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THE SETTLER'S HANDBOOK
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OREGON
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BY WALLIS NASH
AUTHOR OF
♦'Oregon, There and Back, in 1877, "Of "Two Years in
Oregon," 1881, and of "Farm, Ranch, and
Range in Oregon," (published by the
Lewis and Clark Centennial
Commission for the
State of Oregon,
1904.)
Published by The J. K. Gill Co., Portland, Oregon.
Printed by Dunham Printing Co., Portland, Oregon.
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■:. vo. rii.y
Pl-
308098
ASTOR, I CNOX AND TILOCM FCUMDATieNS.
R 1906 L
Entered arrordiiic to Act of Congress in the year 10()4 by Wallis Nash, in the of^ce of tlio l.ibriiriiin of Congress, at Washinston. I). C.
Cheeked May i913
PREFACE
After the lapse of twenty-three years passed in the State I venture to publish another book on Oregon. But Avith a special purpose. The farm, irrigation, fishing, ranch, range, orchard, hop yard and timber resources are dealt with in detail. The mining, manufacturing, and commercial interests of the State are outside its scope. The absence of illustra- tions will be observed. The cost of the book has thus been kept at so low a figure that it is hoped that its general distribution may be possible. Pictures of Oi-egon scenes are found in abundance in the booklets and pamphlets issued by the 0. R. & N. and S. P. railroad companies, and the booklets prepared and issued by many of the Counties in great numbers. They can be obtained freely on application at the Railroad, Immigration and Real Estate offices.
The aim of this book is to supply practical answers to the questions which always suggest themselves to one inter- ested in Oregon through the general publications referred to.
One pleasant duty is to acknowledge gratefully the labor and interest shown by a number of correspondents in furnish- ing the information embodied in succeeding chapters. The plan followed was to prepare a list of leading questions, which was submitted to those Avhom I regarded as experts on the mattei's involved. The replies wei'e examined, com- pared, condensed and approved. But this book has been in course of preparation for many months, and many friends, met in the course of daily life and business, must have thought me a most persistent interviewer, and wondered what posessed me to be so minute, not to say inquisitive, in asking about their affairs. To all of them I am grateful, though I cannot set them all down by name. r>ut I think
6 PREFACE
I must mention with thanks, Di-. Withycombe, Director of the Experiment Station at Corvallis, who has promptly re- sponded to ever\' request; Prof. Geo. Coote, on orcliard trees and fruits; and Mes.srs. .7. M. A. Atkinson, Austin T. Bu.x- ton, J. A. Rowell, and my oUl friend Mrs. M. Hairis Whitby, Messrs. Geo. Armstrong:, Frank Butler, Geo. \. lloiuk, E. W. Cooper, A. Lyon Watson. J. 1). Ohvell, A. iJrownell. Oregon Nursery Co. of Salem, H. ('. Bateham. Disbrowe, J. H. Keating, Geo. D. Culbertson, Henry Nice, George King, C. L. Hutchinson, Wm. A. Laidlaw, L. J. Ralston. Elrod & Moore, Arlington Investment Company, The Causey Real Estate Company of La Grande, McAUen & McDonald of Wallowa, and the Hon. B. G. Leedy, Master of the State Grange.
Since this book has taken its present form several sug- gestions have been made looking to periodical re-issues brought up to date. However this may be I may be permitted to say that I shall welcome either corrections or accounts of fresh enterprises and improvements which may reach me.
WALLIS NASH. ]10 Second Street, Portland. Dec. 1st. 1904.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
The Six Great Districts of Oi-egon: 1. The North Eastern Counties.— 2. The Irrigable Districts of Central Oregon.— 3. The Willamette Valley.— 4. The Coast Region.— 5. The Umpqna and Rogue River Valleys. — 6. South Eastern Oregon.
CHAPTER II
The Farm and Its Industries.— Values and Prices of Lands. — Small and Large Farms and Ranches.
CHAPTER III
What a Newcomer Can and Should Do With Various Sums of Money. — The Opportunities in Each District. — Wages of Mechanics, Farm Labor, Hop Picking, Fruit Picking and Packing. — Cost of Building Materials, and of Farm Implements and Tools.
CHAPTER IV
How to Use and Develop the Farm. — Wheat Farming. — General Farming in Western Oregon. — Crops to be. Grown and Their Returns. — Cost of Hired Labor. — Evo- lution of Fanning Methods.
TABLE OF (OXTKXTS
CHAPTEK V
The Slock hxhistiy. — Cattle.— Sheep. — (Joats. — Hos^. Horses. — Varieties, Values, Returns, Piices.
CHAPTEK VI
The Orchard. — Cosi oi Fruit Laud — oi Orchard Trees. — Of Creating- An Orchard or Fruit Farm. — Prices and Re- turns of Existing Orchards and Fruit F:mns in Various Districts.
CHAPTER VH
The Dairy. — Development and Possihilities. — Cost of Dairy Cows.— Return.s. — Creameries. — Condensed Milk Factory. — Silo, Its Construction and Cost.
CHAPTER Vill
Hops. — Extent and Value of the Industry. — Preparation, Planting and Cultivation of Hop Vard. — Cost of Pick- ing, Drying. Packing. — Prices of Product.
CHAl'TER IX
Irrigation. — Importance and Relation to the Settler.— Values of Irrigated Crops. — Classes and Values of Irrigated Lands. — Existing and Contemjjlated Enterprises.
CHAPTER X
Transport at i(»n. — Railroads. — Elcclric K'nads. — Their Present and Future.
TABLE OF CONTENTS 9
CHAPTER XI
Timber.— Product of Oregon for 1903. — Future of the In- dustry.—Value to the Owner of Small Tracts.
CHAPTER XII
Fisheries. — Of the Columbia. — Of Tidal Rivers and Estuaries. — Partial Employment for Ranchers and Farmers. — Oyster Fisheries.— Deep Sea Fishing.
CHAPTER XIII
The Public School System. — Higher Education. — The Grange. Fraternal Societies. — Churches.
CHAPTER XIY
Amusements on the Farm. — Hunting. — Fishing
»•
CHAPTER XV
The Counties of Oregon. — Table of Lands and Assessed Valuations. — The Towns and Cities of the State.— Portland.
CHAPTER XVI Conclusions and Summary.
APPENDIX
Condensed Climate and Weather Sunmiarv.
INTRODUCTION
Before deciding on so important a matter as the change of home, occupation, and interest in life involved in moving from the East or the Middle States to the Pacific North- west, reliable information and full knowledge of the con- ditions on the Pacific Slope should, of course, be obtained and carefully considered.
Every one has been told that the climate of Oregon is mild, equable and healthful — that the land is fertile, yielding great returns in grain, fruit, cattle and sheep— that, pi'o- ductions considered, in comparison with states East of the Mississippi River, the price of land is low.
This general information may suggest a change. But how hard it is for one who has never yet taken the long journey Westwards to realize enough of the conditions of life in the Far West to feel sure of the wisdom of his course in either going or refusing to go to the North Pacific Coast.
The questions about to be answered are such as have been repeatedly put to the writer during the past two years by all sorts and conditions of men.
The replies are based on a residence of twenty-five years in Western Oregon, on repeated journeys over other dis- tricts in the State, on a wide acquaintance with representative men in most of the industries to be described, and on personal knowledge of the conditions of many of the farm- ing operations followed here.
In a work covering as wide a ground as is here attem^Dt- ed some mistakes can hardly be avoided, but the reader is assured that no care or labor has been spared to ascertain and then describe facts as they are in 1904.
It is best to preface the special information to be given
12 iXTixMtDrcriox
ill sueeiH'diiiii (•haj)hMs by a short desci-iption of Ore^i'on — the topoj^raphy oi' its districts, their climate, healthfulness, and soil — their shii)ping: facilities and markets— the chief industries as affected bv localities.
®l|i: ^ix ^i&tvtvto of (!)xuHii0Jt
CHAPTER I
THE SIX DISTRICTS OF OREGON
There are G great districts in the state, the total area being 96,030 square miles. These are of unequal size, varying soil, different climate, productions, and attractive- ness.
While there is no sharp line of division between the industries and products of the adjacent districts, yet the distinguishing features of each may be stated as follows:
Reading off the Counties in Oregon from the east of the map we see the tier of Counties along the line of the Oregon Railroad and Xavigation Company's line. We commence with Baker County, and run Westwards to Wlaseo where the mountain range of the Cascades is cleft by the mighty Columbia. Baker, Union, Wallowa, Morrow, Gilliam, Sher- man and Wasco constitute the wheat, fruit, and stock belt of the Columbia basin and its connecting valleys lying on the North and South. The Grande Ronde Yalley is here found. They emljrace also the irrigable lands of Baker, Umatilla. Sherman, and Wasco and the far famed fruit lands of Hood River.
This wide district is watered by the Columbia, and by the large and .small rivers and creeks, each with its own valley, tributary' to the great river and its branches. The Blue Mountains, with their connecting foot hills teem with mineral wealth, as yet but partially developed. But ah*eady a large and growing mining ix)pulation affords ready markets for the farmer's and fruit raiser's jiroducts. The soil of the river valleys is an alluvial loam, enriched by the washing's of the volcanic constituents of the upper levels. The rainfall varies widely in these Counties. In the U. S. weather records appears an average for Baker City of 12.42 inches for the years 1900-1-2 and for La Grande in Union Countv 19.27 iiu-lies for the two of those vears in whicli
16 SETTLER'S HAXDFJOOK TO OKEnOX
lecoids wore i)iesoivtMl. ]n the i'ruit rcg^ion of Hood Kivor the laiiil'all ol' an averajre year is about 3Si/^ inchi's, ami yet by reason of the absence of )ain in the summer months irrip:ation is needed to secure the best results.
Irrip-ation is beinjj pushed lapidly forward im all the lower lands with leniarkable success. It is not only carried on in larse undertakin.iis. but the fruit and ve^retable raiser of the little valleys leads the water from the upper levels. and turns it "with his foot" oii to his uarden i^round ami orchard. A fuller leferencc to iniization and its devel- opments will be found in a later chapter. We mark it in passing as one of the important features of this district.
The valleys of these ("ounties are but a small part of the total area. The wide intervals are made up of bare uplands which are either ranered over by cattle or sheep, or have been plowed ii|) into wheat fields where wheat farming- is conducted on a large scale, with novel and improved machinery and full forces of men and horses. Or, such spaces l)etween the valleys are covered with forests of pine and tamarack in their \ipper elevations, iricwiui: less thick- ly on the lower hills, so far as the Blue Mountain 7-e<zion extends. Many of tlic wide wlieat farms have of reccni years been divided up into half section and (|uarler section tracts. Tli(> purchasers liave been and aie tryiuir to convert the one crop system into one of fjeneral i'armin.i;. It has been found tliat several varieties of the lejruminous plants, notably Canada field peas, grow and produce well. Lai-iicly increased quantities of live stock, chiefly of hogs, are now being raised. The climatic conditions, while not as genial as those of the Willamette \'aliey or of Southern Oreiion. are yet exceedingly healthy and far less extreme tlnui in the Middle Western States. This wliolc district is bein- last settled u|) and land values are everywhere rising. Young orchards are seen. esi)ecially where the creeks afford even a small supply of water. The (juality and flavor of the crops is excellent. The fruit industry is carried out on a large scale in the many oichards which have been set out
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 17
in the lands directly tributary to the Snake and Columbia rivers, and their chief side rivers.
Even in a condensed sketch like this special mention must be made of the Hood River Valley, in the North Western division of Wasco County. This remarkable region is the valley of the Hood River, flowing from Mt. Hood and joining the Columbia just below the town. It covers an area of land which experience has shown is specially adapted to both large and small fruits, and is about 23 miles long by an average width of from 3 to 5 miles. All of it is irrigable land. Various advantages are combined in Hood River. The soil is a kind of light loam, somewhat gritty in texture, having also various volcanic constituents. The climate is bracing but genial and healthy, inviting open air work nearly all the year round. The rainfall would be deemed sufficient in most places but here the settlers will have the best that can be got out of the land, and having found by exi)erience that their fruit gains in weight, color, and appearance by irrigation, and that the value of the strawbenies in particular is largely increased by it, they agreed, in the first place, to olfer advantages to those pre- pared to provide Avater for irrigation. In March 1904, a great onward step was taken by the users of the water com- bining to buy out the owners of the irrigation system which supplies the greater part of the Valley. Thus the cost per inch of the water has been greatly reduced and the use of the same in perpetuity has been secured.
A more detailed account of fruit raising in Hood River •Avill be found in the chapter on The Orchard. It is esti- mated that even yet, from two-thirds to three-fourths of the fruit lands in Hood River are undeveloped.
The whole district in question 15 years ago, outside of the fir clad side of the Blue Mountains, was one interminable stretch of wild rolling hills of sage brush and bunch grass, varied only by the sparse settlements of the stock men, and by the pioneer settlements of those brave spirits who were
18 SKTTI.KK'S HANDBOOK To ORKCOX
venturinfj the experiment of farniiiif; in the river bottoms, and creepinfr little by little up the slu])cs. Vast herds of half Avild cattle and bands of equally' wild horses were the real inhabitants. The growth of this country in these few short years is amazinti', and even yd it is l)iit half devel- oped.
Sales of several <jiiartor sections of land in T^matilla County have been effected in ]!)04 at $2000 each, showinir a rise of almost six fold over prices of four years back, and justified by the recent retuins from wheat farmintr in this district. As in-iuation facilities are extended and its results seen, such a price will then seem as small as the fitrnres of 1899 in comparison with those of the present year.
Baker County has an area of 1,059,840 acres of surveyed land. To the end of 1903 there were 83,02-1 tillable and 275,019 non-tillable assessed to individual owners. Union County's area is 1,105,920 surveyed acres — 14.^773 tillable. 348,949 non-tillable. Wallowa County has 990.720 surveyed, and 52,890 tillable and 205.110 non-tilllablc. Umatilla County, total 1.912,320 acres surveyed, of this 381.317 tillable. 482,973 assessed as non-tillable. Morrow County, surveyed lands 1.290,240 acres, asessed 136,275 tillable. 459,975 non- tillable, (iilliam County, area surveyed 1.12S,9t50 acres, assessed 'illal>k' 143,5(37, non-tillable 189,503. Sherman County surveyed lands 426,240 acres, tillable 222,633. non- tillable 126.160 acres. "Wasco County's surveyed lands, 1.532,160 acies. assessed to owners as tillable 115.044. non- tillable 424,298.
These figures of surveyetl lands are found from the U. S. government map, the others from the records of the Counties.
Of coui-se a small proportion of the total is not usable for fanning or even for stock raising i)urpo.ses, but an im- mense area is there for the incoming settler.
The Oregon Railroad & Navigation Company's line (a Union Pacific property) is the «;nly means of connection of this huge district with the markets of the Kast and West.
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 19
A fuller description will be found later on. The immense volume of the products can be judged fi-om the stacks and piles of wheat sacks at each depot in the harvest months. The regularity of the seasons justifies the farmer in hauling his grain to the railroad station and there adding his sacks to the enormous pile, leaving it there in full confidence that no harm will come to it from weather conditions until its turn comes to be transported to the mills, warehouses and ships at Portland. Trainloads of cattle, sheep, hogs and horses for Eastern points in a seemingly never ending suc- cession prove that though wheat is king, there are other products of this great region to dispute his supremacy. When the kindly spring sun ripens the Hood River straw- berries then carload after carload of the abundant fruit is carried far and wide to less genial regions only then getting loose from Winter's grip.
The benefits of railroad transportation are being very rapidly extended to the inland valleys by the stub roads, at right angles to the main line. Thus the new comer can safely fix his home at many miles distance from the main line, if he selects a farm Avithin driving distance from the local depot already established, or about to obtain connec- tion with one or other of the North and South running roads.
THE SECOND DISTRICT
The Second District lies South of these lands, even as far as the California border.
First, are found wheat fields and cattle ranches. Then, SouthM-ards, the sheep ranches, then the irrigable lands of Central Eastern Oregon, to take water chiefly from the Des Chutes River and its tributaries.
Then come the cattle ranches of South Eastern Oregon, with their hei-ds of from one to ten thousand head, driven up to the foot hills of the mountain range for summer feed and wintering in the valleys and the wide lake bottoms. There through the bright frosty weeks they are aided by the
20 SKTTLKirs HANDBOOK TO OKKOOX
stores of alfalfa hay and of iialiiial wild -iiass hay. piil uj* each Sunimer hy the laiich men, and either hauled to the stock yards or stacked on the level hay lands of the marshes, lake edjres and creek bottoms. A ready market is found throuiihout this district for all hay not needed for the im- mediate use of the owner.
In the North Eastern portion of this Second ])isti-ict is the mineral belt of Baker and Grant Counties— the most fully developed and most valuable miiiiiii: district in Orejron up to this time.
The Nortiiern Counties are the scene of nnu-ii lailroad building and «'.\tension — to which reference will lie made hereafter. The lonj;- processions of wheat wagons and wool wagons to one or other depot of the main O. K. tJc N. line Avill soon be gone forever. But the main features of the country are unchanged. For thirty miles in ^lay I have rid- den through a sea of bright green wheat, knee high, and vivid — broken only by substantial farmhon.ses, each with its l)elt of trees, its young orchard, and home lot. It was in Umatilla County that seeing a large three cornered tield of wheat l)ehind the blacksmith sho]) where two roads met, the question was asked, flow long has that Held been in wheat and what did it rai.^e last year? The answer came shari)ly back. "Kvery year for over thirty years, and it raised t)ver 3.") bushels an acre last year."
Keturning then Northwards to the Cohnubia liiver at the Western edge of Wasco County we enter the narrow sliji of Multnomah County and follow the Ctdumbia to its junction with tlie Willamette. Twelve miles up tlie Wil- lamette Portland is reached, the chief city <•! Oregon.
Portland is opening her gates wide to all nations for the Lewis and Clark Exposition of 100.'), to which, as the Cajiital City of the Oregon eountiy added to the Nation as the ulti- mate fruit of that memorable journey of discovery, she has special claim.
Few, if any, cities staml better than Poitland, for nat- ural beauties of position and for business, manufactures and
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 21
commerce. Backed by the whole of the gi'eat State which is compelled by its topography to pour its treasure into her lap— standing at the Northern edge of the four millions of acres which form the Willamette Yallej' — supplied with tens of thousands of horse-power by the Willamette and the Clackamas Rivers, which, converted into electrical force even now propel her street cars, light her sti'eets, houses and factories, and drive the wheels of a thousand industries, with a reserve force to fill the requirements of many decades yet to come— offering safe and ample harbor berths for the shipping of the Eastern and Western hemispheres — placed on the direct line between the Orient and the Occident. What greater natural advantages can she ask? Situate like London, at the head of ocean navigation, where the cars and the ships meet, blessed with mild and healthy climate and with an abundant supply of the purest and coldest water, sti-aight from the snow of Mt. Hood, it is no wonder that Portland shows continuous and healthy growth. Her rise of population within the knowledge of the present writer, (from 26,000 in I.'??') to 140,000 in 1904) is evidenced by the solid and costly structures of her churches, schools, banks and business blocks, and the tasteful homes of her citizens. Prosperity and progress mark the metropolis of Oregon today.
From Portland Southwards for I'Ao miles stretches the great Willamette Valley, varying in width from 25 to 40 miles — the garden of Oregon, and indeed of America West of the Mississippi. Nine Counties lie within its natural boundaries, the Columbia on the North, the range of the Cascades on the F'ast, the Coast Range on the West, and the Calipooia Mountains on the South.
Naming the Counties from North to South there will be found Multnomah, Clackamas, Washington, Yamhill, Marion, Polk. Linn, Benton, and Lane.
THE THIRD DISTRICT This is the Third District in our division. Irrigation is
'>•)
SKTTLEK'S IIAXDHOOK T( » OREOOX
not needed. ;i> the rainfall varies from nearly 40 inches annnally at Portland t(. about 40 inches at Hujjene. But the three months June, July, August receive only 2:32 inches of rain, on an averajie of years at a point midway in the Willamette \alley. Consequently many of the prudent dairy farmers in these Counties secure themselves by the use of the silo against the comparative dryness of the grass feed during these months. The weather summaries for 1901 and 1902 are given in appendix A for three i>oints, North, Middle and South of the ^■aIley. from the official figures of the U. S. Weather Bureau. The facts appear to justify the boast of any old Valley faraiei-. ''the tinest cli- mate in the Avoild, Sir!"
Rainy? Certainly it is, and no one once acclimated would have it otherwise; but the rain comes when it is wanted, and stops in ami)le time for the ingathering of the bounti- ful crops, and for long weeks enough for both work and play, for counti-y man and city man alike. Year by year, the seasons are so regular that one hardly stops to speculate on what the weather "will be. but procee'ds to arrange for work ov l)lay in easy reliance on sun shine or rain, as the months pass by.
That the general features of the Willamette Valley Counties should be identical is no wonder to one who grasps the geological histoi-y of this favored district.
Here let me pause to acknowledge my indebtedness to Prof. Thos. Condon of the State I'niversity. the Nestor of Oregon Geology. His recent book. "The Two Islands,'' vividly brings to one's eyes the original wide exjianse from the Rockies to the Pacitic. ocean coNcred. broken only by the two islands, the one now appearing as the Blue Moun- tains of Eastern Oregon, the other as the Siskyous between Oregon and California. The gradual ui)heaval of tiie West- ward slope of the Cascades and then of the Coast Range of Oregon, was followed, long ages afterwanls by the great volcanic outburst which has left us the snowy cones of Mt. Rainier. Mi. St. Helens. Mt. Hood. :\lt. JefTerson. the Three
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 23
Sisters, Mt. Thielsen, and Mt. Shasta, which, one long chain of mountain sentinels, watch and protect these modern States of the Pacific slope.
But the upheaval of the two ranges, the Cascades, and the Coast Range, left between them the great sea inlet whose watei's covered the whole expanse from the Columbia to the Siskyous. By slow degTees the barriers rose which excluded the ocean waters, and for further long ages a fresh water lake filled the great basin. The waters burst their rocky dams, the Columbia drained the waters covering the Inland Empire of Washington and Eastern Oregon, the Wil- lamette those of its wide Vallej'. But the fertility of the ag'es to come was provided for in rich deposits of decaying vegetation, great and small, left by the retiring waters.
The Valley is walled in on both sides by the hills of which basaltic rocks are a chief component. Their gradual weathering and decay under the recurring rain, frost, and sunshine set free the gritty particles, waslied down by every creek and rill, which further enrich the Valley soil by the liberated phosphates and keep it porous and open to the gently falling rain of Western Oregon.
From this age long preparation comes the enduring fer- tility which ensures a home of comfort and prosperity to every man Avho owns 50 acres of Willamette Valley soil, provided that he on his part devotes to it the same energy and industiy which in less favored dimes secures but a bare subsistence.
Only in the river bottom and the neighboring lands is the surface of these Counties level. But a mile or two away the gently rolling character appears. Nearer to the Cascades the plain is dotted at wide intervals with "buttes" — the last islands of the great lake which showed their heads above its watei-s. Their sides, marked by terrace above terrace of sandy rock, show the gradual subsidence which exposed them one stage at a time to the free air. The side river courses through the Valley (and there are many of them) are marked by dark belts of fir timber — the course
24 SKTTLEK'IS HANDiiOOK T(» OK'KdOX
oi tilt' Willaiuette itself by masses of soft woml trees, wil- lows, cotton wood, white poplai', bass-wood, white lir. of lii-eat licifrbt and thickness. But a few years ago this timber was called worthless, nowadays the steamboats tow jrreat raits to the paper mills of Oregon City every year, and many thousands of feet of softwood are utilized in several of the industries of the city.
While from the Valley proper much of its firs and oak limber has already been cut, yet enoufih is left for a timber supply of many years to come, and hardly one Valley farm is without its few acres of accessible land where either fir or o:ik can be obtained I'oi- all purposes of the farm and the house. There are yet many hundred acres of grub oak land, sienerally of soil excellent for either wheat or fruit. Cord- wood to burn in the cities has .so risen in price that in many instances the value of the wood will either pay for the clearing- or go a long way towards it.
Farming industnes of all varieties are followed on the ^'alley or lower foot hills farms. For several years past efforts have been successful in every County to substitute mixed or general farming for the wheat which was king everywhere twenty years ago. In those days the wheat re- ceipt from the warehouse for so many bushels stored was as good as U. S. currency, and many a farm has been pur- chased by the transfer of wheat receipts with a small sum of money to adjust balances.
The most marked development has been seen in the introduction tirst of tiic creamery and just recently of the condensed milk factory. Within about tiv«- yeai-s ovei' 300 creameries have been called into existence, and most of them have })rospered. It is the commonest of wayside sights to notice the cieam cans set at the farm gate to be gathered up by the cieamery wagon, or to be carried lo the nearest raili'oad depot. Tiie results are seen not only in the largely increa.sed number of calves, hogs, and chickens on the fann. but in the payment off of old mortgages and in the increase of the l)alauce at
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 25
the bank. But a few months have passed since the kirye condensed milk factories at Forest Grove and Hillsboro. in Washington County, 25 miles from Portland were set in operation. These factories in the winter of 1903 and spring of 1904 were paying $1.50 per 100 pounds for milk, and Avill very shortly require the jiroduct of 12,000 cows — accord- ing to present indications.
The large Donation Land Claims of the original settlers are being veiy fast broken into smaller and more manageable holding's. The habit of life of these early settlers was, in very many instances to be "land poor." That is, to own by taking, purchase, or inheritance many more acres than they had capital to develop or stock to feed on. This method was the fruitfal cause of the mortgages, debts, disrepair, and neglect. The results are even j^et apparent in so many paintless farm houses, and decaying tumble down barns, and decaying fences which offend the eye in traveling up and down this 135 miles length of productive land. It is a frequent question by the Eastern visitor, "Why in the world with land so good, so evidently fertile, are the build- ings and improvements so poor and neglected?" It is a fairly good answer to make, * ' Suppose that the present owner of that farm had by some means got four or five hundred dollars to spend on fixing up and painting his house, repairing and neAv roofing his barn, and building over his fences, how much more per acre would you have been asked for the farm, and would have willingly paid? Be content to buy at the low point and do your own improve- ments, and raise your own values."
AVith the reserve ah*eady made, that o» ory Valley County will produce what any other will, if the farmer tiirns his efforts to any special end, it may serve to direct intending settlers to their desired haven and home to say that, in addition to what is known as "general farming" followed everyw-here, the following named Counties j'ield excellently Avell of the special products of the farm :
Multnomah. — Affected by its nearness to Portland, tree
26 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
fruit, berries, jwultiy and e<i.<rs, iK»rk. potatoes, onions and other vegretables.
Clackamas. — Also a larfi:e jjereenta^f of small farms with similar industries. Some hops in the river bottoms. ^luch timber, both saw timber and cordwood. Many partly cleared farais. Good Land. Land values changing rapidly under the influence of the new electric railroad running from Portland for 45 miles through this (,'ounty. but still the average price of land is low.
Washington. — On the West side of the Willamette, veiy close to I'ortland on its Northwest side. A good deal of timber in tlie parts farthest from city, railroad, and river. Rich land, dairy farms, well watered and wooded, meadows deep in grass, fine stock, fruit, good farm houses, large barns, prosperous and ])rogressive. Rolling surface. At- tractive homes.
Yamhill.— Adjoins Washington on its North side, bounded on the East by the Willamette River. Large areas of rich bottom land in hop yards, vegetables, and small fruits. The uplying lands toward the West in larger farms — all pro- ductive, and adapted to both grain, dairying and stock. One of the oldest settled Counties in the Valley. Many small, and some large orchards of winter apples, pears, prunes, and cherries.
]\rarion. — Lies South of Clackamas on the East side of and bounded on the West by the Willamette River. Mucli of the County is ti'ibutary to Salem, the State Capital; a city now of almost 15,000 people. The productions of Mar- ion County are notably excellent and diversified. To name them is to catalogue all the features of Willamette Valley faiTDS. The P^astern edge of the County runs up into the heavy timber of the Cascades. It is bounded on the South by the North Santiam River, broken into waterfalls and cascades with a hundred water powers. The Waldo Hills lie Northeast and East of Salem, a red soiled district of rich wheat latul. well established farms, comfortable homesteads, line blooded stock. The district bi'iween Salem and the small
THE DISTRICTS OF 0REC40X 27
towns, Staytoii, Silverton, Macleay, and so on, to the East, is level in character, dark grey in color of soil, porons in tex- ture, and is characteristic of the Yalley. A good deal of timber is found in the Eastern part of the County. The whole County has been well settled for many years, with valuable, well improved farms and successful farmers.
Polk County. — Lies on the West side of the Willamette River, betAveen Yamhill and Benton. Some of the best hop yards in Oregon are in Polk County, and the industry has attained large propoi-tions. It is not confined to the Wil- lamette bottom land, but is spread over many lands Avi thin a distance of a dozen miles from the river. Stock of all varieties do exceedingly Avell. Many of the farms are large, the improvements in houses and barns expensive. This County runs up into the timbered lands of the Coast Range where various saw mills are at work. The County seat, Dallas, is a prosperous, grooving town. Some of the best blooded stock in the State, especially in sheep and goats, are raised in Polk County. The Angora Goat Association has its headquarters and annual exhibitions here. More detailed accounts of both sheep and goats will be found in the special chajiter devoted to them.
Linn. — Is a very large and important County, bounded by M]arion on the North, Lane on the South, the Willamette River on the West and the summit of the Cascade Moun- tains on the East. Rich in timber and minerals as well as in all the resources of the faim and range — abounding in water poAver — rich and generous soil. Farms varying in size from 1000 acres to 50— and Aarying in farming industries as Avidely as in size. In the level bottoms by the Willamette hop yards abound on the black rich soil, the dry-houses form- ing a feature in the landscape. The Albany pi-airie is knoAvn over the State for its fei'tility. Daii'ying is throughout caiTied on most suecessfulh'. Co-operation among faiiners has taken root ; the granges are links in the social life of many districts. Co-operative dairying succeeds, and the creamery at Albany owned b}- and managed on behalf of
28 SP:TTI.KH'S handbook to OREGON
the contribiitary stcickholders has proved a success for many years. Albany, the County seat, on the East bank of the Willamette, the crossing place of railroads from four di- rections, and where the river steamboats also do an import- ant business, has various and successful manufacturing in- terests, and is growing fast.
Benton.— On the West side of the Willamette, bounded by Polk on the North, Lincoln on tlie West and Lane on the South. Has very little wild or uncultivated land in com- pari.son witii other Valley Counties. The soil is fertile throughout, ranging from the hop yards of the Willamette and Long Tom bottom lands, to the hill pastures, grain and stock farms of the West and North of the County. Cor- vallis, the County seat, a pretty town of 2200 people, is known by the location there of the State Agricultural College, its Experiment Station and farm. The college proper has noAv about 550 students, recruited from eveiy County in the State, and a few from a greater distance. Fuller infor- mation on this head will be found in the chapter on Educa- tion. Benton County lias a large nunihci- of well improved and valuable farms. On the slopes of the Western side of the County is much oak and grub land, dotted over with many oak trees of large size and value. When cleared it is often found that the value of the grub oak as cordwood l)ays the cost of clearing. Benton has already received a considerable immigration of Eastern fanners who are bringing Eastern methods of cultivation and habits of life into the Willamette ^'alley. But there is I'oom for many more. Many large young orchards, of both apples and prunes, have, in this County, supplanted the moss hung trees so often suiTounding the homes of the older settlers.
