i Special A. Y. P. Exposition
_ SOUVENIR EDITION

OF

The Suburbanite’s Handbook

on Oe

Dwart Fruit Tree Culinaire

Their Training and Management

iS era

ee A Discussion on their Adaptability to the Requirements
of the Commercial Orchardist

By DR. A. W. THORNTON
- Ferndale, Whatcom County, Washington
1909

Glass SES
TS

Book.
Copyright N°

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT:

on 1 oe
: ~
ee

=

ay

‘he Suburbanite’s Handbook

———OF

Dwarf Fruit Tree Culture

Their Training and Management

—— WITH ——

A Discussion on their Adaptability to the Requirements
of the Commercial Orchardist

Both in Connection and in Competition with Standard Trees

By DR. AY W! THORNTON
Ferndale, Whatcom County, Washington
1909

PRESS S. B. IRISH & CO
EE
er tention

BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON

Copyright, 1909
By DR. A. W. THORNTON

Two Govies Received

MAY 29 1809 |
on

“9
LE S99]

vA

LISRARY of CONGRESS] |

PREFACE

In blocking out this hand-book I endeavored to place myself in
the position of a suburbanite with little or no practical experience
on Horticultural subjects, and who was desirous of beautifying and
improving his home by the culture of these lovely dwarfs.

Realizing such a one’s requirement for a simple, detailed book
of instructions, to enable him to know what to do, and how to do it,
I present this hand-book for the benefit of suburbanites generally.
While many readers may be well informed upon general Horti-
cultural subjects, yet their attention has not been directed to the
subjeet of Dwarf Fruit Tree Culture. I trust they will derive both
pleasure and instruction herefrom. The work is open to criticism,
of course, favorable, or unfavorable, as may happen. Others might
have done better, and again they might not. I remember back
seventy years ago we had these dwarf trees in our home garden, and,
strange to say, that many of the choice fruits of that day still hold
a high place in the selected lists of ‘‘Bests’’ in the nurserymen’s
catalogue of the present day. In spite of the strenuous efforts of
three-fourths of a century to surpass them, they still hold their own.

In conelusion I wish to acknowledge the courtesy of Professor
Waugh of the Massachusetts Agricultural College in sending some
euts for illustrating this hand-book. Professor Waugh, who is per-
haps the best posted man in the United States on the subject of
dwarf fruit trees, has written a valuable work on the subject which
I ean highly recommend.

My greatest difficulty in preparing this hand-book occurred
when I came to select a list of dwarf fruits, in deciding which to
keep in my list, and what to strike out, the claims of many of those
stricken out being in many instances fully equal to those retained.
Not being able to inelude all the ‘‘Bests’’ I was compelled to make
a selection, and will let it ‘‘go at that,’’ and leave it an open ques-
tion whether to modify my list in future editions.

In conclusion I will say, I have taken much pleasure in prepar-
ing the work, and only hope my readers will enjoy as much pleasure
in reading it, and that it may prove the means of attracting their
attention to this highly interesting and delightful occupation of
Dwarf Fruit Tree Culture.

A. W. THORNTON,
Ferndale, Whatcom County, Washington.

The Suburbanite’s Handbook

Dwarf Fruit Tree Culture and Management

ae
<n Oe

Bush Pear Tree
Beurre Capaiumont—Photo
Fig. I.

Apple Tree—8 branches
Trained to goblet form
Fig. 2

It has been found that by treating fruit trees in a particular
manner they may be so dwarfed in growth that forty and
more apple trees may be grown in the space ordinarily required for
a single standard apple tree, at the same time increasing their pro-
lificaey and vastly improving the quality and beauty of the fruit.
Other fruits, as apricots, nectarines, pears, plums, ete., are subject
to the same change. This dwarfing is no new discovery, but has been
practiced successfully in Europe for centuries, and in Japan for a
millenium, and has been reduced to a science, that is perfectly simple,

6 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

and may be successfully practiced by any one who is capable of doing
as they are told.

‘There are three varieties of apple roots which have this power
of dwarfing the growth if budded or grafted on them. ‘ihey are
known as the Paradise, Doucin and Crab. The Paradise apple is a
slow growing dwarf tree, a native of Hurope, and is largely propa-
gated in France, to be used as a stock for working free growing
apple scions into, in order to dwarf their growth, and is the best
adapted for producing very small trees. The apple trees reduced
on this stock are so reduced in size that they may be planted only
three or four feet apart, and the bearing age is so forwarded that
they will begin to bear some times the first year, and by the fourth
year will bear a bushel or more of the choicest quality of fruit.
The Doucin apple is another variety of dwarfs wild apple, but is of
a more vigorous growth than the Paradise; it is called in England
‘“*The broad-leafed Paradise,’’ which causes some confusion in the
catalogues of dwarf fruit trees. It is better adapted for apple trees
that are to be trained as half standard and espalier tree, as it does
not dwarf the growth so much as the French Paradise. Both, how-
ever, may be grown in pots, if desired, and yield large crops. The
Crab is still more vigorous and is hardly comparable with the Para-
dise. It is used for growing half standards, and especially adapted
for making ‘‘fillers’’ in commercial orchards. All other apples are
grown on ordinary apple roots.

The dwarfing of fruit trees is subject to definite laws, which
may be briefly expressed thus: ‘‘ Anything that retards the flow of
sap in growing trees has a tendency to dwarf the growth, increase
fruitfulness and hasten maturity in bearing.’’ It is therefore evident
how peculiarly adapted these dwarf trees are to the requirements of
the suburbanite, who on his town lot can have a miniature garden,
consisting of forty or fifty of these little trees of the choicest varieties
of apples, pears, plums, apricots, nectarines, peaches, figs, grapes
and small fruits, not to mention the unalloyed pleasure of tending
and training the lovely pets. I do not know of anything more beauti-
ful and interesting than these little trees from the time they first
break into bloom in spring and while passing on to the perfecting
of their delicious fruit. Above all is the infallible pleasure and
pride of the tired and worried business man, or the tired-out society
woman going morning or evening to care for the little beauties—
a snip here and a pinch there trains them in the way they should go.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 7

Or can you realize the feeling of pride, pleasure and satisfaction
after training these little trees with your own hand to grow in pots,
and when loaded with gorgeous flowers or luscious fruit, when en-
tertaining your friends, to place pot and tree to decorate your dining
table as a center piece, and surprise them with the result of your
own handy work. This is an experience not uncommon in Europe,
where it is frequently practiced. The question of health also is
worth considering in this connection. Like those little trees produc-
ing their fruit so near the ground, secure a degree of health and
beauty therefrom not to be obtained otherwise, so the closer the
worn-out man or woman can get to work in the ground the happier
and better they will feel.

There was a physician in California who was so alive to this
fact that he made his female patients believe he could cure them
quicker not by giving them medicine, but by prescribing for the
vegetables they consumed. He therefore made them grow their own
vegetables, fertilizing them with his medicines, which they were to
apply to the plants daily, at stated hours, and in strictly regulated
quantities; he also succeeded in convincing them that his medicines
so altered the character of the juices of the plants that they became
entirely different from the stuff they could obtain in the market,
and the use of them would quickly effect a cure. When he made his
professional calls it was not to see his patients, but to examine how
the cabbage, lettuce and cauliflowers were progressing. His patients,
of course, got well, as might be expected from the change of lolling
in rocking chairs and restricted sunlight to working close down to
dear old mother earth, in God’s bright sunshine. So with you, the
care of these dwarf fruit trees will tone you up more than all the
nostrums in the drug store.

To resume, pears are dwarfed by working on quince stock,
which enables them to be trained in a variety of forms. Not all
pears take kindly to working on the quince, but when they do, they
are very satisfactory, and when they do not, we can compel them
to do so by the process of double grafting, which is accomplished
by first budding or grafting some variety of pear that naturally
takes kindly to the quince and then working the rebellious pear on
that. This has proved a complete success and the result is all that
can be desired. The double grafted pears are always of the highest
quality (although a little more expensive). Whether owing to the
double influence of the combined sap of the quince modified by pass-

8 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

ing through the pear graft, | know not. The fact remains, however,
these double grafted pears are always of the highest quality and well
worth the extra price. Root pruning (instructions for which will be
given farther on) is also used to check any exuberance of growth.
Some times, if too rampant growers, the trees are completely lifted

Photo of Peasgoods Apple and Doyenne du Comice Pear
Fig. 4

and replanted in the same place or removed to another loeality,
without checking their fruiting. They may also be planted in pots
with good effect.

The apricot, nectarine, peach and plum are dwarfed by working
on the Myrobolan, Mariana and Mussull plum stocks. They may
also be dwarfed to advantage on the ‘‘American Western Sand

OF DWARKF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 9

a eS fos - A Sie SS
“Crimson Galande’’ Peach, 6 years? old

EMS a7

Cherry.’’ They ean be grown in pots, both plain and perforated as
well as in baskets (see cuts). When planted in perforated pots, or
baskets, the pot is plunged in the spring in a rich border, and the
fine protruding fruit fibers feed on the surrounding fertile soil, In

10 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

the fall, after the fruit has been gathered, the pots are taken up and
the protruding roots cut off and the pot and tree removed to the
orchard house or cellar. In the case of basket planting, the basket
is planted in its place and left there, when it soon decays and leaves
the roots free to spread.

The cherry is dwarfed by working on the Mahaleb cherry or the
sand cherry. The fig’s growth is restricted by potting and root

pruning.

Peach in Perforated Pot
Fig. 3

All the above fruits are grown in England and France, and may
be grown successfully in the United States if the necessary condi-
tions are complied with. Of course the United States is a mighty
BIG country and includes many varying climatic conditions, which
may require modifications of treatment for the trees, but there are
few regions so inhospitable as to be beyond redemption, as I will

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 11

presently show. I note the American Pomology Society, in a bul-
letin (Bulletin No. 8, Division of Pomology), issued by the Depart-
ment of Agriculture, has divided the United States into 19 Pomol-
ogical districts, more or less adapted to different varieties of fruits.
For the purpose of this hand-book I will reduce that number to the
following five:

First—The northern tier of states, consisting of Maine, Vermont,
New Hampshire, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North and South Dakota,
Montana and Wyoming. This contains some of the most inhospitable
fruit regions, but it may to a great extent be made to meet the re-
quirements of those dwarf trees.

Fancy trained, globlet form

Showing vine when inconvenient to plant near a wall may be
planted at a distance in a basket and led underground to wall

Fig. 5

Second—The middle belt of states from the Atlantic coast to the
112th degree of longitude, which comprises a fairly good fruit region,
and well adapted to dwarf tree culture.

Third—We have the region of the Rocky Mountains and inelud-
ing Idaho, Eastern Washington and Eastern Oregon and Nevada.
This embraces a varied fruit region, in many places producing the
finest quality of fruits and in others (from local conditions) some not
so good, but nearly all may be utilized for dwarf trees.

12 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Fourth— We have the southern states, with Southern California,
which is unadapted to some varieties of dwarf trees while others
do well.

Fifth, and Last—We have a region where the dwarf fruit tree
garden requirements are met to perfection, namely, Puget Sound,
Western Washington and Western Oregon, a region unsurpassed and
unsurpassable in many ways, and where every suburbanite should
have his dwarf tree garden in full operation to its utmost capacity
and enjoy his own apples, apricots, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums,
figs, currants, gooseberries, strawberries and grapes.

While thus dividing the United States into fruit sections, no
hard and fast rule can be made, and allowance must be made for
varying local conditions.

it may be asked here: if dwart fruit trees are so well adapted
to use in the United States and have been grown in Europe for
centuries, why have they not been introduced here?) They have been
irequently introduced and tried, but they were imtroduced and
worked under the European system of management that was not
adapted to American conditions. in tact, the introducers tried to
open an American lock with an Huropean key that did not fit. Lat-
terly, however, several of the American Agricultural Experiment
stations and some private experimenters have been investigating the
subject with good results, ‘To illustrate what apparently trithng
errors in details may work injury to the fruit industry: When the
practice of training fruit on walls was introduced from England
(where it had been suecessiully practiced for centuries) it was dis-
covered that the trees were quickly killed with the heat. The mystery
was not solved for many years, when it was discovered that the diffi-
culty could be obviated by training the trees not against the walls,
but to trellises three inches from the wall and thus allowing all of the
hot air concentrated by the sun’s rays against the wall to escape and
secure free ventilation. It is now a fully established fact that dwarf
trees can be as suecesstully produced in the Umted States as they
can in England or France, and the adaptability of these trees to sub-
urbanite’s use is freely admitted by experts. The question of their
suitability to the requirements of the commercial orchardist is still
an unsettled one and open to controversy, with strong arguments in
its favor. J will therefore treat the two questions separately, and
the reader may judge for himself.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 13

THE DWARF TREE GARDEN FROM THE SUBURBANITE’S
POINT OF VIEW.

The suburbanite is generally possessed of a limited piece of
ground, and the use of large standard fruit trees is out of the
question. He requires to combine the ornamental with the useful
as far as possible. His ground has the great advantage of being
well sheltered from harsh winds (a very important consideration in
fruit culture). As a rule he does not look for profit from selling
his fruit. He looks, however, for the enjoyment of beautifying his
home and making it attractive to passersby, and if at the same time
he can produce fruit of the highest quality for himself, family and
friends, he will feel himself amply repaid for the work. While he
is thus enjoying the pleasures of rural life he is at the same time
makine a valuable investment by increasing the money value of his
property should he at any time desire to sell. Also, if he has echil-
dren,.. by giving each of them one or more of these little trees FOR
THEIR VERY OWN, and teachine them how to eare for them, he
mav develop a taste for nature studies that will eo far to wean them
from the streets. hoodlums and other bad in fluences to which sub-
urbanite boys and girls are exposed. While the commercial orchard-
ist reanires as few varieties as possible, but in sufficient quantities
to furnish carload lots of each fruit. the suburbanite desires as many
varieties as possible, though only one or two trees of each kind. so as
to secure fresh and varied fruit of his own growing every month
in the vear. The dwarf fruit tree garden therefore fully meets his
wants. He ean have a supply of little trees of dessert pears rinening
their fruit from Julv and every succeeding month till the following
Avril: he ean also have a few varieties specially adapted for stew-
ing or baking. and can have a few specially suited for exhibition
purposes. for those dwarf trees will produce the largest and hand-
somest fruit to be found anvwhere. Tn apnvles. too. he ean have a
variety of desert annles. ripening every month in the vear. from
Julv to the following June. He can also have a select lot of kitchen
apples. lasting from August to the following Mav. which will add
ereatly to his eniovment. In regions that might seem too severe for
these fruits, thev may be compelled to bear. with a little extra
trouble, by growing in pots or boxes, and the luxury of growing
them will fully repay any little extra trouble. which, in reality, is
no trouble at all, but the most enjoyable kind of pleasure.

14 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Peaches, apricots and nectarines may be classed together. They
will ordinarily grow in the open air in many parts of the United
States, though in some regions the climate is too severe for them.
By dwarfing they become hardier, and when grown in pots may be
shifted without difficulty, after the fruit has been picked in the fall,
to the protection of the orchard house or cellar, and again be set out
in the open border to blossom and bear fruit in the summer.

A few plums and cherries should also have a place in the garden,
as the can be dwarfed, while the cherries may be saved from the
exorbitant toll invariably taken by the birds off high trees. Figs,
too, though seldom grown outside of California and the Southern
states, can be grown in the open air if given the protection of the
cellar in the cold weather and exposed to warm and sheltered spots
in the summer. Currants, both white, red and black, are very desir-
able, nor do they take any more room than the dwarf trees. The
gooseberry is a fruit not adapted to the hot portions of the United
States, but in the cooler regions, is a most luscious fruit to eat out
of hand when fully ripe and one that Americans know very little
about, judging it from the green, sour, unripe fruit usually seen in
our markets. In reality there are varieties of the gooseberry more
luscious than any grape when fully ripe. Great attention has been
paid to improving this fruit in England both as to size and quality.
They now come in a large variety; large, medium and small; red,
white, green, yellow; hairy and smooth; late and early in ripening,
and if allowed to ripen fully, all are delicious to eat out of hand, and
if better known would be more appreciated in this country. For
many years great improvement has been made in England in the
growth and quality of the gooseberry as well as their training, owing
to the practice of giving prizes for the best berries grown each year.
This is particularly exemplified in the county of Laneashire, where
the vast number of mill operatives are encouraged to compete with
one another in producing the finest fruits. One of the greatest im-
provements is in training as a cordon (see cut) for the trellis or
wall. Heretofore it was no joke to pick gooseberries unless one was
provided with a good pair of gloves to protect themselves from the
thorns, but now by training as cordons, on wires, or walls, this
trouble is avoided. So universal is the culture of this fruit in Eng-
land that leading nursery men furnish lists of over 100 varieties, all
having received one or more prizes in different seasons.

Grapes may be grown as dwarfs either in pots or on the Cali-

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 15

fornia system. There the vines are cut back to mere stubs, each one
being shortened annually to only three buds, these buds sending out
fruit bearing canes the next season and greatly improving the yield
and quality. The grape grown in California is of the ‘‘ Vitis Vini-
fera’’ species, and are of the highest quality, but will only grow on
the Pacific Coast in the open air. The American grape is of the
‘“Vitis Labrusce’’ species, and will not bear the short pruning the
California grape stands.

The plum, too, is well adapted to the miniature garden, and is
a fruit the best of which is hardly known beyond the Pacifie Coast.
In Europe and on the Pacific Coast the ‘‘Prunus Domestica’’ is the
species chiefly grown; it contains as a class plums of the highest
quality, while inferior varieties principally are grown in the Eastern
and Western states.

Quinces are a very valuable fruit and well adapted to the minia-
ture fruit garden as it is naturally a slow growing shrub and may
be farther dwarfed by root pruning. It is chiefly used as a cooking
fruit, making delicious marmalade, jelly and preserves. The small
fruits, as strawberries, currants, raspberries and blackberries should
all find a place in the suburbanite garden. The strawberry may be
erown as a border or edging around the flower beds and vegetable
plots, not allowing them to produce any runners, and by planting
them a foot or eighteen inches apart in the row they will produce an
abundance of fruit. I have grown strawberries on this hill plan,
keeping the runners clipped off, and have kept the same plants on
the same ground for 15 consecutive years and yielding satisfactory
erops all the time. This system is not adapted to commercial culture,
but fits in to the suburbanite’s requirement admirably. Raspberries,
especially of the red and yellow varieties, may be controlled and
rendered less rampant by pinching the leading bud of each new cane
in June. When the canes have reached about three feet in height
they will send out side shoots and become more stocky. This pinch-
ing of the canes may be continued all through the summer if re-
quired to control the growth. I faney I hear some suburbanite
possessing only a small 25-foot lot close in town say: What is this
man ‘‘giving us?’’ How can I plant all these fruit trees on my little
patch of ground? Wait a bit, my friend. There are suburbanites
and suburbanites, some living close in town with their 25-foot lots,
and some living further out with lots of one or more acres and all

16 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK.

dimensions between who are interested in this subject. Do not repine
at your conditions, but take advantage of the opportunities that lie
within your reach. If you cannot find room for 50 trees, plant 25; if
that is too many, plant 10, or, at all events, try just one, and my
word for it, you will be so pleased that you will soon find room for
another. Remember, it is the man behind the gun that makes the
shooting, be it good or bad. And all these trees are grown under
high pressure and artificial conditions. The very aristocracy of the
fruit trees (the ‘‘400,”? so to speak) must be treated with all
due respect and proper attention. The work is by no means hard or
difficult and may be easily accomplished by any intelligent man,
woman or child who will obey orders and do as they are told. The
requirements must in all eases be done at the right time and in the
right manner; it will not do to be satisfied with ‘‘f THINK that will
do,’’ but go one step farther and say, ‘‘There, that is JUST RIGHT.”’

WHAT TREATMENT DO THESE TREES REQUIRE?

First—They require feeding; the ground must be fertile, and
ikept so.

Maiden ‘““Maiden”’ one-year Peach
Fig. 6 Fig. 7
Second—They must be kept clean; no weeds must be allowed to
rob the land of its fertility and moisture, or the trees will be stinted
in their supply of plant food.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. Ly)

Third—They require pruning and training adapted to the sys-
tem you wish to apply in each particular case. To render this part
of my subject more intelligible and comprehensive, I will take each
class of fruit separately and discuss the individual requirements of
each, even at the expense of some repetition.

First, there are some general questions which require elucida-
tion, such as: Where are these trees to be obtained? The chief source
of supply is England and France, where the nursery men keep them
in stock at different prices. First ‘‘the Maiden;’’ this is the original
dwarfing stock; Paradise, Doucin, Myrobolan, Mahaleb, quince or
what not. These are budded or grafted with apple, pear, peach, ete.,
as desired, but are not pruned in any way and are known as ‘‘maid-
ens,’’ or ‘‘one year-old trees,’’ and, though small, are the foundation

Peach in U Form Cordon Apple Trees in bearing, 2 year’s old
2 years’ old After Le Cornu

Fig. 9 Fig. 8

18 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

for all the training of the future tree, as bush, Cordon Pyramid,
Goblet, Palmette, Standard, ete. They consist of a root and stem
with the graft or bud inserted, and may be trimmed back to an inch
or two of the graft, and are im the best condition for shipping long
distances, at the some time the price, duty and cost of importing
are at the lowest figure. With these ‘‘maidens’’ the purchaser has
entire control of the future form he wishes his little tree to have.
Should he not purchase his tree as a ‘‘maiden,’’ then the nursery
man proceeds to train it to suit himself and sells it the next season
as a trained two-year old at an advanced price. It is really a one-
year from the bud and may or may not have developed one or more
fruit buds. Next season it will develop more fruit spurs, or fruit
buds, and the training has been carried on still farther in the re-
quired direction, and it is now classed as a bearing tree and sold at
a still higher price. After this its cost and value increase year by
year in accordance with its size and number of fruit spurs and from
training.

‘‘nursery stock’’ is 25 per cent ad val-

The American duty on
orem, in addition to which it must be remembered there is an ‘‘entry
fee’’ charged by the custom house of $2 for each invoice, as well

‘‘nermit.’’ It will therefore be seen that it would

as $1 charge for
be inadvisable for the suburbanite to send to Europe for a small lot
of these trees. For instance, say he wished to procure $5 worth of
trees; he would be required to pay in addition $1.25 duty, $2 entry
and $1 per mit; that would be $4.25 in addition to the simple price of
the trees, in addition to which there would be freight to New York,
insurance and forwarding and overland transportation charges. Nor
could he avail himself of the intervention of parcels post service, as
the goods would require to be examined at the customs house at the
first porty of entry reached in the United States; and however ecare-
fully packed originally by the nurseryman, would, under the careless
repacking by the customs house people and the further 3,500 miles
overland journey by railway, run a very strong risk of being utterly
ruined in transit. Some of the stock, however, used for dwarfing
if under 3 years old comes at a somewhat lower rate of duty under
the class of ‘‘seedlings’’ and ‘‘euttings’’ which is a specifie duty of
$1 per 1,000 and 15 per cent ad valorem, together with the $3
entry and permit charges and the trees in this class would require

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 19

working after they reached here and would be equally unadapted for
private importation in small lots.

I may say here by way of parenthesis that as I will be constantly
importing these trees from Europe for use in my own nursery to
supplant my stock, I shall be pleased to embody in my orders any
stock my readers may require at prices for delivery, duty paid, F.
O. B. at Ferndale, to be had upon application.

Having now an intelligent idea of what these trees are and
where to get them, the next question is: What preparation is re-
quired, and this brings us to the consideration of soils, fertilization
and planting.

