a se
ae Fe ee ee ee

HTT?
W299
bh fbi

“a
§

‘

i

}
Hay
Aid|
se)

Ah
i!
erin)

Hie
oUt AF

Ayan
"

es = o-
Po Rome ote = ee

oie) ay
prea
“uP

ale?

yieieg

4H Es
ii)

?

Onis

aiM
baal

nieyh

“yr

-
=
e

spells als
lajeyja 4!
‘v4
Svinte
siylepaitearal

hele
(I
(isaaee
vig snaeaiaeyleal

eheteiele

ipl
srbabriutdatele
Hiemeleieebta
oeyeireega nals
selalelaiede HH

pret
spleens

Shel aa
STRILI EEL
Hatley

f»
*
neatinaat

atals
pereray

We?

CONTE Ne

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIE

4

a Gee
Ava ea

¥) as
RY
SWF wifeah,

ie

mt
a Vi ca ral
& ry
Ati

PAE SMALL
COUN TRY. PLAGE

*AWO fT

AMULNNOD TOAILAVaG Y—T SIT

ASE SESE SZSZSZ9Z S797 SES 92 SF OF OF 97 SF OF SFE

Z 2
Z THE SMALL 5
5 COUNTRY PLACE [|
4

Bx BY

Sd

SAMUEL T. MAYNARD

PROFESSOR OF BOTANY AND HORTICULTURE AT THE MASSACHUSETTS
AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE; BOTANIST AND POMOLOGIST TO THE
MASSACHUSETTS STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE, ETC.;
AUTHOR OF ‘“‘LANDSCAPE GARDENING AS AP-

PLIED TO HOME DECORATION,” ‘‘SuC-

CESSFUL FRUIT CULTURE,” ETC.

ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS

Sd

Poa DE Pr ba rere N DON

Pepe PPP PCO TT ‘eon AN ¥
1908

MOM MORRO ROMO KO MORO

DADA DD DADA DDD D AAA
IW a0 uO uO WAN a A 20 20 aca OAL AO mLOOROIOROION

2

am EF IIH IIS

LIBRARY of CONGRESS!
Two Goples wecelyos |

MAY 16 1908

Dopyrigni ae

OLASS A us ok
\ 2-6 en
QOFY Bei

ay

CopyRIGHT, 1908
By J. B. Lipprncorr Company

Published May, 1908

Printed by J. B. Lippincott Company
The Washington Square Press, Philadelphia, U.S. A.

REMODELLING AND IMPROVING OLD BUILDINGS

BuiItpDING NEw Houses

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

Sere Uae BON ER OMEE Se oon ee ee Pr) ae ee fe

Advantages of Livingin the Country; Farming and Gar-
dening for Pleasure or as a Business; The Home Owner
and Home Seeker; Where Shall We Look for New
Homes? Important Points to Consider: 1. Healthful
and Pleasant Surroundings; 2. Good Schools and
Churches; 3. Congenial Social and Political Conditions;
4. Suitable Soil and Exposure : 5. Suitable Buildings;
6. What are the Markets? 7. Good Roads; 8. Is there
Woodland on the Place? g. The Capital Required.
Summary.

CHAPTER? TI

First Make Buildings Healthful; Examine Sills; Roofs
and Gutters; Shingles; Asphalt Roofing; Iron and
Steel Roofing; Inside Conveniences; The Purity of the
Water Supply; Sanitation; Improvement of Build-
ings; The Tool House; Farming Tools; Poultry
Houses; Barn, Stable and Carriage House, etc.; Shin-
gling Old Buildings; Painting Old Buildings; Time to
Paint; Kinds of Paint; Brushes and Painting.

CHAPTER III

5) On SiGe 0, :O (oN dyna) ele mewe: alee) S..0 fe)ie oe! mom e leya see

PaRrnl:

Building Associations; A Definite Plan; Contract and
Day Labor; The Most Important Points: Location;
An Abundance of Windows; The Water Supply;
Houses of Wood; The Frame; Cover Boards; Shin-
gles; Finish; Floor Boards; Finishing Floors.

31

52

6

ContTENTS

Parr Ef,

Brick, Stone and Cement Houses: Brick Houses;
Houses of Stone; Cement Buildings; Solid Walls;
The Block System; The Cement and Sand; Mixing
Cement and Sand; Cement for Outbuildings; Cement
for Floors and Walks; Heating Country Houses: Hot-
Water Heat, Hot-Air Heat, Steam Heat.

CHAPTER IV

THE: DECORATION OF HoME/GROUNDS.|...... «2.5002 One

Preserve all Naturally Beautiful Features; Time for
Pruning Trees; Some of the Best Street and Avenue
Trees; Home Decoration; Grading About the Build-
ing; Roads and Walks; Underdraining Road-bed;
Concrete Drives and Walks; Planting Trees and
Shrubs; Where to Obtain Ornamentals; Time for
Planting; Planting Evergreens; Arrangement of Trees
and Shrubs:: Fruit Trees as Ornamentals: list of
Trees; Ornamental Shrubs; Grouping Shrubs; Pruning
Shrubs; List of Shrubs; Climbing Shrubs; Removing
Walls and Fences.

CEUAP® EAR: Vi

Tae LAWN AND: FLOWERMGARDENIC 4. oh 24k cee

The Lawn; Lawn Grasses; Time for Sowing Seed;
Seeding Lawns; Weeds in Lawn; Water a Necessity;
Improving Old Lawns; Lawn Mowers and Their Care;
The Flower Garden; Cultivation of Wild Flowers;
Lawn Perennials; Lawn Annuals and Bedding Plants;
Biennials; Dutch Bulbs; Winter Protection for Hardy
Plants; Window and Veranda Plants.

CHAPTER VI

THe Fawity GARDEN. 2072.5. 04 eee eee

Soil and Exposure; Mixed Planting; Plans of Gardens;
Fruit Trees in Turf; Cultivation of the Family Garden;
Summer Fertilization; Cold Frames and Hot-Beds;
Starting Seeds; Poultry and the Family Garden.

(igs

98

ELY

ContTENTS 7

CHAPTER VII

Reena ie NEMO Nts os Se ny ues hos = w 0 Boers Sha eh aos wae a 130
Equipment Required; Fruit Growing as a Business;
Best Soil for the Apple; Selection and Arrangement of
Trees; Cultivation; A Cover Crop; Cost of an Apple
Orchard; Apple Trees in Turf; Renovating Old Trees;
Pruning Fruit Trees; Varieties; Harvesting the Apple
Crop; Insect Pests; Dwarf Apples.

CHAPTER: VIII

THE Pears, PEACHES, QUINCES, PLUMs, APRICOTS AND
INE GRIN Gat cots a! igen ice Scot ne fades Wik a ote eae euene 156

The Pear: Kinds of Trees; Renovating Old Trees;
Varieties; Harvesting the Fruit; Insects Injurious to
the Pear; Fungous Pests. The Peach: Pruning for
Planting; Marketing Peaches; Varieties of the Peach;
Insects Injurious to the Peach; Fungous Pests. The
Quince: Selection of Quince Trees; Marketing
Quinces; Insects and Diseases. The Plum: Fungous
Diseases of the Plum; Varieties; Marketing Plums.
The Apricot: Varieties; Cultivation. The Nectarine:
Cultivation;. Varieties. The Cherry: Cultivation;
Varieties; Marketing; Insect and Fungous Pests.

CHAPTER IX

pene WGA rae cca tAceaiees wt vo aes has va SS Shae aN Ae » apes eee ane 182
Propagation; Pruning; Cultivation and Fertilization;
Varieties; Marketing; Girdling; Insect and Fungous
Pests.

CHAPTER X

BREE SS UME Rr eg Soke 2S a x Se created ala pegatiua tea 198
Propagation of the Raspberry and the Blackberry; Cul-
tivation; Insects and Diseases; Varieties. The Cur-
rant: Propagation and Cultivation; Varieties; Insect
and Fungous Pests. The Gooseberry: Cultivation;
Varieties. The Strawberry: Methods of Planting;
Winter Protection; Harvesting the Fruit; Varieties;
Insect and Fungous Pests.

8 ContTENTS

CHAPTER XI

Minmnr GARDENING ra.1c Ani el ee On whee ces Se ee 216
General Observations and Directions; Fitting the
Land; Planting; Asparagus; Beans: Varieties:
Beets: Varieties; Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Brussels
Sprouts, etc.: Cultivation; Varieties; Carrots: Cul-
tivation; Varieties; Celery: Cultivation; Varieties;
Sweet Corn: Cultivation; Varieties; Lettuce: Culti-
vation; Varieties; Melons: Cultivation; Varieties;
Onions: Cultivation; Varieties; Peas: Cultivation;
Varieties; Potatoes: Cultivation; Varieties; Rhu-
barb; Squashes: Cultivation; Varieties; Tomatoes:
Cultivation; Varieties; Turnips: Cultivation; Varieties.

CHA PTR, Sckt

POUR ABT IN Grit eon Nan. Ute Coen Caen ne ete) Rhee ee ee ee 241
General Observations and Directions; Location; Poul-
try Houses; Care of the Fowls; Raising Chickens;
Feed; Production of Eggs; Roosts; Nests; Breeds of
Poultry; Pigeons.

CHAPTER Xl

DAIRVING, Tap BAMILY EIORSE,<AND- BEES)! 0UJi.ina0 Sea eee 257
General Observations; Milking; Keeping the Milk;
Breeding; Dairying; The Milk Supply; Keeping up the
Standard; Purity; Raising Calves; Selecting the
Family Cow; The Family Horse; The Stable; Water-
ing; Carriages and Harnesses; Bees: The Apiary;
The Hives; Surplus Honey; Swarming.

CHAPTER XIV

Mon THEY CALENDARS «1.5 3 5¢cliek te ae earns) Ont ee ene 270
Directions for each Month’s Work: The Land; Build-
ings; Stock; Roads and Walks; The Lawn; Trees and
Shrubs; The Flower Garden; Greenhouses and Sash;
The Vegetable Garden; The Vineyard; Small Fruits;
Fertilizers; Seeds; Poultry; Bees; etc:

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

22

23
24

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Beautiful Country Home. .........Frontispiece

A Cottage Home Valued at $1200 .......

& Cottage Home Valued. at: $800.2 2.2 552... 280:

A. Cottage House Before Remodelling. ...........

A Cottage House After Remodelling ..

A Trap to Prevent Escape of Sewer Gas Bron
Cesspools, ebc: "22,2".

A Handy Tool-Room or Work Geen :

The Tool-Room. Farm Tools Hung on Phe Walls
of the Barn Basement . ‘

A Modern Poultry House on Seen Shed.

A Modern System of Ventilating Stables, Pauleey
Houses, etc.. ii

A Small heated Butidiae Coweneie Ww ith ‘eas
Grapevine above, Nasturtiums below ......

PeModernicliinwled-Todse we. ii)... soneeeee te

A Brick House in the Country. .

The Construction of a Solid “Wall ont mie Tense
Rieimtorced: by Steel Rods... .v....o24cs5.08

A Stone Cottage in the Country .. ar

Section of a Concrete Fire-Proof Hou Ww ies ond
Walls, Reinforced with Steel Rods. . iz

A Cement Concrete House made of Hollow Blocks

A Machine for Making Hollow Concrete Blocks ..

A Tall Young Tree Showing Where to Cut to
Make it Branch Low . ;

A Norway Spruce Tree With ‘headioe ‘Shoot Cut
off to Force Growth into the Lower Branches

The Result of Cutting off the Leading Shoot ....

Forked Branch of Tree Broken Down by Ice,
Repaired and Supported by Iron Rod ....

A Perfect Purple-Leaf Beech Tree, the Result of a
Good Soil, a Northern Roe and neti
of Room. : beh evs ers

The Location af ives ad Waites.

Another Plan of Drives and Walks..

PAGE

21
27
33
33

37
40

41
43

10

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.

25
20

List oF ILLUSTRATIONS

How to Lay Out Drives and Walks. . ;

Section of Road With Tile upon the Utwer Gide
Only.. ie

Section of Read. With Tosatti Tile. on Bort idee

Trees and Shrubs Appropriately Arranged on ete
Lawn and in Front of the Dwelling ..

Low Shrubs Arranged in Front of the Tall nee

A Beautiful Shingled Summer House . oe

A Rose-Covered Porch . ie eee ee

Just Coming From the iale aoe Cian.

Native Shrubs and Ferns Arranged With ‘Bulle
ing for Background . er

How Peony and Other ences ‘Seren
Roots are Divided for Transplanting .

The Flower Garden; Bulbs in Bloom in Spring ..

Plan of Garden and Grounds. .

Plan of Garden of Fruit, Rlowers fn Veoatatice

Plan of Garden of Fruit and Vegetables. .

Mixed Garden and Farm Crops. .

The Author’s ‘‘Weed-Killer.”’ Note the Wheel Fite.
Triangular Hoe, Rakes of two Widths, etc. .

The Triangular Hoe; How Made .......

Young Apple Trees: (a) No. 1, Ewo Py caee Old
Tree Unpruned; (6b), the Same After Pruning

A Tall Apple Tree Before Pruning.. sean

A Tall Apple Tree Atter Pruning...

A Tall Apple Tree at the End ee abe “First
Season After Pruning . ea

Grafting: How the Stock is Cut al Semen

Grafting: How the Scions are Cut . eee

Grafting; The “Stock Atter the West fas. Been
Put; On ; sree

An Apple Tree Gee Wear oe Gane.

An Apple Tree Three Years After Sac.

An Old Orchard Pruned From Below tig: elntesallee

An Old Orchard Before Pruning..

An Old Orchard After Pruning .

An Old Orchard the Autumn ater Beene

A Perfectly Shaped Apple Tree, Peoteces by
Cutting in the Tops..

A Convenient and inc: Tedder fae Working on
Low Trees . er Cty hottie Vel

PAGE
So

SI
Sr

QI
93
95
96
103

107

TIO
III
119
120
L20
122

124

[25

137
142

143

144
145
145

146
147
147
148
148
149
149

150

155

Fig.
- 59
«66

. OF

Fig.

Fig.
276

Fig.

Syd,

58

a102
253
. 64
- 08

66

OF
. 68

69

(ea

72

1598
ere
ai

a 70

oy OF,
yk:

- 79
. 80
or

OZ
Os

List or ILLUSTRATIONS

A Three-Year-Old Peach Orchard in Summer
Growth Aut

A Peach Tree ieegeed) os Baus Vee

A Four-Year-Old Peach Tree Before om

A Four-Year-Old Peach Tree After Pruning .

Pear and Quince Trees and Blackberries in the
Poultry Yard. :

Plum Trees over Thirty ear Old . ee

Currant Bushes under Plum and Rarer flicoes Se

A Small Vineyard... aia Ste betes

Stable Onngeonege iy a "Grapevine ‘Fifty
Years: Old”: re tats aeerecreate

Single Cig gtne Boined a Fraitine Gane Tied
to the Top Wire . ;

A Single Vine with Fruit on an: Wie. ee
Grapevine in the Garden Unpruned ae Five
Years. wee

Grapevine in ie Gander one Pawo.

Grapevine in the Garden in seeaget ie ei full
Foliage and Fruit. . Peet S iets ok ee

Sprayed and There Pomies First and Third
Vines Sprayed; Second and Fourth Un-
SOL) / 2c Das Sees nen RnR, EN Mie gee anaes DULY

Trellis with Cross Supports for oe are and
Blackberry Canes . LS ae ae eel aie

Trellis Without Cross anos.

Strawberry Plants in Hills ..

Strawberry Field Planted in the Bante Hedge.
Row System .. dice, strays Scene ne eae a re

The Strawberry Bae, Mr al 8. Aone ney tien

The Hot-Bed; Note Sash, Mats and Shutters....

A Small Greenhouse ...... sae

Late Cabbages Following ee es, Oislaet
berry Field in the Distance .

A Movable Summer Coleny eines far Shout
Fifteen Hens, ora ras Number of Chick-
ens. Open View . 3 Ho aS ten ae ee

Same as Fig. 80. Glosed ee

Poultry in the Raspberry Patch .

A Modern Poultry House With Seratching Shed
BCU WECIT MamrOM GING: etch Ce ett rak ct ee ret

iE

PAGE

162
163
164
164

169
173

179
183

IgI

195

200
200
207

208
OTE
218
218

224
242
242
243

245

12

Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

fo)

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

List or ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

84 A Model Incubator; One of the Necessities for
Profitable Poultry Growing . 248

85 A Model Brooder. Where the Chiesa are cies,
After Being Taken From the Incubator.. 249

86 Poultry in the Asparagus eect eR 251
7), A SPISe Ot MAGEE Ae cs ce pee oid Mera: Ae tte toners ne er ee
88 ee OT Le el 258
89 The Family Horse . On crate lb loiy Tal esele ae teehee te eee em
go A Modern Apiary.. 5 alee pile
gt January. After School Se ietere hore: 5 pees 27%
92. Pronine Prom the Top Dowa ..\..'.. 273
93 February. Making Quick Work of the ‘arcade Pile 276
94 March. Sugaring Scene in Vermont....... 284
95 May. The Beginning of the Sere hens, ‘Copal 290
96 July. Currants and Gooseberries ake This
Month.. me 2. oe a
97 September. Fianvestiae one cor Gane .. Sm
98 October, Sorting and Packing Apples ........ 306

99 November. Raising Turkeys Almost a Lost ee 312
reo. December. “A-Christmas Tree... 3.22.02 22% aentse ee

THE SMALL CouNTRY PLACE

CHAPTER 1

THe Susurspan Home; ADVANTAGES OF
Livine In THE CounTRY

P AHE ideal place to live is in the country, even
though one’s business is in the city. In the
country one is more independent, and free

from much of the formalism and many of the whims
of modern society; and may have elbow room, so to
speak, with pure fresh air on every side, and quiet
from the constant interruptions of the crowds encoun-
tered in a busy and bu&tling city. Too many of our
people are crowded into the limited space of the cities
and never see the broad and beautiful fields and wooded
hills, or breathe the pure air that is laden with the
rich perfume of the fields and woods. They know
nothing of birds and flowers, the wonders of plant
and animal life, or the broadening effect of daily
contact with Nature in her various moods.

With the modern methods of travel one may live in
the country and work or attend to an established busi-
ness, often requiring but a few hours each day, and have
the remaining time to devote to the garden, growing
fruits or vegetables, caring for poultry, bees, etc. He
can thus have an abundance of fresh fruit and vege-
tables, milk, poultry, eggs, etc., for his own table, the
supply of neighbors, or the local market. A small gar-
den skilfully cared for may be made to produce a won-

| =

14 Tue Smatt Country Pace

derful amount of fresh fruit and vegetables in such a
condition as cannot be found in the local markets; and
larger areas may be profitably planted if one has a little
capital and becomes skilled in growing garden crops.
One may keep the family cow and horse, too, as family
pets, and the smaller pets (poultry, dog or cat), with
both pleasure and profit.

There is no place like the country in which to bring
up children. Everywhere about them are Nature’s
realities, not the narrow creations of man. They learn
to take responsibilities, become self reliant by the care
of the cow, the horse, and the chickens, and by working
in the garden; and, best of all, they can be with father
and mother, sharing with them the cares of the house-
hold, the sports of rural life, and the pleasures of home.
They can have a workshop where they may gain skill in
using hand and eye. In the summer they can have the
sports of swimming and boating, and in winter coast-
ing, skating, and snow-shoeing in the broad free expanse
of hill and dale.

Where the area of land is sufficient, help may be em-
ployed in the garden. The man of all work, who must
often be kept about the suburban home, may spend
spare hours profitably in caring for the garden crops.
Many a small village lot has been made to yield a con-
siderable income from crops of lettuce, cucumbers, roses,
carnations, violets, etc., grown under glass; and larger
areas of only a few acres have produced income enough,
from outdoor vegetables and fruits, to pay the necessary
help and yield a good living to the owner.

The small farmer with a few acres feels the influence
of modern methods, and farm life is shorn of many of
the trials and social deprivations of a half century ago.
Then the farmer worked alone, cultivating a small area
of such crops as were needed for home consumption, see-

THe Susursan Home 15

ing little of the world beyond the narrow circle about
him, living in a barren little world of his own. Today he
may know, by means of the daily paper and the tele-
phone, what is taking place in the remotest parts of the
earth; and the quick methods of travel enable him to
mingle with the crowds of the metropolis for business or
pleasure. By this association with men under a great
variety of conditions and close contact with ever-chang-
ing Nature, he becomes a broader and more fully devel-
oped man than is possible for those who are confined to
more routine work, doing the same task day by day,
year in and year out.

FARMING AND GARDENING FOR PLEASURE
OR AS A BUSINESS.

Farming or gardening as a business offers especial in-
ducements at the present time. In no other country
are there so many well-to-do people, and the consump-
tion of choice fruits and vegetables is steadily increasing.
We have the best home markets in the world, and other
countries are calling for our surplus products. Choice
fruits and vegetables and all dairy products are in de-
mand at good prices, but the growers of these must
compete more or less with the growers of countries
where labor is cheap and conditions the most favorable.
Tropical fruits and vegetables are being put into our
markets in immense quantities, and unless we produce
the finest qualities these will be used in preference to
home products. If our people cannot obtain choice
apples, grapes, strawberries, or other native fruits, they
will buy bananas, pineapples, oranges, etc., which are
sold in our markets at low prices.

With these cheap-labor competitors producing fruits
and vegetables that come to our markets at all seasons
of the year, our farmers need to put forth all their energy

16 Tue Smart Country PLacer

and skill to put into the markets products that will be
equal if not superior to those received from the South
and other countries, often months after they are har-
vested. This we can do. There is no country in the
world that can produce better fruits (large and small)
and vegetables than ours, and most of our more perish-
able small fruits and vegetables can be put into the
hands of the consumer in so much more perfect condi-
tion than those shipped from distant points, that choice
home products are sure to be in demand at good prices.
Even during the winter, at the North, we may success-
fully compete with tropical countries in producing,
under glass, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, and other
hot-house products.

The small farm is often more profitable than a large
one. Too many farmers are land poor, while many
have made fortunes on a few acres.

The city man with his family, tired of the rush and
fever of city life, may often find desired rest and an
_ abundant support on the small farm, if he will give close
attention to the work and carry it on upon the business
principles in vogue in the large city enterprises in which
he was only an insignificant part. While dependent
upon his own efforts for support he is independent of
rules and restraints of exacting employers whose main
effort is to get as much as possible out of their employees
for the smallest possible wage.

THE Home OwNER AND HOME SEEKER.

The readers whom this book is intended to aid may
be grouped into (1) those seeking new homes for health,
pleasanter surroundings, and freedom from the rush and
bustle of the city, and who may not be dependent upon
the land for their support; (2) those who already own
small places that they wish to improve and make more

THe SuspuRBAN Home Lz

profitable; and (3) those of both classes who are wholly
dependent upon their crops for a livelihood.

To the home seeker who consults the lists of real estate
agents or the advertising columns of the agricultural
papers it would seem that almost every land-owner
wanted to sell. The number of places thus offered for
sale however is but a very small fraction of the desirable
homes occupied by those who do not wish to sell. It is
true that the rural population in many sections changes
frequently, often by death of old residents, the younger
members of the family having gone to seek their for-
tunes in cities, where large enterprises attract them.
Some fail in their efforts for want of working capital or
because of improperly directed labor, and try other
fields of effort. Among the farms thus coming into
the market, now and then may be found an ideal place,
but the majority will require capital, and often long, hard
work, to put them into comfortable and profitable con-
dition. There are in almost every section of the coun-
try small places that will make good homes and may
be improved so as to yield profitable returns, when con-
ducted on intelligent business principles.

WHERE SHALL WE Look FoR NEw Homes?

Temperament, health and individual taste must deter-
mine whether one should locate North or South, East or
West. For each location superior advantages will be
claimed, but there are in every section some special con-
ditions which the home seeker should consider. Points
that should have special attention wherever we locate are:

1. Healthful and pleasant surroundings.

2. Good schools and churches.

3. Congenial social and political conditions.

4. Soil and exposure suited to the business to be

‘\ followed.

2

18 Tue Smartt Country Pace

5. Suitable buildings.

6. Accessible markets.

7. Good roads and facilities for transporting produce
and getting to and from centres of business with which
one must keep in touch for the greatest success.

8. Is there woodland on the place?

g. Capital required for our enterprises.

1. Healthful and Pleasant Surroundings.

The most important question to be answered in look-
ing for a home in the country is, are there any unhealth-
ful conditions either about or near the building? With-
out healthful surroundings one can hardly expect good
health, without which few will be successful in business
or take much pleasure in life. The house and stable
cellars should be carefully inspected. If the soil about
them is springy, tile drains should be laid so as to carry
off all water that otherwise would settle into the cellars.
The location of the stable cellar, yard, or cesspools, etc.,
as related to the water supply must be studied. If within
two hundred feet, or in some cases even further away,
the surface water will certainly settle into these deep
basins, and become foul and a menace to health. The
water from long-established wells, even in the country,
is often more dangerous than that from those more re-
cently made in more thickly settled sections. The safest
water for family use is that from well aerated basins, or
from rain-water from the roof after being filtered through
brick or sand. Deep driven wells generally supply water
free from objectionable organic matter, but may contain
mineral elements that make the water hard or more or
less unhealthful. From whatever source the water sup-
ply comes, the only way to be sure of its purity and
healthfulness is to have samples analyzed by some board
of health or experiment station, of which there is one or

THe Supurspan Home 19

more in every state, where such work is done at a nom-
inal cost.

High elevations, where there is good drainage of the
surface water away from the buildings, should be looked
for, and yet in northern sections the buildings should if
possible be sheltered by windbreaks of hills or trees
from north and east winds. While the mercury will not
go as low upon hills of moderate height as in the valleys,
moving air 1s more uncomfortable than still air. Many
crops, too, succeed better when in full exposure to air
and sunlight on our small hills. Low malarial locations,
near stagnant streams and pools, should be avoided, for
no diseases are more insidious and difficult to cure than
the germ diseases contracted in such localities.

2. Are There Good Schools and Churches?

In selecting a home, I shall place good schools and
churches next in importance to healthful surroundings.
In these days of business strife and competition no one
can expect to be successful in the highest degree without
at least a fair education; and apart from its bearing on
business success or failure, the educated man or woman
can enjoy more, and be able to do more good to those
about them, than the uneducated. Wherever we find
good schools, we find intelligent and peace-loving citizens.
Churches, too, are a good index of the moral conditions
of any community. While all church-goers are not
always above reproach in their dealings with their fellow-
men, the average standard of a church-going community
is far above that of the non-church goers, and the habit
of setting apart one day each week for attendance upon
divine worship, and for home recreation with one’s fam-
ily, cannot be too earnestly urged. The moral character
and thrift of a community should be fully studied. In-
dustrious people are as a rule peaceable and contented,

20 THe SmaALL Country PLace

and those who have their time well occupied with their
own affairs have little time in which to make trouble for
others. A community of thrifty people should be se-
lected if possible. Wasteful people soon come to want,
and this often leads to social disorders of many kinds.

3. A Congenital Social and Political Community
Desirable.

Man is naturally a social being and needs the associa-
tion of his fellows in order to reach his fullest develop-
ment. In an uncongenial community one is inclined
to draw within oneself, which soon leads to egotistical
and narrow views of life. While much can be done by
precept and by personal example toward improving
social conditions, such efforts are likely to be more fruit-
ful and life is much more enjoyable in a community
where the majority are in sympathy with each other and
united in their efforts to promote the general welfare. In
union of effort there is strength.

4. What ts the Land Suited to Grow ?

Before we start out in our efforts to improve the farm,
we must first decide what lines of agriculture or horti-
culture we are best qualified to follow, and what the land
is best suited to produce. The margin for profit in grow-
ing any of the farm or garden crops is very small, and
unless the soil and other conditions are favorable, and
the work be skilfully done, there is sure to be little profit
if not actual loss. If we decide to grow fruits, and wish
land suited for them, we would select rather heavy
moist land—good grass land—for the apples, pears,
currants, raspberries and blackberries. The vegetables
that succeed upon this kind of land are cabbages, cauli-
flower, celery, etc. Light, medium loamy soil, with a
southern exposure, is well adapted to the growth of

Tue Suspursan Home Hy

small fruits, grapes, peaches, early vegetables of all
kinds, melons, squashes, and poultry. Very thin light
soil may be useful for crops that mature early, before
the usual droughty season comes on, like asparagus,
beets, beans, early lettuce, etc. A northern slope, if in
full exposure to sunlight and air, is well suited to the
growth of apples, peaches, late strawberries, raspberries
and blackberries, cabbages, turnips, dandelions, etc. The

Fic. 2—A Cottage Home, after Remodelling. Valued at $1200.

greatest possibilities of any piece of land cannot certainly
be determined by examination, and as much as possible
concerning its production for the past three or four
years should be learned from the previous owner or
from the neighbors. It may require several years with
trial crops to determine its adaptability, and it is best
therefore at first not to risk large areas in experimental
crops. We may generally expect, however, by the lib-
eral application of stable manure and other fertilizers,

8) THe Smartt Country Pacer

and thorough and constant tillage, that paying crops
may be grown. It must be borne in mind that in taking
up a new business, or in changing methods or location,
some time may elapse before all of the conditions for
success are mastered. This is especially the case with
lines of agriculture and horticulture, where our capital
can be turned and where we can see and profit by the
results of a trial of any variety or method but once in
a year. The success of a crop the first year will also
depend much upon what crop was grown upon the
land the previous year, and perhaps for a series of three
or four years.

5. What Buildings Must We Have ?

Buildings are the most expensive part of the equip-
ment of the country home or small farm, and the num-
ber and size of the buildings needed for the business in
hand will depend largely upon the size of the family and
the amount of land to be cultivated. If our means are
limited, we cannot afford large and costly buildings
and a few good, well-lighted and healthful rooms that
can be made comfortable in all weathers will suffice to
start with. A small dwelling-house and small outbuild-
ings with some space between them, to which additions
can be made as the business or other conditions require,
are better to start with than large buildings that must
be cared for and continually kept in repair. If possible
all the rooms in the house should have the sun some
portion of the day, especially the living and sleeping
rooms. If we are purchasing a home, we must carefully
inspect the foundation and sills, for many buildings that
are apparently sound upon the outside, will be found in
a sad state of decay under the sheathing or finish inside,
which will lead to no end of trouble and expense. Ex-
amine the chimneys carefully, for in old buildings there

Tue Susursan Home 28

are often openings between the bricks, where the mortar
has fallen out, endangering the wood-work near should
the accumulating soot take fire. A large proportion of
country fires are due to defective flues. One should
select buildings, if possible, with the sills well up from
the ground upon good underpinning of stone or brick.
This ensures the sills from decay and allows for good
ventilation of the cellar. Enough stable room and out-
buildings should be provided to properly protect all
animals and tools from the weather. By a systematic
arrangement a large number of tools may be kept within
a small space. More of our agricultural tools rust out
than wear out. Rapid and good work cannot be done
with rusty tools.

6. What Are the Markets ?

To grow a crop successfully and cheaply, and be able
to sell it to the best advantage, requires talents possessed
by but few individuals. The market where produce may
be sold should be carefully investigated. If within
teaming distance, or where express trains run frequently,
one may look for good prices for choice products, while
small markets soon become glutted and prices will be
low, even for the best. The business of supplying the
non-producing population with fruit and vegetables has
changed greatly in the last two decades. Few families
now lay in a supply of these articles for winter’s use, Dut
depend upon the peddler or the retail grocer for their
needs from day to day. Instead of buying a bushel of
potatoes, beets, or turnips, a barrel of apples, etc., they
buy in much smaller quantities. To supply the con-
sumer in this manner requires the grower either to
‘“‘peddle”’ or to sell his products to those who are in the
retail or peddling business. If he sells to the peddler,
he must be satisfied to give him a large per cent. of profit.

24 Tue Smartt Country Pace

If he peddles, he must give up a large amount of time
that is valuable in growing the crops, and it is very diffi-
cult to hire men who will do either the garden work or
the peddling well, except under the eye of the owner.

There is at the present time a tendency in all lines of
business to combine producing large quantities or culti-
vating large areas under one management. The small
farmer is not exempt from this necessity of combining
with others to obtain the greatest profit, but by doing his
own work largely and supplying the consumer at first
hand he may retain his independence and receive reason-
able compensation for his labor. By codperation in the
purchase and use of modern machinery, fertilizers, and
supplies, the protection of crops from insects and fungous
pests, the small farmers may be more successful finan-
cially and still be men of broad and varied training and
not the narrow, mere machines which those who work for
large corporations are likely to become. Specializing in
farming is as much a necessity as in other callings, for the
best results. The man who devotes his whole time to
growing asparagus, strawberries, or apples, will be sure to
grow a better product than if a large number of crops are
grown, but he runs the risk of losing all by the destruc-
tion of the crop by insects, frosts, or unfavorable
weather. We should have one or more sure money crops
and take our chances with two or three more that under
favorable conditions, prompt effort and skill on our part
are generally profitable. Thus asparagus, apples, and
strawberries are reasonably sure to be profitable under
fair treatment, while peaches, grapes, celery, squashes,
etc., are more dependent upon weather conditions and
may sometimes fail even with our best efforts.

A location near markets has many advantages. If
within easy driving distance one can be frequently in the
markets, keep their condition closely in mind and sell

THe SupurBan Home 5 Jg5

or hold as supply or prices may render advisable. The
cost of teaming our products, if the distance be not
great, may be reduced to the minimum by taking return
loads of stable manure or other supplies back to the farm
with little or no loss of time.

On the other hand land is more expensive in locations
near the markets. If one is on a good line of railroad
where trains run frequently and freight and express rates
are not excessive he can often send heavy produce long
distances by rail cheaper than by team. The close com-
munication with the markets is, however, lost and he is
dependent upon the commission man or the market
reports.

7. Are the Roads Good ?

Much of success in business and comfort of living in
the country depends upon good roads. If we are a con-
siderable distance from post-office, stores, schools,
churches, etc., good roads will help wonderfully in the
travel to and from them. If we must take our produce
a long distance to market or to the railroad station,
good roads will reduce the wear and tear of wagons,
horses, and harness, and consequently the cost of getting
it to market. If one is located on a line of state or
macadam road he will find it smooth and passable at all
seasons of the year, while the ordinary country road is
often impassable for heavy loads in the winter or spring.
Good roads cannot be made without good road material.
If there is only sand or clay with which to build roads
they will be poor and only small loads can be drawn over
them. Nor can a good road be made upon land satur-
ated with water without first unde --drain'‘ng the road-
bed. Furthermore, the surface should be crowned at
least two inches to the foot, and the poorer the material
the greater must be this crowning. If roads are hollowed

26 Tue Smartt Country Pace

out in the middle water will stand in these depressions
and the road material will be rapidly worn to dust
which will fly to every one’s discomfort during dry, hot
weather or to mud in the rainy season. In northern sec-
tions if possible we should locate on roads where the
snow does not drift badly in the winter, making it diff-
cult or impossible to get out without much hard work
after heavy storms.

In many sections trolley. lines are carrying farm prod-
uce to market or to the steam roads whence it goes to
market to be sold by one’s representative or by the
commission man. This method of disposing of our farm
products has not become as general as it should. Trolley
lines. should..be compelled.to, give the people. better
facilities than they now enjoy in compensation for the
almost unlimited privileges granted them.

8. Is There Woodland on the Place ?

In these days, when timber is being used up so rap-
idly, the supply is fast decreasing and the price is going
higher every year; it\is a great advantage, tor haved
wood-lot or timber trees upon the place. We must have
more or less wood for our fires, and lumber for repairs
for fences even upon the smallest place, and many ~
devices and conveniences, and a small area properly
cared for will supply a large number of these wants.
Then a grove or ‘“‘woodsy”’ place where we may take a
stroll in perfect quiet, or with the family or friends, is
one of the greatest luxuries of country life. As a rule
woodland is not held at high prices in most country dis-
tricts. It may be purchased at from $10 to $50 per
acre according to the amount of wood and lumber upon
it. If located upon the north or west of the building
the force of prevailing cold winds will be broken and
the place be much more comfortable.

Fig. 3—A Cotrace Home. VALUED AT $800.

Mae AREY»
“ eis ‘

THE SupurBAN Home 29

g. The Capital Required.

One can hardly expect to go into the business of run-
ning even a small farm without some capital, either in
ready cash, a place well equipped with tools and supplies,
or a large amount of health and vigor to put into the pro-
duction of crops that shall early yield an income for the
support of the family and to pay any interest and the
taxes that are inevitable. The amount of capital needed
will depend upon what are the prospects for an income
early in the season, from poultry, asparagus, straw-
berries, or other sources that yield returns before the
main crops mature, and what expenses must be met for
the family, for fertilizers, labor, grain, tools, etc. Witha
farm owned or rented, a capital of from a few hundred
dollars to perhaps one thousand dollars may be needed,
according to the above conditions. By the neighborly
exchange of labor and use of tools the cost of equip-
ment may be much reduced, but it is much more satis-
factory for each farmer to own all ordinary tools and
machines, that he may be able to use them whenever
needed without inconveniencing any one. Careful ac-
counts should be kept from the first, and if possible
nothing should be purchased until the money is in hand,
to pay for it. With all the risks and chances with pests
and wind and weather, this is the only safe course until
we have something laid aside upon which to draw for
investment or for increase of business.

SUMMARY.

With all the foregoing points in mind, those who plan
to purchase or rent new places should begin a systematic
and persistent search, looking over lists of real-estate
agents, inquiring of friends, and using every means
possible until the right place is found. This may be

30 THe Smartt Country PLace

“early in the game,’’ or we may have to look about for
weeks or months. One would hardly expect to findevery-
thing desired ready-made for him. The land may be just
to our ideas but the buildings in a decayed or unsatisfac- _
tory condition; or the buildings may be just what we
want but the land not quite right as to exposure or soil,
with too many large rocks or boulders upon it, or it may
be in an exhausted condition from neglect. As it is the
land from which we are to obtain our income, those who
are dependent upon it wholly for support must give this
the closest attention. If the land is simply run down
from neglect, but of naturally good quality, we may
renovate it at small expense. If very uneven or full of
large rocks it will require much expense to take out the
rocks and put it in good condition to cultivate profitably.
Small farms of from five to ten acres may often be found
in desirable locations at from $1,000 to $3,000, in many
cases for less than the value of building at the present
prices of lumber and labor. Fig. 1 (Frontispiece) shows
a place valued at $3,500, Fig. 2 one at $1,200, and Fig.
3. one valued at $800. ;

Farm property located not too far from railroads 1s
considered good for investments and if one has not much
capital a good place may be mortgaged for one-half to
two-thirds value.

CHAPTER II

REMODELLING AND ImMpRovinc Otp ButLpInes

HE owner of a small farm will find that whether
he has occupied it a long time or has just pur-
chased it and is about to make a new depart-

ure in his business, more or less changing, repairing and
improving will be needed. If one is not familiar with
this kind of work an expert should be consulted.
Fig. 4a shows a house before remodelling. Fig. 4b the
same after changes are completed.

Utilize all Old Material.

With the high price of lumber, which is rapidly in-
creasing, every one should make the most of what good
material there may be in old buildings upon the place
before building new ones. There are a great many old
buildings which may be repaired for much less than new
ones would cost, and when these are not worth repair-
ing much of the lumber may be used in other buildings.
This may be rough and more or less full of nails, and
carpenters do not like to work it over with nice tools,
but with the ordinary tools that one should keep for
such work it may be sorted out and cleaned up at odd
times so as not to cost as much as new lumber. It is on
the ground, no money need be paid for it, there is so
much good material saved to the world, and perhaps
best of all, an unsightly object is obliterated or changed
into something of utility and possibly of beauty. The
frames of most old buildings are very heavy, many of

31

22 THe Smartt Country PLacer

the posts and plates being large enough for sills of
modern buildings, while rafters are large enough for
posts and plates. It is thoroughly seasoned and when
fitted in place will be less hable to warp than new
lumber.

First Make Buildings and Surroundings Healthful.

As when deciding about the location and surroundings
of the house, the healthfulness in and about old build-
ings is by far more important than any other considera-
tion. Search should be made from cellar to attic, through
and about every building, for anything that would pos-
sibly produce unhealthful conditions. Begin with the
cellars. See that surface water or that from springs does
not run in through the walls, making it damp and
malarial. See that the water supply for the house and
stable has not become contaminated by drainage from
the cesspool, sink or stable.

Examine the Sills.

About the first thing to need renewing, especially
when the buildings are set low, are the sills, and these
are often the most costly to repair. As soon as the foun-
dation begins to settle or the sills become soft, there is a
settling of the frame above, the windows and doors be-
come tight, the walls crack and soon extensive repairs
may have to be made. At the first indication of this,
jack-screws should be put under, these parts raised into
place and substantially supported. All foundation walls,
piers, or other supports should be laid below frost line,
which will vary in different sections from two to four
feet. A “stitch in time” will often save much loss and
sometimes prevent serious accidents. The best mate-
rial for sills where exposed to much wet or in poorly ven-
tilated places is chestnut or cypress. Should the build-

Fic. 4a—A Corracre Housr Brrore REMODELLING.

Fic. 4b6—A Corracre House Arrer REMODELLI

REMODELLING O_p BuItpINnGs a

ing be set low, so that the sills are constantly wet, it
might be economy to raise the whole building to a foun-
dation a foot or two higher and put in windows, so that
the inside sills and floor timbers may be kept dry, under
which condition they will not decay any more rapidly
than other parts of the frame.

Roojs and Gutters.

Next after the foundation and sills the roofs should
have attention; in fact, no part of a building will last
long under a leaky roof. If the leaky condition is due to
decayed shingles they should be replaced by new or
some of the asphalt roofing materials, many of which
if carefully laid, the joints well cemented, and after-
wards given a coat of asphalt every two or three years,
will last a long time. Good clear butts spruce shingles
are perhaps cheaper in the end than these roofing ma-
terials, but the first cost is more and more skilled laborers
are needed to put them on. Roof gutters and spaces
about chimneys should have careful attention and tin,
lead, or asphalt roofing, well cemented, be laid so wide,
that the water will not set back and run through to the
rooms below. To prevent water from setting back
from the eaves during severe cold weather in winter,
two or three thicknesses of ordinary building paper
should be laid under the shingles, or other roofing ma-
terial. Where warmth in the rooms immediately under
the roof is desired, building paper should first be laid.
Many poultry-houses are built with side walls well
lined with paper and then shingled, while the roof (the
most exposed part) is shingled upon only open jointed
boards, the cold dropping quickly to the floor, and no
amount of side covering will make them warm.

26 THe Smatt Country Pace

Slate Shingles.

If one can afford the expense, slate shingles are more
durable and cheaper in the end if well laid. It is the
practice in some localities to lay slate shingles over old
wood shingles. If the latter are fairly good and all in
place this makes a much warmer roof, and is to be
recommended. Should the old lining-boards be rough
and uneven when the old shingles are removed, two
thicknesses of ordinary building paper will enable slate
shingles to be safely laid.

Iron and Steel Roofing.

Iron and steel roofing materials are being offered at a
very low price, but most of them last only a short time,
rusting out quickly when exposed to the weather. If
these roofings are thoroughly painted on the under side
before laying and given a heavy coat of paint on the
outside every two or three years they make a fairly sat-
isfactory roof.

Heavy tin and thickly galvanized iron or steel make
more serviceable roofs than the above.

Inside Conveniences; Water.

Nothing adds so much to the economy of housework
and comfortable living as an abundance of water, sup-
plied without the labor of pumping or carrying it.
Running water from springs or some town or city supply
is the most satisfactory. When this is not available, the
supply may be forced into an elevated tank by wind-
mill, ram or gasoline engine. When there is a never-
failing small stream with sufficient fall the hydraulic
ram is very satisfactory.

For many years past windmills have been largely
used to force water into the supply-tanks, but most of

REMODELLING OLp BuILpincs oF

them are likely to soon wear out or get out of order,
being exposed to high winds and gales, and they are now
being replaced by gasoline or hot-air engines; when an
engine is properly installed, well protected, and care-
fully used, it will last a long time and the water supply
is insured whether the wind blows or not.

Purity of the Water.

Town and city water supplies are generally carefully
inspected by local authorities or state officials and are
safer than water from local wells or basins. Before any
water supply is used freely it should be carefully in-
spected and if any doubt exists as to its purity samples
should be sent to experiment stations, state boards of
health, or other authorities whose duty it is to analyze
such supply.

Bath-rooms, hot and cold water, and water-closets
should be put into every country home, wherever pos-
sible. These can be arranged in a small space, and if
the water cannot be supplied in any other way, a good
force-pump will do the work of supplying the tank in
the attic in an hour or two each day. A very small
expenditure for so great a luxury,

Samitation.

Wherever waste water is carried into cesspools or
vaults the pipes must be provided with proper traps
and escapes to prevent the
gas from these places from
eurering the buildings
(Fig. 5). All traps should
be placed where they may be
easily gotten at and cleaned
out in case of stoppage, and “ray

; : Fic. 5—A Trap to Prevent Escape
where they will not freeze in of Sewer Gas from Cesspools, Ete.

38 Tue Smatt Country PLace

severe weather. If avery large amount of foul matter is
going through the trap it will soon become unsafe and
should be cleaned at short intervals. A vent-pipe for the
escape of gases from below the trap should be put in, in
all cases. Cisterns and cesspools should be cleaned out at
least once each ‘year and the latter more frequently
necessary. Where the cesspool is in springy soil an
overflow pipe should be put in a little below this pipe
so that the flow into it may not become clogged with
solid matter which generally rises to the surface.

Bay AND DoRMER WINDowsS, PORCHES, VERANDAS,
PIAzzAs ETc.

Many old country houses have been very much im-
proved and beautified by some of the above-mentioned
features. Thus a dark, poorly lighted room may often
be made light and sunny by the addition of a project-
ing or bay window from the side or end. If upon the
north, the projection may be such as to catch the sun’s
rays morning and evening. If upon the south, and the
space is not otherwise needed, it may serve as a con-
servatory where the house plants can be cared for with
but little effort. Dormer windows may often be put into
the roof (see Fig. 2) in such a way as to make additional
rooms in the attic that are well lighted and sunny.
Covered porches and storm-doors add much to the com-
fort of the family in stormy weather and may be made
to add beauty to the house as well.

Piazzas and verandas are often a great luxury.
On the north in summer and the south side in the
winter they afford quiet resting-places for invalids or
those wearied by toil of any kind. These need not
be expensive structures. A simple, light, but strong
frame covered with sound boards and tin planed and
beaded on the under side so that they may be neatly

REMODELLING OLD BuILpIncs 39

painted will suffice. If given but a slight pitch and
covered with heavy tin laid flat this will make sufficient
cover for the floor below and serve as the floor of a bal-
cony above. The heavy verandas and piazzas built to
many of our dwellings often overbalance the rest of the
structure and add to its cost more than is warranted.
The open veranda or platform over which an awning
is placed (see Fig. 2) in the summer and in stormy
weather has the advantage that the windows opening
out upon it need not be shaded unless desired, and in
pleasant weather one may be out in full exposure to sun-
light and air. The shingled veranda adds much of beauty
and comfort to old country houses.

REPAIRS OF OUTBUILDINGS.

The wood-shed, storage-room and tool-rooms are per-
haps of next importance. Besides storing a sufficient
supply of wood for the year, the shed should be large
enough to comfortably store many of the appliances of
the kitchen and laundry—the forms upon which the
wash-tubs stand, the clothes-horse, baskets, etc., and
perhaps the wheelbarrow, baby carriage, bicycles, and
numerous other articles, needed for the comfort of the
family. Wherever these things are stored, each should
have a place, and every member of the family should be
expected to return each to its place after using. By a
series of pegs, or hooks and a shelf or two, a large num-
ber of small articles may be hung or put away where
they are in sight and easily reached.

The Tool-House.

Whether we are farming or gardening on a small or
large scale, a more or less large equipment of tools is
needed for successful and profitable work, both for out-
side work and under cover on stormy days and during

4O Tue Smartt Country Pace

the winter. The most successful farmers or gardeners
are handy men, able to turn their hands to many kinds
of work, and not always dependent upon the mechanics
in the town or city, which may be several miles away,
often taking more time to go and return with a job than
to do the work oneself. A small kit of tools for iron
working, and wood working, a supply of bolts, nuts,
screws, nails, etc., that cost but a few dollars, will often
save all they cost in repairing but a few articles.

Fic. 6—A Handy Tool-Room or Work-Shop.