Lane. — The largest of the Valley Counties. Lies South of Linn. It runs East to the top of the Cascades, and this ])art of the County is largely covered with magnificent for- ests, with ia})id rivers and logable creeks to bring the tim- ber from the mountains t.. the Valley mills. In the Eastern ))ail (if the Cotinly arc also I'ouiid mining districts of great
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 29
productiveness. The Eastern part of Lane County has many stock ranches. The cattle range through the summer on the upper foot hills of the Cascades, where the timber is inter- spersed with glades and openings of rich grass. Through the lower lands, where the McKenzie and the Willamette Rivers draw to their junction, much valuable hop ground is found. Many very fine orchards are here seen and the most pro- ductive soil. The greater part of the County East of the Coast Range is rolling in surface, adapted to small holdings, as much of the land still needs clearing, though its native fertility well repays the work. Eugene, the State University town is the County seat. A most thriving little city of about 8000 inhabitants and rapidly growing. Lane County faims command higher prices than in many districts, favored as they are especially by soil, climate, good transportation facilities, and increasing population. The part of the County West of the central part of the Coast Range will fall to be described with the Coast region for the ocean is its Western bovuidary.
A few miles South of Eugene the foot hills of the Cascades stretch Westwards, called here the Calipooia Mountains, and join hands with an Eastward outjutting of the Coast Range. So the Southern boundary of the Wil- lamette Valley is formed. Being neither a high nor rugged and continuous barrier there are many openings, through one of which just South of the city the Southern Pacific raih'oad finds its way.
This short sketch of the Valley and its component Coun- ties may well be closed Avith the short statement which fol- lows. The area of land within these 9 Counties is officially stated to be 5,125,979 acres. Deducting the hilly and moun- tainous regions to the East and West leaves about four million acres in the Valley proper and the lower foot hills. Allowing 50 acres to a family a population of 80,000 families could be supported in comfort and prosperity — that is, be- tween three and four times the number of the i)irstMil in- habitants.
30 SKTTLKirs IIAM)li(H)K TO (iHIKiON
Till-: l-Ol KTll DISTKICT
The Coast region of Oiegoii has a marked chaiaotcr oT its own. It ooniuiences in fact on the Coliunhia Hivci- where the Willamette joins it — 12 miles below Poitianil and liohls similar cundititins throughout. Excei)tion shouUl he made, though, of the region immediately at the mouth of the great rivei-. 1 1 resembles in its soft moist climate ihe West coast of Norway, where the boast is that it rains 13 months in the yeai-— and is like it also in the thickness and luxuriance vi the vegetation.
The whole fract now in (jueslinu is shared between tim- ber and dairying, with a good manj' cattle ranches inter- spersed. It is a regi(tn of surprises, billy and broken in surface, but sheltering many a cosy Valley with its group of settlers' homes. Its drawbacks are the distance from rail- roads and large towns, for there ai'e but two railroads in the whole length of Oregon which at this time connect the interior Avith the Coast. One of these, the Astoria & Columbia Kiver, follows the gieat river from Portland to its mouth at As- toria, and is extended for some miles down the Coast. The second, the Corvallis & Eastern, reaches Westward from Corvallis to the Coast at Yaquina, and Eastwards for 50 miles into the splendid forests of the Cascade Range.
But the dairying interest has grown to great dimensions. Creameries, and cheese factories have been established at many jioints on or connected with the bays and estuaries and all are prospering. It has often been remarked that life on the ranches of the tide lands and ujilands of the Coast is the easiest and most natural to be imagined. A few acres of clearing on which the house, barn and orchard are found. Fruit free from all pests, ben-ies of fullest flavor, vegetables of unu.sual si/.e and beauty. Clover and all grasses, potatoes and root crops for the cultivated lands, and tide lands yielding rich, lush, grass all the year round. A few cattle and a little bunch of sheep and Angora goats provide the small funds once a year which pays for the
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON 31
groceries and clothes of the family, and the taxes, -whioli are almost the only demands recognized as pressing. Clams abound on the tide flats, salmon and salmon ti'out in their seasons, floundei's sea perch and kelp fish, and an occasional sturgeon in the bay help out the family dinner, while the deer are close by in the hills, and the close times of the game laws mean little or nothing on the Coast. Generally one or more salmon canneries are established on the bays, and for two months of the year the males of the family are out each night with the nets on the dark still waters, drift- ing slowly on the incoming tide. An easy life indeed. Many so find it, and there is room for manj' more. The timber industry of the Coast Counties will receive attention latei- on. In this region we include Columbia. Clatsop, Tillamook, Lincoln, part of Lane, Coos, and Curry Counties and part of Douglas West of the Coast Range.
THE FIFTH DISTRICT
It remains to notice the Umpqua and Rogue River Val- leys of South Western Oregon. A favored region. An Ital- ian climate and a soil that is second to none in kindliness and productiveness. These wide Valleys lie between the Cascades and the Coast Ranges, with various openings through the latter to the ocean. Valuable minerals are found in each of the ranges, in fact it seems as if nearly the whole soil of Josei)hine County were impregnated with gold.
A considerable rainfall in the winter months supplies water for the long flumes which convey it to the placer grounds. The working over of the ancient gravel and rock beds of long extinct creeks and gulches by this means is so economical that it is said tliat 5 cents per cubic yard in gold is a satisfactory return on the capital invested. Needless to say that a far higher per cent is usually relied on. The recent developments in the discovery and working
32 SETTLHirs HANDBOOK To OREGON
of quartz veins in the several mining districts of this repon tlo not fall within the so»)pe of this hook.
It sulTiecs to say that a larjre itopulation is beinji attract- ed, which is one of the factors which contribute t(» the rise in values of farminfr and orchard lands.
It is ditlicult to call tn mind a single industry of the farm, ranjic, garden, and above all the orchard, which does not flourish in these Counties.
The rainfall varies with the elevation of the hunl. At Koseburg, the County seat of Douglas County, the elevation is 523 feet above tide water, the rainfall on the average of IfmO. 1, and 2, is 34.4.") inches. At Grants Pass, the County seat of Josephine County, elevation 964 feet, the average rainfall of those thiee years is 32.97 inches. At Ashland, near the head of the wide Rogue River Valley, the most Southerly town in Oregon, close to the Siskyou Mountains, the elevation is 1940 feet, average rainfall 20.63 inches.
In the Umpqua Valley, in Douglas County, a good many hops are found, dairying prospers, there are many orchards, and much stock is raised of good grade, e.specially on the Valleys through which the Umpqua River itself finds its way to the Pacific. The soil of the Valleys is the usual alluvial loam, of the u]dands the red soil impregnated with iron. The uplands are well, but not too thickly wooded. The .sloping foot hills of the Cascades yield much tir and some l)ine of good quality. On the lower rolling uplands the oak grows to a good size. The rmp(|ua Valley is well settled, the ])eopl(' are ]>rosperous. and tiiere is much to attract the new comer.
The Rogue Kiver \allcy is only less in size than the Willamette Valley, the Harney Valley of Eastern Oregon, :iMd the Umpqua in length, but not in l)readth. Both in soil and climate it is not excelled for fruit culture by any region of the Pacific slope for diversity as well as beauty of its products. It yields abundantly in melons, peaches and grapes, as well as in the apples, pears, and |)runes for which it is perhaps moi-e widely known. Some years ago
THE DISTRICTS OF OREGON" 33
the writer made a journey over these lands from Grants Pass as a center. In one peach orchard an addition of young trees two years old was shown to us. Tlie owner brought us to one youngster with stem not thicker than one's thumb. The three or four limbs extended for nearly 6 feet, and on this baby tree we counted 47 well developed peaches. Its owner apologized for the exhibition, saying that he had neglected to cut the limbs back, and then, seeing the extraordinary show of blossom, left it alone to prove what a two year old could do.
The show orchard is perhaps the Ohvell Orchard at Central Point. One hundred and sixty acres, 12,000 trees, eleven or twelve years old. Remarkable for the evenness and uniformity of growth. Every tree seems to be a model, and yet exactly like its neighbor. The fruit, carefully picked and packed, goes to the East and Europe, where the prices are such as to testify to the front rank in all the world that the Oregon apples hold.
The fame of the Rogue River Valley is spreading fast. Various sales of both orchard lands, and young and mature orchards have recently been made. There seems to be noth- ing in sight to check the upward prices, for such products command their markets without the smallest fear of over- production, large though the area be. The three Counties, Douglas, Josephine and Jackson, have acreages of surveyed lands of 2,096,640, 529,920, and 1,506,720 respectively. And the assessment returns for 1903 give Douglas 93,360 acres tillable and 1,457,971 acres non-tillable; Josephine 18,745 tillable and 316,881 non-tillable and Jackson 87,007 acres tillable and 888,414 acres non-tillable. Making ample al- lowance for mountains, hills, and the wilder and less desir- able regions there are yet here many thousand acres to be brought under the hand of man.
All the region South from Portland to Ashland, is served by the Southern Pacific railroad, which I'oad owns four lines in the Willamette Valley. Soutli of Eugene the main line
34 SETTLER'S ILVXDBOOK TO OREGON
of the Southern Pacific is the only means of communication. A more detailed reference to transportation facilities and developments will be found later on in the chapter de- voted to that subject.
THE SIXTH DISTRICT
South Eastern Oregon is divided into two great sec- tions. 1st. The semi-arid rolling hills and plateaus South of the Des Chutes, Crooked River, Harney and Malheur Valleys. Inaccessible from railroads, with a very scattered population, chiefly interested in stock. This whole region is awaiting development. There are no considerable towns. It is known that there are great mineral resources which will be actively taken in hand whenever the transportation facili- ties are provided. 2nd. The lake region along the Cali- fornia border line. This is an ideal stock country. Great efforts have been made of recent j'ears to improve the breeds of cattle. Thorough-bred sires of great value have been introduced. This region's supply of cattle is driven to one or other of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company's sta- tions in Northern California, chiefly. I am told, to Montague, and tliere shipped to San Francisco. Large sums of money are invested in these undertakings and outsiders would bo surprised at the volume of the banking Iransaetions of this district. The cattle spend the summer generally in the mountains and the winter on the low lying Valleys sur- rounding the ranches.
®U? ^avtxx^ rtn^ it& ^jibxt^trlc^
CHAPTER II THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES
The succeeding chapter aims at placing the inquirer in possession of facts which will determine how far various sums of money will go in purchasing, stocking, and setting work going on a farm in the various districts and in the several industries which have been described.
The tenns and conditions prevailing in this year, 1904, on which such farms can be purchased. The cost of mater- ials for farm buildings and improvements, and the descrip- tion and cost of equipments. Which farm industry may best suit the reader can be determined by study of the chap- ters dealing with each of these industries in turn, and supplying details of cost, condition and profits.
It cannot be too strongly urged that the new comer should be most careful to buy no more land than his means permit him fully to stock, to farm, and to improve. It must be ever borne in mind that a man does not earn money by the possession of land but by the profitable use of it. The more land a man owns in excess of what he can turn to full account by stocking and working it the poorer he is.
From a careful examination of the prices asked by many agents and individuals for farming lands, ranches and fruit lands in the several districts in the earlj- months of 1904 certain facts appear.
The prices vary in accordance with differing conditions. These are, the nearness to markets, and to towns, and . centers of life large and small — cost and methods of trans- portation of the products for sale — the comparative fertility of soil as bearing on the nature and on the value of the products — the cost and the coiadition of the structures, house, barns, sheds, silos, granaries— the comparative area of culti- vated land — the fencing — the Avator supply — the sheltered
3S SKTTLKirs IIANDHOOK TO OKKHc^X
or exposed nature of the lands— whether access can be had to out range — the cost of continuing and completing im- provements, such as the vai*yiug cost of clearing in the var- ious localities, and last, not least, the climate of the different districts, not only in point of pleasantness for residence, but as bearing on the nature and excellence of the products, and the growth of stock.
Now, it is not suggested that the owners of farms and ranches which they are thinking of selling sit down with these ideas and are possessed of the necessarj' knowledge to fit their demands to the facts in their own cases and so adjust their prices. This is not their business. They have the right to ask whatever they think their prop- erties are worth. It is the buyer's part to acquaint himself with values so as to base a reasonable estimate of worth on the facts of the properties and their pro- ductiveness and desirability to himself and his own powers and wishes. He can so feel satisfied that he is not giving more than the fair market value, and also that he will not afterwards go through the act that we in the West call "kicking himself" because he has bought what he does not want.
A Avise friend of mine who came from England some years ago to settle in Oregon devised and carried out a plan that seems to fit the case perfectly. In his case the plan worked well. Other new comers can be advised to adopt it.
Before explaining it let me say that it is not wise for a new comer strange to the land and all in it, to strive to "see it all" before he settles down to buy. The settlers' tickets to Oregon give the holders the right to go through to Ashland, the extreme Southern town without extra cost. The new comers too often have not made up their minds before hand on the main questions — what industry they are best fitted for— how much money they can afford to spend on purchase — and therefore in which of the great districts they ]»r()])ose to settle. The majority bustle through to Ashland
THE FARM, AXD ITS INDUSTRIES 39
and then part or all the way back to Portland. The State is so large, the scenes so varied and attractive everywhere, the journey so long, that by the end of it there is a confusion and muddle in their brains which does not tend to the calm, sensible decision on merit which it is their duty and privi- lege to make. They see just the strip through which the train runs and frequently pass hastily by the very districts they ought to examine and judge of.
Now my English friend 's plan was this : Before starting to see various farms in the Counties he had chosen as best adapted to the stock industry which was his special busi- ness he made out a list of ''points" which he copied into a good sized pocket book thus: "A perfect ranch, 100 points made up of these : 1. Climate ; 2. Nearness to markets ;
3. Fertility ; 4. Condition as to improved cultivated
land ; 5. Pasture ; 6. Outrange ; 7. "Watered
by living creeks ; 8. House ; 9. Barns and out build-
ings^ : 10. Orchards ; 11. Garden and small fruits
; 12. Nearness to post office, school, church, store ;
13. Possible industries and development ; 14. Cheapness
of desirable improvements ; 15. Roads ."
Of course no two people will agree on the way the points for the perfect fann should be distributed. But probably the following allotment is not very far out of the way. And any reader who desires to tiy can make a list for him- self, and fill in what he thinks should be the perfect distribu- tion of points and leave blanks to fill in for each farm as he finds it.
Perfect As it Appears
1.— Climate 12
2. — Nearness to markets 7
3.— Fertility of soil 20
4. — Condition as to improved and cul- tivated land 7
5. — Pastui'e 3
6. — Outrange 5
7. — Watered by living creeks 5
40 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
8. — House 4
9. — Barns and outbuildiiii^s 4
10. — Orchards 5
11. — Gardens and small fruits 2
12.— Neame.ss to i)()st office, school,
church, store 7
13. — Possible industries and develop- ments 7
14. — Cheapness of desirable improve- ments 5
15.— Roads 7
Total 100
It will be seen that the tixed unchangeable features re- ceive high figures. Those that a buyer can change if he sees fit lower figures.
Now if when finishing the inspection of a farm a prospec- tive buyer will think it over as a whole and then fill in blanks with such figures as he consideres fair when comparing the farm he has just seen with such a farm as he can imagine to be exactly what he wants in all these particulars, then when- ever he adds his third column up he will get the proportion the farm he has seen bears to the perfect farm. Ft>llowing the same process with each farm he goes to see the buyer has a reliable basis of comparison and if he chooses the farm that has the highest number of points the only questions left for him to solve are if the price is right, and if his means allow him to buy at that price. At any rate he will know the farm he ought to buy if he can.
It must be remembered always that the wide variation in price in case of lands in the same district should be ac- counted for by the several properties differing in the ways above referred to. Unless such difTerences on insjiection justify the price asked the inference is plain that the price is too high.
The importance of tiie Northern ami Eastern tier of Counties is so grer.t that «'ach may be taken in detail and
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 41
the nature and price of the average farm given, using the same method as is followed hereafter. That is to examine the particulars and prices of a large number of farms offer- ed for sale, to ascertain the average size, area of cultivated or cultivable land and the average price asked.
We commence with Baker County, finding that while the farming lands, properly so called are confined to the Valleys of the Burnt River. Powder River, John Day, Pine and Eagle Creek Valleys, and their smaller tributary creeks, yet both the grain farms, and the large and important stock industries spread over the surrounding hills. While irri- gation is always here desirable and is necessary to produce alfalfa, yet even on the upland farms wheat, barley, oats and rye are successfully grown, though the rainfall and melted snowfall averages on ten years only 13.38 inches. Taking 12 farms in the unirrigated districts, but all well improved with good houses, all fenced, accessible, and desirable, we find they average 375 acres in size, have 53.55 per cent of cultivated land and are offered at average pricees of $30.50 per acre. 8 farms with a good proportion of irrigated land average 485 acres in size, give 58.50 per cent of cultivated land, at an average price of $33.40 per acre. Unimproved land within 4 miles of Baker City is selling at from $10 to $15 per acre.
Taking next Union County there appear great varieties in value and consequently in price of land. The Grande Rondq Valley is an altogether exceptional region. Well watered by river, creeks, and springs. A bright and bracing climate. Rain- fall average of 24 inches. Size about 35 by 18 miles. 300,000 acres of agricultural land. Produces wheat, barley, oats, rye, hay, hops, fruit, red clover, vegetables and last not least, sugar beets. The establishing at La Grande of the great sugar beet factory doubled the prices of real estate in the district affected. The factory handled in 1902, it is under- stood, 18.000 tons of beets for which the growers received $4.50 per ton or $85,000 or thereabouts. It may be taken that under these favorable conditions grain land farms are
42 SETTLER "S 1L\NJ)1'.UUK TU UKEUON
offering at from $30 to $65 per acre, beet lands at from $50 to $100, fruit lands at from $50 to $150 per acre. There are 3 creameries and a steady demand for butter fat at from 30 cents to 22 cents per pound. Stock does exceedingly well on the sun'ounding hills.
Wallowa County. — Contains over 2600 square miles. Wa- tered by numerous rivers and creeks flowing through the one principal Valley and so into the Grande Ronde River. The farmin<i lands of the County lie in the lower, middle and upper Valleys. The famous Wallowa Lake at the extreme Southern end of the upper Valley. Were it not for the 25 mile stage drive by which W^allowa is reached, from Elgin on the 0. R. & N. this lovely county would be far more widely known, as indeed it deserves to be. But in spite of this the county has a jjopulation of between 5500 and 60UU people. If this Avere a guide book full descriptions of the loveliness of this high mountain-surrounded Vallej', with the deep lake in placid beauty reflecting the encircling heights, would be expected. Mention would surely be made of the o-ame and fish which create, with their surroundings, out of this county an ideal pleasure ground. As it is, more prosaic facts are that good irrigated farms, with deeded water rights well improved, can be had at from $30 to $60 per acre. Farms of good land, not irrigated, fairly well improved are worth from $10 to $20 per acre. These lands raise excellent wheat, barley, oats, alfalfa, and red clovei-. Summer fallow- ing is still followed generally on the upland farms.
Umatilla. — This large and important County witliin its borders offers to the farmer, orchardist, and stock man the fullest opportunities. Although tlie average total precipita- tion in rain and snow for several years is only about 16 inches yet there are many successful irrigation systems al- ready in full operation. The temperature is remarkably uniform, the mean being just 54 degrees. In the irrigated Valleys fruit ripens well indeed, large quantities of peaches and melons being produced. On the ujjlands are some of the
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 43
finest wheat farms in the country, in spring the whole huid- scape is a sea of green. Land prices offer a wide range, as must be expected — from $30 to $50 an acre for improved wheat farms and $50 to $100 per acre for irrigated lands. There are several prosperous towns in the County. Pendleton the County seat is of considerable importance and large pop- ulation. A good deal of thoroughbred stock of all classes is raised in the County.
Morrow. — This County lies between Umatilla and Gilliam, also fronting North on the Columbia River. Essentially a pastoral and agricultural region. The County seat, Heppner, is connected with the main line of the 0. R. & N. by a bi'anch line about 40 miles long. The rainfall of about 15 inches suffices to mature the grain crops, which are very large. Wool is i^roduced also with great success, Heppner being one of the largest shipping points. Land prices in this County are about parallel with those of Gilliam County, and the conditions the same.
Gilliam County. — A comparatively newly formed County fronting North on the Columbia River. Both grain and stock are produced as principal industries. The price of land within the past two years has more than doubled. Good farms suitable for combined farming and stock raising can still be had for from $8 to $12 per acre. Farms with from 80 to 85 per cent good farming land, the balance rough pasture, but with fair house and improvements are worth from $12.50 to $20 per acre. The best farms, well improved, with plenty of water, can be had for $18 to $25 per acre at this time. Wheat, barley, and alfalfa are the principal crops. A good deal of fruit is raised also. A large trade is done in cattle, sheep and hogs. It is expected that 3 million pounds of wool will be sold at Arlington this year. New settlers are going rapidly into the County. Three sur- veys for a railroad from Arlington to Condon have been made by different companies. Summer fallowing is much followed, and efforts at diversified crops are being made.
Sherman County adjoins Gilliam on the East and runs
44 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
to the Columbia on the North. Has about 4000 population. They claim that their taxation is so low that a man owning 160 acres of land that would sell for $3500 has only about $12.50 to pay. It shares with Gilliam the class of farms that produce both gi-ain and stock. The Valley lands also grow excellent vegetables and fruit. Prices of land have risen 75 per cent during the past two years. Fair land of average quality cannot be bought for less than $15 per acre. For good, well improved land with plenty of water and near a school from $20 to $30 per acre is now asked.
Wasco. — This great County, the last in this list, follows for 66 miles the Columbia River as its Northei'n boundary and lies between Sherman County on the East and the sum- mit of the Cascade Range, which is the "Western boundary of the County. It extends nearly a hundred miles from North to South and takes in a large part of the Waiin Springs Indian Reservation. On the Northern fringe of this County are found the widely- known fruit Valleys, of which Hood River is the chief, although Hosier and The Dalles are ship- ping points for fniit in quantities and of size and quality which would attract genei'al attention and exercise a wider drawing power if Hood River were not so near. While these fruit lands command very high prices, varying, unplanted, from $50 to $75 per acre, and in fruit such prices as are based on the size, quality, and age of the trees, wheat and stock farms, well improved, can still be had for figures which bear comparison with those in the other Counties to the East of Wasco. The Dalles is held to be the most important wool shipping and marketing point in Oregon, at any rate before the construction of the Columbia Southern railroad with im- mense sheds at Shaniko caused the shipment there of great quantities previously hauled for from 100 to 200 miles to The Dalles. Wasco County land is very fertile. Tho.'ie who faiTn large areas of it are uniformly prosjierous.
In the wheat belt of North Eastern Oregon prices in the Spring of 1904 for farms of from 100 to 320 acres, all cul- tivable, range from $15 to $20 per acre for medium land
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 45
with fair house, and fenced, and one day's hauling distance of the railroad depot, to $50 i3er acre for choice land, well located and furnished with young family orchard, good house, with well or creek, and ruoi'e or less creek bottom land. In such cases all the lands should be fenced and be plow land, but all lands, or nearly all, are under the summer fallowing system, so that only one half the total area is jirodueing grain in any year. And these farms yield little else but wheat or barley for market. While there are many wheat farms of verj' large size, yet the majority of the large tracts are devoted to stock as well as wheat. In such cases the price of a large tract will be very greatly reduced. A very good authority gives the cost of wheat raising on the 160 to 320 acre farm at from 35 cents to 40 cents per bushel in this district, allowance being made for a reasonable interest on the purchase price of the fann and for taxes. And the yield on the qualities of land above referred to varies from 25 bushels an acre on the poorer land to 45 bushels on the best average. In exceptional cases even a greater return is found.
It maj'^ be noticed in passing that a purchaser may boi'- row from one third to one half of his purchase price in most eases, even if he fails to make terms with the vendor for time payments when he buys. Many of the wealthy wheat fanners of today Avere glad to make a beginning on a large proportion of borrowed money.
Many men get their start in this region by renting farms. The rental usually asked varies from one third of the crop on the poorer quality of laud to a larger per cent when the land yields large returns. Many of the 320 acre farmers get on with one heavy and one average team of horses. The best farm machinery is the cheapest.
When dealing with the great stock ranches of Middle and South Eastern Oregon an utterlj' different mode of valua- tion comes into play. The ranch itself is just the heart and center of a wide undertaking. It is so placed as to command
46 SETTLKirs TTANDBOOK TO OREGON
or control tlic l)t'st accessible water supply. It is not coui- ])lote without several hundred acres of alfalfa land, irri;j;ated. and yieldintr three crops a yeai-. Whether sheep or cattle be the chief object it is not expected or desired that the band or herd should be kept within call of the home ranch. Rather is it a point that there be not too distant an out lange of wild forest or wooded grounds on the flanks of the not too far oft' mountains whore the sheep or cattle should spend the heat of summer on their cool grassy slopes. Tlie lanch and its neighborhood must provide a winter feedinsr ground where the summer stoics of wild hay, lake grass, and aifali'a from the irrigated fields may be fed out in case of need.
The last ranch of this order the sale of which came within the writer's knowledge covered 11,000 acres of purchased and deeded lands. But the herds ranged over nearly as many miles as there were acres in the offered property. The price asked was $7 per acre.
The pressure of the incoming settlers for several years has been crowding back the large ranches still deeper into the wilderness. The wire fence round one 160 acre home- stead has joined the next up the creek bottom, till the range rider's territory' grows ever less. Not without friction and quarrels, great and little. Sometimes it needs a resolute and a l)i:ui' man In hdld intact his homestead rights. For such 160 acre homes from .fl5 to $25 an acre is asked now.
The price of fruit lands in the Northern Counties varies so Avidely that it is well nigh impossible to suggest average figures. In buying fruit land in the rough for i)urposes of the future orchard the cost of clearing is a veiy imj)ortan1 item to consider. Tn the ITood River district wild brush and timber land similar in soil to the best of the existing orchards is on the market at from $40 to $100 per acre, and this land will cost not less than $50 jier acre to clear and get ready for Ihc trees, possibly a good deal more. One of the recently formed fruit land companies in Southern Oregon, offers, in print, to plant out orcliards of the best varieties for those who buy from them for $25 per acre.
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 47
It is safe, I think, to assume that the actual cost of planting' out an orchard, when the work is hired to be done, will fall well within those figures. More precise information is given in the chapter on "The Orchard." All that is necessary to be done here is to give enough details to enable a new comer to figure out the probable cost of buying land to set out in orchard.
Taking then the next district. The Willamette Valley. There is not a wide difference between the average of prices asked in all its eight Counties for farms, well improved, and within three miles distance from a large tt)wn and rail- road depot, but the prices of individual farms are wide apart. There are a large number of small farms in each County. Their acreage ranges from an average of 24 acres to 65 for farms under 160 acres, and fi'om 132 acres for the larger farms to an average of 482 in the different Counties. The prices vary of course — but the comparison of the prices asked in the Spring of 1904 for several hundred farms offered in various land lists through the Valley Counties, and the examination of the descriptions of the properties has yielded some inter- esting results.
In the first place the calculation of the percentage of cultivated land on the farms of less than 160 acres offered for sale gives the following figures :
Clackamas 44. %
Columbia 75. %
Washington 41. %
Yamhill 77.50%
Marion 45.44%
Benton 53.18%
Linn 74.40%
Lane 05.50%
• Total 476.02%
Average 59.50%
Showing that tlie purchaser of even a small farm has
4S SKTTLKR-S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
a lai-e area of laud to clear, improve, and cultivate, where- with to increase the value of his property.
The cultivated land on the larger farms shows the fol- lowing; percentage of area :
Clackamas 44.50%
Washington 44.30%
Marion 46.23%
Yamhill 43.36%
r'olk 44.55%
Linn 42.92%
Benton 30.50So
Lane 53.79%
Total 349.65%
Average 43.70%
NOTE.— Several large fai-ms lunning into the foot hills have reduced the per cent in Benton County.
In giving the figures on prices it must always be remem- bered that figures good today may be raised tomorrow. There is no fear or hope that they may be reduced. But the inevitable result from every effort to show things in Oregon as they are is to bring more buyers into the market and .so stimulate still farflier the rise.
Tliis being premised the following figures are given as the result of averaging a large number of offei-s of faims in the several Counties named: Clackamas Countj'. —
Average price of farms within four miles of
Oregon City, ]ier aero $ 52.9«
Between 4 and 12 miles of Oregon City, per
a<'e 35.65
Columbia County.—
Small farms. ])ci- acre 41.41
Washington County. —
Small farms, per acre 53.82
Larger farms, per acre 38.62
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 49
Yamhill County. —
Small farms, per acre 119.66
(In this calculation a large proportion of orchards
and hop yards are included). Larger farms, per acre 21.50
Marion County. —
Small farms, per acre 46.11
Larger farms, per acre 35.76
Polk County.—
Larger farms, per acre 22.70
Linn County.—
Larger farms, per acre 23.28
Smaller farms, per acre 52.15
Benton County. —
Small farms, per acre 33.10
Larger farms, per acre 21.00
Lane County. —
Small farms, per acre 32.88
Larger farms, per acre 26.44
We proceed to give some idea of the nature and value of the farms and ranches in the Coast region.
No general rules applicable to the whole can be deduced.
There is a Coast line of about 420 miles from the con- fluence of the Willamette with the Columbia down the Col- umbia to its mouth and following South the Western Coast of Oregon to the California line. The same general con- ditions of climate, in mildness, equableness, moisture, temper- ed heat in summer, tempered cold in Avinter, apply. The bays and inlets, South from the Columbia are Nehalem, Tilla- mook, Nestucca, Siletz, Yaquina, Alsea, Yahatz, Siuslaw, Umpqua, Coos and Rogue River.
This whole region is shut off from the interior by the Coast Range, everywhere involving a joui-ney of from 24 to 48 hours before the great Valleys, Willamette, Umpqua, and Rogue River, are reached. But one railroad crosses this range, the Corvallis and Eastern, covering 71 miles from Corvallis in the Valley to Yaquina, close to the ocean, and
50 SETTLKKS JIANDBOUK TO OREGON
landing the traveler from Portland at the ocean beach in eight or nine honrs.
Most of the other Coast Valley districts are dependent either on stage roads, horse trails, or on the steam schooner traffic on the ocean to conect them with each other and with the world within.
In nearly all the Bay districts creameries or cheese factor- ies are at work. Generally launches ply on the estuaries and navigable rivei's and creeks to bring the cream down to the creamery.