Any good fertile garden soil, if well drained, will grow fruit
trees; but wet, soggy and lumpy land will prevent suceess. As I said
before, these dwarf trees are high toned aristocrats and require spe-
cial attention, therefore to secure the best results ‘‘intensive culture’’
is desirable. The land, if possible, should be trenched in the first
instance. Trenching is performed by first marking the size of your
bed, then by digging a trench 18 inches or two feet deep at one
end of the bed, taking the soil dug out in a wheelbarrow and dump-
ing it close to but beyond the other end of the bed. You have
now a trench from which the soil has been entirely removed to two
feet deep; you then continue digging the bed from the trench still
two feet deep, turning the first foot of top soil into the bottom of the
trench, and the second foot into the same trench on top of the other
You now have one trench filled in with top soil at the bottom and
another trench open next the undug remainder of the plot. You will
continue to dig strip by strip, throwing the soil into the open trenches
in front of you, and thus continue until you have dug over the whole
plot and have an empty trench left. You then throw the soil you
dug out of the first trench into this last empty one and you will
have your plot all trenched and level. This is the most thorough and
best preparation for a garden plot. If you cannot get the whole plot
trenched the first year you may take a narrower strip, but wide
enough for the trees, and trench it as described and the following
year trench an adjoining strip and you will soon have your lot all
trenched. Should your land not have good soil deep enough to allow
you to dig eighteen inches or two feet without striking hard pan,
you will require to dig as deep as you can and add a liberal allow-
ance of stable manure, incorporating it well with the soil. If your
land is reasonably fertile, it will require no fertilizer the first or

20 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

second year, as you must not force the growth too much. Your
object is to check the growth rather than stimulate it; when it
reaches the fruiting stage you will then require to stimulate with
fertilizers. I have been thus particular in detailing the process of
trenching because it is to the proper performance of that manipula-
tion that we owe our greatest success in dwarf fruit tree culture.
Where the grower has a sufficient area of land that he can avail
himself of horse power, he may have the land plowed 12 or 18 inches
deep and subsoiled and the surface finely cultivated, as for a garden
pateh. But above all it must be well drained, either naturally or
artificially, as fruit trees will invariably die if they are exposed to
cold and wet feet.

We have prepared our ground, and may now get our trees; but
what shall we do with them? We must first unpack them, and at
this time remember that the roots of these young trees are very
susceptible to injury from, exposure, so have everything in readiness
before you open the package. If for any reason you are not ready
to plant them permanently, it will be necessary to ‘“‘heel them in.”
The expression ‘‘heel them in’’ means to make a temporary planting
of them, to secure them from injury until transplanted in their final
location, as this is a manipulation that every gardener should be
familiar with. I describe it here. Select a spot where no water will
stand during the winter, and not having any grass close by to harbor
mice, dig a trench deep enough to admit one layer of roots and
sloping enough to allow the stems to recline at an angle of about
30 degrees with the ground. Having placed one layer of roots in
this trench, cover them with MELLOW EARTH EXTENDING
WELL UP ON THE BODIES, AND SEE THAT THIS IS FIRMLY
PACKED: then add another layer of trees, overlapping the first, and
continuing as at first until all are heeled in. As soon as this is done,
cover the tops so well with evergreen boughs that they will be thor-
oughly protected from winds. In sections where the winters are
very severe trees procured in the fall can be best cared for in this
manner and may be planted out permanently in the spring. Having
then this trench ready and a pail of water at hand, unpack your
trees and look them over. If you find them much dried out, dip them
in the pail of water and allow them to remain in it a few minutes; if
any of the roots are bruised or injured, trim them off with a sharp
knife or pruning shears, and ‘‘heel them in’’ as directed, emptying
the water over the roots in the trench when about half filled with

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 21

earth. Be particular at this stage to see the labels are in place and
secure from displacement so that the different varieties of trees can
be identified in the spring. Be ready to plant the trees as soon as
received. We come to the manipulation of planting.
PLANTING—It is better to get your trees in the fall for many
reasons, as then the nursery man is not so rushed, and as their supply
is not so picked over you can generally secure better trees; and if
you have everything in readiness for the permanent planting the
trees generally do better, as they start right in to make new fibrous

Planting—WRonc. Planting—RIGHT
Fig. 63 Fig. 64

feeding roots, which, when heeled in, are to some extent injured in
transplanting in the spring. Open your package and examine the
condition of the roots; if too dry, moisten them; if bruised, trim
them ; see that the labels are securely attached, but not tied so tightly
as to constrict the stems. Before opening the package, however, you
must have the holes dug amply large enough to accommodate the
roots, spread out in their natural condition, without bending or
cramping (see cuts) ; set the tree in the middle of the hole, keeping
it perpendicular; spread out the roots in their natural position, and
work in the fine soil with a little stick or your fingers, among the
roots until the roots are covered, and tramp them solid (the earth

22 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Root development Root development
Root injured before planting Not injured before planting
Fig. 10 Fig. 11

around the roots must be well compacted), then fill up the hole with
loose earth. SET THE TREE FIRM AS A POST, BUT LEAVE
THE SURFACE SOIL LIGHT AND LOOSE.

Remember to plant the tree with the point of union between
the stock and graft a couple of inches ABOVE the soil. THIS IS
IMPORTANT, for although it may be advisable in planting standard
orchard trees to place the point of union with the graft below the
surface, the dwarf tree require the opposite line of treatment. We
graft the free growing cions on the Paradise or other dwarfing
stock for the express purpose of restricting its growth, and if we
plant the dwarf tree with the point of union below the surface of
the ground, the free growing cion will throw out roots of its own
and thus antagonize our work for dwarfing. I wish to impress
this point on my readers because they will find many authorities
recommending the practice of covering the point of union with the
soil. This they do from being unfamiliar with the requirements of
the dwarf trees, or ignoring their existence altogether; my object in
this hand-book being to instruct the suburbanite in the culture of
DWARF TREES, not commercial orchards; therefore I say nothing
about supporting the tree with a mound of earth or stakes, as at this

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 23

stage these little trees do not require it. However, we must not
forget mulching, which must now be done. Mulching is accom-
plished by placing a layer of coarse manure, hay, straw or other
litter from three to six inches deep, extending one or two feet further
all around than the roots. This protects them from the ground dry-
ing out, or baking with the wind or sun, and keeps the soil under-
neath mellow. This mulch may be removed in the spring or turned
under and incorporated with the soil in the after culture. Having
our trees safely planted, we may now take time to consider the dif-
ferent fruit trees in detail.

APPLES.

As apple trees produce their fruit on fruit spurs, which remain
bearing from year to year and for many years, it is of the utmost
importance to secure and maintain the largest supply thereof
possible and protect them from injury, and next to train the trees
into the desired shape. The shape of our dwarf trees will greatly
depend upon our special requirements and is in a great measure
under our control, though some trees have distinctive habits of
growth that may require modification. Thus in bush trees some are
naturally close growing and may be planted only four feet apart,
while others of a more open habit of growth will require more space
and must be planted six feet apart or more. The dwarf apple tree
‘‘maiden”’ is one year old and has not been pruned. When we plant
it we cut it back to a point just a little above the point of grafting ;
the second year it will send out side shoots, and perhaps a few fruit
spurs will form the first year from our planting. In June, if there
are a number of side shoots, select the most favorably placed for the
future frame of the tree and let them grow unchecked till the leaves
fall in the winter, when they may be cut back to one-half or two-
thirds. The other shoots that start as soon as they have made four
good leaves should be pinched back to three perfect leaves; this will
have the effect of making a fruit spur in that place and may be
expected to bear blossoms and fruit the next season. No shoots must
be allowed to grow below the graft as all future growth must be con-
fined to whatever comes from the graft. Sometimes little trees make
more fruit spurs than they are able to support, in which case it may
be necessary to pinch off some of the fruit blossoms BEFORE THEY
FULLY OPEN. Thereafter, for bush trees, you may let them grow

24 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Fancy Trained
Fig. 12

as they will, only pinching back surplus shoots to three leaves to
form more fruit spurs. You will bear in mind that all fruit trees
that bear their fruit on spurs, when they have their shoots eut back
IN SUMMER to half an inch will form fruit spurs, and if pinched
back IN SUMMER to three leaves, will do likewise. Every year
these little bush trees will bear more and more fruit, the first year
producing perhaps one or two, the second year perhaps a dozen, the
fourth one bushel, and thereafter increasing crops. It must be re-
membered also that these fruit are so completely under control that
they may be thinned without difficulty to just what the capacity of
the tree will justify for production of first quality fruit; they are
so dwarfed that the wind has little effect on the fruit in causing
windfalls. These dwarfed trees are capable of being trained in a
number of different forms, but simple bushes, Espaliers, Pyramids
and Cordons are best adapted to the apple (see cuts for different
forms of trees). All these forms are the result of training and judi-
cious pruning, and although many of them are the result of pure
‘‘fun and faney,’’ others have very important advantages. It will
be observed pruning is of two distinct classes, one for the production

?

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 25

of wood and increase of growth, and the other for the restraining
growth and the production of fruit, and are known as winter and
summer pruning. With dwarf trees the summer pruning is of the
greatest importance, a neglect of which will quickly work havoe
with your trees. It may be remarked here that there are two distinct
systems of pruning. See Figs. Where they are contracted one is
generally called the ‘‘shortening in’’ process and may be deseribed
as ‘‘pruning back from the tips,’’ causing compactness in form, while
the other is “‘pruning out from the stem’’ and forms a spindling
head and is important in stone fruit trees, such as peaches, nectarines
and apricots, which produce fruit on last season’s shoots.

Instead of growing these trees as simple bushes we can econo-
mize space by training them as cordons and at the same time increase
their production. Cordons may be either upright oblique or U form

Half Standard

Goblet Form Standards and Half Standards
Fig. 13 Fig. 14

26

THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

SS

=

os

z EES
SS
Ss

»
=

SSS

BS

ae mS C] oe
Sa eee
Pyramid Form
Fig. 17

Trained Pyramid Form

Fig. 15
and may be produced as follows: If your maiden tree has been cut

back before you receive it, it will require no pruning that winter; in
spring shoots will start from the graft buds, of which you will select
the most upright growing and tie it to a stake as it grows. In June

Palmetto Form
Fig. 16

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 27

wai | a Seiig oe ~

Peach Tree ‘‘shortened in’”’ Upright Cordon

Properly pruned in summer 2 by 4 ft.
Fig. 18 Fig. 20

you will cut all side branches back to one or two inches. In August
pinch back any shoots that have made five leaves to three leaves
and continue each winter cutting the leader back within one or two

Peach wrongly pruned
Winter pruning
Fig. 19

28 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

buds of the last fruit spur and keeping all side shoots cut or pinched
back through the summer. Remember the cordon is simply a straight
stem without any branches and only leaves and fruit spurs all along
its length. If instead of a single cordon you wish to have a double
cordon, or U or double U, instead of training one leader perpendicu-
larly, select two opposite shoots and bend them down at right angles
and then at six inches farther bend them upright and so continue,
leaving six inches between each upright branch, thus a five-branch
upright trained tree will measure 24 inches from outside to outside,

U Form Upright a eae
Oblique Cordon Cordon Fancy Trained

Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23

and consequently may be planted two and one-half to three feet
apart. The oblique cordon is between the upright and the horizon-
tal and is intended to secure a longer stretch of bearing wood than
would be obtained if trained upright on the same height of wall or
trellis. Oblique cordons may be planted only 12 to 18 inches apart.
For horizontal cordons plant the trees eight to sixteen feet apart,
depending on whether you wish them to be double or single. If single
(which is preferable) plant the trees eight feet apart, stretch a stout
galvanized iron wire between rigid posts, about one foot

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 29

ay ad

| . ae n

Hic . 9)

: ave v

z HH

= ¥

v, ie a

otis 2

ar) * H

4: a o 2

a2 5

i B
yee ee
Ce ~ ee
- ol Pe)
Gat ey a fy

rv a

$2", ie

ye B

b Shed rN c=

iY fh ie)

ao)

a

a

wo

+

4

~
eg
RDOW
Horizontal
Fig. 24

Palmetto—Double Branched
Fig. 26

from the ground, and bend the leader at right angles to
the stem and train it along the wire as it grows until it
overlaps the next tree, when you can graft them together,
ealled enarching, by cutting a little of the bark off each and

30 THE SUBURBANITE'S HANDBOOK

Oblique Cordons
Fig. 27

tieing the denuded parts together with grafting wax, making
a continuous line of bearing wood all along the wire. This
plan is especially adapted for apples and is generally placed along
either the front or back of a flower bed. The double horizontal
cordon differs only in planting the trees 16 feet apart and training
two leaders in opposite directions and tying together the ends of
adjoining trees when they overlap. In the latter case you save the
cost of one-half the trees required in the first instance. The palmette
Verier and the Espallier are merely modifications of the cordon and
will be easily understood from the cuts, they have the advantage of
supplying a more extended surface of bearing wood and conse-
quently effect a saving in the purchase of trees at the start. The
pyramid and goblets are very useful styles of training and are
specially adapted to the apple and pear. Pyramids require a very
simple system of pruning and yet form the most beautiful and pro-
lific trees for garden or lawn. The whole system consists in simply
thinning out the side shoots in June, shorten to half their length in
October. In winter a few antumnal shoots will be found to require
pruning; these should all be shortened to three or four buds. If the
trees are aged or crowded with shoots they should be thinned with
2 sharp knife; this will constitute the whole pruning for the year.
Pyramids should be planted in rows nine feet apart. Goblet or vase-

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 31

shaped trees are very useful and beautiful; for these a dwarf tree of
four or five years old is the foundation if the tree will produce six
or eight shoots. For a few years these shoots will require to be tied
to stakes for support, but in time will be self supporting. Apple
trees of this form are exceedingly ornamental and form beautiful
objects either in blossoms or fruit; the hollow center allows the
admission of sun and air to the great benefit of the fruit. With
these instructions and a fair modification of good taste and attention
these varied forms may be produced. The Japanese and some
European gardeners produce some very grotesque forms, which have
no greater value than the ordinary styles, beyond ‘‘fun and faney,”*
and certainly the forming of them will afford lots of fun.

Half standard apple trees are dwarfed on the Doucin and crab
stock, which, while reducing their size considerably, permits a larger
growth than the Paradise and render them eminently adapted for
use as ‘‘fillers’’ in setting out commercial orchards to occupy space
between the larger trees while waiting for them to bear. As the

om
ee Le fee <
ee i eee

see
PYRAMIDAL FORM Pyramid Trained Peach GLOBE FORM
Fig. 28 Fig. 29 Fig. 29

32 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

dwarts come into bearing so much earlier they will pay a large
profit before the large trees begin to bear. Above all things never let
any shoots grow on the stem between the root and the graft in any
of these trees.

«

sunt} rk me >
ae Peach Palmetto
Half Standard Ist Stage

Fig. 30. Fig. 31

yy
,

i

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE.

: 3 3 Ly oa itt
oe ota raras pSvskn0 MT yaaa ly
a < eee nian eo

. VES aS « ‘peeps = A k
ASSN SESS SC
AR.

ia if ii she

A |

A Profitable Pear Orchard

After Phillip Le Cornu

Fig. 32

33

34 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

PEARS.

The same rule applies to pears as to apples, only pears are
dwarfed by working on the quince, by root pruning and pot culture.
They may be grown as bushes, pyramids, cordons or half standards.
Pyramids and several forms of cordons are best suited to the pear.
Walls and trellises also suit this fruit. This fruit is ereatly improved
by dwarfing and is worthy of all the care bestowed on it. Their
season of ripening may be greatly hastened or prolonged in the
cooler parts of the United States by winter protection; or be forced
by training into cordons and bent back to enable their being covered
with a hotbed sash in the spring to protect their blossoms from cold
rains and prevent the polen being washed off the flowers. They may
be grown as bushes, pyramids, cordons or half standards, but pyra-
mids are the most beautiful and specially adapted to the suburban-
ite’s use, especially where a roomy lawn is available.

As some of my suburbanite readers may like to obtain a money

Trained Pear Tree, only 6 inches between
branches, 2 ft. from ‘‘out to out”’

Fig. 33

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 35

profit in addition to the pleasures and luxury of having a minature
fruit garden, and as both apples and pears are subject to the same
treatment, I will in this place give a few hints that may help in that
direction. {It has become the fashion in England (a fashion that
might with advantage be introduced into the United States) for per-
sons with independent means to plant dwarf fruit trees and sell some
of the produce to less fortunate neighbors at faney prices. As an
example of the fancy prices that are sometimes paid for dwarf
fruit of highly attractive appearance, I may mention that there is a
pear grown in Paris called the ‘‘Belle Angevine’’ or ‘‘Uvedales St.
Germain,’’ so attractive and large that it frequently sell in the high-
toned delieatessen stores in the Palais Royale at 30 franes ($5.70)
EACH. It is of enormous size, often weighing two pounds, and very
attractive, but utterly worthless as a desert pear, and as to its cook-
ing qualities I cannot speak, as it is chiefly used to ornament the din-
ner table, no one thinking of eating it, the ordinary fruit stores
selling them for 25 cents each.

On the subject of fertilizers it may not be amiss to quote from
Prof. E. Waugh, of the Massachusetts Experiment Station, who has
devoted much time and study to this subject, and says:

‘While it is true the dwarf fruit trees should be liberally fed,
there is a possibility of overdoing it. It has already been explained
that the dwarfing of a tree depends in a certain way on its well
regulated starvation. If the top could get all the food which its
nature calls for, it would not be dwarfed. The rule of feeding dwarf
fruit trees therefore should be to give them enough fertilizer to keep
them in perfect health and in a gocd growing condition, but not
enough to force unnecessary growth. Fertilizers rich in nitrogen
should be especially avoided, and as the object in view is to secure
an early maturity of the tree and to produce fruit, always in prefer-
ence to wood, a larger proportion of potash would naturally be sub-
stituted for a diminished proportion of nitrogen. Of course the
amounts and proportions of the different elements (nitrogen potash
and phosphorie acid) to be applied will vary greatly with different
conditions—with the nature of the soil, age of the trees, ete. Asa
sort of standard we may say that under normal conditions of good
soil, with dwarf apple and pear trees in bearing, there should be
given annually for each acre:

400 pounds ground bone.

36 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

400 pounds muriate of potash.
100 pounds Perucian guano.

Peaches and plums require more nitrogen during early growth,
and more potash when in full bearing. For a new plantation of
these trees the following amounts should be given annually for each
acre:

300 pounds ground bone.
400 pounds muriate of potash.
150 pounds nitrate of soda.

For peach and plum trees in bearing the following formula may

be suggested:
400 pounds ground bone.
500 pounds muriate of potash.
100 pounds Purivian guano.

Inasmuch as many owners of dwarf fruit trees will have so much
less than an acre for treatment, it will be best to repeat these
formulae, reducing them to a smaller unit. Making this reduction
somewhat freely to avoid long and useless decimals. We may com-
pute the quantity needed for each 100 square feet of land as follows:

For Apples and Pears in Bearing:

1 pound ground bone.
1 pound muriate of potash.
1, pound Peruvian guano.
For Peaches and Plums Newly Planted:
% pound ground bone.
1 pound muriate of potash.
34 pound nitrate of soda.

For Peaches and Plums in Bearing:

1% pound Peruvian guano.
114 pounds muriate of potash.
1 pound ground bone.

For treatment of trees in winter, during frost, the trees, if
closely packed when received, should be placed in a cellar or some
place where the frost cannot reach them, and there remain un-
opened till a thaw takes place, and then be unpacked and plainted ;
with such treatment, even though frozen solid, they will receive no
injury.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 37

If the soil where the trees are to be planted is of fair fertility,
no manure need be added before planting, but some fine mold be
placed on the roots and the tree shaken so that it enters into the mass
of fibers, and then be trodden down firmly. When the hole is filled
in level, some manure may be spread on top in a cirele of about three
feet wide. If the soil is poor, some well rotted manure may be
worked in when planting. In heavy and wet soils trees should be
planted on mounds and not in holes.

DISTANCE FOR PLANTING.

Pyramidal pear trees and bushes on quince stock—9 feet apart.

Pyramidal pear trees on pear stock, root pruned—12 feet.

Horizontal Espalier pear trees, on quince, for rails or walls—
12 feet.

Upright Espaliers on quince for rails or walls—4 feet.

Horizontal Espaliers, on pear stock, for rails or walls—20 feet
apart.

Pyramidal plum trees—9 to 12 feet apart.

Espaher plum trees for rails or walls—20 feet apart.

Pyramidal and bush apple trees, on Paradise stock, root prunes,
for small gardens—6 feet.

Espalier apple trees, on Paradise stock—12 to 14 feet.

The same on crab stock—20 feet.

Peaches and nectarines for walls—15 to 20 feet.

Apricots for walls—20 feet.

Cherries as bushes or pyramids, on Mahaleb stock, root pruned,
for small gardens—9 feet apart.

Espalier cherry trees, for rails or walls—15 to 20 feet.

Upright cordons, pear, apple and cherry—2 to 3 feet.

Oblique cordon trees, trained to a wire fence (of four, wires
five feet high or more) 2 feet apart.

Horizontal cordons—single, 5 feet ; double, 10 to 16 feet.

Standard currants and gooseberries—6 feet apart.

Cordon gooseberries and currants—9 to 12 inches apart.

These cordon gooseberries, if planted any farther apart, allows
too much room for the roots and permits them to grow too rampant
and consequently would require root pruning to keep them in bounds.
If the trees bear too profusely, so as to exhaust themselves, some
decomposed manure, about five bushels to 25 square yards, should

38 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

be spread IN THE WINTER over the surface of the soil and left
there. These condensed orchards are for small properties. A small
orchard, well cultivated and well planted will be found most pro-
duetive and profitable. The best form of condensed orchard will be
secured by planting oblique cordons, as you will see from the fore-
going table of distances for planting that the oblique cordons may
be planted only two feet apart in the rows, allowing four to six feet
between the rows (which would allow horse culture). We could
have 3.630 trees to the acre, and they would commence bearing the
second year and bear increasing crops every year after, where there
would be room only for 27 standard apple trees at 40 feet apart, as
ordinarily recommended in commercial orchards, and moreover the
standard trees would not come into profitable bearing for eight or
ten years.

Half Standard
Alexandra Noblesse Peach
Peach Tree in Pot From Photo

Fig. 34 Fig. 35

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 39

After Dr. Thornton
Fig. 36 Fig. 38

PEACH, APRICOT AND NECTARINE.

The peach, apricot and nectarine may be considered together,
as they require similar treatment. These are more tender than the
apple and pear, but are still available for suburbanite’s use in most
parts of the United States, where the climate is not too severe, as
they can stand a considerable degree of frost. They may be grown
in pots, either plain or perforated on trellises, or against walls.
They produce their fruit on the new shoots, therefore too much of
the new growth must not be sacrificed, only enough to let in the light,
and control the shape of the tree.

When growing these fruits in pots they will do in 18 to 15-inch
pots for the first four or five years, and may be taken up in the
spring, repotted in the same pots with fresh soil, and plunged, pot
and all, into the border to fruit, or may be transferred from a pot
into a rich border and kept there if the temperature keeps above

40 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

zero. They may be wintered outside with a mulch of straw placed
around the roots. If trained to a wall they may be kept close up
to the wall in cool climates, but in hot climates it will be better to
train them to espaliers or wire trellisses to prevent them getting
seorched or burned. Sometimes the foliage becomes too dense, when
it will be necessary to clip or pinch off some of the leaves to enable
the sun to reach the fruit and brighten the color. In this case NEVER
PULL the leaves, as doing so will injure the bud adjoining it but
pinch with the finger nail or chp with a scissors just below the
expansion of the leaf. This may seem a trivial matter, but it is
attention to just such trifles that make or mar success with dwarf
trees. If potted trees blossom in the house where no bees can get
to fertilize them the flower must be hand fertilized; in such eases
the blossoms must not be emasculated, as is necessary in hybridizing,
which see further on.

