THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

.'t,

TOUR

ROUND

PERFORMED

During the Summer of 1798

CONTAINING

Not only the Description and local History of the Country ; but
also a Sketch of the History of the Welsh Bards ;

An ESSAY on the LANGUAGE ;

Observations on the Manners and Customs ; and the Habitats

of above 400 of the more rare Native Plants ; intended as

a Guide to future Tourists.

By the Rev. W. BINGLEY, B A. F.L.S.

OF ST. PETER'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.

Illustrated luith Views in Aquatinta by Alken.
IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

Sold by E. WILLIAMS, (Bookseller to the DUKE and

D u CH E s s of YOR K, and Successor to the late'Mr . B L A M I R E, )

N°. ii, Strand; and J. DEIGHTON, Cambridge.

1800.

PRINTED BY T. RICKABY, PETERBOROUGH COURT,
FLEET-STREET.

CONTENTS.

VOL. II.

PAGE

'HAP. I. — from Montgomery to Ofwejlry.

Weljh Pool— Trade— Church— Powys Cajlle.
Powijland — T/lrat Marchel Abbey — Breiddin
Hills — Llanymynech — Hill— Offa's Dyke—
Cajlle of Carreg Hwva — Houfe of Indujlry
— Ofwejlry — Cruel Death of Ofwald King of
Northamberland — Cajlle — Charters — Siege
— Daring Surprize of the Caftle — Ofwald' s
Will and Legend — Leland and Churchyard's
Defcriptlon of Ofwejlry i

CHAP. II. — From Ofwejlry to Ruabon. Chirk

— - Aqueduct-Church — Dr. Sacheverel — CaftU
-—Painting of Pejiyll Rhaiadr — Elegant
Scene at Newbridge — Ruabon — Church and;
Monuments 33

VOL. n. a 2 CHAP.

4T7086

IV CONTENTS.

PAG*
CHAP. III. — Excurjton from Ruabon to Bangor

Jfcoed. Wynnjlay — Fine View at Nant y

Bele — Pen y Llan — Over ton^— Ten- s in the
Church-yard — Bangor — Bridge and Monaf-

44

CHAP. IV. — From Ruabon to Wrexham.-

Erddig — Wrexham — Church and Monuments
— Infcriptions — WrexhamFair — Excurfionto
Holt — Church and Cajlle

CHAP. V. — From Wrexham to Mold. Caer-

gwrle Cajlle —Hope — Plas Teg — Mold —
Church — Singular Epitaph on Dr. Wynne —
Cajlle — Rhual — Maes Garmon, and the
ALLELUIA Victory 72

CHAP. VI. — From Mold to Ruthin. Gwyfanney

— Denbigh — Cajlle — Fine View — Whitchurch
— Vale of Clwyd — Llanrdaiadr — Well —
_Church — Injcription — Ruthin — Gaol —
Church and Cajlle... 89

CHAP. VII. — From Ruthin to Llangollen.

Vale of Cruets — Pillar of Elifeg—Valle Cru-

cis

CONTENTS. V

PAGE
cis Abbey — Llangollen — Church and Bridge

— Caftell Dinas Bran — Extenfeve Views —
Craig Eglioyfeg — Vale of Llangollen — Aque-
duct at Pont y Cyjfyllte — Inn at Llangollen. 114

CHAP. VIII. — From' Llangollen to Corwen.

Vale of Cruets — The Valley of the Dee —
LlandyJilUo Rail — View from a Mountain near
the Road — Site of Owen Glyndwr's Palace — •
Account of this Celebrated Hero — Corwen —
Ancient Monuments — Y Cacr Wen — Excur-
fion to the CataracT. at Glyn Bridge 136

CHAP. IX.— From Corwen to Bala. Vale of

Edeirneon — Waterfall near Cynwyd — Llan-
drillo — Llanderfel — Strange Fulfilment of an
Ancient Prophecy — Llanfawr — Account of the
tf'elfo Bard Llywarch Hen — Extraflfrom his
Elegies—Bala— Tommeny Bala — Cajlell Gronw
Befr of Benllyn — Bala Lake — It's Fijh—
Dreadful Overflowings — River Dee — Views—
Account of the Phenomenon called Daear-Dor

ll Corndochon — Caer Gai 1,50

CHAP.

VI CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAP. X.- — From Bala to Shreujbury. — PontCyn-
rr\d • -Rhiwedog — Battle at Pwl Gelanedd —
Trum y Sarn — Ferwyn Mountains — Millter
Get rig — Llangynog— Slats Quarries — Method
cf conveying Slates from the, Mountains — Lead
Mines. — Llanrhaiadr yn Mochnant — Pijf,yll
Rhaiadr — Llangedwin — Llanyblc dwell Hall
• — Llanymynech — Nefcliffe — Montford Bridge
— Shrew/bury 169

CHAP. XL — Shrew/bury. Hijlory — Charters

— Cajlle — Walls — Freefchool — Infirmary —
Millingtons Hofpital — Abbey — The Quarry —
Orphan Houfe — Religious Houfes — Cheches
— Parliaments — Battle of Shrew/bury —
Sweating Sicknejs — Siege 181

CHAP. XII. — The Manners and Cuftoms of the,
Account given by Giraldus Cambrc-

Jrs — Royal Houjehold in the Tenth Century —
Extratlsfrom the Wdjh Laws — Singular Re-
compcnce for SeduElion — Compenfations for

j Murder and Affronts — Feudal Tenures and
Vajfal&gt — The AJfach — Method of Hunting

—Laws

CONTENTS. vr

PACE

—Laws of the Chace— Games— Prefent Man-
ners — Cu riofiiy — Supcrjlitions — Knockers-
Singular Religious Cujloms — Mode of Court-
Jhip — Weddings — Funerals — Oferings — Tie
Diodlys — Obfervations en Mr. Pratt — Clergy 197

CHAP. XIII. — Bardifm and Mufic. — Sho rt Hi/lory
of the Druids — Relic of Druidical Sacrifice
yet exifting — Solemnities — Mode of InJI ruc-
tion— Drefs — Reformation of the Bards by
Griffith ap Cynan — The Eifteddfod — Degrees
in Poetry and Mufic — The Bardic Hijtory
continued — Account of the Harp — Of an an-
cient one in Trinity College Library, Dublin —
Dafydd ap Gwylyms fengular Abufe of the
Leathern Harp — The Crwth — Pibcorn — Cha-
r after of the Weljh Mujic — Fifteen WelJhAirs 239

CHAP. XIV. — Account of the Wtljh Language.

The force of the Letters — Lift of Primitive
Words — Character of the Language — Of the
Poetry — The Cornijh, Armoric, Irijh and
Erfe, all Dialefts of the Wel/h—The Weljh

Language

Vlll CONTENTS.

PAGI

Language derived from the Hebrew — Inftanccs
of their Agreement — It's Analogy to the. Greek
— Saxon Alphabet the Property of the Britons
— Rev . Walter Davies's Remark on the Weljh
Language 291

Itinerary .. . — . 323

Appendix 343

Catalogue, of above 400 Weljh Plants 371

Index 435

A TOUR

TOUR

ROUND ;

NORTH-WALES.

•naffl>^«ah»

CHAP. L

FROM MONTGOMERY TO OSWESTRY---
WELSH POOL — TRADE — CHURCH—
POWYS CASTLE— POWISLAND — YSTRAT

MARCHEL ABBEY BREIDDIN HILLS— <-

LLANYMYNECH HILL OFFALS DYKE

—CASTLE OF CARREG HWVA-- HOUSEOF
INDUS TRY—OSWESTRY— CRUEL DEATH
OF OSWALD KING OF NORTHUMBER-
LAND CASTLE CHARTERS SIEGE — •

DARING SURPRIZE OF THE CASTLE

OSWALD'S WILL AND LEGEND — LELAND
AND CHURCHYARD'S DESCRIPTION OF
OSWESTRY.

JLEAVING Montgomery, I went over a
rich champaign country toWelfh Pool,
pafling on the left Powis Caftle, the feat
of the Earl of Powys. This is fituated
on the narrow ridge of a rock, about
VOL. ii. B a mile

2 A TOUR ROUND I^7ORTH WALES.

a mile from Welfli Pool; and, for three
or four miles of the road, formed a ftrik-
ing obje6l of the fcene.

The town of Welfli Pool is large and
populous, and the chief ftreets are pretty
uniform in their buildings. This place,
from its vicinity to England, has af-
fumed much more the appearance of an
Englifh, than a Welfh town; and the
manners of the inhabitants are fo com-
pletely Englifh, that the language of
their own country feems fcarcely known
here. Anairof opulence unufual in Wales
may beobferved throughout the whole of
the place, owing to the trade in Welfli
manufactures which is here carried on to
a great extent. It is chiefly reforted to
as the market for flannels, which are
manufactured in the higher countries
and fent from hence into England. The
market day is Monday, and the Drapers
of Shrewsbury attend regularly for the

fake

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 3

fake of this commerce.* The Severn
is navigable to within three quarters of
a mile of the town, though upwards of
two hundred miles from it's mouth in the
Briflol channel. The church, apparently
a modern building, is fingularly fituated
at the bottom of a hill, and fo low that
the upper part of the churchyard is
nearly on a level with it's roof. I was
fomewhat furprized at obferving a few
branches of Ivy that had penetrated
through the roof of the choir and were
permitted to hang entwined around each
other, in a cylindrical form, upwards of
eighteen feet long. Since the neatnefs
of the place is not affecled by them, their
fingularity has no doubt been the caufe
of their prefervation.

* Mr. Pennant, in his Tour through Wales, Vol. II. p.
397. Says, that there are brought annually to Welfti Pool
between 7 and 800,000 yards of Flannel, which are- chiefly
confumed in England. This was ^ior to 1781, for in that
year the firft edition of this work came out.

B 2 Powys

4 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Powys Caftle has been originally
built of a reddifh ftone, but in order to
keep it in a flate of repair, this has of
late years been fo plaiftered over with a
coat of red lime, that at this time very
little of the ftone is to be feen. This
red coating gives the building fo much
the appearance of brick, that it was not
till I almofl touched it, that I was un-
deceived in fuppofing it fuch. The an-
tique grandeur of the building, was com-
pletely deftroyed, by the linking and
harfh contraft betwixt the walls and the
modern and newly painted fafli win-
dows.

The afcent to the caftle is up a long
and laborious flight of fleps much out
of repair when I was there ; and the
chief entrance is a gate-way betwixt
two large round towers. The building
is kept up as the habitation of Lord
Powys, though he very rarely comes

thither.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. £

thither. The furniture of moft of the
rooms is in the antient ftile of elegance,
and in fome of them the old and faded
tapeftry is yet left. In a detached build-
ing of more modern date than the caftle,
which was feparated from it by fire,
about fifty years ago, are feveral paint-
ings, but a few of the collection that had
been fent hither from England by Lord
Clive, took my attention the moft. In
the main building is a fmall collection of
antiques, fome of which are fuppofed to
be valuable.

The gardens, which have been laid
out in the wretched French tafte with
parallel terraces, fquared flopes, and wa-
ter-works, were entirely out of repair
from the owner's fo feldom vifiting this
country. The profpe£ts from hence are
extenfive, for the fituation commands
all the beautiful and fpacious country on
the eaft, interfered by the Severn and

the

6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the diftant Breiddin hills, with much of
the cultivated and well wooded country
of Salop.

Leland and Camden* each fpeak of
two caftles here both included in the
fame walls. The words of the former
are, " Welfchpole had two Lord's Mar-
" cher's Caftles with one wall, the Lord
" Powys namid Greye, and the Lord
" Dudley caullid Sutton ; but now the
" Lord Powys hathe bothe in his hand.
" The Welfchpole (Caftle) is in com-
" pas almofl as much as a little towne.
" The Lord Dudley's park is almofl
" fallen downe. The Lord Powys park
" is neatly good/'

Whether thefe two caftles were creel-
ed at the fame or at different times, I
have not been able to learn, nor what
were their different names, for, except in
the two authors above cited, I have feen

* Leland's Itinerary and Camden 's Britannia.

.5 no

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 7

no account of more than one caftle at
this place. This was anciently called
Pool Caftle t from its vicinity to the town
of Welfh Pool and Caftle Cocb, the red
caftle, from the hue of the (tone with
which it was built. It's name of Powys
Caftle, which is more modern, it feems
to have obtained from it's having been
the chiefplace in that divifion of Wales
called Powesland.

This caftle and Mathraval* were the
places of refidence of the Princes of
Powys and Powifland ; for Wales was
anciently divided into three principali-
ties, North Wales or Gwynedd, South
Wales and Powifland. The latter was
a tra6l of land which, when entire,
reached in a ftraight line from Broxton
hills in Chefhire, foutherly to Shrewf-

* Mathraval is nine or ten miles did. ant, not far from
Meivod. The name is now only preferved by a Farm houfe
built upon the fide of the ancient caTe, which is laid' to
have occupied about two acres of ground.

bury ;

8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

bury ; from hence through the eaflern
limits of Montgomery fhire,comprehend-
ing all that county, part of Radnorshire
and Brecknockfhire; then turningNorth-
ward, it included part of Merioneth-
fhire, the wholeof Denbighfhire, except
the Lordfhips of Denbigh and Ruthin,
and from thence it went in a fouth eaft-
erly direction, taking in Molesdale,
Hopedale, and Maelor in Flintshire.*

This divifion of Powifland Henry I.
who had by conqueft obtained it from
the Welfh, gave about the year 1110 to
Cadwgan ap Bleddyn ap Cynoyn, a
renowned Briton, who began to ere6l a
Caftle with the intention of refiding
here, but before it was finifhed he was
treacheroufly murdered by his nephew
Madoc.-f At what time, or by whom it
was completed is not known, it muft

* Pennant's Tour, I. 212.

4 Pond's hiftory of Wales, p. 1 70.

4t have

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES, 9

have been done before 1191, for in that
year the Welfh rifing and committing
many depredations in the marches, Hu^
bert Archbifhop of Canterbury, in the
abfence of the king (Richard I.) who
was gone on the Crufade to the Holy
]and,haitened here with alargearmy and
befieged the caftle. It was not however
till the garrifon had perceived that the
befiegers had undermined their walls,
that they would furrender, and even
this, though the enemy had three men
to their one, they did upon the moil ho-
nourable terms. The Archbifhop now
fortified it afrefh,and placed in it aftrong
garrifon ; 'but a very fhort time after-
wards it was again attacked by the
Welfh, who again obtained it, on the
fame conditions on which they had fur-
rendered it.*

* Powd, p. 248. Roger Hovedon, 775-. Stow's An-
flals, p. f6j. Hovedon and Stow relate that this event took
place in 1 197.

Before

1O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Before 1233, this caftle appears to
have once more changed owners, and
got into the hands of the Englifh ; for,
in that year, Llewelyn ap Jorwerth
seized and overthrew it.*

It remained in the poflbfiion of his
grandfon, Owen ap Gryffydd, who died,
leaving one child, a daughter, called
Hawys Gadarn. Four of her uncles dif-
puted her title to her father's land, al-
ledging that a female was not capable
of inheriting; but Edward II. befriend-
ing her, Die was married to John de
Charlton, who retained their poffefiions,
which continued in their pofterity for
feveral generations. The barony and
title went afterwards to Sir John Grey
of Northumberland, by marriage with
Jane, the eldeft daughter of Edward,
JLord Powys; and remained in their de-
fcenclants till the reign of Henry VIII.

* Powel, p. 288.

when

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.. 11

when the title became extinct. The
eftate came afterwards into the poflef-
fion of Sir William Herbert, fecond fon
of the Earl of Pembroke, who was cre-
ated Earl of Powys by Charles I. He
obtained it by purchafe in the Reign of
Queen Elizabeth *.

In October 1644, Powys Caftle was
attacked and taken for the parlia-
ment by Sir Thomas Middleton. It's
owner, Piercy Lord Powys f, was taken
prifoner ; and, on account of his attach-
ment to the king's party, had hiseftates
lequeltered, and was obliged to com-
pound for them J. During this fiege,
the caftle is faid to have been much da-
maged in it's outer walls by the firing
from the enemy's cannon. George
Earl of Powys, is the prefent owner.

* Pennant's Tour, II. 378.

+ Grofe in his Antiquities fcys, Francis Herbert was at
this time in poffeffion of Powys Caftle.
.J Whitelcck's Memorials, p. 106.

Betwixt

IS A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Betwixt Welfh Pool and Guilsfield, a>
village about four miles to the north of
it, flood the Abbey, called by Tanner,
Yflrat Marchfejj founded by Owen Ce-
veiliog, in the year 1170, and dedicated
by him to the Virgin Mary*. Whether
any remains of this houfe now exift, I
cannot fay, as I did not vifit the place.
It's revenues at the difiblutjon, in the/
26th Henry VIII. were eftimated by
Dugdale at £6%. 14$, set, and by Speed

at £73- is. $d.

About fix miles from Welfh Pool I
pafTed a groupe of three lofty moun-,
tains, called the Breiddin or Vreiddin
Hills, The higheft and moft conical of

* It was called alfo Strata Marcella, Alba domus de
Strat-Margel, vail. Crucis or Pola. It is fuppofed by fome
to have been built by Madoc ap Griffith Maelor; but it
apears that he was only a benefadtor to it. In the beginning
of the reign of Edward III, the Welih monks were removed
from hence into Engliih abbeys, and Englifh monks were
placed here, and the abbey was made fubjed to the vifita-
tion of the abbot and convent of Buildwas in Shropfhire.
'fanner' i Not, Man*

thefe

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 1$

thefe is called Moel y Golfa; the fe-
cond, Craig Breiddin; and the third,
Cefyn y Caftell. On one of them an
obelifk was erected a «teW years ago,
from a fubfcription of feveral of the

neighbouring gentlemen, in commemo-
ration of Lord Rodney's defeat of the
French fleet, under the command of
Count de Grafle.

Juft before I came to Llanymynech,
I had to crofs the furious little river
Virnwy by a ferry. To this river, Mr.
Pennant * has given the title otpifcofus
amnls ; and that gentleman enumerates
no lefs than twenty fpecies of eatable
fifh which are taken in it.

Llan y Mynech, the Village of Miners,
is a little white-wafhed village, ftand-
ing on the northern bank of the Virn-
wy. It received it's name, no doubt,
from the mines in which it's neighbour-

* Tour io Wale?, II- 3^3.

1^ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

hood-abounds, and which were worked
in the adjoining hill, called Llanymy-
nech Hill, fo early as the time of the
Romans. Of this there are undeniable
proofs. One veftige of their work is a
great artificial cave of an immenfe
length, called Ogo, from whence tfcey
..got copper. The windings of this ca-
vern are fo numerous and intricate, that
fome years back, two men of the parifh
endeavouring to explore it's mazes, were
fo bewildered in it's labyrinths, that,
when the}r were found by fome miners
who went in fearch of them, they had
lain themfelves down in defpair of ever
again feeing day-light. About forty
years back, fome miners, in fearch of
copper, found, in the recefles of the
Ogo, feveral fkeletons lying in it. When
alive, they feem to have dragged a life
of mifery in this gloomy manfion for
fome time; for there were fome culi-
nary

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 15

nary utenfils, a fire-place, and a fmall
hatchet, found near them. There was
alfo found a number of Roman coins of
Antoninus, Jauftina, and others. One
ikeleton had a bracelet of glafs beads,
like- thofe Druidical rings called Glei-
niau 5Jladroedd *, or fnake's beads ;< the

Offa

* Thefe were glafs rings, generally about half as wide as
our finger rings, but much thicker, and ufually of a greenifh
colour. They were invented and ufed by the Druids, as
amulets or charms. The popular opinion in Cornwall, and
fome parts of Wales, respecting them is, that they are not
glafs, hut are produced at a certain time of the year by
a number of fnakes joining their heads together and biffing,
when they fay that kind of bubble of a flimy fubftance is
formed upon the head of one of them, which the reft, by
continued hilling, blow on, till it pafles quite over the body,
and off at the tail, when it immediately hardens into this
fubftance. Another opinion prevalent in Wales is, that,
at that time of the year when the fnakes ufually caft their
{kins, a number of them coiled together, and fo entwine them-
felves round one, that, from the rapidity of their motions,
they heat and foften it's fcales and flan, which being thruft
from it's head off at it's tail, foon after hardens into a folid
ring. When this office has been performed to one, another
undergoes the fame, till they have all gone through it. Some
of the inhabitants aiTert, that they have feen them at work.
They fay, that at thofe times their eyes appear fiery, and
gliften in an extraordinary manner; and they are fo fierce,

39

j6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

OJfa anguinjum of Pliny encircling his
left wrift and a battle-axe by his fide.
About fifteen years after this firft difco^-
very, other miners found feveral human
bones there, and a golden bracelet clafp-
ing about a wrift.

This hill, befides copper, affords zinc,
lead, calamine, and fo much lime, as to
fupply from hence the whole country of
Montgomery and great part of Shrop*
fhire. About a hundred and fifty men
fcre generally employed here in burning
the lime during fummer, and fifty in
raifing and breaking the ftone in the
winter. In the fummer of 1795, up-
wards of eight thoufand tons were ex-
ported from hence to different parts*.

From the fummit, I had an extenfive
view over the plains towards Shrewf-

as immedintely to fly at any perfon who is fo unlucky as to
interrupt them.

* Statifiical Account of the parifh. of Llanymynech, by
Wallet Davits, A. B. Cambrian Regifter, I. 271, 272.

bury

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 17

bury on the eafl ; and on the other fide,
of the more rough and uncultivated
country of Montgomery, in which I
either could, or fancied I could, juft dif-
cern the lofty Fifty 11 Rhaiadr, lighted
by the morning fun, and glittering like
a ftream of light down the black front of
it's rock. Below me was the Virnwy,
fweeping in elegant curves along the
meadows; and, towards the fouth of
the Breiddin Hills, I had a view in
Montgomeryshire of a feries of wooded
and pleafant little vales.

By this hill runs the rampart made
by Offa, King of Mercia, to divide his
country from Wales, called Clawdd Of-
fa, or Offa's Dyke. This commences at
the river Wye, near Briftol, and extends
along Herefordlhire, Radnorfhire, part
of Shropfhire and Denbighfliire, and
ends near Treyddin Chapel in Flint-
fhire. This, at the time of it's forma-

VOL, n. C

A TOtTR ROUND NORTH WALLS,

tion, was confrdered as the line which
divided the tw6v countries ; and it ap-
pears to have been continued as fuch,
till near the Conqiieft; for, in 1064, a
law was made by Earl Harold, enact-
ing, that if any WeHhman, coming into
England without licence, was taken on
that fide of Offa's Dyke, he fhould be
punifned with the lofs of his right-*
hand*. It was fuppofed by Speed -^
and fome other hiftorians, that this
rampart was made to protecl the king-
dom of Mercia from the inroads of the
Welfh; but this has been fufficiently
anfwered, in an entertaining manner,
by Mr. Lewis Morris J. " How came
"••the King of Mercia to build this wall
" -acrofs the ifland? There mull have

* Speed's Chronicle. — Gibfon's Camb. 585. — Warring-
ton's Hiftory of Wales, p. 225.

+ Chronicle, p. 401.

| See a Letter of Mr. Lewis Morris to Mr. Robert
Vaughan of Nannau. Camb. Reg. II. 498.

A been

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 19

** been other Kings to join him; and
** it feems the Welfh were plaguy trou-
" blefome when there mufl have been
" a wall to feparate them. But I can-
" not be of the common opinion, that
" this was a defence againft the Welfh ;
" for how foon would they demolifh a
t( mud wall if they Were fuch terrible
" creatures? If they were a parcel of
" poltroons, as fome modern wits will
" infer from this filly fortification, what
" occafion was there for a wall againft
*' fuch worthlefs animals? Doth it not
" feem more likely, that upon a peace
«« betwixt the Englifh and Britifli prin*
" ces, this was made an everlafting
" boundary line between the two na*
** tions, and that they all joined in it?"
Parallel with two other dykes acrofs
this hill, runs a flupendous rampart of
loofe ftones, accompanied with a deep
fofs, which turning, follows the brow of
C 2 the

2O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the hill, and encom patties about one
half of it's extent. This was probably
Roman, and has been intended to guard
the pattages and acceffible parts, when
their ores lay expofed to the plunder of
the Britons*.

From Llanymynech, great quantities
of Llangynog-f- flate have been fent to
Briftol; and of late years, lead and
zinc, raifed in this parifh, have been
conveyed by the Stourport canal to
Birmingham, Macclesfield, and other
places.

About two miles north-weft of Llan-
ymynech, on the bank of the Virnwy,
once flood the Caftle of Carreg Hwva :
of this there is no veftige remaining,
except the fofs which guarded it on the
eaft. There is but little account of this
place in hLftory. In the year 1162, it

* Cambrian Regifler, I. 27 j.

+ Llangynog is a village about fifteen miles diftant, in
whofe mountains much flate is token.

5 was

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 21

was taken and fpoiled by the two cou-
fin germans Owen Cyveiliog and Owen
ap Madoc *, which latter kept pofleflion
of it for twenty-five years, when he was
befieged there, and flain in the night by
his relations Gwenwynwyn and Cad-
wallon, fons of Owen Cyveiliog, his for-
mer companion in plunder and devafta-
tion-f.

Ofweflry is a confiderable market
town in Shropfhire, and a place that
was much celebrated in the Saxon
times. Before I came to the town, I
pafled a large and elegant brick build-
ing, a houfe of Induftry, erecled a few
years ago, by a joint fubfcription from
feveral of the neighbouring parifhes,
for the ufe of their poor. From every
prefent profpecl, this place promifes to
be much more comfortable to the poor;

• Towel's Hiftory of Wales, p. 219.
f Ibid, p. 241.

and,

22 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

and, in time, much lefs expenfive to
their maintainers, than if they were re-
tained in their own parifhes.

Near Ofweftry, in 642, a celebrated
battle was fought, betwixt Penda, the
ferocious King of Mercia, and Ofwald,
King of Northumberland, in which the
latter was defeated and flain. Penda
was not contented with his conqueft,
but inhumanly caufed the breathlefs
body of Ofwald to be cut into pieces,
and ftuck on poles, as fo many trophies
of his victory ; and from this event the
place derived i'ts name of Ofwald's Tree,
and afterwards of Ofweftry *.

Ofwald had been in his life-time a
great benefactor to different monafte-
ries; and his name was fo much revered
among ft the Monks that, very fhortly
after his death, he was raifed to the

* Strutt's Chroniclex I. 138. It may have been called
Ofiuald't Trt, wind* in Wvlfh would fignify Oswald's

-V 4. fc/*-£//_j /„_ £*- Ll/L * t'

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 23

fcink of a faint; and the field in which
lie was flain was celebrated for nume-
rous" miracles, faid to have been wrought
in it. The Britons called the place
Maes Hir, the Long Field; and fome
time after the death of Ofwald, it ob-
tained the name of Croes Ofwalt, Of-
iv aid's Crofs.

On the place of the Martyrdom, as
the monks have termed it, a monaftery
was founded, dedicated to St. Ofwald,
which bore the names of Blanc-minfter,
Candida Ecclefia, Album Monafterium,
and White-minfter ; but no evidences
are now left, either of the time of it's
foundation or it's difiblution. It has
been fo long deftroyed, that Leland*
fays, the cloifter was Handing within

* Itin. V. 37. His words are, " The chirch (of Of-
" weftry) was fumtimc a monafterie caullid the White Min-
" fter. After tumid to a paroche chirch, and the parfonage
" impropriate to the abbey of Shrewftjury. The cloifter

iut-:minum niemnia ul>i mommtnta tnonachorum."

the

24 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the memory of perfons living within his
time ; but no part of it appears to have
been in exiflence when he was at the
place in the reign of Henry VIII. Some
have fuppofed, from the name, and
other circumilances, that this monaf-
tery was at Whitchurch ; but it is evi-
dent that this could not have been the
cafe, from Leland's having made his en-
quiries reflecting it upon the fpot, and
fo foon after it wasdeftroyed.

On an artificial mount, at the outfide
of the town, are the poor remains of the
Caftle, being but a little more than a con-
fufed heap of broken walls and mortar.

This caftle, according to the Welfh.
hiflorians,was founded in 114,8, by Ma-
doc ap Meredith ap Bleddyn, Prince of
Powys*. But the Englifh records place

* Powel, p. 201. — Ldand, in Itin. V. 37, gives Come
colour to this; for he fays " Madocus, filius Meredoci,
*' Princeps P >inae caftrum, ut aiunt pofuit. Extat turris in
« caftro nomine Madoci."

it

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALFS. 2J

it in the poflefTion of Alan, a noble
Norman, who they fay received it from
William the Conqueror, immediately
after the conqueft.

Mr. Pennant * thinks that Sir Wil-
liam Dugdale is right in his afiertion,
that there was a caftle here at the
time of the conqueft ; for " the artificial
" mount on which it was placed incli-

y

" cates it to have been earlier than the
" Roman sera. The Britons and Saxons
" gave their fortrelTes this fpecies of ele-
<c vation. The Normans built on the
" firm and natural foil or rock ; but
" often made ufe of thefe mounts, which
" they found to have been the fite of a
" Saxon caftle. This appears to have
" been the cafe with that in queftion."
The town was deftroyed, in 1216, by
King John, on account of Llewelyn's
refufal toaflift in the contentions taking

* Tour, I. 264.

place

26 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

place betwixt himfelf and his Barons .*
And, about feventeen years afterwards,
it experienced a fecond difafter, in being
burned by Llewelyn ; but, in the reign
of Edward I. provifion was made againft
any future infults, by furrounding it
with walls "I".

It has been favoured at different times
with many confiderable privileges from
it's lords ; but it was in the year 1406 that
it's moil extenfive charter was grants
ed by Thomas, Earl of Arundel, then
owner of the place. This gave to the in-
habitants many privileges which they
had not before enjoyed; the chief of
which were, that neither the lord nor
his heirs fhould confiscate or feize the
effects of perfons dying with or with-
out will in the corporation, and that
none of the inhabitants of the lordfhips
of Ofweftry, Melverley, Kinardfley,Eger-
ley, Ruyton, and eleven neighbouring

* Powel. p. 275. i Ibid, p. 288.

towns*

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 27

towns* fhould take any cattle or goods
to any foreign fair or market before they
had been firft expofed to fale in the
town of Ofweftry under the penalty of
fix {hillings and eight pence-f.

In the civil wars Ofweftry, which was
well defended by it's walls, was pofieffed
by the King, till June, 164,4, when it
was befieged by General Mytton, and
Earl of Denbigh, with a force confift-
ing of about two hundred foot, and two
troops of horfe. In the attack the fol-
diers were fo furious, that within an hour,
and with the lofs of only one, or two
men, a breach was made in the wall, by
which they entered the town. The in-
habitants in confternation, then fled into
the caftle for defence, but an attack was
immediately made upon it, by Cannon

* Thefe are called the Elevtn Towns; they form a Manor
in Ofwefiry hundred, their names are Old Rayton, Cotton,
Shelvoke, Shottaton, Wykey, Eardefton, Tedfmere, RednalJ,
Haughton, Sutton, and Jelton.

t pennant's Tour; I, 268, 269.

and

28 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

and George Cranage, a daring youth,
was perfuaded to hang a petard* to the
caftle gate. After being well animated
with fack, he undertook this defperate
attempt. He crept with the engine un-
perceived from houfe to houfe, till he
got to that next the caftle ; he then
fattened it to the gate, fet fire to it and
efcaped unhurt. This, with it's force
in exploding, burft open the caftle gate,
and the place was immediately taken.
The Deputy Governor, four Captains,
and about three hundred foldiers were
made prifoners. My tton was now made
Governor, and the Earl of Denbigh left
the place and haftened to other fervice in
Lancafhire.

* A Petard was an Engine made of copper, mixed with
a little brafs and fhaped fomewhat like a high crowned hat,
ufed in breaking down gates, barricades, drawbridges, &c.
which were intended to be furprized. It was commonly
about ten inches high, feven in diameter at the top, and ten
at the bottom. It was loaded with gunpowder, and being
fattened to the place to be furprized, was lighted by a match,
which gave time to the foldier to efcape.

Before

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 29

Before the attack was made, the Go-
vernor pulled down the fteeple and part
of the body of the church, which flood
without the walls, left the enemy mould
make ufe of it to annoy them from
thence.*

On the spth. of the fame month the
king's forces, confiding of about three
thoufand foot and fifteen hundred horfe,
under the command of Colonel Marrow,
Governor of Chefter, attempted to re-
take it, but Mytton fending to Sir Tho-
inas Middleton for affiftance ; upon his
coming up, the king's troops were at-
tacked, and completely routed. -f Some-
time after the death of the king, the caf-
tle was demolifhed.

Ofweftry and it's hundred, were part
v of Wales at the making of Domesday

A

They were taken out in 8. Edward I.

* Mr. Edwards's MSS. quoted in Pennant's Tour, I. 271.
Whitelock's Memorials, p. 93.

t Rufh worth's Hiftorical Colledions, Part III. Vol. II.
P- 7 44. 745- Whitlock, p. 94.

Not

£O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Not far from the church, was a fine
fpring of water, furrounded by a ftone
wall, having a chapel over it, called Of-
wald's Well. Of the origin of this well
Leland* fays, they had at the place a
tradition that, when Ofwald was flain,
an eagle tore one of the arms from the
body, and making off with it, fell down
and periflied upon this fpot, from whence
a fpring of water immediately flufhed
up, which has remained ever fmce a
memorial of the event.

LelandVf- account ofOfweftry is very
copious, " There be," he informs us,
" withy n the tovvne a X, notable ftreets.
" The 3. moft notable ftreates be : The
" crofle-ftreate, itbi Crux lapidex : The
*' Bayly ftreate, ubi forum maximum
" & mercatores. The g. the New-
" Gate ftreate. The houfes within the

* Itin. V. 38. t Ibid. 37, 38.

" towne,

" towne be of tymbre, andflatid. There
" is a bayly and Sergiantes.

*' Ther is a caftelle fette on a mont
" be likelihod made by hand and ditchid
" by fouth weft, betwixt Beatrice Gate
" and Willow gate, to the which the
" wall commith.

" The towne ftandith moil by fale of
" cloth made in Wales.

" There is a free fchool on the fouth
" weft fide of the church, made by one
" Davy Holbeche a Lawyer, fteward of
" the towne, and Lordfhip, and gave X
" //. land to it.

" There be fa fuburbes. The great-
" eft wherein be iiii, ftreates, thus caul-
" lid, Stratellan : The feconde fuburbe
" ftreate Wallibo ; the 3. Beteriche, wher
" be many barns for corne and hay, to
" the number of a VII. fcore feveral
" barns. The 4. Blake Gate ftreate, and
" ther be XXX barnes for corne, with

" other

gSJ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

" other houfes longging to the Townes-
" men. There goith thorowg the town
" by the crofTe a broke cumming from
•' a place caullid Simon's Welle, a bow
<; ihot without the waulle by North
rf Weft. This broke commith in
" thorough the waulle betwixt Willow-
" gate and New-gate, and fo renning
•£ through the towne goith oute under
" the Black-gate.

" There be no Towers in the wau'les befide the gates.
•* Tl e towne is dickid about and brokette; ren yiuo it.
«' Thechirch of St. Ofwaldeisa very faire leddid chirch

" with a great towrrid fteple, and it
" ftandith without the New-gate ; fo
" that no chirch is there within the
" towne."

The following is Churchyard's* una-
dorned account of this place and it's
trade.

* — " Ozeflry, a pretie towne full fine,
"Which may be lov'd, be likte and prayfed both.
It rtands fo trim, and is maintaynd fo cleane,
Ami peopled is, with folke that well doe meane;

That

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES* 33

That it deferves, to be enroll 'd and fhrynd

In each good breaft, and every manly mynd. —

The market there, fo farre exceeds withall,

As no one towne comes neere it in fome fort ;

For look what may be wifh'd or had at call

It is there found, as market men report.

For poultrie, foule, of every kind fomewhat,

No place can fliewe, fo much more cheape then that:

All kinds of Cakes that country can afford,

For money there is bought with one bare word."—

'CHAP. II.

FROM OSWESTRY TO RUABON. CHIRK

AQUEDUCT CHURCH DR. SACHE-

VEREL CASTLE— PAINTING OF PES-

TYLL RHAIADR ELEGANT SCENE AT

NEWBRIDGE RUABON. — CHURCH AND

MONUMENTS.

1HE village of Chirk Hands on the brow
of a hill, and from the numerous coal
and other works around, it appeared a
place of fome bufmefs. The Ellefmere
Canal will pafs within half a mile of it ;
this canal is to be carried over the river
VOL. IK D snci

«4< A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

and vale of Ceiriog, by a long aque-
du6t, part of which was finifhed when I
was here. Within a very little di fiance
of the aqueduct, the canal will have to
pafs thro' a Tunnel, of very confidera-
hie length, thefe inconveniences of hill
and vale, mud render the forming of
canals, through a mountainous country
like this, moft expenfive undertakings.

In the church at Chirk, are feveral
marble monuments, belonging to the
Middletons, of Chirk Cattle, but none
of them well executed ; the befl is one
in memory of Sir Thomas Middleton,
who was one of the commanders in the
Parliament's Army, during the late civil
wars.

In the year 1709, that well known
charadter Dr. Sacheverel, whofe hiftory
affords a moft ilriking inftance of the
folly and madnefs of party, exalting an
obfcure individual, pofieffed but of mo-
derate

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. ^£

derate talents, to the greateft height of
popularity, was inducted to this living
±» tke y&ar ifrgiy. He was met on the
confines of Wales by five thoufand
horfemen, among whom were perfons
of the firft fortunes in Shropfhire.
And he met with refpe6l in every town",
little Ihort of adoration.* The Hand
Inn is the beft in the place, and, for a
village Inn, is a Very tolerable houfe.

Chirk Caftle-f is about a mile and a
half diftant. This building like that of
Powys, ftill retains a mixture of the
caftle and manfion. It ftands in an ex-
pofed and open fituation, on the fummit
of a hill commanding from it's top a
m oft ex ten five view Into Jeventeeii diffe-
rent counties. On the outfide, it retains
it's antique afpecl ; it is a quadrangular

* Pennant, I. 142.

. f " At Chirk felfe be a few houfes, and there is on a
" fmaulle hille a mighty large and ftronge caftel with dy-
" vcrs towers, a late wellc icpayred by Syr Wylliam Sc^mJe-
•' J.fy the Grrlc of Darby's brother;." Ltlax£i Itin. lr. 34,

P % building

$6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

building, having four towers, one at
each corner and a fifth in the front, but
thefe being near fifty feet thick, give the
whole a heavy and clumfy afpecl.
Within is an elegant court yard a hun-
dred and fixty five feet long, and a hun-
dred broad, having on the eaft fide a
handfome Colonade. The Dungeon,
the defcent to which is down a flight of
forty two fteps, is faid to be as deep as
the walls are high. The chief apart-
ments are a Saloon, Drawing room and
Gallery ; in the latter of which is a large
collection of paintings principally con-
fifting of family portraits.

In a room adjoining to this, I obferv-
ed a fingular landfcape, in which Piiiyll
Rhaiadr, the celebrated waterfall in
Montgomery (hire, was painted as falling
into the fea, which warned the foot of
it's rock. I enquired into the caufe of
this flrange impropriety, and was in-
formed,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 37

formed, that the painter was a foreign
artift, who had been employed to take a
view of the waterfall, by one of the
Middletons. He had nearly finiihed
his piece when it was hinted to him,
that a few Jheep fcattered up and down,
would probably add to it's beauty ; but the
artift miftaking the hint, and being net-
tled that a perfon whom he judged ig-
norant of the art, fliould think of in-
ftrucling him, tartly replied, " You
" want fome-Jheeps in it ? Oh ! Oh ! Ill
" put you fome fteeps in it !" He then
darned out part of the piclure and intro-
duced the fea, and feveraljbeeps, ( Ships)
fome of which are ridiculoufly repre-
fented as coming quite up to the rocks.
The prefent caftle was built by Roger
Mortimer, fon of Roger, Baron of Wig-
more, on the fite of one of very ancient
^_ date, called Caftell Crogen, near which,
in 1 16,5, was fought a dreadful battle be-
tween

I ft <-T~C*-~ ' (J^t-ll- IV^T~<_

38 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

tvveen the Englifn forces, under Henry
II. and the Welfh army, under Owen
Gwynedd, in which Henry was at
length routed with great lofs.*

Roger Mortimer and John, Earl of
Warren, were appointed guardians to
the two Sons of Madoc ap GryfFydd, a
firenuous parti zan of H&nry III. and
JEdward I. Thefe two villains murder-
ed their wards, and feized their eftates
to their own ufe. Mortimer's fhare in
this robbery, was the lands of the
youngeft of them at Nan-heudwy and
Chirk,-f where he found it politic to
erect a place of defence. He did not
however enjoy his plunder long, for he
died in the tenth of Edward I. after hav-
ing been imprifoned in the tower four
years and a half, but without being
brought to trial for his injuftice. It was

* Powel's Hiilory of Wa!fi;, p. 221,
t Pennants Tour, I. 217,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 39

notwithstanding fullered to continue in
the family, and his grandfon John fold
the caftle to Richard Fitz Alan, Earl of
Arundel, \vhofe fon in 7 of Edward III.
was cpnflituted Governor of it, with a
confirmation of his father's grant. The
Fitz Alans poflefied it for three genera-
tions, after which it pafTed to Thomas
Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, in right of
his wife Elizabeth, eldeft fifterof Thomas,
Earl of Arundel, and on his difgrace and
exile, in 1397, was probably refumed by
the crown. It was afterwards granted to
William Beauchamp, Earl of Aberga-
venny, who married the other fitter,
and by the marriage of his grand-
daughter with Edward Nevil, (afterwards
Lord Abergavenny) it was in the reign
of Henry VI. conveyed into that family.
It came afterwards to Sir William Stan*
ley, and upon his execution again to the

Elizabeth

4C A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Elizabeth beftowed it on her favorite
Dudley, Earl of Leicefter, on \vhofe
death it became the property of Lord
St. John of Bletfo, whofe fon, in 1595,
fold it to Sir Thomas Middleton,
Knight,* one of the anceftors of the
prefent owner, Richard Middleton,
Efquire.

In the civil wars Sir Thomas Middle-
ton revolted from the parliament, and
made a fhort defence of the caftle> when
one fide and three towers were thrown
down in the attack, but thefe were re-
built by him within one year, at an
expence of no lefs than eighty thoufand
pounds.

About two miles from Chirk, in the
road to Ruabon, I was delighted with a
mofl pleafing view down a woody vale,
in the bottom of which ran the river
Dee. This was the firli time I had feen

* Camden's Britannia. Pennant's Tour, p. I. 285, 286.

this

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 4!

this ftream, furrounded with that ro-
mantic beauty in which it is exceeded by
very few rivers in the kingdom.

Thisfcene was interefling, but a little
further on, at a bridge, over which the
road led me, called the New Bridge, it
was much exceeded in beauty by another
view up the river. Out of the road,
about a hundred yards above the bridge,
fuch a fcene was prefented to me, that
had I poflefled the pencil of a Claude, I
could have painted one of the moft ex-

V

quifite landfcapes the eye ever beheld.
The river here darted along it's rugged
bed, and it's rocky banks clad with wood,
where every varied tint that autumn
could afford added to their effect, caft a
darkening fhade upon the ftream. With
the green oak, all the different hues of
the am, the elm and the hazel were in-
termingled. Above the bridge arofe a
few cottages furrounded with foliage.

The

42 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The evening was calm, and the fmoke,
tinged by the fetting fun, defcended
upon the vale, whilft the diftant moun-
tains were brightened by his beams into
a fine purple. I contemplated thefe
beauties till the declining fun had funk
beneath the horizon, and twilight had
begun to fteal over the landfcape, to
blend into one, every different (hade of
reflection, and to cover the whole face
of nature with it's fober grey. I then
forced myfelf away, and purfued my
journey to Ruabon, my refidence for the
night.

Ruabon is a village pleafantly ntuated
on a rifmg ground, and has around it
the refidences of feveral gentlemen of
fortune. At this place I fpent two or three
days very agreeably ; thefe I occupied
in making little excurfions to the neigh-
bouring places, and in admiring the en-*
tertaining fcenery around it,

The

A TOUR RCtfND NORTH WALLS. 43

-- ! - ' - : - ' - •— - ' - • -

The church is a good building ; it
has in it an Organ, (a thing rather un-
common in Welfh churches) which was
given to it by the late Sir Watkin Wil-
liams Wynne. Here is an ancient table
monument of marble of two recumbent
figures, having round it's edge the fol-
lowing infcription.

•" Orate pro aia Johis ap Elis Eaton Armigen.
<qui obiit vicefsio o£la°. die menfis Septenberis a no
dni MDXXVI. Et pro aia Elizabeths Clefeley uxo-
fris ej. qui obiit xi°f. die menfis Junii ano dni
. quor. aiabus propitjetur Deus. Amen."

There are alfo four other marble mo-
numents, two of which are deferving of
particular attention. One of" them is -iji
memory of Sir Watkin Williams
Wynne, who died on the ao'th. of Sep-
tember, 1749, and the other of Lady
Henrietta Williams Wynne, the wife of
.Sir Watkin, who died in the year 1760,,
£he is reprefented by a beautiful figure

44 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

of hope, reclining on an urn. Theinfcrip-
tion is on the pedeftal, within a circle
formed by a« ferpent, as expreflive of
eternity.

Dr. Powel the celebrated Welfh hifto-
rian, who tranfiated into Englifh the
hiftory of Wales, written in the Britifh
language, by Caradoc of Llancarvan>
was inftituted to this Vicarage in the
year 1571,

CHAP. III.

EXCURSION FROM RUABON TO BANGOR

ISCOED WYNNSTAY FINE VIEW AT

NANT Y BELE — PEN Y LLAN — OVER-
TON YEWS IN THE CHURCH-YARD —

BANGOR BRIDGE AND MONASTERY.

FROM Ruabon, I wandered into the
grounds of Sir Watkin Williams Wynne,
at Wynnftay. Thefe grounds are ex-
tenfive, being near eight miles in cir-

CU1TH

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 45

cu inference; they are well wooded, and
come clofe up to the village. I obferved
here fome very large oak, afh, and birch
trees; the trunk of one of the oaks was
near fifty feet in girth in the fmalleft
part. Some workmen were juft finifh-
ing a handfome column, which had a
well-ftaircafe up it, and a gallery round
it's top. I afcended, in hopes that it
would afford me a fine view of the coun-
try, but was fomewhat difappointed ;
for, though the profpec~l was extenfive,
it was by no means beautiful. Not far
from this column, is a pool, fuppliecl
from the rivulet which runs from Rua-
bon : this is, with the affiftance of art,
thrown down a fmall rock, and forms
not an inelegant cafcade.

The houfe has but little of elegance
about it; it wants uniformity in it's
buildings, having been creeled at diffe-
rent times, and in different ftiles of ar-
chitecture.

4.5 A TOUR ROUND NOK*TH \VALES.

chite6lure. This place was anciently the
refidence of Madoc ap GryfFydd Mae-
lor, Lord of Bromfield, and founder of
the abbey of Valle Crucis, near Llan-^
gollen* It had formerly the name of
Watt flay, from the ancient rampart call-
ed Watt's Dyke having lain through
the grounds ; but, when it came into the
pofleffion of the Wynne family, this
name. was changed to Wynnftay*
v- Nant y Bele, the Dingle of the Martin*
which is not far from Wynnftay, is a
deep woody hollow, whole fides, fteep
and' rocky, contain in their bottom the
waters of the Dee, which here roll on,
blackened by the depth of their fhady
banks, and are, for th$ rnoft part, hidden
from the obferver by the thicknefs of
the foliage. In the diflant background,
I obferved Chirk Caftle, and the coun-
try around it, clad in lively colours;
, more to the weft, I had Caflell

Dinas

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 47

Dinas Bran crowning the fummit of
it's deep mountain. The whole of the
vale, as far as Llangollen, lay nearly in
a line, and was richly varied with wood,
. rock, and pafture. The fcene was clofed
in the horizon by the far diftant Britifli
Alps, which bounded the fight.

From this ftation I went along the
fide of the Dee, clambering over hedges
and ditches, till I came to Pen y Llan,

the feat of Lloyd, Efq. from

whence I had another charming view of
this pleafing country.

I returned to Ruabon, and rambled
from thence to Bangor Ifcoed, a vil-

\s

lage about ten miles diftant. I pafled
through Overton, a pretty little place,
feated on an eminence at a fmall dif-
tance from the Dee. Near the bridge
I had another fine profpecl on this ro-
mantic dream, the fcenery of which was
ibmewhat firm'lar to that of the new

bridge on the road to Chirk.

In

4o A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the church-yard I faw feveral fine
old yew trees, which Mr. Pennant fays
have, from their beauty, been accounted
amongft the wonders of Wales. Whence
the cuflom of planting yew trees in
church-yards arofe, I am at a lofs to
fay. It feems to be of great antiquity,
for Offian fpeaks thus of two lovers: — >
" Here refts their duft, Cuthullin ; thefe
" lonely yews fprang up from their
" tomb, and fhade them from the
'* florm." They may probably have been
confidered as emblematical of the ftate of
mankind. Theleaves being of a moft poi-
fonous quality, may have been thought
tin emblem of mortality, whilft the du-
rable foliage refitting even the winter's

(f-fo.-Axfai t£~4 .

•> ^ •-} olafts, and the great age to which the
trees frequently attain, of two or three
centuries, are not unaptly fignificant of
immortality and eternity.

Banffor is fomewhat more than two

o

miles beyond Overtoil. It is fituated
4 on

e"

A TOUR ROtfND NORTH WALES. 49

On the banks of the Dee, which flows
under a handfome bridge of five arches,
on which is the following whimfical in*
fcription.

MVND. 5607. tiENB.CC. COiVCIT.

fARAf. AN. CHRIST. i6$S.SVMP. fc. COMIT. LIB. M. A.

HEGYR.I036. FLINT.C.

This place is chiefly celebrated, as
having been the fite of* the moft ancient
monaftery in the kingdom, founded, as
is fuppofed, by Lucius, the fon of Coel,
the firft Chriftian King of Britain, fof
the increafe of learning^ and for the
prefervation of the Chriflian faith in
this realm, ibmetime prior to the year
180*. Lucius founded it for an Univer-
fity; and it produced for thofe unen-
lightened ages many learned men ; but
it was afterwards converted into a mo-

* Speed's Chronicle, I. 207. According to Rowland,
Lucius is faid to have embraced the ChrKiian fnith fro/n rlic
preaching of Timoihy, the fon of Claudia Ruflina,a Britiih

Jady, and a difcijile of St. Paul. &v Mona nnHyua r--ii.
/. 178.

VOL. IT. E - r.afiery.

£O A TOUR ROUND NORTHWALES.

naftery, fome fay by Cynwyl or Conge-
lus, about the year 530, who was made
the firft abbot*, and others by Pelagius
the monk, a native of Wales, who had
been a ftudent here in his youth ;" he
was a man of great learning, who, hav-
ing travelled through France, Italy,
Egypt, Syria, and other Eafiern coun-
tries, was made a biiliop abroad ; and it
was after his return that he is faid to
have converted this houfe -f .

This monaftery was remarkable for
it's valuable library; and Speed J, from
it's great age and number of learned
men, fays it " was truly acknowledged
" to be the mother of all the other in
" the world." Nennius, or Niniaw, a
difciple of Elvod, who lived in the fe-

* Jones's Welsh Bards, p. n.

+ Holinflied's Chronicle, I. 26, 148. — Rowland's Monn
Antiq. p. 1 79. Some have afierted that Pelagius was never
in this kingdom.

$ Spead's Chronicle, I. 206.

venth

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. £1

venth century, and wrote in Latin a
Hiftory of Britain, which is extant in the
prefent day, was one of the abbots*.

At the coming of Augufline the monk,
who was miflioned by Pope Gregory I.
to England about 596, to convert the
Englifh Saxons to Chriftianity, themo-
naflery of Bangor appears to have been
in a very flourifhing ftate. There were at
this time no lefs than two thoufand four
hundred monks, a hundred of which in
their turns pafled one hour in devotion,
fo that the whole twenty-four hours of
every day were employed in facred du-
ties-f . Bede fays there were fo many,
that being divided into feven parts, each
contained three hundred men, which,
with their proper rulers, pafled their
time alternately in prayer and labour J.

* Gibfon's Camd. p. 568. — Jones's WeHh Bards, p. 14.
t Speed's Chronicle, I. zc6.

£ Hift. Eccl. Grntis AngL a venerab. Beda, Lib. II.
cap. ii. p. in, 112, 113. — Holinlhed's Chron. I. 15.

E 2 Theie

5$ A TOUR ROUiMD NORTH

Thefe monks were di {Tenters from the
Romifh church; and, upon the arrival
of St. Auguftine, a conference was held
betwixt him, and, amongft others, many
great and learned men from this mo-
naftery, when the imperious monk de-
manded of them, that they mould keep
the feaft of Eafter at the fame time that
the Papifts did ; that they fhould admi-
nifter baptifm according to the cuftom
of the church of Rome; and they mould
(according to Holinfhed's expreffion)
'* preach the word of life with him and
^ his fellows;" but that in other things
they might retain their ancient euftoms,
iniblently adding, that " if they would
" not accept of peace with their breth-
" ren, they ihould receive war from
" their enemies, and through therrhands
" ihould fuffer death*/' They did not
obey his commands, but refolutely main-

* Jioluifbed, T. jcj. — Hiil-', reel, a Beda.

tained

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. ,53

twined the original rites of their church :
Ihortly after this period followed the
dreadful maflacre of above twelve hun-
dred of the fociety, by Ethelfrid King of
Northumbria, at the battle of Chefter*.
This flaughter the Britifh annals and
fongs afcribe to the inftigation of Auguf-
tine, which, after the preceding conten-
tions, feems very probable.

The monaftery appears as if it had
gone to decay foon after this event ; for
William of Malmflburyf, who lived
Ihortly after the Norman Conqueft, has
reported, that in his time there remained
only fome relics of it's ancient great-
jiefs; but that there were then fo many
ruined churches, and fuch immenfe heaps
of rubbifh as were not elfewhere to be
met with. LelandJ fays of it in his
time, that it ftood on the fouth fide of

* Matt. Weftm. p. 205.
* Script, poft BE DAM. p. 294. £ Ian, V. p. 30.

4 the

54 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the Dee; " It is ploughed grownd now
" where the abbey was by the fpace of a
" good walfche myle ; and they plough
" up bones of the monkes, and in re-
" membraunce were diggid up pieces of
" their clothes in fepultures. The ab-
" bey ftoode in a faire valley, and Dee
" ran by it. The compafs of it was as
" of a walled towne, and yet remain eth
" the name of a gate called portb bogan,
" by the north ; and the name of ano-
" ther caullid portb clays, by the fouth.
" Dee fince chaunging the bottom run-
" nith now through the mydle betwyxt
<£ thefe 2. gates, one being a mile dim*.
" from the other; and yn this grounde
" be ploughid up foundations of fquarid
" ftones, and Roman money is founde
<f there."

This place appears alfo to have been
the fite of Boyium or Bonium, a famous

* Dimidium,

Roman

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 55

Pvoman itation: but there^are not at
prefent the lead remains either of the
inonaftery or the city to be met with.

CHAP. IV.

FHOM RUABON TO WREXHAM. — ERDDIG
WREXHAM CHURCH AND MONU-
MENT S 1 N S C R I P T IONS WREXHAM

FAIR EXCURSION TO HOLT €HURCH

AND CASTLE.

I LEFT Ruabon and proceeded towards
Wrexham, but in order to go through
the grounds of Philip York, Efq.* at
Erddig, I went along a footpath fome-
what to the right of the horfe road.
Thefe grounds are laid out with fome
tafle, but the efforts of art are fo infin-
itely inferior to the works of nature, of
which I had of late fuch ample treats,

* The author of an excellent work, very lately publiftied,
\V -called the Fifteen Tribes of North Wales, containing much
•hiftorical information.

that

$6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

that I cannot fay they afforded me much
pleafure. Watt's dyke runs through
them, and it isfaid that there are fome re-
mains of a Roman fort not far diflant ;
of this, however, there feems much
doubt, as the only evidences of it, are a
fragment of a wall, cemented with mor-
tar, and fome traditional accounts, the
truth of which feems very uncertain.

Wrexham is a populous market town,
which, from it's fize and confequence,
may not improperly be nominated the
metropolis of North Wales. The build-
ings are in general good, and the coun-
try around it is fo beautiful as to have
induced many families to fix their refi-
dence in it's vicinity. It has been a
place of fome antiquity, being known
to the Saxons by the names of Wrigh-

teiham or Wrightlemam.*

The

* Leland fays, '•" Wrexharn truly called Wrightkfharn,
"• is the only market town of Walfche Maylor, having a

M goodly

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 57

The church, which according to Lc-
land, was formerly collegiate is a moft
elegant ftruclure. The infide is fpaci-
ous, having over the pillars much gro-
tefque carving, and over the arches the
arms of many of the Britifh and Saxon
Princes. It is not however loaded with
carving as many of the gothic churches
are ; but is plain, and kept extremely
neat.

Here are two monuments the work of
Roubiliac, the one in memory of Mary,
the daughter of Sir Richard Middleton,
who died in 1747, is particularly fine.
She is reprefented burfting from the
tomb, and with a countenance fo truly
angelic, where the mixture of furprize
and admiration is fo firmly and ftrongly

»* goodly chirch collegiate ; there longith no Prebendes to
*' it, though it be collegiated. There be fum Merchauntes
'• and good Bokeler" (that is Buckler, or Shield) •' Ma-
»' kers," Itjn, V. 32,

qxprefTed

£8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

expreffed, that it is almoft pofTible to
fancy it more than ftone. The *' Saint-
'• ed Maid" fays Mifs Seward,

•amid the burfting tomb
Hears the lalt trumpet thrill it's murky ^loom,
With fmile triumphant over death and time
"Lifts the rapt eye and rears the form fublime.

In the background an ancient pyra-
mid, a building the mofi calculated to
refift the efforts of time, is excellently
reprefented as falling to pieces. The
little figure blowing the trumpet is not
at all apofite, and might have been well
excufed. But on the whole this is a
piece of feulpture that muft afford de-
light to every admirer of the art.

The other monument of Roubiliac's
workmanfhip, is in memory of the Re-
verend Thomas Middleton, and Arabel-
la his wife. Their faces are reprefented
in profile on a medallion.

Nearly oppofite to the former is a re-
cumbent figure of Hugh Bellot, who

was

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 59

was Bifhop of Bangor, and was after-
wards tranflated to the See of Chefter,
who died in 1596. Under the belfry is
an antique monument, which was taken
out of the ground fome years ago; it
was found by fome workmen in digging
for a foundation for the iron gates of the
church-yard. The figure is of a knight
in complete armour, with his feet refting
upon fome kind of an animal, and round
his fhield is an infcription which the An-
X tiquaries have not yet been able to un-
derftand.

The altar piece was brought from
Rome, and given to the church by Elihu
Yale, Efq. who was interred in the
church-yard ; it is a fine painting of the
institution of the Sacrament.

On the outfide, the church is richly

*/

ornamented with gothic fculpture. The

tower, which is an hundred and thirty

five feet high is particularly elegant, and

5 on

60 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

on three of it's fides, have been ftatues
of no lefs than thirty faints, each as
large as life ; of thefe, two have heen
deilroyed hy falling from their niches.
Mifs Seward, in her verfes on Wrexharn,
has exprefled in beautiful numbers the
elegance of this building.

Her hallow'd temple there religion {hews,

That erft with beauteous majefty arofe,

Jn ancient days when gothic art difplay'd

Her fanes in airy elegance array 'd,

Whofe namelefs charms the Dorian claims efface,

Corinthian fplendor and Ionic grace.

In the church-yard are feveral fingu-
lar infcriptions ; of thefe I tranfcribed
the two following. The firfl was on the
tomb of Elihu Yale, who died, in the
year 1721.

Born in America, in Europe bred,
la Afric travelled, and in Afia wed j
Where long he liv'd and thriv'd— -In London dead,
JM'jch good force ill he did, fo hope all's even,
And that his foul thro' mercy's gone to Heaven!
, You that furvive and read this tale, take care
For this moil certain exit to prepare,
Where bleft in peace the actions of the juft
Smell fweet nnd bio (To in in the filent dtift.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WAlES. 6l

The other which is more light and

fimple, fays only,

i

Here lies interred beneath thefefiones
The heard, the fkfh and eke the bones
Of Wrexham Clerk old Daniel Jones.

He died in the year 1668.

The prefent church, except the tower
was finifhed before 1472, the former
building having been deftroyed by fire,
and the tower, from the date that is up-
on it does not feem to have been com-
pleted till the year, 150$. In 16*47, du-
ring the civil wars, it was for fome time
made a prifon, in which feveral of the
Committee men were confined by the
Parliament's foldiers, who had mutined
for want of pay.*

At Wrexham there is a noted annual
fair, held in the month of March,
which lafts nine days, and is frequented
by traders from almbft all parts of the

* vVhitelock,'s Memorials, p. 243.

kingdom.

62 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

kingdom. The commodities brought by
the \Velfli are chiefly flannels, linen,
linfey-woolfey, and horfes and cattle in
abundance. Traders from other parts
bring Irifh linen, Yorkihire and wool-
len cloths, Manchefter goods, and Bir-
mingham manufactures of all kinds.
There are two fquares or aeses, the old
and the new, for the accomodation of
thofe who have goods to fell in their
little fhops or booths. Here is alfo a
convenient Town hall. The center
ftreet in which the market is held is of
a confiderable length and of an unufual

o

width, for an ancient town.

The two principal Inns are the Eagles,
and the RedLioivboth very good houfes.
Of thefe the former is ufually efteemed
the beft ; I experienced at it the molt
obliging treatment.

In the neighbourhood of Wrexham
are feveral manufactories of military

infi.ru-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. G*

inftruments, but in particular a large
Cannon foundery not far from the
town.

From Wrexham I went to Holt, at
prefent an obfcure little village, on the
weft bank of the Dee. This has once
been a market town, and a place of
ibme coniequence ; the only relic now
left of it's former greatnefs, is it's
continuing to be governed by a
and Aldermen.* the Mayor, on account
of the fmallnefs of the place, is ufually
fome gentleman of refpeclability who
refides in the neighbourhood. It was
incorporated by charter, granted by
Thomas, Earl of Arundel, in i^io.-f-

The

* It mu^ have been much diminiflaed even in Leland's time.
•' Holt is a praty rich Walfche toune, governid by a Mayor,
" having ens a yere a fair, but furely now no celebrate
" Market." Leland's Itin. V. 32.

