LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

GIFT OF

_\ AA<A^^-d":

Class

CONTRIBUTIONS FROM THE E. M. MUSEUM OF GEOLOGY AND
ARCHEOLOGY OF PRINCETON COLLEGE.

No. 2.

TOPOGRAPHIC, HYPSOMETRIC,

AND

METEOROLOGIC REPORT,

BY

WILLIAM LIBBEY, JR.,

AND

w. w. MCDONALD,

Princeton Scientific Expedition,

1877.

SEPTEMBER.

NEW YrORK, 1879.

-V-

CONTRIBUTIONS FROM THE fE. M. MUSEUM OF GEOLOGY AND
ARCHEOLOGY OF PRINCETON COLLEGE.

No. 2.

TOPOGRAPHIC, HYPSOMETRIC,

AND

METEOROLOGIC REPORT,

BY

WILLIAM LIBBEY, JR.,

AND

w. w. MCDONALD,

OF THE

Princeton Scientific Expedition

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

SEPTEMBKR.

NEW YORK, 1879.

// is with great hesitation and many misgivings that we submit this Report
to be printed, being conscious of the fact that errors may have crept into it un-
known to us. But, at the oft-repeated request of Dr. Guyot, and the hope that
the observations of scientific interest carried on during the Summer of 1877 may
be of some value, we have sent it out, knowing that it embodies the results of
careful work. That it was done by amateurs who entered into the work from
love of it, and who had not the experience of professional men, must be
the excuse for any deficiencies which may be fozmd in it. It is with much
pleasure, however, that we take this opportunity of thanking Dr. Guyot and
Professors Brackett and MacMillan for their kind encouragement and aid, both
in the preparation they gave us for work in the field and in the unfolding of the
results, after our return home. A number of artotypes enliven the pages of the
Report, for the plates of which we are indebted to the courtesy of the photog-
raphers of the expedition, Mr. Devereux and Mr. Butler.

WILLIAM LIB BEY, JR.

w. w. MCDONALD.

199567

PRINCETON SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION.

1877.

V Photography.

Paleontology.

PROF. C. F. BRACKETT, M.D.

PROF. JOSEPH KARGE, PH.D.
W. B. DEVEREUX, '73,
H. R. BUTLER, '76,
R. H. LYNDE, '77,
H. F. OSBORN, '77,
J. POTTER, '77,
W. B. SCOTT, '77,
F. SPEIR, JR., '77,
A. J. McCOSH, '77,

C. G. GREENE, '77,
J. S. ELY, '77,

F. E. PARKER, '77,

W. DULLES, '78,

W. F. DUNNING, '78,

D. F. McPHERSON, '77,
W. D. VAN DYKE, '78,

J. A. STEWART, JR., '79, j
W. LIBBEY, JR., '77,

w. w. MCDONALD, '7s,

Botany.

Y Mineralogy.

f Natural History.

Topography, Meteorology,
Hypsometry.

OP THE

HEADWAIMS

or

S FORKS

INTHE

UINTAH MOUhfTAlNS
UTAH.

. Jtl s/Htnw /,/t A/.fnJc, /.///.v.

SCALI OF FEET.

To THE HONORABLE THE PRESIDENT AND BOARD OF TRUSTEES

OF THE COLLEGE OF NEW JERSEY.

GENTLEMEN : I have the honor to submit herewith the report of the two
topographers in charge of the topography and meteorology of the college scien-
tific expedition of 1877.

The map of a portion of the Uintah Mountains, which is exclusively their
work, has been reproduced by the artotype process ; and, together with the
numerous altitudes carefully determined, is believed to be a valuable contribu-
tion to the knowledge of the character of that chain of mountains, as yet so
little known. The artotype plates are copies of but a few samples selected
from the large collection of excellent photographs, taken by the photographers
of the expedition. The appendix, containing a diary of the party, is given to
show how faithfully the time allotted has been employed in furthering the
object of the expedition. It may serve as a specimen for all the divisions,
which would show a similar record.

It is a great pleasure for me to be able to state that a further examination of
the palaeontological results of both the expeditions of 1877 and 1878 have much
surpassed my expectations. A second palaeontological report is almost ready
for publication. The materials for a third, containing a large number of new
species of fossil plants, are nearly prepared.

It is a source of great gratification that these expeditions, while accomplish-
ing their first object, the encouragement of scientific studies in our college, have
been at the same time so fruitful in results for the advancement of science.
This may justify the hope entertained that this doubly useful complement of
our regular course of studies will remain a permanent feature of our College.
Very respectfully submitted,

A. GUYOT,

Director of E. M. Museum.
PRINCETON, N. J., September, 1879.

PRINCETON, N. J., June i, 1879.

SIR : We transmit herewith the reports upon Topography, Meteorology,
and Hypsometry, as prepared by Messrs. William Libbey, Jr., and W. W.
McDonald, of the Scientific Expedition which went out in the summer of 1877
under our charge.

Together with the reports are three maps : the first containing the results
of a topographical reconnaissance in the valley of Smith's Fork, in the Uintah
Mountains of Utah ; the second containing the triangulation of the same ; the
third showing the relation between Fort Bridger and the valley of Smith's
Fork.

The topographical report is divided into two parts, one devoted to the work
in Colorado, the other to that in Utah.

The meteorological report is confined wholly to Utah, and contains a mete-
orological record for part of the time spent there.

The hypsometric report is also divided into a report of the work in Colo-
rado, then of that in Utah, and these are followed by a discussion of the baro-
metric work. Yours, etc.,

C. F. BRACKETT.

JOSEPH KARGE.
DR. A. GUYOT,

Director of the E. M. Museum.

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

PRINCETON, N. J., Jan. i, 1879.

SIRS : We present herewith our joint report on Topography, Meteorology,
and Hypsometry, embodying the results of our work in those departments
during the summei of 1877. Accompanying the report is a map, prepared by
us, giving an idea of the topographical features of the upper portion of the
Smith's F.ork Valley in the Uintah Mountains. This valley was chosen as a
characteristic type of the valleys of this transverse mountain chain and studied
as such with some care.

Leaving Princeton June 2ist in the evening, we reached Denver on the even-
ing of the 25th. Here we spent a few days in purchasing such things as we
needed to complete the equipment brought from the East. The party also bought
horses, mule teams, and wagons here for their proposed trip in Colorado. From
this time to July 2ist we spent in Colorado ; measuring Pike's Peak, Mts. Lin-
coln, Bross, Quandary, Silverheels, Princeton, Evans and Gray ; also, determin-
ing several bases. We then started with General Karge and the Palaeontologists
for Fort Bridger. Our trip was made with safety and pleasure, notwithstanding a
delay at Cheyenne. We fitted out at the Fort for the mountains, where we
worked at the topography of the valley mentioned above until August 24th, and
then commenced our return to Fort Bridger, aiming, on our return, to get a
general idea of the region lying between the Fort and the mountains. The result
of this reconnaissance is embodied in another map, also accompanying this re-
port, which may serve as a hint to further and more accurate surveys of the same
region. The meteorological as well as the topographical report is confined
mostly to this part of Utah. The only work of any scientific value done in Colo-
rado was hypsometric, on account of our hurried and long marches through
that State. Being constrained to keep track of our party, we depended on
gaining some miles in advance for an opportunity of doing our work. The
work in Utah was undertaken in a more systematic way. A base line was
accurately measured, and its height carefully ascertained ; from either end of
this our triangles stretched up the sides of the valley of Smith's Fork, and these
were bound together by a network, in the measurements of which we have some
confidence, not only on account of the accuracy of our little transit, but from
the knowledge that the work was done with great care. We worked up one
side of the valley first, and then down the other, our camp being about the
centre of the large amphitheatre. The last triangle closed within half a minute
of arc, which we considered excellent, from the fact of the roughness of the
ground traversed and the many disadvantages under which we labored. The
peculiarities of our work will be brought out fully in the body of the report.
Our experiences with electricity, and the elements in general, may not have
been exceptional, but they were certainly novel to us, and their faithful recital
may prove a warning to future explorers in the same region. Upwards of
thirty barometric measurements were made of the mountains on either side of
the valley. Our series of barometric heights commenced at Carter Station on
the Union Pacific Railroad, and extended from there to Fort Bridger ; thence in

8

succession to the Herd House or cattle yards of Judge Carter ; to the St. Louis
Mills; to Gilbert's Meadows; and to our other two camps, the one near the
head-waters of the west branch of Smith's Fork, and the other at the centre of
the valley of the east branch, or main Smith's Fork. Our barometers were care-
fully compared before and after each trip, or day's work, and the station barom-
eter was always carried as near to the base of the mountain as was possible.
A north and south line was preserved as much as possible in the relative situa-
tion of the instruments. In ascending the side of a mountain we were often
enabled by means of our levels to know when we were on a line with the top
of some previously measured mountain on the other side of the valley, and by
measuring this point also we were often able to obtain a second measurement,
which was in general very satisfactory in its comparison with the former one.
Towards the latter part of our stay the rainy season of the fall came on, and
heavy rains, with storms of snow and hail on the mountains, generally lasting
from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M., drove us from them. Bidding them a reluctant farewell,,
we returned to the Fort, making measurements by barometer, sketching pro-
files, and making sections, with which, and with the aid of some other maps at
the Fort, we finished the map of the country between the Fort and the moun-
tains. The hypsometric and topographic work are combined in the main map
accompanying the report, which has been prepared with great care. By com-
paring our map with that of the government survey of the fortieth parallel, it
will be readily seen that it differs in some particulars from the map of the same
valley given by that survey. It cannot be expected from a general survey, such
as was intended in that work, that it should contain all the details of a special
survey such as ours. To a person merely passing through the eastern part of
the valley it presents many of the aspects given on the above-mentioned map ^
but the appearances in that valley are very deceptive, and a closer examination
reveals the features given in our map. After the regular reports we have given
an itinerary of the whole trip, believing it will be interesting to those who wish
to follow us in our daily work in the West, as it combines, in a condensed
shape, the diaries of both of us. Our thanks are due to Colonel Flint, com-
mandant of the Fort ; to Lieutenant-Adjutant True, Lieutenant Scott, commis-
sary ; Judge W. A. Carter, Dr. J. Van A. Carter, and Mr. R. H. Hamilton, for
many courtesies and great aid in the furtherance of our work. We shall long
remember with pleasure our leisure hours passed among the pleasant people of
that little island in the desert, where we met so many kind friends. And the
warm reception, with the kind-hearted farewells, will always raise happy memo-
ries in that division of our scientific expedition. Leaving a few days later (Sep-
tember 6th) we joined the rest of the party at Cheyenne : then with only a stop
at Chicago over Sunday, we set our faces eastward, with little to regret and
much to be happy over.

WILLIAM LIBBEY, JR.

W, W. MCDONALIX
C. F. BRACKETT, M.D.
JOSEPH KARGE; Ph.D.

INSTRUMENTS.

The instruments of the expedition were the property of a member of the
party, and were as follows :

TRANSIT. — The transit was made by Messrs. Heller & Brightley, of Phila-
delphia, and is a fac- simile in miniature of their " complete engineer's transit."
It is one of the instruments exhibited by this firm at the Centennial Exhibition
in Philadelphia, where it took a prize. It has long compound centres, the
vernier plate centre being 2^ inches long. The horizontal limb is read, by two
double opposite verniers, to minutes of arc. These verniers are placed outside
of the compass-box, and their openings are protected by glass windows. The
vertical arc also reads to minutes. There is a 2^-inch magnetic needle, and its
ring is divided into half degrees. The telescope is 6f inches long, with object-
glass H inch in aperture ; it magnifies 15 diameters, and shows objects erect,
not inverted. A sensitive level 3 inches long is attached to the telescope for
assistance in accurate levelling work. The telescope has a slow motion for
focussing the cross wires, and is provided with adjustable stadia wires for
measuring purposes, thus dispensing with chaining and taping to a consider-
able extent. The plates and vertical circle are provided with clamp and tan-
gent screw movements, and the clamps on the axis of the telescope are
arranged with sighting slits and indexes, so as to answer also for right angle
sights. All the working parts of the needle-lifter, clamp and tangent screw
movements are concealed between the plates, making the instrument more
compact and less liable to injury. The height of the instrument from the tripod
legs is 7| inches. The extreme diameter of the plates is 4! inches. The
diameter of the horizontal plate at the point where the verniers and graduation
meet is 3$ inches. The tripod is furnished with an adjustable head for precise
plumbing over a centre. The weight of the instrument exclusive of tripod head
and legs is 5 Ibs. The weight of the tripod is 3 Ibs. The instrument, with its
various additional parts (such as sun-tube, screw-drivers, magnifier, etc.), is
packed in a box 8 inches long, 5 inches wide, and y£ inches deep. This box is
arranged with straps to allow of its being carried over the shoulder. The con-
stant to be added to every recorded stadia reading of this instrument was ob-
tained as follows : Object focal length, 4$ inches ; object-glass to centre of
instrument, 3f inches. Hence, if 8£ inches be added to the stadia measure-
ment, the measurement will then be to the centre of the instrument or plummet.
We found this instrument reliable, its graduation very good, and the power of
its telescope remarkable.

SEXTANT. — The sextant was one of Stackpole's best. It reads to 10" of arc,
and was provided with all the accessories usually accompanying such an instru-
ment. The pocket sextant was made by James Green, of New York, and read
to minutes of arc. Both these instruments did good service.