PLUMS.

The plum is a very delicious and superior fruit, but is not as
well known as other hardy fruits, chiefly because a number of Amer-
ican and Japanese plums of inferior quality have been in use. The
plum takes up rather more room in the suburbanite’s garden than
some other dwarf fruits, as it is generally planted 12 feet apart, as
half standards, with a stem four feet high and a round head. It
requires little pruning. They may however be trained in the same
way as other stone fruit, as the peach, and may be confined to more
moderate dimensions by root pruning; it bears its fruit on fruit spurs,
There are several varieties of plums, prunes, damsons and gages,
ete. I would recommend for suburbanite’s use the ‘‘Prunus Do-
mestica’’ class as it includes all those of finest qualty.

THE FIG.

The fig is a very luscious fruit to eat off the tree, but is very
little grown outside of California and the Southern states. It is
admirably adapted to the small fruit garden, where it can generally
be provided with shelter and does not take up much space. It may
be grown in pots and shifted into the cellar in the fall. The novelty
of growing your own figs adds greatly to the pleasure of doing so.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 41

THE CHERRY.

The cherry is admirably adapted to the miniature fruit gardens
as they may be dwarfed by working on the Mahaleb cherry or the
American Western Sand cherry. They must be root pruned and
potted, if required for small gardens, and may be trained in any form
and bear fruit on fruit spurs on wood two years old and over. The
large Biggareau varieties do especially well on espaliers. Dwarf
cherries can also be secured from the depredation of birds more
efficiently than on larger trees as they can be covered with netting.

~.
sat a ——

: as Domelow’s Seedling :

Bush Tree Apple on Paradise :
Ordinary dwarf Stock 2 ae
may be planted Late Winter Apple — os

4 ft. apart 3 years’ old Grape in Pot

Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 39

SMALL FRUITS.

These consist of currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackber-
ries and strawberries, which no garden should be without. Many of
them may be planted between other fruits, or in any out of the way
corner. Of currants we have quite a variety—red, white, pink and
black—all are good, either for preserving, jelly, wine or to eat fresh
with cream and sugar. To produce very large white or red ecur-
rants the bushes should be closely pruned, the young shoots should
be annually shortened to two inches. Currants make very handsome
pyramids and bear profusely. Gooseberries furnish a great variety

42 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Ra =
ee

STANDARD CURRANT Currant in Tree Form
Fig. 42 Fig. 43

of delicious fruit if allowed to get fully ripe—red, white, green and
yellow, smooth and hairy, sweet and acid. For cooking they are
generally picked green, but for home cooking it is better to let them
get fairly ripe, as they will thus develop a much finer flavor and
require much less sugar. With regard to raspberries and black-
berries they are so well known as not to require any description here.
They bear on new shoots the second year after starting. The
canes of the current bear the summer following, and the old canes
should be cut away in the fall or winter as they die after fruiting,
and only three or four of the strongest new canes allowed to grow.
They may be kept in bounds by stopping the new shoots in June.
As to grapes, I will not enter into detail for the reason that so
much depends on local conditions that the suburbanite had better
consult a local nursery man or fruit grower concerning them. The
strawberry has the habit of sending their roots straight down, and
do not spread their feeding roots far on either side of the row.
This should be remembered when spreading fertilizers. While the
commercial grower of strawberries requires to cut down the cultural
expenses to the lowest notch, the suburbanite, having only a limited

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 43

supply of plants, can afford to spend more time and care over them
for the sake of producing a higher class of fruit. The strawberry
is a fruit that is very sensitive to good treatment, well repays
any extra attention given to it. In order to economize space I would
recommend the suburbanite to plant in rows as an edging to flower
beds, or vegetable plots, putting the plants one foot apart in the
rows and keeping all runners religiously cut off; in this way all the
strength of the plant goes to the fruit. Should you wish to propa-
gate extra plants of any particular variety it will be better to have
a little propagating bed in some out of the way corner; there you
can plant the varieties in rows two feet apart and 18 inches between
the plants in the row, keeping the ground mellow and free from
weeds to encourage the runners to start and root. Another
matter about the strawberry is that its size and quality is greatly
influenced by local conditions, so that a variety that succeeds well
in one place, when grown elsewhere may turn out to be almost worth-
less, without any fault of the grower or the party who recommends
it; it will then be wise for parties thinking of growing strawberries
to find out what varieties do best in their immediate locality and
not place too much confidence in the roseate descriptions in the fruit
calatogs, and only test other varieties in a limited manner. At the
same time the converse of this is also true, and strawberries that
do not succeed with your neighbor may excel with you. Its attrac-
tions are so great we must excuse these little individual peculiarities.

44 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Cordon Gooseberries only 9 inches between the plants
After Le Cornu
Fig. 44

This whole business of caring for a dwarf fruit garden, while
affording the highest pleasure and unalloyed enjoyment, has its cares
and responsibilities, and although the work is light and easy, it must
not be neglected, but must be performed just at the right time, and
in the right manner, from the preparation of the ground to the
eating of the fruit, for even that most important work must be done
just at the right time, or when the fruit is mellow and in its best
condition. In June the necessary summer pruning must not be
neglected in order to start right; this may mostly be done the first
year or two with a pocketknife or the finger nail. A pinch here and
a snip there does the work and leads them in the way they should
go; but for every pinch and for every snip you should have a definite
object in view. First decide what you want, and then stick to that

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 45

ideal and work to it as near as you can, always keeping in view
the necessity of encouraging and preserving the fruit spurs and
securing light and ventilation into the heart of the trees.

In former times that was pretty much all there was to be done,
but of late years the enemies of fruit trees have so increased that
the gardener who wishes to secure the best results must look out.

Single Serpentine Special Training for Currants,
After Dr. Thornton Gooseberry, Grapes, etc.
Fig. 46 Fig. 47

Fortunatly we have efficient means at our disposal, and careful
use of them will secure to the grower complete victory over all
enemies. Do not let the list frighten you. Among the enemies to the
apple are the codling moth, the tent caterpillar and scale; these are
all insects enemies and live by eating the fruit and leaves. There are
others, such as the woolly aphis and other aphidae, oyster shell bark
louse, the San Jose seale that live by suction. This is a very im-
portant difference, as one lot requires one kind of poison, while the
other requires a different. Thus the biting insects as the codling

46 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

SSS Sa

Fancy Trained ‘Big Horn’”’
After Thornton
Fig. 48

moth and tent eaterpillar require arsenicals, the suckling insects
require kerosene emulsion and fumigation. There are germecidal
enemies, such as apple seab, brown rot, ete., that require the Bour-
deaux mixture or lime and sulphur, or the soluble oils. The pear
also has its enemies, as the Phytoptis Pyri, a microscopical insect
that causes a blistered leaf; there is also the pear Physilla, both of
which may be destroyed by lime and sulphur, or soluble oils. There
is also the pear slug, which also affects the cherry. The peach suffers
from the curled leaf, and the yellows also rot. The plums suffer from
eurculie. The gooseberry from milldew, and the currant worm. But
enough of this long list of enemies, which all require constant watch-
fulness and war to the knife. Farther on I will treat at length on
this subject.

DWARF TREES IN POTS.

As some of my suburbanite readers may be financially so fixed
as to be able to afford themselves the luxury of an orchard house, a
few remarks on that subject may be of interest in this place. The
orchard house may be an elaborate affair in size, style and finish, or
it may be a simple lean-to without heating arrangements and costing
only a few dollars. It is desirable to grow the different fruits in

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 47

different houses, but this is not necessary if one wishes to grow a
variety in one house. Only in that case the different varieties should
be kept together ‘‘en bloc’’ for the sake of regulating the ventilation
to suit each lot. The best form of orchard house is the span roof,
not less than 18 feet wide and 4 feet 6 inches to the eaves, and 10

Ses
Conference Pear—Photo
Fig. 49

feet to the ridge; in length 20 to 50 feet or more; ventilators 18
inches wide, hinged at the bottom, run along each side of the house,
one foot below the eaves; and top ventilators 2 by 3 feet at intervals
of 5 feet, alternately, on either side of the ridge. The pots must

48 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

not be stood directly on the ground, but should have some cinders or
broken crockery placed underneath them to insure drainage. All
fruit trees in pots require to be repotted every year; this may be
done as soon as the leaves fall in October. The tree is then taken
out of its pot, and the outer soil raked away with a pronged claw till
a ball of earth containing the larger roots is left. If the tree is
healthy and doing well the soil removed will be full of fibrous root-
lets. A clean pot of the same size (or one size larger if necessary )
having a sufficiency of broken crockery to secure proper drainage,
is partly filled with soil to a height that will bring the tree to the
same level with the pot rim, as it was before. The tree is then placed
in the pot, held so that the stem is in the middle, and stands vertieal,
whilst the soil is rammed firmly in all around the ball and the pot
filled up to within an inch of the top of the rim. In potting only a
fittle soil should be used at a time and firmly rammed with a stick
before adding more. The soil should be of good fibrous turfy loam
three-fourths mixed with one-fourth rotten stable manure; for stone
fruits, ime in the shape of old mortar, ete., should be added; mix
some little time before using and do not allow it to get sodden or
dry. After they have been repotted the trees should be given some
water and stood close together in the house. In severe weather
straw should be packed, round and over the pots to keep the frost
out. Little water need be given the trees in the house during
November and December. Early in February the trees may be
pruned and at the end of the month the trees set four feet apart.
A good smoking with tobaeceo should be given, and the trunks and
jarger branches brushed with quassia chips wash. If the trees have
been properly summer pinched, pruning consists in shortening the
last season’s growth to behind the point at which it was first pinched.
Dead wood and that not required to furnish the tree must be eut
out. In pruning peach and nectarines the shoots must always be eut
to a wood bud (easily distinguished when the flower buds are round
and plump and in a triple eye situate between two of these latter).
If there are no bees to do it, the flowers must be fertilized or
polenized by hand with a soft brush. Plenty of air must be allowed
at the flowering stage. When the fruits are set and the leaves
erowing the house should be kept closer and the syringe used freely,
damping down well at night to obtain a moist growing atmosphere.
Peaches and nectarines push too many growths along their shoots;
they would be overcrowded if left and must be cut right out, most

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE, 49

of the remainder being converted into fruit spurs by pinching out
the growing point; only the end bud is allowed to extend, or per-
haps one or two others required to cut back to. When stone fruits
are beginning to swell they must be cleaned of dead flowers, etc.
In most cases the fruits must be thinned out. Pears and apples will,
as a rule, thin themselves out, but peaches, nectarines and apricots
set too many fruits, all of which would mature if allowed. They must
have the crop reduced, going over it three times, once when the fruit
has set, again when it is the size of a nut, and finally after stoning
is finished.

ESPALIEBR BEARING FRUIT

Fig. 50

After peaches and nectarines have stoned and when apples and
pears are swelling the trees should be top-dressed and given liquid
manure diluted with water, about twice a week. <A good top-
dressing is: Equal parts of horse droppings and loam mixed to-
gether, spread out into a bed about a foot deep, and saturate with
water. This is ready for use the day after it is made. The mixture
is placed on the surface of the soil, about two inches deep near the
pot rim and sloping towards the stem of the tree; renew when the
fruit is coloring. Summer pinching controls the growth of the trees.
When a shoot has made about six inches of growth the tip should be
pinched off ; the leading shoot of a pyramid may be allowed to extend
rather more. The top shoots of a tree (always the most vigorous)
are pinched first ; this keeps them from taking the lead and keeping it.

Insects must never be allowed to get the upper hand. Aphides
are killed by fumigation, directly they are noticed. Red spider
thrives in dry heat and is kept down by syringing, forcibly wetting

50 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK~™

the underside of the leaves and by dampening so as to get a moist
atmosphere. Syringing must be discontinued when the fruit is ap-
proaching maturity. A single four-inch pipe running around the
house enables one to keep the frost o * when the trees are in flower.
In ease of a cheap orchard house being*decided on, without a regular
furnace and piping for artificial heating, the frost can be econom-
ically kept out by one of these blue flame kerosene wickless stoves.

Pears in pots form a most useful and satisfactory addition to
the fruit garden. The method is simple and certain; an orchard
house without artificial heat (either lean-to or span-roof) will shelter
the trees until all danger from spring frosts is past. The weather
by the end of May, or first part of June, is generally mild enough
to enable the grower to put his trees out of doors; after this opera-
tion a sufficient supply of water and occasional surface dressing of
manure or manure water will insure the production of fine fruit.
For the first two or three years of cultivation 13 or 15-inch pots will
be large enough; in the autumn, after the fruit is gathered, the trees
should be repotted in the same pots and fresh soil added. The trees
should then be either replaced in the house for the winter or plunged
out of doors, protected against severe frost by covering the surface
of the ground with mulch. If replaced in the house trees should be
also protected during severe frost by a thick covering of straw
around and over the pots. At the time of repotting any of the
strageling roots should be pruned. When selecting a site for a fruit
house for shelter it is advisable for the easy removal of the trees
to select a spot with sufficient room to have a summer border in a
line with the house. Another method is to grow the trees in per-
forated pots (see cut).

The border in which they are plunged should be of good soil,
mixed with a large proportion of rotted manure, into which the
trees will root annually. As a rule the rotten manure should be
renewed when the trees are repotted, and at the time of plunging
the soil should be stirred as deep as the pots are plunged. When
plunging the pots place a handful of potsherds or gravel under the
pot in order that the drainage may be rapid and effectual. When
taking up these perforated pots in the fall do not forget to cut off
the fibrous roots protruding through the pots.

The above system answers equally well for plums and apples.
The return is constant and certain, and with plums the fruit bearing
season is considerably prolonged as the slight advantage given by

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 51

the shelter in the spring ‘advances the maturity by fully ten days.
This result has been repeatedly proven.

ROOT PRUNING.

ues

Root pruning is a manipulation little practiced in this country,
and very little understood by the horticulturist, but in dwarf tree
culture it is frequently absolutely necessary as the only available
means of checking a too rampant growth. The important point in
dwarf tree culture is keeping the root system completely under con-
trol, and changing from the natural wide and deep stretching roots
of the ordinary apple tree to a close mass of fibrous feeding roots.
Our first effort in effecting this change is the grafting of the free
growing cion on some of the natural dwarfing stock, as before
mentioned. Sometimes, owing to extra fertility of the soil, or other
natural cause, the little tree refuses to be controlled and becomes
rebellious and starts into a too rampant growth that would upset
alk:our expectations and utterly spoil our work, consequently we are
compelled to use heroic measure, which is, in fact, ‘‘striking at the
root of the trouble.’’ When we first find our little tree obstreperous
we give it the first lesson by curtailing its tap root, this is accom-
plished by forcing a sharp spade obliquely under the roots until the
tap root is severed. If that lesson is not effectual, we administer the
next dose the next season by forcing a sharp spade perpendicularly
into the ground at varying distances from the tree, according to its
size, and dig in a circle HALF WAY AROUND THE TREE, not
turning the soil, but merely cutting the superficial roots. The next
year repeat the dose half way around the other side of the tree,
Sometimes we dig up the tree entirely. trim the roots and return it
back to where it had been growing; this is best done in the fall or
winter, and does not interfere with the fruiting the next season.
Root pruning is hardly ever necessary in potted trees farther than
trimming them if necessary at the annual repotting, as by changing
them from smaller to larger pots, as occasion requires; we have the
roots entirely under control. The result of all this severe treat-
ment is that our little tree accepts the correction and abandor s its
evil way and goes to work bearing still more and more beautiful
fruit, thus illustrating the wisdom of Solomon in ‘‘training the
child in the way he should go.’’

The new course is a very important and interesting phase of
dwarf fruit culture, embracing hybridization and cross fertilization,

53 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

a work particularly adapted to these trees for the reason of their
coming into fruit so speedily, consequently by budding the product
of our cross fertilization we will be able to produce fruit in two
years, and judge of the success and value of our work, while under
ordinary conditions we are compelled to wait several years before
we can obtain results.

Hybridization and cross fertilization consists of removing the
polen from the stamen of one flower and placing it on the pistil
of another blossom of the same species but different variety, and we
take the seeds of the fruit produced by that cross and plant them;
the trees that fruit will produce will bear fruit altogether dif-
ferent from either of the original parent’s product, and may or may
not produce a continuation of the qualities of both. They may be
better or worse than either or both their parents, larger or smaller,
handsomer or less attractive, and at all events a new creation, due to
your skill and enterprise. Having procured after careful nursing a
tree of this hybridized stock, we are naturally anxious to know what
it amounts to, but it would take years waiting till that tree naturally
bore fruit, which might after all be worthless; or again, a really
valuable improvement upon any former product. In the one case
you would dig it up and throw it away, or in the other, propogate it
to the limit and perhaps make a fortune out of it. All our valuable
fruits have been obtained in this way and the originators have been
paid large sums of money for the new variety. An instance of this
come to mind in the case of the celebrated Fay’s Prolific Red Cur-
rant. Mr. Fay developed this currant by hybridization, and it was
so superior to other red currants that Mr. Joslyn, a nursery man,
took it in hand and paid Mr. Fay some $14,000 in royalties for it.
I give this from memory and may be subject to some correction.
Anyhow, a large amount of money was realized by the originator.
Now then, we have got a new variety of fruit tree raised and are,
of course, desirous to know what it will amount to, so we take a
bud from it, when the sap is flowing freely, and insert it into one of
the dwarf trees and cause it to develop into a fruit spur, and the
next season it will bear new fruit.

The whole progess is very simple and interesting and anybody
who has a love for flowers can practice the art successfully, for all
flowers are subject to the same rule. It was in this way the cele-
brated Mrs. Lawson carnation was produced, for which Mr. Lawson
paid $30,000.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 53

Strawberry Blossom

Perfect and Pistilate Pistil
A Male. B Female ‘‘Female Organ’”’
51 Fig. 52

As there are many little details to be observed it may be well
to give a cursory sketch of the natural fertilization of flowers. The
flower, as every one is aware, is the foundation of the fruit or seed
and consist of organs for fertilization. Th stamen is the male organ
and produces the polen, which is the fertilizing ingredient. The
pistil is the female organ, and at a certain state of its development
becomes receptive for the polen, and unless that polen comes in con-
tact with the pistil just at that time there can be no fertile seed pro-
duced. Now we have perfect and imperfect flowers, or uni-sexual
and bisexual; in some cases, as the strawberry, we have both per-
feet and imperfect. The perfect plant has both stamens and pistils;
the imperfect plant has no stamens, and consequently bears no fruit,
unless a staminate plant is growing near it, and the bees and other
insects or wind earry the polen from one place to the other. Corn
and all nuts have two classes of flowers on the same plant, but dif-
ferently located. The tassels on the top of the plant of corn are the
male flowers, while the silk is the pistil, and at the receptive period
the polen is shaken off by the wind and drops on the receptive silk,
and the kernel is produced. Now when this polen falls on the re-
ceptive pistil it is carried down to the ovary and the pistil then with-
ers away and the seed is developed in due course.

In hybridization and cross fertilizing the following conditions
must be observed:

54 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

First—The flower must be prevented from fertilizing its own
pistil. This is done by clipping off with a fine curved scissors (a
manicure or embroidery scissors will answer) all the stamens and
corolla, leaving only the pistil standing. This is called emasculating
the flower.

Second—Means must be taken to prevent fertilization by insects
or the wind. ‘This is accomplished by ‘‘bagging’’—enclosing the
pistil after the stamens have been removed in a httle bag of tissue
paper, closely tied to the branch (or stalk of flower) on which
the flower is growing, so that no insects can get inside the paper
bags to feerilize the pistil.

Third—When the pistil becomes receptive a slight moisture
forms on the top of the pistil (called the stigma), and a watch for
that condition must be kept (this generally occurs in the bright warm
forenoon) ; when this is observed a staminate flower from which the
polen is to be taken is picked and brought conveniently near the
emasculated flower that is to be fertilized. This staminate flower must
be in about the same stage of development as the flower to be fer-
tilized. Anyway, it must show the polen in a powdery state on the
stamens. Then dust the polen on the moist stigma of the pistil either
direct from the flower or with a soft camels hair brush; replace the
tissue paper capsule for a couple of days and the work is done.
After the pistil withers there is no further danger of objectionable
fertilization, and the tissue paper bag may be removed. It is well to
treat several flowers in the same way at the same time to avoid the risk
of failure. Next tie a label to the branch that the flower is on, to
enable you to identify the fruit later on and make a record of the
names of each as to sex. This is generally done by naming the female
flower first and the male after, thus (Gravenstein and Baldwin).
It must be remembered that the result of hybridization will show no
difference from the other fruit on the tree, at least not necessarily.
It is the seed of that fruit that is altered by the process and the
PRODUCT OF THAT SEED will be more or less changed. You
must therefore be careful not to permit any one to pick or meddle
with the inoculated fruit, or your labor will be lost. Most of those
hybridized seeds should be planted in moist sand, not kept wet, but
not allowed to dry out. Apples, pears, strawberries, mushy small
fruit, and hardy stone fruit are generally treated by ‘‘stratification,’’
that is, placing them in layers in a box of moist sand, with a cover
that will exclude the mice (for mice will find and eat every one of

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 55

them if they can get at them). They are then placed where the frost
WILL GET AT THEM in the winter and may freeze them sold. In
the spring they are taken up and planted in a border where they
will sprout right away.

I would strongly urge flower-loving ladies to practice the art.
They will soon become expert, and the enjoyment will be unexcelled.
They can practice upon their house flowers. The fuscia, for instance,
is of a very simple formation and well adapted to practice on; also
the tulip and gladiolus, and lily; afterwards they can try some more
complicated flowers. The same general principles apply to all. The
Salvia Splendens and Salvia Patens have a great promise, the Salvia
Patens being the finest blue in the floral world and the Splendens,
with its unmatched brilhaney, I believe, have not yet been tested in
this way and promise great results.

Nature has many varied and interesting methods of cross fer-
tilizing flowers; some by the action of the wind and gravitation, as
in the corn plant, the staminate flower being produced at the top of
the plant and the pistilate lower down. When the polen is ripe it falls
in a shower on the receptive pistils (the silk). It is also blown about
by the wind, so that different varieties of corn planted near each
other get ‘‘mixed’’ and the seed will not produce the true type of
that originally sown. The cucurbits (or melon, cucumbers, squash,
ete.) have the same tendency to ‘‘mix’’ or become cross polenized,
they having the staminate and pistilate blossoms on the same plant,
but separate from another, and in this case the staminate flowers
vastly outnumber the pistilate. On the other hand, the holly has
the two classes of flowers on different trees, and the tree will not
bear its beautiful scarlet berries unless it has perfect flowers or has
a staminate flowered tree in its vicinity. Some plants (such as the
sweet pea and others of the same family) fertilize themselves before
the flower opens, and consequently do not get ‘‘mixed,’’ if growing
close together. This is important to the hybridizer, as showing the
necessity of emasculating the flower to be hybridized before they
fully open to prevent self fertilization. Again, some fruit have not
the power of self fertilization, as the Bartlett and Beurre d’Anjou
pear. A remarkable illustration of this peculiarity occurred some
years ago in Oregon, near Salem, where a gentleman came into
possession of 160 acres and began to cast about what to do with it.
At that time Oregon apples and pears had a high reputation on the
Pacific Coast, and he interviewed some of his neighbors who had

56 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

commercial orchards, and they advised him NOT to have many
varieties, but have enough of one variety to produce carload lots of
fruit of a kind. This was good, sound advice, as far as it went. Our
friend studied over the matter and found that most of the orchards
were chiefly given over to apple culture. He also found that not
very many pears were grown in his vicinity, and that pears fetched
a higher price in the market than apples, and that the Bartlett pear
always stood at the head of the market. As he had plenty of money
to enable him to indulge his own desires, he decided to plant his 160
acres with a solid block of Bartlett pears. Consequently he gave a
contract to a local nursery man to furnish and plant 5,500 Bartlett
pears, which was accomplished in first-class style. It was a picture
to see those trees growing in rows half a mile long and as straight
as a line could make them. The gentleman took the greatest pride
in his pear orchard, keeping it well cultivated, not allowing a weed
to grow on the whole quarter section, and waited for the time for
fruitage to come. But alas, no fruit came, and, unlike the House of
Israel, described by the prophet as a vineyard that brought forth
wild grapes, this pear orchard did not even bring forth wild pears,
but was utterly barren and unproductive. He now thought it well
to see what the Agricultural college men had to say about it, which
he should have done before he started in. The first question asked
by the professor was: ‘‘ Were there only Bartlett pears in the block?”’
‘‘Yes, only Bartlett pears, and they were always so thrifty.’’ ‘‘There
was your error. The Bartlett pear is not self fertile and requires
other varieties planted in close proximity to fertilize the flowers.’’
Consequently he had to dig up or graft over a large number of the
trees and plant other varieties.

