IN VOREIGN LANDS

\\

TEN YEARS' WILD SPOETS

IN

FOREIGN LANDS

........•»• »• • - * -

TEN YEARS' WILD SPORTS

IN

FOREIGN LANDS

TT^AVELS IN THE EIGHTIES

BY

H. W. SETON-KARR, F.R.G.S., &c.

AUTHOR OF " SHORES AND ALPS OF ALASKA," AND A " HANDY GUIDE-BOOK TO THE

JAPANESE ISLANDS"

LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL

LIMITED

«,«, l88q

MICRQFORMED BY

SERVICES
DATE S£P J « J992

LONDON :

PRINTED BY J. 8. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED,
CITY ROAD.

PREFACE.

THE exploration or adventure, which I have included
in this volume of my travels, will at least serve the
purpose of comparing the different countries described
from a sporting point of view, from the fact of their
having been the experience of a single individual,
within the short period of a decade, and partly in
the intervals of a military service which included
a campaign. If from a literary point of view the
chapters appear to be of varying, and I hope increas-
ing merit, that fact must be ascribed to the different
epochs at which they were written. Some have been
condensed from my contributions to certain periodicals
with the kind permission of the Editors, such as those
of Land and Water, The Alpine Journal, and The Field.
I can at least claim for them the advantage of strict
fidelity to fact, and of having been mostly penned
upon the spot.

CONTENTS

PA09

I. IN NORWAY 1

II. IN SARDINIA AND CORSICA . . . . 11

III. IN SWEDEN . . . . . . . 35

IV. IN LAPLAND 49

V. IN CANADA . . . 94

VI. IN THE EOCKY MOUNTAINS . . . .109

VII. IN MOUNT ATHOS . . . . .140

VIII. IN ALASKA. ....... 157

IX. IN ALASKA 174

X. IN FINLAND .194

XL IN FINLAND 210

XII. IN KASHMIR . 237

XIII. IN INDIA 260

XIV. IN BRITISH COLUMBIA 269

XV. IN PERSIA . 310

TEN YEARS' WILD SPORTS
FOREIGN LANDS;

OR, TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

SPORT AND TRAVEL IN NORWAY.

Salmon Fishing- at Baeverdal — Sea -fishing— Red Deer still -hunting on the
Island of Hitteren — A lucky Stag — Another Misadventure — Mosquitoes
• — Trout Fishing on the Flats — How we sent Venison home — Small-
game Shooting — Securing a Hind under Difficulties — Deer on the Island
of Tusteren — An Adventure in Trondhjem.

ON arrival at Christiansund we exchanged ourselves
and belongings from the good ship Tasso into a steam-
launch called Lincoln, which we had hired for 18 kr.
to take us to a river called the Baeverdal, which was
reached late in the evening after a few hours' steam-
ing, on the 25th of July. I had just left Sandhurst
and expected to be " gazetted" in October and receive
Her Majesty's Commission in a line battalion. Be-
sides hoping to catch a good many salmon we had also
undertaken, on behalf of a friend, to endeavour to
settle a long-standing dispute between him and some
of the native proprietors of the river over an old fish-
ing contract. The fir-clad mountains were mirrored
in the still waters of the little fiord, which became
gradually more contracted as we proceeded. After
we had continued blowing our whistle for some time
we at length succeeded in attracting attention, and
a Norwegian put off from shore in a diminutive boat

B

2 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

which soon landed us with our numerous boxes and
cases of provisions.

Seated in the midst of all this luggage was to be
seen our "tolk," or interpreter, whom we had named
" Ferguson," after Mark Twain's courier, for he owned
an unpronounceable Norwegian name. Carts and car-
rioles having been summoned we soon arrived at the
farmhouse where strangers were usually received. It
happened that certain wedding festivals were in pro-
gress, which we wisely declined to participate in,
knowing how much beer and " aquavit " we should be
expected to swallow, for the tossing and heaving we
had sustained on the rolling German Ocean caused us
an imaginary sensation that the solid earth itself was
still moving like a vessel beneath us. Two hours
later my friend was rushing along the bank of the
Baeverdal trying to keep up with a salmon at the end
of his line which was making for some rapids, and next
moment I had the pleasure of gaffing a fish for one
of the most skilful fishermen who ever threw a fly.
It was a fourteen-pounder, and, curiously enough, the
heaviest of any of the forty-six fish we landed during
the next four weeks. My companion kept to the fly
the whole time. After landing eighteen fish during
the first fortnight, the river fell and he scarcely moved
another fish afterwards. I therefore became an ex-
ponent of the use of the worm as bait, and proved its
superiority under certain conditions by capturing the
remaining twenty-eight. The following will show
what I mean. It was customary with us to leave off

SPORT AND TRAVEL IN NORWAY. 6

fishing on Saturday evening at six, when the Norwegian
Sabbath commences, and to fish again on Sunday even-
ing at six, when it ends. This usually took place in the
best pool on the river, close to the house, in presence of
the greater portion of the inhabitants, numbering some
fourteen souls. One Sunday my friend, after trying
the whole pool twice carefully without raising a fish,
turned and spoke jocularly in Norwegian. " The next
performer will now oblige the company with a worm."
In a few minutes I had taken two salmon from the
same pool.

Our best day on the hills above the house gave us
eight and a half brace of ryper or ptarmigan, shot by
walking them up without dogs. After these tramps
we generally spent the next day in a boat on the
fiord, when fifty whiting-pollack were often brought
back, besides cod and whiting, and one or more
white-throated or red-throated divers, which were
carefully skinned. My fishing line was once broken
by a large fish which had seized the bait, immediately
after which my companion had a bite and wagered it
was the same fish. Hauling the line in we found an
enormous cod at the end with my broken line dang-
ling from his mouth.

On August 1st we visited a small lake among the
mountains, one of the sources of our river, and caught
fifteen trout in half an hour weighing almost exactly
three-quarters of a pound apiece, besides shooting
some ducks. We walked back for some miles in
heavy rain and made up our minds that it was more

4 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

fatiguing to walk in rainy than in fine weather. The
day after the rain I hooked nine fresh-run salmon in
one small pool near the sea, gaffing and landing five.
One day, while crossing a steep face of rock, I slipped
with rubber boots on and fell into a deep pool in the
river, laden with a heavy bag of brown trout. I
recovered my rod from the bottom of the pool next
day, having been obliged to let it sink in my efforts
to reach the opposite bank by swimming.

After quitting Baeverdal I joined a friend, son of
the Hon. Mr. Justice Denman, at Christiansund, on the
Tasso, which landed us on the long flat island of
Hitteren, on which we had leased from some farmers
the right of shooting red deer over their land. Nor-
wegian red deer have generally finer horns and are
heavier than Scotch red deer, one having been killed
by my brother on the small island of Tusteren, a short
distance to the south of Hitteren, weighing when
cleaned nearly thirty stone. The tolk " Ferguson"
was sent round by a rough cart road to Strom, while
we walked across the island to the same place to the
hospitable roof of old Egersen. Next day a note from
our interpreter arrived, written in very bad English,
asking for more ponies, and stating that he "tank
plenty bandy up de hill/' He meant trouble, not
brandy. At Strom we agreed that whatever foreign
matters might be present in the milk and fladbrod
that the interior of a boiled egg must necessarily be
uncontaminated.

On the 31st of August we walked to a small hut

SPORT AND TRAVEL IN NORWAY. 5

called Stromsdal, which had been built for deerstalk-
ing purposes, packing up our belongings on ponies, and
next day megot tidlig, before daybreak, we were " still-
hunting," or creeping silently through the woods on
the chance of coming on a stag. I had handed my
rifle to the Norwegian who was with me to hold for a
moment, and unknown to me he had moved the safety
bolt, rendering the trigger immovable. In a few
moments we suddenly came upon a Krone yort, one of
the most magnificent stags I ever saw, browsing
quietly within twenty yards of us in an open glade of
the forest, so noiselessly had we approached. Over
what followed I draw a veil, for the remembrance is
painful, the struggle with the safety bolt with cold
hands, the crash in the underwood, and — he was gone.

Yet once again he was seen. P had just

arrived and was out early. Having passed through
a wood, he was ascending an incline to obtain a view
of a hollow beyond. At this moment his rifle, which
was resting on his shoulder, from some unknown
cause went off, and this same stag, so the Norwegian
declared, was seen making tracks in the dim distance,
having been alarmed by the report of the rifle, which
was a single-barrelled one, nor was there time to
reload. My friend declares he was carrying the
weapon <• at the slope," and that nothing was in
contact with the trigger. Nor was the third of our
trio left without mishaps, for on one occasion a car-
tridge missed fire, and on another the mechanism of
the trigger went wrong at a critical moment. After

6 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

this the animal shifted his quarters and was not seen
on our shooting ground again, though we never
ceased to hope that his head might grace one of our
ancestral halls, and so he may still be roaming over
the barren lands and through the forests of Hitteren,
unharmed.

During August it had rained every day, and it is
worthy of remark that the 1st of September was
cloudless, and hardly any rain fell during the month.
Consequently it was too dry for wood- stalking. A
few days later we left for another stalking-hut called
Varli. The luggage on this occasion was dragged
across the hills on sledges, though there was no snow
on the ground. By this method much heavier loads
can be moved by one pony than if they were
" packed." The mosquitoes rendered the first night
here one of agony and made sleep impossible. I have
rarely seen them in greater numbers since, even in
Lapland or the backwoods of Canada. "We found
ourselves compelled to return to Strom immediately
without attempting to hunt. But after a rainstorm
we came back once more and found these pests less
numerous than before. When not after the deer, for
we each took our turn stalking, I usually fished for
trout on what were known as " the flats," or barren
swampy ground covered with innumerable small lakes
and streams. One evening I came to a lake where
the trout were congregated at one end. I had not
hitherto done much, but without moving five yards I
caught seventy-five, averaging half-a-pound apiece.

SPORT AND TRAVEL IN NORWAY. 7

As darkness was coming on, and I was sufficiently
burdened for a tramp of some miles back to camp, I
thought it prudent to stop fishing, otherwise I might
have caught far more than I could carry. Fishing
occasionally at odd times I caught altogether five
hundred trout in three months.

On the 18th of September we packed and sent away
six haunches of venison, separately done up in crates,
to six different friends at six different places in the
United Kingdom. Not long after this my friends
left for home. After a stormy passage of more than
double the usual length, they found on landing at
Hull that in some inexplicable way the whole of the
venison, weighing some twenty stone perhaps, had
reached the same fortunate recipient. Embarrassed
with so much meat, he was yet filled with admiration
of the generosity of the sender, and of Norway as a
game preserve. Every one within ten miles had
venison for dinner for days after. It was supposed that
the labels bearing the addresses were, with the one
exception, washed off by rain or by some storm in the
German Ocean.

On the 25th of October, snow and ice covering the
ground, I also crossed the island like my companions,
on my way home, after having shot quite a number
of woodcock and blackgame, which had become plenti-
ful on the commencement of the cold weather. On
my way I shot a hind for food. When first I saw
her she was feeding, and although up wind soon
became conscious of my presence, and ran behind the

8 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

trunk of a tree, from which she gazed for a considerable
time in the direction in which I was crouching with-
out daring to move. She then became convinced that
some danger was threatening her and started off, but
stopped once more for an instant just on the crest of a
hill, as deer often do, giving me time for a fortunate
shot in the neck. As this occurred on what was not
our ground, and as the steamer was to pass early the
following morning, I felt in considerable difficulties
how to secure the venison. Having struck upon the
little harbour where the steamers call, more by good
luck than anything else, just before dark, I fortu-
nately found one of our own men from Strom there
with the sledge in which he had brought my luggage,
and by promising him a share of the venison I induced
him to accompany me about midnight, with the sledge,
and to promise not to mention the fact to the others.
After a long search we at length succeeded in finding
the quarry, which I had covered with boughs of trees
to keep off birds of prey.

We might have been spared the trouble, as old
Christopher did not call me in time either for this or
the next steamer the following morning. A terrible
revenge was wreaked upon him for the same offence
on another occasion by two sportsmen, for they blew
him up with gunpowder placed at the back of the grate.
It seems that they had both been seized with the same
idea, and, unknown to each other, had both placed
powder there. The result was an explosion that kept
the family occupied for some days in a series of minor

SPORT AND TRAVEL IN NORWAY.

surgical operations of extracting bits of coal from his
posterior person. At this time of year the belling of
the stags was continuous. By means of " calling" or
imitating the sound they make, one of the largest
stags ever shot on the island had been obtained (I
believe by my friend, Admiral W. E. Kennedy). Num-
bers of deer had died during the preceding winter
(1880) and their carcases were constantly found on
our shooting ground, but especially on the east coast
of the island.

Not knowing how to occupy my time till the next
steamer sailed, I took a boat and rowed over to the
proprietor of the island of Margaree, whom I .found
employed in frothing-up in a tub the blood of a cow
they were killing, for the purpose of making cakes.
He wanted 10 kr. to beat the island for us in search of
grouse or ryper, which extortionate demand I refused,
but sent " Ferguson " ashore to make inquiries, who
presently came back and reported that such a thing as
a ryper had hardly ever been seen on the whole
island.

On my way to England I stayed three days on
Tusteren. On the first day no one could be got to
go with me, as they said the last Englishman walked
so fast that he had even tired out the blacksmith. On
the third day, after driving a deep-wooded valley
where we had heard a stag belling and seen tracks in the
snow, and which being sunless was unbearably cold,
nine stags were reported to have gone over the fyeld.
This I hardly credited, as we had beaten the whole

10 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

over twice, but was compelled to ascribe it to a desire
on the part of the inhabitants to please by inventing
an agreeable fiction.

I must describe one other adventure in Norway.
I had just returned from a river called the Orkla, and
was in bed in an hotel in Trondhjem with a cold. My
interpreter, a useless fellow whom I had just paid off as
not requiring his services any longer, had previously
informed me that a farmer in the valley of the Orkla
had telegraphed to the Politikammer or Constabulary
that he had not received a sufficient sum for the hire
of his pony. I found on calling, that no such tele-
gram had ever been sent. My presence had been
required for purposes of identification, as soon after
the landlord, knocking at the door, announced that
" five policemen " wished to speak with me. Secure
behind the rampart of my eiderdown coverlet I bade
him show them upstairs, and in clattered three of the
police with the sworn interpreter and the town clerk of
Trondhjem. Some portentous-looking official papers
were unrolled and read aloud, which informed me that
I was required to pay a thousand kroners or suffer
arrest. I had been mistaken for another Englishman
who had made a contract with some of the Orkladal
farmers for the salmon fishing in their river, and
owing to their continuing to use nets, contrary to the
stipulation, had thrown over the whole arrangement.

On my return to England I received a telegram at
Hull ordering me to join the Berkshire Eegiment at
Gibraltar.

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA.

Fever — Cagliari — Rough Weather — Terranova — Tortoli — Lanusei — We
start on a Hunt for Moufflons— Camp — Driving the Game— Unruly
Natives— The Rope Trick— Return to Cagliari— Earl of Mayo— Game

Laws — A Successful Chase — Trout Fishing in the Flumendosa

Antiquities of Sardinia — Salt Lake Fisheries— Snipe Shooting— Oristano
— An Amateur Sculptor — Tunny Fishery — Wine — Mullet Fishery —
Corsica— Shooting — Sea Fishing.

THE Island of Sardinia suffers from the stigma of a bad
name. In the time of the Eomans it was held to be
one of the unhealthiest of their colonies. Cicero writes
to his brother, who, for his sins, was located in the
north of the island: "Take care of your health;
although it is winter, remembering that it is Sardinia."
It is the same now. The tourist who tells such of his
friends as know the tradition about Sardinia that he is
going thither will be advised to make his will before
he sets forth, and to prepare to be carried off by the
" intemperie " (as the fever is called by the Sards)
within a week or two after his arrival.

But, in truth, it is only in summer and autumn that
the lowlands of the island can be called unhealthy, and
even then it is more salubrious than many parts of
Italy, and year by year with cultivation, drainage, and
the planting of eucalypti in the marshes the country is
improving.

Cagliari, the capital in the south, is quite charming,
for its sea view across the gulf towards the mountains
of Pula, for the boldness of its rocky site, for its ancient
sepulchres in the neighbourhood, its museum of anti-

12 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

quities (including a multitude of Sard idols), for its
delightful public gardens, and its ancient Eoman
amphitheatre, carved out of the solid rock, facing the
sea.

One of the curiosities of Cagliari is its saline, or
shallow salt-water pools, used for the extraction of
the national supply of salt. The salt itself is stacked
in portly pyramids below the town, bordering the
" stagni," and the convicts, in their red caps and striped
cotton pants and blouses, may be seen laboriously
towing heavy barges of this salt by the canal into the
sea, whence it is shipped to Spain and elsewhere.

The other chief towns of Sardinia are Sassari, in the
north-west; Iglesias, in the south-west; Oristano,
among the marshes in the west ; Nuoro, in the centre,
among the mountains; and Ozieri. At Iglesias the
lead mines are very extensive.

"We left Cagliari one Monday in February, 1884,
in a coasting steamer for Tortoli, about one hundred
miles distant, on the east coast of the island, where
we hoped to arrive about midnight. The party con-
sisted of M. de Casanuova, Mr. Hore, and myself.
Soon after starting, however, a pretty stiff gale came
on, before which we ran, not unpleasantly, till we
found peace round the point of Capo Carbonaro, the
south-east corner of Sardinia. We were informed by
the captain that, unless the wind dropped or shifted
to the south, he would be unable to land us. Although
we held a special "prolongation" from the prefet, we
had four clear days only for "la chasse aux moufflons."

THE ISLANDS OP SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 13

"We were accompanied by a Sard interpreter named
Meloiri, who besides his native language, namely Sard,
knew but a few words of Italian, and described him-
self as " gran cacciatore e preparatore d'animali
diversi." The wind obstinately continuing to blow
we found ourselves next morning at Terranova, hav-
ing passed our destination without having been able
to disembark. As we were passing Tortoli during the
night, I went upon deck and found the steersman
gesticulating, and altogether it was clear that " some-
thing was up." At last I found that the wind had
extinguished the binnacle light. I lost no time in
bringing assistance, when, upon re-lighting the lamp,
the ship's head was found to be pointing north-west,
or nearly straight ashore, with land not more than
four or five miles distant.

At the little inn called " Locanda FAvvenire," at
Terranova, we passed the time pleasantly enough, ex-
cepting during the night, when some late arrivals
commenced thumping the floors with what sounded
like ponderous brickbats, apparently annoyed at find-
ing the best apartments already occupied ; finally we
left in another steamer of the Florio Company for
Tortoli once more, which was reached at midnight,
after calling at Orosei and Siniscola. We then drove
for two miles to the village, while some bullock carts
were hired for eight francs to take the luggage on to
Lanusei ; and, after sleeping in an inn for a couple of
hours, we left at six o'clock in the morning for the
same place in a small diligence which goes thither

14 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

daily, taking five hours. "We found the village most
picturesquely situated upon the side of a mountain,
about two thousand feet above the sea. "We were
kindly received by the prefet and by an English-
man living here in connection with some mining
enterprise.

Meanwhile, as we intended starting as early as pos-
sible in the morning for our camping ground among
the mountains, arrangements had been made with the
hunters and beaters to pay them five francs a day for
each horse and man, the man to beat if necessary, and
two francs a day for a man without a horse.

After great deliberations, on the following morning
the men, most of whom were collected outside the inn
where we had taken up our quarters, demanded five
francs a day each, independently of the horses. Their
food and wine of course we had to provide ; and this
for twenty men for three days, as well as our own
and the baggage, had been packed upon eight horses.
Their demand, of course, was purposely made when
everything was ready for starting, while we were
already two hours behind time. Acting upon advice,
and without showing the least impatience, we pro-
ceeded to remove the loads from the horses ourselves,
and to declare our intention of returning, offering
however, four francs. We also offered five francs to
each man if a moufflon was killed.

This at once had the desired effect, and things hav-
ing been amicably arranged we proceeded on our
way, reaching our destination the same evening.

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 15

The spot we chose for our camp was a lovely one, in
a valley lying east of a curious tower of rock on the
summit of a mountain, resembling a ruined castle on
a gigantic scale, marked " Perdaliana " in the maps,
shut in by steep hills on three sides, which were
clothed with myrtles, arbutus, and other plants. Our
tent was shadowed by a huge ilex with charred trunk
and gnarled roots. Having deposited the baggage
safely, and left three men in charge of the animals, we
proceeded to drive for moufflons. For this purpose
about twelve guns were placed along a ridge that we
had passed en route, about fifty or sixty yards apart, the
Sards giving themselves the most likely places, while
five men made a circuit, and turning when about seven
hundred yards distant, walked back towards us, yel-
ling at the top of their voices. This drive was pro-
ductive of no results. We then had three more beats
in different directions, near the same spot, but nothing
was seen.

As we advanced through a glade where the evergreen
oaks were exceedingly thick, about half a mile from
camp, and close to the head of the valley where we
were to begin the last beat for the day, we came upon
three old male moufflons, but several of the men being
in the direct line I was unable to fire. This was the
first sight we had obtained in Sardinia of these wild
sheep, of which during the next three days we saw
nearly fifty. I believe these interesting animals may
be seen in England. Several have been sent to the
Prince of Wales by H.M. Consul at Ajaccio, while at

16 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Monte Carlo some are in captivity, young moufflons
being frequently caught in April.

During the evening the men amused themselves by
shouting impromptu solos in turn before a huge fire,
some laudatory of ourselves, some possibly otherwise.
Their chief theme seemed to be that the Englishmen
next year might return and pay them for another hunt
and give more wine.

The wine and bread, of which very large quantities
had been brought, it was found impossible to apportion
without causing a mutiny. The amount was intended,
and was amply sufficient, to have lasted three days.
But what with camp followers, who made their appear-
ance towards night, and the drunken proclivities of
the remainder, horses had to be sent several times for
fresh loads of wine and provisions from Lanusei.

Next morning the sun had long been above the
horizon when we left camp for the summit of the hill
above.

On reaching the ridge a wonderful panorama was
seen spread below. Long rows of cliffs of basaltic
formation were crowned with forests of evergreen oak.
The intense clearness of the air made any attempt at
judging the distance hopeless, and brought into con-
trast the intense black shadows under the ilex-trees
and the light colour of their foliage. During this
beat, which was the best we had, I saw a great
number of moufflons. But during the whole of our
operations an immense amount of time was wasted in
endless and incomprehensible discussions among the

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 17

natives. At last ten guns were posted round the head
of the valley, the wind blowing straight across, and thus
giving the game scent of those on the windward side.

In about an hour and a half the yells of five beaters
commenced, all being apparently at the bottom of the
valley at first. Soon a large herd of moufflons ran down
into a wood at the bottom, and back past the beaters,
who were doing their work very badly, and were un-
armed. Five other moufflons came straight up the
side of the hill towards one of the Sards, who fired
and missed, causing three to turn down again.

"What appeared to astonish our Sards more than
anything else, on the following morning, was the fact
of our bathing in the stream, the external application
of water (or internal, when wine is to be had) being
distasteful to them. Being by this time thoroughly
convinced that more annoyance than sport was to be
obtained from these drives, the beaters beating worse
each successive time, all four of us, including Meloni,
remained behind in camp, while the natives, after
eating, retired to renew the chase, and were successful
in shooting a red deer, which was a welcome supply
of meat.

In the evening we instructed Meloni to inform
them that if an Englishman was bound with cords,
however securely, he would immediately free himself.
I was then fastened to the roots of an ilex-tree, some
distance from the camp fire, by hide thongs, after
which they all made their way slowly back, leaving
me, as they imagined, a prisoner ; but to their amaze-

c

18 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

ment they found that their supposed prisoner (who
had frequently performed the "rope trick" before) had
managed to reach the fire in advance of them, and
was calmly seated in front of it, apparently buried in
meditation. Never shall we forget the looks of horror,
by the light of the blazing logs, on the faces of that
crowd of ruffians, at what they thought a supernatural
translation. Next morning we quitted Perdaliana.
After four or five hours through a lovely valley we
reached Gairo, and were put up by the mayor. He gave
us dinner, which he cooked mostly himself, after some
delay, which was compensated for by an astonishing
number of courses, and enormous oranges from Mitis.
On the opposite side of the valley, in which flows a
tributary of the Flumendosa Eiver, is perched a re-
markably situated village named Alasso. Eventually,
after an exceedingly cold journey of twenty-four
hours, in a diligence, we reached Cagliari once more.
The only event that afforded us any amusement by
the way was a certain native on the outside of the
conveyance, who gravely seated himself upon a bag
belonging to a middle-aged priest, the owner being in
the interior of the coach, and judging by the loud
crackings that ensued was committing serious injury
to the contents. When we drew his attention to the
fact he replied, "Far niente," as much as to say, "No
matter." We subsequently found that Meloni had
given half our venison to one of the consuls, and had
taken the rest himself, all of which we thought proper
to cause to be returned to us.

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 19

During this tour in 1884 I was thus unsuccessful
in obtaining a head of one of those wily and much-
sought-for animals, the moufflons or wild sheep pecu-
liar to Corsica and Sardinia, excepting one presented
by a native hunter.

Next time, however, in 1885, in company with the
Earl of Mayo, the expedition was a successful one as
regards these peculiar animals. It would be desirable
to begin at the beginning and describe how the mouf-
flon is to be found, and where, as on these sort of
expeditions the start is often the most difficult part.
First of all, moufflons are only to be found in any
numbers in the eastern and central portion of the island
— Gennargentu and neighbouring ranges. During
the day they keep themselves concealed in the woods,
which consist mostly of ilex or evergreen oak, or in
the maquia, which, averaging four feet, completely
conceals them. The only chance of finding them in
order to stalk them is when they feed at sunrise. The
country is excessively dry and stony, and the animals
themselves are wilder than the average Eocky Moun-
tain sheep. The usual and most successful way of
hunting these animals, then, is by driving, which, to
make sure of killing, requires from fifteen to twenty
guns. One of the large wooded valleys is chosen
which lie around Gennargentu, and the guns line one
of the side ridges, and more especially the crest above,
should the wind serve, for the moufflon is in the habit,
when disturbed, of seeking higher ground. Never
more than four and often only three men enter the

c 2

20 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

valley on the opposite side to beat, and make up for
small numbers by great noise. All this makes the
game very wild, as often as not they break back, and
the chance of any particular gun getting a shot is
very small. The largest bag I ever heard of, was a
party of twelve guns getting four sheep, six deer, and
some boars in five days. Eed deer are found on the
same ground as the moufflons, and usually break down-
hill. No fallow deer are found near Gennargentu.
These used to be found in the south-west corner of
the island, near Pula.

October is the best time to hunt the moufflons, but
is not so healthy as December. After October, in
the mountains, it freezes every night, though the
days are warm.

The game laws in the southern half of Sardinia
(the province of Cagliari) differ from those in the
northern (the province of Sassari). In the former all
shooting ends on the first day of February. In the
latter partridge may not be killed after the last day of
December, but everything else up to the end of March.
The best moufflon ground lies in the southern pro-
vince. As a matter of fact, the game laws are not
enforced. The greater part of the moufflons are killed
in April (when they have young) by the shepherds, who
all carry guns, and who remain near the coast with
their flocks during the winter. Pigs — semi- wild, and
resembling the wild boar, which also abounds — are
found all the year round in the mountain forests, and
are frequently shot in mistake for the latter. Snipe

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA.

21

are abundant in marshy localities. Twice with three
guns we have killed over eighty couple in a few hours.

In Corsica the game laws are much more strictly
observed than in Sardinia ; but every year the
authorities are becoming more strict in the latter
island with regard to their observance. Except in
the towns, and with regard to exportation, the regula-
tions as to the killing of wild animals are, and always
will be, but a dead letter, and for this reason, that in the
mountains and smaller villages almost all the natives
carry arms. In addition to the ordinary licence,
there is one to carry arms for purposes of self-
defence, and with or without this licence almost
every one goes armed. The labourer going to his
vineyard to work in the morning carries with him
his gun, for the private feuds are innumerable, like
the "vendetta " in Corsica between individuals; and
between certain villages there is much ill-feeling.

As in Corsica, so in Sardinia, there are a few out-
laws, who live mostly in the mountains. There is
nothing to be feared from them. On one occasion
when the English servant, on another when I myself
was alone in camp, parties of rough-looking men
made an inspection of the tents. The first-mentioned
presented a six-shooter at them, upon which they
made off. On no occasions should large sums of
money be shown. Though there are " black sheep "
everywhere, the Sards may truly be characterized as
quiet, hospitable, and gentlemanly.

On our arrival at Cagliari from Tunis licences had

22 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

to be taken out, and in the evening we left for
Tortoli, on the east coast of Sardinia, by the small
coasting steamer, from which place the Syndic of
Tortoli kindly sent us on in his own carriage to
Lanusei. At this place the Syndic (Cav. Gaviano)
had been particularly obliging on a previous occasion,
and Lord Mayo now presented him with a magnificent
carpet from Kairwan, the sacred city of Tunis.

Most of the camp furniture required can be bought
in Lanusei. The nearest place for moufflons from
Lanusei is the forest of Tricoli, but, being equally
near to the town of Gairo, it is much hunted. This
forest lies west of Lanusei, and shortly before our
arrival a herd of upwards of forty of the wild sheep
were seen.

On the following day a start was made with seven
horses and several men towards Perdaliana, the extra-
ordinary rock previously mentioned and forming,
next to Gennargentu, the most striking object in the
landscape of this part of Sardinia, and from which
the ancient Phoenicians must have copied their
"nurhags," with the ruins of which Sardinia
abounds. Near this, camp was pitched, and, as
we had determined not to drive or beat the country
at first, the men were sent back to Lanusei with the
exception of two. As I mentioned in a previous
letter, they are excessively unruly, and threatened
to have a hunt on their own account before they
returned, which we had considerable difficulty in pre-
venting them from doing.

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 23

"Next day at sunrise the mountain of Perdaliana
was ascended and carefully surveyed. During our
absence from the camp a small herd of about eight
moufflons passed within fifty yards of it, pursued by
dogs belonging to some hunters of Gairo, who came
up shortly after. The moufflons stood for a moment
in a cluster while Bernardo, one of the men, fired at
them. The following day no moufflons were seen in
the morning, but at mid-day, with the assistance of
the dogs, some five or six were dislodged from a small
wood in a gulley to the east of the rock of Perdaliana,
and, later on, three more from the Samela and Sanougi
woods towards the west. Next day a Mr. "Wood, a
mining engineer, one of the few Englishmen resident
in Sardinia — with the exception of the officials of
the railway company, which is English — came from
Lanusei with a large number of beaters and dogs,
and the large wood of Letini was beaten, which lies
between Perdaliana and the Flumendosa Eiver, the
guns being on the ridge above the wood. Three red
deer broke down hill and crossed the Flumendosa,
followed by all the dogs, who returned soon after,
excepting a terrier, who came back next day.
Shortly afterwards three ram moufflons came and
stood in the maquia, near the Earl of Mayo, only
the splendid curved horns being visible. He secured
one of the ram moufflons with a shot which passed
through the spine, and subsequently through one
of the horns of the animal, which now decorate
the ancestral hall at Palmerstown. The remaining

24 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

two disappeared into the wood, and were not seen
again.

One of the chief attractions of the landscape round
Perdaliana is its intense solitude. From the mountain
summits not a single human habitation is visible, and
the only sign of life is the distant smoke of the char-
coal-burners' fires, who threaten soon to annihilate
the ancient forests altogether, with which at one time
there is no doubt the whole island was covered. The
mountains are cut and seamed with watercourses
and covered with cistus, myrtle, erica, globularia,
and arbutus, forming the maquia of Sardinia, and
the maquis of Corsica, and called by the Sards tufera,
leone, ilichi, murmuru, and murdegu. Most of the
deeper gulleys and all the valleys are filled with
dense woods of evergreen oak.

Our next move was to the guard-house of Mr.
Wood's lead and silver mine of Oreddu, half-a-dozen
miles from the hamlet of Yillanova Strasaile, on the
road from Lanusei to Nouro, and situated on the
Flumendosa Eiver, under the shelter of a steep hill,
wooded to the summit and visible from an immense
distance. Here it was even colder at night than
at Perdaliana, the rising sun revealing both dogs
and horses covered with hoar-frost.

The first day's work consisted in beating the wooded
gorge of Astilasso, high up under the snows of Gen-
nargentu, which was stated not to have been disturbed
for five months ; then a wooded valley farther west,
called Seugarguri, where Bernardo, who was posted

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 25

close to an affluent of the Flumendosa at the bottom,
succeeded in killing a hind. Next day's hunt con-
sisted of two beats,, both in the direction of Lanusei ;
the first a treeless rocky valley called Samatta-su-Leone,
and next, the wooded valley of Terralci. On the way
five of the wild sheep were started from the bed of a
stream, and from Samatta-su-Leone three went in the
wrong direction, pursued by the whole of the dogs.

The Fluinendosa and its affluents, as well as the
Coghinas, the Tertinia on the east coast, and most of
the other streams, swarm with trout, not large, but
excellent eating, and of which a small sackful (one
hundred and thirty) were easily caught with fly next
day in the Flumendosa, which, as before mentioned,
flows near the Orredu mine, and were taken into La-
nusei. Some days later I ascended Gennargentu,
sleeping at Lansenusa, a mine lower down the river,
where I expected to find a guard-house, but nothing
excepting the walls remained. Two Sards, brothers,
hired with the horses, made incessant difficulties, as
they wished to go to the Cantoniera of Bonamela,
whence in fine weather horses can be ridden to the
summit, but owing to the amount of snow on the north
side of the mountain, I knew from previous experience
on Monte Eotondo in Corsica that the ascent on that
side would be difficult. The mountain is usually
ascended from Laconi or Fonni on the west side. An
interesting and hitherto unattempted expedition would
be to follow the course of the Flumendosa, which takes
its rise from the snows of Gennargentu, to the sea at

26 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Miiravera. Owing to the nature of the country, it
would probably be impossible to use horses the first
part of the way. The start might be made from Aritzu,
reached from Laconi, or from Lanusei, reached by the
new road from Cagliari to Muravera, where the river
has lately washed away the large stone bridge. This
road as far as Monte Acuto passes through as fine
scenery as any road in the island — a narrow gorge with
grotesque rocks and tremendous granite precipices
covered with luxuriant vegetation of beech, larch, and
oak, and competing in grandeur with the gorges of the
Chiffa and of the Issa near Algiers, or even with the
famous Chabet-el-Akhira, also in Algeria, between
Bougie and Setif. Chirr a Castle, which is passed on
the road, seems quite unknown, unless mentioned by
General la Marmora in his great work upon Sardinia.
Below it, and in an inaccessible position on the face of the
cliff, are passages hewn in the rock, perhaps like the
Giants' Tombs (sepolturas de los gig antes), of Phoenician
origin. Of the latter there are but few visible in this
part of the island.

In the hundreds and thousands of " nuraghe," or
mysterious erections of stones, which belitter the
island, an imaginative man might see a superb supply
of ready-made fastnesses for rogues and vagabonds of
the brigand type. Whatever the first purpose of these
" nuraghe " (whether temples, or tombs, or sacrificial
altars, or fortresses), they stand now simply to puzzle
our wits. In the interior are invariably found cham-
bers, sometimes three stories in height. As we go

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 27

down to Cagliari by railway, dozens of their broken
towers are seen from the train. A herd of goats may
be browsing in the broad shadow of one of them.
Lounging against the low dilapidated entrance of
another may be seen two or three Sard shepherds,
bronzed like the stones of the nuraghe itself, under its
cloak of orange lichens, with their guns on their shoul-
ders, and their wiry little horses cropping the thistles
hard by. Or it may be a festa morning, and the nuraghe
on the skirts of the village (with a broad panorama
visible from it) are trysting-places for the lads in their
best goafs-hair jackets, or for the lasses in all their in-
herited bravery of gold chains and bodices of brocaded
satin.

The main salt lake fisheries of Sardinia are those of
Oristano and of Cagliari, though round the island are
a few smaller ones of the same description.

Bound the Gulf of Oristano are four large lakes, all
of which I visited ; but, as the fisheries are all con-
ducted on the same principle, a description of one,
Cabras, will suffice.

The town of Cabras was reached early one morning
in a broken-down conveyance — the best to be obtained
— with an order from Cav. Egisio Carta to his head
fisherman, Luigi Lioniglia; the distance from Oris-
tano being about five miles. A boat and men were
procured, with a Sard called Giovanni Loi, who, after
a great deal of trouble and exertion, would take no
further payment than a cigar. These lakes swarm
with wild fowl of all sorts, especially coots, and a few

28 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

flamingoes. They are tamer than at Cagliari, where
they are continually hunted. The natives never
shoot snipe, as they dislike getting wet, and also are
unable to hit them.

The fishery is situated on three streams, which con-
verge and flow from a lake into the sea. A mediaeval
tower has been converted into a dwelling, and around
it are the reed fish traps. Barriers of upright reeds,
with half-inch intervals, have been erected in various
positions, having doors, and suited to the varying
depth of water in the stream, the Tirse (which is one
of the largest Sardinian rivers), the water here being
brackish. The fish, as they descend, are admitted
through Y-shaped openings in the fence, placed at in-
tervals of ten feet, into large compartments, that are
capable of being closed when there are enough fish in-
side. The depth varies from 1 foot to 4 feet. In these
compartments the fish are either speared or netted by
fishermen wading in naked, or else are driven into a
smaller enclosure called the death-room (camera del
morte), whence they are extracted by hand or scoop
nets. There are yet smaller chambers than the camera
del morte, used when, owing to floods, there are but
few fish, about a yard square and with the usual funnel
to admit the fish, out of one of which I saw scooped
crabs (some edible), sardines, eels, soles, large prawns,
and a fish like the carp called lupo. Over each barrier
is a reed house for the guard or watcher. The sardines
fresh from the water resemble young herring. The
Cabras boats are quite peculiar, and resemble a shoe

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 29

more than anything else. They are rowed in the
English way, while the Cagliari rowers face the bows.
Farther south lies the S. Giusta Lake and fisheries,
and last of all, those of Mercedi, each with a village
peopled entirely with fisherfolk, by far the finest look-
ing of all the natives of Sardinia, the women being
comparatively handsome. The contrast between these
and the agricultural part of the population is very
remarkable.

The old Eoman city of Tharrus is within half a day's
ride of the town, and here the enterprising stranger
may well expect to pick up a few intaglios and numis-
matic treasures. Quite apart from more bulky archseo-
logical spoil, Tharrus contests with Pula and S. Antioco,
the honour of being the richest quarry of antique relics
in Sardinia, and the museums are full of inscriptions
and sculptuary from this old city by the sea.

Snipe may be got at Terranova, and near Musei, and
at Ardara, at which latter place I was accompanied by
a small French chasseur, who called his dog by blowing
a large horn for it, and applied to it the epithets,
" brigand " and " assassin," and afterwards fed it with
eggs.

Oristano is healthy all the year round ; but prior to
the completion of the aqueduct bringing water from
Bonarcado, on Monte Ferru, it was deserted in
summer. Even now the natives assert that eating
the larger and coarser of the grey mullet gives fever.

Oristano is not magnificent like Sassari, which in its
public buildings strives, with complete success, to

30 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

humble Cagliari, its rival for centuries ; but it is
full of old-world fragments. The girdle of its walls,
many centuries old, may still be traced among the
mud-built cottages which now surround its better
buildings. It has a pleasing cathedral, a surprising
number of old churches, and if any one should be
desirous of enjoying a hearty laugh, let them visit the

garden of Signor Yandolino C , just outside the

town. The landlord of the hotel insisted on taking
me there one afternoon. Close to the entrance is a
bust of Pio Nona (rot to — rotting away, as my guide
explained). The paths are lined with busts of Sar-
dinian celebrities of both sexes on pedestals, and
there are some of enormous size of the late King
Victor Emmanuel — on the whole the queerest speci-
mens of amateur modelling ever seen. An olive-
tree in the garden, called Elleonora's (the Guidichessa
of Arborea), measures twenty-two feet in circum-
ference round the trunk.

Before leaving the subject of sport in Sardinia, I
must mention the tunny fishing. This lasts from
early in May until the middle of June, though at the
northern fishery of Asmara, off Porto Torres, it is
protracted until the end of June. No one who enjoys
a little excitement should lose the chance of being
present at one of the slaughters, as they are called,
which take place on an average every other day
during the season. The three large fisheries are
those of Porto Scuso and Carloforte in the south,
Bosa off the west coast, and Asinara.

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 31

But for the man who does not care to go out to
sea for several miles in a little boat (a necessity at
Asmara) to view this sport, the Carloforte " tonnara "
may be recommended over the others. Here the net
is set between the mainland of Sardinia and the islet of
S. Pietro, about four miles to the west, and the inter-
vening water is often as calm as a small inland lake.
The ladies of Carloforte make pleasure parties for
the slaughter ; their husbands and brothers attend to
the sails and oars, while they sit gaily on every
available square foot of space in the boat, and, with
their parti- coloured parasols aloft, glide over this
summer sea to an accompaniment of songs.

And wine in Sardinia is so cheap ! That of Ogilas-
tra, which seems to me supreme, costs a penny a
pint, and a tumbler of luscious Muscat costs no more.

Trout abound in some of the mountain streams
both of Corsica and Sardinia — for instance, in the
Tavignano in the former, and in the Flumendosa in
the latter island.

Although the Corsicans assert that the finest sea
fishing grounds in the Mediterranean lie round Cor-
sica, yet larger catches than at any station round
this island are made in the vicinity of some of the
great salt lakes of Sardinia. I am writing this letter
from Cagliari, the capital of the latter island, where
enormous numbers of grey mullet are caught in
curiously-shaped traps placed in the openings that
connect the lake and the all but tideless sea together.
Long lines of flexible reeds are also to be seen stuck

32 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

firmly into the mud in the lake, with a line baited
with young mullet on which eels are caught. The
fish from this lake, and from the still more extensive
ones at Oristano, have made the fortunes of numerous
individuals. The Sard eel-spearers, in flat-bottomed
boats, in their picturesque dresses of black and white,
are an interesting sight.

In both islands a license to carry a gun is legally
necessary, though the native sportsmen rarely possess
the former. On my first arrival at Ajaccio in Corsica,
the landlord of the Hotel de P Europe secured for me
the services of a native chasseur ', who carried his gun
and my own through the crowded streets in perfect
disregard of the officials whose business it is to ask
for these permits de chasse, explaining after, with a
significant gesture, that no Corsican was ever asked
for one. This reckless sportsman was accompanied
by a spotted dog, which, during the day, killed a
hare, to his master's great delight. Most of the
land in the vicinity of Ajaccio is cultivated and
nominally preserved, though hardly any game is to be
found upon it owing to its being shot over by almost
every one possessing a gun. During our wanderings
that day, when near the high road, the sudden appear-
ance of a mounted official caused my friend to sink
down into the high grass, dragging me with him, till
the noise of the horse's heels had died away.

Even Ajaccio is not wholly free from Mediterranean
fever, to which the residents especially are more or
less subject. During the construction of a portion of

THE ISLANDS OF SARDINIA AND CORSICA. 33

the railway line to Bastia, the workmen suffered
severely until the planting a grove of Eucalyptus
globulus counteracted the miasmic exhalations. Cor-
sica is a land of strong wines and strong waters. The
wines from the interior are specially potent, while the
waters of Orezza should, in some cases, be taken only
by medical advice. Living, except in certain cases,
is most inexpensive — a dinner at Yivario for example,
near Corte, consisting of five courses and ,a bottle of
wine, cost me less than eighteenpence.

Poor as the Mediterranean is in its yield of fish,
good catches are made round Corsica, many of the
inhabitants being fishermen by trade. Most of the
larger fish are taken by long lines at night, and only
in certain places. A line that I put out in the bay
of Ajaccio one night, with fifty hooks carefully baited
with pieces of octopus, when visited early the follow-
ing morning, was found to have taken nothing but a
small conger.

A day may pleasantly be passed catching the
numerous elegantly and variously coloured fish with
which the rocks and shallows abound. One morning
in December I rowed across the bay. A wicker
basket filled with shrimps was sheltered under a seat
from the somewhat too powerful rays of the sun. On
reaching a long ridge of submerged rock we dropped
a heavy stone secured by three fathoms of rope.
Every crevice of rock or morsel of gorgeously-coloured
weed was visible through the clear water. Two long
cane rods, with each three yards of line, a yard of gut,

D

34 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and a medium- sized hook, with, a piece of lead as a
sinker, completed the outfit. Shrimps are soon put
on a hook. The only necessity was to cast as far as
possible, and let the bait sink. This was followed by
an instant nibbling. Not once was the same species of
fish landed twice in succession. I had just taken the
hook from the mouth of a small crimson and blue fish,
and was in the act of lifting into the boat one of the
very brightest pea-green colour from nose to tail, when
an exclamation from the boatman showed me that he
had hooked something unusual, which turned out a
31b. octopus, which we had great trouble in killing by
repeated stabs after it had explored every corner of the
boat — a squirming mass of arms each 18 in. long. A
species of small white fish may be caught in great
numbers in the harbours, but are not much esteemed
as food.

Young fish like whitebait, with immense quantities
of enormous sea- slugs, are frequently the only result of
careful hauls of the net. Pilchard, tunny, and an-
chovy, prawn, lobsters, red and grey mullet, turbot,
and other fish are taken in places round both islands.

"With regard to banditti or brigands no one need be
afraid of them in Corsica ; and the same might be said
with equal truth of its neighbour, Sardinia, where an
enforced sojourn in the mountains while an ear or some
other portion of anatomy is sent to one's friends as a
sample, with more to follow, is a thing unheard of at
the present time.

FLY-FISHINQ ON THE OSTBA DAL EIVER, SWEDEN.

Lake Siljan — Posting up the Ostra Dal — Trout -fishing at Sarna — A Native
Angler — A Surveyor — Fishing at Foskran — Successful Angling at
Helsjofors — Alone — A Maniac — Lake Rogon — Elk.

THE following account of a fortnight's travel in search
of sport upon the Ostra Dal Eiver will serve to show
that recommendations of sporting localities in guide-
books are often too vague to be of much practical
benefit until the angler discovers the particulars for
himself.

The text in question ran as follows, and would have
been correct with regard to the river of my choice,
had those words been added which are printed in
italics : — " Among the best waters for trout and gray-
ling are the Messna and Laagen, which fall into Lake
Mjosen, the Storsjo and Foemundsjo, (the highest por-
tions of) the Ostra Dal Elv and other streams falling
into Lake Siljan, in Sweden."

Lake Siljan is a large expanse of water situated
near the centre of southern Sweden, and boasting of
railway communication at its eastern extremity. The
Ostra and Westra Dal Eivers unite and form the Dal
Eiver, which joins the Gulf of Bothnia at Gefle.

We were at first quite without information as to
where the angling commenced, but soon learned that
pike abounded in the lake (Siljan) and that a few trout
could be caught with cross-lines, while the captain of

D2

36 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the steamer pointed out to us, among the cargo on board,
a barrel full of the most gigantic earth-worms I ever
beheld, being almost as long and thick as adders, for
the purpose of baiting night-lines. It was obviously
hopeless to attempt any angling in or near the lake
itself. The shores were somewhat densely populated
with villages, being moderately elevated, and partially
timbered with forests of pine.

From the western end we followed the Ostra Dal
Eiver by carriole along the post road, from the point
where it flows into the lake, for two whole days
without finding any angling worth our stopping for,
putting up the first night at Elvdal and the next at
Sarna, the last posting stage being a long one of thirty-
six miles from a hamlet called Osen.

Up to this point the Ostra Dal consists of a broad,
clear, shallow, rapid stream, containing pike, notwith-
standing several falls and rapids. At Sarna, in the
neighbourhood of some lakes formed by the river, the
best angling for trout and grayling was said to com-
mence.

Next morning we embarked in a boat upon these
lakelike stretches of the river, accompanied by the
landlord of the keskievari or skyutstation, also armed
with a rod and well-chosen flies mounted on fine gut.
A native sportsman has a boat and small fishing lodge
some distance down the valley, but otherwise the
banks of the stream are quite without human habi-
tation. But just where the river leaves the lakes
aforesaid is naturally a great fishing place from Sarna,

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN. 37

and the method used is to anchor in mid-stream with a
heavy stone tied to a long rope, and shift position
occasionally down the current by raising the stone
for a moment, and continuing the process as far as a
swift rapid some half mile lower down, the ascent of
which would be troublesome. The boat is then poled
up stream again and the process gone through once
more. Big trout are never caught here, and our bag
by the evening amounted to a little over forty trout
and grayling, mostly of diminutive dimensions. Most
of these, however, were caught in a tributary stream
which just at this point flows down from the north-
ward.

The next day we resolved to explore this stream
farther and ascertain whether higher up it might not
offer even better angling prospects. We, therefore,
made across the forests with a guide, with the idea of
striking upon it about ten miles higher up and mak-
ing our way down to the old spot once more, where
some falls and deep pools promised at any rate a
certain amount of fish. It became evident, however,
that pools were quite the exception, and that every
part was almost of equal depth, and equally fishable,
without any indication as to where fish might be lying
in such a wide area of angling water.

At last, a fine-looking pool was reached, which
yielded, to our surprise, only a couple of fish ; and a
short distance lower down another pool brought the
same result ; the explanation was not long in present-
ing itself, for we suddenly came face to face with an

TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

elderly native peasant almost as tall and attenuated
as the long rod he was bearing, accompanied by three
women, carrying fishing rods and a bag of worms,
which explained the unwillingness of the trout in rising
to the fly. He informed us that for twenty years he
had fished this stream, accompanying the remark with
a liberal pinch of snuff from a large horn box. Upon
this we said that after trying the next small pool we
should return to Sarna. Having thus overtaken and
passed these native anglers and being therefore enabled
to fish in water which they had not previously disturbed
with their worms and string, a trout or a grayling rose
to nearly every cast, until the sound of a heavy step
behind and the splash of a heavy line and a worm in
front of the flies we were manipulating informed us
that nothing more in the shape of sport could be
expected unless we could prevent this disagreeable
elderly peasant from scaring the fish in the remaining
part of the river. One might readily have judged,
from his facial expression, that to bid him remove
himself and his rod would have been the surest manner
of inducing him to remain just where he was, and thus
give us time to fish over the coveted piece ahead.

"Gabort!"

"Ya skall ga hvar jag vill," was the reply, as
plump fell the long horsehair line again in the eddy.
The stratagem had proved successful.

We had now remained long enough in the rustic
hamlet of Sarna.

The choice in continuing the journey lay between

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN. 39

descending the wild portion of the Osra Dal Elv,
partly by boat, as far as the falls, and afterwards on
foot to the main road, and thus returning once more
to civilisation ; and crossing the mountains into Nor-
way. We chose the latter alternative, and the next
day found us at Idre Kapell, the end of the landsvag,
or post road, and the commencement of the skogvag,
or track, which eventually dwindled away into nothing.
Near at hand on the north stands a solitary mountain,
Stadian, offering the prospect of a limitless panorama,
and frequently ascended. The river at this point be-
comes subdivided into numerous smaller tributaries,
each stocked with an abundant supply of fish.

The nearest way to civilisation, without involving
a retreat by the way we had come, consisted in reach-
ing, in a day and a half's march, the southern extremity
of Lake Foemundsjo, on which it was said that a small
steamer had just been placed, which would bring us
to the post road at its northern end. This end, how-
ever, by mountain valleys never before traversed
throughout by any traveller, might be reached by
attaining first the large and secluded Lake Kogon.

A surveyor engaged on charting the portions of
forest belonging to the Crown, with a party of men,
was to set out the very next morning for the hamlet
of Foskran, a day's march in this latter direction, and
we determined to accompany them, having secured a
porter to carry our luggage upon his back. The
surveyor's maps, which he kindly allowed us to copy,
were found invaluable.

40 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

One or two fishes were caught upon the way up,
wherever the road approached the stream, and also at
two points where some considerable rapids made a series
of pools, and at other likely spots ; but it was evident
that this was the fishing ground for the dwellers at
Idre. The higher one advanced, the more replete
with trout, mostly of small size, did the river appear,
until nearly sixty were added to the bag with the
assistance of the surveyor, who had found a long rod
and worm hook, with the usual horsehair line, lying
about near one of the huts, and having procured the
necessary bait, was using it with great success.

The small house, however, was most uncomfortably
crowded, and would have been unbearable when the
remainder of the party arrived, for the apartment was
already full of the surveyor's men, who occupied them-
selves in sitting mutely in every available position
and staring blankly at those who happened to be
opposite to them. It was but half a Swedish mile
(about three and a half English) to Helsjofors, a log
house at the confluence of the Storan and Hagaan,
into which the river now divided. It could be ac-
complished, moreover, by boat up a pretty winding
stream. The former stream was the larger, but with-
out human habitation, while the latter headed not far
from Lake Eogon, and boasted, besides, of two log-
houses, where, doubtless, fresh guides might be pro-
cured. Just before arriving at Helsjofors a lake of
moderate size was crossed, in which after asking my
permission to delay for the purpose, for the night air

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN. 41

was cold and damp, the boatmen laid down six long
nets, making fast one end to the shore. The men
rowed out at daybreak to examine and take in their
nets, but there was nothing whatever captured. Mean-
time I had landed, at the inflow of the Hagaan, twelve
of the finest trout I had hitherto seen in the Ostra
Dal Elv or its tributaries, with lake trout flies, scaling
just under a pound a piece.

Two log-houses or shanties now lay ahead of us,
both named Hagadalen, one distant twelve English
miles, and the other six miles farther, and beyond
them a wild and unknown tract of uncertain breadth,
and about which there was no information except that
a house, whether inhabited or not, existed near Lake
Eogon, but perhaps twenty or even fifty miles across
the frontier from the upper of the two hamlets. A
quick march of three hours along an ill-defined track,
across wooded uplands, mounting ever higher and
higher, and enjoying at each step a wider view over
the seas of forest and ridge, plain and mountain,
which gradually unrolled themselves, brought us to
the lower of the two shanties rejoicing in the name of
Hagadalen.

Not a single human being was visible. The bearer
of the baggage stated that he must at once return,
and insisted with equal certainty that the inhabitants
were not far distant and would surely appear before
night. And depart he did, after making a meal of
whatever he could find to eat. We were now alone
for a period of uncertain duration. He had assured

42 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

us that the family (of whom it consisted he could not
tell) were out haycutting, but we found subsequently
the scythes in an out-house. True, the ashes in the
large grate still possessed a faint supply of caloric,
but there was no bread (Jfad-brod) or cooking utensils
visible, denoting the probability of the inhabitants
having gone for the day to some distant hut or saeter
on the mountains. The stream had dwindled into a
mere brook too small to invite any one to angle. To
sleep was the only remaining resource. It was with
a sense of relief that some hours later we woke at the
sound of a woman's step upon the threshold. "We
offered to pack on our own backs the whole of our
luggage and afterwards row the boat, if she would
only guide us at once to the upper farmlet ; but some
washing of clothes had to be finished first, which
meant two hours occupied in boiling and beating the
different articles.

