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A

SPORTING TOUR

THROUGH

VARIOUS PARTS OF FRANCE,

IN

THE YEAR \S02:

INCLUDING A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE

SPORTING ESTABLISHMENTS, MODE OF HUNTING,

AKD OTHER FIELD-AMUSEMENTS, AS PRACTISED IN THAT COUNTRY ■

WITH GENERAL OBSERVATIONS OM THE

Arts, Sciences, Agriculture, Hushundri/, and Commerce:

STRICTURES ON THE CU5T0MS AND MANNERS OF THE
WITH A VIEW OF THE COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGES O?

SPORTING IN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.

IN A SERIES OF LETTERS

TO THE

RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF DARLINGTON.

TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, AN ACCOUNT OF FRENCH WOLF-HUNTING.

COLONEL THORNTON,

OF THORNFILLE - ROYAL, YORKSHIRE.

ILLUSTRATED WITH UPWARDS OF EIGHTY CORRECT AND PICFUKEsaUE DELINEATIONS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS FROM
NATURE, BY MR. BRYANT, AND OTHER EMINENT ARllSTS.

IN TIVO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

ALBION -PRESS PRINTED:
BY JAMES CUNDEE, IVY-LANE;

FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES AND ORME, PATERNOSTER-ROW,

AND C. CHAPPLE, PALL-MALL.

1806.

\

r-

TO THE
EIGHT HONOURABLE

THE E^MJL OF JD^RJLlJfGTOJf^
SfC. 4-c. 4-0.

MY LORD,

THE similarity of our pursuits Jirst induced me

to communicate, by letter, such ohservations as particularly occupied

^ my mind during the progress I made through a portion of France :

\ hut, in the course of my correspondence, I tzas not vain enough to

^ imagine, that the crude and hasty inforination contained in my letters

* would ever be of sufficient consequence to interest any individual beyond

4 the pale of my private connections. An opportunity, however, having

offered of rendering my Tour, in soyne measure, conducive to the interests

of an old friend, I have consented to its publication; and sincerely hope

^ that, as a sportsman, your lordship may be prompted to honour it with a

K second perusal, in a state, I trust, more correct than xvhen you received

ci my hurried dispatches from the Continent.

Should I find my wishes gratified in this instance, I need only add,

that your lordship will augment the catalogue of those mental pleasures so

•^ frequently derived from your valuable society and correspondence.

A

\j I have the honour to remain.

S

MY LORD,

With every sentiment of esteem.

Your Lordship's most obedient,
I

m Humble Servant,

THOMAS THORNTON,

TlIORNVILLE ROTAL,

March 3\, ISOb".

EDITOR'S PREFACE.

1 HE various Tours performed on the Continent during
the short pacific interval that succeeded the late war, have
communicated much useful and interesting intelligence to
the British public. But as no French Tour of a Sporting
nature has yet issued from the press, it is humbly presumed,
that the subsequent letters may claim some degree of at-
tention, both on account of their novelty, and the ac-
knowledged perfection of their author in all the various
sports of the field.

The sporting intelligence contained in this work may
be implicitly relied on, with respect to its truth and accu-
racy ; and the remarks occasionally introduced on the ma-
nagement of dogs, the best mode of trying for game, Sec.
will, probably, afford much gratification to those gentle-
men who follow the chace with a portion of that avidity
for which Colonel Thornton has long rendered himself
eminently conspicuous.

VIU

With respect to agriculture, the Colonel has not under-
taken an elaborate discussion of that point ; but his re-
marks on the soil, cultiv^ation, produce, and general as-
pect of the country through which he travelled, may
suffice to give a correct outline of French husbandry ;
while a tolerable idea of the sylvan and rural scenery, to-
gether with the costume of the people, may be gathered
from the illustrative delineations taken by Mr. Bryant,
and an eminent French artist, M. Lucas, who accom-
panied the Colonel in his various excursions for that ex-
press purpose, and which embellish the subsequent sheets.

As it might, perhaps, appear singular, in the course of
this Tour, that the author should inspect so many estates
then on sale, it may be proper to remark, that Colonel
Thornton fully intending to purchase some sporting do-
mains, was naturally solicitous to seek the most eligible
situation ; the existing law against naturalization, however,
threw an impediment in his way, and the prospect of a
recommencement of hostilities between Great Britain and
France rather damped his ardour in this pursuit, and even
rendered doubtful his purchase of Chanteloupe.

The introduction of the Colonel to the First Consul,
Generals Moreau, Morthier, Macdonald, and many other
distinguished characters ; together with the flattering at-
tentions which he constantly received in the most fashion-

IX

able circles, afforded an opportunity of studying their
character and manners with a degree of facility and ac-
curacy unattainable by any indifferent traveller. On the
other hand, by his frequent excursions from Paris, his
journey into the Touraine, and his investigation of va-
rious farms, chateaus, and sporting estates, particularly that
of Chantilly, having visited this once magnificent esta-
blishment, at a former period, as well as during the pre-
sent Tour, he acquired a thorough knowledge of people
and places which had escaped the attention of preceding
tourists.

It is much to be regretted, that the ravages of war are
carried into those fertile plains where nature and cultiva-
tion formerly united to exhibit the most luxuriant scenery
to the eye of a contemplative traveller, and where the
mind of the antiquary found ample amusement among the
venerable castles that adorned and diversified the interest-
ing landscape; but where those magnificent abodes are
now stripped of their interior decorations, and mournfully
dilapidated; whilst the revolutionary mania has even ex-
tended to the recesses of the ancient forests, levelling the
sturdy oak, and destroying, or chacing away, the feathered
tenants of those umbrageous abodes.

VOL. I. b

It only remains to observe, that the epistolary commu-
nications now laid before the public were presented by
Colonel Thornton to an old school-fellow, who, by the
fortuitous occurrences of life, has become much reduced
in his circumstances, and who received full permission to
dispose of the manuscript to his own exclusive advan-
tage.

They are accordingly brought forward at a very consi-
derable expence, in a style of elegance which must speak
for itself; and as no pains have been spared in the execu-
tion, it is presumed they will be found worthy of public ap-
probation.

EDITOR.

CONTENTS TO VOLUME THE FIRST.

LETTER I.

PACE

Departure from ThomvUle Royal.—Burleigh.— Arri-
val in London. — Passport. — Pitt Place. — Description of
the Country in the Vicinity of Brighton. — Observations on
the Beagle. — Brighton — Prince of Wales's Pavilion — As-
sembly Rooms — Public Libraries — Hot and Cold Baths —
JVfieat-Ears. — Embarkation for Dieppe. — The State Cabin
of a Packet-Boat. — Shooting Wild-Fowl. — Trial of a Gun
of a singular Construction. — Enormous Oysters and Fish
called Toads. — Politeness of a Swedish Captain. — Striking
Similarity betxioeen the Coasts of Brighton and Dieppe. —

Debarkation. — Honours paid to Col. T by the Soldiers

and Seamen. — Harbour of Dieppe — Pier — Quays — De-
scription of the Town and its Environs — Inhabitants —
Cauchoises. — Diversity of Manners between the French
and English. — French Carriages and Horses. — Tree of
Liberty. — Interview with the Prefect ------- l — 19

LETTER 11.

Description of the Country beyond Dieppe. — Rouen — Cathe-
dral of Notre-Dame — Church of St. Ouen — Bridge of
Boats — Marchc aux Vaux, the Scene of Joan d Arc's Exe-

b 2

Xn CONTENTS.

FACE

cution — Market for Horses held on Sunday — Singular
Prerogative of the Archbishop under the old Regi7nc —
Poplars improperly chosen as Trees of Liberty — Botanical
Garden — Manufactures. — Humorous Mistake respecting
coloured Eggs -------------- 20 — 27

LETTER III.

Civilities received by Col. T frotn the Prefect and Inha-
bitants of Roue7i. — Description of his travelling Equipage.
— Interview with Mr. Morris. — The French-Horn. — In-
troduction to several Sporting Gentlemen. — The Farm-
House. — Similarity of Character between the Sportsmen
of France and Yorkshire. — A Rendezvous. — Picqueurs. —
A Fox-Hunt. — Norma7idy Cider. — Shooting Excursion. —
Mr. Godart's. — A Boar-Hunt. — Champ de Bataille. — El-
bceuf — Dinner given by the Sportsmen of Rouen. — Col.

T 's Arrival announced in the Newspaper. — Cote-rotie

Grapes. — Curious Dining-Table -------- 28 — 41

LETTER IV.

Aspect of the Country beyond Rouen.— A dilapidated Mo-
nastery. — Delightful View from a Hill in the Vicinity of
St. Ouen. — An Intruder. — Magnificence of Rural Sce-
nery on the Continent. — A public Holiday. — Climate of
France peculiarly favourable to Vegetation. — Observations
on the French Wities. — Exorbitant Charge for a Breakfast

CONTENTS. XM

PAGE

at Vaudreuil. — The Aubergiste and the English Amhassor
dor. — Ch(}teaude Vaudreuil. — Retnarhable Shorn' of Oats. —
Chdteau de Marquis de Conjlans. — Heception at Louviers-.
Beauty of the adjacent Country. — Evreux. — The Arch-
bishop of Narbo?ine. — Chateau de Narbonne. — Brief Ac-
count of the ylrtist Poussin. — Botanical Garden. — Passy.
— Property of the Noblesse transferred to Plebeians - - 42 — 53

LETTER V,

Vernon. — Appearance of the Vineyards. — Seat of the Due
de Sully. — Chateau intended for Sale. — Horses of Nor-
mandy said to be restive in the Cherry Season. — Forest of
St. Germain. — The Palace. — Conversation with an aged
Frenchman respecting the Government. — Remarks on the
Agriculture of France ----------- 54 — 61

LETTER VI.

View of Versailles. — Palace, Gardens, and celebrated Water^
Works of Marly. — Palace of Versailles — A curious Table
formed of a single Plank of Vine — Orange Trees of a pro-
digious Size and Age — Anecdote of the Duchess of Bur-
gtmdy. — Introduction to General Beaumont. — The School
of the Manege — General Fault in Shoeing Horses. — Divi-
sions of the Palace — Sporting Subjects, painted for the
late King — Singular Custom observed with respect to Visi-
tants.— The Manufactory of Fire-Arms — Enormous Prices

XIV CONTENTS.

PAGE

given for Guns and Pistols — Interview with the Director
of the Manufactory, and subsequent Trials of Guns — Su-
periority of the English Manufactures — Place appointed
for such Experiments. — Arrival at Paris. — Skettles, a fa-
vourite Hecreation among French Officers ----- 62 — 73

LETTER VII.

General Remarks. — Monsieur Perregaux. — Interview with
General Duroc. — Presentation of Pistols, designed for
the First Consul. — Particular Attention shown to Colonel

T by the Soldiery. — Monsieur Pellerin. — Public Walks

rendered unpleasant by the Dust, and want of Gravel. —
Striking Difference between the Environs of Paris and
London — That Difference accounted for. — Palais Royal. —
Riding-House. — Site of the Bastille. — Gun-makers. —
Musee central des Arts. — Improvemetits at the Tuileries —
Venetian Horses. — Visit to the Opera — Botanical Garden.
— Gobelin's Manufactory. — Prince Branisky. — Mess. Rid-
ley and Brandling.— Account of the Frescati - - - - 74 — 84

LETTER VIII.

Excursion to Ermenonville. — Rye Harvest. — Triennial drain-
ing of Water. — Jean Jacques Rousseau. — The Hermitage.
— Ermenonville. — Himting Party. — Pont Chartrain — Ge-
nerals Moreau and Macdonald. — Hunting Roe-buck. — Ob-
servations on trying for Game. — English Toasts difficult to
be explained to the French Ladies — Madame Moreau —
Mrs. Macdonald. — Tea introduced at Midnisht. — Ext en-

CONTENTS. XV

PAGE

sive Estates of M. d'Etallier. — France well adapted for the
Joys of the Chase. — Grosbois, the late Seat of General
Moreau 85-97

LETTER IX.

Call at the Versailles Manufactory. — Return to Paris.— List
of French Wines. — Genteel Company at the Frescati. —
Buonaparte's Habits of Life. — Suits of Chancery. — Mu-
seum of French Monuments. — Sepulchre of Abelard and
Heloise — Le Noir.— Gallery of Statues. — Apollo Belvi-
dere. — Opera Dancers and Singers. — Literview with an
Italian Lady 98—105

LETTER X.

Museum of Paintings — Picture of Dead Game — Plan of co-
pying the finest pieces. — Statue of Henry IV. — Estates re-
maining unsold. — National Institute. — Excursion from
Paris. — Park of Seaux. — Chateau of the ci-devant Du-
chesse d'Orleatis. — German Dinner. — Value of Cattle,
and National Property. — Plantations of Acacia. — Count
Lauragais. — Madame Tallien. — Specimen of Copies from
the Pictures in the Museum. — St. Cloud. — Paintings at
Versailles — Stables — Opera-House — Bed-Chamber of the
late Queen. — Petit Trianon. 106 — 116

LETTER XI.

Shooting-match at Versailles. — Account of Col. T '5 Gun,

called Buonaparte. — Seve Manufactory of Porcelain,—^

Xvi CONTENTS.

FACE

Monsieur de Lucays. — Strangers excluded from the Pa-
lace of the Tuileries.— Interview with Mr. Merry. — Sir
Capel Molineux.—A vexatious Deluj.—Col. T mis-
taken for Lord Whitworth.— Consular Beverage.— Consu-
lar Review. — Mameluke Corps. — Cuirassiers. — Introduc-
tion to Buonaparte. — Brief Description of his Person. —
Thanks voted by the English to Monsieur de Lucays.—
Monsieur De Bois. — Introduction to several sporting Gen-
tlemen - 117-128

LETTER XII.

Eremonville. — Picture of the Transfiguration at the Musee
central des Artes. — Bagatelle. — An early Visit. — Seat of
Monsieur Beaumarchc. — Prince of Conti's Estate. — Singu-
lar Toast given at a Pic-Nic Party by Tom Paine. — Ex-

cursio7i to Meudon. — Mr. P an unskilful Charioteer.

— The Butcher's Dog. — Meudon. — Beautifid Prospect of

the adjacent Country ------------ 129 — 138

LETTER XIII.

Hospital of Invalids. — Monument of the Marshal Turenne.
— Church of Notre-Dame. — Another Visit to the Musee
Central des Arts. — A private Ball. — Favourite Dances,
and thinness of the Ladies" Dresses. — Delicacy with which
the Waltz is performed by the young Parisians. — Paris a
most desirable Residence for a Man of Fortune — Justly

CONTENTS. XVli

PAGE

called an Epitome of the World. — Traiteurs. — Origin of
the Restaurateurs, — Departure from the Capital. — Es-
tampe. — MereviUe. — Orleans. — The Cathedral. — Market-
place.— Cotton Manufactory, — Principal Articles of Trade 139 — 147

LETTER XIV.

French Roads. — Charming sporting Country. — Castle of
Forte Imbault. — Wool-Fair. — The late Marquis de Pier-
compt, a Victim of the Revolution. — Curtailment of an
exorbitant Charge. — Castle of the Marquis de Lucays. —
Singular Breakfast. — Excursion to the Lake of the Forge.
— Fishing. — A laughable Accident. — Home Park. — Natu-
ral Grottoes. — Depredations committed on the Castle. —

Shooting. — Col. T endangered by the plunging of a

Blood-Mare. — Ret U7'n to Dinner 148 — 157

LETTER XV.

Trying for Roe-Buck. — The Game shot by Col. T 's Air-

Gun, and carried home with great Parade. — Blindmans
Buf a fashionable Game. — Black Peaches. — Excellent Fish.
Charming sporting Estate. — Blois. — Fish-Market — Barrel-
led-Frogs.— A Disappointment. — French Language spoken
in its greatest Purity at Blois. — Chambord. — The Park. —
Stagnation occasioned by the Revolution. — Carriage of a
singular Construction. Beautiful Tract of Country. —
Picturesque Ruin. — Roche. — French-Horns supply the
Want of a Direction-Post. — Arrival at Le Gedonaire. - 158 — 168

VOL. I.

WOLF-HUNTING IN FRANCE;

INCLUDING

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE WOLF:

IN ILLUSTRATION OF THOSE PARTS OF THE TOLLOWIKG

JLETTERS

WHICH RELATE TO THAT PARTICULAR SPORT.

WOLF - HUNTING.

X HE chace of the wolf has this advantage over all others, that while
it is of itself extremely sporting, it is, at the same time, very useful,
and often even necessary; nothing being more destructive than those
animals which have frequently desolated the country, either by surpriz-
ing the flocks, or by attacking children, whom they carry off and de-
vour. Those who have lived for any time at a distance from large
towns must know how formidable is the neighbourhood of wolves,
particularly when they have young ones to support. These animals
are extremely ravenous, and almost always hungry; when they find
nothing to satisfy their appetite in the woods, they spread themselves
over the country, entering villages, and seizing, with incredible dexte-
rity, whatever is capable of appeasing their hunger. They lie in wait
for their prey, and scarcely ever fail to attack it the first favourable op-
portunity that presents itself They, besides, make dreadful havoc
among the deer in the forests, particularly in winter. The public inte-
rest, as well as their own, should therefore induce the lovers of the
chace to make war on this animal.

Before we proceed on this subject, it may, perhaps, be necessary to
observe, that the hunting of the wolf being entirely confined to the
countries of the continent, and particularly to France, many of the

Xxii WOLF-HUNTING.

technical terms employed in this interesting sport are of such a nature,
that it is impossible to render them into the English language. Th^
original expressions have, therefore, in some cases, been retained in
the following pages.

Terms employed in hunting the Wolf. ^

Wolves are divided, according to their age, into cub-wolves, old
wolves, and wolves ;. their age may be discovered by their feet, and
their foot-steps are called the track of the wolf.

When the wolf goes a gentle pace without hurrying himself, he is
said to go with confidence.

When he goes in quest of food it is said, he is seeking food, he is
going to feed on carrion, he seized the carrion, he glutted himself with
carrion.

In the season of copulation, wolves are said to be at heat; some
sportsmen have employed the term rut, but that can only be applied to
the stag, the deer, and the wild-boar.

When the wolf has covered the female it is said, the wolf has coupled,
the wolf has covered or lined the she-wolf

When they have produced whelps, they are called a litter of young
wolves. It commonly consists of five, six, and seven, and never of less
than three.

We say, the head, the teeth, the skin of the wolf.
The nipples of a she-wolf are called teats.

The places where they have scratched up the earth are called de-
chaimitres, and we say the wolf has torn up such a place.
The place where he hes is called his kennel.
We say the foot-steps of a wolf; some have called them the track.

WOLF-HUNTING. Xxlil

When we see the wolf of which we are in chase, we cry — Velelait, Ve-
lelau, harlou chieiis, harlou, veleci aller, veleci aller.

We say the howling of wolves ; to howl for wolves is to entice them
to you, that you may shoot them in the night.

To place greyhounds in stations is to post them in a situation be-
tween two thickets, when you expect the wolf to leave one of them
and to go into the other.

Manner of distinguishing a He-Wolf from a She-Wolf by the Feet.

The he-wolf has a larger and thicker foot than the she-wolf. When
the wolf is young, his foot expands as he walks ; when he grows old
his foot is narrower, both before and behind ; his claws are thick, long,
and close ; his heel thick and broad, and the fore-part of the foot thicker
than the hinder-part. When the wolf goes with assurance, that is,
when he walks his ordinary pace, he commonly puts the hind-foot into
the step, or track of the fore-foot. It is easy to perceive this in wet
weather, or in snow; but when he goes at a trot, the hind-foot keeps
at the distance of three fingers from the fore-foot. The she-wolf has a
longer and narrower foot than the male ; her heel is smaller and c^loser
and her claws are not so strong. By taking notice of these differences,
the sportsman may know whether he is in the track of a he or a she-wolf.

The Time in which Wolves are in Heat.

It is commonly in winter that these animals are in heat ; but some
she-wolves are not in heat so early as others. The old ones are more
early, and the young ones later. In general, they are not in heat for
the first time till they are nearly two years old, or between twenty-one

Xxiv WOLF-HUNTING.

and twenty-two months; because, as the mothers are in heat again the
same year they Utter, the young ones being then only nine or ten
months old, have not attained a sufllcient growth to be in heat; so that
they are not in that state till the second heat which comes ujDon the
mother after their birth. The she-wolf produces her first litter about
fche conclusion of her second year; it is always in the most inclement
season of the year that these beasts are in heat ; the old ones till nearly
the month of February, and the young ones till towards the end of that
month. The she-wolves are extremely coy before they yield to the ad-
vances of the males; and if several of the latter happen to meet when
they have found a female, they fight for her with the utmost obstinacy,
and the strongest wins the prize. The jealousy of these animals is ex-
treme, and is carried to such a height, that, if by accident a he-wolf)
after lining a female, is met alone with her by several males in heat,
they Avill attack and tear him in pieces.

The Time xvTien She-TFolves Litter.

When the she-wolf is big, she commonly goes three months and a
half, or more, that is upwards of a hundred days. They litter earlier
or later, according to the time they were in heat. Their most nume-
ous litters consist of six or seven, but never of less than three, and
there are always more males than females. When the she-wolf is about
to litter, she seeks some large ditch in an unfrequented place, or some
hole at a distance from any road, into which she retires. She even
seeks to avoid the presence of the male, because, if he were present
when she brings forth her young, he would not fail to devour them. If)
however, the female happens soon afterwards to die, the male appear-
ing to be actuated by paternal affection, feeds the young cubs, defends

WOLF-HUNTING. XXV

them against ever)'- enemy, and when they have acquired a little
strength, he conducts them into large corn-fields, and other situations
not far from the forest or thickets. He there places them in security
while he prowls in quest of food. He carries to them all he can catch,
such as sheep, or other animals, but he first devours them himself, and
on his return to his cubs, he disgorges the half-digested food, which is
swallowed by the cubs. When his prey consists only of puppies, or
fowls, he carries it off alive : At first he gives these animals to his cubs
to play with, and then instructs them how to kill them. When he and
she-wolves have young ones, they are extremely alert in avoiding the
snares that may be laid for them ; and when they hear the report of a
gun, or the cry of dogs, they decamp as speedily as possible, and carry
away with them all their family.

Manner of discovering the Places where She-JVolves have littered.

In the month of August, or September, the cubs having acquired a
little strength, begin to walk about, and to sport among the thickets.
They never remove far from the woods, because there is then no corn
in the plains. In looking for them, you should go into the thickest
part of the woods, and the closest thickets, and, in particular, take
notice of all the places near Avhich there are marshes. The females
usually seek those situations, as well for the convenience of retreat, as
to allay the burning thirst caused by the season, and the food on which
they subsist. It is commonly in the morning and evening that the
young wolves go to the marshes. You may take young dogs to the
spot, but you ought to have one in particular that is well trained to that
kind of search ; in beating the wood he will not fail to discover the
wolf, he will even pursue him, rouse him, and follow him to his haunt;

VOL. I. d

XXVi WOLF-HUNTING.

when there you should caress and encourage him, to induce him after-
Vards to go and pursue him alone. The movements of the old dog
will animate the younger; you should, therefore, sometimes send him
forward to excite the others, and afterwards you may call him behind to
see whether the young dogs are capable to go by themselves. They
should be caressed a good deal the first time they manifest timidity;
j'OU should go befoi-e them, to teach them to pursue by themselves; and
as the young wolves will not easily quit their situations, you must make
the dogs return to the charge, and follow the scent, and then after hav-
ing encouraged them, call them off.

To train young dogs to hunt the wolf, the sportsman must proceed in
the following manner : — He should take them to the wood every two
days toAvards the places which he supposes to be frequented by the
w olves ; he cannot fail to discover them, because the he or she-wolf al-
ways goes in the morning to the cubs, and then retires into other thick-
ets to deceive the hunters ; it is then that you have an excellent oppor-
tunity of employing blood-hounds to advantage. The thickets chosen
by the wolves for their retreat are easily known ; near them there are
always some fragments of their prey, by which they are betrayed, as
bones of horses, skeletons of dogs and other animals. It is, besides,
easy to remark whether the grass about the spot is trodden, which is a
sign that the young wolves have come thither to lie down.

Equipage for hunting the Wolf.

Having described the wolf, and the manner of discovering him in a
general way, it is necessary to enter into the details of the chase ; but
it may not be amiss previously to say something of the proper equipage
for that purpose.

WOLF-HUNTING. XXvii

In this respect it is not necessary to go to any great expcnce, as
twenty-five, or thirty hounds are sufficient. They ought to be of a
good size, to have a grey coat, and to be marked with red about the
ej^es and on the cheeks; by these marks you may discover their greater
or less degree of eagerness in the chace. You ought, hkewise, to have
six or eight leashes of large, choice grey-hounds, and some good whelps.
They encourage each other, and attack the wolf with the greater vi-
gour. A good whipper-in also is highly necessary, two attendants for the
blood-hounds, two for the hounds, and one to slip the grey-hounds.

Your blood-hounds for hunting the wolf cannot be too good ; they
ought to be bold, lively, and full of ardor. When they possess all these
qualities, you derive from them a two-fold advantage ; for, besides that
which you enjoy in the chace, they likewise serve to train other dogs.
A good sportsman ought to be prudent as to the service he requires of
his dogs, and he should be very careful of them, for the chace of the
Avolf is more fatiguing to the blood-hounds than any other kind, the
wolf being naturally crafty and mistrustful. From the moment that he
perceives they are after him, he is constantlj^ going, and when he finds
himself pursued, he changes his abode, and leads his pursuers a very
fatiguing chace. It is, therefore, advisable to spare the blood-hounds,
and to make them serve alternately. A day of rest gives them fresh
ardor, and enables the sportsmen to hunt with more satisfaction.

The Search of the llolf.

The wolf is tried for in various ways, according to the difference of
the seasons. If it be in winter, j'ou should go to the wood some time
before sun-rise, because that is about the time when the wolves repair
to it. In summer there is no occasion to go so early, because those ani-

d2 f

Xxviii WOLF-HUNTING.

mals frequently stay among the corn, and do not return to the wood till
the day is advanced. Therefore, without being in too great a hurry, it
will be sufficient to beat twice along the skirts of the thicket towards
the corn, and, if you meet with nothing, it will be advisable, on your
return, to beat the contrary side.

There is a considerable difference between trying for the stag and the
wolf The former remains a long time in the thickets; sometimes he
does not even leave them to pass the night in the open fields; but the
conduct of the wolf is exactly the reverse. Hunger, it is said, drives
him out of the wood, and as he subsists entirely by carnage, he fre-
quently approaches farms, villages, and even towns, and seizes what-
ever falls in his Avay. If, by accident, he remains a considerable time
in a thicket without quitting it, even during the night, it is only Avhen
he has taken a deer, or some animal that he is occupied in devouring.

When the assistant huntsman shall have arrived with his limier, or
blood-hound, at the place containing the object of search, he must
loosen the leash, and make his dog advance before him more than half
the length of it, continually caressing him, and saying — Va outi-e Ri-
baut hau mon valet, hau lo lo lo lo, veleci, veleci alle mon petit. It is
well frequently to repeat these words, because nothing more encou-
rages and animates the dog in the pursuit. You must take good care
that the blood-hound may not take the scent of some wolf that has
entered the forest by some ravine, or great road ; and when you per-
ceive that the dog is about to acknowledge the scent, and that he puts
his nose either to the branches, or the tufts of grass, you must encourage
him ; for dogs are naturally not very eager after the wolf; and I have
remarked, that they are not very eager in quest of him. Besides, the
scent of the wolf does not continue more than two or three hours, and
to be enabled to unkennel him, he should not have passed more than

WOLF-IIUIS'TIKG XXIX

two hours; otherwise the blood-hounds will scarcely be able to hunt up
to him, especially if it be on a beaten dry road. For he leases more
scent behind him when he runs upon the grass, or among the bushes,
because he touches whatever he meets, as well with his body as his feet,
and when the scent is protected fi'om the wind or sun, and this circum-
stance assists he blood-hounds in the pursuit.

When the huntsman perceives that his dog has got upon the scent of
a wolf, he should encourage him in these terms : — What is he there
boy, — hau Vamy apves, t'eleci y dit vrai, and he should frequently repeat
them in order to encourage the dog, which he must continue to follow,
either by the side of the way, or in the faux-fuyant. Too much at-
tention cannot be used on this occasion, because there is always reason
to apprehend, lest the scent should grow too weak, and lest the blood-
hound should relinquish it at the first cross-way to which the wolf may
have betaken himself. It is to be observed, that when the wolf passes
a cross-way, he always stops there for some time, either to dung, or to
make water against some bush of broom, or furze, or a tuft of grass.
He then immediately scratches up a spot on the surface of the ground
four feet in extent, tearing up the turf backwards with his claws. He
then continues his course, and sometimes conceals himself at a consi-
derable distance; sometimes he likewise endeavours to give his pur-
suers the slip, and instead of following the road takes another, and turns
towards the thickest part of the wood, with a view to enter it. Fortius
purpose he takes the first double he comes to, or some favourable pas-
sage, which happens principally when the earth is moist. It is at such
times that the sportsman should be careful to train the hound to the
scent, at about half the length of the line, and to encourage his blood-
hound more and more. If it be still early in the day, he may follow
the drag with little noise, and withdraw secretly to proceed before. He

XXX WOLF-HUNTING,

should observe, that during this time, the hound may surprize the wolf
either by some faux-fui/anf, or by some glade, by which he may have
penetrated into the recesses of the wood, for wolves have different
paces, according as they are more or less hungry. When driven by
hunger, they are almost incessantly on the foot, and proceed forward
till they have found something to eat; but when they have glutted them-
selves, they frequently retire into the first thicket they come to, pro-
vided they find favourable places for their kennel, as hollies, fern, and
other shrubs.

If the sportsman be at the forest on a hunting-day, he will content
himself with ascertaining whether the wolf has entered the thicket.
He will endeavour to discover the little avenue or glade by w^hich he
may have entered ; he will caress his blood-hound, and afterwards break
the branches at the entrance of the thicket. After he has convinced
himself that he has discovered the track of the wolf, he will return to
the company to make his report ; but if he had no other intention than
to exercise his dog, or if it is a considerable time since he dislodged the
wolf, he may, as soon as he has reconnoitred, return to the inclosure of
broken boughs to discover the traces, then push on and dislodge the
Avolf, and follow the drag to the haunt, caressing his blood-hound, and
continually using the above-mentioned terms. If the blood-hound be
young, his ardour will abate on approaching the haunt, because the
scent of the wolf naturally inspires dogs with terror, and there are very
few which dare venture to follow him by themselves. It is, therefore,
necessary to speak to him a good deal, in order to animate and em-
bolden him to pursue, and he should be much caressed on the track.
Widi regard to the haunt I shall observe here, that woh^es frequently
change them according to the difference of the seasons; for instance,
in summer they chuse an open place among the grass on which the sun

WOLF-HUNTING. XXXi

shines a little ; but in winter they repair to the recesses of the woods or
thickets, among heath or fern. They seldom fix their abode beneath
very high trees, excepting they find there very thick bushes, or abun-
dance of fern or rushes.

Li what Manner it may be discovered that the Blood-Hoimd has got
Scent of a Wolf.

It is very difficult to get sight of a wolf on account of his great swift-
ness; he even scarcely leaves behind him any traces, excepting in win-
ter in a white frost, or in summer when there is much dust. In all
other circumstances you may be said to proceed with no great certainty ;
and if a person has not had long experience in the chace, he frequently
takes many a step in vain. There are, howe^ er, certain signs by means
of which you may discover the object of the blood-hound's movements,
and consequently distinguish whether it is a wolfj or some other animal
of which the dog has got the scent. If it be a wolf, he will not fail to
go and smell at the branches and the grass the wolf has touched, and
will immediate^ proceed in pursuit of him. If the wolf makes a good
impression on the ground, and the dog has any scent, you will see him
pursue briskly, provided you take care to encourage him from time to
time on the drag. But if the wolf passed very early, and you are not
on the spot in good time, the blood-hound will lose the scent, particu-
larly if the wolf proceeds in a right line, and is gone to a considerable
distance, for a dog must have an excellent nose to discover a wolf that
has passed longer than two hours and a half, or three hours; and he is
liable to change if there be any deer in the thicket, or if he have not
been exclusively trained to woU-hunting. When the sportsman per-
ceives, by the manner of the dog, that it is tlie track of a wolf which

XXxii. \V0LF-HUNTIN<5.

he has discovered, he must endeavour to find out whether the animal
is alone, or in company. They generally go in pairs; it is only in
seasonable weather that he can discover their number and quality, by
examining their foot-steps with attention, conformably to what I have
already said on that subject, in treating of the difference between the
foot of the he and she-wolf.

Manner of making a Report of the Discovery of a Wolf

It appears that it is not very easy to distinguish the track of wolves
from every other animal. A sportsman should possess much experience,
and be capable of just observation to be able to make an accurate re-
port.

A report is commonly made in the following manner :
I believe I have discovered the track of one or two wolves, or of a
he and a she-wolf, or of several, according to the indications one has
observed; they came from such a thicket, or they went in quest of
food toward such a village ; they killed so many deer, which I found in
following them, and they afterwards repaired to such a thicket. I con-
tinued the search, and as I imagine that their direct road lies from such
a thicket, in which I have reason to suppose they are, to such other
thicket, there is a fine opportunity for driving him into the open coun-
try, and an advantageous situation for placing greyhounds.

Manner of placing Greyhounds.

The greyhounds for the wolf are divided into three classes, the le-
tmers d'estric, levriers compagnons, likewise called the flank-greyhounds,
and levriers de teste. There ought, in general, to be two leashes of

WOLF-IIUNTING.

each kind, each leash being composed of two or three greN'hounds.
The two laiases d'estric are first placed by the side of" the tliicket near
the spot at which 5'ou imagine the wolf" will break. These two leashes
should be about 5 or 600 paces distant from each other, more or less,
according to the situation of the j)lace. Each leash should be sup
ported by a horseman, who should take care to conceal himself, with the
dogs, on the skirts of the wood down wind, to push the wolf when the
dogs are let loose, and to make him take to the open countr3^ At five
or 600 paces from the former, and about half way between the two
thickets, must be posted the flank greyhounds; the two relays of these
are placed opposite to each other for the wolf to pass between them.
Attention must be paid to keep these still more concealed than the for-
mer, lest the wolf should perceive them, and the valets must attend to
loose them as soon as the wolf is ready to pass. The levriers de teste
should be placed near the thicket which the wolf is expected to make
for ; and when he is observed to approach, pursued by the other dogs,
the levriers de teste should then be brought forward, and let loose upon
the wolf The latter being stronger, and more furious than the others,
soon bring the wolf to bay ; the valets should then halloo up the blood-
hounds, and hasten to the wolf as speedily as possible. As soon as the
dogs hold him to baj^, the valets must take care to provide themselves with
short thick sticks to thrust down the wolf's throat the moment they are
within reach; because that animal never quitting any thing that he once
seizes upon, the stick which is presented to him protects the dogs fi'om
the wounds he might otherwise inflict. The huntsmen must then em-
ploy their hunting-knives, observing the precaution when they approach
to stab the wolf, to have one hand always at the point of the knife, lest
they should hurt the dogs ; as I have frequently seen dogs in the hurry
VOL. I, e

XXXiv WOLF-HUNTING.

maimed in consequence of the neglect of it. When a favourable mo-
ment for stabbing or houghing the wolf jDresents itself, the knife must be
thrust through his body near the shoulder.

Manner of hunting the Wolf xvith Hounds.

To succeed in this mode of hunting, the greyhounds must, above
all things, be placed in the manner as before described. You must then
post on the side of the thicket at which you wish to prevent the wolves
from issuing ten or a dozen men, each provided with a rattle to be em-
ployed on the occasion. Care must be taken to station them at the dis-
tance of 60 paces from each other, more or less, according to the extent
of the thicket. When every thing is ready, the leader gives the order,
and the dogs are immediately taken to the hrisies to be let loose. The
whipper-in holds the dog to the hrisces in the thicket, to make them take
the scent, and then conducts them along the track towards the spot
where he supposes the wolves reside, continually encouraging them by
the cries of hala ila la tayau veiled aller. He blows his horn from time to
time to animate them in the pursuit. The noise of the dogs will, per-
haps, make the wolf quit his kennel long before they come up, but
sometimes he waits till they are close to him before he breaks. If the
huntsman perceives him, he must then call to his dogs in these terms :
Velelau, velelau, harlou, harlou, veiled aller. He will then sound his
horn to make them follow the traces, and then cry : Harlou diiens, har-
lou veled aller. When the dogs have taken to the traces they will not
fail to rouse the Avolf, and pursue him with eagerness ; the huntsman
will then sound his horn to animate them still more.

The wolf thus pursued will, perhaps, hang cover before he breaks it.

WOLF-IIUNTING. XXXV

that he may obtain the advantage of the wind in his flight; but the
men stationed to keep him in will make use of" their rattles, the sound
of Avhich will head him, and make him go off without having the ad-
vantage of the wind. AVhile the wolf is thus in suspense concerning the
way he shall take, he is briskly pushed by the dogs, supported by the
huntsman, who will incessantly keep crying: Ha y fuit la chiens, y fuit
la ha ha. He will then sound two blasts, and again begin hallooing:
Hou veleci aller, veleci aller. At length the wolf finding himself pressed
by the dogs, the cries of the hunters, and the noise of those stationed to
keep him in, resolves to escape by the place where he hears no noise,
which is precisely the part next to the open country. He stops a
moment at the skirts of the wood, to observe whether he can see any
person, and he immediately sets off to cross the plain. He is suffered
to advance about one hundred paces, when the levriers d'estric, and
afterwards the others, are let loose upon him on the plan already men-
tioned. Two horsemen at the same time ride after him, to oblige him
to continue his course as it is of great consequence that he should be
kept in it ; but for this he would escape, as the attempt to run doAvn a
wolf is scarcely ever made. To command success in the latter case,
you ought to be perfectly sure of your relays, that the dogs were trained
exclusively to the chace of the wolf^ that there were neither deer nor
boars in the forest. This kind of chace would, besides, be long and
fatiguing, because the wolf is rarely blown : he runs a long time, never
a head, almost constantly viewing him for six or seven hours together.
The greyhounds placed in ambush greatly abridge this chace, and like-
wise render it more amusing and certain to the spectators.

As soon as a wolf is taken he should be given up to the hounds which
come up almost immediately, because othei-wise the greyhounds would
attack the hounds. It is therefore advisable, that they should be taken

e 2

Xxxvi WOLF-HUNTING.

off immediately and coupled, to return and go in quest of another, for
it is easy to take several wolves in one day. When this is intended to
be done, each should resume his former position ; as for those who are
stationed to prevent the animal's escape, they must not, on any account,
quit their post till they receive orders to that effect.

When the wolf is expiring, his death is announced by three loud
blasts of the horn. The huntsmen alight, and caress the dogs to excite
them to worry him. It is the duty of the whipper-in to cut off the ani-
mal's right foot, which he presents to the commander of the company.

Manner of chacing the She-Wolf and the young Cubs.

Nearly the same things are observed in the chace of the female as of
the male ; the same method of pursuit, and the same cries are em-
ployed : but the young wolves are chased with less precaution, and are
attacked even in their caverns by the dogs. As soon as the dogs have
discovered them they are seized with fear, and run from one side to the
other without ever quitting the thicket. The Avhippers-in must follow
and encourage the dogs, by three notes of his horn, and must speak
briskly to them in these terms: Ilarlou, harlou, hou veleci; this gives
the dogs fresh spirits, courage, and strength, and they rush upon the
young wolves with renewed ardor. When they have overtaken them
the huntsman dispatches them with his hunting-knife, always observing
the precaution mentioned above, lest the dogs should sustain any in-
jury.

If there are in the pack any young dogs which have not before been
in the chace, they might be made to begin with chacing the young
Avolves in company Avith old, steady hound-dogs. They would soon
learn, and be able to hunt. In their beginnings they ought to be ani-

woLr-nuNTL\"G. xxwii

mated and encouraged by frequent caresses with the hand ; and Avhen
the voung wolves are taken, they should be made to approach and to
ruffle on them, and pull them.

When the chace is over a retreat is sounded, all the dogs are collec-
ted, and the wolves that have been taken are carried away.

The blooding of the JVolf.

The blooding of the wolf differs very much from that of stag, deer,
and other beasts, which are gi\'en to the dogs on the spot. The scent
of the wolf is extremely strong, and the dogs Avould not taste the flesh
if care were not taken to disguise it. I have frequently remarked,
that dags .which manifested abundance of ardor in pursuit, durst not
venture to approach the animal to trample upon him when killed. No-
thing but great precaution and repeated caresses can overcome their aver-
sion to the flesh of the Avolf The following is the manner in which it
is prepared: —

The wolf must first be skinned, and the entrails taken out ; the head
is then cut off, but the skin and ears are left upon it ; the quarters are
then cut off, and are baked with the body in a very hot oven. While
the whole is roasting a <|uantity of small pieces of bread are put into
one or more tubs, into which are thrown the quarters of the wolf^ cut
into pieces, as soon as they come out of the oven. Upon this is then
poured a large potful of boiling water, into which, while heating, have
been put three or four pounds of grease, and the whole is well stirred
and mixed. When the whole is soaked, empty it out of the tubs upon
a piece of sacking made for the purpose, and stir it again, that the mix-
ture, which is still warm, may be in a state fit to be eaten by the dogs.
When every thing is ready for the blooding of the pack, the whipper-

XXXVIU WOLF-HUNTING.

in receives the switches from the hands of the first valet. He pre-
sents two to the commander of the company, who gives one to the
master to whom he helongs. The switches being distributed, the
kennel is opened, and the huntsmen sound the tune customary on
other occasions of this kind. At the same time, the skin and
head of the wolf are held before the dogs, that they may become
accustomed to that animal. After eating the mash, the roasted body
of the wolf to which the head has been affixed is presented to them at
the distance of 30 paces. The best way of making them eat it is to
shew it them at the point of a fork, and to animate them with words,
and the sound of the horn, and they will not fail to fall upon it with
eaoferness.

The foregoing is the French manner of preparing the animal for
winter ; the method employed in summer is somewhat different. The
quarters are roasted and cut in pieces as before ; but instead of water
boiled with grease, two or three pailfuls of milk, into which have been
put a quantity of very small pieces of bread, or rye-flour, are poured
over them; the whole is mixed together, and this mess is given the
dogs in the same manner as the other. They eat it willingly, and it is
extremely refreshing for them. The body is afterwards given them in
the manner before described.

Thus much for the French mode of treatment; their hounds will not
bear any comparison with those of the English breed. The former are
deficient in animation, and possess a very small share of mettle; while,
on the contrar)^ such is the blood of the well-bred English hound, that
he would instantly break up any wolf on seizing it.

The breeding of hounds, as well as horses, in England, have been
made a primary object among sporting gentlemen, which accounts for
their exclusive superiority in this country. Even with this advantage

WOLF-HUNTING.

XXXIX

in our favour, I do not approve of the plan of deliberately taking the
game, when killed, from the hounds : this operates as a check to them,
and creates a shyness. Hounds, upon killing their game, should be
allowed, and encouraged to eat it up, while their spirits are roused, and
the blood of the animal is warin : but, as wolf is a scent that some
hounds shew a fear of, they should be encouraged, by all means, to
run, kill, and devour it; and in no way should their ardor be checked,
even from the unkennelling to the death.

OBSERVATIONS

THE EMBELLISHMENTS TO VOLUME L

It is presumed, that the plates with which the present work is illustrated possess more
than ordinary value; not less on account of its having been the chief object of the artist
to make faithful and correct copies from nature, than that most of the subjects are se-
lected from those parts of the Continent which have never before been delineated by
the English draftsman. The peculiar route of the author differing so widely from that
of almost every other traveller who visited France during the cessation of hostilities
in the year 1802, has materially contributed to the accomplishment of this desirable
end.

Many sketches referred to in various parts of the following sheets it has been deemed
prudent to omit, on account of there not being sufficient time, in the course of the
journey, to perfect them from 7iature-^ therefore such only, as possess this advantage, are
introduced.

PLATE 1.

Vignette. — Scene taken in the Forest of Pont Chartrain.

PLATE 2.

A little Cabin with two Hammocks, and Ships Steward. — P. 8.

