“oa, Fe to: Z OF Pigeons and Bantams BY FRANK W. DeELANCEY ILLUSTRATED 1g1o PUBLISHED BY ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY SELLERSVILLE, PA. Publishers of THE POULTRY ITEM FRANK W, DELANCEY Editor and Advertising Manager JOHN L. PURPLE Associate Editor and Circulation Manager E. E. ALTHOUSE President and General Manager W. S, SCHLICHTER Secretary and Treasurer | COPYRIGHTED BY THE ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY 1910 ‘@cLa269174. SF 465 .D3 Copy 1 OI eI SS: PART I.—PIGEONS. PAGE PLT TCO. 0) GUILE SUTIN GT Vases hin te redacted Ghd nyedeie ene cs) G eo cie s 06. hss 6, 0, oie a iastory.ano Originvot the Dilerent- Varieties’. . 6... cscs as cee 7 UT AUR SUG Lee Ae COUN CUO scck.erci ters teteretece pets leis! cians elenele «etrele else 7 MOCKEON Om MTeCGGiINe? ELOUSESig ccc akc cudevs- cot ells. + 2] one e-slsle/ec, 02-0 ap. 0 14 Fea WRLC MIVESL NG etrn obec aun yeuebensuerdine to cb cite celtewetraulevapet renal a, clients, «| alunets © e.0 sip oiys aly Biowate Loli Males front WeMales arc a cneperatars) « leletetats.jo sei es: eves oie e = % 19 ELI WRIMOE VION StOwE GOO a a tastrcckaiahstena hitter Oyetideat ce cuehe koe oieieleab ale ate, e> 20 UREA TAL Om MOCO fe raketen te, caeteds lua sash oar ata aye Cmatice ea" arclate shale. te. ¢ eveyalape a wa 21 SEV BLES Ol PMCOUIN Err mcnceckcire eis ensiatete ave chacet ceivetsbepatereietae ais oc stv set ea.s 30 er Lysate; OTAAC UIST EL ORVCT onc: nishenc ates cuehevadele ee" erehale e 8's es w7eiel s 30 hrainineatnee Lily imen OF tRACINE HOME? se fc we < choker ate cw ce sie s 6 eels e 34 UNEP Coe SERN EME LOV ENFERM Nea te Tors os Cua weioc ave aneue tenets. shel ae, Siabalie ove oe sareve 36 VACODINS es. seek OO foie Sroperriin ie. sieiel ev. ss stiore anes la see anjaig shane gory « #9 ee. SY LV ah PPPS ots S. S-n) Ss, G oli che ices SoC NER ORE one Pe EI? CCRC OEE CRSEP actos “ciate ene ne 38 POULCISS wae wise « Sr GOI A Cry ne ea ten RPE Ree cea ete i 40 gL ESO ewetere reanceie bol tere staves cis ce a sietS rena ioleie of st clereie plete @ielsi0 se wale 6 42 VIS an Ou Simone waeectetons co cprokAlere 2: setae aiece) Opava te Pate apelicta a arose, «| sieterans 4% ELAUIEL iecuee se Metered ete ahora k lapste clo, eiicverieae bus, cre: dra lerene eee elese Sie «.ecaveteta 44 AUT CHL AIT LSet arc trait e nee teNe te ciaweisTe shel 6 See igh s Vee e Ge ele) Wisse, «+ scaeuarers 44 ERT Tyee ten eater eb ora tice oie Par Sail e ole ccc te canbe cucewoge rac ana en ier ayia e 6'eieps abereket's 45 PAIR ee ATELO Rg reer eye hes o roneve( al Siccttosi ers) SHeists lalewah emule [aie lo\tetebe ces si ou ache 46 SIR Cree AU nes esac chchenate tecehaie eco tame iticrodey cl or dns ctetolae oad ist aS laberayiows. as we edenets 46 PTE OUT Sa Meiers Me aiee terse cn ckete tens ote aepeverete ga ateilete Tatays Bhameve is atece “obetets 48 PUTIN Tame cae earliotere His che ck ene Gol oi oe 0 ce tc. o> stcvencwaralle ariel s Gets. Kist sie lds eye temnewe 5U PUVA VEN DD Mote ae eet wise rele acme aN acaive> ore. akichlaciee facls VaNGaeiar abaketerwie: eee sss te eteme omens 50 ATMS Dee DAU Siete eens seek ooo etons cine 's labored rcuaoMmuene ayoyt> ss isthe oNeiehree 54 Mir CEN OR TE Xue erage tees ia teva is toe tebe eh ot o.oo thw eG ath nee eae heiowe..« lieeeete Reeve 55 mea CAV eaek CECE Mapes rs cea cewek or cue? oc cremate! ciation chs ste. euebokelis to. ore ws Shere) oy eheteys 58 SaINneGuLesTaAnH Gb) OMGINELLES cer ara) s acer spledese. © se apetevs Sle lens sn -cbels + a Jersuene 58 DINCARCHT AIO UN CIPORLCMGGICS Aa. <. sie ime: ateterays: olecewe & sueeeue ce! xe Soul seeds 59 PART II.—BANTAMS. RresAd Vance Ofsb Ne INGUSERY: fi ioc < levee end ote ts one ehebee, whe chs clebauameMene pee 63 IBAUUAITE aE: BONLAINOE ANCIOES s suc. cns Sue Glaus tool onete hele “olete .s ateteneuelempets §4 SLATE Sa ME UNG AT CY. tere. ecto Ricca ah ower sive es oP citi eabberns whe. as) oyemepetiheter dead 67 FIOUsI NE ane MALIN Banta sec co tte scne sce oeate ase wuev'e, ee. wvetancitene ssi aie 69 PDL LE Es AE Te OMS Ottete, crores a tetskcache micierena’ 6 snle e7k we legeNecas & Bw Genco eee amet 70 RPGS Ha 1 Gy REVUE ING reechaychos = siete) pele te ava Mo's sb d's" ote, font a are) wiehagetanats 3 UVES LV MES TUINUA TIS bomsacmcnetedctens cokers icda te web era cae: 0, eocgeve. om Vaxevesotenebetene ene 74 BlAGk and wWinilereOSCROCOIMD AS sscews (alerecerecopave, ade, «uche vile) si creer ere ci ural oko oihe vas) Sebrights—Golden and Silver....... Bos Ae a EE TN ue eee eee 79 SOULIS MH SPANG) NOM ROIS ceerh ceactn a evens, ons stale. Wey tbeheusitecaney stoi treveas si CUCKOOLIDISCOUCDUGTAY:. SADCAINIS <5 ss, scene) san, c.0 se 0 8 chore te she erenearatekhene 84 PoOpwmaripycOr- COCHIN: BAMLaHIS stths stele s.a (0 seo © “s: Chonelisislithelislis o teca cg slau atts 86 Brahma——Bbooted -and. Polish, Bantams:*).). .22. <<... 1s etenere se 87, $8 WAPANGHIS MEDILCAMIS erce ntueeteiaten ce ocke aoe rele. oar eleouiege e sioberel ene lelers. saoce 83 Game -Banrams—Eoints Of Values oo oss eo... oc. © atonal elev eves steve este 89 Pee WATICEY sali Om Al CAMS uc siereie: ties ore too, stat Uhead Meehacete*upehene) sielane 91 WISH ial 835: its 11 00 aoa ly Ae ee me Tyr oo ee py Pe An Ao SRN ag ee a 91 (Pups anbAmeror tikecdt ANCICT <= scodess wae vp Pog: as sise%es Canehartneretn ti leweeetaw le 93 IDLTEreHU VaALlelics- Of GAMe: BAe siee.28 css dualcls eter ccctane: gates a0 eters 94 CURT TES iso ae RS, i ee RS by ae Marte BOPO Nai Ot 96 FRANK W. DELANCEY INTRODUCTORY. In presenting this book, entitled “A to Z of Pigeons and Bantams,” I feel positive its contents will be a great assistance to the old and experienced and a valuable guide to the novice and beginner. It contains information and illustrations that will enable the reader to intelligently start in the business and to successfully conduct it, along lines that are safe and consistent with good business methods. For the past several years increased interest has been taken in Bantams and Pigeons; for every dollar that was invested five years ago $10 are invested to-day. And for every Bantam and Pigeon that was exhibited five years ago there are ten to-day. The pleasing part is, the business has been advancing from year to year, and will continue to do so. The writer has always taken an interest and never lost an opportunity in promoting this interest. Hence the presentation of this boiled-down and up-to-date booklet, describing and illustrating the different vari- eties and how to successfully handle them, and it is the sincere wish of the author that this book may increase the interest in Pigeons and Bantams. PAK TL PIGEONS. The Advance of the Industry From the Fancy as Well as Squab-Producing Birds. Several years ago the country had what was called a Pigeon craze, and many thousands of people who knew nothing about the business invested heavily and lost heavily. The result was hundreds of thousands of birds were put on the market and sold for whatever was offered. The market was flooded and the business was looked upon as a farce. But thanks be to the men who stood by the guns and had confidence that when the sur- plus stock was exhausted the business would be on a staunch basis. This proved to be the result, and to-day we have many successful pigeon plants, and the product in the way of squabs commands as steady and high a price as when the craze was on. From a fancy point of view the growth of the business has been different. Its growth was steady; new men went into the busi- ness for sport and pleasure as well as for profit. Specialty clubs doubled their membership; the exhibits at the