At length we were able to embark in an exceedingly
small and almost perfectly circular boat, reminding
one of those craft known upon some parts of the
Thames as " cockles," and with an unconquerable
propensity to spin round and round instead of advanc-
ing. The lake crossed, a short march brought us to
the edge of another, on the far side of which could be
dimly discerned a log hut and some out-houses — the
outposts, not of civilisation, so wretched were they,
but of human habitations, on the natural frontier
between Sweden and Norway. The lofty fjelds over-
hung the lake, which reflected their steep, bare slopes.

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN. 43

For what seemed a long period we remained, the
woman and I, shouting a ad howling with the best of
our vocal powers, making wood and mountain ring,
and waking the wild echoes, till to our joy we saw
a boat put off from the distant shore and soon found
ourselves in the farm hut which we had seen.

It was yet light, though past midnight. The wind
had increased, and was now howling round the dismal
dwelling with a force that caused it fairly to shake.
Nor was the interior more inviting. An old man, so
wrinkled and withered as scarcely to resemble any-
thing human, was endeavouring to pacify his son, a
maniac, with a very repulsive-looking bowl of sour
milk.

The dreadful cries of the madman seemed strangely
in harmony with the howlings of the storm. The ad-
venture was decidedly of a romantic character.

When a start was made next morning with the
only abled-bodied inhabitant as baggage-carrier, the
maniac had been tied in a chair with ropes as a pre-
caution, but was indulging in the most startling ges-
ticulations, and it was with a full sense of relief
that we turned our backs upon the hut and com-
menced the long march over the frontier into Norway,
till, after a hard climb, the wild expanse of Lake
Eogon could be discerned from the summit of the
divide glittering in the distance far below. Lake
Eogon is about thirty miles in length from east to
west, and fifteen in breadth, of irregular shape, and
surrounded on three sides by high mountains.

44 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Although an inhabitant of the hut at Hagadalen for
twenty years, our guide had never even seen the
hamlet which we knew existed somewhere about the
centre of the farther side of Lake Eogon — a long
march, as one could see, of apparently twenty miles,
over three distinct ranges of mountains which inter-
vened. The lowland lying along the border of the
lake was exceedingly rough and stony, and composed of
aggregations of ancient moraines, rocks, and boulders,
heaped up in the forms of ridges and pyramids. In
addition to this, the lake sent out long arms and
bays like miniature fiords, which it would have been
necessary to circumvent. It was evidently better
to keep to the higher ground, though the weather
was wild and stormy ; nor did he know what a certain
prominent wooden beacon signified situated immedi-
ately over Hagadalen — such is the ignorance of the
peasantry in these out-of-the-way districts — and which
was evidently the point of meeting of the boundaries
of Norway, Jemtland, and South Sweden ; moreover,

though

Strong as an ox, and ignorant as strong,

he had never travelled westward as far as the next
habitation of human beings. The lower parts of the
range were remarkably stony, and hardly a blade of
grass was visible. In place of grass the ground was
covered with a thick layer of crisp, lemon-coloured
moss, which gave a wintry sensation and resembled
a coating of yellow snow upon everything far and
near.

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN. 45

Late in the evening we struck upon a small fishing-
house upon the bank of the Lake Kogon, containing
boats and nets, and hence there led a well-marked
pathway which conducted us to four log houses called
Kaarinsjon, for that we found was their name, amid
pouring rain. This was the only human habitation
in the vicinity, and the next lay thirty-five miles
distant upon the shores of the long Lake Foemundsjo.

Lake Eogon in an angling capacity was disappoint-
ing. It swarms with large pike. True, we bought
from an old man that evening a fine two-pound trout
for half a kroner, which he had netted that day.
But the next day the rod brought us in nothing,
though it was sedulously employed while we jour-
neyed to the distant end of the lake in a boat, halting
for an hour for dinner, and putting up some ryper
from the rocky shore. The water is as clear as glass
and paved with enormous rocks and glacial debris,
forming a succession of huge subaqueous caverns.
Nevertheless, we saw a sight that to meet with we
would gladly have travelled double the distance.

Where a brook enters the lake in a small circular
bay we had landed with fly -rod, to secure, if possible,
a dinner. The wind was blowing freshly from in
front, and some bushes behind made it a work of art
to throw the flies successfully farther than a yard
or two. One smart pull from a good fish we got,
however, and no more, and at the same moment a
large pike made several plunges through shallow
water in pursuit of some small fry. Not far distant

46 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

from this spot the boat had to be hauled a short way
overland and re-launched on a succession of small
connected lakes, until it was finally dragged ashore
for the commencement of the long and tiresome march
on foot which was to bring us, in eight or ten hours,
to the Foemundsjo and civilisation.

The ground was covered with elk tracks (Cervus
alces), to such an extent that I could not forbear
constantly shading my eyes in search for one of these
animals, for the sun was low and shining just over
the trees from the north-west, in which direction we
were proceeding.

Two men from the last hamlet had come as guides
(for a strong wind upon the lake had rendered it im-
possible for a man, singly, to row a boat against it to
the westward) taking everything between them upon
their shoulders, in the leather wallets or knapsacks
usual among the peasantry. Now they suddenly
stop, being considerably in advance, and we all sink
to the ground, for the crackling of birch branches is
heard in front, and some large mass can be discerned
in the direction of the rays of the setting sun, making
its way directly towards us, down the wind. It is
an elk ! Never before have we seen one. We have
no rifle, and these animals are, at present, out of
season. Its enormous antlers can now be seen, still
in the velvet. It resembles the pictures of elk one
has often seen, and we attempt to get out a sketch-
book. It makes a hopeless subject, however, never
remaining for more than a moment in the same

FLY-FISHING ON THE OSTRA DAL RIVER, SWEDEN, 47

attitude, and being, also, partly obscured by the trees
intervening. It occupies itself in tearing down and
devouring the young branches of the birch. The
men are getting impatient, and talking in quite an
audible tone to each other, but as we have no gun,
and may not shoot if we had, this is of no conse-
quence. Yet the huge animal has evidently heard
nothing. Meantime the mosquitoes have become
such an intolerable pest that it is necessary to keep
rubbing one's hands and face, which are being veno-
mously punctured as though with the pricks of
minute and numberless needles tipped with poison.
Their trumpeting in the vicinity of one's ears makes
it impossible at last to hear the movements and noises
made by the elk. "We know that these must be con-
siderable, for occasionally one hears a crack at the
breaking of some large branch, making a louder sound
than the humming of the myriads of the mygg.

It now occurs to us that this may be the reason
which is also preventing the elk from hearing our
movements, though he could plainly see us if he
turned his head.

This suspicion becomes so much like certainty that
we can fancy we discern the cloud of mosquitoes
which must be hovering about his large ears, so near
is the animal to us now, not more than seven yards
away. Suddenly more crashings are heard behind,
the first elk looks round, and now we see another
following with rather finer horns. The breeze shifts
a point. In a moment more we must be discovered

48 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

by our scent. The moment has arrived. The leading
elk suddenly stops and starts back with uplifted neck.
Both stand for a second motionless and then dash
away with headlong speed, throwing up earth and
stones and breaking branches in their wild retreat.

The same night we reached the Foemundsjo, and
the next morning the high road, where I was able to
find a carriole to take me into Eoraas, which is on the
Christiania Trondhjem Eailway.

TBOUT-FISHINa IN SWEDISH LAPLAND.

Remarkable Position of a Trout-hook — How to reach Lapland — I cross the
Divide — Commence Angling — "Wonderful Fishing — Another Lake —
Children left to themselves — Netting — Following the Seddvastrom — A
Waterfall — The Seddvajaure — A deserted Hamlet — Duck Shooting —
Lapp Witch at the Ringselet — Plenty of Trout — Gaikvik — Swallows
and Gnats — Great Horn Lake — Angling at Arjeploug — Large Trout —
Grayling — Fish-trap at the Mill — The Furia Infernalis — The Udjaure —
Monstrous Trout — Fishing in the Shellefteo — The Rapids — Bastusele —
More Rapids — A lonely Settler — The Umeo — Angling in the Great
Umeo Lake — Char — Remarks about Touring in Lapland — The Lapps —
A Wolf Hunt — Grouse in Lapland — Reindeer.

WHATEVER may be the reason which causes Swedish
salmon to disregard an artificial lure, the Swedish
trout has no such scruples. He considers (till he has
tried it) that the very rudest apology for a spoon bait
is good wholesome food. On one occasion I actually
caught one that already had, firmly fixed in his in-
terior, a brass hook. This hook was an inch and
three-quarters in length, and eight and a quarter
inches of twisted wires were fastened to it. The last
three inches trailed from his mouth, and seemed in
nowise to inconvenience him, for he seized my spoon
bait with great ferocity, and was found to scale just
seven pounds.

This brass hook and its appendages lie before me
on the table, and once formed part of a long line, laid
in the Shellefteo Eiver. In some Swedish rivers the
trout fishing is good from source to sea. In others
jack abound. But above the zone of the fir and pine

E

50 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

char became numerous, and trout are found in in-
credible numbers ; but since their dimensions are only
moderate, and gaining the upper parts of the rivers
necessitates a long and tedious journey, they will
form no strong attraction to the angler. In some of
the lower waters, where the volume of the stream is
heavy, correspondingly large trout are to be caught.

Perhaps the best way to reach Lapp fishing is to
take a Wilson steamer to Gothenburg, and the rail
to Stockholm, whence a coasting steamer lands the
traveller at the mouth of any chosen river, where a
comparatively large town is nearly sure to be situated.

But I had decided to cross Lapland from the North
Sea to the Gulf of Bothnia. Taking steamer, there-
fore, from Hull to Trondhjem, I there changed into a
coasting boat, and reached Bodo in about a fortnight
after leaving English shores. I thought it would be
an interesting journey to follow the Shellefteo Eiver
from its source to the sea, and therefore journeyed
from Bodo inland by the Junkersdal to a point upon
the main Swede-Norwegian divide named Markness,
close to which was situated one of the main sources of
the river. I found it consisted of a diminutive log
hut high up on the great watershed between Nor-
wegian and Swedish Lapland, and the stream that
flows past it may be called the source of the Shellefteo.
During the journey towards the sea, a distance of
several hundred miles, I made it a rule, partly for
food and partly for sport, to fish all the streams con-
necting the inland lakes together, while my luggage

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 51

was being carried across from one rickety, swampy
boat to another.

I was using a small twelve-foot rod, and not par-
ticularly fine tackle, yet I caught so many fish that
by the time I had arrived at each lake my arm was
quite tired, and the bag nearly full, with occasionally
a supplementary supply on a string. On leaving
Markness with my two luggage-bearers in the morn-
ing, the way, as far as the first lake formed by the
river in its course, lay through a sledge road in the
forest.

"While crossing the lake the rod was put together
and an olive dun and a red palmer, to be piscatorially
accurate in my description, tied to a medium cast,
which I allowed to trail behind the boat with twenty
yards of line, partly to straighten it, and partly in
order to wash off it some tar and lard application that
I had been obliged to put on my face and neck to keep
the mosquitoes at bay.

Now, I must admit I rather expected to have
caught a dozen trout in as many minutes without
much trouble before the end of the lake was reached ;
but if any one thinks that the trout struggled and
fought which should seize the flies first, because those
flies were masterpieces of modern science, and because
a line had never been thrown in that lake before, they
are much mistaken.

I had not yet learned that Lapp lake trout were
only to be caught in the shallow water at the edge ;
but there in almost unlimited numbers. We were

E 2

52 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

rapidly approaching the end of the lake, where the
river overflowed, and I had almost sunk into a pro-
found melancholy at the thought that we should have
to subsist on dried reindeer meat and barley bread,
when a series of sharp tugs at the line announced the
first lake trout of the season, and a very fine one he
proved to be.

Landing quickly, I directed my Swedish bearers to
proceed with the luggage to the next lake, where we
expected to find an old boat drawn up, which would
enable us to cross and suffer less fatigue than if we
were to follow the shore on foot.

The connecting stream between the two lakes was
but a hundred and fifty yards in length, and, by the
addition of numerous small tributary streams, had
become a very different one to that at Markness. In-
deed, it would hardly have been possible to cross it
now without wading breast high. Changing to a
drawn gut cast, for I was determined to know the
worst at once, and using a green midge and a fly with
an orange body, I cast with a long line into the middle
of the current where it left the lake. The result was
a violent tug and the departure of the cast and flies.

Putting on a much heavier cast I tried again, and
landed eight large trout, which brought the scale
down at two pounds each, while thirty smaller ones
were dropped into a large sack before I consented to
leave, which was in half an hour. The next lake was
many miles in extent. The small farm hamlet where
I was to pass the night lay a good Swedish mile down

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 53

the north side. Birch-covered promontories ran out
into the lake in all directions, while

The woods sloped downward to its brink, and stood
With their green faces fixed upon the flood.

On the south-west the mountains rose in broken
masses, the highest covered with snow.

A soft haze peculiar to these regions filled the
air, making the distance indistinct, and adding to
the perfection of its loveliness. Numerous rocks,
stones, and islands projected above the surface,
giving one an impression that there were many more
below which might make navigation somewhat
dangerous.

Down this lake we drifted, therefore, before the
wind for many English miles, till the little log hut
came in view. Here no one was to be seen except
some children, left to take care of themselves while
the settler and his wife were away hay-cutting. As
there was apparently no trout stream near, I could
find nothing to do except to lie on the grass and
watch the children killing sparrows. Holding a long
branch upright with a bunch of twigs growing at the
end they advanced slowly and stealthily on their
prey, which were usually feeding in the grass and
mistook the children possibly for a new species of
moving tree, until the branch descended suddenly on
the ground with a swish. The next proceeding was
the return of the two inhabitants — a man and boy,
who immediately started off in a boat with their trout

54 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

nets. I had forgotten to tell them that I had
abundance of trout in the hut, or they would doubt-
less have saved themselves that trouble. However,
fish food was never thrown away or wasted. What
was not eaten at once was invariably salted down
wherever I happened to be, for netting, of course, can
only be carried on during the summer ; and it is quite
exceptional to find any other method adopted than
netting for the capture of trout or any other kind of
fish by the Swedish settlers in, Lapland. These nets
are in forty-yard lengths, four feet deep, and the
mesh will only admit trout of a pound in weight, so
that the capture of a trout over that weight, and more
especially by such an unheard-of thing as a rod, was
looked upon as quite an extraordinary event, without
a parallel in the memory of the oldest inhabitant.
Next morning fourteen trout were taken from the nets
laid over-night. Every little lake and pond that is
deep enough, and has a stream, holds fish of some sort,
and out of some forty-three different settlers' hamlets
in which I passed a night, I can recollect none with-
out the indispensable net. The journey was resumed
in the morning in a boat to the end of the lake, and
the luggage left to be conveyed by the man and boy
across the hills to the next one. Then I shouldered
my rod and followed the course of the river, here
called the Sedd-va-strom, being the Shellefteo Eiver
under another name. Above the Great Horn Lake
there are only trout and char, but in that lake and
below it are fourteen different sorts of fish, and some

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 55

of the trout no doubt run very large, but these latter
seem to prefer the lower end of the lake. In that
part of the river which I was now engaged in follow-
ing, are several falls up which the trout cannot go,
and consequently the fishing was not so good. In
saying this I am supposing that the larger trout
remain in the great lakes during the winter, and
make their way up or down the rivers when the
latter are thawed and freed from ice.

Most of Lapland is well within the Arctic circle,
the cold during the winter is excessive, and the
amount of uncongealed flowing water in the rivers
very small indeed.

At this point in the river, namely some forty miles
above the Great Horn Lake, I lost several fine casts
with flies, through striking fish too hard in the heavy
current, and only succeeded in landing a few small
ones. At one of the falls the water converges into a
deep tunnel, which it has worn out for itself in its
bed of rock, and the whole river, massed into one
grand body of water, shoots out into space amid
clouds of rainbow vapour, and, describing a splendid
curve in the air, falls thundering into a deep pool.
The large lake, where we expected to find our next
boat (after passing several smaller lakes), is called the
Seddva Jaure (jaure meaning lake in Lapland). The
boat, when found, had evidently not been used all the
summer, and the cracks had to be plugged with tar
and tow, which we had brought with us for the
purpose. This lake is seventeen miles in length, and

56 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the shores are, as usual, thickly wooded, for almost the
whole of Sweden is one vast forest. In Norway, on the
other hand, only twenty per cent, of the country is
covered with timber. On arrival at the little log-
house on its shores, the inhabitants, as usual, were
found away haymaking, nor did they return till the
following evening.

So, on the departure of Forstrom and his son, the
fourth of the series of my guides and attendants, I was
left to shift for myself. The first thing to be done
was evidently to support the system, which meant
catching fish, for there was not an atom of food to be
seen in the house. Not supposing that anything
could be got with certainty in the lake, I took a small
boat found lying on the beach and rowed up a long
bay, where, from the configuration of the hills, I con-
sidered there would be a stream. I was not mistaken,
but as it was very broad and shallow at the mouth, I
ran the boat ashore, and making my way with some
difficulty through a thickly tangled forest of birch
and pine, came upon a large pool several acres in
extent. Stationing myself at the inflow I let the line
float out slowly.

Keeping it taut, though the sun was shining brightly
and the mosquitoes exceedingly annoying, I succeeded
in half an hour in catching twenty-five trout, of which
the five largest taken together weighed five pounds
and a quarter.

Having caught enough for two or three meals I
returned, and lighting a fire proceeded to broil the

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 57

five largest, not forgetting to cut the heads off and
take out the intestines. Two ptarmigan were treated
in a similar fashion, so as to be ready for breakfast.
After a fresh search I at length succeeded in discover-
ing some barley bread, so that on the whole I enjoyed
a tolerably good dinner, and after lighting a pipe I
again explored all the cupboards and various shelves in
the kitchen, but could only find some cold porridge.
Then I went to bed — that is, lay on some sheepskins,
feeling like Alexander Selkirk on his desert island, and
so passed the night. Next day I went to catch more
trout in the same stream, but on the way, thinking
they might take in the lake, though there was not
a breath of wind and the sky perfectly cloudless,
I let out twenty yards of line with a couple of flies,
laying the rod on a seat in front, while I rowed
slowly along near the shore, suspecting that nothing
was to be got over deep water. Next moment the
rod flew off the seat, for a big fish was " on."
Having no landing net, I was obliged to row ashore
with one hand, holding the rod in the other, and
in five minutes had manoeuvred a fine fish on to a
sloping stone, and thence into the boat, scaling just
two pounds by my weighing machine. Two more of
a pound and a quarter each were got before I reached
the stream, where about twenty, large and small,
yielded themselves up to the allurements of a brown
and grey palmer.

After returning to the house, I saw five ducks
feeding within shot of the shore, diving for the weed

58 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

at the bottom. They appeared peculiarly unreasoning
animals, all diving down together instead of leaving
one of their number on the surface to keep watch.
Marking a tree near their position, I made a wide
circuit till I was opposite to the place where I judged
they were still feeding. Peeping cautiously, I ob-
served them in the same place, but -evidently on the
qui vive, for the evening was remarkably still. As it
was particularly important to secure some animal
food, the last ryper being eaten, I disregarded the
agonising tortures caused by a swarm of mosquitoes
and remained perfectly still, till, recovering their
composure, they dived again, when by making rushes,
and stopping as though turned into stone when they
came to the surface, I arrived within convenient
shooting distance, and, getting their heads in a line,
discharged the right barrel of my gun and imme-
diately "sent on the left." The result of this
momentous u shot for the pot " was four fine wild
duck, while one flew across the lake untouched. Late
in the evening the inhabitants, consisting of two men
and a woman, returned, and, with unassumed non-
chalance, expressed not the smallest sign of any
astonishment at seeing a stranger, to them strangely
dressed, seated on their bed.

I made known my wants in the best Swedish I
could muster, and next morning pushed on in a leaky
boat with the two men southwards and eastwards down
the Seddvajaure, a sound craft being quite exceptional,
as altogether I crossed thirty-nine lakes and shot

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 59

fifteen rapids, and only found one boat that " refused'7
to leak. At the extremity of the lake the Seddvastrom
(strom meaning river) rushes into a deep pool, where
I hooked and lost a finer trout than any I had hitherto
seen, bearing out my fancy that the farther down this
river one journeys and the larger it becomes, the
heavier are the fish. Out of this pool the river sweeps
down into the Eingselet Lake, where there stands a
collection of Lapp houses, or rather hovels. The only
representative of the race was a Lapp woman, with
long, lank hair, and yellow, shrivelled and hag-like
skin, looking like what an old writer on Lapland calls
" one of the Lapland witches, formerly of such fame
in the north." The ground was strewed with deer-
sledges, birch bark, pony sledges and reindeer horns.
Inside the witch's hut were all kinds of implements
for holding, churning and skimming milk. But she
was a good-humoured old thing, so she was presented
with a dozen trout, and as we departed she ran along
the shore waving her conically- shaped red cap, and
not looking where she was running, till she disappeared
suddenly into a large hole, making it seem as though
she had vanished head first into the earth. I was
relieved to see her rise again none the worse, and
laughing gaily until we had passed from sight.

Before finally departing from the Eingselet, as the
collection of houses called Gaikvik was but five hours
distant, I returned to the river, to the same point
where, after losing the large trout, I had quitted it.
Here the fishing was certainly brisk, and I should

60 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

not be exaggerating in saying that as I stood on a
stone projecting into a long turbulent pool of snow-
blue water, every cast which fell not less than seven
yards distant was followed by a dashing rise ; and in
half an hour with a couple of flies (I think a red and
black palmer, though anything else might have done
equally well), a sack held by one of the men was
filled with thirty pounds weight of all sizes, from half
a pound to a pound and a quarter by scale. With
half-a-dozen ducks these formed quite a decent load
for one man. When fairly hooked the play of these
trout was most determined, here, there, and every-
where in a moment, now leaping a full yard out of
the water, now boring down among the stones. I had
no landing net, and to save time landed them by
walking away from the water when their frantic
rushes permitted, and thus persuading them gently
towards some stones in shallow water, instead of wind-
ing up the line in the usual method on the reel, and
so losing time by having to pay it out for each fish
afresh.

About this point the Arctic circle was crossed, and
some miles lower the Shellefteo Eiver reaches the
Great Horn Lake, where grayling are found. Heavy
trout up to twenty pounds in weight are sure to lie at
the point of the river's inflow into the lake, but ascend
they cannot, for it descends in a series of cascades.

At Gaikvik I was presented with dried skins of
fishes from the lake which I had professed myself
curious about, and which are used to clear coffee

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 61

with. The Horn Lake contains the following fish,
all of which, except the roach and bullhead, I either
caught myself or saw caught. They are as follows:—
the great lake trout, the brown trout, perch, pike,
char, eel, gwynniad, carp, bullhead, roach and gray-
ling. Above the fir zone only trout and char are
found, and above the upper birch region all fish life
disappears.

The dull rush of the rapids at Gaikvik, where the
big fish lie, some miles away, is indistinctly heard.
In the same direction we catch a glimpse of the extra-
ordinary wooden church called Lofmock, without a
parson or any signs of life, except when some Lapps
come in the winter with their reindeer sledges across
the lake to worship (and to get drunk, unfortunately
also, on vodki). After getting some wild duck and
trout cooked, and some coffee, I left Gaikvik, with its
four red-coloured log-houses, soon far behind. It is
in reality a place, compared with others, of the first
importance. Under all the eaves were dozens of swal-
lows' nests, while the birds themselves darted and
soared round and overhead after the myggskrank
(Culex pipiens\ and the knotten (Simulia reptans\
and the hya, and the Ceratopogon pulicaris — well
(bother scientific names), after gnats' and midges of
various descriptions as found in Lapland.

From the middle of June to the end of August is
the reign of the mosquito throughout the whole of
Lappmark and Finmark and many other places on
both sides of the Arctic circle. Hutchinson, who

62 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

journeyed up the Luleo to Quickjock and then re-
turned as he had come, says it was a continual fight
with them the whole way, " our hats and nets were
stained with blood." Several thin ones crawled
through the meshes, of our veils, though the maker
had warranted them small enough, and some actually
forced their way through a tiny hole in the crown of
my hat punched for ventilation.

When crossing a bog between certain rapids there
seemed some uncertainty as to whether, between the
yielding soil and the remorseless onslaught of the
mosquitoes, one was likely to be soonest buried or
eaten alive. When one has not covered one's face
with tar and lard the tortures of the vampires felt like
a close rain of darts dipped in venom. The Lapps
smear their faces sometimes with an unctuous mixture
of tar and milk; but in either case the remedy is
almost as unpleasant as the disease. As we proceed
the phlegmatic and thick-skinned Swede slaps himself,
swears violently and wishes the mosquitoes anywhere
out of the world, dropping his oars for the purpose
of greater expression, and then rowing for a few
strokes harder than before to make up for the waste
of time. But custom is a second nature, and one even
gets accustomed to mosquitoes and every other annoy-
ance. The sun had long set when we started, but a
deep orange glow filled the northern sky. An intense
stillness reigned, broken only by the monotonous
plash of the oars as we rowed on hour after hour
down that great northern lake, rounding one head-

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 63

land only to find another precisely similar beyond it ;
but the mosquitoes turned all this voluptuous quie-
tude into unbearable suffering.

At about twelve o'clock in the arctic midnight-day
we roused a good couple from their sheepskin beds at
the little farm of Hogheeden, having at length reached
an habitation of human beings, such as it was. They
were "poor but honest," and bore well-marked Lapp
characteristics on their ugly but good-natured and
homely features. Next day this man and his wife
rowed me down to Arjeploug, pulling all day as hard
as they could.

I angled on the way down for three hours with
spoon bait and phantom ; but as the fish are only to
be got in shallow water and in certain places, nothing
came of it.

About midnight we reached Arjeploug, the chief
town of the province, which boasts a church and post-
office, a wind-swept collection of Lapp hovels and
red log-houses. The Lapps were away on their usual
summer peregrinations. Their huts lay scattered in
chaotic confusion, as though stranded by a receding
flood. Many of them lay almost upon their sides on
the rocks, built like boxes, and not fastened in any
manner to the soil, probably for purposes of transport.

After some delay, and a great deal of hammering on
wooden doors, one of the most aristocratic families
woke up, and were kind enough to admit me, and
put me up in two really nicely furnished guest
rooms. The other two rooms in the house were

64 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the kitchen and family bedroom, where five girls,
four boys, three women and one man were stowed
away, but how or where they were enabled to find
sufficient room for themselves, or why they preferred
being so crowded together, when abundant space
was available elsewhere, I was quite unable to deter-
mine.

I must now describe the three days I spent in fishing
with my host, a Lapp-Bonder, or Swedish settler in
Lapland. The morning after my arrival I went out,
accompanied by the whole of the family, and stationing
myself on the rocks on the banks of the river near the
village, and opposite to a large island, I fastened on to
half a length of coarse gut two trout-flies known,
I believe, as a grey gnat and a yellow palmer, using
my twelve-foot green-heart, and captured a large gray-
ling " before I knew where I was." This must have
been the exact spot where, forty years ago, a party of
three English enjoyed splendid grayling and trout fish-
ing. I was pleased to learn from "P. S. "W.," who,
writing to the Field, states having seen two letters of
mine in that paper describing Lapland travel ; and that
they, too, passed through Arjeploug coming from the
Windel Eiver. It appears since then no one had angled
at this spot, or, perhaps, anywhere else in the Shellefteo.
Letting out five yards in the strong current, grayling
after grayling was hooked and fought hard, spreading
out its iridescent fins and jerking desperately at the
line until each in its turn was laid in triumph on the
stones. The family fished with the other rod, a salmon

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 65

rod, and for some hours made a sad muddle of the
business, but managed to get lots of fish on to the
bank notwithstanding.

I found my occupation sufficiently absorbing, as it
was the first grayling fishing worthy of Lapland that
I had met with ; but a glance over my shoulder showed
me half the family engaged in wrestling with the large
rod like one man, and getting almost the best of the
contest, but producing in the process the, to me, most
excruciating sounds, at times like the cracking of a
whip, at other times like the whistling of a gale of wind,
as the bending top described a semicircle in the air.

However, in a couple of hours the bag had reached
the agreeable dimensions of twenty-six grayling, nine
of which, tied together, weighed 14 lb., and ten trout of
only moderate size. Work was struck about midday
to allow of preparations being made for a most success-
ful day on the morrow on some of the other connecting
cataracts between the two lakes, for the Great Horn
Lake is joined to the one below it by seven distinct and
separate parallel rivers. All fish not used at once were
carefully scraped and salted down in a barrel.

It was pleasant to know that nothing would be
wasted — that every fish would be of use — fish that
their coarse appliances could not bring to bag in large
numbers, but which was simply a question of time
when using the English tackle I had with me.

Next day we took a good luncheon of eggs, tunn-
brod, reindeer meat, goats' milk, cheese and butter,
and rowed across the lake in splendid weather to the

F

66 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

first of the rivers which join the Horn Lake to the
TJdjaure. Then we ran the boat ashore on to some
rocks, which the Swede, Edholm, declared was the
best place of all for the largest trout (stretching his
arms as wide as they would go by way of illustration).
But as the sun was blazing and every stone on the
bottom visible, I decided to try first lower down, where,
after a long rush of turbulent water there lay sparkling
in the sunlight, a large pool, covered with white
bubbles, and at least thirty yards in breadth and sixty
in length. The narrow rush at the inflow was a
splendid place for letting out without any trouble a
long line with a spoon bait attached, for any one not
an adept in the art of casting a bait in orthodox
manner, so after letting the line run as far as to what
I judged was the head of the pool, I walked slowly
down, but considerably slower than the current, to
keep it spinning. I was rewarded by a violent jerk,
and when I wound up the broken line it became
evident that the spoon was firmly fixed in the jaw of
some monstrous trout, and was sailing about the pool
between heaven and earth, like Mahommed's coffin.

Meanwhile, Edholm fished with the other rod and a
large fly of the palmer sort. His angling consisted of
violent efforts, accompanied by a loud swishing sound of
the rod and line cutting the air with immense violence,
quite audible a hundred yards away, and usually having
the result of propelling the fly about a yard and a half.

My large trout refused to be tempted further, being
apparently quite satisfied with capturing my bait, and

TEOUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 67

after trying for half an hour longer I changed to a
couple of trout flies, and soon began to be busy, play-
ing two pound and one pound grayling, and small,
dashing trout into the landing net, which one of the
young Swedes held to receive them. It was getting
on for luncheon time when Edholm came up and said
he had something to show me which must be seen
before eating ; so, going back to the boat, we rowed to
the next pool, a hundred yards away, and after following
a path for a short distance, came in sight of a substantial
log house in the middle of the river, built on great fir
piles and connected by a stone weir or dam with the shore.
Below the dam the river was steep, broad, and stony.

This, then, was the object of our search, and one that
all the party looked forward to showing me with such
impatience. It was apparently nothing but a common
flour-mill, consisting of a funnel-shaped turbine, down
which the water rushing turned a wheel and caused
the heavy millstone to revolve.

"While I was wondering what a great flat chamber,
built out on to the river bed below, meant, and
through which the water percolated, Edholm un-
locked the door, and letting go a heavy lever, stopped
instantly the flow through the turbine. Then with
our combined efforts we threw open a great trap-
flooring, and a sight was presented to my astonished
gaze that I shall never forget.

I can see that mill-stream shining,
As when I saw it last.

The water within was boiling like a gigantic caldron.

F 2

68 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

To and fro, with their backs out of water, terrified
at the noise and light, splashed and darted a dozen
great fish, seeking in vain some escape from their
wooden prison. When there were yet eight or ten
inches of water it ceased to subside, and a large,
murderous-looking four-pronged and barbed salmon
spear was brought and the following fish speared
and deposited with some trouble, ponderously wrig-
gling, in a large hamper. First some large carp and
gwynniad, then a splendid trout of ten pounds, accor-
ding to my weighing machine (which was all it was
marked to register), with a dark greenish Salmo ferox
appearance, much spotted with black. Then two
sea-trout-like silvery fellows of five and a quarter
and four pounds respectively, and several smaller
ones. After this we opened the turbine again and
went to luncheon. While grayling were being fried
in a frying-pan over a wood fire by the boys,
Edholm and I began our meal on raw carps' roe and
salt as a hors cPceuvre resembling caviare.

After lunch both trout and grayling were taken
with a spoon in the swifter parts, but by far the
greater number with fly, including a trout of over
three pounds, and when we rowed home in the
evening there lay at the bottom of the boat one hun-
dred and sixteen fish, scaling nearly as many pounds.
The flour-mill being the property of the lendsman,
or chief official of Arjeploug, we left all the fish
taken in the turbine at his house, and although
I asked, I was unable to obtain the skin of the

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 69

large trout, which I wanted to bring to England.
Fishing rather farther away next day the bag was
seventy-five fish, weighing sixty-one pounds, the
largest a grayling of two pounds, with several
others running it very close. All were caught
with trout rod and palmers or bumbles. The gray-
ling took the fly in a most determined manner, and
tried to beat the line with their tails when hooked,
and as they have tender mouths, had to be brought
to net at once. The trout leaped out of the water
as soon as they felt the steel in a succession of
bounds, and were then unceremoniously wound up.
In fact, altogether, during the two days, enough trout
and grayling were caught and salted to form a useful
addition to the settler's winter stock of provisions.

Bathing on the second day of my arrival at
Arjeploug, in the lake, I discovered that the shallow
muddy bottom near the margin swarmed with small
red animalcule, and several long black worms were
visible, in appearance like horse hairs, long, thin,
black, and resting almost motionless upon the mud.
Just as I had made up my mind that these animals
must be perfectly harmless, and was about to plunge
into the ice-cold water, I recollected reading that
Linnaeus, the great naturalist, had named a certain
worm that he thought attacked him in the water and
penetrated his flesh, during his travels in Lappmark,
the Furia infernalis, or infernal fury. At the same
moment I remembered an important breakfast en-
gagement with my friend Herr Edholm, and threw

70 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

on my clothes again while I hurried back to the
house. Possibly the timely discovery of those harm-
less-looking leeches to which the great Swede had
given so terrible a name, had saved me from an
experience like his.

Next day I left for a seventy-mile journey down
the Shellefteo to Bastusele.

We slept at a log hut half-way down the Udjaure,
and next day left early, the boatman telling me not to
fish until we came to a place where there were " Stora
laxor " — big fish. The place he alluded to was directly
above the first series of rapids after the Udjaure Lake,
which is also called the Storafvan, or Great Lake. It
was a lovely spot. As we floated slowly down upon
the outlet, where the great river left the lake, with
Olaf, my boatman, resting upon his oars, I felt a
double excitement. The first was anxiety to catch
some of these monstrous trout that Edholm said
abounded here ; and the second originated in my
remembering that, after catching them, there were
four or five rapids to be shot. It was true that the
rapids were not very dangerous, not nearly so much
so as others we descended later, and Forstrom had
been up and down them before. Still they were the
first of the kind I had seen, and their dull roar was
hardly in perfect accordance with that peace and
repose so suggestive of the angler's art.

We were shut in by tall pine-trees, and as the lake
narrowed gradually a slight current became percep-
tible. Blue stones became visible, twenty feet below,

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 71

and now and then a great rock broke the surface.
The tackle was all ready — a small, glittering spoon
with a yard of gut, a short pliant rod, and one hundred
yards of line. "We were on the bosom of the rapid,
within twenty yards of the edge, where the waters
toppled over and sank rushing away. This was far
enough, so I directed Sandstrom to row up against the
current, while I let out the bait with twenty yards of
line. In a few minutes the rod made a terrific lunge,
and I felt that a fish like a salmon was at the end of
my line. In the unexpected suddenness of his attack
and the excitement of almost my first really large fish,
Olaf had, through sheer amazement, ceased rowing,
and we were nearly swept down the cataract, and
the fishing prematurely put a stop to. Fortunately,
the big fish was well hooked, and made for the lake,
whither we followed him, after some hard pulling
against the current ; and towing him, after a stubborn
fight, inshore, trailed him across the stones — a spotted
monster just over seven pounds.

We had a long and dangerous row still before us ;
so there was no rest for the wicked, and, after a
moment's breathing time, we were at it again. This
time Olaf took care to keep well above the current,
while I let out rather a longer line. Hardly had the
bait reached the "breast" of the rapid when there
was a heavy swirl in the water just where the bait
was scintillating, and the whirr of the little trout
reel told us that another rapacious victim had
attached itself to the lure.

72 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Again and again the same thing was repeated, till
five splendid trout of 7 Ib. each and one of 5£ Ib. lay on
the boards, caught so quickly in succession that the
first was not yet dead. After this there came a pause,
and, as there seemed no more fish inclined to take and
be taken, except an occasional grayling, the line was
wound up, and our first rapid was shot — quite a short
one, but steep, while the sensation was both novel and
exhilarating. Half-way down a wave broke on Olaf's
back, and he groaned aloud under the chilling douche,
but next moment the boat was floating peacefully in a
large pool, and we had overcome our first obstacle.

After a rest the spoon was trailed to and fro across
the current as we descended, till the little farm of
Strom horn was reached, where two of the largest fish
were boiled and one fried, which, after satisfying Olaf
and myself, left enough for the farmer's family for
several days. Such large fish had rarely been seen by
these natives, who seldom use anything excepting
small-meshed nets, and very good eating they were —
crisp and red like salmon, while Olaf was never tired
of explaining the method of their capture. Then we
floated down the river to Slagnas, where the good
people put us up comfortably for the night.

This portion also of the river proved to be a splendid
fishing ground, where I spent a couple of hours that
evening, till Olaf got so worried with the gnats, being
unable to row and wipe them off at the same time,
that, as- it was getting late, I mercifully left off.
Close by the farm lies a long stretch of still water

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 73

ending in one of the most formidable rapids we had
hitherto encountered. Just where the still, deep
water merged into the cataract I found was situated
the fishing.

Its outlet dashed into a deep cascade
Sparkling with foam, until again subsiding.

I had hardly let out a dozen yards of line, when
what must have been a very heavy fish carried away
the little spoon that had hitherto done its duty so
well and faithfully. This disaster, which I soon
remedied, was due to my being obliged, for want of a
better, to make use of a small trout reel, which was
unable to pay out the line fast enough. The next
essay was more successful, for after two or three pre-
liminary nibbles, at which I struck vigorously without
being able to hook anything, a dashing and powerful
trout attacked the little glittering piece of metal, and,
after a severe tussle, which almost bent the rod into a
semicircle, was brought to bank and scaled 5 Ib. This
fish, in whose stomach, curious to relate, there was
found firmly fixed a brass hook, previously mentioned,
was the precursor of several others of exactly the same
size, but whose play was not so determined as that of
this extraordinary fish. It was in apparently good
condition. This hook with the twisted wires found
attached to it may be seen at Arundel House (The
Flyfishers' Club). Examples have frequently been
noted of fish caught with old barbs embedded in
their mouths. This one was firmly fixed in the

74 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

stomach. How insensible, then, must fishes be to
pain !

But these Slagnas trout were not so entirely un-
sophisticated as their easy capture would lead one to
believe.

Carl Forsham, who took the boat down the rapids
for us the next day, possesses an extraordinary bait,
with which he sometimes takes a fish. It consists of
an enormous, heavy, double salmon fly made of scarlet
feathers tied to a piece of glittering metal, and
fastened by thick twine to a short, pliant birch stick.
With this ungainly implement he rows to and fro
across the current, and when once the great hooks
have been driven firmly into the jaw of a trout, the
birch stick yields sufficiently to insure its capture.

The following morning we resumed our journey
down the Shellefteo Eiver. The roar of the rapid
below sounded like distant thunder, or —

Lifted its voice, a muffled, tremulous roar,

Borne on the breeze an instant, and then gone

Back to the regions of the middle air ;

The voice as of a nation overthrown,

With beat of drums, when hosts have marched to war.

To avoid the large rocks, and at the same time to
prevent the boat getting broadside to the current,
constitutes the difficulty generally experienced in
descending a rapid.

Below Slagnas a succession of them was encountered,
down which we were carried at tremendous speed.
Wet weather would have made things very uncomfort-

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 75

able. Day after day, however, the sun rose and set in
unclouded splendour, or occasionally amid cloud of red
and orange hues, or behind dark blue hills and over
the mirror-like surface of many lakes, bordered by tall
pine-trees standing out blackly against the sky.

Plenty of reindeer, the private property of the Lapps,
were seen all the way down upon the banks of the
river as we glided past.

On quitting the hospitable hamlet of the Lapp-
bonders by whom I had been entertained, and who
would take no payment but fish, we floated quickly
down the current towards the rapid. On reaching my
fishing ground of the evening before, I threw in a
salmon fly, and got a pull from a good trout, but soon
returned to the spoon, and in half an hour landed three
good fish of 2^-lb., and 4|lb. and 61b., and then gave
up fishing in view of the more serious business in
hand.

The volume of water was about three times heavier
than that of the Thames at its usual level. Had there
been less, the rocks would have made it too unsafe to
descend. Carl Forsham, who was better acquainted
with the cataract than Olaf, was to take the boat down,
having descended it on previous occasions on a raft.

The boat was run ashore at the head of the rapid,
bailed out to ride as light as possible, everything
except a few light articles taken out and a false gun-
wale nailed on ; while Olaf, shouldering my baggage,
beckoned me to follow him through the wood. I had
enormous confidence, however, in Carl, and was

76 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

anxious to descend with him in the boat and observe
more closely than I could from the shore his skill and
watermanship. After explaining that the boat must
be lightly loaded and making various objections to the
proposal, he at length consented to take me, and told
me to sit well in the centre of the boards on the
bottom. As he pushed off, I suddenly experienced an
almost irresistible desire to jump out. Next moment
the boat was being carried rapidly down towards
apparent destruction. As we topped the brink the
speed quickly increased, we were violently tossed to
and fro, while waves broke in upon the boat, making
me gasp convulsively and cling helplessly to my air
cushion, which I had filled with air to act as a kind of
effectual life-preserver in case of accidents.

A vision of Carl, straining at the oars as we shot
within an inch of a tower of water foaming and
dashing against an opposing rock, and next moment
the danger was over, for we found ourselves floating
placidly on the Ledvatnet, with only twenty miles
more to row to Bastusele. While we waited for
Olaf to come round with the luggage through the
wood I captured a few grayling with a couple of
small flies, which the large trout seemed not to
fancy at all. These Carl took back with him, as
there would be plenty lower down.

Below Slagnas, walled in by sombre pines, the
great Shellefteo continues a winding course. A last
rapid had to be negotiated before reaching Bastusele,
whose muffled roar had long been audible. The

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 77

great violent stream bore us past terrifying swirls
of broken water and roaring, foaming cascades, while
Olaf grinned pleasantly, and, by a skilful manoeuvre,
and just in the nick of time, we always escaped them.

Before we reached Bastusele there was one place
where the fishing was so good that I returned all
the way to it next day, but was not rewarded in a
manner equal to the expectations I had formed of
it. This place, which had seemed to me such a likely
haunt for the great trout, was a connecting current
between two large lakes, thirty yards apart ; but as
the country was more thickly populated than the
regions above, boats were continually passing. The
river, whose course I had hitherto followed for over
a hundred and fifty miles, from this point runs in an
almost uninterrupted course of rapids to the sea.

At Bastusele the settlers fish for the enormous
trout, or Salmo ferox, which they call lax (which
means salmon in Norway), with line of the very
strongest, colossal rough salmon flies, and a peculiar
large spoon they obtain in Stockholm. These great
trout are constantly fished for all the summer at the
entrance to the rapids close to Bastusele, and are in
consequence very shy and wild. There is here quite
an extensive settlement. I tried my luck in the usual
style from a boat, and, of course, great things were
expected of me, and I was even accompanied across
the lake to the favourite spot by five large boats
filled with spectators.

Olaf had told most exaggerated stories of the

78 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

wonderful things we had done on our way down, of
the fights with the great stubborn trout of immense
size and unparalleled ferocity, and of the magic bait
that came from England that no fish could resist
seizing. But whether it was that I felt shy at being
watched by so many eager eyes, or that the fish
became aware of the concourse of people bent on
their destruction, and so sent their most valiant
champions to do battle with the stranger, or what-
ever the cause was, the end was a miserable failure.

To my intense mortification I first lost a heavy
gimp flight to which I had attached as bait a small
grayling, then a spoon bait followed it, and, lastly,
another large spinning flight of hooks fastened with
gut instead of gimp. These must have been carried
away by very large trout indeed — judging by the
strength they exhibited during the few moments
the 'attachment' lasted, I estimated them to be from
fifteen pounds to twenty pounds in weight.

After this I had two more "runs ; " on each occa-
sion the fish escaped, breaking the gimp, and carrying
with him as a souvenir a triangle of hooks. After
this I could get never a touch, and soon gave up.
This was certainly very disappointing, but there was
some consolation, that though some one or other of
the settlers was constantly fishing while I was there,
day and night, for the nights were still nearly as
luminous as the days, not a single fish was got, or
was touched, except the fortunate five which I had
lost.

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 79

Eesisting the attractions of an easier and shorter
way seawards to the Gulf of Bothnia by a village
some twenty miles distant named Malo, where the
post-road commenced, I continued to follow the
stream, although it was no longer possible to
descend in a boat owing to the numerous rapids,
accompanied by Olaf and by Eric Landgren, through
thick pine forests, where at every step the ground
was encumbered with fallen trees and undergrowth;
keeping always beside the river, across stony tracts
and marshy ground covered with grey reindeer moss
and berries, where the banks were strewed with
stranded logs, or at times shooting down on boats
belonging to little hamlets on the banks, and de-
scending by this means no fewer than fifteen rapids.
Some of these cataracts caused us some painfully
exciting work, as the men had not explored them
before, and it was necessary to stand up constantly
to keep a look-out for large rocks over the crests
of the rollers or large waves caused by the current.

Notwithstanding all these precautions, a grating
sound or a jerk every now and again caused me
many an unpleasant thrill.

An enormous amount of timber lay piled near the
banks, apparently cut and left to rot, probably from
inability to drag it to the water owing to a warm
winter and the premature disappearance of the snow.
Such as it is, the timber trade of Sweden seems mo-
nopolised by the great merchants of Gothenburg.

At the farm of Eonas we were hospitably enter-

80 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

tained by a Swedish settler and his family living
twenty miles from anywhere in a clearing in the
forest. Their possessions consisted of a house and
out-house, four cows, a pony, and a boat and nets on
the river.

"When the men arrived at these oases in the desert
of Lapland there was always a difficulty in getting
them away. Coffee had to be drunk several times,
which meant roasting, grinding, and boiling it in
a brass pot, each time requiring half an hour. Salt
and sugar were added, and it was certainly very ex-
cellent. I was congratulating the farmer on the
fact that coffee took the place apparently of alcoholic
drinks, on which he immediately left the room and
presently returned with a cup of very strong and
nasty brmdevin, which I was obliged to drink. When
we had drunk more than enough coffee he took us
down the river to his boat, and I commenced fishing
"by special request," in order to supply the settler
with some fish which his nets had lately, he said,
been unable to procure for him. He had heard long
tales of sport from Olaf, and rowed me up and down
and across the stream where he thought the best fish
lay, while I used a phantom minnow for a bait, in
the middle of a long stretch of deep still water, with
a rapid below and one above, and tall pines growing
at the water's edge. We rowed down stream first,
and I let out the phantom (a small blue one) just
where the lower rapid commenced, and was soon fast
in a good trout. Not having a landing-net or a gaff

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 81

we rowed instantly ashore, and, as Olaf was -en-
deavouring to secure the fish with a large knife, he
stepped too near the edge and suddenly sank up to
his middle in a sort of quicksand of wood fibres and
bits of bark.

Finally, after angling successfully for three hours we
prepared to continue the journey, having caught nine
trout, weighing no less than thirty -nine pounds, and
sixteen grayling. After a few days I reached Shellefteo,
on the Gulf of Bothnia, and from thence journeyed on
foot through the almost pathless forests, sleeping each
night in some farm or hamlet, until I at last came
upon the Umeo, in which plenty of pike may be
caught, but probably no trout until the upper parts
of it are reached.

I came upon it at the village of Lyksele, where
good quarters await the traveller, but the scenery is
tame and the country densely timbered. Some parts
of the river seem to hold gwynniard, besides pike.
Higher up trout and char abound, as I discovered.
Of numerous natives with whom I came in contact,
my recollection of a certain old man who rowed me
up part of the great Umeo lake will always remain
the clearest, for two reasons : one being because he tried
to steal my frying-pan, which was carried loose, and
the other because his boat was almost the only one met
with which did not leak and required no baling out.

After many long days of travel up the Umeo Eiver
I. found myself at last once more among the high
mountains which divide Sweden from Norway, making

82 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

my way by long " portages " and by boat back to the
North Sea.

I certainly expected splendid fishing at Terna, where
several great streams join the Umeo, and which looks
on the map as if it were situated in a perfect network
of lakes and rivers ; but, though I fished carefully for
a whole day, I only landed two fish, weighing 3 J Ib. ;
both were taken with the phantom where the Umeo
enters the Geutashon Lake. Several Lapps came with
me, very small and dirty fellows, wearing queer red
caps, who were anxious to be told the price of every-
thing, especially of casts and flies, thinking they could
be employed without a rod.

The next day's fishing, which was one of the best
I had in Scandinavia, was only obtained after several
uncomfortable nights and hard days of travel. Behold
me, then, just arrived, dripping from a long day's
march through heavy rain, in a log hut at Umefors,
on the highest of the great lakes of the Umeo, after
plunging through seas of mud, for it had long been
dark, and we had wandered from the track.

Instead of the " midnight day," we were soon to
have the " midday night," for the light nights of the
northern summer had long ceased, and autumn had
come on apace. Long before the hut was reached its
solitary light — for there was but one other hut within
twenty miles — had been seen twinkling through the
rain. It boasted but one room, consisting of the
edifice itself. However, I was given the best bed
and some clean hay. The woman and children slept
on two other beds, and the men on hay upon the floor.

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 83

The wind and rain came in through the broken win-
dow, but no one seemed to mind. The following day
there came a heavy gale from the south-west with
fresh torrents of rain. Kivulets rushed down the
mountain sides. The violence of the wind made it
impossible to continue the journey, for the Swedish
and Norwegian row-boats are of peculiar build, and
in a wind are perfectly unmanageable. If the boat is
evenly weighted, the wind drives it broadside. If the
bow or stern is highest, that end of the boat is driven
round to leeward. I therefore passed my time in
fishing, where the Umeo leaves the first of the two
great Umeo lakes, and wonderful was the sport. Just
as I reached the spot, two large ospreys, fish hawks,
or sea-eagles, were hovering over the water, when
suddenly one made a dash downward like a stone into
the pool, struggling up again instantly with a fish in
its talons, whose orange belly showed it to be a char.
The bird flew away over the lake with its prize, closely
pursued by the other and by a raven, the trio making
a great noise.

Beguiled by such scenes as this, only to be seen in
wild, lone lands, the time passed swiftly and pleasantly
away, until the gale abating allowed the journey to be
resumed.

Meanwhile I applied myself to catching fish with a
couple of large flies, and throwing the line over a big
pool, soon landed thirty-one trout and four splendid
char weighing exactly a pound apiece, which took
the fly in a manner that was very different to the dash-
ing rise of the trout.

G 2

84 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

The char invariably sucked in the fly when it was
deep down in the water, and then the only indication
of their presence was a stubborn resistance, as though
the fly had caught on a rock. Then there came a
brilliant flash of orange crimson as the frightened
fish turned over on its back in its struggles to escape.

Another night was passed in the insufferable log
hut, and next day the rain still fell in torrents. The
wind however had ceased, so the voyage was continued.
Half-way up the lake lie scattered a multitude of
islands, leaving in one place a narrow channel, or
waist, through which the water swiftly glides.

Here were to be seen hundreds of char, the hand-
somest, perhaps, and the best eating of all freshwater
fishes ; they were feeding in the comparatively
shallow water, darting hither and thither, in entire
fearlessness and disregard of the boat, forming a gor-
geous maze of flashing colour with their dark backs
and bright crimson bellies — a sight worth coming
many a thousand miles to see. Some seemed likely to
weigh as much as two pounds. Of course I threw a
fly towards them — a March brown with a short line on
account of the overhanging trees. At first no notice
whatever was taken of it, but soon I had the satis-
faction of seeing a char swim up and inspect the
artificial thing, and appearing satisfied that it seemed
nutritious and good to eat, he opened wide his mouth
and gulped it down.

A tightening of the line surprised him greatly, and
after a short struggle I was able to lift him into the

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 85

boat. In this way seventeen were landed in about an
hour, after which we moved on, for many a long mile of
the great Umeo Lake yet lay before us to be crossed ere
we could reach the hamlet at its farther extremity ;
whence the following day, partly with pack-horses and
partly by carriole, I reached the German Ocean.

Swedish Lapland is inhabited by two separate and
distinct races, namely, the Swedish settlers, or Lapp-
bonders, and the Lapps. The first of these two classes
is by far the most numerous, and is the one with
whom the sportsman will be thrown most in contact.
As he travels through or across this part of Sweden,
at an average speed of fifteen miles per day, or, if he
keeps to the roads, at a speed of forty miles as the
diurnal average, he will sleep in their farm-houses
and hamlets by night ; sometimes in a comparatively
luxurious apartment, set apart for guests, if such an
one exists, or at other times in the single room which
serves as the kitchen, living and sleeping room for the
entire family.

By day, as he makes headway towards his intended
destination, he will be guided and accompanied by one
or more male members of the household who provided
him with accommodation, dependent upon the amount
of his transportable effects; or even, on occasions
when no males of any age are available, by one or
two girls or women as his pack-carriers.

It may always be counted upon as the invariable
rule, when a start has once been fairly accomplished
in any thinly or moderately-thickly populated district

86 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

or country, that the traveller will resemble a species
of animated locomotive exemplifying perpetual mo-
tion. He will never be obliged to stop unless he
wishes to do so at some favoured spot where unusually
large trout are waiting to be captured by the first
allurement containing a hook that has ever been
thrown upon or trailed through their virgin waters,
excepting the enormous red spoon-shaped machine,
or substantial and ponderous wire hooks, which are
occasionally possessed by some neighbouring Lapp-
bonder. But he can journey on unceasingly, like the
Wandering Jew, for ever without even a day's delay,
in any reasonable direction, and at any reasonable
speed. If his coming is welcomed with simple hospi-
tality, his departure will by no means be hindered,
but rather encouraged, in a country where provisions
are not superabundant; and if his visit is an un-
doubted novelty, his presence will also be considered
somewhat in the nature of an anxious responsibility.
Porters will be requisitioned from every quarter, even
the womenfolk, as before mentioned, bearing their
share of the labour if it should be necessary. The
proper sums to be paid for these various conveniences
will generally suggest themselves, with reference to
the relative or comparative cost of travelling in that
particular part of the country, but whatever the
sportsman may deem to be the proper sum will in-
variably be received without question or anything
but evident satisfaction. He will perhaps be the first
genuine arrival from the outer world who has been

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 87

seen for a long period of many consecutive months,
and he mnst consequently be prepared with such
pieces of information as he finds himself able to im-
part in the Swedish or Svensk language, with the aid
of a colloquial phrase-book. But if the tourist in
Swedish Lapland is so constantly associated with the
settlers, or Lapp-bonders, it is but rarely that he falls
in with the Laplanders.

