I-NRLF B M 313 SPRING FLOWER5 AT BELVOIR CASTLE RARY ERSITY OF L1FORNIA The Gift of Beatrix Farrand to the General Library University of California, Berkeley REEF POINT GARDENS LIBRARY REEF POINT GARDENS LIBRARY PLATE I. BELVOIR CASTLE-FROM THE DUKE'S WALK. SPRING FLOWERS AT BELVOIR CASTLE With directions for cultivation and notes on the gardens by W. H. DIVERS it Head Gardener to His Grace The Duke of Rutland LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. 39, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON NEW YORK, CALCUTTA AND BOMBAY 1909. illustrations are from photographs taken by the author. LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE Farrand GiTE GUJL INTRODUCTION. large number of enquiries I have received con- cerning the cultivation of the various plants used in Spring {Bedding here, have induced me to write the following pages, in the hope that many others will be led to cultivate these interesting and beautiful plants exten- sively, and thus make their gardens more beautiful in the early months of the year, ^hese hardy plants appeal to a large number of persons, not only by their beauty when seen in a mass, but also because they are not in any way* expensive to cultivate. *Uhey may bz increased easily into hundreds and thousands, with very little cost for labour in growing them during the summer months, and for transplanting in the autumn ; thus they are adapted for everyone who has a garden, and I unhesitatingly affirm they will give infinite pleasure to anyone who cultivates them in the manner I have described in this book- For some of the information about the building and the early history of the family, I am indebted to the T^etf. Irvin Ellers* "History of tBelvoir," and to my friend the late W. A. Carrington, who had charge of the large collection of ancient manuscripts here for many years, and Was a well-known authority on these subjects. 818 LIST OF PLATES. Belvoir Castle, from the Duke's Walk Double Arabis and Tulips... Double Daisies as an edging White Polyanthus and Tulips Violas and Tulips ... Spring Flowers in the Castle Garden Dark Wallflowers and Tulip Retroflexa Aubrietias as a groundwork for Tulips Variegated Crown Imperials Phlox Divaricata and Polyanthus Viola, Belvoir Castle White Tulips at the Kitchen Garden View in the Duchess' Garden Spring Flowers in the Duchess' Garden Flower Beds in the Duchess' Garden Archway, formerly in the Duchess' Garden The Lake, from Woolsthorpe Viburnum Plicatum Part of the Castle Flower Garden Ditto ditto Raised Beds in the Castle Flower Garden Statue of Winter The Statuary Garden Part of ditto ... Old Barracks, now used as Stables ... Magnolias on the Terrace Wall The Terrace Flower Garden The Dairy Avenue East Entrance to the Kitchen Garden The Kitchen Garden The Herbaceous Flower Garden A Wintry Scene, April 25th, 1908 ... No. I II III IV V VI ... VII ... VIII IX X XI ... XII ... XIII ... XIV ... XV ... XVI ... XVII ... XVIII ... XIX ... XX ... XXI ... XXII ... XXIII ... XXIV ... XXV ... XXVI XXVII XXVIII ... XXIX ... XXX ... XXXI XXXII CHAPTER I. SPRING BEDDING. This has been a feature of Belvoir Gardens for many years ; it was carried out here by the late Mr. W. Ingram when only very few gardeners in the kingdom attempted any- thing of the kind ; the late Mr. Fleming of Cliveden was another gardener who devoted much thought to the system, he raised several varieties of flowers which were indispensable at the time, one of which — Viola Cliveden Purple — is the best of its colour even now, and is grown here largely at the present time. Previously, flower beds were for the most part bare of plants in the winter time, or were in some instances covered with broken bricks, broken coals, and small white stones. Spring bedding is a great improvement on this system as the beds are covered with plants again as soon as the summer occupants are removed, and thus present a green appearance all the winter, with the addition of a number of flowers on many of the plants, whenever the weather is not frosty. Some of the plants employed are at their maximum of beauty in mild winters during January and February, but the fullest display is obtained here during the last two weeks of April and the first two weeks of May. There are many 6 useful spring flowering plants which do not lend themselves readily to this system of spring bedding, chiefly owing to the bulbous or tuberous nature of their roots, and the fact of starting into growth too early in the autumn to allow planting in the beds after the summer plants are removed ; these include Crocus imperati and Anemone fulgens with many others, and as any book on spring flowers would be incomplete if it did not mention them, I propose to treat of them in a separate chapter. As will be seen by the notes on the general character of these gardens — see page 66 — they are eminently fitted for producing early flowers, their height above the surrounding country gives a drier air during winter and spring ; early frosts in autumn and late frosts in spring are not felt severely, owing to the elevation ; the screens of tall forest trees with ever- greens underneath which surround the gardens break the keen cutting winds of March (these are often more dangerous to vegetation than a quiet frost of much greater intensity), and the undulations of the surface give a greater charm, and far greater effect from a picturesque point of view than could possibly be obtained on any level surface. It is impossible to make a garden artificially which would give such a wide range of elevation and surface as is obtained here, but very much may be accomplished by judicious excavating, combined with plantations of quick growing trees ; the latter soon give quite a large amount of shelter if skilfully planted and also break up the ground into irregular shaped portions, which eventually become separate gardens, and thus secure one of the greatest charms a garden can possess — a 7 constant change of scene and vegetation. A good proportion of flowering shrubs should always be included whenever a garden is first planted ; no shrubs we possess repay the planter so well as Rhododendrons and Hardy Azaleas, both contain- ing such a wide range of form and colour. Unfortunately many places are not naturally suitable for them, owing to the presence of lime in the soil ; it is sometimes possible to over- come this difficulty by artificial means ; but there are many others which are not so particular about soil, these include Ribes in various colours, Tree Paeonies, Viburnum opulus, V. tinus lucidum, Prunus triloba, P. sinensis, Amygdalus nanus, Amelanchier Canadensis, Berberis Darwinii, B. stenophylla, B. Japonica, Cerasus pseudo cerasus, Coronilla emerus, Cytissus albus, C. Andreanus, C. praecox, Daphne mezereum, Deutzia crenata, D. gracilis, Diervilla rosea, D. Eva Rathke, Forsythia suspensa, F. viridissima, Genista hispanica, Halesia tetraptera, Kerria Japonica, Magnolia conspicua Soulangeana, M . stellata, Philadelphus grandiflorus, P. Gordonianus, P. Lewisii, Pyrus florabunda, P. Japonica, P. Mauleii, Robinia hispida, Syringa persica, S. vulgaris, Wistaria sinensis. Shrubs and trees with coloured foliage are also most valu- able ; one of the finest effects obtained in Spring is found in the variety of tint in the new born leaves. Some of the most useful plants for this purpose are Acer palmatum septemlobum, A. p. atropurpureum, Cornus mas variegata, C. Spathii, Diervilla grandiflora variegata, Eucalyptus coccifera, Prunus divaricata atropurpurea, syn P. Pissardii, Acer negundo variegata, Corylus avellana purpurea, Cupressus Lawsonii lutea, Ulmus Rosseelsii, U. plumosa aurea. A list of plants Aubrietia graeca, blue , ,, Leichtlinii, crimson ,> ,, Variegata Dr. Mules, purple ,, Hendersonii, purple ,, Moerheimii, pink Fire King, dark crimson Arabis albida ,, alpina fl. pi. Alyssum saxatile Auricula, alpine varieties Carex riparia variegata Crown Imperial, variegated foliage Daisy, Alice, pink „ double pink „ red ,, ,, white Doronicum Austriacum „ excelsum Erysimum compactum Festuca glauca Golden Feather (Pyrethrum) Heath (Erica carnea) Helleborus foetidus Hemerocallis fulva variegata Heuchera hispida (syn H. Richardsonii) Holcus mollis variegata Honesty, variegated foliage Dampierii, and Retinospora used for the beds : Iris, foetidissima variegata „ pallida variegata Luzula campestris Myosotis dissitiflora ., ,, alba Dyerae ,, alpestris Qyeen Victoria „ Royal Blue Onopordon acanthium Phalaris arundinacea variegata elegans Phlox divaricata „ Newry seedling „ subulata Brightness ,, ,, Nelsonii Sprite Vivid Polyanthus, Veitch's Yellow „ White ,, coloured Harbinger Primrose, Wilson's Blue Saxifraga Camposii ,, cordifolia purpurea moschata Guildford Seedling ,, ,, atropurpurea rhei „ ligulata purpurascens Scrophularia scorodonia variegata Stock, Empress Elizabeth Symphytum officinale variegata Viola Admiration, purple ,, Belvoir Castle, white „ Blue King, blue and white ., Broom of Cowdenknowes sulphur ,, Bullion, yellow ,, Canary, yellow ,, Cliveden Purple, purple ,, Countess of Kintore, purple and white ,, Fire Dragon, brown and yellow ,, Lord Elcho, yellow ,, Meteor, brown Bulbs used for beds : Hyacinth, La Grandesse, white ,, Gigantea, pink ,, La Perouse, blue ,, Robert Steiger. red Scilla Siberica Tulip Acuminata, red and yellow ,, Buonoventura, scarlet flaked with gold, late ,, Chrysolora, yellow ,, Coleur Cardinal, red „ Coleur Ponceau, crimson and white ,, Cerise Gris de Lin, pink and white ,, Columbus, red and yellow, late „ Cottage Maid, pink and white ,, Clara Butt, pink, late „ Duchesse de Parma, orange and brown ,, Elegans red ,, Fairy Queen, heliotrope and yellow, late „ Glow, red, late ,, Gesneriana rosea, rosy red, late Viola, Robinson's Standard, purple ,, Skylark, blue and white ,, Woodlark, white Violet, double, Lady Hume Campbell ,, single, Russian ,, Princess of Wales Waldsteinia trifolia Wallflower, Belvoir Castle Yellow ,, Earliest of all Dark Red ,, Double German „ Phoenix ,, Ruby Gem ,, Salmon Queen 10 Tulip Gesneriana, spathulata, dark red, late ,, Golden Crown, orange, late „ Isabella, pink and white, late „ Keizers Kroon, red and yellow „ Le Merveille, salmon, late „ La Panache, striped red and white, late ,, Loveliness, rose, late „ Margaret, blush and rose, late ,, Mr. Farncombe Saunders, dark red, late ,, Phyllis, white and pale lilac, late ,, Picotee, pink and white, late „ Pride of Austria, salmon red „ Proserpine, pink, tall ,, Purple Crown, purple, variegated foliage „ Retroflexa, yellow, late ,. Royal Standard, striped red and white ,, Sir T. Lipton, red, late „ Stanley, rose „ Summer Beauty, pink and white, late „ Vermilion Brilliant, red „ Vitellina, lemon, late „ White Swan, white „ Wouverman Double Tulip Le Candeur, white, late „ Murillo, white fading to pink, late Tournesol, yellow and red The preceding list contains all the plants and bulbs used here of late years. It would be an easy matter to extend the lists of Hyacinths and Tulips considerably, many other varieties of botb have been tried here and have been discarded owing to some peculiarity which caused them to prove unsuit- able for our purpose. Crocuses might be used in many It gardens but cannot be used here as the pheasants are so fond of the roots, rats and mice also are very destructive to them ; where they can be grown they give a great abundance of flowers early in the year and should be planted freely. Where the beds have to be cleared in May and planted with summer flowering plants, Tulips and other bulbs that have not completed their growth will suffer considerably, and their flowers will be much smaller the following season. My practice has been to dig a shallow trench in a sheltered position and put the Tulips in again as quickly as possible, covering the stems with earth to the same depth as before ; they have remained thus until the foliage has died away when they are taken up, dried, and stored as usual until October; during the next season they are grown on a piece of good ground at the Kitchen garden, here they recruit their strength, and by the end of the season have again formed good bulbs that are fit to plant in the beds in the following year. Thus by grow- ing two sets of bulbs, one for each year, very few need be purchased after the second year of spring bedding, except in the case of new varieties. Some trials carried out carefully for seven years showed that less damage was done by lifting the bulbs when in full flower, than by lifting about a month after flowering while the leaves were still fresh and healthy. TRIAL No. 1. Three good flowering roots of Tulip Keizers Kroon were planted in October 1 896, and were lifted after the foliage decayed naturally in 1 897, this process being repeated yearly 12 until 1 900, when they had increased to 27 bulbs, 1 6 of which were very small. TRIAL No. 2. This commenced under the same conditions as No 1 , but the bulbs were lifted when in full flower, and laid in again at once, these gave in 1 900 seventeen bulbs, 8 of which were very small. TRIAL No. 3. This commenced with three roots equal in size to the others, these were grown every year just the same, with the exception of lifting, which took place about a month later than No. 2, while the leaves were still fresh and healthy ; they were laid in again at once until the foliage decayed ; in 1900 the number of roots was 1 3 and 5 of them were very small. This shows that the most critical time in lifting the roots of Tulips is after the flowering period when the new bulb is developing. The trials were continued three years longer but the lifting periods of Nos. 2 and 3 were interchanged by mistake. With this exception the trials went on as before, the new periods of lifting being adhered to, the results were then weighed and counted. No. 1 bore 20 blooms, the roots when lifted weighed 1 Ib. 7oz., the total number of roots was 69, and 20 of these were flowering bulbs, 24 were medium sized, 25 were small ones. No. 2 bore 14 blooms, the roots weighed H^ozs., the total number was 45 roots, 1 7 were flowering size, 8 were medium size, and 20 were small. 13 No. 3 bore 5 blooms, the roots weighed 7jozs., the total number was 28 roots, 8 were flowering size, 3 were medium, and 1 7 were small. 14 CHAPTER II. PROPAGATION. With the exception of the bulbous plants which I have named, the plants used here are very easily propagated. This is a great advantage because from their nature, and the time for planting them in their winter quarters, they are not adapted for long journeys by rail, and as they must be used in large masses in order to get a good effect, they would prove expensive if purchased ; like all other operations in horticulture, there is a risk of failure, unless certain rules are followed. I will briefly indicate the system of propagation followed here, and to prevent repetition will divide the list previously given into six classes. CLASS I. Plants raised from division of the Stock in March : Arabis alpina flore pleno Helleborus atrorubens, caucasicus Aubrietias, all varieties and other varieties Erica carnea Iris foetidissima variegata ,, carnea alba „ pallida variegata Festuca glauca CLASS II. 'Plants raised by division of the Stock *n 15 Arabis albida Alyssum saxatile nana Auriculas, alpine varieties Carex rip aria variegata Daisy, all varieties Doronicum Austriacum ,, excelsum Hemerocallis fulva variegata Heuchera hispida syn H. Richardsonii Holcus mollis variegata Luzula sylvatica Phalaris arundinacea variegata elegans Phlox subulata Brightness Nelsonii Phlox subulata Sprite Vivid „ Newry Seedling Polyanthus, all varieties Primroses, ditto Scrophularia scorodonia variegata Saxifraga Camposii „ cordifolia purpurea ,. ligulata ,, moschata atropurpurea „ „ Guildford Seedling „ Rhei ,, purpurascens Symphytum officinale variegata Violas, all varieties Violets, single and double Waldsteinia trifolia CLASS III. ^Plants raised from seeds sown in the year previous to flowering, with the month of sowing : Alyssum saxatile nana, March Daisy (Bellis perennis) all varieties except Alice, June Erysimum compactum, June, first week Golden Feather (cPyrethrum aureum). July Honesty, variegated, March Myosotis alpestris, Qyeen Victoria, June Royal Blue „ ,, d iss it i flora ,. alba Onopordon acanthium, March 16 Polyanthus, all varieties ; February, first week, under glass Primroses ,, ,, ,, ,, Stock, Empress Elizabeth, June, first week Wallflowers, Earliest of All ; May, first week „ Phoenix ,, ,, Belvoir Castle Yellow ; June, first week Dark Red Double German „ ,, Ruby Gem ,, „ Salmon Queen ,, CLASS IV. Plants raised from seeds sown two or more years before required for flowering: Auriculas, alpine varieties ; March, two years before Helleborus foetidus ; August, three years before ,, atrorubens, caucasicus, olympicus and others ; August, three years before CLASS V. Plants raised from cuttings under glass in May : Arabis alpina flore pleno Wallflowers, double yellow Phlox divaricata ,, ,, Harpur Crewe Wallflowers, double dark red CLASS VI. Plants raised from cuttings in September '• Myosotis dissitiflora Wallflowers, double dark red », ,, alba ,, ,, yellow „ Dyerae „ „ Harpur Crewe Violas, all varieties 17 CLASS I. j4ubrietas. I consider this is the most useful family of plants for spring bedding, it is also very useful for many other purposes not connected with this subject ; all the varieties are very impatient of removal during warm dry weather, and unless the utmost care is taken it is impossible to remove them under those circum- stances without killing them ; in an ordinary way they ought not to be disturbed between the middle of April and the middle of October, but if that rule were carried out strictly we could not clear the beds for the summer bedding, without losing our stock of Aubrietias. I therefore worked out a system of growing two sets of each kind, those taken from the beds are laid in quickly on a cool shady border, firmly, without division, choosing a showery day about the end of May for the purpose ; if their life is to be saved they must have every attention in the way of watering and shading, and with all the care possible they will wither up and look like a lot of dry hay for several weeks : eventually, they will put out green buds, and after growing in that position all the winter will be ready in March for propagating, to provide plants for the following year's display ; small pieces with a portion of root attached will make large plants by the following October, if they are planted on a piece of good ground, and fastened in firmly. The pieces should be placed one foot apart each way, and will almost touch each other in the autumn if they do well. We raise, annually, over seven thousand plants in this way. If planted out sufficiently early, viz., as soon as severe frost is over, they seldom 18 require any water or any other attention during the summer, with the exception of hoeing and weeding. Some persons may prefer raising the plants from seeds ; this was always practised here previous to 1 894, but I do not consider it satisfactory, because none of the varieties will come true ; all shades from white to purple appear, no matter how carefully the seed is saved, it is therefore much better to practice division of the clumps, and have true colours according to the variety. Jlrabh alpina flore pleno. This is a very useful plant for the spring garden, but differs largely from the single variety in the matter of propagation ; the common kind may be moved and broken to pieces successfully at almost any time of the year, but the double variety fails largely, unless divided in March or early in April, and some pieces will even then refuse to grow. It is a good plan to bed in some of the old plants when the beds are cleared, for propagating the following spring, as these give more growing points than strong young plants ; sometimes when divided up the pieces will be rather long between the roots and the leaves, but each piece ought to have some portion of root attached to it, and the bare stem can be curled round if planted with a trowel, burying it up to the commencement of the leaves, this plant usually requires watering occasionally, until it commences to grow ; the distances for planting are about the same as given for Aubrietias. It may also be raised from cuttings ; this is explained on page 37. Erica carnea and E. c. alba. These are especially useful because they flower so early ; like other peat-loving plants PLATE II. DOUBLE ARABIS AND TULIPS. 