To make the most of sich an equipment one mogee
know how to care for them, be more or less skilful in
their use, and have them systematically arranged where
they may always be found when wanted. Sets of
wrenches, cold chisels, bits, drills, and other tools should
be compactly placed in racks or drawers where they
may almost be found with the eyes -closed (ig: a7:
Different kinds of woods, boards, mouldings, etc., should

ReEMopeELLtInc Oxip Buitprines Al

be placed in racks upon the ceiling or under the bench.
A wooden vise attached to a substantial bench is needed
for wood working and an iron one with an anvil attach-
ment will be found most useful. If one has a large
equipment of teams and tools, a portable forge, a few
plumbing tools, taps and dies, etc., will save many a
large bill.

Care of Farming and Gardening Tools.

The good workman is known by his tools, and no
workman can do his best with poor tools or those badly

Fic. 7—The Tooi-Room. Farm Tools Hung on the Walls
of the Barn Basement.

cared for. All tools should be cleaned and wiped after
using and hung in their proper places. A large number
of tools may be kept in a very small space when prop-
erly arranged. The large tools like mowing-machines,
horse-rakes, etc., will require considerable floor room,
but the plows, cultivators, seed-sowers, weeders, etc.,
may be hung upon pegs or large hooks along the sides
of the tool- or wagon-shed or cellar, as shown in the

42 Tue Smartt Country PLace

illustration (Fig. 7). Chains, whiffletrees, eveners, etc.,
may be disposed of in the same manner, when they may
be quickly taken down for use or an inventory taken at
a glance to tell whether any have been left out or been
borrowed by neighbors. Spades, shovels, forks, rakes,
hoes, etc., may be hung in a still more compact manner
upon racks, either home-made or the neat cast-iron ones
offered by dealers.

Mark all Tools.

Nothing gives one more trouble than lending tools in
the busy season, and while we all like to be neighborly,
many borrowers are so forgetful that we often reach
the state of declining to lend to any one. However,
as we at times find it necessary to ask favors of neigh-
bors, and we should all “give and take,’’ we may get over
the difficulty somewhat by having every ‘tool distinctly
marked or branded with our name. As it is very desir-
able to have the wood-work of all tools covered with
oil or paint, if we adopt some distinctive color and in
addition to branding paint all wood-work every two or
three years with our special color, we can recognize our
tools at a long distance and easily keep them at home.

Have a Warm Tool-Room.

A room that can be warmed is almost a necessity where
repairs of tools, harness, market boxes, berry crates, etc.,
can be comfortably made in stormy weather and during
the winter. The room should be dry, and when the
weather is very moist and warm outside and cold inside,
the doors and windows must be kept closed or the
moisture will be condensed upon the tools, causing
them to rust badly. In the fall, while the tools are
bright, if covered with a thin coating of linseed oil they
will be protected from rusting.

ReMopDeELLinc Oxtp Buitprnes 43

Poultry Houses.

Raising poultry is one of the largest interests on most
small farms, and one in which cheap buildings if warm
and dry are often as serviceable as more costly ones.
An abundance of sunlight, warmth, and air must be pro-
vided. The first must be provided by a large glass sur-
face on the south side. Second-hand window-sash or hot-
bed sash may often be purchased for about the value of
the glass in them, and if the frames are not badly de-

Fig. 8—A Modern Poultry-House with Seratching Shed.

cayed, by removing the glass, cleaning off the putty and
thoroughly saturating the joints with thin paint, using
a little kerosene in it, they may be made almost as good
as new. Double sash will be economical during the win-
ter if ventilators are provided for a sufficient supply of
fresh air during the middle of the day and in warm
weather (Fig. 8). Thin cotton cloth is now coming into
use in place of glass as shown in the lower sash. It
affords more protection from cold than glass, and pre-
vents drafts when it is necessary to open on warm days.

44 THe Smartt Country PLace

Warm Houses.

There is little danger of getting old houses too warm
if scratching-sheds are provided. There will always
be more or less cracks and holes through which cold
air will come. Old houses can be made warm by the
use of building paper and banking about the foun-
dation with old hay or straw. Tarred paper is largely
used, ‘as it is antiseptic’ and a partial msechieme
though not as warm as untarred or felt paper. The
lining-boards between the rafters should be covered
as well as the sides of the building, for no ‘matter
how warm the sides are made, the houses will be cold and
damp from the cold air dropping down from this ex-
posed surface.. If there is no floor‘ in the house,sime
ground outside for three or four feet should be covered
with enough hay, straw or leaves to prevent its freez-
ing, for without this covering the frost might work into
the soil inside, no matter how warm the sides and roof
are made.

Barn, Stable, and Carriage-House.

What has been said of the foundation, sills, roof, etc.,
of other buildings applies equally well to these struc-
tures. Whenever possible changes should be made to _
improve the conveniences for caring for stock and com-
fort of the same, storing fodder, and the disposal of the
manure, etc. The latter should be disposed of in such a
manner that the gases shall not rise into the stable or
carriage-room. If it is dropped into the cellar below an
abundance of absorbent material must be used, and
windows made through the under-pinning on three or
four sides. The best disposition that can be made of
this material is to either put it on the land as made or
dump it into a covered watertight pit, with all waste

REMODELLING OLp BwuILpInGs 45

matter from lawn, house, or garden, and keep it well
covered with fine soil or other absorbents. It is sur-
prising how much rich compost can be made from one or
two animals or even from more in this manner, and the
abundance of vegetables and fruit this compost will
enable us to grow.

Cheap buildings may be made tight and warm in the
manner described for poultry-houses. A very neat ap-
pearance will be produced upon the sides, if heavy roof-
ing paper is used, with vertical strips or battens placed
neatly about one foot apart, and then all painted.
Horses and cows need a warm dry place with an abun-

Fic. 9—A Modern System of Ventilating Stables,
Poultry-Houses, Ete.

dance of sunlight and air. One of the most approved
methods of ventilating stables or poultry buildings is to
have the fresh air come in from the outside at the sills,
entering the stable under the upper floor, and the foul
air passing into a shaft near the floor somewhere in
front of the animals on a level with the floor (Fig. g).

46 Tue Smart Country Pace

One inlet 4 x 20 inches to each ten feet of length will be
sufficient for a small number of animals, with an exit
shaft from one to two feet square, according to the
number of animals.

SHINGLING WALLS oF OLD BUILDINGS.

Many old buildings have become unsightly from the
starting and working off of the clapboards, which it is
found difficult to hold in place with anything but large

Fic. 10—A Small Shingled Building Covered with Vines;
Grapevine above, Nasturtiums below.

nails that often crack them, increasing the unsightliness.
Such walls may be covered with shingles, first removing
the clapboards and putting on over the lining-boards
one or two thicknesses of building paper, making very
warm and neat buildings. The cost of first quality
shingles and clapboards is about the same per square
(100 sq. ft. ro x zo it.) when the former are laidjious
inches to the weather, but when laid five inches or five

REMODELLING Otp BuILpINGs 47

and one-half inches to the weather as is often done upon
upright walls, shingles become the cheapest and can be
laid by less skilled laborers.

Shingles should never be painted on the outside only,
as they will decay more quickly than if not painted at
all, for the reason that the rain will work in at the
cracks, but will work out less rapidly from a painted
roof. If it is desirable to paint shingled surfaces either
on the roof or sides the butts should first be dipped into
thin paint an inch or two above where they lap when
laid after which they may be painted with but little or
no injury. The majority of shingled roofs and houses
are not painted, the natural color of the unpainted
shingles being preferred as more in keeping with natural
objects like rocks, tree trunks, etc. A shingled house,
unpainted, with window frames white or dark green and
the sash black, in a setting of ornamental trees, vines,
and plants; with more or less color from bright flowers,
leaves and fruits, is about as near natural beauty as
the hand of man can produce. Fig. to shows a shed
covered with shingles and vines, and Fig. 11 a modern
shingled house.

Painting Old Buildings.

Nothing adds more to the beauty of old buildings than
a good coat of paint of pleasing colors, suited to the
surroundings. Painting is one of the best investments
one who owns buildings can make. We paint for two
reasons—to preserve the wood work, and to enhance the
beauty of the buildings. To preserve the wood work it
is economy to put on a coat of paint every three to five
years, according to the weather conditions and the kind
of paint used. In seasons of many changes from wet to
dry paint will come off of wood work more rapidly than
when we have but few changes and little rain. Some

48 THe Smatt Country Pace

kinds of paint will stand well for from five to eight years,
while others will last but a short time.

To produce the best results, buildings should be
thoroughly dry, that the paint may penetrate into all
the cracks and crevices and thus shut out the moisture,

Fic. 11—A Modern Shingled House.

which causes wood work to decay most rapidly. It may

take more paint under this condition, but it will be
economy in the end.

Tume for Painting..,

In view of what has just been said it would seem that
during a very dry summer would be the best time to
paint our houses, but the general practice is to paint in
the spring or early fall, and very little attention is given
to the condition of the buildings, state of the weather,
etc. Perhaps the reason for this practice is the fact
that the weather conditions at these times are as good as
at any other season and labor less busy. The winter
months have many advantages for painting. During
cold weather the same amount of oil and coloring matter
will be a little thicker than in the summer, will dry or

REMODELLING OLp BuItpincs 49

harden more upon the surface, and may thus possess
just as much preservative power as if it penetrated more
into the wood work. Many skilled painters use a large
amount of turpentine with the first coat of paint upon old
buildings to make it penetrate better, but turpentine
is often almost double the cost of oil and is not as much
of a preservative. Therefore while we conclude that the
winter may not be the best time to paint, the work is
sO expensive an operation that those who are about to
paint their buildings should do it when it can be done
most thoroughly and most economically.

Kind of Paints to Use.

It is generally conceded that pure white lead and pure
linseed oil make the most durable paint, and in the end
the cheapest. With white lead as a foundation almost
any medium or light colors may be produced by the ad-
dition of the necessary dark colors. A large percentage
of the paints used are what are called “ready mixed.”

Ready mixed paints put up by reputable dealers are
good, being mixed by machinery, and therefore the
lead or other pigments are more intimately mixed
with the oil than can be done by hand; but in the
greed for profits many ready mixed paints made by
unprincipled manufacturers are adulterated, and dealers
often advocate their use because of the larger profit to
themselves.

Mixing Paints.

If standard white lead is used for the foundation much
care and skill must be exercised if a variety of colors
is desired. In this work the lead should be first thor-
oughly mixed so that it is smooth and even all through;
then the coloring materials are to be as thoroughly
mixed, and then unless a fixed formula is used a little is

4

50 Tue Smart Country PLace

added to the white and stirred until the whole is thor-
oughly mixed. This is repeated until the shade is just
like the sample to be matched. If dry coloring materials
are used, each one should be thoroughly mixed sepa-
rately, with a little oil only, until smooth, then more oil
added and again mixed until it will pour, then it is
mixed with the white lead.

No definite rule can be given as to the quantity of
various materials needed to produce certain tints, but
with a sample on a card or piece of wood one must keep
adding, little at a time, the colors that will produce the
desired shade. In testing a color, one must rub it thor-
oughly with the brush in order to bring out the same
shade as would be obtained by spreading it upon a
building.

Popular Colors.

Every few years certain colors are “in fashion,”’ as
are coats, hats or gloves. Thus various shades of gray
were popular twenty-five years ago; then came the
browns a few years later; then buffs and yellows with
white or dark green trimmings; and at the present time
shades of green are much used. In the thickly-settled
village almost any of the above shades if not too bright
and glaring, smoothly put on, are in harmony with the
surroundings, but in the country soft colors of gray,
brown, or buff are more appropriate. White, the typi-
cal color of New England country dwellings, and some
other sections, is too glaring unless heavily set with
trees and shrubbery. While white lead is perhaps the
most durable of paints, it is easily soiled by contact with
trees, or by water running down from the eaves, and
often it costs more to keep a house looking nicely in
white than in some other color,

REMODELLING Oxtp But Lpincs 51

Paint Brushes.

The better the brush and the more carefully it is used
the better the work will be done, but it is not advisable
for the amateur to buy expensive brushes which are used
for a little time and then left without use to harden and
become worthless. The professional, who is using brushes
continually and cares for them in the best manner, finds
the best the cheapest. Ordinary cheap brushes will do
good work for a while and with care may be used for a
considerable time. Before using, brushes should be
soaked in water or oil, to swell the bristles and the
handles so that they will not pull out in using. After
using they should be cleaned of paint as much as possible
by rubbing on a coarse board or stones, and then be sus-
pended in water, bristles down. If a little kerosene is
put in the water it will help keep the brushes from hard-
ening. If very hard and old, a little potash put into the
water will soften up the hardened oil, though perhaps
the bristles may be somewhat softened also and made
less durable.

House Painting.

The professional house-painter will claim that his work
is far superior to that of the amateur, yet with a few
brushes and a little practice in mixing paint and putting
it on, any one at all skilful in the use of tools will be
able to do a good job of painting and often with a large
saving in labor bills. The aim in this work should be to
spread the paint evenly and to fill up all cracks and nail-
holes so that water or air will not penetrate. If there
are many large cracks and nail-holes, after the first coat
has hardened they should be filled up with soft putty
that can be pressed into small openings.

CH AP TER ELT

Buitpinc New Houses

ANY problems confront those who are about

to build a new house and settle in the country.

If the readers have followed the suggestions

in the preceding chapters about looking for a home, and

have found ‘‘just what is wanted’’ or a house that can

be so remodelled as to satisfy the desired conditions,

they are indeed fortunate: But at only thetandeage

been found, they face the problem of building a new
dwelling-house and outbuildings.

Building Associations.

At the prevailing prices of building materials, espe-
cially lumber, new buildings cannot be constructed with-
out more or less ready money. There are, however,
many ways by which those of limited means can build.
In many places there are building associations which
will put up a house after one’s own plans, payment to
be made weekly, monthly, or quarterly, which shall
cover rent, taxes, interest and something on the prin-
cipal with each payment. This is a very good scheme
provided the association is not too grasping and one is
sure of a regular income with which to meet the pay-
ments. Builders and contractors, too, may be found who
build new houses and offer them for sale on easy terms.
These associations and contractors, building extensively
as they do, can buy materials much cheaper than one
building a single house, and therefore can afford to sell

52

Buitpinc New Houses 53

at a reasonable price and yet make a large profit. There
is the advantage in buying a new house just completed
that those who have not made a study of building plans
and specifications can see it in its completeness and
better judge whether or not it is suited to their wants.

A Definite Plan.

The kind of house, the amount of room required, and
every point connected with the undertaking should be
studied and a complete and definite plan adopted. This
plan may be made by a skilled architect, or the mem-
bers of the family may get together and decide what
rooms are needed, the details of construction to be
worked out by a carpenter or builder. It is, as a rule,
more economical to have a plan made by a professional
architect, which will often save more than its cost in
buying material, planning, and doing the work.

Contract vs. Day Labor.

If one putting up a new building has had some experti-
ence and can more or less direct and assist in the work,
building by day labor is often the most satisfactory, but
if he knows little or nothing of such work, it will be best
and cheapest done by a responsible contractor with com-
plete plans and the fullest possible specifications.

THE Most IMPORTANT POINTs.

In building a house of whatever material the follow-
ing points should be most carefully considered:

Location.

For comfort and healthfulness a southern or sunny
exposure is desirable. While for a time during the sum-
mer, a northern and perhaps a shaded exposure may be
most comfortable, unless the sun strikes a building or its
immediate surroundings for a considerable part of each

54 THe Sma.tt Country PLace

day the rooms, especially during wet and cloudy weather,
will become moist and unhealthful. During the winter,
when fires are kept up, the rooms may become dry
enough for health, but there is nothing lke sunshine to
destroy the germs of disease in our dwellings. If pos-
sible select a site where there are pleasant views, a sheet
of water, a winding brook, extensive meadows, hills or
mountains. Some locations will of course afford more of
these beautiful features than others, but none should be
wholly devoid of something of beauty, that we will
want to have before us as much as possible. Unsightly
views or objects may often be avoided in the location
of the building, or be covered or hidden in the arrange-
ment or by after planting of trees. Outbuildings should
be put in the rear yet so as to be conveniently reached
from the house. These should not be in such a condition
as to need hiding, but should be kept neat and tidy and
so decorated with trees, shrubs and vines as to be ob-
jects of beauty. Having the stable and other outbuild-
ings connected with the house by sheds or covered pass-
ageways iS a great convenience in cold and stormy
weather, but the connection should not be of such
heavy construction that it may not be easily pulled
down in case of fire in either end.

The living-rooms should be upon the south where
there is plenty of sunlight and pleasing views. Here the
members of the family spend a large part of their time
and everything possible should be done to make all con-
ditions pleasant and healthful. If there are any rooms
into which the sun does not shine let them be the dining-
room, which is occupied but a short time three times each
day, or the parlor, which may not be—but should be—
opened upon more than “state occasions.”’ We cannot
expect to combine in any one place all of the desirable
features above mentioned.

Burtpinc New Hovses 55

An Abundance of Windows.

Nothing adds so much to the healthfulness of a house
as an abundance of sunshine. At the present price of
glass, and low cost for making sash, glass surfaces will
cost but little if any more than the same surface covered
with wood and plastering and kept painted and papered,
while the glass surface unless broken will cost less to
keep in repair. A space covered with a single thickness
of glass will not be as warm as one lined, papered, and
clapboarded on the outside and plastered and papered
on the inside, but storm windows are comparatively
inexpensive and will last a lifetime if taken off every
spring and stored in a dry place during the summer.

The Water Supply.

As previously urged the water supply is of the utmost
importance. Old wells should be looked upon with sus-
picion, and new ones if made should be located where
no foul matter will run intothem. The supply should be
abundant and continuous, if possible, without the labor
of pumping or carrying a long distance.

HovuseEs oF Woop.

One of the first questions to be settled after deciding
to build a new house is, of what material shall it be—
wood, brick, stone, or cement (concrete)? The present
cost of lumber and other materials makes houses of wood
very expensive, yet there is nothing more satisfactory
than a well located and well built house of wood. It is
warm and dry, and when the sills are carried high upon
a good foundation, with a well ventilated space or cellar
under it, and the outside kept thoroughly painted, and
in repair, such houses may be made to last a century or
more.

56 Tue Smatt Country PLace

If the location is in the country where native lumber
is obtainable, good building material may often be ob-
tained at a much less cost than that from the North or
West, especially if one has teams and can draw it to and
from the mill. Native lumber is generally not as true
and free from knots as that sawn from large old trees
and sorted and graded before it is shipped to the dealers,
yet for sills, posts, lining and roof-boards, lining of
floors, sheathing and floors in stables, etc., is as good
and can be purchased at first hand sometimes at half the
cost.

The Frame.

Lumber for frames may be of chestnut, spruce, pine,
etc., the first especially for sills where there is much
moisture and the others for the frame above the sills.

Cover Boards.

The cheapest cover boards for sides and roof are native
pine or hemlock, the latter only largely obtained from
northern sections, where it grows to perfection. The
shingles most used are. of cedar, of which there are
many grades offered by dealers. The extras and No. i
clear butts are most used for roofs, though special lots
of No. 2 clears may be found with but few knots in
them. and sound and very serviceable. This grade of
shingles is largely used for covering the sides of poultry
houses and other outbuildings. Other materials for roofs
were discussed in the previous chapter, which see, For
corner boards, saddle boards, window casings outside,
spruce and pine are most used, with clapboards of
spruce, and cedar shingles for covering the sides, the
latter being used largely on low modern houses.

Buitpinc New Hovses $7

The Finish Inside.

For window casings and other finish inside many
kinds of wood are used. Of the native northern lumber
extra quality of spruce is sometimes used. White ash is
much used and makes a beautiful and lasting finish in
natural wood colors. Cypress is coming into extensive
use in modern houses of medium cost, and when care-
fully selected most beautiful natural wood finish may be
obtained. Birch, butternut, black walnut, black cherry,
oak, etc., are used either alone or in combination with
others with pleasing effect. Of the native southern
lumber, the cypress, hard pine, tulip wood, magnolia,
sweet gum, etc., makes a very satisfactory finish. When
the finish is to be painted clear pine, cypress, and spruce
are largely used. Window frames and casings and other
inside finish are now made at factories at very reasonable
prices all ready to put up, and also doors, sash and
blinds, thus reducing both the cost and the time it takes
to build. By carefully selecting beautifully marked
boards or those of special colors for the doors, casings,
etc., beautiful effects may be obtained.

Floor Boards.

Most modern floors are made of hard wood to be fin-
ished in natural wood colors, but where they are to be
painted cypress, spruce and pine are used. Boards in
narrow widths used in hard wood floors are much more
even and durable than wide ones, though the narrower
the boards the greater will be the waste and the cost of
labor in laying. Floor boards should be kiln dried and
be laid at once after coming from the kiln. With nicely
fitted flooring any one fairly skilled in the use of tools
may lay a good floor, but if fancy designs and various
colors are worked into them it can only be done with
success by those who can make very exact and close-

58 Tue Smart Country P ace

fitting joints. Of the wood used, hard pine, oak, maple,
birch and black walnut are the most popular. By the
use of several kinds or shades ot these woods very pleas-
ing effects are produced.

Finishing Floors.

Much of the beauty and durability of floors depends
upon how they are finished. The most beautiful and
durable floors are those upon which but little dressing
has been used and that thoroughly rubbed in, filling
the pores yet preserving the natural grain of the wood.

The best substance for filling the pores or grain is
rather thin white shellac rubbed down to a dead finish.
Two or three coats may be needed if the wood is very
porous, like birch. After a thorough rubbing down a
thin coat of wax or oil should be applied. If oil is used
a large amount of drier should be added and the floor
rubbed until the surface is dry and will not soil the hand
when passed over it. Wax should be put on with a
heavy weight that will leave but a very thin and smooth
surface.

STONE, BRICK AND CEMENT HOUSES.

With the price of lumber going higher every year, we
must look about for cheaper material with which to
build. Stone and brick are no cheaper than wood,
owing to the high price of labor. An ordinary laborer
who: becomes a skilled workman after a few weeks and
can work with the trowel or hammer and chisel, de-
mands $4.00 per day for eight hours’ work. This, with
the efforts of the trusts to secure a monoply of all neces-
sities that they may increase prices to enable them to
pay large dividends, will be sure to keep these materials
on a par with wood. This may be said also of steel and
iron, which enter so largely into the construction of
large structures.

Fic. 12—A Brick Hous® In THE CountrRY.

Burtpinc New Hovstes 61

Brick Houses.

Even if brick were available at a more moderate cost,
and labor was reasonable in price, this material seems
out of place in the country and has little to recom-
mend it above wood (Fig. 12).

Stone Houses.

A stone house (Fig. 14) is more in keeping with country
surroundings but is also open to the objection that the
cost of labor first in getting out the stone, and then in
building, makes it almost prohibitive to those of ordi-
nary means. A brick house may be made with a hollow
wall, but a house of ordinary stone must be made solid,
and additional furring and lining inside must be used to
keep it dry and warm. Rustic stone is largely used in
the construction of the foundations and first story of
dwellings and is in keeping with the natural country
surroundings; but this is open to the objection that the
walls must be made thick and a frame or furring be put
inside to keep the house dry and warm. With the in-
creased cost in building material persons of ordinary
means are looking for something cheaper than stone,
brick, or wood, and as a large percentage of the cost of
building is the labor, some system is needed by which
material of low cost may be put together by the owner or
by ordinary labor. This problem seems to be in a fair
way of being solved by

Cement or Concrete Buildings.

A material that is now attracting much attention for
buildings of moderate cost, is Portland cement and
sand. This material is found in many sections of the
country... .It isssold at a very reasonable price and if
trusts are not allowed to obtain a monopoly of the

62 THe Smatt Country Pace

supply it should be even cheaper, and will be largely
used for structures of small or medium size. As stated
above, the cost is low in comparison with other build-
ing materials, and much of the labor of building can be
done by the owner or his regular help if fairly skilled in
the use of tools and such materials. Good brands of

Fic. 13—The Construction of a Solid-Wall Concrete House,
Reinforced by Steel Rods.

Portland cement fresh from the kiln mixed with from _
one to three parts of clean sharp sand will make solid
walls or blocks, practically as durable as brick or cut
stone.

The Solid Wall.

Two methods of construction of cement buildings are
in use—solid walls, and the block system. By the first,
solid walls are made by putting up a frame of plank very
nicely fitted and filling the space with the mixed cement,
sand and stones, raising the frame as each layer of
cement becomes hard until the walls are of the desired
height. Fig. 13 shows the construction of a solid wall

Fic. 14—A Srons CorraGE IN THE COUNTRY.

Buitpinc New Hovses 65

reinforced with steel rods and Fig. 15 a section of a
house with solid walls.

The difficulty of building the walls in this way is that
being porous, moisture and cold readily pass through
and the inner surface can only be made warm and dry
by building up an inner frame or putting up furring upon
which to plaster, leaving an air space between the wall
and the inside surface. In building up walls in:this way
more or less large stones are sometimes laid and the
cement filled in, carefully working it in and about them
so that no air spaces will hold to the plank or stones.

The Block System.

By the block system the cement is put into moulds
of the desired form and size for the various parts of the
building. These blocks may be made to represent cut or
rough stone, the corners, window frames, sills, and caps,
etc., being either plain or ornamented. Air spaces are
obtained by having vertical openings which shall be
continuous from underpinning, or by having the walls
made of double blocks with narrow boards or planks
placed perpendicularly at the joints, thus making an
entirely hollow wall. The latter makes by far the best
non-conducting wall and the blocks are less complicated
in structure, though double the number are required in
the building. One of the advantages of the block system
is that a few blocks may be made at a time as one has
the leisure, and are just as good, possibly better, if one
is a year in making enough for a house. Fig. 16 illus-
trates a house made of concrete blocks, and Fig. 17 a
machine by which the blocks are made.

The Cement and Sand.

Good work cannot be made of cement more than six
months old as it is ordinarily kept, but if it has been
5

66 THe Smart Country PLace

= t .
i ne
| e}

SECOND HR |
|

woo

BN
sa
ye
ita}
CENENT i
ee ae:
ee
SUSPENDED He .
i aati ap:

woopD

EIROT hes

ooo OR ©
CEMErtY.

:
ewe

»

aS

Slee Sa See
fs re ee
by

'
~ s
e-?

o.° ¢ pec ser

-*
~

Fic. 15—Section of a Concrete Fire-Proof House with Solid Walls
Reinforced with Steel Rods,

Buitpinc New Houses 67

stored in a perfectly dry place and at an even’ tem-
perature it may retain its strength a much longer time.
The best brands only should be used, especially for the
blocks and trimmings, and if possible its quality and
strength should be tested before using.

The sand used should be clean and sharp. Freedom
from organic matter may be tested by putting a small
quantity in a pail with clean water, giving it a rapid

Fic. 16—A Cement Concrete House, made of Hollow Blocks.

stirring, and pouring off quickly, the organic matter will
soon settle on the bottom of the vessel into which it is
poured. The sharpness of the sand may be determined
by examining its particles with a magnifying glass.
ihe coarser the sand, if of an, even grade, the better.
Fine broken stone when it can be obtained is better
than sand. Very. coarse sand, gravel or broken stone
should also be used with the fine sand and cement.

68 THe Smart Country Prace

Mixing Cement and Sand.

In making a solid wall or blocks of cement it should
be with the idea that they are to last for centuries, but
this cannot be unless cement of the best quality is used
and thoroughly mixed with the best of sand. In mix-
ing, a layer of sand (two, three or four parts) is spread out

Fic. 17—A Machine for Making Hollow Concrete Blocks.

evenly on the bottom of the mortar-bed; one part of
cement is spread evenly over it, and then the mass is
shovelled over back and forth until thoroughly mixed,
when water is added and the mass is given another
thorough mixing. For making solid walls or laying up
rustic stone, cement should be as soft as it can be made
to hold to the stones and should be used as soon as made.
For the moulds, what is called the dry mixture is most

Buitpinc New Hovses 69

used—just water enough to thoroughly mix the sand
and cement; and when tamped into the mould a little
water will stand on the surface. When.the cement in
the mould is sufficiently set the mould is unlocked, the
block carefully taken out and placed in the shade or a
moist room and sprinkled a few times until thoroughly
hard. Soft cement may be poured into the mould and
when fully set—in a day or two—it is taken out and the
mould refilled. This, however, is a slow process.

Concrete walls, either solid or of hollow blocks, are
very desirable for stables and other outbuildings, espe-
cially for the foundation, basement, and first story,
where there is a large amount of moisture, which would
rot a building made of wood. It makes very clean and
serviceable floors for stables, carriage and tool rooms.
Sidewalks are now largely made of this material, some
cities having miles of it that will apparently be as durable
as cut stone. This material is very valuable for floors of
outhouses, cellars, wood-sheds, etc.

HEATING THE CouNTRY HOUSE.

Country houses are generally more difficult and more
expensive to heat than those in thickly settled villages
or towns, in part perhaps because of their cheap con-
struction, but more because of their exposure. A house
built of good material, closely fitted, and lined with
paper over the entire covered surface, ought not to be
difficult or unusually expensive to heat unless fully
exposed to prevailing winds. One of the most important
points to be considered in the plan of the house is the
method of heating.

Wood Fires.
In the country where wood is abundant and cheap the
year’s supply may often be obtained by thinning out
the poor and surplus growth from the wood-lot, and if

70 Tue Smatt Country Pace

one has sufficient area the supply can be cut and the
lot improved with each yearly cutting. The heat from
wood is less lasting than that from coal, and the work of
attending the fires much greater. Where wood is used
it should be stored where it may be easily reached.
Wood must be burned in close stoves to be economical
of heat, but in such stoves—airtights—the oxygen of the
air is quickly exhausted unless there is adequate ven-
tilation through a fire-place or open spaces into the
chimney near the floor. Large cast-iron airtight stoves
are now made in which may be burned large sticks of
one or two cuts which will last a long time and keep up
an even heat. Coal stoves for heating living-rooms
are open to some of the objections urged against the
wood stove, but they take up less space and the heat is
more even. Where one must buy wood its cost, includ-
ing cutting up for the stove, will in most localities be
equal that of coal.

Furnace Heat.

A large amount of labor is required to keep stoves
running in several rooms of a house and the consequent _
dirt and dust is very annoying. In the more icem-
fortable modern country houses we now find the heating
done by one large furnace or boiler in the cellar or base-
ment. By this method only one fire is kept up, and
where the coal or wood is stored close to the furnace
little or no more work will be required to run it than
would a single stove in the rooms above, where all
of the fuel is carried up and the ashes taken out every
day. With tight floors and well-fitted registers and
pipes all the dust and dirt are kept from the rooms
above.

Buttpinc New Hovses 71

THREE SYSTEMS OF HEATING—Hort AIR, Hor
WATER, AND STEAM.

Heated air passing directly from outdoors to the
rooms to be warmed is the ideal heat if it is not passed
over a too hot surface which burns the air as in the ordi-
nary hot-air furnace. The indirect hot-air heat is pro-
duced by passing cold air from outside over surfaces
of hot water or steam-heated pipes, and is not open to
the objection of the ordinary hot-air furnace, but the
cost of heating by this method is much greater. An-
other objection to a hot-air furnace is that we cannot
always direct the heat where it is most needed under all
conditions of weather.

Hot-Water Heat.

Heated water distributed through small pipes to
radiators or stacks in the rooms to be heated gives a
very economical and pleasant heat. It can be carried
to the exact point where needed and little or much heat
may be produced, according to the extent of radiating
surface or the temperature of the water. Two kinds of
boilers are used for water heating—the wrought-iron,
with tubes, and the cast-iron boilers of many different
forms. The wrought-iron boiler is generally considered
the most economical of heat while new and if kept clean,
but in moist cellars scales of rust soon form on the
inner surface under which are air-spaces that keep the
heat from coming in contact with the inner or water
surface of the boiler, and after a few years the boiler will
need renewing.

Cast-iron boilers may be used with less risk in wet
cellars, as the surface does not rust in scales and the
heat will pass through the rusted iron almost as readily
as if it were new.

72 THe SmMaLtt Country PLace

Most of the modern cast-iron boilers used for house
and greenhouse heating are made in sections, so that a
small number of sections are used for small buildings
and more are added for larger ones. Another advantage
claimed for sectional boilers is that if one section cracks
or is in any way defective it can be replaced without
buying an entire new boiler.

Steam Heat.

Where a large amount of heat is required steam is,
however, very satisfactory. If a small amount of heat
is needed it can be obtained only by running steam
through a small number of pipes. No heat can be
circulated in the pipes until the water gets above 212°,
and all heat is lost when it falls below this. The cost
of piping for steam heat is less than that for hot water.

With steam and hot-water heating no provision is
generally made for introducing fresh air into the rooms.
But if the building is loosely built or ventilation is pro-
vided for by an opening into the chimney near the
floor, the foul air will be rapidly replaced by that from
outside.

CHAPTER DV

THe DecoraTION OF Home Grounps

‘“‘ Be it ever so humble
There’s no place like home.”’

HE more of beauty and comfort there is about
the home the better one can stand the trials of
life, the more enthusiasm and energy one can

put into the work of getting a living and caring for
the loved ones in the home, and helping those about
him.

Preserve all Naturally Beautiful Features.

There are very few homes about which there are not
more or less attractive features. All of these should be
studied carefully and nothing be destroyed or changed
without good reasons. The rocks, trees, shrubs, vines,
woods in the immediate surroundings of one’s own place,
and the distant views of hills, meadows, or water, should
be kept distinctly in mind in all the work of changing
and improving or planting, so that none be covered up
or destroyed. If there are unsightly objects near we
must study how not to expose them to view or to hide
them if conspicuous. We should preserve and improve
the natural growth of trees and not cut one down with-
out due consideration. It takes a long time to grow
_ newly-planted trees to the size to afford shade or pro-
duce much of beauty, and we should make the most of
any already standing. It is generally the case that
trees growing naturally along the roadside, in the hedge-

1S

Fp Tue Smartt Country Prace

rows or other neglected places, are well established in
good soil; and with a little care, a little manure, fertil-
izer or mulch during the dry weather of summer, they
will start into a most vigorous growth and reach ma-
turity much quicker than those transplanted from other
places. Trees under these conditions are often of very
imperfect shape and may require heroic treatment to
put them into condition for ornamental uses. When
trees are srowing close together the
branches are set very high om ame
trunk, thus making it difficult to pro-
duce a low headed, well formed tree.
This’ is overcome by pruting aauum
Fig. 18. Ifa close growth in the form
of a grove is not desired, we must thin
out the poorest, leaving such as may
be-desired, and by cutting back the
top, as here illustrated, -sometimes
with small trees to a bean pole con-
dition, start a new head at the desired
héieht. Larger -ttees” witha sevems
maim branchés may ‘be ‘treated! aie
similar manner, cutting these branches
———— back to stubs a foot or more in length,

==
~

Frc. 18—A Tall Young from which new branches will soon
Reo ede (stare After cutting back in9"7iis
makeit Branch Low. anner the ends of. the cuts should

be covered with paint to prevent decay. When the

new sprouts begin to grow from the top of the pole,
or the stubs, they should be carefully examined and
the ends of all not needed to form a good head—three
or four from each top or stub—pinched back so as to
force the growth where it is desired. There should be
one central shoot or leader and three or four side branches
well distributed on all sides of the top, and thus a well-

DecoRATION OF Home GrounpDs 75

formed head or top is established. If these shoots grow
close together or all upon one side the top will soon
break or split down and the tree be ruined. Deciduous
trees only can be treated in this way. Evergreens do
not readily send out side shoots when the branches are
all removed, but if the lower branches are fairly good
they may be improved by cutting back the leader (Figs.
19 and 20), thus forcing growth into those that remain.

Fic. 19—A Norway Spruce with the Fic. 20—The Result of Cutting Off
Leading Shoot Cut Off to Force the Leading Shoot.
Growth into the Lower Branches.

Evergreens with long bare trunks are not considered as
beautiful as those with the lower branches sweeping the
ground, but they possess a kind of beauty of their own
and in the grove the removal of the lower branches
Meepies .a matter of necessity to let im the light
and air.

Trees that have been planted by the roadside but are
now in bad condition from neglect may be improved by
the method suggested for those of natural growth.

76 Tue Smart Country Prace

Trees which have been allowed to grow two main leaders,
. and are beginning
to. split .a tea
fork, should bé at-
tended ‘to at onike
and bolts with large
nuts or washers put
through ~andeeaae

a, eee

crack drawn close
together, when in,
a few years) tie
wound will be
healed over, cover-
ine bolt, head amd
all. Fig. 21 shows
the result that
will come to trees

with forked main
Fic. 21—Forked Branch of Tree Broken Down
by Ice, Repaired and Supported by Rod. branches.

Time for Pruning.

Most trees may be pruned at any time when the leaves
are off, but those that flow sap freely—the walnuts,
maples, birches—had better be pruned late in the fall
or in the spring after the buds begin to swell. Ever-
greens may be pruned at any time without serious
injury except when frozen, at which time the wound is
rough and broken and does not heal as readily as when
pruned in early summer. If pruned late in the summer
there will be little healing growth formed before winter
and the wound will grow larger by freezing and thawing.
All wounds upon deciduous trees should be covered at
once with a thick coat of linseed oil paint, shellac, or
coal tar. The first is most easily obtained and applied
and is as good a preservative as either of the others. A

Decoration or Home Grounps vi

second coat should be applied to large wounds after the
first has hardened. Evergreens exude a pitch or resin-
ous covering where injured and need not be so protected.

Planting New Trees.

A greater part of the decorating about country places
is done by setting out new trees and shrubs. Most of
these come from nurseries and are set in stiff, formal
rows along the streets and avenues, or along boundary
lines. Planted: along the roadside, they afford shade
mom the hot sun im
one summer and in
some places shelter
from driving wind
Etorms. -An- avenue
of trees leading from
the road to a dwel-
ling some distance
back is also a thing ’
of beauty, but one of
rather formal charac-
ter, though desirable
unless some beautiful
view is cut off by it.
More pleasing effects Fic. 22—A Perfect Purple Beech Tree, the

F result of Good Soil, a Northern Exposure,
mav be produced if and Plenty of Room.

the trees are arranged more or less in groups, in some
places covering up undesirable objects or views and in
others enhancing the beauty of objects by a setting of
striking foliage. Large fine specimen trees standing
near the house as in Fig. 22, should be most carefully
preserved. Very old trees, often-with decayed trunks,
if still vigorous, may be preserved a long time by dig-
ging out the dead loose centres, painting with linseed
oil paint, and then filling with concrete.

78 Tue SMALL Country Pace

Some of the Best Street or Avenue Trees.

Among the most largely and easily grown street or
avenue trees the elm may be ranked as the best. Its
high arching branches afford an abundant shade and yet
allow a free circulation of air under them. The sugar
maple, red and white or silver maple, tulip tree, red and
pin oak, cucumber magnolia, all make good street or
avenue trees but the branches should be started high
that they may not interfere with travel as they increase
in size.

In many states the street planting is in the hands of
one individual, known as the Tree Warden, and that
functionary assumes all the work of planting and caring
for street trees. While this may give more uniform
results, it will generally be after one idea, one plan, with
little or no variety, and it takes away all interest in such
work by the abutter, therefore little street decorating
will be done under such conditions except at the public
expense. But the spirit of commercialism and public
ownership should not suppress all sense of individual
responsibility for the public good. A large majority of
the beautiful avenues and attractive roadsides which
make certain cities, towns and villages noted for their
beauty, was largely the work of public-spirited indi-
viduals who planted for the love of the work and for
posterity.

Home Decorations.

The subject of decorating home grounds except in a
moderate way is one too large for the limits of this vol-
ume, and for more extended information the reader is
referred to the author’s work on “‘ Landscape Gardening
as Applied to Home Decoration,’’ and other popular
works upon this subject.

DecorATION OF Home GrounpDs 79

Grading About the Buildings.

The first consideration after a new house has been
built is the grading of the ground about it and locating
such walks and drives as are needed. In this work aim
should be to have an even, smooth grade away from the
buildings, so that the surface water may run off quickly
and not settle into the ground about the foundation,
provision being made for carrying the roof water away
in concrete or paved gutters or underground drains to
an outlet some distance away. Care must be taken that
no basins are formed where the water will stand during
heavy rains or in the winter.

There should be no unpaved gutters along the roads or
walks to catch the water and thus cause washouts. In
grading, the coarse and poor material had best be put
on first and then a top dressing of good loam not less
than ten inches in thickness. A poor soil may be so
improved that it will grow good trees, shrubs and even
grass, by deep spading or plowing and working into it a
large amount of rich manure or fertilizer, but the better
it can be made in the grading the less after work will
be required.

Roads and Walks.

Walks and drives are a necessity for comfort on any
place, and especially upon the farm, where more or less
teams are kept and where a large amount of produce is
to be carried out and supplies brought in. Yet they are
artificial structures, expensive to build and keep in
repair.

Location of Roads and Walks.

The location of roads and walks is a very important
matter. We are planning these conveniences with the
idea of a permanent home, and an unsatisfactory loca-
tion means much inconvenience, loss of time, and hard

So THe Smatt Country PLace

work. As few roads and walks as is possible should be
made, laid out in graceful curves, yet running as directly
from ‘*he entrance to the points of
destination,—the house, barn, or stable,
as may be. Where convenient, the road
and walk from the street to the house
may be combined and
made of one material,
or the walk may be
made of concrete but
occupying only one-fourth or less of
the same foundation with the balance |,
of gravel for the road. This will save fie. 24—Another Plan
space for more lawn and shrubbery, of Drivesana es
etc. Where possible the
drive should come close
up “to the door maigss
used, that all may get
in and out of the house
with comfort in stormy
weather. The arrange-
ment of walks and
drives and manner of
laying them “omiiaie
shown in Figs. 23, 24,

Fic. 23—Location
Drives and Walks.

Fic. 25—How to Lay Out Drives and Walks. 23:
Underdrain the Road-Bed.

A good road cannot be made of poor material, and no
matter what material is used a road will be of little per-
manent value if the soil is saturated with water. In
grading up about the buildings the good soil where the
road is to be made may be taken out and replaced with
stones and very coarse gravel. The amount to be taken
out may depend upon the nature of the soil. If the

Decoration oF Home Grounps 81

loam is deep it may be cheaper to get as much as possible
from this source and replace it with stone or gravel.
The excavation for the road-bed need not be below the
stratum of gravel or hard-pan, though in the latter

pr eer

YY YY
yj YY
Yj
Y, Uf

Fic. 26—Section of a Road with Tile upon Upper Side only.

case one line of tile should be put in at least three and
one-half feet deep, either in the middle or on one side—
the upper side, if upon a side hill, as in Fig. 26. On
very wet land nearly level two lines of tile may be
needed, as shown in Fig. 27.

12 eS Sone. Vif f/f, Yj
f SSO0°C0 GYYWwJYypvv
ss TJ Mf

Y
V4,

,
/

YY

Fia. 27—Section of a Road with Drain Tile on Both Sides.

Coarse gravel with the larger stones raked into the
bottom of the road-bed will make a good road if under-
drained. Broken stone if available will make a much
more permanent road than gravel, though it is very ex-
pensive and requires a heavy steam roller to compact
the different layers of stone. If neither of the above
materials comes within the means of the owner, a well-
rounded gravel road on top of the soil will serve a good
purpose in dry weather. When there is but little travel
over the road a well-compacted turf will be very satis-
factory. To make a turf road the land is back-furrowed
the desired width and the rounded surface made fine,
mellow, and rich. A liberal amount of lawn-grass mix-

ture is then sown and rolled in with a heavy roller.
6

§2 Tue Smatt Country PLace

After the grass has become well established frequent
rolling and cutting with a lawn-mower will fit it for the
use of anything but heavy teams. Care must be taken
not to have it cut up by heavy teams during the fall and
spring. This is pleasant to walk upon and is as dry as
any walk.except when there is rain or dew upon it. The
surface of a walk should be a little above the level of
the lawn but not enough to cause water to gather upon
the inside of a curve on a hillside and cause washing.
Where well underdrained the surface should be flat but
upon undrained land a slightly rounded surface is
necessary.

To Keep Down the Weeds.

Upon a road or walk surfaced with ordinary unsifted
gravel there will be more or less weeds during the grow-
ing season unless it 1s frequently gone over with a weed-
killer or hoed over with a sharp hoe with a thin blade.
If the surface is dressed with three or four inches of fine
screened gravel or fine broken stone few weeds will start
except in very wet weather.

Concrete Walks and Drives.

When one can afford the expense, concrete walks,
either of cement or asphalt, will be found cheaper in the
end if properly laid, but if improperly made and upon an
undrained foundation, will be little or no better than
one of gravel. The first and most important point in
this work is the foundation. A durable walk or drive
cannot be made on any soil saturated with moisture in
freezing weather. Such soils must be underdrained with
either land or Akron tile, the latter being much better
where the soil is liable to freeze about it. A stone drain
is sometimes used, but the writer has never seen such a
drain that did not fill up within a few years.

DecoraTION OF Home Grounps 83

The directions for mixing cement concrete are the
same as for concrete buildings which was described on
page 68. Upon a steep slope the surface of the concrete
should be ribbed to prevent slipping or the surface
covered with boards in icy weather. For the foundation
of a cement concrete walk a dry mixture of from
four to six parts of sand and course gravel to one
of cement, from four to six inches thick, is thoroughly
tamped so as to be smooth and level. Then a layer
of one to two inches of concrete, two or three
Pomc. ol sand: 10, one Of ) cement, ‘thim mixed; so
aoe to work easily, is spread over the surface and
made smooth. To prevent the concrete from cracking
irregularly by the action of frost from below, it is some-
times made in squares or sections with a thin board
between the sections to take up the contraction and ex-
pansion. After laying cement concrete it should be kept
moist until fully set by covering with hay, straw, mats
or even sawdust, or by sprinkling two or three times.

With tar concrete the first layer from four to six inches
thick of coarse stones from one to four inches in diameter
must be made solid by tamping or rolling as for the
foundation of cement concrete, as well as the two suc-
ceeding layers of small stones. The last layer is of fine
clean sand and hot tar, thoroughly saturated and mixed,
heavily rolled and then covered with fine dry sand until
somewhat hardened. Concrete walks have the advan-
tage that they may be easily kept clean in summer or
winter and no weeds will grow upon them, but they are
often slippery in icy weather and reflect the heat during
the summer.

Screen the Walks and Drives With Shrubbery.

Where walks and drives are wide and of considerable
length they should in part at least be covered from view

84 Tue Smartt Country PLace

by grouping masses of shrubs along the border. These
are to be placed so as to screén the walks from view
from the principal windows of the house, from the bal-
cony, veranda or bay windows, or from the roadway in
front of the house. If the place is small these groups
of shrubbery must be small, in some cases only a single
line of plants. Even hardy perennials will take off
some of the sterile appearance of this stretch of bare
soil in the midst of the living green of the lawn.

Planting Trees and Shrubs.

With the new house, the outside decorations are yet
to be grown, except what may by chance have been pre-
served from the roadside or hedge-rows, the treatment
of which has been discussed on preceding pages. A
home without more or less trees about the buildings and
grounds is a forlorn place, exposed to the full heat of
the sun in summer and storms and winds in the win-
ter. While newly planted trees and shrubs appear to
grow slowly to those waiting for their grateful shade it
is but a comparatively short time before they will give
an abundance of shade and shelter if planted at the
earliest possible time.

WHERE TO OBTAIN ORNAMENTAL TREES
AND SHRUBS.

No country in the world is richer in ornamental trees,
shrubs, and plants than ours, and some of the most
beautiful may be found growing by the roadsides or in
pastures and woods, and may be readily transplanted to
the house grounds. A large majority of the trees which
we see by the roadsides and along the avenues were
taken from these places. Trees of sufficient size for
moving under the above conditions have generally been
growing where found for a considerable time and the

Decoration OF Home Grovunps 87

kinds together. In this work we must always keep in
mind the beauties of the home buildings as seen from
the outside and the home and distant views as seen
from the windows of the principal rooms, the verandas,
Ge porches, see Pig. 1.

Close Planting to be Avoided.

When planting we must keep in mind the size of the
trees and shrubs when fully matured. While young
iaey produce but little-shade’ and shelter and as all
desire immediate effect thick planting is generally done
with the idea that we will cut out all but the few that
will give the desired results when mature. But few will
do this, and all are finally ruined for anything but
grove trees; therefore it is generally better to plant just
what are needed permanently and it is surprising in
what a comparatively short time trees with full root and
air space will reach mature size.

DECIDUOUS AND EVERGREEN TREES.