The Lapps, as a markedly distinct and peculiar race,
and as living entirely with, by, and upon their tame
reindeer (or cariboo), with the exception of the periods
when they remain in the neighbourhood of settlements,
have always formed an attraction for the anthropo-
logist. At first sight dirt appears to be their most
prominent characteristic, and next to that their short-
ness, prominent cheek-bones, and long, coarse hair.
Both men and women are often troubled with nervous
afflictions. The women wear leather breeches under
their dresses. The Swedish settlers in Lapland fre-
quently intermarry with the Lapps, who are computed
more or less wealthy according to the number of their
reindeer, a thousand deer being regarded as unusual
wealth, while they are also assessed for taxes in this
respect. They are inclined, in consequence, rather to
under than to over-estimate the number of these
animals which they possess. Among the Lapps them-
selves the most important object taken into con-
sideration on the conclusion of marriage arrangements
is the fortune on either side. Love must be satisfied
to rank as merely an affair of secondary importance,

88 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and in many cases is not taken into account at all.
Many a fine Lapp girl, who has no reindeer, may thus
live and die without any Lapp having spoken to her
of love, while many a remarkable specimen of ugliness
(and this means a great deal) has lovers in abundance,
provided she be rich. Not that the young Lapp
refuses always to listen to the voice of his heart; but
he generally prefers that of reason. The courtship is
somewhat troublesome. The lover, if he can be so
called, proceeds to the parents of the selected girl,
armed with a plentiful supply of spirits and of wed-
ding presents, and states his case at great length,
partly in extempore song and partly in speech, and
the proposal is rejected or accepted there and then.
Being nominally Christians, they are married by the
Swedish priests, and subsequently indulge in a ban-
quet of reindeer meat and cheese, washed down with
large supplies of strong spirit, to which each con-
tributes a share. No knives or forks are used, and
the affair is brought to a conclusion in most cases by
what resembles an Indian pot-latch, or general drunk,
with a promiscuous going to sleep upon the floor. To
avoid becoming intoxicated too soon the guests first
drink melted fat, with which sometimes their faces
are also smeared.

The forests near the Arctic circle, and in the
vicinity of the Eif and Lof fjelds, where I fell in
with a large band of Lapps and reindeer, are often
the scenes of wolf hunts during the winter. The
presence of wolves near the herds of deer is always

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 89

a source of anxiety to the owners, as their most
dangerous enemies, creating great havoc at times
amongst the herds belonging to the mountain Lapps.
A single wolf, they assert, can kill in one night as
many as thirty reindeer, while a band of wolves can
make a rich Lapp poor. If any wolf tracks have
been seen in the neighbourhood of the deer, a watch
is constantly kept, consisting of one man and a couple
of dogs at the very least, relieved at regular intervals.
When the snow has acquired sufficient depth and
softness, then affairs are completely reversed, for,
instead of the wolf hunting the reindeer, it is gene-
rally the Lapp who hunts the wolf.

The alarm being given that wolf tracks or wolves
have been seen in any direction within reach of the
Lapps' camp, there takes place considerable commo-
tion, as the swiftest runners on snow-shoes prepare
for a most exciting chase. The wolf or wolves in
the meantime usually seem to discover that danger
in some shape or other is imminent, and manage,
without loss of time, to acquire a start of at least
two miles. But the track which the wolf leaves
behind him in the deep, soft snow is so unmistakable
and prominent that the hunters can follow it at their
best speed without any risk of losing it through not
following its every sinuosity, or the detours and
windings the animal may have made, prompted by
his lupine inclination or the irregularities of the
ground. If it wishes to preserve its skin, it must
strain every muscle as the chase proceeds, over ice

90 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and stones, and through wild tracts and thick forests,
where in cold blood one would experience a difficulty
in proceeding at even a moderate rate of speed.

If the wolf has been fasting he is supposed to run
faster, and to be able to keep up long- sustained and
more enduring efforts than if he has eaten anything
lately. His pursuers are no ordinary people. Lapps
on snow-shoes are thoroughly in their element ; their
short stature gives them a decided advantage over the
average Norwegian, and in point of mere speed our
wolf makes but a poor show.

With the swiftness of the wind this procession of
short men in blue or fur coats and sugar-loaf shaped
hats, rush through the wood, and dart like an arrow
down steep hills and through thickets where a tall
person would find himself in difficulty, or jump down
ledges several yards in height. During this violent
progress the party has become somewhat dispersed.
Everyone is making supreme efforts to be in front, for
only to the striker of the first blow does the wolf belong,
and to him appertains most or all of the honour. The
leading Lapp is soon close upon his deadly foe, if
matters go right and long stretches of bare or difficult
ground have not intervened to give the animal a chance
of escaping altogether. He deals it a heavy blow
across the loins with his strong, spiked snow-shoe staff,
sufficient merely to disable it, unless there are other
wolves to be pursued, in which case he kills it outright.
Otherwise this operation is deferred until the whole
party of hunters has arrived upon the spot. So much

TEOUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 91

for a Lappish wolf hunt, which, it may safely be
asserted, has been witnessed but by few travellers.

The sportsmen and tourists who make their way
northwards of the Lofoten Islands during the summer,
would certainly in winter find quite a new sensation in
being conveyed by reindeer in a pulka. Duty or incli-
nation, however, generally calls them southward at an
earlier date. Some of the mountain districts which I
crossed seemed promising ground for ryper shooting,
had not the cold weather of the coming winter and the
jealous regulations regarding dogs, having prevented
the addition of a necessary setter, rendered such an
attempt uninviting. In the low flat or forest-lands,
however, a moderate amount of grouse were found,
which number would probably have been largely
augmented but for the above-mentioned provision.

These grouse appeared not unlike the birds known
as blue grouse in Canada, more particularly in their
habit of perching upon trees, in which position one
often discovered them in the first instance.

On the first occasion I fired from too short a range,
being in want of meat, and uncertain if any further
movement on my part would not have the effect of put-
ting the bird up — or down, perhaps, one ought to say.
After the explosion, the distance being deceptive, the bird
might have been said to have disappeared so completely
as to give the impression of having been struck by a
full-sized thunderbolt. A cloud of feathers filled the
air, and the best portions of the breast were found
adhering to a tree some yards away, and were care-

92 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

fully deposited in the game bag. The head, neatly
severed from the trunk, was found reposing on the
moss below, but the remaining parts had totally
vanished, for —

the bird

Was so changed in a moment, 'twas really absurd.

On the next occasion when these wood-ryper were
fallen in with the distance was more carefully chosen.
I experienced much the same difficulty in Alaska,
with the blue grouse. These birds are exceedingly
difficult to find in thick pine forests, and it can only
be accomplished by examining each tree separately
from such a position that it stands out against the
sky, or, better still, so that the sun shall be behind it.
These blue grouse, if they should be in the tree, will
then be plainly seen. But, since it must clearly be
impossible that every tree can be thus examined,
owing to its position and that of other trees, much
time is often consumed, especially in thick, dense
timber, after a most uncomfortable and painful craning
of the vertebral column, without the discovery of any
game. If, however, a family of these grouse should,
after all, be discerned, the whole of them can generally
be secured, if care be taken to dispose first of those
seated upon the lower branches in regular order up-
wards. The one seated near the top of the tree will
complacently watch the immolation of its relations,
turning its head from side to side, until its own doom
arrives.

I remarked that travellers in northern Norway and
Sweden might find a novel excitement in reindeer

TROUT-FISHING IN SWEDISH LAPLAND. 93

sledging. The cream-coloured deer are considered,
rightly or wrongly, to go best in harness. Fabulously
long journeys are recorded, and exceedingly lengthy
ones have undoubtedly been performed of several
hundred consecutive miles in a pulJca. If the Lapp
allows his reindeer to stray away to a great extent
during summer, he collects and guards them, as has
been mentioned, zealously and carefully during winter,
living, as he does, with, by, and off them, so to speak.
Their skins form his tent and part of his clothes. He
makes thread from the tendons, spoons and other im-
plements from the hoofs and horns, as well as glue.
The blood, dried and powdered, forms an important
article of his food.

Eeindeer give but a small amount of milk, but this
amount is unusually rich in consistency, and the Lapp
is very chary with it. He makes cheese, but not
butter, with it, and the dried venison of the reindeer
forms his chief subsistence, which he also trades to
the Norwegians in exchange for various luxuries and
necessaries, including aquavit, of which ardent spirit
he is particularly fond. On first seeing these tame
reindeer one is struck by their diminutive size and
the miserably stunted and sometimes deformed horns
they carry.

The Lapps assert that a reindeer can cause the tines
to appear on its horns at any particular spot by rubbing
that spot with its foot. In support of this they add
that a deer which is blind of one eye will have the
horns on that side deformed through its inability to rub
the required spots, owing to its loss of sight.

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON.

Lake St. John — The Voyage from Liverpool — Birch -bark Canoes — My two
French Canadians— Start from the H.B. Post— A lonely Hamlet—
Peribonca River — Fighting the Gnats — Grand Discharge — Camp on an
Island — Fishing for Land-locked Salmon — A Gale — Lake Kenogami —
Black Flies — Chicoutimi — Trout at the Mouth of the Saguenay —
Tadousac — White Porpoises.

A PLEASANT week was passed in June with the
Hudson Bay Company's officer at the post on Lake
St. John, and then I started in a canoe, with two half-
breeds, for a spin of fifty miles around this inland
sea. I had ample time to dispose of, while waiting
for some friends, and this was the programme that
naturally first suggested itself. I had photographed,
from every possible point of view, the inert relicts of
the Montagu ais tribe, who were camped alongside
the " store," before starting on my voyage of circum-
navigation. There was absolutely nothing else to do,
for it is a wearisome, monotonous country, this north-
ern portion of Quebec Province, with wild sombre
flats and vast forests that stretch away in every
direction, dense, impervious, gloomy, and oppressive.

This lake, however, of St. John is a very remarkable
one, almost perfectly circular, containing a vast body
of water, and in shape like a saucer. The Peribonca,
the Mistassini, the Ashaupmouchouan, and other rivers,
converge into this reservoir, which empties itself into
the Gulf of St. Lawrence under the name of the Sague-

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON.

95

nay Eiver. The railway from Quebec to Lake St. John
is under construction and will soon be completed.*

The ubiquitous and uncomfortable mosquito was at
this very time in his prime; for most Canadians think
any one almost insane who, in the month of June,
exposes himself to the attacks of this horrible winged
scourge infesting the woods of North America un-
necessarily and of his own free will.

But in this same month of June something else was
in its prime, too — namely, the land-locked salmon
fishing in this great solitary Saguenay, that helps to
drain the north-east corner of the continent, and carries
off more water than any other four of its colleagues
added together. I maintain, though I may be mis-
taken, that the majority of the non-travelling public,
rightly or wrongly, hold the opinion, that, for every
sort of sport worth having, " there's no place like
home." When they read piscatorial accounts emanat-
ing from some strange and outlandish foreign place,
then their interest declines. But I shall not in this
instance insult their intelligence by informing them
that the Province of Quebec comes under this heading.
Bather, I hasten to explain that the Saguenay Eiver
is free to the public, although all its tributaries are
not, and may be reached in ten days from Liverpool,
for an outlay of about £13. Whether it is worth any
one's while to go there for the fishing I will not
undertake to say. I simply give my own experiences.

The birch-bark canoe is in many ways an awkward

* The line is now open.

TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

boat, yet it has its advantages. Slender and easily
broken, the materials for repairing it are yet to be
found without difficulty, for an Indian has only to
walk a dozen yards, maybe, before he sees a tree
suitable to his purpose. He selects any broad, white-
stemmed birch-tree. Four cuts with a knife, and he
has enough of Nature's patent flexible waterproof
cloth to repair a dozen canoes. This is fastened on
with gum and resin, which he heats over the camp
fire. There is yet again another advantage. A birch -
bark canoe sixteen feet in length, which is of sufficient
capacity to accommodate six persons, is capable, when
properly weighted, of being paddled by one man ; and
so light and strong, that he would be able, after
emptying it of its contents, to swing it, unaided, on
to his back, and, without any difficulty or need of
resting, carry it for a considerable distance. I was
enabled to purchase, for about twenty dollars, a new
canoe, specially made by the Indians for the Hudson
Bay Company, and had it carried down and launched
on the lake to accustom myself to this new mode of
conveyance. Now, an empty canoe is a decidedly
ticklish thing for one person to manage. Having,
therefore, cautiously pushed it off, I seated myself at
one end, which is the only place, excepting the bottom,
where one can dispose oneself. The other end pointed
to the zenith, the canoe being empty of luggage.
This seemed very uncomfortable, and hardly the
correct way to work it. Then came a gust of wind,
which swept round the elevated end in an instant,

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON.

97

mdering the equilibrium precarious. To get the
head to point once more towards the wind was
impossible, so the canoe drifted back to shore amid
the jeers and laughter of the Indian squaws, while I
tried to appear as though I had forgotten something
and wanted to land. Thus I discovered that to
"paddle one's own canoe" one must kneel carefully
in the centre, taking care not to touch the thin skin
of bark between the wooden ribs, and that an empty
canoe is exceedingly capsizable. After loading up
and making a start on our circumnavigating trip I
found one could move with confidence and safety, and
in a few minutes I was even able to blow my nose
without a qualm. One of my two men was partly,
the other wholly — though it sounds paradoxical to
say so — half-breed. The former was called Thomas
Larouche, and was a Frenchman with Indian blood,
who had married, and had children by, an Indian
squaw. The other was called Olivier Leauniere, and
both were related to almost every one within fifty
miles of the place. Nothing could exceed their good
temper and willingness to oblige. The French-
Canadian, as a rule, is easy to get on with, being
polite and generous; but I am not so sure I should
be willing to depend on him at a crisis, or that one
should trust him farther than one could see him. His
volatile temperament and easy-going disposition make
him a cheery companion.

Quebec and its neighbourhood is mainly peopled by
French Canadians, and the region of the Saguenay and

H

98 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the thinly populated district round Lake St. John
entirely so.

Mr. Cummings and his wife waved me a kindly
adieu from the shore as we paddled off on our tour
round the lake. My luggage was piled in the centre :
not very weighty, and consisting mainly of provisions
for three weeks, tents, and the usual outfit. I, myself,
on a couple of air-cushions, sat on the floor of the
canoe, and the two men were seated at either ex-
tremity, Thomas steering from the stern, neither his
tongue nor his paddle ever stopping for one moment.

So large is its expanse of water, that Lake St. John
possesses an horizon like the sea, and, except at its
narrowest part, the eye cannot distinguish the oppo-
site shore. The country presents a monotonous uni-
formity, and is clothed throughout with pine and birch
woods; it lies low and level, and no mountains worthy
of the name are visible except towards the north,
in the farthest distance. The water was a good six
feet above its usual level, and as we coasted along the
edge, half- submerged bushes appeared far out in the
lake, and occasionally the twigs of some hidden tree
grated unpleasantly along the bottom of the canoe,
making one wonder if some broken branch might not
rip up the delicate birch bark skin.

The first river to be reached was the Mistassini.*
Near the inflow is situated S. Prive, the most

* Many miles to the north lies Lake Mistassini, concerning which
such marvellous reports had been lately spread, as though it were almost
unexplored and of enormous extent, by persons ignorant of the fact that
it has been surveyed and that the Hudson's Bay Company have had a
trading-post there for years.

DATS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON,

99

northerly inland village in the province. It is quite
invisible behind the pine-trees, and is probably small
and poverty-stricken. A man was engaged in a boat
fishing for pike-perch (Fr. doree) with bits of fish,
while before camping we managed to get a couple of
fair-sized trout with bait. Hardly ever are trout
caught in the lake itself, but occasionally maskalonge
fall to the angler's lure. The gnat plague, as I have
before observed, was at its height. One comes, after
a lapse of time, even in this matter, to forget past
discomforts. People assert that one can become
accustomed to gnat stings ; but in the worst places —
in June, at any rate — this is impossible.

Next day, at midday, we arrived at a hamlet in a
bay of the lake, the only one for nearly twenty miles,
and a more lonely and uninviting spot could hardly
be imagined. Earely, if ever, had any one visited
these people, except perhaps an Indian or a stray
trapper. My wish to photograph the hut, of course,
produced much excitement, and the women disap-
peared into an inner chamber, but not to hide them-
selves. It did not occur to me at the moment that
they had gone to array themselves in their best, but I
attributed their proceedings to diffidence, until they
at length emerged, looking exceedingly uncomfortable,
in tawdry finery that had evidently seldom, if ever,
seen the light before. For, indeed, for whom and for
whose benefit were they ever to find the opportunity
for beautifying themselves ? Copies of the photo-
graphs have been sent to them from England, probably

H2

100 TKAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

to their intense gratification. After this ceremony
had been completed, away over the inland sea again
we paddled, for I was longing to reach the fishing
ground. Close by, the large Ashaupmouchouan
Eiver helped to swell the already high waters of the
lake. By this river, as well as by the Mistassini, has
the country to the northward been reached. But it is
a wild, barren land, inhabited only by uninteresting
Indian tribes, and attractive neither to the sportsman,
agriculturist nor traveller. The Peribonca Eiver had
to be made that evening, for, owing to the unusual
height of the water, absolutely no dry camping
ground was obtainable on the borders of the lake,
a state of things quite sufficient to put backbone into
the strokes of the paddles, not to mention the hosts of
winged scorpions that made life itself purgatory under
the quiet pine-trees. My men sang and talked as
they paddled along, for the French Canadian is the
most irrepressible creature under the sun, and always
gay and merry, even under the most sombre and dis-
tressing circumstances, always joking and on good
terms with himself and all the rest of creation, but
hardly ever 'with a penny in his pocket.' As my two
men paddled along with a will the Peribonca was
reached long before dark, and we found time to fish
while searching for a suitable camping ground, and
succeeded in landing a pike-perch 3J Ibs., a pike (Fr.
brocket) of 2| Ibs., and lastly a land-locked salmon (or
ouininnish) of 3 Jibs., all weighed, of course, by machine.
No more shall be said about gnats ; they shall " go

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON. 101

without saying." This shall be the last time they
are mentioned. For this night their performances
eclipsed all that had gone before.

They are indeed the curse of June and July in
Canadian woods, which they render in places all but
uninhabitable. Better far the rattlesnakes in Arizona,
or the grizzly bears and scorpions in California and
Mexico. I had been almost devoured by mosquitoes
in Lapland, and was thoroughly armed with carefully
wired-out head nets and tar and lard ointment. But
the effect resembled that produced by Mrs. Parting-
ton upon the Atlantic Ocean, when she tried to keep
it back with her mop. Presently we came upon a
lumberman's old and ruined cabin, where some
dozens of swallows, sworn foes to the mosquitoes,
were darting and skimming to and fro, the ground
being clear of trees. This was evidently our best
chance for any peace or rest.

Thy voice is on the rolling air,
I hear thee where the waters run ;
Thou fliest at the rising sun,

And at the setting thou art there.

Thy numbers then we may not guess,

And tho' I seem in hand and eye

To feel thy sting, oh painful fly,
I do not, therefore, hate thee less.

My hate involves the hate before,
My hate is vaster passion now,
Though made by God and nature, thou,

I do not therefore love thee more.

I was proud to be able to record that angry cries of

102 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

agony from Thomas and Olivier, as comparatively
seasoned inhabitants, broke the silence of the evening.
I knew, too, that they would be only too delighted to
hasten away from the dreadful spot at daybreak. An
enormous fire was kept burning all night.

With clothes and veil more or less covered with tar
and lard ointment, I fell asleep, and heard, dreamily,
through the tent walls, such cries as " Oh ! Olivier,
tfest terrible, je n'ai pas dormi." The banks of the
Peribonca are, in detail, lovely, but from a distance
they present a sameness of appearance which is de-
cidedly unattractive.

That same evening we reached the fishing ground,
called the Grand Discharge, which is the point where
the greater part of the Saguenay leaves Lake St. John
in a series of rapids, the home of nearly all the land-
locked salmon in the river. At any rate, they are rarely
caught elsewhere. The other portion leaves the lake
at Small Discharge, four miles to the west.

"We selected for our camp an island quite free from
winged terrors, lying in the very gateway, in the
centre of the great river, past which on each side the
current ran with deep, eddying swirls, while half-a-
mile lower down, behind a wooded bend, could be
heard the first of the series of falls that herald the
impassable (without portages) portion of the river.

The backwater swept us round into a sloping, sandy
bay, and Olivier jumped out and hauled the canoe
gently up. It was a small island, about twenty yards
across, without trace of any previous encampment.

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON.

103

Pine and birch growing among moss-covered boulders
offered abundance of firewood. Emptying out the lug-
gage, Thomas and I paddled off to try for the famous
land-locked salmon, while Olivier stayed to make the
camp. Query — Why are these fish called land-locked?
The first answer that would suggest itself to a con-
trarious mind would be because they usually are
found where they have free access to the sea, which is
actually the case here ; but there are, no doubt,
exceptions to this. Over the lake in the distance, the
shores trended away north and east, and dissolved into
a dim line of pine trees. "We first commenced in a
broad current near the left bank, where it was
evidently of considerable depth, and where fish coast-
ing round the lake would first strike moving water, for
it lay at the very commencement of the outflow. At
this spot almost all my fish were captured, twenty-nine
altogether, weighing ninety-eight pounds, as well as
eighteen fish of other kinds, in three days' fishing.
These last were principally pike and pike-perch, the
latter a villainous-looking and ferocious fish, with a
mouth like a shark. For an hour the fun was fast and,
occasionally, it was furious. We soon found the
aforesaid piece of water was the " daisy," and I am
inclined to think that not once were the phantoms (for
that was what I used) trailed across the current with-
out one, if not both, rods being " delightfully agitated."
But Thomas bungled in a most unskilful manner
while endeavouring to secure the first victim. I had
brought it alongside the canoe — it was a large fish, of

104 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

five pounds probably, and as it was leaping and
covering us with water, he struck at it and missed it
three times with the gaff, and at length touched and
broke the line. At first the thought of a capsized
canoe and of two men floating down the current, cling-
ing to air cushions, was inseparably connected in my
mind with playing a big fish, and especially with
gaffing one out of an unsteady canoe. The canoe
proved steadier, however, than I had anticipated.

In an hour the gathering dusk of night compelled
us to cease and turn the canoe towards the bright fire
that Olivier had made on the island, and from which
we had never been farther distant than a hundred
yards, with six land-locked salmon, the largest five
and a half pounds, the others each about a pound less,
and two pike-perch (doree\ livelier than ever, and
snapping their serrated jaws with vindictive vitality.
"We had but two other touches, and lost one fish — all
in an hour.

For three days we enjoyed admirable sport, landing
none over six pounds, although they are said to run to
eight pounds ; but, on the other hand, none under two
pounds, besides doree and pike, but no trout. I
determined that the next morning we must leave.
Olivier had meantime smoked over the fire thirteen
salmon under a wonderful shed made of birch-bark to
keep off the rain.

" Homme propose mais Dieu dispose; " for next day,
as we were preparing to start, a breeze sprang up which
made it unsafe to embark in a canoe even to leeward

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON. 105

of the island. Great rollers broke upon the beach, and
compelled us to move our camp to higher ground,
though still under the shelter of the trees. We were
monarchs of all we surveyed, or, at least, all we could
walk on, imprisoned and quarantined by Dame Nature.
Thomas diverted himself by floating logs from the end
of the island down the current with a long line and
baits attached, which were always swept round and
returned by the backwater with most of the baits gone.
However, some good fish were caught on baited lines
tied to upright poles planted among the rocks. On
the evening of the second day Thomas and Olivier
managed to get across the narrow channel which sepa-
rated us from the mainland in order to procure some
birch bark to repair the canoe. During their absence
the wind, which had lulled, increased, and caused them
to hurry back, giving them a most difficult crossing.
Next morning it had sufficiently abated to allow us to
leave our island, which had been our home for five
days, though I had only been able to angle during
three.

As we were starting, three canoes, with three men
and three boys, came by, on their way, as they in-
formed us, to their summer quarters on the Eiviere
de la Pipe, and who were able to give us salt, of which
we were in need, in exchange for salmon. On the
bottom of one of the canoes lay a pike of apparently
151bs. For some Canadians the inland north-eastern
territories — for instance, Labrador — have a vast
attraction. But one is rarely repaid, except in fishing,

106 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

for any excursion into these uninhabited places. Game
of any sort is scarce in the forests. Lake St. John is
one of the most accessible of the eastern regions, and
is consequently occasionally visited by the tourist, who
will soon be more frequently observed when he can
make the journey in a Pullman car.

I had to get back to Chicoutimi, which is the 'head'
of the regular steamboat navigation on the Saguenay
from Quebec. The river was too high and violent to be
descendable by canoe, though this may be done in July
or when the water is at a lower level than it was at
that time. The choice lay at present between the
queer four-wheel carriages, like a box on two planks,
along the most atrocious road imaginable, and a some-
what roundabout way by canoe. I chose the latter.
This was to ascend the Belle Kiviere, which is by no
means a very lovely riviere. It seemed a mere flooded
ditch, and cost us more than one day's hard paddling
against a turbid current. Along the banks lay scat-
tered a fair number of French Canadian farms, all
built after the same model, and all the people terribly
poor, because at present they have no convenient
market.

Then, after a few portages, we traversed, by canoe,
Lake Kenogami, shut in by lofty hills. A lake so
long and narrow that, although the length from end
to end is thirty miles, the average breadth is less than
one mile. A few trout of fair size may be caught
here, and I found excellent fishing in what is marked
Biviere de Chicoutimi in the maps, though that is not

DAYS WITH THE LAND-LOCKED SALMON. 107

the local name. Here I first became acquainted with
the celebrated black fly, in appearance like a very small,
bard and active common house-fly. The bite differs
from that of the gnat in only becoming irritating on the
second or third day. Providentially they are confined
to certain localities. They told me at Chicoutimi of a
Scotchman who neglected ordinary precautions, and
allowed himself to be extensively bitten while fishing,
and consequently two days afterwards was driven
almost out of his mind by the feverish irritation
caused by these minute and insidious insects. We
shot down the lower Chicoutimi, which joins the Sa-
guenay near Chicoutimi, called locally the Riviere
du Bassin. The fishing is very poor, as are also the
French settlers whose farms line the banks. Stopping
at one of these hamlets where a horse was procurable
I sent the men back with the canoe and completed the
journey by cart. They wished to continue our voyage
and paddle down the Saguenay, but I considered the
scenery could best be seen from the deck of a steamer.
I remained at Tadousac for some days, a watering- place
much frequented by the Quebec people and situated
at the mouth of the river. The so-called sea trout of
the estuary, about which so much is advertised, were,
I found, common brown trout from the numerous
tributaries of the river. They had found their way
to brackish water, and grown out of all knowledge,
while they had also become silver-coated and vora-
cious, and lost their coloured spots. No doubt real
sea-trout are taken later on in the season, though 1

108 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

actually saw none. Mr. Joseph Badford, an English-
man, who superintends the Government Artificial Sal-
mon Hatching Establishment at Tadousac, and has a
thorough knowledge of the habits of fish in the river,
informed me that in July and August the caplin
(which I believe to be a kind of smelt) ascend the
river, coasting along the precipitous shores, and that
the sea and hybrid trout follow them. These latter
will then, but not till then, take the fly; but,
curiously enough, only the small trout will do so.
The larger ones must still be fished for with the sand-
eel (elanqori). These sand-eels are caught in miniature
staked brushwood weirs on the sand as the tide
retires.

Some distance out in the gulf a grampus was blow-
ing and snorting, and attracting by the process a
crowd of spectators, for even in the Gulf of St. Law-
rence a grampus is not seen every day. At the same
time what had seemed to me ever since my arrival at
Quebec a most mysterious occurrence was satisfactorily
explained. I allude to the appearance of apparently
small animated icebergs. Imagine a lump of white
opaque glacier ice rising slowly partly above the
surface of the sea, and quietly sinking out of sight
again, and you have a picture of that curious fish, the
snow-white porpoise.

MEN AND MANNEES IN THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS,
AND SPOET IN WESTEEN CATTLE LAND.

Scenery of the North Platte — Expedition after Trout — My First Antelope —
I am Lost —Friendly Miners — Evening in the Miners' Camp — Thunder-
storms— Antelope Shooting — The Round-up Outfit — In Camp with the
Cowboys — Hunting in Bates' Hole — My First Blacktail — Medicine Bow
Range — My First Wapiti — Herding the Cattle — A Stampede — A
Broncho -buster — Life at a Ranche — Wapiti Shooting— Mule -deer.

THE Platte Eiver, on the banks of which most of the
ranches in Central Wyoming are situated, is already
too overcrowded, for their own well-being — by cattle.

The scenery, until the impression wears off, reminds
those who have seen these treeless plains, of the deserts
of South and of North Africa, although in reality
very different.

Looking down upon the North Platte Eiver in
Wyoming from the high limestone cliffs south of the
Union Pacific Eailway, an apparent Sahara lies spread
below, faintly tinged with yellow from the sage-brush
and bunch-grass that grow sparsely over it, and
stretching away for leagues as far as the sight can
reach in every direction. The blue river and green
cottonwood trees lie stretched out like an emerald line,
and contrast in an extraordinary manner with the
plains, reminding one strangely of an oasis in the
desert; but the grass on the seeming deserts afford
food for cattle that was unsuspected until a few
years ago; in many places this pasturage is get-

110 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

ting terribly eaten down, and several stock-owners
have been compelled to seek more thinly populated
districts elsewhere, and to strike away in the hope of
finding good pastures farther north in Montana, and
even over the frontier in British territory.

As regards food, too, fresh meat is not often to be
had at the ranches, excepting of course beef, and that
usually from anything but a marketable steer. Barely
is an antelope killed near at hand, although it seems
improbable that they will ever be quite exterminated.

As regards the larger kinds of game, elk are very
scarce and almost unobtainable, although deer are
tolerably numerous among the woods on river banks.

Some of the plains are alkaline, and excessively
dazzling to the eye, and render the streams that
traverse them unpotable.

I heard a Westerner enumerate prairie dogs, gophers
and chipmunks as the only inhabitants of the " alkali
plains," but he might have added rattlesnakes, owls,
horned toads, sage hens (the most foolish bird in
creation), jack rabbits and coyotes ; and on the foot-
hills foxes and antelopes, among the larger animals
that one comes across occasionally.

About thirty miles west of this point, on the North
Platte Biver, one reaches the summit of the water-
shed, or divide, flecked with a few patches of snow,
rising to a height of over ten thousand feet, but,
owing to the general elevation of the whole country,
not appearing to reach that altitude.

From here I made four separate expeditions, the

,

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. Ill

last being far away towards Colorado. My first ex-
pedition was mainly a ladies' camp for the purpose of
fishing in the Mallory, a small mountain tributary of
Green Eiver. Strange to say, in the North Platte,
which flows past the doors of numerous ranches, are
found no trout whatever, although it appears to
possess every requisite for a trout stream. But as
soon as the divide is crossed, one can be sure of
finding trout. Farther north trout are found in the
streams on the Atlantic side, as well as on the
Pacific side of the divide, but here only on the latter.
This being the case, we of course went westward
for our fishing. Our party consisted of two ladies,
two " girls," " Will" (one of the "boys"), "Frank"
(the general manager of a well-known cattle com-
pany), and myself; and the "outfit" consisted of
three four-wheel buggies, and about nine horses.

In our excursion we camped the first night near the
divide. Next day Frank described to me the position
of the fishing ground, which was to be reached that
evening, and I started off alone, upon a salmon-
coloured brancho or mustang named Pete, to try and
kill an antelope, not intending to lose sight of the
outfit if I could help it.

The country became more wooded as I proceeded,
the mountains being on the left, and interminable
plains on the right, stretching in terraces as far as the
eye could reach, beyond the Union Pacific Eailway,
now fifty miles away. Herds of antelopes scoured
across the plains out of shot of my rifle.

112 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

At length, however, I was successful in obtaining
the necessary supply of meat, by killing my first ante-
lope or pronghorn after a successful stalk; and secur-
ing the haunches, I followed the waggon tracks, and
soon saw our party some distance ahead engaged
in cutting tent-poles, as there were none obtainable
nearer the camping ground which they intended
to reach under Frank's guidance that evening. This
was the last I saw of them that day. Immediately
afterwards I stalked and secured another antelope,
and now, heavily laden with meat, continued follow-
ing the waggon tracks till I came to a spot where
they had evidently left the road (known as the Chero-
kee trail), and had turned down to cross a steep gully.
The country at this point was very hilly, and thickly
covered with sage, while the ground was dry, and
therefore showed no wheel marks, excepting at the
bottoms of the various small " gulches," where it
was damper and softer. I next climbed a hill, or
rather I made Pete do so, to his great disgust, but
from the summit no living creature was visible,
except thousands of antelope, some standing within
fifty yards. I was completely lost and the shades
of night were falling apace. However, I concluded,
as my party must have passed on one side or other of
a steep hill in front, that I should there find the
missing wheel marks. But fate decided otherwise,
for just then I caught sight of two stags, both mule-
deer, with, as it seemed, particularly fine horns, the
largest of which I determined should be mine, for

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 113

the sake of both the meat and the antlers. The
animals seemed to have heard something, and had
concealed themselves in a small patch of thick bushes,
leaving, however, the tips of their horns plainly
visible. A high wind was blowing, and it had begun
to rain, with heavy thunder. Nothing was therefore
easier than to approach them unheard, and I actually
got within three yards of where they were standing,
and, judging by the horns where the body of the
biggest was, fired ; when, to my astonishment, with a
tremendous crashing, both deer fell down into the
bushes, where, somewhat to my annoyance (for I only
wanted one) I found both lying dead. Worse still,
I omitted, in my ignorance, to " clean " either of them,
so that, when I subsequently found our party, they
considered the meat useless, as not having been gral-
loched within half an hour.

The horns, too, were equally unserviceable as tro-
phies, as I was annoyed to find that they were still " in
velvet." Hurrying back to Pete, whom I had left
standing with the rein on the ground, I made for the
side of the hill, but could find no tracks whatever, so
climbed the hill itself, from the top of which I decided
that the outfit must have passed by one of two gulches,
towards which I started at a " lope " (for Pete could
never be got to go any faster). Eain was now falling
heavily, and all traces that might have been left had
long since become obliterated. After travelling on
for ten miles, and scaring herds of antelope in every
direction, it commenced to get dark, and I began to

i

114 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

prosecute a search for a shelter in which to spend the
night and to speculate on the chances of the few
matches in my pocket being damp, and whether I
should leave Pete, as I had no hobbles, with his saddle
and bridle on all the time. I then caught sight of
what seemed to be a column of smoke rising out of
some timber about twelve miles off, and I turned
towards it at once in a more hopeful frame of mind.
There I arrived at last, and found half a dozen large
tents and as many waggons, but evidently, as I could
see, not belonging to the party for which I was in
search. No one was visible, though horses were
picketed all around in considerable numbers. After
shouting for some time, several heads appeared at the
openings, and I was informed, in answer to my
enquiries, that no "outfit" had passed that way.
Presently, from one of the covered waggons, a tall
bearded man, who was evidently the "boss," shouted
what for the moment sounded like "Be off, I say;
be off." I soon found he had really said " Get off; "
and a longer acquaintance with the West would have
taught me that a stranger always meets with the
kindest hospitality whenever he stands in need of it,
more especially at a "Western miners' camp, for such
I discovered was the character of the party I had
chanced to find camped here.

Many a laugh have I had since with my then host,
who I found was Mr. Foote, the well-known saddle-
maker of Eawlins, camping out to do a little speculat-
ing in placer- mining for a change, and who most hos-

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 115

pitably entertained me. " If," he remarked, as we
parted, " you forget my name, you'll see it written
on your saddle."-

Having thus fortunately escaped the necessity of
passing the night under the lee of some rock, I felt
only too glad to accept Mr. Foote' s invitation to stay,
while he impressed upon me that my party was lost,
not I. I was informed that higher up were many more
claims staked out, and that as yet the gold (for these
were placer mines) had not been found in sufficient
quantities to pay. A large number of miners had
arrived during the last few days, and formed a pretty
hard crowd, as it is called out West. After supper
the talk round the fire was all of reaching bed rock,
of disputed claims, of washing and panning out, of
quicksilver, staking out claims, and the prospect of
finding the " colour " in the surrounding country.

Then came a story from Foote of the cow that
strayed away from his friend's ranche into the timber
six times, and which he was telegraphed for to track
each time at ten dollars a time, and which he found
the last time caught up and strangled by the rope
fastened to her neck.

One of the miners had on a pair of buckskin pants,
which he was wearing and drying at the same time in
front of the fire. As they dried, they gradually drew
up till he looked as though his knees were bent ready
for a spring. " If you're going to jump," shouted
Foote, " why in tarnation don't you jump ? " Then a
well-known raconteur was sent for from a set of claims

i2

116 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

higher up the river. That night I slept in Foote's
waggon and before I left was taken round to see the
claims, each with irrigating ditch and boards, in the
thick undergrowth by the river.

Next day, with Mr. Foote, after a considerable de-
tour, I at length found my party camped about six
miles off. They, too, had been prosecuting a search
for me in various directions without success. Mrs.

M , quite the Diana of the West, had been out

stalking antelope, and had secured a supply of veni-
son. All "Western ladies mount their horses unassisted,

and Mrs. M , besides hunting antelope and other

game alone on a mustang, was also in the habit of
skinning, quartering, and bringing back the meat
herself on her saddle.

A doe antelope used to come regularly every even-
ing to lick at an alkaline deposit close to one of our
camps, and was, of course, left unmolested.

Frank devoted himself to fishing, and caught nearly
a hundred trout with chunks of antelope meat on a
large hook tied to a string. Though not shy, trout
were not numerous.

A curious meteorological phenomenon was the
regular appearance of three or four thunderstorms
every afternoon. When I returned in September,
however, to the same spot, these had entirely ceased,
and hardly any rain fell.

They seemed to be particularly attracted by the
mountain ranges near the divide, since a few miles
farther east they hardly ever occurred. The first

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 117

peals of thunder began to be heard at about half-past
two in the afternoon and. the storm arrived from the
west, with increasing energy and wonderful punctu-
ality, at about three o'clock. Of course, one generally
managed to be in camp at that hour, and always
noted whether it was late or in advance of its usual
time. It was composed of a succession of smaller
storms which succeeded one another without ' any
intermission, and the rain, hail, lightning, and thunder
were appalling. Occasionally, though the rumble of
heaven's ordnance was almost unbroken, there came
magnificent peals of silence. Once also during the
night a flash passed into the ground with a simul-
taneous and explosive clap of thunder, which, judging
by the sound, seemed to have struck only a yard or
two from the tents.

One of the most violent of these curious storms
caught me when I was some distance from camp in
the open prairie, far from any shelter. "Western horses
never will face a storm, and at the most trivial smat-
tering of rain they wheel round at once and stand
with their tails to the wind till it is over.

Pete was heavily loaded with my knife and rifle,
and with antelope meat, heads and horns, all of which
things I knew were " conductors," and thought it advis-
able to keep away some distance, especially when cer-
tain pillars of cloud, from which the lightning streamed
incessantly, came travelling up with the wind.

One day, on going to cut some meat to fry for
dinner, I found a large frog, about half the size of the

118 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

well-known bull-frog, seated in the centre of a piece
of raw antelope hide, from which it was catching the
flies with wonderful speed and precision with its long
tongue, which it darted out with lightning rapidity.
It must have caught hundreds, for it appeared quite
distended. Perhaps the most wonderful fact in con-
nection with its performance was the manner in which
its back, which was yellow, was marked with black
by Nature in exact imitation of flies stationed on it,
and seemingly answering admirably to attract flies,
whether so intended by Nature or not.

On my next expedition, a week later, to the same
spot, and with the same object, namely, trout fishing,
we were all Englishmen — five of us. The fishing was
certainly not so successful, but I easily obtained the full
number of antelope heads I had decided on obtaining.
On the whole, we were fortunate with the horses,
though on one occasion one that was picketed broke
away during the night and made for " home," fol-
lowed by those which were hobbled. All were even-
tually recovered, excepting one, which turned up some
months later, near the very same spot.

I had several exciting stalks after antelope; the
others thought fishing preferable. The only antelope
I wounded without securing was one which I followed
on horseback for over five miles. While out of my
sight for a moment it seems to have lain down in the
place of another antelope, which I followed for some
distance before finding out my mistake. I must have
almost ridden over the original wounded one, which

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 119

I found again before it had time to seek a fresh
hiding place. Seeing it was discovered it got up at
once, while I was yet at some distance, and managed
to conceal itself in some manner in a crevice; and,
though the whole country was comparatively bare, it
succeeded, finally, in escaping in a manner I never
was able to understand.

The vitality of a full-grown antelope is extraor-
dinary. "While cutting up an old buck, the heart
continued beating, since the blood issued in spurts
from the severed arteries after decapitation ; and the
fore-leg kept moving after the hams and * tender-loin '
had also been cut off, which last continued to contract
for some minutes after separation from the ribs.
Great numbers of antelope are wounded without being
brought to bag, from the use of the *45 "Winchester
magazine rifle, which carries a heavy bullet, but the
charge of powder is not sufficient for an animal of
such vitality. The idea held by some people seems to be
as regards hunting antelope, to ' pump ' as much lead
as possible into the centre of a herd, on the chance of
killing a few. Englishmen, however, hold that this
is unsportsmanlike. Yet, I have seen an American
lady do this, without any idea that it was cruel.
Unless hit in a vital part, antelope will not falj, and
if they do, frequently rise again.

An antelope on one occasion fell to my first shot,
and on my getting within a few yards, rose and
made off. I fired two more shots ; one entered the
centre of each ham from behind, and broke both

120 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

legs on each side. Even then it was not possible to
cut the animal's throat without another shot through
the heart.

After a few days in camp, like a sort of prolonged
picnic, with plenty of fire-lighting and wood-fetching,
of hobbling, picketing, saddling, finding and driving
horses, of cooking, skinning, baking, bathing, fishing,
and hunting, we returned to the ranche.

The day before leaving old Jim Eaker " turned
up," a well-known Eocky Mountain trapper and
Indian scout ; he was in search of some strayed
horses. He informed us that many years ago but
little rain fell on the divide at this point, which is
sometimes said now to be the cradle of all the storms
that cross the continent. On our return journey the
buggy broke or became temporarily disabled more
than once, owing to the strains to which it was
subjected, finally parting altogether from the horses
in a ditch. We arrived, however, at length, and
found the next l round-up ' camped and on the point
of starting, and consisting of several outfits, amount-
ing to a hundred and fifty or sixty horses and nine
or ten ' boys,' besides the f bed ' and l cook ' wag-
gons, with the probability that it might return in
twenty days. Cooking was in progress, and several
1 boys ' were galloping after refractory horses, yelling
in a good-tempered way. I never saw a Westerner
ill-treat a horse for giving trouble to catch or to
rope ; that he takes as natural. The very oldest
and quietest broncho will never allow himself to

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 121

be lassoed without doing his best to dodge the
descending noose. Each of the ' boys ' owns abun-
dant bedding, and a white waterproof tarpaulin or
waggon-cover-sheet, which are carried in the bed-
waggon. Notwithstanding the admirable climate,
rheumatism is exceedingly common in the West.

Sometimes 'the boys,' if unable to get back to
camp by nightfall, have nothing better to cover them
than the saddle-blanket, while ' Broncho Bill ' is fond
of relating how he and i Boney ' were once found
sleeping under a barn-door.

Next day, with a waggon and team and several
spare horses, I started to meet a friend at a station
on the Union Pacific Railway, after which we both
proceeded northwards on a hunting expedition, as
well as on business connected with stock-raising.

Although * Broncho Bill,' whom M had engaged

as ' hunter/ had not yet turned up, we amassed con-
siderable information relative to the cattle business,

and arrived at Creek after several days' travel,

on our way to join the round-up from there.

The moment dinner at the ranche was concluded
we pressed on once more to renew the search after
our round-up, which we were well aware was camped
somewhere to the north-east and within fifteen miles.
The waggon and spare hunting horses had been sent
on to wait for us at Point of Rocks, a well-known
local landmark. So we harnessed the waggon-horses
once more, which had been picketed to graze, and
' pulled out ' without delay.

122 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

I had been some weeks in the country, and had
already secured as many antelope heads as I wished
to take away with me, but had not yet 4 finished '
with the other kinds of game, and, indeed, as regards
bear and the wild sheep, or bighorn, could see no
prospect of doing so.

My friend, however, had only lately arrived in the
country, and as it was, like mine, his first visit, he
wished, of course, to secure a couple of heads of the
common American antelope or pronghorn, which will,
probably, long continue to exist in abundance on the
plains ; but on the other hand the elk, or wapiti, will
have been exterminated like the buffalo, unless heavy
licences are made necessary, or a stop is in some way
put to the indiscriminate hide-hunting which still goes
on ; for the laws concerning hide-exportation from
certain territories are of no practical effect. I will
call my friend, as he prefers it, not by his own name,
but by that by which he was known among the
cow-boys of the round-up whom we accompanied for
some days, namely, the King. The King, therefore,
* started } out with one of ( the boys ' after pronghorn
antelope.

He was unsuccessful in killing any antelope that
day, though he did so later on. I had determined on
shooting no more antelope myself, but took turns with
1 Boler ' (who, in addition to waggon driving, was en-
gaged at forty dollars a month to cook) in driving.
Eoad there was none, though faint tracks of the round-
up waggon wheel-marks were occasionally visible

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 123

across the sage -brush- covered plain. The country re-
sembled nine- tenths of Montana, Wyoming, or Ne-
vada territories, and may be described in very few
words. Imagine, then, little six-inch bushes of sage-
brush, with an apparently thin smattering of bunch-
grass and other of the sixty varieties of grasses which
are said to grow on the stock-feeding lands of the
"West. Imagine them growing uniformly and scantily
over vast and never-ending hills and plains, oftener
than not without a single tree in sight or a speck of
green to relieve the weary eye, tired with the mono-
tonous grey, and dazzled by the white dusty earth ;
the air so clear that distance cannot be calculated by
the relative dimness of objects, for the farthest are as
distinct as the nearest. Soon a cloud of dust rises
from behind a distant hill, and we come upon the
round-up l outfit ? (everything out "West being termed
an l outfit '), a t bunch ' of five hundred cattle (cows,
calves, and two and three-year-old steers), guarded
by a solitary horseman. A quarter of a mile distant
stand two large tents and three waggons, with the
smoke of a large fire, and a herd of a hundred and
odd horses. "We had at last reached Canyon Creek.
Among the rest we found the younger of the two

C -s, and two other Englishmen, < doing cowboy,'

or * learning cow-punching ; ' and, while initiating
themselves into the cattle business, thoroughly enjoy-
ing the wild, free, stirring, and healthy life. Next
day we moved on with the whole l outfit J to Dry
Creek. Not a promising name, but all the same

124 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

with an excellent supply of water, where an enor-
mous correl (accent on the last syllable) had been
constructed. A correl is a circular enclosure, built
immensely strong, of timber, in order to resist the
shock of imprisoned herds of horses or cattle. The
< round-up ' is the outfit that makes periodical ex-
cursions after steers for market about once every six
weeks from July to October.

A cow-puncher out on the round-up expects to
be employed for about four weeks on the actual
rounding-up of the steers or cattle generally, and
if he should be wanted to help in ' shipping ' the
three-year-olds to Chicago, he may expect another
fortnight's work. The ' round-ups ' follow each other
in quick succession. Indeed, one outfit may have
' started out ' before the foreman and his assistants
have returned from depositing the preceding lot of
cattle in the market.

Several different outfits usually join and work to-
gether— namely those belonging to the neighbouring
ranches, which have, of course, each their own bed-
waggon and tent, but may be served by the same
cook and cook waggon. The day's work is laid down
beforehand, and one day's work is conducted like an-
other, the only difference or variation consisting in
the fact that the portion of country worked each day
is different, and that in the early part of the season
more branding of calves and yearlings is done than
during the latter portion. The day's work is much as
follows. The whole of the outfit or various outfits

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 125

are under the direction of the most experienced of the
4 boys,' and work in combination some definite area.
The steers that have been collected from it are then
sorted out according as they are branded with the
brands of the different ranches and driven into the
respective main bunches or herds, which are, of course,
as well as the horses, guarded night and day, the
night-herding forming the hardest part of the cow-
boy's work, and the one which he dislikes the most.
Our waggon was not ready to leave until several
hours after the round-up waggon had pulled out, the
rendezvous being at Dry Creek. The King, with
Frank, c started out ' to renew their pursuit after the
wily antelope, while I rode ahead of our own outfit
(which consisted of waggon and team, as our two
spare hunting horses were being herded and driven
with the round-up horses). And it was well that I
did so, for a more difficult place for one man to find,
across the bare hills in the deceptive atmosphere,
could hardly be imagined.

Occasionally I heard a distant shot, and almost
invariably a few antelope (which were excessively
numerous) would appear scudding across the horizon,
from the direction of the shot, the bucks at their
heavy, lumbering, yet active gallop, the does with an
airy fleetness, and both like the wind.

We pitched our tent some distance from the round-
up tents at Dry Creek, as the early rising and horse-
catching and the changing during the night of the
' boys ' whose turn it was to herd the steers or

126 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

horses, were all noisy proceedings. The horses are
' rounded-up,' and each man catches the horse he
intends riding first, at a very early hour, and this is
the occasion for much noise and i language.' There
were a hundred and twenty horses for the use of ten
4 boys/ only one of whom was a boy in the actual
sense of that term. My friend, the King, had mainly
come out, as one of a board of directors, to write a
report on the prospects of the cattle business generally
and of a local company in Wyoming Territory in
particular, and was, therefore, amassing information.

"Within a mile of us lay one of those extraordinary
natural c bad-land ' formations which are so common
in Dakota and eastern Montana, known as Bates' s
Hole, which I visited alone on my Mexican mustang,
Pete. This remarkable place used in the early winter
to swarm with large game, which were easily — far
too easily — killed, and constituted a standing attrac-
tion to scores of hunters who were glad of the oppor-
tunity of laying in a supply of meat so easily.

I need hardly say that at present, owing to the
hide-hunters and indiscriminate slaughterers, game
of any sort, always excepting antelope, has become
exceedingly scarce. The ground, as though in proof
of their former profusion, was littered in every direc-
tion round the edge of this depression with the shed
horns of elk or wapiti. Picture a deep valley or chasm,
with a tolerably flat bottom, that appears to have
sunk or subsided a thousand feet below the surround-
ing country, fifty miles in length and fifteen in width.

EOCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 127

Four or five streams flowing far below one, as one
stands on the brink, can be traced for forty miles by
the stunted cotton-wood and other trees that fringe
their banks, making them appear like green serpents
winding among arid alkaline hills. This vast ' bad-
land ' depression is filled in every direction by every
kind of bizarre peaks and variously-coloured, sugar-
loaf-shaped mounds and grotesque limestone buttes,
worn and fluted into pillars and odd shapes by denud-
ing rains. Bates' s Hole lay before me, and from the
point where I had first struck the brink or brim this
wonderful spot appeared spread below like a vast map.
On the north it opens upon and is bounded by the
North Platte Eiver near its junction with the South
Platte. But not a head of game was to be seen any-
where, and a prolonged and scrutinous examination
with the binocular revealed only stray ' bunches' of
cattle. The King, with one of the boys, had started
to ' fetch a trail ' round the wooded cliffs that bound
the edge of the Hole in search of game, and saw a
mule-deer, but without a chance of shooting. My
ground, therefore, lay in the opposite direction, and I
determined to make for an isolated mountain that rose
steep and abrupt and almost bare of timber near the
brink of Bates' s Hole.

Passing on my way several bands of cattle, which
stared stupidly and then ' bunched up,' like wild
animals who had never set eyes before upon a solitary
horseman, I at length turned up a steep gully and
followed a game-trail, or, more strictly speaking, a

128 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

cattle-trail, intending to skirt one of the curious ledges
or parallel layers of limestone, so commonly found
throughout "Wyoming, along the sides of river valleys,
and which extend unbroken sometimes for hundreds
of miles.

I had got pretty quick by this time at l spotting '
game, and reined-in Pete before my head and shoulders
had well topped the brow of the first slope, for on the
crest of the next one, well defined against the sky, rose
the horns of a fine blacktail or mule-deer. The animal
was lying motionless in the meagre shade of a dead
red-cedar, and its head was turned towards the sound
of footsteps. Pete was still below the brow of the hill,
and the stag had not yet seen anything but my head
and shoulders. Throwing the reins on the ground, in
which position Pete would have remained without
moving during the whole day, I cautiously descended
and wormed myself into view and brought the rifle to
bear upon the stag, which I expected would rise and
make off. But after waiting a considerable time, and
seeing that the animal, which was almost exactly the
colour of the ground, showed no signs of moving, I
prepared to fire. It was so perfectly motionless that,
had it not been for the horns it would have been
almost undistinguishable. I judged the distance to
be a hundred yards. The effect of my shot was
electrical. I can only describe it by saying that the
spot where a fine mule-deer had been lying was vacant
long before the sound of the shot had died away.

I had time to note, as the animal disappeared over

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 129

the sky-line, that it shook its head in a most unusual
manner, or, at least, in a way that I judged to be
unusual, this being the first mule-deer I had encoun-
tered. I found, when two hours later I succeeded in
killing the animal, that my bullet had passed through
one of its ears, which accounted for the head-
shaking. At present there was nothing left but to
examine the ground for traces of blood and to con-
tinue upwards on Pete towards the summit. On my
way I saw the stag still mounting the hill far away to
the left.

Close to the top, unsuspected and invisible from
below, I came upon a few small pine-groves in
sheltered hollows, with pools of water, and looking
such a likely place for a deer that I unslung • my
i Express ' and approached on foot. Appearances
were not deceptive, for almost immediately several
fawns and hinds ran up the hill followed by a stag.
At my first shot the stag turned down, showing that I
had hit it, and came straight towards me, but halted
in the timber, in which it was quite invisible.