•f- This charter was very partial j running in this form,
" To the burgfiTei of our tosvii and to iheir keir» and fco

«« cef-

6^ A TOUR ROUtfD NORTH WALES.

The inhabitants contribute with thofe
of Ruthin and Denbigh, towards fend-
ing a burgefs to Parliament.

This place is alfo called Lyons; the
caflle was anciently called Caftrum Le-
onis, which name Camden fuppofes it
may have obtained from the twentieth
legion having been Rationed a little
diftance higher up, on the other fide of
the Dee.*

The two villages of Holt and Farn-
don, are divided only by the river, and
have a communication by a bridge often
arches, built in the year 134,5. The
Dee at this place divides England from
Wales, Farndon being in Chefhire and
Holt in Denbighfhire. The fcenery is
flat and unpleafant, the Dee inftead of
iteep and rocky banks, being retained in

" ceffors being Englijlmen." 1\his might arifc from the
hatred that the Lord Marchers had to the Weilh, on account
of the infurre&ionof Glyndwr at that time fcarcely fi-ppref-
kd. Pennant's Tour, I. 210.

* Cough's Ca den, II. 5-? 6.

it's

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 65

it's channel only by low and uninteref-
ting meadows.

The church, or more properly chapel,
for it is a chapel of eafe to Gresford, the
parifh church, is built of the fame kind of
red ftone, and feems to be of about the
fame antiquity as the bridge.

The caftle, of which the remains are
but little more than folid rock, was fitu-
ated clofe to the river. It was defended
on three fides by a trench, forty or fifty
yards wide, cut out of the folid rock, of

which eight or ten yards of thefounda-

ito*-
tion of the caftle was formed. From

the colour and grit qf the ftone ufed in
the building, it appears to have been
taken from this trench. The fortrefs
confifted of five baftions, four of which
were round, and the remaining one, next
the river, fquare. The entrance was by
a drawbridge over the trench on the
weft fide. So little of the (tone work
VOL. ii. F is

66 A TOUR ROUSD NORTH

is left that from it's prefent (late it is im-
poffible to form any idea of it's ancient
iirength, as a place of defence. The
fite is very fmall, aixl being an a level
with the town muft have chiefly relied
for it's ftrengtb, on the deep and pcr^
pendicular fides of it's trench.

The lands about this place and at
Chirk, were, in the reigns of Henry III.
and the beginning of Edward I. the
property of Madoc ap GryiTydJ, who?
dying, left two fons both Minors.* Ed-
ward I. to whom Madoc had been an
adherent, gave the guardianfhip of one
of them, (who was to have for hisdivi-

* Pennant's Tour, I. 21 -. Though Mr. P. Teems very
fatisraftorily to have (hewn that thefe were the children of
Madoc and nor of GryfFydd, as is freq-ieiitly fuppofed, yet
fro n l.is general accuracy, I wonder that he fliould have
rdBpfe.l into the other opinion in the fame Volume, p. 28 £
and 297, wht-re he lays, they were the children of Gryffyud,
rhe father of this Madoc. Camden, p. 682, feems to have
made the f;me rniilake, he fays, John, Earl Warren, wus
guardian to '• Madoc, a Bririih Prince,"

A ^OUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 6j

Tion of his father's property, the Lord-*
fhip of Bromfield and Yale in which the
Holt ftands ; the caftle of Dinas Bran,
and the reverfioh of Maelor Saefneg,
after his mother's death) to John, Earl
of Warren ; and of the Other, who was
to have Chirk and Nan-lieudwy, to Ro-
ger Mortimer, fon of Lord Mortimer
of Wigmore. The villainous guar-
dians confpiring to free themfelves from
their charge, and to get pofieflion of the
Eftates of their wards, caufed both of
the unfortunate children to be drowned
under Holt Bridge.* This barbarity
inftead of being puniflied, was moft un*
juftly rewarded by Edward I. for he
confirmed to Warren, the caftle of Di-
na's Bran, with the Lordihip of Brom-
field and Yale, and to Mortimer, that
bf Chirk.-f They immediately began
to fecure their poiTe (lions, by ere6ling

* Pennant, I. 217. f Ayloffc's Rytuli Walli4, p. Si.

F 2 Qn

68 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES-,

en them places of Defence ; Mortimer
built the caftle of Chirk, and Warren
this of Holt ; but. he dying., the finifh-
ins: of it was left to his fon William.*

o

In the ^th. of Edward II. John Earl
Warren, the grandfon, having no iflue,
by a fpecial grant, gave this caftle, with
that of Dinas Bran, and the Lordfhip
of Bromfieldand Yale to the King; but
having foon afterdivorced his wife, he the
next year, obtained a regrant of the fame,
to himfelf and Matilda de Nereford, his
Miftrefs for life,, with remainders to his
two illegitimate children John and Tho-
mas, and their heirs ; but in want of fuch
iflue to return to the king. Matilda
was the laft furvivor, and therefore at
her death, in the 33. of Edward I II. thefe,
eftates all reverted to the crown. -f

* Bowel's Hiftoryof Wales, p. 213.
+ Dugdale, I. 81. lays, that the grant to the King was
made in the iSth. of Edward II. I have in ray pofleffion
copies of both the charters, the firft is dated in the 9th. of
X Edward II. and the other in the following year.

They

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 69

They feem, however, to have been very
fhortly afterwards given to Edward
Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel, who had
married Alice, the Earl's lifter. In this
family they continued for three genera-
tions, but, upon the execution of Richard,
they were probably forfeited to the
crown, for we are told that when Holt
Caftle was delivered to the Duke of
Hertford, in 1399, there were found in it
Jewels to the value of two hundred thou-
fand marks, and a hundred thoufand
marks in money, which had been de-
pofited there for fafety, by the unfor-
tunate Richard II. before he went on
his expedition into Ireland.*

Thomas, the fon of Richard, Earl of
Arundel, who, in the fucceeding reign
had been reftored in blood, died in 1416",
without iffue, when his unfettled eftates
fell to his fitters, of whom one was

* Holiiifhed's Chronicle, II. 500.

married

7O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

married to Sir Gerard Uiefleet, and the
other to William Beauchamp, Lord of
Abergavenny. The fhare of the latter
defcended by a daughter to Nevil, Lord
Abergavenny.

After this they must have efcheated
to the crown, for they were granted by
Henry VII. to Sir William Stanley, on
wriofe execution, Henry not only re-
fumed the Lordfhip of Bromfield and
Yale, but feized all his vaft effects,
which in plate and money, to the value of
more than forty thoufand marks, (the
plunder of Bofworth-field ) were taken
in this caftle.*

Henry VIII. gave this Lordfhip to his
natural fon, Henry Fitzroy, Duke of
Richmoqd. He enjoyed it but a fhort
time, dying about two years after he
had received it, at the age of feventeen.

» Fuller's Worthies of Wales, p. 34. Pennant's Tour,
I. 2:8.2:9.

to

A TOUR HOUND NORTH WALKS. 71

In the following reign it got into the
poflefTion of Thomas Seymour, brother
to the protector, Somerfet, who formed
liere a great Magazine of military
ftores ; but upon his execution, it once
more fell into the hands of the crown.*

Holt Caftle in the civil wars was gar-
rifoned for the king, but in 1643, was
feized by Sir William Brereton and
Sir Thomas Middlemen, for the ufe of
the parliament.^ It was afterwards re-
taken by the royalifts, for in February
1645-6 this caftle, with thofe of Ru-
thin and Hawarden, was befieged by
the parliament's forces. Sir Richard
Uoyd, the Governor, defended it
bravely, but after having held out for
above a month, he was at length oblig-
ed to furrender, which he did on arti-
cles to Colonel Pope, in the abfence of

* Pennant, I. 219. t Whitelock's Memorials., n. «-.

the

72 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the general.* In December it was, with
four others, ordered by the parliament
to be difmantled/f

The Lordfhip of Bromfield and Yale
is at prefent in the crown, under the di-
reftion of a Steward, an office in his
Majefty's difpofal, which is at prefent
filled by Sir Watkin Williams Wynne,
Bart.

CHAP. V.

FROM WREXHAM TO MOLD. CAER-

GWRLE CASTLE. HOPE. PLAS TEG.

MOLD. — CHURCH. — SINGULAR EPITAPH

ON DR. WYNNE. CASTLE. RHUAL.

MAES GARMON, AND THE Alleluia VIC-
TORY.

ABOUT half way betwixt Wrexham and
Caergwrle, I pafled through a romantic
and woody glen, which would have

* Whitelock's Memorials, p. 192, 197. + Ibid. 231.

formed

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 73

formed a very pi<5lurefque fcene, had it
not been for the number of white-"
walhed cottages which unpleafingly ob-
truded themfelves from amongft the
trees. Beyond this, a neat little bridge of
a fingle arch, with a few ruftic cottages
on the bank of the itream overfha-
clowed with trees, were pretty. The
afpecl of the country was here far more
mountainous than that I had lately
pafied; but having gone through this
vale, I foon had again flat and unculti-
vated profpecls.

Caergwrle, like Holt, has been once a
flourifhing town, and continued fuch
till Wrexham became fo much fre-
quented, fince which time it has by de-
grees dwindled almoft to nothing. It
is in the parifh of Hope, a town about
half a mile diftant.

There is every reafon to fuppofe that
Caergwrle was formerly a Roman fta-

tion,

74 A TOUR ROUND NORTH

tion, probably an outpofl to Deva.
Whilfl Camden was himfelf at this
place, an hypocauft, hewn out of the
iolid rock, fix yards and a quarter long,
five yards broad, and rather more than
half a yard high, was difcovered here;
to fome of the tiles were infcribed
LEG 10 XX, which feerns to point out the
founders *.

The place appears to have been called
Caer Gawr Lie, the Camp of the Great
Region, the name which the Britons be-r
flowed on the twentieth legion to im-
ply it's power -f.

On the fummit of a high rock at a
little diftance are the ruins of the calile.
Qf this the remains are but few, though;
fufficient to indicate that it has never
been a building of any great extent.
LelandJ fays, " The town of Hope.

* Gibfcn'sCamtler!, p. 6SS. t Pennnnt, I, 432.
$ luamry, V. 38.

" now

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 75

" fiowdecayid,wasfuintimeburgefidand
" privileged, and ys caullid in Walfch
" Cairgorles. Ther ftond yet grete
" waulles of a caftle fet on an hylle,
" wher be diggid good mille ftones of
" a blue grit."

The competition of the rock is fome-
what curious, the grit being fo exceed-
ingly coarfe as to have much the ap-
pearance of pebbles among mortar. In
digging amongft the ruins I was told
that fome filver and copper coins had
been difcovered not long before I was
here.

The founder of this caftle is not
known ; it's con ft ruction however fuf-
4. ficiently indicates that it is of Britifh
origin. Hopedale, the tract of land in
which it is fituated, was, in the reign of
Owen Gwynedd, in the pofleffion of

GryflTydd

7 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Gryffydd Maelor, one of the Welfll
Chieftains.*

Caergwrle Caflle, was one of the gifts
of Edward I. to David, bother of Llew-
elyn, laft prince of Wales. Whilft he
pofleffed it, Roger de Clifford, Jufiiciary
of Chefter, mofl unjuflifiably cut down
his woods, and endeavoured to feize on
his property; but this he was prevented
from doing by the king, to whom feveral
complaints had been made. When Da-
vid took up arms, with his brother,
againft the Englifh Monarch, he left a
garrifon of fome ftrength in the caftle,
but in the year 1282, after a fortnight's
fiege, jt was furrendered to the King.-f

This caftle was excepted from the
grant which Edward made to John,
Earl Warren, of the lands of one of the

* Powel's Hiftory of W^les, p. »ir. Owen Gwynedd,
was Prince of Wales from 1137 to 1169.
t Powel,p. 3$o. Camden's Britannia.

ions

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 77

fons of Madoc ap Gryffydd,* and with
the tra<5l of land in which it is fituated,
was by him annexed to Flintfhire, in
which county it remained till Henry
VIII. feparated it, and added it to Den-
bigh fli ire. It was however not long af-
terwards reftored to it's proper county.

Edward I. on the furrender of the
garrifon that David had left in it, be-
fiowed the caftle upon his Con fort,
Eleanor, from which circumftance it ac-
quired the name of Queen Hope.-f She
lodged here in her way to Caernarvon,
where the king had fent her to give to the
Welih, a prince, a native of their own
country. Not long after this time it ap-
pears to have been burntbyacafualfire.J

Edward the fecond, in the firft year
of his reign, granted this caftle and Ma-

* Carte's Hiftory of England, II, 193.
•f Camden's Britannia.
£ Pennant's Tour, I. 4;^.

nor

78 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES:

nor to John de Cromwell, on condition*
that he Ihould repair the caftle, at that
time in a ruinous (late.* Some years
afterwards they were given to Sir John
Stanley .-f

Hope received it's firft -charter from
Edward, the Black Prince, in the year
1351, who ordered that the conftable
of the caftle for the time being, fhould be
the may or, who wasi after taking the facra.
merit, to fvvear on the Holy Evangelifts
that he would preferve the privileges of
the burgefles granted in the charter, and
that he would chufe out of them on
Michaelmas-day, annually, two bailiffs.
Molt of the .other advantages granted
in the charters of thofe times were ad-
ded ; all which were afterwards confirm-
ed by Richard the Second. Caer-
gwrle and Hope, in conjunction with

* Dugdale's Baronage, II. 44. t Pennant, I. 435.

4 Flint,

A TOUR HOUND NORTH WALES. 79?

Flint, Caerwys, Rhyddln and Overtoil,
lend a Member to parliament.*

The river Alun divides Caergwrle from
it's parifh of Hope, whofe church, a re-
fpeftable looking building, is dedicated
to St. Cynfar.

In this parifh are foine extenfive lime
quarries, in which is frequently found a
fpecies of Foflil, rather uncommon, cal-
led Entrocbi; it's fliape is fomewhat
cylindrical, generally about an inch long,
and made up of a number of round joints.

Churchyard^ has left us the following
lines on Caergwrle.

L, Caergoorley comes, right now to pafTe my 'pen,
With ragged wau-lles yea all to rent and torne :
As though it had been never knowne to men,
Or careltfle left , £s v> retched thing forlorn ;
Like beggar bare, as naked as my nail,
It lies along, whofe wreck doth none bewayle,

When I left Caergwrle, I went not along
the ufual rpad to Mpld, but on one that

* Pennant, I. 4^6. f Worthies of Wales, p, 122,

runs

8.0 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

runs on the fouth weft of the little
river Alun, by which means I had an op-
portunity of feeing Plas Teg, a moft fm-
gularly built houfe belonging to the fa-
mily of the Trevors. It is fquare, and
at each corner has a fquare wing which
is five flories high. This houfe was
built by Sir John Trevor, in the year
1610.

Mold is a fmall market town, confift-
ing principally of one long and wide
ftreet. The church is a neat building
ornamented all round the top of the walls
with gothic carvings of animals. The
body was erected in the reign of Henry
VII. but the tower is of a more modern
confmiclion, though built in imitation
of and very much refembling it. The
pillars in the infide are light and ele-
gant, and between the arches are figures
df angels bearing fhields, having on
feme of them arms, probably of the be-

nefac-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 8l

nefa<5lors, and on others fome other or-
naments.

The monument of Richard Davies,
Efq. of Llanerch, who died in the year
1728, is very good. He is reprefented
in a (landing attitude, but the nofe of
the figure has unluckily been knocked
off by fome mifchievous boy, who hap-
pened to throw a ftone through the win-
dow whilft at play in the church-yard.

The Epitaph on Dr. Wynne, who
Was buried here, contains in it an unu-
fual degree of eccentricity.

WILLIAM WYNNE OF TOWER, D. D.

Sometime fellow of All Souls College, in Oxford,
departed this life 3". March, 1776,

Aged 77.

In conformity to antient ufage;

from a proper regard to decency,

and a concern for the health of his

fellow-creatures, he was moved to give

particular direfHcns for being buried

in the adjoining church-yard,

and not in the church.

And as he fcorned flattering of others

while living, he has tock care to prevent

VOL. II. G beinS

82 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

being flattered himfelf when dead,.

by caufing this fmall memorial to be

fct up in his Life -time.

GOD BE MERCIFUL TO ME A SlNNER.

In this church is alfo an ancient mu-
ral monument, of Robert Warton, of
Parfew, who was Abbot of Bermondfey,
and afterwards, in 1536, made Bifliop of
St. Afaph. He was interred at Here-
ford, but having been a great benefac-
tor to the church of Mold, this monu-
ment was creeled by one John ap Rhys,
as a grateful memorial of his benefi-
cence.

From the church-yard, I was fhewu
a lofty mount called the Bailey hill,* on
which the caftleof Mold formerly flood.
Of this building, there are not now, I
believe, the fmallefl remains ; the hill

* " At the north end of Byly flreate,appere ditches ar,d
" hiiles yn token of an ajncient caftel or building there.
•' It is now c^uiiid .TJ,/// JBn-uffyfv."

Ltlana'' I tin. F. 35.

was

A TO:UR ROUND NORTH WALES. 83

>vas planted at the top and round the
bottom, with larches and other fhrubs.
This place was anciently called Yr Wy->
ddgrug and Mons Altus, both of which
have the fame fignification> a lofty
mount.

The caftle appears to have been
founded ibmetime during the reign of
William Rufus, by Robert Monthault,
thefonof Ralph, high fteward of Chef-
tef, who from the place received his
name of Monthault, or, De Monte
Alto.*

In the year i i 44, it was taken and
demolifhed by Owen Gwynedd, Prince
of Wales. -f Soon after this it muft
have been again rebuilt, for in the win-
ter of 1198, it was feized by Llewelyn
ap Jorwerth.J Again it muft have got

* Dugchle's Baronage, I. 527.

•f Powel's Hiftcrjr of Wales, p. 199.

£ Pennant, I. 4? 4..

G Q into

TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

into the hands of the Englifh, for about
fifty years afterwards, it was once more
befieged and taken by the Welfh, under
their leader David, Prince of Wales,
and the whole garrifon cruelly murder-
ed. Roger de Monthault, the owner,
efcaped their fury, by happening to be
away at the time.* In 1267 GryfFydd
ap Gwenwynwyn, befieged it a fourth
time, and dellroyed it.-f

Sir GryfFydd Llwyd, who was for
fometime a ftrenuous friend to the Eng-
lifh under » Edward I. but probably,
on account of fome opprefTions he fuffer-
ed under the Englifh officers, defert-
ed their caufe, and in 1322 having joined
the 'Welfh, attempted amongft other
things to fiege the caftle, but was defeat-
ed and taken prifoner.J

* Matthew Paris, p. -,6. Matt. Weftm. p. 190. Ho-
linfheti's Chronicle, II. 7,36.

t Pcnvel, p. 326. Wynne, p. 279.
/ % Pcmel, p. 383. Holinlhed's Chron. II. 329.

In

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 85

In 1327 the lad Baron Monthault,
having no male iffue, conveyed the caftle
to Ifabel, the Queen of Edward 1 1 . for life ;
and afterwards to John, of Eltham, a
younger brother of Edward III. who
dying without ifiue, it reverted, along*
\vith his pofleffions, to the crown.

The Lordfhip was fometime after-
wards granted to the Stanley family. The
Earls of Derby poffeffed it till the exe-
cution of Earl James, after which it was,
with the Manor of Hope, purchafed by
certain perfons, who enjoyed them till
the reftoration. In the year 1664, af-
ter the civil wars, the Earl of Derby
agreed to pay eleven thoufand pounds
to be put into full pofleffibn of thefe
Manors, but falling off' from his agree-
ment, the King ordered that the former
purchafers mould retain the poflbfTion.
The Derby family. by fome means re-
gained

S6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

gained the Lordfhip of Hope, but that
of Mold was loft to them for ever.*

About a mile weft of Mold, not far
from Rhual, the feat of the Griffith fa-
mily, is a place which to this day retains
the name of Maes Gannon, the field of
Garmon or Germanus, where in Eafter

week 44,8, was fought a moft celebrated
— j"
T battle, between the joint forces of the

t Picls and Scots, againft the Britons,
headed by the Bifhops Germanus and
Lupus, who had but two years before
been fent into this kingdom. Previ-
ous to their engagement, Germanus in-
ftrucled them to attend to the word he
gave and repeat it throughout the army.
Accordingly when the forces approached
he pronounced ALLELUIA, the priefls
repeated it thrice, and afterwards the
voices of the whole army echoed forth
the facred found. The hills reverbera-
ted the cry, and the enemy affrighted

* Pennant's Tour, I. 426.
4,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 87

and trembling fled on every fide. They
were nearly all deflroyed, fome falling
by the fword, and others perifhing in
the adjoining river. From this cir-
cumftance the vidtory has ever fmce
been called Victoria Alleluiatica.

A pyramidal ftone column erected on
the fpot, in the year 1736, by the late
Nehemiah Griffith, Efq. of Rhual, com-
memorates the event in the following
infcription.

Ad Annum

4-

ccccxx

Saxoncs Pidiq. bellum adverfus

Britones junftis viribus fufciperunt

In hac regione, hodicg. MAES GARMON

Appellata : cum in prasluim defcenditur,

Apoftolicis Britonnm ducibus GERM A NO

EtLuro, CHRISTUS militabat in caftris;

ALLELUIA tcrtio repetitum exclamabant ;

Hoftilc agmen tetrcie profternitur ;

Truimphant

Hoftibus fuGs fine fanguine ;-
Palma fide non viribus obtent.%

M. P.

!» VICTORIA ALLELUIATIC^ memoriam.
M. c.

MDCCXXXVI.

Mr.

88 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALtS".

Mr. Pennant,* .as well as Mr. Grif-
fith, in the above infcription feems to
have miftaken the date of this action,
which certainly does not appear to have
taken place fo early as 420. Matthew
of Weftminfler, from whom I extracted
the above account of it, fays exprefsly,
that it was in 448, and that Germanus
and Lupus did not arrive in this kingdom
till about two years preceding. -f- He
mentions nothing of the Saxons being
engaged in it, nor does it appear very
likely that they fhould, fince their army
7 was only introduced by Vortigern in the
fubfequent year. I do not think the
obfervations made by Mr. Pennant,
from Archbifhop Ufher, that the Saxons
here engaged might have been fuch as
came over prior to the invitation of

* Tour, 1. 437.

•f Flores Hift. 152, 153, 154. In Rymer's Foedera, I.
443, it is faitj to have taken place about the year 447.

Vorti-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 89

Vortigern, upon fome predatory excur-
fion, can hold good, when fuch evidence
both dire6l andcircumftantial is brought
againft them. The arrival of the Sax-
ons prior to that period, feems of much
lefs importance in the proof than the
arrival of the Bifhops, which certainly
appears to have taken place in 446, twenty
fix years after the generally iuppofed
time of the event.

CHAP. VI.

FROM MOLD TO RUTHIN. GWYSANNEY

DENBIGH CASTLE FINE VIEW

WHITCHURCH VALE OF CLWYD

LLANRHAIADR WELL — CHURCH IN-
SCRIPTION RUTHIN GAOL—CHURCH

AND CASTLE.

NOT far from Mold, I patted at a little
di fiance Gwyfanney, the feat of the
family of Davies. The houfe is ancient,

but

go A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

but its fituation very pleafant. In the
civil wars, it was accounted fufficiently
ftrong to be garrifoned for the King, but
it was taken by Sir William Brereton,
in April 164,5.*

From Northop, I retraced my former
route through Holywell and St. Afaph
towards Denbigh. My reafon for doing
this was, that when I before vifited
thefe places, I had not been fo accurate
in my Journal as I wiflied ; I therefore
made this fecond vilit, that I might
complete it, which I did, and confolida-
ted it's contents into my former defcrip-
tion of them.

The walk from St. Afaph to Den-
bigh,^ I did not find by any means fo
pleafant as I had expected, from it's ly-

* Whitelock's Memorials, p, 142.
•f The county of Denbigh, is about 40 miles long, 20
broad and 1 30 in circumference. It contains about 4 10,000
seres of land, and 38,000 inhabitants; is divided into 18
Hundreds and 57 parifhes, a.nd has five market towns.

ins:

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 9!

ing entirely along the vale of ClwycL
The road was low, and the vale fo wide,
that it was only now and then that I
could get any profpe6l at all. A woody
dell, watered by the river Elwy, and or-
namented with a gentleman's feat or
two, pleafingly fituated amongft the
trees, on it's rifing bank, afforded a pic-
turefque fcene on the right of the road,
about three miles from St. Afaph,

The town of Denbigh,* which was
hidden by the mountains, till I came
within a mile of it, is fituated upon a hill
whofe fummit is feen crowned by the
fine ruins of it's caflle, nearly in the
middle of the vale of Clwyd. The ftreets
are all, except one, very irregular, and the
houfes ill built. I wandered up to the

* Denbigh was anciently called Caftell Kled uryn yn Rhos,
cr the craggy bill in Rhos, the former name of the traft in
which it is feated. Dinbeck> the prefent Welfh appellation,
Signifies a ftnall hill, which it is when compared with the
pc ighbouring mountains. Pennant's Tour, II. 3*7.

caftle,

92 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

caftle, before I fought out an inn, but
from the great number of turns in the
narrow ftreets, I found fome difficulty
in reaching it, though I could keep it in
fight nearly the whole time. A late
Tourift* has remarked, that it has
been thought, from it's fituation, to re-
femble Edinburgh; but though fome
flight traces of fnnilarity may be found,
he thinks the boldnefs of the pofnion of
Edinburgh, and the grandeur of it's
furrounding objects, far furpafs every
thing here.

The entrance into the caftle is
through a large Gothic arch, which was
formerly flanked by two octagonal tow-
ers, both now in ruins. Over the gate,
in an ornamental nich, is a figure of it's
founder, Henry de Lacy, fitting in his
robes of ftate ; and over another gate,

* Henry Skrine, Efq. of Warley in Somerfetfhire.

tQ

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 93

to the left of this (long fmce deftroyed)
was a ftatue of his wife, Margaret, the
daughter of William Longfpec, Earl
of Salifbury. This caftle has once been
a molt extenfive building, and from the
ftrength and thicknefs of it's walls,
muft have been almoft impregnable by
every thing except artillery.

The breaches fhew the mode of their
conftruclion ; two walls, occupying the
extremities of the intended thicknefs,
were firft built in the ordinary manner
with a vacuity betwixt them, into which
was poured a mixture of hot mortar
and rough ftones of all fizes, which on
cooling confolidated into a mafs as hard
as ftone. This kind of building was
called grouting.

Within the caftle walls is a chapel of
eafe to the parifh church, which is at
AVhitchurch, about a mile diflant. This
is dedicated to St. Hilarius, and was for-
merly

94 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

merly the chapel to the garrifon. Here is
alfo part of the body of a church, which
was begun in 1579, by Robert Dudley,
Earl of Leicefter, one of Queen Eliza-
beth's favourites; but after he had, by his
tyrannical conduct, incurred the hatred
of the people, he left it off in it's pre-
ient unfmifhed ftate.

From this hill is a view of all the
country for many miles round. Here
the vale, in all it's paftoral beauty, is
fpread before the eye, and the bounding
mountains well contraft their naked bar-
ren fides with the pleating fcene of fer-
tility between them.

David, having had a moft ferious quar-
rel with his brother Llewelyn, Prince
of Wales, found himfelf under the ne-
ceffity of flying to the Englifh court for
protection. Edward I, very probably
from motives of policy, kindly received
him, and gave to him the lordfhip of

Denbigh,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. g£

Denbigh, with lands to the value of a
thoufand marks per annum, in recom-
pence for lands in Anglefea which ought
to have belonged to him, but which the
King had fecured to Llewelyn for life.*

After the death of Llewelyn, David
intending to take the crown of Wales,
immediately fummoned the Welfh to
appear in Parliament at Denbigh ; -f-
but, not long after this event, being
taken prifoner by the Englifh, he was
executed for high treafon.

The King now granted this lordfhip
to Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who
began the caftle, and fortified the town
with a flrong wall ;J but hisfon having

* Tho. \Valfingham, p. 7. — Holinfhcd's Chron. II. 279.

t Hen. de Knyghton, p. 246$.

" Dauyd yt was ye p"nces broyer of Walys yorouge pryde
*' vveude haue ben pAnc<" of Walys after his broy'rs dethe Sc
" upon yat he feme after Walfshemen to his p"lement at Dyne-
" begge a^d follyche made Walys rife agene ye kynge and
f ' bc^anne to rncnce wrrre a^ene ye kynge." MS. in the
Library c-f St. Peter's Ccll-gt, Cambridge.

J Stowe's Annal?, p. 203. — Speed's Maps, Ch. XII.
fol 11. >'

€)6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

by accident fallen into the well and
been killed, he was fo much afflicted
by the misfortune, that the Work was
immediately neglecled ; and Leland
fays, the body or infide was never fi-
mflied.*

Lacy granted to the inhabitants fe-
veral privileges which they had not be-
fore poffeffed* one of which was the
liberty of taking and killing all kinds
of wild beafts on the lordfhip, except in
certain diflricls and parks referved fof
his own amufement.'f

After the death of this Earl, the caf-
tie and lordfhip devolved to Thomas,
Earl of Lancafter, who had married
Alicia his daughter, from whom, after
his attainder, they went by the bounty
of Edward II. to Hugh D' Efpencer,
who proved an opprefiive fuperior, and

* Leland's Itin. V. 56 — 58.

•fr Pennant, IJ. 57 ; v.ho quotes Stbrioht MSS*

abridged

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 97

abridged the inhabitants of many of the
privileges granted to them by Lacy.*
Upon the execution of D' Efpencer they
again efcheated to the crown, and were
by Edward III. given to Roger Mor-
timer, Earl of March, in exchange for
lands to the value of a thoufand pounds
per annum, which he furrendered to the
King,-f whofe attainder and execution
enabled the King not long after to grant
them to Sir William Montacute, after-
wards created Earl of Salifbury, who
had been a moil zealous and a6live man
in the fervice of the ftate J. He died in
1333; and, on the reverfal of the at-
tainder of the Earl of March, they were
reftored to his grandfon Roger; § and
by the marriage of Ann, fifter to Roger,
the lafl Earl of March, with Richard
Plantagenet, Earl of Cambridge, they

* Pennant, II. 37. t Dugdale's Baronage, I. 145.

$ Ibid, I. 147, 645, 647. § Ibid, I, 148.

VOL. ii. H came

£}S A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

came into the houfe of York, and fo to
the crown*.

In the reign of Henry VI. Denbigh
Caftle appears to have been feized by the
Yorkifts; for in Dugdale I find that the
King, in the year 1459, granted to Jaf-
per, Earl of Pembroke, and the Duke
of Bedford, a thoufand marks, to be
paid out of the lordfhips of Denbigh
and Radnor, in confideration of their
fervices in recovering it from the hands
of his adverfaries.-f

In 1563 Elizabeth beftowed the caf-
tle and lordfhip on her favourite Robert
Dudley, Earl of Leicefter, J who raifed
the rents from two to nine hundred a
year, and arbitrarily inclofed feveral of
the wafte lands. This caufed an infur-
reclion, for which two of the infurgents
were executed at Shrewfbury : the

* Dugdale's Baronage, I. 151. i Ibid, 11.241.

j Camden, p. 680, who has given us an account nearly
of all the above dcfcents.

Queen,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 99

Queen, however, to allay thefe difputes,
thought it necefiary, by a charter, to
confirm the quiet pofleflion to the te-
nants. They were again excited, in the
reign of William III. on account of a
vaft grant that had been made to the
Earl of Portland, but they were again
hufhed by the fame means that had
been ufed in the former reign. At pre-
fent they are in the crown, and fuper-
intended by a fteward appointed by the
King.*

Leland-f fays, that in his time the
caftle was very large and had many
towers in it. The entrance was remark-
ably ftrong ; but, as well as the interior
of the caftle, had never been perfectly
finifhed. He relates, that " King Ed-
" ward IV. was befegid in Denbigh
" Caftelle, and ther it was paclid by-

* Pennaqt's Tour, 11.38; and Grofe's Antiquities.
+ Itin. V. 58.

H 2, " twene

300 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

•' twene King Henry's men and bym,
" that he fhould with life departe the
" reaulme never to returne. If they
" had taken King Edward there debel-
" latumfui/et.*"

In September 1645, this caftle muft
have been in a tolerable ftate of repair,
for Charles I. after his retreat from
Chefter, lodged here in a tower, which
is ftill called the King's Tower. About
a month fubfequent to this, the armies
of the King and parliament had a def-
perate engagement near Denbigh. Sir
William Brereton having had inform a-

* Mr. Pennant (Vol. II, p. 41 ) feems to have miftaken
this pafTage, for he fays, " Leland relates a particular of this
" fortrefs which I do notdifcover in any hiftorian : he fays
" that Edward IV. was befieged in it ; and that he was per-
" mitted to retire, on condition that he (hould quit the
" kingdom for ever." The expreflion " It was paftid by-
" twene King Henry's men and hym" appears to have re-
lated not to any agreement between Edward and the army of
Htnry, but to the concerted agreement betwixt Henry and
his own rcen, either before, or while they attacked the
place; and the next pafTage, "//'they had taken, &c."
fe-ms to clear up every doubt.

tion

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 101

tion that Sir William Vaughan was col-
Ie6ling forces about Denbigh for the
King, with the intention of relieving
Chefter, then befieged, fent General
Mytton and Colonel Jones, with four-
teen hundred horfe and a thoufand foot,
againft him : Vaughan, with two thou-
fand men, was attacked ; and, after a
moft fpirited defence, was routed, with
the lofs of about a hundred men killed
and near three hundred taken prifoners.*
In 1646, the caftle was in the hands
of the Royalifts; and Colonel William
Salifbury, commonly called Blue Stock-
ings, was the governor. It was befieged
by Mytton in July, but did not furren-
der till November, and then on honour-
able terms.'f After the reiteration of
Charles II.it is faid to have been blown
up.

* Whitelock's Memorials, p. 179.-— -Rulhworth's Hifto-
rical Coll. Part IV. Vol. 1. p. 136.
t Whitelock, p, zi6, 226.

The

102 A TOUR HOUND NORTH WALES.

The beftdefcription of Denbigh Caf-
tie, in it's )Nttient Hate, is in the una-
dorned lines of Churchyard.*

A flrength of ftate ten tymes as ftrong as fair,
Yet faire and fine with double walls full thicke
Like Terrace trim to take the open air,
Made of freeftone and not of burned bricke :
No building there, but fuch as man might fay,
The worke thereof would laft till Judgment Day.

The feate fo fure, not fubjeft to a hill,
Nor yet to myne, nor force of cannon blaft :
Within that houfe may people walke at will
And ftand full fafe till danger all be paft :
If cannon roai'd, or bark'd againft the wall,
Friends there may fay, a figge for enemies all;
Five men within may keep out numbers greate
(In furious fort that {hall approach that feate.
And as this feate the caftle ftrongly {lands
Paft winning fure with engine, fword, or hands;
So lookes it o'er the country farre or neere,
And fhineslike torch and lanterne of the meere.

At the eaft end of the town of Den-
bigh flood once a houfe of Carmelite, or
White Friars, dedicated to St. Mary,
and founded, according to forne, by
John Salifbury, whb died 1289; but,
according to others, by John de Suni-

* Worthies of Wales, p. 1 24.

more

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 103

more in 1399.* I am unable to fay
whether any of this building is yet left,
not having known, when I was here, of
any religious houfe that had been foun-
ded at Denbigh.

With refpe6l to the town, Leland-j-
fays that there had been many ftreets
within the walls, but that in his time
thefe were nearly all deftroyed, and that
the number of houfeholders then fcarce-
ly exceeded eighty. Whether this de-
cay arofe from a diflike taken by the
inhabitants to it's fteep fituation, which
rendered carriage inconvenient, or from
the want of water, it is not known. It
was however gradually abandoned in
fuch a manner, that at length the old
town became quite deferted, and one
much more convenient arofe at the bot-
tom of the rock. The walls appear, like
the caftle,to have been of great ftrength ;
they had only two gates, the one called

* Tanner's Noticia Monaftica. + Itin. V. 56.

the

104 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the Exchequer, and the other the Bur-
gefles Gate. The firft was on the weft
fide, and in it the Lords' courts were
held ; and the other, on the north, had
the Burgefles' courts holden in it. Be-
fides thefe there were only four towerg
in the walls, from one of which, about
eighty years before his time, Leland
relates that the lead was torn in a
ftorm, and carried through the air for
near a mile, almoft as far as Whit-
church.

Richard II. made this place into a
free borough, and Oueen Elizabeth
formed here a body corporate, con fitt-
ing of two aldermen, two bailiffs, two
coroners, and twenty-five of the higher
clafe of burgefles, which were called
capital burgelfes, a recorder, and infe-
rior officers.*:

Whitchurch, about a mile diftant, is
a white- wafhed ftruclure, dedicated to

* Pennant, II. 45, St,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 105

£>t. Marcellus. In this church were in-
terred Sir Richard Middleton, Governor
of Denbigh CaiUe, under Edward VI,
Mary, and Elizabeth, who died in 1575,
and Humphrey Lloyd, the antiquary,
to whofe memory is erected a mural
monument, containing a figure of him*

felf in the attitude of prayer. /
to i

The approach from Denbigh to Whit-
church is much more grand and augufl
than on any other fide. There the caf-
tle is feen finely fituated on the fummit
of it's rock, which being abnofl perpen-
dicular gives one a good idea of the
ancient ftrength of the place. In this
point of view the accompanying fcenery
was more open and varied than from
any other fituation that I was in.

I was highly delighted with my ram*
ble from Denbigh to Ruthfin, ft ill
along the vale of Clwyd. The views
all the way were of the fine, rich, and

here

106 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

liere piclurefque vale, bounded at a dif-
tance by the Clwyddian hills. The day
was extremely favourable ; it was dark
and hot, and the rolling clouds that
hung heavily in the atmofphere tinged
the mountains with their fombre fhade,
which gave a richnefs to the fcenes
fcarcely to be defcribed.

I arrived at Llanrhaiadr, the Village of
the Fountain, which is fituated on a
fmall eminence in the middle of this fer-
tile vale. It takes it's name from a
fpring, about a quarter of a mile from the
church, called Ffynnon Dyfnog, where
there was a bath, and formerly a chapel,
dedicated to St. Dyfnog . Leland * men-
tions it: — " Fynnon Dunoc, or St. Du-
" noc's Well, is a mighty fpring that
" maketh a broke running fcant a myle.
" There is in the eaft end of Llan
" Rhaidr parifh very goodly corn and

* Itin. V. 54, 58.

" grafTe,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

" grafle, but by the fouth-weft end, it
" is barren and boggy."

The church is a handfome ilriicture,
with a large and rather elegant eaft
window, in which is a painting of the
genealogy of Chrift from JeiTe. The pa-
triarch is reprefented fprawling upon his
back, with the genealogical tree fpring-
ing from his ftomach. I was wandering
carelefsly in the church-yard, when I
met by chance with a tombftone, on
which was engraved the following in-
fcription.

Heare lyeth THE body of

Jolvn, ap Robert of Forth, ap

David, ap Griffith, ap David

Vauchan, ap Blethyn, ap

Griffith, ap Meredith,

ap Jerworth, ap Llewelyn,

ap Jeroth, ap Heilin, ap

Cowryd, ap Cadvan, ap

Alawgwa, ap Cadell, THE

King of Powis : who

departed THIS life THE

xx. day of March, in THE

year of our Lord God

1643, and of

his age xcv.

I now

JO8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

I now proceeded on my journey, and
found the fcenery, all the way to Ru-
thin,* was extremely beautiful. This
place, like Denbigh and St. Afaph, is
pleafantly fituated on a confiderable
eminence nearly in the middle of the
vale of Clwyd. At a little diftance, be-
hind the town, the mountains feem to
clofe up the end of the vale. In diffe-
rent parts round about it I had feveral
fine profpedls of the adjacent country.
I here crofled the little river Glwyd,
fcarcely three yards over, which I had
not before noticed fince I left St. Afaph.
The town is large and tolerably populous ;
it has two markets in the week, the one
on Saturday for meat, and the other on
Monday chiefly for corn. At this place
is a county gaol for Denbighfhire, which
is a neat, and I believe well-conftrucled

* This name is derived from the Britifh word Rludd, red,
and Dinast a fort, which fignifics a ndfirt or encampment.

4 building

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

building; and the Great Seflions are
held here, probably from the fituation
being more central than that of Den-
bigh.

The church was originally conven-
tual, belonging to a houfe of Bon-
hommes, a fpecies of Auguftine monks ;
this was made collegiate in 1310, by
John, fon of Reginald de Grey, Lord of
the Cantred of Dyffryn Clwyd, who
having endowed it with two hundred
and five acres of land and feveral privi-
leges, eftablifhed here feven regular
priefls, one of whom was to ferve in the
chapel at the caftle. In this ftate it pro-
bably continued till the diflblution ; but
there is no valuation of it either in
Dugdale or Speed.* The apartments of
the priefls were joined to the church by
a cloifler, part of which is built up, and

* Tanner's Noticia Monaftica. — Dugdale's Monafticen,
HI. 58.

now

110 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

now ferves as the manfion of the war-
den. The tower is of a date much later
than the other parts of the building.

Leland,* but without giving any par-
ticulars, fays there were once white fri-
ars at Ruthin in Dyffryn Clwyd ; Mr.
Pennant thinks their houfe may have
flood in the flreet, to this day called the
Prior's Street.

The inhabitants of this place join
with Holt, in returning a member to
Parliament.

The caftle was fituated on the north
fide of, and nearly on a level with the
town. Of this, the prefent remains are
only a few foundations of walls, and the
fragments of one or two of the towers,
fome of which appear to have been of a
great thicknefs. The ftone ufed in build-
ing it was red, from whence the place
was called Rhudd Ddin (or Dinas) the

* Itin. V. 4».

5 red

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. Ill

red fort. On the area of the caftle is at
prefent a meadow, and in another part a
five's-court and bowling-green. From
thefe walls is an elegant view of the
vale.

This town and caftle appear to have
been the work of Reginald Grey, fe-
cond fon to Lord Grey de Wilton, to
whom Edward I. in 1281, had given
nearly the whole of the vale, for his ac-
tive fervices againft the Welfh. The
pofterity of the founder, who bore the,
title of Earls of Kent, made this lord-
fhip the place of their refidence till the
time of Earl Richard, who, being with-
out children, and having diffipated his
fortune by gambling, fold it to Henry
VII.* From this time, the caftle being
unroofed was falling faft into decay, till
it was, with large revenues in the vale,

* Pennant, II. p. 61.

be-

112 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALE*.

beftowed by the bounty of Queen Eli-
zabeth, on Ambrofe, Earl of Warwick.*

In 1400, during a fair that was held
here, the town of Ruth in was fet on fire
and burnt by Owen Glyndwr, who, after
having plundered the merchants, retired
amongft the mountains. This act was
committed in revenge for Lord Grey's
having, fome years before, feized part
of his land, which lay contiguous with
his own.-f-

In the civil wars, the caftle held out
for the King till February, 1645-6, when
it was attacked, and, after a fiege of near
two months, furrendered to General
Mytton. J Colonel Mafon was made
Governor; but he did not poflefs it long,
for it was ordered in the fame year, by
the Parliament, to be difmantled.§

* Gibfon's Camden, p. 6814

t Carte's Hiftory of England, II. 650.

•f Whitelock's Memorials, p. 192, 201, § Ibid. p. 23 r.

It

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES, lig

It is thus deicribed by Churchyard,*
before it's demolition :

This caftle ftands on rocke much like red bricke
The dykes are cut with tool through ftony cragge,
The towers are high, the walls are large and thick
The worke itfelf would (hake a fubjecYs bagge,
If he were bent to build the like againe :
It refts on mount, and lookes o'er wood and playne ,
It hath great ftore of chambers finely wrought
That tymc alone to great decay hath brought.

,It (hews within by double walles and ways,

A deep device did firft ereft the fame ;

It makes our world to think on elder days

Becaufe one worke was form'd in fuch a frame*

One tower or wall the other anfwers right

As though at call each thing (hould pleafe the fight :

The rocke wrought round where every tower doth ftand

Set foorth full fine by head, by heart and hand,

* Worthies of Wales., p. 1.18.

V®L. ii. I CHAP.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

CHAP. VII.

FROM RUTHIN TO LLANGOLLEN. — VALE

OF CRUCIS PILLAR OF ELISEG

VALLECRUCIS ABBEY LLANGOLLEN

CHURCH AND BRIDGE CASTELL DINAS

BRAN EXTENSIVE VIEWS CRAIG

EGLWYSEG VALE OF LLANGOLLEN

AQUEDUCT AT PONT Y CYSSYLLTE

INN AT LLANGOLLEN.

SOON after I left Ruthin, the clouds
began to collecl:, and a fmall drizzly rain
came on, which lafted till I arrived
within four miles of Llangollen. This
caufed me to lofe fome views from the
high mountains that form the barrier
on the eaftern fide of the vale of ^Iwyd,
over which the road winds ; for I was
fo enveloped in clouds and mift, that, for
above five miles of my journey, I could
fcarcely difcern objects that were twenty
yards before me.

About

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 11/J

About ten miles from Ruthin, I de-
fcended into the vale of Crucis, called
^ alfo the vale of Gliffeg, one of the molt
beautifully fecluded fituations in the
kingdom, furrounded by high mountains
and abrupt rocks, towering rudely into
the air. The bottoms of thefe were, in
many parts, covered with wood and ver-
dure. In this vale are feated the vene-

rable remains of Llan Egweft, or Valle

X ~~

Crucis Abbey ; and from the road, at a

little diftance, the fine Gothic weft end,
embowered in trees, and backed by the
mountain, on whofe fummit ftands the
fhattered ruins of Caftell Dinas Bran,
forms a fcene finely piclurefque. The
adjoining rocks were enlivened by the
browfing flocks which were fcattered
along their fides, and by

" Kites that fwim fublime
In ftill repeated circles fcreaming loud."

Whilft

Il A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Whilft from below I was entertained
with

the cheerful found

Of woodland harmony, that always fills
1 'he merry vale between."

The rugged and woody banks of theDee
upon my proceeding forward, foon add-
ed a frefh in tereft to this beautiful retreat.
The vale extends nearly to Llangollen ;
and, at the diflance of about. a mile, the
town,with it's church and elegant bridge,
romantically embofomed in mountains,
whofe rugged fummits pierced the clouds,
came, as additional features, into the
landfcape.

To thefe elegant Fcenes, the dirty, ill-
looking town, having fcarcely a good
houfe within it, formed afterwards a
moft wretched contraft.

The bridge, which confifts of five
narrow pointed arches, was erected be-
fore 1357 by John Trevor, Bifhop of

St.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 117

St. Afaph. It is built on a rock, where
it would feem almoft impoflible to fix a
foundation fufficiently firm to withftand
the furious rapidity of the current, which
has worn the broad fhelving mafles to a
black and glofly polifh.

In the church, I found nothing deferv-
ing of attention. The name of it's pa~
tron faint, Mr, Pennant tells us, is Colkn
ap Gzvynnawg, ap Clidaivg, ap Cowrda, ap
Caradog, Freichpas ap Llyr Merim, ap
Einion Trth, ap Cunedda Wledig, who has
left a legend behind him worthy of the
Koran itfelf. From the church-yard,
the lofty mountains, on one of which is
Caftell Dinas Bran, and the woody banks
of the Dee, whofe rapid ftream winds
along the valley, form a fcene by no
means inelegant.

About a quarter of a mile from Llan-
gollen is PlasNewydd, the charming re-
treat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Mifs

Pon-

Il8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Ponfonby. It is fituated on the fouth
fide of the vale of Llangollen, and com-
mands a fine mountain-profpect.

The vale of Crucis is indebted for it's
name to the crofs or pillar, which is in a
meadow near the abbey, by the fecond
mile-ftone from Llangollen, called the
Pillar of Elifeg ; though Buck has de-
rived it from a piece of the true crofs,
laid to have been given by the religious
of the abbey to Edward I.*, who, in re-
turn for fo great a favour, granted them
feveral immunities.

^r This pillar is very ancient ; it appears
to have been creeled above a thoufand
years ago, in memory of Elifeg (the fa-
ther of Brochmail, Prince of Powys,
who was (lain in the battle of Chefter,
in 607) by Concenn or Congen, his
great-grandfon. The inscription is at

* Matt. Weftm. p. 371.

prefent

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 119

prefent illegible.* It was once twelve
feet long, but having been thrown
<lown and broken fometime during the
civil wars, it's upper part only is now
left, which is about feven feet in
length. After the civil wars it lay neg-
lecled for feveral years, till at laft Mr.
Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, the owner of the
land in which it (lands, in the year
1779, caufed this part of fo valuable a
relic of antiquity to be raifed from 6b-
fcurity, and placed once more on it's
pecleflal.

Valle Crucis, or Llan Egweft Abbey,
about a quarter of a mile from this pil-
lar, is a grand and majeftic ruin, afford-
ing fome elegant fpecimens of the an-
cient Gothic architecture. Mifs Seward

* Mr. Edward Llwyd copied it when it was in a more
perfeftftate. In the additions to Camden, Vol. II. p. 582,
there is a copy of a letter, dated i4th September, 1696,
from him to Mr. Wanley upon this fubjeft.

ad-

12O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

addrefles it in language finely poetical
and defcriptive ;

"Say, wild Valle Crucis, time decayed

Dim on the brink of Deva's wandering flood,
Your riv'd arch glimmering thro' the tangled glade,
Your gay hills towering o'er your night of wood,
Deep in the vale's recefles as you ftand,
And defolately great the rifing figh command.

Of the church are ftill left the eaft
and weft ends, and the fouth tranfept,
In the weft end is a round arched door,
and over it, in a round arch, are three
lancet windows ; and, above thefe again,
a circular or marigold one, with eight
divifions. The other end has three long
lancets nearly from the ground, and over
them two others, all very much orna-
mented within. This end, from the
fiile of it's architecture, has the appear-
ance of fomewhat higher antiquity than
the other. The cloifter on the fouth fide,
which was only a fhell in Buck's time, is
now converted into a dwelling houfe,

which

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 121

•Which is the refidence of a farmer.
Three rows of groined arches, on fingle
round pillars, fupport the dormitory, now
a loft, approached by fteps from without.
The floors are here fo thick, from their
being arched underneath, that when the
doors are ihut, and the men are threfh-
ing the corn in the room over the
kitchen, they cannot be heard below,
part of a chimney, in one of the bed-
chambers, is a relic of a fepulchral mo-
nument.

The ornaments to the pillars and
arches are of free-done, and many parts
of them are perfectly frefh and beauti-
ful. The area of the church is over-
grown with tall afli-trees, which hide
fome parts of the ruin, but add much to
It's pi6lurefque beauty,

I doe love thefe auncient ruynes,
We never tread upon them but we fet
One foote upon fome reverend hiftory;
And queliionlefs here in this open court

(Which

122 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

(Which now lies naked to the injuries
Of ftormy weather) fome men lye interred,
Loved the church foe well, and gave fo largely to't,
They thought it fhould have canopide their bones
Till Dombefday ; but all things have their end ;
Churches and cities (which have difeafes like to men)
Muft have like death that we have.

Welfier'i Duchefs of Malfy.

In this folemn and peaceable retreat,
how grand mult have been the deep
toned organ's fwell, the loud anthem of
a hundred voices rolling through thefe
roofs, and penetrating the hallowed
grove ! What devotion would not rife
upon Enthufiafm's wings, when it heard
the toll of a vefperbell undulating with
the breeze. Even now, when all thefe
heaven-infpiring founds have ceafed, does
memory recur to them ; and fancy peo-
ples the gloom with all it's former inha-
bitants. This fober fhade

" Lets fall a ferious gloom upon the mind
That checks but not appals. Such are the haunts
Religion loves, a meek and humble maid,
Whofe tender eye bears not the blaze of\ day."

.5 This

A TOUR ROUNtf NORTH WALES.

This was a houfeof Ciftertians, dedi-
cated to the Virgin Mary, and founded

C7 •/

about the year 1200, by Madoc ap
Gryffydd, Prince of Powys, and Grand-
fon, by the mother's fide, to Owen Gwy-
nedd, Prince of Wales. He was after-
wards interred here.* At the diflblu-
tion, the revenues were valued, accord-
ing to Dugdale, at a hundred and eighty-
eight pounds, eight (hillings ; and ac-
cording to Speed, at two hundred and
fourteen pounds, three (hillings, and
five pence, per annum.-f-

I will conclude my account of this
abbey, by quoting a paflage from Mr.
Grofe,J of which I dare fay every one
will be ready to give his judgment in
his own way.

After remarking that on thefe build-
ings are divers characters, but many of

* Powel, p. 25 j — 293.

i Tanner's Not. Monaft.

J Antiquities of England and Wales.

them

124 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

them fo defaced as to be illegible, he
fays, " The following account and in-
" terpretation of fome that are more
" perfect, was kindly communicated by
" Mr. Griffiths of the Navy-Office,
" moft of thefe houfes were founded
" by an injunction from the Popes, by
" way of penance, upon fome great
" Lords of thofe times, for what the
" Holy Church judged infringements
" on her prerogative, or for fome crime
" which thofe fathers of the church
«' knew full well how to avail themfelves
*e of. Taking the matter in this light,
" and from the Welfli name of the
" place, the infcription upon the ruins
(( will be intelligible. The characters are
" Mafo-Gothic, and Franco-Theotifcan
« mixt. MD H'OO HR BMSPOE ac
" he aPOuS == PRO BHOV OES CM
" G RQO. The firft double letters I
« take to be MAD. or Madocus ; H. hoc ;

f <c OO.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 125

" OO. Monafterium ; HR. Honor! ; B.
" BeatEe ; M. Marias ; S. Sanclse ; P.
" Penitens ; OE. CEdificavit ; ac. et ;
*' he. hoc; aP. appropriavit; OuS. opus;
" PRO. pro; B. bono; HO V. hofpitioq ;
" OES. ejufdem ; CM. centum marcas ;
" GR. gratis ; Q. quoq ; O. ordinavit.
" In Englifh, Madoc a penitent, creeled
" this monaftery to the honor of the
" blefled and holy Virgin, and appro-
" priated for this work, and for the
" better maintenance thereof, an htm-
" dred marks, which he freely fettled
" on them." The hundred marks I
" fuppofe he fettled on them as annual
" payment/'

Caftell Dinas Bran is fituated on a
high and rather conical hill, jtift oppo-
fite to, and about a mile from Llangol-
len. This hill is towards the top fo
ftceply doped on almoft every fide, as to
render the walk to the cattle rather fa-
4

126' A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

tiguing. The building appears to have
been about three hundred feet long,
and half that in breadth, occupying the
whole crown of the mountain ; and,
from it's extremely elevated fituation,
muft have been a place of great flrength.
On the fide which is the leafl fteep, it
was defended by trenches cut through
the folid rock. The prefent remains are
but a few (nattered walls, and thefe are
going fail to decay. The views from
hence are very grand on every fide. To-
wards the eaft I could look quite along the
whole vale of Llangollen, through which
the Dee was feen to foam over his bed
of rocks ; and beyond it, all the flat and
highly cultivated country, for many
miles. Juft beneath me lay the town of
Llangollen. Towards the weft I had
the vale of Crucis, and the mountains
beyond it, whofe dark fides were agree-
ably intermingled with wood and mea-
dow.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

dow. On the north-weft I was much
ftruck with the fingular appearance of
a vaft rock, called Craig Eglwyfeg, or the
Eagle's rockt* from the tradition of fome
eagles having formerly had their aerie
here. Leland-f feems to have miftaken
this for the rock, on which the caftle
Hands, where he fays, " there bredith
" every yere an egle. And the egle
" doth forely aflault hym that deftroy-
" eth the neft ; goying down in one baf-
" ket, and having another over his
*' hedde, to defend the fore ftripe of the^
" egle." For more than half a mile
this rock lies ftratum upon ftratum in
fuch manner, as to form a kind of Heps,
parallel with the horizon, which the
naturalifts call Saxa fedilia. The inha-
bitants of Llangollen fay, that fome-
where about this rock is an opening,

* Mr. Ed. Llwyd derive? it from Elifeg.

. Ant. p. 312,
* Itin. V. 51.

from

128 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES*

from whence there is a long arched paf-
fage under ground, fuppofed to lead to
the caflle. I fcarcely gave any credit
to this report, for I could not, upon en-
quiry, hear of any perfon who had feen
it, or who could tell whereabouts it was.

The views from Caftell Dinas Bran
are, upon the whole, fo very extenfive
and beautiful, that to any perfon who
has not had an opportunity of afcend-
ing Snowdon, or Cader Idris, this will
be found a tolerable compenfation.

This caftle, from the ftyle of it's ar-
chitecture, appears undoubtedly to have
been founded by the Britons, and it is
believed by fome (but probably only
from the fimilarity of names) to have
been built by Brennus, the Gallic Ge-
neral, who is reputed to have come into
thefe parts, to contend with his brother
Belinus. This ftory, however, feemsnpt
to be well founded.

Edward

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 129

Edward Llwyd fays it's name is taken
from the mountain river Bran that runs
juft below it, which feems very proba-
ble.*

It was the chief refidence of the
Lords of TJale, and it is not unlikely,
that it might be founded by one of them.

In the reign of Henry III. it was the
refidence of Gryffydd ap Madoc, who,
having married Emma, the daughter of
James, Lord Audley, his affections were
alienated from his country ; and he took
part with the Englifh againft his own
Prince, whofe refentment forced him to
fecure himfelf in this aerial retreat, and
confine himfelf to this caftle, where
probably grief and fhame, not long
after, put an end to his life.-f

After the death of his fon Madoc, the
guardianflup of his children was given,

* Cough's Camden, II. 585.

t Powel, 194. Pennant, I. 216, 297.

VOL. ii. K by

13O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

by Edward I. to John, Earl Warren, and
Roger Mortimer, who, having deftroyed
their wards, feized their eftates to their
own ufe*. In Warren's fhare was this
caftle, which Edward moft unjuftly con-
firmed to him.-f V-,

In the 9th of Edward II. it was, with
others, furrendered by John, Earl War-
ren, the grandfon, on account of his
having no ifliie, to the King ; but having
divorced his wife, he foon after obtained a
rcgrant of the eftates to himfelf, and his
miflrefs, Matilda de Hereford, for life,with
remainders to two illegitimate children
and their heirs; but in want of fuch
i-T'ue, to return to the King. Matilda,
the laft furvivor, died in the 3$rd of Ed-
ward III. and therefore at her death they
became the property of the crown. They
feem to have very ihortly afterwards

* Gibfon's Camden, p. 682, t Pennant, I. 217.

been

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 131

been given to Edward Fitzalan, Earl of
Arundel, and to have followed the fuo
ceflion of the Lords of Bromfield.*

In 1390, Caftell Dinas Br^n was the
habitation of Myfanwy Vechan, a moft
beautiful and accomplifhed female, a de-
fcendant of the houfe of Tudor Tre-
vor. She was beloved by Howel ap Ey-
nion Lygliw, a celebrated bard, who ad-
drefled to her an ode full of fweetnefs
and beauty.-)-

'Mid the gay towers on fteep Din's Branna's cone,
Her Hoel's bread the fair Myfanwy fires,

Oh ! harp of Cambria, never haft thou known,
Notes more mellifluent floating o'er the wires,

Than when thy bard this brighter Laura fung,

And with his ill ftarr'd love Llangollen's echoes rung.

Thus confecrate to love in ages flown,
Long ages fled, Din's Branna's ruins (hew,

Bleak as they (land upon their fteepy cone,
The crown and contraft of the vale below,

That fcreen'd by mutual rocks with pride difplays,

Beauty's romantic pomp in every f) Ivan maze.

* See Holt Caftle. t Pennant, I. 298.

K 2 When

132 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

When this caftle was demolished we;
have no information ; it muft however
have been very early, for Leland fpeaks
of it, in his time, as being quite in a
ruinous ftate.*

That I might fee as much of the
beauties of the vale of Llangollen as
poffible, I determined to walk round it,
a circuit of not more than ten or eleven
miles. I therefore crofled the bridge
and went down the road, on the north
fide of the river, which leads to Ruabon
and Wrexham. The fcenery this way
was pretty, but from the lownefs of the
road it afforded nothing very ftriking.
The mod beautiful profpe6ls I had by
looking back towards the town, where
the caftle from it's great elevation almoft
always formed a very confpicuous fea-
ture, and where I frequently had the

• Itin. V. 51.

Dee

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Dee peeping in and adding other beau-
ties to the fcene. I parted Trevor Hall,
the family feat of 'the Lloyds, finely
feated on an eminence above the road.

Having gone rather more than four
miles, I turned down a road on the right,
and croffed the bridge over the Dee,
called Pont y Cyflyllte, where I faw
the famous Aqueduct, forming a few
hundred yards below it, for conveying
the water of the Ellefmere canal, over
the river Dee and the vale of Llangol-
len. At the time I was here there were
eleven handfome fquare flone columns
creeled, the two of which that flood in
the bed of the river, were each about a
hundred and twenty feet high. From
a tablet on one of them I copied the
following infcription, which will fuffi-
ciently explain the nature of the under-
taking.

The

134 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

The Nobility and Gentry of

the adjacent counties

having united| their efforts with

the great commercial intereft of this county,

in creating an intercourfe and union, between

England and North Wales,
by a navigable communication of the three rivers,

Severn, Dee, and Merfey,

for the mutual benefit of agriculture and trade,

caufed the firft ftone of this aqueduft of

Pont Cyfyllty,

to be laid, on the ijth. day of July, MDCCXCY-

when Richard Middleton of Chirk, Efquire, M. p.

one of the original patrons of the

Ellefmere Canal,

was Lord of this manor,

and in the reign of our fovereign,

GEORGE THE THIRD,

when the equity of the laws and

the fecurity of property,
promoted the geaeral welfare of the nation,
while the arts and fcicnces flourifhed

by his patronage and

the conduft of civil life, was improved,

by his example.