19 they must always have a ball of soil attached to them when they are removed, and although peat is not absolutely necessary for them in the flower beds, they require a peat bed to grow in when in the reserve garden, and should never be planted in a soil containing much lime ; propagation may be effected in gardens by division of the clumps ; this should be done as early in the season as possible, or imme- diately after flowering is over. The pieces must be planted very firmly in peat beds which have been made ready several months previously, they will require close attention in watering, and if the weather is bright they must have some shade until growth commences ; it will take from two to four years before the plants are large enough for bedding out in the autumn, and even when not divided up, it is best not to use the plants two years in succession, but to let them have a year's rest in the reserve garden. This plant may also be raised from small cuttings, but private gardens do not possess the necessary appliances for propagating heaths, and that is best left for the nurserymen to do. Festuca glauca. This glaucous coloured grass is very useful sometimes as an edging. It loses colour somewhat in the winter months, but comes right again when fine weather returns ; it is easily increased by division, and if this is done early in March, small pieces will make good plants in a few months. It will also succeed if divided in June, but must not be broken so small at that date. The pieces may be planted 6 inches apart, in rows one foot from each other, and the only attention it requires beyond keeping it clear of 20 weeds, is to pull out the flower stalks when they appear. Helleborus atrorubens, H. caucasicus, H. Olympicus, and other varieties. These plants are commonly known as Lent Roses, and always succeed best if left in the same position from year to year, but to get them true to name they must be increased by division of the roots as soon as flower- ing is over ; the pieces should be pulled asunder without cutting, using a small handfork if the stocks are very large ; they may then be planted out one foot apart each way, on some good ground, and will require watering and mulching if the weather is hot and dry afterwards. In two or three years they may be moved to their permanent quarters. /ris foetidissima variegata. This is easily increased by division, and the pieces after being planted on a piece of good ground will make plants fit for use the following season. Iris pallida variegata. This is a far more beautiful plant than the preceding, both for its foliage and flowers, unfortunately it is not so robust in its growth, and takes two years' longer to make good plants after division ; like all others of this family it dislikes being moved after it gets established. CLASS II. The plants in this class are more easily increased, and are not so particular as to time of division. Arabis albida, single white. This is very easily propa- gated ; if pieces with a growing point are put in almost everyone will make a large plant by the following October, in fact they are often too large for single lines, and for that purpose it is best to put in some more pieces early in June. 21 This plant is easily raised from seed, but the flowers of seedlings vary much, and grow to different heights ; the best plan is to select one good plant and to work up a stock from it by division or cuttings. Alyssum saxatile nana. This plant does not increase so readily as some, unless especial care is taken at starting. The pieces need not have roots attached, but the old portion of stem must be fixed in the ground very firmly ; it is not a good subject to transplant in the autumn, particularly if the weather is dry, as it makes so few fibrous roots, it is there- fore best to wait until dry weather is over, before transplant- ing. There is a double variety, and one of a sulphur colour, but for most purposes the dwarf yellow variety is best. Auriculas, alpine, and other hardy varieties. Old plants of these may be divided after flowering, and in suitable soils and situations will soon make good plants again. They must be carefully watered in hot weather, and be grown in a cool moist corner, where they are shaded from the midday sun ; slugs are very fond of them and must be watched for. Carex riparia variegata. This is a pretty, light, feathery looking plant, which is useful for dotting in among other things; it is easily increased by division. The pieces should be planted in rows, six inches apart, and one foot between the rows ; the foliage dies away in winter, and comes up again in the spring like most others of the sedge family. daisies. All varieties may be increased by division of the plants in May, after they are removed from the beds ; the pieces with roots attached should be planted firmly four 22 inches apart in the rows, and nine inches between the rows. They are liable to suffer in dry, hot weather ; a cool border should therefore be chosen for them, one that is sheltered from the midday sun is best. Watering will need attention if the weather is dry, and is most effectual if applied in the evening, in addition to this an occasional weeding will be the only attention required. Several varieties may also be obtained true from seeds (see page 3 / .) Doromcum Austriacum. This and the following plant are not required in large quantities, and some people do not care for them ; they are useful for large beds that are some distance away from walks, as they grow tall and conspicuous. D. Austriacum is the dwarf est of the two and should be planted around the sides of the other, where it is grouped in beds or large plots ; both may be pulled into pieces after flowering is over, and if planted out at once, twelve inches apart each way, they will make nice plants by the following autumn. They are liable to burn up in hot weather instead of growing, and should have a little water occasionally until established. T^oronicum excelsum, sometimes called D. Harpur Crewe. This is taller than D. Austriacum and often grows three to four feet high in good soil ; it is useful for large beds and shrubbery borders, and may be propagated in the same way as D. Austriacum. Heuchera hispida, syn. H. Richardsonii. This is a very useful plant, as the foliage is a soft reddish brown in spring. It makes good plants for autumn planting, if the old plants are divided up into rooted portions in May, preserving all PLATE III. 23 the old underground stems, planting them six inches apart in the rows, and one foot between the rows ; it will not require any attention with the exception of weeding. Hemerocallis fulva variegata. This increases readily if the young growing shoots are separated in May, and planted put one foot apart each way ; all green shoots must be dis- carded, as they will not afterwards regain their variegation. Holcus mollis variegata. A very pretty form of one of our native grasses, this grows freely and forms a neat edging only two to three inches high ; small pieces put out in May, in rows one foot apart, will make nice plants by the following October. The foliage mostly disappears in winter, and shoots up again in the spring. Luzula sylvestris. This is another native grass which grows about six inches high, and is sometimes useful to give variety and lightness to the other plants, but should not be grown if naturally abundant in the locality ; it is easily increased by division in May, and should be planted one foot apart each way. 'Phalaris arundinacea variegata. This is the old- fashioned " Ribbon Grass " of cottage gardens, and is one of the best plants to dot in among lumpy growing things to give relief and lightness ; it dies down in the winter and is rather late before it makes much show in the spring. This is one of the easiest plants to increase, every little shoot with a piece of root attached will soon make a large plant, if pro- pagated in May or June. It will often have to be divided into two before planting in the autumn. Phalaris arundinacea elegantissima. This is a much 24 more graceful plant than the preceding, but is not always so useful for spring bedding ; it keeps its colour in the summer better than the old variety, and like that it is very easily propagated. Phlox subulata, Brightness. This and all varieties of P. subulata are neat, and remarkably pretty when in flower. Unfortunately, the type and some of the varieties are too late in flowering for the majority of spring bedding plants, and the others can only be used somewhat sparingly for the same reason ; the above is earlier than some of them, and brighter in colour than the old form. All the varieties of P. subulata, also P. Newry Seedling are easily increased by division after the flowering is over ; it is not necessary to have roots to each piece. If those without roots are planted by themselves, firmly, on a shady border, and are watered occasionally they will soon form roots ; the larger pieces with roots may be planted on the open quarters, but will need attention with water until growth commences. The smaller cuttings may be inserted under handlights or frames, in a mixture of leaf -mould, sand, and garden soil, until they have sufficient roots. They will bear transplanting to the open ground in September. P. suhulata Nelsonii. A very beautiful white variety. P. „ Sprite. Red. *P. „ cOwid. Salmon pink, very beautiful. *P. Newry Seedling. French grey. This flowers most abundantly, and is one of the very best plants for spring bedding, as it comes into bloom sooner than the varieties of P. subulata ; it is also a more vigorous grower, small pieces PLATE IV. 25 planted in May will make large plants before October, it should therefore be planted one foot apart each way in the nursery beds ; it is somewhat tender in winter and requires an open, sunny and rather dry position. This is a hybrid raised by Mr. Smith of Newry. 'Polyanthus. These plants may be increased by division as soon as flowering is over, and if carefully done, the pieces will make good plants by the following autumn, in many places. It is not possible to do this here owing to our eleva- tion and the dry character of our soil in the hot weather. I find the most successful and satisfactory plan is to raise them from seed as explained on page 34, but there is the disadvantage in that plan of not being able to perpetuate any distinct variety. I will briefly describe propagation by division. The plants soon feel the ill effects of removal and should always be replanted at once, before the foliage withers. Care must be taken to preserve as many roots as possible when dividing the old plants, and a strong knife is of great assistance ; the summer quarters should always be shady and moist, good soil is also necessary, and plenty of manure should be added some few weeks before planting. Hoeing must be done carefully, not to cut the roots which issue from the collar close under the leaves. Water must be applied during hot, dry weather ; the plants may be put in closely as they always succeed best when the leaves cover the ground, evaporation from the soil is then greatly reduced, the best distances therefore are — rows six inches apart, and the plants four inches apart in the rows. Primroses (Primula acaulis). The above directions 26 for propagating Polyanthuses are also applicable to Prim- roses, both single and double varieties, wherever they can be grown. Owing to the above reasons I have not been able to grow them successfully at Belvoir, but where they succeed they are among the most interesting and useful of spring flowering plants. Scrophularia scorodonia variegata. This plant is use- ful where one or two lines of variegated foliage are required. It does not make much show in the winter, but comes into growth again early in the spring ; it is increased by division of the rootstock after removal from the beds, side growths are not formed very freely, but all will grow if they are encouraged by watering and shading until they get established. Saxifrage Camposii (syn. S. Wallacdi). This is the best of the white flowered varieties in the mossy section, its flowers are large, and continue for some time in good condi- tion. I have used it chiefly as an edging and it looks well even when not in flower. It is increased by dividing the old plants. Two or three of the green shoots with as many of the old roots as possible, may be planted in rows nine inches apart, and four inches apart in the rows. This plant is liable to dry up if the weather is hot when it is first planted, and needs care in watering and shading. Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea. This belongs to the Megasea or Side-saddle section. It has large leaves and tall flower stems, varying from twelve to eighteen inches in height ; it is chiefly used for filling vases, as the leaves are hardy and stand rough weather well. It is easily increased by division, and requires plenty of room when growing. 27 Saxifraga ligulata. This also belongs to the large- leaved section, and is the best of that class for flowering, as it comes early and blooms very freely, the flowers are a nice bright pink with a dark eye. This variety is more tender than the others mentioned here, and occasionally gets severely cut by the late frosts ; it is easily propagated as directed for S. cordifolia purpurea. Saxifraga moschata atropurpurea. This and the two following varieties belong to the mossy section and are very useful little plants for edging, it is a little gem when studded all over with its bright red blossoms, which only grow about three inches high ; and is very useful for carpeting among other plants which do not cover the ground, such as Crocuses, Auriculas and others. It increases readily by division as directed for S. Camposii. Saxifraga moschata, Guildford Seedling. This grows six inches high when in flower, and is a brighter red than S. moschata atropurpurea, but not so free flowering ; it is used as an edging to other plants, and is propagated in the same way as S. Camposii. Saxifraga moschata T^hei. This grows to six inches in height when in flower, and yields abundance of pink and white blossoms. It is used chiefly as an edging plant, and requires the same treatment for propagation as S. Camposii. Saxifraga purpurascens. This belongs to the Megasea section and is useful on account of its leaves turning to a nice red shade in winter and early spring ; it is more compact in habit than S. cordifolia purpurea, and is useful for dividing lines in large beds, also to hide the bareness of taller growing 28 plants, such as Wallflowers, and for filling vases on terraces ; its flowers are pale pink and should be removed. Symphytum officinale variegata. This plant when in flower reaches a height of three to four feet, and is sometimes useful in that state. For some purposes it is best to break out the flower stem as soon as it appears, leaving the surrounding leaves, which are beautifully variegated with white and cream colour, and form a nice line of bold foliage in spring ; for this purpose it should be planted about nine inches apart. It is also useful as a plant for dotting in among other things, such as dark coloured Wallflowers, Stocks, or Heuchera hispida. In this style of planting it should be fully two feet apart, and the stems should remain to flower. The best way to propagate this plant is to pull the shoots apart after flowering, and plant them one foot apart each way, they will die down to the ground for a time, but will spring up again at the end of the summer. After planting out in the beds in the autumn the leaves disappear for the winter, and come up in their best form and colour early in the spring. Cuttings of the roots will grow in a similar way to Horse- radish or Seakale, but I find they invariably come green, as do the plants that spring up after removal. Violas. Under this head I include all the Pansy class of flowers without attempting to distinguish them, although Admiration, Blue King and Cliveden Purple are often called Pansies ; all of them require similar treatment, which must vary according to soil, locality and the weather, more than for any other plant mentioned in these pages. Different seasons affect these plants so much that it is always advisable 29 to grow part of the stock on one aspect and part on another. Shade usually suits them here in the summer, especially in hot dry seasons ; at such times they require a north border, and plenty of water. In a dull, rainy season such a position does not suit them ; they will then grow best in a nice open place. In a wet September, mildew is often very troublesome if they are in a shady position. They are easily increased by division after clearing the beds in May, also by cuttings put in a cold frame early in September (see page 39) ; the first plan is the quickest and best. If required for spring flowering they must not exhaust themselves by flowering during the summer, all flowering growths should be pinched back to three or four leaves as soon as the flowers open, or they may be clipped over with shears ; this will cause young shoots to start from the base, but stopping must not be con- tinued too late in the autumn or the flowering will be delayed in the spring. The date for the last stopping will vary according to the locality. For places one hundred miles N, of London, the last week in August will be late enough, a fortnight later will do for those farther south, and for places farther north the middle of August would be the latest date that is safe ; but this can be ascertained best by experiment at each place, the character of the soil has also a decided influence on this point, light soils are warmer and more favourable to autumn growth than cold heavy clays, and the dates must vary accordingly. In cold wet summers, like 1907, stopping will not be necessary. Violas like generous treatment, and succeed best if the ground is dug a consider- able time before planting, and a good supply of farmyard 30 manure is incorporated with it ; the plants should be nine inches apart in the rows, and the rows one foot from each other. Frequent hoeings are necessary to keep down weeds, and are also beneficial to the plants in the summer. Fif'o/e/5, single and double. The only single variety grown in quantity here for outdoor flowering is the old single Russian Violet. This is hardy, flowers early and continues all through the autumn and winter whenever a few mild days occur ; the larger varieties such as Princess of Wales, The Czar, Victoria Regina, and others, are not hardy enough so far north to be satisfactory. In a mild winter they flower a little in sheltered places, in severe winters the foliage is all killed, and the plants are much weakened in consequence. Of the double kinds only one is grown for outdoor flowering, viz., Lady Hume Campbell. This does remarkably well in a large bed containing about five hundred plants, which is sheltered by the overhanging boughs of a Cedar of Lebanon, a situation in which many plants would fail to thrive ; it may be mentioned in passing that Ten-week Stocks do well in this bed in summer. All the violets are propagated in the same manner, the plants are broken to pieces as soon as they finish flowering, and are planted on cool borders for the summer, six inches between the plants and nine inches between the rows ; a north aspect behind a wall or building is best for them ; they will also do fairly well among rows of Raspberries or Peas, if these run from north to south, as they get partially shaded from the sun during the greater part of the day. In hot, dry weather they will need a good water- ing every evening. This needs close attention or red spider PLATE V. 31 will destroy them if it is allowed to thrive, no other operations are necessary beyond an occasional hoeing to keep down weeds and to keep the soil in a healthy condition. If the Violet fungus — Ascochyta viola — attacks the plants, it is best to plant out on another bed the following year ; this fungus is sometimes very destructive, and owing to the tender nature of the foliage it is impossible to apply solutions strong enough to stop an attack after it has developed seriously. The best preventive is to grow the plants as vigorously as possible by close attention to manuring, watering and weeding. Waldsteinia trifolia. This is a very pretty, low-growing plant allied to Potentilla, and useful for edgings to other things ; if broken up after flowering, every piece will grow and will make plants large enough for planting the following autumn. CLASS III. Plants raised from seeds sown in the year previous to flowering. Alyssum saxatile nana. Raising this plant by division is treated of on page 2 1 . Seed gives the most compact plants and they come true to type ; in order to have plants large enough for autumn planting it should be sown under glass early in March, and transplanted to a prepared border outdoors as soon as large enough. Daisy ({Qellis perennis). The double varieties come tolerably true from seed if it is obtained from reliable sources ; as the seed is small it should be sown in pans or