SB 413 .S9 K4 1917 ct SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE BURPEE’S FIERY CROSS SWEET PEA PUBLISHED IN 1917 BY W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. SEED GROWERS PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA “AINE jo eunf Buunp os 0} saya j© speipany Butpeary YOM 1y8is e—‘seay yamMG Je2ueds u) sal9D paipuny auo uDY} asou BARY aM Aare A DoduIO] joyyneeq stqy uy “VINYOSITVS ‘SOdWOT ‘WuVd AIVAVYOTI S.aadUNng SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE BY GeW. KERR COUNTESS SPENCER SWEET PEA. Grown by JAMES W. NaIRN, Truro, Nova Scotia, who sends the charming photograph from which this engraving has been reproduced. BavEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE WITH A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION OF ALL KNOWN VARIETIES, IN- CLUDING NOVELTIES FOR 1917 By G)’W. KERR PUBLISHED IN IQI7 BY WATEEE. BURREEE & CO. SEED GROWERS, PHILADELPHIA CoPYRIGHT, 1910, 1914, 1916, AND 1917, BY W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co. PHILADELPHIA, PA. All rights reserved JAN 27 1917 ©ciA455335 PREFACE WE were well pleased with the reception accorded our re- vised edition of Sweet Peas Up-To-Date when published in 1910, but since the list of varieties contained therein was compiled so great has been the interest of hybridizers and specialists in this beautiful flower, that new varieties have been offered the public in bewildering numbers, with the result that to keep our book really “‘up-to-date”’ we feel that it is necessary to publish this new edition. Sweet Peas are a great specialty with us, neither time nor money being spared in our endeavors to test and try out all novelties as they are offered by European and other Sweet Pea specialists. Our Sweet Pea trials at Fordhook Farms in 1913 numbered 1133, many of these being duplicated on Burpee’s Floradale Farm in California. We are thus enabled to find out for our- selves just which varieties are worthy of perpetuating and offering to our customers and friends. We have—at Fordhook—for the past eight years been hybridizing the original winter-flowering varieties, viz.: Burpee’s Earliest of All (Christmas Pink), Burpee’s Earliest Sunbeams, Burpee’s Earliest White, Burpee’s Re-selected Earliest of All, and Yarrawa, with the finest varieties of Spencers, with a view to evolving a new race of early or winter-flowering Spencers, and we are now able to say that we have accomplished this even beyond our most sanguine expectations, as we have now winter- flowering Spencers in many exquisite colors, a number of which we are offering this season; others will be intro- duced as we work up sufficient “trued’’ stocks. We anticipate that in the near future we will have this in- valuable type to offer in all the colors now found in the summer-flowering varieties. W. ATLEE BurRPEE & Co. Fordhook Farms, December 11, 1916. INTRODUCTION “THE Sweet Pea has a keel that was meant to seek all shores; it has wings that were meant to fly across all continents; it has a standard which is friendly to all nations; and it has a fragrance like the universal Gos- pel: yea, a sweet prophecy of welcome everywhere that has been abundantly fulfilled.” So said the Rev. W. T. Hutcuins, the well-known Sweet Pea enthusiast, when attending the Sweet Pea Bi-centenary Celebration in London in 1900; and his words sound almost like a prophecy—a prophecy that has indeed been abundantly fulfilled. As far as we can learn the Sweet Pea is a native of Sicily, and we read that in 1699 FRANCcISCUS CUPANI, an Italian monk, sent seeds to England, and so was begun the culture of Sweet Peas. Although there were several distinct colors in cul- tivation, no great advancement was made until the late HENRY EckrForp, of Wem, Shropshire, England, in 1870 started his great life work on Sweet Peas. Since then the development of this lovely and fragrant flower has been one of the floral wonders of the age. The late THomaAs Laxton, of Bedford, England, also worked on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, starting in 1877. His Invincible Carmine was certificated in 1883, being the first recorded result of cross-fertilization, and since then many florists have assisted in carrying on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, America being to the front as usual, many charming and refined va- rieties being distributed by W. ATLEE BurPEE & Co. and other American seedsmen, and quite three-fourths 6 SWEEF; PEAS UP) TO) DATE of the Sweet Pea seed used each year all over the world is grown in this country. Had any one sixteen years ago said that the Sweet Pea would become within the next few years the most popular flower of the day, he would have been laughed at, and yet this has now become an accomplished fact. I can well remember when the first “Sweet Pea Show” in England was planned (that was in 1900). Although | was a great admirer of the Sweet Pea and had seen and grown all the new varieties as they were introduced, I simply laughed at the idea of holding a show of Sweet Peas alone— and I was only a unit among the many scoffers at the project. But, thanks to those at the helm, the first show at the Crystal Palace, London, was held, and turned out to be such a success that since that year the Sweet Pea Society has held its annual Show, and now the National Sweet Pea Society is among the most flourishing of the “one flower” societies; and it is impossible to describe to those who have not at- tended any of their exhibitions the enthusiasm which prevails among the exhibitors, the immensity of the Show and the exquisite exhibits from the trade growers: flowers of the largest size with stems eighteen inches to two feet long, the long lines of decorated tables, and, last but not least, the novelties. Of course, the novel- ties are not all gems of the first water, but no Show passes without some great improvement in color or form appearing. The Aquarium Show of 1901 will long be remembered, as it was there that