I returned to Llangollen by the Of-
weflry road, on the fouth fide of the ri-
ver ; this is confiderably elevated above
the bottom of the vale, and from hence
all the furrounding objects, are feen to

great

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 135

great advantage. From thefe fleep
banks, the Dee's transparent ftrcain is
feen to 'wind in elegant cu rites , along
the woody meadows below. The
mountains on the oppofite fide of the
vale were finely varied in fliape and co-
lour ; and Trevor Hall, amidft it's woods
feated on it's eminence, lent it's aid to
decorate the fcene. From hence Caftell
Dinas Bran, and it's conical hill, feemed
to clofe up the end of the vale, and im-
perioufly to command the country
around. This fylvan vale, juftly cele-
brated for it's numerous beauties, affords
many piclurefque and highly romantic
fcenes.

The Hand is the only tolerable good
Inn in Llangollen, but from it's being
on one of the great Irifh roads, it is, du-
ring the fummer time, frequently fo full
of company as to render it very un-
pleafant. I cannot boaft much of the

civilities

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

civilities I received here, either from the
Innkeeper, or his Wife ; they are both od-
dities, as every one, who has been at the
houfe a day or two> muft know.

CHAP. VIII.

FROM LLANGOLLEN TO CORWEN. VALE

OF CRUCIS THE VALLEY OF THE DEE—

LLANDYSILIO HALL VIEW FROM A

MOUNTAIN NEAR THE ROAD SITE OF

OWEN GLYNDWR'S PALACE — ACCOUNT

OF THIS CELEBRATED HERO CORWEN

ANCIENT MONUMENTS Y CAER

WEN — EXCURSION TO THE CATARACT
AT GLYN BRIDGE.

THE whole of the country betwixt
Llangollen and Corwen, is highly beau-
tiful. The road, for about a mile, lays
along the picturefque vale of Crucis,
which is, all the way, enlivened with
woods, from whence, in many places,

were

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 137

were neat little cottages feen peeping
from amongft the trees.

Having palled this vale, I entered
Glynn Dyfrdwy, the valley of the Dee,
celebrated for having once been the pro-
perty of the Welfh hero, Owen Glyn-
dwr. The mountains here are high,
and their features bold and prominent,
from the winding of the river, and the
turnings in the vale, almoft every ftep
prefented a new lanfcape.

I parled Llandyfilio Hall, the family
feat of the Jones's, feated on a woody
flat, near the oppofite edge of the Dee,
From it's fituation in the bofom of the
mountains, it feemed almoft fecluded
from the world, but it pofiefles fo much
beauty around it, that it mult be a mofl
charming retreat.

Looking back on the places I had left,
I faw Caftell Dinas Bran, and it's ac-
companying rock, Craig Eglwyfeg, at

the

338 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the head of the vale. The latter forms
from hence a confpicuous object.

About half a mile beyond Llandy-
iilio, I clambered up a lofty hill, gentle
of afcent on the left of the road. From
the top of this, which I found much
higher than I expected, when I only fa.w
it from below, I had a view of the
whole of the vale, and all it's windings,
and it's ftill more furpentizing river
Dee, in it's bottom immediately be-
neath me. Caftell Dinas Bran, from
hence even feemed below me, and I
could carry my eye along the entire
vale of Llangollen, and over the flat
country beyond, for many miles, till it
terminated in the far diftant mountains,
which bounded the fight.

Soon a/ter I had patted the fourth

mile ftone, the vale began to change it's

appearance, and the road, inftead of

winding amongft mountains, lay nearly

4 in

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

in a line all the way to Corwen, by
which much of it's beauty was loft to
the eye.

About three miles farther on, an oak
wood on the left, and a fmall clump of
firs on an eminence on the right, mark
the place, near which was the palace of
" the wild and irregular" Owen Glyn-
dwr, but of this, except here and there a
few fcattered flones upon the ground,
there are no remains. This celebrated
hero,* whofe actions make fo confpicu-
ous an appearance in our hiftory, at the
beginning of the fifteenth century,
was the fon of GryfFydd Vychan, a de-
fcendant of Meredith, Prince of North
Wales. He received a liberal education,
and when of age fufficient, he came into

* Mr. Pennant, has favored the world with an excellent
account of this celebrated character (from which the prefent
has been chiefly extracted) in his Tour in North Wales, Vol.
J» P» 3^5' 392-

England,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

England, was entered in one of the Inns
of Court, and became a Barrifter. It is
probable that he foon quitted the profef-
iion of the law, and took up that of
Arms, which, as it afterwards proved, was
jnuch more congenial with his difpofi-
tion. He efpoufed the caufe of Richard
II. to whom he continued a faithful ad-
herent to the laft, for he was taken with
him in Flint Caftle; and when the
King's houfehold was diflblved, retired
with full refentment of his Sovereign's
\vrongs, to his patrimony in Wales. It
appears, that in the reign of Richard II.
he received the honor of Knighthood,
as in a trial between Sir Richard Le
Scrope, and Sir Robert De Grofvenour,
about a coat of arms, he is ftiled Sir
Owen De Glendore.

He married Margaret, the daughter
of Sir David Hanmer, of Hanmer in
the county of Flint, ope of the chief

Juftices

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 1^1

Juftices of the King's Bench, by whom
he had feveral children.

In the beginning of the reign of
Henry IV. he received fome ferious in-
juries from Reginald, Lord Grey of Ru-
thin, who took advantage of the depofal
of Richard, for which he applied in vain
to the Parliament for redrefs. His love
for his late mafter, the injuftice that he
had fuffered, and his own ambitious
fpirit, all confpired to make him defi«
rous of throwing off the Enlifh Yoke,
and of attempting by force to obtain
the government of Wales. He revolv-
ed in his mind, his own genealogy, a
defcendant from the ancient Britifh
princes, and being ftrongly tinctured
with fuperftition, he attached to himfelf
many of the prophecies of Merlin, and
of the other old Britifh bards. Thefe,
with the dreadful omens that he had
been told had happened at his birth,

5 tended

142 A TQUk ROUND NORTH

> r ' " — ~~~

tended to confirm him in the opinion that
he was deftined to be the redeemer of
his country from their oppreflions.
Shakefpere puts a finely defcriptive
fpeech into the chara6ier of Glyndwr ;

at my birrh,

The front of heaven, was full of fiery fhapes ;
The goats ran from the mountains, and the herds,
Were ftrangely clamoroui to the frighted fields :
Thefe figns have mark'd me extraordinary,
And the courfes of my life do (hew
I am not in the roll of common men.

He firft appeared in arms, in the year
1400, and began his exploits by attack-
ing Reginald, Lord Grey, who, clofely
connected with Henry, had fome time
before, acted fo oppreffively towards
him. He recovered his eftates from this
man, and after a feries of engagements,
which lafted upwards of twelve years,
he proved himfelf fo formidable an
enemy to Henry IV. as at laft to have
an offer of an accommodation from the
Englifh Monarch, which death only de-
prived

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 14,3

prived him from accepting. He died on
the 2oth. day of September, 1415, and,
as is generally fuppofed, was buried in
the church-yard of Monnington, in the
county of Hereford ; but there is no
monument, or any memorial of the
fpot, that contains his remains.

Superftitionfeems to have had a great
hold of him, during the whole of his
life, and this, together with his own
great exploits, and the defire of infufing
terror into the minds of his foes, feems to
have been the caufe of his declaring
himfelf fkilled in magic :

Where is he living — clipp'd in the fea,

That chides the banks of England, Scotland, Wales —

Which calls me pupil, or hath read to me ?

And bring him out that is but woman's fon,

Can trace me in the tedious ways of art,

Or hold me pace in deep experiments. —

I can call fpirits from the vafty deep.

In his general character, Glyndwr
appears to have been bold, fpirited, and
ambitious; but from, his ftrong attach-
ment

144 A TOUR KOUND NORTH WALES.

ment to the unfortunate Richard, every
one ought to look upon him as having
been a faithful friend, who had dared to
follow his mailer's fortune to the laft.
His revenge led him frequently to com-
mit acts of cruelty towards his captured
enemies, and towards thofe of his coun-
trymen, who were not active in his caufe.
His chief bard Gryffydd Llwyd, fpeaks
highly of his valour.

Loud tame has told thy gallant deeds
In every word a Saxon bleeds,
Terror and flight together carne,
Obedient to thy mighty name :
Death in the van with ample ftride,
Hew'd thee a paffage deep and wide,
Stubborn asfteel, thy nervous cheft
A more than mortal's ftrength poflefs'd.
/

The ancient hiilorians fay, that he
ended his days in the utmoil mifery,that
outcaft from fociety, he wandered from
place to place, in the habit of a ihep-
herd, in a low and moil abject condition,
being forced to fhelter himfelf in caves,

and

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 145

and defert places from the fury of his
enemies. This, however, Mr. Pennant,*
feems very juftly to doubt, -for " had his
" fituation been fo deplorable, majefty
" would never have condefcended to
" propofe terms, to fuch fcourge as
" Glyndwr had been to his kingdom.
" Our chieftain died unfubdued."

I have made here a long digreffion,
but it is what feeraed to me juftly due to
the character of this brave and ftubborn
Hero.

About two miles before I came to
Gorwen, the vale begap completely to
change it's afpecl, it wanted wood to
enliven it, and the fmooth low moun-
tains, were cultivated nearly to their
fummjt. The river Dee here differed
almoft from itfelf, it had affumed the
form of a placid Itream, and glided fi-

* Tour in North Wales, T. ^94.

VOL. ii. L lently

1*,6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

lently and finoothly on, within it's flat
and meadowy banks.

I now entered Corwen, the white-
choir,, a. dirty little market town, which,,
with it's white-warned churcfo, are fitua-
ted under a rock at the foot of the
Ferwyn mountains. It is a place of
great refort for anglers, who frequent
it for the convenience of riming in the
Dee, which abounds in falmon, troutr
graylings, and many other excellent
fpecies of fifh.

It is celebrated for having been the

place of rendezvous of the \Velfh

forces, under Owen Gwynedd, in the

year 1165, who, from hence put an end

X to theinvafion of Henry II.*

In the church, is an ancientmonument
of one of the vicars, which has upon it
this infcription ;

* Vau-han's Sketch of the Hiftory of
in Camb. Reg. L 197.

" Hie

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 147

" Hie Jacet Jorwerth Sullen, Vicarius
" de Cowaen, ora pro eo." And in the
church-yard is an apparently very old
fquare Hone pillar, that has formerly been
finely carved, but from time and wea-
ther, the ornamental work is nearly
worn out. I faw here an alms-houfe,
founded in 1709, by William Eyton,
Efquire, of Plas Warren, in Shropfhire,
for fix clergymen's widows, of Merio*
nethfhire.

On the top of a hill on the oppofite
fide of the river, called Cefyn Creini,
the fummit of worjijip, is a vaft circle of
loofe Clones, which has the appearance
cf having been a Britim fortification,
and is, I believe, what Mr. Pennant* calls
Caer Drewyn, and by others y CaerWen,
the white fort. It is near half a mile in
circumference, and the walls are at pre-

* Tcur in "North Wales, IE. 67.

L 2 fent

J^8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

fent fo much demollfhed, that at a
diftnnce, they have the appearance of
huge heaps of ftones, piled together
without any regular order. Owen
Gwynnedd, is faid to have occupied this
poft, whilft Henry lay encamped on the
Ferwyn hills, on the other fide of the
vale, and it is related that, Owen Glyn-
dwr, ufed it in his occafional retreats.
The whole circle is verv vifible from

<J

the road leading to Llanrwft, at the dif-
tance of about two miles from the
town.

From Corwen, I made a fix miles ex-
curfion to Pont y Glyn, the bridge of the
Precipice, on the road leading to Llan-
rwft. The fcenery of the whole walk
had numerous beauties, but from one
place in particular, there was a fine
view along the beautiful vale of Edeir-
jieon, bounded by the lofty Jerwyn

moun-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 14$

mountains, and adorned with the moft
delightful cultivation.

The woody glen, at the head of
which Hands Pont y Glyn, with it's pro-
minent rocks, almoft obilured by the
furrounding foliage, after a while pre—
fented itfelf, and then immediately on a
fudden turn of the road, was the bridge
thrown over the top, having beneath it
the rugged and precipitous bed of the
river, where, amongft immenfe mafles of
rock, the flream foamed with the moft
furious impetuofity. The tranfition to
this romantic fcene was fo momentary,
as to feem almoft the effe6l of magic.
The cataract is not very high, but being
jiift under the bridge, where it's white
foam was feen daihing amonft the dark
oppofing rocks, with the addition of the
pendant foliage from each fide, there
was formed altogether a finely picturef-
que and elegant fcene. The bridge

ftands

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

ftands upon two nearly perpendicular
rocks, and appeared to be fifty or fixty
feet above the bed of the ftream below.
The view from thence down the hollow
was grand and tremendous.

CHAP. IX.

FROM CORWEN TO BALA. VALE OF

EDEIRNEON WATERFALL NEAR CYN-

WYD LLANDRILLO LLANDERFEL

STRANGE FULFILMENT OF AN ANCIENT

PROPHECY LLANFAWR ACCOUNT OF

THE WELSH BARD LLYWARCH HEN EX-
TRACT FROM HIS ELEGIES BALA

TOMMEN Y BALA CASTELL GRONW

BEFR OF BENLLYN — BALA LAKE — IT'S

FISH DREADFUL OVERFLOWINGS

RIVER DEE VIEWS ACCOUNT OF THE

PHENOMENON CALLED DAEAR-DOR

CASTELL CORNDOCHON CAER GAI.

FHE diftance from Corwen to Bala,

along the ufual road, is about eleven

miles; but as there was another, which

4 for

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. IJl

••^ ^ , w__ __,__ . ._,

for fome miles went along the fide of the
Dee, I preferred that, though it led me
a mile or two farther round.

This road, as I had imagined, lay
along the vale of Edeirneon, which I had
io much admired in my ramble to Pont
y Glyn; but I found it fo bad, that it
was almofl impaflable, and being in ge-
neral along the bottom of this wide vale,
I by no means had an opportunity of
feeing all it's beauties; but whenever I
could get upon an eminence I found
much to admire.

At the village of Cynwyd, the Source
of Mifcbief, probably fo called in confe-
quence of the courts which were for-
merly held there by the great men of
the neighbourhood, to fettle the bounda-
ries of the neighbouring commons, and
to take cognizance of the encroach-
ments;* I turned on the left for about
half a mile up a dell that led me to

* Pennant, II. 72.

Rhaidr

152 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Rhaidr Cynwyd, the Waterfall of Cyn-
•wyd, on the little mountain river Tryf-
tiog, or the Impetuous. This cataract
affords much piclurefque beauty, the wa-
ter rufhing in a furious torrent from the
woody and pointed rocks above, daflies
with a tremendous roar to the rugged
bottom, along which it rages, till it joins
the Dee a little beyond the village.

I patted Llandrillo, the Church of St.
Trillo, and afterwards eroding the Dee,
came to Llanderfei, another fmall vil-
lage, whofe church is dedicated to St.
Derfel Gadarn, a faint of the Britifn ca-
lendar. This church was once noted
for a vail wooden image of it's patron
faint, concerning which the Welfh
had a prophecy, that it fhould fet a
whole for ejt on fire. Whether it was to
complete this prophecy, or to deprive
the people of the caufe of idolatry,
(for they had a fuperftitious venera-
tion for this old piece of wood), is not

known ;

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 153

known ; but it was fent for to London in
the year 1538, upon the condemnation
of Dr. Foreft, a friar obfervant, for trea-
ion, in having denied the fupremacy of
the King, and was placed under him a?
fuel when he was burned in Smithfield.*
Thus was this prophecy fulfilled, but in

a manner no doubt that was little ex-

/

peeled by the credulous Welfliraen of
that time.

Llanfawr, the Great Village^ I next ar-
rived at. This is the fuppofed place of
interment of Llywarch Hen, or Uy~
ivarcb the Aged, a Cambrian Prince, and
a moft celebrated Britifh bard and war-
rior, who flourifhed in the feventh cen-
tury ; and, after a life of viciflitudes and
misfortunes, died at the great age of a

* Holinfhcd's Chronicle, II. 94^. — Wnitelock's Memo-
rials from Brnte, p. 216- The Doftor's reply to the Court
upon his arraignment, when it was proved that he had per-
jiired hinifclf, in having before taken theoarh of fupremacy,
was that " he took that oath with his outward man, bur his
*' inward man never confented to it." ll»li*fiidt II. 9^^.

hundred

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

hundred and fifty years. - Dr. Davies
mentions in his time an infcription be-
ing upon the wall under which he is
faid to have been interred, but that
being now covered with plaifter is not
vifible. Not far from hence is a circle
of ftones, called Pabell Llyarch Hen, or

y.

* the Tent of old Llyarch, where, it is pro-
bable, he had a houfe, and fpent the
latter part of his days. In his activity
in oppofing the encroachments of the
Saxons and Irifh, he loft his patrimonial
pofTeffions, and every one of his four
and twenty fons. Upon the lofs of
all his friends, he retired to a hut at
Aber Cuog (now Dolguog, near Ma-
chynlleth) to foothe with his harp the
remembrance of misfortune, and to vent
|n elegiac numbers the forrows of old
age in diftrefs.* He has defcribed his

* Preface to Owen's Tranflation of the Elegies of tJ^-
arch Hen. — Jones's Welfli Bards. — Vaughan's Sketch of
the Hiftory of Merionethfhire. — Carnb. Reg. I. 192.

de-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 155

deplorable fituation in numbers the mofl
fimple and affecting, from which the
following is a feleclion put into Englifh
drefs.

Hark ! the cuckow's plaintive note
Doth thro* the wild vale fadly float;
As from the rav'nous hack's purfuit,
In Ciog refts her weary foot;
And there, with mournful founds and low,
Echoes my harp's refpoafive woe.

Returning Spring, like opening day,
That makes all nature glad and gay,
Prepares Andate's fiery car,
To roufe the bretheren of the war ;
When, as each youthful hero's breaft
Gloweth for the glorious teft,
Rufhing down the rocky fteep, -i

See the Cambrian legions fweep, V

Like meteors on the boundlefs deep. J

Old Mono fmiles

Monarch of an hundred ifles.

And Snoivdcn from his awful height,

His hoar head waves propitious to the fight.

, Bat I — no more in youthful pride,
Can dare the fteep rock's haughty fide ;
For fell difeafe my fmews rends,
My arm unnerves, my flout heart bends;
And raven locks, now filver-grey,
me from the field away,

But

1^6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

But fee! — He comes, all drench'd in blood,

Gnufn, the Great, and Gwen, the Good;

Bravefl, nobleft, worthieft fon,

Rich with many a conqueft won;

Civ//?, in thine anger great,

Strong thine arm, thy frown like fate;

Where the mighty rivers end,

And their courfe to ocean bend.

There, with the eagle's rapid flight,

How wouldltthou brave the thickeit fight!

Oh, fatal day ! Oh, ruthlefs deed !

When the fitters cut thy thread.

Ceafe, ye waves, your troubled roar;

Nor flow, ye mighty rivers more;

For GWw, the Great, and G'wfn, the Good,

Breathlefs lies, and drench'd in blood !

Four and twice ten fons were mine,
Us'd in battle's front to fhine ;

But low in duft my fons are laid.

Nor one remains his fire to aid.
f

Hold, oh hold, my brain, thy feat ;

How doth my bofom's monarch beat !
Ceafe thy throbs, perturbed heart ;
Whither would thy Aretch'd firings flart!
From frenzy dire, and wild affright,
Keep my fenfes thro' this night.*

X Bala, the Outlet of the Lake, is a popu-
lous market town, confi fling chiefly of one

* Jones's Wellh Bards, p, 22, 23. From the length of the
translation inferred in the above work, I have been ynder the
peceffity of omitting a great part of it.

wide

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 157

wide and long ftreet, and feated at the

bottom of a large pool, called Llyn Te-

f gid, the Fair Lake. It is in the parifh of

,\ Llanycil, the Church of the Recefs, about

a mile diftant, and is principally noted

on account of it's great trade in woollen

flock ings. The affizes for Merioneth-

fhire are alternately held here and at

Dolgelle.

Jufl before I entered the town, I
pa fled, on the left, a lofty artificial
mount, called Tommen y Bala, the Tu-
X mulus of Bala, which Mr. Pennant* con-
jectures to have been of Roman origin,
and placed here, with a fmall caftle on
it's fummit, to fecure the pafs towards
the fea, and keep the mountaineers in
fubjection. Of this he thinks the \Velfh
afterwards took advantage, by making
it one of the chain of Britiih pofts which
extended towards the north.

* Tour in Walts, II. 77.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

The hiftory both of this place and
the town is very little known ; the moft
memorable tranfa6lion that I have met
with concerning this is, that it was for-
tified in the year 1202 by Llewelyn aj>
Jorwerth, Prince of Wales.*

Bala appears to have been dependant

on the caftle of Harlech ; and fo much

•

fo, that in the reign of Edward IL it
was committed to the care of Finian de
Stanedon, conftable of that caftle. -f

On the eaflern bank of the Dee, not
far difhmt, is another mount, called

Caftell Gronw Befyr o Benllyn, theCqf-
•«df ' ~

tie of Gronw, tbe Fair of Penllyn, a chief-

tain who lived in the time of Maelgwu
Gwynedd.J

* Powel's Hiftory of Wales, p. 258.

* Sebright MSS, quoted by Mr. Pennant, II. 98.

t Vanghan's Sketch of Merioneihfhire, Camb. Reg. Ik
191. — Mr. Pennant, II. 80. is of opinion, that it was this
cattle that was fortified (or as it is there n>ifprintedywWA/y
by Llewelyn in 1202; Mr. Vaughan, however, fays deci-
dedly that it was ihc other.

Eala

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 159

Bala Lake, Llyn Tegid, or Pimble-
mere, for this pool is known by all thefe
names, is about a quarter of a mile fouth,
of the town of "Bala. It is by far the
lafgeft of the Welfh lakes, being about
four miles long, and in many parts near
a mile in breadth. The fcenery around
it is mountainous, but not fufficiently
rude to render it very finking; it re-
minded me a little of the low mountain-
ous fcenery about Winandermere, in the
jiorth of England.

This lake is well flocked with fifh of
different kinds, but in particular with
trout, eels, and a fpecies only to be found
in alpine countries, called, from the
whitenefs of it's fcales, Gwyniadd,*
This is a gregarious nfh of infipid tafle,
whofe greatefl weight feldoin exceeds
three or four pounds. The fpawning
time is in December; and they gene-

* Balms Lavarctus of Ljnnzus.

rally

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

rally keep at the bottom of the water,
feeding on fmall fhells and fuch aquatic
plants as they meet with there. It has
been faid, that though the Dee runs
through this pool, thefe fifh are never to
be found in the river; nor on the con-
trary, are the falinon of the river, though
caught in plenty there, ever to be taken
in the pool.* This is a fingular circum-
fiance; and, though not entirely, is, I
believe, in a great meafure true: the
Honourable Daines Barrington, -f who
enquired accurately into the matter, only
obferves to the aflertion, that they never
encroach upon each other; that he had
feen a falmon caught in the lake upwards
of two hundred yards from the bridge;
and that he had been authentically in-
formed, of feveral of the others being
taken even fo low down the river as

* Ed. Lhvvd in Camden'.s Britannica.
•*• See a paper on Cambrian Filh, in the Philofophical
Tra.-faflion? for the year 1767.

at

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. l6l

at Llandrillo, eight miles from Bala. —
The fifhery is the property of Sir Wat-
kin Williams Wynne.

The overflowings of this pool are at
times very dreadful ; but this feldom
happens, except when the winds rufh
from the mountains at the upper end,
when they drive the waters before them,
even over great part of the vale of Ede-
irnion, rifing in ftormy weather very
fuddenly, from the joint force of the
winds and mountain torrents, fometimes
eight or nine feet in perpendicular
height, and almoft threatening the town
with deftru6lion. On the contrary, in
calm fettled weather, it is fo fmooth,
that there have been feveral inflances,
in fevere winters, of it's having been
completely frozen over, and miftaken by
travellers for a wide plain.

The river Dee takes it's rife from un-
der Arran Benllyn, the high mountain

VOL. n. M at

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

at the head of the pool ; and pa fling
through it, as fo great an authority in
thefe matters as Giraldus Cambrinfis*
fays, without mixing it's waters with
thofe of the lake, it is difcharged under
a bridge, not far from Bala, called Pont
Mwnwg y Llyn, the bridge at the neck of
the lake.

The name of this river is properly
Dwy, divine ; a name which, no doubt,
it acquired many centuries ago, from the
fuperftitious veneration in which it was
held by the natives, on account of it's
miraculous properties of overflowing it's
banks without the intervention of rains-(%
and from It's being faid to have foretold
fome remarkable events by the chang-
ing of it's channel. And it is even laid,
that when the Britons have been drawn
up on it's banks, ready to engage the

Lin. Camb.

Iti-n. Camb. auft. Slv. Gir. Camb. Lib. II. c. r i.

Saxons,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 163

Saxons, their cuftom was firft to kifs the
earth, and then all devoutly to drink of
the river, expevting moft probably that
it's facred influence muft infpire them in
battle*. It's name is certainly not, as
many have conjectured, derived from Dii,
black ; for, except when tinged by the
torrents from the mountains, it's waters
are perfectly bright and clear ; and
Spenferf- feems to have entertained this
opinion in his defcription of the Dwell-
ing of old Timon, the fofler-father of
King Arthur :

lowe in a valley green,

Under the foot of Rawran Mofile hore,
From whence the river D.-e, as filver dene,
His tumbling billows rolls with gentle rcre.

From the bottom of the lake, the di-
verfified (bores prelent to the eye a
pleafing fcene. From hence, Aran Ben-
ilyn is feen ftretching his black and

* Gi-bfon's Carndcn, p. 5^6.

t Fner:e Queene, be 6k I. canto vx,

M 2 jocky

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

rocky front beyond the upper end, and
again far beyond, in fainter colours, the
grand pointed fummits of Cader Idris
fill up the diftance.

I crofled the bridge, and, in an excur-
fion round the pool, proceeded along it's
eaftern edge. From near Llangower, a
pleafing vale was feen to open on the op-
pofite fide, bounded by mountains, and
clofed in at the end by one of the Are-
nigs.

I had pafled the end of the lake about
half a mile when I left the road, and
Went down a narrow lane which leads
to Llanwchllyn, the church above the lake ;
I foon afterwards entered the vale of
Twrch, and looking around me, Aran
Benllyn prefented one of it's naked,
craggy, and prominent cliffs, where it's
poor vegetation hung in a few tufts from
it's broken fides. Here the fcene pre-
fented was altogether that of nature in

her

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

her roughed attire, where rocks, heath,

mofs, and a few grafles, feemed almoft

the only component parts of the picture.

From hence I crofled the river Twrch,

X the burrower, and was fhewn by the
guide a piece of land, of confiderable
extent, that was nearly covered with in-
numerable mafles of broken rocks, which
had been carried there in the fuminerof
1782, by what the Welfh call Daear-

>( dor, a breaking of the earth. This is a
diflodgment of a vafl quantity of the
furface of the ground, and (as appears
to have been the cafe in the prefent in-
flance) fometimes of a confiderable tu-
mulus from the higheft mountains,
which feems to have been occafioned
by the burfting of clouds, wh'ofe vaft
contents being lodged in the hollows,
penetrate by degrees into the earth,
which, loofening the whole mafs, is
fwept down with the torrent, and gene-
rally

l6'6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

rally lodged in fome vale below. The
prefent accident happened after a thun-
der ftorm, on the soth of June, 1781,
when the river Twrch overflowed it's
banks in fuch a dreadful torrent, as to
fweep every thing before it. According
to the newfpaper-accounts no lefs than
feventeen houfes, ten cows, and a vafl
number of fheep, befides the foil of all
the meadows and corn-fields, in it's
courfe were deftroyed by it ; and this
meadow, in which the greater part of
the ftones were lodged, was fo heaped
with them, as to render it not worth the
trouble of clearing again for cultivation.
The dimenfions of fome of the ftones
borne here by the impetuofity of the tor-
rent are aftoniihing ; one was 19 feet
X long, 9 broad, and 6 high ; another 19^
feet by 7^, and 6 deep, was fplit by
linking upon another. Eight other
ftones, half thisfize, were carried half a

rrvile,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 167

2nile, and five bridges were fwept away
in the parifh. The inhabitants provi-
dentially received a timely alarm ; the
confequence of a few minutes d-elay
\yould have been the deitruction of the
whole village. The only perfon miffing
was a poor woman, who, being Tick in
bed, was drowned.*

On the fummit of a high and craesnr

(J **. s *.^ */

rock, at fome diftance from the road,
about a mile beyond Llanwchllyn, are
the remains of an ancient Britifh fort,
X called Caftell Corndochon. It's form
ieems to have been fomewhat oval, and
it has confifled of an oblong tower,
rounded at the extremity, and behind it
another that was fquare. Refpecting
this fortrefs, I have not met with a tingle
hiftorical fac~L

Returning I faw, on an eminence on
the left, near the head of the pool C-aer

* Pennant II. p. 87,

Gai,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Gai, where was formerly a fort belonging
to Cai Hir ap Cynyr, or, as Spenfer has
called him, Timon, the fatter-father of
King Arthur, who was educated here.*
It appears probable that the Romans had
here a fortrefs, as feveral of their coins
have, at different times, been dug up in
the neighbourhood. A ftone was alfo
dug up, which had on it this infcription :
" Hie jacet Salvianus Burfocavi felius
" Cupetian/'-f This place of defence
was erected, no doubt, to guard the pafs
through the mountains ; but, except the
above, hiftory has left us almoft as few
incidents relative to Caer Gai as to Caf-

tell Corndochon.

/
The Bull-Inn, at Bala, I found a moft

hofpitable houfe ; and I received there
the moft civil and attentive treatment
poflible.

* Spenfer's Faerie Queene, book I. canto ix,
•f Vaughan's fketch of the hiftory of Merionethfhire,
Camb. Reg. I. 191.

CHAP.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES

CHAP. X.

FROM BALA TO SHREWSBURY. — PONT

CYNWYD RHIWEDOG BATTLE, AT

PWL Y GELANEDD— TRUM Y SARN— FER>

WYN MOUNTAINS MILLTER GERRIG

LLANGYNOG SLATE QUARRIES ME-
THOD OF CONVEYING SLATES FROM, THE

MOUNTAINS — LEAD MINES LLAN-

RHAIADR YN MOCHNANT PISTYLL

RHAIADR LLANGEDWIN LLANY-

BLODWEL HALL — LLANYMYNECH < —

NESSCLIFFE MONTFORD BRIDGE

SHREWSBURY.

I NOW left Bala, and proceeded to-
wards Shrewibury, in my return to
Cambridge, the place from whence I
commenced my journey. The morn-
ing was fine, and nature was enlivened
by the fprightlinefs of every thing
around :

" And now and then fweet Philomel would wail,
Or ftockdoves 'plain, amid the foreft deep,

That drowfy ruftled to the fighing gale,
And ftill a coil the grafshopper did keep."

The

170 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALKS.

The pleafure attendant upon thefe
rural objects continued only for a few
miles, for I then had nothing to look
upon but a dreary fucceflion of open
moors; which, though for the fportfman
they might have an infinity of charms,
they afforded but little comfort to the
ton rift.

About a mile and a half from Bala, I
pafled a bridge called Pont Cynwyd ;
below which, the bed of the turbulent
little ftream is crowded with huge mafles
of rock, deeply excavated into circular
hollows, by the furious eddying of the
water which rages from above. In one
place thefe rocks, with the flream ru fil-
ing amongft them, form a fraall but
pleafing cafcade.

A little beyond Hands Rhivvedog, the X
abrupt afcent, an ancient family feat,
near which, in a vale, where there is ge-
nerally fome ftagnant water in the win-
4

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 171

ter, called Pwl y Gelanedd, the pool of
X the fain, was fought a moft fevere battle
betwixt the Britons and Saxons, in which
the aged Llywarch, taking an active part,
loft here his only furviving foil.

From the fide of a fteep, juft after I
entered the moors, I was prefented with
a diftant view of the vale of Edeirneon,
whofe verdure and fertility formed a
pleafmg contrail with my bleak and
dreary fituation. The road now led me
over Trum y Sarn, the caufeivay of the
.ridge, fo called from itjs being near a
lofty heath-clad mountain, which I here
pafled at a little di fiance on the right ;
one of the immenfe ridges extending
fifteen or fixteen miles in length, called
the Ferwyn Mountains. The two moft
elevated points are, Cader Ferwyn and
Cader Fronwen. I foon afterwards came
to a noted Bwlch, or pafs, which .divides
the counties of Merioneth and Mont-
gomery,

172 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

gomery, called Milltir Gerig, the Jlony
mile.

I now had a view into the curious and
romantic vale of Llangynog, fo com-
pletely enclofed on all fides by mountain
barriers, as apparently to afford no outlet
for the inhabitants below. The moun-
tai'ns are in many places almoft perpen-
dicular, and their cliffs not to be fcaled
by any thing, except the goats and fheep,
which browfe in the greateft fafety
upon their fteep and precipitous fides.
The bottom was interfperfed with the
houfes of fmall farmers, who there carry
on the procefs of cultivation with fome
care.

A tolei^bly good road took me from
the edge of this vale, by a defcent rather
fteep, firft into the hollow, and then to
the fmall and dirty village of Llangy-
nog, the Church of St. Cunog, on the
north fide of which rifes a moil ftupen-
5 dous

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 173

dous rock, on \vhofe fide feveral large
flate works are carried on. From hence,
betwixt November 1775 and Novem-
ber 1776, about 904,000 were fold at
different rates of between fix fhillings
and twenty fhillings a thoufand.* The
quarries are high in the mountain; and
I obferved, that the mode here of con-
veying them down was different from,
and apparently much more dangerous
than, that praclifed in the flate works
about, Llanberis near Caernarvon. Here
they are placed in a fmall fledge, which,
by a rope, is fattened to the fhoulders of
the man who has the care of conveying
it down, which is done along paths made
for the purpofe, which wind along the
fide of the mountain. He then begins
to defcend, his face towards it ; and, hav-
ing firm hold with his hands, the velo-
city which the fledge acquires in it'sde-

* Pennant's Tour, IT, 347.

fcent

17<|< A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

fcent is countera6led by the man's ftrik-
ing againfl the prominences with his
feet, which* fince he goes backwards,
find has at the fame time to keep the
fledge in it's track, mud he a very diffi-
cult tafk, and only to be acquired by
practice. The danger attending this
mode of conveyance I fhould think muft
be very great; but, upon enquiry at the
village, I was informed, that ferious ac-
cidents have been very feldom known to
occur.

At Craig y Mwyn, about two miles
and a half from Llangynog, in the year
1692, a vein of lead ore was difcovered,
which was found fo valuable, as to afford
to the Powys family a clear revenue of
twenty thoufand pounds a year for near
forty years; but, when they had \vorked
to the depth of a hundred yards, the
water broke in upon them, and became
fo powerful that they were obliged to

give

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 1J5

give it up.* Since that time the mines
have continued filled with water; but
fom'e gentlemen have lately determined
to attempt the recovery of them, and
for this purpofe intend to drive levels,
in order, if poflible, to cleat them once
more. There are beiides thefe fome
fmaller mines near the village, which
are at prefent worked : but, either from
want of fpirit, or want of ore, the pro-
duce, I was told, was very trifling.

On my leaving Llangynog, the rain
began to pour down in torrents; but
this village was fo poor a place that I
was determined to proceed. We are
generally able to find fome comfort in
the greateft misfortunes; and at pre-
fent I had certainly the pleafmg reflec-
tion, that it would tend to render the,
cataracl of Piftyll Rhaiadr, which I in-
tended to vifit the next morning, a

* Pennant, II. 54.7.

much

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

much more interefting fcene. This cir*
cumftance carried with it fo much com-
fort, that, being foon completely wetted,
I became entirely carelefs as to myfelf ;
and after that, the fafter and more hea-
vily the rain came down, the better I
was pleafed with it.

In this ftate it was that, after about
two hours flippery walking, and my
clothes dripping with wet, I arrived at
Llanrhaiadr, the Village of the Cataradt,
fituated, like the one I had juft left, in
a deep hollow, furrounded on all fides
by mountains, whole fummits were en-
tirely obfcured in clouds. This hollow
is called, for what reafon I know not,
Mochnant, the Vale of Pigs. The houfes
at Llanrhaiadr are irregular; but many
of them being old, and overgrown with
vegetation, give| it, from many points
of view, an appearance highly pictu-

refque.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 177

The inn, the Coach and Horfes, from
it's exterior promifed but little comfort ;
but I found to my fatisfaclion, that this
poor looking houfe afforded very toler-
able accomodations.

Dr. William Morgan, who firft tranf-
lated the bible into Welfh, was Vicar of
this place. He was afterwards reward-
ed with the Bimopric of LlandafF, and,
in 1601, with that of St. Afaph.

Piflyll Rhaiadr, the Spout oftbe Cata-
raft, the moft celebrated waterfall in
this part of the country, rufhes down the
front of an almoft perpendicular rock,
which terminates a vale, at the diftance
of about four miles from the village.
This vale is narrow and well wooded ;
it is watered by the little river Rhaiadr,
which forms a boundary line betwixt
Denbighfhire and Merionethfhire, and
flows from hence into the Tanat, and it
affords feyeral pleafing and beautiful

VOL. n. N fcerjes.

17$ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALE*.

fcenes. The upper part of the cataract,
when the fun fhinesupon it, is vifible to
a great diftance; and along this hollow,
it's filvery and linear appearance give an
odd fingularity to many of the views.

This cataract is upwards of two hun-
dred and ten feet high ; and, for near
two thirds of it's height, falls down the
flat face of a bleak, naked, and barren
rock; from thence it rages through a
natural arch, and betwixt two promi-
nent fides, into the imall bafon at it's
bottom. The whole Icene 5s deflitute of
wood ; but it is fo completely compofed
of fimple grandeur, that trees feemed as
if they would injure inftead of heighten
the effect. Near the foot of the rock is
a finall room, built, as I was informed
by Dr. Worthin'gton, the late Vicar, for
the ufe of the viiitors ; and it is found
very convenient for thofe who bring re-

fre/hmenfs along with them.

On

A TOUR HOUND NORTH WALES. 179

On leaving Llanrhaiadr, I proceeded
along a road, which goes thro-rvi nart
of the vale of Llangedwin. - I palled
Llangedwin Hall, a handlbme ftone
edifice, the property of Sir Watkin Wil-
liams Wynne ; this was a favou'ite re-
fidence of the late Sir Watkin, but it
is very feldom vifited by it's prefent
owner.

Llanyblodwell Hall, which is not far
from hence, was, in former times, when
the refidence of Gwervul Hael, a fre-
quent bardic theme.

I now arrived once more at Llanymy-
nech. Betwixt this village and Shr^wf-
bury I found but little entertainment;
this might, however, in a great meafure
be owing to the quantity of rain that
fell, which rendered the whole of this
part of my journey quite dreary and
uncomfortable. I could juil perceive,
through the thicknefs of the mift, the
N a Breidcliu

Breiddin hills, whofe fummits, entirely
obfcured in clouds, were a few miles on
the right. At about the half way, I
patted under a high rock of red freefione,
called Nefs Cliff; and foon afterwards
faw by the road fide a fmall building,
from which feveral boys were coming,
which had over the door this fmgular
infcription:

God profper long this public good,
A fchool ere&td where a chapel flood.

In what this originated I did not learn.
I croffed the Severn at Montford
bridge; and, in about an hour after-
wards^ ended my pedeftrian excurfion
at the town of Shrewlbury ; and I pro-
ceeded the next day to the place from
whence my journey had been com-
menced.

CHAP.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. l8l

CHAP. XL

SHREWSBURY HISTORY CHARTERS—

C ASTLE- — W A L LS FREESCHOOL

INFIRMARY MILLINGTON*S HOSPITA L

ABBEY THE QUARRY ORPHAN

HOUSE RELIGIOUS HOUSES — -

CHURCHES PARLIAMENTS B A T TLE

OF SHREWSBURY SWEATING SICK-
NESS SIEGE.

SHREWSBURY* is an ancient town,
feated on a floping ground, and nearly
furrounded by the Severn. It was
once the capital of Powifland, and the
feat of feveral of the princes. The pe-
riod in which the town arofe, is not
known with any degree of certainty ;
but it is fuppofed to have been on the
ruin of the Roman Uriconwni, the Vreken
Ccafler of the Saxons, and the modern

* The moft material parts, of the following account of ;his
town, have been taken from Mr. Pennant, the reafon for
which I have ftated in the preface.

Wrox-

182 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Wroxeter, a village upon the Severn,
about four miles diftant.* The Welfh
called it Pen Gwern, the head of the Al-
der-Groves, and the Saxons Scrobbes
Byrig, on account of the hill on which
it ftoocl b. ing covered with wood.

" In the time of William the Con-
" queror, this city, (for fa it was then
" called) paid yearly feven pounds,
" fixteen (hillings and eight pence,
" deGablo;^ they were reckoned to he
" two hundred and fifty two citizens^
" whereof twelve of the better fort were
" bound, to watch about the Kings of
" England, when they lay in this city,
" and as many to attend them with
*' horfes and arms, when they went
«' forth a hunting. Which lali fervice,
«' the learned Camden believes, was or-

* Gibfon's Camdeii, p. 546. f As a cuftom.
J Mr. Pennanr, II. 395, has it 25 a houfes, hut this mufl
!jave been a flip of the pen, as both Blount and Camden, are
igainft him,

" dained^

A TOUR HOUND NORTH WALES. 183

*' dained, becaufe not many years before
" Edric Streon, Duke of the Mercians,
" a man of great impiety, lay in wait
" near this place for Prince Af helm, and
" barbaroufly murdered him, as he rode
" a hunting/'

In former reigns, this town has
been favoured with feveral royal char-
ters, the firfl that is extant, was granted
in 1189, by Richard I. in which all it's
ancient cuftoms and privileges were con-
firmed, granting to the burgeffes, the
town and all it's appurtenances, which
had been feized by Henry I. on the
forfeiture of Robert, Earl of Shrewf-
bury, but it was not till the reign of
Elizabeth, that it was made corporate.
This latter charter was confirmed and
enlarged by Charles!. The corpora-
tion now confifts of a Mayor, twenty

* Blount's Tenures, p. : 1 1 , where are quoted
tit. Sciropefcire, and CamJen's Britannia.

four

184 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

four Aldermen, and forty eight afliftants,
called the Common Council. They have
alfo a Recorder, two Chamberlains, a
Steward, Sword-bearer, and three Ser-
jeants at Mace. The town fends two
members to parliament.

The caftle, of which not much of the
ancient parts are left, Hood on the neck
of the peninfula, formed by the Severn,
and has been lately repaired and moder-
nized. The Keep was on a large artifi-
cial mount, which fhews it to have been
of Saxon or Britifh origin, notwithftand-
ing it's foundation has been afcribed to
Roger de Montgomery, the great Earl of
Shrewfbury.

It continued in the pofleflion of the
two fons of the founder, till the reign
of Henry I. when he took it into his own
hands. After it was difmantled in the
civil wars, it was granted by Charles IL
to Francis, Lord Vifcount Newport, af-
terwards

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 185

terwards Earl of Bradford, and fome-
time after this period, it got into the
poflefiion of the Pulteney family.

Robert de Belefme, was the firft who
attempted to defend the town by walls,
this he did, by building from each fide
of the caftle, acrofs the Ifthmus, in order
tofecuie it againfl the attacks of Henry
I.* It was not however till 1219, that
a regular wall was begun, and this even
then, from want of mony, went on fo
flowly, that it was thirty two years be-
fore it was finimed.

The ftreets of Shrewfbury are very
irregular, and many of the buildings
ancient, but it has been much improved
of late years. The many advantages
it pofiefies, have induced feveral families
of North Wales, to make it their win-
ter refidence.

* Gibfcij's Camdcn, p. 5^6.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The free fchool, which Hands in a
broad and handfome ftreet, near the caf-
tle, was originally built of wood and
founded by Edward VI. in 1552. The
prefent handfome ftruc~iure, was erected
about forty years afterwards, it contains
the fchool, houfes for the Matters, and a
library, which contains a valuable col-
lection of books and federal curiofities.

The infirmary, which has nothing
very remarkable in it's appearance, was
opened in April, 1747.

Inflead of the old Welfh bridge, on
which ftood the ftatue of Richard, Duke
of York, and which was defended by
gates and towers, a fine ftruclure has
within thefe few years been raifed, much
more beautiful and convenient.

On an eminence above Frankwel, a
fuburb beyond the bridge, ftands Mil-
lington's hofpital, a handfome brick
building, founded in 17340 by the will

of

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 387

of Mr. James Miilington, formerly a
draper, who lived in this place. It main-
tains twelve poor houfekeepers, (jingle
perfons) and a cnarity fchool, for twenty
bovs and twenty girls, all from the diftrict
of Frankwel, if fuch are to be found
there, and if not, thofe from the neareft
part of the parifh of St. Chad.

Not far from the new Bridge, flood
the Abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul,
founded in 1083, by Roger, Earl of
Shrewfbury, and his Countefs Adeliffa.
It's monks, were Benedi6lines from
Seez, in Normandy, and the Earl with
the permiffion of his lady, became him-
felf, one of the religious of his own ab-
bey. He endowed it largely and encou-
raged every one who held under him,
to do the fame ; he died in 1094, and
was interred here. Robert, the fourth
abbot, procured with infinite difficulty,
and enriched the abbey, with the rflics

of

l88 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

of St. Wenefrede, and enlhrined them
much to the emolument of his houfe.
The revenues at the ^difiblution were
eftimated, according to Dugdale, at only
a hundred and thirty two pounds, four
{hillings and ten pence ; but Speed, with
much more probability, makes them
five hundred and fifteen pounds, four
fhillings and three pence. Queen Eli-
zabeth, made the church parochial,
which was called St. Crux, or, the Holy
Crofs, in the abbey of Shrewfbury. It
ftill retains the name, but fince that
time, has undergone great alterations.

The Francifcans, had a houfe a little
to the fouth of the new Bridge, not
far from the town walls. It was found-
ded by defire of Hawyfe, daughter of
Owen ap Gryffydd, Prince of Powys,
and wife to John Charlton, Lord of
Powys, fometime before 1353. At the
diflblution, it was granted to Richard

Andrews,

A TOUR ROUNP NORTH WALES. 189

Andrews, and Nicholas Temple. The
remains were fitted up into a private
houfe.

A little farther is that beautiful walk
the Quarry, bordering on the river, and
planted with rows of trees. It is the
property of the corporation, and the
pafturage part, is let to the inhabitants,
and the profits diftributed to the bur-
gefles.

On a lofty bank, oppofite to thefe
walks, is feated a fine brick building,
called the Orphan Houfe, which was be-
gun in the year 1760, and defigned to
receive part of the foundlings from the
great Hofpital in London ; but on the
decline of that, this building became
ufelefs for that purpofe: it was after-
wards made a place of confinement for
prifoners of war.

The houfe of Augufline Friars flood
beyond the Quarry, clofe to the river.

According

10,0 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

According to Leland it was founded
by one of the StafFords.

In this place there was alfo a Monaf-
tery of Dominicans, or Black Friars; the
foundation of which is afcribed to
Maud, Lady Genevil, wife of Jeffry,
Lord Genevil, who lived in the reigns
of Henry III. and Edward I.

Moft of the parochial churches of
Shrewfbury are of great antiquity. St.
Chad was founded before the Norman
Conqueft, probably by the Saxons, foon
after the expulfion of the Welfh. In
1393, the old church was burnt down,
by the careleflnefs of one of the work-
men. The fellow feeing the mifchief he
had done, ran home, put fome money in
his pocket, and, attempting to efcape,
was drowned in fording the river near
the ftone bridge. This church has been
lately rebuilt, in a highly ornamented
manner, but it's rotunda, and other de-
cora-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES*

corations, give one more the idea of a
place of amufement, than of religious
worifhp.

St. Mary's and St. Alcmund's, are
both remarkable for their handfome
fpires. The firft is faid to have been
founded by King Edgar ; and the other
by the heroine Elfleda.

The church, which is faid to be the
mod ancient, is that of St. Giles, feated
on the fkirt of the fuburbs beyond the
abbey. In Boomfday it is called the
PariPn of the City ; and it is now annex-
ed to the church of the Holy Crofs, or
the abbey.

Parliaments have been holden in this
town. The firft fummoned formally by
writ, met on the isth. of September,
1283, by which David, the brother of
Llewelyn, Prince of Wales, was tried
and condemned. Ke was the firft who
fuifered .the death of a traitor, in the
4 form

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES*

form of the fentence, now in ufe ; which
he underwent in it's fulleft exrent.
Another parliament was holden here
in January, 1397 ; and it was called the
great parliament, on account of the
number of people, aifembled in it.
Kere Richari II. obtained a ftretch of
power unknown before, and by a ftrange
conceffion obtained, that the whole pow-
er of the nation fhould devolve on the
King, twelve peers, and fix commoners.*
A bull from the Pope was thought ne-
cefiary, to confirm fo irregular a pro-
ceeding.

Of the military tranfaclions relative
to this place, the mod noted was, the
important battle in July, 1403, which is
beft known by the name of, the battle of

* The names of thecomnnffioners were, the Dukes of Lan-
cafler, York, Albemarie, Surrey and Exeter; the Marquis
of Dorfet; the Earls of March, Saliibury, Northumberland,
Gloucefter, Winchefter and Wihlhire j John BuflVy, Henry
Green, John Rufitl, Robert Teyac, Henry Chelmefwicke,
and John Colofre.

Shrewf-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES, 1$$

Shrewfbury, between Henry IV. and
Henry Percy, furnamed Hotfpur. It
was the defign of the inf argents, of the
North, to make themfelves matters of
this town, and ftrengthen their forces
by a junction with Owen Glyndwr, and
h s countrymen ; but Henry, by his acti-
vity, prevented this junction and faved
his crown ; for coining up with Percy's
army at this town, the high fpirit of that
hero, would not fuffer him to await the
arrival of Glyndwr, who was encamped
at Ofweftry, but he ventured an action
with his own fmall forces. The fight

D

began early in the morning, and after
the moft violent contention, for about
three hours, Percy's party was routed,
and himfelf and about five thoufand
men flain. The Earls of Worcefter
and Douglas were taken prifoners, the
former of whom was beheaded at
Shrew (bury. The fpot on which this
VOL. ii. O battle

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

battle was fought, feems to have been
Battlefield, in the parilh of Albrighton,
about three miles diftant.*

It is affirmed that Henry VII. brought
with the army, that landed in Wales,
a fpecies of malady unknown in any
other age or nation, called the fw eating
ficknefs, which after raging for upwards
of fixty years in the kingdom, and carry-
ing off many thoufands of his fubjecls,
at laft ended in this town, in the year
1551, where it had juft before raged fo
terribly, as to take off no lefs than nine
hundred and ninety perfons, in the
courfe of a very few days. It began
with a violent perfpiration, which ne-
ver left the patient till it deftroyed him
or he recovered. Such as were affecled
by it, ufually died or recovered within
the fpacc of twenty four hours, if taken
ill in the day, the patient was to be put to

, * Gibfen's Camden, p. 547.

bed

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 195

bed in his clothes, and wait the event.
Thofe who were feized in the night,
were to remain in bed, but by no means
to ileep.* The most eminent phyficians
of the time, were puzzled as to the caufe
of this ftrange complaint ; it however
feems to have originated among the
foreign levies, of the Duke of Rich-
mond, which were raked out of hofpi-
tals and gaols, buried in filth, and then
crowded on board the tranfports, and
conveyed hither.

In the civil wars, Shrewfbury was
garrifoned for the King, and Sir Mich-
ael Earnly was made Governor. Ge-
neral Mytton made two unfuccefsful at-
tempts, but in February, 1644, he at-
tacked it fo vigoroufly, that it was fur-
rendered to him, on condition that the
I rim Ihould be given up, and that the

* Gibfon's Caoiden, p. 547.

O 2 Englifh

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Unglifh fhould march to Ludlow. Crowe,
the lieutenant, was afterwards hanged
for his treachery or cowardice. The
governor, and feveral perfons of rank in
the country, were taken prifoners, and
the town was plundered. Mytton was
foon after the fiege made Governor, and
received the thanks of the houfe for his
good fervices.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALKS. 397

CHAP. XII,

THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE

WELSH ACCOUNT GIVEN BY GIRAL-

DUS CAMBRENSIS ROYAL HOUSEHOLD

IN THE TENTH CENTURY EXTRACTS

FROM THE WELSH LAWS SINGULAR

RECOMPENCE FOR SEDUCTION— C O M-
PENSATIONS FOR MURDER AND AF-
FRONTS FEUDAL TENURES AND VAS-
SALAGE THE ASSACH METHOD OF

HUNTING LAWS OF THE CHASE

GAMES PRESENT MANNERS CURIO-
SITY— SU PERSTITIONS KNOCKERS- —

SINGULAR RELIGIOUS CUSTOMS

MODE OF COURTSHIP WEDDINGS

FUNERALS OFFERINGS THE DIOD-

LYS OBSERVATIONS ON MR. PRATT — »

CLERGY.

1 HE manners of the Welfh people
have had many fmgular and finking
features, from the earlier! • periods of
their hiftory. Driven into this obfcure

corner,
4

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

corner, near fourteen centuries ago, they
have, from the mountainous nature of
their country, and their own difpofitions,
been ever fince almofl entirely fecluded
from all commerce with their neigh-
bours, and prevented from fettling any
connexions with them. They, therefore,
\ve find, prejudiced in favour of their
own inftitutions, and their own cufloms,
retained many of them for feveral cen-
turies afterwards. From their feclufion
they alfo contracted new, and different
habits, different modes of life, and many
other cufloms which remained, long un-
known to their neighbours, fome of thefe
have been tranfmitted to us, by their
bards, and others by their hiftorians.

Sylvefter Giraldus Cambrenfis,* Arch-
deacon of St. David's and Brecknock,

who,

* He was of noble Flemifh parents, and born near Tenby,
in Pembrokefhire, in 1 145. He was fecretary to Henry II.

tutor

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

who, in the year 1187, travelled through
Wales, his native country, with Bald-
win, Archbiihop of Canterbury, to
preach, the crufades has left us, though
mingled with much fuperftition, and
many of thofe incredulous ftories, which
were common in thofe dark ages, a very
accurate detail of the character of the
Welfli people.

Pride of anceftry and nobility, were,
he fays, at that time, points held by them
in the higheft eflimation ; and fo deeply
rooted was this fpirit, that even the very
loweft of the people, carefully preferved
the genealogy of their families, and
were able from memory, to recite the
names of their aiiceftors, for feveral ge-
nerations.

tutor to King John, and afterwards made Bifhop of St.
David's. He wrote aa Irifh and Wclfh Itinerary, and other
works. He died, and was buried at St. David's, about the
age of feventy.

They

•20O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

They were keen in their refentments,
and revenged moft deeply any infult,
committed on their family. They were
vindictive and bloody in their anger,
and too prompt to avenge, not only re-
cent injuries, but even thole committed
at very remote periods.

They did not in general refide in ci-
ties, villages, or camps, but led folitary
lives in the woods. On the borders of
their forefts, the lower clafs formed their
dwellings, by twifted ozier coverings,
fuited to the different feafons of the year,
but with as little art, as expence.

They had no beggars in their whole
country, for their hofpitality was extend-
ed to every one. They efteemed liberali-
ty, and particularly hofpitable entertain-
ment, as preferable to every other vir-
tue. By a mutual return of civilities,
this habit was fo common, that when-
ever a traveller entered a houfe, upon

deliver-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 2O1

del-vering his arms to the guard, fomc
of the domeftics brought a vefiel of wa-
ter to him; and fuch was the cuftom,
that if he fuffered his feet to be wafhed,
he was confidered as a lodger for the
night. The offering of water was their
mode of invitation; but, if he refufed
this kindnefs, he was confidered only as
defiring a morning's recreation.

The llrangers who arrived in the
morning were entertained through the
whole day, and till the evening, with
the converfation of young women, and
the mufic of the harp, for almoft ever}'
houfe was provided with both of thefe ;
from whence it appears, fays Giraldus,
that this people were not, like the Irifh,
given tojealoufy. Every tribe or family
pofTefled the fidll of playing upon the
harp beyond any kind of learning; and
the Welfh altogether excelled, in the
wit and ingenuity of their fongs, an4

2O2 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

extemporaneous effuftons of genius, all
the other Weftern nations.

In the evening, the ftrangers being
all afiembled, an entertainment was pro-
vided for them, according to their num-
ber and rank, and according to the abi~
lity of the hoft. The kitchen was not
loaded with much profufion, nor with de-
licacies, or with incentives to gluttony;
nor had they tables, table-linen, or nap-
kins: nature was always ftudied more
than fplendor.

The guefts were placed by threes at
fupper, and the difhes were placed on
green and frefh rufhes. They had alfo
thin and broad cakes of bread, that were
always baked the fame day,

At the fame time that the whole fa-
mily, with a kind of emulation in their
civilities, were waiting on the guefts,
the hofl and hoflefs in particular always
remained {landing, that they might

overlook

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 203

overlook the whole, and fee that none of
the difhes were taken away till evcrj
one had finifhed ; fo that if any one had
not fufficient, it might be his own fault.
When the hour of reft approached,
a large hed of rufhes, thinly fpread, and
covered with a hard and rough cloth,
the produce of the country,* was ranged
lengthways along the fides of the room.
On this they ( all laid down together, in
the fame drefs they had worn during
the day, which confided of a fhirt and
fmall cloak. The fire was always kept
burning at their feet during the night;
and either when they found themfelves
ftarved, or the bed uneafy, from it's
hardnefs, they hafled to it, to feek a re-
medy againft thofe inconveniences :
then, returning again to their bed, they
alternately prefented one fide to the
cold, and the other to the hardnefs.

\ , * This was called Brjcban, or plaid, the fame with the
BIO re ancient Bracka.

Both

20.J, A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Both fcxesof this nation took particu-
lar care in preferving their teeth. Thefe
they kept perfectly white, by continu-
ally rubbing them with a green haze!
and a woollen cloth; and what tended
much to their prefervation, they invari-
ably abftained from every kind of hot
food, ufmg only fuch-as was cool and
temperate.

The men, who were chiefly occupied
in military affairs, fhaved their beards,
.leaving only a whifker above their up- X"
per lip. The youth went by clans and
families, with their chief at their head ;
and they were fo prompt in the defence
of their country, that they were per-
mitted to enter the houfes of every per-
fon with the fame fecurity as their own.*

In the time of Howel Dda, How el the
Good, about nine hundred years ago, and
near three hundred before the time of
Giraldus Cambrenfis, the royal manfion

* Girauld, Carob. Dcfcript. Cambria:, Cap. X, XI.

confided

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 2O£

confifted merely of a noyadd, or hall;
an yfdaf ell, or parlour ; and a bwy thy,
or buttery; an yfdable, or liable; a cyn-
hordy, or dog-kennel ; and an yfgubaur,
or granary ; an odyn, oven or bake-
houfe ; a tybychan, or little houfe ; and
a hundy, or bed room.*

The fire-pan was of iron, and the fuel
of wood ; and the bed was only of draw,
as it continued to be, even in the royal
bed-chambers of England, till fo late
as the conclufion of the thirteenth cen-
tury. The King's oxvn drefs was a man-
tle and tunic, fhirt, breeches, fhoes,
(lockings, and gloves, and a cap of fkins.
The Queen's was nearly the fame, dif-
fering only in her having fillets under
her cap.

The great officers of the court were,
Pen~teulu,the Mayor of the Palace ; Ef-

* Leges Wallicoe, Lib. I. C. 47. From thefe law ,
<v-hich were founded fometime betwixt (he years 94.0 and
950, much of the following account is t?ken.

feirad-

A T©UR ROUND NORTH WALES.

feirad-teulu, the Domeflic Chaplain;
Y Dyfclain, the Steward of the Houfe-
hould ; Pen-hebogydd, the Head Fal-
coner, or Matter of the Hawks;* and
Braw dur Llys, the Court Juftitiary ;
1'en-gwafdrawd, the Prefident of the
Grooms; Pencynydd, the Chief Huntf-
nian ; Gwas Yfdafell, or the Lord Cham-
berluin, whofe place it was to make the
King's bed ;-Dyfdein Yvrenhines, Stew-
ard of the Houfe to the Oueen ; Effeirad

»*w

Yvrenhines, the Queen's Chaplain;
Bardd-teulu, 6r the Court Poet; Gof-
degwr, or the King's Sergeant, who had
to command filence in the King's hall
at dinner, by flriking on a particular pil-
lar; Dryfawr Yneuadd, the Door-keeper

* When the Matter of the Hawks gave any entertainment
in his private apartment?, he was entitled to three horns of
the bcft liouor, and one difh ; but he was cautioufly reqaired
to bring his cup in perfon to the hall at every repletion of it,
kft he (houK) <3fink too much anJ ncgleft his birds.

Of

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 207

of the Hall; Dryfawr Yr Yftafell, the
Door-keeper of the Chamber; Pen-
eenydd, or the Mafter of the King's
Hounds; Meddwyd,the King's Cellarer;
Meddyg, or the Phyfician to the Houfe-
hold; Trulliad, or the Butler; Dry-
fawr, or the Porter,* who had to provide
ftraw for all the beds, and to kindle all
the fires in the court ; the Cog, or Cook ;
the Cantrwllyd, the Curator of Lights;
Morwyn Yfdafell, the Chambermaid ;
Gwaftrawd Avwyn, the Groom of the
Rein; Troedawc, the Footholder; and
Gwaftrawd Avwyn Yvrenhines, the
Groom of the Rein to the Queen.

In this eftablifhment we fee the head
of the falconers, the chief of the grooms,
the poet laureat, and the cook, all ranked

* Of the fwine that paffed through the gate, he was to have,
as a perquifite, any fow that he could lift by the bridles with
one hand, fo that her feet fhould be as high as his knees.
And every animal without a tail paffing through the gate.
was his property, Leget Wall*

im-

2O8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

immediately amongft the great officers
of ftate. Such a precedence was natu-
rally given them in a court, generally
devoted, as all originally were, and as in
all illiterate ages ever will be, to the
pleafures of the feaft and the diverfions
of the chace.

In the abfence of the King, the au-
thority of the court was vefted in the
Domeftic Chaplain, the Steward of the
Houfehold, and the Judge of the Palace,
conjointly.