Deciduous trees are of especial value for summer and
evergreens for winter decorations, the leaves of the
former shutting off the intense heat of the summer sun,
while the latter shield us from the fierce winds of winter
and afford a beautiful contrast with the bare and brown
trunks of the deciduous trees. If one has a considerable
area to plant, groves of mixed varieties are effective,
though an oak, chestnut, or pine grove each has char-
acteristic beauty that would be lost in a mixed grove.
For such groves close planting is desirable, that the
trees may grow tall and straight with branches high
from the ground. Evergreens make the densest shade
in summer, but in winter are rather dark and gloomy.
When the ground is covered with snow an evergreen
grove possesses great beauty.

88 Tue Smatt Country Pace

Fruat Trees as Ornamentals.

Upon grounds of small area as much of beauty may be
produced from fruit trees as from any of the so-called
ornamentals. What can be more ornamental than an
apple, a cherry, peach or plum tree when in bloom, and
again when in fruit? They are things of beauty and a
source of much pleasure, and even of profit. Close plant-
ing of fruit trees should be avoided, as with ornamentals,
for while the flowers and fruit may be just as beautiful
and good up in the tops of close planted trees, stretching
upwards for sunlight, they are beyond our vision and
reach, while a low headed tree is far more beautiful and
useful.

Im thickly-settled localities fruit. trees are oltenmia
source of trouble from the attraction the fruit has for
‘Young America,’ and the cost of guarding against
loss from this and other sources will perhaps make
other ornamental trees more desirable.

List *or TREES.

The following are among the best native trees that
may be transplanted from the roadsides and fields:

WHITE EM, SCARLET Oak.
SLIPPERY ELM, WuiteE Oak,

SUGAR MAPLE, MAGNOLIA,

Rep MAPLE, CATALPA,

SILVER MAPLE, SYCAMORE,

MountTAIN AsH, BEECH,

Basswoop, Hickory (White),
CANOE BIRCH, CULE ER EB:

SwEeET BIRCH, SWEET Guo,

Wuitt Asx, PopLaR (CoTTONWOOD),

RED Oak, KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE.

DecoraTion oF Home Grounps 89

Introduced Trees.
Most of the following trees must be obtained from
nurseries, though sometimes good specimens may be
found by the roadsides or in the fields:

Norway MAPLEs, Honey Locust,
PuRPLE BEECH, SCHWERDLER’S MAPLE,
HorskE CHESTNUT, EUROPEAN LARCH,

VIRGILEA (YELLOW Woob).

Evergreen Trees, Natives.

WHuitTe PINE, CANADA BALSAM,
WHITE SPRUCE, JUNIPER,
ARBOR VIT& (WHITE CEDAR), HEMLOCK.

Evergreen Trees, Introduced.

NORWAY SPRUCE, AUSTRIAN PINE,

CoLORADO BLUE SPRUCE, Swiss PINE,

NORDMAN’S FIR, JAPANESE Cypress (RE-
TINOSPORA).

Ornamental Shrubs.

No matter how small a place one may have, there may
be room for one or more ornamental shrubs or climbing
vines. If the land owned is only large enough for the
buildings and the necessary walks, shrubs may. be
planted in the angles of the buildings or corners of the
fence, and vines may be made to grow over the gate-way,
veranda, or porch, or to cover the walls of the buildings.
On the north side we may plant rhododendrons, or Eng-
lish ivies may be made to cling to the walls, while
nearly any of the list on pp. 94,95 may grow on the south,
east or west if the soil be made rich and mellow. In
some cases the soil may be only the gravel or clay ex-
cavated in making the cellar, or dump material, which
must be removed and replaced by good soil.

go THe Smatt Country Pace

Grouping of Shrubs.

On places of larger area shrubs may be arranged in
masses or groups, by the sides of walks and drives, as a
setting in front of the foundation of the house, and in
the angles, in front of outbuildings, and bank walls,
etc. They are useful in carrying the mass of tree foliage
down to the lawn, and make beautiful low-screens, for
hiding seats, terraces, the vegetable garden, or other
low objects. Where the extent of the grounds will allow,
groups of shrubs of one kind will produce more striking
effects than 1f many varieties are mingled together. Thus _
a group or mass of roses, rhododendrons, hydrangeas,
spireas, etc., may be placed, one in one corner of the
grounds, another in front of the poultry house, another
in front of the steps leading up-to the side doom ane
another in front of a terrace. Then with a well-kept
lawn with a glimpse of the drive or walk here and there
in view, we have a more attractive picture than if in the
groups of shrubbery we could see but one or two in
bloom. Mixed groups are often desirable when close up
to a much frequented veranda, so that something may _
be seen in bloom at all times during the summer. Along
the roadways or on boundary lines between estates a
row or border of shrubs marks the line very prettily.
These may be set in a straight line or hedge or in an
irregular border, wider in some places than in others.
If the groups are large and of many kinds those
growing the largest should be set in the middle or
if the border is against the boundary line, a building,
wall or terrace, the largest should be set next the line
or the object covered, the smaller ones grading dows
to the lawn in front (Fig. 28).

DeEcoRATION OF Home Grounpbs 93

Hedges.

Where the space is narrow or where there are other
formal features upon the grounds, the closely-pruned
hedge may be used with good effect especially on the
boundary line, but is a difficult and expensive thing to
grow and keep in good condition, and often furnishes a
harbor for insects and vermin. A good well-kept hedge
may serve as a fence or high screen, but those plants

Fic. 29—Low Shrubs Planted in Front of Tall Ones.

that naturally grow to trees must be used, like the
honey locust, buckthorn, osage orange, etc. To keep
these trees in a compact dwarf shape they must be
pruned several times during each growing season. More
graceful hedges are made of such plants as roses, spi-
reas, weigelas, lilacs, Japanese Barberry, etc., by a
more open method of pruning, cutting out here and
there old canes so that new shoots can grow that will
give more and larger flowers than the old wood.

Q4 Tue Smartt Country Pace

Pruning Shrubs.

Shrubs that bloom early in the spring, like golden
bell, spirzeas, deutzias, Japanese quince, etc., should not
be much pruned until after blossoming. If pruned be-
fore blooming many of the flower buds are cut away.
Those that bloom later in the season, from June on, like
roses, hydrangea, hibiscus, etc., should -be pruned se-
verely before growth begins. If upon a rosebush we
leave but three or four strong shoots and cut these back
to three or four buds we shall obtain one or more strong
shoots from each cane and upon these there will be a
good number of very perfect flowers, while if the bush is
left unpruned we may get a larger number of smaller
flowers. If we want a large shrub and a display of a
mass of color we would not prune much, but if a fine
display of large perfect flowers is desired, we would |
prune severely and thus cause a limited number of
strong shoots to grow.

List of Shrubs, Native.

Pink AZALEA, CRANBERRY SHRUB,
BARBERRY, WILD RosEs,
CLETHRA, SWEET BRIAR.

List of Shrubs, Introduced.

AZALEA, JAPANESE, EXOCHORDA,
JAPANESE QUINCE, GOLDEN BELL,
DEUTZIA, ROSE OF SHARON
WEIGELA, HYDRANGEA,
SPIRAA, LILAG;

JAPANESE SNOW-BALL, ROSEs,

JAPANESE BARBERRY.

Decoration OF Home Grounps 95

Evergreen Shrubs.

NATIVE. INTRODUCED.
RHODODENDRONS, Boxwoop,
MounrtTAIN LAUREL, ANDROMEDAS.

AMERICAN HOLLY.

CLIMBING SHRUBS OR VINES.

Among the most beautiful and satisfactory ornamen-
tals for country homes are hardy vines (Figs. 30 and 31).

Fic. 30—A Beautiful Shingled Summer House.
A Good Support for Climbing Vines.

There are many varieties, some of which will grow under
almost any condition of soil and exposure, and they do
not need much space. They can be trained along fences,
upon verandas, and the sides of buildings, or be made to
cover arbors and summer-houses. Upon the sides of
buildings they do best if carried away from the walls
ten inches or a foot upon wires or other supports.

96 Tue Smart Country

PLaAce

Pruning Climbers.

Unless climbers are heroically pruned every year the
foliage soon becomes so dense that with close hot

weather mildews and blights oft

Fic. 31—A Rose-Covered Porch.

List of Climbers.

en seriously injure
them. Before growth
begins in the spring
a considerable por-
tion of the old wood
should be cut away
and the space occu-
pied by it given to
vigorous new shoots.

The ‘best. sesulte
come from summer
pruning or pinching.
The endsof the canes
should be kept tied
to their proper sup-
port and all shoots
not needed to cover
the trellis or support
be pinched off, thus
forcing the growth
where most desired.

NATIVE. INTRODUCED.
AMERICAN WOODBINE, CLEMATIS, JACKMAN’S,
ViRGIN’s BOWER (CLEMATIS) CLEMATIS PANICULATA,
BITTER SWEET, HONEYSUCKLE (JAPANESE),
WISTARIA, Koxwa (ACTINIDIA),
CLIMBING ROSEs, JAPANESE WOODBINE.

ARISTOLOCHIA (DUTCHMAN’S PIPE),

GRAPEVINES, ETc.

DecoraTION OF Home Grounpbs 97

REMOVAL OF WALLS AND FENCES.

A great transformation has taken place along our
roadsides and in front of our dwellings in the past
@uureer Of a century, fesulting from the removal of
stone walls and fences. At best these are artificial ob-
jects and sooner or later will become unsightly. They
are unnecessary in most cases and are expensive to
build and keep in repair. They are more or less a har-
bor for weeds, mice; and vermin, and the space occu-
pied by them can be more easily and _ satisfactorily
cared for if the fences are removed. In some cases they
are a necessity for the protection of orchards and fruit
plantations, but often a conspicuous fence acts only as
an incentive for malicious persons to cause trouble. If
a fence is needed one of wire will be more protective
and inconspicuous, and when painted green becomes
ornamental. Fences are of course needed about land
pastured by cattle and horses, but each owner of cattle,
horses, dogs, etc., is expected to keep his stock at home
or within the limits of the street, and is liable for any
damage they may do while driven along the highway.

CHAPTER V
Tue Lawn anp FLowerR GarRDEN

THe LAWN.

| O one feature of the outside decoration of the

home is of so great importance as the lawn.

We may have beautiful buildings, and an
abundance of trees and shrubs upon our grounds, but
if the grass is poor the place has an unkempt appear-
ance. The lawn. is the carpet “er foreground Gapem
which the various objects of beauty or comfort about
the place are arranged.

To make a perfect lawn easily and cheaply one must
have good grass land—z.e., a deep, strong loam, clay
loam, or clay soil, well underdrained. For the most per-
fect growth of lawn grasses the land should be under-
drained, if springy, deeply worked, and made rich with
stable manure or suitable fertilizers.

Time jor Sowing Seed.

Upon rich, moist soil, grass seed may be sown upon the
lawn at any season of the year with good success, but
the spring from April to June, or August and Septem-
ber are perhaps the best times for sowing. If the seed
starts later than September, during the fall it makes
little growth, and the roots not extending deeply dur-
ing the winter, the little plants are heaved out and we
have a poor catch. Then with late fall seeding, unless
the land is well covered with deeply rooted plants, it is
likely to wash on sloping surfaces. The natural seeding

SDE 98

Lawn AND FLoweR GARDEN 99

time for grasses is August and September for early
maturing grasses, and the early spring for seeds that are
scattered late in the fall.

Lawn Grasses.

The best grasses for the lawn are June grass (Ken-
tucky blue grass), and red top, equal parts of each, with
Pique white clover (ro lbs: per acre); forty to fifty
pounds of this mixture will seed an acre. The seed-bed
should be very thoroughly made, working the soil deep
and fine. It should be smoothed and rounded with a
flowing outline and no perfectly level places except for
lawn tennis or croquet grounds. Terraces should be
avoided as artificial, difficult to make, and expensive to
keep in good condition. The surface of a terrace will often
slide down when the frost is coming out of the ground
in the spring, and it soon becomes uneven, while it is
difficult to cut the grass smoothly. A rounded, even
though rather abrupt surface will remain solid, and the
grass may be easily cut with the lawn-mower. Care
must be taken that no basins are formed that will hold
water after heavy rains or during the winter, as the
grass is often killed by a close covering of ice.

Sowing the Seed.

When the soil has been satisfactorily graded and a
seed-bed of fine rich soil made, the seed should be sown
evenly over the whole surface. To ensure even distri-
bution of seed requires some skill, but it can be best
done by the amateur by dividing the seed into two or
three equal lots. Then sow the first lot over the whole
piece one way, and rake in with a long-toothed iron rake
or potato-hook. Then sow the second lot over the whole
surface in the opposite direction, and after raking it in
sow the remainder diagonally One the whole piece. If

i OF

100 Tue Smartt Country PLace

this is done and the soil is not bunched up in raking
the seed in, it will be evenly sown.

If the lawn is shaded with large trees and the ground
full of roots, a mixture of two parts June grass, two
parts Canada blue grass, one red, one sheep’s fescue, one
meadow fescue, one perennial rye grass, and one part of
white clover will cover the surface better than the ordi-
nary mixture given above.

Newly seeded lawns must not be cut with the lawn-
mower until the grass has formed a firm sod. An ordi-
nary grass scythe, sharp and well handled, should be
used the first two or three times the grass is cut, care-
fully raking off all clippings as soon as cut.

After Care of the Lawn.

With proper care a lawn on good soil should improve
with age. Each fall just before the ground freezes a
thin dressing of well-rotted stable manure should be
spread upon the surface and raked sufficiently to work
it down among the roots. Coarse strawy or green ma-
nure, often used, is not necessary; it is unsightly and
offensive both to those in the house and those passing.
Each spring before growth begins a light seeding of the
lawn grass mixture should be scattered over all thin or
bare places, and a little later, when growth has become
well started, an application of nitrate of soda at the rate
of 200 to 300 lbs. per acre, or some good lawn dressing,
will be very useful. Another light sowing of seed and
fertilizer should be applied about the middle or last of
August, that they may be washed down to the grass roots
by the early tall tame:

Weeds in the Lawn.

Annual weeds like “finger grass,’’ etc., are soon
choked out by the above method of seeding and feeding,
but biennial weeds like the dandelion, chiccory, chick-

Lawn AND FLOWER GARDEN 101

weed, money plant, etc., must be dug out with a forked
knife or digging tool. After digging out more grass seed
should be sown over the spaces where they were removed.

Water a Necessity.

It is impossible to make a perfect lawn upon thin
soil without an abundant supply of water especially in
dry times. A little water applied to the surface does
more harm than good in dry time, as it causes the roots
to grow toward the surface and if the dry weather con-
tinues the grass plants are very much weakened. When-
ever water is applied in a dry time it should be run on
in sufficient quantities to wet the lowest roots. A
sprinkler run all night in one spot will not be more than
enough.

Improving Old Lawns.

Many old lawns exposed to the hot sun, exhausted
from want of plant food, or from the feeding roots of
large trees, may be improved without much expense, but
the perfect lawn cannot be expected under such condi-
tions. If the land is clear of roots or other obstructions,
it may be plowed or spaded and renewed as described
for the new lawn. If the land is full of fine roots, with
the large roots several inches below the surface, with a
sharp spade these may be spaded up and shaken out of
the soil, a liberal supply of fine manure worked in and
seeded, when we may have a good lawn for a few years,
after which this process must be repeated. If large
roots come near the surface, the lawn must be improved
by surface dressing. All obstructions that would be in
the way of the lawn-mower should first be removed, any
unevenness of the surface where possible should be
smoothed off, and then all graded up with rich fine soil
into which should be raked a liberal amount of lawn
grass seed.

102 THe Smatt Country PLace

If the surface is fairly level-and June grasses or other
good lawn grasses are already growing, dressing with
manure or fertilizers, seeding liberally fall and spring,
and frequent cutting with the lawn-mower will often
produce avery good lawn. Of the home supply of fer-
tilizers, poultry droppings and wood ashes make an
almost ideal dressing for the lawn.

Lawn-Mowers and Their Care.

With the ordinary grass scythe, well hung and skil-
fully and frequently used, one may keep a lawn in fairly
good condition, but where there is a considerable surface
to go over, the lawn-mower becomes a necessity to keep
a lawn in the best of order. These tools may be pur-
chased at from $4 to $10 each, according to size and
make, and when properly used and cared for may be
made to last a lifetime. The modern lawn-mowers are
made so that as the blades come in contact with the
shoe or “bed knife,’’ the two wear off together and are
thus self-sharpening. If the set screws for adjusting the
shoe and blades are set very nicely and as wear takes
place are slightly turned down, no further sharpening
need be done unless the blades or bed knife are bent or
dulled by striking stones or other hard substances. Much
of the ease of running and cutting with the lawn-mower
depends upon this adjustment and in keeping all parts
cleaned and well oiled. The modern high wheel, ball-
bearing machines run more easily than those of older
patterns, but neither will work easily unless perfectly
adjusted and well oiled.

Flowers Upon The Lawn.

While the flower garden may not add directly to the
support of the family upon the farm, like ornamental
trees and the fruit garden they help brighten many a

Fic. 32—Just CoMING FROM THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Lawn AND FLOowER GARDEN 105

lonely spot and add much of beauty and brightness to
our surroundings. The flower garden may be composed
of a few little plants growing by the cottage door, a
single bed in the lawn in front of the house, a part of the
vegetable garden set aside for flowers, or a large and
pretentious space occupied by many of the pet flowers
of the family, and from which an abundance of blos-
soms may be gathered to decorate the dining-table or
the various rooms of the house when desired, or for sale
(ig. 22).

As with most of the farm and garden crops, much of
the success in flower growing depends upon the nature
and richness of the soil. The land should be well under-
drained if wet, and be made rich by working in fine
stable manure, leaf mould or other organic matter. If
the flower garden or beds are under large trees, much
difficulty will be experienced in preventing their roots
from taking up all the moisture and plant food we may
apply. This can only be prevented by cutting off every
year or two, with a sharp spade, the fine fibrous roots
that work up into the beds, and replacing the soil thus
taken with rich loam and manure. In this way we may
hope to have a good show of annual plants or Dutch
bulbs even under the dense shade of the elm, the most
avaricious feeder of all our ornamental trees.

Wild Flowers Upon The Lawn.

While in the country we find almost everywhere an
abundance of wild flowers, many of the most beautiful
of these are seldom seen, though they may be success-
fully transplanted to our grounds and gardens.

Thus in a rocky, shaded place in a rather moist soil,
or under the shade of trees, we may grow the blood-root
(Sanguinaria), the wake-robins (Trillum), hooded vio-
lets, ferns, etc. Upon rocks in springy soil we will be

106 THe Smartt Country Pace

able to grow columbines (aquilégia), saxifrage, snow-on-
the-mountain, etc.

Native asters (A. cordefolium, A. undulatus), golden-
rods, etc., will grow under avenues of trees, and plants
of these and many other species may be established by
transplanting clumps or by sowing the seeds just before
the ground freezes in the fall. Other species of asters
and golden-rods may be grown in more full exposure.

Native Ferns.—There’ are few plants that aresmene
satisfactory than many of our native ferns where we
have suitable conditions for their growth and where
they can be protected from injury by dogs, cats, and
poultry. They succeed on a northern exposure and in
a moist soil. If the soil is not right it may be easily
made so by removing unfavorable soil and adding
peaty or turfy soil from swamps or meadows and tamp-
ing it firmly in place. Clumps of ferns may be dug in
the fall before the ground freezes and planted, or they
may be set just as they are beginning growth in the
spring. About the only requirements of these plants
during the summer are an abundance of water and not
too full exposure to the sun. Fig. 33 shows a group of
ferns and native shrubs massed with the house for a
background.

Lawn Perennials.

There are many beautiful hardy herbaceous peren-
nials especially adapted to growth upon the lawn,
among which are, peonias, phloxes, day lilies, golden
glow, iris, lily-of-the-valley, hollyhocks, larkspur, yucca,
etc. These may be arranged in groups all of one kind,
or in mixed groups, at various places about the lawn;
in a line along the boundary or the sides of the walks;
in masses by the sides of the steps, in a mass to cover
the foundation of the house, etc. When the space to be

Fic. 33—Native SHruBS AND FERNS, WITH BUILDING FoR BACKGROUND.

Lawn AND FLoweR GARDEN 109

‘planted is small single specimens here and there about
the lawn would be sufficient, and when well established
would grow a long time and often spread to very large
masses. When the space is larger, collections of the
popular perennials will give much pleasure.

Thus a large collection of choice varieties of peonies,
phloxes, iris, etc., would be attractive and might become
a source of some profit. In arranging shrubs and all
kinds of plants upon the lawn it is most satisfactory to
have them around the outsides, leaving as broad an ex-
panse of lawn as possible. The lawn and the groups can
in this way be more easily cared for. The border of the
beds and spaces about each individual tree, shrub or
plant should be cut true and smooth so that the lawn-
mower may cut close up and the‘edges need no trim-
ming with the grass hook or edge shears.

Borders along the boundary line may be often planted
with good effect of mixed perennials, the taller ones like
the golden glow, hollyhock, larkspur, etc., being planted
in the rear and others grading down to the lowest in
front.

Lawn Annuals or Bedding Plants.

Many annuals or tender bedding plants are grown in
beds upon the lawn with good effect. For these the
soil must be prepared as for perennials or shrubs. If
very dry and much exposed to the sun, such plants as
coleus, portulaca, sedums, calendula, cercopsis, lantana,
nasturtium, petunia, oxalis, zinnias, French marigold,
gourds, castor beans, etc., will generally succeed. When
there is more moisture and a deep rich soil a greater
variety may be grown. Such plants as geraniums,
cannas, dahlias, gladiolus, sweet peas, morning-glories,
pansies, forget-me-nots, etc., are especially available.

In a very deep moist soil many kinds of lilies will suc-

110 THe Smatt Country PLace

ceed, though perhaps they will do better in the flower
garden, where the whole space is given up to the cultiva-
tion of flowers. In
growing shrubs or
plants upon thelawn
it must.be. kepiam
mind that we are
trying to grow flow-
ers, grass, and per-
haps shrubs’ aad
trees, and’ *4 jvery,
large amount of
plant food must be
applied to keep up
the soil fertility to
a point where all

Fic. 34—How Peony and other Herbaceous will . havewane ade
Perennial Roots are Divided for Trans-
planting. quate supply.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The flower garden proper is a space set aside entirely
for the growth of flowering plants. In many places it in-
cludes shrubs, but as. the latter are gross feeders it will
be found that herbaceous plants will succeed better by |
themselves. The flower garden may be set off from one
side of the vegetable garden, where some parts may be
cultivated by the horse (Fig. 37).

For the best results the soil should be first made fine
and mellow. The space should be laid out to a definite

“plan, with sufficient. walks to get about among the
plants, and yet the fewer walks we have the more space
there will be for plants. Walks, too, being compacted
and exposed to the sun will carry off the moisture faster
than if it were all a cultivated surface. There is, how-
ever, some advantage in having the garden planned

Pree

Fic. 35—Tue FLowEerR GARDEN; Buss In BLOOM IN THE SPRING.

Lawn AND FLoweR GARDEN 113

with geometrical beds of various sizes, so that plants of
different kinds may be put into beds of a size suitable
for their growth.

If, however, we attempt to arrange our plants ac-
cording to size only, we may mix annuals and peren-
nials in such a manner as to cause much confusion, and
often a great irregularity in the appearance of the beds.
A plan for a flower garden requires a great deal of care-
ful study.

Perennials.

If we arrange all of the perennials in a central border
or long bed we may place the tall ones like hollyhocks,
larkspur, golden glow, boceonia, boltonia, helianthus,
etc., in a line in the middle. If the border is along the
boundary, the tall ones should be placed next the bound-
ary line, with those next in height in front and the smaller
kinds next the walk, so that the tops of all may be in
full view. The special treatment required by peren-
nials, in brief, is to give each kind an abundance of room
at planting and to divide frequently the roots of those
that tend to spread beyond their allotted space. Thus
peonies, iris, golden glow, phloxes, etc., spread so rap-
idly that the soil about them is soon exhausted, and
the plants and flowers make a small growth, when the
clump must be dug up and a small portion of it re-
planted in its place in soil made rich by adding stable
manure or by new soil carted in. Fig. 34 shows the
method of dividing perennial roots like the peony, etc.
The best time for replanting hardy herbaceous peren-
nials is in the early fall, but many of them will succeed
if replanted in the early spring. Lilies require an
especially rich, deep, yet well drained soil. In a wet

soil the bulbs grow small and near the surface, and in a
: |

114 Tue Smart Country Prace

few years run out. These bulbs need frequent trans-
planting, which should be done soon after the flower
stalk turns yellow.

Bienmal Plants.

Many biennial plants like hollyhocks, foxgloves, etc.,
are especially desirable for the home flower garden, and
like many of the perennials may be easily grown from
seeds.

Growing Seedlings.—The seed-bed for all hardy her-
baceous plants should be in a somewhat shaded place,
but not entirely shut off from the sun. The soil should
be firm and mellow, with a good supply of organic mat-
ter iff it from either well deconiposed: manure tecn
mould from the woods, or composted turf. The seeds
should be carefully sown in rows and covered with fine
soil two or three times the thickness of the seeds. Until
the seeds burst through the soil the principal care will
be to see that the surface of the soil does not get dry or
that it is not so wet that the seeds will decay. In case
of hot, dry weather, a shade of burlap stretched on a
frame, lath or brush will prevent too much drying, and
if heavy rains occur raised shutters should be placed
over the bed. A light covering of sifted sphagnum moss
on the surface of the soil will hold the moisture on the
surface with no other shade or covering. After the
seedlings are up much the same kind of care is needed.
If too wet, they will ‘damp off’ (decay); and if too
dry, they will wilt down and grow slowly, or perhaps
die. If the seeds come up thickly they should be thinned
out, so that each one left may have space enough for
full development. With many kinds of plants the little
seedlings may be transplanted to other similar beds
until they reach the desired size for transplanting to
permanent beds. In transplanting in dry weather it is

Lawn anpd Flower Garven Es

best to water the ground thoroughly quite a little time
before transplanting and then shade with boards, lat-
tice or any similar covering for a few days after. If only
small numbers of seedlings are to be transplanted it
may be done late in the afternoon, when they will have
a night in which to recover from the moving.

WINTER PROTECTION FOR HARDY PLANTS.

In northern sections, where there is severe freezing
more or less alternating with thawing weather, some
precautions are needed to protect the plants from
severe injury or even destruction. If this covering is
put on too thick, it will cause heating or fermentation
and the plants are killed. Coarse hay, straw, pine
needles, all make good protection. Coarse strawy ma-
nure, if the garden is not in too conspicuous a place
may be used, and will afford protection and supply
plant-food the following season. All coverings should be
removed before growth begins in the spring and before
extremely warm weather, as any green foliage under
it will be blanched and rendered weak.

Dutch Bulbs.

No class of plants gives so much of beauty for the
time and expense incurred as the hyacinth, tulip, crocus,
and other so-called Dutch bulbs (Fig. 35). Most of the
bulbs used are imported from Holland, whence the name
“Dutch bulb,” and grow but one year, though many of
them will continue under favorable conditions for a great
many years from one planting. Thus the tulip, and the
daffodil in a rich garden, will continue for a decade, or
even a quarter of a century, and produce many good
flowers. The hyacinth and crocus are not as lasting,
but will continue to bloom freely for two or three years
and sometimes longer. They may be planted in the

116 . Tue Smatt: Country PLace

flower garden, but are much more beautiful in beds
upon the lawn with a background of green. The soil
should be made rich, deep and mellow, and the bulbs
planted as early in the fall as they can be obtained.
If the bulbs are to be transplanted from one’s own gar-
den they should be dug as soon as the leaves have turned
yellow and be kept in a cool, dry place until September
or October, when they should be set from four to six
inches deep. For the best effect hyacinths should be
planted from eight to ten inches apart, tulips and nar-
cissus six to eight inches, and crocuses four to six
inches, but may be planted further apart with good re-
sults. At the North, where the ground freezes deeply,
the beds should be covered with from six to ten inches
of coarse stable manure before freezing weather sets in,
thus furnishing protection to the bulbs and enrichment
of the soil. Before growth begins in the spring, the
coarse part of this covering must be removed, or the
flowers may not be able to force their way through,
while the finer portion is left on the surface.to decay.

Window and Veranda Boxes.

While window boxes are more especially adapted to
city and village homes, yet as a portion of the family
even in the country spends a large part of the time in-
doors, these boxes will be enjoyed by them, especially
when the family gather upon the veranda in the even-
ing. The box should be made of good size, with holes
in the bottom for drainage, and filled first with a layer
of small stones, in broken pots, and then with rich soil
made of about one-third decayed turf, one-third well
rotted stable manure, and one-third sand. If in a very
dry place a portion of the sand may be left out. Vines
to run upward or droop over the box and blooming or
foliage plants in the middle will produce beautiful results.

Clear hi. Vial

THe Famity GarDEN

HE principal aim of this volume is to encourage
living in the country, and we hope to show
that with only a small garden a meagre

income may be materially increased, and by hard
work, promptness, and energy, may even be so increased
as to furnish a good support for the family.

The various lines of gardening and farming afford
work for all members of the family; each one, large
and small, may do something for their own support, and
thus taking responsibilities early in life learn habits of
industry and thrift that they would probably not ac-
quire in any other way. Each member of the family,
especially the children, should have their plot where
they may plant what they choose and learn that results
depend upon their personal efforts. The family garden
especially affords an opportunity for the children to
assist in picking the fruit, gathering vegetables, pulling
weeds, and assisting in many other ways.

The family garden proper, however, may be consid-
ered as an additional source of income and comfort of
living in the country, and not of a large income in cash,
though a small area well cared for will often yield a
considerable income from surplus not needed for family
use. In succeeding chapters the details of the work of
caring for fruits and vegetables are given in full, with
the tools needed and how to protect the crops from
insects and fungous pests.

117

118 Tue Smatt Country Pace

The family garden may consist of a very small area,
only a bed of strawberries, a few currant bushes, rasp-
berries, blackberries, two or three grapevines, an apple
tree or two, a few radishes, lettuce, or other vegetable
plants, or it may extend to a much larger area.

Soil and Exposure.

In but few cases can we expect the soil and exposure
to be the best for a large variety of garden crops, though
fair success may be expected in any ordinarily good soil
if it is made rich with stable manure or fertilizer. On
the north side of buildings where the sun strikes only in
the morning and afternoon very few crops will grow.
We may grow radishes, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflowers,
dandelions, raspberries and blackberries, and possibly
apples, but the vegetables and fruits that require more
heat, like the cucumber, melon, corn; pepper, toma-
toes, peaches, grapes, etc., must be planted in warm,
sheltered places. In open, full exposure to sunlight and
air, a greater variety of iruits or vegetables muayeec
srown than if sheltered, though the degree of success
with different crops will depend more or less upon
whether this exposure is northerly or southerly.

Mixed Plantings.

Large and small fruits and vegetables may be grown
readily on the same ground. The large tree fruits may
be set wide apart, with the smaller ones in between, the
bush fruits in between these in rows, and the vegetables
in rows between the latter. If land is abundant and the
different kinds of crops can be grown near, so as to be
under the eye at all times, these three groups will do
better if planted by themselves, that special treatment of
fertilizers, cultivation, and spraying may be given to one
without applying to all.

THe Famity GARDEN 119

In gardens of small size, however, this cannot well be
done. Frequently the family garden is a continuation
of the lawn or runs up close to the buildings so that
such a division would be impossible. Fig. 36 shows a
home lot of one acre, where only about one-third of an
acre is available for the family garden. In this plan,
the west boundary is
utilized for growing
peach trees and currant
bushes, and the south
fie for, cherry. trees.
The north end of nearly
one-third of an acre
is devoted to apples,
pears, plums, raspber-
ries, blackberries, and
strawberries and vege-
eames. AS a partial
screen of the garden
from the house a line
of grapevines is planted
south of the garden to be trained to a high wire trellis.
Grapevines, too, may be trained to the south side of the
house and stable.

In the plan of the combined garden (Fig. 37) of one
acre—218 x 200 feet—the apple trees are set fifty feet
apart in four rows, with a row of pear trees twenty-five
feet apart between the first and second rows, and
peaches, plums, or cherries between the third and fourth
rows. Raspberries, blackberries and strawberries are to
be set in rows between the second and third rows, or
between pears and apples, leaving the other spaces for
vegetables. Currant and gooseberry bushes may be set
in the line of the apple or other large trees, as they are
the least injured by shade. The first row of apple trees

SUS PUCr rics
u
= OL =
bg

x

218 Ft.

Xx

~y
~~
~
3
=
3
o
S
2
S
~n
S
~~
1)
S
&

o> > Ca

x:

Fic. 36—Plan of Garden and Grounds.

120 THe Smatt Country Peace

may be set nearer the north and east lines, thus making
a clear space on the west of from thirty-five to fifty feet,
and on the south of from forty to sixty feet, for small
fruits or vegetables. The latter also can be grown be-
tween all of the trees for at least ten to fifteen years, or
until the trees begin to shade the whole ground. Along
the north end may be planted grapevines, asparagus,
rhubarb, etc., or the rows of vegetables or small fruit
crops may be extended down to the line, leaving only

N 200 Ft.

Apples

Peaches and

O}tl| | Pluns
Bike) es
& <0 io Pears
v — Saaes
. ~~ ae] ! =e
& = an S @) a = = (ory
&9 & ara > é ae s & RE 7 E
= aS ” ies Currants
= 12) !
Ww Ca e) :
Se o>
&3 0 &D QS

Flower Garden

Hot Beds

Fic. 37—Plan of a Garden of Fruit, Flowers and Vegetables.

space enough to turn the horse in cultivating. At the
south end the wide space may be devoted to flowers, a
few hot-beds may be located, and in one corner a small
tool house, in which to keep the tools where they can
be easily gotten at when wanted, would be convenient.
Fig. 38 represents the same area, as Fig. 39, one acre
435 x 100 feet —-with trees and vegetables on the east
side, the small fruits in a group in the middle and veg-
etables again on the west side. Other plans might be
made giving more space to trees or vegetables or small

THe Famity GARDEN 121

fruits as may be desired, but about the following dis-
tances should be observed in planting. Fig. 39 illus-
iapes a larger mixed garden of fruits and vegetables.
On the left is a large asparagus patch, and on the
right, plum trees and currant bushes, while in the
middle are turnips, beets, and carrots, all in long rows
so that the work of cultivating can be done largely by
the horse. N 100 Ft.

Many experience difficulty in |
growing vegetables among trees,
but planted at the distance
given on the above plan it will
be many years before the trees
will give shade enough to injure

~ Apple
& | Peach
cer; Pear
Plum

TSA SSS

Grape Vines

Currants

Y
4

Small Fruits

continued use of large quanti-
ties of stable manure alone often
results in a sour and unhealthful
condition of the soil that must
ie germedied: ‘by the use or lime>'!p.4-ac- Siswor 4 Gatien oF
(air slacked), hard wood ashes, Fruit and Vegetables.

or slag phosphate, once in three to five years.

To supplement and make stable manure a complete
fertilizer, sulphate of potash and slag phosphate—twenty-
five to thirty-five pounds of the former to fifty to seventy
pounds of the latter—may be added to each cord of
manure. This may be mixed with the manure before
spreading or be sown upon the land before the manure is
worked in. Land among fruit trees should not be heav-
ily manured unless the trees are bearing a heavy crop of
fruit or the ground under them is closely occupied with
other crops. One of the most common causes of failure

°

x S x
these crops, and by the rotation : 080) =
of crops or change of fertilizer : 2 3
crops should succeed and trees = Sila
be kept in good condition. The 3 o &| *

x

°

122 Tue Smatt Country Pace

of fruit trees grown with garden crops is that the trees
are abnormally forced and the soil is quickly exhausted
by both crops, and for a time they are starved or the
moisture is all taken out of the land by the two crops.
If crops are grown under trees, the soil should be culti-
vated frequently to let in sunlight and air and thus keep
in the moisture.

All kinds of fruits and vegetables are grown in the
family garden, while in the commercial garden—market

Fic. 39—Mixed Garden and Farm Crops.

garden—only a few kinds are grown and but a few va-
rieties of each kind that are in demand in the markets
where they are to be sold. We often get much pleasure
from testing new fruits and vegetables, and new varie-
ties of old ones, as they come out, but in nine cases in
ten the new ones will be of less value than the old stand-
ards. The work of testing new varieties we should leave
to the experiment stations, which are well equipped for
the work.

Tue Famity GarpDen 123

Fruit Trees in Turf.

The small fruits and vegetables must be cultivated,
but many of the fruit trees may be in turf. Thus along
the boundary lines, or next the street, cherry trees will
grow to perfection if a little fertilizing material is put
about them each year. The apple, pear and peach trees
may be made to grow in any soil that will produce a good
turf. Under this condition at planting a large hole must
be dug and the tree carefully planted, with fine mellow
soil packed firmly about the roots. A space about each
tree from four to six feet in diameter should be spaded
up and kept fine and mellow during the summer, or the
same end may be obtained—~.e., retaining the moisture
in the soil—by a mulch of coarse strawy manure, old
hay, straw, or other organic matter, spread from three
_ to six inches deep over the space as far as the branches
spread. No crops of grass should be allowed to mature
on land occupied by the trees, but be cut two or three
times each season and allowed to lie upon the ground
under the trees. If this is too conspicuous it may be
raked up and fine, well rotted manure be raked in under
the trees two or three times each summer. In growing
fruit trees of any kind it must be borne in mind that un-
less they are liberally fed, the large amount of growth
of root, stem, leaf and fruit will soon exhaust the soil of
most of its plant food. If the end shoots of apple, pear,
cherry and plum trees do not make a growth of from six
inches to two feet the trees are not in condition to pro-
duce large crops of choice fruits. One needs to give fruit
trees on the lawn more care as to beauty of form than
if they were in an orchard, and while the trees are
young they should be put into perfect shape by pinch-
ing the ends of all shoots that are growing outside the
outline prescribed and cutting out any branches that are

124 THe Smart Country Pace

crowding or resting upon others. For the general care
of fruit trees, small fruits, and vegetables, see Chap.
VII, on commercial fruit and vegetable growing.

CULTIVATION OF THE FAMILY GARDEN.

In the accompanying plans all crops are arranged in
rows, so that cultivation may be done by the horse.
Even if one has no family horse the hire of one for a few

BS

Fria. 40—The Author’s ‘*‘ Weed-Killer.”’” Note the Wheel Hoe,
Triangular Hoe, Rakes of Two Widths.
hours when needed will be found profitable and will
save much time and hard hand work. In the very small
garden (Fig. 36), when the rows are short, the hand
wheel-cultivator (Fig. 40), will be found of great assist-
ance. There are many kinds of these tools, most of them
combined with the seed drill, all of which will do more
or less good work. The one shown in the above picture
of the author’s “‘ weed-killer’’ (Fig. 40) has the advantage
that the high wheel and long handles enable the operator

Tue Famity GARDEN 5

to stand erect and force the tool along by simply leaning
the body forward, and it runs more easily than those
with small wheels. With one of these tools one can do
almost as good and as much work as the horse, and it
would be much more quickly and better done than by
hand. Many kinds of tools and attachments come with
each cultivator—fine teeth, thin blades for shaving off
the weeds, plow blades for hilling, etc., which are
interchangeable and may be quickly changed.

The triangular hoe shown in the picture (Fig. 41) is
unlike the common or “‘sunnyside’’ hoe in the market, in
that it is made from the common thin-bladed corn hoe
with a nine or
ten inch blade
gmotit; three
inches wide,the
back or curved Fic. 41—The Triangular Hoe ; How Made.
part being cut off as shown in the cut, with a sharp
file or cold chisel. This makes a long cutting edge
for shaving of the little weeds on the surface, with
long, slender points that work in among closely planted
crops, and stirs the soil more easily and deeply than the
common square hoe generally used. The best time for
killing weeds is just as they are breaking through the
ground, and in a light soil this may be done quickly with
the common garden rake between the rows and a smail
one with four or six teeth to work in and among the hills.
With the wheel hand-cultivator, the ‘‘ weed-killer’’ hoe,
and rakes of two sizes, a large area of garden surface may
be kept free from weeds and the soil light and mellow.

Summer Fertilization.

It is said that the Japanese are the most skilful people
in the world in the use of fertilizer. They utilize all pos-
sible fertilizing materials and apply frequently, working

126 Tue Smatt Country Pace

it into the surface close to the roots, and in our garden
work we may gain much by following their methods. If
during any part of the season our crops are not growing
as we would have them, a little nitrate of soda, poultry
dropping, or other quickly soluble fertilizer, scattered
close up to the rows and worked in with the rake or
hand-cultivator, will cause a great improvement. These
fertilizers, however, should not be applied late in the
season, as they might cause late and immature growth,
like unripe onions, coarse squashes, etc.

Cold Frames and Hot-Beds.

While these structures are more or less used in all
kinds of garden work, they are especially useful in the
family garden. When properly made and _ skilfully
managed a very small area covered with glass may be
made to produce a large amount of garden produce
out of season and extend the season of supply at both
ends (Fig. 77).

For the best results preparation should be made in
the fall by excavating a space from one to two feet deep,
six feet wide, and the length of the number of sash to be
used, especiallv at the North, where the ground freezes
deeply. This space is filled with leaves, and when it is
desired to start the beds in the spring the frames are
adjusted and the sash, mats and shutters put on. After
the bed is well warmed up by the sun’s heat, the leaves
are thrown out and heating manure put in their place.
The manure for heating should be fresh and unfer-
mented and be thrown into a large rounded pile in a
cellar or shed, where it freezes very little or not at all.
When well warmed up, and steaming vigorously, the
pile is thrown over and thoroughly mixed and left to
heat again. When this gets decidedly hot it is put into
the hot-bed from six inches to two feet deep, according

Tue Famiry GARDEN ear

to the season and the crops to be grown. In the middle
of winter the full two feet will be needed, while in April
only a little will suffice. On top of this manure,
which must be trodden firmly, from four to six inches of
fine rich soil should be placed to within ten inches to
one foot of the glass. A thermometer should be placed
in the heating material and when it has reached about
100° and receded to 80° or go°, seeds of tomatoes, pep-
pers, egg-plants, cucumbers, corn, etc., may be sown,
and-when it is down to 70° or 80°, seeds of radishes, cab-
bage, cauliflower, beets, onions, etc.

Hot-beds are used for forcing lettuce, radishes, etc.,
and starting plants of cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower,
beets, tomatoes, and onions, to be transplanted into the
open ground. Many other plants besides those men-
tioned above may be forced in the hot-beds, such as
peas, beets, Onions, «beans, cucumbers, ete., but the
yield is so small and the time required for their ma-
turity so great that there would be no profit—only an
expensive luxury—in trying to compete with truck-
growers at the South, who with modern methods of
transportation can put a fairly good product into our
markets at a very low price.

For the cold frame no excavation is needed, only the
leaves or other covering put on in the fall to keep the
ground from freezing so that the space may be quickly
warmed up when desired. No bottom heat is used; all
the heat is secured from the sun and is held in the beds
by glass, mats and shutters.

Much skill must be exercised in running these frames.
The sash should not be opened in the morning until the
sun is well up, and should be closed before they cool off
too much in the afternoon. Mats and shutters must be
used to cover the frames at night and in very cold
weather. Thermometers should be kept in each frame

128 Tue Smatt Country Pace

and frequently examined. For radishes, lettuce; celery
cabbage, cauliflower, beets, onions, etc., a day tempera-
ture of 50° to 60°, and at night 4o° to 50°, will give the
best results. For corn, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes,
etc., the temperature should be 50° to 60° at night and
60° to 70° during the day.

Starting Seeds.

In the hot-bed and cold frame the conditions for suc-
cessful germination may be more certainly controlled
than out of doors, as we can prevent drying out of the
surface or too much moisture, either of which will gen-
erally destroy seeds just beginning to germinate. We
can also control the temperature. In the cold frame we
generally cover the seeds more thinly than in the open
air, by sifting over them a little soil two or three times
the thickness of the seed. If the soil is rather moist,
simply press the soil over the seed with the hand or
with a block, but if it is decidedly dry, the soil may be
settled by sprinkling with water. The critical time with
seeds is just as they are breaking through the ground.
If too dry at this time the seedlings will wilt, or if too
wet, they will decay (damp off). For the further
discussion of this subject see Chap. XI, on market
gardening.

Poultry and the Family Garden. |

These two elements of the small country home may
be antagonistic forces, or they may be mutually
beneficial. Among large fruit trees poultry of all
ages may be of great benefit in keeping down insect
pests, and may be kept in runs among them the year
around. Among grapevines, raspberries, and _ black-
berries, they may be allowed to run until the fruit be-
gins to color. Among the currants and strawberries

Tue Famity GarpDENn 129

small chickens may be allowed to run if too many are
not kept in one place, but must be removed as soon as
they begin to pick off the fruit.

The vegetable garden must be fenced in or the poul-
try kept in an enclosure where they cannot get into the
garden, for even small chickens will scratch and pick
the leaves from seedlings just coming out of the ground.

CH As? MER Nelt

Fruit Growinc

HE person who moves into the country for the
purpose of earning a living, must do it with the
understanding that the business of farming in

any of its branches—dairying, fruit growing, market
gardening, etc.—must be conducted on the same prin-
ciples as any other business to succeed.

While Nature is often lavish in her bounty, and
seems to give a large increase for our efforts upon the
soil, average results will show that we are as much de-
pendent upon correct methods, skilful management, and
hard work for a good return from our labor as in any
other calling.

For the best results we must understand the nature of
the soil, the needs of each crop to be grown as to soil and
exposure, and the special care required, from the plant-
ing of the seeds or plants to harvesting and marketing.
To the novice we would say: Go slow. Do not risk all
in your first efforts. Don’t put all of your eggs in one
basket. The business of farming must be learned just
the same as any other business. Do what you can
thoroughly, be prepared for disappointment, but ex-
pect and work hard for success. Be a good scholar, and
learn from every possible source. Get acquainted with
successful farmers, fruit growers and gardeners in your
neighborhood. As a rule they are good fellows and
always ready to assist a beginner in every possible way.
Take their advice, but adopt only that which applies to
your immediate conditions.

130

Fruit GRowinc 121

Equipment Requtred.

The equipment required for successful fruit growing in-
cludes suitable soil and exposure, tools for the cultiva-
tion of the soil, saws and shears for pruning, ladders for
gathering the fruit, space for preparing the fruit for
market and storing until sold. A spraying outfit is also
needed in every section of the country to protect our
crops from insects and fungous pests.

Soil.—In most sections of the Eastern United States,
only small areas of one kind of soil may be found. The
land is so tumbled about that we may find clay, loam,
sandy or gravelly soil, some with slopes in every direc-
tion, so that suitable land in small areas for any of the
hardy fruits may be found in almost every direction.

Plows.—For working the land a large plow for break-
ing up and a small one for working in among the trees
and small fruits are needed. If the fruit plantations are
small several owners may unite and own one sulky or
other kind of large plow.

Harrows.—Much labor is saved in fitting and work-
ing the land among trees by the use of harrows. The
ordinary wheel, shears, or spring-tooth harrows will do
good work around trees while small, but when the
branches spread and droop to the ground a special
form of harrow, in which the blades are spread apart,
must be used. This enables the horses to go outside
the branches while the harrow hugs in under them.

Cultivators.—Most of the harrows 1n use are made for
two horses, but as one horse can generally do all the
work on a small fruit plantation, the cultivator becomes
the chief implement for working the soil between the
trees and among small fruits. Many of these tools are
provided with several kinds of teeth, wings and other
Combinations, like the Planet Jr., Iron Age, etc. ‘The

(22 Tue Smart Country Prace

spring-tooth cultivator is especially useful in stony
soil, its action being lifting rather than scraping or
dragging, as with many others. With the harrow or
cultivator, starting early in the spring when the ground
is soft, the land may be kept in a fine, mellow condi-
tion without the use of the plow.

Weeders.—After the surface of the ground has been
made fine and mellow the weeder will keep down all
weeds if run frequently enough, and with it spread wide
one can go over a large area in a short time. The weed-
ers with straight teeth do better work than those with
curved teeth, though the ‘adjustable weeders”’ which
have curved teeth are convenient for running between
narrow rows.

Spades and Spading Forks become a necessity in
digging and planting trees and bush fruits, and in dig-
ging about young trees or in places where the plow will
not reach. The spading fork is more serviceable, anduas
easily used where the soil is full of small stones or coarse
organic matter.

Hoes and Rakes.—While we may do nearly all of the
work about small trees and small fruit plants with the
cultivator, there will be some spaces where the hand hoe
must be used. As about all of the necessary stirring
of the soil is done by the cultivator or harrow, the only
use for the hoe is to cut. up small weeds that grow
around the hills, and this hoe should have a thin, sharp
blade for cutting only. The triangular. hoe shown in
Fig. 41 will be found the most satisfactory for all kinds
of garden hoeing except hilling up, and that can gen-
erally be best done with the cultivator or the hand
wheel-hoe.