I next caught sight of it some distance off making
down the hill through another part of the cover, and
fired four more shots without any effect but that of
hastening its movements. The hinds, which I ' had no
use for,' had meanwhile passed away over the summit
of the mountain. The stag was evidently badly
wounded, and had made for a small wood below. I
took plenty of time, for, cruel as it may be, a wounded
deer should never be closely pressed. If left to itself

E

130 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

it lies down, the wounded limb stiffens, and it can be
more easily approached. Leading Pete down towards
the wood below, I left him and continued as before on
foot with the greatest caution. I arrived in time to
see my victim labouring slowly along, and limping
down hill with the greatest difficulty, looking for
some hiding-place among the bushes as it passed. At
length it found one to its satisfaction, and instantly
threw itself down. I was in full view, and afraid to
move until, after turning several times to lick its
wounded quarters, the antlered head sank slowly to
the earth, and I ventured to creep onwards. My
object was to make a circuit and get below it, and it
was lucky that I did so. I had carefully marked the
spot, and as I neared it from below I saw my stag
among thick undergrowth apparently dead, so, making
bare the hunting-knife, I laid down the rifle and
seized it by the horns. However, the prize was not
yet mine, for the deer was by no means so defunct as
it appeared. Shaking its head violently, and in doing
so alarming me considerably, it scrambled to its feet,
and commenced to make off at a wonderfully improved
pace down the hill.

Not much more remains to tell. I had time to
seize my rifle and roll it over by a well-placed shot
behind the shoulder, and then found, to my astonish-
ment, as I was decapitating it, that I must have made
its acquaintance in the morning, for through the
right ear was a small round freshly-cut hole, just the
size of my Express bullet : —

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 131

Low the dauntless earl is laid,

Gored with many a gaping wound.

Fate demands a nobler head,

Soon a king shall bite the ground.

Next day I went alone as usual, on a broncho
named Button to the Medicine Bow Bange, the
thickest timber within reach of camp, and which
would have been thought the likeliest spot for elk,
had it not been that ' the boys ' had brought word
that they had found a camp of the ubiquitous hide-
hunters. After a twelve mile gallop, or 4ope,? over
an endless plain, a wooded valley was entered and
the higher ground soon reached. Here were clus-
ters of great pines, and delicious grass slopes, which
gave a park-like appearance as though some land-
scape-gardening had been accomplished on a vast
scale with detached rocks and clumps of under-
growth, while across the open spaces came distant
views of the North Platte Eiver and various nameless
ranges that lie south of the Sweetwater. There were
plenty of tracks of deer and of either cattle or elk, for
it is difficult at times to distinguish one from the
other, and for many hours I peered, with rifle always
ready, among the forest trees, sometimes leading But-
ton, and at other times riding. About midday, on
mounting to the brow of a ridge, I came in full view
of a steep wooded slope on the opposite side of the
valley. Along the top of the ridge ran a long, but-
tressed limestone cliff, along the base of which grew
the tallest of pines.

K 2

132 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Leaving Button out of sight, I settled down to
search for some sign of life with my binocular, and
soon caught sight of what seemed the head of a deer ;
and presently saw signs of there being a large herd.

Descending, therefore, and leaving Button tied to a
tree in the valley below, I rapidly climbed the hill
on the opposite side. A high cross-wind was blowing,
and the ground was admirably suited for a stalk, for
just below the herd of wapiti ran a low limestone cliff,
up which I soon scrambled, and peering cautiously
over the edge, found my first elk in full view — a
whole band of them.

They formed a lovely picture, and to my delight
were barely fifty yards distant, making any chance of
missing out of the question. Quite twenty were in
sight, and I knew that at least as many more must be
lying where they could not be seen.

A more beautiful sight could hardly be imagined,
with the dark green fir-trees and dazzling white lime-
stone cliff behind, while the elk lay in all kinds of
positions, some lazily flicking off the flies, some occa-
sionally rising to stretch themselves. But though I
waited anxiously for an hour and a half, no bull-elk,
as the stag wapiti are called, appeared. I felt it would
be excusable, for the sake of venison, to shoot a hind
or ' cow-elk,' as they were the first I had seen. I
therefore picked out the largest and lightest coloured,
supposing that she would most probably be a barren
one, and fired. At the shot they all i bunched up '
and galloped off down the hill in a cloud of dust,

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 133

excepting the one fired at, which followed the others a
short way, then turned slowly down towards Button,
and I found her lying dead close to my horse, in a
dense piece of timber. It occupied me for exactly an
hour to take the whole hide and as much meat as the
broncho could carry, and to pack them on the saddle,
and I reached camp four hours later. Next day, the
' round up ' left to drive the steers to the Union Pacific
Eailway, about eighty miles distant, for shipment to
Chicago, so our horses had to be caught out of the
round-up herd, as well as the others for the morning's
work. The morning horse -catching is always a scene
of wild tumult. When a man sees the horse he wants
he rushes forward, whirling his lasso over his head,
and seeking an opportunity for throwing it, while the
whole herd revolves madly round and round the correl.
"When a horse is lassoed, or ' roped,' as the Western
phrase goes, he generally becomes quiet, and allows
himself to be saddled and bridled without any trouble,
and will stand for hours if the reins are merely dropped
over his head to the ground. All the i boys' take
their turn at herding the cattle, which are generally
about a mile from the camp. Sometimes a stampede
takes place. The last occurred 'right here,' and was
caused, according to 'Boney,' by the i boys' using
bear-grease to smear their lariats ; then the appear-
ance of a dog ' settled it.' The next minute the
ground fairly trembled under the tread of the
frightened brutes. The night was pitch dark, and
the sound of the flying herd the only guide for the

134 TKAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

pursuers as they tried to ' head them on0.' That night
half the steers escaped and were probably ' rounded
up ' with the next lot the following year, Those that
were headed and driven back, stampeded again and
again, till horses and cattle and men were thoroughly
tired out. At times a heavy storm or an unusual noise
will have the same effect ; but once shipped on the
' cars,' these "Western cattle become quite tame. Dur-
ing the journey to Chicago from Wyoming or Montana
they suffer from thirst, but do not eat much. It is
well known that advantage has actually been taken of
this fact to increase their weight by giving them salt,
and thus causing them to drink more greedily.

Though the c round up ' departed, the King and I
were obliged to wait, with Boler (the cook), for Bron-
cho Bill, whom the King had engaged as his hunter.
(He turned up in a very lucky manner just as we were
1 pulling out ' from our next camp, we having given
him up.) Shortly after the departure of l the boys,' a
well-known "Westerner camped near us, known as
Missouri John, with four hundred and thirty horses
and two 'boys,' who had brought the ' outfit ' from
Oregon. One of these i hands ' came and sat down by
our tent, and informed us that the boss was going to
pasture the horses here for the winter. "When he had
departed, Boler said, in a mysterious manner, that he
was " the bad man wot come from Texas," because
the l round up ' cook had told him that one of Missouri
John's c boys ' had " shot four or five men 'way south."
Still, we found " the bad man wot come from Texas "

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 135

a pleasant enough fellow in camp, and an admirer of
my Express, or " English, cannon," as he called it,
which " would shoot through a mountain and kill on
the other side ; " and one evening, when he said he
"wasl)roke completely up," having got entangled in
the lasso with which he had ' roped ' a vicious ' bron-
cho ' in the c correl,' I was able to patch him up again
with opium liniment. This horse-breaking (called in
the vernacular c broncho busting ') is often rough
work. In the presence of Missouri John's horses our
own half-dozen had to be kept hobbled or picketed.
The boss left in his buggy the next day. His two
4 boys ' usually ' correlled ' the herd every morning,
and some were invariably missing, and had to be
hunted up. Indeed, the Westerner, whether he be in
the stock 01 horse-ranche business, is for ever having
to hunt up strayed horses.

He also invariably is, or assumes to be, ignorant of
the exact number of horses he possesses, even when
none are supposed to be missing.

But Broncho Bill, whom the King had engaged as
hunter, had not yet found us. Any one who is ' liable '
not to be able to find his way back to camp among the
confusing hills and forests or on the plains where
there are no prominent landmarks, usually engages a
1 hunter,' to whom he often has to pay six dollars a
day. The hunter's duties consist in ' riding around '
to 'show the country,' and in always knowing the
shortest way back to camp. One day I rode up on to a
broad table-land overlooking Bates's Hole, to ' snake '

136 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

or drag home behind Pete a pair of the largest cast
elk antlers I could find, with which the ground was
strewn. "While engaged in so doing a thick fog,
which had been threatening, descended, and I had
to find my way for many miles by compass, which
one should never be without in such places. The
camp was situated at the edge of an enormous
stretch of prairie, twelve miles broad and at least
fifty in length. At the south end was situated Shirley
Basin, an equally unlovely and treeless waste, hol-
lowed out in a vast depression. On the north side
the plain was bounded by a nameless rocky range,
and on the west by the Medicine Bow — a timber-
covered range ; and on the east by barren hills, on
the other side of which lay the famous l hole.' We
shortly moved our camp to Medicine Bow, where
Broncho Bill, at last, found us out, and after a few
days' journey, arrived at our most southerly ranche
after fording the North Platte and Medicine rivers,
and crossing the Union Pacific Eailway, at the com-
mencement of September.

Before starting on our final hunting expedition,
we remained a day or two at the ranche to rest the
horses and lay in fresh supplies of oats and provisions,
while we employed ourselves in the routine occupa-
tions that are necessary where no servants are kept.
Stray horses had invariably to be searched for. In
the early morning the vicinity of the ' correl ' is
indicated by clouds of dust, and the sound of Western
oaths and of trampling horses, while through the

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 137

dust-laden atmosphere may be seen, occasionally, a
lariat whirling round and round.

Towards breakfast or dinner-time some one strolls
in and commences to fry something, while one of the
' boys' is sure to be brushing his teeth with one
of a pile of toothbrushes lying on a shelf. The
'boys,' especially if they come from the East, are
often practically facetious, but never unpleasantly so.

The latter part of our journey towards Colorado,
after we had once started, was characterized by
absence of any trail whatever, by a short snowstorm,
and by the admirable way in which the team drew
the waggon over some exceedingly awkward cross-
ings. We were soon fortunate enough to find our-
selves camped in the vicinity of a band of elk, and
for the first time heard that wonderful, weird, awe-
inspiring bugle call of the bull during the running,
or rutting, season, which, once heard in the lonely
forests, can never be forgotten. Wapiti are scarce
now, though not many years ago bands of many
thousands were commonly met with, and as commonly
slaughtered wantonly, uselessly, and in cold blood.
The result is that now they only exist in a few
districts ; while, at the same time, they are constantly
changing their resorts, and thus become very difficult
to find. Nothing is easier on a windy day, when a
bull elk or stag wapiti is ' calling ' in the timber, than
to walk up and shoot it.

The only excitement consists in getting sufficiently
near to see whether the antlers are worth the trouble

138 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

of carrying away. On a still day the animal hears
one approaching, and will almost invariably stop call-
ing, and make a circuit to get wind of the noise,
should it not have actually seen the hunter. We
only wished for a limited number of wapiti heads,
which we obtained without much trouble, and
at the same time without much sport, though the
magnificent forests and lonely plains, combined with
the splendid climate of the summer and autumn
months, made every moment of the day intensely
enjoyable. Shortly afterwards an outfit of hide-hunters
pitched camp some miles off, and a little later the wapiti
ceased calling, for the remnant seemed to have taken
their departure. Both my friend and I still wanted,
as hunting trophies, at least three heads and antlers
of the mule-deer, or blacktail. "We secured the three,
all of which I shot on the very last day of our expedi-
tion. To find the mule-deer we decided that it would
be best to ' pack ' with six horses into the wildest
tracts of that portion of Colorado. The way lay through
deep ravines, encumbered with fallen timber, on each
side of which the forests for hundreds of square miles
had been destroyed by fire, a very common occurrence
throughout North America. Camp was made by a
most unusually picturesque tarn in a wood surrounded
by some of the wildest cliff scenery imaginable. As
we were on the point of starting the following morning,
the King got a kick from one of his hunting horses,
which necessitated Broncho Bill's being sent back to
where the waggon had been left for medicines and

ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND WESTERN CATTLE LAND. 139

provisions, as he found it impossible to move. Three
days later we were enabled to return to our old
camping ground, and thence to the Union Pacific
Bailway, and so home. On the very last day of our
ising the pack-saddle outfit, I secured the three mule-
deer I had been wishing for so long. The first was
caught sight of standing within the edge of a distant
wood, just as I was drawing up to an antelope (for
we were in need of meat). One shot sufficed. An
hour later we were riding across some patches of
peculiarly high sage brush, on an open plain, when
suddenly there sprung up in front of us two stags and
two hinds, or bucks and does, as the Westerner styles
them. Springing off Pete, I dropped both stags,
which were running close together, with a couple of
lucky shots, having thus bagged altogether five black-
tail.

A VISIT TO THE MONASTEEIES OF MOUNT ATHOS.

The Custom House at Constantinople — Seizing- my Books — "Women excluded
from Mount Athos — Females of other Sorts — The Tourist at Mount
Athos — My Voyage — Karies — I am presented to the Holy Synod —
Disadvantages of having an Interpreter — Libraries of Mount Athos.

FIRST I should like to state what travellers may
expect on arrival at the Sultan's capital, who may not
be aware of the extent of the system of bribery and
corruption which prevails in all parts and offices of the
misgoverned country of the Turk, and which reaches
to such a pitch that it has become an organized
institution which must defraud the revenue of a con-
siderable sum, but constituting the sole salary of the
individuals connected with the various Custom-houses
who have to deal with travellers' effects on their
arrival at Constantinople. Having nothing whatever
liable to duty, I thought it unnecessary to offer bribes
to prevent an examination of my luggage taking place,
and allowed matters to take their course, as the tra-
veller naturally would on arrival in London from the
Continent of Europe. The whole of the books in my
possession were carried off to a small office connected
with the Custom-house at Galata, and I was informed
that in two or three days I must return to receive
back any that the censor of literature (Cacavas
Effendi) considered fit and proper to admit — the rest
to be confiscated. On my return at the expiration of

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 141

the prescribed interval of time all were returned to me
with the exception of two well-known English guide
books in red covers — one to the shores of the Medi-
terranean, the other to Turkey — and I was told to
come again in two days, as the two guide books in
question required more careful examination. After
the lapse of the two days the Effendi informed me
that he feared he would have to forfeit the obnoxious
volumes, as they contained passages injurious to the
Turkish Empire. At the cost of several packets
.of cigars and a good deal of flattery I got him to
return me the two books upon the assurance that
I was leaving Constantinople the following day,
but not until he had torn out the offending pages,
from which he allowed me to cut the particularly
unpleasant passages in order that I might " get them
altered." I was informed that I was most unusually
fortunate to recover the volumes. The passages in
question are as follows : " The country is pervaded
by a sort of feudal system. There is indeed a judge
whose duty it is to administer justice ; and a Go-
vernor who is head of the police. But the doings of
these people are largely controlled by their pecuniary
interests: they hold their offices for short periods,
and endeavour to make them profitable. The people,
therefore, are compelled to look elsewhere for pro-
tection." And again : " Turks never purchase wives ;
they buy these girls as their servants, and are allowed
by Turkish law to make them their concubines." The
following passage made him extremely angry, al-

142 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

though he admitted it to be true : " It should be re-
marked, however, that infanticide is extremely pre-
valent, and not punished by law." And the following :
" According to Turkish law, the succession is vested
in the eldest male of the Royal family. Formerly, as
a matter of policy, all males of the House of Osrnan,
other than the sons of the reigning Sultan, were
murdered. This cruel practice has been for some
time abolished."

It is difficult to understand how the following,
referring to an historical event on the Island of Chios,
could be obnoxious : " The Capitan Pasha soon ap-
peared with a powerful fleet, and an army of fanatical
Moslems was ferried across and let loose upon the
unfortunate island. Then commenced the work of
destruction. The island was given up to indiscrimi-
nate pillage and massacre. The Archbishop and heads
of the clergy," &c. And one more, perhaps the most
crucial of all : " The rapid progress of the European
nations in the arts of war at length drove back the
tide of Turkish conquest, while internal demoralisation
has now brought the Empire to the verge of extinc-
tion." One ought to remember that the Turkish
Government do not pay all official salaries with
wonderful regularity, and that the officials in question
feel bound to recoup themselves somehow. I met with
several English who had suffered from the depreda-
tions of the censor, having been deprived of such
unlikely books, among others, as "Don Quixote" and
a French grammar and a dictionary. Anyhow, tra-

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 143

vellers should conceal their guide books, or make use
of the silver key to the Golden Horn.

From Constantinople I went direct to Mount Athos,
which is well worth a visit. Steamers run weekly to
it from Constantinople, and a short description may
prove interesting.

All the monasteries are rich, and some exceedingly
so. They neither expect nor wish for any recompense
from the traveller commended to their hospitality by
the Patriarch of the Greek Church at Constantinople ;
nor is payment ever received from Eussian kalmuk or
Turkish pasha, from English milord or Grecian
peasant. A letter from the Archimandrite in London,
or from our Legation at Constantinople, secures the
necessary letter from the head of the Greek Church,
and assures to the bearer treatment and reception
accorded to travellers of distinction. If he should
come supplied with tobacco and photographs of men
and women (especially the latter) who live in the
unknown outer world, he will cause much innocent
delight to the venerable fathers.

One of the most astonishing features of the Holy
Mountain is the rigid manner in which the female sex
is banished from the sight, but not, it is to be feared,
from the thoughts of the worthy old ascetics. They
still tell of the time when two wives of officers of the
British fleet landed by special permission at the port
of Lavro, and caused some astonished " brothers " to
fly for shelter within the convent gates, pursued as
they thought by devils in the garb of angels of light.

144 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Women are not the only exiled creatures ; the females
of all domesticated animals are banished from the
sacred promontory as effectually as though they never
existed. And thus do the monks seek to separate
their minds for ever from the world, by removing
women and all appertaining thereto from their cog-
nizance. But it seems almost certain that the means
defeat the end in view. Woman, though lost to
sight, is to their memory dear. Seen through the haze
of recollection, the faults are toned down, and women
must exercise an assailing power on their memory, and
especially on their imagination, that no abstinence or
midnight services can lessen.

But the good fathers are not able to cope with the
females of all living things, for there are present the
females of pigeons, rats, and fleas — whole families of
the latter from all the Eussias, both the Turkeys, and
from all parts of Greece and Syria. In consequence of
the rats, the monasteries abound with tom-cats, whose
discordant cries vex the doleful ear of night, and of
the traveller. In fact, he will find male poultry and
dogs, male asses and horses, and a town without
women and without noise — namely, Karies, the capital.

The monks of Athos are dressed in black robes, and
wear high, brimless, felt caps, over which a black
cloth is thrown. They glide about the ancient convent
passages in a ghostly manner, wearing noiseless felt
slippers. The attendants told off to minister to the
wants of guests — who come like angels' visits — are
exceedingly kind and attentive.

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 145

There are two kinds of monasteries. In the
Koinobite monasteries they never eat meat, property
is held in common, and the Hegumenos has supreme
authority over the monks. In the Idiorythmic, where
they seldom eat meat, the Agoumenos is head, and
everything is at his disposal. Of one thing the
traveller may be sure, that he will meet no other
tourists at Mount Athos.

The traveller on arrival at each monastery, if he is
provided with a letter from the Patriarch, will be
received with most sumptuous and old-fashioned hos-
pitality of the Middle Ages ; will be entertained with
almost regal pomp on the plainest fare and good wine ;
will be lodged in the best rooms or the best guest-
chambers of the monastery, fitted up with divans in
Oriental style and hung round with quaint prints and
pictures of monastic life, sometimes startlingly con-
trasted with flaring coloured worldly drawings; or
sometimes queer old-time woodcuts of rows of unhappy
monks ascending one by one a ladder into heaven,
from which some are being dragged by devils with
long grappling poles and thrown into flames below,
while close by rows of mitred bishops are uncon-
cernedly celebrating religious rites. But four pictures
the traveller will almost invariably see — namely, of
the Emperor and Empress of Eussia and the King and
Queen of Greece ; while occasionally a shrine, before
which burns a perennial lamp, like the vestal fire
constantly renewed, will illumine his chamber in a
ghostly and dim manner during the long watches of

146 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the night, and will sometimes serve the useful
purpose of keeping away the rats, with which the
convents swarm. Generally his windows will over-
look and sometimes overhang the -ZEgean Sea, sup-
ported by picturesque wooden beams, or will look out
over vineyards or over mountain torrents or wild
rocky scenery, above which looms the splendid sharp
peak of Athos, too often swathed in vapour, rising so
steep and precipitous that the snow in winter cannot
cling to its sides. The services commence almost
every night at midnight and last till morning, and on
the eves of feast-days — which comprise a third of the
days in the year — the services commence considerably
earlier. On these days in monasteries of a certain
class they have two meals and on other days only one
— but rarely, if ever, any meat. So, about midnight
he will be waked from his slumbers by the queer,
quaint, musical, distant beating of the sounding-board,
called a simandro, which will produce a lulling, mag-
netising effect upon his senses. The sound, uncanny
in the extreme, is used to arouse the monks to their
nightly services. Now near, now far away, its
musical, rhythmical cadence sounds across the vaults
and passages of the old monasteries and at length dies
away, to be renewed at regular intervals until
" morning doth appear." Or, on the eves of the feast-
days aforesaid, dedicated to some supposed saint, he
will hear the harsher sound of the convent church
bells. Should he follow the monks into the church
where the central services are held (for there are as

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 147

many as twenty-five churches or chapels, and some-
times more, in each monastery), as he undoubtedly
will, in the first two or three monasteries he enters,
he will see a sight at once picturesque and solemn,
painful and interesting. All are built on the same
principle, and decorated in the same way. A dimly-
lighted, domed, cruciform building ; painted, frescoed,
and hung with pictures, brass pendants, candlesticks ;
and walled with tall black pews, in which loll, recline,
half standing, half sitting, rows of old, black-robed,
white-bearded, half somnolent monks, who all night
long will take up one by one with monotonous intona-
tion the rolling chant. He will be conducted to a
conspicuous seat, where, in a worldly check tweed
suit, he will feel strangely out of place. He will have
the advantage of being in a lighted part of the chapel,
while the corner whence he had hoped to observe un-
noticed is bathed in the deepest gloom, and the disad-
vantage of not being able to escape without exciting
attention. He will possibly have a struggle to
maintain an unmoved countenance when he sees all
the inhabitants of the monastery, monks, caloyers,
servants, priests, pressing forward to kiss a little
picture of the saint, whose festa it may be on the
morrow, or bowing forward to sniff as much as
possible of the holy fragrance of the incense which
the acolyte comes round swinging before each of them
in turn, or in turn prostrating themselves many times
in succession and touching with their foreheads the
pavement before the high altar.

L 2

148 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

The high pews look uncomfortable, but are not so
in reality. Some of the seats double back on hinges
and form a high rest. If the occupant goes to sleep,
these sometimes turn down with a considerable noise.
This once took place close to where I happened to be
seated. The old man to whom it had occurred because
he had dozed off to sleep, being ashamed that such a
thing had been seen by a stranger, tried to delude
me with the idea that he had done it on purpose, and
insisted on my turning my pew down in a similar,
though more deliberate manner. To please him there-
fore I did likewise, as though it offered thus a more
convenient and comfortable chair.

All night long the monks will continue at their
devotions, and when morning dawns the relics and
vestments will be shown him ; the former kept in
wonderful boxes and cages of mediaeval filigree work,
and treated by the monks with an odd mixture of
superstitious devotion and contemptuous familiarity ;
and he will gaze on the thousand-year-old mosaic
floors, on the rarely used throne of the Archbishop,
and the numberless small pictures of the Byzantine
age of painting. Nowhere in Europe can such a
collection of goldsmith's work be found, as these relics
present.

The traveller may, if he pleases, hold a continual
reception from morning till night. Unless he stations
his dragoman at the door, it will never be closed
for more than a few seconds. Occasionally he may
escape, but he will sometimes be found out and

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 149

pursued. He will be required to prognosticate the
future, and to give his opinion on political questions.
He will be required to shake hands many dozens of
times during the day, as it is supposed to be an
English custom. In fact a little druggist at Karies
who knew a few words in foreign languages shook
hands with me over twenty times a day. He was
sent for on every occasion when any communication
had to be made to the monks, on my return to the
capital, relative to my departure. He was called to in-
terpret to some Archbishops, and to the grand council,
and shook hands all round in honour of the English-
man. He shook my hand every time I entered or
quitted his shop, and finally again when he came to
supper, though I had seen him on the doorstep the
moment before. To such an extent will an Englishman
be called upon to shake hands in the East, because he
is supposed to be given to the practice to an equal
extent in his own country. He jabbered a few
sentences of what sounded gibberish, and then said,
"Je parle P Anglais, vous voyez, tres bien ; " so I
concluded that it must have been intended for that
language. I assured him that he possessed an
enormous talent for languages, which delighted him
exceedingly.

I generally found the monks willing to submit
themselves to be photographed, though some wished
to keep crossing themselves during the operation, as
though to ward off some malignant influence ; on one
occasion two old monks the day following the deed

150 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

declared that they must have sinned, and that I had
been the cause of it, in that during the hours of dark-
ness they had seen visions and heard music sent by
the evil one to tempt them.

A good many partridges are shot on the backbone
or summit of the middle portion of the peninsula.
Needless to say, they are not for the worthy fathers,
whose most stimulating diet usually consists of dried
fish from Scandinavia, but for that of the lay
servants, who are nearly as numerous as the monks
themselves. Occasionally fresh fish is caught all
round the peninsula, when the sea is calm, and some
favoured monasteries enjoy a regular though small
supply. At the monastery of Eviron I once dined
with the Abbot and Archimandrite off a large fish
of about seven pounds. The first course consisted
of the head, the next of the body, and the last of
the tail — all three cooked in different ways, and
washed down with the good red home-made wine
made by the monks.

Most of the ground round the sides of the peninsula
that descend more or less rapidly to the sea-shore, is
so thickly overgrown as to make walking almost im-
possible, except in the vicinity of the different foot-
paths or mule tracks between the various monasteries
which appear not to have been altered from the time
that they were first engineered during the Middle Ages.
Their surface is paved with large round stones, and the
interstices are washed away by rains. The unneces-
sary windings and aggravating ascents and descents

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 151

cause half a day to be consumed in reaching a convent
not over a mile distant in a straight line.

At the monastery of S. Paul almost all are Cepha-
lonians, and, consequently, once under the British flag.
Of these the greater number are British patriots at
heart. The monks of Athos regard with equally little
confidence both Russia, who supplies them with the
greater part of their pilgrims, and Turkey whose tri-
butaries they are ; for one of their chief anxieties is
for their possessions in Macedonia.

Altogether there are said to be upwards of three
thousand monks on Mount Athos and as many lay
servants, and the number of monasteries is twenty-
two.

I left Constantinople in the small steamer of the
Greek Courtgi Company (which runs alternately with
the Turkish Company's boat), and reached Daphne —
which is the port of Mount Athos — after a fine passage
not always to be expected in the ^Egean during
winter. There was an English passenger besides
myself, namely, Lloyd's agent at Constantinople,
going to Salonica to map out the exact position of a
wreck. There was also a Persian gentleman, who,
according to his own account, was pursuing about the
Singitic Gulf one of his own cargo boats, which had
not turned up when expected, manned by Greek
sailors, the most erratic and independent of mariners.
Before arriving at Daphne one coasts along the west
side of the Holy Mountain, which rises rugged and
precipitous, and rears its sharp point over six thousand

152 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

feet above the blue JEgean. Five huge monasteries
are passed, resembling each a mediaeval fortress,
placed like an eagle's nest among the vast precipices
and rocky gorges of the mountain, and altogether
one is impressed with the belief that Mr. Towzer's
remark in his " Highlands of Turkey " is nothing
removed from the literal truth, that the scenery on
Mount Athos is scarcely equalled, and certainly not
surpassed, by any in Europe. On landing out of a
boat full of black-robed, hairy, and very much un-
washed monks, I had to deliver up my Turkish pass-
port to a Turkish officer, who promised to give it
back in an hour ; but next morning I found he had
gone to Karies, whither I followed on a mule, to
deliver my letter to the Grand Council of the Mo-
nastic Eepublic — a ride of four hours over the back-
bone of the promontory, disclosing grand views of
Imbros, Lemnos, and Samothrace, all mountainous
islands.

At Karies I presented myself immediately before
the Holy Synod, and probably committed many
ludicrous mistakes in Eastern etiquette. I found
only a few members of the council present, who con-
sisted of ten or twelve very venerable-looking old
men, only one of whom knew any words of any Euro-
pean language but Greek. All wore the longest and
whitest of beards. After inscribing my name in the
visitors' book, where the only other English visitors'
names were those of Canon Farrar, Dr. Magrath,
Messrs. Eiley and Owen, and Dr. Lansdell, a large tray

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES 0? MOUNT ATHOS. 153

ras brought in, having on it small cups of black
coffee and of spirit, a dish of jam, a glass jar con-
taining pure water, and a pile of spoons. I felt quite
uncertain what to do, but eventually drank up a cup
of coffee and one of spirit, the first of which I should
have taken last, then took a spoonful of the jam,
which I defiled by putting the same spoon back into it
and which should have been taken first to promote, I
suppose, thirst ; and finally crowned my misdeeds by
drinking up the water which was intended to be used
by each one for depositing his spoon in after taking a
mouthful of preserve. But as similar formalities were
repeated on my arrival at each monastery I visited, I
soon learned the correct way. The good old monks,
moreover, pardoned my mistakes, and soon wrote out
the necessary circular letter to the monasteries, which
I visited in succession, spending a night or more at
each. I usually sent on the letter and luggage ahead,
before entering the convent, where, on my arrival,
the guest chamber and a meal were found ready pre-
pared, and the tedious ceremony of coffee-drinking and
reception by the Archimandrite was avoided. This
was inflicted upon my dragoman, who bore it bravely
for a few days, but at last declared, perhaps as the
result, that he was ill ; so I sent him back to the port
of Daphne to await the returning steamer to Stamboul.
This occurred at the consent of S. Dionysio. I found,
however, that I was far better off without him, for if
any monk spoke Italian or English he was always
brought forward as interpreter, while my very igno-

154 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

ranee of modern Greek protected me against inter-
minable political discussions. His unpicturesque form
usually obtruded itself in the foreground of the most
admirable views, while his observations profaned the
most romantic places. I could not venture to be any-
thing but perfectly polite to him, lest he should make
matters unpleasant in some way. He was the cause
of my being talked about in an unknown tongue
on all occasions, to my own entire exclusion from
any share in the conversation. The next day,
however, he returned, saying that he had been misin-
formed about the steamer, and that he was going to
accompany me again ; but, on the whole, I had found
a dragoman to be a mistake, and the next boat took
him back to Stamboul, notwithstanding his vehement
protestations.

After procuring the necessary circular letter, in
modern Greek, to the different monasteries, I set out
with a couple of mules for the baggage, and com-
menced my round of visits with Russikon, where
I spent the night, attending part of the services per-
formed in its two churches, one in Greek, the other
in Slavonian. Thence I visited Xeropotamo ; the
remarkably situated monastery of Simopetra founded
by St. Simon the hermit in the thirteenth century;
and that of S. Gregorio.

In the large guest-chamber of the latter monastery,
as in several others of the monasteries, a lamp is
always kept burning in front of a shrine. I was much
amused at the conduct of an old monk who greatly

A VISIT TO THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS. 155

coveted a photograph, of a Moorish woman which I
chanced to have among others ; he therefore, having
directed my attention to some object visible from the
window, placed it, as he thought unobserved, within
the folds of his dress, where I allowed it to remain.
I next visited S. Dionysio, S. Pauvolo (where, owing
to the weather, I remained for three nights), and
thence to S. Lauro, the largest of all. In this mo-
nastery, which is a Koinobite one, the library, accord-
ing to Curzon, contains about 5,000 volumes, of
which 4,000 are printed and are mostly on divinity,
and 900 written on paper and 100 on vellum, com-
prising Aldine classics, Anthologia, Homer, Hesiod,
works on botany, liturgies, books of prayer and divi-
nity. Some are folios of the works of St. Chry-
sostom and other Greek fathers of the eleventh and
twelfth centuries, and copies of the Gospels of about
the same age.

Other monasteries have libraries of similar cha-
racter.

Many of the monks used to insist on detailing all
their symptoms to me. This was especially the case
at the next monastery, of Caracalla, where the last
thing I saw as I turned to look back at the building,
a hundred yards behind me, as I quitted it next
morning, was one of the old hypochondriacs standing
at the portal, with his mouth yet wide open and
tongue protruded for my inspection. Thence I went
on to the monasteries of Iveron, Stauroniketes, and
Pantokrator ; and thence back to Kar.ies to obtain the

156 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

requisite permission to quit from the Turkish Aga.
I found him making a pile of cigarettes for the day's
consumption, and lying by his side was that remark-
able instrument so common in Mount Athos. It re-
sembles a long soup-ladle, and is used for — well, for
scratching one's back.

The next day found me tossing on the -^Egean, on
my way back to the Dardanelles.

ALASKA, THE GEEAT ICE LAND.

Why I wished to go there — Southern Alaeka, and How to reach it —
Winnipeg — Banff and the Devil's Lake — Victoria, Vancouver's Island —
The New York Times Alaska Expedition — Game of the Pacific Coast —
The Journey Northwards — Chilcat — Icy Bay and Muir Glacier — Sitka —
The U. S. and Mount St. Elias — The Position of Mount St. Elias— Fish-
ing and Shooting — The Voyage North in the U. S. Man-of-War —
Appearance of Mount St. Elias — Yakatat and its Indians — Curiosities —
Icy Bay.

IN March, ] 386, I left Liverpool in one of the Allan
line steamers bound for Canada, with the intention of
visiting and exploring that chain of gigantic peaks
which fringes the coast of the North Pacific, lying
partly in the North-west Territory of Canada and in
British Columbia, and partly in Alaska, and, if pos-
sible, of visiting and ascending Mount St. Elias,
which is not only the highest mountain in this chain,
but also the loftiest peak in North America, being no
less than between 19,000 ft. and 20,000 ft, in height.
I had an additional inducement in doing this, which
lay in the fact that no one but the Yakatat Indians
had ever landed at the foot of Mount St. Elias, no
white man had ever visited and described the country
and inhabitants since the early navigators, Teben-
koff, Beecher, Bering, Cook, and Vancouver, had
sailed along the coast ; and as it rose direct from the
ocean at its foot to the elevation aforesaid, it pro-
mised to present one of the grandest sights in the
world ; and in this latter hope I was not disappointed.

158 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Alaska is one of the loneliest lands on earth. By
right of geographical position it should belong to
Canada, for it consists of the north-west corner of the
continent ; but twenty years ago the United States
Government purchased it from Eussia for a compara-
tively small sum of money, which has since been
amply repaid to them, not only by the lease of the
Prybiloff Islands to the Alaska Commercial Company
(with the right of killing thereon 100,000 fur-seals
yearly), but also from its salmon fisheries and gold
mines.

Had Alaska become a British possession I doubt if
its resources would have been so quickly developed
to their present extent as they have become under
the sway of the star-spangled banner, owing to the
enterprise of the Americans, and their priority of
establishment upon the Pacific coast, and their
greater facilities for communication by sea with their
Arctic province from the ports of San Francisco and
Portland.

I have elsewhere given a more detailed description
of my nine months' visit to Alaska.* So much has
been written about the Canadian Pacific Eailway that
I may well omit altogether that portion of the journey
as far as Yictoria on Vancouver's Island, the chief
town among the few in British Columbia. This

* See "Shores and Alps of Alaska," by H. W. Seton Karr,
F.K.GKS., &c. (London, S. Low & Co., 1887); Proceedings of
the Royal Geographical Society, May, 1887; Fortnightly Review,
March, 1887 (Chapman & Hall).

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 159

province is no longer a distant or inaccessible portion
of the British Empire. She is now within a fort-
night's journey of the Mersey.

The Pacific Coast Company's steamers now traverse
weekly, starting from San Francisco, that great sea-
river or island passage behind the barrier of islands
which fringe the whole coast from the south-west
extremity of British Columbia as far north as the
fifty-eighth degree of latitude. This is a charming
and most picturesque excursion for those who dread
the open sea ; but it must be admitted that, after a
time, scenery which consists exclusively of steep
mountainous islands covered with dense forests of
pine does become monotonous, though farther north
it is varied by an occasional glimpse of a snow-peak
or a glacier. Some of the finest scenery lies in the
inlets of British Columbia, which the steamers, being
American, pass by, and leave un visited and unknown,
calling only at Olympia and Victoria, and thence pro-
ceeding direct to Fort Tongass, at the southern ex-
tremity of the British-Columbian Alaskan boundary,
near the mouth of the Nass Eiver.

I will only mention that on the journey from ocean
to ocean by the Canadian line I remained a few days
at Winnipeg to renew my acquaintance with Mr.
"Wrigley (of the Diplomatic Service, but now
Governor of the Hudson Bay Company), who made
arrangements for me to visit a ranche of half-breed
cattle near, where were to be seen the "last of the
buffaloes."

160 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Round Winnipeg the appearance of the country is
flat and low, broken up into brown and green grass
patches, small lakes, bogs and irregular clumps of
birch and maple following the course of the Red
River and Assiniboine.

In spring most of it is under water. In summer
a mirage plays along the junction of land and sky
that we associate with African deserts, raising the
trees and distant farmhouses till they appear to be
standing in lakes of water. Settlers are few round
Winnipeg, though it is the commercial capital of the
North- West. The great farming and also the great
grazing district of Canada lie farther west.

The smooth level grass makes a road almost un-
necessary. Trees raised above the ground by the
mirage kept deceiving us, and appeared like buffalo
or cattle until the brown herd was seen, which
allowed us to drive up into far closer proximity than
most Western steers would do. It is proposed to turn
some hundreds of cattle out with them, and allow
them to run together. So far as they have interbred
hitherto, the result has been interesting. Numerous
half-buffalo cattle may be seen, whose "robes " give
promise of becoming superior to the true buffalo
"robe" in softness of texture, in variation of shade,
in distribution of hair, and less inclination to the too
great woolly development of the wild buffalo skin.
These skins would, under these circumstances, should
the experiment prove successful, fetch at least as
much as the old "robes," which now cost over four

ALASKA, THE GBEAT ICE LAND. 161

pounds. The meat is worth more than ordinary meat
in Western markets, namely, about five-pence per
pound. The progeny of the male buffalo and the cow
exhibit plainly marked characteristics of both parents.
The short, thick horns of the male are modified, and
approach about half-way towards those of the female
parent in conformation and size. Similarly with
regard to the thick mane and forequarters and rela-
tively small flanks of the buffalo ; most points hold a
midway development, and likeness to both dam and
sire is pretty equally divided. The whole herd is
supposed to number about sixty head, but only
twenty were visible in our actual vicinity. Some
distant specks were discernible upon the horizon.
The distance was too great to allow us to decide
whether they were not horses, and time too short for
us to approach nearer.

Just here no houses were visible as far as the eye
could penetrate over the shimmering plains, and we
imagined ourselves transferred to twenty years back,
and the lazy animals before us yet unacquainted with
man. But something indefinable marred the picture,
and reminded us of the poor Indians we had just seen
languishing away in the penitentiary from pure cur-
tailment of their liberty. Close by, a pintail duck
flapped from her nest in the grass as though she were
unable to fly, and actually caused the horses and
carriage to be turned in her pursuit till we discovered
the deception. Of course we left her nest undis-
turbed.

M

162 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

We just had time, in returning, to examine the
interesting economy of the prison, which is admirably
managed ; also the bear-pit, with a couple of black
bears, which Big Bear, the Indian chief, who is
still a prisoner, is deputed to look after, as well as
the piggery, assisted, perhaps, by Poundmaker. "We
then saw two young moose, which Mr. Betson is
breaking into harness, the size of ponies, in an exten-
sive loose-box in the stables. Their eyes glared and
shone in the obscurity in a strange manner, while
they uttered a peculiar moaning noise. They would
not allow us to pat them, though their education is
progressing rapidly.

Some kennels ranged round the yard contain dogs,
and some of them, coyotes or wolves, chained up in
every respect like the dogs, and one of which now
has a litter of whelps by a colley.

After Winnipeg I stopped at Calgary, which is the
headquarters of the Canadian cattle- raising industry,
and made the acquaintance of Lieutenant Cochrane,
Mr. Thorburn, and many of the leading "ranchemen;"
also at the Canadian National Park at Banff, whence
I made an expedition alone to DeviPs Lake, a weird,
solitary, deep sheet of water environed and embo-
somed among high mountains, steep crags and appal-
ing precipices, and abounding in enormous trout, of
which, some weighing over thirty pounds, have since
been captured by line ; then at a place the very anti-
podes in name and aspect — Golden City — where the
Columbia flows through a valley of celestial beauty

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 163

between lofty ranges which have the qualities of both
grace and grandeur.

When I reached Victoria on Vancouver's Island the
Ancon, bound for Sitka, Alaska, was already alongside
the wharf. After coaling we steamed direct, as be-
fore stated, for Fort Tongass. I had not been long
on board before discovering that two Americans were
among the passengers, and bound, like myself, on an
exploring expedition to Mount St. Elias and the alpine
regions of Alaska. The wish to have the honour of
being the first to explore the great peak and the
glaciers round it had occurred simultaneously on
both sides of the Atlantic, for this party, as I found,
had been equipped and sent out by the proprietor
of the New York Times (Mr. Jones), and consisted of
Lieutenant Fred. Schwatka, leader of the American
Search Expedition to King William Island, in quest
of relics of the Franklin Expedition, and of Professor
W. Libbey, of Princeton College, New Jersey. We
joined forces, and the result was mutually advanta-
geous in many respects.

The journey resembles in some characteristics the
voyage along the west coast of Norway, though in
British Columbia and Alaska the channels are more
narrow and intricate, the mountains as high, and the
forests denser. Good mountain-goat hunting can be
had by ascending the Skeena Eiver, where some
English sportsmen (Mr. and Mrs. Turner and Mr. K.
Wilson) recently obtained eleven trophies in a fort-
night of the curious white long-haired creatures, half

M2

164 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

goat, half antelope. As we gradually reached higher
latitudes night disappeared, the approach of midnight
was only indicated by a subdued kind of twilight
which permitted one to read, while night and day the
steamer continued to wind her way among the islands,
some of which are of very remarkable shape. One of
the most curious examples of the shape which an
island can assume is that one named Kow Island,
lying to the west of Fort Wrangel, to which the
Coast Survey could find no other comparison where-
unto to liken it than that of a heap of entrails strewn
and scattered upon the ground, and it is undeniably
true. The next place at which the steamer stopped to
call was Fort Wrangel, at the mouth of the Stikeen
Eiver, which was discharging volumes of cold muddy
snow-water into the sea. This place is celebrated for
its trees carved by the Indians with their armorial
figures of monstrous deformity known as totem-poles.
After this we passed Wrangel Straits, where some
glaciers are situated, which bad weather prevented
our seeing, but in the afternoon it cleared up, and
some of the snow-fields and glaciers of Southern
Alaska became visible as we passed an arm or fiord
named Taku Inlet. We soon reached Harrisburg or
Juneau, a mining settlement. Immediately opposite
is situated the largest gold mine and stamp-mills in
Alaska ; the ore averages from nine to fifty dollars a
ton, but the quartz is easily pulverised, and supply
said to be inexhaustible. We next threaded a long
narrow arm walled in by steep rocks and glaciers,

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 165

which at the end divides into two branches, named
Chilcoot and Chilcat, after the Indian inhabitants.
This is the last and highest portion of this curious
archipelago and island-studded shore. North of this
the stern Alaskan coast stretches out for hundreds of
miles, without harbours or shelter except at Yakatat,
uninhabited, untraversed, and unknown, composed of
chains of some of the most gigantic peaks upon the
globe.

This was our work which lay before us. It stirs
the blood to be pioneers in a region such as this.

This Chilcat inlet and river is the only way to the
source of the great Yukon Eiver, which my friend
and fellow-traveller Schwatka had lately visited and
followed to Behring Straits.

The steamer next turned southwards, and after pass-
ing Icy Strait visited Glacier Bay to give us a chance
of seeing the southern verge of the great frozen
regions which lie to the northward, partly under the
British, partly under the American flag. This bay is
so called from the large number of glaciers which
here reach the ocean; in front of Muir Glacier the
water is deep, and the Ancon was able to steam close
up under the cliffs of ice, which rise up like a vast,
broken, marble precipice, showering down icebergs
from its green and glasslike fissures. Six months
later the Ancon was wrecked in this very spot;
though I was a thousand miles away to the north-
ward at the time, yet most of my effects were on
board, and got wet in consequence. This glacier is

166 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

small compared with others I saw, and which we
named, situated near St. Elias, and especially one
which I named Behring's Great Glacier, near Cape
Suckling, south of the Copper Eiver ; yet it is by no
means small, as the following measurements show.
At one point the glacier is 10,664 ft. wide; a solid
stream of ice 5,000 ft. in width and 700 ft. in depth is
continually entering the sea, and when the measure-
ments were taken it was moving at the rate of 40 ft.
each day. Not a tree can be seen upon the bare
ice-polished mountains surrounding it.

In a westerly direction, under the rays of the even-
ing sun, we could descry the summits of the follow-
ing grand peaks — of Mount La Perouse (11,300 ft.),
Mount Lituya (10,000 ft.), Mount Crillon (15,900 ft.),
Mount Fairweather (15,500 ft.). Here is an easily
accessible range of unconquered mountains for
the Alpine Club. We were bent on a worthier
enemy, namely, one 19,500 ft. to 20,000 ft. in
height.

This would be a good opportunity for a few
remarks on the exact position,* topographical and
political, of Mount St. Elias, which I did not lay
enough stress upon before the Eoyal Geographical
Society. This, the highest mountain on the conti-
nent; belongs not to the United States, who have
wrongfully claimed it, but to Canada. The former
have removed it (on paper) several miles west of the

* See Alpine Journal, November, 1888, and subsequently.
(Longmans, Green & Co.)

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 167

international boundary line, which was declared by
treaty to be the 141st meridian of longitude.

Vancouver, the eminent navigator and surveyor, in
his travels, states that the length of time he had
remained within sight of these two very remarkable
mountains — meaning Mount Fairweather and Mount
St. Elias — had afforded him many opportunities of
estimating their height and for observations for ascer-
taining their situation. That of the latter he gave as
lat. 60° 22|', and E. long. 219° 21'. Not only does
Vancouver give this position for the great peak, but
his observations are very closely confirmed by the
other navigators.

As a first step towards appropriating the highest
mountain on the continent — I don't say it was not
done in good faith or on strict scientific principles —
the present head of the U.S. Coast Survey at San
Francisco (namely, Professor G. Davidson, who is a
most respected friend of mine) was lucky enough to
discover that the best place on the map for Mount
St. Elias was exactly in lat. 60° 22' 6", and W. long.
140° 54' (or dreadfully close to the frontier), which
is, as stated above, on long. 140°, this being farther
west than Vancouver's position by fifteen minutes of
arc and farther south by twenty-four minutes. This
southing as well as this westing helped to make
Mount St. Elias more American than before, because
the frontier by the treaty was to run from the 141st
meridian parallel to the coast at a distance from it of
ten leagues, except when the summit of the water-

168 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

shed came within that zone, in which case it was to
follow that. This position was then incorporated in
the U.S. Coast Pilot of Alaska.

Before making another jump — and this time clear
across the boundary — St. Elias waited for the next
edition of the volume above-named, and finally alighted
in lat. 60° 20' 45" and long. 141° 0' 12". Some San
Francisco papers lately stated these facts ; but when I
landed there from Alaska in 1886, though they pro-
fessed to desire information, they informed me that
any such claim of depriving the United States of
Mount St. Elias made through their columns would
inflict an injury on their reputation and adversely
affect their circulation.

Soon after leaving Glacier Bay the steamer reached
its destination, Sitka, the chief town in Alaska, beau-
tifully situated in a bay about thirty miles across,
bordered by mountains from four to six thousand feet
high. Twenty years ago, when Alaska was yet part
of Eussia, Sitka was the headquarters of the Eussian
Trading Company, and their great timber- built sheds
still attest the solidity with which they were con-
structed.

The U.S. steamship Pinta— named, I suppose, after
the vessel of Columbus — had orders to take our Expe-
dition along the dangerous piece of coast as far as
Yakatat Bay, close to Mount St. Elias. But owing
to want of coal Captain Nicholls was unable to start
for another fortnight ; so I occupied the time first by
a fishing and hunting excursion to the extinct volcano

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 169

called Mount Edgcumbe across the bay (which, we
made 3,060 feet in height), and then to a salmon
river situated in another part of Sitka Sound.

The party (which the local paper — where is a local
paper not to be found in the United States ? — described
as " young gentlemen in search of the picturesque in
Nature, who evidently mean business, though it is all
for pleasure") consisted of three Americans, two
Frenchmen, and one Englishman.* The result of it
all was half-a-dozen little Virginian deer — which on
some of the islands are very numerous, some eagles,
any amount of salmon and black bass, and an un-
limited supply of fun. Forest fires, which lay waste
areas of great extent in British Columbia and in
many parts of the States, are unknown on this portion
of the coast, owing to the dampness of the climate ;
the forests are consequently so dense as to render
locomotion almost impracticable ; and the luxuriance
of their growth -and that of the various mosses and
lichens which love dampness is quite sub-tropical in
character.

On the morning of July 10th, 1886, the Mount
St. Elias Expedition embarked on the U.S. warship
Pinta — a glorified tug-boat, which bore us safely to
our destination, while the good-will and hospitality
of her captain and officers made up for all deficiencies
in her construction ; and after all, so long as no gale

* Prof. Libbey, Messrs. Higginbotham of Chicago, Seton-
Karr, Yisconte de la Eiviere, and M. de la Sabliere, and three
Sitkan Indians.

170 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

came on, she was equal to doing all required of her,
which merely consisted in frightening the Indians
into a state of loyalty. Next day the last of the shel-
tering islands was left behind, and we enjoyed a mag-
nificent view of Mount Eairweather at some distance
from the coast, a glittering ice-pinnacle from sea to
summit, 15,500 feet in height.

Early the following morning, as I stepped on deck,
we were steering towards the village of Yakatat
Indians situated at the entrance of the large bay
called Yakatat or Behring Bay. The atmosphere was
cloudless, and brilliant with the transparency of sun-
rise. At a distance of about sixty miles rose the
great snow-covered dome-like pinnacle over whose
praises the early navigators had grown so enthusiastic,
rising above a coast upon which none but an Indian had
ever set his foot, and which had attracted me hither
from the shores of England — a vast mass 20,000 feet
high, festooned with ice, a frightful pyramid, the
like of which exists not elsewhere on the globe, and
to whose top no living man shall ever climb.*
Imagine that you see a mountain of ice, snow, and
rock twice as high as Mont Blanc as seen perhaps
from Chamounix, rising from the sea; that is the

* A party, consisting of Messrs. E. H. and H. W. Topham,
George Broke, and William Williams, the latter an American,
and connected with, the Alaska Commercial Company, all of them
being members of the English Alpine Club, left Victoria, B.C.,
on June 5th, 1888, to attempt Mount St. Elias, on which they
attained a height of 11,000 feet, and returned after a series of
exciting and perilous experiences.

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 171

appearance presented by Mount St. Elias ; or cover
Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Great Britain,
with ice, and place it on the top of Mont Blanc, like
Ossa upon Pelion, and the total height thus attained
would fall short of the actual height of the summit of
St. Elias above the ocean at its foot.

After dropping anchor opposite the Yakatat village,
we waited in vain for any sign of life. The entire
tribe had seen the warship coming and had fled. They
had had previous experience of her when she had
come to demand the surrender of two Indians who had
taken refuge here after having murdered some white
men. After a great deal of patient waiting, however,
an old blind medicine man — as we judged by his long
uncut hair, made his appearance j and by means of
our boy interpreter, it was explained to him that we
wished to hire the services of half-a-dozen strong
Indians and two of their largest canoes.

To make a long matter short, it is sufficient to say
that after a great expenditure of time, three Indians
were induced to accompany us, but no canoes could
be had, although the Pinta waited here with us for
five whole days. Before the expiration of that time
the tribe had gained confidence in our pacific inten-
tions, and the empty houses became as if by magic
repeopled with a score of swarthy families, and we
were able to negotiate with the chief in person, and to
exchange our " trading material," which we had
brought in place of money, for Indian native curiosi-
ties of various kinds, after an immense amount of hag-

172 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

gling or " chin-music." These curiosities consisted
of baskets manufactured out of roots, dyed and plaited
into various designs, charms, bows and arrows, carved
walrus tusks, and wild goat and sheep-horn spoons.
But the greatest treasures of the kind were obtained
by one of the officers (who requested me not to make
known his name in case the Indians might get wind
of it). It is the custom when a medicine man dies to
bury all his belongings, charms, and " medicines "
with him in his grave, which is a large wooden struc-
ture. From one of these he procured two sacks' full
of the most extraordinary implements, comprising
masks, rattles, and grotesque images, with which evil
spirits were exorcised, a shawl of leather trimmed
with sea-parrots' bills, and a crown of wild goat's
horns. Meanwhile we revelled in wild strawberries,
which grew in great profusion, in clams, and in wild
fowl, which were abundant along the shore.

"We also made the acquaintance — to our great sur-
prise, not expecting to find a white man — of a young
Swedish trader. He informed us that in a month a
small schooner would call and fetch him away. He
expressed himself as pleased to see the man-o'-war,
because the Indians had lately behaved towards him
in a threatening manner, and he had told the medicine
man that a warship would soon arrive to chastise them
unless they mended their manners. Our timely arri-
val had thus acted as a corroboration.

At length in the evening of July 16th, we weighed
anchor for Icy Bay, a point considerably nearer to

ALASKA, THE GREAT ICE LAND. 173

St. Elias than Yakatat, with three Indians on board,
but no canoes. The United States navy, however, in
the shape of Captain Nicholls, came to our rescue by
offering us the use of one of the large boats belonging
to the vessel, which after we had landed would enable
us to return to Yakatat, there to await the return of
the Pinta in September.

Early next morning anchor was dropped in the so-
called Icy Bay, which in reality was no bay at all,
opposite to a spot indicated by the Indians as the best,
but without shelter from the almost ceaseless swell on
which the ship rolled uneasily. The breakers were
thundering upon a steep shore composed of sand and
shingle ; beyond these were visible the tree-tops of an
extensive forest, and beyond the forest a long white
line of ice, which gradually approached the sea on
either side, enclosing the trees as it were in its icy
arms, till glacier and ocean met and formed a long
frontage, extending as far as the eye could see, of
arctic cliffs. The task we now had before us was to
land our stores, which comprised several boat loads.
After delaying for some hours in hopes of the surf
abating without observing any improvement, Lieute-
nant Emmons succeeded in reaching the beach on the
crest of a huge billow, paying out rope from a small
anchor which he had dropped as an assistance in
putting off again.

