Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN SPORT IN NORWAY. SPORT IN NORWAY, WHERE TO FIND IT. TOGETHER WITH A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY. TO WHICH IS ADDED, A LIST OF THE ALPINE FLOKA OF THE DOVRE FJELD AND OF THE NORWEGIAN FERNS, &c. REV. M. R, BARNARD, B.A., LATE CHAPLAIN TO THE BRITISH COXSULATF. "HKISTIAXIA, NORWAY. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICCADILLY. 1864. [The right of Translation is reserved.] LOXDOX- PKISTKD Kf WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFOR1> STREET AND CHARING CBOS-S. PROFESSOR RASCH, KNIGHT OF ST. OLAFS, F/TC., OF THE CHR1STIAMA UNIVERSITY, THKSK I'.ViF.S ARK AFt'KCTIONATELV DEDICATED, BV HIS SINCERE FRIEND, THE AUTHOR, 2000425 PEE FACE. IN the first part of this little volume it will be my endeavour to make the reader acquainted with the resources which Norway offers to the angler and the sportsman. To do this the better, I have described each Amt (province) in turn ; and have, moreover, as far as was possible, given the routes to the various rivers. Hitherto a certain degree of mystery has hung, as it were, over the salmon rivers of Norway, and erroneous reports have, in consequence, been circulated concerning them. These reports have assumed two opposite forms ; the • one, that every yard of water is leased, and is in the hands of Englishmen, and that a man " might as soon expect to get a seat in Parliament, as to obtain any salmon-fishing in Norway;" and the other, that he has nothing to do but to set foot in the country, X PREFACE. when he will find salmon waiting to be caught in every river. I need not say that these " opposite poles of belief" are both of them erroneous. The first, I presume, owes its origin to those who, knowing well the magnificent sport that is to be had in some parts, have adopted the plan of keeping such knowledge to themselves and their own immediate circle; while the latter is the natural reaction of the former. There is no question but that the lest parts of the best rivers are "taken up" for longer or shorter periods ; but that a man, who is blessed with a good constitution, who does not object to locomotion, and who does not mind " roughing it " a bit, cannot meet with very fair sport, experience has shown me to be a fallacy. And, what is more, it frequently happens that the latter may meet with better sport than the former ; for the one is necessarily a fixture, while the other can move from place to place, and try his luck in many waters. It is more especially for this class of sportsmen that the following pages are intended; and while I fear some of the former will not be pleased at my revealing facts which have hitherto been kept very dark, I am PREFACE. XI inclined to think that they will be favourably received by many good and time men, whose knowledge of sport in Norway has hitherto been too vague and limited to justify them in incurring the expense and trouble of a trip there. Let me, however, seize an early opportu- nity of warning my readers against forming too exalted notions of the sport a visit to Norway may be likely to afford them, as a great deal of disappointment may thus be saved. In a word, no "pot-hunter" should go to Norway. On the other hand, if a man delights in glorious scenery, if the fresh mountain air and the free life form the principal charm, and he can be contented with a fair amount of sport, and will not grumble if "the water is in bad condition," or all the ryper gone to anywhere else but where he happens to -be, then 1 think a trip to Norway will do him incalculable good both in body and in mind. By the permission of my friend Dr. Schiibeler, of the Botanical Gardens at Christiania, I am enabled to give my readers a short account of the " Vegetable Pro- ductions of Norway." And as many of those tourists who visit Norway have no one especial object parti- cularly in view, but who fish a little when they can, Xll PREFACE. take up gun or rifle when an opportunity occurs, or collect specimens of wild flowers and ferns when they can find them, I have added for their especial benefit, under the title of 'Botanical Rambles on the Dovre Fjeld,' (with the permission of the late talented Professor of Botany, Herr Blytt,) a list of the Alpine Flora that may be found growing there, together with »• some tours which will be the most likely to repay the trouble of the collector ; and have also given a short account of the ferns of Norway, which latter I am glad to see Mr. Bennett is bringing before the notice of the English public in a very practical way. In conclusion, I would only add that I can insure the authenticity of all that is herein stated, and that it has been my great object to avoid drawing too bright a picture of the resources the Fjelds, Forests, andEiversof the country are capable of affording.* * The Author will be much obliged for any corrections or altera- tions which personal experience may suggest. GENEEAL INDEX. DEDICATION. PAGE PREFACE is INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 1 CHAPTER I. Finmarken Amt 7 Nordlands Amt 17 North Throndhjems Amt 23 South Throndhjems Amt 30 Romsdal Amt 35 North Bergenhuus Amt 46 South Bergenhuus Amt .. 53 Staranger Amt 57 Lister and Mandals Amt 60 Nedenses Amt 64 Bratsberg Amt 65 Jarlsberg and Laurvig Amt 69 Buskeruds Amt 70 Christians Amt 73 Hedemarken Amt 75 Agershuus Amt 82 Smaalehnenes Amt 85 CHAPTER II. The Wild Reindeer and Elk of Norway, their History, Haunts, and Habits 86 Game Laws 157 CHAPTER III. The Feathered Game of Norway 1 58 XIV GENERAL INDEX. CHAPTER IV. PAGE Bear aud Lynx Hunting 180 Tabular form showing the number of bears killed in each Amt from 1846 to 1860 189 - CHAPTER V. Ou the Artificial Breeding of Salmon 193 CHAPTER VI. Sketches from Saetersdal 207 CHAPTER VII. The Vegetable Productions of Norway 236 CHAPTER VIII. Botanical Rambles on the Dovre Fjeld, &c 276 Appendix 331 ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF THE KIVEES. PAGE PAGE PAGE Aardals Elv 47 Figge.. .. .. 58 Nid . . ; . .. 32 Aaro 47 Fjelna. . .. 44 Nid . . .. 64 Aasta 79 Gei ranger . . .. 38 Nord .. .. .. 32 Alten . . 13 Gjendals .. 19 Nordals .. 32 Andro 25 Glommen . . .. 75 Orkla . . .. 31 Augna 25 Gudvangeu .. .. 48 Osen .. 79 Aurlands . . 48 Guul .. .. .. 30 Otta .. .. .. 73 Ausnass 29 Hadelands . . .. 74 Otteren .. 64 Balsfjord . . 15 Hallingdal . . .. 70 Ougne .. 58 Bais 18 Hartvig .. 18 Oy .. .. .. 26 Baevra 44 Haukla .. 31 Pasvig 9 Bstvra 74 Herdals .. 38 Qviuna .. 63 Beieren 19 Horningdals .. 50 Ranen .. 19 Bergsdal 55 lisf jord .. 41 Rauma .. 40 Birkedals 37 Jacobs 8 Reisen .. 14 Bjerkedals . . 20 Jostedal .. 47 Rena .. 77 Bors 13 Laagen .. 73 Rombaken . . .. 18 Braagna 26 Langdals .. 38 Rytsaa .. 20 Dalen 20 Las . . .. 12 Salten .. 19 Dokka . . 73 Lerdals .. 46 Sanddola .. 28 Drammen 70 Lilledals . . .. 42 Skaugdal . . .. 32 Eina 31 Lira .. 63 Skjeggedals .. 54 Elvegaards 18 Logen . . .. 69 Skjeggedals .. 65 Enningdals 85 Maals .. 16 Sogndal .. 58 Eridsf jord 41 Maan .. 86 Sogne .. 62 Etne 53 Mandals .. 62 Sordals .. 32 Etnedal 73 Mista .. 78 Staavil .. 31 Exiugdal 56 Nam sen Elv .. 26 Staburs .. 13 Figge or Lods Elv •25 Neiden 1 0 i Steenkiaer . . .. 24 XVI ALPHABETICAL INDEX OF THE RIVERS. I'AGE PAGE PACK Steindals . . ;!•> Taborsnaes . . .. 13 Valdalen . . . . .",8 Steindals .. 54 Tal fjord . . 38 Valders .. 73 Stor .. .. . . 19 Tana . . 10 Vanelven . . . . 37 Stor .. .. . . 50 Tengs . . 58 Vardals .. 21 Stordals . . 23 Thyda . . 35 Vairdals .. 24 Stordals . . :S2 Todalen . . 43 Vefsen .. 20 Stiyen . . 50 Topdals . . 61 Vigelands . . .. 58 Suledals . . 58 Tomsdal . . 61 Vik . o5 Sundals . . 42 Trysil or Klar . . 78 Vingdals . . .. 44 Surendal . . 43 Undals . . 62 Vosse . . 55 Svinna . . 43 SPORT IN NORWAY, AND WHERE TO FIND IT. INTKODUCTOBY BEMABKS. THE tourist who visits Norway for the second time will in all probability omit to take with him some articles which he found encumbrances on his first journey, and bring others which he had previously omitted. I will therefore devote a few lines to the necessary " impedi- menta " which my own experience and that of others has suggested to me, and which may prove of service to the new-comer. But first a word or two as to the route. Two steamers (screw) leave Hull for Christiansand and Christiania, one every Friday night ; the " Scan- dinavian," belonging to Messrs. Wilson and Son, Hull, and the " Ganger Rolf," a Norwegian boat. Having travelled by both of these, I should give my preference to the former, though the latter is an extremely good and clean boat, and Captain Gloersen and the first mate are most gentlemanly and obliging officers. B 2 SPORT IN NORWAY. Captain Fairburn, of the " Scandinavian," has been a sailor for upwards of sixty years, and is well up to his duties, and, what is more, extremely attentive to them. His employers will lose a good servant when- ever he retires into private life. An attentive steward and stewardess will be found on board, and the cuisine is all that can be desired. The average passage to Christiansand takes about forty-eight hours, and it requires from about seventeen to twenty more to Christiania. The fere is £4 ; return tickets, available for the whole season, are £6. There are also two steamers running between Hull and Bergen, one every ten days, I believe. The fare, if I mistake not, is £3. As most of the travelling in Norway is done en carriole, I should recommend a strong deal box in preference to a leather portmanteau, which does not get improved from the " sky ts-boy " sitting on it. It should have a waterproof cover to guard against rain and dust, which latter enemy will otherwise penetrate through every little chink. Some leather straps should also be taken, sufficiently long to fasten the said box securely on to the dash-board behind, and leathern loops should be fixed on the covering for the straps to pass through. Next, a leather carpet-bag, which should be protected also with a waterproof cover, the opening being on the side, not on the top. This can INTKODUCTIOX. 3 lie between the traveller's feet in the bottom of the carriole. And lastly, a knapsack, which will be found very useful in making short tours of a few days. I have seen some very good ones in Christiania, fixed on a light wooden frame, so as to prevent them rubbing against the back, and thus allowing a free current of air to pass between. A long waterproof coat, and fishing-boots, or water- proof gaiters, and a sou'-wester ; also a brown holland over-all, to keep the dust out in hot weather, should be taken. And lastly, the services of a large-sized cotton umbrella, to be used either as a parapluie or parasol, will be found very acceptable. As to clothes, each one must please himself ; only, it is a great mistake not to take warm clothing. And, if I may be allowed to add, every gentleman should provide himself with a presentable suit. I have seen some of our countrymen parading the streets of Chris- tiania dressed in the most shabby manner. Indeed, it is a current joke among the Norwegians that the English come out there for the purpose of wearing out their old clothes. Mr. Bennett, of Christiania, supplies tourists with carrioles, harness, bottle-cases, &c., at a moderate price, taking them back when returned at a certain deduction previously fixed upon. Thus all the inconvenience of having to shift carrioles at different stations in the inte- 4 SPOET IN NOKWAY. rior, and of standing the chance of getting your inside shaken out in the rough peasant-carts will be obviated. It will be well to pay attention to the way in which he fastens the rods, &c. Mr. Bennett also provides bags for dogs, which, fastening underneath, form a very comfortable and convenient bed. I would recommend the traveller to do without an interpreter, if possible. I fancy that by " cramming " up a hundred words or so of Norsk beforehand, the ser- vices of these expensive nuisances maybe dispensed with. As regards the battery, a double gun, large bore, and a rifle will be sufficient. They should both go in one case, which should also be protected with water- proof covering. The rods should be very carefully packed so as to prevent chafing ; a leather case will be found very convenient, though I prefer a wooden one. No tourist, be his object what it may, should go without a light trout rod ; one that will do up in a small compass. I have bought very compact ones at Gowland's, in Crooked Lane, and have great pleasure in recommending this shop. The experienced salmon- fisher of course knows pretty well what he should bring, and I would only, therefore, take the liberty of recommending him to bring plenty of tackle, and to have an ample supply of line, flies, and plaited casting-lines. He will also bring a trout-rod or two. And I would further recommend every one to equip INTRODUCTION. 5 himself with spinning baits, &c., and to take a long and strong line for trailing out behind him when he is travelling by boat-skyts. I have known good sport to be had in this way, and it serves, moreover, to relieve the monotony of a long row. As to dogs, I should fancy a setter in preference to a pointer ; but this must of course be a matter of choice. Provisions can be procured in all the large towns ; but I should recommend any one who purposes to stay some time up in the country to provide himself with sundry essences of vegetables, such as celery, &c. ; also cayenne, mustard, spices, &c. They can be procured at Fortnum and Mason's, and will be found extremely useful articles hi the fisherman's cuisine, who will often (always is best) have to act as his own cook. For one soon gets tired of salmon, however diversified it may be in the manner of preparing it. By the way, a bottle or two of Worcestershire sauce,* &c., should not be omitted. The steamer usually arrives in Christiania early on the Tuesday morning. The Victoria Hotel is decidedly the best, and is, indeed, one of the most comfortable foreign hotels I ever put up at. * The following recipe for sauce for cold salmon, copied from the ' Field,' will be found very good ; experto crede. " Three tablespoonsful of cream, one ditto of vinegar, one ditto of Worcestershire sauce, one teaspoouful of mustard, one ditto of white sugar, to be well mixed." 6 SPORT IN NORWAY. I would venture to lemind all tourists that Divine Service is performed every Sunday morning at eleven o'clock in a convenient building near to Mr. Bennett's house, and that the Church Establishment is supported by voluntary contributions. Finally, I would strongly recommend every one to lose no time in consulting Mr. Bennett after his arrival in Christiania. This gentleman, who has for many years studied the requisites of the English traveller, and who is most kind and courteous (and therefore not unfrequently treated scurvily), will supply all the information that can be needed. N. B. Every traveller should provide himself with a good map of the country, with Bennett's "Hand- book," price two marks, and with plenty of small change, before leaving Christiania. CHAPTEE I. FlNMAKKEN AMT. THIS Amt, which is the northernmost and largest in Norway, is bounded on the north by the North Sea ; on the north-east by Kussia ; east by Sweden ; south by Nordland, and west by the sea. It is divided into four Fogderies — Tromsen and Senjen in the south, Alten, Hanunerfest, and E. Finmarken • and contains a superficial area of 59,778 square miles. Magnificent salmon-fishing is to be had here. But before beginning to speak of the rivers, it will be best to devote a few lines to the route. There are two ways open to the traveller's choice : the first, by disembarking at Christiansand and waiting for a steamer to the north, for I do not think they correspond. It is a tedious and monotonous journey. In the first place, it occupies eight days and a half from Christiansand to Throndhjem. From this latter place to Hammerfest it takes a week, and from Ham- 8 SPORT IN NORWAY. merfest to Vadso in the Varanger Fjord about three days. In all, therefore, about eighteen days and a half, at least ; and this may be considerably increased in stormy weather. Another route is by going to Christiania, and tra- velling by carriole across the Dovre to Throndhjem. And this part of the journey may thus be done in shorter time (and, moreover, give the traveller the opportunity of seeing Gudbrandsdal and the Dovre Fjeld) than by steamer northwards from Christiansand. Thus, it requires but one day from Christiansand to Christiania — usually seventeen hours — and the journey from hence to Throndhjem can be done comfortably in four days. Sportsmen bound for the northern rivers must bring tent and canteen with them all complete. A stock of provisions, tea, sugar, spirits, &c., had best be laid in either at Christiania or at Throndhjem. Musquito curtains will be found a luxury, and a veil and gloves are quite necessary for fishing. If the gloves, more- over, are too thin, they will not prove a sufficient protection. A friend of mine had the shape of the glove beautifully impressed upon his hand; for these plagues had stung it through every stitch. I will begin at the extreme north-east of this Amt. JACOB'S ELY is on the Kussian frontier, and runs into the mouth of the Varanger Fjord. It is an ex- FINMARKEN AMT. 9 cellent salmon river. As far as I can learn, it lias never been fished ly any Englishman. I have been informed that the river literally swarms with salmon ; but as a set-off against this, that the Laps do a great deal towards spoiling the fishing by netting. It can easily be reached from Vadso by boat-skyts, a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles. Here a tent is absolutely requisite ; provisions, too, must be taken, and an in- terpreter, and an arrangement should be made with the same boatman before leaving Vadso. PASVIG ELV, a few miles to the west, runs into Kloster Fjord, a collateral branch of the Yaranger Fjord. Capital fishing may be had here. Salmon are only able to run up about three miles and a half, as a foss prevents their further progress. But below this some excellent sport may be had. But few English- men have ever fished here, I am inclined to think. A tent is not absolutely necessary, though always desirable. Boat-skyts can be taken from Vadso to Piselvnaes, where a hunter named Clark resides, who is, I believe, of English extraction. He is a prodigy of a linguist, speaking seven different languages, I have been told. He is also Lensmand of the district, and can give excellent information as to fishing and shooting in general in this Amt. The English sports- man'who purposes fishing either in this or in Jacob's Elv, will do well to make Mr. Clark's acquaintance 10 SPORT IN NORWAY. as soon as possible, and request him to make arrange- ments with the boatmen, &c. In general, the boatmen require about half a dollar a day each. The fish, with the exception of what is consumed, should be given to the inhabitants. There are two small rivers on the opposite shore of the Varanger Fjord, south of Vardo, but I have not any information concerning them. The NETDEN ELV, on the same side as Pasvig Elv, can easily be reached from Piselvnass. Tents are «/ necessary. The river abounds with fish, and can be fished many miles up. The TANA ELV. This magnificent river can be reached from Stangenaes, where the steamer stops. This station is one day's journey short of Vardo, and is about three miles distant from the mouth of the river. Boat-skyts should be taken from Stangenses to Fjeldma, where it will be well to make inquiries of the Foged, Lensmand, orKjbbmand (merchant). Boats peculiar to the river are used in order to pass the fosses. Arrangements, too, should be made with the Foged, or with Herr Schanke, Inspector of the Fishery, as to what payment will have to be made for leave to fish. This will probably not amount to more than a few dollars per week, unless the price has been raised of late, which is by no means unlikely. A tent is absolutely requisite, and a good stock of provisions FINMAEKEN AMT. 11 should be taken. Fins should be employed for skyts- foli, and for interpreters. With these preliminary remarks, and only adding a recommendation that it is best to avoid landing a fish on the Eussian side of the river, I will proceed to give a brief account of some of the best places. Salmon run up to a distance of two hundred miles ! The first foss is Seida Foss, about forty miles up the river ; the second, and the best on the whole river, is Galgo-guoika, or Kjsering Foss. The next foss is about seven miles higher up, at the mouth of the Utsjok river, where good quarters may possibly be had at the house of the pastor. The next foss is at the mouth of the Lewojok river, and the next at the mouth of the Valjijok river. After this, not many good places will be found till arriving at the Lappish village, Karasjok, or further up, in Anar Elv. At the above- named places magnificent sport may be had. Salmon of a very large size are taken, and long lines and stout tackle are absolutely requisite. At Karasjok a visit will probably be paid to the Lensmand, especially when it is mentioned that this gentleman has a capital cellar of wine, and, moreover, English beer and porter — no despicable treat in these northern latitudes. He is extremely hospitable. If he be not at home, the tra- veller has still permission to help himself, and can either leave the money there, or pay it to any Handels- 12 SPORT IN NORWAY. mand or Lensmand in Finmarken. Such liberality is of course beyond abuse ! Above Karasjok good fishing may be had at Assebakte. A friend of mine, who has had much experience on the river, told me that he found 9 — 11 P. M., and 1 — 6 A. M. the best times for fishing. It little matters when one sleeps in those sunlight nights ! In calm, sultry weather, the musquitoes are very troublesome : the atmosphere at times is so thick with them " that it is almost possible to cut your name out among them " a gentleman told me. It requires a little manoeuvring to keep them out of the tent. The best plan is, on entering, to close the entrance as quickly as possible, and then to commence "blowing a cloud," when they will congregate in the top of the tent, and can thus more readily be disposed of with a damp towel, or bough of birch wood. LAX ELY is at the bottom of the Porsanger Fjord, and is about eighty miles east of Hammerfest. It has not a very large body of water. The banks are but thinly inhabited, so that a tent is quite necessary. Salmon run up about thirty-five miles. The steamer stops at Kistrand, about twenty-five miles from the mouth. Men should be engaged at Kistra, and some arrangement be made about the fishing. Information can be obtained from the Pastor, Foged, or Handelsmand. This river will be too small to remain there all the FINMARKEN AMT. 13 summer. The fishing commences about ten miles from the mouth. The STABUBS ELY, about ten miles distant, can also be tried; and the TABOESN^S ELY, a little to the left, about fourteen miles distant, can also easily be visited. And lastly, the BORS ELY, opposite to Kistra, will at least afford some first-rate sea-trout fishing. There is a small river at the bottom of Eep Fjord, about twenty-five miles north of Hammerfest, which, I am told, is worth trying. The ALIEN ELY is a fine salmon river, running out into Alten Fjord. Magnificent sport has been had in it. The whole of this river is leased for a number of years. Salmon run up it for twenty-five miles, to a foss, which obstructs their further progress. It is a populous district. Little facilities have hitherto been afforded for fishing, as a portion of the inhabitants formed them- selves into a community, and exercised a monopoly for a number of years. This right, however, is questioned, and will be probably ultimately abolished, as an appeal against it will be made to the higher courts, if not otherwise set at rest. Like most of the rivers in Norway, this splendid stream is greatly injured by the selfish and destructive proceedings of the inha- bitants in staking and dragging. The executive is now endeavouring, by means of enactments, to check 14: SPOET IN NORWAY. this evil, but the remissness of the authorities who should see that the regulations are carried out is so palpable that the law is comparatively a dead letter. There is a nice little stream about seventeen miles further out in the Fjord, by Talvig Praestegaard, where there are one or two good places. The fish do not run large there. Also two rivers at the bottom of Qvcen- anger Fjord may be tried ; they often hold good fish. Char will generally take a fly greedily in all these rivers. EEISEN ELV, to the south of Alten, is a fine river. It lies about fifty miles east of Tromsoe, in a valley running over that distance into the interior. It has a good body of water, with several fosses of no great height. Salmon run up a long way. Owing to the character of the stream, they will not take a fly, I am informed, though they are exceedingly abundant. An acquaintance of mine travelled by land, in 1859, from Bosekop to the Eeisen Elv, or rather, by land to Qvoenanger Fjord, about fifty-five English miles, and thence by boat by the islands of Spilderen and Kaago to the Eeisen. " I reached Eeisen," he informed me, " at 6 P. M., and got excellent quarters at Landhandler Lund's ; at ten, walked about two English miles up the river to investigate it (in feet, the main reason of my expedition). The water was very thick, and they told me it was often so in summer. The first fishing place is about fourteen English miles up the river, and FINMAKKEN AMT. 15 there is a still better one at from twenty to thirty miles up. At a distance of about sixty to seventy miles from the mouth, there is a foss where I heard that salmon were very plentiful, and that the river was always clear there; but that unluckily it cannot be fished from a boat, and the rocks are so high that if you hook a fish from land you cannot gaff him. Very few Englishmen seem to have tried this river. One has noted in the book at Lund's (1857) that he had had good sport. But nobody seems to have tried up by the above-named foss. The great drawback to the Beisen is evidently the mud. I know but too well from experience what a plague that is, especially in the short salmon season of the north. If I ever come back there I will try and get above the source of the mud, up to the foss, and see whether it be not possible to fish the pool. I should think there would be but little chance of sport before the end of June." The steamer stops at Skjerve Island, about twenty miles from the mouth of the river. This island is of tolerable, size, containing the parish church and the parsonage house. There is good ryper shooting in the neighbourhood. SKIBOTN ELV, in Lynge Fjord, is a nice river, and is well worth a trial; there is a station here. Also BALS FJOKD ELV, not far distant. They are both small rivers, but hold salmon. 16 SPORT IN NORWAY. The MAALS ELV is a fine salmon river, south of Tromsoe. Its banks are thickly inhabited. I believe the greater part, if not all of it, to be engaged. Salmon run up thirty miles. The steamer stops at Maalsnaes, at the mouth of the river. It is one of the best-cultivated districts in Finmark. A few miles to the south of this there are two small rivers, running out into the Fjord opposite to Kloven, two stations short of Maalsnaes. The northern rivers are of course later than those in the south. I believe the best time for the Alten and the Tana is about the second week in July. " A knowledge of the waters, which experience alone can give, is needful to insure success in the northern rivers, otherwise days are lost in fishing places where there are no fish. Early in the season the deep pools below the fosses and rapids are best. Later on the fish take to the strongest streams, and in autumn lie above the largest fells and rapids. Here it requires nerve, good boatmen, and stout tackle. In such places, by a skilful stroke at the moment of hooking your fish, you may succeed in turning him up stream, otherwise you lose him to a certainty. It is hazardous work, and requires experience." Game in Finmarken is principally confined to ryper, hares, and ducks. The reindeer, of which many will be seen, are for the most part tame, the property of the NORDLANDS AMT. 17 Lapps. Elk are not found. Excellent ryper-shooting may be had on Karlso, Loppeno, Hadselo and Houko near Tromsoe. As many as fifty brace a day have been bagged ! I am of opinion that but very little shooting is to be had now-a-days on the mainland. Some twenty years ago black game were numerous, but they are cer- tainly not so at the present day. On the islands, how- ever, wonderful sport may be had. The steamer stops at the first two islands, where tolerable accommodation may be found. Bears are numerous, the average number killed being 22T8- per annum. Some parts of Finmarken are first-rate for bear hunting. A Norwegian pastor who resided in the N.E. towards the Eussian frontier, told a friend of mine that " there was a hill in his parish where I might feel certain of seeing a bear any day I went there. The people," he added, "were afraid to meddle with them." The island of Senjen is noted for bears ; and I should say there possibly might be some fishing to be had there. The valley of the Eeisen also is good for bears. NOKDLAXDS AMT. This large province is bounded on the south by north Throndhjems Amt, east by Sweden, north by Fin- marken, and on the west by the sea. It is divided into three Fogderies— Helgoland in the south, Salten in the c 18 SPORT IN NORWAY. north, and Lofoten, Vesteraalen, including the islands. It contains 31,376 square miles. Unfortunately, my information concerning this Amt is very scanty ; in fact, north of the Vefsen river it is comparatively a " terra incognita." The means of communication in the interior are but small, there being scarcely any roads at all ; so that there is but little wonder that sportsmen have frequented places in pre- ference which were more accessible, and which afforded fewer impediments to locomotion. But that a visit to Nordland would be found ex- tremely remunerative I entertain not the slightest doubt ; though, at the same time, I do not think any single river, with the exception of the Vefsen, to be ca- pable of showing permanent sport. In the extreme north, in Ofoten Fjord, there are one or two small rivers which may possibly afford sport ; but I am afraid to say that such will be the case. I will, however, name them. The first is HARTVIG ELV, a small river running into Harjangen Fjord, a branch of the Ofoten Fjord. A few miles south of this come Eombaken Fjord and Bais Fjord, into which two rivers of the same names respectively flow. Again, a little to the south is ELVEGAAKDS ELV, running into Sjomen Fjord. Be- tween the mouth of the Ofoten Fjord and Tys Fjord there are several small rivers ; but I regret to say I can NORDLANDS AMT. 19 give no information about them. But for those who wish to explore in these parts, Lodingen would be the station at which to quit the steamer. In Tys Fjord there is a small river at the bottom of Kjobs Fjord. In North Folden Fjord there are also a few small rivers ; and the GJENDALS ELY, STOB ELV, in South Folden Fjord, and one or two others, may be tried. I should imagine that these rivers have in all probability never been fished by Englishmen. The steamer stops at Bodo, at the mouth of the Salten Fjord, whence the BEIEBEN ELV can easily be reached by boat-sky ts. Though a small river, it is said to be a very good one. It has been fished by Englishmen ; but whether taken up or not I cannot say with cer- tainty. A little to the east of this is a small river running out at a place named Sandvig, and again to the east, SALTEN ELV. I believe that very good sport may at times be had in this river. Between this and the Eanen Fjord there are several small rivers, but concern- ing which I know literally nothing. Kobberdal is the stopping-station for this fjord, whence boat-skyts can be taken. The EANEN ELV at the extremity of this fjord is, I am informed, an excellent river in comparison with its size. Salmon, however, are only able to ascend a very inconsiderable distance ; in fact not more than one mile. Within this space the fishing is said to be something marvellous. 