BAROMETERS. — The two mercurial and two aneroid barometers used were

10

made by James Green, of New York, especially for this work, and were the
best instruments he could produce. The two mercurial barometers had double
verniers reading to -002 of an inch, and were capable of recording 18,000 feet
elevation. They were each packed first in a wooden case, which was then
placed in a leathern sheath, and thus thoroughly prepared for rough usage
and mountain work. They worked admirably together, as was shown by a
long series of comparisons before and after leaving Princeton. A comparison
was also made before and after each day's work, and the extreme variation was
never found to exceed -004 of an inch. We carried with these instruments a
case of repairing articles, including bottles of mercury, leather, thread, etc..
also six extra tubes in a box, so that in case of an accident we would not be
left hopelessly in the lurch. But such was the quality of the workmanship dis-
played in these instruments that notwithstanding the exceedingly rough usage
they received, not a repair was necessary, and they were brought home in
as good working condition as when they started out. Of the two aneroids, one
read on its face to 20,000 feet, with 5o-feet divisions. It was also divided to
14 inches, again divided to hundredths. The other read to 15,000 feet, with
5O-feet divisions, and was also divided to 14 inches, and hundredths. These
two instruments were selected from six first-class ones as the best of the lot.
They were tested by trials under the air-pump in the physical laboratory at
Princeton, and worked well, though they have not done so well since their
return.

LEVELLING-ROD. — The levelling-rod was made by Keuffel & Esser, of New
York. It was an engineer's telescopic rod, and read to thousandths of a foot.

LEVELS. — The two levels were the ordinary pocket-levels, with level-tube
on the inside of the tube, and an inclined mirror at the bottom of the same to
reflect the image of the bubble. They were made by Mr. Green, of New York.

PRISMATIC COMPASS. — This instrument was also made by Mr. Green, and
of the same pattern as is used by the United States Engineer Corps.

COMPASSES AND CLINOMETER. — These were made by Mr. Green. There were
three small compasses for pocket use in brass cases. The clinometer was a
3-inch compass, mounted upon a square piece of brass, one edge of which
served as a base for the clinometer index. This compass was also provided
with sighting slits.

TELESCOPES. — These were made by Bardou fils & Cie., of Paris, having
glasses of i^ and 2 inches diameter. Both of them were pieces of fine work-
manship, and were of great service on account of their clear definition and high
powers.

THERMOMETERS. — These were graded according to Fahrenheit and made by
Mr. Green. Each had a wooden case of its own. One of them was used for a
wet bulb thermometer in meteorological observations.

TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORT.

I. COLORADO.
I UTAH.

TOPOGRAPHICAL REPORT.

I.— COLORADO.

OUR work in Colorado was almost entirely hypsometric ;
but as we rode a great many miles on horseback through the
most beautiful and picturesque parts of that State, and in
that way obtained an idea of the topography of the country
through which our road lay, we shall give some account of
it. We were materially aided in this by the Government
reports of Dr. Hayden, which have left very little to be done
in that region in any of the departments of scientific investi-
gation. In this report, the plan of which has been to gather
together all the information possible on each of the special
points of interest that we visited, we shall aim to do little
more than glance at those features which were observed by
us, and therefore our description may seem as hurried as our
trip necessarily was. The pictures we have inserted will
almost explain themselves ; but a few words will sometimes
be quite proper to guide those who have never seen the places
referred to. The description will follow the course of our
trip, and on this account may seem somewhat disjointed ;
but our excuse is that there was no other course left open
for us ; any one, therefore, who expects a complete topo-
graphic report of this part of our work will be disappointed.
All we can hope is to give such information on the moun-
tains we measured and the places we visited as might be in-
structive to any one interested in the subject. With these
few words of introduction we will proceed first to the de-
scription of the Front Range as seen from Denver, and then
to a nearer view of its structure and of that of the land to
which it forms a border.

As one approaches the Rocky Mountains from the prairies,
the Front Range is the first object which greets the eyes ;
and it is rather a pleasant sight after the long journey over

H

the plains. This feeling- is also mixed with surprise at the
sudden change from plain to mountain, the cause of which
has been a puzzle to many a traveller. The abrupt change
from plain to mountain is not more sudden, however, than
the change in the geological composition of the two systems
under consideration. The mountains rising along the border
line present in their rough and precipitous faces the strong,
bold outlines produced by the metamorphic rocks, the granite,
gneiss and the shists; while the sedimentary rocks at their
bases, the limestones, shales, slates, clays and chiefly sand-
stones, present a very different appearance.

This border line extends in a nearly north and south line
about twenty miles west of Denver, and is admired for the
beauty of its outlines. The rapidity of its slopes (a marked
feature of the chain) afford a grand opportunity for the dis-
play of the effects of erosion, the summit of the range being
in many cases scarcely ten miles from the edge of the plains.
Any one looking at the map of Colorado will also be struck
by the beautiful arrangement of these chains en echelon.

Geologists tell us that this range was first elevated from
the sea, and then that all these sedimentary rocks were de-
posited against their base. These sedimentary rocks at their
point of contact with the granites are not horizontal, but have
been turned up on end by the force exerted by the granite
mass, against which they were deposited, when it lifted them
to their present positions. Their slope to the east from this
point is not more than 60° at any place. They form the
basis of the great plain, and were once the bed of the sea
which covered them, and which on receding left those thou-
sands of feet of sediment to be carved out and carried off by
the ice and water, which have left such wonderful traces of
their power in this western country.

The first feature of the lowlands that strikes the eye is the
low series of hills of a very even line of elevation, forming a
sort of horizon or belt near the foot of the mountains, cut at
intervals by the streams which descend from the mountains.
The ends of these hills that overlook the streams being after-
ward rounded, give each section a long, gently curved line at
their upper surface, which has earned for them the rather un-
fortunate name of " hogbacks." They seem to be a very

15

natural boundary line between the two geological systems
here brought together.

It is now believed that the sedimentary rocks, the ends of
which are now exposed to our view along the eastern side of
this valley, must have extended very much farther into the
mountains, and that after "the elevation of their mass they
were partly removed by erosion. The thickness of these
layers is given by Dr. Hayden's surveys at 7000 feet.

From the consideration of these general features let us
turn our attention to the various phenomena as seen when
travelling along between the granite and the sedimentary
rocks. No one can obtain an adequate idea of the wonders of
this famous strip of country until he has seen it for himself,
and it would be hopeless for us to attempt a description that
would fully convey the impression produced by these master-
pieces of the work of erosion. We shall therefore be con-
tent with the scientific part of the description, leaving the
imagination to fill up the blanks.

The Front Range is really broken but once below Denver
by a deep canon, where the Platte rushes from the South
Park through this narrow path to the plains. Below this
point, on the road to the south, we cross the low divide which
separates the Platte from Plum Creek, and soon descend
into the valley, whose curiously carved monuments, of which
we will speak below, make it so attractive.

About half-way between Denver and the Garden of the
gods we find the divide which separates the waters of the
Platte from those of the Arkansas. This slight elevation of
a little over 1000 feet above Denver controls the flow of the
tributaries of those streams until they reach the open plains
to the north and south of this point, when they take the direc-
tion of the long gentle slope to the east. To the south of
this divide these monuments increase in number until the
Garden of the gods is reached, which owes its name to the
grand display of these singular objects at that place.

These monuments seem to have been formed in several
ways, principally, however, by erosion ; these isolated parts
have been left because they were either of harder material
than that surrounding them, or more able to resist meteoric

i6

influences, or because of their position with regard to the
currents. They seem to be an aggregation of quartz grains
and pebbles loosely held together in a nearly circular column,
which tapers from the thick base towards the top. This shaft
is surmounted by a cap of rust-colored sandstone, which owes
its greater size to the oxide of iron that forms a cement, bind-
ing the grains together. This sandstone being on that ac-
count a much harder compound than the layers below it has
resisted erosion to a greater degree. The smaller monuments
here described vary in height from 10 to 20 feet. There
remain, however, some other forms which must not be
omitted in this description, and those are the castellated
forms of the larger table buttes or " mesas." These mass-
ive objects are from 100 to 250 feet in height, and are some-
times capped with a layer of purple porphyritic basalt.
They rise from the beautiful green meadows, and their almost
perpendicular sides give them an appearance which is par-
ticularly impressive just at sunset.

There seems to be but little doubt that this line of up-
turned strata exists throughout the whole length of the Front
Range, though hidden in some parts of its length. It is
separated from the Front Range by a valley, the portion of
which that lies fifty miles to the north of Colorado Springs
is the most picturesque, and will always retain its celebrity,
on account of the striking forms of erosion just described.

Pike's Peak is situated just west from Manitou and the
Garden of the gods. It is a mountain composed of fine-
grained reddish granite, which is believed to be metamorphic.
The appearance of some fragments of sedimentary rock at its
foot gives rise to the supposition that in Silurian times there
was a bay at its base, this being the point farthest west at
which these rocks are found in this range. It is also the
point where the summit of the range approaches nearest to
the plains ; the upheaving force seems here to have been ex-
pended in elevating the older layers above the sea, making
them form part of the shore-line and driving the sea more to
the east ; whereas to the north of this the force being more
distributed caused a more general elevation. The same is
supposed to be true with regard to the Mt. Evans group at

Single Butte, in "Garden of the Gods.

the other extremity of this line, both of these mountains seem-
ing to be centres of action.

The Ute Pass lies to the north of Pike's Peak, and is a very
beautiful and picturesque pass, cut out of the granite along
the course of the " Fontaine qui bouille," and is the road to
South Park, which comes to our notice next.

South Park is a large area of depression, of the general
shape of an ellipse, having a diameter of 45 miles from north-
west to southeast, and of 35 miles from northeast to south-
west. Its area is about 1200 square miles. It is not a perfectly
level plain, but has a general slope from the northwest,
almost to the base of the Front Range, where lies the
bed of the Platte. This accounts for the curious drain-
age system of the Park, as a moment's glance at the map will
show. The rivers flow down the long slope of the western
side till they reach the short counterslope of the eastern side,
and then turning almost at a right angle flow to the north-
east. The general elevation of the Park is about 8000 feet,
though it reaches 10,000 feet in the western part, and goes
down to 7000 where the Platte canon pierces the Front
Range. It is surrounded by mountains, the bases of which
bear the marks of its having been at one time the bed of a
lake, not only from the form of the basin, but mainly from the
sedimentary rocks found deposited there. The surface of
the plain is quite irregular, being cut up by numerous low
ridges, which are generally parallel to each other. In the
central portion there are also cross-ridges of trachyte, show-
ing the existence of some extended fissure from which this
igneous overflow took place. Otherwise the sandstones of
the Park are very little disturbed.

Before describing either the Park Range or the Sa watch,
let us look at the valley of the Arkansas, which lies between
them. It starts at the Tennessee Pass from a basin of gran-
ite, and has been formed partly by fissure and partly by
erosion. This valley varies in width from 8 to 10 miles, and
is cut down a hundred miles through the mountains to
Poncho Pass. It affords one of the finest fields for the study
of glacial action in the West. Dr. Hayden thinks * that the

* U. S. Geog. and Geol. Survey, Hayden, 1873, p. 39.

18

Park Range is a member of a great anticlinal, of which the
Sawatch is the nucleus or central axis. This valley coming
between these ranges was thus first opened by fissure, and
then the enormous work of erosion commenced. At first the
valley must have had a huge glacier running from north to
south through its length, as there are still traces of such a gla-
cier in the markings on the sides of the mountains and in the
drift matter on its slopes. Then part of this valley formed
the bed of a large lake, as is shown by the deposits in the
bottoms where they are exposed. This lake occupied the
lower half of the valley, and when it was drained off through
the opening now traversed by the Arkansas River the heavy
and coarse material at the upper end and the finer drift matter
at the lower end were exposed. The valley has many rounded
oblong hills, which are covered by debris, and range in
height from 500 to 700 feet. After this first large glacier
came others, which might be called secondary, and occu-
pied the beds of the present tributary streams of the
Arkansas. Each one of these is marked by large moraines,
and where exposed, the glaciation is magnificent. The
masses of rock which have been transported by these agencies
are incredibly large, often reaching 100 feet in diameter. The
largest of these valleys is that of Lake Creek. This whole
valley must have been occupied by a glacier of from 1000 to
1500 feet in depth. The terminal moraines of this glacier are
remarkable for their size. Everywhere the traveller is hin-
dered in his journey by mounds, ridges, basins and boulders,
the latter often from 20 to 50 feet in diameter. Worn rocks
are also exposed, showing the effect of ice on their surfaces.
The upper part of the valley has two lakes in it, whose basins
were doubtless formed by the glaciers. These lakes are
about 350 yards apart and connected by a small stream. The
lower of these lakes is the largest, being 2-J- miles in length
and ij in breadth, its greatest depth being 75 feet. The
upper lake is I mile in length and £ mile in breadth, having
a depth of 79 feet.

On either side of this valley are the Sawatch and Park
Ranges, the origin of which we have already indicated. The
great mass of the Sawatch Range is a granite nucleus, with
now and then a dike of some foreign material. There is one

19

very remarkable feature about this range, and that is the
superficial covering of earth which reaches clear to the
summits of many of the peaks. About the middle portion of
the range are situated the three prominent peaks of Prince-
ton, Yale, and Harvard; respectively, 14,208; 14,187, 14,375
feet above the level of the sea.