ALASKA, MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PEINCE WILLIAM

SOUND.

Icy Bay — Bears and other Animals — The Start— Quicksands — A lost
Explorer— Gigantic Glaciers— Our final Attempt to reach the Summit —
A Battle with the Surf —Death of Three Indians— A Schooner arrives —
I leave the Others and voyage Northwards— A Hunter's Home— Sea
Otter Hunters— Drunken Indians — Estuary of the Copper Eiver — Our
Life at Nuchuk— The Trade in Furs — Myriads of Salmon— Game of
Prince William Sound— Voyage to Kodiak— A Fearful Tragedy.

WHEN the Pinta finally steamed away with a fare-
well whistle and left us to our fate, cut off from all the
world, we could barely summon sufficient courage to
pitch the tents and stow away our provisions under
shelter. I could realise the feelings of an Alexander
Selkirk. A vague anxiety, like some unquiet • fore-
boding, oppressed me at the thought of the Pacific
surf. If it rarely became more peaceful and less for-
midable than it then was, our attempt to leave when
the time came might be fraught with disaster. But
meanwhile we could comfort ourselves with wild
strawberries, which dotted the sward in millions, some
nearly an inch in diameter ; and with gazing on the
tracks of bear, some of which impressions were quite
recent, and measured 14 inches in length by 8 in
width, crossing the sand-dunes in every direction,
varied by the smaller footmarks of foxes. The Indians,
too, casting care to the winds, went out with clubs
and a gun after seal, to gorge themselves on the blub-
ber, and as we had no objection to fresh meat, I insti-

MOUNT ST. ELIAS, AND PBINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 175

tuted a pursuit after wild swans, with the professor in
a diminutive " dug-out," which we had purchased at
Yakatat. These birds were evidently newly fledged,
and kept circling about a large lagoon in the forest ;
altogether a couple were secured. Besides the three
Indians, we had brought two miners from Sitka, one
of whom " started out "after bear, without success,
though later on he killed three.

Since the day of our arrival at Yakatat we had not
enjoyed any further glimpse of Mount St. Elias, but
now the great peak gave signs of casting aside its
nebulous envelope, and appearing to gladden our eyes
with a sight of its magnificence, and to oppress our
hearts with the magnitude of the task we had under-
taken. The clouds commenced shifting uneasily, like
side-scenes at a theatre preparatory to a change.
"When it finally emerged in all its glory, we were dis-
appointed to find how far off it still seemed. Seals
also delighted us by appearing upon the beach, close
to camp ; over fifteen hundred are said to have been
killed in three days in Yakatat Bay, and after observ-
ing the ease with which the Indians had procured
them here, it was not difficult to believe it.

The following morning the party left camp for our
first march in the direction of Mount St. Elias, each
one carrying packs of about sixty pounds' weight,
leaving the professor in camp to follow us the next
day, when the Indians should have returned for sup-
plementary loads. We first crossed a small, ice-cold,
muddy river ; one of the Indians transporting me on

176 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

his back, and finally depositing me in a sitting pos-
ture in eighteen inches of water ; but Mr. Schwatka,
who weighed eighteen stone, was landed quite dry
upon the opposite side. We then crossed a fine ex-
panse of sand on which strawberries were growing in
great profusion, and came upon a great river over six
miles in width, and of a shallow, rapid character. We
were now compelled to follow the bank of this stream,
and spent the remainder of the day in terror of our
lives, now stepping gingerly over the undulating sur-
face of some vast quicksand, in the utmost trepidation
lest it should give way beneath us and engulf us
within its slimy bosom, now wading some rushing
affluent of an almost freezing temperature ; camping
at length on some gravel below the ice-cliffs of a
glacier, thankful that our day's work was done. It
was a cruel, repulsive, gigantic river, fit offspring of
the vast glaciers which cover the entire country, with
the exception of one or two verdant spots. Its waters
were swift and of a milky thickness covered by a dark
oily scum. Close to the spot which we had chosen
for our camp, it issued from under the ice-cliffs from
a thousand openings ; two great glaciers advancing
from opposite directions had met each other and buried
between them this mighty stream, leaving nothing
visible but an expanse of broken ice of enormous
thickness, and hushing its murmur to a deathlike
stillness. Higher up and nearer to St. Elias, this
river comes again to the surface. The glaciers around
were of huge thickness, entirely covered for some

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 177

miles by loose stones and moraines, which in turn
were densely overgrown by shrubs and fir-trees offer-
ing an exceedingly difficult obstacle to progression.
The following day the Indians returned, and the day
after brought up the rest of the party.

On the 22nd the whole of us resumed the march
together. Curious sounds emanated from the glaciers,
crackings which appeared to travel for great dis-
tances around us, mingled with the distant rumblings
of avalanches. Hitherto we had been moving through
the forests and along the margin of the great river
in the beaten track of bruin, for the brown bear
is the road-maker of Alaska ; a sense of his presence
continually oppressed us ; we were always expecting
to meet him on his own narrow pathway which he
had made for himself. When I first beheld him our
rifles had been left behind, he was browsing upon the
luscious skunk-cabbage and resembled an animated
rick. I suppose he was of the species known to
traders by the colour of the skin as a St. Elias grizzly,
of a greyish white, and said by the Indian hunters to
be exceedingly dangerous when wounded. All his
life is spent among snows and glaciers, hence his
polar characteristics. Bears as a rule are difficult to
find owing to their powers of scent, though it must
be allowed that it would not be necessary that their
sense of smell should be very keen in order to
"wind" an average Indian in his blanket. When
they are caught sight of on the Alaskan mountains
they are usually going or coming like a locomotive, as

N

178 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

though in either case they could not make tracks
fast enough. On one occasion we were enjoying a
mid- day siesta on the ice when we were startled by a
ridiculous series of noises, commencing with an
avalanche of rocks and stones from the moraines as
though dislodged by a bear walking past, and ending
up in a loud whirr of wings, making the lieutenant's
heart dangle in his throat, when we saw not a bear,
or an eagle, but a beautiful little iridescent humming
bird, the very last thing in creation we should have
expected to find in a land of glaciers. We soon found
ourselves marching upon solid ice. The terminal
moraines of these glaciers were of enormous extent
— veritable mountains of loose rocks 8 to 10 miles
in breadth, and underneath them lay the glacier ice
from 3 to 600 feet in thickness. One glacier we
named the Great Agassiz Glacier, another the Great
Guyot Glacier, another the Tyndall Glacier, and
another of enormous area situated, as previously men-
tioned, farther north, Behring's Great Glacier, as that
portion of the coast was the first portion seen by him
after quitting Behring Sea. A large lake we named
Lake Castani, after the president of the Italian Geo-
graphical Society.

On the 23rd of July we lost the professor, but found
him again on the following day. The Indians showed
signs of insubordination. On the 24th we camped in
a small patch of timber near the edge of the glacier.
Close by, some reservoir in the ice had burst its
bounds and the rush of water was carrying away

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 179

everything in front of it, deporting rocks and dis-
placing icebergs as though, they were straws. "We
had kindled bonfires to show our whereabouts to the
lost explorer, while the glacier itself was advancing
and burying the forest. Everything, including the
very elements, seemed leagued together in destruction.
The professor was unable to proceed farther. Next
day was spent in traversing the great Tyndall Glacier.
Here my boots gave out, but after a delay of half an
hour I managed to patch the rent with the " tongue"
cut out of one of Mr. Schwatka' s boots. Our camp-
ing place that night was our last and highest, and
consequently our coldest. Next morning, at the early
hour of half-past four, John "Woods (a miner), Mr.
Schwatka and I roped ourselves together in the
order given, and taking Esquimaux coats of reindeer
skin, scientific instruments and the whole of the
remaining provisions, started with our ice axes to
attack the peak. At three in the afternoon Mr.
Schwatka gave in ; he was thoroughly out of training
and weighed no less than 18 stone, or 250 Ibs. as he
called it, and was in a most alarming condition from
repeatedly getting chilled on the ice while in a state
of perspiration. I have since been assured by expe-
rienced climbers that if a snow-bridge had given way
beneath his weight, the rope with which he was
attached to us must have broken or Woods and I
would have been dragged after him into a crevasse.
Soon afterwards I sent Woods back to attend to my
friend, and at seven in the evening found I had

N 2

180 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

reached a height of 7,200 feet on a spur of St. Elias,
though not actually on the main mass. The entire
country was almost entirely composed of glaciers ;
their area where they are almost perfectly flat cannot be
less round Mount St. Elias alone, and included between
Cape Spencer, the Pacific Ocean, the Copper Eiver,
and a line drawn parallel to the sea at a distance of
50 miles, than 10,000 square miles, or including all
the ice within this area, than 17,000 square miles.
Excepting Greenland these glaciers are the most
extensive in the world outside the arctic or antarctic
regions.

On the 30th of July we found ourselves back again
at Icy Bay. The boat was hauled down the beach
and packed with the baggage ; by midnight we were
all ready to start. We numbered nine persons, and
found it as much as we could do to move her sea-
wards on the underwash of each succeeding wave. We
discarded boots and coats. The water felt freezingly
cold, and was almost fresh and sweet enough to drink,
owing to the huge volumes poured into the ocean by
the melting of the surrounding glaciers. The surf, as
might have been expected, appeared enormous ; a
few yards from land the water was deep, and the
waves, therefore, broke only when they had arrived
close in to the shore. Presently a huge roller advanced
towards us like a wall of water, the foam rushed under
us and caused us to gasp for breath. Now was the
moment. Exerting our strength, we rushed the boat
down upon the retiring flood. We were now nearer

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PJRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 181

to danger than before. Some water had even entered
the craft, which seemed glued to the sand. Now — now
was the time again ! Nine voices yelled in chorus.
Next instant every one was smothered from head to
foot in foam. We seemed like madmen having a
nightmare. Behind us was starvation, in front of us
was death. Every one seized some package and bore
it back to shore. Fortunately the matches were dry.
So ended our first attempt to leave Icy Bay. Next
time we made the attempt the surf had calmed a little,
and we succeeded two days later, but at the cost of
abandoning some of our packages of least value. The
moment was certainly a critical one ; but the surf
was more regular, and we were able to select the
moment for the last rush with certainty. From the
sea Mount St. Elias looked magnificent. Our deserted
tent showed up white against the black forests, which
contrasted in turn against the glaciers beyond. For
miles and miles we skirted the ice cliffs of the Great
Agassiz Glacier, surrounded by quantities of seals in
the thick white water, and reached the Yakatat village
once again by sunset. They crowded round us, men,
women, and children, without offering to help us ;
their faces painted black and red with a mixture of
clay, grease, and blood, and with charcoal. On the
4th of August the traders' schooner arrived, of twenty
tons burden, and they offered to take us to Kaiak
Island, farther north, whence we could take a canoe
to Prince William Sound, and thence reach Kodiak,
and eventually California, by sailing vessel or small

182 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

steamer of the Alaska Commercial Company. I ac-
cepted their offer, being anxious to visit the country
farther north. The others preferred returning by the
Pinta when she should come. A large proportion of
our time was meanwhile consumed in trading with the
Indians for " curios," a large amount of both patience
and "chin music " being absolutely necessary. Some
fireworks were exhibited, and the strongest man
among the Indians wrestled with John Dalton. But
while we were thus passing our time in dissipations of
this harmless character a tragedy was in store. We
could see that for some reason the Indians were now
avoiding the neighbourhood of our camp. A fiendish
series of noises was continually audible in the village,
mingled with the howlings of the horrible Indian dogs.
Unable to restrain our curiosity, we set forth in a
body to find out what was in the wind, and were
horrified when we discovered the truth. The old
blind medicine-man was plying his loathsome trade,
with every manner of accessory calculated to heighten
the effect. It seemed that three Indians were at the
point of death, and many others seriously ill, having
made and eaten bread with arsenic, which one of the
Indians had taken from among the articles left at Icy
Bay by one of our white men, supposing it to be
baking-powder. We endeavoured to induce those
who had swallowed the poison to swallow an emetic,
though the chief would not allow any of his own
utensils to suffer contamination by the sick. Those
who did so recovered ; three who refused our aid,

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 183

and preferred trusting to the shaman, died, and were
subsequently cremated. Our position would have
been exceedingly critical, and the Indians might
have exacted a bloody retribution from us, had they
not been aware that the dreaded gun-boat would
shortly return.

We frequently visited the sick, and the medicine-
man's mode of procedure was so peculiar that it de-
serves a word of description. In the centre of a large
Indian hut, by a fire, lay one of the sick, a man, on
his back. His naked stomach was being rubbed by
women with their saliva. Around were grouped in a
wide circle some Indians making a monotonous noise
with tom-toms. By the side of the sick man crouched
the shaman in a state of nudity, excepting for a dis-
coloured loin-cloth, and shining with perspiration and
grease. An assistant was engaged in blowing over
him a cloud of young eagles' down, which naturally
adhered to his skin, covered as it was with fat. The
effect produced by this process was very remarkable.
He kept shouting and swaying his body in time with
the tom-toms, occasionally placing some charm upon
the patient in the shape of a rattle or a figure of a
man, rudely carved, and having upon its chest an
enormous frog with a tongue protruding from its jaws,
and inserted into the mouth of its victim.

Soon afterwards I set sail for Kaiak in the
small schooner, manned and owned by two Swedes.
The others returned safely, if uneventfully, in the
Pinta, which came for them in due time. My own

184 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

adventures, however, were by no means over. The
distance from Yakatat to Kaiak is about one hundred
and eighty land miles, which we accomplished in five
days, keeping within a mile or two of the land,
without mishap or adventure. While off the coast
eighty miles to the west of St. Elias, near Cape Suck-
ling, I discovered an exceedingly large glacier, ap-
parently about thirty miles in breadth, which by
right of discovery I named Behring's Great Glacier.
The early navigators mistook the true nature of these
stupendous fields of ice, La Perouse describing them
as " snow lying upon a barren soil, unembellished by
a single tree,'7 and " a plain totally destitute of
verdure."

On the voyage we fired a large number of shots at
seals and sea-otters, and on August 14th we reached
Kaiak, a small island separated from the mainland by
a narrow channel, which these Swedes had chosen
for their remote and solitary home. To my surprise
I found a woman here, Nils Andersen's wife, and
learnt that on the mainland two other Scandinavians
had lately built a log hut and intended to pass the
winter hunting.

I spent a fortnight with these self-appointed exiles
in their lonely home, and learnt a good many facts
from them relative to their life and the habits of the
sea- otter, in the pursuit of which they gain their
livelihood. This remarkable animal, so far as I am
aware, carries the most valuable coat of any other
living thing, except an occasional black fox whose

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 185

skin may command a fancy price. It bears a fur
unmatched for softness, colour, thickness, and dura-
bility. Their capture is generally effected by means
of nets laid during the winter near their haunts in
the water, generally some surf-swept rock which can
oaly be approached during intervals of calm. When
two are taken in the same net they invariably kill each
other, and are so powerful that they are able to carry
nets, leads, and all with them to the surface of the
water in order to breathe, being warm-blooded air-
breathing animals. The Indians, on the contrary,
hunt this animal as a rule only during summer, and
instead of guns or rifles prefer bows and arrows, the
latter with detachable barbs. It was not from any
love of solitude that these Swedes had sought this
remote and savage spot, but owing to the number of
rival white sea-otter hunters near their last place of
residence — on a small island named Gusina, near
Bellkoffsky, a trading post at the extremity of the
Alaskan peninsula. Nils also informed me of facts
about seal-skins of which I was previously unaware,
namely, that fur seal-skins are dyed best in London
by a certain firm, where they are consequently sent
from San Francisco, the secret never having been
discovered.

After passing a fortnight on the island, I prepared
to continue the journey — this time in an Indian
canoe — to Prince William Sound. I was to be
accompanied by two of the white men, who it seemed
were returning to Sweden for a last visit, as they

186 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

declared, to their native land. Two Indians and a
squaw assisted to paddle, one of the former being a
medicine-man and owner of the canoe, which was a
fine new one of great size and beauty carved out of a
single tree- trunk. The first night was spent in camp
at a small settlement of most dissolute and drunken
Indians known as Martin Point, situated near a pro-
montory at the corner of the delta of the Atna or
Copper Eiver. Our medicine-man was obdurate in
refusing to proceed any farther that day, being
determined with his squaw to join the crazy inhabi-
tants of this wretched village in the pot-latch or
debauch they were celebrating with a vile spirit they
are able to distil from sugar. While this festival was
proceeding I sallied out and was fortunate enough to
slay a bear. He was apparently engaged in looking
for fish in a stream, and I was able to plant an express
bullet in a vital part behind the shoulder which
instantly proved fatal. In the morning the shaman
had hardly recovered from his drunken orgie when
we started, having found it necessary to hire two
more Indians to assist in transporting the canoe
over the bar into the estuary of the Copper Eiver.
The whole tribe appeared to be still in a half-drunken
condition, but fortunately amiably disposed towards us.
"We next crossed part of the tidal lagoons of the
Copper Eiver delta, pushing the canoe before us when
the tide was out, like an unwieldy sledge over the
black slippery oose, finally camping upon a little island.
A semicircle of graceful peaks and glaciers surround

MOUNT ST. ELI AS AND PEINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 187

the delta of this curious river. Two more nights
were spent in camp in different picturesque coves,
where we found abundance of salmon, a description of
which fish as seen in Alaska must be reserved for
Nuchuk, which we reached on the fifth day.

Nuchuk, or Port Etches, is a solitary and remote
trading post of the Alaska Commercial Company,
situated in a noble bay on Hinchinbrook Island, in
Prince William Sound, whither the Indians resort
from the surrounding districts in order to dispose of
their furs to the white agent. A schooner, bringing
the winter supplies, was due, and might have arrived
any day ; but we had a weary wait of no less than
eight weeks before she appeared. This interval I spent
in short expeditions of different kinds, not venturing
to absent myself for more than a day or two at a time.
The trader, who had been selected for the post by the
Alaska Commercial Company, was a Yankee skipper,
apparently of middle age, an autocrat, whose word
was law amongst the little community, which con-
sisted of half-civilised Chugamutes, some of them
half Eussian in blood. All were professed Christians,
and close by the trader's house stood a very diminu-
tive wooden church, built after the Kussian style, to
which they regularly contributed and in which they
regularly assembled for worship, which was conducted
with much superstitious genuflection. The trader
himself never entered the building. The priest was a
little Alaskan Eussian, called Mcolai, half Indian in
appearance. He cooked the trader's meals and kept

188 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the kitchen tidy and " loaned " his young daughter to
be the trader's temporary wife ; but he himself lived
in a separate house with his own wife. Her little
brother and sister and an Indian boy called Gustia
were the other inmates. Of course my two Swedish
companions were well known to the trader.

The life of this man, varied by the biennial visits
of the Company's schooner, thus resembled that of an
employe of the Hudson's Bay Company, excepting
that the English Company insists that its store-
keepers, who have to lead a lonely, autocratic life,
shall all be married men accompanied by their wives.

The trader had instructed a few of the Indian men
and girls in the mysteries of the quadrille, and
several of the boys played the accordion fairly, and
we passed several evenings with these diversions, first
in the house of Yanga, brother of the second Indian
chief, who had removed his stove and door to afford
room for the dancers, then in the huts of Peter the
Shekaizik, or second chief himself, and of Pavil the
Tyoon or chief. Tame wild duck, goats, geese, and
children, and a medley of non- dancers, occupied all
the available corner-room, and formed one of the most
peculiar scenes I have ever witnessed. Of course the
trader, the two Swedes, and I, had to dance repeatedly
with each and every squaw, excepting when two of
the men danced a pas- de- deux so energetically as to
sway the house with their leaps and caperings.
Words of command were repeated by the trader for
each figure, such as " sides forward and back, one

MOUNT ST. ELTAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 189

lady over," or " grand right and left with double
swing." This latter was rather a complicated convo-
lution for the Indian intellect, and invariably ended
in hilarious collisions.

And then the supper ! One's hat, of course, was
never taken off. The refreshment was a collation of
" pilot-bread " and strong tea, and what appetites we
had ! Men first, ladies afterwards. So much for our
evening dissipations.

When the money was all gone the whole tribe
would start out for a sea-otter hunt, if the weather
was fine, after filing into the church for the priestly
blessing on the expedition, without entering their
huts again. The bows and blood-painted arrows are
immensely strong, and I brought a number with me
to England. For each sea-otter skin, large or small,
whatever its value might be, the trader paid them a
fixed price. The pursuit of the animal, its exhaus-
tion, and its death, have been fully described by
Petroff (" United States Tenth Census "). The value
of a good skin is now about £20. They are becoming
scarcer gradually, and in all probability will soon be
almost unprocurable. The value has varied from
10 dollars in the time of the Russians up to 200 dol-
lars, or £40. From 1870 to 1880 the Company
bought 40,283 sea-otter skins for 60 dollars each
from the native hunters. By becoming acquainted
with new luxuries and new wants, the Indians become
more assiduous in procuring skins.

Let me describe a day at Nuchuk as a sample of

190 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

my life there during the fifty-four days we waited for
the wished-for schooner.

I have determined to go out on a salmon-spearing
expedition, but meantime a couple of Indians have
arrived to trade from Tateekluk, a little Indian village
in P.W.S., in their bidarky. This is a beautiful canoe
to hold three, made of seal or sea-lion skin. They
wear coats of whales' guts or bears' guts, which are
tied to the rim of each circular opening in the deck,
in which they sit. The paddles glitter in the sun-
light as they shoot shore wards like an arrow, and
leaping out carry the craft above high-water mark,
and take from the interior a bear's hams, a heron, a
" silver" salmon, some wild goats' meat, and a bundle
of furs — sea- otter, land-otter, red and white fox,
mink, marten, beaver, musk-rat, and lynx. These
are sold for trade dollars to the trader, and are soon
paid back again in exchange for tea, sugar, flour,
tobacco, cloth, and various other articles. Presently
I leave in my bidarky, with an Indian, for the
nearest river, about three miles distant. Tied along-
side are our spears, the barbs loose, and secured to
the shaft by a thong. The river is a shallow little
stream, only four inches deep in places, but crowded
with u hog-back" salmon, the only kind "running"
at this time of year, except a few "red" salmon, a
much superior kind for edible purposes. There are
four other kinds named and known to the traders in
these parts. First, the " chavicha," or king salmon,
six feet long, and weighing about one hundred

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 191

pounds; next the " silver," the " steel-head," and the
" dog " salmon. In many parts of the stream the backs
of the fish are above water as they struggle across
the gravel in their efforts to ascend, with an immense
amount of splashing. Some are covered with patches
of white, like fungoid growths, but which are really
wounds and scratches. Here, in one little rivulet, is
fish enough for an army. The bank is carpeted with
dead bodies of salmon, and the stench is appalling.
In the deeper parts long processions swim up and
down without any fear of the canoe, in which I fre-
quently, when the tide was in, ascended the river for
a considerable distance. There was no difficulty, and
very little sport, in spearing as many as one wished.
Throwing out a spoonbait or hook fastened to a few
yards of rope, for my rod has been lost long since, I
can feel the whole line borne up and prevented from
sinking by the mass of fish, and drawing it in slowly,
am sure of catching one by some portion of his
body.

Near the traders was a small Eussian bath-house,
which every one used in turn on a certain day of the
week, generally the last.

In the commencement of October flocks of wild
geese came flying southwards and eastwards in
myriads, and on the 9th there came a fall of snow.

In January the sea-lions arrive in Prince "William
Sound, and the seals in May, Throughout the winter
the numbers of wild fowl to be seen is something
fabulous. With an old trade-gun I shot large

192 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

numbers, and we almost existed upon them, varied
by wild sheep, wild goat, bear-meat, and salt pork,
and on berries of different kinds.

Having given up the schooner as hopeless, I endea-
voured to persuade some of the Indians to accompany
me to Kodiak in canoes, but none would undertake
that perilous journey. Suddenly, on October 16th,
the schooner arrived, and a week later I found myself
at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, after what seemed to me
a terribly dangerous and fearfully stormy passage.
This small settlement is the headquarters in this part
of Alaska of the Commercial Company, though the
main portion of their business is carried on upon the
Seal Islands.

A few days later occurred a tragedy of the most
desperate character. It was the last day of October,
and the following morning we were to sail for Cali-
fornia, across nearly two thousand miles of stormy
ocean in the stormiest time of the year. We were
seated at a long table at the evening meal, Mr. Ivan
Petroff on my right, another white man opposite, at
the foot a storekeeper, and at the head of the table
the general agent of the Company, who was to sail
with us on the morrow. A fearful explosion suddenly
filled the apartment with smoke, covering the table
with fragments of broken glass and china. The general
agent fell back dead in his chair, and another man fell
down mortally wounded, and then rushed from the
room streaming with gore. The broken window
showed that some one had fired a shot from without.

MOUNT ST. ELIAS AND PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND. 193

It would be needless to dwell upon the painful cha-
racter of the occurrences on the succeeding day ; how
we searched the place fruitlessly for the suspected
criminal — a Eussian.

Two days later we set sail, bearing with us the
wounded man and the corpse of the murdered one.
May I never have such another experience in a
ninety-ton schooner ! How the winds blew ! Oh ! the
horror of that passage, with a delirious victim, a
corpse, and a drunken and abusive captain for com-
panions. For days together the wheel was lashed,
and we lay, with hardly a stitch of canvas showing,
hove-to in furious hurricanes of wind, shut in below
with the stench of the bilge-water. How thankful
I was at last to arrive at San Francisco, after a pas-
sage which seemed a lifetime, but endured in reality
for just fifteen days !

GEEAT EIYEES OF FINLAND.

Journey to Copenhagen and Stockholm — Voyage to Helsingfors — Uleaborg
— Fishing in the lijoki — Fishing in the Kemi — Fishing in the Tornea —
Fishing in the Uleo — How to reach Finland.

THE storm which reached the shores of England on
the 19th of May had caught us as we were leaving
Hamburg ; had pursued us across the North Sea to
Copenhagen, making that picturesque town a very
damp and windy one ; had succeeded in curtailing our
stay there and blowing us across the straits to Malmo,
and had rendered even the snug Swedish railway
carriages incapable of excluding the raindrops on the
windward side ; and was finally blowing a whole gale
as we waited on the Norrbro at Stockholm, undecided
whether to embark upon the very diminutive steamer,
which was to cross that same night to Finland, or no.
The wavering balance of inclination at length kicked
the beam in favour of a boat at least four and a quarter
sizes larger, sailing the next day direct to Helsingfors.
The wind departed, together with the smaller of the
two steamers, leaving a universal calm, the same
evening, annoying and beautiful to contemplate. A
slight acquaintance with the archipelago of the million
islands which divides the twin Gulfs of Bothnia and
of Finland, into which the Baltic bifurcates, would
have informed one what a wonderfully intricate and

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 195

protected route is followed by these little boats, until
the settled calms of midsummer embolden them to
venture across the open sea. The inlets and outlets
of the Malar, with its fiords and islands, in the vicinity
of Stockholm, are dotted with numerous charming
chalets placed near the water's edge along this tideless
sea, each one with its small bathing-house and boat-
house snugly sheltered amongst the forest trees, the
country seats of the merchants and inhabitants of
Stockholm and of Upsala. In the very centre of the
entrance to the Bothnian Gulf lies the large straggling
island of Oland, surrounded by such a vast number of
smaller islets of multitudinous dimensions and shapes,
that ordinary maps are content with barely indicating
their existence, while some have given even that up
as hopeless, leaving the traveller to imagine that the
open sea stretched itself out rockless and unbroken
from the Swedish coast to the mainland of the Grand
Duchy of Finland.

When we see such an overwhelming number of
islands fringing the coast of such a flat country as
Finland, we may expect the interior to contain a
corresponding number of lakes within a small area.
Never was this rule, if rule it be, so abundantly
carried out as it is in Finland.

Through this maze of projecting points the steamer
wound her sinuous and changing course, pointing now
north and now south, but generally somewhere near
due east ; with a southerly breeze just fresh enough
to make an overcoat desirable, though not necessary,

o 2

196 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and with, a cloudless sky overhead, lighting up the
brilliant colours of the rocks, overgrown, where they
formed but an islet, with lichens, and scraped, flattened,
and planed down by prehistoric ice, but covered,
whenever their dimensions were worthy of being
called those of an island, with an abundant supply
of small timber and shrubs. Tall cairns of stones,
painted white to make them conspicuous, marked out
the course, varied in the case of shallows and of
sunken rocks by what reminded one of brooms. Here
and there was seen some fishing hamlet with its natural
harbour, while now and again one felt the ocean swell
through some opening in the barrier of reefs and
islands, as the effect of the late gale. After calling
at the Eussian customs post upon an outlying cluster,
where seals are placed upon the hatches, and passing
within sight of Hango, situated upon a long promon-
tory, we arrived at Helsingfors in the evening, which
is the capital of Finland, with numbers of exceedingly
fine buildings, including a Parliament house, uni-
versity, cathedral, and several theatres and churches,
with very extensive fortifications.

His Excellency the Danish Minister to Eussia, who
was on board, disembarked to go on by rail to Peters-
burg, reminding me at parting that if the salmon re-
fused the artificial fly in the rivers which flow into the
Gulf of Bothnia, they were sometimes taken with it in
the Yuoksa Eiver, which enters Lake Ladoga at Kex-
holm, not far from St. Petersburg, and on which some
English residents in the capital have formed a fishing

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 197

club, with a club-house just at the exit of the river
from Lake Saima, the salmon being taken below the
celebrated Imatra cataract afterwards mentioned, and
the larger trout above. In the public gardens at
Helsingfors a military band was playing in a kiosque
opposite a large cafe. Eows of stout countrywomen
were to be seen seated and listening to the music,
while almost every second male seemed to be in
uniform — broad-shouldered peasants, soldiers in long
cloaks, naval and military officers, and students with
white caps. The only daily through train to Uleaborg,
the present terminus northwards since last year, of
the Finnish railway, a two days' journey, left Hel-
singfors at eight in the morning, so we had barely
time to buy a most excellent and detailed map of
Finland, with almost every house, stream, and path
given, and far superior to the Eussian chart, which
we had already seen in London, its title being —
"Jernvags och reskarta ofver Finland; I. J. Inberg."
The line will be completed later on to the Swedish
frontier at Torneo, and will then reach to within a few
miles of the Arctic circle ; at present the difficulty is
the bridging over of two enormous rivers, the li and
the Kemi. The Uleo at Ulu, or Uleaborg, has already
been spanned by a magnificent iron bridge.

One might well imagine oneself in Sweden while
traversing the southern part of the Grand Duchy of
Finland, once one of the possessions of the Swedish
Crown. Swedish is still universally understood and
generally talked, and most of the theatrical repre-

198 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

sentations are given in that language; while the
wooden houses, barns, and hamlets are shaped and
built after the true Swedish type. If the forests
seem to be endless, they are at least beautifully
varied, and by no means merit the term monotonous,
and are without any traces of the forest fires, so far
as I have seen, which have wrought such damage
in America ; growing more sparsely, and rendering
walking so much easier than in Canada, where an
almost superhuman effort is necessary to penetrate
the dense undergrowth, at least in summer. Here
the woods of spruce, pine, and birch are broken into
exquisite glades and open spaces, carpeted with moss
and heather, and generally giving some distant
glimpse of a lake shining in the sun, or some broad
valley fenced off into fields and moderate-sized hold-
ings. Fairly good roads lead in almost every direc-
tion, and regular communication by means of small
steamboats is kept up on all the large lakes. Such is
the Finland of to-day. The people of the north, said
Voltaire, have an especial liking for the wines which
nature has denied to them. That the inhabitants of
Ostermyra find an excellent substitute in the ale and
the viina, or corn brandy, of the country, was evident
at that town, where the train stopped for the night.

Our next attempt at finding a good hotel was at
Uleaborg, where a quiet night's rest seemed hopeful
at first sight at a small inn, the splendid new Socie-
tetshus not being quite ready for the reception of
visitors, and which, in appearance, at any rate, is

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 199

quite equal, curious as it may seem to say so, to
any hotel in Europe.

At our modest inn an acquaintance of the train
turned up who could speak a word or two of English,
making the usual reference to the useful Finnish
or Swedish vocabulary quite unnecessary. It was
now ten o'clock in the evening, and the sun was
still shining brightly when we retired to bed, having
closed a door leading into the next room, where a
deep and evidently serious discussion between three
was being carried on. One is supposed to hear
everything which goes on in a wooden house, even a
person's thoughts. Our friends in the adjoining
room were evidently holding an all-night sitting of
a more wordy and party character than even the
British House of Commons, and their voices mixed
with one's dreams, until at six in the morning nature
rebelled, and we awoke. Judging by the sound,
personal violence might have been expected to ensue
at any moment. The emphatic " Ya ! ya !" or affir-
mative adverb) was followed by as emphatic a nega-
tive, accompanied with heavy blows upon the table
and a torrent of words, sounding all the more con-
clusive because their meaning was unknown.

The end was near at hand, and when we next
awoke to consciousness the sunlight was gleaming
brightly through an open window, while it could
hardly be said to have really set; and a girl was
standing at the bedside with such cream and coffee as
only Swedes and Finlanders know how to make. It

200 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

was past midday before the two-wheel cart from
the posting station was at the door in readiness for
a start northwards on the excellent road which skirts
the coast. There was much to see at Uleaborg, which
must be deferred till our return. The post-boy was
evidently The Fat Boy, who kept nodding until
eventually the reins fell altogether from his nerve-
less grasp, and we had to drive ourselves. The only
fear was of passing the next post station, or kesMe-
vari ; but just as we were about to rouse the sleeping
one he performed that office for himself, and hence-
forth kept very wide-awake till a fresh cart and
pony and another boy took us on past the Yuorittan-
joki, an exceptionally clear river, most of the rest
being porter- coloured from the peat bogs, to the
great lijoki or li Eiver, close to another keskievari,
where we decided to stay the night.

Across the whole breadth of the lijoki, a distance
of about one-fourth of a mile, runs a double line of
Finnish salmon traps, with the exception of an
opening on one side to allow of the passage of boats,
and through which, as we watched, there floated
with the current an enormous raft of timber, about
sixty yards by forty, skilfully steered by long sweeps
at either extremity, and loaded with barrels of tar,
there being barely sufficient room to allow it to pass
through the opening.

Being without a so-called interpreter, who is often
an unspeakable nuisance, one fares but moderately
well with one's phrase book, which rarely gives the

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 201

particular word wished for, and which is not the
dialogue of every-day travel, but partly imaginary.
Finnish being a most discouraging language to
attempt to grasp, we experienced some difficulty
in making it understood that we wished at once to
fish with a rod, and found afterwards that it was
not the farmer we were addressing. He was under-
stood to reply, " How much shall it be ? " The next
morning, however, the real owner made no difficulty
about rowing us for half an hour or more across the
current while we trolled with a small phantom below
the weirs. It was a pure experiment, and we had
not struck upon the right spot, for nothing resulted
except the capture of a sea trout and a small jack.
It was hard rowing against the powerful stream,
while the wind was too chill to make sitting cross-
legged upon the bottom boards of a boat agreeable,
blowing, as it seemed, like a blast from the frozen
wastes of the White Sea.

It was a long day's posting which now had to be
accomplished. Hitherto the road had been admirably
good and almost level throughout, with a hard, sandy
surface, but beyond the lijoki it commenced to become
more hilly and considerably rougher, and, to make
matters worse, the travellers immediately preceding us
had taken all the carts which boasted springs, making
it necessary to endure over more than one stage the
most abominable jolting, and a matter for thankfulness
that everything breakable had been left at Uleaborg.
The character of the conveyances varies at every

202

TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

stage — sometimes a first-rate pony with a heavy or
worn-out Jcarrii or cart, and the next stage the reverse.
The change at the end of each stage is performed with
great celerity, rivalling the putting-to of the Metro-
politan Fire Brigade. One has just time to write one's
name and destination in the dag-boJc, and to pay the
last driver or JcytipoiJca, before finding everything
ready for a fresh start. After a considerable interval,
the Semijoki was crossed in a ferry-boat, being a river
the size of the Thames, or half that of the lijoki —
shallow, rapid, very dark in colour, the banks thickly
inhabited, the houses being like continuous small
villages. The next stage took us to the left bank of
the Great Kemi Eiver, and enormous is the volume of
water which it contains, with numerous inhabitants
upon both sides of it.

The post road continues to Tornea and Haparanda
in Sweden, and also follows the Kemi Eiver from this
point upwards to Eovaniemi, a distance of eighty versts,
or a long day's travel, at which points the stream
bifurcates into the Kemijoki and Ounasjoki. Two
post roads hence lead to Kemijarvi, or the Kemi Lake
upon the former branch and Kittila on the latter,
about eighty miles distant, up to which point salmon
can ascend. The Arctic Circle, or latitude 66° 32' 20",
passes a mile to the north of Eovaniemi. Here the
houses are better built, and the people richer than in
southern Finland. Just at this point, overlooking the
forks of the river, is the hill, Ounasvaara, a few feet
lower than Aavasaksa, to which so many people travel

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 203

about June 22, in order to see the sun at midnight
from the summit; without, however, actually being
within that mystic circle, to which Ounasvaara is
closer and as easy to reach.

With a nipping, eager air of unusual frigidity for
the time of year at Torvinen on the Kemi, as the
station is named, a good fire was found necessary in
the great Eussian stove, and a dish of the usual ex-
cellent Finnish veal formed our dinner. The cold north
wind calmed down during the night, which was a quiet
one. The road up the Kemi was much finer than the
somewhat monotonous drive along the coast, with the
swiftly rushing, immense river on the left-hand side.
But some twenty miles up, the effect of some travellers
ahead of us — who it was hoped would have been
almost at their destination — began to make itself felt,
and at the next keskievari nothing was obtainable
but a springless cart and an animal to match. No
boat could be procured, the river being too rapid at
this point to ascend. Nothing was left but to return
and fish for salmon and sea trout at the ferry, where
a farmer's family installed us in their house, which
contained but two rooms, one of which they reserved
for my use. Their own sleeping-places, a dozen in
all, were made pell-mell upon the floor. Before,
however, going to bed we succeeded in taking with
a phantom minnow in a short time, from the Kemi,
just in front of the house at the main ferry, four
salmon, a sea trout, and a pike, weighing respectively
11 lb., l()i lb., 7 lb., 61 lb., 5 lb., and 4 Ib. There was

204 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

some interest shown as we started, and as the tackle
was handed round for inspection by the river side;
but when, almost immediately, the first fish was
hooked then the interest became excitement, and there
gathered an assemblage, and as we drew shore wards
the excitement became enthusiasm, with shouts of
" Kala, Kala !" as the first lax or lohi, which was the
biggest of the four, was coaxed near the land, lash-
ing the water into foam where it shallowed under the
bank. I thought the most intelligent looking Fin-
lander might be trusted to use the gaff, and so threw
it on shore from the boat, at the same time drawing
in the fish towards him, and an unexpected use he
made of the unhappy instrument. In the hurry of
the moment, and regardless of my shouts of " Ei,
ei ! " (no, no), he appeared to take the gaff for a
hammer, and struck downwards upon the exhausted
salmon with all his might, until the top with the crook
broke off short and flew into the Kemijoki, and the
spare tops in the hollow interior came forth, and were
broken off short in like manner. He next seized the
line with both hands, and attempted to drag the fish
by means of it on to the bank, which he succeeded in
doing, as the hooks were secure. By waiting for the
water to clear the things were recovered, but we
decided to reserve the gaff in future for our own use.
The Kemi is, as I have said, a very rapid river, and
at this particular point the small Akkunnusjoki joins
the main stream, and the force of the water is
broken by an island, and also by one of the many

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 205

salmon weirs or traps, similar to those on the lijoki,
and probably on all the rivers of Finland. These
weirs are formed of a row of stakes planted crosswise,
built in a long line across the current, and having
the interstices filled by smaller piles and sticks to
prevent the passage of the salmon, except through
square holes, in which are placed contrivances resem-
bling lobster pots. From one side are also stretched
nets, to increase the inducement to enter. The priest
at Kemi has a right to a tithe of the salmon caught
in his parish, and the editor of the Ulealorgs Tidning
has informed me that he has this year sold that right
for 12,000 marks, or £480.

Within the shelter of the weir and the island the
current moved but two miles per hour, but was dis-
turbed by every boat crossing or ascending the river.
Bang ! rush goes the reel. Here he is again ; only a
sea trout this time, embarked without going ashore ;
then three more salmon, and, after a long pause, the
pike. The large ferry-boat, with a horse and cart on
board, has grounded on a rock in the best fishing
ground, and scared the remaining fish away. A salmon
fly upon our other rod was totally rejected, though I
am informed that they will take a fly later in the sea-
son, in July and August, in the Uleo and other rivers.

Three hours, and a change of pony and cart, take
us to Tornio, with Herr Hermanson, the assessor of
the district, as our companion. He lives at Maikila
on the Kemi, and, like most people in unfrequented
districts, is pleased to see travellers. The small

206 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Kaakanajoki was crossed near the post station, and
trout flies tried on it ineffectually, probably owing
to its containing pike, but salmon are caught near
the mouth.

At Tornea we were on the Eussian frontier. It
was the beginning of June, and as yet there were no
mosquitoes. Small villages occur in close succession
upon both banks of the Tornea. Across the river is
the Swedish town of Haaparanda, and no less than
four large churches can be seen in different directions.
We found that salmon had not yet commenced to run
in any numbers, but that the river was full of sea
trout, for which the natives had learned to troll with
large-sized "blazers," which they get from Stock-
holm.

"We drove ten miles up to Kokkola, where all the
world was angling with the aforesaid baits for lohen
pojka, or sea trout, and very successful some of the
natives were, carrying large sacks half full of five-
pounders ; the net fishing not having as yet com-
menced. The Tornea is about the same size as the
Kemi, and, at present, a few feet above its usual
level. The Muonio and Tornea, which meet at
Paijala, are both navigable from the interior by row-
boat, with the exception of a few rapids ; but those
near Muonioniska can be safely descended by boat, in
which one can travel thence to the ocean, or, more
strictly speaking, the Gulf of Bothnia, which is
almost a fresh- water lake, so little salt is there in its
waters.

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 207

Good post roads exist for a certain distance upon
both the Swedish and Eussian banks, and up the
latter we drove with a capital pony and cart, through
picturesque hamlets, to where we were to have
middag off sea trout, black bread, and curds with our
friend the District Assessor; after which we caught
endless numbers of grayling from the shore, which
are confined principally to the rapid portions of the
river, as though to escape the pike which exist else-
where ; we were then rowed to and fro by a man who
seemed thoroughly to know his business, as he
doubtless did, and caught a sea trout; the natives'
boats could be seen in every direction as they trolled
for the same species of fish, other persons being
similarly occupied from the banks, and if the water
had not been so much fished, we should doubtless
have caught a larger number.

The atmosphere of northern Finland is indescrib-
ably bright and clear. If there were any mountains
in this intensely flat wooded country, sufficiently
high to be visible, one might discern them from afar.
Eighteen continuous hours of a burning sun, reflected
from a dazzling surface, made one feel like a column
badly papered of a blood-red colour. Cool seemed
the evening air as we drove back at midnight, with
the orb just below the horizon due north ; blowing
upon the inflamed surface, which had been exposed
to its malign influence, like a breath from an ice-
berg; which perhaps was the reason the skjutspojka
dropped the reins and allowed the pony to meander

208 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

at its own will along the track, at a steady five miles
an hour, for the brown face of the boy had also been
burnt a shade and a half darker since the morning.

I now wish to describe the sport and travel we
experienced in the southern portion of the country
nearer to St. Petersburg, which is, in other words, the
south-eastern corner of the Grand Duchy of Finland.
But first we travelled from Uleaborg up the Great
Uleo Eiver, and across the interior of Finland to the
Eussian capital. I will only say in reference to the
Uleo as a salmon river, that excellent angling, both
with fly and bait, can be had upon the upper portion
below the large Uleo lake, provided one is there at
the proper time, which everyone agrees in saying is
August and the first half of September, up to the date
on which the fishing closes, which is the fifteenth.
The railway, which has now been completed to Ulea-
borg, is the most northerly connected railway system
in the world, and it may not be out of place to remark
that English is spoken by almost all the educated
persons at Uleaborg, many of whom are old sea
captains ; there are also plenty of persons who will
gladly act as interpreters for a very modest sum.

The price of an angling permit for the season for
salmon, upon the angling portion of the river, has
hitherto been ten marks, as fixed by a committee of
the peasants themselves, to whom the right belongs.
The first twenty-five miles of the river upwards from
Uleaborg can be done in a small steamer, which leaves
daily from Muhos, where the above-mentioned licence

GREAT RIVERS OF FINLAND. 209

can be had, and which, the long Pyhakoski rapid
causes to be the head of navigation. Of the four
English anglers who had preceded us in former years
no less than three have been earls, and the fourth a
well-known politician. If the records are to be
trusted, the latter obtained the best sport. Travellers
to Finland should avoid arriving there by way of St.
Petersburg, for two reasons: because the pleasantest
and most interesting route is that by way of Copen-
hagen and Stockholm, and the most direct is by sea
from Hull or London to Abo and Helsingfors ; and
also because guns, &c., cannot be taken through
Petersburg without detention or payment, or both.
There is less of such officialism in Finland, which is
at heart a Swedish country.

THE HAEAKA CLUB.

The Vuoksa River — Imatra Falls— The Haraka Fishing Club— Marvellous
Trout Fishing — Weights of various Fish — I capture Two Monsters —
Arrival of the Grand Dukes — Extracts from the Club Journal — Fight
with an Eighteen-and-a-half Pounder — Fight with a Seventeen-pounder
— Two Monsters at Once — I am entertained at Helsingfors — Lake
Paijanne — The Kalkis Fishing and Shooting Club — Fishing in the
Kymmene — Heinola — Fishing at Koskeniska — Tammerfors — Fishing in
the Kumo — Steamers to Finland — Passports — Fiahing License for the
Uleo — Remarks upon Travel and Sport in Finland — Lake Systems of
Finland.

THE Vuoksa Eiver drains that large area of lakes
which comprise the water system of south-eastern
Finland, leaving Lake Saima, and running a short
course into Lake Ladoga, from which the Neva leads
into the Gulf of Finland. Not far from the exit of
the Vuoksa from Lake Saima is the village of Will-
manstrand, connected by rail with St. Petersburg and
with the Finnish main line at Simola. Just at this
point there is treble attraction, the angling portion of
which, namely, the most remarkable trout fishing
imaginable, I will describe last.

The first object is the Saima Canal, by which one
can travel to the lake from Wiborg; the second, the
Imatra Falls, as engrossing and impressive in their
own style as Niagara. The Vuoksa is quite a large
river, but it is here compressed into a narrow chasm
ten yards in width, inclined at a steep angle, and
rushes with overwhelming force into a large circular
pool, raising mountains of water which rise and fall

THE HARAKA CLUB. 211

and change in ever- varying shapes. There is no
spray, and one can stand close at hand and realise
that the struggle between the two opposing current?
is carried on with a display of violence never to be
estimated, from the contemplation of which one can
hardly tear oneself. The last of the three attractions
near Willmanstrand is the wonderful piece of trout
fishing (presuming one has a ticket for the same, to
be secured at St. Petersburg only by private influ-
ence), rented from the peasants by some English
residents in the capital, and styled the Haraka Club.
The part of the river referred to comprises half the
pool where the Vuoksa leaves the lake and two pools
below, with the intervening rapids. The remaining

half of the lake pool is the property of Gen. A off,

who has built a large house and a " fishing box" on
the shore ; not far removed from it stands the Haraka
Club, which enjoys some advantages of situation.
The club, however, of which the General is a member,
have the right of fishing over his half of the pool,
which is some three or four hundred yards in length.
The club was founded about 1875. In 1876 no-
thing remarkable occurred in the way of sport, though
Mr. J. Mitchell* in sixteen days caught 104 trout,
the following being the greatest weights of single fish :
91b., 4ilb., 121b., 51b., ISJlb., and 171b. In 1877,
Mr. J. Murphy, t in forty-eight hours, landed nine
trout, weighing in all 139flb., the largest being

* English Consul-General at St. Petersburg, and brother of the
English Consul-General at Christiania.

t Dentist to His Majesty and the Imperial family.

p 2

212 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

a great lake trout of 21 Ib. Mr. H. landed in
three days eight fish weighing 86jlb., of which the
largest weighed 15 Jib. The total number of great
lake trout, or Salmo ferox, caught in 1877 was 107.
In July, 1878, the following note is found in the
journal: " Messrs. J. and T. M. and Mr. C — i
killed thirty-five lokhi (Salmo ferox) weighing 3311b.
English, the latter fishing one day and a half and the
two former three days. More fish might have been
taken had not anglers had a surfeit of sport. The fore-
going score is unprecedented in the annals of the club."
Total in 1878, 140. Some of the trout are bright
coloured like land-locked salmon, and are called Saima
fish ; others are dark -coloured trout thought to have
come up from the river.

In 1879, on July 4, Messrs. T. G. G. and J. M.
caught trout of the following weights in pounds: 13,
8, 17, 10, 5, 10, 5, 12, and 20 ; and on the following
day of 191b., 171b., lOlb., 121k, 181b., 16jlb., 121b.,
lOlb., lOlb., 81b., 81b., and 71b. The next day three
rods landed trout of lOlb., 171K, 151b., lllb., 81b.,
21 Jibs., ]21b., lllb., lOlb., 81b., 61b., and 81b. ; and
next day T. G. G. and J. M. fish of 201b., lOlb., lOlb.,
131b., 131b., lllb., and 5jlb., and the same day two
other rods of 181b., 121b., lljlb., 181b., 17jlb., 171b.,
121b., 91b., and seventeen smaller ones of 151b., the
weather being " detestable, not a gleam of sunshine
during four days, cold wind, and plenty of rain."
The next day the same two rods landed trout of 161b.,
121K, lOlb., 9Jlb., 9jlb., 81b., 81b.,

THE HARAKA CLUB. 213

21 Jib., 221b., the thirteen-and-a-half pounder being
foul-hooked in the shoulder and giving a long fight.
On the 13th, two rods landed fish of 81b., 141b., 181b.,
20Jlb., 91b., 131b., 141b., 171b., 17jlb., 19lb., and
241b., the last being the largest Salmo ferox up to the
present time. The next day the same two bagged
fish of 151b., 91b., lOlb., 121b., 121b., lllb., lljlb.,
2jlb., 2Jlb., 181b., 181b., lllb., 121b., 121b., 141b.,
211b., 61b., 131b., and 9Jlb. On July 22, Mr. J. Murphy
landed trout of 171b., 171b., 141b., lllb., 7jlb., 7 Jib.,
81b., and 6Jlb., making in all a total weight for the
day of 88Jlb., and the next day 72jlb., and the 25th,
8 4 Jib., the largest trout weighing just 201b. The
total for 1879 was 336 lokhi, or lake trout, weighing
the enormous amount of 2,8951b., all caught fairly
with rod and line, besides smaller innumerable trout
and grayling. With regard to the baits used, the
phantom was often preferred, but the fly was fre-
quently successful, and small baits with a large single
hook or two, made of the skin of a small fish fre-
quenting the lake in shoals.

In 1880, after many good days, we find that A. E.
A., on July 11, caught lokhi of the following weights:
201b., 161b., 141b., 13jlb., 11 Jib. (caught in the
rapid), lllb., lOlb., lOlb., lOlb., lOlb., and 81b. ; and
the same day and place, H. M. A., of 7 Jib., 161b.,
13Jlb., 91b., and four weighing 61b. ; and C. G., of
71b., and two weighing 31b. ; and E. T., of lOlb. and
91b., and three weighing 41b. The total for 1880 was
300 great lake trout averaging almost lolb. apiece,

214 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and ranging from 51b. to 231b. In 1881 the total was
190. In 1882 the total was 124, averaging 10 Jib.
each, and 613 smaller trout, weighing 6971b., and
four grayling, and nineteen other fish, weighing 191b.
In 1883 twenty-seven lokhi were caught, weighing
277ilb.; 268 trout, weighing 3481b. ; twenty gray-
ling of ISflb. ; and one perch of lib. In 1884,
eighty-two lokhi, weighing 10811b., of which 3391b.
were taken in three days ; 420 smaller trout, weigh-
ing 3571b. ; and sixty grayling, weighing 731b. In
1885, forty lokhi, weighing 471 £Lb. ; 587 smaller
trout of 6691b. ; and forty- seven grayling, of 301b.
In 1886 forty-nine lokhi, weighing 5471b. ; 353
smaller trout, weighing 40 lib. ; twenty- two grayling
weighing 171b. ; and twenty other fish, weighing
lOlb.

The falling off of the fishing since 1876 was due
to Gen. A. building his house close alongside the
pool, blasting rocks, and towing beams. Once again
it seems to be recovering its former quality.

It was under the auspices of Mr. Murphy, who has
perhaps caught more of these leviathan trout than
any one else, and who was one of the founders of the
club, that we arrived at Haraka in a small steamer
from "Willmanstrand, or, more strictly speaking, at
Vuoksenniska, one evening to try our luck in this
wonderful fishing-place, so wisely secured to them-
selves by the Englishmen and Scotchmen of St. Peters-
burg, including our august ambassador. Mr. Murphy
had already arrived the evening before, and had soon

THE HAHAKA CLUB. 215

caught two monstrous trout, which were brought out
from the ice-house for my inspection, where almost
any number of the large trout can be kept for a long
time in readiness for the members to take back with them
to the capital. They can also be kept alive in a large
enclosure, or sort of aquarium, at the landing-place.

The upper part of the lake pool is deep, with a slow
current from the great lake, and the lower part shal-
lower, where the water gathers accelerated speed as
one approaches the rapids proper. Here we were soon
fast in two enormous trout in rapid succession, both
of which broke away with bait and all after a short
connection, owing to our using too stiff a rod and too
fine a single gut trace. The last fish showed his fine
proportions by a succession of leaps above the surface,
and was estimated by the Finnish boatman at 121b.

In the evening, provided with a different rod, we
landed two Salmo ferox of 181b. and 141b. respectively,
after a Homeric battle of the most exciting nature.
The boatman estimated the weights of both correctly,
on sight, to within a pound, so we felt confident that
his estimate of the lost one was also not far wrong.
Mr. M. was equally fortunate, his two trout, however,
scaling a trifle less. Nor was the Finn less excited
than were we, his hand shaking to a most astonishing
extent when he lighted the soothing pipe after gaffing
both fish in a most dexterous manner, which showed
long experience, for he was one of the peasant owners
of the water from whom the club has leased the sole
right of angling.