20 SPOBT IN NORWAY. My informant, a Norwegian pastor, a skilful fisherman himself, tells me that he is of opinion that no English- man has ever fished here. I have since learnt that this river was fished by an Englishman about ten years ago, but with what success I cannot say. I believe, how- ever, that he considered the state of the water extremely variable. Above the foss, which prevents the fish going higher up, there is very superior trout-fishing to be had. The DALEN ELY, BJERKEDALS ELY, and RYTSAA., all in this fjord, are capable at times of affording fair sport. So that I am inclined to think, taking everything into consideration, the exploration of these rivers will not prove time lost. And lastly, there is a small river running into this fjord about one mile and a half above Mo Church. The property owning the fishing, which is well spoken of, is named Selfors. Opposite to the mouth of the Yefsen, a small river named the DEEVJE may be tried. The VEFSEN ELY, which runs into Vefsen Fjord, is a good salmon stream. The salmon go up it only about seven miles, a foss preventing their further progress. I had been under the impression that salmon ran up this river to the distance of twenty-two miles. Indeed, I have repeatedly been told as much; and this but affords an additional proof as to how very guardedly one should receive hearsay information. The name of the second foss, which is, in feet, about that distance from NOEDLANDS AMT. 21 the mouth, is "Lax Fossen;" and this has probably given rise to the idea that salmon may be found higher up the river. My informant, who has himself fished the river, tells me that he considers it next to im- possible for salmon to get over the lower foss, though some of the inhabitants averred that they did so late in the season: this, however, he seems to doubt; and indeed the information afforded by the Bonder is seldom to be relied on. The fishing in the Vefsen is very limited in extent. There are only two pools of any consequence — one immediately below the foss, and the other about one mile lower down. Occasionally mag- nificent sport may be had ; but it is a very uncertain river, and is very liable to be flooded, when it becomes so thick as to render fishing impossible. Moreover, during the latter part of July there is usually too little water, which, added to the quantity of timber that is constantly being floated down it, renders the likelihood of obtaining sport very precarious. The fishing is let on lease. Sannsesoen is the nearest station for the Vefsen. In the extreme south there is a small river, YAEDALS ELV, in Bindalen parish, also a small river at the end of Lang Fjord. There are several small rivers running into Vel Fjord, a little to the north, which hold salmon. I have, as it will be noticed, been extremely cautious about recommending rivers in this province, as my in- 22 SPORT IN NORWAY. formation has been so scanty ; but there is nothing I would like better myself than to devote a summer or two to the Nordland rivers. Some little salmon fishing may, I am told, be got in the Lofoten islands. Thus, in Dverberg parish, in Ando, near the church, fair sport may at times be got. In Sortlands parish, in Hindo, there is a tolerably sized stream running by a property named Osvold Gaard. Also in Vest Vaagen there is a small river running by Borge parsonage, where the fishing is said to be good. I merely mention these rivers in case any traveller should find himself among these beautiful islands, where there is so much to admire in the grandness of the scenery. The shooting in this Amt is not considered very good. And to begin with bears. Nordland stands at the head of all the Amts in the country in this respect. The average number killed is 34^ ; but owing to the density of the forests it is almost impossible to find them. Elk deer are not found; and the same may be said of rein as in Finmarken, namely, that they are nearly all tame herds. The shooting on the islands is well spoken of. I have not been able to learn much about the shooting in Saltdal, and in the Eanen valley, but have been told that it is good. This, however, I cannot guarantee. A friend of mine who has shot for two seasons in the NORTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. 23 valley of Vefsen gives the shooting to be had there a rather bad character. "I have shot a few caper- calzie, some woodcocks, ducks, plovers, &c., but I don't think, in two seasons, I saw more than a brace of ryper — no hjerper, though nearly every day I was through the woods or on the fjelds, and had good dogs. I once crossed the fjelds from the Vefsen to Hals Fjord, about twenty-five English miles, and saw no game of any description, though, I must add, I had no dog with me at the time. Very good ryper-shooting may, however, be had on the Lofoten isles." NORTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. This Amt is bounded on the east by Sweden, south and west by South Throndhjem Amt and the sea, and north by Nordlands Amt. It contains about 178 square miles, and is divided into three Fogderies — Stor and Vardals in the south, Inderoen in the middle, and Numedal in the north. Proceeding from Throndhjem, which is situate in the extreme north of South Throndhjems Amt, the first river we come to is STORDALS ELY. There is a station at Helle on this river, where also there is a ferry, about sixteen miles east of Throndhjem. It is an early river : the salmon go up about twenty-eight miles to Nustad Foss. It rises very rapidly, and is frequently flooded. 24 SPORT IN NORWAY. Properties owning the fishing are Vaernses Praestegaard, Hove, and Ofsti near the mouth. The inhabitants fish a good deal themselves, both with rod and net. The next river of any importance is VERBALS ELV, a short distance to the north of Levanger, between which place and Throndhjem there is steam communication. Salmon go up to Vuku, where the road to Stockholm, running through the beautiful and well-cultivated val- ley of Vaerdal, crosses it. Here it commences to be precipitous. The best time for fishing in this river is early in July. It is about thirty miles distant from Helle, mentioned above. The best fishing is high up in the river. The trout- fishing is said to be very good in this river. About twenty-five or twenty-six miles to the north is the famous Stenkjaer, where the river from Snaasen Vand empties itself into the Throndhjem Fjord. The scenery in this neighbourhood is surpassingly beautiful ; and as the fishing is also first-rate, it cannot be too highly recommended to the notice of sportsmen. There is a good station at Stenkjaer ; and here the fishing is excellent. The right of fishing on this river belongs to a Fru Gram, owner of a property named By, with the ex- ception of the last mile and a half, which belongs to Hegge Gaard. The portion of the river between Fossum Vand and the kke above, though short, is NORTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. 25 capable of affording excellent sport Whoever fishes in this part will do well to secure the services of one Henrik, a Huusmand, living at Fossum Plads ; he is a good fisherman, and is well acquainted with the river. Every information about the fishing in this river can be obtained from Herr Moe, a merchant residing at Stenkjaer. The AUGNA ELV, running into the last a short distance above Stenkjser, will probably afford good sport. Salmon go a long way up it. Helge will be found a fair station to put up at. The fishing under Fossum Foss is said to be very superior. The FIGGE or LODS ELV is also a likely stream : the right of fishing belongs to the following properties — Bruun, Ldd, and Eyg. The ANDKO ELV, running in at the northern ex- tremity of Snaasen Vand, which is forty miles long, abounds with trout of a large size. There are several small rivers on the western coast of the Throndhjem Fjord, which may occasionally afford sport, e. ff., at Lexviken, Mosvik, and Ostvik north of Stenkjaar. This last-named place can be reached by carriole from Stenkjaer in a very short time, and is on the direct road to the Namsen. At Overgaard, two stations beyond this, at the 26 SPORT IN NORWAY. bottom of Lyngen Fjord, a branch of the Namsen Fjord, fishing can be had in the Oy river. From this place, which is about thirty miles from the mouth of the Namsen, the traveller will meet a small river, the BRAAGNA ELY, running through Bang- dalen. It is a nice little river, and is perhaps capable of affording occasional sport. The NAMSEN ELY, so noted for its splendid fishery, rises in Nams Vand, 1,300 feet above the level of the sea, and runs with many bends and turns in a south- westerly, and subsequently in a westerly course. Its length is about 120 miles. It can either be reached by steamer from Throndhjem, or by the route of Stenkjser, just named. As may be supposed, it is a very rapid stream, and very liable to be flooded. Indeed, the water will rise from twenty to twenty-four feet in an incredibly short tune. At a distance of about forty-two miles from its mouth is the magnificent Fiskum Foss, one of the most majestic falls in the whole country, being 580 feet broad, and 156 feet high. The fishing immediately below this is, beyond com- pare, superb. The fishing in this river does not properly begin before arriving at Vie, about twenty-five miles from the mouth, the part below this being too deep to allow of salmon taking a fly. The middle of June is the earliest NORTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. 27 period at which one can begin fishing. I had thought July to be the earliest time, but have been told by a friend of mine, who has had much experience in the northern rivers, that he is of opinion that the best fishing may be had in the Namsen before July. " From my experience of the northern rivers," he writes me word, " I should say that in most of them the season begins about the middle of June, and fish may often be killed still earlier ; and although you do not get nearly so many fish as in July, yet their average size is much greater. I have noticed also that the fish are usually better hooked in the earlier part of the season, and that the proportion of lost fish gradually increases as it advances. Another advantage of June fishing is that you are not troubled with grilse." It is extremely difficult to say how much of this river is actually leased. It may be taken up from Fiskum Foss as far as Grongs Prrestegaard ; but I much doubt whether pastor Eambeck, who owns part of the best fishing near Fiskum Foss, has let his right away. All the way down to Vie the river abounds with magnificent pools, and as the road runs by it, informa- tion can be readily gleaned at the different stations. (For further remarks the reader is referred to Murray's 1 Handbook,' p. 206.) It is necessary to have experienced boatmen on this river, to insure sport, two for each boat. These have 28 SPORT IX NORWAY. the privilege of claiming what they call their specie fish, i.e., a dollar for every fish above a certain weight. Moreover, the tackle used must be extra strong, and the lines must be long ones. Plaited gut casting lines should always be used in preference to twisted ones. That distinguished fisherman, Sir H. Parker, killed on this river a salmon of sixty pounds weight after a little more than an hour's battle. " It was caught on a num- ber six or seven hook ; wings, two golden tippets dyed crimson, sprigged with mallard, teal, golden pheasant, and Argus pheasant ; horns, blue macaw ; head, black ; body, claret pig's wool ; tag, red mohair, ribbed gold twist. ... On the same day he bagged nine others, one of forty pounds ; one thirty pounds ; one eighteen pounds; one fifteen pounds; and the rest from eight pounds downwards." Perhaps a better day's sport has never been known ! I believe that little of this river is permanently engaged.* Should there, however, be no opportunity for fishing in any part of this noble river, which I much question, the SANDDO"LA ELV, which runs into it near Grong, should be tried : it is a fine river. On the opposite shore there is the BJOB ELV, running out of Eids Vand. Good fishing may be had here. Salmon go up as far * Vide Appendix. NORTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. 29 as Hoiland. The station at Komstad above this will be found to afford fair accommodation. Proceeding northwards by the road the OY ELV, near Oy station, should be tried. On the southern shore of Indre Foldens Fjord there are several small rivers which no doubt will occasionally yield sport; but I have been unable to gather any certain information concerning them. Fishing can be had in a river running into Oplo Fjord in Kolvereid parish; and there is a nice little river running in at the end of Sor Salten Fjord. After leaving Oy the next station is Kongsmoen on the Oy river. The fishing here is well spoken of. There is a small river I omitted to mention running into Veterhuus Botn, a little north of Namsos. I believe its name is AUSN^ES ELY. I have heard that fair sport may occasionally be had. I have heard of there being fishing in a river at Aafjord, belonging, I believe, to the pastor. With regard to trout-fishing, it may be remarked that all the above-named rivers will show excellent sport, especially the Namsen, above Fiskum Foss. But few, however, would come so far merely for the sake of such small fry. In Stordal and Vserdal Fogderies black game, caper- calzie, and ryper are plentiful, but reindeer are not so numerous. 30 SPORT IX NORWAY. In the neighbourhood of Snaasen Vand rein are more plentiful, and excellent capercalzie, black game, and ryper shooting may be had. On the islands duck and wild fowl are abundant. In the northern parts of this Amt reindeer are abundant, but elk are scarce. Eed deer may be found on Otteroen, which is easily reached from Namsos. The ryper shooting on this island is excellent. Overhalden, in Grongs parish, is a good neigh- bourhood for ryper, capercalzie, and bkck game ; and tolerable ryper shooting is to be had on Gjed Fjeld in the same parish. Bears are rather numerous ; 30^ being the average number killed per annum. Lynxes are also often met with. SOUTH THROXDHJOIS AMT. This Amt borders on Sweden to the east : on the south it is bounded by Hedemarken and Christians Arnts ; on the west by Eomsdal Amt; and on the north by Throndhjem Fjord and north Throndhjems Amt. It contains 143 square miles. The GUUL ELY is a renowned salmon river. It rises to the north of Eoraas, and runs with a north-westerly course to Soknaes, where it crosses the Throndhjem road over the Dovre Fjeld ; thence it turns to the north, and falls out into an arm of the fjord some few miles to the SOUTH THKOXDHJEMS AMT. 31 south-west of Throndhjem. The steamer to the north touches at Throndhjem. (For other routes, vide Bennett's ' Handbook of Eoutes,' 1, 2, and 3.) Salmon go up this river about forty miles to Svelget in Aalen parish. A great portion of the fishing in this river is usually taken up, as, for instance, at Soknaes. At Bogen, a few miles east of this, the fishing is "well spoken of, and at Eogstad. As the road runs by the river all the way, there may possibly be found a few places where leave to fish can be had. Its tributaries, the EEN~A ELV, running into it near Bogen, the HAUKLA, and STAAVIL, a few miles to the west, should be tried. The OKKLA ELV had formerly a bad reputation, owing to certain parties having met with poor sport one season. It is, however, an excellent salmon river, and is capable of showing very good sport. Salmon go up in it to Havdals Foss in Eennebo parish, south of Meldal. A branch road from Flaa runs by it (vide Bennett's ' Handbook of Eoutes,' 2). At Fandrem, near its mouth, good fishing is to be had, and also in the neighbourhood of Gumdal, where there is an exceedingly good station/ But perhaps the best place on the whole river is at Langsaeter, about fourteen miles above Fandrem. Hereabouts there are at least twenty or thirty pools. Good quarters can also be had ; but I believe most, if not all, of the fishing in this river to be taken. 32 SPORT IN NORWAY. The early part of July is the best season, I have been told, for fishing this river, but should think it might be tried earlier. At Kirkesaster there is a likely river running from a lake into Hevne Fjord. The SKAUGDAL ELV, north-west of Throndhjem, is also a good river, though small, in Statsbygd parish. Good fishing may be had at Uddue station, where there is a foss, immediately below which capital sport may be had. Above the foss the trout-fishing is all that could be wished. The steamer from Throndhjem stops here. A few miles to the north of this there is a small stream named the NORD ELV, which may sometimes yield fair sport. Further again to the north are three small rivers close together, NORDALS ELV, STORDALS ELV, and SORDALS ELV. They may probably be worth trying. They can be easily reached from Yaldersund, where the steamer to the north stops. Beyond this, again to the north, there is a small river running into the fjord in Bjornor parish. The steamer stops near this also. And in the extreme north of all is the STEINDALS ELV, which may perhaps at times be worth the fishing. Keturning now to Throndhjem there is the Nro ELV, which, though it affords but small space for fishing, is yet, for that little, first-rate. Salmon go up to Leer Foss, about three miles and a half above Throndhjem. Immediately below the foss there is a SOUTH THRONDHJEMS AMT. 33 magnificent pool, and good sport may be had here. The fish run large, and have been taken up to forty pounds in weight. The river in question belongs to a gentleman of the name of Overston. The trout-fishing in the above-named rivers is unquestionably good. Good trout-fishing may be had in THYDA ELY, running into the east end of Selbo Sden ; and as the road runs by it for a long way, fair accommodation may be obtained. The fishing also in Selbo So is highly spoken of by Belton in his ' Two Summers in Norway.' There is also good trout-fishing to be had some few miles from Koraas. The apothecary in this (so-called) town, who is an ardent disciple of the gentle art, will give the stranger much useful information. If I remember right, he speaks English. Ptarmigan are abundant in this neighbourhood. Drivstuen, on the Dovre Fjeld, will be found an ex- cellent station to put up at. Good ryper-shooting can be had here, and reindeer are not unfrequent. At Opdal, a few stations higher up, where the road branches off to Sundal, the shooting is well-spoken of ; also at Sogndal and Budal. Good shooting, too, can be had in Orkedal (Gumdal is a good station to put up at) and on the heights surrounding the Guul Valley. At Saelbo, also, good sport is to be had. Doubtless the shooting over the whole of this Amt is good ; but I D 34 SPORT IN NORWAY. have confined myself to those localities concerning which I have reliable information. On Hitteren, red-deer shooting may be had (vide Murray's ' Handbook,' p. 253) ; but they are rapidly diminishing in number, and will ere long, in all pro- bability, become extinct on that island. " In 1861," a genfleman informs me, " I did not certainly see more than one-third of the number I had seen three years before. The reason evidently is, that they are over- hunted by the proprietors, whom the ready market afforded by the steam communication with Throndhjem tempts to convert their venison into dollars. It is on this account, also, that there are no good heads on the whole island." Red- deer shooting is, moreover, rather expensive work. In the first place, leave must be obtained of the proprietor, who not only expects the quarry, but a payment of three dollars for every deer that may be killed, and one dollar for the guide ; and after all it is but tame work compared with reindeer hunting. In the north-western part of this island a fair sprinkling of black game and capercalzie may be found. Ryper are scarce, though there may be some on the sea side of the island. There is a great deal of marshy ground, where one would naturally imagine snipe to resort in great numbers, but I am not aware that they do come there. A friend of mine writes me word that in 1858 he ROMSDAL AMT. 35 explored tlie valley of Orkedal to the source of the river, for the express purpose of investigating the shooting, and that he is of opinion that good general sport may be had in it. " Several points," he adds, " might be named as head-quarters. I think Kalstad might be as good as any, which, though not so good a station as Gumdal, is better situated for sport. At Haarstad, a small but pretty comfortable station, we were told' that at Neerskoven, seven miles distant, there was excellent ryper-shooting, and a Sseter close by. Lower down the valley hares were said to be very plentiful, but we could not find any ; perhaps because we had no "hare-hunde." Naeverdalen * would, I have no doubt, be a very good point, and the station is tolerably comfortable. The trout-fishing ought to be particularly good there, and the river is close to the station-house." The steamers to the north stop at Havn Hitteren. I forget what the average of bears is for this Amt, but in 1860 thirteen were killed; in 1859, nine; in 1858, five ; in 1857, six; in 1856, fifteen. ROMSDAL AMT. This Amt is, I should say, held in higher estimation, both by tourist and sportsman, than any in Norway. Abounding in beautiful scenery of a varied nature. * Nacverdalen is, however, over the border, in Hedemarken Amt. 36 SPORT IN NORWAY. smiling and fertile valleys, lofty mountains, brawling cascades, and noble rivers, it presents to tbe tourist in search of tbe picturesque all tbat can be desired ; wbile tbe ample facilities of its rivers and fjelds offer to tbe sportsman abundant employment. Tbe valley of tbe Eauma is considered to be tbe most beautiful of the many beautiful valleys of Norway. Its noble mountains, with their alpine peaks, lend a charm to it which the tamer, though still lovely, aspect of Gudbrandsdal fails to impart. I doubt much whether any mountain pass in Switzerland can surpass it. Pages and pages might be written on it, and still signally fail to convey but a very feeble impression of what a personal inspection would produce. But as in writing these pages it has been my deter- mination not to be led astray by a love for tbe pictu- resque, but simply to confine myself to such facts as may be of use to the lover of sport, I must turn aside from such temptation, and endeavour to act up to my purpose. Eomsdal Amt is bounded on the north and east by S. Throndhjem Amt ; on the south by S. Bergenhuus Amt; and on the west by the sea. It contains 125 square miles, and is divided into three Fogderies — Sondmor in the south, Eomsdal in the middle, and Nodmor in the north. If not pressed for time, the sportsman will do well ROMSDAL AMT. 37 to travel via Christiania, so as not to miss the scenery of the Mosen and of Gudbrandsdal. This Amt is intersected by three principal valleys — Komsdal, Sundal, and Surendal, named after the rivers flowing through them. In the extreme south there are many small rivers, which may be worth trying, as sport is occasionally, though by no means always, to be had in them. And as many of them are not named in the map, I will, as far as I can, supply the omission by mentioning their names. And first at VANELVEN, in the extreme south-west of Sondmor, there is a small river, about thirteen miles long. A little to the east of this is BIBKEDALS ELY, falling out into the fjord near Kile, where there is a station. It runs from a lake, and its course is only seven miles. It can easily be reached from Nostad, near Horningdals Yand, which will be mentioned in the following Amt. To the west of this there is a small stream running into the bottom of a fjord. In the Hjorrendfjord, to the west of the last-named fjord, there is a likely-looking stream running out at Die, where there is a station. All these rivers can be best and most easily reached by the steamer between Bergen and Throndbjern, which stops at Volden. Hjorreufjord can be reached by carriole from this place. 38 SPORT IN NORWAY. To the east of this fjord is Nordals Fjord, which contains some likely rivers. At Strand, half-way down on the western shore, there is a good stream, and one also immediately opposite at Stordalen. There are stations in the immediate neighbourhood of either river. A little to the south the fjord branches off, one arm going to the right, the other to the left. In the former there is a very good river, VALDALEN ELY, running out at Sylte. It can be fished about seven miles up, and salmon will take a fly very eagerly here. At the extreme end of this arm there are two small rivers, HERDALS ELV and TALFJORD ELY; as they are within easy access from Sylte by boat, they might be tried. In the former of these, at about a distance of four miles from the mouth, tolerable fishing may be had. In the other arm, the Sunelven Fjord, the LANGDALS ELV, at the extreme end, is a good river. It is only about seven miles long. Stadeims Gaard owns the fishery. There is an excellent pool under a foss about two miles from the mouth. A little to the east is the GEIRANGER ELY ; it is about ten miles in length. There is uow steam communication between Hellesyldt at the end of this fjord and Aalesund. (For further information, vide Bennett's ' Handbook.') At Eidevik, a few miles due east of Aalesund, where the steamer stops, there is a small river which may be tried. KOMSDAL AMT. 39 Let it be distinctly understood that I by no means wish it to be inferred that salmon-fishing can be en- joyed in all of the above-named rivers. But that fair sport is occasionally to be had in some of them, I am quite convinced. And to the sportsman who is pos- sessed of a good constitution, and ' not adverse to loco- motion, the proximity of the above-named rivers to each other may afford him an opportunity of testing the greater part of them. And as all the best fishing in this Amt is hired, he must be content to put up with what he can get, forming a residue, by the way, by no means to be despised. We now come to Molde, at the mouth of the Komsdal Fjord, a stopping station for the steamers to the north. A small steamer runs up the fjord to its extreme end at Yeblungsnaes, for the route of which, vide Bennett's ' Handbook.' In the neighbourhood of Molde there is some good trout-fishing to be had. The view from this place over the mountains of Eomsdalen is truly magnificent. Before arriving at Yeblungsnaes there are one or two small rivers, which, I am told, occasionally will yield a little sport ; thus at Void, a few miles to the west of the above village. " That district of the western coast of Norway which is bounded by Eomsdal on the west and Sundal on the east, affords an unrivalled field to the sportsman, or to Ill SPORT IN NORWAY. the tourist in search of the picturesque. Three noble rivers, equal in their volume of water, and in the length of their course, drain this mountainous region, and fall respectively into the Eomsdal, Lange, and Sundal Fjords." We will first consider the EAOIA. This fine river rises in Laesjovaerks Vand, near Holager. This lake, which is seven miles long, and 2,050 feet above the level of the sea, is the source of two rivers, the Laagen flowing to the south, and the Rauma to the north. This is a most remarkable instance, and is worthy of note ; for not only is it a rare thing for two large rivers to flow in contrary directions from one and the same source, but the Laagen, by falling into the Miosen at Lillehammer, from the other end of which, at Minde, the Vormen ultimately flows into the Glommen, the whole southern part of the country between Frederickstadt and Veblungsnaes is rendered insular. The RAUMA is a first-class salmon river, and abounds with salmon of a large size. Salmon go up to Orrnen Foss, about twenty-one miles from the mouth : about fourteen miles lower down is another foss, below which the fishing is first-rate ; for though many salmon do undoubtedly surmount this first obstacle, yet by far the greater part remain below. But for the last seven milas, down nearly to Veblungsnaes, the fishing is truly magnificent, and for four miles immediately below the foss, EOMSDAL AMT. 41 second, perhaps, to none in Norway. Thirty-two fish have been killed in one day by two rods immediately below the fall. The water is generally discoloured by snow, but this does not prevent the fish from rising. Good and cheap quarters can be had at Veblungsnaes ; and if the services of one Jorgen Erichsen, residing there, can be obtained, he will be found a good pioneer. About half a dollar a day will be sufficient remunera- tion. He is well acquainted with every pool in the river. The greater part of this fishing is taken up ; but there are still portions where excellent sport can be had by asking permission of the proprietors, and paying a small sum. Landmark, who lives a few miles above Yeblungsnaes, and at whose house most comfortable accommodation may be had, owns a part of the Eauma, and will let the fishing. A little to the north-east of Veblungsnaes there is a small river, IISFJOKD ELV, running out at Hein, which may be worth trying. About twenty miles to the east of the Eauma is the EKIDSFJORD ELV, which rises in the mountains about Laesjoe, and empties itself into an offshoot of the Lange Fjord. About five miles from the sea it passes through a lake fourteen miles long ; and the fishing lies wholly between this lake and the mouth of the river. It abounds in fine pools and rapids. The fish in this river attain a large size, since, if they succeed 42 SPORT IN NORWAY. in passing the few traps on the river, they obtain complete safety in the deep waters of the lake : thus a larger number escape, year after year, than if they had to run the gauntlet of every trap between the mouth of the river and its source. Only a few pass through the lake and find their way into the river above. In 1860, 2569 Ibs. of salmon were taken here by one rod in thirty-nine days' fishing, giving an average of nearly 66 Ibs. per day. In the month of August the river abounds in sea-trout, and in some seasons the large lake-trout find their way into it. The scenery of this district is extremely grand. The valley is wider and more highly cultivated than Roms- dal, while the mountains which enclose it are scarcely inferior in height. " For its size," writes my in- formant, " the lake is perhaps the finest in Europe, equalling in its whole extent the most romantic parts of the Lake of Lucerne." Near Botten, on a branch of the Sundals Fjord, there is a small river running down from the Skaar Fjeld. It is best reached by carriole from Molde via Eide, on the Fanne Fjord. LILLEDALS ELY, a small river a little to the north- west of Sundals Elv, may at times, perhaps, be found to show sport. The SUNDALS ELV rises on the Dovre Fjeld, near Drivstuen, and falls into the Sundals Fjord. At Aune, KOMSDAL AMT. 43 two stations above Drivstuen, the road to Throndhjem branches off to the left, and follows the course of the river to its mouth. It abounds in salmon, sea-trout, and brown trout. After heavy rains, however, it is scarcely fishable, as it becomes discoloured from the marly character of its banks at a particular spot. Moreover, the pools are inconveniently distant from each other, and there are no opportunities afforded for the salmon to congregate in a small space. Salmon go up to Gjb'ra, about twenty miles up the river. They may, perhaps, get further up, but I am inclined to think there can be no fishing above this place, as here the river passes through a narrow gorge, and becomes, in fact, a torrent. The scenery of this valley is very grand, though not equal to that of Eomsdal or Eridsfjord. The fishing by Hoaas is taken up ; but I should fancy leave can be got to fish higher up stream. This, however, can be ascertained at any of the stations on the river. North of this river are the TODALEN ELV, running out at Kvaernsaet, and the SVINNA ELV ; and between the former of these and Sundals Fjord is a river running into Ulvuna Fjord. They are, I believe, capable of showing sport. Again further to the north is the SURENDAL ELV, a capital salmon river. From Honstad downwards, 44 SPORT IN NORWAY. where it is joined by the YIXGDALS ELV, there is excellent fishing to be had. I cannot say what part of this river is taken up. The trout-fishing in this river and its tributaries is well spoken of. The road to Christiansund runs through Surendal, so that fair accommodation can be had on the route. The BJEVRA ELV, a little to the north of Surendal Elv, is a likely-looking stream. It is about eleven miles long. There are also some smaller rivers running into the Vinje Fjord, in the extreme north of this Amt, of which the FJELNA ELV is