shows increased, and interest seemed to run as high as in poultry. Prices for good show specimens commanded as high a figure as poultry. The business advanced slowly but surely, and to-day Pigeons are one of the leading features of our fall and winter exhibitions. History and Origin of the Different Varieties. Sir Isaac Newton said, ““To myself I seem to have been as a child playing on the seashore, while the immense ocean of truth lay unexplored before me, and I have only gathered a few grains of sand.” How true this is when we compare it to the origin of the different varieties of Pigeons, and all that can be learned con- cerning the first pair is the scattered fragments from the works 8 of ancient writers. Noah first sent out of the ark a raven, but it did not return. He then sent forth a dove, and it returned. In seven days the dove was sent again, and it returned with an olive leaf. After another seven days he sent forth the dove again, and it did not return. This is the first record we have of Pigeons being used as messengers. We can learn the following from Scripture, Gen. xv, 9: And he said unto him take an heifer of three years old and a she goat of three years old and a turtle dove and a young pigeon. St. Luke 11, 24: And to offer a sacri- fice; a pair of turtle doves and two young pigeons. Lev. 1, 14: And if the burnt sacrifice for his offer to the Lord be of fowls he shall bring his offering of turtle doves or young pigeons. Hence we can take from this that where fowls are men- tioned for food it also includes doves and pigeons, hence for ages squabs have always been considered a staple article of food, and also an article that was sold as a food ages ago. St. John ii, 4: And found in the Temple those that sold oxen and sheep and doves. This portion of Scripture leads us to believe that pigeons were kept by the natives and taken to the markets to sell. Of the countless varieties of pigeons we have to-day nearly 150 varieties, all originated, according to Darwin, from the Blue Rock Dove, a descendant of the original dove that Noah left fly from the ark and returned with the olive branch. The leading breeds are the Jacobin, Fan-Tail, Duchess, Tumblers, Turbits, Owls, Barbs, Trumpeters, Nuns, Archangels, Swallows, Car- riers, Satinettes, Dragoons, Show, Homer, Shields. The First Steps in Squab Culture. Webster tells us that a squab is a young pigeon or dove. Of course there are different kinds of squabs, so far as quality is concerned, and quality governs the price the same as any other business. It is the “quality” kind that we wish to talk about here. No doubt many pigeon breeders have never seen a good marketable squab, and it is for this class of readers that this article is prepared. I would not advise an inexperienced person to invest all in the pigeon business. To do so would be throwing good money away, for this business, like any other, must be learned, and it is the little details and thorough knowledge that spell success. In the first place, secure all the knowledge you can concerning a ae \. 9 the business, and instead of starting with fifty pairs of birds start with ten and learn to handle them successfully. Increase your flock according to the increase of your knowledge. I would not go to the expense of erecting a costly building if I had an old building or part of one that could be utilized to make the start. In arranging the building be sure it is so that the morn- ing and noonday sunshine is on the loft. Sunshine and fresh air go a long way toward success. Have the building thoroughly whitewashed, and it is well to mix a little carbolic acid in the lime. This is an excellent An Up-to-date Building. preventative against mites and helps to ward off disease. You can arrange small boxes not less than 12x12 throughout the building and provide two boxes for each pair of birds. Guard against rats and make every effort to make the loft rat-proof. Construct your outside fly according to circumstances. It need not be over 8 feet high and other dimensions according to location and the number of birds. For the beginner the large squab breeding homer is what you want. Do not buy bargain lots, as they are generally old, worn-out birds, and you can make up your mind that something is wrong or they would not be To sold at a sacrifice. Place your order with a reliable party and good goods can be secured for little money. Insist on mated birds about two years old and not over three, and good stock can be secured at $1.50 and $2.00 per pair. Only good, sound, well seasoned grain should be fed to the old birds. Furnish the old birds the proper rations, along with grit, charcoal, lime, sand and salt, and they will produce the quality kind of squabs. One of the most important things is the banding and keep- ing an accurate record of your flock, and this can be easily done by getting a small blank book and noting the numbers of the birds. For example: IZ Ra Chae. 140:-8,, Ch SEL. The 121 R. Ch. C. means the bird with band No. 121 is a red checkered cock bird, and is mated to bird with band No. 140, blue checkered hen. You can then leave blank spaces after this entry to keep record of this pair of birds for one year, or as long as you like. You will find this record a good one to begin with and where the number of birds is not too great to demand a shorter system. Number your nest boxes from one up to the amount of nests you have in the loft. Keep a supply of tobacco stems in the loft for the birds to build their nests in. This makes an excellent nesting material, and no lice or mites will bother the squabs when it is used. Pure, fresh, clear water is half the battle, and have their drinking can so arranged that the birds cannot bathe in it. Education—Value of Details and the Points That Count in the Squab Business. The squab industry of this country represents many thous- ands of dollars, and many thousands of dollars have been lost from lack of education—not knowing the details and careless- ness in attending promptly to the points that count. Fortu- nately, the squab industry as a business is now conducted on a safe and sane basis, and those people who were led by misguid- ing literature to believe that there is a fortune in squabs and, invested their all, found out that the pigeon business must be learned the same as any other. These are the people that have It dropped out of the business by disposing of their stock by time and the shooting match, and with the passing away of this worth- less stock the market has been steady, and those who started in the proper way and were not afraid of work and hung on are now conducting a successful and profitable business. As I view the future and catch a glimpse of this great and growing industry, | am firm in the belief that it offers almost as good an opportunity to earn money and have a business of your own as anything you may take up, but you must work hard and Almost Ready for Market. work long, just the same as you would have to do in any other business. Raising squabs for market is not a new venture, for even Scripture quotes where they were sold in the market places. It is also one of the most fascinating and profitable occupations a man or woman can engage in, the work being to a very large extent light. For this reasom many have engaged in it whose health would not permit inside work. It is not by any means a get-rich-quick occupation, but if it is conducted on business principles will return a handsome per cent. on the money 12 invested. The prices on squabs fluctuate nearly as much as on poultry, and squabs are fast taking the place of young chickens. For the amount