In the delineation before us, the chief requisite is true characteristic description,
and in this particular, accuracy was the primary object of the artist; by which the rea-

VOL. 1. f

xlii OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS,

der may be enabled to form some idea of the accommodation afforded in Prench
pacliet-boats. The character of the ship's steward was of a most whimsical cast^ and
excited a great degree of mirth among the passengers.

PLATE 3.

View from the Hotel dii Paquet-Boat, at Dieppe, looking towards the Ilarhoiir. — P. 1 1.

From the window of the above house this view was taken. Here appear to be
ruins' of an ancient castle, of which no other account could be obtained than that it has
stood for nearly two centuries. The cliffs in the distance, unlike those of Albion, wear
a sombre aspect.

PLATE 4.

Opposite the Inn at Dieppe. — High Water. — P. 14.

On beholding this scene, the spectator is presented with a beautifully luxuriant coim-
try in the distance. Through the valley the river takes a serpentine course, by which
the beauty of the surrounding country is greatly improved. Although this view was
also taken from the same point with the foregoing, it has a very different appear-
ance, in as much as the direction was immediately in front of the house ; the former
directly to the left of it.

PLATE 5.
The Pozcder Magazine at Dieppe, — P. 16.

This depot for gun-powder, of which article it generally contains a large quantity,
is situated by the river-side, and with a few contiguous houses of an inferior descrip-
tion, is necessarily detached from the town. The powder-magazine is a building of very
considerable strength; and the walls are entitled to particular notice, on account of their
uncommon substance. This view was taken at low water.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. xlii

PLATE 6.

Character at Dieppe. — P. Ij.

The pencil of the artist was exercised oh this subject near tlie same spot witli the pre-
ceding article; it aftbrds a pretty correct idea of the enormous size of the cocked-hats
worn in France ; particularly at Dieppe.

PLATE 7.

Portrait of a Fanners Daughter near Dieppe. — P. Ij.

This character was taken on a market-day at Dieppe ; and illustrates the description
of the remarkable caps called c.auchoises, given in the above-mentioned page. It should
be observed that these caps are richly embroidered with gold or silver, on a ground of
coloured silk, satin, or velvet ; which gives them a splendid appearance. The drapery
is sometimes composed of a single piece of rich lace, of considerable length, which
accounts, in some degree, for the enormous price of them, as stated in p. l6. ^he
heart aiid cross suspended from the neck of this female was of solid gold.

PLATE 8.
French Diligence. — P. 17.

This vehicle of conveyance is very ill contrived for travelhng, in which expedition is
so desirable ; and it affords us a very poor specimen of that ingenuitj- of invention for
which the people of France are so eminently distinguished among the nations of Eu-
rope. L^pon the roof is fixed the imperial, which usually contains six or seven persons,
beside a quantity of baggage, with which also the basket is generall}- filled, and pre-
sents a pile half as high again as the coach, secured by ropes and chains, drawn tight
by a large iron windlass. The body of the carriage rests upon stout thongs of leather,
fastened to heavy blocks of wood, whidi serve the purpose of springs; and the whole is
drawn by seven ill-conditioned horses. The three first of these animals are fastened to

f 2

Xliv OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

the cross-bar; the rest are in pairs, connected by rope-harness. The near horse of the
three first is generally mounted by the postillionj equipped in a huge pair of jack-boots^
(as hereafter described) which are always placed with much ceremony, like two tubs, on
the right side of his Rosinante, just before he ascends. " These curious protectors of
his legs," says an ingenious modern traveller, "■ are composed of wood and iron-hoops,,
softened within by stuffing, and give him all the dignity of riding in a pair of upright
portmanteaus!" With the carriages used in England the French diligence bears no
comparison ; where the mode of travelling in general, is upon the best possible footing,,
which is rendered extremely pleasant, and greatly facilitated by the good condition of.
the roads in almost every part of the kingdom.

PLATE 9.
Horse rode hy Colonel Thornton, when on a hunting-party. — P. 17.

This is a correct portraiture of the hunter rode by the author, when on a hunting-
party in the forest of Chambord ! It needs no comment.

PLATE 10.

Rouen from the Chartreuse. — P. 21.

This picturesque scene is taken from tlie rich valley in which the Chartreuse is si-,
tuated. On the right, in the foreground, stands the celebrated gardens of Vauxhall,
a place much frequented on Sundays by the people of Rouen, where fire- works are dis-
played, and other amusements take place. The hiUs behind the city are richly culti-
vated, and covered with vines and woods in great abundance, which, on account of
the distance, are not perceptible to the naked eye. Behind the cathedral of Notre
Dame, (which is distinguished from the other buildings by its eminence, and number
of towers) appears Mount-au-Malade, or the Mountain of Sickness.

PLATE 11.

View from the middle of the Bridge of Boats at Rouen. — P. 23.
The principal object in this scene is a small island which stands in the middle of the

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. xlv

river, near the bridge. On the left is seen the celebrated mountain of St. Catharine,
at the foot of which is situated the boulevard, a walk much frequented by the inhabi-
tants of Rouen.

PLATE 12.

Rouen from Mount-au-MaJade. — P. 25.

The views of this ancient city being taken from different points, will enable the
reader to form a more correct idea of it than could possibly be done by a single repre-
sentation. In the present scene the catiiedral of Notre Dame still conspicuously shews
itself; on the right of which, in the distance, appears the valley from which the pre-
ceding subject was taken. Behind the cathedral the Seine imposes itself on the eye,
beautifully winding its course to an immense distance, and bordered by hills of consi-
derable height.

PLATE 13.

View on the Seine, near' Rouen. — P. 44.

This chamiing landscape is so minutely described in the above-mentioned page, as
to render it unnecessary to say any thing more in the present instance. There were
two drawings taken on this enchanting spot ; the first of which was completed at the
moment Mr. Bryant was interrupted by the officer, as stated in p. 44. The alarm oc-
casioned by the presence of this intruder, deterred the artist from paying that minute
attention to the second drawing necessary to a correct and faithful copy from nature ;
it was therefore deemed proper to omit it altogether.

PLATE 14.

Chateau of the Marquis de Conjlans. — P. 48.

This seat of the once celebrated French commander was not only uninhabited, when
our author visited it, but the internal parts were in a state of ruin ; and the court-yard,
with the adjoining avenues, being covered with weeds, presented to the eye of the
traveller a very desolate appearance.

Xlvi OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

PLATE 15.

Chateau de Navarre. — P. 50.
This view is particularly described in the above-mentioned page.

PLATE 16.

P'iew near Vernon. — P. 54.

This certainly forms a very picturesque and interesting scene, which is greatly im-
proved by the appearance of the bridge crossing the Seine, and the rising ground in
the distance. It may fairly be pronounced a pleasing object in nature, worthy of the
pencil of the artist, and the admirer of landscape-scenery.

PLATE 17.

From the Terrace of the Palace of St. Germain. — P. 58.
The view which here presents itself is reckoned one of the most interesting and ex-
tensive in the environs of Paris. A part of the town is seen bordering on the river, which
branches into two different directions to a considerable distance. The whole face of
the country exhibits one continued scene of luxuriance, and forms a fair sample of
the high state of cultivation in that part of the continent. The building in the right-
hand fore-ground is attached to the terrace, and was much out of repair when this view
was taken. In the same direction, at some distance, is seen Marli, celebrated for its
curious water-works.

PLATE 18.

View of Versailles, coming from St. Germain. — P. 62.

The principal object worthy of remark in this scene is the palace of Versailles. The
view was taken in the morning, about eight o'clock, at which period the sun was in

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. xlvii

such direct opposition to tlie eye of the artist, that it deprived him of the advantage
of perceiving the various angles and projections wliich such buildings generally present.
Yet, as it was the only opportunity which offered, in the course of the tour, to make
a drawing from this spot, there was no alternative. The great paved road so dis-
tinguishable in the fore-ground, runs in a direct line towards the palace. Versailles
appears in the distance, on the left of the palace.

PLATE 19.

Chateau of Versailles from the Terrace. — P. 66.

The view before us presents only the central projection of this magnificent pile ; the
first floor of which forms one capacious apartment, and was occupied as a state-room
bv the late court of France. The ceiling is ornamented with paintings by the cele-
brated Le Brun, the founder of the French school. In the front of the palace are two
large basins, one of which only appears in the present view, in consequence of the ho-
rizon of the artist being so very low as not to admit of the introduction of the other.

The gardens attached to this building are very extensive, and display a greater degree
of taste than most others in France. In various parts are several capacious basins, on
the margins of which are placed gigantic figures in bronze ; and in the centre of each
rises a fountain, which, from the brilliant effect produced by the rising and setting of
the sun, appears like showers of gold.

PLATE 20.

Sporting Apparatus. — P. 70.

The gronpe of sporting implements here introduced are entitled to particular notice,
on account of the superior excellence of their manufacture, as well as for the pecu-
liar plan upon which they are constructed. The air-gun stands among the foremost,
and is particularly described as above. The others are as follow : —

A. Thxee-ban-elled pistol, presented to the First Consul by the author.

B. Sporting-case, which contains a fowling-piece, shot-bag, bottle and cup, marked

Xlviii OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

M. and every thing necessary for the pursuit of game. The hd is so contrived as to en-
close refreshment. When shut, it is slung 6n one side of the saddle, and carried with

great ease .

C. Case for gun-barrels, carried as the before-mentioned articles. All the au-
thor's guns are ingeniously contrived to take to pieces in an instant, which makes
their portability ve»y desirable. The barrel is screwed on near the lock, as may be seen ^
at K. L. and is as firm, as if the gun were in one piece.

D. Fourteen-barrelled gun, of very superior workmanship, and remarkably hght.
This piece is more worthy of notice as a curiosity, than for its service in sporting;
notwithstandino-, it may be let off with wonderful facility and effect. The barrels are
beautifully browned ; the bore formed as at E. F.

G. Shot-case, made from a piece of double-barrelled gun, and is extremely conve-
nient.

H. Patent shot-moulds.

I. Powder and shot-case ; made from the same material as the article G.

Indeed, it may be fairiy presumed, that the author possesses a greater quantity of
sporting apparatus of the most valuable and curious manufacture than any other sport-
ing oentleman in England ; as he has been at a very considerable expence, and spent a
meat portion of time and pains in the accomplishment of this desirable end.

PLATE 21.

Tomb of Rousseau on the Island of Poplars. — P. 87.

In contemplating this scene, it is probable the reader will feel more than a common
degree of interest. The spot is particularly distinguished on account of the remains of
the above celebrated character being once deposited there. It has been a principal
object with the artist to produce a correct representation ; how far he has succeeded,
he is content to leave to the memory and judgment of those who have visited the place.

In addition to what is already mentioned on this subject in pages 87 and 88 of vol. 1.
it may not here, perhaps, be improper to introduce some further account of Rous-
seau, and the famous place of his interment.

M. Girardin, the proprietor of Ermenonville, formerly granted free access to any
one who applied to visit the Island of Poplars. This liberty, however, was soon abused.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

xlix

by many idle and wanton people, who wrote offensive inscriptions on the tomb, and
€ven mutilated the sculpture ; which ultimately occasioned the place to be shut to
strangers. Scarcely a week passed in which there were not gates to repair, which had
been violently forced ; or persons caught amusing themselves with destroying, merely
for the pleasure of doing mischief.

The design of the monument was executed by M. Robert, and the sculpture by
Jje Soeur.

On the south side is a bas-relief representing a woman seated at the foot of a palm-
tree, the emblem of fecundity : she supports with one hand her son whom she is suck-
ling, and in the other she is holding Einile. Behind her is a group of women who are
offering fruits and flowers on an altar erected before a statue of Nature. In one cor-
ner is seen a child burning swaddling-clothes, and different bandages formerly used for
infants, while others are leaping around, and pla3ang with a cap, the emblem of liberty.
The pilasters on each side of the bas-i-elief are decorated with two figures ; one repre-
senting Love, the other Eloquence, with their attributes.

On the corresponding pilasters is seen Nature represented b}' a mother suckling her
children ; Truth by a naked female holding a torch. Lachrymatory vases are sculp-
tured at each end. On the pediment on this side two doves are expiring at the foot of
an urn, on torches smoking and reversed. Such is, in all its details, the monument
which contains the ashes of Rousseau: and for the gratification of the inquisitive
reader, a correct representation is here introduced.

1 OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

During the period that tlie following sheets were in the press, some particulars of the
death of Rousseau were put into the hands of the editor of these pages, a gen-
tleman of the first respectability as a traveller, and which he has introduced in this
place. How far this may be consistent with propriety must be left to the decision of
the candid and impartial reader ; and, at the same time, he begs to observe, that an
anxious desire to interest and gratify the enquiring mind has been his only inducement.

" We descended by a path called le sentier de Rousseau," says this gentleman, " and
taking a circuit round the lake, returned by the other side of it to the village, to pro-
cure a guide to conduct us through the park ; the objects of curiosity in which, we had
been informed, were too numerous to be all discovered without such assistance, as well
as too deserving of attention to hazard the missing of any of them. We passed by the
chateau, which is the usual country residence of the Marquis de Girardin, to whom
Ermenonville belongs. It stands on a river, and its situation in the midst of water, was
all we observed remarkable in it. Two paviUions, as the French call them, standing in
a line, about thirty yards on each side from the body of the house, serve as wings to
it. In that on the right hand as we faced the house, died Rousseau. He had resided
there but a httle time before his death. We made several enquiries about his manner
of hving, and were informed that he got his meat from the market of Ermenonville ;
his table, as may be supposed, was modest and frugal, suited to the simplicity of his
taste, and mediocrity of his circumstances. He sometimes dined with the Marquis de
Girardin, but much less frequently than his noble patron would have wished. He had
conceived a fondness for his younger son ; he called him his little governor, and as he
brought him every day to walk with him, he used to shew great impatience, if the boy
delayed too long coming to him of a morning. He instructed him in the first princi-
ples of botany, and took pleasure in opening his mind to the beauties of nature. He
also gave lessons in music to Mademoiselle de Girardin, and this was to him a favourite
amusement. We enquired of our guide if he was ajfable, and if he conversed much
with the inhabitants of the village. He told us he did, particularly with those that were
poor, whom he delighted to assist by his instruction and advice. We made several
other enquiries, and the answers we received, tended all to confirm us in the opinion
■we already entertained of him. But as the last moments of life are those alone in
which the situation and sentiments of the human heart appear without disguise, and
constitute therefore the best criterion, by which the virtues of the man can be ascer-
tained; injustice to Rousseau's memory, I shall beg leave to subjoin the following ac-
count of his death, written by an eye-witness, with that air of candour and sincerity,
•which sufficiently warrants the truth of the circumstances related in it.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. li

" In the afternoon of Wednesday, July 1st, 1778, he (liomsean) toolc his u.^ual walk
with his little governor, as he called hiui ; the weather was very warm, and he several
times stopped and desired his little companion to rest himself (a circumstance not usual
with him) and complained, as the child afterwards related, of an attack of the cholic ;
which, however, was entirely removed when he returned to supper, so that his wife had
even no suspicion of his being out of order. The next day he arose at his usual hour,
went to contenlplate the rising sun in his morning walk, and returned to breakfast with
his wife.

" Sometime after, at the hour she generally went out about her family business, he
desired her to call and pay a smith that had done some work for him ; and charged her
particularly to make no deduction from his bill, as he appeared to be an honest man. His
wife had been out but a few minutes, when returning she found him sitting in a straw-
chair, and leaning with his elbow on a nest of drawers. What is the matter with you,
my dear, says she : do you find yourself ill ? I feel, replies he, a strange uneasiness and
oppression, besides a severe attack of the cholic. Madame Rousseau upon this, in or-
der to have assistance without alarming him, begged the porter's wife to go to the c/ia-
teau, and tell that her husband was taken ill. Madame de Girardin being the first
whom the news reached, hurried there instantly, and as that was with her a verj- un-
usual hour of visiting Rousseau, she, as a pretext for her coming, asked him and his
wife, whether they had not been disturbed in the night by the noise made in the village ?
"Ah ! madam," answered Rousseau, in a tone of voice that declared the feeling he had
of her condescension ; " I am perfectly sensible of your goodness, but you see I am ia
pain, and to have j^ou a witness of my sufferings, is an addition to them ; and both
your own delicate state of health, and the natural tenderness of your heart, unfit you
for the sight of other people's sufferings. You will do me a kindness, and yourself too,
madam, by retiring and leaving me alone with my wife for some time." She returned
therefore to the chuteau, to leave him at liberty to receive, without interruption, such
assistance as his cholic required, the only assistance in appearance, whicli he stood in
need of.

" As soon as he was alone with his wife, he desired her to sit down beside liim. Here
I am, my dear; how do you find yourself? The cholic tortures me sevej-ely, but I in-
treat you to open the window; let rae once more see the verdure that covers the face
of nature; how beautiful it is! My dear husband, what do you mean by saying so? It
has always been my prayer to God, replied he with the most perfect tranquillity, to die
without doctor or disease, and that you might close my eyes ; my praj-ers arc ou the

lii OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS,

point of being heard. If I have ever been the cause of any affliction to you ; if by
being united to me, you have met with any misfortune, that you would have otherwise
avoided, I intreat your pardon for it. Ah, it is my duty, cried she all in tears, it is my
duty and not yours, to ask forgiveness for all the trouble and uneasiness I have occa-
sioned to you! But what can you mean by talking in this manner? Listen to me, my
dear wife: I feel that lam dying, but I die in perfect tiaiiquillifi/ ; I never meant ill to
am/ one* and 1 have a light to reckon upon the mercy of God."

" My friends have promised me never to dispose without your consent, of the papers
1 have put into tlieir hands ; the Marquis de Girardin will liave the iiumanity to claim
the performance of their promise. Thank the marquis and his lady on my part ; I leave
you in their hands, and I have a sufficient reliance on their friendship, to carry along:
with me the satisfactorj' certainty, that they will be a father and mother to you. Tell
them I request their permission to be buried in their garden, and that I have no clioice
as to the particular spot. Give my souvenh- to my little governor, and my botany to-
Mademoiselle Girardin. Give the poor of the village something to pray for me, and,
let the honest couple whose marriage I had settled, have the present I intended to make
them. I charge you besides particularly, to have my body opened after my death, by
proper persons, and that an exact account of the appearances and dissection be commit-
ted to writing..

" In the mean time the pains lie felt encreased ; he complained of shooting pains m
the breast and head. His wife being no longer able to conceal her affliction, he forgot
his own sufferings to console her. What, said he, have I lost all. your affection al-
ready ; and do you lament my happiness, happiness never to have an end, and which,
it will not be in the power of men to alter or interrupt ? See how clear the heavens look,
(pointing to the sky, in a kind of transport that seemed to collect all the energy of his,
soul) there is not a single cloud ; don't you see that the gate of the blessed mansions is
open, and that God himself waits my approach ? At these words he fell foi'wards, drag-
ging his wife down along with him. Attempting to raise him, she finds him speechless
and without motion. Her cries bring all within hearing to her assistance; the body is-
takcn up and laid on the bed. At that moment I entered, and taking his hand, I found it

* Here the reader is left to pursue his own opinion of the character of a man whose doctrines
have made a considerable noise in the world ; and upon which many distinguished characters have-
been greatly divided. Let his principles have been what they may, his confession, at the awful mo-
ment of dissolution, it is earnestly to be hoped, flowed from a pure stream ; and that if he had lived,
ia error, he felt a thorough conviction of it before the moment of his death.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. liii

still a little warm, and even imagined his pulse beat ; the shortness of the time in which
the fatal event had taken place, the whole having passed in less than a quarter of an
hour, left me a ray of hope. I sent for the neighbouring surgeon, and dispatched a
person to Paris, for a physician, a friend of Rousseau's, charging him to come with-
out a moment's delay. I called for some alkali volatil Jluor, and made him smell to,
and swallow it repeatedly, all to no effect. The consummation so delightful to him,
and so fatal to us, was already completed, and if his example taught me how to die, it
could not teach me to bear his loss without regret."

PLATE 22.
Great Lake at Eimenoiiville. — P. 130.

The view before us presents to the eye a magnificent sheet of water; and affords a
fair specimen of the numerous lakes with which the fertile parts of the continent
abound.

The great advantages of water are justly appreciated by most men of landed pro-
perty ; and generally considered an indispensible by all those who possess extensive do-
mains. It vill be perceived, in the course of the work, that the author is a great ad-
vocate for this valuable acquisition.

PLATE 23.
Chateau de Mereville. — P. 145

Whilst the eye of the contemplative traveller is gratified with the appearance of
this elegant seat, the mind receives a sudden shock on enquiring the name of its former
possessor, whose untimely fate excites compassion in the breast of humanity.

Monsieur Le Bord, the king's banker, once possessed this mansion ; it is now occu-
pied by his widow, who is the only branch of this unhappy family which has survived
the dreadful ravages of the revolution. The chateau is situated on a rising ground, and
commands an extensive prospect over the adjacent country.

liv

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS

PLATE 24.

Chateau de Meieville, from the Top of the Pillar. — P. 146,

The point of view from whicli this drawing was taken, is in the garden at sonic
distance from tlie house, and gives a correct idea of the appearance of t he sur-
rounding scenery. The gardens are interspersed with numbers of lofty poplars, which
break in upon the scene, and produce an agreeable variety. The beauty of this subject
is considerably improved by the intersection of a serpentine rivulet which runs through
the garden.

PLATE 25.

The Bridge at Blois.—V. 165.

This plate presents to the eye a faithful representation of the ancient city of Blois;
■which suffered considerably during the late revolution. At different periods of the
year the river runs above the surface of its banks, and overflows the foreground as de-
scribed in the drawing.

The road on the left hand leads to Chambord, the celebrated residence of Francis
the First, which joins to the forest of that name.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. Iv

VIGNETTES.

On account of there not being sufficient room for the introduction of the zchole of the fol-
lowing Vignettes in their proper places, zvithout interrupting the narrative, it was thought
proper to place them at the end of the nearest letter to zehich they allude. The pages are
here given where they may be found, also the reference (if necessary) where each particular
subject applies : —

Wolf-Hunting, p. 39- — Horn used in the field in the reign of Henry IV. It is made

of ivory, curiously wrought, inlaid with silver; and is classed among the sporting-
implements in the Library at Thornville Royal.

Page 19. — Jack-boot, from a drawing made in Paris, by Mr. Bryant. Described
in p. 18.

27. — Un Sabot; or wooden shoe; worn by the people of Dieppe, where the draw-
ing was taken. See p. l6.

41. — Uti Chapeau, in p. 15. This is a correct portrait, taken at the same time

with the above.

53. — From the top of a building in the botanical garden, p. 51.

6l. — Fountain in the gardens at St. Germain, p. 58.

73. — Ruins of an ancient castle in the environs of Paris.

97. — Scene on coming out of Fontainbleau.

105. — Cabin du Berger; or travelling-carriage, used by the shepherds in various^

parts of the continent.

128. — Scene in the garden at Versailles.

138. — Pagoda at Mereville.

OBSERVATIONS

ON

THE EMBELLISHMENTS TO VOLUME IL

Vignette. — Partridge Shooting,

PLATE 1.

Part of Tours, coming in from Vendome. — P. 8.

In the fore-ground, appears the cathedral of Tours, on the left ; and on the right
stands part of the city of that name, the capital of the Touraine. It is bounded on the
near side by the Loire.

PLATE 2.

Village and Castle of Mont-Bazon. — P. 12.

This place was formerly of some consequence, when its prince resided there ; at pre-
sent it contains but few inhabitants. The last occupier of this castle was the Prince of
Montbazon, who was in the carriage with Henry IV. when he was stabbed by Ra-
villac.

PLATE 3.

Horses drinking, from a Picture of Paul Potter, in the Louvre, zcith a distant J lew cf

Tours.— F. 22.

In the scene before us appears a correct view of Tours, taken at a distance, as de-
scribed in p. 22. At the foot of the hill runs the Loire, which takes its course through
the city of Tours, till lost in the distance among the surrounding woods.

VOL. I. H

iviii OESHRVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

On returning to Paris after taking this view ; the artist, on visiting the Louvre, was
struck with the natural beauty and simphcity of the celebrated painter, Paul Potter, from
which ho copied the horses drinking, and introduced them in the foreground of the
present view, in order to fill up the vacancy, and complete his picture.

PLATE 4.

Viezij on the Side of the Loire. — P. 24.

The banks of the Loire abound with the most charming and picturesque scenery.
The present view delineates the country between Tours and Amboise. In the distance
appears the cathedral of Tours, frojn whence to Amboise is a delightful ride along
the margin of the river.

About the time this view was taken, a dreadful accident happened on the spot : — A
tilted-cart, in which were seated two women and a child, passing along, through the
carelessness of the driver, went too near the edge of the banks, and was precipitated
into the river. Dreadful to relate, the child was unfortunately drowned ; the females
were saved by clinging to the cart, from which the horse had disentangled himself, and
struggling in the water for some time, with difficulty reached the opposite shore in,
safety.

PLATE 5.

Chanteloup, the Seat of the Duke de Choisseul. — P. 26.

This drawing forms one of the most magnificent subjects taken by Mr. Bryant during
the CQurse of the tour. The general effect of this elegant building was much injured by
an enormous pile erected behind one of its wings for a temporary accommodation ; this,
it was thought proper to omit in the representation. At each end of the centre build-
ing are placed two bas-reliefs, representing the seasons, beneath which are four beauti-
ful antique statues much mutilated. The square buildings by which the pillars are ter-
minated have similar ornaments. This magnificent edifice, the whole front of wliich is
composed of stone, did not escape the ravaging hand of the late revolution.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMJ-N IS. lix

PLATE C.

Chateau of M. Le Merciei; near Bfois. — P. 34.

This building, lii<e many others of a similar nature, in that part of the country where
it is situated, is built of stone. Of the gardens we can say but little, having neither ele-
gance, beauty, nor novelty to recommend them. The faithful regard, however, which
has been paid by the artist to the original, certainly entitles it to notice ; by which some
idea may be formed of the manner of laying out estates in France.

PLATE 7.

Lake near Ckevernei/. — P. 38.

This scene was taken on the Cheverney estate. Here the united beauties of an inte-
resting landscape are seen at one view. This spot abounds in fertility, and affords a
fair sample of the advantages derived by the introduction of water into laudscape-
sceneiy. These lakes abound with fine fish.

PLATE 8.

In the Forest of Fontainbleau. — P. 43.
This sketch was hastily taken in the evening ; yet it gives a just idea of the coimtry.
In the distance, on the right, is seen Fontainbleau.

PLATE 9.

Specimen of Cattle taken near Fontainhleau. — P. 50.

At the period of time at which this drawing was taken, the light was much in
favor of the artist ; as the objects appeared in a striking point of view, so as to enable
him to form a bold and correct Indian-ink sketch of the portaits here represented.

H 2

IX OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBFXLISHMENTS.

In the distance appears the true charater of a cahhi du berger, or shepherd's cabin,
used in various parts of France by those who have the care of flocks. In these vehicles,
they sleep, and frequently travel to a considerable distance.

PLATE 10.

Vine from the Bois du Boulogne. — P. 6l.

The Bois du Boulogne, formerly called the Bois de St. Cloud, and afterwards the
Bois de Rouvrey, bears its name from a little village in that neighbourhood, being a
kind of wood or forest, beautifully situated, is much frequented by the Parisians, as a
place of amusement ; and has been the scene of many a fatal duel. From Paris you
arrive at this place by the road of Passy, and Neuilly. Here are coffee-houses, tea-
gardens, and other places of public resort in abundance, the principal of which is
Madrid and Bagatelle.

The former of these places was built by Francis I. and the latter, from the design of
Mons. Belanger, who accompanied the author to Eremonville. The pavilion is re-
markable for its elegance : the house is small, but very commodious, and beautifully or*
namented. The great saloon is in the Italian style. The cupola is a very fine elevation-.
Indeed, the whole forms a fine coup d'ail.

PLATE 11.

Chateau Thiery, on the Road to Trois Fontaine. — P. 86.

This view forms a pleasing scene : the river Marne conspicuously appears; above-
which rises the chateau of the famous Due de Guise.

PLATE 12.
Chateau de Jaegersbourg. — P. 102..

This scene presents to the eye of the traveller the remains of a once sumptuous pa-
lace, formerly belonging to the Due de Deuxponts. How far the general aspect of this

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. Ixi

building was entitled to admiration when in its former slate, the reader may, perhaps, be
enabled to form some estimate from what now appears ; but as to the traditionary obser-
vations (p. 102) respecting the reverence due to it, or to its former illustrious occupier,
we consider quite incompatible with common sense.

PLATE 13.

On the Road to Trois Fontaine. — P. 126.

This view affords an additional specimen of the face of the country towards the Ger-
man dominions. From this spot the surrounding scenery appears to great advantage.
Here it was that Mr. Lucas (a French artist, of considerable eminence, who also accom-
panied the travellers) lost his book of sketches, which was afterwards recovered by
©ur author.

PLATE 14.
Environs of Beaulieu. — P. iQ,S.
A RICH display of niral scenery is here seen: bounded on every side by charming
landscapes, and the rising ground naturally improves the beauty of the country.

PLATE 15.
The Horns, from an original French Air, adapted to the Piano-Forte. — P. 130.
Foe the convenience of playing the above, the two pages should be placed, so as to
fe.ce each other ; that when the book is opened, the whole may appear at one view.

PLATE 16.
Convent du Trois Fontaine. — P. 134.

This view presents a correct representation of the once celebrated convent of the-
Three Fountains ; which with the accompanied description of the entrance, display at
once the remains of a magnificent pile, partaking equally of much grandeur and sim-
plicity.

Ixii ■ OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

PLATE 17.

Jack-Boots seen in the Forest of Trots Fontaine. — P. 140.

In this subject the true character of the jack-boot is very correctly detailed. In the
course of a sporting excursion in the forest of the Three Fountains, these appen-
dages of travelling in France were seen. LTpon a moderate calculation, they were
considered to be little short of OOlbs. weight, which, on account of their ludicrous ap-
pearance and enormous size, induced the artist to make a sketch from them.

PLATE; 18.

View of the Cliateau at Cftantilli/. — P. 157.

This subject affords a specimen of the disposition of the various buildings of which
the establishment at Chantilly were composed. The gardens, it was generally admitted,
far surpassed every other in France.

PLATE 19.

Entrance of the Chateau at Chantilly. — P. I65.

This view of the palace of Chantilly cannot fail to strike the eye, on its first appear-
ance. The magnificence and splendor of this estate was once without a parallel ; no one
can form so just an idea of the astonishing change in the aspect of the spot altogether as
the traveller who had an opportunity of witnessing it in its former state.

PLATE 20.
Water-Carrier — Wood-Cutter — Flour-Porter — Fish-Woman. — P. 179-
Th ese characters are actually taken from life, and with the accompanying scenery
exhibit a correct specimen of the Parisian costume, which ^is more fully described yi
the page above referred to.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS. boii

PLATE 21.

Market of La Halle, in Paris. — P. 181.

In this view the Fontaine des Innocens form the principal object. It is a beautiful
morfeau built by Pierre L'Escot de Clugny ; although an ancient style of buildino- is
nevertheless admirable for the beauty of its proportions. Nothing can be more graceful
and appropriate than tlie Naiads in bas-reUef, which were executed by Jean Gougeon.
On this column is written — " Fontium Nymphis;" also the following beautiful lineaof
Santeuil : —

Quos duro cernis simulatus marmore fluctus,
Hujus Nympha loci credidat esse suos.

PLATE 22.
Itinerant Musicians. — Shoe-Black. — Blanchoises. — Chesnuts. — P. 183.

PLATE 23.

Ptisan. — Stocking-mender. — Grapes. — Porter. — P. 184.

These, as well as the foregoing, add to the number of characters of the lower order,
of persons, in Paris, which exhibit the costume of the city, and are depicted with a
faithful pencil.

PLATE 24.

Female Characters. — P. 191.

Taken from life, and are thus particularized :

1. Peasant's wife at Dieppe. — The peasants throughout France, particularly in Nor-
mandy, are remarkable for their cleanliness, yet their houses but ill correspond with,
their persons.

Ixiv OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

2. Fannei's daughter at Dieppe. — This figure affords a back view of the remarkable
<;ap mentioned in P. 15, Vol. I. — In Fig. 7, also, is given a side view of the same kind
of cap.

3. Woman in the market-place at Orleans.

4. Daughter of an inn-keeper at Dieppe.

5. Sketch of a young lady at the Comedy at Rouen ; — head a la Grec.

6. Wife of an aiibergiste at Rouen. — The ear-rings of silver; hair plaited behind;
characteristics of that part of the country.

7. Servant of an ivory-turner at Dieppe.

8. Market-woman at Vernon.

9. Peasant's wife at Louviers. — This character was drawn on a fair day.

PLATE 25.

Male Characters.— v. 192.

•1. Water-carrier at Dieppe.

2. French dragoon. — The helmets worn by these men are made of polished steel,
partly covered with the skin of an animal, and from the hinder part is suspended a
horse's tail ; it is by the different colours of these tails that the repective regiments are
distinguished. The helmet is fastened under the chin by a piece of brass or polished
steel, of which their cuirasses are also made. It is hardly possible to describe the bril-
liant effect produced by one of these regiments in motion, when opposed to the sun ;
having all the appearance of an immense sheet of glistening steel.

These regiments are generally composed of stout, athletic men, of high stature.

3. Subaltern officer at Rouen. — The cockade is composed of a tri-coloured silk rib-
band ; but among the lower order, they are made of cotton ; the colours are white, red,
and blue. White indicates law; red, the luition; blue, the king. The violent repub-
licans put out the blue, and wear red and white only.

4. Portrait of a Frenchman at the opera at Paris, taken in the parterre.

5. Parisian mechanic.

6. Postilion, taken on the road from Orleans.

7. Sans Culotte — a cap of red woollen^ and national cockade. "

OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS, Ixv

Characters taken on the Boulevards. — P. 198. — Described in P. IQl.

These grotesque figures attracted the attention of the artist when walking on the
Boulevards ; and will serve to shew the striking contrast between the costume of the last
and present century.

PLATE 26.

Libran/ at Thornville, Hawk-Houses, and Temple of Tictory.

It is deemed unnecessary in this place to enter into a descriptive account of these
plates, which appear in the concluding part of the second volume, where they are par-
ticularly noticed.

Ixvi OBSERVATIONS ON THE EMBELLISHMENTS.

VIGNETTES TO VOLUME THE. SECOND.

Fieze of the old Church at Bhis.—V. 28.

Water-fowl, p. 80.

Ditto, p. 92.

Hen and Chickens, p. 105.

French Hound, p. 114.

Monastic Ruin, p. 127.

Seat in the Gardens at Ermenonville, p. 152.

The Kound-Table, or Hunter's Rendezvous, p. 173. Described in p. 170.

Fish-stall in the INIarkct La Halle, in Paris, end of Contents to Vol. 2.

Many of these stalls, instead of being covered in from the weather, in a manner simi-
lar to those in the English markets, are sheltered by a kind of umbrella, which is made
portable, and removed at pleasure.

Entrance intended for Thornville Royal. See the end of the volume.

TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER I.

Departure from Thornville Royal. — Burleigh.' — Arrixal in London. —
Passport. — Pitt Place. — Description of the Country in the Vicinity of
Brighton. — Observations on the Beagle. — Brighton — Prince of JValess Pa-
>t}ilion — Assembly Rooms — Public Libraries — Hot and Cold Baths — TVheat-
ears. — Embarkation for Dieppe. — The State Cabin of a Packet-Boat. —
Shooting Wild-Fowl. — Trial of a Gun of a singular Construction. — Etior-
mous Oysters and Fish called Toads. — Politeness of a Swedish Captain. —
Striking Similarity between the Coasts of Brighton and Dieppe. — Debarka-
tion.— Honours paid to Col. T by the Soldiers and Seamen. — Harbour

of Dieppe — Pier — Quays — Description of the Town and its Environs — In-
habitants— Cauchoises. — Diversity of Mariners between the French and
English. — French Carriages and Horses. — Tree of Liberty. — Interview
with the Prefect.

MY LORD, Dieppe, June 10, 1802.

A OURS ELF and numerous fi-iends have frequently asserted, that
Thornville Royal, both with respect to the beauty of its scenery and the
variety of its sports, is scarcely to be equalled : but as I am not so de-
cidedly prejudiced, I have formed the resolution of visiting a neigh-
bouring country, whence I shall send you a faithful account of my va-
rious excursions, blended with observations on such subjects as may pro-
mise to yield you any amusement. The sports of the field will, of
course, demand my particular attention, and I shall embrace every op-

VOL. I. B

2 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

portunity of drawing a comparison between those of France and Eng
land, yet carefiilly avoiding all invidious reflections, considering myself
merely as a citizen of the world, and consequently divested of national
prejudice, and undue partiality. It has, indeed, been my uniform wish
to enjoy myself through life ; and as the race of man is but of short du-
ration, I am still solicitous to skim the cream of existence, and leave
the blue milk for such as may happen to prefer it.

Having previously made every necessary arrangement, I bade adieu
to Thornville on Monday morning, and set out on my intended journey

to the Continent. After passing Stamford, Mrs. T requested me

to show her Burleigh, the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Exeter.
The entrance, though in an unfinished state, appeared grand and cor-
respondent, and an attentive survey convinced us, that Burleigh, as a
Gothic building, cannot easily be surpassed. The Duchess of Hamil-
ton, with whom I spent many pleasant days at Hamilton, was then in
London. But at Burleigh, as elsewhere, her taste in every thing is
universally allowed.

After a pleasant journey I arrived in London, and flattered myself
I should meet with no impediment in my departure for the coast ; but,
as the beings of this earth are constantly subject to disappointments, I
found that my coach-maker, who had positively promised to have every
thing in readiness, had only completed my travelling carriage,* and
that I should consequently be under the necessity of commencing my
journey without my boat-carriage, which was to me a source of infinite
vexation.

* This was very complete indeed. The conveniences for the dogs, were sufficiently capacious to
contain six or eight couple, of different sizes : they were on springs, and equally useful if applied to
trunks. An addition was, however, made, of which notice will be taken hereafter.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. » 3

Having waited on Monsieur Otto, I received a pass, couched in the
most flattering terms, and addressed to the prefects of Calais, Bou-
logne, and Dieppe. The kind expressions made use of in this pass
were occasioned by a correspondence I formerly had with some of his
Majesty's ministers, wherein they thought proper to condemn the marked
a;ttention I paid to Mess. Moneron and Senovert, two French commis-
sioners.— That correspondence, however, and another in which I was
engaged with his Royal Highness the Duke of York, and other distin-
guished personages, will fully and more properly appear in the memoire
of my life, at this time arranging for the press.

We now set out from London, our party consisting of myself, Mrs.
T , and Mr. Bryant, as secretary and draftsman ; two valets, game-
keeper and huntsman. We first rested at the beautiful residence, Pitt-
Place, Epsom, the seat of Mr. Jeudwine, well known for his hospi-
tality, which we felt most forcibly. The dinner, wines, and desert were

of superior quality ; and Mrs. T (being an amateur) was particularly

pleased with the choice collection of paintings.

We slept the first night at Horsham, and rose early the ensuing
day. In the course of our morning's ride we passed a very handsome
park, but nothing material occurred. The country was, for the most
part, sylvan and irriguous, apparently well adapted for pheasants and
woodcocks. A gentle ascent of the road brought us to the pass of the
Devil's Ditch, and we, shortly after, gained a distant view of Brighton,
the circumjacent country appearing remarkably naked, and bounded by
a shipless sea.

The entrance into the town did not by any means correspond with
my expectations. A total want of* woody scener}^ fatigued the eye,
which had to rove over a barren waste of extended down, rendered still

B 2

4 ' SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

more dreary by the recent aridity of the weather, which had withered
up all appearance of verdure. —

" Far as the eye could reach, no tree was seen,
Earth clad in russet scorn'd the lively green."

In short, there was nothing to rivet the attention — nothing to diver-
sify this dull monotony, so ill-calculated to please, and which continually
presented itself These downs, however, are much admired, for the
fine opportunity they afford the visitants of Brighton for equestrian ex-
ercises ; as the rider is here enabled to pursue his pleasures, even after
the heaviest rains, with ease and satisfaction.

Entering one of the narrow streets of Brighton, the carriage had nearlj'"
sustained a very serious injury, by coming in close contact with a post ;
but I fortunately stopped the postillions in time to prevent the threatened
disaster. The mechanical appearance of my carriage seemed to excite
universal admiration; but it was the opinion of the spectators that it
would fail in the French roads.

You are perfectly acquainted with my partiality for every thing refer-
ring to the chace, and that predilection naturally led me to inspect the
Prince of Wales's dog-kennels, but more particularly his dwarf-beagles,
which were originally of the same breed as my own.

Here I must observe, that the beagle, in point of height, should be
regulated by the country he is to hunt in ; but he ought, at any rate, to
be very slow. In a dry country, free from walls, the beagle cannot be
too low ; but where there are such impediments, he should be larger, to
prevent being stopped by fences ; as also when the waters are out, he is
the better calculated for swimming. In the country where my pack hunt,
the turf is like velvet, a ©irc'Cimstance much in their favour. The prince's

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 5

beagles are of a much larger growth than mine, and mixed; but it is a rule
with me in the breed of all animals to get the most stuff in the least room^
in consequence of which I naturally give the preference to my own pack.
Another circumstance tending to strengthen my opinion is, that the lower
they are, their noses must be closer, and their scent necessarily stronger;
but in point of speed, they all go too fast. I have seen several valuable
horses distressed, and some very high-bred ones killed, in following these
insignificant-looking animals. Many gentlemen, unacquainted with the
powers of the beagle, have imagined they could overtake them on a
poney; but the speed of these hounds is regulated by the head they
carry when they sheet well. Horses are much more distressed in an
opeUi hilly country, .where nothing intei-venes to impede the hounds,
than they are in an enclosed one, as every fence, more or less, impedes
the velocity of the hound. Fox-hounds, indeed, fly the fences, but then
the game, turning up one fence, and down another, obliges the hounds
to cast back ; apd the frequency of these casts afford a decided advantage
in favour of the game, as well as ease to the horses ; but when a burst
is made, and there is no impediment on the plain, both game, hounds,
and horses are done up together.

But to resume my narrative. — -Returning to our hotel, which com-
manded a fine prospect of the sea, I agreed with a captain, on pretty
moderate terms, for our passage to Dieppe, as well as for the convey-
ance of my carriage and dogs. He engaged to reserve the state-cabin
for myself and suite, and assured me that in twelve hours, at farthest,
we should reach the Gallic shore. I then ordered dinner, and whilst
it was preparing, strolled about the town.

It was not my intention to have attempted a description of Brighton,
but being so much the resort of the fashionable world, I shall indulge

6 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

myself in a few remarks on this place, which has gradually risen from
an obscure fishing-town to its present celebrity and importance.

Brighthelmstone, now called Brighton, on the coast of Sussex, stands
on an elevated situation, gently declining towards the Steine, which is
the fashionable promenade of the company who make it their summer,
or, more strictly speaking, their autumnal resort. The air is remarkably
pure and salubrious, and the town is effectually sheltered from the rude
blasts of the north and east winds, by a range of hills, sloping from the
downs toward the sea, and (except in very dry seasons) covered with
an agreeable verdure.

It is of little consequence what situation the Prince of Wales selects
for his residence ; elegance and fashion being his invariable attendants.
The Pavilion which liis Royal Highness has built and rebuilt at Brighton,
contributes to the fascination of that watering-place, which is so fre-
quently honoured with the presence of its royal visitor.

This pavilion is situated on the Steine, and has been built about
twenty years. It has a very handsome facade towards the sea, two
hundred feet in length, in the centre of which is a circular building,
with a lofty dome, supported by pillars. The addition of two wings
since its erection has given a more interesting appearance to the edifice,
and has considerably augmented the internal accommodations. The
interior of the Pavilion is characteristic of the taste of its illustrious
owner, utility and elegance being happily blended. Perhaps the only
appendage necessary to render it a complete sejour would be a sur-
rounding plantation: this has, indeed, been already attempted, but
there is no prospect of its amving at any degree of excellence, as the
air is so strongly impregnated with salt as to check every species of lux-
uriant vegetation.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRAN'CE. 7

There are two assembly-rooms in the town, which are alternately
opened for the amusement of dancing, Avith adjoining card, and tea-
saloons. But the most rational amusements of Brighton consist in the
public libraries, of which there are several on the Steine, and on what
is called the Marine Parade; and these are regularly supplied with
newspapers and new publications, from the metropolis.

