To help you who live in the West to enjoy more fully the glorious products of these Western states; to introduce you, perhaps, to some of the less well- known foods of particular localities; in short, to help you to live more abundantly here in the West that is the purpose of this Sunset All -Western Cook Book. SUNSET ALL-WESTERN COOK BOOK How to select, prepare, cook, and serve all typically Western food products. Recipes included for favorite regional and foreign dishes peculiar to the West By GENEVIEVE A. CALLAHAN Home Economics Editor SUNSET MAGAZINE 1 933 STANFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS STANFORD UNIVERSITY, CALIFORNIA COPYRIGHT 1933 BY THE BOARD OF TRUSTEES OF THE LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA BY STANFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS ABOUT THIS BOOK COOK BOOKS and cook books there are in great abundance collections of old Southern recipes, New England recipes, Chi- nese recipes, recipes for entrees, for meat dishes and meatless dishes, and so on in uncounted number. Strange to say, in all this profusion of excellent cook books, general or specific in purpose, the West and its products have been largely ignored. This is strange when one remembers that Western hospi- tality and Western cookery have been noted throughout the land since the early days of gold. It is particularly strange when one considers that our Western states produce such a profusion of unusual, and unusually good, fruits and nuts and vegetables and fish. Many of these are, of course, shipped to other sections of the country. A good many others, however, cannot well be shipped, and so are enjoyed in all their delicious- ness right here at the source of supply. Of those products that are shipped East, we of the West have greater abundance at lower prices, and we have them at their best, fresh from ranch garden or orchard or from the Pacific itself. This Sunset All-Western Cook Book makes no pretense of being a complete cook book that will answer all your questions about ordinary cooking and baking. There are too many good general cook books on sale now for us to attempt to gather into one volume all the wisdom of that sort. Instead, we have, so far as possible, omitted the ordinary recipes and information that are found in every other cook book, and have endeavored to make this an extremely useful handbook on the preparation and serving of typically Western food products. And in spite of the fact that it does not lay claim to being a general cook book, we suspect that it will be used more frequently in every Western home kitchen into which it finds its way than the regu- lation cook book ordinarily is used. This Sunset All-Western Cook Book has grown out of five years' direct contact with homemakers of the Pacific Coast states. You who have contributed to the Kitchen Cabinet recipe vi Sunset All -Western Cook Book exchange of Sunset Magazine, you who have asked questions, or offered advice and friendly comment, have furnished the inspiration for this book, and much of the information con- tained in it. If you discover that some excellent recipe or bit of in- formation about some Western product is lacking from this "anthology" of Western recipes, will you please sit right down and write it to us, so that we may possibly incorporate it in the next edition of Sunset All-Western Cook Book? And if you should find any errors or misinformation (which heaven for- bid!) will you please call our attention to that, also? This book is the first step toward a thoroughly complete reference book on the source, description, preparation, cooking, and serving of every Western food product, and we ask your kindly help in achieving it. We are grateful for the aid of a number of Western home economists, homemakers, and market men in the preparation of this material. Special thanks are extended to Bertha E. Shapleigh, Marjorie Black, Jeannette Cramer, Helen Wells, Mrs. A. S. Baldwin, Gladys Mason, Charlotte Sloan, and Ruth B. Lane. For reference, the following books have been found especially useful : Food and How to Cook it, by Helen M. Wells and Belle De Graf; Recipes You'll Enjoy, by Julia Lee Wright; Food Purchasing for the Home, by Ruetta Day Blinks and Willetta Moore; Roeding's Fruit Growers' Guide; Five Hundred Ways to Prepare California Fish; Vegetables in the California Garden, by Ross H. Cast, published by Stanford University Press; California Fruits, by Edward J. Wickson; and The Normal Diet, by Dr. W. D. Sansum, published by the C. V. Mosby Company, St. Louis. GENEVIEVE A. CALLAHAN Home Economics Editor Sunset Magazine TABLE OF CONTENTS Page I. Western Vegetables 1 Artichokes, 2; Asparagus, 6; Bamboo Shoots, 8; Beans, 9; Beets, Bracken, Broccoli, Cardoon, 12; Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, 13; Carrots, Cauli- flower, 15; Celery, 16; Celery Root, 17; Chard, Chayote, Cress, Dash- een, Eggplant, Endive, 18; Garbanzo, Finnochio, Herbs and Flavorings, 19; Kohlrabi, 20; Mushrooms, Onions, 21; Peas, Peppers, 22; Pimien- tos, 23; Rice, 24; Salsify, 26; Spinach, Squash, 27; Sweet Potatoes, Tomatoes, 32; Vegetables General, 33; Sauces for Vegetables, 35 II. Western Fruits and Nuts . 39 Apples, 40; Apricots, 43; Avocados, 45; Berries, 51-59; Cherries, 59; Citrus Fruits, 61 ; Grapefruit, 62; Lemons, 64; Limes, Oranges, 68; Tan- gerine, 74; Dates, Figs, 76; Grapes, 78; Melons, 80; Nectarines, Olives, 82; Peaches, 85; Pears, 88; Persimmons, 89; Pineapples, Plums and Prunes, 91; Pomegranates, Quinces, 93; Fruit Combinations, 94; Salad Dressings, 96; Sub-tropical Fruits, 98; Wild Fruits of the West, 102; Dried Fruits, 104; Raisins, 112; Western Nuts, 114; Almonds, 114; Chestnuts, 115; Filberts, Lychee Nuts, Pecans, Pinons, 116; Pistachio, Walnuts, 1 1 7 III. Western Fish and Came 121 Abalone, 129; Alaska Black Cod, 130; Albacore, Anchovies, Barracuda, Bass, 131; Blue Fish, Catfish, Chilipepper, Clams, 132; Codfish, Crabs, 137; Ecrevisses, Flying Fish, Frogs, Geoducks, 140; Game Fish, 141; Crayfish, Halibut, 143; Herring, Kingfish, Lobster, 144; Mackerel, Mus- sels, 146; Oysters, 147; Pike, Pompano, Rock Cod, 149; Salmon, Sand Dabs, 150; Sardines, Scallops, 151; Sea Bass, Shark, Sheepshead, Shrimps, 152; Skate, Smelt, Sole, Squid, 154; Steelhead, Swordfish, Tuna, Trout, 155; Turbot, Whitefish, Yellowtail, Kippered and Pickled Fish, 156; Western Game, 159; Wild Ducks, 160; Coot, Wild Goose, Prairie Chicken, Sage Hens, 162; Roast Grouse, Partridge, Quail, Pigeons, 163; Wild Turkey, Venison, 164; Bear, Moose, Mountain Sheep, Rabbit, 167; Squirrels, Reindeer, Sauces for Fish and Game, 168 IV. Favorite Foreign Dishes 173 Albondigos, Chiles Rellenos, Bitki, 174; Chili con Carne, Chop Suey, Chow Mein, 175; Curried Lobster, Shrimps, Oysters, Eggs Foo Yung, 176; Enchiladas, Frijoles, 177; Italian Macaroni, Italian Sauce, Mine- strone, Polenta, 178; Ravioli, 179; Risotto, Sukiyaki, Tagliarini, 180; Tamales, 181 ; Hominy Tamale Pie, 182 V. Western Canning, Preserving, Pickling 183 Jellies and Preserves, 184; Pickles, 195; Canning Information, 199 Index 203 vii Marketing? Nothing short of a trip through an art gallery is this daily duty, presenting as it does such a feast to the eyes. Fat artichokes, quite "art moderne" in their beautiful symmetry of leaf ar- rangement; blunt asparagus; purple varnished globes of egg plant; deep green zucchini and lettuce-green patty pans (squash is a too prosaic word entirely for their loveliness) ; where is the homemaker who does not revel in the daily display of beauty in every market from Seattle to San Diego, from the blue Pacific to the Rocky Mountains? Don't let yourself fall into a routine of cooking just a few old familiar vegetables. Explore! Experi- ment! Enjoy to the full the wealth of edible beauty that is your Western heritage. Western Vegetables ARTICHOKES Introducing the artichoke to visit- ing Easterners or Middle-Western- ers is one of the joys of living in the West! This remarkable vege- tablethe "Globe" or "Paris" arti- choke as distinguished from the so-called Jerusalem or American ar- tichoke which is in reality the flower bud of a giant thistle, is a typically Western product, being grown exclusively in California. In recent years the artichoke has become a snipping vegetable, and acreage and production have in- creased rapidly. Thousands of boxes are shipped East in iced cars each month during the season, which runs from October to May inclusive. With the exception of a compara- tively small number of persons in the larger centers such as New York and Chicago, however, few Eastern- ers know the artichoke and fewer still know how to eat it. About the Artichoke Artichoke production is confined to the central California coast, from San Francisco Bay south to Santa Barbara County. It seems to favor a narrow strip of land along the ocean; few plantings are over five miles from the shore. Fields of the gray-green, coarse, lacy foliage of the artichoke present a beautiful sight throughout the winter and spring months, as one drives along the Coast around Half Moon Bay, Carmel, and other fog-kissed points. It is startling to the newcomer to observe an artichoke patch running out to the very edge of a sheer cliff along the ocean. The plants are cut down to the ground in July, thus stimulating their growth, causing them to produce an abundance of flower buds later. Incidentally, arti- choke plants are becoming more and more popular as decorative garden plants; the flower buds should be cut off as soon as they are well formed and before the scales open, otherwise they are tough and taste- less. Never allow the flowers to mature, or the plants will dwindle and die. How to Select The uninitiated cook will inva- riably search the market for the largest artichokes. Her wiser sis- ter will look for small to medium sizes, for several reasons: they are usually more tender than the coarser, more mature buds ; and they are less expensive because they look less im- posing. Whatever size you choose, look (and feel, for the fingers help always in buying vegetables) for tightly formed heads with scales clinging close, not opened back, and for a crisp, fresh appearance. Avoid brownish-spotted, unattractive little nubbins of artichokes, unless you wish to use only the hearts, or bot- toms. Even so, avoid dry buds, no matter how cheap they may be. How to Prepare Allow one small or one-half a large artichoke for each person. Ex- amine each bud carefully for signs of worms (not often found, but should be looked for nevertheless). Wash thoroughly under running cold water. Cut off the stem about an inch from the base (this is to keep the flavor sealed in), and if de- sired, cut off about an inch of the top, straight across, using a sharp knife on a cutting board. Some cooks prefer to trim off all the sharp thorny ends of the leaves. This may be done with scissors. If preparing artichokes ahead of time for cook- ing, rub lemon juice over the cut surfaces to prevent blackening, and Artichokes let stand in cold water until needed. (Do not, however, soak the vege- table for hours before cooking.) How to Cook To boil artichokes, put into a large kettle of boiling salted water, cover, and boil from 30 minutes to an hour, depending upon size and tenderness. When the bottom may be pierced easily with a fork, or when a leaf can be pulled out easily, the vege- table is done. Pour off water, and turn each artichoke upside down to drain briefly. Cut off stem close to base, and place upright on plate, if whole artichoke is being served, or cut in half lengthwise. Many Westerners prefer to add a slice or two of onion or a small clove of garlic, and a few slices of lemon or a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, to the water in which the buds are boiled. Some persons add two or three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, which gives the vegetable added flavor and an appetizing glossiness. If the artichoke is to be stuffed, either hot or cold, the fuzzy choke may be removed with a teaspoon, measuring spoon, or French ball vegetable cutter. It is not necessary to do so. How to Serve Plain boiled artichokes are deli- cious, served either with melted butter, mayonnaise, mustard -may- onnaise, French dressing, or Hol- landaise sauce. (See Index for Sauces.) The sauce, if stiff enough, may be placed in a crisp lettuce-leaf cup, or in a tiny cup made by placing two or three of the large artichoke leaves together on the plate. Small paper crinkle-cups are satisfactory to hold "runny" sauces at informal meals ; or tiny Chinese bowls or nut cups may be pressed into service. It is always advisable to serve a large artichoke on a separate plate, for the waste leaves do clutter up a dinner plate badly. Halves of artichokes may, however, be served on the din- ner plate, with a dot of butter dropped into the hollow of each. How to Eat To eat this vegetable gracefully, pluck off a leaf (or petal, to be truthful) in the fingers, dip the base of it into the sauce provided, then bite off the tender portion and dis- card the tough end. Eventually you will come to a small, compact cone of light-colored leaves. Lift this cone out with the fingers and dis- card. When the bottom, or button, or heart, is reached, use the fork (sometimes the knife is needed, too) to remove the fuzzy "choke," which is discarded. Cut the remaining heart into bits with the fork, dip into the sauce, and eat. After the first one, you won't consider the arti- choke "a total waste of time," as one hungry Middle Westerner dubbed the proceedings ! Artichokes are obtainable canned plain, and also in the form of spiced hearts, as well as in the fresh green state. The spiced artichokes, put up in oil, make a charmingly decora- tive garnish for vegetable, fish, or chicken salads. FRIED ARTICHOKES Select a few tender artichokes, wash, and remove the tough outer leaves until the white, tender heart appears. Trim tips a little and cut into quarters lengthwise. Dip into beaten egg, then roll in flour which has been seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Fry in a pan with salad oil or butter, cooking very slowly for about 20 minutes. Western Vegetables ARTICHOKES DRY SAUTE Cut off points of artichokes, re- move all hard outer leaves, and cut each bud into four or six pieces lengthwise. Fry in olive oil or but- ter, with garlic and little shallots or onions, pepper and salt. Serve hot. STEWED ARTICHOKES Remove all hard outer leaves and points, and cut lengthwise into four or six pieces. Put into a casserole with pepper, salt, salad oil or butter, and a few leaves of mint. Cook slowly by steam, which is held in the casserole by putting a sheet of heavy paper under the cover. No water is needed ; however, a very little quan- tity (2 or 3 tablespoonfuls) can be put in for precaution. A half -hour's baking in a moderate oven (375) is sufficient for cooking them. QUARTERED ARTICHOKES Cut four large artichokes in quar- ters, remove the fuzzy parts on the inside, and immediately rub the quarters with lemon so they will not become black. Boil in salt water un- til soft. STUFFED ARTICHOKES (ITALIAN) 4 medium-sized artichokes Stuffing 2 cupf uls of dry bread crumbs 1 small package of Italian or Parmesan cheese 1 clove of garlic (minced) 1 sprig of parsley (minced) YZ cube (4 tablespoonfuls) of butter Parboil artichokes 15 minutes, spread leaves, and tuck bits of the mixture in between all of the leaves. Set them in a pan of salted water, having water come up around the artichokes to the depth of about 1 inch. Bake uncovered half an hour, having oven quite hot (425). Serve on lettuce leaves as salad, with plain or mustard-mayonnaise. They should be served hot and are a prime fa- vorite with everyone. STUFFED ARTICHOKES 4 artichokes, cooked tender Y-2. cupful of cracker crumbs 1 onion, chopped 4 tablespoonfuls of butter y-z teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of American cheese, grated Cut the cooked artichokes in half lengthwise and remove the chokes. Mix the other ingredients together, adding a tiny amount of water if needed to bind the mixture. Fill the cavities of the artichokes with the dressing, put into a baking dish, and bake in a hot oven (400) until the tops are nicely browned. STUFFED BAKED ARTICHOKES (Serves 6) 6 large, firm artichokes ^2 pound of fresh mushrooms or 1 No. 1 can 4 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 clove of garlic, minced fine Few sprigs of rosemary, thyme, and sweet marjoram 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful of minced chicken or turkey 1 cupful of chicken or turkey stock y cupful of buttered crumbs The artichokes may be parboiled the day before or early in the morn- ing. Cut off about one inch of the tops before boiling in salted water with one clove of garlic and 2 table- spoonfuls of salad oil. When nearly tender turn upside down to drain, and when cold, carefully separate the leaves so as to remove the choke with a teaspoon. This leaves a nice Artichokes cavity for stuffing. Saute the mush- rooms in the butter with the garlic and herbs. When done add flour and blend well. Then add the chicken stock and chicken. Cook un- til thick, season to taste with salt and fill artichokes. Cover with but- tered crumbs. Bake for half an hour in a covered baking dish in a 375- degree oven with 1 cupful of water and %. cupful of salad oil in bottom of dish. ARTICHOKE CASES FOR CREAMED FOODS Wash and trim good-sized arti- chokes, and cut off the tops about 2 inches deep, so that all that re- mains may be eaten with a fork. Cook as directed previously. When tender, remove and drain upside down until cool enough to handle. Separate the petals to form a cup, and with a spoon remove the fuzzy choke. Place artichoke cups in a pan with a little salad oil in the bottom, and fill each case with well-seasoned creamed mushrooms, shrimp, oys- ters, chicken, or the like. Sprinkle the top with buttered crumbs, or crumbs and grated cheese, and bake in a moderately hot oven (400) 15 to 25 minutes. These make a festive dish for a party luncheon. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS The button or bottom part of the artichoke (when the thistle-like por- tion is removed) combines well with other vegetables for salads. Celery root, artichoke buttons, tomatoes, and mayonnaise make an excellent combination. Artichoke buttons in themselves are considered a delicacy and are often eaten with mayonnaise or Hollandaise sauce; or sauted (fried) delicately brown on both sides, and seasoned with salt and pepper and lemon juice. FRIED ARTICHOKE HEARTS Drain the desired quantity of cooked or canned artichoke hearts. Make a batter as follows : 1 cupful of flour l /4 teaspoonful of salt 2 A> cupful of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter 1 egg white, stiffly beaten Sift flour and salt, add milk and butter and beat smooth. Fold in beaten egg white just before using. Dip artichoke hearts in the batter and fry in deep fat (390). ARTICHOKE OMELET Trim and clean that is, remove hard leaves and points and wash. Cut in small pieces lengthwise, then crosswise. Fry in oil in a pan until well done, adding salt and pepper to taste. Then beat up some eggs and put in with artichokes, mixing all together. (Use your own discretion as to quantities.) Fry until brown on both sides. MARIE'S ARTICHOKE OMELET In the kitchen of a French board- ing-house this recipe was extricated with difficulty from the practically non-English-speaking cook. But is it good ! First (to serve two) you have perhaps two artichoke hearts ready, cooked and chopped. Into a skillet put a little oil and butter, and in this fry one clove of garlic, one small onion, and a little parsley, all chopped fine. When these are limp but not brown, add the chopped arti- choke hearts, and stir until well heated. Then add two or three slightly beaten eggs, with salt and pepper, and scramble or cook as a French omelet, as you wish. Serve immediately, with hot French bread and a green salad. 6 Western Vegetables ARTICHOKE SOUFFLE 1 tablespoon ful of butter 1 tablespoon ful of flour 1 cupful of milk Salt and pepper 3 eggs, yolks and whites separated 8 to 12 cooked artichoke hearts, chopped fine Make a cream sauce of the butter, flour, and milk, and season well. Beat the egg yolks light, and stir into the cream sauce, then add the chopped artichokes. Lastly, fold in the egg whites, beaten stiff, pour into a buttered baking dish, set this in a shallow pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven (350) 30 to 35 minutes. Serve without delay. ARTICHOKE CRAB COCKTAIL SUPREME Y* cupful of tomato catsup Yz cupful of well-seasoned mayon- naise Y* cupful of whipped cream YZ cupful of shredded crabmeat Y* cupful of hearts of artichokes, diced Mix lightly, put into cocktail glasses and top with half a sweet pickle or a stuffed olive. Makes four servings. COMBINATION ARTICHOKE SALAD 6 artichoke hearts boiled and cooled 1 tomato peeled and sliced 1 cupful of string beans cooked and cooled 2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced Y* cupful of celery, cut fine 1 can of asparagus tips Arrange on lettuce leaves, top with a spoonful of mayonnaise, and decorate with strips of pimiento. STUFFED ARTICHOKE SALAD Cooked artichokes, chilled, and the petals opened out to form a cup, make beautiful salads. One of the most interesting fillings is a combi- nation of diced cooked celery root and diced avocado, both marinated in tart French dressing. Crab or other fish salad will be found excel- lent also. MOLDED ARTICHOKE SALAD 6 or 8 artichokes, cooked tender 2 tablespoon fuls of gelatine YI cupful of cold water YI cupful of boiling water Y* cupful of lemon juice Salt and paprika to taste 1 cupful of whipped cream 1 cupful of mayonnaise Remove the leaves from the cooked artichokes and scrape the tender part from each leaf with a spoon. Soften the gelatine in the cold water, then dissolve in the boil- ing water, and add seasonings. Cool, then combine with the whipped cream and mayonnaise which have been mixed, and add the artichoke scrapings. Place an artichoke heart in the bottom of each cup or mold, pour the gelatine mixture over, and chill in the refrigerator. Serve gar- nished with a little mayonnaise. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES The Jerusalem artichoke bears no resemblance at all to the Globe arti- choke. It is a knobby tuber, pro- duced underground like the potato, and used much the same way in cooking. The French people prize this vegetable highly ; they use it in stews, soups, and salads. No special recipes are needed. Simply cook un- til tender in boiling salted water to cover, drain, and prepare as desired. Asparagus ASPARAGUS While asparagus is grown all over the United States, it is a Western crop, for something like 90 per cent of that canned commercially is grown and put up in the state of California. The famous Delta coun- try of the Sacramento River is the chief asparagus-growing section. An interesting sight it is driving along the levee during the spring months to see swarms of men cutting the fat stalks with sharp, spade-like knives that sever the shoot with a diagonal cut several inches below the surface of the ground. This method of harvesting ac- counts for the white "asparagus tips" of commerce, for the tiny shoots are barely given time to puncture the top soil when they are cut off. The green asparagus is green because it is permitted to grow up into the sunlight. Until a few years ago the white bleached aspara- gus was more popular than the green, but the public taste is chang- ing fast. The white tips are better for canning, because they keep their shape better, but for eating fresh, the green asparagus is much to be preferred. A bed of asparagus, which re- quires almost no care, should be in- cluded in every home garden. The woman who can gather this vege- table from her own garden has a tremendous advantage over those who must buy at a market, for fresh asparagus has a delicacy and a sweetness that is lost when the vege- table is older. Since asparagus is a body-regulating food that supplies roughage, it well deserves a welcome on our tables. It may be used in soups, omelets, souffles, gelatine sal- ads, cocktails, hot vegetable dishes, on a crisp lettuce leaf with a favor- ite dressing, or it may be served on toast with melted butter, cream, or Hollandaise sauce. How to Prepare and Cook One pound of asparagus, cut into inch lengths for creaming, yields about two cupfuls when cooked, and will serve three or four persons. When boiled whole, to be served with butter or Hollandaise sauce, allow one pound for two or three persons, depending upon the rest of the menu. In preparing asparagus for cook- ing, first wash very thoroughly in cold water. A metal sponge or a brush will aid in removing the scales which harbor dirt. Break off the lower part of the stalks as far down as they will snap, then tie into bun- dles for individual serving, using white cord. Asparagus is usually cooked standing up, in boiling salted water over the thick part of the stalk only, so that the tender tips merely steam. Or it may be started standing up, then laid flat in the water to finish cooking the tops. Be sure the water is actively boiling when the vegetable is put in, and that it is salted ( 1 teaspoon ful to the quart of water). Cook the aspara- gus uncovered, to preserve its fresh green color. It may, however, be cut or broken into one-inch pieces, cook- ing the stalks first and adding the tender tips during the latter part of cooking. The time allowed depends upon the asparagus, but 20 to 25 minutes should be sufficient for the butts of young and tender asparagus, and 5 to 10 minutes for the tips. Liquid left in the pan should be saved for use in good and nutritious soups and sauces. Another most interesting way of cooking asparagus is to use only enough water to keep the asparagus from burning, and to add the butter 8 Western Vegetables when the vegetable is put on to cook. The water should be all absorbed when the asparagus is tender. It may be necessary to add a little water from time to time during the cooking. ASPARAGUS AND CHEESE DELIGHT 1 can of asparagus tips (or 1 bunch of fresh green aspara- gus, cooked) 1 cupful of blanched almonds 1 cupful of grated American cheese Cream sauce, made with 3 tablespoonfuls of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 cupful of milk Juice from the asparagus 6 patty cases or pieces of hot buttered toast Open the can of asparagus tips from the bottom, to avoid breaking the stalks ; or use the fresh-cooked stalks. Drain and cut the tips into short lengths. Blanch the almonds and cut them into lengthwise strips if desired. Grate the cheese. Make the cream sauce in the usual way, using the asparagus juice for part of the liquid. Cook, stirring, until thick ; season well, then add the as- paragus, almonds, and cheese, and let stand over hot water until heated thoroughly. Do not stir, as that would mash the asparagus tips. Serve in hot patty cases or on crisp buttered toast. ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE Cook the asparagus in salted water, until tender, or use canned asparagus; drain. Butter a shallow baking dish and lay the asparagus in it. Sprinkle thickly with grated cheese, dot with butter and add a little pepper. Brown slightly in a hot oven (425) and serve at once. Remember that canned asparagus is packed in the can with the tips at the top. When opening a can of as- paragus turn it upside down and re- move the bottom. This protects the tender tips from the can opener and permits the spears to slide out easily without breaking. Try creaming peas (canned or fresh) with asparagus tips. Serve on hot buttered toast, or for more elaborate occasions in patty shells, rosettes, or Dresden patties. These last are made by hollowing out 2- inch-thick triangles or squares of white bread, and browning them slowly in the oven, not under the broiler. Asparagus is excellent creamed with new potatoes, or combined with corn or peas or tomatoes to make a delicious casserole. No par- ticular recipes are needed. Use your imagination, taste the mixture fre- quently while combining, and the re- sults will be good. BAMBOO SHOOTS Young bamboo shoots constitute an important article of diet in Ori- ental countries, particularly China and Japan. Considerable quantities of the canned shoots are imported into this country, chiefly for use in Oriental recipes. It is only after a bamboo grove has become well established and is sending up culms 20 to 30 feet high that shoots suitable for food are available. These are allowed to reach a height of 6 to 10 inches, when they are cut off below the ground, like asparagus. The usual practice is to dig down and cut off the young shoots at the rhizome which bears them. To cook, remove sheaths and cut the shoots into pieces, crosswise, lengthwise, or diagonally, or into cubes or oblong pieces. Soak for 30 minutes in cold water, then boil in Beans a small quantity of salted water (adding more water as needed) 30 minutes or more, until fairly tender. Shoots of suitable age when prop- erly cooked are always firm and somewhat crisp rather than soft. Pieces from the base of a shoot may require more cooking than those from nearer the tip, but they gen- erally have a better flavor. Bamboo shoots may be served with plain butter, butter sauce, or cream sauce. The flavor somewhat resembles very young field corn, with a slight bitterness, which is made entirely unobjectionable by the addition of the butter or other dress- ing. Cut small, the cooked shoots make an acceptable addition to a salad. BAMBOO SHOOTS, JAPANESE STYLE Slice and cook the bamboo until tender, as directed above. Then put into a sauce made as follows: mix 1 cupful of soy sauce (this is the basis of Worcestershire sauce and is obtained only at Chinese or Japa- nese groceries or at some of the larg- est groceries in our large cities), % cupful of water, and 1 tablespoon- ful of sugar; let simmer for half an hour in this sauce, and serve. BEANS Bean Sprouts Bean sprouts are used chiefly in Chop Suey, Chow Mein, soups, stews, etc. They may be boiled in a small amount of water, well salted, and combined with white, Bechamel, tomato, or tart sauce. Lima Beans While lima beans of some sort are grown in many sections of the United States, principally as garden crops, their greatest and practically only commercial success is confined to a very small area in California's fertile valleys and coastal plains. These valley soils are both deep and strong primary requisites for limas of highest quality, for the lima plant is deep-rooted. Furthermore, limas require high humidity in dry seasons much moisture in the air. And, though wet and dry seasons are well marked in this coastal portion of California, the needed moisture for lima culti- vation is amply furnished by fre- quent heavy fogs which roll in over this area during the hot summer months. Perhaps it is a whim of Nature that such an ideal growing condition should be centered within such a limited area. However, California lima growers have not questioned Nature's mood instead, they have accepted the fact. And they have centered in this favored region all the skill at their command to pro- duce the highest quality limas. It is no wonder then that California limas (large or baby limas) are richer and more delicate in flavor than those grown elsewhere. The lima bean is the most alkaline food known. In recent years, to meet Dr. W. D. Sansum's demand for a highly alkaline bread for use in basic diets, the California Lima Bean Growers Association has de- veloped a lima-bean flour of a high degree of fineness. This flour, which can be obtained at numerous grocery stores throughout the West, is used in muffins, pancakes, or waffles, as well as in bread. A good muffin recipe is given on page 11. How to Cook Green Limas Shell the green lima beans shortly before cooking. (You sacrifice fla- vor when you buy those already 10 Western Vegetables shelled, besides paying for the la- bor.) Wash, but do not let stand in water. Drop into briskly boiling salted water to cover, and cook fast, without a lid, until the beans are just tender about 30 to 40 minutes usually. Remove from the fire, drain, add butter and a little cream if desired, let boil up, and serve at once. Or, better yet, add butter and just enough hot water so that it can be seen through the beans, and cook until water is all absorbed and beans tender. The cooked beans may, of course, be combined with other fresh vegetables, such as corn or tomatoes. How to Cook Dry Limas To revive the fresh, juicy tender- ness of dried California limas, pick over, wash, and soak them in cold water from 6 to 8 hours, or over night. Drain. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender (about 30 minutes). Add salt after 20 minutes' cooking. (This basic recipe applies to either large or baby limas.) LIMA BEAN SOUP 1 cupful of lima beans \y 2 quarts of cold water 4 slices of carrot 2 slices of onion 4 sprigs of parsley 1 teaspoonful of peppercorns 2 cupfuls of evaporated milk 1 tablespopnful of A-l or Worces- tershire Sauce Few drops of Tabasco Sauce (if desired) 2 teaspoonfuls of salt Wash beans, cover with water and soak several hours. Drain. Add the cold water and cook slowly until very tender, about one hour. After cooking one-half hour, add vege- tables and peppercorns. When beans are tender, rub through a sieve. There should be 3 cupfuls of pulp and liquid; if not, add water to make that quantity. In the meantime have evaporated milk heated to scalding point. Combine bean pulp and seasonings with milk just be- fore serving. Yield: 6 servings (5 cupfuls). LIMA BEANS AU CRATIN 1 cupful of milk 1 four-ounce package of pimiento cheese 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of celery salt l / 2 teaspoonful of onion salt 1 teaspoonful of paprika 1 teaspoonful of allspice 1 teaspoonful of A-l Sauce 3 cupfuls of cooked dried lima beans Cook milk and cheese in double boiler until cheese is melted. Add seasonings, and beans, put into oiled ramekins and bake in a quick oven until brown. LIMAS OXNARD 2 cupfuls of cooked dried lima beans y 2 pound of little pork sausages 2 tablespoon fuls of chopped onion 1 teaspoonful of sugar Y$ teaspoonful of mace 1 teaspoonful of salt Y$ teaspoonful of poultry seasoning 1 cupful of milk Bacon fryings Shredded green pepper Soak the beans in water over night, drain, cover with boiling water and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Add salt after 20 min- utes' cooking. Parboil the sausages 5 minutes ; drain. Combine the lima beans, onion, sugar, mace, salt, and poultry seasoning. Place in an oiled baking dish, arrange sausages over top, add the milk, then add the bacon fryings and shredded green pepper. Bake in a moderate oven (350) for 30 minutes. This is a one-dish meal. Beans 11 LI MAS IN CREAM 2 cupfuls of cooked dried Hmas 1 cupful of cream or rich milk 1 tablespoonful of butter Y* teaspoonful of salt l /% teaspoonful of pepper Mix all ingredients in a double boiler and cook over hot water until thoroughly heated. LIMA BEAN MUFFINS Sift together: YZ cupful of white flour YZ cupful of lima-bean flour 4 teaspoonfuls of sugar 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder Y* teaspoonful of salt Add: 2 /z cupful of milk \Yi tablespoonfuls of melted butter Beat together just enough to mix well, pour into muffin pans, and bake in a moderate oven (375) about 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 10 muffins. Nuts, raisins, or dates, chopped, may be added if desired. (Recipe taken from The Normal Diet, by Dr. W, D. Sansum, pub- lished by the C. V. Mosby Company, St. Louis.) BABY LI MAS, SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA STYLE Wash and soak one pound of baby Hmas (dried) over night in water to cover. Cook for one hour over low heat. Put into a baking dish or cas- serole half the beans, cover with brown sugar and dots of butter, and lay strips of bacon across the beans, completely covering them. Then put in the rest of the beans, and cover them in the same way with brown sugar, butter, and bacon. Bake in a moderate oven (350) for half an hour. This dish has a most unusual and enticing flavor. It is the kind men will smack their lips over, and the children will love it for lunch. SCALLOPED SUCCOTASH Combine canned or fresh-cooked green lima beans and canned corn, half and half. Cover with milk, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Cover with buttered cracker crumbs and bake about 20 minutes in a hot oven (400). STRING BEANS WITH TOMATOES 3 pounds of green string beans 6 medium-sized tomatoes 1 medium-sized onion Salt and pepper to taste Y$ cupful of butter Cut the beans into suitable-sized lengths. Wash and drain. Add the tomatoes which have been peeled and cut into pieces, and the onion, peeled and cut fine. Add salt and pepper to taste, and cook without the addition of water until the beans are very tender. Add the butter and let stand about 15 minutes over a very low blaze or on the back of the stove until time to serve. Serves 10 to 12. These are delicious. STRING BEANS, SPANISH STYLE 1 No. 2 can of string beans YZ a small onion, chopped 2 pimientos, chopped \]/2 cupfuls of cream sauce Salt and pepper Do not drain the liquor from the beans, but place on the fire in a saucepan, with the chopped onion added. Cook until nearly dry, and the onion is well done. Prepare a medium thick cream sauce, using 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 table- spoonfuls of flour, 1 cupful of evap- orated milk, and y 2 cupful of water. Add the pimientos, let cook 10 min- utes, then pour over the beans and serve. 12 Western Vegetables BEETS NEW BEETS, CALIFORNIENNE Put into a frying pan half a cube of butter, 3 cloves, 1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, ^2 teaspoonful of sugar, and some freshly cooked and peeled small beets. Simmer for a few minutes until thoroughly heated through, and serve at once. Quick Method of Cooking Beets Peel young beets as you would potatoes, then slice them with a fine vegetable slicer, or put through a food chopper. Add a very small amount of water (about l /4\.o l /2 cup- ful) and cook the beets 15 minutes. Add butter, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste, and serve at once. BRACKEN The fresh, green stalks of brakes or of ferns, picked before they straighten out, and cooked like as- paragus. The earliest "greens" in Oregon, and delicious creamed, but- tered, or otherwise. CARDOON A plant related to the Globe arti- choke. The leaves and roots are cooked and eaten with butter or other sauce. Hardy, easily grown all year in coast regions. BROCCOLI Broccoli and cauliflower, so far as growers and shippers are concerned, are one and the same thing. The only true differences are in details of plant growth and seasonal adap- tation, for there is the white broc- coli (which we call cauliflower), as well as the green plant with purple, bright green, or grayish green buds, which we know as Italian broccoli, or sprouting broccoli. This vegetable is not a newly dis- covered one, having long been fa- miliar to French and Italian house- holds in Europe, but it has only recently become popular in this country. It is now grown exten- sively in central and northern Cali- fornia, and southern Oregon. One advantage of broccoli is its appear- ance on the market when the cauli- flower season is over, and it has a long season. It is not ordinarily grown in the home garden. Analyses show that sprouting broccoli is a good source of calcium, phosphorus, and iron in the diet. It is an excellent vegetable for roughage, and probably, like other green vegetables, is a good source of one or more vitamins. How to Purchase and Prepare Broccoli is usually purchased by the head and paid for by weight. An average bunch, weighing from \ l / 2 to 2 l / 2 pounds, serves from 3 to 6 persons. The flower heads and the more tender parts of the long, branching stalk are eaten. This is a surprising fact to the uninformed Easterner; one woman cut off and discarded all the flower heads when she first attempted to cook this strange vegetable! The plant should be cut and eaten when the stem is covered with swol- len buds, just before they break into flower. The tough, stringy lower end of the stalk should by all means be trimmed off before cooking. The thick, tender stalks may be split part way so that they will cook quickly, without overcooking the tender top portions. Wash the broccoli well, and, if it is limp, let it stand for a short time in cold water to crisp it. It may be cooked whole, or cut into 2-inch lengths. Plunge into plenty of boil- ing salted water and cook rapidly, uncovered, for 10 to 20 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Drain Cabbage 13 and serve at once, with melted but- ter or Hollandaise sauce. If it is to be served cold in salad, plunge the hot drained broccoli immediately into ice water, to arrest further cooking instantly, and to preserve its bright fresh color and its flavor. When cool, drain and chill. BAKED BROCCOLI Broccoli for six servings (2 to 3 pounds) 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt Pepper 1 cupful of evaporated milk diluted with 1 cupful of water or meat broth y*, cupful of buttered crumbs % cupful of grated cheese Soak broccoli, heads down, in cold water. Cook, heads up, in boil- ing salted water in uncovered kettle until barely tender about 7 min- utes. Prepare white sauce of butter, flour, salt, pepper, and diluted evap- orated milk. Put broccoli in a but- tered baking dish, cover with white sauce and sprinkle with crumbs mixed with cheese. Bake in mod- erate oven (325) until crumbs are brown. Sprinkle top with chopped parsley and pimiento before serving. Yield : 6 servings. BRUSSELS SPROUTS Brussels sprouts look and taste like tiny cabbages. In fact, they are just that ! In buying choose green ones ; yellow sprouts are likely to be too mature or to have been kept too long, and therefore of too strong flavor. Look carefully for worm holes as you wash the sprouts, trim- ming and removing imperfections at the same time. Brussels sprouts are sold by the pound, one pound yield- ing about three cupfuls when cooked, and serving four to five persons. Cook in a large quantity of boil- ing salted water, uncovered, 10 to 15 minutes; drain and serve but- tered or creamed or with vinegar. BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CELERY Remove wilted leaves from one quart of Brussels sprouts and soak in cold water 15 minutes; drain. Cook in boiling, salted water 20 minutes, or until easily pierced with a fork. Again drain. Wash celery and cut into small pieces. There should be \y 2 cupfuls. Melt 3 table- spoonfuls of butter, add celery, arid simmer 5 minutes. Then add 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and pour on gradually \y 2 cupfuls of scalded milk. Bring to the boiling point. Add sprouts. Season with salt and pepper, and serve as soon as sprouts are reheated. CALIFORNIA CREEN SPROUTS A LA MILANAISE Cook the required quantity of Brussels sprouts in the usual way. Heat a spoonful of butter in a fry- ing pan and in it brown white bread crumbs. When fried to a high-brown color, drop the cooked sprouts into the brown butter and bread crumbs ; add 2 or 3 chopped hard-cooked eggs, grated Parmesan cheese, chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and serve piping hot. CABBAGE Ordinary white cabbage is, of course, known and grown the coun- try over, and so deserves and re- ceives scant attention here. Certain varieties of cabbage, however, are more generally popular on the Pa- cific Coast, among them red or pur- ple cabbage, Savoy or curly cab- bage, and Chinese cabbage. 14 Western Vegetables Directions for Preparing Chinese Cabbage. This vege- table, known also as Chinese lettuce, wong bok, or pet sei, comes in long, compact, pale green heads. It is very tender, and is excellent shred- ded fine, raw, and served with French or Cheese French Dressing. It is also good cooked briefly (in boiling salted water, uncovered) and served hot with seasoned butter. Al- low plenty for shrinkage. It is to be had in Western markets all winter long. Red Cabbage. Red cabbage cooked in ordinary hard (alkaline) water turns an ugly, unappetizing purple. The addition of a little vine- gar while cooking preserves or re- stores the bright red color. Red cab- bage needs longer cooking than white, usually 30 to 40 minutes. It is frequently prepared with spices, German style a favorite dish at the States Hof-Braii in San Francisco. Red cabbage is good also in the form of a raw salad, with a sharp French dressing. Savoy or Curly Cabbage. These heads, with their dark green, crinkly leaves, are usually found in Italian vegetable markets. They have a pungent flavor, and are used in Ital- ian vegetable soups. Cut up and cook as white cabbage, and serve buttered or creamed. White Cabbage. Shred and cook quickly, uncovered, in large quan- tity of boiling salted water. Allow 8 to 15 minutes, depending on ten- derness of cabbage. Drain. Season with butter or butter and cream, salt and pepper; or prepare in any other desired way, as escalloped or au gratin. One pound of un- cooked cabbage makes Z l / 2 cupfuls when shredded for slaw, or 2 l /2 cupfuls after cooking (3 serv- ings). RED CABBAGE SALAD Slice a head of red cabbage very thin, put in a salad bowl, season with salt, pepper, one spoonful of oil, and 3 spoonfuls of vinegar. This salad requires more vinegar than oil. SWEET-SOUR RED CABBAGE (Simplest way of preparing) 1 small head of red cabbage 1 cupful of water or stock 1 small onion, if desired 1 small tart apple 3 tablespoonfuls of savory fat or butter 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar 1 tablespoonful of brown sugar Y^ teaspoonful of allspice 2 whole cloves Brown the onion lightly in the fat, add the stock and the shredded cab- bage and diced apple. Cover and simmer until nearly done (about 30 minutes). Add the vinegar, sugar, and spices ; cook a few minutes more and serve. A little salt may be needed if the fat is not very salty. RED CABBAGE (More elaborate German style) 4 tablespoonfuls of bacon drippings 1 large onion, chopped fine 1 clove of garlic (may be omitted) 1 small head of red cabbage, chopped 1 apple, chopped but unpeeled A very little water, if needed 4 tablespoonfuls of white cooking wine (sweet or salt) may be omitted 4 tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar y* cupful of sugar Salt and pepper to taste Flour if needed In a saucepan melt the bacon drippings, and in it cook the onion and garlic until a golden brown. Add the chopped cabbage and apple. Cover tight, and let simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the wine, vinegar, sugar, salt, and Cauliflower 15 pepper, and again simmer, and if not thick enough you may sprinkle a little flour over the top. SWEET-SOUR CABBAGE SALAD No set rule has been figured out for the seasoning of this salad, for so much depends upon one's individ- ual taste. Anyone with a good sense of what a "sweet-sour" should be will make no mistake. Just remem- ber that the finished salad should taste just a little more sour than sweet. Here are the proportions to guide you : Chop one medium-sized head of white cabbage very fine, and sprin- kle with salt to taste. (It is insipid without salt.) Now sprinkle