eA ae ob fe SI ‘ath ics Opinions of the Acther's Earlier’ Boake "LIFE IN THE INDIAN POLICE Dairy GrapPHic,— The book is excellent value.” Tue Times,—“ Something to read at whatever page you open at.” Tue Giose.—‘ A really valuable contribution to the understanding of native life.” T.P.’s WEEKLY.—“* The author has written an attractive book.” DatLty TELEGRAPH.—“‘ One of the freshest and most delightful volumes of Indian reminiscence that we have read for some time,” MANCHESTER Crty News.—“‘ Nor is there a dull page in the book. ia Much of it will bear a second, and even a third, reading. Patt Matt Gazetre.—“ Altogether a book to be read and enjoyed.” IntsH _Trmes.—* An eminently readable book.” DunDEE ADVERTISER.—“ Does not contain a dull page.” ILLUSTRATED SPORTING AND Dramatic News.—Told with a strength z that holds the reader.” Specrator.—‘‘ Was more worth writing and is more worth reading than many expensive and more elaborate books written with effective simplicity. . . . oe unforced language and strangely effective. ...A really interesting Unitrep Empire.— Few pages can be described as dull . . . majority are interesting.” Fizitp.—*‘ We can unhesitatingly recommend ‘ Life in the Indian Police’ as © eBook to read.” Pusiisners’ Crrcucar.—* Has a real literary value,” PIONEER (ALLAHABAD).—“ A tale of enthralling interest. One of the best = Shikor yarns we have ever read. ASIAN (CaLcutra).—“ A worthy addition to . . . library of works dealing 3 with India and her people.” ApDvVocaTe or Inp1a.—* One of the freshest and most delightful volumes of Indian reminiscences that we have read for some time.” g3 INTERNATIONAL PoLice SERVICE MAGAZINE.—". . . truly delightful book.” MORNING Post.—“ There is not a dull page in it,” Norru AMERICAN (PHILADELPHIA).—“ M ic word- f ) any graphic pictures, No Herat (Boston, Mass.).—“ Memories that are remarkably personal \ TIGERLAND ATHEN#UM,—‘“‘In his former books . . . Mr. Gouldsbury acquired the reputation of telling his stories. . . vividly and well. In the present one. . . that level is well maintained.” WESTMINSTER GAZETTE.—“ Extraordinary and enthralling reading.” Daity Express.—‘‘ Enough to put all the sex problem novels ... far in the background.” THE Times.—‘‘ The book 5 ita as strongly to those who have never seen a tiger at large, as to the initiated big-game hunter.” Dairy CHRONICLE.—‘‘ For the second or third time Mr. Gouldsbury has placed his readers under an obligation.” Sunpay TimrEs.—‘ The book can be read from beginning to end . . . while as a narrative of pure adventure . . . we know of no other book that can beat it.” DUNDEE ADVERTISER.—‘‘ An admirable collection of adventure and hunting stories enlarges one’s knowledge of a most interesting and mysterious country.” THE GLosE.—‘In a special editorial ‘To-day’s Book’ says in conclusion : ‘Asa record of Indian sport we have rarely come across its equal and never, we think, its superior.’ ” THE ACADEMY.—‘‘ The book may be recommended to all who care for stories of big-game shooting told vividly by an expert.” SATURDAY REVIEW, in a full column review says in conclusion : *f The result is altogether excellent, and the book is of great merit and interest.” CouNTRY GENTLEMAN.—‘‘ Full of sustained interest. . .. An exciting book, well written and illustrated.” DaILy TELEGRAPH,—‘‘ Full of good stories and the record of adventure. . . . It is a sportsman’s book for sportsmen, and its public is secure.” Ir1sH TiMES.—‘‘ Its pages are full of interest from first to last. ... The author makes us live with him in his travels and rejoice with him in his successes. . . . The jungle and its romance hold us in their spell... . The tiger and panther . are not mere representatives of their kind ; they are living individuals.” THE WorLD.—‘‘ Better and more exciting than most novels is ‘Tiger- land.’ It is well written, the tone is genial and buoyant, and the author has a rare gift of neat expression.” THE BookMAN.—‘‘ One would say with apparent safety that it was well-nigh impossible to write another readable book on big-game shooting. Yet Mr. Gouldsbury has done so, and thoroughly confounded those who thought the subject exhausted.” THE FIELD.—“ This is without doubt a first-rate book of shooting and other adventures, and deserves a place on the bookshelf for its human as well as sporting interest.” ; MaprAs MAIL.—‘‘ As entertaining a book of its kind as has come our way for a considerable time.” BY THE SAME AUTHOR DULALL, THE FOREST GUARD By C. E. Goutpssury “LIFE IN THE INDIAN POLICE ~ By C. E. Goutpssury TIGERLAND REMINISCENCES OF FORTY YEARS’ SPORT AND ADVENTURE IN BENGAL By C. E. Goutpspury ‘sarydoa} aos puv sexys sty "291d sUyuodsT “MHAWIS YAO, AHL sr omnes mremp stn pe eee ster ree aa it whe / TIGER SLAYER BY = sl ORDER (DIGBY DAVIES, LATE BOMBAY POLICE) Sets o * BY ~~ y C. E. GOULDSBURK x” (LATE INDIAN POT'™: AUTHOR OF “ DULALL, THE FOREST GUART —- A TALE OF SPORT AND ADVENTURES IN BENGAL ; “LS®® oN THE INDIAN rotice” ; “ TiGeRLAND” WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON at “CHAPMAN & HALL, Lro. S ink = 191 oat i; gts st we . AUTHOR’S NOTE Tuts work, to which I have given the title of “ Tiger Slayer by Order,” as being obviously the most suitable, has been compiled entirely from notes and stories, furnished by Mr. _ Digby Davies, late a Deputy-Inspector-General of the _ Indian Police, and contains his own experiences as a Police q Officer, and Bhil Agent—coupled with the unique office of _ Tiger Slayer to the Government of Bombay. * Mr. Digby Davies served for over thirty years in that _ Presidency, and during this long period had many and _ exceptional opportunities of indulging his great taste for a = especially when carrying out his duties as “ Tiger _ Slayer.” I have, at his request, endeavoured, with the _ aid of his notes, to construct a tale—or rather, autobio- _ graphical narration of his adventures and experiences, _ and in order to do this have necessarily been obliged to _ make use of the first person throughout. __ To relate another’s story is, naturally, more difficult _ than to tell one’s own ; but in this case Mr. Davies’ accounts of his adventures are so full, and his descriptions of the appearance and habits of the various animals he €neountered given in such detail, that my task has been _ comparatively easy, and a very pleasant one. In my last book—* Tigerland ”—written also in these lines, I was, for reasons given, in the Preface to that work, unfortunately unable to divulge the name of the individual experiences I was narrating. Thus, in spite of my _ explanation, I was undeservedly credited with having _ €xperienced the adventures myself. ____In the present instance, however, being under no such _ festriction, I am glad to be in a position to acknowledge b vii AUTHOR’S NOTE my indebtedness to Mr. Digby Davies by name, for the excellent material which has enabled me to compile this work, as well as for the interesting photographs from which the illustrations have been taken. Mr. Davies’ hunting experiences were not confined to India alone, for during one period of leave, he made an expedition to Somaliland where he was singularly fortunate in procuring several elephants and lions, besides specimens of nearly every other wild animal to be found in that country. An account of these adventures is given in this narrative and should make interesting reading from the sportsman’s point of view. In conclusion, I take this opportunity of acknowledging the numerous and very favourable notices accorded by the Press to my last book—‘* Tigerland ’—and venture to hope that the present volume may meet with a similar reception. AUTHOR. MALvERN WELLS, July, 1915. Vili CONTENTS CHAPTER I eg Indian The lure of —Consider- | on an career— ure esa hunting pains la aatveas to the Beat-A gue of uoits interrupted—Man overboard—Attempts at rescue—The shark and its victim—Some eo gsc a pone wl titions concerning them—The vo Sbjeot and ee, weg gg description of ve omerwa of the The Elephanta caves, or tem and gods—The Towers of Silence pases tres eget vultures —Gruesome reasons yee their manent bye Bo origin, CHAPTER I across antelope—A successful stalk— by bullock-cart—Come my first — ne my prize—Join the 19th yy mmartines ing —Hurdle ede See and his Beating for a phantom ory detected-—Flight of the lee meets wor cea description of the offender— Mottey well tai ate sion caieailiag ck Ok taal ou ow t meeting. by ell fae ES. iidge = Warned) atCannond ‘ Be Op Ut 6 Oe eee CONTENTS CHAPTER III Leave Malegown for Khandesh—Appointed Assistant Political Agent and Adjutant Bhil Police Corps—My chief—A fine old sportsman —Air-guns dangerous at times—A marvellous performance—Some reminiscences of my early youth—An accommodating tutor— Questionable justice—My manny berieahs in Khandesh—A palatial residence—Description of my duties—A banyan tree tribunal— Some accounts of the Bhils, their belief in witchcraft—Omens and superstitions, love of sport—Legend of their origin—Life in the station—Christmas camps—Running amok—aA thrilling e ence —Shooting a Havildar—My first tiger—A description of the beast —Rejoicings in camp—aAn unselfish sportsman—Hfficiency of a *500 Rigby Express rifle—The best weapon in those days for ti —Diversity of opinion as to rifles—Various weapons or projectiles used by well-known sportsmen—To be judged by results—Best rifles for soft-skinned and heavy game described in next chapter. . 16 PAGE CHAPTER IV Some talk about rifles for big game—Efficiency of small bores doubtful —Selous on this subject—Knowledge of anatomy—An important factor—A quotation from Sanderson—An advocate for heavy weapons—Rifles recommended—Sir Samuel Baker’s opinion— Experiments I have made—Various projectiles used with results— Some rifles I have used—Apology for digression—Narrative resumed —The district of Khandesh described—How the Bhils were civilized —The necessity for a local and special officer—His duties—Experi- ence, how gained—tThe origin of the office of Tiger Slayer—Cattle and human beings destroyed by tigers—Khandesh a stronghold of wild beasts—Special body of hunters from Bhil Corps—Government elephants—Useful to shoot off or as beaters . . 0 5; Ae CHAPTER V A description of my Shikaris—A reliable quartette—The wild man of the woods—A true Aborigine—My first introduction to him—The palaver—Brother Shikaris—Become the best of friends—His progress in life—The tiger, and how to get him—The best season for tiger shooting—Baiting the jungles—Looking up the baits— Tracking by footprints—Stops on trees—The drive—Monkeys and peacocks as guides—Random shooting to be avoided—Following up a wounded tiger—Dangerous but necessary—Precautions to be taken—The art of tracking—How to be acquired—Difficult at first —Hyena or panther—How a tiger can be distinguished from a tigress—An adventure on the Satpuda hills—A tigress and her cubs —Arranging the beat—The tigress viewed—A beater charged— Seeks refuge in a tree—Seized by the leg—I go to the rescue—The wounded man sent into camp—Tigress takes cover—Refuses to come out—We attack her in her stronghold—aA furious charge and subsequent retreat—Darkness sets in—We leave her for the night . 30 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI _ Resume the attack—A bait taken—The tigress charges—A difficult shot Badly clawed and bitten—Saved Bapu’s k —Bandaging the wound—Carried into camp-—reatmont and eventual recovery—The dangers of a light rifle— in Khandesh—aAnother instance of light rifle tastes decane ss tha ciecn-Sokden # of the tiger—An unfortunate gna eo erabke terrified dog-boy—Tiger ‘ A perilons situation—The tiger eco olives * Sat bss nt gl Tracking up the tiger—Success at last—A fine CHAPTER VII ANd Tat "Beating on spoo~ ‘Tho bul bison vowed Changing say _ a ee es ee o—. t to ation ~A chance tiger appears on scene— An history —. and cold weather our a sign of ee uscular t—‘ Lucky bones "—Cattle- and - ference in weight and size—Length of tigers—Methods of measure- ment—aAge difficult to determine—How a tiger kills its Manner of eating—Not necessarily wate Be in its hahile—shie le—The tiger’s attack—Wounds ae of Number of cubs produced—. ae the cubs—Cubs as pets—Tiger fat and rheumatic SE of tigress as medicine—Adventures of a sample—Legends A curiosi ey = ean — —, 2 now specs Tho CHAPTER VIII ~~A conditional surrender suggested—Offer of a —Sampling the brandy— ‘ t . . 188 Victors and Vanquished . ‘ : < ‘ ; : . . 192 Tigress and her Cubs . ; ; ; ; : ‘ . . 282 XXii TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER CHAPTER I on an Indian career—The lure of big game hunting—Considering and means of adopting it professi —Final resolution— - sport— _ inthe Bazar—Discomfort and luxury of railway travelling in India— TEN at the age of nineteen, now some thirty years ago, set out to seek my fortune in India, I had already made up ’mind that whatever career I might adopt, or be com- pelled by necessity to accept, my leisure hours should be devoted to the hunting of big game. From my earliest ildhood upwards, I had read every book on Indian and rican sport I was able to procure till by the time my story ens, to become a big-game hunter was the one object of y life. Indeed so infatuated was I with this notion that I been a free agent at the time, and possessed of ifficient capital to embark on the adventure, I might “possibly have adopted big-game hunting as a professional Fortunately for my future, however, I was neither free my own profession nor had I the capital to invest B 1 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER in any scheme so idiotic, for as I learnt later professional big-game hunting in India is practically tabooed, nor even if permissible to engage in it, would the profit derived from its pursuit cover the cost of ammunition much less provide a livelihood for the hunter. Nevertheless the fact that big-game shooting was ob- tainable in India—even if it had to be combined with some less congenial occupation, was quite sufficient to inspire me with the desire to go out. Thus it came about that on a bright March morning, I found myself and my belongings on board the s.s. , en route for Bombay, and eventually Guzerat where my father was then commanding the Ist Bombay Grenadiers. The voyage out was not in any way remarkable, and except for one incident, my experiences were probably much the same as those of the majority of youngsters making this great voyage to the East. The first night on board with ali its attendant discomfort and anxiety, followed by days perhaps of sea-sickness and misery—till a calmer sea restores his physical and mental equilibrium, must obviously be endured by all who voyage on the waters, and to those who do so for the first time in their lives, must necessarily prove more irksome. But after these first few painful days comes a period generally most enjoyable, for amongst the crowd of pas- sengers on board a P. & O. there are always some to be found both capable and willing to cater for the amusement of the rest. Thus once the stormy waters of the “famous” Bay are passed—and weather conditions consequently more favourable—life on board assumes a very different hue. Dances, concerts, or theatricals now fill up the after- dinner hours, which heretofore had passed with leaded feet, while cricket, deck-quoits or shovel-board tend to shorten the otherwise long periods between meals. It was while one of these exciting contests was in progress that the exceptional incident I have referred to occurred. The game was one of deck-quoits, so far as I remember, the ship being in the Indian Ocean at the time —about half-way between Aden and Bombay. It was a lovely morning with hardly a ripple on the 2 A MAN OVERBOARD _ water, breakfast was just over and those of the passengers _ not actually engaged in the contest were all on deck, some _ smoking and others interested spectators. Suddenly there came from somewhere forward that awe- _ inspiring ery “‘ Man overboard!” In an instant there was a rush to the side—instinctively the one over which the _ The ship was brought to immediately, but before a _ boat could be lowered the man gave one long piercing seream, threw up his hands, and disappeared. _ A few moments later the fin of a shark was seen cutting _ swiftly through the water, but whether this was the beast : concerned we could not tell, probably it was not, for there . _ had been hardly time for it to have disposed of its victim, nor were there any blood-stains on the surface of the water. The unfortunate man was one of the lascars of the _ ship, who, while furling an awning, had suddenly lost his _ balance and fallen overboard, but would, in all probability _ have been saved, for, like all natives, he could swim like _ a fish, happier for him had it been otherwise since he would _ have met with an easier death. _ After this sad incident it was remembered that sharks ‘shark follows a ship it is a sign that before long there will be a death on board ! But although this tradition doubtless owes its origin to some coincidental happenings of the kind, it was not _ feally verified in this case, for the Indian Ocean is, as _ everybody knows, infested with these monsters, and they ‘Seem to prefer swimming on the surface to under water. ‘ee are, in calm weather, frequently to be seen, and easily _ distinguished by the peculiar shape of the dorsal fin. That they should follow a ship, moreover, is not at all surprising, _ Considering that a shark is probably the most voracious _ Of all creatures inhabiting sea or land and the amount of offal and edible refuse of all kinds that is constantly being thrown overboard from ships. __ However, be this all as it may, the incident cast a gloom _ over the ship, for to those who had actually seen the man TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER pulled down, and heard his agonizing scream, the scene was one calculated to impress itself too deeply on the mind to be easily erased. But fortunately the voyage was now nearly at an end, and three or four days later we dropped anchor in the harbour of Bombay. Here, after the usual trouble and delay, I succeeded at length in re-establishing connection with my heavy luggage—produced from that mysterious receptacle somewhere in the bowels of the ship known as the hold. My belongings being collected, I lost no time in going ashore, accompanied by many others, all seemingly anxious to be there as speedily as possible. This seemed strange, for the voyage, on the whole, had been a most enjoyable one, but all who have travelled much by sea will probably understand it, for, however pleasant a voyage may have been, it is seldom that any one desires to prolong it, and no sooner has the vessel reached her destination, than all are anxious to be out of her with the least possible delay— even the professional sailorman who makes his ship his home, is apparently no exception to this rule. The conclusion to be drawn from this is obviously that the average individual is not by nature partial to a life on the ocean waves, but only tolerates it for so long as necessity compels him so to live. Amongst those who hurried ashore, however, were possibly some returning from three months’ privilege leave, and who, having to rejoin their respective stations within a given date, had probably to leave by the first train out. *“* Privilege leave,” by the way, though a curious and somewhat cryptic combination of words, is one of the conditions of Indian Service, much valued by Anglo-Indian officers, both civil and military, since it is the only form of leave that can be taken on full pay. It is accumulative, but limited to three months at a time. The principle on which it works is this—for every eleven months’ completed service, an officer earns one .month’s leave, which may, if not availed of then, remain to his credit, and is allowed to accumulate up to a limit of three months. Then at the end of thirty-three months’ con- tinuous service, an officer can claim three months’ leave of + FIRST IMPRESSIONS which he can avail himself at any time. The chief ad- vantage, and in fact object, of this system being that as _ the whole of this leave is on full pay, the recipient can afford the expense of his passage home and back, and if he travels by the mail, gives him six clear weeks at home. But I am afraid I have rather wandered from my story, so must now come back to it. _ Every Englishman landing for the first time in Bombay, ‘must necessarily be struck with the extraordinary con- trast it presents to any city or cities he may be acquainted with either in England or even on the Continent, for despite _ itsreputation as the most European of the three Presidential _ capitals of India, the Oriental atmosphere about it is quite as marked as that of Madras or Calcutta, though possibly its European population—in proportion to its size—is larger and, to use the modern comprehensive phrase, more ‘up-to-date—which is but natural seeing that it lies three days by land and several by sea, closer to London and Paris, the recognized centres of civilization. _ In the matter of public institutions, such as Clubs and Hotels, Bombay, at the time I write of, was, and probably is still, far ahead of its two sister cities; the Byculla and Yacht Clubs being well known for their excellence, while Watson’s hotel, at that time the only institution worthy of the name in India, had a wide and well-merited reputation for comfort and excellence of its cuisine. _ But even while enjoying these comforts, not to say luxuries, products proper of Western civilization, the newly-arrived traveller will find it difficult to forget he is i the East, for the irritating mosquito buzzing continu- ously around him, or a cockroach—two inches long at Te ing across the matted floor, would in them- Selves be sufficient to remind him of the fact. _ But there is evidence more conclusive still in the huge, lofty rooms, with whitewashed walls all bare and punkahs Swinging overhead, to say nothing of the white-jacketed rc waiters—** Boys” as they are termed, though some _ Seem perilously near the limit of three-score years and ten _— who, barefooted and silent, perform their duties with a willingness and promptitude difficult to extract from their Smarter brethren in the West. TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER I cannot now, after so many years, recall very clearly my own first impressions of the East, but as I make no claim to be original, have no doubt that they were something of the nature above described. What I do remember more vividly, however, is an excursion I made in company with. several of my fellow passengers, to the Elephanta caves situated about five miles distant from Bombay among the group of islands which shelter the harbour. These ancient, rock-hewn caves, or rather temples, said to have been dedicated to the god Siva, are approached by a steep ascent for half a mile through rocks, trees and tropical plants of many kinds. Near the landing place is the life-size figure of an elephant, carved out of a solid rock, whence, probably, the caves derive their name. A long stairway, also cut out of living rock, leads to a temple in which are several figures of gigantic gods and goddesses, including a colossal bust of the three-faced god of Buddha. Another striking figure is that of the god Siva, one of the Hindu Trinity, on whose face severity and revenge, characteristic of his destroying attributes, are strongly depicted. One of the hands holds a large snake of the Cobra species, and the other certain fruit and flowers, symbolical of blessings for mankind. Though much defaced by the iconoclastic tendencies of the Mohammedans and Portu- guese, this wonderful temple still retains much of its original splendour. We also visited the famous ‘“‘ Towers of Silence,”’ which stand in a large garden in the highest part of Malabar Hill, and are surrounded by a great quantity of trees swarming with vultures, who in their countless hundreds occupy every branch. The reason for the number and continual presence of these ill-omened birds is a gruesome one, for these Towers of Silence are used by the sect known as the Parsis for the disposal of their dead; the bodies, all uncoffined as they are, being laid out on the summit of the towers, purposely to be devoured by these birds. It is a curious, not to say revolting method of disposing of one’s dead, but the process is simple and effective, for the bodies rest on a grating, thus as soon as the birds have stripped off the flesh, the bones fall through into a pit 6 PARSIS AND ANTELOPE below, whence they are removed by the relatives, through _ subterranean passages under the towers and cast into the i. Curiously enough, however, the Parsis, except for this barbarous fashion of treating their defunct relations, are a singularly civilized and intelligent race. Believed to be descendants of the ancient Persians who migrated to India on the conquest of their country by the Arabs, they appear _ to have settled down in large numbers in Bombay, where 2 ad are frequently to be found filling important positions = under Government and in the commercial world. They are mostly good scholars too, and almost invariably _ speak several languages. ____In addition to their curious burial customs they have _ some others almost as unique as, for instance, the practice _ of benevolence, which being one of the great principles of _ their religion is carried to such an extent that a Parsi beggar is a thing unknown. Then again, they are Fire- Worshippers, and as such probably the only people in the world who do not smoke, as their intense reverence for this element debars them from using it for so trivial a as the smoking of a hookah, pipe, or cigar. In ies, taking them all round, the Parsis would appear to be the most unique and interesting people of any that inhabit _ British India, as they are probably the most enlightened. E * * * * * * _ After a stay of two or three days in Bombay, I prepared _to set out on my journey to Guzerat, part of which was to be performed by train and the rest by road in bullock _¢arts. This last is a mode of travel much disliked by _ Europeans as a rule, being slow and generally uncomfort- able, but I was looking forward to it for I had learnt from ‘Inquiries I had made that the road passed through vast ivated plains on which antelopes in hundreds were uently to be seen. is discovery naturally roused my sporting instincts, but it had come so unexpectedly that it found me un- prepared. For some reason unexplained—financial, most probably !—neither a gun nor a rifle had been included in my outfit, and I had hitherto trusted to being able to beg, borrow, or steal one or the other from my father when we 7 aa! 3 me! iW & fe*..! fr a . . ge ; > ae - ¢ TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER met, but this hope, justifiable though it afterwards proved, did not cover the present difficulty, viz., being without any weapon more deadly than a pen-knife with which to wage war on the antelope. I might, of course, have bought a gun or rifle at one of the European gun-smiths, but only for a price far greater than I could afford, so finally decided to try to pick up one in the bazar, where guns, of a sort, are occasionally to be found. Afraid of trusting so important a purchase to anybody else, 1 went myself to the bazar, and eventually succeeded in securing an old, single-barrel, muzzle-loading gun, for what seemed to me an absurdly low price. It was a risky investment though at best, for as a rule guns bought in a bazar are apt to be more dangerous to the user than to the animal he may fire at. However, this one was evidently of superior make, for though old it still bore traces of finer finish than is generally found in such guns purchased in bazars. The journey by rail was not a long one, nor of any interest—railway journeys in India seldom are, and, more- over, are generally uncomfortable, because of the heat and dust, though in one respect Indian railway travel is more luxurious than in Europe, and this is that every first and second-class passenger is entitled to full length sleeping accommodation at nights, which renders the long journeys, so often necessary, more tolerable than they otherwise would be. _A journey by bullock cart—Come across antelope—A successful stalk— Skinning my first trophy—Exhibiting my prize—Join the 19th Native Infantry—A martinet C.0.—Life at Malegown—Hurdle races and a fall—A novel remedy—The station skikari and his wiles—Paying for experience—Beating for a phantom panther—Counterfeited foot- prints—The fraud detected—Flight of the culprit—Pursuit and punishment—A description of the offender—Ezperientia docet— Unreliability of native inforra’ on—Lying to please—Other reasons for false reports of game—Tacv and temper necessary to success— Rewards for true information, money well laid out—How to acquire experience—A sad incident in our Station life—Sky-larking ends in a disaster—Going to a race meeting by rail—Walking along the foot- board—Approaching a bridge—Warned too late—Cannoned off into the river—Body subsequently recovered. _ It was early morning when I left the railway station, at _ which I had been deposited during the night, and started _ in my bullock cart on the journey by road. _ We had not gone very far when we came across vast herds of antelope. One small herd was feeding in a cotton- field some distance apart from all the rest, so this was the lot I elected to stalk. Working my way cautiously towards them, I gradually approached within range when, taking a long a aim, I fired at what appeared to be the ae u _ The beast fell to the shot at once, and by the time I had _ Tun up to it, was dead. I was naturally much delighted, for this was the first shot I had ever fired at any four-legged animal larger than a rabbit, whereas this one, though only ‘an antelope, was at any rate regarded as big game. __ The buck was quite an ordinary one, but to me, as my first sporting trophy, most precious, so much so in fact that I insisted on skinning it myself, after which perform- ance, very indifferently performed I fear, we proceeded on our way. : 9 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER The journey, much to my disappointment, was com- pleted without further adventure, and in due course we arrived at my father’s bungalow, when I remember well, how, after the first greetings, I instantly produced my trophy, and with what pride I related how I had procured it, indeed had it been a tiger that I had slain I could have scarcely been prouder of the feat ! All sportsmen, probably, will understand my feelings for the first comparatively big thing shot by a novice has always a special value in his eyes, but looking back now, after thirty years, I feel ashamed to think that I should have made all this fuss about a wretched deer. After spending some time with my father at Guzerat, I went on to Malegown to join the 19th Native Infantry to which I was attached, fora course of drill, prior to taking up an appointment in the Intiian Police for which service I had already obtained a nomination. The 19th was at that time commanded by a certain Colonel J , one of the good old school, who, though a martinet and somewhat given to exceedingly strong language on parade, was, nevertheless, very popular with the youngsters in the regiment. Our life at Malegown, a small, uninteresting station, was not very exciting, but weekly gymkhana meetings, to which friends from neighbouring stations were in- variably invited, helped to pass the time. Those sports usually consisted of cross-country racing, tent-pegging, tilting at the ring, ete. Having ridden from my childhood, I was naturally a good rider, and used consequently to pull off many of these events—the money prizes helping considerably to the pay- ing of my mess bills. In the hurdle races, I remember, the jumps were usually fairly stiff, and on one occasion came perilously near to ending my career. Fortunately, however, I escaped with only a good shaking, notwith- standing that the horse had rolled over me and that I was picked up unconscious and carried away in that condition from the course. A strong whisky and soda, as I learnt later, was the only remedy administered and apparently with marvellous results, for I came round at once, at least, so I was informed, for I was not in a position to know how 10 A PHANTOM PANTHER I was unconscious. At any rate the cure was evidently complete for I have no recollection of feeling any the worse for the fall. Amongst the other “ griffs’”* in the regiment were several as keen on sport as myself, but beyond small game —and an antelope occasionally—the sport we obtained was not on a very extensive scale. To the station shikari, however, we were the source of a good income, for taking advantage of our unquenchable desire to bag something big, he was constantly arranging beats for various tigers and leopards, none of which had any real existence, nevertheless, the beaters had to be paid every time, and at a rate which allowed of a goodly sum being pocketed by the shikari. On one occasion I remember, he brought us news of a big panther, supposed to be in a jungle some thirty miles distant. This information being more than usually cir- cumstantial, several of us decided to go after the beast, fully convinced that we were at last to be recompensed for _all the disappointments we had suffered. On arrival at the jungle we found some two hundred _ beaters assembled, and elaborate arrangements made for a beat. The guns being duly posted, the beaters were solemnly marshalled and went through the jungle to the music of tom-toms and other noise-producing instruments _ of various tones and power, making sufficient racket to _ Youse any animal within five miles of the place, but without - any result, for there were none within that distance of the é We tried a second time, but with no better success ; | y we decided on following up what were stated to be the animal’s tracks, but had not proceeded very far, when _ my orderly, who was something of a shikari himself, _ Suddenly burst out laughing. ‘* Look, sahib,” he exclained, ing to some foot-prints more perfect than the rest, _ “those tracks are made by hand!” and sure enough they _ were, for looking at them closer, we now could see they had _ been carefully prepared to represent the foot-prints of a large panther. The {shikari, finding himself detected, bolted at once; _ but furious at the trick he had played us, I ran after him, a. * Short for Griffen, meaning in Anglo-Indian parlance a Novice, ae a we ‘e co 13 a A ies Mi Sn tinct at es ee TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER thirsting for revenge. He knowing this and probably also guessing the form that it would take if he allowed himself to be caught, did his best to get away. It was a good race, for though I was younger, and probably faster, he had a good start, and, moreover, was not encumbered with a superfluity of clothing or boots. However, I caught him up at last, but my anger by this time having somewhat cooled down, I let him off quite lightly as compared with his offence. This was, I think, one of the worst disappointments I ever experienced in pursuit of sport, for it is seldom that a fraud is so deliberately manufactured. That native information is often unreliable is quite true; but there is generally some foundation for it, such as a tiger or leopard having been heard or seen in the locality, or the skeleton or a few bones found of some domestic animal believed to have been killed. And yet from the general appearance and character of the offending shikari in question, no one would have supposed him capable of concocting a trick so well thought out and ingenious. A Mohammedan by caste, he was nevertheless addicted to strong waters, and when off duty was not infrequently seen drunk. In other respects, too, he was a low type of native distinctly more stupid than intelligent. In dress, too, as I have already hinted, he was not what might be called particular. A generally unclean turban and a string round his waist over which hung, fore and aft, a narrow strip of cotton cloth, plus a brown blanket, carried, not worn over his shoulder, was all that he had on in the way of a “‘suit,’’ while a brass badge hung on his person described him as “‘ Emamdeen, the station shikari.” This badge of office being, in his esti- mation no doubt, the most important part of his attire, at any rate was the only evidence of civilization about him. After administering the well-deserved correction to this prince of deceivers, we wended our way homewards, sadder and wiser men than when we had set out on this adventure, and resolved to keep the matter to ourselves lest the ridicule of those who had refused to join the expedition should be added to our discomfiture. But we had counted without that extraordinary, 12 LYING TO PLEASE _ almost wireless-like telegraphy by which news in India is so rapidly and mysteriously conveyed, for when on our ___ return that night we went in to dinner we found that every member of the mess was in full possession of the facts. _ The chaff that we were consequently subjected to may therefore be imagined, though amongst these scoffers there _ was probably not one who would have detected the fraud any sooner than we did, for the counterfeited pugs, as I have said, had been exceedingly well done. 7 For some time after this incident we devoted our leisure ‘moments to the hunting of smaller and less important _ game, and any news of tiger or leopard kills brought in, unless absolutely verified or within a reasonable distance _ from the station, were left severely alone. ; This incident, however, was only another verification _ of that ancient Latin proverb Experientia docet, which is nowhere better exemplified than when applied to Indian _ big-game shooting ; firstly, for the reason that the Aryan _ brother is not invariably truthful as to the information he brings in, not that his reports are always deliberately _ false, on the contrary there is generally some foundation for his story, but being always desirous of pleasing his _ Sahib, he often goes out of his way to repeat not what has actually occurred, but what he thinks the latter would like -tohear. Thus, if a leopard happens to have killed a dog in his village he will walk several miles into the station _ and report that a tiger has killed a bullock, simply because he knows that the sahib would sooner have news of a tiger _ than a leopard! _ Or again, if the inhabitants of a village have any _ reason, however slight, for suspecting the presence of either _ of these dangerous animals in any adjacent jungle, they will generally dispatch one of their number, usually the _ Village chokidar or watchman, to the nearest camp or _ Station with a circumstantial report to the effect either _ that the animal has actually been seen or that it has taken _ up its abode in a certain jungle which he is ready to point out : For making a practically false report like this, however, there is usually an underlying reason, over and above the _ mere desire to please the sahib, for as it is assumed that the 13 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER latter will take the bait at once, they know the result must be that the suspected jungle, or jungles, will be thoroughly beaten out by beaters, who, incidentally, will pocket two annas a piece, hence should the animal be there it will be either killed or driven off and thus relieve the villagers of its presence, or if the beat should prove a blank, set their minds at rest by thus proving that no dangerous animal is there. Such then are some of the traps into which the embryonic ~ Indian sportsman, unfamiliar with India and her people, is likely to fall and generally does, until personal experiences such as the one I have described have taught him to estimate the proper value of any information he receives before deciding to act on it. But even if after he has done this he goes out to the spot only to find that the information was false or grossly exaggerated, he must be very careful to resist the temptation—often a very strong one—to deal harshly with the informant, for it must be remembered that in the pursuit of big game, especially leopards and tigers, everything depends on the receipt of prompt in- formation of “ kills,” and as these are usually of village cattle, it is the villagers only who can supply this informa- tion. Hence it is obviously necessary for the sportsman to cultivate friendly relationships with these men and to gain their confidence, which can best be done by kind treatment, generally and by always rewarding liberally any individual who brings in accurate information. Money thus expended will in the end be found to have been well spent, for in India, as I have said before, news is rapidly transmitted, thus the name of a sahib who pays rewards will soon be spread abroad, and men will travel many miles to bring him information of a kill or other evidence of a tiger or leopard’s presence, of which he could not otherwise have heard. Nor would he be necessarily out of pocket in paying for this information, as there is a Government reward for the destruction of such animals which he can claim by producing the head and skin. The sums vary in amount in different provinces, but are always on a fairly liberal scale, hence amply sufficient for the informer who is usually 14 A SAD ACCIDENT an indigent individual to whom even a couple of rupees will aon weg = five wemras a paren 4 * * 1 I remained for some eth with the regiment at Male- _ gown, learning my drill and incidentally acquiring consider- _ ableexperience of jungle life and sport, for amongst the senior _ officers were one or two old shikaris as willing to relate _ their adventures and experiences as I was to hear of them, and in this way picked up much valuable information, _ which in after years stood me in good stead. So that on _ the whole, life at this little station, if not very exciting, was at any rate instructive and decidedly enjoyable. On one occasion, however, a gloom was cast over our small community by the death of one of our young officers under _ circumstances so sad that it made a great impression on - us all. He and a midshipman, on leave from a man-of- _ war lying in Bombay harbour, were travelling to Ahmeda- __ bad for the race-week by train, and on the journey, wishing _ to join some friends, who were in another carriage, they _ got out on to the footboard and were walking along it when the midshipman, who was in front, saw that they were approaching a bridge. He called out to warn his companion, meanwhile flattening himself up against the door. The other attempted to do the same, but being a _much bigger man, and possibly less agile, was cannoned off and fell into the river below, whence his body was subse- quently recovered. 