It is an indisputable fact, that all things in the course of time are sub-
ject to mutation, and even the Steine, which is now the promenade of
fashion and beautj^ Avas originally nothing more than a place set apart
for the poor fishermen to dry their nets. Contiguous to this resort of ele-
gance are the hot and cold baths, for the accommodation of invalids ;
nor must I dismiss this part of my letter without observing, that the
adjacent downs abound with those delicious birds called wheat-ears, wliich
the shepherds catch by the simple contrivance of a horse-hair noose
placed in a little excavation. — You may probably deem this account of
Brighton very unsatisfactory ; but as my projected tour is in France, I
shall here close the description of the place of embarkation, and hasten
to relate the manner of our conveyance to the territories of the re-
public.

The custom-house officers treated us with great ciAdlity: indeed there
was little cause of apprehension on that score, as, with the exception of
a trifling quantity of gunpowder, we had no contraband-goods in our
possession.

Having repaired on board at rather an earlier hour than any of the
other passengers, I proceeded to take possession of the state-chamber,
which, although bad enough, appeared more convenient than the others.
I then persuaded Mrs. T to follow my example in feigning a sud-
den indisposition, and we retired to our cot. Tranquillity, however, is

8 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

by no means the inhabitant of a packet-boat ; for in a little time the
arrival of a second boat-full of passengers put a complete termination to
our repose. The state-cabin had been promised to a gentleman and his
wife, and the former strenuously insisted on what he, perhaps, consi-
dered as his right ; but our possession, being eleven points of the law,
was an insuperable bar to all his remonstrances. I endeavoured to com-
fort him, however, b)'^ assuring him, that although we had all been com-
pletely duped with respect to the promised accommodations, a few
hours would put an end to these trifling difficulties. These observations
had the desired effect, and mutual good-humour soon made us satisfied

with each other.

But with respect to the state-chamber which was, at first, our bone of
contention. — Figure to j^ourself a cabin five feet six inches high, and
utterly destitute of light, except what was admitted through a small
glass-door, and you will have a tolerable idea of this enviable place,
which had probably been promised a dozen times over. However the
sketch taken by Mr. Bryant (whom I had engaged to delineate such
views as appeared most worthy of his pencil), will illustrate this subject
much better than any literary description.

. Our fellow-passengers consisted of about twenty-four persons, ladies
and gentlemen ; and as several of them appeared equally well-bred,
and convivial, we soon became perfectly sociable, and flattered our-
selves with the expectation of a very agreeable voyage.

We had not proceeded far when we found ourselves becalmed, and,
shortly after, the cannon of the forts announced the commemoration of
His Majesty's birth-day. The weather was peculiarly fine, and our al-
most stationary situation afforded me an opportunity of shooting several
wild-fowl.

1

oT

'^

^

^

\

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 9

After indulging for some time in this diversion, I determined, as it
was perfectly calm, to try a gun I had not used, the following account
of which you may not, perhaps, consider uninteresting : —

Joseph Manton, the gun-smith, was of opinion, that he could make
a double-rifle gun sufficiently stout to carry seven balls each barrel, and
that they would do more execution than one of my seven-barrelled
guns, which were only stout enough to carry three balls each, i. e. twent}'-
one from the seven barrels. This piece carried very small balls, about
the size of what is called buck-shot.

Great pains were taken in hammering the barrel of the new gun, and
when it was finished, I went to witness its execution, and resigned to
Manton the honour of making the first experiment, which was to take
place in a narrow passage adjoining his shop. He loaded the piece with
the utmost exactness, and, by his appearance, he would cheerfully ha^'e
relinquished the honour to me; but I thought it no more than justice
that the inventor should be first gratified. Accordingly he placed
himself, and took exact aim; but the subsequent concussion was so
great, and so very different from the firing of any other gun, that I
thought the whole shop was blown up, and fully expected, when the
smoke dispersed, to find that the piece had burst. This, however, was
not the case : it appeared that the whole force of the powder, being in-
sufficient to drive the balls, had come out through the touch-holes, and,
what was very extraordinary, the gun was uninjured.

This circumstance affording an indisputable proof of the excellencj'^ of
the metal, and the firmness of the touch-holes, we took out the breech,
and then gently forced the balls, which had only moved six inches. It
was now, therefore, sufficiently obvious, that to use this in competition
with a seven-barrelled gun was quite out of the question.

VOL. I. C

10 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

I afterwards took an opportunity of trjang my piece among some
deer, but it shot so very ill that it was entirely useless. As the above-
mentioned experiment had given such ample proof of the excel-
lency of the metal, I determined to have it bored out as a shot-gun. I
resolved to have the best borer that could be engaged, and as I had seen
guns made by Fisher, of Greek Street, shoot so as to surpass all others,
and almost the belief of even the number of sportsmen that were present
when I was president of the Chalk- Farm Shooting Society, I thought
I could not give it into better hands.

It had stood proof after boring, and had shot very well at a mark.
Now was the time, therefore, to try at what distance it could do execu-
tion.— As the gun, with respect to its neatness, appeared a mere bauble,
several sportsmen who happened to be aboard the vessel, seemed in-
clined to doubt its utility, except with small shot at snipes or woodcocks.
But in the present instance it was to be tried with No. 2 shot, at water-
fowl. I killed the first bird, a large gull, which fell at about fifty
yards distance, with which we were all well pleased Seventeen subse-
quent shots took effect at very great distances, one of which was sup-
posed to have been upwards of an hundred yards. I then cleaned the
piece and packed it up. Of the safety and execution of guns I shall
speak in a future communication.

Some of the crew having, in the mean time, taken a quantity of fish,
they were prepared for dinner. Among the most remarkable were some
enormous oysters, and a curious species of fish called toads; but even
these were so delicious, that if the frogs of France prove equally good,
I shall easily get the better of an old prejudice.

In the evening we perceived the light of a large ship, which proved to
be a Swede, commanded by Captain Ankar, who no sooner heard that

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 11

our female passengers were indisposed, than he poUtely sent us several
bottles of Madeira, a quantity of fine oranges, a basket of almonds,
raisins, &c. One of our gentlemen, who went on board upon this occa-
sion, happened to mention my name; in consequence of which the cap-
tain observ^ed, that his relative. Baron Ankar, had frequently spoken of
the festive days he had formerly spent at Thomville Royal, and that
nothing could be more gratifying to his feelings than the opportu-
nity which now presented itself of rendering me any acceptable senice.
Understanding that Mrs. T. was indisposed, his generosity was unbounded.
The captain was also very liberal in dispensing liis presents to many other
passengers.

We passed the night more pleasantly than might have been expected;
and a light breeze springing up in the morning, we very soon made
Dieppe. The coast is the counterpart of that of Brighton, and this
striking correspondence certainly adds weight to the conjecture, that the
separation betAveen our island and the continent owes its origin to some
great convulsion of nature, although the era of that event is now totally
hidden from our view by the impenetrable clouds of uncertainty. Of
this, however, I am fully persuaded from the appearance of both coasts,
that were it possible to bring them together they would perfectlj^ tally.

Among the crowd assembled to see us disembark were some artificers
from Ripon, in Yorkshire, which is not far fi-om Thornville Royal,
These men immediately recognized me, and hastened to inform their
French companions of my family, and the unprecedented respect I had
received from the soldiers under my command, whilst I was Lieutenant-
Colonel of the York* militia. This intelligence Avas no sooner com-

* The editor of these letters cannot omit this opportunity of recording the very honourable cir-
cumstance of Colonel Thornton's father having been the first projector of the English militia.
During the time that he was a member of the House of Commons, he repeatedly endeavoured to

c 2

12 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE,

municated to the soldiers and sailors, than they seemed to vie with each
other in testifying their respect and civility, nor could my repeated

bring in a bill for its permanent establishment, which was &S frequently rejected. At length, how-
ever, he convinced the House of its absolute necessity, and the bill, in consequence, passed. To
tliat gentleman's strenuous endeavours, therefore, is the nation indebted for this grand, constitu-
tional, military defence, now grown into such consequence as to excite the admiration of all Eu-
rope. The West- York militia was the first corps of this nature established in England, and the
father of the militia, as he may be justly styled, was appointed to the command of that regiment,
which he not only raised according to the Act of Parliament, but also led it against the rebels in
Scotland, during a most inclement winter; on which occasion the conduct of that corps amply
justified those arguments which had been adopted to forward its establishment.

Jn this place it may be necessary to observe, that few novel institutions, hovi'ever evident their
merit, utility, or importance, are received without some instances of popular disapprobation. —
Such Tvas, and still is the case of the militia, among those, who, regardless of public good, ap-
prove of nothing that in the least interferes with their private interest or convenience. — JManj', like-
wise, of the men, who composed the first allotment, being obliged to leave their homes and their
families, execrated the occasion that subjected them to that necessity, and assembled at the ren-
dezvous with a reluctance which might have rendered a dependance on their services extremely pre-
carious. But the liberality and natural urbanity of their commander almost instantly removed
their prejudices; and the paternal attention he paid, as well to their accommodation and the supply
of their wants, as to their instruction and improvement in military discipline; soon reconciled
them to their new occupation ; and enabled him in a short time to evince, that mildness is at least
as efficacious in the formation of soldiers, as severity ; and the affection of love as powerful an in-
centive, both to their moral and professional excellence, as that of fear. For, though the sol-
diers of the York regiment were treated by their commander as children, and he honoured and re-
garded by them as a father ; they were neither excelled in discipline, orderly behaviour, nor mili-
tary appearance, by any regiment in his Majesty's service; and, when called upon to act in their
constitutional capacity, performed their duty with the steadiness and alacrity of veterans.

His preferring (in so critical a case) the application of lenient and conciliatory means, to mea-
sures of severity, and his silencing their murmurs by correcung the prejudices that occasioned
them, were alike honourable to his feelings and his understanding ; and, if his conduct on that oc-
casion be appreciated by its immediate and consequent cflects, it will not be reckoned among the least
of his public services. For, as the first mover of the militia bill, and Colonel of the first emhodied
regiment on that establishment, the eyes of all who had embarked in the same service (as if they
waited the event of his proceedings), were fixed upon him. The success of his efforts, being mani-
fested by the zeal and cordiality with which every man of the West York regiment adopted his sen-
timents, promoted his purpose, and (as if actuated by inspiration) entered into the spirit of the in-
stitution ; — other regiments were embodied;— the emulation which never fails to animate the breasts
of Englishmen, in objects which so evidently conduce to the good and safety of their country, was
naturally excited ; and the militia of England ranked among the first military establishments of
Europe.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 13

remonstrances make them forego the determination they had formed of
drawing my carriage from the Pier. This circumstance was imme-
diately spread through the town, and the attentions we experienced in
consequence of it, were flattering beyond description.

The custom-house officers gave us very httle trouble; and many of
the inn-keepers attended at our landing, each speaking highly in com-
mendation of his own house. We at first put up at an inn where some
of our fellow-passengers had engaged to dine, but the accommodations
were so execrable that Ave soon quitted it in disgust, and removed to the
hotel of the packet-boats.

Here I must beg leave to observe, that any Englishman, desirous of
rendering himself comfortable at an inn in Dieppe, must endeavour to

It may, likewise, with justice be asserted, that the institution of a national militia Las
been the generative and efficient cause of that military and patriotic ardour from which the numerous
corps of all descriptions have arisen ; and whose services have so materially contributed, as well to
the security of the nation against foreign invaders, as to the preservation of its domestic tranquillity,
by over-awing the seditious disturbers of the public peace. For the free communication and
cordial intercourse it opened between counties widely distant from each other, the high, and just
sense of its services, with which the public mind has been long impressed — and the participation in
its duties, to which every member of the community (not otherwise employed in the service of the
public) is bound ; have gradually caused a general acquaintance with military affairs, reconciled all
ranks of men to the military garb and discipline, and influenced even children to throw away the
usual instruments of their amusement, and, like their fathers, to assume the sword and firelock.

Among the benefits derived from the institution of a national militia, also, the jealousy of
the people has been obliterated, which influenced the measures of former times; and convinced the
present rulers of the land, that, as long as self-interest and preservation is an actuating principle of
the human mind, the People must be the best and most assured defenders of their King and Coun-
try. The unity of their interests, in a constitutional view, is too obvious to need elucidation : and,
while the experience and events of the present era are remembered, no future minister can hesitate
to rest the safety of the kingdom, and the security of its Sovereign, on the spirit, the fidelity, and
affection of the people.

Colonel Thornton, the author of the letters now submitted to the public, had, in his youth,
a commission in the before-mentioned regiment under the eye of bis father. Upon the demise of his
worthy parent, the Lieutenant-Colonelcy was sent him by his ever revered friend the late Marquis of
Rockingham ; but after a series of years be retired in disgust, from what cause will be seen in the

14 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

obliterate from his mind all idea of comparison between French and
English accommodations. In the hotel, however, where we had now
fixed ourselves, we enjoyed the luxury of wooden floors — a circumstance
not usually met with in French houses. Here, also, we had the good for-
tune to meet my worthy friend the Hon. Admiral Thomas Sliirley, who
withother gentlemen, our cotnpagnes de voyage, consented to dine with
us. We had an exceeding good repast, and some excellent Champaign
at three livres per bottle, after which we walked out to view the town.

The entrance into the harbour of Dieppe is beautiful, and well calcu-^
lated for the purposes to which it has been applied during the war with
Great Britain. The vast number of small privateers here fitted out,
have pro^^ed a great annoyance to the trade of the English Channel,
and on this account the English and Dutch fleets united, in a former war,
for the purpose of demolishing the port.

The pier, during the convulsions produced by the revolution, has been
almost entirely neglected, and the channel is so obstructed with sand
and gravel, that e^en the possibility of its being again cleared is ex-
tremely doubtful.

The quays are very commodious, and every liberal mind must feel a
sensation of pleasure while contemplating the general hurry and bustle
which has, at length, succeeded the solemn stillness that reigned
throughout the custom-house and docks, whilst the public attention was
principally engrossed by the vicissitudes of war.

The town of Dieppe, though planned in a style far superior to the

account of his life before-mentioned, although the soldiers under his command exhibited the most
unequivocal proofs of ttieir gratitude and respect, by presenting him with an elegant medallion, a
magnificent service of plate, and a beautiful sword, as testimonials of the regard they entertained
for his character both as a soldier and a gentleman. It may, indeed, be justly said, that they re-
garded him in the light of a father, and honoured him as their stanch and generous protector.

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SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 15

generality of those in France, is ill built. The M^ndows of the houses,
which generally reach from the floor to the ceiling, have balconies of
wrought-iron, usually covered with shirts, stockings, &c. hung out to
dry. This does not, indeed, disgust the taste of Frenchmen, but an
English traveller beholds at one coup d'ceil the striking difference between
the filthy state of this town and that attention to neatness which is uni-
versally predominant even in our villages that lie most remote from the
capital.

The pavement of the streets is extremel}^ bad, and a common-sewer
is a luxury which, I presume, has not hitherto been deemed worthy of
attention.

The environs of the town are beautifully picturesque, and in some
instances very romantic. A fine wood overhanging the river Arques,
together with the majestic ruins of an old castle of the same name, pro-
duce an effect peculiarly interesting to a contemplative spectator. I
must also observ^e, that in the vicinity of this place Hen. IV. won the
first battle against the Duke de Mayence, chief of the Ligueurs, in
1589.

The inhabitants of Dieppe are celebrated for their neatness and inge-
nuity in all works of ivory, horn, and tortoise-shell; and they are also
said to make excellent quadrants and mariner's compasses, with every
other species of astronomical and mathematical instruments. But with
respect to their appearance, it would certainly afford you much amuse-
ment.— The men, from the highest to the lowest, are distinguished by
hats of an enormous size; and the women Avear caps called cauchoises,*

* When women in any oilier part of France, are observed to wear caps of this description, they
are called Cauc/io ses, from the Pajjs du Caux, the province in which Dieppe is situated. This pro-
vince contains ten towns, thirty villages, and about six hundred parishes ; . although it is only ten

16 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE,

at least a yard high, with lappets falling from the ears to the extremity
of the waist. For these caps they commonly give sixty or a hundred
Louis, and they entail them to their posterity. This must certainly be
considered an enormous price for people who do not appear to have six-
pence in their pockets. — The rest of their dress consists of a red or blue-
jacket, a petticoat of a different colour, and sabots, or shoes, of wood,
the tops being covered with sheep-skyi. The tout-ensemble produces,
I do assure you, a most risible appearance.

Here I cannot abstain from making a remark, which, I think, must
liave struck every Englishman on his first landing in this country. After
traversing a wide extent of ocean, we naturally expect to find a great
diversity in the manners and customs of different nations; but on consi-
dering the very trifling distance between the French and English shores,
and the constant communication between them, we contemplate with
astonishment the alteration as well in manners as in language, which is
observable in the two countries. — English solidity is here exchanged for
French' gaiety, our simple costume for the extravagance of Gallic taste,
neatness for external show, and, in every respect, the contrariety is so
apparent, that, except in the complexion of the skin, the Ethiopians are
not farther removed fi'om Britons, in their general character, than are the
inhabitants of the French republic.

I have abundant reason to congratulate myself on my precaution in
bringing my own carriage to this country, since no sum is equivalent to
procure a vehicle approximating to the neatness and accommodation of
even an English pedlar's cart; and with respect to a French diligence.

leagues broad, and eighteen long. It produces a great quantity of grain, flax, henip, and fruits,
and is peculiarly famed for the excellency of its sheep-folds. It abounds, also, iu venison and fish.
Caudebec is the capital. ~>

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SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 17

the most inferior of our common stages is, I assure you, an elegant con-
veyance when put in competition with it. But all consists in habit, and
it is a curious fact, that the people here think lightly of shocks which
would probably dislocate the firmly-knit joints even of our pugilistic
Jackson.

Here it is necessary to observe, that when all is settled with the aubev-
giste* which, by the bye, is no very easy matter, he concerns himself
very little about the weight his horses are to draw, but every thing is
counted ; and a horse must be engaged for every one attached to the
carriage — no matter whether inside or behind — whether the occupiers
of the carriage are children, or weigh twenty stone each, there must be
a horse for each, and one extra. There may, possiblj^, be great pro-
priety in this arrangement ; but, as it is unfortunately beyond my com-
prehension, I shall leave the solution of this knotty point to your supe-
rior ingenuity.

With respect to the French horses, I believe that beauty and propor-
tion, combined with strength, which are universally admired in Eng-
land, never entered into the head of a maitre de poste, who conceives it
unpardonable to reduce an)^ part of the mane, so as to gi^e it the ap-
pearance of neatness, or to pay the least attention to the heels of the
animal, all being left to nature. These miserable horses are frequently
put three abreast, in consequence of wliich the principal labour de^ olves
on the middle beast, which foams and sweats to such a degree as to ex-
cite commiseration in the bosom of every man capable of appreciating
the useful properties of this noble animal. The harness is very little
superior to what is appropriated to English waggons. The jack-boots of

* Innkeeper.
VOL. I. D

18 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the postillions are also monstrous,* and their whips are, in some instances,
three yards long, that they may be the better enabled to produce those
harmonious smacks for which the French drivers are universally re-
nowned.

Trees of Liber ft/ are planted in several parts of Dieppe, and care-
fully watered every evening ; but those which I have seen do not ap-
pear in a flourishing state : — perhaps the soil is not congenial to them.

The prefect of this place, M. Cartier, waited upon me ; and, in con-
sequence of a recommendatory letter from M. Otto, he treated me with
the most marked civilitj^ and that winning attention which is calculated
to inspire sentiments of respect and esteem. He insisted on my accom-
panying him home, that he might furnish me with letters of recommen-
dation to his friends; and observed, that I, who had shown so much
civility to his countrymen, at a time when they needed protection in
England, ought to have every possible attention paid me in France. On
my arrival at his residence, I was ushered into a very handsome apart-
ment, and introduced to some of the principal persons in the town, with
whom I partook of an elegant collation and some of the finest vin de
Champaign de rose. Their conversation was sprightly and agreeable,
and, on my rising to take leave, they unanimously expressed a wish to
see me on my return.

For the sake of form, my trunks were just opened, and then permitted
to be reloaded on the carriage, on the payment of a very mitigated duty.
In a word, I had no cause of complaint ; for although I found the ac-

* Notwithstanding the ridiculous appearance of Jack-boots, they are considered as indispensibles
by the French drivers, in securing them from injury ; to which they would otherwise be exposed
in the great agitation occasioned by the bad state of the roads in France. They are called bottes
fortes; are made of strong leather doubled, and padded on the inside, towards knee.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

19

commodations at Dieppe very inferior to those of my native land, that
circumstance was more than counterbalanced by the polite and respect-
ful behaviour of all with whom I had occasion to converse, either on
matters of business or amusement.

Having extended my letter to a length which, I fear, has exhausted
your patience as well as my powers of description, I shall conclude by
subscribing myself

My Lord,

Yours, very sincerely,

THOMAS THORNTON.

J) 2

50 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER II.

Description of the Country beyond Dieppe. — Rouen — Cathedral of Notre
Dame — Church of St. Ouen — Bridge of Boats — Marche aiix Vaux, the
Scene of Joan d Arcs Execution— Market for Horses held on Sunday —
Singular Prerogative of the Archbishop under the old Regime — Poplars
improperly chosen as Trees of Liberty — Botanical Garden — Manifactures.
— Humorous Mistake respecting coloured Eggs.

MY LORD, Rouen, June 14, 1802.

\ RESUME my pen to inform you, that our next stage towards Paris
was Rouen, the capital of Normandy, where I was desirous of arriv-
ing as soon as circumstances would permit.

Having taken an early breakfast on the morning subsequent to the
■date of my last communication, we quitted Dieppe, and pursued our
route through an immense tract of champaign country, which, for the
most part, appeared fertile and well cultivated, although the cottages
were so thinly scattered, that it seemed almost impossible for them to
furnish one hundredth part of the population necessary for the purposes
of agriculture. The rural scenery fell short of my expectations, and I
remarked with astonishment, that, notwithstanding the advanced state of
the season, the corn was very unripe.

The approach to Rouen is certainly well contrived, and has a very
agreeable effect. The road, being well paved, is excellently adapted

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 21

to winter-travelling, and on the gravel causeways that are raised on each
side, pedestrians are effectually sheltered from the intense heat of the
sun, by rows of lofty and umbrageous trees. The adjoining lands are
spotted with some elegant pavilions, whither the citizens of Rouen oc-
casionally retire from the fatigues of business, to enjoj^ the fruits of their
industry, and not unfrequently to devote their evening hours to dancing
in the open air, wliile the feathered tenants of the grove warble respon-
sive to the cheerful airs of the musician, and all nature seems to parti-
cipate in the general hilarity. In the perspective are some extensive
sheep-walks, beautifully clothed with herbage, and extending to the
very svmimits of the surrounding mountains.

On entering the town we drove to the Hotel Vatel, but as that ap-
peared fxilly occupied, we proceeded to the Hotel de France, a pretty
good inn, where we met with two English gentlemen, who had been
our fellow-passengers in the packet-boat.

Rouen, situated at the distance of about forty-five miles from Dieppe,
is a very old town, the streets of which are narrow, crooked, and dirtj-;
and the houses, being chiefly built of jvood, haAC a very disagreeable
appearance. This city w as formerly strongly fortified, and the castle of
St. Catharine, which stands upon an eminence, was deemed capable of
defending it against a besieging army. — Here w^ere, likewise, in ancient
times, several venerable monasteries,

" Where pious beadsmen from the world retir'd
" In blissful visions wing'd their souls to heav'n."

But the cathedral of Notre Dame and the church dedicated to St.
Ouen are, at present, the principal objects of attraction.

The cathedral, dedicated to the blessed \nrgin, is a very magnificent
structure sun'ounded by three towers ; one of which, called La Tour de

M

^us4i', fr-ff^^i .

C/i/j'?'^{'i/jrJ'^

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 21

to winter-travelling, and on the gravel causeways that are raised on each
side, pedestrians are effectually sheltered from the intense heat of the
sun, by rows of lofty and umbrageous trees. The adjoining lands are
spotted with some elegant pavilions, whither the citizens of Rouen oc-
casionally retire from the fatigues of business, to enjoy the fruits of their
industry, and not unfrequently to devote their evening hours to dancing
in the open air, while the feathered tenants of the grove warble respon-
sive to the cheerftil airs of the musician, and all nature seems to parti-
cipate in the general hilarity. In the perspective are some extensive
sheep-walks, beautifully clothed with herbage, and extending to the
very summits of the surrounding mountains.

On entering the town we drove to the Hotel Vatel, but as that ap-
peared fiiUy occupied, we proceeded to the Hotel de France, a pretty
good inn, where we met with two English gentlemen, who had been
our fellow-passengers in the packet-boat.

Rouen, situated at the distance of about forty-five miles from Dieppe,
is a very old town, the streets of which are narrow, crooked, and dirty;
and the houses, being chiefly built of wood, have a very disagreeable
appearance. This city was formerly strongly fortified, and the castle of
St, Catharine, which stands upon an eminence, was deemed capable of
defending it against a besieging army. — Here were, likewise, in ancient
times, several venerable monasteries,

" Where pious beadsmen from the world retir'd
" In blissful visions wing'd their souls to heav'n."

But the cathedral of Notre Dame and the church dedicated to St.
Ouen are, at present, the principal objects of attraction.

The cathedral, dedicated to the blessed virgin, is a very magnificent
structure surrounded by three towers ; one of which, called La Tour de

22 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

Beurre, or " Butter Tower," received its appellation from the circum-
stance of Pope Innocent the Eighth haA^ing permitted the use of butter
during Lent to such as would contribute to its erection. — In this tower
was a bell of prodigious size called La Cloche George d'Amboise, from
the prelate who founded the tower. It was ten feet in height and ten
in diameter, weighing thirty-six thousand pounds. The same benefac-
tor, as well as William the Conqueror, bequeathed an immense treasure
in jewels, gold, silver, and sacerdotal habits, to this cathedral.

When the present marble pavement was laid, the old monuments
were removed from the choir, and in their places were substituted in-
scriptive memorials, highly deserving the attention of an English
traveller. — In this hallowed spot repose the bodies of Richard the First
of England and his younger brother Henry, together with John Duke
of Bedford, and regent of France ; and in the middle of the choir for-
merly stood a marble statue of King Charles the Fifth of France, whose
heart was here deposited.

Our guide informed us, that one of the chapels formerly contained a
curious clock, with the representations of St. Michael and the Devil,
the latter being struck, every revolving hour, by the destroying sword
of the archangel. In times of superstition such an object could not
fail of exciting the veneration of the multitude, although the mechanism
was doubtless as simple as that wliich moves the Avell-known figures at
St. Dunstan's church in Fleet-street. — Such, howcA^er, have been the
effects of the revolutionary mania, that they have, like a resistless tor-
rent, swept away all vestiges of the bell, the monuments, the riches,
the archangel, and the devil himself.

The church dedicated to St. Ouen* is a beautiful Gothic structure, and

* Formerly, when the kings of France visited Rouen, they were accustomed to lodge in the Be-
nedictine's abbey, belonging to this church.

^
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SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 23

its formation is so extremely delicate, that it appears almost superior to
the workmanship of mortals; but the same spirit of equalization which
has caused such numerous and dreadfial devastations, has also despoiled
this venerable pile of all its richest ornaments. In the chapel of St.
Agnes is the sepulchre of the celebrated Alexander de Farnese, with
that of his pupil who put him to death, and afterwards strangled him-
self with the very cord with which he had inflicted immolation on his
master.

There are several other buildings in this city which an antiquarj'^ might
deem particularly worthy of attention ; but as I do not take upon my-
self the task of an elaborate tourist, this account of the most conspicuous
rehgious edifices must plead my excuse for the neglect of the re-
mainder.

The bridge of boats* at Rouen has been frequently mentioned bv tra-
vellers, and from the singularity of its construction, is worthy of no-
tice. It consists of a number of barges of great burthen, strongly lashed
together, and paved with large stones; and is about a thousand feet
long, extending from the middle of the quay of Rouen to the Faux-
bourg of St. Sever. Each barge is separately arched over, in conse-
quence of Avhich, the ascent and descent from one barge to another
renders it exceedingly inconvenient to carriages, especially when hea^dly
laden. It rises and sinks with the ebbing and flowing of the tide ; and
is easily taken to pieces in winter, when any danger is apprehended from
the floating masses of ice. The time occupied in opening it, to admit
the passage of large vessels, by detaching one barge from another, is
very tiresome, when persons are waiting on each side of the river for
an opportunity of crossing; and I am inclined to think that all your

■* The annual expence of keeping this bridge in repair is computed at ten thousand livres, or
four hundred pounds sterling.

24 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

philosophy would avail but little were you to be detained three hours in
such a situation. A Frenchman, however, accoimnodates himself to
this inconvenience with the most perfect sang froid, and if he happen
to come a few minutes too late, a Peste ! or Sucre Dieu, quel Malheur !
is the only symptom of his disappointment. A litUe lower, are the
remains of the stone-bridge, built by the empress Maud, daughter of
Henry the First, king of England ; and we were given to understand,
that these ruins frequently prove dangerous in the navigation of the
river.

The marche aux vaux, or veal market, in this cit}% is celebrated in
history, as having been the spot where the renowned Pucelle cVOr-
leans, after being made prisoner by the English, and undergoing a dis-
graceful trial for sorcery, was inhumanly burned alive at the stake. I
am aware that the superstition of the age, and some other points may
be adduced in extenuation of this barbarity ; but there is certainly no
feasible argument to excuse such a flagrant ^dolation of the established
rules of war; and, for my own part, I must ever regard Jeanne d'Arc
as a noble heroine, struggling for the rights of her native country, which
was then nearly subjugated by the conquering swords of my country-
men.

You will probably be surprised to hear, that a market for horses is
held every Sunday morning at the Boulevards on the opposite side of the
city, where the noise and clamour is extremely offensive. If it be Avithin
the power of the police to remedy this abominable evil, it is greatly
to its dishonour that the several officers should remain silent spectators
of such a nuisance. Decency and order, however, will again rear their
heads in France, and already have they moderated, in some measure,
the exuberance of revolutionary furor; though one generation will, in
all probability, pass away, before the French resume that urbanity

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 25

which was formerly their most distinguishing characteristic. The dregs
of the community are alone desirous of perpetuating the enormities of the
revolution: moderate men hailed the return of their long persecuted
priests, and accompanied them to their deserted altars with every de-
monstration of devotion.

Every city of note has some peculiar rights and privileges, which more
or less excite the astonishment of those who live in the present age, be-
cause they generally deduce their origin from times long since passed,
and always partake of the superstition of the era which gave them birth.
Under the old regime of France, the archbishop of Rouen, who styled
himself primate of Normandy, had the privilege, once a year, of pardon-
ing a condemned criminal, who, after solemnly promising to amend his
conduct, was led in procession through the city, accompanied by the
religious orders, and set at liberty in a chapel called the Innocents. This
prerogative was derived from an old legend, which stated, that St. Ro-
manus, archbishop of Rouen, overcame a dreadfiil dragon, with the as-
sistance of two malefactors who had received sentence of death ; and in
remembrance of this surprising event, a statue was erected in the above-
mentioned chapel, representing St. Romanus in the act of killing the
monster.

There are two play-houses in Rouen, called the Theatre des Arts,
and the Theatre cle la Republiqiie, which are generally well attended by
the fashionables of the cit)^ The performances in general have little
merit; but the chief actors from Paris make their appearance during
their vacation.

At Rouen we again saw the tree of liberty, but here, as in almost
every other place, this exotic, from the lopping and pruning it has un-
dergone, seems to be in a very sickly condition. In this citj^, however,
it is well protected, being planted opposite the barracks, by which means

VOL. I. E

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74^/1/- ^/^ - ^iw/m^, fTvm .shimmy a//.^ \, /6i/<:i</<^ .

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 25

which was formerly their most distinguishing characteristic. The dregs
of the community are alone desirous of perpetuating the enormities of the
revolution: moderate men hailed the return of their long persecuted
priests, and accompanied them to their deserted altars with every de-
monstration of devotion.

Every city of note has some peculiar rights and privileges, which more
or less excite the astonishment of those who live in the present age, be-
cause they generally deduce their origin from times long since passed,
and always partake of the superstition of the era which gave them birth.
Under the old regime of France, the archbishop of Rouen, who styled
himself primate of Normandy, had the privilege, once a year, of pardon-
ing a condemned criminal, who, after solemnly promising to amend his
conduct, was led in procession through the city, accompanied by the
religious orders, and set at liberty in a chapel called the Innocents. This
prerogative was derived from an old legend, which stated, that St. Ro-
manus, archbishop of Rouen, overcame a dreadful dragon, with the as-
sistance of two malefactors who had received sentence of death ; and in
remembrance of this surprising event, a statue was erected in the above-
mentioned chapel, representing St. Romanus in the act of killing the
monster.

There are two play-houses in Rouen, called the Theatre des Arts,
and the Theatre de la Hepuhlique, which are generally well attended by
the fashionables of the city. The performances in general have little
merit ; but the chief actors from Paris make their appearance during
their vacai:ion.

At Rouen we again saw the tree of liberty, but here, as in almost
every other place, this exotic, from the lopping and pruning it has un-
dergone, seems to be in a very sickly condition. In this city, however,
it is well protected, being planted opposite the barracks, by which means

VOL. I. E

26 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

it is constantly defended by several regiments. I have been surprised
that the Lombardy poplar should have been generally selected for this
purpose ; for the rapidity of its growth, and the shortness of its duration,
are certainly very inconsistent with that stability which the republican
politicians seem anxious to connect with the ideas of liberty instilled into
the minds of the French people. Our sturdy oak, which continues to
flourish amid the war of elements and the ravages of time, might have
answered the purpose much better.

We also visited a large botanical-garden; but when I have stated
that it is large, nothing can be added in its praise. The few curious
exotics which it contains do not appear to be much better off than the
tree of liberty ; as some of them are decaying for want of proper care,
and others are in an equally deplorable condition, from too much un-
scientific nursing.

Rouen is particularly famous for that kind of manufacture called
Houennerie or Siamoises, a kind of cotton, which is here sold at a very
cheap rate. Ships of two hundred tons burthen can go as far up the
Seine as the bridge of boats ; and, in time of peace, a very brisk trade
is carried on, as it is considered the port of Paris. It is also necessary
to observe, that Rouen is the birth-place of the tragic puet Corneille, and
the celebrated philosopher Fontenelle.

In the course of our stroll through this city, the whole of our party
were astonished on seeing coloured eggs placed for sale in a confectioner's
shop, as they supposed them to be naturally of those varied hues. I
humored this mistake, and am convinced you will laugh when I tell you,
that a high-blooded Hibernian gentleman, in company, exclauned,
" By Jasus, and I wonder if the whites are of the same colour. Faith
and I'll take some of the breed to Ireland." I now undeceived my com-
panions, and a hearty laugh ensued. The fact is, the French have a

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

27

custom of colouring eggs after they have been boiled hard, which, pro-
duced upon a table, have a very vi'himsical effect.

I have, perhaps, been too laconic in my account of the capital of
Normandy, where so many British heroes figured in ancient times.
Fully assured, however, that your goodness will pardon all omissions,

I remain, &c.

Ui) sabot, p. 16,

e2

g3 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER III.

Civilities received hy Col. T. from the Prefect and In]tahitants of Rouen.-^
Description of his travelling Equipage. — Tnterviezv with Mr. Morris. — The
French-horn. — Introduction to several Sporting Gentlemen. — The Farm-
house.— Similarity of Character betzveen the Sportsinen of France and York-
shire. — A Rendezvous. — Picqueurs. — A Fox-hunt. — Normandy Cider. —
Shooting Excursion. — 3Ir. Godarfs. — A Boar-Hunt. — Champ de Bataille.

— Elbceuf — Dinner given by the Sportsmen of Rouen. Col. T 's Arrival

announced in the Netvspaper. — Cote rotie Grapes. — Curious Dining-Table.

MY LORD, Rouen, June 22, 1802.

JVlY last letter was principally occupied with a description of this city
and its environs; hut in consequence of a recent introduction to a party
after my own heart, I now sit down to communicate some intelligence
on a subject which I venture to prognosticate you will not deem uninte-
resting; particularly as it relates to the commencement of my Sporting
Tour in the territories of the republic.

Through the medium of a Mr. Hartley,* I was introduced to the pre-
fect, M. Beugnot, a very sensible and respectable man, who, on perus-
ing the letters I had received from M. Otto, and the under prefect
of Diepjie, treated me with the utmost civility. At the same time

* This gentleman had formerly hunted with the Colonel's hounds in Yorkshire ; but having after-
wards married a French lady of fashion, he fixed his residence at Rouen, where he lived about
twenty years, when he rendered the above-mentioned service to our author.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 29

my acquaintance with most of the Enghsh inhabitants led me into the
best societies ; and several emigrants of consequence, whom I had the
good fortune to protect during the sanguinary reigns of Robespierre and
Marat, took every opportunity of testifying their gratitude, by render-
ing my stay in Rouen as agreeable as possible.

The singularity of my* carriage excited general attention; and seve-
ral sporting gentlemen waited upon me at my hotel, in order to inspect
mv hounds-}-. I hailed them with real joy; for sportsmen, you know, are
generous souls. Finding many of my visitants perfectly conversant with

* Colonel Thornton's equipage, which was purposely constructed, after his own plan, for this
tour through France, was remarkably commodious, and enabled him to transport a dozen dogs, in
boxes upon springs, at the front and back of the carriage ; whilst the interior of the vehicle con-
tained a secret repository of guns and fishing-tackle. The dickie, on which the servant sat, was
formed to carry two terriers, if necessary, and might be removed beliind the carriage at pleasure.
The imperial, also, might be put on before or behind, for the purpose of using the post-chaise, if re-
quired, as a landaulet, by which tlie travellers were greeted with an uninterrupted view of the sur-
rounding country. In addition to these conveniencies the ' Colonel ordered a light circular box,
which, being placed under the windows, so as not to derange the symmetrical appearance of the
carriage, was designed to preclude those unpleasant bickerings which frequently arise in joumies
from the multiplicity of the ladies' band-boxes ; necessary indeed to the softer sex, but which
generally prove very objectionable to gentlemen when travelling.

Colonel T— — — mentioned to the editor a case in point, where a certain duke and his amiable
duchess had some altercation on the subject of a band-box, which she wished to convey to Edin-
burgh. The duchess pleaded her cause with so much sweetness and affability, and so very pointedly,
that it seemed impossible but she should have softened his Grace into acquiescence, particularly
after stating, that as she paid all due deference to his Grace's bull-dogs, she conceived he might pay-
some attention to her band-box. But intreaty and argument proved equally unavailing, as the duke
remained inexorable to all that was adduced on this topic. — The Colonel resolving to obviate such
difficulties, and still consult the accommodation of the ladies, planned the above-mentioned box,
which very commodiously contained all the caps, bonnets, flowers, and laces that were purchased
during the tour; and it is really inconceivable what a quantity of articles were thus transported with-
out receiving any injury.

f The Colonel took with him in this tour, twelve fox-hounds, viz. Caustic, Consul, Conqueror,
Madcap, Marengo, Twister, Chaunter, iMorthier, !Mahomet, Echo, Cieneral, and Jocund ; but the
last was unfortunatel , 'ost at Brighton. To these may be added, Carlo, a pointer ; and A'ixen, a
beautiful parlour-terrier,

30 SPOUTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the joys of the chase, I readily accepted an invitation to dine at the
house of a Mr. Morris, where all the best men of the field were col-
lected.

Having introduced myself at Mr. Morris's, and inspected his sump-
tuous residence, I Avas ushered into the drawing-room, and left for a
few moments to my own contemplations, my kind host having some
trifling business to transact. Being rather drowsy, I threw myself upon
a sofa with an intent of taking a nap ; but I was suddenly roused by the
burst of a French-horn, which proceeded from the opposite house. I
listened attentively 'till the performer arrived at proclaiming the Points
de la Chasse ; when my anticipation of the joys of the field effectually
drove away dull sleep. At that moment, Mr. Morris entered the apart-
ment, and enquired whether my short repose had refreshed me? I re-
plied, that the notes of the French-horn had put the poppied god to
flight. He expressed much sorrow at the disturbance, but observed that
the performer. General Rufiin, Avas engaged to dinner, in order to be
introduced to me. " Equally solicitous," continued he, " to be deemed
a finished sportsman, as he formerly was to gain the renom^nee of a brave
soldier on the plains of Marengo, the general plays so incessantly, that all
the neighbours fervently wish he may shortly arrive at perfection. How-
ever, you will find him a plain unaffected gentleman, and I trust his man-
ners and conversation will lead you to pardon the ill-timed obtrusion of
his music."

Shortly afler, Mr. IMorris introduced me to his amiable family, as
well as to Monsieur, the ci-devant Marquis d' Halle, General Rufiin, and
Colonel Marigny, of the tvAcnty-fifth regiment of Light Dragoons. The
dinner was sumptuous, and the wines, as may be supposed, of the first
qualit3^

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 31

After dinner, a hunting party was made, to try for wolf; and my
fox-hounds followed us to the field, myself being mounted on a fine
Hungarian horse belonging to Colonel Marigny. By dusk we arrived
at a small village, and alighted at a farm-house, when the huntsmen
proclaimed our arrival by the enchanting unison of six or seven French-
horns, wliich they managed with superior skill. Many apologies were
made for the reception I should experience in such a dwelling, but I
soon made the inmates easy on that score, and hastened to inspect the
hounds,, which I had the satisfaction of finding musical, fresh, and well.
About nine o'clock supper was announced, and after taking a few bum-
pers of Burgundy, we retired to rest; four beds having been made up for
our accommodation in this humble mansion,

" Where easy quiet, a secure retreat,
A harmless life,, that knows not how to cheat.
With home-bred plenty the rich owner bless,
And rural pleasures crown his happiness.
Unvex'd with quarrels, undisturb'd with noise,
<" The country king his peaceful realm enjoys :

Gool grots, and living lakes, the flow'ry pride
Of meads, and streams that through the valley glide :
And shady groves that easy sleep invite,
And after toilsome days, a short repose at night."

DRYDEV.

1 found that the gentlemen of Rouen prided themselves (as indeed do
the Normans in general, in the same manner as the inhabitants of York-
shire,) on their knowledge of all the branches of the chase, and affected
to despise the sportsmen of every other part of France. Normandy has,
indeed, ever been renowned for the breed of its hprses; a circumstance
by no means surprising, the richness of its pastures being almost un-
equalled. As a proof of this, I may adduce the proverbial saying, that
a broom-stick thrown on a grass field the over night, will be found with
difficulty next morning. Speaking of my companions, however, as

32 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

gentlemen, no society could afford greater satisfaction, as they enabled
me, in a few hours, to form my judgment, and compare the sportsmen
of France with those of England. In these gentlemen 1 found pre-
cisely the same ideas, the same keenness, and the same frank character
which marks our Yorkshire sportsmen. In point of science, however,
they far surpass us ; for if our goss covers in England, where we find
our foxes, consist of fi-om ten to thirty acres, here forests of from ten to
fifteen thousand acres are the scenes of action.

At five in the morning we turned out, and I equipped myself d VAn-
glaise, having brought over every thing necessary. The French sporting
dresses, with the exception of large cocked-hats, which are Avorn instead
of caps, are as neat and appropriate as those of the English.

Monsieur D'Halle is grand louvetier, or wolf-hunter, a very honour-
able appellation, although no salary is annexed. It is necessary to ob-
serve, however, that it gives the owner an exclusive right to try for wolf
whenever he thinks proper, and makes him, as well as in Yorkshire,
a lord paramount, or freewarren; or, as they term it in Sussex, a com-
mander over a rape.

Having quaffed some excellent milk and white brandy, we advanced
about a mile, and then entered the Forete-Verte, or Green- Forest. Here
we soon came to a rendezvous, where we found a cloth laid on the turf)
horses at picquet, hounds in couples, or leashes, tied to the trees, and
every thing in good style; our breakfast being exactly similar to that
described by Jacques Fouilloux, in my Scotch Tour.*

The picqueurs then made a report of what they had observed ; for in
their mode of hunting, very experienced men examine all the roads and
moist places, to discover what animal frequents them. For this purpose

* See Col. Thornton's Tour through the Highlands of Scotland, page 126.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 33

they have a hound, thoroughly bred and sagacious; and on seeing the
impression of a wolf, they allow the dog to scent, when, if he flourishes,
or gives any sign of scent, either stronger or weaker, they are enabled
to decide what time may have elapsed since the game in question passed
that way. They then examine where he has dunged, and from the
size of that, and the print of the foot, they can generally ascertain the
sex and age. Lastly, they take the dog, called levrier, and go round
the avenues; where if the print of the foot is not visible, they conclude,
that the game is laid down in that direction.