with enough sugar so that it will taste sweet, and then add vinegar, little by little, until sour enough to taste good even if nothing more were added. (Do not use pepper.) Arrange the cabbage flat in a wide, rather shal- low salad bowl a deep platter or shallow vegetable dish may be used. Now whip half a pint of whipping cream stiff, and add sugar to make it quite sweet. Then add vinegar, little by little, until it is sour enough to "match" the sourness of the cab- bage. Pour the sweet-sour cream over the cabbage, but do not stir them together. Serve in the salad bowl. This is delightful. SOUR-CREAM COLE SLAW (6 servings) YI cupful of mayonnaise Yi cupful of sour cream, whipped Y^ cupful of lemon juice Y^ cupful of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt Pinch of pepper 8 cupfuls of shredded cabbage Fold the whipped cream into the mayonnaise and beat until it be- comes very creamy. Add the lemon juice, sugar, salt, and pepper, and mix thoroughly. Then pour dress- ing over shredded white cabbage and work in well. Serve on crisp lettuce. CARROTS ( See Vegetables General, pages 33-35.) CAULIFLOWER Cauliflower (or white flowered broccoli) is one of the important truck crops of the West Coast, being marketed not only in Western cen- ters but shipped East by thousands of carloads every winter. One who has eaten cauliflower fresh-cut from the ranch, cooked quickly to just the right stage of tenderness, and served in simplest fashion, dressed with butter and top milk with plenty of salt and pepper, will never ask for a better vegetable dish. How to Select Choose a firm head of cauliflower, snowy white and free from discol- ored spots. The head should be tightly compact, as looseness indi- cates over-maturity and strong fla- vor. A yellow color also indicates strong flavor due to exposure to the sun. The leaves surrounding the head should be bright green and fresh. Cauliflower is usually sold at a flat rate per head. A two-pound head will yield about 3 cupfuls cooked, and will serve four or five persons. How to Prepare and Cook Trim off all green leaves, and wash thoroughly. It is better always to cut the head into portions for serving, in order to be certain that the stalk is perfect and that the cauliflower may be evenly cooked throughout. Have a good-sized ket- tle of salted water boiling rapidly. Drop in the cauliflower, bring 16 Western Vegetables quickly to boiling and cook rapidly, uncovered, until the stalk can be pierced easily with a fork. Drain carefully to avoid mashing, season, and serve ; or prepare with cheese sauce or otherwise, as desired. If one wishes to cook the cauli- flower in advance of using, plunge it into ice water immediately after draining, then remove from water and chill. It will not discolor when treated thus, and can be used for salads or other dishes hours later. CAULIFLOWER GOLDEN Easily made, attractive to serve, and good to eat is this simple vege- table dish. Cook separately a me- dium-sized cauliflower and one cup- ful of rice. Place the cauliflower, unbroken, in a buttered baking dish. Around it and over the top arrange alternate layers of the rice, and thin slices of American cheese (or a thick sprinkling of grated cheese), finishing with a layer of cheese. Season with salt and pepper, mois- ten slightly with milk or a bit of the cauliflower stock, and place in the oven just long enough to melt the cheese. Serve in the baking dish. CAULIFLOWER A LA CREOLE 3 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 small minced onion 2 tablespoonfuls of flour J^ teaspoon ful of salt 1 V-2. cupfuls of canned tomatoes 2 cupfuls of cooked cauliflower y 2 chopped green pepper (may be omitted) 1 teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley Buttered toast Melt the butter, add the onion, and cook on medium heat until the onion is a golden brown. Add the flour and stir until well blended. Add the salt and the tomatoes and bring to the boiling point, stirring constantly. Put in the cauliflower and the green pepper, and let cook gently for 5 minutes. Add the pars- ley and serve on buttered toast. CAULIFLOWER OYSTERS 1 head of cauliflower 2 eggs \ l / 2 cupfuls of broken crackers Wash cauliflower, break into flowrets, and cook in boiling salted water until almost tender. Drain and let cool. When cool, dip each small piece in beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat in a frying pan. Keep turning until all sides are a golden brown. Serve plain or with a hot cream sauce, with or without cheese added. CAULIFLOWER CUSTARD 1 medium-sized head of cauliflower 2 eggs, beaten Y$ teaspoonful of salt Pepper to suit taste 1 tablespoonful of butter, melted 1 cupful of evaporated milk or cream Boil the cauliflower 15 minutes in salted water, uncovered. Drain and chop fine, and add the other ingre- dients in order given. Stir well, pour into a buttered casserole, set the casserole into a pan of hot wa- ter, and bake in a slow oven (325) until brown and set like a custard. It will require from 45 minutes to an hour. This is delicate and deli- cious. Cabbage may be used instead of cauliflower if desired. CELERY CELERY VICTOR 4 bunches of celery hearts 2 quarts of soup stock (either chicken or brown stock) Sour French dressing (made with 1 part of tarragon vinegar to 3 parts of salad oil) Celery Root 17 Wash the heads of celery without separating, and cook in the strained soup stock until tender, and let cool in the stock. (Stock may be made with bouillon cubes or essence, and cooked with a few slices of onion and carrot, and a bay leaf and a few sprigs of parsley for added flavor.) Drain. Marinate for at least half an hour in sharp French dressing with ground black pepper added. Serve very cold. GLADYS MASON'S STUFFED CELERY Cut off the tops of a bunch of celery hearts evenly, separate the stalks, wash, and dry well. Season cream cheese or pimiento cream cheese to taste, and stuff one of the smallest stalks. Fill one of the next larger stalks and place it against this, forming a ring. Continue rill- ing and adding more celery stalks, "rebuilding" the head of celery as it was originally, but holding it to- gether, of course, with the cheese. Tie with string, and chill thor- oughly. Just before serving, cut in slices, using a sharp knife, and serve on a plate as an appetizer or relish or on lettuce as a salad if desired, passing French dressing with it. The slices of stuffed celery make a beautiful rosette pattern. CELERIAC OR CELERY ROOT Celery root, or celeriac, is rather a rough-looking customer, especially when brought to market untrimmed. One good big one will serve six. It is a member of the celery family, but the enlarged root is eaten rather than the leaves. The outer layer is tough and stringy, so a generous peeling must be taken off, either be- fore or after cooking. Celery root makes most delicious salads as well as being good as a vegetable. Simply wash well (do not peel) and cook in boiling salted water until tender about an hour. Cool and peel as used, otherwise it will turn dark. Cooked celery root diced with tomatoes and allowed to stand in French dressing, and served on lettuce, is delicious. Cooked cel- ery root may also be creamed, or creamed and placed in a casserole with grated cheese and bread crumbs and baked 45 minutes at moderate heat (350). CELERY ROOT COCKTAIL Boil celery root till tender; dice and chill. Serve in tomato cocktail sauce combined with mayonnaise and much lemon, and seasoned with green pepper or Worcestershire sauce as desired. DANISH CELERY ROOT BALLS 1 large celery root 1 pound of round steak, ground 1 small onion, chopped fine Salt, pepper, and sage legg 4 tablespoonf uls of flour 1 cupful of water For gravy : 2 tablespoonf uls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour Pare and cut the celery root into rather large pieces, and boil in enough salted water to cover until tender. Remove the celery root to a bowl and keep hot, saving the liquid in the saucepan. While the celery root is cooking, chop the onion, add the ground meat, seasonings, egg, and flour, mixing well, and adding the cupful of water gradually. Form the mix- ture into balls, using a tablespoon, and drop them into the boiling liquid in which the celery root was 18 Western Vegetables cooked. Cook slowly about 30 min- utes, until done. Arrange the cooked celery root in the center of a hot platter and the meat balls around the edge and keep hot while you make a gravy by rubbing together the 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, and gradually adding the hot liquid in which the vegetable and meat were cooked. Cook, stir- ring, until smooth and thickened to the right consistency. Pour this gravy over the meat and vegetable on the platter, and serve at once. Will serve four persons. CHARD A member of the beet family. Foliage used for greens. ( See Veg- etables General, pages 33-35.) Similar to cardoon and used for same purposes. CHAYOTE (See Squash, pages 27-31.) CHINESE RADISHES Chinese radishes, very long and white, are often sold by the piece; by the yard, one might almost say. We use them sliced or diced in sal- ads, and sometimes cook them in a very little water, to use as a hot vegetable with an exceptional, mildly pungent flavor. In cooking them it is well to remember that they shrink a great deal and to al- low extra bulk accordingly. Since these radishes are to be had from early fall all through the winter, they may be counted upon to give frequent interesting variety. CRESS Garden cress is a salad plant easily and quickly grown as a win- ter plant. Water cress, a wild plant found in streams, is used as a gar- nish and salad accompaniment. Do not use unless you know that it comes from an unpolluted stream. DASHEEN A bulb-like vegetable grown to some extent locally. It resembles a potato in composition and flavor, and practically any recipe for pota- toes may be adapted to its use. EGGPLANT Purple eggplant, shining as though varnished, is one of the most beautiful of vegetables. It has always seemed too bad that the glossy dark skin must be discarded when eating. Eggplant is best known when slices of it have been batter- or crumb-dipped and fried. But it combines well with the ver- satile tomato, when cubes of the eggplant are seasoned in alternating layers with the sliced tomato, but- tered crumbs topping the whole, to be baked with an entire oven din- ner. The eggplant makes a wonder- fully fine main dish for the vege- table dinner when prepared as di- rected here. It shrinks a good deal, so generous estimates should be made when buying. In buying, select plump fruits of good color, 6 to 9 inches in diame- ter. Eggplants are of good flavor after they are one-third grown, but when over-ripe they are pithy and poor in flavor. ENDIVE Endive is really a chicory, and slightly bitter in flavor. It is blanched and used as a salad, or cooked as chard or spinach. It is Herbs and Flavorings 19 grown very little in the West be- cause of the greater ease with which lettuce is cultivated. Escarole A variety of endive more suited to cooking. Less bitter than chic- ory. Cook it like spinach. CARBANZO A legume called the chick pea, used by Mexicans and now being grown rather extensively in south- ern California. Cook and use like other dried beans (see page 34).. FINNOCHIO, OR FENNEL Fleshy stalks, bulbous at base. Cut in small pieces and add to vege- table salads (do not use too much) ; or slice crosswise in very thin slices, dip in fritter batter, and fry very quickly in deep fat. Anise is rather similar in appearance but different in taste. Cut in quarters length- wise, it is a frequent addition to Italian hors d'ceuvre plates. HERBS AND FLAVORINGS FROM THE GARDEN Every Western homemaker ought to take advantage of the heritage of flavor brought to this land by peoples of all races. In other words, every Western home should have an herb garden, whether in the form of a real bed of various aromatic plants, or a scattering of such plants among the flowers in the perennial border, or in a decorative straw- berry jar or two in the rear garden, or merely in a kitchen windowbox. They are quite easy to grow, most of them being raised from seeds with the exception of tarragon, which is grown from roots or cut- tings. Mint, watercress, and chervil like cool, shady beds; the others prefer as much sun as possible, to develop their oils. If green, fresh herbs are lacking, the dried herbs can be used very nicely. One caution is worth repeating: the use of herbs will give variety to one's cooking, but do not use too many in one dish or in one menu, nor serve them too often. Basilica, or sweet basil. Much used by Italian cooks in soups and sauces, especially tomato sauce. Chervil. Has delicate parsley flavor. Add, chopped with chives and tarragon, to potato salad. Use in soups. Sprinkle over buttered cauliflower or string beans. Chives. Tiny plants with deli- cate flavor of onion. Use green tops, cut off close to ground and chopped fine. Sprinkle over sliced tomatoes; add to any vegetable salad; add to buttered new pota- toes, with or without parsley. DHL Fresh dill, that is in the markets in the autumn, is fine with new boiled potatoes. It is some- thing like tarragon. Fennel. Use in fish sauces ; chop and add to mayonnaise for a differ- ent cold sauce for fish. Garlic. Onion flavor magnified several times, plus a pungency all its own. An excellent addition to many dishes used with great discre- tion. Tiny slivers inserted in leg of lamb before roasting help the flavor wonderfully. Crush a clove of gar- lic and add to a cupful of salad or cooking oil; let stand a while, then dip lamb chops in this oil before broiling. Drop a clove of garlic into the jar of French dressing for vegetables, meat, or fish salad; or rub the salad bowl with a cut clove 20 Western Vegetables of garlic. When in doubt, use less than you are first inclined to ! Marjoram. Add to stuffings for vegetables, as eggplant, summer squash, tomatoes, etc. Mint that is, spearmint. Use in sauces (hot or cold) and gravies with lamb; use to flavor jellies (apple jelly is good), ices, and des- sert sauces. Oregano. This is Spanish sage, and is used with dried chili pep- pers, cumin seed, rosemary, and saffron, in Spanish cooking. Parsley. Excellent for flavoring as well as garnishing dishes. Add a sprig to various soups or sauces, and remove before serving ; sprinkle chopped parsley over cream soups after serving, to add color and fla- vor as well. To make parsley vine- gar, for salads, etc., wash and put into a jar, and cover with any good vinegar. Let stand at least a week. You will find a parsley mincer prac- tically indispensable for chopping any of these fresh green herbs. Use it on a board, of course. Rosemary. Particularly good with lamb : mix minced garlic, pars- ley, and rosemary, and tuck into slashes in leg of lamb before roast- ing. Drop a sprig of rosemary into cream of chicken and other soups while cooking, and remove before serving. Sage. One of our most familiar herbs. Comes to us from England. Sage is extremely easy to grow in the garden, and a few plants will supply the entire neighborhood. Summer Savory. Good to add to numerous made dishes, as cro- quettes, meat balls, rolled steak, veal birds, meat stuffiings for pep- pers, onions, tomatoes, and so on. Tarragon. Mince and add to green salads, or to tartar sauce. Mince with chives and fresh thyme and spread over an omelet before folding it. Cream with butter and chopped chives and parsley and spread over broiled hamburg steak. Tarragon vinegar, used in salad dressings, fish sauces, and numer- ous dishes that need a touch of tart- ness and flavor, is expensive to buy but easy to make: simply gather perfect leaves before the heat of the day, wash well, put into a jar, and cover with ordinary good cider or wine vinegar. Will