Consequently the rich tidal estuary lands and the river and creek bottoms have become part of daiiy ranches, each of which in turn is the central home, controlling herds of cattle which find all the year feeding ground in the surrounding woods. Many of these ranchers have also invested in sheep and goats which do excellently well. In most of these bays lumber mills of varying size are found, for the timber of the whole district in fir, cedar, spruce, and hemlock is mag- nificent. Some of the forests tributary to these bays hold the largest timber in Oregon. The tide land spruce is gen- erally considered the forest king for size and symmetiy.
The value and accessibility of the timber on many of these Coast range ranches is always to be considered.
Furthermore, on all the larger Bays salmon canneries are found. Of these a more detailed account will be found hereafter. Notice here that the possibility of well paid work in the late fall in connection with the cannery for about two months in the year is not to be forgotten when thinking of the Coast region for a home.
The Columbia River and Tillamook ranches are the source of the larger part of Portland's supply in dairy products. On the rivers, the large and small stern wheel steamboats call for and carry off the products. On the bay steam schooners are kept at work all the time on similar errands. Dairy ranches in Tillamook are reported to be selling at from $50 to $70 an acre, but to be quite rarely obtainable.
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 51
The whole community there is prosperous. Further down the Coast, at the smaller bays, and on the estuaries and river bottoms that run far into the land, the ranches can be cheaply had. From $10 to $15 an acre will purchase one of these amphibious farms. The boat is more in daily use than the wagon. The water is the general highway. Every ranch has its band of cattle or sheep, very often some goats. Much cream goes to the creamery. The manager of the Albany Creamery told me that he was glad to get that hill land cream — it gave a special flavor to the butter.
There is very little desire yet shown among the new comers to go far enough afield to buy these Coast and hill ' land ranches — various reasons for this. It takes a long day and some money to get there. Before the Coast side of the range is reached the Willamette Valley, with all its attrac- tions, or the Umpqua, or the Rogue River, must be entered and crossed. Then come a good many miles of rough hill land before the journey's end. And the Coast lands are broken and varied- — narrow valleys and broad hills, much timber and brush'. Then the country is not yet thickly settled. Towns are small and communities scattered. Al- together a general sense of being at the rough West end of everything.
If there is any more to be said against the Coast region I do not know what it is. Let us look for a moment at the other side of the picture.
The land is cheap. Acre for acre possibly from one third to one half the prices of the lands we have been considering. The country is beautiful. Some of these Coast land homes, overlooking a baj', grassy slopes to the blue water, splendid trees backing the view, a wealth of roses and honeysuckles over the house, verdure, greenery, impressing itself on all sides, show us some of the loveliest scenes in Oregon. Here if anywhere it is true that Kai'th smiles if you tickle her. Such gardens, such small fruits, and vegetables ! Stock of all kinds enjoy life. Very rarely indeed in a course of years do either sheep or goats require or receive any care or feed-
52 SETTLEirs JIANDBOOK TO OKKdoX
ing: winter or summer. Silos and the stuff to till tliem are never thoujrht of. A barn full of rouj^h but very sweet hay is all the provision for the Winter. The cattle are sold to the butcher in December straight off the range.
People have so far been contented with very small im- provements. Most of their lands are as they settled on them in the rough. But how easy and how cheap it is to clear, sow, and stock them. The greater part of the brush laud can be contracted to be cleared, so far as slashing the brush, and leaving it ready for the lire, is concerned, for from five to seven dollars an acre. Grass seed and clover seed costs but little when most of it is gathered by sweeping up the barn mow and the horses' mangers. And the change from brush to pasture takes but one year. In four years more the brush stumps will have rotted, if enough goats are kept to eat off the young shoots and undergrowth, then the rough becomes the tame pasture, or groAvs grain for the service of man or beast.
Viewing all that has been written on improving Eastern Oregon or Valley lands I honestly believe that a quicker and as durable return can be had from improving by clearing a Coast land farm. And the proportion of return to expendi- ture 's in this last case the greater. The impression must not be left that this Coast region is not progressing. On the contrary on all the chief bays good towns are found. Besides lumber Coos Bay has close to it valuable and developed coal mines, besides good promise of railroad connections which will be mentioned in the chapter on railroads.
The dairy lands on the Bay are Hrst class and the new condensery offers a constant and lucrative market.
Many of our Scandinavian citizens have already found how specially this Coast region is adapted to their modes of life and industries. Many more can l)e freely invited to settle there. There is ample room.
It remains to mention what is generally called Southern Oregon, more properly South Western Oregon. Three great Counties, Douglas, Josephine, and Jackson make u]) this-
THE FARM AND ITS INDUSTRIES 53
region. The Northern part of Douglas County lesembles the Southern part of the Willamette Valley in a general
■way. But holds many large tracts with valuable improve- ments used mainly for the stock industry.
Douglas County has a good many hop yards, which do well. Quite an important dairy interest, especially in the river valleys, has been developed.
On most of the Valley farms a large quantity of stock is raised and they are susceptible of use in general farming on the lines that have been described. The towns, Roseburg, especially, are growing rapidly. An important mineral district adds to the business. Wliliile the fruit industry is important it does not predominate as in the region further South about to be mentioned. Land in Douglas County has begun to grow in value fast, but taking an average of the farms in one large list the average size turned out to be 550 acres and the average price only $12.18. The climate of Douglas County is very genial. Rainfall at Roseburg averages 34.45 inches for the years 1900, 1, and 2.
The County of Josephine, with Jackson, I have often heard described as the Italy of Oregon. It is a fair simile. The climate is bright and pure, the air clear, rainfall so close to the desirable mean of dryness that irrigation is sometimes resorted to. A region of fruit. On the outskirts of the great Valleys are many dairy and stock farms. Wheat and corn both do well. But fruit is in the air. A rapidly in- creasing population shows that the attractions of this favored region are getting more widely known. Here as in Hood River the best fruits are grown, best for variety, quality, appearance, and keeping qualities. Not, as in the Willamette Valley, is the orchard an adjunct or side show to the farm, but the fruit is the main industry and assuredly the maiji profit of the whole investment made.
While fruit growing is already on a large scale in these Counties, yet its success has opened the gate wide to a very great development. A very large area of land has been examined and found suitable, and is now being cut into small
54 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
fruit farms of five and ten acres. Under a stimulus of this kind prices have been rapidly risin.ir. Under such circum- stances, in a district of limited area it is impossible to offer any figures as averages. It may be stated in general terms that for ranches and farms for general purposes from $15 to $35 per acre is a fair estimate.
For fruit lands — that is, not orchards, but lands neii^h- boring on orchards and i-esembling them in general character of soil, exposure, and advantages of transportation— for these all kinds of prices are asked, ranging from $75 to $150 an acre.
Each intending buj'er will have to make his own selection and determine his own course. Of course to pay $150 an acre for ten acres, the full returns from which cannot be expected for seven or possibly eight years to come, requires a good deal of faith, Avhich ought to rest on nothing but a calm personal examination of the w'hole industr}- and situa- tion. Naturally iu addition to the purchase of the land still further sums have to be invested in fitting the land to receive the trees, planting, and caring for them, and in building and furnishing a house and packing shed and other necessaiy improvements.
^Ixc ^smev'& ®rt1-^ttal
CHAPTER III
HOW FAR THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL WILL GO
Taking note of the facts and conditions above given we can now offer suggestions as to what a new comer can do with various sums of capital at his command when he arrives in Oregon.
Wie start with the possession of $1000.
Can he venture on buying land?
Yes, if he, (and not in a much less degree his wife if he be happy enough to have one who divides his responsibilities and takes up her share of the burdens) have not only the will to labor, but some knowledge of the kind of work the owner- ship of a partly tilled and cultivated tract of land involves.
Such a buj^er must get some distance back from large towns and railroad depots, but can not afford to settle too far from school. The rural free delivery routes now cover so much mileage that the weekly loss of a day by the trip into the town, chiefly to get the mail, may be avoided.
A faiTQ of 80 acres, with a small house and barn, a cleared field or two, and often a family orchard, can be still chosen for $10 an acre, or $800. Our buyer can pay down $400 and have two years to pay the balance at 6 per cent interest. He has $600 left. By careful purchases he can get a wagon and small team for $175. Eighty sheep for $240. One cow for $25. One sow for $10. Two dozen chickens for $8. Plow, harrow, harness, for $50. He will have $92 left to buy his stove and absolutely necessary furnishings and for a start in flour and groceries until he has butter and eggs to begin trading with. The first labor he puts in should be on a good garden. I am confident that the produce of half an acre will go a very long way to keeping the family.
As to the kind of stock to buy, its value and returns he will find fuller information later in this book.
58 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
One solid resolve he must make, if he means to succeed from the start, is never to go to town or trading point with- out something to sell or trade, and never to leave more money in the town than he takes out of it, except for such neces- sary purchases as he and his partner, (if he has one,) agree on beforehand.
So much for the $1000 man.
Take now the $2000 capitalist. How will he spend it?
He is still to confine himself either to a small farm nearer city or railroad or in the fruit districts, or else to a larger acreage, either in the foot hills of the Counties describ- ed, or in the Coast region. In the first case he can buy for $2500 a farm of eighty acres, fifty in cultivation, fair house, barn, fruit, and well watered, three miles from a good town. This is a representative offer. Paying half, or $1250 down, he has $750 left. He can expend this as follows : — Wagon and team $175. Twenty-five sheep $75. Twenty-five goats $100. Five cows $130. One sow $10. Two dozen chickens $8. Plow, harrow, harness, ect. $50. He has a balance of $202 to buy, stove, necessary furnishings, and stock of pro- visions.
If the new comer desires to become a orchardist there are two methods open to him.
The one to examine for himself in the fruit districts to find at a price within his means some small fruit farm, part in apples, remainder in strawlicrries and other small fruit. Bearing in mind that strawberry growers in the Hood River district have made for several years past from $100 to $250 an acre return, and that apples of the Yellow Newtown and Spitzenberg varieties have yielded net $2 a box or a little fiver, which at 4 boxes to a mature tree repi'esents about $G00 an acre it is obvious that our friend would have in either the Hood River or in the Southern Oregon fruit belt to content himself with a very small and partially developed place. In the Willamette Valley, especially in the district tributary to Portland, he could do a good deal better. Some .small fruit and chicken farms of ten acres or less have been
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL 59
sold for $200 an acre or thereabouts, with large barn and orchard. The second plan is to become a buyer of one of the five or ten acre fruit land tracts which have been put on the market recently to meet the demand, espeeialh' from East- ern people for a small fruit ranch.
In this case in either Hood River or Southern Oregon, the buyer has to buy land, sometimes to clear it, then plant the trees, then btiild his house, fruit and packing house, etc., and then wait for the trees to come into beai'ing. While waiting, and for the first three or four years of the time, about two thirds of the plot could be utilized for other crops planted between the fruit trees. Some authorities decline to sanction this last practice hoAvever. Corn grows and matures well throughout the Rogue River country. For the average quality of fruit land $100 an acre is asked, payment being spread over two years. Twenty-five dollars per acre is asked for planting out the land in good fruit trees. It will cost the buyer not less than $550 to build his house, fruit house and outbuildings. So that $1800 Avill be absorbed in the investment, leaving him $200 only for other and current out goings. Probably a man in such a case would find op- portunity to earn money during the waiting time before his trees come into bearing.
Take now the man with $2000 Avho proposes to buy a partly improved farm, to be chiefly used for the stock in- dustry, and who is willing to place himself a short distance from town and railroad.
Extracting the first nine of such farms as we find them described in the printed list of an entirely respectable agent in one of the Counties on the West side of the Willamette Valley and averaging their size, cultivated area, distance from town and railroad and price asked, the following results appear: The average size is 172 acres, cultivated land 27 acres, distance from town or depot 3y2 miles, price $1470. In most cases there is available outi-ange for the stock.
Our purchaser then pays half his purchase money or
60 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
$735 and takes two years for the balance at six i^r cent. He
has $1265 marfjin. How shall he expend this? Suppose he buys
6 cows at $30 $ IfiO.OO
5 two-year-olds at $15 75.00
5 yearlings at $12 60.00
50 sheep at $2.50 125.00
50 goats at $40 200.00
Team of horses 200.00
2 sows 20.00
2 dozen chickens ■'^•OO
$ 868.00 He must have
A wa.ucn $ 70.00
Harness '-5.00
Plow 10.50
Harrow 14.00
Rake :^0.00
Tools '-^5.00
$ 174.50
Total $1042.50
This leaves him a margin of $223 for furnishinir and for food. He must hire his hay crop cut by one of the neighbors until he can afford to buy a mower of his own.
With the increase of capital to $5000 other and wider opportunities are otfered. Every one of the districts men- tioned is open to the choice of the new comer. If he takes to the wheat farais of North Eastern Oregon and the Colum- bia linsin he can buy 320 acres of land at $20 and i)ay
Half down, or $3200.00
His outfit of 2 teams (heavy and light), wagon, Inifkboard, harness, plows, harrows, drill, harvester, tools, etc., will cost him just about 951.50
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL 61
He should have
2 cows 60 00
3 sows 30.00
Chickens 6.00
96.00
Total $4247.50
Leaving him a margin of $752.50 for furnishing, living and current expenses until the next crop comes in.
On the 320 acre wheat farm the yield on the one half in crop each year should not fall below an average of 4000 bushels.
If instead of the wheat farm the owner of the $5000 capital decides on fruit, let us see what he may expect to obtain.
If he goes to Hood River and takes time to negotiate for what he wants he will be able to have the choice either to buy about 20 acres of fruit land, with from 5 to 10 acres of Winter apples in bearing, with house, fruit house, and other necessary out buildings, land on an irrigation ditch, and needed appliances to go to work at once, and possibly a few acres in strawberries, for about the $5000 he has. A small amount reserved out will take him through till the crop comes in.
Or else he can buy a larger acreage of grown orchard and leave up to one half of his purchase money on mortgage for two years.
If the buyer prefers to buy a larger acreage, clear it, plant his own trees and strawberries, and do his own work of clearing and impi'ovement, he will at the end of six years find that he has made a most profitable investment. With $5000 I believe an 80 acre tract of suitable land can be bought, and the work of improvement carried on, and the subsistence of the family provided for within these figures. If present values are no more than sustained Inr the next few years, and if sufficient foresight is sliowu lo keep out
02 SKTTI.Kirs llAMtl'.ooiv TO OHKCOX
of debt ineanwliile a tract of SO acres thus handled means a fortune.
The detenniniufr factor in estimating the probability of present piices being maintained both in Hood River and in Southern Oregon lies in the solid fact that the most beauti- ful and valuable Winter apples in the world are the Yellow Newtown Pippin, and the Oregon Spitzenberg. Only in cer- tain limited districts can perfection in growing this fruit be reached. The above districts make and maintain their claim to be the tirst among the chosen few.
But if the new comer with $5000 desires a general pur- pose fai-m, either in the Willamettie Valley, or South of it in the choicest part of Douglas County, the ai-ea of selection is very large.
As stock of one kind or another will be a main consid- eration with him, he will find facts which will certainly, and advice which will ])robably, be of value to him in later chapters.
In choosing his faiTn the same principles should govern, namely that the value of the land to him will be determined by the profits he can make off it from year to year not by the selling value.
Therefore that he shall prefer a smaller fanii thoroughly stocked and provided with good implements and labor-saving tools and appliances, to a much larger area cheaply eciuipped.
To the larger capitalist, commanding, say $10,000, still more opportunities are offered. Besides the wheat farm, the fruit farm, and the general purpose farm, stock raising and ranching on a larger scale are very attractive to the lover of fine blooded cattle, sheep, or goats.
For this industry Western Oregon has tracts offered now for sale of from 1000 to 2500 acres at prices varying from $5 to $15 per acre. In such a case the buyer within those prices can expect a good house, good barns, a family orchard, living water on all the principal subdivisions of the property. Enough timber for all improvement and current purposes, and very often some to sell to the nearest mill. A varying
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL 63
but a considerable proportion of cultivated land, and a further acreage in tame grasses and clover is also to be almost invariably found. Such prices prevail at distances of not less than a hundred and twenty miles from Portland and from three to ten miles from a railroad depot.
If locations within 100 miles of Portland are desired the price of the land will rise to about $12 to $15 an acre, buj the general character of the ranch will be as described above. Naturally there are few tracts of a size adapted to a stock ranch to be had at any reasonble price within easy distance of Portland, or indeed of any of the larger cities of Oregon, close to railroad transportation.
"When trades are made for the purchase of farms, orchards or ranches it is customary for the seller to a.sk payment down of from one quarter to one half of the pur- chase jn-iee, and to offer to allow the balance to stand for as long as can reasonably be asked by the buyer, at six per cent interest.
Farm mortgages in Oregon are considered excellent secur- ity. For a good manj' years abundant capital has been ac- cessible for this purpose at the State rates. Six per cent is the statutory rate at present.
-Many persons prefer borrowing from a public source to putting themselves in private hands. The State School Board at Salem controls the lending out of the School fund, which embraces also the sums received from the sale of lands al- lotted by the U. S. to Oregon for support of the State Agri- cultural College and University. While the rules of the Board are strict and thoroughly adhered to yet money is always to be obtained by an honest borrower who is contented with the one third of the appraised value of the property on which the loan is sought, and whose property stands the ex- pert examination to which it is always subjected. So long as the interest is paid and the conditions of the mortgage observed as to maintaining the property in good order the State loans are not called in. The borrower feels safe in the hands of the Board.
64 SKTTLKliS HANDJIOOK TO OREGON
There are various loaning companies doing business in Oregon, most of them supplied with foreign capital. Their business is well mana.iied and satisfactory, so far as generally known and reported. Ample funds seem to be always on hand to meet all reasonable requirements.
Questions about wages in Oregon are put by mechanics desirous of coming here and earning money to help pay for land purchases they make, and also by persons intending to buy land and inquiring as to the kind of farm labor ob- tainable and the rates of pay. It is of course to be under- stood that tlie rates mentioned refer to 1904. Structural mechanics' wages may be stated at $3 to $4 per day for hou.se carpenters, $4.50 to $5.50 per day for brick an«l stone masons, $4 to $5 for lathers, $2.50 to $3 for i)ainters and decorators and $2 for general laborers, $2.50 to $3 for helpers to brick and stone masons. Blacksmiths receive $3.50 to $4.
Owing to the great number of buildings of every nature being erected this year in Portland, but also in other cities and towns in Oregon, there is a large demand for qualified labor. The erection of the buildings for the Lewis and Clark Exposition of 1905 also involves tlie employment of very many hands.
Farm labor is in a different category and varies widely in rates with the experience the man has had. It may safely be put at from $25 to $30 a niontli with board tiie year round on the dairy farms. Experienced milkers obtain $30 and board without much difliculty. (iood farm hands ask the same, but generally get about $25 a month and board for the months from October to April and $30 a montli and board from Ajiril to October. In hay and grain harvest from $1.50 to $1.75 a day is paid. The demand for good farm labor is increasing beyond the supply. For tlie past two years there has been general difliculty in getting men who know their business and who will stay by their work. Young men who are intending to obtain eventually homes in Oregon will find it to their advantage to hire out for the first vear. and
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL Go
learn the methods in general use here Avhieli differ widely in many respects from those customary in the East. A man on the farm here must turn his hand to almost anything. On every Avell ordered fanu and ranch there is a workshop, always fitted with carpenters' and often with blacksmiths' tools. The uniform practice in the State Agricultural College is to pass every male student through the classes in car- pentering and blacksmithing. On my own ranch I have many times found the advantage of having boys qualified by this training.
Hop pickers' j^ay is at rate per box. Recently it has not fallen below 40 cents per box, and I think in some yards 50 cents a box was paid this year.
Fruit pickers are also jDaid either by the box, receiving for apples 2 to 3 cents a box or from $1.50 to $2 a day. These rates prevail in 1904 both in Hood River and in Southern Oregon. In Hood River in 1904 the uniform price for picking strawberries was 11/2 cents a box and 1/2 cent for packing, making 48 cents a crate for picking and packing.
A family of father and mother and one son go evei'y year to the hop picking from my immediate neighborhood. They are generally absent about three weeks, camping out at the hop yard. They usually bring back about $100 after paying- all expenses. While they are, perhaps, unusually industrious yet the average return is about $90 for such a group. A German family, father, mother, and three boys from 10 to 14 years old, came to a small Valley farm last July. They postponed taking jiossession until after the hop and fruit harvest was over. The mother told a friend of mine late in September that they had made $5 a day since they started to work.
Last February the gas was just lit in my Portland office, and shone on me as I wrote. A man stopped as he passed in the street, then came in followed by a bright looking girl of about 16. He was roughly but Avarmlj' dressed Avitli ruddy cheeks, and a ready active bearing. He said, "Don't
66 SETTLKR'S HANDBOOK TO OKEOOX
you i-emember me?" 1 answerod *'Y(iiir face is familiar but I cannot recall your name nor whore I met you." He said, "Don't you recollect talking: to me once or twice in the office in Chicago rather more than a year ago?" "Now I remember you," I said, "You are an engineer by trade, and you wore a foreman in some large works when you talked with me about coming to Oregon? Vos. and you told me you meant to make the change while you wore young enough to get some good for yourself out of life, and not quite old enough to be turned oiif. " "That's right" my friend said, " and I took your advice right away." Well, do you regret it?" I said. "Not much," he answered with a broad bright smile, "I'll tell you what I did. I got ready to sell off everything and came out myself a j'ear ago. I had not monej' enough to buy a fai'm readj' made, so I bought 80 acres of rough land, and set about cloaring it and building a house. In May my wife and four children came out. As soon as your strawberry' season came on the whole lot of us went to picking, from there we worked South into the Wil- lamette Valley, I Avorked in the hay field some, then the whole family went to hop picking and then to fniit picking. To make a long stoi-y short 1 should like to take you down to the boat at the wharf; we are going back to the ranch in the morning. There's $250 worth of furniture and sui>plios for the Winter on board of her all paid for by our Summer's work, and the rest of the Winter we are all going to put in on the ranch. My wife has gained twenty-one pounds in Avcight since she came out and is a stronger woman than she has been for years. We never enjoyed a Summer in our lives as wo did camping out under your Oregon sky, and now there's one thing that tickles me, and that is to be in bod for a bit in the morning without hearing that cussed old factory whistle."
So we shook liands and parted, the girl Hashing a bright smile at luc as tlicv passed a^ay in the darkness.
Tiie same fjualitios tliat made that man a foreman over SO machinists at tliirty fi\<', and kept liim at that work, will
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL C7
ensure his success at this side of the world — A very safe prophecy.
Very often the question comes, ''What shall we have to pay for farming implements and machinery in Ore- gon? Is it better to take with us to Oregon what we have, or to buy fresh out there?"
To answer this at first hand the two following price lists are given: the one furnished by a long established firm in one of the Willamette Valley towns, the other from a similar firm in Eastern Oi-egon.
Western Oregon —
Farmer's Open Buggy $ 45.00
Farmer's Top Buggy 05.00
Bain Wagons-2y2 inches T. S 76.75
Bain Wagons— 234 inches T. S 81.25
Bain Wagons— 3 inches T. S 82.25
Bain Wagons— 3i^ inches T. S 90.00
Oliver Chilled Plows— No. 20, 12 inches. . 10.50
Oliver Chilled Plows— Xo. 40, 14 inches. . 11.00
Oliver Chilled Plows— Xo. 50, 16 inches. . 14.00
_ Steel Plows— 12 inches 14.00
Steel Plows— 14 inches 15.00
Steel Plows— 16 inches 16.00
Rolling Harrows— 6 ft., 12-18 in. Discs. . 32.50
Rolling Harrows— 7 ft., 14-18 in. Discs. . 36.50
Rolling Harrows -8 ft., 10-18 in. Discs. . 40.50 Spring Lever Steel Frame Spike Tooth
HarroAvs, 25 Teeth per Section 7.00
Spring Lever Settle Frame Spike Tooth
Harrows, 30 Teeth ])er Section 7.50
Monitor— 14 Bar Hoe Diill 75.00
Monitor Drills— 14 Bar Shoe Drill 83.00
Monitor Drills— 14 Bar Double Disc Drill 95.00
Monitor Pipe Frame Seeder— 14 Bar. . 57.50
McCormick Xew 4 Mowers 50.00
McCormick Harvester and Binder 145.00
G8 SKT'J"LKR"S ilAXDl5()UK To oHKCoX
McCormick Hay Ifakfs-0 loci 30.00
Spray Pumps $:).00 to 30.00
Garden Tools —
Hoe.< .25 to .65
Rakes 25 to .65
Spades 75 to 1.50
Shovels 75 to 1.50
Spadiim- Forks 7.") to 1.00
Log Chain, .'^-S incli, per pound .OS
Log Chain. 1-2 inch, per pound .07
Plain Galvanized Fence Wire, 11, per lb. .04
Plain Galvanized Fence Wire, 12, per 11). .041^
Plain Galvanized Fence Wire, 14, per lb. •04y2
Barb Wire, Galvanized, per pound .... .04
Cook Stoves $12.00 to 30.00
Cast Ranges 27.50 to 45.00
Steel Ran-es 30.00 to 65.00
Axes, S. B 75 to 1.50
Axes, D. B 1.00 to 1.75
Steel Wedges, per pound 10 to .15
Store Cash Prices for the Following Implements and Tools in a Good Country Town in Eastern Oregon —
1— Farm Wagon— 3 inch with box, $85.00.
2— Oliver Chilled Plows-14 in., $12.00; 16 in., $13.00.
3— Steel PloAvs— $1.00 per inch.
4 — Rolling Hai-rows— $45.00 up.
5 — Steel Frame Harrows— $S.00 per section.
6— Drills-16 Hoe, $95.00.
7 — Cultivator-s — Various from $8 to $50.
S— Mowers— $60.00 to $65.00.
9— Binders-6 feet, $165.00; 7 feet $170.00. 10 — Sprayers, of one or more sizes and values, $12 to $18. 11 -Rakes— 10 feet, $37.50. 12— Garden TooLs— Hoes, 25c to 50c; Rakes, 40c to 60c.
13— I^iogiring Chains— 7 to S c per pound. 14 — Fenc«' Wire — Plain and Barbed — Hog Fence 35c i"od; Barbed '3\->v per pound.
THE SETTLER'S CAPITAL 69
15 — Kitchen Stoves and Furniture— $20.00 and up.
16 — Axes, single and double— $1.00 to $1.50; Wedges 15c per pound.
17— Farmer's Buggy, plain and cheap in price— $60.00 to $100.00.
18— Present prices of nails — 5c per pound; $4.00 per keg.
Many new comers have the chance of buying parts of the old Donation Land Claims, and other large holdings now broken up into smaller properties. To them the question of building materials in Oregon is of consequence, and some knowledge of the style of buildings necessary may be of advantage.
In this year 1904 the lumber mills in the Willamette Val- ley and in Southern Oregon are asking the following prices :
For common rough lumber, $7.50 per 1000 feet (the meas- ure of 1 foot being 12 inches square by one inch thick). Sized rough $8.00. For second class flooring- $17.00 flat grain, $22 vertical, per 1000 feet. N. B.— This quality is amply good enough for any usual fann house.
For rustic, for the outside coating, $18.00 per 1000 feet.
For shingles $2 per 1000, Cedar No. 1.
In the Coast regions many small local mills are dotted about on the rivers and estuaries. The prices there are somewhat less than at the larger mills.
The mildness of the climate enables much cheaper and slighter construction of farm buildings than in the States East of us.
Barns are very often framed from the hewn timber of the fir trees on the fax'ms, rafters of the slender young fir poles, shingled from home split cedar or fir logs. Even the sides are of split planks or shakes, though it is better economy to use the rough saw lumber from the nearest mill. The wild cherry or fir poles provide material for floors, stalls, and stanchions. With the help of a neighboring rough car- penter from a farm nearby, and of two of my boys, we put up a very substantial barn on my own ranch in this fashion
70 SETTLEirS HANDBOOK TO OREGOX
three or four years ago, 46 feet lony: by 40 feet wide, with flooring of split cedar puncheons, or slabs hewn level, and cherry pole stalls. The cost of materials and labor was $117, including carpenters' wages and rough lumber siding from the mill. The barn holds stalls for 22 cows and over 50 tons of ha}-.
Nearly every ranch in Western Oregon provides in abund- ance the materials in the rough for sheds and shelters for stock of all kinds.
Details about the silo, its construction and use will be found in the chapter on dairying.
Waricrit^t ^rop^
CHAPTER IV VARIOUS CROPS
The foregoing chapters will, it is hoped, have thrown light on the questions, what kind of farm or ranch home can be had in the several districts of Oregon, on the value of such homes at the time of writing, and on the various points on which the differences in value and prices ought to de- pend.
At the risk of repetition I desire to say once more that while the differences are in most cases real and logically founded, and therefore purchasers must not expect to get a five thousand dollar farm for three thousand, (although most of the new comers do), yet the buyer must guard himself from believing that because a high price is asked the farm is therefore worth it.
The following ease is not an unusual one. A few months ago a 160 acre farm in the Willamette Valley was sold for $40 an acre. It was Avell worth it. Nearly all in cultivation, showing good soil, excellent buildings and modern improve- ments. The farm had been up to the time of the sale the seat of an important and lucrative dairying industry. The herd of excellent dairy cows and all the dairy and farm implements were also sold to the purchaser, who entered straight into possession of a good home, a well established and paying business, and a farm certain to increase in value as time passes and prices legitimately rise. So far so good. Shortly afterwards the agents concerned in the transfer re- ceived a request from a neighboring land owner proposing to them to find buyers for his farm at nearly sixty dollars per acre. But this second farm, though of the same size, Avas obviously not possessed of nearly the attractiveness of the former. Not as much land in cultivation, improvememts, and buildings not as costly or modern. Farm outfit in stock
74 SKTTr>ER*S IIAXDHOOK TO OREGON
and implements available for the purchaser's acquisition, nothing like as valuable. Yet the owner honestly, I have no doubt, believed that the sale of the other fann at forty dollars proved that his own was worth a third more.
Bearinj^ the above cautions in mind Ave will take it that a new comer has boujrht his faim, paid for it, and desires to go to work at once on it to the best advantage. What will he, what can he do with it?
In our first district, that of North Eastern and Northern Oregon, not much option is open to the buyer. If it is a wheat farm of from 160 to 320 acres the new comer should find a comfortable house, horse barn, piggeiy, accommodation for three or four cows, a young orchard, a home garden. His land will be fenced round, and should be cross fenced also.
The average productiveness of the plowed land will have been measured bv the price paid. His expectation of wheat return will vary, as before mentioned, from 25 bushels per acre from $15 land to 45 bushels per acre from $50 land. The prices being governed also by nearness to town, railroad, and school.