For stirring the soil among the rows of garden plants
where the cultivator cannot run, the steel-toothed gar-
den rake is a tool that will do more work than the hoe.

Fruir GROwING 132

Two rakes are needed, one with twelve to fifteen teeth
to work between the rows and one with four to six
teeth to work in between the plants and hills. The
wheel hand-cultivator shown in Fig. 40 will be found
useful among the small fruits. With the large wheel
of this hoe one can run it easily and do much better
work than with a smaller wheel.

Trowels.—For transplanting strawberry and other
small plants one cannot get along without the garden
trowel. Those with the shank welded to the blade are
better than those with the shanks riveted.

Saws.—In growing tree fruits saws are necessary, for
while we should never make a cut upon a tree without
some good reason, there are many times when we must
prune more or less. For cutting off large branches a saw
with rather large teeth is needed, the teeth pointing for-
ward a little, like the splitting saw, and set rather wide.
For cutting small branches, grafting, etc., a saw with
fine teeth is better. The Paragon saw has a curved
blade, the teeth on the inside pointing toward the
handle while those on the outside point toward the end.
This enables the pruner, when in the tree or on the lad-
der, to reach a branch over his head or at arm’s length
in front and cut without bearing down, simply pulling
the saw forward, while a branch lower down may be
cut by running the saw forward and downward. A
long slender saw is very convenient for cutting when
two branches come close together, or if placed upon a
pole to cut small branches that could not be reached
from the ladder, and for marking from the ground
branches that are to be cut by men in the trees.

Pruning Shears and Hooks.—Pruning shears with
handles two to three feet long are very serviceable for
cutting stout canes of raspberries, grapevines, and low
branches from fruit trees. Pruning hooks with long

134 THe Smatt Country Pace

handles are indispensable for cutting the ends of long
shoots in the tops of trees, and cutting off clusters of
insects and their nests. The thorny dead canes of the
blackberry plantation are best cut out with a hooked
blade attached to a fork-handle about four or five feet
long.

The hand pruning shears are needed for pruning
vines, shrubs, currant bushes, and the ends of raspberry
and blackberry canes, etc.

Horses and Wagons.—The labor conditions are such
at the present time that little or no profit can be made
from farm or garden crops if we have to hire much help;
therefore we must do all that is possible with horse
power, and horses and wagons are needed upon the
farm both for pleasure and profit. Wagons are needed
to draw supplies and carry produce to market. For
soft, perishable stuff a spring wagon is useful, but for
carting manure, and heavy farm products, a wagon
without springs is better. By using bolster springs a
wagon may be quickly changed from one to the other.
The manure spreader, mowing machine, horse rake, and
weeder, are desirable even upon a small place and become
a necessity when a large business in general farming is
done. |

Packing and Storage Room.—With almost all kinds
of fruit some place is needed in which to prepare it for
market or store it for a greater or less time after it is
gathered. For small fruits we need a place where they
can be put into a cool atmosphere after being picked
and be kept until shipped. This may be a cool cellar or
basement room on the north side of the house or other
building, or it may be a cool room with ice stored over-
head-or along the sides. The former, however, is better,
the atmosphere being dry—while the latter will often be
quite moist. For storing fruit and vegetables during the

Fruit GRowIneG 135

winter, a cellar where the temperature can be kept near
freezing is desirable. It should be slightly moist to pre-
vent wilting of fruit or vegetables. If the cellar is too
dry, fruit and vegetables may be kept from wilting by
storing in forest or other tree leaves. If the latter, how-
ever, are too moist and the cellar is very warm they will
heat and cause decay.

FrRuIT GROWING AS A BUSINESS.

Fruit growing has many attractions. It is a business
in which we often hear of large profits being made, yet
when we come to sum up the average we find that fail-
ures are frequent and the business is not more profit-
able than many others. It, however, has many attrac-
tions aside from the financial question. The fruit trees
in bloom and trees and vines in fruit are especially beau-
tiful; and the study of varieties, and watching the devel-
opment of the plant or tree from small beginnings, keep
us interested in things outside ourselves. When prop-
erly and skilfully conducted, large profits may be made
from all of our fruit crops.

The markets of our country are among the best in
the world. Our people can and do pay better prices for
choice products than any other people. Yet the supply
of choice fruit that comes to our markets from all parts
of the world is so great that prices do not rule high.
Choice fruit, however, will always sell at good prices, and
when economically grown there is often a large profit in
growing it.

The Apple.

This is the most important tree fruit of the temperate
zone. It is grown from Mexico to Northern Canada and
from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Apples grown from
New York City to Northern Canada and from Nova
Scotia to Michigan are of better quality than those

136 Tue Smartt Country Pace

from any other section of the world. Apples from
_ Colorado, Oregon, Washington, Nebraska, and other ex-
treme Western states are often of large size and beau-
tiful color, but are coarse in texture and of poor quality.
The apple is very prolific, single trees frequently yield-
ing fifteen to twenty barrels of fruit. Two acres are
known to have produced fruit in one season that sold
for $500. There are within the limits of the ctuyeor
Worcester, Mass., seven young trees that produced
one hundred and seven dollars ($107) worth of
fruit in a single season. Three trees in Williamsburg,
Mass., are reported to have yielded sixty-five barrels of
apples.
The Best Soil.

The soil best suited for the growth of the apple is a
strong moist loam, a clay loam, or a clay soil, well under-
drained. The noted apple growing sections of the coun-
try are Nova Scotia, Maine, Canada, northern New
England, Champlain Valley, Vermont, northern New
York, and Michigan, and other localities where the soil
is “good grass land.’ The best results are obtamed
where the land is deeply fitted and kept thoroughly cul-
tivated. If it is not in good condition to start with, it |
may be cheaply made so by growing and plowing under
cover crops like clover, rye, peas and oats, soybean, corn,
peas and barley, etc., using from 300 to 500 pounds of
some good grain fertilizer per acre, or a light dressing of
manure; if the land is very poor, Thus uponiiand
plowed the spring previous to planting we may sow very
early peas and oats, one and one-half bushel of the former,
two of the latter. When the peas are in bloom and the
oats heading out plow under and at once sow buckwheat.
Let this grow until the first to middle of August, then
plow under and sow peas and barley. This latter crop
will grow until severe freezing weather, and should be

Fruit GRowINnG bay

allowed to lie upon the ground until the following spring
to protect it from wind and washing. If the growth is a
good one no weeds will start early in the spring and it
may be plowed under at any time up to the middle of
May or when one is ready to plant the trees. This treat-
ment will put the land in condition for a quick growth
of trees, and any crop that may be planted among
them.
Selection and Arrangement of Trees.

Young quickly Be
grown, No. 1 apple @
trees, two years old,
should be selected.
If these can be found
in nurseries near at
home they are much
fo be preferred to
those bought from dis-
tant nurseries, there
are so many risks of
injury in transporting
them a long distance.
Only well known and
felaable nurseries
should be patronized
unless one can see the
trees before purchas-
ing. Fall is the best
time forplantingapple
and pear trees, while
the peach, plum and
cherry had hetter be Pig, t2-a'e, Ng.) Teatoer gi the se
planted in the spring. eancds Pruned for Planting. ’

In the orchard it is generally best not to mix the dif-
ferent kinds of fruits, but peaches may be set in among

138 Tue Smatt Country Pace

the apples, as they are short lived and an income may be
expected after from four to six years, that will ma-
terially aid in paying expenses, and under favorable con-
ditions might pay all expenses to date. In the accom-
panying scheme standard varieties of apples like the
Baldwin, King, Spy, etc., are planted forty to fifty feet
apart, with “fillers,’’—varieties that come into bearing
early and make rather small trees, like Hubbardston,
Wealthy, etc.,—set in between at twenty to twenty-five
feet distance. Upon rather light land where the trees
will not grow to very large size this distance may be
forty feet for the permanent trees and twenty for
the fillers. If the land is suitable and is on an elevation,
with a north or western exposure, peach trees may be
used as fillers, but if on a southern exposure they will
not do as well unless the elevation is quite high above
the surrounding land.

At these distances crops of vegetables or any other
hoed crop may be planted among the trees for six to
eight years, though these crops will not prove as profit-
able among the trees as in open fields by themselves.

Cultivation.

If hoed garden crops are grown among the trees this
is all the cultivation needed, but fertilization material
sufficient for both crops must be applied or the trees will
suffer. ‘ Frequently, however, it may be best not to grow
any crop under or between the trees, in which case the
cultivation must be wholly charged to the orchard and
the cost reduced to the lowest possible point. The mod-
ern orchard wheel shears or spring-tooth harrows are
so arranged that the blades are carried out by a
spreader beyond the track of the horses and will
work up close to the trees without endangering them
with the eveners or whiffletrees. With one of these mod-

Fruir Growine 139

ern tools run frequently, the work of cultivating an
orchard, killing all weeds, and keeping in the moisture
in dry weather, will be reduced to a very low figure.

A Cover Crop.

This cultivation should be kept up from the beginning
of growth in the spring until about August 1st, when
peas and barley may be sown, which will lie on the
ground during the winter, to protect the land from
blowing and washing, and can be plowed under at any
moe tp to june. The advantage of this crop over
clovers, rye, or vetch, is that it makes no growth during
the spring to carry off moisture or plant food, which
might result in much injury in a severe drouth during
April or early May. Rye or crimson clover makes but
little growth at the North until the middle or last of
May, and would produce a very small amount of organic
matter to turn under until later in the season. Red
clover makes a good growth in the fall and supplies a
large amount of organic matter in top and root for
turning under. With the above treatment no manure
and little fertilizers need be applied to the trees until
they begin to bear.

Cost of an Orchard.

The estimated cost of an apple orchard per acre may
be stated as follows:

FIRST YEAR BEFORE PLANTING.

Pe aya Ta remit atthe ata, Gat ie sii Boa avaie-e aes $3.00
Beas atidyOa bs (CEU) es.c5 ag = 6: b0h 8 0.duaiel's 3.00
Peas anc. panley (SCE0)nn 32. 35 oss ends 3.50
Pee ELEN egret Oi ane ete ei ORs, Fale: Cav ele, aera’ 2.00

140

THe SmMaAtt Country PLace

SECOND YEAR.

Plowing and -harrowine 2 22 9 n sn se os $ 3.00
Mpple ELSES. LOG. (TOC ss sae. ge ao aiee ss 10.90
1 eIV21L aN io Cae a eee te CeO Ph ns pM) ba ne tA 2.00
PLAEEOW Me. gta heey Pee sr akin s 5.00
Harrowing and seeding with peas and

Wepileyany ery t ice ion Basen sioatihde hata at 4.00
$24.90

THIRD YEAR.
Plowinecand eultayation.4 te e.5 eck re $5.00
Cover crop-ol.peas and. barley... 2.2. 4.00
Priming andispraying 5 Sse Se 2.00
$12.00

SUCCEEDING YEARS.
Cultivation and cover crop. 6.0). set. as PIO.00
Spraying ane pruminye oc. cess ww we 5.00
$15.00
Cost with garden crops in orchard:

FIRST YEAR.
Bigene laiids A. crea rds ole ak Deeer oe $11.50

SECOND YEAR.
Plowange anid) harroywnae ey 6... <4. oe ee $3.00
TRECS: TOG ND LOCea yy eee iene shy tees arg eae 10.90
Neg [eal enh lS mg lb ees nt UL ARTS De Nery Me NCC 2.00
$15.90

SUCCEEDING YEARS.

Sprayineand prernnen Woe Nie ee $5.00

Cost with peach trees as fillers:
Apple trees, 30 \@) Toes aie eee ets $3.00
Peach! . (SF (280.0) ¢ os een. tee ene 4.00

Fruir GRowInc 141

Apple trees will cost from $8 to $10 per hundred and
peach trees from $4 to $8 per hundred, according to size
and. quantity purchased, and the difference in cost of
establishing an orchard with apple trees or peach trees
as fillers is about $3.90.

Thus it will be seen that the cost of establishing an
orchard on land not given to other crops for the first
Prelit or tem years, atter which it is expected to yield
some income, makes it a question whether or not such an
enterprise with apples alone would be profitable unless
undertaken upon a large scale, when the proportionate
gost might be largely reduced: With peach trees as
fillers or when crops are grown among the trees there is
a much greater chance of profit.

Apple Trees in Tur}.

In strong, rich, moist land, when an abundance of
manure or mulching material is available, apple and
even peach trees may be successfully grown in the
turf. This lessens the cost of establishment, but unless
the conditions are especially favorable the trees will not
make as rapid growth as under cultivation. Where
trees in turf can be made to produce a vigorous growth
the fruit is generally more brilliant in color, of better
quality, and will keep longer. This method, however,
is not to be recommended unless the above conditions
can be fully met. By this method land that cannot be
used for any other purpose except forest growth may be
made to produce moderate crops of most beautiful and
highly colored and flavored fruit.

Any coarse organic matter like swamp hay, brakes,
fine brush, forest leaves, etc., may be used as a mulch,
but it must be drawn away from the trunks of small
trees in the fall to prevent mice from feeding upon
the bark. If the land is covered with leaves, brush and

142 Tue Smart Country PLace

grass, it is best to paint the trunks of young trees with
freshly slacked lime wash in which is mixed a tablespoon-
ful of Paris green to one gallon of the lime wash. An-
other danger to the trees under this condition is from
fire, which if started during high winds might destroy
many trees. The mulch should be placed on the wind-
ward side of the trees, which in most sections of the
Eastern United States is the east, when the flames would

Fic. 43—A Tall Apple Tree Before Pruning.

be blown away from them. If placed on the north or
west sides the flames would be blown toward them.

Renovating Old Trees.

Throughout the older settled portions of the United
States may be found old trees in almost every stage of
decline and of a great manv varieties, producing more
or less fruit but of so poor quality as to be of little value.
These trees are, therefore, neglected and serve only as

Fruit GRowInG 143

breeding places for all sorts of insects and fungous pests.
Where the trunks and main branches of these old trees
are sound the tall spreading branches may be headed
in, the lower ones thinned out where needed, and
in a few years a more spreading and vigorous head
produced.

If the varieties are such as are not in demand vigor-
ous trees may be grafted and in three or four years made

Fic. 44—A Tall Apple Tree After Pruning.

to produce Baldwin, Wealthy or any other variety for
which there is a good market. If the trees are weak in
growth the ground under them should be first fertilized,
and the head cut back so as to produce a vigorous
growth.

Fig. 43 represents an old tree before being pruned.

Fig. 44 shows the same old tree after pruning.

Fig. 45 shows the same old tree regrafted,

144 Tue Smart Country Piace

Grafting.

Grafting is work that any one at all skilled in the use
of a knife can do, yet it will be found that to graft over
large trees will require much time and the young trees
should have attention first. The process of grafting is

Fic. 45—A Tall Apple Tree at the End of the First Season After
Heading Back.

fully illustrated in most works upon fruit culture but a
brief description may be desirable here (Figs. 46, 47, 48).

Tools jor Grafting.

For this work one needs a fine-toothed saw to cut off
the stock, a large knife to pare the end of the stock, a
grafting chisel to split the stock, a small sharp knife to
cut the scion, and wax for covering the wound. Begin-
ning at the top of the tree, stocks from one to three inches
in diameter are cut off squarely, at a distance from the
centre of the tree that will make a good formed head.

Fruir GRowInc 145

These stocks are pared smoothly; then, beginning at
the highest so that the grafts inserted will not be broken
out, the stocks are split with the chisel, and the wedge

inserted to hold open the cleft
until the scion is inserted, as in

Pie. 460. The scion (a part of c

a shoot of one year’s growth
with two buds upon it, cut
from the outside of the tree,) is
then cut wedge-shaped in two

directions and inserted into the |

stock so that the inner bark of
both scion and stock shall be in
contact as much as possible.

Fic. 46—Grafting : How the Stock

is Cut and Split.

When the scions are

ia piace the wedge is ‘knocked out and the stock

Fic. 47—Grafting : How the Scions are Cut.

presses the two firmly together. Should the stock be
less than an inch in diameter, it is generally best to
bind it firmly with raffia fibre or other soft flat-tying
material. When all is done every cut surface must be
covered with wax to keep out air and water (Fig. 48).

Io

146 Tue Smart Country Pace

Grafting wax may be purchased of any dealer in horti-

cultural supplies, or may be made of four parts rosin,

two parts beeswax, and one part tallow or linseed oil.

When these are thoroughly melted together in a kettle

and cooled a little the mixture may be poured into a pail

of water and then drawn out in sticks like molasses

candy, or it may be allowed to become nearly hard and

TLE then _cut cout: of the) Aaeiie

: and drawn. For grafting in

cold weather a little more oil

or tallow may be used. In

covering the wounds the wax

is drawn out in small strips

and pressed firmly over the

split on -each side; over eine

Fic. 48—Grafting: Stock After Sop Bouae ote peur thy an

the Wax Has Been Put On. down into the cleft, anda

little on the end of each scion. To keep the wax from

sticking to the fingers a little soap or beef or mutton
tallow may be rubbed over the hands.

Time for Grafting —For the apple and pear the best
time is just as the buds are beginning to swell. For
plums and cherries the work should be done a week or
two earlier. Fig. 49 shows a tree one year after graft-
ing, (Fig. So one three years aiter-graigine. 4

Pruning or regrafting alone, however, will not reno-
vate old fruit trees permanently; more plant food of
some kind must be applied. A heavy mulch of straw,
coarse manure, forest leaves, brush, etc., spread outvas
far as the branches reach, or plowing and cultivating
must be given them, or they will relapse into their old
condition in a very few years. To produce high color
and fine quality in our fruit some potash is needed in
addition to the fertilizing elements in our stable manure
and mulch. This may be wood ashes from one-half to

Fruir Grow1ne 147

one ton per acre or 300 to 500 pounds of sulphate of
potash per acre. If the trees are making a slow
growth of wood from roo to 300 pounds of nitrate of

Deamaeeee. |

Fic. 49—An Apple Tree One Year Fic. 50—An Apple Tree Three Years
After Grafting. After Grafting.

soda sown just as the buds begin to swell will force the
growth of wood early in the season and produce an
early ripening of the fruit in the fall.

Pruning Fruit Trees.

All fruit trees will grow out of shape and condition
for producing the most and best crops of fruit if left to
themselves, and they may be either improved or injured
by pruning. The apple orchard of the Eastern United
States as a rule has been seriously injured by pruning.
We have usually planted too closely, then as the trees
grow together the lower branches become weak and we
cut them off, and the process is kept up until we have
but a few long bare branches stretching high into the
str hig...5 1).

The sap moves slowly in these long bare branches, the
leaves are small and the fruit imperfect in color, small

148 THe Smart Country Prace

and of poor quality. The remedy for this is, first, for
young trees, to plant further apart, and for old trees,

San eenetieeeeieeateene =

Fic. 51—An Old Orchard Pruned from Below Only.

to thin out where too close and cut back the long
branches and thus force the growth into the lower
branches as shown in Figs. 52, 53 and 54.

Fie. 52—An Old Orchard Before Pruning.

In an orchard with trees planted twenty to twenty-five
feet apart, when the branches begin to touch we may
obtain just as much fruit if one-half of them are cut out,

Fruit GRowIne 149

and those remaining will go on improving, while if we
do not thin out all will be seriously injured in a very

EF oe ee E Ss eae RO: |
E * |

Fic. 53—An Old Orchard After Pruning.

few years. Fig. 55 shows a perfect tree produced by
an abundance of room and heading in from the top.

Fie. 54—An Old Orchard the Autumn After Pruning.

Don’t Cut Away all the Sprouts Inside the Tree.

Most trees that have been pruned until the bare
branches stretch high in the air are making a great
effort to overcome the injury by throwing out numerous
sprouts and suckers. These should not all be cut off,

150 Tue Smart Country Prace

but where there is space above for them to develop they
should be allowed to grow, when in a few years they
become the best part
of the trees ‘and awe
may then thin ous
some of the old wood
that has become weak.
If a few (Of (aeee
sprouts are allowed to
grow each year we
will have an entirely
new head in a very

Fie. 55—A Perfectly-Shaped Apple Tree, ;
Produced by Cutting In the Tops. few years. Fig. 56

shows a convenient ladder for working among low
LLees.

Varieties.

There is no section of the country where too many
worthless varieties of apples are not grown. ‘There is
hardly a state in the union where more than five or six
kinds can be grown with much profit. To decide what
varieties one had best grow one must consult the mar-
kets, and the neighboring growers as to what they find
the best adapted to their soil and most profitable. In
old orchards we must get rid of the worthless varieties
by cutting them down or regrafting, as there can be only
loss in caring for them.

It is impossible to give a short list that will be best
for all localities, but the following is suggested as one
that includes varieties of especial value in many localities:

Summer.—Astrachan, Williams, Yellow Transparent.

Autumn.—Gravenstein, Wealthy, MacIntosh, Fall
Pippin.

Winter.—Baldwin, Hubbardston, Spy, King, Sutton,
Roxbury Russett.

Fruir GrowInc 151

HARVESTING APPLES.

Much of the value of any fruit crop depends upon how
it is harvested. For first-class fruit it must be hand
picked, though with low-headed young trees and a mulch
on the ground we may let such varieties as Astrachan,
Williams, Wealthy, Gravenstein, etc., drop to the
ground, and sell them at good prices for immediate use.

For harvesting apples a variety of lengths of ladders is
necessary, according to the character of the trees. The
shorter the ladder that can be used the better and
quicker will the picking be done. The tripod ladder
shown in Fig. 56 is a very cheap one and easily con-
structed, one that will stand anywhere and occupies
little space when the leg is folded in. The leg is bolted
in between the two side pieces, making a very strong but
light ladder.

Small baskets holding from a peck to a half bushel
with a bale are necessary to pick into while in the tree.

Time for Harvesting Apples.

Early apples to be sent to market must be picked as
soon as fully grown but before they become mellow.
Such varieties as Astrachan, Williams, Gravenstein,
etc., as previously mentioned, if intended for a local mar-
ket, may be allowed to fall upon mulch if the trees are
not too high. When ripened in this manner the fruit is
more brilliantly colored, of better quality, and is more
cheaply picked from the ground than from the trees.

Winter varieties should not be picked until fully
_ grown and well colored, but before severe weather, which
in the New England states ranges from September 20 to
October 20, according to the season and the variety.

To keep well, apples should be put into a cool place as
soon as possible after picking. This may be a north shed,

152 Tue Smartt Country Prace

or a north room in the basement of the dwelling-house,
unless one has a cold-storage room cooled by ice or other
artificial means. They may be picked and put into clean
dry barrels or boxes and put at once into the shed or
cellar stacked one above another, or put in shallow bins.

To keep the temperature low where there is no arti-
ficial means of cooling, doors and windows may be
opened on cold nights and closed during the daytime.

The temperature may be reduced to the right point
at start by using a mixture of salt and ice (ice cream
freezing mixture), in large tubs or boxes. A half ton of
ice and 50 to 100 pounds of salt will cool quite a large
space down to 35° to 40°, at which apples will keep
until cold weather comes on, when the temperature may
be reduced to 32°, which is about the best point for keep-
ing this fruit. .

The Best Package for Apples.

For shipping apples to distant markets, the barrel
seems to be the most in favor, in most sections of the
country, but for local markets in Eastern United States
the bushel box is very largely used. This is practically
a return package. You deliver your fruit and get an
empty box in return or are paid its value. As ordinarily
marketed the fruit is not faced but the box 1s filleded
little above the level with the top of the box so tian
they cannot be stacked one above another. By the use
of a cover facing may be done, the cover being nailed on
and the bottom taken off; the fruit is faced on this
cover, and when the box is full the bottom is nailed on.
By this method the apples are more or less bruised, but
by putting a cushion of corrugated paper under the
cover this may be obviated: The box 1s mucha amen
easily handled, occupies less space in shipping and stor-
and supplies nearer the amount of fruit the con-

ing,

Fruir GRowiIne V53

sumer demands. Extra fancy fruit in boxes often sells
for from $1.50 to $3.00 per bushel box. The method of
packing and heading apples in barrels is shown in’
Fig. 98.

Insects Attacking the Apple.

The most injurious insects attacking the apple are the
codling moth, apple maggot, and apple borer. The cod-
ling moth is the insect that makes the wormy apples.
The eggs are laid upon the apple or leaves near it, from
which when hatched comes a very minute worm that
enters the apple at the blossom end, feeding inside, and
when mature coming out at some other point. The rem-
edy for this pest is Paris green or arsenate of lead applied
in the Bordeaux mixture,—copper sulphate and lime—
(see experiment station bulletins), first, just as soon as the
petals of the flowers have fallen, and second, a week or
ten days later. Much may also be done to keep this pest
under control by picking up all dropped fruit and feed-
ing it to pigs or other animals.

The apple maggot, the insect that works so abundantly
in sweet and mild-flavored fruit, causing decay in a very
short time, cannot be destroyed by any spraying ma-
terial, but its depredations may be greatly reduced by
feeding the fruit as mentioned above for the codling
moth.

The apple borer attacks the trunk, especially of young
trees. The first year it feeds upon the inner bark and
sap-wood near the ground; the second year it works in
deeper and makes a turn upwards, when it feeds for a
year and then works out to the bark, where it escapes
ea, pertect imsect. The remedy for this pest is to-ex-
amine the trees in May and again in September. The
young larvz will be found by paring off the outer bark
where the chips are thrown out by the young borers,

154 Tue Smartt Country Prace

and killing them with a knife. The older borers must be
killed with a flexible wire forced into their holes. If,
however, all of the young borers are destroyed in May
and September there will be no large ones to kill in this
way. |

All holes made by the escaping insects should be filled
with putty or thick paint to prevent decay of the wood
around the injured parts. The San José scale in some
sections 1s proving a serious menace to apple growing.
It is destroyed by the lime and sulphur mixture and by
some of the soluble oils. For further directions for the
control of these pests see bulletins of experiment
stations.

Blights, Rusts, Scab, Etc

Of the many fungous pests injuring the apple, the scab,
a dark olive growth on the surface of the fruit, is the most
destructive. This growth comes upon the leaves and
fruit at any time from May to October, when we have
much moist, cool weather. It is destroyed by the Bor-
deaux mixture. The two sprayings for the codling moth
early in the season will prevent the growth of the scab,
after which we must spray about the last of July and the
last of August. When the weather is wet at picking time
it is sometimes necessary to spray just before picking to
prevent the growth of the scab in the barrels.

DwarF APPLES.

Some twenty-five or thirty years ago much interest was
manifested in Dwarf Apples. Everybody was going to
plant their front yards, back yards, and all the waste
places about their homes, and have apples for home use
and for sale. These trees were grafted upon a slow-
growing stock called Doucin and Paradise.

Many trees were sold by nurserymen and planted in

Fruir GrowInco

ib

the home gardens, where they thrived for a time, but
owing to the care they required and their failure to give
the results promised, interest soon died out and in ten or

fifteen years hardly a dwarf apple tree
could be found. Within the past three
or four years the interest in dwarf
apple trees has been revived but that
these will prove of any permanent value
will require at least a decade to decide.
If in the small yards of our city and
suburban homes dwarf trees should
continue to grow for a few years and

Fic. 56—A_ Con-
venient and Cheap
Ladder for Work-
ing on Low Trees.

produce a fair amount of fruit, they will be of much
value; but we can hardly expect them to compete
with standard trees for the production of fruit for com-

mercial purposes.

CHAPTER, ViTt

Tue Pears, Peacues, Quinces, Pins,
Apricots AND NEcTARINES

THE PEAR.

HILE the pear is not as extensively grown

as the apple, there is a ‘large demante tes

choice fruit and when well grown it is a
paying crop.

It thrives best in a deep rich loam, though it succeeds
well in a clay soil if well underdrained. Like the apple,
the fruit is of better color and quality, and the trees are
less injured by insects and fungous pests, if planted on
high elevations in full exposure to sunlight and air.
Pear trees are more subject to injury from insects and
fungous pests than the apple, and for this reason, per-
haps, we do not often see old pear trees, or orchards from
fifty to one hundred years old, as we do of the apple.
Being smaller in size than the apple it is, however, more
easily sprayed and pruned and with good care ought to
last longer.

Kinds of Trees; Preparing for Planting.

No. 1 trees two years old are best for planting and
they are prepared and planted in the same manner as
the apple (see pape 137). The after care, ‘cultivation:
fertilizing and pruning are also practically the same, ex-
cept that in pruning the leading centre shoots of young
trees must be cut back more severely to force an early
low branching and fruiting. Much growth of wood will

156

Pears, Pracues, Qurinces, Etc. 157

be saved if the shoots are pinched off in the summer than
if they are allowed to grow and then cut off.

Pear trees are planted from twenty to twenty-five feet
apart, according to the variety for standards, and twelve
to fifteen feet for dwarfs, though if the latter are set
below the point where grafted or budded roots are formed
from the pear stock the tree becomes a standard
and will need the wider space first mentioned. Dwarf
trees are sometimes very satisfactory if planted on very
heavy soil, as the quince root upon which they are
grafted grows best in such soil. Some varieties succeed
better upon the quince stock than others, and only those
that do well on this stock should be planted as dwarfs.

Renovating Old Trees.

The majority of pear trees in the older sections of the
United States are very much in the condition of the apple
trees—neglected, unpruned, and unsprayed, and produc-
ing fruit that hardly pays for harvesting. To put them
into condition to produce fruit that will bring a fair
price in the markets, we must first reduce the amount
of old wood which is covered with fruit buds just as we
would with the currant or gooseberry bushes, and by
fertilization, mulching, or cultivation induce some
strong, vigorous growth that will produce large and fair
fruit. This is done in the same manner as described for
the apple. Pear trees may be regrafted to desirable
varieties and produce fruit more quickly than the re-
grafted apple tree.

Varteties.

The number of varieties of pears of commercial value
is much less than that of the apple, but fewer kinds are
generally planted. Those recommended and most gen-
erally grown are:

158 Tue Smatt Country PLace

Summer.—Bartlett, Clapp, Giffard, Petite Margaret.

Autumn.—Seckel, Sheldon, Bosc, Kieffer (for canning
only).

Winter.—Hovey, Lawrence, Anjou.

Harvesting the Fruit.

To be of the best quality, pears should be picked as
soon as fully grown but while still hard. The right con-
dition for picking is indicated by a slight change 1n color.
The mellowing of the wormy specimens on the trees
may indicate the time for picking, It is best, how-
ever, to pick only the large, fully matured fruit at
the first picking, and allow the small specimens to grow
a few days; they will often double in size in a very
short time and be of much better color and quality.

Ripening the Fruit.

Pears are of much better quality picked early than if
allowed to ripen on the trees. To obtain the best color
and quality, they must be put into a cool, close, dark
place while hard. Placing in trays or shallow drawers,
one layer deep, and covering with a woollen blanket
will bring on a very bright color. Most standard varie-
ties bring a much higher price if put into cold storage
for a few weeks until the main supply in the market is
exhausted.

Packages for Pears.

In most Eastern local markets pears are sold in bushel
boxes without covers. For shipping to distant mar-
kets they are packed in barrels, as apples are shipped.
Some growers use a half-barrel cask rather large in
diameter, but if a cushion is placed on the bottom and
top of the bushel box hard fruit will ship as well in this
package as in the barrel. In most places the grower
must ship in the package demanded by the dealers.

Pears, Peacues, Quinces, Etc. 159

Insects Injurtous to the Pear.

There are but two insects generally seriously injurious
to the pear, the San José scale and the pear psylla. The
former of these pests are destroyed by spraying with
the lime and sulphur mixture which the reader will find
described in the bulletins of the state experiment sta-
tions. Its presence upon the trees is not noticeable
except upon close examination. The leaves when at-
tacked are small, weak, light in color, and leaves and
twigs are covered with minute circular specks. These
specks soon become very numerous and when they are
scraped off with the back of a knife-blade slight exuda-
tions of a yellowish substance are seen. If one finds an
unusual covering upon the twigs, leaves or fruit, he
should send specimens at once to the local experiment
station, and follow directions as to their destruction, for
it takes but a year or two for them to spread over whole
orchards and ruin the trees.

The pear-tree psylla is a minute brown aphis-like in-
sect that flies about the trees in early spring and lays its
eggs on the leaves and tender twigs. From the eggs
comes a small flattened aphis that feeds on the juices

of the tender tissues. Each one of these insects feeds
ina little pool of juice that is sweetish to the taste,
and wasps, flies, and hornets appear in large numbers
either to feed upon the insects or upon this sweet liquid.
The presence of the aphis may be known by the large
number of these attendants. After the insects have
worked a while the leaves, twigs and fruit are covered
with dirt-like masses, where the dust of the atmosphere
has adhered to the sticky exudations of the insects.
This pest has not been controlled satisfactorily in the
past, but it is claimed that the lime and sulphur mixture
used for the San José scale will destroy these also. If

160 Tue Smatt Country PLace

this should prove to be the case, pear growing in some
sections may again become a profitable industry.

The decline in the business of fruit growing during the
past few years has been due largely to the poor quality of
the fruit put upon the market. We often hear of choice
pears selling for from $2 to $4 per bushel, and choice
fruit can be grown, though at an increased expense on
account of insects and fungous pests. The more good
fruit there is put into a market the larger will be the
demand, and in the end with better prices, while poor
fruit will drive the consumers to buy other kinds. It is
therefore ‘up to” us, the growers, to produce fruit of
choice quality, using economically all known means of
protecting our crops from insects and disease.

Fungous Pests.

Insects are not, however, the worst obstacles of suc-
cessful pear growing. Two diseases, known as “leaf
blight’ and “fire blight,’’ are even more destructive. In
many sections, especially where the trees are in sheltered,
frosty locations, the pear trees are attacked by the leaf
blight. This is a fungous or spot disease that appears
upon leaves in the middle of summer, often causing
them to fall. When this occurs in July or early August
new shoots and often blossoms start out late in the
season. This growth is weak and will not withstand the
winter, making the tree more liable to the attack of fire
blight the following summer. When this fungus at-
tacks the fruit, it becomes hard and woody and cracks
open. A remedy for this disease is the Bordeaux mix-
ture, spraying just before the leaves open, just after the
petals have fallen, and twice after at intervals of two or
three weeks. Trees that are growing vigorously are less
liable to this or any other disease than weak trees. A
very rank, soft growth of wood, however, may be injured

Pears, Peaches, Quinces, Etc. 101

by cold, and the next season be more liable to disease
than if the growth were slower and yet vigorous.

The fire blight is a bacterial disease, closely related to
small-pox and diphtheria in the human system. In
extremely hot and moist weather the spores (germs) of
this disease, finding their way into the tissue of the trees
through the blossoms or soft new growth, grow in the
cells so rapidly that in a few days large branches or even
whole trees may be killed. The first appearance is a
wilting of the branches and leaves; then they turn
brown, and finally black. The remedy is first to cut
away all diseased branches as soon as they are attacked,
then produce a healthful growth by cultivation, mulch-
ing, or the use of fertilizers containing a large percentage
of potash. The spraying done for the leaf blight will no
doubt have a beneficial effect against this disease, as
will probably the lime-sulphur mixture used for the San
José scale. No outside application, however, will de-
stroy this or any other disease of our fruits after the
spores or germs have gained entrance into the tissues.

Much may be done to keep our pear and other fruit
trees from being injured by insects and fungous pests
by so fertilizing, cultivating, and spraying as to keep
the trees in a vigorous, healthy growth. A liberal use
of fertilizers containing a large percentage of potash
and phosphoric acid, or simply wood ashes, lime, and a
little sulphate of potash, will tend to a hard, compact,
well-matured wood that will withstand blight and pro-
duce a foliage that will be resistant to leaf blight and
to insects.

THE PEACH.

In many sections of the United States from Georgia
to Canada the peach may be profitably grown when the
soil and exposure is right. From New York City south
along the coast and along the east shore of Lake Michi-

It

162 Tue Smart Country PLace

gan, where the temperature does not run much below
zero and shows little variation during the winter, the
peach may be grown upon almost any elevation or ex-
posure; —butlin aie
interior and at the
North they must be
planted on elevated
land with full expos-
ure that will cause
firm, well - matured
wood, and where the
temperature does not
run as low as in the
valleys. ‘The peach

Fic. 57—A Three-Year-Old Peach Orchard succeeds best in a
in Summer Growth. rather thin soil, but

it must be made rich enough in organic matter by
plowing under green crops or by other means to pro-
duce a good growth of wood. For the best results the
land should be fitted by deep plowing and harrowing.

Trees and Their Preparation.

Northern-grown trees are generally selected for plant-
ing in northern sections, but if well matured it matters
little whether they are grown North or South, though
the nearer they are grown to the section where planted
the better. Trees of medium or small size are selected,
as they generally have more dormant lateral buds than
those of larger size. Asa rule the No. 2 trees in any lot
are those of a weaker growth and will make smaller
trees; therefore it would be better to buy from a lot
where all have made a rather small growth and select
the best of these,

Pears, Peacues, Quinces, Erc. 1623

Pruning for Planting.

Most large growers of the peach trim the young trees,
before planting, back to a single cane ‘‘ whipstock,”’
cutting the end back to from two to three feet long,
allowing the head of the
tree to be formed upon
this single cane. Others
out ihe tree’ down te
within two or three inches
of the bud and allow only
one bud to grow thus near
the ground, upon which
tateral branches are
formed at regular inter-
vals from one to two feet
from the ground. The |,
latter method will pro- F186. 58—A Peach Tree Unpruned for
duce the best tree in ; cane tear.
shape, but it will require more attention until the
head is pretty well established. During the early sum-
mer, until the head is well formed, the young trees must
have constant attention, pinching back or rubbing off
all shoots not desired to form a perfect head. The aim
should be to produce a regularly formed head with a
leader in the center. Fig. 57 shows a peach orchard
in Massachusetts three years old.

LL

After Pruning.

At the end of the first season’s growth we should have
a conical formed tree with three or four main branches
starting at from one to three feet from the ground.
Before growth begins the second year the strongest of
these should be cut back from one-half or two-thirds
their length, to give perfect form, and cutting out here

104 Tue Smartt Country Pace

and there small shoots that tend to make the head too
close. A low, compact tree that will carry a large crop of
fruit should be the aim, and during the summer such

Fic. 59—A Four-Year-Old Peach Tree Before Pruning.

Fic. 60—A Four-Year-Old Peach Tree After Pruning.

branches as tend to outgrow their neighbors must be
pinched off. Fig. 58 shows a tree unpruned for four
years; Fig. 59, a tree before pruning; Fig. 60 a tree
pruned.

Pears, Peacues, Quinces, Etc. 105

By frequent attention fruit trees of all kinds may be
kept in perfect condition for many years by the use of
the pocket-knife and thumb and fingers. As the trees
grow old the lateral branches tend to become weak,
and either die or are cut away unless the tops are heav-
ily pruned; and in northern sections, where the fruit
buds are winter-killed, as they frequently are, this non-
bearing year in old orchards is taken advantage of and
the tops are cut back severely, thus forcing growth into
the lower branches and practically renewing the trees.
The cutting of large branches should be done with a
saw and never with an axe or the heavy lever shears.
All wounds more than an inch in diameter should be
painted with linseed-oil paint to prevent decay.

Peach trees are not long lived. ‘Under especially
favorable conditions an orchard will last from twelve to
fifteen years, and individual trees sometimes reach forty
to fifty years of age. At the North, three crops in five
years are expected on the average, though sometimes
three or four consecutive crops may be obtained, while
on the other hand the buds may be destroyed by cold as
many consecutive years.

The crop, too, varies much in quantity and quality,
according to the season. In a bright, warm summer, or
where the trees are on a warm, sunny, but high eleva-
tion, the fruit will be of much better quality than in a
cold, wet season or cool, moist soil and north or east
exposure.

Gathering and Marketing the Fruit.

To be of the best quality, peaches must be ripened
upon the trees, becoming almost mellow before picking.
The stage of ripeness at which they should be picked
can only be determined by the eye. When the fruit is
fully grown and the green color has been replaced by a

166 THe Smartt Country PLace

delicate shade of pink, white or yellow, and when the
ridge along the suture seems soft and springy, it is ready
to pick for the local market. For home use they may
become mellow before picking, but for a distant market
they must be decidedly hard but fully grown before
picking.

Packages and Marketing.

In almost every large peach-growing section some
distinctive package is used. Thus in the Lake Shore
region of Michigan a cheap bushel basket is used; in
California, Georgia, and other Southern States, a six-
basket carrier is used, each basket holding about four
quarts; while through Maryland, Delaware, New Jer-
sey, Connecticut and the Northeast the fourteen to six-
teen-quart basket is used. The first and last of these
packages are, to say the least, inconvenient, but they are
cheap; the carrier is expensive, but carries the fruit im
a much superior condition to the others mentioned.

Varieties.

New varieties of peaches, as of almost every other
kind of fruit, are offered every year, and much money is
expended upon them, yet few of these prove of greater
value than the old standard sorts and each grower
should consult the markets and the varieties he and other
growers have tried before planting largely of any one
kind. Different varieties, too, will vary much in differ-
ent seasons, as well as in different soils and exposure, yet
there are those that do well under a great variety of
conditions and the latter should be most largely planted
unless found to fail under the local conditions under
which they must be planted. Among those that have
generally proved valuable may be mentioned Champion,
Mountain Rose, Old Mixon, Crawford’s Early, Craw-
ford’s Late, Elberta, and Fitzgerald.

Pears, Peacues, Quinces, Etc. 167

Insects Injuring the Peach.

Only two insects are seriously injurious to the peach,
the peach borer and the San José scale. The first is, in
its fully developed stage, a small wasp-like moth with
transparent wings. It lays its egg on the trunk near the
ground and its young, the larve or borers, feed upon the
inner bark and sapwood, but not penetrating deeply
into the wood as does the apple borer and many of its
class.

Its presence may be known by masses of gum near the
ground that come out from the injured places. If the
borer is present there will be fresh chips mixed with the
sum. This gum is drawn away, a little of the bark cut
off, and the fat white larva is easily found and de-
stroyed. The best time to look for these borers is in
May and September. .Placing sheet tin or fine wire
netting about the trunk of the tree is of some benefit but
is more expensive and not as effectual as the knife.
After the borer has been destroyed, it is well to press
the soil well in place over the injured parts.

The San José scale is a less conspicuous and far more
destructive pest. It is a small scale-like insect, so small
that an individual scale is scarcely distinguishable by
the naked eye, but it becomes so numerous that the
trunks and branches appear to be covered with scale-
like deposits. When this crust of scale is scraped off
with the knife many bodies are crushed and a mass of
yellow liquid is seen. This pest begins to hatch its young
as soon as the weather has become warm and settled:
a single pair and its progeny may produce millions of
young in a season. See experiment station bulletins
for method of destruction.

168 Tue Smartt Country PLace

Fungous Pests.

The “peach curl” is a fungous disease that attacks
the leaves of peaches and the fruit of native plums,
causing the tissues to swell to large, light yellow masses
and finally drop off. It does not kill the tree, and soon
new leaves come out, but two or three seasons’ attacks
are sufficient to so weaken the trees that they become
an easy prey to peach yellows and leaf spot.

The “peach yellows,’’ a disease as to the nature of
which little is known, is by far the most destructive pest.
The leaves when attacked have a light green or reddish
color, and the shoots are small and wiry. The fruit is
small, ripens prematurely, is of most brilliant color, and
often has a <decidedly bitter taste: “The diseacauma
thought to be contagious, spreading from one part of an
orchard to other parts, and from one orchard to another,
but this apparent contagion may be explained on the
theory that the soil and climatic conditions being the
same, all the trees would be likely to present the same
conditions of growth that might result from extreme
heat or cold, or too much or too little moisture. Trees
attacked by this disease seldom recover wholly, though
by severe pruning back, and the liberal use of fertilizers
containing a large amount of potash, they may live
many years and produce much good fruit. The cost of
this work and the small cost of growing young trees up
to bearing size make it more profitable to cut out all
trees aS soon as they are badly affected and replace
them with young trees. The lime and sulphur remedy
used for the destruction of the San José scale has a
decidedly beneficial effect upon the leaf curl and reduces
the danger of injury from the yellows, though it is not a
sure remedy for the latter. As with the pear, much of
success in growing peaches depends upon the condition

Pears, Preacues, Quinces, Etc. 169

of the soil, the cultivation given, and the amount and
kind of fertilizers used. Upon fairly good soil little or
mo tertilizer need be used until the trees begin to bear,
if the land is deeply plowed at planting and frequently
cultivated, especially during dry weather. Fertilizers
containing a large amount of potash and phosphoric acid
will tend to produce hard, early ripened wood that will
withstand cold and extreme dry or wet weather.

THE QUINCE.

With large supplies of more delicate fruit from all
sections of the world, the demand for the quince has not

a —

Fic. 61—Pear and Quince Trees and Blackberries in the Poultry Yard.

muereased as it. has tor the other large fruits. It is a
fruit that is not consumed uncooked and few families
use more than a peck or half bushel for canning or mak-
ing preserves, or flavoring apple or other sauces; yet,
the supply is not greater than the demand, and many
growers find it a paying crop.

170 THe Smatt Country PLace

For the best results a deep, strong, rich soil is neces-
sary. The best quince trees to be found in our average
gardens are those growing near the overflow of the sink-
drain, or cesspool, where the soil is very rich, or in
poultry yards (Fig. 61); and if one expects to make
quince growing profitable conditions somewhat similar
to the above must be provided. The fruit often sells
at from fifty cents to one dollar per peck, or three ta
five dollars per barrel, and a single tree will sometimes
yield from two to five bushels, so that the income from
the crop will warrant the rather large investment re-
quired to produce good fruit.

Selection of Trees.

Strong two-year-old trees, grown from cuttings or
grafts upon apple roots, should be selected. The tops
and roots should be pruned before planting in the man-
ner directed for the apple and pear. Quince roots are
fine and fibrous, and much care is needed in working fine,
rich soil in about them before it is pressed into place.
The after-pruning and care is about the same as for the
apple and pear, but generally frequent cultivation will
sive better results than with trees in turf.

Form of the Trees.

The quince is trained in the tree and in the bush form.
The first has the advantage that cultivation can be
carried on closer to the trunk, and that borers can be
more easily dug from a single trunk than where several
trunks are crowded together; while in the bush form,
if one trunk is injured others may keep on growing and
the tree continue to produce fruit, yet if the single
trunk is seriously injured the whole tree is destroyed.

For those who are not skilful in the work of training
trees, or who have no time for the work, the bush form

Pears, Peacues, Ouinces, Etc. 171

will be best, as it is the most natural and requires the
least attention. Quince trees may be set about 10 x Io
feet each way, and the heads kept in a round, compact
form, heading in the strong shoots that tend to outgrow
the limits of this space and thinning out the old wood,
allowing the young and vigorous wood full chance for
development. A vigorous growth of tree must be kept
up in order to produce fine, well-colored fruit. At
from three to five years in good soil the quince should
begin to bear and should yield fruit more or less every
year. The trees are long lived under favorable condi-
tions, but with the “‘no care’? method mostly in practice
they live but a short time.

Vanieties.

There are fewer varieties of the quince than of any of
our other large fruits, the Orange, Rea’s and Champion
being the kinds generally grown. Of these the Orange is
most grown but varies much under different kinds of
soil and exposure. Rea’s is larger than the average
Orange quince, comes into bearing earlier, and is more
highly colored. The Champion is the latest of the three
in ripening, and often fails to take on the brilliant color
which is so desirable in this fruit.

Marketing the Quince.

For the local trade this fruit is sold by the half peck
and peck, sometimes packed in neat, handled baskets.
For distant shipment they are put up in barrels, half
barrels, or in covered baskets similar to those in which
grapes are shipped to eastern markets; but no matter
what the package, when closely packed they come out
badly bruised and marked and do not look attractive or
keep well. For the retail trade they may be taken from
the loose package and delivered unbruised and attrac-
tive, and will keep a long time.

172 Tue SMALL Country PLace

Insects and Dtseases.

The same insects that attack the apple and pear also
injure the quince, and the remedies are the same. The
round-headed apple-tree borer is especially fond of the
quince and frequent examinations should be made for
them.

Of the diseases that attack the quince, the fire blight
described under the Pear (page 161) is often very destruc-
tive to the ends of the branches but seldom destroys the
entire tree, as it often does with the pear. As soon as it
appears all shoots attacked should be cut away and
burned. The cedar-apple fungus often attacks the
young fruit and the ends of the branches or stems soon
after blooming, stopping growth and causing the fruit to
become hard and woody. The leaf blight, a spot fungus,
often causes the leaves to fall in the late summer, thus
materially checking the growth of the tree and prevent-
ing the formation of well matured wood for the next
year. A remedy for these two diseases, and perhaps a
preventive of the fire blight, is the Bordeaux mixture,
applied just before the blossom buds open and again as
soon as the petals fall. If the lime and sulphur wash
was applied in April for the San José scale, only the
second application of the Bordeaux mixture need be
made.