be ready for use in about a week and will keep in- definitely. Thyme. Use in stuffings for tur- key or chicken, with sage and mar- joram. Watercress. Not merely a salad green. Is an excellent garnish. Mince watercress fine and cream with butter, for spreading sand- wiches; fill with cheese or boiled ham or other meats, if desired. Soup Bouquet : Tie together with thread a sprig each of thyme, pars- ley, and bay, and a few cloves. A stalk of celery, a carrot, and a leek may be added. Drop into soups or stews while cooking ; remove before serving. This is the bouquet garni of French cookery. KOHLRABI Kohlrabi is hard to classify. It looks like a root, but grows above the ground, in pale green globes, with leaves sprouting from the sides. It is a distant cousin of the turnip, and may be cooked in much the same way, giving its own con- tribution to vegetable soups and meat stews, and adding not only its flavor but delicate green cubes to many a vegetable plate. Kohlrabi may be creamed, or seasoned very simply, or used as a component of raw vegetable salad. Only a thin peeling need be taken off in prepar- ing it. Onions 21 MUSHROOMS Mushrooms, fresh, canned, or dried, are favorites indeed. In pre- paring the fresh ones, wash lightly, remove bad spots, but do not peel unless the skin is very tough. Slice lengthwise if large, and cook in but- ter for 5 to 10 minutes before add- ing to sauce. When using canned mushrooms, drain, and use the liquid in making the sauce. As for dried mushrooms, wash them quickly, then put them to soak for half an hour in warm water to cover. Lift out mushrooms, strain the remaining liquid to remove sedi- ment, and use in the sauce. Add mushrooms to almost any combination of meats, vegetables, or eggs, to improve the dish decidedly. Italian pot roast with dried mush- rooms added is a delicious dish. ONIONS AND THEIR RELATIVES Many members of the onion fam- ily are used more commonly in the West than throughout the nation generally. Leeks, for example. Al- most all year bunches of leeks, look- ing like overgrown green onions, may be found in Western markets. Unlike the green onions, whose mild-flavored cousins they are, leek tops are tender and mild. Usually leeks may be cut into two tender sections, each three or four inches long. When stewed, seasoned with butter, salt and pepper or paprika, and served on crisp toast, they make a delicious addition to the steak din- ner, or to one featuring roast chicken or duck. Many who frown on salads with green onions will welcome the same salad mixture when sliced leeks are used instead. Then there are chives; those cun- ning, tiny little onions whose tops, chopped, add such a delicate flavor touch to salads, cheese mixtures, and such. Ordinary green onion tops, chopped in about quarter-inch lengths, are used by clever Western cooks in potato and other salads, in tomato sauces, and the like, and to sprinkle over such meat dishes as pot roast, as a flavorous bit of gar- nish, before bringing to the table. FRENCH ONION SOUP EN CASSEROLE 6 medium-sized onions, sliced 2 tablespoonf uls of butter 3 cupfuls of plain stock (or bou- illon made from cubes or beef extract) YZ teaspoonful of salt 1 teaspoonful of A-l sauce or kitchen bouquet Y% teaspoonful of celery salt Dash of pepper 6 slices of French bread Grated Parmesan cheese Fry the onions light brown in the butter, then add the other ingredi- ents, and cook gently for 10 or 15 minutes. Pour into a large casse- role, or into six individual ones. Place the French bread on top, sprinkle generously with the cheese, and put into a hot oven until the cheese is melted and well browned. Serve in the casserole, with more cheese. FRIED ONIONS Onions may be fried in various ways. In any case, the onions must first be peeled and then cut in slices. To fry onions in deep fat, as is done in the better restaurants, cut the peeled onions in slices about a third of an inch thick. Then slash each slice to the center, so that the onion will be in strings. Roll these pieces in slightly beaten egg white, diluted 22 Western Vegetables with Y cupful of milk or water to each egg white, dust them with salt and pepper and toss in fine, dry bread crumbs. Have a frying kettle half-filled with oil, and heat this so that it will brown a bit of bread in a minute (375). Put the prepared onion in a frying basket, plunge this in the hot fat and cook until the onion is golden brown. Drain on crumpled paper. To pan-fry them, pour in just enough oil barely to cover the bottom, then add the sliced onions, dusting them with a little salt and a trace of pepper, and fry them gently, lifting them occa- sionally with a broad-bladed knife so they will not be burned. When done, they should be light brown and very tender. POTAGE SOUBISE 6 large onions 3 tablespoon fuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 y*. teaspoonf uls of salt Y% teaspoonful of pepper Slight grating of nutmeg 1 quart of white stock (veal or chicken) 1 pint of rich milk legg 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Peel and slice the onions and cook in the three tablespoonfuls of butter for 5 minutes, being careful not to brown the butter or onions. Add flour and seasonings, and when the flour is well mixed with the onions, add stock and cook for 30 minutes. Rub through a sieve, add milk, and boil one minute. Add egg slightly beaten and mixed with a little cold milk or cream, and the two tablespoonfuls of butter a little at a time. Be careful that the soup does not boil after the egg is added. Season as necessary until it tastes just right. Serve with croutons or bread dice sauted in butter. A SIMPLE ONION SOUP 3 onions 2 tablespoonfuls of bacon fat 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 cupfuls of boiling water 3 medium-sized potatoes, boiled and mashed 1 quart of hot milk 2 teaspoonfuls of salt y% teaspoonful of pepper 2 tablespoonfuls of parsley chopped fine Peel and slice the onions, and cook in the bacon fat until they are soft; add flour, mix, then slowly add the boiling water, and stir until the mixture is smooth. Add the mashed potatoes to the hot milk. Add seasonings, and combine the potato and onion mixtures. Bring to boiling point, strain, add chopped parsley, and serve with fried bread dice. In place of the potato, if desired, you may use 3 slices of stale bread. PEAS (See also Vegetables General, page 33) PEAS A LA MADAME Cut into quarters one small head of lettuce. Place in a casserole with a No. 2 can of small peas (or 2 cup- fuls of fresh peas and *4 cupful of water) and 1 small onion, chopped. Add salt, pepper, y 2 teaspoonful of sugar, and 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter. Cover tightly, and bake slowly for 45 minutes to an hour, with an oven meal. Two tablespoonfuls of cream may be added before serving. PEPPERS Peppers, which belong to the nightshade family, are of many types. Pimientos 23 Sweet Peppers. There are two groups of peppers: the hot or pun- gent varieties, classed as spices, and the large, sweet peppers used as vegetables or in salads, pickles, and relishes. These sweet peppers are grown for market in California in quantities. For use as a fresh vege- table peppers should be full-grown but not turned red. Brown discolo- ration is a sign of decay. Perfect shapes are more desirable for stuf- fing, but for mincing or cutting the misshapen ones are often usable. Anaheim Chili. The best-known hot pepper. Long pods. Used for chili con carne, tamales. Alternate spellings chile and chilli. Bell. A sweet green or red pep- per used for seasonings, salads, and for stuffing; Cayenne. A hot variety from which cayenne pepper is made. Mexican Chili. A long, hot pep- per similar to the Anaheim. Pimiento. A mild, sweet pepper with thick meat used for canning. Often confused with pimento, which is allspice from the allspice tree. Tabasco. A hot seasoning made from small, red, pungent "bird pep- pers." CHILI PEPPER FRITTERS Chili pepper fritters are attractive and delicious. Use the long, green chili peppers. Wash, cut, and take out seeds and veins. Place in a pan in hot oven until they blister. Re- move from the oven and plunge in cold water, then peel. Cut a nar- row piece of American cheese the length of the pepper, and place it inside the cavity. Dip the pepper in batter and fry until brown. Make the batter by sifting together \ l /$ cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and % teaspoonful of salt. Mix with % cupful of milk, and 1 egg, beaten until light. (See also "Chiles Rellenos," in chapter, "Favorite Foreign Reci- pes.") GREEN PEPPERS A LA SEATTLE This unusual way of stuffing green peppers provides an entire dinner in one kettle. Most men en- joy it very much. 6 green peppers YI pound of sausage y 2 pound of hamburger 1 medium onion, chopped 1 head of cabbage Wash cabbage, cut not too fine, and put into a kettle, ready to cook, but do not add water. Wash the peppers and remove the seeds. Mix the sausage, hamburger, onion, and salt and pepper. Then stuff the pep- pers with this meat mixture and place in the kettle on top of the cabbage. Pour in enough water to cook the cabbage, add salt, and cover with a tight lid. Cook until the meat is cooked (about an hour). This served with salad and dessert makes a very good supper. PIMIENTOS The true pimientos, looking like small, very smooth sweet red pep- pers, too often are known only as they come from the can. They lend themselves to use both raw and cooked. Rings of their bright, fresh scarlet, linked together across the crisp, white fringed leaves of an en- dive salad, present a picture that is almost too lovely to disturb. Seeded and parboiled, perhaps 8 or 10 min- utes, until tender, they may be used as most delightfully colored and fla- vored cups for golden buttered corn. Small sizes make a truly beautiful garnish for the pork roast platter. 24 Western Vegetables RICE California rice, grown under ir- rigation in the interior valleys of the state, differs from the chubby long-grain southern rice and the slender-long grain Japan rice in that its grains are short and rounded. Both polished (white) and unpol- ished (natural brown) rice are on the market. This California-grown cereal may be cooked in any of the ways recom- mended for rice generally. The first step toward cooking it really well is thorough washing and then more washing of the rice grains. A mere half-hearted rinsing under the fau- cet is not at all sufficient. A good procedure is to measure the rice into a fine wire strainer and place this over a bowl under the cold water faucet. As the water runs, rub and scrub the rice grains be- tween the hands, until at last the water runs clear. Then, and only then, is it ready to be cooked. Cooks who know rice do not add salt to the cooking water, as this yellows the cereal. Take your choice of the following methods of cook- ing rice : BOILED RICE In order to have about 2 cupfuls of cooked rice, sprinkle ^2 cupful of well-washed rice into 2 quarts of briskly boiling water, so that water does not stop boiling, and cook rap- idly, uncovered (to avoid boiling over) for 15 to 20 minutes, or until a kernel is tender when rubbed be- tween the fingers. Lift or stir oc- casionally with a fork if necessary, to prevent sticking. Drain through a strainer and pour boiling water through to rinse away loose starch. Return to kettle and place over very low heat or in open oven to dry out slightly. The grains should be sep- arate and fluffy. Serve hot with butter or creamed meat or fish, or use as desired. STEAMED RICE (Oriental style) Allow at least 2 cupfuls of hot or cold water for each cupful of well- washed rice. Put into a large kettle, cover tightly, and put over quick heat. Cook briskly for 10 minutes after water reaches boiling. Turn down heat, or set kettle where it will have heat enough to cook with- out actively boiling. In 20 to 30 minutes the rice should be soft and dry, with each grain separate. BROWN RICE Add 1 cupful of well - washed brown rice to 2 l / 2 cupfuls of boiling water ; shake pan to level rice, cover tightly, and cook over very low heat for 40 to 45 minutes. The rice will then be dry and ready to serve. RICE CROQUETTES 2 cupfuls of cooked rice 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 egg yolks Beaten egg Sifted bread crumbs Tart jelly Into the hot rice, which should be cooked very soft, beat the butter and egg yolks; spread on a platter, and set aside to cool. Cut or mold into round or oval cakes with a de- pression in the top of each. Roll in slightly beaten egg with a little water, then in fine crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat (390) for about a minute, or until delicately browned. Drain, put a dot of jelly in the de- pression of each croquette, and serve on the platter with game or poultry. Rice 25 WILD RICE Wild rice grows in the swamps of the West, but is not harvested to any great extent. It is, however, a favorite accompaniment for wild duck during the Western hunting season. To cook it, look over and wash in cold water, then put into boiling salted water or into boiling meat stock to cover, and cook briskly for about 30 minutes. Drain ; add butter and salt and pepper to taste, and serve piping hot. BROWNED RICE CAKES TO SERVE WITH MEATS Cook 1 cupful of rice with 3 cup- fuls of hot milk in double boiler for 45 minutes. When nearly done, add butter the size of a walnut, and salt to taste. Pack tightly in small pan. When cold, turn out, slice, roll in flour, and fry brown in butter. RICE OMELET Add 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley and y 2 cupful of cooked white or brown rice to the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, with 3 tablespoon- fuls of milk or water. Fold in the beaten whites and cook slowly in a buttered frying pan ; finish in a hot oven to dry off the top. Fold, turn out, and serve with a well-seasoned tomato sauce. RED RICE 1 small can of tomatoes (2 cupfuls) 1 cupful of steamed rice 5/2 tablespoonful of salt 2 slices of bacon, finely chopped Dash of cayenne pepper 1 green pepper, chopped Stew tomatoes, and stir in rice with a fork. Add the other ingre- dients and simmer for about 30 min- utes, or place in a baking dish in the oven for the same length of time, if preferred. CREEN RICE This rice dish is unusual and very good. Cook 1 cupful of rice. Add 1 cupful of milk, 1 egg, 1 cupful of grated cheese, half a large green pepper (minced), ^2 cupful of pars- ley (minced), and half a clove of garlic. Mix thoroughly, put into a baking dish, and pour over it ^ cupful of salad oil. Bake about one hour in a moderate oven (350). BAKED ITALIAN RICE 4 cupfuls of cooked rice 1 cupful of stoned olives, cut in pieces Y?. cupful of onions, cooked and cut in pieces y* can of chilies, cut up Y-2. pound of grated cheese 1 large can of tomatoes and juice 1 tablespoonful of butter Put rice, olives, and onions in a casserole and mix with a fork. Add chilies and half of cheese, and mix. Then over all pour tomatoes (which have been mashed fine) and juice. Sprinkle cheese over top and dot with butter. Bake from 2 to 24 of an hour in a moderate oven (375). This is a fine substitute for meat, and is as good cold as hot. RICE BUTTERSCOTCH l /3 cupful of rice \ l / 2 cupfuls of scalded milk 1 cupful of brown sugar l /4 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Wash the rice very thoroughly, put into a double boiler, and add the milk. Cover and cook until nearly tender. Mix in a saucepan the brown sugar, salt, and butter, and stir over a slow fire until the sugar is melted. Stir into the rice and finish cooking. Pour into molds, cool, and serve with either plain or whipped cream. 