invested they pay better than poultry, with less space used and less expensive buildings. There are no incuba- tors and brooders to tend, no little ones for the cats to make a meal on, no feeding of chicks. The parent birds attend to every detail in incubation and brooding, and in four weeks you have the finished product, ready for market. The owner has the birds under his constant care and observation, and the more attention given to the birds as their habits are learned the Z The Proper Way of Holding a Pigeon. greater the profits. Perhaps the reader is not aware that the eggs of pigeons hatch sooner than any other domestic bird, requiring 18 days, while it requires 21 days for hen eggs, 26 days for guinea eggs, 29 days for ducks, turkeys, geese, and pea fowls 30 days. If you have bred any of the above, count the time it takes to hatch the eggs and the time, feed and attention it re- quires to rear them fo market size, and then consider that 48 days after the pigeon lays its eggs the squab is ready for the market. The demand for squabs will increase, as we now find them 3, on the menus of all the leading hotels and restaurants, and people who never knew what a squab was a few years ago are now paying anywhere from 75 cents to $1.50 for an order of squabs. One thing that will cause an increase in the demand for squabs is the scarcity of game and the stringent laws that forbid it to be sold, and the supply and demand will regulate the price of squabs in the future. One thing sure is that the business cannot be conducted unless you apply strict business principles and keep a strict account of each pair of working birds, as some birds produce more and better squabs than others. The ones that are not paying soon eat up the profit of the workers. Hence it is necessary to know the birds that are making you money and retain their progeny for the enlargement of your flock and to take the place of the slow workers that do not come up to your ideal. We all must agree that time is money, and time spent in hunting a hatchet, shovel or scoop is lost; hence the advantage of having a place for everything. One of the main points in producing the best possible re- sults is regularity in attending to your birds. You must re- member that pigeons are intelligent creatures, and will very soon learn to know when to expect you to attend to their wants. Have a regular time to attend to every detail. Do not make any unnecessary noise. Teach the birds to know you and you will soon have them to fly on your shoulder and have a happy and contented lot of birds. System means everything, and with- out it and not living up to it means failure. If the proper start is made with good birds they should give you a net annual profit of $1.50 to $1.75 per pair. The squab business has an advantage over any Other business, for in other lines it keeps a man’s brain in a constant whirl thinking and planning in order that he can compete with his competitors, thus requiring a modern busi- ness training. Squab raising does not require a course in a business college to be successful. Its main requirements are a careful study of the requirements of your birds, studying their every need and a time and a system to do the things that must be done. Another very important point is the finding of a market where you can get the best returns for your goods, and last, but not least of the points that count, is to make up your mind to work and to know not what the word failure means. Let the stumbling blocks that 14 you encounter to-day be stepping stones to use in broadening your business and combat the difficult problems that are bound to “arise: Location for Breeding Houses. A sandy soil is best upon which to build a pigeon house, as it absorbs moisture and dries off very quickly. The land should slope a little so as to drain the water during rain and keep the floors from getting damp. Only a slight elevation is necessary to keep the under part of the building pure and sani- tary. Dampness causes and aggravates a host of diseases, such Arrangement of Nests. as canker, diarrhoea, etc. Success with a pigeon house built without a good substantial floor is doubtful. Always have the buildings at least six inches from the ground, so as to allow a free current of air to circulate, in order to dry out the dampness and rain water quickly. A southern exposure must be preserved, for a building thus located allows the sun to shine upon it and into it from early morning till late in the afternoon. Sunlight kills the disease germs, and if a building is so built towards the south it will be many degrees warmer in winter than one built in any other exposure. To add to the comfort and safety of the birds it will be found excellent to reduce the temperature in Ln summer if a row of shade trees be planted in front of them. They will also be advantageous in keeping the drinking water cool, for the sun’s rays soon make water warm and unfit for the birds to drink in a very short time. Neatness of a building costs but little, so I would advise having them whitewashed at least every spring. Breeding Lofts. The building should be built in such a way tat’anexten- sion could be added if needed. I will give the reader an idea how to construct a building 32 feet in length, 10 feet in width, 7 feet high in the rear and 9 feet high in front. Sixteen-foot boards should be used, so as not to allow much waste. This building can be extended any desired length. The illustrations on opposite and following pages give a view of houses, each of which are almost 100 feet in length. For making the frame- work. 3x4 hemlock scantling should be used, and for the joists and rafters 2x4 will answer. Both rafters and joists should not be over 2 feet apart. The sides of the building and ends should be stripped with wide laths (upon the outside) to prevent cold and draughts to enter in winter. The roof should be of hemlock boards a foot wide, over which tack three-ply felt roofing. This sort of roofing will last many years under favorable conditions, and it should be tarred with slag cement (a preparation espe- cially prepared for it) once or twice a year. I find this roof far better than slate, which is entirely too heatening in summer. Slate retains the heat much longer than felt. Shingles, if they are preferred, can be used and answer far better than either of the above, but the cost is somewhat of a hindrance. An opening should be left in the front and back of each pen, near the roof, to allow ventilation; in fact, between each rafter is better, for this will allow the heat which accumulates in summer to be carried off. In winter these openings should all be closed up. Very little ventilation is needed in winter. In each pen a win- dow at least 2x3 should be put midway from the floor to the roof. A double sash will be found better, although one is suff- cient. These windows should be made so as to be easily slid back when required on the inside. Some every large squab raisers have an attachment arranged to their windows, so that by simply turning a crank all are opened or closed at the same 16 time, saving considerable trouble in going through the building and closing each one separately. This method is excellent to shut windows quickly when a shower arrives suddenly in sum- mer. On the inside of the building before any nest boxes, etc., are built, tack tar paper one-ply on all sides. This makes the building considerably warmer in winter and prevents vermin in the summer. Some tack the paper on the outside, but this must be replaced with new every year, where if it were placed upon the inside it will last for years. The