After we had eaten a very substantial breakfast, the keeper belonging
to the wolf-hounds informed us, he had seen the print of a wolf, but
that it was not fresh, and he thought it very unlikely we should find
him, even if we devoted the whole day to the search ; but if we would
condescend, he said, to hunt fox, there was one in the division close to
us. I confess I was very desirous of hunting wolf, but as it was politely
referred to me, and all the company seemed anxious to view my hounds
in work, I readily decided for fox. Accordingly, after one more bum-
per to good sport, I uncoupled my hounds, and I may safely affirm,
that before the fifth couple were allowed to dash into the cover, the first
hound had found the fox, which ran close by me, as I gave a cheering
talUho. The scent was good, and the hounds pressed their fox, which
appeared in view several times. By the pace they went, I knew he
could not stand long, and, as I stuck very close to them, I was so for-
tunate as to be the only person near when they killed, after a run of
forty minutes. My companions were absolutely delighted, and I im-
mediately presented a couple of my finest hounds to M. clHalU; to add
to his wolf-pack, as also another couple to Mr. Morris and Gen. Ruffin,
for their fox-packs.

VOL. I. F

34 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The morning proving remarkably pleasant, it was proposed that the
French hounds should join with mine, but the former were soon left nearly
a mile behind. The forest was beautiful, but so very extensive, that al-
though the horns blew incessantly we were all thrown, and after a search
of nearly two hours, we fell in with the huntsman, who had had a good
run to recover his hounds, but could give no account of my six couple.
My ten-ier, a beautiful white dog, was also lost. However I was as-
sured that all possible pains would be taken to recover them ; and whilst
we were debating on what measures could be most prudendy adopted,
I thought I heard them at a distance. By degrees the sound grew
stronger, upon which I rode forward, and, falling in with them, we
viewed a fox very much distressed. The French hounds then came for-
ward, and we laid them on before mine, which they soon joined, and
after twisting their game briskly, parted views. They also killed this
fox, which seemed an old dog, having little or no tag.

The sun now burst forth, and the day proved extremely warm ; but
the beauty of the forest scenery, and the cheerfulness of my companions
rendered this one of the most delicious mornings I ever witnessed. We
then returned to the farm, the horns blowing tunefully the whole way,
and arrived at the mansion about twelve o'clock.

After changing our dress, some of the gentlemen undertook to prepare
certain dishes, -whilst I saw the hounds fed. We then sauntered about
the grounds 'till summoned to a very comfortable repast, accompanied
with the best of wines. After each of us had drank about a bottle and
a half of Burgundy, I was invited to taste some of the best Normandy
cider. I was struck with the singularity of its colour, which was per-
fectly red, but although very palatable, I thought it inferior to that
given me by my friend Mr. Stephens, of Camerton House, which was

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 35

the finest cockagee. I noticed particularly in the Normandy cider, that
it was too powerful, and rather too sweet.

At six o'clock we remounted our horses, and returned to Rouen, where
we all went to the theatre. My friends, and particularly the ladies, were
very anxious to learn the sport of the day. How many wolves and foxes
had we destroyed ? How many deer were killed ? and, in particular, how
had my favourite terrier, Vue7i, behaved ? — In short, the ladies, as usual,
made a thousand enquiries, without giving us time to answer orje.

Hearing that game was extremely scarce, the ground parched, and
Uttle or no scent, I procured a basket so constructed as to go on the top
of my carriage, and filled it with a dozen quails, those birds being very
plentiftil in the market. The ladies agreed to accompany us in our ex-
pedition, and as the before-mentioned gentlemen were all keen shots,
they wished to see my pointers tried. Accordingly, we drove about 'till
we arrived at some marshy ground, when I let fly the quails, and after
an hour's rest, I hunted for, and found them all. One quail, indeed,
escaped us, when, at that instant, a Merlin-haAvk appeared and raked*
him. This hawk came so near me, that I easily killed him, and as he
fell, the quail flew away, apparently unhurt. The hounds gave great
satisfaction, and we tried an English dog belonging to one of the gen-
tlemen, who seemed to esteem him very highly, as they all do every
thing English ;-f- but he was not half broke. General Ruffin, and Co-
lonel Marigny shot uncommonly well, and our excursion altogether was
remarkably pleasant.

On our return to Rouen, we all dined with the officers of the twentj'-
fifth regiment, and in the evening repeated our visit to the theatre, which

* A term used in falconry, for seizing the quarrv.

t Indeed it is proverbial, " Anglo mania."

F 2

36 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

was badly lighted, and as ill-attended; but the performers were tole-
rably good.

The ensuing forenoon we strolled about the town with the ladies, who
purchased some lace, and found that their English veils were much in
ton. The sporting gentlemen, the officers, and some of the principal
people of the city partook of a dinner with me, and the evening passed
very pleasantly. The French are gay, and drink nearly as much wine
as we do, but it is all during the repast; for as soon as the cloth is drawn,
the wine disappears, and is immediately succeeded by coffee and sweet
liqueurs.

Next morning my hounds were sent forward to a Mr. Godart's, where
I understood there was great variety of stags, roe-bucks, wild-boars,
foxes, rabbits, and other game. On our arrival we were introduced to
Madame and her two daughters, her husband being then at Paris. The
mansion was entirely out of repair, the owner being a keen sportsman,
very liberal, and so passionately fond of horses as nearly to have ruined
himself, which so many others have done before him.

We rose early the ensuing morning, and, perceiving a great deal of
dew, we took our guns, and tlirew the hounds into cover, being deter-
mined to shoot whatever w^e saw. They soon discovered a litter of foxes,
and rose them very sharply, but they all got to ground. We shot se-
veral rabbits, but as the cover was remarkably thick, we only viewed
one fox.

After returning to a plentiful breakfast, I took my air and shot-guns,
and proceeded to the park, which was well protected with a clay-A^^all,
the top being thatched. This work, called pisse, seems to form an ex-
cellent fence. We soon roused a fine stag, which bounded so near to
my lady, that she M'^as much alarmed, and ran to me for protection.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 37

conceiving it to have been a M^ild-boar. The stag had only velvet;* of
course had he been disposed to attack us, the pain he must have endured
by using his horns in that state, would have prevented any danger.

I soon afterwards perceived, in a thick part of the cover, a large wild
sow, and nine pigs, or inarcasins, as they are called in France. The
sow was nearly black, but the pigs were mottled, or striped with
brown.

I now thought fit to take my air-rifle, of whose powers my com-
panions had no conception; and conceal myself in the cover. The
hounds being brought up, a young wild-boar passed me, when I got a
fair shot at him at about fifty yards, and heard the ball hit him, though
he did not seem to feel it. However at about thirty yards he began to
stagger, and I followed, my gun being re-loaded instantaneously. The
keepers now advanced, when we perceived the boar stretched on the
turf, and so effectually wounded, that it seemed unnecessarj^ to shoot at
him; but in order to try my gun, I took aim at his skull, and he imme-
diately expired. On examining the first wound, it appeared that the
ball had passed through his heart; in consequence of which, Colonel
Marigny placed a hat in a tree, and requested me to trot his Hungarian
horse, and endeavour to hit it at about sixty j^ards distance. I did as

* Deer cast their horns about the month of May. Nature seems to have intended this for the
purposes of supplying those which have broke their horns by fighting, with new ones the succeeding
year; as no animal fights more desperately, or viciously, than the deer. Their fencing and parry-
ing, to those who have witnessed it, is beyond every thing, and, it may be said, scientific. During
the time of the velvet they remain concealed as much as possible, conscious of their inability to at-
tack or defend themselves ; as the most trifling touch upon the velvet, in this state, gives them ex-
quisite torture. The velvet, when fried, is considered by the Epicurean sportsmen, the most deli-
cate part of the deer. The growth of the horns only occupies about six weeks between the casting to
the bringing them to perfection, when they have been known to weigh twenty pounds. It is a mis-
taken notion, that the antlers impede the deer in cover, as they enable him, -on the contrary-, to
dash through thickets and save his eyes, as also to aid him when reared on his hind legs (which
they do to an extraordinary height) to draw down the young branches for sustenance.

38 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

he desired, and very luckily took my aim so true, that the ball passed
through the centre of the crown. The colonel was highly gratified,
and, having heard me extol his Hungarian horse, as the surest-footed
animal I ever rode, begged that I would recollect this shot, by accept-
ing his horse, which he pressed so strongly upon me, that it was im}X)s-
sible to refuse the present. We then returned to the mansion, and,
after expressing our obligations to the ladies, we set out for Rouen,
having killed the wild-boar or marcasin, a score of rabbits, and several
swallows.

Mrs. T — was close by me Avhen the French hounds were at bay vnth
the marcasin which they durst not approach. Having seen my first shot>
she appeared less timid, but I and my companions persuaded her to
take her station behind a tree. There was, indeed, no great danger
from this animal, as it was mortally wounded ; but had it been slightly
hurt, it might have proved a most desperate and dangerous antagonist.
Having been previously informed by the huntsman, that the aged
boars were intended as a present to the First Consul, I resolved not to
encroach on the politeness shewn me, by shooting at one of a very large
growth; and for the same reason I singled out the above-mentioned
marcasin, which seemed about four months old.

After quitting Madame Godart's, we visited the beautiful chateau of
the Due de Beauvron, called Champ de Batailk, which would be ren-
dered far more interesting, were it well supplied with water ; for with-
out that most essential appendage, no large estate can, in my opinion,
be considered complete. This estate had been strongly recommended
to me by way of purchase, but the want of Avater is always an insur-
mountable objection.

Having traversed, for some time, the most luxuriant forest-scenery,
we. arrived at the enchanting town of Elboeuf, much celebrated for

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 39

its manufacture of cloth, whither Col. Marigny and Mr. Morris had pre-
viously dispatched a courier to order dinner. In the cool of the even-
ing we rode gently back to Rouen, highly gratified with the rich
scenery on the banks of the Seine, and agreeably entertained by the
calls of innumerable quantities of quails, which were heard in every
direction.

At the breakfast-table, next morning, the gentlemen of Rouen were
very inquisitive respecting the nature of boar-hunting, but the trifling
specimen I had witnessed, did not enable me to speak very satisfactorily
upon the subject. Shortly after, however, the marcasin appeared on a
sledge, and myself and friends were requested to partake of a dinner
which was to be given by all the sportsmen that could be collected, at
the principal tavern of the city. We readily accepted the invitation,
and the whole party, when assembled, consisted of about twenty per-
sons. The dinner, for its novely, I shall here describe, —

First was produced a large tray full of green oysters, as they are
termed, in the same manner as Solan-geese are served up at Edinburgh,
to whet the appetite. This spur to eating being removed, the dinner
was served up, consisting of

Soup, and Bouille.

Capons. Un Salamis de Livre, being our hashed hare.

Maintenon cotelets.

Rabbits. Pates,

Petits of all sorts.

The marcasin barbacued, very sumptuously dressed up with fruit and
flowers, forming a most showy dish, and smoking hot, then appeared.
The gentlemen, with great pomp, poured on the marcami two bottles of
Champaign, after which it was served to the companj^; and the enter-
tainment concluded Avith an immense turbot. All kinds of melons were

_^0 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

on the table, which you will be astonished to hear, were eaten with
boiled beef, but such is the custom here, and even figs are occasionally
eaten in the same manner !

That part of the boar \\ hich I partook of was the fillet, and I assure
you I never tasted any thing superior. The bottle and conversation cir-
culated freely, and many compliments were paid me as a sportsman, in
consequence of my recent success. Indeed the very flattering attention
I received, and the frequent solicitations to drink a variet)^ of Avines
with every gentleman present, very nearly reduced me to a state of ine-
briation.

Previous to my leaving Rouen, I begged Col. Marignj^'s acceptance
of a very valuable gun, which had been highly approved, as some return
for his politeness in having presented me with his Hungarian horse ; and,
at the same time, I ordered six leash of hounds, as a present to Mr.
Morris. Letters of introduction were then given me, to the prefect of
Evreux, and to the proprietor of the ancient and magnificent castle of
Navarre, which formerly belonged to the celebrated family of the Due
de Bouillon. I must also inform you, that through my friend Mr.
Hartley, who is concerned in the Rouen newspaper, my arrival at this
place had been announced in the most dashing style, and a regular
journal of my sporting career laid before the public. This was cer-
tainly much in my favour, as it announced me with an eclat I little
deserve, to the surrounding country.

Mr. Morris has kindly engaged to send me fifty dozen of the finest
Champaign, and the same quantity of Clos de Vougeot; and Colonel
Marigny, on whose estate in the south of France grow the hermitage
and cote rotie* grapes, has also promised me four hogsheads of each.

* Cote rotie is derived tVom the powerful eflect of the sun on that part of the country, which is
rendered in English, " scorching or burning shore." These grapes are peculiarly delicious.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

41

Mr. Morris has likewise presented me with a curious dining-table, com-
posed, as it appears, of different roots of trees. It is said to have
been the property of the late king, and is regarded by me as a very
great treasure.

So much for my sporting and convivial amusements, which wanted
but your presence to have rendered them complete.

Adieu,

Yours, &c.

Us Chapeau, p< 15.

VOL. I.

41 SPOKTLNG TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER IV.

Aspect of the Country beyond Rouen. — A dilapidated Monastery. — Delightful
View from a Hill in the Vicinity of St. Ouen. — An Intruder. — Magnificence
of Rural Scenery on the Continent. — A public Holiday. — Climate of France
peculiarly favourable to Vegetation. — Obsei^vations on the French [Fines. —
E.vorbitant Charge for a Breakfast at Vaudreuil. — The Aubergiste and the
English Ambassador. — Chateau de Vaudreuil. — Remarkable Show of Oats.
— Chateau de Marquis de Conflans. — Reception at Louviers. — Beauty of the
adjacent Country. — Evreux. — The Archbishop of Narbonne. — Chateau de
Narbonne. — Brief Account of the Artist Poussin. — Botanical Garden. —
Passy. — Property of the Noblesse transferred to Plebeians.

MY LORD, Vernon, June 30, 1802.

X FEEL myself greatly obliged by the solicitude you express for my
happiness, and your friendly anticipation of those pleasures I may pro-
bably enjoy in the course of the tour which I have undertaken. My
primary object in visiting France will, perhaps, cany me to places hi-
therto little frequented by English travellers, and, so far, the intelligence
I shall occasionally communicate, may perhaps prove an agreeable
source of amusement.

The hospitality I received at Rouen, rendered my short stay in that
city so very pleasant, that I confess I left it with much regret.

The country, after leaving Rouen, was exactly similar to that through
which we passed from Dieppe; very flat, and entirely covered with

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. A$

corn. The road is good, and rendered particularly pleasant by its fol-
lowing the course of the Seine. The first object which attracted our
attention was a dilapitated monastery, formerly belonging to an order of
Benedictines, and contributing by its venerable appearance to heighten
the sublimity of the surrounding landscape ; but its magnificence has
been annihilated by the fury of the revolution, and a few pillars and
arches are all that now remain. These, however, have a very striking
effect, and induce the contemplative traveller to exclaim,

" Where burn the gorgeous altar's lasting fires ?
Where frowns the dreadful sanctuary now ?
No more religion's awful flame inspires ;
No more th' asylum guards the fated brow !

No more shall charity, with sparkling eyes
And smiles of welcome, wide unfold the door,
Where pity, list'ning still to nature's cries.
Befriends the wretched and reheve the poor !"

KEATE.

The scattered chateaux of the ci-devant nobility, also, broke occasion-
ally upon the view, but most of them exhibited some melancholy proofs
of the excesses attending popular fury, and the overthrow of legal or-
ganization.

Having changed horses at the small village of St. Ouen, we ascended
a steep hill, fi-om the summit of which we had a most delightful view
of Elboeuf) and the romantic village of Vasell, which is built on a gentle
declivity, and skuts the very margin of the Seine. In the fore-ground
the river appears, whimsically spotted with small islands, some clothed
with wood, and others in a state of luxuriant cultivation. By these
agreeable breaks the broad expanse of water assumes the appearance of
three branching streams, and the body of the river, afler flowing to a
great extent, seems to lose itself under some chalky hills, covered with

g2

44 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

immense forests. From our elevated situation, we had also a distant
view of the city and cathedral of Rouen, %vith an extent of country that
might excite the attention of even the most volatile spectator.

Charmed with the magnificence of the surrounding scenery, I desired
Mr. Bryant to take a couple of drawings fi-om this spot; but whilst he
was complying with my wishes, we were suddenly interrupted by a
plain-looking man, who saw our object, but who might also have known
that the taking a view of Rouen at seven or eight miles distance, could
not be for the purpose of ascertaining its attackable position. However
he demanded my passport, and, although I informed him it was in my
carriage, he seemed much inclined to have me taken up ; but after a
little conversation, I persuaded him to go quietly home and, eat his break-
fast ; assuring him, on the word of a gentleman, that when the sketches
Avere completed, I would follow, and produce my passport. All my
company trembled for the event, seriously anticipating the horrors of a
republican prison. For my own part, however, I was perfectly easy,
and when INfr. Bryant had finished his business, I presented myself at
the door of the intruder, whose lady appeared much more lenient in
her administration of justice than her husband, for on examining my
porte-feuille, she begged I would give myself no farther trouble. The
official gentleman also seemed to imbibe a little of his wife's urbanity, for
he apologized for his conduct, and intreated that I would consider he
had done no more than his duty.

We now descended into a luxuriant valley, and advanced, through a
Avinding road, to the pretty town of Elboeuf, where we ordered dinner;
and I wish I could say as much for the entertainment as I have already
done for the adjacent scenery; but I believe I shall be correct in observ-
ing, that while England, abounds to a certain extent, in the beautiful and
picturesque, on the continent nature assumes a bolder style, arraj's her-

'k

4f SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

immense forests. From our eleA^ated situation, we had also a distant
view of the city and cathedral of Rouen, with an extent of country that
might excite the attention of even the most volatile spectator.

Charmed with the magnificence of the surrounding scenery, I desired
Mr. Bryant to take a couple of drawings from this spot; but whilst he
was complying with my wishes, we were suddenly interrupted by a
plain-looking man, who saw our object, but who might also have known
that the taking a view of Rouen at seven or eight miles distance, could
not be for the purpose of ascertaining its attackable position. However
he demanded my passport, and, although I informed him it was in my
carriage, he seemed much inclined to have me taken up ; but after a
little conversation, I persuaded him to go quietly home and, eat his break-
fast; assuring him, on the word of a gentleman, that when the sketches
were completed, I would follow, and produce my passport. All my
company trembled for the event, seriously anticipating the horrors of a
republican prison. For my own part, however, I was perfectly easy,
and when ]\fi\ Bryant had finished his business, I presented myself at
the door of the intruder, whose lady appeared much more lenient in
her administration of justice than her husband, for on examining my
porte-feuille, she begged I would give myself no farther trouble. The
official gentleman also seemed to imbibe a little of his wife's urbanity, for
he apologized for his conduct, and intreated that I would consider he
had done no more than his duty.

We now descended into a luxuriant valley, and advanced, through a
winding road, to the pretty town of Elboeuf, where we ordered dinner ;
and I wish I could say as much for the entertainment as I have already
done for the adjacent scenery ; but I believe I shall be correct in observ-
ing, that while England, abounds to a certain extent, in the beautifiil and
picturesque, on the continent nature assumes a bolder style, arrays her-

F

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/^t/€^, iKM/r- i:yl^m&7U^

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SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 45

self in magnificence, and presents her works to our attention on a gran-
der and more extensive scale.

In the evening we resumed our journey, having an extensi\'e view of
the forest where we had recently enjoyed our pastime of the chase. The
road to Pont de I'Arche, a small town in the province of Normandy,
and the first that submitted to Hen. IV. is rather heavy ; but on the
left are some beautiful meadows, richly clothed with pasturage, and wa-
tered by the Seine. On approaching the town, we perceived, that the
churches and crosses were adorned with garlands of flowers. This is a
signal for festivity among the French on every public holiday, and upon
such occasions they give the rein to that gaiety which was formerly con-
sidered as their peculiar characteristic : but I am sorry to observe, that
the effects produced by the revolution, seem to have cast a sombre tint
over this horizon. It may, indeed, be asserted, that the French begin to
feel themselves of consequence as men, and to this may be ascribed the
gradual disappearance of their natural frivolity; but which of the two is
the happiest state I leave to your determination, as you have, at present,
more leisure than myself to discuss the question, and the climate of
England, with all its accompaniments, is more adapted to philosophical

reasoning than that of France.

But to return. — After passing through a majestic forest, we entered on
a plain, which, though rather gravelly, appeared fertile and weW culti-
vated; exhibiting a fine show of wheat, oats, barley, onions, French-
beans, carrots, cucumbers, and sun-flowers. Here were, also, some
plantations of cherries, apples, pears, and walnuts. The apples and
pears of Normandy have long been famous, and, from their present lux-
uriant appearance, they seem justly entitled to celebrit5\ Indeed the
genial climate of France seems peculiarly auspicious to the vegetable

46 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

tribes ; and the French wines, which surpass, in flavour and deUcacy,
those of every other country, are more numerous and varied in their
respective species than is usuallj'- imagined. It is my intention to gain
some knowledge of their different kinds, together with the method of
preparing them ; and in some future communication I shall make you
acquainted with the result of my enquiries. The lower orders of people
in England, are perfectly contented with their beer of different sorts,
although such beverage does not tend to exhilarate. But in France the
same order of people, if they cannot purchase the wines of Burgundy
and Champaign, gratify their palates with Hermitage and cote rotie.
They have, however, wines of easy purchase, which are at once pleas-
ant and exhilarating to the spirits. Here I shall dismiss this subject for
the present : It is a wide field to range in ; but you may probably think,
that realization is the best criterion ; and although I cannot transport to
you what is now in my possession, I never quaff the delicious juice with-
out rendering it more palatable by giving you as a standing toast.

On our arrival at Vaudreuil v.'e took up our quarters at a pleasant
auberge, where we breakfasted on a few eggs and a bottle of wine ; but
not such as I have been speaking of) for it was sour and scarcely potable.
However, our host thought proper to charge us eight livres, and an
additional one for the servant. I remonstrated of course ; but of what
use are remonstrances when the time taken up is more important than
any abatement they can possibly procure ? Monsieur the unbergiste, being
an excellent proficient in his business, was well aware of this fact, and
therefore prepared, with a volubility entirely his own, to harass and tor-
ment his customers, who, wearied at length with the unavailing contest,
relinquished the point in despair. Our only remedy would have been an
application to a magistrate, who would unquestionably have clipped the.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 47

exuberancy of the bill ; but here delay presented its formidable barrier,
and I was therefore obliged to abandon the conquest, by liquidating the
account.

It may not be amiss to introduce in this place an anecdote, familiar
to Frenchmen, in illustration of this mode of imposition practised by the
inn-keepers upon English travellers. — An English ambassador going
from Paris to Fontainbleau, alighted at an auberge for refreshment ; on
calling for his reckoning he found, to his great surprise, that his host
had charged the enormous sum of a Louis d'or for two eggs ! The am-
bassador naturally remonstrated, and enquired whether eggs were so
scarce in that part of the country as to justify such a charge ? " No,"
replied the honest auhergiste, " eggs are not, but ambassadors are."
Upon this affair being afterwards related at court, it occasioned much
laughter.

Having tamely submitted to be non-suited (you see I have not forgot
the jargon of the courts), we proceeded to the chateau at Vaudreuil,
which had been described to me in terms of the most lavish praise, but
upon inspection I found it to be in ruins. The circumjacent country is
certainly very fine, and the property extensive, but much intersected by
the lands of different owners. Here is plenty of water, which was so
much wanting at the Champ de BataiUe-, but in winter, for want of
drawing, it overflows the whole estate.

We procured some excellent tench and trout fi'om a fisherman ; but
he informed us, that the fisher}^ as well as every other species of game,
had been destroyed by poachers.

I particularly noticed about six acres of ver}'^ fine oats, and heard that
they were computed to bear eighteen quarters to the acre. I \vA\e
known fourteen or fifteen produced in England, and have had a third

48 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

crop valued at thirteen quarters ; but this was the most astonishing growth
I had ever witnessed.

Having sufficient time, we proceeded to the chateau de Marquis de
Conjians, (a relative of the celebrated commander who was defeated
by the English under Admiral Hawke, off Brest, in 1758,) which is
also in ruins. It is surrounded by a river which has the appearance of a
moat, and the grounds are exceedingly formal. A considerable forest
is said to belong to the estate, and indeed such appendages were con-
stantly attached to the domains of persons of rank. It was there they
felt their consequence, while attended by the necessary establishment
for the chase, their favourite diversion. This remark, however, can
only be applied to the old regimi, when the noblesse proudly lorded it
over their subject peasantry.

From Vaudreuil, which is seven miles from Pont de I'Arche, we con-
tinued our route to Louviers,* through a cross-road, but enchanting coun-
try. On our arrival a great concourse of people pressed round the car-
riage, and the landlady-, who said she had for some time expected us,
received her guests with a cordiality which would have proved most
agreeable to me, had I been so circumstanced as to have profited by
her tendresse.

Our road to Evreux ran through a delightfril country, the beauty of
which was increased by a rich valley to the right, consisting chiefly of
meadow-land, the forest scenery being in the first style of magnificence.
This domain is the property of M. Danville, who formerly possessed
some very large estates here, and whose family are still resident on the
spot. From the summit of a steep hill, we had a commanding view of
two fine valleys ; and as we approached Evreux we perceived, at the dis-

' A small town in Normandy where the best cloths are manufactured.

^

\^

J

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SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 49

tance of about three miles, the former residence of the old religious or-
der of the Chartreux, or Carthusian friars. The valley is well adorned
with wood, and the capability of adding a large sheet of water, together
with a neat mansion, unites at once the picturesque and beautiful.

Having put up at Evreux, I immediately waited upon the mayor, M.
Lamadelaine, and, by a veiy curious mistake, delivered into his hands a
letter from the under prefect of Dieppe, which I ought to have delivered
to the prefect of Evreux.

This city, situated about ten or twelve leagues from Rouen, is verj''
extensive, and of great antiquity. The church is a noble edifice, and
under the old r-egimS there were many rich monasteries in the environs.
We visited the college, which is extensive, and contains a capital pic-
ture from the pencil of the celebrated Poussin,* which was presented
by the First Consul to this seminary, in remembrance of that great
artist.

The Archbishop of Narbonne was formerly bishop of this city, from
whence he was removed to the archbishopric of Toulouse, and from
thence to Narbonne. He is at this time in London, among the emi-
grant clergy, and enjoys the sum of 15/. per month, from the munifi-
cence of the English government, besides the assistance he receives
from his nephcAV the Lord Viscount Dillon. This prelate was a dis-
tinguished sporting character, during the period of his prosperity, for

* Poussin was born at Audely in Normandy, in 1594. He was one of the most extraordinary
painters, and his glory would have been unbounded, had he not regarded nature in a secondary
point of view, when put in competition with the performances of the ancients. On Poussin's being
asked how he had carried his art to such perfection, he very modestly replied — " Je n'ai rien neg-
ligi." " I have neglected nothing." He died at Rome in l665, aged seventy-one years. Poussin
painted historical subjects in the grandest style : he was chaste in his colouring, correct in his out-
lines, and sublime in the art of grouping his figures, and producing on the canvass what a poet's
■fancy would picture of the subject which occupied his pencil.

VOL, I. ,H

50 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

which he incurred the censure of the French devotees, such pursuits
being derogatory to the canon of the Romish church.

Having made appUcatioh to see the Chateau de Navarre, we were at-
tended by Monsieur M an advocate, and a gentleman of great in-
formation, who very pohtely offered himself as our escort. The chateau
is about one mile from the town, and was bequeathed by Captain d'Au-
vergne Prince de Bouillon, now a captain in the British navy. The
entrance is strikingly magnificent, and the mansion is very extensive;
but a considerable sum of money must be expended before it could be
rendered even a comfortable residence. There is a very fine orangerie
before the mansion, and a green-house, but the latter is so large that it
destroys the uniforniity of the building.

In the park, and close to the chateau, are a number of farm-houses
which certainly ought to be pulled down. The gardens, which are here
deemed very fine, are divided, by clipped-hedges, into small inclosures,
in the centre of which are several ponds of water of different shapes.
There are also several cascades and jets d'eau, the annual expence of
which is estimated at three hundred pounds, but they are on a very con-
tracted scale, and are in every respect inferior to those at the Duke of
Devonshire's seat at Chatsworth. These, however, with some Chinese
bridges and temples, form the tout ensemble of this much admired garden;
for in the art of disposing ground to produce the best possible effect, the
French are indeed very far behind us. A dull formalitj^, devoid of light
and shade, if I may be alloAved the expression, seems to pervade this
pleasing science. Nature is here distorted by art, and made to produce
shapes, which her own beautiful simplicity never gave birth to; and I
am inclined to think that even the shade of our famous Brown could
not flit amidst such gardens without dismay and horror. Here I can-
not forbear quoting Pope's admirable lines on this subject :—-

X,

^

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 51

To build, to plant, whatever you intend,
To rear the column, or the arch to bend,
To swell the terrace, or to sink the grot,
In all let Nature never be forgot;
But treat the goddess like a modest fair,
Nor overdress, nor leave her wholly bare ;
Let not each beauty ev'ry where be spy'd,
Where half the skill is decently to hide.
He gains all points who pleasingly confounds,
Surprises, varies, and conceals the bounds.
Consult the genius of the place in all.
That tells the waters or to rise or fall j
Or helps th' ambitious hill the heaVns to scale.
Or scoops in circling theatres the vale ;
Calls in the country, catches op'ning glades,
Joins willing woods, and varies shades from shades ;
Now breaks, or now directs, th' intending lines,
Paints as you plant, and as you work designs.

Still follow sense, of ev'ry art the soul,
Parts answering parts shall slide into a whole.
Spontaneous beauties all around advance.
Start ev'n from difficulty, strike from chance :
Nature shall join you; time shall make it grow
A work to wonder at — perhaps a Stow.

Such ideas on gardening never, I believe, obtruded themselves into
the mind of a Frenchman.

The forests are, as usual, magnificent, and M. Le Roy the proprietor,
or rather the possessor, (for in the present unsettled state of France it is
absolutely necessary to make this distinction) very politely invited us to
his house. With respect to game it is all destroyed; and as for fish,
there is not one to be had of a pound weight.

Our next excursion was to the botanical-garden, but in this, as in
every other branch of horticulture, the French are very deficient. The
prefect, however, presented me with a book of the place, and the pro-
fessor, who honoured me with his particular attention, ga^•e me some
letters fco the board of agriculture at Paris. These I deemed a ^^aluable

h2

52 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

acquisition, as the agriculture of France is a subject to which I mean to
bend my serious attention, as well as to the culture of the vineyards,
Mv ramble will be extensiA-e, and, if I can add one no^^el circumstance
to the practice of agriculture, I shall think my researches amply remu-
nerated.

In the evening we left Evtcux, a little disappointed, as I expected to
have found objects sufficiently interesting to have detained me there two
or three days at least. We were also obliged to pass the night in a
wretched inn at Passy, after travelling some miles through a fine open
country, the soil and appearance of which nearly resembled Saffron-
Walden.

On quitting Passy the next morning, we beheld a vineyard for the
first time, and soon after entered a noble forest, cut into ridings, belong-
ing to the estate of Bissy, formerly the property of the Due cle Fenthievre,
one of the naturahzed branches of the family of Louis XIV. But here,
to speak in the language of our inimitable Rowe, —

" Peasants have trod upon the heels of nobles,"

We congratulated ourselves on not having passed that road the pre-
ceding evening, as in case the night had overtaken us, we should cer-
tainly have done so at the risk of our necks, it being almost impassable
even by day.

We came at length to the spot where the chateau once stood. It had
been purchased by some merchants, who quarrelled among themselves,
and pulled the greatest part of it down, but one wing which escaped
their fury was afterwards bought by a merchant of Elboeuf) who is now
repairing it for his own residence. Thus, in a revolution like that of
France, does the property of the nobility pass into the hands of plebeians.
This may, at first sight, appear an evil much to be lamented, but if by

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

53

the revolution the condition of twenty-two miUions of people is ameUo-
rated, and the industrious husbandman is enabled to enjoy the fruits
of his honest labour, the memory of revolutionary enormities will be
forgotten in the substantial benefits accruing to the community at
large.

Under a full assurance that this obsen'^ation will not, in your opinion,
rank me among the friends of that exploded doctrine of equalization,
which has rendered France what it is,

I subscribe myself

Yours, &c.

54 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER V.

Vernon. — Appearance of the Vineyards. — Seat of the Due de Sully. — Chateau
intended for Sale. — Horses of Normandy said to be restive in the Cherry
Season. — Forest of St. Germain. — The Palace. — Conversation tvith an aged
Frenchman respecting the Government. — Remarks on the Agriculture of
France.

MY LORD, St. Germain, July 6, 1802.

J. HE town of Vernon, whence I dated my last communication, is a
beautiful little place in the diocese of E\Teux and generalty of Rouen,
situated at the distance of thirteen leagues from Rouen, and near twenty
from Paris. About a quarter of a mile from the toAvn is a bridge, thrown
across the Seine, and immediately adjoining are several corn-mills, Wliile
the back ground, gradually rising from the water, is richly clothecJ with
sylvan scenery.

Having breakfasted at Vernon, we changed our intention of going to
Tours, and resolved on travelling immediately to Paris. We found the
road extremely pleasant, but the vines had not so luxuriant an appear-
ance as I expected, and the echalas, or white sticks, that support them,
are far from improving the face of the country, as they give the distant
hills an appearance of broken chalky earth ; but when the vines have
grown up so as to conceal them, the country may probably assume a
very different aspect.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 55

I was particularly struck with some woody scenery on the left, consist-
ing of an assemblage of poplars, grouped with some grey willows that
overhung the river, while a number of passing boats contributed to en-
liven and diversify the landscape. On the right was a beautiful vallev,
rising into an amphitheatre on either side, and enriched with some mag-
nificent forest-scenery. Here we quitted our carriage, and strolled up
the bank of the Seine to some fishermen, of whom we purchased half
a dozen perch, weighing about three pounds each.

We changed horses at Bonnerie, and then passed a seat of the cele-
brated Due de Sully., the constant adherent, and faithful minister* of
Henry IV. of France. His attachment to his sovereign in times of the
greatest difficulty was without parallel, if we except his unfeigned lov^
for his country, distracted as he found it at the era of his master's ac-
cession to the throne. With the finances of the kingdom in the most
ruinous condition, the lofty mind of Rosney did not yield to despair.
A thousand difficulties had opposed themselves to Henry's accession,
and a still greater number of intrigues and vexatious circumstances ren-
dered his throne for many years a dubious tenure; but the strict integrity,
military conduct, and prudent counsels of Rosney had placed the diadem
on his head ; and the subsequent services of that tried adherent not only
established him in the regal dignit)% but rendered him the complete
master of his peoples' affections. The abilities of Rosne}" might, in-
deed, be considered as a constellation, which darted a resplendent light
through the thick gloom of the political horizon ; and, however great the
qualifications of the monarch might be, it was to the zeal and fidelity
of this amiable minister that he was chiefly indebted for his final suc-
cess. Henry was perfectly convinced of this, and embraced the earliest

* The name of this great characlcr was Maximilian de Bc'thune, created Marquis of Rosney,
and Duke of Sully.

SQ SPORTING TOUR TlHROUGH FRANCE.

opportunity of testifying his gratitude and aflPection. He created Ros-
ney Due de Sully, and conferred upon him an estate to a very large
amount; and even to the present day, the name of the adored prince
is never mentioned, but that of Rosney becomes also the theme of pa-
negjTric.

I shall not frequently have occasion to trouble you with observations
of this nature ; but a Henry IV, and a Due de Sully are characters very
rarely to be found, and it is but justice to commemorate their virtues
whenever an opportunity presents itself

After passing the chateau La Roche de Jenor, and taking a view of the
mount, we were again entertained with some beautiful scenery on the bank
of the Seine, comprising the chateau of Monsieur Tallerand Peregord, and,
almost embosomed in a fine wood, that of M. de Vande Morrell. This
last estate was intended for sale, but the landlord was so exceedingly
stupid, that I could not, for some time, comprehend his description of
the place. By dint of questioning, however, I could just understand,
that there was a fine park, with extensive woods ; and all, as he said, to
be sold for one thousand Louis. But this must have been an error, as
the house alone was worth ten times that sum.

We again changed horses, and re-crossed the Seine, the course of
the river having been turned. This, however, did" not appear very won-
derful, for it is certainly much easier to alter the current of a river, than
to bring about a revolution like that of France, where custom, and the
most profound veneration for the person of the reigning prince, seemed
to have established monarchy on a firm and impregnable basis. But if
I thus digress, I shall never get to Paris, although I am rapidly approach
ing that gay metropolis.

Pursuing the course of the Seine, we kept in view a well-cultivated
valley, of about three miles in width. Some large uninclosed tracts of

^

N

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. .57

land occasionallj^ obtruded themselves, but the remaining part of the
country was laid out in corn-fields, and the sides of the hills were orna-
mented with a variety of chutecms, shaded by surrounding forests. It is,
indeed, impossible to give a complete description of the scenery through
which we passed, where nature and cultivation seemed to go hand in
hand to render the picture more interesting and complete.

Having changed horses at B , one of the Norman relays became

rather ungovernable, and alarmed Mrs. T very much. The driver

said, this was always the case, more or less, during the cherry season ;
and it must be acknowledged, if that assertion Avere true, there were
cherries enough to make all the horses in the country frisky, as the ti-ees
which grow on each side the road were loaded with that fruit. As they
are of the same species with our Kentish chemes, the}'^ are called cerriea
Anglois, and are sold at the rate of a hal^enny per pound, French
weight, which is equal to a pound and a half English.

We next arrived at a bridge Avhich is peculiarly interesting from the
situation in which it is placed. To the right appears an extensive suc-
cession of forest-scenery, diversified with chateaus, all built of stone,
Avhich, at a distance, assume the appearance of rocks, while the Seine
beautifully meanders through an adjacent valley. To the left appears
an expanded plain, with the river, which continually catches the eye,
reflecting the beams of an unclouded sun, whilst a great number of
towns, some of them of considerable magnitude, appear in front. The
most prominent feature, however, is the forest of St. Germain, famous
for the amusements of the chase which it afforded the kings of France,
while that country could boast of kings. This celebrated forest is cut
into rides, or green allees, three miles in length. The ground is too flat
to give an air of grandeur to the scenery ; but, speaking as a ^ortsman,
that circumstance contributes to its real excellence, as the flatter the

VOL. I. I

58 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

country the better for the chase. The First Consul has lately taken this
forest under his special protection, and, as the game, which was almost
extirpated during the revolution, is now replenishing, it will probably
soon resume its ancient celebrity.

We arrived at St. Gel-main about fne o'clock, and found the town,
which is four leagues from Paris, superior to any we had hitherto seen
in France, being entirely built of white stone. We dined at a beautiful
inn called the Grand Cerf, and were glad to retire early to rest. This
place is particularly worthy the notice of strangers, as having been the
birth-place of Louis XIV, and the residence of James II. after his ab-
dication of the throne of England.

The morning proving fme, we took an early breakfast, that we might
have leisure to visit those places worthy of inspection. The palace is a
grand pile of building, but, being converted into barracks, it is now con-
siderably out of repair, although there are still many vestiges of its pris-
tine magnificence. Most of the windows are broken, and the words
liberty and equality are \ATitten every where on the walls: on those
very walls which once formed the habitation of despotic power. How
the Goddess of Liberty likes her present residence in France, I have
not leisure to examine. England, you know, she has long made the
place of her favourite sejour; but if our Gallic neighbours have not de-
coyed her away, they have, at least, set up her representative.

I must not omit mentioning the terrace, Avhich commands a most
sublime prospect; nor could I avoid recalling to my recollection the late
unfortunate inhabitants of the sumptuous palace. The contemplation
was unpleasant, and my spirits became still more depressed by a short
conversation which took place between myself and our grey-headed con-
ductor, lie gave us to understand, that the remembrance of their de-
capitated master still reigned in the hearts of the inhabitants. He also

'^rr^. ^

58 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRA^X■E.

country the better for the chase. The First Consul has lately taken this
forest under his special protection, and, as the game, which was almost
extirpated during the revolution, is now replenishing, it will probably
soon resume its ancient celebrity.

We arrived at St. Gel-main about {\xe o'clock, and found the town,
which is four leagues from Paris, superior to any Ave had hitherto seen
in France, being entirely built of Avhite stone. We dined at a beautiful
inn called the Grand Cerf, and were glad to retire early to rest. This
place is particularly worthy the notice of strangers, as having been the
birth-place of Louis XIV. and the residence of James II. after his ab-
dication of the throne of England.

The morning proving fine, we took an early breakfast, that we might
have leisure to visit those places worthy of inspection. The palace is a
grand pile of building, but, being converted into barracks, it is now con-
siderably out of repair, although there are still many vestiges of its pris-
tine magnificence. Most of the windows are broken, and the words
liberty and equality are \mtten every where on the walls: on those
ver}^ walls which once formed the habitation of despotic power. How
the Goddess of Liberty likes her present residence in France, I have
not leisure to examine. England, you know, she has long made the
place of her favourite sejour\ but if our Gallic neighbours have not de-
coyed her away, they have, at least, set up her representative.

I must not omit mentioning the terrace, Avhich commands a most
sublime prospect; nor could I avoid recalling to my recollection the late
unfortunate inhabitants of the sumptuous palace. The contemplation
was unpleasant, and my spirits became still more depressed by a short
conversation which took place between myself and our grey-headed con-
ductor. He gave us to understand, that the remembrance of their de-
capitated master still reigned in the hearts of the inhabitants. He also

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y^/mi fk '^^M/-€ (/ f/i/. _^7j:i/aiY^ at ,^:^ Y/^y9-mJi^y/u .

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 59

complained much of the existing government, in consequence of ^^hicli
(though naturally averse to argue any point with persons of his descrip-
tion) I requested to know his reasons for thinking as he did ? He replied,
that bread was so dear. — " But, my worthy citizen," said I, " can the
First Consul command the seasons ?" — " Monsieur," said the old man,
while the tears trickled down his cheeks, " Vous avez raison, je vols que
fai eu tort." I gave him a trifling present, and we parted, probably
never to meet again,

I must observe, that the chief consul has hunted four or five times at
St. Germain. But, as the stags are yet very scarce, he comes privately,
and amuses himself, attended only by four or five general officers. He
always rides very hard, and is particularly fond of horses.

As I am now about to bid adieu to rural scenery, and on the point of
entering Paris, I shall close this letter with a few observations, which I
have been enabled to make in the preceding part of my journey.

It has invariably appeared to me, that poor land in England is, in
general, the best cultivated. In France, however, this is not the case,
where attention to the farm is proportioned to the goodness of the soil.
Perhaps the vast population of the country. Math the necessity of not
trusting to a precarious supply, has induced the French agriculturists to
bestow their chief attention on that soil, from which they are confident
of deriving a certain crop : but this error is too obvious to require any
refutation. It must, indeed, be acknowledged, that the cultiAation of
an ungrateful soil presents a thousand difficulties; but experience has
convinced our English farmers, that, in the end, both the labour and
expence are amply compensated. The French farmers are ever anxious
to make the land produce as much wheat and rye as possible, and hence
arise their erroneous opinions on this subject ; for it does not follow-, that

I 2

60 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the more wheat is sown, the more will be reaped ; but it is a known fact,
that an acre of ground, if kept properly stocked with cattle, will yield
more if sown only once in four years, than it would do by being sown
every year, Avithout this necessary attention.

If the cultivation of a farm be changed, in expectation of a rise in
any particular grain, it will seldom be found to answer the farmer's ex-
pectation. A regular economy in farming is as necessary as in any
thing else; and, although the hopes of immediate profit may dazzle
the projector, a deviation from that regularity will assuredly terminate
in disappointment.