THE PLuM.

Three groups of plums are now grown more or less in
our gardens and orchards, the European, the Japanese,
and the American. The first of these has been grown
the longest, is *represented. by’ the common tpige
plums, the Lombard, Damson, etc., and under favorable
conditions is the most profitable, though most subject to
injury from insects and fungous pests, and is often in-
jured by severe cold weather. This kind of plum lives

Pears, Pracues, Quinces, Etc. Lae

longer than the Japanese when well cared for. Fig. 62
shows trees more than thirty years old, that bear large
crops of fruit every other year, few varieties bearing
every year. For success a strong, moist, but well-under-
drained soil, situated where the water and cold will
drain off and abate quickly, is essential. The trees
should be planted where there is full exposure to the
north and west, vet with a good circulation of air and
sunlight about them.

Fic. 62—Plum Trees Over Thirty Years Old.

Strong, one-year-old trees budded upon the myroba-
lan stock or native stock should be selected. They are
pruned and prepared for planting in the same manner
as the apple, the top, however, being cut to a clean whip-
stock from three to four feet high. Clean and frequent
cultivation should be given, and a little fertilizer con-
taining a large percentage of potash and phosphoric acid
if they are not making satisfactory growth.

The planting and summer care are practically the same
as for the apple and peach. The trees, however, will
need more heading in to make the lower branches grow.

174 THe Smartt Country Prace

As the trees grow older, thinning out of the old wood
will be needed to encourage young and vigorous shoots,
which are necessary for the production of large and fine
fruit.

In quality the fruit of the best varieties of this group
is much superior to that of the Japanese or American
varieties, and when well grown sells readily at good
prices. Many insects and fungous diseases attack the
European plums, and constant attention needs to be
given them to save the fruit and the tree from serious
injury.

Insects.

The tree is attacked by the peach borer, which was
described under the Peach (page 167), and the plum cur-
culio often causes all of the fruit to fall before it is ripe.
This pest attacks the fruit, making a crescent-shaped
cut in the. skin, laying an ego .in.each cut. Thevlamge
works its way into the fruit and feeds until it is about
three-eighths of an inch in length, causing the fruit to
fall, when it enters the ground and makes a cocoon of
soil, from which it emerges the next season. Two
methods are employed to destroy this pest: first; by
spreading a sheet under the branches and giving the
branches a sudden jarring by striking with a padded
mallet or hammer, when the insects will loose their hold
and fall to the sheet. In the cool of the morning they are
so dormant that they will remain on the sheet until _
brushed or shaken into a pail or put into the stove,
but in the middle of the day they will often fly into the
air after a few moments of feigning death. Where a
large number of trees are grown the sheet is mounted
upon a frame like an inverted umbrella on wheels,
which can be quickly moved from tree to tree and the
insects brushed into a basin in the centre of the frame.

Pears, Pracues, Quinces, Etc. 5

Jarring must be kept up every day or every other day
for about two weeks from the time the plums are the
size of a small pea.

Another method which has proved effectual in large
orchards is spraying with the Bordeaux mixture and
Paris green, as described for the codling moth (page 153),
just before the flowers open, after the petals have fallen,
and twice after, at intervals of a week or ten days.
When all orchard trees are sprayed as above, most of
these insects are destroyed or driven away. When all
the orchards of a neighborhood are occupied by large
numbers of poultry, nearly all insects like the above are
sure to be destroyed, but where only a few trees are
enclosed in a yard the insects will come in from the
outside.

Fungous Diseases.

The “black knot,” leaf blight, and monilia or brown
fruit-rot are three very troublesome pests. The black
knot is a fungus that grows upon the branches, causing
unsightly black excrescences or warts. It often appears
in such numbers as to kill entire trees. To destroy this
pest the knots should be cut off as soon as they appear,
cutting off small branches affected or paring off the wart
when on the trunk or main branches. Painting the wart
with thick linseed-oil paint in which a little kerosene has
been mixed will also help to stop its progress. On se-
Getely ititested trees the whole head may be cut off,
leaving only short stubs, when a new growth of shoots
will come out and renew the tree. The spraying recom-
mended for the plum curculio will reduce the number
very materially, though all of the trees in a neighbor-
hood must be sprayed, or the spores of the fungus will
be carried from the unsprayed trees to those that have
been sprayed.

Ae) THe Smatt Country Pace

The monilia is a fungus that attacks the fruit as it

approaches maturity, causing it to rot, and when fully
developed covers the decayed fruit with light gray or
white dust-like spores. These spores are carried long
distances by the wind, and are ready to grow wherever
the proper conditions are found—.e., any of the stem
fruits with moisture upon the surface. Planting the
trees where they will have full exposure to sunlight and
air, a loose, open head, and thinning the fruit so that no
two plums will touch are preventive measures. Spray-
ing with the Bordeaux mixture will in a measure con-
trol this disease.
'. The leaf blight or shot-hole fungus often attacks the
plums, causing the leaves and fruit to fall in the sum-
mer, and consequently a poor growth of tree that is
liable to injury during the winter.

Varieties.

While long lists of plums are given in catalogues of
nurserymen, there are but few that are desirable or
satisfactory. The following list includes those that
generally succeed under a variety of conditions,. viz.:
Bradshaw, Lombard, Lincoln, Arctic, Quackenboss,
Fellemburg, Reine Claude, Washington, Green Gage,
Imperial Gage and Damson (a small blue plum valuable
for canning).

Marketing Plums.

Plums for the local market are sold in the common
quart strawberry basket, or by the half peck and peck.
For shipping they are packed in small crates or in the
common grape basket. It is a fruit that keeps but a
short time, especially in moist weather, and should be
picked when dry and put in a dry, cool place for keeping.

Pears, Peacues, Qutnces, Etc. 177

The Japanese Plum.

Within the past ten or fifteen years the Japanese
plum has been largely planted and is a very desirable
Budition to our list of fruits: It is rapid in growth,
comes into bearing young (from three to five years after
planting), the fruit is attractive and of fair quality. It,
however, is not quite hardy; the fruit buds are often
killed by cold, and the trees are short lived. This is
not a very serious objection, as young trees can be very
quickly and cheaply grown to fruiting size and the fruit
is better from young trees than from those of older
growth. It is propagated by budding upon the peach
and plum stocks, the former being most generally used.
It succeeds best upon thin soil but should be in full ex-
posure to sunlight and air. One-year-old trees are best
for planting, and are prepared for setting in the same
manner as the peach. They should be trained low, some
varieties requiring frequent heading in to keep them in
a close, compact form.

For insects and fungous pests the trees should be
sprayed with the Bordeaux mixture in full strength
before the leaves open, as this would not injure them.
After the leaves have unfolded the Bordeaux must be
diluted at least one-half and arsenate of lead used in
place of Paris green. The same insects and fungous pests
attack this species as are injurious to the European
plum and the remedies are the same with the above
modifications.

To obtain fruit of large size and good quality it must
be thinned before it is half grown, all specimens bearing
the curculio’s crescent-shaped mark be picked off and
no two plums be allowed to touch each other. Varie-
ties of this species are rapidly increasing and much im-

provement in quality of fruit and hardiness of tree is to
I2

176 Tue Smatt Country PLace

be hoped for from some of the new introductions. At
the present time the varieties that will give the best
results under ordinary average conditions are probably
the Abundance, Burbank, and Wickson, with Climax
and October Purple as promising new varieties.

American Plums.

Varieties of the American plum may be found growing
wild from Canada to Texas. Some are of good size and
fair quality, and much attention is being given to cross-
ing them with the European and Japanese varieties in
the hope of obtaining fruit of better quality and larger
Size.

Being perfectly hardy and comparatively free from
insect and fungous attack, they offer great promise, and
with the size and quality of the Japanese and European
varieties would be more valuable than either of the latter.

The better varieties now known have some market
value, particularly where the above species are not
grown, being especially valuable for preserving, many
considering them equal to the Damson for this purpose;
and when fully ripe they are palatable uncooked. The
trees grow best in a rather moist soil, but will do well in
almost any garden soil. Among the best varieties for
cultivation are the Wild Goose, Weaver, Hawkeye, Way-
land, Moreman, and Reed.

The only insect seriously injurious to this group of
plums is the peach borer (for description and remedy see
page 167). The only fungous pest of any importance is
the leaf curl, which sometimes attacks the fruit as well
as the leaves, causing it to puff up and soon drop off.
This pest is controlled by the diluted Bordeaux mix-
ture (4 copper sulphate, 6 lime and too gallons of
water), and by the lime and sulphur wash when. applied
for the San José scale.

Pears, Peacues, Qurnces, Etc. 179

. The Apricot.

The Apricot tree grows vigorously and often of large
size from Canada to Texas, but is very short lived, often
dying in the midst of the full summer’s growth or being
frequently: killed by severe winter weather. The fruit
buds are rather more tender than those of the peach and
no varieties of equal quality to the peach will grow at
the North. Varieties of the European, Russian and Jap-

| ee ee Bee G5)

Fig. 63—Currant Bushes Under Plum and Apricot Trees.

anese apricots resemble each other very closely but
none of them have much commercial value. The trees
are budded upon the peach and:seedling apricot stocks,
and require about the same treatment as the plum in the
preparation of the tree for planting and after care. The
insect and fungous pests are the same as those attack-
ing the plum, and require the same treatment. Among
the leading European varieties are the Early Montgamet
and Moore Park. Fig. 63 shows apricot and plum
trees with currant bushes growing between them.

180 Tue Smatt Country. Piace

The fruit is marketed in the same manner as the plum,
most of it, however, being used for canning, as very few
kinds mature so as to be equal to the plum or peach in
quality. Numerous hybrids between the above three
species have been produced, some of which are of much
promise, and if more hardiness of tree and) better
quality of fruit could be produced would be a great
acquisition.

The Nectarine.

This fruit may be called a smooth-skinned peach, for
the tree can hardly be distinguished from the peach tree,
but there is no down or woolly covering on the skin of the
fruit as on the peach. The tree is as hardy as the peach
tree, but the fruit buds are more frequently winter-
killed. The nectarine requires the same treatment as the
peach in every way, but as the skin of the fruit is smooth
more attention must be given to protection from the

plum curculio.
The Downton and Boston are among the best varieties.

THE CHERRY.

This is our most difficult fruit to grow in nearly all
sections of the country with the exception, perhaps, of
California and the Pacific Coast.

As with all of the stone fruits, more or less, the trees
are easily injured by severe cold, growing well for a few
years while young and then dying. The only places
where we find trees of large size are in grass along the
roadsides or on the lawns, and even here old trees often
die without apparent cause in a single winter.

The best land for cherries is a rather thin, poor soil,
with quick drainage; but it must be made rich enough
to produce a good growth, if not already in that condi-
tion, by the application of stable manure in the fall
before the ground freezes.

Pears, Peacnes, Quinces, Etc. 181

Little or no pruning is needed except to head in those
branches that grow so as to give the trees an irregular
shape. One- or two-year-old trees are best for planting,
the pruning needed before planting being the same as
for the apple and pear. The spring is the best time for
planting, though if planted early in the fall they will
succeed fairly well.

Varteties.

Two groups of cherries are grown, the sour or cooking
cherries and the sweet for table use.

The former are more hardy and productive, and most
easily grown. Of the sour cherries, the Early Richmond
and Montmorencey are generally grown, while of the
sweet kinds the Governor Wood, Black Tartarian, and
Windsor are perhaps the best.

Marketing the Frutt.

Most of the fruit grown in the Eastern States is mar-
keted in quart strawberry baskets packed in 32-quart or
bushel crates, though where grown for canning they are
sold in larger market baskets.

Insect and Fungous Pests.

The insects most destructive to the cherry are the
black aphis or plant louse, the plum curculio, and the
peach borer. The former is black in color and causes
the leaves to curl up and often drop off after a time.
The remedy is to pick off and destroy the curled leaves
when they first appear. The remedy for the other two
insect pests has been described under the Plum and
Peach. The black knot is destroyed as described under
tae Plum.

CHAP TE Rt x

THe GRAPE

: ANY species of the grape grow wild from
Canada ‘to Texas,’ and it° is more jones
cultivated in garden and vineyard through-

out this territory. As a home fruit, trained upon the
garden trellis or upon walls and the sides of buildings,
there are few homes where the grape may not be grown
with more or less success; but for commercial pur-
poses, it is only extensively cultivated in sections especi-
ally adapted to its growth. In the New England
States we find only here and there vineyards of small
extent, but as we go west the Hudson River and Lake
Shore vineyards assume large proportions, those of New
York, Ohio, Michigan, etc., being the largest grape-
growing regions in the world. The grape is grown to a
limited extent in the Middle and Southern States, and
to a larger extent on the Pacific coast, where, owing to
there being no rain during the ripening season, the fruit
can be grown upon self-supporting short trunks. At
the East varieties or hybrids of the Fox, Pigeon and
Summer grapes are most grown, while South and on the
Pacific coast the European variety and its hybrids, with
many American species, are more largely grown.

The conditions most favorable for the grape are a
rather light soil, well underdrained, in full exposure to
sunlight and air, and on the south slope of high hills,
especially at the North, safe from late frosts inthe
spring and early frosts in the fall; or on the borders
of large sheets of water, where frosts are prevented by

182

Tue Grape 183

the warm air arising from the water. On the hilltops
of New England, and similarly on the lake shores of
New York, Ohio and Michigan, frosts do not generally
do harm until after the first of October, at which time
the crop is usually ripe enough to pick.

Propagation of the Grape.
The grape vine is readily propagated by the amateur,
by cutting, by layers, and to some extent by grafting.

4

ears ree A EEE ee Sane ee ee ae ee
|
|
t

Fic. 64—A Small Vineyard.

Cuttings are short pieces of canes of the last season’s
growth, six to eight inches long, cut with a sharp knife
Square across the base at a bud, and at the end from
one-half to an inch from the bud. The best time for
making grape cuttings is in the fall soon after the
leaves have fallen and up to the time the ground freezes,
but they may be made in the winter when the canes are
not frozen. They may be planted in the fall as soon as
made, or tied in bundles of twenty-five and heeled in

184 Tue Smatt Country PLace

with moist soil closely packed against all parts. They
may also be kept in moist sawdust upon ice. They are
planted in rows any desired distance apart, the cuttings
being about two inches apart in the row, the soil pressed
very closely about the base, and the end bud a half inch
below the surface.

Layering is a very satisfactory method of increasing
the vine. The spring layer consists in first digging a
trench about six inches deep close up under the vines,
where lateral canes can be bent into it. In this trench
are placed canes of last season’s growth, held in place by
stones or forked sticks. When the buds along this cane
have grown from four to six inches long, rich soil is
packed firmly about them, when roots will start, and at
the end of the season we will have as many well-rooted
vines as there are shoots that grew on the cane laid
down. Summer layers are made about July ist, by
laying down canes of the present season’s growth and
covering with moist rich soil; at the end of the season
we will have as many.rooted vines as were canes laid
down. Layered vines may be dug in the fall and planted,
or left until spring, as may be most convenient.

In the vineyard, vines are grown from six by eight to
eight by ten feet apart, according to the variety and
method of training. The best vines for vineyard growth
are strong one-year-old No. 1. These should have but
one cane, cut back to two or three buds, and the roots
shortened to about six inches. In planting, the roots
are spread out over a cone or ridge of soil, or on the side
of a trench, the base of. the cane being covered with
only two or three inches of soil, but the roots running
full depth into the soil. Press the soil firmly about the
roots and place a stake at each one on the north side.
The first year any hoed crops like beans, peas, potatoes,
beets, carrots, etc., may be grown on the land, taking

Fic. 65—STrasite ORNAMENTED BY A GRAPEVINE Firry Years OLp.

; . wi

hae he
Re LE” ant 1) ane ee

THe Grape 187

care that the one cane allowed to grow be not injured,
but corn and small grains should not be grown among
them. Only one cane should be allowed to grow, and
this should be kept tied to the stake, all laterals being
rubbed off as soon as started. At the end of the first
year and the beginning of the second, this cane, if it
has made growth enough, is cut off at about two and
one-half feet from the ground or on the level with the
first wire or other support of the trellis. If to be trained

Fic. 66—Single Grapevine Pruned and Fruiting; Cane Tied to Top Wire.

to the sides of a building, this cane is encouraged to
srow at the end by pinching back the laterals until it is
carried to the desired height. In this way single vines
may be made to extend over long arbors and verandas,
or over the sides of large buildings, serving as an
ornamental covering and at the same time producing
lacee crops of fruit. (Pig. 65.)

In the vineyard the vines are trained to trellises
made of wire and posts, one, two or three wires
being used, according to the method of training. In the
very simple method shown in the picture (Fig. 66) the
canes bearing the fruit are trained upon the upper

188 Tue Smatt Country Pace

wire, while the new cane that is to bear fruit the next
season is trained to the lower wire. Chestnut, cedar, or
catalpa posts are the most durable, and No. 12 or No. 14
galvanized wire is used. The posts are about eight feet
long, set three feet into the ground. The top wire is
about five feet from the ground, the second one being
placed about eighteen inches below it. The fruit is borne
upon the top wire (Fig. 67) while one or more new canes
are grown upon the lower wire, with which to replace

Bats eee |

Fic. 67—A Single Vine with Fruit on the Top Wire.

that above after the fruit is gathered. During the sum-
mer growth of all canes but the new ones is to be checked
by pinching, thus forcing all growth into the fruit and
the new canes that are to bear fruit. next year, ie
ends of the laterals on the upper canes that bear the
fruit must be pinched off as soon as the last cluster of
fruit buds appear, which is often the last of May or
early June, and whenever new buds start on these
laterals all but one leaf should be pinched off. There
are many other systems of pruning and training prac-
ticed by grape growers, but the above recommends
itself as simple, requiring but little work; besides, the

THe Grape 189

fruit carried high upon the vine, is less liable to rot
or mildew, and is where it can be readily thinned and
picked.

Pruning the Vine.
By the above method all the pruning required is the

cutting off of the fruiting cane after the leaves have
fallen, removing all laterals and small canes near the

Fic. 68—Grapevine in Garden Unpruned for Five Years.

ground, and heading back the new canes to the proper
length to cover the trellis, or other support. Either one
or two canes may be used on the trellis; if two, one is
trained each side of the centre of the vine.

The time for pruning the vines may be from the fall-
ing of the leaves in the fall to the starting of the buds in
the spring, but the earlier it is done the better. If left
until growth begins, the sap will often flow from the cut
and possibly injure the vines.

Neglected vines may be pruned somewhat after the

190 THe SMALL Country PLAce

above system, as shown in the accompanying picture
(Fig. 68). Beginning at one end of the trellis new canes
are selected from near the centre of the vine, in sufficient
numbers to cover the wires or rails, and all others are
cut away until the vine appears as shown in Fig. 69.
The vine in full foliage is shown in Fig. 70.

Vines upon buildings are treated in a similar manner,

Fic. 69—Grapevine in Garden After Pruning.

One new cane only covers the space occupied by the mass
of unformed canes often found upon such vines.

Cultivation and Fertilization.

There is no fruit that so well repays good care and an
abundance of plant food as the grape, but there is more
danger of over-feeding than with any other fruit crop.
The vineyard should be kept cultivated enough to keep
down all weeds, and in times of drouth often enough to
keep a dust mulch upon the surface to retain what

Tue GRAPE 191

moisture there may be in the soil. With the plow, the
spring-tooth cultivator, and the grape horse-hoe, little
or no hand labor need be done in cultivation. The
grape horse-hoe enables one to draw the soil away from
the vine or throw it up against it, leaving only a little
space around each vine that must be hand-hoed, and is
a great labor saver.

2 ereee See ies fs ee
Fic. 70—Grapevine in Garden in September, in Full Foliage and Fruit.
Little or no nitrogenous fertilizers should be applied
unless the soil is very poor. A very good fertilizer is
made of equal parts of fine ground bone and sulphate of
potash, using from 500 to tooo pounds of this mixture
per acre, according to the growth of vine and crop of
fruit. For vines in the garden, if there is a wash of plant
food from surroundings, or if fertilizers are applied to
crops near by, no fertilizers need be used upon the
vines. Poultry droppings and wood ashes make a good
fertilizer for the grape, but if the vines are growing
vigorously only the wood ashes should be used.

192 Tue Smatt Country PLace

Varieties.

Among the many varieties grown there are but few of
much commercial importance—none, in fact, that are
entirely hardy and free from disease under all condi-
tions. . There are, however, several that are largely
grown. For New England the Worden, Concord, and
Green Mountain are the most hardy. The Delaware,
Brighton, and Campbell’s Early will be of some value
under favorable conditions. The Delaware is subject to
mildew, and the Brighton does not fruit well unless near
vines of other varieties the pollen from which will fer-
tilize their flowers, which are not wholly self-fertile. To
the above may be added for New York, Ohio, and the
Middle West the Catawba, Diamond, Niagara, Wilder,
etc., all of which, however, are more subject to mildew
and rot than those first mentioned. There is always a
great temptation to try new varieties, and these young
vines often show great promise when planted under
favorable conditions and in new soil, but when the vines
are older and the soil becomes somewhat exhausted
they develop many undesirable qualities. Therefore
it is best to plant largely only varieties of known hardi-
ness and market value, and which are profitable in one’s
own locality.

Marketing the Fruit.

In large grape-growing sections, the fruit is packed
for table use in small baskets of three sizes with handles,
weighing, basket and all, three, five, and ten pounds, In
this package they may be shipped a long distance and
delivered to the consumer in the original package. Fruit
from California is shipped in square baskets, four or six
in a carrier, and in this way stands shipment a long dis-
tance. Where the fruit is largely grown it is generally
bought on the vines by packers, the purchaser picking

THe GRAPE 193

and packing the fruit. Within a few years the manu- .
facture of grape juice has greatly increased, and a large
share of the crop in some sections goes to the factory,
where it is sold in bulk at from $25 to $35 per ton.
Grapes for packing sell for from one cent to two cents
per pound according to quality. The yield per acre
under the best conditions is from two to three tons.

In New England and near local markets grapes are put
into shallow trays of 16 x 24 inches, and three inches
deep. The grapes are packed, beginning at one side, in
two layers in such a manner that no stems show and the
grapes with the bloom untouched present a very attrac-
tive appearance, and sell at a high price. Some growers
in Massachusetts and Connecticut pack ten to twelve
pounds in two layers in the ordinary diamond market
basket and sell them to hotels and fancy restaurants at a
better price than they would bring packed in closed
baskets.

Girdling the Grape Vine.

In northern sections where frosts come early it is
necessary to hasten the ripening of the crop or it may
be cut off before it is ripe. This is done by girdling or
ringing the vine—z.e., taking out a ring of bark from
one-half to one inch wide just back of the fruit, which
stops the backward flow of the elaborated sap to the
stem and root back of the girdle, and it goes to the per-
fection of the leaves and fruit, causing the latter to
ripen a week or ten days earlier than fruit on ungirdled
canes. By this practice the northern grower can put his
grapes into the local market as early or earlier than his
neighbors of the Hudson River or Lake Shore vineyards.
It will also be fresher and more attractive, and usually
commands higher prices. The quality of the fruit is
somewhat improved by girdling, it being more juicy if

13

194 THE Smatt Country PLace

not sweeter. It contains more sugar than the fruit from
ungirdled vines, but this is not apparent to the taste, as
the acid is more soluble than the sugar. The part of the
vine girdled must be cut entirely away before the next
year, as it would make a very slow growth, if any, and
we must therefore grow sufficient new vine back of the
girdled part to supply canes for the next season’s growth.

Insects and Fungous Pests.

There are many insects which attack the grape, the
most troublesome, perhaps, being the “‘rose bug.”’ This
pest comes out of the ground about the time the vine
blossoms and feeds upon the blossom clusters. It
works in pairs, a single one of which will often destroy
several clusters of blossoms in a few hours. In large
vineyards they only work on the borders, as they come
in from the grass-fields adjoining, while the centres are
uninjured. The only remedy for this pest is to take a
shallow pail or pan, and put in a little water with about a
half inch of kerosene oil on top. Hold this under the
cluster of insects, touch them, and they fall into the oil,
from ‘which they never. escape... As “these imcecremae=
coming from the ground from day to day for about two
weeks, picking must be done two or three times at inter-
vals of two days or until the petals have fallen from
the grape flowers, after which the pests do not seem to
care for them and no further picking is needed. Closer
attention need be given to vines in the garden, as the
insects come from all sides and where there are but a few
vines a covering of mosquito netting would be the most
effective and satisfactory.

The grape-leaf hopper is a troublesome pest. It is
much like the leaf hopper that attacks rose leaves in the
early summer, causing them to look white and, if the
attack is long continued, to turn brown and drop off,

Fic. 71—Sprayep UNSPRAYED VINES: FIRST AND

JINES SPRAYED; SEconp anv FourtH UNSPRAYED.

a NA Aa es ire hee

* Lae © Seca: Pa) panei
ad 4p—~_ 3 f. A i
aks ETN ot ame,
‘ oa a « 4 ba P . y
«> ean,” wee,
7 St he p <td
ine, 4 4 -
4
by ry ' cn bs y
ral ; mat .
} , i
’ i a rm
’
se ‘
7 2 ,
i
: a.
i 7
e - ,
r :
- ol «
7 =
- .
4 §
J . oi
.
\
ip ae
4 P
Ps
P my rr.
- h
4 -
tq
ue
7 *
. -_
’
=)
7
»
rad
‘ .
a
, s
i
: : e y
We i -
: x
te»
— , *
. 0
= a . ae _ a
& i? >)

THe GRAPE 197

the fruit remaining unripe upon the vines until de-
stroyed by frost. No entirely satisfactory remedy for
this pest has been found, though spraying with kerosene
emulsion with all the force possible as soon as the pest
appears will check their depredations. Clean cultiva-
tion also helps the vines to overcome their injury.

Fungous Pests.

Diseases of several kinds are more destructive to the
grape than insects. The downy and powdery mildew is
very abundant on the leaves and fruit in moist hot
weather, causing the leaves to fall off and the fruit to
remain unripe. Fig. 71 shows vines sprayed and un-
sprayed. Varieties like the Delaware, Brighton, Niag-
ara, etc., are much subject to these attacks. The black
rot is a fungus which attacks the fruit, causing it to turn
brown and often destroying the entire crop. If the rot
appears when the berries are small they dry up and are
black in color, but if it does not appear until the fruit is
nearly ripe they fall off before turning black. This pest
and the mildews are kept in check by spraying with the
Bordeaux mixture, applying it just before the blossom
buds open, repeating it two or three times at intervals
of a week or ten days. If Paris green at the rate of one-
fourth pound to fifty gallons of the mixture is used, it
will kill some of the leaf-eating insects that attack the
vine, possibly some of the rose bugs.

Were it not for the insects and fungous pests, and the
damage by frosts, grape growing on the high hills of
New England would become a most profitable industry,
as by the process of girdling above described the time
of ripening can be hastened so as to successfully com-
pete with the large crops of the West.

CHA PR xX

Tue Busy Fruits

HE raspberry, the blackberry and the currant
are almost a necessity in the home garden, and
when properly cared for are profitable field

crops. The raspberry and blackberry require somewhat
the same conditions and treatment. They will grow
upon almost any good garden soil if it is well under-
drained, but to produce large fruit there must be an
abundance- “of moisture in. the soil. at the tagewa
ripening. This is obtained upon a thin soil. by plow-
ing in heavy dressings of stable manure or green
crops, by mulching, by frequent stirring of the soil,
or by irrigation. These are propagated by suckers
from the roots—z.e., shoots coming from buds on the
roots—and by root cuttings. The latter are much the
best to plant, as they have much larger and finer roots.
Root cuttings are made by digging up in the fall a lot of
the roots of the kind desired and cutting them into
lengths of about two inches. These are planted before
the ground freezes, in trenches about five inches wide
and two or three inches apart, about as thick as peas
would be planted, and covered with two inches of rich
soil. \Betore the ground. freezes, the trench: shoullamine
covered with four to six inches of strawy horse manure
or straw. In the spring, after the hard freezing is over,
the coarse cover is carefully raked off and the surface
raked smooth. During the summer one or more shoots
will grow from each piece of root, which by the end of the
season will be a foot or more high and will make the best
198

THE Bost Fruits 199

plants for fall planting. If one is not ready to plant the
roots in the fall, they may be packed in moist soil out of
doors or in a cold cellar until early spring, when they
must be planted at the earliest possible time. But they
are not as certain to grow as when planted in the fall.

Black-caps, purple-caps, and dewberries are propa-
gated by the rooting of the tips of the canes. These will
root by simply lying on the ground for a little time, but
the rooting will be hastened by covering with a little soil.
Raspberries are planted in hills three by four, or in rows
five feet apart, and blackberry plants in hills four by
five or in rows five or six feet apart. In the garden the
hills and rows may be closer than in the field, where the
horse is used in cultivating. All suckers that are not
needed to make up full rows or hills are treated as weeds.
Neither of these crops should be planted in the fence
corners or near the boundary line, as suckers will be sure
to spread over the line. Frequent cultivation must be
given to keep down the weeds.

Black-cap and purple-cap raspberries are grown in
some sections for market, while in others there is de-
mand only for home use. The black-cap is hardy and
productive, but owing to onslaughts of insects and
fungous pests a plantation must be more frequently
renewed than the red varieties. The purple-caps are not
quite hardy and the color of the fruit makes it unsalable,
yet in quality it is superior to the red or black-caps.

Pruning raspberries and blackberries is a simple proc-
ess. The fruiting canes should be cut out as soon as
the fruit has been gathered, and all surplus and weak
canes are taken out at the same time. Some growers
cut or pinch back the new growth to from two to three
feet high to make them grow stocky and be self-support-
ing, while others let the canes grow full length and sup-
port them by wires or other kinds of trellis. The work

200 THe Smatt Country PLace

of pruning may be done at any time after the leaves
have fallen, but is generally left until growth begins so
that the dead wood may then be distinguished and cut
away and the live wood preserved. Many varieties are
weak in growth and require some support. When

i)
Uh if he a eee
ohn Oe es Ge a

| ae W \ (Ny ( HN

Fic. 72—Trellis With Cross Supports for Raspberry and
Blackberry Canes.
planted in hills a stake may be driven in each hill;
when in rows, a wire stretched on both sides (Fig. 72)
will give all the support needed. The wires are first
stretched loosely from crosspieces twelve to fifteen
inches long nailed on stakes planted at intervals of ten
to fifteen feet. The canes are then drawn inside and

yuu

<=
=

(I
ing
hu

Fic. 73—Trellis Without Cross Supports.

the wires drawn up taut and caught upon a nail, thus
holding them in an upright position. When the canes
are not very thick and the rows close together no cross-
piece need be used, the wires being simply crossed over
the stake (Fig. 73). These wires may be loosened at
any time, thrown over into the middle of the row, and

Tue Busy Frutrs 201

again brought up against any canes that may have grown
outside the wire. This support is a great help in pick-
ing the fruit, which can be done more comfortably.
No. 14 galvanized wire is large enough for this purpose,
and if of good quality, well galvanized, will last from
ten to twenty years. Posts or stakes for this support
will last but six to eight years. Chestnut, cedar, locust
and catalpa make durable stakes.

Under favorable conditions raspberry and blackberry
plantations will continue profitable for a great many
years, but as a rule the greatest profit will be obtained
if a new plantation is made every six or eight years.

Insects and Diseases.

Neither the red raspberry or blackberry is often se-
riously injured by insects, but the black-cap is often
nearly destroyed by the “‘cane-girdler.”” This insect
cuts a ring around the new canes soon after they start
from the ground and lays an egg below the cut. When
this egg hatches the cane breaks off and the young
larva has a large supply of food from the girdled place.
It continues to feed downward, often going into the
roots and thus destroying the entire plant. The rem-
edy is to cut off the end of the girdled cane half an inch
to an inch below the girdling as soon as it begins to wilt,
and burn it.

A leaf blight attacks the raspberries in wet, hot
weather, especially when the plants are not growing
vigorously, often causing all but two or three of the
leaves on the ends of the canes to fall before ripening.
The ‘“‘spring”’ orange rust often attacks the leaves of
some varieties of the blackberry, developing large
masses of beautiful orange spores in the early summer.
This generally kills the canes attacked and when dis-
covered the infested stalks should be cut out at once

202 Tue Smatt Country Pace

and burned. The ‘‘fall or summer” orange rust attacks
the under sides of the leaves of some varieties in mid-
season, causing them to fall and the coisequent drying
up of the fruit. The above fungous pests are kept in
check and prevented from doing serious harm by spray-
ing with the Bordeaux mixture before the leaves unfold,
again just before the flowers open, and again as soon
as the fruit is picked. If sprayed when the fruit is
half grown the mixture adheres so as to srendcapam
unsalable.

The dewberry or running blackberry is successfully
grown in some sections. The plants are set in rows
three and one-half to four feet apart, the canes lying on
the ground during the summer.

The horse cultivator is run the same way every
time, SO thatthe canes may not be torn by the meena
catching in them. At the North, where Lhe-canesyare
liable to be winter killed, a light covering of hay, straw,
or pine boughs is placed over them. For summer growth
and fruiting the canes are tied up to keep the fruit from
the ground. This species, being nearly two weeks earlier
in ripening than the “high bush” blackberry, brings a
higher price and has been made very profitable.

Varieties.

The following are the varieties most generally grown:
Red raspberries—Cuthbert, Miller; black-cap raspber-
ries—Cumberland, Ohio, Hilborn; purple-cap _ rasp-
berries—Columbian, Shaffer; blackberries (high)—Aga-
wam, Snyder, Eldorado; dewberries—Lucretia.

THE CURRANT.

This is distinctly a home fruit, being found more
or less in every garden, but in many places it is grown
extensively for market. It is a very healthful fruit, its

Tue Busy Fruits 203

rich, clear acid making it especially palatable during
hot weather. It is easily grown but is often planted
away in a neglected corner of the garden, in which case
the fruit is likely to be small and of poor quality. It is
propagated in the same manner as the grape, shoots of
the last season’s growth being cut up into lengths of
six to eight inches as soon in the fall as the leaves fall.
When planted early roots often form before winter sets
in and the plants make a large growth the following
spring. The cutting bed must be covered with hay or
coarse manure to keep them from being heaved out by
the frost. A rich, moist, but well-underdrained soil is
necessary for success with this fruit, the plants being set
three by five or four by six according to the variety and
the method of pruning. Success in growing large fruit
depends upon the richness of the soil and the method of
pruning. The largest and best fruit is borne upon
canes two and three years old, therefore we cut out all
wood older than this and thin out the small wood so
as to have only a limited amount of the strongest canes.
By this method of pruning a large yield of fruit is
produced and it is so large and fine that it sells for the
highest prices. Thorough cultivation must be given,
and an annual dressing of stable manure or fruit-tree
fertilizer. The third year from planting, young currant
bushes should produce a paying crop of fruit, and from
this time on should yield annual crops as long as they
are well cared for. In some soils the bushes are heaved
out by frosts, and in the fall, just before the ground
freezes up, the soil should be plowed up against them
or a heavy covering of stable manure be put about
them. The currant may be grown under the shade of
trees better than any other fruit. (Fig. 63.)

204 Tue Smatt Country Pace

Varieties.

Only a few varieties of currants are grown, there
being less difference in them than in the varieties of
other fruit, the size, productiveness, and quality being
largely dependent upon the richness of the soil, the
cultivation given, and the pruning. Of the red varie-
ties, the Fay, Cherry, Wilder and Red Cross are the
largest and most productive. .Of the white varieties,
the White Grape and White Imperial are among the
best, the last named being of especially fine quality.

Black or English currants are sometimes grown for
home use, and near factory villages of English people
there is some demand for them. The bushes are hardy,
very productive, and free from all insect and fungous
attack. The fruit of the yellow-flowered currant is of
some value, especially the variety known as Crandall’s
Improved, but it ripens unequally upon the bushes so
that the crop .cannot all be picked at one times im
quality this fruit is superior to that of the black or
English currant.

Insect and Fungous Pests.

The worst enemy of the currant bushes is the currant
worm, known wherever there are currant bushes. The
mature insect lays its eggs on the mid-rib of the leaves.
The worms soon hatch out, and first each one makes a
minute hole in the leaf upon which the egg was laid.
They feed very vigorously and in ten days or two weeks
the leaves will have been entirely eaten up. The worm
is destroyed by hellebore used with the Bordeaux
DUXture,

A cane-girdler similar to the one attacking the black-
cap raspberry lays its eggs near the ends of the new-
growing cane in June; the end of this cane wilts and

Tue Busy Fruits 205

breaks off, when the larva works down into the cane,
often destroying from one to two feet in length. This
pest is destroyed by cutting off the cane a little below
the injury as soon as the wilting is discovered. A leaf-
blight fungus often comes upon the leaves of the cur-
rant before the fruit is ripe, causing them to fall and
leave the bushes bare for the rest of the season, thus
weakening them so that the growth the next year is
very poor, and in some cases killing the bushes in a
few years. This may be prevented by the use of the
Bordeaux mixture applied before the buds open, as
soon as the fruit has set, and again as soon as the fruit
has been gathered. This spraying and that for the cur-
rant worm is done by adding one-fourth pound of helle-
bore to fifty gallons of the Bordeaux.

THE GOOSEBERRY.

This is a desirable fruit for making jams and pre-
serves, and is easily grown, but there is little demand
for it in any but the very large markets. It requires the
same kind of soil as the currant and the same treatment
as to cultivation, pruning, and insect and fungous pests.
Gooseberry bushes are most easily propagated by laying
the lower branches, stooling—z.e., cutting the bushes
close to the ground and allowing numerous shoots to
grow out at the stumps, and mounding up moist soil
about them, when roots will form upon the base of each
shoot. The principal difficulty in growing the goose-
berry, especially the English varieties, is a mildew that
attacks the fruit and leaves. This is remedied in part
by the Bordeaux mixture. Most of the American seed-
lings are comparatively free from this disease.

The fruit of the currant and gooseberry is sold in
quart strawberry baskets packed in the 32-quart crate,
the currants selling for from eight to fifteen cents per

t

206 THe Smart Country Pace

quart. The gooseberry is marketed both in the green
and ripe state, and sells at about the same price as the
currant.
Varieties.
Among the varieties of the gooseberry to be recom-
mended are: English—Industry, Triumph, and White-
smith; American—Downing, Pearl, and Red Jacket.

THE STRAWBERRY.

In many particulars this fruit is of more importance
than the apple or the grape. It can be grown on smaller
areas, takes the shortest time to produce, and comes
earlier in the season. It is a healthful fruit, and will
yield more to the acre than any other, large or small,
having yielded, on small plots, at the rate of over 20,000
quarts per acre, and a single acre has produced more

than 15,000 quarts.
The Soul.

The strawberry succeeds best in a deep, sandy loam
soil, well supplied with organic matter from stable or
clover sod or other material turned under the previous
season. Upon land in an ordinarily good condition ten
to fifteen cords of stable manure may be used, or a good
crop may be grown in such land with commercial fertil-
izers rich in potash and phosphoric acid, from 1500 to
2000 pounds per acre. This had best be put on yan
three intervals—7.e., 500 pounds spread on the rows at
setting the plants, 500 more in early July, and the bal-
ance the last of August or early September.

Setting the Plants.

Plants for setting should be young runners with an
abundance of white roots. These are taken from the
edges of fruiting beds or from beds grown for this pur-
pose, the latter generally being stronger. The spring

Tue Busy FRrutrs 207

is the best time for planting, as the plants are dormant,
the weather is generally moist and cool, and roots are
formed more quickly than later. They may, however,
be set at any time from April to September with some
degree of success.

Methods oj Planting.

Three methods of planting are practised, the hill, the
hedge-row, and the matted-row systems. In the hill

Fic. 74—Strawberry Plants in Hills.

system (Fig. 74) as many plants as it is desired to fruit
are planted and all runners are kept cut off as fast as
they start until at the end of the season we have large
plants (stools), with a great many crown buds which
under favorable conditions will produce a large number
of berries per plant. The plants are generally set in
rows two and one-half to three feet apart and eighteen
inches in the row. By this method the labor of keeping
therunners cut off is great, but as no runners interfere the

208 Tue Smatt Country PLacre

hoe can be run in about the plants and the bed kept free
from weeds as cheaply as if the plants were allowed to
make runners. By the hedge row (Fig. 75) plants are
set in rows about three feet apart and from two to three
feet in the row, and runners enough are allowed to grow
to fill out a bed of three feet with plants one foot apart.
With plants set early in the spring these runners will
make growth nearly as large as the hill plants but it
takes more work to keep the weeds from among them

Y

S

Fic. 75—Strawberry ae The Double LindessRow Sinents ;
than under the hill system. The matted-row system is
where plants are set at various distances, according to
soil, three by three, four by four, and four by five feet
apart, and all the runners allowed to grow, covering beds
two to three feet in width. When the plants are set the
‘greater distance, and the runners are allowed to root not
nearer than four or five inches apart, the crop of fruit
will be large and of fine quality, but when all the runners
grow Over a narrow space, the plants will be weak, the
fruit small and in wet weather of poor color and quality,
and will decay quickly.

Tue Busy Fruits 209

With all of these systems it is best to keep all of the
runners cut off from the old plants until they have
gained considerable strength, generally up to the first
of July, before the permanent runners are allowed to
root. It takes more work to keep the weeds out of a
matted row than from the hills or hedge rows, as most
of them must be pulled by hand, the hoe starting the
half-rooted plants as it is run in among them. .

Thorough and frequent cultivation must be given
from the time the plants are set until the ground freezes
in the fall, as many weeds like grasses and chickweed
grow at any time when the ground is not frozen. One of
the great advantages of the hill system is that this work
can be done with the horse the wide way of the plants,
and the narrow way with the hand wheel-hoe. In the
spring we have grasses, pigweed, shepherd’s purse, chick-
weed, etc., to contend with; in the summer, “pusley,”’
barnyard grass, etc., and in the fall, shepherd’s purse, sor-
rel, chickweed, etc., and the time to kill them is when the
little seedlings are bursting through the ground. From
April to July the work, except pulling off the runners,
may be entirely done by the horse with the cultivator
and weeder. The latter tool covers six feet of surface
at once, and where the soil is free from sticks, grass,
or weeds, the plants will not be injured by it.

Winter Protection.

The strawberry plant is perfectly hardy to the far
north, but is easily injured during the winter by freez-
ing and thawing weather, especially in moist soils, and
must be covered for protection from this danger. Coarse
strawy manure, old hay or straw, pine needles, pine
boughs, etc., may be used for this purpose. Care should
be taken that the covering material does not contain
weed seeds. Most growers put this covering on after

14

210 Tue Smatt Country PLace

the ground has been frozen hard enough to hold up the
horse and load, but as in many cases there is a long-con-
tinued spell of freezing and thawing weather before this
condition is reached, it is best to put on a light covering
as soon as severe freezing occurs and then in the North
add more covering as the weather becomes colder. The
mulch is generally spread over the entire surface, but
when the rows are wide apart only the bed of plants
need be covered. In the spring some growers remove
the mulch from the beds and cultivate the soil until the
fruit begins to form and then return it, but most of
them let it lie upon the beds, simply drawing it away
from the crowns of the plants so that they may work
out without injury. On light land subject to drouth
the former practice will give the best results, while in
heavy soils the moisture dries out more rapidly if the
mulch is not removed. Quickly soluble fertilizers are
sometimes applied in the spring, but if used in large
quantities they tend to produce a leaf growth at the
expense of the fruit. A dressing of acid phosphate and
sulphate of potash put on very early in the spring, or
just as the fruit is beginning to form, will often greatly
increase the yield, but as a rule it is best to use the
plant food in the summer and fall. Nitrogenous fertil-
izers should not be used in the spring when the fruit is
beginning to form.

Harvesting the Fruit.

One of the great trials of the strawberry grower is
getting his fruit picked, packed, and marketed. The
fruit ripens rapidly and must be picked every day or
every other day, and unfavorable weather often pre-
vents it being harvested in good condition. It is often
difficult, too, to find help to pick and properly pack the
fruit. Women and children are generally employed for

&

Fic. 76—TuHe STRAWBERRY HARVEST.

Mg t
ye aver

Tue Busy Fruits 219

this work and are paid by the box, though when fancy
berries are produced that require especial care in pick-
me, etc., men are sometimes employed (Fig. 76). It
is a very trying job to keep a lot of young strawberry
pickers in order so that they will at all times do good
work. To get the best results one attendant or overseer
is required in the field to look after twelve to fifteen
pickers and another to carry in the berries and keep
records. To pack the fruit for this number of pickers
one person is needed when the berries are only topped
out and two when all are sorted. Many growers make
two sorts, No. 1 berries being sold with the grower’s
stamp, while the No. 2 grade is sold without the stamp.
As soon as the berries are picked they should be put in
a cool, dry shed or cellar, but not upon ice unless they
are to be kept a long time. If wet when picked they
should be placed in a cool draft if possible to dry them
off before packing in the crates. The most common
package is the 32-quart crate. This is a gift package
costing from ten to fifteen cents each. Southern grow-
ers who ship their fruit to the North must buy new
crates for each crop, as the old ones are not returned to
them, but those at the North secure these crates early
in the season at almost a nominal cost or as a gift
package, exchanging each full crate for an empty one.

Varieties.

The varieties of the strawberry in cultivation may be
divided into two groups—the staminate or perfect
flowered kinds that have both stamens and pistils, and
those that have pistils only and will produce no fruit
unless staminate flowered varieties are planted beside
them. These two kinds are arranged in many ways,
but the best results will be obtained if a bed of three or
four rows of one kind is planted and then the same

214 THe SmMatt: Country PLace

of the other. Pistillate varieties are generally more pro-
ductive than those having stamens and pistils.

Many new varieties are introduced each year with
high recommendations, but very few of them prove of
much value; yet as old varieties soon deteriorate, it
becomes necessary to plant new kinds after a few years.
There is now scarcely a variety in cultivation that was
grown ten to fifteen years ago.

There is great fascination in testing new varieties,
yet when we consider that not one in a hundred of the
new varieties equals the old standard sorts, we should
go slow in planting largely any new kind. The trial of
a dozen or two plants of a kind under two or three dif-
ferent conditions will enable one to determine whether or
not it is wise to plant it largely.

Of the varieties now generally grown the following are
the best: Staminate or perfect—Clyde, Brandywine,
Senator Dunlap, Corsican; pistillate or imperiect—
Sample, Haverland, Bubach.

Insect and Fungous Pests.

The strawberry is subject to these pests but not to the
extent that some other fruits are, and they are more
easily kept under control than many others.

The most destructive insect is the larva of the June-
bug or May-beetle. This insect lays its eggs in land where
there is an abundance of grass or other fine roots for its
larve to feed upon, and if we turn such soil over and set
strawberry plants in it, the grass roots being gone these
larve feed upon the strawberry roots. To avoid this
pest, therefore, we cultivate the land for one or two
years with some other hoed crop like corn, potatoes,
etc. The black paria and strawberry-crown borer are
minute beetles that lay their eggs close up to the crown
of the strawberry plants; the larve feed upon the roots,

Tue Busu FRruirs At §

and later, in the beetle form, upon the leaves, often doing
much harm. The remedy for these two little pests is to
grow only one crop on the land each year, planting a bed
each spring, harvesting the crop the following year, and
plowing under the tops, mulch and all, while the larve
are feeding upon the roots. Spraying with Paris green
and the Bordeaux mixture may kill many of them, but
this is hardly needed as plowing the immature larve
will destroy most of them.

The strawberry blight is the only serious fungous pest
met with. This comes upon the plants at any time from
planting to the ripening of the fruit when the weather
is moist and warm and the plants are not in a vigorous
and active condition. It appears as small reddish-
brown spots upon the leaves and when numerous causes
them to dry up. The remedy is to begin with the young
plants before they are set by dipping them in the Bor-
deaux mixture, and spraying once or twice after during
the summer. Then the following spring spray as soon
as the mulch is drawn off, and again before the blos-
soms open.

The strawberry crop is especially the crop for the
beginner, or one starting in business upon a new place,
because in twelve to fifteen months from planting a crop
may be expected, and from a few plants we may in a
year or two grow enough to plant acres, and at the
same time produce fruit for market.

CHAPTER

Market GARDENING

HE home garden has been discussed in Chap-
ter VI, and this chapter we shall devetemm
market gardening, or commercial gardening.

