| THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING By AMBROSE TAYLOR Sod Xi 4 $ : ene Seetueeepeusperenmsmernnrenoneienstearaarmeenenmenen nea IRE ce DAO ase ead Sa ae ~ > ge ae ~ - ik —— - AMBROSE TAYLOR oOhe TAYLOR SYSTEM of PRUNING By AMBROSE £ PLY LOR Being an efficient method of pruning deciduous fruit trees for best results, as developed by the author after twenty-five years of practical work and study, and containing valuable information as to the care and irrigation of the orchard, the preparing of the ground for planting, the handling and drying of the fruit, etc., etc. PRESS OF EATON & CO. 1917 SAN JOSE, CAL. (COPYRIGHT, 1917 BY AMBROSE TAYLOR) { ©c.a455629 FER 20 1917 “re | 1 \ Orchard of French Frune trees. It represents trees that have been cut to form a strong crotch. This is the proper crotch that trees should have to keep them from splitting. The crotch of these trees was formed by the cutting back system when they were young, according to the system of forming the crotch of a tree described in this book. Limb of a French Prune tree, 30 inches long, with 72 prunes on it. This is a sample of fruit grown in an orchard that has been pruned by the Taylor system for three years. Limb of an Imperial Prune iree, 9 inches long, with about 16 prunes on it. This tree has been pruned the last two years by the Taylor system. This orchard was non-productive before using this sys- tem to renew it. CONTENTS Face Chapter’: Leys ac 2incctpe c/o tee aaa me 13 Preparing the soil for tree setting—Time to set trees—Selecting the trees—Laying off the ground and setting the trees—How to cut trees for setting. Chapter’ Tole cc: a en eee ee Ava eepanyrn sar 2 How to cut the tree after it has had one year’s erowth—The importance of forming a good crotch and how it is accomplished—The season for prun- ing. Chapter DM ows neSoe sda eee eee oo er ee eee 30 How to prume the trees the second and. turd years—Pruning in windy sections—Spraying for curl leaf. Chapter. TV.) 25. cc tengcPetecaas es ese > 6. acces oe +5 Pruning the tree the fourth year. Chapter Vo. secede st eee & eee ae eee D0 The Apple and the Fig trees. Chapter Will. 4c s..0%a5sl once p ase. 6 ae eee eer ee ay Renewins the lite of the tree Chapter VWs 32) os 52 Sie eae eee ene ee 6S Cultivation and Irrigation. Chapters, VAREE 2 42... 2 dics oe a) ee 1 The importance of drying fruit properly and how it should be done. Chapter fs. ooo es. Sea ee ee fA) Cultivation of grape vines. Chapte ie a airs ak 20h het yw. oe ees eee ene rr 78 Fruit growing in the Eastern States. FOREWORD WISH to explain to my readers my motive in writing this little book. I have spent half of my lifetime, or. over twenty-five years, in studying the effects of pruning decid- uous fruit trees. The main part of my experience has been adapted to California scil and climate. Any knowledge gained from reading books | did not consi:l- er as knowledge until | proved it, by my own experimenting. I had no idea of writing a book on this subject when I start- ed to study the life of a tree. My great love of Nature led me to kecome more interested in the underlying priucipies that gov- ern this particular phase cr expression of.life. The tree has the same interest to me that the human body has to the surgeon. The same plan or system exists in the lite of a tree that exists in our own physical body. I regret that I have not kept exact records of all my experi- menting along these lines, though I feel that it weuld have been a difficult task, had I undertaken to keep notes of the many dis- coveries that I have made, as my whole life and mind has been absorbed in this very interesting study. I sometimes feel that words are inadequate to express all that I wish to give out to my fellow-workers in the fruit industry, and | am not able vo express all that | know on this great subject in this little book. I only hope to awaken the minds of the fruit growers to the value of careful and scientific methods of pruning deciduous fruit trees and give to them an exact system in concise form which they can readily follow and prove the merit of same ta their own satisfaction. Through experience I have learned that there is no sucli thing as chance in Nature. There is a cause for every outward manifestation of life we see. We may not be familiar with the first principles that gev- ern what we see. I agree with the Apostle Paul when he saia that it was the “Unseen that was real.” It is the unseen that 1s the cause. There is little use to deal with effects when we over- look the cause. When we have an understanding of the cause that will pro- duce certain effects, it 1s possible to formulate a system. This is what I endeavored to do, and J have been successful in formulating a system of pruning deciduous fruit trees favor- able to the soil and climate of Caifornia. After spending so many years to establish this system of pruning, I felt that I did not want to monopolize what I knew for my own exclusive use. It was my earnest desire to give the general public the opportunity to receive it. I felt that L wished that every man who was interested could have the advantage of what it has taken me so many years to prove. At first I thought of trying to. teach. This was the only medium I could think of through which to give out my knowl- edge to the world. JI- soon found, however, that it would over- tax my strength to try to teach all who were eager for informa- tion on this subject. I realized that, if it could be given out in some effective form, it would mean millions of dollars added to the income of those engaged in the fruit industry. When I affirm that I have proved the system I'am giving out, | wish to emphasize it in such a way that it will make an impression on the minds of my readers, so that they may have faith and not doubt that I have not thoroughly tested every rule, or the different ctits,.on the several varieties of Inuit trees taat this beok treats of. JI-am not writing of some one else’s ex- periments, or of some experiments that I have not had sufficient evidence of the result to prove that it can be satisfactorily re- lied upon. That there is a system in Nature, I know every close ob- server of Nature or cne who lives in close touch with natural laws governing the universe will concede to be a fact. If this is true, there is no reason why we should not discover the system that governs any particular departinent of Nature. I claim that I have discovered many of the natural laws that govern the life of fruit trees in California. I ask my readers to inake use of my rules, and when they