The fig is an example of a very interesting peculiarity in fer-
tilization. There are three classes of fig trees, the Capri (or wild fig),
growing in Symra; the fruit bearing fig, growing also in Smyrna,
and the Adriatic. There is a peculiar kind of wasp that breeds in
the Capri or wild fig, and unless those Capril figs at the proper sea-
son are removed and hung up in the Smyrna fig tree it will not be fer-
tilized. The Adriatic fig, not having any Capril figs near, cannot
be fertilized and only produce an inferior class of figs, but its seed
is non-productive. The flowers of the fig are inside the fruit, and
to be fertilized the wasp crawls in and fertilizes them; consequently
the best figs in the market are (or rather have been) the Smyrna
fig. In California in the early days the mission padres imported the

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 57

inferior Adriatic figs. Of late years, however, the Capri fig and its
little wasp has been introduced into that state, and now the produce-
tion of the true Smyrna fig is an accomplished fact in California.
The California Smyrna fig outranks the imported variety.

GRAFTING AND BUDDING.

The necessity of testing the result of our hybridizing as soon as
possible leads up to the subject of grafting and budding, which every
horticulturist should understand and be able to practice. I will
now describe the ‘‘modus operandi’’ thereof.

Cleft Grafting Cion for Grafting
Fig. 53 Fig. 54

Grafting and budding are modifications of the same process and
have the same object in view, that is, to reproduce a variety of fruit
or flower from the bud of one already in existence. Grafting
is of several varieties, such as root grafting, crown grafting, whip
crafting, wedge or cleft grafting and shield grafting. For sub-
urbanite’s use, however, the cleft and whip grafting are the only
varieties likely to be practiced. Root grafting is done in the winter,
and may be done in the house and by the fireside and packed in a
box of moist earth and kept in the cellar or buried till the spring
and then planted in the nursery. In the case of the apple,
pieces of apple roots, about four to six inches long and about the
thickness of a lead pencil, are secured as a stock, and cions of the
same thickness are grafted in the same manner as whip grafting,
which will be described further on. It is chiefly used by nurserymen
for propogating large quantities of nursery stock during the dormant

58 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

season, when other work is not so pressing, and several pieces of root
may be taken from the same tree. While crown orafting requires a
whole root for one graft and is intended to be set below the
eround where the cion will throw out roots of its own in addition to
the original root it is grafted into. The cleft grafting is done in the
spring, when the sap begins to flow in the stock, the cions having
been cut in the dormant season and stuck in a box of moist soil in
the cellar, or are simply stuck in the ground at pruning time,
preferably in the shelter of a north wall, the object being to keep
them back from sprouting till after the stock has fairly started.
The stoek is cut off with a sharp pruning knife or shears, and taking
a sharp chisel and malet the stock is split sufficiently to allow the

Ve

Whip Grafting
Fig. 55

cion, after it has been eut sloping or wedge shaped, to be inserted
into the eleft in the stock, taking care that the cut edges of the
shaved eion are accurately adjusted to the edge of the bark in the
stock. Generally, the split stock will hold the cion sufficiently secure
without tying. The whole point of union is filled up and covered
with grafting wax to protect the recently cut portions from exposure
to wind, water or sunshine (see cuts illustrating this subject). Some-
times it is convenient to bind up the joint with waxed string, de-
seribed further on. Whip grafting is used for small branches or
young seedlings, where the cion should be of about the same diameter
as the stock. Both are eut slanting, and with a harp knife a split is
cut downward in the stock, commencing at the middle point of the

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 59

sloping cut; a similar split is made upwards in the cion, and both
are locked in each other, as shown in cut, taking care to have the
inner line of bark of each in accurate adjustment at least on one side.
The whole length of the joint is bound tightly with waxed string,
the cion, with only one sound bud, projecting above the waxed
wrapping. In the cleft grafting it is well to put in two cions, one
on each side, and after they have fairly started to grow, one shoot
can be eut off, leaving only one to obtain all the sap and strengthen
its growth.

The great advantage of grafting as compared with budding con-
sists in the fact that if from any cause the graft fails to grow, being
done in the early spring, one can bud the same stock in the summer
and save the loss of a whole season. The stone fruits are generally
better adapted to budding. Both grafting and budding are equally
adapted to floral work as to fruits.

The operation of budding, although for the same purpose as
grafting, is distinetly different in the modus operandi. In the first
place, it is performed in summer when the sap is in full flow and
when the bark will lift freely from the wood, both of the stock and
bud stick. The process is simple, however, and is specially useful
in training dwarf trees to secure uniformity and a balance of
growth. For instance, in training Palmetto forms and _ other
fancy shapes we are often hindered by side shoots not starting
where we desire them, insomuch that the nursery man or private
eultivator will start to make his tree of a particular form, when the
willful little thing takes the notion to follow its own sweet will,
regardless of consequences, and it becomes less trouble to give way
and let it take its own natural form than to fight it out; nevertheless
by budding we can enforce the growth of a shoot just where we
desire it to be. This will be apparent from the cuts. Sometimes in
growing cordons the stems fail to furnish sufficiently with fruit
spurs and we can then put in one or more buds in any position along
its stem.

Having selected a suitable stock for budding, it is necessary
to procure sufficient plump buds; these are generally taken of the
new or current season’s growth by eutting off a shoot with several
buds upon it; this is called a ‘‘bud stick.’’ Of course only one bud
is used in a place, but as many may be inserted as we find suitable
room for. We now select a smooth spot in the bark of young wood
and eut a T down to the cambrium or sap wood, lift the bark on

60 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

both sides of the upright cut, then we take the ‘‘bud stick’’ and
selecting a plump bud, make a horizontal incision about one-eighth
of an inch above the top of the bud, then turning the bud stick with
its top pointing downwards, make a cut beginning one-fourth to
one-half inch below the base of the bud and cut upwards and deeper
than the bud, until the cut meets the horizontal cut already made
and a little shield is separated with a square top and the bud in
the center. Sometimes we will find a lttle spicula of wood still ad-
herent to the back of the bud with a lttle ‘‘nipple’’ of soft wood
entering the base of the bud. By inserting the point of a knife
under the lower end of this wood it is easily lifted free from the
bark; some times it will stick pretty firmly. It is a mooted
question whether it is best to remove it; some do, which
is the English system, and again some do not, which is the Ameri-
ean. As far as my experience teaches I do not think it matters
very materially. If I can remove it without injury to the bark of
the bud, and it lifts easily, I generally take it away; if not, I leave
it in its natural position and I find no great difference in the result.
We now have a little shield of bark, with an uninjured bud thereon,
and we lift up the flaps of loosened bark on the stock and slip the bark
with the bud on under the loosened bark, being careful to adjust the
upper end of the bark shield accurately to the horizontal cut on the
stock. THIS IS IMPORTANT. Then tie the bark tightly, both
above and below the bud, with a soft string, no grafting wax being
necessary. It is well if possible to have the stem of the leaf attached
to the bud, only clipping off the expanded part, as it will assist in
handling the bud and by its condition in a few days will show
whether the bud has ‘‘taken’’ or not. We now leave the bud alone
for a week or ten days, when the string must be loosened or entirely
removed.

‘““The reason why’’ will give an intelligent idea of the process.
In grafting the work is done in the spring and the graft grows and
is nourished by the ASCENDING SAP. While in budding the
work being done in summer, the new bud remains dormant, but is
nourished by the DESCENDING SAP that is elaborated in the leaves
as it flows downward to nourish the roots. The sap flowing between
the ‘‘eambrium’’ (or sap wood) and the inside of the bark shows
the necessity of having the inner bark of both stock and cion
accurately adjusted to facilitate the flow of sap from one to the
other. <A eareful study of the accompanying cuts will better eluci-

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 61

date this branch of my subject than pages of letter press, and here
I would recommend to my readers to take advantage of any oppor-
tunity they may have to get someone knowing how to show them
the manipulation of the process. One practical example will be
ample instruction, and success will be the result of practice and
painstaking.

GRAFTING WAX is made after many formula, but one of the
best is: Take of tallow 1 oz., bees’ wax 2 oz., rosin 4 oz.; melt all
together into a uniform fluid condition by stirring and pour into
cold water; when cool enough to handle, having first greased your
hands, pull it as if pulling candy until it attains a straw eolor and
roll into convenient stick, when it will harden, and keep in a cool
place. When requiring to use it, again grease your hands and work
it up until sufficiently softened, and press it with your fingers
close around and filling all crevices about the point of junction of
stock and cion, from which it need not be removed as it will grad-
ually wear away as the tree grows.

GRAFTING CLOTH is more convenient in many ways and is
made by tearing strips about one inch wide of any old materials at
hand, similar to rags used for making a rag carpet. These strips,
however, need not be sown together, but rolled as tape or a bandage
is rolled, the end of one piece simply overlapping the other. When
the roll is sufficient size for handling, one and one-half to two
inches in diameter, the free end of the last strip is tied loosely on the
roll with a thread to prevent unrolling, and is thrown into a vessel
of hot melted grafting wax, where, by stirring it round and squeezing
it with a stick, it will become saturated with the hot wax and may
be taken after squeezing out excess of wax and laid aside to cool.
When required for use sufficient of the strip of waxed cloth is un-
rolled and wound around the graft in a spiral manner, each turn
cverlapping the previous one-half or one-quarter inch, when the
union will take place underneath. As the branch or vraft vrows.
if it shows any sign of contraction or swelling above or below the
wrapping it must be slackened sufficiently to prevent strangulation.
The importance to the suburbanite of a knowledge of budding and
grafting will be seen from an examination of the various forms of
training dwarf trees shown in the cuts. Much of the beauty of
those trained trees depends upon the success gained in securing
uniformity and balance in the product, especially in the Palmetto
and Vernier forms. If we fail to secure shoots for frame of tree

62 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

exactly where desired, the tree will become lop-sided and ungrace-
ful, and as sometimes these trees fail to put out shoots exactly in
balance we can secure uniformity by inserting one or more buds
just where required, and thus ‘‘save its face,’’ which, without the
knowledge of grafting and budding, we would be compelled to rele-
vate the specimen to the less attractive form of the ordinary bush
in a ‘‘happy go lucky”’ or “‘hit or miss’’ style. Again, in ease of fail-
ure from any cause of one of these trees to furnish fruit spurs along
the stem and leaving irregular bare spots unfurnished, we can amend
the fault by budding where required.

2%

ex
+. -.

Bush tree 4 years’ old Pyrimid in October
“Cox’s Orange Pippin From Photo
Fig. 56 Fig. 57

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 63

DWARF FRUIT TREES FROM A COMMERCIAL FRUIT GROW.
ER’S POINT OF VIEW.

While the adaptability of dwarf fruit trees to the suburbanite’s
requirements is now an established fact, its applicability to the con-
ditions of the commercial orchardist is still open to controversy and
worthy of consideration. While the suburbanite may have little or
no experience, the commercial orchardist knows just what he wants
and can form as sound an opinion for himself and is just as capable
of weighing arguments that I submit as I am. For a numbers of
years I have been a commercial orchardist and have fought the
fruit pests in every available manner. I remember long ago, before
fruit pests had become so multiplied and spraying was invented,
that we grew fine fruit with little difficulty. We had, of course,
the ecodling moth and the curculio and a host of other fruit pests,
but nothing to compare with the present condition of things, and
there seems to be little show of improvement with all our advanced
knowledge and extra work. What we want is to be able to reduce
the amount of work and make what is absolutely necessary easier.
We require to reduce the size of our trees to reduce the labor of
thinning, spraying, picking, lessen the number of windfalls, increase
the yield of fruit, and, above all, improve the quality and beauty
of our fruit, and early bearing of the trees, and thereby increase
the prices and profits of our orchards. All these objects may be
attained by the intelligent adoption into our system of orchard man-
agement of the use of dwarf fruit trees.

It has been demonstrated beyond question that the dwarfing
of fruit trees has the effect of increasing the prolificacy and early
bearing as well as the size, beauty and quality of the fruit. It has
been found that these apple trees dwarfed on Paradise stock will
begin to bear the second year from the bud, sometimes even the
first year, and by the fourth, will frequently bear one bushel or
more of choice apples. It must be remembered that these little trees
may be planted only four feet apart, and under some circumstances
even less; they may be taken up and moved from place to place,
and from time to time, without interrupting their fruit bearing. The
following is a report of an experiment in growing apples dwarfed
on Paradise stock to establish their yield in England:

Apple tree planted (a Warner’s King).
1871—Planted a ‘‘maiden’’ tree.

64 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

1872—_Bore three apples, first year.

1873—Bore 11% peck, second year.

1874—Bore 2 peck, third year.

1875—Bore 4 peck (1 bushel), fourth year.

1876—Bore 6 peck (14% bushels), fifth year.

1877—Bore 7 peck (134 bushels), sixth year.

Total in first six years 201% peck (5 bushels).

Now in view of these figures let us make a comparison between
one standard apple tree and a block of Paradise dwarfs, occupying
the same space. We will say a standard apple tree (to do its best
work) should be planted 40 feet apart, that is requiring 1,600 square
feet or 27 trees to the acre, while the Paradise trees are 2, 3, 4, 6 or 9
feet apart, according to the style adopted. Let us take as a basis

oft Roadway

Standard Apple Trees planted 4o feet apart require 1600 feet area and be-
gin to bear in 6 or 8 years. While 64 Bush Trees may be planted on same
1600 feet and begin bearing the 2d year from planting. After Thornton.

Fig. 58

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 65

for comparison, Paradise trees at 4 feet apart. That is, the standard
apple trees occupies a space of 1,600 square feet and the Paradise 16
feet. Or, theoretically, 100 Paradise trees will fit on the same area
of ground as one standard apple tree; this is, however, impracticable,
as roadways must be provided for attending to the trees properly
(see cut). We will therefore be reasonable and plant four rows four
feet apart on each side of an eight-foot roadway, making 40 feet
each row would then contain eight trees, making 64 trees for the
block of 40 feet square and leaving an eight-foot roadway through
the middle of the plot; this would be equal to 1,628 trees to the acre,
not counting fractions, with proportionate roadway space. A little
practical figuring upon the basis of the foregoing table of the actual
yield of these little trees will give some startling results. We find
that one of these bush trees yielded in six years over five bushels
of apples, or 320 bushels from the trees occupying the space of one
standard apple tree THAT HAD NOT YET REACHED THE
BEARING AGE; consequently as only 27 apple trees, at 40 feet
apart, fit on one acre, 8,640 bushels of apples could be produced
from one acre (not counting fractions) of dwarf apple trees in six
years from planting and BEFORE ONE ACRE OF STANDARDS
PLANTED AT THE SAME TIME HAD COME INTO BEARING.
These dwarf trees would continue bearing increasing quantities of
fruit for 15 or 20 years longer, when the orchardist could well afford
to dig them up and plant fresh. The generality of standard apple
trees require five or six years to BEGIN bearing; the bush, on the
contrary, beginning to bear the second year and steadily increasing
its crop till 10 years old and continuing to yield steadily maximum
crops till 20 or 25 years old. On the other hand the standard tree
may be expected to gradually increase till from 15 to 20 years it
will yield about three barrels (nine bushels) per tree per year; from
this time until the trees begin to fail from old age, the annual yield
will be under 15 bushels. These are average figures for well cared-
for trees, and allowing for off years, poor years, and poor trees, or
badly pruned or moss-bound trees, will not do so well. The standard
tree will bear for 50 years, and it will average for good and bad
years 10 bushels a year, or 500 bushels in all. This, I think, is a
liberal estimate for one standard tree on 40 feet square of land.
Compare the above with the Paradise apple, or, rather, 64 of them,
for that number of trees may be grown on the same area of land as
one standard tree. One dwarf Paradise apple bush, as we have seen,

66 THE SUBURBANITEH’S HANDBOOK

will bear at an average 11% bushels a year, or 3114 bushels, which
multiplied by 64 (the number of trees on the 40 feet square allowed
for the standard tree) will give 2,400 bushels. Allow mar-
gins to suit yourself. Of course we will have the same
standard tree bearing for another 25 years, but we will
only have to wait for four years to plant another lot of 64 trees,
and have them catch up and pass the old standard and repeat the
experience which we can very well afford to do. But this is not all,
for it must be remembered that the dwarf apples are superior in
size, beauty, quality and selling price to those grown on standard
trees, and every apple on these little bushes is within reach of one’s
hand from the ground and may be thinned without difficulty ; there
are no windfalls to amount to anything; the work of spraying is re-
duced to a minimum. You all know what a tiresome job it is gazing
up to the sky looking for tent caterpillars’ eggs on a 40-foot tree,
while the same is only pastime on those small bushes. No packing of
awkward ladders in pruning time, or climbing trees in picking time.
Of course 64 trees require more attention than one and cost more for
a start, but the work is light in character and such as any boy, girl
or woman ean do, and most of it a real pleasure. Anyhow, who
would begrudge the work when the returns are so liberal. In the
above comparison my remarks referred to the dwarf apple in the
bush form, and as profitable even as it shows up with bushes at four
Yeet apart or occupying 16 square feet each, how much better results
may be expected if we use ecordons either upright or oblique or
U form, which may be planted in rows four to six feet apart
and only two feet apart in therow, occupying eight to twelve
feet in area, and yet are individually as productive as_ the
bushes—or nearly so. In this case, instead of 64 trees
occupying the area of one standard tree, we would have 96;
or instead of 1,628 bush trees per acre, we would have 4,224 oblique
or upright cordons. These figures may be astounding, but no more
than if we compare the old stage coach with railway trains of the
present day, or comparing the old-fashioned plough with the up-to-
date steam plough, or the reaping hook with our best harvesters.
Our little dwarf fruit trees offer the same gigantic stride in advance
in the horticultural field, combined with intensive culture. Nor is
there anything visionary in the statements, as they are established
facts, though not yet exploited to the same degree, but will be in
the near future, when we secure the irresistable combination of grit,

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 67

money and knowledge duly harnessed. Of course intensive develop-
ment of the dwarf fruit tree idea is more costly both to start in the
outset and in its subsequent exploitation than the ordinary commer-
cial orchard, but in view of the enormously increased returns of
profit this condition cuts no figure as all advances in industrial lines
are subject to the same condition. There is, however, in this horti-
cultural advance the great advantage that it works as well on the
limited area of the 40 feet square, or the acre, as it does on the 100
acres, being merely a question of capital. The labor question which
has been a bugbear to the horticulturist, may be worth consideration,
but is by no means difficult to any one who bases his every day
business on the golden rule. The increase of labor required under
this system is really very insignificant as compared with the returns,
and will follow the industrial experience in other lines of industry.
The present supply of labor is inadequate because the pay and treat-
ment of labor is unsatisfactory to the laborer. When the typesetter
was introduced, many worthless or indifferent printers lost their job,
but the better class were promoted to the machines with better pay.
So with other industries, but great adverse influences existed. The
captains of industry put up the prices to ‘‘all the traffie would
bear,’’ while they cut the wages to all the laborer would bear; on
the other hand, the trades union is started in ‘‘to kill the goose that
laid the golden eggs’’ by restrictive regulations, ete., both parties
being antagonistic to the golden rule. Under present conditions the
margin of profit to the orchardist is so narrow and the supply of
RELIABLE LABOR so scanty, the question, How to help matters?
is pressing, the answer will be found in adopting the dwarf fruit tree
culture, which will enable us to so materially improve the workman’s
condition, that he will so speak, quit the union and ‘‘paddle his own
canoe.’’ In this connection the story of the Westinghouse Com-
pany’s experience in England is very instructive. The Westing-
house Company is a celebrated American firm of world-wide reputa-
tion. They had oceasion to establish a gigantic factory in England,
one requiring the use of several million bricks in its construction.
At the start they found themselves ‘‘up against’’ the builders’
trade union, who would not permit their bricklayers to lay more
than 400 bricks in one day. The Westinghouse Company with Amer-
ican strenuosity nevertheless started the work, not only giving
higher wages than other builders were giving, but added premiums
and bonuses in accordance with the quality of the work performed,

68 THE SUBURBANTIE’S HANDBOOK

giving the shirkers and inefficient men immediate discharge. The
result was, as might have been expected, the union tried bluffing
and boyeott, but it would not work, and the men finding they were
treated with strict justice and liberality, ignored the union. Good
men were favored and drones hunted; walking delegates were not
admitted to the works; the good men put in the?r best work, and
from laying only 400 bricks a day, as at the start, soon achieved the
laying of 900 bricks per day as the ordinary day’s work. Let us
see now in what position the commercial orchardist stands to meet
the labor question, depending entirely on standard trees or substitut-
ing in whole or in part the dwarf trees. We have seen that a stand-
ard apple tree will average for 50 years 10 bushels a year, and the
cash returns will be less than an average of 50 cents a bushel, or $4
per tree; 27 trees to the acre gives $108 per acre. With dwarf trees
we have 64 bushes or 96 cordons on 40 feet square of land that will
vield for 25 years an average of 96 to 144 bushels per year from
the same 40 feet square of land. While the standard apples averaged
40 cents a bushel, these dwarf apples, being so much superior in
appearance and quality will reach an average of $1.50 or more per
bushel, consequently will return $144 to $216 per 40 feet square, or
multiplied by 27, will net $3,888 to $5,892 per acre. Again strike
your own margin. With such a showing we could afford to give
our workmen a rate of wages beyond their wildest imagination, and
steal the labor union’s thunder. The very best of men would be
tumbling over one another in competition to secure such employment,
and when they were lucky enough to obtain it would shrink from no
effort to retain it permanently.