But only one half of this wheat land will be in crop in any one year. The other half is Summer fallowed. The 160 acre farmer will therefore have the crop from 80 acres of wheat as his almost sole source of money income, or, in other words, from 25 bushel land he will have 2000 bushels to market. If he receives 63 cents a bushel and if the cost of raising the crop, for seed, horse feed, plowing, harrowing, seeding, harvesting, and taking to the railroad depot or the warehouse, Avith taxes, and an alloAvance of six per cent intcrst on his purchase price of $2400 for the land, be taken as amounting to 35 cents a bushel, he has a margin of 28 cents a bushel or $560. Besides the $2400 for his 160 acres the farmer must have invested in his one heavy and one light team, in plows, harrows, binder, drill, Avagons, harness, etc.^ not less than $750. So that his investment for Avheat farming only Avill reach about $3100 as a minimum tigure. The return
VARIOUS CROPS 75
therefore in a normal year, with no untoward accident or losses, shows well. There is a good per cent on the actual capital invested, and during a good many months out of twelve the wheat farmer has a very easy time. But the farmer must also see the other side of the picture — namely that the profit of $7 per acre applies only to the one half of the land which is in wheat in any one year. Therefore the inference seems plain that the full success of the owner of 160 acres of wheat land, and no more, depends on his bringing the idle half of his land into producing. Also, no one of the smaller sources of income must be neglected. The poultry yai'd may be as profitable in Eastern Oregon as in Western. Hogs must most surely be grown and fattened. The spilled grain after the wheat harvest is to this a most important means.
But the main point seems to be in the successful growing of field peas, and other leg-uminous plants. Much of the land in this region Avill also yield corn and good corn, too. Many excellent samples were shown of the crop of 1903, well filled and well ripened. 30,000 bushels from 1000 acres was report- ed from Athena in this region.
"&'
These ojDen rolling hills and undulating Valleys — where neither mountains, high hills, forests, nor wood land obstruct the eye's free range fiom earth to heaven, and from the ground one treads on to the clear horizon, where the air is bright, the sun undimmed by cloud — appeal to the visitor from the wide prairies of the Middle States. And such an one need fear neither cyclone, tornado, nor blizzard. Varia- tions that in Oregon we call extreme would be known as gentle vicissitudes in the less favored States nearer the cen- ter of the continent.
Naturally when we are dealing with larger areas and highe** priced lands, constituting more costly investments, out of reach of the new comer possessing five thousand dollars or less as his fortune, the profits rise. But the same axioms re- tain their force. Get nil out of the land you can without
76 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
misusing and robbing it of its fertility. Diversify the pro- ducts.
No land owner in North Eastern Oregon, or the basin of the Columbia can afford not to be interested in an enterprise maintained as it is for his special benefit without fee or re- ward.
The Experimental Farm and Station at Union in Eastern Oregon of the State Agricultural College demands a visit from the new comer to this district if possible, before set- tling down to work his land. His time, trouble, and expense, will give him a manifold return.
Twenty-five years ago pessimism pervaded all farming operations. "Clover Avon 't grow." "Vetches won't grow." "Alfalfa won't grow." Even "barley won't grow," were the dejected assurances. The spii'it of the men at the head of these Experiment Stations gives nearly the same words, but differently arranged and with an opposite accent. "Won't clover grow?" "Won't vetches grow?" "Won't alfalfa grow?" "Won't barley grow?" Of course they will, and do wherever in Oregon the means are fitted to the end.
Inasmuch as the great fruit growing industry, of the Columbia basin, includingc Hood River and the Grand Ronde falls naturally to be dealt with later on in the chapter headed "The Orchard," it is passed by now.
We now take up the eight Counties of the Willamette Valley and the farm industries already followed and desirable to be introduced or extended on this fertile and desirable tract.
Here, if anywhere, is the home of mixed or general fann- ing.
Many small tracts are, it is true, devoted to the orchard or the hop yard, but the larger area by far is held even now in farms of sizes ranging from 80 acres to G40 where general farming is the object. In the present condition of things-
VARIOUS CROPS 77
a great change, or process of evolution, is going on in both aims and methods.
When we arrived in Western Oregon twenty-five years ago farming appeai'ed to be in its infanc.y. An owner of one of the old Donation Land Claims, taken up in equal parts by himself and his wife, to the total of 640 acres, was gen- erally comfortably housed. Near the house was a big barn, often log built, with piles of old manure accumulated along both sides, the cattle having been fed there during the pre- ceding winter. A chicken house, and a hog pen eomiDleted the buildings, sometimes a granary, and very seldom a root and potato house were seen. Nearby was an orchard of big untrimmed apple and pear trees, with an occasional cherry and plum. Moss hung from the branches in long festoons. Fenced with a picket fence close to the house was the kitchen garden with plenty of berries and vegetables in due season.
The wheat field, perhaps a hundred acres, or a hundred and fift}^, was fenced off by a snake fence from the rest of the mile square that made up the farm.
The residue was ''pasture." Untouched by man, in- nocent of clovers or tame grasses, undrained, here a clump of wild roses, there by the creek a row of slender willows, covered in Summer with the yellow blooms of the wild sun- flower, in Winter the water standing in broad shallow pools over the wide surface, the resting place of abundant wild ducks.
The wheat field yielded its crop eveiy year. Only the ad- vanced farmer in those days had got far enoiagh to summer fallow half his field. Over tliat summer fallow straggled twenty or thirty sheep. On the pasture the few cows kept themselves. But there were always a few acres, more or less, fenced off where the winter's supply of hay was raised.
The house was marked by a rough but very kindly hospi- tality. The door was open to the stranger, who was welcome to the best there Avas,
78 SETTI.Kirs 1 IAN DUOOK TO ORF/JON
The wheat 3'ielded all the way Irum twenty to forty bushels lo the acre, and the day seemed very far off when the fields' fertility needed either sparing or refreshinjr..
Tlio better fanners, who kept more stock, whose wives sold or traded butter at the stores, who had hogs to sell in winter and a steer or two in summer, thej' kept out of debt and even prospered. But their desire and habit was to add field to field, one half tilled farm to another.
Time passed. Tlic constaiit checks on the bank of Mother Earth, draining an account never filled to meet them, were gradually brought if not to total dishonor yet to more and more partial payment.
The forty bushels an acre fell to thirty and then to twenty-five. Then came the bad times of the early 90 's, which have proved to Western Oregon blessings in disguise. Debts were called in, mortgages foreclosed. Overgrown holdings broken apart, and the 640 acres chopped in four. Better still, intelligence Avas set at work. The variety as Avell as the quantity of crops came to ])e considered. To maintain and even restore the fertility of the soil was rec- ognized as a duty possible of performance. The classes of the State Agricultural College began to fill up Avith both boj's and girls. Farmers' Institutes were welcomed here, there and everywhere. The impulse given by tlie far seeing man fortunately then set in the place of authority in the gieat lailroad which reached and connected every County in Westei'n Oregon towards the dairy industrj', till then a stranger in the land, was felt, appreciated, and passed on from one community to another. So a change was Avrought. Not entirely and everywhere has the invitation and stimulus been accepted. But the facts are here to show- that for general farming on the Pacific Slope the Willamette Valley of all places calls most loudly l)otli to the younger generation rising or risen from her original inhabitants and to the stranger fiom far distant States. The methods, cost of development and advantages set forth in the following pages
VARIOUS CROPS 79
are described by those actually doing' the work, and who have most kindlj' and with much thought and care responded to the request for accounts of their actual experiences and for advice founded thereon.
From a careful study of all their papers certain deduc- tions ai'e common to all and may be taken to present, first, recitals of actual experience, and second, a consent of opinion as to the best methods for others to adopt.
All these authorities agree that the most successful man is not he who has most land, but he who so balances his possessions in land with his working capital as to make the fullest and most constant use of the land which is his fixed capital. Another method of stating an old axiom "Own no more land than you can fully utilize."
A second point of agreement is to try to use up on the land itself as much as possible of the raw material of its products. To send off it, that is, the finished material.
A third point of agi'eement is in recommending the use of improvements even if costly to obtain, and this whether in new crops, better appliances, better buildings, but chiefly in the use of well bred, even thorough bred stock.
Having in mind, then, the new comer who has, it is to be hoped, become the owner of a 160 acre farm in one or other of these eight Counties at a reasonable price and having reserved funds enough to equip his farm properly and fully, the question was put to these several authorities:
1. — To Avhat uses should the land be put to get the best returns, with, say, one hundred acres in cultivation, and 60 acres in timber, brush, and rough pasture?
The fullest reply is as follows:
''To secure the best returns, with a view to maintaining the productive capacity of the farm at the same time, I would plan to keep all the live stock the fami would carry, and make live stock and their products, as quickly as pos- sible, the only class of products sold fi-om the farm."
80 SETTLKirS HANDBOOK Tr> OHFXJOX
Another ri'ply is to this effect, "On the brush hind I would put j;f)ats, or sheep and ^oats, and, if the intention is to improve the land later I would slash the brush down and burn it later.
The next question was:
'2. — Wiiat kinds of live stock, and what proportions of each should a new comer ol)tain to put such a IGO farm into most productiveness at the earliest date?
The answers vary sliiihtly. They agree in advising froTu S to 20 milk coavs, from 1.") to 25 sheep and a similar number of goats for the brush land and wild pasture. All agi-ee on 3 brood sows, and not less than 3 dozen chickens. One adds "three good horses." This I feel sure is the smallest number our farmer should obtain.
This amount of stock, be it remembered, is to start with.
One answer says. "If the owner desires to intensify his farming and does not fear the hiring of necessary labor his farm will easily carry 50 cows."
The third question was:
3. — Wjiat has been your exi)erience in the use of forage crops during tiie last five years? Which succeed best and j'ield the best returns? Have you tried alfalfa on un-irrigated land, and with what result?
The replies come to this. Forage crops must be relied on for successful live stock liusbaiulry. All agree to rec(>ni- mend vetches, red clover, and corn for ensilage and for "Winter feeding. Most say that rape yields a wonderful amo)int of nutritious food, good for hogs, sheep, young stock of all kinds, and, if fed cautiously, for milk cows also. Field peas are also strongly recommended.
A note may be inserted here that this vetch seed is sown broad cast, one bushel to the acre between j\ray ]st and Juh' 1st. One correspondent states that he has sown 78 pounds of field jx-as and 0(5 pounds white oats \t> the aci-c with sue-
VARIOUS CROPS .81
cess, but adds the caution to drill in the peas, to save the seed
from the birds.
Red clover takes from 8 to 10 pounds to the acre and is
best sown in this district between the 1st and the 10th of
March. As to using the rape the advice is to pasture off
reasonably close when it has made its first growth. Then turn
off the stock and let it grow up again, and, if the ground is
not too wet, repeat this until the following Spring, when the
plant is either plowed up or let run to seed.
Corn is recommended by each and all for ensilage. One correspondent says that he raises it every year for fall feeding also.
A qiTCstion as to the advisability of a silo brings out a consent of opinion in its favor. As to size one recommends a silo 16 feet in diameter, 30 feet high. Another two round stave silos 10 feet in diameter by 20 to 24 feet high. A third 10 or 12 feet diameter, and from 24 to 36 feet high.
The farm we have in mind is supposed to have 100 acres in cultivation. To what crops and in what proportions this should be apportioned is a matter which has brought vai'ious replies, but all based on the principles before stated, and all tending to provide for the largest return from live stock on the farm.
A well recommended division follows :
5 acres for buildings, yards, family garden and orchard. This includes some small fruits and vegetables in excess of family needs. A ready market is found for the surplus in every neighboring town.
5 acx-es near the house to be sown down in tame grasses for a pasture lot.
5 acres in field peas for hogs.
5 acres in rape.
3 acres vetches for early forage
15 acres field peas and oats, part for mid-Summer forage, the rest to be harvested Avhen ripe, grain lo be chopped for
82 SETTLKK'S HANDBOOK TO ()KE(iON
cow feed, the straw to he used for cows, horses, and sheep during winter.
7 acres corn for ensilap:e and for late forage.
10 acres in wlieat, for bread, chicken feed, hog feed and for seed.
10 acres oats for horse and cow feed, and seed.
15 acres barley for fattening hogs.
20 acres in clover. The clover will average about 3y2 tons hay to the acre. On wet land alsike clover is found to be superior to red clover. A second crop can usually be relied on, which is either left and used for pasture, or kept for seed.
One of the questions was as to the amount of hired labor the fanner should provide in addition to his own. The replies agree on one hired man at from $25 to $27 per month and board, if cows less than 20 in number are kept, and two if 30 cows are to be cared for. But in addition one extra man at $1.50 per day Avill be needed at harvest time.
The question as to the nature, quality, and pay asked for suitable labor for fann work is variously answered. One says it is not easy to get for the past two years, another that good labor is scai'ce, a third that he has not had difficulty in getting good American labor for $25 a month in the Winter months and $30 through the Summer months. All agi'ee on the scale of prices.
Now comes the critical question. On the answer depends whether the new methods demonstrate their superiority in the vital point of money in the pocket.
The unifonn question was "What monthly retuiii j)er cow can be depended on through an average year in case of milk separated on the fann and cream shipped to the cream- ery or milk sold to the condensed milk factory.
The answers show a satisfactory agreement. They are that the sum received from the creamery averages from $0 to $S per month for each cow for the year round. The answer goes on to say that the skim milk, separated un the
VARIOUS CROPS S3
farm by tlie hand separator is worth $7.50 to $8 for calf and hog and chicken feed. One farmer is careful to add that these figures, based on the returns from an average but not an Al herd, sliow $8 per cow for ten months in the year.
On twenty cows the monthly checks from tlie creamery Avill total to $1440 on the lower figures. The heifer calves will have been raised, and in a year will be worth $14 each or for ten of them $140. The steer calves will have been sent to the butcher, and at from (j to 8 weeks old will have re- turned $8 each or $80 for the ten. The hogs will show a return of not less than $10 a head if kept to 12 months old and then sold to the butcher. And there should not be less than 20 to be so sold, or $200. But farm raised a)id cured breakfast bacon has been worth to the farmer both in the big city and in the stores of the country town not less than 15 cents a pound for several years past, and the hams 17 cents. In Portland we are now paying for such breakfast bacon 20 cents a pound and this has for a long while been the standing price and shows no sign of decrease.
The above items of annual return from the Willamette Valley farm of 160 acres added together show $1860.
There are the sheep, goats and chickens still to be taken into the account.
Turning to the chapter on the sheep and goat industry it will be found that the returns from wool of 25 sheep will be $25 and from the mohair of 25 goats $37, together $62 more.
The fanner's wife should bring in $100 from the chicken industry with very little labor and trifling expense. Fruit and vegetables sold will give some pocket money unless a special feature is made of the orchard. For information on this head the reader is referred to the chapter on "The Orchard."
In the farm balance sheet the farmer can also credit him- seelf with the increase of live stock. This should be ten heifers, 20 lambs and 17 kids^to give conservative figui'cs.
S4 SETTLKirs HANDBOOK TO OREGON
And one colt at least should be found in the pasture to add to the total. Labor and taxes will i-epi'esent the principal deductions to be made.
Always be it remembered that under such system and management the farm will be on the up grade of fertility and its value will be a rising quantity year by year.
If any part of the farm is suitable for either valley or upland hops advantage should surely be taken of this. A chapter on the hop industry' will be found later in the book.
Many farmers no doubt will be found who are not anxious for the constant care, labor, and personal attention necessary for success in the lines above described. If they desire to make either cattle, sheep or goats the main features of their fanning thej* will find a chapter devoted to these most in- teresting and paying industries.
The Experiment Station at Corvallis, cut 17 tons an acre last year of green alfalfa off a field in its second j'ear, and all looks well this yeai-. I have heard of other progressive farmers who have fields which look well, now in the second year.
From knowledge of the successful growing of this plant both in France and England on land far poorer than ours I am convinced that Dr. Withycombe is right in saying that alfalfa can be grown on any avei'age un-irrigated faim in Ore- gon, but provided always that the land is either naturally or artificially subdrained. When alfalfa roots strike down into a soddened, water saturated subsoil, at any distance from one to two and a half feet below the surface the plant will dwindle, languish, and probably die. Of course the sur- face soil must be thoroughly clean and pulverized, well culti- vated, and the seed brushed in thoroughly in early Spring when the ground is in a proper receptive condition. The worth of this forage plant, which does not need renewing every second or indeed every tenth year, is so great that repeated efforts should be made, even in the face of the first failure, to ensure success.
VARIOUS CROPS 85
It is not to be understood that the foregoing suggestions apply only to the Willamette Valley. Very far otherwise.
There is hardly a district in all Oregon in which a man of common sense has bought a farm of 320 acres or less, where diversity of crops, leading straight to diversity of products for sale cannot and should not be applied.
In the Coast region, the next of our five coming in for special notice, nature has done even more for the settler than elseAvhere. But so far art has hardly done her part.
Conditions of soil and nature of ground differ so widely from both the open hill sides, clear valleys, and rolling prairie lands of North Eastern Oregon, and no less from the gently rolling surface of the Willamette Valley, that no parallel of values or productiveness can be drawn.
The size of the little Valleys interspersed everywhere between the fern, brush, or fir timber covered hills, differs, but whether the Valley be of fifty, of five hundred or a thousand acres, the kindly alluvial soil is borne witness to by the luxuriance of the natural vegetation, and not less by the size and beauty of the cultivated plants. The clovers adapt themselves so quickly to this soil that the tame kinds grow as freely as the small wild varieties that are there found.
Through a red clover field ready for cutting it is hard for men or horses to force their way. The plants grow from three to four feet long, succulent and tender through the full length. All the tame gi-asses grow correspondingly well but have to fight for their lives with both the wild or half wild grasses with which all the Valleys abound.
The character and intrinsic value of each of the smaller districts which together constitute the Coast region depend on the accessibility to and the influence of the bay, estuary, river, and Avater course, to which they are tributary. But the selling price of the land is chiefly governed by the near- ness to and the nature and cost of the transportation ad- vantages.
SG SKTTLEK'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
It is needk'ss to jifo into detail resiardiiif!; the South West- ern Orcsiun Counties. So far as fruit lands uo tlie reader will find information in the chapter on the orchard. Dairy- ing is a very imixtrtant interest, dealt with in a separate chapter. The stock man will find separate reference to cattle, sheep and goats.
The stock ranches in these Counties vary from 640 to 5000 acres in extent. In each case an average of from 200 to 500 acres of level bottom lands lends itself to all the industries of the general farmer above described. The balance, consisting of rolling and hilly grass pasture Avith scattering oak and lir trees in this disti'ict, dries up occasion- ally in the Summer months. Consequently a new comer must see to it that in his purchase he gets a reasonable acreage of the Valley land to which the drying up does not apply.
5ff
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CHAPTER V
THE STOCK INDUSTRY
This chapter is devoted to some account of the stock in- dustry. The information here condensed and abstracted has been contributed by experienced and successful stock men in the several industries in response to practical questions addressed to them.
Taking- then cattle tirst — the breeds for dairy purposes being excepted. Obviously there are two main divisions. The first, the great cattle and sheep ranches of Eastern Oregon.
Here the conditions resemble similar enterprises in Mon- tana, Idaho, Wyoming, based on the ranging of stock over immense tracts of open government land surrounding or ac- cessible from the central ranch, Avith its buildings, hay and alfalfa fields, and fenced pastures.
For the stock ranches of Western Oregon either Short- horn or Hereford cattle are used, the Shorthorn for general purposes and early maturing, the Hereford for heavy beef cattle being generally chosen. Very many farmers owning from 320 acres up carry from 25 to 50 cattle as one of sev- eral industries of the farm, the larger the number as out range on the foot hills, or lightly wooded lands not yet taken into individual ownership, may be accessible.
From such ranches the local buyers for the Portland and Puget Sound markets obtain their supplies, grass fed steers from July to December, and stall fed in the late Winter and Spring. These dealers make the round of the ranches, taking a few here and there delivered either on the ranches or driven to the nearest railroad station and held there until there are gathered the 22 to 24 to make the carload.
The prices for 3 year old steers have for the last few years ranged from 3^4 to 4^4 cents per pound on foot, the
90 SETTLER'S HANDHoOK TO OREGON
weights being from 1100 to 1300 pounds gross. For cows and heifers about % of a cent to l^i cents less per pound are given.
During this year 1904 the prices of both cattle and sheep for the butcher have been seriously, and unreasonably de- pressed. Meat in the cities has maintained its full price. The stock raiser has been and is the sufferer. An unusually dry Summer and a short hay crop in Western Oregon gen- erally, has scared many into offering, and indeed pressini: their stock for sale. Not only these weak settlers but their better provided and long sighted neighbors, are suffering by the consequent fall in prices. Every authority concurs in the belief that a corresponding rise will soon be felt. It is the time to buy, not to sell, young stock. It is a very safe prophecy that the Avisdom of those wlio lioldly follow this course will soon be acknowledged.
The cattle in the Coast Counties are often kept until late in December, when they have had the benefit of the growth of the grass and clover which starts vigorously with the first fall rains.
The methods now followed by the more provident and foresight ed of the farmers on all these ranches in Western Oregon are to secure silage, roots, clover hay, and choiijiod grain on which to winter the cattle, and sell them at top prices between February and the end of April in the suc- ceeding year.
For young thorough breds (registered) the following prices may be stated:— for males $50 to $150; for females $40 to $110.
It surely pays the average farmer to raise well bred, not necessarily registered stock. The latter is a sep- arate business requiring more capital, a special and generally accessible location, and a recognized name and reputation.
The now comer can safely pay for males $50 to $75; for females $30 to $40 to start his herd.
THE STOCK INDUSTRY 91
This j-ear, calves of fair grade can be had for about $10. Yearlings about $14 or $15 ; two year olds from $17 to $23.
To the question ''does it pay the 160 acre fai'mer to de- vote himself to cattle raising as a separate question from dairying on a Western Oregon Valley or foot hills farm?" Answei's Avere returned of which the following agrees with the experience and observation of the writer, "Yes, with out range for summer, and straw and hay to help out the winter feed, but the acreage suggested is rather too small."
Turning then to sheep.
The industries in Eastern Oregon and in Western Oregon are no less widely apart in locatien than they are in breeds kept, in methods and management. It is generally known that the Merino varieties -thrive and are most pi'ofitable under the conditions of food, range and management found in Eastern Oregon. Many fortunes have been and are being made. I have known several men who went to Eastern Oregon to "herd sheei^. " Starting as hands paid by the mouth, and found faithful, they have been trusted with bands of sheep on shares. So they have got together bands of their own, to be, in a few years numbered by the thousand. The risk they cannot escape is that of a severe winter and early blizzard which has come twice in my recollection to kill off their profits. Reserves of hay are nowadays put up by the provident sheep men to guard against this danger.
The sheep ranches are ever encroaching on the cattle ranges, pushing them further to the South and East.
In the Summer great bands are driven up to the Eastern slopes of the Cascade Mountains. There under the shadow of the sparse firs and pines the herder camps. The grass is rich and plentiful, no underbrush spoiling the free range. Before snow time comes the sheep are taken back to the neighborhood of the ranch, or else to the open lands which have been saved through the Summer months.
In Western Oregon there are few sheep ranches properly so called. Most of the sheep are kept in flocks of from 50
92 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO 0RP:G0X
to 300 head by men who recognize the value of this stock but are also engaged in other industries. To the question of the best breeds to be kept and why. various, and differing replies have been made. By common consent the Merinos are excluded, and the decision is to be made between the long wooled Cotswolds, Lincolns and Leicesters, and the close Avooled Shropshire and Oxford Downs.
One good authority who has run a flock of from one to two thousand sheep for a good many years, and has made a study of the different breeds, writes, "The best breeds are the Cotswold and any other of the long or medium wooled sheep because the heavy mutton and the early lambs are the most profitable points in the home demand. These larger breeds come to maturity earlier, and the grasses and the climatic conditions of our Valley and foot hill farms are the most favorable to them. ' '
But another experienced man writes in reply to the same question, "Cotswolds are best to keep in small bunches on rich land, but Shropshires are best for the foot hills, and are, I think, the most money making sheep for mixed farming."
And yet a third recommends either Cotswolds or Oxfords as hardy, and making good wool as well as mutton sheep.
My own experience for ten or twelve years on a hill and valley farm, Avhere open spaces of rich grass were inter- spersed with many patches of brush and briers, is this: We started in with 300 ewes of mixed breed, the sheep of the country, showing some ^Merino blood. Obtaining good Shrop- shire bucks, and changing them every year or so and cutting out the original stock from time to time, the flock gained Shropshire blood and appearance and in ten years' time would have been called by that name. But the general wool crop did not gain in average weight nearly as it should have done. For mutton purposes no fault could be found. I con- sulted Dr. Withycombe, at the Agricultural College, on wheth- er I should sell off the Shrojjshires and start afresh with Cotswolds. Before answering my question he took me to
THE STOCK INDUSTRY 93
the College model groups of both these breeds. It had beea raining heavily for many days. Grasping the fleece of a fine Cotswold the Doctor made me remark that off the long straight wool the rain had been shed and the fleece held but little water. Taking then the nearby Shropshire, a most beautiful sheep, the close curled fleece held I should think half a pail of water. Now, said he, your hilly climate is not any drier than ours, and your pasture and range I know are brushy. If I were you I would change the Shropshires for Cotswolds. And the advice was, I think, good.
The 160 acre farmer is recommended by all my corre- spondents to keep from 25 to 40 sheep, graduating his number in proportion to the area of brush land and rough pasture he has, and to the number of cattle he can run, and having always in mind the feed conditions at his disposal.
Shearers can always be had, who receive from 6 to 7 cents a head. Several shearing machines have been brought into Western Oregon, so that there is no probability of an increase of cost on this head.
Mutton sheep and lambs for the city markets are always in demand at good prices. Spring lambs have recently been sold at from five to ten cents per pound live weight.
Two ways of selling the wool are in common use, one to sell individually and locally, the other for a number to com- bine and pool their wool. In the latter case a slightly ad- vanced price is often obtained. One large sheep raiser writes, though, "I always sell my own wool, and generally direct to the manufacturer. Having for the past 20 years had my wool carefully packed the manufacturers who have bought it are ready to pay somewhat over the local market price."
My own experience confirms the general expression that you can depend on at least $1 per sheep for the wool on a series of years. But extra care and well bred stock will certainly raise this average.
One important function filled by sheep on a general pur-
1)4 SKTTLKirs 11 AXI )I'.()()K TO OHKOON
pose faim is that ilesciibcd as " weod oiadieators. " In this line they sliave honors wilh the lioats.
It is not necessary here to do more than refer to the i apid increase of the flock. In WCstciii ami Kasteni Ore,<>:on a cent per cent inci'ease from the Iambs is looked for. In some selected flocks in "Western Oreixon, especially in Shropshires, a return of from 110 to 120 lambs to the 100 ewes is not un- usual.
"While the prices of thorough bred slieeii have been grad- ually rising yet it is safe to say today that bucks of good quality can be had at from $10 to $25 per head, and ewes of this class at abou*; the same prices.
It paj's to keep the best since the cost of the thorouL;h l)red sire is very soon returned in the increased weight and earlier maturity of the progeny.
At the National Live Stock Association Convention recent- ly held in Portland many tributes were paid to Oregon by leading stockmen of the country on the high standard reached in the stock breeding business. The following quotation from what Mr. Bates of Ohio said is too apt in this place to omit.
This gentleman, an authority on both sheep and goats of National reputation is reported as follows: "^fy ol)si'rvations have convinced me that Oregon is the best place in the United States for breeding sheep and goats. With an al)undance of green feed and mild climad' and cxcry advantage for pro- duction of food stuffs to make prime mutton there is no other jdace to compai-e with it. Lanibini; is early and the lambs can have the best of range, stimulating growth and making it possible to grow the largest, soundest animals I have ever found ill any count ly. Oregon is rapidly becoming the breed- ing ground for the l)esl classes of sheep in tiie country. It is today the breeding ground foi- the supjjly deniaiuled in the Middle States' feeding lots. It may not be generally known here in Oregon but the Willamette "\'alley is the only place in America where long wooled sheep can be grown suc- cessfully. I have seen long wool varieties that could not be
THE STOCK INDUSTRY 95
excelled in England, and Great Britain has been given credit for the best in that line. The wool is of the best, fibre clean and long and animals attain greater weight than elsewhere. The sheep breeder's business is in its infancy here and the growers are just beginning to grasp the details that should be adopted and made most of for its future. ' '
I asked one well known small farm sheep breeder, who has gained more than one blue ribbon at the State Fair for his Shropshires, what his opinion was about the 160 farmer rais- ing sheep as a "side show" to his general farming. We have seen what the general farmers have to say about the dairy business as the mainstay of the farm, and most of them sug- gest a small number of sheep or goats.
This is what the successful sheep man says: ''Sheep should not be kept as a "side show" but one of the main things on the farm. They work better with grain growing and fruit raising than any other stock as they can be kept on and improve land that other stock would damage. An average foot hill farmer might have say 40 acres in grain, 10 in hay, 10 in orchard and garden, 50 in rough hill pasture and 50 in timber. From this he could sell, from 20 acres in wheat, 300 bushels and keep 100 bushels for flour, feed, and seed. From 20 acres in oats, 250 bushels to sell and 250 to feed. From 10 acres in hay 15 to 20 tons to feed.
40 head of ewes kept on j^astures and stubble, and on growing wheat at favorable times, would yield over $100 net profit in Avool and lambs. Three sows give 15 or 20 shoats to fatten each year. Three or four cows give milk and butter for the house and some extra to sell, and also' to sell increase as calves or yearlings. Two good heavy work mares give one or two good colts each year, and with one hack horse would work the farm.
The above stock and grain, wilh about six dozen hens or other poultry, on a fairly good 160 acre foot hill farm, would make a good living for an average farmer."
My friend stops here, he might have added that he has
9G SKT'l'LKirs ll()XJ)i;()()K TU ()KK(JON
himself 27 acres of fine apple orchard now 6 years old, and a row of bee hives from which he sells from $50 to $100 of honey every year. Also that his lambs sell for from $10 to $20 each.
ANGORA GOATS
The same Mr. Bates of Ohio, from whom I have quoted before, says of the Angora goats of Oregon. '*I have never seen better, and they were of greater weight and produce bet- ter mohair than those of any part of the U. S., the fibre being longer and of good quality. Having great luster it commands a higher price in the market than is paid for mo- hair in other sections. The growers of Angoras do not realize that their climatic and feed conditions are so favorable to Angoras, in fact the industry is in its infancy in the Wil- lamette Valley." So much for the best outside testimony as to the general results.
We will now go somewhat into detail. The following figures are reliable, as coming from one of the earliest, largest, and most successful of the breeders of Angoras for profit in Western Oregon.
Good average grade nannies can be bought at from $4 to $6 each. Bucks at from $15 to $100. The ''American Angora," published at Kansas City, and the "Pacific Home- stead," of Salem, Oregon, always have the advertisements of a number of breeders.
The owner of a 160 acre vallej' or foot hills farm, with GO acres of rough timber or brush land to be cleax-ed olt and got into use at the earliest moment, can safely and ad- vantageously use from 25 to 50 head of goats in this work.