Their different ranks in fociety were,
Brenin, or Teyrn, the King ; Twyfog, or

r- —

Duke; Jarll,orEarl; Arglwydd,or Lord;
Barwn, or Baron ; Uchelwr, or Squire ;
Gwr-eang, or Yeoman ; Alltud, or Vai-
fal; and, laft of all, the Caeth, or Slave.
The King had referved to him, the
right of commanding every perfon to
join his army ; and once a year, if it were
neceffary, to go with him out of the

country ;

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 209

country; but, in his own country, he
had the power of calling them together
whenever he pleafed.

If a neceflitous perfon, exiled, and
without the power of returning, patted
three nights and three days without
lodging, and without receiving any alms,
and in that time went through three
townmips, having nine houfes in each
town [hip ; if he Was, after that time*
impelled by hunger to commit theft, no
perfon could have redrefs againil him.

A Welfhman, \)y both parents, having
no debaled blood in him, was accounted
a free native gentleman.

If a villain took the fon of a Baron,
having the father's confent, to bring him
up and take cafe of him, that child was
a participator in the inheritance of the
villain, in the fame manner as his own
children.

voi.-. iju P There

210 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

There were three fcierices which a
villain could not teach his fon without
the confent of his Lord ; fcholarfhip,
bardifm, and fmithcraft.* But if the
Lord fuflfered him to ftudy any one of
them for a certain time, he was hy that
means made free, and could no longer
be ranked with the villains.

The Welfh had alfo two fingular laws ;
one of which was, that if any perfon
killed the cat that was about the King's
palace, (he was to be taken by the tail,
and her head touching the floor, fo
much wheat was to be forfeited for the
offence, as being thrown round her,
would cover the tip of her tail ; the
other, that if a dog accuftomed to bite

* This was one of the liberal fciences : the term had a
rpore comprehenfive fenfe than we give to it at this time j
and the artift mutt have united in his own mind different
branches of knowledge, which are now praftifed feparately,
fu«h as railing the ore, and converting it into metal.

See Camb. Reg. II. 351.

people.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 211

people, had done it three times, and after
that his owner had neglected to kill him,
he was to be tied to the foot of his mafter,
and not at a greater length than two fpans,
and in that manner to be killed. Three
cows were alfo to be paid, as a fatisfac-
tion for the wrong, to the King.*

The females employed fo much of
their time in fpinning, that the fpindle
became, not long afterwards, the fymbol
of the fex, and an eftate devolving to the
female line, was formally faid, by law, to de-
fcend to the diftaff.-f- And thus engaged,
the Britifh virgin was declared mar-
riageable at the age of fourteen. £ The
lover addrefled himfelf to the father of
the maid ; and, if he agreed to the mar-
riage, he introduced his daughter to the
fuitor : a few days concluded the fuit ;

* Leges Wallicz.

t Hence the origin of the term fpinjler for an unmarried
woman.
% Leges WallScse, Lib. II. c. I.

P 2 for

212 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

for the abfolute authority of the father
took away all power of refufal from the
daughter; and, if fhe difliked the lover
whom he had recommended, fhe had no
other refource, than the tears of entreaty,
or the dangers of flight.*

The recompence to a virgin who had
been feduced was very fingular: — On
complaint made, that fhe was deferted
by her lover, it was ordered by the
court, that {lie was to lay hold of the tail
of a bull of three years old, introduced
through a wicker door, and (haven and
well greafed. Two men were to goad
the beafl ; and, if fhe could, by dint of
ftrength, retain the bull, fhe was to have
_-}t by way of fatisfaclion ; but if not, fhe
got nothing but thegreafe that remained
in her hands. From this, and other pe-
nalties for the fame offence, I fear that

* Whitakrr's Hiftory of Manchefter, II. 136.

the

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 213

the crime was not held by them to be of
a very deep dye.

For lefier injuries they had pecuniary
atonements. A Welfhman for the lofs
of his finger received one cow and twen-
ty pence; for his nofe, fix oxen and a
hundred and twenty pence ; and for being
pulled by the hair, a penny for every fin-
ger, and two pence for the thumb, the
inftruments of infult. The Saxons had
iimilar fines; and the Normans, like
perfons of nice honour, provided a pe-
nalty of five fous for a pull by the nofe ;
and ten, pour un coup au derriere*

A compenfation for the murder of a
Mayor or Chancellor was nine fcore and
nine cows ; of the chief of a family, it
was thrice that number; and of a King's
villain, it was three fcore and three;
and a pound and a half was a fatisfac-

* Pennant, I. 290, who quotes Leges Wallicze.

tion

214 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

tion for the murder of a found-bodied
flave.*

The Britifh Princes, and other Lords
of particular territories, were owners
in capite^ of all their lands, and fovereign
Lords of all their fiibjecls and bondf-
men, to whom they diftributed feveral
townfhips and hamlets, to be holden by
particular tenures, and fubjecl to fuch
terms and conditions as the beftowers
thought fit to impofe. Thefe tenants
were either free natives, or the better
fort of vaflals, or they were perfect
flaves. The free natives were thofe who
had fome degree of freedom, who might
go where they pleafed, had the power
of buying and felling, and pofTefled fe-
veral immunities ; but the others formed
part of the property of their Lords, and
could be difpofedof as they pleafed. They

* Leges Wallicae.

•f Or in chief, holding their lands as tenants under the
Kine, or Prince of the country.

had

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 215

had the power of felling them and their
offspring, as they would cattle, from
their eftates, and this cuftom remained
in the townfhip of Porthaethwy, in An-
glefey, for many years after the reign
of the Welm princes.* Mr. Pennant,
in his Tour,-f has inferted a copy of a
deed of fale, of feven of them, with their
families, which was given fo lately as
the year 1448.

The tenants, both free and bond, were
fubje6l to feveral fervices, which they
were obliged to perform. They were
not only compellable to attend the King
in his wars ; but they were under the
neceffity of attending their Lords, when
engaged in their petty contentions,
fome for a limited time, and only to par-
ticular places ; but others indefinitely
to any place, and at their own coil.

* Rowland's Mona Antiqua Reftaurata, p. 121, 122.
t Vol. II. p, 241,

Certain

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Certain of them had to maintain the
Prince's fteward, his horfes and cattle,
his falconers and hawks, &c. In the
building of houfes or mills, fome from
their tenures were obliged to carry
the ftones, others timber, fome to repair
the roofs, and fome the walls. Some
had alfo to repair the wears, others to
hedge the warrens, and others alfo to at-
tend the offices of the larder or kitchen.*
Befides thefe tenures, there were cer-
tain lands, that were not holden under
any Lord or Prince, but of Saints, or
patrons of churches, where the tenants
called themfelves Abbots. Of thefe
there were no lefs than feven in the
Ifle of Anglefea, that were entitled in
eapite tofeveral tenures, viz. St. Breuno,
St. Cybi, St. Cadwaladr, St. Peirio, St.
Cyngar, St. Machutus or Mechell, and
St. Elian.f

* Rowland 'sMona, p. 137, 129. t Ibid, p. 133.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 217

The barbarous cuftom of exempting
from capital punifhment, even the moft
atrocious afiaffin, by payment of a fine,
was retained much longer in this coun-
try than in any part of Britain. It was
pra6tifed by the Lord Marchers in tlie
fifteenth century, and continued infome
parts of Merionethfhire till the latter
end of the reign of Henry VIII. when
it was entirely abolifhed.*

The Welfh had, prior to the reign of
Jlenry V. a cuftom, called the Ass ACM,
by which it was neceiTary to have the
oath of three hundred men, before a
perfon could be cleared who was accufed
of any crime. Before it's abolition by
this monarch, an EnglHhman was liable
to continue in gaol for life, as it feeins
impoflible for one of our hated nation to
-procure even a far lefs number of com-
purgators than this flrange law required

* Pennant's Tour, I. 288.

for

2l8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

for his acquittal. Henry made the at-
tempt penal, and the profecutor liable to
an imprifonment for two years, to pay
treble damages, and to pay befide a fine
and ranfom before he could be releafed.*

The Welfli, who followed the plea-
fares of the chace with great avidity, had
feveral animals which were the objects of
their purfuit. Of thefe were, the flag;
the bear ; a fwarm of bees ; the falmon ;
T Dringbedydd; climbing animals, pro-
bably wild cats, martins, and fquirrels;
the cock of the wood ; the fox ; the hare ;
and the roe. Some of thefe come very
improperly under our idea of hunting;
yet were , comprehended in the code of
laws relative to the diverfion formed,
as is fuppofed, by Gryffydd ap Cynan.

The method of hunting, was with ei-
ther hounds or greyhounds, which they
held in leafhes, and let flip at the ani-

* Pennant, I. 389,

K mals.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 21$

mals. It was not allowed for any per-
fon to kill an animal of the chace, on
it's form or at reft, on pain of forfeiting
his bow and arrow to the Lord of the
Manor. When feveral greyhounds, the
property of different perfons, were let
flip at any animal, the perfon, whofe
dog was neareft the beaft when it was
lafl in fight, was entitled to the fldn.
A bitch was excepted, unlefs it was
proved, that fhe was pregnant by a dog
which had before won a (kin.

Every perfon who carried a horn,
was to give a fcientific account of the
nine obje6ls of the chace. If he was
not able to do this, he was looked upon
as a pretender, and forfeited his horn.

The Chief Huntfman was the tenth
officer in the court. At a certain time
of the year, he was to hunt for the King
only; but, at other feafons, he was per-
mitted to hunt for himfelf. - His horn

was

22O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

was that of an ox of a pound value. He
had in winter an ox's hide, to make
Jeaflies; and in fummer a cow's, to cut
into fpatterdafhes.

The King had liberty to hunt where-
ever he pleafed ; but, if a bead was
killed on any gentleman's eftate, and
not followed and claimed by the huntf-
man that night, the owner of the land
might convert it to his own ufe; but he
was to take gopd care of the dogs, and
preferve the (kin.

The penalty for killing one of the
King's tame flags was a pound, and a
certain fine ; if a wild one was killed,
betwixt a certain day in November and
the feaft of St. John, it's value was fixty
pence ; but the fine for killing it, a hun-
dred and eighty. A flag was reckoned
equal in value to an ox; a hind to a
well-grown cow, a roe to a goat, and
wild low to a tame fow. A badger had

no

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 221

no value, becaufe in fome years it was
meafled : wolves, foxes, and other nox-
ious animals, had no value, becaufe every
perfon was allowed to kill them ; and
there was none fet upon a hare for this
very fmgular reafon, becaufe it was be-
lieved every other month to change it's
fex.*

The Welfh had anciently twenty-
four games, mod of which were well cal-
culated to render them that hardy and
warlike nation they have proved them-
felves. Of thefe, the firft were the fix
feats of activity: — running; leaping;
fwimming; wreftling; riding, or feats in
chariots of war ; and difplay of ftrength,
in fupporting and hurling weights, fuch
as pitching the bar, or a large itone, and
throwing the fledge, or quoits.

Then the four exercifes of weapons :
archery, throwing the javelin, and to
hurl with a fling; fencing with a fword

* Pennant, II. 127, 128, f*p. and

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES*

and buckler; fencing with a two-handed
fvvord ; and playing with the quarterftaflf.

The three rural fports ; — ^hunting ;
iifhing; .and hawking.

The feven domeftic and literary
games: — poetry; playing on the harp ;
reading Welfh ; fmging a fong with
the harp and Crwth ; fmging an ode in
four parts with accentation ; heraldry ;
and embafly.

The four inferior games : — chefs ;
draughts, and fhuffleboard ; dice, or bach
gammon;* and tuning the harp.-f

From ancient, I will now defcend to
modern times, from that hardy race of
warlike characters, which were with fo
much difficulty fubdued by the Englifh
monarchs, to their prefent peaceful Hate,

* Our prefent game of back-gammon feems to have been
taken from this; it's name being evidently derived from the
Ericiih words bach and gammon* which fignify a little battle
or con left.

* jor.cs's Welfh Bards, p. 36.

in

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 223

in which they enjoy happinefs, that, in
feudal times, they never experienced.

In thofe mountainous, or fecluded
parts of the country, that are fcarcely
known to the Englifh tourift, where their
manners ftill retain the greateft degree
of originality, the lower clafs of the in-
habitants appear to pofiefs an innocence
and fimplicity of character, unknown in
the populous parts of our own country;
and amongft thefe it is, that we are to
fearch for that native hofpitality, fo
much boafted of by the Welfh wri-
ters: but, wherever the Englifh have
had frequent communication, from their
being in general fo profufe of their mo-
ney, and from the temptation that this has
afforded to praclife impofitions on them,
I have found the people but little differ-
ing from the like clafs amongft us. On
the great roads, they feem to take a pride in
over-reaching, in moft of their little bar-
gains,

£24 A TOUR ROUND NORtH WALES.

gains, their Saxon neighbours, as they
denominate the Englifh. A Welfh gen-
tleman informed me, (and in many in-
ftances I have experienced it's truth)
that it is a common practice amongft
them, to afk nearly as much more for an
article, as they mean to take, and with
thofe who know them, it is always ufual
to offer them lefs. This is the cafe in
fome meafure, in our own country, but
certainly not fo frequently as in Wales.
The Welfii people have in general a
rtiltic baihfulnefs and referve, which
by ftrangers imufed to their manners,'
has been often miftaken for fullennefs.
They are generally faid to be very iraf-
cible. This may be fo, but I am inclined
to think, that the natural rapidity of
their expreflion, in a language not un-
derftood, has alone been frequently
con ft rued into pallion, when there has
been nothing of the kind. Perfons who

form

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 225

form ideas from the opinions of others,
without taking the pains to make ob-
fervations for themfelves, are very of-
ten mi fled, and fuch I am confident
has been the cafe a thoufand times, in
the judgments that have been formed of
this cireumftance.

They have every appearance of be-
ing moft miferably poor. Their cotta-
ges are frequently conftructed of ftones,
Vvhofe interfaces are filled up with
peat or mud, and fo careful are they of
glafs, that their windows are fcarcely
large enough to light around their
wretched fheds.

Their general food is bread, cheefe,
and milk; and fometimes, what they
call flummery, which is made of oat-
tneal and milk, mixed together and then
boiled. Animal food, or ale., ara not
among their ufual fare.

VOL. ii. Q The

2<26 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The women in the mountainous parts
are generally about the middle fize,
though more frequentlybelow, than above
it, and though their features are often
very pretty, their complexions are for
the moft part fomewhat fallow. They
wear long blue cloaks,* that defcend al-
moft to their feet ; thefe they are feldom
to be feen without, even in the very hotted
weather, owing moft probably, to the
fudden fhowers, which the attraction of
the mountains renders them liable to
be taken in. In North Wales, they
have all hats, fimilar to thofe of the
men, and they wear blue ftockings,
without any feet to them, which they
keep down by a kind of loop, that is
put round one of their toes. In the
moft unfrequented parts, they feldom

* Blue was a favourite colour among the Britons, from the
earlicft periods. There is an ancient Welfh proverb, " True
«' blue keeps it's hue."

weaf

A TOUR ROUNt) NORTH WALES. 227

\vear any (hoes^ except on a Sunday, or
the market-day, and even then they of-
ten carry them in their hands, as they
go along the roads ; I have feen them
by fix or eight together, feated on the
bank of a rivulet, after their journies
from the neighbouring villages, warning
their feet, before they entered the
towns. In thefe journies, if their hands
are not otherwife employed, they gene-
rally occupy their time in knitting, and
I have fometimes feen that, even a hea-
vy fall of rain would not compel them
to give it up. Their employment with-
in doors is chiefly in fpinning wool.

The Welfh people are naturally inquifi-
tiveand curious, but this is by no means
a circumftance peculiar to this country.
In all wild and unfrequented parts of the
world, it is the fame, and it is only in
fuch parts of Wales that this difpofition
is the moft obfervable. Dr. Franklin,
Q 2 has

228 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WAEES.-

has told us that this curiofity prevailed
fo much in America, that when he tra-
velled in that country, if he only wifh-
ed to afk the read, he found it expedient
fo favc time, by prefacing his queftior>
with " My name is- Benjamin Franklin
« — by trade a printer — am come from
" iuch a place — and going to fuch a
" place ; and now— -which is my road ?"
In all travels, through unfrequented
countries, we find it very common ; and
from the inquifitive difpofitions of men
in general, where novelty lays fuch hold
upon their attention, it would even feem
ftrange, were we not to find it fo.

They are much inclined to ftiperfti-
tion. But in all countries, there are
weak and foolifh people ; in England,
many of our pcafantry are ready to
fwallow, with the molt credulous avidi-
ty, any ridiculous ftories of ghofts,
hobgoblins, or fairies. In Wales it is
4 more

A TOUR ROUND tf.ORTH WALES. 22$

snore general, and the peopleare certain-
ly more credulous than the generality
of the Englifh. There are very few of
the mountaineers, who have not by
heart a whole £ring of legendary tales
of thofe difembcdied beings.

The Roman Cavern, in Llanymy-
nech hill, called Ogo, has been long no-
ted, as the refidence of a clan of the
fairy tribe, of whom the villagers re-
late many furprizing and mifchievous
•tricks. They have liftened at the mouth
of the cave, and have fometimes even
heard them in ^converfation, but always
in fuch low whifpers, that their words
have been never diftinguifhable. The
liream that runs acrofs it, is celebrated
as being the place, in which they have
been heard to warn their clothes, and
do feveral other kinds of work.

Thefe bufy little folk, feem to be
fomewhat allied to what are called

Knockers,

230 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Knockers, which by the Welfh are be-
lieved to be a fpecies of aerial beings,
that are heard underground, in or near
mines, who by their noifes direct the
miners where to find a rich vein. The
following extraordinary account of
them, is from a letter of Mr. Lewis
Morris, to his brother, Mr. William
Morris, Comptroller of the cufloms at
Holyhead, dated October the i^th. 1754.
I will make no comment upon it, and
only preface it by obferving, that Mr.
Morris, was a very learned and fenfible
man, and a perfon whofe judgment is
efteemed of great weight, by every one
who has been either acquainted with
him or his writings. " People who
know very little of arts or fciences, or
the powers of nature, (which in other
words, are the powers of the author of
nature) will laugh at us Cardiganfhire
rmners, who maintain the exiflence of

Knockers

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 23!

Knockers in mines, a kind of good-na-
tured impalpable people, not to be feen,
but heard, and whofeem to us to work
in the mines ; that is to fay, they are
types, or forerunners of working in
mines, as dreams are of fome accidents
which happen to us. The barometer
falls before rain or florins. If we did
not know the conftru<5lion of it, we
fhould call it a kind of dream, that fore-
tells rain ; but we know it is natural,
and produced by natural means, com-
prehended by us. Now how are we
fure, or any body fare, but that our
dreams, are produced by the fame natu-
ral means ? There is fome faint refem-
blance of this in the fenfe of hearing ;
the bird is killed before we hear the re-
port of the gun. However this is, I
muft fpeak well of thefe Knockers, for
they have aclually ftood my very good
friends, whether they are aerial beings,

called

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WA^ES,

called fpirits, or whether they are a
pie made of matter, not to be felt by our
grofs bodies, as air and fire, and the
like/'

" Before the difcovery of Efgair y
Mwyn mine, thefe little people, as we
call them here, worked hard there day
and night ; and there are abundance
of honefl fober people, who have heard
them, and fome perfons who have no
notion of them, or of mines either ;
but, after the difcovery of the great ore,
they were heard no more/'

" When I began to work at Llwyn
Llwyd, they worked fo frefh there for a
confiderable time, that they even frigh-
tened fome young workmen out of the
work. This was when we were driving
levels, and before we had got any ore ;
but when we came to the ore, they then
gave over, and I heard no more talk of
them/'

« Pur

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

4t Our old miners, are no more con-,
eerned, at hearing them Wafting, boring
holes, landing deads, &c. than if they
were fome of their own people ; and a
Jingle miner will ftay in the work, in
the dead of the night, without any man
wear Mm, and never think of any fear
or harm they will do him ; for they
have a notion, that the Knackers are of
their own tribe and profeffion, and are a
liarmlefs people, who mean well. Three
or four miners together, (hall hear them
ibmetimes, but if the miners ftop to take
.notice of them, the Knockers will alfo
flop ; but let the miners go on at their
own work, fuppofe it is boring, the
Knockers will go on as brifk as can be,
in landing, bla/ling, or beating down the
loofe ; and they were always heard a
littlej from them, before they came to
the ore."

« Thefe

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

" Thefe are odd afiertions, but they
are certainly fa6ls, though we cannot,
and do not pretend to account for them.
We have now very good ore at Llwyn
Llwyd, where the Knockers were heard
to work, but have now yielded up the
place, and are no more heard. Let who
will laugh, we have the greatefl reafon
to rejoice and thank the Knockers, or ra-
ther God, who fends us thefe notices/'

An intelligent friend of mine informs
me that thefe noifes of the Knockers, as
they are called, have very lately been
heard in the parifh of Llanvihangel
Yfgeiviog, in Anglefea, where they con-
tinued at different intervals for fome
weeks. In accounting for thefe noifes
it has been obferved, that they probably
proceeded either from the echo of the
miners at work, or from the dropping of
water ; but thefe feem by no means fuf-
ficient, if Mr. Morris's aflertion be true,

that

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 235

that while the miners are going on with
one kind of work, they are going on
with another, while for inftance, as he
fays, the miners are boring, they are
blafting, the former certainly cannot be
true, and the blafting entirely puts the
latter conjeclure out of the queftion, for
the droppings of water could never
produce any efFecl of that kind. As I
am only acquainted with the fubje6l
from report, I am under the n<jceflity
of leaving the elucidation of thefe ex-
traordinary fa<5ls, to fome who have
better opportunities of enquiring into
them. I have only to exprefs a hope
that the fubjecT: will not be neglecled,
and that thofe who refide in any neigh-
bourhood where they are heard, will
enquire into them carefully, and if pof-
(ible, give to the world a more accurate
account of them, than the prefent.

As

£3 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

As foon as it is dark on the evening1
before Michaelmas-day, the Welfh peo-
ple kindle great fires near their houfes,
#nd generally, where they can have it,
on a large iione upon an eminence.
Thefe they call Coelcerth, or bonfires, and
Rowlands, in his Mona, fuppofes this cuf-
tom to have originated with the Druids
.and to have been intended by them as an
offering of thankfgiving, for the fruits
of the harveft. The Druids had alfo
another at the vernal equinox, to im-
plore a bleffing from the Deity on the
fruits of the earth. On Michaelmas-eve,
feveral hundreds of thefe fires may fome-
times be feen at once, round each of
which are numbers of the labouring peo^
pie, dancing hand in hand, " in merry
" glee," fhouting and finging, in the
moil riotous and frantic manner. In
many places they retain a cuftom of each
throwing ftones or nuts into the flame,

by

A f OUR SOUND ftoRTtf WALES. 2

by which they pretend to foretell the
good, or ill hick, that will attend them
in the enfuing year.

On the eve of St. John the taptift,
they fix fprigs of the plant called St.

John's Wort, over their doors, and

\

fometimes over their windows, in order1
to purify their houfes, and by that
means drive away all fiends, and evil
fpirits, in the fame manner as the Druids
were accuftomed to do with Vervain.

They have a firm belief in witches \
and confequentiy, many old women,
merely becaufe they happen to be old and
ugly, are forced to bear all the blame
of the cows not yielding milk, or of the
butter not forming in the churn. They
arealfo believed to pofTefs the power of
i rift idling any diforder they think pro-
per, on man or beait, and that they ne-
ver neglect to do it,-rf they have been
offended. There are now living two

cele-

tg8 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

celebrated conjurors, or fortune-tellers,
who are confulted by all the neighbours,
when their goods, or cattle are miffing;
thefe are Sionet Corn, of Denbigh, and
Dick Smot, of Ofweflry.

The young people have many pre-
tended modes of foretelling their future
fweethearts, but moft of thefe being
common alfo aruongft the peafentry of
our own country, it would be ufelefs here
to repeat them.

I have been informed, that a diforder
fomething fimilar to St. Anthony's fire,
called 1r Eryr, the eagle, is fuppofed
bythelabouringpeopletobealwayscured
by the following kind of charm. A man
or woman whofe father, grandfather, or
great-grandfather, have eaten the flefh
of that bird, is to fpit upon the part
affected, and rub it, and they fay
that it will certainly go away. A fer-
vent girl, belonging to a friend of mine,

who

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 239

who refides in Wales, fays fhe was
cured of this complaint by an old man,
whofe grandfather had eaten of an
eagle's flefh ; he made ufe alfo of fome
words, to afTift in the charm, which fhe
did not comprehend.

There is an opinion, very commonly
received within the Diocefe of St. Da-
vid's, in Pembrokefhire, that a fhort time
before the death of any perfon, a light
is frequently feen proceeding from the
houfe, and even fomethnes from the bed,
where the fick perfon lies, and purfues
it's way to the church where the corpfe
is to be interred, precifely in the fame
track, in which the funeral is afterwards
to follow. This light is called Canwyll
Corph, or the corpfe candle.

I have been told of a ftrange cuftom
that prevails in fome parts of North
Wales, which no doubt, the clergy ftudy
to abolifh, as much as lays in their pow-
er.

A TOUR ROUNt) KORfH

cr. When any perfon fuppofes him*
felf highly injured, it is not uncommon
for him to repair to fome church, dedi-
cated to a celebrated Saint, as Llan
Elian, In Anglefea, and Clynog in Ca-
ernarvoiifhire, and there as it is termed
to offer his enemy. He kneels down on
his bare knees in the church, and offer-
ing a piece of money to the Saint, utters
the moft virulent imprecations, calling
down curfes and misfortunes upon the
offender and his family for generations
to come, all which they have a firm be^
lief, will come to pafs* Sometimes in-
ftead of a church, they repair to fome of
the facred wells, that are dedicated to the
Saints. Mr. Pennant,* mentions his
being threatened by a fellow, who fan-
cied he had been injured by him, " with
•• the vengeance of St. Elian, and a jour-

* See his Tour, II* 337*

" ney

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 22£

" ney to his well, to curfe him with ef-
« feel."

Some of thefe wells, are in great re-
pute for the cure of difeafes, by means
of the interceftion of the Saint. The
Saints are alfo applied to, when any
kind of goods are loft, and are made the
inftruments of recovering them, or of
difcovering the thief who has ftolen
them.

St. George had formerly in the parifh
of Abergeley, in Caernarvonfhire, his
holy well, at which this Britifh mars,
had his offering of horfes, for the rich
were, at certain times, accuftomed to
offer one, to fecurehis bleffingon all the
reft. St. George was the tutelar Saint
of thofe animals ; and all that were dif-
tempered, were brought to this well,
fprinkled with the water, and had this
bleffing beftowed : Rbad Duw a Saint

VOL. n. R Siors

226 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Siors arnat, " the blefiing of God, and St.
George be on thee."

In the churches, when the name of
the Devil occurred, an universal fpitting
u fed formerly to feize the congregation,
as if in contempt of that evil fpirit ; and
whenever Judas was mentioned, they
expreficd their abhorrence of him, by
fmiting their breafts.

If a Ffynno7i Vair, or well of our Lady,
or any other faint was near, the water
for baptifm, was always brought from
thence. ; and after the ceremony was
over, old women were very fond of
warning their eyes in tlie water of the
font.

Upon Chrifhnas day, about three
o'clock in the morning, molt of the pa-
rimioners aflembled in the church, and
after prayers and a fermon, continued
there finging pfalins, and hymns with
great devotion, till it was day-light;

and

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 327

if, through age or infirmity, any
difabled from attending, they never
failed having prayers at home, and ca-
rols on our Saviour's nativity. The
former part of the cuflom is (till in fome
places preferred, but too often perverted
into intemperance. This a<5l of devo-
tion is called Pulgeiii or the crotvhig of
the cock. It has been a general belief
among the fuperftitious, that inflantly

" at iiis warning,

Whether in fea, or fire, in earth, or air,
Th' extravagant, and erring fpirit, hies
To bis confine."

But during the holy feafon, the
cock was fuppofed to exert his power
throughout the night; from which un-
doubtedly originated the Welfh word
Pulgen, as applied to this cuftom. Ac-
cordingly Shakefpere finely defcribes
this old opinion :*

• Tenrtant, II. 340.
R g

228 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Some fay, that ever 'gainft that feafon comes,
Wherein our SAVIOUR'S birth is celebrated,
The bird of dawning fingeth all night long :
And then, they fay, no fpirit walks abroad :
The nights are wholefome : then no planets firike :
No fairy takes: no witch hath power to charm,
So hallow'd, and fo gracious is the time.

The lower clafs of people of Caernar-
vonfliire, Anglefea, and part of Meri-
oneth (hi re, have a mode of courtfhip1,
which, till within thefe few years, was
fcarcely ever heard of in this kingdom.
The lover generally comes, under the
fhadow of the night, and is taken, with-
'* out any kind of referve, into the bed
of his fair one. Here, as it is generally
underflood, with part of his clothes
ftill on,1 he breaths his tender paffion,
and a tells how true he loves/' This
cultom feems to have originated in the
fcarcity of fuel, and in the difagreeable-
nefs of fitting together in cold weather,
without fire. Much has been faid of
the innocence, with which thofe meet-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 229

klgs are conduced ; it may be fo-in
Ibme cafes, but it is certainly not an
uncommon thing, for a fon and heir
to be brought into the world, within
two . or three months after . the marri-
age ceremony has taken place. No no-
tice feems however to be taken of it,

r

provided the marriage is -over, before
the living witnefs is brought to light.
As this cuftom is entirely confined to
the labouring people, it is not fo preg-
nant with danger* as it might other-
wife be fuppofed, for both parties be-
ing poor, they are conftrained to marry,
in order to fecure their reputation, and
by that means, a method of getting a
livelihood. > fi ^j:v

Their weddings are generally atten^
ded with noife and riot, being dedicated
by the guefts tp little elfe than drinking
and fmging. On the appointed day, as
many of the neighbours and friends

as

330 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALfcS.

as can be collected together, attend the
couple to the church, and from thence,
after the ceremony, home again. Here
a collection is made amongft the guefts,
to defray the expences of the occafion,
and frequently to aid in eftablifhing the
new married couple in the world. At thefe
times they are often fo extravagant, that
many of them have literally to ftarve,
perhaps for near a month afterwards, in
order to make up the fum they thus fool-
ifhly expend ; and it is from impru-
dencies of this kind, and the fmallnefs
of their earnings, that the people are
kept fo miferably poor. In South
Wales, previous to their weddings, a
herald with a crook, or wand, afdorned
with ribands, fometimes makes the cir-
cuit of the neighbourhood, and makes
his " bidding/' or invitation, in a pre-
fcribed form. But the Knight errant
eavalcade on hourfeback — the carrying

off

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 23!

off the bride— -the refcue--- the wordy
war, in rhyme between the jparties, &c.
which formed a fingular fpe&acle of
mock conteft at the celebration of nup-
tials, is now almoft, if not altogether
laid afide, throughout every part of the
principality.

The funerals, are alfo attended by
great crowds of people, all the relatives
and neighbours of theperfon deceafed, be-
ing invited. Thecuflom of the congrega-
tion making offerings of money, on
thofe occafions, is I believe peculiar to
North Wales, and has no doubt been
retained from the Roman Catholic reli-
gion, where the money was given for
finging of mafs, for the foul of the de-
ceafed. It is now only confidered as a
mark of refpe6l paid to the clergyman,
for if he is not liked, the offerings arc
made on the coffin, at the door of the
houfe, where the perfou refided, and dif-

' tributed

232 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

tributed amongft the poor relatives.
But when they are made in the church,
the morning or evening fervice, for the
day is firft read ; the clergyman reading
two prayers from the funeral fervice, and
then the general thankfgiving, and
the reft of the fervice, at the altar table.
When the prayers are concluded, the
next of kin to the deceafed, comes for-
ward, and puts down fixpence, or a fhil-
ling, if they are poor ; but where they are
more opulent, half a crown3 or a crown,
and fometimes even fo much as a gui-
nea. This example is followed by the
other relatives, and afterwards by the
reft of the congregation that are able,
who advance in turns, and offer. When
the offering of filver is ended, there is a
fhort paufe, after which 'thofe who are
not able to afford more, come forward
and put down each a penny, (a half-
penny not being admitted). The col-
lections

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 233

Ie6lions thus made, amount fometimes
to ten or fifteen pounds, but where the
relatives are indigent, to not more than,
three or four {hillings. If the relatives
are poor, but particularly where a man,
or woman, is left with a number of chil-
dren, the money is ufually given to
them by the clergyman. After the col-
lection is entirely finifhed, the remain-
der of the burial fervice is read, and the
awful ceremony is clofed. The offerings
at Llanbublic, and Caernarvon, are faid,
upon an average, to amount to feventy
five, or eighty pounds a year. I have
been told, that it is the intention of the
clargy of North Wales, to abolifh this
cuftom, if pofTible.

It is ufual in Caernarvon fli ire, and
fome other parts of North Wales, for
the neareft female relative of the decea-
fed, be fhe widow, mother, fifter, or
daughter, to pay fome poor perfon of

the

234 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the fame fex, and nearly of the fame
age with the deceafed, for procuring
flips of yew, box, and other evergreens,
to ftrew over, and ornament the grave,
for fome weeks after the interment ; and
infome inftances for weeding and adorn-
ing it, on the eves of Eafter, Whitfun-
tide,Chriftmas, and fome other particular
days, for a year or two afterwards. The
money is given to the perfon on a plate,
at the door of the houfe, where the body
is {landing on a bier. This gift is cal-
led Diodlys, for formerly inftead of it
the perfon ufed to receive from the hand
of the female relative, a cheefe with a
piece of money ftuck in it, and fome
white bread, and afterwards a cup of
drink, but this practice is now entirely
difcontinued ; the gift however, ftill re-
tains it's old name. When this cere-
mony is over, the clergyman, or in his
abfence, the parifh clerk fays the Lord's

prayer,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 235

prayer, after which they proceed with
the corpfe. Four of the neareft of kin
take the bier upon their fhoulders, a
Cuftom conliclered as the higheil refpecl:

€fl'w

that^lilial piety can pay to the deceafed.
If the diflance from the houfe to the
church is confiderable, they are relieved
by fome of the congregation, but they
again take it, in order to carry it in and
out of the church. I have been told that
it isufual in fome parts, to fet down the
bier at every crofs way, between the
houfe and the church, and again repeat
the Lord's prayer, and to do the fame
when they enter the church-yard. They
generally ling pfalms on the way, by
which the llillnefs of ruftic life is often
broke into, in a manner finely produc-
tive of religious reflections.

In fome places it was cuftomary for
the friends of the dead, to kneel and fay
the ^Lord's prayer over the grave, for

fevera!

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALFS.
«-»

feveral Sundays after the interment, and
then to drefs the grave with flowers.

Among the Welfh, it was reckoned
fortunate for the deceafed, if it fhould
rain while they were carrying him to
church, that his bier might be wet witli
the dew of heaven.*

I have obferved, that in many parts of
Wales, as well as England, the relations
moft ridiculoufly crowd all into that
part of the church-yard, which is South
of the church ; the north, or as they
term it the wrong fide, being accounted
unhallowed ground, and fit only to be
the dormitory of flill-born infants, and
fuicides.

Mr. Pratt,-f has given us a mofl ani-
mated, and enchanting defcription of
the neatnefs of the Welfh church-yards,
and of the care that is taken by the re-
lations, of the graves of their kindred,

* Pennant, II. 339. f Gleanings through Wales.

but

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 237

but I am forry to fay, that if this gen-
tleman has ftated facts, they muft be not,
as he has aflerted, m general, but com-
pletely local ; I never faw, nor could ever
during the whole of the three months I
fpent in Wales, hear of the graves be-
ing weeded every faturday, " of their
" being every week, planted with the
" choiceft flowers of the feafon," or
that if a nettle or weed, were feen on the
Sunday morning, the living party to
whom the grave, on which it was feen
belonged, " would be hgoted, after di-
" vine fervice, by the whole congrega-
" tion/' Mr. P. throughout the whole
of his volumes, feems to have mingled
too much of the novelift with his obfer-
vations. To this there would be lefs
objection, if by fome previous hint, he
could apprize us of the ent|re of the
former : the characters which ought
never to be confounded, might thus
be kept diftinct. But when a writer, who

feems

338

feems to think himfelf entitled to cre-
dit (and in general perhaps not without
reafon) in relating his real adventures,
condefcends to embellifh his account
with fi6tion, however I may admire his
abilities, I cannot help reprobating his
praclice.

The clergy of North Wales are in
general very refpe&able men, and their
churches pretty well attended. The
livings are in general re<5lories, and the
incumbents for the moft part men that
have been educated at one of the uni-
verfities. Thefe circumftances place
them upon a much more refpe<5table
footing than thofe of the fouthern divi-
fion of the principality, whofe ftipends,
I have been told, are fo flender as to
render their fituations almoft worfe than
thofe of the labouring clafs of the com-
munity.*

* The reader will find an account of the Methodifts, in
the account of Caernarvon, Vol. I. p. 177, &c.

4 CHAP.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 239

CHAP. XIII.

BARDISM AND MUSIC. SHORT HIS-
TORY OF THE DRUIDS RELIC OF

DRUIDICAL SACRIFICE YET EXISTING
SOLEMNITIES MODE OF INSTRUC-
TION DRESS REFORMATION OF THE

BARDS BY GRIFFITH AP CYNAN THE

EISTEDDFOD DEGREES IN POETRY

AND MUSIC-— BARDIC HISTORY CONTI-
NUED ACCOUNT OF THE HARP OF

AN ANCIENT ONE IN TRINITY COL-
LEGE LIBRARY DUBLIN — DAFYDD AP
GWYLYM'S SINGULAR ABUSE OF THE
LEATHERN HARP-~THE CRwTH — PIB-

CORN CHARACTER OF THE WELSH

MUSIC FIFTEEN WELSH AIRS.

1HE ancient Britifh Bards, were divi-
ded into three eflential clafles of Der-
wydd, Bardd, and Ovydd,* or Druid,

Bard,

* Strabo, lib. XV. DcruydJ means the body of the
oak, and, by implication, the man of the oak, from the Brl-

tifh

24° A TOL'R ROUND NORTH WALES,

Bard, and Ovate. Of thefe there was
one chief head, called the Arch Druid, to
whom the whole rendered an implicit
obedience, and by whom they were
guided in conducting their moft impor-
tant affairs.* He was efteemed fu-
preme throughout the whole nation, and
to his tribunal the people annually af-
fcmbled, and in appeals that were
made to him, he gave a final judgment,
to which the parties were obliged to
abide.-f- On the death of the Arch
Druid, the next in dignity and reputa-
tion fucceeded him ; but if the merits
of feveral were equal, the election was
made by the collected votes of the in-
ferior orders. J The habitation of the

tifli word derw, an oak, andj</</, a termination of nouns.
o -i ~Bardd fignifies the branching or what fprings from, derived
from bar, a branch, or the top. Qvydd implies the difciple,
from ov, raw, and ydd, above explained. Jones's Bards, p. 2.
* His omnibus Druidibus prceeft unus, qui fammam in-
ter cos habet auftoritatem. Caf/ar, Lib. vi. 5. 13.
+ Ibid. + Ibid.

Britim

A TOtfR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Britifh Arch Druid is fuppofed to have
been near Llanidan, on the fouth eaft
coaft of Anglefea, where are faid, even
yet, to be left fome flight veftiges of
Tre'r Dry w the Arch Druid's manfion : Bod-
Drudau, the abode of the Druids: and near
them Bod-owyr, the refidence oftheOvates,
and Tre'r Beirdd, the abode of the Bards*
The Druids were employed chiefly
in the exercife of religious functions,
and it was their prerogative to prefide
over the rites and myfteries of their re-
ligion. The office of the Bards was to
fmg to the multitude their religious pre-
cepts ; to fmg to the harp at their nup-
tials, and funeral obfequies, their games
and other folemnities; and, at the head
of the armies, to chant the praifes of
thofe who had fignalized themfelves by
virtuous, or heroic adlions. The Ovate
appears to have conducted the mod tri-
vial duties appertaining to their religion,

* Rowland's Mona Antiqua Reftaurata, 235, 236*

VOL. ii. S and

24,2 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES'.

and iis a ciifciple to have been in prepa-
ration by tbe fludy of nature, for the
higher and more important offices of
Bard and Druid.

Mr. Mafon, in his tragedy of Carac-
tacus, has recognized all thefe orders
•where having fpoken of tire Arch Druid,
he fays,

His brotherhood,
P<jiTefs the neighbouring cliffs,

On the kit
Retide the fage.* fk'll'd in nature's lore:

Vender gfots,

Arc tenanted by hards, v» ho nightly thence
Rob'd in their flowing velts of innocent white,
Dcfcfr. \ with harps that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal it rains.

The Druids and Bards were the divines
the legiflators,* and phyficians of the
ancient Britons; they compofed hymns
for the ufe of the temples, and accompa-

* They arr fuppofedto have b?entthe firit frarners ofla'.vs
in Briiain. The firlt wrirren laws are faid to have Ix en
thofe of Dyvnwal Moclmud, King of Britain, 440 years be-
i^, called the Motl.isuuan Laws.

niexi

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 243

nied them with their harps. They fang
the offence and immortality of the foul ;
the works of nature ; the courfe of ce-
leftial bodies; the order and harmony
of the fpheres; and the encomiums on
the virtues of eminent men.* In later
periods, they kept an account of the de-
fcent of families, emblazoned their arms,
and compofed fongs on the valiant ac-
tions of illuftrious warriors, in heroic
verfe, which they chanted to their harps,
and confequently were the national hif-
torians ; and from them much of the an-
cient hiftory of this country has been
collected. > .

The Druids were accounted the firft
and nioft diftinguiflied order of the na-
tion : they were frequently chofen from
the mod refpeclable families: and the ho-
nors of their birth, aided by thole of their
funclion, procured them the higheft ve-
aieration amongft the people. The au-

* Cjpfar, Lib. VI. f. 14.

S 2 thority

244 A TOUR ROUND 1S?ORTH WALES.

thority even of the Kings, was greatly
controuledbythem ; for, being confidered
as the interpreters of the Gods, their
power, and confcquently the honor paid
to them, was incredibly great.

On all important occafions, the Bards
were ambalTadors between contending
chiefs; and their perfons were at all
times held facred. " Cairbar," fays Of-
fian, " feared to ftretch hisfword to the
"• Bards, though his foul was dark.
" Loofe (faid the noble Cathmor) the
" Bards. They are the fons of other
" times. Their voice fliall be heard in
" other years, when the Kings of Te-
" mora have failed." They, as well as
the Druids, were exempted from all mi-
litary fervices, even in times of the
greatefl danger;* and, when they at-
tended their patrons into the field, to
fing their heroic actions, they had a
guard affigned them for their protec-
tion.

* Cxf. Lib. VI. f. 14.

Whatever

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 245

Whatever religious opinions the Dm-

r

ids might privately entertain, they cer-
tainly, in public, either worfhipped a
multiplicity of Deities, or one God un-
der feveral titles and appellations; of
which was Teutates, or Mercury, the
inventor of arts, and the chief conductor
of travels and expeditions ; then, next in
order, came Apollo, Mars, Jupiter, and '
Minerva, under different Britifh names.*
To thefe they offered human vi6tims.
On folemn occafions, they reared huge
images, whofe members, wrought with
oziers, they filled with living men, or
with different kinds of animals; and,
fetting fire to them, confumed thefe mi-
ferable victims, as iacrifices to their
cruel Deities. Thieves, robbers, and
other malefaclors, were preferred for
this purpofe ; but if thefe were wanting,
innocent perfons were taken. -f Diodorus

* Caf. f. 17. t Ibid, f. 1 6 Strabo, VI. 198.

Siculus

2^6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Siculus fays,* that condemned crimi-
nals ufed to be referved for five years;
Nand, on a certain day, facrificed all toge-
ther. Captives of war were alfo immo-
lated in the fame manner. It was alfo
an article in their creed, that nothing
fliort of the life of a man, offered a fa-
crifice on their altars, could atone with
the Gods for the death of another man.-f
A fingular relic of the ancient facri-
fices of the Druids, is yet remaining in
fome parts of North Wales. When a
violent difeafe breaks out amongft the
horned cattle, the farmers of the diftrict
where it rages join, to give up a bullock
l for a victim, which is carried to the top
of fome neighbouring precipice, from
whence it is thrown headlong clown ;

o

and this they call " calling a captive to
" the Devil."

* Strabo, V. 32. + C*f. VI. 16.

It

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 24,7

It lias been faicl, that the Druids '
taught the Pythagorean do6lrine of
tranfmigration of fouls into other bo-
dies; but Lucan and Marcellinus* both
reprefent them as teaching, that the
foul, after death, afcended into fome
higher orb, where it enjoyed more per-
fect happinefs.

Their a6ls of worfhip were all per-

,y formed in the open air; for they thought
it derogated from the greatnefs of their
Gods to confine them within walls. The
places appropriated for this purpofe ap-
pear to have been groves of oak. Pliny-f*
fays, " they drefs and cultivate groves
" of oak ; for, without that tree, or thofe

X " groves, they never celebrate any part
" of their facred functions." Thefe groves
were great inclofures of tall and fp read-
ing oaks, furrounding their moft facred

* Lucan, I. 455.— Marcell. XV. 9.
i Hitt. Nat. -Lib. XVI. c. 44.

places.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

places. In thefe they had their mounts
and hillocks, which they called Gorjedd-
an, from their fitting aloft upon them,
'// when they pronounced their decrees and
- fentences, and made their folemn ora-
* ,*> c//'< tions to the people; or their creeled
pillars, to which fome think they yielded
divine honors, as the memorials of their
deified heroes.

They placed a very high my fiery in
the mifletoe* of the oak; for, when the
end of their year was near, they marched
in proceflion, with great folemnity, to
gather it, in order to prefent it to their
Deity; inviting all the world to aflift at
the ceremony, in thefe words : — " The
" NEW YEAR it at band, gather the Mifle-

* In fome parts of Wales, the mifletoe was called oil-jack, %,
all-heal; pren-aivyr, the celeftial tree; and uchdiuydd, the
lofty flirub. Bcfides this plant, the Druids ritually gathered
lycopcdwmjelagc, fir- leaved club-roofs ; and/amc/xs •oalerandi, "»
a round-leaved water pimpernel, both of which they applied
tp medical ufes

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 24,9

" toe." The facrifkes being ready, the
prieft afcendecl the oak, and, with a gol-
den hook, cut off the mifletoe, which
was received in a white garment fpread
for the purpofe. This part of the cere-
mony being ended, the victims, two
•white bulls that had never been yoked*
were brought forth, and offered up with
prayers, for the profperity of thofe, to
whom had been given fo precious a
boon. The mifletoe thus gathered, was
deemed an antidote to all poifons ; and
they ufed it as a fpecific againfl fterility.
The mofl facred folemnities of the
Druids were ufually performed on the
fixth day of the moon, which was always
the firft day of their months. But be-
fides this, it appears probable, that they
had alfo, with the generality of man-
kind, one day in feven fet apart for di-
vine worfhip. What other feftivals, or
pnniverfary folemnities, they had, we

know

2JO A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

know not; yet it is not unlikely, but
that .they had fet times, and peculiar ce-
lebrations, for many of their deified
warriors.

To be excluded from their facred rites,
was efleemed the mod grievous punifh-
ment that the Druids could inflict; and
they had the power of doing this to any
that they judged it proper. Thofe
againft whom this fentence of excom-
munication was pronounced, were con-
fidered as impious, and their fociety was
ihunned by all. They were denied the
protection of the law, and were rendered
incapable of any honor or trufl. The
Druids took every care to inculcate in
the people, the indifpenfible obligation
of their fubmitting to the neceflary rites
and duties of oblation and facrifice, to-
gether with their own indifputable
power, of defigning and appropriating
whatever perfons or things they thought

proper,

.A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

proper, for the cruel victims of their al-
tars. This power, which was the chief
prop of the Druidical authority, they re-
tained to the laft.

The difciples of the Druidical Bards
underwent a noviciate of twenty years,
during which time, they learned an im-
menfe number of verfes, in which they
preferved the principles of their religious
andcivilpolity,byuninterrupted tradition,
for many centuries. Though the ufe of
letters was familiar to them, they did
not deem it lawful to commit thefe
verfes to writing, in order that, by this
means, they might flrengthen their in-
tellectual faculties, and keep their myf-
terious knowledge from the contempla-
tion of the vulgar.

uj

The metre, in which thefe oracular in-
flru6tions were communicated to the
people, was called Englyn Milwry or the
Warrior's Song; and is a kind of triplet
That the Englifli reader may

have

252 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

have fome idea of their conflruction, I
have inferted, from Jones's Mufical and
Poetical Relics of the Welfh Bards,*
tran flations of five of them. Thefe have
the fame number of lines and feet as the
original ; and the fenfe is preferved, as
near as the limits of the metre would
allow. The two firfl lines do not feem
to have much connection with the laft ;
however, there appears to have been no
fmall degree of art employed in their
compofition. In the firft lines, the
Druid defcribes, either actions that are
familiar to every one,, or the appearance
of vifible objects: he then concludes,
with a precept of morality, or a prover-
bial fentence; and, by annexing to it
undoubted f aft, artfully implies, and en«-
gages the mind to receive the truth of
the moral maxim, as equally clear and
well-eftablifhed as the identity of
rial objects.

? Page 4.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 253

In the oak's high-tow'ring grove,
Dwells the liberty I love. — •
Bablenfrom thy truft remove.

Liberty I feek and have,

Where tfc« green birchen branches wave.— i

Keep ajecret from a knave.

Snow a robe o'er hamlets flings;
In the wood the raven fings. —
Too mucbJJeep no profit brings.

When the mountain fnow is fpread,
Stags love funny vales to tread. —
Vain is furrow for the dead.

Fair the moon's refplendcnt bow,
Shining on the mountain fnow. —
Peace the 'wicked rever know.

In all the orders of Druidifm, the
hair was worn very fhort, and the beards
extremely long. All wore long habits ;
and the Druids, when performing their
religious rites, had on robes of white, as
emblems of truth and piety. The Bards
at thefe times wore azure garments,

}\rC*

with ccafc to them, as fymbols of Hea-
ven, peace, and fidelity; and the gar-
ments of the Ovates were green, the

emblems of learning and truth.

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The immenfe power that the Druids
had acquired, drew upon them the ven-
geance of the Romans, who, in other
inftances, were not often intolerant.
The pretext for firft attacking them,
was the cruelty committed in their fa-
cred rites; but the true reafon was cer-
tainly the great influence that they^
had obtained over the people. The au-
thority of the Druids in Gaul, was, by
various means, fo much reduced in the
time of Claudius, , that they are faid to
have been entirely deftroyed there, about
the year 45, by that Emperor. And in
Britain, Suetonius Paul inns, the Gover-
nor of the country under Nero, having
taken the ifland of Anglefea, not only
cut down the facred groves of the Dru-
ids, and overturned their altars, but alfo
gonfumed many of the Druids them-
folves, in thofe fires that had been kin-
died for facrificing the Roman captives,
Lad that army been defeated.*

* Tacit. Ann. XIV. 30.

Im-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES

Immediately after this event, thofe
who efcaped, fled from the country, and
fought refuge in the adjacent iflands of
X Ireland, the Ifle of Man and Bardfey,
places to which the Roman fword had
not at that time reached. The theory
of the Britifh muiic is faid to have
moved with them, and to have fettled in
Ireland, which, from that period, conti-
nued, for many ages, the feat of learn-
ing and philofophy.

The Bards, having now loft their fa-
cred Druidical character, began to ap-
pear in an ^honorable, though lefs digni-
fied capacity, at the courts of the Britifh
Kings. The mufic, as well as the poe-
try, of Britain, no doubt received a tinc-
ture from the martial fpirit of the times;
and the Bards, who once had dedicated
their profeflion to the worfhip of tli2
. Gods in their Sylvan temples, the cele-
bration of public folemnities, and the
praife of all the arts of peace, and
who had reprefied the fury of armies,
4 pre-

2,^6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

prepared to rufh upon each other's fpears;
now,

" With other echo taught the {hades
To anfwer and rcfound far other fong."

At the commencement of the fixth
century, they began to refume the harp
with unufual energy, to animate their
country in their ftruggle with the Sax-
ons ; but, from the ninth to the eleventh,
if we are to judge from the few pieces
that are extant, compofed during that
period, their raufe feems again to have
received a check. The hiatus continues
till the time of Prince Gryffydd ap Cy-
nan, who, about 1100, reformed many
diforders which prevailed amongft the
bards. Being educated in Ireland, this
Prince either from a partiality to the
mu lie of his own country, or on ac-
count of it's fu peri or excellence to that
of Wales, invited over from thence feve-
ral of the molt celebrated muficians, and
formed a body of inflitutes, for the

amend-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 257

amendment of their manners, and the
correction of their art and practice.*

This reformation was effected by
dividing them into clafles, and affigning
to each clafs a diftinct profeffion and
employment. It was made their office,
to applaud the living and to record the
dead. They were required to pofiefs
learning and genius, a ikill in pedigrees,
an acquaintance with the laws and me-
tres of poetry, a knowledge of harmony,
a fine voice, and the command of an.in-
ftrument. They were dhtributed into
three grand orders, of poets, heralds, and
mtiiicians ; each of which again branch-
ed into fubordinate diilinctions.

The firft clafs of the poets confifted of
Hiftorical or Antiquarian Bards, who at
times mixed prophecy with their infpi-
ration : they were alfo critics and teach-
ers, and to them belonged the praife of
virtue and the cenfure of vice. It was
their duty to celebrate the gifts of fancy

* Towel's and Wynne's Hfflories of Wales.

VOL. ii. T and

£58 A f OUR ROUND &6AtH WALES.

and poetry. Of them it was required,
to addrefs married women without the
air of gallantry; and the clergy, in a fe-
rious (train, fuitablc to their function;

tofatirize without indecency, and with-

«> '

cut lampooning; to anfwer and over-
throw the lampoons of the inferior Bards.

The ieconcl clais was formed of Do-
Jneftic Bards, who refided in the houfes
of the great, to celebrate their exploits
and amiable qualities; they fang the
praifes of generofity, contentment, do-
inefVic happinefs, and all the focial vir-
tues: and, in this manner, eminently
contributed to enliven the leifure -of
their patrons.

The third clafs confifled of the Herald
Bards, who were the national chroni-
clers, and were alfo well verfed in pedi-
grees and blazonry of arms, and in the
works of the primary Bards. They could
trace back the defcents of their princes

and

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 259

and nobles, as far as Beli, Sylvius, ./Ene-
as, or even to Adam himfelf. Their
poetry was of a humbler kind: it was
ufually confined to fubjecls of jocularity
and mimickry, inve6live and reproach.

Of the Mufical Bards, the firft clafs
was appropriated to the performers on
the harp: the fecond contained per-
formers on the fix-ftringed Crwth. The
third confifted of fingers, whofe em-*
ployment it was, to fing to the harps of
others, the compofitions of the Poetical
Bards ; but from thefe, a variety of
other qualifications was expe6led.

The Eifteddfod, the Britifh Olympic,
was a triennial afiembly of the Bards,
for the regulation of poetry and mufic;
for conferring honorary degrees, and
advancing to the chair of the Eiftedd-
fod, by the decifion of a poetical and
mufical conteft, fome of the rival candi-
dates ; or eftablifhing, in that honorable
1 2 feat,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

feat, the Chief Bard, who had already
occupied it. This aflembly was uf iially
held at AberfFraw, the royal feat of the
ancient Princes of North Wales; in An-
glefea; or fometimes at Dinevawr, in
Caermartheumire,the caflle of the Prin-
ces of South Wales; or Mathraval, in
Montgomeryfhire, the royal palace of
the Princes of Powys.

Before any perfon could be enrolled
in the Eifteddfod, the permiflion of the
Prince or Lord, within whofe jurif-
cli6tion he lived, was to be obtained.
If he defired to proceed to degrees in
poetry, he was obliged, at his prefenta-
tion, to explain the five metres of fong ;
and to ling them in fuch a manner, that
one of the principal Bards would declare
upon his confcience, that lie was com-
petent to be admitted. He then became
a pupil of fome one of the principal
Bards, whom he was obliged to attend

an-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

annually in Lent, and without whole
approbation he could make no competi-
tion public; and, during three years,
that is, till the next Eilleddfod, he re-
mained an under-graduate, and was
called Difgybl yfpas -cerdd davod, a
probationary Student of Poetry.

At the next Eifleddfod, he was exa-
mined for the degree of Difgybl Difg y
Waidd, or Bachelor of the Art of Poetry^

After another like interval, the Bard
took the degree of Difgybl Penceirddi-
aidd, or Mafter of the Art of Poetry ; for
which it was requifite, that he mould
tmderftand the rules of grammar and
rhetoric; and analyfe and explain the
alliterative concatenations of the lan-
guage ; to efcape all the errors ; and to
fing melodioufly in parts twenty-one of
the metres.

To the Pencerdd, or Profejfor of Poe-
try, who obtained his degree at the end

of

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

of the fame period, belonged the whole
my fiery of the art. He was able to fing
in harmony or concord, and was well-
verfed in tranfpofed alliteration. Among
his qualifications, are enumerated ferti-
lity in poetical fubjects ; a ilore of mat-
ter and invention ; authority of decifion ;
and a facility in competing in praife of
the great, what would be heard or re-
ceived with the moft delight, and longeft
retained in memory.

The degrees in mufic appear to have
been much the fame in form with thofe
in poetry. The candidate was, for the
firft three years, a Probationary Student
in mufic without a degree. At the end
of that term, he became a Graduate Pro-
bationary Student. His fecond degree,
at the end of fix years, was Bachelor,
and at the end of nine, was Mailer of
Mufic; and, as in poetry, the higher!
degree was Pencerdd Athraw, or DoSlor
of Mufic. If

A TOUR ROU^D NORTH WALES. 203

If a difciple of any degree, was dif-
covered in taverns, or fecret places,
playing for money at dice, or any
other game, any perfon was autho-
rized to take from him whatever mo'ney
was found in his purfe. For mockery
and derifion, and the invention or pro-
pagation of falfehood, they were punifh-
ed by fine and imprifonment ; for the
laws fay the Bards mall be eafy and
peaceful in their manners, friendly in
their difpofitions, and humble in their
fervices to their prince, and his adhe-
rents.

The Eifteddfod, was a rigid fchool.
The poetical, or muiical difciple, who
at the expiration of his triennial term
was not able to obtain a higher degree,
was condemned even to lofe that which
he had already pofleffed.

The Bards were ever held in the
higheft repute, by the Britifli Kings,
and Nobles. The Court Bard, or Lau-
reat Bard, was in rank the eighth offi-
cer

264 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

cer of the King's houfehold, and was
very often of his council. Whoever
flightly injured him, was fined fix cows
and a hundred and twenty pence ; and
the murderer of a Bard was fined a hun-
dred and twenty-fix cows. He accom-
panied the army upon their march ; and,
in the front of the battle, fang the an-
cient fong, called the « Monarchy of
,\ « Britain ;" and for this fervice, when
the Prince had received the fhare of the
fpoils, he was rewarded with the moft
valuable beaft that remained.

A valfal, by the pra6tice of poetry and
mufic, which he could not adopt with-
out the permiflion of his Lord or Prince,
acquired the privileges of a freeman, and
an honorable rank in fociety.

Nothing can difplay more forcibly,
the eftimation and influence which the
Bards enjoyed in the early periods, than
their remarkable prerogative, of .peti-
tioning for prefents by occafional po-
ems.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 265

ems. This cufiom they carried to fuch
an excefs, and fuch refpecl v/as con-
ftantly paid to their requefts, that, in
the time of Gryffydd ap Cynan, it be-
came necefiary to controul -them by a
law, which retrained them from aikine

t o

for the Prince's horfe, liawk, or grey-
hound, or any other pofleiTion beyond a
certain price, or that was particularly
valued by the owner, or could not be
replaced.

The revenues of the Bards arofe from
prefents, at princely or other nuptials; and
from the fees that they received in their
circuits at Chriftmas, Eafter, Whitfun-
tide, and in their triennial Clera, or grand
circuit, when they were received into
the houies of the great, and continued
fo long as any feafting lafted. Thefe
fees and prefents were regulated in pro-
portion to their degrees. They were
alfo allowed a certain fiun out of every

plough-

£66> A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

plough-land ; and, in proportion, out of
every half plough-land of their difirict.

Befides the regular, or graduated
Bards, there were four other clafles of
inferior, and unlicenced Bards; thefe
were of the meaner, and more unfkilful
fort of muficians and poets, and were
what might be termed minjlrels. They
were pipers, players on the three-
flri'nged Crwth, taborers, and buffoons.
They had no connection with the Eif-
teddfod ; and their eftimation and their
profits were equally inconfiderable.

The period that intervened, between
the reign of Gryffydd ap Cynan, and
that of the laft Prince Llewelyn, is the
brlghteft in theWelfh annals. It abounds
with perhaps the nobleft monuments of
genius their nation can boaft. The
names of the Bards are numerous; but
their remains unluckily very few.

4 Early

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 267

Early in the twelfth century, mufic
and poetry had approached their iitmoft
degree of perfection in Wales ; nor by
the common fate of the arts in other
countries, did they fuddently fall from
the eminence they had attained. If
during the fucceeding age, they indica^
ted any fymptoms of decay, remedy was al-
ways, fo diligently applied by the (kill of
theEifteddfod, to the declining part, that
they preferved their former vigour, and
perhaps acquired even additional gra-
ces.

By the cruel policy of Edward I. who,
though he had conquered this country,
did not think himfelf fecure in his tri-
umph, whilft the warm and energetic
fongs of a race of men, deemed almoft
jnfpired, were permitted to overawe the
vulgar, was affefted a total malTacre of
the Welfli Bards. The enfuing fcene
tp this, Gray had finely defcribed :

On dreary Arvon's (hofe they lie
Smear'd with gore, and ghaftly pale ;

Far,

268 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Far, far aloof th' affrighted ravens fail,
The famifli'd eagle fcreams and pafles by.

The Bards after this " Cambria's fa-
tal day/' were reduced to employ their
facred art in obfcurity and forrow, but
while thus cramped in their poetical de-
partment, they had more leifure for
the ftudy of heraldry, and their other
domeftic duties.