216 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

It should be stated that, at the same time General
A., who is a most agreeable and accomplished Bussian,
had three boats out, making five boats in all on the
small area of water composing this one pool, which
were constantly passing and repassing one another,
the baits being at times below or beyond the neigh-
bouring boat, which might be crossing the current
immediately below.

The three other boats, however, were not so fortu-
nate. The next day we thought it right to leave, as
the Grand Dukes Nicholas and Vladimir of Eussia
were coming on the day following to stay with Gen. A.
for three days, to try their luck with these great trout
of Finland, as they had never before enjoyed anything
of the kind, in order to allow them a fair chance.

The following extracts are taken indiscriminately
from the early journals of the Haraka Fishing Club :

Sept. 29, 1876. This records the breaking of the
bad spell under which my fishing this bout has unfor-
tunately laboured, while it also casts a roseate hue
over this autumnal leaf. At 4 A.M. on this particular
Friday I issued forth with Johann Haraka, full of
faith and hope, and, after a not reluctant wakening,
armed with a Totness minnow, from which I had
carefully removed the paint. On the first turn from
" grayling point " I suddenly experienced the delight-
ful sensation of a big tug, my rod slipping a little
through my hand. In a moment I struck upwards
from the butt and wrist, and then came the whirring
of the reel, which, as every angler knows, is the true

THE HARAKA CLUB. 217

music of the waters. The boat was worked gently
down in a semicircle to the quiet bay on the other
side, while the fish as steadily followed, keeping
below in the deep and making several very violent
rushes. It was still dark, so that when I landed a
little below " grayling point " I could not see the
inclination of the line nor estimate the distance of the
fish from the shore. Suddenly, however, he appeared
on the surface some fifteen yards away, and, with a
swish of the tail, turned his prow down and cut the
water with a vigorous effort to escape. He had line
enough for any purpose but that, of which he soon
appeared to be convinced, and, resigning himself to
his fate, came back heavily and moodily to the gaff.
The gloom was still so great that Johann was obliged
to bend down and peer over the surface of the smooth
water to perceive his prey, which showing at last his
great dorsal fin and tail and bulky form near the
pebbly beach, received the coup de grace at the
hand of the gillie, who, unable to raise him altogether,
forcibly dragged and deposited the noble fish in safety.
He was well hooked in the tongue, extremely broad
in the beam, and of that dark mahogany colour, with
great black spots, which betokens one of the two
species of trout which obtain in Saima Lake. He
seemed spent and was rather thin in body, but five
hours after capture he weighed 18^1b. His form is
artistically delineated on the balcony floor next to
Mr. M.'s 16 and 14-pounders.

Making another turn lower down, I had the good

218 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

fortune to seize another lovely Saima trout, of silvery
hue and 31b. weight, from the semi-still water just
above the drop of the rapid opposite. This fish
showed great fight, and so long and so strong were his
runs that Johann cried out excitedly. This fish took
out a great deal of line, and came to the same spot to
be gaffed, game to the last. My astonishment and
Johann' s were great when on gaffing him it was
observed that his size was so different to what we had
imagined. Mr. M. caught all his fish with a perfectly
white Totness, whereas I have used a coloured or dis-
coloured one.

This evening Mr. C. and myself sallied forth at
5.30 P.M., as it was getting dark, to try the Haraka
water. Mr. C. had delayed somewhat on account of
Paulo Haraka' s extreme obstinacy. The man insisted
on going out with C., and C. still more strongly
insisted to the contrary. The result was that C. put
out in a boat with Anti, Paulo at first prohibiting the
use of his boat, and then demanding roba for it.
He then pursued C. on the water, following him and
crossing his line twice, when my man Johann remon-
strated with him. While I was shouting across the
water to C. my reel sang out, and I landed one of those
31b. silver Saima trout which give as much play as a
ferox. Soon we glided across once more for the last
utkerta, and came to the bay just above the boats, and
just as the turn of the boat was bringing my minnow
round with a swing it was seized and engulfed in the
voracious maw of what Johann suggested was a pike ;

THE HARAKA CLUB. 219

but I said, " No, Johann, thou errest ; for a lohi lias
me, or rather I have a lohi ; for lo ! does not the
supple rod bend like the willow in the gale, and my
line run out as fast as I can pay it to the monster
which is pulling at it ? " Johann, piercing the dark-
ness with his eyes, noted the appearance of the rod,
and heard the crink, crink of the reel, and uttered an
excited " Ja, ja, un lohi ! " and worked the boat to
shore, where the fish came heavily in after several
severe tugs and splashes betokening large dimensions,
and then bored under the boat, into which Johann
dexterously pitchforked him. As we had guessed, he
bore down the scale to exactly 171b., a splendid male
mahogany ferox.

July 14. Went out and picked up four fish — 151b.,
13|lb., 141b., and lOflb. — lost one large one, which
was fairly on his side, by the man laying hold of the
line to gaff him. I did not swear once, but the man
did; he was thoroughly ashamed of himself. Next
morning a fish of llflb., and one of 16^1b., and, soon
after, one of 9^1b., then one of 2 lib., then one of 91b.,
which last was the gamest I ever killed, and full of
fight. Next followed fish of 9£lb., 161b., 91b., 71b.,
and 151b. — a very fair bag; gross weight 161 fib. in
all, of which the greater part were killed in the forty-
eight hours.

July 17. Up early and did nothing. "Weather
unfavourable; thunder growling in the distance. The
evening turned out fine at last. Mr. C. opened the
ball with a 13^1b. trout; then Capt. H. and Mr. W.

220 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

walked into two fish each. I only got one 5^-poun-
der ; I suppose my luck was worn out. It was great
fun to see three or four fish being played at the same
time ; the fun promised to become fast and furious. It
was all over in half an hour ; I remained until 2 A.M.,
but not a touch.

Yesterday morning had an exciting scene about
nine o'clock. Hooked a big fish above the house ; he
headed for the rapids ; no stopping him. The head-
strong brute went floundering down. The row he
made brought out the whole household like a swarm
of bees. Had on a Totness on single gut, and the line
got under the branches of a fallen tree, when Mr. H.,
who is full of pluck and good nature, stripped in a
jiffey and jumped in, holding on with one hand, and,
with an axe in the other, lopped off the oifending
branches. In spite of the force of the current, the
fish was getting spent, when crack went the line about
eighty yards from the bait. Mr. C. very kindly put
me on my legs again by lending me a new hundred-
yards line.

July 27. Got here on the 15th of July, and a jolly
time we had of it. A reference to the register will
show that our sport for the first week was quite un-
precedented ; up to the present moment I have killed
twenty-seven lokhi and numberless trout. Last night,
at 10 P.M., I killed a monster of 221b. He was three
inches shorter than my brother's Salmo spurio of 2 lib.,
and he measured 22^ inches round about the dor-
sal fin. At first I thought I had got hold of a stone ;

THE HAKAKA CLUB. 221

but he soon showed play, and gave me a good deal of
trouble for nearly half an hour. My brother and I
could have killed a good many more lokhi ; but as we
had thirty -five of them at one time in the cellar, we
desisted. The fishing at Sitola and the Kuldan water
was likewise very good. I think it very evident that
the fish have increased in number since the water has
been preserved. I think that the dark trout which
we catch with black spots — none red, and with similar
spots on the dorsal fin — is the Salmo spurio. Hence
my brother has, in my opinion, mistaken them for
salmon.

April 13. Arrived here at 3 P.M. with A. in a
sledge, with excellent roads all the way except a small
part of the first stage. Found our drawing-room two
feet deep in chips and shavings, which we proceeded
to clear away, and had fires made up and things put
shipshape in no time. The house was certainly fright-
fully cold, with snow all round many feet deep. Before
proceeding to fish we had to dig the boats out of the
snow, oars likewise; but, notwithstanding the frost,
the fish took well enough the first day, the wind being
south, right up the falls. I had not been out very
long before a lohi of 131b. took my bait, and immedi-
ately after one of 71b. (a* Saima trout).

Aug. 15. This day I have caught nothing — that
is, no leviathans, having only got about one dozen
smallish fish with the fly, and even these have not
been rising well. Wind up stream, showers in the
morning, and fine for the rest of the day. The cry is

222 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

still, "M suiet kala" with the variation, " Ei ole
Jcala, pallio paiva," and a conversation is carried on
which neither party understands, which reminds one
of the story of the meaning of metaphysics, when "twa
men palaverin thegither could nae onderstand ane
anither ; " or what the stockbroker was informed — that
"rods was up, but fish hasn't riz."

Monday, July 26. A. G. took nine trout in the
pool between 6 and 8 A.M., largest 31b. I began
operations at 10 A.M., and by 12.30 had landed and
lodged in the aquarium in prime condition, three lohi,
of 131b., lllb., and 91b. At 4 P.M. began operations
at the Bodisco Falls. The rod I held in my hand was
almost immediately tugged at by a trout of at least
121b., which I began to play — i.e. to prevent him
rushing down the falls. I had scarcely had him on
five minutes before the reel of my second rod an-
nounced the presence of another lohi and a much big-
ger one than the first. The distance was great, the
boat was almost at the edge of the fall, and Junka
insisted on going down the latter. It was as much as
I could do to prevent the sturdy Finn from, carrying
out his intentions. With a rod in each hand, and a
big lohi at the end of each, my condition was indeed
almost helpless. The crisis soon came. First the
lesser trout broke the traces of my line, and said adieu
with a graceful flourish of his tail, and then the
second betook himself to the innermost recesses of a
pile of rocks just in front of the falls; and, after
allowing me to suppose he was still there (Junka said

THE HARAKA CLUB. 223

he weighed 201b.), I had the mortification of discover-
ing that I was only playing the rocks above referred to.
I rescued my line and my minnows intact, and the only
trace of the conflict was the presence of tufts of stone
moss on my traces and line. This ended my fishing this
day, much to Junka's disgust, who cannot understand
why I should have preferred sacrificing two lohi to
endangering our lives by shooting the Bodisco Falls.

It would be interesting to know when and where such
remarkable trout-fishing has been excelled or equalled.

We left Helsingfors, the chief city of Finland, in
July, on our last fishing tour, intending to embrace
the south-west corner of the Grand Duchy. We
found that an article which we had written on angling
in Finland had been translated from the English and
re-published in some of the Finnish newspapers, hav-
ing given, apparently, a good deal of satisfaction to
the Finlanders, though we had endeavoured to be as
impartial as possible. We were entertained, in conse-
quence, before leaving Helsingfors, at a banquet in the
pretty Erunns Park, by Mr. Sundman, whose admir-
able " Fishes of Finland," painted and lithographed
by himself, can be seen in London — among other
places at the Fly-Fishers' Club. He is now engaged
upon the birds and eggs of Finland, with the latter of
which two subjects he finds more difficulty than with
the fishes to obtain the delicate variations of tint. Some
of the fish from which he made his drawings he caught
himself, but generally kept several persons employed

224 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

bringing fresh specimens of the particular species he
happened to be engaged upon.

Lahtis, or more properly "Wesijarva Station, four
hours from Helsingfors by train, was reached about
midnight. This line is continued to Uleaborg, and is
the most northerly railway system in the world. It is
intended to prolong the line round the head of the Gulf
of Bothnia and across Swedish Lapland to the Norwe-
gian coast, at a point opposite to the Lofoten Islands ;
and with this idea the line has already been thrown
across the Uleo Eiver by an immense iron bridge.
Lahtis lies at the southern extremity of the great
Paijanne Lake, the longest lake in Finland, and if
memory serves, the largest ; or, more strictly, it lies
near the end of the lake connected with it by a canal.

A small steamer, or rather two steamers, started at
two (and four) in the morning for Jyvaskyla ; a twelve-
hour trip amongst the most picturesque rocky islands,
rather higher than we had hitherto been accustomed
to see in Finland, the flattest and at the same
time the greatest lake country in the world. At
Jyvaskyla, the great lake trout, up to 251bs. in weight,
used to be caught with rod and line and also netted,
but since the last few years, on the establishment of a
paper-mill, these fish have deserted this end of the
lake ; at Haapakoski, however, near by, where a tim-
ber merchant has some extensive buildings, and who
speaks English, a few Salmoferox are taken. We were
informed that they were being constantly angled for
by the natives, and, in consequence, did not go there,

THE HARAKA CLUB. ' 225

though a steam launch runs twice daily from Jyvas-
kyla. An expedition in search of fresh angling
grounds, or rather waters, which we were strongly
advised to take by Herr Hintze, who edits a small
sporting monthly journal called Bporten at Helsingfors,
consists in posting from Jyvaskyla to Sumiainen, forty
miles north; thence by steamer across to Viitasaari
(four hours) and onwards west across a lake to the
neighbourhood of Huopana. Instead of this we re-
turned half-way down the Paijanne Lake to Kalkis,
where some native sportsmen of Helsingfors have a
" Fishing and Shooting Club" (the latter part, how-
ever, of the title being ornamental) as if in imitation of
the preserved water on the Yuoksa Eiver belonging to
the club of English and Scotch anglers of St. Peters-
burg, and where there exist the most noteworthy
facilities for catching the great lake trout (Salmoferox)
with the wonderful record of past sport previously
described.

At Kalkis the Kymmene Eiver flows from the
Paijanne into some small lakes to the eastward and
forms some rapids half a mile in length.

We were provided with an invitation from the
Kalkis Club through its president, who possesses a
Sport Magazin, or shop for sporting appliances, in
Helsingfors, looked after by an Englishman.

Two members of the club also arrived at the same
time, and we commenced fishing the same evening.
The peasants are paid altogether only £12 a year for
the exclusive right of trout fishing on the above -

Q

226 • TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

mentioned portion of rapid, but 1,000 marks (£40)
yearly is paid to a bailiff who is intended to prevent
poaching. Two regular boatmen are also kept. A
large room is fitted up with a row of iron bedsteads,
and the walls support numerous rod-racks and devices
for drying the fishing lines after returning. Our
meals were brought in by the bailiff and his wife,
who both entered the room together, one behind the
other, in the most impressive and imposing manner,
bearing the smoking dishes of potatoes, trout, or
canned deer meat, both being exceedingly plain, stout
and short Finlanders.

Wild strawberries were to be had in profusion, and
by sending to the landing-place, where children
usually brought baskets of this delicious fruit for sale
on the arrival of the steamer, we managed 'to get plenty.

The two sportsmen from Helsingfors spoke Swedish,
like most educated people in Finland, and were ex-
ceedingly kind and polite, not understanding English ;
and as we do not speak the former language so well
as we would desire to do, the conversation, though
most voluble and long-sustained, was not understood
thoroughly on either side. They fished in a most
skilful manner, using the best English tackle. They
preferred fishing mostly in the rapids, and landed
some thirty fair-sized trout that evening, which were
deposited in a tank to live till they returned to
Helsingfors. We were less exacting on our boatman,
and remembering that the great trout (two of which
we had lately caught of 181bs. and 141bs. each) in the

THE HARAKA CLUB. • 227

Yuoksa are taken just where the river leaves the
Saima Lake, we fished in the same way as before.
Three exceedingly large pike (or possibly the same
fish) made off with three of our baits in succession,
the first time through too rough handling, and on the
next two occasions by its having apparently swallowed
the entire apparatus and brought its teeth in contact
with the gimp.

The next day it blew a whole gale of wind, to such
an extent as to make fishing impossible, raising the
most formidable waves, and having, as we heard,
broken up some timber rafts and set thousands of logs
adrift upon the Lake Paijanne, half the river be-
coming discoloured with mud from the washing of the
water on the shores. In the evening it moderated
and allowed us to add some sixty trout to the stue,
mostly got with small Blue Phantom, which is the
best bait for Finland, as it most resembles the small
fish which are so numerous in the lakes and form the
chief food of the trout, pike and other fish, called
salaJcJca ; and a large sik, or gwynniad, of 31bs. taken
on a large spoonbait.

These rapids, like those of most navigable rivers in
Finland, are bounded on one side by stone walls, to
enable the boatmen to drag their boats against the
stream, as on a kind of tow-path. Small steamers pass
the Kalkis rapids by means of a short canal, and by
this we descended the river to Heinola, of which we
had heard the most encouraging accounts in the way
of sport from one who knew the country as it was

Q 2

228 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

some years ago, though we omitted to ask him that
most critical and important question, namely, whether
he had himself visited the place.

There is a sensible current at Heinola, where the
lakes once more contract, though it hardly amounts to
a rapid. However, where there exists a stream there
one may expect Salmo ferox, provided they frequent
the lakes from which it issues. But at Heinola the
advent of steam launches and increased traffic have
caused the fishing to deteriorate, coupled with the
important fact that fishing at Heinola seems to be the
chief amusement of the small population, who are
continually and for ever trailing baits to and fro for
pike, for rarely is a large trout caught now, and as
the boatman and every one else remarked, the fishing
was not worth troubling about. It was a fine evening
and almost every boat in the place was in use ; those
that were not occupied by a family party (who were
sure to be dragging a bait behind for pike) were
engaged in perch fishing. We rarely saw in Finland
such a large percentage of anglers, which is saying a
great deal, for rods and lines are common property.

At last a small perch gallantly sacrificed itself for
the reputation of the place and took our minnow,
though it must be allowed that our boatman was
hardly sober, and when we indicated by a wave of the
hand the course he was to take, would generally row
hard in the contrary direction and foul' the line upon
the bottom. It was a pleasant evening, and every one
who had nothing better to do was on his way to catch

THE HARAKA CLUB. 229

perch with worms. "We came suddenly upon the local
watchmaker round a corner, and thought he was bury-
ing stolen property ; but no, he was merely gathering
bait, and any human being seen in the distance was sure
to be stepping riverwards with a rod. Down the river
we proceeded again, in a steam launch, at five next
morning, eight miles, to Koskeniska, where a rapid, as
the name implies, prevents further progress by steam.

Koskeniska, with its couple of flour mills, and few
straggling log hamlets, looked as if it would surely
not be suffering so much from over-fishing as Heinola.
Nor was it — yet we caught no Salmo ferox, but the
Kymmene offers no such wonderful angling for great
lake trout as does Lake Saima. Two pike were caught
in the half hour we tried, after which, with lake trout
flies, fifty-five trout, up to one pound each, were taken
at the edge of the rapids, to the admiration of the
natives.

After a Eussian vapour bath — for it was Saturday
night, or the Finnish bath night — we stood once more
near the platform of one of the mills. The miller and
his man had also been trolling for Salmo ferox, but
without success, and the former was like the miller of
the Dee, who cared for no one, for he came and " plied
his angle " immediately in front of us, though to be
sure it was his own mill, and he raised his hat as
though in apology for scaring away the trout we might
otherwise have captured.

From this point the river can be descended in a day
to littis, shooting five rapids, one only not being pass-

230 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

able at the centre of the stream, the boat having to be
poled down near the edge.

The distance from Lake Paijanne to the sea by the
river Kymmene is 155 versts (one verst being about a
thousand yards) with a drop of 247 feet. There is one
waterfall only, near the sea, at Hogfors, but salmon
can ascend by another branch of the river, to a point
above the railway line, where there are some steep
rapids which prevent their passing. A large amount
of salmon are caught in traps placed along the edge of
the river, especially at Anzala, twenty versts from the
railway, the estate of Prince Menshikov. The angling
for salmon, for which permission would be readily ac-
corded, would be fairly good if the right kind of bait
were used, though we had no time to investigate the
river further, and the only English we met who had
done so had not been successful during their passing
visit beyond taking smaller fish of other kinds.

We next took train to Tammerfors, which is the
Manchester of Finland, owing to there being five large
manufactories of different kinds ; one large cotton-mill
employing four English overseers, and a flax-mill em-
ploying one Englishman. The only one we saw and
spoke to knew absolutely nothing of the country round,
not even the name of the river whose water-power sup-
plies the means, in summer, of working these mills,
though he had been here for six years. But perhaps
it only implied that his attention had been so centred
upon his business that he had found none to waste
upon any external objects.

THE HARAKA CLUB. 231

The immense water-power, which is formed by the
Kumo Eiver flowing from Lake Nasijarvi to Lake
Pyhajarvi, generally runs low in winter, and steam
has to be used. But meanwhile it was flowing in
full force. A few miles distant the Kumo Eiver, or
Kokemaenjoki, issues from the Pyhajarvi and is one of
the best salmon rivers in the country. The best part
of the river is the lower portion, near Biorneborg, or
Pori, in Finnish, but the salmon can ascend past
Tammerfors to the very head- waters of the stream.
"We made a rapid visit with a horse and cart from the
keskievari) or post station, along an excellent road to
Nokia (thirteen versts), where a certain Mr. Brahkel
owns part of the fishing rights, and where the river
proper first commences.

It was nearly midnight when we drove up to the
door of the pretty villa built upon the hillside, and
found that the gentleman was in bed. However, he
was not long in rehabilitating, and then rowed the
boat himself, while we fished in those portions of the
river which we conceived to be the best, and in those
places where he himself generally caught most salmon
and salmon trout. Six had been taken the day before,
but two fish would be considered a fair day whenever
it was thought worth while to angle. The larger fish
of 301bs., or thereabouts, are not found to ascend the
Kumo beyond the lower lakes, 61bs. or Tibs, being
the average weight at this point. It has been decreed
that salmon under a certain size be returned to the
water. It is not to be supposed that the peasants

232 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

carry out this rule. Our bait had not been long in
the water before it was seized by a good fish, and we
soon landed an id (whatever species that may be), as
we were told, though it resembled a siJc or gwynniad.
This was our last attempt in Finland at angling, which
I did not feel it proper under the circumstances to
prolong, as the proprietor himself was wielding the
oars and it was already the early hours of the morning.
The same afternoon I arrived at Abo on my way back
to Sweden.

On the whole, though so seldom visited by foreign-
ers, I had found Finland an exceedingly pleasant
country for the tourist. The mosquitoes are almost
entirely confined to the northern portions of the
country. As regards travelling, small swift steamers
are numerous both in the interior and on the coast.
One can reach Petersburg for six guineas from Eng-
land by sea, or for about eight or nine if one goes by
Sweden.

A steamer leaves Mill wall Docks every Friday, and
Hull every Saturday, for Gothenburg. Steamers
leave Stockholm for Abo and Helsingfors on Monday,
Thursday, and Saturday, and for Helsingfors and St.
Petersburg Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, the
way being entirely sheltered by the numerous small
islands in the gulfs of Bothnia and Finland. Finland
is essentially a Swedish country, and the arrival at
Abo or at Helsingfors is attended by none of those
inconveniences and annoyances which one meets with
in the Eussian capital. Guns can be taken into Fin-

THE HARAKA CLUB. 233

land without detention or payment ; but had better
be left in Finland to await one's return if a visit to
St. Petersburg is contemplated, but there is no very
large amount of small game discoverable. Passports
must be given up at the steamboat office in Sweden
when booking, and are asked for again at the hotels in
Eussia. From what we heard about Eussia before
starting we thought of procuring parchment docu-
ments, if cast iron was not available, which would
resist the anticipated handling by officials, and might
with impunity be stamped, pricked, punched, dog's-
eared, pulled, signed, rumpled, and examined. Dur-
ing a tour of two months, however, through the
Grand Duchy, this essential paper was not called for
more than three times, including arrival and depar-
ture ; nor was any objection made to the gun.

Finland has a tourist club, and the agent at
Uleaborg writes to us as follows : —

" I am very glad to hear that you had good sport.
Here has been since you left an Englishman of the
name Smith ; he vas an angler of the very best ; he
did get a good deal of pike (gddda) and harr (grayling],
as much as 30 or 40 in a schort times ; it vas a pity
that he did not have his salmon rod vith him. He
said that he had heard that salmon angling vas not
tolerated, and it vas true ; you recollect what trouble
we had to get you a license. Now, it is different.
I vas at the meeting of the schareholders of the salmon
fischery in the river Uleo, the 2nd July, at 11 A.M.,
and there I did my best to get a dicession about the

234 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

angling of salmon. The following is the result of
my exertions : — License to angle for salmon in any
place in the river 100 marks. Item below the 1st
cat sch 20 m., the salmon to be returned to the fisher -
mens ; but above the raati, or 1st catch, the fish is
the property of the angler, except those salmon that
are 1,500ft. below the 2nd, or Muhus cotsh. My
reason to prapose the license that high vas, that if
10 or 20 marks vas the prise for angling, anybody,
both Bill and Joe, schould begin to angle for salmon
and spoil the game altogether ; vas I not right in my
opinion ?

" I have been offered £10 for Lalli, but I kan not
part vith it for any money. The dog is descendant of
dog and wolf (canis domesticus and lupus)"

The length of the Uleo from lake to sea is 101
kilometres, and its total length 30 Swedish miles (180
miles). From 1871 to 1875 the average catch of
salmon annually was 19,3001b. In 1877 and 1878
the catch was 65,1001b.

Pretty and generally fairly good roads are found
between all the towns, while those near the coast are
usually the smoothest and best engineered, and
would be very good for bicycles, though not for
tricycles. The cost of posting is sixteen penni (ten
penni being equal to one English penny) per verst, a
verst being roughly a thousand yards. Posting sta-
tions are found everywhere, and there is never any
delay as in Scandinavia ; but one sometimes has to
travel for a stage in a cart without springs, but this

THE HARAZA CLUB. 235

only occurs in the most out-of-the-way places. The
posting being cheap, it will not increase the expense
much to pay the drivers well, and 50 penni (5d.) per
stage will be thought very handsome.

On arrival at a station, after an average stage of 13
versts, the tourist enters his name in the dag-boJc, and
immediately finds that everything is ready for a fresh
start. The stations are clean and beds always pro-
curable, with eggs, rye bread, milk, and cream in
abundance. The corn brandy and beer of the country
are found everywhere and considered good.

When I state that Finnish waters swarm (through-
out the length and breadth of the Grand Duchy) with
pike, it will be understood that trout-fishing is only
obtainable in places ; but those places are particularly
good ones for trout. Nothing in the shape of camp-
ing appliances is needful, as houses exist everywhere
without exception where the most enterprising angler
is likely to find his way, excepting in the extreme
North, where the mosquitoes are as conspicuous by
their presence as they are in the remaining and
greater portion of Finland by their absence. This
absence of the culex is a boon which can only be
appreciated by experiencing the opposite. More espe-
cially is to be recommended the steamboat service on
the marvellous chains of inland lakes.

The ramifications of the different watersheds in
such a flat country as Finland, and a country at the
same time with so many small undulations on its
surface, are somewhat confusing, and even the

236 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

largest maps (that of Inberg, Helsingfors, being good,
but a larger one exists) present such a mass of lakes
that to pick out courses of rivers is like translating a
cypher. The lake system of Central Finland drains
through Lake Paijanne, the longest lake in the Grand
Duchy, by means of the Kymmene Eiver, into the Gulf
of Finland ; the northern and western portions, by
means of innumerable rivers, into the Gulf of Both-
nia, including the Uleo running out of the large
lake of that name, and the Kumo flowing from the
Nasi and Pyha lakes near Tammerfors; lastly, the
eastern portion, or Saima lake system, is drained by
the Vuoksa into Lake Ladoga.

The railway extends from St. Petersburg up to
Uleaborg, lying in lat. 65° N., the most northern
line in the world (not counting as railway communi-
cation a portion of line built for mining purposes near
the Luleo), and has branch lines to the following
towns on the way north : — Willmanstrand, with
steamboat connections all over E. Finland; Wesijarvi,
with steamboat connections over central Finland ;
Helsingfors the capital, Hango, Abo, "Wasa, and
Gamla Karleby.

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTEE.

My Intended Journey to Thibet — Passports requisite — Peshawar — Hawking
— The Lesser Bustard — Murree — Crossing the Jhelum into Kashmir —
Ghari— The New Road— Hunting at Oorie— Voyage to Surinaggar in
a Dunga—The Inhabitants— I start for the Sinde Valley— Following
Kashmir Red-Deer in deep Snow — I kill a Stag.

ON the 12th day of January, 1888, I quitted the gate
of India, as Peshawar is styled by the resident officials
there, and returned by the wearisomely slow train
called the mail to Eawal Pindi, with the intention of
spending at least six months in the regions of Kash-
gar, Yarkand, the range of the Thian Shan Mountains,
and the habitat of oves Polii, which great hunting-
ground no English sportsman has had the opportunity
or the courage up to the present time to visit for
sporting purposes, in quest of Marco Polo's wild sheep,
whose horns sometimes exceed five feet in length,
and of which a specimen may be seen in the British
Museum.* It will be made clear on perusal why I
returned from thence, or, rather, from the Happy
Valley, in a little more than one month from the date
of leaving Pindi. Have you ever experienced the
uncomfortable sensation, the awkward feelings of the
individual who has failed in accomplishing his an-
nounced intention ?

* My friend the Hon. George Curzon, M.P., informs me that I may
make an exception in regard to this statement in the case of Mr. Little-
dale, who lately visited and hunted on or near the Great Pamir, having
obtained permission with very great difficulty. The late General Pre-
jevalsky also shot some of these animals.

238 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

These feelings were destined to be mine.

The lips of the Viceroy had spoken the words
" Good sport to you, and a pleasant journey ; " Lieu-
tenant-Governors and Chief Commissioners had told
their friends that an Englishman had started for the
wilds of Chinese Turkestan to startle the world by
" coming out" in some unexpected place. To cross
the prescribed limits of travel in the direction, for
example, of the great plateau of the Pamir, or, in
other words, to pass beyond the territories of the
Maharajah of Kashmir, requires the special permission
of the English Government and the passport of the
Chinese authorities at Pekin. The acting Foreign
Secretary at Calcutta had replied to me personally
and by letter, that it was undesirable under the
present relations between the Chinese and British
Governments to request such a favour for any one
excepting under very special conditions ; while the
Kashmir Besident had written, very considerately, in
a postscript, " It is hardly necessary to tell you that
you will not be allowed to pass the delimitated fron-
tier ; " the Tibetans too were not likely to accord a
friendly welcome at this time to an armed Englishman,
while at another point on their frontier the military
expedition through Sikkim might appear to be threat-
ening to violate the sanctity of that mysterious city
called Llassa (with its Sanpu, Irrawaddy, and Brahma-
pootra rivers riddle, which is still continuing to be a
matter of conjecture to geographers), and even to annex
Thibet itself. But a wise Government is never averse

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTEK. 239

to avail itself of the services of independent travellers
who are content to pay the greater portion of their
own expenses, and for whose personal safety it need
not hold itself responsible, which is a matter of more
importance.

Even under these discouraging circumstances I
might still have visited the Pamir. Our admirable
Intelligence Department, whose headquarters are at
Simla, had it yet in their power, through the politeness
of the Chinese authorities, to offer me the requisite
passports, as well as one from our ally, the Amir, to
which they were prepared to add the gift of the neces-
sary presents to the native chiefs of the turbulent hill
tribes, if I would make an attempt to examine the
passes from Kashmir over the ranges of the Tsung
Ling and Hindu Koosh, leading, broadly speaking,
towards the basin of the Upper Oxus.

Whether the advance of Eussia from this direction
in particular is to be feared or not, I am not disclosing
any secrets when I say that further information con-
cerning the mountain passes in Chitral, Wakkan, and
from Sar-i-Kol, and of the attitude and disposition of
the inhabitants of these parts towards the Eussians
and towards the English is urgently required, as also
of the region marked Kafristan on most maps, which
was suggested to me by Lord Napier of Magdala
shortly before leaving England, as a country of which
we know almost nothing. Nor is there any attempt
to conceal the fact, that the intended visit of the
Viceroy to Kashmir about this time was in connection

240 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

with the future occupation of Kashmir by British
troops, of the railway which it is intended to build,
and of the road which was being rapidly constructed
from India to the Maharajah's capital.

It appears a strange thing in the eyes of a new-
comer in India what valuable, and at the same time
what worthless, servants are found among the natives.
"No man can exist in a state of constant exasperation.
Yet anger, or an imitation of it, seems to be the most
effectual method of extracting any unusual amount of
work from the latter of these two classes of servants.
But among our civilians in the Imperial service, and
especially among those who have lived long in India,
and hold any responsible position, a self-restraint and
politeness is invariably observed towards their native
servants, quite at variance with the description I have
heard several American globe-trotters give of our
treatment of the natives of India (namely, that, as a
nation, we govern India admirably, but not so as indi-
viduals), because this is a class of Englishmen with
which they are not brought into contact.

These remarks about Indian servants are made with
the object of saying that my servant belonged to the
former of the above classes of retainers; he had re-
mained for nearly three years with the Afghan Boun-
dary Commission, in the service of the now Deputy-
Commissioner of Peshawar, who had kindly lent or
" loaned" him to me, as one would say "out West," and
he had a disposition which was perfectly angelic, and
never quarrelled with other servants — a most important

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 241

merit. He was, moreover, a Pashawari ; lie had been
anxious to bring with, him a man whom he described as a
relation, who was willing to accept six rupees (8s. 6d.)
per month and find his own food, and act as a coolie.
This man, however, who was a heavy, powerful
Afghan, gave me the impression of being a runaway
Pathan or Afridee from some family blood feud ; and,
without any special reason, except that he had given
vent to some expressions of which I could not approve, I
dismissed him on the second day of our march into
Kashmir at the resthouse, or dak bungalow, on the
banks of the Jhelurn atKohala, where the Maharajah's
territory commences. There are more murders, most
of them of the nature of the vendetta of Corsica or
Sardinia, within the districts of Peshawar, than in any
other part of India, and special laws have been in
force for many years. Peshawar is full of men from
the independent tribes beyond our boundaries, who
have fled from the vengeance of their wives' or their
own relatives, for our Arms Act is enforced very
strictly, and here they feel comparatively safe, yet not
daring for years together to sleep near any light, for
fear of getting shot at. In fact one might almost
fancy oneself in the Emerald Isle. Such a man was
this, or such he seemed, and I was glad when after
weeping copiously he at length took his departure for
Peshawar, and only little Kassim Ali Khan remained
with me, and my seven Kashmiri coolies, whom I
engaged, as mentioned below, at Murree, and who
were going to carry my effects upon their backs all the

R

242 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

way into the Happy Valley, eight days of marching ;
for they lived near Baramoola.

Before quitting Peshawar our Deputy-Commis-
sioner, who, as I might remark in passing, is unusually
learned in Persian and the difficult Pushtoo language,
organized a hawking expedition for my benefit after
oobara, or florican (a species of the lesser bustard).
Though not exactly in the direction of the Kyber
Pass, yet the best ground lies somewhat in that direc-
tion ; we drove for miles across the flat cultivated
country which surrounds the city, and which in
spring is one mass of peach blossoms, towards a
portion of the ranges, now clad in winter snow, which
surround the valley of Peshawar. The carriage was
left at one of the frontier guard-posts; then we
mounted our horses, and rode for miles over barren
stony tracts, followed by the sowars and various old
men and turbaned followers, carrying the hawks
hooded, and we fell into various ditches, but never
saw a bustard. "When the oobara is first sighted, one
of the hawks is unhooded, the game is flushed, and
the hawk pursues and darts down upon it from above
and strikes it. The game now probably alights and
defends itself from the hawk, which sweeps down
upon it repeatedly, and eventually grapples with it
and kills it; and if the carrier soon comes up, the
bird is quickly hooded before it injures the game,
and another oobara is looked for. But a considerable
amount of hawking is carried on by the natives round
Peshawar, not only after the noble game we were in

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 243

quest of, but after sand-grouse, partridges, aud even
crows, choughs, and corbies, and no success was our
lot that day.

Eefore leaving Peshawar, I visited, like all other
tourists, the shawl-merchants, where rich embroideries
and stuffs from the looms of Kashmir and Afghanistan
are spread out for one's inspection. I also visited the
native city, and finally was much interested in watch-
ing the Deputy-Commissioner trying a case of wife-
murder committed under the most atrocious circum-
stances, a crime by no means unusual in the district.
Hence I went by rail to Eawal Pindi and reached
Murree, the Summer Hill Station, within a few hours'
drive, perched upon the summit of a wooded hill nearly
8,000 feet above the sea-level, and commanding a
splendid view southwards over the misty plains of
India, flat-looking like the ocean, and with rib-like
ridges of Himalayan foothills running down into them
like the mountains round Ben Lawers descend into
Loch Tay, and also northwards over valleys in which
the Jhelum flows invisible amid snow -clad ranges,
most of them higher than any in Europe. I found
Murree totally deserted except by some of the native?
and one solitary European, who was starting a new
hotel for the summer. Snow lay in patches on the
shady side of the mountain, but the regular fall of
snow, which generally occurs at this time of the year
(January 14), had not yet taken place.

Arrangements were made with the tehsildar, who is
the native official to whom in India one generally

R 2

244 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

applies for coolies, or for camels or baggage-horses,
as the case may be, to provide me with men to act as
porters. This route by Murree and by the valley of
the Jhelum Eiver into Kashmir is the only one avail-
able at this time of the year, and is never closed.
Next day the toilsome height to which we had as-
cended to reach Murree was all undone by a long and
gradual descent of twenty-two miles to the Jhelum,
which here flows partly opaque and exactly the colour
of jade or a greenish blue, between rocky walls which
expand into the bare, lofty sides of the encircling
mountains, partly terraced by cultivation, and dotted
here and there by the almost invisible mud houses of
the inhabitants. From the frost of Murree we seemed
to have returned to the warm plains of India, with its
genial sunshine.

Here I made myself at home in the dak bungalow,
which was exactly like all other dak bungalows, with
its boards of dusty rules hung up " for the observance
by travellers using the bungalow," and its list of
prices to be paid to the khansama, or native in charge,
such as : — Breakfast, with one side dish, one rupee ;
eggs, per dozen, two annas (twopence) ; and its bare
bedstead and bathroom, with hard mud floor. Here
is the village of Kohala, and the narrow iron bridge
for foot-passengers, which I crossed next morning,
following my seven coolies and Kassim Khan, and was
able to boast that I was at last in Kashmir. From this
point a good carriage road follows the left bank of the
river for a distance of about forty miles to Ghari, at so

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 245

uniform a gradient that a railway might be built upon
it as it stands. Hence to Oorie a short break occurs,
after which the road is completed the whole way to
Surinaggar, the capital. It being yet early in the
year, carriages or horses were not procurable, but
from the commencement of the season in April the
facilities offered by the new road will have completely
eclipsed the long and tiresome, if somewhat more wild
and picturesque, paths over the Pir Panjal and other
passes leading into Kashmir from India.

Instead of following the road and the river, both of
which pursue a somewhat circuitous course, and make
a very acute bend at Domel, from west to south-east,
we turned in the afternoon and followed the broad bed
of a mountain torrent, at a place marked Faroora in the
maps of the trigonometrical survey, following the
example of the numberless coolies carrying packs of
merchandise between Surinaggar and Murree, whom
one meets staggering along for a mere pittance under
the most enormous and back-breaking loads of a hun-
dred to a hundred and fifty pounds in weight, bandy-
legged from years of such pack-carrying, and bearing
a wooden instrument, shaped like the letter T, upon
which every few yards they lean the weight of their
load, which they lower by straddling the legs wide
apart, until it rests upon the head of the instrument.
Like most short cuts, the wisdom of taking this one
was open to question, for it was, after all, but a rough
mountain track abounding in steep ascents and dread-
ful declivities.

246 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

When we had reached a spot at a considerable dis-
tance from the high road, the coolies thought it a good
opportunity to lay down their loads and demand a
promise of extra pay and backsheesh, which it became
necessary to put a stop to once and for all in a very
energetic manner, with the assistance of Kassim, and
caused them a vast amount of surprise.

On such occasions as this, I found the benefit of
having a good servant who would back me up in my
dealings with the coolies. It was amazing under such
circumstances to see this little man, by no means
physically strong, and suffering moreover from fever,
deliberately smacking the face of a gigantic muscular
porter who might have crushed him had he dared, to
make him resume his load.

Even with the aid of the short cut it was evidently
impossible to reach Ghari before dark, and camp had
to be pitched high up upon the mountain side, where
a stray cow, none of the bovine race being permitted
to be killed within the Maharajah's dominions, would
inspect the tent somewhat too closely for the safety of
the erection ; and there might be seen the Himalayan
vultures, who were never out of sight, wheeling like
black specks among the crags, while the shouts of the
goat boys might be heard echoing through the still air
of the valley about sundown. The Jhelum is not seen
again by this route, until one arrives nearly vertically
over it as it rolls almost two thousand feet below,
when its course opens out to view valley beyond val-
ley, and nullah beyond nullah, the few trees that exist

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 247

being confined entirely to the slopes facing the north,
and the hills being without snow below an altitude of
five thousand feet. The fine new bungalow at Ghari
is yet incomplete, and the old one exceptionally bad,
excluding neither wind nor water ; and here the chief
engineer, who has contracted for the construction of the
new road, is endeavouring to carry the latter under a
curious ridge which completely blocks up the flat por-
tion of the valley, in a most provoking manner. Just
as we reached this obstacle, after making a start from
Ghari for the fourth day's march, the engiueer him-
self galloped up to superintend the work. A letter
from the Kashmir Eesident brought many kind offers
of hospitality from Atkinson Sahib ; but the annual
snowfall was even now overdue, and we hurried on,
like the hero of the song, " Excelsior." Mahseer are
caught in the Jhelum, but it was too cold at present,
as I was informed, clear though the water was, and
low, making it a simple matter to clamber down and
reach the shelving strand of many a jade-green whirl-
pool. The floor of the Jhelum Yalley is cultivated
wherever sufficiently level to permit of irrigation, and
the river itself has hewn a deep and winding pathway,
through which it rushes, crossable only here and there
by means of a few rope bridges, each one consisting of
three cables, one on either side, and one below to walk
on, connected by a few cross pieces, and exceedingly
dangerous to any one affected in any degree by gid-
diness. Where no such bridge exists, the natives tie
their clothes in a bundle, with the exception of

248 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the loin-cloth, which, the inhabitants of Hindustan
never remove even when bathing, and paddle them-
selves across upon an inflated skin. Through the base
of every branching valley on either side tributary
streams, dry now, but swollen rivers in autumn and
at the melting of the snows, have cut channels so deep
that only when one has to toil up and down their pre-
cipitous sides, can one realise their profundity, and
long, long detours will the new highway have to make
in consequence.

Being winter this was the only road into Kashmir,
and numerous were the native travellers one met, most
of them ready with a respectful salute and " salaam,
sahib" or "salaam, hadji ;" some were with their
women-folk, but most of these latter went by the less-
frequented path, upon the opposite bank, closely veiled,
where long files of the fair creatures could sometimes
be discerned following the winding path along the
hill-side, mounted on ponies, and generally bright
with colour, while the men were always wrapped
in white, or in the dark grey shawls of Kashmir.

The next two days' marches differed but little from
the rest. The travellers' bungalows, or rest-houses,
built by His Highness for travellers, are at an average
distance apart of about twelve miles. In the short
winter days it was not found convenient to make
double marches in one day, but I was made aware of
the fact that only if I remained behind the coolies,
and at a considerable distance from them, did they
travel fast and well. Once or twice I shot a wild

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID- WINTER. 249

rock pigeon, and once a chikor, which resembles the
red-legged partridge ; on another occasion one of the
enormous vultures, which were always discernible
overhead, came sailing past within a few yards, and
was greeted with a discharge of No. 6, at which he
closed his gigantic pinions and sank like a mere
huddled and shapeless mass of brown feathers, down,
down far below into the rocky bed of the Jhelum.
One of the coolies was sent in search, and the wings
taken as trophies ; but unfortunately blown away in a
snowstorm three days later, after having been care-
fully taxidermised.

Six days of marching from Murree brought us to
Oorie, where two young engineers, who had contracted
for a portion of the road, had taken up their quarters
in the dak bungalow, well supplied with cheroots,
Murree beer, and comforts of that description not
generally obtainable. Work was not progressing, for
cold weather appears to paralyze the energies of the
coolies, excepting the dark, long-haired men from
Baltistan, and the ruddy, Mongolian-featured inhabi-
tants of Ladak (both provinces of Kashmir), who
receive higher wages because they do more work than
the others. The skin of a little chamois-like tahr,
dreadfully mutilated by an Express bullet, hung
outside the door, and I yielded to an invitation to stay
and devote the morrow to the chase. The valley at
this point widens out ; timber recesses wind back
into the main ranges, and make it hard to guess
through which valley the Jhelum finds its way ; the

250 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

peaks on the right bank culminate in the Kajnag
(14,445 feet), which great range still harbours a
few — very few — of the gigantic goat (markhor) and
the great red deer of Kashmir (barasingh). It was
late next morning before we started to climb the
mountains. Once we halted while the so-called
shikari or huntsman searched for traces of a bear
supposed to haunt a certain rock. I wore, for the
first time, the far-famed grass shoes of Kashmir, about
which I had heard so much, and put them on over
shooting boots, that they might, if necessary, be dis-
carded, with the result, however, of greatly increasing
the toil of ascending.

Eope made of coarse, strong grass, twisted together,
is procurable everywhere, and can be made up into
sandals by any one — for all the world in Kashmir wears
this species of foot-covering — at a cost of about two
for a farthing ; and digitated socks of wool or leather,
costing two annas (twopence) a pair, are worn with
them. The rough surface of these shoes retains a
wonderful hold on smooth rock faces, frozen and com-
pacted snow, and steep slopes slippery with long dry
grass. But in winter, except on the roads, English
shooting boots are best, for mere socks soon get satu-
rated. For example, a few days later my shikari and
coolies suffered greatly from the snow, two of them
being frost-bitten while I was stalking some barasingh.

Grass shoes made in almost identically the same
manner, and of a similar if not identical species of grass,
are worn universally by Japanese of the peasant class.

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 251

Next day the march to Rampoor was a long one,
as was also the succeeding one to Baramoola, which
was made in falling snow. At the latter place is the
commencement of the Valley of Kashmir, and also of
navigation on this portion of the Jhelum. The tra-
vellers' bungalow is still in ruins, never having been
restored since the earthquake ; so I took refuge from
the storm in the only possible place, short of pitching
camp, the native houses not being inhabitable ;
namely, in one of the floating habitations in which I
was now to continue the journey to Surinaggar, occu-
pying four days. Unnumbered blessings did one
mentally rain down upon the sacred memory of those
early Italian missionaries (curiously the Kashmiris
are named the Neapolitans of the East), who have
the credit of having introduced the Italian scaldino,
here known as a kangri, among the inhabitants of
this place. Never during winter is the true, lazy
inhabitant of this happy valley to be seen, if he is
seated, without this cherished instrument beneath his
clothes, and diffusing from its mysterious place of
concealment its genial warmth. They are also
credited with having caused the Christian symbolic
letters I. H. S. to be struck upon certain of the
current silver coins of this Mohammedan country, one
of which hangs on my chain as I write. The snow
continued to fall for three succeeding days; the
coolies had been paid off and had decamped, and our
progress across the Woolar Lake and the river to
Surinaggar was slow, owing to the strong current,

252 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

partly punting, partly towing, the rather unwieldy
craft.

Kassim Ali Khan followed in a smaller boat behind,
which formed the kitchen ; and at meal-times, which
signified the uncertain periods when I was assailed by
pangs of hunger, and shouted for hazri, tiffin, or Mana,
the two were brought together, and dishes might have
been observed passing from one boat to the other, whilst
a diffused odour of cooking brought an uneasiness
to the kites, hawks, crows, vultures, and even eagles,
whose number was legion. At other times several of
the latter, five in all, were shot with my Express as we
came upon them noiselessly, seated on the snow near
the bank, looking out for some chance morsel or dead
fish carried down by the current, the rest of the
country being shrouded by 2 ft. of snow.

Very attractive in summer time to our officers from
India are these dun gas. Although as a rule they are
exceedingly dirty inside and out, yet they offer a
cheap and convenient moveable habitation in which to
wander among the waterways of this happy valley,
stopping to camp wherever fancy may dictate. A
dung a is a long punt, 30 ft. in length by 6 ft. in width,
completely arched over from end to end by thick rush
matting ; so cold, however, in winter that I had to
pitch a small tent in the interior and live by candle-
light. A portion of this space is divided off and
inhabited by the boatmen, generally speaking two in
number, their wives, and any number of children,
with an exceedingly scanty amount of food, manners,

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 253

or clothing, who assist at a very early age in towing,
punting, or rowing the boat, and are counted as able-
bodied members of the crew in the very modest
payment which the Maharajah's rules require one to
make for the different trips possible in various direc-
tions from Surinaggar.

I found the air warmer at the capital, but decidedly
chilly, and the aspect picturesque, but wintry, for
snow lay upon the overhanging roofs of the wooden
houses. The quarters set apart by His Highness for
married officers and their wives visiting the locality
are the best of the various travellers' bungalows, but
even the others I found to contain two stories, a most
unusual circumstance.

One of the chief shawl merchants appropriated me
even before I had arrived at the city, for he came out
with his boat to meet the dung 'as , and thenceforward
—I only stayed for two days — kept ward and watch
over me that none of his competitors might tempt me
with cheaper wares, for which I was not sorry, as, in
addition to various little attentions which he paid,
such as lending me a bedstead, and treating me to a
breakfast a la Kashmiri, none of his opponents ven-
tured within sight.

The inhabitants, old and young, were mostly dressed
in warm white woollen shawls or clothing. The
river winds sluggishly through the town, spanned by
many wooden bridges, and walled in by tall pictur-
esque houses resembling Swiss chalets. The streets
were decidedly the dirtiest I had ever seen, more so

254 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

than Constantinople, Jerusalem, Teheran, Peshawar
or Canton. Whenever I stopped a throng at once
collected and stared in a timid kind of way as though
I were dangerous. This annoyed me so, that after
finishing a rapid sketch from one of the bridges,
during which interval a large crowd had assembled, I
suddenly gave a spring and a yell which had the
effect of sending them flying in all directions, half of
them sprawling on the ground in their fright.

There existed at the moment no other British
tourist within the Yale of Kashmir. For the purpose
of stalking and procuring a specimen of a stag
barasingh, or Kashmir red deer, I decided the Sind
Valley to be most convenient ; these fine animals
(with horns far larger than Scotch red deer's, and yet
smaller than those of the American species) are appa-
rently becoming more and more scarce each year; this
Sind Yalley, however, as well as several other portions
of the country, by order of the Governor, were being
kept for the Viceroy, who was expected on a visit
here in April, and the inhabitants were forbidden to
fire a shot therein. A purwanah, or order, from His
Excellency the Governor was therefore necessary,
which was soon obtained, especially as I explained
that I should feel satisfied with a single head. I
refrained, however, from inquiring what other game
the Viceroy was expected to hunt than barasinc/h,
since by the month of April the stags would already
have shed their antlers, and no excuse for shooting
them would then exist. A shikari was next engaged,

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 255

of which class there was a wide choice, together with
the two dungas and some camp coolies. The prepara-
tions were soon complete, for they were concluded
after buying a few tins of provisions and a large
supply of rice for the men.

By starting the same evening and travelling all night
by water we reached Lake Manasbal by sunrise, said
to be the prettiest lake in the valley of Kashmir, but
now the surrounding landscape presented nothing to the
sight but a dazzling waste of snow. A few more coolies
were soon collected on landing, and the march com-
menced, which was to take us to the middle portions
of the Sind Valley, where the Chittingool and Wangat
ravines or nullahs were situated, after which I intended
to leave the choice of the exact locality for the final
camp to the shikari. This individual turned out to
be so noisy, unreflecting, and talkative to the coolies
that it was difficult to place one's reliance upon his
judgment, and I decided for myself that Wangat looked
the most promising nullah. It had been in sight from
the Lake Manasbal ; but it was the afternoon of the
next day before we entered its mouth, for the snow
was now over three feet in depth, though we were
generally able to find some track, previously made by
some inhabitant, and leading us in the right direction.
The previous night we had pitched camp at the
hamlet of Woosan, not in immediate propinquity to
the houses, for that is always resented by the inhabi-
tants as though the visitor wished to pry into their
habits and discover all their secret manners and

256 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

customs, when, in reality, he desires nothing of the
kind. The three tents — a large Cabul tent, a ser-
vants' tent, and a tente (Tcibri by Edgington — were put
up under the shelter of a large banyan-like tree, on a
spot which happened to be bare of snow, while on
three sides — north, east, and west — the gigantic peaks,
all snow-white, which surrounded us, showed their
smallest details almost as plainly as at mid-day, under
the radiance of a full moon, each of the scattered
pines and the thicker forest slopes standing out so
blackly against the snow that one could easily
imagine barasingk, ibex, and all the other species of
game moving about beneath them.

The people belonging to one of the farmhouses at
the entrance to the Wangat valley (which is wrongly
marked Kanknai in the map) had lately sighted deer
high up among the snows, and in that direction the
shikari thought it would be best to go. Deeper and
deeper grew the snow, through which there was a
narrow track made by some coolies carrying loads.
Now, the footsteps of a coolie in the snow, or, for that
matter, anywhere, are exceedingly short ones, as we
experienced to our pain in returning along the high
road after heavy snowfalls ; each following coolie steps
precisely in the other's footmarks, which results in a
chain of hard, round, sunken pits just too far asunder
for one to take two in one's stride, and yet so near to
each other that the process of following such a path
day after day and hour after hour is intensely fatigu-
ing, as when a long-legged volunteer has to keep step

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 257

to a band which is playing a march in short, quick
measure ; and yet to overstep these footmarks resulted
invariably in plunging two feet — sometimes more —
into the snow. A deep ravine had to be passed, and
then higher wound the pathway up the mountain-side
until we seemed at length in the very heart of a likely-
looking hunting country, and came, rather to my sur-
prise, upon a house of the usual type, inhabited, as
Kassim stated, by a Pathan. These houses have the
walls frequently partly built of stones and rudely
plastered with mud ; the flat roof consists of beams and
planks covered thickly with earth, and over that a
coating of hard mud, in which a small opening allows
the smoke to escape. All round the snow was over
three feet in depth, and the track we had been follow-
ing led up to the door. I concluded that my own tent
would be pitched upon the roof, which consisted of a
large expanse of brown mud, and the only place free
from snow, and that the men, who at the last village
had all been anxious to sleep in the native houses,
would make themselves warm and comfortable within
the low, but rather large structure. Not so, how-
ever. Warm enough it was within, even to suffoca-
tion, and bitterly cold without. But the Pathan hap-
pened to have a wife with him, and therefore no one
could enter, so the tents were all pitched upon the
roof, while I calculated how many persons would
be injured or what the sensation would be like if
it should give way and precipitate us into the house
below upon the top of the solitary couple within.

258 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Overhead towered the peak called Kotwal (14,271
feet in height), while the slopes which faced north-
wards were forested over with cedar and pines as
densely as can be imagined, the slopes facing the
south being, as I have also observed elsewhere, almost
completely denuded of trees.