15 CHAPTER [iI . Leave Malegown for Khandesh—Appointed Assistant Political Agent and Adjutant Bhil Police Corps—My chief, a fine old sportsman—Air-guns dangerous at times—A marvellous performance—Some reminiscences of my early youth—An accommodating tutor—Questionable justice —My headquarters in Khandesh—A palatial residence—Description of my duties—A banyan tree tribunal—Some accounts of the Bhils, their belief in witchcraft—Omens and superstitions, love of sport— Legend of their origin—Life in the station—Christmas camps— Running amok—A thrilling experience—Shooting a Havildar—My first tiger, a description of the beat—Rejoicings in camp—An unselfish sportsman—Efficiency of a *500 Rigby Express rifle—The best weapon in those days for tigers—Diversity of opinion as to rifles—Various weapons or projectiles used by well-known sportsmen—To be judged by results—Best rifles for soft-skinned and heavy game, described in next chapter. Havine completed my course of drill, I left Malegown, parting from my companions in the regiment with much regret and joined my appointment in Khandesh, to which district I had been posted as Assistant Superintendent of Police and Adjutant of the Bhil Corps, under that fine old sportsman Colonel Oliver Probyn, C.1.E., to whom in grate- ful remembrance for many kindnesses received, I have devoted a special chapter. Some time before I became acquainted with him he had had the misfortune to lose his right arm and two fingers of his left hand through the bursting of an air-gun, yet notwithstanding being thus handicapped, he still remained the splendid shot and rider that he had always been. Strangely enough, though, he had despaired of ever handling a rifle again, and it was merely through a friend at a picnic casually challenging him to shoot at an empty bottle that led to his taking to his shooting again. It appears that when handed the rifle by his friend, instead of firing at the bottle, he, doubtless preferring a 16 A NEW USE FOR A TUTOR _ living target, aimed at a small bird perched on a tree a long § way off, and, to the amazement of those present, brought it down. It was a marvellous performance, and as a first ] peeempt at rifle-shooting with one hand, probably un ; hence, it is not surprising that, with the self- Saiidence born of this extraordinary feat, he should _ eventually have gained the reputation of being one of the _ finest shots and tiger-hunters India has known. __ This reference to air-guns reminds me of a youthful _ experience of my own in connection with one of these weapons. The event, however, had no such tragic ending _ as the one described, though it terminated somewhat un- : pleasantly to the one principally concerned, viz., a French _ tutor, who, for his sins, perhaps, was occupying the , unenviable position of bear-leader and instructor to my brother and myself. He was, however, a most natured individual, and taking advantage of his disposition we persuaded him to procure for us an air-gun or air-cane, as these dangerous weapons were then called. Fortunately for him, however, the one he had obtained for us was not very powerful, for we had no sooner mastered the intricacies of the weapon, than, taking further advantage of his amiability, we started our shooting by making use of his person as a target. _ This went on for some time much to our edification, though—so far as I remember—not without some feeble from our victimised preceptor. At length one y we were caught in the act by the two old maiden ties who had had the misfortune to be constituted our ardians until such time as we should be too old for feminine control, which period, however, judging from our € had seemingly arrived already. __ These two old dames, possibly under the impression that our shots were fired in anger, instead of as a pastime, were horrified beyond measure; but with commendable promptitude and courage, immediately disarmed us, eonfiscating the weapon. _ Much as we resented these arbitrary proceedings at the moment, we came in time to realize that they had probably necessary, for we were wise enough to know that tutors were not intended to be made use of as targets, therefore. et c 17 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER having so misused him, the confiscation of the offending weapon seemed to us quite a natural precautionary measure. But what we failed to understand, either at the time or later, was the subsequent action of the “ authorities ” with reference to our luckless tutor, who, doubtless much to his amazement, too, was summarily dismissed! This to our budding notions of justice and fair dealing seemed altogether wrong, for—as we well knew—he had not participated in the pastime of his own free will, nor had it afforded him amusement, on the contrary, for the part he had played was scarcely an amusing one. But to return to events more modern. My head- quarters in the Khandesh district were at Dhurumgoan, where I lived in the palatial mansion built by Outram of Indian Mutiny fame. It was naturally much too large for me, indeed some idea of its size may be gathered from the fact that it is now a cotton factory! Fortunately, in India, bachelors are not expected to furnish their abodes on a European scale. My duties were not of a very onerous description, my time being chiefly occupied in studying native languages, and preparing for Departmental Examinations. Nor was there much of office work in those days. Many a land or other dispute, which would now run to reams of paper and many months’ delay, were then settled under the village banyan tree by Colonel Probyn, who, in his capacity of Bhil Agent, adjusted quarrels too, and released many a hard-pressed debtor from the clutches of the exacting money-lender. Indeed in the year 1870 the pressure of Gujar * money- lenders in the Western District, aroused so much ill-feeling that but for Colonel Probyn’s intervention and his great personal influence, a general rising of the Bhils would undoubtedly have taken place. As a great portion of my Indian life was passed amongst these people, and consequently many of the adventures I am about to relate are connected with them, a short account of this tribe may prove of interest. Though found in small numbers in every part of Khan- desh, the bulk of the Bhil population inhabit the western, — * Generally capitalists and landholders in North-west Khandesh. 18 THE BHILS OF KHANDESH _ and wilder portion of the district. They are quite distinct _ from any other race in India, and are the true aborigines _ of their country. The typical Khandesh Bhil, the wild - woodsman of the Satpuda mountains, is a dark, well-made, active and hardy individual, with high cheek-bones, wide nostrils, and almost African in feature. His dialect is a mixture of Hindustani and Marathi with Guzeratti ter- Strong believers in witchcraft, they have “ Barvas,” or hereditary sorcerers, whom they consult on all occasions, particularly when planning some plundering raid, and whose advice they invariably follow. Great attention is paid to omens, as, for instance, if a bird screams on the left, or a fox or snake crosses the path and escapes, there will be no success that day. On the other hand, should a bird eall on the right or a dead snake be seen, the enterprise will end successfully. In character they are thriftless, addicted to drinking e) _~ and as a rule averse to steady work, but on the whole the Bhils as a people are simple, honest and faithful, and _ above all, excellent sportsmen, their love of jungle life and skill as shikaris being evidently inherent, for in all my long experience of them I never met a Bhil who was not possessed of all the qualities which contribute to the making of a good shikari, and as to their honesty, I can say with absolute truth that during the many years I passed amongst them T never missed the value of so much as a rupee. __ The Hindu legend of their origin is that of an union of the god Mahadoo with a beautiful woman, name apparently unknown. The result of this union was several sons, - them one ill-favoured and vicious, whose sins _ culminated in killing his father’s favourite bull. For this _ Offence he was banished an outcast to the hills and there became the founder of the Bhils. The word Bhil being ‘derived, as is supposed, from the Dravidian “ Billi,” mean- ing a bow. It was not until I was appointed to succeed Oliver Probyn as Bhil Agent and Tiger Slayer to Government, as will be referred to later, that I learnt more of these very interesting people, a further description of whom and of 7. my duties in the above dual capacities will be given later. oe alii 19 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER Meanwhile, as Assistant Superintendent of Police and Adjutant of the Bhil Corps, my life was enjoyable enough. We were but a small community it is true, but frequently visited the neighbouring stations for race meetings, in fact on any plausible excuse—besides we had many pleasant shooting camps ourselves and especially at Christmas time when, as is the case all over India, such camps are regular institutions and usually of a very festive order; except at large stations where instead of shooting camps these Christmas gatherings usually take the form of race meetings or gymkhanas at headquarters. The quasi-military portion of my duties was on the whole fairly monotonous, but on one occasion we had an exceedingly exciting experience with a Naik or corporal of the Bhil Corps. This enterprising individual, electing to run amok one morning when Probyn and I were on parade, shot his Havildar dead, then loosed off into a squad of recruits at drill, wounding one severely. ’ Happening to be quite close to him at the time, I ran up and disarmed him, narrowly escaping a shot he fired at me, the bullet hitting the ground at my feet. The fact of my being in rapid motion at the time probably saved my life, for the man was evidently a good shot, as proved by his practice on the Havildar. With the exception of this exciting little incident, the only other shooting adventure worth recording that I experienced during these early years of my service while stationed in Khandesh, was one which no true sportsman would be likely to forget, since it was no less important an event than the bagging of my first tiger. Although it is now nearly thirty years since this red-letter day in my life, I can still recall quite vividly those few exciting moments of that day when, perched on the branches — of a tree—my rifle ready for instant use—I waited with bated breath for the animal to appear, and when it came out at last, the first tiger I had ever seen in its wild state, how anxiously I watched its every movement, wondering at its enormous muscular developments, extraordinary girth of limbs, especially noticeable in the forearm and wrist, its beautiful white beard and bristling whiskers, all — 20 CLEVER SHIKAR TACTICS so different to the long, lithe, skinny animals on which I had often gazed with such longing admiration in the Zoo! _ It was a grand and yet an awe-inspiring sight, for there is _ something in the personality of a tiger which fills the mind _ with thoughts such as no other wild animal inspires. With _ the sportsman, suitably armed and bent on the destruction _ of the beast, this feeling is not one of fear, but rather of _ respect, as for a foe whom he knows instinctively will require all his skill to beat. But what perhaps interested me as much as the tiger itself was the way in which, under the directions of my chief, the beat had been arranged. For while the main _ body of the beaters were advancing through the jungle, others had been posted up in trees, at twenty or thirty paces’ interval, as stops to prevent the animal sneaking off unobserved, up some smaller pathway or ravine instead of passing by my post. These tactics were admirably carried out for, as already mentioned, there are no better shikaris in India than the Bhils, or any who can compete _ with them in the art of driving the quarry in the direction required. Thus, each time the tiger had attempted to turn off to right or left, the stop posted nearest to the spot had suc- ceeded in preventing it, either by tapping lightly with his stick upon a branch, or by giving a low cough—these sounds, ‘slight as they were, being quite sufficient for the animal’s keen sense of hearing to detect. __ Finally he was driven up to within a hundred yards of my machin and then, objecting to any further hustling, came charging past my post at racing speed. Waiting till I thought I had made certain of my shot, I fired, but, seemingly, without effect, for the beast held on with ‘undiminished speed, covering with each bound some fifteen feet at least. Continuing at this pace for about five and twenty yards, he suddenly collapsed, falling into some brushwood, where we found him later lying on his _ side—stone dead. _ There was great rejoicing in the camp that night, and _ to celebrate the occasion Probyn insisted on my drinkng _ the major portion of a bottle of champagne, for was not _ this my first tiger, and killed with one shot too? But, . 21 Pe ee ee eee ln Re eae ame TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER strictly speaking, the triumph should have been his, for we had drawn for places and though he got the best naka,* he had given it up to me. However, good sportsman that he was, he could not have been more pleased if he had shot — the beast himself. I may mention that I had not on this occasion used the single barrel gas-pipe of which mention has been made, but a ‘500 Express by Rigby, taking 6 drams of powder and bullet of pure lead. This is probably, or rather was in those days, the best kind of rifle for use against a tiger, or any of the larger soft-skinned animals, but, as there seems to be such diversity of opinion on the subject, I propose in the next chapter to give a description of the various weapons and projectiles used by well-known sportsmen and myself on different kinds of game, and with what result, so that the reader may judge for himself not only as to the rifle best suited for tigers, but for most heavy game as well. * Position or post. 22 CHAPTER IV - ome talk about rifles for big game—Efficiency of small bores doubtful— 4 Selous on this subject—Knowledge of anatomy an important factor —A quotation from Sanderson—An advocate for heavy weapons— Rifles recommended—Sir Samuel Baker’s opinion on experiments I have made—Various projectiles used, with results—Some rifles I have used—Apology for digression, narrative resumed—The district of Khandesh described—How the Bhils were civilized—The necessity for a local and special officer—His duties—Experience, how gained— The origin of the office of Tiger Slayer—Cattle and human beings destroyed by tigers—Khandesh a stronghold of wild i body of hunters from Bhil Corps—Government elephants—Useful to shoot off, or as beaters. Tue question as to which is the rifle best suited for big and dangerous game is a somewhat controversial one, and I am aware, while recording my opinion, that I differ from many great authorities on this subject ; but every sports- man who has actually experimented with rifles of various patterns, on big game must necessarily be guided by the results he has obtained and naturally favours the weapon _ which he has found most successful. __. Personally, I am no believer in small bores in the hands _ of ordinary sportsmen, they lack the smashing power and a yzing effect of the heavy bores. I propose, later on, 3 rating the truth of this theory by anecdotes, and as _ I have on more than one occasion been in a tight corner, _ and was once severely mauled by a tiger, the marks of _ whose teeth and claws I bear to this day, I trust my ob- servations will act as a warning to young sportsmen against _ fashly entrusting themselves to light and so-called “ handy” _ Weapons when in pursuit of dangerous game. ous, the great African hunter, advocates small bores, but it should be remembered that that celebrated sports- man, with his intimate knowledge of anatomy and life- experience of big-game shooting, knows how and where to 28 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER strike the game in a vital spot. This is exemplified by his having on one occasion shot five elephants in succession with a ‘450 Gibbs Metford, an extraordinarily small bore rifle to use against such very heavy game. I have myself killed several bison and buffalo with small bore rifles too, on one occasion with a ‘860 Express, but these were all picked shots. It is not, however, always. possible to obtain a head or shoulder shot, therefore the rifle for such exceedingly heavy game should be one powerful enough to kill, or at any rate to stop such an animal on whatever part of the body it may be hit. Then, again, to quote that well-known sportsman, the late Mr. Sanderson: “‘ It is sometimes argued,” he writes, ‘“‘that hundreds of large animals have been bagged with 12 or 14-bore rifles or even smaller weapons. True, but how many more have escaped or have been consigned to die lingering deaths that could have been secured with heavier metal! A 14 or 16-bore with 4 drams of powder, is sufficient to kill even an elephant, if a fair shot can be had at his brain, but supposing the elephant to be rushing through a tangled brake of long grass, when only a hurried and indistinct shot can be had at him, the smaller gun would be useless unless its ball reached his brain, whilst the heavy projectile would floor or stun, even if it did not kill him. A rifle for heavy game should be capable of meeting these contingencies, not being adapted only for “picked shots and bright moments.” For ordinary sportsmen, therefore, I think there is no better weapon for thick-skinned animals such as elephants, rhino, buffaloes and bison than an 8 or 10-bore Paradox gun or rifle, burning 8 or 10 drams of powder. I prefer a Paradox gun as it is lighter than a rifle of the same calibre, a great advantage in African hunting of which so much is done from the saddle. It also gives a higher velocity and greater penetration with the same charge of powder, and the recoil is less. For soft-bodied or thin-skinned animals such as tigers, lions, leopards and bears a *500 or ‘577 Express, burning 5 or 6 drams of powder, would be the most suitable weapon. Having now said my say about rifles, I will add a few lines about the quality of the projectiles, which, in my 24 BEST BULLETS FOR BIG GAME inion, are the best suited for big or dangerous game. late Sir Samuel Baker, in his most interesting book, _ “ Wild Beasts and their Ways,” states: “ The duty of the _ bullet is to preserve its direct course; it should possess a _ power of great penetration, should not be easily deflected, _ and together with penetrating power, it should produce a stunning effect by an overpowering and striking energy.” ; I have experimented with all kinds of bullets on Indian _ and African game, and have come to the conclusion that for elephants, buffaloes, rhino, and bison, the solid hardened or steel core conical bullet, 150 grains, is the best. This bullet has an enormous penetrating power and is capable of crashing through every opposing obstacle such as massive bone and muscle, a matter of great importance _ Should the beast be charging, or rushing through high grass or bush, when only a hurried and indistinct shot can be had at him. For tigers, lions, panthers, bears and the Indian or African deer or antelope respectively, I _ think the long Rigby or Holland bullet, 570 grains of pure _ lead, with a small hollow and a heavy, solid base to ensure _ hecessary penetration and expansion is the best. _ A bullet of this description on striking an animal will not splinter up, but assume a mushroom shape, also it is _ not easily deflected. The small, light bullet invariably _ used with Express rifles, though admirable for small . Ee eS eT ae eee _ antelopes such as black buck, chinkara, ete., is, in my _ Opinion, too hollow, consequently too light for dangerous 4 +4 _ game. It smashes up into minute fragments immediately o* _ on impact, merely inflicting a surface wound, and is, more- _ over, easily deflected on striking a twig or any other .. ion. e _ I have invariably used 10 or 8-bore rifles against ele- a ts, buffaloes, rhino, and bison, and a ‘500 Rigby Express or tigers, lions, leopards, ete., each with the projectile already described, though, at a pinch I have never hesi- tated to use my ‘500 Express against heavier game— elephants and buffalo—using, of course, a solid bullet. This tifle was originally built by Rigby for a well-known sports- _ Man in Madras, and has been my companion for over twenty- _ Six years. With it I have shot all kinds of game both large and small. 25 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER I have had no experience with cordite rifles, but I believe they require very careful treatment which would be a serious drawback in wild country where weapons are often subjected to very severe usage. Nevertheless, these rifles, as with all things new, are probably being largely used by the modern big-game hunter, and, for all I know, may possibly be superior—bore for bore—to those I have described ; but if so, they must be extraordinarily efficient weapons of destruction. * % * * * * I will now resume my narrative, which, I fear, I have too long neglected, and I ought perhaps also to apologize for this long digression, because, except to sporting readers, the preceding pages of this chapter must necessarily make dull reading; but I have always held that a work which purports to be a book on sport should be instructive as well as entertaining, if only for the reason that it is as likely to be read by budding sportsmen thirsting for know- ledge as by those who have passed their lives in the pursuit of big game. Not that I am suggesting that the knowledge derived from my own experiences of big-game shooting can compare with those of such past masters in the art as the two great sporting writers whom I have quoted, for such is very far from my intention. At the same time, I may say, without fear of contradiction, that I have had exceptional advan- tages, in the matter of opportunities for judging of the merits of sporting weapons of all kinds and of studying the habits of most wild animals which come under the definition of big game. I was also specially fortunate in having as my mentor for some years that prince of sportsmen, Colonel Probyn, under whom, as I have already stated, I served during the earlier period of my Indian career, and whom I eventually succeeded in his dual appointment of Bhil Agent and Tiger Slayer, when, having reached the age of fifty-five, he was obliged by the rules of the Service, to retire. One of his last official acts before retiring was to pass a strong recommendation to the Government that I should be appointed to succeed him, and thus, despite my youth © and comparative inexperience, obtained for me the 26 THE BHIL AGENT AND HIS DUTIES much-coveted and, from my point of view, most interesting appointment in the Service. The District of Khandesh, at the time of which I write, - was a wild tract of country some 15,000 square miles in _ area, bordered on the north by the Satpuda range, a - mountain tract from thirty to forty miles wide, teeming _ with wild animals, especially tigers and panthers, and _ peopled by a once savage race of men, the Bhils, whom _ Government gradually weaned from savagery by the wise _ policy of free grants of land, seed and cattle, which induced _ them to settle down as cultivators. Since the beginning _ of British rule these people had always given trouble, and _ an attempt to bring them to order by force having failed, _ the above measures were adopted, in addition to enlisting E them in special corps. The inherent lawless spirit of these _ wild men, however, necessitated the constant presence of _ a British officer amongst them, hence the appointment of a _ Bhil Agent, whose duties were heavy and varied, e.g., such _ gangs as were still in revolt had to be reduced and kept in _ order, offenders punished or committed for trial, disputes _ to be settled and complaints redressed, saving them from _ the clever and unscrupulous money-lenders, the Gujars, of whom mention has already been made, etc., ete., ___ I was very fortunate in being selected for the appoint- ment of Agent, as the wandering life amongst the hill men suited me to perfection, and gave me many opportunities of acquiring a knowledge of their feelings and customs which often proved of immense value in my official duties, while as to jungle-lore and wood-craft, the information I derived from them was both in quantity and quality such as it would be impossible to obtain from any other source, for living as these men do in close companionship, 80 to speak, with the animal denizens of the jungle, the knowledge they possess of wild beasts and their ways, is naturally much greater than that of any other natives T have met. But if the information and experience I had thus aec- a at of such value to me in the discharge of my Bhil | duties, they were of infinitely greater value in my = sage bie Tiger Slayer, as was only natural since the know- 3 I had gained enabled me in time to supervise efficiently 27 a Ye ay ee rege eo, TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the work of my shikaris and even, when the necessity arose, as it sometimes did, to track and locate a tiger myself, or tell by a glance at its pugs whether they were fresh or some hours old, accomplishments which, though most useful to the hunters of big game, few Europeans take the trouble to acquire. To me, however, all the details of my work as Tiger Slayer had an extraordinary fascination, and, next to my old chief through whose influence I had obtained it, I often found myself blessing the individual who had created this appointment. The post—probably the only one of its kind in all India —was held, as I have already mentioned, in conjunction with that of Bhil Agent, and as far as I could gather from inquiries and perusal of old records, had been originally created to meet a pressing necessity due to the increase of wild animals in the District. In those disturbed times at the beginning of the last century, large tracts of land in Khandesh passed from villages into forest from which tigers roamed and dealt destruction in the very heart of the District. In 1822, for example, five hundred human beings and twenty thousand head of cattle were destroyed by wild animals, tigers being the principal destroyers. This wholesale destruction of human beings and cattle, which had apparently been going on for some time, led to some stringent preventive measures being adopted, for I found that during the months of May, June and July of that year, no less than sixty tigers were killed. In spite of these efforts, which were apparently made by Sir James Outram and his successors, tigers and other beasts of prey continued in such large numbers that the fear of them kept waste and desolate some of the richest tracts in Khandesh. Even as late as 1857 this District, more than almost any part of Western India, continued as a stronghold for wild beasts. Indeed, so dangerous and destructive had they become, that at length a special party of the Bhil Corps were especially deputed as tiger hunters and placed at the disposal of the then Super- — intendent of Police and Bhil Agent for the destruction of these animals. When I took up the appointment this special party © 28 | OFFICIAL SKIKARIS — - consisted of forty men of the Bhil Corps, to which were _ attached two Government elephants, to be used to shoot _ off or as beaters. In addition to this official staff, I had my own shikaris, four excellent individuals to whom _ owed a great deal of my success and are therefore entitled to be honourably mentioned. A description of them, _ therefore, will be found in the next chapter. Lana CHAPTER V A description of my shikaris—A reliable quartette—The wild man of the woods—aA true Aborigine—My first introduction to him—The palaver —Brother Shikaris—Become the best of friends—His progress in life —The tiger, and how to get him—The best season for tiger-shooting —Baiting the jungles—Looking up the baits—Tracking by foot- prints—Stops on trees—The drive—Monkeys and peacocks as guides —Random shooting to be avoided—Following up a wounded tiger— Dangerous but necessary—Precautions to be taken—The art of track- ing—How to be acquired—Difficult at first—Hyena or panther—How a tiger can be distinguished from a tigress—An adventure on the Satpuda hills—A tigress and her cubs—Arranging the beat—The tigress viewed—A beater charged—Seeks refuge in a tree—Seized by the leg—I go to the rescue—The wounded man sent into camp— Tigress takes cover—Refuses to come out—We attack her in her stronghold—aA furious charge and subsequent retreat—Darkness sets in—We leave her for the night. THE names of the four shikaris referred to were Etoo, Gungdya, Bapu and Sabha, and a pluckier or more reliable quartette would be difficult to find. Etoo was a Havildar, or Sergeant, in the Bhil Corps. He belonged to a family of shikaris, and his father before him had been Probyn’s favourite gun-carrier in the days of muzzle loaders. His son, Gungdya, a chip of the old block, was also a private in the corps, a quiet unassuming man, but cool and self-possessed withal. He was also an excellent shot. Bapu, a real wild man of the woods, I picked up one day in rather a curious fashion when shooting in the Barwanee jungles of H.H. the Holkar. A true aborigine, he had literally lived all his life amongst wild beasts, and possessed the most extraordinary knowledge of their habits. As a tracker he was unequalled. It was about Christmas time in 1888 that I first met him. I was out one evening in the hills looking for sambar, when I saw in the dense jungle below me what at first appeared to be a bear. 30 A WILD MAN OF THE WOODS _ Closer examination with my glasses, however, revealed to me a nude savage, who, armed with a rude bow some six feet long, was crawling on his hands and knees, evidently _ stalking a bakri—jungle sheep. . I sent my men to fetch him, and after a deal of palaver, _ he came dragging the little antelope which he had success- _ fully stalked. Patting him on the shoulder, and telling him that we were brother shikaris, I induced him to - accompany me to my tents where I gave him some food, _ and we were soon the best of friends. : Bapu subsequently became much attached to me, _ professing to have great faith in my prowess as a shikari. _ Before leaving the province I enlisted him in the Bhil Corps, which I eventually commanded, and I heard later _ that he had by his good conduct risen to the rank of ’ Sabha first joined my service as a dog boy, but seeing _ his keenness for sport, I enrolled him as a shikari, much to his delight. He and Gungdya were always my greatest allies, and both afterwards accompanied me on a shooting expedition to East Africa, of which an account will be _ given later. * * * cm * * While on the subject of shikaris, it will not, I trust, be considered out of place to give some description of tiger shooting and of the various methods employed for cir- cumventing these wily animals, by no means an easy task, as every sportsman who has had any experience of this sport will readily admit. These methods necessarily vary according to the nature of the country, the kind of jungle to be beaten, the season of the year, any known peculiarities of the particular animal being hunted, etc., etc., but the following remarks, agg may be applied to panthers also, will give a general — a lt te SR agi at | The best season for shooting tigers is during the hottest _ months of the year—March, April, May—when the jungles are burnt and the scarcity of water drives all game to the immediate proximity of the rivers and pools, ete. [have always held that baiting the country, as described below, brings more game to bag than any other plan, though 81 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER it should be remembered that both tigers and panthers will often refuse to kill a tied-up bullock, especially in jungles where game such as deer or hog are anything like plentiful ; but these are idiosyncrasies which have to be ignored. The presence of a tiger having been ascertained by its fresh footprints, etc., some young buffaloes should be procured and tied up early in the afternoon at the most likely places, such as meeting of paths or ravines, and near pools of water if there happen to be any. Towards eight or nine o’clock, when the sun is powerful, the baits should be examined, and if one has been killed, the sportsman with one or two good trackers, should quietly approach the spot and endeavour to find out where the tiger’s or leopard’s pugs or tracks lead to. Should they lead into a thick covert or rocks where the animal is supposed to have lain up, the ground for some distance round should be carefully examined, and, if no footprints are found leading out, men must be silently posted on trees, at twenty or thirty paces’ interval, as stops to prevent the game — from slipping away unobserved up one of the smaller side ravines or paths leading to the covert. This is a most necessary precaution, and the carrying out of it should therefore be personally supervised by the sportsman as on the way these stops are placed may depend the success or failure of the beat, for tigers, if not disturbed, will remain near their kill for two or three days, sometimes even longer (it all depends on the size of the animal killed), hence if well ringed round will probably be bagged. A gorged tiger is easy to beat out as he is lazy and slow in his move- ments, The guns must now be placed so as to command any pass or passes leading to the cover for which the tiger is likely to make when started, and the beaters will then commence to beat the jungle at some distance from the spot where they know or believe the tiger to be lying up, for if roused suddenly it may, if not too gorged with meat, rush too quickly past the guns to allow of a sure shot. In driving a ravine, it should be remembered that a tiger will, almost invariably, come along the bank in preference to down the bed. If during the drive any 382 ET Rts ieee dale i in Oa al iN NR a Be HINTS ON TIGER SHOOTING monkeys or peacocks are heard giving their peculiar cry of alarm, it may be safely assumed that there is a tiger or panther in the beat. that the drive has been properly managed, there should be no difficulty in bagging the tiger, for it is a large mark to fire at and will probably come along at a jog trot or slow walk. Care should however be taken not to fire at it too hurriedly and certainly not until it is well opposite — post (tree or ledge of rock) so as to make a certainty of him. : If the sportsman fires too excitedly or too soon he will _ probably miss or, worse still, merely wound the animal, _ which would then most likely break back on to the beaters, who, it must be remembered, are usually only armed with _ sticks, striking down any so unfortunate as to be in its way, and possibly inflicting fatal injuries. Hence in tiger _ hunting random shooting should never be indulged in; _ on the contrary, every shot fired must be well considered _ and intended to strike a vital spot. ‘ Should the tiger unfortunately get away wounded, it _ must be followed at all costs, though not necessarily at once. And it is here that the value of an elephant comes in, for it is obviously safer for the sportsman to follow mounted on an elephant than on foot. Nevertheless, I maintain that the absence of an elephant is no excuse for _ abandoning the pursuit, though I have often heard it said _ that to follow a wounded tiger on foot is what no sane _ sportsman should do. _ I have no wish to take up a hostile attitude in this _ matter, nor do I pretend to the possession of a courage — than that required of any ordinary sportsman, I do not consider any man should wage war with ‘Savage beasts unless he is prepared to take some sporting risks, and it is not a very sportsmanlike proceeding to leave 4 wounded animal in the jungle—perhaps to die a lingering -death—no matter whether the beast is a tiger or a hare! __ Moreover, I maintain that if proper precautions be observed, a wounded tiger may be followed up on foot without excessive risk. In the first place it should be given 10 time to bleed to death or for its wounds to stiffen so as to __ render the animal less effective. Then, before advancing, D 33 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the direction the beast has taken must be definitely as- certained by examining each footprint, and looking for the faintest speck of blood on fallen leaves and bushes against which it may have brushed. Any thick cover, too, from which the animal might make a sudden onslaught should be very carefully approached, with the rifle not only at full cock, but held ready for instant use, and lastly, the sportsman should be accompanied by some men who may be relied on to stand firm; for even a wounded tiger will seldom make good its charge if boldly faced. I would therefore impress on all young sportsmen desirous of becoming successful big-game hunters, the necessity of invariably following up and killing any animal they have wounded, not only because by doing so they put the poor beast out of pain, and incidentally secure a sporting trophy, but in addition, probably save some human lives, for wounded animals such as tigers, leopards, bears or bison are always a source of danger to any natives in the neighbourhood, who might inadvertently come upon them while seeking for cattle or firewood in the jungle in which they are lying up. There is yet another practice to which every would-be hunter of big game should, if he wishes to succeed as such, devote his attention and study to acquire, and that is, the — art of tracking. It is, doubtless, difficult to learn, but by constantly accompanying his men when scouring the — jungles for game, and carefully observing various marks or indications of where an animal has been, he will in course © of time be able to decipher them with ease. He will find it very difficult at first to distinguish — between the footprints of various beasts, and may find — himself mistaking the track of a goat for a boar or those © of a hyena for a panther, but time and experience will over- — come these difficulties, and he will ultimately be surprised to find how easily he is able to discriminate between foot- — prints much less distinguishable even than these, as, for — instance, those of a tiger from a tigress, which though apparently very similar, are to the practised eye quite : different, the former being much squarer, especially if the animal is old, whilst those of the tigress are more oval in shape. 