3y the infurrei5lion, however under
Owen Glyndwr, in the reign of Henry
IV. the martial fpirit of the Britifh
mufe was once more revived, to cele-
brate the enterprizes of their heroic
leader. Like him the bards of his time
were " irregular and wild ;" and as the
taper glimmering in it's focket, gives a
fudden blaze before it is extinguifhed, fo
did they make one bright effort of their
original and daring genius, which was
foon afterwards buried, with their hero
in the grave.

Under

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 26*9

Under the patronage cf Henry VII.
the Cambro-Britifh mufe \vas once
more reftored; the Eifteddfods, which
had been difcontinued were re-eftablifh-
ed, and the bards were employed in the
honourable commiffion of making out,
from their authentic records, the pede-
gree of their king.

After a long interval of anarchy
amongft them, commiffioners were ap-
pointed by Queen Elizabeth, to aflem-
ble an Eifleddfod at Caerwys, in the
year 1568. They were inftrucled to
advance the ingenious and fkilful to the
accuftomed degrees, and to reftore to
the graduates, their ancient exclufive
privilege of exercifing their profeffion.
" The reft not worthy," were by this
commmifiion commanded to betake
themfelves to fome honed labour, and
livelihood, on pain of being apprehend-
ed, and punifhed as vagabonds.

From.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

From this time the bardic meetings
feem to have again dwindled almoft to
nothing: A fociety in London called
the Gzvy?ieddigion, or North Wales men,
have in thefe late years endeavoured
once more to raife them from oblivion,
by convening annual meetings in fome
village or town, in North Wales^ giving
fubjecls for candidates to write upon^
and honorary medals to fuch as are fuo
cefsful. One of the fiiit of thefe meet-
ings was held about eight years ago, at
Corwen, in Merionethfhire ; and an
Eifteddfod was afiembled at Caerwys,
on the s^th. of May, 1798. This meet-
ing was well attended. The number
of Bards was twenty, of vocal per-
formers eighteen, and of harpers
twelve.

From the earlieft times the Bards
were the Britifh hiftorians; in their

trien-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

triennial Clera, or perambulation,
they collc6ted and wrote down all the
memorable tranfactions that pafled in
every country, that it concerned their
profefiion to notice. For this purpoie
they had a flipend paid to them, and a
fevere punifhment of long imprifon-
ment, lofs of place, and dignity* and
great difgrace, was by law inflicted up-
on fuch as mifreprefented facts, or fet
down falfities. No man was permitted
to defcribe any battle but fuch has had
been an eye-witneis thereof ; for fome
of the chief Bards were Marfhals, of all
battles ; they fat in council in the field,
and were the King's, or General's in-
telligencers, how the action went on ;
fo that they could not be ignorant of
any circumftance of importance that
was going on in the field.

The

272 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES*

The mufical inftruments chiefly pe-
culiar to this country are three, the
Telyn or Harp, the Crwth, and the
Pibcorn, or Hornpipe.

The principal of thefe is the Harp.
This, which appears to have been the
moft ancient of all the mufical inftru-
ments, deriving it's origin in the moft
remote periods of antiquity, was for-
5 merly

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 273

merly fo much in ufe in Wales, that
to play upon it was an accomplifhment
indifpenfibly requifite for every gentle-
man, and upon this it was that the chief
mufician, ufed formerly to perform in the
courts of the Princes of Wales.

The moft ancient harp of thefe coun-
tries, now remaining, is an Irifh one,
tvhich is faid to have belonged to Brian
Boiromh, King of Ireland, who was
(lain in battle with the Danes, at Clon-
tarf, near Dublin, in the year 1014.
It is depofited in the Library of Trinity
College, Dublin. It has onlyafingle row
of firings, is not quite a yard high and of
extraordinary good workmanfhip. The
found board is of oak, the pillar and comb
of red fallow, and the extremity of the
uppermoft bar, or comb, in part is capt
with filver, extremely well wrought and
chifeled, and it has been otherwife ele-
gantly ornamented. It has had twenty
eight firings. The bottom on which it
refts is a little broken, and the wood

VOL. n. U is

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

is much decayed. The whole bears
evidence of an expert artift.

In early times the harp had only a
fingle row of firings, it was made fmall
and portable, and confequently much
confined in the compafs of it's notes.
It was neceflary to tune it afrefh, when-
ever the performer wiflied to change the
key ; but when any accidental fharp
Was requifite, in the middle of a tune,
he ran up his hand clofe to the upper-
moft bar, and flopped the firing dexte-
roufly with his thumb, whilft he played
the note with his finger. This trick
was preferved by fome of the old harp-
ers, of the laft century, but I believe it
is now quite loft.

By the ancient Welfh laws, the under-
graduates were only permitted to ufe
harps ftrung with horfes hair, which
they had curioufly plaited. Some harps
of this kind were remaining, amongft
them, fo lately as the beginning of the
fifteenth century. The bodies of fome
4, of

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 275

of thefe were covered with leather,
fewed extremely tight at the back, over
the wood, and the pegs which the firings
were fcrewed with, were made of bone
or ivory.

A Minflrel of the latter period has
left us this defcription of himfelf, and
his harp :

If I have my harp, I care for no more,

It is my treafure, I keep it in (lore ;

For my harp is made of a good mare's (kin,

The firings be of horfe-hair, it maketh good din.

My fong, and ray voice, and my harp doth agree.

Much like the buzzing of an humble bee ;

Yet in my country I do make paftime,

In telling of prophecy which be not in rhyme.*

Dafydd ap Gwilym/f a Welfh bard,
who flourifhed about the end of the
fourteenth century, in his Cowydd y
Dclyn Ledr, or Poem, on the leathern

* The firft book of the Introduction of Knowledge, by
Andrew Borde.

i Or Dafydd Morganwg, Bard to Iror Hael, (Lord of
Maefalog, in Monmouthmire) and to the Monaftery of Strata
Florida. See his works, publifhed by E. Williams, in the
Strand, London.

U 2 harp,

276 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES-,

harp, reprobates the ufe of it, in a mod
droll and entertaining manner. " Grant
bounteous God/ 'fays he " that the blef-
fings may dawn of the mirthful man-
ners of Wales in times of yore ! The
choiceft fpot ; a fair garden for the en-
joyment of life, thou wert, whilft the
time of Clera contimiecf, and the learn-
ing of the good old Cymry ! Now,
alas ! cold the news ; there is a noify
flrumming amongft us of difmal crazy-
fided harps, or leathern wickets. Da-
vid had not one firing from dead fheep ;
long profper the faith. The mi-nflrels
of the ferious prophet, David, with all
the cunning of their divination, never
formed one harp exquifitely pleafing,
but of fhiny hair, yet pure the fong ^
wife is the eafy and fprightly defcrip-
tion of the harp, ftrung with black
glofly hair. The hair-lining harp, a
worthy gift ! by the bounty of heaven,
which came complete to David, and
was and henceforth fhall continue from

the

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 277

the beginning of the world : an ample
thought ! till the day of doom ; awful
contemplation !

" There is none who would wifh for
life amongft us, fhould he be {killed in
mufrc ; for there as nothing but the din
of this leathern harp ; (fie on the office ! )
profperous it fhall not be, played with
a horny nail of unpleafant form ;* only
the gracelefs bears it. For a learner,
it will be difficult in a month to put
it in tune — the copper tinted flrumpet ;
an ugly plague, like the naked curve of
therainbow, a frightful form. Itisthe mur-
mur of young fprawling crows,apleafmg
brood affecled by the rain. Having an
ardent third for perfection I loved not
it's button-covered trough, nor it's mu-
fic ; nor it's guts, -founding eventful

* Galileo in his dialogue on ancient, and modern mufic,
fays, the performer on the harp, let his nails grow to a con.
diderable length, trimming them with great care, and form-
ing them fotnewhat like the quills on the Jacks of a Harpfi-
chord.

difguft ;

difguft ; nor it's yellow colour, nor it's
gaudinefs, nor it's unconne<5led angle,
nor it's bending pillar ; it is the vile
that loves it. Under the preffure of the
eight fingers, ugly is the fwell of it's
belly, with it's canvas fmock ; it's trunk
and it's hoarfe found, were but formed
for an age-worn Saxon. It is like the
wild neighing, and difmal roar of fome
bay mare, after horfes. The unceafing
din through the night, is a perfecl filler
<V to the frightful yellow hag of Rbos.*

" It is the noife of a lame goofe,
amongft the corn ; a fquealing foolifh
Irifh witch ; it is the rumbling of the
mill-ftream, of Crazy Leap ; and like
the fhrieking wry-necked hare. It is
the wooden fickle of a prude of yore,
or the tottering fhin of an old woman.
" Let every mufical profeflbr from
the Englifh Marches, as far as Mona's
Ifle. learn to play upon a fair harp, with

« The Yellow Peftilence.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 279

jetty hair ; and to impart infiructions, as
was ufual in the time of our old fore-
fathers ; I proclaim it ! as for the other
giftlefs twanging one, let no difciple bear
it in the face of day."

In procefs of time the double harp,
or harp with two rows of firings, was
invented which fupplied the deficiency,
and in fome degree obviated the diffi-
culty of playing the flats and (harps.

The next improvement was the tri-
ple harp, which feems to have been in-
vented about the fourteenth century.
This is the harp now in common ufe in
this country. It extends in compafs to
five oclaves, and one note. The two
outfide rows are the diatonics, which
are both tuned in unifons, and in any
key that the performer means to play
in. The treble row confifis of twenty
feven firings ; that is from A in alt,
down to C in the bafs ; and the oppo-
iite row or unifons, (which is played
with the bafs hand) extends from A in

alt.

280 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

alt, down as low as double G in the
bafs, which is thirty feven firings. The
middle row being the flats and lharps,
extend from alto, G (harp, down to dou-
ble B natural, in the bafs, confifting of
thirty four firings. All the three rows
- together amount to ninety eight firings.
About forty years ago one Simon, of
Bruffels, made a ftill greater improve-
ment upon the harp, by the addition of
pedals, for producing the half tones.
This inftrument is capable of great ex-
preffion, and of executing whatever can
be played on the harpfichord. There
are but thirty-three firings upon it,
which are merely the natural notes of
the diatonic fcale ; the reft are made by
the feet. It is an ingenious and ufeful
contrivance, for by reducing the number
of firings, the tones of thofe that re-
main are improved.

The Crwth, another of the Welfh na-
tional inftruments, is now fo nearly out
of ufe that it is fcarcely known at all.
5 Sir

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. iiSl

Sir John Hawkins,* fays, that in his time
there was but one perfbn, in the whole
principality that could play on it, and
this was a John Morgan, of New-
borough, in the I He of Anglefea, then
near fixty years of age. I however met
by chance with a perfon living at Caer-
narvon, who played to me feveral of the
national tunes, upon this mliruinent.

It is in it's general conflruclion upon
the fame principle as the violin. -f It's

* Hiftory of Mufic, II. 275.

* It's name is defcriptive of it's bellying form, as it im-
plies any protuberance, fucji as a flalk, a box, sad the like ;
thus Growth Ha/w, is a fait box.

fides

L. 1-J «/

Vx."-^ <\ -f

SI*

282 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

fides are continued in a ftraight line, to
it's whole length, and as well as the
finger board, are joined to a crofs bar,
in which the pegs are fixed ; the upper
part thus forming a frame round the
hand, fo that the outfide edge forms
nearly an oblong fquare, with the cor-
ners a little rounded. It's length is
about twenty two inches, it is about ten
inches wide at the bottom, and an inch
and a half in thicknefs. There are fix
firings ;. the four firft are conducted
down the finger board, and the other
two leave it about an inch to the right.
The former are flopped with the fingers,
and the others firuck with the thumb.
The firings are fupported by a bridge,
differing in form from that of a violin,
in not being like that, convex, but flat at
the top. It is played with a bow, which
fince it is drawn over all the firings at
the fame time, does not produce merely
a fuccefllon of notes, but of concords.
The two lower firings feem to ferve as

a kind

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 283

a kind of bafs accompaniment. The
bridge is not placed at right angles to
the fides, but in an oblique direction,
one end of it entering one of the found
holes, and refting on the back, and the
other being placed on the belly juft
above the oppofite hole. It is tuned by
pegs, with a key or wreft, in a manner
fimilar to fome of the guittars. When
played upon, it is hung round the neck
of the mufician by a firing, as both the
thumb and fingers of the hand which
it refls upon, are in motion.

The notes of each of the ftrings, and
the method of tuning of them are as
follow :

zzzrq:

--S-

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The inftrument I faw, feeins to have
been in it's fcale quite different from
thofe mentioned by Mr. Jones, in his
account of the Welm Bards, and by the
Honorable Dames Harrington, in the
Archasologia, of the Antiquarian So-
ciety.* In each of thefe, one end of
the bridge is reprefented as (landing in,
and the other below, and not as in this
cafe above the found hole.

I did not much admire the tone of the
inftrument, it was harfh and unpleafant,
but this might be owing in a great mea-
fure, to indifferent abilities of the per-
former, and to the badnefs of it's con-
ftruclion. When accompanied by the
harp, it's tone was much mellowed,
but dill it had unconquerable harm-
nefs.

As to the antiquity of the Crwth,
there is but little written evidence, to
carry it farther back than the time of

* Vol. III. p. 33.

Leland,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 285

Leland, yet it has in general, been con-
fidered of fuch high antiquity, as to af-
ford a probable conjecture that it might
have been the prototype, of the whole
fidicinal fpecies of mufical inftruments.
Butler, in his Hudibras, feems to hint at
it's having been fuch :

His fiddte is your proper purchafe,
Won in the fervice of the churches;
And by your doom muft be allow'd
To be, or be no more a Crtnvd*

Spenfer feems alfo to have been ac-
quainted with this inftrument, when he
lays,

Hark, how the rainftrils 'gin to fhrill aloud,
Their merry mufic that refound$ from far;

The pipe, the tabor, and the trembling crwad,
That well agree withouten breach or jar.

It does not appear to have been pecu-
liar to Wales, for amongft the outfide
ornaments of the Abbey of Melrofs, in
Scotland, which was built about the

* A performer on the Crwth was called a Crvvther,
hence no doubl originated Butler's name of Crowdero, in

Hudibras.

time

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

time of Edward II. there is a figure of
the Crwth, very little different from
the one here defcribed.

Befides this Crwth, the Welfl) had
formerly another, called Crwth Trithant,
or the three-ftringed Crwth. The per-
formers on this were held in very little
eftimation among the Bards, on account
of it's not admitting equal Ikill and
harmony, with either of the other two.

The Pibcorn, or hornpipe, was fo cal-
led becaufe both it's extremities were
made of horn, the one to collecl the
wind blown into it, and the other to
carry off the founds as modulated by

Pibgrorn

o

part

Reed

^*=— =— ^T ^ ^

the performer. It has fix holes in front
for the fingers, and one behind for the

thumb.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 287

thumb. It's length is about nineteen
inches, and in blowing it, the wind
founds the tongue of a reed concealed
within. The tone that is produced is,
confidering the materials of which it is
compofed, faid to be very tolerable, and
in fome meafure to referable that of an
oboe. It is a rural pipe, and faid to be
almoft peculiar to the Ifle of Anglefea,
where the ihepherds play on it for
amufement, whilft employed in tending
their flocks. I do not think it is very
commonly to be met with, as I never
could obtain the light of one, in that
Ifland, though I made many enquiries
after it.

The Honourable Daines Barrington
conjectures, and with great appearance
of probability, that this inftrument ori-
ginally gave name to that kind of coun-
try dance, called Horn-pipe. It was

Hot

288 A TOUR ROUND NORTH

not entirely peculiar .to Wales, having
been alfo formerly ufed in Cornwall.

The Welfh mufic is like the Scotch,
remarkable for a wildnefs and irregula-
rity, but it is inferior to that in fweetnefs
of modulation. Much has been faid of
the very high antiquity of mofl of their
prefent airs, but the regularity of their
compofition feems to point out to us that
they have not been formed at any very
remote period. The few ancient pieces
that are yet extant, of which the dates
have been afcertained with any degree
of accuracy, fall very far fhort of the
elegance and fweetnefs of thefe melo-
dies. The moft ancient are grave and
folemn, and the plaintive, which were
appropriated to elegies, and the celebra-
tion of the dead, are ftriking and pa-
thetic, whilft the dances and jigs, are,
on the contrary, extremely lively and
cheerful.

In

A TOUR ROUND NOR±H WALES. 289

In the airs that I have felected, I have
changed the keys of fome of them, and
altered their baflfes, that they might be
the better adapted to the harpfichord.
Moft of the harpers that I have met
with in \Vales, play in the major keys
of G and D, which are by no means
fuited to plaintive fubje6ls. Six of the
airs are taken from Mr. Jones's excellent
colle6lion; the reft I wrote from the harp,
when I was in that country. Some of
them differ very materially from thofe
inferted by that gentleman, but as the
general caft of their melody appeared
to me much more pleafing than thofe, I
ftill thought it proper to retain them.

I cannot conclude this account more
appropriately, than by inferting Mr,
"Jones's defcription of the mufic of his
own country. " There is a certain
flyle of melody peculiar to each mufical
country/' fays this gentleman, " which
the people of that country are apt to
prefer, to every other ftyle. Some of

VOL, uf X the

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the dignified old Welfh tunes, convey to
our ideas, the ancient manners and convi-
viality of our anceflors. There are others
that recal back to our minds, certain inci-
dents which happened in ouryouth,of love,
rural fports, and other paftimes ; they
likewife excite in us a longing defire of
a repetition of thofe juvenile pleafures ;
and perhaps it is on account of thele ef-
fects they produce, that they are fo well
remembered, andcontinue to be fung with
fuch delight by the natives. The at-
tachment to national tunes, when once
eftablifhed, inftead of offending by re-
pition, is always upon the increafe. The
mufic, as well as the poetry of Wales,
derived it's peculiar and original charac-
ter from the genius of the country;
they both fprang from the fame fource ;
it's delightful vallies gave birth to their
foft and tender meafures, and it's wild
mountainous fcenes, to their bolder and
more animated tones."

CHAP.

(To face Page 29OVol:«.) j

SELECT SPECIMENS of the WEI. s H Music .

Martial and Magnificent .

VTheWar Song of the
Triban Gwyr Morgtannwg«.yMan of Glamorgan.

rUf>J r

Dovth ir Frwydr. Come to Battle
Majcftic.

Pi

Ppff

£3 ^^ o

S3— -i

:-m-9

-»7-

1

L

l

2CS! i C

^

to

1_

\j» ff <-

^^

^^^_

O r'

^

•^

«^

•J

u

d

^r

-8-

iiii:

Plaintive & Pathetic

Cwynfan Brydain. The lamentation of Britain
A Canticle

gd

J

H

i-JfliffffifWi

4

Ft? —

m

1

/i

n

i

*f-

r

M orfa Rhyddlan . The Marsh of Rhvddlan .

The Words are Versified from a Fragment Pub-
lished in the Letters from Snowdon .
Elegiac

giac i i *

hgfabbhil

Fair on old HavrensbankThemodestViolet blooms

t_J-l * «i

1 ^3 •

ffM

—

9 JL

>^ •

r"^

r*

2

V f-

•^ >^ •

E

r r

^^^ M ^^\ ^
' ^ -€

- "C

tcented Air, Its breath jTerfanies .

3-

Bright shines the glorious Sun a

[eaven ,

\Vhenfrom it's cheering orb tneCloadsure driven,

I

Aform more beaateoasstill adorn'dthe Flood.

Gwendolens fatal form Llewelyn's blood!

im

For her in Arms opposd,

Contending Warriors strove ,
'Twas beauty fir'd . their Hearts,

Gwendolens love .

On Morfa Rhyddlans plain the rivals stood,
Till Morfa Rhyddlans plain was drench'd in Blood,
Not all proud Lloeger's might could Cvmry qaeli.
Till foremost of his band joung Griffith fell.

3
Gwendolen saw him fall,

And oh1 the Maiden cried*
"Could Maiden Prayers avail

Thou hadst not died1')'
Distracted to the plain Gwendolen flew
To bathe her Hero's Wounds, her last adieu!
Fast oer her Hero's Wounds,her Tears she shed,
But Tears alas, were vain his life was shed.

Oh then for Griffith's Son,

Ye Maids of Cymry mourn,
For well the Virgins Tear,

Becomes his urn .

Nor you v« Youths, forbid jour Tears to flow,
For they shall best redress who feel for woe,
Sweet sleeps the lovely Maid, wept by the brave
For ah. she died for him she could not save .

Paftoral

Ar hyd y Nos

The livelong Night.

Fain woudsomewithvonripersuademe^rlvydy

' y

sen:

M a eft of o

Ntfs That my faithful Swain has fie

£

ri

r|

<^r*L v

*

Ar hjd y NtTs, But my beating He art will falter,

f

j

\\\\ \\l\W

Ere itthinkshisHeartcanalter^re itthinkshis

^ ?)•

Heart can alter Ar hyd y Nos

-e-

Nos Cralan. New Year* Night. 7

P S

Jifffnf

JKLI m

Y Gadlys

(The Camp of the Palace, or
(of Noble Race was Shenkin.

m

s±

if 1 V.

Meg-en a Golloddei Gardas.

Margaret that lost her Garter

Allegro

:&£

S

w

±I±

10

, (Owen's Lady s
Difvrrwch Arg-lwyddes Owens. -j

/ ^delight.

Allegro

&t

f— -H — »

_ . .ff.-r f.-

iiri:

HE!

^ . (Good humoured

Glan meddwdod mwyn.J

t'

II

,*nd fairlj tipsev.

Moderato

r A* «
• I* t

^^

LI H \ n O ix

The Ash Grove .

fa

Allegro

frrirfrifrrit

±js

DANCES AND SPRIGHTLY TUNES.

Tri chant o Bunnau. Three Hundred Pounds

Jllfrilirn -fi

Merch. Meg-an . Margarets Daughter.

Allegro

r«7» ir u 1

1 IS

-

81

^

r

x^

X*

...' '

15

Klodaur Grug*. The Flowers of the Heath .

*J

Allegro

16'

Suo g-an . The lullaby Socg. which the

Welsh Nurses sing to compose their Children
to sleep .

Tender and Slow.

Hwi hwi Kwi ; liwi liwi

'V ...

9J • f *

-ff

^

p —

n 5

PS

^H^^3E

a*

9

i

j..

V • •

J '

plentyn "bach, hw

^^i • ••

i hwi liwi

"f" H,

23

i • —

• 1 P

« r* *

«j'-

J — r

3=

1 J

B f E : n-

EE

1 — fc-r-1-

~a

" • r

93 — a

T i n ii

d

J J 1 II

, S-,

j • j ii

^ i.

)r- I

fi

\

hwi druan bacK.
1*" i -1

MCP J

m

|

r^

B,

r *J. 1

1

*

r

.._

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 29!

CHAP. XIV.

ACCOUNT OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE. —

THE FORCE OF THE LETTERS — LIST OF

PRIMITIVE WORDS CHARACTER OF

THE LANGUAGE — OF THE POETRY—-
THE CORNISH, ARMORIC, IRISH, AND

ERSE, ALL DIALECTS OF WELSH THE

WELSH LANGUAGE DERIVED FROM THE
HEBREW INSTANCE OF THEIR AGREE-
MENT IT'S ANALOGY TO THE GREEK,

SAXON ALPHABET THE PROPERTY OF

THE BRITONS REV. WALTER DAVIES's

REMARKS ON THE WELSH LANGUAGE.

IT is fuppofed, that there were ancient-
ly, in the Welfh or Britifh language,*

* For much of the prefent eflay I am indebted to the foU
lowing works : — Commentarioli Britannia defcriptionis frag-
mentum, Auftore Humfredo Llwyd ; Powel's Hiftory of
Wales; Edward Llwd's Notes, in Gibfon's Edition of
Camden'sBritannica ; Rowland's Mona Antiqua Rsftaurata;
Stukeley's Medalic Hiftory ; the Preface to Owen's Tranfla-
tion of the Elegies of Llywarch Hen; Jones's Mufical
*:and Poetical Relics of the Welfh Bards ; the Monthly Ma-
garine; and the firft and fecond volumes of the Cambrian
Regifter.

X s no

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

no lefs than thirty-fix letters ; fixteen of
which were radicals, that exprefied the
primary founds; and the reft, modula-
tions or dependents on them. For each
of thefe, it is probable that there was
formerly a fimple appropriate character;
but, iince the invention of printing, and
the introduction of Roman letters, it has
been neceflary, for want of a fufficient
variety of caft for the purpofe, to adopt
two, and in one inftance even three, of
thofe letters, to exprefs one found or
character, by which much of the fimpli-
city and beauty of the proper alphabet
has been loft.

The prefent printed books contain
only twentv-feven characters: A, B, C,

*/ *

Ch, D, Dd, E, F, Ff, G, NG, H, I, L,
LI. M. X, 0? P, Ph, R, S,T, Th,U, W,
and Y ; having neither J, K, X, nor Z.
C ani'wers the purpofe of K, when
joined with W or O; and when placed

with

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES, 293

with S, of X. It is faid that Z is ufed in A
the Annonican language, which is a dia-
led of this, but the Welfh difown it.

No letter has any variation of found,
except the accented vowels a, e, 6, u> w,
which are lengthened, or otherwife, ac-
cording to the power of the accent ; and
all are pronounced, as there are no
mutes.

A has' the fame found as the Englifh

open a in the word bard.
C is always hard, as k.
Ch, which is accounted bat as one con-

fonant, is a guttral, as % in Greek, or

n, Cheth, in Hebrew.
Dd is an afpirated d, and has the found

of tb in the words this, that. Dda,

good, is pronounced Tba.
F has the found of the Englifh r.
I is founded as in the Italian, or like

our ee in been: thus <•//, a retreat, is

pronounced keel.

LI

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

LI is an afpirated /, and has much the

found of ihl. Llangollen is pronounced

Tblangothlen,
R, as in the Greek language, is always

afpirated at the beginning of a word,
U founds like the i in limb, him, &c.
\V is a vowel, and has the power of oo

\i\foon.
Y is in forne words pronounced like i in

third; in others like o in honey ; and

again, in others as the u in v$.ud, rnuft,

&c.
V is fometiraes ufed inftead of/. 6 and

P, C and G, and U and Y, are ufed

promifcuoufly, as were formerly V

and M.

The following is a lift of primitive
words, which, as they very commonly
occur in the names of places, &c. the
tourift may find them of ufe.

Aber, a confluence ; the fall of one river
into another, or into the fea, as Aber-
dovey, the conflux of the Dovey.

Avon,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Avon, what flows; and from thence a

ft ream or river.

Allt, a cliff; the iteep of a hill.
Ar, upon ; bordering or abutting upon.
Bach, and Bychan, little: — thefe are of

the mafculine gender, and Vychan and

Vechan are fceminine.
B6dy a dwelling, refidence, or fiation.
Bryn, a hill.

Bwlch , a gap or pafs between rocks.
Cader, a keep, fortrefs, or ftrong hold.
Cae-Tj a fort, or fortified place, generally

conflru6led with flones and mortar.
Caftell, a caflle.
Coed, a wood.
Carnedd, a heap of flones.
Cefen, a ridge; a high ground.
Clawdd, a dike, ditch, or trench; and

fometimes a wall or fence.
Clogwyn, a precipice.
Craig, a rock: — from this the Englifh

word Crag is derived.

Cwm, a great hollow or glen.

Dinas

296 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Dinas, a fort, or fortified place, conftrucl-

ed in general with a rampart of loofe

flones and earth without any cement.

Dot, a meadow or dale in the bend of a

river.
,V Drzvs, a door, pafs, or opening.

Du, black.

I- Qyffryn, a wide cultivated valley,
Ffynnon, a fpring, well, or fource.
Garth, a mountain that bends round, or
^ that inclofes.
Glan, a bank or fhore.
Glyn, a deep vale, through which a river
runs: — from hence was derived our
word Gkn.

Y Gwern, a watery meadow. &lek*~ - ^ ^
Gwydd, a wood ; woody or wild.
Gwyn, white.
Goch or Cocb, red.

i, a fmooth plot ; a place of meet-
ing; the church place or village; and
figuratively the church.
a />»«.*-.•—<./- /|i»»vA*- *~- Llecht

y^c,£fjt^\

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Llecb, a flat flone or crag ; a fmooth cliff,

Lkvyn, a grove or copfe.

Llyn, a pool, pond, or mere*

Maen, a flone.

Maes, an open field. fa^?tm.

Mawr, great : — foeminine Vawr.

Mod, fair ; bald ; a fmooth mountain.

Morfa, a marfh.

Mynydd, a mountain.

Pant, a narrow hollow or ravine.

Pen, a head, top, or end.

Plas, a hall or manfion.

Pont, a bridge.

Porth, a port.

Rbiw, an afcent.

Rbos, a moiit plain or meadow. ^,

Rhyd, a ford.

Sam, a caufeway.

Tal, the front, head, or end.

Traeth, a fand on the fea more. J^-^

Trefy a townfhip.

Ty, a houfe.

Inys, an ifland.

The

3p8 A TOUR ROUND NORTHWALES.

The Welfh language is pofiefied of
numerous beauties. It's copioufnefs is
very great ; and it has no rival in the va-
riety of it's fynonymous forms of expref-
fion, principally arifmg from the rich
combinations of it's verbs; for every
fimple verb has about twenty modifica-
tions, by means of qualifying prefixes;
and in every form it may be conjugated,
either by inflexions, like the Latin, or
by afcxilliaries, as in Englifh. It rivals
the Greek, in it's aptitude to form the
jnoft beautiful derivatives, as well as in
the elegance, facility, and expreffivenefs
of an infinite variety of compounds. The
author of Letters from Snowdon has
juflly remarked, that " it has the foftnefs
*e and harmony of the Italian, with the
« majefty and expreffion of the Greek/'
Of thefe I will give two fingular and
ftriking inftances, one of which is an
jLnglyn, or epigram, on the Silkworm,

compofed entirely of vowels.

O'i

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 2CJ9

O'i wiw wy i weu £ a, a'i weuau
O'i wyau y weua j
E' weua ei we aia',
A'i, weuau yw ieuau ii.

" I perifh by my art; dig mine own grave;
" I fpin my thread of life; my death 1 weave."

The other, a diilich on Thunder, the
grandeur of which is fcarcely to be fur-*
panned in any language.

Tan a dwr yn ymwriaw,
Yw'r taranau dreigiau draw.

*' The roaring thunder, dreadful in it's ire,
" It's water warring with aerial fire."

The metre of the Welfh poetry is very
artificial and alliterative, pofleffing fuch
peculiar ingenuity in the feleclion and
arrangement of words, as to produce a
rhythmical concatenation of founds in
every verfe. The old Britifh language
abounded with confonants, and was
formed of monofyllables, which are
incompatible with quantity; and the

Bards

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Bards could reduce it to concord by no
other means, than by placing at fuch
intervals it's harfher confonants, fo in-
termixing them with vowels, and fo
adapting, repeating, and dividing the
feveral founds, as to produce an agree-
able effect from their flruclure. Hence
the laws of poetical compofition in this
language are fo flridl and rigorous,
that, were it not for a particular apti-
tude that it has for that kind of allitera-
tive melody, which is as efTential as har-
mony in mufic, a}id which conflitutes
the great beauty of it's poetry, the ge-
nius of the Bard mult have been greatly
cramped. To the ears of the natives,
the Welfh metre is extremely pleafmg,
and does not fubjecl the Bard to more
reflraint, than the different forts of feet
occafioned to the Greek and Roman
poets. From the reign of Llewelyn to
that of Elizabeth, the laws of allitera-
tion

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 301

tion were prefcribed, and obferved with
fuch fcrupulous exaclnefs, that a line
not perfectly alliterative was condemned
as much by the Welfh grammarians, as
a falfe quantity was by the Greeks and
Romans.

This language, the Cornilh,* and
Breton, or Armoric,-f have an uniform
agreement with one another, in gram-

* The natives of Cornwall, and part of Devonfhire, began
to lofe their old Celtic dialed in the reign of Elizabeth, and
1 believe it is now entirely extincl.

t Little Britain, now called Bretagne, in France, was
called, in Csefar's time, Ar-y-mCr-ucha' ', that is, " On the «-V"
" Upper Sea." It was afterwards inhabited by Briror.s; "{-^t^t ***-*£**}
for, about the year 384, an hundred thcufand Britons, wirh o ./ , / /£ "^_t

a numerous army of foldiers, went out of this ifland, under , /*-//,

. . // \3tt'~"t "sf~

the command of Conan, Lord of Meriadoc, now Denbigh- J I •

land, to the afliftanceof Maximus the tyrant, againft the Em-
peror Gratianus. They conquered the country of Ar-y-mor-
ucha'; and for this fervice, Maximus granted to Conan and
his followers, that country to dwell in ; from whence, there-
fore, the Britons drove out all the former inhabitants, aud
formed there a kingdom, which continued in their pofterity
for many years, and where the Welfh language is fpoken,even
to this day. Dyck j PrifOefoedd, by Theophilus Evans, —
Carafe's Hifloiy of Wales, by Wynne, p. 8 ; and Lcivit'i Hif-
tary of Great Britain, p. 143 ; quoted in fsntt't Weljb Bards t
p. I.

mar,

302 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

mar, ftruclure, and nomenclature; but
of thefe, the two lafl referable each other
theneareft: and the Irifii, and Erfe? or
^ Gallic, are fundamentally the fame with

// yc /-'c tne Welih, though differing much in the
dialect and pronunciation. They all
proceeded from one common head or
fountain, the ancient Celtic, or Britifh
tongue.

There is fo great an analogy between
the primitive and derivative words of the
Hebrew and Welfh, (allowing for the
different modes of pronouncing in dif-
ferent languages) that it is plainly evi*

// if dent, that feveral of the Britifh words

CL t-y*+* «•«.* • /*••'-•

.* •

&£h owed their origin to that firft and mofl
^*- ancient language of mankind; and the
Britiili, even of the prefent day, having

fc^/ 2*> .

« ^^^ //^/Jnore wtttidg m it agreeing with that

primitive tongue, than all the reft put
^— «^ ~ together, it certainly appears, in it's
? eZ£j~- ^r-^ ftrueture and origin, to have been

* one of tlie PrimarJ
"

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 30$

Befides this, there are many ancient
Britifh words, which have norefemblance
to thofe of any other language in the
world, except the Hehrew, fo as to be in
any pofiibility derived from them, as
far as can be yet perceived ; which feems
to evince, that the Britifh language, in
it's radical parts at leaft, mufl be ori-
ginal ; no footfteps of it any where ap-
pearing, but in thofe places where it is
allowed that the ancient Celta? for fome
time inhabited, or where their Gaulifh
and Britifh offspring had fent their co-
lonies. And if this language had come
here, and had been derived from the
language of any other part of the world,
it's fpring and origin might have- been
traced: but iince this cannot be done
among any other nation or people, but
within it's own territories, it is a fure
argument, that it wholly depends upon
it's national origin and foundation ; and

con-

304, A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

confequently, that it is in fubftance the
language of the firfl planters of the Bri-
tifli Ifle.

Now, if it only appear, that the fame
people continued in a conflant uninter-
rupted fucce'fion, from the firfl planting
of this nation to the prefent day, it fol-
lows, that the fame language thefe peo-
ple ufed, (being fo good and exprelfive
as this language is) muft continue here
as uninterrupted as the people whofe lan-
guage it was: for no reafon can be
given why, by what means, and in what
periods of time, this fame language, the
fame people continuing, fhould be ex-
terminated, or utterly ceafe and perifii.
It is true, that new people generally
do introduce new languages, or very
much corrupt and alter the old; but
here we have no fuch thing. There are
no records, no authentic marks of anti-
quity, to {hew us, that amidft the vari-
ous

A TOUR 'ROUND NORTH WALES. 305

ous mutations of people, tongues, and
nations in other parts of the world, the
inhabitants of this part of Great Britain
have been difleized, or fo oufted of the
premier poffeflion of it, as that any other
people or nation took up their place, and
kept themfelves pofTefled of it.

The Irifh once indeed drove the in-
habitants out of the I fie of Anglefea,
the feat of learning ; but they were them-
felves, very fhortly afterwards, expelled,
and their leader killed. The Romans,
Saxons, Danes and Normans, fought to
obtain the fubmiffion of the inhabitants,
and had it ; but they never fucceeded in
endeavouring to force their languages
upon them.

Now thefe things being confidered,
it is abfurd to imagine that the people
ihould, without any appearance of rea-
fon for it, universally forfake .and aban-
don their native language. Yet though
?&i- ..

VOL. ii. • Y it

306 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

""• • • • - ' *

it feems to appear, beyond denial, that
this ancient language has remained till
the prefent time, it is not to be doubted,
, but that in the long fpace of fome
thoufand years, it mud have been much
altered in it's mode, and propriety of
fpeaking, according to the change of
times, and the humours of the people ;
and fo like a long continued river, take
in many branches, and probably lofe a
few, in it's conftant flux and current.

Thus the Romans added fome words,
•£ *~*and the Danes, and Saxons, alfo a few

.'t~fe~»~5

J- „'</«- —2 to the Britifh Dictionary; while obli-
vion f^0ie away many of the ancient
founds of it, when new ones were in-
troduced. And in later times fmce the
Englifh hath fo much incroached upon
it, as to become the genteel and falhion-
able tongue, many more words have
been thrown afide as obfolete and ufe-
lefs, which were before perhaps the

flowers

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 307

flowers and ornaments of the language.
The Hebrew and Welfh languages,
befides the agreement between fingle
words, and the gutteral pronunciation
of fome of the fyllables, are fo nearly
allied in their grammatical form, and
conftru6lion, that it would be difficult
to adduce even a fingle article, in the
Hebrew Grammar, but the fame is to be
found in Welfh ; and there are many
whole fentences to be found in both
languages, which are exaclly the fame
in the very words.

The following are inftances of the
agreement of fingle words.

Helrnv. Wcljb, An£lijb.

Denah Dyna This or that, or there it is.

Bareh Bara Meat or vi&uals.

Gad Cad ...... An army.

Geven Cefyn ... .A ridge or back.

Maguur — Magwyr . . .A habitation or walled dwel-
— ling.

Cis Cm* Acheft.

* It appears very probable that the local word cift, ufed in
many parts of Yorkfhire for cheft, may have had it's origin
from this.

M«-ab

308 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

EngUJb.

Me-ab ---- Mab ..... Son, or from a father.

Hah ? ...... Mae ? ..... What ? where ? how ?

Mar ...... Maer ..... A Lord.

Nafe ...... NT? ...... Joyful.

Hanes ---- Hanes . — To fignify or account.

JiiFal ..... Ifelorlfe!u-To throw down.

Nadu ..... Nadu ..... They moan and lament.

Sethar . ___ Sathru ____ To throw under feet.

Heber ---- Aber ..... A ford or paflage.

Gadah . --- Gadaw --- .To pa is by.
Mohal ---- Moel ..... Top of a hill.1

Path ...... Peth ...... A part or portion.

Cir ...... Caer ------ A walled town.

Reith ..... Rhith ..... Appearance.

X Sac ...... Sach ...... A fack.

Bagad . --- Bagad * .... A great many.

Gavel ---- Gafael* --- Tenure, or lauds bounded.

cj? Mai as ---- Melys ---- Sweet, or to fweeten.

y.

Inftances of the agreement of whole
fentences.

Hebrew. By Hang adonai-eth cal neoth Jan-
geob.

Welfo. By-llvvng adon-ydh holl neuodh Jago.

Enrlijh. The Lord has fvvallowed up — all th«

tabernacles of Jacob.

* From this and the Britifh word ccnedyly which figni
ties a kindred, is derived gavtlkind, a tenure, which continues
to this day in Kenr, by \vhich the lands of the father, arc
at his death divided enuailj' ati:ongft his fons, or the land of
a brother, if he has no iflue of his ownj equally among a$
the brethren.

3.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 309

1. Heb. Derech bethah iitfengad.

2. Welflt. Dyrac buth-hi ai-i-fengyd.

1. The road of her houfe he would tread.

2. The avenue of her dwelling he would go

to tread.

1. Heb. Me huaze malec hacavodh Jehovah

tfebaoth hua malec hacavodh. Selah !

2. Weljh. Py yw-o fy maeloc y-cavad I-a-ywvo

favwyod yw-o maeloc y-cavad. Sela.

1. Who is the king of Glory? The Lord

of hofts he is the king of Glory. Selah.

2. Who is he that is poffeffor of attainment ?

/ that am him of hofts, he is poffeflbr of
attainment. Behold!*

1. Heb. Mageni ngal eloiin.

2. WelJJi. Meigen-i hwyl elyv.

1. My fliield is from God.

2. My prote&ion is from the intelligences.

Befides this lingular conformity be-
twixt the Hebrew and Welfh languages,
there is alfo a ftriking relemblance in
found and meaning, betwixt many
words of this and the Greek language,
which feems by no means unnatural,

* This a literal tranflation,

fince

310 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WAIVES.

fince the Welfh has been fhewn to owe
n i
**• ' it's origin to the Hebrew. The articles,

pronouns, prepofitions, affixes, &c. are
in many inftances the fame in both.
The verbs generally agree in the form
of their inflexions, and often in the
identity of found. It is conjectured
that Parkhurft's Lexicon, contains about
feven thoufand words, and with upwards
•* of half that number there are words
in the Welfh language, that have the
% fame fignification, agreeing in found
and form of competition.

Greet. Wtlfl.

Mn ..... Mo ......... Left; that not; not.

'lia. ..... Yna ....... .That ; to the end that.

Atffw- ...Dyre .... — Hither.

A»» ..... De ......... Truly, in truth.

E|w ..... Echw, uchw . . Out ; without.

E^,J ..... Imi ... — ... To me.

Nw/', vw . ,Ni, nyni ..... We, us two.

Nw<v,vft;y. .Nyein, nyn — Of us two.

. .Kvd, Ryda . , . [ A

I of, 8cc.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 31 1

A fa, ..... Aru ........ To plough.

A«x;y --- Dagyr deigyr. -A tear.

A*xptw --DacTru,deigro-» _ ,

\ To fhed tears.
and detgraw J

Aas-sca; --- Dvfcu, from n

_' . . > To teach.
Dyfc learning J

. -Dyddfcu ..... To teach to inftruft,

... -Deuo _______ To come.

---- Aelu, aeleu, -i

euli'u ___ . j

_ . r A people, a number of

---- Lios, Liaws --- < i • «• -

t men, a multitude.

iM - . Merwino ___ .To caufe to decay.
..... Nos ........ Night.

..... Oio ........ To think, to bear in mind.

--- 'Raca ....... A rake.

The Welfh have at prefent no alpha-
bet, except the fame that we ufe, but
there appears every proof that the one
which has, in general, been attributed
to the Saxons, and from them called
the Saxon Alphabet, was in reality the
property of the Britons, and was poffef-
fed by them many centuries before the
Saxons came into this I (land. It is
extremely probable that when the Bri-

5 tons

312 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Q //z/V tons were driven out of Mercia, many
neverthelefs remained in the country,
from whom thofe invaders firft had
their letters. AfTerus, and Scotus, who
A #*• jnftructed Alfred, and the Englifh, were
/ fc both Welfhmen, and it is very poflible

"7

that at that time they claimed the Sax-
t <T on alphabet, as their own.*

* Dr. Johnfon, who fully examined

^
^1 every record extant on thefubjecl:, can-

^ didly confefles, in his hiflory of the
^* Engijfh language, that when the Sax-

*^

<J/*'^ons firft entered Britain, about the year

m v I

4>5°> tney feemed " to have been a peo-
« p]e without learning, and very pro-
" bably without an alphabet."

If they brought thefe letters with
them from Saxony, or wherever they
came from, there muft have been fome
remains of them in infcriptions, and
books left behind them in that country,

* Afierus raenevenfis de reb, geft. Alfred i.

unlefg

»& TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 313

unlefs they all came over to a man, and
brought with them all their books, and
tombftones too, for in all Germany
there is no fuch character to be heard
of.

That they invented them after they
came over into Britain, is utterly impro-
bable, fince there was the Roman cha-
racter through all Britain, ready to their
hands, and in common ufe, not to fay
any thing of the other, the Britifh cha-
racter. The Irifh hiftori'ans fay, that
they borrowed them from that country :

it is probable that the Irifh poflefled

X

them in common with the Britons, as

the chief part of their language was
the fame, and as they have to this day
retained both the character and lan-
guage. But what need was there for the
Saxons to go over to Ireland, to borrow
what they had in their own Illand, and
neighbourhood ?

That

314 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

That the Britons ufed this alphabet,
in ancient times, beyond all hiflory,
feems extremely probable, even from an
expreffion of Caefar, in his defcription
of the Druids, " Greeds literis utuntur,"*
for feveral of the Saxon characters, are
the fame as thofe in the old Greek alpha-
bet.

Many of the ancient Britifli manu-
fcrips are written in this character, as
part of Liber Landavenfis, and feveral
in North Wales.

Mr. Edward Llwyd in one of his
prefaces to Archaeologia, has inferted
three ftanzas, of the ancient piftilh poe-
try, which he found in the Highlands
of Scotland, in this old character, or one
very like it. They were written orr
vellum, and he fuppofed them above a
thoufand years old.

* Caef. Lib. VI. S. 14.

Over

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 315

Over the South door of* the church
of Llangadwaladr, in Anglefea, is yet
remaining a ftone, having on it the fol-
lowing infcription, in which thefe letters
feem to have been ufed :

CATAMANUS REX SAPIENTISSMUS*
OPINATISSIMUS OMNIUM REGUM.

This Catamanus, or Cadvan, was the
grandfather of King Cadwaladr, and
died in the beginning of the feventh
century : he is faid to have been buried
in the I fie of Bardfey, where many of
the Britifli Princes and Nobles were
interred. But by this infcription it
fhould feem that he was bqried in this
place, where his grandfon afterwards'
built the church, and endowed it as one
of the fancluaries of the ifland,

* The letter i it omitted,

The

•316 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

The Britifh hiftorians and poets, re-
dound with the praifes of one Pabo Poll
Prydain, that is, Pabo the fupport of
Britain, who lived about the time that
the Saxons came into Britain, and dif*
played much valour, in the contentions
againfl the Picls and Scots. He was
buried in the church-yard of Llanbabo,
in Anglefea, which he had himfelf found-
ed. About the time of Charles II. his
grave-ftone was difcovered by the Sex-
ton, as he was digging a grave, at the
depth of fix or feven feet in the earth,
and it was then removed into the choir,
where it has remained ever fince. It
has on it the figure of a man, in long
robes, with a coronet on his head, and
a fceptre in his hand, and on it's edge
is a latin infcription in baflb-relievo, in
thefe characters, mixed with the Roman.
And there are feveral other inscriptions
in North Wales, in this ancient charac-
ter.

Another

ATotm ROUND NORTH WALES. 317

Another evidence that the Britons,
were poflefled of an alphabet before
the arrival of the Saxons, is in the in-
, fcriptions on Britifh coins, ftruck fome
centuries previous to that time. Dr.
Stukeley, has favoured the world with
twenty three plates of impreffions,
from the ancient coins of the Welfh
Kings, and amongft them of a coin of
Bleiddyd Blatos, or Bladud, King of

jf

Britain, about nine hundred years before
Chrift. This is now lodged in the Cot-
tonian library ; and was one that Cam-
denj owned he could make nothing of.-
There are others of Manogan, who
reigned about 130 years before the
fh Chriftian aera ; of Cynvelyn or Cuno-
belin, King of the Caflivelauni, during
whofe reign Chrift was born ; of Meu-
rig, or Marius Rex, and his fon Coel
Rex, who flourifhed about the year
127,

4 In

318 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the reign of Henry VIII. there
was found at Ambrefbury, in Wiltfhire,
a table of metal, which appeared to be
tin and lead mixed, infcribed with many
letters, but in fo ftrange a character
that neither Sir Thomas Eliot, nor
Mr. Lily, the Schoolmafter of St. Paul's,
could read it, and it was therefore neg-
lecled. Had it been preferved it might
probably have led to fome difcovery.

Before the arrival of the Romans,
the Welfh, or Britifh language, appears
to have been the only one ufed through-
out the whole of thefe Iflands ; but after
the expulfion of the Britifh, by the
Saxons, it fled with them into the moun-
tains. It feems to have continued in
ufe in the Highlands of Scotland,
Wales, Ireland, and Cornwall, for feve-
ral centuries fubfequent to this period,
where defended by mountain barriers,
it's brave pofleflbrs could not be affailed

without

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 310,

without danger. In Cornwall it is now
loft, but it continues yet to be fpoken in
North Wales, in it's original purity.
There have been many attempts to in-
troduce the Englifh language into gene-
ral ufe, amongft the lower clafs of peo-
ple in Wales, but without any great fuc-
cefs. Englifh charity fchools have for
many years been inftituted, in almoft
every part of the principality, but thefe
feem by no means to endanger the na-
tive language. The little that the chil-
dren learn from inftruclors, who them-
felves know but little, is foon loft from
the natural preference which they have
to the indigenous property of their
country, and their diftafte for an exotic.
To fay that I found them in general
entirely ignorant of the Englifh langu-
age, would be falfe, for in thofe parts of
Flintfhire, Denbighfhire, and Montgo-
merylhire, that are near the Englifh

counties,

526 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALKS.

counties, I found that they fpoke it
very fluently, It is in Anglefea, and
the mountains of Caernarvonfhire,.and
Merionethfhire, that they are the moft
ignorant of it ; and even here, in the
great roads, I almoft always had Englifli
anlvvers to my queftions, and even in
more obfcure fituations by a little perfe-
verance, or by the exhibition of money, I
have obtained the anfwers I wanted.
There is a natural refervednefs about
many of the Welfh, which fometiines
makes even thofe who can fpeak the
language pretty well, very fhy in doing
it, and this fhynefs is frequently inter-
preted by ilrangers into ignorance.

Mr. Walter Davies,* fenfibly, but too
warmly remarks, that fome advocates for
the abolition of the Welfli tongue, are

* Sec a ftatlfiic.il account of the parifh of Llanymynecb,
in Montgomeryfhire, by the Rev. Walter Davies, A. B. in
the Cambrian Regifter, Vol. I. p. 280.

vain

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

vain enough to prognofticate a near ap-
proaching day, when it will be numbered
among the dead. They fee fome few
families upon the borders, and about a
dozen Innkeepers upon the poft roads,
who fpeak Englifh only ; but there are
thoufands and tens of thoufands, in the
wilds of Wales " who have learned the
" language of their parents, and of
" their country, as naturally and as
" innocently as they fucked their mo-
" ther's breads, or breathed the com-
" mon air : they have neither opportu-
" nity nor inclination, to learn any other
" tongue." This is the impregnable
fortrefs of the Welfh language, where a
rivettcd cordial antipathy againft the
Englifh tongue, caufed by the cruelties
of Edward the firft, and of the Lancaf-
trian family dwells as commander in
VOL. n. Z chief.

322 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

chief. " Storm this garrifon, and over-
turn Snowden from it's bafe/'^

* I fear this is but too true, amongft the lower clafs of the
Welfh people ; but I am forry to obferve fo fenfible and in-
telligent a man as Mr. Davies, giving way to prejudices,
which I fhould have hoped the doftrines of which he is
himfelf a teacher, would have taught him to forget.
Expreflions like the following, though too low and illiberal
to afFecl us, appear-to me inexcufable from the pen of a cler-
gyman. " This mode of burlefqutng the Wclfh" (for the
wrong pronunciation of fome Englifh words) " originated
" in the ridicule with which the Saxon viftors illiberally
" treated their conquered vafTals; and which is ftill carried
" on, in fpite of reafon and liberality, by the folly and ig~
" norance of the descendants of our once ittfullingfoes."

The " boorimnefs" of the Englifti peafantry " has no
" rival, and of their ignorance a clergyman of their own
*' gives us SATISFACTION, who a few years ago, on com-
" ing to his parifh, within twenty miles of the metropolis,
" could get no anfwer from feveral of his pariftuoners tw
«< a very plain queftion, viz. ' Who was Chrift ?' Can we
«• find fuch ignorance in Wales — the wilds of Ireland — or

«« the Highlands of Scotland ?"

rriN-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 323

ITINERARY.

AT Chefter the traveller may find it
worth his while to vifit the Cathedral,
the Caftle, the Walls, and St. John's
Church.

From Chefter to Caernarvon, (by Flint.)
^- miles.

74*

15

From Chefter to Hawarden, —

Chefter. — 4^ miles, Bretton, (in
Flintfhire.) — 7 1, pafs Hawarden Caf-
tle on the left. — 1^ Hawarden.

Flint,

Hawarden. — 1-£, New Inn Bridge.
(A little beyond are the ruins of Eu-
loe Caftle, in a copfe about £ of a mile
on the right.) — 2j, Pentre Bridge. —
4£, Northorp. — 7^, Flint.

At Flint is a caftle, the County gaol,
and a large fmelting houfe. — Inn, the
Royal Oak.

* In the firft column is the diftance from one town to ano-
ther ; and in the fecond, the diftance from the Tottq. from
whence the journey commences.

Z 2 Holywell.

324 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Holy well,

Flint.— 1| Nant y Moch. — £
Bagillt. — 3f Wallwine turnpike. —

5^ Holywell.

At Holywell, fee Wenefrede's
wall and mills, for different procefle^
in the preparation of lead, calamine,
copper, brafs, and cotten. Head Inn.
the White Horfe,* a good, but extra-
vagant houfe.

About l£ m. from the town, are
the ruins of Bafmgweck Abbey.

St. Afaph, — -

Holywell. — 1, pafs the lead mines.
• — 2~, See on an eminence at a
diftance on the right a high round
tower, fomewhat like an old wind-
mill, fuppofed to have been a Roman
Pharos. About 7, or 7-|, defcenc
into the vale of Clwyd. — Extenfive
profpecl: ; Denbigh at a diftance on
the left, St. Afaph in front, and
Rhyddlan Cattle on the right. — 10,
St. Afaph.

At St. Afaph are the Cathedral —
Bimop's palace — and Deanry. — From
the top of the Cathedral is an ex-
tenfive view along the vale. — Inn
the White Lion.

10

* At the Ipns printed in italics, Port Chaifes, or Horfes,
be had.

From

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 325

From St, Afaph, the tourift may
-

vitit Denbigh 5^-, or Rhyddlan 3.

Convey. (Caernarvonfhire.) —

St. Afaph. — 4, on right is Kin-
mael, the feat of the Rev. Edward
Hughes. — 4~, IJan St. Siors, or St.
George's. — 6j,Abergeley. — 9|-,Llan-
dulas. — 18, Ferry-Houfe* — 18£ Con-
wy.

At Conwy are the Caftle— Piae
Mawr. — and poor remains of the
Abbey. — The belt Inn is the Harp.

5-| m. South of Conwy, is Caer!
Hen, the Conovium of the Romans.

The tourift may crofs the ferry
again, and viiit l-|m. Bodfcallon, and
beyond it Gloddaeth, two elegant
feats of Sir Thomas Moftyn, Bart.
and not far diftant from thefe an old
Tower, and the few remains of Dig-
anwy Caftle.

184

Bangor Ferry ---

Conwy. — 5, the mountain Pen-
maen IVlawr. — 7, Lanfair Vechan.—
9, Aber, (a mile and half from Aber
is a celebrated waterfall.)— J 3, Llan-
dygai. — 13-J, on the right is Penrhyn,
the feat of Lord Penrhyn. — 15, Ban-
gor, (fee here, the Cathedral.)-^-] 6j,
Bangor Ferry. ;

49

Pod Chaifes are kept at this, houfe.

The

326* A TOUR ROUND NO&TH WALES.

The //;;/ at Bangor Ferry is a very
good one.

Caernarvon, —

At Caernarvon are the Caftle, and
Plas Mawr. — From the rock behind
the hotel, and from the Eagle Tower
are extenfive views. — Inn, the Hotel,
the beft in North Wales.

The diflance from Caernarvon to
the fummit of Snowdon, is rather
inore than 12 miles. — See Vol. I.
p. 216, where the track is defcribed.

•f a mile fouth, is Llanbublic, and
near it the remains of the Roman
Segontuim.

Caernarvon, to Llanberis

Caernarvon. — 2-j, Pont Rug. — 4,
on right Llanrug. — 6, end of lower
Lake.' — 8, Dolbadarn Caftle. — the
romantic vale of Llanberis. — (near
Dolbadarn is a cataract (Caunant
Mawr.} — 10, Llanberis.

On* the edge of the upper lake is
a fmall copper mine.

On the left of the village is the
lofty mountain Glyder Vawr, and at
the end of the vale a moft romantic
pafs.

From Dolbadarn Caftle, is an eaf)
afcent to the fummit of Snowdon.
onlv 4~ miles difUnt.

From

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 327

From Caernarvon, (in an excurfion
round Anglefea.)

Llanvihangel.

201

20

From Caernarvon to Gwyndy,-

Caernarvon. — 5 crofs the ftraights
of Menai, at Moel-y-don Ferry. — 5^,
about a mile to the right is Plas New-
ydd, the feat of the Earl of Uxbridge.
— 8, Llandaniel. — 11
14~, Llangefui. — 20, Gwyndy.

Gzvyndy is a good inn.

Holyhead,

Gwyndy. — • 3f, Bodedern. — 5,
Llanygenedl. — 8j, enter Holyhead
ifland. — 12, Holyhead.

Amlwch, about

Ty Mawr, the inn at Amlwch is a
fmall houfe. — A mile from Amlwch
arethePary's Copper-mines. — 2 miles,
eaft is Llan Elian.

Beaumaris, about

At Beaumaris is a caftle. — Inn,
the Bull's Head,* a comfortable
houfe.

~ mile, from Beaumaris is Baron
Hill, the feat of Lord Bulkeley.

1 mile, is Friars, the feat of Sir
Robert Williams, Bart, and near it a

* I am not quite certain whether poft-horfes are kept at
this inn or not, though I am inclined to think they are. '

barn

72|-

A TOUR ROU^D NORTH WALES.

b;irn, built from the ruins of Llanvaes
Abbev. — 3-7, Penmon Priory; and
juft off the point, Prieftholme Ifland,
celebrated as being the refort of the
fpecies of bird called Puffin.

Caernarvon,

Crofs the ferry to Aber, 3-§; and
go by Bangor.

20

From Caernarvon, (in an excurfion to
Llanrwft.)

From Caernarvon to Capel Cu-
rig, about

Caernarvon. — 5-|, Llanddiniolen.
near this place is an ancient fort, called
Dinas Dinorrddwig.)— - 13, Lord Pen-
rhyn's (late quarries. — Romantic vale
of Nant Frangon. — 17-|, Llyn Og-
wen. — 22, Capel Curig.

Capel Curig (lands in a fine moun-
tainous vale, in which are two lakes.
In 1798 Lord Penrhyn was erecting
a good inn here.

Llanwrft, (by Dolwyddelan Caf-
tle,) -----

Cape! Curig. — ^, Dolwyddelan Vil-
lage. — 6, Cattle. — 12, a cataraft on

Llugwy, (Rhaiadr y
Pont-y-pair. — 13^,Bettws. — 17,Llan-
rwft.

17

39

At

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

At Llanwrft, fee the Church and
Bridge. — Inn, the Eagles.

% mile from the town is Gwydir,
the ancient feat of the Wynne fa-
mily.

3 miles north are the poor remains
of Maenan Abbey.

Tan-y-bwlch Inn,

Llanrwft. — 3j, Bettvvs. — 5, fmall
cataract on the Conwy. — 6, the fall
of the Conwy, (Rhaiadr y Graig
Llwyd.) — 8, Penmachno. — 18, Ffef-
tiniog; and near it, the falls of the
Cynfael.— 19,theValeof Ffeftiniog.*
— 20, Tan-y-bwlch.

Caernarvon,

.Tan-y-bwlch. — 6^, Ponr-Aberglaf-
Jlyn.— 8, Beddgelert. — 12,Llyn Cwe-
llyn.— 13J, Nant Mill.— -15, Bettws.
— 20, Caernarvon.

20

20

59

79

From Caernarvon (round the remainder
of North Wales) to Shrew (bury.

From Caernarvon to Beddgelert; 12

Caernarvon. — |, Segontium and
Llanbublic. — 4, Pont Curnant. — 5,

* I have here called this the Vale of FfeiHniog, on account
of it's being generally knewn by that name. — It's prope*
name is Cium Maentwrog, or the Vale of Maentwrog.

VOL. u. A a Bettws.

33° A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Bettws.— 6j , on the left, Plas y Na.nt,
a holife belonging to Sir Robert Wil-
liams, Bart; and on the right, a fmall
cafcade at Nant Mill. — 7, Llyn Cwe-
llyn. — See Snowdon on the left. —
(The tourift who wifhes to vifit Llyn
y Dywarchen, in which is the Float-
ing liland, muft turn to the right,
foon after he has paflcd Llyn Cwe-
llyn.— 12, Beddgelert.

At Beddgelert there is a fmall inn ;
but fo wretchedly bad, as to afford
fcarcely any accommodations that
are comfortable.

From Beddgelert, the diftance is
1-5- mile to Pont-Aberglalllyn, (the
Devil's Bridge.) — 7, to Penmorfa;-
and 10, to Criccieth, where are the
remains of an old caftle.

The traveller mould by all means
viiit the vale near Beddgelert, callec
Gwynant. 1-j mile on the left, is
Dinas Emrys, the place from whenc
Merlin's prophecies were delivered. —
2, Llyn-y-dinas. — 4--J, Llyn Gwy-
nant; not far from which, is a lofty
cataraft, called Rbaidr y Cwm Dyli.

Snowdon may be afcended from
Beddgelert i the dithmce'to the fum-
mit is about 6 miles; but th,e track
is much-more rugged than that from
Dolbadarn Caftle, near Llanberis.

Tan-y-bwlch, (Merioneth fliire, )

Beddgelert.

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 331

good. — No

Beddgelert.— 1£, Pont- Aberglaf-
llyn. Along the mountain road,
which is exceffively bad for carriages,
are feveral extended profpecls. — 8 m.
Tan-y-bwlch.

The inn is fmall, but
poft-horfes to be had, either here or
at Beddgelert, in 1798.* — The houfe
ftands on an eminence in the vale of
Ffeftiniog.

Not far from the inn, is Tan-y-
bwlch Hall, the feat of Oakley,

Efq.

Ffeftiniog is about 3 miles diftant:
near it are the falls of the Cynfael. —
The road lays along the vale.