In the morning, long before the break of day, the
shikari went along the base of the nullah to search for
tracks of deer, but I have reason to believe that the
old man did not venture far. To me, however, with
his son and two local coolies, were apportioned the
burden and heat, or, more strictly speaking, the bitter
cold of the day — that is, of the night rather, for the
full moon was yet high above the mountain peaks
when we set out to clamber along one of the ridges
which led upwards towards the summit of Kotwal.
At eight o'clock a herd of deer was sighted ahead of
us on the ridge by one of the coolies. For a long time
I was unable to distinguish them, and, when I did,
was surprised to find how small and diminutive they
appeared, owing to the clearness of the atmosphere
and the large size of the cedars under which they were
standing, apparently nibbling a scanty sustenance off
the twigs and branches which were left uncovered by
the snow. So deep was the snow, and so much of the
powdery consistency of flour, that a full hour elapsed
ere we reached the place without exposing ourselves.
The air was as still as death, and not a sound was
heard from all the vast ranges of mountains which lay
around, but occasionally a mass of snow would fall

KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 259

from some branch with a low hiss and a thud. The
animals had winded us with their keen powers of
scent, or had heard us, and the deep -lane they had
made behind them showed them to have left somewhat
hurriedly. The track they had ploughed up led
downwards into the forest on the opposite side of the
ridge to our camp, and caused me to reflect as to how
in the world we were to ascend again through such
deep snow if we once left the ridge, until I remem-
bered it would be possible to make a circuit round
the mountain from below ; so down we plunged along
the deep rut left by the barasingh, and very soon the
same coolie sighted them again. Making signs to the
others to remain motionless, I followed on alone,
partly glissading, partly clambering, and endeavour-
ing to keep a tree between myself and any of the deer
who might be looking in my direction, and at the same
time to prevent the snow from choking the muzzle of
the rifle. To find the antler-bearer required a little
patience, but before long a lucky shot secured my first
(and only) barazingh trophy. Unfortunately, while
this was taking place, both the coolies got frost-bitten,
but not seriously. This fact, combined with other
circumstances, and that the object for which we had
journeyed hither had been accomplished, left no fur-
ther reason for remaining in such a cold and uncom-
fortable encampment, and it was without consciousness
of much regret that I turned my back upon Kannan,
while I even allowed myself to indulge in a yearning
for the warmer plains of English India.

s 2

A SPOETING EXPEDITION INTO BICKANEEE AND
THE BOEDEES OF THE GEEAT DESEET.

The Start — Drawbacks to stalking Antelope in cultivated Plains — Sirsa —
Ludhiana — Faridkot — A Maharajah's Ideas of Sport — Native Villages
— Peacocks — "We put up at G-husaniana — Driving Deer — Game
numerous— Successful Stalks after Antelope.

ASTRIDE upon a grey Arab pony belonging to our
Assistant- Commissioner at Sirsa, I followed my caval-
cade, consisting of a couple of camels and two armed
and mounted horsemen belonging to the tehsil or
tehsildar's office, as we emerged from the Commis-
sioner's compound on Feb. 14, 1888, and wound our
way through the square walled town of Sirsa, with
its straight streets crowded from end to end by gaily
dressed Sikhs, obstructive bullock carts, camels, and
native vendors with their wares spread out upon the
roadway. I was anxious to visit one of those unfre-
quented and favoured districts of India where the
inhabitants had not experienced much contact with
Europeans, and which I was informed abounded with
game of various descriptions, that I might have no
difficulty in securing, in the limited period of time
at my disposal, three or four specimens of antelope
and deer. Excepting in the preserved country of the
Nizam, the Guikwar, and one or two other of our
Indian potentates, it has become a very difficult
matter anywhere in the vicinity of any of the lines of

BIKANEER AND THE GREAT DESERT. 261

railway to find any game at all, or any single black
buck, much less a herd, which will allow a European
to approach within shot, unless he consents to the
most undignified methods of procedure, such as by
imitating the dress and manner of a native agricul-
turist who is pursuing his ordinary avocations in the
fields, or by crouching in a country bullock cart and
dexterously slipping out behind at the proper moment
unperceived by the buck, all of which, being merely
different ways of deceiving the game in an unfair
manner, besides being troublesome to carry out where
game is scarce, fail in giving that sense of genuine
sport experienced by the deer-stalker or the fly-
fisher. For these reasons I was bound for Bika-
neer, which lies within the confines of Bajputana,
generally marked upon the maps as the Great
Indian Desert, which appears as though it should be
the home par excellence of the Indian antelope and
allied species of deer. This sandy, mostly level, and
comparatively dry tract stretches along the left bank
of the Indus as far as the river Sutlej, which is the
easternmost of the five rivers of the Punjab and joins
the first named.

I had selected Sirsa as the starting-point, almost at
haphazard, and yet partly because it was situated
upon the new Ferozepur-Eewari branch of the Eajpu-
tana-Malwa railway, and boasted of a refreshment
room and other conveniences at the station, besides a
bungalow of the C.S. Officer above alluded to, who
was kind enough to assist me. On the other hand, as

262 TEAVEL8 IN THE EIGHTIES.

a considerable number of Europeans connected with
the railway resided in the locality, it was not surpris-
ing to find that game had become exceedingly scarce
in the neighbourhood, though without, of course,
affecting the wide flat region thirty miles to the
south, for which I was bound, and bordering upon
the Great Desert. Of other districts, Ludhiana
offered some attractions in the shape of numerous
official bungalows, which are conveniently situated in
regard to shooting, besides the fact that the populace
were more inclined to regard a sportsman with tole-
rance, or even complaisance, which is not the case in
other native states around — for example, Faridkot,
although I had made the acquaintance a short time
before of the Maharajah of this state, as well as of his
eldest son, who had expressed themselves as anxious
and willing to organize an exhibition of hawking for
my benefit, and would of course have given me every
opportunity in their power for large game shooting.
I was credibly informed, however, that this meant
being continually attended by the Maharajah's people,
whose only idea of antelope shooting would perhaps
have been that of surrounding, and firing, possibly
rather at random, into a herd, without any notion of
stalking them beyond the method previously alluded
to; while the opinions of the fanatical population
with regard to sport would have rendered it unadvis-
able to dispense with the Maharajah's protection.

The country through which we rodo the whole day
was of an intensely level character, half of it con-

BIKANEER AND THE GREAT DESERT. 263

sisting of cultivated fields, divided either by a trench
or by hedges of thorn loosely piled together, forming
a very effective barrier against the herds of goats and
camels which were discernible here and there. The
remainder of the area was composed of lir, or uncul-
tivated land covered closely by patches of loose scrub
of a thorny character, about four feet in height, and
sufficiently dense to conceal the small deer, which
became more and more numerous as we advanced
farther and farther from civilisation and from the
railway0 The different villages were situated at an
average distance apart of about four miles, and the
whereabouts of each village was invariably marked by
a grove of large trees — the only ones in the landscape.
These villages were all of the same character, and a
description of Ghusaniana, where we were compelled
to pass the night, owing to the distance we had
already travelled, will serve as an example of the
remainder. After hunting the following day, at a
distance of about ten miles beyond Ghusaniana, I
found it convenient to return and pass the second
night there also. The different camel tracks consisted
entirely of sand, and the sandy character of the soil,
as well as the flat bed-rock, which was frequently
observed blown bare of covering by the breeze, showed
how precious was every drop of water. The vicinity
of a village was also marked by the deep excavations
made for water for the cattle and camels, generally
containing a limited quantity of thick, muddy liquid.
Around this supply of precious fluid, and all about

264 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the village, were invariably strutting hundreds upon
hundreds of peacocks and peahens, never harmed by
the inhabitants, yet no one's property, their gorgeous
plumage contrasting markedly with the dry, barren
country and the squalid nature of the mud-houses;
and mingled with them were thousands upon thou-
sands of ringdoves, so tame as to alight almost within
reach of one's hand. On one occasion we stopped to
rest the camels for a few moments under the shade of
one of the large trees, which, as previously mentioned,
invariably marked the site of a village, while the men
procured some water. I had been wondering at the
unusual absence of the accustomed flocks of peafowl,
until presently there was heard on every side the
squalling, as it seemed, of cats, which I now found
proceeded from numbers of the gaudy creatures, who
were perched upon the branches of the trees imme-
diately overhead, and were thus protesting at our
arrival having disturbed their usual mid-day siesta.

Occasionally fierce-looking inhabitants of Eajputana
were encountered, riding swiftly trotting camels, and
resembling in appearance Arabs of the African desert.
It was long after sunset that we entered the gate of
Ghusaniana, the officials of the tehsildar having ridden
on ahead to get things ready. The town was walled
in, not by earth or masonry, but by something far
more effective, namely, an enormous hedge of the
same impenetrable brambles with which the fields
were divided. The houses were formed entirely of
mud, and seemingly without any fixed model — each

BIKANEER AND THE GREAT DESERT. 265

being of different shape and plan from all the others ;
but the whole forming several winding streets inter-
spersed by trees. The inhabitants differed in appear-
ance from those of other parts of India, more resem-
bling the Arab tribes, as before stated, with finely
moulded limbs and features. A kind of a large gate-
way had been prepared for our reception, with a
charpoy and some firewood. It formed an archway
over one of the streets, and the opposite portion of it
was large enough to contain my horse as well as to
afford sleeping accommodation for some of the men ;
while the result of having sent the armed followers
on ahead of me was that a plentiful supply of milk and
butter was awaiting my arrival.

Next morning I started for the chase, taking the
two camels with several of the men, and a local guide,
and riding the grey horse myself. Before we had
gone far I found that my two capacious water bottles
had been forgotten, filled with weak tea, and so
necessary in such a country as this. This was soon
remedied, and before long a herd of deer were seen
in the centre of a large field. Halting the horse
behind a thick mimosa out of sight, and leaving one
of the camel-drivers to hold it, I advanced on foot with
my rifle, with the two camels, keeping them carefully
between myself and the herd. Instead of approaching
directly towards the game, the drivers were directed
by signs to pass the animals at a distance of 150
yards on the far side of the hedge of thorn, at which
spot I seated myself on the ground out of sight of the

266 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

animals, the wind also being favourable. Seeing me
stop, the camel-drivers very nearly spoiled the whole
arrangement or bandolast by stopping also, and it
required the most vigorous gesticulation to cause them
to move quickly ahead, preserving their original direc-
tion, before the game should take alarm. Being still
within sight of the drivers in their elevated position,
but not of the game, I was able by signs to direct the
course of the two camels, so that by making a wide
circle they might reach a point on the far side of the
field, and then drive the game towards me, which I
hoped might leap the fence at some place within shot
of my position. This was exactly what occurred.
The band of deer halted for a moment after taking
the fence, giving me time to pick out the finest pair of
horns, to aim just behind the shoulder of the bearer,
and fire, securing a lovely specimen of chincahra.

Game now commenced to be exceedingly numerous ;
deer were to be seen in every direction, and bird-life
in the form of partridges, sand grouse, pigeons,
occasionally a bustard, damosel cranes, and other
species were observable frequently. Cultivation, on
the other hand, became less frequent, and we soon
entered a large bir with a slightly undulating surface
stretching south as far as the eye could see. Almost
immediately I caught sight of a large herd of the
beautiful Indian antelope feeding in a wide open space,
and containing several fine bucks among their number.

From the extensive view obtainable off the back of
one of the camels, it was evident that no inconvenient

BIKANEER AND THE GEEAT DESERT. 267

antics or manoeuvring of the forces was required ; the
ground offered every facility for a stalk. No difficulty
was experienced in getting within shot of a fine speci-
men and planting a bullet just behind the shoulder
blade from a distance of about one hundred yards.
Seeing the animal bound away as though unhurt, I
blew the whistle, which was the signal to let loose
the deerhound, strong enough to pull down single-
handed a wounded buck. There was no need of the
dog, for after running to a considerable distance, the
animal fell dead. The next opportunity was offered
by two bucks which had been observed remaining in
the same place fighting obstinately for upwards of an
hour. On leaving the horse and camels out of sight,
and attempting a stalk, one of them was suddenly en-
countered unexpectedly as we came to the top of a
hillock. It is hard to say which of us felt most
surprise, the antelope or myself. This shot also was
successful. On my now riding southwards, as though
I wished to continue the chase, the camel-drivers pro-
tested that we were far from home, and that it would
be wiser to return, as the load of meat was heavy.
One more trophy, however, I desired, and, not sup-
posing that the Moslems would eat the meat of
these animals whose throats had not been cut before
death, in the orthodox manner, I set them all to work
with knives, decapitating, skinning, and removing the
choicer portions of the venison for myself, leaving, as
I thought, for the vultures, who were already dis-
cernible in the blue vault above us, nothing but the

268 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

trunks. I was amused, therefore, to find them desir-
ous of these unclean carcases for their own consump-
tion, when they understood that otherwise they would
not be required. Numbers of deer were visible on
the way home, but all of them took alarm when yet
half a mile distant at the sight of the grey horse,
excepting a small band of three, which I viewed
before they were conscious of any danger. A slight
undulation in the sand allowed me to get within two
hundred yards of them, and a fortunate shot brought
down another fine male chincahra.

IN BEITISH COLUMBIA, AMONGST THE WILD
WHITE GOATS OF THE CASCADES.

Victoria — Nanaimo — A Mining Population — Comox — My Irishman — Hiring
Indians and Canoe — Crossing to Texada — A successful Pioneer — Start
in our Canoe — Mountainous Scenery — Swimming Deer — Mountains
of Bute Inlet— Death of a wild White Goat — Terrible Precipices —
Home of the Goats — Difficult Mountaineering — Granite Mountain
— A wrecked Crew — Chart of the Coast — Waterfall — Our Camp at
Fawn Bluff— We meet a Tide Rip— Angling for Salmon— We kill
another Deer swimming.

MY camping outfit lay piled in a corner, not of the
luggage-van, but of the baggage-car, in the more cor-
rect Continental phrase, attached to the daily train of
the only railway line, recently completed on Vancouver
Island, between Victoria and the great carboniferous
deposits round Nanaimo — the splendid mines of coal
which will always be the island's principal source of
prosperity and wealth.

A train starts from each end of the line at an early
hour of the morning, and completes its journey in four
hours, at an average speed of twenty miles an hour.
The construction of this railway, on which the traffic
appears insufficient to pay the working expenses, was
encouraged by the Canadian Government, with the
intention of aiding the " opening up " of the district.
The line was built by Mr. Dunsmuir, the coal million-
aire, and proprietor of the above-mentioned mines.
He is now the owner of vast tracts of forest lands,
under which lie hidden many a great seam of the

270 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

same coal, stretching far away to the north along the
eastern coast. The railway curves and winds as it pro-
ceeds, walled in by encompassing conifers of compara-
tively overpowering height, mingled with a proportion
of lesser trees of stunted growth, standing amid
thickets of wild roses in blossom, alders, willows, and
oaks, the latter appearing to be confined to this
extremity of the island ; otherwise the journey
seemed monotonous, offering few attractions, but a
considerable saving of time compared with the route
by sea.

It happened to be Saturday night when I reached
Nanaimo, and, moreover, the mining population had
lately received their monthly wages. Unfortunate is
the visitor who has unknowingly arrived at Nanaimo
at such a time, and is compelled to become an occu-
pant of one of the hotels for want of any other place
to go. I found that it was only a step from the rail-
way station to the Eoyal Hotel, which was said to be
the best, in front of which I was deposited for half
a dollar by a waggonette and a fine pair of horses,
which had attended the arrival of the train — probably
because the horses were for sale. The rooms were
exceedingly diminutive, about 10 ft. by 12 ft., divided
from each other by plank walls, which " offered no
impediment" to the passage of sound. Men with
heavy boots and loud, gruff voices, entered and quitted
their respective rooms at various hours of the night as
they returned from carousing, the mines not being in
operation on the last day of the week.

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OE THE CASCADES. 271

I had "struck" Nanaimo on one of its "off" times,
Saturday; and, moreover, at the commencement of
the month, which is paytime, when dollars are wonder-
fully plentiful, and are, unfortunately, mostly spent in
drink and gambling.

The row of inns and bars in the main street were
thronged with a " hard " crowd, loud-voiced, coarse-
featured, and dressed "up to the nines," whatever
that may mean ; others were lounging with a kind
of studied and conscious aimlessness in the centre of
the street or " side- walks," which were paved with
boards, with an " eave-'arf-a-brick-at-the- stranger "
sort of manner, so embarrassing to a solitary visitor.
A new-comer would scarcely guess from their appear-
ance that these men were coal-miners.

At Nanaimo village, or city, as its inhabitants doubt-
less think of it, comfort or refinement is unknown.
Everything is sacrificed to the acquisition of the all-
powerful dollar. The inns (called hotels) are bad,
and the food worse. Its dwellers are men of the
type which builds up and develops a new country.

No Chinamen were visible. Since the terrible
explosion which occurred in the early part of the
year 1888, none have been employed in the mines;
only as cooks or launderers, or in some similar capa-
city, do they now find work.

Dollars are to be had in plenty for a moderate
amount of labour (a sum equal to ten shillings may
be earned by a few hours' work in the mines) ; and
as I heard it described by one of the miners them-

272 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

selves, their time is divided between the mines, the
bar, and the card-table.

Inhabited though ISTanaimo is by such a class, it
is not exceptional to find that all the various religious
denominations have taken root, and, as is generally
the case in every settlement of moderate size in this
country, the little churches or chapels belonging to
the different bodies form very conspicuous objects
in the landscape. The next day was Sunday ; all
the shops were closed, but access was obtainable to
all the drinking-bars by a side door. Several times
daily a detachment of the Salvation Army appointed
to this place, consisting of two men in uniform with
a drum, marches through the principal streets, hitherto
without having attracted any following, or, on the
other hand, without having been molested.

The departure of a small tug-boat called the Rustler
(the term " rustler" denoting an energetic person),
by which I intended to reach Comox, a settlement
about sixty miles farther up the coast, was quite un-
certain, and might have occurred on Monday or the
day after. This made it necessary to remain in
Nanaimo until the time and date of departure should
be made known. Eventually it was decided that the
tug was to leave on the Tuesday ; so I spent Monday
in the woods fly-fishing on the Nanaimo Eiver, about
eight miles distant, with the object of getting away
from the town. But the water was low and exceed-
ingly clear, the sun bright, and the salmon had not
yet commenced to run.

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES, 273

On either side of Nanaimo are situated two small
Indian settlements or villages. Owing to the readi-
ness with which employment can be obtained at high
wages on the spot, it was advisable to defer procuring
and hiring Indians or canoe until Comox was reached.
Here also, but in a lesser degree, similar conditions
hold with regard to Indian labour. Under no cir-
cumstances, as a rule, can the Indians of the Pacific
Coast be depended on with any degree of certainty
to work when they are wanted to ; their acceptance
of any employment offered cannot be definitely
counted on. Money is not a necessity to them, and
their fancies and inclinations are variable and uncertain.
In this respect they differ largely from the savage of
the interior. It thus became impossible to predict
whether two reliable Indians would be procurable at
Comox or not. It was necessary to have a white man
to fall back on in case of necessity. White men rated
themselves at a prohibitively high figure, such as $40
for a fortnight " and all found," and similar valuations.
Eventually an Irishman was found willing to go for
less ; he was taken as far as Comox, where Indians
were engaged, who proved to be of a class so much
beyond my expectations and so intelligent that it was
found best to dispense with his services, and he was
therefore sent back. They were certainly very expen-
sive, costing about £1 a day besides their food, but I
was informed that a large canoe with two Indians
could rarely be obtained for less. New coal seams on
other portions of the Dunsmuir property have already

274 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

been discovered near Comox. Work has been com-
menced there, and lines of railway almost completed,
several miles in length, connecting them with the
shore.

At eight the following morning I quitted Nanaimo
on the steam tug, without feeling any pangs of regret.
The Irishman had been " shipped " on board, and was
regarded by the captain, for some reason, with great
antipathy. As before mentioned, I found it unneces-
sary to take him beyond Comox, and from there he was
sent back in the steamer, somewhat to his disappoint-
ment, as he evidently expected to have an easy
time of it for the next fortnight. Comox was
reached after a pleasant run of eight hours up the
coast of Vancouver's Island. The sun was hot
and the day nearly cloudless, but a pleasant breeze
ruffled the surface of the water. The coast scenery
is decidedly attractive. It was settled that the
steamer should leave Comox again early the fol-
lowing morning for the iron mine on Texada Island
across the strait, which allowed me the late afternoon
and evening to conclude a bargain for two Indians
and a canoe — if they could be found — if I wished to
avail myself of the steamer in being towed across
the Straits of Georgia, for which service I was to
pay the sum of $7 ; which, however, I considered
preferable to the chance of being caught by a gale
of wind in the straits while far from any shelter. I
was, therefore, delivered over into the hands of
" Joe," an old soldierly -looking individual acting

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 275

as policeman, and having the duty assigned to him
of keeping the Indians from whisky, and whisky
from the Indians. Consequently Joseph was well
acquainted with the name and character of every
savage in the district, and possessed a considerable
amount of influence with them. Nothing but a
photograph would give any idea of Joe's personal
appearance. I had been forewarned by a thoughtful
storekeeper that a nose of peculiar merit was one of
his distinguishing features — or, rather, a noteworthy
portion of his features. I found him seated in the
doorway of his house smoking an evening pipe — tall,
gaunt, grizzled, weather-beaten, with keen, deep lines
in his face, and a prominent nose, so exceedingly
rubicund that it seemed to indicate where .the illegal
whisky went whenever he was successful in his duty.
Prepared as I was, it was difficult to repress a smile.
For nothing less than 19s. a day and food could the
services be procured of two Indians and their canoe,
one of them, speaking more exactly, being a half-
breed. The latter' s name was George Mitchell. His
father had been one of the earliest, if not entirely the
first, of the settlers in the district, who had taken for
a wife an Indian squaw, had ill-treated her, and had
finally been murdered by her relations in revenge.
This half-breed was twenty-nine years of age, and
spoke English almost as fluently as though he were
wholly of white parentage. The other was a full-
blooded savage, calling himself Jack Mac, and savage

T 2

276 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

he turned out in every sense of the word, though I
managed to get along fairly well with him on the
whole.

The tug-boat was to start for Texada iron mine, on
the island of that name, at the early hour of four next
morning, and, if the canoe were put aboard or towed
behind across the Straits of Georgia, it would enable
us to avoid the tedium of paddling or rowing across
this somewhat wide channel which divides Vancou-
ver's Island from the mainland at this point, or, if
it should turn out windy, of escaping the modicum
of danger present with the heavy sea which is some-
times raised in these wide reaches open to the influ-
ence of south- easters. George had been especially
enjoined that they were to bring the canoe in good
time, but at the appointed hour of sailing no signs
of the Indians had been seen. The Irishman, for
the first and last time, was now made useful by being
despatched in search, while I requested that the
whistle might be sounded in as peremptory and jerky
a manner as possible. Meantime the engineer was
obliged to allow some of his surplus steam, and the
captain some of his surplus " swear- words," to escape,
directed generally against all Irishmen and Indians.
At last, when all the " cuss- words " had been used,
and the order to cast off was about to be given, I
begged for five minutes more. The only thing that
tended towards keeping the captain in good humour
was the prospect of leaving the Irishman behind;
but, as he would then have been thrown upon my

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 277

hands, this would not have suited me. At the last
moment a canoe was observed to shoot round the
point behind which, half a mile distant, was situated
the Eancherie, and presently it was made fast behind
with a tow rope.

A stiff breeze was blowing down the straits from
the north-west, the fair-weather quarter, raising quite
a sea, in which the steamer rolled alarmingly, causing
the complete collapse of the Irishman, who was still
in the canoe.

Three hours' steaming brought us across to the iron
mine on Texada Island, situated on a steep slope some
three hundred feet above the sea, affording consider-
able facilities for shipping the ore from a small pier
or landing-stage built on piles, which must have been
driven with difficulty into the rocky bottom of the
ocean at this point.

Chinese labour in the mines, as before mentioned,
has been limited to surface-work since the last acci-
dent, and as they are gregarious, the number of
miners who are Chinamen is limited ; for instance,
here were twenty white miners and but one Mongo-
lian, though the ore was extracted entirely by quarry-
ing. The wages of a Chinaman are but half those of
a white, and the amount of work he accomplishes is
considered to be less than half.

The captain, amongst many other settlers, held him-
self indebted to the generosity of Mr. Dunsmuir, and
he was fond of relating how an old Indian chief, still
living but now nearly totally blind and deaf, was

278 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

aware of the existence of the coal long before any
white man had discovered indications of its presence ;
and how Dunsmuir, now past the prime of life, with
his pick and a companion, had commenced a search
for fresh proofs of the seam ; how the companion lost
hope and patience, and gave up, just before Dunsmuir,
under the roots of a fallen tree, found accidentally
what he sought, of which discovery many different
semi-sensational tales are related; how from small
beginnings, with a mule-truck and a line of wooden
rails, coal of the best quality was shipped in a schooner
to Victoria, then a smaller town than it is now, and
peddled for house use. From this homely commence-
ment, with pecuniary assistance from the right
quarter, grew up the costly and remunerative enter-
prise which has made Departure Bay, Nanaimo, the
coaling station on British soil for most of the North
Pacific Ocean steamers, and turned the once needy
prospector into a millionaire, the exact amount of
whose wealth is unknown even to himself. He is
now the uncrowned king of Vancouver's Island.

The owner and captain of the steamer was a fair
example of an eager, enterprising Scotchman, steadily
and gradually amassing money in one of our British
colonies.

Like most traders in a country where timber is
plentiful and cheap, he had on more than one
occasion been " burnt out," but had been enabled
each time to make a fresh start. He had filled
different positions in connection with the mines, and

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 279

was now the owner of a steam tug-boat, six hundred
and forty acres of land, and a trading store, chiefly for
Indians, on one of the large islands, a schooner, a
small fortune, and a happy family. The prime of
life was still before him.

The strong north-west wind which was blowing had
prevented our casting off as I had intended when two-
thirds of the way across the straits, but had left me
no excuse for not visiting the mines. The breeze
continued to blow briskly, without signs of drop-
ping, when I started in the canoe with the two
Indians for the long journey to Bute Inlet. I had
selected this inlet because the scenery was said to
be as grand as any on the coast, and the wild goats
numerous.

We hugged the steep rocky shore of Texada closely,
keeping under the shelter of each projecting headland.
The rocks were bright with coloured sea weed and
thick clusters of starfish, some purple and others
yellow; great sea slugs could be seen through the
clear water on the variegated bottom, and occasionally,
among the ulvse, a great dark- coloured rock-cod, not
even troubling to move as the canoe passed over him.
So large and strong was the canoe, that one might feel
perfectly safe in it in moderate weather ; and a fine
specimen, too, of Indian work, carved, by burning
and cutting, out of a single tree trunk of cedar, not
Douglas fir, both species growing to upwards of 300
feet in height and proportionate thickness. Including
the projecting bow and stern pieces, which were sepa-

280 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

rately morticed on, the length of the canoe was 30 ft.,
the width 5 ft., the thickness of the sides 3 ins.,
and of the bottom rather more. The interior was
painted vermilion, and the exterior black. On the
bows were white marks, which seemed as though
they were intended to represent mouth and eyes, as
one finds on all Chinese boats. The Indians had
omitted to bring oars, which I consequently deter-
mined they should make on the first opportunity ; our
progress, therefore, with the paddles was slow. A sail
had to be manufactured out of a large tent, and
was intended to be hoisted on a strong mast in
the bows, and was only suitable for running before
the wind, and I immediately set one of the men to
work at it.

When we reached the extreme west cape of Texada
Island, after several hours' paddling, the wind had died
quite away, and presently commenced to blow gently
from the contrary direction, enabling us to set sail
across the few miles of open sea which intervenes
between Texada and Harwood Islands, which latter
is reserved for the Indians. Coasting along the shore,
we made good another ten miles before the breeze
dropped, and reached the mainland just as darkness
descended, and there we prepared to camp. Jack
usually anchored the canoe at night in some sheltered
bay by dropping a heavy weight over the stern
attached to a rope, and making fast ashore a long line
from the bows. The slope of the beach was always
regular and gradual, and the length of rope by which

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 281

the stern weight was suspended prevented the canoe
from approaching within a certain distance from land
as the tide rose ; if the tide was ebbing the canoe was
allowed to ground if the beach was sandy ; if not, it
was kept anchored below low-water mark.

The following morning I enjoyed an exquisite view
of the ranges of mountains on Vancouver's Island
across the straits. West by south could be seen
the fine snowy and rocky peak, named Mount Victoria
(7,404 ft.), exceedingly steep and rugged, of which
no attempted ascent is known ; more west stands
Mount Crown (6,028 ft.), and next it massive Mount
Alexandra ; then comes a low depression extending
right across the island, containing Buttle Lake. On
the opposite side of this depression, about south-west
by west, rose Mount Albert Edward (6,968 ft.).
Opposite lay Comox, with smoke rising from the
new mines, and behind it the long snowy range.

Camp life on the coast, in these sheltered archi-
pelagoes, is as pleasant as need be, especially during
the long spells of fine sunny weather. The absence
of mosquitoes is also one of its blessings, best appre-
ciated by those who have experienced these plagues
in the interior of the continent.

We started late next day to gain the advantage of
a flowing tide, and enjoyed a favourable breeze during
the whole day of just the right strength, which swept
us rapidly along past crescent-shaped Savary Island, a
pleasant- looking spot, with white sandy cliffs like
those of Harwood.

282 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Passing the entrance to Malaspina Inlet, we en-
tered Desolation Sound. I could see no particular
reason why the British Coast Survey should have
named it thus. It differed from other inlets only in
the fact that its thickly wooded mountains seemed
rounded instead of rising into jagged peaks, snow-
patched. Then we glided on into the narrow Lewis
channel between Cortez Island, with steep and lofty
cliffs, and Eedonda Island, a mountainous, smoothly-
wooded, yet rocky pass, traced with marks of forest
fires. Between Eedonda and Eaza, which was the
next island on the right, a broken waterfall is seen
apparently over a thousand feet in height, falling
off the margin of a wooded plateau above Point
George, and behind it rise some fine rocky peaks,
marked on the chart as 6,000 ft. in height. The
conflicting tidal currents in certain spots were very
remarkable. Passing an interesting chain of lesser
islands on our left, called the Eendezvous Islands,
and skirting on our right a long promontory of the
mainland, we reached the mouth of Bute Inlet, which
is blocked by Stuart Island, forming the dangerous
Arran rapids, which at times run at a speed of from
seven to nine knots. Due west across the entrance
rose a fine peak, 6,055 ft. in height. The wind was
blowing freshly, and just at this point Jack, the full-
blooded Indian — whose eyesight, as well as that of
George, I found on several occasions to be marvellously
keen — discovered a deer swimming in mid-channel,
right ahead of us, about half a mile distant, and at least

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 283

two miles from the nearest land. How difficult an
object was the deer's head to distinguish, as it swam
amid the tumbling, rolling waters, I realised when I
tried to see it after the exact spot had been pointed
out. We were much in want of meat. By the
time I had extracted my rifle from a bag and taken
it from the case, and found the cartridges which were
in another bag, with all possible speed, the deer was
only a dozen yards ahead, and we were bearing down
on it at a speed of five knots under sail. The broad
ears were erect, and it was cleaving the waves at an
astonishing speed, turning from one direction to
another to avoid the advancing canoe. Just as I
pulled the trigger the pointed ears were laid flat back
upon the neck in an agony of fear, and in a moment
the bullet had done its deathly work, and the head
plunged below the surface. Dropping the rifle
quickly, I attempted to grasp some projecting portion
of the carcase as we swept over it. Jack, however,
managed to seize one of its feet, and both together we
dragged it over the side, its thick coat saturated
with water. Just at that moment the boom of a
distant gun informed me of the cause of the animal
thus attempting such a long swim against the tide —
that some Indians on one of the islands at the entrance
of the inlet were driving deer into the sea, and
then pursuing them in canoes, their favourite mode
of killing them. We camped in a charming little
cove that evening, close to Fawn Bluff, on the east
shore, and left early the following morning, although

284 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

the tide was running swiftly out of Bute Inlet,
because we had the advantage of a favourable wind,
which gradually freshened into half a gale. The
smooth bottom of the canoe allowed her to glide at
a rapid pace, with occasionally an exhilarating bound
like a restive steed, among steep waves, which fol-
lowed but were unable to overtake her. Beyond
Clipper Point we passed the spot where, I had been
informed, three white men were living in a " logging
camp," employed in constructing a raft of timbers,
to be eventually towed to civilisation. Signs of their
work could be seen, though the distance was over a
mile. Shortly beyond, on the right or opposite side
of the inlet, could be distinguished the Indian hamlet
in Orford Bay, which I visited in returning. Alpha
Bluff, apparently so named from a magnificent cliff
just beyond it, was the next landmark, and we then
entered one of the finest reaches in Bute Inlet.

Granite Peak (6,653 ft.) is a splendid spectacle, but
is seen to the best advantage after passing the next
promontory, or Point Boyd, where another grand
reach commences, stretching to Point Purcell. On
the eastern or opposite shore of Bute Inlet rise The
Needles (7,800 ft.) facing Point Boyd. Owing to the
large scale on which the natural features of the coast
are constructed, including the trees — fir, pine, and
cedars — which grow larger than in other lands or the
interior, one's first conception of altitudes and distances
is invariably incorrect. A true idea of such actual di-
mensions is only to be obtained by perpetual travel and

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 285

observation in detail, by experiencing how long one
takes to ' kill distance,' and how much more than the
estimated time is sometimes required to reach points
which have long been in sight. The effect of the
forests is thus to lessen the apparent height of the
peaks on which they grow. In front of us lay Bear
Bay, in which neither of the Indians had been before.
It was necessary for me to find a spot where the canoe
might be safely beached, and to select it long before it
was reached, as the gale was blowing strongly down
the inlet, and our only course was to run before it,
which we were doing at a speed of about ten knots.
It would have been quite impossible to revert to any
sheltered cove after we had been once swept beyond
it. To paddle such a large canoe in the face of a gale
was beyond the power of three men. Gravel beaches
even a few yards in width are exceedingly scanty in
number, and frequently disappeared altogether at
high water. The steep sides of the surrounding
mountains, becoming steeper as they approach the
water, descend in sheer precipitous walls into Bute
Inlet, except where the action of the waves have worn
a ledge-like belt.

To combine a landing place with some locality in
the neighbourhood where the timbered heights look
ascendable, not to speak of pleasant or easy, was
another necessity, and, moreover, the discovery of
such a place had to be made before it was passed. To
pass it was to lose it. I had anticipated heavy gusts
round some of the capes, and, much against their wild

286 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

will, had made the Indians take a reef in the sail,
which was still so large, however, that Jack appeared
to have all he could manage in steering the canoe to
prevent it being whisked round. Finally, I ordered
that our course should be directed into Bear Bay, in
the nearer corner of which it was possible to make
a landing by hauling the canoe over a collected mass
of logs and driftwood ; in the cutting, pushing, and
general handling of which the two men showed them-
selves wonderfully proficient, helping me to realise
what woodcraft meant. Soon after this I was given
an opportunity of estimating to what extent one can
safely impose restraint upon the wilful temper of an
independent savage.

After sufficient space had been cleared for a small
camp, I decided to paddle out from shore to such a
distance as might afford a view of the heights above,
to enable me to judge of the best route for the ascent
in search of wild white goats the following day. Jack
was rowing with an oar which we had fortunately
found at the last camping place, and, on my signing
to him to exchange it for my paddle and take his place
in the stern, he instantly broke off the pin in a fit of
impatience and threw it overboard, thus rendering it
impossible for me to row as I had intended. "When
asked to carry some cartridges next day he refused.

Early in the morning a start was made. In anti-
cipation of a dreadfully steep and somewhat danger-
ous scramble, I took sufficient provisions for three
days. Steep it proved, but after six hours' climbing

AMOKGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 287

we reached the ridge above, where enough level
ground existed for a tent, and there, among deep
drifts of snow, we camped. Not far below camp we
had observed fresh tracks of goats, and bunches of their
white fleeces hanging pendent upon numerous twigs,
and clinging to giant trunks of trees where standing
room existed, or where it was level enough for a goat
to lie, resembling the tame sheep's wool generally to
be seen attached to bushes or palings in England
where the animals are enclosed.

There remained time for a stalk before night,
and, therefore, forth we started on our search, Jack
and I, the former barefoot, proceeding with extreme
caution. We had scarcely descended far, fighting
our way as much as possible towards the ravines
below the ridge on the landward side, when Jack, who
was in front, came within sight of a goat which was
making for the ravine, and seemed to have become
aware of danger, and for a few minutes it was lost to
sight. The wind was blowing from the right direc-
tion, and by taking special pains not to step on any
twigs we obtained another glimpse of the white fleece.
I fired twice, and after the second shot it disappeared.
We found it had rolled down for nearly a hundred
feet, and was lying dead, to my great joy, in the
angular bed of a stream edged with low scrub, in
which the water was half sliding, half falling down
such a dizzy declivity, that I wondered why the
animal had not vanished for ever into the awful depths
below. The second shot had struck the spine. Beau-

288 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

tiful in death she lay, for it was a female or nanny,
the white beard draggling in the water, and the
snowy fleece soaked by the stream, and contrasting
with the black curving horns ; and so close and dense
its hair that the animal seeks the coldest spots in
summer time, and suffers nothing from the winter's
frost, the strong legs and sharp supple hoofs designed
for climbing where an eagle would scarce find place
to perch.

To convey myself and rifle back safely to camp was
as much as I could manage, while Jack tied the
severed head to his waist, and before dark there
remained time for the men to make a second trip for a
load of meat. The next morning at daybreak I
hunted on the opposite side of our ridge. Eain had
set in, and the character of the ground was exceed-
ingly dangerous ; upright couloirs of smooth rock
alternated with lines of cliffs, hollows, and steep
slopes, with dense vegetation, overshadowed by
spruces ; beyond fresh tracks of bears, no signs of
game were visible.

The large amount of meat George and Jack de-
voured by impaling cabobs of it, and roasting on a
stick, was a prodigy. Impatient of kindling a fire,
I observed them on another occasion content with
merely warming keeches of raw and solid flesh under
their naked armpits, as though to impart once more
some vital warmth to the lifeless meat before chewing
and masticating. Tough to the teeth was the goat,
and goaty to the taste, and I confined myself to deer

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 289

meat, which, though likewise slightly tough at first,
was now excellently tender.

Grass shoes, brought from Japan, and universally
worn in that country by the natives, I had found ex-
ceedingly tenacious on difficult ground, while they
resembled closely the grass foot-gear of Kashmir,
which I had worn in that country not long before.
We were now camped at an elevation of about six
thousand feet above the sea, but it was not cold ; rain,
however, had set in steadily, and the men were sleep-
ing under the overhanging branches of a tree, wrapped
up in their blankets before the fire. In addition to
the small tent, I proceeded to stretch some large
sheets of stout Japanese oil-paper, attached by ropes
overhead, as a sort of extra shelter from the rain ; and
afterwards occupied the time by skinning the goat's
head and preparing the skull, keeping up a good fire,
and then cooking dinner over it. In the evening I
decided with George that it would be better to move
the camp and descend about a thousand feet before
night, in case the wind rose. This was accomplished
after we had spent much time in searching for some
level spot capable of accommodating the tent. Small
as the latter was, we found it necessary to excavate
the requisite portion of level ground out of the hill-
side, in a place which reminded me of the hut on the
Zermatt side of the Matterhorn.

While the men had been engaged in bringing some
more of the goat's meat into camp, I had ascended to
a bare spot which commanded a comprehensive view

u

290 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

of the animal's habitat at this season of the year. A
place more inaccessible by nature could scarcely be
imagined. Let there be conceived, then, an enor-
mous ravine sloping upwards from the sea at an angle
of 50° from the vertical, up to a height of 7,000
ft., with precipitous sides, comparatively narrow and
thickly overgrown in parts. Half-way up from the
bottom it widens out like the half of a huge funnel,
seamed with little watercourses, down which the
water is partly slipping, partly falling, so steep is
the angle of inclination, and so smooth their beds.
Wherever vegetation can find root, it grows, until
swept away by falling rocks and avalanches. The
northern portion of this appallingly impossible ravine
was as steep and perpendicular as any precipice one
could imagine which does not actually overhang its
own base. I believe that if a stone were dislodged
from the ridge along the top it would fall 5,000 ft.
without touching more than twice or thrice. Here
and there this cliff is veined with narrow ledges,
piled with stones, on which grass grows, and on one
or two broader strips, or variations from the perpen-
dicular, stand clusters of small firs, and plants on
which these wild goats browse. Steep, indeed, must
the ground be where these pines can find no roothold.
On this awful spot —

Like that dim gulf
Where sense and being swoon
When the soul parts —

where no human foot may ever tread, whence a

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 291

bear or wolf would be hurled into a mangled carcase
on the torrent below if it ventured to attempt to pass ;
on this cliff, where all the ospreys on the coast might
find separate eyries, a wonderful sight was to be seen.
Broken masses of mist from the main body of cloud
upon the peaks were drifting across the face of it.
My standpoint was on a level with the upper portion
which rose immediately opposite. Upon the wild
front of this part of the rock's face, scattered in
various places, I could count nine wild goats, there
being probably many more below which could not be
seen, each one followed by a little snow-white kid,
gambolling and frisking round her, like white flies
upon a wall. The mere idea of being lowered by
ropes from the ridge above would almost make a man
tremble, but it would be the only manner in which a
human being without wings could reach any portion
of the cliff. Mothers and young, owing to climbing
powers, which appeared to me to exceed those of
chamois or ibex, and even those of any of the varieties
of wild sheep, were safe from all creatures of prey,
except perhaps the eagle, which might have snatched
a kid while sweeping by.

First impressions often convey the truest ideas, and
the most exact comparison which could be made, on
a smaller scale, and which forced itself upon me, was
that of large white larvso upon the side of a stone
wall, clinging to the interstices in the mortar. The
colour of the animals is pure white, faintly dashed
with red, as of tawny or reddish snow. Were it not

u 2

292 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

for such abnormal climbing power, creatures so plainly
visible from afar would fall an easy victim in summer-
time to the sure-footed, bare-footed Indian hunter.

As I turned away I felt that I had been looking in
solitude upon the sublime. I had seen nature combin-
ing opposite moods of sternness and love more inti-
mately than I was ever likely to again.

This was not the last I saw of the wild white goat
of the Eocky Mountains. On the way back, as we
.skirted the east side of the inlet, I observed in several
places small groups of the white goats about four
thousand feet above the calm water of the inlet on
which we were gliding. They resembled small white
lumps of snow, and were always in the most inaccess-
ible positions ; and for snow I had taken them. High
up among some green vegetation opposite Point Bluff
a group of four could be discerned, apparently having
chosen a position surrounded on every side by the
most vertical walls of rock.

At length I always commenced my search for them
with the field- glass first along the steepest and most
inaccessible declivities. Nature not having adapted
them to the possibility of concealment except on snow,
any which existed wrere soon seen — white, next to
black, being the colour the most easily observed.
Game gifted with such marvellous power of climbing
can never suffer extermination, like the buffalo or the
dodo in the past, or as in the near future, the sea
otter, beaver, wapiti, Kashmir red deer, or African
elephant.

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 293

An important characteristic of mountaineering on
the western slope of the Pacific watershed is the
peculiar obstacles it offers, entirely different from
anything of the kind in Europe. With proper guides
and ice-axes, the practised mountaineer can cross blue
ice lying at a steep angle — the last slope of the
Aletschhorn, the last aretes of the Bernina orWeisshorn
seem merely episodes in the day's work ; but in
British Columbia the mountain slopes of the coast are
different, and of the same character throughout. Up
to a height of about seven thousand feet the sides are
excessively steep, ascending at an angle of about 35°
from the vertical, often consisting of compact, stony
earth covered with multitudes of small broken twigs
and loose pebbles. Coarse, short varieties of grass
grow upon the surface, beaten flat upon the soil by
the pressure of the snow and the washing of the rain,
each blade pointing downwards like the tiles on the
roof, and offering a slippery foothold to ordinary foot-
gear if it offers any at all. It is true that, in certain
difficult places, to tread upon a twig and slip without
recovering one's footing means destruction. Here
and there stunted alder and other bushlets grow,
whose branches, while constituting a danger if
trodden upon, do also afford a means of partial safety,
for they offer the only hand-hold that exists, except-
ing where in places the trailing branches of a spruce
are seen. The tenacity of their roots within the soil is
only moderate; one must be careful to trust but a
fraction of one's weight upon any single plant, as

294 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

many as possible must be seized and grasped together.
Frequently, with rifle strapped to my back, it was
necessary to cross bare, open spaces without one
friendly plant with which to stay a slip, and where
the only thought present with any sane person could
be where the foot should be placed with the greatest
likelihood of its holding, perhaps combined with a
formless, unexpressed regret that one had not suffered
the wild goats to remain undisturbed. To fall was to
slide downwards, and to slide downwards meant, " My
native land, good night ! " It will be understood that
after these experiences I attached higher value to my
goat's snow-white head than to any other trophy of
the chase.

To make our way down once more to Bute Inlet
after having achieved and deserved success, carrying
our trophy, was rather a prolonged lowering of oneself,
from bush to bush, or by long branches whenever they
came within reach, than any real reliance upon one's
legs. George and Jack were thankful to get back
again safe to where we had left the canoe, and I know
I was. At the far corner of Bear Bay, four miles
away, there appeared to be a large stream, and there
I determined to camp. It turned out to be a glacial
river of considerable volume, and at the mouth stood
a couple of empty Indian houses, with long rows of
poles for drying oolachans or candle-fish. The water
of the upper portion of Bute Inlet, including Bear
Bay, has a faint milky tinge, and is fresh enough to
drink, notwithstanding its great depth, and the force

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 295

with which the tides run in and out. At the head are
two great rivers, called Homalko and Southgate. In
the former the chart informs us that the " freshet in
August runs out four to five knots; low, swampy
land, willow, pine, and alder." Overhead tower
Kodney Mountain (7,883 ft.), Mount Evans (6,900
ft.), House Mountain (4,118 ft.), and Mount
Superb (8,000 ft.). Half-way between Points Boyd
and Bluff, and visible from the latter, is a fine
waterfall, apparently 600 ft. in height. It was
probable that the recent rain had considerably added
to its volume, but a large portion of it was dispersed
in spray before reaching the sea. The dark-coloured
rocks behind were overgrown by moss, and the falling
water produced quite a gale of wind, which blew on
us with a cold damp breath, as we sat and gazed
upwards from below, heated by rowing.

On the opposite shore stands Granite Mountain, the
northern half consisting of three immense wedge-
shaped blocks of granite, with fearful smooth preci-
pices on each side composed of grey stone ; the
southern half consisting of three rounded balloon-
shaped, domelike protuberances about three thousand
feet in vertical height, rounded off by glacial action
and water. After rain the roar of innumerable
cascades on both sides of the Inlet is heard, slipping
down the smooth couloirs and water channels in little
silver threads, uniting into rivulets below, and making
Cascade Eange the appropriate name of this chain of
mountains.

296 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

On the opposite shore, as I mentioned before,
could just be distinguished signs of the puny ravage
which the three inhabitants of the logging camp, the
only other human beings in the neighbourhood, had
made among the timber, in the shape of a faint small
yellow speck upon the water's edge, which denoted a
great raft destined to be towed at a painfully slow
speed, many a league down the Straits of Georgia ;
while I even fancied I could distinguish smoke rising
among the trees, from the place where the little log-
hut might have been situated.

For lack of anything else to think about I con-
sidered the resources which the occupants of a canoe
would possess, if they happened to be wrecked on
these shores, as well might happen. The most useful
implement they could have would be an axe. If an
Indian were of the party, the whites would place their
reliance upon his savage instinct rather than on their
own reasoning powers ; for want of any other foothold
they would be compelled to follow the water's edge,
until in places, even at low tide, this pathway too dis-
appeared, where the cliffs descended sheer for many
fathoms below the surface ; and how they would be
forced to clamber round by means of bushes, in immi-
nent peril of falling, and ignorant whether round the
next point even this method of advance might not
be impossible, or else to take to the water where ob-
stacles were only passable by swimming with the
help of a log, while their fare would be limited to
mussels and salmon-berries.

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 297

Straight up in rear towered long steep slopes
covered with great pines and cedars, which seemed to
reach, as is often the case on the delta of the Eraser, a
height of over 300 ft.

At such trees, George would occasionally point
and mutter " big canoe," meaning that out of such a
tree had been carved the canoe in which we were then
rowing.

Bute Inlet, with its great trees, and its unsurpassed
scenery, winding its way into the heart of the moun-
tains like some mighty river, impresses the observer
with a kind of terror. "Were it a European lake
instead of an inlet of the Pacific Ocean, unseen except
by the lumberer or the hunter, its reputation would
have been accomplished. The map to which I have
referred in the various names of promontories, peaks,
and islands, is that issued from our Hydrographic
Office and numbered 580, and called "North America,
West Coast ; Vancouver I. and British Columbia ;
Strait of Georgia, sheet 2 ; north-east part of Texada I.
to Johnstone Strait, including Toba, Bute, and Lough-
borough Inlets. Surveyed by Captain G. H. Eich-
ards, E.N., assisted by Lieutenant E. C. Mayne, &c.,
1860, with additions in 1864." The most conspicu-
ous peaks received names when our Admiralty Survey
charted the coast. One would naturally like to know
which Smith and what Evans have been immortalised
by having been made the godfathers of two of the
grandest mountains of the group, and as the names
are not uncommon the reasons might have been noted

298 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

in a corner of the chart, stating their claims to dis-
tinction. No explanation is necessary when names
such as Mounts Granite, Eodney, or Superb were
chosen. The latter rises gracefully to a height of
8,000 ft. opposite to Bear Bay, and was especially
beautiful when its peaks on a calm day were doubled
by reflection in the glassy sea at its base.

Coasting along the eastern shore in returning, we
stopped awhile at the Indian village in Orford Bay,
facing Alpha Bluff; there were only four diminutive
little huts, and these were quite deserted. At this
spot two deep valleys converge, forming an area com-
paratively flat, but of small extent, where the two
rivers combine. Above the mouth soars a tremendous
cliff, while the beach affords one of the few landing
places in the inlet ; thence the scenery continues in
unmixed grandeur to beyond Point Clipper, profound
ravines and gulches winding upwards from the water
into the rocky wooded walls to a height of 6,000 ft.

Occasionally as we proceeded a salmon or other fish
broke the surface, while seals appeared tolerably
numerous by the number of black heads which were
visible, gazing at us with apparent curiosity from afar.
Eesting motionless upon a long floating log eight
seals were seen, which remained quiescent, without
being aware of any danger, till we paddled noiselessly
to within fifty yards of them, and fired at the largest.
The aim was too high, and in an instant, with one vast
united splash, the animals had disappeared, nor was
any sign of them ever seen again.

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 299

Being now experienced in discovering goats, what
I should previously have taken for small patches of
reddish snow were now resolved into specimens of the
wild goat, as the heights were scanned, like groups of
small white points of equal size and always in the
most inaccessible positions, hemmed in by giddy
walls of rock, which would repulse a Himalayan ape.

The rain continued to fall, and created numberless
cascades, falling in long silver threads across the
green from the upper sky-line, where the vegetation
served but to conceal the cliffs which lay ready to
oppose man's too familiar advances.

The old camping-place at Fawn Bluff was the best
in such weather, near the entrance of Bute Inlet,
though on the way we passed one other strip of beach
which appeared to offer area enough for the spreading
of a tent, "Weary as we were of rowing, the Indians
looked longingly at the streamlet which foamed across
the gravel, but were too proud to give any sign of
their desire to halt, for our old camp was still far
distant.

Our camp at the mouth of Bute Inlet was so cha-
racteristic that it deserves a description. Two days
were passed here, while the rain descended in columns,
and the dark, draggled masses of cloud streamed past
overhead, driving steadily out of the south-east, which
is the rainy quarter for the whole coast from California
to the Aleutian Islands. A cove, snug and protected
from the winds and waves, was formed by a deep, but
not very abrupt, ravine, down which two small brooks

300 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

of unequal size sparkled, and finally flowed across the
stony beach at either extremity of the landing place.
Blowing violently though the wind was, and ruffling
the centre of Bute Inlet into white-capped waves, this
miniature harbour always remained in a state of per-
fect stillness, except for a faint pulsation or reflection
from the storm without. The rocks at the entrance,
rounded by the action of long-vanished glaciers, were
bare, owing to the weather, except for a covering of
yellow moss. Elsewhere, and especially at the head
of the bay, overhanging the beach, was to be seen
nothing excepting vegetation of the densest description
and the darkest and most vivid greens. Moss fes-
tooned the branches and carpeted the sharp stones
and fallen trees so closely as to form traps and pitfalls
everywhere. Under the shade of a grove of pines and
cedars of immense height lay a portion of flat, level
ground, almost hidden underneath a rich growth of
large-leaved plants of several varieties. In the centre
was erected an Indian shelter of the usual shape and
construction. Two sloping roofs, made of tree trunks
rudely split into planks by means of wedges, were
supported by a few uprights, and placed sufficiently
distant from each other to allow the smoke of a fire
lighted on the ground beneath to escape through the
slit thus left. At the opposite ends the two roofings
descended to within a couple of feet from the ground,
but side walls or doors there were none. Smooth,
water- worn logs lay stranded on the beach, and offered
convenient seats, and the stones at low tide were

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 301

coated with, mussels and barnacles. A heavy iron
wheel, secured to a long rope, served as an anchor for
the canoe, which was also made fast ashore by a long
line. As we had made fifty miles the day before, and
the rain was falling continuously, I resolved that we
should remain here, hoping for a change. The time
which was not occupied in cooking venison, eating it,
or reposing, was spent by the Indians in conversing,
collecting firewood, mussels, or salmon berries, and by
myself in endeavouring to exclude the drops of rain
which entered through the cracks. Trophies of the
chase, in the shape of the goat's skull and horns, I had
placed in one of the streams to macerate, in the
absence of any ants' nest ; but George and Jack
shortly appeared, carrying them back, looking exceed-
ingly foolish, and insisting that the rain would infal-
libly continue so long as the bones were allowed to
remain there in the water.