The owner of 1200 acres, of which half is rough brush land, can properly jnit anj' mmiber up to 500 head on his GOO acres. Any perpendicular fence not less than 3^/2 feet high, (woven wire and picket, and wire fence preferred). The smaller the pastures the more goats can be kept on the place.
In answer to the question "How do goats prosper if put
THE STOCK INDUSTRY 97
on rough laud ini \vhic'li are cattle and sheep," the reply is most important, ''Goats feed on what is otherwise a total waste. Their principal diet is brush and weeds. They do not interfere in the least with cattle or sheep range, in fact the longer the goats are kept on a range the more grass it will produce."
A mixed band of goats will yield on an average 314 to 4 pounds of moliair each year. Prices have ranged from 30 to 40 cents per pound during the past four v^ears. Good mohair has not been sold for less than 25 cents per pound for the past 15 years.
The increase from goats, if well cared for, should be 100 per cent from all matured nannies. Kids at 6 months old are worth from $2.50 to $4 per head for mixed bunches, wethers and nannies.
A word of pi-actieal caution is in place here. Goats need special attention at kidding time. If allowed out in the gen- eral wild pasture the nannies will leave their kids ''planted" and go on seemingly in entire forgetfulness of them, and the kids will perish. Breeders usually have an enclosed field, open in character, for the nannies, with a goat shed at one side of it. In this space the kids are l)urn. One successful breeder I know Avell puts a barricade 18 inches high across the entrance to the goat shed, and carries the kids inside. By the time they are strong enough to jump the barrier after their mothers tliey can be trusted to folloAV them into the pasture, and will come home with them to sleep. Another way to the same end is to have an outwaid swinging g'ate opening from the home field, raised on a board platform about IS inches from the ground. When going out time foi' the nannies comes it is a comical sight to watch the mothers jump on the platform and so through the gates, while the little white kids crowd into the dark recess under the gate platform and are left behind by their mothers, loudly i^rotesting.
The kids gain strength and wh very quickly. From two to three weeks usuallv sees them advanced enouiih in life
OS SKTTI.Kirs IIAXDROOK TO ORF/iOX
to follow their mothers — from that time on no stock give the owner less trouble.
The nannies will fight for their young ones, and with their straijrht sharp horns are dangerous to a sheep dog. A valuable collie on our ranch was killed by one detennined thnist, as he followed the band too close to their heels.
It takes a band of goats about 3 years to kill out the brush on a slashed off piece, either of oak grubs, or of mixed hazel, cherry, vine-maple, etc. But much depends, of course, on the number of the band and on tlie time the slashing is done.
I put the question "Is it necessary to feed the goats in Winter or early Spring, and if so on what feed?"
The answer is, "All that I ever feed goats is to slash oak and hazel brush. But at times in Winter I feed to my poor- est animals grain or vetch hay. If the owner of goats takes reasonable care of them during the Summer they will need very little feeding in Winter."
As the wether goats are in good demand for brush killers and as the income from their mohair is from $1.50 to $2 per head, and as they are useful till 12 or 14 years old it has never yet been found profitable in Oregon to kill them for mutton. But the mutton is of good quality. Many are sold for eating in Kansas City everj- j-ear at about the same prices as sheep.
HOGS IN OREGON
''Always money in hogs," was the terse answer I got to a question as to this industry' here. And I believe it, from observation, reading and experience. Whether on the great wheat ranches of Eastern Oregon, or on the smaller wheat farms of the Columbia basin, it has been found that on the wheat stubbles with the shed grain and round the homestead with its alfalfa hay in the Winter time the cost of raisins: the hog is scarcely felt. Immense droves are now shipped from those counties every year. I am not certain if the ex- perience an<l practice <>t one wheat farmer on a large scale
THE STUCK iXDLSTKY 99
in that region is a customary one. This gentleman has about 2400 acres of wheat, grown on the rolling hills, with draws or gullies between Avhere moister soil is found. He tells me that a drove of 100 hogs may be kept in the growing wheat — that they confine themselves to the narrow strips in the gulches and close by — that they damage the crop so little that the spoil bears small comparison to the increased worth of the hogs.
In all the regions of Oregon Avith which I am acquainted the hog is everywhere. Not only a chief item of food, especially through the Winter months, but one of the steady sources of income on the farm. The gi'owth of clovers and other forage plants, and the wide and rapid spreading of the dairy industrj^, contribute to the value of the hog. Every plant, corn included, on which hogs grow and fatten is found. I speak in fear and trembling lest facts should in some isolated case be found to contradict me, but I believe that serious hog sickness is very rare, destructive epidemics en- tirely unknown.
It is a surprise to some of our Eastern visitors to hear of two hundred and forty pound hogs at fourteen months old, raised on the clover fields with but one feed of skim milk from the separator house daily, until six weeks before kil- ling time, and then shut up and finished off on mill feed and milk, varied with roots of different kinds. One of the finest droves of Berkshires I ever saw, 140 in number, on a Polk County farm, had been kept and fattened on 12 acres of ai'tichokes.
I gave just now the figures of a ver}- conservative friend as from 15 to 20 shoats from 3 sows, to be fattened each 3"ear. Considering the very rapid increase from 3 sows others might double these numbers and be within the tnith. One thing in favor of the hog is its steady market value. Buyers are plentiful everj^where.
Into the vexed question of favorite breeds I shall not enter. Berk.shires, Poland Chinas, Chester "NVliites, J. I. C. 's
308098
100 SETTLKirs HANDBOOK TO ORECJOX
and otlu'i's have cacli tlu-ir votaries. 1 have always raised tlic old i'ashioiied Berk.sliiie. with jjood success, and know of no superior. Certainly they are excellent rustlei-s for food in a wild pasture. On our fern clad hills in the Coast Coun- ties the hops Avill often select a sunny corner of heavy fern, and literally diir it out. buryinir themselves in the furrows they dip. I can hardly recommend them to take the place of the goats as land dearers. And, in our country, where the Berkshires run out between meals, it turns one's hair gray to keep the grain field fences "hog tight."'
Where the orchard is what is known as a "family" and not a "commercial" orchard the hogs are usually let iu when the apple ci'op is ripe, and fill a useful function in getting away with the "woimy" apples which fall, so pre- venting the codlin iiiolli from getting in any more of its deadly work.
HORSES
While there arc j'et a good many bands of range horses in Eastern Oregon the number has greatly diminished during the last few years. The jiecnliar type of Eastern Oregon horse, which used to be brought over every fall into the towns of Western Oregon and either auctioned off or sold otherwise at low prices is no longer common, lie was an upstanding 15.2 to IG hands horse, weighing al)ont 11 to I'JOO pounds, generally l)ay or brown, sometimes son-el, rarely gray, white or black. With fair action, good legs, clean and haid. fienerally a big brand mark on hip or shoulder dis- figured him sf»rely. As a ruli- unl)roken and four or live years old, Avith memories of a lice yonlh. these Imrses were trouble- some to break and apt to get into scrapes. Now and then one of such horses can be jiicked up; if they are sound and free from actual vice they are good (o buy and keep.
The heavy horses, Clydesdales, Shires, and I'erchenms aie Ix'ini: bred on .several farms as an important enteri>rise which ])ays well. I endorse strongly the advice on n inev- ious jtage, for the 100 acre farmer to buy a si>an of good
THE STOCK INDUSTRY 101
1250 or 1300 pound mares. He will have to pay from $250 to $350 for them. But they are good property to own. You may expect to sell a well grown three year old colt or filly for about $80 to $100. With them as with the cattle and sheep, the mild climate and the long" lasting green feed con- tribute to early and continuous growth, to good constitution and health, to full size and early maturity.
Tlie lighter hack horses are much cheapei*. You may pick one up in a country town at any time, paj'ing- from $40 to $75 for a 1000 pound horse.
©lie CDrchav^
CHAPTER VI
THE ORCHARD
Its price and retiu'iis in the two great fruit districts of Hood River and Southern Oregon^ and in the Willamette Yalley are ditficult subjects to treat.
It is hard to state any general rule when the results vary so widely in accordance with the varieties grown, with the treatment and tare each orchard may have received in pro- ducing the fruit, while high prices depend so greatly on the experience, outlay and trouble in packing and mai'keting.
I think perhaps the best way is to begin at the beginning and describe the cost of creating an orchard, then its culture during its infancy and period of development, the times and rates at which the returns in fruit come in. This informa- tion is intended, be it remembered always, for the inquirer as to the possibilities of fruit culture in Oregon, not for the
fruit expert hei'e.
Land in either of the above districts suitable for orchards has risen in selling value until from $50 to $125 an acre is asked in Hood River for land which may cost from $50 to $75 an acre more for clearing, ploAving, and putting into con- dition for tree planting. Not less per acre for such land is asked in the Grand Ronde Valley, and in many places along the fruit belt of the Columbia, but the last named lands will not need the same heavy outlay for clearing.
In the Rogue River Valley similar high prices are also asked for choice fruit land, the highest I have noticed being $200 per acre. These prices refer to lands of high quality in 5 and 10 acre tracts, and are payable by installments with 6 per cent interest.
The land being obtained the next question is with what trees to i^lant it. Some years ago prune orchards were set
106 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
out eveiywhere in Oregon, and todaj- an immense area in prunes is paying the owners well, for they are most productive in average years. But there is much harder competition in this business with the products of other states, and especially with California and Washington, claiming, as they do, at any rate equal excellence with the Oregon prune.
The Oregon Yellow Newtown Pippin and Spitzenberg apples reign supreme. Other varieties also grown in the fruit districts here claim and obtain the highest prices paid for those varieties anywhere. So far as experiment has gone very few districts in Oregon, certainly none of anything like corresponding size and advantages, have shoAvn ability to
produce apples of the above two vai'ieties to compete with those grown in Hood River and in the Rogue River Valley for size, flavor, perfume, keeping, and ability to stand trans- portation to long distances.
There is some ground therefore for the high prices of land in these localities.
Less trees to the acre are set out now than was the case a few years ago. Twelve years ago I planted ten acres with trees 20 feet apart, and now if I could bring myself to do it I ought to cut out every other tree. I believe an average dis- tance of 30 feet apart each way for apples, and 20 feet apart
for pears would be about right. This means 50 trees to the acres for apples, and 110 pears.
I have before me the price lists of reliable nurseries in Hood River, in the Willamette Valley and in the Rogue River Valley.
The prices range from $10 to $14 per 100 for 2 year old apple trees of the following varieties: Early Fall, Gravenstein. Everywhere.
Winter. Both for Hood River and Rogue River, Southern Oregon.
Baldwin. Esopus Spitzenberg. Yellow Newtown Pippin. Or the following which do well everywhere, and are excellently
THE ORCHARD 107
adapted to the Willamette Valley and the Coast counties: King, Monmouth or Red Cheeked Pippin, Jonathan, Yellow Bellflower, and Grimes' Golden.
It is well in the Coast counties to plant a few trees of the Newtown Pippins. It may be found, as in the case of my own orchard in Lincoln County, that they prosper.
Various other kinds have been and are being tested and some are quite satisfactory. But the market is a safe guide, and those which I have named can be planted without hesita- tion.
Let me note here that in planting for market fruit a few good varieties of established market value will be more profitable than the same number of trees divided among a large list of varieties.
The orchardist 's aim must always be to have fruit to sell by the carload.
I have said little about other kinds of fruit. In pears, of Summer and Winter Bartlett, and of Winter Nelis and Eastern Beurre, it will always pay to have a fair number. In cherries, the Bing for black, the Royal Ann, or Napoleon Bigarreau are certainly splendid fruit, good bearers, free growers, and produce fruit always saleable and profitable. As much as 26,000 pounds has been gathered from a single acre in Hood River which netted ly^ cents per pound or $1950 from this one acre.
Experienced orchardists agree that in the fifth year after planting the apples begin to bear — that in the sixth year, under good conditions of location and growth about 1 box to a tree may be counted on, this yield rising to an average of three boxes to a tree in the eighth year. It will be re- membered that from 50 trees, .30 feet apart, to 70 trees 25 feet apart will be planted. Each acre of the smaller number of trees will produce less fruit to the acre up to the tenth year or thereabouts, but will rapidly make up and pass the average as the trees attain greater age. So that from six years old trees, about 70 boxes to the acre will be a good yield, to be
]0S SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
increased to 210 boxes to the acre in the eighth year. Many of the earlier planted orchards have for the last j-ear or two been yielding five, or even more, boxes to the tree.
About 400 boxes go to the carload.
From tlie more valuable orchards in the H<»od River and the Rogue River districts the net return to the urchardist has been somewhat over $2 a box. These figures speak for themselves, and verify the suggestion that it pays to produce the best even if it costs more to put the best into the market.
It follows that the new comer, setting out to buy a grown and developed orchard has sevei'al matters to consider.
I should set them in order somewhat as follows:
1st. The district proposed. Are there existing orchards surrounding the intended purchase which prove its ability to produce fruit excellent of its kind?
2nd. The location in the district of the tract. Are the soil and exposure right?
3rd. The varieties planted, their age, and if in bearing their present yield ?
4th. The condition of the trees, their evenness, their dis- tance apart from each other.
5th. The cost of irrigation if where irrigation is required, and the facilities for it.
Cth. The cost of and facilities for transportation to market. The cost of labor.
7th. The price.
If an orchard is priced at from $000 to $S00 an acre a stranger is disposed to open eyes widely. But if, as shown above, a return of nearly as much has come in during a single year surprise vanishes.
When the net return to the Hood River grower was given the winter before last as $2.10 per box on Yellow Newtown Pippins I was in Chicago and made several journeys down South Water Street to satisfy myself of the prices obtainable there. The price was repeatedly quoted by the dealers at
THE ORCHARD 109
from $3 to $3.75 per box. I have been reliably informed that
in New York and London similar apples were sold at over $4 a box.
But all the fi'uit regions in Oi'egon are not limited to Hood River and Southern Oregon. I believe it is a conservative estimate that tWe prices paid to growers in the Willamette Valley and in the Coast counties ranged from 50 cents to $1.50 per box, or somewhat more as the season advanced.
Picking the apj^les costs from 2 to 3 cents a box. Boxes cost just about 11 cents each. Packing and nailing about 10 cents.
There is room for great improvement in the returns throughout these other districts by carrying out there the .same lessons of clean culture, careful spraying, painstaking picking, and marketing, which prevail in these best known and selected districts.
Many foot hill farmers through the Willamette Valley counties are setting out a few acres of orchard every year. One of the successful ones says that he chose slightly rolling ground with a North Western exposiure, but that apples will do Avell in almost any well drained deep soil, but that low wet soil should be avoided. He adds that potatoes or corn in a small orchard, and oats for haj' in a larger orchard can be sown on a strip 12 to 18 feet wide between the trees, such strip to be gradually narrowed, and to stop altogether when the trees are six years old. But that clean cultivation must be kept up between the trees all the time. This point cannot be too strongly stated.
AVitli a few words on strawberries I will close this cliapter.
There are manv acres in strawberries in the neighbor- hood of Portland — a good many are groAvn near Salem, and ill fact near all the large towns, for the fruit groAvs excellently well almost all over Oregon, where either natural water, or conducted water can be given them at the growing season. But the typical Oregon strawberry is that grown and marketed from Hood River and called "The Clark Seedling.''
iiu .si:TTij;ii'-s iiA.\j)i;uuK to ukkoux
Tlie berries keep in bearing from five to seven consecutive years, and produce from 150 to 200 crates a year per acre. A conservative figure on the return gives $2 per crate, or $300 per acre. The prices paid in 1903 for picking was IV2 cent per box and V2 cent for packing, making 48 cents for picking and packing per crate of 24 boxes. Crates cost from 32 to 15 cents. Thus to many growers tlie return exceeded coii: siderably $200 per acre.
The actual cost of one large grower of the season of 1004 just over was that the strawberries cost him 70 cents per crate laid down in Ilood River to the refrigerator car.
®ite ^aixnr
CHAPTER VII
THE DAIRY
So much has gone before on the utility, indeed on the necessity of the dairy, as one of the principal aids to making' an Oregon faiTn, especially a Western Oregon farm, bring its best returns that a chapter must be devoted to that alone, with its attachments of the creamery, the cheese factory, and the condensed milk factory. This I see is be- ginning to be called the ''condensery. " I know no reason against adopting" this shorter name.
The dairy, as a specialty of the last few years in Oregon is, I think admittedly, the fruit of the knowledge of its ad- vantages and possibilities which Mr. Markham (until lately the General Manager of the Southern Pacific R. R. in San Francisco) when he was Freight and Passenger Agent of the Southern Pacific railroad in Oregon, used every effoi't to disseminate and enlarge.
The State Agricultural College before that time had adopted it as a special subject and had been provided with the necessaiy apparatus and implements to teach students. The Director of the Experiment Station, Dr. Jas. Withy- combe, and Mr. F. Kent, the Instructor in Dairying had done and were doing their work loyally and energetically.
But the meeting of the 135 prominent dairymen and farmers at the College on the invitation of the Southern Pacific Compan3% at which meeting Mr. Markham took an active part, convinced me that the movement was in practical hands and would surely spread.
So it has proved. The opinions and experiences yiven in this book speak for themselves. I trust that this hand book may serve in a humble degree to enlarge the good work.
I have seen prosperity, and the restoration of fertility,
114 SKTTI.Kirs llANDI'.ddK Tn < >lv' l-.i ;< )X
ami must gratifying increase of vahic t'ullDW r;lose on the adoption of the dairying industiy. Will the conditions of the business today justify its extension?
The first question in such cases always is, Are you working- with or against Nature in the effort? The second question, Are you handicapped in the race by superior ad- vantages, natural or acquired, ]H)ssessed by your competitor?
If the first question is answcicd by ''against nature," then follows the query, "Can ycm overcome Nature's ob- stacles and still be in the straiglit way of business success?"
If the second (|uestion is answered "Yes, we are so handi- oapi>ed," then ask again, can you overcome your lumdicai^ and then make a business or commercial success?
In Oregon, and especially in some of the valleys of Eastern
Oregon, and in nearly the whole of Western Oregon, is found
a typical dairy country. Climate, soil, natural vegetation,
abundance of Avater supply, point to what Nature has done
to suggest the industry.
The reasonable cost of transportatiim to market, and the
provision of the various means for working up the products
of the dairy as they are actually seen demonstrate that no
Oregon farmer can justly complain today that he has not a
fair show to get all tiie returns he can properly expect from
the money, thought, study, and industry he puts into the
enterprise.
Of all the districts of Oregon probably the Coast country
is the easiest in which to carry on dairying and with the
least money expenditure.
But in those cases it must be seen that the greater distance
and more costly transportation do not over balance these
advantages.
As to marketing the products there is in sight no danger at all of over production.
Nor so far is there any indication of trusts or other com- binations of capital tending to prevent or obstruct the o]>- eration of the natural effects of fliictuation in supply and demand.
THE DAIRY 115
On the contrary there is active competition today in the chief accessible markets to secure still larger supplies of the dairyman's product.
Another fact not to be forgotten is that the capital need- ed to establish and carry on a creamery is not beyond the power of the dairy farmers in any well settled district to contribute. Of this examples have not been wanting.
The recent establishment of the '^condenseries" at Hills- boro, and Forest Grove, both in Washington County, will call it is said for the use of nearly 12,000 cows to supply those tAvo undertakings.
Cheese has been imported into Oregon in large quantities up to a very recent date. Indeed today imported cheeses ike in demand and sold at many provision stores in the larger cities and towns.
Only a year or two ago California creamery butter was freely sold and in great demand in the Portland market- indeed some was on sale during the winter of 1903 while we were paying for the two pound roll of Oregon creamery butter 70 cents and for a short time 75 cents.
It will be remembered that in some of the opinions and experiences before given there was a consent that the dairy cow on the farm earned for her owner $0 to .$8 a month the year round.
How, then, should the new comer put liimself in line to obtain, develop and work his dairy and get similar results?
Books and treatises in plenty have been written on these topics. The agricultural papers are full of them.
I take two papers, The Homestead, of Salem, The Oregon Agriculturist, of Portland. We do not fear placing them alongside of similar papers in any state in the Union. The Homestead has made a specialty of farmers' essays or arti- cles. Week by week they appear, and, to me at least, are always both readable and interesting.
Here there is not space to do more than give some general advice, and point some warnings.
116 SETTLEirs HANDBOOK To OREGON
In Ijiiyinji the larm attention lias of course been paid to the daii'vintr facilities. This is assumed.
Plenty of clover, plenty of grass, plenty of water. These can be and ought to be provided everywhere. Without them dairying, to my mind, becomes forced and unnatural, al- though the special forage plants we have noticed, and silage and roots, take their places.
Given, then, the food the next (juestion is tlie cow. Based on my OAvn experience I would caution the new comer from attempting to make a good stock cow into a poor dairy cow. Go frankly in for the dairj' and put the stock possibi- ties out of sight. This, at any rate, Avould have l)een my unquestioned advice until about a month ago I found Prof. H. T. French, Director of the Idaho State Experiment Sta- tion, an enthusiastic advocate of the milking type of the Shorthorn cow. He surely has facts and figures to prove his words. He is carrying conviction into the minds of very many of the Idalio fanners, and I am sure there will be a large demand for cows of the breed and stj'le in question. Prof. French has at large expense secured excellent and beautiful examples for his Station.
So far, however, the cost of these animals is impossil)le to the average beginner in dairying in Oregon. Tiie grade Jersey is their standard at present, and is .seen in all its varieties in about all of the successful Oregon dairies of to- day.
Such cows, young, and either fresh or nearly so, can be bought at from $35 to .foO now.
Neither the Ayrshire, the Holstein, nor the Devon must be forgotten. Each breed has its friends, and excellent ex- amples of each can be found in Oregon by consulting the ad- vertisement columns of the agi'icultural papers I have men- tioned.
The food and the cow being provided the next is the man to work in the dairy. Remember the man you want is a specialist and an expert. You ought not to expect to secure
THE DAIRY 117
his services at the cost of ordinary farm labor. You will not get the man for less than $30 a month and his board. Of course with a few cows to start with the new comer and his family may expect to make a beginning. The results will soon show, I think, that better returns will more quickly come in if the farmer devotes himself to his farming, and a special man takes the dairy work and does little else.
My own experience confirms the opinion of others, that 15 cows are all that one man can take care of, milk and feed.
Many good kinds of separators can be had here and each has its advocates. I have owned and operated the Sharpies $125 machine, which never got out of order, did excellent work, and was quick and easy to clean.
Several of the Baby hand machines, using the milk of from 7 to 10 cows, and costing about $50 to $75 are very well spoken of.
Separating the milk on the fai-m, rather than taking the milk to the creamery to be separated has among other ad- vantages this great one that the calves get the separated milk direct from the separator, and at about the temperature which suits them.
If I were arranging the separating business once again, I would have one set of troughs directly from the separator house to the calf barn where the calves in their stanchions were waiting for the milk, and another set of troughs to run milk directly to the hog pens.
I have grave doubts myself if the extra price paid for the whole milk at the condenseries makes up for the loss of the separated milk on the fanii and its fertilising value.
But I see that it is suggested that the purchase of extra foods from the surplus price of the whole milk paid by the condensery evens matters up.
If proper appliances, such as a cool, screened spring house, are available in which to store the cream cans the creameries have no objection to getting the cream only twice a week. The railroads have made arrangements for collecting the
lis SKTTI.EK'S HANDBOOK TO ORITiOX
cream cans at their stations and returning' the empty cans, and their freight rates applying to all places within certain zones of production and delivery are very moderate. In our own case, where the railroad depot at which we delivered the cream was about 120 miles from Portland the creamery paid us per pound for the butter fat in our cream Portland prices for butter less 2i^ cents. Our receipts per pound ranged from 17 cents in summer up to 271/2 cents in the winter months. The creamery supplied the cans.
To the small farmer, milking five cows or less, and unable to provide a separator, home cheese making is a perfectly possible and a pi'ofitable pursuit. When we were in a con- dition to do this our first step was to write to the Agricul- tural Bureau at Washington, D. C, and ask for the farmers' bulletin on cheese making. We received it almost bj' return mail. A pamphlet of, I think, about 40 pages, it was so simple, direct, condensed, and free from technical terms that it was a pleasure to study it. With the exception of a couple of wash boilers obtained from the tin shop, one half an inch smaller in diameter than the other all the apparatus was made on the ranch. It consisted of a press made from the tin of a coal oil tin, with perforated sides, a ])lunger fitting the press cut from a young fir tree stem, and a lever about 5 feet long with a 7 pound weight to hang on the free end of it to suppl}' the pressure.
A dairy thermometer, costing 35 cents, (an absolute neces- sity), a bo.\ of rennet tablets, and a bottle of cheese coloring completed the investment.
We made about one 50 cent cheese a day. and leceived from 11 to 14 cents a pound for them.
The average farmer in Oregon, I think, fails to appreciate the ease witii which excellent cheese can be made on the farm, and its value both as a food, and as one of the many lanch and farm products which can be carried to the store whenever the wagon goes into town.
Portland is becoming an exporting center of importance
THE DAIRY
119
for dairy products. I heard of one butter shipment of 70 tons. Both the Oriental and Alaska markets are large consumers.
I consider that there is not the slightest chance of the supply over running the demand for many years to come.
As so much has been said about the silo and ensilage I ■will close this chapter with a condensed account of both.
While the special use of the silo is to pi'ovide most suc- culent food for dairy cows during the dry and the winter season ensilage is a valuable food for all classes of stock. The writers whose opinions have been previously quoted all use it in connection with the dairy.
The silo should be graduated in size by the following table which allows a daily consumption of 40 pounds per cow on a removal of two inches in thickness off the entire surface of the enclosed ensilage. By actual experiment at the Agri- cultural College it was determined that this quantity was about the best to use with the least loss and damage to the ensilage that was exposed.
Diameter of Silo. Feet.
7.- S..
9-
10..
11.,
12..
13"
|
Number |
|
|
of Cows. |
|
|
5 |
|
|
6 to |
7 |
|
8 to |
10 |
|
10 to |
12 |
|
13 to |
I.S |
|
15 to |
IS |
|
17 to |
22 |
|
21 to 26 |
Diameter of Silo. Feet.
14..
I5" 16., 17.. 18.. 19.. 20.,
|
Number |
|
|
of Cows. |
|
|
25 |
to 30 |
|
29 |
to 35 |
|
^i |
to 4a |
|
37 |
to 45 |
|
40 |
to 50 |
|
47 |
to 56 |
|
52 |
to 62 |
The deeper the silo the better, of course within reasonable limits. From 20 to 30 feet is found practical.
The wooden silo, with staves 4 inches wide for silos twelve feet in diameter or less, and staves 6 inches wide for a diameter exceeding 12 feet, and of 2 inches thick for the larger and 11/2 for the smaller, is recommended for Oregon where clear fir lumber of these sizes is almost every- where obtainable at moderate prices.
The shape should be circular, to more easily exclude the air from the contents.
The foundation of cement or well rammed stone or gravel
120 SKTTLEir.s I1ANJ)1UX)K TO UKKCiUX
not less than S inches tliick. The staves must Ix' held in position and tightly drawn together by bands either of I'ound or flat iron or of wire sufficiently strong to stand the strain. The doors, allowing of feeding from the upper surface, are cut out after the silo is built, at intervals all the way up, and, after their edges are covered with tarred paper, are replaced before the silo is filled. Cut with bevelled edges wider on the inside they ai-e held in place until the inside pressure is removed.
The silo is filled from a door at the top through which the spout from the silage cutter and elevator is introduced so as to deliver the ensilage at the center of the silo and allow its being easily and evenly spread.
The silo should be coated on the inside with coal tar before being used.
When built outside the barn a roof over the silo is needed.
The following estimate of cost is for Western Oregon and will vary somewhat with increased cost of lumber in some other parts of the state.
This estimate is for material only. The cost of labor will vaiy so much that no general figures would be of use.
Cost of Material for a Silo twelve feet in diameter. 24 feet deep. Capacity, 49 tons :
1 2-3 yards of rock or gravel t 1.00
4 barrels of sand 50
1 barrel of cement 4.75
2,260 ft. 2x4 tongued and grooved staves at $20 perM. . 45.20
72 ft. 3x6, 24 ft. door frames 1.44
358 ft. 5-S round iron for hoops and bolts; weight,
465 lbs., at $3.20 per cwt 14.88
9 lugs at 30 cents each 2.70
54 nuts at 814 cents per 11) 60
Presen'ative 1 .50
Total $72.5
THE DAIRY 121
It remains to notice the material with which to fill the silo and how and when to feed it out.
The Oregon red clover, alfalfa, corn, vetches and field peas are recommended as valuable in the order given. It is a matter for congratulation that the two best are those most easily, cheaply, and abundantly grown. It is desirable to get the material into the silo in its freshest and greenest condition. This mainly to conserve as much water as pos- sible—if the clover or other staff is at all wilted or dried, it will be necessary to pour in water to make up for the loss by drying. Therefore the first crop of clover or alfalfa is the best with which to fill the silo, leaving subsequent crops for hay or seed. It follows that the best way is to cut no more at a time than the wagons can haul to the feed cutter and that machine can cut and deliver into the silo daih'.
Clover is best cut when the first flowers are beginning to die, alfalfa when in full bloom, coi"n when the kernels are glazed, just after the roasting ear stage.
Note should be made that costly methods of covering the contents of the silo after filling have been abandoned. It is well to cover with about six inches of rough grass, weeds, etc.
Note also that while the ensilage is in process of fermen- tation carbon dioxide is produced. Therefore it is well before entering the silo to ascertain by lowering into it a lighted lantern that the contained air is suitable to breathe. Lost lives have been attributed to neglect of this precaution.
A cow fed 40 pounds of silage a day for ISO days will
consume 7200 pounds of silage or about 4 tons of the original fodder, about ten per cent loss being inevitable from the fermentation of the silage.
In calculating how long the silage will last on feeding out 2 inches deep per day an allowance of about one sixth from the total height of the silo must be made, to allow for settling after filling.
A good crop of corn, clover, or vetch will furnish about
122
SETTLER'S HANDBOOK To OKKCOX
ten tons of green foddei* to the acre — so that one acre should furnish 3 cows with their daily ration for about 150 days. In other words, to fill a silo holding 100 tons the crop of 11 acres of land will be required.
The above account has been condensed from the Bulletin on the Silo and Silage issued by the Oregon Agricultural College in June 1901, and written by Dr. Jas. Withycombe. Unfortunately this bulletin is out of print now, or a reference would have pievented the necessity of the foregoing pages.
$>v
te
CHAPTER VIII
HOPS
When the hop crop of a district amounts to about 85,000 bales, weighing- from 170 to 190 pounds each and sells this year 1904 for somewhere near $30 cents a pound it is plainly an interest well worth study.
A very conservative estimate gives the quantity per acre at 1000 pounds. My own correspondents say their returns vary from 1500 to 2000 pounds to the acre.