69

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE.

x
*”
>
*K
He
K
*
*
K
a
x
=
”
4K
ad
xk
x
*
ad
mK

x xX
x m*

*

x #
* A

*

x
x

‘
im *

x
ry

¥

*

*

x AS R X &® KR + RE KF KH MR KR

Re eRe MR Re MH KR eK KK HK YX

x eK BR KX RK HK KF KF RK KBE KR KR Hw HR KH FR

Sat Sa See Se, ae a, Ge ea. 3

*

x xX x

x x %
en ee

kX B® F % M HR KH K
x» XxX * *&K® KK MH K

wt

K
OH
* * te RH ®

*¥ ¥ ®

x oR

¥

>

x * ¥ * MK FE KX ¥ KW B

®

x x
a *&

*

Xe MK KH KK RK ¥

me FF
ZnS
x eR HM KK KK &® Kw KX & BH KK KH KH KH K HR EF

% * Y * ¥
¥ OK Se
ye ® HB K K FF KF Hh *K

mx

x eK * KK KH K BWR WK ¥ HR KK RY KR *¥
KK * ke KR K KX HW RK KKH KH KR KX K HX

x * + KX F

* KF K K

RFK He eK BE RR *

¥ Ke XR RR BH *

es ye FF K HW K
:

x oF Ff

is

x
je

ES

¥ *
x *

aK

¥

x
Ps

*

Commercial Orchard. One acre with go standard Apple Trees 33

x
*

*
*

x
a

x %

ft. apart and 486 Bush Trees as fillers

Fig. 59

70 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Fig. 59 shows another style of orchard planting, where dwarf
trees are used as ‘‘fillers’’ in COMBINATION WITH standards.
In this place standard apple trees are planted two rods apart (33
feet), which allows 40 standards to the acre, and in ADDITION 480
dwarts on Paradise stock are planted eight feet apart, as shown. In
this plan each 33 feet square is supposed to be divided into quarters
and three dwarfs planted in each square, omitting the corner next to
the standard, leaving them without a dwarf. On this place no.roads
are repaired as the trees are eight feet apart, which allows carts and
sprayers to be freely moved anywhere among the trees.

Now just here comes the progressive American with iconoclastic
tendencies (that is me), and looking over the plan, says: ‘‘ What is
the good of these standard trees, anyhow? Why not dig them out
and fill their places with 160 additional dwarfs, making 640 trees to
the acre?’’ By so doing we will be changing the dwarf system from
a ‘““COMBINATION AS FILLERS”’ into a ‘‘DIRECT COMPETI-
TION’? with the standard plantation. The standards are a nuisance
anyway, requiring intolerable labor and cost for pruning, spraying,
pest fighting, thinning and harvesting the fruit, not to mention the
waste from windfalls, overbearing and the impossibility of complete
protection from infectious diseases and insect enemies, as well as the
long years of delay in waiting for them to reach a profitable stage
of produetion and the lower grade in size, quality, beauty and
market value of the fruit produced, as compared with the dwarf
trees. These latter have practically no loss of fruit from windfalls,
and all the cultural manipulations, while requiring to be performed
with due care and at the proper time, are so much reduced in labor-
ousness as really to be classed as a pastime and interesting occupa-
tion; but above all the early maturity, large size, high quality,
beauty and prolificacy as well as the higher market price of the fruit,
raises them far above comparison with the effete standards.

Bt

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE.

09 “BIT
MOWIOYL yy ‘“SpleyoIO [elOIIUTUIOD YzTAA
NOILILTAWOD Ul saeTy, JeMqE Bunurid jo saydqs ¥ Surmoys (ased yy 0} JOYS yd) *Y Hg~XSQI ‘o1OB BUO

WIL SID<L 2 we7r' 439A SI9LZ92G 488 SB8OLZO)/2 \ td ehh L2z2R '|
WA XZ ' | 2 OP Ce a ane Aol OXF
r 2p
|
' !
at 0/ —— —1--— -. —--—-

|
!
'
!

>
ke eee

{
|
'
1
,
(
|

ys!) wopsa7 ryb2A)) q
; |

| wes ia Bae We
oe ce
VE VAT X | (
| wee 4 & | |
er eae |
oe i a a 1
leer eee Hey |

jt ee RH eT! |
‘< Cr a a ee oo a! \ {
ite eee aw el |
jer ee eee el
re 1 ee |
je Re wee ee +! i {
ier ere ey 2! ! |
"ltd deal Ae olla ol '

tte eo .t * #) 2 i
ee a ie

72 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Having thus introduced the subject of DIRECT COMPETI-
TION as a stage in advance of mere ‘‘CONNECTION AS FILL-
ERS,’’ let us look into its capabilities a little more in detail. Fig.
60 shows a COMPETITIVE plan for laying out a dwarf tree or-
chard or garden. Here we take a piece of suitable land, 165x264 feet, .
which equals one acre of 43,560 feet, and lay out three eight-foot
roadways, as shown, dividing the plot into four one-quarter acre
lots, each being 4114 feet wide and 264 feet long. Right here comes
the first question to be decided regarding the style of trees to be
planted and the distance apart. We have bushes at four by four feet
apart, and oblique, upright and U shaped cordons to select from.
Let us compare the merits of each. With bushes at four by four feet
apart we could plant eight rows in each quarter acre, with 66 bushes
in each row. That would allow 528 bushes to the quarter acre, or
2.112 bushes to the full acre. These would come into bearing the
second year, and by the fourth year one bushel per bush might fairly
be expected; that would be about 514 bushels in the first four years
from planting, or 11,616 bushels per acre; and observe here that an
orchard of standard trees, planted at the same time, would hardly
show a solitary apple, although there might be 40 of them on the acre.

Now let us consider oblique and upright cordons, which amount
to about the same, the oblique having 25 per cent more bearing wood
than the upright cordons. The cordons may be planted two by four
feet apart. There would still be eight rows four feet apart in each
quarter aere, but only two feet apart in the rows, or 132 cordons
in each row: we would thus have 4,224 cordons to the acre, and would
practically bear the same quantity as the bushes above described, or
4.224 bushels the fourth year, or 23,232 bushels in the first four years.

This is almost beyond belief, but is merely the result of in-
tensive culture, a system as yet only in its infancy. Wonderful as
the above results may appear, the next plan will double up the yield.
Instead of planting bushes or plain cordons we advance a step and
plant U shaped cordons (see Fig. 60). We just double the bearing
wood on the same number of trees. U cordons being planted at two
by four feet apart. This last proposition I leave you to figure out
for yourselves, and yet that does not reach the limit by any means,
for we may further intensify intensive culture by planting those
cordons at only 18 inches apart in the row, which may be safely
accomplished. But I must stop here or my readers will think I am
‘‘oiving them a pipe dream.’’ I will therefore only repeat here the

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 73

words of St. Paul when Festus said, ‘‘ Paul, thou art beside thyself.
Much learning doth make thee mad.’’ He replied, ‘‘I am not mad,
most noble Festus; but I speak forth words of truth and soberness.’’

Fig. 60 illustrates this very clearly. It is meant to represent
a portion of one acre (cut off to fit on the page.) It represents 165
feet wide and if carried out to full length 264 feet long; in it are
the three eight-foot roadways, thus dividing into four one-quarter
acre tracts; on the left is shown a tract planted in upright cordons
at two by four feet apart of 4,224 trees per acre. Next comes a tract
devoted to bushes at four by four feet apart, or 2,112 trees to the
acre. Next we have a tract with globe or goblet form bushes, which
are a little more spreading and as set at eight by eight feet apart, or
528 trees per acre; and on the extreme right we have the U form
cordon with the same number of trees as the upright cordons, and
occupying the same space, BUT WITH JUST TWICE THE
AMOUNT OF BEARING WOOD; and if need be, you can intensify
this intensive culture by 25 per cent by planting those upright cor-
dons 18 inches apart in the row instead of two feet.

Naturally it may be asked here, ‘‘If these facts have been known
in Europe for ages, why have they not been commercially exploited
there?’’ Well, it is easy to ask questions but not always so simple a
matter to answer them satisfactorily. I will, however, give a scrap of
history connected with an analogous case that may point to the
answer: Over one hundred years ago there was a man who went
out to play with his boys and show them how to fly a kite, when a
thunder storm came along and the kite string got wet and thus be-
came a good conductor of electricity, and he found the current of
electricity was conveyed from the cloud to earth along the wet
string. This was Benjamin Franklin. The fact was established and
duly proven, but remained unutilized for many years, when another
man with his head screwed on differently came along and viewing
the conditions, brought his imagination to bear and said, ‘‘ Why
can’t we stretch insulated wires to conduct the electricity from. place
to place and utilize it where required?’’ and he stretched his wires
and sent the celebrated message from Baltimore to Washington,
‘What hath God wrought?’’ This was Morse with his knowledge,
imagination and faith, and since that time we have had the electric
telegraph in operation and exploited almost to the limit of possibility.
When another man comes along with more knowledge, more faith
and greater imagination, with head screwed on in an opposite direc-

74 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

tion to that of Morse and says. ‘‘Why not take those wires away
altogether and send our electricity to make it own path through
space?’’ This was a superhuman effort, and this was the immortal
Marconi. He established a dispatching station at one side of the
Atlantie ocean and a receiving station on the other side, with 3,000
miles of ocean between, having his skilled assistant at the dispatching
station with instructions to keep sending a message consisting of
the crooked little letter S and keep on till he received further in-
struction, while he, the immortal Marconi, stationed himself at the
other station to await results. At the time appointed both were on
duty, when Marconi felt (if he did not fully realize it) that there was
some influence being exercised on his instrument, indefiinite, uncer-
tain, but as the dispatcher kept on repeating the letter S its symbol
flickered and wavered till at last the finger of God traced that letter
S in the sight of Marconi as clearly and distinctly as that same finger
of God in long ages gone by traced the fatal MENE MENE TEKEL
UPHARSIN on the walls of Balschazer’s banquet hall, and we had
the wireless telegraph an established fact through the knowledge,
faith, and above all, the imagination of Marconi under God’s supreme
blessings.

Now compare our dwarf fruit question with the above serap of
history and note the resemblance. None of those developments
added anything to the inherent powers of electricity They already
existed from the foundation of the world, but simply were un-
recognized, and the men their heads screwed on in the right direction
to see the glorious vista spread before them and the imagination to
appreciate it had not yet come. So with the dwarf fruit tree ques-
tion. More than 1,000 years ago the Japanese gardeners became
aware of the possibilities of dwarfing fruit trees. Hundreds of
years later the system was practiced in Europe. Fruit growing was
practiced from the days of the Garden of Eden, and the industry
grew up in the long courses of the ages, line upon line, precept upon
precept, here a little and there a little, till we reached the present
state of commercial orchardizing. When a man comes along with his
head screwed on in the proper direction to see the glorious vista
opening before him of the future of dwarf fruit tree culture and
blessed with the imagination to realize it in all its detail and practical
knowledge of the subject, and although 75 years of age, with mental
activity sufficient to carry out his investigation in spite of the silly
vaporing of Dr. Ossler, who thinks men should be narcoticized with

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 75

eternal sleep at 50 years of age. And now I have personal knowledge
of the various stages and advances of fruit culture from the planting
of an apple or pear bud in the corner of a fence to the advanced
intensive orchard culture with both standard and ‘‘fillers.’’ When
the comparison between the standard and the dwarf fruit trees in
actual and direct competition comes up, I give my decision in favor of
the dwarf trees every time for those who will make them a hobby.

Among the simple questions that are hard to answer I am here
reminded of one in connection with fruit trees that is very curious.
Twenty-five years ago the apple tree tent caterpillar used to lay
their eggs in a circle around the terminal twigs and after the leaves
fell they were clearly visible to the naked eye and easily removed.
and in some localities the orchardist was in the habit of removing
them by bucketsfull and burning them, and not one lot in 10,000
would be placed otherwise than in a cirele as above. In the course
of years, however, as the fight became more strenuous between the
orchardist and the moth, Mrs. Moth learned the trick of plastering
the eggs in a flat layer on the upper side of the branch, where they
were invisible to the orchardist from the ground. Any experienced
and observant orchardist will corroborate this statement. Simple
question: How did Mrs. Moth learn this trick? I do not know, unless
Mrs. Moth in some way became acquainted with Whitcomb Riley’s
celebrated refrain,

THE GOBLIN

WILL GIT YE
IF YE DON’T
WATCH OUT!

This discussion on the adaptability of dwarf fruit trees to the
uses of the commercial orchardist, either in connection with standard
trees as fillers or direct competition with them under intensive
culture may be epitomized with advantage as follows:

Fruit trees have from the beginning been subject to certain
laws and conditions and the ignorance of such laws and conditions
throughout the ages in no way justifies the denial of their existence.
Just as in the ease of electricity, the inherent power of electricity
existed from the beginning, though Morse and Marconi did not come
to exploit them till the Nineteenth Century—nevertheless they
always existed.

Many discoveries have been made regarding dwarf fruit trees
that are now established facts fully proven and undisputable. Many

76 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

other facts have not yet been fully demonstrated, but that is no
reason to claim they are fallacious, but merely that they require
further investigation and practical experiment to fully develop their
full foree.

Of the many facts already fully established and beyond eavil
are the following:

First—Ordinary fruit trees are susceptible under certain treat-
ment to the dwarfing process.

Second—The dwarfing process has the power of reducing the
size of the trees, so that they may be planted at distances of 9x9,
8x8, 4x4, 2x4 feet apart, and even less.

Third—That the dwarfing of fruit trees hastens their maturity,
causing them to come into bearing in two years, and frequently the
first year from the bud or graft.

Fourth—Dwarfing also has the effect of increasing the yield of
fruit, enlarging and beautifying the fruit both in color and quilty
and enlarging its size.

Fifth—From the small size of the trees and their adaptability
to training in various faney forms they are especially adapted for
use in suburban lots or small patches.

In addition to this all the cultured manipulation from the nature
of the case are reduced to a minimum, and such operation as train-
ing, thinning the fruit, spraying, destroying insects, pests and dis-
eases, gathering the fruit and pruning, can all be done while standing
on the ground without the use of ladders or climbing the trees.

These are all well established facts and fully settle the question
of adaptability for suburbanite’s use. The above facts also settle the
question of their adaptability for use in commercial orchards as
‘‘fillers’’ to secure early and profitable crops of fruit while waiting
for the large standard trees to come into bearing.

When we come, however, to the question of full competition
with the large standard trees there are some facts and data that
require further elucidation, not because favorable conditions do not
exist, but merely that we have not yet exploited them sufficiently
for practical purposes.

Among those questions the most important probably is the
securing reliable data of the yield of dwarf trees when planted
‘‘en bloe’’ by the acre for commercial purposes. As I am not aware
of any extensive experiments having been made to settle this ques-
tion and consequently a reasonable conservative caution would teach

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURHE. 77

the wisdom of going slowly at this stage, but at the same time the
acknowledged merits of those dwarf trees are amply sufficient to
justify any progressive orchardist in testing the question on a limited
area for his own satisfaction, and I am now planning a series of
practical tests to secure reliable data upon this very important
phase of the subject and I expect the results will far surpass the
wildest imagination of the most optimistic orchardist, for no one
has yet reached the limit of the results possible to obtain from in-
tensive culture of any crop. Many years ago Orange Judd of the
American Agriculturist gave a prize for the largest crop of potatoes
to be grown on one acre, and if I recollect rightly, I think there were
720 bushels from one measured acre in the prize crop, while the
ordinary potato crop for the United States does not reach to more
than 100 to 150 bushels per acre, and I expect to see in the near
future (when the dwarf fruit trees come into actual competition
with the old and effete style of standard trees) the experience of
the potato grower far surpassed by the up-to-date dwarf fruit tree
orchardist.

In the foregoing I think I have made a fair comparison and
have been fairly conservative in my figures, and, I trust, have made
the subject sufficiently plain for the reader to arrive at an intelligent
idea on the subject. I think I have shown sufficiently valid reasons
to justify an unprejudiced trial of the two systems subject to your
own conditions. Far be it from me to recommend you to rush into
this work wildly, but go to work conservatively and try a few
dwarf trees to make sure you are right and then go ahead for all
there is in it. I will tell you frankly at the first word that if you
are a slack handed fruit grower you had better let dwarf fruit trees
alone, but if on the other hand you will take an interest in the work
you will soon regard these little bushes as little pets, and watch their
progress and development under your guilding care, and will grow
fonder and prouder of them year by year. In such case they will
amply repay all your efforts and prove a grand success outside of
any pecuniary return. So far I have considered the two systems
as opposed to one another and have not touched on the combination
of the two. This is a very important phase of the question and
worthy of careful consideration. We know that in starting a com-
mercial orchard of standard trees we require to wait five or ten
years to reach the bearing age, but what are we to do for a profitable
return in money from the land in the meantime? The practice has

78 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

been to plant potatoes, corn or other crops between the trees, but
this is not always advisable as the crops rob the young trees at the
very time they require all the nourishment within their reach.
Here comes in the advantage of dwarf trees as ‘‘fillers,’’ being
planted at the same time as the standards they begin to bear at two
years and yield profitable crops continuously long before the stand-
ards yield any return. The doucin and crab stock are most suitable
for this purpose, and may be trained as half standards. The mere
mention of this subject will be enough to draw the orchardist’s atten-
tion to its value and importance.

The commercial orchardist, while familiar with ordinary fruit
trees, may not have had his attention drawn to this subject of dwarf
trees, and may be desirous of more detailed information. I would
refer them to the first part of this handbook.

It has been found by long experience that some varieties the
different fruits respond better to the dwarfing process with the result
of producing a far higher quality of fruit than others, consequently
the European experts have made lists of seleeted varieties of fruit
that will afford the greatest satisfaction to the grower. One of these
lists I append. There are many other varieties which may be substi-
tuted for them without much disadvantage, but one must draw the
line somewhere and the high reputation of this list has been estab-
lished by good judges.

LIST OF TWENTY-EIGHT BEST APPLES FOR DWARFING.
(In their order of ripening.)
(C) for Culinary. (D) for Dessert.

Summer Apples.

MR. GLADSTONE—August (D). DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN — August
BEAUTY OF BATH—August (C). (D).
IRISH PEACH—August (D). KESWICK CODLIN—August and Sep-

tember (C).

Autumn Apples.

POTT’S SEEDLING—September (C). WORCESTER PEARMAIN—August and
EMPEROR ALEXANDER—September September (D).

to November. KING OF PIPPINS—October to Janu-
CELINI—October and November (C). ary (D).
STIRLING CASTIE—October and No- COX’S ORANGE PIPPIN — October to
vember (C). February (D).

ECHLINVILLE SEEDLING—October PEASGOOD NON-SUCH — October to
to January (C). January (D).

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 79

WARNER’S KING—October to Janu- HAWTHORNDEN—October to January
ary (C). (C).

RED ASTRACAN—August and Septem-
ber (D).

Winter Apples.

GOLDEN NOBLE—October to March BLENHEIM OBRANGE-— November to

(C). February (D).

BISMARCK—November to February MANNINGTON’S PEARMAIN—Novem-
(C). ber to March (D).

BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING—December to CLAYGATE PEARMAIN— November to
March (C). March (D).

GASCOIGNE SEEDLING — November COURT PENDU PLAT— December to
to March (C). May (D).

ALFRISTON—November to April (C). CORNISH GILLIFLOWER — December

NEWTON WONDER — November to to April
May (C). DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE—December to
May (D).

BEST PEARS.

Early Summer Pears.

BEURRE GIPFARD—End of July. JARGONELLE—July (Wall).
CLAPP’S FAVORITE—August. BARTLETT—August and September.

Autumn Pears.

DURONDEAU (DE TONGERS—October. PITMASTON DUCHESSE—October and
LOUISE BONNE DE JERSEY—October. November.

Late Summer Pears.

BEUBRE D’AMINLIS—September. JERSEY GRATIOLI—September and Oc-
MARGUERITE MARILLAT—Septem- tober.
ber. BEURRE SUPERFIN — September and
October.

Winter Pears

DOYENNE DU COMICE—November. JERSEY CHAUMONTEL, November and
BUERERE DIEL (ROYAL)—November January.

and December.
MARECHAL DE LA COUR—October OLIVIER DE SERRES—March.

and November. JOSEPHINE DE MALINES — January
MARIE LOUISE—October and Novem- to March.

ber.

Best Baking Pears

BELLE DE JERSEY—November to CATILLAC—December to March.
May.

80 THE SUBURBANITE'S HANDBOOK

BEST SIX PEACHES.

EARLY ALEXANDER—July.
NOBLESSE—August and September.
ROYAL GEORGE—August and Sept.

HALZ’S EARLY—July.
GROSSE MIGNONNE—September.
PRINCESS OF WALES—September.

BEST SIX NECTARINES.

EARLY RIVERS—August.
ADVANCE—August.
LORD NAPIER—August.

MOORPARK.

KIRKE’S PLUM.
VICTORIA.
GREEN GAGE.
MONARCH.

BLACK BIGARREAU.
EARLY RIVERS.
MAY DUKE.

WHITE HEART.

BROWN TURKEY.

CROWN BOB.
LANCASHIRE LAD.
RIFLEMAN.,
WARRINGTON.

WHINHAW’S INDUSTRY.

COMET (New).

RED DUTCH.

RABY CASTLE.

RED VERSAILLAISE.
FAY’S PROLIFIC.

STANWICK ELRUGE—End of August.
PITMASTON ORANGE—September.
PINEAPPLE—September.

BEST APRICOTS.

HEMSKIRE. ROYAL.

BEST PLUMS.

GOLDEN DROP.
POND’S SEEDLING.
JEFFERSON.

BEST CHERRIES.

ROYAL ANNE.
BLACK TARTARIAN.
STRANG LOGIE.
NOBLE.

FIGS.

WHITE MARSEILLES.

GOOSEBERRIES.

GOLDEN DROP (or Early Sulphur).
VICTORIA.

KEEPSAKE.

MAY DUKE.

WHITE SMITH.

CURRANTS.

WHITE DUTCH.
BLACK NAPIES.
BLACK CHAMPION.
LEE’S PROLIFIC.

The following list of selected dozens of apples for special quali-
ties may be of interest to persons wishing to plant choice varieties for

exhbition purposes:

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE.

ALFRISTON.

BISMARCK.

BRAMLEY SEEDLING.
ECKLINVILLE SEEDLING.
EMPEROR ALEXANDER.
GLORIA MUNDI.

BISMARCK.
CELINEE.
COxXx’S POMONA.

DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN.

EMPEROR ALEXANDRE.
GASCOIGNE’S SCARLET.

ALLINGTON.

BLENHEIM ORANGE.
CORNISH GILLIFLOWER.
COxX’S ORANGE PIPPIN.
DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE.
GOLDEN PIPPIN.

ALFRISTON.
BISMARCK.
CELINEE.

DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN.

ECKLINVILLE SEEDLING.
HAWTHORNDEN.

Large Size.

LORD SUFFIELD.

MERE DE MENAGE.
MONSTREUSE INCOMPARABLE.
PEASGCOD’S NON-SUCH.
POTT’S SEEDLING.

WABNER’S KING.

Bright Color.

HOLLANDBURY’S ADMIRABLE.
LADY HENNIKER.

MERE DE MENAGE.

RED ASTRACHAN.

THE QUEEN.

WORCESTER PEARMAIN.

Fine Flavor.

IRISH PEACH.

KING OF THE PIPPINS.
MABRGIL.

MR. GLADSTONE.
RIBSTONE PIPPIN.
ROYAL RUSSSET.

Heavy Crops.

KESWICK CODLIN.
LANE’S PRINCE ALBERT.
LOBED SUFFIELD.
POTT’S SEEDLING.
STIRLING CASTLE.
WORCESTER PEARMAIN,

81.

I will here make an extract from Mr. P. Le Cornu’s work on
eordon fruit trees that may be of interest. The cordon system of
growing fruit trees as adopted in the Royal Garden at Sandringham
Palace, is now becoming very popular, and deservedly so, for by no
other means can the same quantity of fine, highly flavored fruit be
produced in any given space. Apples, pears and plums succeed as
cordon, but more especially the foriaer. Pears are also very profit-
able when grown in this manner and produce an abundance of fruit
of larger size and better quality than that which is grown on pyra-
mids, or ordinary wall trees. For the following reasons I hold that
this is the best of all systems and firmly believe it would be adopted
by many more if they only knew the advantages which are to be de-
rived from it.

82 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Fruit of the Largest Size and Quality—Only one rod or stem
having to be supported, all the fruit borne is of the largest size and
best quality.