Its companion, the Park Range, is very irregular in height,
being much cut to pieces by erosion. One of its marked fea-
tures are the trachytic beds which are interstratified among
its other rocks ; these layers have, in places, a thickness of
1000 feet. Another peculiarity is the presence of the large
amphitheatres at the head ol the streams which arise on its
eastern slope. It is very precipitous on the western side, its
gentle inclination to the east giving rise to the supposition of
its being an anticlinal.

Little remains for us to do now but to glance at that knot
of mountains which centre in Mt. Gray, forming a connecting
link between the Front and Park Ranges, two of whose
peaks we measured : Mts. Evans and Silverheels. As the
main crest of the Front Range approaches Mt. Torrey, it
suddenly rises from its usual height of about 12,000 feet to
.the magnificent elevation of over 14,350 feet. From Mts.
Gray and Torrey a very imposing and high ridge runs
out to the east, which reaches its climax in Mt. Evans.
From Mt. Gray the Range to near Mt. Lin'coln is much
higher than in any other part. We crossed the Argentine
Pass at 13,100 feet, and the Hoosier Pass at 12,364 feet. Mt.
Silverheels is on this ridge just before it reaches Hoosipr
Pass, and is also the centre of another group of mountains.
It might be said that the main ridge reaches here its maxi-
mum height, for a pass at this point is 13,650 feet. Near Mt
Lincoln the main ridge meets the Park Range at right angles,
and we shall leave it at this point to follow the Park Range
far enough to mention the three mountains we measured on
its crest. The Park Range has four mountains at this point, all
within a short distance of each other, which are above 14,000
feet; of these we measured three: Mts. Quandary, Lincoln
and Bross. It is also noted for its high passes, the number of
its peaks, and the amphitheatres at the heads of the several
valleys. This brings us to the end of our work in Colorado.

2O

PICTURES.
The pictures we have been able to give are as follows :

THE GATEWAY IN THE u GARDEN OF THE GODS." The
two large remnants of a perpendicular stratum of red sand-
stone which was cut in two by erosion form this gateway.
In the foreground is seen a stratum of white sandstone, also
on its edge. In the distance Pike's Peak is dimly outlined.

A SINGLE BUTTE. This has already been described, and
will be readily recognized.

GLEN EYRIE. We give two views ; one of the " needle
rocks," as a remarkable example of the work of erosion, and
the other of the edge of one of these upturned ledges which
gives a fine idea of its structure.

MT. PRINCETON. This mountain is in the Sawatch Range.
It is noted for its symmetry. The broad valley of the Arkan-
sas is in the foreground.

THE WESTERN TWIN LAKE. This is the smaller of the
two lakes. Two unnamed peaks of the Sawatch chain are
shown in the background.

WESTERN SLOPE OF THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. This
view is in the Twin Lake region.

, BLUE RIVER AND MOUNTAINS. This view is given as
a specimen of a deep and wooded valley. The slope of the
mountains, it will be noticed, is very steep. The height of
the ridge above the valley is 3000 feet.

MT. LINCOLN. The view is taken from Hoosier Pass,
and embraces Montgomery Gulch on the right hand side of
the picture. The trachytic dikes spoken of in the report are
well brought out on the side of the mountain.

MT. GRAY. The view is taken from the Argentine Pass,
and shows Mt. Torrey on the right.

Glen Eyrie
No. 1 1.

21

II.— UTAH.

Concerning the topography of the Uintah Range, how-
ever, we will go a little more into detail ; especially in regard
to the valley, which we endeavored to study with more care
than any other part. A careful comparison of what may be
said here with the map before one's eyes, will give an ade-
quate idea of the many beauties, as well as the remarkable
structural features, of the valley. We regret very much
that we are not able to give any pictures of this strange
place. Prof. O. C. Marsh says* of the Green River Basin, in
the March number of the American Journal of Science and Art
for 1871, p. 197 :

"While descending the northern slope of the mountains toward the great
Tertiary Basin of the Green River, which lay in the distance 2000 feet below us,
we passed over a high ridge, from the summit of which appeared one of the
most striking and instructive views of geological structure to be seen in any
country. Sweeping in gentle curves around the base of the mountains from
where we stood, many miles to the northward was a descending series of con-
centric, wavelike ridges, formed of the upturned edges of differently colored
strata, which dipped successively away from the Uintahs, those nearest to us
40° or more, those at a distance seeming but little, — altogether a scene never to
be forgotten. Apparently, we had before us a geological series from the Palae-
ozoic to the Tertiary."

Fort Bridger is situated in this valley, about fifty miles to
the north of the point from which, we suppose, this view
was taken, and we can do no better than to quote Prof.
Marsh once more, when he says :

"Fort Bridger is situated at the northern base of the Uintah Mountains,
about 7000 feet above the sea. The surrounding plain is part of a great basin
of denudation, washed out of light clays and soft sandstones of the Tertiary
age ; the deposits in one of the great fresh-water lakes that replaced the Creta-
ceous sea, from which the mass of the Rocky Mountains emerged. Remnants
of the strata removed may be seen at various points around ; some in the shape
of flat, isolated buttes, and others forming benches resting horizontally against
the sides of the mountains. These fragments serve to show the great original
thickness of this lake deposit, which cannot have been less than 1500 feet, and
may have been much greater."

The Uintah Range is a system which leaves the Wahsatch
Mountains in about latitude 40° N. with an elevation of nearly

* See also Dr. Jos. Leidy, Geol. Survey of the Ter., 1872, p. 651.

22

12,000 feet, and runs east throughout its whole length; at
first, a little north of east and then with a single bend going
southeast. It seems to reach its maximum in Gilbert's Peak,
which cannot be far from 14,000 feet of elevation. From this
point it descends till it terminates near the Green River.
The range forms an immense ridge, with an almost level, but
badly broken up belt on top, which has an elevation of about
6000 feet above the table-land on the north, and apparently
about 7000 feet above the similar table-land on the south.
The valleys are numerous, deep, and narrow, except at the
head, and extend quite to the summit. Between these val-
leys on the north are the transverse and generally unbroken
ridges by means of which the summit can be reached by a
gradual ascent. On the south these transverse ridges seem
to be very much broken toward the summit. The opposite
valleys start from nearly the same point, and have between
them only a thin precipitous wall, which erosion is slowly re-
moving. Gilbert's Pass at the head of Smith's Fork is such
a point, where the wall has been sufficiently worn away to
admit of the construction of a road across it. There are few
if any other such places at present.*

The sides of the ridges which bound these valleys are
generally masses of boulders and debris in sitti, making their
ascent almost an impossibility, and travelling a very difficult
operation. The country to the north from the end of these
ridges descends in a series of terraced plateaus of soft earth,
the slopes of the terraces being generally as steep as the
earth will stand.

The whole top of this elevated belt of country is very badly
broken up by cracks in many places, affording a fine chance
for the study of dynamical geology. It seems to have been
the favorite battle-ground of the elements, some of the peaks
having- been literally crushed into a mass of huge boulders.

Our topographic survey in this valley has been carefully
worked out and embodied in the principal map which accom-
panies this report. The diary of the trip will give the daily
occurrences, and for this reason it will only be necessary
here to indicate the route taken and the bases which were

* See Geol. Survey of 4Oth Parallel vol. ii. p. 257.

23

measured. Starting out from Carter's station, and using the
height given by the Union Pacific Railroad (6530 feet), we as-
certained the height of Fort Bridger to be 6714. 8 feet. Then
by a series of half-day corresponding observations and com-
parisons we moved on up into the mountains, heading to-
ward Gilbert's Meadow, which, although we found it a good
camping place, was not a point for active work, and hence we
had to move on to a camp at the head of the west branch of
Smith's Fork. We remained there till the place of our day's
work became too far off for us to reach it comfortably. We
then moved to the centre of the East Branch of Smith's
Fork's valley, upon one side of which we had been working.
From this base we operated most successfully, till we were
forced to make our way back on account of the storms which
occurred daily. We weat back slowly, verifying our work,
and returned to Fort Bridger to find our circle of elevations
come to a close within two feet. Although the result may
be an accident, still this speaks for itself. The barometric
bases measured were as follows :

Fort Bridger 6714-8

St. Louis Mills 8557-6

Gilbert's Meadow 9733 • 2

West Branch of Smith's Fork 10626-0

East " " 10555-0

Steel's Mills ... 9357-0

Herd House 7085-0

The points measured from these bases were as follows :

No. 1 10796-4

" IV 10814-0

" V 11910-0

" VI...'. 11605-5

" VII H397-0

" VIII 12804-8

IX 12799-5

X.. 13052.- o

" XI 12804.0

XII 12622-9

" XIII 12688-2

" XIV 12245-6

" XV 13069-7

" XVI 12401-9

" XVII 12528-8

Timber Line 11144-4

24

Geologically considered, the Uintah Mountains are the re-
sult of an upheaval which followed closely the Carboniferous
Epoch. In this upheaval a great belt of country from 25 to
30 miles wide was raised to its extreme elevation, without
materially disturbing the inclination of the strata ; it being
possible that the present dip, which increases from 3° at the
summit to 6° at the south, is the same that existed before the
mountains were lifted. Upon both edges of this belt the
strata are broken axially, dipping on the north side 38° to
the north, 12° 12' west, from the true meridian, and on the
south about 43° to the south, 12° 12' east, in the longitude of
Gilbert's Peak. The main anticlinal axis is on the north edge
and in the same longitude bears north 77° 48' east from the
true meridian.

The uplifted beds, as displayed by the lateral erosion, are
almost entirely composed of a brownish red — rarely gray-
sandstone of the subcarboniferous epoch, scarcely fossilifer-
ous, which is metamorphosed into quartzite along the anti-
clinal cracks. They are of very great thickness, from 2500
to 3000 feet being visible near the summit.

Along the main anticlinal axis, and especially across the
uplifted belt previously alluded to, are numerous lateral
cracks that have been the starting-points of an amount of ero-
sion that seems wonderful. They have been worn into enor-
mous amphitheatrical basins from 2000 to 3000 feet deep,
from two to three miles wide at the head, which gradually
widen till they reach a point some four or five miles down
the valley, and then again they come together in a canon
or precipitous valley, which continues for some eight or ten
miles below. Those on the north are generally worn quite
across the axis into the high belt beyond.

The large basins, previously described, range along either
side of the summit line, and thus have a direction consid-
erably oblique to that of the prevailing winds, and, in con-
sequence, the amount of snow which drifts into them dur-
ing the winter must be enormous. At such an altitude this
snow melts comparatively slowly, and furnishes an almost
continuous supply of water to the very numerous mountain
streams, much of it having been first caught in the multitude
of small lakes which are sprinkled along in the basins. On

COUNTRY BETWEEN

FORT BRIDGER

AND THE

18KTWJ

25

the north side there is' a great deal of marshy land in these
basins ; but on the south the water, having to make about
looo feet more descent, runs off too rapidly to leave any
marsh. This circumstance, combined with the greater heat
of the southern exposure, makes many of the smaller streams
on that side run dry early in the season. The streams head-
ing in these mountains are characterized by main features
which are common to all. They are generally quite small,
and, taking their rise in the summit basins, they flow on the
north side, through narrow gorges with steep, heavily-
wooded slopes, until they emerge from the foot-hills in the
terraced plateaus which abut against the base of the range.
Above the plains their water is almost pure, from the fact of
its flowing only over sandstone. This quality, together
with its great coolness, makes the head-waters of these
streams the favorite abode of a very superior kind of moun-
tain trout. Below the upper limit of tree growth, which is
at about an altitude of 11,000 feet, the mountain ridges are
covered with a dense forest, very much interspersed with
small open meadows, with their grass often spreading itself
for a considerable distance into the timber.

The valley bottoms are rich and pretty generally covered
with grass ; willow and cotton-wood trees grow near the
water, with groves of pine on the mountain slopes. Every-
where, even to the borders of the snow-banks almost at the
mountain heights, there is a luxuriant display of flowers,
and grasses thrive along the top of the ridges, above the limit
of tree growth and quite up to the summit of the range.

The soil of the plateaus between the streams is almost ex-
clusively yellow marl, mingled with, and overlain in many
places by broad lines of drift from the mountains. It is quite
rich, and, under different climatic influences, fit to sustain
vegetation. At present only sage-brush, grease-wood, and
bunch-grass grow upon it.

The whole of the mountain slopes, from the edge of the ter-
raced plateaus to an altitude of about 11,000 feet, are covered
with extensive forests of white and yellow pine, spruce, red
cedar, hemlock, and aspen. Nearly all of these woods were
of young growth ; thus giving evidence that extensive fires
have raged here at intervals over a long period of time.

26

We commenced our triangulation in Smith's Fork Valley
by establishing a base-line on the top of the long ridge which
runs between the east and west branches of the river. This
line was measured very carefully. A difference of -f$ of an inch
only was found between the several measurements. From
the ends of this line our triangles stretched up the side upon
which our camp was situated, and across to the other side.
It will be seen from the triangulation map given in the report
that somex parts of the valley figured in the main map were
not reached by us ; these we were enabled to fill in from
sketches which we took from several points, as was our cus-
tom whenever it did not rain too hard. The height of No.
n was ascertained from the top of No. 12, which was seen
to be nearly on a level with it, so nearly that the small frac-
tion of a foot given fully covers the difference. Where it
was possible, we of course measured all the angles of our
triangles, but as we never reached the summit of No. n, on
account of its precipitous sides, we could not make the meas-
urement of the angles centering there. It formed, however,
a fine triangulation point, as it had a sharp, spire-like head,
which was situated just at the summit of cliffs rising perpen-
dicularly almost 2000 feet from the valley below. We expe-
rienced little difficulty in finding our monuments, as the air
was remarkably clear when we could work, and probably
this accounts for the accuracy of our triangles ; they closed
within half a minute of arc, and, as our transit only read to
minutes, we thought they would answer our present purpose.
The measurement of the triangles was always repeated three
times and the mean of the three readings taken. Compass
directions of the lines were also taken when the electricity
permitted. We had two camps in our work in this region ;
one in the little rounded valley at the head of the west
branch of Smith's Fork, on the left-hand bank ; the other on
the little hill directly at the base of No. n, on the lower side
of the hill, about twenty yards from the right-hand head of
the east branch of the same river, at a point a little above
the place where it joins the other head. The topography of
this valley we have found very hard to represent on paper
by means of topographical emblems on account of several
features which seem to be entirely peculiar to it— we refer

(5,80 »f. oo

mnoo

DISTANCES AND HEIGHTS
GIVEN IN FEET.