roof must have the thickest of felt (three-ply). To preserve this well so it will last for many years, coat with tar or slag cement at least once each year. While applying the tar or cement, before it has become dry upon the roof, throw pewter sand or small pebbles upon it. This renders it tough and hard, and even hail cannot do much damage to it. Without the sand or pebbles the cement should be applied every spring and fall. This must be done when the sun is shining warm, for it will then run easier and be far easier to apply. Interior Construction of a Building. The interior should be divided into compartments 8 or 10 feet wide, and the partitions can be made of laths or wire net- ting. At the floor a 12-inch board should be used for. two rea- sons: it keeps the dirt in its own pen and prevents the birds from fighting. A slide-door should be made in each partition. By doing this it will not be necessary to have an alleyway through the building. However, an alleyway is very convenient when it comes to cleaning the coops and attending the birds. The first pen should be boarded up tight and kept for a store room, and can also be fitted up for killing and shipping room. Each compartment should have a window, and at the side of each window two holes 4 by 5 should be made to be used by the birds in winter when the windows are closed. The perches should be along the side of a building, and as many perches as there are cocks in the pen should be used. By having their perches the cock birds will not be compelled to roost on the nests. The nests should be made along the side and two nests provided for every working pair. The nests can be made of any cheap material, and should be not less than 18 inches in length, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. Nail a 3-inch strip 17 along the front of the nest to keep the eggs and youngsters from falling out. Nest pans are not necessary, and this is all that is required in the way of nests, excepting a 6-inch strip nailed upright between each section to prevent fighting from one nest to another. Evil results come from over-crowding, and twenty-five pairs is about right for the sized compartment de- scribed here. Nests should be cleaned after each pair is taken out and air-slacked lime sprinkled into them. This will keep it sweet and clean and prevent lice and mites as well as worms. The most important part of a pigeon loft is the floor, and here the best of tongued and grooved boards should be used to prevent dampness, and many claim it is profit- Fancy Pigeon House and Aviary able to make the floor rat-proof. An outside fly is necessary, and the birds must be on the ground. Failure to furnish the necessary fly means failure in the pigeon business. Any old barn or wagon shed can be used to good advantage in raising squabs or fancy stock if the outside fly is provided. How to Mate. Where the object in mating is for squabs for market alone it is not necessary to mate each pair separately, as fanciers do when they wish to keep a strain pure. When fancy birds are mated it would be folly for any one to mate ones of different 2 18 color, different varieties, etc., but for squab raising it makes no difference whether a Duchess is mated to an Antwerp, or a Homer to a common bird, the main object being a good sized squab and white color when dressed. It would be best policy, however, to mate Homers to Homers, etc. Pigeons, as a rule, will pick their own mates, so if thirty cocks and thirty hens be left together in a pen, if all are healthy and vigorous, each will have its mate before a week passes. The Nest Pan or Nappie. Birds mated this way are usually mated for life, or until one or the other dies. The main point in mating is to be sure the birds are well and hearty, of same age (one or two years) and equally divided, i. e., equal number cocks and hens. Some pigeon men take the trouble to mate each pair separately. This is labor unnecessary. They use a box about 4 feet in length with a tight partition in the center, and place a cock in one side, a hen in the other. They leave them in the box to talk it all over for a week 19 or so, after which they remove the partition, and they usually mate up. It will be seen where many pairs are to be mated ii would take considerable time to mate them in this way. How- ever, for fancy birds and where only a few are kept this is the best and only way of mating. If birds are purchased of good reliable parties, they are usually mated when shipped to the pur- chaser. This is one of the greatest objects in purchasing, for many lofts are full of birds, one-half of which are unmated. Unmated birds, of course, are unprofitable. One odd cock in a loft will do more damage by picking and killing squabs than diseases will. He is continually fighting the other cocks and destroying eggs and annoying hens while setting. If one is found without a mate remove him from the breeding pens, and do not return him until he has a mate. This will ustially end all trouble. Mating. How to Tell Males From Females. This is one of-the most difficult tasks, and even the old experienced breeders miss it sometimes. As a rule the cock bird is the largest and has a different shaped head. A cock bird when it cooes will turn completely around, but a hen bird sel- dom does. Ofttimes we see a bird chasing or driving a bird inside and out of the coop. The bird doing the chasing is the male and the bird pursued is a female. The best and safest method of telling a male from a female is by the size and shape of the vent bones. In a cock bird the bones are crooked and almost touch, in many cases do touch, wherein a hen bird the bones are straight and from a quarter to a half inch apart. This is due to their nature of laying. eggs. Of course, the hen bird 20 that never laid will not have her bones as far apart as the old breeder, hence care and caution must be used in mating young birds. How and When to Feed. Some prefer feeding their birds by throwing it upon the ground. ‘This would do all right if the weather be dry and warm, but if it be damp or wet, and the birds did not eat up all at one meal, they will pick up the damp grains (probably mouldy by that time) and eat them, which is sure to produce ill health. I prefer feeding in troughs, inside the buildings. Have troughs made 7 feet long, 6 inches wide with a strip 2 inches wide on the sides. Birds fed this way, if they do not eat all at once, still have sound, dry grain to pick at between meals. Pigeons, raising squabs need to be fed but twice each day, early morning’ and about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. Feed, if possible, as much as will be eaten up clean at each meal. If some of the morning meal still remains at the evening meal, give a little less. In a short time one can find out exactly how much each pen requires, but when there are a large number of squabs in a pen, of course it will require more feed. This is to be left to the judgment of the fancier. On an average the amount of feed for thirty pair of birds with their young is about two quarts at a meal; without young, one to one and one-half quarts. They will eat less corn than wheat or peas, so in feeding corn give somewhat less than of the other grains. After once adapting a system of feeding it becomes easy and natural, but no definite amount for a number of pairs could be given. Each must use his own judgment in feeding. The age of birds must also be considered. A lot of young squabs, just flying out of the nest require more food in proportion than ones fully matured. The amount of food also depends largely upon the climate, for in colder climates a larger amount will be con- sumed, and this should contain a great amount of heat. In warmer climates the foods containing the largest percentage of fats and carbohydrates should be fed sparingly. The following table will give the reader an idea of the prop- erties of the various grains usually fed to pigeons, and can judge how and when to feed: a ee ee 2I Value of the Different Grains. In each pound Protein Fat Starch Mineral matter of oz drs; .Oz.