34 i — A TIGRESS AND HER CUBS And now having, to the best of my ability, endeavoured to initiate the reader into the mysteries of tiger shooting as practised in the Presidency of Bombay, I will go on to relate some of my own experiences and adventures with these animals, both during my term of office as Tiger _ Slayer to Government and subsequently in my ordinary official life as a District Police Officer. To give an account of every tiger I have slain would _ make as tiring reading as it would be tedious to record.* I will confine myself therefore to recounting such incidents _ only as were specially exciting, or tend to confirm the _ opinion I have expressed as to the merit or defects of the _ various rifles I have referred to in the preceding chapter. To begin then with an adventure I experienced while _ encamped at the village of Langdi Bawanee, a deserted _ Bhil hamlet in the Satpuda Hills. : I was out one morning looking for sambar, when we _ came on the fresh tracks of a tigress and two cubs, leading _ to a deep, rocky ravine, banked on either side by high por and reeds. Having only a couple of men with me, _ I sent to the nearest village, six miles distant, for some _ beaters. 4 By the time these arrived it was nearly 5 p.m., so as _ there was little time to lose, I selected a tree, at the lower end of the covert, and, mounting into it, told the beaters to drive the tigress towards me. _ As the men came along the tigress showed herself for an instant, and then retiring under a mass of green foliage, _ lay perfectly still. ___ Making a signal to the beaters with my hand, indicating _ the position which the tigress had taken up, I waited _ patiently. Presently one of the men, neglecting my ex- press instructions to keep well together, approached the spot alone from above and throwing a stone into the foliage was promptly charged by the tigress. _ He ran for some trees, where his comrades had taken refuge on hearing the tigress roar, closely followed by the infuriated beast. Two more strides and she would have i i ental la _ ® Mr. Digby Davies has shot to his own rifle over 250 tigers and has assisted at the destruction of many others. i. 85 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER caught him up, but at this moment he had fortunately reached the tree, and seizing a branch, swung himself up. The tigress, however, by getting a momentary hold for her claws on the trunk, seized him by the leg, inflicting two deep wounds, but luckily the man held on, for had he loosed his grip nothing could have saved him. I had a perfect view of these proceedings from my tree, but the distance—about ninety yards—was too great for accurate shooting, and by the time I had climbed down and reached the spot, the tigress had gone back into the cover whence she had charged. We bandaged up the man, and making a litter of boughs, sent him off to camp. Meanwhile, the tigress could be heard growling savagely in the covert, and thinking she would probably repeat her tactics, and so give me a shot, I quietly mounted the tree on which the man had been, while the Bhils bombarded her with stones, but failed to make her move. There was nothing for it now but to walk her up, in other words, to attack her in her stronghold, so, collecting a few likely looking men, we approached the spot, but had not gone very far, when out she rushed with a loud roar, — and before I had time to fire had gained the shelter of an overhanging ledge of rock, disappearing into some dense — jungle below, where I had to leave her for the night. 7 MAN-EATERS ; boldly, first creeping up to them with a rapid, stealthy _. These pests of the jungle, happily now rare, are usually old tigers and invariably ex-cattle lifters who, having ql the neighbourhood of villages and become _ accustomed to the presence of men, begin by carrying off _ some wretched unsuspecting cowherd or wood-cutter, and _| having thus discovered that killing human beings is easier | work than cattle or game, take to man eating as a source | of subsistence. 4 It is an error to suppose, by the way, that man-eaters _ are invariably mangy or lean, for, on the contrary, they _/are usually in prime condition, with bright and glossy _ coats, excellent as trophies. Unfortunately, however, the _ rapidity and uncertainty of a man-eater’s movements _ always make it difficult to bring one to bag. * * * * * = Towards the end of April, ’88, I was encamped at Mitagaon on the borders of the Barwanee territory. This place, owing to innumerable deep and tortuous ravines, filled with long grass and thorny bushes, was notorious for the number of tigers in its vicinity, and in one year I had killed thirty-one to my own rifle, and helped to slay several more. The day after my arrival at the camp, khabbar * was brought to me of a tiger having killed a buffalo a short distance off. I started immediately for the spot, and _ taking up the tracks, marked the beast down in a small _ fullah. I sent in the beaters, and, there being no suitable tree available, had to await the drive on foot. Ea The shouts of the beaters soon disclosed the fact that _ the animal was started, and presently a very large tiger emerged from the cover, and leisurely walked past me, about fifteen yards away, thus presenting a large and easy which I could scarcely fail to hit. I fired at once my ‘500 Express, rolling him over like a rabbit, the bullet of pure lead having entered close behind the shoulder and smashed the heart to pieces. _ Here was thus an instance of a tiger being killed by a single bullet, and yet, only two days later, with this my a * News. TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER rifle, I shot a tigress through the brain, but she held on, and with undiminished speed, for fully thirty yards before ; she fell ! This—with the case described in the earlier pages of this chapter—shows how tenaciously at times the larger — beasts of prey will cling to life, thus rendering their pursuit — so dangerous to the sportsman when on foot. Sucl tenacity to life, however, is fortunately rare, for,asagenera _ rule, a shot if well placed will, even if not instantly fata’ at any rate put the animal out of action. Nevertheles) — accidents in tiger shooting, as with polo or any oth: dangerous form of sport, must occasionally occur, ant : sometimes most unexpectedly as the following inciden will show. I was once encamped at Pansunba—also in the Bar- — wanee territory—when my men who had been out as usual ~ looking for tracks, reported the presence of a tigress and — q two cubs in a broad, sandy ravine not very far off. On my arrival there I found the ravine in question ran between two sloping banks, both covered with high grass and reeds. Placing some men on trees to drive the tigress back, should she attempt to break up either side, I took my post on a tree at the furthest end of the cover. Knowing the danger they ran in beating up a tigress with cubs, 1 cautioned the beaters to keep well together and distributed amongst them some spare guns which I had loaded with buck shot. I had scarcely taken up my position when I heard loud shouts, followed by a succession of savage roarings from the tigress. Presently one of the stops at the upper end © of the covert signalled that the tigress had broken back and gone up the bank ; however, the beaters still came on, driving before them a three-quarter grown cub which I promptly rolled over. I then left my tree, and accompanied by my two trusty shikaris, Bapu and Etoo, proceeded in the direction the tigress had gone, with the intention of taking up her tracks and marking her down again if possible. Guided by the men on trees, we cautiously approached the spot where she was last seen and were carefully 40 } ig insert “ on. “ “remember” and “ one, line 3, for “ boxes,” read “ hoaxes. I AM MAULED BY A TIGRESS ee - examining the ground, when we were startled by a deafening roar, compen followed by the tigress who came charging down the bank, and at such speed that her belly almost touched the ground. ___ Stepping forward, clear of some bushes, I had barely time to aim, but succeeded in getting as eats: Saale my rifle right into her face, which then was hardly three paces from me. However, she managed to get home, and the next moment I was on my back with the tigress standing ‘over me growling savagely. _ I remembered nothing more, but on coming to found ‘myself surrounded by Bhils and my lete antagonist | dead at my feet—a fine, heavy beast with a rich dark T now learnt that on the tigress seizing me, Bapu had most : run in and shot her through the “sain! all this having been the work of a few seconds. __. My chest and arms were badly clawed and bitten, but the wounds were not so serious as they might have been, thanks to the crippled condition of the tigress, whose ower jaw had been literally blown to pieces by my shots, and to the cool and plucky Bapu, who with great presence vor had shot her before she could do me further The men now bandaged me up with strips torn off their hing, and making a litter of boughs, carried me back camp, distant some eight miles, where I had my wounds ended to by the native apothecary in charge of the nsembal Dispensary. Eventually, under the skilful atment of Colonel B——, Civil Surgeon of Dhulia, I overed entirely from my wounds. The rifle I had been using was a 450 Express, carrying light hollow bullet, lent me by miy poor friend G—— of he Forest Department, who was afterwards killed by a ager. This bullet being so hollow had completely broken Had I had my Rigby, which was unfortunately in sag of the gun-maker at the time, I am confident ng heavy bullet would have stopped the tigress, Te ay killed her instantaneously, as on examining the found both my shots had struck her fairly between e nostrils, from which there is a clear passage to the in 41 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER However, I was glad enough to have got off so cheaply — as I had, for the death-roll of sportsmen killed by tigers in © Khandesh was very heavy about this time, amongst them H of the Civil Service, K , Royal Army Medical Corps, and others whose names I have forgotten, besides G——., already mentioned, who, like myself, had been only slightly mauled, but blood poisoning setting in, had died within a week. A fine sportsman he was, too, and a great loss to the district. Another instance of a light bullet from a small bore failing to inflict a fatal wound, was on one occasion when I was shooting in the Satpuda range of hills. I had strolled out one evening, accompanied by my dog-boy—a lad of about ten years of age—to look for chinkara, or ravine deer, in some scrub jungle near my camp. Not expecting to meet with any big game, I had taken only my single ‘400 Express and half a dozen cartridges. A short distance from the tents was a deep, rocky ravine, choked with dense bushes and masses of creeping plants. As we were skirting round this, we suddenly heard some monkeys at the extreme end of the covert uttering their harsh, peculiar cry of alarm, and thinking they had probably seen a panther, we cautiously approached the spot, keeping a sharp look out. Crawling on hands and knees, we had almost reached the end of the ravine, and I was searching the ground for tracks, when the boy, catching me by the arm, pointed to some rocks above us. At the same moment I saw a large tiger picking his way leisurely among the boulders, about twenty yards to my front, and evidently quite unconscious of our presence. I fired at once, striking him in the ribs. Unfortunately, my foot slipping at the moment on some stones prevented my swinging the rifle as far forward as I had intended, with the result that the bullet struck the animal a little too far back. Quickly pushing in another cartridge, I fired again, smashing his forearm. cee This brought him rolling down the slope to within ten yards of where we stood, but I now reserved my fire, for when we first saw the tiger I had only three cartridges left, 42 A PERILOUS SITUATION a ee Agar? __ Meanwhile, my small dog-boy, terrified out of his young Senses, h had closed up to me for protection, and no wonder, | his years, for the tiger was now growling “savagely and biting his injured leg in impotent rage, as - wounded tigers often do. __ Presently, he sat up on his haunches, like a huge dog, and looking in our direction, I knew at once that he had Seen us. Drawing himself back, with body arched, ears laid flat, lips drawn up, exposing his long white fangs, and eyes flashing fire, he fixed his gaze upon us. This was certainly one of the most perilous situations I have been _in, for truly the beast was an awe-inspiring spectacle, and “I felt my heart beating considerably quicker than its wont, as I thought of the light rifle in my hands, and how ineffective it had shown itself to be. Still I reserved my fire, expecting every moment that the beast would charge when I intended to blaze into his face, and trust to luck, but presently, and to my intense aod he stood up, and then, slowly retracing his steps over the rocks, disappeared from view. I now sent off the boy to camp to fetch my heavy rifle, and as many men as he could collect. By the time they thee the sun had almost set, nevertheless, we took up _ the blood tracks into some high grass where one of the men _ who on climbed on to a tree called out that he could see . Pteeding the man my rifle, I climbed up too into the ree, and soon made out the beast in a crouching position in my direction. Taking a steady aim, I fired and shot him through the neck. _ He was a large heavy tiger, measuring nine feet five ‘inches as he lay. My first bullet had struck him in the ribs being light and expanding, had merely inflicted a _wound. My second had shattered his forearm, ould not have prevented him from charging not finished him with the heavy rifle. CHAPTER VIL A rare chance—A bull bison and a tiger—Hopes of a record—“ Right and — left ’—Beating on spec—The bull bison viewed—Changing my rifle — —About to pull the trigger—The tiger appears on the scene—An — unparalleled situation—A chance of making history—Another change — of rifles—Fatal hesitation—The tiger alarmed—Making off at a gallop — —A difficult shot—The record unachieved—The tigress shot—The — light rifle scores for once—Another tiger killed—Evidence in favour of the heavier weapon—Experience gained as tiger slayer—Some — remarks on tigers—Varieties of the species—Hot and cold weather — coats—Colour a sign of age—Muscular development—* Lucky bones ”” —Cattle-killing and hill tigers—Difference in weight and size—Length of tigers—Methods of measurement—Age difficult to determine— — How a tiger kills its prey—Manner of eating—Not necessarily nocturnal — in its habits—An example—The tiger’s attack—Wounds generally fatal—Time of breeding—Number of cubs produced—Devouring their young—Feeding the cubs—Cubs as pets—Tiger fat and rheumatism — —Milk of tigress as medicine—Adventures of a sample—Legends — and superstitions—A curiosity in tigers—Declared a new species— — The mystery solyed—Disillusion. Ir was seldom, even in the India of thirty years ago—a period when its jungles were swarming with big game— that a sportsman had the luck to find himself simultaneously confronted with two such noble quarry as a bull bison and a tiger! Yet such was the rare, though somewhat em- barrassing, situation I was placed in one evening when out shooting near my camp. I was returning home after a fruitless search for bison accompanied by my henchman Bapu, when we came across his co-tracker Etoo, and the remainder of the men, who had been in a different direction, also looking for tracks. They informed us that they had come on the fresh pugs * of a tiger early in the morning and had followed them to the edge of a hill where, the ground being hard and stony, they had lost them. * Footprints. 44 a ins eres - CHANCE OF A POSSIBLE “RECORD” MISSED As this hill was but a short distance up and there was yet sufficient light, I decided to beat it on spec. We accordingly made for the spot where, taking up my position near a tree with Bapu beside me, I told the rest to go round and work over the hill towards us. Parallel to, and at the foot of the hill, was a dry water-course, the far side of which was covered with dense reed and ; : : had my ‘500 Express as well as a 10-bore rifle, which _ Bapu was carrying, the latter being intended for the bison os hitherto failed to find. 4 had the men reached the top of the hill, which was studded with teak trees and bush, when I saw a _ walking along the water-course directly for our tree, which _he passed to the left, about five paces’ distant. Quickly exchanging the Express for the 10-bore, I had _ covered his massive shoulder, and was about to press the trigger, when Bapu suddenly drew my attention to a huge ger which was trotting down the hill immediately opposite The position was now a difficult and most perplexing one, for here was I with a bull bison to my left and a tiger to my right, free to shoot at either, perhaps at both, and thus, with luck, create perhaps a record “right and ; ” ! _ It was an achievement by no means impossible, but rtunately not destined to come off. * Deciding to take the tiger, I foolishly changed rifles again, and quietly as this was done, the movement was sufficient to betray us. The tiger, now only some twelve yards off, detected — usat oh 7 swerving abruptly to the left, went lumbering BY the hill. __ He passed me at a fast gallop. I managed, however, to hit him, and on receiving the shot, he lurched heavily forward but held on, and entering a thick bamboo jungle | ing the hill, was soon lost to view. As it was too late now to follow him, we postponed the to the next morning, when we took up his tracks. e found a few drops of blood at first, but after a time these ceased to show, and though we followed up the pugs for a z 45 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER considerable distance, we were finally obliged to abandon — the search. | Probably the tiger had merely received a flesh wound © from which, as I did not get him, I hoped he would | eventually recover, and that we might meet again some day ! : The bison, no doubt, had made off earlier in the pro- ceedings—at any rate, I have no recollection of having — seen him after transferring my attention to the tiger. Thus ended an incident which, had fortune favoured — me, might have proved better worth recording, but though © I failed to achieve what would, probably, have been a record “right and left,” yet the situation in itself was so unique that I make no apology for describing it. * % *% * % When out shooting on one occasion with B of the © policein the Ghorisgaon jungles (Khandesh), we had wounded — a tigress and followed her up into some very thick jungle. | So dense was the cover that we had to hack our way to where the tigress lay. Suddenly we came upon her, crouch- — ing within five paces of us, and opening fire at once, rolled — her over dead. Fortunately she did not charge, or she would certainly — have left her mark on one, or both, of us. It was a broken — hip, no doubt, that prevented her from doing so, for at — such extremely close quarters, it is seldom that a wounded © tiger fails to take the offensive. She was a fine beast, — measuring eight feet six inches, and it was with some difficulty that we dragged the carcase out of the dense cover. . On another occasion I was beating for bakri * in a strip — of jungle, when suddenly a fine tiger put in his appearance. — I was on foot and armed with a light, single-barrelled rifle, but the chance was too good a one to lose. The tiger was — standing facing me about fifteen yards off, so taking a steady aim between the eyes, I fired, and lurching heavily — forward, he fell stone dead. Hearing the shot the beaters came running up, expecting — to find I had “‘ bagged ” the bakri, and were consequently — * Jungle sheep. 46 ( ADVANTAGES OF A HEAVY RIFLE much amazed to see me standing over a tiger instead—and a fine one at that, the animal measuring nine feet eight Si ohies: On walking through the covert later, we found he had killed one of the beasts I had been looking for, and had eaten the greater portion. _ The above was seemingly a distinct score for the advocates of light rifles taking a hollow bullet, but in point of fact this incident was no proof of its efficiency, for had there been tough twigs, or even reeds, intervening between the tiger and myself, ti the light bullet would probably have been deflected, whereas with a heavier projectile such obstruction would not necessarily have affected its course. As an example of this I may quote the following incident. _ I was once following up a wounded tiger, when we ‘suddenly came upon him, crouching behind a clump of ‘bamboos, the tough stems of which partly protected his head and shoulders. In these circumstances to fire at the beast, with any certainty of killing him at once, was xtremely problematical. rid there was no time to wait for a more favourable OPT nity, as from the quick, twitching movement of “- tail, I could tell that the tiger was on the point of hargin Z, SO, aiming at as much of the ee as I could see, : : Subsequent examination showed that the heavy, solid bullet, driven by six drams of powder, crashing through serous obstructing twigs, had struck him half-way een the nostrils and the eyes. Had it been a lighter, w bullet, it would either have been deflected by the igs, or broken up completely. _ I hardly deserved this tiger, however, for I had missed him badly the day before, though this was possibly due to “my being somewhat shaky at the time from repeated attacks | ie toves and, moreover, had not quite recovered from ‘the mauling I had received, as described in a previous . In a second beat, however, I had managed to in the ribs, but too far back, and it was only after weary miles of tracking with my men, that we had finally ome on to him. 47 q : TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER This incident brings me to the end of my list of exciting — or out-of-the-way adventures experienced with tigers in Khandesh, for though I shot many more of these animals while employed in that district, none of them, so far as I remember, gave me any trouble to secure, nor was the — pursuit of them attended by any circumstances of sufficient — interest to relate. : During my long term of office there as tiger slayer, however, I had, as I have already observed, quite excep- tional opportunities for acquiring a knowledge of the habits, etc., of these animals, not only by personal obser- vation, but by talking to and questioning the Bhils, than — whom, as a people, there are none better informed on this” subject. As much of this information thus acquired would possibiy be of interest, and certainly of some value, to any sports- man who may be contemplating a shooting trip to India, — I will, before closing this chapter, give a brief résumé from | notes I made from time to time. To begin with, there is, as, I believe, universally acknowledged, but one species of tiger, though varying” a good deal in size and colour, those found in Northern China and Korea or Manchuria, for example, being said ; to be larger, and have certainly thicker coats than those 4 of India, nature’s provision, no doubt, for the colder — climate they inhabit, for tigers killed during the cold weather in India, too, have a much richer coat, the fur being closer and longer than of those shot in the hot weather. i Tigers in India become lighter in colour from age, the — stripes becoming narrower, fainter, and further apart as — their age increases. g The muscular development of a tiger is enormous, and — there are two curiously bent bones, about four inches long, ~ disconnected with any other bones, embedded in the flesh — and muscle of either shoulder, that give extra strength — and cohesion to the parts. These clavicle bones—called — by Europeans “lucky bones ’—are much prized by the | natives as charms. The weight of a tiger is between four and five hundred pounds, but varies considerably according to the locality — 48 | § BULL BUFFALO. [To face p. 48 (Central Provinces.) ‘TIGERS AND THEIR WAYS in which they are found. The cattle-lifter or cattle-killing _ tiger is usually heavier and in better condition, preg as it does chiefly on cattle, than the game-killing or hill - tiger, which lives principally on game, and is usually a lighter and more active beast because of it having to travel longer distances for its food. I have, however, killed very large. hill tigers in jungles where such game as wild pig or _sambar were plentiful. ___ The length of a tiger depends greatly on the manner in _ which it is measured, for a skin can be stretched to almost any length. Of the numerous number of tigers I have shot, none exceeded ten feet two inches, and I can only remember one of that length, shot in the Central Provinces, the average length being nine feet six inches. In measuring a tiger, care should be taken that the measurement is in _a straight line from nose to tip of tail and not round the ; curves as measurements are taken in Bengal. __. The average age to which a tiger lives is, I believe, ! twenty years. It is always difficult to tell the age except _ by the size, faintness of the stripes, and the discoloured _ appearance of the teeth or fangs. In killing cattle or game, the tiger invariably fixes its Sclaws and teeth into the flesh to obtain the necessary * then seizing the throat in his jaw from under- Tearing gives the fatal wrench which dislocates the neck, ppearing down its victim by sheer weight. Human beings are earably seized by the head or neck. In eating its prey the tiger always commences at the hindquarters. The exact spot where the first mouthful will b be taken can be told with certainty. After and during _ the meal the tiger drinks largely. _ ‘Tigers are not necessarily nocturnal in their habits. Phey hunt by day as well as by night. I recall on one ‘Occasion tying up a young buffalo, as bait for a tiger early : in the afternoon. Shortly after we had left the spot, _ We were startled by a roar and on returning found the tiger had already killed the buffalo and dragged it into a Tuillah close by! Strangely enough, we did not get that tiger, though we beat for him twice ! The attack of a tiger is terrific, as may be imagined from an animal of such vast muscular proportions, one of E 49 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the most powerful elements in the attack being the startling, coughing roar with which it is invariably accompanied, a sound so intense in volume and ferocity as to be almost paralyzing to the coolest, and once heard can never be forgotten or mistaken for any other sound. Wounds from a tiger’s teeth or claws are very often fatal, blood poisoning usually setting in, besides the shock to the system which is naturally very great. Tigers do not breed at any fixed seasons. I have taken cubs in April and October—on two occasions four at a litter, but this is unusual, three being the more common number, and occasionally two. The cubs, as with pups and kittens, are born blind. Tigers not infrequently devour their young, hence it — is seldom that a tigress with young cubs will be found in the same jungle with her mate. A tigress remains with her ~ cubs till they are almost full grown and able to take care — of themselves. While under her charge she is most — assiduous in teaching them to kill. When very young she — feeds them with gobbets of half-digested flesh which she — disgorges on her return from hunting. I was once an ~ eye-witness to this interesting performance while watching, — unperceived, a tigress with her cubs. Tiger cubs make charming pets if taken young. Ihave — reared several, but have never kept them for any length of ~ time. They thrive best on raw meat. The fat of a tiger is considered by the natives a valuable cure for rheumatism, — as also is milk taken from a tigress. I remember one occasion, while following the tracks of a bison, coming upon the deserted lair of a tigress, where — amongst other evidence of her recent occupation, the ~ Bhils discovered some white, chalky-looking substance. q They collected this with delight, exclaiming that it was ~ tiger’s milk and would command a good price inthe market as medicine. It seems that the tigress had apparently been deserted ~ by her cubs, and the overflow of milk had solidified. I — kept a small portion, which I sent to the Chemical Analyser _ to the Government of Bombay with a view to its being — examined, but received no reply. 50 —_ rere: serait Years afterwards, happening to meet this official, I q "SUPERSTITIONS REGARDING TIGERS i Gisoieed that the match-box containing this curious substance had not been opened, as it was believed to be _ one of the many boxes to which his particular department often fell a victim. He much regretted, however, having missed the opportunity of examining such a phenomenal i papecanen: | There are many other theories as to the traits or habits “of the tiger, which though doubtless founded on experi- _ ence as long, or even longer than my own, I have not quoted, _ as they do not happen to have come under my personal 5 I Sotice One such hypothesis, for example, is that a tiger : and tigress will sometimes hunt together, the one taking _ Another, that if a kill is handled by any human being, _ the tiger will not return to it; or again—though this is - more probably a native superstition—that if the animal _ killed by a tiger should happen to fall with its head pointing _ to the west, the tiger will abandon it, or at any rate will not return ! Before concluding these remarks on tigers and their ways, I am tempted to quote a curious incident which, $ it has no reference to the habits of these animals, a ‘yet proves how easily even sportsmen of experience may _ sometimes be deceived and led to imagine, from the seem- _ ingly good evidence before them, that they have discovered a new species. Here is the story as told to me by one who had read it in an old Indian sporting magazine. _ Many years ago a party of sportsmen in Bengal had shot a tiger, and on examining it later found it had ears like those of a crop-eared fox-terrier and a tail but a few ‘inches in length. _ After careful consideration, they solemnly pronounced “the beast to be a hitherto undiscovered species of the tiger, and reported their discovery in the magazine above quoted, _ and after some controversial correspondence on the subject, _ the strange animal! was finally accepted as a new species, ___ Meanwhile, a sportsman of an adjacent district, who | ed to have been on leave in England at the time, “geturned to India, and coming across the magazine, was a eA For a verification of this see the author's last work, ‘ Tigerland,” if 51 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER much interested to find that a new kind of tiger had been © discovered. J Suddenly, however, he remembered that some years — prior to the date on which this tiger had been shot, he — and a friend had captured a small cub, and one day, while — cutting the ears and tails of some terrier pups, had, on the — impulse of the moment, performed a similar operation on | the cub, which some months later had escaped and was — lost in an adjoining jungle! q 52 CHAPTER VIII Tie ste a policeman—A useful combination—Tracking a Dacoit leader—A troublesome gang—Eluding the police—In pursuit—My early morning visitor—A nude, wild figure—An unexpected meeting— _ A conditional surrender suggested—Offer of a drink—Sampling the _ brandy—Arrested in the act—Camp life in India—Tents—Council round the camp fire—Useful information thus acquired—A day in camp described—Fascination of the life—Camping near j _ Noises in the night as music to the sportsman—Possibilities of adventure, an example—A dinner interrupted—Face to face with a = —Dangerous curiosity—-Another camp adventure—A shooting camp disturbed—Besieged by a wild elephant—lIts threatening attitude —A thrilling moment—Suspense relieved—A well-considered shot— Comical conclusion—A Christmas camp—Some bears marked down —The beat begun—aA frock-coated sportsman—Charged by a bear— His headlong flight—Coat-tails flying—Caught in a creeper—A Scotch _ doctor to the rescue—A lucky fluke—‘‘ Get up, mon, I’ve shot the bar ”—Proud of his success—His boast. As Tiger Slayer to the Government in Khandesh, much of my time was necessarily devoted to the destruction of these animals, for to be successful in this work required great deal of personal attention to preliminary details. ‘hanks, however, to the efficiency of the inestimable s ou and his colleagues, this labour was considerably essened, enabling me to give the attention necessary for che » performance of my other duties as police-officer of the i in point of fact, however, I found that much of what I mnt while tiger-hunting, was of equal use to me as Super- itendent of Police, for to carry out efficiently the duties of “either office it was essentially necessary to mix freely with the people and to elicit from them the information : ruil i both cases. while ostensibly and actually inquiring as to the whereabouts of a tiger, I was often able to pick up useful information regarding the people of the village I asi TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER to be in, as for instance, any persons whom I had reason for supposing were secretly engaged in criminal pursuits. In this way I picked up on one occasion some valuable information about a Bhil named Lal-Sing, who subsequently — developed into a somewhat famous leader of Dacoits, and whose arrest was eventually accomplished in the following curious fashion. We had been troubled for some time by a gang of Dacoits supposed to be under the leadership of this man, who was a deserter from the Mawas, or Irregular Police. They had committed several murders, held up villages, stopped travellers on the roads, etc., etc., and when finally pressed by our special parties, the leader took refuge in the hills where it was impossible to locate him, though he was seen once or twice and fired at, but escaped. At length one night, while still engaged in the pursuit, I was asleep in a bungalow at Palasnair, a village at the foot of the hills, when I was awoke by a feeling as of some one near me, and in the dim morning light I saw a nude, wild — figure, armed with a bow and arrows. I asked him what he wanted, awaiting his answer with some interest, for I had by then recognized my visitor as being no less — important an individual than the famous Dacoit leader, Lal-Sing himself, the very person I was in pursuit of ! He said “ he had come to give himself up on condition that he was forgiven, and that I would keep him myself,” by which, I presume, he meant that I would not give him up to justice. He added “that he would return for my © answer, but that he must now rejoin his comrades, who were — awaiting him in a village some two miles off.” I replied “ that I was delighted to see him,” which was 4 true enough; then, knowing a Bhil’s weakness for alcoholic liquids, suggested he should have a drink before he went, — and producing a full bottle of brandy, handed it to him, after knocking off the top. While he was testing its con- ~ tents, swallowing the major portion in the process, I stole © out, and calling to the sentry—who, by the way, I found © asleep—we captured the sporting reprobate, who was — eventually sent up and tried, and being convicted, was © sentenced to a long term of imprisonment. 