boxes and placed in a cool frame or pit, until the plants are large enough 32 to go out in the open ground. Early in June is a suitable time for sowing ; with a little attention in watering after they are put out they will grow quickly and soon make large plants if the weather is not too hot and dry ; in the latter case they will need watering occasionally. A border with an Eastern aspect is best for them. They usually commence to flower in September and continue all through the winter if the weather is mild. Choice named varieties can only be propagated by division (see page 21), but I have had to discontinue growing them, as they die here in the dry weather. Erysimum compactum. This bears a pretty yellow flower similar in appearance to a small Wallflower. It flowers earlier and continues in bloom for a considerable time ; it is raised from seeds sown in the first week of June, and requires the same treatment as Wallflowers (see page 35.) Golden Feather CPyrethrum aureum). This plant is useful in winter and spring as an edging to other things. It should be sown in boxes in July and placed in a cold frame. When the plants are large enough they must be transplanted to the open ground. Four inches apart in the rows, with six inches between the rows will give them ample space until the autumn. This plant may also be increased by breaking off the side shoots in the autumn from the summer bedding plants, if these are put in firmly in October while re-planting is going on, they soon take root and are almost as good as the seedlings in the following spring. Honesty, variegated, (Lunaria hiennis variegata). This plant is sometimes useful for mixing with other things to give relief to them, such as Wallflowers Ruby Gem, or Dark 33 Red. Unfortunately, its flowers are of a bad tint for blending with other colours. This plant has a strange habit in not showing its variegation until the flower stem rises up in the spring. It should be sown in March or it does not get strong enough to give the effect required. When large enough to transplant it should be placed one foot apart in rows and the rows eighteen inches apart. Care must be taken not to break the leaves when transplanting or hoeing. Myosotis alpeslris, Queen Victoria These may all be „ „ Royal <3/ue raised from seed „ dissitiflora which should be „ „ alba sown on a cool shady border as soon as it is ripe, seed of the previous year's growth will also do equally well. If the weather is dry several good soakings of water will be required or the seeds will not germinate. The end of June is quite soon enough for sowing. The plants may remain in the seed bed until the first week in September and should then be transplanted to an open position where they can remain until required for beds in October : six inches apart in the rows and nine inches between the rows will be suitable distances. M. dissitiflora and its varieties are somewhat tender when flowering commences in the spring and occasionally suffer from frost. The varieties of M. alpestris are hardier and as they flower later than M. dissitiflora they are often more satisfactory ; M. a. Queen Victoria soon reverts to the original type unless rigidly selected ; M. a. Royal Blue is the best for colour. Onopordon acanthium. This is a noble looking plant when the stem runs up for flowering in April and May, and 34 is very useful where a bold effect is required. It is a biennial and should be sown early in March or the seed will often lie dormant until the following autumn. When the seedlings have made the third leaf they should be transplanted and must have plenty of room if the ground is good as they grow quickly into large plants. One foot apart in the rows and two feet between the rows will be necessary. As this plant is tender in severe winters, it should not be moved after the middle of October but left until the end of February. It should not be allowed to ripen its seed in quantity or it will become troublesome. 'Polyanthuses and 'Primroses. Seeds of these plants come fairly true to colour, especially the yellow and white varieties if care is taken to prevent inoculation when in flower. If seed is sown under glass in February and the plants are gradually hardened off as soon as large enough to transplant to the open border they may be grown into large plants by the following autumn and will flower abundantly in spring. They are liable to suffer from drought in summer and should always be planted on a border facing North where they will escape the hottest rays of the sun ; the rows should be nine inches apart and the plants four inches apart in the rows. During hot weather they will require water occasionally in the evening, but much depends on the situation and the character of the soil ; low, moist localities suit these plants best, and a soil that contains plenty of humus and a fair proportion of sand without being " light." The seed of Wilson's Blue Primrose is a long time in germinating, and like all Primula seeds, should never be allowed to get dry after sowing. PLATE Vh PLATE VII. 35 Stocks — Empress Elizabeth. This variety closely re- sembles the Brompton Stock but is more compact in growth, it comes true to colour — which is a rosy pink — and a large percentage of the plants bear double flowers, if the seed is obtained from a reliable source. Sowing should take place the first week in June, and the plants must be treated as advised below for Wallflowers up to the middle of October, when the Stock plants must be potted and kept in cold frames for the winter in the midland and northern districts ; south of London they would be safe in the beds in ordinary winters. They may be planted out from the frames about the end of February ; some of them will be in flower before then, but they last well. Wallflowers. The single varieties and double German are always raised from seed, that of Phoenix and Earliest- of -all being sown in the first week in May, as these varieties flower in the autumn, and throughout the winter if it is a mild one. The other varieties should be sown in the first week of June. If the weather is dry the drills should be soaked with water before the seed is sown, and the seed beds may require more water at in- tervals until the time comes for transplanting. I generally put them out about the last week in July, choosing a showery time for the operation, as they suffer from hot sunshine when moved young ; they soon grow into nice bushy plants and are allowed six inches between the plants and one foot between the rows. About the middle of September or as soon as showery weather comes after that, the plants are partially lifted by pushing a fork down on one side of the plants and depressing the handle a little, which breaks the main roots, and causes more 36 fibres to be formed ; this has been a practice here for many years and is undoubtedly of great assistance to the plants in many ways ; they will flag a little but soon recover and are ready to plant out in October. Planting should be done if possible without causing the plants to flag ; I find those that flag much are almost certain to die if severe frosts follow in the winter ; in moist districts it is advisable to plant thinly in the beds to allow the leaves to dry at every opportunity, fog and misty rain continuing for several days are more fatal to them than severe frosts. CLASS IV. 'Plants raised from seeds sown two or more years before required to flower. Auriculas. The alpine varieties are the most satisfactory for outdoor culture as they have more vigour in them ; they may be easily raised from seed if it is sown in pans in March. These must be put in a cold pit or frame and be kept cool and moist until the plants get four leaves ; after this stage so much care will not be necessary, but these plants need moisture and partial shade at all times. They may be planted out in the open after the hottest weather is over, but will not be ready for use in beds until they are eighteen months old ; when the plants get large enough they may also be increased by division (see page 21). Helleborus foetidus. This is a very slow growing plant when small and it often takes two or more years before the seed germinates ; it should be sown in the open ground as soon as ripe, and be left in the seed bed a year or more after it comes up. It grows quickly after it gets six inches high 37 and should then have a space of one foot between the plants and eighteen inches between the rows. It is very useful for filling large vases on terrace walls and similar purposes, as the plants grow twelve to eighteen inches high, and the foliage does not suffer from frost in winter. Helleborus atrorubens, H. caucascius, H.olympicus and others of that type commonly known as Lent Roses may be raised from seed by similar treatment to the above and will take quite as long to grow to a flowering state ; they must be grown in permanent beds as they object to frequent removals. They may also be increased by division (see page 20). CLASS V. Plants raised from cuttings under glass in May. Arabis alpina flore pleno. This plant is not easily pro- pagated by division. If the weather is dry at the time many of the pieces will shrivel up instead of growing, and in this respect it differs considerably from the single variety ; cuttings put in under handlights or in frames on a cool shady border are easily rooted, and may then be hardened off and planted out in the open ground until October ; they will then be nice plants fit to go into the beds for flowering the following spring. 'Phlox divaricata. This plant does not grow quickly the first season whether raised by division or by cuttings, but plants from cuttings although not so large as the others will flower well the following spring, and will surprise those who grow them for the first time. They should be put in a frame in May on a cool border, and shaded from sunshine until rooted, the soil for them must have an admixture of leaf mould 38 and sand and must be firm ; small young shoots slipped off from the base of the old plants are the best for this purpose, and in order to get them it is advisable to have a small bed of old plants grown specially for the purpose where they will not be disturbed by moving. The frame must be kept close until growth commences, and after gradually hardening, the plants may be planted on an east or west border, six inches apart and can remain there until planting time comes in Octo- ber ; no stopping of the plants is required, they will keep to one shoot the first season, and will branch out from the base in spring before flowering ; but in order to have a good mass of bloom they must be planted in the beds six inches apart. This is one of the most pleasing spring flowering plants, both for colour and form ; there are two or three shades of lavender, and one is almost white. Wallflowers — double varieties. The best of these are the old Double Red, Double Yellow, and small Double Yellow sometimes called Harpur Crewe. I have not been able to trace the origin of the latter variety ; it is however recent when compared with the other two ; it was sent to Belvoir at some date previous to 1 892, by the late Miss Hope, of War die Lodge, Edinburgh, and many years after was certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society under the name of Harpur Crewe. The above are quite distinct from the German Double Wallflowers, they form bushy plants and do not produce seed, it is therefore necessary to produce them from cuttings. These may be put in under glass on a cool border in May, and will require a good deal of attention in watering and shading until rooted ; after they have made 39 considerable growth they should be stopped by pinching out the point, they will then break into several shoots. When well rooted they may be planted in the open ground, and will make good plants for the following spring. CLASS VI. 'Plants raised from cuttings in September. Myosotis dissitiflora The first of these is raised „ ,, alba with less trouble from seed, „ ,, Dyers and comes true to the original variety if saved with care (see page 33.) The white kind also usually comes true if care is taken to keep it from fertilization when in flower ; the large flowered variety Dyerae can only be obtained by cuttings, the others will also succeed in this way if a larger stock is required. A quantity of old plants should be planted thickly together when the beds are cleared in May ; they will require watering and shading for a time if the weather is bright and will dry up a good deal, but after a time will put out a quantity of new shoots. As soon as the hottest weather is over in September these may be put in firmly on a warm open border ; they soon root if a portion of the old stem is left on them, and in six weeks will make good plants for the beds. Violas. All the varieties of these may be propagated in September but will not make plants large enough for bedding out until the following May. If none of these are required for planting out before October some at least will be large enough for dividing up in August, and if planted on a cool shady border will be ready to go into the beds in October. 40 Raising them from cuttings therefore takes much longer, and is much more trouble than raising plants by division, but Violas are the most fugitive of all plants used for this style of gardening; in dry summers they will sometimes die by the thousand, and raising them from cuttings has to be resorted to in order to replenish the stock. A frame should be placed on a shady border and a liberal supply of leaf mould and sand must then be worked into the soil ; after making all firm again the cuttings may be put in, choosing young vigorous shoots from the base if they can be had, but all pieces will grow at this part of the year. The frame must be kept close and shaded from bright sunshine for a time After they are rooted, air must be given on all suitable occasions, but the lights must be on during severe weather throughout the winter; as soon as severe frosts are over in spring the young plants may be transplanted to the open border, until required for the beds. Wallflowers — double varieties. These may also be propagated in September, but will not flower properly for 20 months. They should be put in under handlights or frames in a similar manner to Violas, and will require such treatment until the following spring. 41 CHAPTER III. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PLANTS. The list of plants suitable for spring bedding is not a large one, as so many plants which are otherwise suitable do not commence flowering until May. They cannot therefore be cleared off in time for the summer occupants, as the beds require a fortnight's rest before planting again. The grower has a choicer and softer set of colours than those used for summer bedding, and is not so liable to produce unpleasant effects, but the shades of blue in Aubrietia and Myosotis require great care in selecting their places. Erica carnea and Lunaria biennis (Honesty) are also difficult plants to group with others. In regard to the form of the plants, there is not much choice of light foliage to take off the heaviness of some of the flowering plants when grown in large masses, such as wall- flowers, Aubrietias and others. I have depended largely on tulips for adding grace and finish to the picture. The selec- tion of varieties on pages 9 & 1 0 gives a wide range of colours, and two different periods of flowering — the varieties marked " late " should only be used among Wallflowers, Phloxes, Violas, Stocks and Myosotis, they will thus coincide fairly 42 well in their time of flowering, and aid each other in the general effect. Many other varieties of Tulips have been tried here, and for various reasons have been found unsuit- able and not so good as those mentioned in the list. The Darwin and florists' varieties are too late in flowering to be used extensively in spring bedding and should be grown in borders with other later flowering plants. One of the most effective tulips is Coleur Cardinal, which has a rich purple shading down the stem, and on the outside of the flowers. This variety is the most admired among all those on the list. It is very effective with a groundwork of double Arabis, or of Phlox divaricata — an edging of Red Daisy — Firefly — in the first instance, or double White Daisy in the second would complete the bed. Tulip Vermilion Brilliant is a very useful red variety for mixing among White Polyanthus as it flowers a little before some of the other red kinds. Heuchera hispida or Saxifraga Guildford Seedling will form a suitable edging. Tulip (5/egans is another good red kind, which has the additional merit of a nice vase shaped flower. A bed of the double Arabis as a groundwork, with this tulip rising above it and an edging of Myosotis Dyerae, was one of the most effective I have ever had (see "Plate II.) Tulip Duchesse de 'Parma looks well with a ground- work of yellow Polyanthus, and an edging of Saxifraga moschata. It is also a good variety for dotting among yellow Wallflowers, its bronzy yellow flowers harmonise well with the purer yellow of the Wallflower; a broad band of blue Aubrietia round it — if the bed is large enough — will look PLATE VIII. 43 well, and a thin line of the small variegated grass (Holcus mollis variegata) as an edging, will complete the bed. Tulip Gesneriana rosea is also a good variety to use with yellow wallflowers, the contrast is not too strong to be pleasing and the variety is vigorous and comes up well above the wallflowers ; the latter should always be planted rather thinly in order to allow the tulips enough light in the spring. This is especially necessary with Tulip retroflexa, Tulip Picotee and similar weak stemmed varieties. Tulip retroflexa is a pale yellow of exquisite form and looks extremely well with a groundwork of dark red Wall- flowers (see plate VIT)> a row of Alyssum saxatile nana may be used next, then two rows of yellow Polyanthus and a broad band of Aubrieta Hendersonii, a line of Saxifraga moschata atro purpurea will make a suitable edging. ^ulip, White Swan, looks well above a groundwork of dark red Wallflowers, or Wallflower Ruby Gem. The latter is much admired by some persons, but it is a difficult colour to blend with others ; white or cream coloured Violas may be used next, and a line of Saxifraga Rhei will make a suitable edging, For Wallflower , Salmon Queen, Tulip Gesneriana rosea is the best of all. Tulip Picotee may be used for a change, but does not get its full pink colour until rather late in the season. This tulip is seen at its best with a groundwork of Phlox divaricata, and a good edging for this is Saxifraga Camposii, which is the freest to flower among the white varieties. 