the most likely. From Vinje there is a direct road to Throndhjem, through Orkedal, from which it is distant about thirty miles. Reindeer shooting may be had on the eastern fjelds in Sondmor Fogderie, in the extreme south of this Amt, called Lang Fjelds ; and indeed all the terrain between Sunelven Fjord and Hjorrenfjord will well repay a visit. For those who purpose hunting in this district, Herdal will be found a good place for head- quarters. The fjelds also between this and Xordals Fjord are said to be very good. Eyper and black game are abundant, and ptarmigan are always found on the heights. Red deer may be found on the islands Sulo, Hareidsland, and Gursko. Larsnaes, on this latter island, is a stopping-place for the steamers to the north. ROMSDAL AMT. 45 Reindeer shooting can also be had on the Romsdal Fjeld, Troltinderne, and Broste Fjeld. On the fjelds opposite Veblungsnaes fair ryper shooting may be had on the low scrub on the mountain side; while ducks, and occasionally snipe, are to be found on the low marshy ground near the village. Indeed, the whole terrain from Eomsdal to Surendal consists of good shooting ground, and many oppor- tunities for reindeer hunting may be had. It may be remarked that the most favourite localities for reindeer are treated of in a separate chapter devoted to the " history, haunts, and habits " of this noble animal. Red deer may also be found on Smblen, the northern- most island belonging to this Amt, and on Erlvaago. It is not unlikely that there may also be other islands, besides the above named, where these animals may be found; but I have only mentioned those concerning which I had certain and reliable information. The steamer to the north stops at Edo, a small island a little to the soutli of Smolen. In Surendal, ryper, black game, and hares are abundant. The average number of bears killed in this Amt is 17T45 per annum. Veblungsnass would be excellent head-quarters for any one ambitious of killing a bear ; they are numerous in the neighbourhood, and there are several good hunters hereabouts. Lynxes, more- over, are not uncommon. It will thus be seen that 46 SPORT IN NORWAY. good general shooting is to be had ; but the sportsman must be prepared to rough it if he hopes to be suc- cessful. NORTH BERGEXHUUS AMT. This Amt is bounded on the north by the last named ; on the south by South Bergenhuus; on the east it touches on Buskerud and Christians Amts ; and on the west it is bounded by the sea. It is divided into two Fogderies, Yttre and Indre Sogn in the south, and Sondfjord and Nordfjord in the north. In the south it is intersected by the Sogne Fjord from west to east. This noble fjord, which has many collateral branches, is about 120 miles in length. The coast is fringed with numerous islands, between which and the mainland the steamers to the north wend their way. Salmon are to be found in all the rivers running into the Sogne Fjord. To begin at the extreme end. The LERDALS ELY running out at Lerdalsoren, is a good salmon river, and abounds with fish, though they do not attain a very large size. Lerdalsoren can be reached either by steamer from Bergen, or by the route of the Fille Fjeld, via Christiania. (Vide Bennett's 'Handbook,' pp. 18, 44.) The fishing in this river belongs to the properties Tinjum, Moe, and Lysne. That in the NORTH BERGENHUUS AMT. 47 neighbourhood of Lysne Gaard is very good. The latter part of June will be found to be the best time for this river, and the fishing is best near the mouth. Lerdalsoren is an excellent station, and the station- master is very civil and obliging. AARDALS ELV, running into a fjord of the same name, a little to the north of Lerdalsoren, is often capable of affording excellent sport ; but the quantity of water in this river is very irregular. It is best after a good deal of rain has fallen. Fish have been taken, I am informed, up to forty pounds in weight. When the water is very low, salmon run up into a lake which is about five miles in length, and from thence find their way up a river running in at the other end for about three miles and a half. In the autumn the salmon- trout-fishing to be had in this river is exceedingly fine. I believe the fishing here to be engaged, but am not certain. I do not think it was in 1860. I do not know whether fishing can be had in the Jostedal river near Lyster in the Gaupne Fjord ; but it is a likely- looking stream, though, of necessity, a late one, owing to its running down from the glaciers. It is about thirty miles north of Lerdalsoren, whence it can be reached by boat-skyts. (For an account of the glaciers vide Murray's ' Handbook,' p. 165.) In Sogndals Fjord, to the west of this, is the AAKO ELV, which, though not of great extent, yet has a large 48 SPORT IN NORWAY. mass of water. Salmon of an unusually large size have been taken here. I have heard of fish weighing forty- four pounds being captured in this river. They are a beautifully clean fish. This also is a late river, and cannot be fished with success before the middle of July, as the water which comes down from the glaciers is so intensely cold that the salmon will not rise to the fly. I believe this fishing to be engaged. AURLAXDS ELY. running into a branch of the fjord east of Naerodal, abounds with salmon of a large size SCtXK IS AUKL.VMte The water in this river is very irregular, and the fishing is best after a flood. July is the earliest period NORTH BERGEXHHUUS AMT. 49 at which it can be fished. Sea-trout of a very large size are taken here ; and late in the autumn splendid sport may be had. This river is let on lease. There is a small river in the same fjord, at the extreme end, which should be tried. It is called the MOLDA ELY. Salmon of a large size may be taken here, but the water is very variable. It is only after a flood that fishing can be had. In a dry season the river would be a total failure. Moreover, it is terribly trapped. Most of the fishing belongs, I believe, to an "ex-M.P.," Thorstein Fretheirn. In Xarodal salmon-fishing may occasionally be had. Grudvangen is a fair station, though not first rate. In the lower part of the Gudvangen river, late in the season, there are a great number of sea-trout, and indeed most of the rivers running into the Sogne Fjord and its branches will be found to afford good sea-trout fishing. A fly with a light-blue body and gold tinsel can be recommended for these fish. It may be re- marked that the scenery about here is grand in the extreme. A little way up the valley, the traveller, who is making his way to Bergen by land, will pass Stal- heim. The road up the mountain is of a most extra- ordinary "corkscrew nature," and is a fine specimen of Norwegian engineering skill. On either side of the road are two fine fosses which add considerably to the beauty of the landscape. 50 SPORT IN NORWAY. There may be possibly some small streams further seawards in the Sogne Fjord ; but I think I have named all that are worth mentioning. There is a small river running out at Eidevik in Sondfjord, a little to the north ; but I have not met with any one who has ever tried it. It may very likely hold fish. There are some small streams between this and Nordfjord ; and I much doubt whether they have ever been fished. I can hazard no information about them. But in Nbrdfjord there are many good opportunities for the salmon-fisher. The steamer to the north stops at Bryggen at the mouth. The river from Horningdals Yand, running into the fjord, is said to abound with salmon. The river running into the Gloppen Fjord at Sandene. a little to the south, frequently holds good fish. It is named STOR ELY. A little to the east, STRYEN ELV, coming from Op- struen Vaud, can also be conveniently tried. It is a likely stream, though small. There are several smaller rivers in this fjord and its branches ; but I have been unable to gather any information concerning them. In the extensive ranges of mountains in the neigh- bourhood of Lerdal, Jostedal, Lyster, and Urland good reindeer hunting may be had. Aardal would be a particularly good point from which to make expeditions after reindeer. A very clever and NORTH BERGENHUUS AMT. 51 intelligent hunter named Hans Natvik, who lives near by, can be highly recommended. On the neighbouring fjelds he usually kills many deer himself every season, and is well acquainted with the whole terrain between this and Tyen Vand. Sletterust is the best point from which to hunt this, which is one of the best districts for reindeer in the whole country. Tents are, however, almost a sine qua non, as the Saeters, as is universally the case in the Bergen Stift, are very bad and dirty. A friend writes me word that he crossed the fjeld from Lerdal to Aardal, and that in coming down through the thick scrub which covers the steep sides of the mountains above Vik, his guide informed him that very many bears had been killed there. On the whole there is scarcely a better prospect of sport anywhere in Norway than in the neighbourhood of Aardal. Elks are not found in this Amt. In Indre Sogn ryper are numerous, and,, indeed, abound on all the fjeld sides in low scrub. Capercalzie are common in the woods about Kaupangor and Fronningeii on the opposite sides of the Sogne Fjord in Indre Sogn; and Jostedal abounds in black game. Indeed, I do not hesitate to say that general shooting is pretty good in nearly every part of this Amt ; and I have only given prominence to places where I have been in- formed it is superior. Near Horningdals Vand also the shooting is very fair. 52 SPORT IN NORWAY. Ducks and all manner of wild fowl will be found in plenty along the coast. The average number of bears killed is 14T75 per annum. For bear-hunting Lerdalsoren would be admirable head-quarters. In 1860 a hunter living at Qvikne, on the Lerdals Fjord, succeeded in killing in the spring of that year three bears at Aerdal. There is a great deal of thick wood here. Bears are also frequently seen in Tdnjums Dal, about seven miles from Lerdalsoren, and often commit havoc amongst the sheep and pigs. There are some stone huts in the valley ; and if one were to establish oneself there for a while, say in May, SOUTH BERGENHUUS AMT. :>'.', before the people coine up to the saeters, an un- commonly good chance of getting hold of a bear might be had. It is rather stiffish walking on the mountain- sides above Tonjums Dal, but the ground is very favourable for seeing bears. SOUTH BEHGEXHUUS AMT. This Amt is bordered on the south by Stavanger Amt ; on the east by Bratsberg and Buskeruds Amt ; and on the west by the sea. It contains 141 square miles, and is divided into two Fogderies, Sondhordland and Hardanger. Xordhordland and Voss. On the east it is separated from Hallingdal and Nummedal by a chain of mountains, Langfjelde, which in places attain an alti- tude of 5,400 feet above the sea. The magnificent Hardanger Fjord intersects this Amt from south-west to north-east, the scenery of which is perhaps the grandest and wildest in the whole country (vide Murray's ' Handbook,' p. 178 ; Bennett's ditto, pp. 25, 26) ; and as there is weekly steam commu- nication with Bergen, a passage of but a few hours, its beauties may readily be explored. The fishing in this Amt is by no means unimportant In the extreme south there is a small river called ETNE ELY, which can be tried ; and there is a likely-looking stream running out into a fjord at Fjaere, a few miles to the north-east. But neither of these is of much importance. 54 SPORT IN NORWAY. About half-way up the Hardanger Fjord at Vikor. on the northern shore, there is a small river, the STEINDALS ELV. As the steamer from Bergen, from which it is about fifteen hours, stops at Ostensjo, a few miles to the north, it might be tried. Here is the magnificent Ostud Foss, a waterfall of about 700 feet in height (vide Murray's ' Handbook,' p. 170). In Sor Fjord, a collateral branch of the Hardanger Fjord, some fishing may at times be had near Kin- servik, on the eastern shore. The steamer stops at Utne, at the mouth of this fjord, whence boat-skyts can be taken. At Odde, the extreme end, there is a small river which may hold salmon. This place may be reached in thirty hours from Bergen by the steamer. The Folge Fond is in the immediate neighbourhood. The SKJEGGEDALS ELV, running out at Tyssedal, a very- few miles higher up, is a nice little stream. Much sport with salmon in the above-named rivers cannot be guaranteed, but there is little doubt that they may occasionally prove worth trying ; and as they are in the midst of the most glorious scenery imaginable, the casual tourist may find it worth while to bear them in mind. From their nature, and owing to the irregularity of their water, they must be best after heavy rains. The river at Vik, running out in Eidfjord, the SOUTH BERGENHUUS AMT. 55 extreme end of the Hardanger, is a nice little river. Good sport has often been had here. This place is within easy distance of the magnificent Voring Foss, and the scenery in the neighbourhood is of that savage grandeur which can rarely, if ever, be seen in any other parts of Europe (vide Murray, p. 169). At Ulvik, where the steamer also stops, a little to the north of Vik, and at Ose, between the two named places, the rivers may be tried. Proceeding down the fjord again in the direction of Bergen, there are one or two small rivers which may perhaps at times afford sport, e.g., at Strand vik, Haalandsdal. A small river running out at Samnanger, a few miles east of Bergen, in a branch of the Strande Fjord, may also be tried. In BEEGSDAL ELY, a few miles to the north of Bergen, salmon-fishing may occasionally be had. The VOSSE ELV is a remarkably fine stream. It consists of two arms, one rising near Opheim, and the other near Lange Lake. These meet at Vossevangen, near the church, and pass through "Vangs Vand, and Evanger Vand. Capital salmon-fishing may be had at Bolstadoren. This latter is a good station, and the river has been much fished by Englishmen. Whether it is leased now I do not know ; when I was there five summers ago it was open. Salmon of a large size may be taken, and the trout-fishing is first rate. 56 SPORT IN NORWAY. Further northwards is the EXINGDAL ELY : it is a very likely-looking stream. There is also another river a little above this running out at Mo. In both of these I believe fair fishing may be had. Some of the best reindeer ground is to be found in the eastern parts of this Amt. The neighbourhood of Vikor, on the Hardanger Fjord, at Graven, Ulvik, Kinservik, and on the large and extensive range of mountains towards Hallingdal and Nunimedal, and to the east of Vossevangen, will be found usually to abound with these animals. Eed deer are found on some of the islands off the coast. Ryper, too, are generally plentiful. As the forests in this Amt are comparatively of small dimensions, black game and capercalzie are not so numerous as elsewhere. Of elks, I believe there are none. The average number of bears annually killed is small, being only 1 14 . I had always been at a loss to understand why the number of bears killed annually in this Amt was so small ; but I have been given to understand, on good authority, that the smallness of the returns must not in this case be taken as any evidence of their scarcity. "On the contrary," writes my informant, "I am inclined to think that in some parts of the Hardanger country, they are more numerous than in any other part of Norway. The reason is, that the peasants here know nothing at all about bear-hunting, and, in fact, STAVANGER AMT. 57 seem afraid to venture on it. In one part near Ulvig, where I hunted bears unsuccessfully in 1860, I learnt that a year or two before a bear had been committing great depredations ; and that the farmers had actually subscribed and sent all the way to Komsdal for an experienced hunter, who remained there all the summer. He was, however, no more successful than myself. "Every year the bears commit grievous havoc in many parts of the Hardanger country. There is no difficulty in hearing of them almost anywhere ; but without a regularly trained bear-dog, which is not to be had in that part of the country, it is almost hopeless to think of finding them, at least in summer. " Properly prepared for the campaign, and able to devote plenty of time to it, the bear-hunter would, I am confident, find the mountains bordering the Hardanger Fjord a noble field for operations." STAVANGER AMT. This Amt is bounded on the south and west by the sea ; on the north by South Bergenhuus ; and on the east by Lister and Mandals Amt, and Nedenses Amt. It is divided into two Fogderies, JaBdderen in the south, and Kyfylke in the north. Its superficial area is about 76 square miles. This Amt will be found to present but few attractions 58 SPORT IN NORWAY. to the salmon-fisher ; but still some sport may be had with a little looking for it. Beginning in the extreme south, there is a small river running through Sogndal, a few miles north of Hekke Fjord. Salmon-fishing is to be had here at times ; it belongs to Eeg parsonage. Salmon may also be found in TENGS Kiver, and in OUGNE Eiver, in the parish of Ekersand. They had better be fished near their mouths. In FIGGE ELV, a little to the south of Stavanger, some fair fishing may occasionally be had. It is a small river, but the fish go up it for a long distance. Schjefveland will be found to be a comfortable station to put up at. In SULEDALS ELV, running out at Sand into one of the arms of the Bukn Fjord, fishing may be had. Salmon go up to the extreme end of Suledals Lake. VIGEDALS ELV, a little more to the west of this, is said to hold salmon. To the north-east of Stavanger there are several small streams in the parish of Strand and Hjelmeland ; but I have been able to learn but little concerning them. Those who wish to try their luck hereabouts had best inquire of Dr. Stang, or of Herr Candidatus Juris Baade, who is a government inspector of salmon fisheries. Both these gentlemen live in Stavanger. It may, however, be remarked of all the rivers in STAVANGEB AMT. 59 this Amt, that they are very short, and that they rise very suddenly after rain. Moreover, the timber-floating which is constantly going on in them will be found such a serious annoyance as to render the fishing anything but profitable. And even when the water may be clear of such impediments, the fish are so extremely shy as to take a fly very unwillingly. The neighbourhood of Stavanger being totally devoid of wood, much shooting cannot be expected in this part. Hares are, however, tolerably plentiful. In the autumn immense flocks of snipes visit the neigh- bouring marshes, when excellent sport may be had. Eeindeer are found in the neighbourhood of Hole, south-east of Stavanger, and of Aardal and Suledal, and on the fjelds forming the eastern frontier. Ked deer may be found in Skjold, on the borders of South Bergenhuus Amt in the extreme north, also in Hin- deraa, Yikeland, and Imsland parishes near Sand. In these districts ryper are generally plentiful, black game not abundant, but a good sprinkling of snipes, plovers, and hares may be found. Here also the white, black, and blue fox may be met with. All along the sea- coast good opportunities for wild-fowl shooting may be found. In the spring, shortly before breeding-time, thousands of eider-duck congregate in the fjords. Bears are not numerous, the average number killed amounting only to two a year. In the summer of 1862 60 SPOTIT IN NORWAY. two young lads managed to kill a bear under rather peculiar circumstances in the neighbourhood of Sta- vanger. A bear had been committing great havoc among the sheep and cattle for some time past, and had somehow managed to elude the hunters. So the two youths in question determined to try their luck, and see if they could not bring Bruin to book for his misdeeds. Armed o with two old rusty fowling-pieces they set ofi' one morning in quest of him, and after searching about for some time were fortunate enough to espy the bear. When within about thirty yards they each let fly. One of the guns, however, refused to go off, but the other fortunately inflicted a mortal wound, or else they might not have escaped so easily. Finding that the animal was unable to attack them they now advanced, and one of them, picking up a good-sized stone, hurled it at the beast, intending, if possible, to kill it. Meanwhile, the other one had reloaded his piece, and, discharging it in Bruin's ear, put him liors de combat LISTER AND MANDALS AMT. This Amt is bounded on the north and east by Nede- naes Amt ; on the south by the sea ; and on the west by the last-named amt. It contains about 43 square miles, and is divided LISTEK AND MANDALS AMT. 61 into two Fogderies, Lister and Mandal. Its principal towns are Cliristiansand and Mandal. Five valleys intersect Mandals Fogderie — Topdal, Torrisdal, Sogndal, Mandal, and Undal — all running nearly parallel with each other, and separated the. one from the other by mountain ranges of no great altitude. Mandals Fogderie contains many and very im- portant salmon fisheries. And first, the TOPDALS ELV, a continuation of OTTEREN ELV — the river which runs through Saetersdal — is a fine salmon stream. Salmon go up in it to Boen Foss. A part of this river is owned by an Englishman who has a property on it; but whether all the fishing is taken up, or not, I cannot say with certainty. It abounds with fish, but they are generally of small size, and of poor quality. The names of the several properties which have the right of fishing on this river are Gustnaes on the western shore of Topdal Fjord, Tved, Boen, Kjevik, and Drangholt. More accurate information can, however, be obtained in Christiansand. It is an early river, and can for the most part be fished from land. Bright- coloured flies are recommended. The TORRISDAL ELV, a little to the west, is a large river. Salmon go up to Vikelands Foss, beyond which they cannot pass. Quarters and fishing may be had at Vigelund, which is an exceedingly good station. The fishery belongs to Consul Vildt, a Swiss gentleman, 62 SPORT IN NORWAY. who takes great interest in the propagation and breed- ing of salmon. This gentleman resides in or near to the tewn, and will, I am told, give permission to fish. A small payment will, however, probably have to be made. It is a very rapid stream, and the fishing is principally from boats. It is, moreover, somewhat later than the Topdal Elv. Large dull-coloured flies, with a little tinsel, are recommended. The SOGNE ELV is a small river, but is, perhaps, worth trying. The MANDALS ELV, running out by Mandal, was formerly a very celebrated salmon river ; but bag-nets, poaching, &c., have considerably deteriorated it. It might however, with good management, be still made one of the best in the south of Norway. Some fair fishing may still be had on it. The principal fosses are Kjole Foss, Aase, Noddings, and Skjasrveland. Quarters and fishing may perhaps be had at the pro- perties Holme, Osteboe, Skinsnaes, Langelund, Moe, and Hesaae. Mr. Lloyd recommends B or B B hooks, fur bodies, with mixed wings. In many parts a boat is not requisite. It may be fished up to Naes Vand, a little above Lovland, where there is a good station. About seven miles from Mandal to the west is UNDALS ELV. Salmon go up in it to the upper Oidne Lake. It is an early river, and abounds with fish. Quarters and fishing may probably be had at Vigeland, LISTER AND MANDALS AMT. 63 Skofteland, and Vigmosstad. It may be remarked that it is not a large river, and has not many casts. About ten miles to the west of this is LYNGDAL ELY. Salmon run up a distance of about eleven miles, to a foss named Qvas Foss. Properties owning the fishing are Qvaevik, Qvelland (about a mile and a half above the church). Bergsaker, where the road crosses it, is a fair station. The accommodation in this district is not all that might be desired ; but if lovely scenery can in any way make up for this deficiency, there is abundant compensation. Further to the west is the QVINNA ELV. Salmon can go up in it to 'Eafoss. The road to Hekke Fjord crosses it at Fede, a good station, where fishing can be had. It is a fine river, and has many likely-looking pools. I do not know whether it is engaged. The LIKA ELV, a little to the west, is noted for its fine trout-fishing. It is more than probable that sal- mon may be found in it, but of this I am doubtful. I may remark that all the above-named rivers will afford good sport to the trout-fisher. Elk are not found in this Amt. In the fjelds around Siredal reindeer hunting may be had, and good ryper and black-game shooting. On many parts of the coast, snipe and woodcock shooting may be enjoyed. Towards the end of May and be- ginning of June, myriads of barnacle geese may be 64 SPORT IN NORWAY. found along the coast, and in the fjords. The best general shooting will be found in Siredal. The average number of bears killed in this amt is 2 jV per annum. NEDEN.ES AMT. This Amt is bounded on the north and east by Bratsberg Amt ; on the south by the sea ; on the •west by Lister and Mandals Amt ; and on the north by Stavanger Amt, and a small portion of South Bergenhuus Amt. It contains about 90 square miles. The principal rivers are the Nid, Topdals, and the Otteren. The latter of these, as mentioned above, flows into the sea at Christiansand, under the name of the Torrisdals Elv. It is divided into two Fogderies, Nedenaes and Eaabygdelag. The salmon and trout fishing in this Amt are very insignificant. The NID ELV, near Arendal, used formerly to be famous for its salmon-fishing, especially below a foss named Eygende Foss ; but of late years it has much deteriorated, and I should scarcely think it worth while going out of the way for, to try. The OTTEEEN ELV, in Saetersdal, is said to afford good .trout-fishing ; but the fact is, Saetersdal has been so little le-travelled, that even Norwegians know but little about it. The inhabitants of this valley are a BRATSBERG AMT. 65 very peculiar race of people, totally unlike what are met with in other parts of the country.* The TOPDALS ELY, and its tributary the SKJEGGE- DALS ELV, will also afford tolerable trout-fishing, while the lakes are said to abound with good fish. The shooting in Saetersdal is exceedingly good ; ryper, black game, and hares are abundant, while the quantum of bears it yields is by no means insignificant, the annual average throughout this Amt being 21-ff. The scenery in this valley is very wild and romantic ; but the dirty habits of the Satersdolen (the inhabitant of a valley is called Ddlen) are proverbial, and have tended, almost as much as its previous inaccessibility, to render it comparatively an unknown district. BRATSBEBG AMT. This Amt is bounded on the north and east by Buske- ruds Arnt ; on the east and south by Jarlsberg Amt and the sea ; and on the west by Nedenaes, and South Bergenhuus Amts. It is divided into three Fogderies — Nedre Thele- marken, Bamle, and Ovre Thelemarken ; and contains some of the most picturesque scenery in Norway. Being but a poor district, the accommodation to be met with is none of the best ; and as poverty and dirt * The habits and customs of this peculiar people will be treated of in a separate chapter. 66 SPORT IN NORWAY. seem generally to bear a direct proportion to each other, neither can be said to form an exception to the rule. The salmon-fishing in this Amt is extremely unim- portant. In fact, I believe the river running up by Skien is the only place where salmon are taken ; but I feel pretty confident, from the nature of the water, that no rod-fishing is to be expected here. On the other hand, it offers numerous facilities to the trout-fisher. A glance at the map will show that it abounds with lakes large and small, and tributary streams ; but I shall confine myself to those in which I have fished myself, or of which I have reliable information. The eastern end of Bandags Vand by Strasngen, where there is an exceedingly comfortable station, and where the landlady thoroughly understands how to make an Englishman comfortable, will be found to afford some excellent sport. The shortest route to this place is by steamer from Christiania to Skien, thence by carriole to Fjaerestrand, a distance of only a few miles, on Nordsoen, and by steamer to Ulefoss, which place is only a two to three hours' journey, along one of the best chause'es in the country, to Straengen. A steamer goes from this place to Dale, the extreme end of Bandags Vand, along the wildest and most desolate scenery imaginable. The river running into the lake here is a magnificent trout-stream, and has some pools BRATSBERG AMT. 67 which an ardent fisherman will rejoice to wet his line in. Very large trout can be taken, and those fond of spinning will find good sport by rowing to and fro across the mouth of the river where it debouches into the lake. The famous Mjos Vand can be reached in one day across the mountains from Dale, and in July will afford excellent sport; but as it is nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea, it is extremely cold up there. Most of the " Kak Orret " is made from trout caught in this lake ; which article of food, perhaps, vies with " Grammel Ost " in its smelling qualities, but is con- sidered a lonne louche and " appetite tickler " by most Norwegians. Excellent trout-fishing, too, is to be had in Nisser Vand, a large lake running nearly at right angles to Bandags Vand. The direct road from Thelemarken to Arendal runs along its eastern banks. The fish here are as pink as salmon, and are most delicious eating. Of the lakes and rivers in the extreme north of this Amt I know nothing, but they must afford good fishing ; but lying so far from any road, and the want of any- thing like decent accommodation, must prove a serious drawback to the tourist sportsman. In fact, all through Thelemarken, the stations are, with but few exceptions, disgustingly dirty, and deficient in aught to stay the traveller's stomach but flad-brod and grod. Even the 68 SPORT IN NORWAY. mere tourist in search of the picturesque will find a light trout-rod an excellent accompaniment. Only, verbum sap., when he catches his trout, let him, unless he has a very powerful stomach, superintend the cooking of them himself. The MAAN ELV, flowing from the Mjos Vand into Tin Soen, is a good river. On this, and nearer to Mjos Vand, is the famous Kiukan Foss. Near Hitterdal, famous for its quaint ship-like church, good trout-fishing may be had. I have mentioned hut few of the lakes and rivers in this province; hut those I have named are the most accessible, and are generally considered the richest in fish. (For routes to Thelemarken, vide Murray, p. 195, and Bennett's 'Handbook,' p. 28.) The shooting over the whole of this Amt is generally good. The neighbourhood of Straengen abounds with hares, snipe, and black game. Eyper are plentiful on all the fjelds. Eeindeer are numerous on the fjelds about Tinds, Vinge, and Moe (a few miles west of Dalen), and in the northern parts of Ovre Thele- marken. The magnificent Gausta Fjeld, the highest mountain in the south of Norway (6000 feet), is never without a good sprinkling of rein. Bears are numerous throughout the province; the average ^number killed being 33|l per annum ; and I JARLSBEKG AND LAURVIG AMT. 69 would almost recommend any one desirous of enjoying some bear-hunting to select this Anit in preference to any other in the whole of Norway. JAKLSBEKG AND LAURVIG AMT. This Amt is bounded on the east by the Christiania Fjord ; on the south by the sea ; on the west by Bratsberg ; and on the north by Busksernds Amt. It contains 18 £ square miles. The only river of any importance is the LOGEN, which enters this Amt on its north-eastern frontier, and flows into the sea near the town of Laurvik. The Logen is an excellent salmon stream, and was con- sidered by Sir H. Parker to be second to none in the whole country. Salmon run up to Vittingfoss, in Sandsvser, Buskeruds Amt, their further progress up the river being impeded. Kjaero Foss and Vigelstad Foss are considered the best places on the whole river. The water hereabouts is somewhat later than it is lower down. Some portion of this river is taken up by an English gentleman who has bought a property ; but there are still places, I believe, open to engagement. The shooting in this Amt is not good, as it is one of the most populous in Norway. Reindeer are not found, for the country is flat; neither, I believe, are elk. In the wooded parts of Laurdal some black game 70 SPOET IN NORWAY. may be found ; but unless bound