Silas Cole, of Althorp Gardens, Northampton, first exhibited his glorious “Countess Spencer,’’ which was three years later introduced by the late Mr. RopERT SYDENHAM, of Birmingham. The “Countess Spencer’? was such i: SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE an improvement in size and of a form so distinctly new, the immense standard and wings being beautifully frilled and waved, that it created a perfect sensation at the Show, but since the advent of its introduction in 1904 the new waved or orchid-flowered varieties have been added to considerably, these being either sports from the popular Countess Spencer, or the results of the careful hybridist. The first “Spencer”? sports to appear were John Ingman and Helen Lewis, followed by Mrs. Charles Foster and Mrs. Charles Mander. Since then many new colors have been evolved, a list of which is given on pages 45 to 72. About the time that Mr. Cole brought out Countess Spencer the same variety was found as a sport in that fine old grandiflora variety, Prima Donna, by Mr. Viner, of Frome, Somerset, and W. J]. UNwin, of Histon, Cam- bridge, also found a sport in Prima Donna, and this he called Gladys Unwin. It is also of the wavy type and of much the same shade of pink as Countess Spencer, but the flowers do not come quite so large. I must also chronicle the advent of the Early or Winter-flowering Spencer Sweet Pea. The American varieties of this new type are all the result of careful crosses, but some four or five years ago the great Aus- tralian variety, Yarrawa, appeared in that country as a direct mutation or sport from a summer flowering Spen- cer. This is a most valuable race, especially for Winter forcing under glass, though it is also useful for winter and spring flowering in the open in all frostless countries, and at least a few of them should be included in all Sweet Pea collections, even in our Northern States, to prolong the flowering season. 8 SWere l> PEAS UP TO DATE The merest novice in gardening realizes that the Sweet Pea is the most popular annual now cultivated, and this is not to be wondered at when we consider all its qualities: first, there is the primary question of cost, when for a few cents we can have a row right around our garden or clumps among our shrubs—and what other flower will give us such glorious results so cheaply? Then, as to cultivation. The Sweet Pea will succeed in practically any good garden soil, though extra cultivation will well repay the grower. And, again, what flower gives us such a multitude of ex- quisite colors and shades of colors combined with such delicate and thrilling fragrance as our “Queen of All Annuals’’—the regal Sweet Pea? And yet another great quality in its favor is that the more flowers you cut from the vines, the longer and more continuously will the plants continue to bloom. In fact, by not allow- ing any seed pods to set, followed up with high-class cultivation, Sweet Peas will continue to flower for quite three months, and in some locations even longer. I would draw the attention of all Sweet Pea lovers to the claims of the American Sweet Pea Society, which was organized July 7, 1900. This society has held a most successful exhibition and convention each year since its organization and a number of interesting and instructive bulletins have been issued to all its members. Full information regarding the society may be had from W. Atlee Burpee & Company. To those who are unacquainted with the different varieties | would specially recommend the collections put up by W. ATLEE Burpee & Co., and offered at very moderate prices. For instance you can have a large 9 SWEET PEAS “UP: tO. DATE packet each of six first-class sorts for 25 cents,—thirteen varieties for 50 cents. While the dollar-box collection . of finest Spencer varieties is great value. Full partic- ulars of the above will be found in the current year’s “Burpee’s Annual,” copy of which will gladly. be sent on application. G. W. Kerr. Fordhook Farms, November 22, 1917. 10 SOIL AND PREPARATION Any ordinary garden soil will suit Sweet Peas, pro- vided the following points are observed: First. The ground should be drained or the soil be of such a nature that in a season of excessive rains the water will not lie and so cause the roots to rot, or start mildew among the plants. Seconp. The seeds should be sown in such a position that no excessive shade shall interfere with the sturdy growth of the vines, as too much shade encourages a spindly and weak vine, with few, if any, flowers. You should choose, therefore, a spot in your garden right in the open, where your plants may have all the available light and air, though a little shade from the scorching mid-day suns of June and July will be found most beneficial. Soils cultivated and prepared as for your vegetable plot will give fair results, but for this, the Queen of all our annual plants, a little extra care and selection of soil will be well repaid by the additional size of _ flower, longer stems, better color, and prolonged period of blooming. Whatever may be the composition of your soil, a start should be made in the fall of the year by trench- ing it to a depth of from two to three feet. Should the subsoil be poor, it would be absurd to bring it to the surface, but it should be broken up, turned over, and mixed with any old garden refuse or stable litter. Thoroughly mix with the second spit a liberal quantity » of half decayed stable or cow manure—the latter for I] SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE preference if the soil is light—adding a good dressing of bone meal as the work proceeds. - The top spit should be filled in as rough as possible (at the same time mix- ing with the soil thoroughly rotted manure) and left so all winter, that the frost, snow, and rain may have a better chance of exerting their mellowing influences upon the soil. Should the under spits be very light, 1 would recommend that it should be taken out of the trench and replaced with soil