2 * o ES * 54 CAMP LIFE IN INDIA One of the pleasantest periods in the life of an Indian - Police Officer is that portion of it which, under the regu- lations, he is required to spend in touring through his district on inspection duty. This cold-weather tour, as it is termed officially, usually begins about the 15th - November and is continued, with short intervals at head- : till the end of March. During these four months the climate of India is at its very best, and is probably, at this season, the finest in _ the world, with day after day of brilliant sunshine, tempered _ by cool breezes, and the nights so cold and often frosty, _ that a fire is by no means a mere luxury, especially out in _ eamp, where, apart from the comfort it imparts, it serves to light up the surroundings as well as to purify the air which, after sunset, in the neighbourhood of jungles, is apt to be malarious. Camp life in India has often been described and, as it _ deserves to be, generally in glowing terms, since it would _ be difficult to imagine a condition of life more thoroughly _ enjoyable, for it must not be supposed that camping in India, in the sense referred to here, involves any of the hardships or discomforts such as one experiences in that _ questionable amusement known as “‘ camping out,” which some people, gifted with more energy than discretion, _ occasionally indulge in in England. On the contrary, for, in the first place, every official, whose duties include an annual tour of his district, is _ provided by Government with large, roomy tents, usually sufficient in number to allow of one being always sent on ahead, to be pitched on the new camping ground. Thus when marching from one encampment to another—usually _ done in the early morning—the official finds a comfortable Shelter awaiting him, as well as breakfast, for the cook, with his appliances, has come on during the night. The other tents and equipage, transported on many _ bullock carts, arrive some hours later, and before the night sets in, the tents are re-erected, their furniture ' arranged and the carts being paid up and discharged, the encampment is, to all appearances, as it was the day before _the move was made. Then, as the sun goes down, and the brief Indian 55 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER twilight is merging into darkness, comes a period of blissful inactivity passed lounging in a hammock-chair by the camp fire, discussing sport with the shikaris, may be, or in extracting information from the head men of the villages in the neighbourhood of the camp. Much useful information, whether concerning sport or crime, can be picked up in this way, for while voluble enough when talked to in this unofficial manner, natives are singu- larly reticent if they suspect they are being questioned for some specific purpose. Thus, at these camp-fire councils, the official not only picks up information which he could not otherwise obtain, but, what is as important, gains the confidence of the people, which once secured, is a valuable asset in all dealings with orientals, and one not easy to acquire by Europeans. But to continue. The most important function of the — day is dinner, which served in the cosy comfort of a warm, well-lighted tent, has little in it to suggest the primitive kitchen whence it issued, for though cooked in the open, — and on a range, ingeniously constructed out of clay, in the number and quality of the courses, it differs in no way from an ordinary meal. Nor in such matters as table linen, glass or plate, is any difference to be seen, and even the furniture, though — obviously of a kind made to take to pieces or roll up, is solid in appearance and comfortable in use. In fact, except for its poles and canvas walls, there is nothing much in the interior of the tent to distinguish it from that of an ordinary, plainly furnished room. In addition to this, the day or “ dining ” tent, which, by the way, is usually sent on the night before the camp is — . moved, there is the sleeping tent, a counterpart of the other, and being as comfortably furnished, makes as cosy a bed- room as any one could wish for. The general pattern of these tents is what is termed a — Swiss cottage, varying in size from twelve to fourteen feet square, with two poles, connected by a transverse ~ bar, or ridge pole, and having a verandah at either © end, the one at the back being enclosed to form a bath- — room. 56 There are two openings, or doors, in front, one on each Oe ee a et ee ee ee Le ee ne a A LEOPARD IN CAMP AT NIGHT during ‘ stiffened with lathes, for use at night, and as these are made __ In fact, as a place to sleep in, it would be difficult to _ find anything so snug and comfortable as these tents, and there is a fascination about this life too, for when, as _ often happens, the camp is pitched near a jungle, strange, _ awe-inspiring sounds are sometimes heard during the night, _ as, for instance, of a tiger calling to its mate, or the weird, _ rasping cry of a leopard on the prowl. _ These animals are probably some little distance from _ the camp, but in the stillness of the night, their cries sound _ as if the beasts were prowling round the tent. The situa- tion, therefore, is, to say the least of it, sufficiently exciting _ for the occupant, and if he is a sportsman, most fascinating _ too, for to him there is no music more entrancing than the _ call of a tiger or leopard in the night. But it must not be supposed that such experiences are _ common, for even when encamped in the midst of a dense forest, night after night may pass without a sound to indicate the presence of any animal within it, still, as few Indian forests are untenanted, there is always the a ility of this silence being suddenly dispelled by a ‘ *s awe-inspiring roar, or by the cry of some other _ beast as interesting from a sportsman’s point of view. _ As an example of how unexpectedly one may be con- _ fronted with wild animals, when encamped in the vicinity of a jungle, I may quote two incidents, both of which occurred to a friend of mine, a police officer in Bengal. On the first occasion, he and the district magistrate, while camping together in one of the wildest portions of _ their district, were seated one moonlight night at dinner, when suddenly there arose a loud, sharp, rasping cry, which, continuing for some seconds, seemed to come from _ just outside the tent. My friend, being the keener sports- _ man of the two, rushed out at once to find himself face to face with a huge leopard, which, evidently attracted by a dog inside the tent, was standing a few paces from the * A curtain made of thin bamboo strips strung closely together. ‘ 7 — ae ee Oe eh ee ee TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER door. Fortunately, however, it made no attempt to attack him, but turning quickly round, sneaked off into the jungle whence it came. It was a lucky escape, for in his eagerness to catch the beast in the act of uttering its curious, weird cry, my friend had run out unarmed. His next adventure, experienced a year or so later, was even more exciting, and might well have ended in disaster, if not to himself, to one or more of the twenty odd persons present at the time. On this occasion the scene of the adventure was a shooting camp, pitched on the borders of a large Govern- ment Reserve Forest, and the time, as before, while my friend and his guests were at dinner. The meal had just been served in the brilliantly lit-up — dining tent, when, suddenly, there was a tremendous — uproar in the camp, servants and camp followers all | shouting together, but producing no intelligible sounds, except for the two words “ Jungli Hati—Jungli Hati ” * which, repeated frequently, could be heard above the din. In a moment the dining tent was emptied of all but the two lady guests, the rest rushing out with one accord, most of them wondering, for the moment, what had ~ happened, for amongst them were some to whom the two © Hindustani words conveyed no information. My friend ran out with the others, but, mindful possibly — of his former indiscretion, called for his rifle, which with some cartridges were quickly brought to him by one of the ~ Khit-magar ¢ in attendance. Loading the weapon, he ~ followed the others to where the shouting crowd of natives — were assembled. There, standing about thirty paces from this crowd, and in the very centre of the camp, consisting of some half a dozen larger and several smaller tents, was a huge tusker elephant, coated from head to foot with mud from a pool in which it had evidently been wallowing. Whether frightened at the shouting, or merely confused — for the time, it stood perfectly still, its only movements — being a forward and backward motion of its huge ears — * Wild elephant. } Table servant, 58 a ADVENTURE WITH A WILD ELEPHANT and an occasional swaying of the trunk. But in these seemingly harmless movements there was danger, as the more experienced of those present knew, for such action in an elephant often precedes an attack. At the same time there was nothing to be done, for to fire at the animal then would in all probability have precipitated the attack. Fortunately, however, the beast was not, apparently, _in a pugnacious mood just then, for after a minute or two, which to the helpless crowd awaiting its decision, must have seemed the longest in their lives, it turned slowly round, and picking its steps carefully through the tents’ ropes, strode majestically away. _ But the danger was not over yet, for presently it stopped, _and with its body half turned towards the camp, was stand- ing in a thoughtful attitude as if meditating whether it would not be better to advance again, when my friend, thinking rightly that at this critical moment a sudden shock might change the current of its thoughts, fired both barrels into its stern. The effect was instantaneous. With a squeal of pain, : = or fear—possibly all three—the huge animal scuttled as fast as it could go, seeming quite ridiculous in the anxiety it exhibited to be off, and thus bringing to a comical conclusion what had come perilously near to being a very Serious tragedy, for there was no limit to- the damage it might have done had it charged into the crowd. With the possibility of experiencing adventures such as these, always present, added to the free, healthy life _he leads during this period, it is no wonder that the official _Anglo-Indian should look forward to the camping season, for after the long weary months of heat and toil, it comes as an oasis, so to speak, in the desert of his late existence. ___ Moreover, as already mentioned in a previous chapter, it is during these cold-weather tours—generally at Christmas _time—that shooting parties are made up, when, by previous arrangement, the various officials of the district meet and camp together for a week or more, each carrying on his own duties, but devoting his leisure hours to sport. On these occasions it is usual to have a general mess, one tent being set apart for this purpose, in which, after the | 59 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER day’s work or sport, dinner, the most enjoyable social function of the day, is served, followed by hot grog, while — seated round the camp fire, when every animal bagged that day is shot over again, and many a story told—some ~ perhaps not unlike “ travellers’ tales’ though probably — quite true, for incidents in Indian sport are often quite as strange as fiction. It was at one of these camp gatherings during Christmas _ time, that we had a somewhat amusing adventure witha — bear, an animal, by the way, which, though quite as — dangerous as many to be found in the Indian jungle, is — from its peculiarities also a comical beast at times and — affords the sportsman much amusement. On this particular occasion, however, it was not somuch — the conduct of the bear as that of some of the sportsmen ~ which amused us. We were rather a large party, consisting — of two Indian civilians and their wives, the district judge, — the doctor, and myself. q The shikaris having marked down a couple of bears, we sallied forth one morning, the two ladies accompanying us on an elephant, from which they could watch the whole — proceedings in absolute security. 4 On arrival at the jungle, we took up our respective — places, and the beaters being already assembled, the beat — began at once. P We had not long to wait, for presently one of the — bears broke out in the direction of the post occupied by, — let us say X, who, much to the amusement of the rest of — us, was attired in a long frock-coat. How he came to ~ have such a garment with him in camp, and why he had ~ donned it to go bear-shooting in, we never discovered, but — there it was, as originally created, silk facings and all ~ complete. 3 i However, notwithstanding his extraordinary, unsports- ~ manlike get-up, he was evidently quite at home with his — rifle, and as the bear came nearer, he fired—but unfortu- — nately missed—whereupon the beast promptly charged — him. 3 Then ensued a scene as comical as any I have ever — witnessed in the jungles, for our friend, after his miss, — having apparently lost all confidence in his shooting powers 60 ; THE DOCTOR’S LUCKY SHOT or those of his rifle, threw away the weapon and fled, closely pursued by the bear. Running blindly between the two elephants in his _terror—his coat-tails streaming out behind him—he con- tinued his mad career, negotiating every obstacle in his path with extraordinary skill till his foot, catching in a _ creeper of uncompromising toughness, he fell and lay prone for a time. _ Meanwhile the doctor, who had been posted on his right, seeing his friend’s danger, had also fired at the bear, and by a lucky fluke, shot it through the head, and was now loudly proclaiming the feat, shouting in broad Scotch, _“ Get up, mon, get up. I’ve shot the bar.” When discussing the adventure that night round the camp fire after dinner, I was complimenting the doctor | on his performance, he replied, “‘ Eh, mon, but I felt that _ steady I could have killed a bumble bee at a thousand Byerds !” I did not ask him whether he meant sitting, or on the wing! De Nae SRE 61 CHAPTER IX A bear adventure—Following up the tracks—A black object seen—An erroneous conclusion—Firing too hastily—An old woman shot dead — —Howls from the Press—Bloodthirsty suggestions—Another bear — adventure—A short-sighted sportsman—‘“ Thinking it was a bear” — —‘‘ What, not dead yet ?’—The second barrel—A revelation and — explanation—Disturbing the bees—Pandemonium-—Horses stung to 4 death—Floods in Khandesh—A perilous adventure—Saving a woman’s — life—Native gratitude—A thankless task—A change of headquarters if —My mosque bungalow—Said to be haunted—The ghost appears—_ Life at Nundobar—Coursing jackals, etc.—Cholera epidemic—A — village devastated—Lose my cook—Death of the apothecary—I turn doctor—A successful prescription—Administering the mixture— My patient recovers—A claim for damages—A police mutiny averted” —Drastic measures—My orders upheld—My first attempt at spearing — a panther on horseback—An exciting chase—The panther crouching © —Avoids the thrust—Seeks refuge amongst the rocks—A lucky escape—Panther spearing—A dangerous but most attractive form of sport—Railways and their influence on game—Revisiting old hunting grounds—Ravages caused by axe and plough—The march © of civilization—Jungle now devoid of game—Sic transit gloria mundi, SHORTLY after the incident just related, we heard of another. . bear adventure or, rather, to put it more correctly, one in — which a bear, although the object of pursuit, was not actually encountered, yet, indirectly, was the cause of what a occurred. b A friend of ours—the Forest Officer of the district— was out shooting, and happening to come upon the fresh — tracks of a bear, was following them up, when he saw a ~ black object moving in the jungle, a little distance off. — Concluding, very naturally in the circumstances, that this was the beast he was after, he fired and saw the animal, as ” he thought, fall in a heap. q Forcing his way through the jungle, he went up to it, — when imagine his horror to find, instead of a bear, a rough, — black blanket with an old woman lying dead beneath it. 62 "MISTAKING HIS FRIEND FOR A BEAR It was a terrible disaster, and yet he could hardly be held to blame, for it appears that the woman had been gated down gathering sticks, and in this attitude with black kumle or blanket over her shoulders, oe no object more closely than a bear. _ He was naturally much distressed, and eventually recom- her relatives handsomely for the bereavement he so unwillingly caused them, so that in the end she proved more profitable dead than alive. However, the matter eventually got into the native papers, which violently demanded that “the murderer” should be Sapieced to death and that his execution should take place on the scene of the tragedy ! _ While on the subject of accidents in connection with bear shooting, I may mention another one I heard of later, which ought to have ended as fatally, but fortunately did not. Two district officials out after a bear, were posted on trees at some distance from each other. As the beaters the senior of the two sportsmen, who was very erp and moreover rather deaf, saw something moving in the jungle at some little distance from his _and thinking it was the bear, promptly fired at it, e a response from the object which to his imperfect Sere of an animal in pain. — ion he had only wounded the beast—whereas he had missed it altogether—he fired the second barrel, and unfortunately with better success, for this time the response _ louder, and in a voice which he now recognized as | bly human. He now realized what had happened, and horrified at the thought that he had perhaps killed, or at any rate wounded, some native living in the neighbourhood, he a —_—or the tree and ran up to the spot where he __ Here he found, not a native as he had imagined, but his own companion, lying on the ground, almost un- conscious and bleeding profusely from a bullet wound in the a but mercifully too high up to be likely to Mahenased the wound up tightly with his kummerbund, 638 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER which happily stopped the flow of blood, and wetting the bandage with water from a stream near at hand, ran off to a neighbouring village, whence he returned shortly with a palki and some bearers to convey the wounded man to camp. He found him quite conscious again, and able to explain how the accident had occurred. It appeared that while waiting for the beaters to come up, he had suddenly espied what looked to him like the footprints of a bear under his tree. Forgetting the risk he ran, and unwittingly adding to it by not removing a thick black ulster he had on, he climbed down and was stooping to examine the marks more closely when he felt the bullet strike him. | Fortunately, as it happened, the bullet was an ordinary one, fired from a smooth bore, hence the wound was not serious and eventually healed up, but the bullet was never extracted, and though he made a complete recovery, he carried it in his shoulder to his death, which occurred from@ natural causes many years later. This incident should be a warning to all sportsmen never. to leave their posts until the last beater has come up, for there is not only the danger from the tiger lying up, until he is almost trodden on, but, as in the instance quoted, of the rash sportsman being made a target of himself. I have known of even experienced sportsmen nearly coming to. grief in this way. Before we broke up the Christmas camp I have referred to, we had a most unpleasant experience with some bees, which I must relate if only to prove how dangerous the stings from these insects can be. : One day during our afternoon siesta we were roused by a terrible commotion in the camp caused, as we learnt later, by a police sepoy lighting his cooking fire under a tree in which there happened to be several nests of bees. : In a moment our quiet, peaceful camp was transformed into a veritable pandemonium, many large swarms having — been roused by the smoke from this fire. I ran out at once and cut the heel ropes of the horses, being horribly — stung about the face and hands during the process, for” the little brutes hung on to me like bulldogs. One of the ladies in the camp wisely sought refuge under the mosquito ~ 64 q bn Tae Fost a = : RESCUE A DROWNING WOMAN curtain of the bed, and so escaped, but the rest of us, including her husband, were all badly stung. But the strangest part of the proceedings was that while all the human beings who were stung eventually recovered, two of our horses actually died from the effects of the stings. True, both these animals had been very severely bitten, yet one would hardly have imagined that a strong, comparatively thick-skinned animal like a horse, could be killed by the sting of so small an insect as a bee, however severely stung. It would be interesting to know _whether such a case has been heard of before, though so far as my own experience goes, I believe it to be unique, _or I would not have recorded it, for to be attacked by bees is by no means an uncommon experience when in camp or in the jungles. c: x 2 a x * , Khandesh was periodically visited by heavy floods, which often carried away small villages situated on the _ banks of the Tapti river, and it was during one of its flooded periods that I met with a somewhat exciting, not to say s, adventure. _ I was moving my camp that day, and, on my way to ne next encampment, was riding along the banks of the fiver mentioned, which at the moment was rushing like a _ torrent, when, amongst all the timber and different refuse _ Sweeping past, I noticed what I took to be a chatte * _ bobbing up and down in the stream about forty yards off. _ Examining it more carefully, I saw that it was a human ead, and from the length of the hair on it, evidently that fawoman. Onthe impulse of the moment, and foolishly, ver! I spurred my horse into the river, but it was wept away from under me immediately and carried down Left to swim alone, I managed with some difficulty to ¢lutch the woman, and holding her up as best I could, we Were swept some distance down, till we reached some ‘Shallow water, when, finding I had got a footing, I drew her on to the bank close to a village, where I found my horse, which the villagers had caught. * Earthen pot for carrying water. F 65 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER They soon lighted a fire, and by means of hot bricks and much vigorous rubbing, we eventually brought the woman round, for she was very nearly gone. However, once she was restored to consciousness, she was not long in making use of the faculties she had regained, though not exactly in the manner I expected. Getting up on to her feet, she first shook herself just as a spaniel does when it lands after retrieving from the water, then, to my amazement, turned on me, using every abusive epithet she could think of, till her vocabulary being apparently exhausted, she went off. : The reason for this extraordinary, and seemingly un-— provoked attack upon me was, I discovered afterwards, that, intending to commit suicide, she had thrown herself into the river, hence, so far from being grateful to me for — having rescued her, she was exceedingly annoyed at what — she probably considered my unwarrantable interference. Whether she eventually succeeded in accomplishing her object, I cannot say, but I noticed that when she went | away it was not in the direction of the river! Possibly she had found drowning as a mode of self-destruction not so enjoyable as she had probably imagined it to be. a * * * * | I have now come to the period of my service when, on { the retirement of Colonel Probyn and the appointment of his successor, Colonel W- , as District Superintendent — of Police, I, though still an Assistant Superintendent, was, : at the recommendation of the former, appointed in addition — as permanent Bhil Agent, which office also included, as i have before stated, that of Tiger Slayer. Somewhere about this time, too, the Bombay Gaverall ment, thinking it desirable that the Bhil Agent should live absolutely among the Bhils, a place called Nundobar~ was fixed upon as my headquarters, where an old mosque, ~ on the summit of a hill, was converted into a bungalow. _ This old building had the reputation of being haunted, — and once on my return from tour I found my orderly, who — had been left in charge, in a semi-conscious condition, his teeth clenched and presenting all the appearance om i having suffered some severe mental shock. 66 LIFE AT NUNDOBAR: CHOLERA - On recovering he solemnly informed me that he awakened RE eae dat tact soca an old mart with log over _ beard walking up and down, who, on being challenged, had melted into space! An over-indulgence in his evening _ meal of rice was probably the origin of this apparition ; _ anyway it was never seen again, nor were we ever troubled hg any other ghosts. My life at Nundobar was necessarily a solitary one, for except when a man or two came out to me for sport, I never saw a European. However, I was perfectly happy, living amongst the Bhils, and being in excellent health too, had no reason to complain. What with my police and tiger-slaying duties, I had not much time to myself, but occasionally took a morning or afternoon off for coursing, both jackals and foxes being _ very numerous in the plains below my bungalow. The _ going was excellent too, and I had some first-rate Persian _ greyhounds, which I had purchased from the stables in een mbay when buying remounts for the troop of Mounted Nevertheless, my life was not all “ beer and skittles,” to use perhaps a vulgar, but most expressive, phrase, for _ we had once a very bad visitation of cholera, which swept away most of the inhabitants of a village some three miles from my bungalow, and though in my own establishment I took every precaution, I lost two orderlies and my cook, the last a serious blow! : FE S a: 2 : ee ee ee aT _ This man and his wife were both attacked at the same time, and attended by the native apothecary, who, however, was struck down himself the next morning and died. The woman recovered, owing possibly to brandy and chloro- dyne, which, being now without a medical expert, I pre- Seribed and administered in large doses. __ But—such is the curious working of the native mind— she was no sooner convalescent and able to get about, than she came up to my bungalow and insisted I should present ahaa ‘sari,” * declaring that I had part the ___ It appears that in administering my remedies I had * Clothing worn by native women, p TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER spilled some of the mixture over her sari and stained it ! The fact that I had done this in my attempt to save her life was, apparently in her estimation, no excuse for damaging her clothes. Battling with epidemic, however, was not my only trouble in those days, for in the process of the amalgama- tion of the Bhil Corps with the Khandesh Constabulary, which took place during this period, I had considerable difficulties with the men; the rearrangement of pay and — grades, etc., as well as the fear of losing distinction as a separate corps, causing great dissatisfaction amongst the © latter. Finally matters became so serious that I had the ring- — leaders up before me, and after inquiring fully into their — grievance, summarily dismissed ten of their number. ~ These measures, though decidedly somewhat drastic, had, — however, the effect of quashing what might otherwise — have developed into a serious mutiny. a Shortly afterwards, happening to be staying at Govern- — ment House at the time, his Excellency questioned me on ~ the subject, adding that he had received a number of © petitions in connection with their dismissals. However, — being fortunately able to satisfy him as to the necessity — for acting as I had done, he was good enough not only to uphold my action, but to compliment me. * * * * * To the north of my bungalow at Nundobar was a long range of hills, covered with dense cactus bushes, affording — good shelter for such animals as bear, leopard, and wild — pig. j Riding out early one morning with a sowar * on the © chance of coming across a boar, I came suddenly on a huge ~ panther in the open. He had killed a chinkara,f and was — lying up under the shelter of some bushes. 7 On seeing me he made off at once for the hillside some ~ sixty yards distant ; but as I was riding an exceptionally — staunch horse, and the ground was fairly level, I thought it — an excellent opportunity—especially as the sowar was — * Police trooper. 7 Ravine deer. 68 “RIDING A PANTHER” - earrying my hog-spear—of trying my hand at spearing a _ panther off horseback. : Telling the man to follow me, I started after the beast _ at once at racing speed, for the distance was short, and I knew that if he reached the hill before me I was done. Fortunately, my horse being as fast as he was plucky, - we won, and I was about to lower the spear for a thrust _ when the panther, now scarcely his length in front of me, _ stopped suddenly and crouched. | Going at the pace we were, I had neither time to check _ my speed nor to drop the point of my spear, which, as we flashed past him, merely glanced harmlessly over the _ panther’s back, and before I could pull up and wheel round, _ the beast had reached some rocks, where it was impossible _ to follow him. j Meanwhile my orderly, having come to grief over a dry _ watercourse, had had a nasty fall, the horse rolling over him. He was accordingly literally-hors de combat, and had _ been so for some time. I was greatly disappointed at _ not getting the panther, at the same time I quite realized _ that he had come very near to getting me instead, for ~ erouched as he was all ready for a spring, had I wounded _ him in passing, he would certainly have sprung on to ____ The panther, always a dangerous animal, is never more _ so than when crouching, for its hind legs, being then doubled _ up beneath it, act like springs under compression, it can bound from this position in a second, and to a distance almost inconceivable in an animal of its size and weight. - Then again, to inflict a fatal wound on a panther with a _ Spear from horseback, is not so easy, for the skin fits so loosely that unless the thrust is delivered absolutely at right angles to the body, which is seldom possible, the point of the spear, instead of penetrating the flesh, will often between it and the skin, thus inflicting a « painful, but not necessarily a fatal or even incapacitating _____ Thus it will be seen that spearing panthers from horse- _ back is, on the whole, a dangerous form of sport. At any _ fate, it is one in which the hunter and the hunted are more _ equally matched than in any other contest between Jan oa fe :" ne Reo! : ’ hee P~.. a. A) v be j g TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER and beast ; in fact, the odds, if any, are possibly in favour of the latter. Nevertheless, in spite of the risks attending it, or more probably because of them, there is no kind of hunting done on horseback—pig-sticking even not excepted—more attractive to the sportsman than “ riding a panther,” as this form of sport is sometimes called. But alas! so far as this portion of the country is con- cerned, there are now no panthers left to ride, nor game of any kind to course or shoot. The Tapti Valley Railway — now runs through Nundobar, and has long since scared away all game for miles around, as the advent of railways — always does. 4 Many years later, while travelling by this line, I passed — the scene of my early wanderings, and was shocked to see the change. The old haunted bungalow was still there, — but the well-stocked jungles and hunting-grounds I ~ remembered had, under the axe and plough, all passed — away for ever. Sic transit gloria mundi I might well — have cried, for truly all its glory had departed from the © land ! 70 CHAPTER X _ My duties as tiger slayer—Panthers included—Some description of them —Variety of the species—Size, weight, and markings—What they on—Climbing powers—Their courage and ferocity in attack they feed on their kills—Man-eating leopards—The black er rare—The cheetah—Panthers difficult to locate—Returning iene a nt sil 4 é Another panther hunt—Attacks and mauls beater—Its final charge —Finished with 8.S8.A.—The uncertainty of sport—Killed with a single shot—Handsomely marked skins—An unusual pain and panther seen together—Abject terror of the latter—Slinking off into the jungle—A tiger’s sovereignty of the jungles—The wild boar excepted—Uncertainty the fascination of Indian sport—An un- expected meeting with a bear—Bagged—Capture the cub—Becomes quite tame in time—Walking out with the dogs—A leopard adventure RC aT ee a a ee eee Pee Le ee ee Y An extemporised projectile—Complete success. _ Aurnoven the main object of my appointment as tiger _ Slayer was, naturally, the destruction of these particular yet, though not officially stated, the office was intended to include the reduction of all other beasts of prey to human life or cattle, especially leopards or panthers, as they are equally often termed. As these animals are actually far more destructive to _ tattle and goats, and more numerous, too, than tigers, I Was as assiduous in my efforts to destroy them and experi- enced many an exciting adventure while in their pursuit. j Before relating some of these, however, it would perhaps be as well to give a short description of these animals and _ their ways, for although much of what I have said regarding _ tigers applies also to the leopard, yet there are many _ points on which the two animals differ very materially. ‘ The great variety in their species render classification 71 re @ = = { if = : {i GBs 3 fer eee TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER very difficult, but except in the case of the black leopard the difference is practically only in size, the larger variety in India being, rightly or wrongly, generally spoken of as panthers. Some naturalists, I believe, are of opinion that. a panther and leopard are of two distinct species, claiming that the skulls of the two are somewhat different in shape, but though I have compared many a score I have never been able to detect wif difference between any two, large and small. A leopard, or panther, varies in size from six to eight feet in length, the last being very rare, and weighs between © 160 and 180 pounds. His colouring is too well known to need description. In the smaller animal the black spots © are closer together than in the larger beast; hence the latter often appears to be of a lighter colour when seen in the jungles. Like the tiger, the skin of the leopard grows fainter in colour as the animal increases in years. Leopards frequent belts of jungle, rocky hills, and caverns, from the last of which it is generally most difficult to dislodge them. They are, as I have already mentioned, far more destruc- tive to the smaller cattle and goats than tigers, often coming into a village to carry off a goat or calf, and are also specially attracted by dogs, which they have been known to carry off from the verandah of a bungalow, and even from inside | a tent. Leopards, too, are capable of climbing trees, which they can go up as easily as cats,* and are often to be found lying hidden among leaves and overhanging branches, on the look-out for monkeys, which, in spite of their activity, they occasionally secure. Though less powerful in attack than a tiger, the leopard is, I consider, a far more dangerous animal for the sports- man to encounter, as he is more easily provoked to anger _ and exceedingly courageous in his retaliation. Ihave been | repeatedly charged by these animals, and on two occasions have had my men mauled by them. In eating his “ kills ” a leopard, unlike the tiger, seldom attacks the hindquarters first, but almost invariably tears * See “ Life in the Indian Police,” p. 213, by the author. 72 ae = a 3 _— = > = =" a . 2 ae ro -_ a tr = = Ba A Nasty Customer, - LEOPARDS AND CHEETAH : open the belly—making his meal off the intestines—covering 4 up the remaining portion with leaves, ete., to keep for later Man-eating leopards are happily rare, for when one happens to take to killing human beings, he is far more to _ be dreaded than any other man-eating animal, and his _ victims may run to a score or two—sometimes many 2? * __ The black leopard or panther is very rarely met with, _ these animals generally confining themselves to thick forest _ beyond the haunts of men. I have never had the good _ fortune to come across one; but have seen the skins, which are of uniform dull black colour, the spots showing in _ particular lights only. _ Another distinct variety is the snow leopard found _ throughout the Himalayas at great elevations. It is : a ci _ beautifully marked of a silver grey colour with darker _ spots, the fur being long and very soft. _. The cheetah or hunting leopard, though often errone- _ ously classed amongst leopards is quite a different species ; in fact, a different animal altogether. He is small in the _ loins like a greyhound, and his claws, though long, are not _ retractile, neither are they curved to the same extent as are others of the genus Feli. The cheetah, moreover, unlike the real leopard, is apparently easily tamed and _ taught to hunt antelope, for which purpose they are kept _ by native princes of India. _ Unlike the tiger, the leopard is very difficult to mark down. He seldom remains near his kill, preferring some distant ravine or adjacent hill. It is only by watching over a goat or calf tied up as bait, that there is any certainty of bringing him to bag. Still, I have shot a great number of them, but mostly over animals which they had just But although the leopard does not always remain near ~ his kill, he usually returns to it at dusk for a second meal ; _ but as he sometimes puts in an appearance much sooner, _ it is advisable for the sportsman to take up his position early in the afternoon, either on a tree or behind some * See the author's last work, “ Tigerland,” p. 76, 73 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER natural barrier, such as a thick bush. But the watcher must be careful not to move or make the slightest noise, as the leopard is most wary and cautious in approaching his kill. In following up a wounded leopard, the very greatest caution is always necessary, as the most practised eye cannot discover these animals unless they are on the move, their colour assimilating so perfectly to the ground and jungle they are in as to render them practically invisible. It is this peculiarity which makes a wounded leopard so dangerous an animal to follow, for the sportsman may be quite close to him and yet be quite unaware of the fact till he charges, which he will certainly do in nine cases out of ten and with a courage and ferocity far exceeding that of a tiger, and is, moreover, so quick in his movements that he is extremely difficult to kill, as he is also a very small target to aim at. When shooting on one occasion with Probyn and W. of the Civil Service, we had marked down a panther in the bed of a river close to our camp. By the shouts of the beaters, we soon knew the beast was started, and pre- sently it came out and stood facing us about twenty yards distant, Probyn and myself being on foot and W: on a tree on the opposite bank. As soon as the panther appeared, Probyn whispered to me that he would take the shot, as he was anxious to try the effects of buck-shot on one of these animals, and this was an excellent opportunity. On the report of the gun the panther charged, with lightning rapidity, straight for the smoke. When within five paces, however, he swerved to the right, and I shot him through the shoulder with my Rigby. Nevertheless, he managed to reach a patch of cypress into which he disappeared. We had an elephant out with us, and mounting it, cautiously approached the spot, where we found him lying dead. On skinning the beast later we found that some of the pellets had pierced the lungs, which no doubt would eventu- ally have killed him. The cartridge (Kynoch’s brass) was loaded with 5 drams 74 se eee Chom Sal it ee ee MY SHIKARI MAULED BY A LEOPARD powder and 16 mould or S.S.G. shot. Since then I used S.S.G. in the left barrel in following up wounded panthers; at close quarters it is most 7 On another occasion, when out beating for hog at Ner _(Khandesh), I came suddenly upon a huge panther, as large nearly as a small tiger, which was quietly trotting out towards a small, rocky hill about two hundred yards distant. Snatching a Snider carbine from my sowar who was _with me, I galloped after the beast and made a lucky shot from the saddle, crippling him behind, on which he laid _up in a small bush a short way ahead. __ My men now coming up, I dismounted and we walked _up to the bush, when the panther, with one bound, was on _ the top of my shikari Etoo, then a havildar in the corps, _ hanging on to his shoulder with his teeth. I could not fire _ for fear of killing the man, so seizing a spear from my syce, st drove it with both hands through the panther’s side, _ killing him at once. _ Etoo was badly mauled about the arms and shoulder, but being only some sixteen miles from Dhulia, I was able to despatch him the same afternoon to the hospital, where under skilful medical treatment he eventually recovered _ com: letely from his wounds. This panther measured eight feet—an exceptionally ie measurement—and was very old and light in colour. _ At this same camp I had wounded a panther with a Fal am Sia a Mr ea Oe ey, we =, i : si iat al dls Sa ste ali ee a ae See, 7 rr, ther. cn ek Sei a 3 Ps] fo egg Snap shot in the foot, and on following up his tracks, found him crouching in a thick coriander bush in the bed of a river. _ On going round the bush to get a better view, his head and shoulders being partly hidden by some boughs, he z paddenly charged out and knocked over my gun-bearer, e ing him of my shikar bag and water-bottle. an now got further into the bush, and we were con- F stdering how best to attack him, when out he came again _ With a savage roar, and striking down a man to my right, _ inflicted two deep wounds in his thigh. So quick had _ been his movements on both occasions that I had no time _ to fire. i. 75 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER We now retreated to some distance, and on one of my © men firing into the thicket, under my direction, the panther again, for the third time, charged out straight — for the guns, when I met him with a charge of S.S.G. in the face, killing him at once. This panther measured seven feet two inches, and was . the most determinedly aggressive of any I have ever come — across, and furnished a good example of the ferocity these animals are capable of displaying when roused. And yet—such is the glorious uncertainty of sport—even ; a leopard, savage as they almost invariably are, can some- times be bagged with as little difficulty as a rabbit or a hare, as the following incident will show. I was once watching over the remains of a young buffalo, which had been killed by a large panther, when I suddenly heard the beast behind me making that curious rasping, grating sound peculiar to these animals. So dense was the cover, however, that I could not see him, and being on foot, with no better shelter than a light screen of bushes between us, I naturally felt somewhat uncomfortable. Presently the noise ceased and I was wondering whether, having seen or scented me, he had sneaked off, when he leisurely walked out into the open from a bush opposite to me and only about five yards — off. I felt at once that I had him, so quietly raising the © rifle to my shoulder, I fired, planting my bullet, as I found ~ later, exactly in the centre of his chest, and of course killing him on the spot. He was a fine, handsome beast, and with a beautifully marked skin, which I had much ~ pleasure in adding to my collection. For there is probably no finer sporting trophy to be obtained than a perfect leopard skin, that is one taken from an animal shot while in its prime, and preferably towards the end of the cold season, when the fur is at its longest and best. Though — less imposing in respect of size than that of a tiger, it presents a handsomer appearance, possibly by reason of a more equal blending of the colours. Nevertheless, when seen together in the jungle—a sight which I had once the good fortune to witness—the leopard in spite of the greater beauty of its colourings, sinks into 76 a ee Pe ee a ee ee wy ON TT 8 a eT EN THE TIGER AND THE LEOPARD absolute insignificance as compared with the grand, awe- rance of a tiger. __ The incident I refer to happened in this wise. I was on this occasion beating for a tiger and had taken up my position on a tree. Presently, as the beaters approached, a panther came out of the jungle and stood under my tree, but I was not to be tempted. Shortly afterwards the tiger, being also roused by the noise of the beaters, came along by the path taken by the other, and though it must have seen it, seemed to take no notice of the panther. _ On the latter, however, the meeting had an immediate, and seemingly, most disquieting effect, for no sooner had it become aware of the tiger’s presence, than down it crouched, and putting its tail between its legs—as a cat might do when confronted by a mastiff—slunk off into the jungle, evidently in terror of its life and anxious to escape from its perilous position. And yet it seemed almost incredible that a panther, of all wild animals the most daring and ferocious, should be 80 easily cowed, and by a beast, which even though its _ superior in size, is no match for it in courage or ferocity, but apparently the tiger’s terrifying appearance had _ paralyzed these faculties for the moment. _ At the same time it must not be imagined that of all the larger animals which infest the Indian jungles, the _ panther stands alone in this respect, for with the exception _ of the wild boar perhaps, there is probably no animal, from _ the mighty elephant downwards, which would not rather avoid a tiger than meet one face to face. ___ However, be this as it may, it was an interesting sight to have witnessed this meeting of these two beasts, for it is seldom that a sportsman has the luck to see any other animal than the one he is pursuing, and not always does “he succeed in viewing even that ; yet it is just these unknown ; ilities which lend to Indian shooting the fascination possesses for the sportsman. __ For example, I remember strolling out from camp one Sunday evening with a couple of Bhil, and my 10-bore Paradox gun, to pick up, if possible, a pea-fowl for the Entering a dense bit of ground with a jungle path down 77 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the middle of it, we saw a bear walking leisurely towards us down this path. As she had not seen us, we slipped quietly aside and concealed ourselves behind some bushes. The bear, meanwhile, came slowly on, and when within ten yards or so, I fired, and the heavy paradox bullet entering behind the shoulder, she—for it proved to be a she-bear—fell stone dead in her tracks. On going up to her, a cub which she was carrying on her back, suddenly — detaching itself from the carcass, scrambled off. We gave chase at once, and after some difficulty secured the little © beast by throwing a blanket over it. It became perfectly tame in time and used to accompany me when I went out for a walk with the dogs, playing about with them as if one ~ of themselves. * * * Pa x Another somewhat similar adventure once happened — to a friend of mine in Bengal. One evening, shortly before dusk, he went out on a pad elephant to shoot a partridge ~ or two for dinner, in a jungle close to camp. He got his — first bird at once, and a little later dropped another, which © his orderly was just getting off to pick up, when suddenly — from almost under the elephant’s feet, up jumped a large leopard, which, rushing through the lighter jungle, entered — a thicker bit a little way ahead. My friend, likemost experienced Indian sportsmen, always © carried a couple of ball cartridge in his pocket, but though — he did not know it, it so happened that on this occasion he — had only one. However, inserting this into the empty chamber, he quickly followed up the leopard, and, catching — sight of it again, dropped it, as he thought, dead. He watched a minute or two to make quite sure, then — as it gave no sign of life, he ordered the mahout to take ~ his elephant up to where it lay; but in spite of the man’s — efforts, the animal refused to advance; in fact, showed a — decided inclination to retire. Meanwhile the leopard, which so far from being dead, — was apparently very much alive, now moved its head above the jungle, and growling savagely, made desperate attempts — to charge, but was evidently powerless to do so, which © seemed to incense it all the more. 78 ” ee AN EXTEMPORISED PROJECTILE _ It was only now that my friend discovered he had no more ball cartridges left, but knowing that if near enough, he could finish off the animal with a charge of No. 6, he tried again to make the elephant advance, but with no better success, and as it was now getting dark, he decided to get off. _ To walk up to a wounded leopard with a weapon charged with shot was, as he knew, a risky thing to do, but he felt he could not leave the beast to linger through the night ‘in pain, so was resolved to take the risk. 3 Fortunately at this moment his orderly was suddenly The latter, quick to see the possibilities of this extem- _porised projectile, lost no time in testing it, and the next time the leopard raised its head, in its attempt to charge, he fired, killing it on the spot, for as he found later, the charge had sped like a bullet, but scattering on impact had made a frightful wound, an inch or two below the ear. His first bullet, he now discovered, had hit the animal in the back, and grazing the spine, had paralyzed the ; renters, thus accounting for its inability to charge. 