{drs. . ‘oz--drs. oz. drs. RGAthL Os. 4.5 Saat ie B15 8 9 4 O45 BuckewHeAts wena... bk. .15 re 9 4 0 4 DESI al SaaS a ee cman | 15 7 8 4 5 fmdiat. Cord. ..<....s 1 1 4 LO 7 Ore2 Ganadal Peas. .. 2... 4 5 él 5 Pipine ns ge4 oe tags ese 5 6 8 O Gu V7, MGuCNGS on fs} 2.<55 Sess 2 Bez 6 4 0 4 5/317 GR ek rare aa a Zz 6 4 0 6 Sunflower Seed ..... 2 2 6 4 0.6 The two latter are exceedingly fattening and heatening and must be fed sparingly, especially in summer. Safe to feed oftener in winter. It is far better to feed a variety of grains than one particular grain any length of time. Some are loosening to the bowels, others again constipating. Corn is somewhat constipating, while wheat (especially new wheat, which must never be fed) is loosening, especially to the squab; it digests too easily or, in other words, becomes softened too quickly and the squabs, many of which die of “scours,” a term used by pigeon men, identical with diarrhcea. Buckwheat is also heatening and binding, and is safe to use in winter only. To keep a bird’s appetite good it is best to feed a variety of grains than one particular grain; in fact, to keep them guessing what will comprise their next meal In feeding always give those grains containing the most heat at the evening meal, for then they have no exercise and they will require more heat, especially during winter nights. What to Feed. Wheat. Wheat is (taking it the whole year round) the main article of food for pigeons. It contains very nourishing qualities, rich in starch, fats and proteins, but should be fed in connection with some of the other grains occasionally, for if fed too long it will scour the birds, as it has slightly laxative qualities, prob- ably in the outer shell or bran. Red wheat should always be 22 fed in preference to the white variety, the latter has more tend- ency to scour than the former. A good point to remember is — don’t feed new wheat, or new grains of any kind. It seems strange that when birds have their liberty about a farm they will enter a grain field and eat new grain with relish and never experience any harm from it, but if it be fed to them when housed up they become very sickly and numbers of them will die. The One Type of the Ideal Squabbers. reason of this may be that they obtain more exercise than when housed up. Nevertheless this is the case, and wheat should be at least six months to a year old before it is fit for pigeons. When new wheat is first fed it seems to have little effect upon the old birds, but the squabs become subject to “scours” and die. If it is fed any length of time it begins to show on the a3 old birds, and they are affected with diarrhoea of a severe form. Good wheat, if well seasoned, contains all the properties neces- sary for the health of the birds and is the main staff of life. Don’t think of buying cheap wheat. The best you can buy is by far the cheapest. The crop of a bird is a very delicate organ, and it does not require much to start up an inflamma- tion with serious results. Through neglect and ignorance hosts of birds die off, especially in summer, where if more precaution and better judgment had been used by the owner the rate of mortality in his birds would have been greatly lessened. It must not be understood that all fanciers do not lose birds by death at times; in fact, all do. People die and always will, even with the best of care, but I have reference to unusual numbers dying. The food given the parent birds invariably shows itself in the size and health of the squabs. Can a squab, a very delicate piece of organism all through, be raised in its full state of health upon poor, innutritious or mouldy food? Certainly not. This must be taken into consideration, and if any one has been feed- ing his birds poor quality, change it at once to good food, and notice how much difference there will be in the results. Scorched Wheat. Scorched wheat is largely used as a pigeon food by pigeon raisers, for it is cheap and does just as well as good wheat in their estimation; after it is fed a while they notice their mistake. This quality of wheat is too hard and indigestible for pigeons to eat. Good wheat will soften in their crops in a few hours, but scorched wheat will not soften for a day or so. I have seen many bad cases of crop bound (indigestion) from the use of this wheat. What is scorched wheat? I will explain. I received this advice from a friend, an experienced miller, and he should know. Scorched wheat is supposed, and said, to come from elevator fires, fires that occur in the large Western elevators. If this were true all the elevators would have been destroyed years ago, for there is an immense lot of this stuff on the markets at all times, and at times when no fires occur. This wheat is that which has become mouldy while at the elevators. It is damaged of course and could not be used for making flour, so it is doctored up for 24 poultry food. It is run through a fire process and scorched enough so as to burn off the sprouts, if any are on, and to remove the mouldy smell. It is then dried in the sun, put in bags and finds its way to the poultry yards as feed. If one takes a few grains of this and eats it, he can readily detect the mouldy taste, even though it may have a smoky smell. I would advise all poultrymen to discontinue using it if they are doing so. The dealers purchase this wheat at $5 to $6 per ton less than good At Home. wheat could be bought. There are great quantities used every year, but the sooner it is discontinued the better for the squab raiser. It may do for chickens; I do not know, but for squabs nothing but second or third class can be raised from it. The main object in this business is to raise first-class squabs, the ones which demand the highest market prices. Mouldy feed or 25 grains which have started germination, or damaged in any other way, should be cast aside and never used as food. Diseases such as crop bound, foul crop, etc., will surely follow any negligence on the part of the fancier, especially in the way of improper food and feeding. Wheat Screenings. The author as well as many other squab raisers uses screen- ings to as good an advantage as wheat; in fact, I believe if the screenings be good it does better and fattens the squabs nicer and easier than pure wheat. I have reference to what is called good screenings. The majority on the market contains very little wheat, mostly dirt; of course this is useless. I procure screenings from the mills direct and get it very good, at times the grains of wheat are almost perfect. There is an advantage in feeding screenings for more than one reason. First, the grains are all very dry and harder than the good wheat, are not digested so easily, but at the same time contain all the nourishing prop- erties. The wheat in screenings as a rule is better seasoned than pure wheat; birds both young and old thrive well upon it, and does not scour them like pure wheat. Another advantage is the other seeds which they can get from the screenings, as grass seed, tares and various other seeds which help to sharpen up their appetites. One purchasing screenings, however, must keep his eyes wide open, for screenings have one disadvantage, and a very bad one. This is rye, which it sometimes contains. One must exam- ine it well before feeding, for if there be a certain percentage of rye in it, it will cause detrimental results. Rye should never be fed, even in small quantities, for it produces a violent intestinal inflammation or irritation and causes death. Pigs, chickens, or ‘any other animal will not live if fed rye. So be careful in buying screenings to look out closely for rye. Wheat is as a rule $1.00 to $1.25 per bushel. In pigeon wheat there is always some waste matter. In screenings there is the same, and a little more, but when good screenings can be bought for $1 per 100 pounds, it will be a great saving, and in this business expenses must be kept down to the lowest notch. In 100 pounds of screenings there will be two bushels or more. Wheat in this way costs 50 cents or less a bushel. 