By market gardening we mean growing garden crops
in large areas and where individuals are devoting all of
their energies to this one line. Market gardens are gen-
erally located near large cities (within five to ten miles),
where the produce can be taken to market on wagons;
yet many are successfully carrying on the business at a
much greater distance from market, and shipping their
produce by express or freight. There are advantages in
favor of both locations. When near the markets one
may be able to watch prices from day to day and sell or
hold any crop as the market may warrant. Supplies,
too, may be bought cheaper, and the cost of transporta-
tion both ways will be much less. On the other hand,
land near large markets generally commands a high
jarice:

In the country at long distances from markets
land is cheap, and one may find that which is adapted
to any crop desired. Rotation, too, may be practised
on the larger area which the lower prices would render
available, whereby crops may be grown with less cost
than if the same crop were grown on land continuously
cropped, and with the modern methods of trans-
portation by express on both steam and trolley lines
produce can be carried at low rates. Moreover the
modern commercial fertilizers are made in such variety

216

Market GARDENING 212

and to such perfection that one is not wholly dependent
upon stable manure, which is very expensive, especially
when hauled a long distance.

In treating of the various market-garden crops in this
chapter, the limited space will prevent our going into
minute details, therefore only the most essential points
will be touched upon.

The Soil.

For the most successful market gardening a variety
of soils is a great advantage. For peas, beans, corn,
squashes, melons, etc., rather light, warm land is best,
while for celery, cabbages, cauliflowers, etc., a deep,
moist, clay loam will give the best crops; yet a deep,
moist loam, facing south, thoroughly underdrained, will
grow almost any crop if properly fitted and cultivated.
Even a sandy loam, well fitted with plant food and or-
ganic matter, may be made to grow any crop except,
perhaps, celery.

Glass Structures Needed.

While one may grow many market-garden crops with
profit without glass, it will be found more profitable to
have a few hot-bed sash (Fig. 77) or a small green-
house (Fig. 78) under which to start plants to be trans-
planted early to the open ground, and thus compete
more advantageously with the Southern growers or
those more favorably located near by.

Thus cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, celery, pepper, and
other plants may be started under glass and grown to a
considerable size, and when put out of doors will mature
the crop in a much shorter time than if the seed were
planted in the field. The first cost of cold frames and
hot-beds is less than that of greenhouses, and they are
much less expensive to run, though both require close at-
tention and skill to make them successful and profitable.

218 Tue Smart Country Prace

For the making, care, and management of cold frames
and hot-beds see Chap. VI, page 117.

Small greenhouses have many advantages over hot-
beds, and when we consider the cost of sash, mats, and
shutters, and the outlay for labor to shovel, snow, to
cover and uncover
every day, or perhaps
several times each
day, the cost of tie
* . former is but little

more than that of the
latter. Fig. 78 shows
a small, cheaply built

“lean-to’’ house in
Fic. 77—The Hot-Bed. Note Sash, Mats, which large numbers
DOSS of early plants may

be grown. The labor of running a hot-water or steam
heater is much less than the covering and uncovering
required for hot-beds,
and one can work in
such a- house. with
comfort no matter
what the weather may
be outside and have
perfect control of all
conditions necessary
for success. (Better
andearler plants may
be grown in the small
greenhouse than under frames, with perhaps the single
exception of lettuce, but with this crop the plants
may be better started in the house and transplanted
to the frames. To run hot-beds or greenhouses requires
the closest attention and good judgment. One must
learn by actual experience the conditions under which

Fic. 78—A Small Greenhouse.

eM
‘wo

Market GARDENING 219

the various plants are grown, and one can hardly expect
to be successful in every first attempt. For directions
for the care and management of greenhouses see
‘“Greenhouse Management,’’ by Taft.

In the business of market gardening one must begin
planning and work in winter, even if no glass is used.
Plans must be fully matured, and seeds, fertilizers,
tools, etc., must be on hand for prompt use the mo-
ment conditions are favorable for out-door work. Dur-
ing the month of January we may decide what crops
to grow, what fertilizers to use, what methods of grow-
ing to pursue, and learn as far as possible what others
are planning to plant and what the market is likely to
be. In February we should have our seeds and all
other supplies on hand and decide when and how we
will start our seeds, if under glass or in the field, get
manure on the land, make up the early hot-beds, etc.
See that all tools are in working order.

In March at the South and along the coast, garden
work is in various stages of development, from almost
full maturity of crops at the South to the starting of the
seeds at the North, fitting the land, sowing the first seeds
of onions, peas, radishes, etc., out of doors. In April
we uncover the rhubarb, clean up and harrow the as-
paragus bed, get in seeds of the more important market-
garden crops promptly and in rapid succession. As the
season advances one crop follows another as the first
matures until the last planting of beets, cabbages, and
cauliflower in July and August, and turnips last of all.

Fitting the Land.

The more quickly vegetables are grown the more suc-
culent and desirable they are. Therefore the land must
be made very rich to start with, and many market gar-
deners start by applying fifteen to twenty cords of

220 THe SmMaLtt Country PLAce

stable manure per acre and expect to obtain at least two
and sometimes three crops from the same land in a
season, though often using a liberal dressing of com-
mercial fertilizer to help bring on the last crop. Each
of the principal market-garden crops will require special
treatment of the details of which our space will allow only
a brief mention, but the reader is referred to the fol-
lowing books: ‘‘ Vegetable Gardening”’ (Green), “ How
to Make the Garden Pay” (Griener), ‘Success in Mar-
ket Gardening’’ (Rawson). We note the most impor-.
tant points to be considered in growing the following
ae aid ASPARAGUS.

This crop succeeds best in a light sandy soil, free
from small stones if possible. Plants are started from
seed sown in the spring in long rows or beds as carrot
or onion seeds are sown, and to make the best plants
are thinned out to two inches apart. They are in the
best condition for planting the following spring, though
many prefer to set plants two years old.

Planting.

The land is plowed as deeply as possible with a
single plow or, better, the subsoil or trench plow may
follow it, thus working the soil from twelve to fifteen
inches deep. After thorough harrowing it is furrowed
deeply five feet apart, the plants to be set eighteen
inches in the row. If a large plow is used and run two
or three times in a furrow they may be made from
eight to ten inches deep, which is the best depth for
setting the asparagus plants. Manure or fertilizer
may be used in the furrow before the plants are set,
or it may be spread on broadcast before plowing. The
plants are set about eighteen inches apart and covered
with only a few inches of soil well pressed upon the
roots with the feet.

Market GARDENING pap

When the plants are well started the trench is gradu-
ally filled until, about the middle of July, the land is
level. To secure the most profit, from one-half to one
ton of high-grade fertilizer or its equivalent in chemi-
cals, or five to ten cords of good stable manure should
be applied each spring and thoroughly harrowed in
before growth begins.

If the growth has been large cutting from the young
bed may begin the second year, but if small not until
the third year, the first time of cutting being only for
three or four weeks, increasing the time until the old
beds are cut from April to the middle of June. The
stalks are cut when from six to eight inches long, with a
forked knife, a little below the level of the ground.
These stalks are tied in small bundles or bunches of
various sizes for different markets. The size most in
use is such that thirty-six bunches standing on end will
fill a bushel box full level with the top. In gathering,
all stalks are cut; the very small and imperfect are
dropped to the ground as cut, or thrown out as the
stalks are bunched. Bunching is done with an ad-
justed buncher by which the exact size is obtained and
the bunch firmly held in place until tied. Tying is done
with raffia fibre, which is strong and flat and does not
cut into the stalks when drawn tightly, as it must be to
have the bunch hold together as it is handled in mar-
keting. This is one of the most profitable crops, selling
at from $1 to $3 per dozen bunches, according to the
season and the supply. Several varieties are cultivated
but the kinds most grown are Connover’s, Barr’s Mam-
moth, and Palmetto, there being little choice in them
except that perhaps the last is less subject to rust than
the others. Fig. 86 shows how this crop and poultry
may be combined; during cutting small chickens may be
allowed to run over the bed and after cutting, all,

232 Tue Smartt Country Pace

young and old, may run. Thus insect pests are
destroyed, the weeds are killed, the ground cultivated
and fertilized. |

BEANS.

A light warm soil is best for beans, and they may be
sometimes grown as a second crop, following any crop
that is off the land by the rst of July, thougheion
early market they must be planted as soon as the soil
gets well warmed up and the danger of frost is past.
It is a desirable crop with which to fit new land for a
crop like melons, strawberries, tomatoes, ete. tue
also a good crop for orchards, as 1t draws much of its
nitrogen from the air. In heavy land the seed should
be covered but lightly, but in light land and in a dry
time they may be covered two or three times their own
thickness. The land should be cultivated frequently,
but not when the leaves are wet, as if done at this time
it is thought to cause a blight upon the leaves and fruit.

Variettes.

«¢

Nearly every variety has its “bush” and “pole”
forms, the former of which requires no poles. The pole
beans, however, generally yield larger crops than the
dwarf or bush forms. Beans are marketed in three
ways, as String,” shell,” sand dry beans. )2neiimsn
are picked while the pods are yet tender; the second are
picked while the seeds are tender yet full grown. All
varieties may be used as dry beans for baking, though
the small, white, yellow-eyed, and red-eyed varieties
are grown especially for this purpose.

Among the best varieties for general use are: String
beans—Dwarf Golden Wax, Early Valentine, Early
Six Weeks; Shell beans—Pole Horticultural, Dwarf
Horticultural, Kentucky Wonder, Burpee’s Dwarf Lima;

Market GarDENING 223

Field beans—Boston Pea, Marrowfat, Red-eyed Pea,
Yellow-eyed Golden-podded. The last is valuable as a
string bean and for winter use.

BEBTs.

Beets are a profitable crop and easily grown. They
may be put into the market bunched from the hot-beds
or greenhouse, or early from the field from transplants
from the house or hot-bed. On rich land with a south-
ern exposure the seed may be sown as soon as the land
will work up fine and mellow, and they are profitable asa
late crop following any crop that matures by the middle
of July. The seed is sown in drills fifteen to eighteen
inches apart and the plants thinned out to two or three
inches apart. The early crop is sold tied in bunches of
five, and sell at from 25 cents to 50 cents per dozen
bunches. To keep up a supply of tender beets for home
use or the market, seed must be sown at two or three
different times, the last sowing to be not later than
August 1st. The late crop should be harvested before
severe freezing weather, and to keep them from wilting
in a dry cellar they should be packed in slightly moist
soil or leaves. The late crop is sold by the bushel,
bringing from 50 cents to $1.00 per bushel.

Varieties.

The kinds that are most grown are Egyptian, Dew-
ing’s Improved, Edmunds, etc. For poultry as a winter
feed the mangel-wurzel is largely grown.

CABBAGES, CAULIFLOWERS, BRUSSELS SPROUTS, ETC.

These being closely related may be treated under one
heading. With the cabbage the development is in the
form of an enlarged bud; in the cauliflower the flower-
stalk is enlarged and fleshy; while in the sprouts small

224 THe Smartt Country Pace

solid buds are formed in the axil of the leaves.” They
are all gross feeders and all do well when planted in
new, rich, moist soil—+.e., land recently in turf.

For the early crop of cabbages the plants are started
under glass, the aim being to have large, well-hardened
plants ready to put out as soon as the danger of severe
freezing is past, an ordinary frost not injuring them if
well hardened, though frequent freezing and thawing
would do so. The land should be made rich with stable

Fic. 79—Late Cabbage, following Strawberries. Blackberry Field
in the Distance.

manure or fertilizer containing a large amount of potash.

No crop is more benefited by frequent cultivation
than the cabbage group, and in the field they may be
so planted that the horse may do all of this work until
the leaves cover the ground and would be broken off
by the cultivator.

The early crop is grown so as to be marketed from
July to September, and the late crop in October to
midwinter (Fig. 79). The large-growing kinds are

Marker GarRDENING — ’ 225.

planted three to three and one-half feet, and the smaller
two to three feet apart. In the local market they are
sold by the piece, but they are shipped in barrels, the
weight being about too pounds per barrel, and they
sell for from 50 cents to $1.50 per barrel. Cabbages
are wintered in trenches or in cold cellars. The trench
is made in light soil and on a slope. First a deep fur-
row is plowed at the top of the slope and the heads on
the stump, with the outer leaves pulled off, are placed
in an upright position in this furrow, the soil being
pressed firmly under the head. Then another furrow
is plowed, throwing the soil up against the first row,
and soon until all are ‘“ trenched.’”’ This should not
be done until freezing weather, and if the weather should
be warm after they are trenched only a light covering
of soil should be put over the head, until the frost is
an inch or two thick. As the weather grows colder
more covering must be applied, but it requires good
judgment to cover just enough but not so much as to
cause decay. From this trench the cabbages may be
taken out at any time during the winter or mild days,
and trimmed for market.

Varieties.

For early market—Etampes, Early Jersey Wakefield,
Early Summer. For second early market—Winnig-
stadt, all seasons. For late market—Danish Ball
Head, Flat Dutch, Late Drumhead, Purple Drumhead,
Improved Savoy.

The Cauliflower.

The cauliflower requires practically the same treat-
ment as the cabbage as to soil and cultivation, but
needs more care in starting the seed and a richer soil.
A moist seed-bed of fine rich soil must be provided and

15

226 Tue Smatt Country PLace

the seeds covered but lightly with fine soil. If the bed
is much exposed to sun or drying winds, a sheet of
cheesecloth or burlap should be stretched over the bed
during the dryest part of the day, until the seeds are
well up, or a light covering of fine sphagnum may be
sifted over them. More care is required in transplant-
ing the cauliflower than the cabbage, but otherwise the
cultural treatment is the same. When the heads begin
to form the outside leaves are drawn together and tied
with a soft string or raffia to keep the heads white.
They must be marketed while solid and are packed in
bushel or barrel boxes so as not to injure one another,
one layer only in a box. From four to six are packed in
the bushel box and from ten to fifteen in the large boxes.
Cauliflower sells at from 5 to 25 cents per head, thus
making it a profitable crop where one has just the
right conditions for the growth.

Varteties.

The varieties most grown are Early Snowball, Dwarf
Erfurt, and Le Normand’s Short-stem.

Brussels Sprouts.

Many people are fond of these little “bud cabbages,”’
and in large markets they are in good demand. They
require the same treatment as the cabbage. For mar-
ket they are picked as they mature, the lowest first and
the others as they come to maturity, and are sold by the
bushel to the wholesaler, to be retailed by the quart or
half-peck.

Varieties.
Dreer’s Select Matchless and Long Island Half-dwarf
are the more popular kinds now cultivated.

Market GARDENING 2279,

CARROTS.

This crop is grown for table use and for feeding cattle
and horses. It is one of those crops the planting of
which may be put off until all other crops are in the
ground, or it may be planted at the time of planting
beets, parsnips, and onions; but the early sown crop
will be too tough and woody for table use in winter.
When sown late the growth is largely made during
September and October, and they are then very crisp and
tender, just right for table use, byt the crop will not be as
large as when they are sownearly. The soil best suited to
the growth of the carrot is a deep, sandy loam, made rich
by a liberal dressing of stable manure plowed under and
a little fertilizer sown broadcast just before the sowing.
The seed is sown in rows fifteen to eighteen inches
apart, or in beds of three rows one foot apart and three
feet between the beds, so that the horse cultivator may
be run through them frequently. The plants are thinned
out to two inches apart. The size most desired for table
use is from one to two inches in diameter, which sell for
Bo to 75 cents per bushel. For stock feed they sell, for
from $10 to $15 per ton.

Varieties.

The variety most grown for stock feed and table use is
the Danvers Intermediate, and for the table alone Early
Short-horn.

CELERY.

This crop is not generally profitable except upon deep
moist land like strong grass land or reclaimed swamps,
though if the land is made very rich with a heavy dress-
ing of stable manure it may be grown in a cool moist
season upon a deep sandy loam. It is grown as a second
crop following strawberries, potatoes, early beets, or

*

228 Tue SMALL Country PLace

any other crop that is off the land before the first of
August. It is often grown among onions, every fifth
row among this crop is omitted when the seed is sown
and later set with celery plants, or the seed is sown in
the row. Plants are generally started in the green-
house or frames, or sown in a sheltered place outside,
about the first of April. The -seed is very fine =am@
requires only a very light covering, and the surface of
the bed must not become dry until the seedlings become
well rooted. This is prevented by covering the bed
with a sheet of cheesecloth, which prevents the soil
from being washed when watering, or by sifting over the
seed a thin covering of fine sphagnum moss. When the
seeds begin to germinate so as to slightly raise the cloth
it is removed and the bed kept shaded for a day or two
until the plants get well rooted. The seedling plants are
transplanted, when the third leaf appears, two or
three inches apart.

For early market the plants are set in the fieldithe
last of May or early June, and for the late crop they
may be set as'late as August ist‘1f the soil is tien ame
moist. In extremely dry weather, frequent cultivation
must be given or water applied. Plants that are not
growing as desired may often be started into vigorous
srowth by plowing a furrow away from each side,
scattering a little nitrate of soda or fine poultry drop-
pings into it and turning it back again.

Celery is prepared for market by first blanching the
stalks. This is done in two ways—by boards set up
against each side of the rows and held in place by
stakes, or by banking with soil. The latter method is
thought to produce a better quality, but is much more
expensive than the former.

In banking with soil, the plants are grasped with both
hands and drawn closely together while some fine dirt

Market GarDENING 229

is packed about them, holding them in place until more
soil can be banked against them. When properly
blanched the plants are dug up, the roots cut off close
up to the stalks, the outer leaves pulled off, and two or
three plants tied together for a bunch. This is sold at
from 75 cents to $2 per dozen bunches, depending upon
the quality and supply. Immense quantities of celery
are grown on the reclaimed meadows about Kalamazoo,
Michigan, and in other similar soils, but the demand is
increasing faster than the supply.

Celery is stored in winter in cold cellars and in pits.
Any cellar where the temperature can be kept nearly
down to 32° will keep celery if properly packed. A
celery ‘“‘pit,’’ a cheap structure, is made partly below
ground by setting up posts about two feet high upon
which a roof is placed; the sides are double boarded
and the soil from the inside thrown out and used to
bank the outside, thus making the inside walls three to
four feet high. When the pit is ready to receive the
celery the plants are dug, the outside leaves pulled off,
and the plants then packed closely with moist soil about
the roots. Success in storing celery depends much upon
the skill of the grower in keeping a low even tempera-
ture. As cold weather with danger of freezing comes on
more covering may be needed over the roof and sides of
the pit. Thermometers should be hung inside and out,
and should be frequently consulted. At the North,
celery must be in the pit in average seasons by Novem-
ber 15, but one must be ready to put it in two weeks
earlier should cold weather come on. When skilfully
managed celery may be kept in a pit until April rst.

Varieties.

Among the leading varieties are the Golden Self-
blanching, Grant Parcal, and Boston Market. The lat-

230 Tue Smatt Country Pace

ter, while of the best quality, is rather difficult to grow,
as it is subject to the celery leaf-blight.

SWEET Corn.

Sweet corn is grown more as a farm-garden crop than
as a market-garden crop. Only one crop can be grown on
the land where corn is cultivated, as it takes nearly the
entire season for it to grow to maturity. It makes a good
crop with which to reseed land that has been long in
cultivation, or to, break up coarse land and ft it.ton
market-garden crops. Sweet corn is largely grown near
canning factories, and the fodder is utilized in making
milk. The early crop is generally the most profitable,
and a warm southern exposure and a rich warm soil is
necessary to produce this. The land should be plowed
the fall before and again in the spring and thoroughly
fitted. If planted very early, furrow out three feet each
way, making the furrows rather deep. Then at the in-
tersections of the furrows place one or two shovelfuls of
fine heating horse manure. If this is very dry or the land
is not decidedly moist, tread it down and cover with
two or three inches of fine soil and plant six to eight
kernels in each hill. Cover very lightly if the soil is wet,
but an meh or more if dry, and press the soil imag
about the kernels.

There is not much gained in very early planting
unless the soil is well warmed. by the sun or stable
manure, but a crop may sometimes be planted as early
as May 1st at the North with the chance of its escaping
late frosts, in which case it will be very profitable. A
second planting should follow this in a week, which
often will mature nearly as early as the first.

Frequent cultivation must be given, and if the weeder
is used several times after the cultivator the crop may
be grown without the use of the hand-hoe.

Market GARDENING 231

Varieties.

Many varieties of sweet corn are found in the market
but the one best known and in demand should be grown.
Among the best are the Crosby, Excelsior, Country
Gentleman, Golden Bantam, and Evergreen.

LETTUCE.

This is a home-garden crop, yet is one that is largely
grown for market the year around. From November
to May at the North it comes from the greenhouses and
frames, or from the South, where it may be grown out-
side the year around. To keep up a supply of plants
seeds must be sown every two or three weeks.

The varieties most in demand are those that form a
solid head like that of the cabbage, and to obtain this
plants must have a space of from six to eight inches each
way. They generally head better if transplanted once
or twice.

The crop is marketed in bushel boxes or sometimes
for long-distance shipment in barrels, and sells at from
25 cents per dozen during the summer to $1 and $1.50
when the supply is scarce.

Varieties.

Among the best varieties are Big Boston, Black-
seeded Tennis Ball, Salamander, Grand Rapids, and
Hittinger.

MELONS.

This crop is of but local interest, as it can only be
successfully grown in favored regions. In almost all
old settled sections of the country it is a very uncertain
crop on account of blight and the attacks of insects.
For the best results a rather thin new soil is needed,
made rich with manure placed in the hill, which should

292 THe Smatt Country PLace

be raised a little above the level to carry off the surface
water quickly. The seeds should not be planted until
the ground is well warmed, in this section not until the
last of May or early June. If grown in large areas the
work may be done largely by the horse and the crop
grown at small cost.

Varieties.

The varieties most grown are: Muskmelons—Rocky-
ford, Paul Rese, Miller’s Cream. Watermelons—Sweet-
heart, Kolb’s Gem, Alabama Sweet.

ONIONS.

If one has deep sandy loam free from stones, and not
too full of weed seeds, this crop will be found profitable.
For the best results the land should be plowed in the
fall, and if a light dressing of manure be turned under
it will insure early working in the spring. In the spring
the land may either be plowed or deeply harrowed, ap-
plying any good vegetable fertilizer at the rate of from
one-half to one ton per acre. The land must be worked
fine and mellow, and if there is any coarse material on
the surface it should be raked off so as not to clog the
seed-sower. The seed should be sown as early in the
spring as possible. The cultivation required consists
in running the wheel- or scuffle-hoe so frequently that
no small weeds will become established between the
rows, and in hand-pulling all weeds growing in the rows.
Weeds can be most cheaply killed when they are just
bursting through the soil. If they are brought to the
surface at this time with the hoe or rake, or covered
with a little soil, that is all that is needed.

When the tops begin to turn yellow they should be
pulled and thrown in thin windrows and frequently
turned until dry.

Market GARDENING 232

In very wet weather it is sometimes necessary to
move the crop to some dry barn floor, shed or loft, for
when new roots begin to form on mature bulbs it is very
difficult to stop continued growth. To prepare for mar-
ket the dry tops are cut off with scissors or sharp knives,
the onions sorted, and put in sacks. The yield varies
greatly under different conditions of soil and season,
from too to tooo bushels per acre being produced.
Onions are not injured by light freezing and may be
kept over winter in a cold, dry cellar or any cold, dry
room that does not freeze. They are also kept by plac-
ing in a cold loft, freezing them lightly and covering
with hay, when they will remain frozen or thaw out
very gradually, but should not be handled when frozen.

Varieties.

Among the varieties most grown are the Danvers Yel-
low Globe, Red Wethersfield, Southport White Globe,
Prize Taker.

PEAS.

This is another crop adapted to the farm garden. It
is generally grown on cheap land and with commercial
fertilizer. The income from the crop is not large, but
as it can be grown cheaply when it is harvested early
there is a good profit from it for the time and money in-
vested. Early, warm land sloping to the south, should
be selected, and plowed in the fall and again in the
spring, unless it be turf land, in which case the wheel-
harrow run deeply will suffice, making it fine and mel-
low as early as possible. The seed is better planted
with a corn-planter or other seed drill, as the plants will
then be in better line and more easily cultivated with the
horse or hand wheel-hoe. The fertilizer can be drilled
in with the seed with an attachment to the seed drill.

As soon as the plants break through the ground a

234 Tue Smatt Country PLace

cultivator with wings or a very small plow should be
run between the rows, throwing a little soil over them,
and then the weeder or rake run over all. This will
kill all small weeds and level down the rows. In a few
days or a week the weeder should be run again, on a
bright drying day, then the winged cultivator or small
plow, throwing fine soil close up to the plants. If after
another week a more heavy furrow of soil be thrown
up against the plants all of the weeds will be smothered
so that no hand work will be needed unless it be to
pull a few large weeds in the rows.

Dwarf varieties that require no bushing are most
grown, but the tall kinds will generally yield larger
crops, though the expense of growing is greater.

Wire poultry netting eighteen inches or two feet wide
will be found very satisfactory for supporting the tall-
erowing sorts, and if taken from the stakes as soon. as
the crop is harvested, rolled up and put in a dry place
until the next season, it will last a lifetime. Peas are
marketed in bushel boxes and sell for from 50 cents to
$2.50 per bushel, according to season and supply.

Varieties.

Among the best varieties are: Dwarf—Alaska, Nott’s
Excelsior, Surprise, Premium Gem, American Wonder.
Tall—Champion of England, ese Telephone,
White Marrowfat.

POTATOES.

The potato is properly a farm crop but is used by
market gardeners as a rotation crop and to fit rough land
for crops that require a fine soil. Under the best con-
ditions from 200 to 4oo bushels are grown upon an acre,
and when the work is largely done with the horse as it
should be there may be considerable profit in the crop.
The ideal conditions for its best growth are a deep,

Market GARDENING peng

rather moist loam, well underdrained, with a clover
sod turned under in the fall and. shallow plowed
or thoroughly harrowed in the spring. About ten
bushels of seed per acre is planted, cut into pieces
of one or two eyes, and the earlier this is planted
after the ground will work up fine and mellow the
better, as there will be less trouble from insects, and
very early potatoes generally sell higher than the aver-
age of the main crop which comes on later. For large
areas the seed is planted and fertilizers distributed by
the planter, of which there are many kinds that do good
work. From one-half to one ton of high-grade potato
fertilizer is used per acre, sowing one half with the seed
and the balance when the plants are just breaking
through the ground, and at the first cultivating. At
this time a winged cultivator should be run between
the rows, covering the plants and smothering all small
weeds. In a day or two the weeder may be run and the
field smoothed down, and again in a few days or a week
the cultivator should be run followed by the weeder,
when another lot of small weeds will be destroyed. The
next cultivation should be done with the cultivator
with winged teeth, or a small double-mouldboard plow
or potato-hiller, throwing fine soil up close against the
plants. If the cultivator is run between the rows once
or twice after this to keep the soil fine and mellow, and
the hiller once more, this will take care of all the weeds
unless the land is very weedy. A large weed here and
there may have to be pulled to prevent stocking the
land with seed for the next season.

When the potato-bugs appear the tops should be
sprayed with the Bordeaux mixture and Paris green, to
kill the bugs and prevent the blight. A second and
even a third spraying may be needed if the weather is
favorable for the growth of bugs and blight.

236 Tue Smatt Country Pace

When the tops have fallen down and begin to turn
yellow, the crop may be dug and sold, or stored if one
has a cool, dry place in which to put them, but they
are as likely to keep well in the ground as in a moist,
warm cellar. Where there is a tendency to decay,
dusting with air-slacked lime or plaster to take up the
moisture will often stop this tendency. For digging
large crops the potato-digger will be found very eco-
nomical, though it requires a very heavy team to draw
it, especially if the ground is moist and heavy. They
should be dug in bright, sunny weather, but not put into
bins until well cooled off. Potatoes keep best at a tem-
perature of 40°. A continued temperature of 33° to 35°
often chills the potato so that they become sweet and
do not sell as readily as when kept at a higher temper-
ature. The price this crop sells for varies from 50 cents
to $1.50 per bushel, the average for New England being

about 80 cents. Varieties.

Among the standard kinds are the following in order
of earliness: Irish Cobbler, Bouvee, Beauty of Hebron,
Early Ohio, Rural New Yorker, Carmans No. 1.

RHUBARB.

This is an early and often a profitable crop on a warm,
rich soil with a southern exposure, and one that may be
forced by placing sash over the beds in the spring or
in the winter by putting the roots into a warm cellar—
a single old plant will often make a dozen new ones.
To obtain large stalks, roots containing one or two buds
(Fig.. 34), are set out in the spring or early summer
and kept growing all summer, and in the fall the ground
is covered with six to eight inches of stable manure to
prevent deep freezing. In the spring the coarsest of
this should be removed and the finer spaded in about +
the roots on a bright, sunny day. This will cause an

Market GARDENING 227

early start and rapid growth, and the early out-door
crop often sells for from five to ten cents per pound.
Miticrerop may be: forced under: the benches’ of 4
greenhouse or in a warm house or stable cellar. Strong
young plants of two to three buds are dug just before
the ground freezes and with a little soil upon them
packed upon the north side of a wall or shed to freeze.
After freezing for a few weeks they are packed closely
under the bench, in the cold frame, or in the cellar with
a little soil about them, where they are to be forced.
A temperature of about. 40° should be kept up at first,
gradually increasing it until it runs to about 50° at
ment and oo" to yo° during the. day. No light. 1s
needed, the stalks being longer and of a more delicate
color in darkness than in light. Rhubarb is sold by the
pound, in some markets, tied in one, two and three
pound bunches, but in others it is sold loosely in bushel

boxes.
SQUASHES.

Squashes, like melons, require a great deal of heat
but are not as much subject to disease as the latter.
It is a sort of chance crop, for if planted very early it is
often destroyed by bugs or maggots at the roots, or if
planted laté to escape these pests. the crop is often cut
off by frosts or fails to ripen so as to keep well. Itisa
crop that can be cheaply grown, and when it does escape
the many chances it is often a very profitable one. For
the best results newly turned over turf land is generally
selected. It is deeply plowed, worked very fine and
mellow, and furrowed in squares 6 x 6 feet. Manure or
fertilizer is placed at the intersections and thoroughly
worked in, raising the hill a few inches above the level
that surface water may run off quickly. From five to
men seeds are planted‘ each hill from the rst to the
toth of June for New England, covering them one-

238 THE Smatt Country PLace

fourth inch deep in moist land and one-half inch if the
soil is thin and dry. As soon as the seeds break through
the ground the plants should be dusted thoroughly with
plaster with a little Paris green in it to keep off the
insects, striped beetles and black squash-bugs. The
winged cultivator should be put through the rows diag-
onally, throwing the soil up close to the plants. As soon
as the insects are through working all weak plants are
pulled out, leaving three in each hill. The second cul-
tivation may be with the plow lengthwise of the rows,
throwing more soil against the plants, and the third also
with the plow, throwing up more soil. If the land is
very weedy a little hand hoeing may be needed just
about the hills, and before the plants get to running
much the cultivator should be run diagonally again,
and possibly lengthwise between, to kill small weeds
and keep the soil well stirred. No more care will be
needed unless it be to pull a few large weeds in the hills
that may have escaped the cultivator.

Squashes must be harvested before frosty weather, as
even a temperature just above freezing may injure their
keeping qualities. When the danger of frost is pro-
nounced, a temperature of 45° at.5 P.M. and goime
down, squashes are generally thrown in piles, if they
cannot be carted to the barn or shed, and covered with
the vines, and the following day carted to some place
where they may lie in the sun during the day amd be
covered at night. |

When the ripening process in the sun is completed
or danger of freezing is past, they are placed in a dry,
warm shed, loft or cellar.- They will keep best ata
temperature of 52° and a very dry atmosphere in a dry
shed, squash house, chamber, or furnace cellar.

The crop is sold in barrels or bushel boxes, the price
ranging from one-half cent to two cents per pound.

Market GARDENING 239

Varieties.

Among the best varieties for market and home use
are: -Delicious, Hubbard, Golden Hubbard, Boston
Marrow, and Essex.

TOMATOES.

This is a market-garden, a farm-garden and a can-
ning crop. It is grown largely to supply city markets,
and in some sections in large areas to supply canneries.
For the best results land upon which some well manured
crop was grown the previous season is selected. It is
plowed in the fall and again in the spring, and made
ready for the plants from May 1 to June 1, according to
location. The land is generally furrowed or marked
bit3= 5 10 4x6 feet; accordme to soil and variety
grown.

Plants for the early crop are grown under glass,
started from seed from February to April 1, and trans-
planted at least twice until they occupy a space 6 x 6
inches in the bed. When the plants are ready for setting
out a small amount of fertilizer is scattered about each
hill, a spadeful of soil taken out, the plant taken up with
a spade, dropped into the hole, and soil pressed firmly
about the roots. A moist day should be selected if
possible or the plants set out from 4 to 6 P.m., that they
may have the night in which to recover from the effects
of transplanting. For a few days before moving water
should be withheld from the plants to cause them to
harden and turn a little yellow, but the bed should be
thoroughly wet down a few hours before the plants are
taken up, to cause the soil to adhere to the roots.
Thorough cultivation should be kept up both ways
between the plants with the horse as long as the plants
stand upright, and after they begin to fall down large
weeds must be hand pulled.

248° THe Smatt Country PLace

When sold to canneries the crop is harvested in
bushel boxes and sent without much packing, but for
city markets it is carefully wiped, sorted and packed
in layers the stem end down, thus presenting a beauti-
ful appearance. Prices vary according to variety and
season from 50 cents to $2 or more per bushel. Cannery
prices are made for the season and range from 30 cents
to 70 cents per bushel.

Varieties.

Among the best varieties are the Acme, Beauty, Para- —
gon, New Stone, Dwarf Champion, and Dwarf Stone.

TURNIPS.

This is a cheap crop generally grown on land cleared
of other crops late in the season. In good soil the
English varieties will mature when the seed is sown as
late as the 15th of August. It may be planted after
beets, peas, early sweet corn, cabbages, strawberries,
etc., and with little or no labor large crops may be
produced which are valuable for stock and poultry
feed, and to a limited extent for table use. They do
best when sown in drills but good crops are often
grown when sown broadcast. Superphosphate is espe-
cially valuable for the crop. The Swede, French and
Ruta Baga turnips require a longer season than the
English varieties. The seeds must be sown as soon as
July 1, more cultivation given, and the plants thinned
to four to six inches apart in the drill.. The latter are
grown for cattle and sheep, and to a limited extent for
table use.

Varieties.

Among the best English varieties are White Milan,
White Egg, White-top Strap-leaf, and Red-top Strap-
leaf.

CHAPTER, | XcKI

Pou.ttry KEEPING

OULTRY, fruit growing and market gardening

is one of the best combinations for earning a

living on a small place in the country. All

three require close and constant attention. Some one

must be at home all the time that the work be promptly

done when needed, as a little neglect at the critical time
may result in great loss with either.

The routine work of fruit growing and market gar-
dening was discussed in previous chapters and it re-
mains for us in this chapter to outline the work of
poultry growing.

The poultry interest of the country is greater than
that of any other one branch of agriculture, the prod-
ucts amounting in a single year to over $360,000,000.
It has grown to this vast volume in a comparatively
short time, and there is hardly a country home where
hens, ducks, geese, or pigeons are not kept. Many
families produce their own supply of eggs and poultry,
others pay their grocery bills from the products of the
poultry yard, and still others obtain their entire sup-
port from their poultry; and there are large establish-
ments where thousands of fowls are kept and large
capital is invested in the equipment of extensive poul-
try houses and yards.

A noticeable feature of the country poultry yard are the
fruit trees planted in it for the shelter of the fowls and
the production of large fruit (Fig. 61), raspberries, black-

16 241

242 Tue Smatt Country PLAce

berries and even grapes and asparagus. Poultry houses
and yards serve as a good location for rotation of crops.
Many yards may be found where small colony houses

Fic. 80—Movable Summer Colony-House for Fifteen Hens; Open View.

(Figs. 80, 81) and frames are moved to new locations
every week, and where after a time the land covered
by them is plowed up and produces famous yields of

Fic. 81—Movable Summer Colony-House for Fifteen Hens; Closed View.

almost all farm and garden crops. The droppings,
too, of the fowls, which should be frequently gathered
from under the roosts, are especially rich in soluble
nitrogen and other valuable elements, and are used in
place of quick-acting commercial fertilizers.

ee |

Pouttry KeEeEpine 242

The Location.

A light sandy soil with a southern exposure well
sheltered from the north and west is generally selected
for poultry, but the most important condition is a
dry soil and quick surface drainage. Very steep hilly
land should be avoided, as in heavy showers the soil is
often badly washed and houses and yards much in-
jured. Stony land and land covered with brush may be
used as ranges, but if fruit trees are to be planted the

Fic. 82—Poultry in the Raspberry Patch.

brush must be first destroyed by digging out or fre-
quent cutting and close feeding by the fowls. Fruit
planted in poultry yards must be adapted to the soil
occupied. Thus, peaches must be planted on rather
light soil well elevated, with somewhat of a northern
or western exposure. Plums may be grown under
similar conditions, doing well on a heavier soil if in full
exposure to sunlight and air. The apple and pear suc-
ceed upon any good grass land, but it must be well
underdrained, while the quince will grow in a very moist
soil or one like that suited to the apple and pear. Rasp-

244 Tue Smart Country Pace

berries may be grown upon almost any kind of soil in
the poultry yard (Fig. 82), if not too wet, but the
plants must be allowed to reach mature growth before
the fowls are let in, and during the early summer they
must not be allowed to feed on the new canes so as to
injure them. With the rapid growth of weeds and
other plants in the rich soil of the poultry yard this is
not likely to happen, unless unusually large numbers of
fowls are kept in small enclosures.

The business of poultry growing may be started
from very small beginnings. A few settings of eggs
and some hens bought in the spring or borrowed from
a neighbor may serve as a nucleus. From each setting
with close attention and care one may expect ten to
twelve chicks and a small flock may be almost entirely
supported from the waste of the table and the products
of the garden.

One may start in this business in a more extensive
way by the purchase of a small flock or the use of the
incubator. If one has a warm, dry cellar or small room
where the temperature runs evenly, and has the time to
watch it closely until he becomes skilled in running it,
the 50, I00, 200 or more egg incubators will give a
larger start, but the first expense for incubator and
feed for the chicks will be considerable before any
income may be expected from broilers, or poultry. One
should begin and proceed in a moderate way until all
the details of the business are well understood, for few
lines of business require such exact knowledge and
prompt treatment as poultry keeping.

PouLtrRY HOousgEs.

The first move in poultry raising after the location
has been decided upon is the kind and number of houses
required. Expensive houses are not needed but they

Povuttry Kererpine 24.5

must be warm in winter, yet well ventilated. A barn-
or shed-cellar opening to the south makes an ideal
place for small flocks of fowls, but it must be dry. It
may be kept open in all but stormy weather, if a warm
place is provided for the fowls at night or in extremely
cold weather. Curtains of burlap or loosely woven
cloth will answer the purpose of glass for doors or win-
dows in houses that are closely built.

Fic. 83—A Modern Poultry House with Scratching Shed
Between Two Pens.

Of special houses there are two or three types in gen-
eral use—the colony house where twenty to fifty fowls
are kept (a very satisfactory colony is shown in Fig.
83), the long range of houses where the same num-
ber are kept in separate pens, and the large, high and
well lighted house where several hundred are kept
together. The small colony house is most cheaply built
from the fact that light and cheap building material
may be used, but it is exposed to the weather on all
four sides and therefore needs the best possible protec-

246 THe Smatt Country PLace

tion from cold. The long range of houses with many
pens joined is also an economical house to build, as the
pens or sections are divided by wire netting or curtains,
thus reducing the amount of wall space for each pen.
This house also has the advantage that in caring for the
fowls in stormy or cold weather one can pass from pen
to pen without going out of doors. The main advan-
tage of the large house with a large number of fowls
in one room is in the feeding and care, especially where
the dry mash system is practised. Here dry food may
be placed in slatted troughs, where all the fowls may
help themselves. Enough dry grain may be scattered
in the litter for all at once, and a sufficient supply of
water be provided. Then the studs being high there is
a better: circulation: “of air. than. there is’ im “smaller
buildings.

Building the Houses. *

At the North poultry houses must be built so as to be
warm in the coldest weather, yet the fowls do much
better if allowed to run a part of each day in a dry
cold place where they must scratch to keep warm.
In the living room the temperature should range from

40° to 60°, according to whether the sun shines or nof, ©

but water should not freeze much during the night.
A warm house is cheaply obtained by using lining paper
over rough boards. Many people put building paper on
the sides of their hen houses, but leave the spaces be-
tween the rafters without the paper, and when cold
weather comes on the cold air drops down from these
surfaces and the houses are damp and cold. The soil,
too, close up to the houses freezes and the frost works
in under the building and we have a cold, damp floor for
the fowls. To prevent this a space three or four feet
from the walls of the building must be covered with

ee

Poutrry Kereprne 247

from six inches to a foot of hay, straw or leaves to keep
frost from working in through the soil. For inside
covering ordinary building paper or tarred paper may
be used and is comparatively inexpensive, but the
heavier roofing papers like rubberoid, flintcoat, amelite,
paroid, etc., are more economical for the roofs and out-
side walls. These if painted with tar or asphalt make
very durable roofs. Shingles with building paper under
them make a very warm and desirable covering for
either roofs or sides of poultry houses.

CARE OF THE FOWLS.

Cleanliness and an abundance of light, fresh air and
water are the most important requirements for success-
ful poultry keeping, but closely following these an
abundance and variety of food must be given with a
good place for exercise and a warm place in which to
roost in very cold weather.

The houses should be frequently cleaned out, and the
roosts or droppings boards be cleaned every two or three
days if a large number of fowls are kept. Scattering a
little dry dust like sifted coal ashes or land plaster over
the droppings will make this cleaning unnecessary more
frequently than once or twice a week unless the fowls
get into the droppings and scratch them about. The
droppings should be placed in barrels and kept perfectly
dry until sold or put upon the land. A coating of lime
wash should be put over the entire inner surface of the
house two or three times every year, adding a little
dissolved copper sulphate and kerosene to prevent the
germs of disease and lice and mites from increasing. An
ounce of the copper sulphate dissolved in hot water
and a half pint of kerosene will be sufficient for eight
to ten quarts of wash.

248 Tue Smart Country Prace

RAISING CHICKENS.

For the most profit in this work one must make a
start early in the season. A warm house or open cellar
is a necessity. Eggs must be set under hens or put into
the incubator in March or earlier, and to produce fertile
eggs, which is the chief difficulty at this season of the
year, the hens must have a great variety of food and
be allowed to run outside
whenever the weather is
favorable.

It is difficult teemme
hens that want to set at
this time, but with the in-
cubator (Fig. 84) ones
more or less independent
of this condition.

If hens are’ used, ney
should be set in a room or
space where other” hens
will not interfere wita
Fig. 84—A Model Incubator; One of them. A large number

= Bene eo ages may be kept in one room
if each has a separate box that may be kept closed
except at such times as they are to be let out for
water and feed. An old strawberry crate makes
a good box for the nest. As soon as the eggs begin
to hatch the chicks should be removed from each
hen and taken to some place beyond the hearing of
the other setting hens. A large number may be given
to the hens which are to take care of them (twenty
or even thirty chicks may be taken care of by one
hen if in a warm and roomy place), or the chickens
may be placed in brooders (Fig. 85) in which artificial
heat is supplied by a lamp or in large brooder heated by

Pouttry KeEEpine 249

steam or hot-water pipes. There are many different
kinds of small brooders many of which are very satis-
factory, or one may make a simple one that will do very
satisfactory work, the heat coming from a kerosene
lamp supplied with the Trench or some other burner,
the flame of which will not increase in size as the lamp
and surroundings rise in temperature. A regular, even
temperature must be kept up both in incubator and
brooder.

For success
with the incu-
bator one needs
a warm and
fairly dry cellar,
with an even
Lemperature,
that: the’ heat
and moisture in

4 Fic. 85—A Model Brooder, where the Chickens
the hatchin g are Kept After Being Taken from Incubator.

chamber may be kept at the required point. Success in
running these ‘‘ wooden hens’’ depends much upon how
skilfully one can run the lamp, regulate the moisture,
and care for the other parts of the machine. This must
be learned with each kind of incubator, many of which
are to be found in the market. Full directions accom-
pany each machine and should be carefully followed.
The one shown in the picture is largely and successfully
in use. As with the hen the chicks should be removed
from the incubator as soon as they hatch and carefully
protected in the brooder.

Feed for Chicks.

No food need be given the chicks the first twenty-four
hours, but fresh water should be before them in very
shallow pans or watering fountains where they cannot

250 Tue Smartt Country Pace

get themselves wet. Dry feed should be given them for
some time, some poultrymen even feeding only dry feed
at all times. Chick food, a mixture of cracked grain,
corn, oatmeal, and small seeds, can be had at all supply
stores and is safe to use, but expensive; or a mixture of
fine cracked corn, oatmeal, wheat shorts, etc., may be
fed. Where but few chicks are kept bread crumbs will
answer very well for the first few days. Fresh and clean
water should be before them at all times, as well as fine
sharp sand or grit, and milk will supply the animal food
needed.

There is much variation in the practice of different
poultrymen as to feed, some giving each day a mash of
soft food made of a mixture of ground grains, potatoes,
scraps, and other materials, while others feed only dry

feed. The latter practice seems to be growing; it is a

safe one to follow, and reduces the labor in caring for

the flock to the minimum. Young chicks should be fed -

what they will eat up clean three or four times each
day until they can run about vigorously, when three
times and finally twice a day, will be sufficient. Care
must be taken that they have warm and clean quarters,
especially at night. If allowed to huddle together, as
they are inclined to do, their lodging place soon becomes
foul and unhealthy. Early hatched chickens, those
that come out in March and April, will be large enough
to sell as broilers in June and July, and will often sell
at from 30 cents to 50 cents per pound, according to the
supply and quality, thus giving some income from the
investment and reducing the cost of keeping a large
flock of rapidly growing fowls. After the season for
broilers at good prices is past, it is the best practice to
separate the cockerels from the pullets and fatten them
as quickly as possible for poultry, though, when care-

a — “a

Povuttry Keerpine 251

fully fed, poultry of larger size will often sell profitably
during the fall and early winter.

During the summer chickens do best if allowed full
freedom, and by growing such crops as asparagus,
(fie, S60). fruit trees and the bush fruits only, a full
range may be given by keeping them in small colony
houses (Figs. 80, 81) at night. They cannot be given
range where succulent market-garden crops are grown
unless these crops are fenced in.

Fic. 86—Poultry in the Asparagus Field.

Among the fruits mentioned fowls will destroy all
kinds of insects, will more or less cultivate the ground,
and add much to the fertility of the soil. If the colony
houses are placed on open land and are frequently
moved, as they should be, areas sufficiently large for
cultivation would soon be covered, and very large crops
of vegetables or fruits could be grown on this in rotation.
If the colony houses are large they should be built on
shoes or skids, so as to be moved with horses. In loca-
tions at some distance from the main building a sharp

252 THe Smart Country Prace

watch must be kept for hawks, crows, owls, skunks,
weasels and stray cats, to see that the chickens are not
taken during the day and have a safe place at night.

Production of Eggs.

For the production of eggs even more care is required
than for the production of poultry. In preparing the
pullets for laying the cockerels should be removed from
the pens except one to each twelve to fifteen pullets.
If possible give them full range and feed a variety of
grains, scraps, and fresh bone, with an abundance of
grit, oyster shells, and charcoal where they can readily
get at it. Light, dry and airy quarters must be pro-
vided and kept scrupulously clean. If the pullets are
kept in close quarters fresh green feed of some kind,
erass, weeds, cabbage, or other wastes from the garden
must be supplied, and some kind of litter on the floor in
which whole grains may be scattered.

As with the production of poultry, the practice of
feeding the dry or wet mash varies, with perhaps the
advantage in favor of the former. The dry mash is
made by mixing ground oats, cornmeal, shorts, gluten
meal, and scraps in equal quantities and placing this
mixture in slatted troughs or feeders where the fowls
can get at it at all times.

The wet mash is made of more or less of the above
grains often using boiled potatoes, beets, carrots, etc.,
with the mixture. As far as careful comparison of the
two methods has been made, the dry mash has given
the best results especially in houses inclined to Ge
moist, and the labor is greatly reduced. The time of
feeding the wet mash varies, too, with many, the most
general practice being to feed hot mash in the morning. —
But the results of some careful experiments made by
experiment stations indicate that the fowls assimilate

Pouttry KEEPING 2/59

more of the food when the hot mash is fed just before
they go upon the roost at night. Scraps, if not fed in
the mash, should be given two or three times a week or
be kept in slatted troughs all the time, as should be
fresh cut bone and oyster shells. An abundance of fine
gravel, or grit and charcoal should also be supplied.