The following afternoon the rain showed symptoms
of abating, the tide had still a couple of hours to ebb,
and, to satisfy the Indians, I agreed that we should
endeavour to reach some spot Jack knew where salmon
could be caught. George and I in the canoe could
never agree, without going ashore for ocular proof by
watching the rise or fall of the water, as to whether
the tide was ebbing or flowing as the period of change
approached. And, truly, the movements of the water
were most unaccountable, as they affected the ocean
level, on account of the tide-rips, eddies, over-falls,
backwaters, tidal currents, counter- currents, and

302 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

whirlpools ; and more particularly owing to the fact
that hereabouts the incoming waters meet, and the
outgoing waters part, passing and repassing on each
side or extremity of Vancouver's Island. These places
or points of junction or separation of the two opposing
tides, one of the east and the other of the west, are
marked upon the Admiralty charts of the coast by
arrows pointing in different and opposite directions,
and lines to represent the tide-rips, and generally with
a warning that in the narrower channels in the
vicinity the currents run with dangerous velocity,
sometimes, as in the Arran Rapids at the entrance of
Bute Inlet and the Cardero Eapids close by, reaching
nine knots an hour. Thus are formed the whirls
when two such currents or some of lesser velocity
meet, so much to be dreaded by canoes or small boats.
Through one of these it happened that we were com-
pelled to pass that same evening. Eut even when
one had decided that the tide had " turned," it was
impossible to foretell whether the capricious flood
would be favourably disposed to us and assist us on
our way, or retard us by persisting in moving in the
contrary direction. Who has not watched the flowing
tide pouring into small rocky pools between the
boulders and stones? For this, greatly magnified,
represents the Pacific Ocean rising and falling twice
a day among the deep, winding inlets of British
Columbia. George would always declare perversely,
whenever we found the current contrary, that some-
where else on the other side, if I had only gone there,

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 303

we should have found the set of the waters favourable,
or moving in the opposite direction ; or some cape or
promontory, no matter how distant, would be accused
of causing a counter-current on purpose to oppose
our progress.

It was strange to observe the torn and ragged-edged
purple clouds hurrying past overhead. About five
o'clock the little bay was in sight right ahead across a
channel of rough water about a mile wide, where Jack
asserted were the Indian houses, and a species of
whirlpool formed by the tide, in which salmon
abounded. In the strong breeze which was now
blowing the struggles of Jack with his paddle were
amazing as he pressed it against the keel, if the pro-
jecting bottom of a keelless canoe could be so named,
in opposition to the disposition the sail had of twisting
us broadside to the seas. Under these circumstances
I never ventured to take his place. At this hour the
tide should have been turning, and the incoming
waters, advancing from both sides of Vancouver's
Island, should have been meeting somewhere in the
neighbourhood. I was trusting in our usual good
fortune to befriend us in avoiding the tide-rips, as
this was my first intimation of the real position of
the Indian hamlet. Not long after this I became
aware of a strange white line of boiling, spuming
foam between us and the land, and it seemed to be
advancing in the teeth of the wind. We were flying,
as it were, to meet or intercept it at a rate nearly
exceeding that of the surrounding waves, until sud-

304 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

denly we understood that this was a tide-rip on to
which we were being carried. In a moment, with a
fearful crash, away blew sprit and sail, splashing and
dragging through the churned froth alongside till we
hauled the dripping mass aboard. What a fate to
have rushed blindly with such velocity into the centre
of this lesser Chary bdis ! Our speed was considerably
reduced, but we continued to drive steadily ahead at
a rapid pace into the struggling currents. The band
of white foam had to be crossed at some point, and
beyond it a similar band was visible, like an advancing
column. Great trunks of trees seemed to be moving
like vessels through the surge, with independent
motions of their own against the gale. Long, yellow,
water-worn logs, whose touch meant death, almost
scraped the sides of the canoe as George and I rowed
hard to avoid them. Many dangers were concealed
under the boiling surface, and occasionally some mass
of wood, whose specific gravity caused it to float deep,
was heaved up, and thus stretched out its senseless
branches as if to grasp us or beckon us below. How
hard we must have rowed was felt afterwards by its
effects. At the same time I noticed, amidst the loud
roaring caused by the waves, the peculiar choking or
gulping sound of the smaller whirlpools. We were
in the midst of what, on a larger scale, is observed in
the centre of a typhoon which has raised heavy
opposing seas running in different directions. We
were tossed about wildly, with abrupt irregular move-
ments, but, owing to the excellent qualities of these

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 305

large canoes, very little water was shipped except in
the shape of spray, and we soon found ourselves in
comparative stillness, but drifting rapidly until we
reached the beach. At the edge of 'the trees, along
the narrow margin above high water, stood two
wooden Indian houses rudely constructed of logs; the
mountains rose immediately in rear. A grand-looking
old Indian came out to welcome us, the first human
creature we had encountered for several days. In the
second hut, which was empty, George and Jack
located themselves, and immediately made a huge fire
of driftwood to dry our things, the owners seeming
to have departed in order to attend the annual Indian
meetings which take place on the mainland in June.

The old Indian who had assisted us to land soon
reappeared with an enormous tin basin filled with ripe
red salmon berries (I believe a peculiarity of the
Pacific coast, resembling a cross between a raspberry
and a blackberry), which the men proceeded to devour.
He also offered us a bright crimson or blood-coloured
fish, weighing 51b., shaped like a rock cod. The best
time was approaching for trolling in the bay for
salmon. The old man and his squaw had already
embarked in a small and very dilapidated dug-out
canoe, and were hauling in some lines. Meantime, I
prepared a spoon bait, and we dragged another little
canoe, which was lying above high water, down the
skids, the larger one being too weighty, and embarked.
Jack steered, but George, in place of a paddle, took a
fiat piece of wood about the same length, having the

x

306 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

lower half of one of the edges set with a row of pointed

nails at intervals of one inch apart, with which he

made deep rapid strokes almost like paddling, and

having a similar effect in propelling the canoe. Every

third or fourth stroke a small herring would be found

impaled on one of the spikes. Many of them were

leaping from the water like morsels of animated silver

as though they were endeavouring to escape from

some enemy which was pursuing them. As I had

dragged the spoon among them for some time with

about thirty yards of line out without anything

happening, I removed it and substituted a fresh

herring. Before very many yards of the line had

been extended with this new bait attached, some

powerful fish seized it, which, judging by the fierce,

quick rushes that followed, must have been a salmon

of 251b. weight. Before the men could stop the whole

of my line was run out, and I discovered, on reeling

in, that the fish had gone off with the flight and a

portion of the trace. Unfortunately, this was the

only tackle of that description I happened to have

brought, not anticipating much angling ; so the only

resort left was the spoon bait, but the Indians were

tired with the day's work, and we soon gave up.

Meanwhile the old Indian and his kloochman or

squaw had been much more successful with rough

tackle and without any rod, for in their canoe lay two

salmon, the largest of which looked 201b. I naturally

requested permission to examine the thing which had

thus worsted my more artful products of civilisation,

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 307

and I herewith present the secret to future anglers in
British Columbia, although it includes no special
originality of device. A lead of about 71b. weight, or
so heavy that no ordinary fishing-rod could have
supported it, was fastened to the line at a distance of
three yards from the bait. The line itself was an
exceedingly thick, strong, black article, resembling,
but not actually consisting of, the kelp or bladder-
weed lines used by Indians farther north, and was
sixty or seventy yards in length. At the extremity
was a single large, strong hook, and attached by
another short line six inches in length was a spoon-
shaped piece of bright metal of moderate size, sus-
pended so as to fall just short of the hook without
overlapping it, and with a strong swivel. In Swiss
lakes and some deep lakes in the Eocky Mountains
large lake trout are captured in a somewhat similar
manner. In exchange for a plateful of tea and one of
sugar both the fish became mine, and fatter or more
luscious salmon never passed the lips of tired voyagers.
The place was, of course, infested with a hungry
score of the usual type of Indian dog, which is not
usually found, however, where there are any white
settlers. In this case the Indian is obliged to keep a
more stylish or high-toned class of dog. The white
man finds the Indian dog with his queer ways insup-
portable. Here we found ourselves besieged by
quarrelsome, yellow, deformed, wolf-like creatures, as
impudent as Pariahs, and as cunning as the dogs of
Turkey.

x 2

308 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

Next morning the weather cleared, and while
George packed the large canoe, Jack and I took
another turn after the salmon. The powerful move-
ment outside was causing a current in the bay to circle
round and round like a huge vortex, gathering into
its centre a large quantity of floating timber, while
the time of day and the state of the tide were not
suitable for salmon-fishing, or the old man and his
kloochman would surely have been on the water. I
had succeeded in capturing two sea-fish of different
kinds, unhappily not salmon, and was about to
give the order to return to camp to resume our
journey southwards. Jack, under the drowsy influ-
ence of the fine weather, was working his paddle with
the smallest possible necessary expenditure of exertion,
when in a moment he became transformed from a
semi-civilised Indian into a wildly excited savage.
"With one of the subdued yells he was accustomed
to give vent to on certain occasions, with black eyes
gleaming and features contorted and flushed at the
sight of some object, he suddenly commenced to urge
the canoe seawards with powerful strokes, that caused
the frail thing to rock fearfully from side to side, and
made me reflect upon capsizing. The fact was that with
his splendid eyesight, of which I had many proofs, Jack
had spied, far, far out over the tumbling waters, the
twin black points which meant the head of a swimming
deer. The deer we had previously killed swimming
had been found while we were sailing not many miles
to the northwards, but much nearer the centre of the

AMONGST THE WILD GOATS OF THE CASCADES. 309

channel away from shore. As an extra incentive now
to exertion was the fact that the last of our meat was
" done finish," as Sambo would have said. So my line
was quickly reeled in and the rod laid aside, and turn-
ing with some caution, so as to avoid overturning the
unsteady little craft, I seized another paddle, and we
gained rapidly upon our quarry. Making interroga-
tive signs to Jack that I had no rifle, I pointed to a
piece of rope. In answer he pointed to a piece of
wood lying before him, and I knew thereby that he
intended to strike the animal on the head until he
should have stunned it. Just then I noticed another
canoe shooting out from land, furiously propelled by
George and the old Indian, who may have seen the
animal first, but had considerably farther to paddle.
As we approached it the deer plunged madly and,
swerving, we overshot our mark ; but soon after
Jack managed to seize it firmly by the hide, and the
struggle commenced, while I threw my whole weight
as a counter-balance on the opposite side of the canoe.
The animal kept towing us round and round, the
Indian all the while raining a succession of fierce rapid
blows upon its head, which caused it to succumb just
as the rival canoe came up.

A EIDE TO TEHEEAN IN 1888.

Baku— Rough Weather on the Caspian— Oil Wells— Start from Tiflis for the
Persian Frontier — Various Adventures on the Way — Mount Ararat
— Ride to Tabreez — A curious City — On Horseback to Casvin — Poison-
ous Bugs — Teheran — Sir Drummond Wolff— Tales about the Shah,
and Sport round Teheran.

AFTER quitting Sevastopol, where the Eussians were
practising with heavy guns, our steamer skirted the
coast of the Crimea. As one proceeds, the character
of the country undergoes a complete transformation.
Bare plains give place to mountains rising abruptly
from the sea, which shut back the cold north winds.
"We have reached the Eiviera of Eussia, in which Yalta
takes the place of Nice or Cannes.

The main chain of the Caucasus trends away inland,
and after passing Poti we came to our destination at
Batoum, both rather insalubrious places. Here I was
delighted to find George Curzon on his way home
from Central Asia, and to make the acquaintance of
our only consul in Transcaucasia, who is said to be a
perfect mine of information on things connected with
Eussia, and than whom, when he is not suffering
from the climate, there is no more ardent devotee of
the chase ; and also the author of a book upon sport
and travel in the Crimea, lately returned from search-
ing amongst the great snow-peaks of the Caucasus
for traces of Messrs. "W. F. Donkin, Harry Fox, and
the guides, Streich and Fischer, supposed to have

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 311

been lost about September 1st, on the Ullu-auz
glacier.

Next morning I left by the new railway connecting
the Black and Caspian Seas. The scenery is delight-
ful ; and on the succeeding day at three in the after-
noon the train entered Baku, or Bawkoo. Owing to
the expected journey of the Tsar and Tsarina the
line was guarded for a distance of many hundred
miles by soldiers, camped alongside the track in di-
minutive tentes d^abri^ to the number of one every
hundred yards.

Naphtha had previously been sprinkled between
the rails in order to keep the dust from annoying
the Imperial party, and of this we had the advantage.

As we steamed into the station the Imperial train
was just steaming out on the way to visit the natural
fire temple of the ancient fire- worshippers at Sul-
hakhane, which had been "arranged" in its ancient
style with some Parsees specially imported for the
occasion. Wonderful was the crowd which thronged
the streets ; the rich rank odour of petroleum, as
might be expected, pervaded everything; Eussian
officers and officials of every grade in uniform ; Geor-
gians and Transcaucasians in picturesque attire, with
long hair, several daggers in the belt, and a row of
ammunition pockets across the breast; Turkomans
with great sheepskin bonnets ; and Persians in tall
black lambswool hats. In the evening the town was
illuminated, the letters A M being almost the sole
and universal design. The only bed I could obtain

312 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

consisted of a table in a restaurant, on which I was
allowed to sleep on payment of a rouble ; and next
day, at noon, I left in a small steamer for Enzeli, the
chief Persian port on the Caspian ; and thirty hours
later we found ourselves at anchor off the port in
about five fathoms of water, and rolling heavily. The
weather continued so unpleasant that it was impos-
sible to communicate with the shore, and on the fourth
day I found myself, to my disgust, once more in
Baku.

This gave me an opportunity of visiting the naphtha
springs or petroleum wells and refineries which have
called this ugly place into existence and rendered it
the chief port of the Caspian. The whole district
is one bare sandy waste, varied by a few low hills.
About five miles distant, which I drove in a carriage,
is seen a cluster or forest of tall, black, sugarloaf-
shaped erections, four hundred in number. These are
the wooden coverings over each of the celebrated
wells which supply half Asia with mineral oil. A
few gush of their own accord, but most of them con-
sist of a narrow shaft up which the oil is lifted in a
long bucket shaped like a torpedo. Across the surface
of the desert are seen hundreds of black pipes, like
iron arteries of the earth's blood, conveying the oil to
Baku, where it is refined and shipped to the Volga or
railed to Batoum.

Thence I retraced my steps to Tiflis, the Trans-
caucasian capital, where I remained for some days,
completing my preparations for a ride of over one

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 313

thousand miles to Teheran, and thence to the Caspian.
I was told that the chief attraction of Tiflis was to
see the various peculiar costumes of the inhabitants ;
in this I was disappointed. I found the variety of
costumes was not great.

Tiflis lies in a narrow valley on both banks of the
river Kur, between hills bare of trees ; by climb-
ing one of which I obtained a view of some of the
snow-covered ranges of the Caucasus in the far
distance, including I think Kasbek. In the centre of
Tiflis rises a steep narrow ridge on which are the
ruins of an ancient castle, and below it are the
Botanical Gardens and the celebrated hot springs and
baths from which it takes its name, of which formerly
Christians were not allowed to make use. No restric-
tions exist with regard to shooting, but one has to go
some distance from Tiflis in order to obtain any. To
bring a gun into Eussia is generally a work of art,
and it is advisable to obtain a permission from the
Eussian Embassy in London in order to avoid delay.
But with regard to taking guns into Persia, this is
impossible from the northern frontier ; they must be
sent round to Bushire in the Persian Gulf and directed
to some one in Teheran.

Having bought a fur cap and long goafs-hair boots
covering the knees, and procured the necessary police
order for horses, I left by the night train for Akstaf ha,
a station about seventy miles east of Tiflis, from which
point. the journey by horses is commenced, and im-
mediately on my arrival at midnight made my way

314 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

with my luggage to the stantsiya, or post station, and
slept the remainder of the night on one of the wooden
plank beds with which such places are always pro-
vided. I omitted, however, to register my name for
horses, so that travellers who arrived later were
preferred before me in the matter of starting in the
morning ; and when I did try to register, the rude
yamshtchik gave me to understand that there was no
ticket for me. Fortunately I noticed two Turks,
amongst the travellers present, who spoke French, and
with their assistance I was able to call the fellow to
account, by which means we struck up an acquain-
tance and they subsequently travelled with me as far
as Tabreez, their destination in Persia. We were
then bundled into a kind of covered waggonette, and
though we failed to have each the number of horses
to which we were entitled, yet we gained the advan-
tage, for several stations, of springs to our vehicle,
which the common troika is without. The dust was
excessive, which remark held good of the whole
journey as far as the Araxes. After passing two
Eussian regiments on the march towards the frontier,
we quitted the plain and entered a beautifully wooded,
hilly, and picturesque country. A change of horses
occurred every ten miles, when we emerged from the
conveyance perfectly white with dust, and glad to
stretch our cramped limbs and take a glass of tchai, or
tea, which is always ready, together with a brass urn
or samovar. By sunset we had accomplished four
distances and reached Delijan (72 versts), a Eussian

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 315

military post, where a regiment was camped. Thence
we proceeded in a much more uncomfortable fashion,
namely, in a large troika resembling a boat in shape,
innocent of possessing any springs or seats, and in
which we reclined gracefully upon our luggage.

A Persian having joined the party, we next crossed
a pass 7,125 ft. in height by an excellent Eussian
military road, and stopped for the night just beyond
the summit at a place called Semiyonofka, in a
station-house of the usual type, with plank beds, table
and samovar for the entire furniture. The Persian
gentleman seemed not to be charmed with our com-
pany, as he left us surreptitiously during the night
and continued the journey by himself, and in the
morning we found him not. He literally thereby
" stole a march " upon the Turks and myself and
secured the choice of horses at the post stations ahead
of us. But eventually we overtook and brought him
to account for his conduct. He generally chose a time
for his prayers in the evening when we were engaged
in some noisy discussion, and repeated them with the
peculiar genuflections and gestures of the Sunni sect,
in as loud a voice as possible.

The Turks invariably pretended not to be aware
that our sly friend was performing his devotions,
which he did in an aggressive manner, and each party
appeared to be trying to shout the other down. He
generally made a mistake as to the true direction of
the Kaaba at Mecca, though he might easily have
ascertained it by looking at the stars, but once or

316 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

twice referred to my compass, which I carried in a
noticeable position.

At sunrise the view of Lake Gotchka burst upon us
as we gradually descended towards it, and the Turks
in ecstasies shouted out " Therapia, Therapia," declar-
ing it resembled the Bosphorus ; like the ten thousand
Greeks when they shouted "Thalassa" at sight of
the ocean after their retreat from Persia. This large
and noble-looking sheet of water abounds with trout.
One of apparently ten pounds' weight was brought to
us at the village of Elenof ka for sale, thickly spotted
with black markings. Half a mile from shore, upon
a small island, stands the monastery of Sevan, where
quarters can be obtained. The houses, as one travels
south and approaches Persia, have more of mud and
less of stone in their construction, till at length one
finds them built entirely of the former. The numbers
of tame geese here was perfectly enormous, tens of
thousands of these birds were to be seen along the
shore of the lake. I was now in Armenia.

Erivan, the capital of Armenia, was four stages
distant, the three intervening stations being named
Nijni Akty, Suhaya Fontanka, and Eiljarskaya.
Chiefly noticeable, as we proceeded, was the splendid
military road the Eussians are making to the Persian
frontier. The whole of the inhabitants of the sur-
rounding country seemed to have been collected
together for the purpose of breaking stones, heaps of
which, carefully measured, lay alongside the track
for miles and miles. I noticed also that when piling

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 317

up the broken stone into heaps of the requisite size
they sometimes formed the centre of the heap with
earth when the Eussian overseer was not at hand to
observe this imposition.

Once we met a large number of either prisoners
or conscripts, some in chains, guarded by a company
of Eussian soldiers. On our left rose an extinct
volcano of remarkable dome-like shape, crowned with
snow and encircled by a number of lesser pinnacles,
and on our right as we approached Erivan lay the
splendid peak called Alagos -(13,400 ft.), covered
with snow. But these mountains were dwarfed by
Mount Ararat (17,212 ft.), which lay immediately in
front of us upon the farther side of the river Araxes ;
and soon we saw the city of Erivan lying below us in
the dusk, down in the broad flat valley of the river,
which lay stretched out, green and shining with the
abundant moisture of irrigation as far as the base of
the great volcano. The scene formed a remarkable
contrast to the country through which we had passed
since Lake Gotchka. Never was beheld a more
magnificent scene. Afterwards we tired of the sight
of Ararat day after day. Never was atmosphere so
clear yet so full of colour. On one side the eye
could pierce for full one hundred miles into Asia
Minor, and on the other equally far into Persia,
while behind and around us lay the fairest lands in
Armenia. The bare earth took on it a tinge of
crimson and mauve, while all the little depressions
were filled with clear purple shadows, and wherever

318 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

there was irrigation there arose groves of vivid green
poplars.

I found Erivan to be a large town, the houses built
in European style, with carriages plying for hire, and
inns of very moderate pretentious.

Next morning we resumed our journey towards the
Persian frontier, which we reached four days later
after travelling as fast as possible, and on two occa-
sions for several hours after the sun had set. Deli-
cious grapes were everywhere to be had, as well as
eggs, tea, bread, and fowls.

On the other hand, the road was perfectly atrocious,
though in places the Eussians had already commenced
work upon it. I am not exaggerating when I affirm
that the dust was over a foot in depth in places. It
was also generally more or less covered with stones
and boulders of all sizes, which it is nobody's business
to remove. On several occasions we experienced
delay owing to want of horses, more especially at the
large village of Nakhechevan, where we were detained
six hours ; and, finally, finding that horses were not
forthcoming by sunset, we wrote in the post-book a
long complaint in Eussian, or rather an Armenian
gentleman, on his way to Tabreez, who had joined us,
did so, following the example of several previous
travellers.

On the morning of the eighth day we crossed the
river Araxes in a kind of large punt, and I set foot,
for the first time, in Persia.

Our passports had first to be stamped, for which

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 319

purpose we handed them in through a hole in the wall
to a rather effeminate-looking Persian, with long black
hair coiled under his lambswool hat, sitting on a
carpet; and after tea, eggs and fruit, with the inevit-
able but indispensable samovar, the use of which is
as general in Persia as in Eussia, I set off to over-
take my baggage which had been sent on in charge
of a post-boy, the Armenian accompanying me and
carrying his own saddle-bags on his own horse.
The path followed the course of a torrent, passing a
number of clear springs of good drinking water, and
by sunset we had completed the first of the four
stages of twenty-five miles each, which separated us
from Tabreez. In Persia the only buildings which
a traveller enters while on the road are the post-
stations, the general plan of which never varies much,
and consists of stables for the horses built round three,
or sometimes two sides of a square yard, which is
entered through a large gateway ; the whole being
surrounded by a high wall and roughly fashioned of
mud, which becomes very hard when dry. The room
or rooms for travellers are generally over, or on each
side of this gateway, and are also entirely of mud, but
generally have glass windows. There is an excess
rather than a deficiency of ventilation, as the doors
rarely close properly, and a few panes are usually
missing from the window. A samovar of boiling water
is ready whenever one happens to arrive, as Persians
are constantly drinking tea, like Eussians ; and eggs,
milk, and bread are always procurable. The worst

320 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

feature by far of this kind of travel in Persia is the
description of horses supplied, overworked, under-
fed, and invariably with sore backs, and which can
never be induced to move unless the rider holds one
of the huge Persian lashes in his hand. I was now
travelling with the mail, the disadvantages of which
soon became apparent. If I had been alone I could
have started and stopped whenever I wished, but now
I had to wait the good pleasure of the chapar-ridex or
postman. After a carpet had been spread' and we had
done a vast amount of tea-drinking and had smoked
the kalian (the hubble-bubble or narghileh of Persia),
that functionary gave orders for the fresh horses to
be saddled and packed, but it was long after dark
before we started. Generally a Persian will not smoke
the same kalian as a Christian, but at these post-
stations they are not so particular, and will even drink
out of the same cup, though I have seen a valuable
Italian ceremoniously and ostentatiously smashed to
pieces with sticks, out of which a Christian had
ventured to take a puff.

The next stage took us five hours, at a most
uncomfortable jog-trot, and we reached Mairand at
one o'clock at night thoroughly tired out. During
the latter part it rained, and the darkness was of
the most intense and inky blackness. The horse
carrying my baggage was driven on ahead, riderless,
some animals being instinctively good road-finders ;
it was closely followed by the post-boy, who kept on
singing or talking so that those behind might be able

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 321

to follow the sound. An armed guard brought up
the rear. Mairand is a large village scattered over
a well-irrigated plain, consisting of the usual flat-
roofed mud houses, each with its own garden and
enclosed orchard, producing splendid fruits in the
season. Starting early we accomplished the remain-
ing two stages and entered Tabreez before sundown
next day.

Only one incident worth mentioning occurred on
the way which was, to me, of a very amusing
character. The Armenian gentleman who was my
fellow-traveller had come straight out from Paris,
and was " got up " regardless of expense. In a hat-
box was a new grey hat, for the safety of which he
was particularly anxious. As we were crossing a
broad stony torrent-bed the baggage-horse slipped,
and finally fell down and broke the precious hat-
box, but without doing any damage to the contents.
However, the Armenian immediately attacked the
post-boy with his heavy Persian lash, and the sight
of these two men belabouring each other with a rain
of blows in the midst of a vast, treeless, rocky desert
was a very peculiar one.

"We made the final stage into Tabreez at a gallop,
across a wide plain, with Urmia, the great salt lake,
in sight upon our right.

Tabreez is a very curious and fanatical place, far
more so than Teheran and other cities farther south,
yet foreigners or Christians are quite safe, and sub-
jected to no more annoyance than the fact of being

Y

322 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

stared at in the streets. There are practically no
police, yet disturbances or robberies are very rare.
The climate is so cool that the Persians here are
much less sallow than those of Teheran, and the
children have pretty, rosy faces. No tourists ever
come to this old-world city of Tabreez, and there is
no hotel ; and only a Persian can set foot in a Persian
house. However, I was most hospitably received
by two English merchants and their wives named
Stevens.

I had covered the final hundred miles in twenty-
eight hours, using a Persian saddle. After several
— I should fear to say how many — cups of tea, so
delicious that they seemed to have been lightly
earned at the expense of the fatigue from which I was
suffering, I was informed that the whole of a large
Armenian kammam next door had been reserved for
me, prescribed under these circumstances as the best
of recuperators. These institutions, picturing those
of ancient Eome, unrivalled in their oriental luxuri-
ance, are entered through swinging doors, each
chamber being slightly hotter than the last, leading
into a great hall which the light enters in a subdued
form through a multitude of star-like apertures in
the dome, and filled with warm vapour. In the
centre is a marble raised dais and at the four corners
are chambers with smaller domes.

It is perfectly astounding what an amount of lather
one man can produce almost instantaneously, simply
by means of a long bag and a morsel of the indispens-

A EIDE TO TEHERAN TN 1888. 323

able soap, in a manner which I never beheld else-
where; from which one emerges as Aphrodite did
from the sea-foam at Paphos on the west coast of
Cyprus.

English goods still hold the market, it is satis-
factory to know, and I saw many courtyards or
caravanserais in Tabreez piled high with English
bales brought from Trebizond on the backs of camels,
horses, mules or donkeys, notwithstanding the proxi-
mity of Kussia, the difficulties she has laid in the
way of English commerce with Persia, and the inland
situation of Tabreez, though not long ago Eussia
allowed English goods to pass free of duty. By
means of this route from Trebizond our goods now
never enter Eussian territory. Many Persians who
owed them thousands of pounds were pointed out to
me by the Stevens, which they were never likely to
see. Yet their business is lucrative in the long run.
The Blue Mosque, which is a beautiful ruin with
remains of exquisite blue enamelled tiles, and the
citadel, are the only sights to be visited in Tabreez.

Near Tabreez rises a mountain of a golden colour,
owing to the earth of which it is made, and a thin
growth on it of a kind of grass. Immediately behind
it rises a higher one of a rose-red colour, forming a
remarkable contrast to the hill in front. In Persia
a landscape of this character is frequently observed,
and without a single tree in sight.

Of small game, wild pigeons and partridges are
the most numerous round Tabreez; wherever there

Y 2

324 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

are marshes (which, except in the south, is seldom)
snipe and duck are to be found. A few bears are to
be shot in the mountains round Lake Urmia, and
what are called ibex on the highest peaks. Gazelles
and lions are confined to the south ; the latter are not
numerous, notwithstanding Colonel St. John's adven-
ture, and the fact that a lion figures on the Persian
standard. The sport round Teheran and on the shores
of the Caspian is of a different kind.

In order to reach Teheran, the capital, I now had to
ride ninety-two farasahks, or three hundred and sixty -
eight miles, and then to drive one hundred miles in
rough springless carts, changing horses at the chapar
Ichanehs at each fifteen to twenty -five miles. At the
first station, named Saidabad, they gave me the best
horses of any I used, either before or after, during the
entire journey ; their paces were so lively that in a
short time my saddle-bags parted into two, and after
stopping to repair them we reached the next station-
house just before dusk, where I resolved to pass the
night.

This building was like most of the other chapar
khanehs, or post-stations. Excepting the Shah's
palaces in Teheran and a few other buildings, mosques
and baths, houses in Persia are constructed entirely
and solely of mud, which becomes quite hard ; but the
roofs, which are flat, are supported by light beams.
In this post-station, as in many others, the small room
for travellers was built upon the roof, several panes of
glass were missing, the door refused to remain entirely

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 325

closed, and it was cold, windy weather ; the situation
was exceedingly uncomfortable. Presently a wood
fire was lighted and a quantity of eggs and flat
Persian bread brought up and a samovar of boiling
water. In other places I frequently also was able to
procure milk, mutton, grapes, and pomegranates.
Under such chilly, draughty circumstances I should
have passed a sleepless night if I had not fortunately
been possessed of a fur sleeping-bag, eight feet in
length, made of opossum skin, impervious alike to cold
and to the attacks of insects. At two towns I passed
through on horseback, named Meana and Mazari,
there was said to exist a species of poisonous bug ;
though what ill effects its bite produced I never was
able to discover, as the accounts given me were quite
at variance. These insects are found at many other
places in Persia, at which I took care not to sleep ;
always pushing on even after dark, if necessary, as
far as the next post- station. At one of these towns
Colonel Bell, E.E., of the Indian Intelligence Depart-
ment, with whom I travelled after leaving Teheran,
expressed a desire to see one of these celebrated
creatures and have ocular proof of their existence;
so a man was dispatched in search and in a few
moments returned with a poisonous bug in his hand.
It resembled an ordinary one, excepting that it pos-
sessed a hard horny carapace like a tortoise, from
beneath which a number of sharp claws radiated. It
was a most horrible and repulsive creature.

I rode from Tabreez to Casvin in six days, mostly

326 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

at a gallop, being in the saddle from sunrise to sunset,
except once when I continued until past midnight
as it was raining hard, and I was afraid least some
of the streams I had to ford should become impass-
able before morning.

It would be impossible to give a full and connected
account of the journey without introducing the names
of the posting - stations, the distances, and other
details. I shall therefore merely enumerate briefly
the chief incidents characteristic of Persian travel.
There are no roads in Persia excepting round Teheran.
The path after leaving Tabreez is entirely strewn
with stones, which it is everybody's, and consequently
nobody's, business to remove, and so they have lain
there since the days of Cyrus. I also passed a chain
of deep wells connected by passages, of which the
mouths of some were situated in the track of caravans
and quite unprotected, though night- travel is an
ordinary thing, and the bones of animals which had
fallen into these death-traps could be seen deep down
below, washed by a stream which supplies Tabreez.

A society for preventing cruelty to animals (like
the one in the island of Crete, which is so successful
amidst difficulties) would find a colossal work to be
done in Persia. The camels seemed to have a happier
time of it than the mules and donkeys.

On more than one occasion before sunrise I met a
caravan of over five hundred camels marching in
strings of twenty, laden with goods for Tabreez and
Trebizond. The first and last camels of each string

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 327

had attached to them a great copper bell. Such a
meeting in the early morning in the great desert
plains of Persia is most impressive, with the distant
clanging of the bells becoming louder as they ap-
proach, and the ]ong unending rows of great beasts
stealing past with outstretched necks on their long
journey to the shores of the Black Sea. Some of the
drivers were asleep on mules in motion, in the most
wonderful attitudes, because nothing was discernible
to indicate a human being on the animal's back except
a shapeless heap, from each side of which a leg pro-
jected downwards.

I had written out a vocabulary of useful words, but
beyond this was quite ignorant of the language, which
fact I found was really an advantage. At each
station I required fresh horses and a post-boy, or
chagird, to take them back again. This person fre-
quently fancied all the armed men we passed to be
robbers, and if any suspicious-looking individual
accosted me, what could I do but make signs that I
was deaf or unable to understand, and what could a
robber do with such an unpracticable victim ? And
so I travelled perfectly unmolested, though alone.
But there was another advantage in not being able
to speak Persian, for on reaching a posting- station I
could enter the stable and point to the two best-
looking horses it contained. The best are not wil-
lingly brought forth, and never before the poorest
animals have first been offered. But the persuasions
of the chapar bashi fell upon deaf ears. The stream

328 TEAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

of words was without effect and the desired horses
were saddled. (Moral — when you travel take good
care to be ignorant of the language of the country.)
The Persian lash for horses is the severest and most
formidable instrument of the kind I have ever seen.
Usually the post-horses will not move unless you have
one. But it is not necessary to use it. Possession
suffices.

I spent the fourth night after leaving Tabreez at
the large town of Zingan, which I reached after dark,
riding for miles through its closed and deserted
bazaars like railway tunnels. It is celebrated for
its fruit and for its enormous onions. The next
station is Sultanieh, on a flat plain said to be the
coldest in Persia. The Shah has a summer palace
here, and there is a ruined mosque or tomb, visible
for an enormous distance.

On the evening of the sixth day I rode into the
large town of Casvin, where a fine hotel has been
built by the government for the accommodation of
travellers. There is no such thing as this hotel even
at the capital, and it is the only one of the kind I
found in Persia. Here I remained a day to rest. A
road has been made from here to Teheran, a distance
of one hundred miles, across a flat plain along the base
of a high mountain range, of which the highest point
is Demavend, close to Teheran itself. And what a
road ! Covered with stones and boulders of all sizes,
varied by holes and an occasional ditch for irriga-
tion.

A EIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 329

I started at eight in the evening in a boat-shaped
vehicle with a hood, in which I lay full length on
a quantity of hay. The jolts and concussions were
terrible, and the cold excessively piercing, especially
in the early morning.

The Persian capital is finely situated on a wide
plain protected by mountains, amongst which towers
the volcano Demavend (20,000 ft.). Towards the
south there is nothing to obstruct the view across
the yellow desert till the horizon becomes indistinct
through the mere immensity of distance in the direc-
tion of Ispahan. If it were not hidden by a low
range of hills, one might see the lake which suddenly
appeared seven years ago, called Hawz i Sultan Kavir,
thirty -five miles distant from Teheran, and twenty-
five miles in length. It is supposed by the Persians
to be the Lake Savah, which was situated thereabouts
and disappeared on the night Mohammed was born.
Before reaching the gates of the city I met several
parties of wealthy Persians apparently setting out
in search of sport with guns and dogs, and some with
hawks, probably in search of bustard, of which there
are a few on the plains around.

Two days later, having seen many of the curious
sights of the city, I made myself known at the
British Legation, and remained there on the kind
invitation of our Minister and Lady Drummond
Wolff during the remainder of my stay.

Sport around Teheran is almost entirely reserved
for His Majesty. A special drive, however, for ibex

330 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

and wild goat had just been arranged for the benefit
of Colonel the Hon. E. Talbot, my fellow-traveller as
far as Enzeli, as he had been in command of the
Shah's escort of cavalry during His Majesty's visit
to England in 1874. He was also accorded an
audience, and was presented by His Majesty with a
gold coin after the usual custom. But it seems that
the Persians in charge of these preserves were not
willing to disturb the ground, and the whole affair
would have been a promenade or mere pretence had
it not been for the expostulations of Mr. Churchill,
the British Consul ; and in the end, though no
wild goats were killed, yet a large number were
seen.

Travel, except near the city, must be done on
horseback. In Teheran, since 1850, the use of car-
riages has been introduced, and now no Persian noble-
man's establishment is complete without one. But
there is another thing without which no Persian
nobleman's establishment is complete, and that is a
pig. Mohammed, copying from the Jewish religion,
made the pig an unclean animal. But yet a Swiss
merchant makes quite a handsome income selling pigs
to the Persians, which are kept in the stables as scape-
goats ; the diseases which the horses might have had
are supposed to pass away into the pigs. Then he
buys them back and makes bacon of them for the
foreigners.

There is a carriageable road for five miles south, to
the mosque of Shah Abdul Azim, where the debtors

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 331

and evil-doers of the capital fly for refuge from the
law, and most of the inhabitants, including the Shah,
make a weekly pilgrimage thither. The dome of this
mosque is covered with gold. A railway has been
built to this place from Teheran, five miles in length,
the money having been partly provided, I believe, by
a Belgian company. A week before I arrived in
Teheran a boy accidentally fell out of a carriage and
was run over, and the stupid and fanatical population
thinking the European engine-driver had done it on
purpose, set upon him with sticks and stones. He
defended himself and managed to reach the ticket
office of one of the stations, and threw all the money
he had in his pockets to the crowd, as a sop to
Cerberus. Finally he was obliged to draw his re-
volver, and killed two Persians with it. When I left,
he was lying under the care of some Eoman Catholic
sisters of mercy, in a precarious condition. The mob
subsequently wrecked and burnt the station and car-
riages, so I was unable to travel to the Mosque of Shah
Abdul Azim on the only line of railway in all Persia.
The Shah had sixty of them bastinadoed on the soles
of the feet. Not so very long ago, before the con-
struction of the railway, the Shah was driving out to
this place. A general prevented some soldiers hand-
ing to His Majesty a petition for their pay. Thus
thwarted of their rights they threw some stones
intended for this officer, who told His Majesty
that the missiles were aimed at him. Whereat all
soldiers within sight, and all found upon the road

332 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES.

leading to the mosque, were promptly arrested, for
His Majesty was thoroughly alarmed. They were then
conveyed to the citadel and ordered to be summarily
executed. After the sentence had been carried out
upon eight of the prisoners the Prime Minister or
some other official got wind of these proceedings and
came flying down in time to stop any more of such
vindictive measures.

In the Persian capital the bazaars, the motley
crowds, and the Shah's treasury and palaces are the
only sights. The latter have exquisite gardens. The
water supply is abundant, and inside some of the
rooms fountains and running streams are found. Some
of the Persian horses, particularly those of the Im-
perial stud, are perfectly lovely animals. The Persians
are first-rate horsemen, but there are no national horse
races. The only ones His Majesty delights in are
those of rose-leaves thrown down one of the water-
courses in his palaces. The Shah takes queer fancies.
Some time ago the object was a white cat. It had a
special horse of its own, with a cage, of which the wires
were padded with velvet for fear lest any of its fur
should be injured. Soon it got lost; and " then the
trouble began." All the good-looking cats in Persia
were brought, but none of them was the right one.

Now the object of His Majesty's regard is the son of
one of his officers ; a child whom he has made Field
Marshal over the heads of all his veterans.

The climate is very peculiar. In April the spring
commences, the pleasantest part of the year, and lasts

A RIDE TO TEHERAN IN 1888. 333

till the middle of May. In the middle of April the
spring showers begin. In the end of May the weather
becomes warm and every one leaves Teheran and goes
into the mountains except those who can't afford to.
The hot weather continues till the end of August, and
is followed by a beautiful autumn which lasts till
December, after which snow sometimes falls.

THE END.

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volume. Cloth, £i is.

OLIVER TWIST. Separately. With Twenty-four Illustrations

by George Cruikshank. Cloth, us.

A TALE OF TWO CITIES. Separately. With Sixteen Illus-

trations by Phiz. Cloth, 95.
*^* The remainder of Dickens* s Works were not originally printed in demy &vo.

32

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.

LIBRARY EDITION.

In post 8vo. With the Original Illustrations, 30 -vols., cloth, £12.

PICKWICK PAPERS 43 Illustrns. , 2 vols.

NICHOLAS NICKLEBY 39

MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 40

OLD CURIOSITY SHOP & REPRINTED PIECES 36

BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIMES 36

BLEAK HOUSE 40

LITTLE DORRIT 40

DOMBEY AND SON 38

DAVID COPPERFIELD 38

OUR MUTUAL FRIEND 40

SKETCHES BY " BOZ " 39

OLIVER TWIST 24

CHRISTMAS BOOKS 17

A TALE OF TWO CITIES 16

GREAT EXPECTATIONS 8

PICTURES FROM ITALY & AMERICAN NOTES 8

UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER .'. 8

CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND 8

EDWIN DROOD and MISCELLANIES 12

CHRISTMAS STORIES from " Household Words," &c. 14
THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By JOHN FORSTER With Illustrations.
Uniform with this Edition. los. 6d.

A NEW EDITION OF ABOVE, WITH THE ORIGINAL ILLUSTRA-
TIONS, IN LARGE CROWN 8vo, 30 VOLS. IN SETS ONLY.

s.

d.

2 VOls.

16

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16

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16

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16

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16

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16

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16

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16

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2 VOlS.

16

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vol.

8

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vol.

8

o

vol.

8

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vol.

8

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vol.

8

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vol.

8

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8

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vol.

8

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vol.

8

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vol.

8

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THE "CHARLES DICKENS" EDITION.

In Crown 8vo. In 21 vols., cloth, with Illustrations, £j ids.

PICKWICK PAPERS ... . 8 Illustrations .,

MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 8

DOMBEY AND SON 8

NICHOLAS NICKLEBY , 8

DAVID COPPERFIELD 8

BLEAK HOUSE . 8

LITTLE DORRIT 8

OUR MUTUAL FRIEND 8

BARNABY RUDGE 8

OLD CURIOSITY SHOP 8

A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND 4

EDWIN DROOD and OTHER STORIES 8

CHRISTMAS STORIES, from " Household Words " ... 8

SKETCHES BY "BOZ" 8

AMERICAN NOTES and REPRINTED PIECES . 8

CHRISTMAS BOOKS

OLIVER TWIST

GREAT EXPECTATIONS

TALE OF TWO CITIES

HARD TIMES and PICTURES FROM ITALY

UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER

THE LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. Numerous Illustrations. 2 vol

THE LETTERS OF CHARLES DICKENS ...2 vols.

s. <i.

4 °

4 o

4 o

4 o

4 o

4 o

4 o
3 6
3 6

3 !

3 6

3 6

3 6

3 6

3 6

3 6

3 6

3 ^

5 o
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7 o

CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED. 33

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.

THE ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY EDITION.
(WITH LIFE.)

Complete in 32 Volumes. Demy 8vo, los. each ; or set, £16.

This Edition is printed on a finer paper and in a larger type than lias been
employed in any previous edition. The type has been cast especially for it, and
the page is of a size to admit of the introduction of all the original illustrations.

No such attractive issue has been made of the writings of Mr. Dickens, which,
various as have been the forms of publication adapted to the demands of an ever
widely-increasing popularity, have never yet been worthily presented in a really
handsome library form.

The collection comprises all the minor writings it was Mr. Dickens's wish to
preserve.

SKETCHES BY " BOZ." With 40 Illustrations by George Cruikshank.
PICKWICK PAPERS. 2 vols. With 42 Illustrations by Phiz.
OLIVER TWIST. With 24 Illustrations by Cruikshank.
NICHOLAS NICKLEBY. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phi/..
OLD CURIOSITY SHOP and REPRINTED PIECES. 2 vols. With Illus-
trations by Cattermole, &c.
BARNABY RUDGE and HARD TIMES. 2 vols. With Illustrations by

Cattermole, &c.

MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz.
AMERICAN NOTES and PICTURES FROM ITALY. i vol. With

8 Illustrations.

DOMBEY AND SON. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz.
DAVID COPPERFIELD. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz.
BLEAK HOUSE. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz.
LITTLE DORRIT. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Phiz.
A TALE OF TWO CITIES. With 16 Illustrations by Phiz.
THE UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone.
GREAT EXPECTATIONS. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone.
OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 2 vols. With 40 Illustrations by Marcus Stone.
CHRISTMAS BOOKS. With 17 Illustrations by Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A.,

Maclise, R.A., &c. &c.

HISTORY OF ENGLAND. With 8 Illustrations by Marcus Stone.
CHRISTMAS STORIES. (From "Household Words" and "All the Year

Round.") With 14 Illustrations.
EDWIN DROOD AND OTHER STORIES With 12 Illustrations by

S, L. Fildes.
LIFE OF CHARLES DICKENS. By John Forstcr. With Portraits. 2 vols.

(not separate.)

34 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.

THE POPULAR LIBRARY EDITION

OF THE WORKS OF

CHARLES DICKENS,

In 30 Vols. , large crown 8vo, price £6 ; separate Vols. 4^. each.

An Edition printed on good paper, each volume containing 16 full-page
Illustrations, selected from the Household Edition, on Plate Paper.

SKETCHES BY "BOZ."

PICKWICK. 2 vols.

OLIVER TWIST.

NICHOLAS NICKLEBY 2 vols.

MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT. 2 vols.

DOMBEY AND SON. 2 vols,

DAVID COPPERFIELD. 2 vols.

CHRISTMAS BOOKS.

OUR MUTUAL FRIEND. 2 vols.

CHRISTMAS STORIES.

BLEAK HOUSE. 2 vols.

LITTLE DORRIT. 2 vols.

OLD CURIOSITY SHOP AND REPRINTED PIECES. 2 vols

BARNABY RUDGE. 2 vols.

UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS.

TALE OF TWO CITIES.

CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND.

EDWIN DROOD AND MISCELLANIES.

PICTURES FROM ITALY AND AMERICAN NOTES.

CHAPMAN 6- HALL, LIMITED. 35

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.

HOUSEHOLD EDITION.

(WITH LIFE.)
In 22 Volumes. Crown ^to, cloth, £$ 8s. 6d.

MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT, with 59 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

DAVID COPPERFIELD, with 60 Illustrations and a Portrait, cloth, 53.

BLEAK HOUSE, with 61 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

LITTLE DORRIT, with 58 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

PICKWICK PAPERS, with 56 Illustrations, cloth, 55.

OUR MUTUAL FRIEND, with 58 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, with 59 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

DOMBEY AND SON, with 61 Illustrations, cloth, 53.

EDWIN DROOD ; REPRINTED PIECES ; and other Stories, with 30 Illustra-
tions, cloth, 53.

THE LIFE OF DICKENS. BY JOHN FORSTER. With 40 Illustrations. Cloth, 55.

BARNABY RUDGE, with 46 Illustrations, cloth, 4s.

OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, with 32 Illustrations, cloth, 43.

CHRISTMAS STORIES, with 23 Illustrations, cloth, 43.

OLIVER TWIST, with 28 Illustrations, cloth, 33.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS, with 26 Illustrations, cloth, 33.

SKETCHES BY "BOZ," with 36 Illustrations, cloth, 33.

UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER, with 26 Illustrations, cloth, 33.

CHRISTMAS BOOKS, with 28 Illustrations, cloth, 35.

THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND, with 15 Illustrations, cloth, 33.

AMERICAN NOTES and PICTURES FROM ITALY, with 18 Illustrations
cloth, 33.

A TALE OF TWO CITIES, with 25 Illustrations, cloth, 35.
HARD TIMES, with 20 Illustrations, cloth, 2s. 6d.

36 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.

THE CABINET EDITION.

In 32 vols. small fcap. 8vo, Marble Paper Sides, Cloth Backs, with uncut
edges, price Eighteenpence each.

Each Volume contains Eight Illustrations reproduced from the Originals.

CHRISTMAS BOOKS.

MARTIN CHUZZLEVVIT, Two Vols.

DAVID COPPERFIELD, Two Vols.

OLIVER TWIST.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS.

NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, Two Vo!s.

SKETCHES BY "BOZ."

CHRISTMAS STORIES.

THE PICKWICK PAPERS, Two Vols.

BARNABY RUDGE, Two Vols.

BLEAK HOUSE, Two Vols.

AMERICAN NOTES AND PICTURES FROM ITALY.

EDWIN DROOD; AND OTHER STORIES.

THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, Two Vols.

A CHILD'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND

DOM BEY AND SON, Two Vols.

A TALE OF TWO CITIES.

LITTLE DORRIT, Two Vols.

MUTUAL FRIEND, Two Vcls.

HARD TIMES.

UNCOMMERCIAL TRAVELLER.

REPRINTED PIECES.

NEW & CHEAP ISSUE OF THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS.

In Pocket Volumes.

PICKWICK PAPERS, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s.
NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s.
OLIVER TWIST, with 8 Illustrations, cloth,!. is.
SKETCHES BY " BOZ," with 8 Illustrations, cloth, is.
OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, 2s.
BARNABY RUDGE, with 16 Illustrations, cloth, 2s.
AMERICAN NOTES AND PICTURES FROM ITALY, with

8 Illustrations, cloth, is. 6d.

CHRISTMAS BOOKS, with 8 Illustrations, cloth, is. 6d.
MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT, with 8 Illustrations, 2s.

CHAPMAN &* HALL, LIMITED. 37

DICKENS'S (CHARLES) WORKS.— Continued.
MR. DICKENS'S READINGS-

Fcap. 8vo, sewed.

CHRISTMAS CAROL IN PROSE, is.
CRICKET ON THE HEARTH, is.
CHIMES: A GOBLIN STORY, is.
STORY OF LITTLE DOMBEY. is.

POOR TRAVELLER, BOOTS AT THE HOLLY-TREE
INN, and MRS. GAMP. is.

A CHRISTMAS CAROL, with the Original Coloured Plates.

Beingf a reprint of the Original Edition. With red border lines. Small 8vo,
red cloth, gilt edges, 55.

CHARLES DICKENS'S CHRISTMAS BOOKS.

REPRINTED FROM THE ORIGINAL PLATES.

Illustrated by JOHN LEECH, D. MACLISE, R.A., R. DOYLE,
C. STANFIELD, R.A., &c.

Fcap. cloth, is. each. Complete in a case, jx
A CHRISTMAS CAROL IN PROSE.
THE CHIMES : A Goblin Story.
THE CRICKET ON THE HEARTH: A Fairy Tale of

Home.

THE BATTLE OF LIFE. A Love Story.

THE HAUNTED MAN AND THE GHOST'S STORY.

SIXPENNY REPRINTS.
READINGS FROM THE WORKS OF CHARLES DICKENS.

As selected and read by himself and now published for the first time. Illustrated

A CHRISTMAS CAROL, AND THE HAUNTED MAN.

By CHARLES DICKENS. Illustrated.
THE CHIMES: A GOBLIN STORY, AND THE CRICKET

ON THE HEARTH. Illustrated.

THE BATTLE OF LIFE: A LOVE STORY, HUNTED

DOWN, AND A HOLIDAY ROMANCE. Illustrated.

The last Three Volumes as Christmas Works,

In One Volume, red cloth, 2s. 6d.

38 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

SCIENCE AND ART,

& JTournal for STeadjers antf

ISSUED BY MESSRS. CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED,

Agents for the Science and Art Department of the Committee of
Council on Education.

MONTHLY, PRICE THREEPENCE.

The Journal contains contributions by distinguished men ; short papers by prominent
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scientific and artistic world.

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With each issue of the Journal, papers or drawings are offered for Prize Competition,
extending over the range of subjects of the Science and Art Department and City and
Guilds of London Institute.

There are thousands of Science and Art Schools and Classes in the United Kingdom,
but the teachers connected with these institutions, although engaged in the advancement
of identical objects, are seldom known to each other except through personal friendship.
One object of the new Journal is to enable those engaged in this common work to com-
municate upon subjects of importance, with a view to an interchange of ideas, and the
establishment of unity of action in the various centres.

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39

ANSWERS TO QUESTIONS^ 1887 and 1888.

Messrs. CHAPMAN fir5 HALL beg to annoimce that Answers to the Questions
(Elementary and Advanced] set at the Examinations of the Science and Art
Department of May, 1887 and 1888, are published as under, each subject being
kept distinct, and issued in pamphlet form separately.
i. ANIMAL PHYSIOLOGY ... 1887 ( By J. H. E. Brock, M.D., P..S. (Lond.),

F.R.C.S. (Eng.),D.P.H. (Lond.)

H.Adams, C.E., M.I.M.E.

J, C. Fell, M.I.M.E.
E. Pillow, M.I.M.E.

Rev. F. W. Harriett, M.A.

J. J. Pilley, Ph.D., F.C.S.,
F.R.M.S.

J. Howard, F.C.S.

.. 1888

2. BUILDING CONSTRUCTION 1887 \

i888J

3. THEORETICAL MECHANICS, 1 887

1888

4. INORGANIC CHEMISTRY (Theo- \

retical), 1887 J

INORGANIC CHEMISTRY (Theo-
retical), ia88

5. Ditto — ALTERNATIVE COURSE

1887

Ditto — ALTERNATIVE COURSE
1888

6. MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY \

1887 (

MAGNETISM AND ELECTRICITY (
1888)

7. PHYSIOGRAPHY ...... 1887 \

8.

PRACTICAL PLANE AND SOLID

GEOMETRY ...... 1887

PRACTICAL PLANE AND SOLID

GEOMETRY
9. ART— THIRD

SPECTIVE .. .
ART — THIRD GRADE.

SPECTIVE ... .
PURE MATHEMATICS .

GRADE.

i

i8fe8 )
PER-\

1887]"
PER- \

1888 J

10. URE ATHEMATICS ... 1887

... 1888

11. MACHINE CONSTRUCTION AND

DRAWING ...... 1887

MACHINE CONSTRUCTION AND
DRAWING ...... 1888

12. PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE

1887

PRINCIPLES OF AGRICULTURE
1888

13. SOUND, LIGHT, AND HEAT, 1887 \

„ ' „ 1888 J

14. HYGIENE ...... 1887 1

...... 1888 /

15. INORGANIC CHEMISTRY (Prac- }

tical) ......... 1887 I

INORGANIC CHEMISTRY (Prac- j
tical) ......... 1888 J

16. APPLIED MECHANICS ... 1888

The price of each Pamphlet (dealing with both Elementary and Advanced,
papers] will be zd. net, postage included. Special terms will be given if quantities
are ordered.

W. Hibbert, F.I.C., A.I.E.E.
W. Rheam, B.Sc.
H. Angel.

A. Fisher.

A. Fisher and S. Beale.

R. R. Steel, F.C.S.
H. Carter, B.A.

H. Adams, C.E., M.I.M.E.
Dr. H. J. Webb, B.Sc.

C. A. Stevens.
J.

F.R.M.S.

Ph.D., F.C.S.,

J. Howard, F.C.S.
C. B. Outon, Wh.Sc.

CHAPMAN &• HALL, LIMITED.

THE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW.

T

Edited by FRANK HARRIS.

HE FORTNIGHTLY REVIEW is published on the ist of
every month, and a Volume is completed every Six Months.
The following are among the Contributors: —
PIERRE LOTE.

SIR JOHN LUBBOCK, BART., M.P.
THE EARL OF LYTTON.
SIR H. S. MAINE.
CARDINAL MANNING.
DR. MAUDSLEY.
PROFESSOR MAX MULLER.
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