Wall or Espalier Covered in a Short Time—A wall or espalier
can be covered with trees in less than a third of the time occupied
in covering it with fan-trained or other trees.

Trees Bear Younger and Give Heavier Crops—The trees treated
in this way turn to bearing much younger and produce double the
crops which could be expected from a single tree, covering the same
space.

Upright Cordon Apples, 2 x4 ft. apart, in bearing—After Le Cornu
Fig. 61

Walls Never Entirely Bare—lIf one tree dies it can easily be re-
placed, whereas with a fan-trained or other large tree part of the
wall is left entirely uneovered for years.

Summary of Reasons—To sum up in a few words. By no other
means can trees be so quickly made fruitful. The second season most
of the cordons paid the cost of their purchase many times over.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 83

THESE REASONS SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES.

He says further, in speaking of his profitable cordon fruit gar-
den (See cut above): ‘‘The walls surrounding the illustration of
the profitable garden, show clearly the leading features of this sys-
tem. Single cordon trees with a quantity of fruit spurs already on
them should be procured of apples on Paradise stock and pears on
the quince. These should be planted at an angle of 40 degrees to
50 degrees, according to the height of the wall, about 16 to 18 inches
apart from one another. IN NO CASE SHOULD THEY BE
PLANTED AT A GREATER DISTANCE, as the roots would have
too much room for development and would cause the trees to run to
erowth instead of forming fruit spurs. I find it more convenient to
stretch horizontal wires along the walls at about every foot instead
of tying in the trees with nails in the old-fashioned way, taking care
to keep the wire three inches away from the wall, so that the spur at
the back of the stem of the cordon may have room to develop. Fruit
growers who are not the happy possessors of walls need have no dif-
ficulty in growing large fruit without this expensive adjunct, for
with the cordon system on wires magnificent apples and pears may
easily be grown.

The lines of wire are made fast to terminal pillars, five to seven
feet high at each end with intermediate pillars at every ten or fifteen
feet, the whole being tightened by means of raidisseurs or stiffeners.
The pillars may be made of wood or iron. If the former, they should
be made like an inverted cross and tarred or painted to preserve
them. Iron, owing to its lasting properties, is really the cheapest in
the end. All my pillars formerly were of wood, but have now been
entirely replaced by iron work. After much thought to the subject.
I have adopted the system here illustrated, which for rigidity cannot

be beaten (See cut No. 27). When convenient the rows of cordons
should be placed north and south, so that the sun may ripen the fruit

on both sides of the trees.

The Horizontal Cordons—<Are usually planted as an edging to
garden paths, and in this way they make very handsome objects and
oceupy very little space. Double horizontal cordons occasionally be-
come unequal in strength, hence I always recommend single cordons,
planted to follow one another in one direction. A line of wire should
be stretched 15 or 18 inches above ground. The ecordons should then
be planted (apples in preference) at every six or eight feet, and then

84 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

be made fast to the wire in such a manner that the part which is
below the wire may be perfectly perpendicular, after which the re-
mainder of the stem should be carefully bent down and tied full
length to the horizontal wire.

Diamond Garden Fence
Fig. 62

Diamond Fence Patterns (see garden eut)—Double cordon ap-
ples should be planted for this purpose at 18 inches apart. One of
the branches should be trained to the right at an angle of 45 degrees,
and one to the left at the same angle, the two forming togethr a per-
fect right angle, and as the trees grow the leading branch should be
trained in a direct line until the desired height is attained. This will
form a very picturesque and in many eases a very useful fence or
partition between two parts of the garden. A wire fence will be re-
quired the same as in the oblique system, and the distance between
the wires should be so regulated that the line of wire may pass ex-
actly behind the crossing of the branches, forming the corners of the
diamonds.

Upright Perpendicular Cordons (for very high walls and arches)
—Are recommended for arches, and when walls are at least 15 or 20
feet high and as the sap has always a tendency to flow upward it will
be necessary to shorten the leader back each season in order to de-
velop the fruit spurs along the stem. The varieties of apple, pear and
plum best adapted for cordons are those that have close-eyed and
short jointed wood. For cordon plums the soil should be as poor as
possible. Lime rubbish and rubble of any kind may be mixed freely
with the soil in planting and no manure whatever should be employed
except in the poorest of soil. Lifting these occasionally will prove
very beneficial.

Having given an English expert’s instructions in the art of
dwarfing trees, it may not be out of place to quote from a Japanese
source the instructions they issue to their customers and note how

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 85

Pie ye a
Upright Cordon Gooseberries. Only g inches
between the plants. After Philip Le Cornu
Fig. 65

closely they agree with the English practice, although they were ex-
perts in the art of dwarfing trees centuries before the English horti-
eulturists ever heard of the subject. To such perfection have they
brought the art that dwarf trees of over 400 years growth in pots are
to be seen at the present day, sound and healthy, still growing in
pots.

Treatment of Thuja Obtusa (a variety of the Arbor Vite)—Dur-
ing spring and summer, by preference, keep this plant in a sunny,
airy situation where the wind will pass freely through the branches,
water once a day, giving just enough to make the soil moist; in dry,
hot weather it may be necessary to give water twice a day, care, how-
ever, being taken not to have the soil wet, and never water unless the
plant needs it. Watering overhead in dry weather is bad, but rain is
always beneficial.

86 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

During winter keep the tree in a cool green house, partially
shaded or in an unheated orangery, giving water about once in 10
days; the soil, however, must never be allowed to get dry. (The
secret of successful culture of all plants in pots, consists in judicious
watering, giving too much or too little is equally bad. Maples and
other deciduous trees (such as fruit trees) take the same treatment
as Thuja as regards watering, but are much more accommodating
than evergreens. In fairly mild climates the maples may remain out-

S72
‘

Pear Tree, ‘‘Madam Treyve,”’ Sept.

Goblet form with 8 branches, to years old, 6 ft.
high, 11 ft. circumference, with 138 fruits

Fig. 66

of-doors all winter, but where the frost is very severe they should be
kept in a cellar after the leaves have fallen in autumn. The soil must
always be kept moist but not wet. Early in spring put the plant out
of doors and fully exposed to all weathers, and when in full leaf use
for decoration in doors as needed.

Manuring— When the trees commence growing in the spring, we
give manure twice a month, say March, April, May and June, again
in September and October. In the hot days of July and August we

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 87

give no manure, and the same in winter and spring, the plants then
being at rest; the best manure is finely powdered oil cake or bone
meal. ‘lo a jardinier one foot in diameter we give three or four large
teaspoonsful, not heaped, of this dry manure, spread evenly round the
edge of the jardinier—a larger or smaller jardinier will require more
or less—for a small jardinier, say three by six inches, half a teaspoon-
ful will be ample each time.

Repotting—This is done by us once in two or three years, as fol-
lows: Lift the plant out of the jardinier and with a sharp pointed
stick remove about one-third of the old soil around the edge and bot-
tom, cutting away a portion of the old fine roots, but none of the
strong roots, then replace the plant in the same jardinier, first look-
ing to the drainage. For a small shallow jardinier we use a flat piece
of stone or a flat crock over each hole; over this we spread some rich,
fresh soil to within half an inch of the rims; this holds the water and
prevents the manure being washed over the sides of the jardinier;
also the soil should be made sufficiently tight around the edges of the
jardinier to prevent the escape of the water, it being of the first im-
portance that all the ball of soil around the plant be moistened at
each watering. Should the watering of the plant at any time be
negleeted and the soil become quite dry, put the jardinier in a tub
of water for 10 or 15 minutes—NOT LONGER—and if the injury is
not too serious, the plant will recover. In the case of large plants
we use hollow ecrocks for drainage, the same as used by growers of
specimen plants. After several repottings the plant having increased
in size, shift into a larger pot, but as dwarfness is the thing aimed at
the smaller the shift the better. Repotting should be done in Febru-
ary or March, just before spring growth commences.

Pruning—T'o maintain dwarfness in trees, pinch back the young
growth; this we usually do from April to the middle of June, and
always with the finger and thumb. Flowering peach and lowering
cherry, ete., we pinch back to non-flowering shoots either before or
after blooming; in July and August we pinch back all young growth,
leaving only four or five leaves on each shoot. Maple and other de-
cidnous trees are pinched back in the same manner, leaving two to
four leaves, as may be necessary to maintain the proper shape of the
plants. Should a second growth be made the same rule is followed
of pinching out the points.

It will be noticed here the great similarity between the European
and the Japanese practice of dwarfing trees, and yet it must be re-

88 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

membered that while the European system dates back a few cen-
turies, the Japanese goes back a millenium or more.

The Japanese dwarfs, when compared with the European dwarf
potted trees, show a very distinctive difference in that the roots are
in large measure above the soil and exposed to the air. This is be-
cause in addition to their instructions for potting there is one manip-
ulation they carefully guard as a trade secret, and that is: Each year
when they repot the trees they plant the tree very shghtly shallower
than it was the year before, and although in young trees this is
hardly apparent, in the course of years it becomes emphasized and
eives the tree the appearance of growing on stilts. Among the fancy
forms of trained trees the Japanese gardener keeps in stock are ** The
Stork’’ (a favorite faney figure with them), ‘‘The Turtle,’’ ‘‘The
Chicken,’’ ‘‘The Rooster,’? and ‘‘The Hen,’’ “‘The Junk Full Rig-
ged,’’ and offer customers to train trees to any design they may order.
Of course there is no practical advantage in these fancy forms except
fun and fancy for the grower, and to enjoy that pleasure one had
better exercise their own ingenuity to do that work for themselves.

SPRAYING AND FRUIT PESTS.

This being intended as a hand-book for instruction of suburban-
ites who have little or no practical experience in the details of or-
chard work; it would be incomplete without some reference to this
very important detail.

During the past few years the fruit pests have greatly increased
in number and variety and at the same time our knowledge about
them and the means of combating them has also increased. The
means at our disposal for this warfare, while efficient, must be used
with energy and intelligence. To this end we must acquaint our-
selves with the nature and habits of these enemies and must there-
fore classify them. First we have two principal divisions. Insects
and fungi. The insect pests may be divided into those that feed by
biting the fruit and leaves and those that live by suction; the other
division is in the form of vegetable and bacterial enemies. The biting
insects are poisoned by arsenicals sprayed on the fruit, leaves and
branches. This spraying business is of the utmost importance, and
like some political parties voting, must be done ‘‘early and often.’’
As the result of spraying is perfectly suecessful in exact proportion
to the eare and thoroughness with which it is done, consequently it
will be both labor and money wasted if performed in a slipshod man-

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 89

ner. The spraying outfit consists of a receptacle for holding the
chemicals, which should be constructed of brass, copper or wood, and
the pump, which must also be made of brass or bronze, as no other
metal will stand the corrosive action of the chemicals; there is also
required a rubber hose and a spraying nozzle. Spraying outfits are
manufactured in great variety, from the brass garden syringe and
wooden stable bucket to the elaborate power machines, driven by
gasoline motor engines and tanks of several hundred gallons eapac-
ity, and capable of spraying two or four trees at one time. As there
are cheap sprayers on the market made of tin I will in this place add
an emphasized DON’T, DON’T, ever purchase a tin spray pump, for
it would rot out after the first use of Bordeaux mixture. Your spray
pump MUST BE either brass or bronze. As the suburbanite will only
have a few trees, and dwarfs at that, a very modest outfit will
answer his requirements. The simple wooden stable bucket with
brass hand sprayer is, of course, the simplest, and is fairly efficient
where only a small space and low growing plants require treatment.
The knapsack sprayer is a very convenient style for suburbanite’s
use. It is worn like a knapsack and is supplied in two styles, one
with direct action pump and the other has the fluid foreed through
the nozzle by atmospheric pressure. Both are good, reliable imple-
ments and give satisfaction to those using them. As the foregoing
require to be moved by hand from place to place, they are to some
extent inconvenient. To avoid this difficulty one has been introduced
on the principle of a barrel cart, which may be trundled about the
garden with greater facility. It is needless here to refer to the large
outfits operated by horse or motor engine power as they are un-
adapted to use in restricted areas. Having decided on the style of
tank for holding and carrying the fluid, we come to consider the
style of pump, and here I may say there is no ‘‘BEST”’ pump. All
that are now on the market are capable of doing fair work; that
pump is the most useful that throws the fluid with the greatest force
and with the expenditure of the least labor. It is the foree with
which the fluid is driven through the nozzle that secures the fineness
of the spray, which should be like a cloud or mist. We now come to
a very important element of the spraying outfit, that is the nozzle.
There are nozzles and nozzles (ad infinitum). As some nozzles are
lable to become clogged with little grains of lime, a provision con-
sisting of a movable pin has been added in order to clear away any
obstruction. Of this kind is the Bordeau nozzle. The Vermorel is a

90 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

very favorite pattern, but so many changes have been made (some
useful, others of no importance) that one is compelled to fall back
on first principles. Any nozzle in which the fluid enters the nozzle
chamber at one side and whirls around right angles to the outlet
hole, before being forced out, should do the work. Having procured
our outfit we are up against the question: What are we to do with it?
We had better here fall back on the first principles. We must use
it with energy, in the right manner and at the right time. Remember
that ONE thorough spraying when required is worth a dozen careless
attempts. As many of the materials used in fighting fruit pests are
highly poisonous the greatest care should be taken to keep all sub-
stances used for spraying where they will be safe from animals, chil-
dren and meddlers. And all such materials should be correctly
labelled.

Solutions and mixtures contain copper sulphate, corrosive subli-
mate and arsenate of lead, should be made in wood, glass or earthen
vessels.

Arsenical sprays should not be applied to fruits within two
weeks of the time they are to be used as food.

Trees should not be sprayed when they are in blossom.

Familiarize yourself with the habits and appearance of the vari-
ous fruit pests and the best treatment for their eradication.

FUNGICIDES AND INSECTICIDES.

These consist of quite a variety of mixtures, some used in liquid
form as sprays, come in dry form as powders by dusting, some in
gaseous form in fumigations, and some combined fungicides and in-
secticides, so as, if possible, to kill two enemies with one shot.

Bordeaux Mixture—lIs the first and one of the best fungicides
adopted for controlling fungus diseases. It has long been known that
the various salts of copper were destructive to fungus spores, and
sulphate of copper was first used in France to control the Phylloxera,
or grape fungus. It was found, however, that the sulphate (or Blue-
stone) contained so much free acid that it injured the foliage and
consequently something was required to naturalize the acid; this was
effected by the use of quicklime, and after experimenting the vinyard-
ists sueceeded in making a mixture of carbonate of copper (Bluestone
or Blue Vitroil) slaked lime and water, and this became known as
BORDEAUX MIXTURE. When the fungus fruit pests began to be
unbearable it was introduced into our orchards to fight the pests,

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 91

with varying results, as might be expected. The concensus of expert
opinion, however, was largely to the effect that it possessed real
merit, and that where it failed or was partially unsatisfactory was
finally traced to preventable causes. After long years of practical
and scientific work it has now been brought to a degree of perfection
and universal application as to render its use and result therefrom
absolutely certain of success if used vigorously, and with reasonable
intelligence.

FORMULA.

Sulphate of Copper (Blue Vitriol) four pounds.

Lime (unslaked) four pounds.

Water, 25 to 50 gallons.

Dissolve the bluestone in hot or cold water, using a wood or
earthen vessel, and hanging the bluestone tied in a cloth on the sur-
face of the water. Slake the lime in a tub, adding water cautiously,
and only sufficient to insure thorough slaking. After thoroughly
slaking, more water may be added and stirred in until it has the con-
sisteney of thick cream. When both are cold, dilute each to the re-
quired strength and pour both together into a separate vessel and
thoroughly mix. Before using, strain through a fine sieve or gunny
sack. This seems to be a very simple matter ; yet considerable trouble
has freequently been experienced in the prparation of Bordeau
mixture. Care should be taken that the lime is of good quality and
well burned and has not been air slaked. Lumps are far better than
fine lime, and are selected by masons for fine work. When small
amounts of lime are to be slaked it is advisable to use hot water.
Lime should not be allowed to become dry in slaking, neither should
it be allowed to be completely submerged in water. Lime slakes best
when supplied with just enough water to develop a large amount of
heat, which renders the process active. If the amount of lime in
the Bordeau mixture is not sufficient to neutralize the acid, there is
danger of burning the tender foliage. There are two simple tests
that will show this condition, one is to dip the polished blade of a
knife in the mixture. If the amount of lime is insufficient, a thin
coat of copper will be deposited on the knife. The other test is made
by dissolving Ferro cyandie of potassium in water (one ounce Ferro
eyanide to five or six ounces water), a deep brownish red color is
imparted on adding the test to the Bordeaux mixture, and more lime
should be added until neither reaction occurs. A slight excess of lime

92 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

is, however, desirable, and it is seldom one has to apply these tests.

Several standard strengths of Bordeaux have been established
and are known by the abbreviated names of the formulae, as follows:

Full strength (or 4-4-25, formula). That is four pounds copper
sulphate, four pounds lime, and 25 gallons water.

Half strength (4-4-50, formula).

6-4-50, formula.

3-6-50, formula.

2-2-50, formula.

3-9-50, formula.

The last three formulae are suitable for peach and plum foliage,
which are hable to burn when full strength mixtures are used. Bor-
deaux mixture is also on the market in a dry form and may be used
either alone or mixed with the arsenicals and applied with a powder
gun.

SODA BORDEAUX MIXTURE.

Copper sulphate, four pounds.

Water, 50 gallons.

Add enough soda lye to make the mixture alkaline to test paper.
This is merely substituting soda for the lne and has the advantage
of not clogging the spray nozzle, which the lime is apt to do.

AMMONIACAL COPPER CARBONATE.

Copper carbonate, five ounces.

Ammonia (26 degrees Beaume), three pints.

Water, 50 gallons.

Dissolve the copper carbonate in the ammonia. This may be
kept any length of time without injury if kept in a glass stoppered
bottle and can be diluted to the required strength when wanted for
use. The solution loses strength on standing.

COPPER SULPHATE SOLUTION.
(Strong Solution.)

Copper sulphate, one pound.
Water, 25 gallons.
Applied only on trees without foliage.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 93

COPPER SULPHATE SOLUTION.
(Weak Solution.)

Copper sulphate, two to four ounces.
Water, 50 gallons.
For trees in foliage.

POTASSIUM SULPHIDE.

Potassium sulphide, three ounces.
Water, 10 gallons.
Valuable for gooseberry mildews, ete.

INSECTICIDES.

(Stomach Poisons.)
PARIS GREEN—DRY.

Paris Green, one pound.

Flour, 20 to 50 pounds.

Mix thoroughly and apply evenly, preferably when the dew is
on the plants.

PARIS GREEN—WET.

Paris Green, one pound.

Quicklime, one to two pounds.

Water, 200 gallons.

Slake the lime in part of the water, sprinkling in the Paris Green
eradually and then add the rest of the water. For peach and other
tender leaved plants use 300 gallons of water. Keep well stirred
while spraying. Paris Green is a preparation of Arsenic, and a pow-
erful poison; great care must be taken in handling it.

ARSENATE OF LIME.
(Poison. )

White Arsenic, two pounds.

Sal Soda, eight pounds.

Water, two gallons.

Boil till the arsenic all dissolves—about 45 minutes. Make up
the water lost in boiling, and place in an earthen dish. For use take
one pint of stock, two pounds of freshly slaked lime, and 45 gallons
water, and spray.

94 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

ARSENATE OF LEAD.
(Poison. )

Arsenate of Soda (50 degrees strength), four ounces.

Acetate of Lead, 11 ounces.

Water, 100 gallons.

Put the arsenate of soda in two quarts of water, in a wooden
pail, and the acetate of lead in four quarts of water in another
wooden pail. When both are dissolved, mix with rest of the water.
Warm water in the pails will hasten the process. For elm leaf beetle
use 10 gallons instead of 100 gallons of water.

As arsenate of lead has now an established place on the market
it will be cheaper and more satisfactory to procure the ready made
article from the drug store.

ARSENATE OF LEAD.
(Ready Prepared Article.)

Arsenate of Lead, three pounds.

Water, 50 gallons; for coddling moth, and

Arsenate of Lead, five pounds.

Water, 50 gallons, for elm leaf beetle, and on potatoes.

CONTACT POISONS.
WHALE OIL SOAP.
(For Winter Use Only.)

Potash Whale Oil Soap, two pounds.
Hot Water, one gallon.

WHALE OIL SOAP.

(For Summer Use.)

Potash Whale Oil Soap, one pound.
Hot Water, six gallons.

KEROSENE EMULSION.

Hard Soap, shaved fine, half pound.

Water, two gallons.

Kerosene, two gallons.

Dissolve the soap in the water, boiling hot; remove from the fire
and pour it into the kerosene while hot. Churn this with a spray

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 95

pump till it changes to a cream, then to a soft butter-like mass. Keep
this as a stock, using one part in nine parts of water for soft bodied
insects, such as plant lice, or stronger in certain cases.

RESIN LIME MIXTURE.

Pulverized Resin, five pounds.
Concentrated Lye, one pound.
Fish Oil, one pint.

Water, five gallons.

Place the oil, resin and one gallon of hot water in an iron kettle
and heat till the resin softens; then add the lye and stir thoroughly ;
now add four gallons of hot water and boil till a little will mix with
cold water and give a clear amber colored liquid; add water to
make up five gallons. Keep this as a stock solution.

For Use Take

Stoek Solution, one gallon.

Water, 16 gallons.

Milk of Lime, three gallons.

Paris Green, one-fourth pound.

This sticks well to smooth leaves and is highly recommended by

some of the experiment stations.
LIME SULPHUR WASH.

Fresh Stone Lime, 20 to 22 pounds.
Flowers of Sulphur, 18 to 20 pounds.
Water, 45 to 50 gallons.

Slake the lime with some of the water in a large iron kettle,
sprinkling in the sulphur gradually. Start a fire under the kettle to
continue the heat begun by the slaking lime, and boil till the mixture
becomes a dark orange color, adding water till 35 or 40 gallons are
in the kettle. Boiling will probably take from 40 minutes to an
hour; stirr frequently ; a successfully prepared lot should have little
sediment when the boiling is finished. Strain through a fine meshed
strainer, adding the rest of the water and spray while warm. This
is a winter and fall wash, but cannot be used while the trees are
in leaf.

96 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

CARBOLIC ACID EMULSION.

Hard Soap, shaved fine, one pound.

Water, one gallon.

Crude Carbolie Acid, one pint.

Dissolve soap in boiling water, add the carbolie acid, and churn
as for kerosene emulsion. Use one part of this with 30 parts of water.

HELLEBORE.

White Hellebore, one ounce.

Water, one to two gallons.

Steep the helebore in a pint of water and gradually add the rest
of the water. Hellebore may also be dusted over the plants, either
pure or mixed with flour or plaster.

INSECT POWDER—PYRETHRUM.

Mix with half its bulk of flour and keep in a tight can for 24
hours; then dust over the plants.

Insect Powder, 100 grains.

Water, two gallons.

Mix together and spray.

COMBINED FUNGICIDES AND INSECTICIDES.
BORDEAUX MIXTURE AND PARIS GREEN.

Paris Green, if pure, six ounces; more if necessary.
Bordeaux Mixture, 50 gallons.

BORDEAUX MIXTURE AND ARSENATE OF LEAD.

With ready prepared arsenate of lead use five pounds to 50
gallons.

BORDEAUX MIXTURE AND ARSENATE OF LIME.

Arsenate of Lime (made by foregoing formula), 1144 quarts.
Bordeaux Mixture, 50 gallons.

TVORY SOAP.