79 Ur = ois gies eed Seca TT See ae ee eee ee Bay. eae CHAPTER XI Take three months’ leave—A shooting trip to Central Provinces—A fine — shooting country—Local shikaris—A monster tiger bagged—Hear ~ of many bears—Sitting up at night—A great fusillade—S 4 result—My feat with a 360—Hitting the right spot—A fine bison. 4 brought to bag—Stalking a herd—Within ten yards of a bull—A tempting shot—Taking a risk—The ‘360 scores again—Astonishing my friends—A remarkable performance—Small bores not suitable — for big game—Exceptional cases—The Indian bison—Where to be — found—Average size of—General appearance—Description of the horns—Difference between bulls and cows—Difficult to approach— Solitary bulls—Savage and morose—Stalking two bulls—Risking a shot—‘‘ Missed !”—A long chase—Come upon them at last—Off again—Another long chase—Found once more—A right and left— Doubt as to result—Following up—aA pleasing surprise—Both found dead—Camping out for the night—A favourite resort for bison— Encounter with a solitary bull—The first shot—Following up tracks —A determined charge—Effects of an 8-bore—Why solitary Ss are savage—Dangerous not only to sportsmen—Expelled from —Solitary wild elephants and buffalo. In the early part of the year 1888, I took three monthalll leave and accompanied by I D of the Civil Service, and T- S—— of the Public Works Department, 3 went on a shooting trip to the Central Provinces. This part of India had not been much shot over in those days, hence we had some excellent sport, our bag, as far as I remember, amounting to eleven tigers, three panthers, six bear, besides several buffalo and bison. i We took a party of the Bhil Corps with us, and were» therefore independent of the local shikaris, though we found the Ghonds* excellent beaters, and very useful in the matter of supplying information of tigers, ete., in the neighbourhood. 4 We were greatly assisted, too, by the Forest Officer of the Chanda District, who, poor fellow, was shortly after q wards killed by a buffalo. P * A local tribe. 80 BEAR SHOOTING BY NIGHT Of the eleven tigers we bagged, one, which fell to my rifle, measured ten feet two inches, the record so far as my own shooting is concerned, for I have never shot one bigger, and yet, strangely enough, it gave me less trouble to secure than many considerably smaller. _ IT had taken up my position in a tree overlooking a dry watercourse, and as the beaters approached, the animal -eame walking down this nullah. As he was passing the tree I fired, and at the shot, which struck him high up in the shoulder, he gave a savage roar, and springing up the bank close under my very tree, was looking to right and left in search of his hidden foe, when I dropped him with the second barrel. _ He wasa very old tiger, light in colour, and, I remember, much scarred about the face, possibly the scars from wounds received i in combat with others of his kind, or in a battle with a boar. _ At one of our camps in the Chanda District, we heard of . — number of bears in the neighbourhood, and as they were said to frequent a pool of water near the tents, D———- and I decided to sit up for them, so had a machan * erected, and taking our blankets, settled down for the night. Soon after dark, and just as the moon was rising, we heard a couple of bears on the hill opposite us, making a fiendish noise, evidently engaged in an amorous encounter. o: cay little later one of them—or so we assumed, for we could only make out a moving mass of black—came down ‘to the water and was sent off screaming with a broken shoulder in the direction whence it came. After this we carried on a fusillade for the greater part of the night, taking alternate chances. I forget how many shots we fired between us, but I know we only bagged one bear ! I dislike night shooting, and this was the last but one occasion—when I missed a tiger—that I have ever indulged in this kind of sport. One day we were beating a strip of jungle for sambar, or fling ale else that might turn up, when a bear came along a narrow path opposite my position. : this a good opportunity for trying the effect of ad little ‘860 Express on one of these animals, I took a * Platform. e G 81 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER — careful aim for his shoulder and fired, the distance being about ten yards. At theshot the bear spunround, and made ~ short rushes in all directions, growling savagely the while. — I now blazed into him as fast as I could load, telling © my shikari, who had my heavy rifle, that he was on no © account to fire unless the bear got hold of me in the scuffle, — and in the end I managed to kill him with a shot in the — temple. q Since then, as will be seen later, I have killed a bull © bison with this little rifle, thus proving that, providing an — animal is hit in the right spot, a light rifle is as deadly as © a heavier weapon, no matter what the size of the beast © may be. The rifle in question was built by Henry of — Edinburgh, for that well-known sportsman the late Colonel — Baigree. 4 A few days after my adventure with this bear, S—— — bagged a very fine bull bison. It took two men to bring in — his head, and as I told S at the time, although I was well satisfied with my ten feet two inches tiger, I would” willingly have exchanged with him for that grand old bull, | whose measurements I never capped, though I have shot _ many of these animals since. a Of these, the most notable, though not in point of size, — was the one I have just referred toas having shot with the ~ ‘360 rifle. The incident happened in the Satpudas, where I was shooting on one occasion with Captain, now Colonel, 7 P , whom I had known well when attached to his regiment, the 19th Bombay Infantry. a We were encamped in the depths of the jungle, far away from any human habitation. The jungle cocks were crowing as we turned out in the morning and ascended ~ the mountain, accompanied by our beaters, to look for — sambar. : 4 Hardly had we separated with the intention of watching — different passes or “runs” accessible to the deer, when Bapu, my shikari, pointed to some dull objects far away in _ the valley below us. My field-glasses told me they were _ bison, and we at once commenced a stalk. There was one bull and four cows in the herd, and wind being favourable, I crawled up to a bamboo clum within ten yards of them. I had my mira rifle, also tl 82 To face BISON BAGGED, FINE A ee i ead rt iS, y 2 A REMARKABLE PERFORMANCE 860 Express, which I invariably carried with me in case _ I came across any pea-fowl, etc. The bull was standing broadside on, exposing his neck and shoulder in such a way as to ensure a deadly shot, and _ tempted by this, I decided to use the smaller weapon. , ee om shone tance inebew ening tke _ ear, I pressed the trigg d ae eeeaty, a as ‘tf struck by lightning, the mighty _ beast fell dead. It seemed almost incredible, but there it lay, absolutely motionless. However, knowing that I _ should have some difficulty in convincing my friend, I _ cut off its tail, then going back to him, made him put his _ finger down the muzzle of my heavy rifle, then look down _ the barrel of the other, and when I saw that he was satisfied _ Thad used the latter, I produced the tail ! On going up to the animal, we found a minute hole, ‘ perceptible where the little bullet had entered. - Nevertheless, small as it was, it had divided the jugular _ vein in two, thus causing instantaneous death. : This was the most remarkable instance of a large and ee being killed by a single shot, and from so small a rifle, that I had ever seen or heard of and only _ teghtl as I have said, how much depends on the placing At the same time, I do not mean by this to advocate the general use of small-bore rifles for such large game, as it Must be remembered that this was quite an exceptional ease, for the odds against obtaining a quiet, steady shot ‘at so short a distance as ten yards are probably about ‘a hundred to one, especially in the case of a bison, which 2 an extremely wary beast and most difficult to get near. Nevertheless, there is no animal in the Indian jungle 4 worthy of the hunter’s best efforts to secure, for the _ Indian bison * is truly a magnificent animal. It is found - all the larger forests and is fairly plentiful in Kanara, _the Central Provinces, and on the bamboo-clad spurs of the oom in Khandesh, where I have shot a considerable - mothe. average height of a bull is about six feet at the | shoulder and its length from nine to ten feet. They are of * Indian bison (Bos Gawrus). - TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER a dark copper colour, which in mature old bulls deepens to black. The legs, from the knee downwards, are of a dirty white colour, and also the forehead, which is covered with short, curly hair, while inside the thigh and forearm, the hair is bright chestnut.. The head is square with a peculiar formation of the frontal bone which projects above, muzzle large and full, the eyes are blue and ears broad and fan-shaped. Neck short, heavy, and immensely powerful, ending in a chest broad, deep, and muscular. Above the back and immediately above the shoulders rises a ridge, which ends abruptly halfway down the back with a drop of nearly five inches in large bulls. The legs are short and thick, and the hoofs small for so large an — animal and like those of a deerin shape. The tail is about thirty inches long with a tuft of hair at its extremity. The horns of the old bulls are massive, rugged, and indented at the base, and often worn out at the points. — The cows are lighter in make and colour than the bulls, © and their horns are more slender and upright with a more — inward curvature, while the frontal ridge is scarcely per- — ceptible. Finally, there is a peculiar smell about the whole — animal like that of fresh herbs or thyme. Cow bisons — calve in September, April, and May. Unlike the bulls, they — are of a reddish-brown colour. q Bison seldom form herds of more than twenty or thirty © individuals. They feed on various grasses, bamboos, — leaves, etc. They are extremely shy, and, as I have said, — difficult to approach, their sense of smell being extra- ~ ordinarily acute. q The solitary bison is invariably an old bull, turned out — of the herd by his more youthful rivals, and in conse- — quence is savage and morose, but always a fine specimen ~ of his race, and usually carries the best head. = But to return to my narrative. I was shooting at Ghoramba (Satpudas) once, when early in the day, we came _ upon the tracks of two bull bison close to a pool of water, — where they had evidently been drinking during the night. After two hours’ tracking we came up with them, <— in some dense bamboo jungle. & Stalking to within twenty yards of them, I was about ‘oe | 84 4 MOST SUCCESSFUL RIGHT AND LEFT fire at the largest when they winded us and made off, but _ following at a run, I got a snap shot at the leading bull and missed. : I soon realized the mistake I had made in firing this hasty shot, for the animals were now thoroughly alarmed, _and I knew it meant many hours of weary tracking before _ we could come up with them again. However, we took up _ the spoor over a grassy plateau, and at last, just as the sun was setting behind the hills, we sighted them, quietly _ browsing on the tender shoots of the bamboo in a valley _ below us. __ They were about a hundred yards away, and I was con- how best to circumvent them, the breeze being very laity, when there was a sudden crash—they had winded _us and were off again. I ran for all I was worth to head _ them off, followed by my henchman Bapu, who was carrying _ my rifle. _ We went tearing along down the steep incline and then _along the ridge, both greatly out of breath, when coming to an opening in the forest, I suddenly sighted the two bulls standing about fifty yards to my right. Stretching out my right hand behind me, Bapu handed me the Express rifle, which was fortunately loaded with solid bullets. _ I now fired at the big bull with the right barrel, for the point of the shoulder, and emptied the left at his companion, when they both wheeled round and disappeared into some dense covert ahead. I knew I had hit the first bull in the right spot, but was uncertain about the second, as his head and shoulders were partly hidden by a branch when I fired. However, following up the first by its blood _ tracks, we soon came upon him, and, to my delight, also the second, both lying dead within a few yards of each other ! It took some time and trouble to cut off the heads of _ these two monsters, and night had long set in before we onset the operation, so collecting some wood, we lit a fire out for the night, our dinner consisting of bison teak ext from along the dorsal ridge of one of the two bulls. Ghoramba, at the time I am writing of—some twenty years ago—used to be a very favourite resort for bison, the oy being high and well wooded with extensive bamboo 85 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER One of my later adventures with bison was an encounter I had with a solitary bull. I was out one morning with my Bhils, looking for game, when we came upon his tracks, and after going some distance, saw him grazing on an open glade about a hundred yards off. The jungle being only partially burnt, and the ground covered with dry teak leaves, made stalking very difficult. However, with care I managed to crawl up to within thirty yards of him, and kneeling behind a fallen tree, I fired. He staggered on receiving the shot, and we saw that one of his forelegs was disabled. He made off, however, so taking up the blood tracks, we presently came on him, standing behind a bamboo clump. As soon as he caught sight of us he rattled his — horns against the bamboos, then pawing the ground for a ~ moment, charged most determinedly. A shot from the — 8-bore I was using struck him exactly in the centre of the © chest, and raking him from stem to stern, dropped him ~ dead in his tracks. 7 He was a splendid, old, solitary bull, the largest I had — then killed, with a very fine head, and had evidently been — engaged in many a fight, for he was very much battered — and scarred all over. 7 These solitary bulls are, as I have already said, invariably — savage, because, having been driven out of the herd, they — are forced to lead a lonely life, which seems to make them — most vindictive and morose, and therefore dangerous, not — only to sportsmen, but to any people residing in the neigh- © bourhood whom they may happen to encounter. q Unfortunately, too, this practice of expelling a turbulent — male member from the herd is not confined to bison, but — is also resorted to by wild elephants and buffalo, and with worse results, for while a solitary bull elephant, or rogue — as he is called, is admittedly the most formidable animal — in existence, a solitary bull buffalo runs him very close; in fact, being possessed of greater cunning, is possiblyg the more dangerous of the two. + A description of these animals, and of some of th adventures I have had with them, will be found in th next chapter. a ne ae 86 CHAPTER XII ‘The Indian wild buffalo—Its size, appearance and habitat—Dangers in : tracking them up—An encounter with a solitary bull—A shot with a 10-bore rifle—Hit but not disabled—At bay—Effects of a second shot —Threatening to charge—A timely shot—Floored—A herd encoun- the bull—Badly hit, but makes off—Found lying up —Dead or alive ?—The question unexpectedly solved—The advantage of being prepared—A shot in the chest—The last Buffalo shooting a dangerous pastime—Poor trophies as a rule—The Indian bear—A terror to the native—Attack without victims—Bears uncertain in temper—Effects of feeding on into berries—Dangerous to tackle—Very tenacious of life—Size and appearance—Where found—The best plan for bear shooting—They afford good sport—Two narrow escapes—An exciting adventure—No room for two to pass—A lucky shot—The non-dangerous big game of India—First in size and importance—The sambar—Some description of this animal—A good head—A fine trophy—The bara-sing or swamp deer—Its resemblance to the red deer—The chetul or spotted deer —The handsomest of the deer tribe—The barking deer—The mouse and hog deer described. Tue Indian wild buffalo * is found in the swampy Terai, n the plains of Lower Bengal, in Assam, Burmah, and Central India. A bull buffalo often stands nineteen hands at the shoulder and measures as much as fifteen feet from nose to root of tail. His head is long and narrow, almost free from hair and of a dark, black, slaty colour; the tail is short, and does not extend below the hocks. The horns are enormous, and have been known to exceed twelve feet Measured round the curve from tip to tip. The females _ produce one, sometimes two, young, always in the summer _ Season after a period of gestation of ten months. ____ Buffalo delight in swamps, where they can obtain rich : and also wallow in the mud during the heat ol the day. Unlike the bison, they never ascend to * Babalus Arni, : 87 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER In the Central Provinces, where I have shot them, they are found in the Sal forests and in the swampy plains, where the long, rank grass affords them both food and cover. Buffaloes are extremely vicious, more so than the bison, and when wounded, invariably charge. There is probably no animal in existence so determined, and if followed up when wounded, have a trick of turning off their course, and concealing themselves in some dense bush or high grass, when they will rush unexpectedly on the trackers ; hence are exceedingly dangerous to track up. When shooting in the Central Provinces, I was out one morning looking for bara-singi * accompanied by a Ghond shikari, when we came upon the fresh tracks of a solitary bull buffalo. After following the tracks some three miles, the animal suddenly jumped up in front of us out of a patch of high grass in which he had been lying. I was carrying a 10-bore rifle by Dixon, with which I fired immediately, aiming at the point of his shoulder. On receiving the shot, he lurched forward and made off into some thick bush, where he disappeared. Following the blood trail for about a hundred yards, we came upon him, standing behind a bush about a dozen yards to our front. On seeing us he trotted forward a few paces, and stood there, pawing the ground and looking altogether exceedingly unpleasant. I now fired at his chest, bringing him to his knees, but he was up again in a moment, and would probably have — charged, but I ran in closer and floored him with a bullet — in the neck. He had a very fine pair of horns, and as he © lay looked enormous, the neck in particular displaying — extraordinary powers. A few days after this, my man reported a herd of — buffaloes, said to be in an old paddy, or rice field, about — three miles off. I went out at once, and eventually ~ succeeded in creeping up to within twenty yards of them. The herd consisted of one bull and six cows. Selecting — the bull, I fired at him, breaking his shoulder; but in © spite of this, he managed to get away with the others ~ across an open plain; however, following on the blood * Swamp deer, lit. 12-horned. 88 Tene Te na ee eS wcsare aE LG om a BEARS DANGEROUS TO HUMAN LIFE tracks we soon came up to him lying in some bushes. The ips of the horns were all that I could see, so, not knowing the beast was still alive or dead, I approached a little nearer to find out, when up he sprang with a snort. Fortunately, I was prepared, and as he got up I hit him with the right barrel in the centre of the chest. He turned on receiving the shot, when I let him have _the contents of the other barrel in the shoulder. Never- theless, he galloped off and covered quite twenty yards _ before he fell over, dead. - Tecould relate many another adventure I have had with these animals, but from these two incidents alone it will _be seen that buffalo shooting is not only an exciting pas- time, but apt to be dangerous, too, at times. The heads, unless they happen to be out of the way in size, are not much valued as trophies, but the skin is of great thickness and much prized by the natives for making into shields, _ thongs, etc. While on the subject of dangerous big game in Indian _jungles—I mean animals dangerous to human life—I _tMmust not omit to mention the Indian bear,* for, with the _ exception of a man-eating tiger or leopard, both happily tel rare, there is no animal more dreaded by the natives _and with good reason. _ For example, tigers and leopards, unless they happen _to be man-eaters, will seldom attack human beings un- _ provokedly, on the contrary, are generally more anxious _to avoid them; whereas the bear, without the smallest provocation, will go for a man at sight. _ Wood-cutters and others, whose business takes them into the jungles, often fall victims to these attacks, and there was hardly a village in the Satpudas where one or two of the villagers did not bear on their persons the claw- marks of these vicious brutes. _ Armed with formidable claws about three inches in . they use them freely and with great effect, striking, when they have the opportunity, with the forepaws and cow-kicking with the hind ones, and cases have been known of sportsmen being entirely scalped by one downward blow of the paw, and even killed with one blow. * Ursus Labiatus. 89 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER The temper of a bear, too, is very uncertain, and appears to be affected by the season of the year, as well as by the food they exist on. The Bhils declare—and I am of their opinion—that during the “ mourah” season bears are particularly vicious, as they eat largely of these berries and are said to be affected by its intoxicating juice, which is quite likely, as a very strong liquor is distilled from these berries. They are dangerous beasts to tackle, too, for apart from their formidable claws, they are very tenacious of life, and unless knocked over at once, take a lot of killing. When two or three bears are together, on one being wounded, it will often turn on the others and attack them savagely — as if under the impression that they had inflicted the injury. An Indian bear measures from five to six feet in length, stands nearly three feet high, and weighs from fifteen to twenty stone. He is a mass of coarse, shaggy, black hair, with a whity-brown muzzle. On his breast he bears a crescent or V-shaped mark resembling a horse-shoe, some-— times orange in colour, but more often white. A shot in the centre of this mark, when the animal stands erect, as it often does in attacking, i is generally fatal at once. Bears frequent rocky hills, caves, deep ravines, and thick bush. In Bengal they are generally found in Purundi, or wild cardamum, jungles. Their food consists chiefly of roots, honey—which they are particularly partial to— and insects of all kinds, especially white ants. They are also very fond, as I have said, of the mourah blossom. The sight of the bear, like that of an elephant, is very poor, but, on the other hand, his sense of smell is extra- ordinarily acute. The best plan of bringing bears to bag is to send men out — to mark them down in the early morning, the men taking up their positions by early dawn on all the prominent — hill-tops and peaks, so as to command, if possible, all the — ravines and hill-sides. They will then, as soon as the sun rises, be able to see the animals seeking shelter, after their _ aaa ae Lane et oe, ee ae en site ee . nn Oe ee ee night’s ramble and feed, in thick bamboo clumps, ae t of rock, etc., from which they can be easily beaten out. This method of marking down bears, however, can only be carried out in fairly bare, mountainous country. 90 ~@ Dak BoP BULL BISON (Khandesh). Shot with -360 Express. THE BEAR lo face f Shot with -360 Express A NARROW ESCAPE Although bears are not in the same category with the tiger or panther in point of danger to the sportsman, still _ they afford excellent sport, especially in localities where can be attacked on foot. They are gregarious animals, I have often killed two or three of a family. When sleeping out on one occasion under one of the mourah trees I have spoken of, I was suddenly awakened during the night by an enormous bear, which had come in _ quest of the berries, which, when ripe, drop to the ground. Drawing my revolver from under my pillow, I fired in _ the direction from which the noise seemed to be proceeding _ and heard the animal moving off. When morning dawned, however, we found his broad footprints within a few yards of my bed! On another occasion, too, I had a very narrow escape _ from one of these animals at a place called Warangaon, in _Khandesh. I had wounded a very large bear, and in my _ eagerness to get him, ran after him down a steep hill, _ when suddenly he turned and nearly got me round the ___ I managed, however, to put a bullet into him just in _ time, but so close was he that his hair was singed all over _the chest with the flash from my rifle. He was finished _ off by my men, who fortunately came up at this moment. q earing of some bears once at a place called Chappani, I moved my camp there. The men who had preceded me the night before, had marked down one of these bears in a mass of broken rocks on the side of a hill. __ I was posted on a narrow path on the side of a steep 4 covered with high grass and reeds, leading to the : which the bear was said to be lying. Soon I heard the shouts of the beaters, and presently : the bear, a very large male, coming towards me. The path, as I have said, was a very narrow one, and as there ‘was no room for the animal to pass me, I allowed him to “come up to within ten paces and then fired, the shot striking him in the centre of the chest, sent him rolling down the hill, where he was picked up, quite dead. He was a huge al, enormously fat, with a fine, shaggy coat. * * * *~ * ee a a re 91 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER In addition to those mentioned in this and previous chapters, the only other wild animals of India dangerous to human life, and therefore of greater interest from the sporting point of view, are the rhinoceros and boar. Of the first I have had no personal experience worth recording, as they are only to be found in the dense jungles of Assam and parts of Lower Bengal. The boar, however, I know well and shall have something to say about him later on, but in a chapter to himself; for to include him amongst the animals I had shot in India, would be to proclaim myself as great a criminal as if, in a hunting district at home, I confessed to having shot a fox ! I have, however, still many shooting adventures to relate, for although the bear ends the list of dangerous wild animals in India, I have not as yet exhausted the numerous experiences I have had with the latter, some of which, I trust, may prove at least as interesting as those already told. Meanwhile, I propose to give a short account of what I may describe, in contradistinction to the others, as the non-dangerous big game of India, many of which I have shot from time to time during my long service in that country. Of these the first, both in point of size and importance, is the sambar.* This handsome animal, called erroneously by some the Indian elk—for he is in fact the red deer—is the largest of all deer, with the exception of the wapili and moose. The stag stands about fourteen hands and weighs from 300 to 600 pounds. In colour it is dark brown, and the throat is surrounded by a shaggy mane which gives a striking appearance to the animal. The horns are not palmated, but antlers, with two lines only, four feet or more in length, and usually indented with deep notches or grooves. The females are lighter in colour and have no horns. They live together in small herds of about five or six, and frequent wooded ravines and jungles preferably in rocky and mountainous country. In hot weather the male almost always lives up in very * Cervus Unicolar. 92 I Teall OR er i ae i Sika OR SPOTTED DEER. (Khandesh.) CHETUL R; A SAMBA (Central I \ } rovinces, SAMBAR AND CHETUL _ high ground and his large footmarks or tracks are often | found in almost inaccessible places. : A male sambar’s presence in the jungle can be easily _ detected from a habit they have of rubbing themselves | against trees to get rid of the velvet that adheres to their _ horns up to the mating season. The old stags can generally _ be heard bellowing at dark and early dawn. These animals : ford excellent sport, though naturally it is not so exciting hp as the pursuit of dangerous game. A good head makes a fine trophy, and the skin is of some value, as out of it can F be made excellent shooting boots and gaiters, being soft _ and pliable yet proof against thorns. __. The swamp deer or bara-sing * comes next in point of size, and is found in Central and also other parts of India. _ It is a grand animal and much resembles the red deer of _ Seotland in appearance, and is about the same size. Its horns, though not so massive, are far handsomer than . those of the sambar, and carry from ten to twelve points. Though I have shot a good many of these animals, I was never fortunate enough to secure a really good head. Next comes the spotted deer, or chetul,t an animal which, in my opinion, is, without exception, the most beautiful and graceful of the deer tribe. The stag is a little larger than a fallow buck ; its skin is of a rich dark- brown colour, completely covered with white spots and almost as handsome as that of a panther; the belly and inside of the thighs are pure white. Like the sambar, the ‘antlers have only six lines, and vary in length from thirty _to forty inches. 7 Chetul are usually found in thick jungles on the banks of rivers where the country is broken, and intersected by “a ity to and watercourses ; they go about in large herds " to sixty, and are very common in the Central Provinces, where I have shot a great number. _____ Likeall the deer tribe, they are extremely shy, and there- - fore difficult to approach. If alarmed, they make a peculiar ' noise—a loud, harsh bark, repeated at ‘intervals of a minute, _ often denoting the presence of a tiger or panther in the en encamped on the banks of the river at Ghorisgaon, * Cervus Duvancelli, + Cervus Azis. 98 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER in Khandesh, herds of these deer used often to come down to drink close to our tents, but were seldom molested for fear of disturbing more important game. A much smaller member of the deer tribe is the ribbed face or barking deer,* an extraordinary little creature of a reddish-brown colour, the longitudinal creased ridges on the face and hoarse bark giving to it the names it bears. It stands about two feet high and is very low in the shoulder. The antlers, which are supported on long, skin-covered pedicles, divide at the top into two small trees, the tops curving curiously backwards and are from two to five inches long. Another peculiarity of this animal is the length of its tongue ; its teeth, too, are extremely long. Another curious animal is the mouse deer,f or pisdi, about the size ofa hare. It is of a dirty yellow grey colour, white underneath, with long rows of spots running length- — ways along the side, and large brownears. The tiny foot- — prints of these animals—V-shaped and split at the points— — are often seen along the jungle paths. They are excellent — eating and remind one of the Sakaro or Dik-Dik of Africa. In Central India and Sind, also in parts of Lower Bengal, are found the hog deer { or para. I have shot many in Sind, where they are very common. They stand about twenty-five inches at the shoulder and are of a rufous or yellowish-brown colour. Their horns resemble those of — a sambar or chetul in shape, though naturally much smaller, _ rarely exceeding sixteen inches in length; the hide, like © that of sambar, is soft and pliant yet thorn-proof, and is much used for making saddle covers, gaiters, ete. This, to the best of my belief, completes the list of all the known varieties of the deer tribe to be found in the © Indian jungles. There are some other animals closely q resembling deer, but which in fact are really antelopes, an account of which, together with the wild goat or a will be found in the next chapter. * Invus Aurtus, + Memimna Indica. t Axis Porcenus. 94 3 ie CHAPTER XIII - Indian antelope—Black buck the best known—Where found— Habits, ete.—Rifle reeommended—The Indian gazelle—The % or chinkara—Its peculiar call—The four-horned antelope—Flesh - wuneatable—The Nil Ghi—Meaning of the name—Ibex or wild goat of Asia Minor—A stalk described—Rolling down a precipice—Ibex- a driving in Afghanistan—Posted to Sholapur—No big game—Pig- sticking—The sport described—A comparison—A boar described— Its formidable weapon—How used—Riding for first spear—Keen competition—The pig-sticking spear—Spears used in Bombay and Madras—The short spear of Bengal—Blades—Varieties in shape of —Horses best suited for the sport—Cunning of the boar—Its courage and determination—A formidable foe—Some runs described—The secret of success—Full speed a necessity—A sport sui generis—I lose a favourite terrier from hydrophobia—Two servants bitten— none the worse—A tragic sequel—Both men die of hydro- No clue as to how the dog was bitten—The danger of pugnacious terriers—Village curs dangerous to fight with. ‘the Indian antelope, of which I have any personal ledge, the one best known to all Indian sportsmen is buck,* to be found practically all over India, more frequently in dry districts, where they frequent tge open plains more or less devoid of vegetation. An old buck stands about two feet nine inches high. coat is black as pitch, in strong contrast with the pure nite ne on the belly, face, and throat. The skin rkens with age and does not attain its maximum colour | the animal is about eight years old. The horns are spiral, generally of equal length, and vary size from nineteen to twenty-seven and a half inches. 1¢ females are smaller than the male, of a light-fawn colour, a. The buck is gregarious and generally found in herds of twenty or thirty individuals, though on the plains of Gujerat I have seen as many as two hundred in a herd. Old bucks are very pugnacious and may frequently be * Antelope Bezoartica. TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER seen fighting, and when so engaged can be easily approached. Essentially a plain-loving animal, it avoids hills and heavy jungles. They are capable of great speed, and when dis- turbed, start off with high leaps and bounds. Like all antelope they are extremely shy and difficult to stalk. A ‘400 Express is the best weapon to use with these animals. Ihave shot a large number, but was not fortunate in securing any good heads, the longest being twenty-three and a quarter inches. The Indian gazelle * is another of the antelope tribe, standing about two feet two or three inches in height, and of | a dark-red chestnut colour. Its horns run from ten to — fourteen inches in the male; the longest pair in my collec- tion are twelve and a half inches. They are ringed and — with very sharp points. The does also carry horns, but — they are smoother and only about six inches long. The gazelle, or chinkara, as they are now often called, — frequent broken ground with sandy ravines bordered by scrub jungle, and are very common in Gujerat, Khandesh, — and the Central Provinces. They are generally in small herds ~ of four or five, with one or two bucks amongst them, and — sometimes may be found singly. : The chinkara is a restless little creature and requires good shooting, for they do not offer much of amark. When — alarmed they make a peculiar hissing sound like a loud — sneeze. The venison of this animal is excellent eating. q Then comes the four-horned antelope, j which is found — throughout India, except, I believe, in Burmah and ~ Ceylon. They are common in Khandesh and in parts of © the Central Provinces. The male is of a dull-brown colour and stands about twenty-five inches at the shoulders. The © anterior horns of this animal are seldom more than two — inches in length, while the posterior do not exceed four — inches. The does are of a lighter colour and have no horns. 