Some years ago it was thought necessary to select very rich level bottom land for hops, seeking the valleys of the Willamette river and side streams and feeders, or of the Umpqua river and its creeks.
But it has been found that the fertile uplands of the Willamette Valley pi'oduce excellent hops. Indeed today it is a matter in dispute which class of hop yards do the best. The upland hop man claims that his hops are the richer and more fully ripened in quality and produced at less ex- pense, because needing no spraying to defend the hops from mold and lice — the lowland hop man says that his hops are earlier by from one or two weeks, and so run less danger of rain.
The industry is therefore open to indefinite extension, and as the Oregon hops are inferior to none in the wide world, a free invitation can be given to extend the area in this val- uable crop.
There are huntli'eds of acres of the rich bottom lands suitable for hops not yet in that cultivation. The prices asked range from $40 to $70 an acre. These prices are for acreages of hop lands. Very many of the farms before re- ferred to as general ])urpose farms comprise from 10 to .50
126 SKTll.Kirs llANDnooK To oKKGON
acres of such laiul which are ineliKled in the averajje prices of from $17 to $30 an acre.
The u))lancls suitable lor hop culture are. generally speak- ing, those which yield wheat crops of thirty bushels or over — this figure suggests that the fertility of the land has not been unreasonably drawn on.
A new hop j^ard comes into bearing the next year after planting. As the plants are set out 8 feet apart the land can be used for potatoes, corn, etc., betw'een the rows.
It is stated that the first year or so of bearing the hops Avill not be of as good a color as afterwards. Xot much difference is really found as the fact is usually alleged by the buyer and disputed by the gi'ower.
The ground must be kept clear of weeds. It can be plowed early in the spring and kept worked until the burr is formed. Some growers han-ow their yards as late as the first Aveek in August.
Picking time in the vallej's comes generally about the end of August, on the uplands the middle of S('i)tember. On a hop yard of, say 10 acres, about 25 pickers will be needed if a dry house of the medium size is available, dimensions 24x24 feet, drying from 100 lo 110 boxes to one kiln filling. The picking of such a yard will last about 10 days, i)icking not less than 100 boxes a day. The price i>aid to the pickers on an average of the last few years is 40 cents per box.
The expenses of growing, cultivating, picking, drying, and baling the the hops agjjTegate from 7 to S cents per pound, this estimate being assented to by several successful growers whom I have consulted. When spraying the hops is followed, which has become a usual practice with the valley land hop growers, the cost of this must be added, but this will not make any considerable addition. So far the upland growers have not found spraying a necessity.
One of the most imjiortant and delicate pi'ocesses in i)re- paring the hops for market is the drying.
The following directions may be relied on coining from a successful and experienced mower.
HOPS 127
The hops in the drying room must be from 2 to 21/2 feet thick. They must be raked level or they will dry unevenly. The ventilator being opened the fire may be started and the heat kept at about 120 degrees for 4 or 5 hours. Sulphur will be kept burning in the furnace room which is under the hops.
After about 5 hours the heat may be raised to 130 degrees and by degrees to 140 degrees. The hops must be carefully watched and their condition must justify the raising of the temperature. When the heat breaks through the hops then the sulphur burning must be stopped. As soon as the hops are nearly dry close the ventilator so as to throw the heat down, to dry the hops on top. The drying process lasts from 16 to 24 hours.
Sometimes the hops are baled immediately after drying. But if sure of the mai'ket it pays to keep them open since they take up considerable moisture from the atmosphere and so gain weight. The bales weigh from 170 to 190 pounds each.
The varieties generally grown in Oregon are the "Kent- ish Cluster," and "Wells Kentish Cluster." As far as appearance goes the Oregon hops will compare favorably with the Kentish and they certainly are in general demand. The crop varies, as stated, between 1000 and 2000 pounds to the acre. The medium, 1500 pounds, is a fair all round crop.
The price for the past tAvo years has ranged about 25 cents a pound; this year reaching 30 cents. Evidently a most profitable crop while prices continue good.
The hop picking time is a favorite outing for both towns people and country people all over Western Oregon. The Indians on the reservations enjoy it heartily. There is a regular exodus from the Grand Ronde Reservation in Polk County and the Siletz in Lincoln Couiity. The road out from the latter passed through our ranch and the procession of Avagons, with their dusky occupants, men, women and chil- dren all bound for the hop yards, was a long one, every year.
Since I have known Oregon hop yards there have not been the fluctuations in the quantity and quality of the hop crop
r2S SETTLKK'S 1 lAXI )l'.()< )K To OHKCOX
wliifli imr Kentish experience iiiaiiy vi-ars a.iio had laught us to expect. But the price has varied greatly. It was a curious illustration of Oreiron pessimism not many years ago when quite a large proportion of the growers, being dissatisfied Avith the prices for a couple of years, set to and plowed up their hop yards and planted potatoes. The same year the price rose apain. and a .sore spot with these men was left for several years.
llo|) yni'ds liei-e continue to yield for ll2 or 14 years with- out replanting', if kept well cultivated. How in\ich longer I do not know.
Jt has not been dillicult this last year to rent hop yards to responsible parties. I have heard of two yards, of 22 acres each, in two separate AVillamelte Valley Counties, one of which was rented recently for $1000 for the season, and the other paid its owner $700 for one rhiid of the letnrn from the crop of last year.
^vvx^aiion
CHAPTER IX
IRRIGATION
This subject grows in importance every month. Well stated in an article in the ' ' Oi-egonian " of April 8th, 1904: ''Every addition to the irrigated area means the production of more crops, the raising and fattening of more live stock, the sale and shipment of more products and the purchase of more supplies. The Inland Empire Avill not know its full poAver so long as a cubic foot of water flows down through arid w^astes to join the Columbia in its ceaseless course."
Copying official U. S. figures for 1902 tlie number of irri- gatois in Oregon was 4636, area irrigated 388,310 acres. The value of the crops from irrigated land was $2,926,606. Hay and forage crops stood for $2,303,729, vegetables $280,337, cereals $438,812, and fruit $152,042.
Turning now to the relation of the inquiring and pros- pective settler to the matter of irrigation I will try to sug- gest to him points in which he, personally', is interested.
The production of such crops as above referred to from land already under irrigation has raised land values from nothing plus the cost of irrigation to the $50 to $100 an acre and more now asked for irrigated lands in the Yakima and Palouse districts in Washington and Idaho and in certain valleys in North Eastern Oregon. An enormous increase. What chances are there for the new comer of today to share in similar profits? Where are lands to be had, and under what conditions, which require and can secure irrigation? Remember, I do not desire to say to the new comer, invest so much, and in so many months or yeais you (judging from what has happened in other regions), can sell out for so much profit. The other side of the proposition is ''Take the necessary steps, pay the necessary monej', expend the
132 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OKEOOX
necessary time and labor, and then, from land now desert and practically worthless you can rely on such and so areat returns, and develop property on which you and your family can live in comfort and satisfaction, and which, as you live shall naturally multiply in capital value."
The irrigable as distinct from the already irrigated laud in Eastern Oregon is divided into three classes.
1st. Those tracts already taken up for irrigation under the Carey Act, and being irrigated by companies formed for that purpose and under contract with the State of Oregon to do the work.
Settlers on these tracts pay off the lien on the lands they select which has been secured by the Irrigation Company for bringiug the water on to the lands, the amount being settled and announced by the State, and in addition pay the company quit rent, (hitherto fixed by the State at $1 per acre), for maintaining the canals and seeing to the turuing on and off the Avater so that each settler gets his fair share. For the land they do not pay anything, e.xcept as above.
The taking of each man is limited to 160 acres. At this time of writing the Columbia Southern Irrigation Company has 27.000 acres covered by its contract witli the State of Oregon. On more than one half of this the water has been led. and the rest is expected to be irrigated before the end, of the season of 1904. I am told that something under 14,000 acres is yet to be taken up out of their 27.000. This company contracts with each purchaser to deliver the water on to the most available point on his purchase, thence he must con- struct his own lateral ditches. The quantity of water ap- portioned to each 360 acres is one cubic foot of continuous flow during the irrigation season of gi-owth. The actual quantity turned ou the land of each owner will be controlled by a superintendent for the company, so tlint llie land may not be ovei- soaked, wliilo each man has an al)undance. The Mater for this project is ])rovi(lcd from the Tumnielo Creek, an affluent of tiie Dcs Chutes River, supplied from one of the marvellous constant springs issuing from the flank of the
IRRIGATION 133
Cascade Mountains, unvarying in volume, clearness, and temperature through the year.
A larger enterprise is that of the "Des Chutes Irrigation and Power Company," which has absorbed other undertak- ings for similar pui-poses. Their head works are at Bend, a new town in Crook County, about 90 miles South of Shaniko, the present terminus of the Columbia Southern Railroad Com- pany. Their plans cover nearly 200,000 acres. About 20,000 acres of the irrigable portion of their lands will be reached by the water this year. Various selections have been made, and they are approximately ready for the tido of settlement to be turned on to their lands at this time. Their water supply is from the Des Chutes River itself, near Bend, a never varying source of magnificent force and volume. The conditions of the contract used by this company do not materially differ from that first mentioned, and I understand that the water is to be actually delivered to some point on each man's purchase. Both these companies have head- quarters in Portland and may be referred to there.
The important question not only for these two under- takings, but also for the thousands of acres of land open to settlement in Eastern Oregon is that of railroad transporta- tion.
The Columbia Southern Railroad is at present the only railroad connection this large area has with the outside Avorld. It will be found described in the chapter on railroads. It is sufficient here to notice that the right of way for the ex- tension to Bend has been all but entirely secured, and that early construction is possible. The surveyed and located East and West line of the Corvallis and Eastern Railroad fol- lows through the heart of the whole of this irrigable district.
This now arid land is rich in dormant elements of fertility. Volcanic elements abound which the touch of water combines into plant food. No heavy clearing is needed, sage brush being the chief obstruction to the plow. Once the water is on the land the first year's crop turns the desert into the plowed field.
134 SKTTLKirs llANDBCHJK in OKKUON
The law provides that what the settler has to pay for the irrigated land must be determined by the State. In the case of the above irrigation companies this has been done.
The value of each 40 acre plot has been ascertained as between the company and the settler by the State Engineer. The sum has been fixed at between $6 and $14.50 per acre, varying with the value of each 40 acre tract in location, and percentage of irrigable land of fine quality. On all land actually irrigated the water rent of $1 per acre attaches.
There is little doubt that the same methods and considera- tions will determine the value of the Des Chutes Irrigation Company's land.
The provisions for the acceptance by the State of Oregon of the Carey Act were set out in the act of February 28, 1901. The 2nd division of irrigable lands consists of such lands of this order as may be within the bounds of private owner- ship and to which water may possibly be led,
A carefully prepared act was passed by the legislature of Oregon at the session of 1891 for appropriating water for irrigating purposes. An amendment to Section 8 was passed in the session of 1901.
Under these powers thousands of acres have been hitherto irrigated, and many more can be so improved under its beneficent provisions.
Many groups of farmers and stock men have associated themselves together for these purposes. I mention this to draw attention to these powers, which can be availed of by the land owners interested at slight cost.
The third division of irrigable lands consists of areas to be taken up by the General Government for improvement by the engineers of the U. S. To provide capital for such works the National Irrigation law was passed, approved June 17, 1902, under which the money derived in Oregon from the sale of her public lands beginning with the fiscal year end- ing June 30th, 1902, shall be devoted to public irrigation works within the State. Such lands can be entered under
IRRIGATION 135
the Homestead law in tracts of not less than 40 nor more than 160 acres by an actual settler, who must reclaim at least one half of his land for agriculture, and repay to the U. S. the estimated and pro rata amount of the Government outlay. Such sums are repayable in annual installments in not over ten years. The sums so repaid are returned into the reclamation fund.
The U. S. Engineers have already examined large acreages of irrigable lands in Eastern Oregon. But, so far as I am advised, no actual work has yet been undertaken.
To all these arid lands the irrigation is the prime, ab- solute necessity. No one who has not witnessed the marvel- lous transformation can credit it. Houses are built, the land is fenced, the rich green of alfalfa, clover, and the cereals replaces the dull gray of sage brush and burnt up grasses; orchards become as if by magic a feature in the landscape. Towns spring up, schools and churches open their doors. Railroad traffic grows. Stock of all kinds rapidly increase.
Recognizing, then, that water is everything let the new comer satisfy himself, not only that the supply is ample and constant, never falling below the absolute necessities of the land, but that his title to the supplj' is clear, indisputable, and not likely to be challenged. I have indicated the sources of title to water rights. They are easily investigated in Oregon, and the laws are veiy clear.
The districts in which vegetable growth and the perfection of the fruit crop in color, size and taste are assisted by irrigation are not irrigable land in the full sense. Hood River has a rainfall, almost entirely in the late fall and winter months of 39 inches, and yet no fruit grower there thinks of doing Avithout irrigation through the summer months if it is accessible to his land. The fruit lands of the Snake and Columbia Valleys are dependent on irrigation for success.
Irrigation is also now being pushed in the Rogue River Valley in Jackson County. Several projects, involving very heavy outlay, have been undertaken in Lake and Klamath Counties in South Eastern Oregon, by which several hundred thousand acres will be irrigated.
®ran0v«^'^trttic»n
CHAPTER X
TRANSPORTATION
The following condensed account of the railroad situation in Oregon, as it appeal's in the fall of 1904, must be taken distinctly as of that date. Most of it was written nine months ago, and even in that short time changes have been wrought.
The management of the Oregon Railroad and Navigation Company and of the Southern Pacific lines in Oregon has been consolidated under one responsible head, and Mr. E. E. Calvin was placed in that important position.
It is too early yet to discount the results to the State of this and other pending or prospective changes.
But the following account will serve to put the intending settler in possession of facts regarding the transportation facilities of any particular district in which he is interested.
Entering the state at Huntington, midway on its Eastern boundary, connecting with the Oregon Short Line and its through service to Omaha and Chicago, via the Union Pacific, the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company's line (called the O. R. & N. for convenience sake), runs Northwest to Uma- tilla, just West and South of the junction of the Columbia and Snake Rivers, a distance of 217 miles. The Union Pacific thus finds its Northwestern outlet. The railroad, on its course to Portland, there turns directly West, but in so doing leaves the starting point of quite a network of railroads, leaving Oregon and heading through Eastern Washington for Spokane in the Northeast, and providing on the way for the needs of a rich portion of Umatilla County in Oregon, and of the far- famed Walla Walla County and Palouse district in Washing- ton.
From Umatilla Junction to Portland the 0. R. & N. fol- lows the exact course of the Columbia River, along the North-
140 SETTLEK'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
em boundary of Oregon, fur 1S7 miles. For nearly 100 miles the railroad nins through a desolate strip of sandj- or rocky river valley, giving but occasional glimpses of the uplyin^ wheat lands, prosperous farms, fertile side valleys, broad cattle and sheep ranches, stretching for many scores of miles over the whole Avide expanse of Oregon to the South. For many years the settlei's of the interior brought their freight wagons to the railroad stations, with their grain and wool, while their cattle and sheep were driven in great bands in due season to the cars. Of recent years it has been found that with the provision of smaller railroads up first one and then another of the Northward flowing streams, tracing the valleys from the high plateau to the great river, population and trade sprang into being all along this Northern edge of the Inland Empire of Oregon. From Heppner Junction to Heppner, for 45 miles runs one railroad; from Biggs to Shani- ko, 70 miles, another. The preparations for yet another from Arlington to Olex are now announced to be far advanced.
West of the Dalles, the Columbia has broken through the barrier of the Cascade Mountains, and the sandy roadbed is exchanged for that blasted out of the rocky margin of the river. Foaming waters, towering precipices, rugged rocks, fern-clad gorges, combine in successive scenes of beauty that receive the wayworn traveler from the East, and never grow old and familiar to the native born. At Hood River the railroad gathers in for both Western and Eastern destinations the fruit products of that fruit oasis.
In following the 0. R. & N. to Portland from Hood River, Ave pass through the Northern end of the Cascade timber belt lying in Oregon. Sawmills abound. The side creeks and waterfalls are harnessed in the service of man, and the railroad is the carrier of its products to both home and foreign markets.
Quite an important lumber industry has also been dev«^l- oped in the Blue Mountain region, between Huntington ami L'matilla. The lumber industries along the 0. R. & N. are growing fast.
TRANSPORTATION 141
Portland stands at the confluence of the Columbia from the East and the Willamette from the South. The Columbia and the 0. R. & N. railroad bring to the shipping tliere the products of Avhat is rightly and reasonably termed the Inland Empire. The Southern Pacific Railroad and the steamboats of the Willamette River bring to her the products of Western Oregon, to which region we now turn.
When the limits of the Citj^ of Portland were last fixed by charter, many jokes were passed at the expanse of acreage included. But the growth of the city, steadily, though silent- h", pressing on, indicates that they who marked out that area were wise in their generation.
At the Union Depot of the city two great streams of traffic, from the East and South, converge. The freiglit cars of nearly every considerable railroad in the United States are found in the yards, while in the wide halls and waiting rooms of the passenger depot are passing or sitting represen- tatives of all of the nationalities which have heard the call of the Pacific Northwest.
As the 0. R. & N. is the railroad of the North and East of Oregon, and her highway to the East, so the Southern Pacific is the railroad of the West and South. The main line to the South takes the middle of the Willamette Valley to its head, South of the University town of Eugene crosses the divide into the Umpqua Valley, still South, over a rough, dividing, hilly region, into the Rogue River Valley, well called the Italy of Oregon, and so South into the Calapooi.-i Range of division between Oregon and California. Then on South to the Bay City and its activities.
The main line of the Southern Pacific via Oregon City, Salem, Albany, Eugene, Roseburg, Grants Pass and Ashland, connects these centers of population with the metropolis and with each other. The West Side line, of nearly 100 miles, fills a similar function for the Western division of the great valley, and joins Hillsboro, Forest Grove, McMinnville, Inde- pendence and Corvallis with Portland. The Woodburn & Natron branch of 93 miles runs along the Eastern side of the
142 SETTLER'S ILVNDBOOK TO OREHOX
valloy. and, after jiassinjr through about 80 miles of very rich and \vell settled farming country, enters the timber dis- trict of the Cascades at its Western edge, where several of the very largre lumber mills are placed.
Yet another Southern Pacific line in Oregon is the Sheri- dan & Airlie branch on the West side of the Willamette River, passing from Portland to the Southwest for 7fl miles. For some 35 miles it cuts through a rich belt of land adapted for and already growing large quantities of hops and fruit, and especially fit for dairying— an attractive district to the small farmei', the fruit and vegetable raiser, the hop .<>TO\ver: in fact for the large class whose money capital ranges be- tween $500 and $2500. For the rest of its course this branch passes through larger and more costlj' farms.
In the region served l)y lln' Sduthcrn Pacific, and forming the most attractive part of Western Oregon, 166,236 of the people were settled according to the census of 1900 leaving out the urban population of county seats, of 117,306. It is no very bold prophecy to predict a population three times as large when the next decennial census is taken, since ten times the present number would not fill the area to the density of people found on lands of several of the Eastern States.
One of the few independent railroads in Oiegon is the Astoria & Columbia River, running along the bank of the Columbia by the Northern Pacific ti-ack to Goble and thence on its own tracks to Astoria, and on to Seaside with a branch to Fort Stevens. Its mileage at present 80, but its terminus at Seaside is temporary, and an immense traffic is in prosi)ect whenever it reaches the timber and coal of the Nehalem, and the timber of Tillamook and Lincoln Counties. Its chief business so far has been between Portland and Astoria, the seaport of the Columbia, the headquarters of the salmon fishery industry, which l)ids fair to be the largest lumber exjxu-ting point on the Northwest Coast in the neai- future.
The onlv railroad strikins: across Oretron Eastwards from
TRANSPORTATION 143
the ocean and South of the 0. R. & N. and Portland is that known as the Corvallis & Eastern. Starting from the port of Yaquina, it crosses the Coast Range and connects with the West side line of the Southern Pacific at Corvallis, 97 miles South of Portland, thence to Albanj-, where it crosses the main line of the Southern Pacific, 79 miles South of Port- land. From Albany Eastward, through a rich farming coun- try of 30 miles and then, holding its EastAvard course up the valley of the North Santiam, this railroad reaches the heart of the great timber belt of the Cascades. It is constructed and running trains for a distance of 133 miles from the Coast. Its pass over the Cascades is entirely practicable, and will open on the Eastern slope of the mountains, whenever extended from its present, temporaiy terminus, into the im- mense area of Central Oregon at a point about 90 miles South of the Columbia and of the 0. R. & N. line. Thence its course will be in a generally Southeastern direction, following the gi'eat depression which takes in the wide irrigable districts of the Des Chutes Valley, of the Crooked River Valley, of the Harney and Malheur Lakes and Valleys, and so down the Malheur River nearly to its junction Avith the Snake, and to a connection at Ontario or some neighboring point with the Oregon Short Line.
Obviously an easy connection could be made in the Wil- lamette Valley between this line at some point before it com- mences the upward grades toAvards the Cascades and one or other of the Southern Pacific roads, thus affoi-ding Portland a fresh access to the great timber belt, and, Avhat is yet more important, a neAV and easy road into the yet untouched Central and Southeastern Oregon. To any one familiar Avitli this immense region of unde\'eloped resources, and vested with the historic sense of what has folloAved railroad building into other tracts then bare of population, it is indeed strange that this opportunity has been suffered to lie dormant for so long. This last named enterprise occupies the middle gi'ound of partial completion.
The most promising of the independent railroads in Ore-
144 S1-:TTLK1J\S liANl)B(j(Jlv TU OREGON
jron, from its inception to the present time, was the Cohimbia Southern, already mentioned in connection with the 0. K. (5c N. Starting' from Biggs, a station on the O. R. & N. 108 miles East of Portland, it follows a directly Southerly course, midway between the Des Chutes and the John Day River Valleys, and has reached Shaniko, 70 miles. There a new town of 500 people has grown in a night, and serves as a collecting: point for an immense traffic, chiefly in wool and jirain. The wool sheds at Shaniko are the largest on the Coast, 450 feet by 100 feet and 150 feet by 80 feet, and in the season filled to overflowing. This road, it is asserted and believed, has paid its way and earned considerable profits, as each section lias been constructed and opened.
Tt was undorstdiid tliat Mr. Harriman undertook to pro- vide .^1,500,000 for the Southward extension of this roatl for 91 miles, from Shaniko to Bend on the Des Chutes River.
Another railroad enterprise affecting the extreme North- east of Oregon, must not be forgotten. The line between Rijniria and Lewistou is to follow the North and P'ast banks of the Snake River, and its extension either Southward to Elgin in Wallowa County and a connection there with the Elgin branch of the 0. R. & N. or down the main Snake River toward Huntington is to follow. This improvement is one of the long talked of and promised lines. It seems now to have entered the category of early construction.
The year 1903 saw the construction, completion and open- ing to traffic of the electric railroad of the Oregon Water Power & Railway Company from Portland to Cazadero, in Clackamas County, the new construction, beyond the former street car line, now covering 35 miles. On the Clackamas River, at the end of this section is a magnificent water power of force enough to provide for operation of a road many miles longer than the section now in question. The huge dam, to supply 20,000 hor.se power is nearing completion. The struc- tures are solid, the roadbed good, tlu^ cars for both passengers and freight modern and convenient. This company looks both to passenger and freight traffic and has laid its line through
TRANSPORTATION 145
a part of Clackamas County which is directly tributary to Portland.
It may be permitted to cast one glance ahead towards the future development of Oregon.
With the increase of population which is certain, aye inevitable when the advantages the State has to offer are bet- ter appreciated in the East, comes the urgent need of the extension and the improvement of the roads of the state. Not only for the money advantage of being able to haul more, and more cheaply, of the products of the farms and ranges to town, market, and warehouse, but as much for the social benetit to the family. Climate and soil conspire to make movement frum and to the farm home unpleasant, tedious, and costly through the moist months of early and late winter. It is true that we do not fear the blinding snow storm and cruel blizzard. Nature is a kind mother to us, but in winter time a very tearful one.
As more numerous, and more energetic citizens are enrol- led among us it will be easier to combine for common im- provement. An old fashioned sight has been that of a bunch of farmers, pipe in mouth, gently moving a few spadefuls of dirt into the nearest muddy chuck hole in a country road, while they put in their time and that of their teams at the legal ''road work" required of them. Much time wasted and nothing done. And still, within a mile or two of eveiy such scene, there runs ever by to waste on that rapid creek the water power which might help to replace that succession of mud holes, only by courtesy called a road, and to operate at nominal cost over its successor, the light electric road, the cars which would save the farmer's wagon and team their crawl to the country town. That kind of road would give him and his family a daily instead of weekly market for butter and eggs and vegetables and poultry and honey and fruit- would carry his children to a good graded school— would aid him and his wife and children to keep uj) their connection with the church of their young days — would carry him and
146
.SKTTLKirs llAM)i;i)()K TO OREGON
them to Grange, Lodge, and Society meeting, and give them access to the books in the library that surely will be a factor in the life of every community here.
What would most of the Eastern States give for the everlasting water powers at our doors'?
®imU«r
CHAPTER XI
TIMBER
The ordinary new comer seeking a home in Oregon is in- terested generally in the prosperity of the State and should know something of one of its most important industries. He may also be invited to buy land of which a lai'ger or less proportion may be timber covered. He should see how such land should be valued to him, and whether the trees on it are a drawback to the use of the land for agricultural purposes, or if they constitute an asset in his purchase of greater or less worth.
On a colored map issued by the Forestry Department of the U. S. of the State of Oregon, till recently hanging before my eyes, green of various tints indicated the forest covered lands— yellow denoted the treeless area. The yellow would have predominated over the green, had it not been that the great green colored tract of the Blue Mountains in Eastern Oregon more than balanced the distribution, and made cred- ible the published estimate that the wood lands of Oregon cover 54,300 square miles, or 57 per cent of the area of the State. The dark green patches on the map indicated timber of more than 50,000 feet to the acre — a somewhat lighter green over 30,000 feet to the acre, and still lighter color 15,000 feet to the acre. It is poor timber in Western Oregon that does not yield over 20,000 feet to the acre, principally yellow fir, with much cedar, hemlock, spruce, and some pine. In Eastern Oregon, on the Eastern slope of the Cascades pine predominates, the timber is of more scattering growth, and the yield falls until large acreages produce an average of 8000 feet to the acre.
The recent official report to the Government on the timber resources of the State shows about 225 billion feet standing,
150 SK'I'TLEK'S IIAXDI'.OOK T< > ni?K(i()N'
or enough to last 225 years at the rate of the cut of 1903. The rapid re-foresting of tracts long since burned over will go some way to make up for any excess in this estimate. I know many ti-aets in the old burned area now covered with second growth timber up to .3 feet in thickness 5 feet from the ground and not less than 60 feet high.
The Portland saw mills in 1903 cut about 400 million feet. The Columbia River and Coast Counties mills added about 150 million feet to the output. The great mills of the Willamette Valley, and of Southern and Eastern Oregon, certainly aggregated 500 million feet more. So that the estimated 1,000,000,000 for the State for 1903 is well within the mark. There are between 500 and COO saw mills in Oregon ready for work or operating now, and they employ in the neighborhood of 7000 men. I believe these figures to be conservative.
On the larger scale of yield per acre of timber one square mile of forest will load over 1000 railroad cars with lumber.
The above figures will give some notion of our natural resources and of the rate at which the timber is disappearing.
Who, then, are the buyers of the standing timber?
First, immense areas are owned by the big mills, which enterprises have thus secured themselves against the enor- mous rise in px'ices they would have to face if speculators had had full sway. These properties, we may assume, will be fairly consumed as the market demands may justify.
Secondly: Eastern syndicates have bought tract after tract whicli they are holding in reserve against the not dis- tant time when the Pacific slope will be practically the only forests left within the Nation's boundaries accessible to com- merce.
Thirdly: Where timber is near existing mills, and espec- ially above the mills of logable creeks or rivei*s, the market is there, ready to hand, and such timber adds materially to the value of the property.
Tni-BER 151
The same is true when the timber off a ranch can be cut and delivered at not much expense into a large river on which
mills are placed.
Such rivers are the Willamette, Clackamas, Santiam, Yamhill, Maiy's River, Mohawk, McKenzie, the Umpqua, Coos River, or almost any one of the Southern Oregon rivers. Specially is this the case where the timber can be got into either the Upper or Lower Columbia.
The timber where the real value is no guide at all to the market value is that held by the small owner, either sur- rounded by the holdings of large mills or syndicates, or where the only outlet is commanded or controlled at the mercy of the others, and I consider his timber an asset on which it is impossible to set any value at all.
In the other cases, where the small owner has an acces- sible market, the value of the timber on the stump ranges from 50 cents to $1 per 1000 feet in accordance with its quality, its accessibility, its density, and with the need of the buyer.
Every ranch of course needs some timber. For myself I would not buy Avithout it in Western Oregon. In Eastern Oregon the first thing a buyer should do is to plant.
Not only for fence and shed buildings and fuel but for protection to stock, the ranch should never be stripped of its trees.
Another interest in the timber supply to the incoming settler is on the side of wages. In nearly all the large timber tracts the logging is carried on during the winter months. Though the work is hard the wages are good, ranging from $2 to $3 a day, and for board in the logging camps not over $4 a week is charged. Many of the new comers do, and many more may, obtain employment for the Avinter months not far from their homes, and so save quite an appreciable sum to add to the stocking of the farm in the following year.
It may be noted also that much of the logging is still done by ox teams, though the steam engine and wii-e cable
152 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
are found in all the larger camps. For big 4 year old steers and bulls of that or greater age good prices are paid by the loggers.
A word may be said here on the value of logged off timber lands. When the waste and debris of the loggers has been carefully burned off and grass seed sown on the ashes good pasture for all classes of stock is obtained. But it is only in exceptional cases and where the stumps are not too large to be handled that it pays to grub and clear for agricultural or even for orchard purposes such logged off lands. Special fruit districts like Hood River are exceptions because of the limited area of the fruit lands.
I have myself cleared some ten acres for orchard purposes, but the stumps of the big firs, some of them ten and eleven feet across, cost me over 60 cents each for explosives only. It was not a commercial success though the orchard I suppose now is worth a good deal more than the clearing cost. AU this means that brush and second growth timber lands it will pay to clear, but not the first growth timber lands with huge stumps and roots. Value such lands at only their worth for feeding or pasture land.
cS&
^i^lji^vxe^
CHAPTER XII FISHERIES
The same leasoiis which bring a short chapter on timbex' within the limits of this book impel me to say something about the fisheries.
The salmon yield of the Columbia River averages a value of about $3,000,000 yearlj-. In addition the value of the fisheries of every bay and estuary along the Coast must be taken into account.
On the Columbia River the spring fishery lasts five months, from April 15th to August 15th. In the Coast bays and rivers the dates of the runs vary, the Chinook salmon beginning about the third week in Avigust, and the "pack" of Chinook and Silversides going on till well on in November.