have tested them thor- oughly they will have the knowledge that I wish them to gain through a careful reading and study of this book. I\xperience is the only true teacher. We cannot always de- pend-on what we read in bocks. Practical experience can be depended on. We are helped by being given rules to follow from the other fellow’s experience. I have tried to be the pathfinder, or pioneer, in this work, although there is an awak- ening ef interest at the present time in this subject. The latter part of 1914 I discovered that the University of California had opened up a department dealing with Pomology. Since that time I have been very much interested in the growth of their work, and there has been a co-operative interest ex- isting between myself and the Professors in charge, as well as the class of students that are under the instruction of that de- partment. I sincerely sympathize with this work, and I feel that the interest has just begun in trying to understand the ef- fects of scientific principles in cutting a tree. This system that I have decided to give out in book form, | know will benefit many people. I have decided to use this me- dium for teaching what I can conscientiously say is a reliable system of pruning deciduous fruit trees, because of the many requests of interested friends and fruit growers, and also be- cause of my own conscicusness of the great need in the fruit growing industry of scientific knowledge, gained through a life- time of practical experience. Yours sincerely, AMBROSE, TAYLOR. tHe TAYLOR SYSTEM-OF PRUNING 15 CHART Is - I. Preparing the Soil and Setting Irees HE first thing to be thought of in starting the growth of i trees is to see that the soil is in a good productive state. It is a good idea to make some investigation of the ele- ments of the soil and its adaption to the growth of certain vari- eties of trees, and also study the scientific methods of supply- ing the elements that are lacking to produce the active growth of trees. There 1s so much that can be written about the many vari- eties of scils in the State of California, it would fill a book it- self, which I have no idea cf dcing. I intend to confine myself to a few useful hints necessary to fruit growers, in order for them to get the best results from selecting suitable soil for their purpose, also to aid them by giving them some simple rules to foliow in preparing the different soils for setting trees. In preparing the soil for setting trees, it is well to begin by sowing vetch, barley or oats after the first rains in the fall of the year and plowing this crop under the following year, the lat- ter part of March or the first of April, and plow it over again in June of the same year. This will be enough cultivation un- filsthe first of the next year. When the trees are set in January or February the soil should be thoroughly cultivated at that time, plowed deeply and disked so that the soil is well pulverized and in a good tillable condition. This method of using a cover crop to enrich the soil requires the sacrifice of a yeur’s crop, which many fruit growers cannot afford. For that reason, | would not advise this treatment of the soil if it is in a good productive condition, but if it 1s in an impoverished condition it is not a waste of time to start from the foundation by building up the soil, giving it the proper stimulation necessary to feed and nourish strong and fruitful erees. 14 THE TAYLOR SYSTEMeGre Pr RUINENG Showing an Apricot tree in its natural form when brought from the nur- sery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. Cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. Tee rAY LOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 15 I will mention a few well known varicties of soil in the State. There are the heavy soils such as the doby and clay. These souls need special cultivation. They should be plewed deep, not less than 8 or 10 inches in depth, and thoroughly disked, so that the ground beccmes well pulverized. The light soils, such as the sandy, need not be plowed over 5 or 6 inches dee ep, and less cultivation in other ways. The latter grade of soil is. easy to cultivate. It does net require much more than half of the work that the heavy soils need to keep them in a good condition. There is a section of land in this State that is called the hard- pan scil. I mention this because in its natural state it 1s vety poor land for fruit trees. It can be used for berries or small fruit. lt cannot be made profitable for fruit trees unless the hard surface is dynamited through to the under soil, which is very productive. With good ane and plowing this soil can be brought out. I have known trees to thrive well in this soil after the dynamiting process. It is not necessary to use a fertilizer on the heavy soils at tree setting time. ‘The lighter soils will be benefited by the use of manure, if care is used not to let it come in close contact with the trees. It should not be permitted to be any closer than 4 inches to the tree. It has the effect of burning the tree if it is too near, and at the setting time stage the tree has nct strength to survive. Many people make this mistake and the result 1s that they lose their trees, by them dying at an early age. I think it is the safest not to use a fertilizer until the second year. I especially recommend it to be used on the light soits not later than the second year. It is not my intention of treating extensively of the soils, as this is not in my line. There are soil experts that specialize in analyzing different soils and discovering the elements that are lacking and advising just what kind of a fertilizer should be used to supply the elements that are needed. It is not extravagance to secure the best knowledge on a subject of so much import- ance to the fruit grower as the productive elements of the soil. 16 THE TAYLOR S¥STEM OE PRUNING eee een Ee ne Re See 5 silsnsnninsensennn aoa eee naneaennn earns RT escent ~ scniaieennannaanernennnertecenen eT =o or eeriontinecetinineoiinne 0S natn nmin nountacinsiy e cio : e Seenmeatinnacsht. creraaheghes aanaaaencthion conde De , srecemananrceutnenin eS a two-year-old French Prune tree, in its natural form when nursery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready ite where the tree was budded onto Showing brought from the for setting. The cross marks indicz the root. Hb TAY LOR SY Sole MOF PRUNING it NURSERY STOCK. I feel that a few remarks regarding nursery stock may in- spire my readers to take a deeper interest in this impcrtant fac- tor in successful fruit