IOglH.00

.r. t^.t

27

to the very precipitous sides of the valley — and others not
frequently seen elsewhere. These we have represented
according to our best understanding of them, and it is hoped
that the larger map, together with what is here written
concerning the valley, will need no further explanations. A
second map has been prepared, in which are embodied the
results of our sketches on our road back to Fort Bridger,
together with such information as we could obtain from the
inhabitants, and an old map which Judge Carter was kind
enough to lend us, which latter, however, we found incorrect
in some particulars. This map we give as a mere hint as to
the relation between Fort Bridger and the Smith's Fork
Valley. The third map contains the skeleton triangulation
of the main map. In this map the distances and heights are
given in feet. As the heights have been given already we will
only here repeat the distances :

Base-line, 897-71 ( 6-8 ) 15965-30 (11-16) 8617-64

(1-3) 1918-73 ( 7-8 ) 15001-72 (n-17) I2334-48

(2-3) 2425-53 ( 6-9 ) 17139 -16 ( 8-12) 3139-89

(3-4) 6509-76 ( 6-10) 19376-58 (12-13) 4374-10

(2-4) 8646-42 ( 8-9 ) 22204-57 (13-14) 3800-44

(3-5) I3697-79 ( 8-10) 23574.38 (13-15) 6348-36

(4-5) 7594-6o (lo-n) 18478-17 (13-16) 5170-66

(4-6) 10492-84 (n-8 ) 16789-81 (15-16) 2223-76

(5-6) 8462-10 (11-12) 14556-17 (14-17) 1299-89

(5-7) 6280-00 (11-13) 13242-73 (14-16) 3966-87

(5-8) 18581-26 (n-14) 12306-12

A noticeable feature of this region is the scarcity of birds,
reptiles, and insects. We saw only a few snakes and lizards
on these plateaus. Musquitoes are very numerous in the
months of June, July, and August, after which, we under-
stand, they disappear. The deer-fly is a ferocious insect,
very much like the common horse-fly, but larger and with
irridescent colors, sometimes yellow, green, and red being
banded together on its head. They go in swarms, attacking
both man and beast, and are a terrible scourge to animals.

We have chosen to name one of these peaks (our point No,
u) Santa Anna Mountain, from our faithful Mexican guide.

HYPSOMETRICAL REPORT.

I. COLORADO.
II. UTAH.
III. BAROMETRIC WORK.

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

HYPSOMETRICAL REPORT.

I.— COLORADO.

OUR hypsometric work was entirely done by means of
mercurial barometers. In Colorado this was done very hur-
riedly as to time, but not as to carefulness. We measured
Pike's Peak, Mt. Lincoln, Mt. Bross, Mt. Silverheels, Mt.
Quandary, Mt. Princeton, Mt. Gray, and Mt. Evans, with
very fair results, as will be seen by the comparison which we
make with the heights of these same peaks as given by other
observers. We give this comparison in a tabular form, with
the height of the two bases measured by us, as well as their
heights as given by others :

Princeton.

Hayden. Wr.

and Wy.*

Manitou

6^1 -OO

6357-OO

Pike's Peak

I4I47'28

14146- 56+

Alma. .

10^64 • ^o

Wr

10254 ' oo

Mt. Bross

142^ -2O

Mt Lincoln

I42Q7 • 80

I42Q7-OO AVv

I43O7 • OO

Mt Silverheels

13861 • oo

13807-00 Wy

13832 • oo

Mt. Quandary.

14281 • oo

14260 • oo

Mt. Princeton

14208-90

14196-00 Wr.

. . I4O4I -OO

Mt Evans

jjoea . «o

14^40 -oo

Mt. Gray

14^6"^ • ^O

14^41-00 "Wv

I4^IQ-OO

* Wr., Wheeler. Wy., Whitney.

t U. S. Signal Service.

In many cases our measurements vary no more than ten
feet either way from the others, and this small difference is to
be considered as of no importance in such a height, as it
would seem like disputing about the thousandth of an inch in
a man's measurement.

Where no base is mentioned in the above table, we used
the place nearest the mountain that we wished to measure ;
obtaining its height by corresponding observation between
it and some other place whose height was already known.
For example, we obtained the height of our barometer in

32

Manitou by observations between it and the depot of the
Rio Grande Railroad at Colorado Springs. The station in
Manitou was in the Beebee House, in a room on the second
floor on the rear of the building. In the height given, this
difference is allowed for, and the elevation is that of the
ground. The difference between our height and that of Dr.
Hayden's may be due to the difference in the location chosen
as the point to be measured, as this could easily be allowed
for on such rough ground. In measuring Mts. Lincoln,
Bross, Silverheels, and Quandary, we used Alma as a base,
and obtained its height by a careful series of observations
between it and a point the height of which was known, in
Fairplay. For the measurement of Mt. Princeton, we used
the height of Helena, as given by the surveys of the South
Park Railroad. For the measurements of Mts. Gray and
Evans, we took the height of the Clear Creek Railroad sta-
tion at Georgetown as a basis, and measured the height up
to our stationary barometer, which was in the Barton House.
In the measurement* of these last two mountains we com-
pared the two mercurials and one aneroid very carefully,
and left the aneroid below with an observer, Mr. Osborn,
and took the others to the summits of the two mountains at
the same time. It was our object to make simultaneous ob-
servations, in order to find out which of the two was the high-
er. In this we were successful, but were rather disappointed
in the day being stormy, and thus not giving us as good an
opportunity as we wished.

Our barometers were our constant companions, although
we rode several hundred miles on horseback, and we usually
carried in addition to them the rest of our instruments
strapped to our bodies. We usually carried, besides the
barometer, a pocket-sextant, aneroid, level, thermometer,
clinometer and compass, and a telescope, together with our
notebooks.

II.— UTAH.

Most of our barometric stations in our Utah measurements
were also the stations of our triangles, and have therefore
been already described in the topographical part of this

0)

03
fl
OS

oc

OF THE

UNIVERSITY

OF

33

report. Our barometers were always used in the same way
as in Colorado, the same rules being followed in every case.
We have reserved this matter, however, for the following
section, where we intend to discuss the methods we made use
of. It will be needless to repeat here the list of heights
already given in the topographical report. The only pecu-
liarity of our work in Utah was that the lower barometer
was situated for most of the time in the centre of the valley
of the East Branch of Smith's Fork.

Our usual method of procedure was, on reaching the top
of the mountains, to lay the instruments on the ground and
build a monument, which not only served as a point of refer-
ence for our transit, but as a support for the barometer.
Then setting up the transit, and hanging the barometer by
the side of the monument, we first made the transit observa-
tions, and then those of the barometer; thus, giving the
barometer ample time to cool off and adjust itself, observa-
tions were then made on it, which lasted from half to three
quarters of an hour. The mean of these was taken in the
general calculations, but when greater care seemed to be
needed, each observation was calculated separately.

We resorted to every expedient within our reach to make
our work correct. We remeasured the peaks of whose meas-
urements we were in any degree doubtful. When ascend-
ing one slope, if by means of our pocket-level we found we
were on a level with a summit on the other, we measured the
point on which we stood, and drew a sketch from it, which
gave us a good contour line to follow.

Sketches were also made from the various peaks, which gave
us the drainage of the valley, and of its neighboring ones,
Black's and Henry's Forks. Our transit measurements
were generally checked by the pocket-sextant, in what is
known as a " tour d'horizon." We also made many measure-
ments of the dip of the strata, where any importance was
attached to them.

In addition to the instruments carried in Colorado, we had
our transit with its tripod, and this made quite a load.

34
III.— BAROMETRIC WORK.

The barometers used were always carefully compared
before and after each day's work, and a long comparison,
lasting for three days, was made before and after our trip,
which gave very good results, and proved the barometers
worthy of confidence. There was a constant difference of
•002 of an inch, which was obtained from the observations
made before we started. This was, at times, increased to
• 004 of an inch, but never more.

We observed the usual elements for barometric measure-
ments in the following order : date, time, temperature of the
barometer, height of the barometric column, temperature of
the air, and the general state of the atmosphere. The meteor-
ological record will give the elements used in our corres-
ponding observations. We also made it a point to expose
our barometers to the free action of the atmosphere, but out
of the direct rays of the sun, in the shade either of a mon-
ument, a house, or a tree. In all our measurements the lower
barometer was brought as close as possible to the base of
the mountain, in order to avoid any differences of pressure
which might arise from the horizontal distance of the two
instruments. For the same reason we preferred, when prac-
ticable, a position in a north and south line, in order to
diminish the influence of barometric waves passing from
west to east. The exact altitude of this lower station was
always obtained (when we could not get the height from any
reliable source) by a series of observations between it and
some place the elevation of which could be relied upon. We
were often helped in this by the consultation of the maps and
surveys of railroads, to which we were given access in the
most obliging way. The tables used in the calculation of
the heights from the observations were the Hypsometrical
Tables in the " Smithsonian Meteorological and Physical
Tables," prepared by Dr. Guyot.

The influence of the time of the day at which the observa-
tions have been taken, an element too often neglected in
barometrical measurements, has been corrected by means of
a manuscript table by the same author. This table gives the
corrections to be applied to the results obtained for each
hour of the day, and each month of the year. These correc-

Blue River and Mountains, from
Hoosier Pass.

35

tions have been derived from the elaborate discussion by
Prof. E. Plantamour of the long series of thermometrical and
barometrical observations made at Geneva and the St. Ber-
nard, as a means of ascertaining altitudes, in the " M6moires
de la Societe de Physique de Geneve." They are calculated
for use in connection with the class of hypsometric tables
founded upon the barometric formula of La Place, to which
Dr. Guyot's tables belong.

The total correction thus applied for the influence of the
hour of the day, contains two main corrections, one for the
difference in amount and in time, above and below, in the
daily tide of the barometer, the so-called horary (hourly)
variation ; and another, by far the largest, for the error in the
true mean temperature and moisture of the layer of air
between the upper and lower barometer, as given by the
observation of the instruments at both stations. As the last
depends upon conditions of the atmosphere extremely vari-
able, which cannot be reduced to a formula, it is evident that
the amount of the total correction has to be modified accord-
ing to the various states of the atmosphere existing at the
time of the observation. When the sky is clouded, or during
a fog, and with a gentle wind mixing the layers of the atmo-
sphere, the average temperature of the air, given by the arith-
metical mean of the upper and lower thermometers, will be
much nearer the true one than when the air is calm, the sky
clear, and the insolation and radiation excessive. In the latter
case the layers nearer the ground, in which the instruments
are necessarily placed, show abnormal temperatures, which,
according to the hour of the day at which they are taken, are
either above or below the mean temperature of the whole
mass of the air.

We have, therefore, somewhat modified the amount of the
correction when it seemed advisable to do so, after a careful
consideration of the atmospheric circumstances indicated in
the accompanying meteorological record.

We feel confident that by this method, the greater part, if not
the whole, of the influence of the hour of the day is corrected.

The elements of the corrections having been derived from
observations made between 1000 and 9000 feet, it remains to
be seen whether they are equally applicable to higher alti-
tudes. This matter remains for future investigation. Thus

far the results of our measurements up to nearly 14,400 feet
seem to justify their use to an altitude of 15,000 feet.

We will now devote a little space to the aneroid barome-
ters, and a few facts that were noticed concerning them dur-
ing our stay in Colorado. The best one of these instruments
was given to the Palaeontologists when we reached Fort
Bridger, and the other was left in our camp while we were
in the mountains, and used but little.

They were taken more for the purpose of giving them a
series of severe tests than for any work that we expected of
them. One or the other of them was always carried to the
top of each mountain we measured in Colorado, having been
previously carefully set and compared with the mercurial
barometers. In the measurement of the eight mountains upon
which they were used they always acted in the same peculiar
manner, seldom reaching their true height within half an
hour of the time they were on the top ; and on the return
having as much hesitation about coming to a standstill.

There seem to be two great causes of such actions. The
first and principal one is the unequal expansion and contrac-
tion of the metallic box upon which the measurements
depend ; the second of these causes is the mechanical work
performed by the same box in the rotation of the index.

This last difficulty can be, and in fact has been, overcome
in that form of aneroid made by Goldschmid, of Zurich;
but the first cannot be as easily cured, as it seems to be a
defect in the system employed. The metal having once been
expanded can never return to the same condition, a change
having probably taken place in the situation of its molecular
components.

We give the following as examples of this action of the
aneroids ; they are a fair sample of the rest, and not exagger-
ated ones :

Pike's Peak, July $th, 1877. — Barometer 2233, at Lake House, two feet above the

ground.

TIME.

T.

B.

t.