Harlech, 10

Tan-y-bwlch. — 1, Maentwrog. —
1-|, having pafled a fmall bridge, at
fdine diftance on the left is a cata-
racl, (Rhaiadr dii). — 4, Llyn Tecwyn
ucha. — 5, Llantecwyn. — 5-£, Llyr
Tecwyn iia. — 7, Pont y Crudd. — 10
Harlech.

At Harlech are the remains of a
caftle. — Inn, very fmall, but clean

30

* Though there are no poft towns betwixt Caernarvon
and Dolgelle, a diftance of forty miles, yet the inn-keepers at
thofe places will fend out chaifes and four, or four horfcs to
any carriage, for the whole journey. The charge in 1^98
was four gui.ieasj and the expences; which; confidering ths
road they had to go, do^'hot feern too much.

A a 2 kept

332 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

kept by Watkin Amoyl. — There are
only two beds, and thofe in the fame
room.

From Harlech, the tourift may
probably, with the guide, make an
excurfion about 4- miles, to the ro-
mantic hollow Cwm Bychan ; and
from thence, round the itill more ro-
mantic Bwlch Tythead, and Drws
Ardudwy, in the whole about 18
miles.

Yarmouth," :

Harlech.— If , Llanfair.— 2j, Llan-
bedir.— (In a field on the right, near
Llanbedir, are two tall upright ftones,
probably what the Britifh, in former
times, called Meini Gwyr, the Stones
of the Heroes.) — 5f, Llandwye. (From
hence is a road on the left to Corf-
y-gedol; diftant if mile, an an-
cient feat of the Vaughans, but now
belonging to Sir Thqmas Moftyn,
Bart. — 8£, Llan Aber. — 10, Bar-
mouth.

The Corf y-gedol Arms is an excel-
lent inn.

There is a charming walk, along
the beach on the bank of the river
Maw, near Barmouth.

Dolgelle. —

Barmouth. — 2f, Glan-y-dwr. — 8,
IJanelltid. — 10, Dolgelle.

10

10

The

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 333

The Golden Lion, at Dolgelle, is a
tolerably good inn.

From Dolgelle, it is 1 mile to
Hengwrt, a feat belonging to the
Vaughans. — -if, to Y Vaner, or
Kemmer Abbey. — 6, to the cataradl
iat Dolymelynllyn. — 9, to two others,
Piftyll y Cain, and Rhaiadr y Maw-
ddach. — The tourift, after having vi-
fited thefe,may return, along another
road, by the village of Llanfachredd,
and Nanney, another feat of the
Vaughan family. — It will be necef-
fary to take a guide.

From Dolgelle, guides maybe had
to afcend the mountain Cader Idris,
whofe fummit is about »J miles dif-
tant

Machynlleth,

Dolgelle. — 5, Llyn Trigraienyn.—
7, a fmall public houfe, (the B/u,
Lion) from whence a guide may be
bad to the fummit of Cader Idris.-—
4 miles diftant^fee at a diftance Llyi
Mwyngil. — 14, crofs the Dovey.—
15, Machynlleth.

At Machynlleth is an old build
ing, in which Owen Glendwr is faic
to have aflembled his parliament. —
The Eagles is the beft inn.

Llanydloes, ( Montgomery (hire, )

Machynlleth. — About half-way
and near 1-| mile on the right, is a ca

15

19

6-5

tara:l

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

taraft, called Ffrwd y Pennant. — Pin-
limmon vifible at a diftance on the
right. — Crofs the Severn ; — and 19,
enter Llanydloes.

The'New /««, at Llanydloes, a com-
fortable houfe.

Newtown,

Llanydloes. — 6-J, Llandinam. — 8,
crofs river to Caer Sws, an old Ro-
man ftation about a mile diftant; —
and return 10, Pen y Strywad.
Newtown.

The Bear is the chief inn at New-
town.

Dolforwyn Caftle is 4 miles dif-
tant; and \\ mile on the road to
Builth is a cataraft, but not worth
feeing.

Montgomery,

At Montgomery fee the caftle and
church. — The Dragon is a good inn.

Welfh Pool, -

Montgomery. — 7-J on the left
Powis Caftle.— 9, Welfh Pool.

The Oak is the head inn.

Ofweftry, (Shropfhire,)

Welfli Pool.— 6, pafs the Breiddin
Hills on the right. — 9, crofs, by a
ferry, the river Virnwy. — 9^, Llany
mynech. — ^The Crofs Keys, a fmal

13

15

97

130

mn

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

inn in this place, is kept by Mr. Ro-
bert Baugh, a very ingenious man,
the engraver of both the copies of
Evans's map of North Wales. — 13-j,
on the right, a houfe of induftry. —
15, Ofweftry.

At Ofweftry, fee the church, St.
Ofwald's well, and the mount where
the caftle ftood. — The head inn is the
Crofs Keys.

Wrexham, (Denbighfhire,) 151. i45j

Ofweftry. — 5i, Chirk.— (See the
Church ; the aqueduct over the vale
of Ceiriog; and 2 miles diftant, Chirk
Caftle, the feat of Richard Middle-
ton, Efq.) — View from thence into
feventeen different counties. — 8, New
Bridge. — 10, Ruabon, where, in 1798,
there was a neat fmall inn building. —
(From this place, the tourift may vifit
Wynnftay, the feat of Sir Watkin Wil-
liams Wynne, Bart ; and near it, Nant
y Bele, where there is a moft elegant
profpecl: on the Dee; 5^ miles, is
O verton ; and 9, Bangor.) — 1 3 ~, on the
right, is Erddig, the feat of Philip
Yorke, Efq. — 15 , Wrexham.

See the church at Wrexham; anc
in it a moft beautiful monument o!
Mrs. Mary Middleton.

There are two good inns, the firft
the Eagle s, and the other the Red Lion

5i miles from Wrexham is Holt
where are the poor remains of a caftle .

4 Mold,

" A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Mold, (Flintfhire,)-

Wrexham — 4|, Cedgidow Bridge.
5-i Caergurle, near which are a few
remains of it's Cattle,— 6, Hope.—
12, Mold.

See the church and the Bayley
Mill, on which the Caftle flood.— Inn,
the Dragon, an extravagant houfe.

l| from Mold, is Rhual, the feat of
the Griffith family, near which is
Macs Garmon, where A. D. 448, the
famous ALLELUIA viftory was ob-
X tained by the Britons, over the Picts
and Scots.

Holy well,

Mold.— 3^, Northop.— 6, Halkin.
— 9, HoIywelL

St. Afaph,

Denbigh, (Denbighihire)

St. Afaph. — Along the vale of
..ehvyd.— 6, Denbigh.

See the caftle. — There are two inns
at Denbigh, the Crown, and the
Black Bull; the former a moft extra-
vagant houfe.

Ruthin, - — •

Denbigh. — Still along the vale of
Clwyd. — 3, Llanrhaidr, (See the

£ 158

10

16'

177

183

191

church

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 337

'church and well at this place.) — 8
Ruthin.

At Ruthin are the remains of a
caftle. There is a Large Inn here ;
but the Crofs Foxes, will be found
the moft comfortable for any perfons,
except thofe who come in carriages.

Llangollen, — — — « —

Ruthin. — 10-j, enter the vale
Crucis. — 11^-, pafs the pillar of Eli-
Teg, in a meadow on the left. — llj,
on left Valle Crucis Abbey. — See
Caftell Dinas Bran, on an eminence
beyond.

The head inn at Llangollen is the
Hand, where moft perfons complain
of bad attendance — 13i, Llangollen.

Vifit Valie Crucis Abbey. — the
pillar of Elifeg. — And Caftefl Dinas
Bran ; the latter is about a mile from
Llangollen.

Go round the vale of Llangollen,
(about 1O miles). — Near Font Cyf-
fyllre. 4 miles, fee an immenfe aque-
dutSt, for the Ellefmere canal, over the
vale.

Corvven, Merionethlhire,

Llangollen. — 3, on oppofite bank
of the Dee, fee Llandyfilio Hall. — 7,
the place on which Owen Glyndwr's
palace flood, — 10, Corwen.

1S1
io2

10

VOL. rr.

B b

On

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

On the bill oppofite to the town
of Corvven, is a great circle of ftones
called YCaerWen.

The New Inn, is the only one in
the place.

b\ miles, from Corwen, on the road
to Llannvfr, is Pont y Glyn, where
there is a fine cafcade.

Bala,«

Conven. — Enter the vale of Edeir-
ncon.- — '2\, Cynwyd, not far from
whence is a cataract, called Rhaiadr
Cynwyd. — b\ Llandrill©. — 9-|, croft
the Dee, and pafs Llanderfel.-— 12.
Lanvawr. — 13~, Bala.

Near Bala are the lake. — Tom-
men y Bala, and another mount neai
the town, on which have been Bri-
tifli forts.

The Bull is a very comfortable inn

C*o round the Lake, 12 miles, (no
in carriages, the road will not admi
it.)— Crofs Pont Mwnwglyllyn, anc
proceed along the call fide. — 4 miles
Llangower. — 6-~, crofstheTurch, anc
fee the ftones carried bv the flream ii
a thundcrftorm, in June, 1781. — 1~
Llamvchllyn. — (A mile beyond is ai
ancient Britifli fort, called Cartel
Corndochon.)- — 8, on right Caergai
" , Llan y cil.— 12, Bala.

228

Llan-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Llanrhaiadr, Mongomeryfhire -

Bala. — l|, Pont Cynwyd. — 2,
Rhiwedog. — 7, Bilker Gerrig. — -10|,
Langynog. — 15, Llanrhaiadr.

There is a fmall inn, (the Coach
and Horfes/ at Llanrhaiadr.

4% miles diftant, is the celebrated
X cataraft Fifty 11 Rhaiadr.

Shrewfbury, —

Llanrhaiadr. — 34, Llangedwin
village, and on the left Llangedwin
Hall, a feat of Sir Watkin Williams
Wynne, Bart.— 8, Llan y Blodvvel.-
10, Llanymynech. — 14, Knockin. —
18, Neflcliffe.— -22, Montford Bridge.
— 26, Shrewfbury.

At Shrewfbury, the tourift may
find amufement in vifiting the
churches. — the quarry. — the free
fchool. — and the caftle.

15! 243

269

B b 3

ITI:

34° A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

FROM SHREWSBURY ROUND NORTH V7ALES.

FROMShrewfburytoLlanriadr,*

Bala,

Corwen,

Llangollen,

Ruthin,

Denbigh, ............. . ..... ....

St. Afaph, ........... , ..

Holywell, .......... .

Mold, ........ ............ ,

Wrexham,
Ofweftry,
Welfh Pool, ........

Montgomery,
Newtown, ....... ......

10

13

8

6

10

15^
15

26
41

78

86

92

102

in

139
154
163
172

* For the particulars of the road betwixt the towns, the
tourift may refer to the places in the Itinerary the other way.

Llan-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES. 34,!

Llanydloes, , 13 185

Machynlleth, . 19 204

Dolgelle, 15 219

Barmouth, 10 229

Harlech, 10 239

Tan-y-bwlch, 10 249

Beddgelert, ,, 8 257

Caernarvon, ,.. 12 269

Caernarvon to Llanberis, 10

From Caernarvon, (in an Ex-
curfion round Anglefea.)

ToGwyndy, 2O

Holyhead, i

Amlwch, „ 20 524

Beaumaris, 20

Caernarvon, 20

From Caernarvon, (in an ex-
curfion to Llanrwft.)

ToCapel Curig, 22

J^lanrwft, (by Dolwyddelan Caf-

tle,)..,.., .17 39

Tan-

A TOUR

NOftTH WALES.

Tan-y-bwlch Inn, ................. '20 1 59

Caernarvon, ..................... .... 20 79

From Caernarvon to Chefter.
To Bangor Ferry,
Conwy, ............................ ...

St. Afaph,

Holywell, ............................ 10

Flint» ......... • ........................ 5 594

Hawarden.. .

4

APPENDIX.

OF A

JOURNEY INTO WALES;

3!n 'Efoo letter*,
TO MR. BOWER.

BY GEORGE LORD LYTTLETON.

Publifhed with his other Mifcellaneous Works, in one Volume
Quarto, by G. E. Ayfcough, Efq.

LETTER I.

Brynker, In CarnarvonJJiire, July 6, 1756.

JL write this from the foot of Snow-
don, which I propofed to afcend this afternoon;
but alas ! the top of it, and all the fine prof-
peels which I hoped to fee from thence, are
covered with rain ; I therefore fit down to
write you an account of my travels thus far,
as I promifed when I left you, and to fatisfy
your defire of feeing North Wales in defcrip-
tion at leaft, fince you are not at leifure to ac-
company me thither.

Ifet

544 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

I fet out from Bewdley, with Mr. D^ ,

and Mr. P , on 'I uefday laft. In our way

thence to Ludlovv, we few Sir R. B 's, in

a charming fituation for the beauty of the
profpefrs, but too much expofed, and in a
dirty country. The houfe is fpoilcd by too
fine a (lair-cafe and hall, to which the other
rooms are by no means proportioned. Some of
them are wainfcotted and inlaid very finely.
There is a park, which would be more beauti-
ful, if the mafter of it had a little more tafte.
I hear his fon has a good one ; but the Baronet
himfelf hath not much more than his anceftor,
who was killed by E. Douglas, at the battle of
Shrewfbury. From this place we proceeded to
the Clee Hill, a mountain you have often feen
from my park ; it affords a lovely profpecl: on
every fide, but it is more difficult to pafs over
than any in Wales, that I have yet feen -y being
covered all over with loofe Clones, or rather
with pieces of rocks. However we parted it
without any hurt to ourfelves or horfes.

LudJow is a fine, handfome-*mvn, and has
an old Caftle, now in a neglected and ruinous
fhite ; but which, by it's remains, appears to
have been once a very ftrong fortrefs, and an
habitation, very fui table to the power and
dignity of the Lord Prefidcnt of Wales, who
relided there. Not far from this town is Okely

Park,

APPENDIX. 345

Park, belonging to Lord Powis, and part of
that foreft which Milton, in his Mafque, fup-
pofes to have been inhabited by Comus and
his rout. The God is now vanquilhed ; but,
at the revolution of every feven years, his
rout does not fail to keep up orgies there, and
in the neighbouring town ; as Lord Powis
knows to his colt, for he has fpent twenty or
thirty thoufand pounds, in entertaining them
at thefe feafons ; which is the reafon that he
has no houfe at this place for him to live in.

He talks of building one in the Park, and
the fituation deferves it; for there are many
fcenes, which not only Comus, but the Lady
of Milton's Mafque, would have taken delight
in, if they had received the improvements they
are capable of, from a man of good tafte; but
they are as yet very rude and neglected. In
our way from hence to'Montgomery, we paf-
fed through a country very romantic and plea-
fant, in i^iany fpots ; in which we faw farms
fo well fituated, that they appeared to us more
delightful (ituations than Clermont or Bur-
leigh. At laft we came by a gentleman's
houfe, on the fide of a hill opening to a fweet
valley ; which feemed to be built in a tafte
much fuperior to that of a mere country
Efquire. We therefore ftopt, and defired to
fee it, which curiofity was well paid for : we
VOL. ii. C c found

34.6 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

found it the neatcft and bell houfe, of a mode-
rate lize, that ever we favv. The mafter it
fepms, was bred to the law, but quitted the
profelljon about fifteen years ago, and retired
into the country, upon an eflate of £500 per
annum,, with a wife and four children ; notwith-
ftanding which encumberances, he fpund
means to fit up the houfe in the manner we
faw it, with remarkable elegance, and to plant
all the hill about him with groves and clumps
of trees, that together with an admirable
profpecl feen from it, render it a place which
a monarch might envy. But, to let you fee
how vulgar minds value fuch improvements,
I mud tell you an anfwer made by our guide,
who was a fervant to Lord Powis's fteward,
and fpoke, I prefume, the fenfe of his mafter :
upon our expreffing fome wonder that this
gentleman had been able to do fo much with
fo fmall a fortune ; " I do not, faid he, know
'* how it is, but he is always doing fome non-
"' fefe or other." I apprehend, moft of my
neighbours would give the fame accpun^ of
my improvements at Hagley.

Montgomery town is no better th#a a vi\-

lage ; and all that remains of a,n old Qaftlc

there, is about a third part of a ruinous

tower ; but nothing can be fiaer than the

X fituation of it and the profpeft. Jt mufl

liave

APPENDIX. 347

liave been exceeding ftrong in ancient times,
able to refift all the forces of the Welm: to
bridle them, it was built in the reign of Wil-
liam Rufus ; three fides of it are a precipice
quite inacceffible, guarded by a deep and
broad ditch. I was forry that more of fo
noble a Caftle did not remain, but glad to
think, that, by our incorporating union with
the Welfh, this and many others, which have
been ere&ed to fecure the neighbouring
counties of England, againft their incurfions,
or to maintain our fovereignty over that
fierce and warlike people, are now become
ufelefs.

From hence we travelled, with infinite
pleafure (through the moft charming country
my eyes ever beheld, or my imagination can
paint) to Powis Caftle, part of which was
burnt down about thirty years ago; but there
are ftill remains of a great lioufe, fituated fo
finely, and fo nobly, th3t, were I in the place
of Lord Powis, I fhould foffake Okely Park,
with all it's beauties, and fix my feat as near
there, as the moft eligible in every refpeft.
About £3000 laid out upon it, would make it
the moft auguft place in the kingdom. It Hands
upon the fide of a very high hill ; below lies
a vale of incomparable beauty, with the Se-
vern winding through it, the town of Welfh
C c 2 Pool,

34$ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WAXES.

Poo], terminated with high mountains. The
oppofite fide is beautifully cultivated half
way up, and green to the top except in one
or two hills, whofe fummits are rocky, and
of grotefque fliapes, that give variety and
fpirit to the profpecl. Above the Caftle is a
long ridge of hills finely (haded, part of which
is in the Park , and ftill higher is a terrace, up
to which you are led through very fine lawns,
from whence you have a view that exceeds
all defcription. The county of Montgomery,
which lies all within this view, is to my eyes
the moft beautiful in South Britain ; and
though I have not been in Scotland, I cannot
believe I (hall find any place there fuperior, or
equal, to it ; becaufe the Highlands are all
uncultivated, and the lowlands want wood -3
whereas this country is admirably fliaded
with hedge-rows. It has a lovely mixture of
cornfields and meadows, though more of the
latter. The yales and bottoms are large,
and the mountains, that rife like a rampart
all around, add a magnificence and grandeur
to the fcene, withput giving you any horror
or dreadful ideas, becaufe at Powis Caftle
they appear at fuch a diftance as not to deftroy
the beauty and foftnefs of the country be-
tween them. There are indeed fome high
hills within that inclofure, but being woody
5 and

APPENDIX. 349

and green, they make a more pleafing variety,
and take off nothing from the profpeft.
The Caftle has an old fafhioned garden jufl
under it, which a few alterations might make
very pretty i for there is a command of water
and wood in it, which may be fo managed as
to produce all the beauties that art can add,
to what liberal nature has fo laviflily done for
this place. We went from thence to fee
Peftill * Rhaider, a famous cafcade ; but it
did not quite anfwer my expe&ations, for
though the fall is fo high, the dream is but
narrow, and it wants the complement of
wood, the water falling like a fpout on an
even defcent, down the middle of a wide
naked rock, without any breaks to fcatter the
water. Upon the whole, it gave me but little
pleafure.

After having feen the Velino, we lay that
night at the houfe of a gentleman who had
the care of Lord Powis'slead mines ; it Hands
in a valley, which feems the abode of quiet
and fecuriry, furrounded with very high
mountains on all fides ; but in itfelf airy,
foft and agreeable. j" If a man was difpofed
to forget the world, and be forgotten by it,
he could not find a more proper place. In
fome of thofe mountains are veins of lead

* Piftyll Rhaiadr. t Probably the vale of Llangunog.

ore,

35° A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

ore, which have been fo rich as to produce in
time pad ^20,000 pe.t annum, to the old Duke
of Povvis, but they are not near fo valuable
now. Perhaps, holy father, you will object,
that the idea of wealth dug up in this place
does not confift with that of retirement. I
agree it does not ; but, all the wealth being
hid underground, the eye fees nothing there
but peace and tranquility.

The next morning we afcended the moun-
tain of Berwin,* one of the higheft in Wales ;
and when we came to the top of it, a prof-
pe£t opened to us, which ftruck the mind with
awful aftonifhment. Nature is in all her ina-
jefty there ; but it is the majefty of a tyrant
frowning over the ruins and defolation of a
country. The enormous mountains, or ra-
ther rocks, of Merionethshire inclofed us all
around. There is not upon thefe mountains
a tree, a (hrub, or a blade of grafs ; nor did
we fee any marks of habitations or culture in
the whole fpace. Between them is a folitudc
fit for defpair to inhabit ; whereas all we had
feen before in Wales feemed formed to in-
fpire the meditations of love. We were fome
hours in croffing this defart, and then had the
view of a fine woody .vale, but narrow and
deep, through which a rivulet ran as clear

* Cader Ferwytv

and

APPENDIX.

and rapid as your Scotch burns, winding in
very agreeable forms, with a very pretty
cafcade. On the edge of this valley we
travelled on foot, for the fleepnefs of the road
would not allow us to ride without fome
danger j and in about half an hour we came
to a more open country, though ftill inclofed
with hills, in which we faw the town of Bala,
with it's beautiful lake. The town is fmall
and ill-built -3 but the lake is a fine objeft ;
it is about three miles in length, and one in
breadth; the water of it is clear, and of a
bright filver colour. The river Dee runs
through very rich meadows ; at the other end
are towering high mountains ; on the fides
are gra0y hills, but not fo well wooded as I
could wifh them to be : there is alfo a bridge
pf ftone built over the river, and a gentleman's
houfe, which embellifhes the profpe£t. But
what Bala is the rnoft famous for, is the beauty
of it's women, and indeed I there faw fome
of the prettieft girls I evey beheld. The
Jake produces very fine trout, and a fifh called
tybiting* peculiar to itfelf, and of fo delicate
a tafte, that 1 believe you would prefer the
flavour of it to the lips of the fair maids at Bala.
After we left the banks of the lake, where
we had an agreeable day, we got again into

* A fpecics of Alpine fifty-, the Saltiio Lavaratus of Lin-
su*, caHeci by the Wallh. Gwyniad,

the

352 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the defart ; but lefs horrid than I have already
defcribed, the vale being more fertile, and
feeding fome cattle. Nothing remarkable
occurred in our ride, until we came to Fefti-
niog a village in Merionethfhire, the vale be-
fore which is the moft perfectly beautiful o
all we had feen. From the height of this
village you have a view of the fea. The
hills are green and well {haded with wood.
There is a lovely rivulet, which winds
through the bottom; on each fide are mea-
dows, and above are corn fields, along the
fides of the hills; at each end are high moun-
tains, which feem placed there to guard this
charming retreat againft any invaders. With
the woman one loves, with the friend of one's
heart, and a good ftudy of books, one might
pafs an age there, and think it a day. If you
have a mind to live long, and renew your youth,
come with Mrs. Bower, and fettle at Feftiniog.
Not long ago there died in that neighbour-
hood an honeft Welfli Farmer, who was 105
years of age : by his firft wife he had 30 chil-
dren, 10 by his fecond, 4 by his third, and 7
by two concubines ; his youngeft fon was
81 years younger than his eldeft, and 80O per-
fons, defcendcd from his body, attended his
funeral . When we had fkirted this happy vale
an hour or two, we came to a narrow branch
of the fea which is dry at low water. As

we

APPENDIX.

we pafled over the fands, we were furprized
to fee that all the cattle preferred that bar-
ren place to the meadows. The guide faid,
it was to avoid a fly, which in the heat of
the day came out of the woods, and infefted
them in the valleys. The view of the faid
fands are terrible, as they are hemmed in on
each fide with very high hills, but broken into
a thoufand irregular fhapes. At one end is
the ocean, at the other the formidable moun-
tains of Snowdon, black and naked rocks,
which feemed to be piled one above the other.
The fummits of fome of them are covered
with clouds, and cannot be afcended. They
do altogether ftrongly excite the idea of Bur-
net, of their being the fragment of a demo-
limed world. The rain which was falling
when I began to write this letter did not laft
long ; it cleared up after dinner, and gave us
a fine evening, which employed us in riding
along the fea coaft, which is here very cold.

The grandeur of the ocean, correfponding
with that of the mountain, formed a majeflic
and folemn fcene ; ideas of immenfity fwelled
and exalted our minds at the fight ; all lefler
objects appeared mean and trifling, fo that we
could hardly do juftice to the ruins of an old
caftle*, fituated upon the top of a conical
hill, the foot of which is warned by the fea,
* Criccieth.

VOL. ii. D d and

354 A TOUR -ROUND N'OKTH WALES.

and which has every feature that can give a
romantic appearance.

This morning (July 7,) being fair, we vei>
tured to climb up to the top of a mountain,
not indeed fo high as Snowdon, which is here
called Moel Guidon*, i. e. the neft of the
eagle ; but one degree lower than that cal-
led Moel Happock,f the neft of the hawk ;
from whence we faw a Phenomenon, new
to our eyes, but common in Wales ; on one
fide was midnight, on the other bright day ;
the whole extent of the mountain of Snow-
don, on our left hand, was wrapped in clouds,
from top to bottom ; but on the right the fun
ihone molt glorioufly over the fea-coaft of
Carnarvon. The hill we flood upon was
perfe£tly clear, the way we came up a pretty
eafy afcent ; but before us was a precipice
of many hundred yards, and below, a vale,
which, though not cultivated, has much fa-
vage beauty ; the fides were fteep, and fring-
ed with low wood.

There were two little lakes,J or rather large
pools, that flood in the bottom, from which
iffued a rivulet, that ferpentined in view for

* Moel Gwdion : — this does not mean the " neft of eagle."
Mod fignifies a fmooth hill ; and Gwdion is faid to be the name \"
of a famous aftronomer, + Moel Hebog, the Ml of the hawk. ,X

| Llyn y Dinas, and Llyn Gwynanf, or Llyn Cwellyn
and Llyn y Cader.

tWQ

355

two or three miles^ and was a pleafing relief
to the eyes.

But the mountains of Snowdon, covered
with darknefs and thick clouds, called to my
memory the fall of Mount Sinai, with the
laws delivered from it, and filled my mind
with religious awe.

This afternoon we propofe going to Car-
narvon, and you may expect a continuation
of my travels from Shrewfbury, which is
our laft ftage. Through the whole round of
them, we heartily wifhed for you, and your
friend Browne, and your friend Mrs. S - j
who is a paflionate admirer of profpech -t
and that you could have borrowed the chariot
of fome gracious fairy, or courteous enchanter,
and flown through the air with us. You
know I always admired Mrs, S— — for the
greatnefs of her tafte, and fublime love of
nature, as well as for all her other perfections .
Adieu, my dear Bower. I am perfectly well,
tat like a horfe, andjleep like a monk j fo that I
may, by this ramble, preferve a ftock of health,
that may laft all winter, and carry me
through my parliamentary campaign. If you
write to the Madona,* do not fail to aflure
her of my trueft devotion. The moft zealous
Welfli catholic does not honour St. Winni*

* A lady to whom her friends gave that appellation. 'Lord
Ljttldon*

D d 2 fred

fred more than I do her. I wifli you may
not be tired with my travels -y but you know
I am performing my promife.

I remain your's, &c.

LYTTLETON.

DEAR BOWER,

LETTER II.

, July 14, 1756.

Jaft letter ended in fet-
ting out for Carnarvon, where I arrived that af-
ternoon. I had a very fine view of the fea ; and
one of the fined towns I had feen in England
or Wales; the old walls of which, with their
towers and bulwarks, are almoft entire; they
are high, and ftrongly buflt. The towers are
round, and rather more of the Roman than the
Gothic form of architecture. At one end they
join to the wall of the caftle, which is a vaft
and noble building, of which the outiide is
Jikewife well prefervetf, but the infide is de-
moliihed. The people here fhew the remains
of a chamber, where King Edward the Second
was born, and received the fubmiffion of all
the nobility in Wales in his cradle. The caf-
tle itfelf was built by his father, and is uideed
a noble work.

As

APPENDIX.

As we rode from Carnarvon, the country
about was foftened into a fcerce of the moft
pleafing kind ; and was rendered more fo, by
the contraft with that from which we came.
We travelled along the fhore of Menai, an
arm of the fea, as broad as the Thames, over
againft Lord Duncannon's. Our road led us
over fine lhady lawns, perfumed fo with ho-
neyfuckles, that they were a paradifetto. Over
gentle hills, from whence we had a lovely
view of the Menai, and the Ifle of Anglefea,
which lies on the oppofite fide of it 5 and then
loft them again in agreeable valleys, like thofe
of Reading, or the Hertfordfhire vales. We
enjoyed thefe fcenes for fome miles, till we
came into a ferry, by which we paffed into
Anglefey, and landed at the feat of Sir Ni-
cholas Bayley,* which is the pleafanteft fpot
in the iiland. He has gotherized an old houfe
with good judgment and tafte. The view
from it is charming; he fees the fweet coun-
try, through which we had travelled, from
Carnarvon to Snowdon above it, which en-
nobles the profpeft; the Menai winds, in a
moft beautiful manner,juft under his windows;
his woods (hade the banks on each fide of it,
quite down to the water; above which, in-
termixed with them, are ever-green lawns,
which, if helped with a very little art, would,

* PlasNewyrfd,

together

35$ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

together with his wood, make a garden or
park of the moft perfect beauty; but all is yet
in a rude and neglected ftate. From thence
we went to Baron-hill, the feat of Lord Bulke-
ley, above the town of Beaumaris, in the fame
ifland; it has a view of the fea, and coaft of
Carnarvon ; which is indeed very fine, but I
think inferior to that of Lord Edgecombe's,
with which I have heard it compared. The
houfe is a bad one; the gardens are made in a
very fine tafte; but, upon the whole, I like it
much lefs than Sir N. Bayley's, though the re-
putation of the former is greater in Wales.

All the reft of the Ifle of Anglefea is a na-
ked and unpleafant country, without a tree or
hedge to be feen in it, uncultivated ftill, from
the obftinacyof the people, in adhering to the
ignorance of their forefathers; fo that I am
told, that it does not produce the tenth part
of what the land is capable of, if improved by
the agriculture of England. From Beaumaris
we rode over the Sands, at low water, to Pen-
man Mawr, a high and rocky mountain, the
paflage over which muft have been very fright-
ful, before they built a wall along the edge of
the road, which fecures you from the danger
of falling down the precipice that is below it
into the fea; but with this guard it is very
agreeable, the profpe£i of the fea and the

country being very fine.

I ne-

APPENDIX. 359

1 never faw any thing that ftruck me more
than the firft view of Conway Caftle, to which -V"
we foon came, after patting this mountain. It
was built by Edward the Firft, in much the
fame ftile with that of Carnarvon ; but flronger
and more regular, The iituation is noble, and
it (lands upon a rock of confiderable height;
inftead of a ditch, three fides of it are defended
by an arm of the fea, and four turrets, that
fife above the towers, befides two others at
.one end, Handing below the others, about the
middle of the rock, that overcharges the fea.
The walls between are battlements, and look;
very ftrong; they are, in fome places, fourteen
:or fifteen feet thick, in none lefs than twelve.
The whole together hath the grandeft appear*
ance of any building I ever beheld, efpecially
as the walls of the town, which are built like
thofe of Carnarvon, but with bolder and
handfomer towers, appear right in one view
to the eye with the caftle, when you firft ap-
proach it. All the outfide remains, except
one tower, as in the time of Edward the Firft;
and that was not demolished, either with bat-
tering engines, or with cannons, but by the
people of the place taking ftones from the
foundation, for their own ufe, whenever they
pleafed; the confequence of which was. the
.greateft part of the tower fell into the fea; but

the

360 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

the upper part more furprifingly continues ftill
firm, in the form of an arch; and Lord Hert-
ford, the prefent proprietor, hath forbid any
dilapidation for the future. We were told,
his grandfather would have lived in this caf-
tle, could he have purchafed any lands in the
country about 5 but, finding none to be fold,
he dropped the defign.

J wim he had purfued it, for then we might
have feen the infide entire; a fight which
would have given rne a great deal of pleafure.
But now the floors, ceilings, and roofs, are all
taken away, fo that we can hardly guefs at
it's ancient magnificence. The hall mud have
been a noble room ; it is 100 feet long, 30
wide, and 30 high; the roof was fupported
by very beautiful arches, which ftill remain.
There are two chimneys in it, and it was well
lighted. The ftone-work of the windows is
exceeding handfome. Had our friend Millar
(the builder of Hagley Houfe) been with us,
he would have fallen down and adored the
architect. The eight towers feem to have
contained three very good bed-chambers each,
placed one above another, befides fome upper
rooms. The chambers are 18 feet diameter,
except one, called the King's chamber, which
has a bow window, gained out of the thick-
nefs of the wall; and the room is by that

means

APPENDIX. 361

irieans extended above 30 feet; over the arch
of that window are the arms of Edward the
Firft.

This, and all the dtljer chambers, appear to
the eye 12 or 13 feet high; but I am promifed
an accurate plan of thfe whole by one of the
country. It certainly merits very particular
examination; but 1 mould have been more
curious about it, had it been built in Henry the
Second's time. From Gonway Caftle, we tra-
velled half a day's journey, through a very ro-
mantic country, to Rudland, or rather Land-
caftle,* the remains of which are lefs perfect
than Carnarvon or Conway ; nor was it ever
equal to them, either in extent or beauty,
which I am forry for, as // -was built by Henry
the Second.^ Not far from hence, at a place
called Bodruddan, we pafled a rainy day, in a
very comfortable manner, with an old ac-
quaintance of mine, who is the lady of the
caftle, and hath forbid all depredations, which
the people of the neighbourhood ufed to
make, by taking it down, to build and repair
their houfes and pigfties, which would, have

* How the noble author fell into this miftake I know
X not; Ryddlan fignifies the red bank.

f It was repaired and fortified by Henry II. in the year
1157; but it appears to have been founded upwards of a
century before that time, See Vol; I,

VOL, n. E e de-

demolimed it like the tower of Conway. The
next morning we went to the tops of the hill,
from whence we had a full view of the vale
of Clwydd, from one end to the other, which
is equalled by none in England, for fertility X
and beauty. There is neither mountain or
rock to be feen in any part of it. After you
turn your back upon Rudland, the hills on one
fide of it rife very gradually by gentle afcents;
moft of them are cultivated quite to their
fummitsj others half way upj and, when the-
tops are not enclofed, they are a fine grafly
down, like Clent-hill, and fhaded and enli-
vened with wood, like the flopes in my park ;
but yet I prefer the fcenes in Montgomery-
mire to this lively vale: there is a great
beauty in this, but there is no majefty ; whereas
there, as in the mind of our- friend the Madona,
the foft and the agreeable is mixed with the
noble, the great, and the fublime. About the
middle of this vale, upon the brow of a hill,
ftands Denbigh Caftle, a very fine ruin; it en-
clofes as much ground as Conway or Carnar-
von, but hath not fo much building. The
towers of it are Handing at a very conliderable
diitance from one another, being fewer in,
number; but they are in the fame ftile of ar-
chite£ture, having been built in the reign of
the fame king, who, by thefe ftrong fortreffes,

fe cured

APPENDIX. 363

fecured to himfelf and his pofterity the do-
minion of North Wales. The hall is ftill
pretty entire, and rivals that of Conway, ex-
cept that the roof doth not appear to have
been arched.

The towers are all in a ruinous ftate; I
think it a pity and fhame to the owner, that
more care is not taken, to preferve fuch re-
fpe&able remains of antiquity. When we left
the vale of Clwydd, we went into a barren
and mountainous country, which continued
from Rythin as far as Wrexham.

The church of the latter is called one of the
wonders of Wales; it does indeed equal, if .
not exceed, any in England. I have not de-
fcribed to you the cathedral of Bangor, or Sti
Afaph; the firft I did not fee, and I was told
it was not worth feeing; the latter hath no-
thing in it to deferve defcription: neverthelefs,
I fhould be glad to fee the Dean of E— -
well feated in either of them, or rather at
St. Afaph. From Wrexham we went to Wyn*
flay, the feat of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn.
Part of the houfe is old; but he had begun
building a new one before his death, in a very
good tafte. One wing is finifhed, and that
alone makes a very agreeable houfe. The view
from it is the moft cheerful I ever beheld; it
(lands in the middle of a very pretty park, and
E e 2 looks

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES,

looks over that to a mod delightful country}
but, if the park was extended a little farther,
it would take in a hill, with a view of a valley,
moft beautifully wooded; and the river Dee
winding in fo romantic and charming a man-
ner, that I think it exceeds that of Ffeftiniog,
or any confined profpeft J ever beheld. Among
other obje&s that embellifh the fcene, there is
a fine bridge of ftone. Tell Mrs. G - S - ,
I would have her leave Clermont, and the
banks of the Thames, and build a houfe in this
]ovely fpot. I will vifit her every year; fhe
will not be at any expence in making a garden,
for nature hath made one to her hands, infi-
nitely better than that of S-— - — . Upon one
of the neighbouring hills, which hath the fame
profpect as this, one Mr. Yorke has a feat,
which I only faw at a diftance; and which, I
am told by a lady at Shrewfbury, of good tafte,
excels any in Wales, for natural beauty.

Indeed the country, for five or fix miles, is of
another temper, exceedingly fertile, and very
romantic. While I was looking at it, I aiked
Mr. P— ; — , " Whether he thought it poffible
" for the eyes to behold a more pleafing fight ?M
He faid, " Yes; the fight of a woman one
" loves." My anfwer was, " When I was in
«< love, I thought fo."

Our

APPENDIX.

Our laft vifitin Wales was to Chirk Caftle;
it was de$rqyed in the civil wars, and hath
jbeen rebuilt:* it is a bad imitation of an old
caftle; the molt difagreeable dwelling-houfe I
ever faw; nor is there any magnificence to
make amends for the want of convenience; the
rooms are indeed large in one part, but much
too low 5 and the ceilings are fo heavy, with
clumfy fret-work, that they feem ready to fall
upon one's head. It has a fine extend ve prof-
pe6t, but no other beauty of any kind; nor is
ttye profpe£t to be compared with fome we
have feen, at the other caftles in Wales,

I am, &c.

* One fide and three towers were deraoliihed, but not
|he whole.

THE

$66 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

THE ANCIENT

WALES was originally divided into many
royalties, or lordfhips, which, though they of-
ten vary in number, were all of them in gene-
ral fubjett to a degree, during fome periods at
leaft, to one or the other of the three princi-
palities of Gwynedd, Powys, and Dehcubarth $
or North Wales, Powys, and South Wales.

The greateft diftrift of a determinate ex-
tent was the cantref, which was in moft re-
fpecls analogous to the Englim hundred. This
was in general divided into two civmvod, each
of which confifted of fifty tref, or townfhips.

The meafure of length confifted of the fol-
lowing gradations.

Three Barleycorns, 1 Inch.

Three Inches,. ... 1 Palm.

Three Palms, .... 1 Foot.

Three Feet, ....'. 1 Pace or Stride,

Three Paces, .... 1 Leap.

Three Leaps, .... 1 Ridge or Land.

AThoufand Lands, 1 Mile.

5 From

APPENDIX. 367

From this table it appears, that the ancient
\Velfli mile confifted of 3000 leaps or yards,
nearly a mile and three quarters of the pre-
fent meafure.

LAND MEASURE.

The ancient confutation of Wales thus ex-
plains the meafure of a lawful acre. Four
feet in length of the fliort yoke; eight in the
field yoke; twelve in the lateral yoke; fixteen
in the long yoke; and a rod equal in length
with that in the hand of the driver, with his
other hand upon the middle knob of that
yoke ; and as far as that reaches on each fide
of him is the breadth of an acre; and thirty
times that is it's length.

It is otherwife defined thus: fixteen feet
are in the length of the long yoke; fixteen
yokes make the length of an acre; and two*
make it's breadth.

In the mort yoke there were two oxen
a-breaft; in the next, four; in the next, fix;
and in the laft, eight. This method of yoking
was in ufe, in fome parts of the country, in-
the laft century.

Neither meadow, pafture, nor wood land
' were included in the acre; for only the ara-
ble ground was meafured, that of every other
defcription being deemed waits.

4 Erw

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

4 Erw or Acres, made 1 Tyddyn or Tenement*
4 TyddynorTenementSj 1 Rhandir or Diftrift.
4 Rhandir or Diftricls, . 1 Gafel or Bailiwick.
4 Gafel or Bailiwicks, . 1 Tref or Townfhip.
4 Tref or Townfhips, . 1 Maenol or Manor.
1 2 Maenol or Manors,& "| f 1 Cwmwd or Affocia-

2 Tref orTownfliips, J \ tion.
2 Cwmwd or Affocia-1 fl Cantref or Hundred

tions, . . ; . . . . .:. -J 1 Towns.

The prefent divifion of Wales, mto thirteen
counties, was firft fettled on the introduction
of the Englim laws into tne country. In
thefe, the ancient cantref and it's fubdivifions1
were preferved generally; but the bounds of
the principalities were, perhaps from political
reafons, overlooked.*

* This and the two following articles are taken from the
two firft volumes of the Cambrian Regifter^

A CA*

APPENDIX. 369*

A CATALOGUE

OF

THE CROMLECHS,

AND

OTHER DRUrblCAL 'REMAINS*^

IN THE

ISLAND OF ANGLESEA

No. farijt.

1. 2 at Plas Newydd, . Llan Edwen.

2. i at Bodowyr, Llanidau.

3. i at Trefor, Llanfadwrn.

4. 2 at Rhos Fawr,_ Llanfair Mathafarn.

5. i at Llugy, (juft by the

road,) Penrhos Llugwy.

6. i at Parkiau, near Fedw

ifaf, . Ditto.

7. 3 at Bodafon Mountain, . . Llanfihangel Trer-beirdd.

8. 3 at Boddeiniol, Llan Baleo.

9. i at Cromlech, . Llanfechell.

10. i at Henblas, Llan Grifliolis.

11. i at Tynewyddland Llaniaelog.

12. i partly demolifhed on

Mynydd y Cnwe, Ditto.

13. 3 fmall ones near Cryg-

hylJ river, Ditto.

F f 2 * 1;

370* A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

No. Parifi.

14. i near Tywyn Trewen, Llanfihangel yn Neubwl»

15. i near Llanallgo, . . — LlanaHgo.

16. i at Cremlyn, .Llandona.

17. I at MarianPant j Saer, Llanfair Mathafarm

18. i at Llech tal Mon, now

demolifhed, .. —

19. i at Myfyrian,. Llanidaru

20. i at Bodlew, . . ....

21. i at Rhos y Ceryg, — ~

42. An artificial mount at Bryn Celli, and a long ex-
tended cavern beneath it.

83. An artificial mount in the fkirts of Plas Newydd
Wood, commonly called Bryn yr hen Bobl :
fuppofed to have been a Druidical fepulchral
ground.'

Total 30.

A CATA-

APPENDIX. 369

» » • • ' i. ..... i i • i

A

CATALOGUE

PF THE

NATURAL AND FACTITIOUS PRODUCTIONS
OF ANGLESEA*

A. Parijk.

1 Alabafler, ........ Llangwyfan, ...,. ....... N.

2 Alum, ........... Amlwch, ............. _ F.

3 Afbellos, ......... Monachdy and Skerries, . .N.

4 Arfenic, ......... Amlwch, , ............ F.

B.
,5 Brimflone, ....... Ditto, .r — . , ....N.andF.

C.

6 Cimmolian Clay, _ - ................... „ . -N.

7 Fuller's Clay, white

and yellow, ...... Holyhead Mountain, ____ N.

8 Copper, ...... ( --- Amlwch, ......... N. and F.

9 Copperas, ........ Ditto, ........... N.andF.

10 Chert, China Stone,

Petro Silex, ...... Llan Badrig, ........... N.

j i Ditto, ........... Llandegfan&. Llan Griftiolis.N.

C Llanfihangel Yfgeifiog, ^
j 2. Coals, ........... J Llanffinan, ......... V N.

^Trefdraeth, ........ \

13 Culm, ........... Peny Crug, Llan Griltiolis,N.

* N. ftands for Natural ; F. for Factitious.
Vol.. ii. F f 14 Earths,

37O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

E . Parijh.

14 Earths, argillaceous

and filicious, Amlwch.

G.
i^ Grit Stone, Trefdraeth and Llanddwyn,

16 Grinding Stones, . . .Rhos Fawr.

17 Gypfum, Llanfair-ynghornwy, ,N,

H.

1 8 Hones Llanrhyddlad.

L.

19 Lead, — Dulas, Llanfihangel Ymhenrhos,. -N.

20 Lapis Tornatus, . Llanddyfuan, N.

21 Lime Stones throughout the ifland.

M.

22 Marble, black &grey,Moelfre, Llanallgo, &c.

23 Marie, white,grey,&c. Llanddyfuan and LlanfTruan,N.

24 Mill Stones, Rhos Fawr and Penmon.

O.

25Ochre,ParisMountain,N.&F.andLlanBadrig,&c.N.
P.

26 Paving Stones, .On the banks of the Menaj,

27 Porphyry, ... .Llanddwyn.

2-

28 Quartz, -. -Paris Mountain.

S.

29 Shale, ... Ditto and Llan Badrig.

30 Slates, Llanfflewyn.

31 Sulphur, vide Brim-

ftone, f

V.

32 Verdigreafe, Paris Mountain, N.andF.

33 Vitriol Ditto N.andF,

A CATA-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 571

CATALOGUE

OF THE

MORE UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS,

WITH

THEIR PLACES OF GROWTti.

•^grxaEigjfc-Ti

CLASS I.
MONANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.*

UALICORNUA ANNU A. Annual Samphire. — Eng. Bot.
Tab. 41,5.+ — S.herbacea. With. II. 4. — S. Europcca*
Hudf. I. A. Auguft, Sept.
Sea (hores, generally in a muddy foil, common.

* Where the places are not fully defcribed in the follow-
ing lift, reference may be made to the index, and from
thence to fome other part of the work.

t Books quoted: — Aitbn. Hortis Kevvenfis. Lohd. 1789.
8vo. 3 vol. — Bolu Bolton's felices Britannicas, &c. 410. —
Curtis. Flora Londinenfis. — ?.ng, Bot. Englifh Botany*
edited by Dr. Smith and Mr. Sowerby. — Gerard. Ge-
rard's Herbal, by Johnfon, 1736, folio. — Lightf. Light-
foot's Flora Scotica, 1777, 8vo. 2 vol. — Linn.Tr. Tranf-
aftions of the Linnasari Society. — Martjn, Flora Ruftica,
8vo. 4 vol. — Raj. J. Raii Synopfis Methedica, &c. Ed.
3, 1724, 8vo. — Stillittgjleet. Mifcellaneous Trails relating
to Natural Hiftory, &c. — With. Withering's Arrangement
of Britilh Plants. Ed. 3, 1796, 8vo. ±\d.—W<ud<v. Wcod-
ville's Medical Botany, 4 vol« 410. 1793.

F f 2 HIPPURU

372 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

HIPPURIS VULGARIS. Common Mares Tail. — With*
II. 5.— Curtis, 287.— P. May.

In a ditch, about a 100 yards north-weft of Rhyd Marfli,
near Preftatyn, five miles from Ryddlan, Flintfhire.

ZOSTERA MARINA. Sea Grajfwrack. — With. IL 496.
— Eng. Bot. 467. — P. June — Aug.

Salt water ditches on the coaft of Anglefea, frequent.

CIIARA TOMENTOSA. Brittle Stonewort. — With. IL
2. — A. June — O6L

On the peat bog, by the road fide, oppofite to Mifs
Green's houfe, at Alyn bank, near Mold, Flintfhire.

CIIARA FLEXILIS. Smooth Stonewort — With. II. .3.
—A. June— Oft.

3n a pool, called Llyn Aled, in the parifh of Llanfan-
nan, not far from Gwytherin, Denbighshire.

CLASS II.
DIANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

LIGUSTRUM VULGARE. Privet. — With. II. 10. —
Curtis, 300. — S. June, July.
Hedges in gravelly foils in Anglefea.

VERONICA SPICATA. Spiked Speedwell. — With. II.
12. — Eng. Bot. 2. — P. June, July.

Diferth Caftle Hill, near Rhyddlan,Flintftire.— Glod-
daeth, near Conwy; and on Penmaen Mawr, in Caer-
narvonfhire.

VERONICA

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 373

VERONICA HYBRIDA. Weljh Speedwell, — With. II.
12. — Eng. Bot. 673. — P. July.

On Craig Breiddin, a mountain about eight miles from
Welfh Pool in Montgomeryfhire.

VERONICA OFFICINALIS. Common Speedwell. — With.
II. 13. — Curtis, 198. — P. May — Aug.
Dry heathy ground in Caernarvonfture, not uncommon.

VERONICA SCUTELLATA. Narrow-leaved Speedwell.
— With. II. 16. — Curtis, 333. — P.June — Aug.
Swampy foil in Anglefea, not uncommon.

VERONICA MONTANA. Mountain Speedwell. — With.
II. 16. — Curtis, 220. — P.May, June.-
Upper Wood, at Tower, rear Mold, Flintmire. — Near
the rivulet in Garn Dingle, three miles from Denbigh. •

PiNGUiCULA VULGARIS. Common Bitttcrwort. —
With. II. 18.— Eng. Bot. 70.— P. May, June.
Bogs on the moors of Caernarvonfhire, plentifully.

UTRICULARIA VULGARIS. Greater Hooded-Milfoil. —
With. II. 19. — Eng. Bot. 2,53. — P. July.
Ditches and turbaries in Anglefea, not uncommon.

SALVFA PRATENSIS. Meadow C/£ry.— With. II. ai.
Eng. Bot. 153. — P. June, July.

Meadows near Llanidan, on the fouth-eaft coaft of An-
glefca, not far from Moel y Don Ferry.

SALVIA VERBENACA. Wild Clary. — With. II. 21.

Eng. Bot. 154.— P. June— Aug.
Ryddlan church-yard, Flintfhire.

CLASS

374 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CLASS III.
TRIANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

VALERIANA RUBIA. Red Valerian.— Vf\ti\. II. 65.
— Ger. 678, i.— P. May— Aug.
Near Llanidan church, Anglefea.

IRIS FCETIDISSIMA. Stinking Iris. — Eng. Bot. 596.—
/. Farida. With. II. 70.— P. June, July.

In plenty near the fquare tower on the ifland of Prie'.t-
holme, near Beaumaris.

NARDUS STRICTA. Small Matweed. — With. II. 71. — •
Eng. Bot. 290. — P. June — Aug.
Heaths and moors, common.

ERIOPHORUM VAGINATUM. Single- headed Cotton
Grafs —With. II. 71.— Curtis, 219.— P. Feb.—
April.

Turbaries, near Llyn Idwel, Caernarvonfhire; — and
Llyn Aled, in the parifh of Llanfannan, Denbighfhire.

ERIOPHORUM POLYSTACHION. Broad-leaved Cotton
Grafs. — With. II. 72. — Eng. Bot. 563. — P. May,
June.

In the fame places as E. Vaginatam, but not fo common.

^ERIOPHORUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM. Many-headed Cot-
ton Grafs. — With. II. 72. — Eng. Bot. 564. — P.
June.

JJogs among the mountains of Caernarvonfhire, very
common.

SciRPUS

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 375

SCIRPUS C,£SPiTOSUS. Dwarf Club-grafs. — \Vith. II.
73.— P. June.

Turf bogs in Cwm Brwynog, near Llanberis, Caernar-
vonfiiire.

.SCJRPUS MARITIMUS. Salt -mar jJiClub-grafs. — With.
' II. 77. — Eng. Bot. ,542. — P. Aug.

Saltncy Marfh., near Chefter; — and Rhyd Marfh, Flint-
ftiire.

CYPERUS NIGRICANS. Round black- headed RuJJi-
grafs.— With. II. 78.— P. June.

Bogs in Cwm Brwynog.

SCH/ENUS COMPRESSUS. CompreJJ'ed Rujh- grafs.—
With. II. 80.— P. July.

Marfh, a mile weft of Preftatyn, on the fea-coaft of Flint-
(hire, about five miles N. E. of Rhyddlan.

SCHJENUS ALBUS. White-flowered Ru/li-grafs. — With.
II. 81.— P. July— Sept.

£n the bog, weft of Dolbadarn Caftle, near Llanberis.

TRIANDRIA.— DIGYNIA.

PHALARIS ARENARIA. Sea Timothy -grafs. — With.
II. 113. — Eng. Bot. 222. — A. July, Aug.
Newborough Sands, Anglefea.

ALOPECURUS GENICULATUS. — With. II. 130. — P.
May, June.
Wet places about Garn, near Denbigh, very common.

A CA-

376' A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CALAMAGROSTIS AuENARiA. See Mat-weed. — With.
II. 123. — Arundo Arenana. Linn. — P. June, July.

Sand banks on the fea (bore about Rhil Marfh, neat
Rhyddlan, Flintfhire. Near Orme's Head, Caernar-
vonfliire, and not far from Towyn, Merionethfhire.

CALAMAGROSTIS VARIEGATA. — Variety, 2.— -With.
IJ. 124.— P.July.

Bank of the rivulet that runs by Dolbadarn Caftle,
into the Lake in the vale of Llanberis.

MILUIM LENDIGERUM. Panick Millet. — With. II.
\iz.-Alop. Vtntricofus. Huds. 28. — A. July,
Aug.

Paftures eaft of Merllin Farm-houfe, in the parifh of
Lanyfydd, Denbighfhire.

AIRA FLEXUOSA. Heath Hair-Grafs. — With. II.
1 36.— P. June — Aug.

Crib y Ddcfcil, a high rock near Llanberis.

AiRA PRCECOX. Early Hair-Grafs. — With. II. 137.
Pi May,

Lime rocks near Henllan, a village three miles N. W.
of Denbigh.

MEI.ICA NUTANS. Mountain Mtlic. — With. II.
138. — M. Montana. — Huds. 37, — P. June, July.

Garn Dingle, Denbighlhire.

MEI.ICA C.£RULEA. Purple. Melic. — With. II. 139.
Ana carulea. Huds. 33. — P. June, July.

Turfy heaths near Llyn Idwel, Caernarvonfliire. On
Fary's mountain, in places fo near the copper works,
that no other plant will thrive.

MELICA

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 377

MELICA UNIFLORA. Wood Mtlic. — With. II. 139.
Melica Nutans. — Hucls, 37. — P. May — July.

Lower rocks of Garfegwch, near Garn, four miles from
Denbigh.

POA ALPINA. With, II. 142. — Variety 2. viripa-
rous. — P. June, July.

Oh Snowdon.

POA CRISTATA. Crejted Meadow-Grafs.- — With. II.
M5-— Jul7-
Barren paftures near Henllan, Denbighfture.

POA RIGIDA. Hard Meadow-Grafs. — With. II. 146^
Curtis, 142. — A. June — Aug.

Lime rocks near Henllan.

POA MARITIMA. Sea Meadow-Grafs. — With. .II.
147. — P. June — Aug;

On part of the Marfti, a mile weft of Preftatyn, Flint-
ihire, that is overflowed by the fea, at fpring tides.

POA GLAUGA. With. II. 148. — P\ Alpina, (Variety,
0.) Huds. 39.— P. June, July.
High mountains of Crib y Ddefcil, near Llanberis,
arid Clogwyn y Garnedd, one fide of Snowdon.

FESTUCA BROMOIDES. Barren Fefcue. — ^With; II*
15 i. — A. May, June.
Denbigh Caftle.

FESTUCA OVINA. Sheep's Fefcue. — With II. 1,52. —
Erig; Bot. ^S^i — Variety, 2. (Viviparous}. — P.
June, July.

On the higher mountains of Caernarvonfhire, common.
G g FESTUCA

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

F ESTUCA RUBRA. Purple Fefcue — With. II. i,53r— »
StillingrTeet, 9.

Rocks on the fouth weft iide of she hollow, called
Cwm Idwel, near Llanberis.

FESTUCA CAMBRICA. Wdjli Fefcue. — With. II. ig6.
P. July, Aug.

On Crib y Ddefcil, and the higheft mountains about
Llanberis, plentifully.

FESTUCA TENUIFOLIA. — With. II. 1.5,5.. — P- June-
On Crib y Ddefcil,

A VENA PUBESCENS. Rough Oat. — With. II. i-f)^.— *
P. June.
Hedges about Garn, near Denbigh, very common.

ROTTBOLLIA iNCURVATAr &a Hard-Grafs. — With,
II- 169. — P. July, Aug.

Rhil Marfh, near Rhyddhn, Flintfliire; but fcldcrn
obfervable on account of the fheep browiing fo cJofe :
it may however be readily detected, on the turf banks,
in front of the cottages, near the Scone houfe, which
are formed of fods, that have been taken from the
Marfli. MX. GRIFFITH.

ELYMUS ARENARIUS. See Lime-Grafs. — With. IL
170.— P. July, Aug.
Sandy fea coaft, near the Orme's Head, Caernarvonshire,

s

TRIANDRIA.— TRIGYNIA.

MONTIA FONTANA. Water Blinks.— With. II.
- 175.— Curtis, 1 88.— A. May— July.

In fwampy ground on the right of the road, between-.
Ifcddgekrt, and Tan y Bwlch, in Merionethfliire,

CLASS.

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. ,379

CLASS IV.
TETRANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

DIPSACUS PILOSUS. Small TeafeL— With. II. 182. —
Curtis. — P. Aug.

About 3^ miles from Newtown, on the left of the road
from rhence ro Montgomery. Near the Forge, be-
twixt Welfh Pool, and Ofweftry,

CENTUNCULUS MINIMUS. &ajlard PemperneU —
With. II. 198.— Eng. Bot. 531. — A. June, July.

Pvloift ground about a mile from Lhnrwft, near 250
yards beyond a fmall dingle called Nant Bwlch yr
hiarn, and within 3 or 4 jards of the turnpike road,
Jeading to Coriwy,

FLANTAGO MARITIMA. Sea Plantain. — With. II.
197. — Eng. Bot. 17,5. — P. June, July.

Sea coaft, .common. — Near Caergwrle Caftle, Flinrihire.
— Amongft the rocks near Tull DU, above Llyn
Idwel, Caernarvonmire. — By the road fide from
Bangor to Holyhead, about two miles from Gwyndy.

PLANTACO CORONOPUS. Buck's-horn Plantain. —
With. II. 198.— Ger. 427, i.— A. June—Aug.

Sea ftiore not unfrequent.

KUBIA PEREGINA. Wild Madder.— Hudfon, €5.
R. Tinftorum. — With. II. 193 — P. June, July.
Hedges at Gloddaeth, near Conwy, Caernarvonlhire,

GALIUM PROCUMBENS. Trailing Goofe-Grafs. —
With. II. 187.— G. Montanum.—HuAs. 67.— P.

Moors, common.

G g a GALUIM

380 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

GAI.UIM BOREALE. Crofs-leaved Goofe-Grafs.—?
With. II. 192. — Eng. Bot. 105.
On the rocks near Tull Du, above Llyn Idwel. — About
half a'mile from Llanberis, in the gravel by the fide
of the fecond rivulet, in the way to Llanrwft.

ASPERULA ODORATA. Sweet Woodroof, — With. II.
185. — Curtis. 249. — P. May.

Amongft the bufhes on the banks of the Seiont, neat
Caernarvon Caftle.

TETRANDRIA.— TETRAGYNIA.

POTAMOGETCN GRAMINEUM. Grafs -leaved Pond
JT<r«/.— With. II. 214.— P. July.

Rhil Marfh, near Rhyddlan, and ditches about that
place.

RUPPIA MARITIMA. Ta/el Pond Weed.— With. II.
215.— Eng. Bot. 136. — A. LINN. — P. HUBS. —
July, Aug.

Salt water ditches near Llanddwyn, about two miles
from Newborough, Anglefea. — Between Traeth
Mawr, and Pont Aber Glafllyn, near Beddgelert.

CLASS V.
PENTANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

LITHOSPERMUM PuRPURO - CvERULEUM. Creeping
Cromwell. — With. II. 126. — Eng. Bot. 117. — P,
Apr. May.

On the top of a buftiy hill, oa the north fide of the town
of Denbigh.

ANCHTJSA

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 381

ANCHUSA SEMPERVIRENS. Evergreen Alkanet. — With.
II. 227. — Eng. Bot. 4,5. — P. May — July.
Amongft the rains of Bafingwerk Abbey, near Holywell,
FHntfhire, miftaken by Mr. Waring in With II. 228.
for Pulmonaria Angztftifolia.

PULMONARIAMARITIMA. Sea Lungwort. — With. II.
229. — Eng. Bot. 368.— P. July.
Amongft the fand on the fea coaft, at Ornie's Head,
near Comvy. — Near Trefarthen, in Anglefea, about
half-way betwixt the Terry from Caernarvon and
Moel y Don. — By the river Llyfni, that runs from
Llyniau Nantlle into the fea, about half-way betwixt
Llandwrog and Clynog Vawr, in Caernarvonfhire.

SYMPHYTUM OFFICINALE. Common Comfrey. — With.
II. 230. — Curtis, 230. — P. May.
On the banks of the river Alyn, near Roflet Green, about
half a mile eaft of the road leading from Chefter to
Wrexham.

BORAGO OFFICINALIS. Common Borage. — With. II.
231. — Eng. Bot. 36. — P. June — Aug.
On the fummit of the high rock at Llandidno, near Con-
wy. — Amongft the rubbifh on Harlech Marfti, juft be-
low the caftle.

HOTTONIA PALUSTRIS. Water Violet. — With. II,
236. — Eng. Bot. 364. — P. June, July.
Ditches by the road fide, midway between Pool Quay
and the turnpike leading to Welfti Pool, Montgomeryr
fliire.

J/YSIMACHIA VULGAR is. Yellow Loofe-ftrife. — With.
?!• 357-— Curtis, 288. — P. June, July. '
Sides of ponds in Anglefea and CaernarvonfhiK, not very

uncommon.

LY-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

LYSIMACHIA THYRSI tt.OR A. Tufted LooJe-JlnJc. — i
With. II. 357. — Eng. Bot. 136. — P. June.
Said to have been found at Llyn-llechykhed, but I nercr
could meet with it. REV, HUGH DAVIES.

ANAGALLIS TENELLA. Beg Pimpernel.— With. II.
239.— Eng. Bot. 530.— P. July, Aug.
Wet meadows near Caernarvon, not unfrequent.

CONVOLVULUS SOLDANELLA. Sea Bindweed. — With,
II. 240. — Eng. Bot. 314. — P. July.