The Columbia River fishermen are banded in "The Col- umbia River Fishermen's Protective Union," having head- quarters at Astoria. For the season of 1904 prices are 5 cents per pound for fish of 25 pounds of over.
There is considerable jealousy against non-union fishermen, and this has been cari'ied to dangerous and law breaking lengths. This extends only to men fishing for profit for others. On all the salmon rivers and bays which I am familiar with the residents and their neighbors find both pleasure and profit in laying in a store which often lasts well into or through the folloAving winter of salt or smoked fish. And many of these residents and neighbors provide the fish- ing force for the cannery nearby,
I was amused at a letter a month or two ago from a Norwegian correspondent in Minnesota, asking if a "farmer was allowed to catch salmon in the river?" Evidently he had recollections of the salmon river flowing by his old home, where the rent for the salmon fishery by rod and line amounted to more than the value of the farm.
156 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGON
I told him to come to Oregon and catch all the salmon he wanted, so long as the close time for the fish was observed.
The recent introduction of cold storage plants for salmon has added new markets for the fishermen and prevents the dictation of price by the cannery men of which they used to complain. Both Chinook and steelhead salmon are now frozen and in that condition are shipped to the East in car- loads and trainloads. A million and a half pounds of steel- head salmon are reported as shipped East in 1902.
Oregon has also established State hatcheries for salmon eggs on several of her rivers. About 60 million little salmon were hatched in 1903. The catching in recent years of marked salmon turned into the rivers four or five years previously has shown not only that the artificially propagated fish live and thrive but tliat they return in due time to the home of their infancy.
It is not generally known that Oregon produces on Yaquina Bay a most delicious oyster, small in size, but always asked for when once tasted. The fishery has been in ex- istence for many j^ears. Until the Corvallis & Eastern Rail- road gave direct connection from Yaquina to the Willamette Valley and to Portland San Francisco was the chief market. The oysters formed a large and the most profitable part of the lading of the lumber schooners that used to ply in a happy-go-lucky fashion to the Bay City.
The railroad now takes all the oysters that can be got and the beds are kept raked all too close to supply the demand.
Some four or five years ago a determined effort was made, in which Prof. F. L. Washburn, then Biologist to the Oregon Agricultural College, now filling that post in Minnesota, was very active and persevering, to transport Eastern oysters from Maryland to Yaquina Bay.
The experiment has been under the charge of Hon. Geo. King, now one of the Commissioners for Lincoln County. He Avrites a verj' interesting letter in reply to my inquiries as to
FISHERIES 157
their success. He says, ''The Eastern oysters have spawned freely every year, but the sudden and extreme changes of temperature of the water at the critical period when the spawn is floating round in the water is fatal to the experi- ment so far as the propagation plan is concerned, which was the ultimate result hoped for by the promoters of this experi- ment. Their idea was to get the imported oysters by artificial or other means to spawn and fertilize in these waters, so that after a few years the first offspring would become fully ac- climated and soon be of commercial importance. However the experiment has determined several facts and featui-es of the conditions which exist. First, the Eastern oysters are sexual and it requires nine days for the spawn to fertilize naturally. During this period it is subjected to extreme changes of tem- perature in the waters here which do not exist in their native waters. Next, our native oysters are hermaphrodite and are already fertilized when spawned." Mr. King adds that they are making inquiries about the Japanese oysters to ascertain if they also are hermaphrodite in type. If so endeavor will be made to introduce them here.
Just now two carloads of Eastern seed oysters have been deposited in the Yaquina Bay beds by a group of Oregon men who hope to repeat in Oregon the success which has followed a similar undertaking at Toke Point on Willapa Bay, Wash- ington. The same authority above quoted reports that the tiny Easterners are doing very well, having already grown an eighth of an inch in their new resting place.
Fisheries for deep sea fish, cod, halibut, and others, are accessible from Astoria, Yaquina, and Coos. This industry invites to greater development.
^djooiii atxb Q^hixvchea
CHAPTKH XIII
SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES
For twenty-five years and more I have watched the schools of the state increasing in number, in teaching power, and in cost, so growing ever faster than the people of the State. I have seen the foundations of the higher learning expand more quickly than the common schools. I have seen College and University open their doors more widely to tlie boys and girls who flocked to them from every county. The State has counted on her people when she has from time to time ac- cepted the gifts of the Nation conditioned on ample provision for their housing and development. Legislatures have bucked and haggled over appropriations desired for better roads and bridges, for the installation of State offices and the salaries of their holders, but for the University, the Agricultural College and the Norman School the purse strings have been unloosed. Not very many of the original school houses, log built and rough boarded, at the cross roads and hidden in the brush at the corner of some field, are left.
Though the wide districts have been divided once and yet again, and the special school tax for the new house has borne hardly on a scattered population and scarce 'money, yet the burden has been bravely lifted and the neat, white painted, school house, belfry on top, looks boldly out.
In one district of my acquaintance, among the hills, the people met a year or two ago, and resolved that they would have a new school house, and that without a tax. One fetched lumber from the mill, another provided nails, the cross roads store keeper found shingles and paint. All the labor needed ■was freely given, and two or three spelling bees, and a couple of entertainments of recitals, and songs, and debates, made necessary the suppers whereat the house wives' and their daughters' baskets were auctioned off at a great rate to the
hV2 SKTTIJ-:irs IIANDI'.ooIv to OKKCiOX
ncijihborhood's youiifr men and old. 80 the funds came in. jiiid ere the winter was over the new school house was up and luiid for. All honor to those who have made it possible to read list after list of farms for sale in every county in the State and see at the end of each the drawing notice — "School house within 1 mile"— three miles is a rare distance and over that one can hardly be found.
Good it is to me also to read over the "alumni list" of University and College and find the ''school teaching" occupation so frequently taken to for llio first year or two of individual life.
Bear in mind how young is Oregon — how few the years between this day of steam and electric i^ower, of farm tele- phones aiid niiiil iVce delivery routes and that lime when the white tents and worn wagons f)f the i)iuneers were the seeds of our towns and cities, and the smoke of the Indian lighted fires clouded our mountain views. So the hard dry figures of the Reports of our Superintendent of Public In- struction handed to our Legislature at each session l)ecome milestones on the way f)f progress of our State, and to some of us mean more than clearing house returns and growing figures of assessment and taxation.
Here are some of the figures I read :
Xuml)er os school districts.— In 1S7:'). (i42. In 1902. 2121.
Total Minount of scho.d funds :-lii 1S73, $184,010. In 1!)02, $2,3S3,074.
AVhole amount jiaid teachers ])er annum. — 1S7.3, .$154,944. In 1902, $1,.317,749.
Tlie iumiber of young jicoplc Ix'twecu 4 and 2(1 years of age. in 1S7:1. .3S. 070, in 1902, l;5S,446. Tiie number of luipils enrollr.l in the schools, in 1S74, 20,6S0; in 1902. 100,6o9.
The significance of llir last set of figures is seen in the calculation of percentages of school ])upils lo the total inim- ber of persons of school age. In 1874, .■'>.3.47 of every hundreil attended school, in 1902, 7.3.42 in other Avords from a little over one half to somewhat under three fourths. The iHnnl)er
SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES 163
of months of school teachinii in the year ranges between 10.33 in Multnomah and o in Wallowa County. There are but three counties with an average of less than 6 months' school teaching in the yeai'.
During the same term, from 1873 to 1902, the value of school property in the aggregate has risen from $322,240 to $3,561,737.
Although on the up grade the Oregon schools are far from the level land at the top of the rise. The standard of teach- ing must still be raised and the Normal Schools and the Colleges must be ever supported the more warmly by the Legislatures. Opinions may, and they do, differ as to the subjects to be included in the common school universal course. There is surely a limit to the number of such courses as to the width they cover. There can be no question on the thoroughness desirable in whatever knowledge is to be taught. And it is in the qualifying of the teachers in that respect that I, for one, desire more time and money spent !
The opportunities for the higher education in Oi-egou are found at various institutions, some established and controlled by the State, others by religious bodies of nearly all recog- nized denominations.
The table which follows is from the returns furnished tq the Superintendent of Public Instruction foi- the year 1902. Those for 1903 are not yet published.
A short account of the more important follows. Space forbids special mention of tlie whole list.
XOT STATK CONTROLLED INSTITUTIONS
Faculty Students 1902
1. — Albany — Catholis 3 65.
2. — Salem — Catholic 4 99. — 1901
3. — Albany College — Pesbyterian 10 192.
4. — Bishop Scott, Portland — Episcopal 9 CO.
5. — Capital Business College, Salem — Nonsect 4 99.
7. — College of Philomath — United Brethren 5 60.
8. — Dallas College — United Evangelical 6 117.
10. — Eugene Divinity School, Eugene 3 40.
11. — Holmes' Business College, Portland 8 263.
12. — McMinnville College — Baptist 9 158.
14. — Mt. Angel Academy — Benedictine Sisters 3 216.
15. — Mt. Angel College — Catholic Benedictines ...;19 128. 17. — Pacific College, Newberg — Friends 6 117.
164 SETTLER'S HAXD1500K To UKEGOX
18. — I'iu-ilic Uiiiversitv, Forest Grove — Congrcfjat'l. 12 245.
19. — Philomath College — United Brethren 6 86.
20. — Portland Acadeiuv — Nonsectarian, Portland. ... 17 368.
21. — Portland Busine.ss ColleRc — Commerce 18 — '01 232.
22. — Sacred Heart .Vcademv — Catholic — Lagrande . . 7 95.
26. — St. Francis Collece — Catholic — Baker Citv.... 3 183.
27. — St. Helens Hall — Protestant Episc — Portland. . 16 177.
28. — St. Joseph's Academy — Catholic — Pendleton . . 7 200.
30. — St. Mary's Academy — Catholic — Jacksonville.. 1 — '01 61.
31. — St. Mary's .A.cademy — Catholic — Portland. ... IG 310.
34. — Liberal University — Liberal — Silverton 9 52.
30. — Willamette University — Methodist — Salem ....47 400.
STATE CONTROLLED
6. — Central Oregon Normal School, Drain 8 89.
9. — Eastern Oregon Normal School, Weston 10 176.
16. — State Agricultural College, Corvalis 30 488.
24. — Southern Oregon Normal School, Ashland .... 9 120.
25. — State Normal School, Monmouth 14 198.
35. — University of Oregon, Eugene 23 373.
The University of Oregon stands at Eugene, the County scat of Lane County. 125 miles South of Portland, at the Iiead of the Willamette Valley.
The University was foundsd in 1S72 and has the advantage of the U. S. appropriation to lands for State University pur- poses.
The T'nivcrsity Academy is the preparatory department of the University and a part of it. U covers the 11th and 12th grades of the public high school. The University itself is ''an integral jiart of the jMiblic shool system of the State. '' and embraces 13th, 14th, lotli, and IGth grades of the public " school system, finishing the work begun in the grammar and '^ jMiblic schools and continued in the high schools."
The students are of both sexes and come from a wide range, both as to their homes, and as to the studies they desire to pursue.
The University buildings are beautifully placed on a campus of 27 acres, on rising ground, well planted with trees and in view of the mountains on both sides.
The .•^Indents' expenses vary from $1.')0 to .$250 a school year.
The faculty is composed of professors of high attainments. The system of education takes a wide range. The tone and s)>irit of the whole institution is high, and the I'tiivrrsity spirit prevails.
SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES 165
The President, J*. L. Campbell, a Harvard graduate of 1886, was Principal <<f the State Normal School at Monmouth from 1891 to 190?, and accepted the Presidency of the Uni- versity for the year 1902-3. The law school of the University has its headquarters in Portland as has also the Medical College. Both these departments are well attended and doing good work.
The Stale Agricultural College of Oi'egon is peculiarly the farmers' college. It touches their life at so many points. It gives their children a practical, technical, and yet a liberal education, at nominal cost. By its bulletins freely distributed it spreads the knowledge of its experiments and discoveries among the farm homes of Oregon. By the extending series of farmers' institutes it now reaches in turn every district in the State, even the most remote. By its model farms at Corvallis and in Union County it demonstrates to every visi- tor the farming methods best adapted to our State, the best crops to raise, the best animals to keep. In its Veterinary and Bacteriological departments it informs on animal and plant diseases, evident and microscopic. In the Chemical department it analyses for the farmer his soils or water and demonstrates the percentage of chemical or commercial pro- ducts of the farm.
The State of Oi'egon has an investment at Corvallis of not less than $250,000 in value, and surely it pays the State excellently well.
The President, Dr. Thos. M. Gateh, is one of the earliest and most widely known educators in the State. The faculty are thoroughly qualified and earnest people. A word may be permitted on the feminine side of the College, probably as beneficial to Oregon as the other, certainly advancing in importance and in general appreciation every year since its establishment 14 years ago under the same presiding genius, Miss M. C. Snell, M. D., whose widely felt influence now reaches and benefits almost all the counties of Oregon.
The Experiment Station has for head Dr. Jas. "Withy-
](i() SIlTTLKirs llANDI'.ooK TO OHKGON
combe, lie ami the other meml)eis uf the Siatiuu ("ouucil hold the farmers' institutes, and in that and in other ways are in direct contact with the farming", stock, and orchard interests of the State. Always accessible, ready to receive and answer written or oral questions no one can appraise the worth to Oregon of the Station and its staff.
The boys here, as in all other State Agricultural Colleges, are under militar}- discipline. Drilled by a U. S. officer almost every day the college regiment, now over 400 strong, shows well on all public occasions, the boj's being an exceptionally healthy and well grown set of young fellows.
That their spirit was right was shown when the call came to Oregon for .soldiers for the Philippines. I think 32 of the Agricultural College students responded to the summons.
The college buildings and their equipment are second to none on the Pacific slope.
The expenses of the student range between $140 and $200 a year, the smaller figure being, I think, by far the most usual. The conditions of admission are that the applicant must be 15 years old, or over, and pass examination in reading, spell- ing, geography, arithmetic (written and mental), United States history, English grammar, and algebra to quadratic equations. Or from other colleges, so far as the courses are equivalent, an equal standing will confer the right. Gradu- ates from the public gTaded schools and those who have com- pleted a high school course are also admitted on certain con- ditions.
The next in number of students is the Willamette Uni- versity at Salem. This is carried on under the supervision of the Methodist Church.
But in neither this nor in any other of the colleges and academies of the State, so far as I know, are restrictions drawn so tightly as to exclude any students willing to sub- mit to the rules of the school.
The Williamette University has had several vicissi-
SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES 167
tudes iu its career. It was proposed to move it to Portland, then to earrj'^ on two institutions, one at Portland the other at Salem in its original home. A few years ago a consolidation of the interests of the University at Salem was accomplished, and since that time it has grown and prospered. It has a lai-ge faculty, is well attended and doing excellent w^ork.
Perhaps the quickest development in any one of these institutions is seen in the "Albany College," under the fostering care of the Presbyterians. Only a few years ago its numbers of faculty and students had dwindled greatly, and while it was recognized as one of the older colleges of the State, it carried little weight. A young and energetic President, W. H. Lee, was placed at its head, and his person- ality and work bore fruit at once. Last year it returned 192 students. The boys took a good place in general attainments, and especially in college athletics, and the sense of life and growth became diffused through the college and its connec- tions.
Pacific University. Forest Grove, is developed from Tuali- tin Academy — I think the first school bearing that now old fashioned name, established by our Pioneers. It is cared for by the Congregationalists, and many of our most active citi- zens of today are on the list of its graduates. It has kept throughout a distinct flavor of classical learning, and is full of vitality today. It has received many gifts of recent years, and shows new buildings, modern equipment, and gives ex- cellent teaching.
The Catholics iu Oregon lill a large space iu the field of education. No less than nine out of the 36 in the above list of institutions belong to them. It will be borne in mind, however, that the majority of pupils are children, of child age and attainments, in instituting any com- parison based on numbers with the other institutions in the list.
An exception should be made, however, of the Mount
168 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO ORECOX
Angel Cullcgc, 42 miles South and East of Portland, G miles from Woodbiun and 4 from Silverton. Tliese schools are under the charge of the Benedictine order, the Sisters re- turning 216, and the Brothers 128, as under their charge. All these institutions are remarkable and well worth a visit. I understand that an estate of 5000 acres is tributary to the college, academy, convent and seminary. The buildings are stone built large, costlj', and command wide views, the site being most beautiful.
The State Normal School at Monmouth is the oldest and most extensive of these institutions. Its purpose is almost exclusively the training of teachers for the public schools. In 1902 it reported 200 students. Its necessity is plain in view of the fact that upwards of 600 teachers are noAv needed annually in the public schools of Oregon.
The State Normal at Monmouth has a history of 20 years of usefulness. Not until 1893 did the State begin to ap- propriate money for its support. Since that time, however, the Legislature has been more or less liberal to it and its equipment has been improved.
The Normal School has been fortunate in its Presidents. President Campbell, now of the University of Oregon, was at its head for ten years, and was followed by E. D. Ressler, A. M., who has shown as much energy, and is meeting Avith no less success. A most important post. The intlueuce of the President of the State Normal Schools, one and all, is trans- mitted through generations of teachers yet to begin their work.
Three other Normal Schools will be seen in tlie list: — at Weston, for Eastern Oregon, at Drain for Middle Oregon, and Ashland for South Western Oregon. All are doing good work.
I leave, reluctantly, so much unsaid on education in Ore- gon. The institutions not specially mentioned may, I fear, feel neglected. !Many of them just as much merit notice for
SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES 169
hard work, consciencionsly clone, as the hirger schools. But space absolutel}' forbids.
To the farmer imquestionably the most important fra- ternal society is the Grange. The Master of the State Grange writes me that in Oregon there are 100 subordinate granges and about 5200 members. But in studying the Grange direct- ory I only find 15 counties represented. I give the list alpha- betically arranged : Benton, Clackamas, Columbia, Coos, Gil- liam, Lane, Linn, Mai'ion, Multnomah, Polk, Tillamook, Uma- tilla, Union, Washington, Yamhill. I observe also that the result of the setting up of one Grange in a county is that it is surely followed by others. But Oregon has 33 counties. There is, then, ground for extension. A good many years ag'o the Grange was criticized on the gi'ound that "politics" (to misuse a noble word) was rampant within it. I offer no opinion whether the charge was well or ill founded. I men- tion it only to testify now that it is no longer heard.
I believe that the subordinate Granges are today fulfilling their great objects, Avhich, as I understand them, are the as- sociation of the members and their families for fraternal intercourse, and for mutual improvement not only in agri- cultural methods and productions, but in whatever beautifies and raises the standard of home life. So far as I can gather up the threads of the work of the Grange it might be summed up in the one pregnant sentence: "the better the Granger, the better the citizen."
Fraternal societies have a very strong hold in Oregon, and their influence is ever Avidening.
The beneficiary societies which have the strongest list of membership are :
The A. 0. U. W. with about 11,000 members.
The INIaccabees with about 6,000 members.
The Woodmen of the World with about 14,000 members.
The United Artisans with about 10,000 members.
The Lions with about 4,000 members.
The Foresters on their beneficiary side.
170 SKTTLKirs HANDBOOK TO ORKGON
The other strong societies, wliieh do nut eml)ocly the insurance principle seem to be :
The Free Masons.
The Odd Fellows.
The Knights of Pythias.
The Elks.
The Foresters.
The sick relief afforded by the societies varies from $5 to $7 a week.
The impression generally held is tlial llic nidcis uri- stronger in Oregon than in the Eastern states.
Nearly all the masculine orders have feminine associations.
I have no desire to criticize the customs prevailing— but I cannot but think it possible to have too much even of as excellent an institution as Fraternal Society life.
In one pleasant town of 5000 people in which I lived for some time 31 orders had weekly meetings. As a result nearly every one's week was taken up and it was hard to interpose an evening for social, private, or public objects.
CHURCHES
All varieties of religious belief. Christian, Jewish, and a few Asiatic, find homes in Oregon.
The great constituent parts of the Christian Church are active, one and all. The cities abound in churches of every denomination. The country towns try to keep up far too many churches, as I believe. I would that enough Christian energy could be concentrated to maintain large churches, well filled with worshippers and all ministered to l)y adequately paid pastors. So would be found the opportunity in so sparse a country population as ours for the services of a number of circuit traveling ministei?, who would gather at frequent intervals the people from hamlet, crossroads, and widely scattered farm houses, to centrally jilaced school houses and wayside chapels.
I write from experience as well as observation on this gi-eat subject. It is tlie harder to keep up religious life an<l
SCHOOLS AXD CHURCHES 171
influence in the farm house when the chances of meeting one's neighbors in religious services are so very few and far between.
I am aware that this condition is not acquiesced in Ijy several of the important religious bodies. I know here and there one evangelist striving hard to meet the needs of a wide district. But in this, the one chance I have, of making anything like a general appeal, I do but my plain duty in urging a general, an associated, effort by the churches to lift the load of the wants of the far off farms and ranches in spiritual matters. By united and organized effort I am cei-tain it could be done.
The differences Avhich separate the congregation of the City churches dwindle into mere matters of criticism and discussion among the members of such churches who meet for common worship in a country' school house.
CHAPTER XIV GAME AND GAME FISH
While there is work on the farm in Oregon for every day in the year for most farmers if their resolution holds good to allow themselves no play, yet a goodly number of us have not so long outgrown our school days as to forget the joys of holiday time. For those this chai^ter on "Amusements on the Farm" is specially intended — the all work and no play people can skijj it all. It will be observed that it is placed well towards the end of the book, where, I think, it belongs. •
From all the foot hills farms, neighboring on either side of the Cascade Range, on the Coast Range or on the Blue Mountains, deer hunting can be followed.
The following account is drawn "frnni tlic life."
DEER HUNTING
In the game laws of the State of Oregon it is written that it is unlawful to hunt, pursue, take, kill, injure, destroy or have in possession, or to sell or offer for sale, barter or ex- change any female deer except between August 1.") and Nov- ember 1, in this state.
172 .SKTTJ.l.K'.S llAXDJiOUK TO OHEUOX
It is unlaw till at auy time to kill deer for the purpose of selling the Fkiu, hide, horns, hams, or other flesh.
Be it uinljrstood, therefore, that nothing' in this article contained is to be taken as a temptation, invitation or incite- ment to any sportsman, however eai>er he may he, to break these laws. So, whatever imajjinary trip we take, whatever scenes of hunting, pursuing, taking,' killing, and so forth are depicted, are, in the first place, to be strictly confined to the legal term, beginning on the 15th of August.
There is this to be said, however, that while during this same month, the does and their fawns and towheads are apt to lie close in the leafy bottoms, where grass is long and lush. by the side of the trickling, dripping brook, and keep their wanderings in the upper air of higher canyons for night time, when the moon lights them along the trails, the bucks take their chances on the higher points, where the warm sun causes their budding young horns to grow and strengthen as they lie stretched in the open. But how craftily they choose the spot, where eyes and ears are open to every hint of danger, where the least movement in the tall fern catches the keen eye, and the faintest rustle of the twigs, or the ci-ackle of the smallest bough sets those long ears turning, while the twitch- ing nostrils scent so far off the approaching enemy. Any hunter who crawls up on a buck without discovery to witliiii shooting distance may be taken to have graduated in the school of woodcraft. This is still hunting in its essence.
Hounds for deer, nowadays, are things of the past. True, round not a few of the houses in the hills one sees, lounging on the doorsteps, one or tAvo of the old fashioned sort — long, lean heads, hanging ears, speedy looking bodies and legs, smooth skins and thin tails, whole tan colored, or white spotted. But, if remarked on, they have now become "bear dogs," for some few of these black enemies of tlie flocks still lurk under the logs in the deep canyons, and now and again raid their sheep.
Now, the hounds are left at liome wIumi the deer hunt is proposed. To "hunt, pursue, take and kill" three sruns are better than two, and even four can often find stands. The start in the early morning is still the best, and the one who is to follow up and through the canyon stays behind until his followers are placed, one on either side of the head, and perchance a third watches the trail that leads out of the canyon half way up the hill.
I am bound to confess that the prohibition of dogs in the law is hardly ever construed to extend to the clever cur
GAME AND GAME FISH 173
that keeps at his master's heels, and certainly does not ''pursue," even if by strict reading he may be said to ''hunt" the deer. Weie it nut for him wlio knows every turn and corner of the canyon, who cau explore the deepest gulch, who gets in, through and out of those l)lack logs piled high enough to check the watercourse below, wlio is not bound to keep even the faintest trail, but bustles through the densest brush, despising blackberry strands and cucumber vines — • were it not for him the patience of the silent watcher on the stands would often go unrewarded.
The deer in the deep canyon have heard the jiassage up- wards on either side, and lie close hidden in the brush. The one hunter who makes his way through the dense Avood on either side of the little stream fails to drive them out. But Jack, or Pedro, is not to be so fooled. He cruises back and forth with eager Avhines, and presently a sharp bark and a dash into the thicket, and out rushes the deer, up along' the dim path that almost always follows the tiny creek, and so to where it passes from the hazel, cherry and vine maple of the canyon into the thick fern growth of the uplying hill.
His master's call or Avliistle fetches Jack back to his heels, and the deer is left to the tender mercies of the waiting hunt- er. Let no one think that this is "carpet hunting."
The waiting hunters Avalk many a weary mile from stand to stand, breasting the steepest hills, pressing through the thickets and over the black logs. But, to the one who takes the drive up the canyon falls the task that fetches the sweat to the brow, and quickens the heart beats to well-night faint- ing point, unless condition be good and body sound in wind and limb. Three aood fellows take turn and turn about, exchanging drive for wait, till all reach the camping place at evening, happy if burdened with a big deer, to be ,' packed" in turn from the far-off hilltop to the tent.
Most hunters agree that Avhile the present game laws hold, the deer will rather gain than lose in numbers in West- ern Oregon. Even if those laws fail to bind the hillman, Avho has the excuse that he "needs meat" for his family and himself, yet these laws do hold back the two classes who did the most mischief to the stock of deer.
The one, the market hunter, who used boldly to drive his wagon to the nearest railroad depot and turn out four or five deer, to be carried to the city butcher. The other class were the townsmen who used to load up their wagon, take three or four hounds along, choose a (juiet, deer-freciuented spot in
174 Si:TTl.Kirs IIANDIJOOK To OK'K'ION'
fli« ixrvon hills, and camp till every deer in leach had been killed (ir di-iven into the next county.
Throufih all this year elk are protected in Oregon. Their number was getting smaller and smaller year by year. The sight of these great, beaulil'ul creatures in groups, as their <-ustom is, proved too great a temptation to the average man with a gim.
I heard one boast that in the recesses oi the Coast Range, near Table Mountain, he had come acro.ss a band of 11, and keeping hidden, had shot down nine. And this in a place so inacessible thai :ill the meat spoiled befoj-e horses could be brought in to pack out even a small per- centage. ]\rany of us have ridden, walked and hunted over many a county and have never seen one. But a friend of mine had better luck.
"With two friends he was cauijied by the shore of one of the lovely little lakes hidden away among the hills, far from farm and homestead. The big fir trees stopped 50 yards away fi-om the clear water. I'lider the branches of the last one the little tent was pitclied. lioiuid the margin of the lake the rich grass grew, its blades showing in the shallow pool. Two of the hunters went out early the next morning to a distant hunt, and Frank, not being well, was left at cam}). Lying in the shadow of the fir tree, book in hand, he heard a rustle on the far side. Looking up he saw, coming from under the shadow of the lirs, a great bull elk walking towards the pool. Gently cropping the wet grass the big beast moved slowly toward him till knee deep in the still water. There he stood, his great horns flung back, his nose high in air, as he caught the smoke scent from the smoldering camp fire. Catching sight of the little tent he stood fixed and watched. All was still. The elk, satisfied that there was no harm iit the quiet scene, began to eat again, quietly and at ease.
The hunter's rifle was safely in the tent, and he knew that once he moved his splendid visitor would take a rai)id leave. So he, too, lay still, content to mark in his memory a picture never to be forgotten. Taking a long drink in the calm water the elk turned slowly round, and jtaced gently back, unharmed and undisturbed, into the forest whence he came.
PHEASANTS
TMieasant shooting begins the first of October — that is to say it begins in Oregon for those pure souls who prefer a clear concience to a broken law. and woubl rather canv
GAME AND GAME FISH 173
a giui openly and fear no man, pockets full or empty, than to take the gxin apart and pocket the pieces and slink into town by back lanes and alley ways for fear of the game warden or his deputies — because the first of October had not dawned.
Every one knows that this pheasant of ours is the Ring- necked, or Chinese, or Denny. The last name it ought to bear after the Consul who brought these new settlers from their Chinese home and turned loose, I think it was ten pairs of them, in Western Oregon. We used to wonder if they would not all be killed off the very first season. But law protected them, and also, it is but fair to say, a generally diffused sense that these birds were a gift to all of us, and so it Avould be an ungentlemanly and unsportsmanlike piece of greediness or selfishness to spoil the chances of their spreading by killing off these first few visitors.
And the mildness of our climate and the bold fighting nature of the bird did the rest of it. so they lived and throve and multiplied. The poor native birds put up a losing figiit Avith them from the start. The big dusky grouse that one used to hear ''booming" in the cool mornings and misty evenings in the fence-corners of the grain fields and along the draws and undrained swampy l^its of our great valley, what has become of him?
Twenty years ago one could, and did, go out and get 10 or 15 of these at almost any time in September or early Oct- ober. And then our ruffed grouse or native pheasant. He ''-drums" still. But like the brown humans before the all- conquering white man, these pretty birds have retired farther and deeper into the recesses of our hilly woodland, and there maintain themselves where the imported bird does not care to follow.
Two broods a year and a dozen in a brood, no wonder that they multiplied so fast. What beauties thej' are as one sees the bright dash of the scailet in the head and tlie clear white collar shine in the sunlight as one looks boldly at you over the top of the wheat stubble !
But if you stop the buggy, gun in hand, and climb the fence, thinking him an easy prey, how he fools you. Fly? Not much ; he runs and skulks along the furrow, out of sight in an instant, so that it is a fast dog and one up to liis tricks that can force him to take wing. No man can I'un him down or get him up against his will, and that has been and is the salvation to him. Without a dog, and a good one, it is all but hopeless to hunt him, unless you fancy an all-day tramp
17(i SKTTI.Kirs IlANIir.ooK To oiM'.i.oX
i'or <ine or two chance shots as the birds fly across tlie roail.
In strange contrast with his f]nglish cousin, the Chinese pheasant prefers the open fields. The corn patch near the iarui house has great chaims for him, or the grassy ditcli. <lry of water in our long summer and early fall, with its thick ^"■rowth of weeds and timr»tliy. He fears not man and haunts the vegetable garden. It vised to be said of him that he did more harm to grain and vegetables than he was worth, but he has outlived that slander, as his crop full of weed seeds, bugs and grasshoppeis at most times of the year will prove him the friend of man. IJold and aggressive, he will join the chickens close to the barn yard, and fight with the king of the poultry for supiemacy. With his sharp spurs, high courage, strong legs and active habits he is no mean foe and a battle royal between the wild and tame bird is a sight to see.
