the bone,
and in all cases where there is proud flesh; and also to excite a healthy
action of the parts. It removes fungous flesh without exciting inflamma-
tion, and acts but little except on spongy or soft flesh.

Anti-Spasmodic Tincture for Man or Horse.

Oil of cajeput 1 ounce; oil of cloves 1 ounce; oil of peppermint 1 ounce;
oil of anise 1 ounce; alcohol 1 quart. Mix all well together, and bottle for
use. Dose for a horse 1 ounce every fifteen minutes,in a little whisky and
hot water, sweetened with molasses; continue until relieved. Dose fora
man, 1 teaspoonful.

To Cover Heaves.

Oil tar 1 ounce; oil amber 1 ounce. Mix, and give 15 or 20 drops in feed,
daily.

Harness Galls and Sores.

Care must be taken that neither the trace nor any other part of the har-
ness rubs against the sore while the horse is working. The following
lotion should be applied to the sore twice a day, with a piece of sponge.
The sore should not be rubbed, picked or fingered in any way: Acetate of
lead 4 oz.; tincture of opium, 4 oz.; glycerine, 114 0z.; water, 6 ozs.

Cribbing Horses.

The cure is very simple and easily applied. Get some pulverized cay-
enne pepper, and sprinkle it plentifully on the edge of the trough to which
your horse is hitched, so that he will suck it up with the first draught of
air. If you ride or drive out, carry some with you in a vial, and sprinkle
some on the top of a post to which you tie the horse, and he will soon fo
cured, We have known this remedy to prove effectual.

Sores Ulcerated with Proud Flesh.

Take 1 oz. each white vitriol and burnt alum, pulverize them and mix
them together, and sprinkle on the sore. Should the wound however be
deep, a solution of tb. white vitriol and one pint of rain water can be
used with asyringe. After the proud flesh is destroyed use liniment com-
posed of 44 0z. each balsam of life and laudanum; mixin a bottle and
shake well before using.

Cravel.

Give two-thirds of a tablespoonful of saltpetre in a little salt, for three
consecutive days; or take a pint of watermelon seed and boil in two
quarts of water, till reduced to nearly one-half, and drench two morn-
ings in succession. Your horse will soon be relieved.

To make a White Foot, or a Starin a Horse’s Forehead.

Take pickled mackerel and confine it on, in any shape you please, three
or four days repeating, and it will produce a white foot, ora white spot.
Rub the white saddle spots on a horse’s back a few times daily in the
spring of the year, before the coat is shed, with bacon grease, and it will
restore the natural color.

wa
BRARY OF Will

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AND

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