Sandy Tea coafts of the fouth-weft of Caernarvonftiire and
Anglefea, not uncommon,

CAMPANULA ROTUNDIFOLIA. Round -leaved Bell
Flower. (Variety 2.) — With. II. 241. — P. July —

oa.

Mountains about Llanberis and Snowdon, plentifully.

CAMPANULA CATIFOLIA. £riant TAroatzvort.—rWith,
II. 243 — Eng. Bot. 302.—?. July, Aug.
Hedges tear Holywell, Flintshire.

CAMPANULATRACHELIUM. Canterbury Bells. — With.
II. 243. — Eng. Bot. 12. — P. July, Aug.

Thickets near Bafingwerk Abbey .—Near the road lead-
ing from St. Afaph to Denbigh.

CAMPANULA GLOMERATA. Cluftered Bell Flower. — •
With. II. 244. — Eng. Bot. 90. — P. July.

Calcareous paftures near Rhyd y Cilwyn, between Den-
bigh and Ruthin, about two miles from Ruthin.

CAMPANULA HEDERACEA. Ivy-leaved Bell Flower. —
With. II. 245.— Eng. Bot. 73. — P. May — Aug.

Moift

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS.

Moift meadows in the vale of Llanberis, about 5 of a
mile beyond the village. — Road fides near Llanrwft.— •
Near the cataract, called Rhardr y Wenol, 5 miles
from Llanrwft.

LOBELIA DORTMANNA, Water Gladiole. — With.1I,
245. — Eng. Bot. 140. — P. July, Aug.
In Llyn j Cwn, Ffynnon Freeh, and Llyn Idwel, near
Llanheris, and moft of the other pools in elevated foli-
ations,

SAMOLUS VALERANDI. Pimpernell Broofaoeed. _
With. II. 246. — Curtis, 268. — P. June, July.
In the marfh, near Caernarvon Caftle.

JESIONE MONTANA. Hairy Sheep's Scabious. — With.
II. 247. — Curtis, 245. — A. June, Juty,

Dry parched fituations about Denbigh, and many other
places j — a plant by no means uncommon,

VERBASCUM LYCHNITIS. Hoary Mullein. — With. II.
249.— Eng. Bot. 58.— July.

Between Gresford and Little Aclon, near Wrexham;
about a mile from the latter place, abundantly,

ATROPA BELLADONNA. Deadly Nightfltade. — Withv
II. 2,52. — Eng. Bot. 592. — P. June — Aug.

About Valle Crucis Abbey, near Llangollen, Denbigh-
ftiire ; — and by the road fide, between liawarden ar»d
Chefter.

RHAMNUS CATHARTICUS. Purging Buckthorn. — «-
With. II. 256.— Ger. 1137. i. — S. ApriJ, May.
Garreg Wen rocks, near Gam, Denbighfhire.

EVONYMUS EUROP^EUS. Common Spindle Trec>—>-
With. II. 259. — Eng. Bot. 362. — S. May, June.

In the copfe by Euloe Caftle, near Ha-wardsn, Flintfhire.

VIOLA

384, A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

VIOLA PALUSTRIS. Mar/h Violet, — With. II. 261.— -
Eng. Bot. 444. — P. April, May.
Bogs near Llyn A led, Denbighfhire.

VIOLA LUTEA. Yellow Violet. — With. II. 263.-—
V. Grandiflora. Hudf. 380.— P. May— Sept.
By the road fide, betwixt Llanrwft and Ffeftiniog, near
the bridge, about a mile from Penmachno; — and from
the tenth mile ftone, on_the road from Machynlleth to
Llanydloes, plentifully nearly all the way to the latter
place.

IMPATIENS NOLI-TANGERE. Touch-me-not. — With.
II. 263. — Ger. 446. 4.

On the banks of the river Camlet, at Marrington, in tne
parifti ef Cherbury, about five miles from Montgomery.

RISES GROSSULARIA. Rough Goofeberry. — With. II.
266. — S. April.
Rough places about Denbigh Caftle^

RISES UvA-CRiSPA* Smooth Goofeberry. — With. II.
266. — Ger. 1324. — S. April, May.
About Denbigh Caftle, along with the former; — and in
the hedges, by the road fide, betwixt Caernarvon and
Bangor.

Gi.Atfx MARITIMA. Sea Milkwort.—'Wi\h.< II. 268.
Eng. Bot. 13. — P. June, July.

Salt marines near Conwy ; and Dulas Bay, net far froin

Amlwch, Anglefea.

VINCA MINOR. Le/fer Periwinkle. — With. II. 268.
Curtis, 172.-^-?. May.

Road fides, near Pig y Fran, in the parilh of St. Afaph.

PEN-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 385

PENTANDRIA.— DJGYNIA.

CHENOPODIUM MARITIMUM. Sea Goofcfoot. — With.
II. 273. — Eng. Hot. 633.— A. Aug.
Sea ccgjft, near Llanfaglan church, about two miles S. W.
of Caernarvon.

BETA MARATIMA. Sea Beet. — With. II. 277.— Eng.
Bot. 28,5.—?. July— Sept.
On the fouth-weft coaft of Anglefea.

SALSOLA KALI. Prickly Glaffwort* — With. II. 278.
— Eng. Bot. 634. — A. July, Aug.
1 Amongft the fand on the coaft of Anglefea, between the
ferry from Caernarvon and Moel y Don.

GENTIANAPNEUMONANTHE. CalatlrianVioht. — With.
II. 280. — Eng. Bot. 20. — P. Auguft.
Jn oioift uncultivated grounds, Anglefea.

GENTTIANA AMARELLA. Autumnal Gentian. — With.
II. 281. — Eng. Bot. 236. — A. Aug. Sept.

Dry ground between HoJywell and Rhyddlan. — Bank
fides near Denbigh.

GENTIANA OAMPESTRI.S. Field Gentian. — With. II.
281. — Eng. Bot. 237.— A. Aug. — Oft.
About three miles from Holy well, by the road fide, lead-
ing from thence to Rhyddlan, along with the laft fpe-
cies. — Near Llanberis.

ERYNGIUM MARITIMUM. Sea Holly. — With. II.
.83.— P. July, Aug.
Sea coaft, among the fand near Harlech, Ms:i:wthfhire.

VOL. n. H h CRITH-

386 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CRITHMUM MARITIMUM. Rock Samphire. — With.
II. 295.— Ger. 533. i.— P. Aug.

Rocks on the fea coaft, between Clynog Vawr and Ne-
vin, Caernarvonftrire; — and on the coaft of Anglefea,
not uncommon.

SUIM ANGUSTIFOLIUM. Upright Water Parfnep. —
With. II. 299. — Eng. Bot. 139. — P. July — Sept.
By the fides of rivulets in Anglefea.

SISON INUNDATUM. Water Stonewort. — With. II.
301.— Eng. Boi. 227. — B. June.
Very common in rivulets in Anglefea.

OENANTHE CROCATA. Hemlock Dropwort. — With*
II. 302. — Woodv. 267. — P. June, July.

In Garn Dingle, and watery places in the neighbour-
hood, too common.

OENANTHE PIMPINELLORDES. Par/ley Dropwort. —
With. II. 302. — Eng. Bot. 347. — P. July, Aug.

Sah-marmes near Aber, Caernarvonftiire.

PHELLANDRUMA^UATICUM. Water Hemlock. — With.
II. 303 — Woodv. 266. — B. June, July.
Wet meadows below Pentre Hobbia, near Mold.

MEUM. Common SpigneL — With. II. 30,5.

— Ger. 1052. i. — P.May.
Mountainous paftures near Dolgelle.

SCANDIX ODORATA. Sweet Cicily. — With. II. 306.

— Ger. 1039. 3. — A. June.

Amongft the ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey, near Llan-
gollen.

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 387

SCANDIX CEREFOLIUM. Common Chervil. — With. II.
307. — Ger. 1038. i. — A. May.
On theeaft fide of Denbigh Caftle.

SMYRNIUM OLUSATRUM. Alexanders. — With. II,
310. — Eng. Bot. 230. — B. May, June.

On Prieftholme Ifland, near Beaumaris,

ANETHUM FCENICULUM. Common Fennel. — With. II.
310. — Woodv. 160.— B. July, Aug.

In Rhyddlan church -yard.

APIUM GLAVEOLENS. Smallage. — With. II. 314. — •
B. Aug.

Sides of ditches in Anglefea.

PENTANDRIA.— TRYGYNIA.

SAMBUCUS EBULUS. Dwarf Elder. — With. II. 316,
Eng. Bot. 475.— S. July.

Near Llanfaelog, about 5 miles N. W. of Aberffraw, in
Anglefea.— In a hedge on the coaft, near the houfes at
Moel y Don Ferry. — Hedge near Harlech Caltle.

PENTANDRIA.— TETRAGYNIA.

PARNASSIA PALUSTRIS. Grafs of Parnajfus. — With,
II. 319. — Eng. Bot. 82. — P. Aug.

Moift rocks nearTull Du. above Liyn Idwel.

\

PENTANDRIA.— PENTAGYNIA.

STATICE ARMERIA. Common Thrift. — With. It. 319.
— Eng. Bot. 226. — P. May — July.

H h,» Ir.

388 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the mar(h near Caernarvon Cattle. — Sea coaft at Hu-
las Bay, Anglefea.-— Rocks near Tull Du, and on
Sncwdon.

STATICE LIMONIUM. Lavender Thrift. — With. H.
320. — Eng. Bot. 102. — P. July — Sept.
Sea coaft, in a marfhy foil at Dulas Bay, Anglefea.

LINUM USITATIS.IIMUM. Cojnmon Flax.— With. II.
321. — Curtis, 326. — A.July.

On the left of the road betwixt Newrown and Montgo-
mery, about a mile and a half from the latter place.

£)ROSERA ROTUNDIFOLIA. Round-leaved Sundew. —
With. II. 323.— Ger. 1556. i. — P. July, Aug.

Mofiy bogs among the mountains of Caernarvonfhirc,
plcnii fully.

DROSER A LONGIFOLIA. Long-leaved Sundew. — With.
II. 324. — Ger. 1,5,56. 2. — P. July, Aug.
Bogs near Eeddgelert, Caernarvonmire.

CLASS VI.
HEXANDRIA.— MONOOYNIA.

ALLIUM VINEALE. Crow Garlic. — With. II. 333. —
Ger. 179. i.— P. June.

Rocks in Anglefea and Caernarvonfhire.

ORNITHOGALUM UMBELI.ATUM. Common S'ar of
Bethlehem. — With. II 337. — Eng. Bot. 130.— P.
April, May.

Maes y Perth woods, near Nevvborough, Anglefen.

/i ScillAj

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 389

SCILLA VERNA. Vernal Squill. — With. II. 338. —
Eng. Bot. 23. — P. May, June.

Cliffs on the coaft of Anglefea. — Meadows about Glo-
ddaeth, near Conwy.

ANTHERICUM SEROTINUM. Mountain Saffron. —
With II. 339. — Ray, 17. i. — P. June.

On the high rock, calJed Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, be-
tween Llanberis and the fumrait of Snowdon; — and
on the moft inacceffible rocks abltve Llyn Idwel, very
near Tull Da, in abundance.

NARTJHECIUM OSSIFRAGUM. Lancajhire

With. II. 340.— Eng. Bot. 535.— P. July, Aug.

Turfy bogs, on the mountains between Caernarvon and
Llanberis, plentifully.

ASPARAGUS OFFICINALIS. Common Afparagus. —
With. II. 340. — Eng. Bot. 339. — P. July.

Sandy banks, by the fea fide, between Llangwyfen and
Uanfaelog, near Aberffraw, Anglefea. — Near the pool
at Llanfaelog.

CONVALLARIA MAJALIS. Lily of the Valley. — With.
II. 341. — Curtis, 302. — P. May.
On the north-weft fide of Garreg Wen rocks, near Cam.

JUNCUS ACUTUS. Sea Hard Rujh. — With. II. 346. —
P. July, Aug.

Sandy coaft near Harlech, Merionethflure.

JUNCUS TRIGLUMIS. Three-flowered Rujti. — With.
II. 349.— Lightf. 9. 2. — P. June— Aug.

In

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the afcent from Llanberis to Glyder, only in one fmall
fpot, that lies between a fmall eminence, called Bryn
bras, and a rivulet, called Avon las.

JUNCUS MAXIMUS. Wood Rujli. — With. II. 349.—
Curtis, 344. — P, May, June.
Woods in Caernarvonshire and Anglefea, frequent.

HEXANDRIA.— TRIGYNIA.

RUMEX MARITIMUS. — With. II. 256.— Curtis, 163. —
P. July— Sept.

On Rhyd Marfh, near Preftatyn, Flintflrire, in the
greateft abundance.

RUMEX DIGYNUS. IVelJh Sorrel. — With. II. 357. —
P. May — July.

In Tull Du, above Llyn Idwel ; — and on the rock that
forms one fide of Snowdon, called Clogwyn y Gar-
nedd, plentifully.

TRIGLOCHIN MARITIMUM. SeaArrow-grafs. — With.
II. 359. — Eng. Bot. 255. — P. May — Aug.
Salt marfli near Caernarvon Caftle,

HEXANDRIA.— POLYGYNIA.

ALISMA NATANS. Creeping Thrumwort. — With. II.
362.— P. July.

In a fmall rivulet, on the weft fide of the lower lake
at Llanberis, about \ a mile from Dolbadarn Caftle.—
South cnd.of Bala Lake, Mericmethihire.

ALISMA

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. °C)t

ALISMAR.ANUNCULOIDES. Lrfler Thrumwort. — With.
II. 362. — Eng. Bot. 326. — P. June — Sept.
Rhyd Marfh, near Preftatyn, Flintftiire.

CLASS VII.

OCTANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

EPILOBIUM ANGUSTIFOLIUM. RofebayWillow-hcrl.
With. II. 366. — Curtis, 106. — P. June — Aug.

On Creigiau Hysfa Bengara, high rocks between Llan-
beris and Cwm Idwel.

CHLORA PERFOLEATA. Perforated Yellow-wort. —
With. II. 369.— Eng. Bot. 60. — A. June — Sept.

On the fide of the hill, by the road leading from Wens-
fred's well, at Holywell, dowa to the coaft.

VACCINIUM MYRTILLIS. Bilberries. — With. II. 370.
Eng. Bot. 456. — S. April, May.

Heaths of Caernarvon(hire, plentifully.

VACCINIUM ULIGINOSUM. Great Bi Merries. -rWith.
II. 370. — Eng. Bot. 581. — S. April, May.

Moid high woods about Gwydir, near Llanrwft.

VACCINIUM VITIS-ID^EA. RedlVortle-berries. — With.
II. 371. — Eng. Bot. ,598. — S. March, April.

Mountains of Caernarvonfhire, not uncommon; — and on
Cader Idris, in Merionethfhire.

VACCINIUM OXYCOCCOS. Cranberries. — With. II.
372.— Eng. Bot. 319. — S. May, June.

Pcatv

392 A TOUR ROUND NORTH \VALES.

Peaty bogs amongft the mountains of Caernarvonfhire,
not uncommon.

ERICA TETRALIX. Crofs -leaved Heath. — With. II.
373. — Curtis. — S. July.
On the heaths every where.

ERICA CINERIA. Fine-leaved Heath. — With. II. 374.
— Curtis, 297. — S. June — Auguft.

On the moors abundantly.

DAPHNE LAUREDLA. Spurge Laurel. — With. II. 377.
— Eng. Bot. 119. — S. March, April.

Woods and hedges.— In Park Pierce; — and in theCreft,
near Denbigh.

DAPHNE CNEORUM. Trailing Daphne. — Aiton. II,
a6. — S. April — Sept.

Said to have been found by Mr. Meyrick, a furgeon, who
lives near Birmingham, about two miles from Beddge-
lerr, by the road fide leading to Caernarvon, juft at
the place where the afccnt to the fumrait of Snowdon
begins. — When I was at Beddgelert, I fought for it
feveral times, but in vain ; nor have I heard of any other
perfon's having found it, except this gentleman. W. B.

OCTANDRIA.— TRYGYNIA.

POLYGONUM BISTORTA. Great Makeweed. — With. II,
382. — Eng. Bot. 509. — P. May, June.
Moid meadow in the front of PJSs-on in the parifh of
Mold.

POLYGONUM VIVIPARUM. Alpine Biftort. — With. II.
282. — Eng. Bot. 669.

On Crib Coch, above Ffynnon Trech, near Llanberis.

POLY-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 393

POLYGONUM FAGOPYRUM. Buck Whmt. — With. IL
384. — Martyn, 46. — A. July, Aug.

By the road fide, between Ruthin and Llangollen, though
probably from feed fcattered from fome field in which
it was cultivated. — There are many fields of it about
Llanymynech, betwixt Wellh Pool and Ofweftry.

OCTANDRIA.— TETRAGYUIA.

PARIS QUADRI FOLIA. Herb Paris. — With. II. 385. —
Eng. Bot. 7. — P. May, June.

On the north weft of Garreg Wen rocks, and on the op-
pofite fide cf the rivulet.

ADOXA MOSCHATELLINA. Tuberous Mofchatel. —
With. II. 386.— Eng. Bot. 453.— P. April, May.
Hedges about Garn, near Denbigh, common. — Under
large fragments of the rocks aboA'e Llyn Idwel, f a
mile above the pool, exceedingly luxuriant.

CLASS VIII.
ENNEANDRIA.-— HEXAGYNIA.

BUTOMUS UMBELLATUS. Flowering RuJJi, — With.
H. -393.— E»g. Bot. 651,— P. June, July.
Rivulets in Anglefea, not uncommon.

CLASS IX.
DECANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

ANDROMEDA POLIFOLIA. Wild Rcfemary. — With.
II. 398. — S. June.

VOL. ii. I i On

394 A TOUR ROUND NORTH 'WALES.

On a large moraffy flat, called Gorsy Gafleg, (orMare's
Bog,) about a mile N. E. of Llyn Aled ; — and in ano-
ther morafs, about the fame diftance weflr of the pooL

DECANDRIA.— DIGYNIA.

CHRYSOSPLLNIUM ALTERNIFOLIUM. — Alternate-
leaved Golden SaxifrAge. — With. II. 401. — Eng.
Bot. ,54. — P. March, April.

Moift places in. the upper wood at Tower, near Mold.

CiiRYSOSPLENiUM OpPOSiTiFOLiUM. Oppofite-leaved
Golden Saxifrage. — With. II. 402. — Eng. Bot. 490.
— P. April, May.

Sides of boggy rivulets amongft the mountains of Caer-
narvoufhire, common.

SAXIFRAGA STELLAR:?. Hairy Saxifrage. — With,
II. 402. — Eng. Bog. 167. — P. June, July.

Amongft the moid rocks about Llyn y Cwm, near Llan-
beris; — and in aimed ^11 other wet alpine fituations in
Caernarvonfhire. — On Cader Idris,in Merionethfhire.

SAXIFRAGA NIVALIS. Mountain Saxifrage. — With.
II. 403. — Eng. Bot. 440. — P. end of Apr. to Oft.
Rocks about Tuli Du, above Llyn Idwel. — Near the
fummit ef Glyder Vawr; — and OB the higher parts of
Clogwyn y Garnedd.

SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA. Heath-like Saxifrage. —
With. II. 404.. — Eng. Bot. 9. — P. April — 'June.

Rocks about Tull Du On Glogwyn y Garnedd, near

Snowdon; — and Craig y Cal, Cader Idris.

SAXIFRAGA GRANULATA. White Saxifrage. — With.
II. 405.— Eng. Bot. 500.— P. Apr. May.

Dry

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS,
i

Dry places in Garn Dingle, by the rivulet at the bottom

of the Glade.

SAXIFRAGA TRIDACTYLITES. Rue-leaved Saxifrage.
— With. II. 406. — Eng. Bor. ,501. — A. April,
May.
Walls of Conwy, Church-yard.

SAXIFRAGA HYPXOIDES. Mofs Saxifrage. — With.
II. 407. — Eng. Bot. 454. — P. May- — July.
Alpine fituations about Snowdon, Tull Du, &c.

SAXIFRAGA PALM ATA. Palmate Saxifrage. — Eng.
Bot. 455.— S. Pctraa—With. ILL 890.— P. April
—June.

Rocks of Cwn Idwel, above Llyn Idwel, near Tull Du.

SCELERANTHUS PERENNis. Perennial KnazvelL —
With. II. 407.— Eng. Bot. 352. — P. July, Aug.
Sandy places by the road fide, betwixt Corwen, and
Bala, Merionethfhire.

SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS. Common Soapzvorf.—*
With, II. 408.— Curtis.— P. July, Aug.
Amongft the ruins of Bafingvverk Abbey, Flimfhire.
Hedges in the lane between Llanrhaiadr, and the
celebrated Cataraft, called i'iftyll Rhaiadr, in Mont-
gomery (hire.

DECANDR1A.— TRIGYNIA.

CUCUBALUS BACCIFERUS. Berry -bearing Chuckweed.
— With. II. 411. — Ger. 614, 13. — A. July.

Found in the fummer of 1798, by the Rev. E. Lloyd,
in a Hedge near Llanidan, Anglcfea ; but the year
following he fought for it in vain :--it's being an annual,
may account for this.

I i a SiLENE

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

SILEXE ANGLICA. Englifli Catch-Fly. — With. II.
413. — Curtis, 266. — A June, July.

In a cornfield near the coaft, not far from Llanfaglan
Church, three miles S. W. of Caernarvon.

SILENE NUTANS. Nottingham Catch-Fly, — With.
II. 413. — Eng. Bot. 465. — P. June, July.

Near Gloddaeth, Caernarvonfhire. — Rocks above the
mine works at Dalea Gqch, Flimfhire.

SILENK MARITIMA. Sea Catchjly. — With. II. 415.—
P. Apr. — Aug.

Sea coaft near Llanfaglan Church. — Along the fide of
Llyn Cwellyn, betwixt Caernarvon, and Llanberis, in
Plenty. — Amongft the high rocks of Clogwyn Du'r
Aiddu, near Llanberis.

ARMERIA. Common Catchjly. — With. II.
.— A. July, Aug.

Sea rocks of Caernarvonfhire, and Angiefea, not u,a-
common.

SILENE ACAULIS. Mofs Catchjly. — With. II. 417. —
Lightf. 12. i.— P. May, June.
High rocks of Caernarvonfhire, not uncommon.

STELLARIA NEMORUM. Broad-leaved Slitchwort. —
With. II. 417. — Eng. Bot. 92. — P. June.

In a hedge on the eaft fide of, and clofe to the river,
Ciwyd, about 100 yards above the Ford, at Rhyd y
ddan Dwr, betwixt St. Afaph, and Rhyddlan.

STELLARIA ULIGINOSA. Bog Stitchwort, — With. II.
420. — Ger. 613. 8. — A. June.

Along

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 397

Along with Centuncnlin Minimus, in a piece of moift
ground about a mile from Llanrwft, about 250 yards
beyond a fmall Dingle, called Nant Bwlch yr Hiarn,
and within 3 or 4 yards of the turnpike road, leading
to Conwy.

ARENARIA PEPLOIDES. Sea Sandroort. — With. II.
421.- — Eng. Bot. 189.' — P. June, July.

On an Ifland in Llanddwyn, near Newborough, Angle-
fea.

ARENARIA MARINA. SeaSpurry. — With. II. 4^2. —
Curtis, 268.— P. May.— Oft.

Salt Marfh near Caernarvon Caftle. — Marfhy .ground
near Dulas Bay, Angleafea.

ARENARIA RUBRA. Purple Spurry. — With. IL
422. — A. June — Aug.

Sandy road fides near Gwyndy, the inn betwixt Bangor
Ferry and Holy head, and in other parts of Anglefea,
common,

ARENARIA MEDIA. Downy Sandwort- — With. II.
422. — A. June — Sept.

" I believe, I have found this plant on Rhyddlan MarCh,
" but am not quite certain." MR. GRIFFITH.

ARENARIA VERNA. Mountain Sandwort. — With.
II. 423. — Eng. Bot. 512. — P. May — Aug.

Road fide betwixt Holywell, and St. Afaph, in plenty. —
Mountainous fituations about Llanberis, and Snow-
don, common.

Variety, i. A. Laricifolia. — With. II. 424.
Amongft the rocks near Tull Du, above Llyn Idwel ; —
and on Clogwyn y Garneddf

Variety,

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Variety, 2. yf. jfuniperlna. — With. II. 424.
Near Tull Du, along with the laft.

ARENARIA TENUIFOLIA. Fine-leaved Sandwort. — •
With, II. 423. — Eng. Bot. 219. — A, June, July.
On an Ifland in Llanddwyn, near Newborough, Angle-
fea.

DECANDRIA.— PENTAGYNIA.

COTYLEDON UMBILICUS. Common Navel-zcort.-^-
With. II. 42,5. — Eng. Boc. 32,5. — P. June — Sept.
On old walls and moift rocks in Caernarvonftnre, and
Mcrionethfhire, in abundance.

SEDUM TELEPHIUM. Orpine Stone-crap. — With. II,
426. — Curtis, 210. — P. Aug.

Amongft the bulhcs on Tuthill, the rock behind the
Hotel Caernarvon. — Pledges near the coaft about
Caernarvon, not uncommon.

SEDUM SEXANGULARE. Injipid Stone-crop. — With,
II. 428. — Curtis, 225. — P. June.
Near Rhuddgall Warren, in the Ifle of Anglefea, nearly
oppofite to Caernarvon.

SEDUM ANGLICUM. Englifk Stone-crop. — With. II.
42^. — Eng. Bot. 171. — P. May, June.
Rocks of Caernarvonlhire, in abundance.

SEDUM REFLEXUM. Yellow Stone-crop. — With. II.
429.— P. July.
Walls and roofs of cottages near Aber, Caernarvon{hire.

SEDUM RUPESTRE. Rock Stone-crop. — With. II.
429. — Eng. Bot. 170. — P. July.

On

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS.

On the north fide of Penmaen Mawr, in Caernarvon-
fhire; amongft the loofe (tones above the turnpike road,
very near the inacceflible rocks; amongft tbehigh rocks
called Creigiau Hysfa Bengam, betwixt Llanberis, and
Cwm Idwel. On a wall fouth of GwydirChapel, by the
road fide leading from Llanrwft, to Capel Curig.

LYCHNIS VISCARIA. Vifcous Catchjly. — With. II.
433-— p- Ma7. June-

Sides of Craig Brciddin, a lofty mountain in Montgo-
jnerymire, about eight miles from WeHh Pool.

CERASTIUM ALPINUM. Alpine Moufe-ear. — With.
II. 434. — Eng. Bot. 472. — P. July, Aug.

Moift rocks of Clogwyn y Garnedd, near Snowdon.
On the north fide of Yr Wyddfa, the fummit of Snow-
don. — And on Clogwyn du'r Arddu.

CERASTIUM CATIFOLIUM. Broad Leaved Moufe-ear.
— With. II. 434. — Eng. Bot. 473. — P. June.

On Clogwyn y Garnedd, growing along with the laft
fpecies.

SPERGULA SUBULATA. — With. II. 436. — S. Sagi-
noides. — Curt. 139. — S. Lariana. — Hucls. 203. —
P. June — Aug.

Dry paftures about Deunant, between Llanfannan, and
Denbigh. — On the firft common, as one afcends the
hill from Nant Glyn, towards Henllan, Denbighfliire.

SPERGULA NODOSA. Knotted Spurry. — With. II.
437.— Curt. 261. — P. July — Sept.

Moift ground near Caernarvon, not uncommon.

CLASS

40O A TO'JR ROUND NORTH WALES,

CLASS X.
DODECANDRIA.— TRIGYNIA.

RESEDA CUTEOLA. Wild Woad. — With. II. 445. — •
Eng. Bot. 320. — A. June, July.
On the coaft of Anglefea, betwixt the Ferry from Caer-
rarvon, and Moel y Don. — Caftell Dolforuyn, near
New town.

EUPHORBIA PORTLAKDICA. Portland Spurge. — •
With. II. 448. — Eng. Bot. 441. — A. May — Aug.
Sandy fea coaft near Caernarvon ; — And on the S. W.
parts of Anglefea.

EUPHORBIA AMYGDALOIDES. Wood Spurge. — With,
II. 452. — Eng. Bot. 2,56. — P. May.
In the wood betwixt Trap Bridge, and Flynnon Fair,
or Dol Beledr in the parifti of Henllan, clofe to a
dangerous path, called Llwybr y Gorth Gotd.

CLASS XI.
ICOSANDRIA.— MONOGYNIA.

PRUNUS PADUS. Bird's Cherry. — With. II. 455.- —
S. May.

Woods and Heilges betwixt Mold, and Nercvvys; — and
in feveral other places of that neighbourhood, very
common.

ICOSANDRIA.— DIGYNI A.

CHAT^GUS ARIA. White-bcam-Tree* — With. II.
2,38. — Ger. 1327-2. — T. May.

Near

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 40!

Near Gloddaeth, Caernarvonfhire. On Penmaen Mawr ;
— And on Craig Breiddin, Montgomeryfhire.

CR AT .ECUS TORMINALIS. Wild Service Tree. — With.
II. 458.— Eng. Bot. 298.— T. May.

Weft lide of Garreg Wen rocks, near Garn, Denbigh-
fhire, abundantly,

ICGSANDRIA.— TRIGYNIA.

SORBUS AUCUPARIA. Mountain AJJi. — With II.
460. — Eng. Bot. 337. — T. May.

Woods and Hedges, very common throughout the whole
pf North Wales.

SORBUS HYBRIDA. Bajlard Service. — With. II.
461. — Flora Danica, 301. — T. May.
On the north wall of Caftell Dinas Bran, near Llan-
gollen, Denbighfhire.

ICOSANDRIA.— PENTAGYNIA.

Spiii;F,A FILIPENDULA, Dropwort. — V/ith. II.. 463.
— Eng. Bot. 284.— P. June, July.
Calcarious rocks and paftures, near the church at Llandid-
no, about 5 miles from Conwy.

ICOSANDRIA.—POLYGYNIA.

ROSA SPINOSISSIMA. Burnet Rofe. — With. II. 46,5.
Eng. Bot. 187. — S. June, July.
On Tuthill, behind the Hotel, at Caernarvon ; and id
the hedges of the road from thence to Banger, plenti-
fujly. — -On Llanymynech hill, in Momgomeryfliire.

ROSA VILLOSA. Apple Rofe.— With. II. 466. — Eng.
Bot. 583,-— S. June.
VOL. ir. K k Hedges

4O2 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Hedges nearly all the way from Llanydloes, to New-
town, Montgomeryfhire.

RUBUS ID.EUS. Raff) -berry Bujh, — With. II. 468. —
S. May, June.

In Thickets amongft the mountain?, between Caernarvon,
and in other parts of North Wales, not very uncom-
mon.

RUBUS SAXATILIS. Stone. Bramble. — With. II. 470.
—P. June.
Amongft the ftones near Llyn y Cwn, above Llanberis.

RUBUS CIIAM^,MORUS. Cloud Berry. — With. II. 471.
— i. May, June.

On Peat bogs, amongft the mountains of Caernarvon-
fhire, a,nd Merionethihire, not unfrequent.

POTENTILLA RupESTRls. • Rock Cinquefoil.— r~W\\h.
n- 473-— Per. 991.— P. July.

On the fides of Craig Breiddin, Montgomeryfhire.

POTENTILLA ARGENTEA. Hoary Cinquefoil. — With.
II. 474. — Eng. Bot. 89. — P. June — Sept.
Near the remains of qne of the Towers of Montgomery

caftle.

POTENTILLA YERNA. Spring Cinquefoil, — With, II.
475. — Eng. Bot. 37. — P. April — June.
Dry places near Gloddaeth, Caernarvonfture.

TORMENTILLA REPTANS. Creeping Tormentil. —
With. II. 476.— P. June, July.
Sandy barren places about Caernarvon, and Llanrwft.

GEUM RIVALE. Water Avcns. — With. II. 478.—
Eng. Bot. 106. — P. June, July.
Amongft the rocks, very near the fuaimit of Snowdon.
*. COM-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 403

COMARUM PALUSTRE. MarJhCinquef oil.— \Vi\h. II.
479. — Eng. Bot. 172. — P. June, July.

In muddy putrid marlhes ih Anglefea, not uncommon.

CLASS XII.
POLYANDRIA.— MONOCJYNIA.

CHELICONIUM GLAUCIUM. Ydlow-horntd Poppy, —
With. II. 584.— Eng. Bot. 8;— A. July, Aug.

On the fea coaft, between Caernarvon and Llanfaghn
church ;— and on the coaft about Llandidno, Hear
Conwy.

FAPAVER CAMBRICUM. Yellow Poppy. — With. II.
488.— Eng. Bot. 66.— P. June— Aug;

A little beyOnd the village of Llanberis, near thp road
leading to Llanrwft. — On Craig Breiddin, Montgo-
mery (hire.

NYMPH^A LUTEA. Yellow Water Lily. — With. IL

488. — Eng. Bot. 159. — P. July, Aug.
In flow rivers in Anglefea, frequent.

NYMPH^EA ALBA. White Water Lily. — With. II.

489. — Eng. Bou 160. — P.July.

In Llyn Tecwyn ifa, a pool, near the road betwixt Tan-
y-bwlch and Harlech, in Merionethfhire ; — and in
Llyn Mwyngil, betwixt Dolgelle and Machynlleth.

CISTUS MARIFOLIUS. Hoary Dwarf Cijlus.

Bot. 396. — C. Anglicus. — With. II. 490. — C. Hir-
fiitus. — Hudf. 232. — P. May — July.

K k z On

404 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Cn Diferth Caftle hill, near Rhyddlan, Flintfhire, plen-
tifully. — Gloddaeth, nearConwy; — and on the weft
iidc of Burod Arthur, near Lla-ndonna, about five miles
from Beaumaris, Anglefea.

CISTUS GUTTALUS. Spoiled -flowo ed Ciflus. — With.
II. 591.— Eng. Bot. 544.— A. June, July.

Sandy pafturea on the mountain called Llech ddu, near
Holyhead, Anglefea.

CISTUS HELIANTIIEMUM. Dwarj Ciftits. — With. II.
492. — Curtis. — P. June — Aug.
On Diferth Caftle hill; — and Llnymynech hill ia Mont-
gomery (hire.

POLYANDRIA.— PENTAGYNIA.

AQUILEGIA VULGARIS. Columbines. — With. II. 49,5^
— Eng. Bot. 297. — P. June.

Thickets near Banger, Caernarvonshire.

POLYANDRIA.— POLYGYNIA.

ANEMONE NEMOROSA, having on the leaves Ly coper-
don Innatum. Conjuror of Ckalcrave 's Fern. —
With. IV. 383

In Mr. Pennant's woods, at Downing, near Hofywell,
Flintfliire.

THALICTRUM ALPINUM. Mountain Rue-weed. — With.
II. 500. — Eng. Bot. 262. — P. June.

Rocks about Llyc y Cwn, and Tull Du; — and on Clog-
wyn y Garnedd.

TIIAUCHRUM MINUS. Le/er Rue-zcecd. — With. II.

. — &n#. Bot. 11 — P. July, Aug.

On

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 405

On Diferth Caflle hill.— Rocks about Tull Da and
Snowdon ; — and on Cader Idris, in Merionethfhire.

RANUNCULUS LINGUA. Great Spearzuort.-^-Wuh.
JL 504. — Eng. Bot. 100.

Wet paftures about Caernarvon.

RANUNCULUS GRAMINEUS. Grafs-leaved Crowfoot,
—With. II. 50,5.—?. Apr. May

" Said to be found in the neighbourhood of Llanrwft,
but I have hitherto fought for it in vain."

MR. GRIFFITH.

RANUNCULUS PARVIFLORUS. Small-flowered Crow-
foot.— With. II. 506. — Eng. Bot. 120. — A. May,
June.
In a gravelly foil near Holyhead, Anglefea.

RANUNCULUS HEDERACEUS. Ivy-leaved Crowfoot.—
With. II. 507. — Curtis, 247. — P. June — Aug.

In (hallow ftreams in Caernarvonftiire, common.

TROLLIUS EUROPJEUS. Globe Flower. — With. II.
,509. — Eng. Bot. 28. — P. May, June.
In the vale of Llanberis.

HELLEBORUS VIRIIHS. Green Hellebore. — With. II.
,510. — Eng. Bot. 200. — P. March — May.

Jn the wood clofe to thehoufe of Robert Watkin Wynne,
Efq. at Plas Ncvvydd, near Denbigh.

HELLEBORUS FCETIDUS. Bear's Foot. — With. II.
,510. — Eng. Bot. 613. — P. April.
Park. Pierce, and the Crcft near Denbigh.

CLASS

A TOUR ROUND NdftTfc

CLASS XIII.
DIDYNAMIA.— GYMNOSPERMIA.

AJUGA ALPINA. Alpine Buglt. — Eng. Bot. 477. — •
With. III. 516.— P. June, July.

On Carnedd Llewelyn, a high mountain, neat Nanf
Frangon, between Bangof and Capel Cufig, in Caer-
narvonftiire.

TEUCRIUM CHAMEDRYS. Common Germander. — With.
III. 518. — Woodv. 243. — P. June, July.

" In the N. W, hedge of the bowling-green at Ruthin
Caftle, Denbighfhire ; but it grew there fome time be-
fore the bowling-green was made." MR. GRIFFITH.

NEPETA,CATARIA. Catmint. — With. III. 5x9. — Eng,
Bot. 137.— P. July.
Hedges betwixt Bangor and Caernarvon.

VERBENA OFFICINALIS* Fervain. — With. III. 520.—
Curtis. — A. Aug. Sept.
Wafte places near Caernarvon Caftle, in plenty,

GALEOPSIS GRANDIFLORA. — With. III. ,529. — G. Vil*
lofa. — Hudf. 256. — A, July ..Aug.
Sandy fields about Bangor.

GALEOPSIS VERSICOLOR. Large -flowered Hemp Net-
tle.— Eng. Bot. 667. — G. Carmabcna. With. III.
529.— G. Tetrahit. 1. Hudf. 257.— A. July, Aug.

About Chirk, in Denbighftiire, and in many fmall inclo-
fures by the road fide from thence to Llangollen.

GA.

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 407

JGALF.OBDOLON LUTEUM. Tellow Dead Nettle.—
With. III. 530. — Curtis, 223. — P. May, June.
In the hedge on the left of the road leading from Llan-
gollen to Valle Crucis Abbey.

^BETONICA OFFICINALIS. Wood Bctony. — With. III.
53 *•— Curtis, 154.^-?. July, Aug.
Hedges about Caernarvon, common.

STACHYS ARVENSIS. Corn Woundwort. — With. III.
^2. — Curtis, 246. — A. June- — Aug.
Cornfields near Caernarvon.

J^EONURUS CARDIAC A. Common Motherwort. — With.
III. 534. — Eng. Bot. 286. — P. June — Aug.

In the hedge on the right of the road between Hawarden
and Hplywell, about zf miles from the former place,

QRIQANUM VULGARE. Wild Marjoram. — With. III.
,53,5.— Curtis, 338.— P. July.
Amongft the ruins of Conwy Caftle. — Hedges about
Llanrwtt.

THYMUS ACINOS. Bafil Thyme. — With. III. 539.-— -
Eng. Bot. 411.— rA. June — Aug.
In a dry field, between TyrNewydd and Eriviatt, in the
parifh of Henllan, Denbighlhire.

SCUTELLARIA MINOR, fcjfer Scullcap. — With. III.
540.— Eng. Bot. ,524.— P. July, Aug.

grounds about Caernarvon and Llanberis.

DIDYNAMIA. — ANGIOSPERMIA.

MELAMPYRUM SYLVATICUM. Tellow Cow-Wheat.
With. III. 546. — A. June — Aug.

Shady

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Shady places on the left of the road betwixt Barmouth
and Dolgelle.

LATHR.*:A SQUAMARIA. Great Tooth-wort, — With.
III. ,547. — Eng. Bot. 50. — P. April, May.

Shady places on the weft fide of Garrcg Wen rocks, near
Garn, clofe to the rivulet.

ANTIRRHINUM CYMBALARIA. Ivy-leaved Snap-Dra-
gon.— With. III. ,549.— Eng. Bot. .502. — P.June —
October,

On an old wall, near Mold, Flintlhire. — On a wall, be-
fore the door of a gentleman's houfe, near Beaumarjs,
Anglefea, c.alled the Hermit;ige,

ANTIRRHINUM ELATING. .Sharp-pointed Toad-JIax^
With. III. 549. — Curtis.— A.,Aug. — Oclqber.

In the firft field, from the houfe of Plas Meifodd, in the
p'arifh of Henllan,— On ' hedge banks about Ty
Newydd, in Rhil, near Rhyddlan, Flintfhire.

~ ;. • . • ' •

ANTIRRHINUM MINUS. Lcaft Snap-Dragon. — With,
III. ,5,51. — Curtis, 296. — A. June- -September.

. Sandy corn fields, between Abergeley and the fta, Den-
bighfhire.

ANTIRRHINUM ORONTIUM. Lcfs Snap -Dragon.—-,
With. III. 5,52. — Curtis, 234. — A. July, Auguft.,

Corn fields about Abergeley, and in many other places
along the fea coalT, from thence toward Conwy ferry,

ANTIRRHINUM MAJUS. Greater Snap - Dragon. —
With. III. 552. — Eng. Bat. 129. — B. June, July.

On the walls of Bafingwerk Abbey, near Holywell.—
Old walls about Ruthuv

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 409

SCIIROPHULARIA VERNALIS. Ydloio Fig-wort. — With.
III. 554.— Eng. Bot. 567. — B. April, May.

Near Gloddaeth, Caernarvonfliire. — About Llanforda,
the feat of Sir Williams Wynne, Bart. Merionethftiire.

LIMOSELLA AO^UATICA. Mudwort. — With. III. 557.
Eng. Bot. 357.— A. July— Sept.
Rhyd Marfh, near Preftatyn, Flintfliire.

OROBANCHE M-NJOR. Common Broomrape. — With,
III. 557. — Eng. Bot. 441. — P.May, June,

Cliffs of Anglefea on the lide of the Menai, between
the ferry from Caernarvon and Moel y Don.

OROBANCHE MINOR. Lejfer Broomrape. — Eng. Bot.
422. — 0 Ramofa, /3, Hudf. 1266. — P. June, July.
In two or three places amongft the ruins of Conwy Cattle.

CLASS XIV.
TETRADYNAMIA.— SILICULOSA.

BUNIAS CAKILE. Sea Rocket. — With. III. 562.—
Eng. Bot. 231. — A. June — Oft.
Coaft of Anglefea, near Abermcnai ferry.

CRAMBE MARITIMA. Sea Colewort. — With. III. 563.
P. May, June.

Sandy fea coaft, between Rhuddgaer and Llanddwyn,
Anglefea. — Llyn, Caernarvonfliire.

SUBULARIA AQUATICA. Water Awlwort. — With. III.
564.— A. June, July.

VOL. H. LI In

41O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the pool near Llanberis, called Ffynnon Freeh, plenti-
fully.— In Llyn y Cwn, but much more fparingly.

DRABA INCANA. Twifted-podded Whitlow-Grafs* —
With. III. 566.— Eng. Bot. 388.— B. May— July.
On the high rocks, between Llanberis and Llyn Idwel,
called Creigian Hysfa Bengam.

LEPIDIUM LATIFOLIUM. Broad-leaved Pepper-Wort,
With. III. 367. — Eng. Bot. 182. — P. June, July.

On hedge banks, betwixt Rhyddlan and the fea, a Irttle
way from the Stone Houfe. — On a fraall common in
Denbigh Caftle, above the high gate.

THLASPI CAMPESTRE. Mithridate-MuJlard. — With.
III. 569. — Curtis. — B. June, July.
Dry lanes near Caernarvon, not uncommon.

THLASPI ALPESTRE. Alpine Shepherd's Purfe. — With.
III. 570. — Eng. Bot. 81. — T. Montanum. — Hudf.
282.— B. July.

By the fide of a rivulet, on a dingle, called Nant Bwlch
yr hiarn, about a mile from Llanrvvft bridge, and not
more than 20 yards from the turnpike road leading to
Conwy.

COCHLEARIA OFFiciNALis. Scurvy Grafs. — With.
III. 572. — Eng. Bot. 55I.— A. April, May;

Sea ftiores near Barmouth, Merionethfhire; — and on
Clogwyn y Garnedd, near Snowdon.

Variety I. — C. Groenlandica. — With. III. 573.
Moift rocks about Llanberis and Snowdon, plentifully.

COCHLEARIA DANICA. Danifh Scurvy-Grafs. — With.
III. 573.— A. May— July.

Sea

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 411

Sea fhore near Llanbadric church, on the north coaft of
Anglefea.

COCHLEARIA ANGLICA. Englijh Scurvy -Grafs. — •
With. III. 574. — Eng. Bot. 552. — A. orB. May.
Sea mores, in a muddy foil, on the north-eaft coaft of
Anglefea.

IBERIS NUDICAULIS. Naked-Jlnlked Candy Tuft. — •
With. III. ,575. — Eng. Bot. 327. — A. May — July.

On the fide of the hill, half a mile from Corwen, above
the turnpike road leading to Llangollen. — On banks,
about the mid- way from Cerrig y Druidion to Den-
bigh;— and between Pont y Gwyddel and Bettws
Abergeley, in Denbighfhire.

TETRADYNAMIA.— SILIQUOSA.

CARDAMINE HIRSUTA. Hairy-leaved Ladies' -Smock.
With. III. ,578.— Eng. Bot. 492.— A. March-
June.

Near Lord Penrhyn's flate quarries, betwixt Bangor and
Capel Curig. — Dry banks about Bala, Llanrhaiadr,
and feveral other places.

SISYMBRIUM TENUIFOLIUM. Wall Rocket. — Eng.
Bot. 525. — Brajfica Muralis. — With. III. 592. —
Hudf. 290. — P. May — July.
On the walls of Harlech Caftle, Merionethftiire.

ERYSIMUM CHEIRANTHOIDES. Treacle Worm/eed.—
With. III. 585.— A. July.

Turnip and corn fields near Tan y Llan, in the parifh of
Llanyfydd, in Denbighfhire.

L 1 » CHEI-

4,12 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CHEIRANTHUS SINUATUS. Prickly -podded Gilly
Flower.— With. III. 586.— Eng. Bot. 462.— B.
June, July.

Newborough fands, Anglefea. — Sea coaft near Penmorfa,
Caeraarvonfhire.

ARABIS THALIANA. Wall Crefs. — With. III. 587. —
Curtis. — A. May.

Hill near the parfonage houfe at Henllan, Denbighftiire,
and in that neighbourhood abundantly.

ARABIS HISPIDA. — Linn. Syft. Veg. ed. 13. p. 501. —
Cardamine Petraa. — With. III. ,577.^-?. May —

July-

On the high rock near Llanbcris, called Clogwyn Du'r
Arddu, plentifully.

I have placed this plant here from the opinion of Dr.
Smith, who compared my fpecimens with thofe of Lin-
nzus in his pofleffion. He tells me, that Cardamine
Haftulata, Eng. Bot. 469, is nothing more than a
fmooth variety of it. Mr. Griffith, induced probably
by Lightfoot's figure, 1 5. 2. and the plate in Eng. Bot.
is of opinion, that this plant is C. Haftulata. All
doubts on the fubjeft will, however, be removed, on
the appearance of Dr. Smith's intended Flora Britan-
nica, a work that has been very long and anxioufly ex-
peeled. W. B.

TURRITIS HIRSUTA. Hairy Towerwort. — With. III.
£89.— P. June, July.
On Garreg Wen rocks, near Garn,

BR.ASSICA OLERACEA. Sea Cabbage. — With. III. 591.
— Eng. Bot. 637. — P. May, June,

Near

UNCOMMON WELSH' PLANTS. 413

Near Harlech Caftle, Merionethftiire. — Near Aberdaron,
at the extremity of the Promontory of Llyn, Caer-
narvonfhire,

BRASSICA MONENSIS. IJle of Man Cabbage. — With.
III. 593. — Lightf. 15.1. — B. May— July.

In fandy foil on the fea cpaft, near Abermenai Ferry,
Anglefea.

CLASS XV. ; ;
MONADELPHIA.— PENTANDRIA.

ERODIUM MARITIMUM. Sea Stork/bill. — Eng. Bot.
646. — L' Hem. in Ait. Hort. Kew. II. 416. —
Geranium Mantimuvo. — With. III. 6.6. — Huds.
301. — P. May — Sept.

Walls on the coaft near Llanfaglan Church, three miles
S. W. of Caernarvon.

MONADELPHIA.— DECANDRIA.

GERANIUM SANGUJNEUM. Bloody CraneJbill.-~;
With, III. 600. — Eng. Bot. 272. — P. July — Sept.

Near Diferth CaftJe, Flintflxire. — Gloddaeth near
Conwy. — On cliffs of the coaft of Anglefea, betwixt
the Ferry, from Caernarvon, and Moel y Don.

GERANIUM .DISSECTUM. Jagge£L Crane/bill. — •
With. III. 603.— Curtis.— A. May— Aug.

Borders of fields, &c. in the neighbourhood of Garn,
near Denbigh, common.

GER-

4,1.^ A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

GERANIUM COLUMBINUM. Long-ftalked Crane/bill.
—With. III. 603. — Eng. Bot. 2,59. — A. June—

Aug.

In many of the cornfields near Caernarvon; — In the
hedge near the fecond mileftone, on the road from that
place to Bangor.

GERANIUM LUCIDUM. Shining Crane/bill. — With.
III. 607. — Eng. Bot. 75. — A. June — Aug.
Shady places about Gwydir Chapel, near Llanrwft.
Under the Bridge wall at Rug, near Corwen, Meri-
onethfhire.

GERANIUM ROTUNDIFOLIUM. Doves-foot Crane/bill.
With. III. 372. — Eng. Bot. 157. — A. May — July.
In the neighbourhood of Garn.

MONADELPHIA.— POLYANDRIA.

MALVA MOSCHATA. Mujk Mallow. — With. III.
613. — Curtis. 228. — P. July — Aug.
Hedges near Crernarvon, and Llanrwft.

LAVATERA ARBOREA. Sea Tree Mallow. — With III.
614.— B. July— Oft.
On the coaft of Anglefea.

CLASS XVI.
DIADELPHIA.— HJJ,EXANDRIA.

FUMARIA LUTEA. Yellow Fumitory .—Eng. Bot.
,588.— F. Capnoittcs.—With. III. 620.— P. May.
— Sept. '

Said to grow on the rock behind the town of Barmohth,
but I fought for it in vain. W. B.

FUMARIA

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 415

FUMARIA CLAVICULATA. Climbing Fumitorv.—
With. III. 621. — Eng. Bot. 103. — A. June— Sept.

Under the walls, near a Farm-houfe, in Gwynant, about
£T miles from Beddgelert, at the entrance into Cwm
Llan. — Amongft the -ruins of Caergurle Caftle, Flint-
(hire. — Under Glyn Bridge, near Corwen. - — In a
hedge in the lane, at the North end of Bala Pool. —
la the lane leading from Llanrhaiadr, to Piftyll
Rhaiadr.

DIADELPHIA.— DECANDRIA.

GENISTA PILOSA. Hairy Greenweed. — With. III.
625. — Eng. Bot. 208. — S. May. June.

Between Dolgelle, and Llyn Arran, at the foot of Cader

Idris, about half a mile from the pool.
GENISTA ANGLICA. Needle Furze. — With. III. 62,5.
— Eng. Bot. 132. — S. May, June.
Uncultivated ground in Anglefea, frequent.

ANTHYLLIS VULNERARIA. Ladies' -Finger. — With.
III. 629. — Eng. Bot. 104.— P. May — Aug.

Diferth Caftle Hill, near Rhyddlan.

Variety, II. — Bloffoms fcarlet.
On thefand banks near Llanddwyn, Anglefea.

OROBUS SYLVATICUS. Bitter Vetch. — With. III.
1630. — Eng. Bot. 518. — P. May — July.

Paftures betwixt the Inn at Ffeftiniog, and the bridge
over the Cynfael, near the falls. — In meadows on the
banks of the Conwy, about feven miles above
Llanrwft. — Near the cataraft at Dolymelynllyn, 6
miles from Dolgelle. — About Cerrig y Druidion,
find Yfpytty, Denbighmire.

OR onus

416 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

OROBUS TUBEROSUS. Heath Peafeling. — With. III.
631. — Curtis. — P. April, May.

Gam Dingle, aad woods in that neighbourhood, very
common.

LATHYRUS SYLVESTRIS. Wild Lathyrns. — With. III.
634. — Ger. 1229.1. — P. July, Aug.
Woods and hedges near Comvy.

LATHYRUS LATIFOLIUS. Broad-Lcwed-Vctchting.
With. III. 634.— Mart. 8.— P, July, Aug.

Near Gyffin Mill, half a mile from Convvy.
LATHYRUS PALUSTRIS. Marjh Vetchling. — With. III.
635.— Eng. Bot. 169.— P. July, Aug.
Moift paftures near Beddgelert.

VICIA SYLVATICA. V/ood Vetch. — With. III. 635. —
Eng. Bot. 79.— P. July, Aug.
On the S. W. fide of Garreg Wen rocks, clofe to the
wall that divides the Garn Demefne, from that of
Galltfaynan. — In the wood below Pont yr Allt goch,
near St. Afaph ; — and in Lord Bulkeley's woods,
near Beaumaris, Anglefea.

ORNITHOPUS PERPUSILLUS. Common Bird's-foot. —
With. III. 640. — Eng. Bot. 369. — A. May— Sept.
Dry places, midway between Pont y Gwyddel, and
Bettws Abergeley, Denbighfhire. — S. E. end of Moel
y Gaer, and rocks above Llanyfydd, Denbighfhire.

ASTRAGALUS HYPOGLOTTIS. Purple Mountain Milk-
wort. — With. III. 643. — Eng. Bot. 274. — P. June,

On the top of Tu thill, behind the Hotel, Caernarvon ? —
Banks by the road fide, near Harlech. — Near Caer-
gurle Caftle, Flintfhire.

ASTRA-

UNCOMMON-WELSH PLANTS. 417

ASTRAGALUS GLYCYPHYLLOS'. Wild Liquorice.

With. III. 643. — Eng. Bot. 203.— P. June, July.
Hills about Yfpytty, Denbighfhire.

TRIFOLIUM MELILOTUS OFFICINALIS. Common Me-
lilot. — With. III. 645. — Mart. 72. — A. or B.
June, July.

On the north fide of the turnpike road, on Saltney,
near Chefter, at the extreme boundary of the county
of Flint.

TRIFOLIUM GLOMERATUM. Round-Headed Trefoil.
With. III. 648. — Curtis, 227. — A. May, June.
On the hill in the front of Garn Houfe, and on Henllan
Hill, Denbighfhire.

TRIFOLIUM ARVENSE. Hares-Foot TrcfoiL—With.
III. 649.— Curtis.— A. July, Aug.
Creft near Denbigh, and not uncommon in other places
of that neighbourhood.

TRIFOLIUM FRAGIFERUM. Strawberry Trefoil. —
With. III. 654.— Curtis.— P. Aug.
In mod of the paftures adjoining to the Sea coaft, about
Ty newydd, and Preftatyn, near Rhyddlan, Flintflure.

CLASS XVII.
POLYADELPHIA.— POLYANDRIA.

HYPERICUM ANDROSOEMUM. Tutfan. — With. III.
663. — Curtis, 265. — P. July— Sept.
In a hedge near the Menai, between Caernarvon, and
.Llanfair Ifcaer. — Amongft the rocks at the cataract,
Rhaiadr du, near Maenturog, Merionethfhirz.
VOL. ii. M in, HYPER-

.j.tS A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

HVPKRICUM QUADRANGULUM. Quadrangular St.
Johns-Wort. — With. III. 663. — Eng. Bot. 370. —
P.July.

In Maes y Forth woods, near. Newboroogh, Anglefea.

HYPERICUM DUBIUX. Imperf orate St. Johns-zcort. —
With. III. 664.— Eng. Bot. 296.—?, July, Aug.

Hedges near Beddgelert.

HYPERICUM HUMIFUSUM. Trailing St. Johns-wort.
With. III. 66,5.— Curtis, 162.— P. July..

Dry bank fides about Caernarvon, not uncommon.

!

HYPERICUM ELODES. MarJJi St. John s-vort. —
With. III. 66,5.— Eng. Bot. 109.— P. July.

Bogs on the mountains betwixt Caernarvon, and Llanbe-

ris. — Swampy places in Anglefea.
rs r s

HYPERICUM MONTANUM. Mountain St. John's-zvort*
With. III. 666.— Eng. Bot. 371.— P. July.

Thickets in mountainous fituations, near Penmaen Mawr,
Caernarvonfhire : — On Ewrdd Arthur, above Llan-
donna, near Beaumaris, Anglefea.

HYPERICUM HIRSUTUM. Hairy St. Jokns-zvort. —
With. III. 666.— Curtis, 182.— P. June, July.

In a wood below Garn Coppice, near Denbigh, and itt
feveral other places in that neighbourhood.

HYPERICUM PULCHRUM. Upright St. Jvhris-zvort.
With. III. 667.— Curtis.— P. June, July.

Heaths and thickets in expofcd lituations, between Caer-
narvon, and Llanberis.

5- CLASS-

-UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 419

CLASS XVIII.

SYNGENESIA.-POLYGAMIA-.EOALIS.

HIKRACIUM .ALPIXUM. Mountain Hawkweed.' —
With. III. 683. — Lightf. 18, at p. 434.— Ray 6. 2.
-P. July, Aug.

Rocks near Llyn y Cwn, and on Glyder and Trigfylchau
rocks, near Llanberis.

HIERACIUM TARAXACI.— With. Ill,

Autumnah Taraxaci. — Hudf. 431. — P. July.

^<J %J J •

Moifl places near Llyn y Cwn.

Mr. Griffith is of opinion, that this plant is nothing
more than a variety of Leontodon Autumnale, With.
III. 680. — He compared his fpecimens taken from the
(here of Llyn y Cwn, with thofe of Dr. Withering,
fent him from abroad, which exaftly agreed. — He
had however, the precaution to take one of the roots,
which upon cultivation, became much changed. _ The
ftalk which had hitherto been fimple, became much
branched, and the calyx loft nearly all it's woollinefs,
whilft the leaves remained the fame. — Under thefe
circumftances it cannot r/ell be confidered as a diftinft
fpecies. ~^\

HI-ERACIUM MuRORUM. - Golden Lungzvori.—With.
III. 686.— Gen 304.1.— P. July.

On rock? in Caernarvonflnrs, not uncommon. — Walls
of Caftell Dinas Bran.

HIERACIUM SYLVATICUM. Wirfi. 111.' '687. — H.
Murorum, 6. — Hudf. 345. — Ger. 304.2. — P. Aug.
Qn the fide of Llyn y Cwn.

H-

42O A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CICHORIUM INTYBUS. Endive. — With. III. 693. —
Eng. Bot. 539. — B. July, Aug.
Fields near the village of Llandidno, not far from

Convvy, Caernarvonftiire.

SERRATULA TJNCTORIA. Common Sazo-wort. —
With. III. 695.— Eng. Bot. 58.— P. July.
Moift Meadows near Beddgelert, common.

SERRATULA ALPINA. Alpine Saw-wort. — With. III.
696. — Eng. Bot. 599. — P. Aug. Sept.
On the h'jgheft rocks of Clogwyn y Garnedd, very near
the fummit of Snowdon.

CARDUUS TENUIFLORUS. Slender-flowered Thiftle.

-With. III. 698.— Eng. Bet. 412.— P. July, Aug.

Dry banks near Caernarvon Caftle.
CARDUUS MARIANUS. Milk Thijtle. — With. III.

700. — Curt. 148. — A. Aug.

About Diferth Caftle, near Rhyddlan ; — and Caergurle
Caftle, near Mold, Flintfliire.

CARDUUS HETEROPHYLI.US. Melancholy Thijlle. —
Eng. Bot. 675 — C. Helenoides. — With. III. 7P2.-^-
Hudf. 352. — P. June — Aug.

In the afcent from Llanberis, to Glyder.

SANTOLINA MARITIMA. Sea Cudweed. — With. III.
707. — Eng. Bot. 141. — P. Aug. Sept.
Plentifully on the fandy fea fhore near Abernai Ferry, in
Anglefea.

SYNGENESIA.— POLIGAMIA-SUPERFLUA.

ARTEMISIA MARITIMA. Sea Wormwood. — With.
111.709. — Woodv. 123. — P. Aug.

On the S. W. coaft of Anglefea.

GNAPHA-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 42!

GNAPHALUIM DIOICUM. Cahsfoot. — With. III. 713.
Eng. Bot. 267. — P. May, June.

On rocks in the upper part of the Cleft Tull dii, above
Llyn Idwel.-

GNAPHALUIM RECTUM. Upright Cudweed. — With.
III. 713. — Eng. Bot. 124. — P. Aug.

On Windy Bank Hill, near Denbigh ; — and on Cader
Idris.

CONYZA SQUARROSA. Great Fleabane. — With. III.
717. — Ger. 192. — B. July, Aug.

Near the ruins of Bafingwerk Abbey. — On Diferth
Caflle hill. — Sides of the road betwixt Caernarvon,
and Seiont bridge. — Near the houfes at Moel y Don
Ferry, Anglefea.

ERIGERON ACRE. Blue Fleabane. — With. III. 719. —
Curtis. — B. July — Sept.

Amorigft the ruins of Denbigh Caftle. — Meadow on
Ruthin Caftle, — Betwixt Rhuddgaer, and Llanddwyn,
Anglefea.

SENECIO Viscosus. Clammy GroundfeL — With. III.
722. — Eng. Bot. 32. — A. Aug. — Dec.

On the fhore of Bala Lake.

SENECIO SYLVATICUS. Bitffiy GroundfeL — With. III.
723. — Ger. 278.2. — A. July.

Bank fides near Pont Aberglasllyn, Merionethshire.

SENECIO TENUIFOLIUS. Hoary GroundfeL — With:
III. 723. — Eng. Bot. 574. — 5. Erucifollus. — liudf.
366. — P. Aug.

In

422. A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

In the wood below Garn Coppice, nrar Denbigh. — Ee- .
twcen Henlla.n, and Holy well, by the road fide, mid-
way from Llancrch Bridge, and Demeirchion.