26 Oats. Oats is one of the most nourtshinge and valuable cereals we have. They are rich in phosphates and nerve-building food, make material for muscle, and are well proportioned in the other elements, but they are harsh and indigestible, due to their hulls. The larger and barer the oats the less hull. The crop of a pigeon is injured if the pointy oats 1s fed, and when given them in this way, they will not eat it, if anything else is before them. The oats used for pigeons is hulled oats. In this the rough pointy shell is removed, leaving nothing but the oat Ready for Market. itself. It resembles rolled oats. It is the most excellent food obtainable, but it costs considerably more than plain oats. Millet. One of the most valuable articles of food as a relish or change for the birds is millet. The German or Hungarian variety is considered best. I have found from experience that this grain is exceedingly stimulating and makes birds breed up 27 to the highest notch, but it should be fed sparingly, as it 1s very strong. A pint or quart to a bucketful of wheat or screenings is amply sufficient. Never feed it alone, but always mixed with any of the other grains excepting corn, which should always be fed serarately. I do not fancy feeding a mixture of corn, wheat, etc., for it changes the chemical action of the other grains, and none are of the nourishing value as though fed separately. Mullet if given in proper proportions, I find, has a great influence upo. the skin of the squabs. They seldom turn dark when dressed for market if fed a little millet. The Scanderoon Canada Peas. All who own truck know how crazy pigeons are for peas. They will ruin a bed of peas in less than no time. They are exceedingly fond of them, and are healthy and strengthening for them. Canada peas are the smallest of all the other varieties, but if they cannot be procured, the split peas or common field peas do for the same purpose. Ii you never fed them before, it will take them a day or so finding out that they are edible, but when they once eat them they watch and wait for them eacerly. I always feed them with screenings, but they pick out eas first, before eating up the screenings. They are somewhat steep in price, but when one considers their nourishing qualities they are worth the price. A quart to a bucketful is sufficient. 28 Buckwheat. Buckwheat is an excellent article for pigeon food, but it is to be used only in Winter months. It is a rich, heatening grain and not adapted for hot weather. It has a tendency to produce white meat in squabs when dressed. An occasional handful in Summer will do no harm, but to feed it regular, as some do, it will do great harm. Never mix it with corn; always with wheat. I had a friend who fed wheat, corn and buckwheat, mixed for Summer food; and in a few weeks after feeding this mixture he was out of the business. His birds died like flies. I attributed the cause to the mixture. To prove it to him I fed one pen of my own the same mixture and lost several fine birds after the first feed only. I did not feed any more of it; I was convinced. It would be unsafe to feed it in connection with corn, even in Winter. Corn and buckwheat do not agree with birds, if it be mixed. Corn. Corn is used more extensively in the pigeon business than any other grain, simply because it is cheap. In fact, I know of some birds that get nothing but corn from one year to another, but this is very foolish. Corn is exceedingly rich in starch and contains a considerable amount of fats. Hence it is very heating. It should never be fed mixed, but always alone. I prefer cracked corn to whole corn; for in the feeding process, which the parents go through, the young can swallow it with comfort. If whole corn, of the large grain variety be fed, there will always be some squabs unable to swallow it and choke to death. Owing to corn’s heating qualities, it should be fed sparingly during warm weather. I feed it (one meal) every other night during summer. This is amply sufficient, as they do not care so much for it in Summer. In Winter they require more corn; ihen I feed it every night. Never feed it during the morning, for at night they require more heat, and this supplies them with it. Kaffir Corn. This is a new variety of corn, has a small kernel, equally as small as pop-corn, and has the same properties as Indian corn. It is relished by the pigeons and is a wholesome food. However, its high price prevents its use extensively for squab raising. | 20 Stale Bread. At almost all-bakeries stale bread can be purchased for a mere trifle. This can be given the birds as an extra, at almost any time during the day. Soak it in water for an hour or so, or until it is soft, then give it to the birds in their cages. This they will enjoy beyond measure. Waste Pop Corn. This is purchased from candy firms and is the waste corn which did not pop. It is useful as pigeon food, is small and easily swallowed, and is healthy. It contains a certain portion of car- bon and charcoal, and is excellent for poultry as a side dish. Blondinettes. Hemp and Sunflower Seeds. These two seeds are very rich in fats, and are highly con- centrated, and consequently are to be used but little. They are _ generally used as an appetizer or tonic to run-down birds. They are excellent to keep up the bird during the moulting season. An occasional cupful of these seeds are good, but I would not advise their free use. As to the pigeons they are exceedingly fond of hemp seed, and if given enough will eat till it kills them. In cold weather more can be fed than in warm weather. 30 Lupins and Vetches. These two seeds have about the same properties as peas and can be used as such. They are a high priced article of food, and are used mainly as a luxury in squab raising. In raising fancy stock, where large prices are obtained, the steep priced grains are overlooked. However, in squab raising these grains cannot be fed much, as expense must be kept as low as possible. Green Food. Pigeons do not require green food and meat like chickens, but when salad can be procured they will eat it with relish and will do them no harm. Ch'ckweed is also good for them in sea- A Handsome Group. sons. An excellent. gréen: food for the birds, is peas damerna number of boxes into which sow peas, and when they are grown to an inch or two in height place the box and all in their cages and let them eat of the stalks. hey can then be taken out again until they grow several inches and placed before the birds again SYSTEM OF FEEDING FOR SUMMER. Sunday. Morning, wheat screenings mixed with peas and millet. Afternoon, screenings alone. 31 ‘SIMQ UBILIpY pur YsIPoUuy 2 iw) ‘ oF Jacobins. Boake . 