Roosts.

Roosts should not be placed so high that the heavy
birds will find it difficult to get upon them. If the
roosts are placed high, there should be lower poles upon
which such fowls can easily reach the higher. Round
poles not over two and one-half inches in diameter are
best, as the fowls can hold themselves firmly upon
them. Insects are supposed not to thrive upon sassa-
fras and sweet birch poles, and where these woods are
available they should be used, but any kind of wood
will do if frequently painted over with kerosene with a
little linseed oil in it. The linseed oil does not evaporate
but hardens upon the poles, and when it comes in contact
with the insects destroys them and fills up the crevices
in which they hide. In very cold houses curtained
roosting placés afte often arranged. The curtaims of
burlap may be thrown up in the morning and dropped
at night, or the fowls soon learn to go under them.

Nests.

Nests for laying hens should be in some secluded
place, and are frequently located under the roosts.
This, however, is not a good place unless great care is
taken to clean out often and whitewash with a mixture
containing kerosene. If a passageway is made through
a house, outside the pens, and raised a foot or two above
the level of the floor, nests may be located under the
passageway floor and the eggs taken out through small

SF
ini.
ED,

254 THe Smatt Country PLace

scuttles. When the nests are in some seclusion like the
above the fowls are less liable to eat their eggs or break
them by two or three hens getting into one nest.

BREEDS OF POULTRY.

The value of any breed depends much upon the care
exercised in selecting the breeding stock. Thus a strain
of barred Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, or Wyan-
dotts, may be built up, remarkable for their laying quali-
ties; another for early maturity as broilers, while another
may develop large size for poultry. So, too, by neglect
a great laying strain may soon become poor layers or
slow in maturing. No breed, perhaps, can combine
all the desirable qualities, but it should be the aim of
every grower to select for breeding those fowls that
possess the most desirable qualities. In every flock
there will be chickens that from the first are larger and
more vigorous than others. These should be carefully
removed and given especial attention, with the aim to
produce large fowls. Selection of fowls for laying is
more difficult, but if the flock is not too large we may
select those that begin laying early, and by trap nests
may determine the number of eggs laid by each one.
When it is determined that certain fowls are more pro-
lific layers than others, and of larger size, or more per
fectly marked, they should be marked or separated so
that when the breeding season comes on their eggs may
beruiilized.

The eggs of the different breeds as well as those of the
same breed vary much in size and color, and attention
should be given to this point, for one market prefers a
white egg while in another the dark egg is in demand.
If this process of selection is carried on skilfully for a
few years pedigree stock of high character will be the
result. The breeds most in use in Eastern United

Pouttry KeEepine AG

States are Plymouth Rocks, Wyandotts, Rhode Island
Reds, and Leghorns. The first are a good all-purpose
fowl, being good layers, maturing early, making good
broilers, and when mature dressing to weigh from five
to ten pounds. The Wyandotts and Rhode Island
Reds are of nearly the same size as the Plymouth
mocks sand may be-equal’ to the latter as: layers,
broilers or poultry, but perhaps not quite so well fixed

Fic. 87—A Pigeon Loft.

in character. As egg producers the Leghorns and
Rhode Island Reds seem to have the best reputation.
The Leghorns, however, are small and perhaps not
quite as hardy. White fowls—White Wyandotts, White
Plymouth Rocks, White Leghorns, etc., are very popular,
but possess no peculiar merits above other breeds.

PIGEONS.

A branch of the poultry business that has come into
prominence within a few years is pigeon or squab rais-

256 THe SmaALt Country Piace

ing. Our domestic pigeon breeds very rapidly and from
a single pair one may in a year or two produce a large
flock. They occupy but a small space, being generally
kept in lofts (Fig. 87) or other out-of-the-way places,
or in small houses like the colony houses for hens, with a
flying yard attached. Close attention must be given
them during their nesting season, their quarters must be
kept neat and clean, fresh food and water must be
supplied. The young birds are killed for market about
the time they begin to fly and are sold undressed, bring-
ing from 25 to 50 cents per pair while fancy birds for
breeding purposes sometimes sell for as many dollars.

For “further details as to poultry and its earespae
reader is referred to the Reports of the Department of
Agriculture at Washington and those of the State Ex-
periment Stations, notably those of Maine, Massachu-
setts, and Rhode Island.

CHAP AE RoC hie

Darryinc, THe Famity Horst, anp Bees

HE country home is incomplete without one or
more cows. An abundance of milk and cream
produced by one good cow will supply a large
amount of the nourishment needed for the family,
especially where there are children (as there should be
in every country home), and the cost of keeping need
be very slight if one has a little land for a garden and
pasture, or upon which to grow fodder crops. The
value of the product of a good cow will vary from $50
to $100 per year, and the cost of keeping, not counting
the walter er time in carne for her, need wot be more
than from $30 to $50 or $20 to $30 besides the grain
purchased. (Fig. 8&8.)

When fed upon rich, well cured fodder, like clover,
alfalfa, corn fodder, or well matured ensilage, and good
pasturage in summer, cows will need but little grain,
though a limited amount may be profitably fed.

For the best success the cow stable should be dry and
airy, with an abundance of sunlight. For a single cow
a box stall will be more comfortable, but it will require
more labor to keep it clean than if the animal was tied
to a stanchion. Some sort of a rack should be arranged
to keep the hay from being trampled under foot, but the
bottom of the crib should be on a level with the plat-
form upon which the cow stands so as to be easily
cleaned out. Cows may be kept in pasture from about
May to to October 1s, and south much longer. Where

17 257

258 THE Smatt Country Pace

the area of pasture is small, tying to a bar or tethering-
pole will be found economical.

When feed is short in the pasture, cornstalks, cab-
bage leaves, small squashes, small potatoes, apples, and
other wastes from the garden will help out the food
supply, or small patches of oats and rye, fodder corn,
peas and barley, etc., may be sown at intervals of a
week or two up to August 1. The grain ration required
to supplement the fodder must vary with the quality
of this food. For the production of milk a mixture of

Fic. 88—The Family Cow. Even the Children can care for it.

equal parts of shorts, gluten meal and a little cornmeal
or cottonseed makes a good feed, using from one to five
pounds per day according to the richness of the fodder
used. Fresh, clean and pure water is as important for
the animals on the farm as for the family in the house
who consume their products.

Milking.
With a gentle cow that milks easily any member of
the family may do the milking. Even the children
from ten to fifteen years old may do much of this work.

The process is very simple but requires considerable |
strength of the hand and wrist.

Darryinc, THe Horse, ann Bess 259

Before milking the udder and sides of the cow should
be brushed and wiped clean and if very much soiled be
washed and wiped dry, so that no dirt may fall into the
pail.

The pail is held between the knees, one front and the
opposite rear teat being grasped by the right and left
hand respectively. The thumb and forefinger are closed
so that the milk in the teat cannot flow back into the
bag, and the milk is forced out by the three lower fingers.
A firm, even pressure must be given and the milk drawn
out as rapidly as possible, the last drop being secured if
it can be done without spending too much time in
stripping.

Keeping the Milk.

As soon as drawn the milk should be removed from
the stable, carefully strained through the fine strainer
of the pail and two or three thicknesses of strainer cloth
or cottonwool to remove all particles of foreign matter
that may have fallen in during the milking. After strain-
ing, the milk should be cooled of the animal heat as
quickly as possible in open pans in a refrigerator, in
deep cans in a tank of ice, or in cans suspended in a cold
well.

Breeds.

For ordinary family use or dairy purposes it matters
little what breed is kept, as good and profitable animals
may be found among all breeds. Those most largely in
use for the production of cream and butter are the Jer-
seys and Guernseys, while for a large supply of milk the
Holstein and Ayrshires are much in favor.

As with poultry, the value of any breed for special
products depends much upon the strain, but perhaps in
a lesser degree, for the good qualities are not so quickly
and certainly transmitted and controlled. Thorough-

260 THe Smartt Country Pace

bred stock is much sought by the milk and butter pro-
ducer, and while the average registered stock is gener-
ally better than that unregistered there are many noted
animals that are not even ‘“‘grades’’ unless a long dis-
tance away from that which is registered.

DAIRYING.

Where one has large areas of land in pasture and
suitable for the production of fodder crops, and suitable
buildings, the production of cream and milk for cream-
eries or local or city markets may be profitably carried
on. As with the single cow, one must have light, warm
and well-aired buildings, with adequate space for storing
the needed fodder, and grain, and a receptacle for the
manure where the gases cannot rise into the space occu-
pied by the cows.

A cellar opening on one side on the level with the
surrounding land, well drained and with windows on
at least two opposite sides, is all right for the manure
if an abundance of absorbents is used, the windows kept
open except in extremely cold weather, and the cellar
cleaned out at least twice each year. A better arrange-
ment, however, is where the cattle are kept in a shed
separate from the main barn where the fodder is kept,
and where the manure can be carried outside “and
dumped upon a cemented platform, to be carried to the
fields before a large amount accumulates. If possible
the foundation gutters, platforms, cribs, etc., should be
of concrete, so that they may be-cleaned and washed
frequently with the least possible labor.

At the present high price of grain there can be but
little if any profit in making milk at contractor’s prices
unless one can grow cheaply the necessary fodder and
at least a ‘part of the grain. The hay crop is very expen-
sive and a cheaper fodder is found in the corn crop put

Darryinc, THe Horse, anp Bers 261

into the silo. By planting this crop in rich, warm soil
early in the season, the ears of even some late varieties
will mature and if cut up when the kernels are well
glazed, and put into the silo, a rich food is produced
that is much better than the ordinary green fodder that
is generally put into the silos and requires but little
grain to supplement it. Matured corn may be grown
upon good corn land, at a considerable profit, if the work
is done cheaply with the corn-planter, weeder, and cul-
tivator. At least $10 to $15 per acre net profit may be
realized after paying all cost of labor, fertilizers, seed,
etc., and our Eastern farmers should grow more of the
grain they consume and thus keep their money at home.
“A penny saved in this way is twice earned.”

The Tie-up.

There are many kinds of tie-up for cows and each has
its ardent supporters. The chain tie sliding up and
down upon a stanchion post is perhaps most generally
in use. It is inexpensive and allows much freedom to
the animal, but each dairyman should adopt the one
best suited to his stable.

The Milk Supply.

One of the great problems in producing milk for
large contractors or for the milk-route, is to keep up a
regular supply during the changing seasons of the year.
Thus, for the family supply two cows must be kept, one
to come in in the fall and another to give milk while
this one is dry. Or one must sell when the milk supply
becomes short and buy a fresh one. With large dairies
frequent changes must be made, or surplus cows be
kept, to maintain this supply. There are always good
cows to be found in the market and one who is skilled in
the points of a good cow may keep up the supply by

262 THe Smatt Country PLace

buying and selling, but it will be safer for the amateur
to keep good cows over, having several surplus ones on
hand, and raise the young females of those which have
proved the most valuable.

Keeping Up the Standard.

The modern milk market demands milk of a certain
standard as to quality, solids, and freedom from bac-
teria, unpleasant taste, and odors.

The percentage of solids in milk of different animals
varies much, and it is conceded that this percentage
cannot be materially changed by the food given; there-
fore if one is making milk below the standard he must
add to his herd cows that produce a higher standard of
milk. This necessitates the testing of the milk of all of
the members of a herd in order to know which are giv-
ing poor milk, which is done at little or no expense
by the experiment stations and most “of thes ali
contractors.

Standard of Purity.

The boards of health of States and large cities are
demanding milk for the people free from unhealthful or
undesirable foreign matter—.e., free from foul odors,
and the various bacteria or germs of disease and decay.
To secure this careful inspection is made by the boards of
health and by the contractors, thus necessitating greater
cleanliness and care on the part of the dairyman in the
production and care of his milk.

The greatest profit is made by milk producers who
peddle their milk in villages and small cities, by which
means they get the full retail price. Milk is sold to the
large contractors for from four cents to five cents per
quart, while the retailer gets from his customers six
cents to eight cents per quart, thus realizing from two
cents to tour cents for the labor of delivering. One

Darryinc, THe Horses, anp Bess 263

great advantage of retailing in this way to one also en-
gaged in growing vegetables and fruit, is that these prod-
ucts may also be sold on the same route.

Raising Calves.

For the past quarter of a century raising calves has
been on the decline in many dairying sections, this being
more largely done in districts outside the milk produc-
ing limits and the cows shipped to dairying places.
With the increasing prices of all dairy products there
should be some profit in raising the female calves of our
best cows, even by the milk producer, and at the same
time our herds would be greatly improved thereby.

The labor of rearing calves by hand, as must largely
be done with the present price of whole milk, is consid-
erable, but the cost of feed for the first two years is
comparatively small and a good two- or three-year-old
will often sell for from $30 to $50, according to her
promise. This work should be done for the pleasure of
it, as well as for the profit. The young members of the
family will take great interest in the “Bossies,’’ and
may help in the feeding, and the calves soon become
great pets and playmates when properly handled. By
careful selection of the stock from which “ Bossy’’ comes
' a higher standard will soon be established, and many a
fine herd has been built up from a single high-grade
animal. When one can obtain skim milk, this with the
addition of a little well-cooked “‘fancy middlings,”’ or
linseed meal, will make a good food for several months.
If skim milk is not obtainable, a porridge made of the
above meals or some of the calf foods will keep the
calves in good growing condition.

If reared during the winter they are ready to go to
pasture in the spring, when they will require little or no
care for about six months.

264 THe Smart Country. Pace

During the first winter after coming from pasture
they should be fed fine, tender hay, rowen, or clover
much of the time, with now and then a feed of carrots,
apples, or small potatoes. Well ripened and thoroughly
cured ensilage also makes a good fodder for yearlings as
well as for older animals.

One of the great advantages of the dairy business in
connection with other branches of the home farm, is
that a regluar monthly income is received and one does
not have to wait until the end of the season for money
with which to pay bills as they come along.

Selecting the Family Cow.

‘ ?

The man who knows the “points”’ of a good cow can
go into the market and buy animals that will be what is
desired, but the inexperienced buyer must depend upon
the judgment of others. Some farmer friends or some
reputable dealer or successful dairyman should be con-
sulted. The first and last will advise honestly, and the
second will often for a consideration find for you an
animal that will be what you want.

THE PAMINY: LLORSE:

Motorcycles, automobiles, and trolley cars have be-
come common in almost every village and hamlet, and
one may go to almost any section of the country with
one of these, yet the family horse is not a thing of the
past and prices have been going higher and higher for
these for many years. No inanimate machine, no mat-
ter how perfect its achievements, can take the place of
that family pet that so faithfully and intelligently takes
us about for business or pleasure. <A good, well-trained
horse soon becomes almost a member of the family,
and even women and children may safely feed, groom
and harness it.. (Fig. 809.)

Darryinc, THe Horst, anp Bers 205

The Stable.

The horse should have warm, rather light and well-
ventilated quarters. Where room is abundant a box
stall is much better than the narrow tie-up stall. The
family horse unless regularly fed and worked is liable
to many diseases, caused often by improper food or
ver tecdine. ~The -horse’s stomach is) small ‘and it
should be given small quantities of food at more fre-
quent intervals than the cow, which has a large stomach

Fic. 89—The Family Horse. One That Has Done Service for
Twenty-Six Years, and is Good for Many More.

and can draw up the partially masticated food—her
cud—and chew it over at her leisure. Very bulky food
in large quantities should be avoided, though a feed
now and then of meadow hay or corn stover may be
beneficial.

During the summer an occasional feed of green grass
or a run in the pasture now and then will do the horse
much good, and during the winter a few feeds of clover
hay, or carrots will improve his digestion. For horses
that are working but little, grain will not be needed
except after having been driven, and then a few oats

266 THe Smatt Country Pace

will be the best feed. For working horses two parts of
oats to one of cracked or whole corn make a good grain
ration, giving them from one quart to six or eight quarts,
according to size and the amount of work done.

Timothy hay is generally considered the best “horse
hay,” but a clean bright mixture of several of the so-
called English grasses with a sprinkling of clover in it
may be equally good.

Watering.

Horses should be watered two or three times each day
but never immediately after a feed of grain, as owing to
the small size of the stomach the grain would be washed
out before it was digested.

CARRIAGES AND HARNESSES.

Carriages and harnesses are expensive additions to the
home equipment, but with good care may last a long
time. Varnished carriages should be kept where the
gases from the manure-pit cannot arise and disfigure
them. They should be kept clean by frequent washing
and wiping with chamois leather; frequent examuina-
tions should be made, and any nuts or bolts that mney
have become loose should be tightened.

Harnesses should be kept in a dry place, be cleaned
frequently, and wiped over with harness soap. The
leather should not be saturated with oil, as this causes
decay, but after washing and before fully dry a dress-
ing of oil should be applied. As with our own clothing,
a stitch in time in the harness often saves nine or more
and also a broken harness and perhaps a serious acci-
dent. In a warm stable a thin blanket will be found
economical in keeping the horse clean, and in a cold
stable a thick one is needed for warmth. By the use of
building paper, however, and a few laths any stable

Datryinc, THe Horse, anp Bers 267

may be made warm, and it will be found cheaper to use
the paper than to supply food to keep the animal heat
up to a comfortable point. |

BEEs.

There is no more interesting living thing than the
honeybee. It is possessed of wonderful intelligence and
skill, producing large quantities of honey with little or
no expense to the owner, and at the same time aiding

Fic. 90—A Modern Apiary. Note the Terraces and Open Ditches
to Ensure Perfect Drainage; also the Shelter of Grove in
Background.

in the more perfect fertilization of the flowers of all our
fruit and ornamental trees and plants. As much as
one hundred and sixty pounds of choice honey has been
produced by one colony of bees in a single season.

Bees occupy but a small space and require no expen-
sive house to live in. In most large apiaries the hives
are placed in the open and only a few inches from the
ground (Fig. go). Here the bees that come in laden
with honey or pollen if they fail to alight on the board in
front of the hive can crawl up and reach the hive and
deposit their load. The ground, too, is warmer than the

268 Tue SMALL Country PLace

air, and the hives are not as much exposed to winds as if
on a higher stand. Small apiaries are often placed upon
a stand two or three feet high, with a roof over it and
where shelter and protection may be afforded during
the winter without taking them into the cellar. Suc-
cessful apiaries have been located upon the flat roofs of
city houses, the bees flying several miles in search of

honey. 2
y The Hives.

The old. “box’’ hive is a thing of the past) Hawa
been superseded by those with movable frames to which
the bees attach their combs, and which can be removed
at pleasure for examination or rearrangement.

Upon these frames is often placed ‘foundation ’’—
thin sheets of wax—upon which the bees build their
combs, this serving as a guide to enable them to put
the combs straight and true on each frame.

There are as many patent hives as of churiemaue
washing machines, many of which possess features of
merit, but the more simple the construction the better,
and one skilled in the use of carpenter’s tools can make
for a small cost hives that are practically as good as
many that are sold at high prices.

Surplus Honey.

The modern method of putting up surplus honey for
market is by having small boxes or sections holding
just one pound placed upon the top of the hive in such
a manner that the bees will fill it in regular and even
sheets. When quickly made the comb is very white,
and all sections should be taken off as soon as the cells
are capped over. The best honey is made from apple
blossoms, white clover, basswood, and buckwheat, grad-
ing about in the order given. That from other and mixed
flowers is of poorer quality. The buckwheat is dark and

Dairyinc, THe Horse, anp Beres 269

does not bring as high prices as the light and delicate
honey made from the first three flowers above mentioned.

Swarming.

One of the greatest trials of the beekeeper comes
in May, June and July, when the bees are liable to
“swarm.” If left to themselves along in the early sum-
mer, the number of bees becoming too great for the
hive, a large body of them with the queen will start out
in the middle of some bright day to seek a new home.
Before locating permanently they generally cluster on
some bush or tree nearby while scouts are sent out in
search of a new location. If taken at this time and put
into a new hive they at once go to work, and if early
in the season, before the supply of honey becomes
short, they will make a strong colony. This natural
swarming is a very uncertain operation, and necessi-
tates constant watching, as often swarms will come out
when no one is near to hive them, and they disappear
and are lost. Swarming is delayed and sometimes pre-
vented by putting on extra sections when the bees seem
to be idle, but the most certain method is by artificial
swarming. This consists in first driving nearly all of
the bees into a hive placed upon the one to be divided.
Two or three frames containing young brood are placed
in the centre of the new hive, which is then placed upon
a new stand, two empty frames being put in the old hive.
The new colony will soon fill the empty frames and rear
a queen from the young brood of the two frames given
them and both will become strong colonies.

The details of caring for bees at all seasons can only
be learned by closely watching them and studying
some of the recent and up-to-date books on the subject
bke ACB. €>.of Bee Culture,’’ and by visiting some
good apiary.

CHAPTER XTV

MontTHLy CALENDAR

N this chapter are given suggestions and hints that
may call to the mind of the busy home owner some
of the work that ought to be done and the time for

doing it, the detailed directions for the doing of which
will be found in previous chapters of this book. These
suggestions are given under headings which will enable
the reader to find the desired suggestions without search-
ing over all of each month’s calendar. They are espe-
cially adapted to New England, and to make them
apply to more southern sections select those of two
or three months ahead, while for the more northerly
select those one or two months later.

JANUARY.

The Land.—When the land is covered with snow or
frozen hard, manure may be drawn upon runners or
wheels better than later when the weather may be
more favorable for other work. This manure, how-
ever, should not be spread upon the surface if the land
is very sloping, as much of the liquid would be washed
down hill during heavy rains or thaws. This month is
the time to make plans for the coming year. Jt is the
school time, when we may stop and take a breath and
learn from books, agricultural papers, farmers’ insti-
tutes, etc., what others are doing, the best methods of
growing our crops, desirable varieties, the best markets
and methods of marketing, etc. Seedsmen’s and nur-
serymen’s catalogues should be studied and orders put

270

Montuiy CaLenDaR 27a

in for the seeds, fruit trees, and plants needed for the
farm or garden. A definite plan for the treatment of
each piece of land should be made.

Buildings.—All buildings should be carefully inspected
as to changes or repairs that are needed, as during the
leisure time of this month and next much of this work
may be done, or material be gotten out for future use.
Painting may be done on the mild days in winter. Oil
and paint, being a little thicker at this time, will harden
more on the surface and not penetrate the wood as much

sctaiieaatianenatie|

Fic. 91—After School and Before Chores. January.

as in warm, dry weather, though it will not spread as
easily. Thermometers should be kept in all stables, and
vegetable and fruit cellars, to enable us to know what
the temperature is before injury is done.

Stock.—See that the stable is warm and free from
cold drafts upon the animals, yet well ventilated. Don’t
overfeed the horses that stand in the stalls most of the
time. Regular feed and water is of the utmost impor-
tance. Sheep and Shetland ponies are so thoroughly
protected by their coats of wool and hair that they
thrive best 1f allowed to stay in the open air most of the
time, but must have a dry place to stay in during stormy

272 Tue SmMaAtt Country PLAcE

weather. Give the pigs a dry place and an abundance
of bedding.

Roads and Walks.—Little can be done upon roads
and walks at the North, but repairs and the making of
new ones may be done further south.

The Lawn.—lf uncovered, the lawn should be dressed
with a little fine stable manure, to protect the grass
roots. Coarse, green manure is unsightly and offensive
and has no advantage over that which is fine and par-
tially decomposed.

Trees and Shrubs.—Ornamental trees and shrubs
may be pruned during the winter if one has the leisure,
except sugar maples, butternuts, and birches, which
will flow sap from the wounds as the weather of spring
comes on. These should not be pruned until the buds
are well swollen in the spring. Order for any ornamen-
tals that are to be planted in the spring should be sent
in now, that a good selection may be obtained. The
first orders in are often filled with the best specimens.

The Flower Garden.—The making of plans and send-
ing in orders for seeds and plants is about all that can
be done at this time of the year. Materials for stakes,
labels, etc., may be made ready for spring use.

Greenhouses and Sash.—If{ one has a _ greenhouse
now is the time when it should have the most careful
attention. Be sure that all parts of the furnace are in
good order, as a break or leak at this time may mean
the loss of all in the house. Replace broken or cracked
glass at once. Hot-bed sash should be looked over and
all broken glass replaced and the sash bars be drawn
with rather thick paint. This is often as effective in
keeping out the water and holding the glass in place as
using putty on the outside.

The Orchard.—lf pruning of fruit trees is started
this month and continued on warm days it may all

MontTHiy CALENDAR 272

be completed before the rush of work in the spring.
Pruning, especially on large trees, is slow work, and
should be begun as early as possible. Prune from the

Fic. 92—Pruning from the Top Down. The work may be done
at any time after the leaves fall up to the opening of the
flower buds.

top down, as in Fig. 92, and not from the trunk up as
a, Wag oe Chap.) VII. |

The Vineyard.—Grapevines should be pruned dur-
ing the winter but not while frozen.

Small Fruits—Little work can be done with small

fruit plantations. Currant bushes may be pruned on
18

274 Tue Smartt Country Prace

warm days and should the covering be blown from the
strawberry bed it may be replaced. If this is done just
before a snow or rain storm it will lie in place better
than if put on in fair weather.

Tools.—Every tool large and small on the place
should be looked over and repaired and put into order
for work. To prevent the iron and steel parts from
rusting, wipe over with kerosene and linseed oil and
paint the woodwork with linseed-oil paint. If a special
color is selected, one’s tools may be readily recognized
when borrowed by neighbors who fail to return them.
By this care tools may be made to last a lifetime

Fertilizers —Study the bulletins of the fertilizer in-
spectors of the experiment stations, to decide what are
the best, and order such as are needed that they may be
ready on the ground when spring work begins.

Seeds—Nurserymen’s and seedsmen’s catalogues
should be coming along about this time and should be
looked over to see what new things are offered. Novel-
ties should be tested only in a small way, as nine-tenths
of these have not proved more valuable than the old
standard sorts.

Poultry.—Keep the poultry warm but give plenty of
air. Dryness, an abundance and variety of feed—not
too much—with exercise, is the secret of the production
of eggs in winter.

Bees—Look at the bees occasionally to see that the
opening into the hives is not stopped up by ice and
snow. Bees are often smothered after an ice or sleet
storm. A packing of building paper around three sides
of the hive or a box set over it will help keep tiem
warm and save their supply of honey for use later in
the winter, when it may be more needed. Hives and
material for sections, etc., should be looked over and
put in order for next summer.

MontHiy CaLenpaR 276

FEBRUARY.

Land.—Continue the work suggested for last month.
Winter should be the school time for those who live in
the country and work on the land, and every spare
moment should be utilized in learning what others are
doing in our line of work, by reading the papers and
bulletins of experiment stations and the Department of
Agriculture, all of which may be had for the asking.
When possible, one should visit neighboring farmers
who are successful in the same line of work, attend
farmers’ meetings, and exchange ideas as to the best
methods, best varieties, markets, etc.

Every piece of land we own should be studied care-
fully and full plans made of what we will do with it
the coming year. In no other way can we expect to
reach the best success in our business.

Buildings —Work of repairs or improvements on
buildings should be pushed so that we may have our
time free for the active business on the land when
spring opens. Watch the cellars, that frost does not
get into them. A lantern or small stove will often keep
out ihe frost, orcextra banking of hay outside may be
put on.

Stock.—Keep the cows and horses in good condition
by an occasional change of feed, giving them a little
exercise in the yard or fields when the weather will per-
mit. Unless working, horses should be fed lightly.

Roads and Walks.—Gravel may still be put on the
roads and walks, if the ground is uncovered. If heavy
snows come upon the roadways, see that the shrubs
and small trees are not broken down when it is shoveled
out. See that evergreens are not broken down by the
weight of snow.

The Lawn.—Unless conditions nae decidedly from

276 . Tre Smartt Country Pace

last month, little or nothing can be done on the lawn.
At the South, work of making new ones, reseeding old
ones, etc., may go on as it would further north in
March and April.

Trees and Shrubs.—Few of us do all the pruning that
our ornamental trees on the lawn or by the roadside
need, and we therefore should keep the saws sharp and
on mild days do what we can to improve them. Every

eee
fee

Fie. 983—Making Quick Work at the Wood-Pile. February.

large cut made should be covered with thick linseed-oil
paint to protect it from decay.

The Wood-Pile.—Most people in the enn depend
upon wood with which to keep warm, and getting up
the wood-pile is a very important part of the winter’s
work. In cutting wood the improvement of the wood
lot should be kept in mind. By skill and good judgment
one may cut out the trees that are worthless for lumber,
thin out where they are too thick, obtaining all the wood

MontHiy CALENDAR : 277

needed, and that which remains will grow all the better.
Old apple trees that have badly decayed trunks or are
of the cider-apple variety make the best of fire-wood
and should be cut down. They are only breeders of
insects, and the other varieties would be much improved
by destroying them. The greatest fuel value is obtained
from wood that is cut and split while green, allowed to
dry a little while, and then put into a dry, open shed to
season. Hickory, oak, maple, chestnut, and pine are
valuable in the order given. A gasoline engine or even
horse power will help make quick work of the wood-
juleh (hig? 93.)

Lumber.—lIf there are large trees in the wood lot and
a saw-mill in the vicinity, it will be economy at the
present high price of lumber to have some of them cut
for lumber for repairs or new buildings. A few boards
and some dimension stuff for sills, studs, etc., will always
find a use about the country home.

The Flower Garden.—Little can be done here this
month. Study the catalogues, make plans, and order
what seeds and plants are desired.

Greenhouses and Sash.—The work of raising plants for
outside growth is going on in the Middle States and will
begin in earnest at the North the last of the month.
Many flower seeds like verbenas, pansies, Drummond
phloxes, etc., may be sown under glass for early out-door
blooming.

Orchard.—As with the ornamentals, pruning in the
orchards should be pushed. The old worthless apple
trees in the pastures and by the roadsides should be cut
down and put into the wood-pile. Keep in mind that
pruning from the top forces growth near the ground
where the fruit can be easily gathered and where spray-
ing can be cheaply done, while pruning from the trunk
up forces growth to the tops of the trees where fruit can-

278 Tue SmALL Country PLace

not be easily reached nor the necessary spraying done,
and tends to an early decay of the trunks and lower
ipranches. “(see Hic 51, page a4c-)

If new trees are to be planted, orders should be sent
in early and all plans as to distance and arrangement be
completed.

Vineyard.—The pruning of vines in the vineyard and
on buildings and garden trellises should not be delayed
or the flowing of sap when the buds begin to swell will
injure them. See method of training in Chapter IX.

Small Fruits —Pruning of the raspberry and black-
berry canes may be done now, though some growers
delay this work until the buds begin to start that only
dead wood may be cut out. The old and very small
canes should be first cut out and then the new uninjured
canes headed back about one-fourth of their length.

Vegetable Garden.—Little outside work can be done
at the North during this month, except ¢getime sour
manure, securing supphes of fertilizers, seeds, etc., but
at the South out-door work is going on rapidly. Every-
thing that will relieve the rush when the weather will
permit of out-door work should be done. At the South
early crops of peas, lettuce, beets, radishes, rhubarb,
asparagus, etc., are now being harvested, while these
crops are in stages of development less advanced as we
go north until we find everything except such as are
under glass still in the icy bonds of frost and snow.

Tools.—Keep at work upon the tools, and have every
one put in the best possible condition. No one can do
good work with poor tools, and it will often pay to buy
new and improved ones, especially labor-saving imple-
ments like manure spreaders, weeders, wheel-hoes, seed
and fertilizer drills, etc.

Fertilizers —Clean up the poultry houses, pig pens,
box stalls, manure sheds, etc., and take account of the

MontTHiy CALENDAR 279

stock of manure and decide what will be needed for
the crops to be grown. Don’t spread over too large
an area. We may often grow as much on an acre by
intensive cultivation as is averaged on three or four
acres, and the cost of cultivating the smaller area is
very much reduced. Too many of us are “land poor.’’

Seeds.—Look over the stock of seeds on hand and if
any appear to be poor test them in a plate of moist
sand between two sheets of cheesecloth or blotting
paper. If the percentage of germination is 50 or below,
and that not strong, throw the seed away, as the plants
coming from it will probably be weak. Don’t be too
late in ordering seeds for farm or garden; or exchang-
ing with neighbors, if they have good strains, is good
practice.

Poultry.—The hens should be laying heavily at this
time and we should be planning for the best possible
supply for setting next month. The hens should have a
great variety of feed and be given a run in the open air
during the middle of the day when the ground is un-
covered. Every hen that wants to set should be removed
to a room away from the other fowls and eggs be put
under her. If a number can be set at once, at the proper
time the eggs may be tested, the unfertile be thrown
out and the fertile ones put together thirteen or fourteen
to each hen, and those thus left without eggs be given a
new lot. This also should be done with eggs in the incu-
bator, and it is advisable to have two or three incuba-
tors filled at once, that none of them be run with a small
number of eggs.

Brooders should be put in repair or new ones built
so as to have them ready when the chickens are taken
from the hens or incubators.

Bees.—On warm days bees will be flying more or less,
cleaning out their hives, and should be watched to see

280 Tue Smart Country Pace

that no robbing is done. If there is any indication of
robbing the opening in front of weak hives should be
reduced so that but one bee can pass in or out at a time.
This will enable weak swarms to protect themselves.
If there is any question as to the supply of honey in the
hives of any colonies, the hives should be examined,
and if the supply is short the bees may be fed sugar and

water.
MARCH.

The Land.—As we go north from Florida we shall
find the land in various stages of cultivation. At the
North only winter’s work can be done, except in un-
usual seasons, when plowing may sometimes be done and
seeds like onions, peas, etc., planted. The work sug-
gested for the two previous months should be completed
as soon as possible, that undivided attention may be
given to planting when warm or suitable weather
comes on.

Buildings —As with all other winter work, all jobs
upon or about the buildings should be rushed to the
finish, and every moment be given to it ati Sipe
completed.

The days are growing longer and warmer and more
and more outside work can be done, but unless we have
planned wisely we often find that we have “bitten off
more than we can chew” and will have to leave some
jobs unfinished or get behind with some of our other
work. At the North foundations of out-buildings are
likely to settle as the frost is working out, and there is
no better time to repair this and put the foundation
deeper while the ground is soft and before the building
is injured. In the care of old buildings—and new as
well—we should go on the theory that “‘a stitch in time
saves nine.”’

Roads and Walks.—The best time to repair roads or

MontTHiy CALENDAR 281

walks is when the frost is just working out of the ground.
At this time the gravel will settle into the low wet
places, and it soon becomes well compacted. Where
there is a good road-bed only a narrow bed of gravel. or
broken stone should be put in the middle—not more
than one-half of the width of the road-bed, as it will work
out toward the edges from the travel over it.

Look out for the gutters and bars, as the soft soil or

Fic. 94—Sugar Orchard Scene in Vermont: Gathering the Sap. March.

road material is more easily washed at this time than at
any other season of the year.

The Lawn.—Early in the spring is the best time to
sow seed on the old lawn or make a new one. If manure
was put on last.fall, all of the coarse material should be
raked off and some good lawn-grass seed be sown, raked
in, and rolled. If there are many perennial weeds like
dandelion, chickweed, speedwell, etc., in the lawn, they
should be dug out before the raking and seeding. If
there was a long growth on the lawn last fall it would

282 Tue Smatt Country PLace

be best to rake off as much of it as possible on a very
dry day, or when there can be no danger to buildings it
may be burned off without injury. This old material,
too, may be cut off with a very sharp lawn-mower and
used as a mulch about the trees or put in the compost
pile:

Trees and Shrubs.—After the ground will work up fine
and mellow, the earlier trees and shrubs are planted,
the better. If any pruning remains unfinished it should
be attended to at once. Roses and other tender shrubs
should be uncovered and the former be severely pruned.
The best roses are produced upon strong new shoots
that come from near the ground, and the flowers when
gathered should be cut with long stems that strong
buds may start out below the cut and produce a con-
tinued bloom. The covering about rhododendrons or
other evergreen shrubs should not be removed too
early, but may be thinned out and finally removed a
week or two later. Shrubs that bloom early in the sum-
mer, like golden bell, spirzeas, and Japanese quinces,
should not be pruned until after flowering. The manure
placed in piles about the trunks of trees and shrubs
should be spread about under the branches and if on
the lawn raked off later. When fertilizer is depended
upon for the growth of trees or shrubs on the lawn,
now is the time to put it on.

Spraying for the San José scale should be done before
growth begins. The lime-and-sulphur scalicide and
the scale destroyer have proved effectual in keeping this
pest in check if not wholly destroying it, the former
proving a good fungicide as well as insecticide.

The Flower Garden.—Transplanting of hardy herba-
ceous plants like peonies, iris, astilbe, phloxes, pinks,
etc., may be done at this time of the year. If the
plants are large they may be divided as shown in

MontTHiy CALENDAR 283

Fig. 34, Chap. V, a single clump of peonies or iris
making sometimes a dozen to twenty plants.

Seeds of hardy flowering plants, like alyssum, candy-
tuft, hollyhocks, etc., may be sown as soon as the soil
becomes fine and mellow. It is often the hot sun and
drying surface of the soil that destroys germinating
seeds, and they should be sown while the sun is low.

Greenhouses and Sash.—This is a critical time for
plants in the greenhouse and under frames. During
bright sunny days unless one watches the ventilators large
quantities of plants may be destroyed in an hour or two.
Summer conditions are produced at this time by fur-
naces and the increasing heat of the sun, and good
judgment is required to keep up a healthful growth.
Too much or too little water will cause serious injury
as will too high or too low temperature, and insects
increase at a wonderful rate. Plants should be run out
into the frames as soon as possible, so that they may
grow stocky and be well hardened off before planting
permanently in the open ground. As the sun runs
higher the glass should be shaded, first lightly with a
very thin mixture of white lead and turpentine, which
will give it a ground-glass appearance. Then later a
more permanent shading may be made by adding a little
more white lead and a little linseed oil.

The Orchard.—Transplanting is now in order as soon
as the ground will work up fine and mellow, but trees
should not be planted when the soil is sticky like
mortar. See that the tops and roots are cut back as
shown in Fig. 42.

The Vineyard.—All grapevines should have been
pruned before this time and tied to their support on
buildings, garden trellis, or vineyard wires. It is better,
however, to prune now than to let it go undone. All
trimmings should be cleared up and burned to destroy

284 Tue Smartt Country PLace

any spores of disease there may be upon them. Spray-
ing with a thick Bordeaux mixture or the lime-sulphur
mixture will help the vines resist mildews, anthracnose,
black-rot, and other diseases.

Small Fruits.—Raspberry canes may now be uncov-
ered, straightened up from the ground, and pruned.
Spraying as advised for the grapevine will be a decided
benefit.

Tools.—See that every tool is cleaned and wiped dry
after using. They should be hung up in a dry place.
Keep the edges of hoes, spades, etc., sharp with the file
or on the grindstone. A pound of effort in this way
will save untold pounds of labor when we are using
them among weeds and in digging where there are roots
of trees and grass.

Fertilizers —Quickly soluble fertilizers like nitrate of
soda or sulphate of ammonia, should not be sown until
about the time the plants begin to grow. Much better
results will be obtained from all fertilizers if sown in
close’ contact; with the roots. ‘For seeds it-shouldgjiae
drilled in or finely mixed with the soil used in covering.
For fruit trees, small fruits, etc., it ‘should be spread
close about them as far as the branches or leaves ex-
tend, and be cultivated or hoed in.

Seed Testing —No risk should be run in planting
untested seed. If the dealer will not guarantee the
vitality of the seeds, a home-made tester may be made of
two soup-plates, a little sand, and two sheets of blotting
paper or cheesecloth large enough to cover the plates.
The sand is put into the plate level full and made per-
fectly level by drawing a straight edge over it. It is
then wet almost to saturation and one sheet of the
blotting paper or cheesecloth spread over it. Then to,
25, or 100 seeds are placed on the cloth or paper, the
second cover is put on, and a little sand sprinkled over

MontHiy CALENDAR 285

it, and the second plate put on over all. This tester is
then placed where the temperature is even, for cab-
babes, onions, Deets, radishes, peas,etc:, at about so°
to 60° during the day and 40° to 50° at night, and for
cor, beams, cucumbers, melons, peppers, etc., 76° to
80° during the day and 60° to 70° at night. All seeds
will germinate more certainly if the night temperature
is about 10° to 15° lower than that of the day.

Poultry.—Early hatched chickens either from the hen
or incubator will generally do better in brooders if they
are properly made and the heat well regulated. Many
kinds of brooders that work satisfactorily are on the
market, or very serviceable ones may be made by any
one skilled in the use of carpenter’s tools. For heat a
lamp must be used with a burner the blaze of which
will not grow larger as the lamp and surrounding space
become warmed, as many ordinary lamp-burners do.

Bees.—Continue to watch for robbing and see that
each colony has honey enough, for as warm weather
comes on and they are breeding rapidly they will con-
sume a large amount and will be unable to collect much
until next month at least. Let everything be cleaned
up around the hives and stands, so that the bee moth
may not find ready hiding-places.

APRIL.

The Land.—The work of this month at the North and
February at the South are somewhat alike, except that
at the South there has not been the frost and snow but
continued spring for several months. At the South
summer crops are being harvested, while at the North
only spring planting is just begun. Seeds of radishes,
onions, turnips, cabbages, celery, parsnips, beets, etc.,
may be sown out of doors on land that will work up fine
and mellow. Mowings and meadows should be dressed

286 Tue Smatt Country PLace

with fine stable manure or fertilizer before much growth
begins, though nitrate of soda will give better results if
sown a month later.

Greenhouses and Frames.—These are being crowded
with plants from seeds and cuttings, which are moving
in rapid succession from the greenhouse to the frames.
All plants like cabbage, cauliflower, celery, geranium,
verbena and other bedding plants do better if hardened
off in the frames.

Roads and Walks.—These should be fixed up as soon
as the ground has settled. The farm road need not be
of gravel, but when ruts are made if a little loam or turf
is put into the ruts, some grass seed sown and then
rolled with a heavy roller or dragged, it will soon become
solid enough for all ordinary farm teaming, and be much
neater and more easily kept in repair. Grass walks
slightly crowning in the middle, the grass being kept
cut close with a lawn-mower, make beautiful walks and
are passable even in light shoes at all times except
during storms and after heavy dews in the morning.

The Lawn.—When the grass has reached three or four
inches in height the lawn-mower should be run over it,
but it is best to let it get strong before clipping closely.
Quickly soluble fertilizers or fine stable manure should
be put on, with a liberal seeding of lawn grasses, all
well raked in and rolled. If this is done just before a
rain, the seed will be nicely covered and start at once
into a vigorous growth.

Trees and Shrubs.—Transplanting may still be done,
but the more advanced the season the more severely the
tops must be cut back.. It the soil be very dry water
may be poured into the holes before the trees are set,
or, after the roots are partially covered it may be put
in to settle the soil about them. A small quantity of
water used in this way will do more good than many

MontHiy CALENDAR 287

times the amount put on the surface after the hole is
filled up. After planting in a dry time the surface soil
should be kept light and mellow or mulch of hay or
straw be used to keep in the moisture.

The Flower Garden.—Here, as in every other line of
work in the farm and garden, every moment must be
made the most of. The earlier transplanting of hardy
plants is done, the better. The fight against weeds like
witch grass, sorrel, etc., must be made early, and the
weeds pulled out root and branch and taken to the com-
post pile. Annual weeds are best destroyed with a rake
or light hoe as the seedlings are breaking through the
ground. An hour’s time at this stage of growth will
accomplish more than a day when the weeds are large.

The Vegetable Garden.—All crops that grow at a low
temperature should be planted outside this month or
early the next. The asparagus bed should be cleaned
up, the tops burned, and manure or fertilizer worked
in. Rhubarb beds should be treated in the same way.
If they were covered last fall with a heavy coating of
manure the coarsest part should be removed and the
finer spaded in. If the soil is heavy cover seeds lightly.
A good rule for covering seeds is, under the average good
condition of soil, to cover two or three times their thick-
ness when the soil is well pressed upon them.

The Orchard.—lf possible spray all fruit trees before
the blossoms open. Use Paris green or arsenate of lead
for all leaf-eating insects. Remove the webs of all tent
caterpillars from fruit trees and the wild cherry while
they are small.

If young trees are kept dormant they may be planted
until the middle of May, but their chances for growing
are much less than if planted earlier. Consult experi-
ment station bulletins as to latest and best methods of
combating insect and fungous pests.

288 Tue Smatt Country PLace

Small Fruits —New plantations of all small fruits, if
not made last fall, should be done as early as possible,
cutting the tops of raspberry and blackberry canes
back to only a few inches above the surface of the
ground after planting. Apply an abundance of manure
or fertilizer about each plant before growth begins.
Spray these and currant bushes with the Bordeaux mix-
ture before the leaves unfold. The earlier strawberry
plants are set in the spring, the better. Use only plants
with white roots. Those with black roots are old plants.

Poultry.—Chickens should have constant attention.
Regular feed in considerable variety will be needed for
the best growth. If given the run of a pasture, a brush
lot, asparagus field, or raspberry or blackberry planta-
tion, they will develop rapidly. If they are kept in small
pens or coops these should be moved frequently to keep
up the supply of green food. If hens are kept in close
pens, they should be let out a short time each day just
before going to roost. All fowls more than one year old
should be dressed for home use or market as they cease
laying.

Bees.—This is a busy time with the bees. As warmer
weather comes on they can gather pollen and a little
honey, and if they still have some stores on hand they
should be breeding rapidly. See that they are well
supplied with honey for their increasing family.

May.

The Land.—Fit the land thoroughly for all kinds of
crops. Harrowing, rolling or dragging an acre one or
two times extra when one is at the job will add but
little to the cost, while it may save much after labor
and give a much larger crop. Stirring the soil, espe-
cially on bright, sunny days, helps to warm it up
wonderfully.

MontTHLy CALENDAR 289

Buildings.—See that the water from the eaves is car-
ried away from the building quickly, for if sills are con-
stantly saturated with moisture during warm weather
they decay rapidly. Gutters should be arranged and the
soil so graded that water will not run back upon the
cellar walls if a dry and healthful cellar is desired.

Stock.—As soon as feed has become abundant, the
cows and heifers should be turned out to pasture. This
time ranges from the 1st to the zoth of the month,
according to latitude. As warm weather comes on a feed
now and then of carrots, small potatoes, or green grass,
will do the horses good. Young calves that have been
fed from the pail all winter should be tied out a short
time each day before putting out to pasture.

Roads and Walks ——Weeds will soon start to grow in
any material on roads and walks except coarse gravel
or broken stone, and the surface of the old walks, if to
be kept clean, should be hoed and raked over and a thin
dressing of screened gravel or broken stone be put on.
If grass roads and walks are to be kept up, levelling off
here and there where ruts have been made, adding some
new soil and lots of grass seed, will ensure a good growth
of grass.

The Lawn.—The routine work of clipping is the
principal need upon the lawn this month. The edges
of walks, beds, and borders, must be frequently cut,
as the grass spreads rapidly at this time of the year.

Trees and Shrubs.—Much may be done to improve the
form of trees and shrubs by pinching or cutting off the
ends of shoots that tend to grow beyond the outline
desired. All sprouts from near the ground or along the
trunks should be rubbed off as soon as discovered. No
large branches should be cut at this time except from
maples, butternuts, and birches, which were not trimmed
in winter on account of bleeding. For cutting large

19

290 Tue Smatt Country PLace

branches the saw only should be used, and never the axe.

The Flower Garden.—Here as everywhere else weeds
will need attention and should be treated as recom-
mended for those in the vegetable garden. As the
flowering plants, like lilies, hollyhocks, etc., grow tall,
they should be tied to neat stakes. If grass-walks have
been made between the beds the lawn-mower should be
run frequently and the edges cut often. The more closely

Fic. 95—The Beginning of the Strawberry Crop. May.

the flowers like pansies, sweet peas, etc., are picked the
longer they will continue to bloom.

The Vegetable Garden.—The close of this month will
see the seeds of all kinds of vegetables sown—cucumbers,
melons, and squashes, not until the last, while corn,
beans, tomatoes, etc., are planted or set out earlier.
Small lots of peas, sweet corn, radishes, lettuce, etc.,
should be planted at intervals of two weeks in succes-
sion for the summer home supply. This month we

MontTHiy CALENDAR 291

should have an abundance of radishes, lettuce, aspara-
gus, rhubarb, spinach, etc., from our own garden.