If a country be rich and populous, it can never want bread, except
through the errors of the existing government. The hand of power
need not encourage what must be the genuine offspring of free and un-
fettered inclination. The great culture of rye in France, and that even
in the richest provinces, is a gross absurdity; for, throughout the coun-
try, there is hardl}^ any soil so bad as to demand rye, the land being, for
the most part, good enough for the cultivation of wheat.

It is, however, a matter of surprise, that a country so large and po-
pulous as France, should produce grain sufficient for its inhabitants,
when we consider the prodigious extent of its forests, the spacious tracts
occupied by the vine, and the prodigious quantity of waste land that
may be seen in many of the provinces.

I have thrown these loose remarks together as the result of my cursory
observations ; and, knowing your partiality for every thing belonging to
agriculture, I now submit them to j'our consideration.

To-morrow I propose being in Paris, and when I shall have looked
sufficiently about that metropolis to enable me to communicate the result
of my remarks, you shall again hear from me. It is true I have been

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

61

there before, but many years have since elapsed, and such changes have
taken place as will, probably, render the scene entirely new. How-
ever, let cities and governments vary their aspects as they may, I shall
ever subscribe myself.

Yours, &c.

62 JSPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER VI.

View of Versailles. — Palace, Gardens, and celebrated JVater-JVorks of Marly.
Palace of Versailles — A curious Table formed of a single Plank of Vine —
Orange Trees of a prodigious Size and Age — Anecdote of the Duchess of
'Burgundy. — Introduction to General Beaumotit. — The School of the Manege
— General Fault in Shoeing Horses. — Divisions of the Palace — Sporting
Subjects, painted for the late King — Singular Custom observed with respect
to Visitants. — The Manifactory of Fire- Arms — Enorynous Prices given for
Guns and Pistols — Interviezo xvith the Director of the Manufactory, and
subsequent Trials of Guns — Superiority of the English Manufactures —
Place appointed for^ such Experiments. — Arrival at Paris. — Skettles, a fa-
vourite Recreation among French Officers.

MY LORD, Paris, July 11, 1802.

JVIY last letter contained an assurance that you should hear from me
soon after my arrival at this city, and I claim some merit in thus punc-
tually performing my promise ; at the same time begging leaA'e to re-
mind you that I am as anxious to hear from my friends in England as
they can possibly be to receive letters from me. However, as I shall
now be stationary for a little time, I hope to have no cause of complaint
on this head in future.

On our departure from St. Germain, we ascended the hill of Marly,
and were gratified with the view of Versailles, which, from this emi-
nence, appears a considerable town, ])roudly exposing itself to the ad-

mi'

^

-N

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 63

miration of the spectator. Formerly an avenue of stately trees rendered
the approach to it peculiarly pleasant; but these have all been felled
during the revolution, and the white straight road is, by no means, an
agreeable object.

Contiguous to Versailles is the palace of Marly, with its extensive gar-
dens, lately purchased by a Parisian banker. This estate, under the old
regime, was ornamented Avith every thing that taste and art could pro-
duce. On an arm of the Seine, between Marly and the village La
Chaiisee, stands the celebrated reservoir, which, by the constant work-
ing of seventy-nine pumps, forces the water, through iron tubes, into
another reservoir at De Lucienne, whence it is carried by the great
aqueduct to Versailles, La Butte, Roquencourt, Chevreloup, and Trianon.

The entrance into Versailles is very magnificent, the streets being
wide, uniform, and well watered from the above-mentioned aqueduct.

We drove to a good hotel, and were conducted into a pleasant room,
commanding a view of the garden, where several parties were at break-
fast under a tent. The people of the house proposed that we should
take our repast in the same manner; but Mrs. T — being in her travel-
ling dress, and both of us completely covered with dust, we preferred a
private apartment.

The palace of Versailles is an immense building, but its parts are so
inharmonious, that Peter the Great of Russia is said to have compared
it to a pigeon, whose wings were larger than its body. The garden fi'ont
is, in my opinion, by far the most elegant, and certainly the most mo-
dern. The gardens, in the opinion of the French, are exceedingly
fine ; but the tiresome formality which pervades every pai't, is only cal-
culated to fatigue the eye of a spectator, who is aware that the true
beauty of horticulture consists in its approximation to the rich luxuriance
of nature.

64 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The greatest curiositj^ shown in these gardens is a table, formed from
the single plank of a vine, the diameter of which measures, to the best
of my recollection, two feet and a half This object I had previously
heard mentioned by my friends. Generals Behague and Priero, who
were the constant attendants of the late king in all his sporting amuse-
ments.

In the 07-angerle are several orange and lemon-trees of a prodigious
size, with their ages marked on small tablets : one of them, called Le
Grand Bourbon, is said to have been brought from Italy by that polished
monarch, Francis the First; and our guide assured us it was four hun-
dred years old. This, and many of the trees, are certainly of great
age, and extraordinary dimensions ; but, as to the correctness of the
dates affixed to them, some doubt may be very justly entertained.

I have only to add, that a series of Jets d'eaux, statues, long straight
walks, and clipped hedges, present themselves in every direction, and
may suffice to complete my picture of these famous gardens.

With respect to the beautiful statues on the side of the park, the fol-
lowing anecdote may be worthy of ^lotice, as it shows, that even in the
time of the bigotted Louis XIV. gallantry prevailed at his court. The
amiable Duchess of Burgundy, a princess of the blood, observing, that
the natural parts of the statues were covered with laurel leaves, wittily
remarked, Elles seront heaucoup plus belles a la chute des feuilles.

As it was too late in the day to examine the interior of the palace, I
waited upon General Beaumont, whose family are numbered with the
best sportsmen in France, and who is now gOA^ernor of Versailles.
Having sent up my letter of introduction, I very fortunately met with
the general's brother, whom, according to my original plan, I had in-
tended visiting in Touraine, and from his seat I should then have pro-
ceeded to Paris; but the delays I experienced on the road had, very

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 65

luckily prevented my carrying that scheme into execution, by which
means I saved myself a circuit of two hundred and forty miles.

Having accepted an invitation to dinner, I entered into conversation
on the sports of the field ; and the party present accompanied me to sup-
per at my hotel, after which Ave retired very early to rest, according to
the prevailing custom in France.

Next morning I went with the general and his brother to inspect the
school of the Manege, which is under the direction of government. The
different exercises took up nearly two hours, and the professor and sub-
professor, in compliment to me, ordered out four of their most capital
horses, which were worked for about half an hour. These animals
seem all well adapted to the purpose, being rather under fifteen hands ;
but the crack-horse, which is half Arabian and half Limousin, (his dam
being a Limousin mare) is full fifteen hands high. Two officers from
every regiment of cavalry are ordered to attend regularly at this place,
to receive such instructions, both theoretical and practical, as may
enable them to teach their respective corps.

I retired from the manage, fully convinced of the excellency of this
establishment; but I could not refrain from observing, that the very
same fault with respect to shoeing a horse pre^-ails there as well as every
where else. By this I mean, that the person who performs it, never
cuts the toe of the horse short enough, and therefore the consequent
contraction of the heel occasions the animal's tripping.

We next proceeded to the palace, which we saw to the greatest ad-
vantage, as General Beaumont had a private key, which procured us
immediate admittance.

So much has been written on the subject of this palace, that I should
certainly pass over the description in silence, weie I not apprehensive
that you might ascribe to indolence what really arises from a con-s iction

VOL. I. K

66

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

of my incapacit)'^. I shall, however, venture to make a few observa-
tions, that I may not put you out of temper.

When Louis XIV. first thought of erecting this palace, there was no
other than a small chateau, which had been built by Louis XIII. for
the purposes of a hunting-seat : but that was taken down, and the plan
of the present edifice laid, the subsequent divisions of which may be
said to have belonged exclusively to the king and his royal suit : —

The great stables
The little do.
The front court-yard
The great do.
The chateau

The little court-yard of the chateau
The baths

Chambers adjoining the baths.
The great stair-case
The state apartments
The chapel.

The cabinet of antiques
The billiard-room
The chamber of Abundance
■ of Venus

The Queen's Cabinet,

The chamber of Mars

— ^^— jSIercurj

Apollo

War

Peace

The great gallery

Apartments of the Dauphin

The guard-room

The great dining-room

The chamber of audience

The king's chamber

The council chamber

The great cabinet

The great gallery and its chambers

The little gallery and its chambers

&C. &G»

Such were the apartments once occupied by the kings of France. — I
leave you, therefore, to conjecture the extent of the whole building-,
with its accommodations, for such a luxurious court, during the days of
monarchy. But, if the structure now creates astonishment, how great
must have been the effect when all its apartments were filled with the
most elaborate sculptures of the ancients, and the sublimest performances
of +he justly celebrated painters of Italy and Flanders !

Among the few paintings which have been suffered to remain, are
some sporting subjects, drawn for the late king; but they fell very short

66

SPORTING TOUR TI^IROUGH FRANCE.

of my incapacit)^ I shall, however, venture to make a few observa-
tions, that I may not put you out of temper.

When Louis XIV. first thought of erecting this palace, there was no
other than a small chateau, which had been built by Louis XIII. for
the purposes of a hunting-seat : but that was taken down, and the plan
of the present edifice laid, the subsequent divisions of which may be
said to have belong^ed exclusively to the king and his royal suit : —

The great stables
The little do.
The front court-yard
The great do.
The chateau

The little court-yard of the chateau
The baths

Chambers adjoining the baths.
The great stair-case
The state apartments
The chapel.

The cabinet of antiques
The billiard-room
The chamber of Abundance
■ of Venus

The chamber of Mars
' -— — Mercury

Apollo

War

Peace

The great gallery

Apartments of the Dauphirt

The guard-room

The great dining-room

I'he chamber of audience

The king's chamber

The council chamber

The great cabinet

The great gallery and its chambers

The little gallery and its chambers

The Queen's Cabinet, &c. &c.

Such were the apartments once occupied by the kings of France. — I
leave you, therefore, to conjecture the extent of the whole building',
with its accommodations, for such a luxurious court, during the days of
monarchy. But, if the structure noAV creates astonishment, how great
must have been the effect when all its apartments were filled with the
most elaborate sculptures of the ancients, and the sublimest performances
of +he justly celebrated painters of Italy and Flanders !

Among the few paintings which have been suffered to remain, are
some sporting subjects, drawn for the late king; but they fell very short

(^ /f/fca// ^/'/" y/rjai///-'.). mw?- f//c ry'rrr//r<'/^

SPORTING TOTJR THROUGH FRANCE. 67

of my expectations, and seemed utterly destitute of the spirit of a Rein-
agle,* a Barrett, a Garrard, and a Gilpin — Stubbs painted animals
before Gilpin, but could not group them with the same success. He
generally finished his pieces too highly, and his trees and back-grounds
were, by no means, deserving of praise ; but Gilpin's Jupiter, and his
Death of the Fox, are certainly unparalleled.

I must not dismiss my account of this palace without noticing a sin-
gular custom observed with respect to all visitants ; which is, that no
gentleman is permitted to enter witli a cane, nor any lady carrying a
parasol.

From hence we proceeded to the manufactory of fire-arms, of which
I had previously heard such representations as absolutely astonished me.
The fabrication of pistols at ten thousand, and guns at fifty thousand
liATCs a piece had been mentioned as no uncommon thing at this place ;
and when I argued on the impossibility of working up fire-arms to this
value, and the little chance of finding purchasers at such extravagant
prices, I was told, that the manufactory was under the patronage of the
First Consul, and that he frequently ordered the most costly pieces, as
presents for foreign princes, or general officers. One gun was produced
which was then completing for the Consul, at the price of eight hun-
dred guineas. The sum was certainly very great, but I remember
receiving a fowling-piece, as a present from Lord Rockingham, which
cost his lordship four hundred guineas, in consequence of my having
killed a sparrow, which had perched on the top of Wentwortli-
House. With respect, however, to some of the enormous prices stated

•This gentleman has added greatly to his reputation, in the execution cf a complete set of correct
and highly-finished paintings of the various species of dogs used in the sports of the field, from
wiich engravings havfi lately been published.

k2

68 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

to be paid for the arms of the Versailles manufactory, I can only say^
that I have heard of them, but how far your credence will extend, must
be left to your own consideration.

I confess that, as a sportsman, I was very anxious to inspect this ma-
nufactory ; and was accordingly introduced to the director and his nu-
merous partners. The superintendant of the guns is the well-known
Boute, and some other person has the department of the pistols. They
observed, that they had heard of the pistols* I had brought over for the
First Consul, and expressed a desire of being indulged with a sight of
them. With this request I readily acquiesced, and had the pleasure of
hearing my intended present spoken of in terms of the highest com-
mendation, by all the directors of the manufactory.

The mounting of their arms at Versailles is certainly excellent, and
the carving of their stocks is most beautifully conceived, and as capitally
executed ; but their barrels are not fitted in that workman-like manner,
which constitutes a striking excellence in the English manufactories.
They are also very inferior to my countrj^men in the art of broAvning,
and in the construction of their locks.

Gratified with the information we had received at this manufactory,
we returned to a dinner, which our landlord had engaged to provide for
eighteen persons, at ten livres per head, the desert 7ion compris. The
repast Avas excellent, and the attendants were particularly civil ; but I could
not help remarking, that although an Englishman is, at first, surprised at
the cheapness of French wines, the frequenting of inns, and the great
quantity there consumed, will soon alter his sentiments on this subject.
. The next morning being appointed for a trial of guns between myself

* The presentation of these pistols will be noticed in the sequel.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 69

and the directors of the manufactory, we met before breakfast, at a place
purposel}^ ada})ted for experiments of that nature. A distance of sixteen
yards was chosen and measured off for pistols, and stone marks were
placed for the feet ; so that it was impossible for the advantage of a
single inch to be taken by either partj^

Mr. G — first tried his pistol, and made two good shots, placing the
ball within an inch of a wafer. He then desired me to make trial with
the same pistol, but as it had a double-hair trigger, to which I had not
been accustomed, it went off before I got it to the mark. Howe^•er,
on its being re-loaded, I placed the ball nearer to the wafer than my
competitor had previously done.

The next trial consisted of two sorts of treble-barrelled pistols, one
of which was on the same principle as those intended for the Consul ;
and they ansAvered at the above distance, so as to hit the iron plate,
which was two feet square.

We then made trial of some guns of the manufactory, and it may be
reasonably supposed, the best Avere selected. I had only brought two
of my own, one of which was my coach-gun, not more than two feet
long; but even this far surpassed those produced by the manufactorj'^.
They made some shots at the distance of ninety-eight yards, but did not
succeed.

It was afterwards agreed to have a full and fair trial of my guns
against the manufactory; and each party was naturally anxious for
success. The Poker, or Buonaparte, as the gun is termed, opened
the ball, and she threw her shot so exactl)^ that the French ad-
mitted, " Utie moiiche ne pouvoit pas Vcchapper"

Theirs in return failed ; after which they assayed about four others.

70 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The next was my air-gun*, at ninety-three yards, against their rifle.
I shot within an inch of their mark, though it was not fully pumped.
The day was extremely sultr}% and yet my next shot was still more
exaet.

* It may not be Improper, in this place, to introduce some account of the air-gun ; which instru-
ment, of the common description, is usually made of brass, and has two barrels; the inside bar-
rel A, fig. 8. which is of a small bore, from whence the bullets are exploded ; and a large barrel
ECDR on the outside of it. There is a syringe SMNP fixed in the stock of the gun, by which the
air is injected into the cavity between the two barrels through the valve EP. The ball K is put
down into its place in the small barrel, with the rammer, as in any other gun. At SL is another
valve, which, being opened by the trigger O, permits the air to come behind the bullet, so as to
drive it out with great force. If this valve be opened and shut suddenly, one charge of condensed
air may be sufficient for several discharges of bullets ; but if the whole air be discharged on one single
bullet, it will drive it out with great force. This discharge is effected by means of a lock, fig. 9-
placed here as usual in other guns; for the trigger being pulled, the cock will go down and drive
the lever O, fig. S. which will open the valve, and let in tlie air upon the bullet K.

Air-guns of late years have received very great improvements in (heir construction. Fig. 1 0. is
a representation of one made by the late IMr. B. Martin of London, and now by several of the ma-
thematical instrument and gun-makers of the metropohs. For simplicity and perfection it exceeds
any other heretofore contrived. A is the gun-barrel, with the lock, stock, ram-rod, and of the size
and weight of a common fowling-piece. Under the lock, at fr, is a round steel tube, having a small
moveable pin in the inside, which is pushed out when the trigger a is pulled, by the spring-work
within the lock ; to this tube 6, a hollow copper-bail c screws, perfectly air-tight. This copper ball
is fully charged with condensed air by the syringe B (fig. 7-) previous to its being applied to the tube
h of fig. 10. It is then evident, if a bullet be rammed down in the barrel, the copper ball screwed
fast at b, and the trigger a be pulled, that the pin in b will, by the action of the spring-work within
the lock, forcibly strike out into the copper ball ; and thereby pushing in suddenly a valve within
the copper ball, let out a portion of the condensed air; which air vi\\\ rush up through the aperture
of the lock, and forcibly act against the bullet, driving it to the distance of 60 or 70 j'ards, or fur-
ther. If the air is strongly condensed at every discharge, only a portion of the air escapes from
the ball ; therefore, by re-cocking the piece, another discharge may be made ; and this repeated to
the amount of 15 or \6 times. An additional barrel is sometimes made, and applied for the dis-
charge of shot, instead of the one above described.

The air in the copper ball is condensed by means of the syringe B (fig. 7.), in the following man-
ner : The ball c is screwed quite close on the top of the syringe at b, at the end of the steel-pointed
rod : a is a stout ring through which passes the rod k : upon this rod the feet should be firmly set ;
then the hands are to be applied to the handles ii, fixed on the side of the barrel of the syringe.
Nov; by moving the barrel B steadily up and down on the rod a, the ball c will become charged with
condensed air ; and it may be easily known when the ball is as full as possible, by the irresistible
action that the air makes against the piston when you are working the syringe. At the end of the

^/^t^i./f ■ a/ Mf K.Z/i/^?'^^^ ^yAA' .

4

J/^^rrf/'/M , Y////^r/Y/f//J .

■y^Jfp.* mS. i^i^^mM^^C* J>t»rn^^t^iSr<

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 71

The next trial was mj^ double rifle against their best single rifle,* which
was, apparently, greatly in their favour, as the sight to a single rifle is far
more accurate. On preparing to re-load, I found that, owing to some
mistake, the loader and the bullet-moulds were either lost or mislaid.
However, some bullets were found to fit, and, after loading with powder
merely by guess, I made eight shots, each sufficient to pierce through a
deer's head, and once even touched the edge of the white.

We had several other trials, both with rifles and air-guns; but the
result afforded a convincing proof of the superiorit}' of the English ma-
nufactures. Several betts were made on this occasion, and General
Beaumont, the appointed judge, decided impartially in favour of mj^
guns ; but, out of respect for the civilities I had received, I ordered a
single and double-barrelled gun of the best make.

rod Tc is usually a four-square hole, which with the rod serves as a key to fasten the ball c fast on
the screw h of the gun and syringe close to the orifice in the ball c. In the inside is (ixed a valve
and spring, which gives way for the admissioaof air; but upon its emission comes close up to the
orifice, shutting up the internal air. The piston-rod works air-tight, by a collar of leather on it,
in the barrel B ; it is therefore plain, when the barrel is drawn up, the air will rush ia at the hole h.
When the barrel is pushed down, the air therein contained will have no other way to pass from the
pressure of the piston but into the ball c at top. The barrel being drawn up, the operation is re-
peated, until the condensation is so strong as to resist the action of the piston.

Sometimes the syringe is applied to the end of the barrel C (see fig. 11,): the lock and trigger
shut up in a brass caserf; and the trigger pulled, or discharge made, bv pulling the chain b. Tn
this contrivance there b a round chamber for the condensed air at the end of the syringe at e, and
it has a valve acting in a similar manner to that of the copper ball. When this instrument is not in
use, the brass case d is made to slide oft', and the instrument then becomes a walking-stick ; from
which circumstance, and the barrel being made of cane, brass, &c. it has received the appellation
of the air-cane. The head of the cane unscrews and takes off at a, where the extremity of the
piston-rod in the barrel is shown: an iron rod is placed in a ring at the end of this, and the air
condensed in the barrel in a similar manner to that of the gun as above ; but its force of action is
not near so strong and permanent as that of the latter.

* This gun was mechanically and beautifully mounted, and very portable, but there were no
good sights. Much was said about this piece, and it was valued at a hundred and fifty guineas,
which sum I agreed to give, provided that, on trial, it should prove superior to mine. The sights
of a single rifle may be easily made correct; but to have two barrels equally good, and the sight to
answer for both, is quite another affair.

72 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The place allotted for these experiments is adjoining the palace, and
immediately opposite is a sheet of water, in the centre of a garden sur-
rounded by high aa alls. The avenue is remarkably handsome, the walls
being clothed with vines, and skirted by espaliers, which are covered
with rose-trees, now in full bloom.

Having receiA^ed fresh letters of recommendation from the Beaumont
famil}^, and one in particular addressed to General Duroc, governor of
the Tuileries, I proceeded towards Paris, and, after changing horses at
a small village, crossed the Seine, which we had so long followed. It
is, in this part, divided by a little island, and has a tolerably pretty ap-
pearance ; but I assure you, neither the river nor the suburbs can be put
in competition with those of London.

I remarked, on passing the Champs Elijsees, that numerous parties of
officers were playing at skettles. I think it would appear rather extra-
ordinary were we to behold our officers of the guards thus amusing them-
selves on the Parade at St. James's. But every nation has some peculiar
customs, and, among the French, this seems to be a favourite recrea-
tion.— " Qui n a point vu Faris, n'a rieti vu," said a Frenchman; and,
in my opinion, there Avas much rationality in the remark, though Lon-
don, in many instances is certainly preferable. Perhaps you may retort
upon me by saying, that I myself fall into the very error I am repre-
hending. Be it so, if you please : nevertheless, Paris is so obviously
changed since my last scjour here, that I really retrace it with great
difficulty.

We alighted at the Hotel des Etrangers, 'Rue de la Concorde, where
we, at present, occupy a suit of apartments, at forty-eight guineas per
month, not superior to those which may be engaged in London for fif-
teen guineas at the utmost.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

73

Having now ushered myself into the capital, I hope you will be
willing to allow me some respite, that I may commence a fresh letter
comme ilfaut, for I assure you that I am now completely jaded.

Feeling as I ever shall, on recurring to my best friends, I conclude,
as usual, with stating, that

I am

Yours, &G.

VOL. I.

74 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER VII.

General Remarh. — Monsieur Perregaux. — Interview with General Duroc. —
Presentation of Pistols, designed for the First Consul. — Particular At-
tention shozvn to Col. T by the Soldiery. — Monsieur Pellerin. — Public

Walks rendered unpleasant by the Dust, and want of Gravel. — Striking
Difference betxveen the Environs of Paris and London — That Difference
accounted for. — Palais Royal. — Riding House. — Site of the Bastille. — Gun-
mahers. — Musee central des Arts. — Improvenmits at the Tuileries — Vene-
tian Horses. — Visit to the Opera — Botanical Garden. — Gobelins Manufac-
tory.— Prince Branisky. — Mess. Ridley and Brandling. — Account of the
Frescati.

MY LORD, Paris, July l6, 1802.

XlAVING now run over that part of France through which English-
men generally travel, it may be expected that I should make some re-
marks on the general face of the country, and the nature of the accom-
modations. I shall merely observe, however, that the roads are, for
the most part, in middling condition, and that, notwithstanding our
carriage was overloaded vnth guns, dogs, imperial, and dickey, ac-
companied with a landaulet, we did not lose even a single nail, in our
journey from Dieppe to this metropolis. With respect to accommoda-
tions, I am happy to say, their general bad character has been almost
obliterated from my mind, by the numerous civilities I have received.
Since I had last the pleasure of addressing you, I waited upon Mon-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 75

sieur Perregaux, a member of the senate, and the principal I^Jinker of
this city, who, you iijust allow, is a very necessary man after a long
journey, and whose behaviour to me was equally polite and attentive.

I then wrote to General Duroc, intimating that I had a letter of re-
commendation from the governor of Versailles, and requesting to know
when I might be permitted to wait upon him. One of his aid-de-camps
came, soon afterward, to my hotel, and informed me that the general
was disengaged, and would be happy to see me either on that or any other
day. I therefore accompanied the officer to the palace of the Tuile-
ries, and was ushered into a sumptuous drawing-room.

In the person of General Duroc I expected to find a man of age and
experience : you may, therefore, form a tolerable idea of my surprise
when I beheld a young man about thirty years of age, richly dressed,
and distinguished by a peculiar suavitj'^ of manners. He is, indeed,
very young for so important a situation as that of governor of the palace,
but his conduct at different courts has established his reputation with the
government, and the First Consul knows how to appreciate superior abi-
lities, for the furtherance of his own views.

After some conversation relative to my friend Beaumont and his intro-
ductory letter, I produced the pistols designed for the First Consul.
The general then enquired the name of my regiment, with the particu-
lars of which I acquainted him, as well as the manner of my quitting
it ; after which we parted, mutually satisfied with each other.

On re-entering my carriage, a particular degree of attention seemed
to be paid me by the soldiers, among whom were some I had previously
seen at Versailles, and who were now examining my armorial bearings,
which have two soldiers of the West York for supporters. It appeared,
that during my interview with General Duroc, my servants had entered

l2

76 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

into conversation with the guards respecting the English miUtia, and had,
by this means, collected a crowd round the carriage. It was sufficiently
obvious, that such reports as were spread among the soldiery respecting
me, would be highly advantageous in such a military country as France.

In a few days I was favoured Avith a letter from General Duroc, con^-
taining the thanks of the First Consul for the pistols, which had been
very graciously accepted ; and also informing me, that both he (the ge-
neral) and Bonaparte, had perused my " Statement of Facts,"* their
strictures upon which I leave to the imagination of your lordship.

I must not omit mentioning, that I have received a visit from Mon-
sieur Pelerin, an officer in the old navy of France, who having been
taken prisoner by the English, resided with my father at Thornville,
during the war of 1759. He received my compliments with unaffected
cordiality, and gave a melancholy account of some of my old friends,
as we strolled about the gardens of the Tuileries. These gardens have
one great fault, the want of gravel; and this may be justly complained
of, in all the pleasure-grounds in the vicinity of Paris. The dust also,
when agitated by the least breath of wind, is almost insupportable, and
every apartment is literally covered with it, notwithstanding the streets
are tolerably well watered.

Considering myself in the neighbourhood of so great a capital as
Paris, it had struck me as something singular, that on the road from
Versailles, we saw nothing of that hurry and bustle which characterize
a near approach to London. On the contrary, we met but a few com-
mon stage-carriages, and not a single private one. This is a proud con-
sideration for Englishmen, whose trade and commerce (those sources of
opulence, which every where meet the eye near our capital,) give
us a decided superiority over the other nations of Europe. The com-

* See note in p.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 77

merce and the trade of France is very far behind that of England, but to
this many circumstances have contributed. Under the old regime the
noblesse, who constituted an immense part of the communitj^ consi-
dered mercantile employments as derogatory to their dignity ; trade of
every description was despised by those who possessed the best means of
entering upon speculations ; and a military or clerical life formed the
only career of all the younger branches of families of condition. In
England, a different line of conduct, and opposite opinions have pro-
duced a prodigious accumulation of wealth ; and thus the resources of
government are drawn fi'om an inexhaustible fountain. In France very
different consequences were produced even under the most flourishing
reigns, and the dreadful effects of the revolution may be said to have
almost annihilated that commerce of which the French were previously
in possession. On a calm contemplation of these points, therefore, I
perceive I had no reason to be surprised at the different appearance of
the roads from Versailles to Paris, and between Brentford and London.
The weather being particularly inviting, we went to the Palais Royal,
the superb residence of the late Due de Orleans. This immense edifice,
originally founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 16^9, is built in the form of
a parallelogram, supported by pillars, and enclosing a large garden,
where the Parisians may be seen sauntering about the walks, or taking
lemonade and other refreshments, on the seats which are provided for
their accommodation. On the ground-floor, under the piazzas, are shops
of jewellery, millinery, mantua-makers, print-sellers, watch-makers,
china-men, booksellers, and restaurateurs, which are crowded with
loungers of every description, and fitted up with the most attractive ele-
gance. There are, also, contained within this building two theatres, the
hall of the tribunate, ball-rooms, billiard-rooms, coffee-houses, and gam-
ing-houses, all of \vhich open into the gardens, and are illuminated

78 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

every evening with a profusion of lamps and lustres. The concourse of
people constantly attendant at this place consists, for the most part, of
money-changers, stock-jobbers, professed gamblers, and adventurers of
every description ; and the votaries of the Cyprian goddess are so nume-
rous, that it is almost impossible for a modest woman to show herself, if
unprotected, even by day-light. I was informed that this structure did
not answer the builder's expectation, never having paid him two and a
half per cent for his money.

From thence we rambled to the riding-house, whimsically orna-
mented with Al Fresco paintings ; and then visited the site of the Bas-
tille, formerly the terrific engine of despotic power, but now converted
into a wood-yard, whence the citizens are supplied with fuel. The hor-
rid sufferings of its devoted victims, with their solitary and protracted
confinement, are still loudly execrated, whenever this place becomes the
topic of conversation ; but it is necessary to receive such accounts with
caution, as many of them may have been greatly exaggerated by the
prejudices of the populace. It is almost impossible for a stranger to
contemplate this spot without feeling emotions which are much easief
conceived than described, but the Parisians now pass by with the most
Tperkct sang-froid, as an object no longer worthy of attention. The dust
in this quarter is so overwhelming, as to render it almost impossible to
visit the place without a carriage; but the inhabitants appear totally
regardless of this inconvenience, and remind one of the adage, that
" custom will reconcile to any thing."

We next paid a visit to the shops of several gun-makers, and, among
the rest, to that of Mr. Page, a sensible and steady man, who readily
acknowledged his work inferior, vnth respect to its appearance, to that
of the Versailles manufactory ; but he said, although their pieces were
more highly finished, they were only calculated for show, and not for a

SPORTING TTOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 79

true sportsman. I remarked, on this occasion, that the guns of Paris
are made stronger than formerly, and consequently much safer. The
best workman in this branch is the well-kno^vn Le Clerc, of the Ver-
sailles manufactory, and as they are known to have collected all the best
hands in Paris, they must necessarily excel. I understand they have a
manufactory at Rouen for shot equal to our patent ; but their powder is
said to be two degrees behind ours, and their flints are also very in-
ferior.

Next morning we proceeded to inspect the museum, or, as it is here
called, the Musee central des Arts, which is situated in the Louvre, and
consists of so magnificent a collection, that, if there were no other in-
ducement for a man to visit Paris, this would alone compensate for the
trouble and expense of a trip from London. The room, or gallery it-
se\f, is calculated to strike a spectator with astonishment, being one
thousand and ninety-five feet long, and the exquisite paintings which
every where present themselves impress the contemplative mind with
sensations altogether indescribable. Some future letter may, probably,
contain an account of these sublime efforts of genius ; but, at present,
I shall merely observe, that the subjects are as interesting as the per-
formances are excellent : so true is the observation of Hay ley,

" How oft we find that when, with noblest aim,
The glowing artist gains the heights of fame,
To the well-chosen theme he chiefly owes
That praise which judgment with delight bestows.
The lyre and pencil both this truth confess,
The happy subject forms their full success."

The palace of the Tuileries has not undergone any very material
alteration except in the grand facade opposite la Place de Carousel.
This is certainly much improved, and when the projected alterations
shall be completed, it will be magnificent beyond conception.

80 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

In consequence of the removal of a number of small houses, that
formerly surrounded the palace, we plainly beheld the gallery of the
Louvre, forming the noble angle of the court-yard, in which the First
Consul reviews his troops. The court itself is separated from the street
by a handsome iron-railing, and the gates are ornamented with the ce-
lebrated Venetian horses. But in these statues, which had been held
out to me as the ne plus ultra of art, I was much disappointed ; for,
instead of displaying such superior excellence, they are, in my
humble opinion, very indifferently executed, when put in competition
with tlie models of Mr. Gan-ard, at his exhibition, in George Street,
Hanover Square : and hence it appears evident, that however the an-
cient painters and sculptors might excel in their imitations of the human
form, they are surpassed by the moderns in the delineation of the ani-
mal part of the creation.

The Venetian horses are said to have been cast by Lysippus of
Rhodes, in the time of Alexander. On the founding of Constantino-
ple they were carried thither, and attached to the chariot of the sun in
the hippodrome; and when that capital fell into the hands of the Ve-
netians about the year 1206, they were carried off by the victors, and
placed over the great entrance of the church of St. Mark at Venice.
They afterwards became the property of the French republicans, and
assumed their present station on the portals facing the Carousel.

It is necessary to add, that the opening in this part is already consi-
derably extended, and when the plans of government are finally com-
pleted, by clearing away every obstacle that separates the Louvre from
the Tuileries, the residence of the First Consul will, unquestionably,
exceed every other palace of Europe. It is with reluctance that I now
take leave of this palace, and the splendid repository of the arts ; but
shall, hereafter, resume it on a more enlarged scale.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 81

In the evening we went to the opera, being accommodated with an
excellent box. The theatre appeared well proportioned, and elegantly
fitted up; and the orators were justly entitled to the attention thej' re-
ceived. One in particular was very deservedly distinguished by the
plaudits of the spectators, and, for my own part, I have been seldom
more agreeably amused at a public entertainment of this description.

The ensuing morning we went to the botanical garden, originally
founded by Buffon, and considered as one of the most interesting objects
in Paris. This garden is very extensive, well laid out, and stocked with
a profusion of curious and exotic plants, all of which are labelled for the
improvement of students and the information of visitors. Here also are
some extensive hot-houses and green-houses, and a menagerie, or collec-
tion of foreign animals. In an adjoining park we saw some fine fallow
deer, and a beautiful bull and cow of the Afi-ican breed; and I particu-
larly noticed some large experimental bee-hives, which, however, did
not appear so good as either Mr. Wildman's, or those at Thornville
Royal.

A heavy rain compelling us to leave this place sooner than we had
intended, we drove to the Gobelin's manufactory, which is carried on
in an edifice situate in a distant part of the Fauxbourg St. Germain.
This building was purchased by the great minister Colbert, for the pur-
poses of dying wool, and making tapestry ; and the establishment was
afterwards sanctioned by an edict of Louis the Fourteenth, who deemed
it worthy his royal patronage. It made but slow advances, even when
assisted in the most liberal manner ; and the late revolution has injured
it very materially, by calling many of its ablest artists from their employ-
ment. The chief consul, however, has now taken it under his protec-
tion, and most of its present productions are intended to adorn his resi-
dence at St. Cloud.

VOL. I. M

82 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The tapestry here manufactured is certainly very beautiful, but not
commensurate to its extravagant price. I purchased a small specimen,
as a present for the best of mothers, which proA^ed very expensive.

There are about a hundred persons employed in this manufactory,
and it is really surprising to observe with what apparent facility they exe-
cute the most difficult parts of the workmanship ; but, to arrive at any
degree of perfection, occupies a period of eighteen years, six of which
are set apart for the customary apprenticeship. The workmen are under
the constant superintendance of the police, but their situation is greatly
ameliorated, for under the old regim^ they were never permitted to quit
the manufactory, lest they should divulge that curious art, which was,
in fact, the cause of their perpetual imprisonment. We finished this
excursion by proceeding along the South Boulevards, and then returning
to dinner.

Part of the ensuing day was devoted to some visits of form, and,
among others, I waited upon the Polish prince, Branitsky, whom I had
the honour to be acquainted with during his residence in London ; and,
from the opportunities I then had of conversing with him, as well as from
our renewed intimacy here, I consider myself greatly benefited by his
society. He is a man of superior taste, and much attached to mecha-
nism. His carriages are contrived upon principles resulting from his
favourite study, and he expressed his disapprobation of the fire-arms of
Versailles, some of which he had recently purchased.

After these ceremonious calls, I returned to meet Sir James Fitzge-
rald, Mr. Ridley, son of Sir Matthew White Ridley, M. P. and Mr.
Edward Brandling, son of Mr. Brandling, of Gosport, member of
Parliament, who being on the same floor in our hotel, had become ac-
quainted with us, and had agreed to my proposal of dining alternately with

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 8.3

€ach other during our stay at Paris, Nothing could have been more de-
sirable than the addition of these gentlemen to our party, as in them we
found men very different from those wild, giddy, and unthinking spend-
thrifts, who are not overburdened with sense themselves, nor willing to
receive information from others.

In the course of conversation I found, that these gentlemen intended
to take different routes on their departure from the capital ; Mr. Ridley
purposing to go to Bologna, and Mr. Brandling to Geneva. I now
stated, that a certain artist \^'ho had left the country rather abruptly, and
had taken with him a miniature of mine, and some articles belonging to
my lady, was supposed to have gone to Geneva, upon which Mr. Brand-
ling politely offered to carry a letter to him, and receive the portrait.

After dinner I went to the Phantasmagoria, and the Frescati, the lat-
ter of which is situated in the Italian Boulevard, and consists of a large
house and a small garden, which were illuminated for the first time this
season. The Frescati is the favourite resort of the best company in
Paris. The walls of the apartments are painted with Italian landscapes,
and decorated with a profiasion of lustres and pier-glasses, while innume-
rable lights and festoons of artificial flowers augment the splendor and
gaiety of the scene. The place, altogether, is certainly prxtty — an ex-
pression the best adapted to convey my ideas concerning it. The amuse-
ments consist in walking about, and holding that general conversation
with one's acquaintance which is common in all public places. The
usual refreshments are tea, lemonade, punch, ices, and cakes, the pro-
fits of which constitute the only advantage to the proprietor, no money
being asked or expected for admittance.

I remarked one very disagreeable circumstance in this place, namely,
the overpowering smells of brandy, rum, and other spirituous liquors,
which are not at all calculated to impress a stranger with an idea of his

M 2

84 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

being at a promenade of the heau monde. I was, however, fully assured
it was so, by meeting some of the most respectable families of my ac-
quaintance, and particularly a d-devant comtesse, who is knoAvn to pique
herself on every punctilio of etiquette, and who assured me " Que toute
la bonne compagnie y allait."

I was induced to look at the rooms set apart for play, in one of which
rouge et nair attracted my attention. I remained a silent spectator for
a considerable time, though profiting but little fi-om my attention ; and
firmly resisted some pressing invitations to take an active part, although
the loss of a few thousands might, probably, have initiated me into the
mysteries of the game.

The Frescati must certainly be acknowledged to abound in the agree-
able, and, to use a French expression, " On pent hien s'y distraire," as
I must, in the present instance by abandoning my pen for the irresistible
fascination of sleep.

Adieu

Yours, &c.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER VIII.

Excursion to Ermenonville. — Rye Harvest. — Triennial draining of JVater. —
Jean Jacques Rousseau. — The Hermitage. — Ermenonville. — Hunting Party.
Pont Chartrain — Generals Moreau and Macdonald. — Hunting Roe-buck. —
Observations on trying for Game. — English Toasts difficult to be explained to
the French Ladies. — Madame Moreau. — Mrs. Macdonald. — Tea introduced at
Midnight. — Extensive Estates of M. dEtallier. — Fi-ance ivell adapted for
the Joys of the Chase. — Grosbois, the late Seat of General Moreau.

MY LORD, Paris, July 22, 1802.

I RECEIVED your very kind letter, and really blush at my inability
to substantiate the praises therein lavished on my epistolary communica-
tions. Such as they are, however, I shall regularly continue, and if
they afford j'^ou but a trifling portion of that pleasure which I could wish
to impart, my design will be fully answered.

My friends Brandling and Ridley having proposed an excursion into
the country, we agreed on a trip to Ermenonville, the famih^ seat of the
Montmorencies, said to be worth sixty thousand pounds per annum;
and, indeed, when I reflect on the immense possessions formerly held
by that family, I cannot doubt the veracity of this statement.

A few flying showers, having laid the dust, rendered our ride peculiarly
pleasant, and the sun breaking forth in unsullied majesty soon after our
departure from Paris, we were greeted with an enchanting view of the

:85 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

rural scenery, rendered still more interesting by the cheerful appearance
of the reapers, who were binding up their rye in sheaves, and beguiling
the hours of labour with their festal songs. Here, indeed, one miglit
justly exclainij

*' Her imperial bouquet Nature yields.
Unboundedly kind from her hand,
The pomp of the groves and the fields
Shed cheerfulness over the land."

After proceeding about eight or nine miles, I observed a very fine
sheet of water, formerly tlie property of the Prince of Conde, but since
transferred into the hands of a baker ! Such are the strange vicissitudes
produced by a revolution. On making enquiry, I was told there were
plenty of fish ; the water appeared very clear, which was accounted for
by its being usually drained once in three years, when the produce
yielded about four hundred pounds, and that some of the finest fish sold
for three Louis. On the veracity of this information I did not place much
reliance, but the custom of triennial draining is very common in many
places, and on such occasions it is usual to measure the fish from fork
to eye, that those under a certain length may be thrown in again for
stock.

We passed a handsome chateau, the property of Monsieur Camus, and
ascended a steep hill which led to an auherge. Here we enquired for the
grand chateau, but were given to understand tliat we had passed it, and
that, notwithstanding it was to be sold, we should probably find it diffi-
cult to obtain admission. However I resolved to go, and accordingly
engaged a little boy as our guide.

The name of Jean Jacques Rousseau happening to come upon the
tapis; I found that he had formerly resided at Ermenonville, near the
town of Montmorenci, where he died on the 2d of July, 1788, and that

?1?

^
^

^

•I

s

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE,. 87

it would not be greatly out of ouk way to pay a visit to his tomb. Hav-
ing made some farther enquiries respecting the spot where had been de-
posited the remains of this child of nature, we set off, and soon arrived
at a neat small house called the Hermitage; situate on a little island
denominated L'Isle des Peupliers, where we understand Jean Jacques
had resided. The path to this mansion lay through some beautiful
groves of chesnut and cherry-trees, some of them of the Bigeron kind,
which is the chief produce of the long and fertile valley of Montmo-
renci.*

The memory of Rousseau -f- is preserved in the hermitage by a bust
of blue marble,^ on which is engraven his favourite motto, " Vitam im-

* In the year l6<)0, Louis XIV. changed the name of Montmorenci into that of Enghein, and'
gave it to the use of the Prince of Conde. The last possessor was the late unfortunate Duke
d'Enghein. The name of the small town formerly called Montmorenci, situate on a hill on one
side of the valley, was changed into that of Emile by the National Convention, in honour of Rous-
seau, who, under that name, had published his famous treatise on education.

t The manner of conducting the remains of this extraordinary man from Ermenonville to Paris i»
thus beautifully described by Mercier —

" The air was calm, the sky serene ; a long curtain of purple veiled the setting sun at the hori-
zon 'r a light breeze agitated gently the last leaves.

" The sounds of simple and plaintive music were heard at a distance. A crowd of citizens joined
the procession. Every heart palpitated with joy.

" The funeral car entered with majestic solemnity. A numerous band of youth followed in re-
spectful silence. The symphqnist left a short interval betwee'^ .ch air, in order that every one
might join in the chorus.

" The favourite airs of the man of nature being sung, it might have been said, that angels de-
scending to earth were come to transport him to heaven amidst their celestial concerts.

" The procession stopt at the bason which represented the Isle of Poplars. It received the tears of
the spectators, who thought of Julia, Sophia, and Warens, so tenderly, so constantly beloved by
her adopted son. Every eye was fixed on the coffin, laid on a platform, and covered with a blue
cloth sown With stars. The glory of the great man pierced through the darkness of death ; he seemed
still tu exist.

" A thousand flambeaux lighted this affecting ceremony, and the obsequies were terminated by
the air, — " Dans ma cabane obscure,"

" And every one withdrew singing it in a plaintive tone."

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

pendere vero," to which is added the following epitaph : — " Ici repose
r/iomme de la nature, et de la verite. Having contemplated this bust,
and the chamber which Rousseau usually occupied, we returned thanks
to the present inhabitant of the premises, and proceeded towards the
grand chateau, the original object of our enquiry.