ASTER TRIPOLUIM. Sea Starwort. — With. III.
726. — Eng. Bot. 87. — P. Aug. Sept.

- In a fait water ditch near Rhyddlan, by the road fide
leading from thence to St. Afaph.— Marfhy coaft,
near Dulas Bay, Anglefea.

SOLIDAGO CAMBRICA. Wtljk GolJcnrod.—W&h. III. ,
728.— P. July.

Mountains near Llanberis; — On Glyder; and about
Llyn y Cwn.

INULA HELENIUM. Common Elecampane. — With.
III. 730. — Woodv. 108.— P. July, Aug.

Moift meadows betwixt St. Afaph, and Denbigh.

INULA CRITHMOIDES. Golden Samphire. — With. III.
732. — Eng. Bot. 68. — P. Aug.

Salt marines near Llanddwyn, Anglefea.

CHRYSANTHEMUM SEGETUM. Corn Marigold. —
With. ill. 735. — Eng. Bot. 540. — A. June, Oft.

Cornfields, much too abundantly.

ANTHEMIS NOBIUS. Common Chamomile. — With.
III. 739. — Woodv. 103. — P. Aug. Sept.

In a field near Trefriw Houie, not far from Llanfaelog,
Anglefea. — Harlech marfli, plentifully.

CLASS

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 423

CLASS XIX.
GYNANDRIA.— DIANDRIA.

ORCHIS BIFOLIA. Butterfly Orchis. — With. II. 21.
— Eng. Bot. 22. — P. June.

Moift ground near Bala, Merioneth {hire.
ORCHIS PYRAMIDALIS. Late-flowering Orchis. —
With. II. 23. — Eng. Bot. no. — P. June, July.
Gloddaeth wood near Conwy.

ORCHIS CONOPSEA. Red-handed Orchis. — With. IL
28. — Eng. Bot. 10. — P. June.
In a (mail bog S. of Mr. Lloyd's new garden, at Wygfair,
near St. Afaph.

SATYRIUM VIRIDE. Frog Satyrion. — With. II. 301;
Eng. Bot. 94. — P. June — Aug.
Fields between the houfe of Fron, and the upper wood,
in the parifli of Mold, in FJintftiire.

SATYRIUM ALBIDTJM. White Satyrion. — With. II.
31. — Eng. Bot. 505. — P. June, July.

Moift meadows near Lord Penrhyn's Slate Quarries,
betwixt Bangor, and Capel Curig, Caernarvonfliire,

OPHRYS SPIRALIS. Triple Tray blade. — With. IL

33.— Eng. Bot., 541.— P. Aug. — 6ft.

Old paftures of Caernarvonshire, and Anglcfea.
OPHRYS Ov ATA, Cowman Trayblade. — Wiih. II. 3^.

— Curtis. 177. — P. May — July.

Maes y Forth wood, near Newbofoogh, Anglefea.

SF.RAPIAS CATIFOLIA, Common Ht//e7Jorine.—W\th;
11. 40. — Eng. Bot. 269. — P. July; Aug.

424 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Road fide from Henllan, to Llanfannan, near Pen Por-
chell, two miles from the former place.

SERAPIAS PALUSTRIS. Marjh Hetleborine.—Eng.
Bot. 270. — S. Longifolia. — With. II. 41. — P.
July, Aug.
Marfhy meadows in Caernarvonfhire, and Anglefea.

CLASS XX.
MONOECIA.— MONANDRIA.

ZANNICHELLIA PALUSTRIS. Horned Pond-weed. —
With. II. 6.— A. June, July.
In many of the rivers of Caernarvonmire, and Anglefea,

MONOECIA.— DIANDRIA.

LEMNA GIBBA. Gibbon s Duck's-meat. — With. II.
44.— A. July, Aug.

Ditches on the north weft fide of Rhyd Marlh, near
Rhyddlan.

MONOECIA.— TRIANDRIA.

SPAR CAN IUM NATANS. floating Burweed. — With.
JI. 112. — Eng. Bot. 273. — P. July,

In the lakes near Llanberis; — and Llyn Ogwen, be-
twixt Bangor, and Capel Curig.

CAREX DIOICA. Small Sfg.—With. II. 86.— Eng.

Bot. 543.— P. June, July.

In a bog at the upper end of Llyn Idwel, Caernarvonfhire.

CAREX

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 425

CAR£X PULICARIS. Flea Seg.-~ With. II. 86.— P.
June.

At the bottom of a field called Gerddi, oppofite to
Garregwen rocks, near Garn.

CAREX ARENARIA. Sea Seg. — With. II. 90. — Plate
XX.— P. June.

Sandy beach near Preftatyn, Flintfhire, and Comvy
marfh, Caernarvonlhire.

CAREX INTERMEDIA. Soft Seg. — With. II. 91.—
P. May, June.

Moift meadows between Pwll y Gorfog, and the fea, in
the parifh of Rhyddlan.

CAREX PEIMDULA. Pendulous Seg. — With. II. 96.
Curt. 180.— P. May, June.

Near the rivulet on the weft fide of Garreg Wen rocks,
in the parifh of Henllan, Denbighfhire.

CAREX STRIGOSA. Loofe Seg. — With. II. 96.— Linn,
Tran. II. 20. 4. — P. April, May.

Garn Dingle in a wet fpot, near the bottom' of the
Glade.

CAREX FLAVA. Yellow Seg.~ Variety, 2.— With.
n- 99-— P- JIine, July.
On the borders of Llyn Idwel, near Llanberis.

CAREX DISTANS. Loofe Seg. — With. II. ioo.-^-P.
May, June.

Heaths, Llanyfydd mountain, Denbighfhirc.— Buckley
mountain, Flintfhire.

CAREX ATRATA. Black Seg.— With. II. 105.—.
P. June — Aug.

Mountains about Llanberis, plentifully.
VOL. u. N n

426 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CAREX Pi LU LIFER A. Pill-bearing Seg. — With. II.
105. — P. April — June.

On a dry bank, facing Lanberis village, on the afcent to-
wards Llyn y Cwn.

CAREX RIGIDA. — With. II. 106. — Linn. Tran. 22.
10. — P. April, May.

On Crib y Ddefcil, near Llanberis.

CAREX AMPULLACEA. Beaked Scg. — With. II. no.
—C. ytfcaria.—Hud(.—P. May— July.
Llyn Idwel, near Llanberis.

MONOECIA.— TETRANDIA.

LITTORELLA LACUSTRis. Plantain Shoreweed. —
With. II. 194.— Eng. Bot. 468.— P. June— Aug..
On the bank at the fouth end of Bala Lske.

MONOECIA.— POLYANDRIA.

POTERIUM SANGUISORBA.— Upland Eurnet.—With.
II. 493- — Curtis. — P. April, May.
Bank fides near Beaumaris, Anglefea. — Diferth Caflle-
hill, Flintfture.

CLASS XXI.
DISECIA.— DIANDRIA.

SALIX HERBACEA. Herbaceous Willow. — With. II.
48.— S. July.
On the hieheft rocks of Snowdon.

DI-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 427

DIOECIA.— TRIANDRIA.

EMPETRUM INGRUM. Crake-berries. — With. II. 176.
Eng. Hot. 526.— S. April, May.
Mountainous moors of Caernarvonftrire and Merioneth-
Ihire, plentifully.

DIOECIA.— TETRANDIA.

VISCUM ALBUM. White Mijletoe. — With. II. 203.— •
Woodv. 270. — S. May.

On apple trees in many places between Chirk and Llan-
gollen, Denbighfhire. — In Broughton village, Flint-
fhire.

MYRICA GALE. Sweet Gale. — With. II. 208. — Eng.
Bot. ,562. — S. May.
Bogs, common.

DIOECIA.— OCTANDRIA.

RHODIOLA ROSEA. Yellow Rofe-wort.—Wtth. II.
389. — Eng. Bot. ,508. — P. June, July.

Rocks about Tull Du, above Cwm Idwel. — On Craig y
Cae, Cader Idris.

MONOEGIA. — MONAD EL PHI A.

JUNIPERUS COMMUNIS. Common Juniper Tre£. —
With, III. 599. — Woodv. 95. — S. May.

Llysfaen rocks, in the county of Caernarvon.
Variety 2. Mountain Dwarf Juniper. — Ger. 1372, 3.
Rock» near Llyn y Cwm, above Llanberis.

N n 2 CLASS

428 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

CLASS XXII.
POLYGAMIA.— MONOECIA.

ATRIPLEX PORTULACOIDES. Sea PurJIanc. — With.
II. 274. — Eng. Bot. 261. — S. July, Aug.
Rocks above the fea on the fouth-weft coaft of Anglefea.

ATRIPLEX LACINIATA. Frojted Orache. — With. II.
274. — Eng. Bot. 165. — A. July, Aug.
Sea coaft on the S. W. of Anglefea.

ATRIPLEX LITTORALIS. Grafs Orache. — With. II.
27,5.— A. Aug.
South- weft coaft of Anglefea.

CLASS XXIII.
CRYPTOGAMIA. — MISCELLANEA.

LYCOPODIUM CLAVATUM. Common Club-Mofs. —
With. III. 756.— Eng. Bot. 224.— P. July, Aug.
Dry places on the Caernarvonfhire and Merionethshire
mountains, not uncommon.

LYCOPODIUM SELAGINOIDES. Prickly Club-Mofs. —
With. III. 757-— P. June— Sept.
Higher parts of the mountains about Llanberis, common.

LYCOPODIUM INUNDATUM. Marjh Club-Mofs. —
With. III. 758.— Eng. Bot. 233.— June— Sept.
Moift heaths and turfy bogs near Capel Curig, Caernar-
vonfhire.

LYCO-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 4,29

LYCOPODIUM SELAGO. Fir-leaved Club-Mofs — With.
III. 758— Eng. Hot. 233.— P. April— Oa.

Moid places on nearly all the mountains about Llanberis.
— On Snowdon and Cader Idris.

LYCOPODIUM ANNOTIN!JM. Weljk Club-Mofs — With.
III. 759. — June — Sept.

" I found this plant in great abundance, fix years ago, near
Llyn y Cwn, intermingled with Jziriperus Com. and,
although I have fought for it every fummerfince,in the
fame place, I have not met with a fingle fpecimen."

MR. GRIFFITH.

LYCOPODIUM ALPINUM. Alpine. Club-Mofs.-— With.
III. 759.— Eng. Bot. 234.— P. July— pa.
Mountains of Caernarvonshire, common.

PILULARIA GLOBULIFERA. Pillwort.— With. III.
759.— Eng. Bot. 521.— P. June— Sept.
In wet places about two miles from Mold, on the north
fide of the Chefter road, near Offa's Dyke.

ISOETES LACUSTRIS. QuillworL— With. III. 760.—
Bolt. 41 — P. May— Sept.

In Llyn y Cwn and Ffynnon Freeh, near Llanberis;—
in the latter pool, growing along with Subularia Aqua-
ticay in abundance.

CRYPTOGAMIA.— FiifcEs.

GPHIOGLOSSUM VULCATUM. Common Adders Tongue.
With. III. 761.— Eng. Bot. 108.— P. May, June,

Moift places in Maes y Porrh Wood, Anglefea.

Os-

A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

OSMTJXDA LUXARIA. Common Moonwort. — With.
III. 762. — Eng. Bot. 318. — P. May — July.
Old paftures in Anglefea.

OSMUXDA REGALIS. Flowering Fern. — With. III.
763. — Eng. Bot. 209. — P. June — Aug.

Watery places about Pont Aberglafllyn, near Bcddgelert.
— Pond fides in Anglefea.

ACROSTICUM SEPTENTRIONALE. Forked Mai den- hair,
-With. UK 764.— Bolt. 8.— P. July.

In fhTuresof thz rocks, near the fummit of Carnedd Llew-
elyn, a high mountain, not far from Nant Frangon,
betwixt Bangor and Capel Curig.

PTERIS CRISPA. Stone Fern. — With. III. 764.— Bolt.
/.• — Ofmunda Crifpa. — Hudf. 450. — P. Aug. Sept.
H igh rocks. — On Glyder ; — Snowdon ; — Cader Idris, £c.

Bi.ECHNUM SPICANT. Rough Splscnzuort. — With.
III. 765. — Bolt. 6. — OfmundaSpicant. — Hudf. 450.
P. July— Sept.

Moift heaths between Caernarvon and Llanberis.

AsuLENiUMScoLOPENDRiUM. Hart's Tongue. — With.
III. 766.— Bolt. 11.— P.— Aug. Sept.
In moift fhady places. — Conwy Caille. — Under the
rocks, amongft the bufhes by the river fide, near Caer-
narvon Caftle.

Variety 2. — Leaves curled, and jagged at the edge.
Near a petrifying fpring, by the fide of a rivulet, at the
bottom of Garn Dingle, near Denbigh.

ASPLENIUM CETERACH. Common Spleenwort. — With.
III. 767.— Bolt. 12.— P.May— Oa.

ClifM

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 43!

Clifts of moift rocks on the N. W. coafts of Caernarvon-
fhire and Anglefea.

ASPLENIUM TRICHOMANES. Common Maiden-hair. —
With. III.— Eng. Bot. 576.— Bolt, 13.— P. May

— oa.

Old walls, rocks, and fhady places, common.

ASPLENIUM VIRIDE. Green-ribbed Spleenwort. —
With. III. 768.— Bolt. 14.— P. June—Sept.

Moift recks about Tull Du, above Llyn Idwel ;— and on
Clogwyn du'r ArdJu.

ASPLENIUM MARINUM.. Sea Spleenwort. — With. LJ1.
769.— Eng. Bot. 392.— Bolt. 1,5.— P. June — Sept.
Rocks near the fea in Llanddwyn, near Abermenai, An-
glefea; and in Priefiholme iiland, near Beaumaris.

ASPLENIUM RUTA MURARIA. White Maiden-hair.
— With. III. 769. — Eng. Bot. 150. — Bolt. 16. — ,
P. June— Oa.

On old walls, not uncommon,

ASPLENIUM ADI ANTUM NIGRUM. Black Maiden-hair.
—With. III. 770.— Bolt. 17.— P. April— Oa.

Walls and fhady places about Caernarvon, very luxuri-
antly.

POLYPODIUM VULGARF..— -Var. CAMBRICUM. Weljh
Polypody.— With. III. 773.— P. June— Oa.

Near Gloddaeth, Caernarvonfhire.

POLYPODIUM LONCHITIS. Great Spleentuorf.—Wh}}.
III. 774.— P. May— Sept.

Clefts of rocks in the higher parts of Clogwyn y Gar-
nedd.

Not-

432 A TOUR ROUND NORTH WALES.

Notwithftanding the great refemblance that there is be-
twixt this plant, and thofe of Pclypodium Aculeatum, in
ayoungftate; the full grown fpecimens, fome of them
near half a yard long, in complete fructification, with
every appearance of old and tough plants, that I have
gathered amongft thefe high rocks, fully affure me that
it muft be a diftindl fpecies. W. JB.

FOLYPODIUM ILVENSE. — With. III. 778. — A. Alpi-
num. — Bolt. 42. — P. July — Sept.
Near the top of Clogwyn y Garnedd.

POLYPODIUMARVONICUM. — With. III. 774. — Acrof-
tlcum Ilvenfe. — Hudf. 451. — Bolt. 9? — P. July —
Sept.

On a moid black rock, almoft at the top of Clogwyn j
Gapnedd, facing the north- weft, direftly above the
lower lake.

\
POLYPODIUM PHEGOPTERIS. Wood Polypody. — With.

III. 775.— Bolt. 20.— P. June- Oa.

Clefts of moift rocks about Tull Du.
POLYPODIUM OREOPTERIS. Heath Polypody. — With.

III. 775-— P- Tkefipteris.—Roh. 22.— Hudf. 457.
— July— Oa.

Heaths between Caernarvon and Llanberis, plentifully.

POLYPODIUMTHELYPTERIS. MarJJi Polypody. — With.
III. 776. — Acrojlicum ThdypUris — Bolt. 43. P.

July— oa.

In a moift dell, at the foot of Snowdon, near Llanberis.

POLYPODIUM ACULEATUM. Prickly Polypody. —\Vi\h.
III. 777.— Bolt. 26.— P. June— Oa. '
Amongft the bufties on the rocks near Caernarvon Caftle.

POLY-

UNCOMMON WELSH PLANTS. 433

POLYPODIUM FiLix-FcEMiNA. Female Polypody. —
With. III. 778.— Bolt. 25.— P. June— Sept.
Lanes near Caernarvon.

POLYPODIUM CRISTATUM. Crejled Polypody. — With.
III. 778.— Bolt. 23.— P. June— Sept.
Shady places in Caernarvonfhire, not uncommon.

POLYPODIUM RH.ETICUM. Stone Polypody. — With,
III. 780. — Bolt. 45. — P. June — Sept.

Near the top of Glyder, on the fide that hangs over Llyn
Ogwen rocks, about Ffynnon Velen, near Llanberis.

CYATHEA FRAGILE. Cup-Fern. — Eng. Bot. — Poly-
podium Fragile. — With. III. 779. — Hudf. 459. — P.
June — Sept.

Mountains of Caernarvonftiire ; — about Tull Du ; — Clog-
wyn y Garnedd, &c.

CYATHEA INCISA. Laciniated Cub-Fern. — Eng. Bot.
163. — Polypodtum Tryjidum. — With. III. 779.

Rocks in Cwm Idwel.

HYMENOPHYLLUM TUNBRIDGENSE. Tunbndge Goldi-
locks.— Eng. Bot. 162. — Trickomanes Tunbridgen/e,
-With. III. 781.— Hudf. 461.— P. May— Oa.
In a lhady dell, very near Llanberis.

Variety 2. — Fructifications on naked fruitftalks.
Rocks near DolbadarnCaftle, in the vale of Llanberis*

END OF THE PLANTS,

VOL. ii. O o INDEX

( 435 )

INDEX.

ABER,

A. W- Page.

i.

cattle at, now demolished, i,

waterfall at, . i.

Aberconwy, . . i. 106

Aber Cuog, i. 154

Aberffraw, palace of the princes of North

Wales at, i . 256

Abergeley, . i. 103

Aberyftwyth, i . 474

Abren or Sabrina, ftory of, . i. 492

Album Monafterium, ..... 2. 23

Alleluia viftory, at Maes Garmon, near

Mold, account of, 2. 86

Alun," river, 2. 78

Amlwch, i. 274

Anecdote, i. 394

of Llewelyn the Great, . i. 360

Hugh Lloyd Cynfael, . i. 349

Sir John Owen, i. 394

> Sir Robert Pounderling, ... i. 101

O o 2 Anglefea,

INDEX.

Vol. Pag;.

Anglefca, account of, i. 2,50

invaded by the Romans, i. 259

, copper mines in, i. 276

« , natural and factitious produc-
tions of, - 2. 369

Aqueduci over the river Dee, at Pont y

Cyffyllte, in the vale of Llangollen, . . 2. 133

Arenig, 2. 164

Aran Benllyn, 2. ib,

Ar ran, river, i. 440

Arvonia, — i. 125

St. Afaph, defcription of, 1. 72

, cathedral of, it's hiftory, . . — i. ib.

, diocefe of, i. 78

• .mortuaries at, .... i. 79

Affach, a Welfli cuftom fo called, 2. 217

Auguftine the Monk contends with the

Monks of Bangor-is-coed, in Flintfhire, 2. 51

Avon Vawr, i. 438

B.

Back Gammon, etymology of, . 2. 222

Bagillt, 2. 324

Bala, 2. 156

— —Lake, 2. 1,59

, dreadful overflowings near, .. 2. 16,5

Bangor,orBangorVawr,inCaernarvonfhire, i. 133

Cathedral, it's hiftory, i. 135

•- • Caftle, now demolifhed, i . ib.

, diocefe of, i. 138

, houfe of Friars, preachers at, — i. 139

Bangor,

INDEX. 437

Vol. Pagt.

Bangor, temple erefted to Minerva at, i. 134

Bangor ferry, inn at i. 140

Bangor-is-coed, in Flintfliire, monaftery at,

now deftroyed, 2. 47

— , Monks of, flain, i. 3

• , Leland's account of, 2. 54

•' , anciently a Roman ftation, 2. ib.

Bardic degrees, 2. 260

Bards, hiftory of the, 2. *z$g

, reformation of, by GryfFydd ap Cynan, 2. 256

Barmouth, i. 432

Baron hill, near Beaumaris, ... i. 296

Barrows, ancient, mode of forming the, .. i. 431

Bafingwerk Abbey, . i. 63

, chapel of knight's

templar's at, i . 64

Caflle, now deftroyed, i. 66

Beaumaris, i. 296

1 • Caftle, defcription and hiftory of, i. ib.

Bay, 1. 302

Beavers formerly found in Wales, i. ,482

Beddgelert, i. 558

, priory at, now demolifhed, i. 362

, inn at, i . 363

Bere Caftle i. 189

Bettws Garmon, i . 3,5,5

Bettws y Coed, ... i. 329

St. Beuno, i. 55

Blajic-minfter, 2. 23

Blafting, method of, .» i. 288

Bodedern, ... _»„ . 2. 327

Bonover,

438 INDEX.

Vol. Pagt.

Bonover, or Beaumaris, i . 298

Bovium, or Bonium, the Roman ftation at

Bangor-is-coed, - 2. 54

Breiddin hills, in Montgomeryfhire, 2. 12

Bretton, 2. 323

Britifh Court removed from Aberffraw to

Segontium, i. 175

Bromfield and Yale, lordfliip of, 2. 67-72

Bwlch Glas, i. 245

Bwlch y Cac, i. 466

Bwlch y Saethau, i. 223

Bwlch Tyddiad, i. 424

Bwrth Arthur, ;. 2. 418

C.

Cader Ferwyn, _. 2.< ?

L GO

Cader Fronwen, ... 2. 171

Cader Idris, .. . .. i. 462

Caer Colhvyn, .... i. 411

Caer Cufteint, * i. 169

Caer Drewyn, 2. 147

Caer Gai, _ 2. 168

Caergwrle, caftle of, 2. 74

'anciently a Roman ftation, ... 2. 73

Caer Gybi, . i. 269

Caer Hen, i. 106

Caer Legion, i . 2

Caer Leon vawr ar ddyfr Dwy, i. ib.

Caernarvon, i. 145

~, Lord Lyttleton's account of, . . 2. 356

INDEX.

Vol. Page.

Caernarvon Caflle, defcription and hiftory of, i. 150

• Harbour, i. 149

. , Inn at, i. 143

— , privileges and police of, . i. 166

Caernarvonfhire, general account of, . i. 125

, Camden's defcription of, i. 200

Caer Rhun, i i. 106

— — Segont, i. 169

Sws, a Roman ftation, i. 486

Y Caer Wen 2. 147

Cain river, l. 454

Candida Ecclefia, ... 2. .23

Cantre'r Gwaellod, i. 428

Capel Curig, i. 316

• vale, and pools of, i. 317

.' , new Inn at, i . 318

Cardigan Bay, i. 429

Carneddau, mode of forming, i. 431

Carnedd David, . i. 208

Llewelyn, i. ib.

Carreg Hwva, caftle of, .. 2. 20

• y Big, near Dolwyddelan, j. 326

• Saeth, — . i. 422

Caftell Carreg Hwvaj 2. 20

Cidwm, , i. 357

Coch, .......... ..... 2. 7

Corndochon, «. 2. 167

— Crogen, 2. 37

Cymmer, 2. 452

.Dinas Bran, 2. 125

Dolbadarn, . _ i. 187

5 Caflell

44° INDEX.

I'd. Page.

Caftell Dolforwyn i. 488

Gerri, i. 99

Gronw Befyr o Benllyn, 2. 1^7

Kled Uryn yn Rhos, 2. 91

y Craig, i. 99

Ffailon, . i. ib.

Caftrum Legionis, i. 2

• Leonis, ... — _ 2." 64

Caunant Mawr, waterfall of, i. 189

Cefyn Caer, i . 473

— — — Creini, ... -. . 2. 147

y Caftell, 2. 13

Ceiriog, vale of, 2. 34

Chace, laws of the, 2. 219

, obje&s of the, 2. 218

Chefhire, made a county palatine, i. 5

Chefter, » i. 11

• , hiftory of, i . 3

Caftle, defcription and hiflory of, . i. 16

. Cathedral, i. 13

, ancient trade of, - . i. 7

manufactures, and maritime bufmefs at i. 18

, port of, i. 7

— — — - diocefe, of, , i. 14

• , Bifhop's palace at, i. 16

, churches at, * *• 1^

• , rows at, .. ..'.. . i • 12

.exchange, i- 21

.walls, i. 17

, Law Courts at, i • 20

« , police of, i • ^.

Chefter,

INDEX. 441

Vol. Page.

Chefter, R<5od-eye near, .- i . 2 1

• , antiquities at, i. 2

: — , Earldom of, firft created, i. j

, annexed to the crown, i. g

, parliaments held by the earls, at, - i. §

, battle of, _ i. 3

Chirk, 2. 33

caftle, defcription and hiftory of, ..2. 35

church, and monuments, 2. 34

, aqueduft at, ... 2. ib.

ClawddCoch, ,. i.{224

1 377
Clee Hill, 2. 344

Clogwyn du'r Arddu, i. 217

— y Garnedd, ............... i.

vale of, i.<

Coed Euloe, defeat of Henry II. at i. 38

Colefhill, or, Colful, i. 41

Conan ap Owen Gwynedd, interred in Con-

wy Abbey, i. 114

Conovius of the Romans, i. 104

Conovium, i. 107

Conflantius, father of Conflantine the great,

faid to have been buried at Segontium, i. 174

Conwy, i. 112

, Lord Lyttleton's defcription of, . . 2. 359

caftle, defcription and hiftory of, -^ i. 107

abbey, hiftory of, i. n$

, church and monuments at, i. 112

, Plas Mawr, at, i. 115

VOL. n. P p Conwy

INDEX.

Vol. Page.

Conwy river, i. 105

, formerly a pearl fiihery, i. 106

, waterfall on, i. 345

Conwy ferry, impofitions at, i. 105

Copper mines in Anglefea, i. 276

near Llanberis, »--- i. 190

Coracles, the kind of boats fo called, i. 470

Cors y Gedol, - i. 432

Corwen, .... 2. 146

Courtfhip, mode of, 2. *228

Cradle of Edward II. i. 164

Craig Breiddin, 2. . 113

Craig Eglwyfeg, - 2. 127

Craig y Cae, - i. 464

Craig y Mwyn, lead mine at, 2. 174

Creigiau Hysfa Bengam, .- 2. 391

Creigiau yr Eryri, i. 222

Crib y Ddefcil or Crib y Diftill, i. 223

Crib Coch, ._.. i. 224

Criccieth, village and caftle of, i. 396

Croes Ofwalt, 2. 23

Cromlech, the etymology and ufe of the i. 263

f 262

Cromlechs, iX 426

Crucis, vale of, ------ 2. 115

Crwth, Welfh inftrument fo called, 2. 280

Crwth Trithant, 2. 286

Cucking ftool at Montgomery, i. ^n

Curig, a Britifh faint, i. 316

Cuftoms, fmgular religious, 2. 236

Cwn?

INDEX. 443

Vol. Page.

Cwm Brwynog, ._... ... i. 217

Cwm Bychan, i . 421

Cwm Dyli, i: 373

Cwra Idwel, i . 209

Cwm Llan, *' i 381

Cwm Nancol, - - i . 426

Cylch Cyngrair, ----- i. 422

Cynfael, falls of the, i. 348

Cynllaeth, river, - i. 47 1

Cynwyd, - 2. 1,51

, waterfall near, - 2. ibt

D.

Daeardor, phenomenon fo called, ------- 2. 165

David, brother to Llewelyn, Prince of

North Wales, his fentence and death, - - i. 28

Dee, fource of the river, 2. 161

., fuperftitious veneration anciently paid '

to the, 2. 162

, new channel of, to Chefter, i. 18

Degrees in Bardifrn, 2. 261

Mufic, 2. 269,

Deheubarth, -- 2. 366

Denbigh, - 2. 91

Caftle, hiftory and defcription of, 2. 92

— -, -, houfe of Carmelite Friars at, 2. ic 2

Denbighfhire, general account of, 2. 90

Deva and Deunana, i. 2

Devil's bridge, near Beddgelert, - - i. 383

-, in Cardiganshire, i. 475

P p 2 Diganwy,

INDEX.

I ol. Page.

Diganwy, .................... . --- \. 123

Dinas Dinorrd wig, .. ....... ... _____ j. 312

Dinas Emrys, ...... . ........... ,_„ j. 363

Dinas Gortin, ..................... i. 437

Din-colyn ......................... i. 99

Diodlys, a cuftomary gift at the Welfh fu-

nerals, ..................... . ___ 2. *234

Diferth, .......................... i. 98

• - Caftle, hiftory of, ............ i. ib.

- Caftle hill, plants on, ......... i. 100

Dolbadarn Caftle, i.l87

Dolgelle, ____________ ....... . _____ i.

• -- , Dr. Fuller's enigmatical defcrip-

tion of, ----- ........... ___ » ____ i. 441

f452

• -- , waterfalls near, ............ i.< 453

f452
.< 453

145-1

Dol Guog, ........ ---- . ........ :. 2.

D61 Orcal, ... .................... i. 407

Dolwyddelan, ------- ... ..... ------ i. 326

' -- Caftle, hiftory of, --- „._;._ j . 320

Dovey, river, .......... ; ........... i. 470

Druidical circles, .................. i.J ^2*

ftone monuments, a method of

erefting them, i. 265

Druids, hiftory of the, 2. *2%g

' amulets, _** 2. 16

Drws Ardudwy, i. 42^

Dwyryd, river, J i. 353

Dyffryn Clwyd, or vale of Clwyd, i. 70

Eoeir-

INDEX.

E.

Vol. Page.

Edeirneon, vale of, 2. 151

Edward II. born in Caernarvon Caftle, . . i . i j 7

-, cradle of, i. 164

Eifteddfod, 2. 259

Elifeg, pillar of, 2. 118

Ellefmcre canal, 2. 33

Elwy, river, i. 82

Erddig, the feat of P. Yorke, Efq. 2. ^5

Euloe Caftle, _ i. 37

Evionedd, i. 32,5

F. . '

Farndon — 2. 64

Ffeftiniog, i . 347

, vale of, i. 3,53

• , Lord Lyttleton's defcrip-

tion of, . 2. 352

Ffynnon Freeh, ._ i. 243

Coo 9

Ffynnon Las, !•< . -*

\23o

Fifh, monocular, in Llyn y Cwn, i. 20^

Flint, i. 41

Caftle, defcription and hiftory of, .. i, 42

, gaol at, i. 4^

-, packets from, to Parkgate and Chefter, i. 41

Flintfhire, general account of, i. 23

Friars near Beaumaris, i . 303

Frwd y Pennant, a waterfall fo called, .. i. 481

Funerals, Welfh, * 2. ^231

, offerings at, 2. ^233

Games,

INDEX,

G.

Vol. Page.

Games, Welfh, ...... ____ _ ........ 2. 221

Garn> ---- ....................... 2. 375

Garn dingle, ...................... 2. 373

Garre^ wen, .. ............ _ ....... 2. 377

Giraldus Cambrenfis, ............... 2. 198

plan y-dwr, ___ ............ ..... ., 2. 332

Glas Llyn, ....................... i. 481

Gleiniau Nadroedd, .... ..... ------- 2. 15

Glennach, .............. . ........ i . 306

Glifleg, vale of, ...... _. ....... ____ 2. 115

Gloddaeth, ______ _______ . ___ . ____ i. 122

Glyderbach, ^l 2°*

\3l6

Glyder vawr, afcent to the furnmit of, .. i. 203

-- , plants near, ___ . ........ i . 212

Glyndwr, Owen, account of, ........ 2. 139

Glyn Dyfrdwy, ................... 2. 137

Gorfeddau, .... .................. i. 421

Gors y Cafieg, ...... . ............ . 2. 394

Gresford, ........................ 2. 65

Guilsfield, ..... _________ _______ ._ 2. 12

Gwern Einion, .................... i. 426

Gwydir woods and houfe, i.J 331

1334

Gwynant, ...... , ................. i.

Gwyndy, ........................ i.

Gw>'nedd> '- ...................... 2-

Gwyniadd, a fpecies of alpine fifh, ____ 2. 1,59
Gwyfanney, ...................... 2. 89

Hal kin,

INDEX. 447

H.

Vol. Page.

Halkin, .......................... 2. 336

Hawarden, ....... - ....... . ........ i. 23

Harlech, ......................... i. 408

- -- caftle, description and hiftory of, . i. ib.
Harp, account of the, . ......... . ..... . 2. 272

- , ancient Trim one, account of, ------ 2. 273

- , Dafydd ap Gwillym's fingular abufe of

the leathern, ................... 2. 275

Hawarden, ........................ i . 23

- caftle, defcription and hiftory of, i. 24
Hengwrt, ........ ................ 2. 333

Henllan, ..... ---- ........ _________ 2. 376

Henry II. defeated by the Welfli at Coed

Euloe, .......... _._.. --------- i. 38

Henry IV. of Germany, faid to have retired
unknown to Chefter, and to have died

there, ......................... j. n

Holt, ............................ 2. 63

- caftle, defcription and hiftory of, ____ 2. 65

Hopedale, .................. ...... 2. 75

Holyhead, ........... * ............ . i. 269

- churchyard and church, ...... i. 270

- - , anciently a college at, . _____ . i. 271

- , womenprohibitedfromgoingthere

in the reign of William II .......... I. 273

- --- — , the ftation of the Irifh packets, . i. 270

- , ifland, .......... . ....... i. 273

Holywell i. 52

Holy well,

INDEX.

Holywell, Wenefrede's Well at, ....... i. 53

• - , manufactures at, ............ 1. 52

- , fingular contrivance to call peo-

ple to prayers at, ............. ---- 1 . 52

Sir Howel y Fwyall, and his ax, theftory of, i. 398

Hunting, ancient Welfh method of, ...... 2. 218

-- , laws of, ................... 2. 219

Hypocauft, at Chefter, ............ , — i. 3

I.

Idvval, a young prince, the fon of Owen

Gwynedd, murdered by Nefydd Hardd, i. 209
Jeffry of Monmouth, ................ i. 74

f 49

112

Infcriptions, . ., ................... iX 169

257
L34*

r 60
6l

Inys Dowyll, i. 2,52

jorwerth Drwndwn, i. 323

Ireland, pafiage to from Holyhead, i. 270

Ifland, floating, i. 35^

Jumpers, a feft of Calviniftical Methodifls,

fo called, i. 176

K.

Kemmer Abbey, i. 445

Kentigern, founds the cathedral of St. Afaph, i. 73

Kinmael, 2. 325

Knockers in mines, a fuppofed kind of in-

vifible beings, account of, •- - 2. 230

Lacy,

INDEX. 449

Vol. Page.

Lacy, Roger, relieves the Caftle of Rhydd-

lan, when attacked by the Welfh, - — i. 89

Language, Welfh account of, — — 2. 291

Lavan fands, — i. 302

Legaceafter, or, Legancefter, — — i. , 2

Llanaber, — i. 432

Llanbedirr I. 430

Llanberis, i. 190

, vale of, i. 183

, lakes of, — • — > . i . 1 86

, waterfall near, — i. 189

, old caftle near, — i. 187

, fmgular pafs near, — — i. 214

, Inns and guide at, 1§ I

church, and curate of, — i. / J9<5

1*96

Llandaniel, — 2. 327

Llanddiniolen, i. 312

Llanddwyn, — 2. 397

Llanderfel, 2. 152

Llandidno, • — 2. 381

Llandinam, — • — 2. 334

Llandrillo, — 2. 152

"Llandulas, — — - i. 104

Llandwrog, — 2. 381

Llandwye, — — , — 2. 332

Llandygai, — ^_ — i. 132

Llandyfilio, — — 2. 137

Llanegweft, or, Valle Crucis Abbey, — 2. 119

Llanelian, — . . i. 291

, fuperftitious cuilom at, — i. 293
VoL- «• Q q Llan-

45°

Vol. Ttst.

Llanelltyd, — — — — — J- 439

Llan Elwy, or, St. Afaph, — i. 72

Llanfachredd, — — 2. 333

Llanfaelog, — — 2. 387

Llanfaglan church, — 2. 38,5

Llanfair, — / — — i. 408

Llanfawr, — 2. 1,53

Llangedwin, — 2. 179

, -- , vale of, 2. ib.

Llangefni, i-

Llangollen, — 2. 116

. -- , vale of, — 2. 132

- - • --- , aquedu& in, — — 2- 133
Llangower, — 2. 164
Llangynog, 2. 172

- , vale of, r.} — 2. ib.
_ - -, flate works at, — 2. 173

- - , lead mines near, — 2. 174
Llanidan, 2. 373
Llanrhaiadr, near Denbigh, — 2. 106
. - r-=-- - yn Mochnant, 2, 176
Llanrug, — 2. 336
Llanrwft, i. 338
. -- , church and chapel of, — — i. ib.
. -- , bridge, i. 336

- -, vale of, i. 330
Llanfannan, — — — 2. 372
Llan St. Siors, 2. 325
Llan tec wyn, ; — . i. 4°7
Llanvaes, — • — i. 3°3

- -- , battle at, — i. 3°5

Llan-

INDEX. 451

Vol.

Page.

Llanvihangel, in Anglefea, — —

2.

327

Llanwchllyn,

2.

164

Llanyblodwell, •

'2.

179

Llanycil,

2.

157

Llanydloes, •

1.

483

1.

327

2.

13

Hill

'2.

14

B.

16

^~ , 1XI11C UUttlllCS eltj "

svntt rt 11 1 1 1 p c 21 rt /i -fL- r* 1 r*

*

14

ff.

ib.

" C T\

^^y 1 dllalila \JL cL I vUilicUI

mine there,

2.

ib.

Lie Herbert, •

1.

416

1.

("217

Llewelyn the great, anecdote of, • •

1.

360

Lloyd Hutjh Cvnfiel anecdote of

I.

349

1.

327

l.

ib.

Llyder Vach,

1.

204

Vawr,

1.

ib.

Llyfni river, •-

'2.

381

Llynach, •

1.

306

Llyn Aled,

2.

372

Coch,

1.

230

Conwy, .

1.

329

Cwellyn,

it

356

• Du'r Arddu, under Clogwyn du?r Arddu

i.

217

Ffynnon y Gwas, — —

a.

248

Glas,

'i,

230

Q q 2

Llyn

INDEX.

Vol.

1.

1.
1.
1.
1.
I.
I.
1.

2.
I.
I.

I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
I.
2.
2.

.373
208

^211
244

459
230

316

474
407
ib.

159

458
ib.

358
464
204

212
422
244

372

357
230
482

153

344

TJcha

Tegid,

—••——- traditions concerning

V Pirlrr

-•• •• V^tlC,
Turn

nia«

yr Avange,
Llywarch Hen, —
Ludlow, —

M.

Machynlleth — I. 471

Madoc, the two fons of, murdered by their
guardians, Roger Mortimer, and John
Earl Warren, 2. 66

Maelgwyn Gwynedd, founds the cathedral

of Bangor, i. 135

Meanan,

INDEX. 453

Vol. Pagtl

Meanan, I . 344

Maentwrog, I. 403

-- , vale of, i.

Maes Garmon, Alleluia viftory at, — 2. 86

- Glas, or Bafingwerk Monaftiy, i. 63

- Hir, near Ofweflry, — 2. 23

- Mawr Gad, or, Maes Hir Gad, in
Anglefea, i. 258

Maglona, a Roman ftation, i. 472

Margaret Uch Evan, anecdotes of i. 201

Mathraval, 2. 7

Maw, or, Mawddach, river, — \A 43"

I 454

Meini Gwyr, — I. 430

Mephitic vopour, near Harlech, i. 418

Meredydd ap Jevan, account of, i. 324

Merionethfhire, general account of, — i. 384

Merlin Emrys, or, Ambrofius, the prophet, i. 367

Milker Gerig, — 2. 172
Minerva, a temple creeled to, Bangor in

Caernarvonshire, _ I. \n*
Minftrels of Chefliire, government of,
granted by charter, from the Earl of

Chefter, to Roger Lacy, — i. 90

Mochras, ^_ i. 428

Moel Eilir, _ T> ^

- Gwdion, 2. 3,54

- Hebog, 2. ib.

- y Don Ferry, battle at, — i . 260
--- Golfa, 2. 13
Mold, __ 2. 80
-- caftle, now doflroyed, hiltory of, — 2, 82

Mold,

INDEX.

Vol. Pap.

Mold, church and monuments, 2. 80

M6n, or, Mona, !. 2r2

Monach, river, I. ^^g
Monks, J 200 (lain at the battle of Chefter,

by command of Ethelfrid, I. 3

Mons Alms, or Mold, — 2. 83

Gomerici, or Montgomery, — I. 400

Montford bridge, 2.

Montgomery, j.

, Lord Lyttleton's account of, 2. 346

caftle, defcription and hiftory of, i. 300

• church, and monuments, — i. 407

Momgomeryfhire, general account of, — i. 471

Morfa Bychan, r<>

Rhyddlan, battle at, -^- j.

, an air fo called, for which

fee fpecimens of mufic, — I.

Mortuaries, fingular, at St. Afaph, i.

MurCaftell, t.

Mufic, Welfli, character of, 2. 280

, degrees in, 2. 2(52

Mynydd Moel, i.

• Mawr, j.

Parys, a. 274

Myrddin ap Morvryn, or Myrddin Wyllt, i. 370
Emrys, i. ^67

N.

Nanney, near Dolgelle, — i. 440

Nantberis, or the vale of Llanberis, — i. 183

Nant Bwlch yr Kiarn, ^ — — 2. 379

J^ant Colwyn, — j. ^^g

Nant

INDEX. .' 455

V<1. Page.

Nant Frangon, i. 312

• • , account of the falling of a

rock in, i. 313

Mill, Waterfall at, i. 335

y Bele, 2. 46

Moch, 2. 324

Nennius, the hiftorian, — 2. 50

NeflclifFe, 2. 180
New Bridge between Chirk, and Ruabon,

fine view at, 2. 41

Newtown, i. 487

Northop, — — -— -i. 40

O.

Offa's Dyke, , i. 68

, ufe of, — 2. 17

, punifhment of the Wellh for

paffing it, in the time of Harold, — 2. 1 8

Ogo, in Llanymynech hill, 2. 14

Ogwen, river, i. ^13

Okely Park, 2. 344

Orme's Head, i. 295
Ofwald, King of Northumberland, flain in

642, at Ofweflry, 2. 22

OfwaH's well at Ofweftry, — 2. 30

Ofweftry, — 2. 2t

— = Caftle, now deftroyed, hiftory of, 2. 26

— , houfe of Induftry, at, 2. 21

, battle at, in 642, 2. 22

, Leland's account of, 2. 30

-, Churchyard's account of, — • 2. 32

Ova Anguineum, of Pliny, 2. 16

Overton

INDEX.

Vol. P^f.

f-\

2. 47

*• 394

2. 139

2. ib.

p.

2. 154

1. 187

Parys mountain,

1. 19

Pafs, romantic, near Llanberis,

I. 2I5

Pearl fifhery, in the river Conwy, •

i. 106

Pearl mufcle dcfcnption of

i. ib.

Pelagius, the Monk, -,

2. £0

Penallt, —

*• 473

2. 182

J- 347

Penmaen bach,

2. 308

I\/lT«iT«- f\a /Vt «-«f»i-iy~»«-» nC

I. 125

/^^.«.,,l-»m-.«^^"J« A r

I. 126

I. 129

Rhn°

1. 104

1. 306

, well, and crofs near, ,

13°7
»• 394

Pennard Halawg, —

i. 23

Penrhyn,

i. 132

Pen y Cader,

i . 466

- Llan, _

2. 47

Pen-y-ftrywad, — —

i. 486

Pibcorn,

INDEX. 457

Vol. Page.

Pibcorn, the Welfh mufical inftruraent fo

called, account of, 2. 286

Pig y Fran, 2, 384

Pimblemere, 2. 159

Piftyll Rhaiadr, • 2. 177

, Lord Lyttleton's defcrip-

tion of, — 2. 349

Piftyll y Cain, i. 455

Plants, Welfh, lift of, 2. 371

growing on Diferth caftle hill, i* 100

near Llyn y Cwn,Tull du,

and Glyder Vawr, — « — i. 212

Plas Mawr, at Conwy, i.

Plas Newydd, in Anglefea, — i. <

, cromlechs at, • — i. 262

Plas Newydd, near Llangollen, 2. 117

Plas Teg, — — 2. 80

Plas y Nant, — . — 2. 330

Plynlimmon, •*— i. 480

Pont Aberglafllyn, ~~- i. 383

-.-, falrnon leap at, i. 386

Pont-ar-Monach, -r— i. 476

Pont Cynwyd, 2. 170

Pont Mwnwg y Llyn, near Bala, — — 2. 162

Pont y Cyflyllte, aqueduft at, — 2. 133

Pont y Glyn, near Corwen, — 2. 149

Pont y Pair, — I. 327

PontyPandy, — j. 345

Pool Caftle, — _- — 2. 7
VOL. ii. R r Pool

INDEX.

Pool Ceris, •— • — — »«•. i.

Porthaethwy, — I.

Pounderling, Sir Robert, anecdote of, — i.

Powis Caftle, — 2.

• : , Lord Lyttleton's defcription of, 2.

Powifland, 2.

Praeftol, or Prieftholme, — i.

Preflatyn, 2.

Prieftholme, i.

Puffin auk, account of the, i.

Pulpit Hugh Llyd Cynfael, near Ffeftiniog, i.

Pwl y Gelanedd, — 2.

Pwl y Gorfog, 2.

Q-

Queen Hope, — 2, 77
R.

Records of Wales, where anciently kept. i. 113

Rhaiadr, river, — — 2. 36

Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, — — i. 373

Rhaiadr Cynwyd, — — — — 2. 153

Rhaiadr du, near Dolgelle, — — 1. 452

Rhaiadr du, near Tanybwlch, — — i. 404

Rhaiadr y Craig Llwyd, — i. 345

Rhaiadr Mawddach, i. 454

Rhaiadr y Wenol, — — l. 327

Rhiedd, in Anglefea, — — I. 2,58

Rhil Marfh, — — 2. 376

Rhiwedog, — — 2. 170

Rhual, — — — 2. 86

Rhyddlan, — — — i. 82

Rhyddlan

INDEX. 459

Vol. Page.

Rhyddlan Cattle, defcription and hiflory of, i. 84

; Marfh, I. ' 83

• Port of, — i. ib.

Franchife, — i. 96

, houfe of Black Friars at, i. ib.

-, ftatute of, i. 93

, parliament held at, by Edward I. I. 93

, Edward the firft Prince of Wales

proclaimed here, I. 94

Rhyd Marfh, 2. 372

Rhydol, river,

Richard II. betrayed to the Duke of Lancaf-

ter at Flint, i., 45

Road, new, from Bangor ferry to Llanrwft, i. 332

Roman road from Dinas Dinlle, — I. 169

Roman mines in Llanymynech hill, — 2. 14

Roman method of building, I. 170

Rood-eye near Chefter, — I. 21

Roflet Green, 2. 381
Rowlands, the author of Mona Antiqua Ref-

taurata, infcription on, — I. 257

Rows at Chefter, — i. 12

Ruabon, — — 2. 42

church and monuments, — 2. 43

Ruthin» —"- • •« 2. 1 08

Caftle, defcription and hiftory of, 2. 109

S.

Sacheverel, Dr. 2.

Salmon leap and fifhery at Pont Aberglafllyn, i.

Saltney, ' I.

Rra

460 INDEX.

Vol. Page.

I. 428
I. 320

I. 487

«. 311

i. 16

i. 8

2. 182

I. 511
I. 169

I. IJO

I. 1/4

i. 7°

i. 481

2. l8l
2. 184
2. 185
2. 187

2. ib.

2. 190
2. 189

,/i88
2'\'90

2. 186

2. ib.

2. 187
2. 189

2. ib.

1. IOO

I. 149

Slates,

Sarn Sws, or Sarn Swfan, a Roman road,
Saxon alphabet properly belonging to the

Saxon columns and arches, curious fpeci-
mens of, in St. John's Church, Chefter,
Saxon flave trade — * >••

Scrobbes Byrig, the Saxon Shrewsbury,
Scolding women, punimment for, at Mont-

gomery, •- • •
Segontium, the ancient Roman city, —

Seteia Portus, •- »

Spvprn fnnrrp of tfip rnrpr — i •

_ _, _._ P-iAl/r ViiAriT-ir nf

Siamber-Wen, near Difcrth, « —
Slates, dangerous mode of conveying them
down te the mountains near Llanberis,

INDEX.

Vol. PaSt.
Slates, Still more dangerous one at Llangwy-

nog, 2. 173

Slave trade anciently carried on in this king-
dom, I. 7
Snowdon, excurfion to the fummit of, from
Dolbadarn Caflle, by a track eafier than
from any other place, — I. 216

, excurfion to the fummit of, from

Llanberis, I. 243

• , excurfion to the fummit of, from

Bettws, i. 247

, excurfion to the fummit of, from

Beddgelert, I. 375

, inftru&ions for the traveller up, i. 234

, view from the fummit of, — i. 224

' , Mr. Pennant's defcription of, — i. 222

, botanical parts of, i. 230

formerly a royal foreft, — I. 233

the Parnaflus of the Britons, i. 234

, fonnet on, — I. 229

Caftle, i. 116

Spinfter, origin of the term, — — I. 211

Strat Marchel, or Strata Marcel la Abbey 2. IZ

Superftitions of the Welfh, 2. 229

Sweating ficknefs, — • — 2. 194

St. Syrioh i. 306

T.

Talieflin, the Welfh Bard, the fepulchre of, i. 474

Tanat, river, 2. 177

Tany Bwlch, i. 402

Tommen

Vol. tare.

Tommen y Bala, — — — 2. 157

Tominen y Mur, • I. 404

Tower near Mold, 2. 373

Traeth Mawr, • — I. 393

Traeth Bach, — I. ib.
Treafon, the prefent fentence for, firft pro-
nounced on David, brother to Llewelyn^

Prince of North Wales, — i. 28

Treboeth, — — • — I. 7

Trefarthen/ • 2. 381

Trefriew, near Llanrwft, — i. 343

Tre-newydd, (Newtown,) — — i. 487

Tre-valdwyn, (Montgomery,) i. 499

Trevor-hall, — - — 2. 133

Y Trivaen, — — i. 314

Trum y Sarn, — 2. 171

Tryftiog, river, — — 3. 152

Tull du, near Llanberist — i. 210

, cataraft at, — — i, ib.

, plants near, — I. 212

Twr Bronvven, — — — i. 410

Twrch, river, dreadful overflowing of, 2. 165

, vale of, 2. 164

Twr y Silod in Rhyddlan Cattle, i. 85

U.

Uriconium of the Romans ; — — 2. i8t

Valle Crucis Abbey, 2. no)

Y Vaner Abbey, — i. 445

Veftibules, ufe ot the ancient. — - — I. li

Viftoria Alleluiatica, account of, — 2. 87

Virnwy, river, — 2. 13

Vreiddiiij

INDEX.

Vol. Page,.

Vreiddin, or Breiddin hills, — 2, 12

Vreken Caefter of the Saxons, «-*• 2. 181

W.

Wales, ancient divifion of, — 2. 366

- , the infant fon of Edward I. firft de-

clared prince of, « — I. 94

Waterfall at Tull du, near Llanbens, j. 210

at Aber, I. ^31

Caunant Mawr, near Llanberis, I. 189

— on the river Llugwy, I. 327

— on the river Conwy, I. 345
on the Cynfael, — - I. 348

— at Mant Mill, — I. 355
-, called Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, i. 373

- , called Rhaiadr Du, near Tan-y-
bwlch, — — l".

- , called Rhaiadr Du, near Dolgelle, I,

called Rhaiadr y Mawddach, I.

, Piftyll y Cain, — I.

near Cader Idris, — l*A..^fl

1469

near Llyn Pen Rhaiadr, — i. 474,

- , Frwyd y Pennant, -r- i. 481

- , near Newtown, I. 487
— — — at Pont y Glyn, near Corwen, 2, 149

- — Rhaiadr Cynwyd, near Corwen, 2. 152
_, i .. - Piftyll Rhaiadr, 2. 1.77
Wat's dyke, — i, 67
Wattftay, now Wynnjlay, — 2. 46
Weddings, Welfh, — "— • 2, *23»
St. Werburgh, (hrine of, at Chefter, I, 14
\yelfh alphabet, — — 2. 292

Welfh

INDEX.

1. el. Page.

Welfh mode of courtfhip, 2.
— —- weddings, 2.
funerals, — ! g.

games, — • — 2. 221

• fuperflitions, — 2. 229

, fingular religious cuftoms of the, 2. 236

, ancient manners of the, — • 2. 197

, modern manners of the, — 2. 223

:, character of, < — 2. 288

language, account of the, 2. 29!

and Hebrew languages' compared, 2. 307

and Greek languages compared, 2,. 310

laws, extracts from the ancient, 2. 205

meafures, 2. 366

— pedigree, I. 424

r. make their final acknowledgment to

the fovereignty of England, at Chel1eif

in 1300, i. g

Welfh Pool, — 2. 2

Wenefrede's well and chapel at Holywell, i. ^3

St. Wenefrede, legend of, l. ^5

White-minfter, or Ofweftry, - •>. -/*
Whjtford, a Roman Pharos in the parif :

Wnion, river, , ro<* *

I. o^

Wolves in North Wales killed by Prince

Idwal, , -.

Wrexham, -^- '^\' o

church and monuments, 2. 57

fair, — -. 61

Wrightlefham, or Wrightefham, the Saxon

Wrexham, 2. 56

Wye,

INDEX. 4

Wye, river, the fource of, i.
Wynnftay, the feat of Sir Watkin Williams

Wynnej — 2* 44

Y.

V Caer Wen, __ 2. 147

Yew trees, antiquity ofj in church-yards, 2. 48

Ynys Ligod. — — i. 310

Ynys Seiriolj — — 14 307

Ynys Von, -- — . j. 2,52

Ynys y Brawd, — l. 437

Ynys y Cedeirn, - it 252
Yr eryr, a difeafe fo called, how faid to be

cured, — 2. 238

YrWyddfa, — — i. 217

Yr Wyddgrug, (Mold.) — 2. 83

Y Vaner Abbey, near Dolgelle, — i. 445

ERRATA TO VOL. II.

near , ^material errata are printed ia (mall capital*

a* '"' •

. .Jue read chief.
*or Marchle read MarcM.

, fcatfn* read Fauftina.
,3. . „ .{ I . ^

• «. *o* MMroedd read tfadrocdd.

16. i. for oia read ewi.
29- 7-o For hence read fAfncc.
35- 4. Leave out in the year 1709.
*«. 9. For ««i read «rw.
65. 15. For wat read w«rf.

VOL. in o .

ERRATA.

f*et. Line.

102. 3. For PRESENT read ANCIENT.

105. 10. For FROM DENBIGH TO WHJTCHURCU, read To Dh.s-

BIGH FROM WHITCUURCH.
114. 17. For £luyd read Clwjd,
i 29. 7. For Ga/e read Kafe.
J34« 5- For COUNTY read COUNTRY*
135< 4' For c«ro« read ca/w.
— — 18. For tolerable read tolerably.
176. 21. For £tu« read £7«.
197. 20. For manner read manners.
230. 3. For <?r><t/ read aerial,
*235- 6. For tkatjilial read f/wf cvenjilial.

- 19. For frofo read broken.

*a37- 4- Leave out the word in.
. . 21. For entire read enfrf.
253. 24. For CORDS read COWLS.
381. The bridge of the Crwth is wrong: the end, inftcid of

being Mow, fhould have been above the hole.
483. In the fecond line of mufic, the firft note fliould be on A,

not C; and in the (econd direction, lor fourth icadjift/t.
302. 8. For our read one.

323. 23. For Teur read Town, and leave out the comma.
33*- 38« F°r thcfcmicolon after guineas infert a comma; and, in the

next line, for do read does.
333. 22< BLUE LION is improper in Italics.
— 24. For CADER IDRIS. — 4 MILES DISTANT, SEE, &c. read

CADEK. IDRIS, 4 MIIEI- DISTANT. — SEE, &c.
399. 3. For the ( ;) infert a (,) ; and in line 4, infert a period after

inacceflible rocks.

414. 24. For Flexandria read Hexandria.
429. 25. For Felices read /Y/ic«.

%* The claffes of the plants beginning at Decandria are all num-
bered wrong.— Some other errors in the catalogue, of lefs confc-
quence, are not noticed.

FINIS.

Speedily will be publiihcd,
IN THREE VOLUMES OCTAVO,

GENERAL HISTORY OF MUSIC,

With Anedotes of Musical Men,

FROM

THE TIME OF PYTHAGORAS NEARLY TO THE PRESENT,

?ln& Critical <®6£ettoation# on tbeir JBriting#

COMPILED FROM THE WORKS Or

SIR JOHN HAWKINS, DR. BURNEY, AND OTHERS.

• ••••••@O»«««»""

BY THE REV. W. BINGLEY, A.B. F.L.S.
t. gem'* Coflege,

EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS AND MUSIC.

" The man that hath not music in his soul,
And is not mov'd with concord of sweet sounds,
Is fit for treasons, stratagems, and spoils;
The motion* of his spirit are dull at night,
And his affections dark as Erebus:
Let no such man be trusted." SHAKSPIEE.

BOOKS printed and fold by E. WIILIAMS, Bookfeller to the
Duke and Duchefs of York, and Succefforto the late Mr. BLAMIRE,
No. n, §.trand, near Charing Crofs, London.

This Day is published, in One Volume 8vo. ornamented with
Plates, beautifully coloured and hot-prcffed, price IDS. 6d. in
Boards; or in the common Way, and Plates uncoloured, 95.

THECAMBRIANREGISTER,fortheYeari7g6;Vol.II.
Containing the Ancient Divifions of Britain, and the Names of
the various Tribes by whom it was inhabited; Geoffery of Mon-
mouth's Hiftory, in Welfti, with a Tranflation ; a camprehcnfive HH-
tory of Pembrokeshire, by George Owen, Lord of Kernes, the fame
that is referred to, and cited by the learned BiQiop Gibfon, in his Edi-
tion of Camden's Britannica; Biographical Account of the celebrated
Antiquary, Lewis Morris, and other eminent Men; Account of
Religious Houfes of Wales; Monafteries, Abbeys, and Druidical
Altars in Anglefey ; Ancient Practice of Phyfic ; Ancient Laws;
Parochial Hiftory; Topography; prefent State of the Shipping in
Wales ; Critical Remarks on modern Welfh Tours; Correfpondeiice
of eminent Men; Welfti Poetry, with Tranflation* ; with many
other Curious and Interceding Accounts, never published before,
which will prove a confiderable Acquifition to the Archeology of
this Country, and throw great Light on Hritilh Affairs; particularly
the Documents of General and Local Hiftory; Ancient Cuiloms
and Manners; .Biography, Philology, &c. with numerous Motes
and Illuftrations by the Editor.

Where may be had, the CAMBRIAN REGISTER, for 1795;
Vol. I. price ios. 6d. Hot-prcffid, and Coloured Plates; or 9^. in
the common >Vay.

468 BOOKS PRINTED AND SOLD BY E.WILLIAMS.

WELSH AND ENGLISH DICTIONARY, compiled front
the Laws, Hiftory, Poetry, Bardifm, Proverbs', and other Monu-
ments of the Knowledge and Learning of the Ancient Britonc.
With numerous and feleft Quotations. By WILLIAM OWEN,
F. S. A. Royal Oftavo. Parts i, 2, 3, and 4. Boards, 75. each.

I fart 5 and 6, which is in great Forwardnefs, will complete this va-

\ luable Work.

The HEROIC ELEGIES, and other Pieces, of LLYWARCH HEN,
Prince of the Cumbrian Britons, with a Literal Tranflation. By
WILLIAM OWEN, F.S. A. 8vo. Boards, 73.

WOTTON's LEGES \VALLICJE; or the Laws of Prince
HOWEJ.L DDA. Folio, Large Paper,_new and elegant, 3.1. zs

WELSH BIBLE, Large Print, Folio, neatly Bound, new, al. as.
. -, 8vo. Large Print, neat, 73. 6d.

WELSH COMMON PRAYER, Large Print, 8vo. with above
50 Fine Plates, new, and elegantly bound.

EVANS'S SPECIMENS of the POETRY of the WELSH
BARDS. 410. new. 6s. in Boards.

Another Copy, Half-bound, 8s. 6d.

WARRINGTON'» HISTORY OF WALES, a voli. 8ro.
Boards, izs.

EVANS's MAP OF NORTH WALES, from aflual Survey. O«
One large Sheet, l8s.

Another Copy, coloured and folded in a Cafe for the Pockcb, il.-is*

WELSH BIBLE, fmall Pocket Size, new and neat, 7*. 6d.
•'• "• • ' • •, another Copy, ?n Boards, 6s.

FOLEY's PRACTICED the COURT OF GREAT SESSIONS
in SOUTH WALES. 8vo. 5*. Boards.

SELECT COLLECTION of WELSH AIRS, MARCHES,
A SONGS, &c. with the Mulic engraved. New, as. 6d.

RUDD'» SERMONS on Practical Subjefts. a vols. 8vo. Board?,

75. 6d.

Thefe Sermons are Specimens of fine Composition, plain and prac-
tical, and are particularly adapted for Country Congregations,
and have met with confidcrable Applaufe from the Public.

SYMMONS's SERMONS, 8vo. 6s. Board*.

WALTERS's ENGLISH -WELSH DICTIONARY, complete,
•A In 410. new and fcarce, al. i2s. 6d.

Befides the Articles in this Lift, a good affortment of the beft mo-
dern Books are always kept ready bound ; and particularly tkofe re-
lative to the Hiftory, Language, and Antiquities of Wales, may be
. here met with in the greateft Variety.

Some beautiful engraved Views of the moft Romantic Ptrts of
North Walesj coloured from Nature, are to be feen as above.

PRINTED BY T, RICK A BY, PETERBOR9tfGH-COVRT»

V.

"-! 6-
**

,

«*-cv.

.

- / L~h^

-J, A/V ^^

AC

< ^ ^

# 0 9 8

University of California

SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY

305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388

LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388

Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed.

m

Form L9-25m-8,*<H»o^ ;•*•*•*

260 8

A 001436900 3