4 These animals are extremely shy and are generally found in small herds of five or six and sometimes singly. 3 When alarmed they run with necks held low which gives them a peculiar poky appearance. Their flesh is coarse_ and uneatable. * Gazella Benneltii. + Tetraceros Queedricornis. 96 & __- SHOOTING IBEX IN BALUCHISTAN _ Finally, there is the nilghi,* a name presumably given _ it originally by the natives on account of its appearance, “nil” being the Hindustani for “blue,” and “ ghi” meaning a “cow.” I know very little of this animal, which, though classed as an antelope, more resembles a deer without horns, though the bull has short horns of about nine inches. ___ It is of a decidedly blue-grey colour and about the size of asambar. It is found in various parts of India, but in a is hardly considered as game, because, owing to ‘its docile and confiding disposition, it affords no real sport and is consequently seldom hunted. A solitary bull will give a good run at times. __ When shooting in Baluchistan I was very fortunate in a some very fine specimens of the ibex, or wild _goat,t of Asia Minor. This animal is about the size of a small donkey and of much the same colour, being of a _brownish-grey, with an almost black line down the back. The males have long beards and horns of the usual ibex type, but differ from those of the various species in that they have no distinct front surface—only notches, these being irregular and some distance apart. In some the animals the horns curve inwards at the tips, whilst n others the curve is outwards, those with the latter formation being the most prized. _ The females are lighter in colour than the male and have small horns and no beard. _ The wild goat is found singly or in herds of from ten to . They inhabit lofty mountain ranges, and as with all the ibex tribe are extremely shy and very difficult to I well remember once in Sind following the track of a ‘Solitary ibex for over thirty miles along a mountain path, ‘Which lead so persistently upwards t ‘that even my wild Baluchi shikari showed signs of giving in. _ We plodded along, however, and just as the day was ‘Waning, sighted our quarry some fifty yards ahead of us. was little or no cover, and as we sank down, scarcely daring to breathe, the ibex threw up his head and looked _ * Boselephos Tragocamelus. + Capra hircuslelythi. H 97 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER fixedly at us. Presently he gave a stamp with his foot, | and I knew we were discovered, and that there was not a — moment to lose, so, sitting up, I covered his chest, and taking © a careful aim as if I was competing for a £1000 prize, +4 | fired. i The ibex gave a great leap upwards and fell over, dead. He was a splendid beast, very old and scarred all over, and the horns measured forty-eight and a half inches round — the curve. We were well satisfied with our prize; but it : was many hours past sundown when we reached our camp, — at the foot of the mountains, thoroughly done up, and with — every bone in our bodies aching after our tremendous — climb. On another occasion an ibex I had wounded crawled up a rocky precipice, some three thousand feet high, where it — was impossible to follow him. With my powerful field- q glasses I had just made out he was badly wounded—the - bullet wound on his shoulder being distinctly visible—when suddenly he gave a lurch forward, and, looking no larger than an orange, came rolling down to the valley below. P On going up to him I was mortified to find, however, — that in his rapid, but probably involuntary descent, one of his magnificent horns had been broken off at the point. Nevertheless he was a fine specimen, the horns measuring forty-six and a half inches round the curve. So far as I know, ibex shooting in India is always done in the way I have described. In Persia and Afghanistan, however, I believe they are generally shot in drives, but this must be poor sport. . * % 4 In the year my services in the "Khandeai District were interrupted for a while by my transfer, as District Superintendent of Police, to the District of Sholapur, where, though the work was much easier than at Khandesh, there was no big-game shooting. However, small game was fairly plentiful, but what I most enjoyed was the pig- sticking, a sport for which the district was quite celebrated in those days, and probably is still. 3 Although hog-hunting, or pig-sticking—to give it its” more familiar title—is not to be classed with big-gam a shooting, it is considered, and justly so, the finest sport in- 98 eeu ee Newey ee — a a THE WILD BOAR OF INDIA the world. The dash of danger intermingled with the excitement of the chase gives to it a zest which, even in _fox-hunting, is wanting. At the same time, in some respects the two resemble each other closely, in fact, to put it briefly, pig-sticking less the hounds, is fox-hunting, except for the difference in size and character of the two animals respectively con- cerned, but this difference is important, for whilst the fox is helpless to protect itself, the pig can, and often does, turn on its pursuers, and being a formidable beast, the contest is infinitely more equal, sometimes even resulting in victory for the pursued. _ In this connection it is necessary to bear in mind, too, that this—the so-called “ pig ”’—is invariably a boar, of all wild animals in India admittedly the most determined and courageous, armed, moreover, with sharp tusks, averaging from five to six inches long, though they have been known to run to as much as nine inches in length. For the rest, an Indian boar stands over two feet six inches and from snout to end of tail is quite six feet in ; In colour he is almost black with a thick row of : ong, stout bristles down the back. The head is long and narrow with coarse black flowing whiskers, which turn with age. The ears are pointed and surrounded with bristles. Of the tusks alluded to above, he carries four, an upper ‘and lower one each side of his mouth ; but it is the lower ones he uses in attack or defence. These are white and : and symmetrically curved with the inner edges as as a razor. 7 method of using these murderous weapons, is to throw up his head with a jerk when closing with his foe, and having great power in his neck, a blow thus delivered Makes a fearful wound. The upper tusks are much shorter and of a dirty yellow colour. His tail is scantily covered with short hairs, and has a flat tuft of bristles at the end. _ Wild pig are found throughout India and are very common in the Deccan, where I have speared a considerable _Rumber. They do much damage to the crops and live in herds or sounders—to use the technical term—of from ten tosixty or more. Solitary boars are occasionally to be met : ai 99 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER with in high grass, cactus bushes, or rocky caves, and afford — the best sport. When riding in company with others, the main object — of the hunters is to obtain the “ first spear,” 7.e. to be the — first to stick the pig, for the rider who draws first blood, — however slight the wound he inflicts, is entitled to the © tusks, hence the competition for these trophies is ni very keen. In the Madras and Bombay Presidencies, where the — weapon is held lance-wise, the long spear is invariably — used, varying in length from eight to ten feet, but in Bengal a short leaden-headed, jobbing spear is preferred. The® shafts of all pig-sticking spears are made of what is known — as the male bamboo, which for strength and rigidity cannot — be surpassed. The spear-head, or blade, varies in shape according to the taste and experience of the hunter, but the lance-shaped — blade is to be preferred as it is easier to draw out of the boar after the thrust has been delivered. The horses best suited for the sport are Arab stallions, — as they are extremely courageous and very clever on their — feet—an important qualification, for the boar usually — selects the worst line of country in his flight, in the hopes of shaking off his pursuers. : In following a boar, the rider must be ever on the alert, ready for any contingency that may arise, for no one — who has not been an eye-witness of the desperate courage of the wild hog, would believe in the utter recklessness of life — which he displays, or in the fierceness of his attack. 4 With a spear passed through his vitals, he has been known to bury his tusks in the body of a horse, or the leg” of its rider. He is none the less a noble foe, rarely turning ~ to mutilate a fallen enemy ; unless so desperately wounded - as to be unable to go on, and when conquered, dies, as only © a wild hog can die, in absolute silence. . On one occasion, I had a long and severe run after a solitary old boar, which on the second time of being speared, — ran up the spear and fixed its tusks in the chest of my horse, — bringing him heavily to the ground. I was picked up 2 insensible and with a broken collar-bone ! S Another time when riding for the spear, with my friend — 100 by a ee . 4 a PLEASURES AND PERILS OF PIG-STICKING _O—— of the Indian Civil Service, my horse was knocked completely off his legs by a savage boar. As a result of the encounter I was laid up for several days with broken ribs, while my horse was so badly ripped that it had to be ed! The secret of riding a hog successfully is to ride as close Seg him as possible, keeping him on the right or spear side. e horse must be kept so thoroughly in hand as to be _ to turn at once with every “ jink” or turn made by the pig. __. The pace of the horse, too, should be as near as possible _at full speed, in order to blow the pig and take away his wind _in the first brunt, otherwise he will probably run for miles, hence if either from the slowness of the horse, or the difficulties of the ground, the pace cannot be kept up, there is always the danger of losing the pig. It would take pages to describe all the various incidents, accidents, and adventures which fall to the lot of all who have ridden after pig, for it is a sport eminently sui generis, and one in which the sportsman, while exposed to every danger attendant on fox-hunting, must also run the risk of being attacked by the animal hunted. Nevertheless, ‘it is just this spice of danger which, as I have said already, gives to this sport its extraordinary fascination. __ While stationed at Sholapur, I had the misfortune to lose a very favourite dog, a fox-terrier called Snap, but under -eireumstances which had such an extraordinarily tragic 4 that I am tempted to record this otherwise, apparently, trivial incident. __ Onarrival one morning, while on tour, at a new campi ground, my butler brought me the dead body of the dog, who, as usual, had been sent ahead with the camp kit, under the charge of the dog-boy. I examined the body and found some foam and saliva round the mouth. _ The butler explained that the dog, who was travelling im the cart with the servants, had suddenly become restless, and finally had bitten the dog-boy and the dhoby,* and : very violent, they had been obliged to kill him. Neither of the two persons bitten seemed any the worse, * Washerman. TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER nor were their injuries severe; however, thinking it safer to do so, I cauterised all the bites I could find on both as thoroughly as I could, and gave no further thought to the matter. Six months later, however, after I had left the district, a friend at Sholapur, to whom I had mentioned the incident, wrote to tell me that both the dhoby and the dog-boy had just died of hydrophobia! The curious part of this business was that I could never discover when, where, or how the dog had contracted the dread disease himself ; and could only conclude that he, being like most terriers, exceedingly pugnacious, had been bitten, when fighting — with some village cur, which had the germs in him. 102 a FO ee ae Ce Te ae ee i a Pate Tar oF reyes 0 Jace COBRA. WITH LIVE SNAKE-CHARMER = me. sisi tee prey ay Hoe Mice, eae. ae D: CHAPTER XIV A lack of amusement—Fishing on the lake—Good sport—Snake charming __.__-=-A performance described—‘‘ Music hath charms ”—Discordant but _ fascinating—Lured out of a well—A marvellous performance—Re- _--—- moving poisonous fangs—The hamadryad—Its rapidity of movement _ A friend’s experience—Hatching the eggs—A male mother—The nest found—A rare specimen—The insatiable collector—The biter bit _ —The snake stone—Method of using it—The cure effected—An heir- i loom—Purging the stone—A narrow escape—Rough on the fishing- a rod—A snake in the hall—Prompt measures—Taking the bull by the ____ horns—aA strange protest—Posted to Shikapur—lIts evil reputation _ The hottest place in India—How we kept cool at night—Sand-flies # Oo agg ea mage storms—No regular rainfall—A change to weather, short and severe—Wild fowl in plenty—Pleasant ie Khairpur—An old-time chieftain—A sportsman over seventy _ Ali Murad and his faleons—A day’s hawking—Well- _ trained birds—An old reprobate—Curious way of fishing. Aparr from pig-sticking and small-game shooting, there ‘was little in the way of amusement at Sholapur, but as the station boasted of rather a good lake, we rigged up a boat and for some time amused ourselves with sailing. _ However, discovering after a while, that there were fish in the lake, we used the boat for fishing; the fish we found, though small, were very plentiful and good eating, ad what is more to the point, gave excellent sport with *, was while at Sholapur, too, that I witnessed some curious feats of snake-charming, performed by a wandering gang of professional snake-charmers. The principal per- rmer was an individual of the native juggler type, who, the weird music of a reed instrument, which he called ae i,” made several cobras, which he brought with him, sway and keep time to, what by courtesy might be called the tune, which, however, seemed to have an extraordinary fascination for the snakes, for they were 108 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER evidently entranced by it and for the time being completely under control. Afterwards, by means of this discordant “ music,” he lured out of a disused well another cobra, which, unless he had previously placed it there himself, which was searcely possible, was certainly not one of his own. This one he also played to for a time, and with the same effect, then, suddenly grasping it by the tail, and running his hand up rapidly, grasped it below the neck and forcing its jaws open, extracted its two poison fangs, using a pair of pincers for the purpose. It was certainly a marvellous performance and one requiring extraordinary skill and courage, as the slightest mistake, or fumbling, would have cost the man his life, for the snake, as we had seen, was dangerous at the time. With many so-called snake-charmers, who perform their tricks with what are believed to be poisonous snakes, it is the practice to have the poisonous fangs extracted before- hand, and though they grow again, for the time being they make it harmless. Writing about snakes reminds me of an amusing adventure experienced by W: , a friend of mine at Castle-rock, a wild, delightful spot in the Western Ghats, one of the few remaining haunts of the common hamadryad snakes. — The hamadryad is a very large species of poisonous snake, most venomous, and so swift in its movements as to have won for itself the somewhat incredible reputation of being able to coil itself into a hoop for the purpose of chasing its victim with greater rapidity. W. , when out on one occasion in the jungle after big game, was told by the beaters that a pair of hamadryads 4 were hatching some eggs in another jungle close by. The male is said, like the ostrich, to take its share in this © performance. Great precaution was necessary in order that they ; might be approached unobserved, as they are supposed to attack, if disturbed, on the slightest provocation. However, they managed to get near, and W——,, catching sight of the male, promptly shot it, then offered a reward to any one who could show him the whereabouts of the 104 j — AN ENTHUSIASTIC COLLECTOR OF SNAKES nest. A few days later a shikari found the place and escorted him there, when W——,, shooting the female too, secured the eggs. Delighted with his find, he carefully packed up the dead snake and her eggs, which were nearly hatched, and dis- patched the parcel to a friend, a well-known naturalist in Bombay, who would, no doubt, as he imagined, be most ; for so interesting an addition to his collection. : But, not being a naturalist himself, nor aware of the [ _ vyoracity of their kind in the matter of specimens, he had, _ as it appeared, over-estimated the value of his contribu- _ tion, for in the course of a week or so he received a letter _ from his friend reproaching him indignantly for sending _ him “a few eggs and a dead snake, when he might so easily __ have captured and sent him the whole family alive! ” _ He evidently meant to imply that my friend should have _ waited until the eggs were hatched, and then to make a _ wholesale capture of the parents and their progeny, but __ how two such deadly reptiles—to say nothing of the little _ ones possibly as venomous—were to be caught, he did not trouble to explain. _ §$Strangely enough, this enthusiastic collector, who, by the way, was much liked and respected by all, eventually fell a victim to this mania for collecting such dangerous Specimens, for some time afterwards he was bitten, and lost his life through handling some venomous snakes in his collection in Bombay. Another friend of mine, H , an Indian civilian, was _ nee witness to a somewhat interesting incident in which _ one of his men was bitten by a cobra. I venture to relate _this because it is one of the very few authenticated cases of a cure being effected by the snake-stone, of which many have doubtless heard, but apparently few believe in. ___ The friend in question was seated in his verandah one morning, when one of his servants came running up to him, exclaiming that he had just been bitten by a snake and Showed two marks on his ankle, which after careful examina- tion seemed to have undoubtedly been made by the fangs a snake. Meanwhile, some peons and others had chased and killed the snake, which proved to be a large and almost 105 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER black cobra, the most venomous of the species. Every one was naturally much alarmed, and, including the victim himself, prepared for the worst, for there was no cure or antidote known of in those days. The man soon showed symptoms of the poison, and had already become drowsy, when some religious mendicants, happening to pass along the road near the bungalow, saw the dead snake, which had been thrown there, and question- ing the servants, ascertained what had happened. They now came into the compound, asking to be allowed to see and cure the bitten man, and this request being granted, one of them unswathed his turban and undoing a knot in it, extracted a small blue green stone of a some- what spongy appearance. Wetting this with spittle, he rubbed it on the wounds, at the same time making passes and uttering certain incantations. He repeated this per- formance three times, then informed the patient, who certainly seemed better, that he would be quite all right now and free from all effects of the poison. He then proceeded to tie up his treasured talisman, and © making his salaams, was going off, when my friend, who had been much interested in this proceeding, engaged him in conversation with a view to finding out what was the com- position, etc., of the stone, and finally asked him whether he would sell it. But this he absolutely declined to do, declaring it was an heirloom, handed down from many generations, nor would he permit the stone to be touched by any one. Finally, accepting a small reward, he went off with the — rest of his companions. Meanwhile, the man bitten had — been rapidly improving, and in a short time was perfectly well ! Doubtless the virtue of these stones lies in the fact of their being porous and strongly absorbent, thus, when placed against a snake-fang puncture, gradually draw off all the poison. This, at any rate, is the generally accepted explanation of the native superstition, which attribute to these stones a mysteriously miraculous power brought into operation only by passes and incantations such as I have described. I have since heard that Faquirs and others who make a — 106 ee Oh Oe ey 3 has BE ie ee ne ee Te ee ed ak rk, J th ee he, TWO SNAKE ADVENTURES ‘ practice of using these stones as snake-bite curers, sur- reptitiously soak them in milk, after each operation, to 7 them of the poison they have absorbed so as to to use again, but how far this is true I cannot it is not often that Europeans are exposed to snakes, I had once a very narrow escape fi SSN ee Ee Ee oe eT hee ee ae Pe : A z ; a t one morning from my bath, I sat down at table and stretching out my legs underneath something cold under my feet, both of which were ing down, I discovered to my horror that one resting on a coiled-up snake. had the presence of mind to move the foot and seizing the nearest weapon I could find, tely happened to be my best fishing-rod, 5 at the beast, which was fortunately somewhat ‘ either from a full meal_or the cold. I smashed : to pieces, but seemed to make little impression on j which was finally finished off by my orderly, ; hearing the disturbance came to my assistance. The : : o a § 2 SS EIS Te LE Te ee : i He | proved to be a cobra. I had thus every reason to be _ thankful for my escape. é, The only other case I remember of Europeans being a | to danger from snakes was of a man who, with his _ wife and children, was staying with a friend. Coming in _ from shooting one day, he saw a huge snake in the hall close to where his children were playing. Slipping a cartridge into his gun, he promptly shot it, and only then discovered that it was a harmless rock snake that he had ‘ However, as it is always safer to assume that all Indian snakes are dangerous, this fact did not trouble him, and when he met his host he told him what had happened, ‘but to his amazement, the latter, so far from expressing : regret for the anxiety he had suffered, was most ilienent, and reproached him for, what he was pleased ap gat ibe, his inhumanity in killing a harmless _ Too angry at the moment to reply, he waited till he felt calmer, then asked if he would kindly tell him how he could have ascertained whether the snake was harmless or not, 107 be =a Be; TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER adding that another time it would perhaps be better to examine a snake’s fangs before shooting it ! * * % * * My next station was Shikarpur, which enjoys the evil reputation of being, during the hot season, the hottest place in India. In fact, by those who have experienced its fiery climate, it has often been described as “ rivalling, in their estimation, a certain warmer spot below, and only separated from it by a sheet of thin brown paper.” How far this comparison may be true, I am, fortunately, not in a position to say, but judging from my knowledge of places on the surface of the earth, it is quite the warmest I have been in. And apparently the Government is of the same opinion, for all officials posted there receive a com- pensation allowance of Rs.100 a month as extra pay. The houses, too, are all built with thick mud walls and have flat tops which are used at night to sleep on, andeven — then it is only by sprinkling the bed from time to time with — water, and having a punkah overhead, that it is possible to obtain a few hours’ sleep. Some, indeed, go so far as to have a tub of water near the bed to plunge into occasionally ; another drawback, too, are the sand-flies which, numerous and persistent as mosquitoes, are a perfect pest. There is no regular rainfall, but the vegetation is ‘maintained by a system of irrigation and the occasional overflowing of the Indus river. A sandstorm at rare intervals somewhat cools the atmosphere, but during the hot weather we put in as much time as we could spare at Sukkur on the Indus, where the cooler breezes of the river made life somewhat more tolerable. Strangely enough, though, in spite of their hot dry climate, the gardens, both at Shikarpur and Sukkur, are exceptionally flourishing, full of the graceful date and palms, and other tropical trees. The cold weather, though short, is quite severe, and during this season excellent small-game shooting can be had, especially at a place called Larkhana, where, on the numerous tanks, there are wild fowl in plenty and snipe also near the banks. Quail and partridge, too, are plentiful, including the black and handsome variety of 108 [To face p. 1 CHIEF OF KHAIRPUR, MURAD, ALI (Baluchistan.) IBEX. MY FINEST KOODOO BULL: [To face p. 109. bier ck, at 2 2 3 : F - - t : _ rier a nl MOP PAE “ A SPORTING OLD REPROBATE ‘the latter, which, together with the chakoor, are also to _ There is no big game in the district except the ibex, a wild goat of Asia Minor, which I have described in a chapter. While stationed at Shikarpur, I spent some pleasant S days with Ali Murad, the chief of Khairpur, who, though over | seventy years of age then, was an exceedingly good sports- Man and magnificent shot. He had excellent reserves well stocked with wild hogs and hog deer. _ ‘These were driven out by a multitude of beaters past _ the guns, and, by the chief and his followers, fired at indis- 3 ' criminately, no quarter being given to the pigs. However, except the chief himself, who rarely missed a shot, the j shooting of his entourage was exceedingly, not to say _ dangerously, wild, their bullets being heard whistling in all directions but the right one. ; We also had a day out with Ali Murad’s falcons, which _ we followed on horseback. They were wonderfully trained "birds, and it was a very pretty sight to see their flight after hare and partridge, and to watch the curious manner in which they were lured back, but, on the whole, the sport _ was not one that appealed to me. a The ancient chieftain was a ruler of the old-fashioned _ autocratic type, and the hero of numerous interesting _ adventures, which, unfortunately, it would not be diplo- He was much pleased at a photo I took One of the most curious things I noticed while at was the manner in which fishing is done on the The fisherman lies on his stomach extended on a earthen “ “ chatty,” and thus drifts down the stream, The principal is the pullah, which is very bony, but makes excellent 109 CHAPTER XV After furlough—Posted to Bijapur—aA city of the dead—Tomb as official residence—Mosque with whispering gallery—A dome larger than St. Paul’s—My tomb-house—Its advantages and drawbacks—Plague and famine—My next station—The sacred city of Nasik—On plague duty —High-handedness and extortion—Discontent—Riot and murder— Victims of the plague—Dacoities and sedition—Police measures—A robber chief—His formidable gang—Baffles the police—A Police Post attacked—Pursuit—A havildar and his men killed—Vengeance on a — spy—Organize a flying column—The robber stronghold stormed— — Desperate resistance—Heavy casualties on both sides—Capture of ring-leader and his gang—Treasure recovered—aA fine body of men— A wounded robber chief in hospital—Some startling revelations—A _ sporting ruffian—Sedition in Nasik—Mistaken sympathy from the — Press—Trial and conviction of the ring-leaders—Inadequate sentences — —Agitation renewed—Manufacture of bombs—Art acquired in Europe by so-called students—Murder of officialk—A judge shot in native theatre. Arter furlough home and some further service in Khandesh, ~ I found myself posted at that dread city of the dead, Bijapur, where most of the official residences are converted, ancient tombs. This place boasts of a mosque with whisper- ing gallery and dome, the latter said to be larger than St. Paul’s, also several other beautiful mosques and tombs. My particular residence was believed to have been the — tomb of two sisters, both famous in their way, but for what, — I cannot say. However, owing to the great thickness of — the walls, the house, if I may call it so, was fairly cool — during the day if kept carefully closed. In the evening, however, it was quite impossible to sit — anywhere near the house, the heat the walls threw off — being absolutely unbearable. Plague and famine, too, — were both rife in the district at the time, so that altogether — my lot was not a happy one. The only compensation was that black-buck were very 7 110 ae oe ae PLAGUE, FAMINE AND EXTORTION plentiful and the country being open they afforded good My next station was Nasik, a most interesting, healthy _ station, and the second most sacred city in India, Trimbak, _ the source of the river Godavery, being eighteen miles only _ from Nasik city. There are particularly good golf links too, and now, I _ believe, quite a large residential Golf Club. Bombay being about four hours by rail only, and Nasik having a more _ temperate climate, forms a pleasant retreat for hard- _ working Bombay men at most times of the year. Teame in, however, for a full share of plague and famine ; troubles, and the whole district was dotted about with i Segregation camps. At one time, on account of plague, the whole city had to be evacuated, and it was a melancholy ] sight to see rows upon rows of empty houses and shops = marked, as in the famous plague of London, but with a red _ Government mark instead of a cross. _ Notwithstanding the tremendous efforts made by the _ humerous civilian and military officers on special plague duty, there is no doubt that a great deal of hig high-handed- “ness Be and extortion was exercised by their understrappers in _ their official dealings with the people. __ These official parasites being mostly recruited from the high-caste Brahmins, of whom therearemany in Nasik, doubt- Tess made full use of their high social position to aid, as well as cover, their extortionate proceedings, and while acting ostensibly as Government officials, were in fact feathering their own nests. The harvest reaped by some of them was, I know, enormous. _ Phere was also great and grave dissatisfaction at many __ of the orders issued by Government, some of which were abused. This discontent, in fact, gave rise to local disturbances, culminating in a serious riot, in which the camp of the plague doctor was burnt and his assistant and several others killed. _ Plague, like cholera and enteric, is now generally accepted as one of the ills of India, but I doubt if the world at large realizes for a moment how many millions of deaths is accountable for. Some are of opinion that if when the pestilence first started the whole infected area had been lll TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER burnt down and the inhabitants completely segregated, it might probably have been nipped in the bud and many lives thus saved. So far as my own police force was concerned, I lost annually many invaluable men as well as my own servants, my favourite shikari, Gungdia, being one of the many victims to the fell disease. I found the Nasik District very bad, too, in the matter of dacoities and sedition. The first of these two evils occupied the whole attention of myself and neighbouring super- intendents of police throughout the year, for there were many difficulties to contend with, not the least of them — being due to the hills which, dividing the districts from each other, afforded shelter to the dacoits. Thus when — the police pursuit became too pressing in one district, — the individuals pursued could easily evade it by slipping over the border into these hills where they lay concealed. ~ There was considerable emulation between the police of the different districts for the capture of the absconders, but this very keenness was often the cause of their failure, for each being desirous of effecting the capture preferred © acting alone to seeking assistance from the other, thus losing the benefit of co-operation, which is so essential in police work. Many a dacoit slipped through our fingers in this way, and, as times became harder, were joined by other bad characters; eventually becoming quite a formidable gang under the leadership of one Chimanya Bowani, a — typical robber-chieftain whose fine physique and haughty bearing supported his claim to being of Rajput blood. — Under his able guidance the gang soon became quite strong © enough to hold up the principal roads and thoroughfares ~ in the district, and finally established what might be — described as a reign of terror throughout the country- — side. arrest of the leader, but so much was he feared that it was_ difficult even to obtain any news of his movements, and 112 Special police were employed to hunt the gang, and © large Government rewards offered for the arrest of any — of its members, or for information which might lead to © this result. Special rewards, too, were offered for the © Jpn i Merete ee SS aT GH ‘ the ah Si ne ae ae - = tert, and rhe A GANG OF DACOITS Te i ces ot twins, end fired at by the Lver~ he always managed to escape. The failure of the rains for two consecutive seasons caus- - ing famine, had produced great distress which, added to the _ presence and rapacity of the professional money-lenders, was the primary cause of these dacoities ; hence there was : to be said in favour of the robbers, many of “whom having been ruined by these men, had become _ criminals by necessity rather than of their own free will. But be this as it may, their depredations soon assumed _ very serious proportions, for within a very few weeks no less than one hundred and sixty dacoities, accompanied _ with murder, had been committed by this gang, who, armed _ with swords and bows, were too powerful to be resisted by the villagers. They generally mutilated their victims, - especially if they happened to be money-lenders, by _ cutting off their ears and noses or otherwise disfiguring them beyond recognition. At length, not content with plundering villages, _ Chimanya and his followers now attacked a police post on the frontier, and seizing the rifles and ammunition they found there, made off with them. Thoroughly acquainted with all the hill paths and rocky chasms of the border, they easily evaded subsequent pursuit by the who, moreover, were considerably handicapped by vy rain. I well remember the occasion and the discomforts I during this pursuit, being frequently washed out of my tents; also the exhilaration of my assistant on finding our dining-table just long enough to sleep under, and so protect him from the stream that poured through ne roof of the shanty in which we once took shelter. The on this occasion ended in failure, for many of the batels or headmen of the villages we passed, fearing reprisals, would give no information of the movements of the absconders, though, as we learnt later, they had supplied them with food and drink. er, to guard against arrest, the gang kept con- t io the move, changing their encampment every day, and were perpetually on the alert, mounting sentries wherever they auc Aaa ; so that, on the whole, 118 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the police, as is the case with all disciplined forces, operating in an unknown country and against a mobile foe, were at a considerable disadvantage. At length, however, we thought our chance had come © when one day a deserter from the enemy’s camp came to — the police and offered his services as an informer; but, as it turned out, this merely added to our difficulties, for while — he was being taken to the magistrate’s camp, the escort was attacked by the gang, who, killing the havildar in command and two constables, carried him off with them. We found the body of the poor wretch later, tied to a tree, but minus the head, which had been cut off and stuck on a pole as a warning to any villagers who might be dis- posed to act as he had done! Finally, things came to such a pass that, in spite of — extra men being supplied to each district force, it was found — that the police were insufficient, and it was decided to reinforce them by a detachment of infantry from Poonah. Before these arrived, however, I had organized a flying column of fifty picked men under a smart, reliable inspector, each man carrying sixty rounds of ammunition and provided — with provisions for a month, so as to be independent of the villagers, who, since the summary execution of the informer, — were more disinclined than ever to render assistance to the — police. in a field, where he lay wounded. We also recovered a quantity of treasure, consisting of bags of rupees, gold and silver ornaments, ete., all of which — were found lying—flung here and there about the camp— — amongst the mud and puddles, for it had been raining ~ heavily before and during the encounter. Our loss was heavy too, the inspector being wounded and ' | several men killed. However, we had the satisfaction of feeling that the gang was now thoroughly broken up, — 114 The pursuit was resumed without delay, and in the course q of a few days the stronghold of the gang in these hills was — discovered and surrounded. They made a desperate re- — sistance, fighting with great courage and desperation, but — in the end many were killed, wounded, and captured, — including the chief, whom we found the next day hiding ee te ee a a Ie me Ta Te a nN qd ts SOME STARTLING REVELATIONS ; es 2 on Coecennians ie repeal ee ing telegrams, and a subsequent resolution, winding up with the bestowal of a sword of honour to the inspector in : of his services. __ Meanwhile the military had arrived, all as keen as they could be, thinking they were in for a real sporting time, and were consequently greatly disappointed to find the _“ show ” was over, for a dacoit hunt would have been a _ pleasant break in the monotony of their life in cantonments. __ Amongst the captured members of the gang were many _ of very fine physique, whom I much regretted being unable _ to enlist in my corps, and who would doubtless have made excellent military policemen, if only on the principle of _“ Set a thief to catch a thief.” __ Thad many conversations with the Chief Chimanya while he was in hospital. Among many other things, he told me _he had no enmity against Europeans, as they had never done him any harm, i aiieh I thought was rather sporting of him, seeing that it was to them he really owed his wounds and a Snel downfall ! _ He also informed me—much to my humiliation—that on several occasions during the pursuit, both myself and my assistant as well as some of my men had met and asked his own scouts—disguised as rustics—the way to his strong- “hold! also that on one occasion my assistant was _to one of their men, quite innocent of the fact that there were several of the gang concealed close to the spot, who could have shot him quite easily had they wished ! _ But the strangest thing he told me was that “‘ one day _he and several of his men were hiding in a ravine close to . blic road, when they saw a tonga passing with a mem a inside. “He could easily have held it up,” he said, in fact his men wanted to do so, but he would not let _ Comparing dates later I was astounded to find that the lady in the tonga was my wife on her way to join me ‘Inecamp! True she had an escort of two sowars with her, i against so many they could scarcely have made an ive defence. _ On another occasion they had seen a sowar ride into ‘famp with the pay, quite a large sum of money, on a day 115 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER when we had, as he knew well, gone off after him on some false information given by a villager. So that on the whole—notwithstanding all his faults— Chimanya Bawani was certainly a sportsman in the more general sense of the term. Thus I really felt quite sorry when some time after he and many of his followers were — convicted of murder and hanged, for though they deserved their fate, it was, as I have said before, the action of the © money-lenders which had driven them to crime. x * x % * x : Another movement which the police had to contend © with was, as I have already mentioned, sedition, an evil infinitely more difficult to deal with than dacoity by reason — of its more perfect organization, and the subtlety of the — agents employed. j Nasik was always known to be seditious, as could be seen — by the insolent attitude of a certain section of the natives, — especially those of the younger generation, towards all Europeans. The stringent but necessary Government — plague precautions caused widespread inconvenience, and — the agitators worked this as a lever to make more trouble ~ for the authorities. ’ Owing to the misplaced sympathy they evoked from the English Press, and the threatening attitude they © assumed, some of the more stringent regulations, which ~ were most necessary, were unfortunately rescinded, with a view doubtless to placate the people, but without success, — as will be seen. This was naturally most depressing and ~ discouraging to the officials who were fighting the plague, — night and day, European officers actually removing plague - j corpses themselves as part of their daily routine and — sparing no effort to check the progress of the pestilence. _ Though the populace seemed satisfied at having gained their ends, there was ample evidence that trouble was seething under this apparently calm surface. The insidious ~ movement was daily gaining power, and gradually, though” surely, being disseminated throughout India by the wire- ~ pullers at Nasik. , True, the heads of the movement were ultimately tried E and found guilty, but despite the warning of certain © experienced officials, who contended that unless severely 116 | MURDER OF A JUDGE dealt with and thus rendered incapable of continuing their the men would cause more serious trouble, they were let off with quite inadequate sentences. The result of this lenient treatment became apparent in due course, for the bomb-throwing, train-wrecking and murder of officials, ete., which occurred later were practi- -eally all traced back to these original agitators in Nasik, some of whom, it was found, had made it their business to acquire the art of manufacturing deadly bombs while they were in Europe, ostensibly engaged in studying for examinations. _ Of the European officials murdered one was Mr. F——, a judge, who, strangely enough, was remarkable for his leniency to, and sympathy with, the natives, and was actually shot in a native theatre where he had gone with some other Europeans to witness a performance. 