for the Logen, the sportsman who expects to find much employment for rod or gun will be disappointed both as regards the fishing and shooting. Bears are not often met with, the average number killed being only BUSKERUDS AMT. This Amt borders to the north on Christians Amt and North Bergenhuus Amt ; to the west on South Bergenhuus Amt ; to the south on Bratsberg and Jarlsberg Amts ; and to the east on Agershuus Amt and the Christiania Fjord. It is divided into three Fogderies — Buskerud, Eingerike and Hallingdal, and Kummedal. Its superficial area is about 105J square miles. With the exception of the Drammen river and the small portion of the Logen river alluded to in the last, salmon are not found in this Amt. A great many salmon go up to Hougsund, a few miles above Dram- men ; but from the nature of the water I should scarcely think it possible that they will rise to a fly. I have been told, but will not vouch for the truth of it, that some salmon-fishing may be had in a small river running out by Lier, about seven miles east of Dram- men. There is, however, excellent trout-fishing to be had BUSKEEUDS AMT. 71 in many parts of this Amt. And first I would name Honefoss, about thirty miles from Christiania. The road to it runs by the beautiful Tyri Fjord, at the foot of the famous Krokleven. At Honefoss there is a comfortable little inn, a little below the last foss. Two rivers meet here, the one coming from the Rands Fjord, and the other from Spendilen, and united, flow into the Tyri Fjord. Some very nice fishing may be had at this place, both with fly, and — later on in the summer — by spinning. Trout of a large size are often taken. The fishing all the way up the Spendilen river is good. The other river, from the Randsfjord, will well repay exploring. About ten miles up from Honefoss there is an excellent part near a flour-mill, situate in the middle of a forest. Both above and below the foss, by which the mill stands, good fishing is to be had. Being within such easy distance from Christiania, these rivers cannot be too highly recommended to the fisherman who has not much time at his disposal in the country. The HALLINGDAL KIVER runs some miles west of Honefoss, and enters the Tyri Fjord a little below Modum. It is a fine river, and abounds with trout. And as the road runs near it up to the Kroderen lake, about fourteen miles from its mouth, accommodation (such as it is) can readily be found. A short distance below Modum is Bjorndal, where 72 SPORT IN NORWAY. fair fishing can be had on the Drammen river. From this place skyts should be taken to Tingelstad, on the Eggedal river, which may be fished up to Medalen. The road runs by it all the way. Good trout-fishing may be had in the Logen river, already spoken of, all the way up to Opdal : the road runs by it to this place. And further up this river the fishing is good, but the accommodation very inferior. The north-western part of this Amt, owing to its inaccessibility, is but little known to the fisherman ; but should dirt, fleas, and poor fare not prove insuperable impediments, there is little question but that capital sport may be found. In the southern part of this Amt the shooting is poor ; but both in Hallingdal and Nummedal excellent ryper-shooting may be had. Opdal will be found a tolerable and convenient station as head-quarters. In the north and north-western parts reindeer are numerous, especially on Keensfjeld, Hemsedals Fjeld; in the extreme north, Nystols Fjeld and Halling- skarven. Elk are rare. Bears, principally in the northern districts, are not uncommon. The average number killed is 14}§. In 1860, however, 23 bears were killed in this Amt. CHRISTIANS AMT. 73 CHRISTIANS AMT. This province borders on the Miosen lake, Hede- marken, and Agershuus Amts, on the south and east ; on the north it is bounded by Eomsdals Amt, and part of South Throndhjem Amt ; and on the west and south by Komsdals and Buskeruds Amt. It is divided into three Fogderies — Thoten, Valders, and Gudbrandsdal. Its principal rivers are the Laagen and Eauma, which have their source at either end of Laesje Vand, as men- tioned above. The Laagen, which flows into the Miosen at Lilleham- mer, has many tributaries ; among the most important of which is the Otta Elv, which falls into it at Krin- gelen, a mountain pass, famous in the annals of Nor- wegian history for the massacre of Colonel Sinclair. ( Vide Murray's ' Handbook.') The trout-fishing in the Laagen is not held in high esteem. A great quantity of the large lake-trout are taken in traps at Hunnerfoss, about ten miles north of Lillehammer. Yalders is situate in the southern part of this Amt, and is extremely rich in vegetation and smiling land- scape. The beautiful Eandsfjord, formed by the con- fluence of the Dokka and Etnedal rivers, is about 50 miles long, and 290 feet above the level of the sea. The Yalders Eiver rises near Nystuen, the extreme top of the Fille Fjeld, and flows with a south-westerly 74 SPORT IN NORWAY. course through Aadalen, Spendilen lake, and joins the Hadeland river, as mentioned above, at Honefoss in Kingerike. Fair fishing may be had in the Etnedal and Dokka rivers. In Vaage Yand, and its tributary the Baevra Elv, some very superior trout-fishing may be had, especially in the neighbourhood of Lorn at its western extremity. Jerkin, on the Dovre Fjeld, will afford ample employ- ment for the trout-fisher, though the fish do not generally run large. In fact, there is scarcely a lake or river in the whole of this large Amt but will afford some amusement. In the fjelds around Laesje, Laurgaard, and Yaage, rein- deer are numerous, and ryper abundant Laurgaard and Braendehaugen are very comfortable and favourite stations for sportsmen. The Jotun Fjelds, a little south of Yaage Vand, were noted for their quantities of reindeer ; and Lomseggen, at the western end of this Yand, is perhaps the best terrain of all. Beindeer used formerly to be much more numerous in the Vaage district of the Jotun Fjelds, but seem to have diminished of late years. Altogether, I should say, to insure success, Lomseggen and the western side of the Jotun Fjelds are the most likely places. In the neighbourhood of Lille Miosen, a few stations short of Nystuen, excellent shooting is to be had. HEDEMARKEN AMT. 75 Jerkin is a very favourite station for sportsmen, and good ryper-shooting is to be had here, and, in fact, at times all over the Dovre and its collateral branches. Indeed, the whole terrain between Gudbrandsdal and Valders will afford ample sport ; but the accommodation to be got is questionable. Elk were formerly numerous in this Amt, but are now only to be found in the largest forests, west of the Eandsfjord. The average number of bears killed is HEDEMAEKEN AMT. This large and important province is bounded on the north by South Throndhjern Amt ; on the west by Christians Amt ; on the east by Sweden ; and on the south by Agershuus Amt. The Glommen river traverses it from north to south, till it reaches Konsvinger, when it takes a turn to the west. The Orkla river runs through its north-western parts, and the Trysil, or Klar Elv, its eastern part. This latter river runs out of Faermund Soen, and empties itself into the Wenern lake. This province abounds in immense forest tracts, the principal of which are in the southern and eastern districts. The Hedemarken Bonder are a very superior class to those found in other parts of the country ; many of them are exceedingly wealthy. They are extremely 76 SPORT IN NORWAY. hospitable; and, as a class, are much more lively in their manners than their brethren from other parts of the country, insomuch that they are called " the Frenchmen of Norway." The accommodation to be met with throughout Osterdalen is very superior to that found in the western parts of the country, both as regards general cleanliness and fare. The same may also be said of the sasters, which in many districts are so extremely dirty, and so thickly inhabited by lively creatures of all sorts, as to render a stay in them extremely precarious. The general scenery in this province is not im- posing : there are no fosses or picturesque valleys to charm the traveller, though the interminable forest tracts present to the eye a majestic appearance not to be found elsewhere. It is probably owing to this circumstance that Hedemarken has, comparatively, been but little visited; travellers to the north generally selecting the more picturesque route of the Dovre Fjeld. But in point of trout-fishing and general shooting combined, I should decidedly give the palm to this Amt before any other in the whole of Norway. It would, in my opinion, be quite worth the tra- veller's while to select this route either on going to or returning from the north. Neither need the scenery HEDEMAEKEN AMT. 77 of the Dovre Fjeld be missed, as a cross road from Neby in Tonsaet runs through Foldalen to Jerkin. I do not think much of the Glommen as a fishing river, noble stream though it be. At all events I have never had, neither have I heard of others having, much sport in it. Its tributary, the EENA ELV, however, which rises in Ovre Rendalen, and flows through Storsden, and falls into the Glommen near Aamot, is a splendid trout-stream. It may be fished all the way up from the Glommen, but is best from Disaet upwards. At this place there is a very clean and comfortable station, close to the river, and capital sport may be had here. Above this is Lonsaet, at the southern end of the lake. The station here is kept by a wealthy Bonde, and is all, barring musquitoes, that the sportsman can desire. The charges, moreover, as is almost universally the case in Osterdalen, are very moderate. Trout and grayling of a large size may be taken. In 1861, two Englishmen bagged in one day, fair fishing, rather over 120 Ibs. of trout and grayling at this place. The lake is about thirty miles in length, and a small steamer plies up and down daily. At the northern end at Akre the fishing is also excellent ; but the ac- commodation, unless one can get quarters at a Bonde's Gaard, is not nearly as good as at Lonsast. There is no fishing to be had higher up in Kendalen than this. 78 SPORT IN NORWAY. The fishing at Lonsaet is to my mind superior to that at Akre, not only because there is a much larger extent of water, but because there are not so many boys constantly flogging the water as is the case at the northern end. At the very time that the large bag above named was made at Lonsat, I was at the northern end of the lake, and had but poor sport in comparison. The water was too high. But I discovered, and the experience of the natives confirmed me in my inference, that the fishing at Akre is best when the river is low, and at Lonsaet when it is high, and vice versa. Atten- tion to this may possibly prevent disappointment. The MISTA ELY, a brawling and impetuous mountain stream, flows into the Kena at Akre. It abounds in splendid fish ; but owing to its steep sides and general inaccessibility, is rather a difficult river to fish. Capital fishing may be had in the Storsoen by rowing backwards and forwards across the mouth of the Eena. I have taken several fine trout and large pike here, spinning. The TEYSIL, or KLAE ELV, running out of Faemund Soeii, is a magnificent river, and has been rarely visited by Englishmen. When I was there about three years ago, I was told that I was the second Englishman who had ever fished in it. It can be best reached from Akre or Lonsset across the mountains. A guide and HEDEMARKEN AMT. 79 a pony are indispensable. The journey takes about ten hours, and is as lonely and nigged as mountain fjelds covered with nothing but reindeer moss can make it. On a clear day the Dovre may be distinctly seen in the distance ; and the snow-capped top of Snehaetten stands out in bold relief when the atmo- sphere is clear. The guide will require three dollars, including the pony ; at least I had to pay that sura. A short distance below Faemund Soen the fishing is of a most superior class ; and though a good deal of netting is done, yet it is a district so thinly inhabited that there are but few to interrupt the angler. A tent, though desirable, is not absolutely requisite. Very fair quarters, and a boarded bedroom, with a bedstead and clean sheets all to yourself (!), are to be had at Sundeth Gaard — a luxury not always to be had in outlying districts. Trout of a very large size may be taken. The fishing is best from boats, as the river is broad. These two rivers, the Klar and the Kena, are decidedly the best rivers in the whole province. The OSEN ELV, falling into the Kena a short distance before this latter empties itself into the Glommen, is a nice trout-stream ; and the AASTA ELY, felling into the Glommen near Bjornstad, is a very likely-looking stream, and has some remarkably fishy-looking pools. 80 SPOKT IN NORWAY. Of the other rivers in this Amt I know nothing, and will not, therefore, hazard any information. The general shooting in this Amt is first-rate. For elk deer, Osterdalen, Kendalen, and Solor are the best districts in the whole of Norway, and will be more especially alluded to in the chapter on elk-hunting. The mountain plateau between Eendalen and Trysil frequently abounds with reindeer. The lofty Solen Fjeld, midway between the two, is seldom, if ever, without them. A short distance from here there is a most comfortable and convenient saeter. Capercalzie are numerous in all the forests, and hjerper are ex- tremely abundant. Good ryper-shooting may be had near Koraas, Tolgen and Trysil. Stor Elvedalen will be found an exceedingly good place for the sportsman, and comfortable quarters may be had. Shot guns are never used by the peasants in Oster- dalen or Eendalen, so that for this reason better shooting may be had. Kongsvinger and its neighbour- hood will afford good sport, and is within easy distance on the new branch of railway from the capital. " In the autumn of 1859," a friend writes me word, " I made an exploring expedition through the forest country between the valleys of the Glommen and the Klar, and then into Sweden towards Dal Elv. This country lies to the north of that mentioned by Lloyd, and the greater portion of it had never before, I believe, HEDEMARKEX AMT. 81 been explored by any traveller. It is a wild and thinly-inhabited district, and the game is consequently but little disturbed. Bears seem to be pretty numerous in parts, and elks also. I think Grammel Lordalen, on the Loren Elv, a tributary of the Swedish Vestre Dal Elv, would be the best head-quarters. Tolerable ac- commodation is to be had at Eric Lordalens, and a capital bear-hunter, Johann Persen, lives close by. There were a great many wild ducks on the Loren Elv, between Grammel and Ny Lordalen. I was greatly pleased with the boats on the Loren, and the admirable way in which they are managed. The boats are very similar in form to some of the North American canoes ; and I thought that Eric and his nephew handled their poles almost as cleverly in the rapids as my old friends in New Brunswick used to do among those of the Nessissiquit. In some parts of this eastern forest district I found black game very abundant, particularly on the eastern side of the Osen So ; it was, however, no easy matter to get shots at them." Bears are tolerably numerous. In 1861, an officer in the Norwegian army, and an ardent sportsman, had the unprecedented good luck of shooting three bears in one day in Osterdalen. The average number killed is 12^5 per annum. G 82 SPORT IN NORWAY. AGERSHUUS AMT. This province, the capital of which is Christiania, situate at the head of the Christiania Fjord, is bounded on the north-east by Hedemarken Amt ; on the north- west by Christians Amt; and on the south-west by Buskeruds Amt, and the Christiania Fjord. It contains 40^ square miles, and is divided into three Fogderies. Its scenery, though not grand, has a pleasing interchange of hill, dale, and plain, with extensive forest ranges. The principal rivers are the Vormen, running from the Miosen at Minde into the Glommen at Na3s, and flowing into the Oyeren lake. The fishing in this Amt is very insignificant. To say that salmon are not found in it would be, strictly speaking, incorrect ; but for all practical purposes there is no place worth trying. And though trout may be found in every stream and little " baek," yet no sport is to be had, I may say, in any river in the whole of this province. The Nordmarken lakes, about fourteen or fifteen miles from Christiania, in the middle of an extensive range of forest, contain many fine trout. Leave must, however, first be got from the proprietor, Baron Wedel, who preserves the fishing veiy strictly. Being, how- AGEKHUUS AMT. 83 ever, -within such easy distance, it is much fished by the " cockaigne " of the capital ; and as the accommoda- tion in the forest cabins is as bad as well can be, it is scarcely worth while visiting, especially when much better places can be reached in as short a time. The fishing is entirely from boats, though many hundreds of small trout may be taken in the rivers. The northernmost of these lakes, Sandungen, the baron reserves for his own and his friends' fishing. At Eidsvold, the terminus of the railway, and about forty-two miles from town, capital grayling-fishing may be had in the Yormen in the month of August ; and good quarters may be found at Olsen's hotel, in the same building as the station. Eidsvold is a convenient and central situation, as it is only three hours from town by rail, and about six by steamer from Lillehammer, the north end of the lake. It is a rarity to catch a trout here, but the grayling-fishing is really superior. In the Oyeren Lake the Perca luscio perca, pike perch (gjors, norsk) may be taken. This rare and peculiar fish attains a large size, and is frequently taken up to thirty pounds in weight. It is a quick- growing fish, and is excellent for the table. For further and fuller accounts, the reader is referred to Lloyd's ' Scandinavian Adventures,' vol. i. p. 27. Eeindeer are not found in this Amt. Elk may 84 SPOKT IN NORWAY. occasionally be met with in the forests in the neigh- bourhood of Eidsvold. The Nordmarken forests used formerly to be great strongholds for feathered game ; but proximity to the capital, in a country too where the game-laws cannot be strictly enforced, has of late years considerably deteriorated them. Eyper are not found in this Amt. Fair woodcock-shooting may be had in the spring near Eidsvold, and in the autumn the Yormen swarms with ducks. Excellent snipe-shooting may be had on some small islands at the northern end of the Oyeren lake. They are mostly the solitary snipe. I have heard of a,s many as forty couple being killed in the day. Of late the peasants have become rather tenacious, and the stranger may get warned off". They shoot themselves now-a-days (a few years back and they would never have dreamed of letting fly at a bird on the wing), and have rather a good plan for beating the ground. Two persons take hold of a long and heavy rope, one at either end, and let it drag on the ground. The shooter walks in the middle. The end of July and beginning of August is the best time, just before they commence mowing. The route to the Oyeren is by rail to Lille Strommen, and thence by boat for about ten miles down the river. It is easy to get back to Christiania the same evening. SMAALEHNEXES AMT. 85 Bears are rarely met with in this amt, J-f of a bear being the average per annum. In severe winters, lynxes have been killed near Christiania. SMAALEHNENES AMT. This Amt is bounded on the north by Agershuus Amt ; on the east by Sweden ; and on the west and south by the sea and Sweden. It is very flat, and has extensive tracts of plain. In an agricultural point of view it is very important, as it contains more tillable land than any province in Nor- way. Its superficial area is 33^ square miles. The Glommen river intersects it from north to south, and in its course through the northern part forms eighteen falls of no great height, and then flows tranquilly till it reaches Sarpsborg, where it forms the grand Sarpfoss, 320 feet above the sea. Salmon go up to this foss, but I have never heard of their taking the fly. In the neighbourhood of Frederickshald, memorable for the death of Charles XII., some fair salmon-fishing may be had in the ENNINGDALS ELY, flowing into Ide Fjord near Berby. Berby Gaard owns the fishing, where leave may probably be obtained. The shooting in this Amt is insignificant, neither rein, elk, nor ryper being found. Bears are seldom met with, and form an almost inappreciable average. 86 SPORT IN NORWAY. CHAPTEE II. THE WILD REINDEER AND ELK OF NORWAY, THEIR HISTORY, HAUNTS, AND HABITS.* PERHAPS of all sport (let .us exclude lion and tiger hunting — bear-shooting is comparatively tame), that of hunting the wild reindeer is the most inspiriting, and possesses the greatest attractions. Glorious sport as salmon-fishing may be and is, yet, to come up on the fjelds after having been pent up in the valleys for six weeks, and to breathe the pure, fresh mountain air, affords a relief to body and mind which experience alone can fully appreciate. Grouse are generally abundant (not the red grouse of Scotland, though I believe they are exactly the same species, the -difference in plumage being only caused by climatic influences), and ptarmigan may be found everywhere on the high fjelds. But reindeer-hunting is the peculiar charm of the mountains of Norway. I am not going to indulge * This account of the reindeer has lately appeared in the ' Field.' THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 87 in any hypothesis as to the orthographical way of spelling the word, therefore, reader, free your minds from any alarm on that score. First, let me tell you something of the history of the reindeer in Norway, which, thanks to Mr. Asbjornsen (with whose writings Mr. Dasent has made the reading public well acquainted), I am able to do. Like all other ruminant animals in Europe, the reindeer was formerly much more numerous than at the present day. It was plentiful in Germany in the days of Julius Cassar. That distinguished individual, great general as he undoubtedly was, was not much of a sportsman, for he seems to have had a very confused idea of what the reindeer was, and to have confounded it with the elk and the wild ox, all of which animals he speaks of having found in the Hercynian forest. In the Louvre at Paris there is a mosaic which represents a reindeer feeding by the side of a river, the banks of which are thickly covered with fir. It is supposed to have been executed to commemorate some victory of the Eomans in Germany. Cassar also mentions that the Germans used reindeer skins for clothing. They must, therefore, have been very abundant ; a fact which is most satisfactorily confirmed by the fossil remains of horns and bones which are found in the old peat-bogs up to the Baltic Sea. From the northern parts of the continent of Ger- 88 SPORT IN NORWAY. many — but long before Caesar's time — the reindeer had wandered northwards as far, indeed, as the province of Scania, which was" at that time connected with Germany ; for not only in that province, but in Born- holm, Zealand, and in other places of Denmark, bones and horns have been discovered similar in all respects to those of the animal which is now to be found on the mountains of Norway. But it is tolerably clear that the fossil remains just alluded to did not proceed from the Norwegian family. Neither did the German stock extend further north than Scania ; for no traces or fossil remains are found in all the intervening terrain between Scania and the province of Nordland, whilst they are numerous in those districts immediately south of Scania. The reindeer, then, must have first invaded Norway by a different route, and at a later period. Indeed, it was not till after the land between the Gulf of Bothnia and the White Sea- had appeared above the surface of the water. In remote ages, when the Siberian plains which now border on the Arctic Ocean were still immersed, the reindeer's original home was in the high alps of Central Asia. Simultaneously with the appearance of land above the surface, it is assumed that they began to migrate westwards, keeping to the high lands of Finland, which traverse that country, and which are, THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 89 in fact, a collateral branch of the mountain ranges of Norway. By this same route, too, the Lapps un- questionably made their first appearance into Norway. Indeed, the very existence of this extraordinary people seems to have been mysteriously connected with that of the reindeer ; and it is more than probable that the reindeer served as their pilots from the remote parts of Asia to the mountain ranges of Norway, while at a later period, again, the paths made by deer and Lapps from the fjords to the fjelds served as tracks for the Gothic race on their wandering up from the coast into the interior. This seems to be the only reasonable solution of the fact that, in the alluvial deposits of Scania, fossil remains of reindeer are found bearing incontestable signs of being the remains of animals exactly similar to those now existing on the fjelds of Lapland and Norway, whilst in the intermediate parts not a single fossil remain has ever been discovered. The wild reindeer may be found on the high fjelds of Norway as far south as lat. 60°, wherever the altitude is above the limit of the willow and the birch, viz., about 3,400 feet. They are more numerous in the west and south-west of the mountain plateaux than in the north-east, probably owing to the absence of Lapps in those parts, who hunt them whenever and wherever they can. Neither is the wolf, the Lapp's constant 90 SPORT IN NORWAY. companion, so numerous as in the north-eastern dis- tricts, where the mountains are skirted by inter- minable masses of forest, and where the wolves have their regular home. On the fjelds between Christiania and the province of Bergen, and in the Saetersdal fjeld, in the province of Christiansand, reindeer are more numerous than in any other part of the country. Incredible numbers of them are occasionally to be seen about Koldal and Voxli. Professor Nilsson, in his ' Scandinavian Fauna,' says " that in the beginning of June, 1826, he was told that the fjelds for the breadth of about three and a half miles were so thickly covered with these animals that they resembled an immense flock of sheep. The does had just calved, and the young ones were following their dams. The herd extended so far that the eye could distinguish neither beginning nor end. Ulti- mately they divided into three parts," &c. This account recalls to mind the statements of the countless herds of antelopes in Africa, or of the buffalo in America, so often dwelt on by travellers. That branch of the Langfjeld which is bounded on the north by the Hallingjokul, and on the south by Nubseggen, is one of their favourite resorts. Some years ago it was by no means rare to meet with herds consisting of several hundreds here; and I have been only recently informed by a gentleman (now Professor THE WILD EEINDEER OF NORWAY. 91 of Mineralogy at the Christiania University) who spent his youth in these parts, and had been, moreover, a very skilful hunter, that he once saw a herd numbering between 5,000 and 10,000 ! Such sights are of course rare, and perhaps less common now than ever. In that extensive mountain tract which includes the highest fjelds of Norway, between Gudbrandsdal, Val- ders, and Bergen Stiffc, by the Bygdin and Gjendin Lakes, and on Laesjo and the Eomsdal Fjeld, large herds of reindeer may be found the whole year round ; and it is no uncommon sight in the autumn to see herds numbering several thousands, whilst on the Kundene and on the Dovre Fjeld, between Hallingdal and Leerdal, herds of from 300 to 1,000 deer are frequently seen. It often happens that, owing to wind and weather, the too-frequent attention of hunters, and the incessant persecutions of their old enemies the wolves, the reindeer entirely disappear from one district and appear in preponderating numbers in another. Although, as above stated, they are to be found on all the high lands from the North Cape to Saetersdal (i.e., through 10° of latitude), yet it is especially in the great continuous mountain ranges or plateaux, where the snow lies the summer through on the fjeld sides, that the reindeer properly have their home. 92 SPORT IN NOEWAY. But, from the causes I have referred to above, they seldom remain on any one spot for a long time ; indeed, they are constantly on the move, so that it by no means follows that they will be found in the same parts two consecutive years. The Dovre Fjeld, with its branches to the east, west, and south, is one of their favourite haunts. The Jotun Fjeld is probably the central point of that family, the divisions of which roam through the north-western parts of Gudbrandsdal, Valders, Nordfjord, Sondfjord, and Sogn. The im- mense plateau lying south of the road from Hallingdal to the Sogne Fjord, and containing numerous snow- capped mountains, the western declivities of which are covered with Hardanger glaciers or Folgefond, is not so sharply separated from the Jotun Fjeld, as to prevent the tribes which properly belong to each range at times intermingling with each other. On the extensive ranges between Hallingdal, Nummedal, and Thele- marken in the east, and Voss, Hardanger, and Eyfylke in the west, large quantities of reindeer are to be met with. From the interior arms of the Hardanger Fjord the sportsman will perhaps reach the best terrain for hunting more readily than by any other route; but the want of anything like decent accommodation must prove a serious drawback to the amateur, unless he comes provided with a tent and canteen all complete. At Lien and Argehoved, near the Mjos lake, in THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 93 Ovre Thelemarken, between Langfjeld and Nubseggen, there are fine tracts for reindeer. Indeed, the in- habitants of these districts are "mighty hunters," and subsist principally on venison. Also from Lerdal, Lyster, Jostedal — branches of the Sogne Fjord — good opportunities for sport may be had ; but here, too, the accommodation is extremely deficient. Maristuen, above Lerdal, one station short of Nystuen, the highest part of the Fille Fjeld, will, however, afford good accommo- dation, and is an excellent place to put up at for those who purpose hunting in the Sulitind Fjeld; and Fortun, the highest point in Lyster, is a good station for those who wish to hunt on the Hurrung Fjeld. Nystuen (not to be confounded with the one above), at the head of Valders, will also be found to afford decent accommodation. Laurdal, in Gudbrandsdal, is a favourite resort for Englishmen (excellent general shooting is to be had in the vicinity) ; but it has been so much shot over during the last two or three years that it may be questionable whether good sport is to be relied on there. The fjeld round Vaage parish will afford good sport, and especially Lomseggen, at the western extremity of the lake. The plateau between Kendalen and Trysil, on the borders of Sweden, is occasionally good for reindeer. The accommodation in the saeters of this district is 94 SPORT IN NORWAY. excellent ; indeed, no other part of the country can vie with Osterdal for the comfort, cleanliness, and good fare to be met with.