Soon after leaving the Hermitage, we were accosted by a beautiful
country girl, who, with all that ease and gaiety so natural to the French
character, offered us some excellent cherries, which it was impossible to
refuse. After walking some time, we arrived at the gates of the chateau,
but we found it impossible to obtain admission, and a servant who ven-
tured to make his appearance, informed us, that the park which had
been represented as consisting of thirtj^ miles, contained only about
eighty acres. We, therefore, sent for the carriages, and, in the mean
time, were glad to shelter ourselves beneath the friendly branches of
some walnut trees, from a heavy shower of rain.

'^^''e returned to Roberts's to dinner, about six o'clock, when we found
the Champaign but Id Id: the white hermitage, however, made ample
amends for that disappointment ; and, although our table was spread with
every luxury the season could afford, our reckoning amounted only to
one guinea per head.

The same evening, some gentlemen called at my hotel, and very po-
litely requested me to join in a hunting-party, which was to meet at
some distance from the city. I readily accepted the invitation, and
Monsieur Overard appointed five o'clock the next morning as the hour
when he would conduct me to the place of rendezvous, adding, he
would take care that every thing necessary should be prepared.

I took care to be ready before the time appointed, being habited com-
pletely a I'Anglaise, cap, whip, &c. so that on M. Overard entering
my hotel a little after five, he exclaimed with evident astonishment.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 89

** Mon Dieu ! ce n'eat pas toujoiirs comme pa avec vos compagimns de la
cJiasse." I assured him, his remark was too just, as I had frequently-
made appointments with persons who called themselves sportsmen, but
who forgot their promise. I observed, however, that they had never
treated me thus a second time — " for," said I, " such beings live on capil-
laire and caprice, fancying that boots and spurs, with the cracking of their
whips, are sufficient to establish their reputation with the ladies, whom
they entertain at all public places with an account of sports they have
hardly ever witnessed. Such animals should, in my opinion, have their
boots padded with eider down, and their delicate persons rolled up in
cotton, and scented with odeur de rose."

We set off from my hotel in a post-chaise, drawn by four ver)^ fine
English horses, and, after travelling about seven miles, found a relay
of a similar description in waiting. Having passed Versailles, and
changed horses a third time, we gained the mansion of Monsieur d'Etal-
lier, situated at Pont Chartrain, near the foot of a mountain, and visible
at a considerable distance through a fine avenue of trees, while the
road is skirted, for many miles, with the most enchanting sylvan
scenery.

On alighting from the carriage, we found all the company waiting at
the grand entrance to receive us, being all habited in plain frocks. The
first gentleman who caught my attention was General Moreau, of whom
it has been justly said, that " to an open and pleasing countenance he
unites soft and insinuating manners ; and to the fi-ankness of a soldier he
joins the becoming ease of a courtier, without the licentiousness of the
one, or the vices of the other." By his side stood General jNIacdonald,
who Avas commander in chief of the army of the Grisons: he is a tall
man, about five feet eleven inches high, with a sallow complexion, dark,
penetrating eyes, and in his manner rather reserved. By these and

VOL. I. N

90 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

eio-ht or ten other conspicuous characters, we were introduced to the la-
dies; and sat down to a splendid breakfast, consisting of cold hams,
poulards, perigeux pyes, eggs, cheese, gateaux in brandy, tea, coffee.
Burgundy, Champaign, and Uqimirs.

After our repast, we proceeded to a small village where the horses
were in waiting, and I found that my friends had set apart for my use a
very capital English hunter, equipped il VAnglaise, as, indeed, were
those of all the company. The hounds were in the vicinity of Ram-
bouillet, a town about two miles distant, where there is a magnificent
castle, formerly belonging to the Due de Penthievre.

On our arrival at the appointed place, we threw off, and tried full
three hours for roe-buck, in one of the finest forests I ever beheld. The
gentlemen were almost in despair at our ill success, but, feeling mj^self
very keen, I kept up their spirits. At length we roused three or four
roe-bucks, took two fawns, and unfortunately killed a third. The horns
resounded melodiously through the forest, and nothing could surpass the
beauty of the surrounding scene.

I soon perceived that the French hounds were too fat to run on wind.
We drew for about an hour when some of the dogs challenged ; but,
deep as we then were in the forest, I concluded it could not be Riot, as
1 thought no hare was likely to be there. However, the picqueurs and
company up wind rated them. A couple coming near the spot where
I then was, being down wind, I set at them, and, though not imme-
diately succeeding, I determined not to give up my point. I therefore
persevered, crossing the avenues, and, at length headed them, having
nearly broken my own head against some low branches in effecting it.
My next object was how to recover the company.

At this juncture a thousand fears crossed my mind, lest the hounds
should have found, and gone off; in which case I should not only have

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 91

lost the sport I was so anxious to enjoy, but should have been silently
laughed at, and hoaxed, both by my sporting friends and the ladies.

Having taken my resolution on the instant, I made my way down an
avenue which seemed to have no termination ; but knowing myself to
be down wind, I thought I might hear them, and after riding about
two miles, the faint echo of a horn excited my attention. Crossing into
another alley, the sound seemed to gain upon me, and, keeping the
wind in my ear, I soon heard it so distinctly as to be convinced it did
not arise from the rustling of leaves, by which many sportsmen have been
deceived. I was, shortly after, delighted with the sound of the French
horn, when, pushing forward, a sportsman suddenly crossed the ride, and
dashed into a thick part of the cover. I instantly followed, but soon
lost sight of him. The moisture of the turf, however, enabled me to
trace the horse's hoofs, and I had soon the pleasure of overtaking the
worthy General Moreau. The company coming up immediately after-
wards, I received their congratulations, and was informed that they had
sent a picqueur after me without success, and had also sounded their
horns, hut the Avind being high, they concluded I had lost them, and
had returned home, I also learned that the hounds I had stopped had
joined the pack, and that they belonged to General Moreau, who re-
turned me many thanks, and warmly applauded my skill, declaring that
no French sportsman, though acquainted with the forest, could have
regained the company. Many jokes ensued, and it was mutually agreed
between the General and myself, that I should be his aid-de-camp as
an officer, and he assume that character with me as a sportsman. To
be thus appointed aid-de-carap to a man so highly honoured and respect-
ed, and to be delighted with the society of so charming a woman as
Madame Moreau, did not a little gratify me, and augment the plea-
sures of the day.

n2

92 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

We had left trying, and I was engaged in conversation with the Ge-
neral, when I observed an enormous viper close to his horse. I imme-
diately alighted, and killed it with my whip ; upon which Moreau re-
marked, that I had the eye of a hawk. A laugh ensued, and the other
gentlemen coming up, became spectators of the mangled reptile.

It being now near three o'clock, the company began to flag, and to
think of soup and houUli. But I soon re-animated them by observing,
that afternoon game afforded the best sport, that the day was very far
from being spent, that there would be moon, or, at any rate, we might
procure torches; and, therefore, if they would give me leave, I would
not quit the forest 'till we had again found. They felt the force of these
observations, and we once more set to, with redoubled keenness.

I now requested that the horns might be blown, and persuaded the
company to disperse, and make as much noise as possible. I was by no
means deficient on this score. Game, in the middle of the day, when the
drag, or night-scent has evaporated, and the animal lies close, Avill fre-
quently pass by. All good sportsmen, therefore, will try closer in pro-
portion to the time of day, or the likelihood of want of scent. I have
frequently seen hounds into cover, when it was convenient for the hunts-
man to draw, and when, no attention being paid to the wind, the hounds
have whimpered, and encouraged up wind. At such times the game,
which was laying down wind, has stolen off, and when this circumstance
has been discovered and made known to the field, it has been too late to
recover it. Good sportsmen should try up wind with hounds, pointers,
or spaniels ; and, indeed, the same observation holds good in coursing,
as otherwise the hares hear very distinctly, and steal off, and the dogs, get-
ting but a distant wind, are knocked up before they turn their game,
and, unless very superior, never after turn it. When game is Avell found
it is half killed, and all goes on well; but the contrary, instead of afford-
ing pleasure, is only calculated to breed discontent.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 93

We tried on for nearly half an hour, and I was much better pleased
than the rest of the company, the scene being totally new to me. A
sudden crash inspired us, and the horns proclaimed a view. At the same
instant, seeing a roe-buck cross, I tallihoed, and, having laid on the
hounds close, in about two hours and a half we had repeated views;
the horns all sounding, and the forest quite alive and smoking.

Shortl)^ after, a dead silence ensued, and on seeing a hound bloody I
rode forward, and found that they had killed the roe-buck, I instantly
gave the whoop, but no one came near me. I then got the deer partly
suspended against a tree; but the hounds, eager for their game, made
such a peal as brought up General Moreau, who asked what was the
matter, as he feared I had hurt myself I informed him, that such was
the English mode of proclaiming the death ; upon which, he sprang
from his horse, shook hands with me, and entered into the spirit of the
moment. Then blowing his horn, the company understood him, and
the death was proclaimed in their fashion, by some particular notes from
a dozen horns which echoed through the forest. The company then
assembled, and the huntsman proclaimed the roe-buck to be fn e years
old.

Each now took the nearest route, and we soon gained the Barouches,
after which the lapse of twenty minutes con> eyed us to Pont Char-
train.

Not being prepared for a ceremonious visit, I, as well as the rest of
the gentlemen, was soon dressed, and in a few minutes we attended the
ladies to the dining-room, where we sat down to a sumptuous dinner
served on gold plate, and accompanied with the best of ^vines. The
repast being ended, I gave, as a toast, " My Aid-de-Camp, and the
Death of the Roe-Buck." This gave rise to many enquiries respecting
the meaning of a toast, and I found it very difficult to give a satisfac-

94 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

tory explanation. Madame d'Etalier then desired me to make my
choice of Avine, and, on my selecting Burgundy, I was served with
some of the most excellent, called Clos de Vottjaut* The same lady
then intreated me to drink a toast with every female present, and, on
mv observing that the trial might prove fatal to my reason, she jocosely
answered, " You have only, Colonel, to place yourself under our pro-
tection, and we will be equally careful of you as your fair friends in
England."

After remaining at table about two hours, we handed the ladies into
a splendid octagonal drawing-room, richly decorated with pier-glasses,
and Gobelins tapestry ; having previously traversed three saloons, each
of which was seventy-five feet in length. Some of the gentlemen chose
to amuse themselves with billiards in an adjoining apartment, while
Madame Moreau favoured us with some English country-dances on the
piano-forte. This lady is j' oung, of a middle stature, with a remarkably
symmetrical form, and a fair and rosy complexion, to which the sweet-
ness of her manners adds a charming fascination. I believe it is gene-
rally imagined (though such was not the case in the present instance),
that the French females are thin and sallow, two great defects in my
opinion, as a woman cannot justly be accounted handsome, unless she
have a good complexion, and a certain degree of enbonpoint. The
Prince of Wales, who is an excellent judge of the fair sex, is, I be-
lieve, of the same opinion. ,

Dancing being proposed, I had the happiness to lead out the beauti-
ful Mrs. Macdonald, to whom, after many apologies for my boots, I
could not help saying, that it would be difficult to find such another as-

* This name is derived from a village in Burgundy, remarkable for producing wines of the firet
quality.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 95

sembly of lovely and accomplished women, and that they were indispu-
tably the flower of French beauty.

Ices were then served as novel in their appearance as delicious in fla-
vour, representing every species of fruit ; and with these were brought in
liqueurs of every denomination, to which a lively and animated conver-
sation gave an additional zest. About midnight they called for tea, con-
ceiving it an English fashion ; and, on remarking my astonishment, they
begged to be acquainted with the precise English custom, as every thing
fashionable here is (i I'Anghise.

We then retired to rest; and, according to the French custom, our kind
host insisted on conducting me to my apartment, where I enjoyed the
most refreshing slumbers, and, in imagination, repeated the enjoyments
of the day, according to the poet's observation —

" In sleep when fancy is let loose to play.

Our dreams repeat the wishes of the day.

The' farther toil his tired limbs refuse,

The dreaming hunter still the chase pursues :

The dozing racer hears his chariot roll,

Smacks the vain whip, and shuns the fancied goal."

T rose at four o'clock the next morning, and strolled about the
park and gardens, which are laid out with tolerable taste. There is
also plenty of water well disposed, and the woods and scenery is super-
latively beautiful. The soil of the adjacent lands appeared sandv, yet I
saw some crops in very fine condition.

The property held by Monsieur d'Etalier in Burgundy is said to be
very extensive, and computed at twenty thousand pounds per annum.
The estate at Pont Chartrain was purchased for fifty thousand poundsj,
and is accounted a remarkably good bargain.

M. d'Etalier rose about six, and Avalked with me 'till eight o'clock.

90 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

when we sat down to a breakfast exactly resembling that of the preced-
ing morning. Fresh engagements were now made for another party at
Ran9i, the seat of Monsieur Overard ; and I was now given to zander-
stand that General Moreau, Monsieur d'Etalier, and M. Overai'd, had
separate packs of hounds, which they occasionally unite, and spend a
few days in this agreeable manner at each others houses. But as M.
Overard is a considerable government contractor, and consequently
obliged to be in or near Paris almost every day, he seldom has an op-
portunity of visiting his distant estate.

The chief excellence of France for sportsmen is, that in summer, the
astonishing extent of the forests enables them to follow the joys of the
chase, without galloping (according to tlie old game-laws) with impunity
over the -grounds of the industrious farmer, and destroying his crops

when ready for the sickle.

In autumn they turn out their packs into the adjacent woods, by
which means the deer are forced from cover, and they have very capital
sport. But roe-buck is the only game for summer. They are, indeed,
at present very scarce, but both these and pheasants are daily increasing.
General Moreau informed me, that he had about five hundred at his
estate at Grosbois, and liberally offered a part to the other gentle-
men. He has also some deer, but no wild-boars, as they are inimical
to fawns and other game in general. His park consists of about eighteen
hundred acres, walled completely round. The land is indifferent, but
in a most capital situation for sporting, being only twelve miles distant
from Paris. He gave but eighteen thousand pounds for the domain,
although the wall itself must have cost half the money.* This is,
indeed, the country for lovers of the chase.

* In consequence of General Moreau's banishment, this estate has been put up to sale, and
purchased by Louis Buonaparte.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

97

I shall, for the present, take my leave of you, ^ith an assurance of
resuming my narrative in a iew days. Meanwhile believe me to re-
main, unalterably.

Yours, &c.

vol.. I.

g^ SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER IX.

Call at the Versailles Manufactory. — Return to Paris. — List of French TVines.
— Genteel Company at the Frescati. — Buonaparte's Habits of Life. — Suits of
Chancery. — Museum of French Monuments. — Sepulchre of Abelard and
Jieloise — Le Noir. — Gallery of Statues. — Apollo Belvidere. — Opera Dan-
cers and Singers. — Interview zviih an Italian Lady,

MY LORD, Paris, July 29, 1802.

After quitting the hospitable mansion of Monsieur d'Etalier, we
called at the manufactory in Versailles, and made some enquiries re-
specting the guns I had ordered ; but it appeared that they were not
above half finished, and even what had been done was by no means
consistent with my directions. My chagrin at this disappointment, how-
ever, was effectually counterbalanced by the pleasure I felt in introduc-
ing M. Overard to General Beaumont, and his amiable brother ; and
on the ensuing day we proceeded, by the route of St. Cloud, to Paris,
where we sat down to an excellent dinner, in company with Sir James
Fitzgerald, and Messrs. Brandling and Ridley.

In the evening we strolled to the Frescati, where I met several of my
countrymen whom I had not before seen. They readily entered into
conversation, and soon evinced that they were, for the most part, as
strongly prejudiced in favour of their native land, as I am partial to
tliat of France.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

99

After paying a few visits the ensuing morning, we again dined at
l^oberts's with a party I had previously invited. E\^ery thing was comme
il faut excepting the Champaign, which is more uncertain than any
other wine, and differs more in its quahties. We have, for instance,
Mousseaiix, or sparkhng Champaign, and non Mousseaux, or the tranquil
sort. B}'^ some connoisseurs the dry Champaign of Aix is most esteemed;
while others prefer the contrary : but where we find such variety in co-
lour and flavour, it is certainly difficult to fix a criterion of excellence.
This is, indeed, the country for wines ; for your amusement I shall sub-
join a fist of those which may be had at our hotel : —

De Saint Cyv

De 3ou€

De Saint Avertin

De Cliesseaux

De St. Nicolas de Bourgueil

De Tossembault

De Beaugency, (different sorts)

De Sancerre

De Bourgogne

De Meaux

De Beaunne

De Tonnerre

De Paumard

De Volney

Du Clos de Voujaut
Rose de Champagne
De Bordeaux
De Saint Emilian
De Segur
De RousiUon
De Caliors
De La Cote d'Or
De Saint Pierre
De I'Herniitage
De Cornance
De Chateau Neuf
De Nerthe du Pape
De C6te Rotie

De Champagrje Mousseaux, and non

Vins Blancs du Tayi.
De Vouvrey
Des Jannieres
De Marcou
De Saint Cecile
De Frontignan
De Langou
De Soterne
De Chablis
De Rausiou
De Lunel
D' Arbois
De Juranson
De Calabre
Mousseaux.

You must not imagine, however, that all the wines included in this
list are introduced at the tables of the opulent ; many of them being
what are here denominated vin du pays, which form the common beve-
rage of the lower class of people : and some of them are also cal-
led les vin doux. But 1 may more properlj^ enter into this subject when
I transmit the result of my remarks on tlie vinej^ards of this coun-
try.

o2

100 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

In the evening we repeated our visit to the Frescati, and were very
agreeably entertained. The company, as I observed on a former occa-
-sion, is exceedingly good, and the most scrupulous of our fair country-
women may partake of its amusements, when they visit Paris, without
the smallest apprehension of being mistaken either for Jilles de joye, or
les parvemies, the latter of whom have accumulated great wealth dur-
ing the late troubles, without being held in that estimation they would
wish to command.

Here we met with many English, who appeared particularly anxious
to see the monthly parade, at which the First Consul always attends.
This was expected to take place on the following Sunday; but I was
enabled, from private information, to inform the company it was post-
poned. And, indeed, it is by no means surprising, that the chief Con-
sul, who dedicates so much of his time to public business, and makes
every other avocation a secondary object, should sometimes be under
the necessity of changing the day set apart for this grand review. It is
the opinion of some, that he has the real Avelfare of the country at heart,
and that he admires show and ostentation no otherwise than as they con-
duce to the encouragement of the national manufactures. Having heard
much of his habits of life, from General Moreau, who was intimately
acquainted with him, I shall subjoin a few observations on the sub-
ject.

The First Consul appears to be possessed of no passions except on bu-
siness which relates to war or government. For instance, he cares but
little for that amusement Avhich he rather follows for bodily exercise and
mental relaxation than for the pleasures we derive from the chase. Nei-
ther does he indulge in the least at table, or in the delights of the bottle ;
but his very soul seems absorbed in state affairs, and the grandeur of
France appears to occupy the whole of his attention. It seems to be ad-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 101

mitted, that France may deem herself fortunate in having the reins of
government in such able hands; but time must prove how far this
opinion is founded on justice. For my own part I have little to say on
subjects of this nature, as it is, in my humble opinion, of little conse-
quence who is the ruler of the country, provided that thirty millions of
people have justice equally administered, and that in a manner admit-
ting as few delays as possible. The procrastination and expenses attend-
ing suits in England, particularly in the court of chancer}^ are frequently
known to ruin both parties ; as, by fictitious delays, a cause which might
have been decided in a few hours, becomes the subject of contest for
many years, and, after two generations have passed away, persons who
were, at first, unconcerned in the dispute, have to pay or recover the
final award. I have heard, and that on good authorit}^, of chancery
suits which have continued undecided for a whole century.

But to resume my journal. — We agreed next morning to visit the Mu-
seum of French Monuments, an institution which does equal honour to
the head which conceived, and the unremitting industiy which carried
the plan into execution. The Parisians may, probably, set a higher
value on their gallery of antiques in the central museum of the arts ;
but here the monuments of all the most illustrious characters of France,
collected from different parts, and carefully arranged in chronological
order, are calculated to inspire the soul of a Frenchman with reverential
awe. This museum, which all the heroes of Greece and Rome might
view with envy, may, indeed, be properly called a sort of classical
history, bringing to recollection the deeds of those whose monuments
are here preserved, and claiming the particular attention of every cu-
rious and contemplative traveller.

The collection, which has been formed out of every thing that escaped
the ravages of the revolution, was not opened for public inspection 'till

102 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the autumn of 1795. But its origin may be dated five years prior to
that period, when the constitutional assembly, having decreed that the
possessions of the clergy were national property, charged the committee
of alienation to use their utmost endeavours in order to preserve all the
monuments of art that might be discovered in the widely extended do-
mains of the Gallic churcli.

To carry this plan into execution, a number of artists, and other per-
sons qualified for the purpose, were employed to select the finest monu-
ments, and designajted by the appellation of Les Commission des Monu-
mens. At the same time the committee of alienation appointed the ci-
devant monastery of the Petits Augustines, as well as those of the Capu-
cins, Grands Jesuits, and Cordeliers, for the reception of the treasures
ordered to he rescued from destruction. Accordingly the suppressed
churches and convents yielded up their monuments to this museum,
while a considerable number of memoirs and addresses diffused through
the various departments, contributed to arrest the arm of violence,
which, propelled by a blind and insatiate fury, had hitherto taken de-
light in mutilating the most admired statues, in defacing or utterly de-
stroying the most exquisite paintings, and in melting down the most
beautiful casts, in bronze and other metals.

No sooner did the sunshine of tranquillity begin to beam on the re-
public, than it Avas proposed to aiTange these valuable relics in chrono-
logical order, giving to each apartment an appearance suitable, both in
architecture and decorations, to the country in which the characters there
to be deposited had flourished; and the windows, being of stained glass
(the production of that particular country), corresponded beautifully
with the sculpture within.

To enumerate the treasures of antiquity preserved in this museum,
would swell my letter to the size of a volume, and, at last, would ex-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 103

hiblt but a catalogue of the names of the potentates, heroes, statesmen,
and legislators, who, in remote periods, constituted the pride and honour
of their country.

The museum is terminated by a large garden, which may, with great
propriety, be called an elysium. Here, in a beautiful lawn, shaded by
cypress, poplars, and weeping-willows, repose the ashes of La Fontaine,
Moliere, Boileau, Descartes, Montfaucon, and many others, who, by
the brilliancy of their genius, and the sweetness of their poetic numbers,
have charmed even the more remote periods. Here also is the highly
interesting sepulchre of the tender Heloise, whose remains, after a lapse
of nearly three hundred years, have been once more united with those
of her beloved Abelard. Le Noir, who has endeared himself to every
lover of science by the pains he has bestowed on this establishment, col-
lected the bones of these unfortunate lovers, and deposited them in a
sepulchral chapel, which now serves to perpetuate the affecting story of
their constant and mutual attachment

In adjusting and disposing the numerous and invaluable momiments
which adorn the museum, Le Noir had a thousand difficulties to contend
with, but his judgment and classic taste surmounted them all, and ren-
dered the exhibition highly creditable to himself, and particularly wor-
thy the attention of the public. Indeed it may be justly asserted, that
the connoisseur, the philosopher, the student, and the stranger who tra-
vels in pursuit of knowledge, will here find a rich profusion of subjects
for their admiration ; and the name of Le Noir will assuredly be conse-
crated as long as taste and science are cherished by mankind.

We passed by the mint, crossed the Pont Neuf, and saw the founda-
tion of another bridge, intended as a communication between the Lou-
vre and the opposite bank of the Seine ; and finding we had sufficient

10 i SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

time before dinner, we went to see the Gallery of Statues at the Cen-
tral Museum of the Arts.

Italy has resigned its choicest treasures, and the present generation
views, with wonder, on the banks of the Seine, and^collected into one
focus, those sublime productions of genius which were formerly spread
through various and distant countries. The whole world has acknow-
ledged the superior excellence of the Statue of Apollo Belvidere, and
it is impossible for me not to join in the general eulogium on its perfec-
tions. I must confess, however, that its present situation does not strike
me as sufficientlj^ advantageous, for the room is considerably too small,
and the surrounding statues appear injudiciously crowded. The right-
arm and the left-hand of this statue being broken oft", were supplied by a
pupil of Michael Angelo ; and from the thickness of the ancles, some
connoisseurs have been led to suspect that the legs are also modern.

After amusing ourselves for some time at this interesting place, Ave re-
turned to our hotel, where we found General Beaumont, and some other
friends, waiting our arrival ; and at dinner we enjoyed, as usual,

" The feast of reason and the flow of soul."

In the evening we repaired to the opera, where Ave had a good box,
exactly opposite to that of the Chief Consul. It was reported that he
was now present, but I soon perceived it Avas my friend General Duroc,
who, being seated in the interior of the box, and dressed in his uniform,
had been mistaken for the chief magistrate.

The scenery Avas very superior to that of our London theatres, and
Vestris and his Avife danced with their accustomed gracefiilness ; but the
voice of the principal female performer, though enthusiastically ap-
plauded, was considerably too high. It is true, such singers may excite

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

105

astonishment, but, in my opinion, they can never produce those pleasing
sensations Avhich ai'ise from a continuation of harmonic sounds.

Between the acts, we formed a chit-chat acquaintance with a very
genteel young lady, who spoke French fluently, but whom I soon dis-
covered to be an Italian. She appeared solicitous to visit England, and
confessed that she looked forward with impatience to the period when
her husband (then absent on business) should accompany her thither.

Adieu,
'. . Yours, &c.

VOL. I.

106 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER X.

Museum of Paintings — Picture of Dead Game — Plan of Copying the finest
Pieces. — Statue of Henry IV. — Estates remaining unsold. — National In-
stitute.— Excursion from Paris. — Park of Seaux. — Chateau of the ci-devant
Duchesse d" Orleans. — German Dinner. — Value of Cattle, and National Pro-
perty.— Plantations of Acacia. — Coimt Lauragais. — Madame Tallien. —
Specimen of Copies from the Pictures in the Museum. — St. Cloud. — Paint-
ings at Versailles — Stables — Opera-Housc — Bed-chamber of the late Queen.
Petit Trianon.

MY LORD, Paris, August 3, 1S02.

V^UR next ramble was to the Museum of Paintings, slightlj'^ noticed
in a former communication. The building contains a vast collection of
the most exquisite productions of the pencil, but to enter into an elabo-
rate description of them, I must MTite a tolerably large A^olume instead
of a letter; as every thing which the Italian, Flemish, and Dutch
schools can boast, is there found in perfection. As a sportsman, I Avas
particularlj?^ pleased with a picture of dead game : the hare and pea-
cock's head, Avith that of the dog are, in my estimation, the ne plus ultra
of that particular branch of the imitative art. This celebrated collec-
tion is open to the public three days in the week, free of expence ; and,
it is worthy of remark, that this institution is admirably adapted to fami-
liarize the most uncultivated classes of society to Avorks of sublime taste.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCEi 107

and consequently to humanize the heart and enlarge the understanding.
I am inclined to think, it would do much honour to the legislature of
Great Britain, if similar exhibitions were adopted in our metropolis.

On returning to my hotel, a thought suddenly struck me, which I re-
solved to put into immediate execution. This was to have copies taken
from some of the most celebrated pictures in the museum, and in order
to add to their beauty, and in some measure render them originals, I
proposed leaving out such objects as appeared least interesting, and ad-
ding others of greater consequence from the same masters. Accordingly
I contracted for some of these performances with two artists whom I
knew to be fully adequate to the task : and I have the pleasure of re-
flecting, that the execution of this plan will not cost me above a thou-
sand guineas, whereas the purchase of the originals, even if they could
be procured from the museum, would amount to fifty, or, perhaps, a
hundred thousand pounds.

Having paid my respects to General Beaumont and his brother, who
Avere with a relation in the palace of the Tuileries, we went to the Ma-
nege, and afterwards to a private collection of paintings, where we saw
a very fine one taken from the famous statue of Henry the Fourth, for-
merly erected on the Pont Neuf) but torn from its situation by the blind
fury of the revolutionists, whom neither the memory of that virtuous and
accomplished prince, nor the unparalleled excellence of the cast itself
could restrain from dragging it away, and melting down the metal of
which it was constructed. The pedestal, ho^^ever, still remains to mark
the atrocity of those times, and the citizens universall)' express their de-
testation of the rufiians who dared to violate the memorial of a king so
justly beloved by every patriotic Frenchman.

I had for some time made fruitless applications to men ot fashion
on matters of business, and had been bandied about from one minister

p 2

108 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

to another, without gaining the least knowledge res|^ecting that part of
the national property which I understood was to be disposed of. By-
dint of unremitting perseverance, however, I at length received infor-
mation, that all national domains of consequence were sold, but that
some lands in Brabant sill remained for disposal, and that I might
a]i))ly to a certain attorney, who was the person most likely to give
me further intelligence. Accordingly, I waited on the gentleman
in question, but the result of all my enquiries amounted simply to this,
that the large estates which I was desirous of purchasing had been re^
sumed by order of the Convention, for the purpose of applying the rents
and profits to establish a fund, which might yield an honourable pension
to deserving officers. Thus ended this troublesome business, which had
occupied a considerable portion of my time ; but so little is this regula-
tion known, or carried into effect, that even the nearest neighbours to
some of these very estates are entirely ignorant of the decree. The
gentleman whom I had employed on this occasion, told me of several
estates, one or two of which were said to be of great consequence, but,
with respect to their price, they could afford me no information.

Through the medium of Monsieur Lesterie, I procured tickets of ad-
mission to the National Institute, where the orators, who delivered
speeches of different lengths, received the applause due to their abilities,
but Citoyen Lacepide appeared to be the favourite of the audience. His
speech, or rather what he read, lasted nearly an hour; but whatever
merit it might possess, I should certainly have preferred an extempore
harangue. 1 could not help remarking the great number of females
present, whose attendance might surely be dispensed with, considering
the abstruseness of the subjects which generally occupy the speakers. The
statues placed in niches are very handsome, and the soldiers dressed in
full uniform, and bearing their carbines, have a singular effect. The

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 109

lectures began at half after five, and ended about eight o'clock, and I
entered and departed without witnessing any of that confusion which
generally attends public places in England.

Attended by M. Lesterie, whose politeness is unremitting, we set
out, next morning, on an excursion to the ci-devant Madame La Du-
chesse d'Orleans. We had scarcely quitted Paris ere we beheld some
extensive fields where the reapers had been recently employed. Grass
is not so much cultivated in the environs of Paris as in those of London,
and yet milk appears tolerably plentiful. I must observe, that our atten-
tion Avas occasionally attracted by several immense windlasses and un-
common blocks of stone, which were raised by these machines, for the
purposes of building.

The road was tolerably good, and led to the walls of the ci-devant
park of Seaux, formerly ornamented with a beautiful residence belong-
ing to the Due de PenthievTe. It was recommended to me at the
price of fifteen thousand pounds, and was said to contain six hundred
acres, but I am convinced this account was exaggerated. The build-
ing, except the orangery, which affords some idea of its former mag-
nificence, is all demolished, the trees are stubbed up, and the waters
drained off. Near this spot are some acres of land entirely planted with
currant-bushes, and roses are also abundantly cultivated for the perfumers
of Paris.

At adistance of about nine miles, and fi'om the summit of a gentle
declivity, we were greeted with the sight of a most beautiful valley, the
back-ground of which was shaded by an immense forest, while vineyards,
corn-fields, meadows, and little coppices completed the interesting land-
scape. The chateau which Ave had come to inspect is charmingly situ-
ated in the centre of this valley, and all that is wanting is the addition

1 10 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

of a sheet of water a VAnglaise in, front of the mansion, which would
render it very complete.

The family, being apprised of our amval, received us with the utmost
cordiality, and conducted us into the garden, where we breakfasted un-
der the shade of some American shrubs, while the quails in the adjacent
grounds amused us with their incessant calls, and the zephyrs were lite-
rally impregnated with the most reviving odours. After noticing some
small lizards, and contemplating a profusion of beautiful exotics, which
were arranged in the most tasteful manner, we proceeded to the farm-
yard, which appeared in excellent order, and well stocked. "T^' sheep
were a mixture of the Norman and Swiss breed ; but the cows, though
tolerably fine, seemed to have too much throat, and were altogether
inferior to ours. > The piggery is too confined, and the pigs themseh^es
are of an indifferent sort ; though it is probable that a cross breed be-
tween them and some of the Chinese breed might answer extremely
well. We saw a flock of sheep which were a mixture of French and
Spanish, but there were some entire Spanish rams, whose wool was re-
markably fine, silky, and thick, even to their feet, but their make was
as faulty as that of the other cattle.

We returned to the chateau, the domestic apartments of which are
very commodious. The other part has been converted into a manufac-
tory for tapes and laces, which seem to answer to the present proprietor
(M. Bass) extremely \\e\\. I must observe, however, that the best
rooms are nearly in the same state as Avhen inhabited by the Duchess :
they are on a better scale than any I had previously seen in France, and
might be restored to their original grandeur at a trifling expence. M.
Fouche, the minister of the police, had promised to meet me at dinner,
but business of state preventing, he sent an apology, and we sat doA^^n to
table with some gentlemen, natives of Germany.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. Ill

The dinner was served differently from ours, and as I understand d,
I'Alemagne, M. Bass being a German. It was brought up in the fol-
lowing order :

FIRST COURSE.

Potatoes

Sour Crout

Pye

Quails

Bouilli

Melons

Ham

Soup

SECOND COURSE.

Capons.

Ragout

Very

fine Sallad, and Fish, nearly

the last

thing.

The wines were of various sorts, and some of a very fine quality.

In the course of the apres dinner the conversation turned on the value
of cattle, when I found that the best Spanish rams sold at from ten to
twelve Louis, and the mixed-breed cheaper in proportion. M. Bass
requested me to procure him some crosses from ours. The value of na-
tional property came next upon the tapis, and I was greatly surprised at
hearing that the price of land had fallen A-ery considerably since the
peace. Several observations were made on the cause, and among other
matters it was stated, that some projected alterations would render the
constitution, in many respects, analogous to that of England; but I
could not conceive how this could be any obstacle to the value of estates,
as every impartial man must acknowledge, that if our code were cleared
of a few excrescences and failings, no better could be desired. For my
own part I should have no objection to purchase here on equitable
terms, although I am informed, Germany is better adapted for my
purpose.

I should have mentioned that I saw, at the above chateau, severaV

112 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

plantations mixed with acacia,* and some nurseries of the same trees,
which are said to yield very good profit when about three years old.
Their growth is surprising, for on measuring one, by no means the
largest, I found its height to be twenty feet and a half^ and its circum-
ference nearly ten inches.

In the course of the evening, Mrs. Bass entertained us Avith some ca-
pital performances on the piano-forte, after which a mechanical organ
plaj^ed some select airs in a very good style. We were strongly pressed
to pass the night at this hospitable mansion, but declined the invitation,
and returned to Paris, highly gratified with our little excursion.

Next morning we strolled about the city, and Mrs. T made some

trifling purchases. Among the friends who honoured us with their com-
pany at dinner, was a very worthy but ill-fated man, Count Lauragais,
who, with the best intentions towards mankind in general, and his coun-
try in particular, has constantly been the sport of fortune, and, although

* The acacia, or Egj'ptiau thorn, according to Linnaeus, is a species of mimosa, though some
botanists make it a distinct genus. The flowers are used by the Chinese in making that yellow co-
lour, which bears washing in their silks and stuffs, and appears with peculiar elegance in their paint-
ing on paper. The origin of bezoar has been, also, attributed to the reeds of this plant, which
being broused by certain animals, and vellicating the stomach, by their sourness and astriugency,
cause a condensation of the juices, 'till, at length, they become coated over with a stony matter,
commonly denominated bezoar.

Acacia, in the materia medica, is the inspissated juice of the unripe fruit of the mimosa nilotica;
and is imported from Egypt in roundish mashes, wrapt up in thin bladders. It is outwardly of a
deep brown colour, inclining to black ; inwardly of a reddish or yellowish brown, of a firm consis-
tence, but not very dry. It soon softens in the mouth, and discovers a rough but not disagreeable
taste, which is followed by a sweetish relish. This medicine is a mild astringent, and is employed
by the Egyptians in collyria, for strengthening the eyes, and in gargarisms for quinseys. They also
give it in spitting of blood, in the quantity of a dram, dissolved in any convenient liquor, and re-
peated occasionally. It is seldom used in England, however, otherwise than as an ingredient in
mithridate and theriaca, and is rarely met with in the shops ; German acacia being usually sold for
it, which is nothing more than the juice of unripe sloes, inspissated nearly to dryness over a gentle
fire. This is given in disorders where styptic medicines are indicated, from a scruple to a dram.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 11,5

an avowed enemy to aristocratical principles, lie has suffered materially
by the revolution, and, since that period, the law has completed his ruin.
He is now very desirous of managing a farm for me.

After being disappointed of places at the opera, we concluded the
evening with taking ice at the Frescati, where I unconsciously fell into
conversation with the beautiful Madame I'allien, Mho had seated herself
next to me. She is, indeed, a most fascinating woman, full of that
lively esprit by which the French ladies are particularly distinguished,
and to this she adds all the advantages of a good understanding, culti-
vated by the most refined education. She had no sooner quitted her
seat than a French gentleman of our party complimented me on my
good fortune in having been engaged in conversation with the finest vco-
man of Paris, and by this means I became acquainted with her name.

On returning with some fi-iends to our hotel, the conversation turned
upon the comparative merits of French fire-arms and those of other na-
tions. Tavo gentlemen present, the one Mr. H , a Fleming, the

other Mr. T , an American, then made the following bett for two

hundred guineas and a rump and dozen. Mr. H asserted that he

could,, in a day or two, bring forward a friend who, at the distance of
sixteen yards, should hit a claret-cork suspended, four times out of five.

Mr. T readily laid the wager, and I was appointed judge of this

trial of skill, which all the company were incited to witness on the en-
suing Monday.

I had just finished some letters next morning, when Mr. Lucas, an
eminent artist of the school of the famous Pigale, waited upon me with
two of his superlative copies from the paintings at the museum. Some
of my friends, who are amateurs in this delightful science, called at my
hotel shortly after, and, accompanying me to the gallery, ga^e it as
their decided opinion, that the pieces were even superior to the originals,

VOL. I. Q.

114 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the artist having, in comphance with my request, introduced some inte-
resting parts from similar paintings, and left out such objects as appeared
objectionable. For my own part I was greatly pleased with the per-
formances, and was fully convinced, that, by procuring such copies from
the paintings in the Museum and at Versailles, together with those I
might meet with in my travels, I should become possessed of a collec-
tion, which, when time should have mellowed the tints, might be
deemed almost invaluable. I therefore immediately contracted for a
sufficient number to give Mr. Lucas two years constant employment.
At night we went to the Feydeau Theatre, Avhich was as much crowded
as on the preceding evening.

Next morning I ordered the carriage and drove to St. Cloud, not
knowing that it was necessary to procure tickets in order to inspect the
chateau. On our arrival the sentry very civilly informed us, that he
had directions to admit no one without tickets ; and we were conse-
quently obliged to rest contented with a view of the exterior. Indeed
it is not probable that there was much to be seen, as the workmen were
busily employed, notwithstanding it was Sunday, in the various pro-
jected improvements.

St. Cloud is a very extensive village, and one of the most populous in
France. It is also of great antiquitj^ deriving its name from Saint
Cloud, who was the son of king Clodomir, and founded a monastery,
wherein he was afterwards buried. Here, likewise, repose many other
illustrious characters of more recent date, and among the rest I must
not omit noticing the remains of the vmfortunate Henrietta Maria, who
found tiiat rest in the tomb which she was not permitted to enjoy whilst
living. The chateau of St. Cloud, formerly the property of the Dukes
of Orleans, is a grand edifice, and was ornamented, under the old
regime, with some exquisite paintings. The gardens were laid out in

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 115

the usual formal style, and decorated with a profusion of jets d'eau, sta-
tues, and temples.

Our little deviation from the usual route to Versailles rendered our
excursion the more pleasant, the road itself being very superior, and the
surrounding scenery much more luxuriant.

On our arrival at Versailles, of Avhich I have previously spoken, we
went immediately to the palace, as I was desirous of selecting a few of
the best paintings to add to those of which I had ordered copies from
the museum. After an attentive survey, I fixed on l' Amour endormie, a
beautiful picture by Pierre Mignard : the innocence of the little god is
admirably expressed, while the warmth of the colouring and the chas-
tity of the design, at once rivet the attention and display the exquisite
genius of the artist. I also selected No. 70, Marine, being a painting
by David, a living artist, who possesses considerable merit. Also a sea-
port with architecture, and the sun in a mist, by Claude Lorraine. Ano-
ther performance which particularly attracted my notice was called uii
chien chassant line oie et ses oisons.

The fi-iends who accompanied me, having never before visited Ver-
sailles, were forcibly struck with the stables, built in the form of a cre-
scent, from the design of Mansard, and appearing rather adapted for
the residence of princes than horses. We proceeded through the apart-
ments which I noticed in a former letter, but when we came to the
opera-house, my companions were overwhelmed with astonishment at
the profusion of carved work and gilding which appears on every side,
and the superb paintings that adorn the dome. The bed-chamber
of the late queen, whence she escaped fi-om the murderous band, is
nailed up; but I understand, the bed which received the daggers in-
tended to terminate her existence, is still there.

After permitting my friends to indulge their contemplations for some

Q 2

116 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

time, I called at the hotel of General Beaumont ; where we dined, and
then went to the Petit Trianon, the favourite retreat of the late queen,
but now rented by a fruiterer, who provides music and refreshments
somewhat in the manner of Vauxhall. Here we found several parties
dancing with that elegance and vivacity which constitutes a prominent
feature in the national character.

The Fetit Trianon, though in a very neglected condition, is still a
beautiful sejotir ; but under the auspices of its royal mistress it contained
every thing that can be conceived of the picturesque or enchanting.
Here were a miniature palace, grottoes, cottages, a mill, and various
other interesting objects which attracted the eye, while the warbling of
unnumbered birds echoed to the purling streams, and ambrosial odours
were perpetually wafted over the rich domain by every passing breeze.
The habitations were fitted up Avith the utmost elegance, and it was
here that the most illustrious youths and ladies of the court constantly
attended on their beautiful and magnificent queen.

Yielding to a train of ideas which strike upon my fancy at this junc-
ture, Avhile contemplating the astonishing events that have so lately
levelled with the earth the mighty rulers of this land, I shall close my
letter with an assurance that,

I am.

Yours, &c.

SPOUTING TOUR TIIROUGH FRANCE. 117

LETTER XT.

Shooting -jnatch at Versailles. — Account of Col. T — 's Gun, called Buonaparte.
— Seve Manufactory of Porcelain. — Monsieur de Lu^ays. — Strangers e.r.-
cluded from the Palace of the Tuilcries. — Interviezv with Mr. Merry. — Sir
Cupel Molineux. — A rc.vatious Delay. — Col. T. mistaken for Lord JVhit-
xvorth. — Consular Beverage. — Consular ReviewK — Mameluke Corps. — Cui-
rassiers.— Introduction to Buonaparte. — Brief Description of his Person. —
Thanks voted by the English to Monsieur de Lucays. — Monsieur De Bois. —
Introduction to several sporting Gentlemen.

HIY LORD, Paris, August 8, 1802.

JTlAVING concluded my last with an account of our excursion to the
Petit Trianon, I now resume my pen to inform you, that we were
awakened early the next morning by some of our party, Avho had come
to Versailles for the express purpose of witnessing the great shooting
match which was to take place at six o'clock in the gardens of the ma-
nufactor3\ Accordingly we repaired to the appointed spot, attended by
M. Boute, one of the principal overseers. I naturally imagined that
the pistols to be tried on this occasion were those of the manufactory, but
I found this was not the case, the locks only having been constructed
there.

The first match being lead, whereby Mr. Tripper had engaged that
an Italian gentleman named Dance would hit a cork of an ordinary

118 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

size, at sixteen yards distance, four times out of five, for two hundred
guineas; Mr. Dance begged leave to state, that his friend must have la-
boured under an error, as he never pretended to hit more than once in
five shots, and consequently declined any other bet. The forfeit-money
was therefore paid to me as judge, and an elegant dinner agreed on for
a subsequent day.

The second bet was between Mr. Tripper and Mr. H , when the

former wagered twenty guineas that Mr. H could not hit a cork at

the same distance once in ten shots. At the first trial Mr. H very

nearly struck the cork, and bets were keenly laid on his side; but not-
withstanding he made a good mark, he proved unsuccessful.