Aneroid.

REMARKS.

A.M.

5.40
5-50
5.60

58.2
60.5
61.6

21.014
21.014
21.016

59.0

59-9
60.0

21.38
21.39
21.39

Fair and warm.
Clouds I. cirrus.
Wind N.W.\.

37

Pike's Peak, July $th, 1877. — Baromete* 2233, on the outside of the house of the
Signal Service. T^vo feet six inches below the highest point of the mountain.

TIME.

T.

B.

t.

Aneroid.

,, REMARKS.

A.M.

9-45
9-50

53-6

52.8

18.250

18.252

49-1

48.4

18.85
18.83

Fair and "warm.
Clouds 4, cirro cumulus.

9-55

54-3

18.250

4Q.I

18.85

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JO.OO

52.3

18.250

47-3

18.85

10.05

50.3

18.248

48.1

18.85

10.10

51.6

18.248

48.3

18.89

10.15

50.6

18.250

47-1

18.83

This table also gives the form in which our observations were taken and kept.

These facts lead us to infer that, though the aneroid may
answer very well for the comparatively small heights of our
Eastern coasts, it will hardly do for such great elevations, or
for such long distances as are found in the West. It needs
constant watching and correcting by comparisons with a
mercurial barometer, as its zero point is apt to change by the
handling of the instrument. The influence of the tempera-
ture, even in those which bear on their face " compensated" is
by no means eliminated, and a correction has to be found ex-
perimentally for each instrument. It also needs (an idea
which few persons having an aneroid seem to realize) con-
siderable care in transportation, and an accident to it is whol-
ly beyond the possibility of repair in the field, while a mercu-
rial barometer, with the aid of a little ingenuity, can be read-
ily repaired, if pains have been taken to carry the requisite
duplicate parts along with the instrument.

METEOROLOGICAL REPORT.

UTAH.

Mt. Lincoln and the Head Waters
of the Platte.

METEOROLOGICAL REPORT.

THE six weeks which were spent in the mountain valley
of Smith's Fork were marked by great variations of tempera-
ture, and many curious phenomena, both in atmospheric and
magnetic changes, which were very noteworthy. We were
somewhat sheltered in our camp from the violence of the
storms which swept over the mountains above us, but at
the last part of our stay we had the only alternative of work-
ing early in the morning and on till eleven o'clock A.M., or
doing no work at all. When it is also remembered that a
height of 3000 feet had to be climbed from our camp before
our real day's work began, and that, even then, we were not
at all sure that we would not be driven out by electric
storms at any moment, some of the difficulties of our work
may be appreciated. The storms, usually of snow or hail,
set in on the mountains at eleven and continued until late in
the afternoon, during which time it was almost an impossi-
bility to go near the top of the ridge without the most
painful sensations caused by electricity. While the hail-
storms lasted (and they were frequent) those who were on
the ridge had to seek shelter under the ledges to avoid the
hard blows from globes of ice often reaching from one half
to three quarters of an inch in diameter. We were finally
driven from the mountains by these storms, as they reduced
our working hours to a minimum ; and we had to return to
Fort Bridger. The meteorological record, though a mere
record of the state of the atmosphere for a few days at a
time, gives, nevertheless, on a close examination, some very
interesting facts in regard to the curious action of the air ;
but it can be of no great value otherwise. The observations
were taken every fifteen minutes during the days in which
they were kept, and were made with more special reference
to the corresponding observations of the barometer, in order

42

to obtain the full account of the circumstances under which
we were working, than for a regular and systematic meteoro-
logical record. The tables explain themselves, giving in
separate columns the various necessary elements, viz. : Date,
time, temperature, barometer observed, barometer reduced to
the freezing point, wet and dry bulb thermometers, their
difference and the relative humidity derived from it, the
wind's direction and force, the cloudiness and the nature of
the clouds, with some remarks on the state of the weather.

The storms which we encountered were without doubt the
result of the overheating of those large and elevated plateaus,
the inclined sides of which, as well as the mountain slopes,
expose a larger surface to the rays of the sun than would a
merely flat body. These circumstances would seem to help
the formation of strong ascending currents, which, having
once been started, furnish ample material for the midday
showers. These storms gradually extend their limits, as to
time, until the rainy season is complete. They seemed to be
similar to those of tropical regions, and this fact enabled us to
explain the presence of such large quantities of electricity in
the air. Once only, during our stay, did we observe two
different layers of clouds, one above the other, moving in
opposite directions. Their line of motion was almost due
N. E. and S. W., the upper one moving S. W. This was seen
from the cliff on which No. 9 is situated, and was watched
as a great curiosity, as one cloud was almost on a level
with us, and the other some distance above. We were now
and then favored with beautiful rainbows, on two occa-
sions seeing triple arcs, and a single one was the exception
rather than the rule. The temperature during the first part
of our stay was quite favorable to our work, being just cool
enough for the exercise of brisk walking during the day ; but
at night generally freezing the edges of the brook near our
camp, or any water left out in small vessels, thus making a
number of blankets very necessary articles for our comfort ;
and a blazing camp-fire of pine stumps not only a pleasure to
the eyes, but to the fingers also. Before the end of our stay
(our camp was at a height of 10,500 feet), we needed all
our heavy clothing and generally a fire all day as well as at
night.

43

The electricity spoken of above was very troublesome,
rendering the needle of the transit almost useless, and
running in a stream at times from the end of the barometer
to the ground. We received a great number of shocks when
using the instruments. The discharge seemed to come from
above us, but was not always accompanied by strokes of
lightning. We found that the simple practice of lifting the
hand above the head with one finger elevated served to
relieve the unpleasant sensation of buzzing behind the ears,
and, when once more it became unbearable, by lifting another
finger we made the body a sort of doubled Leyden jar. The
delay thus obtained enabled us to pack the instruments with
the other hand and to get away from the monument. In
one instance the monument (ill-fated No. 18, which was
only just built) was torn into fragments by lightning while
we were but a short distance off.* We sometimes found
the wind very troublesome while making observations with
the transit, as it blew with terrific force over the exposed
summits of the peaks. We were, however, very much pleased
with the invigorating air of the place, and when it was clear
we could not have wished for greater enjoyment in out-door
life than we found there.

* U. S. Geol. and Geog. Survey, 1874, p. 456, etc.

44

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I

APPENDIX.

DIARY OF THE TRIP

DIARY OF THE TRIP.

JUNE 21, THURSDAY.

AT 7 P.M. the members of the expedition assembled in the
study of Prof. Karge, and thence proceeded to Dr. Mc-
Cosh's house, to bid him good-by. He called us into his
study and prayed for our safety and success, and bid us all an
affectionate good-by. We then went on the same errand to
Dr. Guyot's, where he and his good wife wished us all possi-
ble success, and hoped we should bring back our own bones
in safety, as well as many fossils. When we reached the de-
pot we found a large number of the students had gathered,
and 'they sent us off with the old-time cheer and rocket.
Leaving there at 8.10 we arrived at the Junction, where we
said good-by to many of our friends and waited for the 10.20
train which was to stop and attach our baggage-car and Pull-
man, which were waiting there for us. Our Pullman car was
the best on the road ; it was the President's, and was kindly
placed at our disposal by Mr. Pullman. Its name was the
Rhode Island. Our berths were portioned out by lot, and
we had No. n, which we soon turned into, and with the ex-
ception of being waked up at Philadelphia by some fellows
who boarded the train there, passed a quiet night.

JUNE 22, FRIDAY.

We all awoke early, as many of us had not seen the Horse
Shoe curve, and those who had were almost as anxious to see
it again. Reached Pittsburg at two o'clock and took dinner.
Then going over the Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago
Railroad through Ohio, nothing of interest occurred till we
reached Alliance. We had now for the most part assumed
our blue shirts and uniform costumes, which attracted the at-
tention of the natives of that rustic town. One of their num-
ber, with more valor than discretion, singling out General

4

Karge as the leader of the party, approached him, and in the
mildest tones asked, " Is this a travelling base-ball club, sir?"
He was immediately squelched by the stentorian tones of
the General, as he replied, "No, sir; this is a circus!" and
the General was not far from right, for the whole company
afterward proved a source of entertainment to many a native

of the far West.

JUNE 23, SATURDAY.

We arrived early this morning in Chicago, where we were
met at the depot by Mr. Hathaway, of the Grand Pacific
Hotel, who kindly invited us to partake of a very elegant
breakfast given as a compliment to our party. We took our
chronometer to the Douglass Observatory and compared it
with the standard there, and at 12.30 met the rest of the
party (who had separated to visit various points of interest
in the city) at the Chicago and Alton depot. We took pos-
session of the palace-car " Baltic," and giving three cheers
and a rocket for our friends in Chicago, who had gathered
at the depot to see us off, we started on our long prairie
ride. At twelve o'clock in the evening, as we were approach-
ing the bridge at Louisiana, across the Mississippi, a number
of us were enjoying the moonlight in the engine-cab, when
we saw a sight which curdled our blood. A trackman who
had just been paid off was going home intoxicated, and had
lain down on the track to sleep. Before we could say a word
we were on and over him. We stopped, went back, and
found his body, and did what we could for him, but to no
avail ; so we left him at a section-house to die.

JUNE 24, SUNDAY.

The first rays of light found us rolling along the muddy
bottom of the Missouri. The unanimous verdict concern-
ing our breakfast at Lexington Junction was that it was " very
poor." Soon after leaving this place we encountered a novel
experience in railroading. We plunged in water up to the
top of the wheels, and moved along at a snail's pace for about
a mile and a half, constantly expecting to be stopped by the
fires being put out in the engine. We came into Kansas City
two hours late. Here we found, to our astonishment, that
our baggage-car would not fit the rails of the Kansas Pacific
Road, and our whole party had to turn in and transfer our

5

baggage from one car to another. We did this in the short
space of twenty minutes, though we had upwards of five
thousand pounds to move. This gave quite a reputation to
our " tender-foot " party for muscle and energy. The most
of the afternoon we spent in singing Moody and Sankey's
hymns, with Dunning as leader of the choir.

JUNE 25, MONDAY.

We awoke to find ourselves rolling out toward the plains.
We spent the morning in the baggage-car, where some of us
tried our marksmanship on the antelope we passed ; none of
them, however, suffered. About noon we passed a small sta-
tion called First View, one hundred and sixty miles from
Pike's Peak, and as an illustration of the clearness of the at-
mosphere, we would mention the fact that the tip of the
snow-capped mountain was just in sight over the rolling
prairies. We reached Denver at six in the evening, and after
investigating the town, took supper at Charpiot's Restaurant,

"the Delmonico (?).of the West."

JUNE 26, TUESDAY.

We pitched our camp a half mile west of Denver, and
commenced assorting our baggage for our proposed trip in
Colorado. This was our first regular camp and our first
experience under military discipline. The camp was called
" Camp Lynch," because we discovered that three horse-
thieves had been lynched there some years before.

JUNE 27, WEDNESDAY.

We spent all day in camp selecting horses. As the animals
from which the party were to make a selection were Indian
ponies, lately captured from the Sioux tribe, the efforts on the
part of some of the members of the party to ride them caused
considerable amusement, and their motions were more gro-
tesque than graceful.

JUNE 28, THURSDAY.

At four in the afternoon, everything being in readiness, we
broke camp ; and falling into proper marching order, we
passed through the city to the astonishment of its peaceful
inhabitants, who flocked out to see the warlike display. We
took up our line of march along the South Fork of the Platte
River, and camped four miles out of the city on its banks.
Dulles and Dunning mounted guard for the night.

JUNE 29, FRIDAY.

Continuing on in the same line southward, after passing
Littleton, we turned to the left along Plum Creek for thirteen
miles, and then camped at Van Wormer's ranche. Here the
party indulged in the home luxuries of milk and eggs to an
enormous extent.

JUNE 30, SATURDAY.

When we left the camp this morning we received the
cheering news that military discipline was at an end, and that
each one might direct his horse where his inclination led him,
provided he came to the appointed rendezvous at night.
Leaving the main party, we struck out straight across the
foot-hills for Castle Rock, so named from a square rock,
about 90 feet high, on the top of a mountain overlooking the
railroad station. As we rode into the village we saw a sign
with the enticing words, " Strawberries and ice-cream," on it,
and forthwith prepared ourselves to enjoy them. But on a
closer inspection of the aforesaid sign, we found printed be-
low, in microscopic characters, " On the 4th "; so we had to
be satisfied with some sour strawberries and some very dry
ginger-snaps. We went on about eight miles further to Lev-
erson's ranche, the appointed meeting-place for the night.

Here we waited for the rest of the party, who came strag-
gling in one by one, and finally Lynde brought the startling
information that the " commissary department" had broken
down six miles back ; and as the housekeeper was not pre-
pared for the reception of sixteen hungry troopers, the chance
of our getting a supper seemed to be rather slight. Finally,
not caring to have us starve, she gave us freely of what she
had in large store, viz., milk and biscuits. She also very
kindly offered us for sleeping purposes the only empty room
she had in the small log cabin. Taking our saddles for pillows,
and fully booted and spurred, we laid down ; but not to
peaceful slumbers.

JULY i, SUNDAY.

Sabbath morning was spent in anxiously awaiting the ar-
rival of the wagons. They finally reached us at 12 M. All
hands then set to work to prepare dinner, which was to
answer for two meals. We enjoyed this meal more than any
that we had since starting out. The afternoon was spent

quietly in camp ; the duties of correspondence were faithfully
attended to ; and the kind hospitality of Dr. Leverson was
very refreshing and fully appreciated.