of heavier substance. If the land is very heavy, with a clay subsoil, long stable litter and rough material from the garden rub- bish heap should be incorporated with the subsoil which is broken up, as this will help materially to drain and sweeten the trench, and farm-yard manure, road sweep- ings, and wood ashes will help to lighten the top spits, adding bone meal as recommended above. While on the subject of trenching, we ought to ex- plain that where the Sweet Peas are to be planted in rows the trench should be taken out at least two feet wide and the rows should be five feet apart. As soon as the frost is out of the ground in early spring and the soil is in a nice, dry condition, the rows should have a fairly heavy coating of superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate), which can be forked or raked into the soil and all made ready for planting. Care should be taken that the soil is not too loose, as in this condition it would be apt to dry up quickly during the summer; therefore, if it is loose and open, get it con- solidated by forking and treading, but do not attempt to work the trench until it is quite dry. Soils deficient in lime will be greatly benefited by a good dusting of fresh lime put on in the early spring, using it as soon as slaked. On ground that has been I2 SOWING AND PLANTING heavily manured for some years this application will be found most beneficial, as it combines with the organic matter contained therein, thereby setting free much plant food that was not previously available to the crops. Where it has been found impossible to trench the ground in the fall, this operation should be commenced as early as possible in the spring, but in this case only old, well-decomposed manure should be utilized, using bone meal and superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate) as recommended above. SOWING AND PLANTING To those who want the very best results we say sow your Sweet Pea seeds in pots. This should be done in January or February, according to location, using pots of three and one-half or four inches diameter. A suitable compost for this consists of turfy loam, leaf soil, and a little sand, all thoroughly mixed. A little of the roughest of the turf should be placed on top of the crocks to insure perfect drainage, afterwards filling the pot to within an inch and a half of the top. Then put in an inch layer of sharp sand into which the seed should be sunk half an inch, the use of the sand being to prevent the seed rotting ere germinating, as many seed so often do when sown in heavier soil. Four seeds will be quite sufficient for each pot, making all firm and labeling each variety as it is sown. The pots should then be placed in a frame or cool greenhouse as near the light as possible, so that the growth will be kept sturdy and dwarf. The frame or greenhouse bench on which the pots are to stand should be thoroughly cleaned and 2 13 SWEETM“PEAS CUP FO (DATE afterwards given a thorough dusting of soot or lime to kill all insects, or keep them at bay. When the young vines are two or three inches tall, insert a few twigs in the pots to keep them in an upright position. After the first thorough soaking to settle soil and seeds, great care should be taken not to overdo the subsequent waterings, as in the event of sharp frosts, should the Peas be in an unheated structure, there is always the danger of the young plants getting frosted. In severe weather the careful grower will always see that the frame is covered and protected from night frosts. When the young plants are well through the soil, air should be given on all favorable occasions, and if the plants have been started in heat they should be now removed to a coid frame. As spring advances the sashes should be entirely removed during the brightest part of the day, keeping them off night and day as “planting out time” approaches. According to locality and weather conditions prevailing at the time, the young plants should be put out from early March to early May. One pot will be found sufficient to form a good clump, and some growers favor this method of growing Sweet Peas—the ground for the clump having been prepared by taking out the soil to a depth of about three feet by three feet and preparing it as before ex- plained for the. row system. When planting in rows each potful should be planted about eighteen inches apart in the row. Place the entire ball of soil with plants and twigs—taking care to keep all intact with the exception of loosening the eee 14 SOWING OUT OF DOORS mass of roots at the base—in the hole previously pre- pared for its reception. If the plants are well watered the day before planting, the ball of soil will be more likely to remain entire when knocked out of the pot. Should the weather be very dry at the time of planting, it may be found advisable to give the newly trans- planted vines a thorough watering, and this will like- wise help to settle the soil about the roots. ; A good ring of soot (which should be collected dur- ing the season from the stove-pipe) put on the soil round the plants will now be of the greatest possible benefit in warding off insects, and even a slight dusting of the same material over the young vines has been used also to advantage. SOWING OUT OF DOORS Those who have not the conveniences—or, perchance, think it too much trouble—for the pot method of Sweet Pea culture should sow the seeds as early in the Spring as soil and weather conditions will allow. Whether the ground has been prepared as advised in a previous chapter or simply dug over one spit deep, the procedure is the same. A small trench or furrow about four inches deep should be taken out and the seed sown evenly, using about one ounce of seed to a fifteen-foot row,—covering with two inches of soil. After covering make the sur- face soil fairly firm and finish all by putting a. good dusting of soot along the row, as this will keep away birds and insects. When the seedlings are about two inches high, thin