26 Western Vegetables TUNA FISH AND RICE 1 can of tuna fish or 1 cupful of salmon \y? cupfuls of steamed rice 3 tablespoon fuls of butter \y 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 cupfuls of milk ^2 cupful of grated cheese 1 teaspoonful of salt Y% teaspoonful of pepper Y% teaspoonful of paprika With a fork, just roughly blend together fish and rice. Melt butter, add flour, add milk slowly and stir until smooth. Add cheese, salt, pep- per, and paprika. Place rice and fish in an oiled baking dish, pour cheese sauce over, and bake in a moderate oven (350) until a delicate brown. OLD-FASHIONED BAKED RICE PUDDING Add y 2 cupful of washed rice to ^/2 quarts of milk, ^ cupful of sugar, and y 2 teaspoonful of vanilla in a baking dish. Bake for 2 to 3 hours very slowly (at 250), occa- sionally stirring in the brown crust that forms. CHOCOLATE RICE PUDDING y* cupful of uncooked rice 4 cupfuls of milk 2 /3 cupful of sugar y^ teaspoonful of salt y$ cupful of ground chocolate Mix ingredients and turn into a buttered casserole and bake in a moderate oven (375) until a gold- en brown on top. BROWN-SUGARED RICE This dish is boiled rice, either with or without raisins. After the rice is cooked, and is still steaming hot, pour it into a deep dish which has in the bottom of it a cupful of brown sugar. When this is cooled, turn out and serve with rich cream. The brown sugar melts and settles into the rice, lending a sweetness and a delicate flavor that makes a new dish out of boiled rice. SALSIFY Salsify, looking somewhat like a small parsnip with rough, brown skin, darkens quickly when scraped, so should be protected by being cleaned under water, then dropped as cut into salted or slightly acidu- lated cold water, (Use 1 tablespoon- ful of vinegar to each quart of water.) Though the flavor is good when salsify is cooked and seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper, the grayish color is somewhat against it. A better appearance is given by a cream or cheese sauce, or when it is used in combination with corn in a scalloped dish. Cream soup, fla- vored with salsify, really resembles that made with oysters. SCALLOPED SALSIFY This makes a nice substitute for scalloped oysters for holiday menus. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 cupfuls of milk and water Scrape and cut enough salsify into half -inch slices to measure 1 quart. Cook tender in a small amount of salted water. Add the salsify to a thin cream sauce made by melting 3 tablespoonfuls of but- ter, smoothing 3 tablespoonfuls of flour into it, and adding 2 cupfuls of milk, part of which may be the water drained from the cooked sal- sify. Cook slowly and stir until smooth. Add the salsify, season with salt and pepper to taste, pour into a buttered baking dish and cover gen- erously with buttered bread or cracker crumbs. Bake in a mod- Squash 27 erate oven of 350 degrees for 25 minutes. Serves six. SPINACH (See also Vegetables General, page 33.) SPINACH LOAF WITH TOMATO SAUCE Drain 1*4 cupfuls of cooked or canned spinach. Chop fine and add 1 cupful of sifted dry bread crumbs, 1 cupful of grated cheese, 1 well- beaten egg, 1 teaspoon ful of salt, a dash of pepper, and 1 tablespoon ful of lemon juice. Pour into a buttered bread pan and bake in a moderate oven (350) about 25 minutes, or steam over boiling water about the same length of time. When cooked, unmold on a platter and pour 2 cup- fuls of hot tomato sauce around the loaf. SQUASH Squash, as such, is scarcely a "Native Son of the Golden West" ; yet in what Eastern-written cook book will you find mention of zuc- chini, the little green Italian summer squash so much used throughout the West? There are several types of sum- mer squash (really summer pump- kins, used green) that are popular here: Crook-neck, usually deep yel- low but sometimes white with warty skin, and a long, crooked neck; cushaw, smooth, with curved or straight neck and enlarged "body" ; vegetable marrow or English mar- row (which zucchini resembles), about the shape of a cucumber, cream color to dark green with lighter stripes running lengthwise; the patty pan, quaintly scalloped, pale green or white, and shaped like a small shallow bowl; the cream squash, round with thin, white skin and yellow meat, bordering slightly on the winter type of squash. There is also the New Guinea Bean, a nov- elty vine which develops a fruit two to three feet long. The "bean" may be sliced or diced and cooked as di- rected for summer squash generally. A "new" variety of squash for the American table but one which has been a staple food for centuries in some Central American countries is the chayote (cha-yo'-tay), a one- seeded squash sometimes called veg- etable pear, mango squash, or mirli- ton. In the last few years there has been increasing interest in the grow- ing of chayotes for home use and local markets in the West. The fruit varies in size from three ounces to three pounds. The chayote may be plain boiled, mashed, fried, stuffed and baked, used cold in salads, in fritters, or made into sweet pickle. Unlike most other squash, the chayote holds its form perfectly after being cooked. Its flavor is delicate to some per- sons it tastes like stewed oysters. The root, which becomes tuberlike after the first season, is starchy and may be boiled and eaten. Common summer squash is so easily grown in the home garden that every home in Sunset Land might well have six or eight hills of squash which number will un- doubtedly be sufficient to supply the entire neighborhood! It is at the same time one of the least expensive vegetables to buy in the market, and is the simplest thing possible to cook. In choosing summer squash of any variety, select those that are not too large, for the seeds in large ones will be coarse and unpleasant. The skin should be so tender as to be easily cut by the thumb nail. Small firm squash is best always, except possibly for stuffing. 28 Western Vegetables How to Cook All shapes and sizes of Western summer squash may be cooked whole, without peeling, in a covered saucepan with just enough boiling salted water to keep them from burning. (If seeds are coarse, re- move them before cooking.) The vegetable may then be mashed and seasoned and served at once, or served without mashing. This vege- table may also be quartered or diced and cooked as directed above, then mashed if desired, or may be added to a small amount of well-seasoned cream sauce. Other ways of pre- paring the different varieties are given below. SUMMER SQUASH, BOILED Pare and cut in slices three sum- mer squashes, remove the seeds if coarse, and cut the slices into cubes. Put them into a saucepan, barely cover with boiling water, add a tea- spoonful of salt, and boil 15 to 20 minutes. When done, drain in a col- ander and press gently ; then mash fine, turn into a strainer cloth, and squeeze until the squash is dry. Now put into a small saucepan a table- spoonful of butter and the squash, add salt and pepper to taste, stir un- til thoroughly heated, and serve. FRIED SUMMER SQUASH, SIMPLICITY Cut into slices, dust with salt and pepper; dip first in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in a small amount of hot fat in a skillet. Serve as egg plant, with tomato sauce or cream sauce. SUMMER SQUASH, FRIED IN BATTER Wash and slice squash, sprinkle with salt, and let stand until time for cooking. Make a batter of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 table- spoonfuls of corn meal, and just enough milk to make a thick batter. Beat thoroughly, then dip slices of squash into the batter and drop into a frying pan of deep hot fat (370). Let brown, drain on crumpled paper, and serve hot. SUMMER SQUASH AND CATSUP Boil quartered summer squash un- covered till just tender. Add butter, salt and pepper to taste. Serve with tomato catsup. SUMMER SQUASH, NATIVE SON Cut off the corn from four ears. Wash one pound of summer squash, and cut in one-inch cubes. Put them, with the corn, in a bowl and add 3 peeled tomatoes cut in cubes. In a casserole put 1 chopped onion with half a cube of butter, and simmer until yellow, then add the corn, to- mato, and squash, season with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. STUFFED SQUASH Parboil whole 15 minutes. Re- move a slice from blossom end of flat squashes ; cut long squashes in half lengthwise. Remove seeds and fill the center with : l /4 cupful of cooked rice y^ cupful of soft crumbs y* teaspoonful of salt 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice 3 tablespoonfuls of butter or bacon fat An egg may be added A slice of bacon may be placed on each squash Cover bottom of the pan with water, put in squash, and bake until tender, basting occasionally. Squash 29 BAKED SQUASH Steam or parboil the whole squash 15 minutes. Cut long squash in half lengthwise ; remove a slice from end of flat squashes. Place salt, sugar, and butter on each squash. Bake in a slow oven till tender. In- stead of sugar and butter, a strip of bacon may be placed on each squash. SUMMER SQUASH CUSTARD 2 pounds of summer squash Y-2, pound of well-flavored Ameri- can cheese Pepper y<2. teaspoonful of salt 2 eggs 24 cupful of milk Corn flakes 1 tablespoonful of butter Boil the summer squash until very tender, drain, and put into a deep baking dish. Add the cheese, except a little which should be re- served for the top, cut in small pieces. Add a bit of pepper and the salt, the eggs beaten just enough to blend yolks and whites, and the milk. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top of the squash, then cover all with crushed corn flakes. Dot with butter and bake slowly (at 325) for 30 minutes, or until the top becomes a delicious brown and the mixture is firm when tested with a silver knife. Italian Squash Here are eight favorite ways of preparing Italian summer squash, or zucchini. FRENCH FRIED ZUCCHINI 6 zucchini or more 3 eggs 1 cupful of salad oil 1 teaspoonful of salt Cut the zucchini lengthwise in thin slices, and dip first in salted flour, then in the 3 eggs beaten up well. Heat the cupful of oil in a heavy skillet. When hot, put in the zucchini a few slices at a time and fry until golden brown on both sides. Pile on a hot platter and sprinkle with salt. Serve hot. Deli- cious with steak. ZUCCHINI WITH CHEESE 6 or 8 small Italian squash, sliced thin without peeling 1 small onion, sliced thin 3 tablespoonf uls of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of salad oil Pinch of salt Sprinkle of pepper and allspice Tomato sauce (if desired) Fry the squash and onion with the butter and oil until a nice brown. Sprinkle with salt and allspice. Put on a hot platter, sprinkle with grated Italian cheese, and serve at once. If tomato sauce is desired, a small amount may be added after the squash is fried. It should then be heated through thoroughly, or put into the oven for a few minutes before serving. BROILED ZUCCHINI Slice the squash lengthwise, about one-quarter-inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with salt and pepper, and dredge very lightly with flour. Sprinkle generously with salad oil. On a baking sheet which has been rubbed with a cut clove of garlic and then oiled lightly place the slices of squash, and bake in a hot oven (450) for 20 to 30 minutes, or until very tender when tried with a fork. If not sufficiently brown, they may be slipped under the broil- ing flame for a few minutes. Serve with broiled lamb chops, baked po- tatoes, and a green salad, for a de- licious meal 30 Western Vegetables ESCALLOPED ZUCCHINI WITH CHEESE 2 tablespoonf tils of fat 1 medium-sized onion, sliced 1 clove of garlic 4 medium-sized zucchini or sum- mer squash, cut into 1-inch cubes without peeling 1 can of tomatoes 1 tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley y 2 cupful of cracker crumbs Seasonings y 2 cupful of cheese Place fat in skillet and, when hot, add onion and cook for 5 minutes, then add garlic, slightly bruised and mashed. Cook for a few minutes, then remove the garlic. Add the zucchini or squash, together with tomatoes, parsley, and cracker crumbs. Season well, and pour into a casserole, sprinkle cheese over the top, and bake in a moderate oven (350) with cover on casserole for 45 minutes, or until tender, then remove cover and let brown nicely. STUFFED ZUCCHINI (With meat) 1 pound of hamburger 54 cupful of uncooked rice, washed thoroughly % cupful of milk y 2 onion, cut in small pieces 1 teaspoonful of salt y 2 teaspoonful of pepper 6 or 8 medium-sized squash 1 can of tomato puree Mix hamburger, rice, milk, onion, salt, and pepper well together. Cut off stem ends of squash and scoop out centers. Fill with meat mixture packed loosely to give rice room to expand. Put the tomato puree into a large kettle or waterless cooker; heat, then lay the stuffed squash carefully in the warm tomato sauce. Let simmer slowly for an hour, or until rice is soft. Serve with tomato sauce over the top. Any left-over meat may be cooked, dropped into the tomato sauce around the squash, and also the squash that was scooped out from the centers. This all makes a very delicious one-dish meal. BAKED STUFFED ZUCCHINI (Without meat) 6 Italian squash, medium size y 2 a small loaf of dry bread 1 teaspoonful of salt y 2 teaspoonful of pepper y 2 teaspoonful of thyme or sage 1 small onion, chopped fine 1 egg, beaten Wash the squash and cut off both ends. Boil 20 minutes, or until tender, then drain. When cool, cut in halves lengthwise and with a tea- spoon scoop out the centers. Crumble the bread into small pieces, add the salt, pepper, thyme, onion, centers of squash, and the beaten egg. Mix thoroughly. Place the squash shells in a well-oiled baking pan and then fill them with the mix- ture. Sprinkle with grated American or Italian cheese and a little oil, and bake in a moderate oven (375) for 20 minutes or until tender and brown. Serves six persons, allowing two halves to each person. That same convenient little hol- low may hold any one of several kinds of meat. Small sausage balls, link sausages, pork chops, bacon strips, and small cubes of salt pork all serve to make a good vegetable taste still better. SIMPLE ESCALLOPED ZUCCHINI Steam zucchini or chayotes. Place in baking dish in layers alternating with grated cheese and soft crumbs, seasoning each layer. Bake until brown in a moderate oven (375). Squash 31 ZUCCHINI BAKED WITH BACON Zucchini about the size of salad cucumbers may be split in half, un- peeled, the cut side covered with a slice of bacon, the two halves put together and held in place with toothpicks, then baked until brown and tender, about half an hour in a moderate (375) oven. Danish Squash The Danish squashes begin to ar- rive late in summer, and then their fine yellow meat resembles the more firm varieties of summer squash. When fully ripe the texture is much drier, but still has the same fine quality. At any time these little squash will steam or bake with re- markable speed; 15 to 25 minutes is sufficient cooking time. The convenient size (a half squash usually making one good serving) adapts it to ever so many forms of serving. Coming as the first ones do, in the height of the tomato season, suggests fitting half a tomato into the hollowed-out squash. Seasonings and buttered crumbs top off both, and half an hour in a moderate oven brings to the table a very good-looking and delicious vegetable, a fine one for the vegetable dinner. Winter Squash Besides the old national favorite, the Hubbard squash, at least two other varieties of winter squash are popular here in the West : the small Danish or Table Queen squash, green to orange in color, and the banana squash, large and long, and a soft orange in color as to both shell and flesh. The cream squash, mentioned under summer squash, is also treated as a hard-shell squash. STEAMED WINTER SQUASH Put prepared pieces of squash into perforated upper part of steamer, cover tightly, and fit into lower part of steamer in which are about three inches of boiling water. Cook until squash is just tender, al- lowing ^4 to Yz longer time than that advised above for baking. Re- move from steamer, add salt and butter or other seasonings, and serve at once; or scrape from the shell, mash and season and serve in a bowl. WINTER SQUASH, BAKED Buy any amount desired (your grocer will cut off a piece the size you wish) ; cut into serving-size pieces, scrape off fiber and seeds, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot with butter, and bake until tender (15 to 25 minutes for banana squash, 45 to 60 minutes for Hub- bard) in a moderate to hot oven (375 to 425). Serve at once, with butter. SQUASH SOUFFLE 2 cupfuls of hot, steamed squash */4 cupful of butter 2 tablespoonf uls of brown sugar 1 teaspoon ful of salt Y% teaspoonful of pepper 1^ cupfuls of half milk and cream 2 beaten egg yolks 2 egg whites, beaten stiff Force squash through a sieve, add the brown sugar, butter, salt, pep- per, milk, cream, and egg yolks beaten. Fold in the beaten egg whites and place in a buttered bak- ing dish. Bake in a moderate oven of 350 degrees until firm and lightly browned. This makes a delicious dish for the Christmas dinner. 