wv 1,7 ww GU < > N - ul WISCONSIN Horticultural Socegy BULLETIN NO. 3 at Published by authority of the Executive Committee bate tt ~ Spring Flowering Bulbs MADISON, WIS., OCTOBER, 1904? 42> The Bulletins and Annual Reports of this Society are sent free to members of the Society Monograph ee : pow) Wisconsin State Horticultural Society OFFICERS. TM SSH. ALOOD Gs AETEST Mem te sae ers aco ensue ay ereaieescnt Hureka Geo ewelloge- VACesEresidiemtacersacs cle cee oe arene Lake Mills EB. Granefield:, “Secretarya- nis os cesses e ae eee semen Madison LG Kiellose. chr easunerosnc credo stele. « tuebeis cue batamebenere rs Ripon WA. Loole: Cor) Secretany nites hs BUSSEY <<. cna meet Cee eiewieueenenere Omro Sth Distecairv ine a Smiths ce. ecriacra erie ie iter oren: Green Bay IOP DM Stee ep bye LORSUW ANGE ts cnc aon tonunadaudod so Db GOK Wausau lithaDist= sees ChardsSone me sre. teeters ... Chippewa Falls The Bulletins of the Society are sent free to members. Persons not members may obtain copies until the editions are exhasted on application to the Secretary. vp) hav if 32 Spring Flowering Bulbs Kr. CRANEFIELD. The spring-flowering bulbs are a joy and a blessing. Flower beds and borders that would otherwise be bare and unsightly in the spring may, if filled with tulips, be a blaze of color for weeks. These with -crocus, narcissus and others of the Holland bulbs, will give an abun- dance of bloom before the annuals and the summer flowering plants may be safely planted. In order to have this it is necessary to plant in the fall. October is the month of preparation for this brilliant spring show. But the planting may be done any time before the ground freezes. Crocus, tulips and similar bulbs are grown in Holland and are sent to us in late summer or early autumn and may then be had from flor- ists or seedsmen dry and dormant. The bulbs have in their thickened leaves a storehouse of food surrounding the perfectly formed embryo blossoms. We need only to plant them in rich well drained soil any time before the ground is frozen and cover with a mulch of heavy leaves. However, in order to meet with full success we must observe eertain practical considerations. Preparation of Soil The beds where summer flowers have been growing should now be eleared of rubbish, the soil deeply spaded and well pulverized. Deep tillage is essential, as the roots of bulbous plants strike straight downward, branching but little. Drainage The soil must be light in texture and well-drained, as the bulbs will decay if water settles about them. If the soil is a heavy clay it will be well to raise the beds a few inches to insure perfect drainage. Manure It is not essential that the soil should be very rich. It is more important tnat it be light and porous. Use only thoroughly decayed manure. Fresh manure will cause the bulbs to decay. - Planting Tulips, ete., are usually planted in “designs” or masses of contrast- ing colors. As the bulbs of the different varieties are all much alike in appearance great care is necessary in handling to avoid mixing. 3 After the beds are prepared for planting and the design outlined the bulbs may all be set on the surface of the bed, placing all of one kind before commencing with another. Make the holes for planting with the fingers. Cover lightly and after planting compact firmly the whole surface of the bed by walking over it. Do not push the bulbs into the soil without first making holes, for this leaves them on a bed of hard soil and the straight down- ward growing roots will tend to push the bulbs to the surface. Winter Protection The bulbs here recommended for planting are all hardy in the sense of power to withstand cold, but all require a winter mulch to prevent alternate freezing and thawing. This is best put on after the ground is frozen and may consist of 3 to 6 inches of leaves or strawy manure. kield mice are very fond of bulbs and are apt to harbor in the mulching if it is put on before heavy frosts. Spring Treatment Uncover early in the spring as soon as their first leaf buds appear. Do not fear late spring frosts, as tulips, ete., suffer but little or not at all from freezing if the growth is made in the open. There is greater danger of injury by frost to: the spindling growth resulting from de- layed removal of the mulch. Summer Treatment After flowering the tops turn yellow and die and the bulbs may be allowed to remain in the ground: for a second and even a third year. Annuals and bedding plants may be planted without disturbing the bulbs. In case it is desired to remove them immediately after flower- ing dig carefully and ‘“heel-in” or transplant closely in rows in the garden and leave until the tops die; then lift the bulbs, dry a day or two in the sun and store in a dry place until fall. Kinds to Plant TULIPS There are several classes (trade lists) of tulips, but the single early sorts are most satisfactory for outdoor culture. The following kinds are of like period of flowering and of the same height, two im- portant features in large beds: Red—Crimson King, Artus, Belle Alliance. Yellow—Chrysola, Yellow Prince. White—Pottebakker, Cottage Maid, La Reine. Variegated—Keiserskroon. The Duc Van Thol class is somewhat earlier than the above, but with smaller flowers. These may be had in scarlet, rose, yellow, white and crimson. The Parrot tulips have curiously shaped blossoms with fringed petals. These are odd but not adapted to massing. The Darwin, Bybloems and Bizarres are single late kinds, growing 2 to 3 feet in height. More prized for cut flowers than for bedding. Very late and cannot be used where the beds are wanted for summer flowers. All so far named are single. Double flowered sorts may be had in all the shades of red as well as yellow, white and variegated. Plant tulip bulbs 3 to 5 inches deep (bottom of the bulb) and 4 to 6 inches apart. Narcissus Of the different classes of narcissus the daffodil or trumpet nar- cissus is most satisfactory for out-door planting. The Trumpet Major, single, and Von Sion, double, are two satisfactory kinds; both rich golden yellow. The Pheasant’s Eye, white with yellow center, is also hardy. The Polyanth class, of which Paper White is a representative, is not hardy out-doors in Wisconsin. Hyacinths Hyacinths are much admired on account of their delicate colors and delightful fragrance. The single sorts are to be preferred for bedding, as the flower spikes are the more eraceful and not as likely to droop as the heavier double ones. Various shades’ of blue, red and yellow may be selected from the lists of dealers. The following are -good: Robert Steiger, Grand Vainquer, Voltaire, Chas. Dickens and Czar Peter. Hyacinths will not thrive in wet, heavy soil. Light, sandy loam is best. The bed should be spaded to a depth of 18 inches or more and thoroughly pulverized. Plant 6 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. Crocus The crocus is the earliest of the spring flowering bulbs to blossom and if planted in borders or grass plots may remain for years undis- turbed. Plant 2 to 3 inches deep. The plants require but little room and o 3 inches apart if desired. 77 ay hae aw 2) The kinds here mentioned are the ones commonly planted in beds and borders. A few others, as the Snowdrop, Scilla, etc., may be added if one desires a collection. may be set 2 t 5 Plant A Few of each and brighten the home in the early spring. But little room is required and the culture is simple. Children love flowers. Let them make a tiny bulb garden. They may plant with their own hands, cover them for their long winter sleep and watch day by day in the spring the opening buds. This will be “Nature Study” at its best. Teachers often plan and plant flower gardens on the school grounds only to leave them at the beginning of their beauty as school closes.