out the young plants, leaving one to every six inches, as this will be found quite sufficient to give you a good, 15 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE thrifty row, allowing the air and light to circulate freely among the growing vines, giving more room to the gross feeding and deep searching roots, the natural results being larger flowers, longer stems, better color, and more flowers. As the young vines grow, the soil should be hoed up to them on either side, thus strength- ening the plants and keeping them in an upright posi- tion, while the slight trench thus made on either side of the row is of great benefit when watering the plants dur- ing a dry spell, or, on the other hand, it acts as a natural drain in carrying off the superfluous moisture during a very wet period. The rows should be staked’ now, as it is of great importance that the young vines be’ sup- ported from their earliest stage, but this will be dealt with in a subsequent paragraph. FALL SOWING ‘While we are on the subject of sowing, it would be in- complete were we not to mention Fall sowing. For early bloom Fall or Autumn sowing is to be recom- mended if your location is suitable. This method is largely carried out in many parts of England with best results. In the Southern States this operation may be done towards the end of September and during October, while for this locality (Philadelphia) we have proved that November and early December sowings give the most satisfactory results. Our experiments at FORDHOOK FARMs have shown that Sweet Peas sown in early October made growth about three inches tall before severe weather set in, and that. subsequently the plants were frozen out, while seed sown in November and early December just started to germinate before frost, and as there were no top growths to freeze, with- 16 FALL SOWING stood the Winter and started away strongly with the first mild weather in March, the earlier varieties show- ing flower on May 15th, while the ordinary varieties of grandiflora and Spencer types were in full bloom early in June. These experiments in Fall sowing seem to show us that we ought to aim at sowing the seed at as late a date as possible, that the seed may just germinate previous to frost, thereafter lying dormant all Winter and so be ready to take advantage of the earliest mild days of Spring, long before we could get on the ground to make early plantings. Give the rows a mulch of strawy litter or hay as soon as the ground freezes hard, removing it early in March. The advantages of Fall sowings are early flowering and, on account of slower top growth in the early stages, a much stronger root growth which will carry the plants safely through periods of drought and so secure an ex- tended flowering season. __ Another, and perhaps the best, method for fall sow- ing in this locality, or in fact any section where periods of severe frost may be expected during the winter months, is to use what I call the Sweet Pea frame. Boards six to nine inches wide are placed on edge lengthways, eight or nine inches apart along either side of the row of Sweet Peas, holding them together with small braces of wood and make ends tight with a piece of board to fit the opening, as shown in the accompany- ingillustration. Glass is laid along the top of the frame, and may be fastened with string to hold it in position, or special slots made in the boards into which the glass fits. When using this frame the seed should be sown about 17 SWEET “PEAS “UP TO: ‘DATE When the soil freezes solidly cover the rows with coarse manure or litter as shown in the above photograph taken at FORDHOOK FARMs late in December. Another method of protecting fall sown Sweet Peas and one which will give the planter earlier flowers. 18 STAKING AND TRELLISING six weeks before severe freezing weather may be ex- pected. In this section where this method is used the correct date would be the middle of October. Do not place the glass over the frame until severe weather sets in or during periods of heavy rains. Pre- vious to frost the seeds will have germinated and the seedlings be well above the ground, and they should have all the air possible to harden and strengthen their growth. Should the weather be extremely severe it may be well to cover the frame with burlap or litter, but if there should have been a heavy fall of snow the snow covering will be ample protection. Remove the glass during the first mild days of Spring, and in the course of a week or two the frame also, though the boards will be a protection against cold winds. The frame may then be used to cover early sowings of lettuce, beans, etc. STAKING AND TRELLISING A great diversity of opinion prevails over the ques- tion of the most suitable material for staking Sweet Pea vines. According to the NATIONAL SWEET PEA ANNUAL FOR 1907, the opinions of fifty-two experts were asked, forty-seven of the number voting for sticks, most of them regarding hazel brush as being the best. My own opinion on the matter is strongly in favor of good twiggy boughs cut in the late winter or early spring, that they may be on the green side and so tough enough to last the season. If boughs are used, they ought to be inserted at least one foot-in the soil with the tops inclining, if anything, a little outwards: 7. e., the 19 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE tops of the boughs should not meet, as it is at this part that so much space is wanted when the Peas are in full growth, therefore by inclining your sticks outwards it leaves room for all top growth and tends to keep your vines in an upright position. Should your sticks not be twiggy at the bottom, it will be found desirable to insert a few short boughs between the taller sticks wherever necessary. Now although we might all wish to stake our Sweet Peas with boughs, in the majority of cases this is an impossibility through our inability to procure them: therefore, the question of the next best substitute arises, and this is