Mr. Dance was then matched to hit a card-wafer twice in four shots,
at sixteen yards, for thirty guineas. His aim proved accurate three
times, and he consequently won the wager. Mr. Boute came forward
and hit the wafer four times successively, but missed in two other
trials.

I was afterwards requested to order the shot-guns, and, on trial.
Colonel Petersfield and General Beaumont were appointed judges. I
then challenged my gun called Buonaparte* to shoot with every sized
shot, and at any distance, from a hundred and seventy-five to thirty
yards, against any that could be produced. This favourite piece I deem
the 7ie plus ultra of workmanship. I shot with that and two others, the
one silver, and the other steel-mounted ; but the decision was given in
favour of my Buonaparte, the execution of which excited the greatest
astonishment in all the company present.

* This extraordinary gun, which is wrought up to the highest pitch of perfection, was made by
Mr. Fisher, of Greek Street, Soho. Colonel Thornton possesses, also, two other capital pieces,
the one mounted in silver, and the other in steel, which are two inches longer than the Buonaparte.
Eut the latter has never been equalled.

r

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 119

Two rifle-guns of the manufactory, the one valued at a hundred, the
other at twenty-five guineas, were next loaded, and fired by General
Beaumont and another person against my rifle, called Caroline, the dis-
tance agreed upon being one hundred yards. General Beaumont's first
shot hit the bull's-eye, upon which he was highly complimented : mine,
in return, was an inch from it, and high odds were consequently in fa-
vour of the General. The succeeding shots were as follow:

General Beaumont's second shot missed, and went over the iron plate,
three feet square.

Colonel Thornton's ditto near the bull's-eye.

Gen. B 's third shot below the iron, and struck the ground.

Col. T 's ditto hit the bull's-eye.

Gen. B 's fourth shot struck to the left of the plate, thirteen inches

from the mark.

Col. T 's ditto near the mark.

Gen. B 's fifth shot went over the mark.

Col. T 's ditto within one inch of the bull's-eye.

The other rifle, shot b}'^ a person belonging to the manufactory, did
not succeed better than General Beaumont, and the decision A\as conse-
quently given in my favour. The rifle I shot with on this occasion was
the workmanship of Mr. Sluden, of Cockspur Street. The gentlemen
present at the trials were, my friend Beaumont and two other French
generals; Mr. Dance, an Italian, Mr. Tripper, an American; Colonel
Petersfield, Mr. Franco, and Mess. Brandling and Ridley.

My guns were highly applauded for the construction of the locks, and
the wood-work was also deemed more sportsman-like than those of a fo-
reign make, whiie the French pieces were allowed to possess superior
elegance with respect to their carving and mounting. Having thus

120 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

agreeably spent the morning, we adjourned to a splendid dinner which
had been previously ordered, and the day closed with mirth and con-
viviality.

We went, next morning, to inspect the Seve manufactory of porce-
lain, which is carried on under the patronage of government, and is ge-
nerally noticed by ti-avellers. The productions are certainly beautiful,
and possess a peculiar property, in consequence of which they may be
put on a fire without sustaining any injury, but I am decidedly of opi-
nion, that several sorts of our English porcelain are equally as good
while they are infinitely cheaper.

On my return to Paris, I repaired to Col, Petersfield's to dinner, that
gentleman having invited the whole of our shooting-party to his hotel.
The repast was served up in the first style of elegance, and the evening
terminated in the most agreeable manner. ^

The ensuing morning I breakfasted with Monsieur de Lu^ays, pre-
fect of the palace, whose engaging manners render his acquaintance
a most invaluable acquisition to such as are fortunate enough to enjoy
it. This gentleman possesses one of the finest estates in Berry, con-
sisting of a noble mansion and thirty thousand acres of land, and he is
one of the few who may be said to have rode secure on the whirlwind
of the revolution, as he has fortunately contrived to preserve both his
life and property. He observed, that from the necessity of his constant
attendance at Paris, he was seldom at liberty to visit the above estate,
but he gave me a pressing invitation to spend some time there, on ac-
count of its being peculiarly adapted to the sports'of the field.

From M. de Lu9ays, I went to the prefect of the police, who also
behaved towards me with the most marked attention. I had, however,
to encounter some difficulty on account of the guards refusing to suffer

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. |21

any carriages to pass -except those belonging to the government. In^
deed I was given to understand, that, in consequence of a recent order,
no persons were to be admitted into the palace of the Tuileries, and
that all permissions which might have been previously issued were to be
considered of no effect.

I now waited upon Mr. Merry, and acquainted him with my earnest
desire to be introduced to the First Consul. He observed, that the or-
ders of the Consul himself had thrown an obstacle in my way ; but, as
this appeared to be the only impediment, I flattered myself with the
possibilit)'' of removing it, and accordingly repaired to M. de Lu9ays,
whose situation in the palace is correspondent with that of one of our
lords in waiting. The answer I received from him was calculated to
strengthen my hopes, and I concluded that every thing was settled.
- Dining at Peregaux's, I met a large party of British gentlemen, and
among the rest Sir Capel Molineaux, who had come over from Ireland
for the express purpose of seeing the First Consul, but although his pass
was regularly signed, he found it impossible to obtain the desired grati-
fication. You will, probably, recollect, that Sir Capel is the gentle-
man who stood, a contested and expensive election for the city of Ar-
magh, and who distinguished himself as a vigorous opposer of the Irish
union.

As the answer I had received from M. de Lucays entitled me to hope
that I should experience no farther opposition from the consular court,
I informed Mr. Merry of the circumstance; but, to my great surprise,
he endeavoured to throw fresh impediments in my way, and even re-
minded me that he had not seen my pass. However, on my observing
that I had a letter of licence drawn up, very differently from those com-
monly granted by the Duke of Portland, who had behaved with pecu-
liar politeness to me on that occasion, he desired me to attend at half
VOL. I, R

122 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

after one on the ensuing day, at the hall of the amba.ssadors, when he
would introduce me.

After an elegant dinner at Peregaux's, the banker's. Sir Capel and
the party returned to sup at my hotel, where the subject of introduction
to the Consul was resumed. Sir Capel congratulated me on the spi-
rited manner in which I had maintained my point with Mr. Merry, but
he evidently considered himself exceedingly ill used in a transaction in
which he was so deeply interested. It is but justice to add, that the
great difficulty in getting admission was not occasioned by the severity
of the French government, but from the obstacles successively raised by
Mr. Merry, from whom, as an Englishman, very different conduct
might have been expected.

The ensuing morning proved remarkably propitious for the fete, and
was ushered in with a discharge of cannon, which I counted, in order
to ascertain the precise number which constituted a salute to the First
Consul. From one battery I reckoned twenty-eight, and from another
forty-six, the two cannons firing almost at the same instant.

Anxious to obtain a ticket of admittance to the hall of ambassa-
dors, which would preclude the possibility of an interruption fi'om the
military, I dispatched a note to Monsieur De Lu9ays, apprising him of
what had transpired between Mr. Merry and myself, since I had last the
honour of addressing him. After waiting a considerable time the valet
de place returned, and informed me that Mr. Merry (to whom he had
gone on finding M. de Lu^aj^s from home) desired to see my letter of
licence. Thus all I had done was rendered abortive with Mr. Merry,
and fi-esh obstacles raised, either tlirough the consummate folly of my
servant, or some secret influence with which I am hitherto unac-
quainted.

Having ordered my carriage and drove to Mr. Merry's, I found that

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 123

he had opened and perused the letter intended for M. de Lu9ays, and
then returned it to ni)^ servant. I now presented my letter of licence,
but on his reading it he observed, that he considered himself absolved
from his engagement, for that I had told him I had in my possession a
strong letter from the Duke of Portland, whereas it was only a pass. I
insisted that a pass drawn out at a time when we were at war with
France, and when no passes could be obtained but with the greatest
difficulty, was very different from one received in time of peace. Find-
ing, however, that this availed but little, I told him I would once more
argue the point with him, as a lawyer and a gentleman, and, as he had
named an hour for my attendance in the hall of ambassadors, I should
expect my ticket to be given to Monsieur de Lu9ays.

The whole city was by this time in motion, and Avitli some address I
contrived to get into the palace, though my good fortune in this respect
was, probably, owing to the medallion I wore, and the supporters of
my arms, which excited the attention and respect of the militaiy. I
first saw some gentlemen whom I imagined to be in fancy uniforms, but
I afterwards learned, they were of the privy council. I was much sur-
prised at finding mj^self treated with marked attention by every gen-
tleman present 'till some whispers discovered that I was mistaken for
Lord Whitworth, who was every day expected ; and you may naturally
suppose I Avas not very forward in rectifying this error.

After waiting some time, I requested an officer to take my letter of
hcence to M. de Lu9ays, that he might be enabled to judge whether the
letter dated in 1801 bore any reference to orders issued in 1802.

Soon afterwards an immense concourse of gentlemen brilliantly
dressed, and many of them decorated with a profusion of diamonds,
assembled in the hall, where coffee and cooling liquors were offered to

R 2

124 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the company. As I had not hitherto tasted any consular beverage, I
was now resolved on trying the experiment, and could not help thinking
that it had a peculiarly fine flavour. At this juncture Mr. Merry asked,
if I had seen M. de Lu9ays, and I, of course, answered in the nega-
tive. In a few minutes, however, that gentleman entered the hall, and
after receiving the compliments of the company, he was drawn aside by
Mr. Merry. Suspecting the topic of their conversation, I immediately
followed, and heard Mr. Merry argue the point in a manner which
soon induced M. de Lu9ays to relinquish the business in question, and it
was accordingly stated that no introduction could take place. This in-
telligence was received with evident signs of mortification by all the En-
glish gentlemen present ; but I proceeded, without hesitation, to state
my claims, and, at the same time, represented how greatly distressed
my countrymen were at finding themselves disappointed in the sanguine
expectations they had entertained of seeing, and being introduced to so
extraordinary a character as the First Consul. I also remarked, that
on such occasions it might, perhaps, be more consistent to dispense with
particular forms and punctilios; adding, that if the First Consul were
consulted on the occasion, I was certain he would cheerfully wave all
scruples. To this M. de Lu^ays assented, but as I was aware that Mr.
Merry might yet carry his point, I observed, that the Consul must be
too much engaged on such a day as this to give any attention to the sub-
ject in agitation, and, that even the most trifling delay must terminate
in the universal disappointment of the English gentlemen assembled,
who had visited Paris under the firm assurance of being introduced. In
short, my arguments produced the desired effect, for M. de Lucays im-
mediately replied, that viewing the business in that light, he would take
upon himself the responsibility. Thus terminated a dispute which had

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. I'iS '

hitherto proved a source of infinite vexation, and Mr. Merry, as you
may naturally supj^ose, felt extremely mortified at my unexpected
triumph.

I then repaired to my former station, and, being favoured with an
excellent telescope, I had a perfect view of the evolutions of the troops
assembled in the presence of the First Consul, who was mounted on a
white charger, preceded by four officers in most splendid uniforms, and
followed by a body of Mamelukes richly habited in the oriental style.
Buonaparte himself was dressed in a plain uniform, and a cocked-hat,
simply adorned with the national cockade, which formed a striking con-
trast to the magnificent costumes of his equerries. The populace, being
all uncovered, maintained a respectful silence, and the greatest regu-
larity prevailed, notwithstanding the immense concourse assembled.

The spectacle was certainly very grand, and admirably conducted.
The different dresses of the heavy infantry and the light hulans and hus-
sars were infinitely more superb than those of our troops. I could not
help particularly noticing the excellence of the band, and the consular
body-guards, composed of the remains of that very regiment which
gave the decisive turn to the memorable battle of Marengo. The pro-
cession terminated with the manoeuvres of the Mameluke corps, consist-
ing of about two hundred and fifty men well mounted on light chargers,
but not wearing an}^ regular uniform : their party-coloured costume and
large turbans made them appear (intermixed as they were among other
troops) like beds of tulips in a garden. Their charge was very rapid, but
singular, from which I should not imagine them to be of any great uti-
lity in the field of battle : they are certainly ^ cry brave men, but their
dress is ill adapted to military cAolutions.

The regiment of curiassiers is, at present, only half completed, but

126 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

when the whole establishment is formed, it will be very fit for actual
service in cool climates, though ill adapted for hot ones.

The evolutions being all gone through, after a period of about two
hours, the several regiments filed off before the Consul, who did not
quit the ground 'till he had thus passed every corps in review.

After waiting some time, the doors were thrown open, and it M'as
announced that the First Consul was ready to receive us. We accord-
ingly made our entree, forming part of a well-dressed crowd of all na-
tions. Buonaparte first entered into conversation with the Portuguese
ambassador, and then proceeded round the circle, conducting himself
with great affability towards each individual who was introduced to him.
When he came to the English, most of Avhom were in military or na-
val uniforms, he addressed himself in particular to those who had been
in Egypt. When it came to my turn to be presented, he noticed my
medallion, and enquired into the meaning of it. I told him, the le-
gend was the Triumph of Truth, and that the medallion had been pre-
sented to me by the soldiers of the West-York militia, when I was
Lieutenant-Colonel of that regiment, as a testimony of their esteem for
myself and family. Buonaparte immediately replied, with great anima-
tion, " Colonel, I admire such men;" and addressing himself to Mr.
Merry, he continued, " be pleased. Sir, to inform your countrymen,
that I highly esteem their nation." He then proceeded regularly round
the circle, conversing with every one, as I have before stated.

With respect to the person of Buonaparte, he is about five feet two
inches and a half in height, and well-proportioned, but rather stooping.
His complexion is sallow, his hair brown, and his eyes of a greenish
hue, strongly indicating the constant pressure of important business on
his mind. But his countenance, which I had a full opportunity of ex-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCll. 127

amining, is very animated ; in his manner he appears quick, and dis-
covers great energy in all his decisions.

All the English retired highly gratified with this levee, and, on their
adjourning to a sumptuous dinner at Verri's, I Avas, by their unanimous
votes, called to the chair, from whence I gave, among other toasts,
" Monsieur De Lucays." This produced an immediate request from
the company that I would represent to that gentleman the high sense
they entertained of the honour conferred by his kind interference in the
business of their introduction, and they considered themselves bound
to acknowledge his urbanity and consideration in the most public man-
ner. I was also entreated to request his attendance the ensuing dav to
partake of a dinner, which was accordingly ordered. In the e^'ening
we were agreeably amused with a brilliant display of fire-works, and an
illumination of all the principal edifices in the city.

Next morning I waited upon M. de Luyays, and delivered my mes-
sage in form; upon which he assured me, that the First Consul, on
being acquainted with all that had passed between Mr. Merry and mj'-
self, had expressed his entire approbation of my conduct, and had even
desired that I might assure my countrymen of his esteem and protec-
tion. I consequently delivered this flattering message at our dinner of
thanks ; but, unfortunately, some business of importance prevented M.
De Lugays from joining us. We Avere favoured, however, with the
company of Monsieur De Bois, formerly an advocate, and now pre-
fect of the police, Avho was pleased to approve of my conduct on the
late occasion, and assured me that I might rely upon receiAing every
testimony of respect from the government. Our repast Avas rendered
peculiarly pleasant b)^ the mirth and conviviality of the company, and
in the CAcning Ave retired to the mansion of a rich Hamburgh merchant,
Avhere I Avas introduced to several sporting gentlemen, and in particular

128

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

to Monsieur Emites de Souveraine, whom I had previously heard ex-
tolled for his knowledge in every thing relating to field exercises.

Having now completed my account of our excursion to Versailles,
and endeavoured to give you some idea of the difficulties I encountered
in obtaining an audience of the first Consul, and of the flattering atten-
tions which I afterwards received, I shall close my letter with assuring
you that I am.

Yours, Sec.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 129

LETTER Xir.

Eremonville. — Picture of the Transfiguration at the Music central des Artes.
— Bagatelle — An early Visit. — Seat of Monsieur Beaumarche.— Prince of
Contis Estate. — Singular Toast given at a Pic-Nic Party by Tom Paine. —

Excursion to Meudon. — Mr. P an unskilful Charioteer. — The Butchers

Dog. — Meudon. — Beautiful Prospect of the adjacent Country.

MY LORD, Paris, August 31, 1802.

X HE day subsequent to the date of my last letter was devoted to pay-
ing visits, and making preparations for our intended journey into the
Touraine, which was to have taken place on the following Sunda\^, but
I was afterwards induced to postpone my departure in consequence of
an invitation to one of the finest seats in France, and distant about fif-
teen miles from Paris. From the description of this place, I imagined
it to be the same where I had hunted many years back, with the Prince
de Conti.

We set out from Paris next morning for Eremonville, the very place
I was so desirous of seeing. Our party consisted of myself, Mrs. T — ,
Monsieur Belanger, a very celebrated architect, and Mr. Bryant, who
took with him his implements for drawing. We proceeded through the
forest of Vincennes, which is under the protection of the existing go-
vernment, and is intended to be laid out in walks for the amusement of
the Parisians.

VOL. I. ■ s

130 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

After ascending a steep hill, and noticing several extensive parks
v/hich belonged to the ci-devant noblesse, we entered the forest of Ere-
monville, and, notwithstanding the road had been rendered extremely-
bad by the passage of some heavy artillery from Strasburg, we soon ar-
rived at the chateau, which I perceived was prepared for sale ; and, if
I may not pronounce it one of the most commodious houses in this,
country, it is, at all events, large enough, though not on too extensive
a scale for the establishment of a gentleman's family. Its situation is
so low, that there is little or no prospect from the ground-floor; but, on
ascending to the upper apartments, we were gratified Avith the view of
an extensive wood, containing some trees of a prodigious size, and em-
bosoming a magnificent lake of three hundred and sixty acres of water.
The wood is cut into avenues Avhich seem to have no termination, and
at the extremity of the lake is a decoy for ducks, now almost destroyed,
but there are a few birds still remaining.

On the right of the park, which was formerly adorned with a profu-
sion of venerable oaks, there are plains of arable land comprising fifteen
hundred acres; and the view is bounded by an old abbey and two or
three straggling houses that belong to a neighbouring village. The
most objectionable part of this estate is the soil, which is cold and
spungy, and consequently unfavourable to the cultivation of grass. I
must also observe, that here are no rising grounds, nor even dry lands
for cattle to retire to in wet weather; a circumstance which must reduce
the value of the estate, notwithstanding the combined attractions of the
house, park, and water. The gardens contain about twelve acres within
the walls, and are well stocked with fruit; but here, as in all the French
gardens, a hot-house has never been thought of

After partaking of an excellent dinner, and some capital Champaign,
I ordered the carriage ; and, whilst it was getting ready, amused my-

^

v$

V
V

^ !

\

'X^

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 13 [

self with another view of the expansive lake, while the setting sun
cast a tint of peculiar richness over the circumjacent scenery. The pre-
sent proprietor of this estate, who purchased it on speculation, has con-
verted all the saleable timber into money, leaving only Avhat was orna-
mental. He has also disposed of the fish, among which were some pike
that sold at a very high price. I am certainly inclined to think that
Eremonville might be made an excellent purchase; and had the soil
been either sandy or gravelly, I should not. have hesitated for a mo-
ment. I intend to examine several other estates, and then form my
decision; as this is certainly the time for strangers to lay out their mo-
ne}^ to advantage.

Our horses being jaded, we did not return to Paris 'till near twelve
o'clock at night; and then I had the mortification to hear that my friend.
Colonel St. Brice, had called during our absence, under the idea of
dining with me.

Next morning that gentleman sent me a message, intimating that a
wolf-hunting party would take place on the Saturday; and as my depar-
ture from Paris had, in a great measure, depended on that circumstance,
I immediately sent him word that I would do myself the pleasure of
dining with him at Bagatelle, a house offered to me as a purchase, and
let until it should be disposed of My messenger having returned with

the information that Col. St. B would expect me and ail mv suite,

I sauntered out to the museum, where, having an order for priA ate ad-
mission, I saw the celebrated picture of the " Transfiguration" under
the hands of the cleaner. It is almost impossible to form a correct
judgment of this picture in its present situation, as the scaffolding raised
for the convenience of the artist prevents its being seen to advantage.
But, from the imperfect view I had of it, I think I may safely pro-
nounce it an invaluable production.

s2

132 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

After making some enquiries respecting the progress of my copier,,
with M horn I had e^'ery reason to be satisfied, I returned home to dress,
and then proceeded to Bagatehe, situated at the farther end of the Bois
de Boulogne. The entrance of the Bagatelle, with the pleasure-grounds
and out-buildings, exhibit an uncommon air of neatness even in its pre-
sent state ; but far short of what it must have been formerly, or Avould
again appear if inhabited by a man of taste and fortune.

After partaking of an elegant dinner with my friend, who rents the
chief part of the premises, we strolled over the grounds, which are laid
out very tastefully; for within a circumference of about thirty acres are
woods, Avalks, gardens, lawns, riA^ers, rocks, and caverns. From the
vicinage of the mansion, also, there is a very picturesque view of the
bridge of Neuilly, while the Seine beautifully meanders through the
country. On the opposite side, the scenery resembles that to the south-
west of Chesterford, one of the finest coursing countries in the world.

After taking leave of Monsieur and Madame St. Brice, a select party
of gentlemen agreed to sup with me, and we did not part before a bet
Avas made between Mr. Tripper and Mr. Fitzmaurice, to decide whether
the latter gentleman having stuck his sabre in the ground could, at the
distance of fifteen yards, divide it with a pistol-ball, once in three shots.
The sum mentioned was fifty guineas, to be expended in a dinner, sup-
per, and ball ; and I was appointed umpire on the occasion.

Next morning I called on Monsieur de Lu9ays, in order to arrange
some matters preparatory to my departure, and that I might expedite
the business, I made my visit about half past seven ; but I was really
astonished at finding myself ushered into the bed-chamber. Upon my
apologising for the intrusion, hoAvever, M. de Lu9ays very good-naturedl)'
desired me to sit down, and immediately entered into a general conver-
sation, after which I fixed a day for resuming my journey.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. t33

Returning to my hotel, I noticed a house on the Boulevard, the for-
mer residence of Monsieur Beaumarche,* "vrhich, though whimsically
built, must have cost a considerable sum of money, as it is, in every
respect, fit for the aceommodation of a large family. It was offered to
me at a very moderate price, and I am not yet certain whether I shalb
decide in fa^^our of this or Bagatelle. I ought to have infoniied you,
that Bagatelle was built in consequence of a wager between the Count
d'Artois and the Prince de Conde, that it should be completed in sixtj^-
four days. The bet, however, was lost, notwithstanding the stone and'
other materials were brought on horseback, for the sake of expedition..
It is said to have cost eight hundred thousand livres, and is an everlast-
ing monument of the extravagance of the French court, as. well as of
him who built it.

After viewing Mr. Beaumarche's hotel, on which he has expended a
very considerable sum, the next object of my enquiry was that of the
Prince of Conti's estate. The weather proved propitious, and although
I had passed the road before, it now aiforded fresh gratification. The
scenery is particularly beautiful, and from the summit of a gentle accli-
vity appear the Bois de Vincennes, and the river Marne, westward of
which are two enclosed forests, formerly the property of the Duke de
Bourbon, the whole producing a most charming effect.

We saw several coveys of partridges, wliich convinced me that the
breed is by no means destroyed, and we also got a transient ^iew of the
park, but, from what we could see of it, I am inclined to think the late
possessor Availed it for the purpose of hiding its defects.

* This beautiful house, which faces the site of the Bastille, was built by the Count d'Artois for
one of his mistresses ; but, as he did not wish his name to appear in tlie transaction, he consigned it to
M. Beaumarche as tlie legal proprietor. At the period of the revolution, Beaumarche took advan-
tage of this circumstance, and appropriated to Liraself the property which was iijerely nomiaal.

134 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE,

On enquiring- for the key of this park, I met with a very respectable
gentleman farmer, who invited me to partake of his dinner, which was
just ready; but I could not comply, on account of my engagement with
Mr. Fitzmaurice. However we stopped some time to refresh our horses,
and, in the course of conversation, I asked whether he remembered my
being on a hunting party with the Prince of Conti about twenty years
back? He said, he had a faint recollection of the circumstance, but the
distresses of his patron, with his own imprisonment, and the unkind
treatment of the present owner of the estate, had destroyed his peace
of mind, and greatly affected his memory. He then added, that he
understood I was a sportsman, and if I would return in the course of
three weeks, I might amuse myself on his grounds as much as I chose,
the farm consisting of about five hundred acres. He also said, that if I
made any purchase in his neighbourhood he would, for one hundred
guineas, give me the right of constantly sporting on his domains. I
discovered, in the course of conversation, that land is valued here at
sixteen pounds per acre.

In the park I saw two strange figures, a male and female, driving forty
or fifty cows of the Swiss breed; but how they were fed, unless in the
forest, I could not conceive, there being no appearance of any pasture
lands.

Various delays prevented us from reaching Paris 'till six in the even-
ing, when I found that Mr. Fitzmaurice was unable to receive me, in
consequence of an unfortunate fall from his horse. We therefore dined
at Roberts's with a ver}^ agreeable party of gentlemen, who afterwards
agreed to take a few glasses of punch at my hotel, where Mr. Fitz-
maurice's forfeit-money was paid, as the bet between him and Mr. Trip-
per could not now take place.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 135

I had been invited to a pic nic party, and though I could not attend,
a particular friend who was there mentioned a curious circumstance,
which 1 shall now communicate to your lordship. One of the party
happened to be the famous Tom Paine, who, upon being asked for a
toast, gave the following: —

" England for Liberfi/, America for Happiness, but Paris alone fo^r Pleasure."

While the bottle was circulating, Paine allowed that he had been pro-
scribed by the Americans as well as the French, but that Robespitnc
was not so infamous a character as was generally supposed, from his
reigning during a system of anarchy and terror. He said he did not
believe there were virtuous individuals enough existing to render the vil-
lage of Pichmond, in Surrj^, a pure republic, for that every man, ex-
cept the First Consul, was to be bribed. So much for the sentiments
of republican Paine, who has certainly had a sufficient share of expcr
tience to render him a tolerable judge of equality. This little anec-
dote, however, will give your lordship an idea of the freedom of speech
at this period in the metropolis of France.

It had been proposed by M. Belanger, the preceding evening, that
we should make an excursion to Meudon, a fine park comprising twenty-
one miles within its walls ; and represented to me as a most desirable
purchase. A cabriolet had been fixed upon as the most agreeable car-
riage for the expedition. This was accordingly procured, and Mr. P^
formerly an officer in the royal nav}', undertook the management of the
reins; but his unskilfulness subjected us to several disasters, such as
running foul of a butcher's-shop, and driving against the corner-stone
of an angle where he had intended to shew his dexterity. Once,
indeed, we were very disagreeably involved through his inattention, for.

..136 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

while we were looking at the distant castle of Meudon, he drove
against a butcher's cart, when, however peaceably the butcher him-
self might be inclined, his dog flew at the carriage with such fury:,
that our horse soon became unmanageable, and ran away with the most
dangerous rapidity, 'till we were, at length, fortunately stopped on the
ascent of a hill.

The chateau of Meudon,* formerly the residence of Madame de
Pompadour, is an immense pile, and although sadly dilapidated, it still
retains some marks of its ancient grandeur and importance. In a fine
park, ornamented with forest-scenery, jeta cfeaux, and ponds of water,
we were politely received by the concierge, or keeper, whose mansion
might still be rendered a very respectable residence. This person led us
over the chateau, and particularly pointed out to our attention the apart-
ment which was last inhabited by the unfortunate dauphin. I had not
sufficient time to explore the park, but my guide informed me that it com^-
prised farms, plains, &c. to the amount of five hundred acres, with ten
thousand acres of forest annexed. He said, the walls had been partly
destroyed, by order of the late king, to give the game an opportunity
of escaping; but that they had since been repaired. He also stated,
that there were twenty-nine pieces of water of various dimensions, and
immediately conducted me to one, containing about nine acres, walled

* This chateau was originally built for the Cardinal of Lorraine, by Phillibert de Lorme, in the
reign of Henry the Second of France. It afterwards underwent many alterations and improvements,
and at length became the residence of Madame de Pompadour. Various old descriptions of the
environs of Paris notice this castle as being embellished with every thing that could render it worthy
the residence of a monarch ; a striking contrast to its present neglected and ruinous appearance.
The neighbouring village of Meudon does not, in itself, boast any thing worthy of observation ex-
cept the remains of a Capuchin convent; but the adjoining quarries are celebrated for yielding beau-
tiful stones, two of which appear in thegrandyncac/cof the Louvre, each measuring fifty-four feet in
lengtli !

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 1,57

in, and partly surrounded by woody scenery, but the formality of its
shape rendered it by no means an agreeable object. I understood that
there were a few fish, some hares, and rabbits, and a tolerable number
of partridges on the estate, but all the pheasants have been destroyed.
The chateau, as I before stated, is entirely in ruins, and the taking it
down would be attended with very considerable expence, as the cement
of old buildings is peculiarly hard ; but, in point of extent, and its mo-
derate distance from the capital, Meudon would certainly prove a va-
luable acquisition. Indeed, I plainly perceive, that it will not be a
difficult matter to make a purchase, of which I am so desirous, in this
country ; but the security (the only circumstance to be apprehended)
must, of course, regulate the price.

After amusing ourselves for about four hours, we returned to the car-
riage, and passed another piece of Avater, excluded from the view of
Meudon, which it might have been formed to command. We then
entered on a fine lawn, planted on each side with curious exotics, that
app'^ared in tolerable preservation. As I looked at the old palace, how-
ever, I could not help recalling to my memory those inimitable lines of
our immortal bard, —

" The cloud-capt tow'rs, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself —
Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve,
And, like the baseless fabric of a vision.
Leave not a wreck behind."

From this spot is seen one of the finest landscapes in France ; the forest
of Boulogne rearing its majestic head in the fore ground, while the Seine
appears beautifully meandering through the neighbouring plains, and
beyond the metropolis is faintly discernible the venerable forest of St.
Germain, bounding the distant prospect.

VOL. I. T

138

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

For the present I shall bid you adieu, but design to resume my jour-
nal in the course of a few days, as no pleasure can surpass that of cor-
responding with so invaluable a friend, and of subscribing mj^self^

Yours, &c.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.. 139

LETTER XIII.

Hospital of Invalids. — Monument of the Marshal of Turenne.-^Church of
Notre Dame. — Another Visit to the Musee Central des Arts. — A private
Ball. — Favourite Dances, and thinness of the Ladies' Dresses. — Delicacy
with which the JValtz is performed by the young Parisians. — Paris a most
desirable Residence for a Man of Fortune — Justly called an Epitome of the
JVorld. — Traiteurs. — Oi'igin of the Restaurateurs. — Departure from the

Capital. — Estampe. — Mereville. — Orleans — The Cathedral — Alarket-place

Cotton Manufactory — Principal Articles of Trade.

iMY LORD, Orleans, Aug. X6, 1802.

On our return from Meudon we went to the celebrated Hospital of
Invalids. The chapel, now called the Hall of Victory, is an elegant
building, and is ornamented with a profusion of banners, taken, durino-
the late war, from the various enemies of the republic. A gentleman
of our party obsennng a battered English standard among this assem-
blage, remarked to a veteran, " I see you have got poor England anion o
your trophies of victory" — " Yes, Sir," replied the old soldier, " but I
fear you have plenty of ours."

At one end of the hall is a painting of the commencement of the re-
public, and the destruction of monarchy : the crown and sceptre are
broken, and Liberty is represented as trampling on the breast of Royaltv.
Over, this picture is a noble organ, and under the columns that stand on

t2

140 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

each side, are some fine delineations of the hattles of Louis the Four-
teenth. At the other end, is a flight of marble steps leading to an ele-
gant vestibule, the roof of which is adorned with allegorical paintings,
and the floor consists of the finest marble.

There are four rooms at the respective corners, hung with Gobelins
tapestry, and intended to represent the four quarters of the globe. The
bed-chambers, kitchens, and offices, are all clean and commodious, and
we were shown some rooms where linen is kept for eight thousand sol-
diers. The First Consul has presented to this institution an excellent li-
brary, with general liberty for its use.

I must not omit remarking, that in the chapel of this hospital repose
the ashes of the noble IVIarshal Turenne, which were conveyed thither
with great pomp on the 23d of September, 1800, by order of the Con-
suls. When the royal vaults of St. Denis Avere broke open in 1793,
and most of the coffins v/ere melted down for bullets, the lawless ban-
ditti that committed the daring outrage, seemed to respect the memory
of this illustrious hero, Avhose corpse was found so completely perfect,
that even the features seemed to have undergone but little change, and
bore a striking resemblance to the busts and pictures of him which are
still extant. The monument (first removed to the museum of French
monuments, and afterwards to this chapel), represents Turenne in the
arms of Immortalit}^ attended by Wisdom and Valour. The bas-reliefj
which is in bronze, represents the marshal in the act of making the ce-
lebrated charge at the battle of Turckheim in 1675. He was killed by
a cannon-ball, near the village of Saizbach, in the sixty-fourth year of
his age.

We next visited the church of Notre Dame, which did not answer
the expectations I had formed of the principal religious edifice in the
French metropolis. The choir, indeed, is very handsome, and behind

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 141

it are the remains of several chapels which fell under the revolutionary
fury. The confessionals and the finest monuments have been utterly
destroyed; the violated sepulchres sfiU continue open ; and, in fact, no-
thing is visible but bare walls, and traces of the most detestable outrage.
A melancholy contrast to the period when this Gothic pile was regarded
with reverential awe, and its chapels crowded with devotees, whilst the
most elaborate productions of the pencil graced the walls, and the nu-
merous altars groaned beneath the weight of relics that were here en-
shrined in gold and jewels. The church is, at present, undergoing some
repairs, and the workmen employed in cleaning the roof are fearfully
suspended in baskets while they perform that operation.

From Notre Dame we proceeded to the Mimce Central des Arts, of
which I have before spoken, but the more I see of it the more am I
convinced of the impossibility of communicating any just idea of that
astonishing collection of paintings which the fortune of war consigned
to the French nation at Rome, Venice, Bologna, Parma, Placenza,
Florence, Turin, and Modena. Suffice it, therefore, to say, that at
one coup d'ceil the amateur is feasted v/ith the most sublime productions
of a Raphael, Paul Veronese, Rubens, Leonardi de Vinci, Caracci,
Titian, Salvator Rosa, Andrea Sacchi, Guercino, Van Dyck, and many
other celebrated artists ; and that the blaze of geiiius, if I may be al-
lowed the expression, produces such a dazzling effect upon the senses
of a spectator, that it requires a long and unremitting attendance before
he can possibly give to each performance its just tribute of admira-
tion.

After sauntering for some time in the Palais Royal, Ave returned to
our hotel ; and in the evening went to a private ball, where the German
Waltz was the prevailing dance. It is impossible for me to pass over in
silence this favourite diversion of the Parisians, as every night in the

14S SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

week affords public and private dances, and the waltz is universally
held in the highest esteem. On entering the ball-room an Englishman
recently arrived, must be greatly surprised at the dress, or, more pro-
perly speaking, the undress of the ladies. I had heard many observa-
tions on this subject, to which I could not yield implicit credence, but
ocular demonstration precluded me from remaining any longer sceptical.
You would certainly be astonished to see a hundred, or a hundred and
fifty women, of different ranks and ages, vying with each other in a
prodigal exposure of those charms which our virtuous ladies are so care-
ful to conceal : yet such is really the case. Naked necks, backs, and
shoulders, are universally exhibited in the ball-room, and the form being
only concealed hj a transparent petticoat, leaves scarcely any thing to
imagination. How different must be the ideas of the modern French
ladies from those of the poet, who beautifully observes,

" The fancy will paint what we cover with care,
And double each charm we conceal."

On intimating my surprise to a female acquaintance, she assured me,
that the young men of the age were so accustomed to this shameless dis-
plaj^, that they regarded it with perfect indifference, and that even the
most gross sensualist did not consider such scenes as affording acny grati-
fication. This is surely calculated to enforce the remark contained in
the above quotation, and to convince the fair sex, that modest}^, con-
cealment, and retirement, will ever attract, while their opposites repel,
the admiration of every man possessing real taste and genuine sensibi-
lity. It is but justice, however, to remark, that the young men of
Paris perform the waltz with a delicacy that does them much honour ;
for I have frequently seen them, in compliance with custom, encircle in
their arms the most beautiful women, almost reduced to a state of nu-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 143

dity, and yet have sufficient command over themselves not to violate
the strictest rules of decorum. Yet, notwithstanding this circumstance,
and the general admiration of this amusement in Paris, I think the
vraltz will never be introduced into the public or private assemblies of
Britons ; at least, if its introduction ever should take place, it must cer-
tainly be pruned of those lascivious movements, which are here consi-
dered as the most delightful part of the exercise. Every thing, how-
ever, depends in a great measure upon habit, and it is vain to argue in
contradiction to established forms and customs.

The dance most in fashion after the waltz is what we, in England,
term a cotillion, but it is here stiled the contre dance. With respect to
the ladies dresses I must here observe, that the prevailing fashion was
introduced by the celebrated IMadame Tallien, who, sometime since,
appeared in public with sandals on her legs, a diamond-ring on each of
her toes, and a loose robe, called Diaphane, or transparent.

I shall take this opportunity of observing, that, in my opinion, Paris
is the most desirable place in the world for a man whose purse is suffi-
ciently replenished to bear him through the numerous pleasures which
continually present themselves, and court his participation.

There is no doubt but every country has its particular excellencies,
luxuries, and enjoyments ; but Paris has the superior advantage of unit-
ing in one focus the various elegancies that are found in all the other ca-
pitals of Europe. To enjoy all these, hov.ever, m ithout suffering the
alloy which results from pecuniary deficiency, I should imagine that an
annual income of ten thousand pounds would be indispensably neces-
sary.

Paris has been frequently called " an epitome of tlie world," and it is
now rapidly advancing to that state of perfection which may give it a
just claim to this appellation. The institution of the Centi-al Museum

[44 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

has considerably augmented its most rational amusements; and the
treasures of antiquity which are continually removing to the banks of
the Seine, must indisputably prove an attraction to scientific men of all
descriptions.

. Independent of these circumstances, Paris possesses within itself the
agremens of life beyond any other country in the universe. The va-
rious wines of the respective provinces, exquisite in flavour, and of a
moderate price, hold out to the bon vivant a temptation of no small
magnitude; every delicacy that can be thought of to ornament the ta-
ble, or to please the appetite, is here easily procured ; and the places of
public amusement are so numerous, that a mere recapitulation of their
names would occupy a moderate volume. Here the admirer of the fair-
sex will find attainable every description of female beauty ; the warrior,
the statesman, and philosopher will never fail of meeting suitable com-
panions ; and, in a word, the favourites of fortune may here command
all that can charm the sense, delight the eye, and entertain the ear.

The traiteurs of Paris have long been famous in the culinary calen-
dar, like the keepers of our taverns and coffee-houses in London. They
not only furnished dinners at their own houses, but occasionally sent
them out to the mansions of such as honoured them with their com-
mands ; and as no person Avas alloM'ed to set up in any line of business
unless b}'^ purchase or succession, they consequently engrossed the whole
profits of this avocation.

About the year 1765, however, a man named Boulanger conceived
the ludicrous idea of opening a shop for restorative soups, and accord-
ingly placed the following inscription over his door : — Venite ad me orn-
nes qui stomacho laborafis, et ego restauraho vos. " Come unto me all
ye that labour in stomach, and I ^^ill restore you." The singularity of
this inscription, the novelty of the trade, and the dearness of the pro-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 145

visions, soon put Boulanger into the possession of a tolerable fortune,
and in a short time many other shops were opened on a similar plan, 'till
at length the term of restaurateur has completely superseded that of
traiteur.

The ensuing morning had been appointed for our bidding adieu to
this seat of pleasure, but we were delayed for some time by a gentle-
man \^^ho had promised to accommodate us with a carriage ; and about
four o'clock in the afternoon he sent an apology, in consequence of
which we immediately set off with M. Belanger, who had politely of-
fered to conduct us to the seat of Monsieur de Lu^ays. We took the
high road to Orleans, and, for the first two posts, I observed a conside-
rable number of vehicles passing and re-passing, but did not notice a
single private carriage.

Having passed a most luxuriant valle}'^, we stopped at Estampes, a
city of Beauce*, situated on the Juine, at the distance of thirteen
leagues from Paris. The town is straggling and ill built ; and we had
the misfortune to put up at a wretched inn, where our host charged the
enormous price of thirty-six livres for a very indifferent supper ; but after
some spirited remonstrances we compelled him to deduct a sixth part
of this sum.

Next morning we proceeded to the little city of Anger\ ille ; and after

breakfast we strolled to Mereville, the seat of Madame de B , whose

husband was one of the unhappy victims that fell under the guilotine.
The mansion comprises two saloons, one of which is seventy-fi^e feet in
length by forty in breadth ; a drawing-room of the same dimensions, a
capital library, a billiard-room, and parlour, all elegantly furnished;
and, upon the whole, it is a most eligible residence for a genteel familj'.

* La Beauce is so extremely fertile in corn, that it has obtained the appellation of Grenier de
Paris. Chartres is the capital.

VOL. I. U

146 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The old house-keeper told us several piteous tales relating to the revolu-
tion, and, indeed, this subject seemed to have engrossed the whole of
her attention.

The park is rather small, but prettily diversified with hill and dale,
which form a striking and agreeable contrast to the flatness of the cir-
cumjacent country. The pleasure-grounds contain several elegant de-
corations, and among the rest we noticed a monument inscribed to the
memory of that illustrious navigator. Captain Cook.

After satisfying our curiosity at this place, we resumed our journey,
and remarked, that the country continues flat, and, in its general ap-
pearance, somewhat like Newmarket, 'till it approaches Artenai; but
there it begins to assume a bolder aspect, and the borders of the road
are planted with trees.

The entrance to Orleans lies through part of the forest of the same
name, but there is nothing particularly striking in the appearance of the
city as seen from the road ; and we were by no means gratified to find
the poorer class of the inhabitants unacquainted with the luxury of shoes,
their feet being, in general, destitute of any covering.

After taking some refreshments we sauntered out to take a view of
the town, the suburbs of which are remarkably similar to those of most
of our English cities.

Orleans is a large and ancient city, pleasantly situated on the Loire,
whose sloping banks are here crowned with a series of luxuriant vine-
yards, occasionally spotted with the chateaus of private individuals.

The cathedral of Orleans is well worthy the attention of a traveller,
being a noble Gothic edifice, and containing some admirable represen-
tations on wainscoting of the most interesting subjects in Scripture his-
tory. The towers, erected by order of Louis XV. are very magnifi-
cent, and, although possessing rather too great a profusion of ornament.

^

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 147

they are certainly very striking features. I am sorry to add, however,
that this cathedral has suffered very materially from the dreadful effects
of the revolution.

In the centre of Orleans is the great square, equally large and hand-
some ; and, at the extremity of the principal street, there is a very mag-
nificent bridge.

Previous to the revolution, the Due de Orleans established a cotton-
manufactory in this city, and confided it to the care of an Englishman,
who has fortunately weathered the political storm, and still carries on
the concern after the English manner, for which he is amply remune-
rated. I must observe, that Orleans is particularly celebrated for the
excellence of its brandy and vinegar, which, with corn and wines, con-
stitute the principal articles of commerce. Here, also, is a capital re-
finery of sugar, accounted the first in the French republic.

The approaching hour of rest now warns me to lay aside my pen ;
and I hasten to subscribe myself^

Yours, &c.

u2

148 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER XIV.

French Roads.— Charming sporting Country. — Castle of Forte Imbault. —
TFool-Fair. — The late Marquis de Piercompt, a Fictim of the Revolution. —
Curtailment of an exorbitant Charge.— Castle of the Marquis de Lu^ays —
Singular Breakfast. — Excursion to the Lake of tlie Forge. — Fishing. — A
laughable Accident. — Home Park. — Natural Gi^ottoes. — Depredations com-
mitted on the Castle. — Shooting.— Col. T endangered by the plunging of

a Blood-Mare. — Return to Dinner.

MY LORD, Paris, Aug. 20, 1802.