44 Trouble German Wallflowers are not suitable for growing in dense masses as their spikes are so heavy. They look best if dotted in about eighteen inches apart, on a groundwork of yellow Polyanthus, a band of Viola Cliveden Purple or Viola Robinsons' Standard may be used next and an edging of Aubrietia variegata will complete the bed. If preferred, tulips may also be used in this combination, either Golden Crown or Mr. Farncombe Saunders are suitable, the latter variety is a very tall grower. All the Aubrietias are suitable for use as a groundwork for tulips — A. Hendersonii looks well with Tulip Chrysolora ; A. graeca blue with Tulip Cottage Maid ; A. Leichtlinii with Tulip White Swan ; A. Moerheimii with Tulip Royal Standard Striped ; A. Dr. Mules with Tulip Duchesse de Parma ; the various double daisies planted in two lines form suitable edgings for these beds. Phlox Newry Seedling makes a most effective bed when in full bloom, as it forms a dense mass of tiny flowers of a French grey colour, and only grows about four inches above the ground. A pink tulip such as Coleur Ponceau harmonises well with this and Double Pink Daisy may be used as an edging. Single Arabis (if a good variety is secured) makes a nice groundwork for Scilla Siberica, as the Arabis flowers early if the weather is mild. Doronicum excelsum syn. Harpur Create is a telling plant for a bed at a distance from the walks, but should never be used in the foreground of the picture as it grows too tall — a row of D. Austriacum should be planted around 45 it to modulate the height of the other. Tulip Mr. Farn- combe Saunders may be used for dotting in. A double row of Heuchera hispida may be used to finish the bed, or if it is large enough a broad band of Aubretia graeca (blue) may follow the Heuchera and a line of Holcus mollis variegata may be used as an edging. Erica carnea is one of the earliest plants to flower, and is finished before the others get into full bloom. It is too dense in growth to allow Tulips growing well with it, and the colour is too hard to allow others to be mixed with it. Single White Arabis or Double White Daisy may be used as an edging. Myosotis alpestris Royal {Qlue is far superior to the other Forget-me-Nots for bedding ; it may be used for very large beds, as it fills up well when in flower, but being at other times a plant of low growth, it is well to dot in some plants of Iris foetidissima variegata if the bed is large. Tulip White Swan may be used with it or Tulip Picotee looks very pretty in this combination ; a band of Viola Bullion may be placed next, and for an edging either Aubrietia variegata or Saxifraga moschata atropurpurea will look well. Auriculas look very thin and bare in winter when the foliage decays and I find it a good plan to plant one of the dwarf mossy Saxifrages among them, either S. moschata atropurpurea or S. Guildford Seedling are suitable. They form • a very nice mass when in flower, and harmonise well with the tints of the Auriculas. These small plants should be planted in beds near a walk where they can easily be seen and dwarf-growing tulips such as Murillo or Le Candeur 46 may be planted in the same bed about fifteen inches apart, an edging of Waldsteinia trifolia will make a suitable finish, ^he Variegated Crown Imperial (Fritillaria imperialis variegata) is a very effective plant if used sparingly (see plate IX) where it is planted among Viola Admiration and V. Belvoir Castle White ; the tulip mixed with it is Phyllis, a pale rose coloured variety, and there is a row of cream coloured Viola (Broom of the Cowdenknowes) at the edge. This arrangement was raised two feet above the ground in the form of a round basket covered with ivy on the outside. Another good groundwork for the above Frittillaria is Dark Red Wallflower, when Tulip Picotee may also be used. A broad band of Double Arabis may be planted next the Wallflowers and two rows of Double Red Daisy will make a suitable edging. Variegated Honesty is useful for dotting among Wall- flower Ruby Gem, and White Swan Tulips may be mixed with them, or Tulip Summer Beauty may be used. The variegation does not show on the Honesty until the spring, when the flower stems commence to grow ; unlike most variegated plants it usually comes true from seed. Either pale yellow or white violas may be used next to these and if the bed is large a line of Festuca glauca will make a good edging. Phlox divaricata is perhaps the choicest in appearance of all the spring flowers used for bedding ; it has blooms of a pleasing pale blue, sweet scented, and rising to 1 2 or 15 inches in height ; it lasts well when in flower, but is rather late in opening ; it has already been referred to on page 42. PLATE IX. PLATE X. 47 as a suitable ground for Tulip Coleur Cardinal . Those who consider this contrast too strong may use Tulip Picotee. A large bed I had in 1901 contained 200 Phlox divaricata in the centre, among these were distributed 9 plants of Symphytum variegatum, 9 plants of Phalaris arundinacea variegata and 50 Tulip Picotee, a broad band of 200 Aubrietia Leichtlinii finished the bed. Seen when all were in flower together this was very much admired, and is one of the best combinations I have ever seen. Phlox Nelsonii is rather too late in flowering to be used largely for beds, but it is such a general favourite when in flower that few people will care to be without it. It should have a sunny position, and is very suitable for use as an edg- ing to Viola Admiration, or any similar dark purple or blue Violas, as they flower well together, and if a trifle late they can sometimes be left a few days longer than the other beds. Phlox Vivid. This is a pleasing salmon pink in colour and flowers before the last mentioned variety ; it may there- fore be used freely, either as a centre for moderate sized beds or for a band around Double Arabis, Viola Countess of Kintore, Myosotis dissitiflora Dyerae, or similar coloured flowers ; a white Tulip such as White Swan will suit it best, Double Tulip, Murillo, will also look well. Polyanthus, Yellow. This has always been much admired at Belvoir ; it has been mentioned on page 42 as a groundwork for Tulip Duchesse de Parma ; a crimson tulip such as Vermilion Brilliant may also be used, as the yellow is soft, and the contrast is not too pronounced for most people ; two rows of Double Red Daisy will make a good 48 edging, or Aubrietia graeca, blue, may be used when Tulip Duchesse de Parma is chosen. When the Polyanthus is used as a band around taller plants such as Dark Red Wall- flowers, it is well to plant a row of Alyssum saxatile nana next to the Wallflowers, and then two or three rows of the Polyanthus, the season of blooming is thus prolonged as the Alyssum will continue for a fortnight longer than the Polyanthus. Polyanthus, White (see plate IV). This is quite as easy to grow as the yellow variety, and comes fairly true from seed; although not such a pure white as Gilbert's Harbinger was, it is the best substitute I can grow here in quantity, owing to defects of soil and situation which have killed the better variety ; almost any Tulip among those mentioned on pages 9 & 1 0, may be used among these plants, except those marked late. Saxifraga moschata atropurpurea. This and the other mossy Saxifrages, S. Rhei, S. Camposii and S. Guildford Seedling, are used chiefly for edging beds of other plants, or for carpeting the ground among sparse foliaged plants, such as Auriculas, or some of the Violas which often look bare early in spring. These Saxifrages can be planted in March in cases of emergency, and will do well. Saxifraga ligulata. When this plant is used either Tulips or Hyacinths should be planted among it, in order to ensure some flowers if the Saxifrage is cut by frost in the late spring months, also to prolong the season. Hyacinths will bloom simultaneously with it, La Grandesse, white ; or Gigantea, blush, look well, or Tulip Vermilion Brilliant Xt. 49 may be used instead. Saxifrage purpurascens. The leaves of this plant change to a pretty red shade in the winter, It is useful for forming a single line around large masses of Wallflowers, also for filling vases, but is not suitable for filling the centres of beds ; the flowers are a pale pink shaded with purple, and are usually picked off before they open. Viola Admiration. This variety gives the richest shade of purple of all the spring flowering plants. It is rather late in opening its flowers, but it is well to have some of it in a sunny position, and late Tulips such as Picotee should be planted with it. Viola Behoir Castle White (see plate XI). This is the best of all the white varieties, and was raised here from Ardwell Gem crossed with another variety ; Tulip Fairy Queen looks well with this, and a line of Saxifraga Guild- ford Seedling, or two rows of Daisy Alice will make a nice edging. Uiola {Blue King. This is one of the oldest varieties in existence, and is especially valuable on account of its early flowering and its peculiar shade of blue. It is also very free in flowering ; the prettiest Tulip to use with it is Cottage Maid, and an edging of Double White Daisy in two rows, or one row of Phlox Newry Seedling is suitable. Viola <2?room of the Cowdenknowes. This is a pale yellow variety which gives an abundance of flowers, and is a pleasing shade of soft yellow not often seen in flowers. It was raised by Mr. J.Robertson of Cowdenknowes, Earlston. 50 The name refers to an old Scotch ballad ; a suitable Tulip for this plant is Wouverman, and a band of Aubrietia graeca, blue, will form a suitable edging to the bed. Uiola {F)ullion. This the best and freest flowering yellow when it does well. Unfortunately, it is rather tender and should only be used in favourable positions ; Tulip Duchesse de Parma, or T. Golden Crown may be used with it, and Double Red Daisies make a pretty edging for the bed. Uiola Canary. This is a pale yellow variety, lately raised here. It makes a nice centre for a bed, and may have Tulip Le Merveille planted with it, and a band of Aubrietia Hendersonii at the edge of the bed. *Uiola Cliveden Purple. Instead of being purple, this variety is a rich claret colour ; it is one of the oldest and still one of the most effective, as it commences to flower early and continues until many of the other spring flowers are over. I have used it as a broad band around other plants such as Wallflower Salmon Queen, or White Polyanthus ; a broad line of Aubrietia graeca, blue, may follow it, then a row of Phlox Newry Seedling, to be finished off with a single line of Saxifraga moschata atropurpurea ; the whole of this arrangement would require a bed not less than twelve feet across. Viola Countess of Kintore. This is a general favourite, its colour being a rich purple, with a white blotch on the upper petals. It harmonises well with Tulip Proserpine, or if the bed is a small one T. Stanley may be used ; for an edging Saxifraga Camposii or two lines of Holcus mollis variegata are suitable. PLATE xil. 51 Viola Robinson's Standard. This is an early flowering hardy variety, of a purple colour, and blossoms very freely, (see plate 1).) which shows a bed with this variety in the centre, the Tulip dotted among it is T. Cottage Maid, and the edging is one row of Double White Daisy. Viola Skylark is very effective in a mass if a bright coloured Tulip is planted with it; either Vermilion Brilliant, or Coleur Cardinal may be used, and an edging of Aubrietia graeca, blue, makes a good finish. Violet, single Russian. This is the hardiest of all the violets usually grown in gardens, and is the only single variety used in large quantities here. Such kinds as Princess of Wales will only exist in the most sheltered nooks, such as beds over- hung by thick Fir trees or other evergreens, and if planted in these positions they must have plenty of water in dry weather. Violet, double, Lady Hume Campbell. We have used this for bedding out in autumn for many years with great success. Plants are raised on cool borders in the kitchen garden during the summer, as described on page 30, and are put in the beds in October; specially sheltered spots are chosen, where the plants are protected from cold by thick evergreens ; they are often in flower when planted, and continue throughout the winter if it is mild, but they make the best show in spring if they rest during the winter. This plant is always used without anything mixed with it. Waldsteinia trifolia. This is useful for edging beds where greater variety is required, its flowers resemble 52 Potentilla repens, and when not in flower its foliage is very pretty. Wallflower, Belvoir Castle Yellow. This is the best of the yellow varieties. When true it has not a trace of brown in it, and bears large flowers which are freely pro- duced on rather long spikes, but the plant itself is dwarf if well grown. Wallflowers are well known to be among the most difficult plants to obtain true from seed as they are so easily fertilized ; those who have a difficulty in obtaining this plant true to character, should try Veitch's Select Yellow, which is an extra good strain. The best Tulip to use with this is Duchesse de Parma. If a large bed is to be planted a row of Heuchera hispida should surround the centre of Wallflowers, then two rows of Viola Blue King, two rows of Double Arabis should come next to the Viola, and if these are planted rather thinly, some purple Crocuses or Scilla Siberica may be put in among the Arabis at six inches apart ; they will make an early show and can then be pressed down out of sight. Wallflower, Veitch's dark red. This is the best and truest variety I have found among the dark brown Wall- flowers. Tulip White Swan or T. retroflexa are used with it (see plate VII) ; as the beds are large a row of Saxifraga purpurascens, or Symphytum officinale variegatum follows next the Wallflowers to hide the stems. If the Symphytum is used I sometimes put the old Ribbon Grass (Phalaris) at intervals of two feet in the rows ; next comes a line of Alyssum saxatile nana, and next to that two rows of yellow Polyanthus ; if there is room two rows of Blue Aubrietia 53 come next, and for an edging two rows of Double White Daisy may be planted. Wallflower 'fyuby Gem. This variety makes a nice change in colour if many large beds of Wallflowers are to be used ; either Tulip White Swan or T. retroflexa may be planted with it, or T. Pico tee may be used for a change, one row of Saxifraga purpurascens may be planted next, then two or three rows of White Polyanthus, and two rows of Double Red Daisy will make a good finish. Wallflower Salmon Queen. This opens a bright pink and fades away to grey. It is much admired by some people, and is sometimes called Eastern Queen. The best Tulip for mixing with it is Gesneriana rosea, as this relieves the dead- ness of the grey colour when the Wallflower fades ; a row of Scrophularia scorodonia variegata looks well next to the Wallflowers, then two rows of Viola Cliveden Purple may be planted, and an edging of two rows of Aubrietia variegata will complete the bed. 54 CHAPTER IV. As mentioned in the introduction to this book, there are many plants which flower early in the year that are not suitable for planting in the beds after the summer occupants are removed, because they naturally commence growth early in the autumn ; these are best accommodated in herbaceous or shrubbery borders, or in small beds which will not be too conspicuous while they are bare of foliage. Most of the plants mentioned here are quite leafless from the middle of July until February or later. The following plants all belong to this class : Anemone blanda and its varieties, Anemone fulgens and its varieties, Anemone hepatica (syn. Hepatica triloba) and A. h. angulosa, Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), Crocus imperati, Crocus, ordinary varieties in various colours, Corydalis cava albiflora, Chionodoxa Lucillae, Gentian a acaulis, Helleborus niger and its varieties, Iris pumila in variety, I. reticulata, Lily of the Valley, Muscari conicum, Narcissus many varieties, Primula cortusoides, P. Japonica, Puschkinia scillioides, Scilla Siberica, Scilla bifolia, Tulipa Kaufmanniana, and Triteleia uniflora. Anemone blanda. This is the earliest of the above in commencing to flower. It frequently appears in December ; 55 the flowers are of various shades of white, blue or pink, and last a long time in good condition, as they have the useful habit of closing up in rough wintry weather and expand again when better conditions prevail ; many persons complain of their failures to grow this plant ; these may usually be traced to one of the following causes : first, the colour of the flowers will deteriorate if the plant is allowed to sow its seeds, as these grow very freely and in time take full posses- sion of the site ; secondly, the roots should be lifted every second year as soon as the foliage turns yellow, and must be planted in a fresh place in August ; if this is not done the roots are almost certain to be killed by a fungus. The flowers that appear afterwards are from young seedling roots which are not so easily killed, and these are weak and pale in colour ; owing to this I have known some growers imagine that the plant deteriorated in colour after a year or two's growth. The soil before planting should be well manured and dug some time previously ; the roots succeed best in resisting the fungus if they are broken into pieces the size of hazel nuts as soon as they are lifted. They should never be planted deeper than two inches ; planting ought to be com- pleted before the middle of August. jl. blanda Cypriana. This is a very beautiful variety of the above, which was sent here by Herr Max Leichtlin, it flowers later than the type, the flowers being white inside and striped with sky blue outside ; it was awarded a First Class Certificate by the Royal Horticultural Society in 1 899. Seedling plants of this do not come true to colour. A. blanda Scythinica. This also came from the same 56 noted grower, and differs from the preceding in its flowers being pale blue on both sides and larger; it is also later in blooming. jJnemone apennina. This resembles A. blanda a little, but is taller and paler in colour ; it is later in coming into flower, its roots also are quite distinct, as they are in the form of long rhizomes, whereas those of A. blanda and its varieties are more or less globular. I consider it quite distinct enough to form a separate species, although most botanists class the two together ; it is not subject to fungoid attacks at the root like A. blanda and A. fulgens, and may be left in the same place for several years without removal. The directions given on page 55 for planting A. blanda apply to this variety also. Anemone fulgens and A. f. grcEca. These are most useful for garden decoration, and for cut flowers in early spring, as they are the only hardy flowers of a scarlet colour at that time ; A. f. graeca is the deepest coloured and dwarfest of the two, but is a poor grower compared with a good strain of A. fulgens. This latter variety increases very quickly if it is lifted every second year, as soon as the leaves decay ; they should be broken up into pieces about the size of marbles, and replanted before the middle of August in the same way as recommended for A. blanda. jJnemone nemorosa Robinsoniana. This is a pale blue form of the ordinary Wood Anemone, and requires similar treatment to A. apennina. Like that variety it may remain for some years in one position, and will then form strong clumps which are much more effective than plants that are often 57 removed ; or if it is necessary to increase the stock, the roots may be broken into pieces about one inch in length every second year. j4nemone nemorosa flore pleno. This is the double white form of the ordinary Wood Anemone. It is easily cultivated on the same plan as recommended for A. blanda ; being white it is not so effective as the others mentioned here, but is useful for corners in shrubbery borders and for planting along woodland walks. j4nemone coronaria, King of Scarlets. This variety flowers later than any of the preceding, and is not always so easy to grow ; where it flourishes it is very useful, as it comes into flower just after A. fulgens is over, and like it is very useful for cutting and for garden decoration. It is subject to attacks of fungus at the roots, and should never remain more than two years in one place. All the above varieties of Anemone are great favourites with pheasants, which eat both the flowers and the roots. It is useless to attempt to grow them where these birds have free access. Anemone hepatica (syn. Hepatica triloba). Under this name are included some of our prettiest spring flowers. They vary in colour from white to red, and blue of various shades, and there are single and double forms of all of them. They succeed best in a light, warm soil, which should also be rich and deep ; a warm climate like Kent or Surrey suits them better than places north of London. They should remain for ten or twelve years undisturbed, and will then form fine clumps and give a great profusion of flowers in early spring ; 58 the variety angulosa does better than triloba in cool districts, and will also grow in a shady position. Aconite (Eranthis hy emails). This is one of the best plants to naturalise under deciduous trees, if there is a moderate amount of good soil bare of other plants. It will spread rapidly from self-sown seeds if they are allowed to fall before the tops are cleared away; sometimes a few flowers will open during the last week in December, and there are generally a good many open before the end of January. Corydalis cava albiflora. This is rather a rare form of Corydalis ; it flowers very early and is always much admired, the flowers are creamy white, and arise from the ground when the leaves commence to grow, which is usually about the last week in March. The root is a large tuber of irregular form and does not like to be removed after it gets established ; it is also very brittle. Chionodoxa Lucille. This forms a splendid mass of blue flowers early in the spring. The finest and strongest spikes are produced in rich soil where it has grown undisturbed for a few years ; it reproduces itself very freely both from self- sown seeds and off-sets, and when planted may be placed thickly in rows two inches deep and nine inches apart. If left to itself it will soon form a solid mass which is not excelled in beauty by any other hardy plant at that time. C. sardensis is a smaller flower than the preceding, and is a darker blue ; it requires similar treatment to C. Lucillae. C. grandiflora is a large pale coloured variety ; it is very pretty but does not thrive like the two preceding varieties. 