32 Western Vegetables SWEET POTATOES SWEET POTATOES FRIED IN MARMALADE 4 or 5 sweet potatoes (canned ones may be used) 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 3 tablespoonfuls of orange mar- malade Seasonings of salt and pepper to taste Boil sweet potatoes with skins on. When tender, drain, peel, and slice. Heat the butter in a skillet, add the marmalade, then the sliced potatoes, and fry until brown. Add season- ings of salt and pepper to taste. MISS SHAPLEIGH'S SWEET POTATOES IN CASSEROLE Pare raw sweet potatoes and cut them in sticks as for French fried potatoes. Put into a casserole a layer of the potatoes ; sprinkle over them about 2 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and distribute about a tablespoonful of butter in dots, then dust with a mere suspicion of cinna- mon. Repeat until potatoes are used. Pour about l /4 cupful of water into the casserole, put on the cover, and bake slowly (at 325) for from an hour to an hour and a half, stirring once or twice; remove the lid the last 30 minutes in order to dry off and brown the potatoes slightly. TOMATOES STUFFED TOMATO SALAD 6 firm tomatoes 1 cupful of celery, cut fine y 2 cupful of minced ripe olives Yt cupful of shredded shrimp Mayonnaise Seasonings Peel tomatoes. Scoop out a small quantity of pulp from the center of each. Sprinkle the inside with salt, invert and let stand to chill. Mix celery, olives, shrimps, and season- ings with mayonnaise to moisten. Fill tomatoes with mixture, garnish with mayonnaise, and serve on crisp lettuce. FRIED TOMATOES 6 medium-sized, solid tomatoes Flour, salt, pepper, and sugar }/2 pint of cream Wash the tomatoes, but do not peel them. Cut in halves crosswise, dredge with flour, and season with salt and pepper and a little sugar. Fry in butter until a nice brown, let simmer a few minutes, then pour the cream over and cook a few min- utes longer. Serve on rounds of hot toast. These make a delightful main dish for lunch, or may be served at dinner if the menu is not otherwise very rich. Whether this is an ex- pensive dish or not depends upon the current price of cream. TOMATO SANDWICH SALAD Put slices of tomatoes together with filling of mashed avocado, or cottage cheese, mixed with chopped chives or onions. Top with mayon- naise. BROILED TOMATOES Wash but do not peel tomatoes; cut them in halves crosswise, and dip cut surfaces in salad oil or melted fat, then in seasoned flour and cornmeal. Place in a baking pan, skin side down, and broil gently until tomatoes are tender and nicely browned on top. Tomatoes prepared thus may be fried in oil or butter instead of being broiled. JELLIED TOMATO SOUP An interesting, different appetizer with which to start a dinner on a sultry day is jellied tomato soup. Vegetables (Genera!) 33 This is nothing more than tomatoes to which gelatine has been added. When firm and cold, the jelly is put through a ricer or sieve and served in cold soup dishes with a garnish of salted whipped cream. Here is a good recipe to use : TOMATO JELLY 1 quart of canned tomatoes 1 cupful of water 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar 1 sliced onion 3 cloves 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine y 2 cupful of cold water Combine the tomatoes, water, and seasonings and simmer 20 minutes. Strain. There should be about 3 cupfuls of the juice. Soak the gela- tine 5 minutes in the cold water ; add it to the hot tomato mixture, stirring until dissolved. Place in a large dish and chill in the refrigerator until needed. TOMATO CUSTARD 3 eggs 1 No. 2Y-2. can of tomatoes Y-2. onion, grated YT. cupful of cracker meal Salt and pepper Beat eggs slightly, add to toma- toes with seasonings and cracker meal. Bake in individual molds in a pan of water in a moderate oven (350) until set, about 30 minutes. Turn out on squares of hot toast and serve with cheese sauce. Little red or yellow pear-shaped tomatoes, abundant in September and October, are much used for pickles and preserves. They are equally good for salads, especially those of fish or chicken where a tomato garnish is desired. VEGETABLES (GENERAL) Vegetables, in general, fall into a few definite classes, according to the way in which they should be cooked. It is easy to remember these general rules, and, once they are learned, it is rarely necessary to look in a cook book to find out how to cook even an unfamiliar vege- table. First of all, we want to preserve the attractive fresh appearance as well as the flavor of the vegetable, whatever it may be. Slow cooking and over-cooking are to be avoided. Always put fresh vegetables to cook in rapidly boiling water, which has been boiling several minutes to drive out the air. This is to reduce oxida- tion of precious vitamins to a mini- mum. Always remove from fire and drain immediately when the vege- table is tender. Here are specific rules for the various groups of vegetables. 1. Cook tender, leafy greens in just the water that clings to them when they are lifted from their final bath of cold water. Put into a ket- tle with a cover to start cooking, until the juices run. Lift or stir oc- casionally to prevent scorching. Cook until barely tender. Time necessary: spinach, 8 to 15 min- utes ; Swiss chard, 20 to 30 minutes. Stronger-flavored greens, as dande- lion, mustard, beet or turnip tops, require water to cover, and should be cooked 20 to 30 minutes. Water in which ham has been boiled is ex- cellent for cooking greens, if not too salty. Drain and chop greens before serving. 2, Cook young, sweet-flavored vegetables (carrots, celery, peas, summer squash, tomatoes) in barely enough boiling salted water to keep them from scorching. To preserve the color of green peas, cook with- 34 Western Vegetables out a lid. A pinch of sugar added helps the flavor. 3. Cook strong-flavored vegeta- bles (all the cabbage family; onions, turnips, rutabagas ; kale, turnip tops, beet greens, dandelion greens, mus- tard greens; old beets or carrots) in a large amount of boiling salted water, uncovered, so that the odor will not be unpleasantly strong in the kitchen or the rest of the house. 4. Cook all other fresh vegetables (green and wax beans ; young beets, asparagus, artichokes, limas, pars- nips, potatoes, sweet corn) in enough boiling salted water to cover. 5. After washing and picking over, soak dried vegetables over- night in water to cover ; drain, cover again with cold water and heat slowly to boiling, then cook gently until tender, adding more water from time to time if necessary, and adding salt and other seasonings if desired during the cooking. Dried beans of all varieties (navy, kidney, black, marrow, lima, and garbanzos or Mexican beans), dried whole or split peas, and lentils belong to this class. The time required runs from about 30 minutes for limas to 3 or 4 hours for navy beans and others. Test by mashing one or two with a fork. Salt pork or a ham bone are favorites for adding flavor to these hearty vegetables. Vegetable Plate Meals (Suggested Combinations) Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce Buttered Carrots and Peas Creamed New Potatoes Broccoli Tomato Custard Buttered Artichoke Cole Slaw Rice au Gratin Baked Stuffed Zucchini (with ham) String Beans Creamed Carrots Sliced Tomatoes Eggplant Creole Corn Fritters Mashed Zucchini Buttered Cauliflower Mashed Rutabagas Creamed Celery Root Baked Sweet Potato Spinach Asparagus and Pea Timbales Cabbage au Gratin Stuffed Baked Summer Squash Buttered Carrots Tomato Stuffed with Halibut Sliced Cucumbers French Fried Zucchini Buttered Rice Mold Bell Peppers Stuffed with Corn Mashed Sweet Potato Creamed Celery Root and Celery Pickled Beets Zucchini Creole Mashed Banana Squash Baked White Potato Lima Beans Corn Creole Cauliflower au Gratin Swiss Chard Buttered Onions Cauliflower with Mock Hollandaise Sauce Broiled Tomatoes Buttered Peas Chopped and Buttered Spinach Carrot Balls Baked Onion Stuffed with Buttered and Seasoned Crumbs Green Corn Glazed Sweet Potato Buttered String Beans Baked Peppers Stuffed with Rice Grilled Eggplant Buttered Beets Cole Slaw with Russian Dressing Baked Carrots Stuffed with Onions Broccoli Baked Potato in Half Shell Fried Macedoine of Tomatoes, Onions, and Green Peppers Beans Asparagus with Browned Butter Sauces for Vegetables 35 Vegetable Salads (For salad dressing recipes, see Index) SAN JOSE RAW VEGETABLE SALAD Combine approximately equal parts of raw spinach, lettuce, cauli- flower cut or chopped fine, and shredded raw carrots. Marinate for 30 to 45 minutes (not longer) in French dressing, and serve on let- tuce. Especially suitable for serving a large number of persons. GREEN COMBINATION SALAD (With French Dressing) 1 head of lettuce 1 head of romaine 1 head of chicory 1 bunch of watercress Wash carefully, separate, and then tear in shreds. Serve in a bowl with French dressing or mayonnaise thinned with lemon juice and highly seasoned with mustard and black pepper. JELLIED COMBINATION VEGETABLE SALAD 2 tablespoonf uls of gelatine Y-2, cupful of cold water 2 cupf uls of boiling water y* cupful white, mild vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice YT. cupful of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 No. 2 can "vegetables for salad" (or 1 pint of mixed fresh cooked vegetables) 1 pimiento, cut fine Soak gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes, then add boiling water, vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, and salt. Set aside until cool. When al- most congealed, add vegetables, cut- ting string beans and asparagus tips in three or four pieces; pour into either one large mold or individual molds. To serve, turn out on lettuce and garnish with mayonnaise, olives, and radishes. SAUCES FOR VEGETABLES French dressing and mayonnaise are as delightful sauces for hot vegetables as they are for cold. Young beets and greens, asparagus, spinach, string beans, Brussels sprouts, broiled tomatoes, and a number of others are excellent with French dressing poured over them. Mayonnaise is fine with hot arti- chokes and asparagus as well as with cold or with any other vege- table with which Hollandaise is used. Mustard mayonnaise (made by mixing prepared mustard and lemon juice, to taste, with mayon- naise) is splendid with either hot or cold artichokes. Melted butter, plain or with lemon juice added, is good with artichokes ; or it may be mixed half-and-half with chili sauce and heated together to make a deli- cious sauce. QUICK HOLLANDAISE 4 egg yolks YZ cupful of melted butter */4 teaspoonful of salt */s teaspoonful of paprika 24 cupful of boiling water 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice Stir egg yolks, adding melted but- ter gradually. Season with salt and paprika. Add boiling water, stirring constantly. Put into double boiler and cook just until thickened. Re- move from fire and add lemon juice. Serve hot or cold with hot arti- chokes or other vegetables, or with fish. (Serves six.) 36 Western Vegetables REAL HOLLANDAISE SAUCE EASY HOLLANDAISE SAUCE y* cupful of butter 2 egg yolks 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice y$ teaspoonful of salt and few grains of cayenne Divide the butter into three pieces. In a double boiler or sauce- pan place one piece of butter, the egg yolks and vinegar or lemon juice. Place over steaming (not quite boiling) water and stir con- stantly until the mixture thickens; add a second piece of butter, and as it melts, the third and last piece, stirring steadily the entire time. When butter is all melted, remove from heat, add seasonings, and beat until smooth and glossy.. This sauce should be served as soon as made as it cannot be re- heated without danger of separa- tion. If the butter does separate from the egg, add one or two table- spoonfuls of boiling water or cream, and stir vigorously until the mixture blends and is smooth. One hears how difficult it is to make a Hol- landaise sauce, but it is easy if care be taken to prevent separation dur- ing the first cooking before all the butter has been added. Do not allow the saucepan to stand in the boiling water, even when the sauce is fin- ished. This is one of the finest sauces made, and is a great addition to fresh asparagus or artichokes. MOCK HOLLANDAISE Into 1 cupful of medium-thick white sauce stir the beaten yolks of 2 eggs ; add, a piece at a time, l /4 to y 2 cube of butter, and stir until melted. Lastly, stir in 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, add a dash of cayenne, and serve at once. 2 tablespoonf uls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour l /2 teaspoonful of salt Yolks of 2 eggs Pepper 1 cupful of water 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice Melt butter and add flour. Bring to the boiling point, then add slowly to beaten egg yolks. Add salt and pepper and lemon juice, and cook, with constant stirring, over hot wa- ter until thickened. Serve immedi- ately. CHANTILLY SAUCE Fold into Hollandaise sauce, made as above, y 2 cupful of whipped cream. Very rich. BROILED MAYONNAISE 1 cupful of mayonnaise 1 egg white, beaten stiff Lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste Fold the beaten egg white into the mayonnaise, season well, pour into a shallow oven-proof casserole or pie plate, and brown lightly under the broiler. Do not attempt to bake this. Serve with asparagus, spinach, etc. Delicious and different. VICTOR SALAD DRESSING FOR VEGETABLES 2 pinches of salt 1 pinch of fresh ground black pepper 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil 1 teaspoonful of chopped chervil Mix and serve on salad greens or on vegetables, as cooked celery. Sauces for Vegetables 37 NEVER-FAIL HOLLANDAISE 24 cupful of water Juice of 1 lemon Pinch of salt 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Heat water, lemon juice, and salt in upper part of double boiler. Add the cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water, and cook, stirring, until smooth and thick (about 10 minutes altogether). Remove from stove and pour over unbeaten yolks of eggs; put back into double boiler, add butter, and reheat. This will not curdle. The West is still a land of gold. If you doubt it, look about you on your next trip to market. Golden oranges, grapefruit, lemons, apples, apricots, peaches, pears edible gold, nestled among the rich green of avocados, the crimson of cherries, the red- purple of grapes, the rich brown of nuts. Best of all, these are riches we can all share, whether we have much or little money to spend. Was ever mere eating such an adventure, such a thrill? 