The best dog to use is a fast modern pointer — not one of the heavy luml)ering sort, who i)ulters along at a slow lope or trot, and thinks more of the manner of his going than of the pace he can put on. Mr. Pheasant just laughs at him, and you will see iiim pop over the fence before the dog is Avithin halt' a field of him. But with the light going, up stand- ing dog, liver and white, or yellow and white, who rapidly crosses back and forth in front of his master, and having struck the bird's scent presses quickly after him and gives him no more time for his tricks, the turn of the game is the other way. the pheasant has to take wing, wliether he likes it or not, and the gun gets its chance. The shots are neai-ly al- ways long ones at the old birds, they take the best of care of themselves, but often the brood of just grown youngsters gets scared at finding the dog among them, squat down and fly up one at a time to their certain death by a steady shot.
T ought not forget in telling of dogs, that the (iordon set- ter, black and tan, if well bred, is just as fast as the jiointer, and generally less headstrong, more obedient and is easilj', to my taste, tiie king of bird dogs. But the red Trish setter is not far behind llie fiordon and seems to be more easily obtained in this stale.
The uond sportsman, is no tresspasser, but for either love or miMiey he has the the right to start liis dog and liimself and his friends those lovely mornings, with wiiich Oregon in Oct- ober favfirs us. from one of those cozy farm liouses. embedded in its orchard, heavy with red and golden fruit, which abouni i'l almost all the eight counties of this Willamette Valley. Tlie fields lire wide, the wheal stiibl)les oiilv ankle high, the
GAME AND GAME FISH 177
birds are plentiful and a lon.ii. hard tramp is before them. But close to the farmstead is the corn patch, its leaves al- ready rustling- in the soft breeze. And here is the first cbance. Pedro, or Spot, or Laura pulls short up before a hundred yards is behind and the eager look of the eye and the tense drawn muscles of the crouching frame tell the tale. Quietly the guns move up for here the birds will have to fly, not run, in this well fenced lot. At the fartherest end in a moment up flies the father of the brood, too near for him, though, and the shot tells. At the shot three or four youngsters flutter up and away, but pay toll with two of their number and the rest the sportsmen see skimming away in the long flight across the wide wheat fields. A good beginning, and so near the house that the birds can be left in the cool rather than be packed along in a close pocket or dangled from a belt, to be struck and half spoiled whenever a fence is climbed.
Then comes the wheatfield and the dog is soon drawing or scent, and eagerly the sportsmen follow him, but it is a weary while before the birds are seen and often have to be followed for distant flight after distant flight before they ean be made to rise within shot of the gun. But there in the distance is a low copse of rose bushes and thick undergrowth, and there the guns get another chance. And so on and on while the sun is hot on one 's back and the healthy sweat pours off one's face and city legs get the least bit weary until wel- come lunch time comes. For young birds and early in the sea- son the afternoon is often the best time, so there is no rest for the wicked and the shadows lengthen on two weary men and a very tired dog. The blue lines of the far distant moun- tains grow distinct as the sun draws nearer to them, the air is absolutely still and clear, the stubble seems to hang around and catch the tripping feet and home and rest are welcome indeed.
Western Oregon is a Paradise to the trout fisher. I know not a farm in any of the counties from which a trout stream can not be reached within a di-ive. The old fashioned way. with a good long hazel slick and a big wriggling worm has plenty of followers still. It is just a little irritating to an orthodox fly-fisher to follow one of these worm men up a choice bit of rough water, and see him drop his bait here into a still bit below the rock, there into the white foam of a little fall, and to Avatch the bright beauty come shaking and (|uiver- ing up, hanging to the coarse hook, and dragged to hand with- out a moment's show, or pitched roughly out on to the nearby gravel bar. Very rarely can one of these supper hunters be
17^ SKTTI.Kirs 1IAM)IU»(»1< To (iliKiioN
brought to see the error of his ways, and t-hange his hazel stick for a light little bamboo fish pole, and liis worm for the *' silken lly, -wherewith to cheat poor lishes wandering eyes" —but I have known a convert or two, and if at all they are "soundly converted" — ^more dveoted to theg eiith' craft than its older votaries.
We all take a day off now and then and Imw better can yon spend it than by the side of one of our Oregon rivers in June?
]VIake a picnic of it and give the whole household a chance. No fishing time Avill be lost by the ligliting of the camp fire in the shaded grassy nook by the creek, and the morning's catch for the chief item of the feast. The fish will even give you a three hours' spell to dine and rest, while the summer sun is high, niul cvciy dim nook is full of liglit. Not one will rise to yoiii' lly lidwcver neatly thrown till rest- ing time is over and the shadows l)egin to lengthen out once moi'e. Then take to the water again till the yellow sun- light, flickering on the bi'own Avater as the alder leaves shake in the gentle air. dies away in the cool dimness of evening and the big trout come on to their feed. Then is the time for the fly fislier to till his basket till the strap hangs heavj'^ on his shoulder as he. dri})i)ing. climbs up the steep bank and finds himself a mile or two from camp.
The trout fisher, wading here and climbing there from rock to rock as the water churns and boils below him. gets close to the seci'ets of the life of the woods. Silence and ]iatience are the graces he worships. Here he finds a slender legged crane standing ankle deep in the shallow rapids, so intent on his own fishing that he lets one creep close to iiim. There he sees a mink come down to drink and to watch for the little cotton tail rabbit dodging here and there on tiu^ sandy patch by the side of the pool. I'ack and forth and in ami out of the veil of the white water in the little watei- fall llie water ouzel is either at work or at i)lay, no one knows wliicli but it looks like play as he flits for a moment on lo the black rock and shakes the Avater off his s|)read tail.
Of course fly fishing is the (Uily orthodox fashion to catch trout, but I am writing for tlie common man and b(»y. coming to Oregon with no fishing training beyond the stick and the woiTn. 8ui)pose the worm gives out, for the Oregon trout has a bewildering Avay of a quick dash out from under the overhanging rocks, a snatch at the wriggling thing, and a quick rturn to his haunt none the worse for tlie exposed liook. Wliat is the lisher. hov or man. to do? Wati-ii tlial crawlisli
GAME AND GAME FISH 179
just out from under the Hat rdck, his liead and (hose ]on>^' claws of his are tOAvai'ds you, stej) quii-klv behind him and arab him in the shaHow water. Grusli him a little to kill him and then pull him apart — that white piece of his body from under his tail few ti'out can resist a dash at it as it rolls and spins by his lair in the quick water. Or, in the edge of the stream by the rocks you will find those queer little pencil cases covered with tiny stones glued together. In each dwells a caddis larva, also a pretty good bait. And in July and August the grasshoppers are in plentj^ in the tirst bit of sunny meadow beside the creek, and the big trout can hardly resist them,
I used to notice when my boys were little a great rush into the vegetable garden to dig worms before we started, but I never saw the catch fall off much when the store of worms gave out, and the river and its banks had to supply its own bait.
The little lakes which are found here and there in the foot hills are the earliest fishing grounds, I suppose the water warms there first Avith the spring sun. The fly fisher has the best of it. When April brings the sunshine then for want of a boat take to the two log raft you will almost always find lodged against the bank, the relic of last year's fishing, and push out from under the trees. Watch for the ripple on the Avater as the spring breeze plays, and there throw deftly and without a splash your ''March BroAvn, " and "grey hackle" flies. It is at least a month too earlj^ for the "Coachman' and' the "Governor." You will fill your basket. The first dishes of the year have a special good taste of their own.
Writing of holidays and their joys gives me a line or two to tell one recollection. A few years ago our three boys weie camjied on the Yahatz, the tent pitched under tlie fir trees on the verge of the Pacific, where the tumble and grate o;^ the stones in the river mingled with the sleepy roll of the Avaves in the quiet evening, as the big red sun was sink- ing out of sight behind the clear cut line of the horizon. The blue smoke of tlie camp fire rose straight u\) as they called us to supper. Halt an hour before one of the boys ran doAvn to the rocks against Avhich the slow waves were bealing. pail and dip net in hand. In a few minutes back he came his pail half full of silvery smelt. So was provided the first course of our holiday supper. Then a big three pound * rouv, one of a string that had just come, orthodox fly fashion, out of the river behind us. Followed by venison steaks hoi a)id hot from over the fire, cut I'ldui a splendid buck th.'v hn<t
ISO SETTLEirs HANDBOOK TO ORHOOX
killed the day before in the hills whuse ouUine buuiidcl tiie Eastern look out. Stewed salmon beiTies, and thick cream from the nearest fann made the dessert of the open air feast. Forgive the tale of things to eat, just for this once only. But the eye, the ear, the palate, together made up the chuiiu of that evening by the Pacific.
I know not how it was with others, but as memoi-y hies back over the years, not the round of everyday tasks, the long succeeding days of get up, go to work, go to bed life have made the deepest mark on the page of recollections, but the short holiday times of play and rest, with wiiich, in our beautiful Oregon, mountain and river, sea shore and cave, still lake and ocean sunsets are in turn connected.
CHAPTER XV THE COUNTIES OF OREGON
The following table contains the summary of the acreage of tillable and non-tillable land in each county the values of each class of lands as stated in the assessments — and the gross values of all property in each county.
But the value of these figures is more for the purpose of comparison than to suggest actual value as between man and man.
The applications by property owners to the State Land Board for loans in these same counties, sworn to by the ap- plicants, show values from live to ten times greater tliaii the averages taken from the assessments.
Tested also by the average values of farms in the Wil- lamette Valley counties given in a previous chapter, and which values were ascertained by averaging the prices asked for a whole series of farms in those counties, similar differ- ences generally appear.
A strong feeling is generally prevalent in favor of rais- ing assessments to coiTcspond, in accordance with the law, with real values. With only so much money to be raised it can make no ditTerenco to the taxpayer if he pays a smaller per cent on a full valuation or a larger i^er cent on a depressed valuation.
THE COUNTIES OF OREGON
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]S-_> SHTTLER'8 HANDBOOK To oi^'KOOX
I dose llii.s cliaitUT witli a relereucc to I lie |niucipal towns and cities of the state, whether county scats or not. 1 shall mention any special industiies carried on therein, and I prefer to go back to our tirst distribution of the State into districts for this purpose.
Enteriuii Oreyon on the O. K. & X. Railroad from the East we find Iluntinsiton in Baker County, with between 600 and 700 in]ial)itants. the junction jioint between the O. H. & X. and the Oregon Short Line railroads.
Baker City, the County seat oi' that Count\', has a popu- lation of 7300. A busy, growing, well built and progressive place. A center for mining, lumbering, stock, agricultural and orchard interests. Excellent hotels, churches, opera house, line schools.
Enterprise, the county seat of Wallowa County. Well named. With a poi)ulation as yet of about 500 people yet with the municipal undertakings, including electric lighting, water power, bank, schools and churches, which would seem appropriate to a place four times as large.
Elgin, in Union County. With about 1100 population. Also a prosperous town, the center of a great live stock in- dustry.
La Grande, county seat of Union County. About 3800 population and growing. Large beet sugar factory estab- lished here, supplied with its raw material from the fertile land in tiie vicinity. All modern improvements, good schools, opera hou.se, eight churches, electric lights, good water power. Progri'essive and prosperous.
Pendleton, county seat of Umatilla County. Population 6000. Flour mills, machine shop, two woolen mills, 2 banks, hotels, and of course, churches of all denominations. Water powei'. Excellent schools.
Heppner, county seat of Morrow County. Population 1300. Center of an immense stock growing and fanning coun- try. Known everywhere for the terrible cloudburst in the spring of 1903 which most unexpectedly flooded and practical- ly destroyed the town. It has been rai)idly and substantially rebuilt and is prospenms again today.
Condon, county seat of riilliam County. Population about 500. Large stock and agiieullural interests. Although 38 miles from Ailington. the nearest depot on the 0. R. & X. railroad it has telegrai)h and telephone service, 2 weekly newspajjors, a flour mill and three churches.
Shaniko. Started in 1000 as the temporary Southern tenninus of the Colunil)ia Southern railroad Company's line
THE COUNTIES OF OREGON 183
it has over 500 people now. Bank, water works, immense wool warehouses. A typical town of the Pacific Northwest.
The Dalles, county seat of Wasco County. Population 3500. Connected with Portland not only by the 0. R. & N. railroad but also by a line of excellent steamboats on the Columbia River. Eight churches. Two banks. High School and public schools. Electric lights. Planing mills. One daily and two half weekly newspapers. Handles from six to eight million pounds of wool annually.
Hood River. Also in Wasco County. A rapidly growing- town of 1100 people. 66 miles from Portland. Daily com- munication both by railroad and by boat. Shipping point for all the fruit of the Hood River and of the White Salmon districts. A bank, three churches, electric lights and power. A weekly newspaper. Good Schools. The headquarters of the irrigation system of the Hood River Valley.
This closes the reference to the towns in the first, the North Eastern District.
Portland, the metropolis of the State, near the confluence of the Columbia and the Willamette must stand by itself. The city claims 145,000 population, and I think is conceded 130,000 even by its rivals. At any rate the city is expanding on all sides and growing so fast that the boast of today becomes the record of tomorrow.
It is absolutely impossible to compress anj^ kind ofdescrip- tion of the city within the limits of this book. Railroad, river, and ocean shipping here meet and exchange, deliver, and take on their freights. Four transcontinental railroads run their trains daily into and from the costly, convenient, and hand- some Union depot. Besides a whole system of coastwise ship- ping two shipping lines to the Occident run their splendid ships to and from this port. The shipments of flour, lumber, and salmon only would sustain a large city, with their con- tributing and dependent industries. Portland has 120 miles of paved streets, an excellent system of street railroads, being constantly extended as new neighborhoods are built in almost eveiy direction.
Magnificent public buildings of every kind among which I never forget to mention the Public Library — not owing a cent to Mr. Carnegie's munificence, but built, filled, managed, and being constantly developed by citizens of Portland. Ex- cellent newspapers, distinguished at once by enterprise in the collection of news and the ability and high standard of their leader writers and contributors. The Oregonian, as seen today is a ci'edit to any city in the world, how much more to this
184 SKTTLER'S HANDBOOK To OKFriON'
young city ol' the Western coast. The city has 15 banks, sustaining- a clearing house through wliich passed $175,854,- 536.15 in 1903, being an increase of $21,111,425.!»7 over the previous year.
I may add here the following suggestive figures testifying to the linancial condition of the State. The bank deposits amounted for 1903 to the sum of $55,015,514,512 showini; an icrease over 1902 of $ti,732,981.31, or 13.77 per cent.
Taking next a hasty view of tlie towns of the Willamette Valley.
Oregon City stands on the East bank of the Willamette River, 14 miles South of Portland. It is connected with the metropolis by the main line of the Southern Pacific railroad and also by the electric road with frequent service and cheap fares. The falls of the Willamette Kiver here produce it is estimated, as much water power as the whole Lowell district in Massachusetts. About 15.000 horse power is already de- veloped. This operates at Oregon City a large wotden mill, one flour mill, two paper mills, soap factory, a local electric light plant besides the power transmitted to Portland for distribution there by the Portland General Electric Company. Oregon City has eight churches, 5 schools, 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, water works, stone quarries, and many minor enter- prises. The population is stated to exceed 5000. The county seat of Clackamas County, and has much fruit land, timber land, and fanning land tributary to it.
On the West side of the Willamette River and on the West side division of the Southern Pacific R. R., 20 miles from Portland stands the thriving town of Hillsboro. About 1600 people. They have 2 flouring mills, bank, foundry, 2 weekly papers, a good school, and six churches. This is the count}' seat of Washington County. The center of a very rich dairy and fruit country. One of the two important condensed milk factories is located hei'e, referred to in previous chapters.
Forest Grove, on the same railroad is 6 miles from Hills- boro, 26 miles from Portland. Pacific University, with its new buildings, fine campus, library of over 12,000 volumes, and invested funds of $250,000. Excellent coi-ps of professoi-s and instructors, and earnest students of the higher learning gives this the air of a college town. The population is about 1500. This town has flour mill, condensed milk factory, and bank. Fine churches, and good public school with 275 pupils.
Salem, on the East bank of the Willamette River, 52 miles South of Portland. Tiie State Capital, and the county seat of Marion County. Pojinlation over 12,000. State Tnstitn-
THE COUNTIES OF OREGON 185
tions ai-e all centered here. 2 daih^ papers, 5 weekly and 1 semi-weekly. The Willamette University, one of the oldest in Oregon is placed here. With the university and excellent public shools there are ample opportunities for education. Seventeen churches, of all denominations. 2 banks, large tiour mills, foundry and various manufactuiing establish- ments. Excellent water power. Electric car line. Center of an agricultural country of the very best.
McMinnville, county seat of Yamhill County. On the West side division of the Southern Pacific R. R. Population 2200. Besides good public schools the Baptist college is lo- cated here with an average of 200 pupils. Two national banks, three weekly newspapers. Flour mill. The prosper- ous center of a line farming district. Six churches.
Albany, county seat of Linn County. On East side of Willamette River, 80 miles South of Portland on main line of Southern Pacific. 5000 population. Prosperous and grow- ing. Has 2 flouring mills, ice factory, tannery, 2 chair factor- ies, woolen mill, foundry, sash and door factory. Water power and ditch, 14 miles long, bring water from the South Santiam River to Albany and furnish 1400 horse power. Three fine public school buildings and 12 churches. Albany College is under the care of the Presbyterians and under Pres- ident W. H. Lee has taken another lease of life and is grow- ing and developing satisfactorily'.
Corvallis, the County seat of Benton County. Population 2500. On the Willamette, West bank, 96 miles South of Portland. Present terminus of the West Side branch of the S. P. R. R. Eminently a college town from the influence of the State Agricultural College. On the buildings, farm and equipment the State of Oregon has expended upwards of $250,000. The college has over 500 students from all coun- ties in Oregon with a few from more distant homes. The town is the center of a great agi'icultural district. Has 2 large flour mills, other factories, electric lighting, 2 papers, 9 churches, 2 banks.
Junction City. Where the main line of the S. P. R. R. crosses from the East to the West side of the Willamette River. About 800 people. Good school, water works, bank. 3 grain elevators, flouring mill. A fine farming country con- tributarj^ to it. Stage lines connecting with neighboring small towns.
Eugene. County seat of Lane County. One of the most growing and prosperous cities in Oregon. Population 5500 when last counted, 123 miles South of Portland. Practically
186 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OKEOOX
at the head of tlic Willamette Valley. Various manufaeturiu2: iudustries, excelsior mill, iruit canneries, foundries, and tlie great saw mills owned and operated by the Booth-Kelly Com- pany of which last year's output exceeded 77 million feet of lumber. The State University is here, with its 20 acres of campus. 5 large brick and stone buildings, gymnasium, science hall, and others. The city has 3 large modern school build- ings with a tine High School just completed and opened, 3 large banks, electric and water works, and the usual number of churches of all denominations.
The Coast counties require that we return to Portland and thence start North West to Astoria.
Astoria, the County seat of Clatsop County and tiu' lirst .Vmerican settlement on the Pacific Coast. Now has a popu- lation of about 8500 persons. The chief seat of the salmon industry both for canneries and for cold storage plants. U. S. custom house and bonded warehouse. Center of a large shipping trade. Various important manufacturing estab- lishments, and among them the Astoria Iron Works, and the American Can Company's factory. 4 saw mills, large water Avorks, 11 churches and first rate public schools employing 29 teachers.
Following the Coast line South, Tillamook is the next place of any importance. Population 1100. Connected with the outside world by steamers plying to Astoria and Portland, and by the stage line for 33 miles to North Yamhill, a station on the S. P. R. West side rairoad, 40 miles Southwest of Port;land. $300,000 worth of butter and cheese annually shipped out. Surrounded by dairy lands of great value. The town is substantially grown up, has 2 banks, 4 creameries, a large sawmill, four churches, three weekly papers.
Toledo. On Yaquina Bay is the county seat of Lincoln County. Population about 500. On the Corvallis & Eastern railroad, and is 153 miles from Portland. Has a bank, 2 sawmills, a creamery, a new court house, good public school. Quite a settlement of Scandinavian new comers in the neigh- borhood of this toAvn.
Marshfield. On Coos Bay. A prosperous seaport of 2500 ])o])ulation. Connected by 24 miles of railroad and 52 miles of stage road with Roseburg on the S. P. R. The town is full of business enteri)rise. It has 3 sawmills, tannery, box factorj', salmon cannery, 2 creameries, 2 ship yards, bank, brewery. 3 newspapers, electric jilant. Larue coal mines 3 miles distant. Long eslablLshed line of steamers connecting Coos Bav with San Francis^co and other steamers make it a
s
o
THE COUNTIES OF OREGON 187
port of call. It lias a good public school and six churi'lies. The hard woods in this locality have great value and are in demand.
The only town of importance in South Eastern Oregon is Lake View^ near the head of Goose Lake, with a population of 1100. The center of a great stock district. It has 3 saw mills, a bank, several excellent stores, two newspapers and two churches.
With a short account of the towns in South Western Ore- gon we will close this hasty review.
Leaving Eugene on the main line of the S. P. R. the first town of importance is Roseburg, tlie county seat of Douglas County. Population 5000. Situated on the Umpcjua River, 198 miles South of Portland. The U. S. land office is here for the Roseburg district. The town has 2 flouring mills, 2 sash' and door factories, and a brewery, water works, water power, electric plant. Roseburg is the center of a country rich in fruit, hops, grain, wool, and lumber. The public schools em- ploy 14 teachers and have 900 pupils. Library, 2 banks, and 1 daily, and 2 bi-weekly papers. There are eight churches.
Grants Pass, the county seat of Josephine County is very prosperous. Present population exceeds 3000. Its location in the central part of the great Rogue River Valley insures its trade. It is the distributing point for several mining dis- tricts. It does a great business in fruit, lumber, brick, etc. Has 3 weekly newspapers, division shops of the S. P. R., 2 lumber yards, 2 planing mills, 4 saw mills, and many minor industries. Fine electric light and power, the company con- trolling both water and electric supply. Two large brick school houses, 3 large brick hotels, an opera house and seven churches.
Medford in Jackson County on the S. P. R., 328 miles South of Portland, also in the Rogue River Valley has 2500 population. Has 2 banks, large roller flour mills, distillery, brewery and 2 planing mills. Headquarters of the Iowa Lum- ber Co. Center of a great fruit region in which prices of land are rapidly rising. Good school, opera house, electric plant, four newspapers and eight churches.
Ashland, the most Southern City in Oregon, most beauti- fully placed on the edge of the foot hills of the Siskyou Mountains, overlooking the wide expanse of the Rogaie River VaUey, has a population of 3500. Has fine water power and water works. Valuable mines are developed in the immediate neighborhood of the city. This city stands nearly in the cen- ter of the Peacli belt of Southern Oregon, and does a large
188 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OREGOX
trade in fruit of the finest quality. This city is attracting: by climate and location a residential population of many pretty homes are seen. The Southern Oregon State Normal School is here. The public schools have three buildings. There are 2 banks, 3 planing mills, flour and grist mills. 2 large saw mills, and othe industries, three newspapers and nine churches.
Lakeview. In Lake County. Population 1100. Prosper- ous and growing. A bank, 3 sawmills, 2 churches. 2 news- papers and a large business in stock, wool, and some grain.
CHAPTER VI CONCLUSION
The intended space having been filled it becomes necessary to draw the book to a conclusion.
Reading over what has gone before it seems that the descriptive matter has been written and the questions an- ' swered that were proposed. The hard facts are hei-e, so far as I know, but the life that underlies them is not here, and cannot be set down on paper.
The whole State resembles one of its own farms about Avhich I have written. Partially developed. Some of the bounties provided on this Pacific Coast for the service of man availed of, but the eye must be ever on the future to realize its possibilities.
As one looks out on the wide sti'etch of the farm that is to be, the first impression is that of natural beauty. So with the state. No unifoi-m dead level of bare, waterless, treeless, uninteresting fertility. But some mountains and high hills, some rolling outlines and gently swelling slopes, some wide stretches of smooth, hill-bounded valleys. Green trees, green grass, green crops, orchard trees sheeted in bloom, now as I write, falling in white showers carpeting the gmuiul, the death of the wealth of flowers foretelling the abundance of the fruit. During the past eight weeks, while soaked in gentle rain, we have been longing for the spring sun, since the spring work in field, orchard, aiid garden has been all but untouched. And that to us in Oregon has boon the worst of it. No snow storms and blizzards, no starving cattle and mis- erable sheep, even the swollen mountain streams have con- fined their misdemeanors to washing out a few railroa bridges
CONCLUSION 189
and bringing' down slides to obstruct for a few days the pas- sage of the trains. Meanwhile the soil has been storing up its reserve of water against the dry days to come. Harvest of grain and hay in its wonted abundance has been assured. We can bank on both. Years' long experience prevents fear of the unwelcome rain storm to drench and mildew the hay in late June and early July and the grain harvest in July and August. And even if no rain should fall on the seed grain now being put in the harvest will come from it in due time.
Nature is kindly to us. Nothing there is, on her side, to forbid the invitation to join us which may be gathered from the foregoing pages.
Turn again to the living parable of the farm. Has its limit of productivenss been reached"? Must the new comer content himself with taking up the burdens of today and rely on the pressure of the Westw^ards flow of people to main- tain the values, now apparent, of his prairie farm?
Far from it. Even if the wild lands, now brush and timber covered, on his Oregon farm be all cleai'ed and plowed, yet in the application to the land of the.new-er methods already tested and applied to other like lands, increase of yield, im- proved products, and higher prices from widened markets shall surely give the profits to more than justify his purchase. Not from once again selling the farm he has made his own, and on which he has set up his household gods, need he look to add to his fortune, but he may see season by season the fruits of his labor grow and multiply. We have but one life here, and if in Oregon one finds Avhat tends to make a happy life what call is there to sell out and try elsewhere ?
As one takes the long journey to the West the weary struggle against barrenness, drought, tempest, bareness, cold, so often tells its tale. The knowledge that when the Pacific slope is reached these evils, at least, need not l)e feared — that industi-y is sure of its due fruit, that seasons smile, that seed time and harvest, summer and winter are friends in the ser- vice of man, that yet there is room and to spare for thous- ands on thousands of contented homes — this knowledge may well be spread and the responsibility of the invitation rests lightly on the writer who has seen and tester that whreeof he writes.
On all sides one hears, "More people is what Oregon needs." Yes, but what people?
In our mountain ranges are stored in vein and ancient river bed the minerals that will make thousands rich. Our coal fields are yet unprospected, their stores unopened. The
190 SETTLER'S HANDBOOK TO OKECiOX
railroads are but few. our water pDWi-rs rumiiiiir '>y lu waste. The raw materials I'mni our laims and lauyes are shipped too often away from our Ijorders to be worked up in distant fac- tories. The industries of our cities and towns are younu:, aye infant. ' ^
We need the master workman and his men.
Our commerce is but young;. W'a are placed on the edge of the Pacific, with the millions of China and Japan for customers — with harbors for all ships, on a world's route from East to Wjest. With work, truly, to be done, and money to be spent in deepenini;- channels and makiuii suli more easy the watei ways — work too costly for our few people, and too plainly for the Nation's jroo dto ask for and n<it receive the Nation's hid for its full develo])mo".
And yet with all this there is nothing to limit for many Years to eiime the deariuLr of our lands, the mult'plyiui: of our flocks and herds, the increase of our crojjs, the planting of our orcliards, the l)uildin.n' up of our fanners' homes. Twenty-three years back. I i»ublislied too soon, mj' two years' observations of Oregon and her possibilities. Soilo oj/inions and forecasts I might wish had never seen the light. Dut as I admired then the State, new to my ej'e^. as I then be- lieved in her future and augured for her growth in people, in appreciation of all that makes life worth living, in edu- cation and refinement, in State patriotism — all Jiis I would fain repeat. My faith in Oregon has grown with the passing years. Ma^' she yet flourish !
FINIS
APPENDIX A.
Condensed statement of average temperature and of extremes, also of average precipitation at the places named below, calcu- lated for 1900-1-2.
|
PLATE.\U DISTRICT E.\STERN OREGON. |
• Aver. Temp. Deg. |
Extreme Heat. Deg. |
Ext. Cold. Deg. |
Aver. Preci p. Inches. |
Eleva- tion. Feet. |
|
Baker Citv Baker County |
46.56 42 73 50 45 |
94-75 92 100 66 |
2.66 -11 66 -1. |
12 43 14 52 8.10 |
3470 |
|
Jdseph, Wallowa County |
4400 3000 |
||||
|
COLUMBIA RIVER VALLBY. |
|||||
|
Weston Umatilla County |
48 75 54 05 . 53 16 |
100.66 106 3 101.50 |
-0 25 I. 6. |
25 51 16 43 15.62 |
1800 |
|
Pendleton, Umatilla County |
1074 |
||||
|
The Dalles, Wasco County |
112 |
||||
|
PORTLAND AND THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. |
|||||
|
Portland, Multnomah Connty Corvallis. Benton County |
53 50 52.13 52 05 |
95-3 96 50 |
i.18 3 18.3 19 |
.9 40 44 2 45.5 |
54 319 |
|
Eugene, Lane County |
435 |
||||
|
COAST DISTRICT. |
|||||
|
Astoria, ClatsopCountv.. |
51-2 51 23 52.7 |
84. 84 6 S« 6 |
24 23- 263 |
83 10 V V 84.85 |
69 |
|
Newport, Lincoln County |
|||||
|
Gardner, Dousflas County |
72 |
||||
|
SOUTHERN OREGON. |
|||||
|
Roseburg', Douglas County |
53 33 S3- 52 2 |
98.33 105. 103. |
22. 17 66 14.66 |
34 38 32 97 20 63 |
964 1940 |
|
Grants Pass Josephine County Ashland, fackson County |
|||||
OOOOOChXwXK>CmDOCm>OCkX>OCk>Ch>0.<>0<>00<><)^
The Shortest Line And Fastest Time
FROM THE EAST
TO
Oregon and Washington
IS VIA THE
UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD
Two through trains daily; accommodation" for all classes of passengers; Tourist vSleeping Cars a specialty. Full particulars by asking or writing:
Atlanta, Ca.— J. F. Van
Kcnnsalaer, 13 I'each-
tree Street. Boston. Mass. — R. Ten-
broeck, 176 Wasliiiigtoii
Street. Chicago, 111.— W. G. Nei-
inver, 193 South Clark
Street. Cincinnati, Ohio— W. H.
Connor. 53 Kast Vourth
Street.
Detroit. Mich. — F. H. Choate, 126 Woodward .\ venue.
Kansas City, Mo.— H. C. Kaill, 901 Walnut Street
Philadelphia, Pa, - ■ J. T. Hendricks, 830 Chestnut Street.
St. Louis, Mo — J. H. I.o throp. 903 Olive Street.
OK
E. L LOMAX, Q. P. & T. A.
Union Pacific Railroad
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