117 CHAPTER XVI Wild animals as pets—I start a menagerie—Experiments with tiger and — panther cubs—Hunting by scent or sight and hearing ?—A much- ~ vexed question practically decided—Conclusive evidence—“ Billy,” my tiger cub—Pillow fights with tiger cubs—The dog-boy and his charges—A troublesome pair—Gymkhana for the police—Bicycles — supersede horses—Revisit Khandesh—A hunting box—Old friends—_ Shooting under difficulties—Blank days—A tiger at last reported— The beat—A tiger and tigress put up—Charging the beaters—Situation — becomes dangerous—Rescuing the stops—The beat abandoned for — the night—Disappointment—Nasik antiquities—Traffic in curios— — Made in Birmingham—Transferred to Dharwar—Shooting off ladders — —An accident near ending in a tragedy—Fit only for a madhouse— : An interesting temple—The god Khundobar—Said to have been a — sportsman—Hunting with the hounds—Worshippers assume attitude — and character of dogs—Feeding the dog-devotees—On allfours—Biting — and barking—A repulsive and degrading exhibition—Backsheesh the — main object. : AuTHoucH my time while stationed at Nasik was mostly © taken up, as I have shown, with dacoities and sedition, I managed to find leisure for other occupations, including © the collecting of live wild animals as pets, and in time had ~ quite a respectable menagerie, amongst these, a chetul, a black-buck, two small gazelle, and also panther and tiger | cubs. Interested as I have always been in wild animals of — every kind, I have closely watched their habits, in their own jungle, as far as possible, but more particularly when I have had them as pets, and in the case of tigers and leopards, have tried many experiments with the young of both, with a view to settling the much-vexed question as_ to whether these carnivora hunt by scent or primarily by sight and hearing. . As it occurred to me that the surest way of deciding this was to try the cubs with flesh, I used to drag pieces of 118 ——" [To face p, 118, A SHOOTING CAMP. THE INDIAN BOAR. Bes : [To face p ACHING TIGERHOOD APPRO. the Cub. ”? “ Billy le Alle Sn aie a A TROUBLESOME PAIR ; high meat along the floor, then hide them in various corners of the room, but in spite of all encouragement I never succeeded in inducing the cubs to take up the scent. On the other hand, carefully watching their demeanour, I noticed that they rarely appeared to be scenting, but were _ always keenly watching and listening. This, to my mind, is conclusive evidence that the tiger and panther hunt by sight and hearing rather than by smell. In support of which theory there is, I think, circumstantial evidence too, for I firmly believe if such destructive beasts as these were capable of hunting by scent, there would be no other animal left alive in any jungle they frequented. _ Amongst the tiger cubs I have kept from time to time as pets was one “ Billy,” shown in the accompanying photo, who, for a tiger cub, was particularly affectionate and docile. He died of paralysis of the spine, a very frequent cause of death with such animals in captivity. Two other tiger cubs I had were about the size of spaniels and a most amusing pair they were. They used to run loose in my tent and in the morning shared my early _ breakfast. At times their play was apt to be rather too rough, and I have frequently been obliged to drive them off _ by flooring them with a pillow or bolster. They used to sleep on each side of my dog-boy, their _ chains attached to his feet, and if they disturbed or crowded _ him in the night he would cuff them as one might a terrier _ pup! They came in time to follow me about, too, quite _ as naturally as dogs. When going home on furlough I left them with a friend, _ who confidingly accepted the responsibility, but some six months later, wrote to me complaining of their conduct. _ It appeared that, as they increased in size, they had de- _ veloped a desire to kill and consume other animals in the station, particularly goats, of whom they had already _ killed a goodly number, and had now taken to stalking _ children, apparently with like intent, which, as my friend _ naively observed, had made both himself and them dis- _ tinctly unpopular. However, as I heard no more complaints, _ I assumed he had found means to prevent these man- _ eaters in embryo from carrying out their fell design. * * * t * 119 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER With a view to instilling a sporting spirit amongst my men, I introduced gymkhanas for the police force, in- cluding tent-pegging, etc., in which other officials in the station often took a part, as well as some of the officers from the military depét nine miles off, who occasionally came in. As prices advanced, however, owing to the famine, and living consequently became dearer, many Europeans put down their horses and took to bicycles instead. Finding these as convenient and necessarily more economical, several retained them permanently, with the result that bicycle, in place of horse, events became ultimately the chief feature in these gymkhana. No doubt some of the feats performed on these machines were extraordinarily clever, but I often used to wonder what our veteran sportsmen—now retired or defunct— would have said to seeing the horse supplanted by such inanimate steeds as these! For performances on the latter, however clever and complicated they might be, can scarcely be compared with the bare-backed mounted events, and other daring equine feats, which, in the days of these old sportsmen, eepieenreos the Aameaienso. * % During the period t was iatinoed at Nasik, I went all my Christmases as usual in camp, going one year for ten : days to Pal, in my old District Khandesh, and one of my favourite old haunts where I had heard tigers had increased considerably since I left. I hoped therefore to get some, and possibly bison teu for though I had killed so many of the latter, and have several good heads, I had never kept a mask, so was anxious to get one to set up. The cold at Pal is so intense that we had finally to abandon our tents and take up our quarters in a small, forest hut, built of mud, and consisting of three small — rooms. It had been built by a certain cheery individual, a doctor named P. » who, in a fit of generosity, presented it to the Government. He used to be very amusing on the subject of the Govern- ment Resolution he had received in return, thanking him for his munificent gift, but poor as was the building I often 120 " 2 a MY aa» ee ee i ia ka cee by yp iy eo ngs KHANDESH REVISITED blessed him for having built it, as it had afforded me warm shelter on many an occasion. _ My trip this time, however, proved somewhat unprofit- able, so far as the shooting was concerned, though it was very pleasant to be back again amongst old scenes and faces, for many of the ahtkarie I had known, and friends from native states, all came in to welcome me. They had quite decided that being now a married man, I could no longer be the keen shikari I had been, and I was very glad of the op sg ty of correcting this impression. ition "$ my wife a friend from the Deolali depét bs enerarwe me on this trip, the best and cheeriest of comrades, who almost directly afterwards, poor fellow, _was killed in the South African campaign. We had several blank beats, and on one occasion I was posted with my wife on the identical tree from which many years before I had killed a tigress, though suffering at the time from a severe attack of ; __ I remember trembling so violently while the beast came on, that I was afraid her attention would be attracted to the tree. However, she came out straight toward me, and “managing, somehow, to get my shaking rifle on to her, I rolled her over with a bullet through the forehead. _. The blank beats I have mentioned continued for some days. At last, late one morning, we got good khubbar of a Hees having killed one of the buffaloes we had tied up as : ee started off at once, but the place was a long distance away, and by the time we arrived there, and made all arrangements for the beat, it was already late afternoon. _ As my friend H had never shot a tiger I was par- ticularly anxious that he should have the shot, so gave him the best place, but it was a very large piece of jungle and difficult, not merely to beat, but to command all its natural outlets with two guns only. __ However, as it happened, at the first sound of the beaters, a fine tiger came out about fifty yards from his tree, but behind him, and as H——— could not turn round aed enough, the beast went on. _ As soon as I realized that H——— was unable to fire, _and that the tiger, if not stopped, would probably get away, 121 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER I took a snap shot at him, as he was galloping through the undergrowth, but unfortunately missed. He was, however, turned by one of the stops and roared. We then discovered that there was another tiger or tigress in the jungle, for the roar was instantly replied to, and presently the two beasts, roaring alternately, kept charging the beaters in turn, both H. being greatly impressed by the volume of sound they produced. Meanwhile the sun having gone down the light was fading rapidly, and I saw that the only thing to be done was to stop the beat and get out of the jungle as quietly as we could, in the hope of getting them the next day. We found, however, that to get out of the jungle, — quietly or otherwise, was more difficult than I had imagined. — The tigers having been disturbed and hustled were now — thoroughly savage, charging out whenever the stops tried © to leave their trees, and we had finally to go round to each © and get the men down under cover of our rifles, and it was — quite dark when we reached home. Next morning on visiting the jungle we found that both — the tigers had cleared off—probably during the night or early morning; we accordingly returned to camp, and — drove on to Nasik, thoroughly disappointed, and with — nothing more agreeable to remind us of this trip than a ~ severe attack of malaria, which each and all of us, including © all our servants, had managed to pick up! In addition to its other attractions, some of which I - have attempted to describe, Nasik has long enjoyed a — reputation for its possession of antiquities; the most celebrated amongst them being its old brass idols, — chains, ete., etc., and many officials stationed there from — time to time have, in days gone by, made valuable collec- — tions of genuinely antique specimens of these articles. Latterly, however, tourists, notably Americans, have © paid such long prices for these curiosities that there are ~ now few of the genuine article left. Nevertheless the wily © natives, finding the demand for them in no way diminished, — has proved himself quite equal to the occasion by importing q large quantities from England ! Made, probably in Birmingham, and admirably executed a 122 ee! eee ee ee and my wife — eve LOR eae ee SHOOTING FROM LADDERS in imitation of the original, these are then buried or put down an old well for a season, whence they issue as “ antique” as even an American could desire, and would trouble the most expert of experts to detect. These are now hawked round and sold at most profitable rates, as I know to my cost, having purchased some myself, till I had learned to be wiser. But the genuine article, such as bed and swing chains, all beautifully carved, which in former years could be obtained for the price of their weight, as brass, now fetches as much as Rs.100 each, and are difficult to obtain even at this price. * * * * * # My period of service at Nasik having expired I was next posted to Dharwar, a pretty healthy spot, situated in the western ghats. It was considered at one time quite a good district for big game, but the increase of cultivation, and the clearing of the forest, has practically ruined the shooting, and big game can now be obtained only after much trouble and arrangement. I found it was the practice in this part of the country, and in Kanara, for sportsmen, when beating for tiger or _ other big game, to shoot from ladders propped up against a tree, instead of sitting on the tree itself as is generally _ done elsewhere. __ These ladders are specially made for the purpose, _ having a kind of seat on the topmost rung, but this seemed _ to me a clumsy arrangement, for besides being cumbersome _ to carry about, they are liable to slip, and also likely to _ attract the attention of the animal. I had some trouble, however, in inducing the local Shikaris to use the simpler contrivance employed in _Khandesh, which consists of two poles, each about five feet long. These are fixed parallel to each other, across _ two or more projecting branches, thus forming, not only a comfortable seat, but one from which the sportsman ean shoot in all directions. _ Moreover, in a perch made in this manner the occupant is absolutely safe, whereas a ladder, as I have said, is liable to slip, and in a case I heard of later, actually did, causing _ @ Serious accident. The incident happened to Colonel P——, a celebrated 123 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER Kanara sportsman, who told me of it himself, and though there was a comic side to the story, the incident in itself came near to ending in as terrible a tragedy as it would be possible to imagine. It appears that on one occasion while shooting with a young civilian, just out from home, he was climbing to his position when the ladder slipped, the fall breaking his thigh. The youngster ran to assist him, and P , who was in excruciating agony, and hardly knew what he was saying, called out, “‘ Oh, for God’s sake shoot — me!” A few moments later, having recovered his composure, | he found, to his horror, the muzzle of a rifle pointing to — his head and the trembling young civilian evidently about — to carry out the request he had involuntarily uttered! I refrain from describing the language he used, but it was not complimentary to the intelligence of his friend, who — in his opinion, as he told him, was fit only for a mad-house, or at best, an appointment in the Secretariat ! In a village of the Dharwar district, near to Ranu-~ brunner, there is a very interesting temple dedicated to the worship of the god Khundobar, a very ancient deity — to whom, however, there are now very few temples re- — maining. The special one referred to stands on the summit of a — small hill, and is deserving of mention if only for the very curious attitude adopted by the worshippers at this shrine, who, when practising their devotions, assume the characters — of dogs. Tradition has it that this particular god to whom ~ the temple is erected, was a great shikari, and, with his — pack of hounds, hunted the hills around, but strangely — enough in the one or two other temples, to this god, still © remaining, there is no trace of the canine portion of the ~ legend at all. Girls are still dedicated to the use of this temple, and the © dog-devotees are furnished from the villages round about, certain families undertaking to supply a number, presum- ably in each generation. They live on the villagers, apparently do no work, and are in fact a perfect pest. When the temple authorities are informed that any official wishes to see the temple, they generally make as imposing a show as possible, collecting a number of the 124 DOG-DEVOTEES devotees, who are rough-looking specimens, wearing black, hairy caps, red sashes, and are of a generally shaggy appearance all over. _ The presiding priest, on receipt of baksheesh, produces some bananas, which he slices up, and placing them on small brass troughs, calls up the “ dogs.” These come scrambling along on all fours, barking and yelping, and even fighting, growling and biting at each other over the troughs, till having secured a trough each, return to a corner to eat ‘it in solitude. __ They do not use their hands, but eat too, like dogs from the troughs, which are beautifully made in solid brass and very old. One of my friends was lucky enough to pick up one of these, as they are difficult to buy, and also ‘some of the little images of horses from the temple. The god himself is not repulsive to look at, and his images often have the symbolical five cobras over their heads. After thedog-devotees have been fed, and if the baksheesh has been generous, and the supply of bananas plentiful, they will give a further exhibition of their dog-like antics, growling, fighting, leaping, howling, and rolling about in a ridiculous and most repulsive manner, and finally canter barking down the hill by way of giving their departing visitors a good send off. These people also attend the larger fairs, attracting crowds by their many tricks with knives and skewers, which they pass through the muscles of their arms, thighs, ‘and calves, till they are streaming with blood. It is said that b on methods of massage and manipulation they are to place the knives between the muscles, and thus avoid any serious injury resulting from the wound. Doubt- . this strange worship with its many corruptions will “eventually die out, and the sooner the better, for though the ridiculous antics are amusing for a time, and evidently enjoyed by the performers themselves, their mode of life peecaot fail to be degrading. sec ph tat = 125 CHAPTER XVII The Western Ghats—Castle Rock and Morumgoa—Fine scenery—Spend — a hot season at Castle Rock—A kill in a ravine—The guns posted—A tiger viewed—A doubtful hit—Bapu the optimist—A tell-tale leaf— An advance in close order—The enemy prepares to charge—Careful shooting necessary—Success—Following up a wounded bear—A curious story—Second sight—An apparition in the night—Convincing evidence—An apology to my readers—Another tiger marked down— — Caught napping—An unexpected encounter—My perilous position— — Face to face—A desperate proceeding—Seeking refuge in a bush—A — precarious shelter—Suspense relieved—A lucky shot—Curious evidence of a recent victim—A man-eating panther—Carries off a child—The — body found—Watching over the remains—An eerie vigil—A jackal — greedy but suspicious—The panther at last—Creeping up to the — ** kill °’—Only five yards off—A steady shot at his chest—Hit but not — dead—Too dangerous to follow up by night—The hunt resumed— — Tracking by blood and footprints—-Found dead—A well-nourished — beast—The fallacy of theories regarding man-eaters. THE magnificent scenery of the Western Ghats is too well known to need any description, and is too beautiful for any — one—except an expert with pen or pencil—to depict. Castle Rock on the S. M. Railway and Morumgoa were the two places we generally went to. The latter used to be at one time somewhat famous for the number of tigers and panthers to be found in the neighbourhood, and a friend of mine, who was once stationed there as consul and head of the'railway, shot a good many. ~ The jungles around still contain some of these beasts, and bison, too, I believe. These jungles, which connect with those of the Kanara District, contain many a hill and valley of quite extra- ordinary beauty, and in the course of our shikar expedition — we often came on exquisite little nooks and streams bordered 5 with the Royal Osmunda fern. The whole of our hot weather we spent at Castle Rock — 126 Re ee, ee a Ee ie Oe ee Cee a fi; i & 3 ie ‘ we, ! ss BAPU TRIUMPHANT _ where I was then acting as Railway—as well as District— Superintendent of Police, and while shooting towards the end of that hot season with two friends, W——- and B——, _ we received news of a tiger having killed and eaten the | greater part of a buffalo we had tied up the night before. _ The kill was in a deep ravine filled with high grass and _ bushes and flanked on both sides by huge masses of rocky _ boulders. __ We had taken up our positions on trees, after sending _ men round to drive towards us, when we heard loud shouts, followed by roars from the tiger. Presently one of the | stops to my right called out that the tiger had broken back. _ Searcely had the man spoken, when there was another _uproar among the beaters, and the next moment I saw the peer coming along the bed of the ravine at a brisk trot i roaring loudly all the time. _ When about sixty yards from my tree, he suddenly Sprang up the bank. I had now enly occasional views of hin a among the boulders, but noting an open space across which he was bound to pass, I watched it closely with my le ready, and as he was crossing it, I fired. He swerved distinctly at the shot and disappeared over ridge. Meanwhile the beaters having come up, we owed on the tracks, but finding no blood my friends their shikaris naturally concluded I had missed. I very confident, however, I had hit him somewhere, anc while W——— and B—— were condoling with me on my miss, Bapu my own shikari, who had great faith in his Ster’s shooting, and had followed on alone on the track mn back to us, and with a broad grin illuminating his eC seein held up a leaf on which there was a few = danger, for the cover was very dense and high, blag posed mostly of thick bamboo jungle. _ Keeping well together, however, with the guns in front proceeded cautiously, halting frequently to allow of men climbing into trees and examining the ground fore us, in hopes of obtaining a view of the beast. er Bapu, who was leading, dropped on all fours, ting in front of him, and at the same moment I caught 127 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER sight of the tiger crouching behind a clump of bamboos. Calling to the others that I had seen him, and warning them that he was wounded and therefore dangerous, we con- tinued to advance, but more cautiously than before. When within about ten yards of her, for she proved to be a tigress, I noticed the end of her tail twitching nervously like that of a cat when stalking a bird, and knowing from this that she was on the point of charging, I took careful aim and fired. The bullet, striking her between the neck and shoulders, killed her on the spot, which was fortunate, for had she made good her charge, one or more of us must assuredly have been mauled, if not killed. She was a handsome beast though small, being only eight feet six inches, but with a finely marked skin. On return to camp, the village turned out in great num bers and were much rejoiced, in their own apathetic way for it seemed she had killed a number of their cattle, the ravine where she had made her lair being close to the village. My first bullet we found had struck her rather low, but being in a good line with the shoulder, she would no doubt have died eventually from the wound. % * * * * * Writing of following up wounded animals, reminds me of a very curious story connected with a sad accident that occurred in this way some years ago, when C of the I.C.S. was terribly mauled by a bear. While shooting in Khandesh at the foot of the Satpura Hills, it seems he had wounded a bear the day before, and while following up the blood-tracks the next day, the vicious brute charged him, inflicting ghastly wounds, and though he was taken on to the nearest place, Chopda, and attended to, he died before medical aid could reach him. The curious part of the story is, that his wife, who happened to be staying with Mrs. H. , a friend of mine at the time, and occupying the same bedroom, was awakened during the night and saw her husband in the room. She spoke to him, expressing her surprise at his returning sc unexpectedly, then waking her friend, apologized to her for the unceremonious manner in which he had come in, 128 A CASE OF SECOND SIGHT and getting out of bed apparently followed him into another room. ; Mrs. H——-, who had seen nothing herself, was naturally _ at a loss to understand what she meant, but feeling some- _ what alarmed, got up at once and followed Mrs. C—— into _ the room where she had gone, to find her lying on the floor _ in a swoon. ; On coming round she told Mrs. H——— that she felt sure _ her husband had met with some accident, as his clothes were all torn and he was bleeding from wounds on his face and The next day Mrs. H——— received a telegram saying that _ C—— was dead and asking her to break the news tohis wife. _ The story was told me by Mrs. H—— herself on whom _ the incident had naturally made a great impression, and - as she was by no means an hysterical person, or given to / romancing, I can only suppose she was repeating what had actually occurred. : * * * ® * _ In writing a narrative of adventures, extending over _ so long a period as thirty years, it is difficult to remember _ the sequence of events. I must therefore make this my _ excuse for introducing here an account of an experience with some tigers which should have been included in the description of the shooting expedition I made with Colonel Philips, part of which was described in a previous chapter. _ Of the two tigers bagged on this trip, the one which fell to my rifle was a large heavy beast with an extra- ordinarily short tail. _ The men had marked him down ina small dry sandy Yavine with barely any cover, the last place one would have thought a tiger would lie up in, more especially as there $a thickly wooded ravine not very far. _ But, as our Bhils remarked in their quaintly worded industani, “‘ Wo bagh burra lumba sey aya,” * and I have no doubt that having made a heavy meal, he had used that ravine as a temporary shelter on his way to heavier cover, and had thus been caught napping. We found later that he had in fact killed a bullock just before. * “That tiger has come a long distance.” K 129 * TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER We tossed up for places, and Philips winning the toss, chose the more likely post, a small teak tree standing at the head of the ravine. After seeing him comfortably installed, I took up my post, some fifty yards to his extreme right on a side path leading to the covert, my idea being to intercept the tiger should he attempt to leave the ravine by this path, which, however, was not very likely, as the ground, except for a few scanty thorn bushes here and there was practically bare. The shouts of the beaters were soon challenged by a loud roar from the tiger on my friend’s left, and I was gazing intently in his direction, momentarily expecting to hear the report of his rifle, when I suddenly felt there was some one behind me. Instantly looking round, I was horrified to find myself face to face with a huge tiger, with searcely a yard between us. Fortunately the beast was so intent on slinking away from the beaters that he had evidently not seen me; my clothes, sunburnt arms, face and legs being all much the same colour as the ground. To blaze into his face, drop my rifle and dive into the thorn bushes, was all the work of an instant, and in this precarious shelter I remained, perfectly still, and hardly daring to breathe. Presently, to my intense relief and joy, I heard one of the stops calling out that the tiger was dead. It had been killed by the veriest accident, the bullet merely grazing the top of the head, but providentially deep enough to fracture the skull. P , who now joined me, was full of congratulations at my wonderful escape, for he had witnessed the whole incident from his tree. He now told me how the tiger had shown himself for a moment on his left, and as suddenly dropped into the nullah, and passing one of the stops who failed to stop him, had gone creeping stealthily along in my direction with his chin almost touching the ground, and his eyes gazing straight in front of him. On skinning the tiger, which as I have said was an exceptionally big one, we found the broken quill of a porcupine deeply embedded in his jaws and paws. % * * * % * I think I have already stated somewhere that when a 130 A MAN-EATING PANTHER takes to man-killing, he becomes a far more terrible ourge than even the more famous man-eating tiger. _ One of the worst examples of a man-eating panther I have come across was on one occasion when I was en- camped at Wagra, a small Bhil hamlet consisting of a few ieee tai the Bharwane State. A large panther had carried ; off a child, in broad daylight, who was playing with other children within a stone’s throw of the village. The same animal had also, it appeared, killed and eaten a woman, collecting fire-wood, a short time before, but her body was never found. It was late in the afternoon when I heard of the animal’s Rt wiktis, and going at once to the sp ot, I took up the ‘tracks along a deep nullah which skirted the village, and ‘presently came upon the body of the child. There were the usual fang-marks on the throat, and a portion of the thest and abdomen had been eaten. _ After much persuasion the relatives of the dead child aed to my request to leave the corpse where it lay in ! that I might sit up near it, in the hope that the her might return, when by shooting it I could, as I »0inted out to them, rid the village of the pest. : _ There was no suitable tree on which I could build a chan, so I concealed myself behind a bush, adding a few aches as a further protection, but so arranged that I ald look through them. I decided to sit alone as my Havildar-cum-Shikari, sugh very keen to watch with me, had unfortunately a d cough at the time, and I was afraid lest an untimely oxysm occurring, he should scare the beast away. ‘In my previous remarks on man-eaters I have pointed that the rapidity and uncertainty of their movements ¢ it most difficult to locate them, and that they are very y and cautious in approaching a kill. I therefore took yery precaution to prevent myself being seen or heard ; ne Vin ong to my Rigby rifle had also a D.B. 10-bore 9acded Wi Ss It was a bright moonlight night, and the intense still- of the jungle, plus the ghastly object over which I was » had a none too pleasing effect on my nerves, and as the night drew on I felt distinctly “ creepy.’ 181 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER Presently a single jackal appeared and giving a quick pull at the corpse as quickly slunk away, looking continu- ally behind him. Just then I saw a huge panther coming stealthily along among the bushes, fringing the nullah banks, and halting about fifteen yards off, stood gazing intently in my direction. I thought at first it was a tiger, so enormous did the beast appear in the moonlight, and I was meditating whether to fire or let him come closer, when he again crept forward, and then stood facing me about five yards off. Now was my chance, and aiming very deliberately at his chest I pulled the trigger slowly. Acknowledging the shot with a loud roar he plunged into the thicket where he now remained though hidden from my sight. That he was hit I had no doubt, for presently there issued from the covert a succession of low groans with an occasional deep coughing sigh, and although I could not see him, I guessed from the sound that my bullet had done its work. My men on hearing the report of the rifle now came up with lighted torches, all keen to advance into the jungle, but I would not allow them to embark on such a dangerous task by night, for though almost convinced the beast was dead, the risk seemed too great. By the first streak of dawn we were up and on our way to the jungle, where, on arrival, I was startled to find the corpse, or what remained of it, had disappeared. Could it be that I had missed the beast after all, or that he had. again returned to his kill and completed his dreadful feast? I hardly thought it possible, and yet it seemed unpleasantly like it. Happily a closer examination proved to us that it was the hyenas and jackals who had been feasting on the remains, for the footprints of these animals were plainly visible all round. But the tracks of the panther too were there, which we now took up, and, aided by the blood, of which there — was a quantity on the trail, we soon came up to him, lying stone dead in a bush. On examining the body I found my express bullet had — struck him exactly in the centre of the chest, smashing — the heart and lungs to pieces. He measured just seven feet eight inches from tip of © 132 to end of tail, and was a stout heavy beast, very erent to the mangy toothless creature which, i the now exploded theory, all man-eaters were believed be. This one, in fact, was exceptionally well nourished, t «os oy a odious as was the habit he had acquired, e diet he had taken to evidently agreed with him. 133 CHAPTER XVIII A bait taken—Living animals as bait—A seemingly cruel practice— Reasons for adopting it—A tigress put up—Missed—Charging through the beaters—Cubs discovered—Anall-night vigil—The tigress returns— Finding her cubs—Process described—An opportunity lost—The cubs disappear—Tigress or ghost—How the cubs were removed—Morning at last—Tracking up—Death of the tigress—The cubs found—Dharwar again—A shooting camp—Newsof game—Daily disappointments—T wo tigers reported at last—-The beat—Turned by a stop—A roar and a rush —A hurried shot—Instantaneous effects—The tiger’s mate—Beaters charged again—Marked down—Drawing lots for places—A tempting offer—Why I rejected it—Premature congratulation—The tigress let off again—Questions and answers—Extraordinary performance— Subsequent explanations—What might have been accomplished— The shikaris’ disgust—A panther in my tent—My dogs wake me up—A desperate struggle in the dark—Firing haphazard—A sudden crash— Ominous silence—The servants aroused—They arrive with a lantern —What the light revealed—One dog missing—Carried off by a panther —A fruitless pursuit in the dark—Resumed at daybreak—Remains of Rover found— v ’ HOW TO CURE SKINS AND HEADS of the inside of the thighs, meeting the main cut first made about six inches from the root of the tail. The skin round the eyes and ears should be carefully separated from the skull, and as close to the bone as possible, the lips being pared as thin as they can be done without destroying the roots of the moustache. Now remove every particle of flesh and fat from the skin, especially about the lips and ears. Then, a suitable spot having been selected in the shade, and thoroughly cleaned, cover it over with a thin: layer of clean straw, and peg the skin down on it, fur downwards and as symmetrically as possible, great care being taken to preserve its original proportions, which can best be accomplished by a liberal use of pegs.* A _ good width should be obtained across the shoulders so that the yellow fur may be entirely surrounded by its _ margin of white, and thus add greatly to the beauty of _ the skin. The ears, lips, and feet must be well painted _ over with a strong solution of arsenical soap, the rest of _ the skin being rubbed with finely powdered burnt alum, _ or if alum is not procurable, wood ashes, which will answer _ the purpose for awhile, and till properly cured. The skin will take about three days to dry, and should _ then be sprinkled freely with turpentine on the fur side _ to keep insects off. After this it should be rolled up, with _ Sheets of paper inside to prevent the fur being rubbed off, _ and sent home in this condition to be tanned, for natives _ are not good hands at tanning, and are apt to use salt, _ which rots the skin, especially in hot damp weather, and _ Many a good skin has been spoilt by being treated in this _ Way. The skulls of tigers, panthers, etc., can be cleaned after the fleshy parts have been thoroughly removed with a knife. _ The four large canine fangs or teeth should be covered with a thick coating of bees’ wax to exclude the air, or _ are liable to splinter. It is a curious fact that while many _ of the fangs are hollow, others are solid, heavy ivory. In preserving the masks of deer or antelope for setting up, care should be taken to remove the skin of the whole * It is a good plan to peg the skin down at the nose and end of tail, _ Gighteen inches longer than the animal actually measures, for no amount of transverse stretching then can pull the skin out of proportion.—AvTHoR. 149 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER neck. Make the incision up the back of the neck and over the head between the ears, till the horns are reached—if these are wide apart, cut between them—tright and left, cairying the incision right round the base of each horn. In separating the skin from the “‘ bur ” or base, be careful that the knife does not slip, especially in the region of the eyelids, nostrils, and ears. After the mask has been removed, cleanse it thoroughly of all fat and flesh, and rub in alum or wood-ash, the eyes, etc., being treated with arsenical soap, and then leave the mask to dry in the shade. Bison and buffalo, as well as the larger Indian and African antelope, are very difficult to preserve owing to the remarkable thickness of their skins, but by making several incisions from the inside, to enable the preservative to penetrate the skin thoroughly, this difficulty can be overcome. Even when set up it is a great mistake to expose head or skins to strong sunlight as they soon fade and so lose — their striking appearance. This particularly applies to lion and tiger skins, these being more susceptible than those of other animals. All trophies such as heads and skins should be carefully brushed at least once a week, and during the moth season, — constantly sprinkled with turpentine; a neglect of these — precautions may result in a valuable skin being ruined. As an example of what may happen if trophies are neglected, I may mention that being busy for some days ~ I had paid no attention to my trophy-room—a photograph — of which is given—and found that during this time, a robin, — entering through a broken window, had built its nest in © my lion’s mane! 150 TROPHY ROOM, Looking East. TROPHY ROOM [To face p. 150 Looking West poe CHAPTER XX An apology and explanation—Big-game shooting and the camera—Some SUSEIE sa thas Gabdath--Zikiw u fins piehare wes exved-Stecnmens and Goa—Poisonous water snakes and jelly fish—Phenomenal rainfalls — Ancient rights and dignity—Convicted criminals at large—Method of dispensing justice—A lengthy trial—Distortion of evidence—Paid by the page—Judges fees—How regulated—More prisoners out of gaol than in it—A Gilbertian system—Result of the trial—An interesting but depressing relico—A city of palaces that was—The ee eee en the Patron The convent by the sea—An old story Sa Aiton a nun—A modern Paladin—An unpleasant surproe—The g t Festival of the Church—Mummified body of the souvenir hunter—The glass coffin—Transfer to MET & Vek cs sates Aleumns af spk “tne ch the oor ok India—Surat my next station—The “Cradle of India ” —Battered forts and neath Nawabs and their descendants—An ancient cy tr dee pt Seem trade—Origin and present position intrigues and aspirations—The pearl merchant—The sorting and polishing processes—A magnificent specimen. must apologize for the length of my lecture on the curing and preservation of trophies, which has proved much than I intended, and will, I fear, make dull reading : to the ordinary reader. Still, as this subject is one of such 1 ce to sportsmen, for whom this work is primarily intended, I felt that for the instructions to be of any value, it was necessary to give them in sufficient detail to be understood ; for, after all, even from the sportsman’s int of view, there would be no object in shooting big game ‘their heads and skins could not be preserved as mementos of his prowess. kinegy ol who tated inde portunity also of strongly all who intend indulging in big-game to invest in a good camera, and to uire a knowledge of photography in all its details. 