growing. The more interest and appre- ciation that the fruit grower gives to nursery stock, the more the nurseryman will try to become efficient in his special part of carrying out the purpose cf obtaining the best results in hor- ticulture. I assume that the majority of my readers have some knowl- edge of the life and growth of trees. In what is termed in hu- man life as the prenatal period, in tree life it is the presetting period, or the period of growth that takes place in the nursery previous to the setting. For those that have no knowledge regarding the nursery work or the beginning of the life of a tree, I will explain that the seed is planted in the nursery usually in November cr De- cember. Trees grown from seed planted from October the 24th un- til November the 23rd will produce trees that would have more fruitful and reproductive qualities. This is owing to planetary conditions. The sun is passing through the zodiacal sign of Scorpio at this time of the year, which is a fruitful and repro- ductive sign. This comes under the heading of astrology. If more attention were given to the influence of planetary condi- tions on the earth and its products, there would be greater re- sults derived from the resources of the earth. The planting of the seedis to form the rcot part of the tree. My readers may not think that it is important to have the ele- ments of fruitfulness in this part of the tree, but that 1s a mis- take. The root of the tree is the source of supplying the life principle to the tree. After the seed is planted it should grow from two to three years before it is budded. The season for budding trees is usu- ally the months of August and September. The last part of August, after the 21st of the month, up to the 20th of Septem- ber, planetary conditions are favorable, because the sun is pass- 18 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING coe Og TN reir te So wie trenton homey iets cis ptorge th tatiacte seine encnenet weeps srctier Ap ACC LSLC LO, sseeoropengee Showing a Cherry tree with a one-year-old top budded onto a four-year- old root, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. The cross marks indicate where ihe tree was budded onto the root. Th DAY LOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING qe ing through the zodiacal sign cf Virgo at this time of the year. It is a sign that favors any kind of chemistry, and it is at this time that the chemical process of blending the root stock and the scion or the tree takes place. This time of the year is favor- able for any kind of tree grafting. In fact it has been used in medern times unconscious of the natural laws governing it. There are many rules we follow today that have been given us by former generations, that had more scientific knowledge than we have about the laws of Nature. The nurseries have been using almond, apricot, peach and myrobolin roct to form the stock or the body of the tree. At- ter this is two or three years of age the budding of the scion or tree onto this root takes place. The growth above the bud ts cut away to give the new tree or scion a chance to draw the vitality from the root. I wish to make it impressive that the scions that are used for budding trees should be chosen from the strong and vigorous part of the tree and not from the wild growth that is lacking in fruitful properties. After the tree has been budded onto the root, it should grow from one to three years, and sometimes it is let grow a much longer period. Personally I prefer setting trees one and two years of age. There are some rocts better adapted for certain soils. The myrobolin root is better adapted to the heavy soil, especially for French and Sugar prunes. The almond root is best adapted to the light sandy soils. The nurseries use both almond and apricot root for Imperial prune trees. The apricot is much better than the almond. | find it is better for the fruitfulness or productive qualities of the Imperial prune. I have made these few remarks in order to assist the fruit erowers In making good selections of trees for the purpose of setting. In making a selection of trees for setting, choose trees that have good rocts. The root is the main source of supplying the life-giving forces to the tree and if it is not in a good healthy 20 THE TAYLOR SYSTEAOF PRUNING i niente eros erin sii SUP nc ? | Showing an Imperial Prune tree in its natural form when brought from the nursery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, teady for setting. The cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 21 condition, free from knots and insects, it is deficient. Choose trees on which the buds are not too scattered. They are apt to be more fruitful. Of course, the strength and vitality of the tree is equally to be considered. Learn to detect the differ- ence between trees grown from strong wood growth, and trees that are grown from wild and unfruitful wood. Demand the best from the nurseryman and he will surely meet the demands. The selection of good trees regardless of expense is the best economy. It is difficult to have good results from anything that is not started right. This is the reason. that every fruit grower should be interested in the nursery stock, and seek to co-operate with and support the nurseryman that supplies the best trees, because it 1s one of the most important factors in the productiveness and Icngevity of the tree. CAvING OFF THE GROUND AND SETTING TELE REE S- I*or setting prune trees, lay off the ground so that the trees will be set in squares 22 ft. apart. The old system of setting prune trees was to set them 18 ft. apart, but we find that after the tree is over 20 years of age it needs more space for growth. Examine the tree and the roots, and cut off all parts of the root that have been broken. Set the tree so that the roots are spread apart sufficiently to give it space encugh to grow; see that.the roots are perpendicular, giving them a chance to grow deep into the soil, instead of growing too much on the surface. Set the tree so that the bud of the tree will not be over 2 inches below the surface. Py close observation the fruit grower will Perame to recognize the patt of the tree called the bud, It is the mark where the tree has been budded on to the root stock. Notice illustrations in this book of different varieties of trees selected from nursery stock, showing the markings of the bud on them. Cut all deciduous frit trees, such as prune, peach, apricot, pear, nectarine and their several varieties, to a heading 24 inch- es above the earth, just above a bud. Remove all the