JULY 2, MONDAY.

After leaving- Leverson's ranche we soon reached Lark-
spur, and, turning to the right, passed across the plains and
came to Lake Divide, which is on the summit of the transverse
range of hills separating the Platte River from the Arkansas
River. The elevation is 7,554 feet. Five miles from the lake
we came to Monument, and encamped about a mile fur-
ther on, near the road. We took a tramp up the Little Giant
mountain, from which we had a beautiful view of Pike's
Peak and the Front Range. These sights were new and strange,
and they filled us with admiration for the sublime nature we
were brought in such close contact with. On our road up
and on the return we passed through long, beautiful meadows
with high eroded columns of sandstone, which seemed very
grand. The whole seemed to us rather more like an en-
chanted land than a reality.

JULY 3, TUESDAY.

Starting early in the morning, and passing through Edger-
ton, we skirted along the eastern edge of Monument Park.
We reached Colorado Springs at twelve o'clock, having been
on the road four days and a half, and having ridden seventy-
five miles. After a good dinner we set out again to find
our party, and rode over to Glen Eyre, which was full of
natural wonders new to us, in its curiously upturned strata.
Not finding them there, we went to the Garden of the
gods, where the wagons were already drawn up, and a per-
manent camp formed near the Gateway.

JULY 4, WEDNESDAY.

"The members of the various departments represented in the
expedition now set to work in real earnest; and we com-
menced our part by establishing the height of a base at
the Beebee House in Manitou Springs for the purpose of
measuring Pike's Peak. This was finished by noon ; and M.
choosing the lower station, L. started, after dinner, to climb
the mountain, and reached the Lake House in the evening
after some adventures not worth noting.

8

JULY 5, THURSDAY.

L. started early for the summit, having- agreed with M. to
carry on simultaneous observations from 9.30 to 10.30 A.M.
This was accomplished, and our first attempt at measuring
these mountains will be seen to have been successful and very
encouraging. The mountain was descended with ease, and
the camp reached by evening. The incidents of the climb
were so like those of other parties performing the same feat,
that they are hardly worth repetition.

JULY 6, FRIDAY.

In order that we might ascertain the elevation of our base
at the Beebee House, a series of observations was conducted
in the morning between L. at that place and M. at the Colo-
rado Springs Railroad depot. The afternoon was spent ar-
ranging our instruments in the camp.

JULY 7, SATURDAY.

We spent the day visiting the Springs and sampling them
all. They were chiefly soda, iron, and magnesia. We took
the temperature of the various springs, and found it to vary

from 58° to 68° F.

JULY 8, SUNDAY.

We spent most of the day dodging the rain, as it poured
hard all the time. Attended the only Episcopal service

which was held in the morning.

JULY 9, MONDAY.

This morning we left the main party in their camp and went
on ahead in order to be able to prosecute our work. Leav-
ing Manitou at 9.30 we commenced our climb over the Front
Range by the way of the Ute Pass. The scenery was very
beautiful, and was enjoyed as much as possible as we hurried
along on our ponies in light travelling order. At two o'clock
we reached " Silver Spring Ranche," having passed a very
pretentious hotel called the " Green Mountain House," where
we were informed by the landlady that she " had quit keep-
ing stoppers." The proprietor of the Silver Spring Ranche
was the far-famed Dr. Johnson, and he treated us very nicely.
After dinner we rode fifteen miles farther on to Florissant,
where we were entertained in royal style by the stately host
of the place, Judge Castello. This old place was crowded
with relics of the chase and curiosities of all sorts. There

was an old Indian fort directly back of the house ; it had a
circular wall and several outworks. We examined them all
carefully, and in the evening the Judge regaled us with
stories about old times, and his encounter with the Indians.
(We have since learned of the death of our good old friend,
with regret.)

JULY 10, TUESDAY.

Four miles from Florissant we crossed the north branch of
the South Fork of the Platte River. From here for seven
miles our road lay through a beautiful district leading to
South Park — high granite walls and immense boulders lying
on either side of the way. Coming to Wilkinson's ranche
we were refused water for our horses and had to ride on.
After passing over a small divide we saw the broad expanse
of South Park some hundreds of feet below, stretched out
like a large map, dotted here and there with a ranche, and
the long Platte River shining like a silver line throughout
its entire length. While crossing this open piece of prairie
to what appeared to be the nearest ranche, we saw a most
wonderful display of clouds. The heavy cumulus masses rose
up higher and higher till they rolled over one bank after
another in great confusion and presented a most imposing
sight. Reaching the ranche, we approached the house, hop-
ing to get some water, but the door was slammed in our faces
by a wrathful female, who screamed out that she " didn't have
no water for stoppers." Our feelings at such a reception can
be imagined better than expressed. We next went over to
Hartsell's, where we at last found what we wanted, after
having come for it nineteen miles over a very hot road. But
here was another difficulty ; a " round-up" was in progress,
and all available quarters were occupied, so we had to urge
our way on again. A round-up is the technical term out
here tor a gathering of all the cattle on the park, for the pur-
pose of branding the calves and counting the herds. This is
held -every year. Large numbers of cattle were already
there, and many more were to come. This was the favorite
spot for this purpose, as water and grass are very plenty.
Finally we reached Clark's, well tired out and rejoiced at the
prospect of a rest. We put our horses up, and went off to
take a look at the neighborhood, which we found very pleasant.
5

10

In the evening we experimented practically on the benefits
and efficacy of the hot sulphur spring near the house, and
were delighted. Its temperature was 150° F.

JULY ii, WEDNESDAY.

Leaving Clark's, we soon came to a division in the road,
which, a sign told us, was the way to the much-sought-for San
Juan country. The road looked well worn. We had frequent-
ly passed, since leaving Colorado Springs, the teams of travel-
lers who were slowly going to and from that Mecca of the
gold-hunter. We reached Fairplay at eleven ; and M. staying
on the site of an old building whose elevation was known, L.
went on to Alma in order to make a station at that place, pre-
paratory to measuring several mountains in that region. This
work occupied the rest of the day. The town of Alma is
considered the highest mountain town in the State, being,
according to our measurement, 10,381.5 feet at the St. Nich-
olas Hotel. Our barometer stood at 20.8 inches, with an
average temperature of 72° F. Fairplay is noted for its gulch-
mining interests, and the hillsides are tunnelled for miles in all
directions by the eager miners. We noticed here the cheer-
ful faces of many Chinamen hard at work. The process
is to empty the gold-bearing earth into long sluices, through
which runs a rapid stream of water strong enough to carry
large boulders, but not powerful enough to wash away the
gold, which sinks to the bottom, where it is caught by the
mercury behind the riffle-bars, which- are placed at intervals
transversely to the current. This amalgam is taken out
and the gold obtained by volatilizing the mercury. The
"wash," as it is called, averages here $11 a day per man.

JULY 12, THURSDAY.

We made corresponding observations in the morning until
nine o'clock, when L. started for Mount Lincoln, having pre-
viously procured a horse and guide. M. removed his instru-
ment to th'e spot that had been left by L., and, as agreed
upon, continued observations there. On the road up Mount
Lincoln, on the sides of Mount Bross, L. visited some mines
rich in silver ore. He reached the top of Mount Bross at
10.30, made observations for half an hour, and then con-
tinued on the road up Mount Lincoln, the summit of which

II

was reached at 12. Here observations were made; and after
taking dinner at some miners' quarters near the top, he com-
menced the descent. Before reaching the bottom, how-
ever, he was quite overcome by the " mountain fever," as it is
called there. It is a mild form of typhoid fever, and very
harmless if taken care of in time.

JULY 13, FRIDAY.

M. started at 7.30 A.M. for Mount Quandary with the horse
and guide, L. remaining in Alma to make corresponding ob-
servations, as he felt much better to-day. M. rode up to the
entrance of the once famous Montgomery Gulch (where so
many thousands of dollars were sunk in 1863, when Mont-
gomery was the largest town in the State ; now nothing re-
mains but the ruins of the place). Thence going to the summit
of the Hoosier Pass, he turned to the left, and after a very
hard and rough climb he reached the top at 12.30, where ob-
servations were made. An interesting monument was found
on the summit, containing a board, on which was carved,
" Kelsey and Tom Campbell, July, 1873." Thence he returned
to Alma, reaching it at 6 P.M.

JULY 14, SATURDAY.

M. started to measure Mount Silverheels, leaving L. below.
This mountain is a prominent point on the Park Range,
affording a good view of the Platte River and South Park.
This would be a fine place for transit observation if it
were not for the iron present in the mountain, which ren-
dered a small compass completely useless. In the evening the
town was enlivened by a horse-race in the streets. All the
gambling saloons were open (and it seemed as if almost every
other house was one), and the drinking and carousing were
carried on till late. Alma has one of the largest hydraulic
mines and reduction mills in the State. The principle of
these mines is the same as the gulch mines, except that the
source of the power is a strong head of water delivered from
a large nozzle against the bank of earth, which it undermines
and makes short work with.

JULY 15, SUNDAY.

The scenes of the night before were continued all day.
Everything went on as usual, except where mines had closed
for a wash-up. Sunday is a day for general dissipation,

12

and is spent by the miners in the wildest sorts of vice.
Churches are unknown, and there is nothing to remind any
one that it is not a week-day. M. went to Fairplay, as we had
heard that Osborn was there, with a message from the main
party. He came back to say that they intended to go to the
Arkansas Valley, and wanted us to come with them. In the
evening two men were shot in front of the hotel, in a little
row that took place.

JULY 16, MONDAY.

We left Alma at 9 A.M., and found McPherson at Fairplay.
We proceeded to the salt works, twenty miles south, where
we got our dinner. The rides over the prairie land had a
general sameness, which became very tiresome. These salt
works are now abandoned as unprofitable. Leaving here,
we started in full pursuit of the party, who we learned had
spent Sunday here, and had just gone on. This part of the
day's journey was very pleasant, as the Trout Creek Valley
is quite a pretty place. We overtook the party just as they
were going into camp in the Arkansas Valley, after a ride of
sixty miles, the longest as yet made on the trip.

JULY 17, TUESDAY.

M. rode down the valley of the Arkansas six miles to Hele-
na, the height of which place was known, and prepared to
make corresponding observations ; while L. set off early for
Mount Princeton, a very beautiful and symmetric mountain
immediately to the west of our camp. L. found no particular
difficulty until within 1,500 feet of the top, when his only
way lay over a bed of debris such as he had never experienced
before ; the size of the boulders being such that nothing but
the hardest sort of crawling would answer. The summit was,
however, reached at 12.30 P.M., and several patriotic demon-
strations gone through with. A large monument, six feet
high by three in diameter, was built, in the centre of which a
stick, on which the circumstances were written, was de-
posited and left as a memento. The scene from this point
of view was simply indescribable; the broad valley of the
Arkansas spreading immediately below, and the Sa watch
Mountains stretching away on either side. It rivals in beauty
the scene from Mount Lincoln. It does not combine such an

13

extent of prairie with great mountain regions as does Pike's
Peak, but for pure mountain scenery it is very grand. L. re-
turned to camp in the evening to find all the rest gone out
fishing, as the rumors of the excellent trout to be found in
the neighboring streams were not to be disregarded until
verified by even the most unscientifically inclined; 101 of
the speckled beauties were caught. M. caught three that
weighed nine pounds, one of them weighing three and a half
pounds. The principal trouble seemed to be the scarcity of
bait, as there was more trouble catching grasshoppers than
fish. Every one had fish for supper, and was happy.

JULY 18, WEDNESDAY.

Leaving camp at 9 A.M., we went on ten miles to River-
side, where we met Scott, Speir, and Osborn, who had left the
camp some days before on a fossil hunt. At this part of the
ride we entered the narrow part of the valley. The rocky
gorge down which the foaming river ran presented many
varied and picturesque aspects. We soon reached Granite,
another lifeless town. Getting our dinner there, we turned
to the left to visit the Twin Lake region. On our way up we
forded Lake Creek, where the water reached our horses'
flanks. At the Lakes we found a very primitive hotel with
cotton cloth partitions between the rooms, and a roof made
of the tins of tomato cans ; but it covered a very obliging
and good-hearted hostess, who did all in her power to make
it pleasant for us. These lakes lie at the foot of Mount
Elbert, and each of them covers about 200 acres. They are
plentifully supplied with an excellent variety of mountain
trout, on which we tried our skill with some success.

JULY 19, THURSDAY.

The various members of the party came straggling into
this camp during the day, and it was spent in various ways,
hunting and fishing. A council was held, at which it was
decided that General Karge, with the Palaeontologists, and
ourselves, should go to Fort Bridger in Wyoming Territory ;
the Palaeontologists to busy themselves in the neighboring
bad lands, and we to go into the Uintah Mountains for the
purpose of doing original topographical work.

H

JULY 20, FRIDAY.

Accompanied by Osborn, we left in the morning, and re-
traced our way to Granite. Leaving after dinner we fol-
lowed the Hayden trail straight over the mountains. After
a very rough ride, in which we came near losing our way
from the scarcity of trail-marks, we finally emerged into the
trail leading over the Weston Pass. Following this down the
mountain, we soon were out on the level tract of South Park
on our way for Fairplay. We reached there at 9 P.M., and,
much to our surprise, found that our afternoon ride had been
thirty-eight miles instead of eighteen, as we had expected.

JULY 21, SATURDAY.