Ivory Soap (10-cent size), one bar.
Water, 15 gallons.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 97

Apply warm as it thickens on cooling. Recommended for rose
mildew and plant lice.

FUMIGANTS.
CARBON BISULPHATE.

(Explosive—Use With Caution.)

Evaporate one pound of carbon bisulphate to every 1,000 eubie
feet of space. This is done by pouring the bisulphate into shallow
dishes placed in the upper part of the space to be fumigated, and
closing everything tightly and leaving it 24 hours. Then open and
ventilate for 10 minutes before entering or using anything that has
been fumigated. The vapor of carbon bisulphate being heavier than
air settles towards the floor. This treatment is effective for infested
erain, weevily seed, clothes moths, carpet beetles, ete., or any living
thing in closets, trunks or tight boxes where they may be placed for
treatment. CAUTION: DO NOT USE CARBON BISULPHATE
NEAR FIRE OR WHERE THERE IS MUCH HEAT, AS IT TAKES
FIRE AND EXPLODES EASILY, EVEN FROM A LIGHTED
PIPE OR CIGAR.

HYDROCYANIC OR PRUSSIC ACID.
(Deadly Poison.)
(For Nursery Stock.)

Potassie Cyanide (98 or 99 degrees).

Sulphurie Acid (1.83, sp. gr. commercial).

Water.

Multiply the number of eubie feet to be fumigated by .2 or .25,
giving the number of grams of cyanide for the house or box; divide
the answer by 28.35, giving the weight of cyanide in ounces. Take
twice as many fluid ounces of acid and four times as many fluid
ounces of water as was taken in ounces by weight of the eyanide.
Mix the water and the acid in an earthenware or graniteware Jar.
Then by a loose bag and string drop the cyanide into the acid after
closing tightly the place to be fumigated, with yourself safe from the
fumes outside. As soon as the cyanide touches the acid, fumes of
PRUSSIC ACID ARE DEVELOPED, THE INHALATION OF THE
SMALLEST QUANTITY OF WHICH IS SURE AND SUDDEN
DEATH.

98 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

Leave everything closed up tight for 40 minutes, then open from
the outside and air for at least ten minutes before entering.

HYDROCYANIC ACID.
(Kor Empty Houses. )

Potassie Cyanide (98 or 99 degrees) one ounce per 100 eubic feet.

Sulphuric Acid (1.83, sp. gr. commercial), two fluid ounces per
100 eubie feet.

Mix as directed for the last formula.

NOTE—I would recommend suburbanites unfamiliar with the
handling of these powerful poisons in fumigation not to use them
without the help of experts in the work.

SOLUBLE OR MISCIBLE OILS.

Recently the miscible oils have been put upon the market and
have now passed the experimental stage and have been found very
useful preparations for fighting fruit pests. Heretofore the formulae
on the market were proprietory and secret, and being too good a
thing to be gobbled up by monopolists. Mr. L. C. Penny has given
much attention to devising a practical method for the preparation of
miscible oils by means of special soap solutions. The soap solution
specially recommended by him contains:

Manhadden (fish) Oil, 10 gallons.

Carbolie Acid, eight gallons.

Caustie Potash, 15 pounds.

This mixture is heated to about 300 Fahrenheit,after which two
gvallons each of kerosene and water are added. A number of in-
secticide formulae have been worked out by Mr. H. Penny, both for
winter and summer use. The one he considers most efficient for
winter use contains 3 2-3 gallons of the above soap solution, 40 gal-
lons paraffine oil, six gallons resin oil, and water sufficient for the
desired dilution. (See Bulletin 79 of Delaware Agricultural Station.)

C. O. Haughton of Delaware Agricultural College has been ex-
perimenting in this direction, and he with other investigators has
found it necessary to use kerosene emulsion containing 15 per cent
to 20 per cent kerosene, in order to get satisfactory results in destroy-
ing seale insects. By means of miscible oils properly prepared seale
insects were effectually destroyed when only 10 per cent of heavy

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 99

oil was present in the spray, and it is believed that a considerably
smaller percentage will give satisfactory result. The most effective
formula for miscible oil thus far tested calls for nine gallons soap
solution, 144 gallons water, 40 gallons paraffine oil, and six gallons
resin oil. The above quantities are mentioned as being suitable in
preparing the oils for orchard use; but as it is only a matter of sim-
ple mixing the ingredients a very much smaller quantity would be
required for suburbanite’s use and may be made by a proportionate
reduction in the formula. Bulletin 86, Pennsylvania Agricultural
Experiment Station, treats also on this subject.

QUASSIA CHIPS.

Quassia Chips, eight pounds.

Whale Oil Soap, seven pounds.

The quassia chips are boiled in about one gallon of water to each
pound of chips for one hour. The soap is added while hot and
allowed to dissolve. This solution is then diluted with 100 gallons
of water. Use with sprayer; or on young trees the tips of the
branches affected may be dipped in the liquid. This is a very effective
wash for the aphis and is much used in Washington, California and
Oregon for spraying hop vines, as it is not poisonous.

I may here mention that the lime sulphur wash above men-
tioned when first introduced was called the Lime, Salt, and Sulphur
Wash, as it was made with a proportion of salt, the formula for which
was:

LIME SALT AND SULPHUR WASH.

Lime, unslaked, 30 pounds.

Sulphur, flowered, 20 pounds.

Salt, coarse, 15 pounds.

Water, 50 gallons; mix as above.

However, when the Agricultural Experiment Stations got to ex-
perimenting with it they found that the salt might be dispensed with
as superfluous.

All these spray formulae are taken from the bulletins, and re-
ports of the United States Department of Agriculture and different
Agricultural Experiment Stations and are public property.

In order to make this very important subject more exhaustive I
give some extracts from the instructions issued to his customers by
one of the largest growers of dwarf trees in Europe.

100 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

NOTES on the Prevention and Destruction of Insects, Pests and
Diseases affecting Fruit Trees:

Broadly speaking the enemies of plant life may be divided into
four classes :

First—The Aphides (Green Fly, ete.)—These have to be de-
stroyed by the direct application of insecticides.

Second—Leaf-eating Insects (Caterpillars, Slugs, ete.)—Fer
whose destruction the foliage of the plants must be poisoned.

Three—Fungoid Diseases Mildews, Blister, ete.)

Fourth—Mosses, Lichens, Scales and diseases of the bark which
ean only be effectually dealt with in winter when the trees are dor-
mant.

Before entering into details respecting the above I will enum-
erate a few remedies which are of easy application. Most of those
are best apphed in a liquid form so that a high elass syringe with a
fine nozzle is an absolute necessity. In large gardens a knapsack
spraying pump, such as the Vermorel or Antipest, though apparently
costly at first, will save its value in a very short time.

DIRECT INSECTICIDES.

The first among the following is a cheap, effective and easily
peated sprayings with formula F (including the Paris Green), first,
made insecticide, which I make an extensive use of in my nurseries:

(A). Take half a gallon of paraffine (with a little water added)
and two pounds soft soap, and boil these together in an old kettle
in the open garden. When boiling, carefully skim off the greasy look-
ing surface and then pour the paraffine into a tub containing 25
gallons of rain water. Stir thoroughly before using.

(B). Take four ounees of quassia chips and boil them 10 min-
utes in a gallon of rain water; strain them and add to the liquid
four ounces of soft soap, lengthening the whole of 214 gallons.

(C). Boil two pounds of tobacco leaf stalks in a gallon of
water, strain them and lengthen them to five gallons.

LEAF POISONING INSECTICIDES.

(D). The most effective of these is Paris Green Mixtures. This
is made by dissolving one ounce of Paris Green and two ounces of
fresh lime in 12 gallons of water. The lime is needed to destroy the
caustic properties of the Paris Green.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 101

(KE). Dissolve half pound hellebore powder and half pound
alum in tepid water and lengthen to five gallons.

ANTI-FUNGOIDES.

(i). ‘Lhe best anti-fungoid is the composition known as Bor-
deaux Mixture (described above). This and formula D are often
used together, in which case tour ounces of Paris Green will be re-
quired, but no more additional lime.

(G). Another good anti-lungoid spray is made by dissolving
five ounces of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) in warm
water, and lengthening this to 10 gallons.

(H). if the trees need spraying when the fruit is in a very
advanced state it is advisable to use the ammoniacal-copper solution.
This is made by dissolving one ounce of copper carbonate in a bottle
containing a little under half a pint of ammonia. The bottle will
contain sufficient to make 10 gallons of spray. It should be made
only as required, as the ammonia exaporates rapidly.

WINTER DRESSING.

(1). Dissolve in separate vessels one pound commercial caustic
soda and one pound crude potash; pour the two solutions into a tub
containing 10 gallons of water, and add thereto three-fourths of a
pound molasses (common treacle). This preparation may be had
ready mixed in five-gallon canisters (concentrated) to make 50 gal-
lons of spray.

APPLE AND PiAR DISEASES.

Most varieties of fruit have one or more diseases or insects
peculiar to them, but on the other hand several of these are common
to nearly all kinas of trees. ‘they will theretore be referred to under
heaauimgs ot the fruit trees most airected by their ravages.

Green Fly—Apples are frequently and pears occasionally sub-
ject to serious attacks trom these. They are, however, easily dis-
posed of by spraying with formula.

Woolly Aphis (American Blight) and Oyster Shell Bark Louse
(Seale) are two of the worst enemies of the bark and young growth.
Both are destroyed by painting or spraying the affected part while
the trees are dormant, preferably in December and January, with

102 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

formula I. The former may be kept down in summer by frequent
spraying of formula A.

Codlin Moth is probably the most familiar of our apple tree
pests. more especially so in the form of ‘‘ Apple Worm.’’ The moths
appear in May and June and lay their eggs at the blossom end of the
apple. There they are hatched and after a few days they enter the
apple by the crown, making straight for the core. There are three
things to be done: First, spray within a week of the fall of the bloom
with formula D; second, gather all apples as they fall and destroy
them ; third, place bands of hay around the stems of the affected trees
in July. Remove and burn.

Winter and March Moths—The caterpillars of these, usually
known as ‘‘loopers,’’ feed on the young foliage of apple trees and
occasionally even attack the bloom. It is of the utmost importance
that immediately they appear the trees be sprayed with formula D,
repeating the dose if necessary a few days later. Prevention, how-
ever, is better than cure and a study of their life history shows us
that though the male insect has wings the female is practically wing-
less. As it cannot fly it can only reach the branches of the tree where
it may lay eggs by crawling up the stem of the tree. They should
therefore be trapped by placing bands of oiled paper smeared with
axle grease (or any similar special preparation) around the stems of
the trees the second week in October, at which time they are about
to commence their upward journey.

Canker—The most frequent and at the same time the most de-
structive form of canker attacking the apple and pear trees is caused
by a minute fungus (Nectria Ditissima). Being unable to pierce the
unbroken bark it can only gain admission to the living portion of a
branch through a wound. Sometimes these wounds are caused by
hail, sometimes they result from punctures of small insects, but in
my opinion they are more frequently caused by bursting of unripe
wood cells, as explained below.

Having onee gained an entrance the fungus spreads rapidly
through the bark, which soon shows signs of being eaten away. In
the autumn months the presence of the ‘‘Nectria’’ may be recognized
by the minute white specks (not to be confused with American
blight) which may be seen nestling in crevices of the rugged bark
around the edges of the wound. These are the fruits of the fungus
which (while in this state) may be destroyed by painting them with a
solution of one pound of sulphate of iron, dissolved in a gallon of

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 103

water. JI have given much thought to this subject, fully perused
volumes of correspondence in the horticultural press, and have come
to the conclusion that in most cases of canker the state of the roots
is the secret of the mischief. Predisposing causes point to the best
way of preventing and restricting its work. It will be noticed that
canker seldom appears on trees whose roots are all near the surface,
but most frequently on trees which have tap roots whose sap is
drawn from the sour subsoil which, owing to its depth from the sur-
face, has not been ‘‘sweetened’’ by the heat of the sun’s rays. The
cells of the wood produced by such sap cannot be properly ripened
and on the appearance of cold the cells give way, causing the mark
to split, the ‘‘Nectria’’? at once enters and canker commences its
deadly work. The remedy, or rather the preventive, is to keep the
roots near the surface by frequent mulching of stable manure. Can-
kered branches should be pared around to the quick and dressed
either with clay and cowdung, gas tar or grafting paste.

Pear Midge—This is probably the greatest enemy of the pear.
The midge itself is a small knat-like fly, which in April lays its eggs
in the opening flower buds of the pear tree without in any way pre-
venting the fruit from setting. There are no signs of its presence
until a few weeks later, when those attacked commence to swell
abnormally and to assume deformed shapes. On examination these
will be found to contain a number of small worms. It is imperative
that all fruits attacked be gathered and burnt, else early in July
they will fall to the ground, turn to chrysalis and give a fresh
supply for coming seasons.

Pear Slugs—There are several kinds, but the most plentiful are
the grubs of the pear and cherry sawfly. They do a great deal of
harm, mostly in May, by eating not only the foliage, but also the
tips of the growths of pears and plums. Spray with formula D.

Cracking and Scab occur frequently on trees when the pruning
and roots have been neglected. A change of soil at the roots will be
needed, but the parasite fungi whose present prevent assimilation in
the leaf and development in the fruit can only be eradicated by re-
peated sprayings with formula F (including the Paris Green). First,
when the buds begin to swell; second, just before the blooms open;
third, when the blooms have fallen, and twice later at intervals of a
fortnight.

Mosses, Lichens and Scales—It is a pitiful sight to go through
many orchards where apple trees in particular have their bark

104 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

smothered with moss. Such trees cannot possibly grow or bear well.
It is essential that their bark be carefully scraped and that in
December or January they be thoroughly sprayed with formula I.
1 cannot too strongly recommend an annual spraying, as it arrests
all mossy growth and destroys all scales, besides ridding the trees of
insects which hibernate or lay their eges in crevices or under the
edges of the bark.

PLUM AND DAMSON DISEASES.

‘hese are very liable to attacks from GREEN FLY in an agegra-
vated form and will need one or two sprayings of formula A. They
are probably more subject to scale than any other fruit tree, and
must be sprayed in winter with formula 1, as shown in preceding
paragraph.

Red Spider—tIn both dry seasons the under surfaces of plum
leaves are liable to attacks by myriads of these, who suck the sap
and choke the leaf pores with their fine webs. A spraying or two
of formula A, to which has been added one pound of flowers of sul-
phur (boiled), will materially assist in eradicating these mites.

Wasps—Plums are probably more than any other outdoor fruit
lable to the depredations of wasps. Various wasp poisons are
offered, but there is always a certain amount of danger in poisoning
the fruit. By far the best method is to trace them to their nest at
night. This is easily done by closing up their entrance hole with a
soft rag, which has been saturated in a solution made of dissolving
24 ounces of cyanide of potassium (poison) in 11% pints of water.

PEACH AND NECTARINE DISEASES.

Blister and Fly Curl—These are erroneously attributed by many
to the work of Green Fly, whereas they are in reality caused by a
fungoid disease (Exoreus Deformans), which attacks the foliage
after a spell of cold winds. The damaged leaves should be picked
off and burned and the tree kept clean of flies by spraying of formula
A. The fungoid itself is difficult to dislodge and will require at
least two sprayings of Bordeaux Mixture (formula F) to cope with
its ravages. The first should be applied just before the buds begin
to swell and followed by a second and weaker spraying as soon as
the flowers have fallen.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 105

CHERRY DISEASES.

Black Fly—Cherries are very liable to attacks from these. As
soon as they appear the trees should be sprayed with formula A,
or better still, with the tobacco solution C, made slightly stronger.
It is often necessary to dip the tips of the branches in the solution
in order to destroy the fly.

The falling of cherries at stoning time 1s usually attributable to
the lack of lime in the soil. This may be remedied by freely mixing
a quantity of lime rubble with the soil around the roots. A very
beneficial autumn dressing for all fruit trees, but especially for stone
fruits, consists of 40 ounces Basig Slag and one ounce of Kainit to
the square yard as far as the roots extend. If the trees are not fairly
vigirous this may be followed in early spring by an application of
two ounces of Superphosphates and one ounce of Sulphate of Am-
monia to the same space.

GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT DISEASES.

Caterpillars of the gooseberry and currant sawfly may be dis-
posed of by dusting the trees with hellebore powder or spraying
them with formula E. Should there be any sign of mildew on the
plants the solution of liver of sulphur (formula G) may be sprayed
similtaneously with the preceding. Red spider, to which both are
liable, should be treated as for plums.

Big Bud—The black currant mite which causes this disease is
too small to be seen with the naked eye, but a diseased bud on being
examined under the microseope is found to contain myriads of little
worm-like insects. As these lay eggs practically all the year round
there is no effectual cure. It is advisable to prune off and burn all
affected parts and obtain all fresh supplies of black currant bushes
from an absolutely untained source.

Gooseberry Mildew—Spray with Bordeaux Mixture as soon as
the leaves drop in the fall, again before the buds break in the early
spring. When the first leaves have expanded spray with potassium
sulphide and repeat at intervals of ten days, if necessary, throughout
the summer.

The whole subject of fruit pests and spraying has been exhaus-
tively discussed by the Agricultural Experiment Stations in nearly
all the states and their Bulletins will be sent free on demand by
citizens of the different states publishing them.

106 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

It may be of interest in this connection to give a partial list of
some of the Bulletins upon this subject, published by different Agri-
cultural Colleges and Experiment Stations:

Bulletin No. 123, Massachusetts Agricultural Experiment Sta-
tions. ‘‘Fungicides, Insecticides and Spraying Directions.”

Bulletin No. 106, Agricultural Experiment Station of Nebraska.
‘Does it Pay to Spray Nebraska Apple Orchards?”’

Bulletin No. 113, Vermont Agricultural Experiment Station.
‘*Preparation and Use of Sprays.’’

Bulletin No. 154, Maine Agricultural Experiment Station. ‘‘ Paris
Green and Bordeaux Mixture.’’

Bulletin No. 49, Connecticut Agricultural Experiment station.
‘*Petroleum Emulsion for San Jose Seale.”’

Bulletin No. 23, Montana Agricultural College Experiment Sta-
tion. ‘‘Injurious Fruit Insects. Insecticides.’’

Bulletin No. 3, Vol. 4, Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture.
‘‘Summer Treatment of Seale Insects.”’

Bulletin No. 296, New York Agricultural Experiment Station,
Geneva. ‘‘Saving Old Orchards from Seale.”’

Bulletin No. 95, Arkansas Agricultural Station. ‘‘Notes on
Spraying.”’

Circular No. 120, University of Illinois Agricultural Experiment
Station. ‘‘Spraying Apple Orchards for Insects and Fungi.”

In addition to the above the experiment stations in almost every
state in the United States have published Bulletins or Circulars more
or less elaborate upon this subject, for which readers may apply in
writing. However if they will procure the above list and make
themselves familiar with their contents they will become fairly well
posted in details.

VARIETIES OF FRUIT BEST ADAPTED TO THE DWARFING
PROCESS.

The vast number of varieties of fruit listed in the nurseryvmen’s
catalogues is very confusing to the suburbanite when he requires to
make a selection for use. There are, however, some varieties that so
much better adapted to the dwarfing process than others, that this
appendix may prove helpful. While the commercial orchardist re-
quires only a few varieties, but enough of each to furnish carload
lots, and is compelled to conform to the market requirements as to

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 107

varieties, the suburbanite requires a greater variety and at the same
time should plant the best, AND ONLY THE BEST. The following
lists may be selected from with the certainty of most satisfactory
results. I would say here, however, that these lists by no means ex-
haust the choicest varieties, but I must draw the line somewhere,
and the following will afford ample field to gratify individual fancy :

APPLES.

The following abbreviations are used: (C) for cooking varieties,
(D) desert, (C and D) good for both purposes, (F C) show what
varieties received the first-class ceritificate of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society of England, which is the highest award given by that
society and is a guarantee of the highest quality. (*) signifies extra

quality, (**) double extra, and (***) of superlative excellence.

SELECTED DOZENS FOR SPECIAL QUALITIES.
Large Size.

ALFRISTON (C). LORD SUFFIELD (C**).
BISMARCK (CFC*). WERE DE MENAGE (C).
BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING (CFC*). MONSTREUSE INCOMPARABLE.
ECKLINVILLE SEEDLING (C). PEASGOOD’S NON-SUCH (C).
EMPEROR ALEXANDER (C). FOTT’S SEEDLING (C).
GLORIA MUNDI (C). WARNER’S KING (C*).

Bright Color.
BISMARCK. HOLLANDBURY’S ADMIRABLE (C).
CELINEE (cC*). LADY HENNEKER (CD FC).
COZ’S POMONA (C). MERE DE MENAGE.
DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN (D*). RED ASTRACHAN (CD).
EMPEROR ALEXANDER. THE QUEEN (CD FC).
GASCOIGNE’S SCARLET (CFC). WORCESTER PEARMAIN (CDFC).

Fine Flavor.

ALLINGTON PIPPIN (DFC). IRISH PEACH (D).
BLENHEIM ORANGE (CD*). KING OF PIPPINS (D*).
COBNISH GILLIFLOWER (D). MARGIL (D **).

COX’S GOLDEN PIPPIN (D). MR. GLADSTONE (D*).
DUKE OF DEVONSHIRE (D*). RIBSTON PIPPIN (D).
GOLDEN PIPPIN (D*). ROYAL BUSSET (D).

Heavy Crops.

ALFRISTON. KESWICK CODLIN (C).
BISMARCK. LANE’S PRINCE ALBERT (CFC*).
CELINEE. LORD SUFFIELD.

DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN. POPT’S SEEDLING.

ECKLINVILLE SEEDLING. STIRLING CASTLE (C).

HAWTHORNDEN (C). WORCESTER PEARMAIN.

108 THE SUBURBANITEH’S HANDBOOK

Some of the above excel in more than one quality and conse-
quently are more desirable. Detailed deseription of the above will
be found further on. While the above may prove a sufficient list
for the majority of suburbanites to seleet from, I will add a descrip-
tive list of 50 of the best quality of apples in order to furnish a
wider range for selection.

Descriptive List of Fifty Best Apples.

(For Suburbanite’s Use.)

DESSERT.

ALLINGTON PIPPIN (FC)—A richly flavored apple, result of cross between
King of Pippins and Cox’s Orange Pippin. Yellow streaked with red on
sunny side; good bearer; free grower; November to February.

BELLE FLOWER (*)—Large and excellent; skin smooth, yellow, tender; juicy,
crisp. November to January.

BLENHEIMS ORANGE—Flesh yellowish, crisp, juicy; good both for table and
kitchen use. November to February.

CHARLES ROSS (F C)—A Seedling from Cox’s Orange Pippin; large and hand-
some, solid, heavy, and high flavored. November to December.

CLAYGATE PEARMAIN—Medium size, richly flavored, highly aromatic, similar
to Ribston Pippin. January to May.

COX’S ORANGE PIFEFIN (***)—Medium size. There is no better apple grown.
October to February.

CORONATION—Medium size; resembling Cox's Orange Pippin; suffused with
red and streaked on sunny side. September to October.

COURT PENDU PLAT (*)—Medium, handsomely shaped. <A valuable desert
apple of first quality. In use December to May.

DETROIT RED—Above medium, entirely covered with uniform darkest red,
flesh suffused with bright red; of very fine flavor. November to January.
DEVONSHIRE QUARENDEN—Medium, skin almost entirely dark purplish red,

crisp, juicy and rich; the best early high colored apple. August.

DUKE OF DEVONSHIBRE—Medium, rich, crisp, juicy. February to May.

GRAVENSTEIN (*)—Large, popular, high quality; good also for kitchen. Sep-
tember to January.