lateral - 22 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Showing a Peach tree in its natural form when brought from the nursery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. The cross marks indicate. where the tree was budded: onto the root. PEE TAN EOR SsYSolLeM OF PRUNING 23 limbs, leaving it in the form of a stub, according to illustrations in this book. When a tree is set the earth should be tramped arcund it, os MT | Fen o) at 4 pest) a & GH peak) a) = sas ~ as t , om ee tela t= Qy cr Vv ca = Inut trees. a Ww , of Walnut tree does not develop many lon The nature of the lateral 1 1ety. lety wood growth var the fruit spur var . Row of French Franquette variety 50 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING CHAPTER ys The Apple and the Fig lrees HAVE, not mentioned the apple or fig trees. I have had a I purpose in not dealing with them at the same time I did the other fruit trees. The system of pruning them is different, and I wish to deal with the system of pruning these two trees in the form of a synopsis of the entire system of pruning the tree from the first year until it has reached maturity. My ob- ject in doing this is to make this system of pruning so plain and impress it on the minds of my readers so that they cannot fail to understand it. This book is written for the men that deal with the products of Mother Earth, and it is my aim to give them the knowledge that will enable them to assist nature in bringing out the best i a tree! I realize that the man who deals with the soil has very lit- tle time for studying horticulture from books. His lessons are usually gained from the study of Nature, usually at the expense of experimenting without any knowledge as to what will be the result of the experiment. I do not wish to elaborate on the subject of horticulture. My aim is to interest my readers in my system of pruning a tree so that they will understand it and have enough confidence in it to give it a trial and demonstrate its value tor themselves. The apple tree is specially adapted to soils that have plenty of moisture. It is only in-the damp sections of the state of California that it is profitable to raise apples. The states of Oregon and Washington, where they have a much heavier rain- fall, is much more adapted to apple growing. Some of the apple growing sections of California draw their moisture from the fogs, but extensive irrigation is required. li would not be wise to set apple trees where there are not abun- dant resources to draw moisture from, either natural or arti- ficial means of supplying the need. THe TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING D1 Apple tree that has a tall, slender growth. This tree should have been cut back, so it would carry its fruit without breaking down or bending the limbs of the tree, and at the same time preventing sunburn. 52 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM GP Paine The setting of the apple tree varies a littk from the other fruit trees. Set the bud 2 inches below the surface and cut the tree just above a bud, about 20 inches above the earth. Do not re- move the lateral limbs. Lay off the ground so that the trees are set in 30 ft. squares. This gives plenty of space for spread- ing growth. Use more irrigation with apple trees than with other fruit trees. I will refer to this later in a chapter dealing with cultivation. The growth of apple trees the first year is not as vigorous as other fruit trees. They are slower in reaching their maturity and they should not be cut back as vigorously as other fruit trees. Like the walnut, they should have time to mature. Clip the end ot the new growth back one-third the first year, leaving two-thirds of the new growth on the tree. Cut between buds, just above a leaf bud if possible. The second year should be a resting period for the apple tree. There will be several new lateral limbs on the tree the sec- ond year. Leave these on the tree. The growth of the apple tree should not be hurried by pruning. Cutting the tree pre- duces too much wood growth before the tree is old enough io supply the new growth with strength to support it. The third year's pruning is about the same as the second with other fruit trees. The tree should be pruned to form the tree. The apple needs a spreading growth as much as possible. Use the system of cutting back about 6 inches of the main limbs. Cut to out- side buds for spreading growth. Thin out the lateral limbs about even or alternately, one on the inside and one on the out- side. Leave them about 4 or 6 inches apart. Cut out all cross limbs ace to the parent limb so that the tree will be smooth and free from knots caused from carelessness in pruning. The fourth ae should be a resting period the same as the second year. The fifth year thin out the lateral and cross limbs the same as the third year, but do not cut back the ends of the main branches of the tree. The sixth year is the right time to do the end clipping again, Cut back 6 inches of the main limbs. This will strengthen them before they assume the responsibility of bearing fruit. Cut to an outside bud. This creates the spreading growth that is de- 53 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING ear to be done each y < uning pr g the proper in show ’ Apricot tree ot THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OFePRUNING sirable for easy gathering of the fruit and it will stand the hard- ships of wind and the weight of the heavy lcad of fruit better than the upward growth. The horizontal growth has more streneth to endure the hardships that the apple tree is subject to, from its heavy and burdensome fruit. A tall tree with up- ward growth is in danger of splitting when heavily laden with a fall crop Of fruit. After the sixth year of the apple tree, care should be used to keep the lateral limbs well thinned out so that there is no waste of strength and at the same time it gives the tree enough space for ventilation, and exposure to the sun of all parts of the tree. This insures its health and strength to produce a high grade of fruit. The lateral limbs should be cut out every year, unless there is a rest needed because of the tree not forming much density of growth. The end clipping every three years is enough for the apple tree. This will be sufficient to renew the life forces by drawing the saps to the terminal parts of the tree in a way that it is equally distributed to all parts of the tree, disseminat- ing its strength so that there is no danger of part of the tree dying. This system can be applied through the entire life of the