The Orchard.—Follow the suggestions for last month.
After the petals have fallen, spray for the codling moth,
canker worm, plum curculio, etc., using the Bordeaux
mixture and Paris green or arsenate of lead.

Small Fruits —One spraying with Bordeaux mixture
and an arsenate is all that will be needed on the small
fruits before the blossoms open. The currant and goose-
berry bushes should have especial care just as the leaves
unfold, to destroy the currant worm, that appears at
this time. Frequent cultivation with the horse or hand
wheel-cultivator is necessary for a rapid growth.

Poultry.—Close watch must be kept that chickens are
not taken by crows, hawks, owls, skunks, etc. Keep
their quarters clean and dry. As they increase in size
they will require more room and should be put into the
colony houses as soon as the weather permits. They
will grow in proportion to the feed and care given.

Bees.—This month should be the best harvest time
for the bees. The blossoms of apple and other flowering
trees and shrubs are abundant during the early part of
the month, and white clover comes on soon after. The
best honey is made from apple blossoms and white
clover. Keep all the bees at work in strong colonies by
having plenty of sections on the top. This may prevent
swarming. Artificial swarming may be done on warm
days, taking frames of brood from strong hives and
putting them into new hives with most of the old bees.
It this Oivision 1s carmed on too far, it may be at the
expense of a large surplus the first season, but we have
two or more strong colonies in place of one, and perhaps
would have lost one or more swarms, had they swarmed
naturally.

292 Tue SmatLt Country PLacr

JUNE.

The Land.—As in May the principal work upon the
land is cultivating frequently to kill weeds, produce or
. develop plant food in the soil, and prevent the escape of
moisture: By the last of the month:the early croperver
peas, lettuce, beets, etc., may be off the land, sowuaas
it may be plowed or spaded and manured for a second
crop: ~Where' there is a rye, clover or other oreen cre
upon the land, it may be turned under and the tame
fitted for a crop of cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, late
beets, turnips, etc. If a large dressing of stable manure
was applied in the spring, commercial fertilizers may be
used with profit for the second crop, especially those
quickly soluble like nitrate of soda, acid phosphate,
potash salts, etc. Bone, fish, and other organic manures
are so slow in dissolving that they cannot be profitably
used for these late crops.

Buildings.—Rain storms and gales are more frequent
during the summer, and every precaution should be
taken that doors and windows be so fastened as not to
be blown down, and any damage caused in this way
should be repaired at once. After continued dry weather
leaks on the roofs, especially about chimneys, may be
discovered with the first rain thereafter.

Roads and Walks.—Continue to follow suggestions for
the previous months. Keep gutters and bars cleared so
that in heavy showers the water will pass quickly from
the surface and not cause bad washouts.

The Lawn.—The grasses grow rapidly this month if
there is an abundance of rain, and the lawn-mower
should be run frequently. It is better to cut frequently
and let the clippings lie upon the ground than to cut less
frequently, and have to rake the clippings and cart them
away. If water is applied to the lawn, enough should

MonrTHty CALENDAR 293

be used to wet down to the lower roots. A little water
upon the surface does more harm than good, as it causes
the roots to grow near the surface, and with continual
drouth the plants are more injured than if none were
used. A little nitrate of soda or quickly soluble lawn
dressing will help to keep the lawn green. These should
be sown just before a shower if possible.

Trees and Shrubs.—The elm beetle will appear in
many localities, and spraying with arsenate of lead or
Paris green is the surest remedy. If the Bordeaux mix-
ture is used it will prevent injury of the leaves by the
elm blight.

Newly planted trees must be watched. In times of
drouth if they are found wilting a space should be dug
nearly down to the roots, a few pailfuls of water put in,
and the soil replaced. After this a mulch of hay or straw
should be applied. If one has running water, enough
should be applied to the surface to wet down to the roots.
As upon the lawn, a little water will do more harm than
good in a dry time.

A power spraying outfit and at least two good climbers
besides the driver are needed to spray tall trees most
economically. Spraying while the larva of the gypsy-
moth, the brown-tail, is small is a more effectual rem-
edy than any traps or parasites. ;

The Flower Garden.—As fast as the flowers fade the
stalks should be removed unless it is desired to save the
seeds, in which case they should be allowed to fully
mature. Gather the seed stalks and pods that are ripe
and keep them in sheets or in large paper bags after
they have been dried. Be sure to label distinctly with
name and date of gathering. Keep in a cool, dry place.

The Vegetable Garden.—Garden crops that require
high temperature like beans, corn, cucumbers, squashes,
and tomato and pepper plants, may still be planted and

294 Tue Smartt Country Ptace

the second crop of peas, beets, cabbages and cauli-
flowers, etc. The fight with weeds must still be kept up
and the ground stirred to keep in the moisture.

The Orchard.—Continue to watch closely for insect
pests. The San José scale will begin hatching young
this month, which is easily killed by most of the well-
known remedies before the hard scale is formed upon
its body. Scalicide, scale destroyer, etc., must berices
in a dilute form during the summer or it will injure the
foliage.

Small Fruits.—The first fruit of the season, the straw-
berry, is gathered this month at the North. “(Figeiv6)
For home use picking once in two days except in very
hot, moist weather is all that is needed. The value of
the crop depends much upon how it is picked and
marketed. The fruit should be cooled off as soon as
possible after picking, but not put upon ice unless it is
to be shipped in refrigerator cars. Keep the ereumd
moving among all of the bush fruits and the young
strawberry plants.

Grapevines must have attention, tying up all canes
that are to be grown for next year’s fruiting, and pinch-
ing the ends of all the fruiting laterals at the last cluster
of blossom buds. After this the ends of all new shoots
must be pinched except the two or three new canes on
the lower vines that are to be fruiting canes next year.
Vines on buildings and garden trellises must be treated
the same way, except that as many canes must be
allowed to grow to their full length as are needed to
cover the required space.

Poultry.—As the chickens grow older more space and
care and feed will be required to keep them in a health-
ful condition. Give them an abundance of range for
fresh green food and insects, either by moving the col-
ony houses frequently or by changing their ranges.

MonTHLy CALENDAR 295

The fowls that are now ceasing to lay had better be put
upon the market, and the cockerels separated from the
flock and fattened as fast as possible. At this time they
should be bringing high prices and if well dressed will
bring an income that will pay the large and increasing
grain bills.

Bees.—Keep a sharp outlook of the bees and if they
swarm put the swarm into a new hive and place it on a
new stand at night. Keep all idle bees at work by add-
ing sections to the hive for them to fill. Any section of
honey well capped should be removed at once and new
sections added, as the longer it remains on the hive the
darker the comb becomes. The middle of the day is the
best time to work among the bees, as all are busy gath-
ering honey and do not have time to look after other

people’s affairs. mee

The Land.—This is a good time after the hay is cut to
turn over exhausted mowing land and reseed. The
earlier this is done the better, but the seed had not best
be put in until the land has been thoroughly aerated by
frequent harrowing. August is nature’s seeding time,
and seed sown on land made thoroughly fine and mellow
with the harrow, with 500 to 800 pounds of good grass
fertilizer per acre, will pay a large profit upon the
investment.

Roads and Walks.—A heavy dressing of salt or an
application of some “‘herbicide”’ will kill weeds in the
walks and roads. This is easier than hoeing them up,
but more expensive, perhaps.

The Lawn.—The same care is needed on the lawn as
last month. Annual weeds, finger grass, etc., will begin
to grow in the bare spaces among the grass roots, and
the best way to get rid of them is to cut the grass close.
Sow more grass seed and apply fertilizer just before a

296 Tue Smart Country Prace

rain. A thin dressing of very fine rich manure after the
seed is sown is better than lawn fertilizer.

Trees and Shrubs.—These will require little or no
special care during this month, except to direct their
growth as suggested in previous months. We should
not allow any growth to continue that we must remove
next winter or spring if we can avoid it. Removing the
seed pods of lilacs, spireas, etc., will cause them to
grow more vigorously and mature larger and more abun-
dant flower buds the next season.

The Flower Garden.—This month we should be en-
joying the products of our labors in an abundance of
flowers, but care should not be relaxed or we may be
swamped with weeds, which grow almost in a day at this
time of the year. Large plants like dahlias, cosmos,
hollyhocks, gladiolus, etc., should be tied to neat stakes
to prevent their being broken in heavy rain storms.
Early maturing seeds should be gathered and put in
paper bags or large envelopes.

The Vegetable Garden.—The planting of seeds for the
season will end with this month. Seeds of late beets,
lettuce, radishes, and turnips may still be sown, and
. cabbage, cauliflower, and celery plants may be set out
in rich soil. Frequent stirring of the soil should be
kept up. Seed stock of all kinds of vegetables should be
selected before any of the crop has been harvested. By
selecting seed from the earliest and best stalks of sweet
corn, the best shaped summer squash, the smoothest,
best shaped and most vigorous tomato plants, etc., our
strain of these vegetables will be much improved. If
several varieties of the above are planted in the same
garden they will so mix as generally to be of little value.
Sometimes, however, these crosses may be valuable;
thus, if a yellow sweet corn like the Golden Bantam is
crossed with a yellow of larger size, and the best of the

MontTHity CALENDAR 297

stalks and ears of this be saved for several years until
its characteristics are well fixed, it may be of more
value than either of the original varieties. New varie-
ties, however, require several years of planting by

Fic. 96—Currants and Gooseberries Ripen in July.

themselves before their real value can be determined.
The Orchard.—In July we begin to gather some of the
tree fruits. Cherries ripen from the middle of June to
August, and must be picked as soon as ripe or they will
decay. Birds are the greatest obstacle to cherry grow-
ing in the Eastern United States, and where one has but

298 THe Smatt Country PLace

a few trees they get them all. By covering with old fish
nets or (if the trees are small) mosquito netting, some of
them may be saved. In large orchards, the amount
taken may not be missed and perhaps is no more than
pays for the bugs and worms the birds destroy in other
seasons of the year. Some of the very early apples will
begin to ripen the last of the month, and all of the first
droppings should be fed to the cows, horses, pigs, or
poultry, to destroy the insects they contain. Pigs and
poultry may be turned in among the trees, but cows
and horses will badly injure trees with low heads. All
trees heavily loaded with fruit as to endanger breaking
down should be thinned out or propped up. It is often
the case that if dhalf-of the truit is removed? ironmerme
plum, pear, peach, and even the apple tree, that which
remains will be much larger and finer, will measure as
much and bring higher prices than all would if un-
thinned: -In this work of thinning all defective or
wormy fruit should be picked off and destroyed, as it is
worthless, only continues to breed insects, and takes the
strength of the trees. With plums and peaches no two
specimens of fruit should touch, and each fruit should
have from three to six inches of space upon the branches.

Small Frutts—Strawberries are through with fruit-
ing along the Middle States and will last but a week or
two in New England, but will be found more or less in
our markets for a month, being brought from the North
and East. As soon as the crop is off, unless the bed is to
be carried along another year, which is not the best
practice, the land with all the plants, mulch, and weeds
should be turned under and fitted for a crop of cab-
bages, beets, celery, or turnips. To plow this well under
without clogging at short intervals, a sharp wheel-
coulter, which will cut through all this organic matter,
should be used. If the land is free from weed seeds, it

MontTHiy CaLenDar 299

can be very easily put into condition for seeding early
in August and next season will yield a large crop of hay.

The new bed or field must be watched and weeds be
kept out. If not growing satisfactorily scatter a little
fertilizer along the rows and rake or cultivate it in.
Runners should be placed where wanted or cut off if the
plants are to be kept in hills. Raspberries and black-
berries are fruiting and the soil should be stirred fre-
quently among the rows to keep in the moisture, with-
out which the berries will be small and few. All canes
coming up between the hills or in the rows should be
treated as weeds and be cut off or pulled up. If canes
are falling on the ground with the weight of fruit or
foliage, loosen the wires, place them over in the middle
of the rows and then draw taut again, which will bring
the canes up straight and close together. (Fig. 72.)
The fruiting canes of grapevines should be girdled
about July ist to hasten ripening at the North; at
the South this is not needed. For shipping grapes this
is not desirable, as the skin is more tender and the
berries more easily crushed.

Pouliry.—At this time of the year poultry can be
given a liberal supply of green food from the garden,
or may obtain a large amount of this food from the pas-
tures and fields, in the ranges among blackberry and
raspberry bushes, or in the asparagus field. All cock-
erels except those to be saved for breeding should be
marketed as soon as they are in good condition, and to
this end should be separated from the pullets and fed
fattening foods. There is much danger of neglecting the
houses, roosts, and nests at this season of the year, yet
even more care need be given, for during hot weather
vermin grow more rapidly than during the winter.
Whitewash the walls and roosts with lime and kerosene
at least every month.

200 Tue Smatt Country Pace

Bees.—This month little time need be given to the
bees, except to see that all sections filled and capped be
taken off as soon as filled and new ones put in their
places.

AUGUST.

The Land.—Most of the land is now covered with farm
or garden crops. If the grass land is dressed with fine
stable manure after the hay has been cut, the mulch
and plant food thus given will cause a rapid growth of
new roots and shoots, and the crop for next year be
greatly improved.

Weeds of all kinds, and especially hot-weather weeds
like pusley, pigweed, etc., are growing rapidly and the
only way to keep them subdued cheaply is by stirring
the soil frequently. When they are small, light hoeing,
raking, or using the fine-tooth cultivator, will destroy
them, but when they become larger, the wing-toothed
cultivator or small plow must be used to cover them up
or they must be carried off the field.

This is the best month for seeding grass, but a fine
and deep seed-bed and a rich surface soil are necessary
for a strong growth of the grass seedlings.

Roads and Walks.—Little work need be done on roads
and walks this month, other than was suggested for pre-
vious months. Keep the gutters clear so that there
shall be no washing during hard showers. Tar-concrete
gutters, walks, and crossings are best made during hot
weather.

Trees and Shrubs.—These are about in midseason’s
- growth, and many are maturing the terminal buds, so
that no pruning is needed. Hedges which are pruned
to keep them in a close, low form may now be pruned
for the last time. The seeds of all kinds should be gath-
ered when those first ripened are beginning to fall.

MontTHiy CALENDAR 201

Those maturing early in the season like elm, red maple,
etc., should have been sown at once and at the end of
the season we will have seedlings several inches in height.
Pine cones should be gathered at this time, put in bur-
lap bags, and hung in a dry, airy place. They are the
most quickly gathered by climbing into the trees and
using long pruning hooks to cut them off. The seeds
will fall out of the cones in the bags when dry. This
seed is worth several dollars per pound. This is the
best time in which to transplant evergreens unless it
should be a very dry season. A moist day should be
selected if possible. Seethat the soil is tramped about the
roots very firmly. If very dry pour water into the holes.

The Flower Garden.—Bulbs that were not dug up in
the spring and dried may be transplanted now, in the
same ground or elsewhere. Make the soil rich and
mellow. Gather all seeds as they mature and put in
paper bags or envelopes distinctly labeled.

The Vegetable Garden.—The supply of fresh vegetables
should be abundant at this time. All root vegetables
become fibrous and woody, if allowed to stand long after
maturing. Cabbages crack open; cauliflowers branch
out; tomatoes decay, and should therefore be gathered
and stored or sold. Cabbages and cauliflowers are espe-
cially forced into maturity by frequent stirring of the
soil with the rake, hoe or cultivator, and may be re-
tarded by loosening the roots a little. Sweet corn, and
field corn for grain or fodder, should be cut up and
stacked as soon as the kernels are glazed and before
frost, if possible. Squashes must be gathered before
frost and stored in a warm, airy place to cure, but the
longer they remain on the vines the harder the shell,
the drier the flesh, and the longer they will keep. Seeds
of the common field turnips, and spinach, may still be
planted at the North, for the winter’s supply.

202 Tue Smart Country Pace

The Orchard.—Early varieties of apples and pears
must now be harvested and sold at once, as they keep
but a short time. Where the trees are low such varie-
ties as Astrachan, Williams, Early Strawberry, Graven-
stein, etc., are most satisfactory if allowed to drop on a
mulch of hay, as they are not colored if picked before
they are almost mellow. Pears should be picked as soon
as fully grown and ripened in the box or barrel when
shipped to market. The color is better if ripened ina
close, warm place. Peaches and plums for local markets
should ripen on the tree and not be picked until the
green color of unripe fruit has changed to a yellow and
the fruit is almost mellow. If any trees show signs of
weakness with leaves yellow and small, look for San José
scale, and spray as previously directed. Look also for
borers and dig them out, or for the woolly aphis and spray
as for the San José scale. Black knots on the plum
trees should be cut off or painted with linseed-oil paint
with a little kerosene in it. Cover crops of peaseanag
barley will be beneficial if sown the first of the month
and allowed to lie on the ground until next spring before
turning under.

Small Fruits —The principal work for this month is
keeping down weeds among the raspberry and black-
berry plants and currant bushes. Grapes are ripening
the first of the month at the South and the last of this
month and early September at the North. (Fig. 97.)
This fruit must be ripened on the vines, and the longer
it can hang the better the quality. It requires but a
light frost to destroy the leaves, and if the frosts come
before the fruit is ripened it can only be used for
cooking. Vines in the garden or on buildings may be
protected by covering, but no method of protection has
been devised that is successful and profitable in vine-
yards,

MonTHLy CALENDAR 203

Poultry.—Keep up the fattening and marketing of the
chickens. They will soon “eat their heads off’ if not
kept growing and sold as soon as they are mature enough.
Pullets and fowls should have all the run possible and be
fed a variety of food, to cause early moulting, that they
may begin laying before the holidays. Don’t let the
hens and pullets out of the houses until the air is warmed
up in the morning when there is frost.

Bees.—Watch the hives for moths, and robbing of the
weak swarms, as the supply of honey decreases. Bees
are like children, and even older persons; when idle they
easily get into mischief.

SEPTEMBER.

The Land.—The last of August and the first of this
month is nature’s seeding time. The seeds of grasses
ripen the last of July and early in August and fall on the
ground, and the rains cause them to germinate and get so
deeply rooted as not to be thrown out by the freezing
and thawing of the fall and spring. Weeds and brush
should be cut along the walls and fences, and carried
away, and not allowed to lie on the ground to smother
out the grasses. If trimming is done along the roadside,
the beautiful species of trees, shrubs and vines should be
allowed to remain and only the weedy and undesirable
be cut. When the surface of the roadside is rough and
stony, shrubs and vines make a more beautiful covering
than grass and weeds.

Buildings.—Plans should be made for repairs and im-
provements to buildings to put them into the best pos-
sible condition for winter. If they are leaky, look for
loose shingles, cracks between shingles, etc., which show
better in dry weather than after a rain. A slender spike
on the end of a pole will enable one below to locate
small holes so that one on the roof can see where new

304 Tue Smatt Country PLace

shingles are needed. Any boards that have warped out
of shape during the dry weather should be nailed in
place before they come off and are broken.
Stock.—Plans should also be made as to where the
stock will best be win-
tered..: Box stallsfor
the young stock and
possibly for the horses
may be more desirable
than tie-up staliey
Make doors and win-
dows tight but so as
to be easily opened and
shut for ventilation.
Roads and Walks.—
Road material put on
this month will be well
trodden before winter
sets 1n.* Om mies
kept lawns, flat or level
road - beds. on a level
with or a trifle above
the turl aré betvem
than if crowned, but
where the material is
poor crowning from six
inches to a foot on a
width of ten to twelve
feet of road -bed will

Fig. 97—Harvesting the Grape Crop. :
September. give’ the “best results,

In repairing put the new material in the middle of
the road-bed, over four to six feet of road-bed six inches
deep in the center and running down to nothing on the
edges.

The Lawn.—Keep the lawn closely clipped to prevent

MontTHLy CALENDAR 205

annual weeds from producing seed. If not already done,
get some fine manure or lawn dressing and grass seed
on the surface as soon as possible. Cut and pull out all
grass roots running into the flower beds. If new lawn
is to be made use turf for the edges of walks, borders of
beds, etc. This will enable us to work in the walks or
beds when necessary without injuring the very young
grass seedlings.

Trees and Shrubs.—Evergreens may still be trans-
planted with success if the weather is moist and the
ground not dry. Greenhouses that have been resting
and drying out should be started, watered, new soil and
lots of manure put into the beds. Keep the houses open
as long in the fall as possible to keep the plants healthy
and stocky. Sow seeds of lettuce in beds outside.

The Flower Garden.—Planting of bulbs 1s now in order
if they can be obtained. Many of the importations of
Dutch bulbs come later than this month, but those
taken from the beds last spring after blooming may be
put in at any time. The richer the bed is made and the
finer the soil the better will be the bloom next spring.
Hardy herbaceous plants like peonies, iris, etc., may be
transplanted as well as all kinds of bulbs. Make the
beds very rich. Upon the lawn very pretty results are
obtained by planting crocus bulbs in the grass. A hole
an inch or two in diameter and four inches deep is made,
the bulb is placed at the bottom and the hole filled
with fine rich soil. These will bloom one or two years
and then must be renewed.

The Vegetable Garden.—The tender vegetables must be
harvested at the North before heavy frosts appear. The
leaf stalks of celery plants must be drawn together and
the soil packed about them to make them grow close
and straight. Potatoes are generally better out of the
ground after this month if one has a cool place in which

~20

206 Tue SmALL Country Pace

to store them; otherwise they will be better in the
ground until cool weather comes on. If the pea and
bean pods were not picked clean they may be pulled
when ripe, dried, and later threshed out for winter use.
These are just as nutritious for winter use as the small
white beans and peas, though they may not look as
well. Cultivation of the soil, while not as much needed
as during July and August, must be kept up to kill the

Fic. 98—Sorting and Packing Apples. October. This work may be
done as picked from the tree, or in the more leisure time later.

weeds and help the growth of late growing crops like
cabbages, cauliflowers, etc. ;

The Orchard.—On orchards in cultivation this should
cease unless the trees are weak. When in turf more
mulch of old hay, straw, or weeds may be put on at any
time if needed, but must not be close to the trunks as it
will shelter mice.

Nearly all fall varieties of apples and pears are now
ripening and must be marketed before they become

MonTHiLy CALENDAR 207

mellow. Keep the dropped fruit cleaned up and fed to
the stock or chickens. Pick the pears when the wormy
specimens are beginning to mellow but don’t pick until
fully grown. The largest may be picked first, when the
small ones will grow faster and may be picked later. To
ripen quickly after picking keep them in the dark at 60°
to 70.° The lower the temperature the longer they will
keep. The last of this month and early October is the
best time for picking winter fruit; if fully grown and
well colored, at the earlier date, or if not well colored,
from the first to the middle of October.

If help is abundant and the weather good apples and
pears should be picked and packed in the orchard, but
with large crops this is not always possible and a part
of the crop should be put into some cool, dry place
like a north shed or barn floor (Fig. 98), where they
may be packed in stormy weather. The sooner apples
are sorted and packed and put into a cool place with
even temperature, the better.

Small Fruis.—Little time need be spent in the care
of small fruits this month unless one has leisure. The
old canes may be cut out from the raspberry and black-
berry plantations, grapevines may be pruned as soon as
the leaves fall, trellises repaired, etc., but this work can
as well be delayed until there is more leisure.

Poultry.—As cold weather comes on more care is
needed with the pullets and laying hens. Keep them
clean, warm and dry, give a variety of food and fresh
water, and allow them to run on dry pleasant days as
much as possible. Give them plenty of roost room.
One cockerel should be allowed for each twelve to
fifteen pullets.

Bees.—Few flowers will be in bloom this month and
the bees must depend upon their stores for food. It is
best to remove all surplus honey in supers, and if the

208 Tye Smartt Country Pace

supply is short in the frames below let them fill them up
from partially filled sections, or supers. Watch for rob-
bers and protect weak swarms by closing the mouth of

the hives.
OCTOBER.

The Land.—This month is a good time to top dress
grass land, especially on hilly lots where the manure
will have time to wash in before winter sets in and the
fine particles to settle into spaces about the grass roots.
The soil, too, is warm, which tends to a growth of the
grass roots while the tops are kept dormant by the
frosty air.

Late fall plowing on steep slopes is not advisable but
upon level land will improve the texture of the soil and
make it work up fine and mellow early in the spring.
If a cover crop of peas and barley, oats, Japanese millet,
etc., is upon the land it is best not to plow it under until
spring as this cover prevents washing of the soil and
keeps it light during the winter.

Buildings —The cold frosty nights remind us that we
must get ready for winter, and the stables, outbuildings,
and poultry houses must be put into order before the
severe cold weather.

The more permanent these improvements are made
the better, yet all of these buildings can be made tidy
and warm by a combination of building paper and
laths or battens. Roofing materials may be put upon
the outside and painted the color of the main buildings,
and will present a very neat appearance. The green-
houses should be looked over and all loose glass fastened
in place. It pays to draw the sash bars on the outside
with white lead and oil-paint every year.

Roads and Walks.—Suggestions made for last month
apply equally well for this. New roads and walks and
repairs on old ones can be made at any time.

MontTHiLy CALENDAR 309

Trees and Shrubs.—Many trees and shrubs can be
more successfully transplanted this month than later
this fall or next spring. At any time after the leaves

begin to turn they may be transplanted.
| Root formation is more rapid at this time, while the
soil is warm, and the atmosphere cold. In exposed
places delicate trees and shrubs like magnolias, tulip
_ trees, Japanese maples, etc., should be protected after
planting by setting up pine boughs on the north and
west sides and somewhat in among the branches.

The Lawn.—tThe final mowing of the lawn may be
made the last of the month, as it is not best to have a
too heavy covering of old grass on the land over winter.
After cutting, a light dressing of fine manure and grass
seed will be all that is needed this fall.

The Flower Garden.—Beds from which annuals and
other plants have been removed should have a good
coating of manure spaded in, and the borders neatly
cut, and will be in fine condition for next spring plant-
ing. Bulbs of hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, snowdrops,
and even lilies may be planted, and irises, peonies, golden
glow, poppies, etc., if these have not already been
planted.

The Vegetable Garden.—Manure spaded or plowed
under at this time will put the land in fine condition

for early spring planting. Beets and carrots should be
_ dug and put into the cellar before severe freezing weather.
To keep root vegetables from wilting in a dry cellar
pack in slightly moistened soil or sand or in moist
leaves, which keeps them better and is cleaner and more
easily handled. The greenhouses should be in full run-
ning order with carnations, violets, etc., and lettuce will
be ready to transplant from the frames.

The Orchard.—All winter apples should be picked
as soon as fully grown and well colored. This time

210 Tue SMALL Country PLAce

varies in different seasons with Baldwins, etc., from
the toth to 20th of October in Eastern United States.
The longer they can be left on the trees without waste
by dropping or injury by frost, the larger and better
colored they will be. Late picking lessens the labor of
picking and sorting, as most of the wormy fruit has
fallen. Late varieties of pears like Anjou, Winter Nelis,
Hovey, etc., should also be left on the trees as long as
possible, but severe freezing will injure them. If there
is a mulch of hay or straw about the trunks of young
trees, see that it is drawn away, and fresh soil or coal
ashes packed about them. Where there are a large
number of trees painting with fresh limewash, and Paris
green, will be the cheapest and best protection from
mice and rabbits. Apple, pear and plum trees are bet-
ter planted in the fall, if it can be done this month and
the soil is not too wet and soggy.

Small Fruits—Any weeds starting among the straw-
berry plants should be hoed or pulled and carried off
the land, as at this time they grow almost as readily on
top as in the soil. This applies especially to chickweed,
witch grass, etc.

Raspberry, blackberry, and currant bushes can be
more successfully planted in the fall than in the spring.
By cutting the cane of the former down to about six
inches, and placing a large forkful of manure over it,
they will be protected and start very vigorously next
spring. Cuttings of currants and grapevines will root
more certainly if made early than later. Root cuttings.
of raspberries and blackberries should also be made this
month and next.

Poultry.—Fowls should have completed moulting by
this time and be ready for laying. An abundance and
variety of feed is necessary for the best results, but
fattening food should be avoided.

MontTHLy CALENDAR ot

The “dry mash”’ system of feeding is very attractive,
and should be given a trial. If successful it reduces the
labor to the minimum. The best mixture perhaps has
not been determined by practice for ordinary condi-
tions, but probably equal quantities of shorts, gluten,
linseed, ground oats, and corn meal and scraps always
before the fowls should be given a trial, with whole corn,
barley and buckwheat, to be scattered in the litter.
Oyster shells, grit and green feed should also be before
the fowls all the time.

Bees.—We must look after the supply of honey in
the hives for winter’s use, as little or no more will be
gathered this fall. It is generally thought that there
should be five or six frames well covered with bees and
at least thirty pounds of honey at this time to enable
a colony to go through the winter safely. The honey
should be in such a position in the hive as to allow the
bees to get at it in the coldest weather.

NOVEMBER.

The Land.—Work may be continued on the land as
suggested for last month. Clearing up of all waste
materials, burning the coarsest and composting the
finer parts is always in order. Compost may be carted
out and spread on level land, but on hilly land is best
put in piles until spring.

Buildings.—Repairs of the quarters for the stock
should be completed before extreme cold weather
comes on.

Stock.—Young stock should be taken in from pasture
from the first to the middle of the month. If the pas-
ture is near by, they may be let out a short time in the
middle of each day with advantage.

Trees and Shrubs.—Planting may continue during the
early part of the month if the soil will work up fine and

oa? Tue Smatt Country PLace

mellow. Newly transplanted trees of large size should
have supports of stakes or wire guys to keep the wind
from swaying them back and forth and thus letting air
down to the roots. Mounds of soil will help to support
smaller trees. A mound of rich manure should be put
about all ornamental trees and shrubs before the ground
freezes.

Pine boughs should be set up about the rhododendrons
and other broad-leaved evergreens or any other tender

Fic. 99—Raising Turkeys Almost a Lost Art. November.

trees and plants. Hemlock and spruce branches will not
do for this, as the leaves soon drop off, but all species of
pines, arbor-vitz, and junipers hold their leaves. Oak
branches that retain their leaves all winter may be used
in the same manner.

The Lawn.—Keep the leaves raked from the lawn.
If piled up in thick masses the grass roots under them
are injured. They are worth much more than the cost
of raking up for bedding, for litter, for poultry, and for

MontTHLy CALENDAR 513

compost. They are very easily gathered by spreading
out a large canvas or street horse blanket and raking
them upon it. Then, taking hold of the four corners, a
large quantity can be swung upon the shoulder and
carried to the shed or stable. °

Buildings.—Continue suggestion given last month
until all buildings are snug and ready for winter. Look
to the eave-troughs and gutters and keep them clear so
that roof water may be carried quickly away. In using
paper inside the poultry house cover the spaces between
the rafters as well as the sides, and see that the ground
for two or three feet away from the foundations is
covered with hay or straw so that the frost cannot work
through it under the floor.

The Flower Garden.—There are always a few last
things to be done in the garden if the weather permits.
Roses should be banked up with soil or manure and the
tops tied up in loose straw. All rubbish should be gath-
ered up and put into the compost heap or brush pile.
Most of the tops, leaves, etc., that come from this clean-
ing up will in a year or so make good compost and it is a
waste to burn it, when we would have only a few ashes
of little value left.

The Vegetable Garden.—Everything in the vegetable
line should be under cover by the middle of this month.
Cabbages, kale, sprouts, and turnips will often stand
longer without injury but it is unsafe to leave them
much later than this. Celery, if left out longer than the
tst, should be banked to the top, covering nearly or
quite all of the leaves after the middle of the month,
but should be put into the pit or cellar on a cold, dry
day. This crop in the home garden is often kept in the
ground where grown until used. When the top of the
ground has frozen an inch or so deep a light covering of
hay is put over the whole bank, and when colder weather

214 Tue Smart Country Pace

comes on a little more is added, and so on until enough
is on to prevent further freezing of the soil about the
plants, when a few boards are put on to shed rain.
When wanted, open one end of the row, take out what
is needed for a week or so, and cover again. When skil-
fully done this method is very satisfactory, is easier
than digging and storing in cellar or pit, and the celery
is rather more crisp. Parsnips and salsify are improved
by freezing, the starch in these roots being changed
into sugar by the action of frost, and are often left out
all winter. Such as are wanted for winter’s use must be
dug before the ground freezes, and to prevent wilting,
which injuries them very much, they should be packed
in sand or slightly moistened leaves.

The Orchard.—Little work will need be done in the
orchard this month, though the planting of young trees
may still be done during the early part of it. Pruning,
too, may be done if one has the leisure, but all cuts made
now must be more thoroughly covered with paint than
if done the latter part of winter. Young trees not pro-
tected from mice should be painted with fresh limewash >
and Paris green. Don’t use wash that has stood more
than a few hours.

Small Fruits —Planting of the bush fruits may still
continue up to the middle of this month. The canes
of tender varieties of raspberries should: be laid down
and the tips covered with enough soil to hold them
close to the ground. Bend toward the south, so that
the sun’s rays will strike the canes at the ends and not
broadside. Tender varieties of grapes like Roger’s
Hybrids, Iona, Niagara, Salem, Brighton, etc., will be
benefited by laying on the ground and covering with a
little soil. Cuttings may still be made and they may be
planted or put into moist soil in a cold cellar until
spring. The strawberry bed must be covered before

MontTHiLy CALENDAR 215

severe freezing. Pine needles, coarse strawy manure,
hay, straw, corn stalks, etc., may be used. Forest
leaves often compact so as to cause injury.

Pouliry.—lf egg producing is to be made profitable
the fowls must be laying freely now while prices are at
their highest. Keep stopping up the places where cold
can get in but have as full ventilation as possible, with-
out drafts. Have a store of green food, gravel and litter
for use. Cabbages for the fowls may be stored on the
north side of the houses and when freezing weather
comes on leaves and straw thrown over them will
enable one to get them out readily. Soft heads of cab-
bage may be bought at from $1 to $3 per load, accord-
ing to size. Paint roosts with limewash and kerosene
for nits, and have plenty of dust for the fowls to wallow
in to keep down lice.

Bees.—Make all colonies snug for the winter. If
there are only enough bees in a colony to cover five
frames crowd those containing the most brood and honey
together and put in a division board. If they have less
than twenty-five pounds of honey, feed them enough
sugar and water in the top of the hive to make up this
amount. At the North the colonies should be kept in a
dry, cool cellar, or have a box cover lined with hay put
over them. Some only put a bag of hay in the super
chamber.

DECEMBER.

The Land.—Work suggested for last month may still
be done if the ground is not frozen. Manure may be
drawn out even if the ground is covered with snow.

Buildings.—Continue to put the buildings in order for
winter. If frost works into any of the cellars bank up
with more hay or straw or use tarred, building, or roof-
ing paper. The latter may be put on neatly against the
underpinning either outside or inside. Have thermom-

316 Tue Smart Country PLaAce

eters in every place where frost would do harm and
watch them closely. A pan of water on the cellar bot-
tom is a good thermometer. This will freeze over when
32° is reached, and much before any vegetable or fruit
crop will be injured.

Roads and Walks. a up the work suggested
for last month1s
about all there is to
be dome: 2 Waimea
snow covers the
ground small stakes
should be set up to
mark the boundary
of roads and walks,
that the borders of
lawns be not cut up
by driving or walk-
ing over them.

Trees and Shrubs.
—These need but
little attention this
month if suggestions
for the previous
months have been
carried out. Orna-

Fic. 100—A Christmas Tree Cut from the Top
of a Norway Spruce to Force Growth Into mental groves and

the Lower Branches. December. wood lots may be

improved by thinning out surplus and poor material
for fire- wood. With even unskilled help very good
work may be done, the owner or some one of experi-
ence marking with blue chalk or crayon what and
where to cut.

The Lawn.—Pick up, clean up all leaves, and put on a
dressing of fine manure,.if this has not already been
done. Coarse green manure is offensive and unsightly

Montury CaenDar OT

and if grass seed is used with the fine compost it will
have a much better effect.

The Flower Garden.—Here, as with other parts of the
home grounds, is a season of rest. Beds of bulbs that
have not been covered, should have five or six inches of
manure spread over the surface.

The Vegetable Garden.—Little can be done in the vege-
table garden, but the stored products should have
attention and if any are decaying or wilting the cause
should be removed. Apples keep best at an even tem-
perature of about 33°; potatoes, 4o°; squashes, 52°. A
lantern or small kerosene stove may be needed in the
storage room in extremely cold weather to keep the
frost out.

Small Fruits —The raspberry plantation should be
looked over, and if any canes have sprung up from the
covering they should be laid down if the ground is not
frozen. Should the covering have blown from the
strawberry bed, put it back and throw a little soil,
poles, or brush upon it to keep it in place.

Poultry.—The great secret of success in producing
eggs in winter is to have a warm house where the fowls
can retire to feed and roost. They must have fresh air
even if it is cold, and must have an abundance and
variety of food. The days are short and the fowls
should be started early in the morning by giving whole
grain in the litter and fresh water. The warm mash
may be given at morning or night, if the dry mash is
not found satisfactory.

Bees.—Little can be done for the bees at this time,
except, if out of doors, to see that the opening in front
of the hive is not closed by ice, and the bees smothered.

INDEX

PAGE
Amamtals sr... + - .s-.+ L£O9—ILO
Apples.. 135; 138, 150-155, 243
harvesting. . Dc) Ga
IKE DING: - hae eee I51—-152
Shippine.......- 152-153
WATTEtIES SIs .tckiys See see 150
DESUS Ee ieicas: scarce mee 2 153-154
Npplestrees, CoStuOl---ccrsre.- «; 2, LAE
TAG TUChe osyeicre oe Cree © aoe a IAI
APTICOUS..<<.4 --< + <=> 5 ee > 179-180
April, routine work for Pe... 285-288
INT OOESS A Be ates <<) eS see 95
Asparagus.. . ae 220-222
INSECTS c5 5 vies: 3 = -s

August, routine work for

—_ 106
UBi¥o0-303

DAT a arene sot os Onkyaihe hee 44
IBC ATISU Mae rs ras seeeeAce ee 222-223
Bees 267-269
BESTS ea teats «, Pinks Sie Gage ete 223
Bieniiial seeraaers Wee ce eet nee

Blackberries. -.s- -6-- 4. = 19S—202

IBtiCkenOusese os. een oe a ety OL
Brood ere. «ee his oth os tee 249
Building Associations. . : 52
Buildings, of a country home. . 22-23
made tight and warm....... 45
Salo Seen tn... sc yecoene soit Tees, ari ols
Bush fruits... 198-215
Cabbages.. 223-225
Calendar of ‘routine work. ..2 70-317
Wallies ere parngsdh os phe toc eote ar 263-265
Capital required for a country
Besiie mera che stevaas See hee 29
GArriape -HOUSEs se Sees oe eer ee 44
CagniaPes nee eaet Ses se oR rn 266
CALTOUS Ee ee ere Side kee eate 227
(AMI OWEES HEE cid er ace 225-226
BEVETV ere cae gs es 227-230
sit Pao eae chee Eo aa 65, 68
mixing. 83
Cement concrete ‘houses....... 61-67
(herriesann. osanete ee 137, 180-181
Manketings...+..-. +: LOE
ATH UICC ree kwon Siac sane Res 181
[OfeS) Pecan. Cot ee eee oe ee 181
MMACES. So 52, As. oo 9st Wes 96
@oldbisames. ..256.<5.000-:- 126-128
Colony-house for poultry. . 242
Concrete walks and drives. . Pa: 82
Corn, sweet.. SS Ach cn ke eS OS ZO
Cows Ah = ee ee ene 257, 264
breeds of.... ... 259-260
ACTA AUG OTSs ah ee eon comes atone ac 131
(SGrrantis sscn ee a ewcke rete: 202
VALIEGIES (Ola terse tie cpa sioeee aie 204
DESES a icitere ore aa 204-205

PAGE
MID EWG aint rian amiocin.c.o Aa 257—26¢
Deciduous trees. TST OT

December, routine work for. . 315-317

Decorating home grounds....... 78
IDtainage a yoko seen: oie 18-19
TIVES ee ee etal anaes 80-82
Dwar apple-trees........ 22. 154-155
ID SiSio She eae ng a oe ee 241, 252, 254
Equipment for fruit-growing 131-134
ISVELERCENSA sae nee 26.2 75-76, 86, 89
February, routine work for. .275—280
IBECGOTaCOW Sen siimcss = seit cee 258
IETIC ESE tera poise: trates = 6 55/21 < schon 97
HRN SA eee Ieee ioe eee nee 106
Rertilizingss-. 44. 125-126, 191, 239
PAITES WOO: apm eels ners ania | eet 69
Blower garcdenwwie. =>. s.4 sees IIo
Flowers upon the lawn... 102
Fodder.... Ree eed pe oa 257
Erith orOwile.. 222s. 2] -LGO—nS5
PBN SEES oie arsiala e-em
Hoon teen eel oles Beets ee ats 123-124
] bla akeKerse) overs A eeyta ees BNA NS 70
Garden sinew sire. 5.) see II7—129
Plans fODs ssc 2 6 3a Ei heir
Gardening as a business......... 15
Glass structures. 217-218
Gooseberries. . 205-200
Grading 70
Grainger: os the oo ee ae 144-147
Grapes A ae Se IO Ey
GUbLINE SE ae tao ee ee ELS
PITA Soe nas ok eee 193

PRUNING 4s ose se 3. 5 Oy TOO

MAFKEtING: —.6 vciah =e) LOZ—LOS
VATEUES Vic otanic 6 Seem 192
JO ESS oy Sactdyal eels muele 3 eats 194-197
(Grasses: 5 1)) | bit eee ee i epee 99
Greenhouses ira 2 se tec ee 218
GiGeES. ssc tee ee te er ore aS

Hardy herbaceous perennials 113-115

Elarnesses 5 ot. 56055 Ae hee rae 266
FRATTOWS 2 Asse. 0 iso coaeete) oe ceeds arenes 131
Heating. . eee ered nee OD ye
Hedgest <.2- tects mr eee 93
Herbaceous plants......:....... IIo
aves Sole ee rea . 268
HOGS Soe oe ee 125, 132
Home-seeking.. sa2e2 50m 16-30
HIGNeY.Ac eet eine eee 268
Horse power.. St eae Seta 134
Horse, the family. Eee y pe ks 264-266
Fit pedonus, Sra s: 126-128, 218
Houses oftwood,.25— 4s see 55-57
of stone, brick, or cement... 58
PolabidoresSi sa onc cgb asa ac tere 180

a9

November, routine w vork for. 311-315

October, routine work for.. “328-3 1
Old trees, how Space Tes
Onions.. SABA 232-233
Orchard, ‘cost of.. Stef. sodgSO=rAT
Outbuildings. . Beanie oaks a0
Packenerteite tiie 8. oo once: 134
Paint brushes 51
Paice si OSES arr Fe 47-49
Pattee ya ere eos) Lace, So, 49-50
Peaches: 224 52% = 137, LOL, TOs. 243
MamveShine spent sao whee: 165
Mankehineer=seree oH ate wee 166
WATICTICS Ve akxe ee ere he 166
MESES ats, lottte fone Pie ee 167-168
Pearst< steqoies sh 0 137, 156-161, 243
harvesting ae 158
ripening 158
ShiiopinGyee es ek ee 158
Varieties. aa) Is ate 158
DESESE ey coe sate Kt a ee Se 159
Peas. . Rey wtavee ahaha Aen aos, eS amen
Perennials. eee 8 "106-109, II3-114
ela depts Wiehe ee
Rigeonsiestc eo. ts eee ae , 255-256
Pikos for earden. 2... oak I1Q—121
ee REGS A ve lcs caked RATE 84-87
UMS a oiciegs tC ok. Ach coite ed ee 131
Plums.. atin: 137s E7228, Bas
marketing. too SaaS oe esc n ee 176
MeL L IES ts te eign setae: 176-178
RESUS dae <2 etches Saree ee 174-176
P@RERESt osteo cs oa iv alse Geren 3
Potatoes.. She Nenana 234-236
URLS CUE RR Re iinet 128-129
Poultry-houses...... 43-44, 242-247
KEEPIN. © che ace ees 247-256
Pre na bc, caine ee & 74, 94, 96

S705 142-150,
181, 187-190, 199-200, 203

ik ff)

: — ;
320 INDEX
: PAGE PAGE
leICHDALOTS. wanes aces 244, 248 Quinces. . Art 6 ney 172, 243
q marketing........... a hee Sa
January, routine work for... . 270-274 Varnetiesit). <<. on yoo 171
July, routine work for....... . 295-300 DESES. “00 G2 sna ee eee 172
June, routine work for...... . 292-295
& : PReires .be haere cet One 33; 13
Keeping apples. ais) ecco eo toe 15G"}oNaspberries ., .: iste. te 198-202
Labor, contract vs. day......... 53 oe ada tag Uae hea ee aa sé ige eee
Ladder. AOC ENED 3): ye ean a eee
Land, suitable ior ‘Brow ing. . 20-22 haa oe 35
Lawn- -mowers. Te pes ot Jaa i © er 253
Lb 2 Va Re ha oe a te ec Oa mULO Mee iii: | oo Rae Tecra ar
UAH REL Cee le ee eR ily Dee Th ocbel ela cS csv aah oo; Se Meme 65, 67, 68
Eacation of houses.- .. a0 oo. 53 SanicagiOn Geen. Tee See 37
LITA T er Par nie os teee ae nee SOL WIS: ets sar Ge, SR 33
Scratehine-cheds. .. eee oe 43-44
Megane. 2 ee odes etc 44,126 | September, routine work for. . 303-308
March, routine work for... .. 280-285 mHeATS) PRUNE. hc...) ae ee 133
Market gardening........... BLO 240th (Shingles... au. tcl ae 36, 47
Markets. . -++++-- 23°25 | Shingling walls of old buildings... | 46
May, routine work for... .__ 288~2091 Pte. Ol eR 84, 89-90, 94-95
Renee hes epee et (SP -BS 2" Chie See oa 32-35
mM ey | oc Ga BG Ora Saeko. 0 as ate 118, 130, 131, 130
Milk sepply. 2. 2.4 nae ck»: 201-262 162, 170, 173, 205, 206, 217
Mixed plantings... basset REOrE22 | Shades ee. os. ha gk ls T3i2
= Squashes udtais ules Glee a eee
eta en My S Avg 2 ee ayer, Siabless-cucne ween. tuk 257- ane 205
2537754 | Stone houses. . 61

Storing fruit and ve egetables. . <eLegal

Sion 'OOtS..$s) cs. Coe eee 38
Strawberries........3...... 200-205

Planting a5. eee eae 207-208

hanvesting.......... 22) 2ho=eme

VARICTICS) Ay Wire eee 213-214

DESUS a ak ec ee Shoe A—ons
Summer HOUSES. « ieee oe eee 95
Swarming Of bees... 0... .. «eee 269
FRETRACES aoe mwa aed eee ee 99
ile. 5 ay eed pate eee 81
Tool-house, tool-room......... 39-42
Roolss hake re ere 8 40-42, 124, 144
Jtraiming threes’). oe Seetas cee 170
MREGS 7.0 oe Sass re 73, 76, 77;.78, 84

88, 123, 137, 141-143, 162, 165
EUEMIDS Gk 0 kee Ler ee 240
Wnderdraminese.. a. eee 80
Vegetable garden. . : rear 10)
Vegetables, testing 1 new varieties. 122
Ventilating stables, etc.......... 45
Verandas.. saese oeneke ae aste)
Vines, climbing. . Bi. oe iG Ace 95
Vineyards Re ne As 183
AYA) Dc Perae nee erie te ee ea toe os 2 79-81

CONCTEtERA NO. Ue ee 82, I10
Wialll seco. apes tc) oad os ee 97
Water Supply... ..2 oe 36-38, 55
Weeder. Ser iis tc peer eee TNE
Wieedskillers se. 2 clou 2! cee 124
WieEd Sin. ieare. sued G ee ree 82

Wildflowers: +..3..4 5 7. ee ees
Wandow=bOxXeS: ¢ a. oc) ie ee
WindOwSucte. wooaee. Soe ee is

Viera 38
dormer joa ee ee eee 38
Wooden housesee. a. ann ates 55-57
Woodland 022 -c-cccte tee eons 26

2°.

=
mt a
Py) aoe Gre

*
~~ =
“A pi
=

=
77
we

a +.
at
.
2
o rmx
er = ix.
a ‘= : =
ee ~o eo
a - ae TN tig

'

1%
a —
et
C.

_ To 5 .

“
phan taal
.
~ .
2
Lay
+
“
<T P
ays,
Wr Tuk tal
e
. :
‘
aS
yi
5)
‘7
"
vs
‘
"
‘
Z
F
My 5

EAN 20pm
FES, SONS

Sheet th ay

ale

é
Bh
, ‘
+
f ro
My
t oe
‘
o

Wes!

“I

ain

ee iii