We travelled over the now familiar road between Fairplay
and Alma, and just before we came to Hoosier Pass we were
overtaken by a worn-out and dilapidated-looking individual
who entertained us by his interesting reminiscences of fron-
tier life. He led us over Fremont's trail of 1853, instead of
the regular pass road, and made the trip to Breckenridge
very pleasant by his company. Here we discovered that
our fellow-traveller was the celebrated " Dick Allen," of the
Fairplay Sentinel. After leaving the summit of the pass we
descended into the valley of the Blue River, which we fol-
lowed to the little town of Breckenridge, twenty-six miles from
Fairplay. The first thing we saw was the grim face of Gen.
Logan on the piazza, where he was surrounded by a crowd
of admirers. Judge Silverthorn, who was the owner of this
hotel, said that the house was full, but if we could sleep in
the " corral" we might stay. We examined it and accepted
the offer. It was in the upper story of the establishment,
under the roof. While we were ridding ourselves of our
numerous packages, the Judge disappeared. We found on
going down that a drunken fellow had been behaving un-
seemly in the street, and that our little shrivelled-up judicial
authority had made out a warrant, served it himself, and seiz-
ing the prisoner by the back of the neck, had kicked him up
the side of a hill to the calaboose, although he had complained
of being very ill a few minutes before. This little affair gave
rise to a trial, which of course we attended. Judge Rieland
read from a large and formidable-looking document, " Gibbs,

15

you are charged with disturbing the peace." (Aside) " I'm
in a hurry, so plead guilty. If you take one of them lawyer
fellows, I'll stick you." Gibbs asked how much the fine was,
and the Judge announced very formally that he should be
fined $1.50 and costs. Whereupon Gibbs asked, in tones
that made several." visitors" look around to see where the
door was, " Where's my revolver?" He only wanted to
pawn it, however. After this the court adjourned for drinks
all around.

In the afternoon we went to see a wash-up in one of the
neighboring gulch mines. Dick Allen went with us and ex-
plained the modus operandi. They took out $2800 for 160
days' work. When we returned home we found that there
were six of us compelled to sleep in the seven-by-nine corral
— the Judge, Dick Allen, we three, and a native hoosier.

JULY 22, SUNDAY.

We were awakened early this morning by Dick Allen
saying, " I can't eat my breakfast until I have had six cock-
tails, and it's about time to commence ; so come on, boys."
We have spent some very queer days out here, but this beats
them all. To get out of the reach of the noise was im-
possible, and you might think that there was a den of wild
animals being fed, or something worse. We heartily recom-
mend Breckenridge as being the most fiendish place we ever
wish to see. We were forced to spend the morning and
afternoon in the company of men whose language was vile,
and whose actions were tinged with a shade of crime that
shocked and hurt our senses ; never did anything so bes-
tial and so unworthy even a mention by manly lips happen
t before our eyes. In the morning there was a series of
dog-fights. A ring of yelling demoniacs was gathered
around the two poor curs. Upon the success or defeat of
one or the other large sums of gold-dust were freely wa-
gered. The old Judge innocently remarked that " the men
would soon commence," and sure enough they did com-
mence very quick, quarrelling about the slightest thing, and
fighting like devils while their breath lasted, which, on
account of the rarity of the air at this altitude, was not more
than ten minutes. Finally Breckenridge seemed satisfied,

i6

and grew quiet outside in the streets, but the men only ad-
journed to the saloons (almost every other house was one),
where their carousing was kept up till late in the night. The
evening being very cool, a fire was kindled in the parlor,
around which a good many of the " old cases" were gathered,
and the amusing stories of frontier and prairie experience
served to pass away the hours till bedtime.

JULY 23, MONDAY.

Our friends gathered to see us off. Dick gave us a " send-
off" in the way of a cock-tail, as his breakfast-time had not
yet come. We were off at seven, and had a delightful ride
for ten miles in the cool morning, down the valley of the Blue
River. When we came to the Snake Valley, we rode up that
stream ten more miles, through a most glorious piece of
woodland scenery. We found we were in the neighborhood
of Montezuma, and halted at the hotel for our dinner, which
turned out to be a regular New York feast — mock-turtle
soup, steak with mushrooms, etc. This fact, as well as the
presence of New York papers, Harper s Weekly and Monthly \
and the genteel appearance of our host, led us to make in-
quiries, whereupon he was recognized by two of us as one of
those voluntary exiles from society, where he once moved
with honor. Leaving at one o'clock, and riding five miles
further up, we came to the head-waters of the Snake River
at timber line, and saw our trail ahead, stretched along the
precipitous side of the mountain which forms the head of the
valley. Before and above us, almost 3000 feet, lay the ridge
of the Argentine Pass, 13,100 feet in elevation, the highest
wagon-road in the United States. After a long, slow ride,
we reached the top, going sometimes over snowbanks (for it
had not entirely disappeared here yet), sometimes finding
barely walking room for our horses. From the summit the
scene was perfectly grand. Here we stopped for our lunch,
which we had in our saddle-bags, and rested our horses, while
we enjoyed the scenery. A further ride of eight miles
brought us to the hillside which seems to overhang George-
town. This is a beautifully situated place, at the head of a
valley surrounded by mountains on three sides. We stopped

17

at the Barton House, and received here the news of the great
railroad riots in Pittsburg.

JULY 24, TUESDAY.

Before breakfast M. carried a series of levels from the depot
of the Clear Creek Railroad up to the hotel, while L. com-
pared the three barometers, as we were to leave an aneroid
here with Osborn, and take the two mercurials respectively
to Gray and Evans Peaks. M. started for Gray and found
a good road to the top. This mountain is visited by many
excursionists, being very accessible, and also being one of the
highest in the range. L. took the road up Mount Evans, but
soon reached a riding limit, and had to climb some 1500 feet
before reaching the top. By means of a "powerful telescope
he found that both observers were at work at the same time,
which was very satisfactory. Storms of hail, snow, and rain
Avere experienced by both, and the rain continued the rest
of the day. Our canvas coats did good service on this occa-
sion. After our return to Georgetown, and a little supper,
we saddled our own horses (which were perfectly fresh, as we
had left them here all day to rest) and started down the val-
ley in the rain. We were already wet, and did not care much
for a little more, as we wanted to gain on time and space.
We raced all the way to Idaho Springs, making the fourteen
miles in an hour and a quarter. We went to the Beebee
House, which is kept by Mr. Beebee, who is not, however, as
good at it as his wife in Manitou Springs. We were treated
very nicely though ; had a cottage to ourselves, a wood fire,
a good supper, and luxuriated in grand style.

JULY 25, WEDNESDAY.

We went to the Springs before breakfast, and enjoyed a
warm soda bath very much. Leaving about nine o'clock we
rode down part of the canon, then turning to the right we
went over St. George's Hill, and after this one hill was suc-
ceeded by another as we descended the foot-slopes of the
mountains to the plains. .We reached Mount Vernon at 1.30,
where we had such an objectionable dinner set before us that
its mere appearance disgusted us, and we rode on. It seemed
good once more to be on the plains, after our four weeks in
the mountains. Osborn left us here to see Prof. Lakes, at

18

Morrison ; while we, seeing Denver sixteen miles off, started
for it at headlong speed. We reached the Grand Central
Hotel in two hours and a quarter. Then we went to Paul
Graham's, where our clean clothes were stored, and when
we made our appearance at the hotel, dressed like white men
once more, the clerk failed to recognize us — and he was not to
blame. After having a good supper we went to the post-
office, where we found a bundle of letters and papers which
were eagerly investigated, and the evening spent in reading
up the news. Osborn came in at eight P.M.

JULY 26, THURSDAY.

We were up early and went to the store to sort out and
pack our various boxes. The morning was spent at this
work, and everything was done by noon. We shipped the
rest of the provisions to Dr. Brackett, at Fairplay, and upon
reaching the hotel found General Karge with the rest of the
party. We spent the afternoon resting and talking with the
party who had just come in, about their ride across South

Park.

JULY 27, FRIDAY.

The day was spent in packing our things up and getting
them down to the depot, and in making arrangements for our
trip northward on the morrow. We had seen enough of
Denver, and wanted to be off.

JULY 28, SATURDAY.

Ther General had us all up by five o'clock this morning, and
after breakfast we started for the depot with our horses.
Then from 7 till 12.30 we rode over one of the dryest and
warmest stretches of country that can be imagined. Reach-
ing Cheyenne we fed our horses and exercised them, and
then shipped them for Fort Bridger. We then took posses-
sion of our palace-car " Summit" and boarded for one day at
the Interocean Hotel, which treated us very fairly. We had
choice bits of game, etc., which were eaten with much rel-
ish. The train at three P.M. had three companies of infantry
bound eastward to quiet the riots. Cheyenne, it may be noted,
is famous for its gambling-saloons and general dissipation.

JULY 29, SUNDAY.

Most of us went to hear the Presbyterian preacher. He
was an old Princeton man, and of course was very much

19

interested in us. We strolled around the town and asked
some questions. The city is in the open plain, without a
shade-tree or irrigating ditch, It is particularly quiet now,
we were told, as the Black Hills fever had drawn off the
scum of the population. At 1.30 we were off for Fort Bridger,
and the ride proved very much more agreeable than the
prairie scenery, as some hills were always in sight, although
one would never think that he was crossing the Rocky
Mountains, even when at Sherman, the summit of the Chey-
enne Pass. We passed through a great many snow-sheds
during the day, reached Laramie at six, and passed the fort
of the same name, about two miles before reaching the town.
Laramie seemed to us one of the nicest little plain cities we
had yet seen. We took supper further on at Rock Stream
station.

JULY 30, MONDAY.

We took an early breakfast at Green River station. The
scenery, as we passed on from this point, was all new to us
and was very grand. The Green River canon is a pictur-
esque place from the beauty and extent of its' erosion, and we
spent the short time we had to see it on the platforms of our
car enjoying it. We soon turned out of the eroded valley
and went into the " bad land" district This was just as in-
teresting in another way, for everything seemed dead now ;
not the slightest signs of life, and the fantastic shapes round-
ed out from the rock on all sides of us seemed the monu-
ments of one vast burying-ground. We reached Carter's
station at 10.30. and found our horses there, pretty stiff and
thin. We at once took them out to graze and water. Scott
was sick, and we left him in charge of the station-keeper's
wife, while we rode over to the Fort. After a ten-mile canter
we turned the corner of a butte, and the beautiful valley lay
before us. The situation seems to be well chosen ; the Fort is
well laid out, and there is an abundant supply of both water
and wood in the valley. We arrived at 2 P.M. and went
to Rickard's Hotel. General Karge had us all fixed up as
soon as possible, and we set out in a body to pay our re-
spects to the dignitaries of the place. We found General
Flint, the commander, and Judge Carter very pleasant and
agreeable persons. They both expressed a willingness to do

20

all they could to further our plans. Our reception was ex-
ceedingly hospitable. The Fourth Infantry band gave us a
serenade in the evening, a compliment which we appreciated
very highly. Captain Merriman, Lieutenants Brown, Scott,
and Adjutant True called in the evening.

JULY 31, TUESDAY.

Speir, Osborn, and Lynde went to Bridger Butte with Mr.
Rickard. Potter went over to the station. Scott still un-
well. M. looking up guides, and General Karge and L.
making other arrangements. We all attended the open-air
concert in the evening, which we found quite a pleasant fea-
ture. There was also an inspection in the morning, but as
there were only sixteen soldiers out it was not much of an

affair.

AUGUST i, WEDNESDAY.

The " bone-pickers," as we called the rest of our party r
were very busy packing up their own peculiar part of the
baggage and getting ready for a start. We found a guide
by the name of Taylor for them. They got off about i P.M.,
and left us alone to work for ourselves. We called on Gen.
Flint in the evening, and were entertained by his charming
family.

AUGUST 2, THURSDAY.

Mr. Hamilton brought us in a guide this morning. We
liked his looks very much. He has the very prepossessing
name of " Santa Anna Joe" (or Joe Oreda), and is a Mexican
of short and muscular build. We three selected our stock of
utensils for camp life, and then packed everything with our
instruments on two mules, which were loaned us by the
commissary department. Finally everything was on board,
and L. and Joe started for the St. Louis Mills, twent}T miles
to the south, while M. remained at the Fort. We now com-
menced our chain of observations from here to the mountains.
The first were made this evening between these two points.

AUGUST 3, FRIDAY.

Observations Avere also made this morning by both of usr
M. starting on after them for the St. Louis Mills. L. and
Joe in the meantime amused themselves by going shooting.
Came back with some birds and a jack-rabbit. When M. ar-

21

rived we had our first game dinner. L. and Joe then started
on again for Gilbert's Meadow. Went up the valley (which
was rather thickly wooded) for three miles to Steel's Mills,
then, turning to the left, crossed the West Branch of Smith's
Fork, then three miles further on up a hill and through
the woods till they came out in a beautiful open meadow,
where the camp was pitched in a splendid grove of pine-trees
near a little brook in the southwest corner. Observations
were made at six, and then, while L. was fixing camp and
waiting for M., Joe went out and pretty soon a rifle-shot was
heard ; then all was quiet, until Joe walked in a little later
with a deer's heart and liver. M. came soon after, and we
had the liver for supper, which we found delicious. We then
built a good fire, and after rolling up in our blankets with
our feet towards it, went to sleep lulled by the music of the
pines. Occasionally a wolf or an owl gave variety to the
dulcet tones.

AUGUST 4, SATURDAY.