40 Western Fruits and Nuts WESTERN FRUITS Fresh or cooked, in salads, rel- ishes, and desserts, our Western fruits occupy a highly important place in our daily menus. APPLES Early apples are not so important here in the West as in some other parts of the country, probably ow- ing to the fact that peaches, grapes, and other luscious summer fruits compete too strongly for favor. Fall and winter apples, however, are tre- mendously important, from the fa- mous Wenatchee Valley of Wash- ington to southern California. Gra- venstein and Yellow Bellflower, for fall, and Yellow Newtown Pippin and White Winter Pearmain are perhaps the most common and most popular California apples, while De- licious, Jonathan, Northern Spy, and Grimes Golden are among the general favorites in the Northwest. OLD-FASHIONED APPLE SALAD Tart apples, diced Pineapple, cubed Oranges, cut small Celery, cubed Bananas, cubed Marshmallows, cut small Nuts Dates Boiled dressing, mixed with whipped cream Mix any desired quantity of the fruits listed; pineapple or orange will keep the apples from turning dark, even though the salad stands for some time. Mix lightly with boiled dressing made fluffy with whipped cream. BAKED APPLE DELIGHT In a baking dish put alternate layers of sliced Gravenstein or other firm apples (peeled or not, as you wish) and sugar. Cover and bake in a very slow oven (300) for 2 or 3 hours, depending on the quantity of apples. Serve cold with whipped cream. This is an extremely deli- cate dish, the texture being much like that of jelly. APPLE SAUCE CAKE (Grows better with age) 1 cupful of brown sugar Y-Z cupful of shortening 1 cupful of thick, unsweetened apple sauce legg 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon Y-2. teaspoonful of nutmeg 54 teaspoonful of cloves l /4 teaspoonful of allspice y 2 teaspoonful of salt \ l / 2 cupfuls of flour 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder y 2 teaspoonful of soda y 2 cupful of chopped walnuts Cream shortening and sugar. Add applesauce and beaten egg. Sift and measure flour; sift several times with other dry ingredients. Add nuts and combine with first mixture, mixing thoroughly. Bake in a loaf pan or in 2 layers in a moderate oven: loaf (350 to 375) 45 to 60 minutes; layer (375) for 20 min- utes. Half a cupful of raisins may be added if desired. Serve plain or with caramel or cream cheese icing. MINT APPLES (For leg of lamb) Small Jonathan apples, peeled (Pippins or Roman Beauties can also be used) 1 cupful of sugar y 2 cupful of water As soon as sugar and water boils, drop in apples. Cover with syrup and turn apples. Keep covered and cook gently. Add 1 drop of green coloring and mint flavoring. Cook Apples 41 until apples are done (don't let them get too soft) . They will have a won- derful glazed appearance and make a lovely garnish around a leg of lamb. This takes the place of mint sauce. APPLE CARAMEL PUDDING Fill a shallow baking dish with 5 or 6 thinly sliced raw apples. Pour over all the following : YI cupful of water Y-2. teaspoonful of cinnamon Mix together as for pastry: 1 cupful of brown sugar y* cupful of flour Y-2 cupful of butter % teaspoonful of salt 1 cupful of grape nuts (may be omitted) Cover apples with mixture. Bake uncovered at 375 degrees for one hour. Serve hot with cream. GRAHAM-APPLE PIE 2 cupfuls of finely ground or rolled graham cracker crumbs y 2 cupful of softened butter 2 cupfuls of thick, sweetened apple sauce Y^ teaspoonful of cloves 1 cupful of cream, whipped 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar Rub the softened but not melted butter with the cracker crumbs to mix thoroughly. Line a nine-inch pie plate with mixture by packing in very firmly with ringer tips. Bake in moderate oven (350) for 15 minutes. When thoroughly cold, fill shell with the apple sauce seasoned with cloves and cover with sweet- ened whipped cream. Serve at once. Care should be taken in cutting the tart, and a wide spatula or server should be used, because the crust is very tender. APPLE RELISH To one package of lemon-flavored gelatine, prepared according to the directions on the package, add 1 cupful of spiced, tart applesauce. When it hardens, serve it as a rel- ish with roast pork or broiled pork chops. It is also a delicious salad, topped with a cream dressing, for an informal bridge luncheon. GREEN APPLE PIE Plain pastry (for a two-crust pie) 2 cupfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 /s cupful of shortening 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls of ice water Mix and sift dry ingredients ; add shortening, cutting it in with a pas- try flaker or two silver knives, leav- ing shortening in pieces the size of an almond.. Add water, a table- spoonful at a time, mixing with a spatula, being careful not to add too much water, as that will toughen the pastry. It is best to chill pastry dough for an hour before rolling, and handle as little as possible. Roll out to 1/16 inch in thickness. Fit in bottom crust, let it slip into posi- tion, and do not stretch; fill with: 5 or 6 tart apples l l / 2 cupfuls of sugar y? teaspoonful of cinnamon 3 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Dice apples ; mix well together with sugar, cinnamon, and flour, then add vanilla and pour into the pie pan. Dot with butter, and put on the top crust, which has been well slit, then brush with cream, and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake in a hot oven (450) for 10 minutes, then reduce heat to mod- erate (350) and bake for 45 min- utes. Serve warm, with cheese. 42 Western Fruits and Nuts APPLE HORSERADISH SAUCE WESTERN APPLE DUMPLINGS y^ pint of cream, whipped 1 cupful of apple sauce 1 small jar of horseradish Combine, and serve at once. De- licious with ham. APPLE COFFEE CAKE 2 cupf uls of flour YI teaspoonful of salt 2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder 24 cupful of sugar 1 egg 3 tablespoonfuls of salad oil 2 /3 cupful of milk 3 or 4 apples 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter y* teaspoonful of cinnamon Sift the flour, measure 2 cupfuls, then add salt, baking powder, and 54 cupful of sugar and sift again. Beat the egg, add the salad oil and beat until blended, and add the milk, then mix together the dry and the liquid mixtures. Spread the batter in two greased layer-cake pans or one larger shallow pan. Pare and core apples and cut lengthwise into rather thick slices, then cover the batter with these slices, pressing the sharp edges deeply into the batter. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of lemon juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter over surface of each of the two cakes, then cover each with y$ cupful of sugar mixed with ^ tea- spoonful of cinnamon. Place in a hot oven (400) and bake until cakes begin to brown at edges (15 to 20 minutes), then reduce heat to moderate (350) and bake until apples in center of cake are soft when pierced with a sharp-pointed knife, about 20 to 30 minutes longer. Serve as a breakfast coffee cake, an afternoon tea cake, or as a dessert with whipped cream. To be truthful, the recipe for these dumplings came from Ken- tucky, but it has been used here in Sunset Land, and made with West- ern apples, long enough to become Western itself ! I assure you these dumplings are the way to any man's heart but don't give them to him after too hearty a dinner. Here are the necessary ingredients. For the filling: 6 cooking apples Sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg For the syrup : 3 cupfuls of sugar Y^ cupful ( l / 2 cube) of butter % teaspoonful each of cinnamon and nutmeg 2 cupfuls of water For the pastry : 2 cupfuls of flour 2y 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder 1 teaspoonful of salt 24 cupful of shortening Milk to make a soft dough Put the ingredients for the syrup together first, and let them boil down rather thick while paring and coring the apples and cutting them in eighths and preparing the pastry. For the pastry, sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together, and cut or rub in the shortening as for bis- cuits ; add just enough milk to make a soft dough. Roll out medium thin on a lightly floured board and cut into 5-inch squares. In the center of each square arrange 5 or 6 pieces of apple, sprinkle generously with sug- ar, add a dash of cinnamon and nutmeg and a dot of butter, and fold the corners over so that all the apple is covered. Place these as made into a large, flat pudding pan which has been buttered. When all the dum- plings are arranged, pour the heavy syrup over them and bake until slightly browned in a moderate oven Apricots 43 (375) about 30 minutes. When this stage is reached, pour a table- spoonful of undiluted evaporated milk over each dumpling and return to the oven until flaky on top. Serve hot or cold as desired (we like them hot) with thin cream, whipped cream, or a caramel sauce as pre- ferred or convenient, or with no sauce at all. You will delight in this old-fashioned recipe. HAM-APPLE PIE 3 slices of ham, cut from center 4 or 5 tart apples Brown sugar Half a lemon Have the ham sliced about j4-inch thick. Cut into convenient pieces for serving. Peel and slice the ap- ples. Place a layer of ham in bottom of a baking dish, cover with sliced apples, and sprinkle with brown sugar about 1 teaspoon ful to each layer, though the amount must be governed by the tartness of the ap- ples. Repeat the layers until the dish is full, having apples on top. Squeeze over the dish the juice of half a lemon, and bake in a moder- ately hot oven (375) for 45 min- utes, having the dish covered until the apples begin to cook; then re- move the cover and brown the ap- ples, allowing the juice to cook down until it is thick. Serves six to eight. To serve a smaller number of persons, use an oven-glass pie plate and smaller quantities of ham and apples. If the apple slices on top are arranged to overlap neatly in concentric rings, a very attractive dish for guests is prepared. EXTRA-SPECIAL APPLE SAUCE Pare and quarter Gravenstein ap- ples, remove cores, and cut in fairly thick slices. Add just a little water, and cook, covered, until the apple slices are almost tender. Remove cover, add sugar to suit taste, and sprinkle generously with ground cinnamon. Cook just long enough for the syrup to go through the apples, cool slightly, and serve with pork chops, ham, or any other meat. One apple will serve two persons. APRICOTS The Pacific slope has a world monopoly on commercial apricot- culture. California leads in produc- tion (furnishing from 90 to 95 per cent of the total crop), but Arizona, eastern Washington and Oregon, Idaho, and Utah are also growing this fruit. A relatively small proportion of the fruit is used fresh. Canning and drying take the great bulk of the crop, with drying much more im- portant than canning. Most of the varieties grown for the market are freestones, and can accordingly be peeled by dipping in boiling water to loosen the skins. For most purposes, however, it is not necessary to peel the apricot, as the skin is tender and thin. The fragrant, fresh fruit, halved or diced, is a welcome addition to cottage cheese salads, fruit salads, and fruit mixtures generally. Spe- cial uses for dried apricots will be found in the section devoted to dried fruits (see pages 105-107). Also see chapter on canning, preserving, and pickling. Apricots, mashed and sweetened, either cooked or raw, are a splendid fruit to use in Bavarian Cream and similar desserts, or as a sauce for ice cream. Apricot and pineapple are a favorite combination for vari- ous purposes, from Upside-Down Cake to Pinecot Jam. Don't be afraid to try using this delicious fruit in different and original ways.. 44 Western Fruits and Nuts SACRAMENTO SUNSHINE 1 cupful of ripe apricot jam % teaspoonful of salt 1 cupful of cream, whipped Beat jam until soft and smooth, add salt, and fold into the whipped cream. Put into tray of mechanical refrigerator and freeze 4 hours or longer; or pour into a mold, cover with waxed paper, press cover down tightly over paper, and pack in equal parts of ice and salt for 4 hours or more. This makes I 1 /* pints of mousse. SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER SALAD No. 1 can of crushed pineapple 1 package of lime or lemon gela- tine 2 cupfuls of liquid (pineapple juice and water) Fresh apricots peeled and halved Chopped celery 1 pound of cottage cheese Mayonnaise, cream, paprika Dissolve the gelatine in 1 cupful of boiling water, and add juice from pineapple with enough water to fill cup. When cool add crushed pine- apple. Line bottom of ring mold with peeled, halved apricots, then a layer of chopped celery, and enough gelatine mixture to cover ; continue with layers of apricots, celery, and gelatine until mold is full. Chill, and when firm, turn out on a bed of lettuce and fill center with cottage cheese. Top with a generous spoon- ful of mayonnaise thinned with cream and a dash of paprika. APRICOT MERINGUE PIE Drain the juice from one No. 2 can of apricots into a small sauce- pan, add 1 cupful of sugar (more or less according to desired sweet- ness, of course), and heat together. Stir 3 level tablespoonfuls of corn- starch with a small quantity of the syrup and when the juice in the saucepan is hot add this to it, stirring until thick and clear. Add 1 tea- spoonful of lemon juice, remove from the fire and let cool. Carefully arrange the apricot halves in a baked pie shell, and pour the cooled fruit syrup over them. Lightly add a delicate meringue made by beating 3 egg whites stiff, and beating in 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar and a dash of lemon flavoring. Brown very slowly in the oven (at 300). This is delicious and tempting. APRICOT DAINTY (Serves four persons) 2 cupfuls of mashed cooked apri- cots (fresh, canned, or dried) 1 cupful of diced marshmallows Y^ teaspoonful of almond flavoring YZ cupful of shredded cocoanut or blanched almonds After the apricots have been cooked until they are tender, cool them slightly. Add the flavoring and the diced marshmallows, and when they melt, fold the mixture until the texture is uniform. Serve in sherbet glasses, chilled, and gar- nish with the nuts or cocoanut. Little crisp wafers should accom- pany this. APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM 1 package of lemon flavored gela- tine 1 cupful of boiling water 1 cupful of apricot pulp, fresh or canned 1 cupful of apricot juice 24 cupful of whipping cream Dissolve the gelatine in the boil- ing water. Add the fruit juice, and let stand until it begins to thicken. Beat with a rotary egg beater until light and fluffy, then fold in the fruit pulp and whipped cream. Chill in molds, then unmold and serve with apricot sauce. Avocados 45 APRICOT SAUCE 1 cupful of apricot syrup (from canned fruit) 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice 1 teaspoonful of butter Mix the sugar and cornstarch, add the fruit juice, and boil until clear, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice and butter. Serve cold with cold desserts, or hot with baked or steamed puddings. RICE A LA APRICOTS Cook 1 cupful of washed rice in 1 quart of milk, using the double boiler. When tender, add ^ tea- spoonful of salt and 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter. Butter a baking dish and in it spread alternate layers of rice and hot stewed apricots. Bake in a slow oven (350) about 20 minutes, and serve warm with cream and sugar. Other fruits may be used in place of the apricots if de- sired. Plums, apples, peaches and other kinds of dried or fresh fruit will give very good results also. AVOCADOS One of the most interesting of Western tree fruits is the avocado, or alligator pear as it used to be called. This tropical fruit is like nothing else that I know of. Pear- shaped to rounded oval in form, the tough green to purplish black skin encases rich, soft flesh, with a single