* Though wild reindeer are certainly to be met with in Finmark and in Nordland, yet they are comparatively few in number. Most of the deer in these provinces are tame, and belong to the Lapps. It has been computed that they amount to over 28,000 head. To the Lapp the reindeer is his sole possession, so that it is needless to say how jealously they are guarded. Indeed, there is a heavy penalty for shooting one of them purposely ; and I would recommend no English- man to indulge in eccentricities, for the Lapps occasion- ally take the law into their own hands, as the following history will show : — " Some years ago a number of convicts escaped from the fortress at Vardohuus. In order to obtain food they had recourse to killing tame reindeer. This exasperated the Lapps beyond measure. They tracked these unfortunate poachers from place to place, slowly, but as surely as the bloodhound follows on the track of a runaway slave. For years nothing was heard of them, till at last their blanched skeletons were found, bearing evident signs that their former inmates had fallen into the hands of their remorseless and aven^in^ o o pursuers." Therefore, I repeat (verb, sap.), be careful * Vide Appendix. THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 95 how you meddle with reindeer in Finmark. The Lapps are good shots, and very handy with their rifles. I shall now, after having given the principal habitats (and I may state that my information has been derived directly from several of the best and most experienced Norwegian hunters), allude to the habits of the wild reindeer, together with some occasional re- marks as to the manner of hunting them, which will, I think, prove of general use; but, before doing so, I would venture to caution any Englishman against going up the fjelds too lightly clad. We are not as a nation given to muffle up, and are rather apt to run into the opposite extreme. But for reindeer hunting it is quite necessary to have thick and warm clothing ; for it often happens that the sportsman will have to lie concealed for hours behind a rock after having got into a tre- mendous perspiration, and the sharp mountain air, and now and then a snow-storm (by no means a rarity at high altitudes in August), not to speak of a drench- ing rain, rapidly reduce the temperature of the body, and a severe cold may be the result. Prudence is ab- solutely necessary ; for to be laid up with a rheumatic fever, with no better accommodation than a saeter can afford, and the attendance of a saeter pige (girl), whatever be her charms (and I confess I never could detect them), out of reach of £ doctor, and 1,000 miles from home, is not the most pleasing predicament to find oneself in. 96 SPORT IN NORWAY. The reindeer is unquestionably the most numerous of the large game of Norway, the red deer and elk being comparatively few in number. Yet, in proportion to their number, the quantity which falls a prey to the hunter's rifle is very unimportant ; for they frequent the most inaccessible parts of the country, and nature has, moreover, provided them with extremely sensitive organs of smell.* It is of course a matter of extreme difficulty, and in fact only approximately possible, to ascertain with any degree of precision the numbers of wild reindeer which are annually slaughtered. But when one takes into consideration the quantity of venison which is to be found in almost every house in those districts which are frequented by these ani- mals, bearing in mind that nearly every farmer is a hunter, some of whom kill as many as fifty head per annum (not unfrequently ten on a single excursion), it cannot be computed at less than between 2,000 and 3,000 yearly. Such being the case, there must at least be from 20,000 to 30,000 wild reindeer in Norway, in order to admit of such a yearly diminution. Perhaps it would be nearer the mark to estimate it at nearly double this number ; for it is hard to suppose that one in every ten is annually killed ; and this is the more * An old Norwegian hunter told a friend of mine that he believed great numbers perished annually by falling into the crevices of the glaciers, and that these, added to what the wolves killed, far out- numbered those which fell a prey to the hunter's rifle. THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 97 probable when it is borne in mind that the flocks of tame deer in Finland and Nordland amount to 28,000 head, as above stated.* During the winter months the reindeer keep to the high fjelds. Their food at this time consists almost entirely of reindeer moss and other lichens. Occa- sionally they descend into the regions of the birch and willow to eat the bark from the trees ; but in spring they commence to migrate downwards from their lofty altitudes to visit the grassy dales in the vicinity of the saeters, while further on in the summer they may often be seen grazing in the valleys between the high fjelds. Occasionally they may be seen in early summer grazing * Mr. Asbjornsen is my authority here ; but I must confess the number reputed to be killed annually seems exaggerated. Mr. A. speaks of one Hans Mo, " who annually killed from 40 to 50 head ;" and of a hunter on the Dovre, "who annually sells reindeer hides to the value of 70 dollars, which must have been supplied by at least -J(t i leer." (N.B. May not some of these have been purchased ?) On this point a friend writes me word, who has had much practical ex- perience on the fjelds of Norway : " I was told a few years ago of one of the Gudbrandsdal hunters, who had been out six weeks, having killed six deer, as a wonderful instance of luck. B. tells me of a first-rate Vaage hunter, who once killed 13 in a year, and he says that the great man of all, ' Old Joe,' who is I suppose, par excellence, the 'mighty hunter' of Norway, who has been at it without cessation for fifty years, living almost all his life up in the high fjelds amongst the deer, has slain in his half-century between 500 and GOO. I think one may judge also from the success of our English sportsmen. I have three or four in my eye now, first-rate stalkers and capital shots, who have spent several seasons on the fjelds, with sport varying from zero to, I think, nine head as the maximum ever reached, and I am sure any one of them would con- eider five deer in a season as ample recompense for all his toil." H 98 SPORT IN NORWAY. quietly amongst the cattle. Should the musquitoes prove very troublesome the does betake themselves again to the regions of snow ; but the old bucks, whose hides are not usually of such a delicate texture, find the sweet grass in the lowlands too attractive to be re- linquished for the sake of a few troublesome gnats, and get uncommonly plump and fat. If the summer is an uncommonly rainy one, as has been the case for the last three years, the numerous fungi which the moisture draws forth seduces them into the Scotch and spruce fir forests, where they grow in abundance. They begin to shed their coats about the latter part of July, previously to which they are of a greyish-white colour ; whilst the operation is going on, dappled ; and afterwards a dark greyish-brown. A full-grown buck measures about six to seven feet hi length, and about four feet in height. A very large buck might, perhaps, reach four feet six inches. The head is rather elongated, the nozzle thick, the eyes large and prominent (expressively beautiful, I always think), the ears about six inches in length, and oval. There are two beautiful specimens in the Zoological Museum at the .University of Christiania. One of these, which is a very fine one, was shot by a friend of mine on the fjelds, a fe'.v miles south of Elstad station in Gudbrandsdal. It was the year of the coronation ; and consequently the station-masters were often put THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 99 to their wits' ends to provide something better than " fkdbrod," thick milk, and boiled trout for the royal personages and their suites. One day (it was a Saturday) my friend, who was, as his custom every year is, bivouacking on the fjelds in the neighbourhood, received an urgent and pressing message from the station-master, praying him to send by the following Monday at the latest ten brace ot grouse. Now, the message did not arrive till late on the Saturday evening. What was to be done? Either he and his companion must go out on the Sunday, which they were not in the habit of doing, or else her Majesty would not get much of a dinner, that was certain. " Necessitas non habet leges ;" and so off they started early on the following morning. Blush not, reader, if you happen to be a strict Sab- batarian ! for the nonce, loyalty seemed to have been the predominant feeling in their minds ; and if it will at all add to your satisfaction, let me hasten to tell you that they determined as soon as ever they had each shot five brace (for they were to go in different directions) to return home and atone for their misdeeds by a little penance. I don't feel at liberty to tell you what this penance was to consist in, but will leave it to your imagination to find out. Well, off they started. The elder of the two had soon accomplished his task ; and not tempted by the tameness of the birds to follow 100 SPOKT IN NORWAY. them up, returned, according to agreement, to bead- quarters. No sooner had he got back than he began to look about for his companion, who had not yet ap- peared. After waiting a little time, and offering up a cloud of incense, he espied his friend walking slowly, and apparently as if he had been unsuccessful, home- wards. " What ! not got anything ? Well, we must go out again. It will not do to let her Majesty go without her dinner," &c., &c. But while he thus held forth a sly leer came over his younger companion's face, and his frequent glances behind made him also look in that direc- tion. " Halloa ! what is that ? why, ' Gud bevar mig !' " It was a magnificent reindeer, a buck with royal antlers ! Like Jacob of old, he had found his quarry close to hand, within a mile of their quarters, and was fortunate enough to get near him and bring him down. There was no need to go after ryper then — a venison haunch would be more appreciated than grouse. And so there was rejoicing in the camp. The animal was flayed ; the haunch and the five brace of grouse at once sent off to the station ; and so it came to pass that the queen had a better dinner that day than on any other on her route up to Throndhjem. As it was such a noble animal, and the circumstances under which it was shot so in- teresting, the skin was sent to the University ; and there you may see it for yourself, and if you ask for the history of it you will find my statement corroborated. THE WILD REINDEEK OF NOEWAY. 101 On the under side of the neck the hair is long and hangs down in a peculiar manner. It has a short tail, covered sparsely with short stiff hairs. Generally, the reindeer is somewhat smaller than the red deer, and its legs are shorter and appear to be more nimble. While the tame reindeer seldom attains a greater weight than 130 to 140 pounds, the wild bucks are often found the double of this. I have heard of two bucks being shot on the Laesjo Fjeld weighing about 324 pounds each. The outer layer of fat on one of them weighed forty- eight pounds ! The antlers are smooth, rounded off, and flat on the inside ; those of the doe are of the same form as the bucks, only smaller. The periods at which they shed their horns differ greatly. The old bucks usually shed theirs before Christmas, whilst the does and young bucks do not shed them till the spring. In the former, they begin to grow again in the summer, and are then covered with a soft hairy coating of skin. By the middle of September they are perfectly developed, and have now become hard and firm. At this time they may often be seen rubbing their antlers against sandbanks, in order to get rid of the coating of skin, which hangs down in long strips, and stamping with their hoofs on them till their horns are quite bare. During this operation they frequently lose a great deal of blood. Should the weather be sunny their 102 SPORT IN NORWAY. antlers assume a blood- red appearance; but if rainy they are quite white. But towards the rutting season the horns of the bucks are often of a darkish-brown hue, owing to the does "staling" upon ^them. In the case of the young bucks the above operation takes place later on in the season, and of the does last of aU. Hjorthois, in his description of Gudbrandsdal, speaks of " a smaller deer, which he considers to be the roe, and which, he says, is sometimes to be met with in large flocks." With all due deference to the dis- tinguished naturalist, this statement is, I am inclined to think, incorrect; for the roe deer cannot live under the same conditions of climate as the reindeer, and has, moreover, never been found in Norway. Still, several of the peasants believe in their existence, though their testimony is no more to be relied on than that of Hjorthois or the worthy Pontoppidan. The phenomenon of the appearance of these smaller animals has been a sore puzzle to Scandinavian natur- alists; but it is now generally supposed that they have been reindeer which have haunted the loftiest and most inaccessible regions, where a severe climate and scanty nourishment have been ill calculated to produce physical development; or else, that they have been stragglers from tame herds, and have subsequently relapsed into their original wildness. Either of the THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 103 above suppositions is certainly a far more reasonable conclusion to arrive at than to have to believe in the existence of the roe in Norway. As has been above remarked, the tame reindeer are considerably smaller than the wild. Moreover, the reindeer found in Spitsbergen are much smaller than the wild reindeer in Norway, though belonging to one and the same species. It is a well-known fact that a difference of 500 feet in altitude brings one to a tem- perature and vegetable growth corresponding to those existing under a latitude 200 miles further north. Now, according to this computation, the reindeer which frequent the highest parts of the Jotun Fjeld (which is two, three, or perhaps four thousand feet above the plateaux in the east and south-eastern parts) should correspond in size with those found 850 to 1,700 miles further to the north, which brings one to about to Spitzbergen.* Indeed, in the valleys of the Jotun Fjeld, whose peaks rear their summit up through endless masses of ice and snow which never melts, a Polar climate and a vegetation similar to that in Spitzbergen is found to exist. But to come back to our subject. In the summer the food of the reindeer consists mainly of grass, leaves, buds of birch, &c., and moss. It seems especially to have a predilection for acid and bitter plants. The * And yet some large bucks have been killed in the Jotun Fjeld. SPOET IN NORWAY. Ranunculus glacialis, called by the peasants " rein flower," is a great favourite with it. This beautiful and delicate little plant seems to be the advanced guard of the flower world towards the regions of perpetual snow. It is found on the very edge of the glaciers, and is as pale as the melting snow itself. Its bud has a reddish tinge, like to that which the rays of the setting sun cast over a boundless waste of snow. It is a lovely flower to be placed so high up out of ken of the civilised world. No insect seeks for honey within its corolla ; no butterfly ventures up to these ice-bound regions. It is peculiarly the reindeer's flower. They will even scrape the snow away with their hoofs to find it; and wherever the hunter sees the "rein flower" is untouched, he may take it as a sign that there are no deer in the neighbourhood. Besides ' this, the bitter Gentiana lutea, called in Thelemarken " rein sorrel ;" Dryas octopetala, or " rein grass;" the Cerastium, the Rumex digynus, and the buds and leaves of the dwarf birch, Betula nana, are eagerly devoured by them. But in winter the rein- deer moss is almost their sole food, and of this nature has bestowed a plentiful and inexhaustible supply. During the winter the herds usually graze only where there is snow. The largest and strongest bucks go in front, and scrape away the snow with their hoofs ; for, being deprived of their only natural means of THE WILD REINDEER OF NORWAY. 105 defence, they are unable to withstand the vicious pokes in the ribs which they receive from the does. This is the reason why the old bucks, after having shed their horns, separate from the main herd. The reindeer is an uncommonly sure-footed animal ; it runs with as great ease over the steepest slopes as on the level plain. Its broad hoofs keep it from sinking deep into the snow, and thus it does not so frequently fell a prey to the wolf as the long-legged elk, who gets completely bogged directly he attempts to make a run for it. Its general hardiness, and the smallness of its requirements, render it admirably adapted to the rugged and inhospitable regions it inhabits. Some twenty years ago the experiment was made of keeping tame reindeer herds in several parts of Hallingdal, the Fille Fjeld, Hardanger, &c. At first the plan was found to answer, but gradually the animals diminished and died away from various causes, so that they have now quite disappeared. The causes alluded to were as follows: — The tame herds attracted large flocks of wolves, which found the animal in a domesticated state a comparatively easy prey; many also got enticed away by their wild brethren ; and, lastly, the Bonder complained that they spoiled the grass for their cattle in the neighbourhood of the sseters : for it is a known fact that cows, sheep, &c., will not graze where a herd of reindeer has been 106 SPORT IN NORWAY. feeding. Thus, in about fifteen years from their firs introduction into those parts, they were entirely era- dicated. I shall now speak of the manner in which the Norwegians hunt them. It should, however, first be remarked that reindeer always travel against the wind, their sensitive organs of smell enabling them to detect an enemy at a long distance. Whenever, therefore, a westerly wind, for instance, has prevailed for any length of time, the hunter may expect to find them on the westward side of their favourite haunts, and so on. The sportsman will find these remarks of general use. The regular Norwegian hunter, whose principal sub- sistence depends on venison, builds himself a hut of stone and earth in the tract he intends to hunt, always selecting a place where there is sufficient pasture for his horse. From this hut he sallies forth in the morning, returning at night if the chase has not led him too far away, when either he must bivouac under the lee of some rocky ledge, or seek, if possible, the friendly shelter of a neighbouring saeter. He is usually provided with a telescope, and takes his dog with him, a little wiry terrier sort of a dog, with long pointed nose, short ears, and curly tail. Unless it is a prodigy it is held in a leash. These dogs have a remarkably keen scent, and when well trained are a THE WILD REINDEER OF XORWAY. 107 very valuable acquisition. I have known as much as WL, and even more, given for one, which, though perhaps a small sum in an English sportsman's eyes, is a little fortune to a Norwegian hunter. They can scent a deer a surprisingly long way off, when they give unmistakeable signs to their master that they are on trail. I have known them scent deer three miles distant when the wind has been blowing fresh. They seldom or never give tongue, but should one ever transgress in this way, besides sundry pokes and kicks, accompanied by such a volley of oaths* as only a Norwegian, I think, is capable of evolving, it has to submit to the indignity of a muzzle. To insure sport an Englishman should always have an experienced hunter and dog with him ; for otherwise he may come plump into the very middle of a herd, but out of shooting distance. Moreover, if a deer be wounded, the dog is then of inestimable service, for he will follow it and rarely fail to bring it to bay. When a hunter has succeeded in killing a deer, he immediately proceeds to flay it, takes the entrails out, * I think the following specimens, which require a tolerable acquaintance with the language to be able to understand, will con- firm this opinion. The Bonder seem to have an ascending scale, beginning with a simple " take you " to " May the boil your heart's blood;" "May he play a game of five-card loo in your sinful bowels;" "May he cut up your liver and lights into such small pieces that the lice may have to go on their knees to eat them up ;" with many intermediate ones, but this is the climax ! 108 SPORT IN NOKWAY. and quarters it. He then wraps the skin round the venison, and buries it in a hole in the ground, care being taken to prevent the gluttons and foxes from paying it a visit, by heaping heavy stones upon it. He then hurries home for his horse, and carries it away the following morning. Eeindeer principally rely on their keen sense of smell to guard against surprise. The sight of a human being does not seem to cause them much alarm. I once shot at a reindeer which was a long distance off, and missed. Directly I had fired the animal stopped and quietly scrutinised me, then trotted off for a hundred yards or so, and stopped again. It was monstrously tantalising, for I had plenty of time to reload, only I was far out of shooting distance. Sir J. Franklin remarks this peculiarity in the North American reindeer. "Their curiosity,5' he writes, " often causes them to come close up and wheel round the hunter." In the rutting time the Lapps frequently tie up a couple of tame does to serve as decoys, while they themselves lie in ambush. In the middle of the day the reindeer take their siesta, always selecting for this purpose as inaccessible a place as possible. It is then almost an impossibility to get within shot of a herd, as some of their number always do duty as sentinels. V V THE WILD EEINDEER OF NORWAY. 109 When a herd is on the move it is worse than useless to lie in their road, as their sharp noses readily detect danger, and they will start off in wild flight ; and it is of little avail to endeavour to follow them in their rear. Should the herd disappear over a hill, the enthusiastic and inexperienced hunter will think " now is the time to push on ;" but not so the cool old hand, for he knows well, from dearly-bought experience, that after having disappeared as above said, they universally throw out three or four of their rear guard, which retrace their steps till they come back to the top of the hill down which the main body has only just gone. These remain there for some minutes, carefully examining the whole country in their rear; and not until they have satisfied themselves that there is no cause for apprehension will they quit the spot. They then scamper back and rejoin their companions, who are awaiting them out of shot of the summit of the said hill. Many and many a chance has been lost by incautiously appearing too soon from behind one's hiding place. The best and only safe way of coming within shot of a herd that is on the move is to approach them on the flank. But great caution is necessary lest a straggler gets wind of you. The above remarks I have been favoured with by a friend of mine, a very experienced hunter, and they will, I hope, prove useful. 110 SPORT IN NORWAY. To the mountaineer the wild reindeer is of in- estimable value, its flesh, hide, antlers, marrow, fat, &c., all being employed in several branches of domestic economy. When dried in the wind, the flesh is often used as a substitute for bread. The learned but not very trustworthy bishop, Pontoppidan, speaks of a use to which the antlers are put : — " When the reindeer shed their antlers, and the new ones begin to appear, they are covered with a sort of skin, and are so soft that they can be cut with a knife like a sausage, and are considered a great delicacy. Hunters eat them raw for lack of provision when on the high fjelds." This is not very improbable (as at this period the antlers consist of a web of small blood-vessels and stringy fibres), especially when it is borne in mind that hunters will not unfrequently take a draught of the blood from the fresh killed animal in lack of better nourishment. But the following remark of the worthy prelate is not quite so easily to be swallowed. He says : " There-is a worm generated under the outer skin of the antlers, which it eats off when they have attained their full size ;" and that " they have a peculiar hole in the eyelid to peep out of when they cannot hold their eyes open on account of the drifting snow ; a proof," adds his reverence, " of the wise providence of the Creator." Reindeer venison is an extremely wholesome and nu- tritious food. In flavour it very much resembles that THE WILD REINDEER OF NORVVAf. Ill of the red deer, but is somewhat darker in colour ; it should be soaked for twelve hours previously to being roasted or baked, in vinegar and water. Unless it is well larded it will eat somewhat dry, and it should be served up with a sauce made of sour cream. I have never eaten better sauces than those made by Norwegian cooks. Our English game would, in my opinion, be much improved by them. The following is the receipt of the sauce with which they serve up all sorts of game, and it cannot be too strongly re- commended : — EECEIPT FOB SAUCE USED WITH GAME, &c. — Game in Norway is always baked in an iron saucepan over a hot plate ; a lump of butter is put in with it, and, when this has melted, about a tablespoon of water is added. It must be constantly stirred, and more water added as required. When the bird, or whatever it be, is done, the gravy is poured into a clean frying-pan, then one or two tablespoonfuls of sour cream are added, and the whole stirred about till it boils ; it is seasoned with pepper and salt to taste. Sour cream is preferable to, sweet' cream. Game, &c., should always be well larded. When the rutting season approaches (about the middle of September), the flesh of the bucks begins to have a strong and unpleasant flavour. That of the does is, however, eatable till over Christmas. Young 112 SPORT IN NORWAY. venison is best in August. I would recommend any one who has a fancy to try what rein venison is like to write word to Mr. Bennett, of Christiania, who I am sure would, with his usual afiability, execute any commission. There are few things better than a venison steak before it has been frozen ; but this is only to be had up the country, as the Bonder wait till the frost has set in before sending it to the Christiania market. One word of advice to novices, and I have done. Do not shoot a deer before the 1st of August, and don't take pot-shots at fabulous distances ! THE ELK IN NORWAY. 113 THE ELK IN NORWAY. In olden times, when the population of Europe was considerably less than at the present day, and when the climate withal was much colder, and but little land, comparatively, under cultivation, the elk-deer was com- mon in Central Europe. Julius Caesar speaks of it as being found in the Hercynian forest ; and, indeed, the Eomans knew of its existence in Scandinavia, with which country they had commercial relations, and where they also had regular agents established. The Greeks, however, do not seem to have been acquainted with it, if we may take the absence of any allusion to it in the works of Aristotle or Herodotus as a negative proof. The elk has long since disappeared from Germany. I believe 1746 is the date when the last elk was shot in Saxony. In company with the reindeer, the elk made its appearance in the peninsula of Scandinavia at a time when the province of Scania was connected with the continent of Germany. Judging from the numerous fossil remains that have been found in the peat-bogs and morasses of Scania, it may be inferred that elk-deer were formerly very numerous here, and also of a larger size tnan the animals now existing. And even in the mediaeval ages they must have been tolerably plentiful 114 SPORT IN NORWAY. in these parts, for among the remains of slaughtered animals which a few years ago were discovered in the vicinity of the convents in that province, elk bones and horns were found in abundance, bearing evident marks of the knife or saw of the cook. But gradually, as the land was reclaimed and put under cultivation, and, in consequence, became more thickly inhabited, the elk-deer seem to have shifted their quarters more towards the north, where the immense ranges of forest and wild mountain tracts afforded an insuperable (in those days) hindrance to the advance of civilization. It appears from some very old documents that the elk-deer is mentioned as one of the "noxious animals" in one of the provinces of Sweden ; it may therefore be assumed that it was numerous in those days. At the present day it is found in Sweden, south of the province of East Gothland, and is more numerous in Jemteland, Herjedal, and Dalarne, than in any other parts of the country. Angermannland is its northernmost boun- dary. It is not found, I believe, above the limit of Scotch fir, or about 3,000 feet above the sea. Before proceeding to speak of its former and present habitats in Norway, it may be mentioned that elk-deer may be found in Finland, Lithuania, and Eussia from the White Sea to the Caucasus. It is also found in the forests of Siberia to the river Lena, and in the neigh- THE ELK IN NORWAY. 115 bourhood of the Altai Mountains. In parts of North America it is found in comparatively large numbers. The elk was formerly found much further north in Norway than is the case at the present day, and was also much more numerous. But towards the middle and latter part of the eighteenth century its numbers were considerably reduced. It was hunted remorselessly ; and as its flesh, hide, &c., were extremely valuable, especially in a cold climate, where provisions were scarce, and warm clothing at a premium, it is not very surprising that " everybody's hand was against " the poor creature. At that time it could not look to the law for protection, and had therefore to trust only to the compassion and better feelings of the Norwegian Bonde. Of course there were some few cases where attempts at protection were made, but these were few and far between; and even the marvellous tales which were current and were firmly believed by the Norwegian peasantry (who are even now-a-days far more ready to trust in the supernatural than the natural), e. g., " that elks, when wounded, have been known to make for the nearest farm-house, and have then sprung on to the roof, where they have knelt down and begged for their life," did not prove a sufficient safeguard. By the beginning of the present century it was tolerably evident that the elk-deer would soon take its 116 SPORT IN NORWAY. rank among the animals of bygone days. In fact, between the years 1810 and 1830 there were only about three places where they were to be found, namely, in some parts of the province of Throndhjem and in Oster- dalen. Fortunately, government now stepped in, and in 1818 passed a law .that not a single elk should be killed for the next twenty years. In 1845 this strin- gent but necessary enactment was again modified, and now the law stands as follows : — that " elks can only be killed between August 1st and November 1st, and then only one on each separate property, under a penalty of forty dollars." This law is, however, fre- quently broken. For the penalty is so laid that half goes to the informer, half to the poor-box of the district in which the elk is shot. Thus if A. shoots an elk at an unlawful time, his brother B. has nothing to do but cut off to the nearest Foged, or magistrate, and lay an information against him, and recover half the fine ; and as the flesh and hide, &c. are quite worth that sum, the poacher is not a loser, and has the fun into the bargain. The penalty is to be raised shortly, and several alterations, in fact, are to be made in the game laws * of Norway. As may be imagined, it could be no very difficult thing to eradicate animals of such size from the face * These will be found at the end of the chapter. THE ELK IN NORWAY. 117 of any country. Mr. Asbjornsen instances a case in point, where the elk was formerly numerous, and is now non inventus. And that is in the Aland Isles, where, " during the Finnish war, they were so plentiful that the army was provisioned with elk venison instead of beef." During the last twenty years, however, elk-deer have been steadily on the increase, not only owing to the protection afforded them by the law, but because they have abandoned the more northerly and easterly dis- tricts for quarters where the wolf has not been in such large numbers. And though many have been, espe- cially during the last few winters, shot at unlawful times, yet the indignation that was then evinced, and the publicity that was given to the cases, have done a good deal towards stopping this poaching. A few years ago, elk were numerous in the Trysil forests, which adjoin Sweden. But so were the wolves ; and these committed such havoc amongst them as to drive them more to the westward. Besides Namdal, and some other places in Throndh- jem Stift (diocese), elk-deer may almost always be found throughout Osterdal, in Solors, on the borders of Sweden, in the valley of the Glommen, Odal, Vingers, and in some of the forests of Romerige and Smaale- nene. They are not unfrequently seen in the forests near 118 SPORT IN NORWAY. Eidsvold, about forty-two miles from Christiania, and in many parts of Hedemarken. The engineer of the new railway from from Stor-Hamar (half-way up the Miosen lake) to Grundsaet, told me that one of the first trains they ran on that line nearly proved the death of a magnificent elk. Somehow or other it had got on the line as the train was coming up, and being unused to the strange appearance "of a great long thing with a green and red head puffing and skreeking like any think," as the Yorkshireman said, it stood as if entranced to gaze on the strange phenomenon ; and had not the engine-driver pulled up in time, it would in all probability have been run over. Last autumn, 1862, two elk-deer astonished us in Christiania by making their appearance in the suburbs of the town. They had swum over a branch of the fjord, and had found their way into a man's kitchen-garden, much to the alarm of sundry old women and several little children. One of them ultimately got killed, I regretted to hear. Before proceeding to speak of their habits, manner of living, &c., I would strongly recommend any Eng- lish sportsman who feels desirous of having an elk- hunt to make a note of the following hints. By bearing them in mind he may stand a good chance of success. Let him then go by train from Christiania to Lille Strom, half an hour's trip, and from thence take the THE ELK IN NORWAY. 