to be found in wire netting of four- or six-inch mesh. The initial cost of this material 1s certainly a drawback where a large area of Sweet Peas is grown, but it will be found the cheapest in the long run, lasting as it does for many years. Netting four to six feet wide will be found sufficient for this locality, but in cooler sections where the Sweet Pea vines flourish as they do in our extreme Northern States, Canada, and England, this width may have to be doubled. Stakes to support the wire netting will have to be used, driving these twelve or eighteen inches into the ground. Some growers use only one row of wire netting, but we believe in the double row, say twelve inches apart. Another method is the use of soft, light jute twine. In this case stout stakes are used, driving one into the ground every five feet down the rows on either side of the Peas, then running the twine from stake to stake, commencing a few inches from the ground with six inches between each length. This will be found a most economical method of staking your Peas, though not so satisfactory as boughs or wire netting. 20 STAKING AND TRELLISING The Rev. W. T. Hutchins’ advice on staking, as given in one of our former publications, is also of in- terest on this important point in Sweet Pea culture, and we append the following extracts: “There are all degrees of success in growing Sweet Peas, and the answer to the question of what kind of support to give them depends largely on how thrifty your vines are. I expect my own vines to make a strong growth, at least six feet high, and, besides the matter of height, it is quite evident that such a weight of vines when wet, and when the strain of a gust of wind comes broadside on them, will require a very strong support. If you care for only moderate success, smaller bushes or four-foot poultry wire may be suf- ficient. If your soil has neither depth nor riches and you provide a six-foot hedge of birch, your bushes will be more conspicuous than your Sweet Peas. Or, if you neglect your vines and let them go to seed, they will dry up when two-thirds grown. Or, if you plant them too thickly, they will make a spindling and shorter growth. You are the one to decide whether you want a four-foot or a six-foot support. “Then, if you ask what to make the support of, judging from most people, you will use that which comes most convenient. “Here are the points to be considered in a support for Sweet Peas. Grow them at their best, and provide for both height and strength, then allow for their loose branching habit, and give them width enough to ramble. I use birches entirely. They are brought to me in twelve or fourteen foot lengths, just as cut from the patch, and from each | get one good stout one seven feet high, and the lighter top is used to fill in. 21 SWEET | PEAS-UP 10 DAEE “They are less unsightly if the tops are clipped to an even six-foot level and the sides are trimmed suf- ficiently to present a neat view from the end. These twiggy birches are a more natural support, and in the scorching sun do not heat as wire will. Of course, birches last but one year, and should be procured early in the spring, before their leaves start. Make ashes of them in the fall. “There is no limit to the style of trellis that can be made, and they should be so made as to take apart easily for storing away in the winter. By painting the ground end of the posts or uprights with asphaltum they will last longer. The printed designs are mere suggestions of what can be made cheaply (see page 96). “Keep your vines green and growing as long as you can. Good rich ground and keeping the pods off will do this.” CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING The liberal use of the hoe between the rows and plants will be found of great service in conserving moisture and, of course, at the same time keeping down the weeds. Should the weather set in very dry and hot, a liberal mulching of manure or grass should be given, extending quite twelve inches on either side of the plants, and a thorough watering two or three times a week will keep your seedlings on the move. No liquid manure should be applied, however, until the first blos- soms appear, and then only sparingly—or rather in a weak state—at first, alternating the waterings with clear water. As the plants come into full flower the manure may be made much stronger. 22 CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING Now, as to the kind of manure to apply. We know that growers of experience have their own pet manures and mixtures, but the following may all be relied upon. One of the least expensive, and one which at the same time almost serves a double purpose by both feeding the plant and acting as an insecticide, is soot. Place about a peck of soot in a bag and let it dissolve for a few hours in an old tub or barrel filled with water. Guano may be used in the proportion of one pound to twenty gallons of water; or sulphate of potash, one ounce to one gallon of water. Farmyard liquid manure, used about the color of weak tea, is also of service; acid phosphate or superphosphate of lime, used as a liquid, dissolving at the rate of half an ounce to one gallon of water. Also sulphate of potash, used in con- junction and at the same rate, will help the plants con- siderably. The majority of growers consider the use of nitrate of soda dangerous to the well-being of Sweet Peas, though | believe there are times when it may be used to advantage; for instance, if the vines have a stunted appearance, and instead of making fresh growth, are atastand. Insuchacase | advocate using nitrate at the rate of quarter of an ounce to one gallon of water. When using liquid manure, it is well to let it follow a thorough soaking with clear water, that the fertilizing material may penetrate to the lowest roots, and if possible all watering should be done after the sun has gone down, as this will to a great extent save the crack- ing of the soil and allow the plants to get the full benefit of the moisture. Spraying the vines overhead in the cool of the evening will be found to benefit the plants during a hot, dry spell. 