59 C. j4llenii is very similar to C. grandiflora. Crocus imperati. This is one of the earliest flowers to open, and its pale amethyst coloured flowers are quite dis- tinct from any other plant we have at that season. Like some others of the early flowers they are very sensitive to the wintry weather, and by closing up quickly when it changes they preserve their beauty for a long time ; this plant increases quickly if left undisturbed, and thrives in ordinary garden soil without special attention. Like many other choice plants it has many enemies, rats, mice and pheasants are especially fond of it. Early in August is the best time for planting, and it may remain undisturbed for several years. Crocus, T)utch yellow, and the other varieties. These are among the most welcome of our spring flowers, the abundance of blooms they give with such a little attention makes them doubly valuable to those whose means are limited, and who leave their plants from year to year with- out disturbing them ; like the above variety, rats, mice, and pheasants destroy the roots of these wherever they find them. Pheasants are able to find the roots when dormant and covered with several inches of soil, and will also destroy them wholesale when they are growing ; for this reason they are not included in the list of spring bedding plants, but in some places they might be used for that purpose ; they should be planted as early in the autumn as possible. Dutch Yellow, Purpurea grandiflora, purple, Maximillian, pale blue, and Queen Victoria, white, are some of the best varieties. They may also be grown on early, in pots, under glass, and planted in the garden in sheltered places just before the flowers open; 60 this considerably lengthens their season and makes the garden gay early in February, when other flowers are scarce ; if a spell of cold weather intervenes a few boughs of evergreens may be placed around them. With a little care in this way they will last a long time in good condition. Tulips and Narcissus may also be treated in a similar way. Gentiana acaulls. I hear more complaints of failure with this plant than of any other mentioned in these pages. Its requirements are however very few, viz., planting in a good garden soil and firmly, as soon as flowering is over ; a good treading all over in the spring as soon as severe frost has gone ; and to remain undisturbed for some years after it gets established. Everyone admires it and all can grow it if the above simple requirements are given. As an edging to borders it is not easily surpassed, and to see a piece several yards in length and nine inches wide, full of its beautiful blue flowers will compensate anyone for a little care in its cultiva- tion. It thrives in full sunshine if the soil is deep and it gets a fair supply of moisture, and will also grow in partial shade. Helleborus niger and its varieties (Christmas Rose). Those who have plants of this in a flourishing state should never remove them as they will grow for a lifetime in one place, but if disturbed it is one of the most difficult plants to establish again. It succeeds best in a deep rich soil, and a warm sheltered position that is shaded from the midday sun ; its flowers are always purest if the plants are covered with a frame or handlight when in flower, but they must have plenty of air on favourable occasions or the plants will be weakened. All the varieties are worth growing, but the 61 form known as H. niger angustifolia is the most satisfactory. Iris Pumila and its varieties. These belong to the same section as the large German Iris (I. germanica) but are never more than six inches high, and flower at the end of March. The flowers are very large considering the size of the plant ; this plant — like many of the Iris family — is very easily injured by removal and often refuses to flower for a time if moved to a fresh place. When it gets established in a moist soil it flowers abundantly and there is nothing to equal it at that period of the year ; the sky blue variety is the best, but all are worth growing. No special attention is required beyond weeding the beds, and if they show signs of exhaustion a new plantation should be made as soon as they finish flowering. Iris reticulata. This is a bulbous rooted variety, and requires planting early in August ; it is therefore best grown in clumps in herbaceous or shrubbery borders, or in small beds which will not be too near the eye when the plants die away in the summer. It is not particular as to soil, but is liable to decay in wet autumns and should be lifted at intervals of two or three years, as soon as the leaves turn yellow ; it must then be replanted on a fresh site ; if the soil is heavy an ad- mixture of sand and burnt refuse should be added. This plant should always be placed in a sheltered position owing to the fragile nature of the flowers which appear in February and March ; the variety Krelagii is not so good as the original form. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis). This is one of the best of our spring flowers and a general favourite ; there are various improved varieties of it, such as Berlin, Victoria, 62 and Fortin's Giant, the last being the largest of all. When planting a bed of this the ground should have plenty of farm- yard manure, which must be dug in well below the surface ; planting should take place as soon as the leaves decay ; this plant benefits immensely by good cultivation, but does not like to be often transplanted. Old established beds should have a good dressing of manure from the cowyard every autumn, as soon as the leaves turn yellow ; this must remain on the top all the winter and the residue may be lightly raked off in the Spring before growth commences. Muscari conicum, Heavenly Blue. This is one of the most pleasing of this family, but the white, M.botrytis alba, and M. commutatum, blue, which flower after the first-named is over, are worth growing ; the same system of culture applies to all. They will grow and increase quickly in any ordinary garden soil, and need not be removed for several years ; being small individually they should be planted in good sized patches, putting the bulbs about an inch apart (see page 65). Narcissi. The varieties of these are almost innumerable, although many of the best are at present in private hands ; but one rule applies to nearly all of them, they must be planted early in August in order to get the best results ; I have there- fore included them in this division, as they are not suitable for planting in October and November among other spring flower- ing subjects ; the best way to use them in order to obtain a really artistic effect is to group them in irregular masses of 30 to 60 roots, on a grassy bank, where they can be seen from below on the South or East side ; those varieties should be chosen which flower about the same time and keep erect ; 63 some of the best are N. Emperor, N. obvallaris, N. Empress, N. concolor Autocrat, N. Barrii conspicua, N. telamonius single, N. princeps, N. Glory of Leyden, N. Mm. de Graaf, N. Duchess of Westminster, N. P. R. Barr, N. major, N. Frank Miles. The majority of these will do well for twenty years or more after planting without any attention ; a good sized space, varying in size and shape, should be left between each clump, so that nothing looks formal or arranged in lines when the plants are in flower ; there is one disadvantage that arises from growing them on this system, viz., the grass has to be left without cutting until the leaves of the Narcissi have turned yellow, (unless the whole plot happens to be a very small one, when it may be cut with shears), for this reason it is not advisable to attempt this plan too near the mansion, as the untidiness will eventually condemn the scheme. The above plan is much better than planting the bulbs regularly at six inches apart in large plots under trees, where all come into one mass as is done in several public gardens. Another way of growing them is to plant groups in shrubbery borders, the dark coloured foliage in the background will throw out the pale colour of the flowers very prominently, and they will succeed in such places without frequent removals if the shrubs are prevented from growing over them. All delicate and choice varieties such as N. triandrus, N. cycla- mineus, N. bulbocodium, N. cernuus, &c., must be attended to as their various requirements dictate, and are not fit for the positions described above. Primula cortusoides Sieboldii. This plant is a native of Japan, but is not so hardy here as P. Japonica ; it requires a 64 rather dry position in winter and a good supply of moisture during its season of growth. There are several varieties which differ in form and colour, all of them are interesting and beautiful when in flower ; unlike P. Japonica the top growth of this plant disappears entirely, early in the autumn ; but if undisturbed the roots will remain sound, and growth will re- appear in the spring. Primula Japonica. This is perfectly hardy but will not succeed in a dry position ; plenty of moisture at the roots without a soppy state of the soil, and a rather low semi shaded position suit it best ; it thrives in a peaty soil but this is not absolutely necessary ; there are several different colours of this flower; they look well if mixed together in one bed. It flowers in April and succeeds best if left undisturbed for several years (see page 74). Puschkinia scillioides. This is a very pretty little bulb- ous rooted plant, with white flowers more or less shaded blue; it resembles the Chionodoxas in general appearance, and flowers immediately after them, but is not so widely known ; it requires the same treatment as Chionodoxas (see page 58). Scilla Siberica. This plant is well known for its beautiful blue flowers which come very early in the spring and last a considerable time. I have occasionally used it in beds among Arabis albida which often has a good number of flowers out at the same time, but the Scilla bulbs decay very rapidly if kept out of the ground after August ; it succeeds in any situation where the soil is moderately dry. For general cultiv- ation see Chionodoxa, page 58. 65 Scilla bifolia. This little bulb from the Mediterranean regions usually comes into flower here about the first week in March and its pretty blue starry flowers last about a fortnight. It is hardier than its Siberian relation and flowers before it, but is not so widely known. There are white and pink varieties also, but the latter is not constant here, part of the stock has reverted to the blue form ; for culture see Chionodoxa page 58 Triteleia uniflora, white, and its lilac coloured variety which is generally known as T. u. violacea, are both useful for planting in small beds or as clumps in the herbaceous borders; their flowers are always admired, but the plant should not be touched as it smells strongly of onions when bruised ; these need planting early in August, as growth commences soon after that time ; if the white variety is used as a ground- work for small clumps of Muscari Heavenly Blue it has a very pretty effect, as both flower together. The Muscari should be planted in groups of ten and the Triteleia must be worked in between them irregularly five or six abreast. Tulipa Kaufmanniana. This species being such an early flowering kind, it requires to be planted before the other varieties and species mentioned on page 9 ; it is therefore best to grow it in a place by itself, either in shrubbery borders, or among herbaceous plants where it can be left undisturbed for a few years ; it flowers at Belvoir about the end of March. 66 CHAPTER V. BELVOIR CASTLE AND THE GARDENS. A few general notes on the Castle and the gardens will doubtless be acceptable to many of my readers and will ex- plain to those who have not visited this place some of the reasons why the Spring Flowers do so well here. The first castle of which any record remains was built by Robert de Todeni, the founder of this estate, from whom the present family trace their descent ; he was one of William the Conqueror's chief nobles, and was presented by the King with this site and a large tract of the surrounding country. A representation of the Castle which he built is still preserved on an old seal attached to a charter of property granted to Belvoir Priory, which belongs to the early part of the 1 3th century. This building seems to have remained until the accession of Edward IV., when it was ruined by Lord Hastings in 1461. He had come into possession of it through the final triumph of the House of York over the House of Lancaster, in the Wars of the Roses. The estate continued in the possession of the Hastings' family more than twenty years, when Henry VII. annulled the attainder and restored it to the former owner. 67 The second castle was begun by Thomas, First Earl of Rutland in 1 526, and completed by Henry, the second earl, 1555; a quantity of timber from Belvoir Priory, Croxton Abbey and Thurgarton Priory was used in this building. A picture in needlework, inscribed " Bever Castle 1 632," is still preserved — this was copied from an old map at Grove ; this building was demolished after the Parliamentary Wars, in 1 649, by an order in Council. The third castle was finished in 1 668, under John, eighth Earl of Rutland. A model of this building is still preserved and various prints are still extant. These show the castle occupying the top of a conical shaped hill. Early in the 19th century this state of comparative isolation was consider- ably modified by joining the two hills together at the junction of the four roads, on the S.W. side of the Castle, to enable carriages to drive up to the door. Previous to this being done a public road went between the two hills. This building was demolished at the beginning of the 19th century. The fourth and present building was commenced in the year 1801 by John Henry, Fifth Duke of Rutland, and in 1816, when nearing completion, a large portion was destroyed by fire, but building proceeded again after this until the present structure was completed. The Duchess Elizabeth, wife of the Fifth Duke, was largely responsible for the design, which has been much criticised by various architects owing to the mixture of different styles of architecture. To the unprofessional observer it forms a very beautiful picture when seen from a short distance ; it crowns a very steep hill 68 which rises abruptly some two hundred feet above the surrounding country. A large quantity of very fine timber trees tone down the abruptness of the ascent and counteract some of the stiffness of the building. A point much debated some years ago was the question whether the hill on which the Castle stands is an artificial one ; recent operations have proved it to be quite a natural formation ; near the top on the S.W. side traces of deposition by water agency were found, proving the whole to have been washed by a flood in remote ages. The terraced slopes on the East side have doubtless been artificially formed, and some parts of the top have been considerably modified to suit the various buildings which have been erected there. The large depressions and hillsides are well clothed with forest trees, with an under- growth of evergreens composed chiefly of common laurel and Portugal laurel ; the latter plant does remarkably well here, and in some places has grown into a large tree. The finest specimen was in the Duchess Garden, but it commenced to decay a few years since, and only a portion of the top now remains ; Rhododendrons also flourish well under the forest trees ; the natural soil here contains only a very small pro- portion of lime, otherwise they would soon fail ; they are also immune from the attacks of rabbits and other animals, even in the most severe winters. All the above plants and trees assist considerably in sheltering the tender plants and shrubs. But the charm of the situation at Belvoir is derived mainly from its elevation, which gives extensive views over the surrounding country : and from the undulations of surface immediately near the castle : these give a change of scene at 69 every turn of the path. Such results could not be obtained by any arrangement on the level ground. The elevation of 456 feet above sea level also gives a drier air and considerable immunity from early frosts in autumn and late frosts in spring. At such times the villages near at hand often get four or five degrees more frost than occurs at Belvoir. Meteorological observations taken during the years 1877 to 1906 give the average yearly rainfall as 25 '47 inches ; the average mean temperature for the ten years 1895 to 1904 was 48'01° ; the average temperature of the earth at a depth of 3 feet, for the ten years 1891 to 1900 was 48 '5 5°; and the average sunshine for the ten years, 1894 to 1903, was 1511 hours 55 minutes. THE DUCHESS* GARDEN. This occupies a natural hollow, on the side of a hill, about half a mile from the castle, and is about 8 acres in extent. Its shape is rather like a horse-shoe, with the open part at the bottom of the hill facing south east. It has a fall of one hundred feet from the top to the bottom and is well sheltered on all sides by forest trees. It is chiefly owing to the natural formation, and the shelter of the trees that so many tender shrubs and plants can be grown here. This site was chosen for a garden by the Duchess Elizabeth, wife of the Fifth Duke of Rutland. Her portrait by Hoppner may be seen in the castle; she is painted as if leaning against the column which now stands in the centre of this garden, and is inscribed with some lines dedicating it to her (see plate XIII.) On the right of the column is a large tree of Araucaria imbricata planted in 1 842, this is 59 feet high, 70 and 6j feet in circumference ; unfortunately many of the lower branches have decayed, owing to the dry position in which it is planted ; the best view of it is obtained from the upper walk. On the other side of the steps is a rare tree — Cunning- hamia sinensis. This was probably planted at the same time as the Araucaria, but only measures 37 feet in height, and 3 feet in circumference. A little further to the east is a tree of Taxodium distichum, the deciduous cypress of Florida and other Southern States of America, where it abounds in swampy places on the margins of the lakes ; in the rainy season when the lakes are full it often stands in three feet of water. The roots produce curious growths in the shape of conical logs which rise at some distance from the stem. The cause of these growths has not yet been definitely ascertained — they are very dangerous to boats. Near the cypress is a plant of Daphniphyllum glaucescens, a native of China and Japan. Its leaves are similar in size and shape to the hybrid Rhododendrons ; the flowers are small and greenish yellow ; they are inconspicuous at a short distance. Numerous flower beds surround these trees, and have a very beautiful appearance in April and May when they are clothed with spring flowers. * When daisies pied and violets blue And ladysmocks all silver white, And cuckoo buds of yellow hue Do paint the meadows with delight." The flower beds are represented in plates XIV. and XV. The bell shaped beds immediately opposite the steps • PLATE xnl. II M GARDEN. DUCHESS' i td X H 71 are said to be in the same state as they were when first made for the Duchess ; two plants of Tr achy carpus (Chamaerops) excelsa, a fan leafed palm, growing here, were planted out of six inch flower pots in 1894, and are now 9 feet high, and 9 feet in diameter. This palm is hardier than most people imagine — a little dry bracken packed in the crowns in severe weather is all the protection that is given here. A slab of granite fixed to an old tree close by contains the following lines written by Fanny Kemble during two visits to Belvoir. March 26th, 1842. " Farewell, fair Castle, on thy lordly hill, Firm be thy seat, and proud thy station still : Soft rise the breezes from the vale below ! Bright be the clouds that wander o'er thy brow, O'er the fair lands that form thy broad domain, Short be the winter, long the summers reign. Pilgrim of pleasure to thy stately towers, Fain would I leave among the friendly bowers Some votive offering — and, ere on my way, With many a backward glance, I turn to stray. Bid virtue, strength and honour crown thy walls, Joy, love and peace abide within thy halls : While grateful mirth and noble courtesy, As now, for ever hold their seat in thee : And still upon thy lordly turrets rest The grateful blessing of each parting guest. 