119 branch line to Kongsvinger, getting out at Skarnaes. Next, he must find his way by carriole to Stormoen, and inquire at the post-office for one " Frederik Olsen Knauserud, in Nordre Odal under Tannaes." He is an old and experienced hunter, and has shot not only numbers of elk, but more bears have fallen to his rifle, I have been told, than is the case with any other Norwegian. He is well up to the craft ; has a good dog ; and as " Nordre Odal " is, perhaps, the very best place for elk in the whole country, it is not unlikely that some good sport may be had. Some friends of mine hunted there last autumn, and saw three or four elk, if not more, killing two. The principal food of the elk consists of the leaves of young birch shoots, the bark of different kinds of trees, grass, and young twigs. The birch, mountain ash, and willow tribe seem to constitute their favourite food. Of grasses, they like those the best which grow in marshy places ; and the Caltlia palustris is perhaps above everything else their most delicate morsel. In the rutting season they are said to devour eagerly the Ledum palustre, which plant is supposed to excite their amatory propensities. When hard pressed, and when their favourite food is scarce, they will eat the berries and shoots of the juniper, Scotch, and occasion- ally the spruce fir, fungi, and lichens. Unripe corn proves an attraction which they cannot 120 SPORT IN NORWAY. resist ; and then their visits undoubtedly cause a great deal of damage to the farmer, almost as much perhaps as the depredations of an elephant in a rice-field in India. But as soon as ever the corn begins to ripen, and the halm to harden, they discontinue their incur- sions. While grazing, they place their fore feet far back, and bend the body over. During the winter time they eat the twigs of birch, willow, and ash ; and in lieu of these, reindeer moss. Two contrary opinions have been held in Norway as to whether the elk committed injuries among the forest trees or not. Some asserted that it did an incalculable amount of harm to the young trees ; others, that it was quite harmless. As is usually the case with ex- treme opinions, both are wrong. In comparison with its large body, the elk requires but little food. For with increasing years it becomes idle and lazy in its habits. It rests during the night, never feeding in the dark, except when the moon is shining very brightly. Moreover, like the cow and the sheep, a considerable time is occupied in chewing the cud. During the rutting season, the males are. very savage, and dire are the conflicts that take place be- tween them to gain the affections of the female. From their great length of leg they are enabled THE ELK IN NORWAY. 121 to lash out tremendously with their hind feet ; but they usually defend themselves against wolves, dogs, &c., with their fore feet, aiming their blows with the rapidity of lightning, and so turning the hoof as to strike the enemy with the sharp point. The pairing season lasts about three weeks. At this time the male and female always select the loneliest and most inaccessible spot possible in the middle of the thickest part of the forest — not more than fifty or sixty feet square — and never leave it on any account, except when frightened away ; and even then they are sure to return thither after the lapse of a few hours. During this season, the male may frequently be heard to emit a curious sound with its long lips, resembling a sharp crack, accompanied by a snorting like that of a fright- ened horse, only much louder and stronger. As the calving time draws near, the female retires into the loneliest spot she can find, always selecting one which is thickly overgrown with bushes. Half an hour or so after its birth, the calf attempts to stand up, being usually helped to get on its legs by its mother's nose. The young ones suck the dam till after the following rutting season ; in feet, as long as there is any milk to be had. When they get a good size, they kneel down like lambs in performing this operation ; and when they have grown too big even to suck comfortably in 122 SPOKT IN NORWAY. this posture, they will lie flat down on their backs. They continue to follow the mother till the third year. The females evince great affection for their young, and have even been known to attack human beings when an attempt has been made to deprive them of them. But it seldom happens that the young calves are captured, for they are tolerably fleet of foot. If hunted they will turn, and run in a ring like a hare ; and if brought to bay by a dog will lash out vigorously with their fore feet. The female goes with young about nine months, and brings forth towards the middle of June. The first time she has only one calf, but subsequently two, and occasionally three, but very rarely. The calves are not spotted at their birth, but are of a light- brown colour. The elk is a first-rate swimmer, and goes ahead through the water with great velocity, making the water hiss and foam again. It is also able to traverse swamps without sinking into the mire. If the ground be very soft, it has recourse to an artful expedient. As soon as it begins to feel itself sinking, it sits down on its hams, stretches out its fore legs, and regularly " punts " itself along ; but should it happen that the swamp is too soft even to admit of this, it adopts the same plan as the mountain ponies do under similar emer- gencies. It throws itself over on one side, draws its THE ELK IN NORWAY. 123 feet together, and kicks them out simultaneously with great violence, and thus manages to jerk itself along. In this way it is enahled to cross places where even the wolf gets completely nonplussed. But on the smooth ice it is perfectly helpless. No cat on walnut- shells, or donkey on stilts, ever looked half so ridiculous as does an elk on the ice. It falls down directly it begins to move, and owing to its length of leg is unable to rise again. The specimen that may be seen stuffed in the Zoological Museum at the Christiania Univer- sity was shot when on the ice on the river Glommen, in Odalen, a few winters back. The elk can run very quickly ; but their powers of endurance are not nearly so great as those of the reindeer. They very seldom break into a gallop, except when suddenly alarmed, but usually maintain a long swinging, lurching kind of trot. The neck is then stretched out, so that the nose is carried parallel with the ground, by which the horns are brought backwards on each side of the neck. In trotting, the hind feet strike against the soles of the fore feet, and produce a clicking sound similar to that often heard in horses. When suddenly startled they go off in a straight direction, trampling down everything that comes in their way ; and their course may be tracked for a long distance by the breaking of twigs and the snapping of branches. A full-grown elk will Aveigh from 700 to 124 SPORT IN NORWAY. 900 pounds, so that it may be readily imagined that the momentum generated cannot be trifling. Keader, when first you went out covert-shooting as a youth, can you not recall to mind how your heart went " pit-pat " as a beater shouted, " Look out ; hare !" or " Mark cock !" Can you not remember how the whining sound of the first pheasant, as it came down quickly with the wind across the ride where you were stationed, raised your excitement to the most frantic pitch ? If you can still recall these feelings, you have a faint, but a very faint idea of what it is to hear the sound of breaking boughs coming straight towards you in the middle of a dense Norwegian forest. Now is the time to be steady, and keep that heart of yours from throbbing and bumping as if it would jump clean out of your breast. Ten to one you will miss if it be the first time you have been out elk-hunting. I did (though that is no reason why you should). I could no more have fired than have done — I don't know what impossibility. I stood like the cockney who had never fired a shot before in his life, when invited down to the country to shoot pheasants. Admiration of the pretty " long-tailed " creatures quite got the better of him, to the intense disgust of the gamekeeper. The Swedes have a very apt term for the feeling which such sights produce in the tyro's breast, viz., " skogs-frossa." And I believe no young sportsman, THE ELK IN NORWAY. 125 at all events, will be able to see a majestic elk for the first time in his life, in its native wilds, without being attacked with this fever in a greater or less When a flock of elks is proceeding through a forest, and no danger is anticipated, they usually go one after the other, like a flock of sheep. Probably this modus eundi is common to all ruminant animals. Strict order is preserved in the line of march ; the oldest goes in front, then the female, while the young calves bring up the rear. So closely do they follow on each other's heels, that each one rests its nose on its predecessor's loins. When trotting, their footmarks are nearly in a right line, and when they gallop all four feet come down nearly together. Those of the male are shorter and thicker at the end than those of the female. This is caused by the former spreading the foot out, and by the latter compressing it. I know nothing more interesting than to watch an experienced hunter with his dog on elk trail. No backwoodsman of North America, such as Cooper loved to dwell upon, went more cautiously to work than does the regular Norwegian hunter. If you want to see a man's soul in his work, just study his method of proceeding the first time you get an opportunity. See how carefully he examines the leaves and young shoots 126 SPORT IN NORWAY. of that birch, and judges by the nibbled leaves how long it is since the elk was there ; watch him turning up the dead leaves and scrutinizing a footmark ; look at him crawling along cat-like on all fours to get a peep over yonder knoll. Neither is his dog idle ; he enters into the sport heartily. Those deep-drawn sniffs, which would make you think the animal would suddenly collapse, indicate plainly that an elk is not far off. Now he stands up on his hind legs, and sniffs away among the birch leaves, where an elk's nose has been, not so very long before. Now he tugs away against the collar as if he would pull you along fifty miles an hour. You are close to your game. Tread very softly; a crackling twig or a rolling stone may mar the labour of a whole day, ay, of two or three. It is intensely exciting work — much more so than in reindeer-hunting, because your horizon of vision is so limited, and you may be close on an elk before you know it. The dung of the elk is soft in summer, resembling that of a cow ; in winter it is hard, and looks more like a bunch of large nuts than anything else. They are possessed of very acute senses, but their powers of smell are not nearly so delicate or so great as those of the reindeer. Judging from the widely-dis- tended nostril one would think the contrary to be the case. On the other hand, their eyesight is extremely THE ELK IN NORWAY. 127 quick ; and this again is remarkable, for in comparison to the size of the body the eye is very small. But lest this should not prove a sufficient compensation for their defective organs of smell, Nature has granted them a most extraordinarily keen sense of hearing. And it is principally for this reason that they are so difficult of approach. When resting, they select rising grounds, where eyes, nose, and ears will be most likely to give them timely notice of approaching danger. When the weather is thick and foggy they will keep to the densest part of the forest, but resort to more open spots on clear and frosty days. The Norwegian hunters use large-bored rifles in elk, reindeer, and bear hunting: these are usually made up in the country, and are not, therefore, remarkable for external beauty and finish. Still many of them carry well. Within the last two or three years, how- ever, the Kongsberg rifle is getting gradually dispersed over the whole country. It is a breech-loader ; and doubtless many of my readers will have noticed speci- mens at the late Exhibition. The barrel is on the Whitworth principle; and the breech-loading part is after their own invention, and is to my mind a most clumsy and unpractical contrivance. However, they are very cheap, costing only about three pounds. The infection of rifle-shooting has reached Norway 128 SPORT IX NORWAY. and Sweden ; there is scarcely a village that lias not its shooting club. Little wonder if the number of native hunters increase ! Some of the old hunters will tell marvellous tales. Up in the country the peasants are extremely super- stitious, and would, I verily believe, sooner give cre- dence to anything very unlikely than to a plain matter- of-fact histoiy. For instance, Mr. Asbjornsen relates : " I have been told that it is worse than useless to aim at an elk's forehead unless at very close quarters ; and in exemplification of this interesting assertion was in- formed that a man once shot seven times at an elk. All seven balls struck the animal in the forehead, and all seven glanced off in different directions. The sug- gestion that it was not owing to any extraordinary thickness of skull, but to weak powder, was, I need scarcely add, pooh-poohed." According to an old saying, the elk-hunter must not only have a firm and steady hand, a sure eye, and a trusty rifle, but he must also be possessed of a hard heart. A dying elk, they say, looks at his murderer in a most reproachful and pitiful manner. I have read of a man who had killed several elks in his time. One day, when out hunting, he came upon a couple, and took aim at the largest one. The ball struck the animal in a mortal part, but it did not immediately fall to the ground. Meanwhile, it kept getting weaker and THE ELK IN NORWAY. 129 weaker from loss of blood, which gushed forth from the wound, but still kept its eyes steadily fixed on the man, looking at him in a most reproachful manner. Moved with compassion, he stepped forward to put an end to the poor beast's sufferings with his " tolle-kniv," when just as he was going to give the coup de grace, the animal cast such a look at him that he was obliged to turn aside till it was dead. Meanwhile, the second elk, as is often the case, had returned to look after its companion. Here was a chance ! Two elks in one day is not such a despicable bag to one gun. But the ordeal through which his nerves had recently passed had completely upset him, so that he could not find in his heart to shoot it. Then and there he made a solemn vow that as long as he lived he would never raise gun any more against an elk, for it seemed to him as if he had for all the world been guilty of murder. The memory of the scene haunted him, I suppose, like the killing of the albatross did the " ancient mariner." Now-a-days in Norway the elk is, I believe, uni- versally hunted with a single dog, trained for the purpose, held in hand. Last autumn, however, two were shot in Odalen by a party of hunters who adopted the plan of " driving" i. e., of stationing themselves in a line at suitable distances from each other, and employing a number of beaters and dogs to drive them in their direction. One of these animals weighed 130 SPORT IN NOEWAY. from 80 to 90 ' bismerpund,' the ' bismerpund ' being 134 pounds English. But in Sweden they have many different methods ; for an account of which the reader is referred to Lloyd's interesting work on sport. Many elks are killed, mostly at unlawful times, on " skie " — of which, for the benefit of those of the unini- tiated, I will give a brief description. They consist of two long pieces of wood — those made of seasoned ash are best — about ten feet long, and four to five inches wide in the middle. They taper in front, and ultimately terminate in a point, being slightly turned up towards the toe, after the manner of a Chinese shoe. I believe they are peculiar to Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia. It is the universal method of getting about during the winter : in fact, the tremendous depth of the snow in many places would render any other mode of going on foot impracticable. It requires long ex- perience to be able to manage them properly ; and to be able to hunt on skie is an art that can only be acquired after years of practice. I believe Mr. Lloyd was one of the few Englishmen who was ever perfectly at home on them. To see a practised "skie-lober" (runner) is really a very fine sight. He will go down the steepest places with the rapidity of an arrow, his body slightly bent forward, holding in both hands a staff about six feet in length, the bottom end pointed to THE ELK IN NORWAY. 131 the ground behind him at an angle of 45° (about). And though going at such a tremendous velocity, he can steer clear of stumps or trees with marvellous nicety, often jumping as much as eighteen feet when occasion requires it. On Sunday the peasants may often be seen in off- lying districts, for instance, in parts of Thelemarken, where there are no roads, coming to church, men, women, and boys; the women frequently carrying babies on their backs, gipsy fashion. In the north, the Lapps, I have been told, leave the babies outside the church to keep them warm. They dig a hole in the snow, and pop them in, leaving a dog to keep guard against any wolves. A friend of mine told me that he has often passed a comfortable night under the snow in preference to going into the filthy huts in parts of Finland. But it is of course dangerous to do so unless well wrapped up, or if the clothes be wet. The practised " skie-lober " binds his skie to his foot so as to prevent their slipping ; but for a tyro this would be highly dangerous, as a broken leg or sprained ankle may, and does, frequently, result from travelling with the " skie " fastened. It is a most exhilarating exercise ; the rapidity with which one rushes through the clear frosty air has a most wonderful effect on the system. The great danger to guard against is catching cold, which from the 132 SPOET IN NORWAY. violent perspiration it educes may easily be the case. In Christiania it is usually the custom for parties of cadets, students, &c., to go out long excursions on Sunday, and have steeple-chases. The accompanying sketch, taken from the illustrated newspaper of the Norwegian capital, may suffice to give an idea of it. I should add that even on level ground seven or eight miles an hour, and even more, can readily be accom- plished by a good runner. But I must pull up. Let me see, I was saying many elk are killed on " skie." Their long legs stick in the snow, so that it is not difficult to come up with them. Many, too, fall victims to the wolves at this season, which are able to run over the snow without sinking very deep, though even these are easily over- taken by the hunter when equipped with his snow " skie." In the winter of 1848-49 there were killed, unlaw- fully, in Vaaler, no less than 140 elks. Though many elks are still shot unlawfully, yet instances (exceptional, undoubtedly) do occasionally occur where the most extraordinary scrupulousness has been evinced by the parties concerned, to the ad- vantage of the elk. I remember reading in the " Mor- genblad," a winter or two ago, about the capture of an elk which was enjoying a swim in a small lake some miles from Christiania. It had been seen from shore, THE ELK IN NORWAY. 133 and at once every boat was put in requisition. A whale chase could scarcely have been more exciting. In the bows of each boat a man was stationed, with a long rope like a lasso, ready to fling it round the animal's horns the first opportunity. After much dodging and doubling, one of the boats eventually succeeded in getting fast, and at once proceeded to tow the poor beast to land, nolens volens. " In the multitude of counsellors the city is safe," says an old proverb ; it proved so at all events with the elk. Had there been fewer participators, the odds would, I think, have been decidedly against its getting off so easily. But as it was, the general feeling prevailed that it would be highly imprudent to resort to extreme measures in the presence of so many witnesses, unless the fortunate crew could first succeed in gaming the ear of the nearest functionary of the law. A council was held. " What shall we do with it, now we have got it ?" " Ask the Foged, of course," said some one, brimming over with admiration for the laws of his country, especially for those relating to the preservation of game. So a message was sent to the Foged. " Elk captured ; what shall we do with it ?" " Let him go," was the brief reply ; and thus the elk luckily escaped this time. I heard of another instance which amused me not a little. An old woman had occasion one fine morning to row across a river to a place where a man had loi SPORT IN NORWAY. bought a small piece of ground. She had scarcely got half way over when she perceived an elk on the op- posite side, standing at about the distance of eighty paces from the door of the man's cabin. It seemed as if meditating on a swim. Thinking it a pleasant sight, she " easied all," and sat looking at the noble beast. But soon other feelings than those of admiration began to be awakened within her breast. Winter would soon be coming on, and a good supply of elk's meat would be no bad thing, leaving the uses to which hide, horns, fat, &c., &c., could be put out of the question. By dint of signs and gesticulations she managed to make the owner of the house acquainted with the proximity of the animal. The man, who was himself an ardent hunter, but at the same time rather nervous about incurring a penalty of forty dollars, deemed it, however, prudent in the first place to consult his book and ascertain whether it was all right. Whether it was or not the story does not relate. But at all events his consultation ended in his bringing out his rifle ; and he' was just proceeding to stalk the elk after the most approved fashion when another difficulty occurred to him, the animal was not on his property. So in he went to have another look at the law. Mean- while the elk, becoming aware that something was between " the wind and his nobility," and not relishing the appearance of the old woman in the boat, quietly THE ELK IN NORWAY. 135 trotted off into the forest. Awful was the wrath and excitement of the old lady, who saw all her fond hopes thwarted by the stupidity of Ole (somehow or other everybody seems to be called Ole), whom she declared she would bang well with her oars if she got within reach of him. Amongst other plans to which poachers have re- course the following is perhaps the most general, and most successful : — The whereabouts of an elk having been ascertained, one of the party, usually the one who is the best shot, conceals himself on the nearest hill. For the elk- deer when startled instinctively makes off to the first piece of rising ground in the immediate neighbourhood, whence it can have a good look out-on all sides. Meanwhile the rest of the party "ring" the animal, and if they are unable to get a shot, one of them makes a slight noise just sufficient to startle it, but not so as to terrify it. The elk at once makes off to the hill in question, where it in all probability meets with its end. Some poachers, I am told, are able to entice the elk close to them during the pairing season by means of some peculiar call. As above stated, the usual way of hunting elk in Norway is with a dog held in a leash. When the dog has got scent of an elk, which it frequently 136 SPORT IN NORWAY. will do at long distances, the hunter gives himself up entirely to its guidance, still holding it in hand ; for it is rarely that a dog arrives at "such a pitch of "canine education" as to be allowed his liberty. When they have approached near to the place where the animals are supposed to be, the dog is tied up to a tree while his master proceeds alone to stalk them. In case one is killed the same method is observed in flaying, quartering, &c., as described before in the case of the reindeer. But so extremely quick of healing are they, that it often happens that the labour of a whole, or even two or three days' hunting is rendered useless by the snapping of a twig or the rolling of a stone. As may therefore be supposed, rough and stormy weather is more propitious to elk-hunting than calm and still weather. I firmly believe, and several hunters with whom I have spoken have confirmed my opinion, that a double-barrelled smooth bore is much better adapted for this manner of hunting than a rifle ; for it generally happens that you can only get a snap shot between an opening in the trees, and as a smooth bore will throw a bullet with tolerable accuracy for seventy or eighty paces, beyond which distance an elk, except when found in the open, is rarely shot, and is, moreover, much easier to take a snap shot with than a rifle, it appears THE ELK IN NORWAY. 137 only reasonable that preference should be given to it. Those who meditate elk-hunting will do well to practise snap shots both with rifle and gun (say at forty or fifty yards, and even more) at a target; and if they can only procure that extremely "rara avis in terris," a dead donkey, stuff him with straw, and put him on stilts, they will have the nearest approach I know of to the real thing. The following account of moose-hunting in Nova Scotia, furnished me by a gentleman who has had practical experience both in that country and in Norway, will, I think, be found interesting :— " There are three ways of hunting the moose in Nova Scotia, ' creeping' ' calling,' and hunting on ' snow shoes.' I have had no experience of the last, not having remained in those parts late enough in the year ; but I believe it is but poor sport, as the wretched moose sinking in, the snow must sooner or later be run down, and you can get a shot at ten yards if you like. " ' Creeping ' (i.e., following in autumn with In- dians by the track, or stalking} is the true sport, and I believe is only practised in Nova Scotia. " The Micmacs are first-rate hunters. I had the best, I believe, in the province, though he was getting rather old. His instinct, for such it seemed, was mar- vellous. I was out for about three weeks in the woods in Nova Scotia in the latter part of September and 138 SPORT IN NORWAY. beginning of October- with two Micmac Indians. Captain H — , a most experienced sportsman, kindly came out with me for the first few days to 'set me going.' The following is an extract from my diary of our first day's hunting : — "September 16th, 1857.— Up before daylight— a fine day with cool breeze — very good, they said, for ' creeping.' We set off in high hopes before sunrise, and in about an hour Joe found a fresh moose-track, which we followed through thick hardwood and over a ' barren.' It was marvellous to see the sagacity of the Indian. The moment he knew he was on game his countenance brightened, and every faculty of mind and body seemed brought into action, yet without displaying the least excitement or want of perfect self-possession. Where I could see no track (and sporting has sharpened my eye pretty well), he seemed scarcely for a moment at a loss. Where footprints failed, the turn of a leaf, the slightest scratch on a piece of bark, or a little twig, seemed signs enough. We worked our way rapidly but cautiously through the thick brush, carefully putting back every branch as we passed, feeling lightly with our mocassined feet the fallen moss-covered trees lest they might not bear our weight. H — insisted that the young hunter should have the first chance, so I followed close behind Joe, who every now and then would turn and whisper, THE ELK' IN NORWAY. 139 'Moose passing through here two hours ago,' (the Indians are very partial to the ' present participle '). ' Here moose lying down,' ' Moose biting this only one half-hour since,' then very softly, ' Put on cap, we close to moose ;' and accordingly in a few minutes (about two hours after we had commenced to follow the tracks) he stopped suddenly and pointed, but without saying a word. A fine bull moose was lying down within thirty yards of us. I was standing a little to the right, and unluckily some thick young spruce prevented my seeing him. H — , who was to the left, had a fine chance, but his rifle missed fire, and away went the moose, crashing through the forest without giving me even a second's sight of him. After a pipe of consolation for our ill-luck we got on the track again, and after following him for an hour more came up with him among some burnt wood. I got a shot at about sixty yards and hit him ; he fell, but immediately rose and went off, and we still followed him perseveringly. This time, however, he seemed determined to wear us out, as he kept almost entirely in the burnt forest, so that we had perpetually to climb and scramble over the fallen and half-rotten timber for some two hours. Joe said the moose was evidently hard hit; but as he was leading us away from our camp, and the day was advancing, we judged it better to give him up, and to make the best of our way back. 140 SPORT IN NORWAY. " After this I had a long run of had luck, hunting diligently day after day, and very seldom finding tracks fresh enough to he worth following, but in the last week I was fortunate enough to kill two moose. I was then encamped on a little island in the middle of St. Mary's Lake, in the heart of a wild and uninhabited part of the province. I roused my sleeping Indians before daybreak, and without waiting for breakfast ' Old Joe ' and I set off for the opposite shore in the little leaky 'dug-out' with which we had contrived to na- vigate the lake. We trudged for some distance through thick forest, and before dawn had reached a ' barren,' where Joe intended to try the effect of a ' call.'* After some little time the call was answered from a great distance. Gradually the sounds became nearer and nearer. At kst a fine bull moose emerged from the forest on the opposite side of the 'barren.' He soon disappeared again, however, and as Joe's most ar- tistic 'calls' could elicit no further reply, our patience was at last exhausted, and we judged it best to go on and try whether we could not track him. To our intense disgust we very soon saw him coming out of a hollow in the ' barren ' (very much nearer than we had supposed him to be), and then trotting off to the woods again. I was on the point of firing, but Joe wisely * The " call '' is made of a long roll of birch-bark. They are much used in Norway for calling the cattle home in the evenings. t THE ELK IN NORWAY. 