23 SWEEWV, PEAS: UPATO DATE BUDS DROPPING Where the plants have been well cultivated and heav- ily manured and the vines consequently are growing vigorously, it sometimes happens that a large propor- tion of the first buds drop from the flower stem before opening. A sudden change in the weather will often bring on a bad attack of bud dropping. This may be due to heavy rains following a dry spell, or low night temperature, which naturally causes a check to the sap flow. But the grower need not be alarmed at this, as the vines will soon assume their natural mode of procedure, all buds subsequently opening and remain- ing on the stem as they should do. Bud dropping is most frequently met with in a wet season. WINTER FLOWERING SWEET, PEAS, UNDER GEASS Not so many years ago the winter flowering Sweet Pea was more or less of a side line or catch crop with the florist—a sort of “fill in’? when other crops had failed or stocks run short, but this can not be said of it today. It is now a “regular” in all markets, and its place would be hard to fill. To grow successfully, a heated greenhouse is indis- pensable, and the seeds may be sown on raised benches, in pots, or the solid bed or border. The date of sowing will depend on when the Sweet Peas are wanted to bloom. The forcing of winter flowering varieties takes from two and one-half to three months from the date of planting until blooming, if started about the middle of August. Later sowings take rather longer; there- 24 WINTER FLOWERING SWEET PEAS UNDER GLASS fore, if required for spring cutting, seed should be sown early in November. The seed may be sown in the row or started in small pots or flats (many growers prefer. flats). Best results are obtained when grown in solid beds, though I have seen magnificent Peas cut from plants on raised benches. They come into flower earlier when grown on raised benches, but the quality of bloom is not so fine, nor is the flowering season so prolonged as when grown in solid beds. With the advent of the new winter flowering Spen- cer type, there is no doubt whatever that the Sweet Pea will steadily increase in popularity and good prices will always be realized for first class flowers. As in all other lines, quality counts, therefore, al- though it is an easy crop to grow, a little extra care in soil preparation, attention to ventilation, watering, etc., may make all the difference between failure and success, simply paying for one’s labor or making a substantial profit. Therefore it behooves the grower to start in good time his preparation for this crop. Plants that will continue blooming for several months, and produce highest quality flowers, can -be successfully grown only in solid beds, and there must be sufficient head room in the house. In the ideal Sweet Pea house the eaves will be at least eight feet high. If the existing soil in the beds is in good heart, it may be necessary further to enrich with farmyard manure, but at the same time it should be thoroughly turned over at the least two feet deep. Perfect drainage is essential, otherwise the plants may collapse entirely when in full growth, when water is being applied freely in the spring, due to root rot. Therefore, according to the composi- 25 SWEET PEAS‘ UP TO (DATE tion of the sub-soil it may be advisable to break up the bottom with a pick or even to add drainage in the shape of clinkers, stone, etc. No hard and fast rule can be laid down for this, as it all depends on the situation of the house, drainage, natural soil at the bottom of the bed, etc. Put in the manure with no niggardly hand if it is thoroughly rotted, but keep it well in the second spit, also incorporate fine bone meal at the rate of two ounces per square yard and a little Scotch soot, using these in the top spit. When all is finished give the bed a dress- ing of freshly slaked lime, afterwards raking or pointing Ins If there is any doubt as to the perfect condition of the soil it had better be changed. Use good fresh loam of a medium nature—that is, neither too heavy nor yet light and sandy—and add manure and fertilizers as sug- gested. The beds should, where possible, be prepared a few weeks previous to sowing or planting, that the soil may naturally settle. SEED SOWING Sow the seed very thinly—say one inch apart—in boxes containing sharp sand only. This will insure perfect germination, and obviate all risk of seed rotting. When sowing cover the seed not more than half an inch. Water thoroughly and cover with paper to prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture. After having tried all plans | could think of, | have proved this to be the most perfect method. If some varieties are slow in starting it is a simple matter to find the seed in the sand, when they should 26 SEED. SOWANG be chipped and replaced, following which they will very quickly sprout. When the seedlings are two or three inches high they must be transplanted to their flowering quarters— care being taken not to injure the roots, setting them three to four inches apart in the row. Wherever prac- ticable the rows should be at least four feet apart. Another method from which | have had excellent results, is to make a two inch furrow in the beds, filling it with sand into which the seed is pressed to a depth of from one to one and one-half inches. This naturally saves the labor of transplanting. Or again the seed may be soaked in warm water for twelve hours—when on examination any seed which shows no sign of swell- ing should be chipped, and all immediately sown. To ensure a long cutting season and first quality flowers, a perfect root growth to the plant is essential, - and this can be attained only by keeping the house as cool as possible during the earlier stages of growth. Give ventilation day and night, so long as there is no danger of frost. At this time a temperature around 4o