apple tree All that is necessary in assisting the growth of the apple tree is this scientific sy stem of pruning it from the time it is set. This systein of pruning the apple tree is adapted to Califor- nia climate. The eastern climate requires a different sysvemi. The end clipping cannot be relied on where the climate is cold. The thinning out of the lateral limbs is successful, but the short season for pruning makes the end clipping risky. The favcrable season for pruning is after the ground has thawed out and be- fore the beginning of the activity of the saps of the tree. This season is not very long. Sometimes not over three days, and very seldom lasts over ten days. The end clipping is not advis- able. It has a tendency to weaken the tree in the eastern cli- mates. However, I am confining my advice to California cli- mate, as my experience has not been extensive in the eastern climates. I will mention the apple tree again in a chapter dealing with An 8-year-old Cherry tree that is no further advanced than a 3-year-old tree should be if pruned according to the - Taylor system of pruning trees. The same tree after it had been pruned according to the Taylor system. One year’s growth has been 15 to 20 inches. 06 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING the subject of renewing the life of trees that have been neglect- ed through the lack of proper pruning. THE BiG eae. The setting of the fig tree varies very little from other trees, except that it should not be cut to a heading. Leave it in its natural state. The young fig tree has too large or coarse a pith to stand cutting. The first few years of the life of a fig tree should not be dis- turbed with pruning. There is very little pruning needed un- til it is 10 or.12 years of age. Then thin out the lateral limbs: Cut them close to the junction of the parent limb. Never use the end clipping on fig trees. The pith of the tree is too coarse to stand it. Thinning out the lateral limbs after it has reached maturity will produce a better grade of fruit. Like the apple tree the fig tree needs plenty of irrigation, but it will thrive better in soils that have less moisture. There are very few of the fruit growers that do any pruning to the fig tree. I have tested the thinning out of the lateral limbs, and | find that this is a wonderful assistance in the growth of a fig tree, if practised every two or three years. Cut off all the sprouts sprmging up from the root of the tree. These should have attention every year. They draw the strength from the root of the tree that should be directed to the main part of the tree. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING a7 CHAR REAR. V1, Renewing the Life of the Tree HIS chapter deals with principles that are more important than any other, as they are the principles that will be of more general use and will reach the needs of every fruit grower. They teach the system of renewing the life of the tree that has nct had the assistance of the right principle of pruning. Many orchardists are discouraged because their trees are in a dying condition, brought on through neglect or wrong meth- ods of pruning, and many have orchards in which some of the trees are beginning to lose some of their productive qualities. In fact, there are very few orchards that cannot be improved and brought up to a higher standard of productivity, both in quantity and quality of fruit. There are many trees that have had a short life, because they have not had the assistance they should have had in their early age. However, there is a chance for the orchardist to renew the life of his trees at any age. I have been able to dem- onstrate this through my own experience with an old orchard at Evergreen, in Santa Clara County, California. There are many orchards that can be saved as this one was. It was in a very pocr condition and almost everybody doubted that it could be renewed. It is a living demonstration cf what can be accom- plished in restoring the life and productiveness of an orchard in a few years without resorting to grafting. There are very few orchards that have reached that stage of decline where it is necessary to have the entire orchard reset. I will start this subject of renewing the life of old trees with some helpful remarks regarding the resetting of trees. Trees can be reset the first year after old trees have heen re- moved from the soil, although many orchardists believe that the soil is in too impoverished a condition to reset young trees at once. Set the tree as described in a previous chapter and use the system of cutting off all the lateral limbs except one after 58 THE TAYLOR SYSIEM GE PRUNING Au old Cherry tree that has had its life renewed by proper pruning—cutting off the ends of the Jnaubs. iis Tey eOR SYSltHM OF PRUNING 59 the first years growth and cutting it back to 3 or 4 inches, which will strengthen the young tree, so that it will thrive, even if the soil is not up to a high standard and has become impov- erished through the growth of old trees. If the tree should be weak when it has reached its second years growth, cut it back more vigorously than you would a tree that had been set in soil that had not been exhatsted from the growth of cld trees. Peas, barley or vetch sowed and plowed under ihe follow- ing year enriches the soil and is very good for young trees, es- pecially where trees are reset. Trees that are reset may need a little more lime, but they scon grow out equal to other trees. If pruned carefully and the soil is cared for, there is no need of loss cf time in resetting, as so many orchardists think. In caring for peach, pear and nectarine trees that have been neglected, I would advise spraying them for the curl leaf, with a mixture of lime, bluestone and sulphur. This is the best mix- ture to overcome the curl leaf that these variety of trees are subject to. This should ke used in February before the leaves Start. Old trees that have not had the proper pruning in their youth need more careful pruning than those that have had prop- er pruning. Where the tops of the trees are dying, cut back the new wood to 4 to 6 inches of all the main branches of the tree. If this should require cutting into wood over an inch in diameter, use a dressing of wax, made out of asphaltum and paraffin, pro- portioned 1 lb. of paraffin to 4 lbs. of asphaltum. The cutting back of the main limbs will make a drawing from the roots of the tree to these terminal parts. Thin out the lateral limbs, leaving only those that are strong and give them encugh space to receive a supply of vitality from the parent limb. LEM: OF PRUNING 65 Showing a Sugar Prune tree grafted onto an old tree, and how it should be pruned. inches. Cut half of this back. The next year’s growth will be stronger. Cut away about half of the new growth each year until it makes a strong new growth and then cut back about 4 or 6 inches. After following this up for three or four years the life of the tree will be sufficiently renewed to produce enough fruit spurs to raise a full crop of fruit. The French prune has a heavier growth of fruit spurs than aimost any other variety of tree. The end ciipping is very es- seiitial where the fruitage is heavy because of the need of strong and vigorous wood growth to support the fruit. THE TAYLOR S¥STEM OF PRUNING 6 ) ( is been he 1t old, before Prune tree, 8 years rench fF pruned. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING The same tree as on preceding page, after it has been properly pruned. 67 68 THE TAYLOR SYS?E MV Or PR NIG CHAP Eke lite Cultivation and Irrigation HIS chapter deals with cultivation of the soil for trees with a few remarks that will aid the fruit grower in ob- taining the best results by giving the proper attention to the soil, at the proper season of the year. There is a time or season to do all things. Much depends on studying the laws of Nature and the harmony existing in Nature. “Man was created to have dominion over the earth,” so far as he conforms to natural laws. In the state of California we depend much on irrigation for sufficient moisture to de- velop the productiveness of our orchards. The ingenuity of the mind of man has supplied the element that Nature has lacked in this section of the earth, but 1f we did not have a natural ex- ample to guide us in seeing the effect of rainfail in other pro- ductive sections of the world, we would have to experiment to find out what element we needed. Since we know that it re- quires so much of the element of moisture to make the earth produce, we now use scientific methods more than in former periods, and in this State we have more need for scientic prin- ciples than in the States where they depend on Nature to sup- ply the moisture. Judgment must be used to obtain the best results from ir- rigation. It must be used to supply the lack in the natural sup- ply from rainfall. The rainfall of this State varies in different parts of the State. Some years the rainfall is short and some- times it is quite a wet season. If the rainfall has been light or if it 1s a dry section of the State, if there has’ not beem mame rainfall before the latter part of January, I would begin irriga- tion and irrigate thoroughly the last of January- This is the time of the year that moisture is needed to start the trees on their upward flow of saps and they should not be deprived of their need of moisture at this time. If there has been a heavy rainfall before the latter part of PoE LAYWOR SY STEM-OF PRUNING 69 January, and the trees have been supplied through Nature with sufficient moisture, the first irrigation can be dispensed with. The second irrigation should be the last of April. At this time of the year the earth is in a condition to absorb the mois- ture. It does not evapcrate as it does later in the season. It is advisable to do work at the time that it is effective and full benefit can be derived from it. Many orchardists do much irri- gation with little beneficial results from it. The irrigation in the fall of the year is not necessary ui- less it is for the purpcse of raising a cover crop. These rules for irrigation can be applied to all deciduous fruit trees except apple, pear and fig trees. These trees require jore moisture. They should be irrigated oftener, about four ames 2 year. The last of January if itis a-dry season. If it is not, the first irrigation should be the last of April, the same as other fruit trees. The second irrigation the last of May, and the third the latter part of June. Some orchardists think that apricots, peaches and_ prunes should have the late irrigation, but I have tested it thoroughly and found that late moisture affects the fruity so thateteis lack- ing in the necessary sugar. The walnut trees start their upward saps later than the fruit trees, and a late irrigation is in perfect harmony with their na- ture, the last of April and the last of May. These two irriga- tions are enough moisture for the walnut tree. I do not intend to deal with fertilization to any great ex- tent, because it is not in my line. There are soil experts that specialize on this subject and I advise applying to them for as- sistance and knowledge as to what kind of fertilizer is needed to supply the elements that are lacking in the soil. However, | will give a few simple hints that will be helpful, in regard to cover crops and other methods of fertilization. Cover crops, such as vetch or burr clover, sowed in the fail cf the year just before or shortly after the first rains and plowed under the following year, the latter part of March or the first of April, is good to make the heavy soils more loamy and easier for it to become pulverized. It makes it better for cultivation, such as plowing and disking. The cover crops 70 THE TAYLOR SYSTE MSOF PRY NING have the effect cf retaining the moisture in. the light, sandy soils. Manure spread in the fall of the year will hold moisture, but I prefer spreading it in the winter, December and January, be- cause the soil absorbs more of its strength at that time. One good plowing a year after the trees are set, in March or April, will be sufficient to keep the soil in preper condition for fruit trees, if the ground is well cultivated by disking. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING tt PLAS Ri SO: Drying Fruit WANT to mention the importance of properly drying fruit. This subject 1s very important and does not concern the in- dividual fruit grower alone, but has so much bearing on the taste of the fruit that it influences the entire fruit market value. There is no chance to create a great demand for a poor grade of fruit, lacking in palatable and digestive qualities because of poor methods of drying. The last few years the eastern mar- kets have received fruit trom California that was soured at the time it was dried. ‘The fruit grower makes a mistake for him- self and all fruit growers by sending out fruit to the market that has not been carefully dried. The fruit growers have be- gun to take an interest in this subject and should try to impress it on the minds of the public. The following is from a circular given out by the “Growers Information Bureau,” 155 West Santa Clara St., San Jose, Cali- fornia. It includes the methods of drying fruit het I have usea. I have always taken great interest in drying fruit, and the in- formation given out by the “Growers Information Bureau” was compiled by a Mr. Harliss, who had been in my employ Ae many years. I was pleased to see that they are interested 1 this subject, because I realize how much depends on well dried fruit. [OUAIATTY DRIED APRICOTS. “First quality dried apricots sell the easiest, and at the best prices. The production of such apricots in quantity calls fora high degree of executive abiiity and painstaking attention to detail. In the following discussion are indicated some of the more important points to be considered in preparing dried ap- ricots. It is assumed that the orchard has been well cared for and that where the fruit has set too heavily it has been prop- erly thinned. Before the fruit is ripe the trays and boxes should —~l No THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING be washed in warm water if possible. Rubbing trays with steel brushes is a poor substitute for the wet bath, because the steel brush merely loosens the dirt and mold, which later soils the fruit wherever it touches the tray.. Before a pound of fruit is picked or cut, both trays and boxes should be cleaned. “The ripeness at which apricots are picked is an important factor. The fruit should be fully ripe, but not too ripe. Too ripe fruit makes too many slabs, ccsts more to pick and cut, and when dry is too.dark in color and sells at a low price. “Too green fruit shrinks excessively in drying and forms a very undesirable product. Apricots for drying should be picked and handled as carefully as those intended for canning. Shak- ing the fruit to the ground is faise economy. A receiving plat- form at the cutting shed is a great convenience. “For good results, sharp knives in the hands of the cutter should be insisted on. The fruit must be cut smoothly and squarely on the seam all the way round, and the halves placed accurately, cut side up, on the trays. The soft fruit should be kept separate from the properly ripened fruit, and should be prepared for the tray by an expert, who is paid, preferably, by the hour. Careful cutting will save much ripe fruit that wouid otherwise go to the slabs. “The quality of the finished preduct also depends on the sulphuring. The smokehouse should be tight. Tight construc- tion 1s not necessarily costly. A very effective smoke-house can be made of rough boards covered on the outside with roofing paper. About three and a half hours exposure to the sulphur fumes is sufficient, if a good free-burning sulphur is used. “Fruit that is properly sulphured retains its bright color much longer than poorly sulphured fruit. The quantity cf sulphur used and the time of expostrre are, to.a certam extent, matters of judgment. Large apricots require more sulphur than small, because there is a larger weight of such fruit on the tray. If the sulphur house is fairly tight, and there are 200 pounds of fruit in it, 5 pounds of sulphur should be ample. The pit cups in properly sulphured apricots should be half filled with syrup when withdrawn from the sulphur houses. Over-sulphuring should be avoided. Apricots that are over-sulphured have an THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 73 undesirable appearance, and stick tightly to the trays. Care should be exercised in a choice of dry ground. Placing the fruit where it is exposed to dust from the road or lanes in the or- chard should be avoided. If one has plenty of trays, the last part of the curing may take place in the stack, this imsuring a product with a uniform moisture content throughout.” This information is very good for drying apricots. I have nothing to add to it, only that I hope the apricot growers will apply the rules given out to them. If they will, they will soon bring up the standard of their fruit and create a ereater de- mand in the world markets for California dried fruit. The prune industry is very important in the State of Cali- fornia, and the proper drying process is even more important a factor than with apricots, because there is no market to amount to anything for prunes outside of the dried product. I have been very successful with prune drying. I never have any buck- skins, bloats or frogs. These are defects caused from improper dipping and drying. Many fruit growers have a certain percentage that they have to sell as second grade fruit, because of carelessness or lack of understanding of how to dip therm fruit. DIPPING AND DRYING PRUNES. This method of dipping the Sugar and Imperial prune will insure a high grade of fruit, free from buckskins, bloats or frogs: Make a very weak solution of ive, propertion, sixty gal- lons of water to two pounds of lye. Keep this boiling hot. Dip the prunes in this solution very quickly. Do not leave them in the lye longer than five seconds. This does not cook the prune too much. If they are left in the dip too long, the fruit is halt cooked and becomes soggy before it dries. Tt may sour. It makes a very undesirable grade of fruit. I usually dip prunes as fast as they are picked. It is much better for the fruit if it is not let stand in boxes too long. When the prunes are dipped and have been placed on the trays to dry, leave them on the trays two days, and then roll them over on the other side. This should be done by hand so they will 74 THE, TAYLOR SYSTEM IGF PRUNING not mash. This rolling is to keep them from molding, and it is an assistance in drying the fruit faster. If the weather is cloudy and damp, roll them every day. If the weather is nice, it will not be necessary to use the rolling process more than two times. For dipping French prunes a stronger lye solution is need- ed than for the two varieties that we have mentioned. Make a solution of lye, proportioned sixty gallons of water to six or seven pounds of lve. Keep the lye boiling hot while dipping the fruit, the same as with the other varieties. Dip them quick; do not leave them in the dip over five seconds, and I will assure you that if this is strictly adhered to the fruit will not have any of the seconds in it.that we have mentioned. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 75 CHAPIIOR «156; Cultivation of Grape Vines TART the growth of grape vines by choosing cuttings that have from six to eight buds on them. hey should be set so that four buds are in the ground and two buds are above the surface of the ground. The two buds above the earth start the wood and fruit growth ot the vine; the huds under the ground produce the .roct of the vine. After the vines have made the first year’s growth, cut off all the new canes except one which is to form the vine. Choose the strongest and most vigorous cane fer this purpose, and, if it should be over two feet in length, and it is to be a trellised vine, cut off one foot of the end of this cane. The second year’s growth should be treated on the same principle. Cut off all the new canes the same as you did the first year, again choosing the strongest to perpetuate the growth of the vine. After the canes are two or three years old they will have new canes branching out from them and extending back to the rcot of the vine. "The end of these should be cut back, leaving only two buds on each lateral cane, one for the purpose of creating wood growth, the other to produce fruit growth. This end clipping of the grape vine assists Nature to con- serve its energy in such a way that there is no waste of vitality to support a weod or fruit growth that is not strong enough to be useful to the vine either in a hardy wood grow th or a pro- ductive fruit growth. Cutting off the surplus growth concentrates all the energy of the vine to the two buds, which is sufficient to produce both wood and fruit growth. If the cane was cut back to the one bud, it would produce a strong wood growth but the fruit wouid be lacking. If it shculd be cut back to three or more buds it would have the effect of scattering its forces so that neither the wood growth nor the fruit growth would reach a very high standard. 76 THE TAYLOR-SYSTEM OF PRUNING If there are suckers or wild growth springing up from the roct of the vine, cut them off during the summer months. They are of no_use to the vine and they are drawing as much vitality from the root as the useful part of the vine. CUTTING GRAPE VINES TO A. HEADING. If it is desired to cut grape vines to form a heading, after the first year’s growth, cut off all the lateral canes, except the strongest one and then cut it back from 6 to 12 inches from the ground, using judgment as to the height that is desired to start the heading of the vine from the ground. The second year chcose from three to five of the strongest canes to form the head of the vine, and cut these canes back to two buds. Leave only the two buds on each cane, one being for wood growth and the other for fruit growth. This system of choosing the strongest canes and cutting them back to two buds should be used every year during the ie of thevine.-Tais will perpetuate the growth of the vine and if grape growers wiil adhere strictly to this system of cutting the canes back to two buds, I am sure they will be well repaid. The proper time for pruning grape vines is during the months of December and January. In the Eastern states, where the climate is severe, this system of pruning can be followed with success, but the vines should be lightly covered with straw after the pruning. It is best to use cuttings from a wild grape vine that grows in the States of Missouri or Illinois for the purpose of setting. Their nature is strong enough to overcome the phylloxera, which destroys so many of the cther varieties some time during their life. The nurseries use these varieties of cuttings for the stock and any variety of grape vine can be grafted on to it. It is termed resistant vine for phylloxera. This will be useful knowledge to the grape grower wne wants to start his own nursery stock. The life of grape vines that have been neglected and are dy- ing at the ends can be renewed by using the system of cutting back to two buds and cutting out the suckers. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING te Grape vines should be well sulphured. The proper time of the year is just after they have dropped their blossoms and the little grapes are beginning to form. This sulphvring is to pre- vent mildew. AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO SULPHUR. Take a gunny sack and put about a quart of sulphur in it. Shake the sulphur through the sack onto the vines. This should be done early in the morning while the dew is still on the vines, as the moisture aids in retaining the sulphur. Sulphur the vines three times, with an interval of abcut five days between each application. Su Iphur also strengthens the grape vines as well as being a preventative for mildew. 78 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF ERUNING COEEACE A meee Fruit Growing in the Eastern States INCE ‘starting to write this book; 1 made a_ trip) Hast; making several stops en route in the different states throughout the South, East and Middle West. I wished to investigate the nature of the soil, the climatic conditions and the principles of pruning trees suitable to bring forth the best in the life of a tree under the existing conditions there. I found thousands of acres of land in the southern states that could be utilized to a very profitable advantage through fruit growing by adopting the same system that is given in this book. ‘There is enough similarity of climatic conditions to use the same system of pruning as we do in California. In the southeastern states irrigation is not necessary. The home market would sup- port quite a fruit growing industry, in that section, The season for pruning trees in the southern states is not as long as in California. Fruit growers should try to study the life of a tree enough to familiarize themselves with the season when the sap of the tree is restful, not active either in its upward or downward course. The eastern and middle-west states can apply the same sys- tem, but they have a much shorter period of pruning than Cali- fornia or the South. It is not advisable to prune when the soil is freezing or when it is severely cold weather, and the trees should not be cut after the saps have begun their upward course in the spring of the year. It is likewise not advisable to cut trees in the fall of the year befcre the cold weather. That leaves a very short season Im the spring of the year that is favorable for pruning a tree to bring out the best that is in it. This time usually ranges from 3 to 10 days. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING @ SAN JOSE SCALE. I found many fruit growers of the East very much discour- aged with fruit growing through the affection of the trees by San Jose scale. They have been using lime and sulphur but it has not proved successful. I recommend a solution made of caustic soda, proportioned 6 lbs. to one hundred gallons of wa- ter. The best time to apply this remedy is in the fall of the year before the weather turns cold. e