GOLDEN PIPPIN—Well known for excellence; small size. November to February.

IRISH PEACH—lIarly and high perfumed, juicy and well flavored, medium size.
August.

KING OF PIPPINS—Medium to large; very handsome; crisp and juiey. October
to January.

MARGiIn—Small, richly flavored; one of the finest desert apples. November to
March.

MANNINGTON’S PEARMAIN—Medium, juicy, sweet, flavor rich; should be
allowed to hang late on the tree. November to March.

McINTOSH RED (*)—Medium, hardy, nearly covered with dark red; flesh white,
fine, juicy and refreshing. November.

MR. GLADSTONE (F ©)—tThe earliest desert apple; mottled red with yellow
streaks; carries bloom like a plum; very prolific. July.

RIBSTON PIPPIN—Medium,; a favorite English apple; flesh yellow, firm, with
rich aromatic flavor; very prolific. October to January.

RED JUNEATING—Medium size, early and excellent; very popular. July.

SPITZENBERG ESOPUS—Medium to large, deep red, flesh yellow, highly
flavored, sub-acid. November to March.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 109

STURMER’S FIPPIN—Medium size, firm, brisk, richly flavored; a valuable late
keeping apple; coming into use when other late varieties are over. February
to June.

THE HOUBLON—A grand desert apple, from a pip of the same fruit from which
the Charles Ross was raised; a deeper and longer keeping Cox’s Orange
Pippin; remarkably firm fleshed and attractive variety. October to March.

THE QUEEN (F C)—Handsome; a great bearer; flesh white tender and excellent;
enormously prolific. September.

WINTER BANANA (***)—This is a remarkably handsome apple; large, with
strong banana flavor. The highest priced apple on the market. October to July.

CULINARY.

ALFRISTON—A good bearer, and one of the largest apples in cultivation. No-

vember to April.

BEAUTY OF BATH (F C)—A beautiful striped early apple; good grower and
abundant bearer. August.

BISMARCK (F C)—One of the handsomest apples in cultivation and a profuse
bearer. November to February.

BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING (F C)—Skin striped with scarlet; very large, flesh
firm, acid and juicy; a valuable late apple. iecember to March.

CELENEE—A handsome large red apple; one of the most commendable of all
apples. October and November.

CANADA REINETTE—Large yellow, firm, well flavored; good for desert or
kitchen; an abundant bearer. November to January.

COL’S POMONA—Large, very handsome; one of the best and most prolific of
apples. September to October.

DUTCE MIGNONNE—Large, round, smooth and handsome; good for table or
kitchen. December to April.

DUMELOW’S SHEDLING (Wellington)—Large and excellent; always retains its
acid. November to March.

ECKLINVILIE SEEDLING—Large, roundish; a handsome and excellent apple
and great bearer. October to January. '

EMPEBOR ALEXANDER—Fruit very large, roundish ovate, flesh tender; one of
the most beautiful apples. September to November.

GASCOIGHNES SEEDLING (F C)—A distinct richly colored and exceedingly hand-
some apple; free bearer; its bright color makes it a favorite for the table
and kitchen. November to March.

GOLDEN NOBLE—Very large, roundish, skin smooth, clear bright yellow, flesh
yellowish, firm and juicy. October to March.

EHAWTEHORNDEN—Large, roundish yellow, flesh white, crisp, tender and very
highly flavored. October to January.

ZESWICK CODLIN—Medium, conical, angular, light yellow; a great bearer, sel-
dom misses a crop. August and September.

KING OF TOMPKINS COUNTY—Very large and handsome, flavor rich, tender
and gooa, equally adapted to table or kitchen. November to January.

LANE’S PRINCE AI:BERT—An extremely handsome and late variety; a good
bearer; very recommendable. October to January.

LORD SUFFIELD—Very large, nearly white; a most abundant bearer. August
and September.

NEWTON WONDER—Large, solid; keeps late; very prolific; one of the best of
recent introductions. November to May.

PEASGOCD’S NON-SUCH (F €)—One of the handsomest apples in cultivation;
flesh yellow, tender, juicy, with an agreeable acid flavor. October to January.

POTTS’ SEEDLING—A handsome and prolific yellow apple; a very desirable
variety. Sentember and October.

STERLING CASTLE—An excellent apple and great bearer; skin green, turning
to pale yellow; flesh white, tender and juicy. October and November.

110 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

WEALTHY—Very hardy, prolific, medium to large size; red streaked; good packer
on account of uniform shape; good for table or kitchen. September to
December.

WARNER’S KING—Very large, deep yellow strewed with russet; flesh white,
tender, crisp and juicy, with fine brisk sub-acid flavor; first-rate culinary
apple; prolific. October to January.

WORCESTER PEARMAIN (F C)—Medium size; skin completely covered with red;
flesh tender, juicy and well flavored; early and of good quality. August and
September.

While the above is a good list of choice variety of apples that
will dwarf well, and eive satisfaction, yet there are lots more that
might be added. In one of the nurserymen’s catalogues now before
me 172 varieties of apples are listed, and others give still longer lists.
{t may be that many of my readers are unfamiliar with the names of
some of the varieties, they being of European origin. This arises
from the fact that more attention has been paid to dwarfing there,
and I avail myself of the European’s well practiced experience. At
the same time I include a number of choice American varieties.

PEARS.

To France and the Island of Jersey we owe some of our best
pears, and it will be noticed that in the following list I have drawn
largely on both these countries, as the dwarfing system has been
highly developed there. (*) means extra, (**) means a super-excel-
lent, (C) for ewlinary, (D) for dessert, (DC) good for both purposes,
(DG) double grafted.

BARTLETT (Bon Cretien)——-A well known pear of the highest excellence. August
and September.

BELLE DE JERSEY (BELLE ANGEVENE)) (C)—This is the largest of all
pears, sometimes weighing up to three pounds; is very ornamental and is
used in France more to ornament the dinner table than for eating. It fre-
quently sells in the Palais Royal, Paris, for 30 francs each. November to May.

BERG-AMOTTE ESPEREN (D)—A delicious late pear, medium size; flesh yel-
lowish, melting and juicy. February to April.

BEURRE D’ ANJOU (D)—Large; an excellent melting pear; one of the best early
winter pears. December.

BEURRE D’ AMANLIS (* N)—This is one of our best September pears; very
large, tender, juicy, melting, with richly perfumed flavor; an excellent wall
pear. September.

BEURRE PD’ AREMBERG (D)—Very juicy, sweet and delicious with pleasant
aroma. September. (Known as GLOU MORCEAU in England.)

BURRE BEUBRE DIEL (D)—Very large, aften weighing 16 to 20 ounces; melt-
ing and excellent; a well known pear. November and December.

BEUBRE GIFFORD (D)—Medium size, melting, very juicy; one of the best
early pears; a good pear. July.

BEURRE HARDY (D)—Large; an excellent melting pear; remarkable for its
beauty and vigor of growth on the quince; is very good on a wall. October.

BEURRE BRANCE (D G)—Often very large; a most excellent late melting pear;
requires double grafting; forms a better bush than pyramid. March and April.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. ale lal

BEURRE SUPERFINE (* D)—A most delicious desert pear; well known as one
of our best dessert pears. September and October.

BEURRE CAPLAUMONT (D C)—Medium size, juicy and agreeable; a most
abundant_bearer. October.

BEURRE LUCRATIVE (D)—A fine medium, melting pear, yellow, delicious,
good grower and productive. September.

CATALETAC (* C)—An immense bearer; best for stewing, owing to large size; is
better as bush or espalier. December to March.

CLAIRGEAU (D G)—lLarge and very handsome; double grafted;
handsome pyramid. December.

CLAPS FAVORITE (* D)—An American pear of high excellence; large, hand-
some and exceedingly good, and is valuable for either wall or orchard. August.

CONFERENCE (* D FC)—Fruit large; flesh salmon colored, melting, juicy and
rich; tree robust and hardy. Early November.

CITRON DE CARMES (D DG)—Below medium size; when double grafted it bears
very fine fruit; is very popular in France, where few fruit gardens are with-
Ot) 1. July.

DURONDEAU (DE TONGEBS)—Very large and handsome, melting, rich and
delicious: a good wall or espalier pear. October and November.

DUCHESSE D’ ANGOULEME (PD C)—A very large and noble looking fruit; best
suited for exhibition, though when grafted on quince the fruit becomes melt-
ing and rich. October and November.

DR. JUIES GUYOT (*** D)—A great improvement on the Bartlett, being earlier;
is often of the highest quality. August and September.

DOYENNE BOUSSOCH—A very large and handsome pear, which succeeds and
bears profusely on the quince; good on wall or trellis. October and November.

DOYENE PE COMICE (** DC)—A most delicious pear, of largest size, very
handsome: melting and juicy. The fruit on a wall or espalier is superb in
quality and appearance. In the orchard house, in a pot, the fruit will ripen
on the tree into November and may then be gathered and eaten. November.

FORELLE (TROUT PEAR) (D G)—Medium; a very handsome speckled pear,
succeeds well double grafted; the color of skin is very attractive. November.

GENERAL TODLEBEN—Very large, melting and juicy; good as a wall or espa-
lier pear; great bearer. November.

JERSEY GRATIOLIW—A delicious pear and great bearer. September and October.

JERSEY CHAUMONTEL (** D)—The best and finest of all our pears, bearing a
crop when all other fail; the flavor of this remarkable pear is unequalled;
often weighs one and one-half pounds.

JARGONELLE (DG)—A large, well known early variety, particularly adapted
for an early wall. July.

JOSEPHINE DE MAGINES (*)—Medium size; a delicious hardy, melting pear,
with rich aromatic flavor; succeeds well on quince; bears well as bush or
espalier; is very prolific. January, February, March.

GANSELS BERGAMOT (D G)—Large and very handsome; perfumed, melting and
excellent; slow in coming into bearing, unless double grafted. October and
November.

LOUISE BON DE JERSEY (D)—A general favorite; beautiful and good. October.

LAWRENCE D *)—A very late, long keeping, medium size pear of high quality.
December to March.

LE LECTIER (* D)—A large French staple pear of high quality; tree vigorous
and constant bearer. January to March.

MARGARET MARILLAT (D)—Large, handsome, with distinct flavor. September.

MARECHAL DE LA COUR (** D)—tLarge, hardy, melting; very fine on wall or
trellis. October and November.

MARIE LOUISE (* D)—Large, well known pear of highest excellence; double
grafted on wall or espalier it attains large size, and is invariably of good
flavor. October and November.

MADAME TREYVE (* D)—Large, early, melting and very rich; hardy. September

it makes a

112 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

PITMASTCN DUCHESSE (* DC)—Very large, of good quality; good at all
points—in orchard house, on a wall, as an espalier, or as an orchard standard.
October and November.

PASSE CRASANNE (B)—An excellent late pear; one of the finest; requires a
good soil and high culture, and warm situation to develop its best qualities.
January to March.

PRINCE NAPOLEON (D)—Large; a seedling from Passe Crasanne; melting, with
fine aroma. January to March.

SECKELE ¢** DGjy—Small; an American pear; allowed to be ‘the standard of ex-
cellence in pears.” October and November.

SOUVENIR DU CONGRESS (** DG DC)—Very large, weighing one to two
pounds; on quince requires double grafting; excellent on a wall. September.

SHELDON (* D)—Large, globular, russet; flavor resembling the Seckle. October
to December.

SWAN'S ORANGE (ONODAGA) (DG)—Large yellow pears of good quality.
November to December.

WINTER CRANGE (C FC)—Medium to large, rich russet brown. January.

WINTER NELLIS (* D)—Below medium, melting, juicy, delicious flavor; pro-
ductive. December to January.

PEACHES.
(Best Twelve.)

ALEXANDER (** Semi-Cling)—A handsome, richly colored peach; very popular
among fruit growers; hardy, ripening out of doors about the middle of June
(PCV). July.

CRAWFORD EARLY (Free)—A magnificent, large, yellow peach of a good
quality; its size, beauty and productiveness makes it one of the most popular
varieties; hardy. Midseason

CRAWFORD, LATE (*? FREE)—Fruit large, vellow, vigorous, productive, one
of the finest late sorts; hardy. Mnd of September.

CARMAN (*? FREE)—Large, resembling Elberta pale yellow; prolific; hardy.
Midseason.

CHAMPION (**? Pree)—Of recent introduction; large, of high quality; hardy.
Ripens after Early Crawford.

ELBERTA (**? FREE)—Very large; golden yellow; hardy; prolific. A general
favorite. Late September.

GROSSE MIGNONNE (* Free)—Very large and very good; midseason peach.
September.

HALE’S EARLY (*** Free)—A magnificent early peach, highly colored and
richly flavored; by far the most popular of the early peaches. Ripens in July.

NIAGARA (**? Free)—A large, beautiful and high quality peach; hardy. End
of August.

NOBLESSE (** Free)—One of the best peaches; very large; one of the best
either for forcing or open wall. September.

PRINCESS GF WALES (** Freey—Very largest and best of peaches known.
Middle to end of September.

ROYAL GEORGE (** Free)—A great favorite; large; a most reliable mid-season
peach. August and September.

NECTARINES.

ADVANCE (*)—One of the earliest, Nectarines. August.

EARLY RIVERS (* FC)—The earliest of the nectarines; a grand acquisition.
Beginning of August.

LORD NAPIER (* Free)—Fruit very large and handsome. August.

PITMASTON ORANGE (Free)—Large, rich and sweet. September.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 113

PINEAPPLE (Free)—DLarge and very rich; ripens a week after the Pitmaston.
September.

STANWICK ELRUGE (* Free)—Large and richly flavored; flesh white and
Sugary. September.

APRICOTS.
BLENHEIM (*)—Medium, juicy and good; tree hardy and not liable to gum.
September.
MOOR PARK (* Free)—Large, early, juicy, rich and excellent; tree hardy. End
August.

ROYAL (* Free)—A standard variety, of great hardiness and all around good
qualities. July and August.

EUROPEAN GRAPES.
(Hardy for Outdoors.)

BLACK HAMBURG—The most popular European grape in cultivation; very
large, juicy, vinous and rich; most popular variety.

GROS COLMAN—Best late grape, of noble appearance, easily cultivated; flavor
improves by late keeping.

LADY DOWNE’S SEEDLING—Valuable late keeping grapes of fine flavor.

SWEET WATER—The best of the hardy grapes; succeeds well in the open.

AMERICAN GRAPES.

NIAGARA—Hardy, white. BRIGHTON.

CONCORD—Hardy, black. DELAWARE.

MOORHE’S EARLY—Hardy, black. AGAWAM.
CHERRIES.

BLACK BIGARREAU—An excellent large black cherry; very recommendable.
July and early August.

BLACK TARTARIAN—Very large, sweet and good; a good bearer. Ripe July
and August.

BLACK REPUBLIC—Large, medium season; a good shipper. August.

BING—A strong grower; fruit very large; very hardy and productive; fine mar-
ket variety. End July.

DIKEMAN—A large dark cherry; hangs long on tree. August.

EARLY RICHMOND—Red, acid, juicy; good for cooking. June.

ELTON—Vervy large; light red, and excellent. July.

ENGLISH MORELLO—Productive, and late; a culinary cherry of good quality;
when grown on a north wall of building may be kept in good condition until
September and October.

GOVERNOR WOOD—Good, early, light cherry; tender, juicy, sweet and delicious.
End of June.

LAMBERT—Very large, flesh firm, flavor unsurpassed; excellent shipper; ripens
two weeks later than Royal Anne. End of August.

MAY DUKE—Best of the early cherries; well known old variety. June.

NOBLE (FC)—Large, very dark red; flesh firm and very late; a new sort.
September.

OLIVET—Large, globular; very shining; deep red; flesh tender, rich, vinous, with
sweet sub-acid flavor; one of the most profitable and latest cherries. Sept.

ROYAL ANNE (NAPOLEON BIGARREAU)—A very fine cherry of largest size:
very productive. August.

114 THE SUBURBANITE’S HANDBOOK

STRANG LOGIE—A magnificent early dark red cherry; rich flavor and an ex-
traordinary bearer. June and July.

WHITEEEART—A beautiful cherry; pale yellow, marbled with red; a great
bearer; certainly one of the very best cherries. Middle of July.

WINDSCR—A valuable late market cherry; fruit large, liver colored; flesh re-
markably firm and of fine quality; very prolific. End of August.

PLUMS.

REINE CLAUDE DE BAVAY—Round, greenish yellow, very large, rich and de-
licious. October.

BELGIAN RED—A delicious dessert plum. End of August.

COLUMBIA—Very large, round, purple, rich and sugary; parts freely from the
stone. August.

CZAR—The earliest of the fairly large blue plums; the best of its season. End
of July.

COEH’S GOLDEM PROP (SILVER PRUNE)—One of the richest yellow plums;
very large. End of September.

ITALIAN PRUNE (HELLEMBERG; Large German Prune)—Large, juicy and
delicious; freestone; excellent for drying. September.
JEFFERSCON—A fine, large, oval, yellow plum; very rich, juicy, freestone. August.
KIRKE’S—A delicious dessert plum fruit; large, purple, with blue bloom, that
does not easily rub off; firm, juicy and very richly flavored. September.
MONARCH (F C)—Fruit very large, dark purplish blue; freestone; of excellent
quality; skin does not crack with heavy rain; grown on a wall the frult
grows very large. Late September.

PEACH PLUM—Very large, brownish red, coarse grained but juicy and pleasant.
July.

POND’S SEEDLING (HUNGARIAN PRUNE)—An enormous bright red culinary

plum, decidedly one of the best for cooking purposes; very productive and a
good shipper. September.

SHROPSHIRE DAMSON—Small, oval, very prolific; culinary. September.

VICTORIA—The most prolific of all plums; fruit large, red, juicy, sweet and
pleasantly flavored, September.

WASMINGTON—Large, yellow, marked with crimson dots; rich and sugary.
September,

FIGS.

BROWN TUBKEY—The hardiest variety; brownish purple; large, rich and excel-
lent; bears most abundantly in pots and on walls and forces well.

WHITE MARSEILLES—Large, greenish white, of most luscious sweetness;
bears abundantly and forces well.

CURRANTS.
Black.

BLACK NAPIES—Very large and good.
LEE’S BLACK—Large, very productive, very sweet.
VWICTOBIA—Black, large and sweet, with long bunches.

Red.

PAY’S PROLIFIC—The largest red currant; bunches short, and very good.
LA VERSAILLAISE—Very large, and good; an abundant bearer.
RED DUTCH—Bunches short, a sweet, rich and good currant.

OF DWARF FRUIT TREE CULTURE. 115

White.

WHITE DUTCH—A well known good sort.

NOTE—To produce very large red and white currants the bush
should be cut in closely, i. e. the young shoots should annually be
shortened to two inches. Currants make very handsome pyramids
and bear profusely.

GOOSEBERRIES.

Rough Reds.
CHAMPAIGNE—Very rich flavor. LANCASHIRE LAD—Great bearer.
COUMPAWION—Extra fine. RIF LEMAW—Immense; late.
CROWN BOB—A sure cropper and WICfORIA—New; highly prized.

good quality. WABRINGZON—Good flavor; late.

TRONMONGER—Small, high flavor. WiNDHAWS INDUSTRY—Larze size.

Smooth Keds.

CONQUERING HERO—Heavy cropper. SLAUGHTERMAN—Extra fine.
MAJOR HIBBERKI—Large. MAYDUKE—Very early and desirable.

Smooth Yellows.

LEADER—Very fine. LEVELLER-—Extra large; good flavor.
White.

WHITE SMITH—Earliest white. ANTAGONIST—The largest white.
Green.

BERRY’S EARLY KENT—Harly, deli- LANGLY’S GAGE— Highly flavored;

cious. grand for dessert.
DRILLI—Extra fine. SHAKESPEARE—Very large.
HARRABY EARLY GREEN—The SIR GEORGE BROWN—Large and well
earliest. flavored.

KEEPSAKE—Large, early, delicious. STOCKWELL—Large and good.
LANCER (Howard’s)—Large and great TELEGRAPH—Hxtra fine; slow grower.
bearer.

Rough Yellows.

BROOM GIRL—Large and good flavor. GUNNES—Handsome, richly flavored.
CATHERINA—Long and fine. LANGLY BEAUTY—Large and good;
GOLDEN DROP—vVery early, fine highly flavored.

flavor.

DR. A. W. THORNTON’S

Suburbanite’s Dwarf Fruit Tree Nursery
FERNDALE
Whatcom County, Washington

This nursery is being established for the propagation of Dwarf
Fruit Trees and will be confined to that class of fruit and will be con-
dueted on the co-operative plan and strictly under the Golden Rule,
a large proportion of the profits being set aside and divided annually
among the employees.

The operations of the nursery will be confined to the production
of only the highest quality of fruits and such as have been found to
respond best to the dwarfing process. No inferior stock will be
allowed to grow in the nursery or sold therefrom.

The classes of fruit grown will consist of
POME FRUITS—(Apples, Pears and Quinces.)
STONE FRUITS—(Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries and
Plums. )
SMALL FRUITS—Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, Blackberries,
ete.)

TRAINED TREES—Special attention will be given to this line.
This nursery will be kept up to date in every department and
the interests of suburbanites will be a fundamental rule.
For further particulars and price lists, apply to as above.

Suburbanite’s Special Collection of
Dwarf Fruit Trees

I will furnish these special collections at the prices named. De.
livered free by mail for cash with order. The trees will be of the

best varieties, assorted of the class known as ‘‘Maidens,’’ or one
year from the bud, and pruned back ready for planting.

If desired, trees of a bearing age (2 years) and furnished with
fruit buds that will bloom and bear fruit the first season after plant-
ing will be furnished F. O. B. at Ferndale, Whateom County, Wash-
ington (as the roots would be too well developed to send safely by
mail), at 50 per cent above the price of ‘‘Maidens.’’

Collection A—Apples.

Five assorted apples (early and late, culinary and dessert) ; my own
selection of varieties; all maidens; free by mail.......... $4.50

Collection B—Apples.

Five similar varieties, 2 years old (bearing age), F. O. B. at Fern-
gale. Whatcom County, Washington... 5. .<.00teo«0e6 nde. $6.75

Collection C—Pears.

Five pears, assorted varieties, Maidens; my selection; free by
mail

Collection D—Pears.

Five pears, similar varieties, 2 years old (bearing age), with fruit
buds? iO). By at Werndale. cic. yes oss dwreusescceas cee ete $6.75

Collection E—Stone Fruit.

Five assorted stone fruit (peaches, nectarines, apricots or cherries) ;
my selection; ‘‘Maidens;’’ free by mail for............... $9.00

Collection F—Stone Fruit.

Five assorted stone fruit, as above, 2 years old (bearing age) ; F. O.
B. at Ferndale, Whatcom County, Washington, for....... $12.50

SMALL FRUIT.
Collection G—Gooseberries.

One dozen assorted Maidens, gooseberries, red, white, yellow, green;
prize varieties; my selection; free by mail (these will be adapt-
ed to training as upright cordons or U form cordons)..... $3.00

Collection H—Gooseberries.

One dozen assorted gooseberries, 2. years old, bearing age; F. O. B.
BT RIVILD -su'ny cies oni 6 Xeld a0 GU s-s See eee $4.50

Collection I—Currants.

One dozen assorted currants (white, red or black) ; Maidens; free
STAGE Ss bak kX kW hive ka wh Oe RG eee sha he kn $2.50

Collection J—Currants.
Six fancy trained assorted currants (bushes—standards), cordons;
TIT 0s dane; a eh ee errr Terry $3.00

DR. A. W. THORNTON
Suburbanite’s Dwarf Fruit Tree Nursery
Ferndale, Whatcom County

Washington

MAY 29 1909