to 46 degrees Fahr. at night—rising 10 degrees during the day—is what toaim for. If the house is much warmer the plants will quickly shoot up and prematurely pro- duce flowers long before the proper root foundation, so necessary for the future well-being of the plant, is laid. When coming into flower the temperature must be gradually raised to 50 degrees at night and 65 degrees to 70 degrees during the day, according to the weather. During cloudy damp weather the trouble with bud dropping may be experienced if the atmosphere in the house becomes laden with moisture. This is the time when the grower must be on the alert, and it may be 27 SWEET) (PEASSUP ZO: DATE found necessary to run a little extra heat in the pipes, at the same time carefully ventilating the house so that the dampness in the air may be expelled. But do not run up the temperature beyond 65 degrees; when in flower and during bright weather the day temperature may go to 70 degrees with safety. If stimulants in the shape of liquid manure be given it must be done with caution, for if applied indiscrimi- nately it may bring on a bad case of bud dropping, es- pecially during the shorter days. A_ light dressing of bone meal, pulverized sheep manure or thoroughly rotted old cow manure is recommended, and cow ma- nure as a diluted liquid is also safe. Provided the soil is fairly moist when the plants are set out, or the seed sown, very little water will be required for some time. Though, should the weather be mild and warm accompanied by much sun, it may be well to syringe the plants each morning, until it is ob- served that they have commenced to grow again. When growing strongly they must, of course, be watered regularly, at least whenever the soil shows signs of drying out. Do not water close up to the plants, and give the ground a thorough soaking. Al- ways water in the early part of the day and only during clear, bright weather. To safeguard the crop from the green fly or pea louse, the house should be fumigated at least every ten days, for should this pest once get a good start it is very difficult to eradicate. WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES | have found that the most accommodating variety with regard to vagaries of temperature and weather is 28 WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES ——— Yarrawa. It seldom vexes the grower by dropping its buds, while the ‘flowers are of great size, and if at all well grown, are invariably borne on extra long stiff stems. I am hoping that all the seedlings I have now on the way with Yarrawa blood in them may prove to be of equally easy culture, for, so far, no Sweet Pea at present on the market is so easily handled as that fine variety. Yarrawa is a cream ground bicolor, color a pleasing shade of bright rose-pink, wings creamy-pink, and it was one of the best sellers on the market during the past season. Another popular color is the pink and white bi- color—the old Blanche Ferry color—which in the new Spencer type is grand. There are now many hybridists at work on this new type of Sweet Pea, so we may safely predict the intro- duction of new colors, and improvements over existing sorts in the near future. In addition to its usefulness for indoor culture it is now being grown in quantity in the open in the sunny South, where, from sowings made at the end of September or early October, it blooms from December until June. With the exception of that fine Australian variety -Yarrawa, the following varieties are the result of crosses | have been making at ForDHOOK Farms. _| started this interesting work in 1909, crossing the best of the then available Spencers on such varieties as Burpee’s Earliest of All—Burpee’s Earliest Sunbeams—Mont Blanc, etc. Since the introduction of Yarrawa | have used it almost exclusively and am looking forward to much improve- ment in this most valuable type. 29 SWEET’ PEAS UP’ fO "DATE EaRLY KinG (Burpee 1917). Crimson self. EARLY PINK BEAutTy (Burpee 1917). Light pink self. EARLY ENCHANTRESS (Burpee 1917). Deep pink. ForDHOOK PINK AND WuiTE (Burpee 1917). Pink standard, white wings. ForDHOOK Rose (Burpee 1916). Rich rose self. FORDHOOK EARLY SANKEY (Burpee 1917). White self. Earty LoveLiness (Burpee 1917). White suffused pink. Primrose BEAuTy (Burpee 1917). Primrose self. Rosy Morn (Burpee 1917). Scarlet and rose. YARRAWA (Yates 1912). Rosy-pink and cream. ForRDHOOK Pink (Burpee 1916). Lavender pink self. GROWING EARLY OR WINTER FLOWERING SWEET2PEAScEIN-REE OREN The winter flowering varieties described above, in addition to their usefulness for growing under glass, will be found of great value for outdoor culture. In fact, in localities where on account of extreme heat the summer flowering Sweet Peas did not succeed, or at best gave only a few flowers ere the vines died off, this new type can be grown to perfection. We have received glowing letters in praise of the early flowering varieties from friends located in Florida and other warm sections, where, from seed sown in late September and early October, they have cut beautiful Sweet Peas for Christmas, while the vines continued blooming until May or June. The summer flowering or original varieties of Spen- cers sown at the same time will not flower until April. Therefore, | recommend with confidence using the 30 SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION early flowering varieties in all tropical or sub-tropical countries, our Southern States and other localities which are frostless—or almost so. A little frost will not per- manently harm the Sweet Pea, although it would spoil the expanded and opening flowers. SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION: The majority of the blue and lavender colored Sweet Peas produce small, poor looking seeds of a mottled appearance, which by the novice may be regarded as of inferior quality, yet it is simply the nature of these varieties to produce such seed, and they are of as good germinative power as the large, round, plump