33 Monday. Morning, screenings with few vetches or lupins. Afternoon, cracked corn alone (full meal). Tuesday. Morning, screenings or wheat with peas. Afternoon, screenings with a little millet. Wednesday. Morning, screenings alone. Soaked bread at noon. Afternoon, cracked corn (full meal). Thursday. Morning, screenings or wheat with hulled oats. Afternoon, screenings with peas. Friday. Morning, screenings with millet or peas. Afternoon, cracked corn, or kaffir corn. Saturday. Morning, wheat or screenings alone. Afternoon, screenings with little hemp seed and millet. The above is my system of feeding pigeons, one which | adopted a few years ago with excellent results. The cost of the dearer grains, such as hemp, millet, peas, etc., will not be noticed if given in small quantities. What pigeons need and want in order to keep them in health is a change, also a variety. The Flying or Racing Homer. This variety has made rapid strides toward perfection, and when we see a well bred, well trained flying homer it reminds us of a well trained athlete ready and willing to go into the con- test. The requirements are a bird with a nice, even-shaped head of medium length set on a neck of medium thickness without any appearance of gullet, widening at the shoulders. The chest should be large and full, back short and flat and broad across the shoulders, tapering off to the rump and tail; short and 3 v 4 Oo straight breast bone; wings to have powerful butts, flight to be broad, strong and closely overlapped; good secondary feather and covering; tail close fitting, having the appearance of one feather ; carriage bold and alert size, medium and every point in proportion. Training the Flying or Racing Homer. No variety of pigeons is so much attached to their home as the homer, and such a thing as a homer leaving his home loft and taking up his abode in another, as sometimes others do, never occurs. The home instinct is bred in them; indeed, so much of this instinct is impressed in their nature that well-bred ——. — The Flying Homer. ones rarely alight on any place but their own loft. Surrounding roofs cf buildings are seldom used by them as a loafing place. The instinct for home in them makes them easily trained for long distance flights. If pains are taken in training and condt- ticning them, long and rapid flights are made easy by them, and the number of birds lost in long distance flights is very small ui they have been carefully prepared. In treining old or young birds for homing races, the birds should be ailowed to take daily exercise around the home loft. They should not be allowed unlimited liberty at ail times, but ww On the bob wires with which each loft should be equipped should be opened about three times a day and the birds allowed to exercise. In a short time they will become accustomed to being on the wing and make quite long flights from the loft and become thoroughly acquainted with the surrounding country. Then they should be taken a few miles from the loft in a roomy basket or crate and liberated. They will at once circle and start for home. The next day they should be taken about five miles from home in the same direction as the previous day and liberated. The day following they should be taken ten miles from home in the same direction and allowed to fly home. Usually these prepar- atory flights are made from the east. [First of all the birds are to be trained in a southern direction. After flying ten miles from the East, the birds are then taken over the same course from the West, and after they are thoroughly acquainted with the surrounding country from ten to twenty miles from the loft in an easterly and westerly direction, they can then be started for their southern route, five miles from home for the first flight. The day following they are taken ten miles from home; the following day twenty, after which they are given a rest for a day or two, with exercise around the home loft about a half hour each day. They then can be taken to the 50-mile station and liberated After this they can be sent to the hundred-mile station and then allowed one week’s rest at home, with daily exercise of at least one hour. At the end of the week they can be shipped to the two hundred-mile station and then allowed another week’s rest at 36 home with daily exercise of two hours. This system is continued by jumps of one hundred miles each week until the birds reach the five or six hundred-mile station. After that, if extremely long distance flights are desired, they can be jumped to the station the long flight is desired from. By carefully following this system of training, Homers frequently fly five hundred and even six hundred miles in one day, and cases are on record where birds have gone over eleven hundred miles. About the longest distance young birds should be trained is two hundred miles, although they have been known to fly five hundred miles as youngsters, but we do not advise these long flights for them as they are rarely of any account as old birds. After they are thoroughly matured old birds, one year old they are ready for extreme distances. Show Homer. The Show Homer. The interest taken in the Show Homer seems to increase as the years pass, thus giving its supporters abundant reason for claiming it the most popular of all the different breeds of pigeons. Type is the strong point in the Show Homer. It matters not how perfect the head, eye, or color, the value is very much impaired if the specimen lacks type. Show Homers are bred in many different colors—Chequers, Blue, Black, Red, Dun, Silver and Yellow and in whole colors we have Blue, Silver, Mealy, Yellow, Grizzle and White 37 The Jacobins. The Jacobin, like the Fantail, depends on its attractiveness and wonderful formation of feather for its popularity and de- mand. The Fantail is possibly better known to the novice than the Jacobin on account of its wonderful formation of tail, which even the novice can distinguish and place the name to the bird. However, the Fantail can claim no greater army of enthusiasts than the Jacobin and the rivalry among the Jacobin breeders of the present is almost equal to that of any other variety, and right- ly so, for there are many reasons why it should be. The Jacobin is a hearty and prolific pigeon and requires but little assistance to rear its own young. In other words, they are considered to be fairly good workers. This latter point should be empha- sized, for it is far too commonly assumed that a pair of feeders are necessary for each pair of Jacobins. Many of the Jacobin fanciers claim that they will rear successfully every bird they have but that a few pairs of feeders will rear many a bird which gets a bad start from its parents or where the parents go to nest too soon. The Jacobin is a peculiar variety and can never be improved, nor its characteristics increased by crossing with any other vari- ety of pigeon. No small advantage is this when one looks around and sees evil results of such breaks in some of the favorite varieties of the day. The day has long passed when selection and perseverance on the part of the breeder will overcome every difficulty, however obstinate it may be and the present day Jaco- bin is really a work of art, made so by years of careful mating and breeding to bring about the desired result and the truly won- der feather formation that we see on nearly every specimen that adorns our exhibitions. No variety has a more high-bred ap- pearance than the Jacobin when he is in full dress array. For the information of the novice, let us briefly describe the chief point of this beautiful variety. By common consent the most important point in a good Jacobin is the hood. This should be smooth