141 prevented me as it was too far. As the moose had seen us there "was of course no use in following him further then, so we went off to see about our breakfast. As we were re-crossing the barren Joe lingered on a rising ground to have another ' last fond look ' towards the forest. Turning round, I saw him lying down and beckoning to me, so I immediately 6rept up to him and observed, in the direction he pointed, another bull moose standing at the edge of the forest some 500 or 600 yards off. He also, no doubt, had been attracted by the ' call.' We lay and watched him anxiously, as gradually and very slowly he came nearer and nearer to us. At last he was within a hundred yards, and standing still, but he was facing me, and a tree was somewhat in the way too, so I dared not fire. "What a noble fellow he was, as he stood there with his long black hair glistening in the morning sun ! At last he moved slightly to the left, and I fired, aiming immediately behind the shoulder. He wheeled about and trotted off as if nothing was the matter. The second barrel of my rifle missed fire. I then rushed over to where Joe was lying and seized my smooth bore, and gave him both barrels as he was making rapidly for the wood at about 200 yards. This brought him too. In a few minutes more Joe's knife was in his throat. It turned out that the ball of my Lancaster rifle had entered where I intended it should, and had passed through 142 SPORT IN NORWAY. the body, almost touching the heart, and that one ball of the smooth bore had gone through the neck, while another had broken one of the hind legs. " The day I killed my other moose (and indeed, had I been fortunate, might have secured two right and left) I had a great chance of a bear. One does not put the cap on the nipple until the moose is supposed to be near. Whilst we were looking for tracks a bear crossed us, and sat down to look at us, within fifty yards of me. But of course, whilst I was fumbling in my waistcoat pocket for a cap he was off. " One night a bear came and prowled round my ' camp ' for a long time, attracted, no doubt, by the smell of my pork. Unluckily it was a pitch-dark night, and I could not see him ; so at last, getting tired of listening to him, I rolled myself up in my blanket again and went to sleep. " For moose-hunting in Nova Scotia you must ' go in for it' in a much more business-like way than the Norwegians do. There is no use trying it unless you regularly take to the woods for a fortnight or so, and it is pretty hard work, for you have to carry everything you want for the expedition on your back, sharing the labour of this equally with the Indians. Your ' impe- dimenta' consist of a camp (under which high-sounding title is signified a piece of oiled calico about six feet long by five feet wide, intended to be tied in a slanting THE ELK IN NORWAY. 143 position to shelter your head and part of your bodies from the wind and rain at night), blankets, two or three tin kettles, tea, sugar, ship biscuit, and salt pork, and last, but most important of all, an axe. It is no easy work sometimes in '.changing country ' after a hard morning's hunting to have to shoulder your heavy bundle in the afternoon and trudge some ten miles more through the dense forest, often through swamps and over ' windfalls,' with only the left hand free to climb over the latter. Happy is one if encamping that night one can feel out a ' var,' or Balsam fir, to make one's bed. But it is a glorious life !" '• I think," adds my informant, " that the moose of North America is larger than the European elk. Certainly the heads are much finer in America. I have seen a great number of heads in Osterdalen and else- where, and none are to be compared to mine, or to many others I have seen in Nova Scotia." But to return. Amongst the wild animals of Norway the bear, the wrolf, the lynx, and the glutton are the elk's deadliest foes. Probably fewer fall a victim to the "paw of the bear" than to either of the animals above mentioned. Indeed, Mr. Asbjornsen mentions that in Osterdal it was looked upon as an improbability, almost amounting to an impossibility, that a bear would kill an elk, and that when such was reported to have been the 144 SPORT IN NORWAY. case it was ten to one the fabrication of some poacher who sought to cast the blame of "elk-murder" on Bruin's broad shoulders in order to avoid getting into trouble himself. There is reason in this, and little doubt but that poor Bruin has had to bear the blame of countless infringements of the game laws innocently. But that a bear will kill an elk when he gets an opportunity I should be slow to disbelieve, even if the following well-authenticated account did not solve the question. In the autumn of 1850 two hunters in the woods near Aamot in Osterda'l, suddenly came across a bear which had just brought down an elk, and which was so busy in sucking the blood that it was not aware of the approach of danger, and accordingly paid dear for its presumption. As it occurred in the proper shooting season there was obviously no reason for deception being practised on the part of the hunters. AYangenheim avers that in the forests of Lithuania many elks are killed by the bears. "Bruin never ventures," he writes, "to approach a herd of elk, but only looks out for an outlying deer, approaching it stealthily till sufficiently near to give the fatal spring. "When once he has got the animal tightly hugged he commences to suck the blood from the throat. His thirst being slaked, and the elk quite dead, he then covers up the remains with leaves, THE ELK IN NORWAY. 145 boughs, and moss, and pays daily visits to his larder till there is none of it left. "Should the elk, however, discover the approach of its adversary, instead of seeking to save itself by flight it prepares for the battle. Fear is probably the cause of this, and not pugnacity. With its long legs it is capable of lashing out tremendous blows, which require all the activity and dodging Bruin is capable of to avoid. It not unfrequently happens that the bear gets such a ' oner ' over the ear as to make him cry ' peccavi,' and to ' ficher le camp ;' for at the best Bruin in Norway is a cowardly beast. I have been credibly informed that a herd of cows, in a part of Saetersdal, gave a bear which had approached their pasture ground on the mountains such a tre- mendous drubbing, charging at him simultaneously on all sides with their horns, as to make him change his offensive intentions, and execute a 'strategic move- ment' on the shortest possible notice. But should it happen that the bear is able to avoid the deadly kicks and get alongside his prey, he deals the poor elk such a tremendous blow on the head with his powerful fore- arm, as to knock him out of time altogether. Some- times he will even spring on his back, when the affrighted animal at once dashes off, wondering who the is on his back, through the midst of the forest, to the great discomfiture of the rider, who slips igno- 146 SPOET IN NORWAY. miniously off, and goes growling off to lick himself. It must be a strange sight to see." Such is a sketch of the account "Wangeheim gives ; but I should be sorry to vouch for its correctness. If a herd of elk discover a bear in their immediate neighbourhood, they are the challengers, and at once boldly advance to give battle. Lucky then for Bruin if he has time to clamber up a tree, from whence he can safely and calmly "look out upon his pursuers." The wolf is by far a more dangerous enemy to the elk than the bear. For Bruin is safely stowed away in winter quarters, sleeping and sucking his thumb, at a time when the elk is less able to defend itself than at any other, viz., when the snow lies deep on the ground. But a single wolf never ventures to attack an elk alone ; and even supposing that one were to succeed in getting firm hold of it by the loins, its weight would not be sufficient to prevent the animal from rushing off through the forest, and giving him a rougher ride than he had bargained for. It is princi- pally the young calves that fall victims to these rave- nous animals. In hard and severe winters, when the wolves con- gregate in packs, the elk suffer most from their depre- dations. But even then, so greatly do they stand in fear of the awful kicks, that it is only when reduced to the last extremity that they will venture to attack a THE ELK IN NOEWAY. 147 herd. In such cases they endeavour to separate a deer from the main body ; and if they succeed in so doing they set after it like a pack of foxhounds after Reynard, following it unceasingly till they bring it down. Doubtless, many elk fall a prey to the wolf at this season, when the snow lies deep on the ground, as their long legs sink too deep in the snow to be of much service to them either in showing their heels or in using them as a means of offence. The lynx and the glutton have never been known to attack a full-grown elk. The attentions of these animals are confined to the young calves, or to any that have been wounded or are sick. Like the reindeer, the elk is much tormented during the summer with musquitoes and all kinds of abominable flies, with which the forests and swamps of Norway abound. It has been computed that an elk seldom attains a greater age than sixteen or seventeen years. Wangenheim mentions that it is a common oc- currence to light upon dead elks in the forests of Lithuania. The diseases to which they are peculiarly liable are "splenitis" and "dysentery," owing, pro- bably, to their making use of stagnant water in very hot summers. This can, however, scarcely be ap- plicable to the elk-deer in Norway, where it is scarcely possible, either in forest or on fjeld, to go a mile 148 SPORT IN NORWAY. without meeting with a mountain stream of the clearest and most delicious water. The uses to which the dead elk-deer can be applied are as manifold as in the case of the reindeer ; the flesh, hide, hair, knuckles, marrow, fat, sinews, hoofs, &c., being all and each employed in various branches of domestic economy. At the proper season elk venison is considered to be a wholesome and nutritious food, though coarser and less palatable than reindeer venison. The flesh is of a darker colour. As may be supposed, the calves prove the best eating. From the middle towards the end of the month of September, the flesh of the bucks is uneatable, having a rank and nauseous taste, on account of the approaching rutting season. Still, I think, the stomach of a Norwegian Bonde is capable of digesting almost anything ;* an assertion which those who have travelled much in the country will doubtless corroborate. The best time for eating elk venison is undoubtedly in the beginning of August, though that of the does may be eaten till towards the end of September. Mr. Asbjornsen says that he has been informed by an experienced housewife in Solder, who used to keep * On seeing them eat, I have often thought of those lines of H orace, beginning — " Dura messorum ilia," &c. THE ELK IN NORWAY. 149 a large establishment, and had to feed as many as twenty people daily, the year round, that she con- sidered " one elk was about equivalent to two cows with regard to quantity of meat." I mentioned above that nearly every portion of the animal is used up some way or other in household economy. Thus, the hide is tanned and serves for straps, sole leather ; the part under the belly is made into wash-leather, and is used for gloves, lining for coats and cloaks, and formerly was generally used for breeches. The knuckle joints, which are firm and of a remarkably white hue, are used in turner's work; while the horns form handles for knives, or are boiled down into glue. From the hoofs finger- rings are made, which are considered to possess some inherent and potent charm. The hair is used in stuffing pillows, cushions, &c. In fine, with the exception of the " in'arcfs," every part is used up. Elks can be very readily tamed and domesticated. According to Professor Nilsson, successful attempts have been made to bring up young' calves and tame them. At the Veterinary Institute in Stockholm a cross between a tame elk and a cow has been obtained. But, according to Wangenheim, similar attempts in Lithuania have proved to be failures. The experiments made there with rearing and taming elk partially succeeded ; for a time the animals thrived remarkably 150 SPOET IN NORWAY. well, and became extremely plump and fat ; but they never arrived at such a pitch of domestication as to be used as draught animals.* They all of them died, however, before completing the third year, of diarrhoea or dysentery. The average number of elks that are shot in Norway has been computed to amount to about 200 head per annum ; many, perhaps the greater part, unlawfully. And Mr. Asbjornsen considers that the total number of elk-deer in Norway may be put down at about 5000 head. The value of an elk-deer ranges from 20 to 30 dollars, or from £4 10s. to £6 15s., though they are often worth more. The flesh of a full-grown elk seldom weighs less than 40 bismer-pund, though they have been known to attain double this weight. Of late years the number of elk that have been shot unlawfully during the winter, both in Norway and Sweden, has attracted the attention of government; and I was informed that a bill would be laid before the Storthing which is at present sitting, t the object * An officer at Halifax, Nova Scotia, kept a young bull moose for a considerable time in the barrack-yard. Its great delight was to lie with its head on a soldier's lap, and have tobacco-smoke puffed up its nostrils ! It got its master into numberless scrapes by its love for cabbages. No paling was high enough to prevent its invading the neighbouring kitchen gardens. It died at last from an over-feed of turnips. I have been told that moose have been trained to draw in America. t March, 1863. THE ELK IN NORWAY. 151 of which is, as far as elk are concerned, to raise the penalty for shooting these animals at unlawful periods so considerably as to render it less easy for the poacher to escape with a mulct, which evidently did not meet the requirements of the case. Every true sportsman will, I think, feel interested in this matter, and will be glad to hear that these noble and majestic animals, the pride of Norway's forests, as the reindeer are the ornament of her mountain wilds, will be better protected against the attacks of the poacher. It has often occurred to me whether it might not be possible to introduce these animals into the extensive deer forests in many parts of Scotland. If the climate would suit them — and there is not such a wonderful difference after all — there can be little doubt, I think, that they would thrive, especially when it is borne in mind that the absence, of their great enemy, the wolf, would tell not a little in their favour. At all events, would it not be worth the trial ? I do not apprehend it would be a matter of great difficulty to procure a few calves, and if once got, the passage from Norway is a trifling consideration. It has long been my wish to see both the elk, the reindeer, and the hjerpe (Tetrao bonasia} introduced into Scotland ; and, at the risk of being considered presumptuous, I cannot but think it might answer. With reindeer it would probably be 152 SPORT IN NORWAY. more questionable ; but in my humble opinion I think both elk and hjerpe would thrive admirably in com- pany. Indeed, some twenty or thirty years ago, per- haps more, a herd of tame reindeer was sent over to Scotland. A Norwegian friend of mine told me he remembered seeing them being driven through the streets of Christiania previous to embarkation. The experiment did not succeed.* I have more than once alluded to the superstitions that are so prevalent amongst the Norwegian peasantry. In Mr. Asbjornsen's celebrated " Huldre Eventyr," a fair idea may be formed of the queer tales and odd things they believe in. I was asked by the talented author of this book to translate it into English, but a glance over its contents and style at once showed me that it was beyond my capabilities to render the slang expressions into anything like idiomatic English ; and at the same time to preserve the character of the work. And even by the very best translation possible, this * Lately, through the exertions of Professor Easch and of other gentlemen interested in the acclimatization of animals, &c., a few young chamois from the alps of Bavaria have been introduced into tho country. They are to be kept in an enclosed space for the first winter, and will be turned out in the neighbourhood of Gausta Fjeld, Thelemarken, next spring. This locality, which, though much colder than many other parts, yet being remote from the sea, the air from which is said to have an injurious effect upon these animals, has been selected as the scene of operations. I hear that they are doing well, and that there is every prospect of the ultimate success of the project. THE ELK IN NORWAY. 153 admirable sketch of peasant superstition would lose more than half its value. Countries abounding in immense forest tracts and lofty mountains, lakes, and cataracts, always have been a stronghold for superstitious beliefs. And this is doubly the case in a country like Norway, which is thinly populated, and where in the off-lying districts the means of communication are bad. Moreover, the long winter nights engender a love for story-telling; and added to this, that during some months of the year new faces are seldom seen, it is no wonder if the " traditions of the elders " are held in esteem. Further, in the valleys especially, the peasants are exclusive to a degree : they mix but little with the natives of other valleys ; and it is rare that a marriage takes place between a couple who have not been born and bred in the same neigh- bourhood. The consequence of these united circum- stances is, that the love of the marvellous is kept alive, and that tales and stories are handed do. wn from father to son as precious heirlooms for belief. Any one (could not Mr. Borrow try his hand?) who was sufficiently at home in the different dialects of the country, might make a most entertaining collection of tales and strange stories from the valleys of Norway. There is scarcely a lake, I may say, in Norway concerning which the peasant has not some strange tale to relate ; either that it is of unfathomable depth 152 SPORT IN NORWAY. more questionable ; but in my humble opinion I think both elk and hjerpe would thrive admirably in com- pany. Indeed, some twenty or thirty years ago, per- haps more, a herd of tame reindeer was sent over to Scotland. A Norwegian Mend of mine told me he remembered seeing them being driven through the streets of Christiania previous to embarkation. The experiment did not succeed.* I have more than once alluded to the superstitions that are so prevalent amongst the Norwegian peasantry. In Mr. Asbjornsen's celebrated " Huldre Eventyr," a fair idea may be formed of the queer tales and odd things they believe in. I was asked by the talented author of this book to translate it into English, but a glance over its contents and style at once showed me that it was beyond my capabilities to render the slang expressions into anything like idiomatic English ; and at the same time to preserve the character of the work. And even by the very best translation possible, this * Lately, through the exertions of Professor Easch and of other gentlemen interested in the acclimatization of animals, &c., a few young chamois from the alps of Bavaria have been introduced into the country. They are to be kept in an enclosed space for the first winter, and will be turned out in the neighbourhood of Gausta Fjeld, Thelemarken, next spring. This locality, which, though much colder than many other parts, yet being remote from the sea, the air from which is said to have an injurious effect upon these animals, has been selected as the scene of operations. I hear that they are doing well, and that there is every prospect of the ultimate success of the project. THE ELK IN NORWAY. 153 admirable sketch of peasant superstition would lose more than half its value. Countries abounding in immense forest tracts and lofty mountains, lakes, and cataracts, always have been a stronghold for superstitious beliefs. And this is doubly the case in a country like Norway, which is thinly populated, and where in the off-lying districts the means of communication are bad. Moreover, the long winter nights engender a love for story-telling; and added to this, that during some months of the year new faces are seldom seen, it is no wonder if the " traditions of the elders " are held in esteem. Further, in the valleys especially, the peasants are exclusive to a degree : they mix but little with the natives of other valleys ; and it is rare that a marriage takes place between a couple who have not been born and bred in the same neigh- bourhood. The consequence of these united circum- stances is, that the love of the marvellous is kept alive, and that tales and stories are handed dgwn from father to son as precious heirlooms for belief. Any one (could not Mr. Borrow try his hand ?) who was sufficiently at home in the different dialects of the country, might make a most entertaining collection of tales and strange stories from the valleys of Norway. There is scarcely a lake, I may say, in Norway concerning which the peasant has not some strange tale to relate ; either that it is of unfathomable depth 156 SPOKT IN NORWAY. see ; but on application found that, as it was not con- sidered worthy of a place amongst the archives, it had been destroyed. I would have given a great deal to have seen it, and have made a verbatim translation of it. From what I could ascertain as to the result — for I was at the lake in question last summer, and made a point of gathering what information I could — it ap- peared that some inquiry was made into the matter. I should think it more than probable that an elk may partly have been the cause of this too. Somebody very likely, as in the first story, had seen one swimming about, and had at once put it down for a monster ; while the remains of fish on the bank, probably the work of an otter, served to confirm the reports that had been spread of its devastations. While going up the Bandag's Vand on a steamer, the captain drew my attention to a narrow part of the lake, through which we were passing — perhaps eighty yards wide — which the peasantry firmly be- lieved to have been caused by a sea-serpent which, tired of remaining in the upper part of the lake, had forced its way through the narrow channel connecting them, and made it larger and deeper. THE GAME LAWS IN NORWAY. 157 THE GAME LAWS AT PRESENT IN VOGUE IN NORWAY. REINDEER HUNTING begins August 1st, and ends April 1st. Penalty for shooting one at other times, 10 dollars. ELK SHOOTING begins August 1st, and ends October 31st. Penalty, 60 dollars. Only one may be shot yearly on one pro- perty. RED DEEB. Same as elk. Two may be shot annually on the same property. Penalty, 30 dollars. HARES may be killed from August 15th to June 1st. Penalty, 2 dollars. GREY HENS AND FEMALE CAPERCALZIE may be shot or snared from August 15th to March 15th. BLACK COCK, MALE CAPERCALZIE, HJERPER, and EIDER DUCKS, from August 15th to June 1st. PARTRIDGES from Sept. 1st to Jan. 1st. The penalty in the above cases is 1 dollar. 158 SPORT IN NORWAY. CHAPTEE III. THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. FROM the casual remarks interspersed here and there in my description of each Amt, I am induced to think that I may have given too bright a colour to, and raised too high expectations of the general shooting to be had in Norway. I therefore hasten to soften it down a little, and to impart a more sober tone to the picture I have drawn. If a man be a true lover of nature, and a true sports- man into the bargain (and how often do the two go together !), the pleasure and gratification he will expe- rience from rambling through the wild and glorious scenery of " gamle Norge " will prove a compensation to any disappointment he may undergo in the matter of sport. If the free life, the grandeur of the forests, and the desolate, nay savage, wildness of the fjelds, the noble cascades, and, not the least, the pure atmosphere of the mountains, possess charms for him, I may say THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 159 the principal charms, so that whatever sport comes in his way is looked on as subordinate to the former, and will prevent him growling and grumbling when he returns to his night quarters, that " he has come all the way to Norway merely to shoot this wretched brace of ryper ;" or that " he has gone bear-slaving through the forest days together and seen nothing but a caper- calzie rising a hundred yards out of shot ;" then a visit to Norway will amply repay him, both as regards body and mind. But if, on the other hand, he expects to make a large bag of grouse, and will be disappointed if he cannot kill, at least, his twenty brace a day, and fall in with a bear or two, and kill sundry reindeer, and perhaps an elk, then by all means let him stay at home. Norway is essentially a country for sportsmen, and not at all a place for shooters. It is, indeed, a rare occurrence to be able to bag as much as fifteen brace a day ; and even that will require a great deal of very hard work. No doubt on some of the islands off the north-western coast large bags may be made, but I am now speaking of Norway Proper. A Norwegian friend of mine, and an excellent shot, told me that he did not know any place where " he could feel confident of killing ten brace in the day." The fact is, the shooting has considerably deterio- rated, principally because the introduction of railways and steam communication have rendered it a profitable 160 SPORT IN NOKWAY. employment to the Bonder to snare and trap the game for the markets; for it is seldom that they shoot them. In 1859, a friend of mine was shooting in the neigh- bourhood of Maristuen on the Fille Fjeld, than which no better grouse-ground can well be imagined, and though he had two good dogs with him, yet never a feather did he see. In the above remarks I am of course only alluding to the feathered game. As regards reindeer hunting, which is par excellence as far as shooting is con- cerned, tlie sport of the country, the matter is totally different. But even on this I would remark that whoever wishes to have good sport it must be made his whole and sole object ; everything else must give way to it, and the sportsman must not be led here and there by tempting offers of a bear, or an elk-deer, &c. And further, whether reindeer hunting will repay the time and labour devoted to it depends principally on a man's powers of endurance, physical and moral. And I would strenuously advise no one to set out on a reindeer expedition who cannot undergo a large amount of bodily fatigue, and endure a still larger amount of disappointment. Fortified, however, with strength of body and strength of mind, determined not to be put out of tune by poor accommodation, and still poorer fare, THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 161 he will, in all likelihood, be more than repaid for all the toil to which he has had to submit. To insure sport amongst the feathered tribes, it will, I think, be most desirable to engage the services of a regular hunter, or at least of one who is well ac- quainted with the ground, otherwise much valuable time will be thrown away. A good hunter will expect his dollar a day ; but in ordinary cases half of this sum ought to be sufficient. In my humble opinion, of all the feathered game of Norway, the HJEEPE (Tetrao lonasia, Gelinotte, Hasel-huhn) is the best for the table, and affords the worst sport. These birds are abundant in parts of Norway and Sweden. In size they are about as large as the French partridge, and resemble that bird much in the shape of the head and neck. Their meat also is white, as is the case with that bird. The plumage is speckled, grey and brown, and the male bird has a black patch on the throat. The legs are feathered. The Norwegians hold the hjerpe in great esteem as an article of food, prizing it before ryper, black game, or capercalzie ; and I have over and over again (in fact, it is a universal custom) seen woodcocks offered for sale in the market, with their bills cut short off, so as to palm them more readily off upon the uninitiated for this favourite bird. M 162 SPORT IN NOEWAY. Unlike the black game and capercalzie, hjerper are monogamous. They lay about the middle or end of June from six to eight eggs. Their food consists of the young shoots of spruce fir, seeds, &c. Indeed there appears to be a most intimate connection between their very existence and the appearance of this tree ; it being only in those districts where there are large forests of spruce fir that they are found in any quantity. i Thus, on the western coast south of Throndhjem, they are not to be met with, but in the neighbourhood of that city they are exceedingly plentiful ; and while this latter district abounds in forests of spruce fir the former parts are almost destitute of them. In Nord- land again, at least in its northern parts, they are not known ; and it is a significant fact that the limit of the spruce fir has been placed under lat. 67°. But in Osterdalen, Kendalen, Trysil, &c., they are nu- merous; and here there are more extensive forests of spruce fir than in any other parts of Norway. The peasants frequently shoot them by enticing them with a call made to imitate their peculiar cry. They go into a part of the forest where they are known to be, and can thus allure them into their neigh- bourhood very readily. By remaining perfectly still these birds will perch on the trees close by. But even then it is often a difficult matter to discover their AN hereabouts ; for they remain perfectly immovable, and THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 163 as the colour of their plumage bears a great resem- blance to the bark of the tree, it is only by scanning each bough in succession from one end to the other that they can be detected. A friend of mine has assured me that he has remained under a tree for a quarter of an hour in which he knew that a bird had perched, before he could distinguish it. They are generally to be found in the thickest and most retired glades in the forest, where they are but little exposed to disturbance ; for they appear to love quiet. If it were not for this propensity they would be exposed to countless enemies, as a more stupid bird, perhaps, does not exist. From the above description it may, I think, be inferred that hjerpe shooting does not offer great at- tractions. In fact I should pronounce it to be ex- tremely stupid and unprofitable work. That these birds would thrive admirably in some of the largest of our Scotch forests, or even in parks in England where they would not be exposed to disturbance, I fully believe, and in this opinion Professor Kasch confirms me. The great difficulty, however, seems to be to get them there. In the first place, it is no easy thing to procure the eggs, or, if procured, to hatch them. The above-named gentleman told me that, when a young man, he has repeatedly made the experiment, but never succeeded in bringing them up. 164 SPORT IN NORWAY. The only feasible plan, I think, is to trap them late in the autumn ; but as the Norwegian peasant has the most barbarous and primitive traps to be found any- where in the world, and thinks only of the market and the everlasting dollar, it is almost useless to rely on any assistance from that quarter. When in Norway I was authorized by the Acclimatization Society to offer a large sum per head for any specimens brought alive to me, and in good order ; but I never succeeded in my endeavours, though I used every means for making my wishes known. It is true one man near Dahl, about thirty miles from town, caught one ; but fearful lest it would fret itself to death, if kept even for a short time in solitary confinement, he wrung its neck. Imagine my disgust when I heard of it ! The certainty of a mark to the prospective contingency of a couple of dollars proved too strong an inducement to the Bonde's cal- culating mind. The CAPEKCALZIE (Tiur, Eoy) are generally plen- tiful in large forest districts. It is an interesting sight to watch the male bird (tiur) when he is paying his addresses to the female (roy). It occurs in the month of April. At about one A.M. the male birds begin to " spille," or " lege," as it is termed, literally "play." They perch usually on the branch of a Scotch fir tree, and commence making a peculiar noise with the beak, emitting three sounds in succession, like the knocking THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 165 together of two pieces of wood or bone, after which a hissing noise follows, caused by sucking in the breath, when the eyes are either closed or turned upwards like a person in a fit. Whilst this latter noise is going on the bird is, as it were, completely entranced, and totally insensible ; but when the knocking sound begins again, great caution must be used in approaching him, as he is then on the qui vive. The best plan is to watch for an opportunity to run in when the hissing is going on, and to stand stock still, or get behind a tree, if possible, as soon as this is over. By a careful observation of these rules they may be approached l at very close quarters, and thus an interesting phe- nomenon in natural history be witnessed. Unfortunately numbers of them fall victims at this season to the poacher, who, like his brethren in all other parts of the world, is well acquainted with the habits and customs of birds. Jt is even said that the hens, when they perceive any danger approaching, will keep flying round and round to try and warn the male bird ; and if that does not succeed, will even knock their entranced lord off his perch to bring him to a sense of the peril he is exposed to. The sounds emitted by the cock birds, as above described, are partly amatory, and partly serve as challenges to other males to the combat ; for like all 166 SPOUT IN NORWAY. others of the grouse tribe, the male capercalzie is extremely pugnacious. ' The best plan, perhaps, for securing sport either among these birds, hjerper, or black game, is the one adopted by the Bonder themselves. They use a little dog which ranges rather widely, and which commences to give tongue when on scent. The birds then invariably perch close by, and the dog remains barking at the foot of the tree in question till his master comes up. A small-bored rifle is generally used, though as regards the calibre the peasants are not particular ; for to get the bird is with them the main object. Shot guns, in fact, are but little known in the interior. The capercalzie are tiresome birds, because they run so prodigiously, and when they do rise it is generally out of shot. I would warrant them to spoil any dog, however steady, in a very short time. During the summer the tiur lives as an old bachelor, and will only be found in remote parts of the forest, high up towards the fjelds. The BLACK GAME (Urbane) are very numerous in parts of Norway, and as the reader must be perfectly familiar with their habits it would be superfluous to say much about them here. The cross between the black game and capercalzie is by no means uncommon. It takes place, probably, be- THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 167 tween the black cock and the roy. The characteristic marks of either species are readily distinguishable in the hybrid'. The GROUSE* (Skov-rype) is, according to Nor- wegian naturalists, the same bird as the red grouse of the British Isles, the difference of plumage being only occasioned by the climate. I believe that Mr. Gould entertains the same opinion, f Whether this circumstance is of itself sufficient to constitute a separate species, I do not feel competent to discuss ; but I believe that in the case of humming- birds, species are frequently distinguished with reference to the colour of the plumage only. The grouse in Norway commences to change colour in the spring, when the neck and half the breast assume a reddish hud. In winter the whole of the bird is white, and it may be remarked that the ' pinnae ' are always white. Low scrub on the mountain-sides is the usual sort of ground for finding them. On some of the islands off the north-western coast they are extremely abundant. As they are in every respect exactly similar to the red grouse, the colour of the plumage alone excepted, it is needless to speak further about them. I would, however, strongly recommend any one who takes * It may be remarked that wherever ryper have been mentioned in the above pages, this species has been intended. t I perceive, from a correspondent in the ' Field,' that the British grouse has been introduced into Sweden ; so that in lapse of time a solution of the question may be expected. 