seed which we find in the other colors. Some seasons Sweet Peas are slow in germinating or fail to do so altogether. Now, before condemning the seedsman, it is well to find out where the fault lies, and if the grower will take the trouble to carefully examine the seed, nine times out of ten he will find that although they are still perfectly dormant they are quite plump and fresh, and if the outer coating is cut with a sharp knife, taking care not to harm the embryo plant, he will find that in a few days they will germinate freely and well. The reason assigned for this state of affairs is that the seeds have been so well ripened— say after a very hot, dry summer—that the coating has become so hard as to be quite impervious to mois- ture. In the case of new and expensive varieties, many growers have now adopted the method of cutting all the seed ere planting. | recommend soaking the seed 3h SWEET PEAS “UP "1O; DARE overnight in warm water. On examination any seeds which show no sign of swelling should then be chipped as shown on the illustration. White seeded varieties are also a cause of much annoyance at times, as they are apt to rot in the ground should the weather be wet and cold after planting. We, therefore, advise sowing these rather thicker than the dark seeded sorts, and not so deeply; or, to hurry germination, and so avoid the risk of them rotting in the soil, the seed should be soaked in warm water for twelve hours previous to planting, or, if starting them in pots, use an inch layer of sand, as advised on page 12, this being the method | always use when planting scarce and new varieties, and with most satisfactory results. Another method to insure perfect germination is to soak the large plump dark seeded sorts in pure sulphuric acid for thirty minutes. After soaking, wash thorough- ly in three changes of water. Do not subject the white or small mottled varieties to the acid, or if doing so, it should not be for more than five minutes. INSECT PESTS: AND ZB E1GEor THE Cut Worm.—This pest is in some seasons most destructive to the vines in early stages of growth, and 32° INSECT “PESTS AND BLIGHT various methods of combating its ravages have from time to time been advocated, such as hand-picking, sowing lettuce beside the rows of Peas, etc. However, a dusting of tobacco powder or soot will be found as effectual a deterrent to the mischief caused by these worms as anything you can try. RED SPIDER AND GREEN APHIS OR “ PEA LOUSE.”’— These small insects are apt to attack the vines during hot and dry periods, and war must be waged against them as soon as they appear or they will multiply so quickly as to soon destroy all growth. We recommend spraying with whale-oil soap or a weak solution of kerosene emulsion, applying it every third day until the vines are quite free of them. Vines that are kept growing steadily and that receive a spraying of clear water occasionally in the evening are less liable to be attacked by these pests. The Sweet PEA BLIGHT, as the writer has seen it, appears to be caused by drought combined with shallow cultivation, for had the roots been able to penetrate the hard subsoil and reached rich soil, the plants would naturally have kept healthy and strong, instead of drying up, flagging, and becoming yellow, in many cases ere they had even bloomed. STREAK DisEAseE (Thilavia bassicola), although so prevalent some seasons in England, rarely, if ever, is to be met with in this section, and I have not heard of it being seen in California. Scientists who have studied “streak’’ seem to have arrived at the conclusion that errors in manuring were at the root of the evil. We are told that all nitrogenous manures should be withheld from the Sweet Pea, for as it belongs to the 33 SWEET PEAS UP* TO DATE leguminosz family of plants, all of which are capable of assimilating the free nitrogen of the atmosphere, it is unnatural to feed it nitrates, as by so doing the nitrogen-gathering bacteria in the root nodules die of inanition and the plant is, therefore, susceptible to disease. Therefore where disease has prevailed it is well to avoid the too free use of farmyard manure. If the soil must have humus, apply the dung to the previous crop, or use it only in a thoroughly rotted condition, as in that state most of the nitrogen will previously have been liberated. Some experts claim that the free use of sulphate of potash will prevent disease, and advocate applying it at the rate of one pound to every four yard run of row two weeks previous to planting or sowing, forking it well into the ground. Of course, this must be done only when the soil is in a sufficiently dry condition. Permanganate of potash is also advocated and | have.found much benefit to follow its use. Dissolve one ounce of the crystals in six gallons of water, thor- oughly saturate the soil around the plants, and also spray the vines at intervals of six or seven days. THE, BEST SWEE feREAs So much depends on the personal taste or fancy of the expert that it would be absurd to say arbitrarily that any set of varieties were the very best. However, to assist those who have not had an opportunity of making comparisons, the following selections can be de- pended upon whether they are intended for exhibition purposes or for garden and home decoration. My first choice is those marked with an asterisk. © 34 THE. BEST SWEET PEAS ~- CUIGI CU Oca Primrose edged rose e@onstance Hinton: ........ White self WaNtEyE SPENCER: % one oes <5 White edged rose GGISMOSHER 5 sto2.5 4/2 aisle ss Salmon-pink on cream PrclilipaydOl, 0. 6 ss. co ee ye Rosy cerise selimida PearsOn.....<.+..-.-- Blush pink BRET OLOSS i. So oslo es Fire-red self yRloradale Fairy... 2.%2-...- Primrose self Florence Nightingale....... Lavender Georee bierberts 5.8.2.0 e Rosy carmine PICECUIES clk Galan ee eles Deep pink SMIMITVIUALOE 2.50022 (5. 2 wo. Cerise-pink and salmon King Edward Spencer...... Bright crimson PACIMCE WV INILC cia Lcgsis oad Se Pure white Biianearet Atleess.. ...