151 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER During one furlough at home, I went through a regular course of developing, printing, etc., ete. The process, I admit, was not altogether a pleasant one, and many were the blunders I made and the plates that I destroyed, but I was amply rewarded in the end by the numerous good and interesting pictures I obtained, many of which are reproduced in this work. The modern method of having plates or films developed — by professionals is no doubt convenient and saves much ~ trouble, but I am convinced that many a good picture is lost in this way. The plates and films being developed wholesale, some are often rejected when a modification — of the solution to meet the peculiar defect in the taking — of the photo might often have redeemed them. I remember once nearly losing my best picture in this © way merely through being impatient. It was on a swelter- — ing day in Khandesh and the atmosphere in my little dark — tent was not conducive to serenity of temper, one photo, — appearing to be over-exposed, I threw away as useless. — It was a half plate, and fortunately did not break. Young — , of the I.C.S.,* who was watching me, picked it up, — saying he would like to try his hand on it, and he did, © H the result being the plate from which the picture opposite has since been reproduced. And now, having, I much fear, exceeded the limits of legitimate digression, I will go on with my story. I have © in a previous chapter made casual mention of a place named Mormugoa, but have since come across some notes I made regarding it, and from which I find it merits more ~ elaborate description. Mormugoa is Portuguese, and consists of a peninsula — which terminates the W. I. P. & S. M. Railway. It has — a wide stretch of sands, with good sea-bathing, except for — the poisonous water snakes, peculiar to these seas, and a venomous kind of jelly fish, also the possibility of sharks a~ little further out. The natives are believed to possess an antidote for the bites of the snakes and jelly fish, but this is probably mere tradition. Except in the cold weather months the heat is intense, ni oil Os tet easing aes necessitating, for the European, the lightest of light * Afterwards killed by a tiger as described on page 147, 152 (‘ysapuvy sy) eSti‘d aovj o 7) ‘INHOS WIonol v ‘s ee | co AY + Me ead gan Bag apie ae ae a Ral Ee: , . XU Iq ,, pue «¢ DOPOT > *€S1 ‘d aanf{ of) ‘HALVd ONINUOW AHL JUDICIAL PROCEDURE IN GOA clothing. The monsoon is very strongly felt here, the rain- fall being 150 inches, while at Castle Rock, halfway between Dharwar and Mormugoa, it is as much as 300 inches ! Mormugoa, Old Goa, with Panjmi, its modern head- ) as well as the whole district under Portuguese © jurisdiction, are all extraordinarily out of date, more especially in the matter of legislation, and judicial pro- cedure, the Goanese (pure Portuguese are very rare), though very courteous and pleasant people, being tenacious to an extreme of their ancient rights and dignities. The prisons are usually so full that many convicted criminals who should be undergoing imprisonment, are allowed to roam at large and live where they please, their only obligation being to report themselves at stated intervals to the officials. As an example of this quaint method of dispensing justice, I quotethe following incident:— _ An employee of the S. M. Railway, who lived by the seashore at Mormugoa, found a heap of putrid fish being piled up by some natives close to his bungalow. He asked them to remove it, but they refused, and continued adding to it daily, till at length the odour became so intolerable that he had it removed himself and thrown into the sea. _ The owner resenting his action had him summoned, and because he did not appear at once, caused him to be arrested, then, instead of allowing him to settle the matter out of court by paying compensation, he was forced to one: ® lengthy, expensive, and irksome trial lasting ys. . of my friends, a railway official, who was called on as witness and was also representing the Railway C y, was put to the greatest inconvenience, being up all the time more like a prisoner than a witness obliged to take all his meals in the tiny Court-house, gigi of which in the damp climate was perfectly e. Though when questioned his replies were mostly ‘Monosyllabic, he was amused to find his answers all being Tendered by the interpreter into long flowing sentences, without protest or remark from either the judge or advocate, ‘but subsequently discovered that the latter, who took : 153 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER down the evidence are paid by the page! Also that the judge’s fees fluctuate according to the number of persons he convicted ! This quaint method of paying judges quite explains the want of accommodation in the jails, and therefore why, as just stated, there are more prisoners out of prison than within it. However, be this as it may, in this par- ticular case, the accused got off with a fine, heavy legal expenses, and six months’ imprisonment. He was, how- ever, allowed as usual, but, as the Court put it, “ as a great act of grace,” to continue in his employment as railway guard, merely reporting himself once a month to the prison - authorities. The whole system in fact is quite Gilbertian in theory; but to the truculent Englishman it was all very annoying; in particular, the fact of being convicted — at all, vehemently declaring “that he could not be ex- pected to live with evil-smelling fish outside his front door, j and was not going to do so for all the niggers in Goa.” However, he was eventually persuaded to submit to authority, in fact had no option in the matter, for his own people could not well support him, since the Bombay Government particularly emphasized the need of keeping on good terms with their Portuguese neighbours. An interesting but depressing relic of past glories is Old Goa, formerly the chief town of the Portuguese settle- ment, on the Malabar or Western Coast of India. It is” situated some distance up the river Mundair, Panjmi or New Goa, at the mouth of this river, being now the capital and port. j Of Old Goa it is difficult to imagine, now that so little trace of its former grandeur is to be seen, that about 1600, when it was said to be at its zenith of its prosperity, it: was called the City of Palaces, with the fame of its splendour, trade and commerce ringing throughout the world. That it must have been so, however, is supported by — the fact that its wealth and magnificence proved a source of great temptation to the then kings of Bapur who often looted it. Since those days its government has changed — more than once, and until it was finally conquered, TP believe, by the Portuguese. 4 There are no palaces now visible, except those attached s 154 “THE STORY OF AN ABDUCTION 0 the cathedrals, of which there are three still standing, hough shorn of their former splendour, the shrines and estments which were once studded with exquisite gems f priceless value, being now decorated crudely with oloured glass imitation. Still, in the architecture of the athedral there is much to admire, and then also the sight f the “ Auto da Fe,”’ where heretics were burnt in the time f the Inquisition. _ St. Francis Zavier, as is well known, converted most f the inhabitants to Christianity, and has since been their atron Saint and is much revered by them. other miraculous powers attributed to him ; the gift of tongues. Thisis rather curious, as from some tters of his still extant it would appear that his ignorance 1 this particular respect, and I believe, a slight defect in were the source of great grief and disappointment ohim! It would be interesting therefore to discover the rigin of the apparently erroneous belief. A fair number of tourists visit Old Goa and Panjmi. hey come by steamer, and their time ashore being limited, can necessarily see but little of the beauties of the place. there, however, as I did with officials, we were shown aany interesting details, as, for example, the convent near he seashore, whence a famous traveller once attempted Erethove a discontented nun. Tt is an old story, but, like many of its kind, will possibly ear repeating. It appears that this modern Paladin, jose name for obvious reasons it is inadvisable to divulge, on a yachting trip, and finding Goa an interesting jot, had anchored in the river, where his yacht had been ig for some months. In addition to his fame as a great traveller, he had also , world-wide reputation as a linguist, and as it happened iat in the convent library there were some ancient and valuable books of Arabic and Sanscrit origin, the gave him free access to this library. - Hence it came about, though how nobody knew, that Se course of time he became acquainted with one of nuns, whom he subsequently described as “ cherry- ipped.” and who apparently tired of a conventual life was to abandon it. 155 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER In the course of these stolen interviews this subject was probably discussed, for it ended in the Englishman assisting her to escape. By some method of signalling he discovered which was the window of her particular cell, and on the night fixed for the venture, he climbed up and proceeded to carry her off. To save her good name, it was arranged that a cloth should be thrown over her, and that she was to pretend to resist him so as to give the appearance of being carried off against her will, but as he lifted her down he was dis- agreeably surprised to find her heavier than he had imagined and more bulky than he had any reason to expect, also that in the matter of resistance her struggle seemed to be somewhat unnecessarily violent. : However, thinking she was merely over-acting her part, he ignored these unpleasantly realistic efforts till they ended in her biting him. Taken completely by surprise, as well he might be, he dropped her at once, when to his horror he discovered that it was the portly Lady Abbess he had been so painfully abducting instead of his sylph- like, cherry-lipped nun ! Leaving the stout dame where she had fallen, he mada good his escape, and though the plot was eventually discovered, no further steps were taken by the Portuguese authorities, nor was it even known what became of the unfortunate nun, but common report had it that she had been walled up alive. ] To give anything like a complete description of Old Goa would fill too many pages of a work purporting to be a book on sport, and adventure only. I will, therefore, conclude my notes on the subject with a brief account ol a curious and interesting ceremony performed annually | in honour of the Patron Saint. This great holiday of the year and festival of the Chure. J in Goa, more important even than Easter, is the feast ol Saint Zavier, when the Saint’s mummified body is exposed in the cathedral. Goanese from all parts of India come to attend this solemn ceremony and join in the subsequent merry-making. The body is now confined in a = coffin, and the congregation, as they file past it, stop t bow and cross themselves. It used formerly to be exposed 156 SEDITION IN POONAH ‘out of its coffin, but an enthusiastic souvenir-hunting white man having sacrilegiously purloined one of its big toes, the authorities no longer permit the body to be shown outside its case. I am writing of Goa and Mormugoa as I saw them some ten or more years ago, and they are probably unchanged to this day, though I fear my de- seription falls far short of what it should be. But these places are so quaint, and full of interest from so many of view, that it would require the skill of an expert book writer to describe them. * * * * * ca _ After my term of service at Dharwar, I was posted to the district of Poonah, one of the nicest in the Presidency, but from a police point of view, a most troublesome and responsible charge, for Poonah at that time was a hot-bed f sedition, the result, in a great measure, of the lenient reatment accorded to the promoters and instigators of > movement, years before, in. Nasik, Benares and _ But I have already referred to this subject in a previous hapter, and the least said now about those troublous ays the better, for in the realization of her great oppor- unity for showing her true sentiments to the Empire, ndia has furnished evidence so complete and incontestable her loyalty and devotion, that it is now difficult to ize that unrest and agitation ever had any existence in ‘that country. War, as our enemies have discovered to heir cost, so far from alienating India from the Empire, is they had hoped, has welded them so closely together it, for the first time in her history, the soldiers of the Empire, white and black alike, are fighting side by side gain st their common European foes. In fact, what war las effected in a moment, so to speak, a century of peace tht have failed to bring about. As Police Officer of Poonah during a period when unrest d sedition were so ripe in this city and district, my time vas so fully occupied with my duties, that I had no leisure or sport, not that there was much to be had, a few black- uck and small game being all that was obtainable in this _ From Poonah I was transferred to Surat, an interesting 157 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER station, which was described by Lord Curzon as “ the cradle of the Indian Empire.” The interest of the place lies in the battered forts, walls and gates of the city, re mains of old Portuguese buildings, Dutch factories, and thx curious medley of tombs in the old cemetery. Surat originally owned and ruled by Nawabs, was finally cedec to the English Government in return for a heavy pecuniary consideration, or in other words, purchased by “ Johr Company,” probably at a bargain ! The family originally owning it had been for year: divided into minor factions, each claiming seniority One side of the house was represented, in my time, by an interesting, intelligent old lady of over eighty, known as the Begum. In paying ceremonial visits to either side of the house it was necessary to take great precautions in order tc avoid giving offence to the other, and as the palace wa: common to both families, with the court-yards only separate, the paying of these visits was a somewhat delicate operation. This division into two or more factions, is not at all unusual amongst families comprising the Indian nobility. Neither is it rare to find great jealousy existing between them. In the present instance the two families were extremely jealous of each other, and this feeling was ne doubt greatly fostered by the underlings and hangers-on of each, for the Nawab, the head of the other faction, unlike the Begum, was a sensible, broad-minded individual who was sending his sons to England for a *Varsity 7 cation ! The headquarters of the pearl trade is in Surat, the valuable rights of the fisheries in the Persian Gulf, once owned by a few merchants of native descent, being now vested in a syndicate run with European capital. The fisheries commence at the Island of Babreya, which lies off the Arab shore near the centre of the Persian Gulf, continue for a distance of nearly a hundred miles. i The most productive shoals are between the Island Atabool and the coast of Katar. Some of the pearl found are of great size and corresponding value. It | estimated that three-quarters of the world’s supply o 158 A PEARL MERCHANT OF SURAT pearls come from here. Hence the rights in these fisheries Bo perticnlanly interesting at. th oe ee i y interesting at the present time, to _ learn that the Germans have had their eye on these rights for many years. Their activities in this direction, in - combination with their struggles for the railway facilities _ on the shores of the Persian Gulf, are graphically described _ in the “ Times History of the Present War.” We paid a visit to the great pearl merchant in Surat, _ who is allowed a special guard and police protection from _ the Government, and occupies a fine mansion, of a semi- — and oriental style of architecture, in the suburbs I i at some distance from the town of Surat. __ As he conducted us upstairs, we passed on the different landings several groups of men engaged in piercing holes _ in the pearls ; they were each squatted in front of a machine and it was quite interesting to watch the skill and steadi- ness with which they conducted their operations. __ In the first room we visited were some old men seated the floor, each having what appeared to be a heap of in front of him which he was employed in sorting. These proved to be pearls in the rough which were being sorted out according to their condition as damaged or inferior in quality. As they seemed to be testing their quality almost entirely by touch, I asked the merchant w they could tell a good pear! from a bad one like that. In the same way as the sahib finds out a thief,” he ied, laughing, apparently much amused, either at my estion or at his own conceit. After this we went on to the polishing rooms, where in were men squatted with heaps of pearls before them, but this time they had on chamois leather gloves with which ey were polishing the pearls. This process certainly proved their appearance, and the more they were bbed the better they looked. Still, perhaps because being in such large quantities, they did not give the mpression of possessing any value. _ However, when we finally came to the office, a kind of wong room where the finished specimens and threaded s are kept, we could not fail to realize the real beauty the gems. We handled one magnificent pear-shaped 159 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER specimen valued, we were told, at £4,000. Its size, in comparison to its value, seemed so insignificant that, feeling it might so easily be lost or stolen, I was much relieved to see it safely locked up again, and must have shown this in my face, for the merchant and his employee evidently noticed it, and, probably accustomed to handling pearls of even greater value daily, were seemingly much amused at my solicitude. 160 ae a ae ee ees, een CHAPTER XXI Decide on shooting trip to Somaliland Poplar bli about its inbabi- pi tants—Erroneous ideas—Diminishing game—Collecting information— Preparations for the Expedition—Initial difficulties finally overcome —Calling for volunteers—Gungdya and Sabha come forward—A study in contrasts—Stores and equipment—My battery—Embark for _ Aden—The voyage—Its effect on the two Bhils—Explaining the com- -—s- pass-—Arrive at Aden—Take > passage to Berbera—Black beetles and : noisy natives—Collecting a “ Kafila”—Purchase baggage camels— a an escort—Supplies and provisions—A desolate land— G the escort—Abdi, the headman—His multifarious duties— c' The construction of zarebas—A camp in Somaliland described— _ Engage two shikaris—Khaliffa and Nur—Projects and plans—Un- 4 oe ag iome: ilbllee Mareen a8 eager 24 pe oi Trou with camel men—Marching across a waterless plain— Somalis armed to the teeth—Wild appearance of these men— Decorated _ murderers—Weapons used in warfare—Somali women—Their dress and appearance—Not held in much account—Often abandoned on the march. the year 1893 I decided on making a private hunting expedition to Somaliland, a country which has always borne ie reputation of being the home of a bigoted, ferocious, savage race whose hand is against every man. _ Somaliland was, at the time I purposed visiting it, more "or less a terra incognita to sportsmen, but it has since _ been opened out, with the sot that the terrifying accounts of the dangers and difficulties of entering the country have _ proved to have been somewhat exaggerated. , = As with all fresh hunting grounds, the advent of the ‘Sportsman has had the usual effect, and the number of wild animals formerly to be found there, has considerably minished, though in the unexplored portions of the Haud ind Ogadin game is still plentiful, especially lions. | Having collected all the information I could obtain re- ‘ding the country and completed preparations for my bedition, I applied to the hay ite Government through 161 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the I.-G. Police for sanction to enter Somaliland through Aden, which is under the jurisdiction of the Government of Bombay. I also applied to the Inspector-General of Police for sanction to take forty Sniders from the Police Headquarters Reserve with which to arm my escort, for owing to the reputed lawlessness of the country I purposed visiting, an armed escort was essentially necessary. After some weeks’ delay I received a curt demi-official reply from the I.-G. Police regretting that he was unable to accede to my wishes, but that he had forwarded my appli- cation to the Government for disposal. This was not encouraging—especially as I had obtained the requisite leave of absence and had already made all my preparations for the expedition, assuming that permission would be granted and I should be able to start at once. However, Lord H , the then Governor of Bombay, a sportsman himself, and always anxious to encourage this spirit among his officers, came to my rescue, and not only sanctioned my expedition—subject to the approval of the Aden authorities—but issued a special resolution giving — me the loan of forty Sniders and ammunition from the Aden — arsenal. 7 As I was making the expedition alone—for I had no — white companion—I was particularly anxious to take some ~ of my own men with me. At the same time I felt it was expecting too much, and hardly reasonable to ask a Bhil to leave his home and family and to undertake a sea voyage : to a country he had never seen or even heard of. However, on my calling for volunteers Gungdya and Sabha, two of my best shikaris—of whom mention has_ already been made in previous chapters—both came forward - at once and expressed their willingness to accompany me. These men, as I have said elsewhere, were very different — both in appearance and character, one being tall, thin, and dignified, and the other short, squat, and of a wild and reckless disposition, but a pluckier couple it would have been difficult to find, and though so different in character yet the best of friends and comrades. a I laid in a quantity of stores—far too much as I dis- covered later—consisting of tea, coffee, tinned butter, Soups, 162 s EN ROUTE FOR SOMALILAND: BHILS AT SEA fish, ete., all packed in strong teak-wood boxes. Knowing the importance of carrying a supply of water, I had special water-casks constructed each to contain twelve gallons— two twelve-gallon casks being, as I knew, the full load of a camel. In the way of tents and camp equipment, I took a small double fly Cabul tent weighing 80 lbs., and an iron chair ; a bed I had no need of as I usually slept on the or on store boxes covered with camel mats, which also served the purpose of a table. __ My sporting battery, the most important part of the outfit, consisted of — 1 Double 8-bore Paradox gun by Holland. 1 Double 12-bore Paradox gun by Holland. _ 1 Double 10-bore rifle by Dixon. _ 1 Double -500 Express rifle by Rigby. 1 Double *450 Express rifle by Cogswell and Harrison. 1 Lee Metford °303. The last I found quite useless against the larger antelope —such as the oryx, hartebeest, ete.—for it has little knock- ing down power unless the bullet happens to, strike a vital ae: ae, eer A brace of revolvers, a hand camera and compass com- eted my outfit. _ We took our s for Aden on 15th March in the P. ad O. s.s. M ia. The two Bhils, who had never seen we sea before, were greatly struck with, and also much ‘Impressed by, some battleships which happened to be lying a the harbour at the time. _ We had a rough passage—very unusual at this time of e year—and finally reached Aden on the fifth day of the oyage. I was greatly amused at the numerous questions ny men asked me; as to the navigation and mechanism ogden shi nce they had recovered their equilibrium, for } th been horribly sea-sick. ‘tied to explain to them the uses of the compass, t, etc., though my knowledge of such matters was not nh greater than their own. However, they accepted all but I fancy, from the hints they threw out, they quite clieved that the wake of the steamer was the pathway to cir destination. On arrival at Aden I was met by my friend P——, of 168 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER the regiment I had been attached to before joining the police, and who was now on the staff. I stayed with him three days, which I took advantage of to replenish my stores. We then took passage in a wretched little steamer to Berbera, which we reached on the third day, heartily glad to escape from that awful ship, with its vile food, black beetles, and noisy natives. The town of Berbera—if I may so term it—was composed of a few Arab rubble buildings, a fort and a large number of permanent Somali huts made of matting and poles. Some three-quarters of a mile to the west is the new, official town—originally built by the Egyptians—the houses being of rubble and masonry, one storied, with flat roofs, not unlike those found in Sind. There is a good pier as well as a good lighthouse, also built by the Egyptians before we took over the north Somali coast from them, and an excellent harbour, affording adequate protection for large steamers. At a distance of about twenty-four miles east and west of Berbera the Maritime Range comes down to within a mile or two of the sea. I remained in Berbera a week, getting together a caravan or “ Kafila,’? with the assistance of the Political Agent, a very kind individual, whose temper I fear I much tried, but who very kindly put me up. I was also much assisted by an Arab merchant of the place by name Mahomed Hindi, a very decent fellow. | I purchased thirty baggage camels and engaged the same number of natives—drawn from the different tribe as an escort, whom I armed with the Snider rifles so gener- ously lent me by the Bombay Government. 4 I also purchased supplies of provisions—such as rice, dates, Ghee,* also cooking utensils, saddle equipment for the camels, cloth and beads as presents to the chiefs of the countries we were to pass through, axes for making zarebas, rope, etce., ete. 3 Besides these essentials, there were a number of other things to be thought of, for in the interior of Somaliland there were no permanent villages, the Karias being usually * Clarified butter. 164 es eee alo “A HEADMAN ”—AND HIS DUTIES small, temporary kraals, and nothing is obtainable in the way of food excepting exceptionally rancid milk. Hence, rations for the men, personal luggage and stores, must all be carried on camels, and this constitutes a large caravan. The newly-recruited escort, too, had to be put through a course of musketry and rough drill, such as advancing and retiring in skirmishing order, etc., etc. However, the Somali are brought up from childhood midst an atmosphere of raids and skirmishes. They soon grasped some idea of military movements. _ Finally, the purchase of two horses for elephant and lion hunting completed my preparations. I was very fortunate in obtaining the services of one—Abdi—as headman or leader of the caravan, a most important and responsible position, for on his efficiency, or otherwise, depended in a great measure the success or failure of the expedition. _ He must know Arabic or Hindustani, and his business is to superintend the loading of the eamels, giving out the ‘ rations, interviewing chiefs and natives, who visit the camp, acting interpreter, etc., etc. He is also required to take military command of the caravan on the absence of his master, and in this capacity must arrange for the relief of the sentries at night and select the places where the Z are to be put up, ete. _ The construction of zarebas, by the way, is by no means an easy matter, especially after a long march, for trees have to be felled and brushwood collected and placed round the €amp in a circular formation, low enough to fire over, yet Sufficiently deep to prevent a sudden rush being made on the encampment. _ Towards evening the camels and horses are all collected and driven into this enclosure, the hunter’s tent being erected in the centre, midst a seeming chaos of multi- farious packages—bubbling of camels, neighing of horses, and the cheery groups of Somalis enjoying their frugal evening meal of rice and dates. Add to this the white-clad figure of the sentry, as he stands, rifle in hand, crooning to himself some wild and invariably mournful song; and We have as animated and picturesque a scene as it would be possible to imagine. pe Then, as daylight wanes, comes the stillness of the ue 165 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER jungle, to be broken only by the melancholy ery of the jackal, the weird how! of the hyena, or, maybe, the grand roar of a lion on the prowl, borne along the still night air— a situation like this is difficult to describe, but to the true sportsman the fascination of it will doubtless be apparent. In addition to my camel men, amongst whom were some good shikaris, I engaged two elephant hunters—Khaliffa and Nur—the former of whom was destined to give con- siderable trouble later on. These, together with a cook and butler, completed my staff. As I was anxious to penetrate as far as possible into the interior in search of elephants, I decided, in consultation with my headman, to visit the Gadabursi and Esai country, where elephants were reported to be very numerous. I also intended, if time permitted, to make a trip to Abyssinia whence reports of the abundance and variety of game had excited my imagination. On mentioning my project to Captain A——, he did his best to dissuade me from entering that part of the country as the unfriendliness of the natives was causing much anxiety at the time, and suggested instead a a little tour round Berbera. But as my outlay on the expedition was already con- siderable, I determined, notwithstanding A: *s friendly advice, to stick to my original plan, explaining to th exasperated official that if I should happen to be attacked by the natives I could but run away. | Nevertheless, I quite realized that a certain amount oj risk must be incurred from the possible hostility of the Ese and other savage tribes, but hoped that a long experience: of natives, the strong and reliable following under Abdi who had proved his eminent fitness as a caravan leadei in similar expeditions, would reduce the dangers to minimum. The last few hours at Berbera were, I remember, spen in losing and finding my camel men, and I am afraid gave Captain A—— a very worrying time. Howev everything being fixed up at last, we started off one morni at daybreak, for the first long march of sixteen miles acr the waterless Maritime plain. f On our way we occasionally met with small parties : 166 4 (‘AaTeA BVaviezy) ‘AMINOOD INVHdH'IA NI dKVD AW A Mat goh ” * “ae ¥ * ‘901 ‘¢ a2n/ oz] i THE SOMALI OF THE INTERIOR _ Somalis, armed to the teeth with spear and shield, etc., _ making their way to the coast, their strings of camels laden _ with skins of camels, goats, etc., for which they find a ready _ market in Berbera. : The Somali of the interior is a wild enough looking _ creature, with a piece of cotton sheeting wrapped about the body, his hair—short and curly—bleached a light _ red, or plastered with white clay. Many of the men wear _ a leather charm containing a verse from the Koran round _ their necks—for the Somalis are all Mussulmans and of the _ Shafai sect. Among certain tribes, any man who has killed another ly in battle ?—wears an ostrich feather in his hair. The spears they use are most deadly-looking weapons, horribly barbed. A heavy spear with laurel-leaf shaped blade is used for close quarters, for the Somalis usually fight on foot, and when charging their foe, use this spear _ to stab with as they close. The women wear a dark blue, nondescript sort of garment, displaying a good deal of the bosom. The married woman ties up her hair in a piece _ of blue cloth, while the young girls, ““ Gubats ” or maidens, _ wear theirs in oily looking plaits. : Women generally, and more especially when old and _ decrepit, are of very little account among the Somali. If unable to keep up with the Kafila on the march, they are often abandoned and left lying exhausted on the side of the road, either to follow as best they can or to be devoured by _ ahungry lion, should one happen to pass that way. hes Sain i ii Dare ala a ae ee Pe peel 167 CHAPTER XXII An uninviting country—Gazelles occasionally met with—Early morning marches—The dik-dik antelope—Large herds seen—The klipspringer —Terrific heat—The Nasiya or Shelter tree—Reach the first water— Lion-hand mountain—The lesser koodoo—Their appearance and habits —Extraordinary leaping powers—Shoot a fine buck—Ascending the Golis Range—Haunt of the greater koodoo—News of an old bull—A fruitless search—Returning to camp—A pleasant surprise—Sudden appearance of the bull—A long shot—Bagged—A splendid trophy— The greater koodoo described—We march en route to Hargesa—Wild wooded country—Oryx and hartebeest encountered—Shooting for the pot—Many mouths to feed—The oryx, appearance and habits—A _ herd of four hundred seen—Wounded oryx dangerous—Bushmen’s method of killing these animals—Poisoned arrows and dogs—Uses made of the skins—The hartebeest—Several species—Fine texture of coats—Peculiarity of the skull—Vast herds often met with—The inquisitiveness of these animals—Indifference to thirst—-The som- mering gazelle—Very common in Somaliland—A herd of one thousand —Peculiar characteristic—Variety in shape of horns—Subject to parasitical maggots—Flesh uneatable. THE country over which we travelled was not inviting, consisting as it did of bare hills and sandy plains covered with stunted mimosa bushes, affording shelter to an occasional gazelle, a number of which I shot on the way. This peculiar gazelle is readily distinguished by the well-developed ridge of loose skin over the nose. The general colour is a brownish fawn, with a dark lateral band. The coat is also longer and the horns thicker and more curved than those of the lowland gazelle. The height at the shoulder is twenty-four inches. The females have no horns. ‘ They go about in small herds of three to five, and are — found in scrub, jungle and rocky ground. In their habits — they are very much like the Indian gazelle or chinkara, and offer excellent practice for the rifle. 168 ee ee at eS ee, ee ae AFRICAN ANTELOPE In the cool of the early mornings, when on the march, I usually walked through the jungle—ahead of the string of camels, with my gun—often disturbing the little sand antelope, which would spring away through the bushes at my approach. The sakaro, or dik-dik, as they are called by the Somalis, is, I believe, the smallest of the African antelope tribes, and stands about the size of a hare. The general colour is a rufus-fawn with a tuft of hair on the crown of _ the head. The eyes are large and the horns corrugated at _ the base, strongly pointed and from one to three inches in length. The females are even smaller and carry no horns. : These pretty little antelopes are very common in _ Somaliland, and I have seen as many as a hundred in the _ course of a long march. They frequent scrub and aloe _ jungle, and when disturbed give a shrill whistle of alarm. _ Sakaro antelopes can be easily knocked over with No. 5 _ shot, and make pretty shooting with a rook rifle. _ The klipspringer would also be seen along the rocky _ paths and are very common in the Golis Range. Its height _ at the shoulder is about twenty inches, and it is in colour _ an olive-grey. The hair on coat is long and brittle, not _ unlike that of the musk deer. The hoofs are cylindrical _ and cup-shaped underneath; the horns rise vertically _ from the head, with a slightly forward curvature and are tinged from the basal thud; average length being about _ twoanda halfinches. The females have nohorns. These _ antelope go about in twos and threes. They are excellent _ eating. As we marched on the heat became terrific, and _ we were glad when, at last, we reached a small tree called i “ Nasiya,” the word meaning “ resting-place,” whence, after taking a short rest we pushed on again reaching the next water, Deregodab, twenty-three miles from Berbera ; and continuing our journey went on to Mandera, a valley three miles wide under the Gadabarsi* mountain, a bluff _ of the great Golis Range. __ At Mandera, and all along the foot of the Golis Range, _ is dense forest of the large Guda thorn tree, with thick _ undergrowth of aloes and thorny bushes, a favourite resort _ Of the lesser koodoo. * Literally, “ Lion-hand mountain.” 169 TIGER SLAYER BY ORDER This animal is, to my mind, the most beautiful in Somaliland. It stands about three feet five inches at the shoulder, and is of a slate-blue colour, turning to almost black in the older animals. From the back descend snow- white stripes upon either flank and bindquarters. Inside the thighs and arms the hair is of a reddish tinge. The legs are slender and beautifully shaped, hoofs long, narrow and pointed. The tail is broad, white and bushy. The head is small with a bar of white below each of the eyes, which are large and beautiful, and a few white spots on either cheek. The ears are large, round and wonderfully sensitive. The neck is slightly maned and well-developed, with a splash of white on the throat; in fact, taken altogether, the colouring of this antelope is remarkably effective. The horns are like those of the greater koodoo—spiral, but do not attain the enormous length of the latter, the average measurement of a lesser koodoo horn being about twenty- eight inches round the curve, though I have shot one with twenty-nine and a half round the curve, but this was the longest I obtained. The does are of a lighter colour and devoid of horns. The lesser koodoo are found in dense bush and aloe clumps. They go about in herds of about five and six. Their power of leaping is extraordinary, and it is a very pretty sight to see them take the bushes at great bounds. I had great luck with these antelope at Mandera, where 1 shot some very fine buck. But to resume. We now ascended the Golis Range, walking half-way up the mountain, where there was a — spring of clear water, to hunt for greater koodoo. Hearing — there was a very old koodoo bull on this hill, I determined — to devote the whole day in search of him. I had, on the ~ previous day, shot a couple of good buck out of a herd ; but as this particular animal was reported to carry an exceptionally fine head, I was very keen on getting him. Accompanied by two of my trackers—Nur and Khaliffa, with one Easa Musa as guide—we searched along the lower slopes and higher ridges of the mountain, from early morning until late in the afternoon, but saw no sign of him. I had numerous opportunities during the day of shooting © other animals—one fine old wart-hog in particular—but — . hig Se Ve i Se i a el 7 a a Z LESSER KOODOO BULL. (Africa.) WALLER’S GAZELLI ( Africa.) a a2" te 4 ( wal, tas } ; ’ t jal eee ener hs te aa I ie i. a ls olf) a See eg : posts ad . A wom Pee >, .. * * i ee; a