We did not sleep much last night on account of the cold.
We saw some deer, but they ran away before we got a
chance at them. We were paid, however, in a moment for
our disappointment, as two elk appeared and came down
for water, and we shot both ; one got away, as he was only
wounded. After breakfast Joe went back to Bridger with
some instructions, and left us to take care of the elk and
the deer. We sent a quarter of the deer to General Flint by
him. Our knives were rather dull, and we spent the morn-
ing cutting the two animals up. Then came a difficulty ; we
could not get the mule within fifty feet of any blood, and
when we came near him with bloody hands he would rear
and kick like all possessed ; so we had hard work to get the
deer on him ; then we took him back to camp and brought
out Joe's old black horse, which stood it better. After quar-
tering our elk we found we could only manage one quarter
between us, and even then it was not much fun. We carried
this back and then got our dinner. Then we set about ar-
ranging our camp. By evening all was completed, and we
sat down to a comfortable supper of venison. We saw more
deer, but were too tired to go after them.

22

AUGUST 5, SUNDAY

The day was spent in reading, writing-, sleeping, and eat-
ing in due proportions. We found our camp a delightful
spot, and looked forward with much enjoyment to the few
weeks we were to spend here. Just at evening, though, we
experienced some trouble from the mosquitoes. We thought
we were up too high for these pesky little fellows, but found
that they would crawl under the leaves when it was cold,
and thus save themselves for another time. We experienced
some difficulty in our first attempts at bread-making. We
also found that the ink we had with us was copying ink, and
very thick at that, so we could not persuade our letters to
dry at all.

AUGUST 6, MONDAY.

Joe and M. set out to climb Gilbert's Peak (we had been
told we could easily), as it only seemed about six miles ofL
They saw, when they reached the ridge bordering the East
Branch of Smith's Fork, that this valley alone was about a
thousand feet deep, eight miles wide, and full of little wood-
ed moraines ; they then concluded that the best thing would
be to move our camp nearer the mountains. So they looked
for another camping place. Going along the ridge they
came to the head-waters of the West Branch, and there found
a very nice place, where they made observations and re-
turned. L. made corresponding observations at the camp.
Joe captured the bread-making secret this evening, succeed-
ing finely.

AUGUST 7, TUESDAY.

We began to pack early this morning, and got off at eight
o'clock. We followed the ridge again, and reached the
chosen place at twelve. We spent the afternoon .getting
things to rights. We used the elk skin for a bed ; found
it very nice and soft, but it had the fault of letting us out
of the tent at [the bottom. For an hour or two the mos-
quitoes were fearfully thick. Our tent is made by supporting
a wagon-cover over a ridge-pole, which was driven into a
tree at one end and supported by a stake driven into the
ground at the other. A blanket is drawn across one end and
the other left open toward the camp-fire. Numerous pegs
made of hard wood were driven into the softer pine-trees and

23

served as supports for our various articles. We have very
little trouble with our camp-fire. A few feet behind us there
is an unlimited supply of old pine stumps, which can be cut
away with a few skilful strokes of an axe, and when one is
set on the camp-fire, after supper is over, it gives a splendid
heat and light all night.

AUGUST 8, WEDNESDAY.

Last night it was fearfully cold ; our little stream being cov-
ered with a two-inch coat of ice. We devoted the whole morn-
ing to laying out a base-line. Having chosen two open places
on the long ridge which we had come over as the position for
it, we levelled our stakes by the transit, and measured both
by steel tape and levelling-rod (the transit having stadia wires
for this purpose). We were pleased with the results, as we
came within -f$ of an inch. We were forced to cut a line
through a small strip of timber which separated our two open
plateaus. These places were almost on a level, and were not
only easily seen from all the mountains of the valley, but were
beautifully marked out for us by the ring of open ground
around each station. They were so plain that missing them
was impossible. In the afternoon we fixed our station, No. 3,
on the ridge back of the camp, on the other side of the West
Branch, and thus closed our first triangle. Held a consulta-
tion in the evening, and decided on the plan of going up one
side of the valley of the East Branch, and after we had gone
as far as we could, to change our camp to the middle of the
valley, and come down on the other side. We still mourn the
mosquitoes.

AUGUST 9, THURSDAY.

M. and Joe set off with the mules up the ridge. They
fixed stations Nos. 4 and 5, measuring both the triangles and
the barometric height. They met an Indian, who told them
that there were plenty of Shoshones, Snakes, and Bannocks
in this part of the country, hunting and setting the woods on
fire. L. started the meteorological journal to-day, making ob-
servations every fifteen minutes. We had broiled grouse for
supper.

AUGUST 10, FRIDAY.

The same programme was followed to-day. M. and Joe
set off up the ridge and fixed Nos. 6 and 7. L. continued the

24

meteorological record every fifteen minutes during the day.
We killed a two-year old buck, and took him home to camp.
This addition to our store of meat proved very acceptable,
as we had brought but a small portion of our bountiful sup-
ply from the other camp. The night was warm and the mos
quitoes stayed late.

AUGUST ii, SATURDAY.

L. and Joe started across the valley to fix two stations on
the other side (Nos. 9 and 10), in which they succeeded, but
found the road very rough. They made observations for a
new camp in the middle of the valley. M. made corre-
sponding observations in the camp. The rainy season has
commenced, and we expect a drenching every day. L. found
plenty of rain and snow on the ridge while working there.

AUGUST 12, SUNDAY.

We turned out slowly this A.M., and as we thought that all
our Indian friends had left us to go across the range, we left
our camp to take care of itself, and started for Steel's Mills,
a point half-way between the St. Louis Mills and Gilbert's
Meadow. This was on the West Branch, so we followed it
down. We found an old Indian trail and followed it till we
came to a good road, which brought us, after a three miles'
ride, to the Mill. We found Dick Steel there with about eight
or ten men (as many more having gone off hunting and fishing).
The scenes of the day were quite varied. We all sat around
the camp-fire and heard stories, until the subject of shooting
came up, when Joe was hauled out for exhibition. (He is, by
the way, an excellent shot.) He wanted to shoot for ten dollars
a side for each shot with the " old hunter," who was provid-
ing the camp with meat, but the old fellow was not at all anx-
ious for fame, as Joe's powers had been known there for some
years. After dinner they divided into two knots, to play
poker. We, of course, watched the crowd Joe was in, and
saw the fellow walk off with five dollars of their money by
supper-time. They were nearly short of food, so we had the
usual camp diet — venison, bread, coffee, and stewed dried cur-
rants for both meals. Starting at six we got back to our camp
at eight, and found everything as we left it.

25 •

AUGUST 13, MONDAY.

We moved camp to-day, so we were all up bright and early.
Before we went M. went to No. i, and we observed the barom-
eters to get the height of our base-line. Then M. and Joe
started for the new camp with the mules and our utensils,
while L. remained in the old camp to make another series of
observations. L. then went over, and the new camp was in
good shape by night-time. We found our old friends, the
mosquitoes, here in large numbers, and with a good prospect

ot ilieir saving all night.

AUGUST 14, TUESDAY.

M. and Joe started early for the ridge. Finished Nos. 8,
12, and 13, and joined in their triangles the point of No. u.
(This is a very precipitous point in the centre of the valley
which we called Santa Anna Mount.) The scenery was re-
markably fine, overlooking the upper basin of the East Branch
on one side and the valley of Black's Fork on the other.
They were troubled by the cold, the snow, and rain, and the
electricity, which affected the transit, sung and hissed in the
monument, gave repeated and severe shocks to the operator,
and at one time ran in a stream from the barometer to the
ground. L. was found alive, but battling with the mosqui-
toes ; all that was to be seen of his face or body was a ring
around the eyes, .left for observing purposes. M. hurt his
knee badly in the timber.

AUGUST 15, WEDiNESDAY.

L. and Joe started off this morning, while M. did up some
camp chores, and made corresponding observations. Points
14, 15, 1 6, and 17 were fixed, establishing some very impor-
tant stations in the valley — one on the transverse axis of the
range. They were also troubled by electricity, and kept from
work for some time by it.

AUGUST 16, THURSDAY.

M. and Joe started up the eastern ridge to point No. 10;
but on arriving there found it impossible to use the transit
on account of the electricity, so putting it up in its case they
went to the next peak in line and built a monument, and were
then forced to retire in a furious hail-storm. To-day, we may
say here by way of parenthesis, our troubles began. We
found this morning one of our mules (the best one at that)
6

26

had put his foreleg through the lariat-rope around his neck
and this had thrown him down. Of course, after thumping
around among the rocks all night, he was strangled and nearly
dead when we found him in the morning. We nursed him
during the day, and at one time thought he might survive.
but in vain, when night came
con gave out, and our meat
there were plenty of trout, ai

L. and Joe tried hard to ga
had to give it up ; but they got *

of a deer, only part of which hey could brn*g iiuuie, as they
were already loaded with instruments. It rained almost in-
cessantly. We were very much disheartened, and talked
seriously of doing other work in the way of returning and
joining Fort Bridger to our system. The experiences of the
morning with electricity were rather more alarming than
usual. No. 1 8 (which we never included in our triangulation)
was shattered to pieces before our eyes, when we were
scarcely one hundred paces distant.

AUGUST 18, SATURDAY.

M. and Joe started once more for the same ridge, but were
again disappointed by the storms. They built a fire to keep
warm by, under one of the ledges, and when they saw that
the rain was likely to continue, went off hunting. They suc-
ceeded in getting another deer, and brought home the best
parts of it. It commenced to rain torrents just after supper,
and rained all night.

AUGUST 19, SUNDAY.

We all went to the mill to-day, passing through our last
camp about sunrise. We found a bear had been there after
our meat that was left, but the fellow was gone, much to Joe's
and our disgust. We arrived at 10.30 A.M., just in time to
see Steel drive up with the wagon. There were lots of
papers and a bundle of letters for both of us, and we enjoyed
a regular treat, as well as distributing them to the various
mill hands. Old Jimmie, the cook, made a very good dinner,
with the rare additions of hot biscuit and pie. After this, the
hands went after Joe to get some of their money back, but

27

only got seventy-five cents. We held a council of war, and
L. was to go to the Fort to-morrow to see General Karge and
make further arrangements. M. and Joe returned to camp.

AUGUST 20, MONDAY.

L. spent the day riding to the Fort, experiencing a very

the road ; and, being the only promi-

prairie, was not enchanted with the

spent the day hunting and fishing

r fish), and watching the Indians, of

lumber camped near us.

AUGUST 21, TUESDAY.

L. spent the day at the Fort. He had to content himself
with writing messages to General Karge, as no one was in
the Fort from our other party. M. and Joe spent the day
fishing, and made themselves sick by eating too many trout.
In the afternoon L. left his own horse at the Fort, and took a
black one and a little mule from the herd-house, with which
he reached Steel's mill safely, and staid there over night.

AUGUST 22, WEDNESDAY.

L. found, on arising, that both horse and mule had disap-
peared, and started in pursuit of them. He found the mule,
but chased him six or seven miles before he caught: him. The
horse was afterward found near the camp, but would not be
caught. L. started back on the mule in the afternoon ; he
reached camp at four o'clock, and found M. and Joe in a qui-
escent state — the effect of yesterday's troubles.

AUGUST 23, THURSDAY.

Joe went down to the mill for the horse this morning. L.
went up around No. 11 to make some sketches and measure-
ments, and M. staid in camp. Some physical measurements
were made of the inclination of strata, the height of timber
line was ascertained, and a sketch of the valley as seen from
a ledge high up on the precipitous side of No. 1 1, from which
a beautiful view was obtained, far out into the valley of
Henry's Fork, and over the bad lands. Joe came back at 6
P.M., with no horse. We decided then and there that we
would not be likely to get another horse up to that camp, and
that we had better move to our last camp.

28

AUGUST 24, FRIDAY,

We were up early, and packed up everything; then M,
and Joe went on ahead with the books and instruments to the
other camp. L. staid behind to make observations, and then
walked over to the camp. Joe went on with the mules to
Steel's mill. M. and L. went off on a partly hunting and
exploring trip in the afternoon. Joe came back in the even-
ing, with an old black horse for L. to ride.

AUGUST 25, SATURDAY.

L. went over to Steel's mill, to do some writin^ while M.
and Joe went hunting. We did not like to say good-by to

the mountains.

AUGUST 26, SUNDAY.

M. and Joe joined L. at the mill, and concerted plans for
the return. We received a bundle of letters and papers as

usual.

AUGUST 27, MONDAY.

M. and Joe started for the herd-house in the morning early,
and observations were made between the two barometers.
After dinner, they went from there to the Fort, where they
made observations also. L. followed them, stopping at the
same places until the time appointed for observations arrived.
He also filled up the intervening time sketching in the pro-
files of the adjoining country for a map to show the relation
between the Fort and the mountains. He arrived there in the
evening. We found everybody well and glad to see us.

The next few days were spent in the pleasant company of
those at the Fort, and were enjoyed very much. The Palaeon-
tologists arrived slowly, one after another, bringing a rich lot
of fossils. We packed them all safely ; and then, bidding
good-by to our friends at the Fort, we joined the rest of the
party, under Dr. Brackett, who were now at Cheyenne, await-
ing our arrival. From this point the trip home was very
similar to the outward one, with the exception that we passed
over the Union Pacific to Omaha, and then to Chicago, where
we spent Sunday. The various members of our party were
left along the road at the nearest points to their homes, to
which all returned with great pleasure, after an experience
which will long be remembered by every one who had the
honor and privilege to belong to the expedition.

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OP 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $I.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

DEC 17 1935

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