72 Two things remain unaltered in this place, Tho' forty years since I came here are told — The lovely aspect of fair nature's face And the fine spirit of kind courteous grace Which still presides here, as it did of old." March 29, 7883. FANNY KEMBLE. At the back is a fine plant of Azara microphylla, an evergreen shrub from Chili. This plant has a curious way of producing its tiny yellow flowers under the leaves in spring. It is strongly scented like Vanilla ; On a warm evening in May it perfumes the air around for several yards. Lower down the bank a tall plant of Staphylea colchica may be seen ; this is 1 6 j feet high and 1 1\ feet across and bears an abundance of white flowers which have a very sweet .perfume ; close by this is a very fine tree of Japanese Maple, — Acer palmatum septemlobum — said to be the largest tree of the kind in this kingdom, it is 1 8^ feet high and 1 7 \ feet across. This is a beautiful object in early spring when the leaves are red, and again in autumn when suffused with golden brown — at this time they have also a plumy appear- ance. Continuing down the same path a large bed of Camellias will be found ; these flower freely in spring, when they form a very pretty picture. The varieties are corallina, alba plena, Lady Hume's Blush, and others. Growing in the same bed is a large specimen of Rhododendron Falconerii ; this has large leaves of a beautiful brown colour underneath and bears large bunches of pale yellow flowers ; it is a native of the Sikkim Himalayas, and is usually grown under glass in this country. PLATE XIV. 73 On the right, a few feet away, another plant of the Japanese Maple may be found, and growing close to this is a nice specimen of the Snowdrop tree — Halesia tetraptera — underneath these there is a large plant of Saxifraga peltata. This plant has very curious leaves, like a shallow funnel poised on a stem. It is a native of California and throws up tall bunches of pink flowers. The leaves change to red and orange shades in the autumn, and the whole of it dies down to the ground later. It likes a moist soil and must have a warm position. On the other side of Rhododendron Falconerii is a young tree of Paulownia imperialis, planted in 1 903 ; this is a native of Japan, and bears large bunches of blue flowers, It has not yet flowered here, but grows very freely. Some very large specimens of Bamboo are growing a little further to the West. The large leaved variety is Arundinaria Japonica, formerly called Bambusa metake; it is a native of Japan and is the hardiest variety here, no cold that we get in this country will kill it, but it must have plenty of water in dry summers, especially when the plants get large. The smaller leaved kind, of which there are two plants near the others, is Arundinaria falcata; these are 14 feet high, and 2 1 feet across, and were planted about 1 882 when this part was added to the garden. This variety is more tender than A. Japonica, and its leaves usually shrivel up very much in cold weather, it may however be planted in any sheltered position where its roots get plenty of moisture ; the finest of the Bamboos grown at Belvoir is Bambusa viride glaucescens, a nice plant of which is growing at the back of the Camellias ; this was planted about 1 892 and is now 1 I 74 feet high and 1 7 feet across the top. Another distinct variety is Arundinaria Simonii, a plant of which is growing just below the steps near the Camellias, this is 1 4 feet high. In favourable seasons this variety throws up very large shoots. A dwarf species, Bambusa tessellata, grows near here on the other side of the path; it has very broad leaves for a bamboo and only attains a height of three feet. A small kind with variegated leaves grows close by — Bambusa Fortunii variegata — it is usually seen growing in greenhouses ; two other varieties grow in the gardens near the castle, Bambusa mitis, a tall variety with narrow leaves; and B. palmata with broad leaves and creeping stems, which only grows 5 feet high here ; both of these are worthy of a place in every garden. Near the cascade are several specimens of the Azalea amoena which have been there for many years and flower profusely. The colour of the flowers is often objected to when seen among other occupants of the conservatory, as it is too hard, and does not blend with anything, but when seen outside among an abundance of green foliage, and sur- rounded by grass, as it is here, it is very pleasing. Azalea balsamaeflora has also survived many years on one of the rockeries, but has not grown freely ; it is a very suitable plant for rockwork in warm sheltered places. A fine bed of Primula Japonica grows near the little pond at the foot of the cascade. This is largely composed of self-sown plants. A few of the dark crimson variety were there in 1898 when my lamented friend H. Selfe Leonard called and kindly promised to send some of the white variety. These were planted among the others, and several shades of PLATE xv. PLATE XVI. ARCHWAY FORMERLY IN THE DUCHESS* GARDEN. 75 colour may now be found. They look so vigorous that visitors sometimes enquire what plants they are, when no flowers are visible. The secret of success is a peaty kind of soil, and some moisture which escapes out of the little pond. Poor Selfe Leonard did not live to see them again. He was a keen lover of hardy plants and knew the varieties well. His sad accident in a lift at Rome will be remembered by many of my readers. The water for the cascade is supplied from a spring on the top of the hill at the back, which was discovered by a water finder with a divining rod — this procedure has been much ridiculed by many. An interesting correspondence took place in " The Times " in January, 1905, and was afterwards commented upon at some length by Professor Barratt. After experimenting on the subject in conjunction with a son of the celebrated water finder, Mr. Mullins, of Colerne, Wilts, I am positively certain it is not an imposture. It is a pity water is not more abundant here, it is the one thing necessary to make this beautiful garden complete, and nothing else will compensate for its scarcity. The geo- logical formation around the place — the lias — is well known as one of the worst for yielding water. The above mentioned leakage from the pond also con- tributes largely to the luxuriance of a colony of Spireas by its side. This consists of S. palmata, red, S. lobata, pink, S. Davidii rose, S. aruncus white, Astilbe Thumbergii white, and A. rivularis, white ; all of them herbaceous plants. A plant of a shrubby Spirea — S. ariaefolia — is also here ; this 76 requires a shady position or its flowers soon lose their whiteness. A very pretty effect may be seen in March at the back of the Cascade, composed of daffodils and Narcissii in irregular patches among the grass. One is able to see them to perfection in this way as the ground rises sharply from the point of view on the walk, and the flowers naturally turn that way towards the sun ; several fine clumps are also distributed about the lower part of the garden and on the rockeries, especially at the south-east corner under the Birch trees, where they are interspersed with blue forget-me-nots which grow naturally among them, the whole effect at this point is very beautiful when they are in flower. The varieties which succeed best here when planted in the grass are Emperor, Empress, the single form of N. telamonius, Queen Bess, Barrii conspicua and sulphureus. They have occupied their present positions for eighteen years without manure or cultural aid of any kind, and look much better when planted thickly in clumps like this than they would do if grown in lines or square beds. A natural archway formed by an oak and a wild cherry or gean, formerly stood at this south end of the garden, near the entrance (see Plate X*OI) ; unfortunately, the oak died and was not considered safe afterwards, as it stood on the pathway. Features such as these can never be replaced if they are lost, and every possible care should be taken to preserve them for future generations. The view from the top of the bank has often been des- cribed as one of the very finest in England. Unfortunately, it 77 is impossible to give an adequate idea of it by a photograph ; the farthest point on the left is Syston House, the residence of Sir J. Thorold, Bart., 8J miles away ; Belton Park with the flag tower, and Harlaxton Manor may also be seen; in the middle distance is the ancient village of Woolsthorpe- by-Belvior with its church tower ; stretching away to the right is a fine lake which extends a mile (see T^late XUII), this was formed by banking up a small stream called the Devon, which comes from Croxton and afterwards joins the Trent at Newark. In the foreground the whole garden is displayed, occupying a sloping bank, the bottom of which is upwards of one hundred feet below the spectator. The greatest beauty is seen in May when the Rhododen- drons are in flower, but a good variety of colour effect is obtained continuously from March to November ; in the centre of the dell shaped space are several tall columnar trees of Cupressus Lawsoniana; these give a welcome variety of form and relieve the flatness of the picture ; large bushes of Acer negundo variegata — The North American Maple — are very conspicuous with their white leaves. In one instance this tree has been planted near to the purple leaved Hazel, and a nice contrast is obtained in spring and early summer. A good plant of Ulmus campestris Rosseelsii gives a patch of gold near the centre, this is a small leaved elm and the best of the golden varieties. Red, dark brown, or orange — according to the time of the year — are furnished by the Japanese Maples mentioned on page 72 ; a good specimen of the purple leaved Plum — Prunus Pissardii — grows near to the Maples and retains its colour through the summer better than they do ; in the autumn 78 the golden setting of oak and elm trees enhances the appear- ance, and in the winter they contribute largely to the warmth of this garden by screening the cold winds from every quarter. Some large trees of the gean or wild cherry (Cerasus avium) may be seen just outside the fence, and until quite recently two very large ones hung over the walk near the north entrance. This tree is very conspicuous from the neigh- bouring hills when in flower ; the foliage is also beautifully coloured in the autumn and gives off a nice perfume. The flower of the double white Cherry is very beautiful, and the tree grows freely ; a good sized specimen about twenty years old grows in the lower part of the garden ; smaller plants of the double Chinese Cherry — Cerasus pseudo cerasus — may also be seen ; this is one of the best of our spring flowering shrubs and will grow into a good sized tree, the variety called J. H. Veitch is the finest. Both have large double flowers of a delicate pink colour. On the east side of the centre — by the side of one of the rockeries — is a fine plant of Cornus mas variegata. This is conspicuous in spring when in flower by reason of its small yellow blossoms which appear before the leaves, and throughout the summer retains its variegated foli- age in good condition ; a few yards below this are some large bushes of the Sweet Gale — Myrica gale — both catkins and leaves of which emit a fragrant perfume when rubbed in the hand. It is well known in Scotland and the Northern parts of England, where it grows wild in damp places and is called Bog Myrtle ; a near relation to this is the Candleberry Myrtle — Myrica cerasifera — a native of North America, a plant is growing in the central part of the garden among some PLATE XVti. 79 other peat loving shrubs, one of which is the pretty Daboecia polifolia, sometimes called St. Dabeoc's Heath, and found wild in Ireland. Several plants of SpireaThunbergii are distributed about this garden. This is a low growing shrub bearing tiny white flowers along its branches in early spring, with narrow leaves of pale green colour. It is very useful on account of its early flower- ing and for its pretty sprays of tinted foliage in the autumn. It must not be confounded with Astilbe Thunbergii which is often called Spirea in error and is a widely different plant. A pretty picture may be seen by standing near the plant of Cornus mas variegata, previously mentioned and looking to- wards the group of Birch trees on the N.E. side of the garden; this is at its best in April and May when the plants on the rockwork are in flower ; on the grass extending naturally from the rockwork is a large bed of Cornish Heath — Erica vagans — which grows vigorously here and is especially valuable for the touch of colour given by its flowers in October, when flowers are usually very scarce. On the rockwork a plant of Olearia Haastii may be seen. This is a very useful flowering shrub because it comes in bloom when most of the other shrubs are over ; several specimens are distributed about the gardens. It is rather tender and was severely cut by the great frost of 1895-96. Another late flowering shrub which must not be omitted is Hydrangea paniculata. This opens a greenish white, gradually gets whiter and then fades to pink and green ; it should be cut back severely after flowering, and requires manure occa- sionally in order to get large bunches of flowers. This is much 80 hardier than Hydrangea hortensis, a beautiful plant which does not survive hard winters here. This latter variety is best grown in large tubs, which can be put into any dry and close building for protection during severe weather. One of the rarest specimens in this garden is a tall plant of Andromeda ovalifolia, an evergreen shrub which bears bunches of flowers like Lily of the Valley in the spring ; there are also several plants of the smaller kinds A. floribunda and A. Japonica, both of which are spring flowering shrubs with similar flowers. These belong to the class of plants which require peat beds in many cases before they can be grown successfully ; a great advantage in this garden and the sur- rounding woods in relation to these plants is the absence of lime in the soil, so-called American or peat loving plants can be grown here without any special preparation of the site. Another rare plant here is Eucryphia pinnatifolia, a native of Chili ; the specimen just below the pergola is probably the finest one in England ; it is 1 3 J feet high and 9 feet in diameter. It bears a profusion of large white flowers in August, which are similar in size and formation to Hypericum calycinum often called Rose of Sharon. The latter is a dwarf plant how- ever, and is valuable for covering woodland banks and semi shaded places where it can run about as it likes. A fine plant of Viburnum plicatum grows just below the above. This bears an enormous quantity of flowers every year (see plate XVIH). It is better than our common guelder rose for many purposes, as it does not grow so rapidly and has very pretty foliage in the autumn, the flowers are also much whiter than the common variety. It is a native of Japan, and PLATE XVIII. VIBURNUM PL1CATUM. 81 is quite hardy here. In the autumn some trees of Amelanchier vulgaris — some- times called Snowy Mespilus — are conspicuous by reason of the rich colouring of their leaves. Various low growing plants are dotted about the turf in a natural manner ; these include Veratrum nigrum, Acanthus spinosus, Gentiana lutea, Spirea Davidii, Astilbe Thunbergii, A. rivularis, Spirea palmata, and others ; various kinds of ferns are also used for this purpose, one plant of the common male fern — Lastrea filix mas — has grown upwards until its stem is 22 inches high, thus forming a miniature tree fern. The rockeries have never been kept in the form usually adopted. Owing to deficiency of labour they have long since become well clothed with various plants, and a distinctive form is obtained by allowing each piece to have a predomin- ating kind of its own ; thus one piece is chiefly clothed with blue Aubrietias, in the spring ; another with Myosotis dissiti- flora, and interspersed amongst these are various other plants and shrubs which give flowers and foliage at other seasons and are able to take care of themselves now they have become established. Azaleas abound in large specimens, especially the decid- uous kinds such as A. altaclarense, the common yellow A. pontica, various shades of A. sinensis formerly called mollis, A. coccinea speciosa, and others. These are perhaps the best of all the spring flowering shrubs, many of them are sweet- scented, they are extremely floriferous and include a large number of delicate shades of colour. 82 Many of the Rhododendrons are unnamed seedlings raised by the late Mr. Noble, of Bagshot, who raised R. Nobleanum, of which several plants may be found here. This is the earliest flowering kind we have ; it often commences in December; R. altaclarense comes in flower early in March, R. praecox is also a valuable kind for that date, and R. Early Gem is very similar to R. Praecox but dwarfer and has smaller flowers. All of these early flowering kinds should be planted in sheltered nooks where they will get some protection from overhanging trees, otherwise one night's frost will destroy all their beauty ; R. caucasicum pictum and R. Cunningham's White come into flower at the end of March or early in April according to the earliness of the season or otherwise ; these are quickly followed by an endless variety which enter- prising hybridists have raised from seeds. R. concessum, R. Blandyanum, R. fastuosum plenum, R. Everstianum, R. Lady Eleanor Cathcart, and R. The Queen, are some of the best of the hybrids here ; outside in the wood southward are some very fine specimens of R. campanulatum, which flowers early and is a charming plant, the blossoms vary from white to pale pink ; they are very large and sweet scented, the plant is also interesting through the winter months owing to the golden brown pubescence on the underside of the leaves. This is a native of the Himalayan mountains : R. Thomsonii grows in the centre of the garden on the rockery ; it has rounded glaucous leaves and very beautiful dark crimson flowers, which a lady once took to be Lapageria blooms, they are certainly similar in size and form ; the smaller species R. hirsutum and R. ferrugineum and the hybrid R. Wilsonianum 83 must not be omitted ; these are smaller in growth and flower later and are sometimes called Alpine Roses by that strange perversity of speaking, which must always attach a common name to every plant, and therefore cause endless confusion, as in this instance ; few plants are more unlike a rose in appear- ance. One of the most striking plants here in October is a specimen of Parottia Persica which grows near the horizon- tal oak tree. It was planted in 1895, and is now 14J feet high ; in the summer it so closely resembles a Beech tree that most people would say at once it was one of that kind, but in the autumn the colours of the leaves are a beautiful mixture of bright yellow, orange, and red in various shades. It is rather tender and should always be planted in a sheltered position if north of London. The curious old Oak behind this plant is a picturesque specimen, as the whole tree grows in a horizontal position. No reason can be given for this ; the late Duke of Rutland told me he could not remember it being in any other form. A fine plant of Styrax serrulata virgata, sometimes called S. Japonica grows close to the above. This has grown very quickly since it was placed in this position in 1895. At that time it was about ten years old, and almost crippled through being planted too near other trees. It should be grown by everyone who has a sheltered garden ; the flowers are white, and hang thickly under the branches in a most fascinating way. It is 23 feet high. Two plants of Eucalyptus coccifera are growing in this garden, and are now 25 feet high. They were planted in 84 1 899, and appear to be quite hardy. The following varie- ties have also been tried and have succumbed to frost eventually, although some of them survived mild winters and attained considerable size : — E. amygdalina, E. citriodora, E. coriacea, E. cordata, E. crebra, E. eulophylla, E. globulus, E. Gunnii, E. Lehmannii, E. longifolius, E. marginata, E resinifera, E. Resdonii, E. robusta, E. Siebergii, E. ur- nigera, and E. viminalis ; another variety E. ficifolia has not yet had a fair trial, this bears very pretty red flowers, and is said to be one of the hardiest varieties. Of the above seventeen varieties E. globulus made the largest and finest plants. They survived several winters with more or less damage, although the roots were protected, but the winter of 1899-1900 killed them after they had reached a height of twelve feet ; we had 22° of frost on February 8th, and a great deal of snow at intervals, also other severe frosts during that winter. Olearia illicifolia, sometimes called O. dentata is a rare plant of which two specimens are included here. It is not so hardy as O. Haastii mentioned on page 79, several plants of which are growing in various parts of the gardens, and it bears larger flowers than that variety, but does not produce them so freely. Both are natives of New Zealand. Heaths of various kinds do well here, a bush of Erica stricta at the base of the centre rockery is six feet high and eight feet across ; a little to the east of this a large bed of the Cornish heath — Erica vagans — grows and flowers very freely. Interspersed among this are several plants of E. mediterranea, an upright growing kind, also some plants of E. vulgaris PLATE XIX. PLATE XX. PLATE XXI. • PLATE XXII. 85 Alportii ; close by on the rockwork the dwarf E. carnea and its white variety E. carnea alba are growing ; these flower very early, and in mild winters they commence soon after Christmas. Remarks on their culture will be found on page 18. One of the best flowering shrubs is Philadelphus grandi- florus. This bears very large white flowers, which are not so strongly scented as the ordinary variety — P. coronarius — it also flowers later than that kind ; another excellent variety is P. Gordonianus which is later still, it should be grown in rich ground where it will make strong growth, and is then a most beautiful object when in bloom. P. microphyllus is a dwarf kind about two feet high, with tiny flowers that are lemon scented, this is a useful shrub for large rockeries. A bed of Cistuses near the north gateway contains seedlings of C. creticus, with rose-coloured flowers, raised from seed sent from La Mortola by the late Sir T. H anbury, who cultivated such a fine collection of plants there ; the white variety is C. laurifolius, also from La Mortola, a better kind than this is C. ladaniferus which has white flowers with dark chocolate markings, C. florentinus and C. villosus grow on the bank at the other end of the pergola. Other interesting plants and shrubs in this garden com- prise : — Salix herbacea, Retinospora filicoides, Cupressus filifera, Cercis siliquastrum, Phlomis fruticosus, Rodger sia podophylla, Myrhhis odorata, Gunnera scabra, Gunnera manicata, and many others too numerous to mention. A fine piece of rustic woodwork forms the front of the summer-house (see plate XIII). 