and thick in substance of feather, fitting almost closely to the head, reaching forward as far as possible to the front of the head and merging without a break into the mane behind and the chain at either cheek. The chain should spring in a sweeping” curve on either side from its junction with the hood, completely 38 covering the big eyes and evenly meeting on both sides, reaching as far down the breast as possible. he mane should be well sprung into an arch shape from its junction with the back of the ‘hood. The feathers should be thick and smooth and meeting from either side in a graceful curved line without a break. The center from which the feathers radiate at the side of the neck to form the main chain is known as the rose. The head above the under mandible, the rump. The tail and ten flight feathers on either side should be white; the remainder of the body in colored varieties should be lustrous in color whether red, yellow or black. WLM o-= 2 Bae on, The Santaale White or pearly eyes, long flights and tail, slim and tapering body and erect carriage make up the remaining properties of the fascinating Jacobins, one of the most beautiful varieties that 1s in existence. The Fantails. Of all the different varieties of pigeons possibly none attract the attention of the visitors at our leading shows more than the Fantails. It is conceded by all that this is one of the most inter- esting and fascinating of all fancy varieties of pigeons. As we 59 walk down the aisles of our different shows, it is noticed that there are usually more people stop and admire the Fans than any other variety. Their aristocratic carriage, their graceful steps and that peculiar and striking motion of head and neck are their source of attraction and admiration and they constantly draw forth from the uninitiated the most amusing comments and re- marks. The Fantail by nature is not wild and this with their peculiar characteristics makes them a general favorite. They are very easily tamed and quickly become attached to their owners. Another thing which helps to increase the popularity from an exhibitor’s point of view is that one need not be a pro- fessional before being able to tell the good ones from the inferior birds and to pick out his show specimens. They not only please those who keep them solely for the pleasure of seeing them flying about their loft but they appeal strongly to all who take a delight in exhibiting and here the question may be asked, why? Be- cause it is a variety that is not difficult to breed; that is to say, one need not serve an apprenticeship of several years by keeping the birds constantly before him in order to distinguish the ex- hibition birds. The Fans are as a rule good mothers and fathers and so require no foster parents to rear their young, as is the case of some of the short billed varieties, thus the great expense of having extra lofts and retaining other birds to rear the young is abolished. Contrary to much that has been said the Fantail requires no faking for exhibition purposes. There are possibly many who will question this statement and ask, “what about their tails?” True enough, the tail of a Fan is often faked, but you need not resort to this source to get the good exhibition tails. The birds can and are bred with tails that require no manipulation to en- able them to win in fast company, and it is said that the birds whose tails are not faked usually win over those that have been tampered with. The novice may, therefore, venture to take up this delightful breed with hopeful expectation of success, provided he uses judgment in securing the parent stock and is careful with his matings. The training to get the required carriage of the Fantail is an art that you will very soon become accustomed to and delighted with as well. 40 Fans are bred in many different colors, the most popular, however, being the Whites, Blacks, Blues, Reds, Yellow, as well as the Saddle Backs. The Whites, as usual, have maintained the lead and are possibly the largest class of any of the Fans at the larger shows, and they have been bred to such a high state that it is really difficult to find fault with many of the winning specimens. The Blacks are not as popular as the Whites, but nevertheless the quality is not far behind. Blues, like the Blacks, are not bred very extensively, and the quality, as usual, is not that of the Blacks or Whites. Saddles are quite plentiful with usually fair classes at the shows, with uniform quality but noth- ing in comparison with the White variety. The Reds and the Yellows have made no advancement in popularity for the past several years, and about the same size classes are seen at the shows and about the same interest taken as a number of years ago, and it is claimed by some of the leading breeders that the Reds and Yellows are very difficult to breed. The wide-spread popularity of the Fantails makes them in demand, and the fan- ciers of any of the different varieties have little trouble in dis- posing of their surplus stock. The Pouter. The Pouter is one of the oldest varieties of fancy pigeons and has been a great favorite as far back as 1735. In that year J. Moore published his treatise on tame pigeons, which I think was the first book on the subject. He there states that the Pouter was first bred in England and is, therefore, called the English Pouter. It was originally a mixed breed between a horseman and a cropper, and it appears that this cross had been made very many years prior to Mr. Moore’s remarks, judging from the description he gives. Of course, like all others of the older varieties, the Pouter has undergone many changes in fashion, Thirty years ago the great rage was size and length, somewhat irrespective of thickness of body, style and carriage. The shape of the limbs was not often what one would describe as elegant. I believe on some few occasions there are records where they measured seven and one-half inches and over, but seldom if ever looked as long and more rarely were of the cor- rect shape, position and closeness. Since that time the Pouter has gradually been improved in general structure. The body 41 has been greatly reduced in stoutness and the limbs no longer give the appearance of greater length on account of the careful breeding to get them placed further back in the body, closer inserted and finer in bone. The feather has also not been so much wanted in length, especially in tail. The shoulder has been considerably reduced, which ali helps to give the bird a more slender appearance and, considering the foregoing points, the size of the crop of the present-day Pouter is as large and as shapely as that of the old-time clumsy birds. Foret aN The Down-to-Date Pouter. There are many different varieties of Pouters. The Blue- Reds have always been the strongest, both in number and quality. The Blacks, although they have improved in numbers, have made no material improvement, especially in color, ex- cepting in a few cases, and thcse instances may be counted on the fingers. In Reds it has been quite the reverse, a great im- provement having been made on them during the last several years, and there are plenty of good, first-class specimens to be 42 seen to-day. Yellows are quite popular and have improved . much. These were the last to gain slenderness of growth, so much admired. The Whites, unfortunately, have gone back very much dur- ing the past two or three years. I do not mean by this that there are no good ones, but they are few, indeed, in comparison with the others. In many sections of our Eastern States the Pouter is the most popular of the different varieties of fancy \ “