168 SPOET IN NORWAY. an interest in natural history to pay attention to the dif- ferent gradations and changes their plumage undergoes at various seasons of the year, as may be seen in the Zoological Museum at the University in Christiania. The migrations of the skov-rype from one part of the country to another are very remarkable; that is to say, where one year the sportsman may find an abundance of these birds, the next he may scarcely see a feather, and vice versa. As a case in point, a friend of mine in crossing the Vlo Fjeld in 1860 found the ryper very plentiful : in the autumn of the follow- ing year, happening to be in the same neighbourhood, he had every expectation of meeting with good sport ; but, after beating a very considerable extent of the fjeld carefully with his two dogs, he failed to discover a single bird. The same thing happened to him else- where ; and he tells me that some of his Anglo-Nor- wegian sporting friends have noticed the same to be the case in other parts of the country. The cross between the black game and the rype is rare, much rarer than that between the black game and capercalzie. This may probably be accounted for by the feet that the rype is for the most part monoga- mous, while the capercalzie and black game being both of them gregarious, there is more chance of their coming in contact with each other. The PTAKMIGAN (Fjeld-rype) is found on all the high fjelds of Norway. It changes colour exactly in the THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 169 same degree as is the case in Scotland. They are extremely plentiful in parts, and are often very tame ; but that they are capable of affording sport I disbelieve. A cross between this bird and the skov-rype has never been found in Norway. I can assign no other reason but that they occupy totally different terrains, the ptarmigan never, or rarely, descending into the regions of grouse. The PARTEIDGE (Agerhone, or Eaphons) has of late years been on the increase in the south and south- western parts of the country. In the neighbourhood of Christiania a few coveys may occasionally be seen, and- on the islands in the fjord I have frequently seen a fair sprinkling. I do not know how far north they are to be found. An English gentleman who resided at Hamar, on the Miosen, had a covey on his grounds two or three years back. I am not aware that the "red legs" exist in the country. A friend of mine writes me word that when at Fleermoen, a little above lat. 61°, on the borders. of Sweden, between the Klar and Dal rivers, he found a covey of partridges. " I stopped the night," he writes, " at Fleermoen in a house round which there was a ' clearing,' and, as usual, made in- quiries about the game in the neighbourhood, both large and small. They did not give me a very pro- mising account : but mentioned that a ' pair of birds,' they didn't know what they were, had come over from 170 SPORT IN NORWAY. Sweden the year before, and that now there was a flock of them near the house. I instantly started off to investigate the matter. My dogs very speedily got a point in the rye stubble, and up got a covey of eleven strong partridges. This was about the end of Sep- tember, 1859, and as I only killed two and a half brace, I hope if a second Englishman, and a second couple of English dogs, should ever make their way to Fleer- moen they will have the satisfaction of finding that the three remaining brace have meanwhile become the founders of a flourishing colony." During the last winter, however, several coveys have been seen in the neighbourhood of Throndhjem, a little above lat. 63°, and hopes are entertained that they will increase. The EIDER DUCK (Edder fugl), although not pro- perly classed among the feathered game of Norway, is yet, I think, worthy of a place in this chapter.* The principal breeding-places of the eider duck are the coasts of Greenland, Spitsbergen, Iceland, Norway, the Faroe Islands, and the Hebrides. They usually select small remote islands, called Aegge-Vser,t for their breeding-places. These Aegge-Vser very con- * The greater part of the following description has already appeared io "Chambers' Edinburgh Journal;" and as I was the author, I do not feel guilty of plagiarism in making use of it. t Vseer is a reef of rocks above water. THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 171 siderably enhance the value of the property to which they are attached. About the end of February or beginning of March, the birds repair to the open sea along the coast in large flocks. The male bird seldom pairs before the third year — some naturalists say not before the fifth — but the female obtains a mate when she is one year old. The call of the male with which he woos his mate is exceedingly melodious. Bloody and severe are the battles fought amongst the male birds at this season ; twenty may perhaps be seen all at once fighting desperately for the possession of one hen, who swims all the time quietly along behind the combatants, waiting till the contest has been decided, when the for- tunate bird immediately claims her as his prize. When once his superiority has been thus publicly asserted, he suffers no further molestation. This important business of finding a husband being at length satisfactorily settled, the female selects a convenient place in which to build her nest, choosing generally the protection of an overhanging rock, or the shelter of a juniper-bush, which latter shrub is found in great abundance. The nest is formed on the outside, of birch twigs, next to which comes a layer of moss or soft grass ; and the inside is lined with the down which she plucks from her breast, mixed with switch-grass. She lays generally from five to eight eggs, according to her age. She sits on them very assiduously, 'pluck- 172 SPORT IN NORWAY. ing from time to time fresh down from her breast, . which she heaps up so as to form a high embankment round them, and to hide her from view while on the nest. "When she leaves the nest in search of food, she covers up the eggs with the loose down, as the male bird takes no share in the process of incubation. If the nest be robbed of its eggs, she will, in common with other birds of the duck tribe, lay more; but supposing that the first five are taken, she will lay only three the next time; and if these be again re- moved, she will only lay one egg. A traveller in Ice- land says that he has been informed " that these birds lay quantities of eggs ; and that it is usual to stick a short piece of wood, of about a foot and a half long, through the nest, and that the duck will keep on laying till the top of the stick is hidden by the eggs ; and that then she mounts up on the top, and begins sitting." The author, however, seems inclined to doubt the veracity of this statement. It is usual amongst the Icelanders to take the down and the eggs twice, as a matter of course, before the bird is allowed to sit ; but after making her nest for the third time, she is so nearly bare, that the male bird has now to contribute towards the stock from his own breast. Should the nest be robbed again, they quit the place, and never return to it. The process of incubation takes from four to five weeks. Their food consists principally THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 173 of mussels, shrimps, slugs, and crabs. Pontoppi- dan asserts "that they are able to dive to a depth of ten to twelve fathoms." But while feeding, they are subject to great annoyance from the numerous tribes of gulls, which, not being able to dive, avail themselves of their labours, and the moment the duck reappears on the surface with a shrimp or slug in its mouth, pounce down, and carry it off. "While sitting, their great enemies are the crows and ravens, which some of the country people declare will pull the female off the nest to get at the eggs. Some of the principal Aegge-Vser along the Nor- wegian coast belong to the Lofoden group, and are also to be found in the Varanger Fjord, a little to the east of the North Cape. The last-mentioned places are the property of the Amtman of Finmark, who farms them out, receiving his rent in kind from the tenant — namely, five hundred pounds of half-cleaned down, and two barrels of cloud-berries (Rulus chamsemorus) . About twenty-five years ago, the produce from these Aegge-Vser was about two hundred pounds of clean down ; now it is little more than half that quantity, though every possible care and precaution is taken to protect the birds from injury. Not a gun is allowed to be fired off within three miles of the breeding-places, except once a year, when four reindeer out of a herd belonging to the British vice-consul at Hammerfest 174 SPORT IN NORWAY. and the proprietor are shot ; on which occasions, an experienced Lapp is brought off from the mainland, with whom to miss would be an indelible disgrace. Moreover, no one is allowed to land there without special leave from the proprietor. When the time approaches for the eggs to be hatched, people are kept on the watch ; for the down ought to be taken before twenty four hours have elapsed from the time when the young ones leave the shell, and should rain fall on it, it is spoiled. On an average, each nest yields about one ounce of cleaned down. As soon as all the down has been taken from the nests, the grass and dirt are carefully picked out with the hand ; but there are always so many broken pieces of birch twigs intermixed with it. that recourse is had to another expedient. The down is either spread out to the influence of the sun, the heat of which is great in those northern latitudes, or else slowly baked in ovens. The twigs thus become quite brittle. The down is next laid on smooth boards, and rolled with a heavy rolling-pin, which treatment effectually breaks up the brittle wood, and reduces it to dust It is next placed on a frame in shape some- thing resembling a French bedstead, across the bottom of which are arranged laterally pieces of packthread, at intervals of about one-quarter of an inch, and is stirred quickly backwards and forwards with two light THE FEATHEKED GAME OF NORWAY. 175 wooden wands. The dust and dirt thus fall through on to a board which is placed underneath, and the process is repeated until no more is found to come away. The down is now ready for use, and is stored up in bags for exportation or sale. The whole process is very tedious ; and is the more felt to be so, as in the short northern summer there are so many other neces- sary things to be attended to. The unclean down will not yield quite one-sixth clean, the value of which will be about twelve shillings on the spot. Owing, however, to the alarming diminu- tion in the numbers of the birds, no dependence can be placed on obtaining any considerable quantity. Formerly, a large quantity of eider-down used to be imported from Spitzbergen and Eussia, but mostly of an inferior quality. To an inexperienced eye, it may be difficult to distinguish between the live and dead down ; but there are one or two characteristic marks which infallibly test the quality of the article : not only is the live down much the lighter and more elastic of the two, but if a handful of it be thrown up into the air, even when a tolerably fresh breeze is blowing, it will adhere together in a compact mass, and not a particle of it be lost, whilst the other will be scattered in all directions, like so much thistle-seed ; or if it be placed before a fire, it will be seen to rise and expand in bulk 176 SPORT IN NORWAY. very rapidly, which is not the case with the other. The quantity of live down requisite for an average- sized quilt is from two and a half to three pounds, which may with ease be so compressed as to be con- tained in a common-sized hat. If more be used, the object is defeated, as the down then becomes lumpy, and collects in the middle. Twenty-five years ago, it was no uncommon thing for small vessels to bring from five thousand to six thousand pounds of eider- down from Spitzbergen to Hammerfest, in Lapland, chiefly, it is true, of an inferior quality, and that by no means improved by lying in the hold for a month or six weeks. During the latter part of the last century, Iceland alone used to export to Denmark from two hundred to three hundred pounds of cleaned down, and from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand pounds uncleaned. The birds have, however, been exposed to such unfair treat- ment in that island, spite of the laudable endeavours that many individuals have made to propagate the species, and the protective measures adopted by the Danish government, that they, have very considerably decreased in numbers ; for not only have the nests been robbed of their eggs and down two or three times during the hatching season, but the birds themselves have been shot in a merciless manner, as well for the sake of their feathers as for the flesh. For instance, if THE FEATHERED GAME OF NOKWAY. 177 A. sees a duck, he shoots it, on the principle that B. should not get it ; B. acts from similar motives with regard to C. ; and so on till it comes to Z.'s turn, who does just the same as the others, for fear A. should return ; and as the eider-duck is the easiest of all ducks to kill during the breeding-time — when they will, in fact, sit so close that they may he knocked on the head with a stick — it is not much to he wondered at that they have diminished very seriously on this island. In Norway, however, they have been jealously preserved ; and not only has the Storthing recently passed a law rendering every one who shoots one of these birds, or robs a nest, amenable to a fine, but they are especial favourites with the peasants : indeed, along the whole coast of Norway, where they annually resort in great numbers, they are held as dear by the natives as the robin-redbreast is with us ; and this principle proves a far more efficient means of protection than any fine or penalty. Gene- rally speaking, they build their nests on the small islands with which the whole Norwegian coast is so plentifully sprinkled ; but very frequently they will repair to the mainland, building close to the farmhouses and fishermen's cottages, even under the very doorsteps, as if they knew that they were among friends. In such cases, they become as tame as farmyard ducks, suffering the goodwife to lift them off the nest, and receiving food at her hand. And yet, notwithstanding N 178 SPORT IN NORWAY. all the care that has been taken of them, they have greatly diminished, and it is to be feared still continue to do so every year. As above stated, a very large quantity of down used to be exported from Iceland, but entirely for the Danish market. In the year 1750, the company in that island sold as large a quantity as amounted to 3745 banco dollars. The relative value of clean and uncleaned down in those days may be ascertained from, the following computation, that the former was valued at forty-five fish per one pound, and the latter at six- een fish per one pound. The earliest mention that I can find of eider-down in any English writings occurs in " The Description of Europe, and the Voyages of Othere and Wulfetan," by Alfred the Great. Otherus, who was a Norwegian nobleman, speaking of the Finns and Biarmians, says that the revenues of the nobles "chiefly consisted in skins of animals, down, and whalebone," and that " some of the richest proprietors had to pay as much as forty bushels of down." The use of eider-down was believed, in the early part of the last century, to be excessively injurious to the health, producing epileptic seizures ; which opinion is refuted by Bartholin, a Danish writer on medicine, who says : " Neither ought that idle report to frighten us, that epilepsy is brought' on by the use of these THE FEATHERED GAME OF NORWAY. 179 feathers. No one that I have ever met with or heard of has ever incurred any risk thereby." — Vide 'In Med. Danorum Domestica,' p. 66. Still, all those who have travelled on the Continent know the oppressive- ness which is caused by having to sleep with a feather bed thrown over one — a practice which cannot be con- ducive to health. 180 SPORT IN NORWAY. CHAPTER IV. BEAR AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. — REMARKS ON BIRDS OF PREY. ENGLISH bear-hunters in Norway may be declined like adjective pronouns, i. e., divided into three degrees — the positively unfortunate, the comparatively lucky, and the superlatively successful. The first are those who have toiled and moiled at " bear-slaving," without ever catching even so much as a glimpse of his shaggy highness; the second those who have been fortunate enough either just to have seen him, or to have missed doing so by an in- appreciable punctum temporis ; and the third, those who have actually shot a bear, and perhaps brought home with them a pot of the genuine grease as a trophy, which in all probability proved so unpleasant to the olfactory nerves as to have been thrown away from not having been properly prepared. That there are a good many bears in Norway, the remarks interspersed above, and the returns which have BEAE AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. 181 been extracted from official sources (a copy of which, for the last fifteen years, is subjoined), will prove beyond a doubt. And the only reason, and I think it is the true one, that I can assign for so much disappointment having been experienced, is simply owing to the fact that "would-be bear-hunters" do not come out early enough to Norway, or devote enough time to it. That by far the greater number of bears are killed either in the winter, or early spring, I am fully convinced from the experiences of old hunters ; and the way it is managed is as follows : — The peasants track them to their caves (hie) in the beginning of the winter, and either shoot them as they are lying asleep, looking for all the world like babies, with their fore-paw in their mouth ; or if that be impracticable, get a comrade to stir Bruin up with a long pple, and shoot him as he attempts to bolt. But to be able to do this it is necessary to be expert in the use of the skie, or snow-shoe — an accomplishment not so readily learjit. For the spring shooting a different method is adopted. During the whiter the Bonder put out the carcase of a horse or cow in the neighbourhood of a bear's whiter quarters, piling up heavy stones upon it. About the middle of April, when Bruin wakes up from his long sleep, the hunter frequently visits it ; and as soon as ever he perceives that a bear has been attracted to it, he watches it carefully day and night, and seldom fails 182 SPORT IN NORWAY. in making a bag. In bear districts most of the Bonder employ a hunter in their service, who gets a certain payment from them, together with the government reward. It is toilsome and severe work; for it not only necessitates being early up in the country when it is still bitterly cold, but the fatigue that must necessarily be undergone, added to the wretched accommodation and poor fare to be met with in outlying districts, renders it a question whether the contingency of a bear will repay the trouble. On the other hand, it is more than probable that an ardent sportsman, capable of undergoing all the above disagreeables, would attain the object of his desires. And perhaps his best plan would be to make the acquaintance of some Bonde in the summer, and make arrangements beforehand with him to lay out Odde, i.e., the carcase above spoken of, and then come out at the preconcerted time. There is no doubt but that bears are shot in the summer, but it is only occasionally, I am inclined to think; and, at all events, the Englishman's chance of sport among them at this season is infinitely more remote. Still, if a man is capable of undergoing a great deal of hard work, and can digest an enormous amount of disappointment and vexation of spirit, giving himself entirely up to this one absorbing object, he may possibly (if he is fortunate enough to secure the BEAR AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. 183 services of an honest and clever hunter, and his bear- dog, why then he may), by great good luck, get a sight, at least, of a bear. I say an "honest" hunter, because there are many who, knowing the bear-loving propensities of " those mad English," profess to be able to find a bear for you on the shortest notice, without the slightest positive knowledge of their whereabouts. A stranger, therefore, who has had no previous ac- quaintance with the country and the habits of the peasants, stands an extremely good chance of being egregiously taken in, and of passing an uncommonly unprofitable summer. To any one whose main object it is to kill a bear, the early spring is unquestionably the best time ; but, then, as a friend has very justly asked me, " Would there be full satisfaction in the prize, lean and ragged as he then would be ?" I heard last year in Norway an amusing account of a bear-hunter, or rather two bear-hunters; and as it happens to be a true one I will give it. Two men, who knew nothing at all about hunting or shooting, managed to find out a hie. Feeling diffident of their own success they imparted the secret to a regular hunter, but cautiously kept the whereabouts of the cave dark till they had struck a bargain. They offered the man five dollars as his share if he would kill the beast for them. Now, as a bear's skin is 184 SPOET IN NORWAY. worth, if it be a good one, fourteen dolkrs in the market, and the government gives a reward of five dollars for every bear killed, and the flesh is worth twopence per pound, it was plain to the calculating "jaeger" that he ought to have more, and therefore refused to do the job for them on these conditions. They refused, however, to listen to his demands for an advance ; and fearing lest he should by chance find out the " hie " for himself, determined to attack the bear without him. Fortified, therefore, with an extra allowance of " Throndhjemske " (aquavit), and equipped with a couple of axes and a long stick, they sallied forth. Arriving at the place, it was arranged that one should do the "drawing out" part of the business, while the other should stand by with uplifted hatchet to test the toughness of Bruin's skull when he should "put out" an appearance. The pole was accordingly inserted and " braddled " about ; presently a low growl was heard, and at last out came the brute's head. The party with the pole, however, no sooner had the bear's head shown itself, cut off as hard as his legs could carry him. His companion, more courageous, now brought down his axe with all his force right on the bear's skull Some- what stunned at this unexpected reception, Bruin dropped down in his hole, but recovering after a short time again attempted to get out and see what it was all about. Again did the axe come down with more BEAR AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. 185 vigour than ever on his devoted head, and again Bruin disappeared to prepare for round number three. And so it went on for some time, till at last the man and the axe got the day, and Bruin lay dead at his feet. The above story was told me in Norwegian, and loses not a little by being translated. In the month of February, this year, 1863, an old she-bear and two cubs were shot in Ostre Slidre, in Valders, in the following way :— Three men one da/ found a " hie," and one stuck a pole down it to see if Bruin were at home. He had not done so long ere he "got a bite," and called to his comrades to aim in the direction of the pole. They accordingly put the muzzles of their rifles as far in as they could in the required direction and fired. Supposing the bear must have got his "quietus," he now commenced crawling V into the " hie " to see the result, but had not got far before the bear bolted right over him and escaped. She was killed, however, the following day, and it was found that her jaw had been already broken. The two cubs were lying quite dead at the bottom of the " hie." Lucky was it for them that the old bear made off, as their guns being unloaded they would probably have come off worst had she attacked them. In the middle of March, this year, a man discovered a bear " hie " in a hay barn. In company with two others he had gone to fetch a load of hay home, when 186 SPORT IN NORWAY. all at once he found himself attacked by a huge bear. They, however, gave Bruin such a drubbing between them with stout poles that he was glad to run off. On searching the barn they found a " hie " and two cubs, one of which they secured. The other got off It was about as big as a yearling calf. I think the best time, altogether, for hunting is the early autumn, though at the same time the chance of making a bag is not, as I have said, so great then as in the spring. At this season, when the berries are ripe, Bruin, who is uncommonly fond of fruit, and will devour and spoil large quantities, may not unfrequently be met with out in the open. " Or again, later on," my friend informs me, " when the snow begins to fall, and when the bears are thinking of retiring to their winter quarters. I did once make an expedition of some days in the snow in a part of the country where the bears had been committing considerable damage ; but un- luckily it was just too late — (what a common complaint this is among bear-hunters !) — they had ' put up ' for the winter, and a heavy fall of snow had obliterated the tracks. In the course of my numerous expeditions in summer-time after bears in Hardanger, Nordland, and in other parts of the country, I have very frequently come upon and followed fresh tracks for very long distances ; but I could plainly see that, owing to the density of the forests, the chances were at least 100 to 1 BEAR AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. 187 against me. At times, indeed, in the Hardanger mountains I have found fresh tracks on the open fjeld in June and July, and no doubt hears are seen occa- sionally during the summer. Still, as a rule, they generally keep to the thick forest at that time of the year ; and, as I have said, the chances are enormously large against one's getting even a glimpse of them. No doubt, on the other hand, a good bear-dog would diminish these chances ; but these are not so often to be found when wanted." A large proportion of bears are annually killed by a sort of " infernal machine," i. e., a trap formed by several gun barrels pointed towards the carcase of a cow, and so arranged that they will all go off when a wire is touched. A gentleman whom I know very nearly met with the fate intended for the bear he was in pursuit of, from one of these machines. It seems that, according to law, no trap can be set until public notice thereof has previously been given at the parish church. But un- luckily on this occasion his guide had not been suffi- ciently attentive to his religious duties, and therefore knew nothing about it. I am not aware whether the Swedes adopt a plan for trapping bears which is very common in North America. " Several trunks of trees are tied together (and made heavier by stones being laid on them), and set in a slanting position, so that when the bear pulls 188 SPORT IN NORWAY. at the bait underneath the whole concern immediately falls and squashes him. The bait is usually a large piece of fish tied up in paper, and when it gets ' high,' if there be a bear within reach of the savour thereof, he is sure to come to it." For bear-hunting generally, I think a double-barrelled smooth bore, carrying a large bullet, would be best. Added to this, a revolver and a "couteau de chasse" should be taken. It would be foolhardy to depend upon a single barrel alone, or to go on a bear expedition without an experienced hunter ; for it is seldom that Bruin is so disabled at the first shot as to prevent his rushing in, which he will be pretty sure to do. Many of the Norwegian bear-hunters have at times got fearfully mauled. As a rule, a bear will not attack a person unless wounded or provoked, though instances have occurred where he has been the aggressor. One of these occurred a few years ago in Hardanger, where a bear, without provocation, attacked four people who were quietly at work, and severally injured them. Two of them, a man and a woman, subsequently died from the injuries they received. I would strongly recommend any one " going in " regularly for bear-hunting to provide himself with a small tent. Edgington's patrol tents are well suited for this work. Thus the hunter can shift his quarters BEAR AND LYNX HUNTING, ETC. 189 -T-HIM • CO i-H (NrHi-HCqtMrH S rH rH O5 l> « SSI CO CO i-H (N CO 05 .OCOr-KN • 00 CO "O O fH CO rH 0 rn CO CO (M 00 CO rH (M CO CO • rHrH rHlOC^rH rHNOCO CO^ £0^-0 0^00000 ^ _ — — (NCO