86 The walk through this garden continues on the west for some distance and then encircling the hills comes back near to the Castle. Many interesting shrubs and trees abound along its course, among which the Calif ornian Redwood (Taxodium sempervirens) should be especially noted. The finest specimen is some distance below the main path among various Junipers and Cypresses ; it is 62 feet high and 1 1 J feet in circumference. Several picturesque summer-houses are situated at intervals along this walk, a nice water garden — Frog Hollow — with rustic bridges and winding paths is half-way round, and many varieties of conifers are growing near to it. THE CASTLE FLOWER GARDEN. This is the name usually given to the triangular piece of ground by the side of the carriage drive, near the Castle. Considerable alterations have been made there since these notes- were first written, and plates VII, VIII, XIX — XXII represent it as it formerly was ; in the centre is a fine plant of Magnolia umbrella, which has greenish white flowers early in the summer and very fine foliage later, it is a native of North America. A fine tree of Abies pectinata, one of the silver Firs, is growing here, it is 98 feet high, and 1 2j feet in circumference ; another notable specimen is the large copper-coloured Beech ; the view over the dell from near the summer-house is very fine (see plate XXIII). The spring flowers were always a few days later here than in the Duchess Garden, owing to the greater elevation and exposure ; the belt of evergreen shrubs around and the large Evergreen Oaks — Quercus ilex — gave considerable shelter in PLATE XXllt. 87 this high position and allowed the beds to be raised above the ground level, a much better effect was thus obtained ; this would not have been possible in an open situ- ation, the majority of the spring flowers being very impatient of dry weather and keen March winds. It would also have looked ugly in an exposed place. Shelter of this kind is not beneficial to the ordinary summer bedding plants, such for instance as Geraniums, Ageratum, Lobelia and others. These are liable to develop leaves instead of flowers under such treatment. The figure of an animal, in stone, in this garden (see 'Plate XI) was brought from India and presented to a former Duke of Rutland. The statue representing winter shown on "Plate XXII belongs to the set which is seen below the bank in the Statuary Garden (see Plate XXIII). They were carved by Caius Gabriel Gibber in 1 680. The agreement made between him and John, 8th Earl of Rutland is still preserved in the Castle, and stipulates that the statues should be set up in the garden for the sum of £35 each, the Earl to find the said Gibber and his two workmen "diett and lodging at Bellvoyer whilest he workes upon the said statues." The figures, com- mencing nearest the Castle, represent Juno, Ceres, Flora, Bacchus, Pomona and Diana. They formerly stood nearer to the Castle, where the broad walk is now, and were removed by Mr. Challis who was head gardener here for a short time and laid out this garden in 1847. The group of Palms — Trachycarpus excelsa — in the centre, but shown on the right in 'Plate XXIV was planted in 1 899, on August 1 1 th ; they were sent direct from Italy and at that time were nine feet high. Protection has been given in severe weather by fastening mats around them. The tallest of the Spruce Firs in the wood beyond is 1 00 feet high ; in the end of the eighteenth or early in the nine- teenth century a public road ran through this dell from Redmile, and was diverted when the two hills were joined together, and a carriage way made up to the Castle. A walk to the eastward from the Statuary Garden con- tinues for some distance among the trees on the south side of the Castle. These include some very fine specimens of the Scotch Fir, one of which is 77 feet high and 10J feet in circumference ; below the bank on the right a rare Bamboo — B. mitis — is growing, B. palmata and B. nigra may be found farther on ; B. mitis is said to grow 50 feet high in Japan. Some young plants of rare Himalayan Rhododendrons have lately been planted under the trees on the left, and are growing well ; also Embothrium coccineum, a very beautiful shrub from Chili, promises to do well here. On the left a fine group of Berberis Darwinii gives a glowing mass of golden flowers in the spring, and is followed closely by B. stenophylla which is not so dense growing and is paler in colour, this is a hybrid between B. Darwinii and B. buxifolia and is a hardier kind ; B. Darwinii is a native of Southern Chili, and was introduced in 1 849 ; it is one of the best of our flowering shrubs, but is sometimes injured by frost in severe winters. An upright growing shrub with small leaves near the above is Leptospermum scoparium fastigatum. It was brought PLATE XXIV. 89 from New Zealand by Mr. Allen, and is called "Manuka" out there. It is impatient of much frost ; the leaves are sweet- scented and it bears numerous pretty white flowers about a quarter of an inch across. It was planted in 1896. Farther to the east on the same side is a fine tree of Arbutus andrachne. It is remarkable for the habit of shed- ding its bark every year, and for its beautiful white flowers in spring, which resemble large bunches of Lily of the Valley. Close to this is a very tall column of Ivy, 54 feet high. This is the stem of a Scotch Fir which lost its head in a severe gale in 1 894. Some Camellias grow near here, but do not succeed so well as those in the Duchess garden. On the same side is a plant of the Japanese Medlar — Eriobotrya Japonica. This was brought home from France by the late Duke about 1 892. It receives some protection in winter, and has not yet flowered, the fruit grows in bunches and resembles an Apricot ; it requires to be grown under glass in order to get fruit, and being a large growing tree it is not worth the space it takes indoors. The turning on the left ascends the hill towards the Castle. On the right near the top is a very fine plant of Choisya ternata which is 14 feet across and six feet high. This is a native of Mexico, but is seldom injured in any way by frost. It bears a profusion of white, sweet-scented flowers in early summer ; opposite this is a good sized plant of the Judas tree — Cercis siliquastrum — which is very pretty in May with purple flowers and tinted leaves. This is generally considered to be the kind of tree on which Judas finished his life. A small plant on the wall just above this spot bears 90 very curious seed pods. In a bed to the right of the large Yew trees is a nice plant of Erica arborea. This is sweetly scented when in flower, and is the shrub from which briar-root pipes are made, the word briar being a corruption of the French Bruyere, referring to the district where they are made. It was brought from France by John James Robert the VII Duke, about 1 892. On this bank farther west is a tall tree of Cupressus Lawsoniana, planted by His Majesty King Edward VII in 1866. It is now 44 feet high. A smaller tree of Cupressus Nootkatensis, on the right, was planted by H.R.H. Princess Louise in 1894. A young Scotch Fir lower down the bank was planted by John James Robert, VII Duke of Rutland, in 1901, in memory of his nephew, Mr. Fitzalan Manners, who died on his way out to the South African War. The terrace walls above this part have many very inter- esting plants growing on them. On the lowest is a fine plant of the blue- flowered Abutilon vitaefolium, sent by the late E. J. Lowe of Shirenewton Hall. It flowers in most years, but sometimes gets damaged in winter by severe frost. It was planted in 1896. On the left of this is a good plant of Prunus triloba — the double pink Japanese Plum. This flowers early in the year before the leaves appear, and is usually quite full of its beautiful flowers. It requires a warm place if grown outside in this country. On the left of this is a very beautiful crimson flowering shrub — Berberidopsis corallina ; farther on to the right is a plant of the single yellow Bank- sian Rose, kindly sent by the late Sir Thomas H anbury, PLATE xxv 91 from his beautiful garden at Ventimiglia. It has a prettier flower than the double variety. Farther on, a shrub with very narrow leaves and bunches of tiny white sweet-scented flowers is Ozothamnus rosemarinifolius ; my kind friend, the late F. W. Burbidge, of Dublin Botanic Gardens, once showed me a vase of dried branches of this plant which had kept well. Clerodendron foetidum grows near the above, it is too dwarf to train on a wall, usually, but requires protection in winter. This plant is remarkable for its very sweet purple- coloured flowers, which are borne in terminal bunches, and usually come rather late in the autumn ; the leaves and other parts have an unpleasant odour when rubbed : it is a native of China and is quite distinct in appear- ance from the Clerodendrons usually seen in hothouses. Another species of Clerodendron called trichotomum grows near the summer-house, in the Duchess Garden, and is also sweetly- scented, but only opens its flowers in our warmest autumns ; it is a native of Japan. Buddleia variabilis has a very distinct appearance. It bears spikes of purple coloured flowers, which harmonise well with the dull green of the leaves ; it is a native of China. Close by is another purple coloured plant, Indigofera Gerrardiana, it has small pea-shaped flowers, richly marked with brown ; it is nearly related to the plant from which indigo is obtained. Farther on is a nice plant of a small- leaved climber with very fine branches ; this is Muehlenbeckia complexa, a native of New Zealand, and bears tiny white flowers which are followed by small pearly fruits in clusters. This requires a 92 warm wall or other protection in winter. It was severely cut by the hard frost in February 1895. From the cluster of old Yew trees at the corner, near the gymnasium, the view shown on ^Plate XX U may be seen. The old building in the foreground has been used for stables for many years, but was occupied as barracks by the soldiers in the time of Cromwell. The circular erection is a later addition used for exercising horses in frosty weather. Beyond these buildings is a fine stretch of grass land in the county of Lincolnshire. Many churches, farms and villages may be distinguished when the air is clear, and on the best days Lincoln Cathedral can be plainly seen ; it is twenty- seven miles distant. On the next wall above, at the west end, a fine plant of Azara microphylla grows. This has a more healthy appear- ance than the plants in the Duchess Garden (see page 72) ; several plants of Magnolia conspicua Soulangeana grow along this wall. One of them is shown in flower on Plate XXI} I. They flower abundantly in spring before the leaves appear, and are sweetly scented. The plant is quite hardy ; large trees of it in the bush form are sometimes seen in the southern counties. The flowers are sometimes damaged by frost, and the shelter of a wall is always desirable for this plant north of London. Magnolia grandiflora also flowers here. It is a native of North America and bears enormous white flowers which are very sweetly scented. It is the finest of all the Magnolias, and has nice glossy green leaves which remain thoughout the winter. There is a variety of this which never flowers ; two plants have grown on this wall, not far from the 93 others for many years, but certainly have not flowered during the last fifteen years. They are easily distinguished by the excessive glossiness of the leaves on the upper side, the under side has not so much russett as the good variety. Near to the Azara is a fine plant of the Poison Vine — Rhus toxicodendron — from North America. This has a similar appearance to the Virginian Creeper, but is quite a distinct plant. Its leaves turn to very beautiful shades of red and yellow in the autumn — it is the richest coloured autumn plant we have. In some persons it causes an irritation of the skin similar to eczema. I found it had been grown here over 30 years without anyone knowing what it was, or suffering from its poisonous properties, nevertheless, it is advisable to be very careful when handling this plant, especially if the person is hot at the time. Some, very old plants of Chimonanthus fragrans are established along these walls. This is a general favourite in early spring, its flowers being so pleasantly scented ; in mild autumns some of them will open in November — formerly it was called Calycanthus praecox. A larger species, both in leaves and flowers, is on the lowest wall. This is Calycanthus occidentalis — its flowers, which appear in the summer, smell strongly of apples. Another variety, C. floridus, has clove- scented flowers. Vitis purpurea grows near the sundial. It is very pretty in autumn when its leaves turn a dark claret colour, but in the early part of the summer it is very like an ordinary grape vine. Near to this a fine plant of Olearia stellulata lived for several years, but finally succumbed in the cold wet spring of 94 1 908 ; it is the best of the Olearias and is more tender than O. dentata and O. Haastii. A large bush of double white Lilac (Madame Lemoine) grows close by the sundial. This was planted in 1895, and is a telling object when in flower; double varieties last in flower longer than the single ones. Other good kinds are Alphonse Lavallee, dark lilac ; Belle de Nancy and Maxime Cornu. The next Terrace above is called the flower garden terrace and at one time was the only place near the Castle where flowers were grown. It is still kept in a plain old- fashioned style (see plate XXVII.) At the east end a large plant of Photinia serrulata grows against the wall, it belongs to the same family as the hawthorn. Its flowers, which are seldom seen here, are very similar to the May, but are much larger, it is chiefly noted for the beautiful bronzy red colour of the young leaves, and is a native of Japan and China ; the tree is over 20 feet high. Clematis graveolens syn C. orientalis, deserves mention here. It has yellow flowers and very pretty woolly heads of seeds. Pyrus Mauleii is a useful flowering shrub early in the spring — its flowers are smaller and brighter than P. Japonica and it does not grow so freely. A large plant of Forsythia suspensa on this wall is very beautiful when in flower. To grow this plant in the best way it should be pruned back immediately after flowering and then be encouraged to grow freely. I saw some nice speci- mens of this in the Central Park, New York, growing in a bush form and hanging over large rocks. Magnolia Lennei grows near to this, it has purple flowers in May, which are PLATE XXVI PLATE XXVIJ. 95 larger than M. Soulangeana, and bears pods of seeds in autumn which are very curious and pretty. Fabiana im- bricata, a small heath like plant, is here a beautiful thing when its pearly white blossoms are open. Although it resembles a heath so closely it has nothing to do with those plants but belongs to the same family as the potatoe, and is a very curious instance of a plant imitating those of a widely different class. Lonicera fragrantissima is represented by several large specimens. It is the earliest to flower among the honeysuckles, in mild seasons a few blooms will be out at Christmas or soon after. For this reason it should be planted in a warm position, although the plant itself is not easily injured by frost. Punica granatum, the pomegranate tree, has grown on the wall for many years, and flowers every summer. I have only seen a fruit on it once — in 1 904 ; it did not come to maturity. The flowers are bright scarlet and vary in form. The plant was much injured by the severe frost of 1895, but quickly recovered. A large plant of the Banksian Rose grows on this wall. It measures 23 feet high and 40 feet wide at the top. It is the double yellow variety and flowers very freely. Other varieties of this rose are the small double white, the large double white called Fortunii, and the single yellow mentioned on page 9 1 . They are natives of China and have no thorns. Another rose which has scarcely any thorns has been grown here, but failed to flower — Rosa laevigata syn. R. sinica ; this is a native of the Southern States of America where it is called the Cherokee Rose, and is frequently used for making hedges round dwelling houses, as it grows very thickly. It bears very large single white flowers with yellow stamens, and is extremely beautiful when seen in flower over there. Belvoir has proved too cold for it outside. A very large plant of Fuchsia Riccartonii has survived the winter in this corner for many years, and near to it is a plant of Holboellia latifola (Stauntonia) which has not flowered, although it has grown here several years — it has very curious twisted stems. In the early summer some large plants of white roses are full of flowers on these walls and look well — the variety is Leopoldine d'Orleans, an old kind, which is much better than the one usually grown as a white climber, viz., Aimee Vibert. There is another terrace at the back of this high wall, which is only about three feet below the top. Very few plants are grown there — it is gravelled, and used as a prom- enade. This is 460 feet above the sea level. The view as seen from here on a clear day is magnificent and very ex- tensive. The date when these terrace gardens were made is uncertain — the present walls appear to belong to the same period as the castle, 1801 to 1820. " Hanging gardens " at Belvoir castle are referred to in some verses written in 1 679, and were probably situated where the present terrace gardens are now. From the broad terrace on the N.E. side of the Castle, a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained in clear weather. A good specimen of Cedrus deodara grows on the slopes just below ; this is a native of the Western Himalayas and has sometimes been recommended for planting as a timber tree, it suffers here in severe frosts and would PLATE XXVIII. THE DAIRY AVENUE. 97 not prove so profitable as the larch. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. This is situated at the foot of the hill on the S.E. side of the Castle. A good way to reach it from the terraces on the south of the castle is to take the walk which goes sideways down the hill to the S.W., and then proceed down the steps to the dairy. This leads to the end of the Avenue shown on plate XX VI 1 1., which is nearly a quarter of a mile long ; it con- tains some fine specimen conifers near the centre. The cedars of Lebanon are 1 1 1 years old, these, with many others on the estate were raised from seed brought from Dublin by John Henry, the fifth Duke. The four specimens here have each a different appearance from the others — the tallest one is 90^ feet high and 1 1 feet in circumference of stem at 3 feet above the ground ; this is the tree on the south-west of the centre. The Cedrus deodara is 79 feet high and 6 feet round the stem. A fine plant of Araucaria imbricata has branches to the ground, it is 47 J feet high, and 4j feet round and is the best specimen on the estate. This tree is growing in a cold deep clay where it gets plenty of moisture at the roots and is sheltered from cold wind — it is the male variety. The one nearest the dairy on the north side of the walk is a female which bears several cones in some years, and young plants have been raised from its seeds. Farther on to the east some very tall lime trees are growing, the tallest, at the east end on the north side of the walk is 92 feet high and 7 feet round. The Ash tree nearly opposite is 1 1 2 feet high and 1 0 feet in circumference. 98 A fine group of Cedars of Lebanon are close by the principal entrance to the kitchen garden. It is seldom this tree is found with such long straight stems ; probably the great depth of soil here is one reason for this unusual growth, and being raised from seed here they would not suffer by transplanting, so much as those carried long distances. The tree on the N.W. is 774 feet high and 7j feet in cir- cumference. The Kitchen Garden was laid out in 1816. Some of the soil was carted here from the old garden, which occupied the site of the present orchard between the stables and the Peacock Inn. Andrew Lack was head gardener here at that time. The walls enclose nearly seven acres of ground, they are well furnished with fruit trees on both sides; the walks are arranged in an excellent way, so that the workmen can always get to their work without using the principal paths ; the latter are thus kept clear and free from soil, a necessary precaution here on this heavy clay. The situation is cold and wet. Owing chiefly to the clay soil it is by no means an ideal place for a kitchen garden, as everything is so late in coming into use in the spring and early summer. A fine view of the Castle may be seen from the East entrance (see plate XXIX) . The soil has improved very much during the last twelve years. I find burnt refuse to be one of the best things to accomplish this. After dressing the first spit all over with it, the second spit has been systematically done, and a liberal supply of manure has also been added to it. By doing a portion each winter we have gone over the whole thoroughly in a few years and are amply repaid by the improved growth and PLATE XXIX. EAST ENTRANCE TO THE KITCHEN GARDEN. PLATE XXX, 99 yield of the various crops. Pears succeed here remarkably well on the walls and a few kinds bear well as standards and as pyramid trees. 1 20 varieties are grown, the best of which are as follows : Bergamotte d'Esperen "Beurre d'Amanlis Beurre d'Anjou "Beurre du Buisson Beurre de Jonghe Beurre Diel Beurre Hardy Beurre Superfin British Queen "Brockworth Park "Conference Crassanne "Dana's Hovey Delices d'Hardenpont Doyenne d'Alen^on * Doyenne du Cornice .-Dr. Hogg Duchesse de Bordeaux *Dunmore Easter Beurre Emile d'Heyst Thompsons Fondante d'Automne Forelle *Glou Morceau Golden Russet Hacons Incomparable Huyshe's Victoria "Jargonelle Josephine de Malines Knight's Monarch i* Louise Bonne of Jersey Magnate Marguerite Marillat Marie Guisse Marie Louise Nee plus Meuris Nouvelle Fulvie "Olivier des Serres Pitmaston Duchess Passe Colmar St. Luke "St. Stephen t*Welbeck Bergamot t" Williams Bon Chretien Winter Nelis "Triomphe de Vienne Van Mons Leon le Clerc "Vicomte Spoelburgh "succeed as pyramids. I succeed as standards. STEWING VARIETIES. t*Catillac Grosse Calebasse *Bellissime d'Hiver ^Orchard Baker 100 Apples are also grown extensively both as large standard trees in orchards and dwarf trees on the Paradise stock, the collection numbers 160 varieties exclusive of seedlings, many of which are on trial. Exhibits from these as also from the Pear trees have gained many medals from the Royal Horticultural Society. A large supply is required for the Castle during the season and several of the varieties keep in good condition until May and June, both for dessert and for cooking pur- poses. The best varieties in the collection are the following: Alfriston Allington Pippin Annie Elizabeth Barnack Beauty Baumanns Red Reinette Beauty of Bath Belle de Boskoop Belle Pontoise Bess Pool Bismark Blenheim Orange Bramley's Seedling Broad Eye Pippin Castle Major Charles Ross Cox's Orange Pippin Dewdney's Seedling syn Baron Wolseley Duchess' Favourite Duke of Gloucester Duke of Devonshire Emperor Alexander Eve's Apple French Crab Frogmore Prolific Gascoigne's Seedling Golden Noble Golden Pippin (Summer) Hormead's Pearmain Hambling's Seedling Hoary Morning James Grieve Jenkinson's Seedling King of Pippins Lane's Prince Albert Langley Pippin Lincolnshire Holland Pippin Lord Derby Lord Suffield Maltster Mannington's Pearmain Margil Mere de Menage Mr. Gladstone Newton Wonder Northern Greening 101 PeasgoocTs Nonsuch Spencer's Favourite Pine Apple The Queen Pott's Seedling Toker's Incomparable Reinette du Caux Tower of Glamis Ribston Pippin Thomas Rivers Rosemary Russett Warner's King Russian Transparent Wealthy Scarlet Nonpariel Wellington Stamford Pippin White Paradise Stirling Castle Winter Hawthornden St. Edmund's Pippin Worcester Pearmain Stone's Pippin Wyken Pippin The quantity of ground allotted to vegetable culture is 2 1 acres, this gives a supply of all kinds that are in season for the family and a large number of servants and other persons throughout the year; the total number when the family is in residence often amounts to 1 30 persons. All the late potatoes are grown at the Home Farm; the supply of plants for the Spring bedding is grown here, as detailed on page 8, and is removed to the flower gardens in October. A full view of the Kitchen Garden is given on plate XXX. This is taken from the north side and extends to Croxton Church. The turretted gateways and walls give a more ornamental appearance than is usually found in Kitchen Gardens and the spacious walks allow a carriage and pair to drive anywhere. A fine collection of herbaceous plants is grown in the division close to the chief entrance. This plot was probably intended for a fruit garden originally. A strawberry bed, also a few gooseberry bushes remained until 1894 ; large 102 quantities of cut flowers are obtained here for the supply of the Castle and the plot is very gay with a varied collection of flowers all through the summer and autumn. A full list of the plants grown here would occupy too much space and weary the reader, some of the best are as follows : Crinum Powelli, Edelweiss (Gnaphalium leontopodium), Heliotropium anchusaefolium, Epilobium latifolium, E. rose- marinifolium, E. Dodonei, Rosa macrocarpa, Cytissus albus, Spartium junceum, Danae laurus syn Ruscus racemosus, Anemone alpina and its variety A. a. sulphurea, A. blanda in several varieties, A. Robinsoniana, A. fulgens in large quantities; this variety does remarkably well on the cool, moist soil, and is found very useful for furnishing cut flowers ; a large collection of Tulips is also very useful for cutting from ; 140 varieties of Daffodils and Narcissii and a large number of unnamed seedlings are grown ; Amaryllis belladonna, Romneya Coulterii, Asclepias cornuti, Iris tect- orum, I. palida Dalmatica and many other herbaceous and bulbous Irises ; Origanum dictamnus, Phygelia capensis, Delphinium Brunonianum, musk scented ; D. Cashmerianum, D. formosum and many other varieties ; Tropaeolum poly- phyllum, Lobelia cardinalis Queen Victoria, Salvia Patens, /Ethionema saxatalis, Helichrysum arenarium ; a large collect- ion of Paeonies, Ferula gigantea, Gentiana acaulis in quantity, Gentiana verna, Astromoeria, Chilense, A. aurantiaca, A. psittacina, Corydalis cava albiflora, Commelina coelestis, Cam- panula lactiflora, C. latifolia, C.carpatica pallida, C. mirabilis, C. glomerata, and many other Campanulas ; Allium roseum, A. sphaerocephalum, A. Karataviense, Aloysia citriodora ; PLATE XXXI. PLATE XXXII. 103 Lithospermum prostratum ; Sedum pulchellum ; Senecio tanguticus ; Polygonum amplexicaule ; Meconopsis integri- folia, M. racemosa ; and many other kinds. The forcing houses are not so extensive as those usually found on large estates at the present day, but a good supply of fruit and flowers is obtained ; the plant houses are grouped together on the east side of the garden outside, and are chiefly used to supply flowers and plants for the winter season. INDEX. Abies pectinata ... 86 Abutilon vitaefolium ... 90 Acanthus spinosus ... -81 Acer palmatum atropur- pureum ... 7 ,, palmatum septem- lobum ... 7, 72 ,, negundo variegata 77 Aconite, winter ...54, 58 Alyssum saxatilenana 21,31 ,43,52 Amelanchier Canadensis 7 vulgaris ... 81 Amygdalus nanus ... 7 Andromeda florabunda ... 80 Japonica ... 80 ,, ovalifolia ... 80 Anemone apennina ... 56 „ blanda ... 54 „ „ Cypriana 55 „ ,, Scythinica 55 King ... 57 ... 56 „ „ graeca ... 56 „ hepatica 54, 57 „ „ angulosa 54, 57 „ nemorosa flore pleno ... 57 Anemone nemorosa Rob- insoniana ... 56 coronana, of Scarlets fulgens Apples, list of sorts ... 100 Arabisalbida 8, 15,20 „ alpinaflorepleno!8,37,42 46,52 Araucaria imbricata 69, 97 Arbutus andrachne ... 89 Arundinaria falcata ... 73 Japonica ... 73 ,, Simonii ... 74 Ash tree, tall specimen ... 97 Astilbe rivularis ... 75, 81 „ Thunbergii 75,79,81 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca 42, 44 48,49,50,51 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Dr. Mules ... 44 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Fire King ... 8 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Hendersonii 43,44,50 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Leichtlinii ... 44,47 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Mcerheimii ... 44 Aubrietia deltoidea graeca variegata ... 44, 45 ,, for stock plants 1 7 ,, from seeds ... 18 „ propagation by division ... 17 INDEX- Aubrietia, propagation by seed ... 18 Auriculas... 21,27,36,45 Azalea altaclarense ... 81 ,, amosna •«• 74 balsamaeflora ... 74 ,, coccinea speciosa 81 ,, mollis ... 81 ,. pontica ... 81 ,, sinense ••• 81 Azara microphylla 72, 92 Bambusa Fortunii variegata ,, metake ... mitis 74 .. 73 74, 88 •• 88 74, 88 .. 74 „ ngra ,, palmata tessellata ... viride glaucescens 73 Banksian Rose, yellow, single ... 91 „ Rose, yellow, double 91,95 „ Rose, white, Fortunii ... 96 ,, Rose, white, small ... 96 Belvoir Castle ... 66 „ Fire at ... 67 Meteoro- logical observations 69 Berberidopsis corallina ... 90 Berberis buxifolia ... 89 ,, Darwinii ...7,89 Japonica ... 7 continued. Berberis stenophylla ...7, 88 Bog Myrtle ... 78 Bruyere ... ... 90 Buddleia variabilis ... 91 Bulbs used for spring bed- ding, list of ... 9 Burbidge, Mr. F. W. ... 91 Calycanthus floridus ... 93 ,, occidentalis 93 ,, praecox ... 93 Camellias, varieties of ... 72 Candleberry Myrtle ... 78 Carex riparia variegata ... 21 Cascade ... ... 75 Cedars of Lebanon ... 97 Cedrus deodara ... 96 „ Libani ... 97 Cerasus avium ... 78 ,, pseudo cerasus ... 78 „ J. H. Veitch ... 78 Cercis siliquastrum 85, 89 Challis, Mr. ... 87 Chamaerops excelsa ... 71 Cherokee Rose ... 96 Cherry, Chinese •<•• 78 " ,, double white •• 78 J. H. Veitch ... 78 Chimonanthus fragrans ... 93 Chionodoxa Allenii ... 59 grandiflora ... 58 ,, Lucillce ... 58 ,, sardensis ... 58 Choisya ternata ... 89 INDEX Gibber, Caius Gabriel ... 87 Cistus creticus ... 85 ,, florentinus ... 85 „ ladaniferus ... 85 „ laurifolius ... 85 villosus ... 85 Clematis graveolens ... 94 ,, orientalis ... 94 Clerodendron foetidum ... 91 „ trichotomum 91 Convallaria majalis ... 62 Cornish Heath ... 85 Cornus mas variegata ...7, 78 ,, Spathii ... 7 Coronilla emerus ... 7 Corydalis cava albiflora 54, 58 Corylus avellana purpurea 7 Crocuses ... 27,52.54,59 Crocus imperati ... 59 Cromwell ... ... 92 Crown Imperial, variegated 45 Cunninghamia sinensis ... 70 Cupressus filifera ... 85 „ Lawsoniana, 77 „ planted by H.M. King Edward VII. 90 ,, Lawsoniana lutea 8 „ Nootkatensis, planted by H.R.H. Princess Louise ... 90 Cytissus albus ... 7 ,, Andreanus ... 7 ,, praecox ... 7 Dabcecia polifolia ... 79 continued. Daisy, Alice 15,21,44,49 „ double pink 21,31,44 „ red 21, 31, 44, 46 47,50 „ white 2 1,3 1,44, 49,51,53 Daphne mezereum ... 7 Daphniphyllum glaucescens 70 Deutzia crenata ... 7 gracilis ... 7 Diervilla, Eva Rathke ... 7 ,, grandiflora varie- gata ... 7 rosea ... 7 DoronicumAustriacum 1 5,22,24 ,, excelsum 1 5,22 ,, HarpurCrewe 22,24 Duchess Elizabeth's picture 69 Duchess garden ... 69 Embothrium coccineum ... 88 Eranthis hyemalis 54, 58 Erica arborea ... 90 „ carnea 14,18,41,45,85 „ alba 14,18,85 ,, ,, transplanting 19 ., mediterranea ... 84 „ stricta ... 84 „ vagans 79, 84 ,, vulgaris Alportii ... 85 Eriobotrya Japonica ... 89 Erysimum compactum 1 5, 32 Eucalyptus amygdalina ... 84 citriodora ... 84 I N D EX — continued. Eucalyptus coccifera ... 85 Gunnera manicata ... 85 cordata ... 84 ,, scabra ... 85 ,, coriacea ... 84 Halesia tetraptera ... 7, 73 crebra ... 84 Hanbury, Sir T. 85, 90 ,, eulophylla ... 84 Hanging gardens at Belvoir 96 ,, ficifolia ... 84 Helleborus atrorubens 1 4,20,37 ,, globulus ... 84 ,, caucasicus 14,20,37 ,, Gunnii ... 84 foetidus 16,36 ,, Lehmannii ... 84 niger 54, 60 ,, longifolius ... 84 olympicus 1 4, 20,37 marginatus ... 84 Hemerocallis fulva ,, Resdonii ... 84 variegata 1 5, 23 resinifera . . 84 Hepatica triloba see „ robusta ... 84 Anemone hepatica Siebergii ... 84 Herbaceous plants ... 102 ., urnigera ... 84 Heuchera hispida 15, 22, 42, vimmalis ... 84 45,52 Eucrypha pinnatifolia ... 80 „ Richardsonii ... 8 Holboellia latifolia ... 96 Holcus mollis variegata 1 5, 23, Fabiana imbricata ... 95 42, 45, 50 Fanny Kemble ... 72 Honesty variegated 15,32,41,46 Festuca glauca 14,19,46 Hyacinth gigantea ...9, 48 Fleming, Mr. ... 5 LaGrandesse 9,48 Florida Cypress ... 70 „ La Perouse ... 9 Flowering shrubs, list of 7 Robert Steiger 9 Forsythia suspensa ...7,94 Hydrangea hortensis ... 80 „ viridissima ... 7 ,, paniculata ... 79 Fuchsia Riccartonii ... 96 Hypericum calycinum ... 80 Indigo ... ... 92 Genista hispanica ... 7 Indigofera Gerardiana ... 91 Gentiana acaulis 54,60 Ingram, Mr. W. ... 5 lutea ... 81 Iris foetidissima Golden Feather 15,32 variegata 14,20,45 INDEX- Iris pallida variegata 14, 20 ,, pumila ... 54, 61 ,, reticulata ... 61 ., ,, Krelageii ... 61 Ivy column ... ... 89 Japanese Maple ... 72 Medlar 89 Kerria Japonica Kitchen garden King Edward VII Lack, Mr. A. La Mortola Lastrea filix mas Lent Roses 7 97 90 98 85 81 37 Leptospermum scoparium 88 Lilac double Alphonse Lavallee ... 94 „ double Belle de Nancy 94 „ Maxime Cornu 94 „ MadameLemoine 94 Lily of the Valley 54, 61 Lincoln Cathedral ... 92 Lonicera f ragrantissima ... 95 Lowe, Mr. E. J. ... 90 Lunaria biennis — see Honesty ... 32 Luzula campestris 15, 23 Magnolia conspicua Sou- langeana ...7,92 grandiflora ... 92 Lennei ... 94 stellata ... 7 umbrella ... 86 continued. Manners — Mr. Fitzalan — tree planted in memory of ... 90 Manuka ... ... 89 Memorial trees ... 90 Muehlenbeckia complexa 91 Mullins, Mr. ... 75 Muscari botrytis alba ... 62 conicum Heavenly blue ... 62 ,, commutatum ... 62 Myosotis alpestris Queen Victoria 15,33 „ alpestris Royal Blue 15,33,45 dissitiflora 1 5, 33, 39 „ alba 15, 33, 39 ,, ,, Dyerae 16, 39,47 Myrica cerasif era ... 78 ., gale ... 78 Myrrhis odorata ... 85 Narcissus ... ... 54 ,, varieties for plant- ing on grass ... 62 Noble, Mr. ... 82 Olearia dentata ,, Haastii „ illicifolia stellulata ... 84 79, 84, 94 ... 84 93 Onopordon acanthium 1 5, 33 Ozothamnus rosemarini- folius 91 INDEX- Paeony — tree ... 7 Palms 71,88 Parrottia persica ... 83 Paulownia imperialis • •• 73 Pears, list of varieties ... 99 Phalaris arundinacea varie- gata 15,23,52 ,, arundinacea elegansl 5,23 Philadelphia coronarius ... 85 ,, Gordonianus 85 ,, grandiflorus 85 „ Lewisii ... 7 microphyllus 85 Phlomis fruticosus ... 85 Phlox divaricata 16,37,42,43,47 „ Newry Seedling 15.24, 44, 49, 50 ,, Subulata Brightness 15 „ Nelsonii 15,24,47 „ Sprite 15,24 „ Vivid 15,24,47 Photinia serrulata ... 94 Plants dotted on the grass 81 Poison Vine of America 93 Polyanthus coloured 1 6, 25 , 34 Gilbert's Harb- inger ...8,48 Veitch's White 16, 25, 34, 42, 48, 50, 53 „ Yellow 16, 25,42,43,47,52 Pomegranate ... 95 Portugal Laurel ... 68 Primrose double varieties 25 ontinued. Primrose Wilson's Blue 16, 34 Primula cortusoides 54, 63 Primula Japcnica 54, 64, 74 Professor Barratt ... 75 Propagating by cuttings 1 6,37,39 division 14, 15, 17,20 seeds 15,16,31,36 Prunus divaricata atropur- purea ... 7 „ Pissardii ...7, 77 ,, sinensis flore plena 7 „ triloba flore plena 7, 90 Punica granatum ... 95 Puschkinia scillioides 54, 64 Pyrethrum aureum ... 32 Pyrus florabunda ... 7 „ Japonica ...7,94 Mauleii ...7,94 Qyercus ilex 86 Retinospora filicoides ... 85 ,. plumosa aurea 8 Rhododendron altaclarense 82 ,, Blandyanum 82 ,, campanulatum 82 „ caucasicum pictum ... 82 ,, concessum ... 82 ,, Cunningham's white ... 82 Early Gem... 82 Everestianum 82 ,, Falconerii ... 72 INDEX — continued. Rhododendron fastuosum flore pleno 82 „ ferrugineum 82 ,, hirustum ... 82 ,, Lady Eleanor Cathcart... 82 Nobleanum... 82 praecox ... 82 The Queen... 82 Thomsonii ... 82 Wilsonianum 82 Rhus toxicodendron ... 93 Ribbon Grass 23, 52 Ribes ... ... 7 Robertson, Mr. J. ... 49 Robinia hispida ... 7 Rodgersia podophylla ... 85 Rose Banksian ... 95 ,, Aimee Vibert ... 96 „ Cherokee ... 95 „ laevigata ... 95 „ Leopoldine d'Orleans 96 ,, sinica ... 95 Rose of Sharon ... 80 Salix herbacea ... 85 Saxifraga Camposii 15, 26, 43, 48,50 „ cordifolia purpurea 1 5 ,26 „ Hgulata 15,27,48 „ moschata atropur- purea 15,27,43,45,48 , , moschata Guildf ord Seedling 15 27,42,45,48 „ moschata Rhei 15,27, 43,48 Saxifraga peltata ... 73 „ purpurascens 15,27 „ Wallaceii ... 26 Scilla bifolia 54, 65 ,. Siberica 44, 54, 64 Scotch Fir... 88,89 Scrophularia scorodonia variegata 1 5, 26, 53 Selfe Leonard, Mr. H.... 74 Shrubs with coloured foliage 7 Snowdrop tree ... 73 Snowy Mespilus ... 81 Spirea ariaefolia ,, aruncus „ Davidii ,, lobata „ palmata ,, Thunbergii 75 75 75 75 75 79 Spring bedding plants, list of 8 St. Dabeoc's Heath ... 79 Staphyllea colchica ... 72 Statuary Garden ... 87 Stock, Empress Elizabeth 1 6, 35 Styrax Japonica ... 83 „ serrulata virgata ... 83 Sweet Gale ... 78 Symphytum officinale variegatum 15,28,47,52 Syringa persica ... 7 „ vulgaris ... 7 Taxodium distichum ... 70 ,, sempervirens... 86 Terrace Gardens at Bel voir 90 INDEX— continued. Trachycarpus excelsus 71,87 Tritelia uniflora 54, 65 ,, ,, violacea ... 65 Tulip acuminata ... 9 ,, Buonoventura ... 9 ,, Cerise Gris de Lin 9 „ Chrysolora .-. 9,44 „ Clara Butt ... 9 „ Coleur Cardinal 9, 42, 47,51 „ Coleur Ponceau ... 9,44 „ Columbus ... 9 „ Cottage Maid ... 9,44 „ Duchesse de Parma 9, 42, 44,48 „ Elegans ... 9,42 „ Fairy Queen ... 9,49 „ Gesneriana rosea 9, 43, 53 ,, „ spathulata 10 „ Glow ... 9 „ Golden Crown 10,44,50 „ Isabella ... 10 ,, Kaufmanniana 54, 65 „ KeizersKroon ...10,11 „ Le Candeur ...10,45 „ LeMerveille ...10,50 „ Le Panache ... 10 ,, Loveliness .. 10 „ Margaret ... 10 „ Mr. F. Saunders...lO,44 „ Murillo ...10,45 Phyllis ...10,46 Tulip Picotee 10,43,45,47,49,53 „ Pride of Austria... 10 „ Proserpine ...10,50 „ Purple Crown ... 10 „ Retroflexa 10,43,53 „ Royal Standard ...10,44 „ SirT. Lipton ... 10 „ Stanley ...10,50 „ Summer Beauty ... 1 0, 46 „ Tournesol ... 10 Vermilion Brilliant 1 0, 42, 47,48,51 „ Vitellina ... 10 White Swan 10,44,45, 46, 47, 53 „ Wouverman ...10,49 Tulips, lifting from the bed 1 1 Tulips, trial as to date of lifting. 1 1 Ulmus, Dampierii ... 8 „ Rosseelsii ... 8,77 Vanilla scented shrub ... 72 Veratrum nigrum ... 81 Viburnum opulus ... 7 „ plicatum ... 80 „ tinus lucidum... 7 Viola, Admiration 46, 47, 49 „ Belvoir Castle ...46,49 „ Blue King ...49,52 „ Broom of Cowden- knowes ... 49 Bullion -45,50 INDEX- Viola, Canary ... 50 „ Cliveden Purple 5, 44, 50, 53 Countess of Kintore 47,50 Fire Dragon ... 9 „ Lord Elcho ... 9 „ Meteor .., 9 ,, Robinson's Standard 44 ,. Skylark ... 51 „ Woodlark ... 9 „ propagation, 15, 16, 28, 39 Violet, double, Lady Hume Campbell ... 30,51 single, Princess of Wales 30,51 „ Russian 30,51 ., The Czar ... 30 Victoria Regina ... 30 propagation ... 30 Violet, fungus ... 31 Vitis, purpurea ... 93 Waldsteinia trifolia 15, 31, 46,51 continued. Wallflower, Belvoir Castle 42, 52 „ Earliest of All... 35 „ Dark Red 43, 46, 48, 52 Double German 35,44 ,, Harpur Crewe 38,40 „ Red 38,40 „ . „ Yellow 30,40 Phoenix ... 35 „ Ruby Gem 43, 46, 53 Salmon Queen 43, 50, 53 Veitchs, Select Yellow ... 52 ,, partial lifting ... 35 „ raising from cuttings 38, 40 >, raising from seed 35 Water finding ... 75 Wistaria, sinensis ... 7 PRINTED BY J. E. C. POTTER, STAMFORD