W E arose at four o'clock the next morning, and resumed our journey;
but, whilst crossing the river, I could not help regretting, that our route
did not lay along its beautiful banks. The road, for the three first posts,
differed from all I had hitherto seen in France, consisting entirely of
sand and gravel. The usual custom of paving the roads is, however,
attended with many conveniencies, particularly in bad weather, when
the loose texture of the soil, and the want of that attention which is so
liberally bestowed upon our public ways in England, would, in many
instances, render them totally impassible; for, although we are now
travelling in a very dry season, we frequently find, from the want of
materials, and necessary care, that the ruts are above a foot deep.

From the entrance of the Salogne to La Forte Lovendhal, we no-
ticed a very good sporting country, being sandy and woody, and co-
vered with a profusion of broom and heath. At the entrance df La

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 149

Forte we passed the seat of the Marquis de St. Croix, an ancient castle,
with much water in its environs ; and, almost at the same instant, we
overtook the diligence, which, although drawn by eight horses, pro-
ceeded very slowly through the heavy sands.

We drove to an auberge, and breakfasted on tea, eggs, and Sancerre
.wine, for which our landlady made such an extravagant charge, that
Monsieur Belanger thought proper to interpose and insist on a conside-
rable abatement. We then pursued our route through such a country
for sportsmen as I think I had never previously beheld. I conceived,
from the appearance of the surrounding scenery, that there must be a
profusion of game and fish; and, on making some enquiries at La
Motte,* I found my opinion fully confirmed. The soil, though very
sand}'^, as I have already observed, is found, at the depth of twelve
or fourteen inches, to be a strong adhesive clay ; and, indeed, this is
discernible from the extraordinary size of the oaks which grow here in
great abundance.

The river at Salbris is remarkably fine for trout, and still better about
four miles distant. Near this place my notice was particularly attracted
by seeing five croAvs and some small birds ; a circumstance which, how-
ever apparentl)^ trivial in itself, I cannot help remarking, as birds of all
kinds have hitherto been extremely scarce.

Crossing the river at Salbris, where a new bridge is building, we
found the direction of that work entrusted to an officer of engineers,
who was acquainted with Monsieur Belanger, and, from the polite intro-
duction of that gentleman, invited me to pass some time there on my
return, when I might enjoy the pleasures of sporting and fishing.

* La Motte belongs to a merchant of Orleans, who holds three Seigneuries, or Lordships, va-
lued at 60,000 Francs, or 2,5001. sterling. Indeed it appears, from an accurate calculation, that
the whofe tract of country might be easily purchased.

150 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

The old castle of Forte Imbault presented a ruin of so interesting a na-
ture, that I found it impossible to proceed until we had gratified our-
selves with contemplating its venerable walls. The proprietor was very
desirous that we should alight and take some refreshment; but time
would not permit us to avail ourselves of his hospitalit3^ The adjoin-
ing park contains about four hundred acres, but without having upon
it any stock of game.

The annual wool-fair being held on that day, an immense crowd of
people surrounded our carriage, and seemed particularly struck with its
appearance. I made some enquiries respecting the price of wool, which
I found to be about twenty-four sous per pound. I was also informed
that bricks, prior to the revolution, were sold at thirteen or fourteen li-
vres per thousand, measuring four inches by six, but since that period
the price had advanced to one louis.

Forte Imbault castle is a charming residence for a sportsman, the vi-
cinit}'- affording fine hare and otter hunting, with excellent shooting and
fishing. It was said that the late proprietor, the Marquis de Piercompt,
had no less than fifty domains. This I did not implicitly believe, but
both Monsieur Belanger and myself were of opinion, that all the estates
between Forte Lovendhal and Rambuston might be purchased for tAvo
thousand, or two thousand five hundred pounds.

I remarked that junipers abounded throughout the country for three
stages : there were, also, some plantations of birch, oak, alder, larch,
ash, and many other trees, all in a flourishing condition ; but the Scotch
fir does not seem adapted for the soil.

The late Marquis de Piercompt was among the unhappy numbers
who fell victims to the revolution. He was assassinated at Paris, and
his body thro^vn into the Seine, Avhere it was discovered by some fisher-
men, but the murderer still remains unknown.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 151

Continuing our route, a beautiful, but contracted valley presented
itself to our notice, consisting of meadows, highly cultivated corn-fields,
and vineyards, Avhile the river appeared gliding through the most inte-
resting part of the scenery, and the adjacent town of Rambuston ter-
minated the landscape. We next proceeded to an inn, where we met
with wretched entertainment, and, as usual, an exorbitant bill. For
our repast, which consisted of six eggs, some bad cheese, a few unripe
apricots, and one bottle of vin du pays, the auhergiste charged thirti/six
Louis, but was, at length, satisfied with one !

The country continued much the same 'till we approached Salleix,
where we took leave of the sand, and drove through the town, which is
very badly paved. A miller being about to throw his casting-net, I
alighted to observe him, but to very little purpose, as nothing of con-
sequence was taken.

After crossing the extremity of a forest, we discovered the castle of
the Marquis de Lu9ays, and, on driving through a spacious court-yard,
the great bell rang to announce our arrival. We were received wath
the utmost politeness and hospitality by Madame de Lu9ays and her
family; and an elegant supper made ample amends for our bad fare at
Rambuston.

Having agreed that the next morning should be devoted to a ride,
we rose early, and took a view of about three thousand acres of the
estate ; and I was informed that the extent of the forest was nearly four
thousand four hundred acres. The park is tastefiilly laid out in lawns,
and shady walks, some of which are completely imperv ions to the rays
of the sun; and the lakes ai*e displayed in a most admirable manner.
To obtain a tolerable idea of this el3'sian scenerj', you must figure to
yourself an extent of Mater, five miles in length, and half a mile in
breadth, occasionally broken by islands which are clothed with vine-

152 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

yards, and enamelled meads, and fringed with pendant woods, whrlst
the distant view is bounded by majestic forests that occupy from twelve
hundred to tsvo thousand acres.

Here we might, indeed, exclaim in the language of Dyer—

" Before me trees unnumber'd rise,

Beautiful in various dyes :

The gloomy pine, the poplar blue,

The yellow beech, the sable yew,

The slender fir that taper grows.

The sturdy oak with broad-spread boughs

And beyond the purple grove,

Hauut of Pliillis, queen of love !"

Here were some extensive heaths, and a considerable quantity of
strong arable land, but the latter was not half tilled.

Next morning we set out for the diversion of rabbit-shooting in some of
the walks adjoining the castle, which are planted with the finest orange,
lemon, and citron trees, together with a profusion of curious exotics.
Several turtle-doves entertained us with their amorous cooing, but not
a single bird was visible.

On our return we found the breakfast waiting, and as this repast was
entirely different from our mode of laying out a breakfast-table in Eng-
land, I shall subjoin a sketch of it, as an useful hint to some of my
countrymen who are not deficient in appetite :

Red wine. — Peaches. — Apricots. — Ham. — Pears. — Champaign.

Strawberries. — Cream. — Rasberries.

Tench, split and finely broiled. — Haunch of roe-buck roasted. — Eels en papiliot.

Plumbs. — Eggs. — Apricots.

Calf's Head.

White wine. — Coffee. — Chocolate.— Ices. — Liqueurs.

After this substantial repast, we took horse, in order to proceed to a
place called the Lake of the Forge, where we had agreed to fish for

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 153

pike ; but the day proved so extremely sultry that it was five o'clock be-
fore we arrived at the appointed spot. The ladies followed mounted on
asses (a common mode of conveyance in France), and the forge-
master, having been apprised of our coming, had provided an excellent
cold dinner, together with some very fine broiled tench, and red-legged
partridges. The wine, also, was particularly good, and our party fijll
of hilarity.

I must not omit observing, that although our ride had exceeded nine-
teen miles, we were not, at any time, beyond the boundary of M. de
Lugay's estate, which, unquestionably, presents the finest sporting
country it is possible to conceive, abounding with small coverts, and ex-
tensive forests, free from bogs and rabbit-holes.

After dinner, our party trolled in a boat, and I put four fox-hounds
into the lake, being a smooth surface of water, about three miles in cir-
cumference. I soon hooked four fish, two of which I killed, but the
others got off. The fox-hounds, however, caught six pike, weighing
from five to seven pounds each.

The shades of night beginning to steal upon us, we put to shore, and
went to see the forge, the fire of which produced an extraordinary glare
that threw on every countenance the livid appearance of a corse.

Returning through the forest we were entertained with the different
airs of the chase, performed by six huntsmen on French-horns, which
not only beguiled the tediousness of the way, but also served -to direct
us in the route it was necessary we should pursue.

I cannot omit noticing a curious event which happened soon after our

departure from the forge. Mr. Bry^ant, who had never been acquainted

with equestrian exercise, was unfortunately mounted on an ass, which

had long been accustomed to carry a lady. The animal, conscious of

VOL. I. X

154 -SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

the difference of his new charge, expressed his dissatisfaction by braying
in a most vociferous manner.

No light being visible except that which issued from the distant chim-
ney of the forge, our cavalcade proceeded slowly forAvard, each of the
party being occupied with their respective cogitations. By some acci-
dent, however, Mr. Bryant had fallen from his ass unperceived, either
through the obstinacy of the beast, or his want of skill in riding. It
seems, the ass had been allured by the odour of a cabbage-garden, be-
longing to a ci-devant convent, and had hurried our unfortunate artist
into the midst of it, though much against his inclination. Here he soon
lost his seat; but the proprietors of the garden, observing the devasta-
tion which was likely to take place among their cabbages, armed them-
selves with the first implements they could laj^ their hands on, and made
a most furious attack both upon Mr. Bryant and his mischievous pal-
frey. The noise of the animal's running and kicking, and the cries of
its dismounted rider, who, in a jargon of mingled French and English,
called loudly for assistance, excited our attention ; and we immediately
hastened to extricate him from his disagreeable situation, but, notwith-
standing our interference, both himself and the ass were severely bruised
and lacerated. As this scene took place on the entrance of a forest, and
in a very sequestered spot, it might have afforded a good subject for Mr.
Bryant's pencil, and I doubt not but the drawing would have been truly
laughable. The evening, though dark, was delightfiiUy serene and
tranquil, and we returned home in safety.

I rose early next morning, for the purpose of shooting, with M. Be-
langer in the home park, to the south-east of the castle. This consists
of about four thousand acres, inclosed Avith a stone wall, and contain-
ing a great number of cradle-walks, through the vistas of which are

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 155

seen churches, monasteries, farms, and various other picturesque ob-
jects in the distant landscape. Here, also, are some natural grottoes of
surprising dimensions, their roofs being elegantly shaded with trees, and
tlie interior formed into different apartments, where a most refreshing
coolness constantly prevails, and the plaintive harmony of the doves
which nestle amidst the surrounding shades, tends to augment the sub-
limity of the scene. Some of the excavations are said to contain wines
of a great age — a circumstance very uncommon in France.

Diu-ing the revolution, the persons who were sent here, under pre-
tence of guarding the castle, but in reality to seize on the person of
Monsieur de Lu^ay, stole some hundred dozens of the finest wines,
and tore away the iron-railing of the stair-case, and the lead off the
roof, for the purpose of making cannon and bullets.

The orange, lemon, lime, and citron-trees, Avhich adorn the front of
the house, are said to be coeval with the garden itself, which was first
laid out in the reign of Henry the Fourth. From the terrace, overlook-
ing the vale, is a bold, and finely variegated ridge, rendered easy of
descent; and beyond this are seen the lake, the fertile islands, and the
enchanting forest-scenery which I have already noticed; the whole
forming, in my opinion, the most eligible spot in Europe. In the fo-
rest are found abundance of stags, fallow-deer, roe-bucks, wild-boars,
hares, rabbits, pheasants, red and grey partridges, quails, woodcocks,
snipes, and all sorts of wild-fowl.

The scenerj'^ was so enchanting, that I really attended to it more for
the sake of Mr. Bryant's pencil, than for the diversion of shooting.
However the terriers were thrown in, and I shot tA\ o brace and a half
of partridges. I then quitted Home Close, and near the castle, in a
fallow half covered with thistles, the dogs drew, and stood, when a
co^ey immediately rose of three brace and a half I killed a bird with

x2

156 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

each barrel, and marked another brace, which I also roused and killed,
but took particular care not to shoot at the old birds.

Having hunted in the dogs, we saw seven or eight brace of quails ;
got two random shots and three points, and killed them. A leveret
also happened to come near me, which I shot at, and she fell after run-
ning a few yards. The dogs flushed several other coveys, most of which
were red-legged; but as the morning became very warm, and I heard
the sound of the breakfast-bell, I bagged seven brace of partridges, two
brace and a half of quails, and the leveret, and, giving my gun to the
keeper, returned to breakfast.

A pike was now displayed weighing fourteen pounds, which had been
caught the preceding evening. The ladies were all delighted with my
success, and I must do this amiable family the justice to say, they were
evidently anxious that I should enjoy all sorts of sporting in the highest
perfection.

After our repast I went on horseback to inspect some forests of two
and three hundred acres, lying to the south-east of the castle. I took
my pointer with me, and the keeper carried my gun. In some grass I
perceived that the dog drew, and at last stood. I therefore went up to
him, when a covey of red-legged partridges rose, but all dispersed, by de-
grees, one or a brace at a time. I brought down one brace, but thought
them too small, and too near the house, to kill any more. However,
as I had marked several on an adjoining piece of oats, I tried my dog,
and he behaved so as to astonish the keeper.

Having remounted, I rode through a small, but beautiful forest, cut
into rides, and abounding with rivulets. Here I understood were abun-
dance of woodcocks, with some roe-bucks and foxes ; and, in an ad-
joining forest, plenty of wild-boars. I here remarked a greater profu-
sion of heath than I had previously seen in any part of France.

SPORTING TOUR THROTJGH FRANCE. 157

Just as we entered the second forest I saw a bird of a very singular
appearance fly along, and attempted to get a shot at it, but could not.
The keeper did not know its name. This forest is admirably adapted
for wild-boars, being remarkably thick and swampy ; but, on looking
at my watch, I found the time had passed so rapidly, that I Avas com-
pelled to think of returning.

A brace of barren birds, which were basking close to the road, rose
at my approach, and alighted in some corn, where I killed them. The
keeper, at the same time, observ^ed a covey alight about two hundred
yards distant, and I immediately killed a brace and a half, all of which
were strong half-grown birds.

The horses were so dreadfully tormented by flies, that a fme blood-
mare, rode by the keeper, taking fright at the report of my gun, turned
short round, and plunged at me, but fortunately missing her aim, she
only struck the stock of my gun, which was forced with such violence
against the cap of my knee, that I really thought, at first, it had broken,
the bone. However, as the dog was still standing, I hobbled up to him,
and killed an old grey partridge. We then returned to the castle, which
we did not reach 'till near seven o'clock. The family, however, were
not in the least disconcerted at our having kept the dinner waiting, as
my apologies were received with that sweetness which always render the
forgiveness of a fault doubly gratifj^ing.

Here I shall, for the present, take a temporary leave of you, with
the usual assurance that,

I am,^

Yours, &c.

[58 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

LETTER XV.

Trying for Roe-Buck —The Game shot by Col. T '* Air-Gun, and carried

Home xoith great Parade. — BUndmans Buff a fashionable Game. — Black
Peaches. — Excellent Fish. — Charming sporting Estate. — Blois. — Fish-Mar-
]iet. — Barrelled-Frogs. — A Disappointment. — French Language spoken in its
greatest Purity at Blois. — Chambord.—The Park. — Stagnation occasioned
by the Revolution. — Carriage of a singular Construction. — Beautiful Tract
of Country. — Picturesque Ruin. — RochL — French-Horns supply the Want
of a Direction-Post.— Arrival at Le Gedonaire.

MY LORD Le Gedonaire, August 23, 1S02.

Notwithstanding the violent How received on my knee,
I was sufficiently Avell next day to keep an appointment which had been
made for trying in the forest for roe-buck ; and Madame de Lu9ay en-
joined the keepers, previous to our departure, to shew me the best
sport.

I was uncommonly well mounted on an English mare,* whose dam
was said to have been by a very fine horse, which I discovered was a
son of King Herod : but she was rather too warm in her temper, which
does not answer amongst trees. The hounds consisted of only two cou-
ple, and those very indifferent ones. I lamented that mine Avere not
with me, but they were gone to Monsieur de Beaumont's.

* This was the mare from which Col. T received the injury mentioned in the preceding

letter.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 159

After trying for a considerable time, we at length found; and the-
hounds having a good scent, ran tolerably for near two hours, during
which time I only got one view of the game : however, he soon began
to run sheeter; the rings la}^ down; and, as the sun got up, the dew
went off, and the scent, of course, became weaker, I then dismounted,
and took my stand under an oak, intending to have shot at the roe-buck
with the air-gun which had succeeded so well with the wild-boar; but,,
before I could pull the trigger, he was in thick covert.

After a few rings and cold hunting, he came within twenty yards,
when I discharged my piece, and was convinced, both bj^ the springing
and by the sound of the ball, that I had hit him. I gave several \ iew-
halloos, but the company either could not hear, or did not understand
me; though, had I shot with powder, they must liave been apprised:
by the report.

In about twenty minutes a hound came on the scent, but gave tongue-
faintly. I caught him by the ear, and he spoke most feelingly : this
brought up the others, and with them the huntsman, whom I told of
what had happened. He could not, at lirst, believe that I had wounded
the roe-buck; but I assured him of the fact, and desired him to let me
go to the next avenue, and there lay the hounds. He did so,^ and the
dogs evidently enjoyed the scent better. This I thought a favourable
omen, as it, probably, resulted from the dropping of the blood on the
cover. They were bringing the game across the avenue, directly to
me, where I should have had another shot, but I imagine he had either
seen, or winded me, as the scent turned to the right, about two hundred-
yards off. I saw him cross, however, and his shoulder appeared broke,
as he could scarcely get over a gutter.

After I had 1 allced, and the huntsmen had sounded their horns, the
hounds began to run very briskly, and at last there was a dead silence..

160 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

I concluded the buck was killed ; but in this I was mistaken, for he was
at bay, and sometimes attempted to scramble oflP; but, perceiving he
could not go far, I rode before him, and sent a ball between his eyes.

The rest of the company soon came up, and were highly delighted ;
but the keepers could not comprehend the nature of an air-gun, though
they carefully examined the piece and the effect of the ball. It must,
however, in this instance, have shot very weak, or the first shot must
have gone through the deer's head; but it had broken the shotilder, and,
being turned by a bone, had come out through the skin of the neck.
This was deemed very extraordinary, but I once shot a deer, with the
same gun, at Thornville Royal, which was in the action of leaping a
fence : the ball went in at the shoulder, exactly opposite the heart, but
it turned, went along the upper part of the belly, between the skin and
the intestines, and came out at the hock.

The day was now intensely hot, and the flies which surrounded us in
myriads, would soon have saved the cook the trouble of roasting the
game, had it not been carried home. However, being properly
placed on a tray slung for the purpose, and covered with branches, it
was conveyed to the castle with great parade, the horns playing all the
way. The whole family came to the gates to see our game, and about
nine o'clock we assembled at breakfast, to which, I assure you, I did
ample justice.

On rising from table, it was proposed that we should take a nap in
the charming recesses of the orange-grove ; and, when we were sum-
moned to dinner at four o'clock, we were not at all incommoded by the
intense heat, as the apartment was very airy, and rendered peculiarly
pleasant by the proximity of a fine cascade. Coffee and ices were served
in the grottoes of which I have previously spoken ; and about nine
o'clock the fashionable game of blind-man's buff commenced, but I

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. l6l

excused myself from taking any part in this amusement, on account of
a very troublesome cold.

I should inform you that, during the hunt of the morning, a fisher-
man, from the Lake of the Forge, arrived in the forest with the hounds
which I had left at M. de Beaumont's, and with a dog that had been
missing ever since our fishing excursion to the Forge.

In the course of our stroll through the gardens of the castle, I re-
marked some very fine standard apricots, and some curious peaches,*
which were then of a greyish colour, but which I was assured would
be perfectly black when ripe. Here were, also, a great quantit\' of
grape-vines growing against the walls; but these, and, indeed, all tlie
vineyards, have been very materially injured by the frost that prevailed
here in the month of May.

I had been always proud of the excellency of my fish at Thomville
Royal, but I must candidly acknowledge, that the pike, tench, and
perch, caught on this estate are, at least, equal to any I ever tasted.
Here is no trout, however, although the streams appear Avell adapted
for that kind of fish, but the French give a decided preference to
carp.-f-

Mr. Br3'ant took several drawings of the surrounding country, and it
was the unanimous opinion that it far exceeded the estates of Champ
de Battaile, Navan-e, Bissy, Ermenonville, .and Passy ; as this extensive
domain comprises a capital dwelling-house, a marquisate, two earldoms,
with a castle, several ■\illages, monasteries, and abbeys, together with

* The gardener was ordered to preserve a dozen young trees of this description for Col. T
against the ensuing spring.

t The most delicidus carp are found in the Rhine; and when any particular entertainment is
given at Paris, the fish is brought a hundred and twenty leagues, or three hundred and sixty English
miles, by land-carriage, from the city of Hamburgh.

VOL. I. Y

16i2 SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

twelve thousand acres of forest a;nd woodland, fourteen thousand acres
of arable land, three hundred acres of water, and from thirteen to
fifteen thousand acres of fine heath, with plenty of excellent stone and
graA^el. The ponds and rivers are calculated for every sort of fishing,
and present to the sportsman an endless variety of amusement ; in addi-
tion to M'hich there is a complete command over two other forests, and
some very extensive grounds within an hour's ride.

Next morning, after having promised to return as soon as possible,
and to bring with me my pack of hounds, I took leave of Madame de
Lucays and her amiable family, and proceeded towards Blois, accompa-
nied by Monsieur Belanger.

After passing several large streams, we came to a handsome chateau,
surrounded with water, and, from the nature of the adjacent country,
admirably situated for coursing and hare-hunting. Having refreshed
the horses at an auberge, we fell into company with two farmers, w^ho
were going to a sheep-fair near Forte Viden, and, gave me such a fa-
vourable account of it, that I immediately resolved to go thither. Our
road lay through a most delightful country, and we entered the fine forest
of Rossi with an intention to proceed to Cheverney, but we v/ere pre-
vented from putting this plan into execution, by the rapid approach of
night, it being near nine o'clock before we reached the city of Blois,
which is situated on the north side of the Loire, at the distance of six-
teen leagues fi'om Orleans, and about forty-four from Paris.

I rose early the ensuing morning, and went to the fish-market, w^hich
was remarkably well supplied with salmon, perch, gudgeons, eels, floun-
ders, bream, and barbel. Here were also several small baiTels contain-
ing an article called les gremuillcs, which I could not, at first, compre-
hend, but which appeared remarkably clear, white, and tempting :
however, on hearing they were no other than frogs, my favourable opi-

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 163

nion of them was instantaneously changed into disgust. I purchased
some apricots at the rate of three-halfpence per dozen, together with
some excellent figs, green-gages, jurgenelles, and cluster-grapes; but
the latter were scarcely ripe,

A gentleman who had a small estate to dispose of, came to offer it to
me. It consisted of a good dwelling-house and garden, seventy-two acres
of land, fourteen of meadow, tAv elve of vineyard, and thirty-six of til-
lage, together with a walled-park ; the annual rental of which might be
about 1201. For this estate, situated two miles distant from Blois, the
owner required eighty thousand francs.

Next morning I rose at four o'clock, in order to hunt fox, and after-
wards to shoot rabbits, as had been agreed on the preceding evening
between myself and the Marquis de St. Denis, who had promised to
apprise Lieutenant-General Pousse that we should take this amusement
in the great park of Chambor. Some delays prevented me from set-
ting out 'till near five, and I was consequently apprehensive that I
should keep the sportsmen waiting. This fear, however, proved entirely
groundless ; for, on my arrival, I found nobody stirring except a ser-
vant, who informed me that he knew a letter had been sent to the ge-
neral, but that I was not expected. 1 then repaired to the house of the
marquis, but had the mortification to find he had previously set out, by
a cross-road, to meet me ; and, after several messages had been sent to
and fro, every thing terminated in our sitting down to a good family-
breakfast.

It was now both too late and too hot for hunting, but the family
seemed very desirous that I should try for partridge in the park. Un-
derstanding that no relays could be procured at Blois, I proposed that
our servants' horses should be made leaders : this was immediately
agreed upon, and the marquis and marchioness, a young gentleman,

y2

164 • SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

their cousin, Mrs. T , Mr. Bryant, and myself, got into the car-
riage, and pursued our route (after crossing the river) through two thou-
sand acres planted with vines, which seemed remarkably healthy, al-
though they had been greatly checked by the early frosts.

Before I take leave of Blois, I must remark, that the French language is
there spoken in its greatest purity, it having been the constant residence
of men of family, but of small fortune. This circumstance has rendered
it one of the most agreeable places in France for an Englishman, as
the pleasure of respectable society becomes attainable without that pro-
fuse expence which is its constant attendant at Paris. The fine old
bridge that formerly stretched across the river has been demolished dur-
ing llie late troubles, but a new one is now erecting. The city * is of
great antiquity, but my short stay has precluded me from giving you
an account of it. I must observe, however, its commerce is very con-
siderable.

After riding some time, we arrived at the famous park of Chambor.
The entrance, on the south side, is rather mean, the road bad, and
the water choaked up ; but we soon came to some sylvan scenery lead-
ing to a bridge, where a little inn, held by one of the under-keepers,
commands a view of Chambor, -f- the most magnificent pile of Gothic
architecture in France. It was originally built by Francis^ the First,
but had many additions made to it when it became the residence of the
celebrated Marshal Saxe. At present, however, there is nothing re-
markable in this edifice but the beauty of the architecture, the interior

* Here is a very magnificent palace, formerly the residence of the kings of France, and the place
where the famous Due de Guise, and his brotiicr^ Cardinal de Lorraine, were assassinated, by order
of Heury the Third, in 15SS.

t Chambor was offered to General Pichegru, with several other advantages, in order to bring
him over to the interest of Louis XVHL

V

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE. 165

having been completely gutted during the revolution. The surrounding
scenery is, also, an entire waste, presenting nothing to the view but a
few straggling houses, and rivers which

" No more reflect the claj%
But, clioak'd with sedges, work their weedy way."

After partaking of some cold provisions which I had fortunately
brought with me, I mounted one of the keeper's horses, and, in a ride
of four hours, examined the park. The woods are certainly fine, but
the soil is very indiiferent ; and the devastations M'hich have been com-
mitted during the reign of anarchy fill the contemplative mind with me-
lancholy reflections. I must also observe, that very few deer remain
out of the thousands that formerly grazed on this domain. My terrier
flushed a large covey of partridges, and the huntsman killed a hare and
a snipe, which he presented to me. I then rejoined our party, and
agreed to put up at the house of one of the keepers, where we had the
pleasure of meeting some charming women. The conversation, how-
ever, turned principally upon the revolution, and I understood that the
depression and stagnation of every thing had been so great since that
period, that scarcely a single carriage could be procured in the adjacent
city.

Mr. Bryant having taken a view of Blois from the opposite side of
the bridge, we rose early next morning, and seated oiu-selves in a car-
riage which was on a different construction from those generally used
here. A pair of shafts were in the centre, and three horses placed
abreast, which obviated the necessit)^ of foiu' horses : there was, how-
ever, another servant, and we had also one postillion. This vehicle is
very rapid, and, as our baggage was considerably reduced, a pair of
horses, in England, would have been sufficient.

166 SPOETING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE.

Our road lay through a fine country, for the most part flat, but oc-
casionally diversified with coverts, woods, and distant forests, together
with some luxuriant valleys of pasture-land, through which a river is
seen beautifiUly meandering, and diffusing fertility all around. Indeed,
the landscape was so enchanting, that we found it impossible to proceed
without requesting Mr. Bryant to make it the subject of a drawing.

After passing two elegant chateaus, admirably situated for the amuse-
ments of fox-hunting, beagling, coursing, and liaAvking; we had a view
of the castle of Vendome, with which we were highly gratified, ^^'^e
then put up at an inn, the landlord of which brought us some remarka-
bly fine trout and eels, and informed me, that the fine estate called La
Rebochere, the property of the Marchioness de Quiroire, was to be dis-
posed of, and that the sum demanded for it was five thousand pounds,
which was a ten years purchase, the annual rental being five hundred
pounds.

On quitting Vendome, which is seven leagues distant from Blois, our
road lay through one of the finest countries that can be conceived, and
our landlord was, probably, inclined to make us pay for the enjoyment
of its beauty, as he took care, previous to our setting out, to charge,
at least, four times the value of every article Ave had consumed.

A ruin, which appeared to be that of an old church, soon attracted
our attention, and formed an object so highly picturesque, that Mr.
Bryant alighted to take a sketch of it, whilst I recalled t^ my recoikfe-
tion those beautiful and appropriate lines of Cunningham, —

" Inexorably calm, with silent pace,
Mere Thne has past — what ruin marks his way !
This pile, now crumbling o'er its hallowed base,
Turn'd not his step, nor could his course delay.

SPORTING TOUR THROUGH FRANCE, 167

" Half-buried tlicre, lie many a broken bust,
And monument and urn o'erthrown by time;
And many a cherub, there, descends in dust,
From the rent roof and portico sublime."

Having passed the village of Roche, where many of the houses are
formed out of excavations in the rocks, we came to a fine stream of
water, reputed to contain abundance of large trout. One of the inha-
bitants of Roche was engaged in the diversion of fishing, but I found
no reason to admire his skill.

We now proceeded, by a cross-road, towards Le Gedonaere, the
hills being completely covered with woods and vinej^ards. On entering
a small village, well watered and surrounded with rich meadow-land,
one of the horses lost a shoe ; and whilst this was replacing we walked
forward, and soon met a geenteel-looking man mounted on an ass, who
told us, in answer to our enquiries, that we were in the direct route to
M. de Beaumont's mansion. He also stated, that he was intimately ac-
quainted with Monsieur de B , of whom he spoke in the most re-
spectful terms, and observed, that in his youth he had very nearly taken
Fi'ederic the Great, King of Prussia, prisoner.

After travelling for some time in view of a luxuriant valley of grass —
a sight rather uncommon in France, — the shades of night began to over-
take us, and we arrived at a spot where several roads met. We were,
therefore, undetermined as to what route we should pursue, but, on
hearing some French horns playing the Death of the Fox, I directed
the postillion to follow the sound, and, by this means, we soon reached
the place of our destination, where we experienced the most welcome
reception.

J 68

SPORTING TOUR TPIROUGII FRANCE.

As the traveller always requires rest after a long journey, I must now
conclude tliis letter with an assurance, that I shall take the earliest oppor-
tunity of resuming my narrative.

Yours, &c.

INDEX.

VOLUME I.

A.

ABELARD and Heloise, sepulchre of,
183.

Acacia, plantations of, 112. Descrip-
tion of, ib. note.

Accident, a laughable, 153.

Agriculture, French, remarks on the, 59'

Air-gun, description of the, 70, note.

Anecdote of an aubergiste and an English
ambassador, 47 — Of the Duchess of
Burgundy, 64.

Ankar, captain, politeness of, 10.

Apollo Belvidere, statue of, 104.

Attention, particular, shown to Col. T —
by the Parisian soldiery, 75.

B.

Bagatelle, description of, 132.
Ball, a private, at Paris, 141.
Band-box, altercation on the subject of

a, 29, note.
Barren birds, 157-
Bastille, site of the, 78.
Beagles, observations on the breeding

and properties of, 4.
Beaumarche, Monsieur, hotel of, 133.
Beaumont, General, governor of ^'^er-

sailles, 64.
Bet between INIessrs. Tripper and Fitz-

maurice, 132.
Beugnot, Mons. prefect of Rouen, 28.
Bissy, ruins of the chateau of, 52.

VOL. I.

Blindman's-buff, a fashionable amuse
ment in France, 160.

Blois, purity of the French language at^
164.

Blood-niare, Col. T endangered by

the plunging of a, 157-

Boar-hunt, account of a, 37.

Botanical garden at Rouen, 26 — At Ev-
reux, 51— At Paris, 81.

Bourbon, le Grand, 64.

Branitsky, the Polish prince, interview
with, 82.

Breakfast, a singular, 152.

Brighton, description of the country in
its vicinity, 3. — Remarks on the town,
6. — Prince of Wales's pavilion, ib. —
Assembl^'-house and public libraries, 7.
— Hot and cold baths, ib.

Buonaparte, First Consul of France, his
habits of life, 100. — Col. T — 's intro-
duction to, 126. — Remarks on his per-
son, ib.

Burgundy, Duchess of, anecdote of the,

Burleigh, a magnificent seat of the Mar-
quis of Exeter, 2.

Carp, delicious, found in the Rhine, 16S,
note.

Carriage, Col. T — 's admired at Brigh-
ton, 4. — Description of it, 29, note. —
A singular, 165.

z

INDEX.

'Carriages, wretcliedj iu France, l6.
Cartier, Monsieur, prefect of Dieppe, 18.
Castle of Forte Imbault, 130.— Of the
Marquis de Lii§ays, 151. — Depreda-
tions committed on it, 155.
Cauclioises, curious caps so called, 15.
Cerries, Anglois, 57.
Cliace, France well adapted for tlic, 96.
Cliambord, park of, l64.
Champ de Bataille, 38.
Chancer}', suits of, delay attending, 101.
Charge, exorbitant, for a breakfast, 46. —

Curtailment of a, 151.
Charioteer, an unskilful, 135.
Chateau of the Marquis de Conflans, 48.
— De Navarre, 50.— La Roche de Je-
nor, 56. — Of M. Taleyrand Perigord,
ib.—di M. de Vande Morrell, ib.—0{
the ci-devant Duchesse d'Orleans, lOQ.
Cider, Normand}', 34.
Clock, a curious, formerly shown in the

cathedral at Rouen, 22.
Clo5 de Voujaut, 94.
Cloud, St. Brief account of, 114.
Coasts, striking similaritj between those

of Brighton and Dieppe, 11.
Cote rotie grapes, why so called, 40, note.
Country, a fme sporting, 148.
Curiassiers, a regiment of, 125.

D.

De Bois, Monsieur, 127.

Delay, a vexatious, 121.

Dieppe, embarkation for, 7. — Debarka-
tion at, 11. — The harbour of, 14 — The
pier and quays, ib. — The town and its

environs, ib. — Inhabitants, 15. — De-
scription of the adjacent country, 20.

Dinner, account of a, given by the sports-
men of Rouen, 39 — a I'Alemagne, 111.
— A sumptuous, ai Verri's, 127.

Direction-post, the want of a, supplied
by the sound of French-horns, l67.

Dresses, thinness of the ladies', at Paris,
142.

Duroc, General, governor of the Tuile-
ries, 75.

Eggs, coloured, 26. — Laughable remarks
of an Hibernian gentleman respecting
them, ib.
Elbocuf, 38.
Environs, striking difference between

those of Paris and London, 76.
Equipage, travelling, description of Col.

Thornton's, 29, note.
Eremonville, the forest and chateau of,

130.
Ermenonville, excursion to, 85.
Estampcs, 145.
Estate, a fine sporting, l6l.
Estates, national, remaining unsold, 108.
Evreux, some account of, 49.
Excursions from Paris, 109.

Farm-house, accommodations at a, 31.
Fire-arms, manufactory of, at Versail-
les, 67.
Fish, excellent, l6l.
Fishing, at the Lake of the Forge, 153.

INDEX.

Forge, Lake of the, 152.

Forte Imbault, the castle of, 150.

Fox-hounds, number and names of, taken
by Col. T to the continent, 29, note.

Fox-hunt, account of a, in the Forete
Verte, 33.

French-horn, General Ruffin's perform-
ance on the, 30.

Frescati, 83. — Genteel company at the,
100.

Frogs, barrelled, lG2.

G.

Gardening, the French style of, very
faulty, 50.

Germain, St. Forest of, 57. — The town,
58. — The palace, ib.

Gobelin's manufactory of tapestr^', 81.

Godart, Mr. visit to, 36.

Government, conversation with an aged
Frenchman respecting the, 58.

Grosbois, estate of Gen. Moreau at, 96.

Grottoes, natural, 155.

Gun of a singular construction, 9- — Tiial
of, at water-fowl, 10.

Guns, enormous prices given for, 67. —
Trial of between Col.T — and the direc-
tors of the Versailles manufactory, 69.

Gun-makers, Parisian, 78.

H.

Henry IV. of France, statue of, 107.

Holiday, a public, 45.

Honours paid to Col. T — by the soldiers

and seamen at Dieppe, 11.
Horse, a beautiful Hungarian, presented

to Col. T — , 37.

Horses, post, number of, regulated by the
number of passengers, 17. — Miserable
appearance of the French, ib. — A mar-
ket for, held on Sunday, 24. — Norman-
dy famous for the breed of, 31. — Those_
of Normandy said to be restive during
the cherry-season, 57- — General fault
in shoeing, Qb. — The famous Venetian,
at the Tuileries, 80.

Hunting fox, 33. — Wild-boar, 37.— Roe-
buck, 90.

I.

Jack-boots, 17.

Joanne d'Arc, burnt alive at Rouen, 24.
Institute, national, 108.
Interruption, an unexpected, 44.
Invalids^ hospital of, at Paris, 1 39-

L.

La Cloche, George d'Amboise, 22.

Lamadelaine, Mens, maj-or of Evreux, 49.

Landscape, a beautiful, near Meudon, 1 37.

La Tour de Beurre, or Butter Tower, 22.

Lauragais, Count, 112.

Liberty, trees of, at Dieppe, IS. — At
Rouen, 25.

Louvetier, Grand, an honourable appel-
lation, 32.

Louviers, 48.

Lucays, M. de, prefect of the Tuileries,
120. — Castle ot^, 151.

M.

Macdonaid, General, 89-
Mamelukes, a corps of, in the service of
Buonaparte, 125.

INDEX»

Manege, school of the, at Versailles, 65.
Manners, diversity between those of the

French and English nations, \6.
Manufactory, Versailles, call at the, 98.
Market, fish, at Blois, l62. — For horses,

at Rouen, held on Sunday, 24.
Marly, the palace, gardens, and water-
works of, 63.
Mereville, chateau of, 145.
Merry, Mr. interview with, 121.
Meudon, the chateau of, 136.
Militia, English, Col. T — 's father the

first projector of the, 1 1, note.
Molineaux, Sir Capel, 121.
Monastery, ruins of an ancient, near

Rouen, 43.
Montmorenci, 87.

Moreau, General, 89. — Madame, 94.
Motte, La, 149.

Musee, central des arts, 79, 141.
Museum of French monuments, 101.
Museum of paintings, 106. — Picture of

dead game, ib. — Plan of copying the

finest pieces, 107.

N.

Narbonne, the Archbishop of, a distin-
guished sporting character, 49-

Navarre, the chateau of, 50.

Notre Dame, cathedral of, at Rouen, 21.
— Church of at Paris, 140.

O.

Oats, a remarkable show of, near Vau-
dreuil, 47.

Opera, dancers and singers at the Pari-
sian, 101.

Orleans, 146. — The cathedral, ib. — Cot-
ton-manufactory, 147. — Articles of
commerce, ib.

Oysters, enormous, 10. — Green, 39-

P.

Paine, Tom, conversation of, at a pic-nic
party in Paris, 135.

Palais Royal, account of the, 77.

Paris, arrival at, 72. — Public walks, 76.—
Diifferent appearance of the environs
from those of London, ib. — Palais Roy-
al, 77. — Riding-house, 78. — Site of the
Bastille, ib. — Musee central des Arts,
79. — Improvements at the Tuilleries,
ib. — Botanical-garden, 8 1 . — Gobelin's
manufactory, ib. — Frescati, 83. — Mu-
seum of French monuments, 101. — Gal-
lery of statues, 104. — Statue of Henry
IV. 107.— Hospital of invalids, 139- —
Church of Notre-Dame, 140. — Justly
called an epitome of the v^orld, 143.

Passport, a flattering, obtained from M.
Otto, 3.

Pastures, luxuriant, in Normandy, 31.

Peaches, black, 16 1.

Pelerin, Mons. interview with, 76.

Peregaux, M. principal banker of Paris,
75.

Picqueurs, French, 32.

Piercompt, the late Marquis of, a victim
to the revolution, 1 50.

Pisse, a wall so called, 36.

Pitt Place, 9-

Poker, a gun called the, 69-

Pont Chartrain, 89-

INDEX.

Pont de I'Arche, 45.

Poplar, the Lombard, improperly chosen
for the tree of liberty, 26.

Porcelain, the Seve-manufactory of, 120.

Poussin, some account of, 49, note.

Prerogative, a singular, of the Archbi-
shop of Rouen, 25.

Property of tlje French noblesse transfer-
red to plebeians, 53. — Extensive, of M.
de Etalier, 95. — National, value of 1 1 1.

Q.

Quails, hunting, 33.

R.

Remarks, general, on the French roads
and accommodations, 74.

Rendezvous in the Forete Verte, 32.

Restaurateurs, origin of the, 144.

Review, Consular, account of the, 125.

Revolution, effects of the, on French
gaiety, 45. — Stagnation occasioned by
the, l65.

Roads, French, remarks on the, 74, 148.

Roche, village of, 167-

Roe-buck, trying for, 158. — Shot by Col.
T — 's air-gun, l60. — Carried home with
great parade, ib.

Rouen, approach to, from Dieppe, 20. —
Description of the town, 21. — Cathe-
drals of Notre-Dame and the Blessed
Virgin, ib. — Church of St. Ouen, 22. —
Bridge of boats, 23. — Marche aux
vaux, 24. — Market for horses held on
Sunday, ib. — Singular prerogative of
the archbishop under the old regime

25. — Theatres, ib. — Botanical garden,

26. — Aspect of the adjacent country, 42.
Rouennerie, manufactory of, 26.
Rousseau, Jean Jacques, house of, 87. —

Manner of conducting his remains to

Paris, ib. note.
Ruin, a picturesque.
Rye harvest, interesting appearance of the

Scenery, rural, magnificence of, on the
continent, 44.

Sepulchre of Alexander de Farnesse, 23.
— Of Abelard and Heloise, 103.

Seaux, park of, 109.

Shooting water-fowl, 8. — Rabbits, 152. —
Quails, 156.

Shooting-excursion, in the vicinity of
Rouen, 35.

Shooting-match, at the Versailles manu-
factory, 117.

Skettles, a favourite recreation among the
French officers, 72.

Sportsmen, similarity of character be-
tween those of Normandy and York-
shire, 32. — Effeminate, observations
on, 89.

State-cabin of a packet-boat, 8.

Statues, gallerj' of, 104.

Sully, Due de, some account of the, 53.

T.

Table, a curious dining, 40.

Tallien, Madame, 113.

Tapestry, Gobelin's, 82.

Tea, introduction of, at uiidniglit, 95.

INDEX.

Theatres of Rouen^ 25.

Thornville, Royal, 1.

Toads, fish so called, 10.

Toast, a singular, given by Tom Paine,

135.
Toasts, English, difficult to be explained

to the French ladies, 93.
Traiteurs, 144.

Transfiguration, picture of the, 131.
Tree of liberty at Dieppe, 18. — At Rouen,

do.
Trianon, Petit, some account of, \\6.
Trying for game, observations on, 92.
Tuileries, improvements at the, 79- —

Strangers excluded from the palace, 12 1.
Turenne, Marshal, a monument of, 140.

V.

Vaudreuil, chateau of, 47.

Vegetation, climate of France, pecuharly
favorable to, 45.

Vendome, the castle of, l66.

Vernon, brief description of, 54.

Versailles, the palace of, 63. — Curious
table shown in the gardens, 64. — Large
orange and lemon-trees, ib. — Statues on

the side of the park, ib. — Divisions of
the palace, 66. — Sporting subjects
painted for the late king, ib. — Singular
custom observed with respect to visit-
ants, 67. — Paintings, 115. — Opera-
house, and bed-chamber of the late
queen, ib.

View, delightful, from a hill in the vici-
nity of St. Ouen, 43.

Vincennes, forest of, 129.

Vineyards, appearances of, near Vernon,
54.

W.

Walks, public, rendered unpleasant by

the dust, 76.
Waltz, the German, how performed by

the Parisians, 141.
Water, triennial draining of, 86.
Wheat-ears, 7.
WHiips, enormous, used by the French

postillions, 18.
Whitworth, Lord, Col. T — mistaken

for, 123.
Wines, French, a list of, 99.
Wool-fair at Forte Imbault.

JAMES CUNDEE, PRINTER,
IVV-LANE, PATERNOSTEB-ROW.

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